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Full text of "The East of to-day and to-morrow"

THE EAST 

OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 



THE EAST 



OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 



BY 



HENRY CODMAN POTTER, D.D., LL.D. 



BISHOP OF NEW YORK 




NEW YORK 

THE CENTURY CO. 

1902 



Copyright, 1900, 1901, 1902, by 
THE CENTURY Co. 

Copyright, 1901, by The Churchman Co. 



Published October, 190S 



THE DEVINNE PRES 



TO 

JOHN PIERPONT MORGAN 

FINANCIER, PHILANTHROPIST, FRIEND 

TO WHOSE MUNIFICENCE 

THESE OPPORTUNITIES FOE OBSERVATION 
IN THE EAST WERE OWING, AND WHOSE 
CONSTRUCTIVE GENIUS, WHICH UPBUILDS 
AND NEVER PULLS DOWN, HAS INDICATED 
THE TASKS WHICH AWAIT WESTERN CIV- 
ILIZATION IN EASTERN FIELDS 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

i. CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUN- 
DERS 1 

n. THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES . . 41 

HI. IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 71 

iv. IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 103 

v. IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 139 
vi. INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 169 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN 
BLUNDERS 



THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND 
TO-MORROW 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN 
BLUNDERS 

THE traveler who has journeyed by 
steamboat from Hongkong to Canton 
by night wakes in the morning to a scene 
which he is not likely to forget. The condi- 
tions of life in China are unique in this, 
that they are but little limited by space. 
We are wont, in our Western world, to talk 
of the crowding and herding in great cities ; 
and in one aspect of these the East has no- 
thing to match them. The foundations 
there are so often insecure that buildings 
that climb up like ours into the air, with 
tens of stories piled, higher and higher, 
upon one another, are virtually unknown; 
but, on the other hand, we see, packed into 
a bullock-cart, huddled in a bamboo hut, 
literally heaped upon one another in a mud- 
walled hovel, in the streets, or on the road- 
side, numbers of people who ordinarily, in 



4 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

our world, whatever their circumstances of 
poverty or degradation, would not endure 
such crowding for an instant. This char- 
acteristic, however, in the Chinese reaches 
its climax when one sees their life in boats. 
And the startling idiosyncrasies of that life 
are revealed with no more comic or tragic 
distinctness both, in fact, are there often 
strangely and pathetically intermingled- 
than among the crowded denizens of a Chi- 
nese house-boat. 

And nowhere are these to be observed in 
more impressive proportions than in the 
great sluggish stream on whose banks is the 
city of Canton. Crowded as is the popula- 
tion of any Chinese city, Canton in this 
must surely be preeminent, and in the case 
of the great throngs that pack her dark and 
narrow streets and their darker and nar- 
rower habitations, this teeming flood of life 
overflows its bounds and spreads itself in 
a vast mass of boats on which tens of thou- 
sands of people pass their whole lives, men, 
women, and children almost trampling 
upon one another, and preserving them- 
selves from being crowded into the stream 
to drown by an ingenuity which is not easily 
intelligible. Indeed, as a matter of fact, 
they do not always succeed in doing so. 
Life is not accounted of much value in 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 5 

China ; and its enormous surplus of popula- 
tion, which under the present conditions 
the land can but poorly support, is depleted, 
whether by drowning or otherwise, without 
awakening much concern or causing much 
grief. 

On the morning when I first saw Canton, 
looking from my cabin window I found our 
steamer surrounded by an apparently end- 
less flotilla of Chinese house-boats, and 
stood fascinated by the almost myriad life 
with which they teemed. No one who has 
not seen it has ever seen anything like it. 
The boats are twenty or thirty feet long, 
and are shop, kitchen, freight-house, bed- 
room, nursery, store-room, all in one, with 
sometimes a family of fifteen or twenty 
persons to crowd and strive, eat and sleep, 
fight for the opportunity to earn their 
scanty wage, by day or night, and often to 
be born and die in them. The children 
swarm like ants, and almost before they 
can speak are tied to an oar and made to 
pull it. But when they are not tied thus 
they are sometimes hustled over the side of 
the boat. They sink out of sight, and that 
is the end of them. 

To this frequent occurrence there is, how- 
ever, one exception. Now and then you 
will notice a toddling little creature to 



6 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

whom is attached a small balloon. If it 
tumbles into the water the balloon supports 
it ; it is fished out with a long pole, cuffed 
and scolded by its irate parent, but saved. 
And this is simply and solely because "it" 
is a boy ! If it were a girl, the parent would 
see in its removal a gracious providential 
interposition, and would say, in the Chinese 
manner, "It is ordered." If one follows, 
now, along that slender thread that binds 
the Chinese house-boat boy to his balloon, 
he will find, I think, a clue to much of Chi- 
nese character and Chinese history. The 
people of China are not peculiar in prizing 
boys more than girls, for that, alas! is a 
characteristic of many Christian nations 
and families. They are, however, peculiar 
in their reasons for doing so. With us one 
wants to perpetuate his name ; to shield, by 
the industry or prowess of sons, the widow 
and daughters that he may leave behind 
him; or to join with his own energy and en- 
terprise that of another of his own name 
and lineage. But with a Chinese parent the 
concern is quite different. He expects, in- 
deed, that his son will take care of him in 
his old age, and, in fact, filial duty in this 
respect is carried to somewhat grotesque 
lengths, as is witnessed by a legend current 
in China that a married son, with whom 



CHINESE TEAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 7 

lived his widowed mother, said to his wife 
on one occasion : ' ' My income will not sup- 
port my mother, you and me, and our child. 
It is the will of Heaven, therefore, that we 
sacrifice our child to our mother, and we 
will bury it alive ' ' ; which on preparing to 
do by digging a grave in which they pro- 
posed to bury the child alive, they came 
upon a pot of gold which it was revealed 
was hidden there for their enrichment in 
reward for their filial conduct! But, as I 
have said, a boy's life is precious to a pa- 
rent not merely because of the care which 
he is bound to give a parent in his old age, 
but because it is the supreme duty of the 
son, after his parent is dead, to make the 
annual offerings upon which the conditions 
of the parent 's life beyond this world must, 
according to Chinese theology, depend. 
And so the little baby boy toddling about 
the crowded house-boat of the meanest 
peasant has a balloon fastened to his tiny 
person, not as a token of any especial ten- 
derness on the part of his parent, but rather 
in what might be called a forecasting spirit 
of other-world thrift, by means of which the 
parent provides for his future interests 
after he is dead. 

It is in this curious combination of indi- 
rection, insensibility, and selfishness that 



8 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

one must needs find the clue to a great deal 
of Chinese character. No one can come into 
contact with this people, see them in their 
own homes, or go ever so little below the 
surface of their national history, without 
recognizing that they are marked off from 
other races by certain wholly unique and 
quite distinctive traits. No more interest- 
ing or timely study than those traits can 
invite the Western student. 

Timely, I say, because whatever may 
have been the situation a little while ago, 
in the matter of the relations of China to 
the rest of the world, no intelligent ob- 
server can be insensible to the fact that not 
only have they begun to change, but that in 
the near future they are destined to be 
changed more and more rapidly. No one 
who is at all familiar with the attitude of 
the Western world, by which I mean, for 
my present purpose, the civilizations of 
Europe and America, can be ignorant of 
the fact that, to Western ideas, to com- 
merce, the arts, international intercourse, 
China was regarded fifty years ago as 
largely inaccessible. The Great Wall of 
China was commonly accepted as no inapt 
image of the great life of China. True, we 
had books like M. Hue's travels, as we have 
had since then Williams 's "Middle King- 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 9 

dom"; but as we read them we only re- 
ceived a fresh impression, concerning 
China and the Chinese, of impenetrability. 
Their manners, their traditions, their men- 
tal processes, all these seemed to be what, 
largely, their public highways still are im- 
passable. It is told by an acute and singu- 
larly just and impartial observer of these 
Orientals 1 that when the coolies in a par- 
ticular neighborhood in North China learn 
that a foreigner is journeying their way, 
they are in the habit of going out into the 
highways and digging holes and pitfalls in 
the roads which render them impassable. 
The unsuspecting stranger plunges incon- 
tinently into these, and then the neighbors 
appear with profuse protestations of sym- 
pathy and surprise, and having, with Ori- 
ental deliberation, pulled him and his bul- 
lock-cart out of the pit, fill the pit up at 
their leisure, and after the whole process 
is completed charge him a good round sum 
for their services. Not unlike this has been 
the experience of students and travelers in 
China, who have sought to find their way 
through the curious impasse of the Oriental 
mind, and who have vainly struggled to dis- 
cover the clues which would explain to them 
the manifold eccentricities of Chinese do- 

1 The author of " Chinese Characteristics." 



10 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

mestic and social life, the principles upon 
which its cities and provinces are governed, 
its rules of conduct regulated, its more 
serious views of human life determined. 

There is little doubt that, besides that ele- 
ment in all this which is unconscious and 
traditionally characteristic, there has been, 
with the Chinese people, a good deal of de- 
liberate intention. They have not wanted 
to understand us, and they do not wish that 
we should understand them. Sometimes, 
undoubtedly, it is true that what seems ob- 
scure in their modes of speech or of reckon- 
ing is only seemingly so, and that, at bot- 
tom, they are more accurate than we. A 
Western traveler in China was, on one 
occasion, loud in his indignation at the igno- 
rance, the stupidity, or the duplicity which 
represented to him that the distance be- 
tween two places was not the same from 
east to west as from west to east, nor the 
same in wet weather that it was in dry. But 
it was pointed out to him that distance in 
a journey was equitably measured by the 
time that it took to make it, and that a jour- 
ney from east to west must needs be longer 
if it was up-hill rather than down-hill, or if 
made in wet weather and over heavy clay 
roads rather than in dry weather. Nobody, 
it should be said in passing, will ever be 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 11 

just to the Chinese mind or to Chinese 
modes of expression who does not bear in 
mind the difference in Eastern and West- 
ern modes of thinking of which this is an 
illustration. 

But when this is said, it must still be 
owned by any one who has had experience 
of the children of the Flowery Kingdom 
that they are often purposely obscure, and 
that they do not always want to understand 
us or to be understood by us. Two tem- 
peramental peculiarities explain this, which 
are too often little accounted of. One is 
their enormous contempt for the outside 
barbarian, and the other is their imperturb- 
able contentment with their own life and 
land and all that belongs to them. One en- 
counters the Chinese often long before he 
has reached their own land. They are 
servants in a California household, work- 
men on some great Western railway or 
mining enterprise, or cabin-' ' boys " on 
some Pacific steamship. I wonder whether 
those who have met them under these vari- 
ous conditions are as sensible of their mild 
but unmistakable contempt as I have been. 
They may be perfectly civil and readily 
obliging, I have always found them so, 
but, beneath that mask of stolidity which 
one can almost never penetrate, there 



12 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

gleams sometimes an elusive hint of a cer- 
tain calm scorn with which they listen to 
you as you convey to them your wishes, and 
with which, with languid and machine-like 
accuracy, they fulfil them. "The best ser- 
vants in the world," cries some superficial 
and unobservant traveler ; and as one hears 
him he recalls that characteristic personage 
in one of Mr. Thackeray's "Letters to a 
Young Man about Town" (a classic for the 
instruction of our youth, which one could 
wish might be republished with every new 
crop of boys), where Mr. Brown is discours- 
ing to his nephew on the subject of the way 
in which wise women manage their hus- 
bands. "Your father, my dear Bob," says 
Mr. Brown, "thinks your mother a fool. 
Alas, poor man! How meek she is; how 
she never disputes with him; and yet with 
what a mild contempt for his masculine 
stupidity she most accurately measures 
and manages him!" But no woman's con- 
tempt for her husband ever matched a 
Chinaman's contempt for the "white 
devil ' ' who is his master. And the misfor- 
tune has been that, in our intercourse with 
these people, we have not recognized how 
natural and, from their point of view, how 
reasonable this is. "Young folks think old 
folks are fools, but old folks know that 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 13 

young folks are fools," is a proverb on 
which most of us have been reared; and 
yet we forget that to the Chinese the oldest 
of the Western nations is very young, and 
in fact vulgarly modern. 

You say to your Chinese domestic, ' ' Why 
did you not put salt in the fish-cakes?" 
And he answers you blandly, though 
greatly, it is to be feared, to your exas- 
peration, "We do not put salt in fish- 
cakes." But why should you be angry? 
His usages are some thousands of years 
older than yours. Indeed, he knows very 
well that a few hundred years ago, so far as 
you or your ways are concerned, there was 
neither ancestral habit, usage, nor custom 
to appeal to. And then, under all these con- 
ditions, he can keep his temper, and, too 
often, you cannot. Chinese imperturba- 
bility is surely without its equal. The sto- 
lidity of our own native Indians has been 
supposed to be preeminent, but any one 
who has seen the Chinese in their own land 
will recognize, I think, another and, in its 
way, a much higher quality than this; for 
ordinarily there is no sullenness in it, but 
rather a bland and beaming, if often irri- 
tating, good nature, which is as fine as it is 
exasperating. I was witness of a scene in 
an interior city in China which, as an illus- 



14 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

tration of this, was not without its elements 
of mortification for the foreigner who 
watched it. A party of Americans had 
gone into a leading shop and had selected 
various articles, for which, after having in- 
quired their prices, they offered a lump 
sum far below that asked for them. It was 
courteously but firmly declined, with the in- 
formation that the prices in the establish- 
ment were fixed, and that the rule was to 
make no reductions. I should be glad if I 
could forget the scene that followed, in 
which the things selected were rudely flung 
about, and finally some of them hurled at 
the proprietor's head with epithets more 
forcible than refined. But, through the 
whole odious scene, the shopkeeper was un- 
moved, and his placid and serene dignity 
undisturbed. One who realized what such 
self-command might easily cost could not 
but realize also what an element of power it 
must needs be in the race and people that 
possessed it. 

We come also here, I cannot but think, 
upon one of those large psychological facts 
which go so far to explain the history of the 
Chinese empire. Think of it for a moment ! 
There it has endured, all these thousands of 
years, undisturbed amid the tremendous 
revolutions that have upheaved other em- 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 15 

pires and changed the face of the civilized 
globe. One need not be unmindful of what, 
in the progress of civilization, has else- 
where conie out of national or racial rest- 
lessness, to recognize what a tremendous 
force of conservatism has been the Chinese 
conviction that one empire contained all in 
the world that was worth having, and that 
the only way to look at the rest of the world 
was to look down from the top of the Great 
Wall. 

But alas for such complacency ! the Great 
"Wall is rapidly becoming a crumbling ruin, 
and, even in the regard of its own people, 
is plainly destined to be, before long, no 
more than a venerable historic memorial. 
The processes by which this has thus far 
come to pass are a part of current history, 
and I need not do more here than cursorily 
allude to them. The first view of the ordi- 
nary traveler leads one, indeed, to suppose 
that the changes that are to transform 
China are coming to pass very rapidly, and 
the stranger entering the port of Shanghai 
or Hongkong concludes that the great Asi- 
atic empire has already largely lost its 
traditional characteristics. Nothing could 
be more remote from the facts. The treaty 
ports are no more than the homes and ware- 
houses of foreigners at least so much of 



16 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

them as at first strikes the eye; and the 
traveler has need to make but a short jour- 
ney into the interior, no matter where he 
may land, to find the teeming millions of 
the land untouched in any smallest degree 
by the habits, the beliefs, or the ideas of 
the outside barbarian. 

It is undoubtedly true, however, that 
this is not likely to continue ; and thought- 
ful observers and older foreign residents 
in China merchants, missionaries, and 
others were agreed, as far as I encoun- 
tered them, in their impression that changes 
hereafter would be likely to come much 
more rapidly than heretofore. But though 
prejudice has begun to yield, it is undoubt- 
edly true that it will not yield rapidly, and 
that anything like a progressive movement 
from within is far more improbable than 
among any other people in the world. 
When I entered China there were most in- 
teresting rumors of the rise and growth of 
the young emperor's party, of the interest- 
ing personnel of its leading adherents, of 
their wide reading of recent English and 
American literature dealing with questions 
of political, social, and sociological interest, 
of the aspirations of the youthful sovereign, 
and of the hopeful outlook in China for 
something answering to constitutional and 



CHINESE TEAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 17 

representative government. But in a few 
months the whole movement had appar- 
ently come to grief; the representatives of 
the "Young China" party were in hiding 
or fugitives; the dowager empress, it was 
said, had put an effectual extinguisher on 
the whole business, and our quondam guest, 
Li Hung Chang, was "strengthening his 
fences" on the old and cleverly corrupt 
lines. 

It is inevitable that any great social or 
political movement in China should be 
marked by such reactions. For, first of all, 
it must be remembered that of political 
unity, in our sense of the word, the empire 
of China knows little or nothing. Its vast 
and various provinces, extending from the 
frigid to the torrid zone, have no binding 
quality of custom, language, or religion. 
The dynasty that rules is a Tatar dynasty. 
But the Manchurian represents, rather, the 
greatest traditions of the empire. And this 
single illustration is sufficient to indicate 
what is true of the larger whole. Those of 
us in America who enjoyed the acquain- 
tance of Chinese students, merchants, or 
others resident in our own land during the 
war between China and Japan must re- 
member the surprising apathy with which, 
when we ventured to refer, sympatheti- 



18 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

cally, to Chinese naval or military disas- 
ters, our expressions of sympathy were re- 
ceived. We were calmly informed that our 
Chinese friends did not come from the 
provinces that had been invaded or the 
coasts that were threatened; that, in fact, 
they knew very little about them, and evi- 
dently cared less. The burning resentment 
with which an American would hear that 
foreign troops were landing upon the coast 
of Florida or invading the territory of Cali- 
fornia, though none of us might ever have 
seen, and did not know a soul inhabiting, 
the one or the other, this, apparently, was 
a sentiment which to a Chinese was incon- 
ceivable. And yet it is difficult to imagine 
how any great national movement can come 
to pass until a country, whether an empire 
or a republic, has what Kossuth called 
national solidarity. 

A still further difficulty in the way of a 
great movement in the direction of social 
or political progress in China is the large 
absence of any considerable discontent 
with existing conditions. The government 
of China has not inaptly been called a gov- 
ernment by "squeeze." In no community, 
common as bribery or corruption is in po- 
litical affairs, especially in the East, is 
there so much of it as in China. It be- 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 19 

gins at the top and extends all the way 
down. The emperor squeezes the gover- 
nors of provinces ; the provincial governors 
squeeze the magistrates; and the magis- 
trates squeeze the people. If you have a 
case before the local justice, who is ordina- 
rily magistrate, chief of police, and tax-col- 
lector all in one, you will do well to bring 
your little present with you. Often the 
magistrate takes a present from both sides. 
Sometimes he has the grace to return the 
gift of the man against whom he decides; 
but if you were to quote to him Solomon's 
aphorism to the effect that ' * a gift blindeth 
the eyes, ' ' he would blandly assure you that 
in his country, on the contrary, it quickens 
and clears the vision ; and the curious thing 
about the whole business is that, ordinarily, 
the suitor agrees with him, and that the 
community is, on the whole, entirely satis- 
fied with the present condition of things. 

Of course such a state of affairs is 
not universally prevalent; and, equally of 
course, the contrast between Chinese and 
European communities in close proximity, 
as, for example, at Hongkong, Shanghai, 
and elsewhere, must sooner or later impress 
the intelligent native, but far less than one 
would suppose. The Chinese hates our 
cleanliness, our wide streets, our police pro- 



20 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

tecting the feeble and restraining personal 
violence ; and, like a child in a nursery when 
you have put it in order, thinks that you 
have only spoiled what to him was fair. 
Tell him that, if he will let it, civilization- 
Western civilization will drain his towns 
and cleanse his dwellings and sanitize his 
whole life, where now he cannot move or 
breathe without filth and crowding, his an- 
swer is Mr. Harold Skimpole's, in "Bleak 
House," to the friend who, on visiting his 
apartments, exclaimed, "Why, Harold, you 
can't swing a cat here," "But I don't want 
to swing a cat here. ' ' And that attitude of 
mind, for the time being, at any rate, is 
an intellectual impasse you can go no 
farther. 

It cannot be disguised, however, that in 
these regards there are in China occasional 
tokens of progress, and that they are begin- 
ning to multiply. As producing these, 
there are various causes, such as the influ- 
ence of commercial intercourse, the intro- 
duction of Western scientific and mechani- 
cal inventions, but first of all, as many 
candid observers have frankly acknow- 
ledged, the influence of the missionary. I 
know how much challenge this statement 
may produce, but if the character of the 
witnesses and their testimony are consid- 



CHINESE TEAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 21 

ered, I believe it cannot be impugned. 
That there have been mistakes in mission- 
ary enterprises in China cannot, however, 
be denied, and these might, I think, in many 
cases where they are still persisted in, be 
wisely recognized and remedied, as they 
easily may be. In his interesting and, on 
the whole, impartial work on the East, the 
present viceroy of India, Lord Curzon, al- 
ludes with considerable reserve, but with 
sufficient explicitness, to some of these 
which have long existed. Generally they 
refer to the somewhat careless disregard of 
local or national prejudices by which our 
modern missions have been widely charac- 
terized. I confess I cannot see why such 
disregard should be indulged in. At home 
and among ourselves we are all agreed that 
people cannot always do things that are in 
themselves entirely innocent, if they are 
liable to be misunderstood; and it might 
well be a rule with all our missionary au- 
thorities that in the matter, for example, of 
the conventionalisms of mission stations, 
unmarried women, traveling missionaries, 
and the like, the missionary should not vio- 
late Chinese social conventions, which, how- 
ever contemptible they may seem to us, are 
too widely and deeply rooted in heathen 
lands to be lightly disregarded. 



22 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

Again, the modern missionary to a peo- 
ple whose nobility are its scholars should 
be a man of education and of refinement. 
The ceremonial of Chinese life is doubtless 
often irksome, but a man with not only the 
instincts but also the training of a gentle- 
manand, unfortunately, the two things 
do not always go together will not lightly 
disesteem it. 

And yet again, the modern missionary, 
like his greatest predecessor, the Apostle 
Paul, may wisely strive to understand and 
respectfully to refer to the religion that he 
has come to supplant. If it be true, as 
Christian scholars and missionaries have 
owned, that "no student of history, no ob- 
servant traveler who knows human nature, 
can fail to be impressed to the point of deep 
awe with the thought of the marvelous re- 
straining power which Chinese morality has 
exerted upon the race from the earliest 
times until now," 1 it would certainly seem 
to be worth while for teachers from other 
lands, who are invading China with the 
proclamation of a still higher standard of 
morality, at least respectfully to compare 
it with that which they aim to supplant. 
"It would be hard," says Dr. Williams, "to 
overestimate the influence of Confucius in 

1 "Chinese Characteristics," pp. 207, 208. 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 23 

his ideal princely scholar, and the power 
for good on his race which this conception 
has ever since exercised. The immeasur- 
able potency, in after ages, of the character 
thus portrayed, proves how lofty was his 
standard; and the national conscience has 
ever since assented to the justice of his por- 
trait." It is another Christian scholar of 
recognized authority who has said: ''The 
teaching of Confucianism on human duty 
is wonderful and admirable. It is not per- 
fect, indeed. But on the last three of the 
four things which Confucius delighted to 
teach letters, ethics, devotion of soul, and 
truthfulness his utterances are in har- 
mony with the law and the gospel. A world 
ordered by them would be a beautiful 
world. ' ' 

And yet the most ardent champion of the 
Chinese would not care to maintain that, in 
any such sense as this writer used the word 
' ' beautiful, ' ' the empire of China is a beau- 
tiful world. First of all, it is rotten through 
and through with political corruption. ' * To 
what purpose," said a Chinese official of 
himself and his associates, ' ' would you turn 
us out of office? If you did so, you could 
only replace us by successors who would 
steal more than we do." Again, it is 
weighted down by a social and moral apa- 



24 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

thy which is all the more appalling because 
it still worships its old teachers worships 
them while it openly and flagrantly disre- 
gards their teachings. There can be no 
moral debasement for a nation greater than 
this. 

And now, what of its future f As I began 
by saying, the doors that have been so long 
closed against other nations are at length 
being slowly forced open. England and 
Germany and France and Russia and the 
United States have all discovered a keen 
interest in this ancient people, and a touch- 
ing anxiety, each one of them, that the 
future of China should not fall into the 
hands of any of the others. With an almost 
sublime force of inertia China has resisted 
successive incursions, and has held fast to 
her ancient traditions with unexampled te- 
nacity. But now at last they are yielding ; 
and a beginning having been made, no 
one can now predict how fast the revolu- 
tionary forces of Western civilization may 
advance. When in Japan I was assured by 
one closely connected with a great embassy 
at Peking and warmly interested in our 
national successes that the efforts prose- 
cuted by a group of American capitalists 
with remarkable persistency to secure con- 
cessions for a great Chinese midland rail- 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 25 

way were inevitably doomed to failure. It 
was only three weeks later that, on the jetty 
at Shanghai, I was informed by an Ameri- 
can gentleman who had been largely con- 
cerned in conducting the necessary negotia- 
tions that the whole business of securing 
those concessions was then happily and sat- 
isfactorily concluded. 

Well, the rest will sooner or later follow, 
not speedily, it may be, but nevertheless in- 
evitably. When the late Mr. Brigham' 
Young gave in his adhesion to the construc- 
tion of a branch of the Union Pacific Rail- 
way from Ogden to Salt Lake City, a 
shrewd observer is reported to have said, 
''That means the death of Mormonism," 
and he was right. Mormonism, it may be 
urged, still survives, but only as an extinct 
memorial of a strange delusion and a very 
clever leader. And little by little, as mod- 
ern ideas, fashions, freedoms, push their 
way into the heart of China, the vast organ- 
ism will begin to take on a new life ; and as 
the blood of other peoples flows through its 
traffic, its arts, its literature, its pleasures, 
its laws and customs, China will begin to 
take on not only new manners, but new 
morals and new ideals. 

Will they be better or worse? Would 
that one could be quite sure about that! 



26 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

But alas ! there cannot be racial tranf usions 
without the consequences that forever at- 
tach to such processes. A clever writer, 
whose work it was my fortune to encounter 
for the first time in the Chinese seas, pub- 
lished, not long ago, the story of a poet who, 
when lying mortally ill, was by a clever 
suggestion all but miraculously revived by 
the transfusion of a considerable amount 
of blood drawn from the arm of a coster- 
monger. He recovers rapidly, and returns 
speedily to rude health. But, to his dismay, 
he discovers not only that he has lost his 
taste for claret and developed an inordinate 
thirst for beer, but that his poetry has taken 
on a redundancy of most atrocious slang, 
without the employment of which he finds 
it impossible to write a line. 

The illustration may seem extravagant, 
but it certainly has a message for Western 
nations that are to-day dealing with an 
effete civilization. We may give China 
railways and manufactories, and a thou- 
sand cheap and clever inventions which are, 
it sometimes seems, the dominant note of 
our Western civilization. We may make 
them discontented with their own simpler 
customs and their more frugal and infre- 
quent personal indulgences. More than 
this, we may not only sell to them the 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 27 

weapons of war and armed ships and the 
rest, but we may which is quite another 
thing teach them how to use them. The 
question still remains, and it is, as I shall 
endeavor to show, quite a different question 
in China from what it is, for example, in 
India, what will they do with this new 
knowledge and these new powers? Multi- 
ply the open doors into China, and you must 
needs multiply the doors that open out of 
China; and has the American nation ever 
realized that the time may easily come when 
the question whether the Chinese will come 
here, or go or stay, may be taken altogether 
out of our keeping, and that by the Chinese 
themselves? I do not underestimate our 
numbers, our wealth, our prowess; but in 
the long run, in warfare, Napoleon's pro- 
fane maxim as to Providence and the 
strongest battalions has in it a grim ele- 
ment of truth. Nobody appears to be quite 
clear how many people there are in China; 
but it seems generally to be agreed that 
there are at least some four hundred mil- 
lions, and these four hundred millions have 
one very considerable element of superi- 
ority as fighters over Western peoples 
they are profoundly indifferent to pain or 
death. It may be well for us to realize 
that, after we have civilized them by grid- 



28 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

ironing their land with railways and filling 
their homes with "Yankee notions," we 
may have to reckon with a Chinese dragon 
of proportions rather more formidable than 
those that are rampant at the doors of Chi- 
nese temples. 

But surely there is a nobler view, whe- 
ther of our opportunities or of their risks, 
than this. However much China may 
want open ports and machinery and im- 
proved sanitary conditions in streets and 
houses, she wants some other things in- 
finitely more. One of these is the awaken- 
ing of her human sympathies. In the ab- 
sence or paralysis of these the testimony 
of those who know her best would seem to 
show that she has no match. It is enough 
to be seized with a contagious disease in 
China to be practically abandoned. The 
sick person is placed in a solitary room with 
a jug of water; the door is shut and fas- 
tened, and the only attention he gets is 
twice a day, when some one peers in 
through a narrow opening and prods the 
patient with a pole to see whether he is not 
yet dead. The author of "Chinese Char- 
acteristics," who has drawn for us, I be- 
lieve, much the most vivid and accurate 
portrait of the Chinese people, relates how 
it is customary for one afflicted with any 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 29 

natural or acquired blemish or defect to be 
reminded of the fact. 1 One of the mildest 
forms of this practice is that in which the 
peculiarity is employed as a description 
in such a way as to attract public atten- 
tion. "Great elder brother with the pock- 
marks," says an attendant in a dispensary 
to a patient, "from what village do you 
come?" It will not be singular if the man 
whose eyes are afflicted with strabismus 
hears an observation to the effect that 
"when the eyes look asquint the heart is 
askew," or if the man who has no hair is 
reminded that "out of ten bald men nine 
are deceitful, and the other would be also 
if he were not a fool." In this instance 
there is not only that indifference which is 
careless how it gives pain, but that insensi- 
bility which is unable to perceive how in- 
consistent is such unfeeling speech with 
even the most elemental principles of good 
manners. And marching with such charac- 
teristics is the national indifference to the 
sufferings of children, especially if they be 
girls, and to women, invariably if they be 
daughters-in-law. With an enormous cere- 
monial in all their social intercourse, the 
neglect or impatience of which on the part 
of foreigners fills the Chinese with an im- 

1 " Chinese Characteristics," p. 197. 



30 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

mense contempt, there is ordinarily the 
most profound indifference concerning the 
griefs and misfortunes that touch anybody 
else than their own family. 

And, along with this characteristic, in 
such marked contrast with the ruling ideas 
in Christian lands, there is among the Chi- 
nese one supreme want which, whether in 
art, in literature, or in human conduct, is 
equally conspicuous. They are a people 
with their eyes in the back of their heads. 
Their ideals, so far as they have any, are 
all behind them. They know nothing of 
a divine discontent. Complacency, abso- 
lute, invariable, all-pervading, is the su- 
preme note of Chinese life and character. 
That a thing was is reason sufficient to the 
ordinary Chinese mind that it should con- 
tinue to be ; and that anybody who has not 
been hired to do so should concern himself 
with even a curiosity, much more an en- 
deavor, that it should be better, is to the 
Chinese mind only an excellent joke. M. 
Hue, in his masterly work on China and the 
Chinese, relates that in 1857, at the period 
of the death of the Emperor Jao Kuang, he 
was " traveling on the road from Peking, 
and one day, ' ' he says, ' * when we had been 
taking tea at an inn in company with some 
Chinese citizens, we tried to get up a little 



CHINESE TKAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 31 

political discussion. We spoke of the re- 
cent death of the emperor, an important 
event which, of course, must have interested 
everybody. We expressed our anxiety on 
the subject of the succession to the imperial 
throne, the heir to which was not yet pub- 
licly announced. 'Who knows,' said we, 
'which of these sons of the emperor will 
have been appointed to succeed him? If 
it should be the elder, will he pursue 
the same system of government? If the 
younger, he is still very young, and it is 
said that there are contrary influences two 
opposing parties at court. To which will 
he lean?' We put forward, in short, all 
kinds of hypotheses, in order to stimulate 
these good citizens to make some observa- 
tion. But to all our suggestions and in- 
quiries they replied by shaking their heads, 
puffing out whiffs of smoke, and taking 
great gulps of tea. This apathy was becom- 
ing almost provoking, when one of them, 
getting up from his seat, came and laid his 
two hands on our shoulders in a manner 
quite paternal, and said, smiling rather 
ironically: 'Listen to me, my friend. Why 
should you trouble your head and fatigue 
your heart with all these vain surmises? 
The mandarins have to attend to affairs of 
state ; they are paid for it. Let them earn 



32 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

their money, then. But don't let us trouble 
ourselves about what does not concern us. 
We should be great fools to want to do po- 
litical business for nothing.' 'That is very 
conformable to reason, ' said the rest of the 
company; and they then pointed out to us 
that our tea was getting cold and that our 
pipes were out." 

I submit that here M. Hue has not suffi- 
ciently stated, if he sufficiently recognized, 
another element in the reserve of his Chi- 
nese auditors, which courtesy may have re- 
strained them from expressing. What busi- 
ness was it of his I Who were these imper- 
tinent strangers and foreigners, the Chinese 
doubtless said to themselves, who pushed 
their way into a country that neither invited 
nor welcomed them, and insisted on dis- 
cussing its domestic affairs in a promis- 
cuous company in an inn? And if, as has 
since happened, the inquisitive foreigners 
became more and more numerous; if they 
not only challenged Chinese customs, but 
persisted in introducing their own; if they 
ran railways through Chinese graveyards, 
thus outraging the most sacred traditions 
and beliefs of the people among whom they 
ruthlessly forced their way, is it any won- 
der that among that slow-moving, slow- 
thinking, but intensely conservative and 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 33 

exclusive people there has grown up a re- 
sentment of foreign ways, and a hostility to 
all foreign persons, which has at length 
found its expression in acts of violence and 
bloodshed at which the whole civilized 
world to-day stands aghast? 

That a religious hatred is also a large 
element in this hostility there can be no 
smallest doubt; nor, I think it must be 
owned, need there be any wonder. Not 
long ago, at the two-hundredth anniver- 
sary of the Venerable Society for the Prop- 
agation of the Gospel in Foreign . Parts, 
in London, Lord Salisbury delivered an 
address which was much criticized at the 
moment for its somewhat cautionary if not 
fault-finding tone. I confess I wondered 
when I read it that he had not put his cau- 
tions a good deal more strongly. Briefly, 
the situation is this. Missionaries from 
Christian countries go into heathen lands, 
and, while resident or going about in them, 
demand the protection of the consuls, min- 
isters, and ambassadors of their own coun- 
try, to which they are undoubtedly entitled 
as long as they are going to and fro on their 
lawful errands. But suppose this interven- 
tion is invoked when they are violating the 
traditions and doubtless often uncon- 
sciouslyputting contempt on very tender 

3 



34 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOBEOW 

and sacred usages or beliefs ; and suppose, 
still further, that this intervention is in- 
voked and even demanded not only for 
themselves, but for their converts. These 
converts, it must be remembered, are Chi- 
nese subjects, amenable to Chinese law; 
and yet a recent correspondent 1 from China 
tells us that "the Roman Catholic Chris- 
tians were often oppressed by non-Chris- 
tian members of their community, and as 
a result the church appointed two of her 
priests to attend to no other duties except 
the investigation of evidence in case of liti- 
gation, and the conduct of such cases as 
they thought unjust before the official. The 
fact that they had official rank, and the 
other very important fact that they were 
foreigners, added to their power, and they 
were thus able to meet the official not only 
on his own ground, but with the additional 
power of understanding foreign law. The 
Christians were therefore enabled to obtain 
justice.'* 

Now, that is a very innocent-looking 
paragraph, but if one looks a little closer he 
will see how much it really means. In con- 
nection with certain missions, it seems, 
there is a privileged class. They are not 
amenable to the ordinary jurisdiction of the 

1 Mr. I. T. Headland, in "Harper's Weekly." 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 35 

ordinary civil authority. They have suc- 
ceeded in having created for themselves a 
sort of extraordinary civil authority for 
their own people, consisting of a foreign 
priesthood, foreign, at any rate, in their 
commission and allegiance, whether hap- 
pening to be Chinese or French in their 
race and lineage is of small consequence. 
These persons are described as having 
"official rank," that is, Chinese official 
rank; some of them are reported to be in 
authority practically equivalent to that of 
a viceroy ; and they can take a criminal out 
of the ordinary processes of the civil law, 
as applied to natives who are not Chris- 
tians, and deal with him at their own dis- 
cretion. 

Let us for a moment turn such a situa- 
tion "the other end foremost." Let us 
suppose it to be the Buddhists of India who 
are sending missionaries to America; it is 
said that they have set about doing so. 
They ingratiate themselves with the civil 
authorities, and get certain of their number 
appointed police magistrates. There is a 
considerable conversion of native Ameri- 
cans to the religion of Buddha, and these, 
when they fail to pay their taxes or other- 
wise to obey the law, are tried by Buddhist 
magistrates, who take care that they are 



36 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

always very gently dealt with. I do not say 
that there may not have been in China 
wrong and injustice toward Christian con- 
verts. But I do say that if such methods 
of protecting Buddhist converts were to 
obtain among us it would provoke an upris- 
ing, which we for our part would maintain 
to be abundantly justified by the conditions 
which had provoked it. 

It is not necessary for me, I hope, to add 
that there is undoubtedly a great deal of 
missionary work in China which is not 
open, on account of the adroitness or usur- 
pations of its methods, to any criticism 
whatsoever. But even such work, because 
it is the work of foreigners, must reckon 
with that inveterate hostility to foreigners 
of which no one who has not seen it close 
at hand can have any adequate conception. 
That the Chinese should hate Americans, 
who, having shut the American door inex- 
orably in their faces, have now turned 
around to force open the Chinese doors, 
ought not to be to us a matter of surprise. 
That that hatred extends, and for reasons 
that they do not disguise, to all foreigners, 
no one who reads the following extract 
from the " North China Daily News," 
which I encountered in Shanghai in No- 
vember last, can doubt. 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 37 

(Translated from a leading native paper.) 

THE INSATIABLE GREED OF WESTERN NATIONS. 

LET CHINA BEWARE ! 

FOREIGNERS have for many years united them- 
selves, and have been laying their plans with 
regard to China. Originally they availed them- 
selves of the plea of the mutual advantages aris- 
ing out of commerce to induce China to open 
treaty ports at which they could trade. Next, 
under pretexts of various losses, in order to en- 
rich themselves, they compelled China to pay 
certain indemnities. To-day they are mooting 
the questions of railways and mines, and using 
them as a pretext to get our country from us. 
Their purpose is, trusting in their strength, to 
partition out and divide among themselves our 
country. Like chess-players, who place their 
pieces preparatory to attacking and vanquish- 
ing the enemy, they have arranged their forces; 
like fishermen, who first of all silently throw 
the net into the water and then gather out the 
fish, they are preparing to catch China. They 
believe they have, and perhaps do possess, the 
ability to divide China like a watermelon. They 
have already seized and they hold the most im- 
portant positions, with a view to this end. First 
by insinuating that mutual gain would result 
therefrom, they have arranged treaties with us, 
which was obviously the beginning of our calam- 
ities. 



38 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

In the present dispute between Russia and 
England, ruin for China lurks. In reality it is 
only a quarrel about the partition of China. In- 
deed, the surrounding circumstances are con- 
verging to this partition. Foreigners are ever 
scheming for this. Their discussions tend to the 
same results. The signs of this impending ca- 
lamity, moreover, are all too apparent within 
our own borders. But the opportunity to parti- 
tion and snatch from us our country will be 
made by outsiders. If, then, China is to regain 
her original power, she must arouse herself and 
mend her ways. If she exerts herself to her full 
ability, she will then be able to foil the strate- 
gies of her enemies ; if she will but exert herself 
to any extent, she can ward off, for a time at 
least, the actual partition. Then the violence 
with which foreigners insult us, although it ap- 
pears to be all-powerful, will turn out not to be 
so, and our distress will really be no distress at 
all. But alas! there is a fatal tranquillity that 
arises from a condition of coma, a darkness aris- 
ing out of a state of crass ignorance, so that, 
though dangers like falling mountains threaten 
us, many seem unable to observe the impending 
ruin. True, there are earnest scholars of the 
empire, but they only smite the breast and weep 
tears of blood more bitterly, indeed, than in the 
days of the Tribulation of Ki. Let our reader 
then clearly understand that the attitude of all 
foreigners toward China is guided by one prin- 
ciple; they unite their energies and combine 
their forces in order to gratify their one ambi- 



CHINESE TRAITS AND WESTERN BLUNDERS 39 

tion, which is to partition and rob us of our 
country. 

Such has been the cry with which, of late, 
China, north and south, has rung. We have 
seen and are seeing some of the bloody 
fruits of this inflamed national hatred. 
May a large wisdom and a temper other 
than that of mere revenge deal with the 
Chinese question as the essential equities 
involved in it demand. We are told that 
the destiny of China is to be partitioned up 
among the great powers. There could not 
be a more stupid or shameless policy. A 
nation, like a man, has a right to be until 
she has demonstrated unmistakably her in- 
competence to administer her own affairs 
with equal justice to all. It cannot be 
maintained that China has so far descended 
the path of national decay and disintegra- 
tion. She is stained with a long record of 
dishonored and discredited officials, cor- 
rupt, mercenary, and unscrupulous. Alas ! 
is the record of other people unstained in 
this regard? She has been guilty of the 
gravest crimes against international rights 
and comities. Let her be punished for 
them as she deserves. But let not the mad 
acts of ignorant and inflamed revolution- 
ists be made the pretext for pulling down 



40 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

a venerable and historic civilization, whose 
younger and worthier sons are just now 
turning toward the light. Hands off, gen- 
tlemen, kings, emperors, and presidents, 
until a people, stirred at length by the 
vision of nobler ideals, shall show us what 
they can do for their own regeneration. 



II 

THE PROBLEM OF THE 
PHILIPPINES 



II 

THE PROBLEM OF THE 
PHILIPPINES 

IN Le Sage's "Bachelor of Salamanca" 
th^re is recounted a series of stirring 
incidents which issue in the arrival of the 
hero, Don Cherubin de la Ronda, in Mexico, 
in which, for a time, he leads a vagrant life, 
and in which, for a still longer time, he 
holds an official position of considera- 
ble importance. The book is interesting, 
though characteristically coarse reading, 
and as throwing a very helpful side-light 
upon not only usages, but standards, cere- 
monious, commercial, or moral, of the Span- 
ish rule in Mexico, it is of enduring value. 
For nothing can be plainer to one read- 
ing the volume than that, to use a modern 
vulgarism, the Spaniards were not in Mex- 
ico, or in any other colony, "for their 
health." The ordinary term of office of a 
governor was five years, and, however poor 
a man came to the colony, he was expected 
to leave it a man of independent fortune. 

43 



44 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

When Don Cherubin de la Ronda's friend 
and patron, the Count de Gelves, retires 
from the viceroyalty of New Spain, the 
former relates that "finally we set out from 
Mexico, and it may be said that on the day 
of our departure we presented a spectacle 
to the Americans which gave ample scope 
for their curses. The wags, at seeing two 
hundred mules loaded with bales, mostly of 
silver, made themselves a little merry at 
our expense, and we repaired with^ their 
money to Vera Cruz" which goes af good 
way to explain the long-suffering patience 
of the natives under Spanish rule. 

And no estimate of the Philippine, any 
more than of the original Mexican situa- 
tion, or of the people with whom chiefly 
the former is concerned, can be even mod- 
erately intelligent which leaves this feature 
out. Spain found the islands as the fruit 
of that fine spirit of adventure which will 
forever preserve her name illustrious. 
Columbus was not a greater hero nor a 
more daring explorer in his way than was 
Magellan in his. But neither Magellan nor 
the men who followed him, as indeed such 
an incident in their history unmistakably 
reveals, rose above the spirit of their times. 
That the aims of the Spanish-American 
and Spanish-Pacific ventures were not 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 45 

those of colonization so much as of mere 
conquest is plain enough. True, the church 
went in the ships with the soldiers, and the 
priest and his paraphernalia were often 
landed first of all. But, without impugning 
the spirit or the purposes of the reverend 
clergy of that day, it is enough to say that, 
having startled the simple savages among 
whom they landed with their unfamiliar 
ceremonies, they seem to have done little 
or nothing to teach or to protect them. 
When Manila was occupied by the Span- 
iards the historian tells us that they first of 
all established a system of taxes to be im- 
posed upon the natives, and later built hos- 
pitals for their own soldiers, penitentiaries 
for the punishment of the recalcitrant, and 
war-ships to enforce their decrees. Of 
schools and the development of industries 
we hear nothing, nor, indeed, do the Span- 
iards seem to have contemplated the latter 
as practicable among the untutored sav- 
ages. And yet, later experience has dem- 
onstrated that in handicrafts, the mechanic 
arts, and kindred industrial pursuits the 
native Filipino has exhibited unusual apti- 
tude. The factory-hand of to-day, in such 
cotton-mills as I visited, is usually a lad or 
a girl under seventeen or eighteen years of 
age. Yet I was assured by their Scotch 



46 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

overseer that they learned their somewhat 
delicate and intricate tasks, which involved 
the manipulation of machinery easily dis- 
arranged or misdirected, in about half the 
time that a European boy or girl would 
acquire the same knowledge. 

But of development along lines that, to 
our American thinking, are those which 
alone are legitimate in the work of coloniza- 
tion, it is plain that the Spanish conquerors 
had no conception, or, if they had, regarded 
it with not the slightest interest. The pages 
of Philippine history, from the year (1521) 
when Magellan landed on the north coast of 
Mindanao, in the southern Philippines, 
down to our own time, have, indeed, little 
else to record than successive struggles for 
a group of islands which the most cursory 
inspection proved to be rich in natural re- 
sources, and for the possession of which, 
before a great while, Chinese, Dutch, and 
English in turn vigorously and more or less 
successfully contended. It would be in- 
teresting to speculate upon what would 
have been the history of the islands if the 
British fleet which, under Admiral Cornish, 
on September 22, 1762, arrived before Ma- 
nila had maintained the hold which the land 
forces under General Draper, a little later, 
established there, and which was only re- 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 47 

laxed when, after the ratification of the 
treaty of Paris in February, 1763, Manila 
was evacuated. 

It is undoubtedly probable that, had Brit- 
ish control of the islands been maintained, 
their history would have been more pros- 
perous and peaceful than it subsequently 
proved to be. Whatever we may deny to 
her, England has the genius of coloniza- 
tion. And yet, if, in 1762, she had retained 
possession of the Philippines, it is by no 
means certain that she would have ruled 
them more easily than did Spain. Britain's 
more signal triumph as a colonizer has been 
in India, and in India she has the difficult 
task of dealing with different tribes, rulers, 
and tongues. But the local divergences in 
these respects can in no degree be compared 
with what Spain found in the Philippines, 
nor can the original conditions be consid- 
ered at all similar. India had a civilization, 
however we may disesteem much that dis- 
tinguished it. It had a religion which, how- 
ever much of it was clouded by supersti- 
tion, was still the parent and propagator of 
great ideas. But the civilization of the na- 
tive tribes of the Philippines was utterly 
unworthy of any such name, and their re- 
ligious ideas were at once pagan and pue- 
rile. Mr. Foreman, to whose admirable 



48 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

work 1 I shall have occasion more than once 
to refer, relates that in the year 1881 he 
had occasion to visit a village in Upper 
Pampanga which the Spanish authorities 
had established as a kind of model for the 
elevation and instruction of the Negritos. 
They were housed in bamboo and palm-leaf 
huts of excellent sanitary construction, and 
supplied with food and clothing for a year, 
with instruction in tilling the soil and other 
industries. But at the end of a year or two 
they had fled to the mountains, and no per- 
suasion could bring them back to anything 
that separated them from the low animal- 
ism and the nomadic habits which were 
their ancestral inheritance. Now, this, it 
must be borne in mind, was after Spain had 
been in possession of the Philippines for 
more than three hundred years. 

It is quite true, of course, that this has 
not been the history of Spanish colonization 
in all the islands or in connection with all 
the tribes. I shall never forget the pro- 
found impression which was made upon me 
when I entered the harbor of Manila. The 
spectacle of solid and stately structures, 
forts, arsenals, municipal halls, churches, 
viceregal palaces, and the rest, was worthy 
of any port of Spain, distinctly recalling, 

l " The Philippine Islands," by John Foreman, F.R.O.S. 



THE PEOBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 49 

indeed, impressions which I had received 
when entering the harbors of Cartagena, 
Malaga, and Barcelona. And when one 
goes to and fro in Luzon, and to a greater 
or less degree in others of the Philippine 
Islands, he sees manifold material evi- 
dences of commercial, municipal, civic, and 
ecclesiastical activity. The question at 
once arises, Why has it accomplished so 
little, and why, on the whole, is the type of 
civilization which one finds in the Philip- 
pines so low and in some instances so ex- 
ceptionally debased? These are questions 
which the nation which has assumed the 
burden of governing these islands has need 
to ask and to press until it shall have an 
answer. In that answer, if it is soluble at 
all, we shall find the solution of the Philip- 
pine problem. 

It is partially answered as soon as we 
have intelligently recognized the elements 
that went to make up the Spanish civiliza- 
tion. Whatever Spain might have hoped to 
do or to be to the Philippines, she could 
not have expected to create among them a 
social order or to introduce and establish 
moral standards that were higher than her 
own. Those that she did introduce were 
translated to the people whose soil she in- 
vaded and whose tribes she undertook to 



60 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

rule by four powerful agencies : the army, 
the civil ruler, the church, and commerce. 
In speaking of them I shall content myself 
mainly with the testimony of her own wit- 
nesses. 

And, first, the army. Substantially the 
first knowledge that the Filipino had of the 
Spaniard was as a soldier. The men who 
came in ships and who first landed on his 
shores came as the servants of those who 
sailed in them as the conquering hosts of 
Spain, and when, as at Cebu, these con- 
querors first landed, they disclosed the pur- 
pose for which they had come by seizing 
and sacking the first town that they entered. 
The natives were declared Spanish sub- 
jects, their king was dethroned, and the 
grandson of the Spanish leader, the daring 
Legaspi, was despatched to take possession 
of Luzon. The Spanish historian has ob- 
scured this latter transaction by chronicles 
that are curiously contradictory, but he may 
believe who can that the native rulers of 
Luzon surrendered their territory, their in- 
dependence, and their tribute to invading 
foreigners who used no other weapons than 
persuasive speech. From the beginning, 
though the records were written by Spanish 
hands, the pages of Philippine history are 
stained with blood, chiefly the blood of in- 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 51 

nocent and guileless savages, entrapped, 
terrified, robbed, and ravished by civilized 
and nominally Christian soldiers. It is not 
altogether surprising that their descen- 
dants do not welcome the advent of the 
Christian soldier to-day. 

Naturally enough, conquest was followed, 
for a time at any rate, by a rule that was 
largely military. As the colony was di- 
vided and subdivided into provinces and 
military districts, the chief authority was 
usually a military officer who gladly re- 
signed his rank for an office which, while 
it ordinarily had attached to it a stipend 
of but three hundred dollars, afforded in- 
definite opportunities for personal emolu- 
ment. In his ' ' Noticias de Filipinos, ' ' Don 
Eusebio Mazorca, in an unedited manu- 
script, 1 dated 1840, in the archives of the 
Bauan Convent, Province of Batangas, 
states that "there are candidates up to the 
grade of Brigadier who relinquish a $3000 
salary to pursue their hopes and projects 
in [provincial] Governorship," and of the 
qualifications for these positions T. Comin, 
in 1810, wrote: "In order to be a Chief of 
a Province in these Islands, no training or 
knowledge or special services are neces- 
sary. . . . It is quite a common thing 

1 Foreman's " The Philippine Islands," p. 230. 



52 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

to see a barber or a Governor's lackey, a 
sailor or a deserter, suddenly transformed 
into an Alcalde, Administrator, and Cap- 
tain of the forces of a populous province 
without any counsellor but his rude un- 
derstanding, or any guide but his passions 
'sin otro consejero que su rudo entendi- 
miento, ni mas guia que sus pasiones.' m 
Comin was subsequently Spanish consul- 
general at Lisbon. 

With absolute power, with a native in- 
capacity even to conceive of an equitable 
exercise of authority, ignorant, self-willed, 
and wholly irresponsible, it can easily be 
imagined that this military rule did little to 
win or elevate the people whom it pre- 
tended to govern. Our own American 
theory, still widely prevalent more shame 
on us! in certain parts of our own land, 
that "a negro has no rights that a white 
man is bound to respect/' was apparently 
the highest view of his duty that the ordi- 
nary Spanish military officer was capable 
of conceiving. To amuse and indulge him- 
self at whatever cost to the community over 
whom he was placed, and then to wring 
from the conquered province the last peseta 
that could be squeezed from the peasant 
whom he terrorized, this was the founda- 

1 Foreman's " The Philippine Islands," p. 231. 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 53 

tion for civil rule in the Philippines which 
was laid by that military rule which pre- 
ceded it. 

It is not greatly surprising, therefore, 
that when the civil ruler took over the tasks 
of the military governor the situation was 
not greatly improved. He was the creation 
of the Spanish government at Madrid, and 
that conception of the object of his appoint- 
ment which I have indicated at the begin- 
ning of these pages was undoubtedly a 
leading, if not the principal, motive. The 
appointments to places of trust and respon- 
sibility, such as were those of military gov- 
ernors, alcaldes, or other prominent magis- 
trates, were in the gift of the Spanish 
cabinet, and when a cabinet officer went out, 
his favorites went out with him. The sys- 
tem, in a word, was our own, save as the lat- 
ter is feebly and intermittently qualified by 
civil-service regulations ; and the uses which 
a government officer made of his place, if 
more glaring and unblushing, especially, 
for example, in cities, than those which we 
are familiar with at home, were of substan- 
tially the same character. The authority 
that I have already quoted, Don Eusebio 
Mazorca, 1 describing the official processes 
in this connection, says: "The Governor 

1 Foreman's " The Philippine Islands," p. 242. 



54 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

receives payment of the tribute in rice 
paddy, which he credits to the native at two 
reals in silver per caban. Then he pays this 
sum into the Eoyal Treasury in money, and 
sells the rice paddy for private account at 
the current rate of six, eight, or more reals 
in silver per caban, and this simple opera- 
tion brings him 200 to 300 per cent, profit. ' ' 
One is not surprised to hear that officials on 
retiring from office took with them, when 
they returned to Spain, large sums, three or 
four times exceeding their total official 
emoluments. 

Under such a system of civic corruption 
at the top, it inevitably followed that the 
rottenness reached all the way down. One 
is irresistibly reminded of our police sys- 
tems in cities, with their political ' ' bosses, ' ' 
by an experience of the author I have al- 
ready quoted. In 1885 he bought a small 
estate which had been leased to a tenant 
whom the purchaser found at the moment 
in the Manila jail for a violent assault. 
Three months later the man was at large, 
and he was soon after appointed governor 
of his own village. 

It is not to be supposed, however, that 
such a state of things existed without the 
mechanisms and processes of the law by 
which it ought to have been restrained or 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 55 

corrected. The difficulty was that the 
courts and the usual legal processes and 
personages were as corruptible as the 
higher officials. "I knew," says Foreman, 1 
"a man in Negros Island a planter who 
was charged with homicide. The judge of 
his Province acquitted him, but fearing that 
he might be again arrested on the same 
charge, he came up to Manila with me to 
procure a ratification of the sentence in the 
Supreme Court. The expenses of the legal 
proceedings were so enormous, that at 
length he was compelled to fully mortgage 
his plantation. Weeks passed, and he had 
spent all his money without getting justice, 
so I lent his notary 40Z. to assist in bringing 
the case to an end. The planter returned to 
Negros apparently satisfied that he should 
be no further troubled, but later on, the 
newly appointed judge in that island, whilst 
prospecting for fees by turning up old 
cases, unfortunately came across this, and 
my planter acquaintance was sentenced to 
eight years' imprisonment." The narrator 
of this incident naively informs us that 
' ' the family lawyer, proceeding on the same 
lines, had still a hope of finding defects in 
the sentence to reverse it in favour of his 
client." How could it be otherwise when, 

i "The Philippine Islands," p. 268. 



56 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

a little earlier, we are informed that if a 
case had been tried and judgment given 
under the civil code a way was often found 
to convert it into a criminal case ; and when 
apparently settled under the criminal code, 
a flaw could be discovered under the Laws 
of the Indies, or the Siete Partidas, or the 
Koman law, or the Novisima Recopilacion, 
or the Antiguos fueros, decrees, royal or- 
ders, Ordenanzas de buen Gobierno, or 
some others by which the case could be re- 
opened? Such a state of things throws an 
interesting side-light upon the charming 
innocence of those American commission- 
ers who, in the recent treaty of Paris, vir- 
tually reenacted the above Philippine sys- 
tem of civil and ecclesiastical law. One is 
tempted to say that the prayer from the 
bench, "May God have mercy on your 
soul ! ' ' might not only fitly follow a criminal 
trial, but precede a civil one. 

Any description of the Philippine situa- 
tion would, however, be gravely incomplete 
which omitted that other element in it which 
was neither military nor civil, but ecclesi- 
astical. We ought not to fail to recognize, 
in reviewing it, those earlier motives of 
missionary zeal which found undoubtedly a 
welcome sphere in all the splendid range of 
Spanish conquests. The heathen peoples to 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 67 

whom the conquerors came were in pagan 
darkness, and a Christian and Catholic 
monarch owned the obligation to impart to 
them the religion which was identified with 
the history of his people and the founda- 
tions of his throne. That the methods 
which were employed to this end were not 
always or often those which to-day would 
receive the unqualified sanction of the de- 
scendants of those who invoked them is only 
to say that the ideas of Christian expansion, 
whether Latin, Greek, or of the Reformed 
communions, were not those which intelli- 
gent people of any Christian fellowship 
would to-day approve. A religion of exter- 
nalism and a propaganda of force went 
hand in hand ; and that their fruits were not 
manifest in regenerated characters or in a 
pure and righteous social order was simply 
because no seed was sown which could have 
produced such fruits. But the gravest as- 
pects of the ecclesiastical history of the 
Philippines appear when we turn to look, 
in the pages of their own historians, for the 
influence, whether of institutions or of in- 
dividuals, in bringing to pagan tribes no- 
bler ideals and a doctrine or practice re- 
sembling even in some remote degrees those 
of the brotherhood of Jesus Christ. For 
this it ought distinctly to be said that at 



68 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

first the church was only indirectly respon- 
sible. The civil and military authorities 
soon discovered that in the Philippine Isl- 
anders they had a people extremely sen- 
sible to external impressions, ignorant, 
credulous, and superstitious. From the 
awe with which they witnessed rites and 
ceremonies unfamiliar, but dramatically 
impressive, they passed readily and swiftly 
to awe and fear of those who performed 
them, and the civil ruler found himself in- 
voking ecclesiastical terrors because often 
no others proved to be so effective. Out 
of this it not unnaturally grew that the ec- 
clesiastic came, in time, to unite both sacred 
and secular functions, the church has too 
readily in every age assumed them both, 
and the prelate and the priest became, 
sooner or later, the magistrate and the 
judge. In such capacities the village pas- 
tor took on ultimately the character of a 
government agent, and, as such, it was 
within his discretion arbitrarily to grant or 
to refuse his official signature to documents 
which without it had no value. Or he 
could, as a guardian of the public safety, 
denounce to the authorities as a dangerous 
person one whose presence in the district 
was inconvenient to himself, and presently, 
by order of the governor of the province, 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 59 

the obnoxious person disappeared es- 
corted to prison or banished to a distant 
island. 

That these things and others like them 
were largely due to the malign influence of 
the so-called religious orders Heaven save 
the mark! has repeatedly and very re- 
cently been denied with a coarseness and 
vulgarity of vituperation to which I need 
not here further refer than to say that to 
minds capable of forming a dispassionate 
opinion upon any subject it was sufficient 
evidence of their truth. Other evidence, 
however, there is in the history of the Phil- 
ippines, abundant, continuous, and of indis- 
putable authority, most of all to those who 
have ventured to challenge it. The Jesuits 
were expelled from the Philippine Islands 
in the year 1768 by virtue of an apostolic 
brief of Pope Clement XIV. 1 It is quite 
true that they were permitted to return in 
1852, but only on condition that they should 
confine their labors to strictly educational 
and missionary work. And these were un- 
doubtedly the least obnoxious of the orders, 
the others the Austin Friars, Recoletos, 
Dominicans, and Franciscans being iden- 
tified with incidents in the social and do- 

royal decree setting forth the execution of this 
brief was printed in Madrid in 1770 (Foreman). 



60 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

mestic life of the Philippine people, the cor- 
ruption of their households, and the adroit 
sequestration and appropriation of their 
property, which will continue to make any 
attempt by the government of the United 
States to avoid or evade the question of 
the friars an utterly vain and futile one. 
On the relations of these orders to one an- 
other an amusing side-light is thrown by an 
incident in the history of the Dominicans, 
by whom, in 1778, the province of Panga- 
sinan was spiritually administered, while 
that of Zambales was allotted to the Reco- 
letos. The Dominicans therefore proposed 
to the Recoletos to cede Zambales to them, 
* ' because it was repugnant to them to have 
to pass through Recoletos territory in going 
from Manila to their own province." The 
1 ( Recopilacion de las Leyes de Indies" 
shows that it at length became necessary to 
forbid these amiable brethren to have any 
part in civil government. 1 

I have thus rehearsed the influences 
which had so much to do with creating the 
situation which existed when the fleet of 
Admiral Dewey found its way into Manila 
Bay, because only so can one get an intelli- 
gent view of a problem which has in it un- 
usual elements of delicacy and difficulty. 

J Ley 46, tit. 14 (Foreman). 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 61 

Those who accept unreservedly a policy of 
colonial expansion, concerning which I have 
myself seen nothing in our recent history 
to change opinions formed long ago, are 
fond of pointing to the achievements of 
Anglo-Saxon colonization in other lands, 
and of asking why we may not match them. 
If there were no other answer to that ques- 
tion it might be found in that quite excep- 
tional unlikeness in the Philippine situation 
to situations, such as that in India, where 
the colonizing power has had to deal with a 
people that, whatever its tribal differences, 
is largely homogeneous. But an especial 
difficulty in the Philippine situation, which 
includes tribal differences running all the 
way, as in the case of the Negritos, from the 
extreme of barbarism to conditions, as with 
many of the Tagalos, of semi-civilization, 
is that you have those most perplexing com- 
plications which arise out of the superim- 
position upon the native tribes of a civiliza- 
tion partly Japanese, 1 partly Chinese, and 
overpoweringly Spanish, whose influence, 
whatever it may have been for good, must 
be owned by an impartial student to have 

1 It is not generally known, perhaps, that so late as 1896 
the Katipunan, a secret patriotic society of the Filipinos 
(persistently misrepresented as a masonic order), sent a 
deputation to Japan to present a petition to the Mikado 
praying him to annex the Philippines. 



62 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

been never such as to create in the native 
mind a faith in the government as the 
friend of liberty and equity, or an affection 
or respect for rulers as the dispensers of 
justice or the exemplars of blameless living 
or honest dealing. In a word, there has 
been nothing in the past history of the Fili- 
pino to educate him to value or to imitate 
liigh ideals of official authority or civic, 
social, or domestic self-restraint. 

It is not surprising that these peoples 
should have been impatient under a condi- 
tion of things in which law and religion 
and their official representatives stood for 
so little that boded anything but evil to 
them. The revolutionary movement repre- 
sented by Aguinaldo and those associated 
with him was therefore to have been antici- 
pated, and had had, indeed, its repeated 
forerunners. The practical question was, 
and is, What did it amount to, what was its 
worth? There is no question in connection 
with the Philippine problem more impor- 
tant than this, nor any concerning which 
the effort to create an erroneous impression 
has been more strenuous or more persistent. 
The comparisons between our own strug- 
gle for independence and that of the young 
guerrilla warrior have been frequent and 
eloquent. Their only defect is that the 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 63 

facts which warranted any such comparison 
were so largely wanting. I say nothing 
here of the just doubts which any one ac- 
quainted with the history of the Filipino 
leader must needs entertain, whether as 
to the integrity of his record or the honesty 
of his purpose. I maintain that it is simply, 
an intolerable impertinence to compare 
him or those who are about him with the 
men who were the leaders in our struggle 
for freedom and who laid the foundations 
of the republic. The warrant for a struggle 
for freedom must be found in something 
more than the mere passion to be free from 
an irksome yoke, or else any desire to break 
out of wonted restraints and the chafing 
limitations of hated social order becomes 
straightway a sacred aspiration with which 
we are bound to sympathize, and in which 
we are bound to cooperate. I venture to 
speak with some warmth on this subject, 
because my knowledge, through correspon- 
dence and personal interviews with those 
who have stood, not only in the Philippine 
Islands, but in America, Japan, and China, 
as the representatives and spokesmen of 
the revolutionary movement there, has ex- 
tended over nearly three years and has in- 
cluded a considerable variety of individ- 
uals; and I am constrained to say that 



64 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

it has only deepened my conviction that, 
whatever elements of equity there may be 
in the Philippine struggle for freedom, the 
leaders have not yet appeared who could 
be seriously considered as competent to lead 
or organize it. 

Under these circumstances the duty of 
the government of the United States does 
not seem to be obscure. Through the blun- 
der of the naval commander who, after 
his splendid achievement in destroying a 
Spanish fleet in the harbor of Manila, failed 
to see that his task there was at an end, 
we have assumed another and a much more 
difficult one. We have had no training for 
its discharge; we have a very inferior 
mechanism for its accomplishment ; and we 
are cursed with political traditions which 
make it doubly difficult to perform it suc- 
cessfully. But at this writing there is no 
honorable way out. To throw up our task 
now would be a cruelty to those whom we 
abandon, and a confession of our impotence 
which would disgrace us before the world. 
The element of time in the whole melan- 
choly business is that which has trans- 
formed essentially its aspect. We must go 
on now, whether or no we find the task more 
expensive in men and means, and less 
profitable commercially, than originally we 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 65 

expected. Noblesse oblige. A great nation 
cannot abandon a weaker people which it 
has, before all men, adopted as its ward 
without confessing that, great as it claims 
to be, it has nothing to impart, nothing to 
sacrifice, in order to give freedom and good 
government to those who have not forfeited 
all claim to such gifts because they have 
looked for them in the wrong direction. 

I would not minimize the difficulties or 
the costliness of the task. I have elsewhere 
than in these pages l recognized our consid- 
erable inadequacy for it. But that inade- 
quacy consists rather in our instruments 
than in the absence of those informing prin- 
ciples which must forever determine the 
value of any instruments, and which are. 
forever at the foundation of all good gov- 
ernment. The greatest glory, as a history 
of administration, of our Civil War was 
that after we had blundered, and had bred 
swindling contractors and shoddy manufac- 
turers and smuggling, and incompetent 
generals, then, like some great creature 
breasting the waves, we shook ourselves 
free from them, and rose above them, and 
did the tasks, and fed and moved the 
armies, and fought our battles, better and 

1 See an address before the Church Congress, 
6 October, 1899. 



66 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

better. And, best of all, we searched for 
and found the men, and lifted them from 
their obscurity, Lincoln, Stanton, Grant, 
and their peers and successors, who did 
the thinking and planned the marching, 
and fed and moved the armies that won 
through to victory. I am not one of those 
who believe that the people of the United 
States have lost the capacity to repeat such 
achievements. There are many who will 
never cease to regret our original blunder 
in the Philippine Islands. But they are not 
so despairing of their country as to believe 
that she is so far gone from original right- 
eousness that she has in her no virtue left 
with which to educate those distant islands 
for freedom; and meanwhile it is just as 
well to remember that her rulers have never 
intimated that this government has any 
other purpose in regard to them. 

But we shall gravely blunder if we mini- 
mize or evade any one of the difficult tasks 
which are before us. There are influences 
that will tempt the leaders of political par- 
ties to do this, which it would be the crud- 
est folly to ignore. If we are ever to win 
the confidence and mold the characters of 
these island peoples we must recognize the 
injustices from which too long they have 
suffered, and set about to right them. We 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 67 

must not with one hand proffer them free- 
dom freedom of thought, freedom of 
speech, freedom of worship and take it 
back with the other. And we must there- 
fore courageously face such questions as, 
for example, What has the government of 
the United States to say to a pronuncia- 
mento like this! 

"You must reject and condemn the ma- 
sonic sect, so frequently rejected and con- 
demned by the supreme pontiffs. 

"You must also reject and condemn lib- 
erty of worship, liberty of the press, liberty 
of thought, and the other liberties of perdi- 
tion, condemned and rejected by the pon- 
tiff. 

"You must also reject and condemn lib- 
eralism and also modern progress and civ- 
ilization, as being false progress and false 
civilization. 

"You must utterly abominate civil mar- 
riage and regard it as pure concubinage. 

"You must also condemn and reject the 
interference of the civil authorities in any 
ecclesiastical affairs, so much in vogue 
nowadays. ' ' 

I take these instructions from a lately 
published pamphlet in Manila. This pam- 
phlet was issued without duly expressed 
church authority, until the organ of the 



68 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

Roman Catholic Church in Manila, a Span- 
ish newspaper called the "Liberastus," 
admitted the fact that the Jesuits had pub- 
lished it. 1 

There is not the slightest occasion to in- 
voke theological or ecclesiastical rancors in 
connection with questions raised by such a 
publication as this. But it should also be 
said that there is as little for being deterred 
by any fulminations of that sort of thunder, 
now happily reduced to the dimensions and 
substance of the sheet-tin rattled for a simi- 
lar purpose behind the scenic stage, from 
considering calmly and dispassionately 
what it bodes to the rights and liberties of 
those whom it seeks to terrorize, or to the 
free institutions which it will be our sacred 
duty as well as our privilege to plant among 
them. Our tasks, at the best, in the Philip- 
pines are not easy ones. It will be neces- 
sary, at the outset, to have it definitely un- 
derstood that they are not to be obstructed 
by influences and societies of whose enor- 
mous power for mischief and corruptness 
the history of the Philippine Islands is the 
melancholy and tragic record. 

As to what American rule has already 
achieved in our new possessions, I am glad 
to affirm here what correspondence extend- 

1 New York "Evening Post," May 16, 1900. 



THE PROBLEM OF THE PHILIPPINES 69 

ing over two years, the testimony of respon- 
sible and impartial witnesses of all classes, 
and personal observation have led me to be- 
lieve in regard to our army and our civil 
servants in the Philippine Islands. That 
there have been no unworthy or ill-con- 
ducted individuals among them would be 
to demand that the standard of conduct, for 
example, in Manila should be higher than 
it is in Washington or Boston. I do not be- 
lieve that it is, but I do believe that it is 
quite as high. The soldiers do not love 
their work in the Philippines, I should not, 
if I had to do it, but they do it, as I more 
than once saw, so as to earn the evident con- 
fidence of the communities among which 
they are stationed, and to give proof to 
these of the spirit and purpose of our pres- 
ence in the Philippines. Time alone can 
demonstrate how far we may be able to per- 
suade a fickle, restless, impulsive, unreason- 
ing people, embittered by many wrongs 
received at the hands of those we have ex- 
pelled, or ought to expel, to trust us, to 
learn from us, and under our patient tute- 
lage to grow into the stature of competent 
citizens in a self-governing state. 



m 

IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 



Ill 

IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 

MY traveling companion in Japan was a 
gentleman of various culture and of 
artistic tastes. These latter found in Japa- 
nese architecture and decorative drawing 
certain resemblances to American art and 
the recent work of well-known American 
artists which, to my cruder intelligence and 
more imperfect culture, were not discerni- 
ble, and which led him to active investiga- 
tions for the confirmation of his theories. 
They took us, one morning, into a curio- 
dealer's establishment, and soon immersed 
my friend in a huge pile of portfolios, the 
contents of which I was soon constrained 
to confess were to me neither interesting 
nor even intelligible. Under these circum- 
stances, taking advantage of my compan- 
ion's absorption in a hideous drawing of 
a Japanese interior, which to my ignorant 
scrutiny violated every law of perspective 
and every principle of the harmony of col- 

73 



74 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

ors, I quietly slipped out of the shop, and 
after a few steps found myself in one of 
the greater highways through which to-day 
throbs the various life of the capital of 
modern Japan. There was local color 
enough there, though a good deal of it was 
not Japanese ; and presently I found myself 
before a shop-window not unlike such a one 
as might be found in our own New York 
Third or Eighth Avenue the window of a 
place primarily for the sale of newspapers 
and periodicals, but incidentally for almost 
anything and everything else. Here, con- 
spicuously displayed among other prints 
and pictures, was suspended a huge broad- 
side, such as comes sometimes with the 
London "Graphic" or "Illustrated News," 
representing the assembled sovereigns and 
rulers of the world. Their grouping had in 
it a large suggestion, and furnished to the 
student of political history a very useful 
lesson. In the center of this august group 
was seated the Emperor of Japan, and 
gathered about him in respectful attitudes 
were kings and queens and presidents, 
among whom was our own chief magistrate, 
placed in what apparently, according to 
Japanese art, was a position of appropriate 
obscurity on the extreme left of the em- 
peror, while standing behind the imperial 



IMPEESSIONS OF JAPAN 75 

chair in which the Mikado was seated (this 
struck me, I confess, as curiously contra- 
vening the Japanese traditions of good 
manners) was the late venerable and ven- 
erated Queen of Great Britain and Ireland 
and Empress of India, whose years and un- 
exampled reign, if not her sex, would seem 
to have entitled her to one of the chairs in 
which, as I observed, the young German 
Emperor and our own President were rep- 
resented as lounging. 

But the chief value of the picture lay in 
the help which it gave to the traveler in 
recovering his political perspective. If a 
modern publisher should make a lithograph 
of the rulers of the world for American 
consumption, I presume he would put our 
own President in the center, just as in the 
Transvaal a Boer publisher getting out any- 
thing of the sort would have put Oom Paul 
there. The thing, in other words, for the 
traveler to learn from such an incident is 
that Japan only like the rest of the world, 
after all, in that takes itself quite seri- 
ously. We Americans, on the contrary, do 
not, as a rule, take Japan at all seriously. 
The thing that irritated me in my country- 
men, and quite as often in other foreigners, 
wherever I met them in Japan, and often, 
too, in what I read in the books about Ja- 



76 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOKEOW 

pan, was that so many people thought it 
necessary to take everything that they saw 
or heard there as a part of a huge opera 
bouffe. It was my good fortune when in 
Tokio, through the courtesy of Colonel 
Buck, our most able and capable minister 
plenipotentiary to Japan, to have the rare 
privilege of witnessing the opening of the 
Japanese Parliament by the emperor in 
propria persona. My companion and I 
were, with the exception of the diplomatic 
corps, the only foreigners present; and I 
confess I thought the occasion one of most 
impressive dignity and interest, albeit 'the 
costumes both of the nobles and of the mem- 
bers of the House of Commons were Euro- 
pean instead of those of the charming out- 
lines and coloring usually worn by persons 
of distinction in Japan. Speaking, how- 
ever, of the occasion to a member of a for- 
eign legation, a little later, his only obser- 
vation was, "Did you ever see such a droll 
collection of old hats I " I could not refrain 
from replying that, if the hats were old, the 
ideas inside of them, as their wearers 
swarmed in to their places, were both new 
and already fermenting; and I should be 
tempted to say that the man or nation that 
does not take Japan seridusly is on the way 
to a considerable surprise. 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 77 

And yet the elements of lightness and 
gaiety, along with self-complacency, if not 
large conceit, of which I have spoken, are 
undoubtedly distinctive of Japanese char- 
acter. As to the former, that note of vi- 
vacity, cheerfulness, and even playfulness 
which the foreigner so often remarks, its 
tokens perpetually recur. The conditions 
of life in Japan, for the great majority of 
its forty millions of people, are inevitably 
narrow and hard. It has not been, until 
lately, a nation of various resources or of 
commercial productiveness. The great ma- 
jority of its people must subsist directly 
upon the soil, and from this they get little 
more than the simplest food and the scanti- 
est raiment. And yet the stranger in going 
to and fro among them is struck with their 
smiling faces and the merry laughter that 
he so often hears, amid surroundings and in 
connection' with tasks and burdens which, 
it would seem, would press all joy out of 
life. Added to this, there is a disposition 
to adorn the simplest things and to enrich 
the homeliest duties with a certain quaint 
prettiness which gives to them an almost 
attractive aspect. It is said that the art 
of making and pouring out tea, in the life 
of a young Japanese girl, is encompassed 
with so much variety and even intricacy 



78 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

of ceremony that it takes two years prop- 
erly to acquire and practise it. 

Such a fact is somehow symbolic of much 
more. The humblest tasks have in the 
doing of them a rhythmic usage, and the 
relation of this to certain kinds of work 
most remote, one would say, to anything 
like artistic form was shown in a very curi- 
ous way by a controversy which was going 
on in certain Japanese newspapers while I 
was in Japan. A correspondent had written 
to one of them to complain of the condition 
of the railway between Yokohama and To- 
kio, and was answered by some one who 
wrote in demurrer of his criticisms, evi- 
dently under official inspiration. Mean- 
time, however, a foreigner had taken a 
hand in the discussion, and touched, as it 
would seem, the nerve of the whole busi- 
ness. He had observed, he said, the Japa- 
nese track-layers at work, and had watched 
their methods when they were repairing the 
road-bed of the railway in question. The 
roughness of the road, with the consequent 
jumping or jolting (5f the railway-carriages, 
was owing, as he pointed out, to the ine- 
qualities of the road-bed, and to the loosen- 
ing of the ties or timbers which rested upon 
it. This, he explained, could be remedied 
only by redistributing the earth upon which 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 79 

the ties rested, and, above all, by careful 
and intelligent repacking of the soil and 
stones beneath and around the ties; and 
then he added that when Japanese work- 
men undertook this task they worked in 
groups of three or four, all of whom used 
their picks in unison and struck their blows 
in obedience to the sound of some rhythmic 
measure. But such a method, as he showed 
plainly enough, was wholly unsuited to such 
an end. The loosening, gathering, dislodg- 
ing, replacing, and repacking of stones and 
soil under a railway-tie could not be done 
otherwise than as it was done by the indi- 
vidual workman using his tool and direct- 
ing his work quite independently of any 
other tool or hand, just as from moment to 
moment the situation revealed itself and the 
exigency demanded. There must be the 
intelligent observation first, and then the 
independent action of the independent and 
individual mind and hand. Undoubtedly 
one saw in the Japanese method, in this 
particular case, the survival, and the appli- 
cation under conditions to which they were 
utterly inappropriate, of those older meth- 
ods of labor in which the laborer worked 
as a machine, chained together with other 
laborers in a group or gang, in which no 
man thought for himself, but in which each 



80 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

man repeated mechanically the movement 
and gesture of his neighbor, softening it, as 
so often one hears among Oriental peoples, 
with some monotonous but rhythmical 
chant, which was droned or sung as uncon- 
sciously as all the rest. At such a point the 
mind inevitably reached out to recognize 
the difference between such work, with all 
its inevitable defects and limitations, and 
that other freer labor where the worker 
wrought by himself, thought for himself, 
and aimed the blow, not as any fixed and 
formally recurring rhythm demanded, but 
as the free judgment and the free hand en- 
joined and directed. 

Yet one could not but see, now and then, 
how effective in its way was the older 
usage ; and behind it there shone often the 
tokens of an exceptional power. If I were 
asked to say, of all that I saw in Japan, 
what that is that lives most vividly in my 
memory, I should probably shock my artis- 
tic reader by saying that it was the loading 
of a steamship at Nagasaki with coal. The 
huge vessel, the Empress of Japan, was one 
morning, soon after its arrival at Nagasaki, 
suddenly festooned I can use no other 
word from stem to stern on each side with 
a series of hanging platforms, the broadest 
nearest the base and diminishing as they 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 81 

rose, strung together by ropes, and ascend- 
ing from the sampans, or huge boats in 
which the coal had been brought alongside 
the steamer, until the highest and narrow- 
est platform was just below the particular 
port-hole through which it was received 
into the ship. There were, in each case, all 
along the sides of the ship, some four or five 
of these platforms, one above another, on 
each of which stood a young girl. On board 
the sampans men were busy filling a long 
line of baskets holding, I should think, each 
about two buckets of coal, and these were 
passed up from the sampans in a continu- 
ous and unbroken line until they reached 
their destination, each young girl, as she 
stood on her particular platform, passing, 
or rather almost throwing, these huge bas- 
ketfuls of coal to the girl above her, and 
she again to her mate above her, and so on 
to the end. The rapidity, skill, and, above 
all, the rhythmic precision with which, for 
hours, this really tremendous task was per- 
formed was an achievement which might 
well fill an American athlete with envy and 
dismay. As I moved to and fro on the deck 
above them, watching this unique scene, I 
took out my watch to time these girls, and 
again and again I counted sixty-nine bas- 
ketsthey never fell below sixty passed 



82 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOEKOW 

on board in this way in a single minute. 
Think of it for a moment. The task I 
ought rather to call it an art, so neatly, sim- 
ply, and gracefully was it done was this : 
the young girl stooped to her companion 
below her, seized from her uplifted hands 
a huge basket of coal, and then, shooting 
her lithe arms upward, tossed it laughingly 
to the girl above her in the ever-ascending 
chain. And all the while there was heard, 
as one passed along from one to another of 
these chains of living elevators, a clear, 
rhythmical sound, which I supposed at first 
to have been produced by some bystander 
striking the metal string of something like 
a mandolin, but which I discovered, after 
a little, was a series of notes produced by 
the lips of these young coal-heavers them- 
selvesdistinct, precise, melodious, and 
stimulating. And at this task these girls 
continued, uninterruptedly and blithely, 
from ten o'clock in the morning until four 
o'clock in the afternoon, putting on board 
in that time, I was told, more than one thou- 
sand tons of coal. I am quite free to say 
that I do not believe that there is another 
body of work-folk in the world who could 
have performed the same task in the same 
time and with the same* ease. 
And what does it mean? For that is the 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 83 

point of this incident, and of all that thus 
far I have said. It means that in one aspect 
of them, at any rate, the Japanese are not 
what most of us have been wont to account 
them a feeble folk. Again and again, dur- 
ing my visit to Japan, I encountered certain 
of my own countrymen and others who have 
been for a shorter or longer time resident 
among them, from whom I heard more or 
less amusing illustrations of the blunders 
which Japan has made in what many ac- 
count its overhasty adoption of Western 
ways. I was told, for instance, that so in- 
flamed was Japan with a sense of its suc- 
cesses as a sea-power that, after its late war 
with China, and after it had received from 
the latter the war indemnity due to it, it 
had promptly proceeded to invest the whole 
sum in the building or buying of new ships, 
leaving no provision whatever for the costly 
maintenance of these ships, each of which, 
if as large as our own Olympia (and many 
of them are), could be kept in commission 
and ready for active service only at an ex- 
pense of about a thousand dollars a day. 
Now, undoubtedly, this was very poor 
financiering unless the government was 
satisfied that in some other way than by 
economizing the Chinese indemnity fund 
it could provide for manning and running 



84 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

these ships. But surely the hypothesis is at 
least admissible that they might be able to 
do so. It is undoubtedly true that in con- 
nection with its transformation during the 
last quarter of a century Japan has been 
spending too much money; but I appre- 
hend that already her own shrewd finan- 
ciers have found this out, and that measures 
will be devised to meet the emergency. 

Meantime the significant thing is that, 
whatever this new empire arising out of 
the old has done, she has done well. There 
may have been too much slavish imitation 
of Western methods at first, and the effort 
too rapidly to adjust these to an Oriental 
people may, in some instances, have re- 
sulted in grotesque failure. But the. Japa- 
nese are a people quick to learn, and no 
national or local vanity has prevented them 
from recognizing and correcting their own 
blunders. On the other hand, their suc- 
cesses have been too marked and note- 
worthy to be belittled or ignored. Again 
and again while in the national capital 
I saw regiments of soldiers marching 
through the streets, turned out in all re- 
spects with remarkable excellence, and car- 
rying themselves after a fashion, and re- 
flecting a precision and efficiency of drill, 
worthy of any army in any land. If in the 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 85 

future history of the far East there is fight- 
ing to be done, I venture to predict that the 
army as well as the navy of Japan will give 
a good account of itself. 

And what are the chances? It has been 
said that Japan has been made drunk with 
its successes in China, and that if, as is 
likely, it should seek to force another issue 
with China, that huge empire, roused at 
last, and with its four hundred millions of 
people to draw from, would wipe it out. 

But is it likely ? So far from its being so, 
there are, I apprehend, other possibilities 
of a far more portentous character of 
which as yet foreign statesmen have taken 
but little account. In a letter l written not 
long ago from Tokio I find these words : 

We who live in Japan and have many opportu- 
nities of ascertaining the views held by publi- 
cists about the Chinese problem believe that we 
are in a position to speak with some confidence. 
"What we see before everything is that the states- 
men of the country do not credit the possibility 
of the Middle Kingdom's [China's] complete 
disintegration. They think that its territorial 
dimensions may be reduced, but they think also 
that there must always remain a solid residuum, 
guaranteed from disruption by the homoge- 
neity of the race, by its vast resources, and by 

1 In the Hongkong " Telegraph," December 17, 1899. 



86 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

its long history of autonomy. Japan under- 
stands that it is a matter of life and death to her 
nascent industries to prevent any large encroach- 
ments upon Chinese dominions by powers which 
employ protective tariffs to close their markets. 
She does not want the irreducible minimum of 
the Chinese empire for her commercial vis-a-vis. 
Then comes the question, To what lengths is she 
prepared to go, and what methods does she think 
feasible, for the conservation of the Middle King- 
dom ? Here also there is a notable consensus of 
opinion among her leading politicians. They 
think that what China needs before everything 
else at present is a strong army and a strong 
navy, the weapons for self-defense. She already 
possesses materials for an army; they require 
only to be molded into shape. Japan is best 
fitted to undertake that task. 

The letter then goes on to deal with the 
question of a navy for China, and con- 
cludes : 

These are the practical questions that press 
for immediate settlement, according to the view 
of Japanese publicists. The questions of finance 
and general reform would be national corollaries 
which Japan does not seem to consider incapable 
of solution. 

This is a significant utterance, and its 
significance is increased by the fact that it 



IMPRESSIONS OP JAPAN 87 

appears in a Chinese, not a Japanese, jour- 
nal, and that its suggestions are preceded 
by the statement: 

The Chinese commissioners Lin and Ching 
have now left Tokio. Ostensibly their journey 
to Japan had a purely commercial object; they 
were instructed to make a careful investigation 
of the trading and manufacturing methods that 
Japan is following with success. But in reality 
their main purpose was to ascertain the possi- 
bilities of an alliance between the two Oriental 
empires. 

A very little reflection will enable one to 
see the enormous possibilities that lurk in 
language such as this. Just now the West- 
ern world is saying to itself: "At last the 
huge Chinese empire is on the eve of disin- 
tegration. The great wall is broken down. 
The haughty seclusion has been invaded. 
There is the carcass, and there already the 
Western eagles are gathered together- 
Russia, England, Germany, France, with 
our own national bird hovering near at 
hand. It will not be a great while before 
the attending physicians, to change the 
figure, will diagnose the disease as requir- 
ing vivisection, and will divide the remains 
between them." It does not seem to have 
occurred to anybody that China herself may 



88 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

wish to have a voice in the matter, or if it 
does, we are just now being told that she is 
an empire made up of such heterogeneous 
and mutually indifferent principalities that 
there is no remotest prospect of binding 
them together in any common effort for 
preserving the national autonomy. But 
those who say so in America, at any rate 
forget their own very recent history, and 
how our States, east and west, though di- 
vided by a distance of three thousand miles, 
were bound together, despite their diverse 
interests and. traditions, in one splendid 
and heroic struggle for the life of the Re- 
public. And if it should be asked, "What 
evidence is there that there exists anywhere 
in China to-day any such national sentiment 
as our own Civil War disclosed?" I think 
that question is sufficiently answered by the 
following extract which I take from a lead- 
ing Chinese journal published within the 
last few months: 

Foreigners have for many years united them- 
selves, and have been laying their plans with 
regard to China. Originally they availed them- 
selves of the plea of the mutual advantages aris- 
ing out of commerce to induce China to open 
treaty ports at which they could trade. Next, 
under pretext of certain losses, in order to en- 
rich themselves, they compelled China to pay 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 89 

certain indemnities. To-day they are mooting 
the questions of railways and mines, and using 
them as a pretext to get our country from us. 
. . . In the present dispute between Russia 
and England ruin for China lurks. In reality, 
it is only a quarrel about the partition of China. 
Indeed, the surrounding circumstances are con- 
verging to this partition. Foreigners are ever 
scheming for this. The signs of this impend- 
ing calamity are all too apparent within our 
own borders. ... If, then, China is to re- 
gain her original power, she must arouse herself 
and amend her ways. 

Does it need to be pointed out that be- 
tween language such as this, translated 
from a native Chinese journal, and the 
visit of Chinese envoys to the capital of 
Japan, with the account of which I have 
prefaced it, there is likely to be a close con- 
nection? It would seem from it, at least, 
that that large apathy with which we have 
been wont to credit China is no longer a 
characteristic of the situation. It would 
seem as if this vast empire were at last 
awakening and arousing herself nay, 
more: that for the first time in her history 
she is recognizing her deficiencies, and 
reaching out for help and guidance from 
a powerful neighbor in correcting them. 
Supposing, now, that she gets from Japan 



90 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

that help and guidance, we may be sure that 
Japan will be clever enough to make her 
pay for it. Indeed, the article which I have 
just been quoting goes on, at the close, to 
say: 

In regard to Japan, the Japanese secretly de- 
manded Amoy, and, further, they have secretly 
laid plans to usurp authority over the whole 
province of Fu-kien. Is not this proof enough 
that Japan also seeks to have her "sphere of in- 
fluence" in China? 

This indicates clearly enough that China 
recognizes the thirst for empire which 
burns in the breast of her neighbor. But it 
does not lessen the significance of words in 
which, in this same article, referring to 
Japan, this Chinese correspondent says: 

It must be remembered that Japan is a coun- 
try whose inhabitants are our brothers. We and 
they are companions who ride in the same car- 
riage. 

Precisely ; and when once the Chinese peo- 
ple as a whole grasp this fact, and when 
they consent, as they have now so lately 
indicated their readiness to consent, to 
learn the arts of war on sea and land from 
their clever and resourceful and most am- 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 91 

bitious neighbor, then let the West, in our 
homely but expressive phrase, clear the 
track for the inevitable changes that are 
destined to come to pass. 

It is this view of Japan that I confess 
to-day most of all interests me, and that I 
think must interest any student of history, 
ancient or modern. There is something 
fascinating in this picture of an ancient 
people, nobody knows quite how old or, 
with certainty, whence derived, awakening 
at last out of the slumber of its antiquated 
puerilities and superstitions, rousing itself 
from the paralysis of its ignorance and in- 
sularity, reaching forth to our Western life, 
its art, its letters, its science, its mechanical 
ingenuities, seizing their significance in its 
relations to the upbuilding of our Western 
civilizations with a marvelous rapidity, and 
then transferring them, with a rapidity 
scarcely less marvelous, to its own soil and 
its own life. 

"Alas," cries the artistic traveler, "how 
horrid to have all this Japanese charm and 
color despoiled by the introduction of our 
hideous American modernisms, noisy, fe- 
verish, and mechanical!" I think the ap- 
prehension is unnecessary. On the after- 
noon of the day on which occurred that 
opening of the Japanese Parliament to 



92 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

which I have already referred, I spent an 
hour with a Japanese statesman of great 
distinction, to whom I ventured to convey 
my sense of the dignity of the function of 
the morning, adding, however, the expres- 
sion of my hope that the prevalence of 
European costumes, uniforms, evening 
dress-suits, and the like, which distin- 
guished it, was not an indication of a fash- 
ion which was to prevail in Japan, where 
the national dress of both sexes is so much 
more graceful and beautiful than our own. 
"Oh, no," he laughingly replied, "I don't 
think it will. The emperor, as you saw, 
wore the dress of a European general ; but 
you may be sure that as soon as he got back 
to the imperial palace he took it off as 
promptly as possible." 

And in this there is a suggestion of what 
will continue to come to pass in Japan. At 
first it was natural enough that a people 
impressed with the value of those Western 
forces in which it had been so long and so 
conspicuously deficient should, in the effort 
to appropriate them, appropriate much that 
was accidental rather than essential, and in 
many instances for the moment mistake the 
relative value of the two. But all this will 
right itself in time indeed, has already 
begun to do so. ' ' Our men will be likely to 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 93 

adopt your dress, for it is a better working- 
dress than their own ; but our women no. ' ' 
And in this there was much discernment; 
for the dress of men among the Japanese 
has too much flowing drapery to make it a 
good working-dress, while, on the other 
hand, the dress of women, especially of el- 
derly women, has in it so much of what 
might be called the large charity of reserve 
but here I perceive that I am entering 
upon a domain in which my abundant igno- 
rance would make me an easy prey to femi- 
nine criticism, and I forbear. 

I wish, however, that in this connection I 
might give the substance of a conversation 
which I had with the distinguished states- 
man whom I have just quoted. The two 
foremost men in Japan to-day, for intel- 
lectual force and high qualities of leader- 
ship, are the Marquis Ito and Count Okumo. 
The former was kind enough to intimate 
his desire to see me and to make an appoint- 
ment to that end, of which, however, my en- 
gagements prevented me from availing 
myself. With the latter I had for a good 
part of an afternoon a conversation which 
was altogether unreserved, in which I was 
permitted to ask all sorts of questions, and 
throughout which I was impressed with the 
rare penetration, grasp, philosophic' can- 



94 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

dor, and statesmanlike sense of proportion 
of an unusually elevated and courageous 
thinker. Happy would it be for Japan if 
her policies could be directed by so firm 
and competent a hand. 

Count Okumo was full of hope for the 
future of his people; was not insensible to 
the dangers of the hasty superimposition 
upon an Asiatic people of Occidental forms 
of government; and described in a very 
interesting way the tentative experiments 
which were in progress for the purpose of 
training the people in some of those earlier 
departures from pure paternalism which 
are involved in the erection of something 
like an elective system in connection with 
municipal rule. 

Did he not apprehend, I asked, that 
among a people for so many generations 
wonted to the feudal system, with its tribe 
or clan and its tribal ruler, there would be 
danger of the reassertion of the power and 
influence of the feudal lord as against the 
freedom and purity of our elective system I 

Yes, he answered, he recognized that 
danger, though he recognized also, laugh- 
ingly, that it lurked in other systems where 
the feudal lord or chief was sometimes de- 
scribed as a ''boss"; but he believed that a 
higher and wider education was the remedy 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 95 

for that, and that the secret of the correc- 
tion of political as of other evils lay, first of 
all, in the intelligent recognition of them. 
And in this connection it was interesting to 
have pointed out to me by our able minister 
to Japan the schools for girls and young 
women which the count had founded and 
maintained at his own expense. There 
could be no better witness to his large faith 
in the nobler future of his own people. At 
the foundation of all national greatness lies 
a competent motherhood, and it is a note of 
the highest promise that so wise a leader 
should have recognized that fact and set 
about providing for it. 

That, in connection with the progress of 
Japan in these directions, there has been of 
late an impatience of her earlier teachers 
along these and other lines of Western 
progress, has excited considerable com- 
ment, and a not unnatural irritation in the 
United States. A little while ago Japan 
could not have too much or too many of us. 
"But now," as an aggrieved American 
manufacturer said to me, "we no sooner 
build their factories for them and teach 
them how to run them than they dismiss 
our superintendents and pack them home 
again. ' ' And why should they not ! They 
are building factories and maintaining 



96 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

them for their own profit, not ours; and I 
apprehend that American unpopularity in 
Japan is due, at any rate partly, to our 
over-eagerness to seize opportunities which 
the people themselves have discerned or 
created, and of which they themselves not 
unnaturally desire to reap the benefits. 
Personally, I cannot say that I encountered 
any evidence that foreigners are not as well 
treated and as cordially welcomed in Japan 
as they are, say, in Germany or France. 
The best that the world has is now, so far 
as they have awakened to the value of it, 
within their reach ; and if the process of as- 
similation is as rapid as the process of 
appropriation, no one may undertake to 
predict the measure of their future achieve- 
ment. They have great and largely unde- 
veloped national resources, exceptional en- 
ergy, a curiously quick prehensile quality 
in all mental processes, and a boundless 
ambition. 

And yet all these will not make a great 
nation, and that other thing which does they 
are confessedly without. I say i ' confessed- 
ly," because in a leading journal of Japan I 
found the following remarkable words: 

We have recently ventured to call attention 
in these columns to the demoralizing effect of 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 97 

the present transition of this country from old 
to new. We do not pretend to have done any- 
thing like justice to a question so complicated 
and so difficult to deal with ; but we believe that 
no sober-minded student of contemporary life 
and thought in this country, be he a Japanese or 
a foreigner, will dispute the fact that our people 
are now passing through an extremely critical 
period of their moral development. Nor will any 
such person be disposed to deny that the symp- 
toms of the moral malady as revealed in various 
walks of life are sufficiently grave to demand 
serious reflection on the part of the leaders of 
thought and action among us. Now the question 
is, What is the remedy, or is there any ? Before, 
however, proceeding to talk of the remedy, it 
would be well to see if the patient is at all con- 
scious of the gravity of his situation, for in the 
case of all moral diseases the awakening of the 
patient to the danger to which he is exposed is 
the essential condition for the efficacy of any 
remedy that may be applied to his complaint. 
From various indications noticed in public life 
as well as in private intercourse, we are led to 
conclude that the national consciousness is be- 
ginning to feel that something is wrong with the 
country in matters of conduct and belief. There 
have never been wanting men who have warned 
their countrymen against the moral danger to 
which they were exposed. Leaders of thought 
and reform like Mr. Fukuzawa, Mr. Sugiura, 
and some others have been calling the attention 
of the people to this very subject during the past 

7 



98 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

fifteen years or more. But the warnings of these 
moralists have hitherto failed to produce any 
marked impression upon the nation ; it is neces- 
sary that the evils of the times should make a 
certain progress in order that their real signifi- 
cance may be brought home to the generality 
of the people. Sufficient progress now seems 
to have been made in this undesirable direction, 
for, as already stated, there are unmistakable 
indications that the thinking portion of the peo- 
ple is slowly awakening to the reality of the 
situation. 

As to the question of the remedy, a large num- 
ber of our readers will, we presume, answer that 
nothing but religion will save the Japanese from 
utter moral degeneration. Or, to put it in a con- 
crete form, they will say that the only hope for 
us lies in our conversion to Christianity. We 
certainly recognize in Christianity a form of re- 
ligion inculcating a lofty standard of morality, 
powerful as a motive power. We recognize in it 
a factor which has played an important part in 
the development of European civilization. 

But, admitting all these things, we cannot be- 
lieve that it will ever succeed in getting a firm 
hold upon the minds of the educated class. Men 
of this class have for centuries lived and died 
under a system of morality which inculcates vir- 
tue for virtue's sake and entirely dispenses with 
supernatural sanctions of any sort. The result 
of acquaintance with the sciences brought by the 
new civilization has certainly not tended to turn 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 99 

the educated Japanese from their traditional 
attitude of mind on religious matters. 

If there is little hope for the adoption of 
Christianity by the educated sections of the peo- 
ple, is there better hope in that quarter for Bud- 
dhism? We should say decidedly not. Bud- 
dhism in its pure form has never been able to 
make much headway in Japan. As we pointed 
out in these columns some two years ago, it has 
only been able to obtain a footing here by adapt- 
ing itself to and humoring the original beliefs 
of the people. It has certainly done much good 
to Japan ; and utterly degenerate and hopelessly 
ignorant as are the majority of its priests, it 
is the professed religion of the bulk of the peo- 
ple and will die hard. But the days of its vigor 
are long since past ; there is nothing to encourage 
the hope that it will yet revive, at all events in 
such a form as to touch the imagination and in- 
fluence the life of the educated class. 

As to Shinto, we may dismiss it altogether out 
of our consideration. It can hardly be called a 
religion, and as a system of morality it is hope- 
lessly encumbered with a mass of legendary lore 
which will hardly bear the light of scientific 
criticism. 

The reader will doubtless ask, "If you reject 
the help of all religions, what is your remedy 
for the complaint you speak of?" To be frank, 
we have to confess that we cannot think of any 
specific cure for the present case, unless some 
teacher of extraordinary gifts makes his appear- 



100 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

ance among us to preach moral truths with a 
force and authority which belong to true genius. 
If there has been a serious moral relapse 
among us, it has been the result of the shock 
occasioned by our contact with a new civilization. 
In the general confusion that has attended our 
effort in breaking loose from the old order of 
things, it was natural that we should have fallen 
into the error of carrying Vandalism into the 
domain of moral life. The evil results of that 
error have now reached a point at which the na- 
tional consciousness cannot help awakening to 
the gravity of the situation. 

It will be impossible, I think, for any 
thoughtful person, whatever may be his 
creed or want of creed, to read these words 
without a sense of their profound pathos. 
This ancient people, waking with a new 
life, becomes conscious that neither arms 
nor battle-ships nor machinery, neither 
railways, factories, nor constitutional gov- 
ernment, make a great state ; because none 
of them, nor all of them put together, pro- 
duce that essential righteousness which is 
the essential strength of nations as of men. 
Misconceiving what that is for which the 
supernatural stands in the Christian re- 
ligion, the writer whom I have quoted fails 
to recognize that the supreme power of that 
religion lies in the fact that it furnishes 



IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN 101 

precisely that for which, unknowingly, he 
asks a "teacher of extraordinary gifts . . . 
to preach moral truths with a force and 
authority which belong to true genius" 
to do this, and infinitely more than this, 
by the spell of a divine Personality that 
touches and conquers the heart of man to- 
day even as it did when that spell first 
broke upon the moral consciousness of men 
two thousand years ago. For that, though 
as yet it but imperfectly discerns it, the new 
Japan is waiting. May the day be not long 
distant when from the lamps that Christian 
hands have lighted, and still more from the 
lives that Christian men and women have 
lived there, it shall see and own its coming 
Teacher, Saviour, King! 



IV 

IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 



IV 

IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 

IF one were asked to express in a single 
phrase that which exists in the Western 
mind as its distinctive conception of the 
land and the people included within the 
geographical boundaries of what we are 
wont to describe as India, it would oftenest 
be done, I imagine, by calling it the land of 
mystery. Western peoples are ordinarily, 
it may be presumed, as ignorant of China 
or Japan as they are of India ; and travelers 
have probably been as often obliged to cor- 
rect their earlier impressions of either of 
these countries in the light of a fuller 
knowledge. But no other people have in 
them so much that has been inscrutable, and 
that continues to be so, as those various 
tribes and states that extend from the Rus- 
sian frontier to the Indian Ocean. 

And the interesting thing is that this ele- 
ment of mystery does not disappear with 
closer observation or more intimate ac- 

105 



106 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

quaintance. It would be a small thing to 
say that my Bengali servant was inscruta- 
ble to me after several weeks of his con- 
stant companionship by day and by night, 
in travel, rest-houses, dak-bungalows, and 
inns, on shipboard, and in those frequent 
and quite unreserved conferences which 
are indispensable in travel between a for- 
eigner and one who is guide, valet, and 
interpreter all in one. Any traveler would 
say, doubtless, that to understand the occult 
mental processes and cryptographic speech 
of any foreign servant is easily beyond the 
cleverness of the most experienced mind- 
reader. But this inability to comprehend, 
and still more to forecast, the mental pro- 
cesses of these Orientals is, I have found, 
unreservedly admitted even by those who 
have known them for a generation. Indeed, 
the dramatic element of British rule in In- 
dia largely consists in that absence of 
certainty as to the character, motives, or 
possible conduct of those over whom they 
are set which I have often heard admitted 
on the part of their rulers. 

It is this that must needs lend to the land 
and to its people an exceptional and peren- 
nial interest. As in the costumes and cus- 
toms of other Eastern nations there is 
forever wanting that note of almost star- 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 107 

tling picturesqueness which salutes the 
stranger in India, so it is with all that 
costume and custom stand for. Prodi- 
gal wealth, Oriental splendor, subtlety in 
speech and action, inexhaustible craft, un- 
wearied furtiveness, swift and secret re- 
venges, hot passion and its reckless blow, 
far-seeing purposes and their marvelous 
adroitness of scheme and instrument, the 
tragedies of racial or tribal ambitions, the 
carelessness of life in warfare, the unspeak- 
able perfidies of intrigue in the lives of 
kings and courts, the surface gentleness 
and obsequiousness, and the hard glitter 
of undying hatreds that gleam beneath 
them these are some of the elements that 
long ago made up life in that strange land, 
and that are a long way from having van- 
ished out of it to-day. 

Under these circumstances, the presence 
of British rule in India, and the story of its 
achievements, is of its kind one of the most 
wonderful things in human history. It does 
not in the smallest degree matter that what 
has come to pass was not always a thing of 
forecast or the fruit of a set purpose in the 
beginning ; the marvelous thing is that, with 
no hesitating or unequal steps, it has come 
to pass. And, indeed, this is, in its way, one 
of the most impressive and significant f ea- 



108 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

tures of the whole Anglo-Indian historic 
evolution. The " Honorable East India 
Company" came into existence somewhere 
about the beginning of the seventeenth cen- 
tury. It was when Elizabeth was queen, 
and when that great renaissance that 
stirred England coincidently with her 
emancipation from Latin ecclesiastical tra- 
ditions and the benumbing influence of 
Latin standards of morals and conduct was 
throbbing through the veins of a great peo- 
ple and kindling all the avenues of her life, 
domestic, social, civic, and commercial, with 
the glow of a new and nobler life. "The 
Governor and Company of Merchants of 
London trading to the East Indies, ' ' as the 
corporation was styled, began in a modest 
way by sending out to the East a few ships 
to purchase silks, spices, and other Indian 
products. As the trade grew, an ambassa- 
dor was sent by King James to Jahangir 
to conduct such negotiations with the In- 
dian ruler as should best protect and foster 
the nascent commerce. That was the begin- 
ning. What a splendid galaxy of sailors, 
soldiers, rulers, statesmen, merchants it has 
been that, step by step, has built up the 
great empire of to-day ! In tracing its his- 
tory it is instructive, and especially for 
Americans, who have but lately embarked 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 109 

upon a similar enterprise, to see that that 
history was clouded by features as little 
honorable as they were equitable. The 
earlier Indian governor had no salary, and 
the art of the ' ' grand squeeze, ' ' as the Chi- 
nese describe it, was remorselessly applied, 
too often, by one who was the depositary of 
a largely irresponsible power. The Honor- 
able East India Company was for more 
than two hundred years a corporation 
whose British servants obtained and held 
their places largely by pure favoritism, and 
whose methods, it must be owned, were 
often eminently characteristic of officials 
holding place quite independent of their 
merits. Under these circumstances, the 
only wonder is that the "Honorable Com- 
pany ' ' was able so successfully to hold what 
from time to time it acquired, and to push 
its enterprises and its acquisitions to such 
large and enduring successes. The expla- 
nation must be found in the fact that, cor- 
rupt and unscrupulous as the earlier meth- 
ods of the East India Company may often 
have been, on the whole they were on a 
higher plane than those of the native 
princes whom they supplanted. 

Of the rule of these, it must be owned, 
the story was ordinarily a tragic and cruel 
one. The first British settlers in India 



110 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

found the land rent and divided by inter- 
nal dissensions, and its ruling powers in a 
state of constant warfare upon one another. 
In these wars the native princes learned, 
after a time, to seek the aid of those small 
bodies of the East India Company's troops, 
both European and native, which the com- 
pany had found it necessary to organize 
for the protection of its own settlements. 
When, however, such aid was given, it had 
to be paid for in one way or another; and 
thus the grants of land were made on which, 
afterward, were built Bombay, Calcutta, 
etc. As the student of Indian history will 
remember, these were not always securely 
held, and caste prejudice, racial prejudice, 
and the conquering propensities of tribal 
leaders led occasionally to attacks upon 
the English settlements, such as the sack- 
ing of Calcutta by Siraj-ud-Daula, Nawab 
of Bengal, with all the consequent horrors 
of the prison called the Black Hole, into 
which one hundred and forty-six Euro- 
peans were driven at night, and out of 
which only twenty-three persons were taken 
alive the next morning. But during the fol- 
lowing year (1757) Clive won the battle 
of Plassey, the English were supreme in 
Bengal, and India began to see the begin- 
ning of the end. 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 111 

Of the end, did I say? But who will be 
bold enough even to-day to prophesy the 
end? I shall speak later of the reasons 
which would seem to make it impossible, 
with any considerable degree of certainty, 
to forecast that end ; but in the meantime I 
wish to refer to some of the conspicuous 
features of British rule in India which 
make it, as I conceive, the greatest object- 
lesson in colonial government in the history 
of the world. 

And in order to appreciate the situation, 
both as it existed originally and as it exists 
to-day, it must be remembered that India is 
not in any sense a homogeneous country. 
The Indian empire contains 1,560,000 
square miles and a population of two hun- 
dred and eighty-seven millions, and these 
extend from the eighth to the thirty-seventh 
degree of north latitude, and from 67 east 
to 99 east longitude. 

It follows, of course, that there are great 
diversities of climate, soil, custom, and lan- 
guage, as there are also of native rule and 
religion. Even to-day the languages of the 
north and south are wholly different, and 
when I asked my Bengali servant, who was 
a native of central India and had traveled 
with me there, to accompany me to the 
southern provinces, he very properly urged 



112 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

that he could be of little or no use to me, be- 
cause he could not speak the languages of 
those provinces. More than this, as the 
modern student will see if he looks at a map 
of India and traces the ancient sovereign- 
ties for which its provincial names once 
stood, these various sections of the Indian 
peninsula were divided from one another 
by a score of petty sovereignties whose mu- 
tual hatreds were at once deep and malig- 
nant. Indeed, the way in which these sur- 
vive to-day in India, where, superimposed 
upon them all, is the strong hand of British 
rule, is at once tragic and pathetic. The 
traveler in India is early arrested, in his 
scrutiny of the natives, by the curious mark 
painted down, or across, their foreheads a 
round red disk, a yellow bar with displayed 
ends, three white stripes, and the like, in 
an endless variety of combinations. These 
are very commonly mistaken by the for- 
eigner as designations of caste, but they 
are nothing of the sort. They are tribal 
designations, and they still assert them- 
selves, though the tribal ruler prince, 
nawab, raja, whatever he may have been 
has long ago been dethroned, or is to-day 
as, if he exists at all, he so often is no 
more than the stuffed and bedizened simu- 
lacrum of a tribal ruler. Such signs are a 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 113 

dramatic witness to the intensity of that 
tribal bond with which, in the future his- 
tory of India as in the past, the conquer- 
ing power must reckon. 

It was with this vast and heterogeneous, 
not homogeneous, people that the Anglo- 
Saxon had to deal when the East India 
Company began to trade with the Indian 
peninsula, and among whom it has won its 
most splendid successes. I do not speak of 
other colonial settlements in India, French, 
Dutch, or Spanish, because they have 
largely disappeared, and because the sur- 
vival of that other power which has super- 
seded them has been eminently a survival 
of the fittest. One of these days, the time 
has not come for it yet, some dispassion- 
ate student will write a comparative history 
of colonization, and will point out the ele- 
ments that have contributed, where coloni- 
zation has succeeded, to its success. It is 
quite certain that "originally, in the case of 
India and the East India Company, they 
did not in any considerable degree exist, 
any more than, in the case of the French 
colonies, they exist in Algeria to-day. The 
first aim of a great commercial corporation 
was, naturally enough, commercial gain; 
and while Warren Hastings was undoubt- 
edly not the monster that Burke painted 



114 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

him, yet so long as the East India Company 
had large and undefined and exclusive 
rights in India, it is not surprising that 
they should have abused them. The Brit- 
ish Parliament did wisely when it annulled 
the East India Company's charter of 1600, 
and later followed the lead of Pitt, in 1784, 
in passing his India bill, and, later still, in 
taking those successive steps that trans- 
ferred the custody of India to the crown. 
It is difficult for one who visits India for 
the first time to realize that this was done 
so lately as 1858. That was the year follow- 
ing the Mutiny; and the bloody history of 
the Mutiny prepares the modern student to 
understand something of the Indian mind 
and temper. As Sir W. Hunter, than whom 
no higher authority in Indian history ex- 
ists, has put it: 

During seven hundred years the warring races 
of Central Asia and Afghanistan filled up their 
measure of bloodshed and pillage to the full. 
Sometimes they returned with their spoil to their 
mountains, leaving only desolation behind ; some- 
times they killed off or drove out the former in- 
habitants and settled down in India as lords of 
the soil ; sometimes they founded imperial dynas- 
ties, destined to be crushed each in its turn by 
a new host sweeping into India through the 
Afghan passes. The precise meaning of inva- 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 115 

sion in India during the last [eighteenth] cen- 
tury may be gathered from the following facts: 
It signified not merely a host of twenty to a hun- 
dred thousand barbarians on the march, paying 
for nothing and eating up every town and cot- 
tage and farm-yard; burning and slaughtering 
on the slightest provocation, and often in mere 
sport. It usually also meant a grand final sack 
and massacre at the capital of the invaded 
country. 

And besides these wars from without were 
the intestine conflicts in which Hindu 
fought with Hindu, Mohammedan with Mo- 
hammedan, and each with the other. The 
readers of Macaulay will remember his de- 
scription of the unspeakable brutalities of 
the Mahrattas. The story of the bloody 
ravages of Pindarees, of the Sultan Mo- 
hammed Shah of Gulbarga, and of the 
Hindu Maharaja of Vijayanager (the first- 
named of whom swore an oath on the Koran 
that he would not sheathe the sword until 
he had put to death a hundred thousand 
infidels), is told by Meadows Taylor in his 
''Indian History" with a ghastly detail 
that no one who has read it can recall with- 
out a shudder. 

It was amid such a condition of interne- 
cine warfare and unrest as this that the first 
English settlers in India found themselves. 



116 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW ' 

I may not attempt to trace here the succes- 
sive steps by which British rule has built up 
in that land the present structure of order, 
peace, and security. But however men may 
differ about the wisdom or originality of 
those successive steps, there can be no 
question as to that which is their founda- 
tion-stone. I was exceptionally fortunate, 
while in India, in coming into more than 
ordinarily close contact with educated na- 
tives, both Hindu and Mohammedan, who 
spoke to me often with marked unreserve of 
the rule under which they lived, and of the 
rulers who administered it. I suppose no- 
body who reads these pages will expect me 
to say that they spoke always with enthusi- 
asm of the one, or with affection of the 
other. They did nothing of the sort; and 
indeed I have observed that in our own be- 
loved land and under our own honored rul- 
ers it cannot be said to be an invariable 
experience that we refer to the law or to the 
administrator of the law in terms of either 
admiration or approval. In other words, 
criticism and fault-finding, whether con- 
cerning the rule or the ruler, would appear 
to be considered as a primary function of 
the modern citizen. Well, it is not greatly 
different in India, Why should it be? It 
is a land of newspapers, of free speech, and 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 117 

of much public and published fault-finding 
of officials and their decisions, great and 
small. We should say that among ourselves 
this is wholesome and normal, and far more 
to be desired than smothered discontent or 
a concealed smoldering hostility. I do not 
see why it should not be so in India, espe- 
cially when one takes into consideration an 
additional element in the situation there 
which is, in fact, of all the most important. 
As I have said, I conversed with great 
unreserve with many natives concerning 
British rule in India, and influential men 
among them expressed themselves to me 
with great freedom. They had grievances 
to rehearse and officials and their acts to 
criticize, but this one thing, from first to 
last, always and everywhere, was plain 
that they recognized that with the mainte- 
nance and permanence of British rule in 
India marched the safety of life and prop- 
erty, freedom to go about unmolested on 
one's honest errands, the peace and good 
order, in one word, of the social fabric. 
They would like to see the old dynasties, 
sovereignties, greater or lesser principali- 
ties and powers with which in other days 
their race or family had been identified, re- 
stored? Yes, perhaps, if it could 'be done 
without too great a cost. But the cost? 



118 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

To face that it was plain enough they had 
no stomach. Under the present conditions 
the humblest Indian servant knows this one 
fact, which of all others is of paramount 
consequence to him: he is no longer the 
creature of another man's whim; his life, 
his property, his right to go to and fro, 
his family ties, his task or employment- 
all these things are within his own control. 
That he knows. And he knows that British 
rule in India has given this to him and se- 
cured it to him. He knows that underneath 
all the dealing of this alien race with him 
and his there lies the broad stone of justice ; 
that no man, stranger or home-born, may 
wrong him with impunity; and that, how- 
ever weak he may be, he need be the favor- 
ite of no prince, the fawning tool of no ca- 
pricious rule, in order to secure for himself 
and those dear to him their rights and his 
own. 

Now, then, carry this consideration from 
the lowest to the highest in the Indian 
social scale. With a consummate tact and 
wisdom which cannot be too highly praised, 
the present ruling power in India, instead 
of sweeping into oblivion with its strong 
hand the various powers which it had su- 
perseded, has dealt with each one of them, 
great and small, in accordance with this 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 119 

large law of equity. If a state or a ruler 
had in them anything to conserve, the im- 
perial authority has conserved it. If a ma- 
haraja showed himself amenable to reason, 
and willing to hold such power as was 
intrusted to him from a power above him 
which was strong enough to maintain his 
just right, some modus Vivendi was speed- 
ily devised by which the status quo ante 
was maintained. Around the person of the 
Viceroy of India, by gradual but sure pro- 
gressions, the great Indian princes have 
been drawn in a Council of State for the 
consideration of common interests and the 
maintenance of common rights. Doubtless 
there are sometimes restlessness, impa- 
tience of the dry Western rule, resentment, 
and smoldering enmity. But suppose that 
the powers which once ruled India could 
recover their old sovereignties, there is not 
one of them that does not know that the 
next step would be to fly at one another's 
throats. It does not seem to have occurred 
to people who are fond of prophesying that 
British rule cannot hope to maintain itself 
in India, because it is an alien rule, and who 
sagely remind us that when once the man 
is found from among themselves who can 
unite the various Indian states and nation- 
alities of the elder time, this united India 



120 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

will be strong enough to sweep the Saxon 
out of his country, root and branch it does 
not, I say, seem to have occurred to these 
clever seers that the present rule in India 
has built up a strong and wide-spread con- 
stituency to whom such a prospect is only 
and wholly distasteful. For when some 
such great revolutionary movement had ac- 
complished its purpose and the last Briton 
had been either butchered or expelled from 
India, then there would arise the question 
which to-day the educated and, above all, 
the wealthy native would ask himself, in 
the spirit of a modern Frenchman, "Et 
apres?" A great Indian merchant with 
whom I became acquainted, and who felt, I 
suppose, that he might express himself to 
an American with such freedom as he might 
not otherwise indulge in, referred with 
some feeling to the fact that, except undef 
limited and special conditions, the people of 
India were not trusted with arms, nor al- 
lowed to govern themselves. "But, then," 
he said, with that quick mental turn which 
is so curious a characteristic of the Oriental 
mind, ' ' if we were permitted to govern our- 
selves, it would take a great deal of money 
and time and involve a great many risks, 
while, now, British imperialism does it all 
for us and leaves us free to go about our 



IMPRESSIONS OP INDIA 121 

business with, perhaps, a greater sense of 
security than we should otherwise have." 
As a matter of fact, there was no "per- 
haps ' ' in his mind whatever. He was a rich 
man, and he knew there was no slightest 
question of surmise that if British rule 
were to vanish out of India, security for him 
and his would speedily vanish with it. 

An observer of romantic tendencies 
might easily deplore this, and ask, "Is the 
old heroic, if often barbaric, spirit of India 
a vanished quantity?" I may not under- 
take to answer that question. One thing is 
certain: British rule in India has taught 
its people to value peace, the safety of life 
and property, and the privilege of going 
quietly and securely about one's business. 
I am not sure that we who call ourselves of 
the superior races are indifferent to these 
things. 

But that rule has taught the people of 
India a great deal more. I suppose that to 
a certain class of minds the temper that 
prompts one to fly at his neighbor's throat 
and to resent an injury with a blow will 
always be regarded as the * * heroic ' ' spirit ; 
but there is another view of heroism which 
it is to be hoped will continue to have its 
disciples, and which holds that self-re- 
straint and courageous endurance, self- 



122 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORKOW 

reliance and a noble patience under inju- 
ries, that temperance, frugality, industry, 
and discontent only with ignorance, evil, 
and injustice, may also have in them some 
element of heroism. At any rate, that is 
the lesson which British imperialism has 
been teaching India, and which India most 
needed to learn. 

Let me here anticipate the traveled critic 
who has seen the short, brusque, and some- 
times violent ways of the British soldier or 
the British cad with a native servant or 
coolie or inferior of whatever class. No- 
body who has been in India needs to be told 
that, with the relations existing there, such 
things are inevitable, but nobody who 
knows anything about the facts needs any 
more to be told that such acts are limited 
by an authority and punished with an im- 
partiality which in the case of the govern- 
ment of a conquered people by the con- 
quering nation is absolutely unique. There 
is, in this connection, if any one desires it, 
an opportunity for comparison in the case 
of the treatment by the Boers of the blacks 
in South Africa which has in it a whole vol- 
ume of meaning. Such wanton cruelty, 
such habitual brutality, as are notoriously 
characteristic of the Boers' treatment of 
their native servants have no more place in 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 123 

India than the practices of the thugs or 
dakoits; and the humblest native in India 
knows that, in the case of whatever injustice 
he may experience from those above him, 
he has a court or civil magistrate where his 
appeal will have a swift and impartial hear- 
inga court in part, at least, of persons of 
his own race, and an attorney, if he chooses, 
of his own speech and lineage. 

Indeed, the system of civil jurisprudence 
as, with unexampled wisdom and equity, it 
has been built up in India, is one of the 
most marvelous features in all its modern 
history. Both the Hindu and Mohammedan 
governments, it must be remembered, were 
pure despotisms. An Indian ruler looked 
upon his kingdom as his private property, 
from which he was at liberty to exact what 
he could and spend it as he pleased. He 
could, personally, deprive his subjects of 
liberty, property, or life itself, as he saw fit. 
One illustration of this will suffice : 



The Governor Ahmadabad, about the year 
1646, invited the principal directors of the Eng- 
lish and Dutch trading companies to an enter- 
tainment, of which, as usual, displays of danc- 
ing-girls were among the chief features. One 
party having danced themselves out, another 
was sent for, but for some reason they refused 



124 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

to come. They were then forcibly dragged into 
the presence of the governor. He listened to 
their excuse, laughed at it, and immediately com- 
manded his guards to strike off their heads. 
They begged their lives, but in vain, and the exe- 
cutions were immediately proceeded with in the 
presence of the guests. Horrified by the spec- 
tacle, the strangers could not conceal their emo- 
tions, whereupon the governor burst out laugh- 
ing, and asked them what it was that had 
disturbed them. 1 

In contrast to this sort of despotism, the 
same writer tells us that to-day in India 

the meanest coolie is entitled to all the solemn 
formalities of a judicial trial; and the punish- 
ment of death, by whomsoever administered and 
on whomsoever inflicted, without the express 
decree of the law, is a murder for which the 
highest officer of the government is as much ac- 
countable as a sweeper would be for the assas- 
sination of the governor-general in durbar. 2 

In other words, human life is to-day more 
secure in India than in Kentucky. 

But when you have secured justice, you 
have not necessarily secured progress. In- 
ertia may paralyze endeavor, and an exag- 

1 "The Indian Empire: A Handbook," etc., p. 38. 
8 Ibid. 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 125 

gerated conservatism successfully resist the 
aspirations of national development. And 
here the problem in India was the more dif- 
ficult because the racial traditions and ten- 
dencies of the people were all on one side. 
Therefore the quiet determination, the 
steady and undaunted perseverance, which 
have overcome these racial characteristics, 
which have awakened a wholesome ambi- 
tion, developed local enthusiasms, educated 
and wisely directed particular energies and 
activities, are something which challenges 
the warmest admiration. One of the most 
picturesque spots in India is Darjeeling, 
that superb elevation from which one gets 
the incomparable vision of the Himalayas, 
with the matchless peak of Everest in the 
far distance. But quite as wonderful in its 
way is the journey thither, over a railway 
that climbs a height of six thousand feet 
from the plains below, surmounting engi- 
neering difficulties, all the way, which are 
a wonder to the traveler and a perpetual 
study to the civil engineer. And as one 
traces these successive conquests, he sees 
in them no inapt symbol of what the ruling 
power in India has been doing all over the 
land: building its highways, widening and 
deepening its watercourses, fertilizing its 
deserts, draining its swamps; the builder 



126 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

everywhere of schools and colleges, hospi- 
tals and infirmaries; inspiring its agricul- 
ture, grading and replanting its forests, 
founding and developing manufactories; 
and over all shedding the light of a pure 
and undefiled religion in the midst of a 
people darkened and besotted by centuries 
of ignorance and superstition. In the cow- 
temple or the monkey-temple at Benares 
one may see what the religion of the Hindu 
can do to touch with the spell of a higher 
hope an immortal nature, and in the Church 
of England schools at Agra, as I saw them, 
one may see what Christianity does do. 

And in all this organized effort and per- 
sistent endeavor the finest element is not the 
machinery, admirable as so often that is, 
but the man. My journeyings through the 
East brought me in many ways and in 
widely diverse places in the Straits Set- 
tlements, in Benares, and in Arabia, as well 
as in India itself in contact with the Brit- 
ish official, than whom there is no finer 
specimen of public servant in all the world. 
It was my privilege, too, to make the per- 
sonal acquaintance of a large number of 
such officials from the highest to the lowest; 
and from one extreme to the other, wher- 
ever I encountered them, they were dis- 
tinguished by three invariable character- 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 127 

istics which are of foremost value, I venture 
to think, in making a competent public 
servant. 

1. The first of these that impressed me 
was the sense of responsibility. The 
American traveler who has had any ex- 
tended opportunities for observing public 
servants, in whatever capacity and of what- 
ever nationality other than his own, must, 
I think, have been sensible of this. Our 
own national note just here is too often that 
of flippancy, illustrating itself now by the 
levity, now by the audacity, with which a 
diplomatic representative will treat a duty 
or an occasion which certainly was worthy 
of something more than either. A fine 
specimen of American independence and 
contempt for effete rulers has been cited in 
the anecdote of the ambassador who is said 
to have replied to an Oriental potentate 
who sent for him to say that he understood 
that a newspaper in the United States had 
spoken disrespectfully of the Sultan: "A 
newspaper in the United States speak dis- 
respectfully of your Majesty? Why, sir, 
there are twenty thousand newspapers in 
the United States that give your Majesty 
h 1 every morning. ' ' But that such a style 
of diplomatic intercourse could be seriously 
regarded as anything else than insolent and 



128 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

vulgar, no intelligent person will care seri- 
ously to urge. It was, however, character- 
istic of its kind, and it was a dramatic illus- 
tration of an incapacity to appreciate the 
representative responsibility of a public 
servant. Of the absence of this incapacity, 
public service in India is an impressive 
example. Wherever one encountered that 
service it was marked by simple dignity, by 
a careful regard for the accuracy of an 
official statement, by a painstaking en- 
deavor that the demand for official action 
or intervention should rest upon the sure 
basis of justice, equity, and right legal pre- 
scription, and, what was often best of all, 
by a scrupulous, considerate, and patient 
courtesy, which perpetually reminded one 
that the individual had learned to sink him- 
self, his own swaggering self -consciousness, 
ease, sensitiveness, or preferences, in what 
was due from him as the servant of a great 
state and the representative of a great peo- 
ple. It was this one note that, wherever one 
came in contact with a government official 
of whatever rank or class, lent to what he 
did an explicit character of distinction. 

2. And higher and finer even than this 
was what, for want of any other term to de- 
scribe it, I may call the note of sympathy. 
The distance between an Eastern and a 



IMPEESSIONS OF INDIA 129 

Western mind must be measured, somebody 
has said, not by miles, but by centuries. 
With all our best endeavors, I presume we 
shall never be quite able, with our nurture 
and ancestry, to attain the Asiatic's point 
of view. But to strive to get nearer to it, to 
be considerate and patient in view of our 
remoteness from it, and, best of all, forever 
to recognize the common humanity which 
underlies all racial distinctions, and in the 
brotherhood of which alone we can hope 
to build the kingdom of the future, this is 
the endeavor which India's great rulers, 
Hastings, Wellesley, Cornwallis, the Law- 
rences, Lord Dalhousie, and their greater 
and lesser compeers, have splendidly and 
consistently illustrated. Not long before I 
visited northeastern India, its mountain 
region had been desolated by unparalleled 
storms which had caused not only enormous 
destruction, but, in some instances, appal- 
ling loss of life. In connection with one of 
these, there had been some remarkable ex- 
hibitions of heroism in the rescue of per- 
sons in peril; and the commissioner of a 
certain district decided that these deserved 
some formal and official recognition, and 
arranged for the presentation of gold med- 
als to certain civil and military officers, 
policemen and others, who had so distin- 



130 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

guished themselves. Among these the case 
of two natives, coolies, was brought to his 
notice, who had at the repeated risk of 
their own lives and with rare gallantry 
saved the lives of some English women and 
children. The commissioner, after due in- 
vestigation, decided that these two men 
were eminently deserving of the gold medal 
of honor, and that it should be conferred 
upon them. But the presentations were to 
be made by a high official of the general 
government in a public hall, in a town near 
to the scenes of disaster, and before a great 
throng of the foremost people of the prov- 
ince, and beyond the breech-cloth the 
coolies had no clothes. In this dilemma the 
commissioner himself, and at his own ex- 
pense, had them suitably habited, and they 
appeared side by side with men of high 
rank, and received the decoration which 
they had so justly won. "And now they 
wear it," said a near kinswoman of the 
commissioner, "and wear usually almost 
nothing else. They are desperately poor, 
and rarely earn more than four annas 
[eight cents] a day." "But they will not 
keep the gold medals long," I said; "their 
poverty will, I imagine, soon induce them 
to part with them. " " Never, ' 'was the swift 
answer, given with flashing eye. "They 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 131 

will never forget how they won them and 
who gave them to them." And I believe 
her. The government of India and its offi- 
cial representative meant, henceforth, to 
these men that which had made the hum- 
blest and least dowered lives in all the land 
sharers in glory and honor and civic im- 
mortality with the highest. How wise the 
tact, how sure the insight, how resistless 
the spell of that human sympathy that could 
here first discern its opportunity and then 
use it with such rare felicity! 

3. But public servants may have the 
sense of official responsibility and the grace 
of personal sympathy, and yet be without 
that chief qualification for the public ser- 
vice which consists in trained capacity. 
And here has been the preeminent quality 
of Indian public service of whatever kind. 
The history of the Honorable East India 
Company's service was of another kind. 
Then a "pull" was the chief requisite to 
admission. But the time came when Eng- 
land learned what every other country 
that has undertaken to aolminister foreign 
dependencies will have to learn that 
without a competent and competently 
trained civil service colonial possessions 
are simply a school for every dishonesty 
and a screen for every injustice. No man 



132 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

is appointed to any place whatever in India 
without a certain preliminary training, and, 
when that is concluded, the application of 
certain definite and searching tests to verify 
the results which such training is supposed 
to produce. The only objection to which 
this system is open, if I have read aright 
the arguments in our own country and es- 
pecially upon the floor of Congress, is that 
it is liable to produce an official class or 
caste, which will hold the public offices as 
a sort of hereditary possession, passed on 
from one set of office-holders to another, 
to the exclusion of that rare and gifted body 
of men who are the tools of our congress- 
men and senators in primary meetings, 
political conventions, and State legisla- 
tures, and whose services can be properly 
rewarded only by their appointment, on the 
nomination of these political lights, to po- 
sitions for which they have never been 
trained and for which, oftener than other- 
wise, they have not the remotest qualifica- 
tion. Well, it would be interesting if some 
one would take the trouble to compare even 
with the best specimens of our own public 
servants an Indian public servant of the 
second or even the third generation, men 
whose fathers, like Lord Roberts 's, were 
public servants there themselves, and who, 



IMPEESSIONS OF INDIA 133 

in grave emergencies and in the long-con- 
tinued discharge of the gravest responsi- 
bilities, have illustrated characteristics that 
are so utterly remote in their high qualities 
of excellence from our own patent Con- 
gress-made article as to be to such a crea- 
ture altogether unintelligible. 

It would be unjust to conclude this chap- 
ter without recognizing dangers in the fu- 
ture of India, which are inseparable from 
the social situation in that part of the Brit- 
ish empire, and which will need for their 
solution a large wisdom and, it may be, a 
still larger courage. One of these, it must 
be obvious, is likely to follow from that ra- 
cial transfusion which almost literally to- 
day is coming to pass in India. Through 
licit or illicit unions of the ruling race with 
the natives there is now in India a consider- 
able population of mixed blood, of which I 
observed little was said, but concerning 
which one would think there must needs be 
on the part of reflecting persons consider- 
able thought. This element, which is de- 
scribed by the general term "Eurasian," 
represents a community which has parted 
company with Asiatic traditions, and which 
in manners, dress, and ambitions is appar- 
ently altogether identified with those for- 
eigners whose racial inheritance in part it 



134 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

shares. From this class comes in large 
numbers that element which is represented 
in India in civil posts of minor responsi- 
bility, in the preservation of the public 
peace, in the administration of railways, 
etc. They are usually found to be fairly 
efficient and trustworthy, and they are not 
unnaturally ambitious of official place and 
social position so far as either of these is 
within their reach. Naturally, their only 
hope or expectation in these directions is 
from their European connections, as, ob- 
viously, their intermarriages or more ir- 
regular domestic relations with Europeans 
have inevitably cut them off from the na- 
tive races and castes of whatever desig- 
nation. 

At present this element in India is a dis- 
tinctly subordinate and inconsiderable one ; 
but the causes which have already made it 
so evident a factor in the problem of the 
future seem likely to make it increasingly 
so. If I were a statesman concerned with 
the future of India, I should watch it closely 
and not without considerable apprehension. 
As it exists at present it does not impress 
one as greatly efficient or formidable in any 
direction. But it is not difficult to conceive 
that a time may come when native races in 
India, awakening from their lethargy, may 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 135 

address themselves to the acquisition of a 
modern civilization, and agencies and in- 
struments of revolt or aggression which, 
they now despise ; and when aware, as they 
already are, that there is no real fellowship 
between the Eurasian and European ele- 
ments in India, they may make such terms 
with the former as, appealing to their cu- 
pidity or their ambition, may make them 
formidable allies in some large and united 
effort for ridding the land of its foreign 
rulers. History furnishes just here paral- 
lels which I need not recall ; and in the mat- 
ter, preeminently, of revolutions which are 
both social and political, history repeats 
itself. To-day the Eurasian in India be- 
lieves that his interests are \dentical with 
those of its rulers. But the time may easily 
come when, weary of waiting for a recog- 
nition which as yet has never come, and 
which is likely to continue to hold him at 
arm's-length, and itself aloof from him, 
the man of mixed blood may turn to the 
people of that other blood which he has not 
been allowed to forget still flows in his 
veins, and confederated with which he may 
one day prove himself a potential factor 
in the empire-building of the future. 

There is still one other element in the 
problem of India which one cannot over- 



136 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

look if lie would I mean the religious ele- 
ment. The traveler who has followed his 
guide into the temples of Burma, India, and 
Ceylon must surely have brought away 
with him impressions which time can never 
efface. Some of them are pathetic, others, 
as at the Burning Ghats at Benares, are 
profoundly tragic, but all of them, to any 
sensitive mind, are intensely repulsive. It 
seems inconceivable, at first, that any sane 
human being can find in rites that are so 
puerile, so tawdry, and so inane, anything 
that expresses in any worthy way any re- 
ligious idea. It is in vain that one is re- 
minded that in many of these heathen 
temples there is much that recalls similar 
rites and instrumentalities in forms of 
Christianity that affect a very venerable 
authority for what they do. One can only 
say, so much the worse for such forms. But 
the thing that is of chief consequence in the 
whole dreary business is its profound hold 
upon the faith and affections of millions of 
people, and the meager impression which as 
yet a higher civilization, which is itself the 
product of a purer form of faith, has made 
upon it. 

It is at this point that our popular im- 
pression of the influence, e.g., of Christian 
institutions and especially of Christian 



IMPRESSIONS OF INDIA 137 

missions is, I am disposed to think, erro- 
neous. Said a member of the Oxford Mis- 
sion in Calcutta, with a fine courage for 
which one could not sufficiently honor him, 
"We had been here three years before we 
made one convert"; but he added, "When 
one remembers what his departure from his 
old fellowships cost him, one need not won- 
der." Nor, indeed, can any one who under- 
stands what an absolute expulsion from all 
earlier ties, fellowships, and recognitions 
on the part of kindred or friends such 
a step involves. But, on the other hand, 
one who understands what has been going 
on all the time since England entered 
India will recognize that slowly but surely 
old traditions have been weakening and old 
lines of separation disappearing, so that, 
step by step, the dawn of a better and a 
brighter day is drawing near. I should be 
violating personal confidences if I should 
furnish the evidence of this which came to 
me in private conversation with Brahmans 
of high rank and official station; but I vio- 
late no confidence in saying that, among the 
most thoughtful and clear-sighted of these, 
it is coming to be more and more clearly 
perceived that the task is a hopeless one 
which claims to be able to hold the minds 
and faith of a people who read and think 



138 THE EAST .OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

to the outworn shibboleths of a corrupt and 
sensuous paganism. And meanwhile the 
work which Christian missionaries of many 
names but of one noble aim are doing in all 
these lands, in schools, in homes, in hospi- 
tals, in nurseries, in colleges, and in the 
hearts and lives of shame-bowed and sor- 
row-burdened men and women, is above all 
praise, as it is above all price. Much of the 
best of this work is our own. And herein 
and hereby is the divinest transfusion of 
all the transfusion of the divinest Life of 
all into theirs who still walk in darkness 
and the shadow of death. May God, who 
has inspired it, crown it with complete 
success ! 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 

DURING a recent voyage across the Pa- 
cific, our evenings in the steamer's 
fine saloon were often beguiled by the 
music of various races and tongues. A 
modern ship's company has as little homo- 
geneity in nationality as in interests; and 
to a traveler of philosophic temperament 
few things are more interesting than to note 
the ways in which this fact at first betrays 
itself, only to melt away before a great 
while, if there be the opportunity of a long 
voyage, into a kindly and neighborly tem- 
per which enforced proximity makes both 
sensible and mutually agreeable. Our 
transatlantic racers, it is true, offer little 
or no chance for anything of this sort. The 
voyage is scarcely begun before it is ended, 
and the conventions of social reserve, and 
sometimes the memory of rather painful 
experiences, conspire to beget in the trav- 

141 



142 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEKOW 

eler a habit of repression, if not of exclu- 
siveness. But in a long Pacific voyage it is 
different People who are destined to be 
two or three weeks together in the same 
ship and at the same table sooner or later 
conclude to make the best of the situation, 
and one and all bring out their store of 
amusements or accomplishments for the 
common benefit. 

It is to this that we owed, on an evening 
that will always be memorable, the privi- 
lege of listening to some Hawaiian songs 
accompanied by a running commentary 
both descriptive and historical, to which I 
am bound to say I am indebted, in its larger 
suggestions, for the outlines of this chapter. 
The singer and performer for he was 
both was an American gentleman whose 
name, if I were at liberty to record it here, 
would be familiar to many American ears ; 
and he brought to his task a rare and most 
individual charm. He was born in Hono- 
lulu, of an ancestry identified with the ear- 
liest missionary history of the Sandwich 
Islands, and he united in himself the fine 
insight of his New England forefathers 
and the sunny vivacity of Oahu. The in- 
strument which he used was a primitive 
guitar consisting of a wooden bowl with 
metal strings across its open face ; the notes 



IMPEESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 143 

were produced by a manipulation analo- 
gous to that of a banjo ; and along with this 
he undertook to give a brief history of the 
evolution of Hawaiian music. Some of us 
had heard it or thought we had while in 
the islands, and had been much struck with 
both its plaintiveness and its tunefulness. 
It was a rude shock to learn that, in its 
primitive and unadulterated form, Ha- 
waiian music had neither characteristic; 
and that for the obvious reason that it 
consisted in thumping the bottom of the 
wooden bowl and twanging a single string. 
The performer then illustrated how these 
elementary modes of expressing musical 
ideas had been influenced by the incom- 
ing of civilization; how the Hawaiians 
had caught the airs of the missionary 
hymns and modified them by their own in- 
terpretation of them; and finally how, as 
the element of civilized life became more 
pervasive and potential, the music of the 
native and the manipulation of his instru- 
ments took up into themselves everything 
and it was apparently not much that was 
intelligible to the native mind, even to the 
last negro or music-hall melody. 

The whole was a parable of really large 
suggestiveness. For one could not but see 
in it how what had come to pass in connec- 



144 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

tion with something that, after all, was a 
very small part of a people 's life, was that 
which had taken place in other and far 
graver aspects of that life. There was, in 
other words, first the primitive simplicity 
and barbarism of that life, with all its 
charm and all its dreaminess ; and then, step 
by step, there came to be, out of the mere 
babel of primal instincts and acts, like pri- 
mal noises, something increasingly com- 
plex, increasingly pathetic, and sometimes, 
alas! increasingly tragic. 

For one cannot read the story of the abo- 
riginal days of these beautiful islands with- 
out being sensible first of all of their charm. 
In their merely natural aspect this, in its 
almost dramatic contrasts, has a unique fas- 
cination. As the Hawaiian Islands rise out 
of the sea to the vision of one who sees them 
for the first time from the deck of a ship, 
their aspect is both rugged and august. 
The mountain-ranges are distinguished by 
great strength of outline and boldness of 
proportion ; and, as seen against the sky, as 
we saw them, with the moon rising behind 
them, have in them something indescriba- 
bly mysterious and noble. But as they are 
more nearly approached, they are seen to 
be clothed almost to their summits with a 
rich verdure, and this has a singularly gra- 
cious quality of softness and depth. 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 145 

This feature in the landscape seems 
somehow typical of the people. Their his- 
tory reveals them as distinguished by char- 
acteristics of great savagery and cruelty; 
but their ordinary aspect, and their un- 
spoiled manner toward strangers, where it 
still survives, is one of an individual and 
most unusual charm. No one who has seen 
them will find himself tempted to compare 
them to any other people or race. Wher- 
ever they derived the traits of form and 
feature that distinguish them, and their 
racial origin is hidden in considerable ob- 
scurity, they do not resemble the races or 
people from whom they are supposed to be 
sprung. The race found by the first ex- 
plorer, Juan de Gatan, commander of the 
Spanish exploring expeditions sent out 
when the ships of Spain dominated the 
waters of the Pacific, was Polynesian; but 
it has not been claimed that any other Poly- 
nesians closely resembled them. It is un- 
doubtedly the case that, during their long 
occupancy of the beautiful islands in which 
they found their home, they underwent 
those changes which, as Buckle in his ' l His- 
tory of Civilization" has shown, are as in- 
evitable as the effect of climatic and kin- 
dred influences. In a latitude in which the 
range of the thermometer, all the year 
round, is ordinarily between 75 and 85 



146 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

F., it is not probable that great robustness 
or aggressive vigor would be developed; 
and it has not been. On the other hand, in 
a region singularly favorable to the develop- 
ment of almost every variety of tropical and 
semi-tropical fruits and flowers, without the 
arid and desolating influence of long 
droughts, it was equally to be expected that 
this rare beauty and affluence in every nat- 
ural environment should find its reflec- 
tion in the singular softness, grace, and 
beauty of the people. The mountains make 
them strong and stalwart, their height, 
grace, and symmetry of physical develop- 
ment are especially noteworthy, and their 
plains, fertile, flowery, and ever verdant, 
make them soft and indolent and self- 
indulgent. No stranger can see them for 
the first time, disfigured as they now too 
often are by the hideous costumes of our 
modern civilization, without being dazzled 
sometimes by a beauty of form and feature 
and of expression which, to an artist's eye, 
when they are seen in their own lovely set- 
ting, is a perpetual delight. * * Here, ' ' such 
a one would be tempted to say, "is some- 
thing like the original Garden of Eden, as 
it might have been." 

Yet the earlier and tribal history of the 
people was neither beautiful nor engaging. 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 147 

In the Bishop Museum in Honolulu, a foun- 
dation which owes its existence to the wise 
munificence of a Hawaiian princess who 
was, at the time of her death, the wife of an 
American merchant in Honolulu, we may 
see not alone the emblems and implements 
of domestic life, but those others which in 
the history of the most primitive peoples 
are the symbols of its religion. Along with 
these one may read, too, if his curiosity 
leads him in such a direction, the story of 
that strange admixture of grotesque be- 
liefs, rites, and priestly terrorism which 
repeats a story that, alas ! in the history of 
the world's religions, is as old as the race. 
Two elements go, ordinarily, to make up 
these religions, and they were not wanting 
in the Hawaiian Islands. One of them has 
been superstition, a blind terror begot- 
ten by persistent misinterpretation of the 
forces of nature, with its invariable accom- 
paniment of a belief in the power of evil 
spirits in earth and air and sky; and the 
other the cleverness of unscrupulous men 
who, as priests or religious teachers, per- 
petuated among the people a blind fear, 
which by the adroit manipulation of charms 
and amulets, and, above all, by the mysteri- 
ous influence of the taboo, they maintained 
and deepened. We are accustomed to as- 



148 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

sociate that word " taboo" with the idea of 
prohibition; but, as a matter of fact, it 
stood for a whole code of religious rites, 
ceremonies, and privileges, as well as re- 
strictions, which covered every man's life, 
reached out to and controlled the disposi- 
tion of his goods, appropriated to so-called 
religious uses, if it saw fit, the products of 
his fields and fishing-grounds, and, in its 
extreme form, when it became a part of the 
worship of the people, sent the king for 
days and nights to the temple in a continu- 
ous act of worship, while the altars reared 
under the trees reeked with the blood of 
human sacrifices. It was characteristic of 
a note of singular brutality in the religion 
of these island peoples that, in a silence 
which, if it could, muzzled the mouth of 
every man, woman, and child, beast and 
fowl, the priest killed a hog, and then put 
to death a man. The hog was then roasted 
and eaten, and the people returned thanks 
after the feast by putting to death another 
man! 

Such conceptions and usages prepare one 
to find among a people whose they are a 
morality of the very lowest type ; and of the 
unnamable vices of a race with singularly 
engaging traits of disposition I may not 
speak here. They are a tragic commentary 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 149 

upon the theory that heathen peoples, so far 
as their religion is concerned, may wisely 
be left to themselves, and that efforts to 
better them lead them only to exchange 
one set of vices for another; and are, inci- 
dentally, a no less interesting commentary 
upon the relative value of religious cere- 
monial, and of those great informing and 
inspiring principles which touch the 
springs of conduct rather than direct the 
rules and instruments of worship. A 
stranger who had landed in one of the Ha- 
waiian Islands when they were as yet un- 
trodden by the white man might easily have 
formed a conception of them as an ex- 
tremely devout people. They never built 
a canoe or used a new fishing-rod without 
offering a prayer and making a sacrifice 
to their patron god. Much more, if a house 
were to be built or a boat to be launched, 
was the priest invoked and the sacrifice 
offered. But in pathetic contrast with such 
usages was the fact that those two most 
august facts of life, as we view it, marriage 
and death, were unattended with any reli- 
gious ceremonial whatever. And in this 
striking departure from the custom of other 
pagan peoples we have a very impressive 
demonstration of the essential animalism of 
the people. 



150 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

In the most picturesque of the many 
interesting collections assembled in the 
Bishop Museum at Honolulu are specimens 
of the superb plumed spears and robes 
worn by the chieftains and sovereigns of 
the Hawaiian tribes. One of them is a mag- 
nificent canary-colored vestment made of 
feathers of inimitable richness and deli- 
cacy, and behind these are seen the vari- 
ous insignia which denoted the rank and 
achievements of these hereditary chief- 
tains, one of whom became in time their 
king. For here, as so often elsewhere, the 
political evolution seems to have been from 
an association of heads of tribes who be- 
came in time vassals to one who was 
stronger and cleverer than the rest. The 
Hawaiian chiefs found their master, after 
long periods of warfare with one another, 
in that powerful ruler of the island of Ha- 
waii who, having first conquered the whole 
of his own island, pushed his victories over 
the other islands, and demonstrated in 
many ways the qualities of a really great 
sovereign. His statue has wisely been 
placed in front of the Government Building 
in Honolulu, and no one who looks at it will 
refuse to own that its original was justly 
called * ' Kamehameha the Great. ' ' To this 
man, wise, strong, and courageous, his peo- 



IMPRESSIONS OP THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 151 

pie owe a lasting debt ; and under his hand 
there came to them, for the first time, the 
enjoyment of those individual rights which 
under a feudal government are unknown. 
How welcome they must have been, we can 
realize only when we contrast the original 
condition of such a primitive people with 
our own. The artist, the poet, the senti- 
mental traveler, are fond of reminding us 
how much of the world 's earlier beauty and 
simplicity civilization in its advance has 
spoiled. Yes, it may be so, from a super- 
ficial point of view; but how would our 
artistic or sentimental friends have enjoyed 
a condition of things in which, when their 
own feudal chief went abroad, they and 
their families were obliged to be prostrate 
on the ground face downward, and where 
it was death for a common man to remain 
standing at the mention of the king 's name, 
or when his sovereign's old coat was car- 
ried by? Civilization, when it enables a 
man to call not only his soul, but, when the 
tax-gatherer is done with it, his property 
his own, has ill-educated us to appreciate 
the condition of a people among whom two 
thirds of all that they produced was the 
property of the chiefs, big and little, who 
ruled over them. We may be reverting to 
such a type as this in our great cities, with 



152 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

their greater imposts, but happily we have 
not gotten there yet. 

This leads me naturally to the next and, 
to many minds, more interesting period in 
Hawaiian history when its peaceful seclu- 
sion was at length invaded by alien influ- 
ences which, in a comparatively short time, 
have largely changed its aspect and pros- 
pects. The first intrusion, as we have seen, 
was Spanish, but it was speedily followed 
by the visit of Captain Cook in 1778, and 
later by that of Vancouver. Cook ac- 
counted himself the discoverer of the Ha- 
waiian Islands, and as a compliment to an 
English peer who was at that time First 
Lord of the Admiralty, gave them the 
name by which school-boys have oftenest 
known them, the Sandwich Islands. 

The sentimental moralist who has 
reached this point in the history of newly 
discovered territory has, as I have inti- 
mated, a tempting opportunity for raising 
the question how far civilization has really 
elevated the character of the savage. In 
the case of the Hawaiian Islands there is 
a great deal that lends itself to such a dis- 
cussion in the painful history of civilized 
commercial invasion, and the most repul- 
sive features of this are to be found in con- 
nection with both the naval and commercial 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 153 

marine of the nations that, from their re- 
discovery by Cook, sought a foothold in 
these gems of the Pacific. I need not re- 
hearse that history here. It has, alas! its 
familiar counterpart all around the world; 
but it has also this honorable sequence, that 
there was speedily awakened in many 
American hearts the purpose to give to the 
Hawaiian Islands that strong foundation of 
Christian morality which can alone make 
either a community or a nation enduringly 
great. 

I may not trace here the history of Chris- 
tian missions in the Sandwich Islands, but 
I may at least say, as one wholly outside of 
the communions by which originally they 
were initiated and conducted, that no one 
can visit these islands without recognizing 
the noble work which Christian missiona- 
ries have done there. By a curious confu- 
sion, a habit of jesting allusion to the "sons 
of missionaries" in the Hawaiian Islands 
has, in many minds, been associated with 
the missionaries themselves, and perhaps 
it may be worth while for an outsider to 
say how much in his judgment it amounts 
to. I suppose that in Honolulu, as else- 
where, the sons of missionaries have turned 
to secular callings, and I presume they have 
conducted themselves with shrewdness and 



154 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 



success. It is difficult to see why they 
should not have done so ; and if a mission- 
ary 's residence in the Hawaiian Islands 
gave his son a business advantage there, it 
would seem natural enough that he should 
have embraced it. I have heard in other 
foreign fields bitter words about the mis- 
sionaries, and in one instance took the 
trouble to follow these complaints and 
sneers to their source. It was said that 
missionaries took advantage of opportuni- 
ties to push their way into business agen- 
cies, and so to crowd out men whose liveli- 
hood these agencies were. On inquiry I 
found that the whole basis for these whole- 
sale charges was that one missionary in a 
foreign land who had lost his voice there 
had turned to a secular task which was 
offered to him, and which it was found that 
he could do better than the man who stood 
next to him in competition for it ; and that 
was all there was to it. Under such circum- 
stances, the whole superstructure of mis- 
representation crumbled to the ill-smelling 
fragments of business jealousy. In the 
same way I found, on inquiry in Honolulu, 
that a good deal of the bitterness against 
missionaries had to do with their coura- 
geous witness against the glaring immorali- 
ties of their own race. They have been 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 155 

contemptuously described as, there and 
elsewhere, living in luxury and indolence, 
and their homes as illustrating what, to the 
natives among whom they labored, was a 
prodigal expenditure. Well, yes, when one 
is living among a community whose ward- 
robe consists of a bit of cotton cloth, and 
their daily menu a bowl of rice or taro, a 
rocking-chair and a pair of cotton sheets 
may seem bloated self-indulgence; but the 
question whether a civilized human being is 
called, in order to do missionary work, to 
accept barbarian standards of decency or 
modest comfort would still remain to be 
answered. 

A much more interesting and more im- 
portant question, whether in the Hawaiian 
Islands or anywhere else, is the question, 
What was the influence of these Christian 
missionaries and those who came after them 
upon the manners, habits, beliefs, and 
ideals of the people to whom they came? 
At the base of the state, it forever needs 
to be remembered there is the family; and 
the first thing that Christian households, 
largely drawn from New England ances- 
tries, spoke to was, so far as it existed at 
all, the Hawaiian conception of the family. 
We were shown in the streets of Honolulu 
a wooden house which had been made in 



156 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

New England and shipped piecemeal to its 
destination. It was as delightful a bit of 
incongruity as could be imagined, with its 
two stories, white clapboards, green blinds, 
narrow windows, low ceilings, and the rest. 
One perspired at the thought of the suffer- 
ings of those who had summered in that 
hot second story, and wondered at the per- 
sistence of provincial type that could have 
done so stupid a thing. But also one could 
not but straightway remember how much 
else that was fine and high had persisted 
along with it, how much patient courage 
and steadfast self-sacrifice had gone to the 
acquirement of the heathen speech, had 
wrought with the pagan mothers and chil- 
dren, and day by day had held up before 
that wild and lawless savagery the pure 
and strenuous examples of gentleness and 
godliness and unswerving devotion to duty. 
That that large expenditure of labor and 
money has produced in the Hawaiian Isl- 
ands enduring results, no one who knows 
them will pretend to question. 

But along with them there were coming 
to pass political changes of equal and last- 
ing import. I have spoken of Kamehameha 
I, whose statue stands in front of the Gov- 
ernment Building in Honolulu, and whose 
noble presence proclaims him every inch a 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 157 

king. It is not easy to imagine what would 
have been the fate of civilization in the Ha- 
waiian Islands if this sovereign and his 
vassals had antagonized it. But the king, 
if not the feudal chiefs, had the rare dis- 
cernment to see how much of order, secu- 
rity, and prosperity the white man could 
give to his people, and to welcome changes 
from an arbitrary paternalism, which ri- 
pened under his successors into something 
like a constitutional form of government 
with definite land tenures, the dethrone- 
ment of the heathen priests, and, under 
Kamehameha III, in 1833, the proclamation 
of a bill of rights, and the creation, a few 
years later, of an executive ministry, a ju- 
diciary department, and the promulgation 
of a constitution. In other words, a race of 
savages gradually organized itself into a 
state ; and, in the whole process of organi- 
zation, it is but just to say that our own in- 
stitutions and our own progress and devel- 
opment under them exercised a paramount 
influence. 

But, alas! you cannot make a state by a 
constitution, and our own times have had no 
more dramatic illustration of this than the 
Hawaiian Islands. That able ruler, Kame- 
hameha I, who had the wisdom to discern 
that the foreign peoples who had found 



158 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

their way to his shores were the product of 
institutions which he and his might wisely 
borrow, was followed by successors, male 
and female, who had neither his prudence, 
his principles, nor his genius for statesman- 
ship. There were five Hawaiian rulers in 
the Kamehameha succession, but when, in 
1874, Kamehameha V, the last of that dy- 
nasty, died, the situation became gravely 
complicated. There was, as I have indi- 
cated, a legislative body, and this, after 
much delay, proceeded to the election of 
David Kalakaua, who received the suf- 
frages of a considerable number of his own 
countrymen, but especially of the Ameri- 
can residents. Opposed to him, however, 
was Queen Emma, of late years so familiar 
a figure in Hawaiian history, the widow of 
Kamehameha IV. Queen Emma was the 
representative of the anti- American senti- 
ment in the island, and besides the consid- 
erable British sympathy which ranged 
itself on her side, she had a large following 
of various nationalities and of not very 
fragrant record. In a word, the lines were 
drawn and the battle set in array for that 
long struggle, the latest issue of which re- 
sulted so recently in the annexation to our 
own Republic of what was not long before 
the kingdom of Hawaii. 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 169 

I may not trace the history of that strug- 
gle here, but I may perhaps be permitted to 
state the conclusions which I think almost 
any dispassionate student of history must 
inevitably reach in regard to it. 

In the first place, it is important that the 
materials out of which this new state had 
inevitably to be made must be clearly recog- 
nized. There were, to begin with, the na- 
tive populations. Their characteristics 
have already been in some measure indi- 
cated, and these, it is to be remembered, 
have not at any time revealed any consid- 
erable substantiveness of character. The 
native Hawaiian was kindly, but cruel; 
graceful, but essentially savage ; and super- 
stitious to an almost incredible degree. It 
has been charged that when the people re- 
ceived Christianity they gave a cordial 
welcome to both its teachers and its teach- 
ings; but I apprehend that there can be 
little doubt that both pagan beliefs and 
superstitious practices still survive in what 
are reckoned as Christian households. An 
intelligent observer to whom I am much 
indebted, Captain Lucien Young, U. S. N., 1 
says: "The idols have been destroyed or 
hid away, but in secret haunts, concealed 
from the public gaze, the natives practise 

The Real Hawaii,'' p. 73, passim. 



160 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

their incantations and believe in the mys- 
teries of their time-honored religion." 
When it is remembered that many of these 
are most intimately associated with their 
usages as to alleviating pain or healing or 
warding off disease, it can readily be seen 
how difficult it has been to uproot them. 
The physician attached to a Christian mis- 
sion or civilized community in those islands, 
when called to the bedside of a native pa- 
tient, has had to battle not only with the 
disease, but with the persistent faith, if not 
of the patient, then of his whole household 
and all his neighbors, in a science of medi- 
cine which consisted in propitiating some 
offended deity by the sacrifice of a pig, and 
sometimes (as late as 1820) by the sacrifice 
of a child. Nor does this seem surprising 
when one comes to understand the charac- 
ters of the gods, who, as conceived by their 
worshipers, were certainly embodiments of 
cruelty and bestiality. No description of 
the rites of worship which the first visitors 
to these islands found there could be ad- 
mitted to the pages of a decent publication ; 
yet long after the earlier rule of savage 
chieftains had been superseded by consti- 
tutional forms of government, some of these 
survived in the royal household; and a 
queen who professed to have unreservedly 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 161 

accepted the Christian religion kept about 
her the kahunas, or priests and heathen 
doctors, as her closest friends and advisers. 
With this background of unredeemed 
heathenism to build upon, it was not more 
natural that it should reappear under new 
forms of civic order than that these, in turn, 
should be made the opportunity for every 
unscrupulous adventurer who had the auda- 
city to ingratiate himself with this simple 
people or to lend his cleverness to the tur- 
bulent or revolutionary tendencies which 
from time to time appeared among them. 
The American residents and others who, in 
1875, elected Kalakaua as king, chose, I 
suppose, the best available man ; but he was 
not even a pure Hawaiian, being reputed to 
be the illegitimate son of a negro cobbler 
who came to the Sandwich Islands, no one 
seems to know on what errand, from our 
own Boston! This certainly was pretty 
poor stuff out of which to have made a king, 
and it throws an interesting light, inciden- 
tally, upon the sometime struggles of our 
Anglican brethren to maintain in the isl- 
ands an " ancient dynasty"! But I refer 
to it now because it helps to explain what, 
in the subsequent history of the govern- 
ment, came to be such a curious and con- 
stantly recurring characteristic of the suc- 
11 



162 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

cessive cabinets, administrations, and the 
like. Kalakaua's chief counselor and 
mentor was an ex-Mormon missionary of 
such unsavory character that his own com- 
munity had expelled him one who, after 
having swindled his Mormon associates 
and apostatized from them, fled to Honolulu 
and devoted himself to inflaming the na- 
tives against the whites. This man stands 
foremost in a long series of disreputable 
men, Americans, Englishmen, and of what- 
ever other vagrant race that drifted into 
the islands, who in any political crisis came 
to the surface, always as fomenters of dis- 
cord, friends of unbridled license, and 
leaders of every vicious element in the 
community. In reaching a conclusion as to 
what was our duty as a nation to these peo- 
ple, it is impossible to leave out of sight 
such obvious considerations as those facts 
which I have rehearsed suggest. I am not 
a disciple of a policy of imperialism, but I 
confess, in view of the situation as it existed 
in the Hawaiian Islands when they voted 
to seek annexation to the United States, I 
am unable to see what else we could have 
done than to grant their request. 

For their position in the Pacific indicated 
that if they are not strong enough to rule 
themselves, they belong rightfully under 



that protection which we, of all other peo- 
ples, can best give them. Whatever earlier 
civilization, Spanish, English, or French, 
found them, seized them, or sought to en- 
rich itself from them, we alone earliest 
recognized a duty to them, and sought, by 
bringing to bear upon them the highest and 
most transforming influences, to discharge 
it. We alone strove to build up among them 
a civilization which had for its foundation 
some other motive than the passion of con- 
quest or the love of gain. We alone gave 
them schools and teachers, and the good 
physician with the Christian home. We 
alone enriched them with those who, what- 
ever may be said of their descendants, lived 
pure and noble lives, and did among them 
good and lasting work. After these, it is 
true, have come the trader, the land-specu- 
lator, the sugar-planter, and the rest; and 
possibly it may be as well that the authority 
of the United States should stay in the Ha- 
waiian Islands to regulate them, as well as 
to protect its own international rights. 

International rights, I say, for as to the 
growing importance of these there can be 
no smallest doubt. One need not be dazzled 
or blinded by the glamour of imperial ex- 
pansion in order to recognize that no re- 
public such as ours can draw a line round 



164 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOEROW 

its domestic territory and ignore its duties 
and its opportunities with reference to the 
rest of the world. We must trade with 
other countries than our own; and if we 
have anything good that they have not, we 
must needs wish, and, even though there 
should be pecuniary profit in it, may rightly 
wish, to impart it to them. But we cannot 
do this unless we can get at them, and we 
cannot get at them without the physical re- 
sources and conveniences which shall ena- 
ble us to do so. Now, the Hawaiian Isl- 
ands stand preeminently for one of these 
conveniences. No traffic with the great 
East can be maintained, except at almost 
ruinous cost, without some foothold between 
its coasts and ours for a Pacific coaling- 
station, and no greater opportunity for the 
enlargement of certain departments of agri- 
culture and trade than the Hawaiian Isl- 
ands afford could easily be discovered. 
If we do our duty toward them, we shall 
find our interest in doing it, and to that duty 
and to those toward whom we are to dis- 
charge it there is no great world-power that 
is so near as we. Geographical, commer- 
cial, and moral considerations here seem all 
to point one way. 

But, alas ! it would seem as if the people 
toward whom we are to discharge such duty 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 165 

would soon cease to be. There is one mys- 
terious effect of civilization upon weaker 
races concerning which the historian and 
the psychologist have yet to give us more 
light. The United States, since its people 
first went to the Sandwich Islands, has car- 
ried on no exterminating war. With shame 
and confusion it must be owned that it has 
taught them many vices, or rather perhaps 
it would be more true to say it has cor- 
rupted them with the taint of forms of those 
vices which were distinctly its own. But, 
on the other hand, it has given them the 
arts, and learning, and civic order, and the 
examples of industry and thrift. But it 
cannot be said that they have prized the 
learning highly or widely profited by it. 
For no reason which can be directly trace- 
able to us, it must be owned that they are a 
decaying race, and their more recent statis- 
tics reveal this with dramatic significance. 
According to Captain Young, 1 whom I have 
already quoted, the eight islands composing 
the Hawaiian group have a total population 
of 107,000, of which, however, only 35,000 
are Hawaiians. There are 10,000 people 
of mixed descent, in part Hawaiian; the 
rest are Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, 
and other Europeans, of which last, with 

i " The New Hawaii," p. 327. 



166 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

Americans, there are 14,000. In other 
words, nearly two thirds of the people of 
these islands are other than Hawaiian. 
That this proportion is likely to be in- 
creased along the same line seems probable, 
and the time seems likely to come when the 
native Hawaiian, like the native North 
American Indian, will have disappeared. 
Who they are who will ultimately be 
dominant in his place it is not easy to fore- 
cast. At any moment the United States 
may close its Hawaiian doors to those races 
which, of the Eastern world, are nearest to 
the islands, and which are now represented 
there by a large proportion of the popula- 
tion some twenty-four thousand Japanese 
and fifteen thousand Chinese, who to-day, 
in fact, taken together, make an element 
larger than that represented by the Ha- 
waiians themselves or any other peoples. 
Both these races have brought to the Ha- 
waiian Islands forces and qualities which, 
originally, were foreign to the native peo- 
ple. As the eye ranges the distant hill- 
sides which flank the rear of Honolulu, it 
is arrested by the shining patches of 
ordered verdure which, terrace upon ter- 
race, climb up along their slopes; and the 
inquirer is told, in every instance, that these 



IMPRESSIONS OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 167 

are the farms and market-gardens of the 
Japanese, who have in so many like places 
taught the soil to yield its increase where 
it never did before. Such qualities, in any 
people, are sources of power and wealth; 
and when it is remembered that behind the 
Japanese have come the Chinese, whose 
thrift in the Eastern world is a proverb 
like that of the French or Germans in the 
Western, it is plain that their influence 
upon the future of the Hawaiian Islands 
must be deep and lasting. Already, in the 
case of the Chinese, has their capacity for 
agricultural work revealed itself in the vast 
sugar-plantations which American and 
other capital has acquired and is adminis- 
tering with characteristic skill and profit; 
and already there are tokens of the wealth 
which, aided by this foreign labor, these 
can extract from a rich soil and from singu- 
larly favorable climatic conditions. 

So the problem is set: the mixture of 
races, energies, industries, and of the 
higher moral qualities which these various 
strains, ancestries, and activities stand for. 
There are other theaters in which the same 
drama is being played out under much 
broader and, it may be, more complex con- 
ditions, but not in which a more interesting 



168 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

or indeed dramatic experiment is being 
made. It will be for the government and 
the people of the American Republic to 
demonstrate that they are equal to a task in 
itself so delicate, and in its consequences 
so grave and important. 



VI 

INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS 
RELIGIONS 



VI 

INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS 
EELIGIONS 

ONE advantage in being a citizen of the 
United States, which has not perhaps 
occurred to all of us, is that the American 
traveler is likely to see the great East in its 
most impressive perspective. Unlike Euro- 
pean travelers, he does not ordinarily ap- 
proach it through the Suez Canal, but 
across the Pacific. And the happy result 
which this will secure to him will be this: 
that he sees, first Japan, then China, and 
last India. An artist would tell him that 
he has thus secured the crescendo of color- 
Japan, with its charm of prettiness and de- 
tail ; China, more massive but more somber ; 
and then India, with its wealth of color and 
outline, which culminate at last in Ceylon. 
A very considerable part of this impres- 
sion will be derived from Indian architec- 
ture; and in all respects the most splendid 
effects in architecture are those achieved in 

171 



172 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

the temples, with their mass of decoration, 
and their infinite richness of detail and 
color wrought out in gold and lacquer 
enamel. 

Inevitably, the mind reaches back of the 
structures and fabrics, the temples and the 
palaces, to the people. What are they like ; 
what do they believe ; what of their future ? 
What does religion, with them, stand for, 
and how far do we of the West understand 
them or their beliefs, and do justice to 
either? These are questions which, espe- 
cially as they relate to Christian missions, 
must needs interest us. Indeed, what more 
fascinating vista could there be than that 
which opens before him who, to-day, turns 
his feet, on whatever errand, to those lands 
and races which, of late, in such wonderful 
ways, are having all their doors flung open 
to the world! Whatever else was true of 
the men who, as missionaries, first set on 
foot that mighty invasion of the heathen 
world which from such small beginnings 
has grown to such noble and stately propor- 
tions, this certainly was not true, that they 
had then advanced to such a recognition of 
the presence of God even in heathendom as 
led them, first of all, to seek for sympathetic 
contact with it. We cannot read the story 
of what they said and of how they wrought 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 173 

without recognizing, in all early missionary 
enterprises, in modern times, a very im- 
perfect apprehension of the fact that God 
has not left himself anywhere without wit- 
ness among men, and that their little sys- 
tems who dwell or have dwelt in pagan 
lands, whether of philosophy or religion, 
while but broken lights that were destined 
to have only their brief day-in that most 
like so many of our own! were, after all, 
yet broken lights of God; dim glimmers of 
the fuller splendors of a coming day. It 
is in this, on the other hand, that I think 
our noblest progress has been made. The 
comparative study of religions has brought 
to light, for every student who has pursued 
it with thoroughness and candor, at least 
two clear convictions one that God has 
had, in all human history, many ways of re- 
vealing himself; and the other that there 
is, after all, no wholly right method of mis- 
sionary endeavor other than that which St. 
Paul pursued on Mars Hill when, as he 
passed by, he saw an altar to the unknown 
God. Not ridicule, nor denunciation, nor 
contempt, was his method; but recognition 
recognition of the deep want of man and 
of the often honest though often blunder- 
ing methods of men who sought to find an 
answer to it! 



174 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

Need I tell those to whom I am writ- 
ing that this must needs become the method, 
not only in the domain of religion, but in 
all other undertakings in connection with 
which we of Anglo-Saxon lineage are turn- 
ing our faces toward those new lands and 
peoples that beckon us to-day? It must 
begin in the domain of religion, because re- 
ligion lies at the foundation of all national 
life and personal conduct, and it must begin 
there by being just and speaking the truth. 

I can best make my meaning clear, at this 
point, by an illustration; and in choosing 
it I think you will agree with me that I am 
selecting an institution which lies at the 
basis not only of religion but of all social 
order. It was my privilege, little more than 
a year ago, to spend some months in India, 
and, while there, it was almost instinctive 
to seek such light as was available upon the 
family life of a people that, whatever we 
may say of their defects, have disclosed in 
a long and memorable history some of the 
most noteworthy traits that mark a great 
race and a really high civilization. For, 
the family life is, after all, the key to all the 
rest. In studying the history of another 
Eastern people, not so numerous as that of 
India, but marked from their earliest ex- 
istence with strong and fine traits I mean 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 175 

the Hebrew-it is impossible not to recog- 
nize how powerfully and how enduringly 
the principles which determined the organi- 
zation of the family and the laws that gov- 
erned it have influenced and determined 
the whole progress of its growth and 
achievement. It was the glory of our Puri- 
tan ancestry that, in an age that had largely 
lost them, it set about restoring some of 
those more dominant notes of the Hebraic 
household which made the families of Israel 
such mighty forces in the world; and no 
man who cares to understand those forces 
that lie among the foundations will be in- 
different to those facts which reveal the 
law of the home and, e.g., the place of wo- 
man in it anywhere. 

Well, what have we usually been told on 
these points as to the situation among these 
various peoples who may be largely de- 
scribed as inhabiting the peninsula of 
India? It must be owned, I think, that 
whatever the sources of our information, 
the popular impressions of Western peoples 
have ordinarily been that, so far as the do- 
mestic life of India is concerned, it has been 
one of uniform cruelty, lust, and degrada- 
tion. The custom of child marriage; the 
hideous usage of burning widows, known 
as "suttee"; the studied maintenance of 



176 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOREOW 

conditions in which women lived in rigid 
seclusion, in profound ignorance, and 
under a masculine rule at once without 
shame and without pity; these are tradi- 
tions in which I presume you were brought 
up, as I was. It is enough to say of them, 
one and all, that our popular impressions 
of them are an often grotesque distortion 
or exaggeration of the facts. I was so for- 
tunate, more than once, as to make the 
acquaintance of native East Indians of dis- 
tinguished rank and varied culture. More 
than once they introduced me to their fami- 
lies and presented me to their wives and 
daughters. In all such cases they were, I 
beg to say, persons who retained their an- 
cient religion, Buddhist, Mohammedan, or 
Parsee, as the case might be, and who had 
no keener enthusiasm than that which cher- 
ished their national, racial, and religious 
traditions. They answered questions about 
their homes and children, and the laws that 
governed them, and they gave me chapter 
and verse in their sacred writings for what 
they told me in regard to them. Now, then, 
let us look at some of these testimonies as 
indicating not what may have been, and 
doubtless was, a degraded practice, here 
and there for if we were judged by these 
our own record in the courts of the civilized 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 177 

world would not be an unsullied one-but 
the law or rule of life set for many millions 
of people in its authoritative documents. 
The extracts which I shall quote are taken 
from the laws of Manu Manu being the 
semi-divine lawgiver of the East, whose 
works, constituting the Veda in its broader 
sense, fall into three general divisions of 
Sacred Ceremonial and Domestic. From 
these last I take those laws which define 
the place of woman in the economy of East 
Indian life: 



MANU. 

"Where women are honored, there the Devas 
(gods) are pleased; where they are dishonored, 
no sacred rite yields rewards. Ill, 56. 

Where female relations live in grief, the 
family soon wholly perishes; but that family 
where they are not unhappy ever prospers. 
Ill, 57. 

In like manner, care must be taken of barren 
women, of those who have no sons, of those whose 
family is extinct, of wives and widows faithful 
to their lords, and of women afflicted with dis- 
eases. VIII, 29. 

In order to protect women and Brahmins, he 
who kills in the cause of right, commits no sin. 
VIII, 349. 

One's daughter is the highest object of ten- 
12 



178 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MOEEOW 

derness; hence if one is offended by her, he 
must bear it without resentment. IV, 185. 

A maternal aunt, the wife of a maternal uncle, 
a mother-in-law, and a paternal aunt, must be 
honored like the wife of one's spiritual teacher; 
they are equal to the wife of one's spiritual 
teacher. II, 131. 

(In India the wife of a spiritual teacher is 
regarded as a living goddess.) 

Toward the sister of one's father and of one's 
mother and toward one's elder sister, one must 
behave as toward one's mother; but the mother 
is more venerable than they. II, 133. 

But the teacher is ten times more venerable 
than the sub-teacher, the father a hundred times 
more than the teacher, but the mother a thousand 
times more than the father. II, 145. 

I apprehend that if that last rule or precept 
of Mann's were propounded in some Amer- 
ican homes we should find it rather strong 
meat for some "heads of families"! 

But it is said that there are customs and 
usages in India, such as child-marriage, 
which are monstrous and altogether inde- 
fensible. Most surely they are, if they ex- 
ist as they are popularly represented to 
exist. But suppose that we obey the excel- 
lent maxim which enjoins, "audi alteram 
partem," and hear what a witness of their 
own has declared, placing himself on record 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 179 

the other day in Carnegie Hall in New 
York in these words : l 

It is said that the greatest curse is the child- 
marriage in India, and that it is sanctioned by 
religion ; but this is not true. Religion distinctly 
forbids it, and in many parts of India so-called 
child-marriage is nothing but a betrothal. The 
betrothal ceremony takes place some years before 
the real marriage ceremony ; sufficient cause may 
prolong the period of betrothal for even three 
or four years. In Northern India the real mar- 
riage does not take place until the parties are 
of proper age; it is attended with music, feast- 
ing, and the presentation of gifts. A betrothed 
wife stays in her father's house until the time of 
her real marriage. In Southern India, customs 
are not the same; many abuses have crept in, 
and child-wives are often given to their hus- 
bands at too tender an age. The Hindoo law 
does not prevent the remarriage of the betrothed 
wife after the death of her betrothed husband ; 
but it says that under such circumstances the 
parents of the betrothed wife commit a sin, as 
of giving false witness before the court of 
justice. 

In this connection, the following remarks 
are abridged from " The Women of India," 
published by the Madras Christian Litera- 
ture Society: 

i " Woman's Place in Hindoo Religion," a lecture 
by Swami Abhedananda. 



180 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

It is not surprising that people should cling 
with tenacity to customs supposed to be sanc- 
tioned by ancient religious authority, and it has 
been said that in India every custom, whether 
unintelligible, or positively indefensible, be- 
comes a religious question. Dewan Bahadur R. 
Ragunath Row has probably said all that can be 
said on this subject, in the two editions of his 
pamphlet, "The Hindoo Law of Marriage," pub- 
lished first in 1882, and in his reply to a review 
of that pamphlet by two learned Madhva pun- 
dits, as well as in more recent papers; and his 
countrymen must read and judge for themselves. 

Happy will it be for Hindoos if they can 
conclusively prove that their religious books do 
not require them to break the laws of health and 
reason and morality. If they do require it, so 
much the worse for the laws, and all one can say 
is that such laws cannot be inspired ; at any rate, 
they can have no binding inspiration and au- 
thority for those who now admit these evils. 
A book of laws, however sacred it may be held, 
ceases to be of abiding authority if those laws 
are out of harmony with intellectual, social, and 
moral progress. Is it not irrational to suppose 
that the Laws of Manu a code compiled, accord- 
ing to the latest computation, 1400 years ago 
with its minute and childish formalities, its fan- 
ciful, unequal, and retaliatory penalties, such as 
mark the 'earliest forms of criminal legislation, 
its uniform leniency shown to a certain class 
of the community, and its entire subordination of 
women, should be fitted to regulate society in 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 181 

the nineteenth century? Though there is much 
that is majestic, benevolent, and beautiful about 
the code, are there many among those who have 
become accustomed to more humane and juster 
laws who would like to live under it in the pres- 
ent day ? 

The conservative Hindoo, however, clings to 
antiquity, and, in the matter of child-marriage, 
those who protest against it have antiquity on 
their side. Kama married Sita; Krishna mar- 
ried Rukmini ; Arjuna married Draupadi ; Nala 
married Damayanti, not as children, but as 
grown up women. And as for the Hindoo re- 
ligious books themselves, a careful study of them 
seems to show that infant marriages "form no 
part of a religious institution in India." The 
very mantras that the Smritis prescribe to be 
chanted during the marriage ceremonies clearly 
indicate that the bride should be a woman, and 
not an infant. 

The second religious basis of child-marriage 
is the doctrine of the Shraddha, or the ceremo- 
nies that follow the funeral rites. Orthodox 
Hindoos believe that if they do not leave sons 
behind them, who will offer food for their souls 
after death, they cannot reach heaven; if they 
can secure this, they may rest satisfied. But in- 
telligent men do not believe that balls of rice 
and flour can have any effect on departed spirits ; 
that any ceremonies or sacred places can acceler- 
ate the progress of disembodied relatives to hea- 
ven. 

According to the Hindoo law, it is better for 



182 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

a girl of a high caste to remain unmarried for 
life than to marry one who is not of noble birth, 
or from a family of the same caste, or one who is 
unqualified or illiterate. 

Well, I am not clear that while there is 
no law among us of the nature of this last 
precept, we have not a similar tradition 
which, to many minds, has quite the force 
of law! 

But again; at this point I hear some one 
ask : ' ' This is all very well ; but what have 
you to say about the hideous practice of 
1 suttee,' or the self-burning of widows?" 
Believe me, it is not of the smallest conse- 
quence what I have to say on such a subject, 
but rather what they who are accused of 
such a custom have to say. And here, 
again, I summon the accomplished gentle- 
man and scholar who has already testified, 
Swami Abhedananda. In the address from 
which I have just quoted, and which I have 
yet to hear challenged, he says : 

Self-burning of widows was not sanctioned by 
the Hindoo religion, but was due to other causes, 
the fact being that when the Mohammedans con- 
quered India they treated the widows of the 
soldiers so brutally that the women preferred 
death, and voluntarily sought it. It is often 
said that the "Christian government" has sup- 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 183 

pressed "suttee"; but the truth is that the in- 
itiative in this direction was taken by that noble 
Hindoo, Rammohun Roy, who was, however, 
obliged to secure the aid of the British Govern- 
ment in enforcing his ideas, because India was 
a subject nation. The educated classes among 
the Hindoos had strongly protested against the 
priests who supported this custom (which pre- 
vailed only in certain parts of India), and ef- 
forts had been made to suppress the evil by 
force; but as it could not be done without offi- 
cial help, appeal was made to the Viceroy, 
Lord Bentinck, and a law against "suttee" was 
passed. Thus the evil was practically sup- 
pressed by the Hindoos themselves, aided by the 
British Government. 

And if I am met at this point by the ob- 
jection that this is the mere assertion of a 
partizan Oriental, whose statements must 
needs be taken with large allowance, let me 
quote one of the most eminent English au- 
thorities in the same connection, Sir M. 
Monier Williams. Says this learned Ori- 
entalist and devout Christian scholar: "It 
was principally his (Raja Rammohun 
Roy's) vehement denunciation of this prac- 
tice, and the agitation against it set on foot 
by him, which ultimately led to the abolition 
of 'sati' throughout British India in 
1829. J>1 

1 " Brahmanism and Hindooism," p. 482. 



184 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

I need not pursue these illustrations fur- 
ther. It is enough to say that every one 
who cares to do so in a painstaking and can- 
did spirit will be continually surprised to 
find how wide-spread in Christian lands, and 
in minds that we are wont to call intelligent 
and sufficiently educated, has been the mis- 
apprehension which has prevailed as to 
customs and beliefs among peoples of alien 
race and faith. 

Do we ask, now, how this misapprehen- 
sion has come about? I answer that it has 
had a threefold cause: in ignorance; in a 
not altogether unamiable passion for exag- 
geration; and most of all, I am persuaded, 
in a constitutional incapacity on the part of 
the Western to understand the processes of 
the Eastern mind. 

Ignorance, pure and simple, has been a 
potent factor in our misapprehensions 
about Oriental foreigners. Those who have 
lived longest among them will tell you of 
that secretive, if not furtive, habit of mind 
and of speech which so widely prevails in 
the East ; by which we, with our all but hope- 
less Western literalism, are so easily mis- 
led, and which offers, I may add, so strong 
a temptation to one with an often merely 
playful impulse to amuse himself at the 
expense of another's credulity. There is a 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 185 

legend lingering still, I think, at the capital 
of the Republic, that a British traveler, on 
asking a native whose was the ghastly statue 
of Washington which will be remembered as 
sitting very inadequately clad in the neigh- 
borhood of the Patent Office, was told that it 
was a statue of ' ' Sitting Bull, ' ' and that the 
stranger promptly entered the fact in his 
note-book. It would be interesting to know 
how much of our knowledge, e.g., of China, 
for the last two hundred years, was derived 
in the same way, and of the same accuracy. 
The Abbe Hue's "Travels" have been con- 
sidered a mine of authentic information; 
and yet, nothing is more evident to one who 
reads them than the extreme difficulty 
which this accomplished scholar found, 
anywhere, in obtaining trustworthy infor- 
mation. Suspicion and distrust of the for- 
eigner are instincts to which even we our- 
selves are liable; but we cannot possibly 
measure their force in minds whose every 
tradition has trained them to abhor all 
foreigners, and who have seen in the curi- 
osity of the alien only a menace or a sneer. 
And then, next to ignorance in the West- 
ern observer of Eastern peoples, has been 
the inevitable tendency to exaggeration. 
The huge inductions from small groups of 
facts; the hasty generalizations upon the 



186 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

basis of a chance incident; the desire for 
dramatic effect in literature or in mission- 
ary addresses; the cheerful willingness to 
believe the worst and not the best of one 
whom we call indeed our brother or our 
sister, but whom by no possibility we could 
be induced to treat as such ; the knowledge 
that if one comes back from a foreign land 
without a traveler's tale, painted in strong 
colors and of tragic proportions, he is not 
quite fulfilling the expectations of the home 
public; all this, together with the further 
fact that books and discourses about for- 
eigners are not criticized, as they should 
be, by foreigners, has made it easy for the 
modern peripatetic philosopher to create a 
monster in literary portraiture, and then 
persuade us to accept it as a photograph! 
And then, finally, there has been a great 
deal that has been brought to the West from 
the East which is the product of that abso- 
lute incapacity, on the part of the Western, 
to understand Eastern mental processes. 
The East thinks pictorially; the West liter- 
ally and logically. The East abhors a strict 
construction of language; the West lusts 
after it with a strange and stupid opacity 
as to all the traditions of the language 
which it interprets. The East continually 
employs indirections, without a thought of 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 187 

deliberate untruthfulness. The West for- 
ever construes them as if they could have 
no other motive than to deceive. Under 
such circumstances the wonder is, not that 
the West and the East have so often misun- 
derstood each other, but rather that they 
have understood each other at all. "How 
far is it to the next town?" you ask the inn- 
keeper, from whom you have hired your 
conveyance in China; and he tells you that 
it is fifteen miles. You hire your carriage 
at so much a mile, and then, when, having 
made your visit to the neighboring town, 
you return to your starting-point, you find 
that the innkeeper has charged for a jour- 
ney of fifteen miles going, and twenty-five 
miles returning ! And then you call him a 
liar, a thief, and a swindler, until he calls 
your attention to the fact that your journey 
going was down Mil all the way, and took 
two hours, and, returning, up hill all the 
way, and took four, and that he is justly 
entitled to be paid for the time of horses 
and servants and the extra wear and tear to 
both of a heavy grade all the way home. In 
a word, all the equity is on his side, and 
you have simply misunderstood him ! It is 
a homely parable, but it is pertinent, in our 
dealings with Oriental peoples from the be- 
ginning to the end. 



188 THE EAST OF TO-DAY AND TO-MORROW 

And yet, when it has all been said, the 
glorious fact still remains that our Western 
civilization, literature, and most of all re- 
ligion, have something to give to the peo- 
ples that have them not, of incomparable 
value and potency. One cannot but feel 
sometimes as if what Dr. Horace Bushnell 
called the "out-populating power" of the 
Christian stock were one of its divinest 
notes. Said a distinguished Chinese pro- 
fessor in the Imperial University of Pekin 
to an eminent American missionary: 1 
"Why should we not send missionaries to 
your country?" The missionary replied: 
"By all means; send them, and make the 
experiment." "But would your people 
receive them?" he asked. "Certainly," 
was the answer; "and their message would 
be heard and weighed." Do you suppose 
this accomplished Chinese scholar set about 
such a work? No. He was proud of his 
race and his religion ; but he did not believe 
in the latter ardently enough to make the 
smallest effort to propagate it. He was a 
Confucianist, and believed in some over- 
ruling power which he called "Strength" 
or "Tien"; and he had some notion of a 
life to come, as evidenced by his worship 

a Dr. W. A. P. Martin, President of the Imperial Tuner- 
wen College, Pekin. See "The World's Parliament of 
Religions," Vol. II, p 1139. 



INDIA: ITS PEOPLE AND ITS RELIGIONS 189 

of his ancestors : but between him and that 
passion for souls, on fire with love for whom 
a Divine Redeemer died, such as sent Mills 
and his heroic companions forth to die for 
God, there was a great gulf, to pagan mind 
and heart immeasurable and impossible. 

And so, we of this twentieth century and 
this Christian Republic see our calling. In 
all those new and largely untrodden realms 
whose portals are opening to us to-day, 
there is much to deplore, but much, let us 
not forget it, to respect. Some of us here 
can recall the smile of mingled mirth and 
derision with which, a few years ago, it was 
announced that the Mohammedans were 
preparing to send missionaries and estab- 
lish a Mohammedan mission in the city of 
New York. We were so superior in our 
Occidental virtue that the whole thing 
seemed a huge joke. And yet, thus far, 
Christianity has utterly failed to control 
the vice of drunkenness. The great cities 
of this land are dominated, not by their 
churches or their universities, but by their 
saloons; and Christian lands, wherever 
they are to be found, are dotted, 1 as a Chris- 
tian scholar has said, "with poorhouses, 
asylums, jails, penitentiaries, reformato- 
ries, built to deal with evils, nine-tenths of 

i Dr E R. Sunderland, " The World's Parliament 
of Religions," Vol. I, p. 630. 



190 THE EAST OP TO-DAY AND TO-MOKROW 

which are said to be caused directly or in- 
directly by the drink habit, which Christen- 
dom fails to control and is powerless to up- 
root." But Mohammedanism in Oriental 
lands does control it. Said Isaac Taylor, 
after declaring that "Mohammedanism 
stands in fierce opposition to gambling and 
makes a gambler's testimony invalid in 
law," "Islam is the most powerful total 
abstinence association in the world." 

And so, I repeat, we may see our calling. 
Goethe declared long ago that he who knows 
but one language knows none I commend 
the maxim to those zealous gentlemen who 
are kicking the classics out of our colleges 
and substituting for them courses of botany 
and civil engineering and Max Miiller ap- 
plied the same maxim to religion. Heirs of 
a great faith, it belongs to us to learn from it 
so much at least of the law of the brother- 
hood of humanity as shall enable us to treat 
other faiths, other philosophies, other man- 
ners than our own with courteous consid- 
eration; and then, charged with great 
treasures, beckoned forward by great ex- 
amples, humbled and instructed by past 
blunders and failures, to turn to the new 
and larger tasks that are before us with a 
high hope and a great patience 1 



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