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Early Mackinac:
utarto
'THE FAIRY ISLAND."
v***W $>
A SKETCH
BY
Meade C. Williams.
Name. -Indian Legends.— Indian Character.— French
English and American Flags.— Old Fort.— Mili-
tary History, and War op 1812.— Fur Trade.
—Early Village Life.— Christian Mis-
sions and Churches.— Natural At-
tractions.—Antiquities.
BUSCHART BROS., PRINT.
ST. LOUIS, MO.
><\W\
TO ALL THOSE
WHO HAVING ONCE KNOWN
THE ISLAND OF THE STRAITS
STILL REMEMBER ITS CHARM,
AND REMAIN UNDER THE POWER OP ITS SPELL,
THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED.
CONTENTS.
rnoe.
PBKFACE 6
CHAPTER L
The Island's name — Its etymology— Its sacredness In the Indian's
mind— Indian legends— Poetic vein in Indian nomenclature— The
passing of the Indian 7
CHAPTER H.
Early settling under the French flag— Pioneer military post on
northern mainland— La Hontan's visit— Removal to Detroit and
return— Post established on southern mainland— English sway—
Discontent of the Indians— Ball game and massacre— Alexander
Henry— Wawatam— Skull Cave 15
CHAPTER HI.
Removal to the island proposed— Transfer effected— Major Sinclair
— Captain Robertson (Robinson)— Rum— Building the fort 25
CHAPTER IV.
American Independence achieved— England's delay in surrendering
Mackinac— A second treaty required to secure American oc-
cupation—Greenville treaty with the Indians— Fur trade —
Washington Irving's description of Mackinac— Another picture. 33
CHAPTER V.
War of 1812 opens— "British Landing"— Fort Mackinac captured by
the British— Of great importance to British interests — Official
reports— Building of Fort Holmes (Fort George) 42
CHAPTER VI.
American expedition to recover Mackinac— Effects entrance at
"British Landing"— The battle— Major Holmes killed— Ameri-
can forces withdraw- Destroy British supplies in Georgian Bay-
Blockade effected— Blocade raised— Mackinac again ceded to
United States in 1815— Old cannon — Early officers at the fort —
Fort given over to State of Michigan 00
CHAPTER VIL
Early citizens of the island— Ramsey Crooks as connected with the
fur trade— Robert Stuart, resident partner In the Astor Fur Co.
—Henry R Schoolcraft, government agent, scientist and ex-
plorer—His literary works and character , , 64
CONTENTS. 5
CHAPTER VIII. phqe.
Jesuit missions— Marquette— Church of St. Ann at Old Mackinac,
and on the island— Trinity Church— Mission School and Old
Mission Church— Story of Chuska — Old Church restored 73
CHAPTER IX.
Exceeding beauty of the island — "Woods— Vegetation— Water
views — Curiosities in stone — Arch Rock— Sugar Loaf — Robinson's
Folly and its legends 87
CHAPTER X.
The island's celebrity as a place of resort — Early day visitors —
Books of description — Countess Ossoli (Margaret Fuller) — A New
York doctor's visit in 1835— Captain Marryatt — Mrs. Jameson-
Miss Harriet Martineau 93
LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.
Bird's eye view of Mackinac Island Frontispiece .
La Hontan's Sketch, 1688 10
Fort Mackinac 32
Mackinac Beach 41
Henry R. Schoolcraft 69
Old Mission Church 81
Sugar Loaf 91
Arch Rock 93
Tangle wood ^
One of the Drives 106
PREFACE.
I have had thirteen summers at Mackinac. Fellow visi-
tors there have often suggested that I should furnish, in
written form, some studies of the island.
While it is believed this sketch may have interest for the
general reader, it at the same time carries a local coloring
which nviy more particularly appeal to those who know the
place. As the charm of the locality is due, in no small
degree, to that halo of antiquity which hangs over it, I have
felt warranted in restricting myself to early Mackinac, with
but slight allusion to anything short of sixty years ago.
This sketch embodies the result of considerable research
among books and documents. Some fifty different works
have been consulted. Generally, though not always, these
are indicated in the narrative. As the reader will preceive, I
am greatly indebted to the various writings of Henry R.
Schoolcraft. I would also express my special sense of
obligation to the valuable series of "Collections and Research-
es," a work carried on by the Michigan Pioneer and Historical
Society. These Collections, at present, number twenty-six
volumes. The use they make of the important "Haldimand
Papers" of Canada, brings to hand much of the early military
history of the Straits and of the Island fort. Instead of a
foot-note reference in every case, I make here a general
acknowledgement.
During the progress of my work I have had great satis-
faction in a correspondence with Col. Win. Montague Ferry, of
Park City, Utah, a son of the Rev. Wni. M . Ferry, of the
Island Mission work of long ago, and who well remembers
Mackinac as the home of his childhood days.
St. Louis, Mo., (Ingleneuk,
June, 1897. Mackinac Island.)
& u tafia
EARLY MACKINAC.
CHAPTER I.
Michilimackinac was the old-time name, not
for our beautiful island alone, but for all the
country round about us, north to Lake Superior and
west to the head of Green Bay. It was the island
only that was first thus called. The word grew
out of it, and, small bit of land though it is, it
threw its name over a vast territory
The name has been variously spelled. In old
histories, reports, and other documents, I have
found Mishlimakina, Missilimakinac, Mishilmaki,
Michilimachina, Missilimakina, Michiliakimawk;
while in one standard history, when this region is
spoken of, it invariably appears as Michilimaki-
naw.* In its abbreviated form it has been writ-
ten Mackinack, Macina, Maquina, Mackinac, Mack-
inaw. In all the earlier periods following the set-
tlement of the island by the whites, in books of
travel and of history, the two ways of writing it
were used interchangeably, though the form Mack-
inaw was most commonly adopted. Also in many
of the early maps and atlases it is so given. Steam-
boat companies running boats to the island, gener-
ally advertised them as of the' "Mackinaw Line,"
and likewise business firms here so wrote the word
*Henry Adams' "History of the United States." 7
y EARLY MACKINAC.
-—at least as frequently as the other form. So this
was quite general during all that time, except that
the official name of the military post held to the
termination "ac." But since the railroad compan-
ies built their modern terminal town across the
straits and called it Mackinaw City, for the sake of
convenience in distinguishing, the name of the island
is now uniformly written Mackinac. In pronuncia-
tion, however, without attempting to settle the
question by the laws of orthoepy, it may be re-
marked that it is considered very incorrect; and to
the ears of residents, and old habitues and lovers of
the island, it is almost distressful to hear it pro-
nounced anything else than Mackinaw. A com-
promise may perhaps be allowed by taking the
name as if it bore the termination "ah, " and giving
it a sound between the flat and the very broad.
The c must never be sounded.
The origin of the word is in some obscurity.
All agree that the first part of it, "Michi," means
great. It is preserved in the name of the State,
Michigan, and in the name of the Lake, Lake
Michigan — meaning great waters. The French
took it up, spelling it Missi; hence the name of the
river Mississippi — great river, the father of waters.
Concerning the remainder of the name which fol-
lows the Michi, we are not so sure. The common
view is that the form of the island, high-backed in
the center, as it rises above the waters, and hand-
somely crowning the whole, suggested to the
Indian fancy the figure of a large turtle. Hence
that it became known as the land of the Great
Turtle.
ORIGIN OF THE WORD. 9
Schoolcraft, who is the best authority on all
questions pertaining to the Indian language, as well
as to the customs and characteristics of that race,
says that the original name of the island was
Mishi-min-auk-in-ong, and that it means the place
of the great dancing spirits — these spirits being of
the more inferior and diminutive order, instead of
belonging to the Indian collection of gods; a kind
of pukwees, or fairies, or sprites, rather than
Manitous.
Heriot, an English traveler in North America,
and who published his "Travels through the
Canadas, " in 1807, touched at Mackinac and reports
as the origin of the name that the island had been
given, as their special abode, to an order of spirits
called Imakinakos, and that "from these aerial
possessors it had received the appellation of Michi-
limackinac."
Perhaps these different views can in a manner
be combined. The turtle was held in great rever-
ence by the Indians. In their mythology it was
regarded as a symbol of the earth and addressed as
mother.* The fancied physical resemblance of the
island could easily work in with their mythical
*Andrew Lang in his "Myths, Ritual and Religious," (Vol. 1, p. 182),
mentions certain of the Indian tribes as holding the fancy that the
earth grew out of the tortoise. One form that the legend took was
that Atahenstic, a woman of the upper world, had been banished from
the sky, and falling, dropped on the back of a turtle in the midst of the
waters. The turtle consulted with the other aquatic animals and one
of them, generally said to have been the musk-rat, fished up some soil,
and fashioned the earth. Here the woman gave birth to twins and thus
began the peopling of the globe Thus in the crude fancy of the
Western Indians do we find a reflection or fragment of the ancient
myth which once prevailed in the oriental mind that the world rested
on the back of a turtle.
10 EARLY MACKINAC.
idea of the turtle, apart from its having any ety-
mological connection. And thus whatever way the
name is studied it becomes associated with some
Indian conception of spirit. All singular or strik-
ing formations in the work of nature — objects that
were of an unusual kind or very large and impos-
ing, as lofty rocks, overhanging cliffs, mountains,
lakes and such like — these poor untutored children
looked upon as the habitations of spirits. Our
island therefore, physically so different from the
other islands and the mainland about it, with its
glens and crags, and its many remarkable and
strange looking stone formations, would easily be
peopled for them with spectres and spirits. They
regarded it as their sacred island, and a favorite
haunt of their gods, and cherished for it feelings
akin to awe; and from the surrounding regions
would bring their dead for burial in its soil. The
island seems to have been rather their place of
resort and temporary sojourn than of permanent
abode.
There is something very fascinating in the
fragments of early Indian fancies and traditions
and legends which are associated with our island.
It is interesting, too, to note how the legends and
the mythology of the Indians and their dim
religious ideas so often took a poetic form. For
instance, in their pagan and untutored minds they
thought of the island as the favorite visiting place
of Michibou, the great one of the waters, their
Manitou of these lakes. That, coining over the
waters from the sunrise in the east, he would touch
the beach at the foot of Arch Rock; that the large
LEGENDARY. 11
mass of stone which had fallen from the face of the
cliff in the long ago, causing the arch above, was
"Manitou's Landing Place;'' that the arch was his
gateway through which, ascending the hill, he
would proceed in stately step to "Sugar Loaf,"
which in fancy they made to be his wigwam, or
lodge — the cave on the west side, known to all to-
day, being his doorway. Then again, the Sugar
Loaf stone and others of that conical, pyramidal
shape — such as the one which stands in St. Ignace
and in different parts of the northern peninsula, and
yet others which formerly stood on the island —
that these strange, uncanny looking rock forma-
tions, by a modification of fancy, they would
personify with great giants or monsters who tower-
ed over them as sentinels to note whether they
made due offerings and sacrifices to Manitou, their
success in the hunting and trapping being condi-
tioned on this kind of religious fidelity.*
The Indians, so spontaneously recognizing the
world of spirits, were fruitful in ideas and sentiments
of reverence. We are told there were no profane
words in their vocabulary. Think of a people who
did not know how to swear because they had no
♦Schoolcraft noted a curious fact among the Chippewas— that they
fancied the woods and shores and islands were inhabited by innumerable
spirits who during the summer season were wakeful and quick to hear
everything that was spoken, but during the winter existed only in a
torpid state. The Indian story tellers and legend-mongers were there-
fore very free in amusing their listeners with fanciful and mysterious
tales during the winter, as the spirits were then in a state of inactivity V vAxj o.
and could not hear. But their story telling was suspended the moment ^* <k«\\*^
the piping of the frog announced that spring had opened. That he had ^o^ Vj<t-c\
endeavored, but in vain, to get any of them to relate this sort of v*.,,.*^
imaginary lore at any other time than in the winter. They would always >•*« <j.V,Sn
evade his attempts by some easy or indifferent remark. ^J^S ~*>y*
12 EARLY MACKINAC.
words for it ! It is said that the nearest they ap-
proached to cursing a man was to call him "a bad
dog." So too in the nomenclature of wild or un-
couth looking objects of nature — while our white
pioneers and prospecting miners and avanl couriers
of civilization in the west have so often attached to
such objects the name of the devil, as "Devil's
Lake," "Devil's Slide," "Devil's Half-acre,"
"Devil's Scuttle-hole,'' and such like, the Indians
generally gave them some expressive and harmoni-
ous poetic name. On the island we have the
"Devil's Kitchen," but we may feel sure that was
not of the Indian's naming. The writer of this
sketch was told by an old resident who had passed
the whole of an extremely long life on the island,*
that once, long ago, ? shoemaker took up his abode
in that cavern and did his cobbling and his cooking
there. Possibly that gave rise to the name.
In this habit of nomenclature which linked
their ideas with the phenomena of physical nature,
we see a beautiful though often rude and childish
vein of poetry. Their name for the great cataract
of Niagara was "Thunder of the Waters," as that
for the gentle falls now within the limits of the
City of Minneapolis was Minnehaha, or "Laughing
=» / Waters." The familiar white fish of these regions
L,«^ ' ' was the "Deer of the waters. *' To the horizon
limit when they looked out on the lake to where
the thread-like line of blue water loses itself in the
clouds and sky, they gave a name which signified
the "Far off sight of water." Their name for
General Wayne, who did so much to overthrow
♦Ignace Pelotte, died Ftb. 1897.
c-
POETIC VEIN 13
their power in the west, was "Strong Wind;" while
the American soldiers from their use of the sabre
and sword in battle, were kno\*n as the "Long
Knives." Their conception of a fort with its
mounted cannon was "The high-fenced house of
thunder, "while the discharge was "The arrow that
flies out of the big gun." A little son of Mr.
Schoolcraft, when he was Government agent at the
Sault, was admiringly called by the Chippewas,
Penaci, or "The Bird;" and the English authoress,
Mrs. Jameson, when visiting there, after "shooting
the rapids" with the Indian guides, was re-named
' 'The woman of the Bright Foam. ' ' As their whole
life and range of observation was constantly asso-
ciated with tempests, forests, waters and skies, and
all the various phenomena of physical nature, this
gave shape to their conceptions and their question-
ings. It has always seemed very significant that
when John Eliot, the pioneer missionary to the
Indians in New England, two hundred and fifty
years ago, began his instructions among them, he
wTas met at once by their eager and long pent-up
questions of wonder: "What makes the sea ebb
and flow?" "What makes the wind blow?" "What
makes the thunder?"
Parkman represents the Jesuit missionaries
in Canada, two centuries since, as testifying that
the Indians had a more acute intellect than the
peasantry in Prance. At his best, however, the
red man was but the "Child of the forest," and in
the presence of the pale faces was not destined to
endure. They are a doomed and a passing race.
Many reasons, or causes, might be assigned for
14 EARLY MACKINAC.
this. One reason is that which was given by a
very thoughtful Indian in a speech on a certain
occasion long ago, before a company of government
agents here on our island beach. Said he, very
n flectively : "The white man no sooner came than
he thought of preparing the way for his posterity;
(he red man never thought of that.;' In this pro-
found observation is embodied one of the latest de-
ductions in social philosophy.
Of course, in thus speaking of the Indians,
reference is had to manifestations of their mental
character as seen in earlier days, and not to Indian
life of the present, as seen in the western reserva-
tions.*
*Catlin, who ranks next to Schoolcraft in his study of the Indians, In
an extensive classification of qualities, contrasts their original character
in their "primitive and disabused state" with their secondary character
after "being beaten into a sort of civilization." From being handsome
he says they had become ugly; from free, enslaved; from affable, re-
served; from bold, timid; from warlike, peaceable; from proud, humble;
from independent, dependent; from healthy, sickly; from sober,
drunken; from increasing, decreasing; from landholders, beggars.
CHAPTER II.
The annals of our island since its discovery
and occupation by the whites carry us back to an
early day. Explorers from France and settlers
from Canada were here two hundred and fifty
years ago. Traces of French and Indian mixture
are everywhere seen. Indian wars and massacres
have reddened these shores. Stories of English
power victorious over French, in far back colonial
times, have a part in the history of this region.
In a later day the island had its stirring incidents
in our own war with Great Britain, in 1812. Here
was the headquarters of the Mackinaw Fur Company
and the Southwest Fur Company, and afterwards
of the powerful American Fur Company, of which
John Jacob Astor was the chief proprietor, and
which made our island for the time the largest seat
of commerce in the western country. * Christianity,
too, has had here its early enterprises, at the
hands first of the French Jesuit missionaries of the
17th Century, and afterwards of Protestantism.
In regard to early military annals, history
points to the fact that with the exception of the
brief abandonment by the French forces from about
1701 to 1714, this region of the straits had been a
seat of continuous military occupation from the
♦Detroit, Vincennes. St. Louis, Lake Winnipeg, Lake of the Woods,
and other far distant points were but dependencies of Michilimackinac,
as the metropolis of the Indian trade.
15
16 EARLY MACKINAC.
last quarter of the 17th century down to 1895, when
to the surprise and regret of all who knew the
island's history, the United . States Government
abolished the post Three different Hags have
floated over a fort in these Straits of Mackinaw
during this long period past. These have been in
the order of French, English and American. The
French were the pioneers. They established Fort
Michilimackinac, over where now the town of St.
lgnace stands, four miles across on the northern
peninsula. This was about two hundred and
twenty-five years ago.
Baron La Hontan, who had come from France
to Canada at an early age and afterwards became
Lord Lieutenant of a French Colony in Newfound-
land, visited our Mackinac neighborhood in 1688.
In a publication of his travels in North America he
gives three letters from the Michilimakiuac settle-
ment of that day. * As accompanying his picture
on the adjoining page he thus writes: '-You can
scarce believe what vast sholes of white fish are
catched about the middle of the channel, between
the continent and the isle of Missilimakinac. The
Outaouasf and the Hurons could never subsist
here, without that fishery; for they are obliged to
travel about twenty leagues in the woods before
they can kill any harts or elks, and it Avould be an
infinite fatigue to carry their carcasses so far over
land. This sort of white fish, in my opinion, is 1 lie
only one in all these lakes that can be called good;
♦The book was first published in French, 1705. Afterwards an en-
larged edition appeared in English form, 1735.
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LA hontan's letter. 17
and indeed it goes oeyond all other sorts of river
fi.sh. Above all, it has one singular property,
namely, that all sorts of sauces spoil it, so that it
is always eat either boiled or broiled, without any
manner of seasoning.
"In the channel I now speak of, the currents
are so strong that they sometimes suck in the nets,
though they are two or three leagues off. In some
seasons it so falls out that the currents run three
days eastward, two days to the west, one to the
south, and four northward; sometimes more and
sometimes less. The cause of this diversity of
currents could never be fathomed, for in a calm
they will run, in the space of one day, to all the
points of the compass, i. e., sometimes in one way,
sometimes another, without any limitation of time;
so that the decision of the matter must be left to
the disciple of Copernicus.
'Here the savage catch trouts as big as one's
thigh; with a sort of fishing-hook made in the
form of an awl, and made fast to a piece of brass
wire, which is joined to the line that reaches to the
bottom of the lake. This sort of fishery is carried
on not only with hooks, but with nets, and that in
winter as well as in summer.
''The Outaouas and the Huron s have very
pleasant fields, in which they sow Indian corn,
pease and beans, besides a sort of citruls and
melons. Sometimes the&e savages sell their corn
very dear, especially when the beaver hunting
happens not to take well; upon which occasion
they make sufficient reprisals upon us for the ex;*
truvagant price of our commodities. "
18 EARLY MACKINAC.
For a short interval the French Government,
under the instigation of the post Commander,
Cadillac, withdrew the garrison (as already men-
tioned) and abandoned this region as a military
seat, in favor of the new settlement at Detroit.
That was about the opening of last century. But
this vacating was soon seen to be bad policy, and
in 1714 the fort was re-established. "When, how-
ever, the restored fort becomes known again in
history it is found located on the Southern Penin-
sula, across the Straits, where now stands the
railroad town, Mackinaw City. Whether on the
return from Detroit the military at once located the
fort there, or first resumed the old site at St.
Ignace, and removed to the other Peninsula at some
later period, is not definitely known. At any rate
it was the same mHitary occupation, and the same
Fort Michilimackinac. irrespective of the time of
change in the site. It stood about half a mile from
the present Light House, and southwesterly from
the railroad station; and was so close to the water's
edge that when the wind was in the west the waves
would often break into the stockade. Its site is
plainly visible -to-day, and visitors still find relics
in the sand.
After the conquest of Canada by the English,
in the deciding battle of Quebec on the heights of
Abraham in 1759, all this country around came un-
der the English flag. The Indians, however, liked
better the French dominion and their personal re-
lations with the French people than they did the
English sway and English associations, and they
did not take kindly to the transfer. One reason
PONTIAC'S CONSPIRACY. 19
for this preference is said to have been that the
French were accustomed to pay respect to all the
Indians' religious or superstitious observances,
whereas an Englishman or an American was apt,
either to take no pains to conceal his contempt for
their superstitions or to speak out bluntly against
them. To this can be added the well known fact of
the greater readiness of the French to intermarry
and domesticate with the Indian.*
This strong feeling of discontent under the
change of empire, on the part of the Indians, was
fanned and skillfully directed by that great leader
and diplomate, Pontiac ;f and "The Conspiracy of
Pontiac" is the well-known title of one of Park-
man's series of North American history. This
conspiracy was no less than a deep and compre-
hensive scheme, matured by this most crafty
savage chief, for a general Indian rising, in which
all English forts, from the south to the upper
lakes, were to be attacked simultaneously, and the
English rule forever destroyed. The Indians would
vauntingly say, ' 'You have conquered the French,
but you have not conquered us." Out of twelve
forts, nine were taken, but not long held.
* "When the French arrived at this place," said a Chippewa Chief at
a council once held at the Sault, "they came and kissed us. They called
us children and we found them fathers. We lived like brothers in the
same lodge."— Schoolcraft, in an address before the Michigan Historical
Society in 1830.
"In force of character, subtlety, eloquence and daring, Pontiac
was perhaps the most brilliant man the Indians of North America have
produced."—"^. History of Canada ,' ■ by Chas. G. D.Roberts. Schoolcraft
rated him in the same way. Drake, in his "Indians of the Northwest,'
says of him: "His fame in his time was not confined to his own continents
but the gazettes of Europe spread it also."
20 EARLY MACKINAC.
While this scheme was, of course, a failure in
its larger features, the plot against the old post of
Miehilimackinac across the water succeeded only
too well. The strategy and horrors of that capture
read like a tale of fiction. The story is old, but to
repeat it in this sketch will not be amiss. It may
be introduced under the title of
AN HISTORIC BALL GAME.
In 1763 a band of thirty -five English soldiers
and their officers formed its garrison. Encamped
in the woods not far off was a large number of In-
dians. One morning in the month of June, with
great show of friendliness, the Indians invited the
soldiers to witness their match game of ball, just
outside the stockade. The Chippewas were to play
the Sacs.* Then, as now, ball playing had great
fascination. And as this was the birthday of the
King of England, and the men were in the celebra-
ting mood, some indulgence was shown, discipline
for a time relaxed, gates were left ajar and the
soldiers and officers carelessly sauntered and look-
ed on, enjoying the sport. In the course of play,
and as a part of the pre-concerted stratagem, the
ball was so struck that it fell within the stockade
line of the fort. As if pursuing it, the players
came rushing to the gate. The soldiers, intent in
watching the play, suspected nothing. The Indians
now had an open way within, and instantly turned
from ball-players into warriors, and a terrifying
"whoop" was given. The squaws, as sharing in
the plot, were standing near with tomahawks con-
cealed under their blankets. These were seized,
*Baggatlway was their kind of ball game,
Alexander henry. 2l
and then followed a most shocking- massacre. The
surprise of the fort and the success of the red men
were complete.
The details of this dreadful event are vivid-
ly and harrowingly given by the English trader,
Alexander Henry, sojourning at the time, with his
goods, within the stockade, and who was a partici-
pant in the dreadful scenes and experiences. The
humble Henry may well be called the Father of
History, like another Herodotus, as far as this
episode is concerned. Excepting the very meagre
report of the humiliating capture made by Captain
Etherington, the officer in command, there seems
to be nothing but the narrative of this English
trader. His description of the fort, the purpose it
had been serving, the movements of the Indians
preceding the affair, as well as the minute descrip-
tion of the stratagem and its success, and the terri-
ble scenes enacted, is the chief source of informa-
tion; and one can take up no history of this period
and this locality without seeing how all writers are
indebted to his plain and simple narrative.
When the fort was captured by the savages,
he himself was hidden for the first night out of
their murderous reach, but was discovered the
next day. Then followed a series of experiences
and hair-breadth escapes and turns of fortune very
remarkable, while all the time the most barbarous
fate seemed impending, the suspense in which made
his sensations, if possible, only the more distress-
ful and torturing. It was not enough that his
goods were confiscated and his very clothes strip-
ped off his body, but his savage captors thirsted
22 EARLY MACKINAC.
for his blood. They said of him and their other
prisoners, that they were being reserved to "make
English broth. " After four days of such horrors
there came a turn which Henry says gave "a new
color to my lot. " During his residence at the post
before the massacre, a certain Chippewa Indian
named Wawatam, who used to come frequently to
his house, had become very friendly and told him
that the Great Spirit pointed him out as one to
adopt as a brother, and to regard as one of his own
family. Suddenly, on the fourth day of his cap-
tivity, Wawatam appeared on the scene. Before a
council of the chiefs he asked the release of his
brother, the trader, at the same time laying down
presents to buy off whatever claims any may have
thought they had on the prisoner. Wawatam 's
request, or demand was granted, and taking Mr.
Henry by the hand he led him to his own lodge
where he received the utmost kindness.
A day or two afterwards, fearing an attack of
retaliation by the English, the whole body of
Indians moved from the fort over to our island as
a place of greater safety. They landed, three hun-
dred and fifty fighting men. Wawatam was among
them, with Henry in safe keeping. Several days
had passed, when two large canoes from Montreal,
with English goods aboard, were seized by the
Indians. The invoice of goods contained among
other things, a large stock of liquor, and soon mad
drunkenness prevailed. The watchful and faithful
Wawatam told Henry he feared he could not pro-
tect him when the Indians were in liquor, and
besides, as he frankly confessed, "he could not
ALEXANDER HENRY. 23
himself resist the temptation of joining1 his com-
rades in the debauch." He-therefore took him up
the hill and back in the woods, and hid him in a
cave, where he was to remain hidden "until the
liquor should be drank." After an uncomfortable
and unrestful night, Henry discovered next morn-
ing, to his horror, that he had been lying on a heap
of human bones and skulls. This charnel-house
retreat is now the well-known "Skull Cave" of the
Island, one of the regular stopping places of the
tourists' carriages.
But we cannot follow trader Henry's fortunes
farther. In a relation between guest and prisoner,
and generally treated with respect, moving with
the band from one place to another, following the
occupation of a hunter, and taking up with Indian
life and almost fascinated by it, he at length finds
himself at the Sault, where soon an opportunity
opened for his deliverance and his return home.
Subsequently he made another trip to the country
of the upper lakes and remained for a longer time.
Of his good friend Wawatam, it is a sad tradition
that he af terwards became blind and was accidental-
lyburned in his lodge on the island at the Point,
formerly known as Ottawa Point, in the village,
then as Biddle's, and more recently as Anthony's
Point,
It may be that some have felt incredulous in
respect to Henry's thrilling tale. But there is
reason to think it entirely trustworthy. It is con-
tained in a book which he wrote, entitled "Travels
and Adventures in Canada and the Indian Terri-
tories, between 1760 and 1766." It was first pub-
24 EARLY MACKINAC.
lished in 1808, and is dedicated to Sir Joseph
Banks, "Baronet of his Majesty's Privy Council
and President of the Royal Society." Some copies
contain the author's portrait. It has long been
out of print, and copies of it to-day are very rare
and command a high price. Mr. Henry's residence
in his latter years was at Montreal, and he was
still living as late as 1811, an old man past eighty
years of age, hale and cheerful looking. He bore
a good name and an unquestioned reputation for
veracity among those who knew him. I have
already named him the Herodotus of this particular
period of history. By another person, an enthu-
siastic English visitor at Mackinac, over sixty
years ago, he was called also the Ulysses of these
parts; and of his book it was said it bore the rela-
tion to the Michilimackinac shores and waters
which the Odyssey does to the shores of Sicily.*
•The chronological order in which early travelers and visitors, who
have left any annals of their journeys, came to this region, may be
stated as follows: Niccollet, in 1634; Marquette, 1(571: L,aSalle and
Hennepin. 1079: L.aHontan. 1088; Charlevoix, 1721; Alexander Henry. 1702:
Capt. John Carver, 1766.
CHAPTER III.
The victory of the Indians over at the old fort
on the Southern mainland was nothing beyond a
shocking and atrocious massacre. It was utterly
barren as regards any permanent results, and the
status of supremacy was not changed. The stock-
ade had not been destroyed, and British troops
soon came and resumed possession. Subsequently,
however, the question of transferring the military
seat of the Michilimackinac region across the
Straits to our island came up, and was duly con-
sidered. Major Sinclair made a careful prelimi-
nary examination. In a letter written in October,
1779, he says: "I employed three days from sun to
sun in examining the Island of Mackinac, on which
I found great quantities of excellent oak, elm,
beech and maple, with a vein of the largest
and finest cedar trees I ever saw. * * The
soil is exceedingly fine, with abundance of lime-
stone. * * The situation is respectable, and con
venient for a fort." He also mentions that he
found on the island "a run of water, sufficient for
a saw mill."
He submitted drawings and cuts of the island,
and plans for fortification, to Gen. Haldimand, the
officer in command of the department, and whose
headquarters were at Quebec. The superiority of
the island, as a strong position against Indian
attacks, and Indian threats and insults, was pointed
85
26 EARLY MACKINAC.
out; also its advantages in having one of the best
harbors in the upper country, and as respects the
fishing interests likewise. It is thought, too,
that the transfer was somewhat connected, in the
British mind, with the American war of the Revo-
lution, which was then in progress. Sinclair spoke
of the "liability of being attacked by the Rebels,"
at the old fort, and that the place might "justly be
looked upon as the object of a separate expedi-
tion." As a precautionary measure, he made every
trader take oath of allegiance to the king, and to
hold in "detestation and abhorrence the present
unnatural and horrid rebellion." At any rate, the
garrison did not feel safe in a mere stockade of
timbers on the mainland. Gen. Haldimand ac-
cordingly gave orders for the removal. The fol-
lowing letter on the subject was written by him,
April 16, 1780, to Major DePeyster, formerly in
command of the old Mackinac fort, but who had
been transferred, the year before, to the command
at Detroit.*
"Sir — Having long thought it would be expedi-
ent to remove the fort, etc., from its present
situation to the Island of Michiliinackinac, and
being encouraged in this undertaking by advanta-
ges enumerated by Lt. Gov. Sinclair, that must
result from it, and the earnest desire of the traders,
♦Major DePeyster was of American birth, and had served in the
British army in various parts of this country, besides commanding at
Mackinac, and afterwards at Detroit. He held a commission for 77
years, and lived to the age of 98. He spent his latter years In Dumfries.
Scotland, the early home of his wife. During his residence there, he
and the poet Burns were great friends. Burns addressed one of his
fugitive poems to DePeyster,
REMOVAL TO THE ISLAND. 27
I have given directions that necessary preparations,
by collecting materials, etc., be made with as much
expedition as possible, as the strength of that post
will admit of. I am sure it is unnecessary to
recommend to you to furnish him every assistance
he may require, and that Detroit can afford, in for-
warding this work, farther than by giving you mv
sanction for the same, which I do in the fullest
manner. "
A government house and a few other buildings
were at once erected on the site of the present
village; the old block houses were built, and His
Majesty's troops took possession on the 13th of
July, 1780, Major Sinclair commanding, though
the entire removal was only gradually effected.
The Indians, as proprietors of the land, had
been first consulted about this occupancy, and
agreement and treaty terms were obtained. The
consideration was £5,000. Two deeds were
signed, with their mark, by four chiefs, in behalf
of themselves and all the Chippewas. One was to
be lodged with the Governor of Canada, and one to
remain at the island post; while the chiefs engaged
to preserve in their villages a belt of wampum
seven feet long, to be a memorial of the trans-
action. But it seems that after the work was
under way and the post established, the Indians,
showed discontent, and threatened the troops; and
so serious was the hostility manifested, that
Sinclair sent in great haste to Detroit for cannon.
The vessel was back in eight days, bringing the
guns, and as soon as she touched on the harbor she
fired a salute, and that "speaking out" by the
28 EARLY MACKINAC.
cannon's mouth at once settled the question, and
the poor Indians had no more to say.
The old site being abandoned (since when it is
often referred to as "Old Mackinaw." ) and the
garrison removed, the families of the little settle-
ment, could not do otherwise than follow the fort.
Many of the houses were taken down and trans-
ported piecemeal across the straits, and set up
again as new homes on the island. And hardly
were the settlers thus re-established before they
addressed a petition to the government, asking for
remuneration to compensate for the loss and ex-
pense incurred, on the ground that their removal
was in the interest of the State and the public wel-
fare. What response was made to this petition I
have found no record which tells.
The first commandant of the island. Major
Sinclair, was also known as Lieutenant Governor.
It appears that he had been appointed inspector
and superintendent of the English forts, and bore
some general civic position as representative of
the government, besides his military rank; also as
having charge of Indian affairs. Hence he is fre-
quently spoken of in the records as Gov. Sinclair, as
well as Major. It seems to have been on this ac-
count, as an officer with a more embracing scope,
rather than as of higher military rank, that he
superseded Major DePeyster, in command at old
Mackinac, in 1779. After the transfer he remain-
ed two years in charge of the new post. Sinclair
appears, from the style of his letters and reports, a
more cultured and better educated man than some
of his cotemporaries among the officers of that
CAPTAIN ROBERTSON. 29
period. But his services as a post commandant
and general manager of affairs, seem to have been
unsatisfactory, because of his lavish expenditures,
and because of "abuses and neglects in different
shapes, " as it was said. He was continually being
cautioned from headquarters in regard to his
financial transactions. For half a century and
more, after he left the post, the inhabitants con-
tinued to talk about his extravagance; and one of
the stories long current on the island, was that he
had paid at the rate of one dollar per stump for
clearing a cedar swamp in the government fields
at the west end of the village. It subsequently
appears that, on his return to England, this reck-
lessness in expenditure while on the island led to
his imprisonment for debt. He speaks himself, in
one of his letters, of being "liberated upon paying
the Michilimakinac bills protested. "
Major, or Governor, Sinclair was succeeded by
Captain Daniel Robertson, who seems to have been
in command from 1782 to 1787. This Robertson is
also called Robinson, and is the one whose name
will probably be always associated with the island,
and a figure mark in the guide books and the
traditionary stories — for when will "Robinson's
Folly '' cease to be visited and talked about?
The official annals of that time show a great
many of Captain Robinson's letters, written while
he was commandant of the post. He seems to have
been a rough-and-ready, energetic officer; not very
elegant in his style of composition or his orthogra-
phy, prosaic and practical, and perhaps not quite
fulfilling the sentimental and romantic ideal which
oO EARLY MACKINAC.
some of the legends and stories, connecting his
name with the "Folly,'' would suggest. In one of
his reports of this time, a very good plat is given,
showing the contour of the island and the location
of the fort, and the harbor bearing the name,
"Haldimand's Bay," named, presumably, in honor
of the English commander of the province.* In a
letter of April, 1783, the Captain commends the
climate of Mackinac as "preferable to any in
Canada, and very healthy;'' but he says "it is an
expensive place.'' He tells in 1784 of the wharf
being broken to pieces by the ice, so that no kind
of craft could be loaded or unloaded, but that he
set men to work and got it in repair. He adds:
"It was a very troublesome job." He wants to
know, he says, in one of his letters, whether or not
he is to "have any rum;" and again he says, he is
at a loss to know how he is to act at this post
without that liquor, and he is sorry he is "obliged
to cringe and borrow rum from traders on account
of Government." At another time he writes, "I
have had no rum this season, and you know it is
the Indian's God. " And yet again he pours forth
his complaint: "Rum is very much wanted here
for various purposes, particularly for Indians, and
I have had only seven barrels this twelve month."
However, it is but due to the Captain to say
that, unfortunately, he was not alone in this
opinion of the indispensableness of rum in the re-
lations of the whites and the military with the
♦The name was evidently given up after the Island changed Its flag
In the early days, subsequent, It was familiarly designated by the island
people as 'The Basin."
THE FORT GRADUALLY BUILT. 31
Indians. We find Major Sinclair, his predecessor,
as commandant of the fort, writing to General
Haldimand in 1781, as follows: "The Indians can-
not be deprived of nearly their usual quantity of
rum, however destructive it is, without creating
much discontent." There is a sad vein running
through all this early history, made by rum; first
as one of the government supplies to the Indians,
and next as an article of traffic. The poor red
men facetiously called it "The English Milk;" but
their more serious name for it was the truer one,
"Fire water."*
Robertson, (Robinson) was in command from
1782 to 1787. There are intimations of his having
been disapproved at Gen. Haldimand's head-
quarters. Captain Scott succeeded him — "sent in
the room of Robertson," as the record reads. It is
reported of Scott, that ' 'he gained infinite credit
at Mackinac but, poor fellow, his pocket had paid
for it." He was followed by Captain Doyle, who
seems to have remained in command of the post
until its delivery to the United States.
The fort was not built complete at once, but
gradually took on its dimensions and its strength.
In 1789, after an inspection by the Engineer's
Department, the fortifications, as originally design-
ed, were reported as being only in part executed,
and that the work had been discontinued for some
*H. M. Robinson in his interesting book, 'The Great Fur Lund,"
descriptive of the regions of the Hudson's Bay Company, says of the
Indians liquor, "It must be strong enough to be inflammable, for he
always tests it by pouring a few drops in the fire."
"The effects of ardent spirits in the lodge, are equal to the appear-
ance of a grizzly bear amongst them. "— Schoolcraft.
.32 EARLY MACKINAC.
years, and that in the mean time a strong picket-
ing had been erected around the unfinished works.
And again, as late as 1792, the plans were reported
as not yet finished; the officers' stone quarters were
only about half completed; the walls were up the
full height and the window frames in, but the roof
and floors wanting. (Sharp criticism was made,
too, by the officer then inspecting, on the whole
design of the fort.) And yet again, in 1793, the
commandant. Captain Doyle, writes concerning tin
"ruinous state of the fort, '' but says he purposed
"sending to the saw mill for planks, and would
give the Barracks a thorough repair, having re-
ceived orders from His Excellency, Maj. Gen.
Clarke, to that purpose;" also asking for "an
engineer and some artificers to render the misera-
ble fortress in some degree tenable "
It is not a fort of to-day's construction. It is
a military structure of a century ago, a memento
of the past, and replete in historic reminiscence.
As a fortification, it is a curious mixture of Ameri-
can frontier post and old-world castle. Its thick
walls and sally-ports, and bastions and ditch,
along with its old block-houses of logs, loop-holed
for musketry; its sloping path down to the village
street, buttressed along the hillside with heavy
masonry, above which grow grass and cedars up
to the foot of the overlooking old "officer's quar-
ters"— all this makes it a striking and picturesque
object, a sort of mountain fortress, and certainly
something unique in this country.
CHAPTER IV.
Although the war of the Revolution had been
fought, arid American independence acknowledged;
and the Treaty of Paris in 1783 had secured all this
upper lake country on the same boundary lines as
we have them to-day, yet it was thirteen years
afterwards before the American flag floated over
the island fort. It was the same also in respect to
four or five other posts which were situated on the
American side of the lakes. Washington, then
President, sent Baron Steuben to Gen. Haldimand,
commissioned to receive them; but Haldimand re-
plied he had no instructions from his government
to make the delivery, and that he could not even
discuss the subject. The Government, too, by
John Adams, our minister to England, had insisted
on the same, but without effect. England urged
in explanation of her course, that it was due to an
imperfect fulfillment on our side of some of the
treaty stipulations. It required another treaty
(this matter, however, being only one of many
points embraced in it) before the tardy transfer of
these stations on the confines was effected. It was
then agreed that on June 1st, 1796, they should
be evacuated by the English. Owing to delays on
the part of Congress, our occupation of the posts
was deferred beyond that date. As Washington
said in his address to Congress, December, 1796:
£3
34 EARLY MACKINAC.
"The period during the late session, at which the
appropriation was passed for carrying into effect
the treaty of amity, commerce and navigation, be-
tween the United States and His Britannic Majesty,
necessarily procrastinated the reception of the
posts stipulated to be delivered, beyond the date
assigned for that event." He adds: "As soon,
however, as the Governor General of Canada
could be addressed with propriety on the subject,
arrangements were cordially and promptly con-
cluded for their evacuation, and the United States
took possession of them, comprehending Oswego,
Niagara, Detroit, MichilimackinacandFt. Miami."*
In the case of Fort Mackinac, it was not until
October 2nd, of that year, that the actual transfer
was made.
But, besides negotiating with the English in
the recovery of Mackinac, the American govern-
ment had to deal with another class of proprietors
— the original possessors of the soil. Accordingly,
while the delivery of the island and post was still
pending, Gen. Wayne's treaty with the Indians,
(Treaty of Greenville) was made in August, 1795,
by which "a tract of land was ceded on the main,
to the north of the island on which the post of
M ichilimackinac stands, to measure six miles on
Lakes Huron and Michigan, and to extend three
miles back from the waters of the lake on the
strait." f Bois Blanc, or White Wood Island, was
also ceded as the voluntary gift of the Chippewas.
The Indians were to receive $8,000 annually, besides
$20,000 then distributed.
♦American State Papers. tHolmes' American Annals, Vol. 2, p. 402.
REPAIRS ORDERED. 35
Perhaps the unfinished state of the post, as
reported in 1792, and the complaint made of its
condition in 1793, and its sore need of repairs,
(referred to above), may be explained on the
ground that the English authorities, well knowing
it was within American lines, and apprehending
that it must soon pass out of their control, deemed
it unwise to incur any large expenditure on it.
In fact, we find Captain Robertson saying in a
letter, as early as 1784, that in compliance with
orders he had received, no more labor was given
to a post which by treaty had been ceded to the
Americans, than was necessary to ' 'command some
respect for the safety of the garrison and traders,
surrounded as I am by a great number of Indians
not in the best humor. " It is probable, therefore,
that when at length it came into our hands it was in
need of considerable attention, for we find Washing-
ton, in the same address to Congress just quoted
from, saying of these posts that "such repairs and
additions had been ordered as appeared indispen-
sable."* It is also probable that the American
force sent to occupy the post at the departure of
the British soldiers was quite imposing, as we have
Timothy Pickering, Washington's Secretary of
War, in his report of February, 1796, saying: "To
appear respectable in the eyes of our British
neighbors, the force with which we take possession
of these posts should not be materially less than
that with which they now occupy them. This
measure, " he adds, "is also important in relation
to the Indians, on whom first impressions may
have very beneficial effects. " * Accordingly, the
♦American State Papers.
36 EARLY MACKINAC.
first detachment to occupy Mackinac, as an Ameri-
can garrison, consisted of four officers, one com-
pany of Artillery and Engineers, and one company
of Infantry, Major Henry Burback being in com-
mand of the whole force. The British retired to
the island of St. Joseph, on the Canada side a little
above Detour, and established a fort there.
Following the change of flag and sovereignty,
nothing very stirring seems to have developed in
the island history during the years immediately
succeeding. It soon became, however, a great
commercial seat and emporium in the wilderness.
The chief commodity was furs. From an early
day this had been a business carried on by the
individual traders who went among the Indians.
Later many of those engaged in it combined, and
about 1787 formed the famous "Northwest Com-
pany, ** which became a most powerful organization,
and which "held a lordly sway over the wintry
lakes and boundless forests of the Canadas, almost
equal to that of the East India Company over the
realms of the Orient." Its headquarters was Fort
William, on Lake Superior, and the fields of
operation lay principally in far northern latitudes.
The success of this company led to similar enter-
prises in the territory lying south and west, with
our island as the head-center. There was a
"Mackinaw Company," and a "Southwestern
Company," which, uniting under John Jacob Astor,
became the "American Fur Company." This,
together with other lines of traffic which it stimu-
lated, made the island for many years a great com-
mercial seat. It is reported, for instance, for the
WASHINGTON IRVING'S SKETCH. 37
year 1804, that the goods entered at the Mackinac
Custom House yielded a revenue to the United
States of about §60,000.
While at this time our island was United States
territory, and the fort with its ever floating flag
was a visible token of its Americanism; the village
as a whole, with its Indian and French population
and its style of construction — much of its archi-
tecture being a kind of cross between the white
settler's hut and the Indian's birch bark lodge —
perhaps did not appear so characteristically
American. Let us look at its picture as drawn by
Washington Irving in his ' 'Astoria. " It is Mackinac
as seen in 1810. He is describing an expedition
under way for the far northwest and the head
waters of the Missouri, in the interest of Mr.
Astor's enterprises. The party had fitted out in
Montreal, under Wilson P. Hunt, of New Jersey;
and in one of the large canoes, thirty or forty feet
long, universally used in those days in the schemes
of commerce, had slowly made their way up the
Ottawa river, and by the old route of the fur traders
along a succession of small lakes and rivers, to our
island. Here the party remained about three
weeks, having stopped for the purpose of taking
on more goods and to engage more recruits.
Irving thus describes the place:
"It was not until the 22nd of July that they
arrived at Mackinaw, situated on the island of the
same name, at the confluence of Lakes Huron and
Michigan. This famous old French trading post
continued to be a rallying point for a multifarious
and motley population. The inhabitants were
38 EARLY MACKINAC.
amphibious in their habits, most of them being or
having been voyageurs or canoe- men. It was the
great place of arrival and departure of the south-
west fur trade. Here the Mackinaw Company had
established its principal post, from whence it com-
municated with the interior and with Montreal.
Hence its various traders and trappers set out for
their respective destinations about Lake Superior
and its tributary waters, or for the Mississippi,
the Arkansas, the Missouri, and the other regions
of the west. Here, after the absence of a year or
more, they returned with their peltries, and settled
their accounts; the furs rendered in by them being
transmitted, in canoes, from hence to Montreal.
Mackinaw was, therefore, for a great part of the
year, very scantily peopled; but at certain seasons,
the traders arrived from all points, with their
crews of voyageurs, and the place swarmed like a
hive.
"Mackinaw, at that time, was a mere village,
stretching along a small bay, with a fine broad
beach in front of its principal row of houses, and
dominated by the old fort, which crowned an
impending height. The beach was a kind of pub-
lie promenade, where were displayed all the
vagaries of a seaport on the arrival of a fleet from
a long cruise. Here voyageurs frolicked away
their wages, fiddling and dancing in the booths
and cabins, buying all kinds of knick-knacks,
dressing themselves out finely, and parading up
and down, like arrant braggarts and coxcombs.
Sometimes they met with rival coxcombs in the
young Indians from the opposite shore, who would
WASHINGTON IRVING'S SKETCH. 39
appear on the beaeh, painted and decorated in
fantastic style, and would saunter up and down, to
be gazed at and admired, perfectly satisfied that
they eclipsed their pale-faced competitors.
"Now and then a chance party of 'North-
westers' appeared at Mackinaw from the rendez-
vous at Fort William. These held themselves up
as the chivalry of the fur trade. They were men
of iron, proof against cold weather, hard fare, and
perils of all kinds. Some would wear the north-
west button, and a formidable dirk, and assume
something of a military air. They generally wore
feathers in their hats, and affected the 'brave. '
'Jesuis un homme du nord!"' — 'I am a man of the
north, ' one of these swelling fellows would exclaim,
sticking his arms akimbo and ruffling by the South-
westers, whom he regarded with great contempt,
as men softened by mild climates and the luxurious
fare of bread and bacon, and whom he stigmatized
with the vain-glorious name of 'pork eaters.' * *
The little cabarets and sutlers' shops along the
bay resounded with the scraping of fiddles, with
snatches of old French songs, with Indian whoops
and yells. "
But the reader must not think there was no
other side to the social life of the early Mackinac
of that period. Irving's picture is only that of the
wharves, and the floating population, such as the
manager of a water expedition, stopping over but
a little while, would be the most likely to see.
Although the resident population was very small,
there were, at the same time, the families of
settled homes, and with the social interests and
40 EARLY MACKINAC.
sympathies and pleasures common to American
village life — subject of course to many inconven-
iences and privations incident to their remoteness
in a wilderness world. I find a pleasing descrip-
tion written by a lady, who was taken to the island
when a child, in the year 1812, just before the
war opened and who spent the years of her girlhood
there. *
The houses of the village at that time, she
says, were few, quaint and old. Every house had
its garden enclosed with cedar pickets. These were
kept whitewashed, as also the dwellings and the
fort. There were but two streets in the village.
One ran from point to point of the crescent harbor,
and as near the water's edge as the beach would
permit — the pebbles forming a border between the
water and the road. (It will be remembered that
the water's edge in earlier years was considerably
more inland than now.) A foot path in the middle
was all that was needed, as there were no vehicles
of any description, except dog-trains or sleds in
the winter. There were no schools, no physician,
and no resident minister of religion. Occasionally
a priest would come on visitation to the Catholic
flock. In winter the isolation was complete.
Navigation closed usually by the middle of October,
and about eight months were passed in seclusion
from the outer world. The mail came once a month
"when it did not miss." There were no amuse-
ments other than parties. The children, however,
♦Mrs. H. S. Baird, who published her Reminiscences in a Green Bay
Newspaper, 1882, and found In the 'Wisconsin Historical Collections,"
VoL 9.
v
C*£
ANOTHER EARLY DESCRIPTION. 41
made houses in the snow drifts, and coasted down
hill. Spring always came late, and as it was the
custom to observe May day they often planted the
May pole on the ice. Once she records, for the 8th
of May, "Ice in the Basin good." She relates that
in the autumn of 1823, the ice formed very early,
but owing to high winds and a strong current it
would break up over and over, and be tossed to and
fro, until it was piled to a great height in clear,
towering blue masses; and all that met the eye
across to the opposite island were beautiful
mountains of ice. The soldiers and fishermen cut
a road through. This made a winter's highway for
the dog sleds, the passage winding between high
walls of ice, with nothing to be seen but the sky
above. Again, in other seasons, the ice would be
perfectly smooth. The exciting times on the Island,
she says, were when Le Caneau du Nord came. As
the canoes neared the town there would come
floating on the air the far-famed Canadian boat
song. The voyageurs landing, the Indians would
soon follow and the little island seemed to overflow
with human life. These exciting times would last
for six or eight weeks. ' 'Then would follow the
quiet, uneventful, and to some, dreary days, yet to
most, days that passed happily."
ft i a r { o
CHAPTER V.
The year 1812 brought our second war with
the mother country. In it our little island played
a part, and indeed it may be said to have "opened
the ball." The very first scene of the war was
enacted here. The two governments had been
under strained relations for some time before, and
on the 19th of June, of that year, the state of war
was declared by President Madison. It was a
mystery at the time, and something which excited
clamor and, in the frenzy of the hour, even insinu-
ations of treachery against high officials at Wash-
ington, that the English commanders in Canada
knew the fact so much in advance of our own.
One explanation is that our very deliberate Secre-
tary of War trusted to the ordinary postal medium
in communicating with the frontier troops, while
the agents of the English government sent the
news by special messengers. General Hull, com-
mander of the department of Michigan, said he did
not receive information of the fact until fourteen
days after war was declared; while General Brock,
the British commander opposite, had official
knowledge of it four or five days sooner. And
likewise Lieutenant Hanks, of our island post, was
in blissful ignorance of the fact, until he saw the
British cannon planted in his rear, just four weeks
after war had been determined upon.
THE FORT SURPRISED 43
The English officer, Captain Roberts, com-
manding at the Island of St. Joseph, on the near-by
Canada border, had received orders immediately to
undertake the capture of the strategic point of
Mackinac. He gathered a force, consisting of
Canadian militia (the English Fur Co's voyageurs
and other employees), and a large number of In-
dians, besides having the regular soldiers of
the garrison. The expedition was admirably
managed. An open attack in front would have
been impossible of success. So, secretly sailing
from St. Joseph, they landed, unperceived, on the
northwest side of the island, at 3 o'clock in the
morning, on the spot known ever since as "British
Landing. " The troops had an unobstructed march
across the island and were soon in position with
their cannon on the higher ground commanding
the fort in the rear, the Indian allies establishing
themselves in the woods on either flank.
The American commandant and his little hand-
ful of men then learned, at the same moment, the
two facts, that the United States and Great Britain
were at war, and that the surrender of Fort
Mackinac was demanded. Resistance was impos-
sible, and thus again the flag was raised over its
walls that had first floated there. Pothier, an
agent of the Northwest Fur Company, who ac-
companied the expedition and commanded a part
of the force, thus laconically reported it to Sir
Geo. Prevort: ''The Indian traders arrived at St.
Joseph with a number of their men, so that we were
now enabled to form a force of about two hundred
and thirty Canadians and three hundred and
44 Early mackinac.
twenty Indians, exclusive of the garrison. With
that force we left St. Joseph on the 16th, at eleven
o'clock A. M. , landed at Michilimackinac at three
o'clock the next morning, summoned the garrison
to surrender at nine o'clock, and marched in at
eleven" — just twenty-four hours after setting forth
on their hostile errand. He adds further, that
there were between two and three hundred other
Indian warriors who had expected to join the ex-
pedition, but failed; that two days after the capitu-
lation, they came. But he intimates that this band
was in an undecided state of mind and partly inclin-
ed to favor the Americans.
Captain Roberts, in his report to General
Brock, dated the day of the capture (July 17th),
says: 'We embarked with two of the six pounders
and every man I could muster, and at ten o'clock
we were under weigh. Arrived at three o'clock
a. M. One of those unwieldy guns was brought
up with much difficulty to the heights above the
fort and in readiness to open about ten o'clock, at
which time a summons was sent in and a capitula-
tion soon after agreed on. I took immediate
possession of the fort and displayed the British
colors."
As presenting an American account of the
surprise and capture, the official report of Lieut.
Hanks is herewith given. It was made to Gen.
Hull, his commanding officer, and was issued from
Detroit, whither the officers and men of the cap-
tured garrison had been sent on parole:
LIEUT. HANKS' REPORT. 45
"Detroit, August 12th, 1812.
"Sir: — I take the earliest opportunity to ac-
quaint Your Excellency of the surrender of the
garrison of Michilimackinac, under my command,
to His Britannic Majesty's forces, under the com-
mand of Captain Charles Roberts, on the 17th
ultimo, the particulars of which are as follows:
On the 16th, I was informed by the Indian interpre-
ter that he had discovered from an Indian, that the
several nations of Indians then at St. Joseph (a
British garrison, distant about forty miles) intend-
ed to make an immediate attack on Michilimack-
inac. * * *
'I immediately called a meeting of the Ameri-
can gentlemen at that time on the island, in which
it was thought proper to dispatch a confidential
person to St. Joseph, to watch the motions of the
Indians.
"Captain Michael Dousraan, of the militia, was
thought the most suitable for this service. He
embarked about sunset, and met the British forces
within ten or fifteen miles of the island, by whom
he was made prisoner and put on his parole of
honor. He was landed on the island at daybreak,
with positive directions to give me no intelligence
whatever. He was also instructed to take the in-
habitants of the village, indiscriminately, to a place
on the west side of the island, where their persons
and property should be protected by a British
guard, but should they go to the fort, they would
be subject to a general massacre by the savages,
which would be inevitable if the garrison fired a
46 EARLY MACKINAC.
gun. This information I received from Dr. Day,*
who was passing through the village when every
person was flying for refuge to the enemy. I
immediately, on being informed of the approach of
the enemy, placed ammunition, etc., in the block
houses; ordered every gun charged, and made
every preparation for action. About nine o'clock
I could discover that the enemy were in possession
of the heights that commanded the fort, and one
piece of their artillery directed to the most defense-
less part of the garrison. The Indians at this time
were to be seen in great numbers in the edge of
the woods.
"At half past eleven o'clock the enemy sent in
a flag of truce demanding a surrender of the fort
and island to His Britannic Majesty's forces, f
This, Sir, was the first information I had of the
declaration of war. I, however, had anticipated it,
and was as well prepared to meet such an event
as I possibly could have been with the force under
my command, amounting to fifty-seven effective
men, including officers. Three American gentle-
men, who were prisoners, were permitted to ac-
company the flag. From them I ascertained the
strength of the enemy to be from nine hundred to
♦The Post surgeon.
tAs to the difference in the hour which appears in these three
official statements, it is probable each writer had in mind some
different stage of the event. The question of the surrender of the
island had its preliminary stage at an earlier hour in the morning at the
old distillery at the western end of the village, between some of the
British officers and certain of the citizens, while the formal demand on
the post was not made until later in the day. And, ajain, Captain
Roberts may have noted the time of writing his demand at his own
headquarters and Lieut. Hanks the time It reached his hands.
LIEUT. HANKS' REPORT. 47
one thousand strong, consisting of regular troops,
Canadians and savages; that they had two pieces
of artillery, and were provided with ladders and
ropes for the purpose of scaling the works, if
necessary.* After I had obtained this information
I consulted my officers, and also the American
gentlemen present, who were very intelligent men;
the result of which was, that it was impossible for
the garrison to hold out against such a superior
force. In this opinion I fully concurred, from the
conviction that it was the only measure that could
prevent a general massacre. The fort and garri-
son were accordingly surrendered.
* * * *
'•In consequence of this unfortunate affair, I
beg leave, Sir, to demand that a Court of Inquiry
may be ordered to investigate all the facts con-
nected with it; and I do further request, that the
Court may be specially directed to express their
opinion on the merits of the case.
"Porter Hanks,
1 'Lieutenant of Artillery.''''
"His Excellency Gen. Hull,
"Commanding the N. W. Army.'''
It is not necessary to discuss the question
whether the surrender at Fort Mackinac, without
a show of resistance, was justifiable. The garrison
was but a handful of men. By no fault of his, the
*A discrepancy in the estimate of troops as made by opposing sides,
especially in reports from the battle field, is very common. A recent
History of Canada, however, (published in 1897), is inexcusably out of
the way, when it makes Captain Roberts" attacking force "less than two
hundred," as far as voyagrurs and regulars were concerned, and makes
no mention whatever of the large number of Indian allies.
48 EARLY MACKINAC.
Lieutenant in command had been taken entirely
unawares. The enemy were in overwhelming
numbers and occupying a position with their
cannon which commanded the fort. Their Indian
allies were waiting in savage eagerness for the
attack, and had the fighting once begun it would
have been beyond the power of the officers to re-
strain them.*
The capture of Mackinac, the first stroke of
the war, was of the highest importance to the
British interests. Valuable stores of merchandise,
as well as considerable shipping which stood in the
harbor, were secured. It gave them the key to the
fur trade of a vast region, and the entire command
of the upper lakes. It exposed Detroit and all
lower Michigan. It greatly terrified General Hull,
who commanded the department of Michigan. It
arrested his operations in Canada. He said: "The
whole northern hordes of Indians will be let down
upon us." His surrender, just one month later,
was in part due to the panic it caused — one histor-
ian of that day, saying: "Hull was conquered at
Mackinac."
On the island, the British proceeded at once to
strengthen their position. In order to guard against
any approach in the rear, like the successful one
they themselves had made, they built a very strong
earth- work on the high hill, a half mile, or little
more, back of the post, which they called Fort
George, in honor of the King of England. This
fortification still remains, now known to all visitors
♦John Askin, of the British storekeeping department, and present
with the besieging force, said,_that had the soldiers of the fort tired a
gun, he firmly believed not a soul of them would have been saved.
CONSTRUCTING FORT HOLMES. 49
as Fort Holmes. In its construction the citizens of
the village were impressed, every able bodied man
being required to give three days in the pick and
shovel work.
A common error prevails that this ancient
earth-work was actually constructed the very night
the British arrived, and that it made part of
the formidable investment of Fort Mackinac which
led to its speedy surrender. A moment's reflection
will show this could not have been the case. The
invading force only landed at three o'clock that
morning and then, with all their trappings, had to
march two miles to get into position, and yet were
ready by ten o'clock to open fire. It is probable
this hill was the "heights above the fort," to
which, as Captain Roberts says in his report, "one
of those unwieldy guns was brought up with much
difficulty;" and that far the Fort Holmes' site
figured in the demonstration against Lieut. Hanks'
command. The fortification itself, however, being
the scientific work of military engineers, and in-
volving a protracted period of hard labor, was con-
structed afterwards at the British commandant's
leisure. The other one of Captain Roberts "two
six-pounders," together with the great bulk of his
men, including his Indians, we may suppose, oc-
cupied the ridge of ground, part open and part
wooded, between the hill and the post, just beyond
the old parade ground, which lies outside the
present fort fence*
Captain Roberts was relieved, September 1813,
and Captain Bullock appointed in his place. Col.
McDonall assumed charge in the spring of 1814.
This officer's name often appears as McDouall.
CHAPTER VI.
By Commodore Perry's victory on Lake Erie,
and General Harrison's victorious battle of the
Thames, the autumn of 1813 found the Americans
in possession of Lake Huron, and nearly all of
Michigan. The re capture of Mackinac was deter-
mined on. In the early spring of 1814, an expedi-
tion for this purpose was planned, which, however,
did not get under sail until July 3rd, embarking
from Detroit that day. It was a joint naval and
military force. There were seven war vessels un-
der Commodore Sinclair, and a land force of 750
men, under command of Col. Croghan. The object,
besides the retaking of Mackinac, was also to
destroy the English post at St. Joseph, and to in-
flict whatever damage it could on the military
stores and shipping of the enemy on the neighbor-
ing border of Canada. These war brigs and other
vessels of the squadron were the largest ever seen,
up to that time, on the waters of St. Clair and
Huron. The commanders, instead of sailing at
once to Mackinac, concluded to first dispatch their
other errands. They found St. Joseph already
abandoned by the British, but they captured some
English schooners and supplies. They then turned
back for Mackinac Island, where they arrived on
the 25th of July. But no success awaited them
there.
The English fully appreciated the great value,
50
REINFORCING THE POST. 51
strategically and commercially, of Mackinac and
were determined to hold it. They took strong
measures for its defense. Col. McDonall, who had
been sent there in May of that year as the new
commandant, was a very energetic and skillful
soldier. He brought with him fresh troops from
Canada, ammunition and provisions, and other
things needful. Besides this fact, the garrison
were by no means ignorant of the expedition in
their northern waters, and of its object; and there
was no possibility of a surprise attack. One of the
officers belonging to the reinforcement which had
been sent to the post thus wrote: "After our ar-
rival at the island all hands were employed
strengthening the defences of the fort. For up-
wards of two months half the garrison watched at
night against attack. " The Indians from the sur-
rounding country, and Canadians here and there,
were called in for aid. Besides the additional fort
which they had built, Fort George, (now Fort
Holmes, and already referred to) batteries were
placed at various points outside the walls which
commanded the approaches to the beach. One
was on the height overlooking the ground in front
,of the present Grand Hotel, another on the high
knoll just west of the fort, while others lined the
east bluff between the present fort grounds and
Robinson's Folly.
Our American officers at first thought of erect-
ing a battery on Round Island and shelling the fort
from there. A yawl was sent with a squad of men
to reconnoitre, and a spot fixed upon. This was
seen by the English commander and he immediately
52 EARLY MACKINAC.
sent over a large detachment of Indians, who
forced the little party to flee. One of the men,
however, waited too long, tempted by the berries
which grew at his feet, and missed the boat and
was captured. The Indians rowed in with their
prisoner, chanting the death dirge and expecting
to dispose of him on the shore in their usual
barbaric manner; and in their wild frenzy of delight,
some of the squaws, before the canoe had touched
the beach, rushed into the water, waist deep, with
whetted knives raised aloft; to begin at once the
work of savage torturing. But the officer of the
fort, divining their object, had sent a squad of
soldiers to protect the hapless prisoner.
The extended level ground just west of the
village streets, was also considered as a point
where a landing could be made, and the taking of
the fort be attempted, under cover of the guns of
the vessels. But Captain Sinclair, who described
the fort hill as a "perfect Gibraltar, *' found that
his vessels would only be exposed to a raking fire
from the heights above without his being able to
elevate the guns sufficiently for return shots.
After hovering about the island for a week it
was concluded there was no other way than to
imitate the plan of the successful enemy, two years
before. So they sailed around to "British Land-
ing" and disembarked, August 4th, and marched as
far as the Dousman farm (now Early's farm). But
the conditions were entirely different from those of
two years ago, and the movement was ill-starred,
and a melancholy failure- According, however, to
the reports made by the joint commanders of the
FAILURE OF THE ATTACK. 53
expedition, it was not so much their plan to at-
tempt the storming of the works, as to feel the
enemy's strength and to establish a lodgment from
which by slow and gradual approaches, and by
siege, they might hope for success. All such ex-
pectations were soon dissipated. Facing the open
field on the Dousman farm were the thick woods.
This was a perfect cover to the Indian skirmishers,
who, concealed in their vantage points, hotly at-
tacked our soldiers; to say nothing of an English
battery of four pieces, firing shot and shells.
There could be neither advance nor encamping.
The only wise thing was to retreat to the vessels
This was done and the expedition left the island,
having lost fifteen killed and about fifty wounded.
Major Andrew Hunter Holmes, next in command
to Colonel Croghan, was one of the slain in this
most unfortunate and fruitless action. He fell
while leading his battalion in a flank movement on
the right. One story is that the gun which pierced
his breast with two balls was fired by a little Indian
boy. Another tradition is that the Major had
been warned that morning, by a civilian aboard the
vessel, not to wear his uniform which wrould make
him a target, but that he declined the friendly ad-
vice saying, that if it was his day to fall he wras
ready.*
Major Holmes was a Virginian, an intelligent
and promising young officer who enjoyed the
friendship of Thomas Jefferson. He had already
distinguished himself iri a battle near Detroit, and
had performed well a special service assigned him
*Charles J. Ingersoll in -Sketch of the Secund War," Vol. 2.
54 EARLY MACKINAC.
in this same expedition, when at the Sault St.
Marie. In the official reports of the Mackinac
battle he was referred to as that "gallant officer,
Major Holmes, whose character is so well known
to the war department;" and again as "the valuable
and ever-to-be lamented officer." His body had
been carried off the field and secreted by a faithful
negro servant, and the next day was respectfully
delivered to the Americans by Colonel McDonall
and taken to Detroit for burial. A very fitting
tribute to his memory was it, that when in the
following year the island again came under our
flag, the name of the new fort on the summit
heights, which had been built by the English, was
changed from Fort George to Fort Holmes.
The fort being found impregnable by assault,
no further attempts at capture were made, and the
expedition returned down the lake to Detroit, the
most of the soldiers being sent to join General
Brown's forces on the Niagara.
But the ambition to regain the island was not
yet abandoned. It was thought to starve out the
garrison and thus force a surrender. English
supplies could now come only from Canada through
the Georgian Bay. Near the mouth of the Not-
tawTasaga river at the southeast corner of that bay,
near a protecting block house, was the schooner
"Nancy" loaded with six months' supplies of pro-
visions intended for the Mackinac fort. A de-
tachment of the American troops landing there
blew up the block house and destroyed the
schooner and her supplies. There remained now
nothing more to do than to so guard the waters
SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS. 55
that the destitution of the island could not be re-
paired. Two of the vessels, the "Tigress'' and the
"Scorpion," were left to maintain a strict blockade.
This was proving very effective, and provisions ran
so low in Mackinac, that a loaf of bread would sell
for a dollar on the streets, and the men of the
garrison were killing horses for meat.
The following extract from a letter written by-
one of the English officers depicts the situation
within the fort at this time: "After the failure of
the attack, the Americans established a blockade by
which they intercepted our supplies. We had but
a small store of provisions. The commander grew
very anxious. The garrison was put on short al-
lowances. Some horses that happened to be on
the island were killed and salted down, and we oc-
casionally were successful in procuring fish from
the lake. To economize our means the greater
part of the Indians were induced to depart to their
homes. At length we saw ourselves on the verge
of starvation with no hope of relief from any
quarter. "
During all the summer we find Colonel Mc-
Donall in his letters to the department begging and
entreating for supplies.
There were yet other embarrassments. Al-
though thoughout the whole period the Indians of
the Mackinac region were allies of the British, the
alliance was not without its difficulties. Many of
them showed an indecision when success was
doubtful, as one of the English agents wrote, and
"a predilection in favor of the Americans seemed
to influence them." About the island "they be-
56 EARLY MACKINAC.
came very clamorous, " another officer said. And
Col. McDonall spoke of them as "an uncertain
quantity" — that they "were fickle as the wind and
it was a difficult task to keep them with us. " He
was embarrassed, too, by their flocking to the
island and requiring to be fed.
But relief, and that by their own sagacity and
daring, was at hand for the beleaguered garrison.
When the "Nancy" and the block house on the
Nottawasaga were destroyed, the officers in charge
of that supply of stores, Lieut. Worsley, with
seventeen sailors of the Royal Navy, had managed
to escape and effect a passage in an open boat to
the fort at Mackinac and had reported the loss of
the stores. Forced by the necessity of the situ-
ation, a bold and desperate project was undertaken
— that was, the capture of the two blockading
vessels. Batteaux were fitted out and equipped at
Mackinac, manned under Lieut. Worsley with his
seamen and by volunteers from the garrison and
Indians, making in all about seventy men. These
set forth on the bold errand. The Scorpion and
Tigress were then cruising in the neighborhood of
Detour. On a dark night, rowing rapidly and in
silence, they approached first the Tigress, which
lay at anchor off St. Joseph, and taking it entirely
by surprise, leaped aboard and after a hand to
hand struggle soon had possession. Its crew were
sent next day, as prisoners to Mackinac. The
Tigress's signals were in the hands of the captors,
and the American pennant was kept flying at the
mast-head. On the second day after, the Scorpion
was seen beating up towards her companion ship
BRITISH APPRECIATION OF MACKINAC. 57
unaware of its change of fortune. Night coming
on she anchored some two miles off. About day-
light the Tigress set all sail, swept down on her,
opened fire and boarded and captured her. Sad
fate, indeed, for these two war vessels, which only
a year before had honorably figured in Commodore
Perry's victory on Lake Erie. I prefer not to
dwell on the mortifying bit of history, except to
say that candor and justice compel our highest
admiration for this English feat of daring and
prowess.
This ended all attempts to dislodge the Eng-
lish from our island. It remained under their flag
until terms of peace and settlement were secured
by the treaty of Ghent, February 1815. Mackinac
was ever a favorite point in the eyes of the British,
and all along an object of their strong desire; and
they were loath to give it up. Col. McDonall,
the able and successful commandant, spoke with
strong feeling of the ' 'unfortunate cession of the
fort and the island of Michilimackinac to the
United States." It had been a matter of official
complaint and criticism in the province of Upper
Canada, that after the first war it had been "in-
judiciously ceded" by the English government.
John Jay, our American representative in the con-
ference of the treaty and the boundary lines,
found that the commissioners of the Crown were
more interested in an "extended commerce than in
the possession of a vast tract of wilderness." The
fur trade at that time was the main thing and
Mackinac was the gateway to all the fur traffic of
the west and southwest fields. And again, it ap-
58 EARLY MACKINAC.
pears in negotiating the treaty of 1815 that the com-
missioners of the crown, even when feeling obliged
to forego a large part of their demands, still held
out for the island of Mackinac (and Fort Niagara)
as long as possible.* Thirty-two years had now
passed since the American right to the island had
been acknowledged by the treaty of 1783. Of these
years only three had been years of war. But for
one-half of that whole period the British flag had
been flying over Fort Mackinac. In the complete
sense, therefore, the destiny of the northwest was
not assured until the treaty of Ghent, f With that
treaty the question was finally and conclusively
settled.
The posts of the English which had been captur-
ed by us, and ours here and there, which they had
taken, were to be restored by each government to
the other. In connection with this mutual delivery
is an interesting fact mentioned in a private
letter which Colonel McDonall wrote to his friend
and fellow officer of the English army, Captain
Bulger. He says that in the equipment of Fort
Mackinac, at the time he was making the transfer,
were cannon bearing the inscriptions: "Taken at
Saratoga;" ''Taken from Lord Cornwallis," and
other such, and he speaks of his chagrin in being
obliged to include, in his restoration of the fort,
guns which told of English defeat and humiliation
in the Revolutionary war; and that as an English-
man he felt "a strong temptation to a breach of
♦Henry Adams' '•History of the United States," voL 9, p. 34.
tHlnsdale's "Old lforthve$t." p. 185.
HISTORIC CANNON. 59
that good faith which in all public treaties it is in-
famy to violate."
Surely it adds to our antiquarian and patriotic
interest in the old fort to know that guns, captured
from Burgoyne and from Cornwallis in the battles
of the Revolution, once held position on these ram-
parts.
We do not know how these honorable trophies
of the Revolution ever found their way to our re-
mote pioneer out-post. We do know, however, that
our loss of the fort, three years before, explains
how they got back, temporarily, to their former
English ownership. And now in their alternations
of estate, after taking part in keeping off American
troops from the island, and thus, as it were, re-
deeming themselves in English eyes from the bad
fortune incurred in our war for independence, they
again fell to our hands. And we can appreciate
Col. McDonall's sense of regret at having to give
them up. It was the same sentiment which Capt.
McAfee, in his narrative of that war in which he
himself had a part, tells us was exhibited by eome
of the British officers when by Hull's surrender
several brass cannon fell to their hands which our
forces had captured in the war of the Revolution —
they "saluted them with tears."*
It is vain to surmise the history of those in-
teresting guns subsequent to 1815. How long they
remained at the island post, and whether in time
they were sent to the smelter's furnace, or are still
in honorable preservation somewhere with other
war relics, we cannot say. In this connection it
*" History of the Late War in the Western Country."
60 EARLY MACKINAC.
may be well to remark concerning that old fashion-
ed cannon which has been lying in position on the
village beach in front of the "fort garden," a
familiar object for generations past. The story is
that the gun figured in Com. Perry's battle on
Lake Erie, though whether one of his own guns in
the action or a British gun which ho captured is
uncertain; that it was left here long ago by one of
the government revenue vessels. That it was put
in charge of the Mackinac Custom House, and that
it used to serve on 4th of July and other national
occasions which called for celebration "at the
cannon's mouth."
Upon their withdrawal from Mackinac, the
English garrison established themselves on Drum-
mond's Island in the northern end of Lake Huron,
and maintained a strong post there. It was after-
wards decided, however, by the joint commission
ers in settling the boundary lines between the
United States and Canada, that that part of the
lake in which Drummond's Island lay belonged to
the United States side of the line. Accordingly in
1828 the British garrison removed, and the island
was turned over to our government.
Col. Anthony Butler was the American officer
to whom the fort was delivered July, 1815, but he
remained only until the arrangements for evacu-
ation were completed, when he withdrew to
Detroit, and Captain Willoughby Morgan became
the first commandant under the restored American
regime. From that time on there was a long
succession of regular army soldiers and officers,
inhabiting the old quarters and barracks. Many
SOME OF THE FORT'S EARLY OFFICERS. 61
of the officers who afterwards acquired high rank
and distinction during our civil war, 1861-1865,
either in the Union Army or Southern, had been in
service here as young Captains or Lieutenants.
Among them were Gen. Sumner, Gen. Heintzel-
man, Gen. Kirby Smith, Gen. Silas Casey, and
Gen. Fred Steele, for whom a fort in the west has
been named. General Pemberton was once a
member of the garrison, and in a private letter
written by one of the citizens in 1840, when the
little island was ice-bound and there was a dearth
of news, it is incidentially mentioned that "Lieut.
Pemberton in the fort is engaged in getting up a
private theatre, in an endeavor to ward off winter
and solitude," — the young officer little dreaming of
that more serious drama in which he was to act,
twenty-three years later, as commander of Vicks-
burg, with Grant's besieging army around him.
During the civil war, all troops being needed
at the front, the soldiers were withdrawn from our
fort. This was but temporary, however, and did
not mean its abandonment.* Its flag and a solitary
serjeant were left to show that it was still a military
post of the United States. This faithful soldier
remained at the fort for many years after the war,
and was known to the visitors as the ' "Old Serjeant. ' '
For a period during the war it was made the place
of confinement of some of theConfederate prisoners,
principally notable officers who had been captured,
at which time Michigan volunteer troops held it.
At the close of the war the fort resumed its old
♦Occasionally at other times, also, the garrison would be tempor-
arily sent elsewhere, but this never meant the giving up of the post.
62 EARLY MACKINAC.
time service as a garrison post, generally about
fifty or sixty men of the regular army, with their
officers, composing the force. A detachment would
serve a few years, then be transferred and another
would take its place, to enjoy in its turn the recup-
erative climate of the summer, and to endure the
rigors and the isolation of the winters. So the old
fort continued in use, with its morning and evening
gun, its stirring bugle notes, its daily "guard
mount," its pacing sentry, its drill, its ''inspection
days," until 1895. Then the sharp and decisive
voice of authority called "halt" to the long march
of military history in the straits of Mackinaw.
The United States government, by formal act of
Congress abandoned the fort, and gave it over,
together with the National Park of eleven hundred
acres, to the State of M ichigan. The fort was dis-
mantled, the old cannon were removed from the
walls, and every soldier withdrawn. We do not
question the fact, that as a fort constructed in
primitive times it was unsuited to the days of
modern warfare; nor the fact that with the numer-
ous other well equipped posts, the department is
maintaining for its troops, this old-fashioned one
was not an absolute necessity. Nor do we ques-
tion for a moment the propriety of making the
State of Michigan the legatee and successor to this
property, if the general government was determin-
ed to dispossess itself of it. It could not have been
more suitably bestowed, if it had to pass into other
hands. The commissioners, to whose charge it is
now committed, appreciate and will cherish that
historic and patriotic interest which attaches to the
ITS MILITARY HISTORY CEASES. 63
old fort, and will keep the grounds intact and care-
fully guard the buildings. They will aim likewise
to preserve the trees and the drives of the park in
that natural beauty which has so long given them
such charm. But while thus assured, it is at the
same time a matter of deep regret that the national
government should have forsaken the island. For
sentimental reasons alone, even had there been no
other, the old fort should have been retained as a
United States post. A military seat which has two
hundred years or more of history behind it, is not
often to be found in the western world. Indeed,
with the possible exception of Fort Marion, the
old Spanish fortification at St. Augustine, Fla., it
is doubtful if there be another on this whole conti-
nent, which could boast of so long a period of con-
tinuous occupation as old Fort Michilimackinac,
which was established first at St. Ignace in the
17th century, then removed to old Mackinaw, and
since 1780 has been located on our island.
v*«* #*
MartQ
CHAPTER VII.
Early Mackinac had among its citizens, sparse
though its population was, a number of men of
strong character and great business enterprise.
Among them, not to speak of all, were Michael
Dousman, Johu Dousman, Edward Biddle, Gurdon
S. Hubbard, Samuel Abbot and Ambrose Daven-
port. John Dousman, Abbott and Davenport were
the deputation of three gentlemen referred to by
Lieut. Hanks, in his report of the surrender of the
fort, as having accompanied the flag of truce in the
negotiations between Captain Roberts and himself.
After the English came into possession, the citizens
were required to take the oath of allegiance to the
king. Of those then living on the island, five are
reported as refusing to do this — Messrs. Daven-
port, Bostwick, Stone, and the two Dousmans.*
With the exception of Michael Dousman, who was
permitted to remain neutral, they were obliged to
leave their homes and their property until the
close of the war. Besides these, there were after-
wards three men in particular who figured in large
spheres, and were in reputation in other parts of
the land as well as in this remote wilderness point.
These were Ramsey Crooks, Robert Stuart and
Henry R. Schoolcraft.
Mr. Crooks came to America from Scotland, as
a young man. His carper was an active and
♦Biddle and Hubbard were not then residents of the island. 64
RAMSEY CROOKS. 65
stirring one. He was known in connection with
the fur trade, it is said, from the Atlantic to the
Pacific. His business involved much of perilous
journeying and startling adventure in the north
and in the far west. He was with Hunt's expedition
across the Rocky Mountains and to the Pacific
coast, as far back as 1811, and again the next year
he made the same overland journey back to the
East. He was an educated, intelligent man, well
experienced in human nature, and highly rated for
his judgment, his enterprise and his integrity.
He was one of Mr. Astors right hand men in the
extensive business of the fur company. In the
American expedition against the island in 1814, in
the attempt to dislodge the English, he, together
with Davenport and John Dousman, had ac-
companied the squadron — the latter two as expatri-
ated citizens, well acquainted with the waters, to
help as guides; and Crooks to watch, as far as he
could, the interests of Mr. Astor.* He did not
make Mackinac his permanent residence during the
whole time of his connection with the business,
but was more or less on the island and engaged in
its office work. New York, afterwards, was his
home; and on Astor's selling out, he, became chief
proprietor and the president of the company. It is
said of him that he concentrated, in his remi-
niscences, the history of the fur trade in America
for forty years. He died in New York in 1859.
♦Schoolcraft speaking of Davenport, (who, he says, was a Virginian),
refers to his thus "sailing about the island and in sight of his own
home." He remarks, too, that for his sufferings and losses, he ought
to have been remunerated by the Government
66 EARLY MACKINAC.
Robert Stuart was also a native of Scotland,
born in 1784. He came to America at the age of
twenty -two years, and illustrated the same spirit of
enterprise and adventure. He first lived in Mon-
treal, and served with the Northwestern Pur Co.
In 1810 he connected himself, together with his
uncle, David Stuart, with Mr. Astor's business,
and was one of the party that sailed from New
York by the ship "Tonquin" to found the fur trade
city of Astoria, on the Pacific Coast. In 1812, it
being exceedingly important that certain papers
and dispatches be taken from Astoria to New
York, and the ship in the meantime being destroy-
ed, and there being no way of making the trip by
sea, Stuart was put at the head of a party to under-
take the journey overland. Ramsey Crooks was
one of the band. This trip across the mountains
and through the country of wild Indians, and over
arid plains, involved severe hardships and peril,
and illustrated the nerve, and vigor, and resources
of the young leader. The party was nearly a year
on the way. In 1819 he came to Mackinac and be-
came a resident partner of the American Fur
Company, and superintendent of its entire business
in the west. He was remarkably energetic in
business, a leader among men, and a conspicuous
and forceful character wherever he might be
placed. In the lack of hotel accommodations his
home was constantly giving hospitable welcome
and entertainment to visiting strangers. He dwelt
on the island for fifteen years, and when the
company sold out in 1834, removed to Detroit. He
was afterward appointed by the Government as
ROBERT STUART. 67
Indian Commissioner for all the tribes of the north-
west, and guarded their interests with paternal
care. The Indians used to speak of him as their
best friend. He also served as State treasurer,
and at the expiration of his term of office was
trustee and secretary of the Illinois and Michigan
Canal Board. Active in great commercial and
public interests, he was also, subsequent to his
conversion on the island in 1828, zealous and prom-
nent in church work and always bore a high
Christian character. He died very suddenly at
Chicago, in 1848. His body was taken by a vessel
over the lakes to Detroit for burial. In passing
Mackinac the boat laid awhile at the dock, and all
the people of the village paid their respects to the
dead body of one who had been in former years a
resident of the island, so well known and so greatly
esteemed.
In connection with the Fur Company work of
the island, which these two men did so much to
promote, it may be well to quote from Mrs. John
Kinzie, the wife of a Chicago pioneer, who with
her husband was here in 1830. In her interesting
book "Wau-Bun, the 'Early Day' in the North-
west," she thus writes, speaking of that period:
"These were the palmy days of Mackinac. It was
no unusual thing to see a hundred or more canoes
of Indians at once approaching the island, laden
with their articles of traffic; and if to these was
added the squadron of large Mackinaw boats con-
stantly arriving from the outposts with the furs,
peltries and buffalo robes collected by the distant
traders, some idea may be formed of the extensive
68 EARLY MACKINAC.
operations and the important position of the
American Fur Company, as well as of the vast
circle of human beings either immediately or re-
motely connected with it."
Henry R. Schoolcraft lived on the island from
1833 to 1841. He was a native of the State of New
York. He was a student, an investigator into th«>
facts and phenomena of nature, a remarkable
linguist, a great traveler and explorer, and a
proline writer. He was given to archaeological
researches; he explored the valley of the
Mississippi; he investigated the mineral resources
of much of the west, particularly of Missouri; and
ho discovered the source of the Mississippi river.
His great work, and by which he is most known,
was that in connection with the Indian race, having
spent thirty years of his life in contact with them.
Besides his travels among the tribes throughout
the west and northwest, where his pursuits led
him, he was the Government agent in Indian affairs,
first at Sault Ste. Marie for eleven years, and then
at Mackinac for eight years." He mentions that
at one time over four thousand Indians were en-
camped along the shores of the island for a month ;
and that the annuities he paid that year amounted
to $370,000 in money and goods. He also served
in the negotiation of treaties for the Government
with the tribes. While living at the Sault, ho
married a half-blood Indian girl. Her father, Mr.
John Johnston, was an Irish gentleman of good
standing, who, dwelling in the wilderness country
of Lake Superior, had found a wife in the daughter
of an Indian Chief. Thisdaughter, Miss Johnston,
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. 69
had been sent to Europe while a young girl to be
educated under the care of her father's relatives,
and she became a refined and cultivated Christian
lady.
Mr. Schoolcraft in his eight years' residence
on the island, lived in the house known to all
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT, LL D.
readers of Miss Woolson's "Anne" as the "Old
Agency." He writes on his arrival: "We found
ourselves at ease in the rural and picturesque
grounds and domicile of the United States Agency,
overhung, as it is, by impending cliffs and com-
manding one of the most pleasing and captivating
70 EARLY MACKINAC.
views of lake scenery."* Every subject of scien-
tific interest, all the physical phenomena of the
island, and its antiquities and historic features, and
all questions pertaining to the Indians and their
race characteristics, their habits and customs, their
language, their traditions and legends, their
religion, and especially all that might lead to their
moral and social improvement — these were matters
of his constant study. At the same time he kept
abreast of the general literature of the day, read-
ing the books of note as they appeared and himself
making contributions to literature by his own
books and review articles and treatises, which
were published in the East and in England. In his
remote island home, ice-bound for half the year
and largely shut out from the world, he was yet
well known by his writings in the highest circles of
learning. Visitors of note, from Europe as well as
from the Eastern States, coming to the island, were
frequently calling at his house with letters of intro-
duction. He was voted a complimentary member-
ship in numerous scientific, historical and antiqua-
rian societies, both in this country and in the old
world. He had correspondents among scholars
and savants of the highest rank. His opinions and
views on subjects of which he had made a study
were greatly prized. The eminent Sir Humphrey
Davy, of England, for instance, expressed the
highest appreciation of certain contributions of
scientific interest which Mr. Schoolcraft had pre-
*In the minds of some now living on the island he has been confused
with his brother, James Sehooleraft. who also lived in the village and
was murdered by a John Tanner, in 1S1C.
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. 71
pared in his island home; and Charles Darwin, in
his work, "The Descent of Man," quotes with ap-
proval some opinion he had expressed, and calls
him "a most capable judge. " Prof. Silliman, also
ex-Presidents John Adams, Thos. Jefferson and
James Madison, wrote him letters of marked ap-
probation respecting a contribution he had written
for the American Geological Society. Bancroft
conferred with him before writing those parts of
his "History of the United States," which pertain
to the Indians, and was in frequent correspondence
with him; and Longfellow, in his Hiawatha Indian
notes, expresses his sense of obligation to him.
Some of Schoolcraft's lectures were translated into
French, and a prize was awarded him by the National
Institute of France. Among his frequent corres-
pondents, as he was an active Christian and in
sympathy with all church interests, were the
secretaries of different missionary societies in the
East, seeking his opinion and his counsel in refer-
ence to the location of stations and the methods of
work among the Indian tribes. The amount of
literary work he accomplished was remarkable,
especially in view of his public services, which
often required extensive journeys in distant wilder-
ness regions, and much of camp life. He was of
remarkable physical vigor and industry, however,
and it is said of him, that he had been known to
write from sun to sun almost every day for many
years.
Mr. Schoolcraft removed from the island to
New York in 1831, and after an extensive travel
through Europe, devoted himself principally to
72 EARLY MACKINAC.
literary work. He published about thirty different
books. These largely pertained to his explorations,
and to scientific subjects. The chief products of
his pen in respect to the Indians were his "Algic
Researches, " and later his very extensive "Ethno-
logical Researches among the Red Men," which
was prepared under the direction and patronage of
Congress. It is in six large volumes with over
300 colored engravings, and was issued in the best
style of the printer's art. It is a thesaurus of in-
formation, and furnishes the most complete and
authentic treatment the subject has ever received.
For nearly twenty years Mr. Schoolcraft lived at
Washington, and died there in December, 1864.
The Rev. Dr. Sunderland, for over forty years a
Presbyterian pastor in that city, has said of him:
'•He was a noble Christian man, and his last years
were spent in the society of his friends and among
his books * * a modest, retiring, unostentatious
man,but of deep, sincere piety and greatly interest-
ed in the welfare of mankind. "
CHAPTER VIII.
With the explorer, the trader and the soldier,
in the early days of the French occupation, there
came also the missionary. More than two
centuries ago pioneer Jesuit priests planted the
cross in these wilds of the upper lakes; first at
Sault Ste. Marie, as early as two hundred and fifty
years since, and then in 1671 in our Michilimackinac
region of St. Ignace,* on the northern mainland,
four miles across from the island. The latter work
is associated particularly with Marquette, who
founded it, and who was one of the most heroic and
devoted of the early missionaries who came to this
continent from France. He was a scholar and a
man of science, according to the attainments of that
day. It is said he was acquainted with six different
languages. He was held in reverent esteem, both
by the savages of the woods and by the traders and
officers of the settlements. To his culture, his re-
finement and his spirituality were added the en-
thusiasm and daring of the explorer. He went out
to find new countries as also to preach in the pagan
wilds. In 1673, accompanied by Joliet, he set
forth from St. Ignace with a small company in two
bark canoes, on a long voyage of discovery. He
struck out into Lake Michigan, thence into the
rivers of Wisconsin, and thence into the Mississippi,
and floated down that great river as far as to a
*Point Iroquois, as it was first known. 73
74 EARLY MACKINAC.
point some thirty miles below the mouth of the
Arkansas river, almost to the Louisiana line.
There the southern journey was ended and the re-
turn trip was begun — ascending the Mississippi,
entering the Illinois and thus reaching Lake
Michigan again. Bat for Marquette the trip was
never finished. He died at a point on the eastern
shore of that lake, about midway between its upper
and lower ends, and was buried there by his ever
faithful and devoted Indian companions. Two
years afterwards his body was exhumed and
reverently taken back for interment at the St.
Ignace Mission, which he had longingly desired
again to reach, but had died without the sight.
The discovery of his grave in the present town of
St. Ignace, in the year 1877, has given new interest
to that locality.
Following the temporary abandonment of the
French post of Michilimackinac in 1701, and the re-
moval of the settlement to Detroit, as already
referred to, the St. Ignace Mission was given up,
and the church burned by the priests themselves
in fear lest it should be sacrilegiously destroyed by
the savages. Subsequently, on the re-establish-
ment of the fort on the southern peninsula opposite,
the Catholic mission was revived and the Church
of St. Ann was organized — the church and the
entire settlement of families, as well as the garrison,
being within the palisade enclosure. When in
1780 the fort was removed to the island — and the
settlers following— the church was also removed,
its logs and timbers being taken down separately
and then rejointed and set up again. It stood on
MADAM LA FRAMBOISE. 75
the old burying lot south of the present Astor
House. Subsequently it was removed, to another
site. An addition was made extending its' length,
and the old church continued to stand until it gave
way to the present large edifice, built on the same
spot, in 1874. As an organization, however, the
church dates far back to the early days over at
old Mackinaw. The ground on which the building
now stands was a bequest to the parish by a Madam
La Framboise, who lived near by, with the stipula-
tion that at death her body should be buried under
the altar, in case the church should be removed to
the place indicated. This being done, the condi-
tions of the will were fulfilled. This Madam was
of Indian blood, and the widow of a French fur
trader. She is reported to have been a woman of re-
markable energy and enterprise, and on the death of
her husband ably managed the business he had left.
She acquired the rudiments of education after her
marriage, being taught by her husband, and in
later years made it a custom to receive young
pupils at her house to teach them to read and write,
and also to instruct them in the principles of her
religion. Her daughter became the wife of Lieut.
John S. Pierce, a brother of President Pierce, who
was an officer at the garrison in the early days,
1815-1820.
In the early times, the island being so remote
a pioneer point, and its population meagre, this
parish did not always have a resident priest, and
for much of the time could only be visited by one
at irregular and often distaut intervals. In 1782,
a petition signed by the merchants and other in-
76 EARLY MACKINAC.
habitants of the village, was addressed to General
Haldimand, the English Governor General of the
Province, asking that the Government take steps
to aid in securing a cure, or minister of religion,
for the stated maintenance of services. There ap-
pears nothing to show that this was granted. The
fur trade brought an element of population of a
very mixed character. There were the educated
officers and clerks of the company, and the
voyageurs and trappers, who spent most of their
time in the woods and on the water, with Mackinac
as their place of resting and wage- payment, and
the place of the reckless wasting of their hard,
earned money. One who knew well the early
character of the island, said of it, that few places
on the continent had been so celebrated a locality
for wild enjoyment; that the earnings of a year
were often spent in the carousals of a week or a
day; that the lordly Highlander, the impetuous
son of Erin, and the proud and independent
Englishman, did not do much better on the score
of moral responsibilities than the humble
voyageurs and courier des bois; that they broke gener-
ally, nine out of the ten commandments without a
wince, but kept the other very scrupulously, and
would flash up and call their companions to a duel
who doubted them on that point!
Protestant Missions in the west gradually took
shape as the settlement of the country advanced
from the sea-board. The Rev. David Bacon, of the
Connecticut Missionary Society, the father of the
late Dr. Leonard Bacon, preached on the island for
a short time as far back as 1802; not, however, es-
EPISCOPAL CHURCH ORGANIZED. 77
tablishing a mission or organizing a church. Then,
in 1820, the Rev. Jedidiah Morse, D.D., a Congre-
gational minister, the father of the inventor of the
telegraph system, visited the island, and made a
short stay. The same Dr. Morse was the author of
"Morse's Geography," once extensively used in
our schools, and still well remembered. In earlier
years the fort was a chaplaincy post, and the
clergyman in charge, the Rev. Mr. O'Brien, from
1842 until the opening of the civil war in 1861,
conducted stated services of the Episcopal form of
worship, which accommodated the people of the
village as well as the soldiers. Out of this work
grew the Trinity Episcopal Church, organized in
1873, under the ministration of the Rev. Wm. G.
Stonex, who continued for some years the resident
clergyman. For a time the parish held its Sunday
services in the fort chapel; then the old Court
House building was used, and in 1882 the present
Trinity Church building was erected, under the
leadership of the Rev. M. C. Stanley. This re-
mains still the only organized Protestant church
on the island. It has, generally, a resident clergy-
man in charge. The Rt. Rev. Thomas F. Davies,
D.D., bishop of the diocese of Michigan, being a
summer cottager on the island, frequently officiates
during the visitors' season.
To go back again to our earlier period. At the
time of Dr. Morse's visit to the island, he was
under commission by the U. S. government on a two
years' tour of observation and inspection among
the various Indian tribes with a view "to devise
the most suitable plan to advance their civilization
78 EARLY MACKINAC.
and happiness. *' * He arrived at the island, June
16th, in the evening, and writes of the view that
greeted his eye in the morning — * * "the fort look-
ing down from the high bluff, and a fleet of Indian
canoes drawn up on the beach, along which were
pitched fifty or one hundred lodges — cone-shaped
bark tents — filled with three or four hundred
Indians, men, women and children, come to receive
their annuities from the United States Government
and to trade. " He remained a little over two weeks
and preached in the Court House to large and at-
tentive audiences. A week-day school and a
Sabbath-school were formed for the children, and
arrangements effected for Bible Society and Tract
Society work. On his return to the East, the
United Foreign Missionary Society, learning of the
situation, took steps to plant a mission at Mackinac.
The island was considered a strategic point for
such operations, even as previously it had been a
strategic situation from a military point of view.
It was a central gathering place for the Indians for
hundreds of miles away as well as from near at
hand. The mission was established in 1823. The
Rev. Wm. Ferry, a Presbyterian minister from the
East, was appointed superintendent.
The Mission was designed chiefly as a school
for the training of Indian youth. It opened with
twelve pupils. The secoud year it numbered
seventy. Two years after the opening of the
enterprise the large school building and boarding
house, now the hotel at the east end of the island,
♦From letter of instructions written him by John C. Calhoun, Secre-
tary of War, Feb. 1820.
GOOD WORK OF THE SCHOOL. 79
and bearing the original name "Mission House,''
was built. In 1S26 the Society which had begun
the work and maintained it for three years, was
merged with the American Board of Commissioners
for Foreign Missions. Henceforth, until it closed,
the Mackinac Mission was the work of that Board
with headquarters in Boston. For several years
the attendance at the school averaged about one
hundred and fifty a year. Major Anderson, of the
Government service, writing in 1828, says that
when this mission building was erected it was
thought to be large enough to accommodate all
who might desire its privileges, but such was the
thirst for knowledge, that the house was then full;
and that at least fifty more had sought admission
that season who could not be received for lack of
room.
Besides the rudiments of English education,
the boys were taught the more useful sort of handi-
craft and trades, and the girls were taught sewing
and housework. They were at all times under
Christian influence, and were sj'stematically in-
structed in the truths of the Gospel. In the
Biography of Mrs. Jeremiah Porter, who before
her marriage was Miss Chappelle, and who spent
two years (1830-32) on the island, is given an ex-
tract from her diary, in which she speaks of visit-
ing the Mission House and hearing the young
Indian girls, at their evening lesson, repeat
together the 23d Psalm and the 55th chapter of
Isaiah, and of hearing a hymn sung "by sixteen
sweet Indian voices which was particularly touch-
ing." Thomas L. McKenney, of the Indian Depart-
80 EAIILY MACKINAC.
mcnt, gives another interesting glimpse of the
school in his book, "Sketches of a Tour to the
Lakes," published in 1827. He had been sent out,
the year before, from Washington as joint com-
missioner with General Cass in negotiating a trealy
with the Indians of the North. Having touched at
Mackinac he describes his calling,in company with
Mr. Robert Stuart, at "the Missionary establish-
ment in charge of Mr. Ferry." The school family
were at supper, and he writes, "we joined them in
their prayers, which are offered after this meal."
On another day he again visited the school, and re-
ported of it: "The buildings are admirably adapt-
ed for the object for which they were built. They
are composed of a center and two wings — the center
is occupied chiefly as the eating department and
the offices connected therewith. The western wing
accommodated the family. In the eastern wing
are the school rooms, and below, in the ground
story, are apartments for shoemakers and other
manufactures. In the girls' school were seventy-
three, from four to seventeen years old. In
personal cleanliness and neatness, in behavior, in
attainments in various branches, no children, white
or red, excel them. The boys' school has about
eighty, from four to eighteen. One is from Fond
du Lac, upwards of seven hundred miles. Another
from the Lake of the Woods. How far they have
come to get light !" Referring to the Superin-
tendent, Mr. Ferry, he speaks of him in terms of
unqualified approbation. "Few men possess his
skill, his qualification, his industry and devotion
to the work. Such a pattern of practical industry
THE MISSION CHURCH. 81
is without price in such an establishment. Indeed,
the entire mission family appeared to me to have
undertaken this most interesting charge from the
purest motives." He makes mention of Mrs.
Robert Stuart as ' 'an excellent, accomplished and
intelligent lady, whose soul is in this work of
mercy. This school is in her eyes, the green spot
of the island. With her influence and means she
has held up the hands that were ready, in the
beginning of this establishment, to hang down.
She looks upon Mr. Perry and his labors as being
worth more to the island than all the land of which
it is composed; whilst he, with gratitude, mentions
her kindness, and that of her co-operating hus-
band. "
Mrs. John Kinzie, already referred to as being
on the island in 1830, visited the Mission, and in
her book makes similiar testimony concerning it,
saying among other things: "Through the zeal
and good management of Mr. and Mrs. Ferry, and
the fostering encouragement of the congregation,
the school was in great repute. "
A church for the island soon grew out of the
school. It was Presbyterian in name and form.
It was a branch of Mr. Ferry's work, and he was
the pastor during the whole time he remained on
the island. A church building, the historic "Old
Mission Church," still standing in its original
dimensions and appearance, was built in 1829-30.
Mackinac in those days shared with Detroit in
distinction, the two towns being almost the only
places of note in the State of Michigan. The Fur
Company's business, together with the general
82 EARLY MACKINAC.
trading interests which centered here, brought to
the island a considerable population. Thus large
and interesting congregations were furnished for
this church. Besides the teachers and their
families, and the pupils of the mission school,
there were many families of the village, officers
and clerks of the company, traders, native Indian
converts and others, who were members in regular
attendance. The military post, too, used to be
represented — officers and men coming down the
street on Sunday mornings in martial step. The
soldiers would stack their guns outside in front of
the church; one of the men would be detailed to
stand guard over the arms, while the others would
file into the pews set apart for their accommoda-
tion.
The whole number of members enrolled during
the history of the church was about eighty, exclu-
sive of the mission family. As a pioneer church on
the wilderness frontier, it was remarkable in
having on its membership roll, and among its office
bearers as Ruling Elders, two men of such stand-
ing and public name as Robert Stuart and Henry
R. Schoolcraft.
The Mackinac experiment of mission work,
unfortunately, was not continued long enough to
show the largest results. Changes took place on
the island which seriously affected the situation.
It ceased to be the great resort for the Indians it
had been at first. The Michigan lands were
coming in demand for settlement; and the Govern'
ment was deporting some of the tribes to reserva-
tions farther West. Mr. Astor retired from the
STORY OF CHUSKA. 83
Fur Company, and that business lost its former
magnitude. This involved the loss of many
families and a change in social conditions. In
1834, Mr. Perry removed from the island,* as did
Mr. Stuart, the same year. Thus, for a variety of
reasons the place ceasing to be an advantageous
point for the work, it was deemed best to dis-
continue it; and about 1836 the land (some twelve
acres) and the buildings thereon were sold, and in
1837 the Mission was formally given up. During
the brief history of the school, however, not less
than five hundred children of Indian blood and hab-
its acquired the rudiments of education, and were
taught the pursuits and toils of civilized life, and
many became Christians. The American Board at
that time considered that the Mackinac Mission
had been very successful, especially in its out"
reaching influence throughout the surrounding
regions.
One instance of remarkable conversion in the
work of the Mission, was that of an old Indian
necromancer or "medicine man." His name was
Wazhuska, or more popularly, Chuska. For 40 years
he had been famous on the island in the practice of
that mysterious occultism which has often been
found among low and barbarous races. He was
supposed by his people to have supernatural
power, and indeed the instances which have been
reported of his strange facility, seem remarkable.
A sorcerer he might have been called, or, as such
have also been designated, a "practitioner of the
*Mr. Ferry settled at what became Grand Haven, in Michigan,
himself founding the city and also its Presbyterian Church, and con'
tiuu3<l to resits there until his death in 1 W.
84 EARLY MACKINAC.
black art. " He embraced the Christian faith with
clear perception of its essential truths, and with
great simplicity of spirit; and entirely renounced
all his "hidden works of darkness," together with
the vice of drunkenness to which he had been lam-
entably addicted, and after a year of testing and
probation was admitted to membership in the
Mission Church. He died in 1837, and was buried
on Round Island. This story of Chuska and his
conversion by the power of divine grace, was con-
sidered of such interest that we find it related by
Schoolcraft in three of his books — his "Personal
Memoirs," his "Oneota," (a collection of miscellany
which tells of Chuska under the heading "The
Magician of the Manitouline Islands,") and in his
elaborate six volume work published by act of
Congress. In his account of the case as given in
the last named publication he furnishes represen-
tations of the crude pictographic charms, and
totoms ar.d symbols, which Chuska was accustomed
to use in his pagan incantations, and which at the
time of his conversion he had surrendered to Mr.
Schoolcraft. The tale of Chuska is also told by
Mrs. Jameson in the narrative of her visit to
Mackinac in 1835; and in Strickland's "Old Mack-
inaw."
The Mission given up, the school closed, the
teachers and their families gone, the trade and em-
porium character of the village falling away, the
church organization did not long survive. There
was no successor of Mr. Ferry in the pastorate.
Mr. Schoolcraft, as an office bearer in the church,
and always actively interested in its welfare, did all
THE OLD CHURCH. 85
that a layman, so fully occupied as he, could do for
its maintenance, often conducting a Sabbath service
and reading a sermon to the people from some good
collection. But so largely losing its families by
removal, and unable under existing conditions to
secure a pastor, the church organization became
extinct. The church building, however, the "Old
Mission Church" as it is familiarly known to this
day, has survived for sixty years the lapse of the
organization. It is probably the oldest Protestant
Church structure in the whole Northwest. And
while other ancient church buildings have been en-
larged and changed in the course of years; an ex-
tension put on, or a front or a tower added, or other
material alterations made; this one, from end to end,
and in its entire structural form, remains the same
as at the time of its early dedication. It has stood
four square to all the winds that have blown, as
"solid as the faith of those who built it,;'* unchanged
from its original style and its bare and simple ap-
pearance, with its old weather-vane and its wond-
erfully bright tin-topped belfry — a mute memorial
of a most worthy history of two generations ago.
Despite its disuse and its increasing dilapidation, it
has long been an object of tender interest, and has
been visited by hundreds every season. It is gratify-
ing, therefore, to know that a number of the summer
cottagers and other visitors, joined by some of the
island residents, have purchased the old church,
and repaired and restored it so as to present the
old-time appearance in which it had been known
*Miss Woolson's "Anne."
86 EARLY MACKINAC.
for well nigh seventy years.* The gray weather-
worn exterior is purposely left unpainted. The
same old "high-up" pulpit, the plain square pews
with doors on them, the diminutive panes of glass
in the windows, the quaint old-fashioned gallery at
the entrance end — all these features appear as at
the first. The property is held in trust for the
purchasers by a board of seven trustees, five of
whom are to be visitors who own or rent cottages,
and two to be residents of the village. There is
no ecclesiastical organization in connection with
the building, nor any denominational color or con-
trol. The motive in the movement has been, first,
to preserve the old sanctuary as a historic relic of
the island and memorial of early mission work; and,
second, to use it as a chapel for union religious
services during the few weeks when summer
tourists crowd the island.
♦Repaired and restored in 1895.
CHAPTER IX.
Our Island in its dimensions is three miles east
and west, and two miles north and south. It has a
crescent shaped harbor, which gives the same out-
line to the village nestling on the rounded beach.
There can be few places so small and circumscribed
that can furnish so many pleasing impressions. In
its antiquarian interest, in its unlikeness to the out-
side world, in its dim traditions, and in its entranc-
ing charms of natural scenery , there is found every
variety for the eye, the taste and the imagination.
While small enough to steam around it in an hour
on the excursion boats, it is yet large enough to ad-
mit of long secluded walks through its quiet, gentle
woods. In the three score years or more that visi-
tors have been coming here, there have grown up
for it such tributes and terms of admiration as^
Gem of the Straits, Fairy Isle, Tourists' Paradise,
Princess of the Islands, and such like.
Rising almost perpendicularly out of the water,
one hundred and fifty feet high, with its white
stone cliffs and bluffs, and twice that height back
on the crest of the hill, and covered with the
densest and greenest foliage, it is an object of
sight for many miles in every direction. Through-
out we find that development and variety of beauty
which nature makes when left to herself. The trees
'are the maple, and pine, and birch, and old beeches
with strait and far-reaching branches and with
87
88 EARLY MACKINAC.
rugged trunks, on which can be seen initials and
dates running back many years — the mementos of
visitors of long ago. The hardy cedar abounds also,
and the evergreen spruce, larch and laurel, and
tamarack. Throughout the woods running in
different directions, are winding roads, arched and
shaded by the overhanging tree-tops, as if they
were continuous bowers, and bewitching foot-
paths and trails; the fragrance of the fir and the
balsam is everywhere, and a buoyancy in -the
atmosphere which invites to walking — the whole
tract being safe, always, for even children to
wander in. You come upon patches of the delicate
wild strawberry with its aromatic flavor, the wild
rose, the blue gentian, profuse beds of daisies,
said to be of the largest variety in America, the
curious "Indian pipes," luxuriant ferns in dark
nooks, forever hidden from the sun, and thickest
coverings of moss on rocks and old tree trunks.
Then always, from every quarter and in every
direction, are to be seen the great waters of the
lakes, so many ' 'seas of sweet water, ' ' as they were
described by Cadillac, the early French commander
in this region — Huron to the east and Michigan
on the west, with the Mackinac Straits between,
and all so deep, so pure, so beautifully colored;
and whether in the dead calm, when smooth as a
floor. or shimmering and glistening in the sunshine,
or in the silvery sheen of the moon at night, or
again tossing and billowing in the storm — always
exercising the power of a spell upon the beholder.
Ever in sight, too, are the neighboring islands,
standing out in the midst as masses of living green;
CURIOSITIES IN STONE. 89
and the light- houses with their faithful, friendly-
night work; and the young cities on the two
mainlands in opposite directions; and always the
picturesque old fort. Then, scattered over the
islands are glens, and dells, and springs, and fan-
tastic rock formations, ("rock-osities" they were
sometimes facetiously called in early days.) Many
of these formations are interesting in a geological
point of view as well as for their marked appear-
ance and their legendary associations; and two of
them, Sugar Loaf and Arch Rock, have been much
studied by scientists, and are pictured in certain
college text books to illustrate the teachings of
natural science.
On the eastern part of the island you come on
certain openings which the earlier French term-
ed Grands Jardins. Schoolcraft says no resident
pretended to know their origin; that they had
evidently been cleared for tilling purposes at a
very esrly da}r, and that in his time there were
mounds of stones, in a little valley near Arch Rock,
which resembled the Scotch cairns, and which he
supposes were the stones gathered out in the
preparation of these little fields. These openings
continued, at times, to be utilized for planting
purposes to a period within the memory of persons
now living on the island. For a long time past,
however, they have been left alone, and nature has
beautifully adorned them with a very luxuriant and
graceful growth of evergreen trees and parterres
of juniper in self -arranged grouping and order,
making each such place appear as if laid out and
90 EARLY MACKINAC.
cultivated on the most artistic plans of landscape
gardening.
For summer comfort — that is, for the escape of
heat and the enjoyment of sifted, clean, delicious
air — there can be no place excelling. As an old-
time frequenter once said of it: "It must be air
that came from Eden and escaped the curse. "
The immense bodies of water in the necklace of
lakes thrown about the island become the regula-
tor of its temperature. The only complaint that
visitors ever make of the climate, is that it is not
quite warm enough, and that blankets can not be
"put away for the summer," but are in nightly
requisition, and that the "family hearthstone"
claims July and August as part of its working
season. Malaria and hay fever are unknown. Dr.
Daniel Drake, of Cincinnati, an eminent medical
authority in his day, thus wrote from the island:
"To one of jaded sensibilities, all around him is re-
freshing. A feeling of security comes over him,
and when, from the rocky battlements of Fort
Mackinac, he looks down upon the surrounding
wastes, they seem a mount of defense against the
host of annoyances from which he had sought
refuge — the historic associations, not less than the
scenery of the island, being well fitted to maintain
the salutary mental excitement."*
The island has its legends, and folk-lore, and
traditionary tales of romance and tragedy. There
is not so much of this, however, as many suppose.
* "Treatise on the Principal Diseases of North America," p. 348.
"Hygeia, too, should place her temple here; for it has one of the
purest, driest, cleanest and most healthful atmospheres."— Schoolcraft.
SUGAR LOAF.
91
It is small in area and its scope for scenes, and
/tales, and associations is limited. Reference has
already been made to Arch Rock as the gateway of
1 entrance, in the Indian mind, for their Manitou of
''the lakes, when he visited the island, and to Sugar
SUGAR LOAF
/ Loaf as his fancied wigwam, and to other rock
formations which towered above the ground and
were personified into watching giants. The Devil's
Kitchen, on the southwest beach, has also been
mentioned, but as divested of all mystery and as-
92 EARLY MACKINAC.
sociation with the dim and early past. Chimney
Rock and Fairy Arch are but appropriate names
for interesting natural objects. The lofty, jutting
cliff known as Pontiac's Look-out, is undoubtedly
an admirable look-out spot, and is often so used
now, as it probably often was in the days of Indian
strifes when canoes of war parties went to and fro
over the waters of the Straits. But we can not
vouch for its ever having been Pontiac's watch-
tower; for although the influence of that chieftain
was felt in these remote parts, his home was near
Detroit, and while we read of his travelling to the
East and the South, and as having had part in the
battle of Braddock's defeat near Pittsburgh, we
find nothing to show that he had ever been so far
north as our island, or at least had ever sojourned
there. Lover's Leap, rising abruptly 145 feet
above the lake, is too good a pinnacle, and too
suitable for such sadly romantic purpose, as far as
precipitous height and frightful rocks beneath are
concerned, not to have suggested the tale of the
too faithfui, heart-sore Indian maiden. The story
of Skull Cave has already been told; and although
a piece of history, as far as the name of Henry the
trader figures in it, should be justly regarded with
as much interest as if it belonged to myth and
fable. But at the same time, with all the modifi-
cations which a sober realism may demand, there
is begotten in the mind of every one who breathes
the soft and dreamy air, and surrenders himself to
the witchery of the little island, an impression of
the wierd, and the mystical, and the poetic, however
little defined and embodied it may be. This im-
ARCH ROCK.
93
pression is increased in the sense of charm impart-
ed by the dim and shadowy past of a noble but un-
tutored race of nature's children in connection with
a spot of such rare attractiveness, and which, dis-
ARCH ROCK.
similar in formation and character from all the
other land about, seems as though it were separate
from the ordinary seats of life.
Arch Rock has long been celebrated. It ap-
94 EARLY MACKINAC.
pears as if hanging in the air, and as a caprice of
nature. It is a part of the precipitous cliff-side,
and stands a hundred and forty feet above the
water's edge. It has been accounted for by the
more rapid decomposition of the lower than of the
upper parts of the calcareous stone bank — which
process, however, it used to be thought, was fast
extending to the whole. McKenney in his ''Tour
of the Lakes," published in 1827, thus writes:
"This arch is crumbling, and a few years will
deprive the island of Michilimackinac of a curiosity
which it is worth visiting to see, even if this were
the only inducement. " The latter remark is most
true but we are glad he was so mistaken in the
first part of his sentence. The arch has survived
the unfortunate prophecy for seventy years, and
bids fair still to hold on. It is true, however, that
some portions may have fallen, and the surface of
the cross-way been reduced, since .the days when
boys played on it, and when, according to an early
tradition, a lady rode horse-back over the span.
Sugar Loaf is another curiosity in stone;
conical in shape, like the old-fashioned form in
which hard, white sugar used to be prepared. In-
cluding the plateau out of which it rises, it is two
hundred and eighty- four feet high, erect and
rugged, in appearance somewhat between a pyra-
mid of Egypt and an obelisk. Like the Arch,
it is a "survival of the fittest" — the softer sub-
stance about it being worn away and carried off
in the process of geological changes, and leaving
it solitary among the trees.
Robinson's Folly is the lofty, broad and blunt
ROBINSON'S FOLLY. 95
precipitous cliff at the East end of the island, one
hundred and twenty-seven feet above the beach.
The origin of the name is uncertain, save that it is
associated in some way with the English Captain
Robinson (Robertson) who belonged to the fort
garrison for seven years, and, as already mentioned,
was its commandant from 1782 to 1787. There are
no less than five traditionary stories, or legends, in
explanation of the name. These stories vary from
the prosaic and trifling, to the Yery romantic and
tragical. A common account is that he built a
little bower house on the very edge of the cliff
which he made a place of resort, and revelry may-
hap, in summer days; and that once, either by a
gale of wind or by the crumbling of the outer
ledge of stone, the house fell to the beach below.
One version of the legend has Robinson himself in
the house at the time, and, like a devoted sea
captain "going down with his ship," dashed to
death in the fall. Another is that on one occasion
when a feast and carousal were projected on the
cliff, and when the things of good cheer were all in
readiness, and the participants, led by their host,
delaying for a little their arrival, some lurking
Indians, watchful and very hungry, stole a march
on the company and devoured all that was in
sight.
The other tales are of a different hue. One is,
that once walking near this spot the Captain
thought he saw just before him, and gazing at him,
a beautiful maiden. In attempting gallantly to
approach her, she kept receding, and walking
backwards as she moved she came dangerously
96 EARLY MACKINAC.
near the edge. Rushing forward to her rescue,
the girl proved to be but a phantom and dissolved
into thin air, while the impetuous captain was
dashed to death on the rocks below. Yet another
is of this order: That Captain Robinson had been
one of the garrison force at the old fort across the
Straits at the time of the massacre in 1763, and had
been saved by an Indian girl who was exceedingly
attached to him. After removing to the island,
and bringing a white bride there, the Indian girl
followed him and dwelt in a lodge he had built for
her on the brow of the great cliff, nursing her
jealousy and revenge. She begged one last inter-
view with him before leaving the place forever.
On the Captain's granting this, and standing beside
her on the edge, she suddenly seized his arm in her
frenzy and leaped off, dragging him with her to
death.
There is one more of this harrowingly tragical
kind, in the attempt to explain the naming, which
had much currency in earlier days, and is given in
tourists' notes of sixty years ago: That Robinson
had married an amiable and attractive Indian girl,
Wintemoyeh, the youngest daughter of Peezhicki,
a great war chief of the Chippewas, and had brought
her to his home at the fort. This aroused the
deadly hatred of Peezhicki, who had reserved the
girl for one of the warriors of his tribe. Robinson
celebrated the marriage by giving a banquet feast
in his bower on the cliff. The bride was present,
and a company of guests. The father learned of
the feast and concealed himself in the cedar bushes
to shoot the man who had taken his daughter.
ROBINSON'S FOLLY. 97
A faithful sergeant, (the story even gives his name,
MacWhorter, ) was present and saw the Indian level
his gun. He sprang up to protect the Captain,
and himself received the shot and fell dead.
Robinson then grappled with the fierce chief, and
in the struggle the two men came dangerously
near the brow. The Indian, with his tomahawk
raised, took a step or two backward to get better
poise for his blow. This brought him to the very
edge. A piece of stone gave way and he fell, but
saved himself by catching at the projecting root of
a tree. The girl now seeing her husband safe and
only her father in danger, sprang forward to his
help. He was thus able to raise himself to where
she stood. Then seizing her around the waist, he
dashed off from the cliff and both perished to-
gether.
The first two of these stories concerning the
famous cliff, might very naturally suggest the
name "Polly." But the others smack more of
profound tragedy, spiced with romance. Of course,
Robinson was not in the massacre affair of long
before, across the straits; he being at that time in
army service, under Gen. Bouquet, against the
Indians in Eastern Pennsylvania. That he met
his death on the island by falling over the cliff, or
even in a more normal manner, is a supposition
only, without any evidence. There is reason to
suppose he still "lived to fight another day" after
leaving the island post. It may be added, too,
that at the period of his Mackinac command he had
already seen over thirty years of service in the
English army, and was no longer in the romance
98 EARLY MACKINAC.
and lively heyday of youth. There must, however,
have been something about a summer bower or
hut, and something about feasting, and something
about a dreadful fall, which illustrated the ''folly' '
of establishing a pleasure resort on the very brow
of a dreadful precipice. Viewed together, these
stories all become interesting as throwing some
light on the origin of myths, and as showing how
traditions, exceedingly variant, may yet have some
of the same threads running through them all.
But I would not philosophize. I simply rehearse
these stories, the trivial and the grave, and leave
them to the imagination and the choice of the
reader.
CHAPTER X.
Prom an early day the island's charm of
sylvan and water scenery and its delightful sum-
mer air, together with its historical associations
and its flavor of antiquity, gave it a wide-spread
fame. There are but few places anywhere in our
country that are older as tourist resorts. Seventy
and eighty years ago visitors were coming here,
despite the difficulty and tedium in that time, of
reaching so remote a point. Persor.s of high
distinction in public life and in the walks of litera-
ture, and travelers from foreign countries, were
often among the visitors; and our island has figur-
ed in many descriptive books of travel. As some
of these authors wrote so appreciatingly of the
island, and as those particular books of long ago
are now out of print and not easily accessible, I
think the readers of this sketch will be pleased to
see a few extracts. These writers all speak of
having known the island by reputation in advance
of their coming, and of being drawn by its ft r
In 1843, the Countess Ossoli, better know
our American Margaret Puller, of Boston, spc •
nine days in Mackinac, as part of a protracted
journey she made in the northwest, and which she
detailed in her book, "Summer on the Lakes."
She expressed in advance her pleasurable anticipa-
tion of "the most celebrated beauties of the island
of Mackinac;" and then adds her tribute to "the
99
100 EARLY MACKINAC.
exceeding beauty of the spot and its position."
She arrived at a time when nearly two thousand
Indians (and "more coming every day") were en-
camped on the beach to receive their annual pay-
ments from the government. As the vessel came
into the harbor "the Captain had some rockets let
off which greatly excited the Indians, and their
wild cries resounded along the shores. " The
island was "a scene of ideal loveliness, and these
wild forms adorned it as looking so at home in it."
She represents it as a "pleasing sight, after the
raw, crude, staring assemblage of houses every-
where sure to be met in this country, to see the
old French town, mellow in its coloring, and with
the harmonious effect of a slow growth which
assimilates naturally with objects around it. " Con-
cerning Arch Rock, she says: "The arch is per-
fect, whether you look up through it from the
lake, or down through it to the transparent
waters." She both ascended and descended "the
steep and crumbling path, and rested at the sum-
mit beneath the trees, and at the foot upon the cool
mossy stones beside the lapsing wave." Sugar-
Loaf rock struck her as having ''the air of a helmet,
as seen from an eminence at the side. The rock
may be ascended by the bold and agile. Half way
up is a niche to which those, who are neither, can
climb a ladder. " The woods she describes as
"very full in foliage, and in August showed the
tender green and pliant leaf of June elsewhere."
She gives us a view from the bluffs on the harbor
side: "I never wished to see a more fascinating
picture. It was an hour of the deepest serenity;
A SCENE ON THE BEACH. 101
bright blue and gold with rich shadows. Every
moment the sunlight fell more mellow. The
Indians were grouped and scattered among the
lodges; the women preparing food over the many
small fires; the children, half naked, wild as little
goblins, were playing both in and out of the water;
bark canoes upturned upon the beach, and others
coming, their square sails set and with almost
arrowy speed." And a familiar picture is this:
'"Those evenings we were happy, looking over the
old-fashioned garden, over the beach, and the
pretty island opposite, beneath the growing
moon."
A two-volume book, (published anonymously
and giving no clue to its author, except that he
was a practicing physician of New York City),
titled "Life on the Lakes, or a Trip to the Pictur-
ed Rocks," describes a visit to Mackinac in 1835.*
"Though the first glance," he says, "at any looked
for object is most always disappointing, it is not so
when you first see Mackinac. " A moonlight view
of the island from the waters, he thus describes:
"The scene was enchanting; the tall white cliff,
the whiter fort, the winding, yet still precipitous
pathway, the village below buried in a deep,
gloomy shade, the little bay where two or three
small, half-rigged sloops lay asleep upon the
water." It reminded him of descriptions he had
read of Spanish scenery, "where the white walls of
some Moorish castle crown the brow of the lofty
Sierra." In describing his stay on the island he
*The author is supposed to have been Dr. Chandler R. Gilman, of the
College of Physicians and Surgeons, New York,
102 EARLY MACKINAC.
makes interesting mention of a Sunday service he
attended at the Old Mission Church. He reports
the building as neat and commodious, though the
congregation was small. There was no Protestant
clergyman on the island, but Mr. Schoolcraft (the
ruling elder of the church) conducted the service
and read from some book a very good sermon.
The singing of the choir was excellent, and was
led by a sergeant of the fort. The whole appear-
ance of the congregation, he thought, was very
striking; officers and privates of the garrison, with
the marks of rank of the one class, and the plainer
uniforms of the other, were mingled together in
the body of the church; there were well-dressed
ladies and gentlemen of the village along with
those of simpler attire; and here and there were
Indians wearing blankets, and standing about the
doors were others of that race in their ordinary
savage dress.
He mentions in evident astonishment, and as
conveying a hint about the island climate, his
eating cherries and currants in Mr. Schoolcraft's
• "den in the month of September. And as a
of harmless pleasantry, we may give yet
am a t of his observations of sixty-two years ago:
"There are more cows in Mackinac than in any
other place of its size in the known world, and
ever;r cow has at least one bell."
English visitors in their tours of observation
through the United States were often drawn
thither — making the long journey to these upper
lakes, and stopping off to see the island of whose
fame they had heard. Captain Marryatt, first an
CAPTAIN MARRYATT.
103
officer of celebrity in the English navy, but more
known in this country as a novelist largely given
to sea tales, was here in the summer of 1837. In
his "Diary of America" he writes of Mackinac:
"It has the appearance of a fairy island floating
on the water, which is so pure and transparent
TANGLEWOOD
that you may see down to almost any depth, and
the air above is as pure as the water that you feel
invigorated as you breathe it.* The first reminis-
*Marryatt's admiration of the transparent waters suggests what i
find related of a certain lady of long ago. that once sailing in the harbor
and gazing with rapt fondness into the pellucid depths, she enthusiasti-
cally exclaimed; 'Oh, I could wish to "De drowned ia these pure, beauti-
ful waters! "
104 EARLY MACKINAC.
cence brought to my mind after I had landed was
the description by Walter Scott of the island and
residence of Magnus Troil and his daughters
Minna and Brenda, in the novel, 'The Pirate."
The appearance of the village streets, largely given
to sails, cordage, nets, fish barrels and the like,
still further suggested the resemblance to his
mind, and he says he might have imagined himself
"transferred to that Shetland Isle, had it not been
for the lodges of the Indians on the beach, and the
Indians themselves, either running about or lying
on the porches before the whisky stores."
There were also two lady visitors here from
England, in the days of early Mackinac: Mrs.
Jameson and Miss Harriet Martineau. Both have
high rank and distinction in English literature.
Each of them published her impressions of Mack-
inac after returning home. In their admiration
and enthusiasm for the island they could not be
surpassed by the most devoted American visitor
who ever touched these shores.
Mrs. Jameson is well known as the writer of
such books as, "Sacred and Legendary Art,"
"Legends of the Madonna," "Essays of Art,
Literature and Social Morals," "Memoirs of the
Early Italian Painters," etc. Miss Martineau
was of more vigorous intellect, and her writings
deal more with subjects of political economy and
social philosophy. She it was, too, who translated
and introduced into England the writings of the
French philosopher Comte. As both these books
which touch on Mackinac, written over sixty years
MRS. JAMESON. 105
ago, were descriptive of travels, and not of the
same general interest which attaches to their other
writings, they are now out of print and have be-
come rare.
Mrs. Jameson's visit was in the summer of
1835. She came up Lake Huron from Detroit by-
steamboat, and arrived in the harbor at early
dawn. She thus describes her first view of the
island as she had it from the deck of the vessel:
"We were lying in a tiny bay, crescent-shaped.
On the east the whole sky was flushed with a deep
amber glow flecked with softest shadows of rose
color, the same splendor reflected in the lake; and
between the glory above and the glory below stood
the little missionary church, its light spire and
belfry defined against the sky." She speaks of the
"abrupt and picturesque heights robed in richest
foliage," and of the "little fortress, snow-white
and gleaming in the morning light;" of an encamp-
ment of Indian wigwams, ("picturesque dormi-
tories, " she calls them) up and down the beach on
the edge of the lake which, "transfused and un-
ruffled, reflected every form as in a mirror, * * an
elysian stillness and balmy serenity enwrapping
the whole." And, again, we hear her speaking of
"the exceeding beauty of this little paradise of an
island, the attention which has been excited by its
enchanting scenery, and the salubrity of its sum-
mer climate. "
Mrs. Jameson made quite an extended stay at
Mackinac, the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Schoolcraft,
at their home in the Old Agency — "The house em-
bowered in foliage, the ground laid out in gardens,
106
EARLY MACKINAC.
the gate opening on the very edge of the lake.'*
She pictures Mrs. Schoolcraft with "features
decidedly Indian, accent slightly foreign, a soft,
plaintive voice, her language pure and remarkably
elegant, refined, womanly and unaffectedly pious."
ONE OF THE DRIVES
She saw the island throughout, taking tramps over
it and "delicious drives," and writes of it as "won-
derfully beautiful — a perpetual succession of low,
rich groves, alleys, green dingles and bosky
dales." After her glowing description, she sums
up by saying, "It is a bijou of an island. A little
MISS MARTINEAU. 107
bit of fairy ground, just such a thing as some of
our amateur travelers would like to pocket and
run away with (if they could) and set down in the
midst of their fish ponds; skull-cave, wigwams,
Indians and all."
Hc-<^ Miss Martineau spent two years in this coun-
try, traveling extensively through the States and
writing her impressions. She published t^o
I books as the outcome of this journeying, '•Society
in America," and afterwards, her "Retrospect of
Western Traveling." It was in July. 1836, that
she visited Mackinac, and it is in the first named of
these two books that she tells of it. She came by
way of Lake Michigan, from Chicago, traveling in
a slow- going sail- vessel, and approached the island
in the evening towards sun-setting time. As did
Mrs. Jameson, so Miss Martineau first pictures it
as viewed from the vessel: "We saw a white speck
before us; it was the barracks of Mackinaw,
stretching along the side of its green hills, and
clearly visible before the town camo into view.
The island looked enchanting as we approached,
as I think it always must, though we had the ad-
vantage of seeing it first steeped in the most
golden sunshine that ever hallowed lake or
shore. "
The day of her arrival was the 4th of July,
and, "The colors were up on all the little vessels
in the harbor. The national flag streamed from
the garrison. The soldiprs thronged the walks of
the barracks; half-breed boys were paddling about
in their canoes, in the transparent waters; the half-
French, half- Indian population of the place were
108 EARLY MACKINAC.
all abroad in their best. An Indian lodge was on
the shore, and a picturesque dark group stood be-
side it. The cows were coming down the steep
green slope to the milking. Nothing could be
more bright and joyous."
Describing the appearance of the village, she
took note of some of the old French houses,
"dusky and roofed with bark. The better houses
stand on the first of the three terraces which are
distinctly marked. Behind them are swelling
green knolls; before them gardens sloping down to
the narrow slip of white beach, so that the grass
seems to grow almost into the clear rippling
waves. There were two small piers with little
barks alongside, and piles of wood for the steam-
boats. Some way to the right stood the quad-
rangle of missionary buildings, and the white
missionary church. Still further to the right was
a shrubby precipice down to the lake; and beyond,
the blue waters."
She did not leave the vessel that evening, but
some of the party having met the commandant of
the fort, an engagement was made for an early
walk in the morning. So they were up and ashore
at five o'clock, and under the escort of the officer
they took in the beauties of the hill and the woods.
And thus she tells us of it: "No words can give
an idea of the charms of this morning walk. We
wound about in a vast shrubbery, with ripe straw-
berries under foot, wild flowers all around, and
scattered knolls and opening vistas tempting curi-
osity in every direction." Coming suddenly on
Arch Rock, which she calls the "Natural Bridge of
MISS MARTINEAU. 109
Mackinaw," she is "almost struck backwards" by
the grandeur — "the horizon line of the lake falling
behind the bridge, and the blue expanse of waters
filling the entire arch; shrubbery tufting the sides
and dangling from the bridge, the soft, rich hues
in which the whole was dressed seeming borrowed
from the autumn sky."
But especially charming and impressive, she
thought, was the prospect from Fort Holmes. As
she looked out on the glossy lake and the green
tufted islands, she compares it to what Noah
might have seen the first bright morning after the
deluge. "Such a cluster of little paradises rising
out of such a congregation of waters. Blue waters
in every direction, wholly unlike any aspect of the
sea, cloud shadows and specks of white vessels.
Bowery islands rise out of it; bowery promontories
stretch down into it; while at one's feet lies the
melting beauty which one almost fears will vanish
in its softness before one's ej-es; the beauty of the
shadowy dells and sunny mounds, with browsing
cattle and springing fruit and flowers. Thus, would
I fain think, did the world emerge from the flood."
After their early walk, Miss Martineau and her
party took breakfast with the courteous comman-
dant at one of the old stone quarters of the fort,
and sat a while on the piazza overlooking the
village and the harbor. In response to her in-
quiries about the healthfulness and the climate,
the officer humorously replied that it was so
healthy people had to get off the island to die; and
that as to the climate, they had nine months winter
and three months cool weather.
110 EARLY MACKINAC.
The sailing vessel on which the party were
passengers was bound for Detroit, and the Captain
had already overstayed his time. So they had to
leave that same day. In reference to her departure
she writes: "We were in great delight at having
seen Mackinaw, at having the possession of its
singular imagery for life. But this delight was
dashed with the sorrow of leaving it. I could not
have believed how deeply it is possible to regret a
place, after so brief an acquaintance with it."
And then she tells how she did, just what thous-
ands since have done, who after visiting the island
have regretfully sailed away from it: "We watch-
ed the island as we rapidly receded. Its flag first
vanished; then its green terraces and slopes,
its while barracks, and dark promontories faded,
till the whole disappeared behind a headland and
light-house of the Michigan shore."
We close Miss Martineau's tribute with this
comprehensive note of admiration: "Prom place
to place in my previous traveling, I had been told
of the charms of the lakes, and especially of the
Island of Mackinaw. This island is chiefly known
as a principal station of the great Northwestern
Fur Company. Others know it as the seat of an
Indian Mission. Others, again, as a frontier gar-
rison. It is known to me as the wildest and tend-
erest piece of beauty that I have yet seen on God's
earth."
THE END. Ill
Captain Marry att, who had read this descrip-
tion before his visit to the island (already referred
to) said, when writing his own impressions, "Miss
Martineau has not been too lavish in her praises of
Mackinaw. ' ' These testimonies by persons of wide
travel, and of cultivated taste and power of obser-
vation, and visitors as they were from another
land, come down to us very pleasantly from sixty
years ago.
I know an isle, an emerald set in pearl,
Mounting the chain of topaz, amethyst,
That forms the circle of our summer seas —
The fairest that our western sun hath kissed.
For all things lovely lend her loveliness;
The waves reach forth white fingers to caress,
The four winds, murmuringly meet to woo
And cloudless skies bend in blue tenderness.
The classic nymphs still haunt her grassy pools;
Her woods, in green, the Norseland elves have draped,
And fairies, from all lands, or far or near,
Her airy cliffs, and carving shores, have shaped.
Of old, strange suitors came in quest of her,
Some in the pride of conquest, some for pelf;
Priests in their piety, red men for revenge —
All seek her now, alone, for her fair self.
David H. Riddle.
J