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1 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA j
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EDMUND SYLVESTER
The Founder of Olj'mpia
EARLY HISTORY
OF
Thurston County, Washington
TOGETHER WITH
BIOGRAPHIES AND REMINISCENCES
OF THOSE IDENTIFIED WITH
PIONEER DAYS
COMPILED AND EDITED
BY
MRS. GEORGE E. BLANKENSHIP
OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON
1914
...Qavnxtavh
"1
Upon presenting this modest volume to the public the
>^- author desires to present a few facts regarding the aims and
^ purposes of its publication,
j^ As I am not myself a pioneer or, in the proper conception
of the term, an early settler, it may be necessary to explain
why I should intrude in a field more properly the work of
others. As one who crossed the plains three times in an ox
wagon, and whose parents were inured to the hardships of
frontier life, I myself took a deep interest in this subject. Upon
jjo coming to Puget Sound I found the ranks of the pioneers
S decreasing rapidly. With the modesty characteristic of this
„ race of hardy empire builders, they had not appreciated the
1^ value of their work and its import to their posterity. They did
on not appreciate the fact that those who were to reap where
—' they had sown would be eager to learn of the vicissitudes
1^ and hardships endured bv their antecedents in this new em-
c=> pire for which they had laid the foundation — so vast that Atlas
must needs' square his shoulders to bear the burdens of an-
other world — and without leaving proper records of their
heroie and self-denying lives, they have one by one gone
to a well-deserved rest, leaving but few today to detail the re-
miniscences here related. The compiler, then, encouraged in
the work, by many who desire to see a task accomplished, which
they themselves had no inclination to undertake, offers this
volume, with a sincere hope that it may to some extent endure
as a record of the lives of many who made history in Thurston
County in the early days.
This publication makes no claim to literary merit, ])ut
aims to relate the simple annals of the pioneers' lives and
vicissitudes in the language of the actors of that time.
Tlie work has been at once interesting and edncating.
Thrown in coiitact with th(ise survivors of the late '40's and
O
601/10
early '50 's one is astonished at the physical vigor and men-
tal brilliancy encountered.
In one instance, in quest of facts regarding the early ex-
periences of one old family, I was compelled to interview the
maternal ancester, who complied cheerfully but said that in-
asmuch as it was early Spring and she had her gardening to do
she must ask her interviewer to call later in the evening when
the day's tasks were done.
Another old lady, who furnished a fund of information,
was found vigorously sewing upon her own dresses and much
interested in her wardrobe, which, however, contained no nar-
row and slit skirts.
These instances are presented not as exceptional in char-
acter, but as typical of the people who left homes in the East
to endure a perilous six months' trip over the trackless plains
for a destination of which they knew nothing except that it
promised a hard and perilous existence, with problematical
results. They came, leaving their trail marked with mute evi-
dences of severed family ties ; they saw, and before their vision
unrolled a panorama of vast possibilities ; they conquered, first
the savage Indian and then the none less wild forests and
laid wide and deep the foundation for a State that must in
time take rank with the first in this great Union.
Then it was, that the wild nature of the country having
been subdued, transcontinental railroads built and the country
became a fit habitation for man, the work of these hard}-
pioneers was done, their proud, erect forms were bent with
age and hardship endured. The flashing eyes were dimmed
the heads ripened for the grave, and they must reap slight re-
ward for their self-denial and hardships. Even the United
States Government was tardy in acknowledging their worth
and bestowing a well-deserved pension upon these empire
builders to aid them in their declining years. Indeed, the
great majority had sought their reward in another world, when
the Federal Government passed a law granting Indian war
veterans pensions. Few there were then to receive it and they
not long to be beneficiaries.
Let posterity, then, do its duty in granting th^ early settle^
his just due in respect and homage.
WAIL OF AN OLD SETTLER.
Some say this country's improving
And boast of its commerce and trade,
But measured by social enjoyment,
I find it has really decayed.
In the pioneer days on the Sound
When the people had little to wear.
And subsisted on clams the year 'round,
We'd hearty good fellowship here.
The thoughtful, industrious old settler
Was so fond of obliging a friend.
That if anyone wanted his tools
He'd always quit working to lend.
At our gatherings for pastoral pleasure — ■
Dance, picnic or social knockdown.
One man was as good as another,
No kind of distinction was shown.
And even the climate is changing.
For only some ten years ago.
Strawberries got ripe in December
Whilst now it brings four feet of snow.
— Francis Henry.
Qtstortral @k0trl|
It is not necessary to the purposes of this brief historica:
sketch to detail the events connected with the early voyages
of discovery to the Northwest, although they constituted the
basis upon which Spain, Great Britain and the United States
asserted claims to the Northwest Coast.
Russia claimed north of the 51st degree, with all adjacent
islands ; Spain claimed to the 55th degree by right of discovery ;
Great Britain asserted no exclusive right to particular portions
of the coast, but maintained that the voyages of Drake, Cook.
Meares and Vancouver to the coast ; the overland voyages of
^Mackenzie and Thomson, followed by the formation of estab-
lishments within the territory "conferred a right of joint oc-
cupancy with other states, leaving the right of exclusive do
minion in abeyance."
At the outset of the controversy the United States' claim
was two-fold : First, in its own right, based upon the dis-
covery of the Columbia river by Captain Gray; the explora-
tion of that river by Lewis and Clark, followed by settlements
by its citizens upon its banks. Upon the principal that the
discovery of a river followed by acts of occupancy, secured a
right to the territory such river drained, the United States
asserted claim to the territory west of the Rocky Mountains
lying between 42 and 51 degrees north, subject, however, to
the rights of Spain of prior discoveries of islands and lands
I'pon the coast. Second, as successor to France.
By the Louisiana purchase of 1803, the United States ac-
quired the right of continuity of the territory west of the
jMississippi river to the Pacific Ocean, of the breadth of that
province, its north line being the boundary between the Hud-
son's Bay territory and the French provinces in Canada. Ne-
gotiations between the United States and Great Britain were
commenced early in the century; the war of 1812 intervened;
THURSTON COUNTY 7
Astoria, captured during that war, had been restored. In 1818.
the condition was slightly changed by the convention which
permitted a joint occupancy of the territory by citizens and
subjects of both nations, really a non-occupancy by the nations
ttiemselves, for they but agreed that they would not exclude
the citizens of the other, nor gain any right or claim by virtue
of the occupancy by their own citizens. On the 22nd of Feb-
ruary, 1819, the United States, by the Florida treaty, acquired
from Spain all that nation's rights to land upon the Pacific
Coast north of 42nd degree north latitude. In 1824 and 1825
the United States and Great Britain haa respectively con-
cluded treaties with Russia by which 54 degrees 40 minutes
north latitude was established as the south boundary of Rus-
sian possessions on the Northwest Coast.
In 1827 the joint occupancy treaty was renewed, with
the modification that either nation could abrogate it by giving
twelve months' notice. The Oregon question continued to be
agitated until June 15. 1846, the United States Senate advised
President Polk to accept the treaty of limits then offered. By
that treaty 49 degrees north was fixed as the northern bound-
ary. But the treaty of 1846 proved but a temporization. not m
settlement. It yielded to Great Britain all of Vancouver Island,
but was vague as to water boundaries. The indistinct recog-
nition of the possessory rights of the Hudson Bay and Puget
Sound Agricultural Companies, almost wholly in Washington,
left much for controversy. In 1859, war was imminent, grow-
ing out of dispte as to sovereignty as to San Juan Island.
This difficulty was temporized by a military joint occupancy
A special treaty enabled the United States to secure by pur-
chase the extinguishment of the possessory rights of the Hud-
son Bay Company and Puget Sound Agricidtural Compan.w
Not until 1872, by the award of the German Emperor, was the
Avater boundary adjusted and the Oregon controversy finall\'
settled.
What was known as the provisional government of Oregon
was organized in July, 1845, and all that country north of
the Columbia River formed a single County known as Van-
couver District. Sir James Douglas, M. T. Simmons and John
Forrest were the first County Commissioners. Douglas was
connected witli tlie Hudson Bay Company <tnd' Simmons came
8 HISTORICAL SKETCH
into the country in the year 1844, with a company from
Missouri.
Lewis County was organized in 1846, and embraced all
the territory lying north of the Columbia river and west of
the Cowlitz River. Dr. W. T. Tolmie, of Xisqually, wan elected
the first representative.
In April, 1845, at Washougal, i\Irs. ^l. T. Simmons gave
Inrth to the first white child born north and west of the Co-
lumbia River. In March, 1846, ]\Irs. James McAllister gave
birth to a son, the first born in the Puget Sound region. In
the Summer of 1846, Mrs. Sidney S. Ford gave birth to a
daughter, the first American girl born north and west of the
Columbia River. The child after became Mrs. John Shelton
The first marriage recorded in the Colony was at ''New
Market. Puget Sound, at the house of ^Ir. Davis, on the 6th
day of July, by Judge Simmons. Mr. Daniel F. Kinsey to ^liss
Ruth Brock of the former place."
In August of 1847, Jesse Ferguson, Col. Simmons, Frank
Shaw, E. Sylvester, A. B. Rabbeson, Gabriel Jones. A. D. Carne-
fix and John Kindred formed a company for the purpose of
building a sawmill at New Market, named the Puget Sound
Milling Company. The site was the northwest part of the
Lower Falls. The mill was completed during the winter of
that year.
On August 24, 1847, a trail was made between Smithfield
(Olympia) and New Market (Tumwater).
In the Fall of 1847, there arrived in this section Thomas
]\I. Chambers and his sons. David, Andrew, Thomas J. and
McLain, also a Mr. Brail and Geo. Shaser.
The last election held in Lewis County under the Pro-
visional Government w^as in 1848, when Levi Lathrop Smith
was elected Repreesntative to the Oregon Provisional Legisla-
ture and A. B. Rabbeson was elected Sheriff. Mr. Smith did
not live to enter upon the duties of his office. While in a
canoe on his way to New Market in August he was seized
with an epileptic fit and dro-wned. This was the first recorded
death of an American in this section.
Mr. Smith was a partner of Edmund Sylvester in joint
claims owned by them. Under the partnership clause of the
land laws of Oregon's Provisional Government the occupancy
THURSTON COUNTY 9
of claims by each party for the benefit of the firm was per-
missa])le. Smith resided on the Smithfield claim and Sylvester
occupied a prairie farm near the Sound. Thus, upon the death
of Smith, Sylvester, as the survivor of the firm, became owner
of the present site of the City of Olympia. He moved thereon
and built the first hotel. It was 16x2 J:, built of logs and con-
tained two rooms.
Rev. Pascal Rieard and a small party of Oblat mission-
aries in June, 1848, established the St. Joseph ^lission. on
the site of the present city park, on the east of Budd's Inlet.
The Mission continued for several years. Hence the name by
which the point has since been known, and which name is
now g-iven to Olympia 's splendid playground — Priest Point
Park. Another settlement was made about this time almost
directly across the inlet from Priest Point by Samuel Han-
cock. This claim later became the property of Conrad
Schneider.
The Territorial Government of Oregon was established on
August 14, 1848, and included all the Pacific possessions of the
United States north to the 32nd parallel, this line being fixed
by treaty between the United States and Great Britain.
The development of this section of the Oregon territory
was greatly retarded soon after its organization by the gold
discoveries made in California, which caused a stampede from
the Northwest, and considerably reduced the male popula-
tion, who preferred to try their fortunes in the gold fields
rather than continue the pursuit of fortune along slower bu!,
more certain lines. Farms were abandoned ; in many eases
crops were not planted, or, if planted, were left neglected and
unharvested.
After the arrival of Governor Lane to assume the duties
of his office as first Governor of Oregon Territory, Judicial
districts were proclaimed and Judges assigned in two, luit
the third Judicial district which constituted Lewis Countx',
was left without an official clothed with authority to afford
protection in all the territory north of the Columbia River.
The first American vessel owned by Wasliington Tei'i-i-
tory residents hailed from Olympia, on Puget Sound, and was
called the Orbit. She arrived at Olympia on New Years day.
10 HISTORICAL SKETCH
ISoO, and loaded with piles for San Francisco. Her owners
were ]\Iessrs. Sylvester, Jackson, Moore, Shaw and Ebey.
The first Legislature under Oregon Territorial Government
convened at Oregon City, July, 1849. Lewis County was then
included in a Representative and Council district with Clat-
sop County (now Oregon), and was represented by Samuel
T. McKean, of Clatsop, as Councilman, and M. T. Simmons,
as Representative. The session continued one hundred days.
Thomas W. Glascow settled on a claim at what is known
as Ebey's Landing, Whidby Lsland, in 1848, and after some
l)reliminary work returned to New Market (Tumwater) and
induced A. D. Carnefix and A. B. Rabbeson to return to his
liew home with him. At the head of Hood's Canal, which thev
desired to explore, while on their way, they found Indians,
many of whom had never beheld a white man. Though Carne-
fix returned home at the head of the Sound, Rabbeson and
Glascow continued their voyage and in July reached the new
liome of the latter.
About this time there was held in this vicinity a council
of Puget Sound Indians, called together by the Chief of the
Snoqualmies. Patkanim. The object of this meeting was to
induce all the Sound Indians to combine and annihilate the
white settlers. Patkanim was the leader in the effort to
bring about hostilities. He urged that it was only a matter
of a short time when the whites would outnumber the In-
dians, and the latter would then be transported to a land
where the sun never shone, and would there be left to die.
One of the great arguments used by this crafty statesman
and warrior, however, was that by conquering the whites the
Indians would acquire a large amount of property.
This war-like spirit was strongly opposed by the Indians
from the Upper Sound, who felt quite friendly to the whites.
This pacific attitude of the Indians about the head of the
Sound was due to the fact that the stronger tribes on the
lower Sound had made war on the weaker ones and made
slaves of those of the Indians that they took captives. The
presence of the white in and about Smithfield and New Market
had proved a protection to their Indian neighbors. More
than this the whites had thus far proven themselves scrupu-
lously honest in their dealings with the Indians and thus had
THURSTON COUNTY 11
the "King George" or "Boston ]\Ien" won their confidence.
This opposition to hostilities came near causing a fight
on the council grounds. Rabbeson and Glascow, seeing that
it would be unsafe to remain in the neighborhood left, the
latter abandoning his claim.
In the Spring of 1849, a party of Snoqualmie Indians
made an attack on the Hudson Bay Company's fort at Xis-
qually, in which Leander C. Wallace was killed and two men,
Lewis and Walker, were w^ounded.
From accounts derived from various sources the following
appear to be the facts : A force of Snoqualmies visited the
fort, ostensibly to settle a dispute with the Xisqually tribe.
There appears to have been a force varying according to sev-
eral accounts, from 100 to 150. Patkanim was within the fort
conferring with Dr. Tolmie, the Agent, while the gates were
closed against the other Indians. Wallace, Lewis and Walker,
visitors at the fort, together with one, Chas. Wren, outside
the fort, noticed hostile demonstrations on the part of th.'
Indians, and apprehending danger, retreated towards the
gates. Wren reached it and tried to enter, but was pre-
vented from within. The discharge of a gun at this timi^
precipitated an attack. It was fired into the air by a guard
on the inside, preparatory to reloading, and was used as a
pretext for the attack. A volley was then fired from the fort
and the Indians retreated.
Wallace was the first white man killed by Indians on
Puget Sound. The Indians were induced for a consideration
of eighty blankets, to deliver up the murderers for trial. This
method of dealing was strongly resented by Governor Lane,
as it could be construed as putting a premium rather than
a punishment on such outrages.
However, before he could prevent it the deal, which had
])een authorized by an Indian Agent for this district, had been
consummated and six Snoqualmie Indians given up by the
crafty Patkanim.
At a special term of court held in Ft. Steilacoom the six
prisoners were indicted, tried, and two convicted, who were
leaders in the attack. The remaining four were acquitted.
A vast conclave of Indians were present at the execution,
which occurred the day following conviction.
12 HISTORICAL SKETCH
This was the first United States court held North of the
Columbia River. It was convened on the 1st day of October.
the trial continued through the second day and upon the third
day the two Indians were suspended, as mute object lessons
to the Indians that the law must be respected. Some of the
jurors who participated in this trial traveled two hundred
miles from their homes to reach the court. The summary
justice then dealt out could be well used as object lessons
for more modern courts.
Chief Justice Bryant presided at this trial. The prosecu-
tion was conducted by Judge Alonzo A. Skinner and the Court
assigned David Stone, then Prosecuting Attorney for the
Third Judicial District to defend the Indians.
Edmund Sylvester, who by the death of his partner, had
become sole owner of the claim they had located at the head
of Budd's Inlet, in 1850, laid off the claim as a town site and
named it Olympia. The name suggests the idea that even in
this remote region with rude environments, there were those
conversant with the classics. The name was bestowed by
Charles H. Smith, who together with IMr. Simmons, had that
year established a store in the new settlement, at the corner
of Main and Second Streets. The name was doubtless sug-
gested by the beautiful views spread out before them at the
head of the Sound, where to the North the Olympic Range was
visible and to the East old Rainier reared his majestic head.
At this period, of course, the methods of living by th-'-
inhabitants were most primitive. Little in the way of house-
hold necessities had reached the new settlement and luxurier>
were not missed by these hardy pioneers.
Only the necessaries of life and those fancy articles which
appealed to the Indians were dealt in at the time. However,
in 1852, George A. Barnes opened a general merchandise stor:^
at the West end of First Street, from which time business as-
sumed more pretentious proportions. Later business houses
were opened by A. J. ]\Ioses, J. G. Parker, Sam Coulter, L.
■ Bettman, Goldman & Rosenblatt, and Louisson & Company.
As Olympia was the only town on the Sound a customs house
was established here in 1851.
Upon the reciept of news of the discovery of gold on
Queen Charlotte's Island, this year, a schooner was chartered
THURSTON COUNTY' 13
by Samuel Williams, J. Colvig, "William Billings, S. D. Howe.
Charles Weed, S. 8. Ford and three Sargent Brothers to go
to the new fields. The schooner was wrecked on the East
side of the island, i)lundered by the Indians and the gold-
seekers taken prisoners. They were rescued by a revenue
cutter and troops frojn Steilacoom and returned home after
two months' absence.
The year 1852 found the settlers in fair condition with
brighter prospects, for coal had been discovered and saw-
mills had been established on the Sound, and these indu.stries
had caused a few shipments to be made to San Francisco, the
l^eginning of a trade that was destined at a later date to grow
to such dimensions.
The Soinid country, which then constituted the Northern
part of the Territory of Oregon, w^as isolated. I\Iany of the
towns and settlements were five hundred miles from the
seat of government, and under such conditions the settlers
here received little attention or consideration from the Ter-
ritorial Legislature, though at this period it was considered
that Lewis County, that section north of Cowlitz County, con-
tained a little over three hundred inhabitants, of which 180
were citizens.
Pacific County was created in 1851 and in 1852 a imw
County was created to include the territory west of the Cas-
cade ^Mountains and north of the Cowlitz divide. The new
County was named Thurston, after Samuel R. Thurston, a
highly cultured gentleman who liad b(nMi elected to Congress
by the factions opposed to the Hudson Bay Company. Thurs
Ion died at sea April I), 1851, while returning from the Na-
tional Capitol His remains were buried at Acapulco, tliough
1hey were afterward brought to Salem, Oregon, and buried,
nuirked with a stone l)earing this inscription: "Here rests
Oregon's delegate, a man of genius and learning, a lawyer and
statesman, his Christian virtues equalled by his wide philaii-
throphy. His public acts are his best euloguim."
In accordance with the act creating the new County of
Thurston an election was held in June, 1852, at which the fol-
lowing officers were elected: A. J. Simmons, Sheriff; A. 'SI.
Foe, County Clerk; D. R. 15igclow, Treasurer; H. S. {'.alley,
U HrSTORICAL SKETCH
Assessor; Eilnmiul Sylvester, Coroner,- A. A. Denny, S. S. Ford
jiiul David Shelton, Counter Commissioners.
The records of the first session of the Connty Coraimis-
sioners, shows the following- business transacted:
The tax levy was fixed at 4 mills for County purposes,
1Y2 mills for schools, IV2 mills Territorial, and sf'l poll tax.
T. F. IMcElroy and Geo. Barnes were appointed Justices:
of the Peace.
Eoad districts were established and Wm. Packwood was:
authorized to establish a ferry on the Xisqually River.
Precincts were established as follows: Skagit precinct,
Whidby Island and all islands north. Port Townsend pre-
cinct, territory north of Hood's Canal on the west side of
the Sound. Duwamish precinct, east side of Sound north of
Puyallup River and all south of Hood's Canal to the parallel
of the north parallel of the Puyallup river on west side of
Sound. Steilacoom precinct, territory north of Nisqually
River to the Puyallup on the east side of the Sound and thence
due west to mouth of Xiscpially River to the parallel of the
mouth of the Puyallup. Olympia precinct, territory south of
Steilacoom precinct.
For school purposes: Olympia precinct contained dis
tricts 1 and 2 ; Duwamish was designed as one district, Skagit
precinct, one district; Port Townsend precinct as one district.
The first term of the district Court was convened at Olym-
pia this year and Elwood Evans. D. R. Bigelow. Quincy A.
Brooks and S. H. ]\Ioses were admitted to practice.
Thornton P. McElroy and J. W. Wiley printed the first
newspaper published in Thurston County. It was called the
Columbian and the first issue appeared on September 11, 1852.
The regular district school opened this year and was
taught by David L. Phillips.
The pioneer settlers now began to feel the absolute ne-
cessity for a division of the territory and desired to be set aside
from Oregon. Agitation along these lines resulted in a call
for a convention to meet at Montieello November 25, 1852.
Monticello was then a considerable settlement on the Cow-
litz River.
Thurston Countv sent as delegates to this convention M.
THURSTON COUNTY 15
T. Simmons, S. D. Ruddle, S. P. Moses, Adam Wylie. Q. A.
Jrooks aiid C, H. Hale.
The result of this convention was that Congress was mem-
orialized to create the Territory of Columbia out of that jior-
tion of Oregon lying north and west of the Columbia River.
There was no opposition on the part of the people of Oregon
to this separation, and the result was that the new^ territory
Avas created by an Act signed by the President on March 3.
1853. Congress, however, oTerruled the people in the mattei
i<f a name for the new territory, and inasmuch as there was
iilready a District of Columbia, it was decided to honor the
Father of His Country — hence the Territory of Washington.
A school house was erected in the Fall of 1852 on the now
northwest corner of Sixth and Franklin Streets, Olympia. The
f<tructure was a frail one and succumbed under a heavy fal;
of snow during the winter. It was rebuilt later.
The tide of immigration now set in quite strong, and de
mand for lumber increasing, a mill was built at Xew ^Market
by Ira Ward, N. Barnes and S. Hays, wnth a daily output of
3,000 feet per day.
In January, 1853, before the new Territorial Governmenl
became effective, the Oregon Territorial Legislature created
the Counties of Pierce, King, Island and Jefferson, all out of
Thurston County, leaving the latter to include only the pres-
ent Counties of Thurston, Chehalis and ^lason.
President Pierce, soon after his inauguration, appointed
Isaac I. Stevens as Governor of the new Territory; Chas. H.
]\Iason, Secretary ; J. S. Clendennin, Attorney ; J. Patton An-
derson, Marshal; Edward Lander, Chief Justice; Victor ]Mon-
roe and 0. B. McFadden, Associate Justices.
Marshal Anderson's first official act was to cause a cen
hus to be taken, and a population of 3,965 was reported, of
which 1682 were voters.
Transportation and mail facilities in 1853 were very un-
satisfactory for the residents of the Sound region. At this
time connection was made with Portland by means of a stage
which left Olympia every Tuesday, connecting with boats on
the Columbia. Later, how(;ver, B. F. Yantis and A. 15. Ralv
beson formed a partnership for the purpose of running a
16 HISTORICAL SKETCH
.stage line, and advertised to put their passengers through in
twelve hours.
In 1853 the resources of the County began to be devel-
(pped. A little coal was mined, a bed of natural oysters was
discovered on Budd's Inlet, and hewed timber was quoted at
16 to 18 cents per cubic foot, shingles $4.50 to $5.00 per thous-
and and cordwood $4.00 per cord.
The necessity for an emigrant route over the Cascades
led to a public meeting being held in Thurston County and
a committee appointed to view out a route, and a road through
the Natchez pass was the result, which was a means of greatly
stimulating emigration.
In the Summer of 1853, a census taken for Thurston
County showed a population of 996. The first grand and
petit jurors were drawn at this time.
Governor Stevens reached Olympia on November 25,
1853, five months and nineteen days from St. Paul. Secretary
Charles H. Mason had already arrived.
Among those ready to welcome the new Governor to th?
Sound were Colonel William Cock, Shirley Ensign, D. R. Bige-
low, Geo. A. Barnes, H. A. Goldsborough, Jno. M. Swan, C.
H. Hale, Judge B. P. Yantis, Judge Gilmore Hays, Jno. G.
Parker, Quincy A. Brooks, Dr. G. K. Willard, Col. M. T. Sim-
mons, Capt. Clanrick Crosby, Ira Ward, James Biles, Joseph
Cushman, S. W. Percival, Edwin Marsh, R. M. Walker, Levi
and James Offut, J. C. Head, W. Dobbins, Isaac Hawk, Rev.
Geo. F. Whitworth, Jared S. Hurd, H. R. Woodward. B. F.
Brown, and M. Hurd.
The arrival of the new Governor was the most momentous
event that had occurred in the history of Olympia, and on his
appearance in the garb of a hardy frontiersman he was given
a hearty welcome and reception at the Washington Hotel
(now standing) at the corner of JMain and Second Streets,
and when, a little later Governor Stevens delivered a lecture,
giving the results of his explorations for a Northern trans-
continental route, the enthusiasm of the pioneers was
boundles.'?.
Immediately upon arrival of the Governor, he issued ;;
proclamation establishing election districts, and appointing
January 30, 1854, as the time for holding an election for dele-
THURSTON COUNTY 17
gate to Congress, and members of the Legislature, -which was
to meet in Olympia Febrrary 28th.
The Governor appointed M. T. Simmons Indian Agent for
the Puget Sound Indians and sent him to visit the various
tribes, and bear a message of friendship fr;)m tlie White
Father.
Tlie first political e;)mpaign in Thurston County was an
exciting one, in which three parties participated, the Demo-
cratic, AVhig and Union. The Legislative nominees on the re-
spective tickets were as follow\s :
Democratic — For Councilman, D. R. Bigelow and S. D.
Kuddell ; for Representatives. L. D. Durgin, George Gallaher,
David Shelton and A. J. Chambers.
Union — For Councilman, D. R. BigeloAv and B. F. Yan-
tis; for Representatives, A. W. Moore, F. W. Glaseow, S. S.
Ford, and James H. Roundtree.
Whig — For Councilman, B. F. Yantis and E. J. Allen;
for Representatives, Ira Ward, C. H. Hale, J. L. Brown. Galla-
tin Hartsock.
After a short but hard-fought campaign the following
were elected: Councilmen, B. F. Yantis and D. R. Bigelow;
Representatives, L. D. Durgin, David Shelton, Ira Ward, and
C. H. Hale.
Judge Columbus Lancaster was elected first Delegate to
Congress.
TTpon convening of the Legislature in a small two-story
building on Main Street, between Second and Third, the Gov-
ernor delivered an able message, in which he predicted a Ijril-
liant future for the new territory, much of which has already
been realized ; urged County and school organization and the
organization of a militia. He dwelt on the importance of
extinguishing the Indian titles and the claims of the Hudson
Bay and Puget Sound Agricultural Companies and settling
the boundary line of the British side, and advised the Leg-
islature to memorialize Congress for the appointment of a
Surveyor-General to facilitate the survey (vf the lands, and
advocated many other salutary measures which were promptly
adopted by the Legislature except the recommendation re-
garding a militia. This proved a bad oversight as later de-
18 HISTORICAL SKETCH
velopments showed, when two years later the Indians became
hostile.
Governor Stevens purchased Block 8-i, Olynipia, for his fu-
ture home, and a tract of ten acres in what is now known
as Maple Park. He also contracted for the purchase of the
north half of the Walker donation claim, between Olympia
and Tumwater.
Governor Stevens, amid his other duties, worked with
zeal on the reports of his exploration for the Northern trans-
continental route and was assisted by Capt. IMcClellan (after-
wards Gen. Geo. B. McClellan) and others. Governor Stevens'
offices were in two one-story building's on the West side of
Main Street, between Second and Third Streets.
The Governor reported to Secretary of War Jefferson
C. Davis on his exploration and later received peremptory
orders to bring his operations along- these lines to a close,
which he did, but not without urging their continuance at a
later day. The opposition with which Governor Stevens met
in this regard was doubtless due to the eag'erness of the future
President of the Southern Confederacy for a Southern trans-
continental route.
The acts of the first Legislature affecting Thurston County
was that of creating Chehalis County out of the southwest
part of the former and Sawamish out of the northwest sec-
tion, thus materially reducing the area of Thurston. The
name of the latter County was afterward changed to Mason,
after the first Secretary of the Territory.
Also a road was ordered located between Olympia and
Shoalwater Bay; from Cathlamet to S. S. Ford's in Thurston
County; Olympia to the mouth of the Columbia River, and
Olympia to Monticello.
The Legislature also appointed County officers for the
various Counties, and the following were assigned for Thurs-
ton County: County Commissioners, S. S. Ford, David J.
Chambers and James McAllister ; Auditor, U. E. Hicks ; Sher-
iff, Frank Kennedy ; Assessor, Whitfield Kertley ; Probate
Judge, Stephen D. Ruddle; County Treasurer, D. R. Bigelow;
School Superintendent, Elwood Evans ; William Plumb, Nathan
Eaton and Joseph Broshears, Justices of the Peace.
THURSTON COUNTY 19
Stephen Ruddle deelining the Probate Judgeship, Joseph
Cushmau was appointed in his place.
The County Commissioners adopted measures protecting
the school interests in the matter of public lauds; fixed the
license fee for retailing liquor at $100 for six months, and
bowling alleys at $25 per annum, and accepted a report from
Thos. J. Chambers, who had been appointed to mark out a
quarter section of land for the benefit of a County seat to be
the most valuable unclaimed laud within the limits of the
County. Mr. Chambers reported in favor of section 19, town-
ship 18, range 1 West.
The tax rolls for 185-1 showed a valuation of $418,140
and the rate of taxation was fixed at 3 mills.
The Commissioners this year authorized the construction
of a bridge across the Bay on the Eastside at a cost of $500,
and (me across the Skookumchuck, for which they appropriated
.$1,000. The former bridge was built at a cost of $1,500, $1,000
being subscribed for that purpose.
Up to this time no proper provision had been made for
County offices and records were kept in a very temporary
manner. The Commissioners now authorized a contract for
a Court House to cost not to exceed $1,200 and ordered the
Auditor to procure suitable books for the records.
At the election in 1854 three tickets were in the field,
Free Soil, Democratic and Whig.
There were no local issues involved and the battle was
fought along the lines agitated in the East. The straight
Democratic County ticket was elected, as follows :
Representatives, Wm. Cock, B. L. Henness, Stephen Guth-
rie, Wm. P. Wells; Count}^ Commissioners, Levi Shelton, S. S.
Ford, John Low ; Probate Judge, Joseph Cushmau ; School
Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow; Auditor, U. E. Ilicks; Treas-
urer, Wm. Rutledge; Sheriff, A. B. Rabbeson ; Assessor. Wm.
Packwood ; Coroner, A. J. Baldwin. J. Patton Anderson, who
had come to tlie Territory as United States Marshal, was
elected as Delegate to Congress.
During this period Governor Stevens retununl East, spend-
ing much of his time at the National Capitol, in the interests
of. his Territory. IMuch of the legislation secured for Wash-
ington was due to his efforts, which included needed amend-
20 HISTORICAL SKETCH
liients to the land laws and the creation of the ofiPee of Sur-
veyor General, and making- appropriations for surveys and
mail service.
Governor Stevens and his family left New York City for
the Territory September 20, 1354, and arrived at their new
home in December. A pen picture of the impression gained
by the familj', upon their arrival, as described by General
Stevens, showed conditions as they then prevailed :
"It was a dreary dark December day. It had rained
considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia was ankle
deep in mud and thrided a dense forest with a narrow track.
With expectations raised at the idea of seeing the Capital and
chief town of the Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a
small hill in the edge of the timber, reached the summit and
eagerly looked to see the new metropolis. Their hearts sank
with bitter disappointment as they surveyed the dismal and
forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of land, running
into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track,
winding among the stumps, which stood thickly on either side
twenty small wooden houses bordered the road, while back of
them on the left and next the shore were a number of Indian
lodges, with canoes drawn up on the beach, and Indians and
dogs lounging about." The little hill mentioned is where the
Masonic Temple novv^ stands, opposite the new Federal building.
The site of the Indian camp is now Columbia Street, between
Third and Fourth. There were only one or two buildings
above, or south of Sixth Street. The public square was a
tangle of fallen timber. Main street terminated in Giddings'
wharf, which was left high and dry at low tides."
It is not a matter of surprise that the Governor's family
were appalled at the appearance of their future home, accen-
tuated as it was by the hardships of the trip from the East,
the latter part of which is thus described:
"* * * The party took canoes (at a point named Rainier),
manned by Indians, crossed the Columbia and paddled a few
miles up the Cowlitz to Monticello, where they spent the night.
At daylight the next morning the Governor and family em-
barked in one canoe, while the trunks and baggage followed
in another, and pushed up stream against a swift current.
There were in the canoe the Governor, his wife and four
THURSTON COUNTY 21
children, the nurse and a erew of four Indians, two on each
end. It was a dark, drizzling' day. with frequent showers.
The passengers sat upon the bottom of the canoe upon plenty
of Indian mats and well wrapped in blankets, and, except for
the strained and irksome position were fairly comfortable.
The Indians, urged by promises of extra pay, paddled vigor-
ously. At the rapids (and it seemed that nearly all the stream
was in rapids) they laid aside their paddles, and, standing
up, forced the canoe ahead with poles, Mdiich they Avielded with
great skill and vigor. * * * It was dark Avhen they reached
Cowlitz Landing, thirty miles from ]Montieello.^'
]\Irs. Stevens continues the narrative, here quoted, as a
vivid description of the methods of travel in this section at
that time :
"* * * We walked ankle deep in mud to a small log
house, where we had a good meal. Here we found a number
of rough, dirty-looking men, with pantaloons tucked inside
their boots, and so much hair upon their heads and faces that
they all looked alike. After tea we were show-n a room to
sleep in, full of beds, which were for the women. I was so
Avorn out with the novel way of traveling, that I laid down
on a narrow strip of bed, not undressed, all my family along-
side on the same bed. The Governor sat on a stool near by,
and. strange to say, slept sound through the long, dismal night
He had been shown his bed up through a hole on top of the
shanty. He said one look was sufficient. IMen Avere strewn
as thick as possible on the floor in their blankets. The steam
generated from their wet clothes, boots and blankets was
stifling. One small hole cut through the roof Avas the only
ventilation. As soon as breakfast was over the next morn-
ing, we mounted a wagon without springs and proceeded on
our journey. There surely were no worse roads in the world
than this. The horses went down deep into the mud every
step ; the wheels sank to the hub, and often had to be pried
out. We forded rivers, the w^ater coming above our ankles in
the wagon. jMany big, deep holes th(\v would .iump over,
making the horses run quick, when the wagon woiihl .jump
across, shaking us up fearfully. In one of these holes the
horses fell down, and we stuck fast in the nuid. We wcvo
taken from the Avagon by men of our party, plunging up to
22 HISTORICAL SKETCH
their kneos in iiiud, jijkI carrying lis out by sheer force of
their strength. After seating us upon a fallen h)g, the horses
were, with difficulty, extricated from the mud. After an-
other long day's tiresome travel we stopped at a log' house
for the night."
The Governor's party proceeded the following day through
a drizzling rain, with the roads all but impassible. At Saun-
ders Bottom, wdiere the Town of Chehalis now stands, the mud
was knee deep for two miles. This day the party made 25
miles. The travelers reached Olympia the next day, after
80 miles' travel, upon a somewhat better road. Such were
the hardships endured by those looking for new homes in the
far Northwest, but harder yet were the experiences of those
reaching here by way of the Natchez Pass, as many were com-
ing that way.
An idea of the cost of living during this period, ma.y be
gleaned from the following market report, published in the
only paper printed in the Territory at that time :
Potatoes, per bushel, $3 ; flour, $10 per 100 pounds ; pork,
20 cents ; butter, $1 per pound ; onions, $4 ber bushel ; eggs,
$1 a dozen ; beets, $3.50 per bushel ; sugar, 12^,4 cents ; coffee,
18 cents; tea, $1; molasses, 75 cents; salmon, 10 cents. Sawed
lumber for $20 per thousand; cedar, $30; shingles, $-1.50; piles,
per foot, 5 to 8 cents ; square timber, per foot, 12 to 15 cents.
In December, 1854, W. B. Goodell established a stage line
between Olympia and Cowlitz via Grand ]Mound, leaving
Olympia on Tuesdays and Fridays of each week. At Cowlitz,
near the present site of Toledo, it made connections with
boats for Monticello and Portland. Olympia to Grand IMound,
.$3.50; to Cowlitz. $10.00.
W. W. Miller built a saw mill the latter part of 1854 on
the East side of Budd's Inlet, a short distance below the
town, and the old Masonic hall was built on the site of the
more pretentious Temple of today. In this old building the
Legislative session of 1855 was held. Edward Giddings built
a wharf, 300 feet long, at the foot of Main Street, which was
used for many years. Later it was extended to deep water
and was used until the Government deepened the channel for
a nearer approach to the town.
In 1855, Samuel Coulter, who had been appointed As-
THURSTON COUNTY 23
sessor, reported the valuation of taxable property at $396,825,
and a levy of 4 mills was made. The County debt, at the same
time amounted to $4,888.29.
Among other duties devolving upon the Legislature of
1855 was that of permanently locating the seat of Govern-
ment. Hon. Arthur A. Denny was a member of the House
from King County, and spoke as follows upon the subject:
"Mr. Speaker: — I propose to do now what I have not
done before : I propose to say now what I have not heretofore
said to anyone (if my memory serves me) relative to my
views upon this location question. I now for the first time
announce my purpose to vote for the location of the territorial
capital at or near Olympia ; and for my vote upon this ques-
tion I shall briefly assign a few reasons.
"Justice to all sections of the territory require at our
hands patient and careful investigation as to the proper place
at which to locate the Territorial capital. Its location should
be central both as to its geographical position, as well as to
its center compared with our population. In my investigation
of this question, I have arrived at the conclusion that Olympia
is nearer the geographical center than any other point I
have heard mentioned during the discussion on this subject —
and that it is also nearer the center of our present popula-
tion. If, Mr. Speaker, you take Thurston County, with its
population and add it to the Counties north, there will be
found a clear and decided majority of the population of our
Territory in those Counties. If you will take Thurston from
the northern Counties and unite her with the Counties south.
then it will show a still more decided majority south. Thus it
is clearly demonstrated that Olympia is about the center of
population in this Territory. It is as easily accessible from
all parts of the Territory as any place which has been named
during the pendency of this question, or that could have been
named. It is at the head of navigation at a point the farthest
inland, accessible from all Counties north by all manner of
watercraft from steanu'r down to the Indian canoe. It is in
a direct line from the Counties south to the Counties north,
of the Territory. If you travel from the northern to the
southern Counties, you must go through Thurston or travel
out of your course. If you travel from the southern to the
24 HISTORICAL SKETCH
northern Counties you have to pass through Thurston. Then
as to the particular hieati'ai — the site is ehjarly eligible, the
land selected is elevated and overlooks the placid waters of
l^uget Sound for many miles to the northward. The scenery
is grand and imposing — to the north the Coast Range is seen
looming up in the distance, Mount Olympus standing out in
bold relief amidst the hundreds of less elevated peaks iu the
vicinity.
"Indeed, Mr. Speaker, I know of no other place combin-
ing anything like the claims, all things considered, to the Ter-
litorial capital as does this immediate vicinity; hence I shall
most willingly give my support to the bill under consideration.
In doing so, I am influenced by no motives of a pecuniary
character — I own no town lots or landed estate in Thurston
County and such is the poor estimate of my vote or influ-
ence that I have not had even the offer of an oyster supper
from tiie good citizens of Olympia as an inducement for
either."
Even as early as 1855 the question of prohibition was, to
some extent, agitated. This year the Legislature submitted
the question of the maruifacture and sale of ardent spirits to a
vote of the people of the Territory at the next election in
July. Quite a vigorous campaign was had, Elwood Evans
being appointed Chairman of the Executive Committee, who
issued a call upon temperance people to form societies.
A Democratic County Convention was called for April of
this year. The Whig convention was held ]\Iay 5, and the
Free Soil convention May 26. At the election Thurston County
gave J. Patton Anderson, Democratic candidate for Delegate
to Congress nine majority. Wm. Cock was elected Council-
man ; R. M. Walker, C. B. Baker, D. J. Chambers, Repre-
sentatives; T. F. Berry, Surveyor; Assessor, W. B. D. New-
man; Commissioner, J. S. Broshears; Fence Viewer, R. ]\[.
Walker; Lieutenant Colonel, Joseph Miles; ^Major, J. K. Ilurd.
The vote of Thurston by precincts will give the reader a
practical idea of how the population was scattered through-
out the County : Three hundred and seventy-three votes were
cast as follows: Olympia precinct, 260; South Bay, 18; Black
Lake, 15; Yelm Prairie, 18; Grand ]Mound, 39; Miami,
THURSTON COUNTY 25
9 ; Coal Bank, 18. Prohibition received a majority of 14 votes
lu this County, but failed to earrj^ in the Territory.
In August, 1855, a two story school building was erected
to replace the one that had been crushed by snoAv a few years
previously. This building has served various purposes. Erected
as a school house originally, it was so used for years ; from 1871
to 1892 it was the Court house, and latter became a newspaper
office. It has since been moved off the property at Sixth and
Franklin and is now occupied as a lodging house.
A history of the year 1856 is almost exclusively a story
of Indian troubles. All the serious difficulties that Thurs-
ton County experienced in this regard, or during which much
apprehension was felt, was during this year. Reports were
coming to Olympia of troubles in the White River valley, which
aroused considerable apprehension. The Yakima tribes were
the troublesome element, and it was presumed then, and has
since been accepted as reasonably certain, that they were en-
couraged in their depredations by the Hudson Bay Company,
which, in this way, hoped to discourage immigTation.
The first overt act to occur in Thurston County, -and
from which trouble may be said to date, was early in 1854,
when a Kake (a Northern tribe) Indian was killed by a man
named Burke, both of whom worked for H. L. Butler, at But-
ler's Cove. Subsequently the Northern Indians frequently
visited the head of the Sound and committed depredations.
The acts at least became so flagrant that Commander Swart-
out, then in command of what United States navy there was
in these waters, was notified. On November 20th, he made
an attack upon their camp at Port Gamble. About thirty
were killed and twenty wounded, their camp and canoes
destroyed. The remainder were taken to Victoria. This act
l)ut served to whet the appetite of the Indians for revenge.
The Indians on the Sound, including those on the Straits,
numbered about 8,000, divided into many tribes and bands.
Governor Stevens, early in his administration, outlined
a very wise and pacific policy toward the Indians, and one
which he devoted himself to actively and sincerely, the fea-
tures of which were :
1. To concentrate the Indians upon a few reservations
26 HISTORICAL SKETCH
and encourage them to cultivate the soil and adopt civilized
habits.
2. To pay for their lands in annuities of l)Iankets, cloth-
ing, and stable articles during a long term of years, rather
than in money.
3. To furnish them with schools, teachers, farmers and
farming implements, blacksmiths and carpenters, with shops
of their trade.
4. To discourage wars and disputes among them.
5. To abolish slavery.
6. To stop, as far as possible, the use of liquor.
7. They were to retain rights of hunting and fishing on
vacant lands.
8. That at some future date, when they were deemed
fitted for it, the reservations were to be allotted to them in
severalty.
The first Council in Thurston County was held on ^IcAl-
lister Creek, a mile above its mouth, on the right bank.
The Indians, to the number of 650, assembled, and Gov-
ernor Stevens made an address, at once pacific and appealing,
in which he made plain to the Indians his policy as outlined
above, and invited their co-operation.
The treaty was then read, section by section, and the
Indians given every opportunity to discuss it. After which,
there being no objections, the treaty was signed b.y Governor
I. I. Stevens and the Chiefs, Delegates and Headmen on the
part of the Indians. Provisions and presents were then de-
livered to the Chiefs, who divided them among the Indians.
Following is a synopsis of the treaty:
1. The Indians to cede their lands in Thurston, Pierce
and parts of Mason and King to the United States.
2. Set off as reservations : Squaxon Island, containing
about 1280 acres ; a square tract of two sections near and
south of the mouth of McAllister Creek and another equal
tract on the south side of Commencement Bay, Avith accessible
roads to and through them.
3. Conceded right of fishing and hunting on other than
claimed lands.
4. Twenty-two thousand five hundred dollars to be
paid in annuities in staple and useful articles.
THURSTON COUNTY 27
5. Thirty thousand two hundred and fifty dollars to
be expended in placing the Indians on their reservations.
6. Empowered the President to remove the Indians when
the interests of the Territory demanded, by reimbursing the
Indians for improvements.
7. Prohibited use of annuities to pay personal debts.
8. Prohibited wars, and provided for arbitration of dif-
ferences by the Government.
9. Excluded licjuor from reservations on penalty of for-
feiture of annuity.
10. Provided for a General Agency and instruction in
useful trades for twenty years.
11. Abolished slavery.
12. Prohibited trade by the Indians outside of the UniteJ
States, and forbade foreign Indians residing on the reserva-
tions except by consent of the Agent.
Sixty-tv/o Indians signed. Leschi, an intelligent and de-
signing Indian, who has since been immortalized by having
a Seattle park named for him, being the third. The first signer
was Qui-ee-muth, Leschi 's brother. Both these Indians met
death as a reward for their treachery.
On October 14, 1855, Acting Governor Mason issued a
proclamation, stating conditions and called for the enrollment
of two Companies, and Vancouver and Olympia were named
as places of enrollment.
The Company enrolled at Olympia was called the Puget
Sound IMounted Volunteers, which elected officers as follows ;
Captain, Gilmore Hays; First Lieutenant, Jared S. Hurd ; Sec-
ond Lieutenant, Wm. Martin; First Sergeant, Joseph Gibson;
Second Sergeant, H. D. Cock; Third Sergeant, Thomas
Prather ; Fourth Sergeant, Joseph White ; First Corporal, Jo-
seph S. Taylor; Second Corporal, Whitfield Kirtley; Third
Corporal, D. T. Wheelock; Fourth Corporal, John Scott.
The people were disappointed in receiving arms that were
expected at that time, which necessitated a visit b.y Surveyor
General Tilton to Seattle with a view to securing arms from
the Decatur, a sloop of war, and the revenue cutter Jefferson
Davis, both then in the harbor. He was successful to the ex •
tent of securing 30 muskets, 40 carbines, 50 holster pistols, 50
sabers and belts and 3500 ball cartridges.
28 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Nathan Eaton, a settler in Thurston, was authorized bv
Acting Governor IMason, to organize a Company of Rangers,
which was officered as follows: First Lieutenant, James Mc-
Allister; Second Lieutenant, James Tullis; Third Lieutenant.
A. ]\L Poe ; First Sergeant. John Harold ; Second Sergeant,
Chas. E. Weed; Third Sergeant, W. W. Miller; Fourth Ser-
geant, S. Phillips ; First Corporal, S. D. Reinhart ; Second
Corporal, Thos. Bracken ; Third Corporal, S. Hodgdon ; Fourth
Corporal, James Hughes.
Both Companies proceeded to White River valley on Oc-
tober 20. 1855.
A Company was organized on IMound Prairie and the
citizens then built a blockhouse for protection. A Company
was also formed on Chambers Prairie.
As a precautionary measure it was deemed wise to hold
a reserve force and four more Companies were called for. By
the terms of this call. Lewis, Thurston, Pierce and Samamish
were to furnish one Company to enroll at Olympia. This
Company enrolled 110 men and elected the following officers:
Captain, Geo. B. Goudy; First Lieutenant, W. B. Affleck; Sec-
ond Lieutenant, J. K. Hurd ; First Sergeant, Francis Lindler ;
Second Sergeant, A. J. Baldwin; Third Sergeant, F. W. Sealy;
Fourth Sergeant, James Roberts. Jos. Walraven, E. W. Austin,
Hiel Barnes and Joseph Dean, Corporals.
Stockades for the protection of families were built in
this County, one on Chambers Prairie and one on Mound
Prairie. Business was practically suspended in town and
claims Vv^ere abandoned in the country. IMen were either pre-
paring to leave for the scene of the trouble or were engaged
in the erection of forts and stockades for protection.
The Rangers left home on October 24th, to seek the wilv
Chief of the Nesquallys, Leschi, who was the instigator of
much of the trouble and hostile attitude of many of the na-
tives, but they found he had gone to the White River Valley.
and the troops immediately started in pursuit. At Puyallup
Crossing, Captain Eaton, Lieutenant McAllister and Connell,
together with a friendly Lidian, went ahead of their Com-
pany to have a conference with the Indians. The Indians,
with characteristic treachery, professed friendship. Upon re-
turning to camp, i\IcAllister and Connell were fired upon and
THURSTON COUNTY 29
killed. An Indian rode to the IMeAllister claim and told the
family of IMeAllister's death and helped them to the fort on
Chambers' Pi-airie. A few days later Cols. A. B. Closes and
Joseph ]\Iiles were killed. It was for the mnrder of these
men that Lesehi was afterward executed.
Emissaries from the hostiles on the East side of the moun-
tains visited the Sound Indians, and by ingenious argument in-
cited the natives on this side to hostility. Straggling bands
Avere perpetrating outrages here and there, and thus were
families intimidated and forced to take refuge in Olympia
A town meeting was held, at which Wm. Cock was chosen
chairman and Elwood Evans, secretary. After discussing
the situation it was resolved to build a stockade. Rev. J. F
Devore, R. M. Walker and Wm. Cock were constituted a com-
mittee to proceed at once on works for defense, and. if neces-
sary, to detain the brig Tarquina, then in the harl~»or, as a
means of refuge.
W^hile this condition existed and a sable cloud lay Ioav
over the little town, the bodies of ^McAllister, Closes and
]\Iiles were brought in, and during a dismal fall of rain, the
little community bared their heads in grief over the mortal
remains of their first martyrs. The three young men were
buried on Chambers' Prairie.
A stockade was erected along Fourth Street, from bay
to bay, with a block house at the corner of Main, on which
was placed a cannon.
These Avere merely precautionary measures. Actual fight-
ing occurred only in the White and Puyallup Valleys, and iri
December, the ^lilitia Companies Avere disbanded.
An attack on Seattle occurred January 26, 1856, an 1
CoA'ernor Stevens then issued a proclamation calling for six
Companies, tAvo of which Avere to enroll at Olympia.
The entire Avhite population of the Sound at this tim:
Avas barely 4,000 souls and all the male population fit to bear
arms had been and Avere noAv devoting their time and energies
1o defense, rather than in the pursuit of their occupations;
they were destitute and discouraged, and Avere receiving little
or no help from the Government.
The first Company here to respond Avas officered as fol-
loAvs: Captain, Gilmore Hays; First Lieutenant, A. B. Rabbe-
30 HISTORICAL SKETCH
son ; Second Lieutenant, AVni. ]\Iartin ; Orderly Sergeant, Frank
Ruth; Sergeants, A. J. ]Moses, D. ^lartin, M. Goddell; Cor-
porals, N. B. Cotfey, J. L. ^Myers, F. Hughes, H. Horton.
A Company of Mounted Rangers elected officers as follows :
Captain, B. L. Henness; First Lieutenant, Geo. C. Blanken-
ship; Second Lieutenant, F. A. Godwin; Sergeants, Jos. Cush-
man, W. J. Yeager, Henry Laws, Jas. Phillips ; Corporals, Wm.
F. Kady, Thos. Hicks, S. A. Phillips, H. A. Johnson.
On February 8 there was organized a company of minei*s
and sappers under Captain Jas. A. White; U. E. Hicks, First
Lieutenant ; McLain Chambers, Second Lieutenant ; D. J. Hub-
bard, C. White, ]\Iarcus Mc^Millan, H. G. Parsons, Sergeants,
Corporals, Isaac Lemon, Wm. Ruddell. Wm. Mengle. This
Company was organized to cut roads, build fortifications, guard
stock, etc.
Adjutant General Tilton, on March 1, issued a call for
100 more men for service under jMajor Hays, with headquarters
at Olympia, and in April a block house was built, sufficient to
accommodate the whole population, on a site now known as
Capital Park. The spot is indicated by a stone, erected by the
Daughters of the American Revolution, to mark the end of
the Oregon trail.
The Indians now seemed tiring of the unavailing struggle,
although a Peace Commission composed of M. T. Simmons and
Ed. C. Fitzhugh. appointed by the Governor to treat with the
Indians, was unable to bring about satisfactory results. But
the Indians were disbanding and the soldiers returned home,
subject to call and were finally mustered out in August. The
horses, stores, etc., were sold at public auction. An incident
which shows the characteristic integrity and regard for honor
prevalent among the pioneers is here given. An officer of
one of the volunteer Companies had captured a mule in Grand j
Ronde Valley. While in the service, he rode it home to
Olympia, and turned it in. He desired to bid it in and own
if, but the highest bid was $475 and the faithful volunteer,
impoverished by ten luonths' military' service, was unable to
meet the raise.
During the struggle stockades and block houses had been
built in Thurston County by settlers as follows: Stockade
at Cochran's, Skookumehuck; stockade, Fort Henness, Grand
THURSTON COUNTY 31
]\r()und Prairie; stockade at Goodell's, Grand ^lound Prairie;
block house. Tenalqiiot Prairie; block house, Nathan Eaton's.
Chambers Prairie; two block houses, Chambers Prairie; block
house at Ruddell's, Chambers Prairie; stockade at Bush's.
Bush Prairie; block house at Eutledge's, Bush Prairie; two
block houses in Tumwater; block house at Doffelmeyer's Point.
Forts and block houses built in Thurston County by the
Volunteers were: Block house at Skookumchuck, Fort ■Miller.
Tenalquot Plains; Fort Stevens, Yelm Prairie; block house at
liowe's. Chambers Prairie; block house and stockade at
Oh'mpia.
No stockades were built by the Federal troops in Thurs-
ton County.
The Volunteers had acquitted themselves credita])ly.
Though a sturdy type of the Western pioneer, they had sulv
jected themselves to strict discipline. All captured property
was turned over or accounted for. No case of wanton kill-
ing of Indians had been reported.
At the close of hostility the settlers justly felt that the
murderers among the Indians should be tried and subjected
to punishment. In this they were firmly supported by Gov-
ernor Stevens. In a letter to Col. Casey, the Governor asked
his assistance to this end :
''I have, therefore, to request your aid in apprehending
Leschi, Qui-ee-muth, Kitsap, Slahi and Nelson, and other mur-
derers, and to keep them in custody awaiting a warrant from
the nearest magistrate * * *.
"In conclusion I have to state that I do not believe that
eny country or any age has afforded an example of the kind-
ness and justice which has been shown towards the Indians
by the suffering inhabitants of the Sound during the recent
troubles. They have, in spite of the few cases of murder which
have occurred, shown themselves eminently law-abiding, a just
and forbearing people. They desire the murderers of the In-
dians to be punished, but they complain, and they have a
right to complain, if the Indians, whose hands are steeped
in the blood of the innocent, go unwhipped of justice."
There had arisen a question between the Governor and
llie military as to wether any promise of protection had beer,
nuide to the Indians when they delivered themselves up to
32 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Colonel Wright in Yakima, Col. Casey claiming that to attempt
to hold any on a charge of murder would be a violation of
good faith. The Governor positively controverted the assump-
tion of protection to the Indians, as he had received positive
assurance from Col. Wright that he had made no terras with
them and promised them no immnnity. The Governor, rely-
ing upon this statement made to him by Col. Wright, in the
presence of creditable witnesses, refused to receive and take
charge of a party of about 100 Sound Indians until the mur-
derers were arrested, claiming that Leschi and the others had
committed murders in time of peace, in a barbarous Avay.
when their victims were unaware of danger.
However, the accused murderers were arrested and in-
dicted and received by Col. Casey for custody at Fort Steila-
coom. whereupon the Governor took charge of the other In-
dians and returned them to their reservations. At the first
trial of Leschi the jurj^ disagreed, but at a subsequent trial he
Vv^as convicted. The case was appealed to the Supreme
Court, where the judgment of the lower court was affirmed,
and the murderer was sentenced to be hanged on January
22, 1858, at Fort Steilacoom. Petitions were circulated for
jjardon and numerous remonstrances were filed with the Gov-
ernor, but the Governor declined to interfere. Time for th<^
execution passed and Leschi still lived. A committee, ap-
jiointed by indignant citizens, inquired into the cause for de-
lay. The report of this committee disclosed interference by
the military authorities at Fort Steilacoom, and severely cen-
sured the Sheriff of Pierce County. At a session of the Su-
preme Court February 12, 1858, Leschi was re-sentenced to
hang February 19. Sheriff Hays was ordered to carry out
the order of the court. In the absence of the Sheriff, Deputy
^Mitchell went, with a posse of twelve men, to Steilacoom. where
the sentence was carried out and Leschi was made to pay tli":-
penalty of his crimes.
Yelm Jim. who had been charged with the murder of
Wm. White in March, 1856, came to trial April, 1859. He
was found guilt}^ and was sentenced to be hanged. Before
the time set for the execution arrived, however, two Indians
came to Olympia and confessed to the crime. Yelm Jim was
pardoned.
THURSTON COUNTY 33
Qui-ee-muth, Lesehi's brother, was captured near Yelm
and broug:ht to the Governor's oflfice in 01ymi)ia late at night.
The Governor stationed a guard over the Indian, with strid;
orders for protection until morning, when the prisoner would
be removed to Steilacoom. About daylight, while the guard
slept, a man burst into the room, shooting the Indian in the
arm and then stabbing him. The deed was done and the
assassin gone before the guard was thoroughly aroused. Tin-
man making the attack was not identified, and no testimony
could be found against anyone. The impression gained cred-
ence, however, that Joseph Bunting, son-in-law of McAllister,
committed the deed, thus revenging the death of McAllister.
As has been before stated, the Indians, in their hostilities
toward the settlers, were much encouraged by the Hudson
Bay Company. During the war there lived in the country
back of Steilacoom, a number of ex-employees of the Com-
pany, who had Indian wives and half breed children. It was
reported to the Governor that these men were giving aid and
comfort to the Indians. The Indians who killed White and
Northcraft in Thurston County, were tracked straight to the
houses of these men, who, when asked concerning it, admitted
the fact, but denied any knowledge of their acts.
As a precautionary measure, the Governor ordered these
men to remove either to Steilacoom, Nisqually or Olympia.
until the end of hostilities, where they would be harmless to
the interests of the settlers. Accordingly twelve of them
moved in. They had taken out their first papers and had
located donation claims. A few lawyers who had not dis-
tinguished themselves by assisting, or even been identified
with, the worthy settler in resisting the Indians, here saw -i
chance for serving their own purposes, and incited these men
to resist the Governor's order in the courts, and in the mean-
time return to their claims, which five of them did. On
learning this, the Governor ordered them arrested and turned
over to Col. Casey at Fort Steilacoom.
Then the designing lawyers sued out a writ of habeas
corpus. To forestall an effort on the part of the conspirators
to seriously impair the plans of his administration, the Gov-
ernor declared martial law on April 3. The prisoners were
brought to Olympia and incarcerated in the old block house
34 HISTORICAL SKETCH
en the public square. Judge Chenoweth, whose place it was
to hear the proceedings, plead illness, and asked Judge Lander,
whose district included Thurston County, to hear the habeas
corpus cases. Lander hastened to Steilacoom and opened court
May 7. The Governor had urged the Judge to adjourn court
until Indian troubles were over, which must necessarily be
soon, and all trouble thus averted. But Lander proceeded
to open court, whereupon Col. Shaw walked into court and
arrested the Judge and the officers of his court and brought
them to Olympia, where they were released.
Lander, being then at home, and the time for holding
court in his own district having arrived, he opened court on
the 14th, and summoned the Governor to answer contempt
proceedings. The Governor ignored the order and accordingly
United States Marshal Geo. W. Corliss proceeded to the Gov-
ernor's office to arrest him. The ]Marshal and his party, how-
ever, after failing to execute their errand, were ejected from
the office by a party composed of Major Tilton, Capt. Cain,
Jas. Doty, Q. A. Brooks, R. M. Walker, A. J. Baldwin, Lewis
Ensign, Chas. E. Weed and J. L. Mitchell.
Mounted volunteers entered the Town and Judge Lander
hearing of their approach, adjourned court, and, in company
with Elwood Evans, went to the office of the latter and locked
themselves in. Captain IMiller, with his men, approached, and
finding himself barred, remarked: "I will here add a new
letter to the alphabet, let 'er rip," and kicked in the door
and arrested the occupants of the room. Evans was re-
leased at once. Lander was held in honorable custody until
the war was over.
Much was made of this act by the enemies of Governor
Stevens to injure him and his administration. A mass meet-
ing was held in Olympia on the public square (now Capital
Park), which was presided over by Judge B. F. Yantis, J. W.
Goodell, Secretary, which heartily endorsed the course of th^
Governor in declaring martial law.
The proclamation revoking martial law was promulgated
May 24 and Lander held court in July following. The Gov-
ernor appeared in court by counsel disclaiming any disrespect
to the Court, was fined $50, which he paid, and the incident
was closed.
THURSTON COUNTY 35
At the election which occurred in July, Thurston County
elected the entire Democratic ticket, except Sheriff, which
was as follows : Councilman. J. W. Wiley ; Representatives,
B. L. Henness, C. B. Baker, J. A. Longmire, Daniel Kiper, G.
C. Blankenship. Wm. Rutledge ; Auditor. Wm. Wright ; As-
sessor, T. W. Glascow; Treasurer, G. K. AVillard; Coroner, H.
D. Morgan. Isaac Hays, on the Whig ticket, defeated Samuel
Coulter. The Democratic ticket was opposed by the Whigs
and Free Soilers.
The Puget Sound Institute, a private school, was organ-
ized this year by Rev. J. F. Dillon, a IMethodist minister, as-
sisted bj' his wife.
The end of the year 1856 found confidence restored
among the settlers, who had returned to the pursuit of their
avocations. Settlers had returned to their claims without
fear. The first threshing machine was brought into the County
and a cabinet and chair factory was opened in toAvn.
J. M. Swan platted his donation claim adjoining the
Sylvester tract, on the East side of the baj', which was
known for many years as Swantown.
The Northern Pacific Railroad Company was incorporated
by the Legislature of 1857. Under the terms of the charter
the road was to commence at one of the passes in the Rocky
Mountains between the Territories of Washington and Ne-
braska and connecting with such road passing through Min-
nesota and Nebraska as the Company might select, thence to
the Sound. The following residents of the Territorj^ were
incorporators : I. I. Stevens, C. H. Mason, E. Lander, Geo.
Gibbs, B. F. Kendall, Wm. Cock, R. M. Walker, W. W. ]\Iiller.
W. H. Wallace, Lafayette Balch, M. T. Simmons, Elwoud
Evans, A. A. Denny, David Phillips, Alex Abernethy, J. P.
Keller, Jas. Tilton, E. H. Fowler, S. D. Howe, E. C. Fitz-
hugh, Walter Crockett, L. H. Davis, C. C. Pagett, Jno. R.
Jackson, Seth Catlin, Wm. Strong, Wm. Dillon, Sumner
Barker, Wm. Kelly. Ira Patterson, H. D. Huntington, N. Os-
trander and B. B. Bishop.
The Legislature also authorized the appointing of a Board
of Commissioners with authority to build a bridge across the
Western arm of Budd's Inlet. Wm. Cock, Edwin IMarsh. W.
W. Miller, Wm. McLean, J. K. Kurd, Jos. Cnshnian, S. W.
36 HISTORICAL, SKETCH
Percival and Elwood Evans composed the Commission. The
report favored a bridg-e 1803 feet long, with a draw, at an
estimated cost of $3000.
At the March term of the Conntj' Commissioners the
election precincts of Coal Bank. Rabbeson's Prairie, Xisqually
Prairie and Miami were abandoned and the territory attached
to adjoining precincts. This was due, in a great extent, to
the depopulating of the country by the Indian War.
Notwithstanding the fact that the country showed a falling
off in population, Olympia continued to improve and a number
uf small industries were started in 1857.
The rate of taxation was 3 mills for County purposes.
1 for court, 1 for territorial, and 2 mills for school purposes.
On July 13 the annual election occurred. The opposition
to the Democrats of the year before had united under the
name of Republican. The Democrats carried the election,
losing only the School Superintendent and Prosecuting At-
torney. The following officers were elected : Representatives
W. W. Miller, Stephen Guthrie, B. F. Shaw, C. B. Baker. T. W
Glascow ; Joint Representative, W. M. Morrow ; Probate Judge.
G. K. Willard ; Assessor, J. R. Smith ; Countj^ Commissioner,
James Biles ; School Superintendent, G. F. Whitworth ; Prose
cuting Attorney, C. C. Hewitt; Coroner, C. H. Hale.
Governor Stevens was elected delegate to Congress thi*;
year, and Fayette McMullan was appointed to fill his plact
as Governor. McMullan arrived in September and was en-
thusiastically received.
A contract was awarded the Pacific Mail Steamship Com-
pany to carry the mail from San Francisco to Olympia.
The steamer Fairy, owned and operated on Puget Sound
by A. B. Rabbeson, plying between Olympia and Steilacoom
blew up when leaving the wharf at the latter place, October 15.
The year 1858 was distinguished by the Frazier River ex-
citement. Settlers in Washington and Oregon again abandoned
their claims in quest of riches, as ten years before California
had attracted them.
Olympia. being at the head of tidewater and the only
town north of the Columbia, Avas an outfitting point for the
miners.
THURSTON COUNTY 37
Wells Fargo & Co. established an office in Olynipia this
year, with T. M. Reed as agent.
The election of 1858 resnlted in the choice of the entire
Democratic ticket as follows: Councilman, W. W. ]\Iiller;
Representatives, E. Sylvester, B. L. Henness, Wm. Rntledge
J. M. Hawk, Jas. Longmire, Oliver Shead; Prosecuting At-
torney, B. P. Anderson ; County Commissioner, Jas. Cornell ;
Treasurer, G. K. Willard ; Auditor, Richard Lane ; Sheriff.
G. C. Blankenship ; Assessor, Wm. ]\Iartin ; Coroner, A. J.
Baldwin.
As early as 1858 the matter of a transcontinental railroad
began to be actively agitated. A meeting was held in Masonic
Hall, September 29th, and Congress urged to make a land
grant to the Northern Pacific Railroad. At this meeting
Elwood Evans presided.
Fruit growing as an industry began to attract attention
and two nurseries were established in the County.
A postal agent visited 01.ympia in the fall of this year and
arranged for the mail steamer Constitution leaving on Monday
instead of Friday. Connections were made at San Francisco
by which overland mail reached Olympia from St. Louis in
24 days.
In May of 1859 the Commissioners called a special election
to vote a 4-mill tax to build a new Courthouse. It was ho])ed
to derive a revenue of $5,000, $2,500 to be applied to existing
indebtedness. The proposition was decidedly defeated.
At the election in July the Democrats and Republicans
had tickets in the field, the former being successful. For
Councilman, Jas. Biles ; Representatives, B. L. Henness, G. K
Willard, Oliver Shead, A. S. Yantis, Chas. E. Weed, Levi
Shelton ; County Commissioner, A. J. Chambers ; Assessor.
Jno. Chambers.
Secretary C. H. IMason died in July of this year, at tlif
age of 29. He was universally loved and respected.
Immigration into Thurston County received a decided
impetus at this time and resulted in much encouraging tlic
earlier settlers.
In October General Winfield Scott visited Olympia. iu'
having come to the Northwest in connection with the inter-
national boundary question.
260140
38 HISTORICAL SKETCH
At the session of the legislature this year a bill was intro-
dneed removing the Capitol from Olympia to Vancouver, which
passed the house by a vote of 19 to 9, but met defeat in the
Council by one vote.
In the winter of this 3'ear, as a result of frequent fires,
the first steps toward protection were taken by the organiza-
tion of the Alert Hook and Ladder Company — Foreman, C. E.
Williams ; 1st Assistant, J. L. Head ; 2d Assistant, H. D. Mor-
gan ; President, T. M. Reed ; Secretary, A. J. ]\Ioses ; Treasurer.
W. G. Dunlap.
The Puget Sound University was chartered this year, with
the following officers : D. R. Bigelow, Chancellor ; Gr. A. Barnes
Vice President; Rev. B. C. Lippincott, President and General
Agent.
The town of Olympia was incorporated January 29, 1859.
the election to be held in April following. The Act designated
G. A. Barnes, T. F. McElroy, Jas. Tilton, Jos. Cushman and
Elwood Evans as Trustees. Jos. Cushman was elected Presi-
dent of the Board.
At the April election U. G. Warbass, Geo. A. Barnes
Edwin Marsh, W. D. Dunlap and Isaac Lightner were elected
Trustees. Geo. A. Barnes was elected President and Richard
Lane Clerk of the Board. Dr. Warbass declined to serve and
Elwood Evans was appointed.
Contracts w^ere let for cisterns at the intersections of
Second, Third and Fourth Streets with Main Street. The old
blockhouse on the square was fitted up for a jail.
A reaction from the good times of the previous years was
experienced in 1860. The war cloud was looming large in
the East, and helped to a degree the depression. The Capitol re-
moval w^as again agitated in every County, which, together
with a heavy assessment, on the previous year's boom valua-
tions, did not help to relieve the feeling of discouragement.
William Wright resigning as County Treasurer, T. F.
3IcElroy was appointed to fill the vacancy.
At this time Olympia w^as served by four religious de-
nominations : Methodist, Presbyterian, Catholic and Epis-
copalian.
At the election this year the realignment in political parties
began, as a result of the war issues, though the Democrats
THURSTON COUNTY 39
elected most of their ticket. The following County officers
were elected for the ensuing year: Representatives, D. L.
Phillips, B. F. Ruth, B. L. Henness, U. G. Warbass, Gilmorc
Hays and C. H. Hale; Sheriff, AVm. Billings; School Superiti-
tendent, R. i\I. Walker ; Auditor, Richard Lane ; Treasurer.
Wm. Wright; Commissioner, S. S. Ford; Probate Judge, R. ^I.
Walker; Assessor, A. W. Sargent.
At the legislative session this year steps were taken
toward the erection of a capitol building. A Commissioner
was appointed and bids called for. The matter went by de-
fault, however, as no satisfactory bids were received.
The Federal census of this year showed a population of
1489 for Thurston County — 967 males, 522 females. Real prop-
erty valuation was $942,990; personal, $586,710.
Henry Winsor was awarded a daily mail contract between
Olympia and Montieello.
The Washington Standard was this year started by John
Miller Murphy as a Republican paper and the Pioneer and
Democrat was sold by Wiiey & Furste to James Lodge.
Swantown was connected with the main town by a foot-
bridge early this year.
The following Town Board Avas elected in 1860: G. A.
Barnes. Elwood Evans, W. G. Dunlap, Isaac Lightner, Edwin
Marsh. Wm. Billings was elected Marshal and D. R. Bigelow,
Police Judge.
When the legislature of 1860-61 convened it was quite
apparent that Portland, Oregon, w^as taking part in Washing-
ton Territory's Capital fight, in her own interests. Under the
great influence brought to bear the bill for removal to Van-
couver passed both houses and was approved. However, it
Avas discovered, after adjournment of the legislature, that the
bill had no enacting clause, and, as enrolled, bore no date.
At a session of the Supreme Court at Olympia, a plea as to the
jurisdietion of the Court, in one case, w^as entered. This
brought the question squarely before the Court. The plea was
(■verruled, and Olympia has since remained the Capital.
The legislature attached the south part of Thurston County
to Lewis County.
In July the question of Capital location was submitted
to the people with the following result : Whole number of
40 HISTORICAL SKETCH
votes cast 2315, of which Olympia received 1239, Vancouver
639, Steilacoom 253. Scattering votes went to Port Townsend,
Walla Walla and Seattle.
In 1861 the people of Tnmwater offered, as a bonus for
the location of the County seat at Tumwater, a considerable
amount in lumber, shingles, labor and land. C. Crosby and
wife filed with the Commissioners a bond in the sum of $-4000.
conditioned on the delivery of a deed for four blocks of land.
At the same session Olympia offered to donate the public
square to the County on condition that the County seat remain
undisturbed.
The matter being submitted to the people at the annual
election following, Olympia received 344, Tumwater 104, West
Olympia 4. Upon a delivery of a conveyance of the public
square to the County a call was made for bids for 200,000
bricks, wnth which to build a jail.
By the attaching of a portion of Thurston County to
Lewds, Commissioner Biles was disqualified from acting, though
by failure of his successor to qualify^ Mr. Biles presided at the
next meeting of the Board, fixing a rate of 7 mills for school,
court and Territorial purpose.s.
The legislature of 1861 had extended the terms of County
officers to two years, hence only Representatives to the legis-
lature and County Commissioners were elected this year.
B. F. Ruth. A. S. Yantis, Wm. Cock and Wm. ]\IcLain
were elected Representatives. G. W. ^Miller and G. W. French
were elected Commissioners.
In the Summer of 1861 A. M. Poe established the Overland
Press in Olympia.
Rev. B. C. Lippincott this year assumed charge of the
public school in Olympia.
At the Spring election Elwood Evans, T. M. Reed, B.
Harned, A. Frankee and S. W. Percival were elected Trustees
R. Lane was chosen Clerk. Wm. Billings, Marshal, and W. G.
Dunlap, Magistrate.
Upon the abandonment of the military post at Steilacoom.
Avhich occurred this year, some uneasiness was felt due to the
prevalent idea that the absence of troops might encourage
the Indians ^o resume hostilities. But the vear closed with
THOMAS OTCHIN
THURSTON COUNTY 41
bright prospects for the Count}'. Of 53 postoffiees in the
'J'erritory, Thurston County had nine.
Early in 1862 the erection of a Courthouse was agitated.
During the discussion of the matter it was discovered that
the County had no title to the public square, which it had
been reserving for County purposes. It will be recalled that
a few years previously, after Tumwater had offered a bonus
for the location of the County seat there, that Olympia made
a deed to the County for the public square (bounded by Sixth.
Seventh, Main and Washington Streets). Later it was found
that Edmund Sylvester had donated this to the city for park
purposes exclusively, hence the conveyance by the city to the
County was invalid.
At the May term of the Commissioners this year they
purchased property on the northeast corner of Union and
Washington streets, which had formerly been used for school
purposes, and awarded a contract to B. Harned to fit up the
building for courthouse purposes.
F. M. Sargent resigned as County Treasurer and S. W.
Percival was appointed to fill the vacancy.
The election this year resulted in the choice of the follow-
ing : Joint Councilman, 0. B. IMcFadden ; Representatives,
Wm. McLain, T. Hunt, II. Kandle, Jas. Longmire ; Sheriff.
R. W. Moxlie ; Auditor, A. W. Moore ; Treasurer, S. W. Perci-
val ; Surveyor, Edwin Marsh ; Attorney, B. F. Dennison ; Com-
missioner, S. D. Ruddell.
News of the death of Isaac I. Stevens, who was shot in
the battle of Chantilly on September 1, was received in Olympia
October 18. Proper memorial services were held here.
Up to October of this year $2,210.08 had been raised in
Thurston County to aid the F'ederal cause.
In 1862 B. F. Kendall, a man of marked ability, though
combative and vindictive, had become publisher of the Over-
lend Press. In a December issue he charged a man named
Horace Howe with burning the buildings of the Puget Sound
Agricultural Company, in Lewis County. Later Howe met
Kendall at the corner of Main and Third Streets, Olympia, and
during a controversy struck Kendall with a switch he wai;
holding. Kendall ran, Howe following, for a short distance,
then turned and fired four shots at his pursuer, one entering
42 HISTORICAL SKETCH
the left side of Howe, which proved a serious but not fatal
wound. Kendall's version, as published in his own paper, gave
offense to Howe's friends, and on January 8, 1863, Howe's son
entered Kendall's office and asked to see him privately. The
two retired to an adjoining room, when a pistol shot was heard
and Howe came from the room saying. "I shot him in self
defense." The young man was put under bail for his appear-
ance for trial, but he later disappeared. The case was dis-
missed, when some time afterward the news of Howie's death
reached Olympia. The pistol used by the assassin was one be-
longing to a prominent Territorial official, which gave some
color to the belief at the time that Kendall was the victim of
& plot among political enemies.
Town Council elected this year: G. A. Barnes, Jos. Cush-
man. Jas. Tilton, C. E. Williams, W. G. Dunlap. R. Lane,
Clerk; H. M. McGee, Magistrate; W. B. Gosnell, Marshal.
Dunlap died soon after election and David Phillips succeeded
him.
Logging had begun to be engaged in cjuite extensively in
and about Olympia, the output finding ready market at good
prices.
In 1863, being an off year, only a Legislative ticket, a
Commissioner and Probate Judge were elected. The Unionists
defeated the Democrats, with the following result : Repre
sentatives, C. Crosby, H. D. i\IcGee, Wm. McLain ; Commission-
er, Joseph Gibson ; Probate Judge, F. M. Sargent.
At the Town election Jos. Cushman, C. E. Williams, B.
Harned, S. Holmes and Wm. I\Iitchell were elected Trustees;
R. Lane, Clerk ; F. M. Sargent, IMagistrate, and John Sealy.
Marshal. W. J. Yeager succeeded the latter later.
The Fall of 1863 John Paul Judson was elected teacher of
the public school and was authorized to collect from the
scholars, or parents, a sum sufficient to make his salary $80
per month and for an assistant at $120 per cpiarter, in addition
to the $50 allowed by law. The only examination to which
teachers were submitted at this time was that made by a com-
mittee of the Town Board.
The year 186-1 was one of unusual ([uiet, little transpiring
of sufficient importance to chronicle
THURSTON COUNTY 43
A tri-weekly mail contract direct to Portland was awarded
Henry Winsor.
At the election Republicans and Democrats placed tickets
in the field. The result was a victory for the Republicans,
losing only their candidate for Auditor. Representatives, C.
Crosby, S. D. Ruddle, F. M. Rhodes; Sheriff, J. H. Kellett;
Commissioner, J. Dunlaj); Auditor, R. Lane; Treasurer, S. \V.
Percival.
The Fourth of July was enthusiastically celebrated this
year, at the close of which a Lincoln and Johnson Club was
organized, and notwithstanding the fact that the people had no
vote for choice of President, the political interest was intense.
A slight flurry was occasioned the latter part of 1864 by
the report that gold had been discovered in the Nachez Pass,
about 70 miles from Olympia. This little community furnished
its quota of gold-seekers, who soon returned to their homes
disappointed.
Town officers elected : Trustees. L. D. Durgin, Jesse Chap-
man, H. M. McGill, A. J. Brown, Edward Giddings ; Clerk, R.
Lane ; Treasurer, Jesse Chapman ; ^larshal, J. L. Head ; I\Iagis-
trate, F. M. Sargent.
The first Sunday closing ordinance was passed by this
Board.
The Committee on Streets was instructed to build a reser-
voir about a spring on the northeast corner of Main and Fourth
streets and establish a pump for the convenience of the general
public. This spring, which furnished pure and cold water had
long been a village institution, and this corner a gathering
place in the evening when alike politics and village gossip
were discussed.
On Sunday evening, September 4, 1864, the telegraph was
completed to Olympia. The following congratulatory dispatch
was sent by the Territorial executive to President Lincoln. It
and its reply were the first messages sent between this Terri-
tory and the National Capital :
AVashington Territory, Executive Office,
Olympia, Sept. 5, 1854.
To His Excellency Abraham Lincoln, President of the LTnited
States :
Washington Territory this day sends her first telegraphic
44 HISTORICAL SKETCIJ
dispatch greeting yourself, Washington City and the whole
United States, with our sincere prayers to Almighty God that
his richest blessings, both spiritual and temporal, may rest
upon and perpetuate the Union of our beloved country, that
His own omnipotent power may bless, protect and defend the
President of the United States, our brave army and gallant
navy, our Congress, and every department of the National
government.
For and on behalf of Washington Territory.
WILLIAM PICKERING,
Governor.
(Reply)
Washington, D. C, Sept. 6, 1864.
Gov. Pickering, Olympia, W. T. :
Your patriotic dispatch of yesterday received and will be
published. * ' A. LINCOLN.
For the first term of school contract was made this year
with J. P. Judson ; for the two succeeding terms with D. J.
Hubbard as principal.
Olympia celebrated with great patriotic fervor the news
which reached the West of the success of the Union armies.
The news of Lincoln's assassination was received here, as else-
where throughout the United States, with sincere grief.
In the Summer of 1865 the wagon road across the Cascade
IMountains was completed. This had long been a dream of the
jjioneers on both sides of the mountains. Thurston County had
contributed $800 toward the project and every means was
resorted to to help the project. Even the ladies of Olympia had
put their hands to the wheel, and on July 4 gave a Calico Ball,
turning the proceeds, $120, over to the road project.
At the election this year Thurston County polled 362 votes,
Denny (Republican) for delegate to Congress, receiving 220
votes, and Tilton (Democrat) 142.
The entire Republican County ticket was elected as follows:
Councilman, S. S. Ford ; Representatives, Wm. McLain, G. W.
Miller, S. D. Ruddell ; Commissioners, A. Tilley, W. S. Parsons ;
School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow ; Coroner, Robert Frost.
Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the National House of Repre-
sentatives, visited the Sound in July of this year and addressed
the people of Olympia.
THURSTON COUNTY 45
The close of the war found the business affairs of the
Sound region in good condition. Demand for lumber was actiw
iit good prices.
Up to this time the male population had far exceeded
the female in number. In view of this fact A. S. INIercer con-
ceived the idea of chartering a vessel and bringing to the Sound
a large number of women. On receiving notice from ]\Iercer
that the ship Continental was soon to leave Boston, with a large
passenger list, Olympia appointed a committee, consisting of
Elwood Evans and wife, D. R. Bigelow and wife, T. F. ^IcElroy
and wife, T. ]\I. Reed and wife, Francis Henry and wife, George
Barnes and wife, James Biles and wife, Henry Winsor and wife,
to receive and provide for the newcomers. Homes in the
County were found for 80, of the 300 that arrived.
Panic struck the lumber industry, owing to a decision of
a California Court that the export of lumber and spars cut
from U. S. lands must be taxed $2.50 per M.
Tax levy this year: Four mills for County, 2 for School and
2y2 mills for road purposes.
Owing to a lack of funds no public schools opened this
year. For the purpose of running a private school, IMisses
Giddings and Slocum leased the school house.
Town Trustees elected this year: Chas. Weed, U. E. Hicks,
J. R. Wood, B. F. Yantis, Robt. Frost. U. E. Hicks was elected
Treasurer; R. Lane, Clerk; W. J. Yeager, ]\Iarshal.
This Board levied a tax for school purposes of IV) mills
and purchased a hand fire engine.
Three tickets were put in the field at the election in 1866.
The split in the Republican party was due to the disaffection
between President Johnson and Congress.
Change in the Republican party resulted in the election
of the Democratic ticket with the exception of Henness for
Sheriff. The following County officers were elected: Repre-
sentatives, Jas. Longmire, B. F. Ruth, F. Henry; Sheriff, J. H.
Kellett; Auditor, P. F. Turpin ; Probate Judge, C. P. Judson ;
Treasurer, I. Lightner; Commissioner, R. Waddell.
The faithful old town pump gave away to a water system
that was installed this year.
The County Commissioners appropriated $800 toward the
Swantown bridge, and provided bounties for the following
46 HISTORICAL SKETCH
animals: AVildcat $1, Coyote $2.50, Wolf $4, Cougar $5, grown
Bear $2, Cub $1.
S. S. Ford, Sr., who was a joint Councilman with Lewis
County, died this year. In the election to fill the vacancy Wm.
H. Mitchell defeated Geo. A. Barnes by 23 votes.
On December 20, 1866, the stores at the lower end of Main
Street, were flooded by the highest tide that had been known
up to that time.
Columbia Fire Engine Company was organized this year
and formally took possession of the new hand engine. A. J.
Baldwin was foreman.
Town Trustees elected this year: Geo. A. Barnes, T. M.
Reed, Isaac Lightner, B. Harned, A. J. Baldwin. T. M. Reed
was elected Treasurer and Richard Lane, Clerk.
L. P. Venen was this year elected principal of the district
school.
An exciting County election occurred in 1861 and resulted
in the selection of the following officers : Wm. McLane,
Councilman ; F. Henry, Ira Ward and J. E. Baker, Representa-
tives ; J. H. Kellett, Sheriff ; A. W. Cairnes, J. M. Shotwell and
Jas. Dunlap, Commissioners; P. Turpin, Auditor; I. Lightner^
Treasurer; D. R. Bigelow, Probate Judge and School Superin-
tendent.
Jas. Longmire contested the election of McLane for the
Council, which was again referred to the people, and Islr. Long-
mire lost.
In November of this year E. T. Gunn and J. N. Gale, com-
menced the publication of the Olympia Transcript, as a Re-
publican paper, the Washington Standard having been drawn
into the Democratic field during the political evolutions now
taking place. The Pacific Tribune was also established by
Chas. Prosch & Sons.
The Town Trustees serving this year were : F. Henrj',
G. A. Barnes, Albert Robb, J. G. Parker, J. M. Hawk.
On November 15 occurred the death of M. T. Simmons,
who lived in Lewis County. His death was mourned as a great
loss. He had been identified with the history of the Sound
country from the first, and was highly regarded as an upright
citizen.
THURSTON COUNTY 47
A contract was awarded to E. L. Finch to build a new
Swantown bridge.
Coal Bank precinct was re-created this year, the population
of the southeast corner of the County having increased to
justify it.
The session of the Legislature of 1868 was a most acri-
monious one. Personal altercations within and without the
legislative halls made a very lively town out of the Capital.
then a village of 500. So bitter was the feeling that personal
encounters were frequent in the saloons and about the town
of Olympia.
The Marshville bridge to the Westside was completed
this year.
L. P. Venen was elected principal of the district school,
assisted by I\Iisses Slocum and ]\Iary O'Neal as assistants.
Town Trustees were elected to serve for the year as fol-
lows: G. K. Barnes, Wm. Mitchell, C. E. Williams, Benj.
Hamed, C. H. Hale. Richard Lane was elected Clerk and Mr.
Williams, Treasurer.
The County Commissioners this year discovered that they
were being systematically robbed by the wily Indians, who
were taking animal scalps wherever they might be found and
cashing in over Thurston County's counter. The practice was
stopped by rigid regulations.
At the August term the County Commissioners ordered the
Auditor to advertise for bids for a two-story jail.
The historical old blockhouse on the corner of the public
square was razed this year and the lumber in it put upon the
streets.
At the organization of the Territory there was established
at Olympia as the Capital a Territorial library, for which Con-
gress had made an appropriation. But the first town library
was established in 1869. On January 1, 1869, D. B. Finch, a
wealthy steamboat man, commanding the old Eliza Anderson,
running between Olympia and Victoria, donated to the Lodge
of Good Templars of this city what was then known as the
Olympic building on the site now occupied by the K. of P. hall,
on condition that the Lodge w^ould maintain a library and free
reading room. The conditions were complied with and the first
town library opened July 19th. The first librarian to take
48 HISTORICAL SKETCH
charge was John B. Allen, a young attorney just from
]\Iinnesota, who was one of the first U. S. Senators from the
State of "Washington. IMr. Allen, telling his early experiences,
related that the Lodge, having defaulted in part of his salary,
he was given an old silver watch, in lieu thereof. In a trip
down the hay later Mr. Allen met with an accident and the old
watch went to the bottom of Budd's Inlet. Thus, the librarian
was illy recompensed for his labors.
As an indication of real estate values it might be stated
that in February. 1869, C. J. Allen sold five acres of land adjoin-
ing the Capital grounds for .^5000. This is now known as the
^Tottman addition.
Early this year Wm. Billings took the contract to build a
timV)er jail 16x20. two cells, on the County property. Union
(Mid Washington. Streets.
In iVugust 1869 Rabbeson & Clark were awarded a contract
to build a Town Hall on Fourth Street, between Washington
and Franklin. The building was completed November 26, and
dedicated by ball and supper. The ground floor rooms were
occupied for municipal purposes, while a hall, with ante room
above, was utilized for many years as ball room, theater, etc.
With other relics of the past the Town Hall, so familiar to the
"old timer," is no more, as such, but has passed into private
hands, and was recently torn down.
In the Spring of 1869 the Columbia River and Puget Sound
Railroad Company desired a terminus on Puget Sound. A com-
mittee, composed of 0. B. McFadden, C. H. Hale, Joseph Cush-
man, S. D. Howe, James Biles, G. AV. French, H. Hartley,
Clanrick Crosby, A. J. Chambers, W. H. Mitchell, C. C. Hewitt,
P. D. Moore and J. H. Cleale w^ere appointed to solicit for
donations of land to induce the company to locate its terminus
on Budd's Inlet.
Society at the Capital city was revolutionized after the
inauguration of President Grant. As many of the inhabitants
of the small community were Federal employes, the new ap-
pointments made many changes.
At the County election in 1869 the full Republican ticket
was elected, as follows : Councilman, J. Scammons ; Representa-
tives, L. A. Treen, W. Packwood; Commissioners, G. A. Barnes,
C. Crosby, S. Hodgdon; Sheriff, Wm. Billings; Treasurer, B.
THURSTON COUNTY 49
Bettman; Auditor, A. A. Philips; Probate Judge, D. R. Bigelow ;
School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow; Surveyor, F. W. Brown;
Coroner, C. Wood.
Thurston County had increased her assessed valuati3n in
the last year by $123,267 and was $911,129.
The Commissioners appropriated $1000 for a bridge across
the inlet to Tumwater. This amaunt was increased by private
subscription to $326G.
The grovv'th of the town now made an imperative demand
for a definite location of streets and the Council so ordered.
Cattle were restrained from running at large and a tax of $2.50
was put upon each dog.
There was considerable building activity this year and saw
mills were kept busy meeting the demand.
The first bank building to be erected in the Territory of
Washington was commenced this year by G. A. Barnes, who
for several years conducted a banking business here.
The Town Trustees this year were G. A. Barnes, F. Henry,
S. W. Percival, H. Frost, J. M. Murphy ; S. W. Percival Treas-
urer; R. Lane, Clerk.
Jacob Hoover was principal of the public school this year,
assisted by Jlary O'Neil. ^Ir. Hoover later practiced law, an 1
became a wealthy capitalist of Spokane.
The Federal census of 1870 showed a populati -n of 1203
for Olympia and 2246 in the County. Tumwater contained 206.
By way of comparison it may here be stated that at this time
Seattle contained 1142, with 2164 inhabitants in King County.
Olympia had a public school of 75 pupils, taught by two
teachers; fully 75 more pupils were taug'it in private schools.
March 1, 1870, the town paid the County $1333 for the
public square, which the town had deeded to the County in the
early days, when the County seat question was agitated. Al-
though the deed then given was invalid this settlement was
reached, and the amount paid to assist the County in building
a Courthouse at the corner of Washington and Sixth Streets.
At the Town election in April the following Trustees were
elected: F. Henry, A. A. Phillips, B. Bettman, C. C. Hewitt,
Levi Shelton.
At the County election the following were chosen : Council-
man, L. P. Smith ; Representatives, D. R. Bigelow, B. L.
50 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Brewer, ^Campbell ; Sheriff, \Ym. Billings ; Auditor, A. A. Phil-
lips; Commissioners, Wm. McLane, Ira Ward, Wm. James;
Treasurer, L. G. Abbott; Assessor, W. M. "White; Probate
Judge, A. R. Elder; School Superintendent, D. R. Bigelow.
C. Etheridge this year commenced operating a sash and
door factory between Second and Third streets, near the
West end of Swantown bridge.
The prospects of the location of the Northern Pacific
Railroad terminus at Olympia was the cause of considerable
real estate activity in 1870. In April T. I. McKenny and Geo.
Barnes platted the town site of Puget City, this County.
Later the plat was vacated.
C. B. Mann was chosen principal of the district school
this year.
A franchise was granted to the Washington Water Pipe
Manufacturing Company to lay pipe and supply the inhabi-
tants with water.
Wm. H. Cushman was elected Town Clerk to fill a vacancy.
The Barnes Hook & Ladder Company w^as organized to
supplement the Fire Company.
In September of this year, Olympia and vicinity was
visited by the most violent earthquake ever experienced here
before or since. The fact that the prevailing style of archi-
tecture was one and two-story frame buildings saved immense
damage.
This year the citizens of Olympia experienced their first
disappointment relative to the location of the Northern Pa-
cific terminus, which it was now reported would be located
on the Columbia River. A committee, headed by E. P. Ferry,
was appointed to confer with the railroad officials as to the
best terms on which railroad connection could be had at
Olympia. Little wa,s gained by the conference.
In December, 1870, Marshall Blinn, C. H. Hale, A. J.
Miller, James Pattison, E. Marsh, G. A. Barnes, W. H. Mitchell,
C. Crosby, J. M. Murphy and E. P. Ferry organized a Com-
pany with a capital of $400,000 capital to construct a branch
of the Northern Pacific Railroad. It petitioned for 1337 acres
of the mud flats conditioned that the Des Chutes channel
should be opened. It was the intention to obtain possession
of these and offer them to the Northern Pacific Railroad Com-
Thurston county 51
pany ou condition that their terminus be located on Budd's
Inlet, but the petition did not receive favorable action by
Congress.
In 1871 the location of the Northern Pacific Railroad ter-
minus was the paramount question.
The Northern Pacific Railroad Company had been ap-
prised of the effort to secure the tide lands and present them
to the Railroad Company. General Sprague of the Company
replied by sending blanks necessary for making the donation
The Branch Railroad Company recommended that the citi-
zen property owners on Budd's Inlet donate one-half their
holdings to the Northern Pacific on condition that it would
build and operate a railroad into Olympia before January 1,
1875, and locate the road before May 1, 1872. This most re-
markable proposition did not meet with great favor with all
classes, many feeling that if the Company desired to come
here they would come anyway; if not. no reasonable bonus-
would be an inducement.
Railroad contractors were working during the Summer
in the Cowlitz Valley, and expected to have 25 miles built
from Kalama by October 2, and connection made with the
Sound by 1872.
By November, 1871, the road was within 15 miles of
Olympia, and still the matter of terminus was an uncertainty.
On Christmas day Olympia citizens experienced great relief
when a communication was received over the signatures of
Goodwin and Sprague by Marshal Blinn accepting the propo-
sition of the Branch Railroad Company, stating that the
Northern Pacific Company would comply with the first con-
dition by causing a railroad to be located before May 1 next,
connecting the Columbia river with a point on the navigable
waters of Budd's Inlet. They also asked a right of way from
Bush Prairie. This seemed to the expectant citizens of Olym-
pia that Budd's Inlet was to be the Western terminus of the
Northern Pacific Railroad. To many then living this seemed
a realization of their fondest hopes which they had enter-
tained since they emigrated here in the early '50 's. Their
real estate holdings were to assume a value that meant to
them a competence. And, indeed, on this vague promise real
estate did go to fabulous values, but little changed hands.
52 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Building in and about Olympia was reasonably active,
and consideraUle progress was made along the line of general
improvement. At Tumwater D. Barnhart had installed a
lurnitiire factory, and Leonard & Cooper were also operating
a sash and door factory at the same place. To add to the
general tension of expectancy, the usual report of discovery
of gold in the Black Hills became current.
In December, Geo. A. Barnes, Ben Harned and A. H,
Stelle were elected School Directors. N. Crosby Clerk.
A farmers' organization was effected this year for the
purpose of the advancement of agricultural interests, though
it was short lived.
On the death of Wm. James, County Commissioner, G.
W. French was chosen to fill the vacancy.
In this year Mrs. Case and Miss Churchill, two Eastern
ladies, leased the old Court House on Union and Washington
Streets and started a Young Ladies' Seminary.
During the Summer of 1871, a newspaper plant was
brought from Port Townsend and the Puget Sound Courier
was started. This was the organ of the Federal officeholders.
Town Trustees this year: F. Henry, S. W. Percival, John
M. Murphy, A. H. Steele.
Mr. Boynton, assisted by Miss Mary O'Xeil and Mary
Post taught the public school.
Owing to the still prevailing hope that Olympia would be
a railroad terminus, the year 1872 opened up with much ac-
tivity. Streets and bridges were improved, a fire alarm sys-
tem installed ; while building was active rents were very high.
The fact that a man named Ira Bradley Thomas was in
Olympia buying up land seemed significant. In fact, he had
secured title to several thousand acres on the East side of the
inlet. While still in pursuit of his business he died suddenly
In this year occurred the revolt against the so-calletl
Federal ring. Selucius Garfield, a man of splendid ability and
a magnificent orator, on the Republican ticket, was defeated
for Delegate to Congress by 0. B. McFadden, on the Peoples'
ticket.
The full People's Party County ticket was elected as fol-
lows: Councilman, Wm. McLain ; Representatives, B. F. Yan-
tis, Ira Ward, Frank Henry; Auditor, A. A. Phillips; Sheriff,
THURSTON COUNTY 53
Wm. Billings; Treasurer, W. J. Grainger; Surveyor, D. S.
B. Kenry; School Superintendent, C. A. Huntington; Pro-
bate Judge, J. M. Lowe; Coroner, I. V. Mossman.
A vote on the question for a State Constitution was de-
feated. 54 to 141.
The Burmeister building, on Third and Main, was built
this year.
At the municipal election the following officers were
elected: Mayor, W. W. Miller; Councilmen — First Ward, A.
J. Burr, B. Bettman ; Second Ward, M. Blinn, T. F. McElroy ,
Third Ward, J. S. Dobbins, D. S. B. Henry; A. A. Phillips,
Clerk ; E. W. Eyerson, Treasurer ; A. E. Elder, Magistrate ;
J. J. Westbrook, Marshal.
On December 14th, of this year, Olympia and vicinity v/as
visited bj' a severe earthquake, resulting in little actual
damage.
As the year 1872 drew to a close it became evident, even
to the most sanguine, that the Northern Pacific Eailroad Com-
pany was not going to keep faith with Olympia, but proposed
to locate the terminus of its road at a point lower down on
the Sound. As the time had arrived for some evidence of good
faith. Marshal Blinn wrote to ]\Iessrs. Goodwin and Sprague,
asking when the line would be located. They replied: "The
line of railroad runs to the East side of Budd's Inlet to the
Billings or Wylie donation claim, sections 25, 26, 35, 36, town-
ship 19, range 2 West, and a point will be selected on one of
these claims for a freight and passenger depot, where said
line will terminate."
This restored confidence for a time until it was evident
the road was being continued through Yelm toward Tacoma
The following statement may serve to throw some light
on the inside history of the location of the terminus of the
first transcontinental line to reach the Northwest.
Included in the directorate of the Northern Pacific Eail-
road Company were men who composed the Lake Superior
and Puget Sound Land Company. They were suff'iciently
strong in the railroad company to dictate its policy. The
railroad company was not interested in town sites ; the land
company was — ^so they had sent a man West to secure title
to lands at the prospective terminus. That man was Ira
54 HISTORICAL SKETCH
Bradley Thomas, before ineuti;.ned. After havinj? secured
title to large tracts on Budd's Inlet he died. Thus, consid-
ering the time that would be consumed in probating the
estate of i\Ir. Thomas, with the law's delays, this land was
withdrawn from the market indefinitely. Time was all in all.
The result was that in order to realize their financial expecta-
tions the Lake Superior & Puget Sound Land Company se-
cured lands a few miles from Old Tacoma, and went into the
Northern Pacific directorate! and located the terminus of the
Northern Pacific Railroad.
On what seeming insignificant circumstances do great
things depend. Had Ira Bradley Thomas lived but even a
short time longer, in all probability Olympia would have been
the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad, and the site
of the present City of Tacoma still a wilderness.
*******
Thus, briefly sketched, is the history of Thurston County.
First, as a part of the Territory of Oregon, and later an
integral part of the fast-growing Territory of Washington.
It was the intention of the compiler of this volume to trace
merely the pioneer history of the County. The line of demark-
ation between early history and the later was arbitrarily fixed
by the Society of Thurston Countj^ Pioneers, which made eligi-
ble those who had taken up residence in the County before
1872. Though the people who came to Washington Territory
in the early 70 's seem as "Che Chacos" to the pioneers of
'49 or '50, yet the line as fixed by the Society seems a con-
servative placing of time to mark the difference between old
and new. The laying of the foundation, by a few sturdy
pioneers, of a great commonw^ealth to be, who, after a life full
of privation and hardship, were laid to rest in the soil of the
new country, giving way to a young and sturdy race of new
comers, no longer "pioneers" but "early settlers," until the
year 1872 arrived, which closed the door, and all later ar-
rivals must fall under the head of "Che Chacos."
From 1873 to 1889, that period during w^hich Washington
remained a Territory, Olympia and Thurston County made slow
progress. The location of a railroad terminus at Tacoma de-
tracted greatly from the head of the Sound. Seattle made a
THURSTON COUNTY 55
start and has experienced a phenomenal growth, which in a
way, too, affected Olympia.
However, since admission of the Territory as a State in
1889, Olympia and Thurston County has experienced a steady
improvement. The ability to command some attention in Con-
gress, has resulted in appropriations for the improvement of
the harbor, which has alwaj's been a deterring influence.
Notwithstanding frequent attempts to move the Capitol, it
seems at last a fixture, the State's investments here preclud-
ing the possibility of a change. But what is of greater im-
portance, the difficulties of transportation in and out of
Olympia have to a great extent been, or are being, overcome.
The Northern Pacific, after years of neglect, saw a territory
in the Southwest that could no longer be ignored and the
Tacoma and Grays Harbor branch of that road resulted. At
this writing the Oregon & AYashington Railway is making
preparations to connect the Capital City with their line, with
further possibilities of transcontinental connection in the near
future.
Substantial fireproof buildings are taking the place of
the old frames, paved streets are being actively extended and
a spirit of enterprise has been the result of the advent of the
new blood that is to take up the fight where the pioneer, after
a hard fought battle, for which his successors delight to honor
his memorv, laid down his burden and entered into his rest.
56 THURSTON COUNTY
Qtmmannns
ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS
Isaac I. Stevens, the first Governor, as well as the m:)s:
prominent man identified w^ith the early history of Washing-
ton, was born in a farm house belonging to his father, Isaac
Stevens, at ^Marble Ridge, Massachusetts. He first saw the
light of day March 25, 1818, and sprang from an honorable
line of ancestry, one of whom, John Stevens, was among the
original founders of Andover, Essex County, jMassachusetts.
Even from tender infancy the little Isaac gave promise of
more than ordinary mentality. Before his fifth year t'le lad
was sent to school and soon astonished his teacher with his
remarkable power of memory and his application and devotion
to study. After his tenth year he attended Franklin Academy'
in North Andover, where he studied t'.ie usual English branches.
But about this time Isaac decided to leave school for a time to
enter the woolen mills owned by his uncle near Andover. At
the end of a year spent in the weaving room he became so
proficient in his work that he was able to manage four looms
at a time, thus excelling the most experienced workmen in that
department of the factory.
Having reached the age of fifteen years the young Stevens
entered Phillips Academy in Andover. Here, while leading
his classes in his studies, he paid for his board and lodging
by making the garden and doing the chores about the place
of a citizen of that town.
One of his school mates in describing Stevens' first ap-
pearance at the academy said: "The door opened and there
({uietly entered an insignificant appearing boy carrying in his
arms a load of books nearly as large as himself. But the im-
pression of insigiiificance vanished as soon as one regarded his
o
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D
m
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w
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W
o
a
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PIONEER REMINISCENCES 57
large head, earnest face and firm and fearless dark h;)zel
eyes. ' '
After a little over a year at this academy, through his
excellent record for ability and scholarship, as well as the
recommendations and efforts of his uncle, William Stevens,
Isaac was appointed a cadet at West Point.
Here he distinguished himself by rising to the head of his
class in mathematics and during the entire four years' course
so well did the young man bear himself that when the academic
board came to review the standings of the memDers of the
class to award to each his proper grade it was found that
Cadet Stevens stood at the head in every one of his studies.
Upon graduation Stevens was promoted to be Second
Lieutenant of Engineers and was ordered to proceed to
Newport, R. I., to take part in the building of Fort
Adams. At Newport the social life was much enjoyed by the
young man, and it was while at a social gathering at this
town that Lieutenant Stevens met the young lady who was
afterwards to become his wife, Margaret Lyman Hazard. On
July 1, 1840, Stevens received promotion to be First Lieutenant
of the corps of engineers. His marriage to Miss Hazard occurred
in September of the year following. Soon after his marriage
Lieutenant Stevens was sent to Bedford to take charge of the
repairs to the old fort there. And on June 9. 1842, a son
was born to the young couple. This child was named Hazard,
after the maternal grandfather.
For the ensuing few years Lieutenant Stevens was in
charge of engineering works at Portsmouth and later at Bucks-
port, Maine, and it was while engaged in this work that he
received his orders for service in the Mexican war. Stevens'
first work upon arriving at the seat of war was to seek out
covered ways to allow the troops to pass to and from the bat-
teries at Vera Cruz without loss from the enemies' fire.
After taking this city by the IT. S. soldiers, Stevens ac-
companied the troops into the interior of ]\Ie.xico and was made
Adjutant of the Corps of Engineers. At the battle of Chapul-
tepec a severe gunshot wound in the foot required his retiring
from active service for the rest of the campaign. He was
finally relieved and returned to the States.
Again was he put in charge of military works at various
58 THURSTON COUNTY
places in ]\Iaine and New Hampshire, continuing here for the
next five years.
When the brevets were announced from the war depart-
ment Lieutenant Stevens was brevetted Captain, August 2.
1847, for gallant and meritorious conduct in the battles of
Contreras and Churubusco and Major for gallant and meritor-
ious conduct in the battle of Chapultepec.
]\Iajor Stevens from now on for the following few years
was engaged as assistant to Professor A. D. Boche, chief of
the United States Coast survey. But in the Spring of 1853,
President Franklin Pierce appointed Major Stevens Governor
of the newly organized Territory of Washington.
Save for a handful of settlers on the lower Columbia and
on the shores of Puget Sound, and a few mining and trading
posts in the interior, the whole vast region of Stevens' place
of administration Avas unsettled and for the most part unex-
plored by civilized man. It contained man}' thousand Indians
who regarded the settlement of the territory by the white man
with jealous eyes; the Indian title to the lands had not been
extinguished and there were many troublous questions to be
settled with the Hudson Bay Company, which still held its posts
in the territory and claimed extensive rights as guaranteed
by treaty.
To govern a territory under these conditions would have
appalled most men, but Major Stevens not only applied for the
appointment as Governor, but also asked that he be placed in
charge of the exploration of the most feasible route for the
railroad from the JMississippi River to the Pacific Coast. Con-
gress had recently appropriated $150,000 for the explorative
survey of the proposed railroad.
AVhen the appointment as Governor to Washington Terri-
tory was confirmed, IMajor Stevens was 36 years of age and in
the full prime and vigor of his manhood. Besides the stupen-
dous task involved in the administration as chief executive in
a new and unknown territory, with surroundings and experi-
ences totally different from any he had met in previous ex-
periences, Governor Stevens was also, by virtue of his appoint-
ment, made Superintendent of Indian affairs in the West.
Surely the reader must be impressed with the courage and
mental strength exhibited by Isaac I. Stevens in undertaking
these duties and responsibilities, in addition to the formidible
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 59
undertaking of exploring a railroad route to the Pacific Coast,
through a totally unknown wilderness. How ably he re-
sponded to the demands laid upon him is a matter of history.
Assembling an outfit at St. Paul, Minnesota, in which task
Governor Stevens was called upon to overcome what to many
would have been unsurmountable difficulties, the exploring
party started for the far off Pacific Coast. A history of this
famous exploring trip, compiled by the Governor's son. Hazard
Stevens, from the diary kept by his illustrious father, reads
like a romance of adventure, so many exciting experiences
were encountered and so many hardships and dangers suc-
cessfully overcome.
Arriving at the Columbia River, Governor Stevens fol-
lowed the only route at that time to reach Olympia, the capital
of the new Territory. Up the Cowlitz river by canoe, where
the Indian crew had to progress foot by foot against the cur-
rent of the flooded river, sometimes pulling the frail craft along
by the overhanging bushes, then over a muddy trail by horse
back, Stevens reached Olympia November 25, 1853, just five
months and nineteen days since starting from St. Paul.
He found waiting for him his new Territorial Secretary,
Charles Mason ; EdM'ard Lander, Chief Justice ; J. V. Clen-
dennin, District Attorney; J. Patton Anderson, Marshal, and
Simpson P. Moses, Collector of Customs.
These officials had reached Olympia, coming via the Isth-
mus to San Francisco, then by boat to Portland, and then up
the Cowlitz River and over the trail.
To quote from Hazard Stevens' "Life of Isaac I. Stevens":
"It was indeed a wild country, untouched by civilization.
A scanty white population numbering 3,965, were widely scat-
tered over Western Washington and the Strait of Fuca. Among
the settlers were Columbus Lancaster, on Lewis River; Seth
Catlin, Dr. Nathanial Ostrander and the Huntingtons, on the
Cowlitz; Alexander S. Abernethy, at Oak Point, and Judge
William Strong at Cathalamet."
The Governor's first act was to issue his proclamation
for the election of a delegate to Congress and members of the
first Territorial Legislature and summoning that body to meet
in Olympia on the 28th of February, 1854.
His next official act was to visit the Indian tribes around
the Sound and to generally explore the waters of Puget Sound,
60 THURSTON COUNTY
Elliott Bay and the Straits, to learn of tlie general character
of the harbors, etc. As this cruise was taken in an open
sailboat, it could hardly be regarded as a holiday excursion
in that stormy season, and among the swift tides and fierce
gales of the lower Sound.
One of the objects accomplished on this cruise was the
decision that the little settlement of Seattle was the logical
terminus for the proposed transcontinental railroad.
At the assembling of the Legislature, when Governor
Stevens delivered his first message, after reviewing the natural
resources of this territory, he recommended the adoption of a
code of laws, the organization of the country east of the Cas-
cades into counties, a school system with military training in
the higher schools and the organization of the militia.
The Legislature adopted all these resolutions with the
exception of the one regarding the militia, which omission
proved to be unfortunate, as it left the people defenseless when
the Indian war broke out less than two years later. After the
close of the Legislature Governor Stevens returned to Wash-
ington, D. C. to make his report to the Department of the ex-
ploring and engineering expedition, and also to urge upon
Congress the claims of the new territory.
Completing his Avork in the National Capitol. Governor
and Mrs. Stevens, with their four children, the two youngest
being only two and four years old, respectively, sailed from
New York, September 20. 1854, en route for their far western
homo.
The rough experiences of this refined and cultured family
in coming up the Cowlitz and over the trail and their bitter
disappointment when beholding the capital city is graphically
described in a letter written by I\Irs. Stevens and reproduced
in the historical sketch of Thurston County in the opening
chapters of this volume.
The Governor's family were installed in quarters consist-
ing of tAvo long, one-story buildings, one room wide, unplas-
tered, but lined inside with cotton cloth. In the rear was a
large yard extending to the beach. An Indian camp began at
the corner of the j^ard.
In the midst of these novel scenes and experiences the
family soon began to feel at home and enjoy the western life.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 61
The Governor"'s days were now filled with strenuous labor,
making treaties with the Indians, holding council with the
Chiefs and endeavoring to cultivate their good will.
A history of the various treaties entered into between Gov-
ernor Stevens and the Indian tribes, the councils held and the
long, dangerous and fatiguing expeditions taken by the Gov-
ernor, would more than fill the pages of this volume, conse-
quently only a brief mention is all that space will allow, and
that of the most important ones.
Governor Stevens was in the Blackfoot coiuitry holding
t'ouneil with the assembled bands and had just taken up his
homeward march Avhen a messenger, dispatched by Acting
Governor ]\Iason, reached him with the startling intelligence
that all the great tribes of the upper Columbia country, includ-
ing the Cayuses, Walla Wallas, Yakimas, Palouses, Umatillas.
and all the Oregon Indian bands down to Tlie Dalles, had
broken out in open warfare.
Stevens at once, and with incredible difficulty, hastened
back to Washington, and after doing what he could to establish
peace with the warring savages, undertook to reach Puget
Sound by forced marches. This trip was. taken in the dead
of vrinter over and through deep snows in the mountains,
fording icy rivers and with scant provision and no comforts.
When Olympia was finally reached he found the entire
country was overwhelmed. The settlers had fled for refuge
to the small villages, with no resources of food or money.
Starvation stared the pioneers in the face if prevented from
planting and raising crops. There was also a deficiency of
arms and ammunition. It was small wonder that the settlers
were discouraged, and nothing kept many of them from leav-
ing the country but their inability to get away.
The Governor, by proclamation, raised 1,000 volunteers,
called upon the people to build block houses and proceed with
tilling the soil. He reijuired all Indians on the eastern side
of the Sound to move into reservations, sent agents to Port-
land, San Francisco and Victoria with urgent appeals for
arms, ammunition and supplies. He issued territorial certifi-
cates of indebtedness to pay the volunteers, he freely resorted
to impressment of teams, supplies, etc., wherever necessary, and
vviiile he appealed to the patriotism and good feeling of tho
62 THURSTON COUNTY
voluuteers he enforced strk-t discipline jmd punished miscon-
duct. Tlie people responded to the Governor's appeal with truer
American spirit and patriotism.
The Governor's policy during the war which followed was
an aggressive one. His volunteers pursued the bands of In-
dians, routing them and keeping them from uniting with other
bands.
The history of the Indian war of 1855-56 is not within
the scope of this work, but vivid pen pictures of individual ex-
periences are given from time to time in the reminiscences of
the pioneers interviewed by the compiler. At the close of the
war Governor Stevens disbanded the volunteers and disposed
of the animals, equipment and supplies on hand at public auc-
tion. Owing to the large number captured there were more
animals sold at the several auctions than the entire number
purchased for the volunteer service. The sales of property
netted more than $150,000. As the expenses of the volunteers
had been paid in scrip the sales were made for scrip and many
of the settler volunteers were glad to purchase stock, wagons
and supplies in that way, although scrip money depreciated
but little below^ par value.
Owing to the discouraging condition of the territory after
the Indian war and owing to the stand taken by the agents
of the Hudson Bay Company, Governor Stevens w^as compelled
at this time to issue a proclamation of martial law. This called
for considerable censure from the enemies of the young Gov-
ernor, but at a mass meeting held at the block house in the
capital city, the course of the executive w^as fully endorsed with
but 12 dissenting votes. Judge B. F. Yantis presided at this
mass meeting and J. W. Goodell acted as secretary.
During the time of the Indian trouble the Stevens family
remained in Olympia, the children attending the public school,
presided over by Rev. George F. Whitworth and his wife.
Upon the return of peace the Governor began the con-
struction of a home on the block of land he had purchased
soon after his arrival in Olympia, which building is standing
to this day. still in the possession of the son. Hazard Stevens.
Upon completion of the house. Governor and j\Irs. Stevens
gave a house warming, to which were invited the members of
the Legislature, and all the townspeople. A description of this
first Governor's reception to be held in Washington, is given
PIONEER KEMINISCENCES l!5
in the reminiscences contributed by ]\Irs. J. G. Parker. The
Governor, soon after his arrival in the West, adopted the garb
of the country, slouch hat, woolen shirt and heavy ridint*
boots — a garb suital)le for one constantly undertaking long and
arduous journeys horseback and by canoe.
Li 1857 Stevens was elected Delegate to Congress, and in
the Fall of that year resigned as Governor of Washington, re-
1 inning with his family to the X;itional Ca])ital hy way of
I'anama.
Congress adjourning, the Stevens family again returned
to their Olympia home, where they lived in peace and happi-
ness until Stevens was again elected for a second term as
Congressman.
.At this second term the Governor devoted his best ener-
gies to securing payment of the Indian war debt. He was suc-
cessful in securing good appropriations for military roads be-
tween Fort Benton and Walla Walla and between Steilacoom
and Vancouver, secured $4500 for a boundary survey between
Oregon and Washington, $95,000 for the Indian service, and
also secured a new land office and district for the southern
part of the territory.
The war shadow was now hovering over the land and
Stevens, upon his return to Washington, was instrumental in
raising a company in Olympia. known as the Puget Sound
Rifles, of which company he was elected Captain.
Stevens now engaged in waging the third campaign for
election as Delegate to Congress, in which he was opposed
l)y Selucius Garfielde. but before the election was held, news
of the attack on Fort Sumter reached the Pacific Coast.
Governor Stevens at once withdrew his name as candidate
for re-election to tender his service to his country.
Here properly ends the life story of Isaac Ingalls Stevens
as connected with the early history of Washington. A record
of his military careei" and the soldier's death at the l)attlc
of Chantilly belong by rights to the historian of the Civil War.
General Stevens fell in battle at the moment of victory,
lie had grasped the colors from a dying standard bearer, and
was charging to the front, cheering to encourage his men,
when the fatal shot found its mark. As he lay in death his
hand gras])ed the flag staff, with the colors, for which the nobh^
life had been freely given, resting upon his head and shoulders.
64
THURSTON COUNTV
A brief resume of the results aeliieved by Governor
Stevens' seven years management of the affairs of the new
territory show that he had made exploration of the northern
route for a transcontinental railroad, had made treaties with
30,000 Indians, had extinguished Indian titles to many thous-
ands of acres of Washington land, established peace among
hereditary enemies over a larger area than New England and
the Middle States, and by waging an aggressive warfare against
the savage foe had saved the settlements from extinction. In
Mddition to this Stevens took such a firm stand against British
aggression at the time the controversy over possession of the
San Juan Islands arose that this valuable group was saved
to the United States. At the end of the war he disbanded the
volunteers and adjusted financial claims to the satisfaction of
the majority. Over three quarters of a million dollars were
disbursed for the government, all accounts for which were
found to be correct.
In his career in Congress he secured the ratification of his
Indian treaties, payment of the Indian war debt, the opening
of the interior to settlement and the punlshmexit of Indian
murderers:.
Ei,ISHA P. FERRY
SElvUCIUS GARFIEIvDE
EI.WOOD EVANS JAMES BII,ES
FOUR MASONIC PAST GRAND MASTERS
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 65
ELISHA P. FERRY
Elisha P. Ferry, the first Governor of the State of Wash-
ington, and Territorial Governor for two consecutive terms
l)eginning witli April, 1872, is remembered among the pioneers
as the greatest of all Governors, I. I. Stevens alone excepted.
During his many years' residence in Olympia Governor Ferry
was acknowledged to have been a man of good business ability,
prudent, tactful, painstaking, in thinking as well as in action,
possessed of rare good judgment and great firmness of char-
acter, as well as a good lawyer. He possessed all the acquire-
ments as well as the natural qualities that go toward making
a good executive.
A native of IMichigan. E. P. Ferry studied law there and
later in Fort Wayne, Indiana, being admitted to the bar in
1845 at the age of 20. His first start in life after his gradua-
tion was made in Waukegan, Illinois, where he practised law
until 1869. He was first Mayor of this town, twice Presidential
Elector, a member of the Constitutional Convention of 1861
and afterwards a Bank Commissioner.
When the Civil war began. Ferry served for a time as As-
sistant Adjutant General and helped materially in organizing
and equipping many of the early Illinois regiments and getting
them ready for the field. While engaged in this service he be-
came acquainted with U. S. Grant, which acquaintance soon
ripened into friendship, and after Grant became President he
appointed Ferry Surveyor General of the rapidly developing
Territory of Washington. This appointment was made in
1869, and Ferry brought his family to Olympia, which city
they regarded as their home until the removal of Governor
Ferry to Seattle a few years before his death.
In 1872 President Grant appointed ]Mr. Ferry Territorial
Governor, and at the expiration of that four-year term re-
appointed him to the same position. At the expiration of
eight years as territorial executive Governor Ferry began the
66
THURSTON COUNTY
practise of law in Seattle, continuing' until the admission of
Washington into statehood, when he was elected Governor by
an overwhelming vote of the people.
Governor Ferry returned to Seattle, but was claimed by
death within a few years after the end of his term.
His widow made her home with their daughter, i\Irs. John
Leary, until the past few years, when she, too, passed away.
Besides Mrs. Leary, there are remaining of the Ferry
family, Pierre and James Ferry.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
SAMUEL L. CRAWFORD
My father, Ronald C. Crawford, and my mother, Elizabeth
Jane ]Moore. came to Oregon in 1847, my father from New
York, and my mother from Illinois. Father's elder brother.
Medorum, was of the immigration of 1842, and my maternal
grandfather, Robert ]\Ioore, was of the Peoria expedition of
1840, and both were members of the Champogue meeting,
wiiere the provisional government of Oregon was formed,
my grandfather being Chairman of the Committee on Reso-
lutions, and drafted the organic law which, when adopted by
the convention, became the law of the provisional government
of the territory of Oregon, or more particularly what was
called the Or-egon country.
Mother w^as a little girl of 10 years of age when she
reached her home in the West and the lad who afterwards
became my father, ten years older. In the course of time the
young couple became acquainted and were married, seven
children having been born to them. Only five of these children
are still living. I. Samuel L., being the second child.
My early youth was spent in Walla Walla, Oregon City
and Salem, in all of which towns I attended school. When
while quite a young lad, and still living with my parents,
I attended school in Olympia. My teacher here was the late
Professor L. P. Venen, w4io, at that time, was conducting a
private school in Olympia. Then I went to the public schools
of the town, and enjoyed the companionship of lads and
lassies who, many of them, have become among the prominent
men and women of the now prosperous State of Washington.
Among those whom I am able to recall at this writing are:
Levi Shelton, noAV a prominent citizen of Tacoma; Cynthia
Shelton, who afterAvards became the wife of P. B. Van Trump,
who with Hazard Stevens, made the first complete ascent of
Mt. Rainier in 1870; Clarence AV. Coulter, now prominently
connected with Seattle business affairs; Bradford W. Davis,
68 THURSTON COUNTY
now with the railroad mail service; Anna Pullen. afterwards
]\lrs. Matthew A. Kelly. Mr. Kelly was formerly a prominent
druggist of Seattle. George E. Blankenship, who took up the
printing business, and has stayed on the old stamping ground ;
Fannie Yantis, who afterwards married Capt. J. J. Gilbert,
prominent in the Coast and Geodetic Survey : Anna Stevens,
who afterwards became the wife of the Hon. John F. Gowey,
who was connected with the United States land office in
Olympia and later was made minister to China, where he
was residing at the time of his death, in the early part of the
present century; S. C. Woodruff, Superintendent of the Hos-
pital for Defective Youth at Medical Lake; Georgia Pereival.
now the widow of the late T. X. Ford, at one time Treasurer
of the Territory of Washington ; her brother, Samuel ]\I. Per-
eival, being until recently connected with the state road bu-
reau and whose wife, Druzie Pereival. is well known in all the
Sound cities as a musical composer of more than ordinary
talent ; Francis A. Treen, who afterwards developed a beau-
tiful tenor voice, wnth which he gave much pleasure to his
friends and acquaintances for many years ; Emma Clark, who
afterwards married her teacher, the late L. P. Venen; Josie
Clark, afterwards Mrs. Dellie Woodard ; Nellie Parker, now
Mrs. Herbert McMicken, and many others whose names are
now but a dim and cherished memory.
After graduating from marbles in the field of amusements,
at which game I was proficient and kept my pockets well filled
with the winnings from the other boys when we played "for
keeps," base ball demanded my attention for several j'ears.
In our team were Clarence Bagley, L. A. Treen, Cal. Jim and
Frank McFadden and many other Olympians.
In September, 1871, I entered the office of the Washington
Standard, published by John Miller Murphy, as "devil," to
learn the printer's trade. There I worked until 1875. when I
left the office to accept the position of assistant Clerk in the
Lower House of the Legislative Assembly, of which my father
was a member from Lewis County.
At the expiration of the term of the Legislature I worked
for Clarence Bagley. who was at that time public printer. Wheri
the public work was finished I went to work for Francis Cook,
at that time publisher of the Morning Echo. Cook had i
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 69
chicken ranch on a place called Hardscrabble, in IMason County.
The skunks were numerous and detracted from the financial
returns of tlie chicken ranch, and as he found it difficult to
be at both places at once he arranged with me to run the
paper so he could devote his energies to the chickens. The
paper could only afford one salary and that, of course, to go
to me, and I was left to rustle my own assistance as best I
could.
Now, I developed a regular Tom Sawyer genius for work-
ing my boon companions, and with such jolly spirits as Harry
K. Struve, Ren Patterson, Yakima Jimmie and Peter Stanup,
T managed to get along very well. The work was rather
strenuous, as I commenced rustling news early in the morning,
wrote up the paper in the late forenoons and early afternoons.
then helped the boys set the type, and in the evening worked
off the forms, and finally distributed the paper throughout
the city myself, getting to my bed (which was located in the
banking house of George Barnes & Co.) about two o'clock in
the morning, after eating up everything in the way of fruit
and cake that Mr. Barnes had remaining from his lunch at
noonday.
During the summer of this year I arrived at my majority.
Mr. Cook, who had visited the paper from his chicken ranch.
had inserted an item to the effect that on June 22 the Echo
man would be 21. Imagine my surprise on reaching the office
that morning to find a table loaded down with all sorts of
presents. My old friend and Sunday school teacher, the Rev.
John R. Thompson, had sent me a handsome copy of Bunyan'^
Pilgrim's Progress, George A. Barnes a copy of Hill's Business
Forms, and a number of other books from Francis H. Cook
and other friends. Mr. and ^Irs. L. A. Treen, then living in
Olympia, sent me a can of milk, ]\Irs. T. M. Reed, wife of the
lamented Hon. Thomas Reed, the well remembered and loved
pioneer, sent me a large fruit cake, all decorated with frosted
flowers, together with this little note:
"To the Echo man of twenty-one
This little token's offered.
May the joys of life, like Summer sun,
E'er shine on Sammy Crawford."
I still cherish this kindlv token from Mrs. Reed, and I am
70 THURSTON COUNTY
sorry that both she and her husband have passed to the Great
Ijeyond.
While these joyous days, fraught with hard work but
plenty of fun, were passing in Olympia, things were also do-
ing in Seattle. While a Clerk in the 1875 Legislature the whole
assembly of Legislators made a trip to Steilacoom and to
Seattle, the latter place to investigate the needs of the TJni-
versity. The "fast and commodious" steamer, the Zephyr, had
been chartered for that junket, and was to leave Olympia
at 7 :30 in the morning, stopping first at Steilacoom. When
I got up that morning I found the steamer had left — so was
L While wondering what I was to. do, I met Bob Abrams
and several other members of the Legislature, who were in
my predicament also. We rushed to interview Ed. Harmon, a
well remembered Jehu of Olympia, and after telling him of
our troubles, arranged Avith him to beat the steamer to Steila-
coom, He agreed to forfeit a considerable consideration if he
failed. But he didn't fail. We came on from Steilacoom to
Seattle with the rest of the bunch — my first visit to the Queen
City.
The citizens gave a dance that evening in honor of the
visiting Legislature in Yesler's Hall. Bailey Gatzert was
mayor. All the old settlers, including Mr. and Mrs. Yesler,
turned out. Seattle then had a population of L500, but they
vrere all alive and kicking. There was not hotel accommoda-
tions enough to care for the visitors, and the members and their
vx'ives were entertained at the homes of the private citizens.
Father and mother were entertained by Mr. and ]Mrs. L. N.
Robbins, whose beautiful home then stood on the block directly
south of the late old Hotel Rainier.
I had been invited to spend the night with my boyhood
friend, George E. Blankenship, then employed on The Dis-
patch, by Brown & Bell, who roomed at the house of M. A.
Kelly on Third and Seneca Streets. On reaching his room some
time after midnight, we found the bed occupied by Ed. Pullen,
a brother of JMrs. Kelly, who had "dropped in unexpectedly."
We returned down town and after visiting the various hotels
and not finding acconnnodations, decided to spend the re-
mainder of the night on the hay stored in the open warehouse
at the end of Yesler's wharf. We found this hay literally
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 71
covered with sleeping men, and after amusing ourselves .'i
Avhile tying some of them hand and foot with heaving lines,
we again started up town. George to seek his rest on a pile
of paper in the office and I to fare much better. During the
day my friend, the late Howard W. Lewis, had told me his
room was the third door on the left hand side from the head
of the stairs in the Wyckoff House, and I could sleep with him.
About two o'clock in the morning those kind words recurred
to me very prominently and going to the Wyekoff House, which
stood on the present site of the Alaska building, 1 climbed
the stairs, opened the third door on the left, and found
my friend sleeping in a spacious bed, and there ended my
first night in Seattle.
During this brief visit I was so impressed Math the business
enterprise of Seattle, although it was then a smaller town
than Olympia. that I told my mother I would venture my
fortunes here at the first opportunity. This chance came the
following year. The Daily Intelligencer was launched on the
first daj' of June, 1876, by the late David Higgins. I had
gained some reputation as a pressman in Olympia, and as
Mr. Higgins had introduced a power press in his establish-
ment, he wrote and offered me charge of his press room, to-
gether with what composition I could do when not occupied
about the press. As the salary offered was satisfactory, I ac-
cepted the offer, and on the 24th of June I left Olympia and
took up my work on the Intelligencer the following morning.
After I had boarded the steamer Alida at Olympia, Mr. Cook
sent two of the ]\Iilroy boys to the wharf to induce me to de-
fer my trip. I hid away to avoid temptation till after the
steamer had left the wharf, and there was never thereafter
an issue of the ]\Iorning Echo ])u1)lished. Mr. Cook moved his
plant to New Tacoma and pul)Iisiied the Tacoma Herald for
some time, after which he again moved his plant to Spokane
Falls, where he founded the Spokane Chronicle.
The oft'ice of the Intelligencer at this time was in a two
story and basement wooden building belonging to II. L. Yesler.
on First Avenue, at the foot of Cherry street. The First Pres-
byterian church, corner of Third and Madison Streets, had
recently been completed and was staggering under a load of
debt and was heavily mortgaged. My old friend, Rev. John
72 THURSTON COUNTY
R. Thompson, of Olyinpia. out of the bigness of his heart and
his love for the Christian organization with which he was
allied, had taken it vipon himself to relieve the church of this
burden, and he travelled from Portland to Seattle, soliciting-
funds from his personal friends, whom he numbered by the
liundreds. Arriving at Seattle he told me of his mission, and
asked me what I was willing to do. I told him I had just
finished my tirst week's work in this town and when I got
my pay I would settle my board bill and give what was left
to help him in his cause.
Rev. Thompson, years afterwards, accompanied the First
Washington Volunteers to the Philippines as Chaplain of the
regiment. He was dearly beloved by all the brave soldier boys,
but was stricken with the fever prevalent in that country, and
did not live to return to his adopted State of Washington,
which he so dearly loved.
When I came to Seattle I brought a baseball and bat with
me and at odd times would go out on what was then known
as Occidental Square and pass the ball around. I soon found
a number of congenial spirits, but no organization of a nine
was effected for several weeks. One day a challenge appeared
in a paper from an organization in Newcastle, offering to play
any nine in King County, Seattle preferred, on any day in the
future, on any grounds selected by the challenged team. I
tailed this to the attention of my friends of Occidental Square,
who arranged for some practice games on the old University
grounds, and we found we could play some ball. They au-
thorized me to accept the challenge, on behalf of the Alki Base
Ball Club of Seattle. The game was played two weeks from
the following Saturday. I do not remember the score, but I
do remember that no one of the challenging team ever got be-
yond second base. The Alkis at once sprung into prominence,
and for years met all comers from Olympia to Victoria. In
those days amateur ball was played exclusively, and each
community had its team made up of its young citizenship, and
took great pride in their performances and success. It was
through baseball that I went from the mechanical to the news
department of the Intelligencer. The Alkis had been to Vic-
toria on the Queen's birthday of, I think, 1878, and won a great
victory over the fanu^us Amity team of that Citj'. On our re-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 73
turn I asked the managing editor if tliey had arranged for a
report of the game. He said, in apparent great distress, that
the matter had been overlooked and asked me who he could
get to write the story. I told him I didn't know. "Can you
do it?" he asked. ''I can try," I answered. So well pleased,
apparently, was he with my brief account of the game, that
he sent for me the next morning and requested me to take
charge of the local page of the paper. I remained in that de-
partment during the remainder of my career "on the paper,
and its successor, the Post-Intelligencer, extending over a
period of about 13 years.
A couple of years after my connection with the Intelli-
gencer Thaddeus Hanford, a j^oung college man, and brother
of Judge C. H. Hanford, bought a half interest in the paper
and assumed its editorial control, and later acquired the Hig-
gins interest. Soon afterwards I induced Mr. Thomas W.
Prosch, an experienced newspaper man of Olympia, Tacoma
and Seattle, to buy a half interest in the paper. He and Han-
ford were so unlike in their tastes and ideas and manner of
operating a daily publication, that they decided to agree to
disagree almost immediately and Hanford agreed to sell his
interest in the paper for $5000. Prosch came to me to buy it.
"But," said I, "I have only $960; where am I to get the
balance of the purchase price?" He answered, "I think if
you rustle around a little, you can borrow it. I will let you
have, on your note, $540, to be paid out of the earnings of the
paper. This leaves you only $3500 to borrow." I went to
Judge Orange Jacobs, who had just returned from a term as
Delegate to Congress, and told him of my wants, and to my
joyous surprise, he lent me the money, taking as security my
stock in the paper secured by an insurance policy on the
plant. I paid him the then going rate of interest, IVo per
cent, a month, and paid 10 per cent premium on the fire in-
surance policy to secure him. By hard work and careful man-
i'gement I succeeded in discharging all my debts, principal
«nd interest, besides a lot of indebtedness against the paper,
some $3000, for white paper and telegraphic services, of which
neither Mr. Prosch nor I knew anything at the time of our
purchase, within two years.
In 1882 the Intelligencer was consolidated with the Post,
74 THURSTON COUNTY
a daily, owned by John Leary and George AV. Harris, but
which was proving a losing venture. This was the beginning
of the long and glorious career in the newspaper field of the
Post-Intelligencer. About this time trouble arose with the
Printers' Union, and I Avas unwilling to accede to terms de-
manded by this body of workmen, so sold my interest in the
P.-I. to Mr. Prosch and became an employe on the paper.
On the 30th day of October, 1888, I finally severed my
connection with the Post-Intelligencer, to enter the real estate
business in partnership with Mr. Charles F. Conover, who had
been associated with me on the paper for a couple of years
previously. Owing to our wide acquaintance, growing out of
our long connection with the paper, our new venture prospered
almost from the start. We opened an office in the ncAv Yesler
block, on Yesler Avenue. That evening we gave a banquet
to our late associates on the paper, the members of the edi-
torial, neAvs and business staff, and it Avas some banquet, too.
It Avas given at the Occidental, Avhich Avas on the site of the
present Hotel Seattle.
We busied ourselves during the next 25 days in listing
properties and publishing advertisements and announcements.
By that time our capital was pretty Avell exhausted, and we
had not taken in a cent. On the 27th a stranger came to the
office to have some notary work done, and Ave charged him a
dollar. AVe put that dollar in an envelope, marked it our
first dollar, locked it in the safe and have the identical coin to
this day. The next day Ave sold 11 lots and eight houses to
the late Ursula Wyckoff for $20,000. Her son, J. V. AVyckoff.
still OAvns four of the lots, valued at over $120,000. From
that time on business Avas quite active and at the expiration
of our first year our commissions amounted to upAvards of
$50,000. In the summer of 1889, we placed the Renton addi-
tion on the market for Capt. AV. H. Renton, of Port Blakely,
and sold fifteen lots the first day at prices ranging from $700
to $1,000 each.
The next day the great Seattle fire took place, and burned
our office, together Avith the greater part of the business por-
tion of Seattle. I Avas in Port Blakely Avhen I Avas told that
Seattle Avas burning, and induced the captain of the steamer
Success to leaA^e a half hour earlier than schedule time for
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 75
home. Fr^-e's Opera House was l)urning when I got Seattle
en the wire at Blakely. When I reached our office I was mad
to find all of our furniture piled out on the sidewalk in front
of the Yesler building. I demanded to know why it was not
hauled to safety, and was told of the impossibility of getting
teams. I rushed across the street where was the owner of
teams and who had for years expressed the warmest friend-
ship for me. But he said he could do nothing for us. I was
\ery angry and went on down to Yesler 's wharf, where I found
a man unloading brick. I hired him for $5 to go with me
to move my furniture. While standing in the wagon with
him, directing where to drive, and when we left the wharf
excited men began rushing up to my driver and began shout-
ing, "$50 a load, $75 a load, $100 a load," etc. The man
asked me what they meant and I told him to drive on, they
were all crazy. We rushed the furniture onto the wagon and
J directed the man where to drive. Then I rushed to the Post-
Intelligencer office, where I met the business manager and
asked him if the bound files of the paper had been saved. He
said they had not and would not be, as no effort would be
made to save them. I notified him that I would undertake the
task and would brook no interference. The fire was then
burning the building between Cherry Street and Yesler Avenue.
Unaided, I carried those files, four volumes at a time, up to
Third and James and placed them in the custody of Mrs.
Bailey Gatzert. The next day I met Mr. Hunt and asked him
if he had saved his files. He replied that they had been burned
with the office, and that no money could reimburse him for
their loss. I then told him I had saved them for him and gave
him an order on Mrs. Gatzert for their return. I judge the
files which I saved of daily, weekly and tri-weekly from the
beginning of the paper up to that time weighed in the neigh-
borhood of a ton and a half and they were almost worth their
weight in gold. The paper afterwards published the fact
that the files had been saved and gave me due credit for their
preservation. The next morning the paper was published in a
much condensed form and contained but two advertisements —
one announcing the change of location of the Puget Sound
National Bank and the other notifying the public that Craw-
ford & Conover had temporarily moved their real estate of-
76 THURSTON COUNTY
fice to 615 Union Street. A couple of days later my mother
sent me word that if were going to continue to advertise our
office at her home she wanted me to send some one there to
show property, as customers were constantly calling and she
knew nothing about the real estate business.
The firm of Crawford & Conover recently celebrated their
25th anniversary in business by moving into spacious quar-
ters in our own building near the corner of Third and Pine.
In a book descriptive of the thriving City of Seattle and the
rapidlj^ developing State of Washington, which we published
for public distribution at an expense of $15,000, entitled,
"Washington, the Evergreen State, and Seattle, Its Metrop-
olis," we gave this commonwealth the soubriquet of "Ever-
green State," which has since been adopted as Washington's
universal and most appropiate name."
Mr. Crawford has always been a public spirited man and
has performed many acts of kindness and benevolence, which
fias made his name entitled to honorable mention among the
list of philanthropists of the State of Washington. His enter-
prise of collecting funds for the erection of the monument over
the last resting place of the late Princess Angeline was a
praiseworthy undertaking and one which gave Mr. Crawford
much satisfaction. Angeline and Crawford had for years been
close tillicums, the white man frequently calling on the prin-
cess to be sure she was not suffering for the necessities of life.
During her latter years, after she was unable to help herself,
many a timely gift of money or provisions were sent by the
kindly man. When the weight of years was heavy upon
Angeline and it was evident she would soon join her father,
Chief Seattle, in the Happy Hunting Ground, Mr. Crawford
asked her where she wished to take her long sleep, in the w^hite
man's graveyard or beside her father's remains. "Oh, let
me be buried with my white tillicums, who have been so good
to me!" and her wish was respected.
Mr. Crawford started a movement among the children of
Seattle to raise a fund for the erection of a monument by
10 cent contributions. The children responded gladly, al-
though the promoter of the scheme had to supply part of the
expense from his own pocket. Granite from the mountain
of that name in the Cascades, was employed in the handsome
PIONEER KEMINISCENCES 77
itnd appropriate monument which marks the resting place oi"
the Princess Angeline, and J\Ir. Crawford tells that even to this
day her grave is covered with bouquets of daisies and other
common flowers, sometimes tied with white twine string,
placed there by childish hands whose owners feel a personal
interest in the spot because they had helped to build the
monument.
For several years after Mr. Crawford had retired from
active newspaper work the itch remained with him and a
column of '"Reminiscences" contributed to the Sunday edi-
tion of the Post-Intelligencer, was one of the features of that
l)aper. When Mr. Crawford had been writing these reminis-
cences for several years. Mrs. Crawfod collected all her hus-
band's writings in a large scrapbook and presented it to him
as a valentine present. The columns of this scrapbook are
replete with interesting and amusing incidents of pioneer his-
tory, not only of Seattle, where Mr. Craw^ford has spent the
greater number of years of his majority, but also of Olympia.
The compiler of this book spent a most delightful evening
skimming over Mr. Crawford's scrap book and listening to the
author of the sketches elaborate on the printed stories and
relate the circumstances w^hieh gave rise to a particular event.
Such a bewildering richness of material was offered the com-
piler that it was difficult to select a limited number of the most
typical sketches. But among those which interested the writer
most were the following:
During the Republican campaign of 1869 Selucius Gar-
fielde was a candidate for Representative to Congress. In
order to secure his election Mr. Garfielde, as is the custom to
this day, made many pre-election promises. Candidates for
office seem to have been as plentiful in those good old days as
they are at this later day. Came the election and the men who
had been promised a friendly word in high places worked
tooth and nail for ]\Ir. Garfielde 's election, with the result that
he was winner by a good majority. Rejoicing, the candidates
who had pinned their faith to the Congressional Delegate, hur-
ried to bring him enough endorsements and testimonials of
their peculiar fitness for political jobs to which they aspired,
to stuff a good-sized trunk to bursting. Garfielde suavely
accepted all the papers and Avith smiles and promises to see
Ig THURSTON COUNTY
the powers on behalf of his Washington Territory friends as
soon as he arrived in the National eapitol. It took a long time
in those days to make the trip to Washington, D. C, bnt the
Olympia politicians awaited word from their political sponsor
with what patience they might. Days rolled into weeks and
then months rolled over the men who were impatient to be-
gin on their official duties — also their official salaries. Letters
were sent Congressman Garfielde, but no answer was received.
Finally, quite desperate, a telegram was sent Garfielde de-
niaiidiiig to know why the appointments were not forthcominaf
"Trunk and all endorsements lost!" was the ans^ver wired
back. Mr. Garfielde had found, as do Western Congressmen
ever, that when they arrive in Washington, D. C, keeping pre-
election promises are not always possible. The town wit, but
whether that was Francis Henry or Fred Eltze is a disputed
question, drew a caricature of a mammoth trunk flying through
the air and in this trunk, with grotesque expressions on their
faces, which, although caricatured most fantistically, were yet
plainly recognizable, w^ere pictured the disappointed politi-
cians. Although that caricature was made almost 45 years
ago many of the old timers, on being shown the j^hotograph
which John Yantis made of the drawing, recognize their
friends and smile over the remembrance of Mr. Garfielde 's
lost trunk. There were L. P. Beach, Randall Hewitt, Cherokee
Smith, Judge Dennison, Rev. Whitworth, Judge Struve, of
Vancouver; Elwood Evans, W. W. Miller, A. R, Elder and
Hon. P. D. Moore — the latter perfectly recognizable to the
friends of the present day. Struve 's feet were sticking out
the side of the trunk, a reference to his large extremities. In
fact, the most characteristic feature of each of the men pictured
in the trunk was prominently brought out and enlarged on.
During a later and still more famous campaign between
Selueius Garfielde and Hon. Obadiah B. McFadden for election
as Delegate to Congress in the year of 1872, Mr. Francis Henry
contributed several columns of his brilliant writings each week
to the Washington Standard, under the head of "Chronicles."
In these contributions the most prominent men were dubbed
titles which, owing either to their fitness, or the pleasing allit-
eration of the words, clung to their recipients, in many in-
stances, to the day of their death. As for example: Judge
PIONEER BEMINISCENCES *?
McFadden, "Obadiah, The Faithful"; Garfielde, ''Sehieiiis thi-
Babbler"; B. F. Dennison. " Benjamin the Stiff'' ; T. M. Reed.
'' Thomas the Good": E. P. Ferry, "Elisha the Prophet"; S.
Coulter. "Samuel the Smiler"; C, B. Bagiey, "Clarence the
Amorous"; Rev. John R. Thompson. "John the Joeky'''; ^Mar-
shal Blinn, "Marshal the Headstrong."
When Mr. Crawford was still serving his apprenticeship
of printer on the Washington Standard, the proprietor. Mr.
John i\Iiller ]Murphy. was a candidate for the office of Terri-^
torial Auditor. Mr. Miller was opposed by the Hon. Jos. Kuhn
of Port To\\aisend, The latter man being a member of the
Legislature of 1873, there was occasion to put his name in type
many times in each issue of the Standard during the time
the Legislature was in session. Murphy, holding his grudge
against his opponent, told young Crawford never to allow
Kuhn's name to appear in the paper correctly spelled. The
ingenuity with which the printer carried out the commands
of his superior are worthy of preservation: "Cun, '* "Coon,"
"Cune," "Kun," "Knne," "Koon," "Kunne," "Keun,"
"Khunne," and "Keunn" were among the variations Craw-
ford managed to ring on the name "Kuhn."
While working on the daily Echo in Olympia I had as an
apprentice an Indian boy named Peter C. Stanup, son of Jonas
Stanup sub-chief of the Piiyallup Indians.
Unusually bright and well educated, young Stanup had
been converted to the Christian faith and had studied theology
and preached to the Indians for six or seven years. After
graduating from the newspaper business Stanup studied law
and became very able in that profession. About this time the
Government granted the Puyallup Indians their land in several-
ty and Peter's holdings were estimated to be worth from
$50,000 to $60,000.
Peter, while working for the development of the reserva-
tion, against the wishes of the more ignorant Indians of his
tribe, was thrown off a foot log into the Puyallup river ami
droAvned.
During the time the late lamented John H. McGraw w;i><
M candidate on the Republican ticket for Governor of the State
he was bitterly opposed by the Tacoma papers and it looked
as if he would not l)e able to Crirry a single precinct in Pierce
80
THURSTON COUNTTY
Cunnty. In talking over the matter, lie asked me if I thought
there was any chance for him to carry even one precinct in that
County. I told McGraw and Mr. L. S, Hunt that if we could
enlist Stanup 's services we might earrj the reservation precinct,
Stanup was sent for but when he arrived he told us that
a strong feeling had been worked up against McGraw in all of
Pierce County owing to a plank in the Republican platforn*
favoring" construction of the Lake Washington canal. How-
ever, if I was willing to give the Indians a feast the night be-
fore election and a talk after the feast and have U. S. officers'
at the polling booths so that the boys would not be interfered',
with by thugs from the town we might carry the precinct for
McGraw. We promised Stanup all this and fulfilled our
promises. When the votes were counted after the election
Peter wired, "We carried the precinel. for McGraw by a major-
ity of one.''''
Peter was invited to Seattle and was an honored gruest at
Mr. Hunt''s office while the State returns were being" received-
These returns showed McGraw had won by ahandsome m'a:,farity
all over the State,
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 81
D. C. BEATTY
David Crane Beatty and his wife, Mai\y Thompson Beatty,
have made Olympia their home for almost 65 years. Some-
times venturing their fortunes in other places, sometimes farm-
ing in the County near, once leaving Washington entirely, but
always coming back to the scene of their youthful prime and
vigor, and now as the shadows gather and the sun of their lives
sinks low in the West, their only hope or thought is to take
their final rest near the place that has spelled home to this
devoted couple for well over the half century mark.
Mr. Beatty first saw the light of day in Champaign County,
Ohio, the year of his birth being 1828. When nine years of
age his parents took their eleven children and went to Illinois.
where they settled for a good many years. Here the young
David grew to manhood and learned the trade of cabinet
making. He was of rather delicate health, however, and
realized that a complete change of climate was advisable, so
decided to take the famous advise and "Go West." The start
was made from New York on December 16, 1852.
The young man took passage on the old steamer Brother
Jonathan to Paiuima. One of the excitments of the trip was
the almost daily occurrence of fire on the ])oat. Only the
oldest and most unseaworthy of water craft was then used to
bring those foolhardy enough to seek what Avas considered
an imaginary fortune in the almost unknown West.
From San Francisco Mr. Beatty came on to Portland.
Oregon, his steamer this time being the Fremont, well re-
membered by pioneer emigrants. Portland was then a village,
in the woods on the Willamette River, of probably two business
blocks and a few scattered houses. The Winter months were
spent there, but when Spring came and tales began to reach
the Oregon town of opportunities for business openings in the
Sound country, which was just beginning to attract the
emigrants' atte)ition, Beatty, whose healtli was still poor, de-
82 THURSTON COUNTY
eided to join a i)arty of young men and take the ventnre.
Sixteen stalwart young men were in the party with which
the young man cast his fortune. All that Mr. Beatty can
remember the names of at this late day are Tom Prather, four
Hays brothers and Edmund Carr.
The trip was made up the Cowlitz River in Indian canoes
to the lower landing. Here the boys took the Indian trail up
the river through brush so dense that many times the only
possible way to get along was by crawling on their knees.
When Jackson's place was reached the men were served a,
breakfast that, even after the lapse of these many years, re-
mains fresh in ]\Ir. Beatty 's memory.
About noon the party came out on Scatter Creek. They
were almost famished by this time, and were delighted to find
a shack standing there in the wilderness. The owner was not
around, but the door was unlocked, so they went in and
searched for something to satisfy their hunger. Edmund Carr
was the first to reach the rude cupboard and opened the
door. Mother Hubbard's cupboard must have been a clos3
connection to this one. for the only eatable the hungry young
men could find was one cold potato on a tin plate. As this
potato was only about the size of a walnut Carr appropriated
it for himself. There was nothing else in all the cabin to
eat, so the men had to push on to the next stopping place.
Carr then called his friend Beatty aside and, dividing the
diminutive potato exactly in half, gave one portion to him,
eating the other himself. This was among the many acts of
generosity and brotherly love that were related to the com-
piler of these reminiscences that made the work one of the
most delightful and inspiring experiences of her life.
As evening approached, the party of adventurers reached
Bush's, where a good supper was served them and permission
given the boys to roll up in their blankets on the floor of the
shack, which permission was gladly accepted. In the morning
the march was completed by the arrival at Tumwater. There
was only the stringers of a bridge then across the Des Chutes
River at this place, the crossing having been made heretofore
by Indian canoes. Horses and cattle were generally taken to
Tenalquot Prairie, where there was a safe ford. This bridge,
under construction, was being built by Ira Ward, the pioneer
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 83
iiiillman of Puget Sound. The young men, single file, walked
the s(iuare timbers across the river, so reaching Tumwater.
^Ir. Beatty's eyes grew dim as he mused. "I can see them
yet, sixteen as fine young men as were ever to be seen, filing
across that river which flowed swiftly beneath the single stick
of timber. Of that goodly party only Tom Prather and myself
are left. All the rest are long since gone." The experience of
crossing the river was a new one to the prairie raised lad.
From Tumwater the trail to Olympia was taken and this
place reached about noon. The very afternoon the boj's reached
here news was brought to the settlement that Washington had,
by Act of Congress, been set aside from Oregon. Everyone
was glad and believed that a great era of prosperity was about
to set in for the new territory.
"When I reached Olympia there were no buildings south
of Fourth Street, everywhere else stood the tall timber coming
right down to the beach, the only exception being Isaac
Wood's residence, a shack constructed of clapboards down on
the beach at where the end of Fifth Street now is. Mrs. Simp-
son Moses and Mrs. George Barnes are the names of the only
white women I can remember, although there were two others
when we got here.
"Edmund Sylvester and his brother had a Hall for
Travelers, as they called their place, on the corner w^here
the Old New England hotel now stands. Their 'Hall' was
of split and hewn lumber, lined with cloth, and while very
comfortable for those days hardly came up to its pretentious
name.
"My first job was taken to split rails for IMr. Ruddle, out
on Chambers Prairie. My friend Carr went with me and we
found we had to first cut down the cedar trees, saw them into
lengths, and then split the logs into rails. Well, I was not
strong yet and too much of a tenderfoot to last long at this
kind of work, so when noon came we quit and came back to
Olympia.
"Our next venture was to go to Alki Point, as it is now
known, but which was then held as a townsite by Charles
Terry and called New York. W. W. ]\Iiller was at that time
internal revenue officer for the government and offered Carr
and myself passage to New York for rowing the boat to tliat
g4 THURSTON COUNTY
place. I was fresh from the prairie country, the water was
new to me and I had never rowed a boat in mj^ life, but we
accepted the offer and made out tolerably well.
"When Ave reached New York we found that Charlie
Terry, of the firm of Lowe & Terry, loggers, was an old friend
of my family, having come from the same place in Illinois.
There were only three or four cabins there, but Terry had
great faith in the prospect of a great city growing up there
some day, so had platted the town site and laid off city lots.
"I was given work driving an ox team — familiar work it
was, too — on Bainbridge Island. Carr w^as set to felling trees.
At this time our only food for over six weeks was salmon and
potatoes, but I never thrived better, and gained a pound a day,
till I was quite a comfortable weight and ray bad health
greatly improved. For this six weeks we were out of flour
and it was not till the next sailing vessel came into port
that we were enabled to have a variation from our diet of
salmon and potatoes.
"When Lowe sold out I returned to Olympia with him,
and about the first thing I did upon my return was to build
a little house for John Swan, on the corner where the Knox
hotel now stands. Upon completion of this building I rented
it of Swan, procured a foot lathe, cut alder trees from the
swamp and began making furniture. In the early days car-
penters or cabinet makers were of necessity mechanics in the
true meaning of the word — not wood butchers. Though the
trade was not governed by unions, the very condition compelled
a man to be proficient. It was not possible then to go to the
mill and get his doors and windows, his matched lumber and
shingles or mouldings — all these were the work of the car-
penter, whose kit of tools must include moulding planes and
ether accessories now made unnecessary by modern improve-
ments.
"Later I bought the corner where for so many years John
Miller Murphy has had his printing office, and which I sold
to him in after years. Here I built for myself a shop, and
continued making furniture. I was getting a fine start, and
all my prospects were of the brightest when the Indian war
broke out. This put a stop to business of all kinds. Emigra-
tion slacked, and the countrv was set back ten years. Closing
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 85
my shop I enlisted with the first volunteer company organized
to fight the Indians.
"Well, my experiences during this war would fill a small
v^olume by themselves. ]Many exciting and dangerous times
were before me then. I was among the soldiers engaged in
the Indian fight in the Puyallup Valley. Once I was with a
party of volunteers who rescued an English family of settlers
from massacre in this valley. Their house was surrounded,
and although the inmates had made a gallant defense, the
Indians were just breaking down the door when our men
came galloping up, scattering the enemy and saving the lives
of the white people.
"After the White River battle and the subsequent sub-
duing of the Indians on this side of the mountains, our com-
pany was ordered East of the mountains, where the Indians
cf the Cayuse, Walla Walla and Umatilla tribes were on the
warpath. We crossed the mountains through the Natchez
Pass, which was wild and rough, and proved a trying ex-
perience.
"Our camp was made for several weeks on I\Iill Creek,
near Walla Walla, at the place where the Whitman massacre
occurred. We had to wait here till our government supplies
arrived from Portland.
"Here occurred an incident the reasons of which kepi
my comrades guessing for the remainder of the campaign.
Among the supplies sent the volunteers was a barrel of
whisky. This was divided among the several companies,
my company's share being a three gallon camp kettle full.
The kettle, with its precious contents, was set in the com-
manding officer's tent to wait till the boys got in from a
scouting expedition, before dividing the whisky. As it was
difficult to get the men together that night our captain de-
cided that a morning drink would best be appreciated by the
boys. Now, it was my duty to care for this captain's tent, as
I was 2nd sergeant of our company, and was generally the
first one up in the morning, to make the fire and bring fresh
water for making the coffee for our mess. I grabbed this
kettle, threw the contents on the ground and filled the utensil
with water. Later, when the boys were lined up with their
tin cups in tlieir hands and glad anticipation in their minds,
86 THURSTON COUNTY
llic captain went into the tent to bi'ing out the kettle. Where
was it? Why, there on the fire filled with boiling coffee. I
was (inestioned and acknowledged that it was through my act
that the whisky Avas scattered on the ground. How was I to
know that the kettle held anything but dirty water? The
captain could say but little, for he had not told me to be
careful of the contents of the kettle, and it was ray custom
to take that kettle every morning to the creek for. fresh
Avater. My comrades growled a good bit, but they never
could tell for certain whether I really diil know what was in
that kettle or not. After these years I can say that the very
liame of whisky has always been distasteful to me. We were
on the eve of an attack from the Indians, we supposed, and
T was determined that there would be at least one sober com-
pany in the engagement. The boys didn't dare to manhandle
nic. but I know they would have liked to do so,
"Word was received that the Indian tribes were collect-
ing in the Grande Rouude Valley to gather camas for the
Winter, and we were sent in to rout them. We were 100
fighting men with a guard of 75 men with the pack animals.
It was night when we reached the upper end of the valley
and we weiit into camp there. A^'ery foolishly we built camp
fires, so letting the Indians know where we were. We expected
to find the Indians at the lower passage on the Grande Rounde
River, and in the morning formed in line and started for
there. Before the passage was reached there came riding one
of the willow trees that fringed the river banks an Indian
brave in war paint. In his hand was a long pole on which
was a white man's scalp. Riding wnldly around in front of
the volunteers, but always out of rifle range, the Indian gave
his war whoop and waved the ghastly trophy as a tantalizing
menace before our boys. jMy comrade all through the war
was G. C. Blankenship, and a finer man I never met. This
.sight was too much for his temper, so he dashed up to our
comriianding officer and plead: 'Col. let me get that fellow'?'
'Go then,' said the colonel, 'Get him if you can while he is in
the open, but do not follow him into the brush.' Blankenship
rode out after the Indian, but when the rascal saw he was
pursued he took refuge in the bushes and the man had to
return to his company.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 87
"Dust arising from tlie plain near the upper crossing of
the Grande Rounde was seen, and Col. Shaw called a halt
and said: 'Boys, thei'e is where we want to charge, for there
is where the Indian train, with their supplies, are trying to get
out of the valley.' We dashed up and Col. Shaw dismounted
fmd went into the bushes where he could see up and down
the river. A man named Buchanan, and myself, also dis-
mounted and went up to the river, leading our horses. I saw
blood on Buchanan's horse's flank and said, 'We'd better
get back a little. Buck,' which we did. When Col. Shaw
.ioined us, one of the boys said, 'What's that on your coat
collar, Colonel?' He looked, and there -was a bullet hole clear
through the cloth and another one through the skirt of h^'s
r-oat. The Indians were poor shooters and couldn't hit any-
thing a few yards away.
"We crossed the river and the Indians fired on us as we
were fording, but no one was killed, although we got three
or four of their men. As expected, we found the pack train
with the women and papooses. The ponies were loaded with
camas and the next day we had a burning and destroyed at
least 200 bushels of roots.
"This was the Indians' last struggle against the whites.
By destroying their winter's supplies they were rendered help-
less. They couldn't fight on empty stomachs and so we con-
<juered them.
"That the Indian war was hastened and fostered by the
Hudson Bay people there is little doubt. At that time Eng-
land claimed all this country from the Canadian possessions to
ihe Columbia river, and the ever increasing number of Ameri-
cans coming to settle the Northwest threatened to ])ut under
the plow land that the Hudson Bay sheep men were accustomed
to look upon as their legitimate pasturage, so they aided the
Indians with arms and sn])plies in a struggle to maintain con-
trol of the country.
"Governor Stevens sent his clerk out once to visit the In-
dian camps to see if he could find evidence of aid to the Indians
from this source. I was sent along, with others, as a guai-d.
We found empty sacks and cans with the Hudson Bay let-
tering on them, jn'oving conclusively where mncli of the su])-
I'ort the Indiaiis received came from.
8g THURSTON COUNTY
"I must tell one other incident of the war. While we were
camped on Tenalqiiot prairie, at the fort there, and the volun-
teer troops were assembling-, myself and seven other men were
sent to Olympia for supplies. We were on horseback and had
just come out on Long prairie when we spied a party of 75
Indians coming- towards us. That they were armed, we could
see, for the sun glittered on their guns. We held a hurried
lonsuitation and decided that as we were mounted and the
Indians were on foot Ave would go a bit closer to see what was
doing, although we intended keeping well out of rifle shot.
It i)roved to be the Squaxon Indian tribe, under leadership
of Indian Agent Gosnald, coming to join forces with the
volunteers to fight the hostiles. When they saw us eight
men ride up single file to meet their army of 75, they broke
into a perfect bedlam, they were so excited. 'Wliat's the usC;
Indian fight white man,' their chief said, 'one white man not
afraid ten Indians.' And that was always the way it was.
We never thought it was possible that the Indians could lick
us. When Ave went doAA-n into the Grande Rounde after thera
Ave Avere only TOO fighting men, not counting the 75 men in
charg-e of the pack train, and there Avere l.OOG Indian Avarriors
against us. But AA-e Avere ncA^er afraid, and so aa'ou the struggle.
"When Ave Avere on the campaign one of the pleasant recol-
lections of this grim time Avas the cooking my comrade,
G. C. Blankenship. did for the mess. The men Avere supposed
to take turns in this task but after they had all been tried
out, Mr. Blankenship proved so superior in the culinary art
that he was made chief cook for the rest of the campaign.
He would bpen a sack of flour, mix up a batch of bread Avith
his sour doug-h 'starting' and AA'hen that bread was baked in
the camp oven Avith plenty of bacon grease it Avas a delight
to the hungry men. One day, to vary the menu our cook rolled
some sugar in the dough, cut it into little pieces and fried
these in bacon grease. The result Avas the best doughnuts man
ever tasted — or so Ave thought at the time. When I got home
T tried them to show my Avomen folks hoAv, but they didn't
taste so good. With this bread, doughnuts and bacon, beans
and cotfee, Ave fared Avell on the trip.
"After the Avar Avas over I Avas appointed Indian Agent
under General R. H. Milroy, and became Avell acquainted Avith
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 89
the Lidians, I could speak their language and had many
friends among them. I have worked as cabinet maker and
carpenter for years in Olympia, and once went to Salem, Ore-
gon, where 1 was engaged in a sash and door factory for three
years, but always came back to this town."
Here Mr. Beatty ceased his talk and asked to be excused
while his wife proceeded with the narrative.
"With my uncle, Rev. Geo. F. Whitworth, and my aunt,
Eliza Whitworth, and her mother, Mrs. Sarah Thompson, my
sister Sarah and the four young Whitworth ehiktren, I crossed
the plains from Connelton, Indiana. Grandmother was 78
years old, and I was a young girl of sixteen.
"The way I happened to make this trip was, when the
Presbyterian Board of Missionaries sent Uncle Whitworth out
to preach the Gospel in the wilderness, he begged father to let
my sister Sarah and myself come along as company for Aunt
Eliza and to help take care of our grandmother. Of course, I
was to go back in a year or tAvo, but it has been over sixty
years since I made that journey and 1 have never been back
yet.
"We had no special hardships on the trip, other than
was to be expected from camping out for so long a time and
the fatigue of constant but slow travelling, for we had ox
teams. There were 40 wagons in our train, and so, owing to
our considerable numbers, we were not molested by the lu-
ll ians, although once we Avere followed 150 miles by a band
of warriors, who told us they intended killing every one of
our party in revenge for the death of one of their number,
which had occurred shortly before. An emigrant in a train
fihead of ours had shot and killed the Indian, The brave who
came into our camp to tell us of their intentions amused him-
self by marking off with stakes in the ground the length of
the graves he informed us we would soon occupy when they
had finished us. But they never seemed to find the weak spot
in our defense and finally gave over following us. When we
reached the Snake river we waited for other teams along the
road to join us for further protection. Two wagons came
along the trail with their beds completely riddled from the
Indians' bullets. They had been attacked by a roving band,
90 THURSTON COUNTY
one of the children killed and an attempt made to stampede
their stock. Tliey were a sorry-looking outfit.
"Uncle Whitworth would have no Sunday traveling, and
the train was always halted on this day, and we laid by for
rest, and generally held some kind of worship. But w^hen we
reached the Blue oMountains the supplies were running so low
that the other people in the train determined to travel all
day Sunday. We started up the Blue JMountains on this par-
ticular Sabbath day, which was the first we had failed to
properly observe. When we were rounding a canyon I was
driving the oxen on one side anci my sister on the other to
keep them in the narrow road. The front yoke deliberately
walked off over the edge of the precipice. The rigging gave
way and left a single yoke of young oxen to hold the wagon
from slipping back down the hillside. These animals strained
till their horns w^ere buried in the dust of the road, and they
were brought to their knees before the wagon could be
stopped. That was our first Sunday trial. As evening came
en Uncle Whitworth had to take our big wagon and strike
out to the river, twelve miles away, leaving Aunt Eliza, one of
the children and me to guard the other wagon. We were
frightened, for the coyotes were howling round and it was a
fearsome spot. William Mitchell, who was wnth our train,
heard of our being left behind alone and rode back to stay
with us till Uncle Whitworth could return. We were so glad
to see him and appreciated his thoughtfulness.
"When we reach Portland, Uncle Whitworth came on up
to Fort Steilacoom to take up his missionary labors. He found
an Episcopal minister already stationed at the fort, and doing
such a noble work that there seemed to be no field of labor
there for any other minister. But in Olympia there was a
good opening, and it seemed to him that he could do a great
deal of good in this new place, so decided to locate here. There
was scarcely anybody living here then, the settlement being
mostly at Tumwater, but at what is now known as Priest's
Point some Catholic fathers had established a mission.
"Uncle took up a donation claim on land adjoining the
mission property, Iniilt a temporary home for his family and
])egan his missionary labors. He organized the First Presby-
terian church in Olympia, also at Chehalis, and the one on
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 91
Chambers prairie. Riding for miles to carry the gospel wher-
ever a few were congregated, sometimes being obliged to teach
school to support his family, so meager was the pittance al-
lowed him by the Presbytery, and so poor were his congrega-
tions. He was a good man and has gone to a well earned
reward.
"Aunt Eliza, with the rest of the family, had staj^ed in
Portland the first winter in the West, while Uncle Whitworth
was locating on the Sound. Aunt and my sister, Sarah, taught
school that winter to pay our expenses.
"In Ma}' of the following summer Uncle came to bring us
to our new home. The trip in the Indian canoes up the Cow-
litz river was one of the most thrilling experiences of my life.
J was totally unused to water, and although the canoes were
large, they looked dangerous to me. Indeed, one of the canoes
was upset and we lost all our bread and dishes, although the
latter were recovered after several weeks and sent on to us.
We found refuge the night we reached the landing in the
home of ^Ir. Lemon, whose son is now ]Millard Lemon, the
Olympia capitalist.
"We were met at the landing by Judge B. F. Yantis with
an ox team to bring us to our new home. As we had to camp
out along the way from the Cowlitz to Olympia, the loss of
our dishes was very inconvenient. Judge Yantis searched
among the ranch houses to find cups for us to drink out of,
but all the dishes he could procure were three small sugar
bowls of thick earthenware. These the elders used for drink-
ing cups, but we younger ones had to use egg shells from
which to drink our coffee. But we enjoyed the experience and
thought coffee never tasted so good.
"We had one scare as a Avelcome to the new country. At
the Cowlitz landing were a number of Indian tents and in them
were some very sick squaws and pappooses. Harry Whit-
Avorth, then about nine years old, went in among them, carry-
ing them water and tending them until way in the night. Later
it developed that the disease with which the Indians were ill
was smallpox, and that in the most virulent form. So severe
did the disease rage that that particular band of Indians was
slmost lost. We watched Harry with great uneasiness till the
92 THURSTON COUNTY
clanger period was safely over. I suppose the fresh air and
pur perfect health prevented our taking the disease.
"When we reached Tuinwater Judge Yantis, who was al-
wavs full of his fun and iokes, took Sarah and me to visit an
Indian camp, to see what he told us would be our eatables
from now on. They had just finished drying and hanging up
a string of geoducks. The long necks and scaly looking bodies
of this, tp us. new species of salt water products, did not look
very inviting.
"From Tumwater we took canoes for Priests Point, where
I^ncle's claim was. If I was frightened before, imagine my
sensations when I was placed in a tiny craft that, when T
was in with my Indian paddler, was only about one inch
above the water of Puget Sound. When we reached the point
belovv' the mission all our household goods we had with us
had to be carried by hand up the hill to our home. Grand-
mother, who had shared in all our adventures, could not climb
up there, however, so sister Sarah and myself put her in the
little old rocking chair we had brought clear from our old
home in Indiana for her to sit in and carried her up the hill
and the ciuarter of a mile to where our house stood. This
house was but a shack 16x16 built of poles and covered, sides
and all. with cedar bark. There was a fireplace in one end
three or four feet across and one of the most joyous objects
we had beheld for a long time.
"The good fathers at the mission were our only neigh-
bors, and the wopds came close to our shack. In our imme-
diate neighborhood was an Indian burial place, the bodies
lianging in the branches of the tall trees, laid in canoes. It
was to us a fearsome sight, but Ave became accustomed to it,
and did not mind it after a while. Indeed, we much preferred
these dead Indians to some of those still alive, for it was
at this time that the Indian trouble was on.
"That summer Uncle raised quite an amount of potatoes
and, as we had no cellar, was at loss where tp stpre them, until
&pmeone pointed out that in the field where he was clearing
there were a number of big trees, the roots of which had been
burned into, leaving hollows and thus forming excellent places
for storing the potatoes.
"As a variation of our diet we used to put up the wild
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 93
berries we found growing here in profusion. As sugar was
scarce and very expensive we used wild honey as the preserva-
tive. Honey bee trees were frequently located, and it was
one of the sports of the time to cut one down and secure the
sweets stored in the hollow trunk. We had rough and tumble
times, but good times withal. Life was full of snap and en-
joyment in simple pleasures. We had our mail about every
six weeks, and for the first few years all our supplies came
from the Sandwich Islands. It was a great day when we
began to get things in from San Francisco ; we began to feel
quite civilized. I remember the first apples ever grown in
Thurston County. They were grown on a tree planted by ]\Ir.
Axtel, on Grand Mound prairie. Mrs. Axtel told the boys
that if they did not touch the fruit when it was ripe she would
make them a pie. They obeyed and when that pie was made,
so precious were the apples they went in, peel and all.
No wasting good fruit by taking off even the thinnest peeling.
"We lived in the shack Uncle' Whitworth had provided
for us for quite a while, but finally we were ready for a new
house, so comes from Olympia David Beatty and A. J. Lin-
ville, carpenters, to build our new house. And that is the
time and the place I met ^Ir. Beatty. These men cut down
trees from the land around the site of the new house, split
them into boards and planed out the weather boarding, all
by hand. They made a very creditable and comfortable resi-
dence, which we appreciated after our crowded quarters. We
sent for our household furnishings, books, etc., which came
around the Horn, and from San Francisco were sent on l)y
sailing vessels to this port.
"As the Indians were getting ti"ou])lesome Uncle Whit-
Avorth asked the mission fathers if they considered our situa-
tion dangerous. They replied, 'Not yet, we will give you
warning, if it becomes so, in time for you to go to the stock-
ade in Olympia.' In about two weeks this warning was given
and we fled to town. Again we carried grandmother in her
little chair to the water and set her into a canoe. We found
j-cfuge in two rooms over ]\Ir. Beatty 's shop. These rooms
had been fitted up as a photograph gallery by Samuel Holmes
father of Fred Holmes and ]\Irs. Robert Frost, and was the
94
THURSTON COUNTV
first art gallery in the X'orthwest. I slept right under the
big skylight in the roof.
"Mr. Beatty and I were married in 185G after the Indian
war was over. We at one time took up a homestead of 160
acres on Ayers' Hill, Joining Swan's donation claim. ^Ir,
Beatty built a cabin on one side of a stream that flowed there
then, and his partner, Mr. Linville, lived on the other side of
the stream, but it was so lonesome and the trees were so for-
midable that the places were abandoned. The timber alone,
in after j'ears on those claims, would have been worth a
fortune.
"Uncle Whitworth, Aunt Eliza, the grandmother, Sister
Sarah, all are gone. I can think of no one of my associates of
those early days who is still living. Our daughter Adelaide.
i>: the only child we have ever had."
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 95
MRS, JOHN G. PARKER
Have yon ever opened a long-forgotten desk and taken out
n packet of letters tied with faded blue ribbon, and caught
the sweet, evanescent perfume of rose leaves and violets which
have been put away ])y hands which have long since finished
their earthly tasks? Such were the sensations of the compiler
of these reminiscences when journeying back to the days of long
tgo with ]Mrs. John G. Parker. Sweet and full of girlish ro-
mance were the memories evoked of conquests, triumphs and
innocent coquetry of this belle of Olympia of the early '50 's,
although the dear old lady could also tell of hardships and
privations that would undoubtedly crush a girl of modern
days.
In Mrs. Parker's words will her story be told, for they
were more eloquent and expressive than any at my command,
but the reader will miss the inspiration of watching the deli-
cate color come and go in the faded but still lovely face, of
listening to the gentle voice thrill and tremble over the ex-
citing or sorrowful portions of the narrative, of being taken
back to the actual scenes and experiences of those days that
are no more.
"When I was a young girl of a little less than sixteen
years of age, living in Saline County, Missouri, my father,
Gilmore Hays, decided to leave the old homestead and take
his family out to Oregon, as all this section of the country
was then called. Father had been out West before and knew
that the land was full oi richness and opportunities for amass-
ing wealth such as would never be found in the more settled
country. There were six boys in our family and father
1 bought they would stand a better chance to get on in the
world when the time came for them to branch out for them-
selves in the new country. Father's enthusiasm spread to a
lot of our kinsfolks and tlun' decided to join our train and
cross the plains with us.
<J6 THURSTON COUNTY
"I can't tell now just how many -wagons there wei-e in
line when we pulled out for our start for the long journey
over the Oregon Trail. But the ones whom I am able to re-
call were the family of Dr. N. Ostrander, Uncle Frank Yantis
with his family, George Scott and wife, Mr. and Mrs. Hillory
Butler, my father's brother Isaac Hays, Rev. Lapsley Yantis
and many others.
'"The tirst stages of the trip were full of pleasure and de-
light, especially to us younger members of the train. Although
the greater part of the w^agons were drawn by yokes of oxen
and perforce the travel w^as slow, ^ve younger ones had each
»'Ur oAvn pony and would ride far in advance of the train, pick
cut a good camping place where there was wood, water and
grass for the animals. Here we would dismount and the young
men proceed to collect piles of wood for the camp fires in the
evening while we girls would skylark around, pick flowers
and rest beneath the trees by the side of the beautiful streams
which we frecj[uently were fortunate enough to find for our
tamping place. When the wagons would pull in tow^ards
evening it was a hurry-up to get supper, turn out the stock
and then all hands gather around the enormous eampfires
where merry jest, songs and cheerful companionship banished
every thought of homesickness or foreboding. We had several
violins, a banjo and many fine voices in the party, so music
was enjoyed almost every evening.
"I must fell you about my pony. She was the fastest ani-
mal in the train, a perfect beauty and a great pet, and an
animal of more than ordinary intelligence. So speedy wa*?
she that the hunters always borrowed her w^hen they wanted
to run down a buffalo to replenish our supply of fresh meat.
One day I was in a pet towards the other girls in the train,
Sarah Yantis and her sister. Mrs. PuIIen, (these girls were
afterwards ^Irs. G. C. Blankenship and Mrs. Dick Wood),
So I told them to ride on and I would waif for the wagons, let-
ting my pony eat by the road side. As soon as they had dis-
appeared along the trail I dismounted and sat down in the
grass. That pony would scarcely eat a mouthful so intently
rid she watch, looking all around for possible danger. When
the wagons came on up and father saw me there alone he
scolded me good and hard and said the horse show^ed a good
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 97
deal more sense than I did. But some way I Avas never in the
least afraid of the Indians and thought the tales I heard of
their cruelty and treachery were mostly imaginary. I was
to learn better a few years afterwards during the Indian war
in Washington.
"Well, all went merry as a marriage bell until we reached
Fort Laramie. Here was the parting of the ways. Uncle
Lapsley Yantis was a Presbyterian minister and as good a
man as ever trod the earth, and he was strong for whatever
he considered to be the right, and to travel on the Sabbath
day was not right according to his views. Father was also
a good man but he was more practical and had different ideas
from Uncle Lapsley. He reasoned that even if the train did
lay over and not travel on Sundays that the emigrants would
probably not observe the day any better than those who pushed
on toward their journey's end. The women w^ould bake, wash,
etc., and the young folks get into various kinds of mischief,
but m.ost weighty argument of all, the cattle would become
so scattered in a whole day's and two nights' layoff that, in
his judgment, it was better to keep going. The leaders couldn't
agree, so the train was divided, some going on with father and
the remainder staying Avith the Sabbath keepers. Was it a
judgment from God that as soon as the decision was made
and we began to fail in Sabbath observance dire calamity be-
fell us? It certainly looked so. Soon after the separation we
overtook an emigrant wagon in which was a sick boy. Mother
offered her services to the parents of the lad and did what she
<:ould do for them in the way of nursing and simple remedies
to relieve the lad's fever. Little did she suspect the nature
of the disease she came in contact with. About ten
days after encountering the sick boy she was taken down with
a raging fever which soon developed into a severe case of black
measles. Soon nearly all the young people of the train w^ere
inflicted with the dread disease. Of my six brothers one after
another died till three graves were made along the roadside.
But before Brother Henry died mother, too, was taken. Henry
seemed to be getting over the measles and we hoped for a
time he might be spared us. One night, after convalescence
had set in, we were sitting around the campfire, no longer glee-
ful and singing, but oppressed with our dreadful sorrow.
98 THURSTON COUNTY
Henry was well enough then to eat some ham which I had
cooked for supper. After eating he complained of a terrible
thirst and kept drinking water. Soon cramps set in and he
was dead before morning. I thought father would go crazy
at this terrible last blow.
"We reached Salmon Falls in Idaho before mother died,
and although I did not know of it till a year afterwards when
I again met my cousin, Sarah Yantis. in Olympia, I must tell
of her resting place. We had to roll the body in a blanket —
there was, of course, no way to make even the rudest coifin,
and after the mortal remains of our dear mother had been
covered the best we could, father took off a piece of the end
board of the wagon and wrote her name, Naomi Hayes, on it.
Then we had to go on and leave her there.
"Well, when Uncle Lapsley's train came along several
days after we were on our way, they espied a newly made
grave beside the road and on going to it read mother's name.
Mrs. Yantis, who was very delicate and suffering from the
hardships of the trip, had become very ill on the way. When
she knew that her old friend was buried there she lost all
hope, and although the train made a couple of stages further
on their way, the poor lady was unable to stand the shock and
sank to rest. Her last words were 'Take me back to sleep
beside Naomi.' Her broken hearted husband and children
respected these last words and retracing their way to where
mother was laid, buried her there and beneath mother's name
wrote 'Ann Yantis.' And there they sleep side by side. Ah,
it was a hard and bitter time.
"After the death of my third brother father decided that
the time had come to do something, so he had one of the lighter
wagons emptied of all but our actual necessities for light
camping and hitching the freshest of the mules to the wagon,
started my brothers, myself and some other, women and children
of the train on as fast as the animals could travel. He hoped
we could reach The Dalles and so on to Portland before winter
set in.
"AVhen we reached The Dalles we women and children
were put on flat boats and floated down to the Cascades. Here
we were obliged to walk across the portage to the landing
and then take a little steamboat on down to Portland.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 99
"At this place I was met by an uncle, Andrew Cowan,
who took me home with him and I spent the winter very com-
fortably with my uncle and aunt.
"Portland was then a mere village with a two plank
sidewalk extending along the few blocks which were built up,
and mud, mud everywhere. It was certainly the muddiest,
dirtiest place I had ever seen at that time.
"When father finally reach The Dalles with the ox teams
he bought a good many of the emigrants' cattle and turned
them out on the ranges in the vicinity. But. the hard luck
Avith which he had been followed throughout the latter part of
the journey still pursued the poor man.
"One of the coldest winters on record for that region
set in and the cattle were caught by the heavy snows. The
beasts were weakened anyway with their thousands of miles
travel and in no condition to withstand the rigors of the cli-
mate. There was no hay or feed to be bought for any price
so almost the entire drove perished. This almost bankrupted
father and was a severe blow to the high hopes of wealth and
prosperity he had entertained Avhen he started from Missouri.
Four of his family left back on the plains, his money spent
for the cattle and four helpless children on his hands. For
T was little more than a child in years and having always
lived on a plantation with servants to do everything about
the house and mother to depend on, you may be sure I was
very incapable and inexperienced.
"Came the Spring of 1852 and father was restless and
wanting to go on to the promised land — Puget Sound — so
chartering a flat boat to take us up the Cowlitz river after
we left the steamboat at ]\Ionticello landing, we were again on
our way.
"The memory of that trip will be with me as long as
memory lasts. The flat boat, loaded with our very few house-
hold effects, was poled up the Cowlitz, but there was no room
on the boat for us women and the children, so there was noth-
ing to do but walk along the trail. This trail was through,
in many places, brush so dense, that we crawled on our hands
and knees to get along at all. In other places we were in
mud well up to our knees.
"In addition to this I had to carry my little brother,
100 THURSTON COUNTY
Eobert. The poor little fellow was only three years old and
had never become very strong from his attack of the measles
the snmmer before. I, too, was weak and sick and in my
mind thought I was not long for this world, and I must say,
I didn't care much, life seemed so full of trouble and hard-
ship. When we reached the Cowlitz landing w^e were met by
mule teams which had been sent down from Olympia to haul
our freight. The wagons were so filled and the roads in such
a condition that I still had to walk across the country past
Avhere Chehalis now is and on to Mound prairie. My com-
panion on this dreary jaunt was JMrs. Hillory Butler, who with
her husband w^as also coming to the Sound with us. She was
very kind and good to the motherless girl and helped me earrj^
my little brother. Turn and turn about we plodded all those
weary miles through knee-deep mud, hot, tired and discouraged.
"Coming out on Mound prairie we spied a cabin in a
clearing. The eternal feminine asserted itself even under those
distressing conditions, so before going to the house Mrs. Butler
and myself stopped beside a stream of water flowing by and
wading up to our knees, washed the bottoms of our skirts off
the best we could, they being literally caked with mud, straight-
ened our hair and then proceeded to the house where we pro-
posed to ask shelter for the night.
"In the door of the cabin stood the fairest sight I have
ever seen. It was my own dear cousin and chum, Sarah Yan-
tis. Imagine the greetings received. Although over fifty
years have passed over my head since then and I have changed
from a pretty, young girl to a great-grandmother, I still re-
call the thrill of rapture with which I rushed into Sarah's
arms and listened to her dear voice once again. When the
train w^as divided Uncle Frank Yantis with family had re-
mained behind and on reaching Portland had proceeded
straight on to this section of the country. He had taken up
a donation claim out on the prairie and was comfortably
settled.
"We rested there visiting with Uncle Frank's family for
a while and then came on to Olympia.
"Our first place of refuge on reaching this place was with
a bachelor who had a comfortable log cabin a couple of miles
from Newmarket — now Tumwater. This man's name was Ben-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 101
jamin Gordon, or Old Ben, as he was commonly called, and
he was very good to ns all. Aunt and Uncle Andrew Cowan
had come to this section of the country with us and for quite
a while we all lived in ^Ir. Gordon's cabin — the Cowans, all
the Hays children and father, when he was at home. There
was a garden around the place and we had ail the milk and
butter we wanted from Mr. Gordon's cows.
"I began to grow strong and well again and life opened
up many fair promises. The young men from around the
country began to find their way to the cabin and I had a
great deal of attention and admiration. There were only four
young ladies within a radius of many miles, Sarah Yantis,
Charlotte and Lucy Barnes and myself. The young men used
to come out to the cabin Sunday afternoons in considerable
numbers. Those who had riding horses would ride and those
who had not would walk and seem to think nothing of the
miles traveled over the trail to spend a few hours in my com-
pany. There was generally a generous supply of buttermilk
on hand and the boys made the excuse that it was for this
cooling drink they had come. They were a brave lot of lads,
gallant and stalwart. I felt an interest and friendship for
everyone of them. Ah, me. where are they now? All, all
gone.
"The young man who used to come most frequently to see
me was young Benton Moses, who afterwards married my dear
friend, Sarah Yantis. One Sunday when Mr. Moses arrived on
his usual afternoon visit he was accompanied by another young
man whom he introduced as John Parker. I will never forget
the appearance of this youth that day. He had a beautiful
riding horse, which he managed with splendid skill, but it was
his getup which made the lasting impression on me. ]\Ir.
Parker had a trading store in Olympia and carried principally
articles for barter with the Indians. From this stock he had
selected a pair of riding leggings which came to the knees,
on his feet were beaded moccasins and on his head was a
queer looking Scotch cap. He made a great impression on
my young fancy even at this first visit. Afterwards, when
he became a regular visitant at father's house, IMr. Moses
used to tell with much glee how he inveigled Parker to th"
cabin with tales of the nice fresh buttermilk to be had, but
102 THURSTON COUNTY
said never a word about the young lady who would pour the
buttermilk for him. Mr. Parker at that time was extremely
bashful and had never called on a young lady before.
"By this time father had taken up his donation claim,
which is, as near as I can tell now, was situated where the
road makes its first turn in goiug towards the Hays school
house after passing the Masonic cemetery. I kept house for
him and the children the best I could. Tom Prather, who
was a distant relative, lived with us part of the time, and it
was he who taught me about all I knew about cooking and
j^'-eneral housework. He was always good and kind to all of
us and his unfailing friendship has been one of the brightest
remembrances of my life.
"Olympia then was merely a collection of shacks, with
only two or three places of business of any kind. Mr. and
Mrs. George Barnes were about the only married couple here
when I first arrived, although others soon came. Mr. Parker's
store was opposite the Pacific House, which place was after-
wards kept by Col. Cock, whose .young wife became one of
the warmest of friends to both myself and Sarah Yantis. We
girls used to go in to stay all night at their hotel and ^Irs.
Cock was so good to vis, throwing many a pleasant time our
way.
"About the only amusement we young folks had in those
dajs was hoi^seback riding. There were no roads and, of
course, no buggies or other means of conveyance. The J^oung
men used to come out to our house riding one horse and lead-
ing another for me. Later I learned that they generally bor-
rowed Mr. Parker's horse for me to ride on. But that was
before we had met, after that event it w^as always John who
would come. He had sent to San Francisco for a side saddle
for me, probably the first article of that description in the
Northw'est. One of those three-horned affairs such as girls
used to ride. Sarah could ride a man's saddle with perfect
ease, sitting straight as an arrow and graceful as a reed, but
I wanted a side saddle. I never saw a woman ride astride in
those days and we would have thought it a very immodest
thing to do. Times have changed in many ways since I was
s. girl.
"But I must tell about my wedding. I had lived on the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 103
homestead about two years, keeping house for father and do-
ing the best I could with what I had to do with. Mr. Parker
had kept coming to see me. and although we were not really
engaged, I thought we would be married some time. But
there Avas nothing definite. Father began to grow restless
?gain and wanted to go back east once more. But what to
do with me and the boys? He talked of it for several weeks,
and I could see he was moody and uneasy. ]\Iy cousin, Sarah,
had come from her father's home, still on Mound Prairie, to
>})end a few days with me and we were planning to take a
horseback ride one day in company with ]\Ir. Parker and Mr.
Closes, who were coming out from town a little later. Father
had gone on out to do some burning on the land he was clear-
ing up in the far let. so I was surprised when he came back
to the house and said 'Rushe, get me some hot water for shav-
ing and put me out a clean shirt.' 'Why, father.' I said, 'are
you going to town?' 'No.' he replied, 'I am going to attend
your wedding.' ']\Iy wedding?' I gasped. 'Yes, your wed-
ding. You might as well be married one time as another,
Parker wants you and I want to go east.' I was almost dumb
with astonishment and chagrin. I asked Sarah what I had
better do and she very strongly counseled me not to listen to
such a proposition. I was almost distracted. I didn't know
what to do. I knew I loved John and knew that he loved
me, but I had no Avardrobe and was not ready to be married.
I sat down by the fireplace brooding and thinking, when ^Ir.
Parker arrived. He saw at once something was the matter
and asked me if I was sick. I told him I was not and he
would have to ask father about what was the trouble. He went
out in the yard and hail a long talk with father and then
came in and asked me to sit on the steps of the doorway with
him to talk matters over. He said he Avanted to marry me
more than he ever had wanted anything on earth, but he had
hoped to get in a little better financial shape before asking me
to cast my lot with his. He told me he was a poor man and
in debt — a former partner in an express venture had ab-
sconded with $5,000, for which loss Mr. Parker became per-
sonally responsible. 'But, Rushe.' he said, 'if you are will-
ing to undertake the life I can oft'cr you now 1 will love and
104 THURSTON COUNTY
cherish you forever.' And so I agreed. ]\Ir. Parker then rode
back to town and returned with Judge Landers.
"I got ready the best I could and Sarah helped me. i\Iy
best dress was a black silk which I had made with a low cut
neck and short sleeves. I thought I looked quite nice in that
dress and so did John. Tom Prather cooked our wedding
dinner and, besides Sarah as attendant at the wedding, was
Uncle Frank Yantis. We stayed at father's house the first
night and the next day took our deferred horseback ride to
Mound Prairie and that was our wedding trip.
"Afterwards w^e went to housekeeping in a little cottage
and there in the course of time our first child was born, our
daughter Helen, now Mrs. Herbert IMc^Micken.
"Father then went back east, but returned by the time
of the Indian war in 1855. He organized the first volunteer
troops in the Northwest for the defense of the settlers, and
was honored by being made commander of the united volun-
teer troops before the w^ar was over.
"My cousin Sarah by this time was married to young A.
Benton Moses and was living in Olympia also. When the In-
dian war broke out ^Ir. ]Moses was one of the first white men
to lose his life by the Indians. He was killed out on Connell
Prairie while in company with a small body of men who were
going to join the volunteers. The others were obliged to flee
for their own lives and leave the poor lad there on the prairie.
He was wounded but not killed outright. When he fell from
his horse he begged his companions to save themselves and
sent a loving message to his young girl bride. A few days
later Tom Prather and a small company of men went out
and brought the body back to Olympia.
"Never will I forget the tragedy of that funeral. Besides
Mr. Moses there were the bodies of Lieutenant McAllister and
Col. Miles, who were also killed at the same time. These
bodies, placed in rude coffins, were placed in one of the two
wagons in the settlement. In the other wagon rode Sarah,
Mrs. Cock and myself, the men walking in a procession be-
hind the wagons. Our wagon was without springs of any
kind and such as are used to haul dirt in. There were no
seats and only some boards laid across the bed. Several times
these boards slipped off and let the mourners down in thi^
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 105
bottom of the wagon bed The day was dark and dreary and
the road but little more than a rough trail. It was a terribh.'
experience. To do honor to the brave boys who had lost their
lives in the attempt to protect others, the citizens decided that
a military funeral was proper, so music must be included.
This consisted of a drum and fife. As we wended our way
out to the graveyard over and over again did this drum and
fife sound out the strains of 'The Girl I Left Behind Me.'
That was the only tune they could play and they did the
best they could, but I thought Sarah's heart would surely
break. The graveyard was the one out on the road leading
to what is now Little Rock, near Belmore. Here the three
graves were made close to the road, side by side. And here
soon after was laid the remains of Chas. H. Mason, the first
Secretary of the Territory, a gallant young man of goou
i'amily, who died of fever when only 29 years of age. I think the
Thurston County Historical Society could do no better work
than mark the last resting place of these heroes of the Indian
war.
"But enough of these sad reminiscences. I will now tell
about when the first State ball was held in Washington. It
was in the nature of a housewarming. when Governor and ]\Irs.
Stevens moved into the Governor's mansion, which the Ex-
ecutive officer had built soon after the arrival of his family
from the East. This very same house is still standing on the
l)lock now owned by Mr. Hazard Stevens, on Eleventh street,
lietween ]\Iain and Columbia. It was considered quite a pala-
tial residence when it was completed, and the invitations
to attend the housewarming were eagerly accepted by Oiympia
society. Almost every one was present. Sarah and I with
our beaux attended. The night was dark and the trail rough,
so lanterns were hung every few feet in the branches of
the trees to guide us to tlie mansion. There was a dance fol-
lowing the reception and then a big supper. The dance was
held in the parlor of the house and if room was scarce the
jollity and good fellowship made up for all shortcomings. I
think I can say that in the long and brilliant line of legisla-
tive balls and receptions that has followed this initial one.
there has never been more genuine happiness and enjoyment
106
THURSTON COUNTY
than was the share of Governor and ]Mrs. Stevens' guests that
night.
"My husband at that time kept the Gold Bar store and
when the question of finding some place where the first meet-
ing of the Territorial Legislature could be held, my father
suggested using the room above his store. This suggestion was
adopted and the place made in readiness for that historical
event.
After a few years j\Ir. Parker went to steamboating.
building and operating, I think, the first steamboat on Puget
Sound, The Traveller, on the run between Olympia and Vic-
toria. Later he was owner and captain of the Messenger, go-
ing to Seattle from this place. It took two whole days to
make the trip down to Seattle and return, providing the tides
were right and they had no breakdowns. Then for several
years he was on the Alida, between the same ports. We went
to San Francisco and staid there for ten years, but finally re-
turned to the Sound.
"My dear husband died in Olympia on October 2. 1908.
and is buried out in the Masonic cemetery.
"Besides Mrs. IMcMicken our children are: Gilmore
Hays, Maude, now Mrs. Anderson of Tacoma, Herbert and
John G., Jr., both of Seattle. Gilmore Hays died cpite
recently."
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 107
JOHN MILLER MURPHY
Mr. John ^lillor ]\Iiirphy has been more prominently
identified with the growth and deveh)pment of Olympia and
Thurston County, and for a longer continuous time, than any
of the men who braved the hardships and dangers of the
wilderness. For fifty years Mr. ]\Iurphy, through the columns
of the Washington Standard, worked for the advancement and
prosperity of the community. For over two thousand six
hundred weeks the Standard was a welcome visitor in the
majority of the homes of Olympia and Thurston County. The
editorials in these many issues Mr. Murphy penned with his
own hand.
IVIr. Murphy has recorded the appointments, through the
columns of the Standard, of eleven Territorial Governors, com-
mencing with Governor Wm. H. Wallace, and including Gov-
ernors Pickering, Cole, Moore, Flanders, Salomon, Newell,
Squire, Ferry, Miles C. Moore, and the elections of Washing-
ton State Governors Ferry, JMcGraw, Rogers, McBride, I\Iead,
Cosgrove and Hay. When the Standard was born James Bu-
chanan was President of the United States. A search through
the back files of this paper show the announcements of the
inaugurations of Presidents Lincoln, Johnson, Grant, Hayes,
Garfield, Arthur, Cleveland (twice), Harrison, JMcKinley,
Roosevelt and Taft. Among the most interesting of Mr.
Murphy's reminiscences, as recorded in The Standard, tells
about the young editor being in Portland, Oregon, for the
purpose of attending his own wedding. Just as the young
couple were about to take the stage for their home on I'uget
Sound, a San P^rancisco steamer arrived in port with the late
newspapers on board, bearing black letter headlines, "Fort
Sumpter Fired On."
Mr. Murphy called the boy selling the papers and bought
the entire supply, saying nothing of the great news to the rest
of the passengers until reaching Olympia.
108 THURSTON COUNTY
Arriving here he hurriedly turned his bride over to the
care of the hotel people and rushed for the Standard office.
All the printers in town were set to work at the cases aftd
within a few hours an extra was cried upon the streets of
Olympia with huge headlines announcing the beginning of the
v/ar. "And," added JMr. Murphy, "as I told the story of the
firing on Fort Sumpter all in the headlines, the people saw at
a glance the reason for the extra's appearance and not one
cent did I realized from the issue. Besides, I paid the boys
$1 for selling the papers on the streets. Since that time I have
kept part of my story for the columns of the paper instead of
spreading it all out in the headlines."
The description of the way the news of Lee's surrender
was received in the Capital City was very amusing. There
was no better way to celebrate important events in those days
than in patronizing the saloons, and as the news spread along
the streets a rush was made, first for the Standard oft'ice, then,
all together, to where the men could properly air their en-
thusiasm as well as quench their thirst. There were very
few men in Olympia in early days who never visited saloons,
but on this glad time no one was exempt, and if a man refused
to do his share of the drinking it was up with him to the bar.
spread him flat on his back and pour brandy down his throat
until the crowd felt that a sufficient amount of patriotism
had been imbibed.
To this day the veteran editor's voice falters when he re-
calls the reception in Olympia of the news of the assassination
of President Lincoln and the impression made upon the citizens.
"We had planned a big celebration of some local event,"
said Mr. Murphy, "and had brought the Fourth Infantry band
from Vancouver at an expense of more than $200 to play for
the celebration and ball in the evening. At that time the
first telegraph office in the Northwest was just across from
the old New England hotel. The band was on the balcony of
the hotel playing lively airs to the delight of the entire popu-
lation of the town. The telegraph operator came to the door
of the office with a face as white as a sheet. Without speak-
ing a word to anyone the operator stepped to the band leader
and handed him a slip of yellow paper. The leader glanced at
the slip and gave a hurried order to his musicians. Without
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 109
prelimmary warning they played the strains of one of the
saddest dirges I have ever heard.
"The crowd was appalled and when the last strains died
away a man stepped to the front of the balcony and an-
nounced : 'President Lincoln has been assassinated.' There
was not a dry eye in the assemblage when the people realized
the meaning of the message."
When the Standard was started Olympia was a village
of about 1,000 population. Seattle consisted of two or three
houses with a store and saloon to represent its business, and
Tacoma was unknown. There was a five column weekly pub-
lished in Seattle — The Seattle Gazette — but the proprietor was
unable to handle any job work at all, the consequence being
that for several years every line of job work for Seattle and
all of the territory this side of Portland was sent to Olympia
and turned out in the Standard office.
Among ^Ir. ^Murphy's proud boasts is that he was the first
new^spaper carrier ever employed on the Oregonian, of Port-
land; and that he was an attendant at the first school ever
organized in that city. It was in that city, also, that he
learned the printer's trade, setting his first type on the Ore-
gon Weekly Times, within two years rising from office "devil"
to foreman. The Standard has fought the Democratic fight
for the past half century with the exception of the civil war
period, when Mr. Murphy upheld the Lincoln administration.
John Miller Murphy was born in Indiana and left an or-
l)han at an early age, living with his elder sister, INIrs. George
Barnes. When nine years of age the lad, in company with
Mr. and Mrs. Barnes, crossed the plains Avith the regulation
\oke of oxen and underwent all the hardships attendant upon
the trip across the continent with that means of conveyance.
This trip was made in the year of 1850, and Mr. Barnes de-
cided to settle in Portland, where he started a store, selling
general merchandise. .John was put to work as a clerk in this
store, although little mor(^ than a l)al)y. Among the pleas-
antest of the recollections of these early days are memories
of the good times the lad enjoyed as a singer in the famous
church choir with Dr. Griffin, of the M. K. church, leader.
Mr. ^Murphy, as boy and man. loved music and toolc keen de-
light in musical associations.
110 THURSTON COUNTY
In 1851 ]Mr. Barnes decided to remove his store to Puget
Sound and selected Olympia as the best known settlement
in the new country. The contents of the store, together with
the household goods, were shipped on the sailing vessel JMary
Taylor, around from Portland, but j\Ir. and Mrs. Barnes and
Johnnie rode horseback across country. The boy rode the
same horse as his sister, sitting astride, holding on to the
woman to keep from slipping off. When Olympia was reached
the family had to wait three weeks for the arrival of the ^lary
Taylor with their goods.
The store was the first in Olympia. M. D. Simmons, of
Tumwater, had a trading post for Indian supplies, but the
stock Mr. Barnes brought was the first general merchandise
store on the Sound. The lad, by this time ten years of age,
took his place behind the counter and was as efficient a clerk
as any man would have been.
The experiences the lad had with the Indian customers
were quite amusing. He declares these people are the worst
thieves in the world, or were in those days. When he would
be measuring calico, of which the aborigines bought great
quantities, a squaw would give the cloth a quick jerk to pull
the length a few inches longer than the regulation yard,
much to the disgust of the young clerk, who spent a good
part of his time watching them to prevent them stealing from
the store.
The currency of ^Ir. ^lurphy's early recollection in this
section of the world consisted of Spanish dollars, American
halves and quarters, Spanish doubloons, worth $16, and slugs,
which were eight sided bars of solid gold, and worth $50. For
convenience in making change the ]Moffatt Company of San
Francisco coined five, ten and twenty dollar pieces. While
these were of no value as legal tender, everyone was anxious
to secure the pieces as they weighed exactly the denomination
represented and were of pure gold without alloy. There Avere
very few dimes in circulation, no nickles, and to have tendered
a penny piece to any one in those days would have been
equivalent to an insult.
The Indians preferred silver. They didn't seem to under-
stand gold money, and greenbacks were so uncommon that
they had no knowledge of them as currency. If an Indian
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 111
had a sum due him to the amount of* $5, that sum nuist be
paid him in five one dollar pieces. Should a $5 gold piece
be tendered the brave he would shake his head and say: "Tenas
chickamun. wake ticky" — -"little money, don't want it." ^Ir.
Barnes kept a candle box under the counter filled with silver
dollars to pay out to the Indians. However, the Indians had
no appreciation of the value of money. If they could be in-
duced to work at ail they would work all day for the same
amount they would charge for bringing a single bucket of
water from the spring.
The early settlers all procured their water from the com-
mon spring which flowed clear, cold and delicious on the
present location of the Chambers Block on the corner
of IMain and Fourth streets. The housewives wouhl
hire the Indians to carry the water for them to supply their
daily needs.
The young Murphy, still of tender years, was set to work
clearing off the block of land which was the Barnes home.
With one half breed Indian as an assistant, the lad toiled
all one winter cutting down the huge cedar trees, sawing
them into lengths, rolling them together and finally burning
the piles of wood. The work of digging out the stumps left
by these big trees taxed the lad's strength and endurance al-
most to the breaking point, but finally the task was accom-
plished and the land was afterwards built upon by ]\Ir. Barnes
and became one of the beauty spots of the city.
There were no bridges across the two arms of the bay for
many years after the town had become to be finite a place, and
from where Fifth Street now extends to Capitol Point was an
unbroken line of Indian tepees and shacks. The entire por-
tion of the town was comprised by the blocks between what is
i;ow the corner of Fourth and ^lain Streets down to the water-
front, and before the filling was done the tide came up to
Second Street.
When the Indian war broke out. and reports of the White
River massacre was received here, the Indians were told thev
must go. They remonstrated at leaving land which they had
always looked upon as their own and did not fancy the idea
cf pulling up stakes and moving away, but the settlers were
firm. As the alarm grew the citizens began to build the stock-
112 THURSTON COUNTY
vde which was one of the most uiiicjiie structures in the his-
tory of the Northwest. This stockade extended clear across
from bay to bay the length of Fourth Street.
The stockade was 20 feet high, built of four inch plank.
Crosby's mill at Tumwater was kept running night and day,
and night and daj- did the citizens work at the defense. ]\Ien,
women and boys all helped in the building. When the stock-
i'de was finished all moved inside, those few families who had
their homes outside the enclosure locking up their houses the
best they could and seeking safety with the others. This con-
dition of affairs lasted several months and until an armerl
cruiser, the Joe Lane, came up the harbor. This cruiser car-
lied a lot of arms and every woman and boy Avas furnished
with one of those long barrelled muskets, whose "kick" was
more deadly than the bullet. To add to the defense the citizens
l)ossessed an old cannon, which ancient piece of artillery would
certainly have meant sure death to the gunner if it had been
fired off with any considerable load, was mounted in position
to sweep an approaching enemy, and M'as the pride of the
jjeople. When all was completed, the Indian chiefs and head
men were invited to inspect the defenses and were shown
that the whites were in readinesss and able to protect them-
selves, but still they lingered until the Joe Lane put in an
appearance. AVhen they saw the white man's "big canoe"
and heard the guns thunder forth a volley of salutation as the
cruiser came into port, they decided that quitting time had
come, so "folded their tents like the Arab, and silently stole
aw^ay, " never to return to settle in any considerable number in
the immediate neighborhood of the town.
"When I first came here, among the ladies I can recollect
were ]Mrs. Alexander, !Mrs. Rider, ]\Irs. Forey, ]\Iary and Barney
Wood. There were ahvays enough ladies to fill out at least
two sets of a quadrille at the dances which were then the
popular amusement. And such dances — sometimes lasting not
only all night but two and three nights. Five dollars a ticket
was the usual price, with an elegant .supper at the hotel. No
punch and wafer affairs in those good old days. The Connell
Brothers and their fiddles w^ere called into requisition, but
Oliver Shed was really the star musician at the dances for ha
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 113
(.•ould not only play the fiddle but call the figures as well. There
were no wall flowers. Everybody had a good time.
"Among the business men I can recall during my first
years in Olympia were Lightner, Parker & Coulter Co., mer-
chants, the second firm to open a general merchandise store
after Mr. Barnes; Chas. A. Weed, baker; I. C. Patten, black-
smith; Mr. Thornton F. McElroy, who started The Columbian
c'bout this time, and two saloons, but as I never frequented
them I cannot remember the proprietors' names.
"In connection with my recollections of the Indians I
lecall one incident which has filled me with disgust for the
breed ever since. What was called a sulphur-bottom whale,
probably 90 feet in length, floundered up the bay, one morn-
ing in the early '50s, and on reaching the shallow water was
unable to swim out to sea again and was stranded as the tide
went out. This was a rich find for the Indians. They cut off
great chunks of the meat from the sides of the whale, and
when this part was cut into portions the Indians climbed right
into the location made famous by Jonah, the insides of the
immense fish being considered a special delicacy by the filthy
things.
"Well, I became tired of working for relations and wanted
to go back to Portland, so I bid the Barnes" good-bye and
started out to seek my fortune on my own account. When
I reached there I apprenticed myself out to learn the printing
trade on the Oregon Weekly, with John 0. Waterman, editor,
and owned by Carter & Austin. Later I went to Oregon City
and worked on a paper belonging to D. W. Craig. After a
year I located in Vancouver, Washington, where I started the
Chronicle. At the end of three months I sold out and returned
to Olympia.
"This was in 1860, and soon after my arrival here I started
the Washington Standard, which I personally conducted and
edited until about a year ago.
"When I returned to Olympia I was still uinnarried, but
had my courting done. I was engaged to be married to ]\Iiss
^laguire, a daughter of the family of Oregon printers. As
soon as I had established my business and saw reasonable
prosperity ahead of me, I went to I^ortland for my bride.
"We came from ]\Ionticello landing by stage, making the
114 THURSTON COUNTY
trip in one day. This trip had formerly taken three hard
days' travelling. But the roads had been so much improved
and a generally better service provided that the trip had
lost much of its tediousness.
"For five years The Standard was published in a little
building on the corner of First and jMain Streets. In 1885
I purchased the land where my office and home stand to
this day.
"When I was ready to move my office I procured a scow
and floated it right up to the door of the First street office,
loaded my cases and press and other printing material on it
and poled the scow over to the new office, unloading and
getting the scow out of the way on high tide. That is the time
I cheated the express man.
"I well remember when the first pony express was started
between Monticello and Olympia. The riders made the trip
in half a day, changing their riding ponies every few miles.
Twenty-five cents was charged for carrying a letter and a
proportionate charge for small parcels.
"Music, sweet music, was ever my heart's delight. I
have always taken the greatest pleasure in music and although
I make no claims to ability in that line I certainly enjoyed
plink plunking my guitar. Many a pleasant night, in company
with Jim Hays, Dave Drewry and Henry Willard, have I
gone from house to house serenading the pretty girls. The
other boys all performed on violins and Avith my guitar we
made some very creditable music. At least, we thought we
did, judging from the pleasant receptions we received from
our charmers. We would assemble beneath some fair one's
window and pour forth dulcet strains until we would see a
light appear in the window, a signal that we were heard and
appreciated. Sometimes the girls would invite us in and
give us refreshments along with their thanks.
"Well, the years have gone by. I have retired from the
publishing field, but the lure of printers' ink calls me even
yet, and one of my pleasures is in writing some of the pioneer
reminiscences as they occur to me.
"I served as Territorial Auditor for three terms, and was
a City Councilman in the early '90s.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
115
"Early in life I adopted the slogan, 'Be not fearful to
speak out, but be sure to speak right.' I can think of nothing
more to add. I am down to cases. William ]\Iitchell and my-
self are the only ones still living of the men and women I found
in Olympia at the time of my first arrival."
116 THURSTON COUNTY
THE B. L. BROWN FAMILY
That this compilation of reminiscences should have been
started 25 years ago was never more forcibly impressed than
when the compiler undertook to gather the chief and most
thrilling experiences of those delate pioneers, Benjamin F.
Brown and his wife, ]\Iary Olney Brown. Of the eleven
children born to this couple, only the second to the last child,
Oscar Brown, could be located. Oscar has been away from
Olympia so much of his eventful life, that, perforce, his recol-
lections of the early Olympia days are overshadowed by more
exciting events in his life. Twice around the world, mining
in Alaska, hunting and trapping along the Natches Pass and
still wilder spots, taking adventurous cruises all alone in his
trusty sail boat, ranger and guide in the Olympic reserve,
Oscar's life history alone would fill a good-sized volume.
But had the writer only been inspired to start this worlc
during the life of that noblest Roman of them all, Theodore
L. Brown, what a rich field of tale and anecdote could have
been opened up. He was full to the brim of stories of his early
experiences, and as he was older than the remaining son, could
remember farther back along in the days when his family
lived on the old donation claim, a couple of miles down on the
west side of the bay.
Benjamin F. Brown was born in South Orange, New Jersey,
but removed to Iowa while still a young man. Here he met
and married Miss Mary Olney and after a few years of married
life, the young couple decided to try their fortunes in the
Golden West that was then beginning to attract the adven-
turous with its fair promises and glittering prospects.
The long trip was filled with more than the usual hard-
ships and sorrow, for cholera and scurvy broke out in their
train and many deaths among the emigrants were caused by
these dread diseases. The Browns laid two of their little
children away in lonely graves beside the muddy Platte River
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 117
The grass on the plains was so dried up and the travelling so
hard that all the horses that the couple started out Avith died
along the way, the oxen began to give out, everyone who pos-
sibly could had to walk to save the animals' strength and
finally the cows, which were being driven along to supply milk
to the emigrants and for a start of stock in the new country,
were yoked up with the oxen. Mrs. Brown told her children
many a time, in happier times, about their finding a lone woman
crying beside the road one hot, dreary day. Her family, horsee
all had died, leaving her there on the plains absolutely alone
The Browns picked her up and brought her along to Oregon
with them, sharing with the unfortunate woman theii s^'an+i
store. Another of the many incidents of true nobleness aL.^
generosity that stand out a white mile stone along th^ dari
path of these early pioneers.
This trip was made in 1846, and the first stop for anv
length of time was made at Portland. A few years were spent
at this place, and in the Spring of 1852 Mr. Brown, Washington
i'rench and John French came on up to Puget Sound. The
country was then quite well known and attracting considerable
attention. ]\Ir. Brown's family was left in Portland, while
he located on a donation claim that was for many years to
be the homestead. The Frenchs also took up donation claims
and became among the best known and respected of the early
settlers. Washington French married a sister of Mrs. Brown.
When Brown returned for his family, he found that all
his cattle, which he had left on the ranges near The Dalles,
had perished the previous winter. All the live stock he had
remaining was one poor, lone black cow. At this time an
uncle of Mrs. Brown's, Cyrus Olney, had started a fruit nur-
sery near Portland, the first one this side the Rockies. He
raised his trees from apple seeds brought over the old Oregon
Trail in ox wagons, and as the trees grcAV rapidly and thrived
exceedingly Avell in the rich soil, there was enough stock on
hand to furnish Mr. Brown with a supply to bring to Puget
Sound and sell among the settlers. These young trees were
peddled clear to Steilacoom, over what is now Chehalis and
Thurston and Lewis Counties. One dollar a graft was readily
Maid by the settlers. This was the first start towards the fine
118 THURSTON COUNTY
orchards which have since made Thurston County known for
excellent fruit.
Mr. Brown's next business venture was to build the his-
toric wharf on the Westside in partnership with John French.
At this wharf were unloaded all the freight that came to
Olympia from San Francisco for years, until Capt. Percival
built the dock which is in use at the present time. Here
steamers loaded wood, which J\Ir. Brown had cut and hauled
by the hundreds of cords from the timber in the immediate
vicinity of the wharf. Later Brown sold the timber on his
donation claim to the veteran logger, I. C. Ellis, for 50 cents
per thousand.
Oscar Brown is still able to recall tales his mother used to
tell her children about the exchange of courtesies between her-
self and the officers of the naval ships which would come into
the harbor. Among the army officers she knew was U. S.
Grant, then a stripling of a lieutenant, stationed at Fort Van-
couver. The story runs that Grant was then as wild and dare-
devil as any.
The mother's stories of their escapes from the Indians
and the siege of terror in which the family lived for weeks,
expecting an attack any night from the savages, are among the
children's most vivid recollections. For several nights the
whole Brown family slept out behind a big log, not daring to
stay in their house for fear of a night raid. Finally the danger
menaced so strongly that the family came to town and took up
their quarters in the block house. During this time their son
Theodore was born.
In the year of 1866 the Browns took up a homestead on
White River and loading all their effects on a three-ton sail-
boat, made Johnson's Point the first night, and then by easy
stages the rest of their water trip. An Indian trail was fol-
lowed when the boat was abandoned, and so on to the new
home.
Later, Mrs. Brown took the children to Seattle and put
them in school, the Territorial University being the place
where the younger of the children received the greater part
of their education. Theodore and his sister Harriet, who after-
wards became Mrs. Murphy, developed very pleasing voices
and whenever an entertainment of home talent was put on
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 119
in the historic Yesler Hall they shone as bright partieular stars.
Mrs. Brown was a woman of remarkable energy and pos-
sessed of considerable literary talent. Her poems and writings
for the local papers were much admired by her friends. ]Mrs.
"Coldwater" Brown the lady was called in later years when
the familj' returned to Olympia to live. She earned this title
from the many cures she effected among children ill with fevers
and other ailments. Her cures with applications of first hot.
then cold water, were said to have been quite remarkable.
Far and wide, in the country as well as in town, Mrs. Brown
was sent for, night or day. She always responded to an appeal
for help with unfailing zeal and kind heartedness. Her memory
is still cherished by the descendants of the pioneers.
In searching over an old scrap book compiled by her son
Theodore, was found the poem written by his mother, which
is appended. It possesses true literary merit and is a fitting
testimonial to the lady's ability in this line.
Mrs. Brown died in Olympia in 1884 and was survived by
her husband by about ten years.
In 1891 the youngest son of iNIr. and JMrs. Brown carried
the first flag to the top of ]\Iount Rainier that was left there.
Some years previously one of the Longmires had carried a
United States flag to the top, but had brought it away with him.
Brown and party carried a flag staff with them and with great
difficulty reached the summit. The staff was securely kept in
an upright position with a pile of large rocks heaped around
its base. The colors were hoisted and w^aved out in the fierce
wind which was blowing. Scarcely had the flag straightened
out than the wind snapped the staff off clean and blew staff,
flag and all beyond their reach down the mountain side. Two
years later the flag was recovered and pieces of the banner
sold on the street of Seattle as souvenirs, a piece a few inclies
across selling for one dollar.
A sister, Mrs. Seth Murphy, died a luimber of years ago
in Olympia. Theodore Lee Brown had always had a Idvc for
the old homestead, which had long since passed into strangers"
hands. So in the later years of his life and after many adven-
tures and wanderings, he purchased part of the land and began
to build up a home. "The Firs," one of the best known of
summer cottages on the Olympia water front, was built by him.
12d THURSTON COUNTY
much of the work around the x)Iaee in the shape of rustic seats,
the artistic name over the door and other more practical things
being the work of his own hands. And here it came to pass
his life ended where his life had practically begun after a
pleasant and useful life of 56 years. In 1886 Theodore married
iMiss Martha Strange, of ^lenasha, Wisconsin, and his widow
makes her home during all the summer months at the place he
held so dear — The Firs,
MOUNT RAINIER.
(Poem written by Mary Olney Brown, a pioneer woman).
Beautiful mountain, grand and sublime,
Thou standest alone in thy pride ;
Thy base firmly fixed on the adamant rock,
Thy head in the clouds thou dost hide.
Say, tell me, how long since thou first was upheaved,
From the bosom of earth thou didst rise ;
Since the white snows have crested thy breast
And thy head thou hast hid in the skies?
"Was it when the earth in its primeveal state
First came from the hand of its God?
Ere the trees of the forest had spread forth their leaves.
And the grass and the flowers decked the sod?
How oft have I gazed on thy snow covered peak,
With rapture no language can tell;
And thought couldst thou once be permitted to speak,
Of strange things thou surely would tell.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 121
Thou couldst tell of the time when old ocean's tide
First rolled its bright waves to the shore ;
When beasts of the forest roamed over the earth
And the birds in the air first did soar.
Thou couldst tell of the nations that in ages gone by
First dw^elt on these valleys and plains —
But have passed from the earth like the flowers of the field.
And naught of their grandeur remains
Save a few hoary ruins and burial grounds,
By trees of the forest o 'er grown ;
That tell us that since those nations have lived,
Long ages, indeed, must have flown.
But silent thou standest, in grandeur sublime
And enraptured I gaze on thee still ;
"With feelings no language of mine can express-
^Ty heart strings convulsively thrill.
122 • THURSTON COUNTY
MRS. JANE W. PATTISON
The place Mrs. Jane Willey Pattison holds among the ranks
of Thurston County pioneers is almost unique, for while every
woman who came to this country over the Old Oregon Trail
endured hardships and privations, dangers and sufferings,
Mrs. Pattison 's experiences, as related by herself, were so wild
and thrilling that the pen of the compiler hesitates in seeking
words strong enough and description sufficiently vivid to show
the bravery and genuine pluck of this little woman.
Born in Ayreshire, Scotland, not far from Glasgow,
daughter of well-to-do parents, the little Jane was brought to
New York City when but three years old. Her life in that
city is among Mrs. Pattison 's earliest recollections, and she
can remember it when it was but a scattering hamlet with but
a few thousand inhabitants.
When Jane was seven years of age the Willeys moved into
what was then the wilds of Illinois, taking up the occupation
of farming. Here Jane grew to young womanhood, received
her education and, in 1847, became the wife of James Patti-
son, one of several brothers of a neighboring family.
"You know college-raised people generally are not much
account, but my people were A No. 1," the little woman as-
serted, with a pardonable pride, "and they had me taught how
to do a great many useful things, and a number of accom-
plishments besides. But Father-in-Law Pattison was a man
terribly set in his way and when he said, ' We '11 go out West, '
none of his sons dared to object. We — my husband and my-
self — wanted to go, too, in a way, but I didn't like being dic-
tated to by the old man. but we finally decided to come along,
though father-in-law was always boss of the train, and when
he said stop we'd stop and when he said go on Ave'd travel,
and it was that way the whole time of the long trip from
Illinois. Mr. Pattison called for so many vexatious delays and
was such a poor manager that we got caught out by the winter
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 123
when we reached the Cascade Falls above Fort Vancouver.
When we left Sparta, Illinois, there were the seven Pattison
brothers, Mr. and Mrs. Pattison, senior, myself, with a three
month's old baby in my arms, and another family named
Willey, distant kin folks. This family, however, became dis-
satisfied with father-in-laAv's management and left our com-
pany before we were caught b}' the snow and cold.
''When we reached where The Dalles, Oregon, is (but
which was then a perfect wilderness), the men cut logs and
made a raft for us to go on down the Columbia River. Our
baggage was piled on this rude craft and we humans huddled
on as best we could. We were twelve days travelling nine
miles. The winds were so strong that we were always being
blown back the way we had come. The icy water was often
dashed all over us and we were pretty thoroughly discouraged.
When we reached the Cascades the snow was deep and the
weather bitter cold. One of the Pattison brothers drove our
oxen along the trail beside the river to where they could get
some grass to eat. The brother then returned to help make
the raft and when they went to look for the cattle they had
strayed away and we never did find them. We were first snow-
bound in the latter part of November, and on Christmas day
we reached Portland.
"When at the place where we Avere held up to make the
raft our provisions were exhausted and we had absolutely
nothing to eat. Had it not been for the kindness of an Indian
family who were camped not far from where we were we
would have starved to death. This famil,y had a considerable
stock of salmon, dried and pounded, which I always thought
looked like the stuff they stop up cracks in boats with (oakum).
This family was mighty good to us and let us have enough of
the salmon to keep alive on for four or five weeks. In payment
Mr. Pattison told them to pick out whatever we had that they
wanted, and, if they didn't choose my clothes. So one by one
I had to see the articles of my wardrobe disappear — now a
dress, then a skirt or jacket, and so on till my clothes were
all eaten up and I had a good many, too, for I hadn't been
married a great while and my parents had given me a good
setting out. Well, by the time mj' clothes were all gone, down
to one ragged skirt and jacket, the raft was done and we man-
124 THURSTON COUNTY
aged to get on down the river to where Portland now is, but
there Avere only a few log cabins there then. A man loaned
us a boat and we went on up the river to Oregon City, which
was a settlement of several houses. Our men folks got work
on the road which was being built from this place to Portland,
and we were fortunate enough to find an empty log house into
which we could move. I didn't go outside the house; I was
that ragged and poorly dressed I was ashamed, besides I had
all those men to cook for, the baby to take care of and mighty
few utensils to manage with. I didn't even have a washboard
and it was no light task washing the heavy shirts for those
men, besides Willie's — the baby's clothes. Well, one day a
neighbor woman, Mrs. Moore, called to me across the back
j^ard and asked me if I wouldn't like to do some sewing for
her. I eagerly accepted the offer and she told me she would
give me calico for a dress for myself if I would make her one.
I was just plum tickled and when her dress was done it looked
so nice and neat that the other women in Oregon City asked
me to sew for them, too, so I began to earn enough to get my-
self some decent clothes again. I was always up at daybreak
in the morning and would sew every minute I could spare from
my cooking and other work, and w^hen night came I would
make up a big fire in the old fireplace and sew by the light of
the flames. I had no other light of any kind.
"After about a year of this life Father-in-Law Pattison
decided we would come up into the Cowlitz country. I hated
to leave Oregon City, for the men could get work there and
I was beginning to get a little used to the place, but we had
to come. Our means of travel this time was down the Columbia
River in Indian canoes manned by Indian braves. When we
reached the mouth of the Cowlitz River we found one family
already settled there — the Catlins. They were very kind to
us and showed us man}'' favors. Father-in-law liked the looks
of the country and decided to stop there. A little shack was
built 'way out in the brush and we soon moved in. One day a
white man, heading a train of about one hundred Indians, came
riding up to the shack. The Indians had their ponies packed
with bundles of dried furs which they were taking to the
Hudson Bay trading post, which Avasn't very far away, on th'?
Columbia River.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES J25
" 'Hello,' called the man, 'my .name is Roberts and I am
manager of the Hudson Bay post; can I stay here all night/'
" 'Why,' I said, 'you see, we haven't much room,' but he said
the Indians could camp on the ground outside the house and
if only he could sleep in the house he would be satisfied. AYe
let him do that and a very pleasant and talkative man he was,
too, and very interesting. During the evening he told about
having a ranch or clearing further on up the Cowlitz River
and said he didn't see how he was going to get it worked, for
it took all his time to manage the Hudson Bay property. ]Mr.
Pattison didn't say anything, but I just wanted to break away
from the old folks and take up Mr. Roberts' offer more than
I ever wanted anything in my life. In the morning Roberts
went on his way, telling us that he would be back within a
few days. The old man must have guessed what was in my
mind, for he gave me hardly any chance to talk to my hus-
band alone, but when Mr. Roberts came back again and we
were all sitting around the fireplace in the evening I managed
to get my seat right in front of my father-in-law's where he
couldn't see my face and when ]\Ir. Roberts began talking
again about his clearing. I said, ']\Iy husband and I have de-
cided to accept your offer and go and work your ranch if you
want us to.' Husband didn't say anything, but father-in-law was
terribly mad, but couldn't object right there. So then and
there the bargain was struck. 'When can you be ready?'
asked Mr. Roberts. 'We haven't anything to get ready.' I
told him, 'so we can go any time.' In the morning Mr. Roberts
sent some Indians with us in a canoe, together with what few
possessions we could call our very own. We travelled all day
up the Cowlitz, and when we finally reached the landing were
met by a Hudson Bay man, a friend of Roberts', a ]\Ir. Goliar.
A brother of my husband had taken the trail along the river's
banks with the span pf mules with which we proposed to plow
the land. At the landing we were met by a brother of ]Mr.
Roberts with a yoke of Spanish oxen and only the running gear
of a wagon. I just couldn't stick on that wagon gear, so our
things were tied on as best we could and Willie and I were
put on one of the mules. I had a man's saddle and had to hold
the baby, so couldn't manage the beast very well, and when
we were about four miles from the end of our destination mv
126 THURSTON COUNTY
mule bucked me, Willie and the saddle off. I struck my head
against the root of a tree and that is where I g"ot this scar."
(Mrs. Pattison pushed back her silver hair and showed a very
perceptible scar above the temple). "Husband came back to
see what was the matter, and as we still had four miles to go
and as it was getting on towards night I just had to climb up
on that mule again and ride him on to the clearing. Well,
when we finally got there we found that the house we had
been promised was a good half mile away and not finished at
that and it was raining hard. What to do then? There we
were miles and miles from anywhere with no roof to cover us
for the night. While the men were bemoaning the hard plight
I looked around and spied a sheep shed that had been aban-
doned the year before by the Hudson Bay people, as it was
their custom, when one pasturage was eaten off, to drive the
flock on to some new place. I went over and looked in and
decided that here, at least, was shelter, for there was a fairly
good roof and the dirt floor was dry, although lumpy and
rough from the sheeps' feet. I called the men and started to
fix a pole across one side of the pen to hold our bedding in
position during the night. I then had our bedclothes unloaded
from the wagon and made the bed so the baby could go to
sleep. There was a big log right in front of the opening or
door of the sheep shed, so the men made a big fire there and I
got supper. As the season was getting late, the men had to
go right to plowing, so they left Willie and me there to get
settled as best I could. The first thing was to clean house, so
I hacked a good stout branch off a tree and with long tough
grasses I managed to tie cedar branches to this stick for a
broom. I then swept the roof and w^alls of the shed, smoothed
down the dirt floor the best I could and began to make my
furniture. Not far from the sheep shed there had been a barn
made of boards hewn out by hand and put together without
nails, the joists tied together with rawhide thongs. During
the previous winter this barn had blown over sideways, loos-
ening a number of the boards so I could pull them away. The
only tools I had to work with were a hammer, ax and augur —
no saw, and I would have given an eye tooth for a saw.
"My first work was to put a floor in the shed, so I dragged
these wide boards from the barn and as they were much too
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 127
long, I slipped them along the dirt floor, letting one end push
out under the logs, which didn't come quite to the ground.
Many and many a trip I had to make betvveen the barn and the
shed before I had finished, Willie trailing along after me every
trip, never whining and complaining as most babies would do
these days — just trailing along. When the floor was done 1
hacked with an ax enough boards to go inside, and with these
made a sort of a platform on one side of the shed. On this
I spread a lot of hay that had been left in the barn and there
was our bed. When the barn was blown over it left exposed
some of the round stumps Avhich had been used for corner
foundations. I rolled two of these to the shed — our seats.
After a long time and with lots of work. Mr. Pattison and I
bored auger holes in the boards of the floor in which we fixed
two upright sticks cut from the woods ; on these I put some
boards, letting one end extend out through a crack between
the logs, and so we had a table — all the furniture we wanted
or could use. I did my cooking and Ave kept warm by the
open fire in front of the shed. We lived there all that summer
and until the crops were harvested. Later in the fall we moved
into Mr. Roberts' house, a half mile away from the field, which
the men finished in a rough way for occupancy. While in
this house a band of Indians came by one morning. They
came close to the door to look in, as we w'ere a sort of curiosity'
to them. Willie stood in the open door watching them, and
so came in contact with them. Their papooses had a contagious
disease, but I didn't know it then. The baby caught this
disease and died within a few days. I thought I never could
get over that blow. When the crops were gathered we took
the wheat to the barn of Mr. Gobar, our nearest neighbor.
and flailed the wheat out on his floor. He gave us the use
of his fanning mill and we had a considerable lot of wheat
and potatoes to pay us for our summer's work.
"One day while I was sitting at the door of the sheep
shed with Willie playing at my feet, who should come riding
down the trail but a white woman with a little boy astride on
the horse behind her. It proved to be Mrs. George Barnes,
who Avas just married and coming to Olympia from Portland
AA'ith her young husband. The boy Avas her little brother, John
Miller Murphy. Hoav glad I was to see one of my sex I can
128 THURSTON COUNTY
never tell yon, and years afterwards when we finally settled
in Olympia, ^Mrs. Barnes renewed the acquaintance began in
front of the sheep shed and we became fast friends. oMany a
night ^Irs. Barnes would take her lantern and come along the
trail to my house to visit me during the evening while my
children were sleeping. She was a good woman and I will
never forget her.
"About this time we decided to take advantage of the
Government's liberal offer in regard to donation claims. In
those days to every man was given the chance to take up 640
acres of land and, as an encouragement to the women who had
to endure the trials and privations of the wilderness, for a
very few years the Government made the offer to her of an
equal amount of land as that her husband was given, as a sort
of a recompense for her hardships. Uncle Sam gave us women
this land just as he would a new dress or something else we
wanted real badly, for it was a recognized fact the women
were worth as much as the men in settling up and developing
the new country. Well, with an ox team we came to Tum-
water, or Newmarket, as it was called then. Crosby's mill and
store was about all that there was there. We swam the oxen
across the Des Chutes River and went out on what was even
then called Chambers Prairie, travelling through big woods all
the way. David Chambers was living on the Chambers home-
stead and we took up our donation claims next to his. Pat-
tison Lake was on our place and was named from my hus-
band. Here we built what was to be our home for many long,
hard years — a log cabin, added to from time to time as the
babies began to come. Three of my children were born there.
It was a hard, lonesome life I led there. It seemed that if ever
there was a hard, unpleasant thing to be done I was the one
to be called on. For a few years I had no babies to keep me
tied down, so whenever the neighboring women for ten miles
around were sick, or there was a new baby came, or a death —
any trouble — I was always the first one sent for, and I was
nothing but a kid in years myself."
Here Mrs. Pattison ceased talking for a moments and be-
gan silently musing into the past. Her eyes grew dreamy and
it was plain that once again the heroic woman was ministering
the wants of the friends who long since have finished their
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 129
work. xV query about the Indian war brought her wide awake
again and started her flow of reminiscences.
*'Yes, indeed, I was in the Indian war, and knew the in-
stant ISlr. William White was killed, for I heard the shot and
saw part of the struggle. Mr. White, with his wife and her
sister, i\Irs. Stewart, had been to church that day, the two
women, each with a little child in her arms, were riding in a
cart, with Mr. White walking behind with the lines in his hands
driving the horse, when the Indians emerged on foot from a
little point of timber a little ahead of them. They began to
struggle with JMr. White and the horse became frightened and
ran away with the women. This brought them away safe, and
the last Mrs. White saw of her husband in life he was grap-
pling with a big Indian buck. We knew very well that Mr.
White was killed, but none dared to go after his body that
evening, so all night we waited in fear and trembling, not
knowing what moment the Indians would attack our cabin,
but we were not molested, and in the morning my men folks
started after Mr. White. I told them to take one of my sheets
along, which they did. They found the body where they
thought they would. There had evidently been a great strug-
gle before Sir. White gave up his life, for the ground was all
torn up and trampled. Mr. White's dog had stayed by his
master all night. The Indians had stripped the body of every
stitch of clothing except the boots. Our men placed the body
on a board they had taken for that purpose, spread the sheet
over him and brought the remains to the spring in front of our
house. They called me and I bound up the dead man's head
the best way I could to hide the cruel wounds and bruises the
Indians had made. One arm was broken and he was shot
through a vital part. Then I spread another clean sheet over
the form and the men carried him on the board to a vacant
house belonging to Mr. Chambers. I followed on foot and
that wasn't an easy thing to do. When we got to the house
we were joined by Mrs. White and the neighbors. Among the
most pathetic events of this awful day was the arrival of IMrs.
Bigelow, Mr. White's daughter. Mrs. Bigelow had only been
married a little over a year and was quite a young girl. She
came galloping up with her four-months '-old ])al)y in her
arms, the rain simply pouring down on the mother and child.
130 THURSTON COUNTY
My husband took the baby and helped the distracted girl from
her horse. She ran into where her father's body was laid and
I tell yon that M'as hard. too. I warmed the baby and tended
it all day. That baby is now Mrs. Tirzah Koyal.
"We buried Mr. White out in the little cemetery on Cham-
bers Prairie and then had to return to our homes. When I
started back, one after another of the neighboring women
begged to go with me and stay at our house till the scare quieted
down. So in all we were fourteen who were sheltered by our
two-room cabin. Here we stayed for three weeks while the men
were building the block house. This block house on Chambers
Prairie was standing until a few years ago. As I had a big
Dutch oven I baked all the bread that was consumed by these
fourteen people, and I can tell you I baked every, and all
day, too.
"When the block house was finished we all moved in.
The families who were there at that time and who had rooms in
the block house were Thomas Chambers, the McMillans, Mrs.
White "with her children, the O'Neals, the Parsons and Mrs.
Stewart. Mrs. Stewart gave birth to a baby the day after we
moved in. Almost all our men had joined the volunteers to
fight the Indians and we women, with the children, had to
stay there all the time with one or two men left to guard us.
We brought our water from the creek, the banks of which
had been cleared of brush so the Indians couldn't ambush
there. It was very unhandy to do our work, for each family
had only one room in the block house to live in, and every-
thing — cooking, washing, sleeping — had to be done in this one
room. I got so tired of that way of living that we were the
first familj^ to return to our home, but we were not molested
and soon took up our regular way of living.
"Well, the years passed and we had three children who
were ready to be sent to school, so we sold my part of the
donation claim to David Chambers and moved into town, where
the children could have advantages and see something. We
came to Olympia the week Lincoln was assassinated. I was
glad to come, for we were all good and tired of living away out
there. We bought a place of John Swan, on the Eastside.
which has been the Pattison home ever since, although the
orchard that my husband planted has long ago been divided
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
131
up into city lots and is almost all built over now. When we
moved to our new home, Mrs. Bigelow, Mrs. Horton and a little
later, Dr. Lansdale, were my only neighbors. We have had
seven children, only two, my son James Renwick and Mrs.
Brad Davis, are still living. My husband, father-in-law, all
the Pattison brothers, my babies, all are gone, but I am still
here."
132 THURSTON COUNTY
LOUIS BETTMAN
Louis Bettman came to Olvmpia in 1853 from the land of
his nativity, the province of Bavaria, Germany, while a mere
lad of 20 years of age. In company with his brothers, Mose
and Sig Bettman, he opened a general merchandise store in
the newly settled hamlet of Olympia. The location of this
pioneer store was on the corner of Main and Second Streets.
Indeed, all the business conducted in the hamlet was centered
within a radius of a very few blocks in that neighborhood.
Contemporaneous merchants were George Barnes, Gus. Rosen-
thal and Thomas Macleay and Samuel Percival.
There was very little money in circulation among the
pioneer settlers, consequently much of the trade consisted in
bartering groceries, shoes and dry goods for butter, wool, hides
and some grain. As the price allowed for these commodities
was very low and the demand from San Francisco brisk for
every kind of produce, the profits accruing to the merchants
by the exchange was considerable.
In 1860 Mr. Bettman took a pleasure trip to San Francisco
and while there met and fell in love with ]\Iiss Amelia Coblentz,
who was visiting in that city from her home in Los Angeles.
After a very few weeks' courtship Mr. Bettman persuaded
Miss Coblentz to accompany him on his return to Olympia.
The young couple started for Puget Sound immediately after
their wedding. A journey of four days on a sailing vessel
before Olympia was reached.
In Mrs. Bettman 's own words: "We landed at Brown's
wharf, down on the west side, which was the only landing
place for large vessels then. My first breakfast in the town
was taken at the Pacific House, on the corner of Fourth and
INIain Streets, with 'Aunt Becky' Howard as landlady-.
"We soon went to housekeeping in a tiny house owned
by Judge Landers, which stood for many years on the site
now occupied by the Mitchell Hotel. The place was then well
IvOUIS BETTMAN AND WIFE
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 133
back in the woods and surrounded by tall, ugly stumps. I
sometimes thought I'd just die of homesickness when I first
came here, everything was so new and strange and rough. I
thought I never could endure to spend my young life amid
such scenes. But when the children began coming and my
household cares kept increasing this feeling gradually wore
awa}' and before I realized it I had gained quite a circle
of pleasant acquaintances and began to feel at home and
satisfied.
"The people in the town then were like one big family.
Every once in a while we would get together for an all-night
dance. Everybody danced with everybody else. There were
no cliques — nobody ijut on stjde, and everything was free
and easy. My intimate friends among the pioneer women
were Mrs. George Blankenship, Mrs. Rosenthal, Mrs. Chas.
Burmister, Mrs. George Barnes and ]\Irs. Captain Doane."
Mrs. Bettman was reticent in talking about herself and
husband, but it needs no historian to recall to the memory of
the old timers that Mr. Bettman was always prominently identi-
fied with the prosperity of the growing city and at the time
of his death in 1904 had accumulated a considerable property
and left a reputation for business integrity and personal honor
which entitles his memory to a niche in the hall of fame of
Olympia pioneers.
Three children were born to ]\Ir. and Mrs. Bettman : Belle.
Mrs. Oppenheimer ; Josephine, who died several years before
her father, and W. W. Bettman, the latter still conducting the
store founded by his father over 60 years ago. Mrs. Bettm.an
is best known locally through her untiring labors in the Ladies'
Relief Society. For many years she has been chairman of the
relief committee of this society and wherever and whenever
she hears the call of want or distress Mrs. Bettman responds
with ready sympathy, judicious expenditure of the society's
funds and unfailing judgment.
134 ' THURSTON COUNTS
THOMAS PRATHER
A dark, rainy afternoon was devoted to g-atliering such
fragments of the reminiscences of that Nestor of Pioneers,
Thomas Prather, as stood out most prominently in his recol-
lection.
Had the compiler of this sketch kept to original inten-
tions and recorded word for word the story of Mr. Prather 's
experiences as told by himself, the reader, as was the writer,
would be led a merry chase from Boone County, Missouri, to
California, back to the boyhood home again, then to Oregon,
down to Panama, out to sea, struggling with sea sickness,
to the Colville gold fields, fighting Indians, making love to
the Pioneer maidens, canoeing, surveying, logging, always in
the front ranks of action, and ever and always every whit
a man, and now, in his declining years drifting into a quiet
eddy, spending his days at peace with his God and his fellow
man.
As the tale progressed and Mr. Prather 's memory travelled
back to the scenes and incidents of those stirring times a
reminiscent glow came into his eyes, his form straightened
and many times he would stride around the room in the ex-
citement of calling once again from the shades of the past
those friends who, shoulder to shoulder with him, laid the
foundation of our city and made possible the prosperity and
advantages the descendants of these men and women enjoy
today.
Although Mr. Prather 's reminiscences were often rambling
and embroidered with many irrevelant particulars, his memory
was surprisingly good and his unswerving loyalty to his old
time friends and associates was a beautiful tribute to the
warm feelings these Pioneers entertained for each other. The
essential incidents of Mr. Prather 's life as told by himself
are as follows :
"I was born in Boone County, Missouri, in 1832, which
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 135
makes me in the neighborhood of 82 years of age. I was
the fifth son of my parents, and a hard struggle we had for
existence on my father's plantation in the then territory of I\Iis-
souri. My father died when I was only eight years old, and I
can remember spending many a day in the hot sun dropping
corn for 25 cents for the ten hours' work.
"In 18-19, came the story of the gold strike in California,
and my brother James took the gold fever and left for the
West. The following Spring of 1850, I said: 'Now, Tom, no
more working for 25 cents a day, when you might as well be
getting from $6 to $8 a day in the gold fields.' So in spite
of mother's remonstrances, I left the school room, joined
an ox train, and came to California, spending seven and a
half months on the journey.
"AVhen I got there, sure enough, I went to work at once
for $6 a day, and soon had saved up $250, which was more
money than I'd ever had at one time before in my life. I
was sick, however, and thought I had better pull out of there
and go home. I went by water this time, by the way of
Psnama.
"I had no sooner got back to Missouri than the lure of
the "West called me again, so in the Spring of 1852, when Judge
Gilmore Hays and Andrew Cowen, as partners, organized a
wagon expedition to come to the almost unknown country
called Oregon, I tendered my services, which were accepted.
"This train consisted of fourteen wagons, with a total
of 99 human beings, men, women and children. Among the
emigrants were the four Hays brothers, all of whom remained
in the West and became identified with Thurston county's
early history, four Yantis brothers. Dr. N. Ostrander and
twenty-five young men, the latter paying the partners, Hays
and Cowen, $125 each for grub and for having their blankets
hauled across the continent. They all rode their horses, as
did I, myself. Most important of all the train's people to
Tom were five (in my eyes), beautiful young ladies, who rode
with us every day on their own horses. As I was generally
a handy man about the train, I said to myself, 'Well, Tom.
here's where you have a picnic,' so I made the charge of these
girls my special duty, helping them mount their horses in the
morning and to dismount when camp was reached. These
girls were Kate Yantis, her cousin. Sarah Yantis, afterwards
136 THURSTON COUNTY
Mrs. G. C. Blankenship, two Ostrander girls, and Jerusha Jane
Logan Hays, the beautiful daughter of the captain of the
train.
''One other special duty was assigned me by Captain
Hays and it was to see that, every morning as camp was broken,
that a pair of saddle bags were securely strapped onto a
stripped mule, which was always ridden by the oldest Hays
boy, and well I should be careful of these saddle bags for in
them were $12,000 in $20 gold pieces, which Captain Hays
was bringing with him to buy cattle and stock the homestead
which he proposed preempting when the Golden West was
reached.
"Well, before the train reached The Dalles, which was
our destination, I became infatuated with the appearance of
the Grande Rounde valley and persuaded the captain to sell
me a wagon-load of flour, bacon, sugar and coffee. I set a
small 'A' tent up beside the road and soon disposed of the en-
tire stock at ciuite advanced prices to the emigrants who came
along the train and were running short of provisions.
"I again joined Captain Hays at The Dalles and helped
him drive a drove of cattle, v.-hich he had purchased down
ttc Columbia river, to the site of the City of Portland, although
tiien but a settlement of a few log houses.
"In the Spring of 1853, I came to Olympia, which was
only a few years old. Did I come in a steam car? Did I
come in an automobile, or even did I come in a dead ex wagon?
No, sir, Tom walked every step of the way from the Cowlitz
landing, carried his blankets and worldly possessions and
thought it but a pleasure jaunt.
"When I got here there was just one white woman in
Olympia." (Mr. Prather's memory probably failed him here
for there were several women living here at that time, ]\Irs.
George Barnes, Mrs. Alexander, INIrs. Rider, Lucy and Char-
lotte Barnes, Mary Wood, Mrs. Pullen, afterward Mrs. R. H.
Wood and several others who contemporaneous pioneers were
enabled to remember).
"There were about forty-five white men, and three chil-
dren. I am sorry, but I have forgotten the woman's name.
There was a big band of Indians camped on the west side,
coming to this side in canoes for the purpose of bartering
fish, oysters and berries for sugar, flour, bacon and calico.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 137
"I especially remember J(ihn ]Miller Sliirphy among the
white people I found npon my arrival in Olympia. He was
then a fat, red-cheeked lad of probably ten years of age, liv-
ing with his sister, Mrs. Barnes, and a favorite with everybody.
"The donation claims of Edmnnd Sylvester, Edwin Marsh
and James Swan covered all that portion of the territory which
is now known as Olympia, East Bay avenue and the East side.
Old timers still refer to Swantown and IMarshville in speaking
of these sections.
"Charles Weed was the baker for the settlement and the
bread he turned out of shorts was considered a great luxury
by me. Of course, when a sailing vessel would come in from
San Francisco there would be some white flour, which was
eagerly bought up by the storekeeper, George Barnes and
Weed, but there was never enough to last till the next ship
arrived. However, the store of clams was inexhaustible and
the settlers were beginning to raise potatoes and garden truck,
and once in a while a steer was killed, so we had fresh beef
occasionally, and there was plenty of the best fish in the world,
but clams and hard tack were the staples of life.
"In those days the newspapers came from San Francisco
about every six months, so we were always a half year be-
hind the happenings of the outside world. It was considered
quite an event when finally a mail route was established and
v\^e got our papers onl^^ three months behind date of publica-
tion. My first work upon arrival in Olympia was logging
for Captain Percival, up the creek, which even then, and still,
bears the name of this noted pioneer sea captain. After spend-
ing a few weeks at this work winter set in and the camp closed
down. George Barnes then offered me $100 for clearing the
block of land he had recently acquired, bounded by Fourth,
Fifth, Adams and Jefferson Streets, which Avas for so
many years the Barnes home, and which is now, so it is said,
to be the site of the new railroad depot. As this piece of
ground was then covered with high cedar trees and part of
it submerged by the high tides, I refused the offer and spent
the winter with a small crew of men slashing thirty-five acres
of forest land for Nathan Eaton, nine miles from town, out on
Chambers' Prairie.
"As soon as Spring arrived I took a job as axman and
138 THURSTON COUNTY
helped make the first survey of an airline from Portland to
Paget Sonnd. I stayed with this surveying party two years,
when the Indian war broke out — in 1855. Then I quit sur-
veying to volunteer under Judge Gilmore Hays, who was
raising the first volunteer company in the territory.
"The call for volunteers was made b}'' Acting Governor
Charles H. Mason, as Governor I. I. Stevens was at that time
in the Blackfoot country, trying to make treaties with the
Indians there.
"This was in 1855, and our company comprised 80 volun-
teers. We were mustered in at Fort Steilacoom, Judge Hays
being commissioned captain. Our company was then sent
east of the mountains, as it was there that all the trouble
with the Indians was reported, the Puget Sound, or "Fish"
Indians, as they were called, being apparently friendly to the
whitest.
"But we had no more than crossed the mountains than
along comes Bill Tidd, the pony express rider, with a message
from Acting Governor Mason to the effect that Col. Steptoe.
in command of the United States troops, was surrounded at
Walla Walla by 1,000 Indians and that the Puget Sound In-
dians were also on the warpath. We were to hasten back to
protect the settlers in the White River country. Returning to
this side of the mountains, through the Natchez Pass, we
camped for the night at Connell's Prairie, just about where
the interurban line traverses the White River valley. In the
morning Captain Hays detailed me and four other men to
guard the supplies and with the rest of the company, which
had now been increased in numbers by the addition of Lieu-
tenant Slaughter and twenty soldiers from the United States
troops, started to ford the White River to battle with the In-
dians. As the men plunged into the river, the Indians, con-
cealed along the banks on the far side, opened fire and about
a dozen of our men were killed, after which the Indians re-
treated through the jungle. As they carried their dead and
wounded with them, we had no means of knowing how many
of the enemy our men picked off, but from blood prints along
the train they certainly met with a considerable loss.
"Captain Hays and his men came back to the camp for
the night, and in the morning, each man taking one day's
rations with him, w^e started after the Indians along a trail
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 139
SO wild and narrow that we had to go sing-le file most all the
way. We could hear the Indians not far ahead of us — their
ponies crashing through the brnsh and dogs yelping. In this
way we came to a branch of Stuck river, I think it must have
been. The Indians were not in sight, but it was expected they
v\"er3 ambushed on the other side of the river. Captain Hays
called for volunteers to wade across the river and draw the
Indians' fire, if indeed they were hiding in the brush. After a
moment's hard thinking I said: 'Yes, Captain Hays, I'll go.'
Then Lieutenant Slaughter, "William Billings, Joe Gibson and
Joe Brannon joined me.
"When I stepped into the water I went in over my waist
mto a chuck hole made by the Indian horses. IMy blunderbuss
got wet, but I held it over my head the rest of the way across
the river. Every step I expected the next instant would be my
last, but v/e reached the far shore in safety and vvxre joined
by the rest of the company. The boys began firing wildly into
the brush, but as I didn't see anything to shoot at. I saved my
bullets and waited before firing. So it came abor^t that I was
never really in an Indian fight, for after crossing the river the
trail grew so bad that Captain Hays decided we had better
return to Montgomery's, a Hudson Bay man's place, and v/ait
further orders. Soon after this the entire company was or-
dered to Mound Prairie, near Tilley's ranch, for winter
([uarters.
"At this time Captain Hays was made Major General of
the united companies of the volunteers of the territory, but as
the time for which I had enlisted had expired and the war was
practically in the hands of the regular troops, I was honorably
discharged and did not re-enlist.
"My next venture upon returning to Olympia after my
discharge was to join Captain J. G. Parker for a trip to Vic-
toria, B. C. Captain Parker had sent to San Francisco for a
tiny steamboat, which was loaded on a sailing vessel and landed
at tlie Etheridge & Miller sawmill, a mile below Priest's
l^)int, and there fitted up for the sea. This small craft was the
very first steamboat on Puget Sound. Captain Parker named
her 'The Traveler,' and as soon as she was fitted up put her
luider charter of the United States government to bring mili-
tary supj)lies from Victoria, for which the government was to
pay $50 a day.
140 THURSTON COUNTY
"I was made mate of the erew, and, of course, Parker was
captain. Soon after leaving Port Townsend, which then the
only port of entry, the engine gave a fearful screech and went
dead. There we were, out of sight of land, no canoe or other
means of leaving the boat, the waves of the Straits of Juan de
Fuca all but rolling over us, helpless, and at the mercy of wind
and tide. Then and there I made a vow that if ever I reached
land again no more sea life for Tom. But in the morning
we were sighted by a sailing vessel, the Potter, and towed into
Victoria harbor. There we found that the boiler had split
in two places wiiich had allowed all the steam to escape.
"We got the boiler repaired, loaded and was about to
start on our return trip when there passed by our boat an
Indian brave with a big canoe in which were his squaw and
pappooses. I hailed the buck and in Chinook asked him,
'Where go?' 'Townsend,' he replied. So I told him I would
tow his canoe and give him and his family passage on our big
canoe to Port Townsend. He was tickled at the chance and
I was tickled, too. I didn't want to go drifting around those
waters again without some kind of a boat on board.
"This ended my steamboating, although Captain Parker
made several other trips on the Traveler, which finally sank
near Port Townsend, where for years the top of her smoke-
stack could be seen at low tide, although she finally slipped
off into deeper waters and the exact spot of her grave is not
known at this day.
"I then went back to surveying, and in 1858, helped lo-
cate the military road from Fort Steilacoom to Fort Belling-
ham. I am the man who drove the first stake in a preliminary
survey of the Northern Pacific Railroad, under supervision of
Jared S. Hurd. This was near Snoqualmie Falls, in King
County. About this time I acquired the lot of land on Wash-
ington Street, which for so many years was known as the
Prather home.
"For twelve years I was county commissioner, which is
the only public office I have ever held. I think I may state,
without undue boasting, that it was largely through my ef-
forts that Thurston County received the $150,000 from the
sale of public lands to build the county court house, the same
building which is now the state capitol building, having been
purchased by the state about fifteen years ago.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
141
"In the early seventies I became a guard at the asylum
for insane at Steilacoom and took my third trip East in 1876,
to attend the Philadelphia exposition. Soon after my return
to Washington I was married at Steilacoom to Miss Agnes
Winsor, who was also an attendant at the asylum, although
for the twelve previous years had been teaching school. To
us were born three children, Edith and her twin brother, who
died in infancy, and my son Samuel. Edith is now Mrs. Wal-
ter C. Thompson, and lives in the Puj^allup valley, and my
son is in Alaska."
142 THURSTON COUNTY
WM. H. MITCHELL
The following biographical sketch of Mr. Wm. H. JMitchell,
one of onr most respected citizens, was typewritten by his
son, A. B. Mitchell, who is wholly blind, and is so crippled
from rheumatism that he cannot walk or care for himself.
This is a remarkable verification of the fact often noted that
the loss of any one of the five senses renders more acute the
others. In this, the sense of touch or feeling has produced a
manuscript that is the equal of most experts on the machine.
It is, therefore, published verbatim:
"I was born in Chicago, 111., NovemDer 13, 1834, and a
few years later moved with my parents to w^hat was then
South Port, Wisconsin. The name has, however, since been
changed to Kenosha. When I had reached the age of 18, I
had contracted a severe case of Oregon fever and had made
up my mind to take the long trip across the plains, my ob-
jective point being Olympia. My parents objected at first to
my going, but later acquiesced and assisted me in preparing
for the trip. Accordingly, arrangements were made wdth
Samuel Holmes for me to travel with his family as they were
leaving that Spring for the same part of the country to which
I wished to go. A horse was also provided for me to ride and
on the 9th of April, 1853, we left South Port and traveled
about nine miles that day, and on the next day, Sunday, my
father and mother, with my sister Eliza, drove out with a
horse and buggy and overtook our slower moving ox team.
They took dinner with us there at the beginning of our long
journey. They then returned home while we once more turned
our faces to the setting sun.
"The trail across Iowa was a slow and tiresome one on
account of the soft condition of the roads, the wagons often
going down to the hubs in the mud. There were plenty of
others, however, like ourselves, making for Council Bluffs, and
there would often be quite a train of us. We were generally
WM. H. MITCHELL
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 143
delayed in the mornings. I remember JMrs. Holmes, who
would still insist on bathing her children every morning. She
found this to be impossible later on, however. Council Bluffs
was at that time a central pjint, where the emigrants got to-
gether and formed their wagons into trains for the trip across
the plains, and here could be found all types of the frontier
life mingled together. It was here that a three-card monte
man relieved me of nearly all the money that 1 had. This was
a seiious loss to me, but I think I profited by the experience.
"We crossed the Missouri River, June the third. Our
train, consisting of about twenty wagons, was well organized,
having a captain and train master. Our course now led up the
north bank of the Platte River and there was no sign of hu-
man habitation to be seen anywhere. We met a trader occa-
sionally, sometimes on horseback and sometimes they would
1 ave a tent stretched beside the road vs^ith their goods dis-
played in front, but as they charged so much for everything
they had to sell no one purchased of them until compelled to
do so by sheer necessity. There were also bridges built over
some of the rivers and at such places there would be one of
these men to collect a toll before allowing you to pass over
the bridge. There were a few Indians also, but they were
not hostile at that time and never attacked us. We also saw
quite a few buffalo and at one time it was necessary for us to
open up our train that a herd of them might go through, oth-
erwise they would have run right over us. I presume there
must have been a thousand buffalo in that herd. It was in
this section of the country that we encountered a severe thun-
der storm in which the tent where i\Ir. and IMrs. Holmes vv'ere
sleeping was blown down and they were forced to come into
the wagon where I was, to get away from the rain. We ar-
rived at Fort Kearney on July 4th, having traveled a little
over a thousand miles since crossing the Missouri River.
"We now began to see more signs of the hardships to
which those that had preceded us had been subjected, as the
trail was strewn with deserted wagons and stoves, in fact,
with everything that could be spared to make the load lighter
and everywhere was to be seen the bleached bones of cattle
that had either died or had been killed for food. The Indians
were also more watchful. On one occasion two young men of
our train, thinking thov could get along faster on foot, started
144 THURSTON COUNTY
on ahead one morning and that afternoon Ave came upon them.
The Indians had killed one and the other was so badly wounded
that he died soon after. We buried him in his blankets beside
the trail on the bank of the Snake Kiver and the next day w^e
were overtaken by another train and they told us that the
Indians had dug him up and taken his blankets and left his
body on top of the ground. I have often wondered since,
though I thought nothing of it at the time, why they never
picked me off, as I was in the habit of riding ahead of the train
and after fastening my horse to my wrist, I would lie down and
wait for the train to come up. The only time that I was shot,
however, w^as accidental. I was stooping down to get a drink
from a river when my revolver slipped from its holster and
was discharged, the ball lodging in my right forearm. It was
removed by one of the men with his pocket knife, this being
the best medical instrument to be had. The Indians were
around us and we would often see their camp fires at night
in the foothills surrounding our camp.
"We crossed the Snake River by caulking our wagon
boxes with rags and using them to ferry the women and chil-
dren across while the cattle were made to swim. Our stock of
provisions becoming depleted, Mr. Holmes was compelled to
buy from a trader at La Grande, Oregon. It was at this place
that one of the men of our train had his wife stolen by the
trader. I remember hearing him calling through the camp
for her, but she had gone and taken the youngest child with
her and he did not tind her.
"At Fort Walla Walla our train divided, part going down
the Columbia River while the rest of us went on north and
through the Natchez pass in the Cascade mountains. When
we arrived at the foot of the mountains we sent two men for-
ward to see if we could get over and they returned, reporting
too much snow for the wagons, so it was decided to leave our
outfits at a Catholic mission that was there and proceed on
foot, letting the women ride whatever there was to ride.
"Mr. Wooden and myself were the first to start over the
pass and we found the way not nearly as bad as had been
represented and by taking advantage of cut-of¥s, we made
very good progress and without misadventure until the last
night in the mountains we became separated. Mr. Wooden
took what he thought to be a cut-off while I stayed on the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 145
trail, and, at night, as he did not rejoin nie, I called him but
received no answer. So I went to sleep at the foot of a tree
and the next morning when I awoke I found that I had rolled
several feet down the mountain from where I went to sleep and
it was raining hard, so after stretching a piece of canvas over
some brush to keep the rain off, I built a fire and was cooking
the last of my store of rice when ]\Ir. Wooden came into my
camp. We ate the rice that I had prepared and started on our
way again, and that afternoon met a Mr. Connel, who gave us
a little flour which Ave cooked on the end of sticks and ate.
Mr. Connel was a very good friend to the emigrants and often
helped them with provisions, as he had a cabin on the west
side of the mountains, on what is now Connel 's prairie. He
was killed by the Indians in the uprising of 1855-6. M^e took
supper at his house and then, after hiring horses from some
friendly Indians, pushed on to Fort Steilacoom. I reroained
there but a short time, however, but went in a canoe with a
Mr. Skidmore to Mud Bay, where I expected to go to work
in his logging camp, but this I did not do, but went with him
the next day in a canoe to Olympia, arriving there on the 6th
of October.
"j\Iy first job, after arriving in Olympia, was to split and
carry in a load of wood for J. J. Westbrook, who ran a saloon
on the east side of Main street between Second and Third.
After that I worked at whatever I could get to do. I joined
the volunteers to fight the Indians in the uprising of 1855-6.
serving but twenty-one days, when we mustered out. After
this I was deputy sheriff under Isaac Hays.
"In 1856 I went into business with John Stewart. I was
tending bar at the time for Mr. Westbrook and Stewart asked
me if I wanted to go into business, to which I replied that I
(lid. but that I had very little money. John, however, said he
would speak to Mr. Hurd, who wanted to sell his baker shop,
and Mr. Hurd agreed to give us time to pay for the business,
so we bought him out and John, l)eing a baker, took charge of
that part of the business, while I did the best I could by tend-
ing the butcher shop, which we had also. The first year we
cleared enough to pay what we owed and also to buy the two-
story building which is still standing on the southwest corner
of Third and ]\Iain streets.
"Perhaps it would be well for me to say a word about the
146
THURSTON COUNTY
rest of those who were in our train when we crossed the Cas-
cade mountains. Mr. Holmes and his family settled near
Olj'mpia. Bird Wright and his two brothers, with their fam-
ilies, located in the Puyallup valley, as did a Mr. JMorrison,
who was a minister. Mr. Wooden went first to the Nisqually,
but later moved to Seattle, where he started the first tannery.
His son-in-law, a Mr. Schock, also settled a few miles out from
Seattle. Mr. B. L. Johns, with his eight children, one of whom
afterward became my Avife, located a claim on White River,
near Seattle. Mr. Livingston settled in Seattle, while his two
daughters, one of whom married Will H. Brannon, located near
White River. Mr. and Mrs. Brannon, with their children, were
killed by the Indians, and Joe Brannon, Will's brother, after
the war, came to Olympia.
*'0n the 13th of April, 1859, I was married to Martha T.
Johns, in Olympia. To this union, five children were born,
William Walter was born Feb. 29, 1860, and died about eight
months later. Frank Wellington was born July 4, 1862, Henry
William, July 30, 1865, Cora Edith born July 7, 1867. and
Albert Bennett, born Aug. 7, 1870. There are also living nine
grandchildren.
"My son, Frank W., died on March 19, 1914, in Portland.
Oregon. My daughter, Cora Edith, is now Mrs. A. L. Young
of San Francisco, California."
PIONEER REMINISCENCES ' 147
ANDREW CHAMBERS
Had the pioneers who built up this country, and through
whose labor and enterprise Washington has grown from a
beautiful wilderness into a land of homes and cultural ad-
vantages, only taken the time and trouble to write down the
history of their early trials, adventures and hardships, and —
in many instances — final success, as did Andrew Chambers
and his wife, ]\Iargaret White Chambers, the work of com-
piling these reminiscences would have been reduced to the
mere collection of the sketches and presenting them in book
form. But too often, although these men and women realized
their experiences were unique in the history of the world,
and the days they might tell of were a closed chapter in
history which could never be repeated, owing to the march
of civilization, the task of actually writing down any record
of events seemed too formidable or were put off to a later
time — which time never came.
But the children of the honored couple whose stories are
given in connection with this article, were insistent with their
parents, and aided them in every way possible to put their
reminiscences in lasting form. Well they did so, too, for now
both Mr. and ]\Irs. Chambers are gone to their last rest, leav-
ing only cherished memories.
The histories give a completer and more vivid descrip-
tion of the life of those days than would be possible to ob-
tain in any other way. Of a high order of intelligence and
with a natural eloquence, the writers of the sketches were en-
abled to { -'esent the pictures of those wild days with a charm
and clearness that no words of the writer could add to, so
the reminiscences of Mr. and INIrs. Chambers are given word
for word as they have written them.
Mrs. Chambers dictated her sketch to her youngest
daughter, Nora, and the other daughters were so pleased with
their mother's story that they had it preserved in the form
of a booklet.
148 THURSTON COUNTY
The ten daughters of whom the mother speaks of so lov-
ingly, were : Elizabeth, now Mrs. J. H. Hnnsaker, of Everett ;
Eliza, now Mrs. R. T. Grainger, of Puyalkip; Addie J., now
Mrs. G. N. Taleott of Olympia ; Ella, who was Mrs. II. Ray-
mond, but who has been dead for many years; Rheta, now
Mrs. C. L. Denny of Seattle ; Selma, who died about ten years
ago ; Margaret, now Mrs. Wm. Calhoun, of Seattle ; Estelle
and Edith, both of whom died in infancy, and Nora, now ]Mrs.
W. T. Hoskins, living at present in Sacramento.
Mr. Chambers realized the wishes of his wife as expressed
by herself, and ended a long and honorable career by passing
away peacefully in the old home on Chambers' Prairie. He
died in April, 1908. Margaret White Chambers survived her
beloved husband a few years longer, but sank to rest in De-
cember, 1912. Husband and wife sleep side by side near the
scenes of their many trials, joys and sorrows, in the family
plot in ]\Iasonic cemetery, near Olympia.
Andrew Chambers' Story
My father's reading Lewis and Clark's Journal was the
means of our crossing the plains. We started the first of
April, 1845. Our company consisted of my father, Thomas IM.
Chambers, mother, Letitia Chambers, five brothers, James W.,
David J., Thomas J., Andrew J. (myself), John and IMcLain.
and two sisters, Mary Jane and Letitia. My brothers, James
and David, were married, and their wives, Mary and Eliza-
beth, accompanied them. We started from Morgan County,
Missouri, and crossed the IMissouri River on a ferry at St.
Joe. This place marked the last of the settlements. From
this point we travelled the old emigrant road up the Platte
River. Our journey led us through what are now the states
of Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and
Washington. Then this was a wilderness with only the old
tracks of emigrants that had passed that way in 1834-5. We
crossed the Kaw River about forty miles from St. Joe on a
ferry; after that we forded all the streams to which we came.
The first day that w^e saw buffalo was on the South Platte
River and it was buffalo as far as the eve could reach. We
^^^^^^Hiii^
HI
#^
wigi #T
"«i ^«
flH^ll^^ ^<
ANDREW CHAMBERS AND WIFE
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 149
camped and killed fifteen that evening. It took two days to
jerk all the meat we wanted.
Buffalo and antelope were plentiful for twelve or fifteen
hundred miles. Hunters sometimes put a handkerchief up on
a stick and the antelope came around to see what it was, and
often we killed them by shooting from the wagons. We had
to go out to the edge of the hills to hunt buffalo, except the
first day we saw them, of wdiich I have spoken.
Opposite Ash Hollow we crossed the Platte River, which,
though wide and shallow, was difficult to ford. on account of
the quicksands. We passed near to Chimney Rock, which rose
like a great chimney from the level country. We could see this
land mark for a number of days and passed it within five or
six miles.
At Fort Laramie, on the North Platte River, measles brok'^
out in our family and we had to lay by fifteen days. We had
overtaken other west-bound wagons on our journey and our
party now comprised thirty wagons. While being detained
here about one thousand wagons passed us and most of our
company joined a party and left us at Laramie.
From Fort Laramie we traveled to Fort Hall, in Idaho.
We had tried travelling with large and w4th small companies
and found that we got on much faster with small companies,
but it was very hard to stand guard with only a few in the
party. We fell in with a company of fifty wagons. Their
teams had been scared by the Indians and had got in the habit
of stampeding. They stampeded one day while we were with
them. It was a terrible sight to see fifty teams running, each
team of three or four yoke of oxen — about three yoke of cattle
was an average team. There was no way of holding them ex-
cept to hang on to the yokes and call to the cattle. It was an
anxious time for the women and children in the wagons. One
ox fell and broke his neck. This was the last day we travelled
with them. After leaving Fort Laramie Ave had fallen in witli
the wagons of what remained of our old eompan\'. This was
all that saved us from the stampede on that day.
This event recalls the first Indians we saw. Father was
captain of the company. He ordered the wagons into two
lines, the women and children to stay in the wagons, except
those able to carry guns. I can recollect seeing mother march-
ing along carrying a rifle. All the horses and cnttle were
150 THURSTON COUNTY
driven into the enclosure made by the wagons to protect them
from stampeding. We never stopped, but marched along- in
two lines, with the wagons and the horses and cattle between
them. Father stepped out to meet the chief, who was com-
ing towards us. The Indians seemed friendly, but wanted to-
bacco. As soon as father gave one tobacco another would step
up and say "Me big Chief, too." Father gave them all that
he had in his pouch. There was a large camp of the Indians
and it appeared that this was a war party and that they had
been out to fight other Indians. They were now on their way
home.
On much of our way, wood Avas very scarce. We always
sent a party ahead of us to find wood, grass and water. We
found buffalo chips plentiful for at least a thousand miles and
often we had to use them altogether for fuel. On the Sweet-
water, in Wyoming, we caught a great many nice fish.
From Fort Hall, we travelled to Fort Bridgers, which
was about 200 miles north of Salt Lake. A man by the name
of Bridgers was located here and carried on trade with the
emigrants and with the Indians. From here we went to Sal-
mon Falls on the Snake River, and here we met a few Indians,
but they were friendly. Until we crossed the Rockies through
the Devil's Gate, we travelled up hill and up stream, but after
w^e crossed the Snake River, the waters flowed westward, and
we could almost see where the divide came.
From Salmon Falls we travelled two or three days down
the river before we crossed. We found a place where there was
an island in the river. We crossed to the island first and then
went diagonally across the rest of the river, which was about
three-fourths of a mile wide. We always took horses and rode
across the rivers we had to ford and found out exactly where
the wagons ought to go. The fords were always thoroughly
prospected before the teams were driven into the water. We
found at this crossing the deepest part was eight or ten feet
wide, and deep enough to swim the cattle, the rest of it aver-
aged about two feet deep. We blocked up the wagon beds as
high as the stanctards would allow to keep our goods dry and
hitched on ten or twelve yoke of cattle to the first wagon. The
other wagons were fastened together, one behind the other.
There w^as a chain attached to the tongue of the wagon follow-
ing and that in turn to the hind axle tree of the forward
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 151
wagon. The drivers went to the lower side of their teams to
keep the cattle braced up against the current and to keep
the direction slantingly up stream. They had to hold on to
the bows of the yokes to keep themselves braced up, too. By
the time all the teams were in the water, the lead teams were
in shallow water and we were finally safely over, without wet-
ting any of our goods.
Shortly after this our oxen began to give out. We be-
came uneasy for fear we could not travel across the mountains,
which were before us, on account of snow. To be caught on
the east side of the mountains meant almost certain death. AA^e
began to break in the cows. AVe started across the plainiv
with about twenty milk cows. B.y the time we reached Th«
Dalles, in Oregon, we had about all the cows broken in. They
were lighter on their feet and travelled much better than the
oxen. AVe didn't know at that time that we could have saved
our catties' feet by providing ourselves with shoes and nails
before leaving the States.
Three or four days before we came to Fort Boise, we were
camped on a creek and when supper was ready and each one
had set down to his place on the ground, an Indian, standing
there, knelt down at the place intended for a man named
Smith. As soon as Smith finished washing himself, he knocked
the man over with a stick and took the place himself. Sticks
which the Indians had used for digging roots or for some other
purpose, were lying around plentifully. The Indians looked
very sullen after this, and next morning one of our horses was
gone — stolen. AVe travelled on as though nothing had hap-
pended for two days and came to a place where we thought
it advisable to rest the cattle for a day, there being good grass
and water there. James Chambers, Smith and myself con-
cluded to ride back that evening to the place where we had
lost the horse, and it might be we would find an Indian camp
and do something terrible. Smith wanted to kill an Indian.
AVe rode all night and when we reached the place another
party of emigrants were camping there and we found an In-
dian there, riding on the horse which was stolen. Smith felt
all the time that his act had been the cause of our losing the
animal and he was very anxious to straighten things out by
killing an Indian. Brother James went around the camp one
way and I, another. I came upon the Indian on the horse and
152 THURSTON COUNTY
I caught the horse. Immediately Smith insisted on shooting
the Indian, but some of the campers interfered. They con-
tended that we were out of the way and that if we killed the
Indian his friends would come and take revenge on them. They
also argued that this, maybe, was not the Indian that stole
the horse and they urged us to make the women in camp feel
easy by releasing the Indian. After considering for some time
we decided to let the Indian go and give him something to re-
compense him for being nearly scared to death. He was so
badly frightened that great drops of sweat came out on his
face. The next thing to consider was what to give the Indian.
As it was coming on to the fall of the year, mother had sup-
plied us well with shii'ts. I had enough to last me two years
and I had on two at this time. They agreed that I must pull
off one of my shirts and give it to the Indian. So I did, and
all parties concerned, except myself, were well pleased, the In-
dian most of all.
From Boise w^e travelled to Grande Rounde and after we
passed the valley and came down off the Blue mountains into
the Umatilla valley we saw lots of Indians. Mary Jane, my
sister, was then a comely girl, about sixteen years of age. In-
dian chiefs offered my father fifty horses and a hundred blan-
kets for her. They didn't care whether the girl was willing
or not. They wanted a white "klootchman." This was their
custom, to pay for their ''klootchman." ]\Iary Jane was
frightened and she never showed herself when the Indians
were around.
"When we were wnthin a few days' journey of The Dalles,
and after we had crossed the Des Chutes River, two horses
were stolen from us. "We went back from Fifteen IMile Creek
to a village near by and called on the Chief. He said he would
have the Indians bring in the horses. We waited about his tent,
keeping guard, until an Indian came in with the horses. They
claimed that the horses had been stolen by some bad Indians
and that a good Indian brought them back and that he ought
to have pay for it. We had become accustomed to paying, so
we were prepared to give a shirt. This satisfied them.
Our trip had not been a pleasure trip, for from the time
we left St. Joe each one of us had to stand guard about once
a week and from the time we left Fort Boise each one had to
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 153.
stand guard half the night every other night and after hav-
ing- had measles, this was no fun.
On October 15 we arrived at The Dalles. On account of
the lateness of the season, we selected a place for winter quar-
ters. This was on a creek about two miles from the Methodist
Jlission.
Here in November, we built huts for the family and large
corrals of logs in which to keep the horses for their safety at
night. We watched them during the day. Our cattle were at
large. We looked after them to prevent their straying too far.
We drove them together several times each day. Several par-
ties left their stock in our care during the winter.
As soon as the family was in its winter quarters, father
and I w^ent doAvn the Columbia River and up the Willamette
River for a winter's supply of flour. This was about the 20th
of November. At Oregon City we bought a skiff and about
1.000 pounds of flour. A young man by the name of Scrog-
gins and myself, started out to take the flour to the family.
Father stayed down the Willamette in Tulatin plains ail
winter, looking for a place in which to locate. When we
reached The DaUes, James and his wife left their stock with
us. their oxen had given out, and went on and father remained
with James and his wife until Spring.
Scroggins and I started with plenty of provisions for our
trip, which we calculated would be about seven days. On ac-
count of stormy weather, we were seventeen days. Below Cape
Horn on the Columbia River, we had to lay by in one place
for two days. Cape Horn is a rocky spur of the Cascade range,
two or three hundred feet high and almost perpendicular.
This was the hardest seventeen days' work I ever did. It
stormed almost all the time. We had the flour in sacks of 100
pounds each and we loaded and unloaded these sacks some-
times as high as eight or ten times a day. The w'ind would stop
blowing for a time and by the time we got loaded and ready to
start it would begin again and we would be obliged to unload,
the river was so rough we did not dare to risk becoming
swamped with our heavy load. The wind blew either up stream
or down stream. The family needed the flour badly, and we
were anxious to get to them with it. Some days we would not
go over a mile after working hard all day and then the wind
would apparently abate, when we could not avail ourselves of
154 THURSTON COUNTY
the calm. Our supply of provisions were soon about all used
up except the flour. Flour and water, without even salt, was
not very good to keep up our spirits, as well as strength. We
mixed the flour and water together in the top of a sack and
made the dough into long strings, which we wrapped about a
stick. We set the stick by the fire and baked the dough, which
tasted pretty good after a hard day's work. We varied this
with noodle soup made of water and flour. We were three days
making the five miles of rapids and seven miles of portage. The
last day on the rapids our boat took a sheer and the one on
shore had to pull so hard against the current that the boat filled
with water. In the face of this calamity I thought the family
would starve. I was twenty years of age but in my anxiety,
I cried. This was the first, last and only time I cried while
crossing the plains.
We finally got the boat to a safe place and baled it out.
We Avere sure the flour was ruined. We took the sacks out
and let the water drain off, reloaded and proceeded on our
journey.
That night we built a fire and dried the sacks and found
that the flour was not much hurt. We were lucky to find two
M^hite men and three Indians to help us carry our boat over
the portage. Four days of travel up the river brought us to
our winter home. We found all well and anxious for our
return.
As I have said, father remained down the Willamette the
winter of 1845, with Brother James and wife, looking for a
place, and the middle of January, 1846, he and James came
back to The Dalles to help build a boat to move us. There
were plenty of boats then on the Willamette for emigrants
who wanted to pass on down to the valley, but a very short
time after we arrived at The Dalles they had all been taken
off for the winter.
James was a boat builder. We selected a place close to
the river to build our boat, where there was good timber. We
chose two large trees for the purpose of making gunwales, the
trees beilig about three feet in diameter. Then we picked out
smaller trees for making the plank. We hewed out the timber
the proper length and squared it. This we lined on both sides
the thickness we wanted to make our planks. We chose a
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 155
place on a side hill to make a saw pit. It was so arranged
that one man could stand underneath the log and one man on
top of it. Then the squared logs were put in place and we
ripped out enough plank for a bottom and a false bottom and
for the sides of the boat. We used the old whip saw which is
now on exhibition in the Oregon Historical rooms at Portland.
This old whip saw told its own story, when in 1894, a gen-
tleman asked it to tell of its adventures :
''I started for Puget Sound from Missouri in 1845 and.
after passing through the trials and incidents of an overland
journey of six months, reached The Dalles Oregon, where,
with the assistance of four men, I sawed timber enough to con-
struct a boat 16 feet long and fifty feet wide. On February
1, 1846, the boat was loaded with myself among the passengers
and we moved down the Columbia to the Cascades. At the
Cascades I took passage in a wagon around a five mile port-
aQre. Our boat was the first boat ever sent over the Cascade
Falls. The craft was secured and proceeded to the mouth of
Sandy River. From that point my travels varied, sometimes
by land and sometimes by water, up one stream and down
another. Finally, in the Spring of 1848, I reached Puget
Sound, after a tedious journey behind an ox team. In the
three years of my travels my master always found me of ser-
vice. But during forty-seven years, after 1 reached what was
to be my home, I remained undisturbed and unthought of in
my master's tool house on Chambers Prairie. On April 26,
1894, the flames destroyed my home and I was ruined and de-
faced almost beyond recognition."
We had no nails and the boat was put together entirely
with wooden pins. It resembled a scow of today. Its capacity
was large enough to carry fifteen head of cattle at a time in
crossing a river and to store all of our wagons when they were
taken apart, and all of our plunder that we had brought with
us across the plains, as well as those members of the family
who were not on shore driving the cattle.
When we got the boat ready and launched we loaded
our effects, wagons and plunder and all the ox yokes and
proceeded on down the Columbia River. When we collected
the stock to make the start our cattle were in good condition.
The snow rarely stayed on the ground on the southern slopes
of the hills and the cattle had opportunity to do well. But
156 THURSTON COUNTY
not so with the horses. The Indians had managed to steal
most of them during foggy weather when it was pretty hard
work to guide them. We did not have more than three out
of a lot of horses whose manes and tails had not been cut
off. The mutilated animals looked horrible to us. There
was always some "good Indian" to help me hunt the stolen
horses. It appeared the Indians did not want the horses except
to have a big ride on them and get their manes and tails.
They made ropes out of the hair.
Our boat had long oars and when we started two mer
attended to these. Brother James usually steered the boat
and Father and David were ashore most of the time. We let
the boat run with the current as great a distance each day
as we could drive the cattle. Then we tied up and resumed
our course next morning. We travelled on the north side
down the river bottom until we came to Shell Rock, a place
where the hills came right up to the river's edge. We could
not drive over this rock, neither could we swim our cattle
around it. Consequently we were obliged to ferry all our
effects, and the cattle, to the north side, and travelled down
that side until we came to the Cascade Falls. At this point
we unloaded our wagons, put them together and loaded our
plunder into them, hitched on the teams and started out to
make our way to the lower end of the Falls.
Everything had been removed from the boat and the sides
boarded up. Brother James and two men who were willing
to take the risk, went aboard. James acted as captain and
the other men stood at the oars. We had several small boats
so we took her out in the river and gave her a start, heading
her straight for the falls. She went over, shipping only a
nominal number of gallons of water. It was in February that
we made this run with the first flat bottomed boat ever to
pass over these five miles of rocks and rapids.
Having gotten safely over they returned, after tying up.
to help us with the teams and stock. We had to blaze a trail
to go through and prospect a road. We were obliged to go
back about a mile from the river and pass through an Indian
graveyard. In this graveyard the dead were all buried in
houses, and we had to drive carefully between them. It was
an ancient burying place, for the houses were all decaying.
I think it could not have been used for many, many years.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 157
After travelling about six miles we came again to the river
just below the lower falls. We re-loaded the boat and pro-
ceeded as before. The drivers took the cattle along by the
river until we reached Cape Horn. Here we were obliged
again to leave the river and travel out into the country and
around this high promontory. AVe had to drive very slowly
and it was hard work. On this trip we took a little flor.r.
salt and enough bread to do us the first day out. After
that we tied up the calves so that we could get milk enough
to make noodle soup with milk, flour and salt. It was nearly
three days before w^e reached the river again. At the mouth
of Sandy River we found the scow and the folks waiting for
us. Here we unloaded again and ferried our stock across
to the southern side of the Columbia, at the mouth of the
Sandy. From this point we drove the cattle across the country
by Oregon City to Milk Creek, near Molalla, where father
had .selected a place for us.
After ferrying the stock across at the mouth of the Sandy,
we re-loaded the boat Avith our effects and ran down the
Columbia to the Willamette and up the latter river to Oregon
City. Here we sold the boat for $50. We put our plunder in
the wagons and moved out to the place selected for our future
homes, and set to work to build houses in which to live.
The citizens of Oregon were of the opinion that Uncle
Sam was slow in extending protection to his people on the
Pacific Slope, and they formed a provisional government and
elected Abernathy governor. The representatives passed laAvs
saying that a married man and his wife could take up 640
acres — a mile square — of land ; a young or single man, half
that amount, and that this could be selected any place, so
that it did not interfere with other claims. Wheat was made
legal tender for small debts at one dollar a bushel.
Oregon City, being located at the Falls on the Willamette
River, the Hudson Hay Company had a flour mill and a store
there. Up the Willamette, the old servants of the company
had settled, and taken up a great many of the choice parts
for fifty or sixty miles. One prairie, called "French Prairie,"
was settled by Canadian French, and most of the settlers had
native wives.
The first settlers here cut hazel brush and made withes
158 THURSTON COUNTY
v.-ith which to bind their wheat. At this time the sickle and
the reap hook were used. Then the cradle came into use and
they learned to make bands of the wheat, oats, or other grain
that was out.
After putting in one Spring crop and garden in the
IMolalla. Ave built a barn. I then went to Tualatin Plains, west
of Oregon City, and stopped with Brother James and family.
He had married a Mrs. Seoggins, w^ho had a family of five
children, three sons and two daughters. I, together with these
children, went to school for one term. The oldest son was
one of my best friends, and it was he who helped me to take
the flour up the Columbia to mj' folks. Tualatin Plains,
twenty miles from Oregon City, was settled principally by
Hudson Bay men, English and Scotch. This was a fine section
of the country. Plenty of wheat w^as grown here, and new-
comers could get plenty of work by taking pay in wheat, at
one dollar a tush el. The wheat could be taken to Oregon
City and sold to the company, and taken out in trade at the
store, and a receipt would be given for the remainder. This
receipt could be used in trading with other parties for any-
thing wanted, and they, in turn, could go to the store and
get goods and groceries with it. There was very little money
in the country, so people were obliged to use wheat and these
receipts as a means of conducting business transactions. The
emigrants to this country had spent mostly all their money
for outfits and a great many, even then, were very poorly
provided for provisions for the trip.
After school closed I stayed with my brother. James, and
helped in the harvest. The barns were built of logs, two houses
and a space of thirty feet between them, the roof including
the three. The center was used for a threshing floor, and
ten or twelve horses were used to tramp out the wheat. The
farmers would furnish us horses and board and give us one
bushel in ten to thresh out and fan the wheat, and. sometimes,
they allowed us a team to take the wheat to market. While
I was helping my brother that harvest, I did the threshing
and my brother and Young Seoggins hauled in the sheaves.
We threshed eighty or ninety bushels a day.
One of the oldest settlers came to my brother and wanted
help. James told him I could go and wanted to know how
much he would pay me per day. The old settler said he would
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 159
give me three pecks of wheat a day. James told him I might
remain at home and play, before I should work at that price.
1 told my brother to make a contract with him to cut and
shock his wheat, and Scoggins and I would do the work as
soon as we finished James' crop. He made the contract at
three bushels an acre and board.
We went, and put in thirty acres for him. We put up three
acres a day, and the old gentleman was highly pleased with
our work. His wheat was getting very ripe and shattering
out so that he proposed for us to cut and bind in the fore-
noon and haul in the afternoon, and he would pay just the
same per day for the hauling. That was nine bushels a da3^
It was hard for him to keep help. One harvest was all
that help would stay with him. Some of his help told that he
recommended to them to eat the peelings off of baked potatoes.
He said it was healthy and helped to fill up. I think he was
correct about its being good for the health, if he followed his
own advise, for he lived to be 104 years old.
The Winter of 1846 we spent in looking for a ncAv location,
thinking to better ourselves. We went to the mouth of the
Columbia River and looked over Clatsop Plains, then south
to the Umpqua country, but Ave did not find anything to
suit us.
Father said he had started for salt water, and so in the
Spring of 1847, after w^e had put in the crops, we came ovei
to Puget Sound to look at that portion of the country. We
spent two months looking around. At Newmarket, the present
site of Tumwater. at the falls of the Des Chutes River, we
found INI. T. Simmons and family, and five or six other families
and nine or ten young men. They had settled here in June,
1845. They were putting up a sawmill. They already had a
fh)ur mill, a very small concern. The burrs were only eighteen
inches in diameter and no bolting cloth was in use. Some of
the families had sieves that were used to take out the coarse
bran.
At the present site of Olympia there was was oidy one
man, by the name of Smith. His log cabin stood on the ground
where the Huggins hotel is noAV. We finally staked out
claims on what is now known as "Chambers Prairie." Tlu'U
Ave returned to our homes in Oregon to make preparations to
move to the Puget Sound region in the Fall.
160 THURSTON COUNTY
Early in the Fall of 1847, we hired two boats of Dr.
MeLoiighlin, and four Kanaka boat men. We loaded our
effects, wagons, ox yokes and bedding, on the boats at Oregon
City. We went down the Willamette to the Columbia River,
down the Columbia to the mouth of the Cowlitz and up the
Cowlitz to Cowlitz Landing — thirty miles.
It was fine boating until we came to the rapids on the
Cowlitz Eiver. That was hard work and slow travelling. We
had to use the tow line a great deal and go from one side of
the river to the other to take advantage of the eddies and
shallow waters, so that we could use the long poles and push
the boats up the stream. Our boats were heavily laden and
for about fifteen miles we used the poles and tow line, the
water being too swift to use the oars.
There w^as a great quantity of salmon in the river. We
had all we wanted, and cooked it Indian fashion. This was to
dress the fish, run a stick through it and place the stick in the
ground close to the fire, and as the fish cooked, turn it so
that it would bake evenly. We always left the scales on till it
M^as cooked. After working hard all day, it was fine — we
thought, delicious.
We arrived at Cowlitz Landing after twenty days of
travel, the only accident on the trip being the loss of a rifle,
a considerable loss in those daj^s, too. In making the trip to
Cowlitz Landing, we started the hands with the stock, horses
and cattle, to cross the Columbia. All were ferried over at
Fort Vancouver; then they were driven down the river to
Lewis River, where they were ferried over this stream, follow-
ing down the Columbia to the mouth of the CoMditz. They
were then driven up the Cowlitz and swam across the south
fork. When they reached the Cowlitz Landing, they swam
the stock to the north side of the river and waited for the
boats. This landing is at the lower end of Cowlitz Prairie,
which prairie was settled by the Canadian French and is a
fine farming country. The Hudson Bay Company and the
Catholic Mission each had fine farms there. We rented twenty
acres of land from the Catholic Mission and a like number
of acres from John R. Jackson, and put in a crop of winter
wheat.
When the crop was in, we left the stock needed to haul
our wagons to the prairie (Chambers), which we had selected
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 161
for our future home, and started to drive the remainder of
the stock through. We drove them over Mud Mountain, or
]\Iud Hill — all the first settlers travelled this way, and we
crossed the Des Chutes about two miles above Tumwater.
There was an Indian trail from Bush Prairie to Chambers
Prairie.
Then we went back to Saunder's Bottom and com-
pleted the wagon road around Mud Hill. This hill is east of
Chehalis. There was one family living there at that time. We
prospected and blazed out a road. We found trees' on the banks
of a creek that suited us for making a bridge. We built the
bridge and cut out the wagon road through Saunder's Bottom —
a distance of three miles. The creek's source was from ilud
Mountain and the banks were steep and muddy and could not
be crossed without a bridge. We then came to New JMarket,
one of the first settlements at Tumwater. The men of this
settlement turned out and all helped to cut a wagon road to
Chambers' Prairie, a distance of three and a half miles. The
old settlers here were glad to see new comers and they were
ready and willing to help us. What they had they were will-
ing to share with us. They were much pleased when they
learned that we had sieve wire, for they had no bolting cloth
for their small grist mill. They thought it a fine thing to have
sieve wire so they could take the bran out of their flour. On
the prairie we built a log house of two rooms, the smaller
we used for a kitchen and the larger was curtained off into
bed rooms. We then went for the family and brought them
over. We stayed a few days, visiting Mr. Simmons' family.
We crossed our wagons on boats, when the tide was in,
below the lower falls of the Des Chutes. When the tide was
out we drove our work cattle across Budd's Inlet and then
drove out five miles to our future home. The fifteenth of De-
cember, 1847, we took our first dinner at our home on Cham-
bers' Prairie.
Here our stock had plenty of grass and wintered well,
so they were fat in February. We butchered a fine beef and
had plent}^ of tallow to make candles. Mother had brought
enough candle wicking to do several years. The candles were
a great improvement on the old iron lamp in which Ave had
to burn hog's lard. This lamj) was made with a short spout for
162 THURSTON COUNTY
the wick to lie iu and one end of the wick came out of this
spout to burn. The handle at the other end of the lamp was
so arranged that it came up over the center of the lamp, so
as to hold the lamp level. A cotton cloth, twisted, served as a
wick. Father put up a milk house, and, in March, commenced
to make butter, and in April, to make cheese.
Brother Thomas and I took up claims adjoining, and we
milked the cows, morning and evening, for our board. We
built a log house of one room on our claim. We made it a
five-cornered house, the fifth corner being for the fireplace. In
]\Iay we dug two troughs and started a tan yard, on a small
scale. We used the troughs for vats, and alder and hemlock
bark, for tanning purposes. We dried the bark and pounded
it fine. We burned oyster and clam shell and used the lime
to take the hair off the skins. We made sole leather out of
beef hides, and for the upper leather we used deer and cougar
hides. By the first of November \xe had our leather ready to
make shoes. We brought a kit of shoemakers' tools with us
and father and I made the shoes. We brought with us a num-
ber of lasts of different sizes. For sewing we put a number of
strands of shoe thread together — the length we wanted — and
we twisted and waxed this string, tapered the ends and put
a hog bristle on each end for needles. It was a nice piece of
work to put the bristles on so they would stay. This we could
do to perfection. If they came off they could not be put on
again.
We made our shoe pegs of maple and dog Avood, well
seasoned, sawed the length and size we wanted the pegs to
be. We split off' slabs the thickness to make square pegs, and
shaved the slabs to make the pegs sharp at one end. We used
a stick with a notch against which we held the slabs and
sharpened first one side and then the other. A strip of leather
with a slit in it was fastened to the shoe board. We took two
or three of the sharpened slabs and held them with the left
hand against the leather which served as a lever for the knife,
and, with the point of the knife, held to place by running it in
the slit in the leather, we split off the pegs.
The crop we put in on Cowlitz Prairie turned out Avell, and
we hauled it over early in the Fall, or enough of it to plant and
to keep us until we grew our first crop on Chambers' Prairie.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 163
The Aviuters of 18-15-6 and 1846-7 Avere very mild and pleasant.
We made rails to fence in land to protect our crops. We
raised plenty of wheat, potatoes, peas and other vegetables.
We had wheat coffee, and pea coffee, and we could always
change from one to the other. Boiled wheat and milk made an
extra dish for supper.
Father and mother were highly pleased with this country
and they thought there was no place like it ; fat beef off the
range in February, and plenty of oysters and clams for the
digging. One beef would give us sixty pounds of tallow, and
in those days tallow was an important item.
That same spring of 1848, we built the log barn which
stood over half a century and finally had to be burned on ac-
count of its being unsafe for the stock. It was built similar
to those already described, except that this barn had five
apartments, two for hay and grain, one for stalls, one for
wagons, and one for threshing. It was a long, narrow barn,
and all under one roof. The clapboards were put on with
Avrought nails from England, the sheeting was of logs, put on
the right distance apart to use four-foot boards.
Thomas and I had been looking forward and calculating
to return to Missouri in two years to see our girls that we had
left behind us. In 1848 mother received a letter from our old
home, telling about what had taken place since we left and
among the news was the marriage of a certain young lady,
and this had the effect of making me contented to remain on
Puget Sound.
This was a sensible decision, for, during the winter of
1847, Indians broke out and massacred Dr. and ]Mrs. Whitman
and many others at the Mission, near Walla Walla. The people
of Oregon raised a company of Volunteers to subdue the Cayuse
tribe, the only hostiles. They succeeded in bringing the leaders
to justice. We, on Puget Sound, did not know about the
trouble until it was all settled. The Indians here were friendly
and they were glad to have the Boston.s — as they called the
Americans — come. About this time gold was discovered in
California, and Thomas and I got the fever to go, as Brother
James was there.
164 THURSTON COUNTY
Mrs. Chambers' Story As Told By Her
Daughter Nora
I left my childhood home in company with my three
brothers, my sister-in-law, two nephews, and a niece, on April
1st, 1851, to cross the continent with ox teams.
]\Iy only sister took the road leading to Louisville the
same morning, having been married to Presly I\I. Hoskins one
week before. I can see the wagon yet that carried her goods,
as it slowly turned down a hill that we used to travel so much
to school and church together. Oh, how sorrowful a daj^ that
was ! We crossed the Wabash Kiver at Terre Haute, about
25 miles from our home in Sullivan County, Indiana, travelling
across Illinois to Missouri, landing at St. Joe on the JMissouri
River on the 9th day of ]May. Here we stayed a few days to
rest our jaded teams. The roads were frightful, the poor oxen
would almost mire down in many j)laces.
When w^e crossed the river into the Indian Territory, I
felt as if we had left all civilization behind us. IMy sister-
in-law was sick, my niece much younger than I, consequently
all the cooking and planning fell on my shoulders. None but
those who have cooked for a family of eight, crossing the plains,
can have any idea of the amount of food consumed.
There isn't much fun cooking with sage brush almost as
dry as straw. Sometimes the cakes — flapjacks — were black
with the ashes blown over them. To throw them away and
bake others was out of the question, for the next lot would
have been the same, besides we had to be very saving of pro-
visions. When we were all well we had jolly times, but my
sister-in-law was sick almost all the time, which was a great
source of anxiety to us. At times we almost despaired of her
life.
I used to think, when travelling over those rocky roads,
often seeing the skulls and bones of fellowmen bleaching in
the hot sun, so far from home and loved ones, that if we were
spared to reach a land of civilization, I could see my dearest
loved ones laid away with a tear. Oh. the thought of leaving
a loved one so far away was perfectly agonizing.
Often we would see parts of quilts that had been wrapped
around the form of some dear one laid away, but both body and
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 165
quilts had been dug out by the wild animals and the bones
laid bare before the gaze of the pitiless sun. We saw some
graves that had been made secure by heavy stones that had
been placed upon them so that the wild beasts could not roll
them off. We had one funeral in our train, a little boy. and
how sad it was to drive aAvay and leave the new-made grave !
One of our sorrows was the loss of our faithful dog. which
had accompanied us from home. The poor beast perished when
we were crossing the desert. My sister-in-law Avas very ill —
we did not know that she would live through the day. We had
hauled water enough to last for two days, but had to use it
very sparingly. I remembered, after we missed the dog, of
seeing him coming along behind the wagon with his tongue
hanging out of his mouth. Poor fellow, if he had been taken
in and given a little water he would have been saved. Except
for the sickness in our family, we had an excellent trip, com-
pared with some. We had no troul)le with Indians — only some
scares. One night the guards came in and reported the Indians
had frightened all the stock and they had run off. Of course,
Ave prepared to defend ourselves as best we could. The wagons
were put around to form a circle, the tongue of one wagon
resting on the back of another. Then the women and children
were put into as fcAV wagons as possible and one man sat in
front of each wagon with his gun ready to shoot if an Indian
put in an appearance. We were greatly rejoiced when morn-
ing came and no sight of an Indian anywhere.
Sometimes we would lay by all day to give the oxen a little
rest when the weather was so warm. Then we would start out
just at night-fall and travel all night. In this way I missed
tlie sight of Court House Rock, although we had seen it in the
distance for several days, rearing up like an immense old
building. Chimney Rock, too, was quite a curiosity. We
could see it for days and it looked so close at hand that three
or four days before Ave reached it some of the company started
to go to it but came into camp in the evening, tired out Avith
Avallving a Avhole afternoon carrying their guns. The shape of
the rock was very much like a chimney standing alone, AA-ay
out on the plains with no other rock near it.
We passed some very beautiful rocks A'ery mucli like the
ones in YelloAvstone Park. On some of the smooth ones there
166 THURSTON COUNTY
were hundreds of names, each one higher than the last, the
writers having climbed np to see who could write their name
the highest.
The Devil's Gate is a Cjueer freak of nature and quite a
curiosity. There is just room for a wagon road between the
high rocks on either side.
We passed what was then called Steamboat Springs. The
water was thrown up into the air several feet high. Then
there were the hot springs, some beautiful waterfalls and
many, many other strange and beautiful things that I do not
recall at this late day.
The most unpleasant part of the journey was through the
alkali district. It was white as far as you could see. In some
places a thick crust or scum was on the top of the earth. Our
hands and lips were sore from the alkali in the air. We would
be so covered with dust as we travelled along that at night-fall
we could not tell our nearest neighbor, as all looked alike.
Cows, as a general rule, stood the trip much better than
oxen. We brought one yoke of young cow^s that we milked at
the home place, and more faithful creatures I never saw. They
worked every day until August. Coming through the Blue
Mountains, one of the poor creatures gave out, laid down and
refused to get up, so we had to leave her and travel on. Our
hearts were sad when we took a last look at one so faithful.
We learned afterwards that a party coming along after us
found her quite refreshened after her rest and brought her
on through with them, which we were very glad to know.
These two cows gave us plenty of milk until we reached the
alkali country, when the feed was so poor that they had no
milk for us.
Besides losing our cow in the Blue JNIountains, we had
another remarkable event — the birth of a son to Mr. and Mrs.
Ross. (They and their son now reside in the Puyallup valley.)
We laid by for half a day and then travelled on as if nothing
had happened. Mrs. Ross and the child got along nicely.
The next event of importance was the crossing of the
Rock}' Mountains. It was a tiresome, tedious journey, and our
cattle, after travelling so far, were very much fatigued. For
days it was up, up all the time and the road was often very
winding. The five girls that were in our train would some-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 167
times take what we called a "cutoff" and come out on the road
a long distance ahead of the wagon. These five girls were
Elizabeth White, now Mrs. D. R. Bigelow of Olympia; Jerusha
White, now Mrs. A. W. Stewart of Puyallnp ; Millie Stewart,
now ]\Irs. Dr. Spinning of Piiyalhip ; Margaret White, now ^Irs.
Andrew Chambers of Olympia. and INIrs. Durgan of Olympia,
whose maiden name I have forgotten.
One day, as we could see the road quite a distance off,
we set out on one of our trips, which proved to be much longer
than we had any idea of. We were climbing hills, tramping
over rocks, through deep ravines and scattering timber, all the
nflernoon.
About as blue a time as we had was when our cattle were
poisoned — every one lying down and groaning like sick people.
Luckily for us, my brother had taken along a much greater
amount of bacon than was needed, so Ave had enough fat meat
to let the entire company have some. The men sat up all night
and cut the meat into such sized pieces as they could put down
the throats of the animals. Consequently, our teams were saved
and we were able to resume our journey the next afternoon.
The trials and troubles of such a journey can never be
realized. I think if the people had realized the dangers and
I)rivations attendant upon such a trip they would never have
undertaken it.
I shall never forget the first herd of buffalo I saw. Such
a number of them — perhaps a hundred. We often saw smaller
herds travelling towards water. The first meat was a great
treat, we had been so many months without fresh meat. The
boys in our company killed three in one daj^ and we laid by a
day and a half and dried some. We made a scaffold of sticks
and hung the strips of meat on the sticks, then built a fire
under the meat.
After this, when we wished to have a change from the
dried meat, we would put grease in the pan and fry the meat
slightly. I can tell you it tasted good after having lived for
months on salted meat.
I shall never forget how good the first new potatoes tasted.
AYe got them in Powder River Valley.
One sees the most beautiful Avild flowers in crossing the
plains — flowers of every hue and shade and acres of them.
168 THURSTON COUNTY
How I regret not having pressed and keeping some of the
beauties, bnt that is a little thing to regret doing, compared
with the many things we look back and see as we journey on
through life. So much occurs to us that we wish we had
done.
Glad, indeed, was I when we reached The Dalles, on the
Columbia River, for I knew we were nearing our journey's
end and nearing civilization once more, where we could have
the privilege of church and schools.
While getting supper that night I suffered a burn, the
scars of which I will carry to my grave. As it was very sandy
here, and high winds prevailing, we dug a trench to build our
fire in. As I was putting something over the fire to cook, the
sand gave way under my foot and I came down with my hand
in the hot sand and ashes, burning it to a crisp. I could act
the lady for several weeks after that.
On the morning of September 16, we took passage on a
little steamer that plied between The Dalles and the Cascades.
It had just been built and this was its first trip.
We remained over night at the Cascades, and there my
brother purchased a flat boat and we loaded into it and started
for the mouth of Sandy River, quite a distance from the Cas-
cades. My two brothers, with two nephews and the rest of the
men, drove the cattle down the trail along the Columbia, and a
hard old time they had of it, too.
AVhen we reached Sandy we found quite a nice farm house
and a good garden of vegetables, which looked inviting after
our six months' diet of dried beans, rice, bacon, dried apples
and peaches. Although we had so much to be thankful for,
as we had an ample supply, and some to spare, which was more
than some could say. Some were very scarce of provisions, but
none were in want in our train.
Here (at Sandy) we camped on the banks of the Columbia,
while my brothers took a contract for building a ferry boat for
the man who lived there — a man named Parker.
It w^as perhaps two weeks before our men wnth the cattle
arrived, and we were very glad to see them once more.
The boat being finished, we ferried across the Columbia
and found a very nice settlement on the river bottom after
crossing over. My brother and his wife stopped here to take
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 169
care of the stock, as there was an abundance of good pasturage
to be had very reasonably. My other brothers and two nephews,
my niece and myself went to a little town between Portland and
Oregon City — Milwaukee. There we rented a house and went
to school for the winter.
We soon made some pleasant acquaintances, as all were
2iewcomers and it was a small town. We attended singing
school and some few dancing parties, only to look on. I had
never seen nor heard a violin before, nor seen any dancing.
]\Iy people were all verj^ strict Presbyterians and we were never
allowed to indulge in such amusements.
In September of the same year my brothers decided to
come to Puget Sound to see if they liked the country better,
as we were not favorably impressed with Oregon. As they
were pleased, they returned for us and we all came to this
part of the country — Chambers' Prairie, Thurston County, in
October, 1852.
We spent the winter at the eastern extremity of the
prairie, on the place where the Avidow Collins now lives, but
which was owned by ]\Ir. Nathan Eaton at that time. ]\Iy
brothers did the first fencing he had done on the prairie.
Tliey put in grain on shares and looked around for
claims. My two brothers and a nephew took donation claims
adjoining each other.
The latter part of the winter of 1853 my brothers split
and sawed all the lumber for their houses, as saw mills were
unknown in this section in those days. We had puncheon
floors. For fear you will not know what that is. I will tell
you. It is a floor laid with split logs, the flat side being
uppermost. The logs were of cedar and the floor was nice
and white when scrubbed with sand and cold water. We girls
used to be very proud of our white floors. I think it was in
April, 1853, that we moved into our new home. We girls
were the housekeepers for my brothers and nephews. ]\Iy
married brother lived a mile from us, on the place where ]\Ir.
Stralehm now lives.
That summer was a very dreary one for us, as we had
never been where there were forest fires before. We feared
that the fire might come on us at any time as the grass on the
prairie was very thick and dry. For days the sun hung like a
170 THURSTON COUNTY
ball of fire in the heavens. When the rain eanie and cleared
the smoke away all was again pleasant and we soon forgot
our disagreeable times.
Our housekeeping for my brothers was of short duration,
as my neiee decided to become somebody's else housekeeper.
On the morning of September 22, 1853, she was married to A.
W. Stewart, a young man who had crossed the plains with us.
After her departure I made my home with my brother and
his wife until January, 1854.
On the 18th of that month I was married to Andrew
J. Chambers, and came to reside in this house. We have
spent our lives here since then, and, by the laws of Nature,
we haven't many more years to live, but hope we shall live
them here, where we have seen our greatest joys and sor-
rows. I must say that I had never known what true happiness
was until I was married, as I had never known the love of
father or mother. I found great happiness in a loving, affec-
tionate husband. I only hope that all my daughters may be
as happy in marriage as their mother. We have raised . a
large family of girls (that we are more than proud of) ten in
number, seven of whom are still living to cheer our declin-
ing days.
The Indian war of 1855-56 was a trying time for the new
settlers. About this time I had a bad scare. Although the
Indians east of the mountains were on the war path and we
heard all kinds of rumors of their intention to take our
section of the country, the Sound Indians were apparently
friendly. An Indian lad w^ho had worked for us told us we
were in danger, but we paid little attention to him, although
I was frightened and uneasy.
A brother of my husband's lived a mile from us, on the
place his father had settled in 1848. This brother and a young
man who lived with him were sitting out in front of their
cabin, in the twilight, one evening within hearing of the
Indian camp. As thej^ understood the Indian language and
heard their names mentioned, they listened and heard an
old Indian say. as he passed his finger over the sharp edge of
a knife he had bought from John Chambers: "Little did
John think he was selling me the knife to kill him with."
Then they talked and planned how they could execute their
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 171
bloody work, aud about this time the boys made tracks for
our house, so seared that they even left their guns. How well
I remember that night! WLen we heard the gate open and
shut, Mr. Chambers sprang out of bed and grasped his gun.
I tell you, those boys made tracks when they heard him, for
they knew he had his revolvers and gun ready. As soon as
they could speak they called to him, and I can tell you we
Vvere relieved when we heard who it .was. Oh, how I shook!
Just like one vrith the ague.
Then the men sat up on guard and run bullets all night,
as that was the only kind of ammunition we had in
those days.
Early the next morning the boys returned to their home
to see how things looked. The old Indian was as fine as he
could be, and wanted to be very gracious. He had told John
Chambers some time before that he had come to camp by him
and was going to live and die by him. The old hypocrite !
When he saw the boys he asked them where they slept. They
replied: "In bed." "Not here," he said. Then they asked
him how he knew. He said they were in the house for some
medicine for a sick child, which was another story.
Very soon we heard of men being waylaid and shot, and
the country was all excitement. Shortly the people began to
gather into forts to protect themselves. The fort for this
part of the country was on our place and is still in use as a
barn. There were block houses on each corner. At one time
there were thirty-two families in this fort. There were any
number of children and dogs, and, consequently, any amount of
music, especially of evenings. "We had many startling events,
of which I well remember one. My husband was lieutenant
of the company of volunteers within the fort, so he was ordered
by the captain of the company to take a number of men and
make a scout through the neighborhood and see if there were
any Indians prowling around. They mounted their horses
about five o'clock one afternoon and rode away toward Yelm
Prairie. Shortly afterwards the command was given for every
man to get his gun and stand in readiness, as.thelndiflns might
attack the fort at any moment, as they had undoubtedly
attacked the men who had gone on- the scouting expedition, for
172
THURSTON COUNTY
they had heard the report of several gnns in the direction they
had gone.
Such a commotion ! My feelings can better be imagined and
described, but time told us our fears were groundless.
That was a long night. Not a wink of sleep for me.
Morning came, but no signs of Indians. The men were out
two days and never saw nor heard an Indian. How rejoiced
I was when I saw my good husband again !
There was one man in the company who used to give us
a scare by firing his gun while on guard. The orders were
not a gun was to be shot unless at an Indian. Knowing this,
imagine yourself, sitting by the fire, with everything quiet,
and then hear one shot after another! The old man always
said he saw Indians.
The war broke out in October, 1855, and ended in June.
3856. The last battle was fought east of the mountains.
There is a great deal more that I could write, but time
will not permit me.
JACOB OTT AND WIFE
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 173
MRS. JACOB OTT
"I wish ]Mr. Ott were here to tell yon about the exciting
experiences he went through in early days," said Mrs. Jacob
Ott, when interviewed and asked to tell the story of her life
in Olympia. "I never knew any hardships, and, although the
life in America was new and strange to me, upon my arrival
from my girlhood home in Switzerland, I was always com-
fortable. All dangers from Indian outrages was over and
civilization was quite well advanced.
"But when Mr. Ott came to America in 1850, he found the
country- ver^y different from what he had been accustomed to.
He was also born in Switzerland and it was there that he
learned his trade of carpenter. When quite a young man he
came to this country, stopping first in St. Louis. Later he
joined a train of emigrants bound for the Golden West. All
places were alike to the young man, adventure, and perhaps
a chance to gather some of the gold he heard so much about,
was what he was looking for. The trip was made in the
regulation way — ox teams — to Portland. Oregon. After six
months in that settlement, Mr. Ott heard so much talk of the
opportunities to be found on Puget Sound, that he determined
to try his luck there. Tumwater was the only place of any
importance then, so he came, arriving here in 1852. From
Monticello Landing, Mr. Ott made the trip to Tumwater on
horseback. The prospects of this section of the Northwest
looked good to him, so he decided to stay here.
"Among the first things Mr. Ott did was to ])uy a num-
ber of lots of timber land in the town and begin clearing them
oft'. The lots were very heavily Avooded, and almost the first
thing that happened to the young man was an incident that
at the time frightened him into a cold perspiration. One morn-
ing he had laid his ax at the root of a tall fir and had it
chopped part way through, so the miglity trunk began to bend
towards the ground, when there dropped at the feet of the
174 THURSTON COUNTY
yjiing woodsman a small Indian bahy, which had apparently
only been dead a short time. Mr. Ott was simply paralyzed
with fear and for a while thought the child must have been
thrown at him by some unseen Indians as a menace of some
sort. But after a while it occurred to him to examine the
top branches of the tree, and there he discovered the rude
cradle in which the papoose had been put to sleep his last
sleep. A further search disclosed three other Indians repos-
ing in the tree tops and then it dawuaed on him that he had
intruded on an Indian 'burying' ground, if I may call it that.
The experience was an unusual one to a young man fresh to
the manners and customs of the wilderness. He always looked
carefully in the branches of a tree before beginning cutting
after that.
"Before Mr. Ott had lived in the West very long, he took
up a claim, five miles out from Tumwater, and built a little
shack on the land, living there alone while he cleared and got
the place ready for planting.
"He didn't spend much time or labor on the house and
used shakes he cut himself, in the construction. So flimsy
was the structure that many a night he stood guard all night
long, with an ax in his hands, to protect himself and pro-
visions from the cougars, which whined and growled at the
rude door and threatened to break in at any moment. The
wild animals smelled the meat which Mr. Ott would have in
his shack and were determined to have their share. This
lasted till he could take time to build a more secure house.
"Mr. Ott served his six months in the Indian war, as did
most of the men living here in the days of the trouble with th-,'
Indians. Plis special work was teaming for the government,
hauling supplies to the forts and wherever troops were sta-
tioned. As the rascals were anxious for the provisions and
blankets, with which the wagons were loaded, this was con-
sidered to be especially dangerous, and ]Mr. Ott used to tell
me about sleeping at nights holding the lariat ropes of his
cattle all night long to prevent a stampede.
"One night, I remember my husband telling me about, the
Indians were all around the teams and an ambush was feared
at any moment. There were five or six teamsters in the train
and their wagons were loaded with what would have been a
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 175
rich haul for the Indians. Night ^^as coming on and the men
were worried at the prospects of camping there, being al-
most sure they would be attacked before morning. A halt
was called to discuss the situation when there was seen com-
ing towards them, the most wrinkled old squaw the eye of
man had ever beheld. She must have passed the century-
mark in years, so old and feeble did she appear. Holding up
her hand in sign of peace, she came up to the men. and in
Chinook, told them not to go that way that night for they
would surely be killed if they did, but instead to camp for
the night under a certain tree which stood all by itself on a
cleared place a little way off.
"The men didn't know anything better to do, although
they were afraid of treachery on the part of the squaw. Bui
after a consultation, they decided to take the warning antl
camp where the squaw directed them to do.
"Sure enough, the tree was found just as had been de-
scribed and when the teams reached the spot, the wagons were
corraled and the men prepared to spend the night. They were
not molested, and in the morning proceeded on their way in
peace. The mystery of the squaw's protection was never ex-
plained, nor why they were not attacked during the night.
Mr. Ott often wondered if there was not some sort of an
Indian superstition about the tree which safeguarded anyone
who sought shelter beneath its branches.
"After a number of years, I\Ir. Ott prospered so well that
he began to think he Avould like to see his boyhood home and
friends again, so he went back to Switzerland on a visit. While
there he met me, then quite a young girl, and induced me to
come to America with him. We were passengers on the second
train that ever started to cross the continent.
"When I arrived here I couldn't tell 'yes' from 'no' in
English, and I thought I never would be able to make my-
self understood. I could have learned Chinook quicker than
I did English, only I was so afraid of the Indians. ]\Ir. Ott
was a favorite with them and when we got here they came in
dusky swarms, crowding right up to the door of the house
to see Jake's wife. I nearly died, I was so frightened of
them.
"I was that lonesome and liomosiek that when my Henry
176 THURSTON COUNTY
was born I thought if anything shonld happen to that baby
I'd just end it all by jumping into the bay. But he kept me
from moping around much, for he was the greatest care for a
long time. The poor little thing was so tiny that for the first
six weeks we kept him in a ten-pound tea box, wrapped in
cotton. He was too small to dress and when he was big
enough to handle, I had to make him a complete new ward-
robe, for everything I had made before he was born was too
large for him.
"When we finally decided to move from Tumwater and
came to Olympia, Mr. Ott built this house, where we have
lived ever since. Every stick in the house was put here by
Mr. Ott's own hands.
"Fifteen years ago, in August, 1899, my husband died
in this house, after an illness of only a few moments, so ful-
filling the desire of his later years that when Death called him
he would go quick.
"We have had three children, Henry, born February 18,
1870; Walter, born in Baker, Oregon, March 20, 1872; Ger-
trude, born at Globe, Arizona, February 28, 1875."
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 177
DR. ALONZO GERRY COOK
While not a Thurston County pioneer within the strictest
meaning of the term, Dr. Alonzo Gerry Cook has spent so
many summers with his daughter, Mrs. Millard Lemon, on
Puget Sound, and during his younger manhood so frequently
visited the Territorial capital in pursuit of official duty, that
a history of this section would be incomplete without some
mention of this grand old man and his devoted wife.
Born in Portland, ]\Iaine, on ^lay 13, 1839, the j'oung
Alonzo spent his infant years at this place, accompanj'ing his
parents to Illinois, settling about sixty miles from Chicago.
Here he grew to young manhood, and after graduating from a
law school, was admitted to practice law. In 1861 Mr. Cook
met and married Miss Isabella Webster. Dr. Cook's tribute
to the devotion of his wife was beautiful. He said: "My
wife, born in London, England, came to America in a sailing
vessel before steam was commonly used. The ocean trip con-
sumed six weeks, then through the Erie Canal to Buffalo, and
then through Lake Erie to Ohio. Later, after our marriage,
to Washington, then to Long Beach and Los Angeles — cows,
mules and stage being the means of conversance for the three
times this noble woman has accompanied me across the plains.
In later years we have taken the trip several times with all
the luxury and conveniences furnished by the Pullman Com-
pany, but Mrs. Cook was as cheerful and uncomplaining dur-
ing those days of hardship and trial as she was when we
traveled in comfort."
In the Spring of 1862, Mr. Cook and his girl bride started
to cross the plains with a team of four cows. After the usual
hardships attendant on the emigrant trip, the j^oung couple
finally reached The Dalles. Two of their cows succumbed
to the rigors of the trip and the wagon was hauled the last
stHges of the journey by the two remaining animals. Dr. Cook
tt'lls as characteristic the way these pioneer emigrants had to
manage, how the Snake Kiver was crossed in those days long
before man had set a pier or placed a stick in the building of
bridges across any of the western streams. "We took off
178 THURSTON COUNTY
the wagon bed, when we came to Snake River, unloaded our
plunder and my wife spared a garment and I spared another,
to tear into strips. With these we caulked the wagon box
the best we could and put it in shallow water to soak over
night. In the morning, partly loading our equipment in the
box, we started to paddle over. I steered and rowed the ex-
temporized craft the best I could, but the water rushed in in
spite of our caulking, so my wife bailed for dear life till we
landed on the far shore. Then we had to return, and make
the trip several times, for we did not dare to put much of our
plunder in at one time. The cows then swam across
the river, we reloaded and proceeded on our way, nothing
daunted and hardly considering that we had done anything
remarkable, as that was the only way of crossing large streams
in those days.
"When The Dalles was reached, we sold our remaining
cows for barely money enough to take us to Portland. This
city was then only a village of one street and few business
houses. We stayed the first night at the old Portland Hotels
a small wooden building. The next morning I went out on the
streets to look for a job. We were broke and I needed a job
the worst way. Almost the first man I met was a farmer from
Yamhill County, named Griner. He was road master in his
section and wanted a man to work on the road. He told me
he could give me and my wife house room while I was working
for him. I gladly accepted and soon was armed with a pick
and shovel. Mr. Griner was in doubt as to some of his legal
privileges in his work and asked my advice. I told him I did
not know what the local custom was but so and so was the law
on the case. He was surprised at my legal knowledge and
asked me about it. I told him I had the theory but had never
yet practised law. Mr. Griner told me to drop the pick and
shovel and take my wife and go to Lafayette, Oregon. He
wanted to send his young lady daughter to school and wanted
to board her with a cultured family, and assured us he would
see that we had enough to eat during the winter. This was
the end of our very hard times. While we were in Lafayette,
our only child, Marabell, was born."
Mr. Cook then related that soon after the birth of his
child he was offered the position of district attorney for that
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 179
section of the Northwest that is now Idaho. He went to Boise
City alone, but sent for ]\Irs. Cook and the baby within a short
time. They remained in Boise City a couple of years and then
Mr. Cook was sent to the Eastern States for the purpose of
securing a charter for the First National Bank of that city.
Chris Moore was the bank president. Ilis wife accompanied
him on this trip, which was made by stage.
Upon Mr. Cook's return to the West he settled in Van-
couver, where he became a partner in a law office with the
Hon. H. G. Struve. Struve afterwards was made District At-
torney over a group of ten counties, of which Thurston was
one. "When Struve 's term expired, Mr. Cook was elected to
succeed his former law partner.
During the two years of this service, Mr. Cook made fre-
quent trips to attend the Supreme Court in Olympia and be-
came very well acquainted v»^ith the best people of the Capitol
City. He can remember when Tacoma was only a dream of
the future, one settler, Job Carr, being the entire population
of the City of Destiny.
About this time Mr. Cook's health began to fail him, and
in looking over some medical books to investigate his ail-
ments he became interested in medicine and decided to study
that profession. He took a course in the Cooper Medical
College in San Francisco. Then he went to Chicago where he
became a graduate of the Hahnemann Homeopathic College.
During the year of 1872 Dr. and Mrs. Cook and their
young daughter went to California to make their home. They
were accompanied on this trip by William Lemon and family
to Los Angeles. Dr. Cook practised medicine in this city and
Oakland for many years.
Although the doctor has now retired from active practise
he has by no means retired from active life for when the
compiler of these reminiscences called upon him at the home
of his son-in-law, Millard Lemon, he told about having spent
the greater part of the day pruning a pear tree 50 feet high
in its top boughs.
Dr. and Mrs. Cook claim Long Beach, California, for their
home, but every summer the lure of Puget Sound calls them
and they come up and spend the hot months visiting at the
home of their only daughter, Mrs. Millard Lemon.
180 THURSTON COUNTY
WILLIAM D. KING
The history of William D. King as related by his son,
Charles D. King, is but a repetition of the sturdy expression
of the spirit of adventure which led so many from comfortable
homes in the Eastern States, to undergo the hardships and
privations of a frontier life.
In 1852, William King left his young wife, Caroline, in
their Michigan home, and crossed the plains with the customary
ox teams. Arriving in this section, the summer was spent at
Grand Mound Prairie, looking for a place of permanent loca-
tion.
In the spring of 1858, Mr. King decided to take up a dona-
tion claim in Cowlitz County, and selected a site just above the
town of Kelso on the Cowlitz River. For a couple of years Mr.
King worked on his claim, subduing the wilderness and build-
ing up a home for his young wife.
Finally, in 1855, Mrs. King was sent for, to join her hus-
band, and made the trip to Washington by way of Panama,
being among the first passengers to travel on the railroad
which had recently been built across the Isthmus. The Kings
continued to occupy their farm on the Cowlitz until the year
1863, and during this time, in 1859, their son, Charles D.,
was born.
During the time of the Indian war troubles, in 1855-56,
Mr. and Mrs. King and son were obliged to take refuge in the
block house on the Cowlitz. It was during their sojourn in this
place of refuge that their second sou, the late H. S. King,
was born.
Neighbors of the King family in the fort were the
Ostrander and the Catlin families, whose names are among the
best known of the pioneers of that section.
Mr. King was the second auditor ever elected in Cowlitz
County, which office he held for several terms.
In 1863, the family sold their donation claim and removed
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 181
to Clackamas Coimty, Oregon, afterwards settling in Umatilla
County, where they lived until the time of Mr. King's death.
This latter event occurred while he was on a trip to INIiehigan,
where he had taken his younger son to place him in school.
and was caused by a railroad wreck.
The son, Charles, then wandered forth in the world on
his own responsibility, leading the checkered career of a young
man striving to educate himself, and at the same time earn his
li\'ing on the frontier. The lad drifted to California, then to
Winnemucca, Nevada, then on into Idaho, finally settling for
several years at Weiser City, in that Territory.
It was at Winnemucca that he was admitted to practise
law, and here, too, he was living at the time of the Bannock
and Nez Perce Indian wars. Mr. King was one of the guard
stationed outside that frontier town to give warning to the
citizens of the approach of the Indians who were ravaging the
country in Idaho and Nevada, terrorizing the settlers, and
freighters, and even the inhabitants of the smaller towns, who
feared an attack. The tribes at one time joined forces and
numbered 2,000 warriors.
The younger King, before practising law, for a time, led
a wild life as a cowboy on the Idaho ranges, and during this
time was participant in many exciting adventures.
In 1891, C. D. King came to Olympia, and began the
practise of law. He still continues to live in this city.
His only brother, II. S. King, died in 01ym])ia, in 1912.
Ig2 THURSTON COUNTY
WILLIAM LEMON
William Lemon and his wife were among the pioneers of
the Cowlitz River settlement, and later of Cowlitz Prairie, and
their experiences in this section were such as to try men's
souls, until land was cleared and cultivated and neighbors
began to arrive.
The subject of this sketch, William Lemon, was born in
Orange County, New York, his parents later going to IMichi-
gan, then to Illinois, and still later out to Iowa, where they
lived for several years. Here William became a man and
was finally married to a blithe Irish lass.
The 3"oung couple, with their one child, caught the emigra-
tion fever and decided to cast their fortunes with other emi-
grants and go to Oregon, so in 1852 the trip was made with
ox teams.
When The Dalles was reached, late in the fall, Mr. Lemon
decided to leave his considerable number of cattle there to
winter, and go on down to Portland. Here he expected to
find work at his trade of carpenter.
However, before the little family reached this point, an
important event happened. Their second child was born. His
birth place was beside the Snake River in what is now Idaho,
but was then comprised within the Oregon boundary. His
cradle was a box in the wagon bed, his lullaby the rustle of
the wind through the sage brush and grease wood. His mother
told, to the time of her last illness, how the little fellow cried
day and night, after he was taken into the house, for the rock-
ing of the wagon> That child is now Millard Lemon of
Olympia.
When spring came, Mr. Lemon went back to The Dalles
to round up his cattle. The winter had been a hard one, and in
common with many other emigrants, who had hoped their
cattle would winter without other feed than what the animals
could pick up on the ranges, Mr. Lemon lost every one of
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 183
his cattle except one ox. OAving to the hardness of the winter
and unexpected rush of emigration during the year of 1852-3,
the crop of potatoes produced by the few farmers around
Portland was soon used up and the prices for this vegetable
soared to the sky. The elder Lemon thought there must be
a fortune in potatoes, judging from the price he was obliged
to pay. So when spring came, he took his family and went on
up to the Cowlitz country, took up a piece of land, and put it
all in potatoes. As everyone else in the country had been pos-
sessed with the same inspiration, there was almost no giving
this humble vegetable away, and prices scarcely paid for the
digging.
It was while living on this homestead on the Cowlitz River
that the baby who had come to the Lemon family on the plains
nearly lost his life in a tragic manner. The little fellow had
just begun to toddle and was playing around the door step
of his father's cabin, when an immense eagle circled above his
head, and was just swooping down to seize the child, when his
father caught sight of the bird and shot it. The eagle's body
fell into the river, but it was a narrow escape, and one of the
mother's favorite tales to her children when they gathered
around her knee in the gloaming.
Becoming dissatisfied wuth the place on the river, ]\Ir.
Lemon went to Cowlitz Prairie and took up a donation claim
of a half a section of land. Here the family was living during
the time of the Indian war, seeking refuge with the other
families on this prairie, in the block house on the Parsons'
place. The women and children would stay in the block house
and the men fare forth during the day to till the soil and
gather in the crops, returning to spend the night with their
families within the safety of the block house enclosure.
]Mr. ]\Iillard Lemon has in his possession to this day the
gun which his father used to put over his shoulder when it
Avas his turn to stand guard, and to protect himself with, while
tilling the land. This was the same gun that ended the life
of the eagle I have told about.
Mr. Lemon, .^enior. in after years, received the pension
awarded Indian war veterans. At this time the Cowlitz
Prairie was principally settled with French Canadians, servants
of the Hudson Bay Company, and a class of people who cared
1.84 THURSTON COUNTY
but little for educational advantages, so the mother insisted
that the family must go somewhere that the children could go
to school.
Claquato, the county seat of Lewis County, was selected.
Here, for four j^ears, the Lemon children w^ere taught by JMiss
Peebles, one of the Mercer girls, and who afterwards became
Mrs. A. McLitosh, of Seattle. ^Millard Lemon gives this lady
a just due of praise, by affirming that she was the best
teacher he ever had, and as he is a college graduate, he must
have had many and good ones, too.
While residing on Cowlitz Prairie and Claquato, Mrs.
Lemon made many visits to friends in Olympia, and Millard
Lemon's early recollections include chasing the coavs over what
is now Capitol Park, but was then only a wilderness of fallen
logs, brush and stumps. His companion in his boyhood days,
and favorite chum, w^as Fred Guyot, then a lad of about nine
years, and in Mr. Lemon's own words, "as fine a lad as ever
lived."
In 1874, the Lemon family went to live in Los Angeles.
California. But after spending several years in that place,
decided to return to Washington. Olympia was selected as
the place of residence this time, and here Mr. and Mrs. Lemon
built the house on Eighth Street that was the family home
for years, and where life ended for Mr. Lemon, in 1890. Mrs.
Lemon lived on in the old home for another seven years, and
then she joined her husband.
To Mr. and Mrs. Lemon were born seven children : Thomas,
Millard, Frances, Marion, Alice, Edwin and Ida. ]Millard and
Ida are the only ones of the family still living. Ida is now
]\Irs. Mann, and lives in the family home. A granddaughter
— child of Alice — Mrs. C. Goldstein, who is now Mrs. Garrett,
has lived in Olympia the past few years, formerly making her
home in Seattle.
The lad, Millard, studied out of the same reader with
Fred Guyot, and sat on the same bench in the little old log
school house with the little girl who afterwards became Mrs.
Charles Talcott, the first wife of one of Olympia 's pioneer
jewelers. While a student at the State University of Oregon
at Salem, ]\Iillard Lemon had as classmates, Stephen J. Chad-
wick, now Judge of the Supreme Court of AVashington ; C. S.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 185
wiek, Judge of the Supreme Court, and C. S. Rienhfirt. who
has been clerk of the same court since Washington l)eca!He
a State, and the late Frank ]\I. McCully, Avho was Dej^uty
Superintendent of Public Instruction of Washington at the
time of his death, in Olympia, in ]907.
In 1876, ]\Iillard entered De Pauw University at Green
Castle, Indiana, from Avhich institution he graduated in 1880,
taking the degree of A. B. Afterwards he took a classical
course and secured his degree of A. M. from the California
State University. Following his graduation, Mr. Lemon had
a varied career.
Through the suggestion of Bishop Taylor, he went to
Santiago, Chile, and was one of the founders of Santiago Col-
lege, W'here he was head of the boys department. ]\Ir. Lemon's
stay w^th this college lasted two years.
At the expiration of this period, Mr. Lemon engaged in
railroad engineering in the State of Chile, continuing in this
w'ork for the following six years.
Returning to the United States in 1888, JMr. Lemon so-
journed long enough at Long Beach, California, to become
united in marriage to his boyhood's sw^eetheart, Marabelle
Cook. The young couple then came to Olympia to visit
]\Iillard's father and mother. The business prospects of the
Capitol City Avere bright, so they decided to make this city
their home.
Mr. Lemon has been successful in financial affairs and
is today rated as one of the most solidly successful business
men, not only in Oh'mpia, but the entire State of Washing-
ton; a man who takes pride in the description, "His w^ord is
as good as his bond."
Three children brighten the Lemon home, Edith, Mildred
and Gerry.
18S THURSTON COUNTY
I. HARRIS & SONS
The name of Harris, father and sons, has been so prom-
inently identified with the commercial and social life of
Olympia for the past forty-five years that a history of Thurston
County would be incomplete, indeed, without a sketch of this
family. Although. Mr. I. Harris located in Olympia as late as
1870, he may well be counted among the actual pioneers of
the Coast, for with his bride, then a young girl of nineteen
years of age, he arrived in Oregon in 1853. The voyage from
their New York home was made by the way of Panama to San
Francisco, then on up to Portland. The first stop was made in
Salem, Oreg-on. At this place, Mr. Harris engaged in a general
merchandise business, but later concluded to try his fortune
in "Walla Walla. The family made the trip to the latter place
by stage, from The Dalles.
Mr. Harris was one of the leading merchants in Walla
Walla for the next four years, but the wanderlust was not
yet satisfied, so another move was made into the wilds of
Montana. Mrs. Harris, with her two small sons, Mitchel and
Gus, visited relatives in the Eastern States while Mr. Harris
was trying his fortune in Montana.
The climate of this section of the West not agreeing with
Mr. Harris, he decided to try Puget Sound. Olympia was at
that time beginning to attract attention, and the tide of
emigration seemed to be setting in strong for the Northwest,
so this settlement was chosen as the next field of activities.
That Mr. Harris was pleased with his selection, is manifest
from the fact that Olympia was his home from that elate, 1870,
to the day of his death.
AVhen her husband was finally located in Olympia, Mrs.
Harris and little sons joined him.
A third son, Henry, was born after ]Mr. and j\Irs. Harris
had lived here a few years.
The first store building occupied by Mr. Harris, was
in the Tilley block, corner of Third and Main Streets, and a
line of general merchandise was carried, although the Indian
trade was largelv catered to and a brisk business was carried
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 187
on with the natives, who bartered skins for gaudy lilankets
and bright colored beads.
For several years the Harris family lived in a neat little
home on the corner of Fourth and Washington Streets, the
land now being used for business purposes, and the house long
since demolished.
At that time the home of T. F. McElroy was by all odds
the finest in the town, and was considered quite in the sub-
urbs, surrounded, as it was, by the almost untouched forest.
]\Ir. Harris, in about the year 1880, became the possessor of the
half block of land between Main and Washington Streets, and
built the substantial house which still continues to be the
family residence. The Harris boys attended the schools of
Olympia, at one time, being students in the little school taught
by Miss Mary O'Neal.
Later, the two elder sons. ^Mitchel and Gus. were sent to
Portland, Oregon, to take special courses in German and music.
Fpon the completion of their education, they assisted their
father in his business, and the firm name was changed from
I. Harris, to Harris & Sons.
In the year 1896, Mr. Harris, senior, while on an Eastern
trip, contracted pneumonia and died before his sons could reach
his bedside.
The sons continued the business, which had developed into
one of the leading dry goods stores on the Sound, for several
years.
With the exception of a short time spent in San Francisco,
where he was engaged in business, INIitchel Harris has success-
fully carried on the business founded l)y his father forty-five
years ago.
In about 1900, the second son, Gus, decided to locate in
California, and is now at the head of a large dry goods estab-
lishment in Los Angeles, his partner being Felix Lightner, a
native of Olympia, and son of a pioneer merchant of this place.
The youngest son, Henry, decided to devote himself to the
medical profession. Consequently, after completing a course £t
the Leland Stanford University, he graduated from the John
Hopkins Institute.
Dr. Harris also spent a year as interne in this institution.
He then put in two years \n tlie hospitals of Berlin and Vienna,
188
THURSTON COUNTY
taking special courses in medicine. Upon his return to the
United States, he located in San Francisco, where he has built
up a large practice. He is married and has three children.
Mitchel Harris, loyal to the home of his boyhood, with his
wife and children, Sehvyn and Irene, has been twice chosen
to the office of Mayor of the city by the vote of the people,
and at all times has stood strong for the best interests of the
community, and the development and advancement of Olympia.
His family are prominent in the best society of the city, and in
many ways his lot is cast in pleasant places.
The widow and mother, IMadame Harris, as she is now
called, is spending her declining years in happiness and con-
tentment, idolized by her sons and her grandchildren. Some-
times visiting Gus and his charming family in Los Angeles,
for a few months in the year, coming to Oh-mpia for the hot
weather months, and then back to the home of her youngest
born, in San Francisco.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 189
ALEXANDER YANTIS
The history of Alex Yantis and his family, while, per-
haps, not more filled with adventnre and trials than that
of contemporaneous pioneer settlers, is so characteristic and
vivid, as related hy the sons and daughters still living, that
their experiences merit a prominent place in this collection of
reminiscences.
Hailing from Brownsville, Missoviri, the Yantis family,
consisting of ]\Ir. and jNIrs. Yantis and nine sturdj^ sons and
daughters, joined a train of ox teams for the overland trip
to California. ]\Ir. Yantis was elected captain of the train and
the trip was made without any direct disturbance from the
Indians, the attacks of whom was the emigrants' constant dread
and terror all through the long, hot, dusty journey over the
old Oregon Trail. Although the trip was unavoidably tedious,
as the oxen w'ere tired and footsore, still many of the re-
membrances of the younger ones of that tr^^inload are pleasant
and full of interest. The big camp fires at night, when all
gathered around telling and listening to tales of home and
adventure, the novel experiences each day "would bring forth,
the laying by for one day's rest each week to allow the women
to w^ash the clothes and bake up a supply of bread, while the
children played around the wagons and picked the many-hued
flowers which grew by the side of the road. These were among
the simple pleasures which made the trip endurable and almost
enjoyable. The Yantis sons and daughters still tell with glee
of the fun and play of the trip, whenever a family reunion is
held. They were a happy family, with the family ties tender
and close to this day, among the children who survive.
The nearest to a tragedy encountered was w^hen the Snake
River countrj^ was reached. At a certain point in the trail
the road diverged and a sign post was set up by some previous
traveller indicating that by following one of the roads a
nearer cut-off would be found, although through a wilder
190 THURSTON COUNTY
country. One family decided to take this nearer trail although
earnestly remonstrated with by I\Ir. Yantis and other men of
the train, whose counsel was that all should stick together.
But the man was obstinate and by this time had grown care-
less of the danger from Indians, so persisted in following the
short traiL The rest of the party proceeded on to Snake River
fort, where there were a small company of soldiers to protect
the emigrants. It was known that the Indians were near and
acting' ugly. Indeed, the night before the fort was reached,,
the emigrants of Mr. Yantis' party could see a band of the
enemy dancing a war dance in a bottom of land close to the
camp. Their horrid yells and vehement brandishing of their
guns and bows filled the whites with terror, which was not
abated wh-en an Indian buck came dashing up to Mr. Yantis'
wagon and asked him to sell his little daughter, Sarah, to
him. The Indian offered his horse for the child, and when
refused by the parents, rode off in a rage. The night was
spent in anxious watchfulness, but the Indians evidently con-
eluded that the party was too strong for them to risk an
attack on, so left them unmolested.
When Snake River fort was reached and it was learned
that the two wagons, whose drivers had taken the short cut,
had not arrived, it was known that they had met with dis-
aster. Mr. Yantis and several men of the train went back
over the trail their friends should have arrived from. Before
they reached the wagons they heard shots and screams. Dash-
ing up, their worst fears were confirmed. The Indians had
raided the wagons, shot and killed the man and his wife, and
all the rest of the party, with the exception of two boys. One
of these boys was lying on his face when the relief party came
up, his body shot with a number of Indian arrows. He was not
dead, however, and upon hearing Mr. Yantis' exclamations of
horror over the fate of the rest of the family, called: "Is
that you. Uncle Alex." The other boy was carried off by
the Indians, when they stampeded, upon hearing the relief
party charging up. The lad was afterwards brought back
to the train by a Nez Perce Indian, another tribe than the one
which had committed the massacre of the rest of the party.
With a redskin's customary reticence, the deliverer refused to
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 191
give particulars of how he eaiiie to have the lad in his
possession.
Two years before the Yantis family, which is the subject
of these reminiscences, decided to leave their home, a brother
of Mr. Yantis, B. F. Yantis, and sister of these men, Mrs. N.
Ostrander, had preceded them, coming to the Cowlitz country,
and a little later Mr. Yantis coming on to 01;^Tnpia. The
prospects in the undeveloped Northwest looked so good to this
advance guard that they wished their brother's family to come
West also and locate near them. Alex Yantis had written his
brother and sister that he intended going to California that
summer, ^starting at a certain time. B. F. Yantis thought nis
brother would miss a golden opportunity if he failed to locate
in this section of the country, so hired a man to ride horse-
back back along the trail his brother must come, to intercept
him with a letter setting forth the advantages of Thurston
County. The man rode along the trail to where it branched
off and led to California. Learning from other emigrants
that the ones sought for had probably not reached this inter-
section yet, the courier waited till the brother's train arrived.
When iMr. Yantis read his brother's message, a longing to
see his kinsfolks came over him, and as all places in the West
were alike to the adventurers, they decided to come on to
Oregon — now Washington.
After carefully considering the tAvo trails then commonly
followed by emigrant trains, the Natchez Pass, or to The Dalles
and on down the Columl)ia River, jMr. Yantis decided on the
Natchez Pass. With almost incredible hardship and danger,
the cattle were driven through this pass, and the wagons fre-
f[uently having to be lowered down declivities Avith ropes, but
finally the train got out on the White River plains and so on
to the Sound country. Soon after their arrival on Bush Prairie
Mr. Yantis located on 320 acres of fine timber land on the
Skookumchuck, four miles froin where Tenino now stands,
the eldest son, John Yantis, residing on this homestead after
the death of his father and mother.
The first home was the typical settlers' log cabin, which
was built during the winter of 1854. During the building of
this cabin, the Yantis family lived Avith Wm. and Phillip
Northcraft, bachelors, and the nearest neighbors. Soon after
192 THURSTON COUNTY
moving into the new house, the entire country vv^as startled by
the Indian outbreak. The stories that came pouring in of
homes devastated, men and women and children killed and
general havoc, filled the settlers with alarm. A tract of lana
on Grand Mound Prairie was donated and there the men
assembled and built a stockade, or fort, which was known as
Fort Henness. This enclosure was twelve feet high, built of
solid lumber and so arranged that each family could have
their little house within the safe precincts. In the center of the
enclosure stood the guard house, where the men who were
not on picket duty would assemble to warm themselves, swap
stories and gossip. At two of the corners were block houses
built with special reference to defense, in the event of an at-
tack. These houses were only a few feet square at the base
with steps leading to the upper part. Here the logs were
longer and the upper story extended out several feet. There
were port holes through the log wall, to shoot through, and
these houses were of sufficient size to hold all the people in
the event of the natives rushing the stockade.
The Yantis family lived in this way for a year, IMr. Yantis
and his sons g'oing forth mornings to cultivate their fields,
and returning to their cabin in the enclosure at night.
While Fort Henness was never attacked by the Indians,
the elder of the Yantis brothers are enabled to recall one ex-
citing incident which occurred during their occupancy of the
fort. One day an Indian woman came dashing up on her
cayuse, with her face streaming with blood. She was closely
pursued by an Indian buck, the latter wnld with drink. When
the fort was reached, the woman threw herself from her horse
and ran into one of the cabins, crawling under the bed. The
Indian, who proved to be her husband, stopped when within
the enclosure and I\Ir. Yantis stepped up to his pony and
demanded to know what was the trouble. The Indian reached
behind him, as ]\Ir. Yantis thought to get a gun. when the
white man pulled him off his horse by the hair of his head.
It afterward transpired that the Indian was reaching for a
bottle of whiskey he had in the holster, with the intention
of treating.
The woman in the meantime made her escape and rode
off across the clearing. When the husband was a little sobered
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 193
down he started after his wife, threatening dire acts when he
should overtake her. He had not g'one far from the stockade
when a shot was heard and, upon the men going out to inves-
tigate, the Indian was found lying beside the trail w^ith a bullet
hole in his head. The men took a Avagon box and covered
the body until the Indian agent could be notified. It was
commonly reported that the band, of which the dead Indian
was a member, tortured the unfortunate wnfe to death, as an
example to the other squaws of the tribe never to thwart their
lords. It was never known definitely who fired the shot
which made at least one good Indian, but at this late day it
is shrewdly suspected that the man's name could be recalled
b.y the surviving inhabitants of the fort.
Before the Indian Avar Mr. Yantis had accumulated a large
band of cattle, but he was obliged to sell and dispose of nearly
£il the animals to support his family during these hard times.
The wheat which Mr. Yantis raised on his place was taken
■;o the mill in TumAvater, then a two days' journey over roug:h,
muddy roads, from the home place on the Skookumchuek. The
grain was then ground into flour, paying the miller a toll of
:)ne-eighth for the milling. The farmer was alloAved to keep
the bran and shorts.
With a family of fourteen children to sev\' for. a number
of AA'hom were girls, it Avas an eventful day in the Yantis
family when the mother had her first seAving machine, one
of those little affairs Avhich are scrcAved onto the table and
run by hand. The elder girls can not remember Avhen they first
learned to knit. Their mother would spin the yarn and tli<'
girls knit mittens and socks, Avhich they had no trouble in
disposing of to the bachelors living on ranches in the vicinity.
Sometimes a pair of hand-made mittens would bring a dollar,
and the girls Avere enabled to add quite a little to the family
finances in this Avay.
Mr. Yantis Avas a member of the legislatures of 1860-63,
county commissioner several terms, and Avas justice of the
peace for his neighborhood for many years, holding the latter
office at the time of his death, which occurred when he Avas
72 years of age. The w^ife and mother, who had endured Avith
unparalleled cheerfulness and fortitude, trials and vicissitudes
194 THURSTON COUNTY
enough to appall one less strong and brave of heart, ceased
her labors in the year of 1877.
The sons and daughters of this branch of the Yantis
family were : Margaret, afterwards Mrs. E. K. Sears ; Ann E.,
afterwards Mrs. Wm. Martin ; Mary L., afterwards Mrs. John
F. Damon, of Seattle ; Sarah E., afterwards Mrs. A. Webster ;
John L. ; Katherine T., afterwards Mrs. Jesse Martin ; William
F. ; Alexander M. ; Sophia Belle, now Mrs. L. Willey, of
Olympia; Eliza B., afterwards Mrs. S. Hanaford, of Hanaford
Valley ; Martha M., afterwards Mrs. N. Gary, of Tenino ; James
E. ; Virginia T., afterwards Mrs. H. A. Davis, of Centralia, and
Fannie G.
James E. and Fanny G. died in infancy.
The donation claim on the Skookumchuck, started in an
unbroken wilderness, has become one of the finest and most
valuable farms in Thurston County. It has always been owned
by a Yantis, Mr. John Yantis succeeding his father as owner
and manager. Here, surrounded by an interesting family of
sons and daughters, in company of his wife, who has done her
share towards building up the home, Mr. Yantis loves to recall
once again the strenuous and exciting experiences of his boy-
hood days.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 195
GUST AVE ROSENTHAL
The following sketch, by Olympia's pioneer merchant,
gives so true and life-like a picture of early business conditions,
that it is presented word for word as written by Mr. Rosenthal
himself, in compliance with a request that he furnish some of
his experiences for this volume :
To comply with your request, I most respectfully submit
the following:
I arrived in Olympia on June 19th, 1863, fifty-one j^ears
ago this date ; made first acquaintance by being introduced to
Governor Pickering, then chief executive of Washington Terri-
tory. At that time the trip from San Francisco to Victoria
cost sixty dollars, and from Victoria to Olympia cost twenty
dollars.
I commenced business on the corner of Second and Main
Streets, selling general merchandise, dry goods, clothing, gro-
ceries, hardware, crockery and glassware, boots and shoes,
rubber goods, farm implements, etc.
In the summer of 1869 I brought the first mowing machine,
a Buckeye, to Olympia, and sold it to Thomas Rutledge; also
the first water ram for Nathan Eaton, which to my knowledge
was in operation of late years, on the creek, the farm now
being owned by Mrs. Bushnell.
In those early days the farmers were not rich, and needed
assistance. In 1866, I furnished some of them with hatchets
and drawing knives with which to cut the hazel brush off their
land, and by advancing supplies through the winter, they con-
verted the sticks into barrel and keg hoops, with which I
supplied the San Francisco sugar refineries for over twelve
years.
In those early days land was not being so closely fenced,
and farmers kept large flocks of sheep. I bought their wool
after shearing time and shipped annually from forty to sixty
196 THURSTON COUNTY
tons; in fact, handled and shipped and sold a good many of
their farm products.
At that time, it was hard for settlers to reach this county.
Emigrants crossing the continent had to follow the Columbia
River, which landed them at or near Portland, so in 1869, I
collected a subscription — about four hundred dollars. This I
handed to ]Mr. James Longmire, of Yelm Prairie, and he super-
intended the construction of a wagon road through the Natchez
Pass, over the Cascade Mountains. The first use of the road
was made by Mr. Sam Coulter, bringing a band of cattle, which
produced very choice beef.
Since that time various parties have discovered different
kinds of minerals in the Cascade Mountains, and mineral
springs have been discovered and attractive places and health
resorts established, and the government of the United States
has built a fine road and designated Mount Rainier and sur-
rounding country a park, which I suggested.
In 1872, I opened up and developed the second coal mine
then in Washington Territory, in Lewis County, and built a
house there, in the shape of a blacksmith shop from which
since grew what constitutes now the thriving city of Chehalis.
From this mine I shipped the first train load of coal on the
Northern Pacific Railway ever hauled over that road, to Port-
land, Oregon ; but as the railroad did not extend beyond
Kalama, I was compelled to reload onto scows and have them
towed to Portland. I also sent the first trainload of coal
over the Northern Pacific Railway they ever hauled to
Tacoma.
In 1873 I loaded schooners with piles to build wharves in
San Francisco. In 1874 I furnished hewn spars and ship
knees — paid 25 cents per inch for knees— as cargo for the ship
W. H. Bessy loading then at Brown's wharf, at AVest Olympia.
The ship sailed from here, around Cape Horn, to Goss & Sawyer
at Bath, Maine, and the cargo proved a profitable investment
for the consignees.
The treasury of the city, and likewise of the county, was
of small amounts. The citizens of Olympia, in 1867, wanted a
railroad to connect with the Northern Pacific Railway at
Tenino, so one fine day, men, women and children gathered
at Warren's Point, held a picnic and commenced the railroad
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 197
toward that point. I broke ground and donated forty acres
of timber land towards the enterprise.
In former years, and up to and including 1868, the oysters
were sold only by Indian women, carrying a basket of a quarter
bushel on their backs, supported by a strap across their fore-
heads. They sold them at 25 cents per basket. I shipped some
to Portland, San Francisco and Victoria at $1.50, which bring
at present as high as $9.00 a sack, during the oyster season;
hence I started the oyster business which brings an immense
amount of money annually to the Sound country.
On July 3, 1866, on a trip to Portland, three days of in-
tense heat, after a cold spring, caused the Cowlitz River to
rise to its banks, and some places overflow its banks. Canoe
transportation being the only means of conveyance, after leav-
ing Pumphries a short distance, the Indian pretended to scold
at other Indians, none of whom were in sight, and as we were
going over some riffles, the Indian said to me, "Nanitch acook
chuck mika bias cultus Demanimus." Translated, "See this
water, your God is a very bad spirit." The only fellow pas-
sengers were two children, a boy and a girl, eight and ten
years of age. I produced an instrument from my hip pocket
and commanded him to manage his paddle correctly, or I'd
send him to his "Demanimus". He then apologized, saying
he meant no harshness against me, only some Siwashes in the
woods, and the trip continued to Monticello without additional
events.
Comparing the present condition of this country with
former years, it appears more like walking into a parlor.
198 THURSTON COUNTY
JOHN HENRY WILLIAM STERNBERG
When E. S. Salomon, who had just been appointed Gov-
ernor of Washington Territory, arrived in Olympia, he was
accompanied by a number of men whose names have since be-
come prominently identified with the history of the Capital
city. Such men as Major J. S. Hayden, Ross G. O'Brien,
Philip Hiltz, and the subject of this sketch, John H. W.
Sternberg.
]\Ir. Sternberg was a native of Germany, having been born
there in 1825. When still a young man, he bade adieu to the
Fatherland and came to America, settling in Chicago, where
he soon acquired considerable property. He was a furrier
by trade and a superior workman. Governor Salomon in-
duced Sternberg to come to Washington with his party and
establish himself in the fur trading business. With visions of
wealth and rapidly acquired fortune to be gained in the West
through bartering with the Indians for the furs of wild ani-
mals which were so plentiful before the march of civilization
drove them to the remote parts of the mountains, Sternberg
accepted Salomon's offer.
Mrs. Sternberg and four children were left behind in the
home in Chicago, but after Salomon had been in Olympia a
couple of years, he engaged Mr. Sternberg to return to Chicago
and organize a colony to emigrate to Puget Sound. Salomon
realized that the vast resources of this country imperatively
demanded more men and women to develop them and subdue
the wilderness. As an organizer, Mr. Sternberg was very
successful, and upon his return, was accompanied by a con-
siderable number of emigrants. Mrs. Salomon and Mrs. Stern-
berg also came out with this party.
The trip was made by rail on the second train making the
transcontinental trip. When Oakland was reached the party
embarked on the steamer Idaho with Capt. Doane. This was
the last sea trip of this doughty old sea captain, as after that
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 199
he settled down in Olympia and started the famous Home
of the Pan Roast.
When the coh)nists reached Steilaeoom, the majority of
them remained at the military post at that place. Governor
Salomon had made arrangements for their support, until the
men could locate on homesteads. In addition to this encour-
agement, the homeseekers were supplied with teams, farming
implements and supplies, payment to be made out of the crops
as the settlers were able.
Mr. and Mrs. Sternberg's first experiences upon the family
reaching Olympia were boarding for several weeks at the old
Gallagher Hotel, and both the husband and wife were confined
to their beds for several weeks with fever.
Later they went to housekeeping in a cottage situated
on the block bounded by Eighth and Ninth, Adams and Jeffer-
son Sreets.
Mr. Sternberg now began buying furs from the Indians,
making extensive voyages up and down the Sound, even going
as far as Bellingham in his canoe. Mink, wolf, bear, sable and
muskrat skins were bought or traded for and made up into
fashionable wearing apparel by the skilled workman, although
the bulk of INIr. Sternberg's stock of furs were sent by boat to
Eastern markets. He once made a cape from sable skins for
Mrs. Salomon that was valued, even in those days, at one
thousand dollars, and would be almost priceless today. In all
his dealings with the Indians, ]Mr. Sternberg always met with
honesty, courtesy and fair dealing.
Priests Point Mission was at this time deserted by the
band of Oblat priests and the Sternberg family moved from
town to the Mission.
The buildings were falling into decay, all but the chapel.
This ]\Ir. Sternberg partitioned off into living rooms and the
family took possession.
Mrs. Sophia Sternberg, in relating her experiences, de-
scribes the life there as lonely and dreary, almost beyond en-
durance. The windows were so high in the church walls
that it was impossible to look out without standing on a chair.
There was no road to town, only a rough trail ; no neighbors
within a mile, and to add to the loneliness, an Indian cemetery
was within a few feet of the church, beside the trail. The
200
THURSTON COUNTY
bodies were fastened iu the tree tops on rude platforms, as
was the savage manner of disposing- of the dead.
At one time, while lying sick on a platform down by the
beach, which Mr. Sternberg had built for his wife, she saw a
deer come almost up to her bed, and frequently the wild ani-
mals would come to the border of their clearing.
Tiring of this lonely wa,y of living the Sternbergs re-
turned to Olympia and built the house on Union Street which
was the Sternberg home for many 3^ears. Here j\Ir. Sternberg
died, on May 6, 1893.
The children born to Mr. and Mrs. Sternberg are : William,
Minnie, Julius and Dora, born in Chicago, and Emma and
Oscar, born in Olympia.
William died in the summer of 1914 in Kansas City.
Minnie died in Olympia many years ago. Julius makes his
home in Alaska. Dora is now ]\Irs. L. B. Faulknor. Emma
is Mrs. Albert Darling, and Oscar lives in Seeattle.
Mrs. Sophia Sternberg makes her home with Mr. and Mrs.
Darling.
CIvANKICK CROSBY
A. S. YANTIS
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PHIIJP NORTHCRAFT
WIL,IJAM BII^I^INGS
DEIvATE TILLICUMS
JUDGE O. B. McFADDEN
kuKKRT FROST
REESE BREWER THEODORE BROWN
MORE TILLICUMS
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 201
ROBERT FROST
Robert Frost, or Judge Frost, as his friends best know
this sturdy Pioneer, sailor, artizan, Indian fighter, merchant,
capitalist, judge of the police court, holding office in Thurston
County, has led a varied and, at times, exciting career. Born
in Tunbridge Wells, England, in the year of 1825, the subject
of this sketch grew to young manhood in jMerrie England,
going to school in London. Being apprenticed to learn the
plasterer's trade, there was little in his early boyhood life
to indicate what an eventful career lay before him.
In 1853, the desire to see the world and share in the big
things of life, induced the young man to leave home and
enlist as a sailor. His first seafaring experience was on a coal
brig running along the English coast. Later he shipped on a
fruit schooner bound for Mediterranean ports. Then on a
deep sea vessel visiting both the Atlantic and Pacific ports.
San Francisco was reached on one of his voyages in 1855.
He then re-shipped on the brig Susan Abigail for Portland,
Oregon, crossing the Columbia bar on New Year's day, 1856.
Arriving at Portland, the prospects of the new country were
so alluring to him that he decided to (|uit his seafaring life
and cast his fortune in the Northwest.
Mr. Frost began again working at his trade of plasterer
in Portland, Oregon City and The Dalles. It was while work-
ing in this latter town that he became excited over the stories
received of the big strikes made on the Frazer River. Every-
one who could muster up an outfit was going to the gold fields,
so the young man joined the Dave McLaughlin party of 100
men and started on what proved to be one of the most tlii-illing
experiences of his life. The story of this excursion is given
in Mr. Frost's own words at the end of this sketch.
Disgusted with the result of his mining experience, our
hero decided to come to Olympia. The first work Mr. Frost
engaged in upon his arrival here was in a printing office.
202 THURSTON COUNTY
Although he kept at this for three years, the road to wealth
nor fame did not lie that way, so he returned to the following'
of his boyhood trade. As the town was rapidly building up
and the wages paid for plasterers was good, he soon had a
financial start, which later grew into a quite respectable
competence.
In 1870, Mr. Frost purchased an interest in the hardware
store of F. A. Hoifman and under the firm name of Hoffman
& Frost continued in business for the following three years.
At the end of that time Mr. Frost became sole owner of the
business. The hardware store of Robert Frost was one of the
prominent business places in the Capital City for upwards
of 30 years. Later the owner disposed of the store and be-
came County Treasurer. This office he held for a couple of
terms and has since been elected and appointed several times
to the office of Police Judge.
Mr. Frost was one of the original stockholders of the
first gas works and electric plant in the city, and upon its
consolidation with the Olympia Light & Power Company, he
was elected Vice President. At one time Mr. Frost was a
director of the First National Bank. These are only a few
of the important positions of trust and honor he has held in
the city. In the year 1862, INIr. Frost married Sliss Louisa
Holmes, the daughter of one of Olympia 's Pioneers. The
young couple built themselves the home on East Bay Avenue
which has been the Frost home ever since. Here, JMrs. Frost
died and here were born their four children — Nell, Caroline.
Florence and Anna. Florence is now Sirs. Charles Garfield
of Nome Alaska. Anna is Mrs. John Aldrich of Spokane.
Caroline died at the family home a few years ago, and the
remaining daughter. Miss Frost, keeps house and cares for
her father in his declining years.
An account of a trip from The Dalles, Oregon, to the
Frazer River, at the time of the gold excitement in 1858, in-
cluding a description of an Indian fight on the trip, was written
by Mr. Frost, and is now preserved in the Spokane Historical
Society and the historical collection belonging to the State
University of Washington. The description of the fight is
given with a clearness and excellent choice of words that show
the writer was possessed of a considerable literary ability.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 203
After describing the incidents of the trip, ]\Ir. Frost
relates :
"We struck the Columbia Kiver opposite the mouth of
the Okanogan River, at which place was the old Hudson Bay
fort. Here we had to get canoes and Indians to ferry us and
our supplies over, and there we had to swim our horses. We
lost three or four horses in the stream. I was unfortunate
enough to lose my best horse. I felt then as if I had lost
my best friend. I had bought the horse from an Indian at
Walla Walla, perfectly wild and unbroken, but in three or
four days I had him a perfect pet. He would follow me around
and when I stopped would come and put his head on my
shoulder for a caress. After all these years I have not, and
never shall forget him.
"The old Hudson Bay trail, which we were following
up the Okanogan River, was first on one side of the river
and then on the other. One morning we were on the right
bank, when we came to a rocky bluff which ran out to the
river, so we had to make a detour to the right and go through
what is now known as ^IcLaughlin Canyon, before we could
get to the river again. I have not seen this canyon since, but
as I remember it, it is quite narrow, with high perpendicular
walls, with natural terraces or benches, only accessible froni
the northern end. At the southern end it was an utter im-
possibility to get at any one on these benches except with a
rifle.
"Now, evidently, the Indians had their runners out and
were prepared for us, for they had gotten on to these benches,
threw up rock breastworks, and laid for us.
"Every morning in starting out we had a head and a
rear guard, generally from six to ten men in each. We woukl
change about. This morning I was in the rear. The head
guard had gotten well into the canyon, as well as part of the
train. The object of the Indians was to get us all in the canyon.
Had they succeeded, very few of us would have gotten out
alive.
"As it was, an Indian on one of the benches showed him-
self and one of the head guard saw him and gave the alarm.
Then they opened fire. As quick as possible the horses were
hurried back to the river and all took what shelter they could
204 THURSTON COUNTY
get, and drew a bead on an Indian -whenever a chance offered.
After the animals were down on the flat every available man
with a gun went up to the front.
"There were six killed in the start. I do not remember
their names excepting one, Jesse Rice, from Cashe Creek,
California.
"There were several wounded. I recollect Tom Menefee.
who was afterward well known to Cariboo men, having kept
a road house at Williams Lake. Tom was badly wounded—
shot in several places with slugs, also William R. Wright, a
brother of Capt. Tom Wright, a prominent steamboat man on
the Sound, and Jim Lowry from Vancouver.
"Jim was badly shot, and here occurred an instance of
bravery such as is seldom equalled. Lowry and Bill Burton
vrere partners, and were the first to take shelter, Indian
fashion and fight. They were some 200 yards apart, sheltered
by some scrub pines, but Lowry was shot down. As he fell,
he called to Brunton, who deliberately left his cover, ran over
to his partner and picked him up, got him on his shoulder
and carried him to the rear.
"About noon we had to give way and retreat to a little
hill across from the canyon, from where the men plugged
long shots that afternoon and night. The rest were engaged
in building cottonwood rafts and carrying the freight across
the river into the open country. An Indian will never fight
in the open unless he has all the advantage possible. Several
of our men were busy carrying water to our men on the hill
side.
"During the night we ferried everything across the river
and by daylight had the horses herded together. We run them
down the river a few hundred yards to a ford and got them
safely across. The Indians followed us in a parallel along the
mountain and gave us a parting volley, but did no damage,
as the range was too long. We stayed in camp here several
days attending to our wounded. Now, it is well known that
the average sailor is very handy and a good all around man
most anywhere. We had in our company an Irish sailor, who
had been in the English navy and who had been through the
Crimean war at Sebastopol.
"He was the nearest we had to a doctor. Several of the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
205
boys had along a box of pills. lie selected one and gave each
wounded man a dose, then made a clean pointed stick to probe
the wounds enough to keep them open, and after washing
them laid a pad of wet cloth on the wounds. The 'doctor'
would go around twice or more a day and probe and wash
and he, with the pills, stick, cloth and water did the whole
business. They all got well, but it took Manefee the longest
to get over it.
"We kept our guards out all night, and on the second
da}^ we knew the Indians had broken up so far as this point
Avas concerned, as we could see them in small parties working
down the plain to the Chelan and Columbia Rivers. I think
it was on the third day after the battle that a party of our
men went up on the west side, well armed and with tools, to
bury the dead. They crossed the river at the north end of
the canyon, entered it, met with no resistance and came to
our unfortunate dead comrades. The Indians had stripped
them of everything and mutilated their bodies. They were
buried the best that could be done under the circumstances."
206 THURSTON COUNTY
D. R. BIGELOW
The name of D. R. Bigelow has held a prominent and
honored place among' Thurston Coniinty Pioneers since the
year 1851, when he first arrived in Olympia, having, like his;
contemporaries, made the trip from his boyhood's home in
Wisconsin in an ox wagon.
He was a graduate of a law school and upon his ar-
riving here hung out his shingle, meeting with such success
that he soon had a considerable clientage.
When Washington Territory was set apart from Oregon,
the young man was sent to Salem to codify the laws for the
new Territory. Mr. Bigelow was a member of the first Terri-
torial Legislature, and enjoyed the distinction of having de-
livered the first Fourth of July oration ever made in Wash-
ington. These exercises were held in the first school house
in Olympia. which was built on the hill on the block of land
now bounded by Fifth, Sixth, Washington and Franklin
Streets. The school house was crushed down the following
winter during a heavy fall of snow.
Mr. Bigelow died in 1905 survived by his widow and seven
children.
JNIrs. Bigelow 's reminiscences of her trip across the plains
and her early experiences on the frontier were interesting
and often thrilling.
That she came from sturdy stock is evidenced by the
bravery of her mother, IMrs. William White, who, with her five
children, among them being Mrs. BigeloAv, then a young girl
of fourteen years of age, came across the plains to join her
husband, who had come West the previous year, 1850.
Mr. White wrote back to his wife in Wisconsin that if
possible she was to sell the farm and join him in Oregon. This
the plucky woman prepared to do, and after disposing of all
their property, buying a couple of ox teams and such pro-
PIONETETR REMINISCENCES .'207
visions and outfitting as she deemed they would most need in
their new home, proceeded to St. Joe, Missouri.
In speaking of the start along the Oregon Trail, ^Mrs,
Bigelow, said:
"All the men started walking out of St. Joe beside their
teams, with guns over their shoulders and ox whips in their
hands, but before they had gone half the way to Platte Cross-
ing the guns were put back in the wagons and the whips were
almost worn out."
Although this train had many alarms, they were not mo-
lested by the Indians throughout the entire trip. Several
times teams before them and those following after were set
upon by the Indians and the people massacred, and the horses
and oxen driven off, but their train seemed almost to be under
a special protection. I\Iany a time they would see an ox skull
set up alongside the road bearing the grevi'some Avarning, "Be-
ware the Indians."
One day, Mrs. Bigelow relates, they came upon a wagon
stranded in the middle of the road, the mules unhitched, and
on the wagan tongue sat a man crying like a six-year-old child.
Halting her wagon beside him, ]Mrs. Bigelow asked the man
the cause of his woe. He did not reply at once, but a tired,
tearful woman looked out from the covered wagon and
whimpered: "Joe says he won't go another step without a
drink of water." Mrs. White fortunately had a jug of water
in her wagon, and although the liquid was almost hot, she
gave Joe a drink. He seemed to pluck up courage after this
wetting of his thirsty gullet, and from the companionship, and
proceeded on with the train to a camping spot.
When the John Day country was reached, the White
family were delighted to meet the husband and father, who,
with a fresh team, had started to meet his wife and children.
When they arrived at the Columbia River the women and
children, with the wagons, were loaded on bateaus manned by
Kanakas and floated down the river to the Upper Cascades,
fibove The Dalles.
Arriving in Portland the emigrant train disbanded, the
White family making their home there for the following year.
Later the family came to Puget Sound, taking up a donation
chiim on Chambers Prairie.
208 THURSTON COUNTY
The first experience of Mrs. White and her daughter^
upon their arrival at Tiirawater, is well worth relating. When
the family reached that place Mr. White told the women to
take their horses and ride on ahead along the trail till they
reached the home he had prepared for them on the donation
claim, while he would follow at a slower pace with the oxen.
Full of glad anticipation of at last enjoying a real home, IMrs.
White and the young girl set out along the trail. When they
came out to the prairie the,y were surrounded by a band of
probably 100 Spanish cattle. The prairie at that time was
covered with roving bands of these long horned animals. The
horses stood still with fright and the ring of cattle crowded
closer and closer around the terror-stricken women. The
brutes clashed their immense horns, bellowed and pawed up
the earth, always crowding nearer and nearer. When the
women were almost fainting with fright, David Chambers, the
owner of the cattle, hearing the disturbance, came to their
assistance, calmly going among the herd and shooing the beasts
away like so many tame hens.
At the beginning of the Indian war, jMr. White was killed
by the hostile Indians Avhile walking behind a cart, in which
were Mrs. White and her sister, Mrs. Stewart. Each woman
had a little child in her arms. The Indians came out from
the brush and attacked White. He gave the horse a sharp
cut, wdiich started it running towards the White home. This
spared the lives of the women and children. But they killed
Mr. White, after a fearful struggle which he made for his
life. His body was found the next morning, horribly mutilated
by the Indians, who, under the leadership of Yelm Jim, had
taken advantage of the fact that White was unarmed and
alone with the women and the children. It was thought at
the time that had Mr. White stood in a little more fear of the
Indians his life would not have been sacrificed, but he could
not believe that the alarming reports of their treachery and
hostility to the white settlers were founded upon actual fact,
so never carried a gun or other defensive weapon. The death
of Mr. White was one of the tragedies of those trying times.
Mrs. Bigelow, then Miss White, was the first school teacher
in Thurston County, and the first institution of learning w^as
the school she conducted in a small bed room in the Pack-
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PIONEER REMINISCENCES 209
wood residence, on their claim on Xesqually bottom. The
pupils were the children of the Packwoods, the Shasers and
the McAllisters, which were all there were within travelling
distance to the school.
"Teacher" boarded with the Packwoods dnrinj^ the week,
but every Friday evening she rode on horseback to her parents'
home on Chambers Prairie. The curriculum taught was prob-
ably limited to the three "Rs" and there vras absolutely no
school room furnishing or equipment. The children sat around
on benches in the room wherever they chose. For teaching
this school with all its attendant hardships, the young girl
received the munificent sum of $20 a month.
Mrs. Bigelow had many thrilling incidents to relate, which
happened to her during the lonely rides between her school
and parents' home.
In 1854 Miss White was married to the young lawyer,
D. R. Bigelow, the bride and groom taking their wedding
journey on horseback from the White home, to what has been
known as the Bigelow addition for over half a century. The
young couple avoided coming through Olympia, as Mr. Bigelow
had learned that a number of his young men friends had
planned to give the newlj^ weds a rousing reception when they
reached town. The ringleader of the .jolly gang was Jim Hurd,
Bigelow 's most intimate man friend. He had procured the
cannon which figures so prominently in the reminiscences of
all the Pioneers of those days, and which was kept in readiness
to repel Indian attacks. Jim stood on guard with this ancient
cannon loaded to the danger limit, ready to give a rousing
salute when Mr. Bigelow and his bride should appear. By
slipping around by a trail which Bigelow had cut to his home
they escaped the demonstration and the laugh was on the
assembled crowd who waited till dark for the young couple to
appear.
Mr. Bigelow purchased a quarter of the donation claim
which he owned for many years. A donation claim was just
a mile square. The other purchasers of the Caulkins claim
were C. H. Hale and Miles Gallagher. The Young Bigelows'
first married home was, in Mrs. Bigelow 's own words: "A
two-room mansion, built of hand-split lumber with piinehe)n
210' THURSTON COUNTS
floors. A tiny cook stove, six plain chairs, a primitive bed-
stead and table comprised our 'setting out'."
No bridge was there over what is now known as the
Swantowu fill, and the only way to reach the Bigelow home
was by canoe or rowboat from Olympia. Later a pontoon foot-
bridge was strung across the arm of the bay where the Olympia
Theater now stands.
When the Indian war broke out the Bigelows came to
town for safety, making their home in the block house for
several weeks.
One evening, soon after their return to their home, Mrs.
Bigelow was sitting alone in her kitchen, still nervous and
afraid, when she heard a noise in the front room, and on look-
ing around, was almost petrified with fear at the sight of a
big, blanketed Indian's form which filled the doorway. It
proved, however, to be Betty Edgar, a friendly squaw, married
to a white man. She was looking for her halfbreed children
who w^ere late getting home. Mrs. Bigelow told of another
scare she had endured from the Indians. One evening was
seen a large number of Indian canoes coming up the bay.
Each canoe was filled with braves in war dress. The men
hastily assembled for protection and the women, who were too
far away to seek refuge within the block house, prepared to
flee to the woods for hiding.
Mrs. Bigelow had a young baby by this time, and in her
excitement she snatched a carpetbag and began stowing in it
such articles as she thought would be most needed. She
laughingly said, "a heterogeneous lot went into that satchel —
a loaf of bread, some of the baby's things, some of my own
clothing, etc." But before long the men returned with the
reassuring news that the Indians were on a peaceful errand.
It proved to be Pat Kanim and his braves, coming to deliver
up their guns in accordance with the terms of the peace treaty
made between Governor Stevens and this Indian chief.
The Bigelows have alwaj^s been prominently identified
with the Methodist Church, and even when living on Chambers
Prairie, Mrs. Bigelow would ride on horseback the twelve
miles to Olympia to attend divine service.
When she was married to Mr. Bigelow, one of the town
jokes was that the last white girl in the county was married
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
211
the town wit getting in his work on the family name as he
does to this day.
Eight children were born to Mr. and Mrs. Bigelow: Tirzah,
now Mrs. Eoyal; Eva, now Mrs. Bonnev; Ruth, now IMrs.
Wright ; Ellis, Duncan, Ray, George and Margaret. With
the exception of Ellis, who died several years ago, and ]\Irs.
Bonney, who lives in Tacoma, all the children live in Olympia
and immediate vicinity.
The Bigelow name has always been honored and respected
and in the stirring days of his prime D. R. Bigelow was one
of the prominent men of the Northwest, and the sons and
daughters have been a credit to their parents.
212 THURSTON COUNTY
GEORGE W. MILLS
There is none more to be honored among Thurston County
pioneers than Mr. George W. Slills. who for the past fifty
odd years has made his home in Tnmwater, South Union,
{ind later, in his declining years, in Olympia. Mr. Mills was
a native of Illinois, having first seen the light of day in that
State in 1833. Here he grew to young manhood, and when
little more than a boy married Isabel Fleming, two years his
junior. In Mr. Mills' own words. "We were but children
when we started out in our married life." A few years after
their marriage, ^Ir. and Mrs. Mills went to the then Territory
of Missouri, but had hardly settled there before the Civil War
was declared. The young man organized Company G, 11th
Missouri cavalry, and was elected second lieutenant by his
company. Mr. Mills was very modest about his military career,
but from other sources comes the story of a dashing bravery
when in active service which may Avell be a source of pride
to his sons and daughters. The principal engagement he took
part in was the Kirksville charge. In this battle there were
many killed and- wounded, and while Mr. Mills was recounting
his story of the engagement, something of the fire and spirit
of his youthful days flamed in his e.yes and animated his
form.
Owing to illness Mr. Mills was obliged to resign from the
company before the completion of the war. Among the clearest
recollections Mr. Mills was enabled to relate, was listening to
one of the now historic debates between Abraham Lincoln and
Stephen A. Douglass. His word picture of the appearance of
these famous characters was clearcut and vivid. Mr. Mills had
a personal acquaintance with Lincoln, and loved to tell about
what an "ugly, raw-boned figure of a man the rail-splitter
really was," although with a certain majesty and dignity which
impressed the young man even in those days.
As the war had brought bitter hard times to ^Missouri and
GKORGE W. MILLS AND WIFK
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 213
the cry of gold to be had for the picking up came from Cali-
fornia, the young couple decided to go to the gold fields and
gather their share. There were several children by this time,
but they were all hardy and strong, and their parents full
of hope and confidence. Fitting up a light spring wagon for
the family to ride in and with an ox team to haul the provisions
•and the very few household furnishings that were deemed
absolutely necessary, the start was made for the land of
promise.
When the upper crossing on the Platte River, on the old
Oregon Trail, was reached, they were halted by a company
of soldiers stationed there to protect the emigrants from the
Indians, who were on the warpath, and had taken several
trains of emigrants along the road, killing the people and
burning the Avagons. As small trains of wagons rolled up
they were detained by the military officers until a sufficient
number should have congregated to form a strong enough
company to resist an ordinary attack from the bands of In-
dians who roved at will over the plains. As the emigrants
arrived, "Oregon, Oregon," was the cry. No one except the
jMills family seemed to want to go to California. ]Mr. Mills,
after consulting the officers of the company, was advised to
join these Oregon-bound emigrants and go with them into
that country. It was pointed out to him that all places in
the West were about alike in advantages, but if, after reach-
ing Oregon, he did not wish to remain there, he could then
proceed on down to California. There seemed to be no alter-
native, so the young couple joined the Oregon-ward march.
By this time enough emigrants had arrived at the crossing
to make a train of sixty wagons and three buggies. Owing
to Mr. Mills' military training and his commanding person-
ality, he was unanimously elected captain of the train, or mili-
tary director. Eegular drills were held to teach the men how
to corrall the wagons and prepare to withstand an attack,
should the Indians make their appearance. Five and a half
weary months of travelling followed, with the usual story of
bitter hardships endured with uncomplaining fortitude by these
sturdy men and women. Many and harrowing were the ex-
periences undergone, and the fear of Indian assault was ever
present. This fear was founded upon several terril)h' re-
214 THURSTON COUNTY
minders of the possible fata of the adventurers. Two or three
times the train was halted to give the men time to inter the
I'emains of victims of the Indians' wanton massacre.
One day, ]\Ir. ]\[ills related, they came upon what had
evidently been the scene of a battle. The remains of a
burned wagon was in the road, with what had been its contents;
scattered over the plain. A few feet from the side of the
road was a hastily-formed mound of loose dirt and sod. Be-
tween two clods of earth, which were not closely packed down,
streamed the long tresses of a woman's hair. The locks were
of a beautiful brown color and of great abundance. From
the size and shape of the mound it was evident that there
were two forms under the earth, and the most pathetic sight
of all, on top of the rude grave, curled up as though asleep,
was the form of a tiny spaniel. There was no inscription or
sign of any kind to tell who were here buried, but the gen-
eral conjecture was that here were the remains of a husband
p.nd wife, who had been murdered by the Indians, their com-
panions only taking time to throw a little earth over their
forms before fleeing for their own lives. The little dog was
probably the pet of the dead, and instinctively knew that his
friends were sleeping there, so had stayed by them until death
came from starvation.
When Oregon was finally reached and the emigrant train
disbanded, the Mills family settled in Yamhill County, where
!Mr. ]\Iills went to farming. Here, the following winter, was
born their son, George G. Mills.
The next spring, encouraged by letters from a former
neighbor, who had come to Puget Sound the previous year,
they decided to come on to this county. Packing the wife
and children into a wagon drawn by a span of mules, they
started for the Sound, arriving in 1865.
When they reached Tumwater and Mrs. Mills beheld the
salt water before her, with the great forest on all sides, she
said: "Well, Pa, this is the jumping off place. We haven't
the money to go back; we can go no further, so we've just got
to stay here." J^nd stay they did.
For the first three and a half years in the new home Mr.
Mills was head sawj^er at Ward's mill, at the upper Tumwater
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 215
Falls. At about this time Jesse T., the youngest child of Mr.
and Mrs. ]Mills, was born.
A few 3-ears later the couple bought forty acres of land
at South Union, six miles from Tumwater. ^ilr. jMills said this
land was only bought after earnest consideration, for they
vrell knew that the country Avas developing so rapidly that if
they went further back in the wilderness and took up a home-
stead of good soil, such as was to be had for the asking at
that time, they would in the long run be better off financially,
but Mrs. Mills plead: "Let's give the children a chance.
We owe it to them not to get away from schooling advan-
tages." Even then there was a fairly good rustic school at
South Union, and as the children, one by one, acquired the
knowledge taught there, they were sent into Olympia to get
further educational advantages. Mary, George and Jesse were
graduates of the Olympia Collegiate Institute.
When the land at South Union was first bought it was
covered with the forest primeval. Mr. IMills' first work was to
cut down big trees enough to clear a building site for his
house. In course of time, and through the heart-breaking labor
which the development of wild forest land calls for, the farm
was gradually cleared, a good nine-room house erected, and
the Mills place at South Union became one of the most vain
able farms in the county.
In the year 1882 "Sir. IMills was made industrial instructor
at the Indian school at Chehalis, teaching the Indian boys the
7'udiments of several trades. Mrs. Mills accompanied her
husband with such of her children as were not attending
school in Olympia. Among the pupils in the school was Jesse
IMills, a ring-leader in all the sports, and undoubtedly nuich
of the mischief, perpetrated by the dusky lads. As he was
constantly associated with the Indians, and they were prac-
tically his only playmates, the youngster readily acquired ti
proficient knowledge of not only in the Chinook jargon, but
the Indian language as well. Consequentl3% when an Indian
parent would come to enquire regarding the progress and
welfare of their offspring, Jesse Avas frequently called m n'<
interpreter.
At the end of four and a half years, the IMills family re-
turned to their farm at South Uu'on, but had onl\- been there
216 THURSTON COUNTY
a few weeks, when the Indian agent plead with JMr. IMills to
take charge of the Indian school at Skykomish. This ser-
vice lasted eighteen months, when Mr. Mills was relieved and
Hgain took up his residence on the farm.
At the time of Mr. iMills' arrival in Turawater, that set-
tlement was more of a town than 01.ympia, and there was
only a muddy trail connecting the two towns. From where
Masonic Temple now stands, in Olympia, to Tumwater Falls,
there was the untouched forest, and on about the spot where
the George Israel home is now built was an Indian village the
inmates of which hunted big game in the immediate neigh-
borhood.
Mr. Mills tells that many a night after his day's work in
the saw mill, he and Mrs. Mills would take a lantern and
flounder along the trail to Olympia, to trade out his pay
checks at the Percival store. There was very little ready
money in circulation and the cost of all commodities was
very high, flour selling for $2 a sack of forty-nine pounds,
or $50 a barrel, with sugar, butter, coffee, bacon and other
necessaries in proportion. As everything was brought around
the Horn in sailing vessels, these prices were probably not
excessive, all things considered.
"Well, we had jolly times in those days," said Mr. Mills.
"We were like one family. If one was in trouble it was the
concern of all. We shared in each others' joys and sympa-
thized in each others' sorrows.
"Ovir principal amusements were dancing in the winter
and picnics in the summer. Then a dance Avas a dance. Be-
ginning early in the evening and lasting all night, till morn-
ing brought light enough to see the trails leading to our
homes. And those good old dances — Old Dan Tucker, basket
quadrille. Cheater's swing, polkas, mazurkas, firemens' quad-
rille — where are they now? I never heard the word tango
nor saw a meditation waltz in my day, but think we had just
as much fun at our gatherings as they do now — maybe more.
"Of all the men with whom I was associated in a business
way when I first came to the country. I can think of but five
who are still living — Eobert Frost, John Murphy, Gus Rosen-
thal, Tom Prather and P. D. Moore."
Mr. Mills tells with reminiscent glee of one of the pranks
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 217
of his younger days. In 1863 political sentiment betAveen the
Whig party and the Democratic party was very decided, and
party spirit very bitter. The election of a Territorial Delegate
to Congress was imminent. Alvin Flanders of Vanconver —
Whig — was running against Francis Clark — Democrat^ — of Ta-
c'oma. When the news of Flanders' election reached us. Turn-
water went wild. Speedily congregating, the Republicans se-
cured a number of disused saws from the mill. By striking
these with hammers and iron bars a noise horrible enough to
wake the dead resulted. Tin cans and horse fiddles added their
notes to the horrid din. After parading through the blocks of
Tumwater streets, it was then for Olympia. Down by Crosby's
mill went the jolly boys, along the trail to the bluff above Tum-
water. Here was peacefully grazing the Biles' family cow.
Her big brass bell was soon added to the orchestra's force.
When the noisy procession was about half way to Olympia
they met two foppishly dressed young young men riding on
livery horses. They were stopped and their political convic-
tions demanded. As they did not reply, but seemed frightened
at the demonstrations, they were allowed to proceed on their
way after the enthusiasts had given them three rousing groans
and some mighty uncomplimentary remarks as a parting.
When Olympia Avas reached the procession was SAvelled liy
the faithful of that burg. As they paraded up and doAvn the
streets a stop was made before every place of business as well
as every dwelling house. In those days there Avas no side step-
ping, or hiding one's political affiliations, and every man had
to stand squarely on his party's platform. Consequently it Avas
pretty well knoAvn just how each and every man had voted. So
as the parade passed the house of one of the faithful a stop
would be called and three rousing cheers given for the Whig,
but Avhen a Democrats' habitat Avas reached the inmates Avere
greeted Avith three fearful groans.
When the toAvn had been properly greeted tlie Avild gang
started back for Tunnvater. They stopped on the corner of
AA'hat is now Fifteenth and Main Streets to inform Colonel
Cock of the result of the election.
Cock had just returned from a trip east of the mountains,
where he had been buying cattle. He had not alighted fi'oin
his horse Avhcn the boys came wp. lie Avas a very excitabh' man.
218 THURSTON COUNTY
and when it was told him that the Whigs had won out he simply
went wild. Jumping from his horse in the middle of the road
he threw his hat down and stamped it into the mud.
Just as his frenzy was at its height, the same couple of
fops who had been met a few hours previously came riding up.
One of them sprang from the horse and rushed into Cock's arms.
A closer inspection showed the astonished men that the sup-
posed dudes were I\Irs. Cock and ]\Irs. Rice Tilley. The two
young women had thought it would be a lark to dress up in
men's clothes and ride out to meet Mr. Cock. They took the
wrong road, however, and missed him, and were returning
home. Explanations and apologies were in order.
"My wife died in 1907," proceeded Mr. Mills, ''after we
had lived together 54 years, and if ever a man lost a faithful,
loving companion I did when she was laid away. She was a
good wife and devoted mother. I miss her every day of my
life and one of my few pleasures is going to her last resting
place and looking at the spot I shall occupy by her side. I
have finished my work and only wait the last summons. I am
proud of my children, none of whom have ever caused me
humiliation or shame. They are all honorable men and Avomen,
respected in the community where they reside."
The children born to ]\Ir. and Mrs. Mills were : Sarah.
afterM^ards Sirs. Sales, of Seattle ; Kate, Mrs. Reynolds of Olym-
pia; James and John, still of Tumwater; Mary. I\Irs. Hunting-
ton, of The Dalles, Oregon ; Lora, afterwards Mrs. Greene of
this city ; Fannie, Mrs. IMeyers, now living in Oakville ; and
George and Jesse, of Olympia. Mrs. Reynolds and Mrs. Greene
are no longer living.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 21U
W. O. THOMPSON
One of the most remarkable examples of the sturdy-
Pioneer, is W. O. Thompson, who, at the ripe age of 90, still
steps forth briskly, with eyes bright and quick and with a keen
intelligence relates his experiences in crossing the Oregon Trail
in 1850 and his adventures after reaching Thurston County,
with a clearness and conciseness which was a delight. In
"Black Lake" Thompson's own words:
"I was born in Blairsville, Pennsylvania, in 182-1, being
of Scotch descent on my father's side. My mother belonged
to the aristocratic family — the Culbertsons. My people were
possessed of considerable of this world's means and sent me
to a private school taught by a Catholic priest, who was
refused orders on account of dissipated habits. One day he
became angry with me, and struck me, first on one side of
my head and then the other, with the result I have had im-
paired hearing ever since. Later I was sent to the school
taught by a Scotch Presbyterian minister, who was in the habit
of maintaining discipline by the use of a cat-o-nine-tails.
"Soon after this the first public, or state school, was
started, presided over by a college-bred teacher, and my edu-
cation progressed satisfactorily.
"When I was ten years old, I won a prize for my penman-
ship, much to my delight. Having reached the age of fourteen
and my family having met financial reverses, I decided to
run away from home and find employment on a farm.- Later
I worked my way to Cincinnati, where I found work in a
sash and blind factory. Here I boarded with a Mr. T. B.
Mason, a musician, who urged me to allow him to train my
voice so I could sing with the church choir. I had always
loved music, although my sister always made fun of my voice
and would not allow me to join in the music at home. Mr.
Mason tested my voice and found it a baritone, so I was not
allowed to sing in the choir.
220 THURSTON COUNTY
"At this time I also greatly enjoyed dancing.
"When about 24 years of age I found myself a chronic
invalid, with weak lungs, dyspepsia and rheumatism. A
doctor told me to try roughing it as the only possible means
of restoring my health. I secured work at once as a deck
hand on a Mississippi River boat and found my health began to
improve.
"The next few years were full of wandering, even thought
of enlisting to go to the Mexican war, but a visit to a camp of
volunteers so disgusted me that I abandoned the intention.
"In 1850 I heard of a Mr. E. S. Bonsell, who was about
to start West over the Oregon Trail, and wanted a driver for
one of his trains, which position I secured.
' ' Our train consisted of nine wagons and we started across
the prairies from Fort LeavenAvorth, on the Caw River, early
in the Spring. We struggled through deep woods, waded
brooks, ferried our wagons over rivers, whenever we were for-
tunate enough to find boats, making the cattle swim.
"We had just crossed the little Blue River and were
travelling over the bluffs down into the Platte valley, when
suddenly our train ran into a band of about 150 Indians,
painted faces, scanty clothing, and carrying Mexican spears.
I made frantic signs for them to separate and let our train
pass through, which they did, but soon surrounded our little
band. I at once planned for a council to be held under a big
tree, close at hand, they to send their chief, and we, our leader.
While arranging this I had the drivers form the wagons in a
square, with the tongues ovitside. Into the square thus formed,
we put the women and children.
"In the excitement, one of the wagons was left out of this
square and the Indians began crowding around it. Elbowing
my way through, I found that ]\Iiss Nancy Morton, a beautiful
young girl of our party, was the object of great admiration
on the part of the chief and his braves. The chief made signs
that he wanted to buy Nancy for his wife, and that if we
would not sell her he would take her by force. I walked up
to the girl, placed my hand on her shoulder and made signs
that she belonged to me. Telling her to follow me, we plunged
into our extemporized fort. I tell you, Nancy was a badly
frightened girl.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 221
"At the council the chief told us they were friendly to the
white but were out after their enemies, the Pawnees. All they
wanted from us was meat. Uncle Johnnie had a l)eef killed,
which in a short time they had eaten raw. I assured them
that many Boston men were coming and a party had ridden
upon a bluff to look back over the road. Fortunately, there
was a dust arising from another train of emigrants, so they
rode on, but not before another one of our cows had been
killed by one of the war party.
"The plan of work which was invariably carried on by
the emigrants each day was : In the early morning the sentinel
on duty roused the camp, and very soon every tent and wagon
is pouring forth its night tenants, and slowly kindling smokes
begin to rise and float away in the morning air. The men
start out to round up the cattle and soon the well-trained
cattle move toward the camp. By seven o'clock, breakfast
must be eaten, the wagon loaded and the teams yoked, all
realizing that if they are not ready they will be obliged to fall
behind into the dusty rear for the day. One man goes ahead
to select a nooning place, where grass and water must be
found, if possible. The teams are not unyoked at noon but
simply turned loose from the wagon, and then the noon meal
is eaten. At one o'clock the march is resumed till night, Avhen
again everyone is busy building fires, preparing supper, pitch-
ing tents and making ready for the night. The watches begin
at eight o'clock and end at four o'clock.
"I am asked if we had happy times around the camp fire
at night. I answer 'no.' We were too tired and worn after
the day's weary march. What we wanted was sleep.
"One day we saw a man sitting alone besides the trail.
He gave the Masonic sign of distress, and ]\Ir. Bonsell at once
invited him to join our party. His name was O'Hare, but we
never knew the reason of his being left besides the roadside.
"Another friend I made on this trip was Wm. Sherwood,
disinherited son of a rich Englishman, who had chosen a fron-
tier life in preference to one of luxury in England. He was
very musical and taught me 'The ^Mistletoe Bough,' and 'Bon-
nie Sweet Bessie.' At this time I had a little trouble with
IMr. Bonsell and left his employ, although later, when we were
all in Olympia, INIrs. Bonsell treated me like a son. I then
222 THURSTON COUNTY
secured a position of driver of one of Uncle Johnnie Slocum's
^vagons, a position which suited me exactly, for I was assigned
to drive the wagon in which rode that charming girl INIiss
Nancy Slocum, and her young cousin, Ruby Slocum.
"A gruesome sight, when we reached Fort Laramie, was
an Indian grave yard. At a distance they looked like scaffolds,
\vhile on the ground white buffalo skulls were arranged in a
5ircle, whether as a decoration or some mystic sign, I never
knew.
''We were now in the country of the hostile Indian and
we men had to keep watch with great vigilance. We were
fortunate in not losing a single member of our party by death
during the long journey, but we passed by many freshly-made
graves, the sight of which was very depressing to our tired
little band.
"Although the scenery became very beautiful. I felt as
if I enjoyed a good slice of corn bread and bacon more than
all the beauties around us.
"Uncle Johnnie Slocum proved to be a hard task master
and one morning he most unjustly attacked me with an ox
yoke. I drew a knife to defend myself. Of course, he dis-
charged me on the spot, but sold me supplies enough to last me
the rest of the trip. I paid him well for them, however.
"My supplies were piled out beside the road, and the train
moved on, leaving me sitting alone beside the Oregon trail,
but another party came along and picked me up the same day.
"When near Fort Hall we had our first experience with
Indians stampeding our cattle. It was one of their favorite
tricks to give the emigrants a big scare. They came down
the hillside with painted faces, feathers flying, and uttering
most terrible war whoops while pounding on their skin drums.
Our cattle ran away, scattering people and baggage in all
directions. Fortunately no one was hurt, but some of the
wagons were broken, so we had to go back to the fort to pick
up scraps of iron to mend them with.
"Mr. Landers, one of our party, now became very ill and
we had to drive very slowly. Our cattle were almost starving
and when we reached Salmon Falls, on Snake River, we were
obliged to make the most dangerous crossing on the trip, so
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 223
we could reach the grassy meadovrs, which we could see in
the distance.
"Fort Boise Avas another historic spot. It was huilt in
1834, but the only object of interest I can recall was the thous-
ands of jack rabbits running about in every direction.
"As we descended the Blue Mountains, the view -was sur-
passingly grand. Before us lay the great valley of the Co-
lumbia, ninety' miles away rose the loft}^ ranges of the Cas-
cade Mountains, wath the towering peaks of Mt. Hood, Mt
Rainier and Mt. Adams, which have become so familiar to
me during my sixty years of life in the Northw^est. At The
Dalles I secured employment on a large rowboat, Avhich was
carrying passengers to the Cascades. I made several trips up
and down the Columbia River and then, having some money,
decided to go on to Portland. So I joined a party of young
men who were to drive their fathers' cattle to that settlement.
One of the youngsters was Brad Davis' brother. On this trip
1 became so desperately ill that I was obliged to lie down by
the roadside and let the rest go on.
"An Indian came riding by on a pony and I oiifered him
every cent I possessed if he would sell the pony, but not till
I had added every article of clothing I could spare from my
person did he consent to the bargain. I rode the pony into
Vancouver, and there the horse was claimed by a man, who
said it had been stolen from him. By the laws of Oregon I
had to give the horse up and w^as to receive one-half the cost
of the animal. The man promised to pay, but to this good day
is still owing me that money.
"I determined not to go into Portland dressed in my
shabby clothes, so I remained in Vancouver, digging potatoes
for $2 a day till I had earned forty big Mexican dollars. I
then bought a suit of clothes and went on to Portland.
"The settlement of Portland in '52 was a big mud hole;
no sidewalks, few w^agon roads, and often one w^ould see a
wagon mired to the hub in the sticky mud. I spent two or
three days working in the Abrams mill and one of the men
employed there was young William Billings, afterwards for
many years Sheriff of Thurston County. One day anothet'
man and myself were set at work cutting down one of the
biggest trees I had ever seen. It was in the middle of one ol*
224 THURSTON COUNTY
the main streets. I never worked harder in my life, but it
took us the whole day to cut down that tree. We Avere paid
oft: and discharged that first night.
"In company with ]Mr. O'Hare and Mr. Sherwood, I then
started for Puget Sound. We built a flat-bottomed boat and
poled down the Columbia to tlie Cowl'tz River. We stopped
at 'Hard Bread's' hotel. It was run by a man who fed his
customers hard tack three times a day.
"Reaching Cowlitz Landing, we abandoned our boat and
tramped the remaining fifty miles to the Sound. The trail,
passed near where Chehalis now stands. We were entertained
by George Bush, who had squatted on a claim seven miles from
Olympia in 1845. He had an abundance of farm produce and
was exceedingly generous to all emigrants. We then walked
to Tumwater, where an Indian agreed to paddle us to Olympia,
where we arrived the winter of 1852.
"I had then completed a journey over the Oregon trail,
which was about 2,000 miles, beginning at Gardiner. Kansas,
and ending at Olympia, Washington. I had passed through
the country now called Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, Idaho,
Oregon and Washington, and when I reached the shores of
Puget Sound, I felt this country to be the El Dorado of my
dreams and I have been contented to live here ever since.
"I do not remember that there was a white woman in
Olympia when I first arrived, but there were two living in
Newmarket — Tumwater — Mrs. Crosby and Mrs. Simmons. It
seemed a forlorn place and I never was so homesick in my life.
I went back to Mr. Bush, but he laughed at me and set me
to work making some sash and door frames for a new house
he w^as about to build. I stayed with Mr. Bush two or three
months. We sometimes rode over to Black Lake to go in
swimming. Mr. Bush made me presents of several articles
which could not be bought at that time — a whip saw, etc.
"I wanted to get a claim on Bush Prairie, but the good
land was all taken. There w^as plenty of land to be had for
the taking around Olympia, but the timber was so thick that I
was afraid of it. It did not seem as if a man would live long
enough to ever see a garden grow, so I heard of some good
prairie land out at Black Lake. I had been much pleased with
That lake, it was so picturesque and looked, to me. like the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 225
bhape of a violin nestled clown in the green; the slender place
in the middle, about sixty rods wide, seemed as beautiful to
me as a lady's picture.
■'I found a prairie one-half mile long and eighty to 100
rods wide, bordered with oak trees and a little fringe of fir
around the lake. A beautiful little trout stream ran across
one end of the prairie and into the lake. There were smelt in
ihe creek at the last of the rainy season. Salmon would come up
the creek to spawn and often, when I would go down to get
a bucket of water, I would knock a salmon on the head with
my ax, for my dinner. There were also mountain trout in the
stream and the lake was full of white suckers. The Indians
would come with a sieve and take a wagon-load of suckers
away at a time.
''I selected a site for my cabin and went to Dr. Tolmie's
to get my hoe, blankets and frying pan.
"One day I was returning from a trip to the Hudson Bay
trading post, near Steilacoom. The trail crossed the Nesqually,
near McAllister Creek, and some Indians were living there.
They refused to ferry me across, although I asked them to
do so in English, Chinook and sign languages, and oifered
them fifty cents, while the usual price was but twenty-five
cents, but they paid no attention to me. A young Tyee Indian
was lying on the ground. I shook him by the hair of his head
and commanded him to ferry me across the river, which he
then did. The Indians then went up to McAllister and wanted
to know if I was a military officer or big chief, that I had
dared to whip their Tyee. They must have been disgusted
when McAllister told them that I was onl}' a cultus Boston
man.
"I cut out the trail between Bush Prairie and Black Lake
and made a scow to ferry people and cattle across the lake
from the Olympia trail, for the convenience of settlers who
were going to Miami Prairie, Gate City and Grand Mound."
226 THURSTON COUNTY
DR. NATHANIEL OSTRANDER
"He was ever strong for the right," are the words that
come most readily to the compiler's pencil when an attempt
Avas made to draw a pen picture of that veteran war horse
in the medical profession. Dr. Nathaniel Ostrander.
For many years, while living on his homestead on the
Cowlitz River, he was the only doctor to minister to the distress
of the people for many miles. His daughters can still re-
member their father hurrying out, sometimes in the dead of
night, saddling his faithful nag, filling his saddle bags with
drugs, medicines, and frequently, surgical instruments,
and starting on a trip of perhaps twenty or even fifty miles,
in response to a summons for medical aid. Many of the men
and women today living in Cowlitz County, with heads
white with the hoar of age, were ushered into this world by the
genial doctor, w^hose proud boast it was that no mother died
while under his care when professional skill was possible to
save the lives of her and her baby. Brusk, sometimes gruff
in his manners, all who best knew this grand old man, knew
his heart was of pure gold, his moral life beyond reproach
and his family relations loving and pure, a staunch friend,
loyal to his political and fraternal affiliations. Dr. Ostrander 's
memory is still fondly cherished by his former friends and he
is mourned by his daughters to this late day.
A native of New York, Nathaniel Ostrander grew to man-
hood in that state, received his medical education, and iu
1836 was united in marriage to Miss Eliza Jane Yantis, of
Lexington, Kentucky. After marriage, the Ostranders lived
in Saline County, ^Missouri, but in 1852 decided to join an ox
train and came West, as man^' from their neighborhood were
contemplating such a move.
The emigrants suffered even more than the customary
hardships and terrors attendant upon the trip at that period.
Weeks before the train arrived at The Dalles, black measles
o
Ui
H
>
O
W
?^
o
>
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 227
broke out among the emigrants and many deaths ensued. The
services of the Doctor were in constant demand, and for two
or three weeks there was but little rest or sleep for him. When
Snake Kiver was reached, in Idaho, one of the Ostrander
children, Susan Charlotte, died, and was buried in a lonely
grave beside this river. Here, too, Mrs. Ostrander gave birth
to a girl baby. At the time of the baby's arrival the mother
and her four daughters were deathly sick with the measles
and for a time the outcome looked very doubtful.
Arriving at The Dalles, the Ostrander family took boats
for the voyage down the Columbia to Portland. Here a short
stop was made, but the children were still weak from the ex-
periences on the plains, and malaria was so prevalent, that
Dr. Ostrander decided to go on up to the Cowlitz country and
take up a homestead.
The Doctor and his brave wife at once set to work to carve
a home from the wilderness and succeeded so well that Vv'ithin
a few years their homestead became the finest and most valu-
able in that section. Owing to a native force of character
and natural ability, Dr. Ostrander soon became a leader in
every enterprise among the pioneers. He was the first Probate
Judge of Cowlitz County, having been appointed by Governor
I. I. Stevens, soon after the organization of Washington Ter-
ritory. Always a loyal Democrat, he was elected to the Ter-
ritorial Legislature for several terms. Dr. Ostrander was a
prominent member of the Odd Fellows, and took a keen in-
terest in this fraternal organization to the day of his death.
The town and river of Ostrander, in Cowlitz County, are named
in honor of the Doctor.
In ]872 the Ostranders decided to remove to Tumwater.
Here the doctor opened a drug store in connection with the
practise of his profession, and here the family lived for the
ensuing fifteen years, the children in the meantime, growing
up and receiving their education in the schools of that place.
In 1887 the family selected Olympia as their home, and
the Doctor built the large house on the block bounded by
Franklin and Adams, Eighth and Ninth streets, which became
the Ostrander home the remaining days of Doctor and ]Mi's.
Ostrander.
Mrs. Ostraiulcr was the first to go. passing from this life
228 THURSTON COUNTY
on February 22. 1899, after a well spent life of 68 years. A
faithful wife, loving mother, consistent and ardent Christian
and true friend, all who knew her realized that a good woman
was gone with her passing.
Dr. "Nat," as he Avas lovingly called by his familiars,
joined his wife in the better land on February 7, 1902.
Ten daughters and one son were born to Dr. and Mrs.
Ostrander : Priscilla Catherine, now Mrs. Montague, of Forest
Grove, Oregon, but whose first husband was James Redpath,
and whose son is Dr. N. J. Redpath of Olympia ; J\Iary Anne,
now ]Mrs. Thomas Roe, of Forest Grove, Oregon ; Susan Char-
Totte, the little girl who died and was buried on the plains;
Sarah Teresa, widow of Charles Catlin, a pioneer of Cowlitz
County, and whom the town of Catlin is named after. Mrs.
Catlin now makes her home in Portland, Oregon. iMargaret
Jane, now Mrs. M. 'Conner, of Olympia; Maria Evelyn, who
later became Mrs. W. W. Work of Olympia. but who died in
1888; Isabella May, afterwards Mrs. E. E. Eastman, of Olym-
pia ; John Yantis, who became an Alaska capitalist, but who
died in Olympia in the Spring of 1914; Florence Eliza, after-
wards Mrs. Walter Crosby, of Olympia; Fannie Lee. after-
wards Mrs. C. ]M. Moore, now of Oakland, California, and
Minnie Augusta, who died in infancy.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 229
THE JAMES FAMILY
Samuel James and his wife, Anna Maria, with their family
of eight sturdy sons and daughters, were the original settlers
on Grand Mound Prairie. Of English birth, the couple came
to America with their sons. Samuel, William, Thomas and
John R. The first home in the land of their adoption was
made in Wisconsin, Mr. and ]\Irs. James living in that state
for several years, and here were born to them their daughters,
Eliza and Mary, and their sons, Richard Oregon and Allen.
While the children were still small and the younger ones but
little more than babes, IMr. James became infected with the
western fever. The home place was sold and the purchase
price devoted to outfitting for the perilous journey across the
plains to the new country of Oregon.
The incidents of that journey cannot be preserved in his-
tory, for the father, mother and children who were old enough
to remember the experiences, are all gone, but the surviving
son, John, who is still hale and clear-minded, relates that
there were three yoke of cattle to each wagon and that five
months were passed in steady travelling before the promised
land was reached.
^Milwaukee, Oregon, was the first stopping place of the
adventurers. Here Mr. James rented a farm and put in his
crops. But this vicinity did not satisfy them and they de-
( i(U'(l that Puget Sound was the land of golden opportunities,
so after spending a year at ]\Iilwaukee, ]\Ir. and IMrs. James
decided to pull stakes and away.
The trip was made in the manner customary in those
days, hiring bateaus from the Hudson Bay people, up the
Willamette and Cowlitz Rivers to Cowlitz Landing. The
cattle were driven along the Indian trail paralleling the I'iver.
b,\- the three brothers, Samuel, William and Thomas. When
the CoAvlitz Landing was reaclied. tlu' wagons were unloaded
230 THURSTON COUNTY
from the bateaus, fitted up and loaded with the furnishing-s and
equipment of the James family.
Arriving at Grand IMound in 1852, ]\Ir. James took up a
donation claim of 320 acres on the Chehalis River, built a
cabin home and started to improve what afterAvards became
one of the finest farms in Thurston County, The prairie land
was broken up and put in grain fields. Mr. James was a very
progressive pioneer and among his first work was starting
a ten-acre orchard, the little trees for the planting being
brought with almost incredible difficulties from Oregon. The
land was rich and the farm prospered almost from the be-
ginning. As there were no other settlers on the prairie for a
while, Mr. James had the run of the fine ranges for his cattle
and later a band of sheep, which he possessed. Soon after
locating, he bought a small band of forty sheep from James
McAllister, the Nesqually pioneer. This flock increased to a
band of 500 head and was a source of considerable profit to
the James family.
It was a good three days' journey from the Grand Mound
ranch and return, to Tumwater, with the wagons heavily
loaded with grain to be ground into flour. This town and the
little settlement which had sprung up on the Sound, called
Smithfield — now Olympia, was the nearest market.
Mr. John James, the only surviving son out of the stalwart
band, relates some very interesting experiences of the family
in the troublesome time preceding the Indian war, one of the
incidents, which is here given, showing that the natives were
sometimes responsive to humane treatment.
"It was in berry picking time in the Summer of 1853,"
said Mr. James, "and a considerable band of Indians went into
camp near our place, to gather their annual supply of the wild
berries which grew in great profusion in the vicinity. Soon
after their arrival the chief of the band, several members of
his family, and a number of the tribe, were taken down with
small pox — the scourge of the frontier in those days. Now it
so happened that father, mother and one of my brothers were
fmmune, owing to their having recovered from the dread dis-
ease at an earlier period. Besides being one of the most pro-
gressive men, father was also one of the kindest hearted I
ever knew. Consequently he, with the assistance of mother
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 231
and brother Thomas, nursed the siek Indians, administering
the simple remedies which he had knowledge of, and, undoubt-
edly saved the lives of many.
"When the disease had run its course and all were well
again, the chief and head men called upon father and entered
into a solemn treaty Avith him that all claims to the section
of land on which was the James homestead were forever re-
linquished by the Indians, and should remain in the undis-
turbed possession of the family for all time, as far as the In-
dians were concerned. The chief further made a treaty of
good will that Mr. James and his family would ever be pro-
tected by the Indians in the event of trouble arising between
them and the settlers, who by this time had begun to arrive
in considerable numbers.
"This good-will treaty was all that prevented Grand
I\Iound Prairie from being selected as an Indian reservation
a few years later, when Governor Stevens made the allot-
ments of territory to the natives, instead of Black River."
In the Fall of 1853 a goodly number of emigrants came
into the country, having arrived over the terrible Xatche/5
Pass. With cattle worn out, supplies exhausted, and men and
women fatigued to the limit of human endurance, the fine
ranges, bountiful supply of wood, land easily put under cul-
tivation, springs of delicious water, the prospect was alluring,
so they decided to settle on Grand Mound, and from that time
on there was no lack of good neighbors for the pioneer family.
Among the early settlers of ^\Ir. John James w»s : B. F'.
Yantis and family ; Alexander Yantis and family ; James and
Charles Biles; J. W. Goodell and large family; Holden Judson.
Josephine Axtel, Patterson Luark, Abraham Tilley, Arthur
Sergeant and sons, while on ]\Iiami Prairie early settlers were :
The Bryans, with their sons and daughters, Esther. ]\Iary.
Preston and Edgar; Camby brothers, four in num])er; John
Laws ; the Waddells. with their children, Robert and Susan ;
the Dodge family, consisting of father and mother and children
Robert, Bruce, JMarion and Samuel. Other pioneers of the
neighborhood were Lnwton Case, Wm. ^Mills and family. Henry
232
THURSTON COUNTY
Hale and family, Paron Qninn, Elijah Baker and wife, Olive,
with their boys, James and William; Jacob Croll, S. H. French,
Andrew MeCormack and family ; L. D. Durgan and wife ;
Augustus Gangloff, Thomas and William Cooper, Robert
Barge, and the Northcraft brothers.
The most of these people made their headquarters for
over a year at Fort Henness, during the troublous Indian
outbreak.
James Biles built the first tannery on Scatter Creek, north
of the Columbia River. L. D. Durgan and A. Gangloff started
the first fruit nursery ; John Guynnup, a Mexican war veteran,
started the first brick kiln at Grand Mound, and in 1858 a
I\Ir. Armstrong built the first sawmill on the Chehalis River,
locating a little below the present town of Oakville.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 233
ALBERT A. PHILLIPS
In preseuting a brief sketch of the late Albert A. Phillips,
it becomes a duty, as well as a pleasure, to give prominence
to the well known reputation lie enjoyed for absolute business
integrity. After having been President for twenty years of
the First National Bank, and upon the failure of that institu-
tion being appointed receiver, with the universal consent of
the stockholders, is in itself an eloquent testimonial of the
confidence in and regard for ]\Ir. Phillips by his business
associates.
Albert A. Phillips was born in a small town in Ohio, in
1839, and graduated from the high school of Sandusky, when
eighteen years of age. He then taught school for a few years,
but at the age of 21 bade farewell to his boyhood friends
and home and started AVest over the old Oregon Trail.
An elder brother, E. C. Phillips, had preceded him. and
was located on Whidby Island, where he was conducting a
general merchandise store. The young man clerked in this
store for a year and then, hearing of rich strikes in the Idaho
gold fields, decided to try his fortune there. Here he was
unusually successful, and soon made a considerable stake
from dealing in mining properties. Investing his modest
fortune in Boise City, Idaho, he was, within a few months,
completely stranded by a fire which destroyed the buildings
in which he had invested. He then returned to Whidby Island,
but came later to Olympia, where he was enrolling clerk with
the first session of the territorial legislature. Liking the
capital of the new Territory, ]\Ir. Phillips decided to locate
here, his first employment after the session being that of clerk
in Capt. Percival's store.
"Within a few years he was elected Auditor and Recorder
of Thurston County, and enjoyed the distinction of being
re-elected for seven consecutive two-year terms.
The first State bank in the Tci-rit'irv was fouiidcd ])v
234 THURSTON COUNTY
the late George A. Barnes, and when Mr. Phillips was finally
succeeded as a county officer, in company with Judge Hoyt,
this bank was purchased. The venture was so successful that
the partners, Phillips & Hoyt, started the First National Bank
and Phillips was elected President, continuing in this position
until, owing to the deflation of real estate values, the bank
was forced to close its doors. ]\Ir. Phillips was then appointed
receiver, and how judiciously and wisely he closed up the Af-
fairs of the institution, and how satisfied were the investors
and depositors, is a matter of financial history.
]\Ir. Phillips was elected Mayor of the City of Olj'mpia on
the Republican ticket, was at one time a trustee of the Asylum
for the Insane at Steilaeoom, and was appointed a regent of the
St*te University by Governor Ferry. After closing up the
affairs of the First National, he was elected County Treasurer
for two terms and was then appoiiited Assistant State Bank
Examiner by Governor Meade, which position he was filling
at the time of his death, on August 15, 1910.
Albert E. Phillips was married to Miss Ellen Gillispie in
1869, and brought his bride from AVhidby Island to Olympia
to make their home.
Three children were the result of this union, Gertrude,
afterAvards Mrs. Rankin ; Elizabeth, now ]Mrs. 0. ]\I. ]\Iitchell
of Mt. Claire, New Jersey, and Charles K. Gertrude died
several years ago. Charles lives in Seattle, but claims Olympia
as his home, coming here to vote at election time.
Mrs. Phillips, a native of Wisconsin, came to Whidby
Island with her parents, in 1857 The journey to the West
was via Panama, and was soon after the little railroad was
built across the Isthmus.
Whidby Island at that time Avas considered to be the
garden spot of Washington. A very superior class of people
had settled there, who were enjoying unusual prosperity for
so new a section, consequently Mrs. Phillips' recollections of
the islands are very pleasant, and the reminiscences con-
tributed by that lady are exceedingly interesting.
All travel, of course, was by water, and Indians were
generally hired to convey the settlers to the various points, in
their canoes. For a moderate charge, the natives would take
a party even as far as Seattle. Among Mrs. Phillips' most
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 235
I)leasant memories is a trip to that eit.y, taken in company
with her brother-in-law and sister. The big bucks did the
paddling. A camp was made at night on the beach, and the
trip was comfortable and full of delight to the young people.
Another trip taken at an earlier day, which j\Irs. Phillips
tells about, was not so pleasant. When she was a young girl
about fourteen years of age, in company with her seventeen-
year-old sister, Elizabeth, they started for a day's visit with
friends in Coupeville. An Indian was hired to take them
there in his canoe, the fare being 50 cents for the round trip.
AVhen they were opposite a lonely place on the beach, the
Indian paddled up to the shore. With his paddle in his hand,
springing out of the canoe, he pushed the girls away from
the shore, and, pulling a knife, which to the frightened gk'ls
looked to be two feet long, began to hack his paddle to pieces,
jabbering and grimacing all the while in a perfectly demoniacal
manner. The girls were paralyzed with terror and at a loss
what to do, drifting there alone in a canoe vrithout a paddle
or means of landing. At this time another Indian paddled up
to them and asked them the cause of their trouble. Upon
their telling him, he directed them to look under the mat in
the bottom of their canoe and find another paddle and reach
the shore, which they did. The friendly Indian then went
up to the one who had caused the trouble, and sternly repri-
manded him. and commanded him to get back in the canoe
and take the girls on to Coupeville. Indian No. 1 quieted
down, resumed the journey and made no further disturbance,
then nor on the return trip.
At one time E. C. Philli])s owned a farm on Whidy Island
and had a couple of men and an Indian clearing some land
One of the men hung his coat upon a stump, while he worked.
In the pocket of the coat was $300 in $20 gold pieces. When
the day's work was over, the owner of the coat threw it over
his arm and went to supper. Some time in the evening he
missed his money and, naturally, accused the Indian, who had
been working with him, of taking it. The Siwash strenuously
denied the theft. But there was no mistake. The money had
certainly been in the man's pocket. None but the Indian saw
the coat hanging on the stump. The money was gone. Of
course he took it. Justice was swift and ini])('lu(>iis in tliose
236 THURSTON COUNTY
(hi vs. A posse of "Boston" men soon assembled. Both sides
of the story were told, and without delay the Indian was con-
victed. But a conviction, however satisfying to the loser, did
not rejpay him for his vanished dollars. So the Boston men
look Sir. Indian out, stood him under the forked limb of an
immense tree, slipped a noose in the end of a rope over his
head and began to tighten it, and told the Indian to prepare
to meet his Tenanamus — God. Stoically stood the native,
whose only words had been, "Me no take." It looked for a
while as if the suspect would be counted among the good
Indians within a few moments. But cooler judgment pre-
vailed, and as the Siwash affirmed and reaffirmed his "no
take," it was decided to let him go. The noose was unfastened
and the Indian lost no time in fading away.
Years, to the number of twenty-five, passed on — the incident
was long since forgotten. The farm on which the money dis-
appeared had passed into the hands of a brother of I\Irs.
Phillips, John Gillispie. One day in plowing up some new land
in a freshly cleared field, he caught the glitter of something
])right. Picking up the object, he was amazed to find it to
be a $20 gold piece. Gillispie then remembered the story of
the loss of the $300 years ago, and searched till he found the
entire amount. It had fallen from the man's pocket Avhen
he flung it over his arm. and had lain at the foot of a stump all
these vears.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 237
BENNETT WILLSON JOHNS
The distinction of having been the youngest soldier in
the volunteer company enlisted to defend Seattle in the Indian
war of 1855-56, belongs to the subject of this sketch, Bennett
Willson Johns, who, with his father, brothers and sisters.
arrived in Seattle in 1853. Early in the spring of that year
the elder Johns, Bennett Lewis, with his w^ife, Elizabeth Tuttles
Johns, and their large family of children, started from their
old home in Tennessee, for the West.
When the emigrants reached Soda Springs, in Idaho, the
wife and mother, with her two weeks' old babe, were taken
down with mountain fever, and died after a few^ days' illness.
The eldest daughter, Frances, who had become the wife of
Alexander Barnes in the East, but who, with her husband,
was also among the emigrants, was also stricken with the same
disease and followed her mother within a few days. JMother
and daughter sleep side by side in lonely graves in the
wilderness.
The emigrants resumed their Western march after these
bereavements, sad and discouraged, but with no alternative
but to push onward.
OM'ing to the delays from sickness and fatigue of the
cattle, snow began to fall by the time the train reached the
Cascades, and before many days' travel through the mountains
were accomplished, it became necessary to abandon the wagons
and much of the outfit, and take pack horses with which to
continue their journey. Food became so scarce that a
messenger was dispatched ahead of the weary emigrants with
a prayer for assistance, to the settlers of Seattle. With char-
acteristic Western generosity, the appeal was responded to
and food and comforts sent back along the trail to relieve
the distress of the emigrants. On reaching Puget Sound, the
father took up a donation claim in what is now King County,
23S THURSTON COUNTY
on the DiiAvamish River, nine miles from Seattle, where he
engaged in farming and stock raising.
After the family had lived on the claim tAvo years, the
Indian war broke out and the elder Johns and tAvo sons were
among the first volunteers, and were engaged in the battle of
1856 when the Indians attacked Seattle.
Among B. W. Johns' most vivid remembrances, was one
morning while the family were at breakfast in their home in
the suburbs of the town, where they had moved from the
homestead at the time of the massacre on AVhite River, the
Indians surrounded the house, driving the father and children
into the toAvn. When they returned they found the house had
been ransacked by the Klootchman, and all they considered
of value Avas taken, including the Avinter's supply of flour.
This was a serious matter. The father and boys had raised
the wheat on their OAA^n land, the father soAving in the morn-
ing as much as the boys could dig into the ground and cover
during the rest of the day. Later on this AA'heat Avas harvested
in the primitive way of the time, threshed Avith a flail and
AA'innowed in the wind. Then the precious grain was taken
by Mr. Johns and Mr. John Collins, in a flat bottomed scoav,
to TumAvater, Avhere it AA^as ground into flour.
When the family arrived in Washington — then Oregon —
Mr. Bennett W. Johns AA^as but a mere lad of fourteen, but
even at that age he filled a man's part in the struggle which
every pioneer had to participate in. After remaining Avith his
father on the claim until he Avas tAA^enty years of age, he started
out in life for himself. When the Frazer River gold excite-
ment was claiming many of the pioneers of the infant terri--
tory, Mr. Johns joined the rush and mined with considerable
success on Puget Sound Bar on the Frazer. Later he turned
bis energies to fur trading, with much financial success.
In 1869, tired of a roving life, the young man came to
Olympia, where for fourteen years he Avas engaged in the
saAvmill business with his brother-in-laAv, William H. Mitchell.
In 1876, Mr. Johns purchased the fine farm on Bush
Prairie which, although he sold it in later years, is still knoAvn
as the Johns place. He also acquired considerable other valu-
able property in Thurston County and in the Cit.y of Olympia.
In 1872 Mr. Johns enjoyed his greatest piece of good
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 239
liiek in his successful life — he married Miss i\Iary J. Vertrees.
One daughter, Ruth, was born to the young couple.
]\Ir. B. W. Johns died at the family home in Olympia on
December 27, 1905.
During Mr. Johns' life he was actively associated with
the Independent Order of Odd Fello■^^^, having been Noble
Grand in this fraternal organization, and was also a member
of the auxiliary — the Rebekahs. He was also at one time
]Master Workman of the Ancient Order of United Workmen.
Both I\Ir. B. W. Johns and his wife, IMary Vertrees, have been
connected with the Baptist Church since the days of their
early youth.
iMary Vertrees Johns M^as the daughter of Charles IM. and
Mary J. Vertrees, and was born in Pike County, Illinois.
October 26, 1851. On February 25, 1872, she became the wife
of Bennett Willson Johns, the wedding taking place in
Olympia, at which place the young lady was a new arrival.
At one time Mrs. Johns owned and successfully superin-
tended a book bindery in Olympia. She was also first matron
of Charleston Cottage for young ladies at Ottawa, Kansas,
University in 1892 and 1893. Later Mrs. Johns was assistant
postmaster in Olympia for a term of seven years beginning
April 16, 1898. This lady, while feminine and womanly in the
truest sense of the word, is outspoken in her belief that women
have an equal right with men in framing laws for the govern-
ment and protection of the country, and enjoys the distinction
of having been twice elected a delegate to the Republican
County Convention in the '80s, when women were given the
right to vote, and once elected as degelate to the Territorial
Convention.
Besides her almost life-long affiliation with the Baptist
Church, Mrs. Johns is Past Matron of the Eastern Star, has
been three times president of the Woman's Club of Olympia,
twice Noble Grand of the Order of Rebekahs, a member of
the Ladies' Relief Society and president of the George II.
Thomas Relief Corps.
Mrs. Johns has enjoyed extensive travel, not only through
the United States, but I\Iexico and Canada, and in later years
toured the European countries.
Since the death of her husband ]\Irs. Johns has efficiently
240.
THURSTON COUNTY
inanaged the considerable property left her. The only child
born to Mr. and JMrs. Johns, Ruth V., now Mrs. A. S. Kerfoot,
arrived in their home on December 5, 1874, and now makes
her home in Lemon Grove, California, with her husband and
an interesting family of three boys — Bennett Johns, George
Franklin and Robert Arthur.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 241
DR. A. H. STEELE
Dr. Alden Hatch Steele was an early pioneer of Oregon,
coming to that State in 1849 with the 1st Rifle Regiment, U. S.
A., crossing the plains to Vancouver.
He was born in Oswego, New York, the youngest of three
sons of Orlo Steele and Fanny Abbey. The oldest brother.
Elijah Steele was a prominent lawyer and for many years was
Superior Judge in Siskiyou County, California.
The other brother, William, was a graduate of West Point.
and served in both the Mexican and Civil wars.
Dr. Steele graduated from the Lledical Department of
the University of New York in 1846. At the time he reached
Oregon Territory, Oregon City was the principal town, and he
settled there, marrying Hannah Hooper Blackler of ]\Iarble-
head, Mass., who came to Oregon as a teacher under the pro-
tection of Rev. G. H. Atkinson, a Congregational clergyman,
who had been to the Eastern States asking for volunteers for
this work in the new country.
Dr. Steele had great influence with the Indians and set-
tled many of their disputes. In 1857 he was physician in
charge of the Grand Rounde Indian Reservation and again in
1870 served in the same way the Indians of Nesqually, Che-
halis and Squaxon Island Reservations, then in charge of Col.
Samuel Ross, U. S. A. During the Civil War, Dr. Steele was
post surgeon at Fort Dalles and Fort Stevens. Oregon, and
Fort Steilacoom, Wash. This last named Post was where the
present Insane Asylum is now situated.
In 1869 the tro()j)s at Fort Steilacoom were ordered to
Alaska and Dr. Steele, feeling he had done his share of frontier
work, resigned from the army and took up his professional
work in Olympia, where he built a home at the southeast cor-
ner of Franklin and Tcntli Streets and lived until his death, in
1902.
242 THURSTON COUNTY
During the years spent in Oregon and Washington he
held many places of trust and prominence in public affairs,
and was widely known as a leading physician and surgeon all
through his life. In 1852 Dr. Steele used chloroform in ampu-
tating a limb, the first used in surgery north of San Francisco.
He was mayor of Oregon City three terms and a mem-
ber of the city council eleven years. In Olympia he was an
earnest worker for all public improvements, helping to start
the first Gas & Power Co., director for many years of the First
National Bank, and stockholder in the railroad to Tenino, and
the "Olympia" Hotel, built by the citizens by hard efforts
t«o help keep the capital on the old historic spot. Dr. Steele
was an earnest member of the Episcopal church, and was one
of the committee that sent a request to New York in 1853.
asking for a Bishop for the Northwest. This request was an-
swered by the election of Thomas Feilding Scott, in 1854, as
first Missionary Bishop for the Territory of Oregon, a terri-
tory then extending over the present State of Washington. He
was also a member of the first convocation called by Bishop
Scott, to establish the church in this new field. He was al-
ways a vestryman of St. John's Church, Olympia, and junior
warden and treasurer for twenty years.
Dr. Steele was appointed by Gov. Ferry as Regent of the
University, serving two terms. Also medical examiner of the
territorial penitentiarj^ for six years, medical examiner of the
New York Mutual Life Insurance Company for twenty-five
years, and for several other life insurance companies. He was
an honorary member of both the Oregon and Washington
Medical Societies.
Dr. Steele died at his home in Olympia, June 29th. 1902,
aged 79. He left his wife and one daughter, a son having died
many years before. His daughter, Fanny Orlo, married in
1878 Russell G. O'Brien of Olympia, who came to Washington
in 1870 with Governor Salomon, as Assistant Collector of
Internal Revenue.
He was known as the "Father of the National Guard of
Washington," organizing the first company of the present
militia in Olympia in 1882 and serving as Adjutant General of
the State for twenty-five years. He died in Pasadena. Cali-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
243
fornia, in February, 1914. General and ^Iyh. O'Brien had
three children, a daughter, Florence Blaekler, died in
ISS'S; a son, E. Lloyd, who was a prominent student and
athlete at the State University, where he completed his course
as a Civil Engineer, died Nov. 26, 1912. The youngest daugh-
ter, Helen Steele, married George A. Aetzel, vice president oP
the Olympia Door Company, and resides in Olympia. One
son, Charles Alden, was born in 1912 to I\lr. and llrs. Aetzc;!.
244 THURSTON COUNTY
THOS. M. MACLEAY
Thomas Moore Macleay was born in Willapool, on Lock
Broom, in Ross and Cromarty Shires, Scotland. His family
was one of the oldest and most prominent in that section and
when he was a child his family moved to Richmond, Canada.
In 1861, he went into business in ]\Iontreal and during the Civil
War traveled through the Eastern States, buying -what pro-
duce he could and shipping to his partner. Hearing through
his brother about California and Oregon, he decided to sell
out and go there.
He then become interested in the firm of Corbett & Mac-
leay Co., of Portland, who owned several large vessels and did
an immense business all over the Coast and in the Hawaiian
Islands.
He later visited Puget Sound and decided to cast his lot
in Olympia, where he opened a wholesale and retail grocery,
below Second on ]\Iain street. His stock was so heavy it
caused the floor to give way so he built a new place on Main
street, between Second and Third streets. His large heart was
open to every new comer and he trusted them with goods for
months and always had a warm corner and something to eat
for everyone.
Traveling in those daj^s was very hard and was done most-
ly by row boat and horseback. He always had the good of the
community at heart and was very enterprising. With Capt.
J. G. Parker and Dr. Alden Steele, he built the first steamer,
"The Messenger," that made daily trips between Olympia and
Tacoma and Seattle. It was considered a wild and unheard
of undertaking in those days and was a great event when the
boat was launched and made her trial trip as far as Doffe-
meyers Point,
He married Annie Frost, the youngest sister of Robert
Frost, a pioneer of the fifties, and by whom he had five chil-
MR. AND MRvS. THOMAS MACLEAY
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
245
dren. Their first home was the building where Governor
Stevens opened the first Territorial Legislature, and Avhere
their only son, Laclilau ]Macleay, now a prominent business man
of New York, was born.
Mr. ]\Iacleay died in 1897 and as his old friend, John ]\Iiller
]\Iurphy wrote of him: "His word was as good as a bond, and
his name to an obligation as safe as the paper of the Bank of
England." ]\Irs. Maeleay, as a young girl, was one of a group
of young people who were the life of the whole community.
In the early seventies they organized the Olympia Ama-
teur Dramatic Club, whose members were Billy Neat, Eobert
Frost, Capt. Ballard, (who afterwards founded the town of
Ballard), Joe Chilberg, George Blankenship, Sam Woodruff,
James Ferrj- and Professor Roberts, the ladies being Nettie
Horton, Gyp Shelton, A#a Woodruff, fwho is now Mrs. Oliver
Anderson, the noted authoress), Julia Shelton and Annie
Frost.
They put on these amateur plays in the old Town Hall, the
proceeds going for dift'erent purposes — once to paint the hall
and again to build a house for a family who had been burned
out.
246 THURSTON COUNTY
JUDGE O. B. McFADDEN
A sketch of Thurston County's early history without at
least a mention of Judge 0. B. McFadden and his family
would, indeed, be like a play of Hamlet with Hamlet left out.
Born in Pennsylvania of a sturdy and well-to-do family.
Judge McFadden spent the early years of his life in that state.
There he was married and there his four elder children were
born. In 1853 President Franklin Pierce appointed the young
lawyer, who even then was beginning to attract attention by
his legal attainments and tactful statesmanship, to the posi-
tion of Circuit Judg'e over the newly organized Territory of
Oregon. Judge McFadden made the trip to his new field of
labor by water, crossing the Isthmus and coming on up to San
Francisco, then by boat up the Columbia to Vancouver, which
was then but little more than a trading post established by
the Hudson Bay people. Court was held in the Rogue River
country and the Judge would make his visits from Vancouver
always on horseback, with his legal books and documents
packed in his saddle bags. Soon after the formation of Wash-
ing Territory, and her separation from Oregon, Judge Mc-
Fadden was appointed Chief Justice to succeed Edward Lan-
der, who was the first Judge to enjoy that honor.
The year before his eoming to Olympia, Judge McFadden
had returned to his home in Pennsylvania and yielding to the
entreaties of his wife, who could no longer bear separation
from her husband, brought his family back with him upon his
return to Oregon. Mr. Frank P. McFadden, one of the sons,
relates their experiences during their first few weeks in Van-
couver. The mother and children were filled with dread and
apprehension of the Indians, and before coming West had been
told by their friends of the dire fate which would probably
await them when they reached the wilds of Oregon. One day
the McFadden boys, while playing by the banks of the river.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 247
espied a flotilla of apparently empty canoes and small ])oats
drifting down the Columbia. They rushed to the settlement,
giving the alarm that the Indians were coming. Even some
of the men who hastened to the river's edge to see the cause
of the boys' scare thought they Avere correct, for the long
string of boats were certainly approaching and it was thought
that in the bottom of each canoe was lying a savage buck with
his gun pointed toward them. But when the boats came near
enough for thorough investigation, they were seen to be, in-
deed, empty, and it afterwards proved the craft had been made
a few' miles up the river and were being brought down for
sale among the settlers.
Another scare the I\IeFaddens experienced was one dark
night after they had all retired, the mother and children were
aw^akened by the most terrible yelling and screaming. Sure
now that the Indians had come and were murdering everyone
in Vancouver; they cowered in their beds in the dark wonder-
ing what moment their time would come. Morning broke,
however, and they were surprised to find themselves still alive.
]Making their way to the nearest neighgbors they were relieved
to learn that the horrid sounds had been made bj^ a pack of
coyotes which had fallen upon the carcass of a horse lying in
the brush not far from the McFadden home.
In 1873 Judge JMcFadden was elected a delegate to Con-
gress on the Democratic ticket, defeating Selucius Garfielde
on the Republican ticket. The next two busy years w'ere spent
in Washington, D. C. Judge ]\IcFadden died in Olympia in
1875, shortly after the expiration of his term as delegate. The
]\IcFadden home, on a point of land overlooking th^ Sound,
was for years one of the beauty spots of Olympia, but the
march of progress has developed business establishments in the
neighborhood and detracted from the loveliness of the view
once to be obtained from the windows of what was, in its days,
considered a mansion. In this home for many years after the
death of her husband lived IMrs. JMcFadden, who finally, in
1904, sank to rest. The children of Judge and Mrs. McFadden
are: Mrs. Mary Miller, of Seattle; 0. B. McFadden, Jr., Frank
P. and J. Caf :\reFadden of Olympia, K. X. McFadden of
Seward, Alaska, and Mrs. L. P. Ouelette, of Olympia.
24g THURSTON COUNTY
EDMOND AND CROWELL H. SYLVESTER
The pioneers who are the subjects of this sketch are too
well known, and their pioneer experiences have been so oft
related that the compiler can give but little more than a repeti-
tiui of facts which are already history. Fishermen bold were
these brothers, descended from a long line of fishermen, who
made their home at Deer Isle, Maine, the spirit and love of
danger and adventure was born with them. In 1846, the elder
brother, Edmond, came to Pnget Sound, locating first on a
claim on what later became known as Chambers' Prairie. Syl-
vester's nearest neighbor was Nathan Eaton, the first settler
on this prairie. Sylvester had as partner a man named Smith,
who selected for his claim the half section of ground where
Olympia now stands. There was a mutual agreement that in
the event of the death of either of the partners, the survivor
should own the whole of both claims.
Sylvester and Smith, even then, had faith that a town
Avould be built on the location ; indeed, the partners planned to
lay out a town site themselves. To this new town they planned
to give the name Smithter, combining their names.
In 1848 Smith, who was subject to epilepsy, was found dead
in his boat, in which he was intending to make a trip to attend
the Oregon Legislature, of which he had been elected a mem-
ber. By the agreement Sylvester inherited Smith's claim and
from that time on for many years the town and its develop-
ment became his chief interest in life. He changed the name
of the settlement to Olympia and his generosity in bestowing
tracts of land to the city to be used for public purposes is
well known. The beautiful little park, now known as Capital
Square, but for many years called Sylvester Park, a half block
of land west of the Capitol Building for the location of Olym-
pia's first school house, and the ten acres donated to the State
in Capitol Park on which are located the executive mansion
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 249
and the foundation for the State Capitol ])niidings. are among
his magnificent bequests.
When Edmond had lived in the West about four years he
sent for his brother, Crowel H. Sylvester, to join him. ]\Irs.
Edmond Sylvester was escorted by her brother-in-law in her
journey from the old home to join her husband.
C. H. Sylvester, upon his arrival in the territory, located
upon his claim, not far from South Bay. He was the pioneer
settler in this section and was obliged to cut the trail through
the dense woods to reach his claim.
The first hotel this city could boast of was run by the
Sylvester Brothers, a two-room shack, cloth lined, the wdiole
building being but 16x24 feet in size, with bunks for the ac-
commodation of guests.
Edmund Sylvester was one of the owners of the brig Orbit,
which came here in 1849, with a party of California gold seek-
ers, Capt. W. H. Dunham. This ship was the first owned on
Puget Sound, the forerunner of the vast fleet now plying these
waters.
Edmund Sylvester built his home on the block now facing
the postoffice building on ]\Iain Street and for many years it
was considered the finest home in Y/ashington. And when he
ended this world's activities in the late '80 's. his brother
Crowell Sylvester, continued to live on his valuable farm till
the time of his death in the early jiart of this century.
250 THURSTON COUNTY
GENERAL WILLIAM WINLOCK MILLER
F'rom teaching school in a remote village in Illinois
for a monthly salary of $10 to amassing a million dollar fortune,
is the record of W. W. Miller, Avhose memory is prominent in
the minds of the remaining pioneers of his day.
After receiving his education in Illinois and. with
patient frugality acquiring enough money to defray his ex-
penses to the Far West, the young man arrived in Olympia in
1853, his entire fortune comprising only a few hundred
dollars. With the business sagacity and perspicuity which was
i\Ir. Miller's main characteristic, he at once began to invest in
Olympia property, buying and selling, loaning money to those
less fortunate than himself, his speculations ever attended with
signal success. Mr. Miller, however, is not only to be remem-
In^red as a successful business man, but also a patriot and brave
soldier as well. He was one of the first to enlist in the ranks
of volunteers organized for the defense of the country in the
Indian Avar of 1855-56, rapidly rising from the ranks until he
was finally made Commissary General and staff officer to Gov-
ernor I. I. Stevens, and this executive was emphatic in affirm-
ing that much of the success in quelling the Indian disturb-
ances was due to the able and efficient men who composed hi?
staff.
Mr. Hazard Stevens, in his "Life of Governor Stevens,"
gives the following high praise to General W. W. Miller, as
having imparted "extraordinary efficiency to the quartermas-
ters' and commissary's departments, the most difficult of all
These departments, generally kept distinct, was a single depart-
ment in the service. It was General Miller who collected, large-
ly by impressment, organized and led out into the Indian coun-
try the large ox train, which hauled out three months' supplies
for the volunteers in the beginning of the campaign, without
which it could not have been waged. He was distinguished by
remarkable sound sense and judgment and Governor Stevens
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 251
counseled with and relied upon him more than any other. And
after the close of the Indian war General Miller was Governor
Stevens' closest friend in the territory."
When Governor Stevens issued his order disbanding the
vohmteer organization General ]\Iiller took steps to sell at
public auction the animals, equipment and supplies at hand
and settling the accounts. The sales of property realized $150,-
000, the articles sold generally bringing more than the original
cost, and the sum realized was more than enough to defray the
entire cost of the expedition. After the close of the war Gov-
ernor Stevens was successful in having the territory made a
separate Indian Superintendency and General W. W. Miller
was appointed Superintendent General, which important posi-
tion he filled with credit to himself and with satisfaction of the
Governor. In politics General Miller was an unsv^^erving Demo-
crat and took an active part in the Stevens' campaign when
the latter was seeking re-election as a Territorial Delegate to
Congress. Among the papers preserved by Governor Stevens
was a letter written him by his friend General Miller, when
the Governor was in "Washington, D. C. which reads: "I
believe that National Democracy can verily keep possession of
the territory. Your own prospects are good. Now that you
have won a National fame, you will always be looked upon as
the leading man in the Northwest, and you cannot be beaten
at the next election."
General W. W. Miller secured as his bride ]\Iiss ]Mary Mc-
Fadden, an undisputed belle of Olympia and two handsome sons
were born to them, Winlock and Pendelton. The General's
death occurred in Olympia, and his son, Pendelton, in Seattle,
both being interred in Masonic cemetery.
Mrs. Miller and her son, Winlock Miller, now make their
home in Seattle, although Mrs. Miller has large ]-)roperty hold-
ings still in Olympia. Several years ago Mrs. IMillcr presented
U) the city of Olympia the valuable block of land on which is
now situated the Winlock Miller High School.
252 THURSTON COUNTY
CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS SIMMONS
To see and talk with the first white child born north and
Avest of the Columbia River was one of the delightful ex-
periences of the compiler upon one of her quests for remi-
niscences of old timers.
C. C. Simmons and his wife have their home in a cozy
nook on the east shore of Mud Bay, where Mr. Simmons is the
oAvner of valuable oyster and clam beds. Here for the past
dozen years this worthy couple have lived in quiet content.
Their children married and with homes of their own, frequently
come to visit their father and mother, holding fast to family
ties, and keeping in touch with their parents.
The coming of the Simmons family to the West has been
tcld so often by abler historians that the present writer feels
that a brief mention of these, among the very first seMlers in
this county, will suffice here.
Col. Michael T. Simmons, of Irish ancestry, although born
in Kentucky, was among the hardy immigrants who dared to
venture into the totally unknown wilderness of Pugct Sound
as early as 1844.
Married and with four sons, Simmons, whose indominable
spirit refused to be disheartened or depressed, joined the ox
train of fortune seekers, among whom were the men and women
who were to lay the foundation of the magnificent develop-
ment of this section of the Puget Sound country. The fam-
ilies who, with Simmons, finally settled in what is now Thurs-
ton County were : James McAllister and his wife, Martha,
their children, George, America, who afterwards became ]\Irs.
Thomas Chambers ; Martha, afterwards the wife of Joseph
Brunston, and John ; David Kindred and his wife Talitha, and
son, John K. ; Gabriel and Mrs. Keziah B. Johns, their sons,
Lewis and Morris, and daughter Elizabeth, who married Jo-
seph Broshears in 1852, and the Bush family, consisting of
George and Isabelle J., father and mother, William Owen, Jo-
seph Talbot, Reily B., Henry Sandford and Jackson January.
The party had wintered in Vancouver while Simmons and
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 253
some of the other men had made the trip up the Cowlitz River
to ascertain the value of the land, quality of timher and pros-
pect for wresting a livelihood from the wilds. But in the fall
of 1845 they all brought their families to the Sound. Simmons
located his claim at the falls of the Deschutes River, which was
then known by the Indians as "Tumchuck" — throbbing water.
The Bush family took up land on the edge of the prairie,
which has ever since been called by their name. Kindred's
claim was just south of what is now Olympia, and the IMcAllis-
ters v.-ere eventually located near the Nesqually Eiver. Sim-
mons laid out the town of New Market, now TumvY-ater, and
in the fall of 1846 built the first grist mill north of the Co-
lumbia. This historic mill was roughh" built of logs, with its
mill stones made from flat boulders found in the stream whose
waters turned the rude wheel. From this coarse, unbolted flour,
the first bread from home grown wheat was made, and this
bread was considered a great luxury after a diet of dried peas.
and boiled wheat, Avhich had formed the staple diet before the
completion of the mill.
Before coming to Puget Sound, v/hile the Simmons were
wintering on the north bank of the Columbia, near Y/ashougal,
the irrepressible Christopher Columbus was born. This histor^'
is now continued in C. C. Simmons' own words.
"Yes, I reckon I was the first white child born in this
neck of the woods, and father and mother seemed to think be-
cause I enjoj^ed this distinction I must have discovered the
country, so they called me Christopher Columbus. I first saw
the light of day April 10, 1845, and my birth chamber was a
sheep pen "vwth a canvas stretched over the roof to keep part
of the rain from mother and me. There were eleven children
in our family — the boys, George Washington, David C, filar-
ion Francis and McDonald, were older than me and crossed
the plains with father and mother. Then I came next and
younger than me were : Benjamin Franklin, Charlotte, filary.
Kate, Charles Mason and dad's namesake filichael T. Of these
children David and McDonald are dead, Marion lives in Puy-
allup, Benjamin F. in Seattle, Charlotte is ]\Irs. Kuntz. of
Chehalis, Mary is Mrs. Holmes, living in IMassaehusetts. Kate
married a man named Kantwell, Charles M. lives in Puyallup
and i\Iichael in EUensburg.
254 THURSTON COUNTY
"During the Indian v.ar we were all forted in the Collins
blockhouse where is now Arcadia, but I was not old enough
to take an active part in that trouble. I have always been
poor in this world's goods and am glad of it. There is the
less danger of being robbed, although I have had my chances
for wealth more than most.
"One time when I was working for my uncle, Dr. May-
nard, who was one of the first settlers of King County, he
made me a present of a deed to 160 acres of what is now West
Seattle. I held on to it for a while and then found it tot)
troublesome to care for the deed and to keep the small amount
of taxes paid, so I gave it back to Uncle Maynard, much to
his disgust. He thought I must have very little sense not to
hang on to what he knew would be very valuable at some
not far-off day.
"Father died on his farm in Lewis County a long time
ago and mother lived until about 24 years ago, spending her
last days in Shelton. When I was nineteen years of age I
was married to Asenath Ann Kennedy, who was but four-
teen, and has been my true and faithful wife for fifty years
of wedded happiness. Of course, we had to elope, for her
parents w^ould not give consent till she was at least out of
school. I rowed, one dark night, from the Big Skookum to
Steilacoom, where Ann was attending school, picked her up
at a point we had agreed on and then we made our way to
Seattle.
"Even in those days a girl had to be at least eighteen
before she could marry without her parents' sanction. Well.
we hardly knew what to do. So when we got to Seattle we
went to Uncle Maynard for advice. This good man considered
a moment and then said to Ann 'Take off your shoes.' She
did so and Dr. Maynard wrote the figures 18 on two slips
of paper and put them in her shoes. Ann caught on as quick
as lightning. A few minutes later we stood up before Rev.
Daniel Bagley, who asked her age. 'Why, I'm over eighteen,'
she said as bland as milk, and so we W'Cre married and have
lived happily together.
"On August 25th, 1914, we celebrated our golden wed-
ding at our home on ]\Iud Bay, with all of our nine children
and our grandchildren around us."
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 255
HARVEY R, WOODARD.
The account given by the pioneer son of a pioneer fat]ier
of their early days on Puget Sound presents a photographic
reproduction of the scenes and experiences which are now but
a dream of by-gone days. Ah)nzo B. Woodard, senior repre-
sentative of one of Thurston County's best known pioneer fam-
ilies tells the following:
"Father, mother and we three boys, Theodore, Delbert
and your humble servant, came to Oregon in the early fif-
ties, reaching The Dalles after a cruel, hard trip, over the Ore-
gon Trail.
"Father's cattle were so worn out that they every one
died of starvation and exposure early in the winter. He had
left them to be taken care of at The Dalles, but the Avinter
Avas unexpectedly severe, there was no feed to be bought and
the snow covered the ranges.
"The family came on down to Vancouver before the ex-
treme cold set in, and father tried to rent a house for us, but
found that to be impossible. A piece of ground large enough
to set a tent upon was rented for $10 a month, so my parents
decided that where there was so much unoccupied territory
— you might say all of what is now both Oregon and Wash-
ington being still unsettled, this was two much of a price to
pay. Accordingly, they went a few miles out of Vancouver,
and father built a little one-room affair of logs in which we
could store our plunder and sleep. All that winter mother
cooked our meals on an open fire made from the green wood
father would cut from the forest. As the snow lay twelve
inches deep on the ground we all had a pretty uncomfortable
time. Up to February the Columbia was frozen so solidly no
boats could come up from Portland, but as Spring came on
the weather moderated and the sAvift Avater formed an open
channel in the river. Father fixed up some canoes, and leav-
ing mother and us boys at Vancouver started for Puget Sound.
"x\fter many perils and liardships he reached Avhat he
ahvavs referred to as God's CountrA' and located a claim on
256 THURSTON COUNTY
South Bay. When the weather got nice and warm father
sent for his family and we made the trip by water. The boat
came to the landing place in connection with Fort Nesqually
and there father met ns with a row boat and took us to what
was to be our home for some years.
"I was but a lad, and had never seen salt water before.
I was filled with admiration of the beautiful picture pre-
sented by South Bay with the dense forest coming" down to
the shores of the bay and the clear, delighful looking water.
We camped that night on the beach and in the morning imag-
ine my dismay when I looked out on what seemed to me but
a sea of mud. Father reassured me, however, and told me
that w^as the Avay of the tide — always on the ebb and flow —
and as sure as it went so surely would it come again. We
lived here on South Bay for the next two or three years in
peace and were beginning to feel quite prosperous. Father,
with the help of us boys had cleared and planted tAvelve acres
of land. We had a yoke of oxen, a cow and some pigs, and
father had built a very comfortable home.
"In 1855, just as we began to reap the reward of our hard
work and previous privations, the Indian war broke out. We had
been hearing ugly rumors for some time, and one afternoon
Owen Bush rode up to our place and told us about the killing
of McAllister by the Indians. Father went on up to the head
of the bay to learn all he could about whether there was real
danger and found that all the settlers had already fled to
Olympia. Hastening back home he hurried us all into a row
boat and started for town. On the way he stopped and took
]\Irs. Knott and Mrs. Frazier in our boat.
"When we got up opposite Herbert Jeals' place, we were
terrified to hear firing back of the house. Father and I were
pulling the oars and Theodore was steering the boat. We
struck out across the bay for the west side, expecting to see
Indian war canoes take after us, in which event we knew we
would soon be overhauled, for our boat was clumsy and over-
loaded. When we got oft' the Harstein Island point one of
the worst wind storms came up I have ever experienced. I
have never seen the waters of Puget Sound so rough. The
waves were lashed into a fury, and ran so high that our cap-
size seemed imminent. ^Irs. Frazier was the worst scared
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 257
v.Oiiian I ever saw. She lay in the bottom of the boat moaning
and crying, not knowing whether she was to meet death at
the hands of the Indians or be drowned in Puget Sound. But
along toward morning we reached Olympia all safe and sound,
although almost exhausted. The next day father and I Avent
back home for the rest of our things and we lived all winter
in Turn water.
"Eight here I want to say that after my experiences of
t':at year, no talk of war time prices can scare me. Father had
t ) pay $3 a bushel for potatoes, $20 a barrel for flour, $8 a
keg for syrup, and there was a tradition that butter was a
dollar a pound — but about that I cannot say. The Woodards
didn't see any of that luxury for many a month. Our main
living was potatoes, clams, oysters, ducks and always sal-
mon. Until father built his grist mill, all our flour came
around the Horn and from being for months in the hold of
vessels became musty and all but unfit to eat. I have seen
mother lift squirming worms out of the mildewed stuff she
was obliged to use in making our bread.
"After the close of the war father went back to South
Union and later overhauled and rebuilt a mill on the Sequal-
ochen, but I spent my winters in town attending school.
Among the teachers I remember in those days were Rev.
Dillon and Mrs. Doyle, both fine instructors, leading their
pupils along learning's path with a kind firmness that has
liad its effect all through my life. Father in later years
bought the old Woodard home on the West Side, where he
died in 1872. Mother lived over twenty years after father's
death.
"When I attained my majority I spent some years in
Oregon — was there during the Civil War, and while here had
my greatest piece of good luck. While living in Lafayette.
T met and was married to my wife — formerly Miss Wallace.
Later we returned to Olympia, where for years we have led
a peaceful, uneventful life. We have had two daughters and
one son born to us: Elma Amelia, now Mrs. Crawford, of
Tacoma and Ada Salome, the wife of Captain George S. E.
Krem. Our son Van Eugene died a few years ago."
258 THURSTON COUNTY
STEPHEN D. REINHART
"You must be sure to give prominent mention to the
Reinhart family, and Mrs. Reinhart's father, William Cock,"
was frequently told the compiler when interviewing the few
living men and women whose memory carried them back to
their associates of sixty-five years ago.
Stephen D. Reinhart was of German ancestry, but was
himself a native of Kentucky. He was educated in the State
of Indiana and there was married to Miss Sarah Cock. In
1852, when the tide of immigration was strong towards the
land of the setting sun, the young Reinharts, with their babj^
boy, William, started for the long and dangerous trip over
the old Oregon Trail. The journey was attended with the
almost incredible hardships and dangers which the immi-
grants were called upon to endure. The oxen became ex-
hausted when the alkali country was reached, and finally
Mr. Reinhart was obliged to separate the hind wheels of his
wagon from the front ones, fit a rude tongue to these and
with this miserable make-shift proceed on the journey to The
Dalles.
Rafting his family and few worldly possessions to the
Cascades, ]\Ir. Reinhart was here fortunate enough to secure
the contract for loading a sloop bound for Portland. This
put the adventurer in funds again and provided a means of
passage down the Columbia to Portland. From this point the
Reinharts took up the line of march for the Puget Sound
country. Reaching Grand Mound Prairie the young man took
up a donation claim and started a little home. Prosperity had
just begun to smile upon the family, when the Indian war
broke out and they were obliged to abandon their claim and
seek shelter in the nearest blockhouse. Sir. Reinhart has-
tened to tender his services toward the defense of the country
by enlisting in the rank of Washington volunteers.
After the close of the war the family removed to Olym-
pia, Avhere Mr. Reinhart engaged in mill building, he having
learned the trade of millwright in his vouth. He also at one
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 259
time ran a saw mill. By this time he had acquired consider-
able property and built for his home the house now owned by
!Mrs. Tew, on the corner of ]\Iain and Fifteenth Streets. In
1862 Mrs. Reinhart's health began to fail and they went to
Grande Rounde, Oregon, in the hopes of her improvement.
This move not proving of benefit, they proceeded to Napa,
California. Mrs. Reinhart died a few years later at Calistoga
Springs, Napa County. Mr. Reinhart then brought his chil-
dren back to Oregon, where he was made Indian agent at the
Grande Rounde reservation. Later, about the year 1872, Mr.
Reinhart went to "Whatcom County, where he took up a claim
of 160 acres of fine agricultural land which he developed with
the passing of years and with characteristic energy, into one
of the most valuable farms in that region. ]\Ir. Reinhart was
a member of the Territorial Legislature for two terms, Jus-
tice of the Peace several terms, and at the time of his death in
1901. was enjoying an unexpired term as State Senator.
Besides the son William, who was born in the old home
in Indiana, Senator and ]\Irs. Reinhart were the parents of
four sons and daughters born after reaching the Coast. Of
these Captain Calif S. Reinhart, Clerk of the Supreme Court,
until recently president of the Olympia National Bank and
Captain of Co. A., First National Guard of Washington, three
times mayor of Olympia, his native city, and a sister, Mrs.
Carrie Chandler, whose home is in Bellingham survive. Wil-
liam at the age of 23 died while returning from a sea voyage
in Callao, and was buried from the steamship Great Republic.
]Mrs. Reinhart's father was the Col. William Cock, Avho
is well remembered among Olympia pioneers. He was first
Territoral Treasurer, serving in that capacity from 1854 to
1861 and for many years prominently connected with the
business and social life of Olympia.
260 ■ ' THUR3T0X COUNTY
A TRIP TO STEILACOOM
To the lover of Nature and seeker after historic spots there
is no section more alluring than that traversed by the old
militarj" road between Olympia and the old town of Steila-
coom, thence on a short two miles to what was formerly the
location of Fort Steilacoom, but now the site of the modern
Washington Hospital for Insane.
Over roads delightfully smooth the auto glides along to
the top of the Nesqually hill. The road now becomes beautiful
and picturesque with the fern-decked bank on the one side
and the ravine with its big trees on the other. Winding and
curving the road is still a safe enoug'h one, owing to the wide
turnouts at each curve. On down through the rich Nesqually
bottom, over the long bridge with the river, clay white, rushing
below. The ascent of the hill on the Pierce County side is
gradual and easily accomplished and when the summit is
reached, what a panorama is spread out. Surely in all Wash-
ington there is no nobler view than this. The broad green
pastures, surrounded with a fringe of tall evergreens and the
blue, sparkling waters of Old Puget Sound gleaming in the
distance.
A few miles on and the site of old Fort Nesqually is
reached. Although but one of the original buildings remains
and in the immediate neighborhood are the squalid huts, for-
merly used by the employes of a powder company, this spot
is full of interest to the historian.
Fort Nesqually was established in 1833 by Archibald Mc-
Donald, for years a noted factor and trader of the Hudson
Bay Company. For years the Indians came in large bands to
this fort from their camps on Admiralty Inlet and Puget
Sound, as well as from far along the Coast, with their furs
and skins to barter with the Boston men. All the buildings
were situated on or near the banks of Sequalachew Creek and
wore of logs, the principal one being fifty-five feet long.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 261
twenty feet wide and twelve feet Inirh. The roofs Avere of
cedar bark held in place by poles and the floors were of
1 imcheon. An immense fireplace with the chimney built
of sticks plastered with clay, warmed the large main room.
At one time, well within the memory of several Thurston
C<mnty pioneers, Fort Steilacoom was presided over by Dr.
AVilliam Fraser Tolmie. chief factor for the Hudson Bay Com-
pany.
Reaching Steilacoom the beholder is enchanted with the
]■ veliness of the view of the Sound from the town, as it
t.tretches out wide and beautiful, with IMcNeils and other
f.maller islanr^.s in the distance. The bell crowned stone
monument, marking the site of the first Protestant Church
built north of the Columbia River, and the quaint little Catholic
Church, are the interesting points in this town of by-gone day,^.
The tourist Avill loiter an hour in the quaint old town and
then on to what was Fort Steilacoom.
The hugh pile of bricks with its iron grated wards filled
with gibbering, gesticulating maniacs, the squads of the more
orderly inmates in charge of their attendants working and
''esting around the beautiful grounds is. perhaps, a sight to
interest the curious, but one which fills the average beholder
■"vith sadness. Here the cottages which Avere ol^^icers' quarters
in the days of military occupancy of the place are now used
as homes for the assistant physicians, engineer and accountants,
employed in the asylum. In a field adjoining are still to be
seen the "Z" shaped earth works throAvn up by the soldiers of
Captain Pickett's regiment. For over twenty-five years one of
the attendants in the men's ward of the asylum has been INIr.
Fred Guj^ot, formerly an Olympia boy, son of Julian Guyot,
the pioneer jeweler of Olympia. Fred was born in Calaveras
County, California, in 1851. His father, a native of Switzer-
land had, with his young wife, been among the gold seekers of
'49. On July 4, 1859. shortly after the death of Fred's mother,
the elder Guyot and his little son left San Francisco for Puget
Sound. The trip was made on the steamship Northerner and
was the last vo.yage of this vessel, as upon her return to San
Francisco she was wrecked off the Oregon coast.
When the Guyots arrived at Olympia the steamer landed
at the historic Brown's AVIiarf on the West Side. Father an;l
H^'l THURSTON COUNTY
son, with other passengers, were brought to the town in a row
boat, which was manned and operated for hire by the brothers
^Monzo and Theodore Woodard. Lentil a permanent boarding
place could be found the new arrivals stayed at the Pacific
Hotel, which was then managed by ^Irs. Warbass. The elder
Guyot engaged in the jewelry and watch repairing business.
Watches were sent him from all over the western part of
the territory to be made as good as new again.
j\Ir. Julian Guyot died in Olympia in 1877. The younger
Guyot attended the public school of the place, and remembers
John and Robert Yantis, Billy Clark, Bernham Huntington, Will
Eeinhart, Ben Cock, Frank Hicks, Lizzie Warbass, and Fannie
Yantis, as among his schoolmates. His first Sunday School
teacher was Mrs. George F. Whitworth. Mr. Guyot was ap-
pointed attendant at the asylum under Dr. Waughop, in 1889.
The visitor to Steilacoom strolling through the abandoned
cemetery in the rear of the huge pile of buildings and within
the asylum enclosure finds plenty of food for reflection upon
the unstability of human greatness. Here, underneath a mossy
slab of marble with the lettering all but defaced, the wild
grasses growing in a tangle within the little enclosure made
of decaying pickets rest the remains of the fourth governor
of the territory, Col. William H. Wallace.
Within a few feet from the grave of this honored man
is standing a wooden slab bearing this inscription: "In mem-
ory of Charles ^McDonald, aged 36 years. Died at the hands
of violence, 1870."
Mr. Guyot 's account of the tragic circumstances of ]Mc-
Donald's death is given in his own words: "Charlie ]Mc-
Donald and his partner, named Gibson, had staked out a claim
not far from Fort Steilacoom, which they had worked and
improved until they had developed a valuable property. i\Ic-
Donald was a remarkably handsome young man with black
flashing eyes, black hair, worn, as was the fashion of the time,
well down over his coat collar, erect figure and gallant bear-
ing. He was a fine figure of a man as he rode into town
mounted on his spirited horse.
Now, infesting the prairie and surrounding section held
forth as lawless and vicious a band of men as could be found
on the frontier. The leader of these leagued rogues had cast
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 2fi3
covetous eyes upon ^McDonald's and Gibson's claim, and as
v.-as so often done in those wild days took steps to secure the
land by preferring the charge that the partners were what
was known in the parlance of the day, "claim jumpers." ]Mc-
Donald and Gibson acknowledged the subpeona served upon
them and set out to appear in court to answer to the summons.
When within a short distance from the fort, where the
trail wound through the woods, the men were ambushed
by the gang of claim jumpers, who began pouring a rain of
bullets at them. Their horses dashed forward and McDonald
escaped unharmed, but not so Gibson, who was unfortunate
enough to receive eight bullet w^ounds in his arms and legs,
none striking a vital spot, however. JMcDonald helped his
partner into the fort, where he was turned over to the army
physician to have his wounds dressed. The young man then
rode on into the town of Steilacoom to demand protection of
the Sheriff, Ike Carson, who was, however, out of the country,
as the mob well knew. Soon the gang folloAved him into town
ranging themselves in line on the opposite side of the street
from a saloon in which ^McDonald was standing and began to
call upon him to show himself. Thinking to argue with the
mob, jMcDonald stepped to the door, and said, "Now, boys, let's
talk this matter over. There must be some misunderstanding
and to show 3'ou that I want peace I'll throw my gun away."
Suiting the action to the word he hurled his weapon into the
dust of the street. Scarcely had he done so, however, when
the gang opened fire. Realizing then that they would not stop
short of murder, ^McDonald turned and ran through the saloon
and down an alley in the rear. The men started after him in
full cry, firing as they ran. Before the fugitive had gone forty
feet a bullet reached its mark and he fell mortally wounded.
As he lay there in the pitiless sun, a small boy, attracted
by the shots, came down the alley. Hearing McDonald's gasp-
ing cry for "water" the lad started to bring him some, but
the leader of the murderers stepped out and warned the child
that McDonald's fate would be his if he dared to relieve his
distress, the boy shrank, whimpering away, leaving the dying
man to groan aloud in his death agony.
But, look, is this an angel bending piteously over thi^
sufferer? So she must have seemed to IMcDonald as his dviiitr
264 THURSTON COUNTY
gaze looked into the sad, tender eyes of a Sister of Charity.
This sister, one of a band of noble women inhabiting the
nunnery, which the Catholic Church had early established in
Steilaeoora, had hastened to the awful scene as soon as she
heard the shots and realized that her ministrations might be
needed.
''Go, sister, leave me, your life is in danger," gasped ?.Ic-
Donald. "By all the powers of God, church and humanity, T
dare them to interfere with me," said the Sister as she moist-
ened the lips and straightened the limbs of the dying man.
Not one of that lawless band moved a finger to prevent the
sister in her work of mercy. When life was extinct ]\IeDonald 's
remains were taken into the little old Catholic Church, which
still stands as a shrine to the weary at the top of the hill, and
tenderly prepared for burial. Not yet satisfied with their
bloody work the mob started back along the road to find Gib-
son. The latter, after having his wounds dressed, had insisted
(ui being placed in a wagon and started to town to learn the
late of his partner, McDonald. Within a mile of town the mob
met and surrounded the vehicle. Gibson, weak and almost
fainting from loss of blood, raised himself in the wagonbed
until he could snatch the revolver from the belt of the Indian
driver. One shot was all he had strength for but that struck
one of the mob in the leg, and had Gibson not been too over-
come with the exertion to take aim correctly he would have
avenged McDonald's death. The mob made short work of
Gibson and shot him through the head.
Almost within the shadow of the asylum is the spot where
Chief Leschi expiated his crime of the murder of Joseph
Miles and A. Benton Moses at the beginning of the Indian
war. This Indian had been surrendered by one of his relatives
for a reward of fifty blankets. Leschi was brought to trial
before a jury, among whom were Ezra Meeker and AVm. M.
Kincaid. After listening to the evidence these men stood for
acquittal with the result that the jury, being unable to agree,
was finally discharged. At a second trial before Chief Justice
Lander the Indian was convicted and sentenced to be hung.
Appeal was then taken to the Supreme Court which stayed
the execution for a while. The ease was this time argued
l)efore Justices 0. B. :\IcFadden and F. A. Cheuoweth. The
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 265
decision against Leschi by the Court was unanimous. The
opinion was written by Judge IMcFadden and sealed Leschi 's
doom. The date of execution was set for January 22, 1858.
Leschi was then sent to Fort Steilacoom to await the ful-
fillment of his sentence. Dr. Tolmie and other officials of
the Hudson Bay Company took active steps to secure a pardon
from Governor ]\Ic]\Iullen. but this was refused.
When the day of execution finally arrived Leschi 's friends
.secured a further delay by working a clever trick. The sheriff
of Pierce County and his deputy were placed under arrest by
Lieutenant I\IcKibben. who had been appointed a deputy Unit-
ed States Marshal, the trumped up charge against the Sheriff
av.d deputy being the selling of liquor to Indians. They were
released from custody as soon as the hour set for the execu-
tion was passed. This action on the part of the military offi-
cers and Hudson Bay people led to intense indignation among
the citizens. Mass meetings were held in Steilacoom and OljTii-
pia, at which Governor ]McMullen and Secretary INIason voiced
the indignation of the people at the manner in which the law
had been trampled on, and a series of resolutions were adopted
denouncing, by name the officers of Forts Nesqually and Steil-
acoom and Leschi 's attorney. As the Territorial Legislature was
in session an act was railroaded through both houses demand-
ing a special session of the Supreme Court to pronounce upon
the case of Leschi as it then stood.
At this special session the prisoner was resentenced for a
third time and William Mitchell, then acting Sheriff of Thurs-
ton County was appointed to carry the sentence into execution.
The date fixed was February 19. Captain Isaac Hays, Sheriff
of Thurston County, was at this time absent from the state, so
the unpleasant duty naturally fell upon the deputy.
In Mr. Mitchell's words:
"On the day sot for the execution, Ed. Furst, John Head,
George Blankenship, Charley Granger and myself set out on
horseback and went to Fort Steilacoom, where the prisoner was
turned over to me. The scaffold had been erected about a half
mile from the fort and there the execution took place. Know-
ing that Charley Granger had been a sailor, I asked him to tie
the noose about the neck of the condemned man, which he did.
Leschi made a speeeli to the Indians that were tliere, but as
2^6
THURSTON COUNTY
his talk was in his native tongue and no interpreter being pro-
vided I do not know what he said. These formalities having
been gone through with, I knocked the pin out from under the
trapdoor and Chief Leschi was sent to the happy hunting
grounds. He was undoubtedly as cruel and cunning an Indian
as there was in the Puget Sound country and deserved
hanging."
The scene of the closing act of the "Tragedy of
Leschi" was a short distance east of Fort Steilacoom and near
the north end of the lake of that name. Here the prairie sinks
into a rounding depression forming a natural ampitheatre, in
the center of which the gallows had been erected. The scene
must have been a dismal one ; the rain drizzled down, dripping
drearily from the fringe of stunted oaks which outlined the
depression. ^Making a hollow square around the rude scaffold
was a line of soldiers and a considerable number of Indians
and settlers stood near watching the end of the tragedy.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 267
THE CROSBY FAMILY
Like unto a saga of old, runs the story of the coming of the
Crosby family into the West. In all the wild experiences re-
lated during the compilation of this book, none were more
picturesque and interesting than the history of an entire fam-
ily of stalwart sons and fair daughters with their aged, but
sturdy father, coming with their own ship, laden with their
own goods, their children and themselves, to take their part in
conquering the wilderness. 'Way back in 1846 the United
States government sent Capt. Nathaniel Crosby — one of a fam-
ily of sea captains — in command of the brig 0. C. Raymond,
to take supplies to relieve the distress of those immigrants,, who,
illy prepared, as were all too many, had joined the wild rush
to seek their fortunes on the Pacific Coast.
So impressed was Capt. Crosby with the prospects of for-
tunes to be gained in this land of opportunities for the venture-
some, that he decided to have his kinsmen join him. After
sending back for his brothers to buy and fit out a brig with
everything needful for a home in the West, he waited with
v/hat patience he might, the arrival of his family.
Clanrick Crosby, an elder brother, bought the brig Grecian
— 270 tons capacity — and the start was made in 1849. Clanrick
was captain of the brig, wuth a brother-in-law, Washington
Hurd, first officer and Alfred Crosby second officer. In the
cabin were : Captain Nathaniel Crosby, Sr., father of Captain
Clanrick and Officer Alfred Crosby, who remained in the West
a couple of years before returning to his home in Cape Cod,
Massachusetts, where he died, Mrs. Clanrick Crosby, Phoebe,
and their three children, Clanrick, Phoebe Louisa and Cecelia,
Mrs. Elizabeth Hurd and little daughter, Ella — Mrs. Hurd was
Captain Crosby's sister, Mrs. Clara Nickerson Crosby, wife of
Alfred Crosby, Mrs. Mary Crosby, wife of Capt. Nathaniel, Jr.,
and their three children, Nathaniel, Mary L. and IMartha R.,
Mrs. Holmes, companion and housekeeper, and one passenger.
268 THURSTON COUNTY
Mr. Converse Lilly. Before the mast were Richard Hartley,
Joseph Taylor and Foster and Nathaniel Lincoln, brothers of
jNIrs. Nathaniel Crosby, Jr. The Grecian arrived at Portland
in March, 1850.
The two elder Crosby brothers came on to Tnmwater, Capt.
Nathaniel remaining in Oregon. Among the Crosby children
who made the famous trip in the Grecian w^as the little Martha,
then nine years of age. That child is now Mrs. Andrew J.
Burr and the reminiscences contributed by this lady were
among the most interesting of the many related by pioneer
men and women during the preparation of this volume. After
living in Portland until she was 11 years old, her father, Capt.
Nathaniel Crosby, took a cargo of spars from St. Helens, Ore-
gon, to Hong Kong, China, the first big sticks that were ever
sent from the Pacific Coast forests to the Orient. After a couple
of years of wandering in various ports, Capt. Crosby, leaving
his family in China, came to Olympia and loaded his ship with
a second cargo of spars for China, this second load having
been cut from Butlers Cove, and was the first shipment of
Puget Sound timber. In Hong Kong the Crosby family re-
mained for several years. Martha and the other children were
sent to school there and the child became a young woman.
Here Capt. Crosby died, the family still making their home
in this foreign land. In 1861 Martha became the wife of
Samuel C. Woodruff, a wealthy ship chandler of Hong Kong.
Her first child, Samuel L. Woodruff, was born there. The
cholera was raging at this time in China, so the young mother
brought her son to San Francisco until the danger had abated
a little. While living in this city her second child, Ada, was
born.
With her two little children Mrs. Wooruff came to Olympia
to visit her mother and brothers. The very first steamer which
came into port after their arrival here brought the news that
Mr. Woodruff had died from an attack of cholera. The widow
and her children continued to make Tumwater their home for
the following two years. Then she met and, in due time, was
married to Andrew J. Burr. The wedding took place in the
old Crosby house in Tumwater and Mr. and Mrs. Burr came to
Olympia to make their home.
To them were born three children, Maud, now Mrs. T. F.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 269
Basse of Seattle; Chas. A. Burr, still of Olympia, and June Burr
of Seattle.
Mr. Burr was possessed of considerable property at one
time in Ol.ympia and was one of the city's leading spirits in
business and political affairs. For eight years he was post-
master of the Capital City, and in his prime was quite noted
for his political speaking. He at one time stumped the territory
Avith Selucius Garfielde in one of the hottest campaigns known
in the history of his party. He was of an extraordinarily genial
and witty nature and his speeches were in great demand when
there was a political strife being carried on.
]\rr. Burr died in Olympia in the year 1900.
Of the two children born to I\Irs. Burr by her former
marriage both have become prominently known in their re-
spective life's work — Sam Woodruff having been identified
with the state institutions, formerly with the AVestern "Wash-
ington Hospital for Insane and at present the efficient super-
intendent of the School for Defective Youth at Medical Lake.
Ada Woodruff Anderson is an authoress of more than state-
wide celebrity, having been the writer of several novels and
magazine stories and sketches which have brought her name
prominently before the literary world. She makes her home
on Mercer Island, near Seattle. At one time Mrs. Anderson
taught the county school at Yelm Prairie. She tells with some
reminiscent pride that her teacher's certificate was presented
to her upon her graduation by the late Rev. John R. Thompson.
Among IMrs. Burr's personal reminiscences is singing
in the now famous choir of the Taylor Stfeet M. E. Church
when she was still a mere child. Beside her in this choir,
singing with all his sweet young voice stood John IMiller
]\Iurphy. This was in Portland before either the little JMartha
or Johnnie Murphy came to Puget Sound.
Soon after the arrival of the Crosby family in Portland
I\Iartha and her sister were invited to join some young people
of the settlement on a blackberry picking expedition on a cer-
tain day of the week. As the children were anxious to get
acquainted the invitation was accepted. On the appointed day
early in the morning, the sisters commenced to get ready for
their first social function in the West. White dresses were
carefully pressed out, hair put up in curl papers and strapped
270 THURSTON COUNTY
slippers donned over spotless white stockings. The sisters
were chagrined when their companions arrived to accompany
them to the berry patch and they saw how inappropriate was
their attire.
Mrs. Bnrr now makes her home in Seattle with her
daughter, I\Irs. Basse.
Captain Clanriek Crosby was one of the dominant spirits
in Tum water for many years, foremost in every enterprise
for the development and advancement of the community. He
it was who presented the original plot of land for the Masonic
and Odd Fellows cemeteries.
The children of Clanriek and IMrs. Crosby were Clan-
rick, jr., dead these many years, Phoebe Louise, Cecelia, Win,
Walter and Fannie. The eldest daughter is Mrs. George Biles
and the youngest girl is well known, not only in Olympia, but
Seattle, and Alaska points as well, as Mrs. John Y. Ostrander.
Walter Crosby is too well known in Olympia to need any
description. These two younger Crosbys were born after Capt,
and Mrs. Clanriek Crosby reached Tumwater. Mrs. Biles
being the oldest of the living children of Clanriek Crosby
was invited to contribute her reminiscences of her early life
in Tumwater. This lady was about nine years of age when
the Indian war broke out and well remembers the night some
friendly Indians came to her father's house and warned ]\Ir.
Crosby that there was danger of an attack from the hostiles.
Already the few residents of Tumwater had built the block
house which stood for many years at' the end of the bridge
across the Des Chutes River, but so far many of the families
continued to live in their own houses.
On this particular night Mr. Crosby was inclined to be
skeptical of there being any real danger, but the Indians told
him to watch for the light of burning buildings, and sure
enough, as soon as it was quite dark the heavens were lighted
up with the flare of the Glasgow and Linklighter barns,
which had been set on fire by the enemy.
That was convincing proof that the Indians were sincere
in giving the alarm. Hastily rousing the children from their
beds and dressing them, flight to the block house was made.
The little Phoebe — Mrs. Biles — was the proud possessor of a
bran new sun bonnet, wdiich in the haste of the family to get
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 271
away, was left hanging on the kitchen wall. After reaching
the fort, while her parents were getting the younger children
settled for the remainder of the night, the little girl slipped ont
in the dark and ran all alone all the way to her home to get
her precious sun bonnet.
Phoebe returned in safety, but her parents reprimanded
her severely for the fright she had given them.
In later years, 1865, Phoebe was married to George Biles,
himself the son of a pioneer. His father, James Biles, with
his wife and seven children, had arrived in Tumwater in 1853.
Accustomed as was the Biles family to the comparative
luxury of a Kentucky plantation, the life on Puget Sound was
a striking contrast. Clams, salmon and potatoes for staples
of diet, a log cabin to live in and nearest neighbors savage
Indians, the prospect was not especially alluring, but with
characteristic pluck and energy Mr. Biles succeeded in carving
a comfortable home out of the wilderness.
The Biles family were among the very first emigrants to
reach this section through the wild Natchez Pass. Before
reaching this pass their train was met by Ashur Seargent. who
was then acting as a guide to divert travel to the Puget Sound
country.
Besides George Biles there were these children in the Biles
family: James B., Kate E., now Mrs. F. M. Seargent of Seattle,
S. Isabelle, now Mrs. M. S. Drew, of Port Gamble.
21'^ THURSTON COUNTY
B. F. YANTIS
Snow beginning the latter part of October and falling to
a depth of fifteen inches, and himself and eight children being
forced to subsist on potatoes and dried salmon straight all
through the winter months, was the experience of Judge B,
F. Yantis and famil}', when they reached Bush Prairie in 1852.
Starting in the Spring of that year from the old home in
Missouri, where, although money might be a little scarce,
there was an abundance of the fat of the land for subsistence,
travelling all those long, weary months over the old Oregon
trail, leaving his wife and the mother of his children in a lonely
grave on the sage brush plains of Idaho, with his motherless
child, Fannie, an infant of but three years of age, the prospect
awaiting the hardy emigrant when he reached the El Dorado
of his dreams seemed cold and forbidding.
The trip, undertaken in company with a number of kins-
men and friends, had been an unusually trying experience.
Besides that of Mrs. Yantis, there were many other deaths
occurring in the train, owing to the appearance of black
measles, a sister, Mrs. Eliza Ostrander, with her children,
being among the sufferers. Judge Yantis' oldest daughter,
Mrs. W. H. Pullen, with her three-year-old baby in her arms,
was obliged, as were all the Avomen and children, to walk
across the five miles of portage below The Dalles. This child
was ill when the weary march through the hot sun was be-
gun, and grew rapidly worse as the mother plodded along.
Before the little boat was reached in which the party was
to be brought on down the Columbia, the baby was dead in
the distracted mother's arms. That evening a tiny grave was
made by the banks of the majestic river and the party were
obliged to proceed on their journey.
When the Big Sandy was reached the march was again
resumed to the Cowlitz River, where Indian canoes and ba-
teaus were employed to bring the w^eary emigrants to Cow-
B. F. YANTIS
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 273
]itz Landing. Judge Yantis' oxen were so exhausted by the
trip across the phiins that he left them to be wintered at The
Dalles. In the Spring he found that all had perished but one
ox. But nothing dismayed, and with the pluck and endur-
ance which was characteristic of the sturdy pioneers, Judge
Yantis at once p^^^ceeeded to take advantage of the opportunity
he saw on every hand, for bettering his financial affairs. A
homestead was pre-empted out on Bush Prairie, a few miles
from where Plum Station now is, and a comfortable home was
fioon established.
Before the family had lived many months in their new
Lome, another terrible blow was dealt them. The oldest boy,
James, became a pony express rider, carrying the mail from
Cowlitz Landing to Olympia. One day, being hot and dusty
from the riding, he went in swimming in Barnes' Lake, and
contracted inflammatory rheumatism, w^hich caused his death
within a few days.
After several years spent on the homestead, Judge Yantis
moved into Olympia and took a contract for carrying mail and
passengers from Cowlitz Landing to Olympia. This was a two
days' travel, over what has frequently been described by other
pioneers as the "worst roads on earth," but the mail was
always delivered with regularity, and the passengers in safety.
While living in Missouri B. F. Yantis was Judge of the
Superior Court of Saline County, and after reaching the West,
served in the irst Territorial Legislature. He was an un-
swerving Democrat and a life-long member of the Presbyterian
Church, and was the first Entered Apprentice initiated in Ma-
sonry north of the Columbia River. A man of high ideals
of honor and justice, Judge Yantis was held in great esteem
by his fellow pioneers.
His children were: Mrs. W. H. Pnllen, who in later
years became Mrs. Eichard Wood, and the mother of Oscar
and Addie Wood; Sarah, who was made a girl widow when
her husband of a few months, was killed at the beginning of
the Indian war. It was for the killing of Moses that Chief
Leschi was hung, after peace was declared. Sarah afterwards
became the wife of George C. Blankenship, and the mother
of George E. and Robert L. Blankenship; James II. Yantis,
the lad who died on Bush Prairie ; Wm. M., Robert L., John
274 THURSTON COUNTY
v., Mary, who died in infancy, and Frances L., wife of Capt.
J. J. Gilbert. Of this goodly family of sons and daughters
the youngest son, John V. is left — the last leaf on the tree.
His living children are George, Annie, Kobert, Hope, and
Faith.
REESE A. BREWER
Reese A. Brewer, a well known pioneer of Thurston County,
was born in Arkansas, in 1835. He came across the plains with
his mother, two brothers and two sisters, and settled near
Eugene, Oregon, and lived on a farm there until 1860, when
he came to Washington and settled on Grand Mound prairie.
in the southern part of Thurston County. Here he lived until
his death in 1909.
Mr. Brewer was a member of the Territorial Legislature
in the early eighties ; also a Justice of the Peace at Grand
Mound for six years ; postmaster seven years, and served two
terms as County Commissioner, and was Chairman of the
Board when the Thurston County court house was built,
which is now the west half of the present state capitol building.
Reese A. Brewer was married to Eliza A. Johnson, the
daughter of another Thurston County pioneer family, she hav-
ing crossed the plains from her native state, Iowa, in 1852
Mrs. Brewer died at the early age of 27 years.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 275
WILLIAM BILLINGS
Among the documents and papers from which facts re-
garding Tliurston County's pioneers were found, none were
of more service to the compiler than the scrap book formerly
belonging to Theodore L. Brown and loaned to the writer by
his wife, ]\Iartha. Mr. Brown realized that the actual pioneers
were rapidly being called, that soon there would be none left
to tell the story, so he made an effort to collect brief sketches
of as many of his old friends as he could reach. Among
those who complied with Mr. Brown's request for a life his-
tory was Mr. William Billings.
With characteristic modesty, Mr. Billings related only the
baldest facts concerning a life rich with experience and ad-
venture. A man who had been repeatedly honored by his gov-
ernment, and his fellow citizens, by appointment and election
to important offices, a man who had always stood for the
right, and who had never betrayed the trust of his fellow
men, what an opportunity for self laudation was afforded him
by Mr. Brown's request.
The compiler, respecting Mr. Billing's memory, deems
"that no words of hers can be more eloquent or expressive than
his own, written but a few months before his death:
"Olympia, May 25, 1908.
*'Mr. Brown,
"Dear Sir: In compliance with my promise, I will give
you a short account of my life.
"I was born in the town of Ripton, Addison County, Ver-
mont, October 27, 1827, where I lived until I was 19 years old.
Then I left home and came around Cape Horn on a whaling
vessel as a hand before the mast.
"I arrived at Sandwich Islands in 1848, when I left my
ship and stayed there till June, 1849, and while there I learned
276 THURSTON COUNTY
of the discovery of gold in California. I then came to San
Francisco, arriving on Jnly 4. 1849.
"I stayed but a short time in California. Came to Ore-
gon, landing at Portland on the 8th of September, 1849. Re-
mained in Portland till Jnly, 1851, when I came to Olympia,
then a part of Oregon. Olympia has been my home ever since.
When the Indian war broke out in 1855, I joined the volunteers.
"In 1860 I was elected Sheriff of Thurston County and re-
mained as Sheriff between twenty-three and twenty-four years.
I have held the position of Deputy U. S. Marshal under United
States Marshals C. E. Weed, Huntington, Hopkins, Phillip
Ritz and E. S. Kearney.
"I kept all the convicts in the Territory on a contract with
the Territory for nine years and was in charge of the Indians
on the reservation for about five years, living among them
with my family, and must say I always found the Indians
good, kind neighbors.
"Now, this is all I have to say and I am glad to be done,
for I am shaky, half blind and feel that my time now is very
short. William Billings."
Although Mr. Billings did not elaborate on any of the
events of his life, some of the incidents are too closely con-
nected with the early history of Thurston County to be ignored.
In 1877 he contracted with the Territory to build a jail
at his own expense, take all the prisoners as soon as convicted,
care for, board, clothe and protect them during their confine-
ment at the price of seventy cents each, per day, he being per-
mitted to use their services in any way he saw fit. He built
his jail at Seatco, started a cooper establishment, developed a
coal mine and organized the Seatco Manufacturing Company
for making sash, doors and blinds, continuing this contract
mbor for a term of nine years.
At the time he served as Superintendent of the Puyallup
Indian reservation there was not a white resident between
that reservation and Fort Steilacoom, and for weeks at a time
his family were alone among 600 Indians. That he found these
Indians "good, kind neighbors," is an eloquent tribute to Mr.
Billings' kindly management of the affairs of the reservation.
]\Ir. Billings was a volunteer in Company B, First Regi-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
277
ment, Capt. Gilmore Hays, during the Indian war and took
part in the engagements of Green River, White River and
South Prairie.
From 1869 to 1891 Mr. Billings was Sheriff of Thurston
County, being continuously elected and re-elected on the Re-
publican ticket, being the first man elected in Thurston
County on that ticket.
Mr. Billings was married in 1861 to Miss Mary Ann
Kandle of Tumwater, who died in 1868, leaving tw^o children,
one of whom is Charles A. Billings, one of Olympia's promi-
nent residents.
In 1873 Mr. Billings was again married, this time to Miss
Jeannette M. Ballentyne. Five children were born to them :
Frederick D., John Alden, Eunice Cleora, Laura Alice, de-
ceased, and Laura Blanche.
The widow, with her daughter, Laura Blanche, live in
their home on the corner of Ninth and Franklin Streets,
Blanche being a stenographer in the State Industrial Insurance
Commission.
278 THURSTON COUNTY
R. H. MILROY
While General Robert Houston Milroy and his wife cannot
be counted among the original pioneers who fought their way,
step by step, through the wilderness, their arrival in Olympia
as early as 1869. to take up the important duties of Superin-
tendent of Indian Affairs in the rapidly developing Territory
of Washington, and the respect and honor with which the
memories of General Milroy and his wife, IMary Armitage
Milroy, are cherished in the minds of the early Olympians,
surely entitle them to a prominent niche in this collection of
pioneer sketches.
General Milroy 's name is remembered with the respect
due to a patriot, a brave soldier and a public spirited citizen,
Mrs. Milroy, with her lovely character. Christian life and
womanly graces, was an inspiration towards all good to her
devoted family and wide circle of friends. R. H. Milroy was
a native of Washington County, Indiana, and was born in the
year 1816.
His ancestry and parentage were from an aristocratic
Scotch family. Indeed, the IMilroys could trace their ancestry
in a direct line back to Robert Bruce.
R. H. ]\Iilroy was educated in the Military Academy of
NorAvich, Vermont, where he graduated in 1843, Master of
Arts, of Law and of Civil Engineering and of Military Sciences,
He was valedictorian of his class. In 1850 he received a
diploma from the law school of Bloomington, Indiana, which
institution conferred on him the degree of B. L.
He was engaged in the practice of law when he was called
upon to take part in the war with IMexico. where he rendered
his country gallant service as Captain of the First Indiana
Regiment. After this war he was commissioned Judge of the
Eighth Judicial District of Indiana. At the breaking out of
the Civil w^ar Capt. Milroy was commissioned Colonel of the
Ninth Indiana Volunteers, serving under Gen. McClellan in
Western Virginia, and taking part in the battles of Grafton,
Philippi and Laurel Hill.
He was later commissioned Brigadier General, and placed
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 279
in command of the mountain department and put an effective
stop to guerrilla warfare in Western Virginia. President
Jefferson Davis made Milroy's order in regard to punishment
of guerrilla warfare the subject of a special message to the
Legislature and that body offered a reward of ten thousand
dollars for General Milroy, dead or alive. Milro}' and General
Butler were the only Union Generals thus honored by the
Southern Congress. For his gallant actions in the battles of
I\IcDowell and the second battle of Bull Run, he was made
]Ma,jor General of the second division of the Eighth Army
Corps, nine thousand strong, and with McReynolds' brigade,
occupied Winchester, July 11, 1863. He fought his last battle
in the war against Generals Forrest and Bates on the field at
Murfreesboro, and defeated their combined forces.
General ]\Iilroy resigned his command July 26, 1865, after
having served valiantly in the great struggle for the upholding
of the Union. After the war General Milroy was appointed
trustee of the Wabash and Erie Canal Company, and from
1869 to 1874 he was Superintendent of Indian Affairs in Wash-
ington territory.
From this date to the time of his death. General Milroy
was identified with Olympia and took an active interest in the
growth and development of the city. He built the house on
the corner of Eleventh and iNlain streets, which was the JMilroy
home until after the family was broken up by the death of
j\Irs. Milroy, and where General ]\Iilroy ceased his earthly
labors on the 29th of March, 1890.
Of the seven children bom to General and Mrs. IMillroy
only three are still living, Robert Bruce, Valerius A. and
Walter J. The son Valerius or Val, as he is commonly known
in Olympia, has remained faithful to his boyhood home. Com-
ing here when but a lad of 18 years, he became a clerk in his
father's office, and from there spent a few years in surveying,
and learning the printers' trade. He was at one time engaged
in the livery business with Mr. jM. 'Conner, and was ap-
pointed postmaster of Olympia by President Harrison. After
the expiration of his term of office he was elected city clerk,
and has since held positions of honor and trust. Val is still
unmarried. Of the other sons. Robert Bruce, with his family,
lives in Yakima, and Walter J. and wife live in Victoria, B. C.
280 THURSTON COUNTY
JOHN BEARD ALLEN
John Beard Allen was born at Crawfordsville, IMontgom-
ery County, Indiana, May 18, 1845.
He was the son of Joseph S. Allen, a prominent physician
and surgeon of that town and Hannah (Beard) Allen, daughter
of Hon. John Beard of the same place.
John Beard was called "the father of Montgomery Coun-
ty" from the fact of his having represented it for some twenty
odd years in the Legislature. He was a strong figure in the
early political annals of Indiana.
John Allen received his education in the common schools
of his native town and at Wabash College, located there. He
showed at school a great fondness and attitude for mathe-
matical studies, also for history, especially political history.
He cared, apparently, but little for the languages and
literature. During the "Morgan Raid" into Indiana and Ohio,
one of the exciting episodes of the Civil war, John Allen served
as a "Minuteman" until the capture of Morgan. He also en-
listed in the 135th Indiana Infantry, under a call for five
months service in 1863 and served over seven months. He
was honorabl}' discharged from both these enlistments.
In 1865 the family removed to Rochester, Minnesota. Here
after a year spent in business, principally in buying wheat, he
entered the law office of Hon. C. C. Wilson, as a student, later
attending a course of law^ lectures at the University of ]\Iich-
igan.
In 1868 he began legal practice at Goshen, Indiana, in
partnership with the late Hon. J. J. Brown, of Spokane, who
had been a schoolmate at Wabash and Ann Arbor.
He was recalled to Rochester by the last illness of his
mother, who died in December of that year.
Yielding to the persuasions of his family, he determined
to remain at Rochester. Here he was elected City Attorney
in 1869, when barely twenty-four years of age.
Early in 1870 he came to Washington Territory, bring-
ing with him a very considerable sum of money, which had
been intrusted to him for investment by his father and busi-
nessmen of Rochester.
The money was invested with remarkably good judgment.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 281
considering the then undeveloped state of the country and his
entire lack of experience in that line of business.
After looking over the ' ' Sound ' ' couiitry he selected Olym-
pia as his home, considering it likely to be selected by the
Northern Pacific Railway Company as its western terminus.
He opened a law office in the old "Good Templars Hall,"
paying office rent, by acting as janitor of the building. He
did not remain long in this location for in the early fall of
1871, he was found in the Cushman Land Office building with
a pretty fair ott'ice equipment and a considerable law prac-
tice. This progress seems quite remarkable when we recall
the great strength of the Olj^mpia Bar, which at that time
carried such names as Selucius Garfielde, 0. B. McFadden,
J. E. Wyche, Elwood Evans, B. F. Deiinison, Eiisha P. Ferry
and Henry G. Stmve, all strong men and some of them giants
in the law.
In September, 1871, he was married to ]\Iiss M. Cecelia Bate-
man, of Lamont, Michigan, a woman of great intellectual ability
and unusual force of character. He continued to reside at
Olympia until 1881, when he removed to Walla Walla. In 1875
he was appointed U. S. Attorney for Washington Territory,
which office he held by successive appointments, for ten years.
In 1889 he was elected delegate to Congress on the Re-
publican ticket and the Territory having been admitted as a
State before he took his seat as delegate, he was elected the
first U. S. Senator, drawing a four year term. Ex-Gov. Wat-
son C. Squire was the other Senator elected. He was a can-
didate for reelection to the Senate in 1893, but by a strange
combination of circumstances and political factors, the session
was deadlocked and there was no election. He was appointed
by Gov. McGraw to fill the vacancy, but the appointmeut was
unavailing, under the rule and precedents of the Senate.
Mr. Allen was the overwhelming choice of his party both
in State and Legislature, but a sufficint number of Republicans
refused to go into caucus to prevent his election. On the ex-
piration of his Senatorial term in 189-1, he removed to Seattle,
where he practiced his profession until his death, January
28, 1903, from an attack of angina pectoris.
He was a member of the firm of Struve, Allen, Hughes &
MeMicken during all this time.
282 THURSTON COUNTY
RECOLLECTIONS OF A NATIVE SON
A peculiar charm hovers about the scenes of one's early
childhood ; an atmosphere surrounds them that ever appeals to
the adult, and no matter how far removed from the place of
birth and boyhood, in later years, the call to return, even for
a short period, to renew fond recollections, becomes irresist-
able.
Especially is this true with a western born boy, whose
earliest recollections are of a social condition that was crude,
and of a people, though not of the caste of Vere de Vere, were
honest, chivalrous and generous to a fault. To the boy whose
lines were cast in the Puget Sound region in the late 50 's and
early 60 's, the development of the country from a peopleless
wilderness to populous towns and cities is to him almost in-
credible, encompassed in so comparatively short a time.
I was born in Olympia before the great Civil war was de-
clared. The Capital City was then the metropolis, Steilacoom
had an existence stimulated by an army post located where the
asylum now is, and Seattle, the present giant of the Northwest,
was a hamlet composed of a few people living upon their
original pre-emption claims.
Olympia 's means of communication in those days was by
a stage line to the South, coaches leaving every other morn-
ing and returning every second day, providing the axles were
strong enough to withstand the awful roads. To the north,
on the Sound, the Eliza Anderson, a side-wheeler, with a
walking beam, plied, leaving the head of the Sound Sunday
night at 12 o'clock and returning some time during the latter
part of the same week. It cost one $15 to make the trip
one way to Victoria, berths and meals extra. Each trip the
old steamer would go out loaded with passengers and freight,
many cattle being driven in and shipped this way, which made
the route a very profitable one, together with a mail contract,
and during the many years of her service the old Anderson
probably earned her weight in gold. When the Alaska gold
discovery was made she was sent up to run on a northern
route and was wrecked.
MR. AND MRS. G. C. BLANKENSHIP
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 283
An incident of my early life occurred, beyond my recol-
lection, but of which I was told by my parents. My father
being Sheriff of Thurston County, he held in custody an In-
dian named Yelm Jim, who was held for murder. In those
days domestic help could not be had. Any woman arriving in
the country could be married in fifteen minutes if she so chose,
and it was generally noticeable that Barkis was willing. The
housewife was thus dependent solely upon the squaws. To
supply this deficiency in our own household, on especially
liard days for my mother, my father would heavily iron Yelm
Jim and bring him to the house as a playmate for me and thus
relieve a tired housekeeper of the added care of a trouble-
some child. To the da.y of my departure from home at the age
of eighteen, Yelm Jim was my firm friend.
Among the boys of those days still resident in the state
were Harry McElroy, well and favorably known, still a resi-
dent of Olympia ; the Percivals, Sam and John, well known in
Thurston County; Sam Woodruff, Superintendent of the Home
for Feeble Minded at Medical Lake ; Sam Crawford, of the
firm of Crawford & Converj^ of Seattle, a pioneer real estate
firm; Gilmore Parker, who was long a steamboat man on the
Sound, and who recently died in Seattle ; James P. Ferry, son
of Governor Ferry, now a resident of Seattle ; the McFaddens,
Frank, James, Cal and Kob, sons of Judge 0. B. McFadden,
all of whom are still living except James ; James Frazier, still
a surveyor in Olympia; the Garfieldes, William and Charles,
the former dead and the latter living in Alaska; H. E. Allen,
a young brother of Senator Jno. B. Allen, who was a promis-
ing lawyer in Spokane, but whose poor health caused his retire-
ment from the profession before his death ; Charles Evans,
now employed in the city hall in Tacoma ; C. S. Reinhart,
Clerk of the Supreme Court ; Henry Murphy, son of Editor
John ]\I. ]\Iurphy, who long was in charge of the mechanical
work on the Washington Standard, now dead; Theodore
Brown, who died a few years ago; Clarence and Alvin Coulter;
the Moores, Schooley and Waldo, the latter of whom died a
few years ago ; the Reeds, Thomas and Mark, sons of Thomas
M. Reed, the former a resident of Alaska, a lawyer, and the
latter managing a large logging interest in IMason County.
All more or less my companions in the days of real sport.
284 THURSTON COUNTY
Our education was undertaken by several teachers, at
different periods employed to teach the district school, held
in a two-story building occuping the northwest corner of Sixth
and Franklin. Among these educators were a Mr. Boynton,
C. B. Mann, who long since deserted the profession to become
a business man and a successful one ; L. P. Veneu, Miss Gid-
dings, later wife of Thomas M. Reed ; I\Iiss Slocum, now the
wife of W. E. Boone, a retired architect of Seattle ; a Mr.
Kaj^e, a better scholar than disciplinarian, v-^ho was succeeded
by Freeman Brown, both scholar and disciplinarian, who took
no pains to conceal an iron hand in a velvet glove, and when
remonstrating with a refactory pupil Vv'as a cyclone in action.
Then, too, some of us attended private schools. L. P.
Venen long taught in the old Odd Fellows' building, on the
east side of Washington street, between Fourth and Fifth.
Miss Lord for a time taught a private school. She came to
this country with her mother in the old Continental, the ship
chartered to bring a large number of women from New Eng-
land, Vv'hen they were a drug on the market, to the Territory
of Washington, where they were in demand and were known
as the Mercer g-irls, a man by the name of Mercer having con-
ceived and executed the undertaking. Many estimable girls
accompanied this expedition and were later married here. Miss
Mary O'Neil, still a resident of Olympia, was a primary
teacher, as was, also, Jacob Hoover, who was later a success-
ful lawyer and banker in Spokane.
There were no graded schools then and the now expen-
sive luxury, the high school, was unknown. All were con-
tained in not to exceed tAvo rooms, where the a b c's and
Caesar's Commentaries or Virgil were pursued with more or
less vigor. It was not found necessary then to furnish play-
grounds and gymnasiums, the former we boys found v/hen-
ever wanted and gjannastics were furnished b,y the parents
on the woodpiles or in gardening, where youthful exuberance
of spirits was worked off in a way at once beneficial to the
youngster and profitable to the ancestor who boarded him.
Two of Olympia 's boys, brothers, Avho received the rudi-
ments of their education here, and desirous of higher educa-
tion, were graduates of the University of California, in a way
very creditable to themselves, and worthy of being mentioned.
FIONEER REMINISCENCES 2S5
In order to save their means for school purposes, they walked
part of the way to California, and each, on graduation, was
valedictorian of his class, the younger brother one year later
than the elder. These boys were Harry and John Wliitworth,
sens of Eev. Geo. F. Whitworth. Harry Whitworth is now
a civil engineer in Seattle, and John, who was a lawyer in
San Francisco, died all too young.
The simple pleasures of those days were ample. The
hunting grounds for the boys of that time are built up with
residences now. The Des Chutes at Tumwater Falls was ex-
cellent fishing grounds, and salmon, salmon trout, and tom
and rock cod were plentiful in Budd's Inlet. There vv^ere no
restrictions in those days and it was common for the expert
shots to take stations on the i\Iarshville bridge (to the vrest-
side) and Swantown bridge (to the eastside) and shoot the
ducks on the wing when passing over in flocks. Then one
could even dig clams whenever or wherever desired without
being embarrassed with a trespass sign.
The "public square," what is now Capital Park, v/as
donated by Edmund Sylvester for park purposes, was a base-
ball grounds. Upon the southeast corner, for many years,
stood an old blockhouse which served as city bastile and
county jail. This, as a place of retention, Avas exceedingly
popular with the prisoners, as any one desirous of taking
leave, tired of confinement, could easily do so without the aid
of officer or habeas corpus, reh'ing only on his own personal
efforts.
Swimming was indulged in promiscuously without the
formalities of bath houses or bathing suits. Above the Swan-
town bridge, back of the old Barnes residence, was well
patronized, as was also a little wharf in the rear of the old
Olympic hall, where the K. of P. hall and the Bolster &
Barnes business block are now located. Ladies, desiring to
cross the bridge for Marsh ville, were well aware of the in-
formality prevalent among the boys, and accepted as estab-
lished the fact that at any hour of the day and until early
candle light in the Summertime, there was spread out for her
gaze an exaggerated September ]\Iorn scene which she could
pretend to .ignore and go her way, or she could take a boat
and cross the bay lower down. The boys' prerogatives in
286 THURSTON COUNT-t
this respect were never interfered v/ith until later regulation
forbade bathing in the city limits without a bathing suit. The
tideflats were left as bare in those days as now at low tides,
and the impatient boy would strip and lie wallowing in the
soft mud like a hog, until the tide came in and washed him
off. At any time during the summer, one could make any
young hopeful cringe b}' making a show to touch him upon
the back, so raw was the average youngster from exposure
to the sun's rays.
Baseball, during the early daj^s and during the period
of underhanded pitching, was a favorite amusement and
Olympia alwaj's had a good club, plenty good enough to hold
the championship over the Victoria club, with which it played
several games. Which suggests an amusing incident : At the
time when the San Juan archipelago was still in dispute and
Emperor William had been accepted by both sides to the con-
troversy as umpire, but had not rendered his decision, there
was a big game to be played between Victoria and Olympia.
The Olympia boys were preparing for their trip to Victoria
when there was posted upon a bulletin board on a Western
Union telegraph blank, the following purported dispatch from
Washington: ''Emperor William has decided to let the re-
sult of the coming baseball game between Olympia and Vic-
toria dictate his decision of the international boundary ques-
tion." Olympia won and Emperor William decided in favor
of the United States, but it is not likely that he ever heard
of the ball game. But there were those who took the above
dispatch as authentic.
The great event of every boy's life — his first circus — T
recall vividly. The tent was pitched upon the ground now oc-
cupied by the Kneeland Hotel, Harris' building and the
Capital National Bank. It was known as Bartholomew's, and
was a good one for the day. It was brought cross country,
and arriving late, the preparations for the performance were
hurried. As a result, the seats fell three times, causing in-
jury to several. After the third trial Bartholomew appeared
and notified the people that he would refund their money or
he would erect the seats and make another trial at their
pleasure. The true Western spirit became evident and the
cry went up: "Set 'em up again, we'll stay with you all
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 287
night," and they did. The second circus visiting this section
came by water from Portland, met witli heavy storms and lost
much of its stock and its performance was much impaired
from this fact.
Looking backward, how insignificant incidents impress
one. As the war had just closed and Indian war spirit had
not entirely died out, juvenile military companies were a
favorite diversion, which suggests an incident, showing the
great political sagacity of Schooley Moore, who should be a
politician now instead of a timber cruiser. One evening, the
youth of the town meeting to organize, Schooley Moore had
candidates for Captain and First Lieutenant which he desired
to elect. Accordingly he went to each member confidentialh*
and whispered: "Vote this ticket — Smith for Captain, Treen
for First Lieutenant, yourself for Second Lieutenant." The
result was that Smith was elected Captain, Treen First Lieu-
tenant and every other man in the company had a vote for
Second Lieutenant.
This isolated corner of the country was not frequently
visited by the great men of the country, though I do remem-
ber seeing Wm. H. Seward, the scar fresh upon his face, which
the would-be assassin had placed there, when the great na-
tional tragedy was enacted, after he had spoken in the old
Tacoma Hall, where the K. of P. lodge room is now. And
later I remember of an evening when the people of Olympia
were to be addressed from wagons, which had been drawn
up about the corner of Main and Third Streets, where the
old Pacific Hotel then stood. Boy-like, I was to the fore and
occupied a seat I found vacant in one of the wagons. I was
somewhat astonished later when a gentleman near me arose
and began to speak. I found out afterward that the man was
Schuyler Colfax, afterwards Speaker of the House of Represent-
atives, and still more recently Vice President, with President
Grant.
I recall the half-masting of the flags over public build-
ings here when the news of Lincoln's assassination was re-
ceived, but was hardly able to appreciate the full import of
the deed, or to fully sjmipathize Avith the deep feeling enter-
tained by our patriotic citizens. I recollect that the old Pres-
byterian Church was effectively decorated for the Sunday fol-
288 THURSTON COUNTY
lowing the assassination in the national colors and black. Con-
siderable feeling was aroused in the chnrch by this act of the
pastor.
At the age of fourteen I entered upon a political career,
brief and unsuccessful. The federal government allowed the
Territorial Legislature, for the first time, to employ a page.
My grandfather was a member of the House, which gave me
a ''pull," and I became an active candidate for the place.
The caucus was held before the Walla Walla delegation ar-
rived, and I was successful. Hillory Butler, then well ad-
vanced in years, afterward a King County capitalist, r\dio
owned the Butler Hotel, was caucus choice for Sergeant-at-
arms, and all went merrily on until the arrival of the Walla
Walla delegation, who announced they had a candidate for
Sergeant-at-arms who must be landed. They were too strong
to be denied. This caused the displacement of Mr. Butler,
and, as his Seattle property had not become as valuable as
it did later, he was of necessity in line for a place. Under
these circumstances I v/as removed and Mr. Butler given the
pageship, which he had good reason to regret later, for
Francis Henry, who was a member of the House from Thurs-
ton County, cartooned him most unmercifully in his juvenile
occupation, which quite hurt the feelings of the dignifierl
Hillory Butler, who was a Southerner of the old school.
Of the boys who figured as my youthful companions Sam
Woodruff stands out as a bright particular star. Gifted in
many ways Sam was always a stellar attraction in all Euter-
pian and Thespian events by local talent. Sam and I were
bunkies for j-ears and during this time conceived the idea of
becoming cranberry merchants, gathering our product from
the vicinity of Black Lake. Accordingly, one bright morn-
ing, we started out for the lake with our utensils packed upon
the back of a buckskin cayuse. We were not experts in mak-
ing the diamond hitch, so familiar to the woodsman, but the
horse was covered after a fashion, with blankets, frying pans,
cups, etc. For convenience Sam had tied the halter, by which
he was leading the horse, to his belt. Bej^ond Tumwater a
hornet came in violent contact with our pack animal, who
started to run, and as Sam was securely attached, he ran, too.
Whereupon the loosely packed kitchen utensils commenced to
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 289
rattle, and then it may be fairly stated that that cayuse be-
came frantic. There was a split in the atmosphere and that
animal was gone. With a very taut halter, Sam went along —
not that he wanted to, but more because the impulse was ir-
resistible. As m}' partner was aware his life depended upon
his keeping on his feet, he did so, but in so doing it is no ex-
aggeration to state that in following his leader he touched
only the very high places. Following along, picking up the
scattered cooking utensils as they dropped from the fright-
ened animal, I would see the firm impact of Sam's heel in the
sand here and there, about twenty-five feet apart, till the ex-
hausted animal stopped of his own accord and saved my part-
ner's life, for it is sure that if Sam had gone down he would
have been dragged to death, and the State of Washington
would have lost the best institution man that it has had.
The girls of our time — at least some of them — have more
or less distinguished themselves.
Among these I recall Annie Pixley, who became a fam-
ous actress. Her father, in the early days, barn-stormed the
country, using Annie and her sister Minnie as stellar attrac-
tions. Their specialties were song and dances and very good
they were. In off professional seasons Pixley ran a sort of a
merry-go-round. I recall being struck and knocked out by
one of the imitation horses. When brought around I found
my head pillowed in the pretty Annie's lap. In later years,
when I saw her as the buxom Gretchen, playing to Joseph
Jefferson's ''Rip Van Winkle," I felt not at all disinclined to
be kicked by a mule, in order to be resuscitated by so fair
a means.
May Tilley, daughter of Rice Tilley, a well-to-do livery
man, who long ran a business in the old barn removed to make
room for the new city hall, became the Countess Starva, and
as such attracted considerable attention with her beauty. She
died a few years ago, leaving a considerable fortune to her
brothers, Frank and Guy, Olympia boys.
There lived down the bay, on the east side, many years
ago, a truck gardener, who came to town frequently with the
products of his garden, and, after disposing of them would
return home, frequently' "stewed." He had a squaw wife.
Our little village was somewhat exercised when we learned
290 THURSTON COUNTY
that in a circus about to come to the town there was a lady
bareback rider, Linda Jeal, and that she was the daughter of
"our old Jeal." It was a proud day for the old man when
he came to town, accompanied by his squaw wife in brig'ht
array. The talented daughter, be it said to her credit, gave
the old man a gracious reception.
At the same time there was on our theatrical circuit a
monologue artist, singer and dancer, named Charles Vivian.
He was an exceptionally handsome Englishman, talented and
well educated. He was the father of the Elks. Vivian was
a great favorite on the Sound. After the show, when he had
taken himself to a saloon for refreshment, he was especially
entertaining. I remember him telling with great glee how Jeal
had tried to persuade him to marry the fair Linda, graphi-
cally portraying how profitable could be made the combined
talents of the couple.
Woven into the w^oof of the life of Lucky Baldwin were
the lives of two Olympia-born girls — one shot him, the other
married him. After Baldwin had acquired his immense for-
tune, he met Verona Baldwin, daughter of A. J. Baldwin, a
pioneer of Thurston County. He persuaded her to go to his
ranch in Southern California, there to teach school. For some
injury — fancied or real — that Verona experienced there, she
shot Lucky on the stairway of his own hotel, the Baldwin, in
San Francisco. In 1857-8 there was here a man named A. A.
Bennett, who, for a short time engaged in contracting and
building. While here a daughter w^as born to ]\Irs. Bennett,
after which they moved to San Francisco, where Mr. Bennett
opened an office as an architect. Lucky Baldwin secured his
services for some work on his Southern California ranch. The
architect took his very pretty daughter, Lily, with him for
a trip. Thus it was that during the time Mr. Bennett was
engaged in his professional services, the fair Lily, a young
woman of hardly thirty, met Lucky Baldwin, aged sixty or
over, with a reputation that would shame any one, and they
were married. Notwithstanding the fact that Baldwin was
over sixty when married, he lived for many years thereafter,
and when he committed the only commendable act of his life
by dying, Lily Baldwin shared in his estate to the extent of
$800,000, so the newspapers said. But she had earned it.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 291
A RELUCTANT BRIDEGROOM
At one time there appeared in Olympia a man calling him-
self Charles Henry DeWolf, claiming to be a physician, who
delivered a course of lectures on phrenology, free love and
kindred subjects. During his career in Olympia, Charles Henry
contracted what he called a conjugal alliance and matrimonial
copartnership, which w^as announced as follows:
"Married — At the house of the bride's parents, Dr. C. H.
DeWolf of Philadelphia, Pa., to Eliza A. Hurd, of Olympia, in
the following manner: 'We, the undersigned, hereby announce
to the world that we have contracted a conjugal alliance and
entered into a matrimonial copartnership, believing in the di-
vine right of souls to dictate their own forms and the inspira-
tion of Mother Nature and Father God as being above custom,
and priestly ceremony, however long dignified by legal enact-
ment and Christian dictation. This act we perform, taking up-
on ourselves the responsibility in the presence of these wit-
nesses, whose names accompany our own on this public declara-
tion Made this 13th day of May, 1862.
Eliza Ann Hurd.
Witnesses: Charles Henry DeWolf.
H. R. Woodard.
Salome Woodard.
B. F. Brown.
Mary Brown."
On Sunday night Charles Henry and his new partner, went
to the home of the bride's parents, intending to take the early
morning boat down Sound. The deputy sheriff went aboard the
boat and intercepted the party.
On the w^harf at Olympia had been erected a temporary
observatory, a field glass, mounted on a tripod, and many were
the scientific observers.
About 11 o'clock the same day, DeWolf was arraigned be-
fore Justice Bigelow, plead not guilty to a charge of violating
the matrimonial law. El wood Evans appeared for the Terri-
torv and defendant for himself.
292 THURSTON COUNTY
Charles Henry DeWolf, M. D., F. F. L. S., and a minister
of the gospel, had a right to marry himself, he declared, and
then let loose a Pandora's box. this ingenious, self-possessed
unscrupulous dog. The peacock, whose little heart is one beat-
ing pulse of vanit}^, was not more vain. He assumed to de-
sire martyrdom at the hands of "sneaking, lying, peddling,
begging clerical sons of Ahab ; the drunken Justices and be-
sotted Judges and their black-hearted and villainous sup-
porters."
Judge Bigelow bound the defendants over in the sum of
$1000 to appear before the district court, and the bride's father
furnished the bail and released the gay Don Juan and his
victim.
Tuesday Charles Henry was apprehended on a charge of
open and notorious fornication and sent to jail. On trial he
repeated his former wild talk. He would never be married
by a lawful party. It was degrading to his manhood to think
of it. He would bow to no "fawTiing, hypocritical, thieving
priest ; no drunken, mercenary justice or corrupt judge for
the senseless words: 'I pronounce you man and wife.' Olym-
pians were incapable of appreciating his high motives. Future
generations would recognize his mart^Tdom."
Judge McGill said he would ask a few questions which
would materially bear upon his decision.
"Do you," he said, "consent to take this woman as your
wedded wife?"
"I do."
"And do you," to the woman, "consent to take this man
as your lawful husband?"
' "Yes."
"Then," said the Justice, cooly, "by virtue of the power
vested in me, in the presence of these witnesses, pronounce you
man and wife."
If you ever saw a hailstorm, thunder and lightning both
included ; if you ever saw the briny ocean, with the waves in
high commotion, rise like unto snow-capped mountains, that
was Chas. Henry.
"You can't come that dodge on me," the reluctant bride-
groom shouted, but cooled down when threatened with fine
for contempt.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 293
The Justice dismissed the charges against DeAVolf, who
paid the costs. Charles Henry was married by a Justice and
his free love career brought to an end. The current news-
paper has this notice.
"]\Iarried — By Henry McGill, in the Justice Court, Wed-
nesday, May 21, 1862, Charles Henry DeWolf and Mrs. Eliza
Kurd."
"Be virtuous and you will be happy." Thus did tlie
worthy pioneers resent the intrusion of an unscruplous char-
latan upon an worthy family and saved from dishonor an
illusionized but virtuous woman.
Although the Eastern people regarded the extreme west as
wild and woolly, and do so still to a less extent, yet the fact
remains that the standard of civilization has always been held
high. The country from the first was peopled by an educated
and refined, but hardy people, who, with the courage of their
convictions, held morality in great esteem, especially as applied
to the integrity of the home, and enforced its recognition with
rigid firmness.
I recall a man living in the primitive Olympia, who had
a large family and was brutal in his treatment of both wife
and children. The ladies of the town held a mass meeting and
addressed a letter to the brute, notifying him to mend his ways
or be treated to a coat of tar and feathers, preparatory to being
conducted to the city limits. The man took the delicate hint
and left town soon after. There are old ladies living in Olym-
pia today who signed that letter.
294 THURSTON COUNTY
GEORGE D. SHANNON
Among the men most prominently identified with the
financial development of Olympia was George D. Shannon,
who was one of the leading spirits in the organization of the
Olympia Light & Power Company. Mr. Shannon sank a very
comfortable fortune in this enterprise, which, although dis-
astrous in the eventual outcome to the original promoters, was
one of the most important steps ever taken in Olympia 's de-
velopment.
In the year 1870 I\Ir. Shannon was appointed superintend-
ent of construction of the Northern Pacific Railroad, when
that line was being built between Kalama and Taeoma, and
at that time came to Olympia to make his home. After spend-
ing a few years in the city, he became the owner of the
magnificent farm of 11,000 acres on the Nesqually bottom. Here
he lived for about twenty years lavishly entertaining the fore-
most men of the State, and being generally regarded as a prince
of good fellows, highly respected and liked for his sterling
qualities.
In the late '80s Mr. Shannon, with others organized the
Olympia Light & Power Co., and was also one of the original
incorporators of the First National Bank of Olympia, of which
institution he was a trustee at the time of his death.
Soon after Mr. Shannon's arrival in Olympia he became
the warm personal friend of Governor E. P. Ferry, and through
that executive was appointed a member of the State Building
Committee and was acting on the Board of Trustees of the
Western Washington Hospital for Insane at the time the main
hospital building was erected.
While on a visit to the World's Exposition of 1876, Mr.
Shannon was married to I\Iiss ]\lary A. Kennedy, of Cleveland.
Ohio, and brought his bride to the West with him upon his
return.
George D. Shannon was a native of New York, and was
born in the year 1882. At the early age of 16 the young man
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
295
started in a railroad career, working his way up until in 1858
he was appointed superintendent of construction of the Winona
& St. Peters Railroad, on the completion of which ]\Ir. Shannon
was made conductor on the first passenger train ever run
west of the ]\Iississippi in Minnesota. He followed railroad-
ing in that state until 1868, and subsequently engaged in rail-
road contracting in New York, Indiana and Wisconsin.
Mr. Shannon was a 32d Degree j\Iason and upon the occa-
sion of his death in 1895 the ]\Iasonic Fraternity from all over
the State gathered in Olympia to honor their brother. The
funeral services were in charge of this brotherhood and the
interment was in Masonic Cemetery.
Mrs. Shannon made her home in Olj'^mpia after the death
of her husband until 1905 when she, too, answered the last
summons.
296 THURSTON COUNTY
P. M. TROY'S REMINISCENCES OF THE OLYMPIA
COLLEGIATE INSTITUTE
Among the foremost of the educational institutions of the
earlier Territorial days was the Olympia Collegiate Institute,
and the associations and remembrances of that school are still
treasured in the minds of many of the foremost men and
women of the now flourishing State of Washington.
Desiring a sketch of this once famous place of learning,
the compiler requested Mr. P. M. Troy to contribute a chapter
of his reminiscences as an attendant at the 0. C. I., which
request that gentleman very kindly complied with.
Reminiscences of O. C. I. at the Time When I Knew It.
I came to the school in the Autumn of 1888. L. E. Fol-
lenbee was then principal. L. P. Venen was the instructor in
Greek, Latin and the higher mathematics. A Professor W. H.
Lewis was in charge of the primary department. John L.
Henderson was principal of the commercial department. There
was also a music teacher, whose name I now forget. There
were between two and three hundred students. It was then
the first school in the Territory. There was a normal course,
and a commercial course. I attended this school from the Fall
of 1888 to the Summer of 1890, when I was graduated from
the normal department.
Among those who were in attendance when I was there
were Mr. W. C. Hazzard, now living in Wisconsin, and for-
merly Superintendent of the Olympia schools ; A. C. St. John,
now a prominent merchant of Chehalis ; Joel E. Stearns, now
a county official at Chehalis; Harris Ward, now a minister in
the M. E. Church ; C. B. Seeley, also a minister in the M. E.
Church ; C. V. Leach, subsequently County Clerk of Thurston
County, and now an official in the postoffice at Olympia,
Washington ; A. L. Callow, subsequently County Clerk and
County Auditor of Thurston, now a merchant at Elma ; Miss
Nellie Trewick, who subsequently became Mrs. Geo. H. Gilpen.
now residing in Portland, Oregon ; Miss Emma Campbell, who
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 297
subsequeutly became ilrs. ]\I. B. Christopher, of Bellingham ;
^liss Olive Parker, now Mrs. Olive AVoods, of Waitsbiirg,
AVash. ; Miss Lavira ]Marr, now Mrs. A. C. St. John of Chehalis ;
Miss IMary Chilberg, who subsequently became Mrs. A. L.
Callow ; Miss Eva Sturclevant, who subsequently became Mrs.
P. M. Troy; ^Miss Jessie Barr, who subsequently became Mrs.
Geo. S. Hopkins, and George S. Hopkins, now a prominent
coal operator at RoshTi, Washington; W. W. Hopkins, since
prominent in Thurston County politics; D. S. Troy, who is now
State Senator from Chimacum; Arthur E. Cornelius, a farmer
at La Conner and many others whom I cannot now think of.
The school reached its high tide during the summer of
1890. There was a change in the management in the autumn
of 1890 and the school flourished during the next year, 1891,
but with the oncoming of hard times it went under. Then,
when the State of "Washington was admitted, there was a cor-
responding rise of the State University, and a corresponding
decline of private institutions.
The Oh'mpia Collegiate Institute was a flourishing school
in Olympia, Washington, for many years, and as I said before,
for a number of years was the leading educational institution
of the Territory of Washington.
L. E. Follansbee was followed as President of the school
by Rev. M. A. Covington, in the autumn of 1890, and a com-
plete new teaching force took charge of affairs that autumn.
C. V. Leach took Prof. Lewis' place in the fall of 1889, in the
primary department.
298 THURSTON COUNTY
BUILDING A PIONEER MEETIN' HOUSE
The story of how the Rev. J. F. DeVore built the first
Methodist Church on Puget Sound is a well known one to
the Thurston County pioneers. Rev. DeVore went to Capt.
Crosby, owner of the first saw mill on the Sound, and asked
the doughty captain how much lumber he was willing to con-
tribute towards the erection of a new church in Olympia. "As
much as you will raft in one day into the waters of the Des
Chutes River with your own hands," replied the captain, with
a sarcastic smile, regarding with no great degree of favor the
scholarly-looking man before him. "Very well, I thank you
in behalf of the church, and will be on hand in the morning,"
said the preacher.
How well this servant of God performed his part of the
contract is told in verse by a native daughter of Thurston
County, Lilla Spirlock, as related to her while she was a child,
by "Squire Plum," one of the old landmarks of the early
civilization of this county — long since gone to his reward. The
building erected with the rafted timber is now Ep worth Hall,
situated on Fifth street, south of the original location on Fourth
street, where it was removed many years ago to the site of the
new M. E. Church and when that was built, to the rear part of
the lot where it now stands. It was built in the early 50 's,
and nearly all the lumber used in construction was rafted by
the interpid clergyman from the Tumwater mill — the first saw
mill on Puget Sound — owned by Capt. Crosby.
When the West was all new and the frontier life
Bristled with dangers for children and wife.
When obstacles met within those early days.
Were oft hard to overcome by primitive ways;
When I was a child on Squire Plum's knee,
He would tell stories of the wild woods to me,
The ruggedest kinds of wild frontier tales,
'Bout Indian scouting with savage detail.
And when I was good — didn't bother his curls —
As good as could be, like his own little girls.
He'd sing me songs, then tell other things
And memory and heart around them still clings.
Now the one I relate, I remember so well,
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 299
And hear the quaint laugh when he chanced it to tell,
How "Preacher DeVore," as he called him then,
Tackled Cap Crosby while saving souls of men.
For he needed a meeting house so very bad
And lack of which made the old preacher sad
For the zealous old man with his Godlike grace,
With strength for a prayer or a danger to face.
Found skeptical brethren among his flock
Who hesitated long the purse to unlock.
But strong in the faith that the good Lord willed,
He firmly determined that church to build.
Now there lived within that little town
Where the river flows and o'er falls leaps down,
An old sea captain, who'd forsook the brine.
And had built a mill where the falls incline.
He, jolly old soul, liked a sailor's yarn.
Oft breathed words like unsanctified "consarn,"
But then, when the minister came one day.
With the meeting house project to display.
Asked how much he meant to give to the Lord,
It's rumored the old Captain almost "swored"
Declaring all preachers were drones in the swarm
And labored with tongue and not with arm.
But the preacher knew the captain's rough way.
That patience was needed when the Lord was to pay.
So at last old cap had promised most fair.
He'd willingly give to the Lord his share
All the lumber he'd carry away
And set afloat at the head of the bay
From dawn to eve of a long summer's day.
The dominie, with a glint in the eye.
Said t'was a sin to let such a chance pass by.
Now the mill's "furder," said old Squire Plum,
As he patted his curls with his finger and thumb.
Than two hundred yards from the water's edge,
And lumber as heavy as an old iron sledge
For 'twas green and filled with water and pitch.
And might baffle to "tote" the wits of a witch.
But the dominie murmured a "Thank you, sir,"
And grimly strode to where neighbors were.
And there he supped and stayed all night,
''Arising," Squire says, "with the first dawn of light,"
And prayed to the Lord for strength for his work,
(Tho' he had no need and was not a shirk
When duty hath called for a man to go
In marriage, death, or through rain or snow)
So he hoisted the sills on his shoulder broad,
Likewise framed timbers that the captain had sawed.
And down to the water he carried them all
And tied them secure from tide's rise and fall.
And all day long with his faith all afire.
Backward and forward o'er the deep mire,
300 THURSTON COUNTY
He carried each piece that built that place
Where his flock might listen to words of grace.
E'en refusing the captain's bid to dine
Least the work might lag while the sun did shine,
Eating his bite of a sandwich or two,
And still toted lumber the whole day through.
While the captain heaved a mournful sigh,
And repressed an oath, while he smiled quite sly.
Then he said, in respect to the man of the cloth,
"The Lord in him has none of the sloth,"
And when night fell over that little town.
This minister pulled his shirt sleeves down
O'er the hairy arms of his strength and brawn.
Then thanked the Lord and rested till dawn.
He had gathered all lumber for the best church in the West
And for that act of devotion he always was blest.
The writer of this poem, Lilla Spirlock, vv^as the daughter
of one of Thurston County's pioneer families, Avho for many
years made their home at Plum Station. The mother, Qlrs.
Cordelia Spirlock, came to Washington when but a child of
twelve years, in company with Mr. and Mrs. E. B. Plum, after
whom that section of the county was named, and the "Squire
Plum" mentioned in the poem.
MRS. JOHN G. SPARKS
Mrs. John G. Sparks — Grandma Sparks, as she is affec-
tionately called hy her intimates — was born and christened
Margaret Isabella Scott, in the year of 1820. She was a na-
tive of South Carolina, but removed with her family to
Georgia when she was but five years of age and later lived
in Arkansas. In 18-41 she was married to AVilliam A. Brewer
of that state. From this union ten children Avere born, six
of whom are still living: Mrs. Martha A. Crowe, of Walla
Walla ; John F. Brewer, of Eugene, Oregon ; Mrs. Ed. Harris
of Boisfort, Washington; Mrs. A. C. Sherwood, of Satsop;
James H. Brewer, of Taeoma, and Llrs. C. B. Mann, of
Olympia.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 301
Mrs. Mann, in speaking of her mother's life, said: "The
further West spirit was in the blood of father and mother
when they were young and full of energy, and breathed ever
stronger and stronger from the air of the early 50 's. So on
i\Iarch 16, 1853, this heroic pair, with their small children,
started by wagon over the Old Oregon Trail to the far-off
North Pacific coast.
"When we talk of hardships in our lives we ought to
blush with shame when we compare our trials with the dan-
gers and difficulties encountered by this young couple. Eight
long, weary months on the way from their old home were
they until they finally reached Eugene, Oregon, in Novem-
ber. Once they never tasted bread for five weeks ; once,
when they were travelling through a narrow valley, five hun-
dred Indians seemed to rise from the ground and, surrounding
the frightened emigrants, demanded all their food. The red-
skins enforced their demands by stampeding all the emigrants'
cattle and shooting a buffalo calf. It was only after a pow-
Avow lasting nearly all day that the Indians were shown that
the party would all starve if robbed of their supplies that a
final agreement was reached that the emigrants would give
the robbers one-half of all their food and provisions if they
would not further molest them. Every article of food which
the emigrants were carrying with them to sustain life in the
new country — flour, bacon, dried fruit, corn meal — everything,
was impartially divided before the Indians would allow the
Darty to proceed on their way.
"On the trip a son was born to Mr. and Mrs. Brewer.
'My husband was kind.' said mother, 'and wished to lay by
for a few days, but I said, 'no, just put a feather bed in the
bottom of the wagon and drive on. He did so and all was
well with me.' "
In 1858 Mr. Brewer died, leaving the wife with a
large family of small children dependent upon her. In
1860 the family moved to Grand Mound, Thurston County,
thus giving the mother and children the right to be numbered
among the pioneers of this county.
Mrs. Brewer was afterwards married to Henry L. Pal-
miter, who died in 1867. Later on she was niarrii'd to John
302 THURSTON COUNTY
Gr. Sparks of Olympia, where she afterwards resided until
+he time of her death in March, 1913.
At the time of her death it was said by one who loved
"Grandma Sparks": "In laying away the body in which her
heroic spirit had dwelt for over ninety-two years we parted
with one who was strong, cheery, courageous and religious. We
shall miss her."
EARLY NEWSPAPERS
The Columbian was first printed in a small building im-
mediately opposite where the Washington Standard was printed
for so many years, by T. F. :\IcElroy and J. W. Wiley. The
name of the Columbian, in its second year, was changed to
the Pioneer. A few years later R. A. Doyle bought the ma-
terial for another newspaper, l)ut it was merged into the
Pioneer, which afterward appeared as the }*ioneer and Demo-
crat. This journal continued publication until 1861. The
material afterward passed into the hands successively of A. ]M.
Poe, Poe & Watson, Wilson & Head, B. F. Kendall, Abbott
& Co., and was used by all these firms in the publication of
the Overland Press, a semi-weekly paper, the first number of
which appeared in 1862. The name was changed to Pacific
Tribune in 1864 and its publication continued by R. H. Hewitt,
sKC(!edcd ])y Chas. Prose-h. The Washington Standard com-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 303
iiienced publication November 17, 1860, before the demise of
the Pioneer and Democrat.
The newspaper men of the early days were as a rule iiicii
of. exceptional ability, some of them practical printers, who
saved the time of making copy by standing at the case, stick
in hand, and composing able articles on state affairs, economics,
and devoting much space to current politics.
As a sample of scathing denunciation indulged in in those
days we cite the following:
A correspondent signing his name as Scorpion attacked
Governor Stevens, and the Pioneer and Democrat replies as
follows:
"Scorpion — the name means a vile snake — a reptile — a
venemous serpent, with poison on its tongue, vengeance in its
heart, and ready to deal deatli to all who may come in contact
Avith it. It moves noiselessly along the path of the unsuspecting
passerby hissing, bites and retreats, leaving a loathsome, slimy
trail. * * * And now let us contrast the conduct of our
valiant citizen soldiery with his snakeship Scorpion — heaping
its vile abuse upon an absent soldier. We mean Governor
I. I. Stevens. Can the white-livered, cowardly, crawling reptile
Scorpion look such a man in the face and utter one word of
disparagement against him. No! No!! He would rather
seek employment at one cent per day to dig for himself a
coward's grave, beneath the bosom of the earth! And such
a Scorpion's grave should be in some dark, gloomy and se-
cluded spot, where the sun's glorious rays, that greens the
grass, can never reach his resting place. Let him rest in igno-
minious solitude, and depart
'' 'To the low, vile dust from which he sprung.
Unwept, unhonored and unsung.'
"To Scorpion and the troop of assailants of the Executive
and Territorial Administration we would say:
" 'Avaunt and (piil my sight!
Let the eartli hide thee! Thy bones are marrowless!
Thy blood is cold !
Hence ! Horrible shadow !
Let justice be done tliough the TL'avens fall!' "
304 THURSTON COUNTY
The same paper referring ta James Buchanan, Demo-
cratic candidate for President, says, '"he is riding on the top-
most wave of Eternal Democracy, which is ever rising higher
iind higher and like the tide of
'' 'The Proi)ontic Sea
Knows no retiring ebb." '
J. Newton Gale, a pioneer editor, thus described his
method of securing inspiration for his editorials :
"By reflecting, sitting alone in our room with our eyes
closed and our mind's eye soaring away into the eternal realms
of thought, and gathering knowledge from the falling spray
of the fountain of eternal realities, while scintillations from
the great central sun of intellectual light awaken latent powers
of the mind into active existencies."
In the year 1867 Frank Clark, on the Democratic ticket,
ran against Alvin Flanders, on the Republican ticket. Flanders
was not a speaker, while Ciark was quite a fluent talker. To
even up in the campaign the Republicans put Selucius Gar-
fielde, a brilliant orator, on the stump, and he accompanied
Flanders throughout a hard fought campaign. This situation
gave rise to the following poem, printed in the Washington
k^^tandard :
Alvin Flanders rode upon
A horse that wouldn't mind him.
And so to act as fugleman,
Selucius rode behind him.
Selucius was a proper man
And had so good a straddle.
That he could ride two horses, with
One office for a saddle.
His classic seat was full of grip.
His brain was scientific.
And large enough to hold a train
Of cars for the l*acific.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 305
His mouth o 'erf lowed with oily words,
In fact, 'twas even hinted
That he could make an off hand speech
Just like a book that's printed.
And thus they rode from place to place.
Wher'er their pony bore them;
When Flanders had to speak a piece,
Selucius spoke it for him.
'Tis mostly thus with those who shriek
Of Congress orthodoxy,
When called upon to fight or speak,
They do it best by proxy.
Some of the early editors were nothing if not grandiloquent
and elaborate, given much to poetic quotation. The simple
announcement of a dance for Fourth of July, 1854, is made
in the following language :
"Active preparations are on foot by the votaries of Terpsi-
chore to celebrate the evening of the Fourth at the new and
spacious hall in process of erection by ]\Ir. L. Ensign, which
will be in readiness for the occasion. Room for the million
can be obtained at the low price of $5 per couple, for v\^hich
more than value received cannot fail to be derived by an in-
dulgence in the nice things which will be provided for the
occasion.
" 'On with the dance, let joy be unconfined ;
No sleep till morn when youth and pleasure meet,
To chase the glowing hours with flying feet.' "
But the above excerpts are not intended to lead the reader
into the erroneous idea that these journalists devoted their
talents solely to fierce denunciation or frivolous generalities
Frequently when occasion demanded these men wrote editorials
that would command notice in any publication, ranging from
Ihe ridiculous to the pathetic, running the gamut from bitter
personal aiul political attack to the finer expressions of brothel'-
306 THURSTON COUNTY
ly love and good will, always uniting in eloquent tribute to
the fellow pioneers, as they, one by one, quit the scene of
their activities. Then, too, they were a unit in their efforts
for the upbuilding of the Territory and developing its latent
resources.
These early editors, of whatever party or creed, were
I)owerful factors in the advancement of this then unknown
section of the United States, and were poorly rewarded pecuni-
arily for their efforts.
THOMAS MILBURNE REED
Thomas M. Reed, who at the time of his death in 1905.
was the oldest Grand Secretary of ]Masons in length of ser-
vice in the entire world, and was honored by that noble frater-
nity as no other man in Washington. When death came to
Mr. Eeed in the 80th year of his age he had survived all but
one or two of the brethren wdio were associated with him when
the Washington Grand Lodge of Free and Accepted Masons
was organized in 1859, and his funeral was attended by per-
haps the most notable assemblage of Freemasons ever gathered
together in Washington. The Masonic funeral ceremony was
conducted by the Honorable Louis Ziegler, of Spokane. Some
fifteen or twenty years before Mr. Eeed's death a fraternal
compact was made between three Past Grand Masters of
Washington: Colonel Granvile 0. Haller, U. S. A., of Seattle;
Hon. Louis Ziegler, of Spokane, and Hon. Thomas Milburne
l^IONEER REMINISCENCES 307
Reed, of Olympia, to the effect that one or other of the sur-
vivors should conduct the Masonic ceremony at the burial of
the departed. With the death of T. M. Reed, Louis Ziegler
was the last remaining one of the three friends and the Ma-
sons who were gathered from all corners of Washington to at-
tend the funeral will not soon forget the words of philosophy,
love and eulogy so touchingly pronounced by the last sur-
vivor of the compact.
Thomas M. Reed was born at Sharpsburg, Bath County,
Kentucky, on December 8, 1852. He was of sturdy North Ire-
land Presbyterian stock and until the day of his death pre-
served unshaken the faith of his ancestors and never ceased
to take an active part in the management of the Presbyterian
congregation to which he belonged, although singularly free
from trace of prejudice or bigotry.
Thomas M. Reed's mother died when the lad w^as but
twelve years of age and he went to live for a while with a
brother of his deceased mother. At the age of fourteen we
find him laboring on his uncle's farm for eight dollars a
month and his board for nine months of the year. The winter
months were devoted to school. Out of the $72 earned during
the working months the young man clothed himself and paid
for his winter's schooling.
When Mr. Reed was about 18 years of age he was em-
ployed to teach a country school, and after a summer's ex-
perience at this work he secured a position in a country store,
earning several promotions in the course of the five years
following.
The most important step the young man took upon reach-
ing his majority was to join IloUoway Lodge No. 153, F. &
A. M., in his native Bath County. He received on July 7,
1847, the Sublime Degree and became Secretary in his Lodge.
When the news of the great gold strikes of 1848 in Cali-
fornia found its way into the Blue Grass state. Reed decided to
cut loose and strike for the Eldorado of the Pacific. He ar-
rived in California on July 26, 1849, and engaged at once in
the pursuit of the Golden Fleece and alternately filled posi-
tions of Postmaster, County Treasurer, County Superviser and
Justice of the Peace, which latter occupation was the incentive
to his study of the profession of law.
308 THURSTON COUNTY
Resolving- to shift the scene of his activities to Puget
Sound, Mr. Reed came to Olympia in 1857, and became the
agent of the "Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express. Later he kept a
store in the Capitol City. F'rom 1872 to 1880 he devoted most
of his time to the survey of public lands in Western Wash-
ington. In the year of 1877, the counties of Thurston and
Lewis elected him to the Territorial Council, which elected
him their President. At the close of the session Mr. Reed
was elected Territorial Auditor, w^iich position he held until
1888.
In 1889 he was elected a member of the Convention to
frame a Constitution for the new State of Washington and
was then elected State Auditor, where he remained until 1893.
this term closing his career as a public servant.
From December 8, 1858, Mr. Reed's thirty-third birthday,
when he was installed as its first Grand Secretary, to the day
of his death, nearly forty-seven years later, he loved and cher-
ished the Grand Lodge of Washington with marvelous devo-
tion and in all those years never missed a State Communica-
tion except once when he was unavoidably detained in Idaho
and the one which occurred in June, 1905, a few weeks prior
to his death. His inability to attend the latter Communica-
tion was the source of intense and pathetic disappointment
to him.
On the occasion of a visit to his old home in Kentucky,
Mr. Reed was married to Elizabeth Hannah Finley and two
sons were the result of this union — Thomas Milburne Reed,
jr., now of Nome, Alaska, and Senior Warden of Anvil Lodge,
of that place, and Marcus Edward Reed, manager of the Simp-
son Logging Company and a Past Master of Olympia Lodge
No. 1. After the death of his first wife, Mr. Reed married
Miss Eliza Carter Giddings, who became the mother of Emma
Reed Ingham. By a third marriage to Hattie A. Fox, he had
a son, Garnett Avery Reed. All of Mr. Reed's children are
married, respected and jjrosperous.
Thomas Milburne Reed died at his handsome home in
Olympia on the 8th day of October, 1905, thus fulfilling a wish
he had often expressed in life that his life might go out in glor-
iously fine weather. The day of his death and the day on
which his funeral was held were heavenly bright and peace-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 309
fill. In the words of his friend of many j^ears, Hon. John
Arthur, in a memorial service in memory of Thomas ]\Iil
l)urne Reed, voices the question of King David mourning over
the death of Abner, "Know ye not that there is a prince and
great man fallen this day in Israel?" in giving expression to
his grief over the passing of Thomas IMilburne Reed into his
rcAvard.
SOME TUMWATER REMINISCENCES
Contributed by Ada Sprague Mowell.
In 1869 ]\Ir. and ]\Irs. Alfred D. Sprague with their
seven children arrived in Olympia after a trip full of hard-
ships — coming by wagon, ])y foot and again by wagon from
Boise Cit}', Idaho.
Mr. Sprague was the type of man that is always a pioneer,
a descendant of those English pioneers to New England and
who later joined what was called the great Ohio Exodus.
After the marriage of Alfred Sprague to Whilmina Sager
the young couple took up a constant quest for new places.
They lived in five different states, each one a little farther
west.
Three children were born to them in Arkansas, two in
Kansas, two in Colorado, one in Idaho and two in Washing-
ton. Of these ten children three girls and three boys are
now living. The oldest daughter. Belle (]\Irs. David Dodd),
was married and living in Idaho, and Avas never in Washington.
She had five children. She died in 1888. Olive lives at Friday
Harbor. Etta, now ]\Irs. Gelbach, lives at Spokane. Hattie,
^Irs. Underwood, lives in ]\Iexico and California. Fred lives
in Alaska. Roderick lives at White Bluffs, Wash. The latter
is well known in Olympia on account of his editorial worlc
on the morning Olympian.
Two girls, Kate and I\Ieda, d'wd in theii- early 'teens, and
310 THURSTON COUNT"Y
Alice, jMrs. E. R. Rabbeson, a universal favorite, died in her
young wifehood leaving" two children. Winfield and Randolph.
The latter died in childhood and Winfield lives in Olympia.
Ada, the seventh child and the youngest daughter, is the
only one of the children living in Olympia. She is the wife
of Dr. J. W. Mowell, a Pennsylvanian who came to Washington
in the '90 's. Mrs. Mowell lives within a block of the first
house in which the Spragues lived in the state of Washington.
The original house was much smaller, of course. It was known
as the Hayden place to old timers. It is on Main Street be-
tween Tenth and Union. Though not among the early pioneers,
coming as they did in 1869, the Spragues knew all the pioneers
and in complying with a request for her to contribute some
of her reminiscences of early days in Tumwater, ]\Irs. Mowell
relates the following :
"As most of my journey to Washington was made in
my mother's arms, it is not strange that I do not remember
the exciting incidents of the trip, though I listened with bated
breath in later years to the hair-breadth escapes and thrilling
adventures.
"We did not stay long in Olympia, as Tumwater was the
first settlement and was much the most promising place then.
"We lived for a time in the old Barnes place, and later
moved to Bush Prairie, as being the only house obtainable
nearer the homestead my father wished to take up. There
at the Kuhn place, my brother, Frederick, was born, and here
we lived until a small clearing Avas made on the homestead
and a substantial log house was built.
"Roderick was born on the old homestead.
"While pioneer life was full of hardships for the elders
it was full of joy for the youngsters. Looking back over our
childhood, it seems like a long day of playtime. We had
wonderful adventures in the woods about the place. We built
houses of round sticks of several stories for our dolls, which
often were sticks themselves, or at best 'rag dolls'. My first
china doll was given me by a neighbor, Mrs. Harn, whose
little girl had died. It was a precious possession, but never
so dearly loved as my rag babies.
"The first definite childhood remembrance I have is the
ileath of my sister, Kate, in 1871. I remembered someone
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 311
carrying me through the room, and a few years ago ]Mrs.
Mills told me that it was she who lifted me up for a last
look at my sister's face.
"Though the real pioneer days were past when we came
to Thurston County, the pioneer spirit still throve, and a
family in trouble as we were with sickness and other hardships
incident to making a living in a new place, found sympathizing
neighbors as far away as South Union.
"My sisters, Kate and Meda, are remembered by many
pioneers. Meda, who died four years later, had gone back
to the home of our oldest sister, Belle, hoping the change might
benefit her health. She failed to regain her health, however,
by this change and we never saw her again.
"Adjoining our farm was that of the Dittman's. ]\Irs.
Dittman spoke nothing but German and my mother and she
found much comfort in being able to talk in their mother
tongue. Our next nearest neighbors were the Helsers, and
all old settlers remember the time-honored joke on the man in
search of an introduction at a dance in Olympia when I\Ir.
Helser was one of the floor committee. The gentleman asked
for an introduction to a certain lady and was hurriedly told
to 'Go to Helser'. A fight was only averted by an explanation.
"Mr. Benj. Gordon's place on Bush Prairie was always
a joy to me. I know every nick of the orchard, and Mr.
Gordon alway treated me to big sticks of cinnamon bark.
"Jesse Ferguson's farm was another place I loved to go.
At threshing time my mother always helped the Ferguson
girls cook for the threshers. Work was traded in these days
and at log rolling time on our place the neighbors helped my
mother. One of the sorrows of youth, that is still a regret,
was a wonderful dinner I could not eat because of sickness,
when there was a log rolling bee at our place.
"My father's death in 1875 was a cruel blow to my mother
and to us all. He was such a buoyant, hopeful disposition,
that hardships and discouragement that would have crushed
many men, only stimulated him to greater effort. But his
l^hysique was never strong, and the extremely hard work
clearing a place and logging it, too, broke him down and he
died in the prime of life.
"On the shoulders of tlie older children descended the
312 THURSTON COUNTY
burden of the support of the family. JMy brother, Oliver,
left school and went to work, and to him we owe more than
we can ever repay. He was my mother's stay and comfort
till her death in 1881 at the early age of 48.
"With mj^ mother's German and my father's New England
ancestry, it is small wonder that the every nerve was strained
that the children should have as good an education as the
times permitted. Consequently during all these years, with
few exceptions, we moved into Tumwater every winter for
the term of school, usually six months, and out to 'the place'
as we always called it, in the spring in time for the usual
spring work on the farm. I think my father went back and
forth during the day to go on with the dairy.
"During these winter sojourns much Tumwater history
vras fixed in my mind and the names of many old families
were household words.
. "When we first came to Tumwater the Crosby, Biles,
Ostranderand many others families were there. We lived one
winter in the Brewer place, upstairs. This was later known
as the Cameron place and was a familiar landmark for many
years. Later we lived in a part of the down-stairs, and it
was here my father died. Directly opposite the place lived
the Dudley Barnes'. Linre Barnes, now of Seattle, and I.
being near the same age became great friends. The Shattucks
lived next door and beyond them the Scotts, across the street
I think the Bakers lived, and also I think the Lees. Mrs.
Lee taught in Tumwater. The S. K. Taylors also lived here —
the Coopers further down, near the bay; the Cornels, Hugh,
Joe and John ; the Cambys ; the Ira and Sam Wards.
"The Crosbys had the historical mill and a large store.
George Biles also had a large store and Mrs. Biles tells me
Olympia people traded in Tumwater to a great extent.
"Dr. Ostrander lived in Tumwater then, as did also the
Eastman family. Mr. Rice, whose son, Elmore, afterwards
achieved distinction as a violinist, was living there then. On
the hill was the Barnes place — quite a pretentious place at
that time.
"The school house on the hill, near the site of the present
building, was a small one-room affair and to this day I re-
member my first appearance there. I was in deadly fear
of the teacher, who taught with the rod ever in his hand.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 313
Later school was held in the T. L. A. Hall, which is still stand-
ing, a monument to the energy of the residents who organized
the society and built the hall. This Tumwater Literary
Association Avas a flourishing society for many years. They
gathered together quite a library, and had very interesting
sessions. In this hall dances were held for many years.
"School was held in the lower floor and once when some
of the older boys had planned to eject the teacher, during
the scuffle which followed my sister, Etta, now Mrs. Gelbach
of Spokane, put all we children out of the window and then
clambered after us, whither most of the school followed.
School in those days never lacked for excitement. Kate Ward
(Mrs. Knapp), Fannie and Florence Ostrander (Mrs. IMoore
and Mrs. Crosby), Fannie Crosby (Mrs. Ostrander), and many
others probably remember that day as vividly as I do.
''Across the bay was an Indian village and whenever there
were rumors of war we children used to terrify ourselves
with imagining that these Indians would capture us. The
old squaws with their baskets of olalies, or of oysters, clams
or fish hanging over their backs suspended from a broad band
across the forehead, were familiar sights to our youthful eyes.
The site of this village has long been overgrown with small
trees and underbrush.
"]\Iany names throng my memory as I think over those
days which were spent in Tumwater, but as they are probably
all mentioned in other reminiscences I will omit them, but if
a complete list could be compiled of all who have lived in
Tumwater, many well known names would be there.
"One beautiful, solemn custom was followed in Tumwater
until the early '80's. This was the tolling the age of one
who had just taken leave of this life. The first stroke of
the bell sent a hush of sympathy over the town, and the
close, friendly life then made all well acquainted with all that
was happening so the people knew who had gone to rest.
Almost the last for Avhom the bell tolled was our mother. This
custom in a small community seemed a beautiful one to me
and as long as Grandfather Biles, as he was universally called,
lived and was well enough to attend to outside matters, this
custom and another was kept up. The other custom was the
community Christmas tree held every Christmas Eve at the
little church on the hill. This church, built first as a union
314 THURSTON COUNTY
church, was afterwards absorbed by the IMethodist Church and
as I think still of that denomination. Mr. Biles was for many
years Superintendent of the Sunday School and the mainstay
of the church.
"With but two or three exceptions not even a descendant
of any of those pioneers live now at Tumwater.
"The old place, on which we lived only long enough for
my mother to prove up after my father's death, has remained
intact for thirty years, but not occupied.
"]\rr. Gelbach, while in a reminiscent mood during his
long illness in 1914, told many interesting things of early
days and Mrs. Gelbach has transcribed the following, which
vrill interest many pioneers :
"In April 1870 there embarked on the Steamer Ajax.
clearing from San Francisco for Portland, Oregon, a group
of men who became for manj- years identified with the for-
tunes of Thurston County.
"The first in importance was Mr. Saloman, who bore an
appointment from President U. S. Grant as Governor of the
Territory of Washington ; second IMajor Hayden, who came
as Internal Revenue Collector.; Mr. B. B. Tuttle, a deputy
Revenue Collector, and Mr. R. G. O'Brien, who served as
Secretary to Major Hayden.
"Among the non-officials were Mr. Phillip Hiltz, Mr.
Stuth, bringing his bride from Germany, and Mr. George Gel-
bach. ]Mr. Gelbach started West with the intention of settling
in Portland, Oregon, but was persuaded by the Olympia party
to continue his journey to Puget Sound.
"Major Hayden, Mr. Tuttle and ]Mr. O'Brien were gifted
with fine voices and formed a trio whose singing gave great
pleasure to the passengers.
"On arriving at Portland many honors were paid to the
new Washington Governor, in which the whole Olympia party
shared. Carriages drawn by four horses were provided for
a trip to Hillsborough where Mr. Scott, father of the famous
Oregonian editor, and no less famous suffragist, Abigail Scott
Duniway, kept an inn. A boutiful old-time feast was spread
for the guests. Several days were spent in Portland waiting
for the arrival of the Steamer California to take the passengers
over the bar and through the Straits to Puget Sound.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 315
"Amongst the freight loaded in Portland was 1,000 bushels
of wheat billed to Mr. Nelson Barnes for his mill at Turawater.
When approaching the bar on the outward voyage a siorni
threatened and the Captain ordered all passengers inside the
cabins and everything was made fast for heavy seas. The
order was obeyed by all except Mr. Gelbach, who preferred
to take his chances outside. The decks were twice washed
by huge waves, but he clung to ropes for dear life and escaped
being washed overboard. When quiet waters were reached
the Captain was surprised to find him still aboard, a wetter
and a wiser man.
"When the little hamlet of Seattle was reached the steamer
lay by to enable the inhabitants to entertain their Governor.
Chief on the program was a dance, which was greatly enjoyed
by the steamer's passengers.
"On the sixth day of May, 1870, when the California
neared the head of Puget Sound, the little group of men stood
on her deck eagerly gazing for a glimpse of their new home
G-overnor Saloman, Major Hayden and ]\Ir. Ililtz had served
in the Civil War, but as the close of that event was but five
years in the past they were still young men. The remainder
of the party were in their early twenties. When the steamer
rounded Doffelmeyers Point, Olympia lay revealed under the
morning sun, in all the greenery and bloom of IMay, a beau-
tiful and welcome sight, and it was well that the young and
hopeful company could not read beneath this smiling welcome
that Thurston County held no great fortune nor signal honor
for any of its members.. As they drew nearer ]Mr. Hiltz ex-
claimed enthusiastically, 'That is the place,' and he remained
true to the opinion, living in Olympia for the remainder ot
his life; as did IMr. Stuth also, who probably of all the partv
came best equipped fiiiancially. lie met business misfortune
early in his Olympia career from which he never recovered.
Governor Saloman made his home in Olympia till his successoi
was appointed and later died in San Francisco. IMr. Tuttlt
went to Portland, Oregon, where he died a few years ago.
Major Hayden, who was joined by his family, lived in Olympia
for many years, removing later to Seattle where his death
occurred. Mr. O'Brien occupied the office of Clerk of tht
Supreme Court for a number of years, later organizing the
State National Guards, in which he was deeply interested.
316 THURSTON COUNTY
After losing the command of the State Militia he went to
California, where he lived nntil his death, which occnrrea
recently. He is remembered as the father of the IMilitia.
"Mr. Gelbach cast his lot with the little village of Tum-
water, where he maintained a continuous residence for 27
years. He built a flouring mill there, and conducted a success-
ful business until the panic of 1893 relieved him with many
others, of future business cares. He then served four years
as County Treasurer. Mr. Gelbach now resides in Spokane,
the only living member of the little party that so gaily steamed
into Olympia Harbor 44 years ago.
"In connection with the present high cost of maintenance
of the state, ]Mr. Gelbach recalls an incident of Territorial days
which makes interesting reading now that the taxpayers are
called upon to foot the enormous bills for the state's expenses.
"Governor Saloman oecMpied an office over George
Barnes' bank, an adjoining room being used by the Secretary
of State. One day when ]\Ir. Gelbach was in the office
the executive, Secretary Nick Owings and Auditor T. M. Reed
entered into a discussion concerning the cost of maintaining
the Territory for the ensuing year. It was the general con-
census of opinion that $35,000 would be amply sufficient."
DAVID T. DREWRY
Living in peace, contentment and plenty on the magnifi-
cent farm where they have made their home for the past fifty
odd years, was found Mr. and Mrs. David T. Drewry when
the compiler was on the quest of genuine pioneers, as surely
this venerable couple could be so designated as IMr. Drewry
arrived in the year 1853 and his wife probably a couple of
years later, the memories of the two were a little vague and
indistinct in regard to exact dates, but they both knew they
came here while the entire country was all but an unbroken
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 317
wilderness and through their yonthful pluck and energy they
certainly performed well their share in making at least their
own holdings bloom and flourish.
Well kept fields reaching for long stretches along the
county road, a fine garden spot, flowers, and thoroughly
modern farm house are there today as witnesses of the thrift
and industry of the couple^ — young and in the freshness of
youth when their life was started on the farm a half century
ago, and now as the shadows of life's evening approach, wait-
ing with cheerfulness and serenity for the night to fall ; happy
in their children, grandchildren, and with a mutual love and
dependence upon each other that was very touching to witness.
D. T. Drewry came to this country as the driver of one
of Col. Wm. Cock's ox teams from their old home in Missouri,
where his bo^^hood had been spent, although the young man
was a native of Kentucky but having been left an orphan at
a very earl.y age, had been adopted by an uncle living in Mis-
souri. The lad w^as but seventeen years of age when the trip
was started and although the journey was made in the regula-
tion way of travl in those days — over the old Oregon trail with
ox teams. Col. Cock with his family was so well equipped for
the trip, his oxen were so w^ell fed and cared for that only
ninety traveling days were consumed from the time the start
was made from ]\Iissouri till the Willamette valley was reached
— an unusually short time in those days. They had no sick-
ness, no trouble with the Indians and no particular disasters
to delay them from reaching their destination.
After spending the winter in the Willamette valley, Col.
Cock decided to come on to Puget Sound, and indeed, this
point had been where he had originally intended reaching
when he made up his mind to emigrate. All places in the
West looked alike to the young David so he came along with
his friends. Col. Cock opened and, for several years, was
proprietor of the historic hotel knoAvn as the Pacific House and
Drewry assisted him in the work about the place for several
years.
When the Indian war of 1855-56 broke out Drewry was
made wagon master of a train of thirty wagons chartered by
the government to haul supplies from the Cowlitz landing to
the Puyallup valley, where the troops were encamped. Al-
318 THURSTON COUNTY
though the young man was never in an actual engagement
Avith the enemy his train was at one time so close to the White
River battle that the men could distinctly hear the reports of
the guns and shouts of the men. The teamsters corralled their
Avagons and waited for some time, expecting an attack, but
they were not molested.
Mr. Drewry recalls being at one time a schoolmate of
John IMiller Murphy, with a Mr. Cornelius as their teacher.
"They don't have such teachers now," said the old man
as he began musing over those vanished days, "and they don't
have as good times as they used to either. In those days we
vrere all like one big family, dancing on the slightest provo-
cation, and how we did use to dance — none of your silly jigs
and whirlings that the young folks seem to think is the thing
now. We boys were glad to pay $5 a ticket to a dance. We
took our best girls and danced quadrilles, polkas and waltzes
all the afternoon and all night. Dances were dances in those,
days, too, with a big supper of ham sandwiches, home-made
cakes and pies and gallons of coffee thrown in at midnight.
"When I first came to Olympia the white women I can
remember were Sarah Yantis, Jerusha Hays, Mrs. Scott, Char-
h)tte and L-ucy Barnes, Mrs. Cock and her three daughters,
Carrie, Annie and Roxie, and ]\Irs. George Barnes. There may
have been a fcAv others but my memory fails me."
IMrs. Drewry, when but a young girl of fourteen years
of age, arrived in Olympia with her parents from her home
in New York City. Their trip was by way of the Isthmus and
they were among the passengers on the first train connecting
the Atlantic and Pacific over the route of the now Panama
Canal. They had the hardship of having to take their choice
of walking or riding a mule over a considerable gap in the
road which was considered unsafe for the little cars to cross
«!wing to the settling of the earth under the ties.
A . brother of Emaline Weed, as ]\Irs. Drewry was then
known, Charles Weed, had preceded his family to Puget Sound
and wrote back to his mother, urging her to join him in this
land of golden opportunities. His advise to his mother, while
good in the main, v\'as faulty in the respect that he told her
not to bother to bring any furniture or supplies with her on
the long trip as everything could be procured here. Mrs.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 319
Weed followed her son's advise, but upon her arrival in
Olymjiia discovered that what women and girls considered ab-
solute necessaries a young man accustomed to a frontier life
had grown to regard as perfectly dispensible luxuries. Bed-
ding, pillows, cooking utensils and every kind of conveniences
were impossible to buy. Mrs. Weed was delighted to procure
a few^ bird's feathers from an Indian squaw w^iich she enclosed
in some articles of white clothing to make their first pillows.
The first apples the family could obtain were given them by
I\Ir. George Bush, who by that time had a fine orchard in
bearing. The Bush and Drewr.y families in latter years be-
came neighbors and firm friends, as the Weed family bought
a piece of land on the Des Chutes river near the Bush place
and lived there till the marriage of Emaline to young Drewer\
in 1858.
Soon after their marriage, Mr. and Mrs. Drew^ry bought
the place on which they still live, but which v\^as originalbv
the Jones homestead. Here their children were born and from
there Avere carried forth three of their children, never to re-
turn, Harvey, Carrie and Frederick, their baby.
Although Carrie and Frederick w^ere taken while still of
a tender age, the death of their son, Harvey, in 1911, was a
crushing blow to the parents, now growing old and dependent
upon their children for love and care. He was a young man.
full of life and vigor, with a wife and children to cherish and
protect, when he met with an instantaneous death while v/ork-
ing in the field.
Of the remaining sons, the eldest. Almond, has a hand-
some country home within a few rods from the old home and
the youngest son, Edward V., with his family, lives with his
parents in order to give the old couple the care and atten-
tion they need and which only loving hands can give them
as the wife and mother has lost the sight of her eyes and is
entirely blind. Her husband and children have surrounded her
with every comfort and convenience and take delight in fill-
ing the remaining days with all the pleasure and happiness
within their power to bestow.
32C THURSTON COUNTY
THE BUSH FAMILY
Clinging like the last withered leaf on the tree, only wait-
ing for the passing breeze to waft him to join his parents and
five brothers lives Lewis N. Bush, the youngest son of that
liardiest argonaut of them all, George Bush and his faithful
wife, Isabella James Bush.
The Bush family arrived in what is now known as Thurs-
ton County as early as 18-15, while this section was an un-
broken wilderness and with their party consisting of about
thirty people were the very first settlers north of the Co-
lumbia River.
The original families consisted of the Bush family, father,
mother and five sons, William 0., Joseph T., Eeilly B., Henr>
Sanford and Jackson J. ; Mr. and Mrs. M. Simmons with theii
four sons, Mr. and Mrs. McAllister with their son and two
daughters; David and i\rrs. Talitha Kindred and their son
John K. ; the Jones family, consisting of father and mothei
and sons Lewis and ]\Iorris and daughter, Elizabeth and twc
!-:ing!e men, Samuel Crockett and Jesse Ferguson.
When the start was made from the old home in Missouri
the elder Bush had laid in a bountiful stock of supplies,
enough to last him and his own family for several years ol
frontier life, but all his associates had not been so well
equipped and even before the last and final stop was made
there was a shortage of necessities among several ol
the emigrant families. Bush, with the generosity and kind
heartedness which was his most marked characteristic, divided
Avith the less fortunate, even to the subsequent deprivation ot
his own family.
Keaching Puget Sound, the families settled on what ha&
ever since been known as Bush Prairie, and took up donatior.
claims of 640 acres to a family. Lewis Bush enjoys the dis
tuiction of being the only man living on an original donatior,
claim west of the mountains. In every other instance the orig
inal owners of claims have parted with them, but the Bush
claims has descended in an unbroken line frt/m the father
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 321
George Bush, to the youngest son and to a grandson, ]\[r
John S. Bush, son of W. 0. Bush.
The first winter spent on Puget Sound was one to try
mens' souls, there was absolutely nothing in the way of pro-
visions to be bought for love or money. It is true the Hudson
Bay Company had a post on the Nesqually with Dr. Tolmie
manager, but already there was a feeling of jealousy spring-
ing up in the minds of the managers of the company, over the
rapidly increasing number of emigrants coming to share the
ranges and preempt the fertile land. The agents were forbid-
den to extend aid to the settlers, so although Dr. Tolmie wa^.
inclined to feel kindly towards the newcomers, he was for
bidden to openly sell them the necessaries of life.
Clams, salmon, game and oysters were the substantiak
of diet eked out, with a little wheat and dried peas, which
still remained of the stores. The settlers learned to eat with
relish the roots of ferns which they used as green stuff. Flour
there was none until the Simmons mill was finished in New-
market.
The men of the new settlement went right to work l)uild-
ing cabins for shelter for their families against the winter
weather, which Avas about to close in on them. The cabins
were covered with split shakes and the floors were of pun-
cheon, while the few simple articles of furniture were manu-
factured from the cedar logs lying in profusion on the ground.
IMr. Bush, shortly after his arrival, set out fruit and shade
trees, the seeds of which he had brought Math him from his
old home. Manj^ of these trees grew and flourished and
stand to this day, noble monuments to the hardy old pioneer
George Bush died in 1863 and his wife a couple of years
later. After their deaths the homestead passed into the hands
of his three sons, W. 0., J. T.. and H. S. Bush. In time W
0. Bush married and became the father of the lady who is
now Mrs. George Gaston and John Bush. Lewis Bush, in
speaking of his earlier experiences on the old homestead, said :
"Yes, those were hard times. We all had to scramble
for enough to eat. There was simply nothing we could buy
from any market for several years. I remember one summer
day an old squaw came to our house with something to eat.
which she wanted to sell. ^Mother tried to dicker with her lint
322 THURSTON COUNTY
she onl.y wanted clothes. Jloney was of no use to her. Shf
wanted a shirt for one of her papooses. Now, we had been
away from home a long- time and clothing was getting scarce
but mother wanted whatever it was the squaAv had S3 badly
that she stripped the shirt off of my brother Sanford's back
and gave it to the siwash.
"I was born on the homestead after the folks reached
Bush Prairie, so I cannot remember as well as could my
brothers about the Indian war. I know we were all anxious
and worried for several months and when the first scare was
on and the red skins had killed McAllister and Northcraft
father moved his family into the Fort at Tumwater for a
while. But as time went on he was anxious to get back to his
place, as were the other settlers of our neighborhood, so they
went to work and built a fort of their own on father's farm.
"Saplings probably fourteen feet long Vv'ere cut from the
woods and a trench dug several feet deep. In this trench
was set upright the saplings in a double roAv clear around the
enclosure. This made a high wall which was practically bullet
proof. Inside this enclosure w^ere the cabins of the settlers —
each by themselves. We were comfortable enough and live5
that way for several months. This fort was ahvays knowr
as Bushs' fort.
"I was a big lad, probably twelve years old, before I had
my first pair of shoes. There were none to be had in all the
country, so I was forced to go barefoot, not that I considered
that any hardship, for I was used to it and only wanted shoes
to put on style with. Well, when the first sailing vessel came
into harbor at Olympia. father went on board to see what of
the cargo he could buy. There was a whole box of shoes of
all sizes among the articles father bought. Of course, the
elders had first pick at the shoes and when I had a turn at
the box there was only one pair of No. 10s left. They would
have been big enough for any large man but I was only toe
tickled to get them and wore the shoes with great pride or
Sundays and special occasions. Those shoes lasted me foi
years.
"Mother made friends with Dr. Tolmie and it was through
him that she got her first start in poultry and sheep. She had
traded for a few hens from a French familv who were con
I'lONEER REMINISCENCES 323
neetecl with the Hudson Bay Company, and -when one of thesf
hens showed her willingness, to set, mother got a setting of
tnrkey eggs from Dr. Tolmie. She was very successful with
this hatching and by coddling those young turks soon had a
nice flock. Dr. Tolmie had not been so lucky with his turkey?
so he told mother he would trade her a fine ewe for everv
turkey she would let him have. She was glad to do so anc'
in that way she got the first start of the large flock of sheep
which Avas one of the greatest sources of profit in a fcAv years.
From Dr. Tolmie also we got the first start of hogs. Well, sr
we lived for years, always getting ahead a little and I am glac
to say. always having a little to share with our poorer neigh
bors. Neither father nor mother could bear to deny anyone
v\'ho applied to them for assistance."
Lewis Bush might have gone on and related how the
Bushs, father and sons were always willing and ready to ex-
tend a helping hand to the settlers who soon began to pour
into the country. The Bush farm was the stopping place be-
tween the settlements of Olympia and New Market and the
Cowlitz landing and there are still men and women living
who can recall being entertained at this home. Night or day
the Bushs kept open house to all comers — no one was turned
away without being fed and sheltered and in many cases their
wagons carried substantial gifts of fruit, garden truck and
grain from ^Ir. Bush's abundant stores.
Mr. George H. Himes relates a story about the elder Bush
which is given here as being characteristic of the open handed
generosity of not only himself but his six sons as well. One
year there was a great scarcity of grain. The yield, owing to
unfavorable conditions, was unusually small. Seattle by this
time was quite a town and speculators from that place came to
Mr. Bush and offered him an almost fabulous price for all his
harvest. They were astounded when their offer was refused,
and were very chagrined over their failure to corner the out-
put of grain. They asked ]\Ir. Bush what he intended do-
ing with his surplus.
"I'll just keep my grain to let my n('iglil)ors who have
had failures have enough to live on and for seeding their
fields in the spring. They have no money to pay your fancy
324
THURSTON COUNTY
prices and I don't intend to see them want for anything in
my power to provide them with."
With the flight of years the Bush homestead developed
into a model farm nnder the skillful management of W. 0.
Bush, who took great pride in raising and preparing for ex-
hibition samples of the grain and produce grown on his place.
Exhibits were made at the World's fairs of Philadelphia, Chi-
cago and Buffalo, which attracted general attention and won
for Bush medals and diplomas from all three fairs. These
exhibits were of inestimable value in advertising the resources
of the Territory of Washington and besides the medals and
diplomas awarded IMr. Bush personally the County of Thurs-
ton and the Territory and State of Washington were also
awarded medals for the best exhibit of grains made by an>
section of the entire United States. In the planting, selection
and arranging of the specimens IMr. Bush was assisted by hi*'
young daughter, Belle, who took as great an interest and
pride in the exhibit as did her father. That young girl is no\%
Mrs. George Gaston of Olyrapia.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 325
CAPTAIN SAMUEL WILLEY
In reviewing the list of men who have been most promi-
nently identified with the development of Thnrston County
business it was considered appropriate to mention the men
who organized what has for many years been known as the
iS. Willey Navigation Company.
Although the Willeys', father and sons, were not the first
men to venture their fortunes in water craft plying between
Olympia and down Sound points, their steamers ^lultnomah
and City of Aberdeen were so well known on Puget Sound
that they are actually a part of the history of Thurston
County.
Captain Samuel Willey was one of the gold seekers in
California as early as 1859, leaving his family in their home
in Cherryfield, Maine, while he pursued the search of the
Golden Fleece. After having enjoyed a fair measure of succes5>
from mining in Syskiyou County, Mr. Willey decided to re
turn to the East again. He remained with his family until
1867 when he came out West again, this time settling in Mason
County. The family were then sent for and the fortunes of
the Willeys became identified with this section of the country
lie engaged in lumbering during the first few years of his
Washington residence, but when, in 1880, his son, Lafayette,
P. L., and George, organized the S. Willey Navigation Com
pany the elder Willey removed to Olympia and built his
comfortable home on Eighth street, where he died in the
year 1897.
The Willey family consisted of the father and mother
three brothers and a sister. Shortly after their arrival here
the brothers took the contract for carrying the mail between
Olympia and Oakland, which was then the county seat of
Mason County. For two years the brothers carried the mail
twenty-five miles in a row boat and then over a country road
for a further twelve miles, until finally they felt justified in
investing in a tiny steamer, the Hornet. This gave place within
a short time to the Susie, which in turn was replaced by the
326 THURSTON COUNTY
AVilley. This latter steamer was quite a good-sized craft and
was put on the run between Olympia and Shelton. In 1889
the Willeys purchased the Multnomah and a little later the
City of Aberdeen and put them on the run between this citj
and Seattle, the elder brothers becoming Captains of the boats
The sister of the Willey brothers, Lucretia, was an
especially pretty and charming young girl and Avas an un-
disputed belle of ]\Iason County up to the time of her marriage
to Mr. Leighton and came to Olympia to make her home. Sht
became the mother of two children, Charles Leighton of Seattle
and her daughter, Bertha. IMrs. Leighton died at the home of
the latter in Olympia in 1911.
ELISHA NELSON SARJENT
When on August 28, 191-1:, Elisha X. Sarjent passed ovei
the Great Divide, there disappeared one who had been a
familiar landmark in Thurston County for the past 65 years —
one who had been identified with the development of thii>
section of "Washington from earliest pioneer days.
Elisha Sarjent was gathered to his fathers after a lift
rich in experiences such as are encountered by but few — nont
in these later days. Coming to Puget Sound in the wintei
of 1849-50 he at once identified himself with the frontier life
of the region he had selected for his future home. Mr. Sarjent
lived to the ripe old age of eighty-seven years and at the
funeral his friend of many years. Hon. Allen Wier, pronounced
the following heartfelt eulogy :
"Elisha Nelson Sarjent Avas born September 8, 1827, ir
Fountain County, Indiana. In 1849 he left Indiana on his
way to the gold fields of California. While crossing the
plains he was lost for fourteen days before he got back to hi«
train. lie did not remain in California long, but purshed his
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 327
way north and west and arrived at Puget Sound on a sailing
vessel during the winter of 1849-50, thus identifying himsell
with the original and adventurous gold seekers commonly
known as '4ners.' He helped to build the first house in
Olympia, thus his identity as one of the real argonauts of
Thurston County is established.
"Among his experiences in the then unknown wilds of the
great Northwest, was being shipwrecked in Queen Charlotte
Sound, among the Northern Indians, in the winter of 1851-52.
vv'hen he and others were captured and held among hostile
savages during a period of fifty-three days. Among his com.-
panions was John Thornton, a respected old-time citizen and
resident of Clallam County, in this State.
"In 1853 Mr. Sarjent went out from the Puget Sound
basin across the Cascade ^Mountains and met the incoming
immigrant train and piloted the new comers through the
Natchez Pass into Pierce County. This was the first influx
of settlers coming by way of the Natchez Pass. Among those
coming at that time were members of the Himes family who
settled in Olympia, and the family of Mrs. Frasier, who was
reported as coming into this country riding on the back
of an ox.
"Mr. Sarjent saw valiant service in the Indian war of
1855-56, in which he was a First Lieutenant of Volunteers
"He took a donation claim near Grand ]\Iound, in Thurs-
ton County, where his house has stood for something like
sixty-five years, and where he was married more than fifty-
four years ago. His wife, who was Miss Lucretia Mounts,
has been by his side during these years, a faithful helpmeet
through good and evil report. Their two sons, Fred Sarjent
and Asher Sarjent, with their families were among the sorrow-
ing mourners at the funeral.
"Mr. Sarjent was one of the most modest of men, seldom
speaking of these trying times that tested the courage and
manhood of those who had to stand guard at block house
defenses and protect the women and children from hostile
attack. Nevertheless, his duty was always cpiietly performed,
and with credit to himself. No one ever heard of a dishonor-
able act on his part, and a significant comment by one of his
nearest neighbors was that during an intimate acquaintance
of something like sixty years, when line fences were often
328 THURSTON COUNTY
out of repair and stock became frequently mixed up, nothing
even remotely resembling* a quarrel ever occurred.
''Could anj^thing more fully attest the sterling worth of
the hardy manhood and womanhood of our honored pioneers?
"May their shadows never be less, and the worthy ex-
ample thus shown be followed by later comers.
"Nelson Sarjent has gone to his reward. Like a sheaf
of fully ripened grain, he has been gathered. His example
has been one of duty fully performed. His place among the
army of worthy citizens who demonstrated their right in the
front rank of worthy pioneers of this great Northwest has
passed beyond question.
"On Fame's eternal camping ground
Their silent tents are spread.
While glory guard with solemn round
Their bivouac of the dead."
MR. P. D. MOORE
Hale, clear-minded, genial and active with a life of almost
ninety years stretching out behind him, Mr. P. D. Moore is
a remarkable example of the staunch timber that went to-
wards the making of the men and women of the past century.
When this grand old-young man was asked to contribute
some of his reminiscences of early days on Puget Sound, of
which he was in a position to recall many, owing to his long
residence here and the many stirring events of which he was
a participant, Mr. Moore said:
"It is over fifty years since I first came t') Olympia and
on my arrival I was pleasantly surprised to find not only a
charming climate and magnificent scenery but its people
educated, cultured, enterprising and extremely hospitable and
neighborly, reminding me of a New England town. Of cours*^
the country was new and the town young, but the people were
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 32?
as one family, helpful, generous and sociable. Whether it b*^
a funeral or a dance everybody was there. IMoney was plenti-
ful and prices of products and goods were high, but there were
no croakers or kickers. In 1864 Blockhouse Smith sold to
Charlie Williams five tons of butter at 55 cents a pound. Th'^
same year the only 4th of July celebration on Puget Sound wa"
at Olympia when seventeen steamers brought crowds and it
was estimated that between four and five thousand peopk
assmbied at the Capital grounds to do honor to the Nation's
birthday. Governor Pickering presided. On Christmas day.
the only Christmas tree was in the hall of the AVashington
hotel (now the NeAv England Hotel), but there were presents
en that tree of a total value of over $2,500 and everybod\
was there.
''The principal merchants of Olympia when I first came
here were Chas. E. Williams, Edmund Sylvester, L. Bettman
George Barnes, I. Lichtner and I. Harris. But we also had
the "Busy B's" — Bush, Barnes, Biles, Billings, Blankenship.
Brown, Bettman, Bigelow and Beatty. They have all passed
to the "Great Beyond", except Mr. Beatty, who still remains
with us in the enjoyment of a ripe old age.
"In 1863 I was appointed by President Lincoln, Collector
of Internal Revenue for Washington and Idaho, and then 1
brought my family from New Jersey, and on the Bark
Naramisie they were sixty-three days coming from San Fran-
cisco to Puget Sound, breaking the record for time in coming
from San Francisco.
"In- those early days — the '60s — there were many ex-
citing and interesting events. In the session of the Legislature
in 1868 the House of Representatives elected me its Chaplain,
the firxt instance of a free-thinking Quaker being elected to
that office. At the same session Miss Peebles, now Mrs. Mack-
intosh, of Seattle, and mother of Judge Mackintosh, was
elected Enrolling and Engrosing Clerk, being the first woman
elected to serve in a legislative body in the history of the world.
I may add she done her work so promptly and ably that she
received the unanimous commendation of the House of Rep-
resentatives.
"At a session of the Legislature, Chas. Bradshaw was
elected President of the Council, hut as he did not act to suit
330 THURSTON COUNTY
H. K. Striive, also a member of the Counoil, he was deposed
from the Presidency by Struve's vote, whereupon Striive, by
his own vote, made himself President of the Council. This
procedure caused much excitement in Olympia and an indigna-
tion meeting, largely attended, was held, at which Garfield and
others scored Struve severely. Struve was for a long time Secre-
tary of the Territory, during which time and when he was a
member of the Legislature, he was not a citizen, never having
been naturalized, and moreover he was a deserter from the
Army, liable to be caught and shot. Some cheek and some nerve
that! But it must be admitted, nevertheless, he was a very
able and useful man. In 1864 or 65, I obtained from the East
the first Early Rose potatoes, paying $2.00 a pound for them,
and I also introduced the first asparagus at the same time,
both being the first introduced in the Pacific Northwest, and
very successfully cultivated in my garden at Main and Four-
teenth Streets, where there has recently been erected a
large apartment house.
"I took the U. S. Census in 1870 for Thurston and Lewis
Counties, and at that time Olympia was the largest town or
city in the Territory, having a population of 1,232, and nearly
a hundred more than Seattle. In taking the census in Lewis
County I came across Marcel Bernier, born in 1820 of French
Canadian parents at Fort Colville, being the first white child
born in the Commonwealth of Washington. In 1880 I took
the U. S. Census in Chehalis County, and where Aberdeen
is now, I found only Sam Benn and family, and at Hoquiam
only two families — Ed. Campbell and family, and ]\Ir. Karr
and family. Some growth at these two places since then !
"Olympia had a prominent character in the person of
Mrs. Rebecca Howard, proprietor of the principal hotel — the
Pacific House, at the corner of Third and Main Streets. She
was a handsome colored woman from Boston, Mass., and a
very enterprising, popular and successful business woman.
Some addressed her as Aunt Becky, instead of ]\Irs. Howard,
but she resented it. On one occasion a somewhat eminent man
addressed her as Aunt Becky and she promptly inquired of
him whether she was his father's or his mother's sister.
"When the news of President Lincoln's assassination was
received in Olympia, the Democratic party was holding its
Territorial Convention here. INIajor Haller Avas a delegate
PIONEER REMINISCENCES • 331
and was in my office when the word came. He was overcome
with emotion and freely shed manly tears, and went to the
convention and proposed an adjournment without making a
nomination for Delegate to Congress, Avhieh nearly carried.
"I Avas a witness and participant in several very dramatic
events on Puget Sound in the early '60s— notably the capture
of the Custom House at Port Townsend in 1862, when the guns
of the Revenue Cutter, double-shotted were brought to bear
on the Custom House and notice given to surrender or at the
end of fifteen minutes the building would be shelled.
"Also the capture of the 'Shubrick' in the middle of the
Straits of Fuea, when an attempt was made to run into the
rebel service. The details of these and other events have an
historic interest which I hope to write out some time. But
you must now excuse me, as, although I am about 89 years
}oung, yet I am a busy man."
Mr. Moore w^as born in Rahway, New Jersey, and married
Miss Phoebe Earle in Newark of the same State. Ten children
were born to the couple, of w^hom only three still live : A.
Schooley, Janet S. and Lindley D. Of the remaining children,
two boys, Edward and Phillip, and a daughter, Ella D., died
before the family ventured their fortunes in the West. The
eldest daughter, Lida, became the wife of W. P. Winans, a
Walla Walla banker and capitalist, and became the mother
of three sons, Gilbert P., Phillip ]M. and Allen Lida, all making
their home in Walla Walla. Mrs. Winans died in San Fran-
cisco many years ago, but her memory is still cherished by
the pioneers of an early day of Thurston County. The chil-
dren who died in Olympia are Waldo G., Gerald and Edna
W., the latter having become ]\Irs. Eddings and the mother
of one daughter. Edna Earle Eddings. Mrs. Moore died in
Olympia on July 17, 1899, after a well spent life, during which
time she had liad the satisfaction of seeing her living children
all grown to maturity and comfortably settled in life. IMrs.
j\Ioore was a charter member of the Woman's Club of Olympia
and a leader in every good work for the benefit of mankind
and the uplift of society.
332 THURSTON COUNTY
CAPTAIN SAMUFL WING PERCIVAL
(By His Daughter, Georgiana Percival Ford.)
Captain Samuel Wing Percival of Hanover, Mass., had
i'ollowed the sea from a boy until the time of his marriage,
and had shown such aptitude and evinced so high a sense of
responsibility^ that he was made master, by the owners of
the vessel, on his third voyage. These voyages were to ports
on the Mediterrean Sea, Barcelona, Marseilles, Constantinople
and through the Black Sea to Odessa, also through the Baltic
Sea to St. Petersburg, and while these voyages were not lack-
ing in thrilling experiences, he brought his ship safely to port
each trip, and letters from the owners are preserved filled with
expressions of commendation and gratitude. These letters
show a high ideal, and abound with expressions that would
doubtless cause great surprise today, counseling the young
captain to hold the honorable name of the ship's owners above
dollars and cents, and voicing their full confidence in their
belief that he would never descend to a dishonorable transac-
tion for mere gain.
Mrs. Lurana Ware Percival made the trip from her home
in Plymouth, Mass., around Cape Horn, arriving at San Fran-
cisco May 5th, 1850. She embarked from New York on the
Clipper Brig ''Reindeer" and the trip was made in 153 sail-
ing days, the record trip to that date. The weather and other
conditions were favorable for ia successful and interesting
voyage, and she always spoke of the varied experiences of
that five months' journey with great pleasure.
She found San Francisco a small Mexican-Spanish town,
consisting of a row of adobe houses around the Plaza, a few
frame houses and many zinc houses and tents scattered over
vacant lots, reaching from Broadway street to Telegraph Hill.
She landed from the ship's boat on Montgomery street, the
bay extending to the street.
In November, 1850, she went with friends to Portland,
Oregon. A number of passengers were anxious to get into
the Territory before the time expired to secure 640 acres of
land. For this reason the Captain took his ship in to th<^
VmW \
JBf. ' ^ \
m^^^^
K
CAPT. AND MRS. S. W. PERCIVAI^
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 333
Umpqiia River, and landed these passengers and they walked
to Rosebv.rg. IJmpqua City consisted of two small zinc
houses, occupied by a few white men, who had taken claims
and were trading with the Indians, and a settlement of Indian
houses; these houses were boarded around the sides, the tops
covered with Indian mats. In a paper entitled "Personal
Feminiscences of Early Days," read before the Woman's Club
of Olympia, (from v.^hieh many of the incidents given are
gleaned) my mother says: "I had never seen such long and
wide boards, they were from three to four feet wide. Upon
inquiry I learned that the Indians burned the. tree instead of
cutting it down, split the cedar logs into boards by driving
ir wedges, then kept them over a slow fire until they were suffi-
ciently charred to be rubbed with smooth stones until they were
the required thickness and nicely polished." JMrs. Percival was
the first Avhite Avoman to step on shore at the mouth of the
IJmpqua River, and was a great curiosity to the natives, who
were most attentive to her, coming out to the ship in canoe?
the next day, with presents of huckleberries, which grew in
great abundance near the village, and when she was on shore,
liending down the bushes, w^hich were high,, that she might
pick the berries. The bay being land-locked with a dangerous
bar, the captain waited ten days for a fair w4nd to enable him
to cross in safety; during this time the weather was delight-
fully warm and those who wished to go were one day rowed
up the river about ten miles to a beautiful island, where coffee
was made and a picnic lunch served. Picnics and ripe huck-
leberries late in November were amazing facts to a young
woman from the New England states.
The Columbia River bar was reached late in the after-
noon and found to be very rough. No pilot responded to the
captain's signals, so he steered off coast for more sea room:
and it was well he did, for my mother records that they had.
1hat night, the hardest storm she ever experienced at sea. The
decks were washed of every thing movable, bulwarks stove
in, cargo shifted, so that the vessel lay over on one sid(>: the
sailors performed their duties with ropes fastened about their
waists; several seas Avashed entirely over the ship, forcing
water through the skylight into the cabin, where the passengers
sat speechless. The storm abated as morning dawned and the
entire day was given to righting the vessel, using the pumns
334 THURSTON COUNTY
nnd moving the cargo; thoy had drifted so far that two days
were required to return to the river.
Again failing to secure a pilot, the Captain determined
to run in without one, although it was his first trip to the
Columbia River. He crossed the bar safely and was soon an-
chored at Astoria. I again quote from the paper already men-
tioned : "When speaking of pioneer life on the Pacific Coast,
few^ ever mention the difficult and dangerous pioneer work
done bj^ sailing vessels and their crews; nearly every harbor
and river on the coast is l)arred except Puget Sound and it
was several years before there were steam tugs enough for
all these ports. Working a vessel up the river was a long and
tedious trip for sailors ; all things favorable, it took from a
week to ten days to reach Portland and had to be done by
kedging, and towing with row boats."
Portland was a small village, there were no cleared streets
and the townsite having been heavily timbered, huge stumps
breast high, were left standing, making it necessary to carry
a lantern or a candle after dark, and it was the custom for a
box of candles to be kept by the door, and the departing eve-
ning caller was handed a lighted candle, which he extinguished
and deposited in the box at the next house he entered.
There was but one house boasting a brick chimney, the
home of Captain Nathaniel Crosby (grandfather of Samuel
C. Woodruff and Ada Woodruff Anderson, author of "The
Heart of the Red Firs" and "The Strain of White," also
Charles A. Burr, Mrs. ]Maude Basse, and June Burr). The
brick for the chimney and other materials necessary for a
well-built house, had been shipped around Cape Horn, and
those who were privileged to enjoy the delightful hospitality
of that home were fortunate indeed. While in Portland a
trip was made in a rowboat to IMilwaukee, to be present at the
launching of the first steamer built in Oregon, the "Lot Whit-
comb." (On this occasion Mrs. Percival made the acquaint-
ance of Judge Matthew P. Deady). All were handsomely
entertained, at the residence of ^Ir. Lot Whiteomb, the founder
of the toAvu, and rowed down the river to Portland in the
evening. Another trip was one. made with saddle horses, De-
cember 31, 1850, to Oregon City, the largest village on the
Willamette. There were no roads and the party followed the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 335
rarrow Indian trails, one after the other, in true Indian style,
ferrying on scows pulled by ropes stretched across the river;
the hotel Avas very comfortable and my mother was happily
surprised to meet a young man there, who had come around
the Horn on the ship she had passage on. She also made the
acquaintance of Captain S. W. Percival, (who commanded
the schooner "Crescent City," also loading in Portland) Avhom
she afterward married in San Francisco, April, 3rd, 1851. The
next day the party returned to Portland, as they had come,
and all attended the New Year's ball in the evening. An-
other outing was a trip to Fort Vancouver. The Willamette
was ferried, a forest was traversed (now East Portland). On
the banks of the Columbia River men were found with very
large row boats to convey passengers to the other shore ; as
they returned, after crossing the river and taking the horses,
snow began to fall, thick and fast, and the trail was soon
obliterated. The party consulted and decided that, as the
horses were cold and hungry, they w^ould doubtless take the
shortest route home, and ceased to guide them. They emerged
from the forest before dark and the party received a warm
welcome and hot supper on the Brig ''Reindeer," where some
uneasiness had been felt as to their safety.
After his marriage my father purchased a large store on
Washington street, San Francisco, and commenced business,
occupying the stor.y above as a dwelling house, and my par-
ents were well settled by the first of May. On June 22, they
were burned out by the third great fire, wdiich consumd nearly
all the city. House, furniture, nearly all the contents of the
store were swept away, but the greater part of the clothing
was saved. They moved into an unfinished building on Mont-
gomery street and began business again.
In 1852 they went to Parks Bar, a good-sized mining town,
on the Yuba River. While there they buried their eldest
child, Lurana Curtis Percival, and at the end of the year, on
account of the prevalence of cholera, and the failure of the
mines that season, they returned to San Francisco and took
passage on the Barque Sarah Warren, Captain A. B. Gove,
deciding to begin life again in that part of the Northwest
which had so great an attraction for them. They arrived in
Olympia, January 1, 1853.
336 THURSTON COUNTY
]My mother was the sixth woman to settle in town. She
Avi'ites : "I found Llrs. Geo. Barnes, Jlrs. Simpson P. ]\Ioses,
wife of Collector of Customs; Mrs. C. H. Hale, I\Irs. Close, wife
of first Methodist minister, and JMrs. Fischer, (a widow^. Mrs.
Adam Wiley was living on a claim two miles down the bay.
At Tumwater were the Simmons, Crosby, Barnes and Kindred
families and Mr. and Mrs. R. M. Walker, also several families
on the prairies beside the Chambers and Hays. Our principal
amusement was horseback riding, so we were quite neighborly
v^'ith our prairie friends."
Again, I quote: ''We commenced housekeeping in one
large room, ran the stovepipe through the window, one corner
was kitchen, one bedroom, one store room, sitting room in
center. The trees had been felled from jMain street to the
water (on the west) as far as Sixth street, and from Fourth
street to the water (on the north). All along the beach were
Indian huts, and the whole beach was lined with canoes. The
Indian w^omen had all the work to do, and had been treated
like beasts so long that, for a time, it w^as thought to be use-
less to tr.y to teach them anything. Each family would take
an Indian boy and most of them were quick to learn. *****
For several years we were our own dress makers and milliners,
took care of each other when sick, and in fact, did all kinds
of work, even to making the most of our furniture. When a
few of the squaws learned to wash and iron it was a great
help to us; the well known 'Old Betsy' was one of the first
t) learn ; they preferred old clothes to money for their work
until they learned t) sew. During the year of 1853 many
families came, which gave us plenty of society." Record is
made of the delightful horseback parties, clam bakes, boat
rides and dances, and Mrs-. Percival says: "The only draw-
back to our pleasure, was the lenp-iii of time it took to hear
from our eastern friends. We had a steamer from San Fran-
cisco once each month, bringing our mails; sailing vessels
came, often bringing freight, passengers and news from San
Francisco." A sewing society was soon formed, and at the
lirst fair $500.00 was cleared, which sum was used to finish
off the second story of the school house and furnish it with
seats, two chairs, a table and lamps, that the clergymen of
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 337
any denomination might hold divine iservieo. The Methodists
were the first to build a ehnrch.
In 1855 my mother visited her relatives in [Massachusetts.
She made this trip by way of the Isthmus of Panama, and
returned by the Niearuaga Route, accompanied by her young-
est sister, Emma E. Cleale (now Mrs. H. F. Cornwall, of Oak-
land, Cal.), and the adopted infant daughter of a sister, who
had been called from earth shortly before her arrival at her
old home. A diary account (extracts from which are given)
of the return trip, plainly shows that more hardships and
peril attended this trip than the one "Around the Horn."
[Memoranda of voyage from New York to San Francisco,
in 1855. (The person alluded to as Gershom was the child's
father, who accompanied his sisters-in-law to the Pacific
Coast) :
Memoranda of Voyage from New York to San Francisco in 1855
Left the wharf in the good steamship Northern Light, on the
evening of September 20th. Emma seasick ; baby worri-
some.
September 21 — Cloudy, but fine breeze. Baby seasick. Weather
getting warm as we come south.
September 22. — Weather very warm. JMany passengers seasick.
September 23 — Sunday — a very fine day. No preaching. Sea-
sick passengers getting better.
September 24 — A large number of passengers on board, over
800, great many on deck now, some watching the water,
some the moon, some playing cards, whilst other pass re-
marks upon them. Babe asleep.
September 25 — Very warm ; passed some of the West Indies
today.
September 26 — Passed the Isle of Cuba this morning and this
eve watched the sun sink behind the mountains of Ja-
maica — -a very beautiful sight. Babe l)egins to pick up
a little.
September 28 — Commenced weighing baggage. I had to i^ay
.$15.65 for two trunks.
September 29 — Left the Northern Light at Greytown;
went on board a small steamer, E. L. Hunt, and proceeded
up the river. Arrived at Castillo Rapids at three a. m.
Got breakfast at the National Hotel. Very poor far(^
338 THURSTON COUNTY
From there walked about half a mile and went on board
another small steamer and proceeded np the river twelve
miles farther, then exchanged for the lake boat, the San
Carlos, a new and very comfortable boat. Dropped anchor
at Virgin Bay and commenced landing passengers. We
went to the National Hotel and got some supper, which
our Indians wouldn't eat, and then had to pay $12.50 for
one dirty little room, full of spiders and other insects too
numerous to mention — tried to clean it out a little —
killed about twenty tarantulas and made up some beds on
the floor as best we could.
October 1 — Still at the hotel and likely to be here for some
time, as the steamer from San Francisco has not got into
San Juan yet. We had to pay $1.00 per meal, which
takes off the cash quite fast, but today have got tickets
from the company for the whole time Ave may be detained
here. Very poor fare ; everything filthy so cannot eat and
am obliged to go hungry.
October 2 — Babe six months old today and has two teeth.
Fare rather better today. The men are amusing them-
selves outside, getting the natives to run races.
October 3 — Very warm. At noon heard the joyful news the
Cortez had arrived at San Juan. Some of the passengers
are coming in now. Presume we will start tomorrow. I
fear the dear little babe has the whooping cough.
October 4 — A great many of our passengers left this morning
to cross over to San Juan, and a great many left behind
yet. There are not carriages nor mules enough to take
them across. One wagon came back and thirteen women
and children got in, but had not got out of sight of the
house before we were told we must get out and walk, as
the mules were so tired they could scarcely drag the
wagon. Most all got out and walked but myself. I walked
with the babe over very bad places and down hill, but
when I thought there was no danger I would sit in the
wagon with the child. It was so much easier for the baby.
Sometimes it rained and I had to walk with the baby
wrapped in heavy shawls to protect it from the rain, and
a heavy umbrella besides. I thought the saying a true
one that we don't know how much we can endure until
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 339
we are tried. We travelled till long after dark and I
thought we would have to stay out of doors all night, when
one gentleman came back with three mules and Emma and
another young lady got on and rode off for the half-w^ay
house some two or three miles distant. In about another
half an hour Greshom and another man came back to see
what had become of us and found us in the middle of the
road, the mules determined not to go another step. The
question was, what was to be done? One thing was cer-
tain, we must have some food for the child and shelter. I
got on Gershom's mule and he took the child in his arms
and we started off for the half-way house. Sometimes I
walked and he rode and carried the carpet bag. "We walked
this way until we came to the house at 10 o'clock, covered
with mud, and so dark we could scarcely see the road.
Were very glad to find shelter. The dear little one never
cried once all that long afternoon and hard journey. First
thing was to get something warm for her and then for
ourselves.
October 5 — Fine morn. All rose in good spirits and had a good
breakfast and clean dishes to eat from, a luxury we had
not enjoyed for a long time before. Orange, lemon and
tamarind trees looked fine in a cultivated state. The
wagon just arrived that I left the night before. All that
were left w^ere obliged to spend the night in the wagon.
They all looked like the last roses of summer. Brought in
some fresh mules and we are commencing our journey
again. But fresh as our mules might have been we are all
obliged to walk over two-thirds of the way into San Juan.
We went to the Pacific House. Babe seems quite sick today.
Her upper gums are swollen very badly and makes her
head very hot. This afternoon I thought she was going
into a fit. It frightened me very badly. Called a physician.
October 6 — Babe has the whooping cough sure enough. We
all feel about tired out. The cholera is on board the
steamer and we do not feel in any hurry to go on board.
Four died before we came here and two today, and it is
reported many are sick. Things do not look very favor-
able for us. All we can do is put our trust in God. iMany
would stay here until the next steamer, wen? things
340 THURSTON COUNTY
pleasant, but the place is full of AYalker's fillibustering
party and it is hard to get enough to eat. The Cortez is
a very small boat and I cannot think where they can
stow so many people. All^the beds we have had to sleep
on since we left the Northern Light is a narrow cot, with-
out any pillow or clothing except one dirty sheet spread
over. Just think, one dollar per night for cot and sheet,
and fifty cents for a hammock. One of Walker's men
was shot on the beach this morning for stealing cattle.
October 7 — Two more deaths on board last night. We saw a
man and his wife come on shore this morning to bury their
child. They dug a hole in the beach and laid the child in
and covered it over. About tea time a gun was fired from
the Cortez as a signal for us to go on board. Found things
very black and dirty.
October 8 — Proceeded to sea at 2 p. m. Very much crowded,
very poor fare and a slow boat. Got our baggage today
and arranged our room quite comfortabh'.
October 9 — Very warm. One of the butchers was kicked over-
board by an ox. Stopped steamer and got him safely again.
This evening one of the boats got loose and had io stop
again to pick it up. Emma seasick. Baby trttublesome
and sick. If I had time would be about sick myself.
October 10 — Baby growing very sick and the weather exceed-
ingly hot. Don't make much headway. Crossing the Gulf
of Tehauntepec, which makes it very rough and most all
seasick.
October 11. — Warmest weather we have had. One little baby
died this morning and I saw it thrown overboar».l without
any ceremony at all. It makes me feel very bad. for I am
afraid mine will soon have to follow. She seems very
low. The doctor says the only chance for her is a good
breast of milk. I find one lady on board kind enough to
do it — Mrs. Irvine. She has nursed her twice this evening.
Poor little thing, she seems so hungry for it.
October 12 — A little more air today. Babe seems much brighter
and has excellent appetite. At 2 p. m. went into Acapulco
for provisions and water. It is a very pretty looking
place. Would like to go ashore if I could. Babe does
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 341
not seem so well this eve. Cannot nurse well. ]Mouth is
growing sore very fast.
October 13 — Babe very low. I don't think she can possibly live
through the day. We have, done everything mortals can
do for her. The doctor comes to see her every half hour
and all the officers are exceedingly kind. The engineer
has offered me the use of his room on the upper deck
where we can have better air and be more by ourselves.
At five o'clock babe seemed to see the spirit of her angel
mother awaiting to receive her. She sweetly smiled, the
most Heavenly smile that mortal ever put on, and then
her Spirit fled to Him that gave it. She has gone to her
own dear mother and her Maker. IMay the Lord's will be
done is my prayer. I\Irs. Irvine dressed our little pet for
the burial and a sweeter corpse never was seen. The
dear little hand, so beautiful in life, is beautiful still, and
that sweet smile lingers about the lovely face. At 7
o'clock she was taken on deck and Mr. Smith, the Purser,
read the funeral service. The Captain, himself, held the
lifeless form and consigned it to the deep. It is the first
ceremony that has been said over anyone on board this
ship and I feel truly thankful for the respect shown our
feelings. I know no difference in my feelings than if I
had given life to the child.
October 14. — Very warm. The fourth Sunday since we left
New York, One man buried this morning. I am very
lonely and cannot tell what to do with myself.
October 18 — Fine day. One woman died, a steerage passenger,
October 18 — Spoke a whale ship today and laid by three hours
to get some water and provisions as we were very short.
One man died in the steerage. The poor wife is nearly
crazy. She has lost two children and her husband on this
trip.
October 18 — Quite cool. Young girl — steerage passenger — died
in the night.
October 19 — Weather very cold,
October 20 — Hope to get in tomorrow for we are very short of
everything — have to wash in salt water.
October 21 — This Sunday morning in sight of the entrance to
342 THURSTON COUNTY
San Francisco Harbor. All on board seemed so glad to
get in.
When my mother arrived in San Francisco in October,
1S55, she found letters from her hnsband, requesting her to
remain there until the Indian war was over. In 1856 the do-
mestic and social life of the pioneer settlement was resumed
and she worked with unflagging zeal for state and school and
church, wherever Avoman's aid was needed, that the coming-
generation might find a foundation worthy of the superstruc-
ture which she firmly believed they v>^ould erect. Her faith,
pride and interest in the State of Washington, and all that
pertained to its welfare and advancement, remained with her
to the closing moments of life.
My father took charge of the Kendall Company's afiPairs,
Avhich were so extensive and varied, that he was able to em-
ploy many who arrived with their fortunes sadly depleted,
and, for a span of years, this western part of the state was
largely peopled by settlers Avho to the present day take pleas-
ure in reminding members of the family that "Your father
gave me my first work." Mr. Percival afterAvards bought
the property on the corner of Main and Second streets from
the Kendall Companj^, where he carried on business until 1876,
when the partnership of T. N. Ford & Company was formed.
Prior to entering the mercantile business he built and operated
a saAv mill, which was located at the mouth of Percival Creek.
He also built the dock for the accommodation of the first
steamers running to Olympia.
In the early years of business life, I am confident that he
never failed to extend a helping hand to his less fortunate
fellow man. A man of quiet tastes, loyal to his state, town,
church and lodge, ever foremost in any movement for the de-
velopment and advancement of the state, the future of which
he saw with the eyes of faith, desiring no political preferment,
he filled positions of trust, was custodian of moneys and valu-
ables, and in the large warehouse, corner of Second and Colum-
bia streets, built July, 1857, now owned by ]\[r. W. J. Foster and
IMr. S. M. Percival, (and I will state in passing that vessels lay
alongside and discharged directly into the Columbia street
doors of this warehouse) he housed property of the Territory
as Vv'ell as of individuals ; he shirked no duty, evaded no re-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 343
spansibility, was free from prejudice and lived and died true
to the religious and political convictions he had espoused in
youth. Notably among the many services rendered to the
Territory by him in those early days was a trip to California
to get supplies to carry on the Indian war of 1855 and 56.
Many sections of the country' were impoverished at that time,
and our military operations were liable to failure for want
of supplies. Conditions became so grave that Governor Isaac
I. Stevens called Captain Percival to his assistance and com-
missioned him to go to San Francisco and arrange with the
merchants there to furnish the Territory with the needed sup-
plies and for this purpose Captain Percival was authorized to
charter vessels to bring the supplies to Puget Sound, which
was done.
Soon after the Indian v^ar, while on Squaxon Island over-
seeing a crew of men, who were cutting piles for the build-
ing of the sea-wall of San Francisco, my father was struck by
the top of a tree, which was broken off by the descent of the
tree that had just been felled ; he was bruised and scratched
and his leg was broken. Late in the afternoon of the next
day m}^ mother was startled by a roll of blankets being hurled
into the middle of the room, and saw an Indian standing in
the open doorway. Recognizing the blankets, she asked,
"Where is the Captain?" The Indian drew up his leg and
passed his finger across it ; my mother rushed to the door in
time to receive Mr. J. R. and John Wood carrying my father
on a blanket ; these neighbors were engaged in shingling the
roof of the brewery which for many years stood on the corner
of Fifth and Columbia streets, and from that height they
could look down into the canoe as it was drawn up on the
beach and discover the form of a man lying in it. He had
been brought home by two Indians who had paddled the en-
tire waj^ without taking rest.
This was the best that could have been done, for the only
way of getting from place to place was by canoe or rowboat.
My father's foot was turned around, and the limb and foot
so badly swollen that the toes were not visible, five indenta-
tions marking the place where they should be. My mother and
the friends used their best judgment in setting the limb, and
some one, (I regret that the name has escaped me), went on
344 THURSTON COUNTY
horseback to the military post at Steilaeoom, to ask aid of the
surgeon. Army regulations prevented him from leaving the
post although he could, and did, attend anyone who could
come to him; he gave the messenger such advice and direc-
tions as it was possible for him to do. The Rev. Mr. Close
had brought from his eastern home a quart bottle of home-
made hartshorn liniment, which he hastened to bring to my
mother, this and embrocations of salt and -water, were used to
reduce the swelling and my father made a quick recovery —
he was about on crutches in three weeks' time. His limb was
perfectly united, he could leap, run and dance as well as ever
and his rapid Avalk and active movements were not altered in
the least. My father's fine constitution, good habits of life,
heroic courage, the wholesome living in the open air con-
tributed to his restoration.
This story is not given as an isolated case, but as an
example of what splendid heights the pioneer woman rose to,
when occasion demanded it. I could cite instances where
small women far removed from aid dragged and lifted heavy
men, who had received injuries, to a place of safety, and cared
for their wounds alone. To the woman of today, surrounded
by antiseptics, and the wonderful appliances of modern sur-
gery, relieved from the suspense of watching for "proud flesh"
to appear in the wound, with physicians and trained nurses
ready to respond to a call, this experience, which my mother
passed through, will appeal (it has seemed to me) more than
any other I can give.
In March my mother, with my brothers S. M. and J. C.
and myself, visited the relatives in Massachusetts. We went
and returned by way of the Isthmus of Panama from San
Francisco, having reached that city by sailing vessel, and the
memory of that trip is a joy to me still. The steamers were
])alatial, for the times, (we were in« advance of the railroad)
the service above criticism ; twice a week concerts were given
on deck by the dining saloon waiters (who were colored men)
imports and entertaining features were arranged by the ship's
officers, for no one retired until midnight, on account of the
heat. I was in my twelfth year, but a pioneer child was much
older in the capacity of receiving impressions and appreciat-
ing opportunities, than a child of the same age today, and
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 345
the matchless beauty of the phc-phoreseent ocean, the South-
ern constellations, the gracefulness of the natives on the Isth-
mus, the water sports and diving of the natives for coins at
Manzanillo, where we made a stop, have been a vivid life-time
pleasure and were as thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated as
they could be today. My father joined us in the Summer
(leaving his large business in the hands of his confidential
young bookkeeper, Mr. A, A. Phillips), and we all returned in
November, accompanied by three sisters, the Misses Cushman.
"We children were made happy by the gift of a fine piano,
which father had purchased in Boston, and which had to be
shipped "around the Horn."
Xo piano ever contributed more to the pleasure of the
family and the neighborly children than that one. The first
brass band, Mr. S. C. Woodruff, leader, organized and prac-
ticed three times a M^eek in the kitchen of our home, after the
Chinese servant had finished his after-dinner work and joined
his brethren at the "Wash House," which was the Chinatown
of that day. The boys had received instructions on their
various "horns" from Dr. Eggers, a German scholar and
musician, a member of the House of Hanover, who lived alone
in a small house, and cultivated the entire block on which the
Y. M. C. A. building now stands. He had a beautiful orchard
and raised small fruits.
My youngest brother, Horace, born September, 1870.
would be put to bed, in an adjoining room and sleep calmly
Through the evening's practice.
^ly brother, John, gave me instruction on an alto horn, and
we formed an "orchestra" with S. C. AVoodruff Eb cornet,
J. C. Percival Bb cornet, myself Bb alto, S. JM. Pericval,
tuba and Stella Galliher, my girl friend, who possessed extra-
ordinary musical talent, at the piano. We worked indefatigably,
were very ambitious, and rendered selections from "Faust"
and from operas to an appreciative audience made up of
mother and baby, and Avhatever girls and boys happened to
come in, among this number ]\Ir. Samual L. Crawford of Seattle
was usually to l)e found. The concerts began at an early hour
and the masterpieces Avere reserved until the "audience" had
put the bal)y to ])ed. No valuable time was lost, however, for
it was the invai-iable custom to <')n])li)y tli(> iiitci-missiou in
346 THURSTON COUNTY
refreshing' ourselves from the pantry. On other evenings
we had "candy puUings, " making molasses candy or white
taffy, the boys gave minstrel performances, and we frequently
arranged tableaux and charades, one of the favorite tableaux
being the "Presentation of the Jewels from Rebecca to
Rowena," and always concluding v/ith some girl imperson-
ating the ' ' Goddess of Liberty. ' ' In this tableaux Ada Wood-
ruff, a clever actress, was especially fine. I think we would
have considered ourselves disloyal if we had omitted that one.
Either Miss Galliher or my brother, John, furnished appro-
priate music on all occasions. Whatever had been used was
put away when Ave finished. There was no confusion or "upset
house" the next morning. Something of this sort was carried
on in any home where there were children, perhaps oftener
in our own on account of the piano, although ours was not
the first one in town.
Our mothers, in addition to making all of our clothes,
(ready-made clothing was not dreamed of then, and boys
wore daintily made clothes as well as girls; my brother's
"best" shirts were made with rows of hand-made fagoting
between each tuck) lent a willing hand in the fashioning of
costumes, boating suits, etc., but we were expected to carrA
out our plans for amusement ourselves, and we were a happy,
contented group, working with painstaking diligence, out
of school hours, and when the "chores" were attended to^
perfecting our plans, for the standard was high, and no slip-
shod work was recognized.
Almost every family employed a Chinaman, three inviting
substantial meals were well served daily, the cake and cookie
boxes, the doughnut jar, were never allowed to bcome empty,
that these staples might always be at hand to "pass around"
in the evening, or to assist a neighbor in case of need. We did
not lack for delicacies, or "frilly" things upon occasion, for
all the Avomen of that day were able to achieve wonderful
results in cookery that would grace the most elaborate func-
tion today. This, I think, explains the leisure the women of
that day enjoyed, they did not allow themselves to "get
behind.'"'
During the summer the evenings were spent on the water,
AVords fail me to describe the beauty of this bay, as I know it,
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 347
entirely free from piles or obstrnetion, spanned by the bridge
from Fonrtli Street to West Olympia, with a pebbly beaeh
wherever one might ehoose to land ; and it was an enrapturing
sight on a summer's evening, dotted with boats from the
landing to the falls at Tumwater, with sailboats in the distance
with one of our gorgeous sunsets easting a glow over the water,
and the sound of music greeting the ear. The boat house and
float was located at the west end of First Street and owned
by my uncle, Mr. J. H. Cleale. There were boats of all sizes
from ver.y large sailboats with a seating capacity of about
twenty-five, to two of the daintiest racing shells, thirty feet
in length I have ever seen. The boats were the Whitehall
pattern, built by my uncle, and most beautifully kept. He
equipped a small scow with music racks, lighted it with torches,
for the use of the band. Two boats were reserved, one for
a girls boat club (Annie Stevens, Jessie Lowe, Belle Evans,
Fanny Steele, Lizzie Ferry), and one for boys (James Ferry,
S. M. Percival, S. C. Woodruff, Frank Treen. J. C. Percival).
Immediately after dinner young and old strolled down to the
landing and embarked. Many families owned a boat and it
was the custom for the entire family to go out for a ''row on
the bay"; the rowing was often drifting, the boats keeping
near each other, while Ave sang, or some one recited, as the
spirit moved us, for we sang whenever we got together, on
the water, aronnd a camp fire, or in a home. There was no
"younger set", we enjoyed our elders and they enjoyed us.
We felt no restraint in their presence and were all happy
together. So united were we that it was cpiite the usual cus-
tom for a youth of eighteen or twenty years to follow men
like Governor Ferry or Elwood Evans in contributing to the
pleasure of the evening, and he did it (if called upon) without
diffidence or hesitation, merely a conscientious desire to "do
his part." Illustrative of the capability of the young "to carry
the thing through," for some reason, one year there were no
preparations made for the celebration of the Fourth of July.
The Band boys set to work, raised the money, almost $1000,
and the result was a day's program, commencing at 9 a. m.
which "went off" without a hitch or any delay, and which
entertained and amused the citizens (iF tlu' town and all tlic
surrounding country. In the "C^ilaMinnii)ian Pai'adc," .Mr.
348 THURSTON COUNTY
Woodruff as the "Goddess of Liberty" on a pretentious float,
was resplendent in a blonde wig made from large hawser
rope; the other details of his costume were as original as the
wig. (No one was improvident, costumes and trappings were
always carefully "put away for the next time.")
Charles B. Hopkins, grandson of the late Col. E. D. Baker,
was (if I mistake not) Marshall of the Day. The usual exer-
cises took place on the Public Square, the Rev. Mr. Utter,
Chaplain. Every other position throughout the day was filled
by boys, the eldest of whom could not have been over eighteen
years of age. S. C. Percival read the "Declaration" and was
coached in his rendition by the Hon. Elwood Evans. S. C.
AVoodrutf, a humorist of no mean order, was Orator of the Day.
He advanced to the Speaker's stand, with an armful of
shingles, upon which his "oration" Avas written. As he
Avarmed to his subject he Avould absent-mindedly (?) bring
a shingle down npon the table, Avith such emphasis, that it
Avas splintered and Avhen he concluded, he stood ankle-deep
in kindling Avood ; the expression of astonishment and dismay
Avhich overspread his face Avhenever this happened was worthy
of the "Inimitable Woodruff", as he was called in after
years. Lest some captious person might imagine that he had
been disrespectful to the great and glorious day, AA'hen the
laughter and applause had died aAvay, ]\Ir. Woodruff drcAv a
neat manuscript from his pocket, and, AAath great dignity,
deli\"ered a short but Avell Avritten address. (In late years
Mr. Woodruff has found a field for his talent as leader and
organizer and has succeeded in training and developing the
poor deficient little ones, Avhom he has in his care, as no one
else has been able to do. For several years programs have
been received of the Christmas Aveek Cantatas and plays
— usually three days — in AA'hich the children at the School for
Defective Youth, of AA^hich Mr. Woodruff is Superintendent,
have taken part). A ''Glee Club" of boys assisted, the water
sports and boat races Avere A^ery interesting, performed as they
AA'ere by boys AAdio had spent a large portion of their lives
in and on Budd's Inlet. I do not Avish to give the impression
that our elders had no festivities except those they shared Avith
the young. The "Merry Bachelors" Club was in existence
tor several years, and their Avinter club dances Avere \ery
PfOXEER REMINISCENCES 349
cnjoyaljle. ehnmiing evening parties were given in private
homes, delightful evening receptions were given by Colonel
and Mrs. Koss, Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and at New
Year's and other appropriate days it was the custom to give
H large ball.
S. M. Pereival (also his brother. John), having attended
the California Military Academy, in Oakland, Cal., and knov\--
ing the salutary effect of military training, organized July IS.
1884, the Washington Cadets, a company of boys who were
not old enough to join the Territorial Militia, and the upper
floor of the old warehouse, previously mentioned, was used
as an Armory and drill room. A press notice says, "To be
a successful leader and instructor of boys is a natural talent
v,-hich is given to very few, and recognizing this fact, and the
importance of the service done the boys of the city by Captain
Pereival. certain of his friends conceived the idea of present-
ing him some testimonial of their appreciation of his efforts."
On the afternoon of September 24, 1885: "The Capitol Guard,
Capt. J. C. Ten Eyck, escorted the Washington Cadets to the
Public Scjuare, where the Olympia Cornet Band and a large
audience were in waiting. Gov. Watson C. Squire, who had
made a special trip from Seattle to be present, attended by
Hon. T. ]M. Reed and Major J. R. Hayden, approached the
line, and with fitting remarks presented Captain Pereival,
on behalf of the friends of the Company, with a beautiful
sword and belt."
The proficiency of the Cadets was such that the Governor
said that he thought the Washington Cadets to be the l)est
drilled company in the Territory. The same press notice says
further "on all occasions when a public escort has been re-
(juired, the Washington Cadets have been ready and willing
to turn out, and have added very much to the public parades
Avhich have taken place this summer. Especially did the
Cadets show to advantage on the occasion of the Territorial
IMuster in this city, when they spent two days in Camp with
the ^lilitia, and by their courteous demeanor and soldierly
bearing, they won the respect of the whole Camp."
On another occasion a Cadets Ball was given and the
newspaper of that date records, "At this time the Cadets under
command of Capt. S. iM. Pereival, First Lieut. Fred Smith,
350 THURSTON COUNTY
Second Lieut. Bates Cavanaug-'.i, marched into the hall with
that precision of movement which s;) marks their .drill. Here-
upon Miss Janet Moore appeared upon the stage, and with
an appropriate address presented to the Cadets a banner,
which the ladies of Olympia had purchased for them. The
banner is four by six, a solid piece of blue silk. On each side
there is painted in artistic style, the Coat of Arras of the
Territory with its legend 'Al-ki' — after a little while. There
is also painted upon each side the words 'Washington Cadets'.
It is a beautiful banner, the finest of its kind in the Territory.
The roster of the Company is as follows: Harry Cowles, Geo.
Libby, Horace Percival, W. J. Fo.ster, Harry Crosby, Wood
Doane, Nathan Wolf, Charles Leighton, James Hayden, Eltney
Van Epps, Bate-, Cavanaugh, R3bt. Blankenship, Fred Smith,
Frank Carroll, Willie Young, David Baker, Geo. Doane, Win-
lock Miller, Arlie Van Epps, Van Woodard, Walter Smith,
Dave Williams, Pendleton ]\Iiller, Henry Kuykendall, Willie
Page, Oscar Craig, Geo. Buchanan, Frank IMurphy."
xVs I have stated, in the early settlement of the Territory,
the only way of traveling was by canoe or rowboat on the
water, and on horseback follovving the "blazed" trail on land.
Later the trail was widened to a road, but even then a winter
trip from Puget Sound to the Columbia Eiver was often a
thrilling experience. In the summer and as many of the winter
months as possible, the conveyance was the picturesque stage
coach of story and theater renown — but usually for a longer
or shorter period in the winter the road became so nearly
impassable that the vehicle known to early settlers as a "dead
axe" wagon was used. For small parties, or when the booking
over-ran the seating capacity of the regular stage, an "extra"
was put on. This was a miniature stage coach which accom-
modated but six inside passengers and one outside with the
driver — and a small "boot" not sufficient for large trunks,
which either followed or preceded the "extra." An important
feature of the luggage of those days was the large, well filled
lunch baskets, for there was a delightful sense of uncertainty
aljout reaching the regular stations. As no gTiest or member
of a family ever set out upon a journey without partaking of
a hot substantial breakfast, served not later than 3:30 o'clock
;i. m., housekeepers will appreciate what the matrons of that
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 351
day dill, in a social way, in "speeding the parting guest."
The expenses of the trip were from $20 to $25 — $15 for the
stage ride with meals and steamer ticket extra.
In February, 1871, a party composed of Lizzie P. Ferry
(Mrs. John Leary), Belle T. Evans (Mrs. Samuel Wilkeson).
Fanny 0. Steele' (Mrs. E. G. O'Brien), Stella Galliher and
myself, escorted by my father, left Olympia in an ''extra" at
4 o'clock— the regular hour for the departure of the stage. ]My
father was enroute to San Francisco, and the girls, traveling
in his care, were on their way to enter the Easter term at
St. Helen's Hall, which had been founded in 1869 at Port-
land, Ore. The parents of these girls had welcomed the oppor-
tunity of giving such superior educational advantages to their
daughters, and I wish it were in my power to properly express
what the establishment of St. Helen's Hall at that early day,
meant to the girls of the entire Northw^est. That I could pay
a proper tribute to the character of Mary B. Rodney, for
twenty years principal of the school. A woman descended
from a titled family in England, and from Caesar Rodney,
signer of the "Declaration of Independence," of rare schol-
astic attainments, of cultured mind and lofty purpose, she
left an ineffaceable stamp upon a generation of women.
On the first day of our journey the breakfast and dinner
stations Avere reached without mishap ; at the noon stopping
place we found Mr. R. G. O'Brien, who w^as Deputy Collector
of Internal Revenue. He was making the trip on horseback
and joined our party. About the middle of the afternoon, in
going over a piece of "corduroy" and "chuck holes" we
suddenly came to an abrupt standstill with a broken axle.
By the time a small fir tree had been felled and lashed in place,
the daylight was fast waning, and we were unable to reach
IMcDonald's, where we had intended to pass the night. We
vrere hospitably cared for by a Frenchman named Bernier.
The family spoke English very imperfectly, and doubtless
were severely taxed to provide accommodation for a party of
eight on short notice. !Mr. O'Brien, ]\Ir. Percival and the
driver were disposed of in the attic. The Bernier family oc-
cupied the floor of the living room, and the "best room" where
the "Lares and Penates" of the household were carefully
kept, was given to tlic girls. The second day on arriving at
'M'2 THURSTON COUNTY
Pumphreys' (Olequa) Ave found Colonel Pardee, Chief Clerk
to Colonel Ross. He also joined the party and we embarked
shortly after noon in a small canoe. (I regret that I can not
give the dimensions, but I have a distinct recollection that we
were packed in.) Eight persons with a corresponding number
of umbrellas and band-bags, as the receptacle then used was
called, five lunch baskets, besides the Indian who sat at the
rear end and guided the canoe, made up the cargo and pas-
senger list on the voyage. All sat ''tailor fashion" and thus
vro. "shot the rapids" on the Cowlitz Fiver, arriving about
dusk at Freeport, where we made the acquaintance of Dr. N.
Ostrander and bis family. We were lifted out of the canoe
so wet and bedraggled, that we must have presented a forlorn
^ippearance. (It was never possible to raise an umbrella, as
it was necessary for the Indian to keep his gaze constantly
fixed on the bow of the canoe.) Never shall I forget the
hearty welcome given us, the kindly attention lavished on
us by Dr. Ostrander 's daughters, never will the remembrance
fade of the sense of peace and satisfaction produced by the
cheer and comfort of that well ordered home.
After a refreshing night's sleep we left Freeport about
noon on the "Wenat", which was the smallest and dirtiest
sternwheel steamer I have ever seen. At IMonticello we trans-
ferred to the sternwheel steamer ''Fanny Troupe" reaching
our destination, St. Helen's Hall, at 9 o'clock on the evening
of the third day from home, where we were greeted by our
townswoman, ]\Iiss Lydia II. Blackler, who was a teacher of
literature, languages, and higher mathematics in the school.
The return trip in the latter part of June was quite a different
matter, and was made in two days and one night. The con-
dition of the road at that season of the year permitted staging
'"over the mountains" as far as ''Huntingtons" (IMonticello),
and the big stage coach made the entire trip. The choice
seats were those outside and above the driver's seat and were
always the first to be booked. The effect of the light and
shade in the "forest primeval" produced by the lengthening
twilight and rising moon on those rides of a summer evening,
Avhich were extended to midnight, if the distance to the next
balf-Wfiy house demanded it, made a panorama that could
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 353
scarcely fail to arouse a sense of the artistic, however dormant
it might be.
In January, 1872, I was stricken with illness and my
mother deemed it best to come to my bedside. She gave my
oldest brother a vacation from school, and entrusted my baby
l)rother to his care. A neighbor kindly came each morning
to bathe and dress the baby, and the care of the child during
the day devolved upon "Sam", who was perfectly competent
to put him to bed. For three and one-half weeks, he was
faithful to his trust, and my mother's confidence was not mis-
placed. He taught the baby to walk by the original method
of lying flat on his back with my father's cane extended at
full length to the end of which my brother Horace clung, go-
ing round and round in a circle. His boy friends, with the
helpfulness which characterized pioneer life, played in the
street in front of the sitting-room windows, that he might
not be entirely left out of their sports. On her return he
proudly delivered his charge to my mother without a "bump"
or a scratch to report.
Cold had set in, and roads were nothing but frozen "hum-
mocks" and deep mud holes coated with ice. However, the
stage set out with several passengers. Mr. George Coggan,
the U. S. mail contractor, rode a horse belonging to his wife.
The horse was a beautiful glossy black creature, but hard
even when the road was favorable. At the breakfast station
the stage had to be abandoned and the passengers were obliged
to mount the horses. I\Iy mother was first placed on one of
the stage horses enveloped in a blanket which was securely
pinned to protect her from the bitter cold. After a time the
jarring caused by the heavy horse breaking the thin ice and
])lunging violently into the deep holes, became so fatiguing
that she was changed to Mrs. Coggan 's horse, which she rode
the rest of the way. The going was so slow and laborious that
it was exceedingly trying to the nerves of one who was con-
sumed with anxiety. When a stretch of road was reached
which appeared to be a little smoother, mother, being in the
lead, attempted to go a little faster. This effort came to
naught, however, for Mr. Coggan soon espied her and shouted
354 THURSTON COUNTY
at the top of his voice, "For God's sake. ]Mrs. Pereival, do not
let that horse trot on this ground, he will kill you."
The night was spent at ^McDonald's. Pumphrey's was
reached the next day and from there she took a canoe to
Monticello. From Monticello a steamer was taken to Port-
land, and in this way my mother accomplished what any
anxious mother would do today in six hours. My mother
decided to bring me back home for a time to recruit ray
strength. "We left Portland on the California, making month-
ly or semi-monthly trips to the Sound b}'- way of Victoria, and
we were detained for five days "bar bound" at Astoria; the
Captain each day running down to the Columbia River bar
but owing to a storm raging outside, would be unable to cross
out and would be compelled to return to Astoria. During
these five days my life-long friend, Helen F. Parker, (Mrs.
Herbert ^IcMicken), ministered to me devotedly. (Captain
Parker, with his family, w^as returning to Olympia after a
few years' residence in Portland). One of the kindly duties
she imposed upon herself was to bring me fresh water to
drink from a spring she had found on shore. Not content
with describing the beauty of the spring to me, she one day
came bearing a short, broad board with a replica of the spring
made with earth, twigs and ferns, the spring represented by a
tiny tin cup she had bought for the purpose. Then, as now,
she could find "Sermons in stones; lessons in running brooks,
and good in everything."
These incidents are not cited because they were excep-
tional ones, but they are what might reasonably be expected
to occur on any winter trip to reach the Columbia River. Now
and then, alas I some traveller did not reach his journey's
end — an over-turned canoe — a plunge over a precipice — but—
these accidents were rare.
The wonderful skill and dexterity exercised by the In-
dians who guided and controlled the canoes in that whirling,
eddying river, was almost marvelous in its way; something
we shall not see again. The almost human intelligence of the
stage horses — the thrill and quick response to the command
of the driver, in a moment of danger — aroused a feeling in
the human heart akin to respect for such noble animals.
The Portland Oregonian has lately said: "There is not
much that savors of romance in the rapid life we now lead.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 355
"All of the fine veneering of modern civilization has
failed to restore the wild beauty of the original social struc-
ture of the State.
"^Modern civilization and its attendant comfort and
luxuries which came with the railroad, are fully appreciated,
and none of us, perhaps, wish to return to the old days."
But we "old settlers" are fortunate in the possession
of experiences and memories which we would not surrender,
and which cannot be wrested from us. A positive knowledge
of that era of brotherly love and universal inclination to
help each other; and we experience a shock and sense of loss
when we hear of the passing of those friends of former days.
THE SETTLEMENT OF HAWK'S PRAIRIE
y\\\ George H. Himes, Secretary of the Oregon Historical
Society, has contributed the following interesting reminis-
cences :
"The first family to settle on what is noAV eonnnonly
knoAvn as Hawk's Prairie, although erroneously so, was Free-
man W. Tyrrell, who, in 1851, came with his wife and six
step children to take up a donation claim of G-IO acres oji llic
southeastern portion of this prairie. The names of the step
children were Levi, Jonathan Davis, Mary, Rebecca Jane and
William T. Prince. Two bo^'s were born to them a few years
later — Judson and Squire. The family remained on this place
until late in the '60s, wlicn it vemnvcd to the Lincoln Creek
settlement. AH the family are now dead except ^Irs. Layton
and William.
"The next settlers upon Txrell's (Hawk's) Prairie Avere as
follows: Elijah Tyrrell, in the edge of the timber at the ex-
ti-eme northern end of the prairie; 'Mr. Klady and his son
William, on a i)lace west of the Freeman W. TyiTell ])la<'e.
356 THURSTON COUNTY
bordering tlie eastern shore of Long Lake, a little way south
of the present Union Mills; David Phillips, the grandfather
of Mrs. 11. B. IIcElroy. of Olympia, northeast of the Klady
claim ; Henry Fowler, in the extreme western edge of the
prairie, which would be just north of Union Mills — all taking
their claims late in 1851 or in the fall of 1852. In the latter
part of October, 1853, my father, Tyrus Himes, bought the
improvements of Fowler for fifty dollars, settled upon that
place November 9th following, and spent the last twenty-five
years of his life there, and thus became the second permanent
settler upon that prairie. The original claim was 320 acres,
and the larger portion of it is now owned by David Fleetwood.
"Early in November, 1853, C. B. Baker bought the im-
.provements on the David Phillips claim, and with his family
of a wife and three children — James E., John W., and Leander
M. — Stayed there until the spring of 1854, when he and his
family removed to Grand i\Iound Prairie and secured a claim
on Scatter Creek, a short distance west of Kochester. The
surviving members of the Baker family — John W. and Leander
H. — are now residents of Portland, Oregon, the latter a suc-
cessful teacher in the public schools.
"The third family to settle on Tyrell (Hawk's) Prairie was
that of John AV. Hawk. He came from Indiana to Oregon
across the plains in 1852, first settling in Portland. His w^ife
died in December of that year, leaving six children, all boys,
as folloAvs : Albert, Wilson, William, Frank, Samuel and IMel-
vin. These children were provided with homes among other
pioneer families until the summer of 1855, when Mr. Hawk
was married to Mrs. Sarah Stephens Hawks, whose husband
was drowned near Astoria, February 24, 1854. Soon after
their marriage Mr. and Mrs. Haw^ks removed to Olympia, and
in August, 1855, moved to Tyrrell Prairie, locating on the next
claim east of the Himes (now Fleetwood) place, and gathered
his children together.
"Tyrus Himes was born at Troy, Bradford County, Penn-
sylvania, April 14, 1818, and while living in what w^as then
the frontier, and lacking educational advantages was a man
of marked intelligence and ability and was well known among
his associates as an exceedingly well posted man regarding
current events, particularly respecting all phases of farm life.
He became a warm friend of Owen Bush who told me in later
TYRUS HIMES
MRS. EMILINE HIMES
GEORGE II. HIMES
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 357
years that whatever lie had accomplished in an agricultural
line — and he has Avon several gold medals for his exhibits —
he owed in a great measure to father's advise and instruc-
tions.
"On ^lay 1, 1843, Mr. Himes was married to Emiline
Holcombe. She was also a native of Bradford County, Penn-
slyvania, born December 28, 1821, her parents removing
thither in 1796 from Connecticut. Her earliest ancestors came
to Massachusetts from Devonshire, England, in 1630.
"In the spring of 1853 Mr. and Mrs. Himes with their
family of four children, George H, Helen Z.j Judson W. and
Lestina Z., and four other persons, Joel Risdon and his son,
Henry, a youth of tw^elve years, Charles R. Fitch and Fred-
erick Burnett, and the additional family of John Dodge, wife
and five children, Robert Bruce, Francis Marion, Daniel,
Samuel Ives and Desdemona, started across the plains to
Oregon. The two families separated at the immigrant camp
ground on the Umatilla River, the Dodge family going to
Marion County, Willamette Valley, and the Himes family and
the four persons mentioned went to Puget Sound, via Xatche?.
Pass, 25 miles north of ]\It. Rainier, in company with a number
of other families and single men, the total number being 170 —
the first direct immigration to the Puget Sound basin. Late
in 1853 Robert Bruce Dodge left the Willamette Valley and
settled on Mima Prairie ; his parents and the remainder of the
family soon followed him and settled in the same locality.
"In October. 1854, Mr. Himes, associated with Joseph
Benson Roberts, a well-to-do logger, established the first boot
and shoe shop in Olympia — the first in the State of Wash-
ington. During the winter of 1854-55, William Wright, a
saddle and harness-maker, established himself in Olympia —
the first in that line in Washington. Mr. Himes followed boot
and shoe-making until 1866, when he retired to his farm for
the remainder of his life, his death occuri'ing on April 22, 1879.
In 1884 the widow sold the farm to the ])resent owner and
removed to Elma, Chehalis County, aiul sj)ent the remainder
of her life, her death occurring on October 29, 1898.
"George H. Himes was born in Pennsylvania, ]\Iay 18,
1844. Prior to crossing the plains IVoiii Illinois to Puget Sound
in 1853, he went to school fifteen months. In Thurston Coun-
t}^ he went to school three months a year from 1854 to 1859.
;',58 THURSTON COUNTY
On June 10, 1861, he began typesetting on the Washington
Standard, Olympia, for Mr. John ^liller IMurphy, and worked
in his office most of the time until ^larch 10, 186-1, when he
went to Portland, the trip at that time requiring three days.
On March 13th, he began setting type on the Oregonian, and
remained in that office until June 3, 1865. A few weeks later
he began working in a job printing office, and on October 5,
1868, went into business for himself, and carried on the job
printing business until January 3, 1899, when he was asked
by the Board of Directors of the Oregon Historical Society,
organized on December 37, 1898, to become the assistant, or
Field Secretary. In June, 1886, ]\lr. Himes Avas elected Secre-
tary of the Oregon Pioneer Association, and has held that
position without interruption up to the present time. The
acquaintance thus gained has given him a great opportunity'
to gather an unusually large fund of information about the
early pioneers of the Pacific Northwest, and this he has sought
to improve to the best of his ability. He was married in
Salem, Oregon, December 24, 1866, to Miss Anna F. Kiggs.
and eleven children were born t;) the union — nine daughters
and two sons — and five daughters and one son are now living
in Portland and vicinity, the others having passed away.
"The second, third and fourth children of ]Mr. and ]\Irs.
Himes, are as^ follows : ^Mrs. Helen Z. Ruddell. born in Stark
County. Illinois, February 6, 18-18, widow of the late William
II. Euddell, a pioneer of Thurston County in 1852, and ,since
1879 she has lived near Elma. Chehalis County; Judson W.
Himes, born in Stark County, Illinois, ^larch 9, 1850, learned
the baking business in Olympia, afterwards took a business
course in Portland, later on was a cruiser of timber lands for
the Northern Pacific Eailway for a number of years, making
his home in Elma, later on engaged in the real estate and in-
surance business, has been an Odd Fellow for many years, has
served as Town and School Clerk of Elma for several terms
and holds that position at the present time; Mrs. Lestina Z.
Eaton, born in Lafayette. Stark County, Illinois, November
26, 1852. was married to Nathan Eaton in 1872. He came across
the plains in 1843, was a volunteer soldier in the Cayuse In-
dian war of 1847-48; mined gold in 1849 in California, settled
iu Thurston County, tAvelve miles southeast of Olympia, built
a sawmill there in 1853 — the first mill in Western Washing-
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 359
ton away from the Sound — cleared up a large farm out of a
■wilderness said to be the best in the county in its day. ren-
reudered efficient service to the Territory in the Yakima In-
dian war of 1855-56, introduced the first mowing machines
in the count}- in 1856, established a photograph gallery at his
place in 1862, sold his place to ]\Ir. Collins in 1882 and removed
to Elma the same year and died in 1883. He was the father
of four children. j\Irs. Eaton died at Potlatch at the home of
her daughter, Mrs. George Simpson, in December, 1906."
PRIEST POINT PARK
There is not a spot of greater romantic interest in all
Thurston County than beautiful Priests' Point Park, wath its
\ovely, W'inding paths and drivew^ay, its noble trees, the bab-
bling spring of deliciously cold water, and never ending ebb
and flow of the sapphire waters of dear Puget Sound, coming
and going over the sands of the bathing beach. Chechaeos
often, in admiring this playground of Olympia, enquire how
the park became possessed of such a picturesque name, so it
was considered that a brief history of Priests' Point Park
might well be included in this volume of Pioneer History.
In Jul}^ of the year 1847, before the American settler had
arrived on Puget Sound, or, at least, on the section of the
Sound now known as Thurston County, Eev. Pascal Ricard,
with a party of nine Oblat missionaries, established St. Jo-
seph's IMission, on the east side of Budd's Inlet, about a mile
and a half north of Edmund Sylvester's claim. At that time
the Squaxon Indians were living in numbers along the shores
of the Sound below the ]\Iission and, indeed, the point of laud
embraced in the Mission holdings w^as a general gathering place
for the Western Washington Indians. The woods were full of
big game, unfrightened by the sound of the hunters' firearms,
wild berries grew in profusion in the more sparsely forested
360 THURSTON COUNTY
spots, clams there were for the mere turning over of the sands
of the beach at low tide, and along- the shining length and
breadth of Puget Sound there was no more prolific fishing
waters than those that washed the shores in front of the
IMission.
Here the good Fathers found a waiting field of labor.
Schools and classes were organized among the natives, who
took readily to the teachings of the priests. Land was cleared
for vegetable and flower beds, fruit trees were planted, a
building for a school room and for holding services was built
and before long there were a considerable number of young
Indian boys enrolled as students in the classes.
It is a matter of history that the savage mind most readily
grasps that religion that is presented them by symbols and
pageantry. The black-robed Fathers, with their kindly words,
ready sympathy and helpfulness won the confidence and re-
spect of the Indians to such an extent that even in later times,
when the white settlers were trembling and afraid for their
lives from the Indian attacks, the priests of St. Josephs' ]Mis-
sion lived in security and friendliness Avith the natives.
So intimate were the relations betw^een the priests and
the Indians that the former were frequently enabled to give
warning to the settlers of danger from contemplated raids of
the Indians in time for them to flee to the safety of the stock-
ade at Olympia. Several of the pioneers of the early 50 's can
recall Father Blanchard, who was at that time at the head,
of the Mission, having taken Rev. Ricard's place when that
Father moved on to establish other Catholic ]\Iissions. Father
Blanchard and his associates had a school of about forty young
Indians, who were taught the white man's ways, and to be-
come good Catholics. The classes were held in the main
building, which stood for many years after the mission was
abandoned, on the ground now occupied for a private garden.
Dark and gloomy were the rooms, with windows high up in
the walls, so high that the light came through but dimly. The
attention of the j^oung students were not distracted by gazing
out, and in the event of enmity arising between the priests and
the Indians there was no opportunity for a bullet to find its
mark by aiming through the window. The benches on which
the students were seated were the work of their own hands,
LEOPOLD SCHMIDT
Whose Generosity Has Done Much for Priest
Point Park
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 361
under the training of the priests, and was the start of the
manual training classes or departments now so common in onr
schools.
One pioneer woman, who as a young girl, lived on a home-
stead in the neighborhood, recalls visiting the ]\Iission while
school was in session and seeing the dusky young students por-
ing over their lessons. This lady also tells about the natives'
love for singing. The priests taught them the chants of their
services to their great delight. Sometimes, she said, an In-
dian would be picking berries back in the underbrush. He
would begin to sing or chant, another voice would take up
the refrain in another part of the woods and then another and
another until the strain would reach the fishermen out on the
waters, and the clam diggers along the beach, who would join
their voices in swelling the volume of sound until the woods
and shore would ring with the wild melody.
As a means of raising funds, the Fathers had a number
of their most promising Indian lads organized into a band
with a drum and a fife as the principal instruments. Summer
evenings this band would be marched up to the settlement and
paraded along the streets, discoursing their music on the
corners. The cap would then be passed and contributions
were freely given the youngsters. The ladies of Olympia, in
order to encourage the lads, made them caps of bright red
cloth. These caps were the delight of the members of the
band and were always worn when the boys came up to town.
On one occasion the Father, who had special training of a
class of Indian boys, marched them up to the public school
for the purpose of giving an exhibition of their attainments.
There were perhaps a dozen boys in the class, ranging from
fifteen years down to a little fellow of only about three years of
age. The boys had been carefully instructed to answer cer-
tain questions which the priest put to them. For instance :
"Who is President of the United States?" was asked the first
lad. Parrotlike came the answer, "Abraham Lincoln," and
so on down the line, each boy answering the question he had
been taught. When the priest reached the little fellow at the
foot of the class, he said: "Where were you born, Rain-in-the-
Face?" Without an instant's pause, the mite chirped: "I
362 THURSTON COUNTY
was born in a canoe when my mother had gone to dig clams.
Where, I know not."
After the Indian war and the various tribes had been sent
to the reservations, the Squaxons were put on the island down
the Sound that now bears the name of that tribe, and the
Fathers found their field of usefulness destroyed at the St.
Joseph's Mission and it Avas abandoned, the land passing into
possession of private holders.
When the year 1893 arrived, the acres of this former mis-
sion, w^hich is now comprised in Priest Point Park, had been
allowed to become delinquent or subject to county sale for the
payment of unpaid taxes, and became public property through
foreclosure.
Theodore Brown, always loyal to his native city, conceived
the idea of Olympia acquiring it for a park. He started the
sentiment and agitation for city possession by writing an ar-
ticle which was published in the Olympia papers, which urged
that steps for possession of the land be taken before private
parties could get hold of it.
By his writings and talking among his friends Mr. Brown
worked up such a strong sentiment in favor of his pet project
that a number of citizens went before the Board of County
Commissioners to urge that board to defer selling the land un-
til the city was in a position to buy it for a public park.
Among these men were Theodore Brown, T. J. Kegley,
Elias Payne and others. They presented the ease through At-
torney P. M. Troy, whom they secured as spokesman. Oppo-
sition developed to the project, partly through political reasons
and partly because a syndicate of speculators had organized
and cast covetous eyes upon this beautiful tract.
The Board of County Commissioners turned a deaf ear to
the plea of the citizens and advertised the tract for sale, but
before the sale could be consummated an election occurred and
a new set of officials were elected. Among these officials was
]\Ir. P. I\I. Troy, city attorney. Steps were immediately taken
to block the advertised sale by instituting an action in the
Federal Court to restrain the sale by representing that the
city wished to acquire the land for a public park. Mr. Troy's
efforts were successful and in May, of 1906, the city became
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 363
possessors of the property. But the people of Olympia should
remember that Theodore L. Browu was the first man who con-
ceived the idea of obtaining the park and agitated the same
until the city finally secured it. It may be truly said that
Theodore L. Brown was the father of beautiful Priest Point
Park.
The man who has done more than any one other man for
the park by his generous gifts has been the late Leopold
Schmidt. It was through his munificence that the Swiss chalet
which crowns the highest point in the park was placed there.
This picturesque building was originally erected for the dis-
play of the Olympia Brewery products at the LcAvis and Clark
Exposition in Portland, Oregon. At the closing of the expo-
sition ]Mr. Schmidt presented the chalet to the city of Olym-
pia and at his own expense had it brought from Portland and
set up where it has since remained one of the most attrac-
tive and convenient features of the park.
When Mr. Schmidt's will was read a few days after his
death it was found that he had added a bequest of $1,000 for
the benefit of Priest Point Park.
Leopold Schmidt was a native of Germany, coming to the
United States when about twenty years of age. In America
he led a varied and generally successful life, engaging in
shipping on the Great Lakes for a couple of years. Later he
learned the carpenters' trade and assisted in building the
first Turnverin hall of the Turner Athletic Society in the
United States. This was in Washington, JNIissouri, where the
young man learned his trade.
A few years later IMr. Schinidt went to ^lontana where he
followed his trade in Butte and Deer Lodge for several years.
In Butte he entered into a partnership with Daniel Gamer
and helped form the partnership of Schmidt & Gamer, of
the Centennial Brewery Company. He then went to Germany
for the purpose of entering a l)reAvers' school and while there
met the lady who was ti) be liis future wife, the marriage
taking ])lace before his return to America. LTpon his return
]\Ir. Schmidt was County Commissioner of Silver Bow County,
^Montana, and was final arbitrator in settling the conflict over
the townsite of Butte, which was contested by several mining
claims. He was a member of the Constitutional Convention
364 THURSTON COUNTY
of Montana, as delegate from Silver Bow County. He was
also in the first State Legislatures from that county as a
member of the House. Mr. Schmidt was a member of the
Capitol Commission of ^Montana and came to Olympia in 1894
to inspect the Capitol foundation. At this visit he became
interested in the possibilities of Tumwater water-power and
decided to remove to this State.
In the spring of 1896 j\Ir. Schmidt started work on the
brewery at Tumwater and by October of that year was turn-
ing out the finished product. Since then he has established
the Bellingham Brewery at that city and the Acme Brewery
at San Francisco, and bought and remodeled the old brewery
at Salem, Oregon, which later consolidated with the Albany
Brewery Company.
Mr. Schmidt, being of an intensely patriotic nature, liber-
ally assisted any plan or movement for the public good, as
was testified by his liberal bequest to Priests' Point Park.
THE JUDICIARY OF THURSTON COUNTY.
A chapter devoted to the men who have figured in the
legal history of Thurston County should be included in an
authentic compilation of pioneer reminiscences, accordingly, the
following list of Chief Justices of the Supreme Court, M^ho re-
ceived their appointments in territorial days, are given :
E. Lander, 0. B. McFadden, C. C. Ilewett, B. W. Dennison,
Wm. L. Hill, Orange Jacobs, J. R. Lewis, Roger S. Green,
Richard A. Jones. Of the Associate Justices there were : Vic-
tor Monroe, F. A. Chenoweth, E. C. Fitzhugh, J. E. Wyche,
C. B. Darwin, J. K. Kennedy, C. S. Wingard, J. P. Hoyt, George
Turner, L. B. Nash, W. G. Langford, Frank AUyn.
Later on came the Constitutional Convention, the names
of the lawyer member of which it may not be inappropriate to
mention in this connection :
R. 0. Dunbar, M. M. Godman, Francis Henry, J. P. Hoyt,
B. L. Sharpstein, R. F. Sturdevant, George Turner, Allen Weir.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 865
Of the brilliant g-allaxy of legal men who served the territor^'
in the early days it is now impossil)le to give a sketch of every
one, only individual reference can be given to a few of the earl-
ier ones. Each was an indispensible unit of the foundation be-
ing laid in his day of this great commonwealth.
One of the most prominent of the earlier jurists was Judge
0. B. McFadden. A former friend of Judge ]\IcFadden's pays
the folloAving tribute to his memory. "Not every judge is an
able practitioner and vice versa as was Judge ^IcFadden. No
doubt his reputation for strictest integrity was an important
feature of his success with judges and jurors. Judge Mc-
Fadden 's speech Avas distinguished by fluency and his de-
nouncements of witnesses Avhom he suspected of perjury were
scathing and effective. While he spent much of his time on
bis farm in Lewis County, Judge McFadden had a comfortable
home in Olympia, wdiere he spent most of the winter months."
Hon. C. C. Hewett was appointed third territorial chief
justice by President Lincoln, who was a warm personal friend,
and was distinguished l)y a high sense of justice, a plain, un-
assuming manner and a Lincoln-like simplicity, which won for
him the friendship and esteem of all who knew him.
As an illustration of force of habit, the following good
story is told of Judge Hewett, while conducting a case one day :
The Chinook jargon was so much in use in early days that
many of the most expressive phrases had become so common
that they were frequently employed in every day speech.
On this particular occasion, two attorneys clashed in
animated dispute over one of the important points of the trial,,
and in the heat of the moment, voiced some expressions in
Chinook, not complimentary to each other. Judge Hewett.
thinking to rebuke the wranglers for their disregard of de-
corum, laid down the following rule: "Gentlemen of the l^ai-,
you will hereafter confine yourself to the English language.
I don't purpose to permit any more of this cultus Avawa in
court." The judge himself joined in the laugh which followed.
El wood J] vans was known throughout the territory as a
man of high literary attainments, he having been a historian
of note as well as one of the foremost jurists of his day. Judge
Evans was one of the first attorneys to locate in Olympia,
where he resided for many years with his family. When Ta-
366 THURSTON COUNTY
(•;>nui "was on the boom, he went to live there and it was in thi'
City of Destiny that death came to him.
Among the eonspieiions fignres of the Pacific Coast was
Seluc-us GarfiekU'. In physique, he was noticeable wherever
he v/as seen, and his ability as a law\ver and statesman
placed him among the prominent men of the Territory. Prob-
ably the two campaigns when Garfielde was a candidate for
the office of Delegate in Congress were the most exciting of
any campaign of Territorial days, and after his election, while
speaking on the floor of the House, his silvery tongned elo-
quence was remarked and admired by his colleagues to such
an extent that Garfielde became known as '"The Elotiuent
jMeraber from the Pacific." While in Congress, Garfielde dr-
livered an address before the Y. M. C. A. on the "Resources
and Climate of the Northwest," which attracted so much at-
tention that Jay Cook, then financial agent for the Northern
Pacific Company, published it in several of the foreign lan-
guages for distribution in Europe.
Of the Judges of the Superior Court of Thurston County
since Washington became a state, the following biographical
sketches are given :
JUDGE MASON IRWIN
The first Judge of the Superior Court of Thui'stou County
was Mason Irwin, who was elected to that honor at the time
the Territory of Washington was admitted as a State in 1889.
At that time there were four counties in the district — Thurston.
Chehalis, Lewis and Mason. Judge Irwin held court in all four
of these counties, until the Legislature took Thurston out of
the district and gave that county a separate Judge, J. W. Rob-
inson, now of Seattle, being appointed by Lieutenant-Governor
Lawton, who was acting Governor at the time. Governor E. P.
Perry was out of the State for some months on account of his
health.
Judge Irwin made his liome in Lewis Covuity, and has
been Judge of the Superior Court there for several successive
tei'ms.
His first wife was a daiigliter of Governor Newell, and
among the Judge's pleasant remenilu'ances are his official visits
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 367
to the Capitol City to attend court. The first wife died in
1891 and several years later Judge Irwin remarried and his
family now consists of his wife and six children. In referring
to his early Olympia experiences, Judge Irwin said :
''There is little to be said about my experiences on the
bench in that county ; they were the usual experiences of a
judge on the bench. They had an agreeable Bar there at that
time, and I had many acquaintances in the city and made many
acquaintances throughout the county, through the jurors
coming in to attend court."
MERRITT J. GORDON
]\I. J. Gordon was the third Judge of Thurston Count>
after Washington was admitted to statehood. Upon the
resignation of Mr. Joe Kobinson in the summer of 1892, Gov
ernor E. P. Ferry appointed ]\Ir. Gordon to fill the vacancy
thus occasioned.
At the general election in November, 1892, Judge Gordoi.
was elected by the vote of the people for a four year term
serving on the bench until January, 1895, when he resigneo
to go on the Supreme Bench of the State. This position ht
held for the succeeding three years when he was made cor
poration counsel for the Northern Pacific Company and re
signed to move to Spokane where he made his home for several
.^ears.
Judge Gordon is now senior mem])er of the law firm of
Gordon and Easterday of Taeoma.
He was born in Sherbrooke in the Province of Quel)ee
]\Iarch 17, 1859 ; began the practice of law in Dakota Territor;s
in 1880, residing at Aberdeen ; was district attorney of that
district and city attorney of the city; president of the Bai
Association of the Fifth Judicial District, and member of the
first State Legislature of South Dakota ; came to 01\in])ia
Washington, in the spring of 1890.
THOMAS MILBURNE REED, JR.
]\Ir. T. I\r. Reed, fourth Judge of the Superior Court of
the State of Washington, was l)()i"n in Colonia. California,
368 THURSTON COUNTY
about the year 1856, coming to Olynipia with his parents at'
an early age. When but 14 years of age, he had graduated
from the University of California and from there spent five
years taking the normal eonrse at Princeton College. After
graduation at the latter institution, ]Mr. Reed returned for a
year to take a post-graduate course in the law department.
He was a junior member of the law firm of Brown, Ten
Eyke & Reed, in the early '80 's. this firm having offices in a
l)uilding near the site of the old Episcopal Church, where now
stands the Mitchell Hotel.
Later Reed moved to Seattle, where he was engaged in a
successful law practice until the fire of 1889 destroyed his
library and office furniture.
In the year of 1886 JMr. Reed was married to ^Miss Ida
]McKenny and a few years later returned to Olympia to make
his home.
He was appointed Judge of the Superior Court of Thurston
County by the late Governor John McGraw upon the resigna-
tion of J. W. Robinson from that position.
At the expiration of his term of office Judge Reed and
his family went to Nome, Alaska, to make their home. He
is still practicing his profession of law in that place, enjoying
an extensive practice. Judge Reed was appointed United
States Commissioner for Alaska and has been City Attorney
(/f Nome for several years.
Judge and Mrs. Reed have two children. Irving ]\I. and
Constance Elizabeth.
CHARLES HENRY AVER
Charles Henry Ayer was born in Saybrook, Connecticut,
April 25, 1862. He studied in the public and private schools
of the towm, and completed the law course in Yale University.
In 1884 he came to Olympia, Washington, and entered the law
(ffice of J. C. McFadden. He later went in business for him-
self and also formed several different partnerships, being asso-
ciated for several years with the late T. N. Allen. He served
one term as county attorney of Thurston County, and one
term as mayor of Olympia. In 1896 he w^as elected superior
judge of Thurston County, and filled that office at the time of
CHARI^ES AYER
(Deceased.)
JOHN R. MITCHKIX
(Incumbent.)
SUPERIOR JUDGES— PAST AND PRESENT
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 369
his death March 9, 1898. In 1891 he married M'ihh Cora Ellis.
who together with their five children, survives him.
JUDGE BYRON MILLETT
Judge Batod Millett was born in 1849. He came to Wis-
consin when a child, with his parents and was educated at Ra-
cine College. He w^as admitted to the practice of law in 1872.
and located at Columbus, Nebraska. He was elected mayor of
that thriving little city in 1876. In 1883 he moved to Colo-
rado, and practiced law at Denver until 1889, then moved to
Washington. Located at 01ymi)ia in the spring of 1890. where
he has since resided. In th-e early part of 1898 he was ap-
pointed Superior Judge of Thurston County by Governor John
R. Rogers, to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Judge
Chas. H. Ayer, Since locating at Olympia, he has served as
a member of the City Council of that city, also as Assistant
State Law Librarian and as a member of the State Board of
Law Examiners.
OLIVER V. LINN
The able attorney, who for six years occupied the position
of judge of the districts comprised by Thurston and ]\Iason
Counties — Oliver V. Linn, came to Washington from his boy-
hood home in Pennsylvania in the A'ear 1889. After spending
a short time on Grays Harbor, he removed to Olympia, where
he made his home continuously until the time of his death
in 1908.
O. V. Linn received his education at Wilmington, and was
admitted to the bar shortly before coming to the West. Upon
his settling in Olympia he formed a law partnership with Joe
M. Robinson, contiuing the successful practise of his profession
luitil the year 1900, when he was elected Judge of the Superior
Court on the Republican ticket. In 1906 he M-as re-elected,
and in 1908 was an active candidate for nomination to the
Supreme bench under the direct primary law. His death, how-
ever, occurred in the fall of the same year, valvular heart
trouble being the cause of his death. His wife, Margaret, and
one son, Donald, comprist'd his iinnuMliate family.
370 THURSTON COUNTY
Judge Linn was an honorable, genial man, loved by his
many friends, and respected and honored by his legal associates.
His widow, Margaret, died in December, 1913, at the
Linn home, in Olympia.
JOHN R. MITCHELL
John R. ]\Iitchell was born in Halifax County, Virginia
January 31, 1861. From six to seventeen years of age he at-
tended private school. From 1878 to 1888 engaged in farm-
ing and mercantile pursuits (mostly hunting) at his old home
the last three years of which he read law under a practicing
lawyer. Mr. Mitchell came to Olympia, Washington Territory
April 28, 1888, and formed a partnership with ]\L A. Root
at that time Probate Judge. He was admitted to the bar bj
the Superior Court (Mason Irwin, Judge) of Thurston County,
on November 23, 1889. In 1890 the young man studied law at
the L^niversity of Virginia. He dissolved partnership with M
A. Root in January, 1893, upon his cpialifying as Prosecuting
Attorney.
Mr. JMitchell was admitted to the bar by the Supreme
Court, May 24, 1894. He was elected Prosecuting Attorney
in 1896 and served 1897-9, and in January, 1901, formed a
law partnership with Thos. M. Vance, Esq., which continued
until Mitchell was chosen to the bench. Elected Judge of
the Superior Court for Thurston and ]Mason Counties in 1908
for four years and re-elected without opposition, in 1912 —
the position which he now occupies. In politics he is a democrat.
J. R. Mitchell was married to Hallie Price, of Clarksville,
Tenn., on April 22, 1891, while she Avas on a visit with rela-
tives in Olympia ; to which union one child, Richard S., was
born May 15, 1894; the son is now a student at the State
University.
CHARLES E. CLAYPOOL
Charles Ethelbert Claypool, at present Judge of Depart
ment 2 of the Superior Court for Thurston County, was borr;
in Indiana in 1861. He came to Puget Sound in the late terri-
torial days, and was one of the prominent younger men in the
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
371
days of early statehood. He was for many years with the Xa
tional Guard, and served on the personal staffs of the last Ter-
ritorial and first State Governors, was State Senator from
Pierce County in the second and third legislatures, Deput;s
Prosecuting Attorney, and Assistant U. S. Attorney. For a
long time he was the head of the law firm of Claypool, Gush
man & Cushman. at Tacoma. He went to Alaska in 1900, re-
signing his government post for that . purpose, returning to
make his home at Olympia several years ago. Judge Claypool
served tAvo years and a half as City Attorney of Olyrajoia, re
signing that office to accept an appointment to the bench h\
Governor Lister in 1913. Pie was opposed by three other as
pirants at the late primary and did not receive the nomina
tion. He married an Olympia girl, Miss Annie B. Cowles
twenty-four years ago, and they have two children, a son and
a daughter. The family live in their own home at 1617 Sj'l
vester Street.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 373
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE
Events as recorded successively by the "Columbian"
(1852-3) ; "Washin(?ton Pioneer" (1853-4) ; "Pioneer & Demo-
crat" (1854-1860); "Washington Standard" (1860-1873).
1852
September 11 — The Columlnan, a weekly newspaper, com-
menced publication.
September 14— Nelson Barnes, Jr., was instantly killed,
on Newaukum River, by falling of a tree.
September 23 — Brig James Marshall arrived at Olympia,
thirty days from San Francisco.
October 23 — Brig G. W. Kendall arrived, seventeen days
from San Francisco.
November 6 — A new coal mine was reported disco veretl
on the Skookumchuek, by S. S. Ford, Jr.
November 13 — A call for a meeting of citizens of North-
ern Oregon was made, to discuss advisability of memorializ-
ing Congress for Territorial division.
November 13— M. T. Simmons, S. P. Moses, S. D. Ruddle.
^^dam Wylie, H. A. Goldsborough, Q. A. Brooks, Wm. Plumb
and C. W. Hale were elected delegates to Monticello con-
vention.
November 13— Brig G. W. Kendall sailed for San Fran-
cisco with 6,700 feet sawed timber; 5,000 feet hewed timber;
10,000 shingles; 100 l)arrcls oil.
November 13 — New saw mill reported in course of erec-
tion on Nisqually River, seven miles from Steilacoom.
November 20 — Colum])ian announces removal of its of-
fice to building near ]\Iain and First Streets, in building with
postoffice and custom house, where they "are entirely above
high tide and have no use for canoe to navigate ai'ound our
sanctum."
Novcmbci- 27 - Aulhoi'il ics in Wasliington consent to es-
374 THURSTON COUNTY
labiishmcnt of a mail route from Olj'mpia to Steilacoom, pro-
viding a contract can be made for $140 annually.
November 27. — Schooner Franklin sailed for San Fran-
cisco with 300 barrels salmon, 8650 feet sawed lumber, 14 hogs.
December 4 — Wm. Dowling opened Columbia Hotel on
Second Street.
December 4 — Announces death of infant son of Col. ]M.
T. Simmons.
December 11 — Brig June sailed for San Francisco with
800 feet piles, 200 barrels salmon, 140,000 shingles, 30 cords
wood.
December 11 — Columbian announces fourth Aveek of go-
ing to press without eastern mail.
December 18 — Every house between Cowlitz and Olympia
crowded with emigrant families.
1853
January 1 — Edmund Sylvester donated two lots to j\Ia-
sonic fraternity.
January 1 — Columbian announces unconfirmed rumor that
President Pierce has been elected President.
January 1 — Also that Oregon Territorial Legislature has
been in session three weeks, but no authentic information has
been received at Olympia '^.f its proceedings.
January 1 — Rev. Berij. Close assigned by ^Methodist
Church to Northern Oregon, takes up residence in Olympia.
January 1 — A. W. Moore opens public school.
January 8 — Bark Sarah Warren arrived at Olympia with
•i^lS.OOO worth of merchandise. She was twenty-three days on
way from San Francisco and brought two passengers, Capt.
S. W. Percival and wife.
January 22 — Dr. D. S. Maynard of Seattle, married to
]\rrs. Catherin Broshears, of Thurston County.
February 26 — Died at Allen's point, six miles below
Olympia, Benj. F., infant son of Isaac Dofflemyer.
March 19 — A tiger was caught, weighing over 200 pounds,
by the "boys" on ^Mr. Bush's farm, six miles from Olympia.
jMarch 19 — "Wright, Coulter & Co., opened a general mer-
chandise store.
March 19 — Large quantities of coal are being hauled from
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 375
Skookvimchnck coal fields for shipment to San Francisco.
March 19. — J. W. Wiley sold his interest in the Colum-
bian to J. J. Beebe.
jNIarch 19 — Olympia enjoys first theatrical performance.
General Jack Rag, celebrated actor and vocalist, gave a grand
entertainment at Olympia House. Tickets 25 cents; children
and "niggers" free. Tickets sold at the bar.
]\Iarch 26 — Several new buildings erected. Catholic-
Church completed.
March 26 — J. R. Johnson, M. D., announces opening of a
hospital at his point, fifteen miles below Olympia.
April 9 — A bed of oysters discovered, four or five acres
in extent, on South Bay.
April 9 — Wm. Dowling, proprietor Columbia house, died.
April 9 — U. S. District Court opened in Thurston County,
Judge Strong presiding.
April 16 — Brig Kingsbury sailed for San Francisco with
250 piles, 20,000 feet sawed lumber, 30 cords wood.
April 16 — Methodist Church erected.
April 23 — Thirty families en route to Thurston County,
reported between Olympia and the Cowlitz.
April 23 — One hundred guns fired by Olympia light ar-
tillery in honor of the new Territory, Washington, first estab-
lished by act of Congress.
May 7 — First drayage business established in Olympia by
Post Master A. W. Moore.
]\lay 21 — Conrad Snyder establishes a brickyard in
Olympia.
May 28 — General merchandise firm of Wright, Coulter &
Co., dissolved, and establishment continued under name
Parker, Coulter & Co., John G. Parker being new member.
June 4 — John Edgar, Whitfield Kirtley, E. J. Allen and
Geo. Shazer leave for east of the mountains to confer relative
to a road to AValla Walla.
June 4 — Married, Jesse Furgeson to Margaret J. Rut-
ledge, all of Thurston County.
July 9 — J. Patton Anderson, first U. S. Marshal, arrives,
and prepares to take census.
July 9 — Account of celebration of Fourth of Jul\' by
salute at sunrise and usual patriotic program. At a meeting
376 THURSTON COUNTY
at the ]\IetluHlist Chureh toasts were proposed and responded
to by prominent citizens. Lieut. Kautz, U. S. A., responded
to "Army and Navy," and offered "The citizens of Olympia
— may they always have high tides, so that, like elams, they
may be ever happy."
July 9 — Died, Rebecca V. Chambers, wife of Andrew J.
Chambers, aged nineteen years.
July 16 — Great demand for labor. One hundred laborers
called for at good wages.
July 23 — D. C. Beatty commencetl manufacture of furni-
ture in Olympia.
July 30 — Married, at Scatter Creek, Thurston County, on
the 26th inst., by Wm. Plumb, Samuel Coulter to Harriet E.
Tilley.
July 30 — Public meeting to discuss plans for betterment
of mail service.
August 13 — Olympia markets destitute of flour.
August 13 — Married. James T. Philips to Junetta Grogan,
p.ll of Thurston County.
August 13 — Died, James II. Yantis, seventeen years of
age. Also John M. Monroe, aged twenty-three years.
September 17 — T. F. McElroy disposes of the Columbian
to Mat. K. Smith.
September 10 — List of 164 letters i)ul)lished, remaining
uncalled in i)ostof¥ice. If not called for within three months
will be sent to Washington, D. C.
October 8 — Chief Justice Lander, Secretary ^lason and IT.
S. Attorney' Clendenin arrive in Olympia. Reported that Gov-
ernor Stevens had arrived in White River valley en route to
Olympia.
November 12 — Married, in Washington County, Oregon,
Wm. Billings, of Olympia, to Mary Angeline Miller.
Also at Olympia, Benj. Gordon to Julia Ann McCullougli.
all of this county.
November 19 — Died, on Chambers' Prairie, Eliza Jane
Hicks, aged twenty-one years.
November 26 — Census completed. Thurston County re-
turns 996, Pierce 513, the Territory 3965.
December 3 — The Columbian becomes the "Washington
l^ioneer," J. W. Wiley, pul)lishei'.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 377
Died, at Olynipia, Nov. 21, of consumption, 'Sirs. Sarali
Cornell, aged twenty-four 3'ears.
December 10 — A. M. Berry associated with J. W. Wiley
in publication of Washington Pioneer.
December 24 — Capt. IMcClellan, Lieut. Donalson, Lieut.
Duncan, Messrs. Winter, Moffitt, Bixby, Giddings, and Suck-
ley, all attached to Gov. Stevens' exploration party, arrive in
Ohnipia.
1854
January 21 — Governor Stevens contracts for several build-
ings to be built on Main Street, Olympia, for j)ublic offices
and headquarters for Northern Railway exploring party.
Married, A. J. Moses to ]\Iiss Sarah J. Head, both of
Olympia.
Married, at Xew Market, A. B. Rabbeson to Miss Lucy
Barnes.
Married, Andrew J. Chambers to Margaret White.
February 4 — Pioneer and Democrat announces ''six weeks
without a mail from the East, and three w^ithout one even from
Oregon."
February 25 — Seal of the Territory designed by a member
of the Northern Railway exploring, offered for adoption.
(This design was afterward adopted. It represented a sheet
of water being traversed by a steamer and sailing vessel, with
a Goddess of Hope, with an anchor, pointing to the Chinook
word ''AIM").
At the election just held in the Territorj- — the first —
Thurston County cast 171 votes more than any other county.
IMarried, S. Nelson Woodruff' to Samantha Packwood.
eldest daughter of Wm. Packwood.
Announces dedication of the Methodist Church, which
took place March 19, Rev. J. F. DeVore. pastor.
February 25 — First Tei-ritorial Legislature meets (]\Ion-
day, Feb. 27).
March 25 — Victor ^Monroe delivers an address advocating
])rohibiti()n.
Ajjril 8 — First Legislative ball given, under supervision
nf Wm. Cock, of the Pacific Hotel, where the event took place.
April 15— A. J. and N. P. Miller commence erection of a
378 THURSTON COUNTY
steam saw mill at North Olympia, two miles below town, "the
largest lumbering establishment on the Sound."
April 29 — Married, by Chief Justice Lander, John G.
Parker to Jerusha Hays.
Died, Mrs. Angeliue White, wife of John ]\I. White.
May 13 — Bernard Cornelius, graduate of Trinity College,
Dublin, establishes a classical, mathematical, commercial and
training school in Olympia.
Married, G. AV. Allen to Hester Paekwood, daughter of
Wm. Paekwood.
]\Iay 20 — Bishop Scott and Rev. D. McCarthy announce
first Episcopal Church meeting for Sunday, 28th inst.
May 27 — Married, C. G. Saylor to Matilda J. Sargent.
Died, Geo. W. Guthrie, on Chambers' Prairie.
June 10 — Postoffice established on Ground Mound, L. D.
Durgin, postmaster.
July 1 — The first Sunday school opened in Olympia under
superintendence of Rev. G. F. Whitworth, in the Hall of Repre-
sentatives.
May 13 — Announces drowning of G. N. MeConaha and
Capt. Barstow, which occurred May 4th, while making pas-
sage in a canoe between Vashon Island and Alki. Mr. Me-
Conaha was returning home from Olympia, where he has pre-
sided as President of the first Legislative Council.
July 8 — Henry Cock, Dr. Kauby and Judge Roundtree
start for Yakima to prospect for gold. Reported that $3 to
$5 per day to the hand has been obtained.
July 15 — Firm of Bettman & Brand dissolve. ]\Ir. Bett-
man was third one to open business in Olympia, and now be-
comes associated with his brother in same.
August 5 — Commence pile driving for a dock to deep
water.
August 19 — First class in vocal music organized, under
Mrs. M. A. Haram, who "as a teacher of sacred music has few
superiors living."
Messrs. Ensign, Blankenship and Kirtley return from a
prospecting tour in Cascade Mountains. Convinced gold ex-
ists there but doubt its presence in paying quantities. They
reported favorable progress on the immigrant road over the
mountains.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 379
September 2 — Tumwater floiirino: mill commences opera-
tion, under management of Ward & Hays.
Silas Gallagher arrives, being first accession to the popu-
lation of Olympia from the Atlantic states that summer.
September 16 — Messrs. Giddings and Scration arrive at
Olympia, four days from San Francisco, breaking record for
time to that date.
Death of A. M. Berry, senior })roprietor of the Pioneer
and Democrat announced. He died in New Hampshire of
smallpox. He had gone East to make contract for printing
the laws and journals for the Territory.
October 15 — Contract let for bridge across bay to eastside.
Edmund Sylvester returns from East, where he went to
be married, accompanied by ]\Irs. T. F. McElroy and Mrs. A.
J. Baldwin, a sister of Mrs. Sylvester.
October 21 — Married, Francis ]\Iarion Rhodes and Mary
Ann Mounts, all of Thurston County.
Died, Miss Jane Thomson.
December 9 — Second Legislative Assembly convened (Dec.
4), at old Masonic Temple.
1855
February 3 — Legislature adjourned, after locating capital
at Olympia, penitentiary at Fort Vancouver, and University
at Seattle, with a brand* on Boisfort Plains, Lewis County.
Married, Urban E. Ilicks, County Auditor, to India Ann
Hartsock.
February 24 — ^Married, by Edward Lander, Henry Rader,
of Bellingham, to I\Iiss Elizabeth Austin.
Drowned, crossing Skookumchuck, George Watson
Stevens. He was a kinsman and private secretary to Gov.
Stevens.
]\Iarch 24 — ]\Iajor Tilton, Surveyor-General, arrived at
Olympia.
J. Patton Anderson resigned as U. S. Marshal.
April 21— On Gravelly Prairie, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth,
A. Benton ]\Ioses to Sarah Jane, daughter of B. F. Yantis.
Married, Geo. AV. Corliss to Lucretia R. Judson.
]\ray 12 — Democratic Territorial convention met in Olym-
pia and noiniiuiti'd J. Patton Anderson for Congress.
380 THURSTON COUNTY
Wm. Hicks eomniitted suicide by drowning in the liay
just below town. The first recorded act of self destruction.
Insanity, caused by too close application to study of spirit
rapping.
I\[ay 26— W. W. Miller appointed Clerk of the District
Court for the Second District.
June 13 — Married, Jas. K. Hurd to Eliza A. Woodward.
Died, Eaehel Henrietta, wife of John D. Biles, near
Vancouver.
August 17 — Meeting held at Washington Hotel t;) fix
standard value of various silver coins in circulation.
October 5 — Married, Butler P. Anderson to lone Head.
October 12 — Married. Joseph Bunting to I\Iiss I\r. A. E.
JMcAllistei".
Died, Nathaniel Alden, son of Wm. and Mary Angeline
Billings. Also Mary Angeline Billings, wife of Wm. Billings,
tAventy-six years of age.
October 19 — Call by Acting Governor for two companies
of mounted volunteers.
October 26 — John 0. Parker placed Steamer Traveler on
route between Olympia and Seattle.
Married, A. J. Baldwin to Miss Mary Battle.
November 9 — The Pioneer and Democrat announces as
reason for having missed an issue of the paper that "the hands
in the office were either acting as volunteers or were engaged
in the work of fortifying Olympia."
Also announces death of James ^IcAllister, A. Benton
Closes and Joseph Miles, killed by the Indians.
Married, J. C. Patton to Mary E. Weed, all of Olympia.
Companies of volunteers for service in the Indian war or-
ganized at Olympia, Chambers' and Grand Mound Prairies.
Third session of the Legislative Assembly meets in
Olympia.
Married, Wm. Baffleck to IMiss Elizabeth Sinnnons.
1856
January 4 — Married, by Rev. G. F. AVhitworth, Elwood
Evans to 3Iiss Elzira Z. Gore.
January 25 — Governor Stevens returned from the National
Capitol and is given a hearty reception.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 381
February 8 — First company of* volunteers raised iu Thurs-
ton County under call of Gov. Stevens. Also a company of
^Mounted Rangers.
April 4- — A detachment of twenty men were sent by Gov.
Stevens to apprehend Indians who had raided Yelm Prairie
and driven off and killed a large number of head of stock
belonging to Messrs. Brail, Longmire and Chambers.
July 4 — On account of the Indian troubles the National
holiday was not celebrated. A picnic was held down the bay,'
on the return from which the revenue cutter, Jeff Davis, ac-
companied the Steamer Traveler, firing a salute.
July 18 — iNIarried. Chas. C. Ferry to Mary J. Russell.
July 25 — ]\Iarried, by Rev. DeVore, Thomas Rutledge to
Miss M. L. Shotwell.
September 5 — T. W. Glascow introduced the first thresh-
ing machine in Thurston County and advertised it for use.
September 19 — Died, at Olympia, on the loth inst., Victor
]\Ionroe, Associate Justice of the United States Court. He
was a native of Kentucky and was aged about forty years.
September 26 — ^Married, John French to ]\Iiss Rebecca
Littlejohn.
Also, James ]\Iix to Mary Littlejohn.
At ]\Iiami Prairie, James Laws to Hester Bryan, all of
Thurston County.
December 12 — Fourth Legislative Assembly convened on
the 4th inst.
Married, Joseph Gibson to Narcissa Jane Ilenness, both
of Thurston County.
December 19 — INIarried, Wm. ]\Iartin to Ann E. Yantis.
By Rev. G. F. Whitworth. Daniel C. Beatty to Mary Jane
Thomson.
1857
January 2 — Married, Louis D. Barnard to ]Mar\' A.
Parsons.
James Redpath to P. Catharine Ostrander. daughter of
Dr. N. Ostrander, occurring December 9.
January 23 — Reception by Gov. Stevens and wife, a1 their
new residence on Capital Hill, attended by citizens of Olympia
382 THURSTON COUNTY
and vicinity, the members of the Legislature and officers of
the U. S. S. Massachusetts.
March 27^W. K. Stockend, a farm hand on Teualquot
Prairie, killed a panther, six feet, seven inches long, in a fair
fist and boot fight. The elaborated account in the Pioneer
and Democrat proves that likely candidates died before the
Ananias Club was organized.
May 29 — "Colored" Republican convention met in Olym-
pia and nominated a candidate for Delegate to Congress, after
adopting a platform affirming that "James Buchanan, as well
as the Supreme Court, should be abolished as a great humbug
and that a white man was a good as a negro when behaving."
May 29— At Swanville, by Rev. G. F. Whit worth, :\Iaj. G.
C. Blankenship to Mrs. Sarah Jane jMoses, married.
June 26 — In San Francisco, Isaac Lightner, an Olympia
business man, to j\Iiss Dorothea Leseritz.
July 17 — B. F. Brown, two miles below town, on the west-
side, commenced the erection of a wharf to deep water at
that point.
September 11 — Gov. Fayette JMc^Mullen arrived and took
oath of off'ice.
INIarried, William Wright to Sarah Ellen Littlejohn.
Contract for carrying mail from San Francisco to Olym-
pia, let to Pacitie Mail S. S. Co.
Died, G. B. Goudy, former publisher of the Pioneer and
Democrat, aged twenty-nine years.
Also Jas. K. IIurd,.from injuries received from attack of
a wild ox.
INIarried, Edward Huggins to Elititia Work, sister-in-law
of Dr. Tolmie.
December 4 — Fifth Legislative session met (8th inst.).
1858
January 29 — Meeting held in Olympia to protest against
fhe failure of the Pierce County authorities to hang the In-
dian murderer Leschi, under sentence of death.
February 19 — Married, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, Jared
S. Hurd to Anne M. Cock.
Wm. L. ^Mitchell, Deputy Sheriff of Thurston County,
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 383
under order from the Supreme Court, proceeded to Steilaeoom
and on the same day hung Lesehi.
March 19 — Married, David L. Phillips to Sophia Ellen
Suttlemeirs.
July 2 — Died, ]\Irs. Sarah Thomson, aged eighty-two years.
The mother of Rev. Geo. F. Whit worth.
July 16— Married, by Rev. G. F. Whitworth, Fayette Mc-
^Mullen, Governor of Washington Territory, to Mary Wood,
of Olympia.
September 10 — ]\Iarried, Rufus Willard to Sarah J.
Fletcher.
October 15 — Died, Margaret, wife of William Rutledge.
aged sixty-six years.
December 17 — Married, AVm. G. Dunlap to Carrie Cock.
December 31 — Grand Lodge of Masons for Washington
Territory organized at Olympia.
1859
January 7 — Meeting held in Olympia to organize a Grand
Division of the Sons of Temperance.
February 11 — INIarried, James R. Wood to Mrs. I\I. B.
Pullen.
Died, Fanny Belle, only daughter of Major James and
Isabella Tilton.
April 8 — First earthquake experienced in Thurston
County, occurred on the 2nd inst.
April 15 — Married, by Chief Justice McFadden, William
Mitchell to Martha Johns (13th inst.).
July 8 — Married, Henry Cock to ^laria D. Hall.
July 22 — Isaac Wood erected a brewery at Fifth and Co-
lumbia Streets.
Chas. H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, died at age
of twenty-nine.
October 21 — Fourth Street, from its junction with ^Main.
planked. Stumps removed from ]\Iain above Fourth.
November 25 — Died, Mollie, daughter of Selucius and S.
E. Garfielde.
On ]\Iound Prairie, J. W. Goodell.
December 9— Died, Mary F. Reed, daughter of T. :\1. and
E. II. Reed.
2S4 THURSTON COUNTY
Seventh Legislative session eotivened.
December 23— :\rarried. A. B. Gore to :\rrs. Vestatia J.
:\I. Hyde.
Dan W. Lowell to Ellen Willard.
1860
January 13 — Alert Ilook and Ladder Company organized.
The first organization of the kind in Olympia.
March 23— Married, M. R. Tilley to Miss R. A. Leonard.
March 30 — Died, J. W. Wiley, forty years of age. He was
for several years connected with the Pioneer and Democrat.
August 10 — Married, Nathaniel Crosby to Cordelia Smith.
August 17 — Severe electric storm during which three trees
were struck wnthin city limits.
Oregon apples were on the market at twenty-five cents
per ])0und.
August 24 — Contract let for clearing the capitol grounds.
Much local criticism of the Territorial Capital Commission
for not proceeding to build with .$30,000 appropriated by
Federal Government.
September 14 — Census just completed shows total poi)u-
lation for Thurston County of 15()4; value of property.
$1,529,700.
Eighth Legislative Assembly convenes and on December
11 passes bill removing capital to Vancouver, and the peni-
tentiary from Vancouver to Port Townsend.
December 28 — -Mount Baker in state of eruption, "throw-
ing off clouds of smoke and steam."
1861
January 4 — Married, Chas. Eagan to Kate Wood. Also
John Chapman to Sarah E. Dofflemeyer.
January 25 — Died. ]\Iary Rutledge, wife of Wm. Rut-
ledge, Sr.
February 15 — ^larried, E. N. Sargent to Lueinda Mounts.
March 8 — ^Messrs. DeLacy, Blankenship and Packwood
start on trip to explore Nisqually pass, south of ]\It. Rainier.
]\Iarch 15 — Having been discovered that the bill remov-
ing capital to Vancouver is defective, having no enacting
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 383
clause, an editorial l)attle is commoneed between the Pioneer
and Democrat, and Vancouver Chronicle.
April 10 — ^Married. Aaron Wehster to ]\Iiss Yantis.
April 26— Married, John :\I. :\rurphy to Eliza J. McGuire.
of Portland,
]\Iay 17 — Acting Governor McGill calls for organization
of state militia.
I\Iay 2-1 — Married, Isaac Ellis to ;Martha A. Connor.
New administration for Washington Territory announced
as follows : Governor, W. H. Wallace ; Chief Justice, C. C.
Hewitt; Receiver of the Land Office, Jos. Cushman; Register.
A. A. Denny; Secretary, L. J. Turney; Attorney, J. J. Mc*
Gilvra ; Associate Justice, J. E. Wych.
September 14 — ^Married, Jos. H. Kellett to Rebecca D.
Sargent.
September 21 — Married, Peterfield Turpin to Eunice M.
Harned.
October 5 — -Chief Justice Hewitt declares law removing
capital from Olympia to Vancouver null and void.
December 7 — Ninth Legislative session convened.
1862
^larch 29 — C. H. Hale confirmed as Superintendent of In-
dian Affairs.
.May 3 — Steamer Eliza Anderson takes up run from Olym-
pia to Cariboe mines.
June 21 — Died, at Olympia. W. G. Dunlap.
September 20 — A theatrical company, presenting "Lu-
cretia Borgia," "Lady of Lyojis," "David Copperfield," "The
Brigands," etc., appeared for one week in Olympia.
^Married, Henry C. Hale to Fannie E. Knox.
October II — Five hundred and twenty-cme dollars sub-
scribed by citizens of Thurston County for relief of federal
soldiers, and grand ball projected to raise funds for like
purpose.
October 18 — IMeeting called to take measures for show-
ing proper respect to memory of Isaac I. Stevens.
1863
January 10 — B. F. Kendall, editoi- of the Overland Press.
386 THURSTON COUNTY
(lied on 7th inst., from effect of a pistol shot fired bv Horace
Howe. Kendall was thirty-fonr years of age and a graduate
of Bowdoin College.
June 20— Died, at Walla Walla, May 31st, wife of Wm.
Cock, aged forty-nine years.
June 27 — Died, Rev. Richard J. Evans, aged twenty-eight
years. At the time of his death Mr. Evans was pastor of the
Presbyterian Church, from March 13, I860, to time of his death.
July 11 — Married, McLain Chambers to Esther Packwood.
July 25 — Died, at Victoria, July 18th. G. Warbass, of
Olympia.
August 1 — Mount Baker reported in state of eruption.
September 26 — Married, D. B. Ward to Belle Byles.
October 3 — Died, Levi Offutt, aged forty-five years.
November 14 — Married, T. J. Axtell to Eliza M. Brown.
Bride dressed in red, white and blue.
November 28— Born, to the wife of Robt. Frost, a daugh-
ter (24th inst.). Also to the wife of A. B. Young, a son.
December 26 — At Tumwater (Dec. 23), Clanrick Crosby,
Jr.. to Martha B. Ward.
1864
February 27 — IMarried, W. II. Ruddell to Helen Z. Himes,
on the 21st inst.
April 16 — Died (April 10), Geo. N. Scott, aged twenty-
four years.
July 9 — At Tumwater (July 3) Geo. W. Biles to Louise
Crosby.
October 1 — Married. Geo. W. Simmons to Virginia H. Cal-
houn ; also Christopher C. Simmons to Amantha Kennedy.
December 24 — Married. Stephen L. Ruddell to Amanda
J Packwood.
1865
March 4 — Married, James Scott to Electra Rutledge.
July 1 — Died, Mary Frances, daughter of Levi and Chris-
tiana Shelton. aged nineteen years.
July 29 — Schuyler Colfax addressed the people of Olympia.
August 19 — News of the loss of the Brother Jonathan
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 387
reached 01ymi)ia, Dr. A. G. Henry, Surveyor-General of the
Territory, was lost on this steamer.
Married, A. J. Burr of Olympia to ]\Irs. M. Woodruff,
of Tumwater.
September 30 — Committee appointed to receive and pro-
vide for women arriving on Continental from New England.
1866
January 6 — ^Married, John Shelton to Angeline Ford.
Also, Wm. P. Wright to Maria L. Willard.
February 3 — Died, at the age of sixty, Samuel James.
March 17 — New flouring mill erected by C. Crosby, at
Tumwater, is completed.
March 31 — Columbia Engine Company No. 1, is organized.
April 7 — Married, Dudley Barnes to Harriet L. Eastman.
April 14 — Married, Columbus White to ^lay Clark.
May 19 — Died, at Tumwater, Mary Crosby, aged fifty-
eight years, relict of late Capt. Nathaniel Crosby, a pioneer of
the county.
July 21 — The Pixley family gave their first performance
in Olympia. Annie Pixley, at this time fourteen years of age,
gained a national reputation as an actress. Her mother, at
this time, opened a millinery shop on Washington Street, be-
tween Third and Fourth.
August 4 — Died, near Tumwater, John Scate, aged sev-
entj'-six years.
September 8 — ^Married, at Victoria, Jacob Waldrick to
Lucretia Eaton, all of Thurston County.
November 17 — U. S. C. S. Brig Fauntleroy, Captain Law-
son, and J. J. Gilbert, arrive to survey coast of upper Sound.
December 22 — Married, James Brewer to ]\Iary E. Byrd.
Died, G. K. Willard, fifty-eight years of age.
1867
January 12 — Gov. Cole arrived in Olympia and succeeded
Gov. Pickering.
January 19- — Died. W. H. Waterman. Superintendent of
Indian Affairs, aged fifty-eight years.
Also, Christiana, wife of Levi Shelton, fifty-one years of
age.
.3g8 THURSTON COUNTY
Janiiai\y 26 — Married, at ]\rontesano, John R. James to
]\Iary C. Scammons.
Februarj^ 23 — Died, B. S. Cornell, in his sixty-ninth year.
March 2— Married. B. F. Rnth to :\Irs. Vail, "all of Thurs-
ton County.
May 4 — ^Died, at Tumwater, Ebenger Eastman, forty-five
years old.
June 29 — ^Married, J. D.'Spirlock to Cordelia Riekard.
July 27— Married, Thos. I\r. Reed to Eliza C. Giddings
(21st inst.).
November 23 — ]\Iarried, Amos Brown to Annie M. Peebles.
November 23 — The first circus to appear in Olympia. per-
formed on the southwest corner of I\Iain and Fourth Streets.
Died, Col. M. T. Simmons (on the 15th inst.). Col. Sim-
mons was one of the original settlers in Thurston County.
1868
July 18 — Died, ]\Irs. Gabriel Jones. She was seventy years
of age and came West in 1844.
October 3 — The Echo, a weekly paper, organ of the I. 0.
G. T., commences publication.
October 10— Married, Park Winans of Walla Walla, to
Lida I\Ioore, of Olympia (on the 6th inst.).
November 21 — Married, on the 15th inst., Thos. ]\I. Cham-
bers to Annie E. S. Grainger.
Died, on the 14th inst.. ^Nlary A., wife of Wm. Billings,
aged twenty-seven.
1869
January 2 — Married, Frederick Prosch to Helen ]M. Elder.
At the same time and place, H. M. Elder to IMiss C. A.
Ruddle.
January 9 — Capt. D. B. Finch presents to Olympia Lodge
of Good Templars, the Olympic building, southwest corner
Fourth and Columbia Streets, on condition that the lodge
maintain a free reading room.
I. Lightner and G. Rosenthal, pioneer merchants, form a
partnership.
January 16 — Died, R. W. IMoxlie, a pioneer, for whom
iNloxlie Creek was named.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES 389
M'ftreh 13 — Died, on Moinul Prairio, Rev. Chas. Biles, a
pioneer of 1853.
April 3 — Two velocipedes appear upon the streets of
Olympia. One a two-wheel affair and the other a three-wheel,
the latter of home construction.
April 17 — Died, Isaac Wood, a pioneer of 1851. Mr. Wood
was the first brewer in Thurston County, his lirewery ])eing
located at Fourth and Columbia Streets.
The Marsh ville (Westside) bridge, is completed.
July 10 — Died, James A. Watson. He had been connected
with the press of the Sound since 1861.
George Francis Train lectured in Olympia.
July 17— Tumwater lu'idge completed.
July 24 — Secretary of State William H. Seward addressed
the people of Olympia.
August 7 — Married, (Aug. 3), Albert A. Phillips to i\Iiss
Nellie Gillispie, of Whidby Island.
September 18 — ^larried, David Longmier to Elizabeth
Pollard.
November 20 — Town hall dedicated with dance, Friday
evening, Nov. 26. (This hall was destroyed by fire, June 4,
1914).
November 27— Married. W. W. Miller to Mary M. Mc-
Fadden, in Lewis County.
December 25 — G. A. Barnes commenced the erection of
the first brick building, which still stands on Main Street,
between Third and Fourth. In this building the first bank in
the Territory was started.
1870
February 27 — Marshall F. ]Moore, Governor of the Terri-
tory, dies at Olympia.
June 25— Married, J. 15. Biles to Julia Burkett.
August 13 — First installment of Gov. Salomon's immigra-
tion arrive. It comprised forty families of over TOO persons.
August 27 — Gen. Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van Ti-iiiii])
return after making first ascent made of ^Mount Iiainier. al-
though Captain F. W. Ferrell claimed to have ascended it in
October 1847, in company witii John Edgar, and a Fi-eiicli-
man and Indian, names unknown.
390 THURSTON COUNTY
September 17 — Census completed. Olynipia 1208; Thurs-
ton County 2246.
October 15 — Olympia infested with band of incendiaries,
and a vigilance committee is organized.
October 22 — INIarried, C. M. Bradshaw to Florence Holmes.
December 4 — Died, Mrs. C. H. Hale, aged 52 years.
1871
January 21 — An association of Pioneers formed. All citi-
zens eligible whose residence date back to 1860.
I\Iay 20— Died, Mrs. L. D. Dnrgin.
Also, Eliza C, wife of T. M. Reed.
November 18 — Woman's Suffrage Association for Thurs-
ton County formed.
December 30 — Puget Sound Courier commenced publica-
tion as political organ of the Federal office holders.
Olympia receives formal notice of acceptance by Northern
Pacific Railroad of land subsidy and location of termini at
0\5ympia.
1872
January 20 — Died, John Law, aged seventy-four (Nov.
12, 1871), an emigrant of 1852.
January 27 — First Unitarian Sunday school organized.
February 3 — ]\Iarried, J. W. Brazee to Minnie Biles.
March 2 — Died, Jos. Cushman, an early pioneer.
May 18— Married (May 12th) J. J. Gilbert to Fannie A.
Yantis.
June 22— I\Iarried, L. P. Venen to Emma Clark.
Died, on Bush Prairie, Tallitha Kindred.
August 17— Married, C. H. Hale to Mrs. P. C. Case.
Charles Vivian, father of the Order of Elks, made his
first appearance in Olympia.
September 21 — Piers laid for building now Recorder office.
October 26 — Public reception tendered Judge ]\IcFadden
on his return home during his campaign for Congress.
November 2 — Married, W. E. Boone to Mercie Slocum
(Oct. 30).
November 9 — Married (Nov. 6) Wm. Billings to Jeanette
M. Ballentine.
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
391
Died, H. R. Woodartl, a pioneer of 1852.
•Judge ^MeFadden's election to Congress is celebrated l).v
his townsmen in Olympia.
Olvmpia experienced the hardest eartlupiake that has
ever occurred here.
November 30 — ^larried, J. ]\1. Lammon to ^lary Hallett.
December 21 — Married, Nathan Eaton to Lestina Ilimes.
THURSTON COUNTY
EARLY FRATERNAL ORGANIZATIONS.
The first lodge of Free and Accepted Masons to be in-
stituted north of the Columbia River was organized in Olympia,
December 11, 1852. The names of the petitioners were : Thorn-
ton F. McElroy, James W. Wiley, ]\Iiehael T. Simmons, Nicholis
Delin, Smith Hays, Ira Ward and A. K. Skidraore, under dis-
pensation granted by M. N. Berryman Jennings, Grand ]\Iaster
of the Grand Lodge of the Territory of Oregon and wa.s
known as No. 5. under the Oregon jurisdiction. This lodge
exists today under title of Olympia Lodge No. 1, under juris-
diction of the Grand Lodge of Washington.
The first meeting of this organization was held Saturday
evening, Dec. 11, 1852. The lodge was opened with T. F. ]\Ic-
Elroy as Worshipful Master; J. W. Wiley, Senior Warden and
M. T. Simmons, Junior Warden.
The second meeting of the Lodge was held December 18.
1852. At this meeting a petition for the degrees was received
for the degrees from B. F. Yantis, one of the earliest and most
respected pioneers of the Territory. At a subsequnt meeting,
B. F. Yantis was the first to receive the three degrees in this
lodge. B. P. Shaw, of Vancouver, having received the pre-
ceding degrees, received the Master ^Mason's degree the same
evening as IMr. Yantis.
Olympia Lodge Avas chartered by the Grand Lodge of
Oregon, June 15, 1853 and was numbered 5. Upon the organ-
ization of the Grand Lodge of Washington, December 8, 1858.
Olympia Lodge became No. 1 under the new jurisdiction.
Another pioneer fraternal society is Olympia Lodge No. 1,
I. 0. 0. F.
This lodge was organized under a charter dated April ]0.
1855, by the Supreme Lodge I. 0. 0. F. of the United States
The following Avere named on the charter list : C. C. Llewitt.
J. L. Head, James C. Head, Daniel Kiser, Cyril Ward.
o
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o
>
in
o
o
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r
DEDICATION
It would, perhaps, have been more appropriate to have
dedicated this little volume to the brave and sturdy Thurstoi.
County Pioneers, whose life stories I have striven to set forth
in their own language wherever possible, and such, indeed, wasi
my intention at the beginning of this work, but as time went
on and I grew to realize the trials, hardships and privation!-,
which were the lot of the women who crossed the Old Oregon
Trail in the middle of the last century, I became more and
more impressed with the magnificent courage displayed h\
one w^ho has ever been the guiding star of my life. Surel^
making this arduous trip not once, but three times, entitles
her to an honorable place among the pioneers of whatevei
section.
She started from a home of comparative wealth and east
in ^Minnesota w^hile still in the freshness of her youth with hei
husband and two small children, of whom the writer w^as the
youngest, arriving in Sacramento, California, after six months
hard travelling, during which time the family never slept un
der a roof other than the canvas wagon cover, and endured
all hardships wdth an unparalled cheerfulness and fortitude
ever striving to assist and encourage her husband and to trait
her children in the right w^ay. ^Many an evening the Avritei
can recall being tucked into her little bed in the wagon box
by those kind hands and sinking off to sleep, lulled by the
monotonous sound of the horses crunching their grain from flu
long feed box on the ground beside the prairie schooner.
The stay in California was short, barely long enough foj
the family to recover from the fatigue of the long journey
and for this modern Cornelia to add one other gem to hei
jewel casket, then, becoming satisfied that all the shining gold
of which this young couple had dreamed, had already l)eer
picked up out of the streets by earlier pioneers, they decided
to retrace their journey as far as the Grande Rounde Valley,
in Oregon. Here, although the loose gold had also been al-
ready gathered in, tliere were plenty of oppoi'tunilies for gain-
ing a competence for the thrifty and industrious, virtues
which these people certainly possessed.
Within a few years prosperity had shed its golden glow
over the adventurers to such a degree that they decided they
had acquired enough to give them a cmnfortable start in their
old home as they were homesick and possessed of an over-
whelming longing to see once again the friends of their youth
Bundling the children into the wagons in wdiich the first
start was made, the long trip back to JMinnesota was under-
taken. Here the money acquired in the West was invested in
a farm which proved to be an unfortunate venture, for the
ground was worn out and exhausted and the knowledge the
young people had of all agriculturaal pursuits was purely
theoretical. The final result was that the money was soon alJ
spent and then the rememl)erance of the many opportunities
they had left in the Golden West lured them to return.
Again the family and plunder w^ere loaded in the wagons
and the return trip along the now familiar trail was started.
There were four children by this time, and on the way, some-
where back in Iowa, another baby was born to this heroic
woman. A lay-by of only a couple of days was all she asked
before the onward march was resumed.
At one time, while passing through Utah on the first trip
west, their train was fired upon by the Indians while the emi-
grants were preparing their evening meal, the miscreants then
charging down and, with horrid yells and flourishing of
blankets and robes, endeavored to stampede the horses picketed
a short distance from the wagons. The bravery of the men
in rushing to the rescue was all that prevented this catastrophe.
In the morning the way led on through a deep ravine with
rocky walls crow^ding close by the trail on either side. The
frightened emigrants were sure they would be fired upon by
the enemy from the tops of these walls but there was no other
alternative than to proceed. The women drove the teams
while the men with their guns over their shoulders, walked,
beside the wagons, guarding their families, their lives and
their every earthly possession. But they were not further
molested.
In remembrance of this grand, courageous and loya]
woman, I lovingly dedicate this liook to MY MOTHER.
16 75 11
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