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EGYPT
MONEY TABLE.
(Comp. pp. XV, xvi and Tables at end of the book.)
Approximate Equivalents.
Arabic Kame
Egyptian
Money
British
French
Money
Money
S)
1 S
! n
<v
H
H
a
a
CO
cu
IK
o
20
6Vi
25
90
lU
3
12
95
4
iVi
5
18
2
V*
2
59
1
H*
1
;-)()
h
52
—
21/2
—
26
-
2V2
-
26
_
V/'
—
13
—
—
5
—
v.
—
21/2
American
Money
Gold Coins.
Oineih Masri (Egypt, pound, £ K)
Nuiseh oineih (half £ El ... .
Silver Coins.
Riydl Masri
Nusseh Ftiydl
Rub' Riydl
Kirshein (clnuble piastre) . . . .
Kirsh T
Kickel Coins.
Kirsh (great piastre ; Kirsh xAgh) v
X^usseh Kirsh (.small or half
piastre; Kirsh ta'rtfa)\ . . .
2 ifilliimes
1 MiUi^me (milyeim)
100:
50:
:iOOO
: 500
: 200
: 100
: 50
: 20
: 10
10 —
50
+ The great piastre (rarely met in silver) is generally indicated by P. T.
('piastre tarif), sometimes also by P. E. ('piastre ^gyptienne'). The two
piastres are frequently confounded by Europeans in retail transactions;
attention therefore should be paid to the Arabic names, 'kirsh sagh' and
'kirsh ta'rifa'. The contraction 'pias.' is used uniformly throughout the
Handbook for the great piastre (kirsh).
In Copper there are pieces of Vi ^"'^ '/* millieme.
Weights and Measures.
1 Lirhem = ■i.K grammes = 48.is grains troy; 1 Ukiya (12 dirhem) =
37.44 grammes — I.32 oz. avoirdupois ; 1 Roll (12 ukiya) = 449.28 grammes
= 15.85 oz. (just under lib.); 1 Okka (400 dirhem) = I.048 kilogrammes =
2.7513 lbs. (about 2 lbs. 12 oz.) •, 1 Katitdr = 100 Rotl = 36 Okka = 44.928 kilo-
grammes = 99.0498 lbs. (about 99 lbs." */b oz.).
1 Rub' a = 8.25 litres = 1 gal. 3 qts. 1/2 pint; 1 Weibeh = 4 rub'a =
33 litres = 7 gals. 1 gt. ; 1 Ardebb = 6 weibeh = 198 litres = 43 gals. 2 qts.
1 Dird' beledi = O.ss metre = 22.835 inches ; 1 Kasdbeh = 3.55 metres =
11 ft. 7.763 inches = 3.8S2 yds. — 1 Square Kasabeh = l'2.6o square metres =
15.072 sq. yds.; 1 Fedddn = 4200.83 sq. metres "= about 5024 sq. yds. = Loss acre.
In all official transactions the metrical system of weights and measures
is employed.
Official Time.
East European Time {i.e. that of 30° E. long.) has been ofiicially adopted
in Egypt and the Sudan. Egyptian time is thus 1 hr. in advance of Central
Europe time (Italy, Switzerland, Germany) and 2 hrs. in advance of Green-
wich time.
^^
1^
B.
Sl-Gftiia' R
fe»' ■■''•'»'''/'-- .-tl'^
H^. j^ nailer
i.,
^:
*- AV^ a d V ^
Miurptl el-Moglxrd
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^J,. r.r-.-.vVr^
,„.sS '^ :>2JS."-ii) E , arabe B A H K "
EGYPT
AND
THE SUDAN
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
KARL BAEDEKER
WITJI 22 MAI'S. S5 TT.ANS, AND 55 VIGNKTTES
SEVENTH REMODELLED EDITION
LEIPZIG: KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER
LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN, 1 ADEI.PHI TERRACE, W.C.
NEW VOUK: CHAS. SCHIBNER\S SONS, FIFTH AVE. AT 48TH ST.
1914
All riglttt reserved
'Go, little book, God send thee good passage,
And specially let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thou art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all.'
/ ^8(005.0
Made and Fbintkd in Gbrmant.
ARTS
PREFACE. (tlH
Ever since the attention of the civilized world was re-
directed to Egypt at the beginning of the 19tli century, the
scientific investigation of its innumerable monuments has
pointed with ever-growing certainty to the valley of the Nile
as the cradle of history and of human culture. At the same
time Egypt, like other Eastern countries, possesses high nat-
ural attractions, in the peculiar charms of its oriental cli-
mate, the singularly clear atmosphere, the wonderful colour-
ing and effects of light and shade, the exuberant fertility of
the cultivated districts contrasted with the solemn desert,
and the manners, customs, and appearance of a most inter-
esting and most diversified population.
The Handbook to Egypt i-, of which the present is the
seventh edition, is founded on the combined work of several
Egyptologists and other Oriental scholars. Among the former
must be specially mentioned Professor Georg Steindorff, of
Leipzig University, who has edited the German Handbook
since the year 1897, and has also supervised the preparation
of the English editions. The Editor gratefully acknowledges
also the information received from numerous correspondents
and official sources which has often proved most useful; any
further corrections or suggestions will be highly appreciated.
The Editor hopes, that by confining himself to essential
points and by carefully arranging his material, he has suc-
ceeded, within small compass, in supplying the traveller with
the necessary information regarding the country and the
people he is about to visit. An attempt has been made to in-
dicate clearly the most important among the bewildering mnl-
tiplicity of the monuments of antiquity, and the descriptions
of these have been so arranged that, assuming the traveller to
have previously read at his leisure our account of the origin,
history, and significance of a particular temple or tomb, etc.,
T The contents (if the Handbook are divided into Foub Sections
d. Introductory MattfT. Approaches to Egypt, pp. i-cxc and 1-6; II. Lower
Egypt, pp. 7-198; III. Upper Egypt, Lower jfubia, Upper Nubia and the
Sudan, pp. 199-436; IV. General Inde.v, pp. 4374.581, each of which may
be separ.Ttely removed from the vnlume by cuttinc: the gauze backing
visible on opening the book at the requisite pages. Linen covers for these
sections may be obtained through any liookseller.
vi4^i/ir„ PREFACE.
he will find adequate guidance on the spot in that portion of
our description that is printed in larger type, while those who
have time and inclination for a more thorough examination
will find additional particulars in small type.
The Maps and Plans have been the object of the Editor's
special care, and all have been carefully revised by Prof.
Steindorflf, with the aid of the most recent publications. Nine
maps and plans, several new ground-plans, and a represen-
tation of Egyptian coins have been entirely redrawn or appear
for the first time in the present edition. The spelling of the
names on the maps of the Faiyiim and of the Nile from Cairo
to Assuan (3 sheets) follows the official French transliteration
of the 'Recensement general de I'Egypte du ler juin 1897',
whereas in some of the new maps the spelling of the Egyptian
Survey Department (comp. p. cxc) has been adopted. At the
end ot' the volume will be found a key-map indicating the
ground covered by the special maps of the volume.
Hotels, etc., see p. xviii. Hotels which cannot be ac-
curately characterized without exposing the Editor to the risk
of legal proceedings are left unuientioned.
To hotel- proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards
travellers is the sole passi)ort to his commendation, and that
no advertisements of any kind are admitted to his Hand-
books. Hotel-keepers are warned against persons represent-
ing themselves as agents for Baedeker's Handbooks.
Abbreviations.
PI. = plan. I S. = south, etc.
R. = route; room. E. = east, etc.
B. = breakfast. I W. = west, etc.
D. = dinner. ; lir. = hour
pens. = pension (board and lodging)
ca. = circa, about.
comp. — compare.
r. = right.
1. = left.
Dyn. = dynasty
mill. = minute.
M. = English mile.
ft. = English foot.
yd. = yard.
iBE = Egyptian pound]
pias. = piastre >coiiip. p. xv.
N. = north, northwards, northern. | mill. = millieme
The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the
year of his death. The number of feet given after the name of a place
shows its height above the sea-level. The number of miles placed before
the principal places on railway -routes, steamer -routes, and highroads
indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route.
Asterisks denote objects of special interest or imply commendation.
CONTENTS.
Page
I. Preliminary Information xiii
(1). Plan of Tour. Season. Expenses. Money. Equip-
ment. Travelling Companions xiii
(2). Coinage. Passports. Custom House xv
(8). Conveyance^ : Steamers. Railways. Narrow Gauge
Railways. Cabs. Donkeys xvii
[4). Hotels xviii
(^5). Post and Telegraph Offices xix
(61. Public Safety. Consulates. Courts of Justice . . xx
(7). Egypt as a Health Resort. Medical Hints (by
Dr. Leigh Canney) xxi
(8). Intercourse with Orientals. Dragomans .... xxiv
(9). 4J"*^i*ii Caf^s. Story Tellers. Musicians. Singers.
Shadow Plays. Baths xxvi
(10). The Egyptian Dialect of Arabic (by Dr. C. Priifer) xxviii
II. Geographical and Political Notes xlvi
a. Area and Subdivisions of Egypt (by Captain H.
6. Lyons) xlvi
b. Origin and Present Condition of the Egyptians (by
Prof. O. Schweinfurlh') xlviil
il). The Fellahin li
(2). Copts liv
(3). Beduins Ivii
(4). Arab Dwellers in Towns lix
(5). Nubians Ix
(6). Sudan Nej^roes Ixi
(7). Turks Ixi
(8). Levantines, Syrians, etc Ixi
(9). Armenians and Jeves Ixii
(10). Europeans Ixii
c. The Nile (by Captain H. 6. Lyons) Ixiv
d. Geology of Egypt and Notice of the Desert . . . Ixviii
e. Agriculture and Vegetation Ixx
(1). Capabilities of the Soil IxX
(2). Irrigation Ixxi
(3). Agricultural Seasons (Winter. Summer, and
Autumn Crops). Agricultural Implements . . Ixxiii
(4). Farm Produce of Egypt Ixxiv
(5). Trees and Plantations Ixxv
f. Climate of Egypt (by Captain H. O. Lyons) . . . Ixxvi
HI. El-lslam (by Prof. C. H. Becker) Ixxix
Remarks on Mohammedan Customs xciii
Mohammedan Calendar. Festivals .... ... xuv
Tiii CONTENTS.
Page
IV. Outline of the History of Egypt xcviii
I. Ancient History (by Prof. 6. Steindorff) .... xcviii
a. From the Earliest Times to the Macedonian
Conquest in 332 B.C xcviii
1. Prehistoric Period xcviii
2. Earliest Period of the Kings xcix
3. Ancient Empire xcix
4. Middle Empire c
5. New Empire ci
6. Period of Foreign Domination civ
7. Late-Egyptian Period cv
b. Grffico-Ronian Period (332 B.C.-640 A.D.) . . evil
1. Alexander the Great and the Ptolemaic Period cvii
2. Roman Period ex
3. Byzantine Period . . . ■ cxii
II. The Middle Ages cxiii
Egypt as a Pnivince of the Empire of the Caliphs cxiii
Egypt under Independent Rulers cxv
III. Modern History cxx
Turkish Domination after 1517 cxx
The French Occupation cxx
Jlohammed Ali and his Successors o\x
V. Hieroglyphics (by Prof. G. Steindorff) ....*. cxxvi
1. Phonetic Symbols cxxviii
2. Word Signs cxxix
3. Determinatives cxxx
4. Frequently recurring Cartouches of Egyptian Kings . cxxxiii
VI. Religion of the Ancient Egyptians (by2>o/'.G.5temdor^) cxl
List of the chief Egyptian Deities and Sacred Animal? cxlix
Representations of the most important Deities .... cliii
VII. Historical Notice of Egyptian Art (by Prof. 0. Steindorff) clvii
1. Architecture ^ clvii
2. Sculpture and Painting clxxi
VIII. Buildings of the Mohammedans (by Franz-Pasha) . clxxviii
Mosques clxxx
Tombs clxxxii
Dwelling Hon.ses clx.xxiii
IX. Works on Egypt clxxxvii
Route
1. Approaches to Egypt (Steamship Lines) 1
Lower Egfypt.
2. Alexandria 9
3. From Alexandria to Cairo 31
4. Cairo 35
5. Environs of Cairo 104
6. The Pyramids of Gizeh 123
7. The Site of Ancient Memphis and the Necropolis of Sakkara 142
8. Baths of Helwan 167
9. From Cairo to Mansura via Helbeis and Zakazik .... 170
10. From Tanta to Damietta via Mansura 174
CONTENTS. ix
Ronte Page
11. From Port Sa'id to Cairo or Suez via Isma'iliyeh .... 177
1'2. The Suez Canal from Port Sa'id to Suez 181
13. Suez and its Environs 187
14. The Faiyum 190
Tipper Egypt.
Preliminary Information 200
15. From Cairo to Luxor by Railvray 205
16. From Cairo to As^iut by the Nile 224
17. From Assiut to Girgeh and Baliana (Abydos) by the Nile 235
IS. Abydos . ' 237
19. From Baliana to Keneh (Dendera) and Luxor by the Nile 244
20. Luxor and its Environs : the Site of Ancient Thebes . . 251
21. From Luxor to Assuan by Railway 332
22. From Luxor to Edfu by the Nile 341
23. From Edl'u to Assuan by the Nile 348
24. Assuan and its Environs. Philae and the Nile Dam 353, 362
25. Routes through the Eastern Desert 372
26. The Western Oases 378
Lower Nubia.
Preliminary Information 383
27. From Shellal (Phil.-cl to Kalabsheh 387
28. From Kalabsheh to Korosko 393
29. From Korosko to .4bu Simbel 399
30. The Rock Temples of Abu Simbel 404
31. From Abu Simbel to Wadi Haifa ... 410
Upper Nubia and the Stidan.
Political Summary. Climate. Preliminary Information . 415
32. From AVadi Haifa to Khartum 419
33. From Suez to Khartum via Port Sudan 423
34. Khartum and Omdurman 426
Longer Excursions to the Southern Sudan 432
Index 437
Maps.
Page
1. Map of the Delia (1 : 1,000,000), before the Title Page.
2. Map of the Ewirom of Alexandria (1 : 125,000). with (31
Map of the Mareotis Distrirt (1 : 1 ,000,000) 25
4. Map of the Immediate Envirorn of Cairo (1 : 75,000), with
(^5) Map of the Road to the Pyramids {l : 125,000) ... 105
X MAPS AND PLANS.
Page
6. Suruey Map of the Environs of Cairo (1 : 250,000; show-
ing Extent of Special Maps) 119
7. Map of the Suez Canal (1 : 500,000) 185
8. Map of the Oulf of Suez (1 : 150,000), with (9) Map of
the Springs of Moses (1 : 50,000) ' 187
10. Map of the FaiyUm (i:bOO,000) 190
11. Map of the Nile from Cairo to Benihasan (1 : 500,000) . 205
12. Map of the Nile from Benihasan to (Baliana) Nag' Ha-
madj (1 : 500,000) . . . .' 231
13. Map of the Nile from Nag' Hamddi to Assudn (1 : 500,000) 244
14. Survey Map of Thebes (1 : 50,000) 254
15. Map of the Envirom of Assudn (1 : 100,000) 353
16. Map of the Island of Philae (1 : 8030) 364
17. Map of the NileValley from Cairo to Assudn (1 : 5,000,000;
the Western Oases) 378
18. Map of the Nile from Assudn to Wddi Haifa (1 : 1,000,000),
with (19) Map of the Environs of Wddi Haifa as far as
the Second Cataract (1 : 250,000) . . . '. 387
20. Map of the Environs of KhartHm and Omdurmdn
(1 : 500,0001 ■ 426
1i. Map of the Southern Saddn (i -.[0,000,000) 432
22, General Map of Egypt (1 : 10,000,000, showing lixtent of
Special Maps), after the Index.
Flans.
1. Section of the Step Pyramid of Sakkdra clxix
2. Arabian Dwelling House: Ground Floor olxxxiv
3. Arabian Dwelling House: First Floor clxxxv
4. Plan of Alexandria (1 : 18,000), with (5) Plan of the Inner
Town (1 : 10,000) 9
6. Plan of Ancient Alexandria, 100 B.C. - 100 A.D.
(1 : 58,800) 12'
7. Plan of Ancient Alexandria in the 3rd-5tli cent, after
Christ (1 : 58,800) 13
8. Catacombs of Kom esh-Shakdfa 17
9. Graeco-Roman Museum at Alexandria 22
10. Plan of Ramleh (1 : 40,000) 25
11. Plan of Cairo (_i -.12,300) 35
12. Mosque of El-Azhar (Arabian University; 1 : 1250) . . 57
13. Mosque of El-Muaiyad (1 : 1500) 60
14. Arabian Museum at Cairo 63
15. Mosque of Sultan Hasan 67
16. Mosque of Mohammed AU 69
17. Mosque of Ibn Tulun 72
18. Egyptian 'Museum at Cairo 81
19. Plan of Old Cairo (^i -.7150 ) 106
PLANS. xl
Page
20. Church of Ahu Sergeh, a.t Old C&ixo 108
2i. Plan of the Tombs of the Caliphs {1:12,500) HI
22. Tomb Mosque of Sultan BarMk 112
23. Tomb Mosque of Kait Bey .' .' 114
24. Plan of the Pyramids of Gtzeh (1 : 13,560) 123
25. Section of the Great Pyramid of Gizeh 127
26. Section of the Second Pyramid of Gtzeh 132
27. Section of the Third Pyramid of Gheh 134
28. Valley Temple of Khephren 136
29. Plan of the Buins of Memphis (i: 20,000) 143
30. Plan of the Pyramids and Tombs of Sakkdra and Abuih
(1:25,000) \ . ." ■ . 145
31 . Sernpeum at Sakkdra 148
32. Mastaba of Ti ." 150
33. Mastaba of Mereruka 160
34. Mastaba of Ke-gem-ni 162
35. Mastaba of Ptahhotep 164
36. Plaiiof Helioan{i:2b,000) 169
37. 88. Plans of the Harbour aiid the Toirn of Port Sa'td
(1:50,000 and 1:25,000) 177
39. Plan of Suez (1:25,000) 187
40. Family Tomb of AmenopMs IV. 217
41. Plan of Abydos (i : iA,600) 238
42. Temple of Sethos I. at Abydos (i : UIG) ^ 239
43. Temple of Hathor at Dendera (1 : 685) 246
44. 45, 46. Crypts of the Temple at Dendera (1 : 685) . .248, 249
47. Plan of Luxor (i -.10,000) 251
48. Temple of Luxor (1 : lOQl) 258
49. Temple of Khons at Karnak 263
50. Sketch Plan of Karnak (1 : 4000) 264
51. Temple of Ammon at Karnak {I : i'dOi) 265
52. Plan of the Necropolis of Thebes (1 : 19,000), with (53) Plan
of the Tombs of the Kings at Blbdn el-Muluk (1 : 10,000) '281
54. Temple of Sethos L at Kurna , . 282
55. Tomb of Ramses IV. .' 286
56. Tomb of Ramses IX 287
57. Tomb of Amenephthes 287
58. Tomb of Ramses VI 288
59. Tomb of Ramses III 289
60. Tomb of Sethos 1 292
61. Tomb of Thutmom III 296
62. Tomb of Amenophis II 297
63. Tomb of Thutmosis 1 297
64. Temple of Deir el-Bahri 299
65. The Ramesseum (1 : 1200) 806
66. Tomb of liekhmere 310
xli VIGNETTES.
Page
67. Tomb of Sennofer 310
68. Tomb of Amenemheb 311
69. Tomb of Nakht 314
70. Temple of Deir el- Medlneh 317
71. TombofHuye 318
72. Tomb of Queen Titi 320
73. Tomb of Prince Amen-her-khopshef 321
74. Tomb of Ne fret- ere Mi-en-Mut 321
75. Temple of Medlnet Habu (1 : 2300) 322
76. Rock Chapel of Gebel Silsileh 339
77. Temple of Horm at Edfu 344
78. Temple of Kom Ombo 350
79. Plan of Assuan (1 : 25,000) 353
80. Temple of Isls on Philne (I : 1006) 365
81. Temple of Kaldhsheh 390
82. Temple of Gerf-Hvsein 394
83. Great Temple of Abu Simbel 405
84. Temple of Hathor at Ahu Simbel 409
85. Plan of Kliariam and Omdurman [1 : 60,000) 426
Vignettes.
1. Egyptian Coins xvi
2. Mohammedan Posttires of Prayer Isxxvii
3. Cartouches of Egyptian Kings (jxxxiii-uxxxix
4-23. Mythological Illustrations cliii-clvi
24-30. Art Illustrations clviii-clx, clxLv, clxxii
31, 32. Water Carrier* (Sakka, Hemali) "/ 48
33. Public Kitchen ' 49
34. /Iranian Barber 49
35-54. Reliefs in the Mastaba of Ti, at Sakkara .... 151-158
55. Hypostyle Hall at Karnak f reconstruction, after Maspero) 269
xlii
I. Preliminary Inforaiation.
(1). Plan of Tour. Season. Expenses. Money. Equipment.
Travelling Companions.
Plan. The intending visitor to Egypt may make an outline of
his tour at home with as great ease as for any of the countries of
Europe. A glimpse of the country may he obtained in 4 or 5 weeks
(exclusive of the journey out") as follows: 2 days may be devoted
to Alexandria and the journey thence to Cairo — travellers landing
at Port Sa'id should take the first train to Cairo, as the town is
uninteresting — 10 days may be spent in Cairo and its neighbour-
hood (pp. 35 et seq.), 12 days suffice for the railway-journey to As-
suan and back (or 20 days by a tourist-steamer), and 3 days may be
given to Assuaii (p. 353), while a few days must be set aside for
resting. An excursion to the Faiyum (R. 14) or to the oasis of
Khargeh (p. 379) takes 3-4 days. — An expedition to Upper Nubia
(from Assuan to Wadi Haifa and back) requires 7 days by tourist-
steamer (see p. 384) ; but if the quicker government steamer (p. 383)
is used and the railway from "Wadi Haifa, the excursion can be ex-
tended to Khartum (p. 420) within almost the same period. A month
should be allowed for tlie steamer-trip from Khartum to Gondokoro
(Rejaf) and bai-k (p. 434), and 4 days for the return from Khartum
to Suez via Port Sudan (R. 33).
Season. The best time for a tour in Egypt is between Nov. 1st
and Maylst, .Tan. to March being the most crowded period. In
Alexandria stormy and rainy weather very often prevails from
December to March, but in the interior of Egypt, to the S. of
a line joining Dainanliijr, Tanta, and Mansura, the case is con-
siderably altered. JCven in the Delta, however, marked falls in
temperature (sometimes to 43" Fahr.) occur between the end of
November and the end of Marcli, and rain-storms, rendering the
roads almost impassable, are not infrequent. In Cairo December,
January, and sometimes February are distinctly chilly, which is the
more inconvenient as there are no adequate heating-arrangements
in the houses ; but November and March are very fine, as also
usually are October, April, and May, especially for travellers who
do not object to a little heat. In Upper Egypt, from the beginning of
November till the middle or end of April, the prevalent weather is
that of a delicious spring or moderate summer. Those who intend to
winter in Egypt should spend November in Cairo, move on thence in
December, on the approach of cold weather, to Upper Egypt (Luxor,
Assuan), and return to Cairo in February. — In summer prices are
naturally much lower, but most of the larger hotels are closed.
Expenses. The cost of a tour in Egypt, and in oriental coun-
tries generally, is greater than that of a visit to most parts of Europe,
and the traveller should estimate his average daily expenditure at
Xiy I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 1. Equipment.
not less than 25-30«. (Steamboat and railway fares are of course
extra; pp. 1-6.) The traveller whose time is very limited, or who
is accompanied by ladies, will require also the services of a guide,
or 'dragoman' (p. xxv; 5-lOa. per day). With modest requirements,
however, it is possible to live more cheaply.
Money. A small sum of money for the early part of the journey
may be taken in English or French gold, but large sums should
always be in the form of letters of credit or circular notes. These
are issued by the principal London banks and by Messrs. Thos.
Cook & Son. Travellers proceeding to Upper Egypt may deposit
these notes in Cairo and have supplies sent after them, as required,
by money orders. European bankers in Alexandria and Cairo, see
pp. 10, 37. The National Bank of Egypt has branches or agents in
most Egyptian towns and also in Khartum, Suakin, and Port Sudan.
The cheques issued by the American Express Companies, the Ameri-
can Bankers' Association, and the International Navigation Co. are
convenient also. — For Money Orders, see p. xix.
Equipment. For all ordinary purposes a couple of light tweed
suits, a few flannel and soft cotton shirts, a supply of thin woollen
socks, one pair of light and easy boots, one of shoes, and one of
slippers, a moderately warm ulster or long travelling cloak, a pith
helmet and a soft felt hat or a straw hat, together with the most
necessary articles of the toilet, will amply suffice. Evening dress is
usually worn at dinner at the principal hotels. Riding-breeches
and gaiters are convenient for excursions. All articles should be
new and strongly made, as it is often difficult to get repairs properly
executed in Egypt. I'cw travellers walk in Egypt, except for very
short distances, but sportsmen should add a stout pair of waterproof
shooting-boots to their ciiuipmcnt.
Among the most important extras to be brought from Europe are a
drinking-cup of leather or metal, » flask, a strong pocket-knife, a thermo-
meter, a pocket-compass, a lield-glass, and an electric, acetylene, or' mag-
nesium lamp for lighting caverns and dark chambers. — Phutographic
materials, dry plates, film.s, etc., can be obtained in Cairo, but it is pre-
ferable to bring a good stock carefully packed (films in air-tight tin cases)
from home, taking care to attend the customs examination in_ person.
On account of the climate photographs should be developed ' as soon as
possible; but the traveller should be chary of entrusting his negative.s
(particularly in the case of Dims) to small photograph dealers.
Companions. The facilities for travel in Egypt are now such
that even the inexperienced traveller will have little^difflculty in
managing an independent tour, without recourse to the assistance
of tourist-agents or of dragomans (p. xxv), which add considerably
to the cost. — In spring and autumn Tourist Parties are organized
for a visit to Egypt and the East by the tourist-agents Afc.'srs. Thos.
Cook <f Son (Ludgate Circus, London) and the Hamburg ^' Anglo-
American Nile Co. (15 Cockspur St., Loudon, S.W.), programmes of
which, with full information, may be obtained free on application.
Travellers who join such parties are enabled to inspect the principal
5. Coinage. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xt
points of interest with the minimum expenditure of time and trouble,
but must naturally surrender, to a great extent, both their freedom of
choice of companions and the disposal of their time. The expenses
are not below those of an independent tour.
(2). Coinage. Passports. Custom House.
Coinage (comp. the illustrations on p. xvl and the tables before
the title-page and at the end of the book). The Egyptian Pound ('Livre
Egyptienne'; £E) is worth 20s. B'/irf., and is divided into 1000 Mil-
liemes or lOO Piastres. The Arabic name for the piastre is Kirsh (pi.
Kurush; pronounced in Cairo ^irsh, urusli), but the European name
is everywhere current. Travellers should note the distinction that
is still frequently made between the 'great piastre" (kirsh sdgh), worth
10 raillieraes, and the 'little (or half) piastre' (kirsh la'rtfa) , worth
f) milliemes. — F]gyptian gold coins are .seldom met with, their place
being taken by the British sovereign {Qineih inglhi = 97 pias. i) mill.)
and the French napoleon (20 fr. ; Bintu =^ 77 pias. 2 mill., but reg-
ularly reckoned at 77 pias.), both of whi<h are legally current, and
by the banknotes of the National Bank of Egypt (for oO pias., £ E 1,
£ E 5, £ E 10, £ E 50, and £ E 100). At Alexandria and Suez, and
a few other points, reckoning also in francs is still common. Where
British influence is strong, and especially in Cairo, the vfoxdShiliirxj
. is used for the Riib' liiyOl^ which is equivalent to about la. ^/t^d. Copper
coins (comp. p. iil are met with only in dealings with tlie natives.
All the Egyptian roins are minted at Birmingham.
A liheral supply of small change is more essential in (he Kast than
anywhere else (comp. pp. x.xiv, 37). When obtaining change, travellers
should be on their fjuard against counterfeit or depreciated (i.e. worn or
perforated) pieces, which arc common enough.
Passpoets are not absolutely necessary; and one's visiting-card
practically serves all its functions in the interior. Bankers, however,
freqtiently require strangers to (;st.Tblish their identity by some such
document; and the countenance and help of consuls also must
depend upon the proof of nationality offered to them by the travelleT.
— Travellers who intend to proceed to Turkey must be provided
either with a passport vise by a Turkish consul at home or with a
tezkereh (travelling permit) to be obtained through a consul.
Passports may be obtained in Great Britain direct from the Passport De-
partment of the Foreign Office (fee 2.^.) or through any nf the usual tonrist-
agents. — In the United States application for pas,<!iiorts should be made
to the Bureau of Citizenship, State De.partment, Washington, U.C.
Custom Housr. Tourists' luggage is subjected to a custom-
house examination at the port of entry. The objects chiefly sought
for are tobacco and cigars, ou which a somewhat high tax is levied
(20 or 25 pias. per kilogramme or 2'/5lbs.). Unused articles are sub-
ject to an ad valorem duty of 8 per cent, at Alexandria an additional
V2 V^^ <5®"^ ^s charged for quay and paving dues. A similar duty is
levied on motor-cars, cycles, type-writing machines, and tirearms
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 2. Coinage.
Egyptian Coins
Silver Coins
20 piastres (riyal masri; ca. is.) 10 piastres (nusseh riyal; ca. 2t.)
5 piastres
(rub' riyal;
2 piastres
(kirsbein ;
ca. 5d.)
1 piastre
(kirsh safsh
ca. 2Vv<i.)
Nickel Coins
1 piastre
(kirsh sagh;
ca. 2%d.)
'/z piastre
(kirsh ta'rifa;
ca. Id!.)
2 milliemes 1 millieme
(ca. 1/2(^.1 (ca. 'A(i.)
On the reverse of all the coins is the name of the sultan in ornamental
floarisbes.
3. Conveyanceg. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xvii
(p. 418), but the amount is refunded if the article is re-exported
within a year, on production of the customs receipt (certifloat dii
payement de droits en depot). The duty is paid at the port of entry
or in the Bonded Warehouse in Cairo. In case of difficulty or dis-
pute one of the higher officials should be appealed to.
Oood, though somewhat expensive, cigars may be obtained in Cairo
and Alexandria. The importation of one's own cigars is attended with so
much trouble as hardly to be worthwhile. The traveller is recommended
to content himself with cigarettes (comp. p. 41). Tobacco (Ditkhkh&n) should
be purchased in small quantities only, as it gets dry very soon.
(3). Conveyances.
Steamers. The necessary information about the steamer-lines
between Europe and Egypt is given at pp. 1-6. For the Nile
steamers to Upper Egypt, see p. 201 ; to Lower Nubia, seep. 383;
in the Sudan, see p. 417.
Bailways. The official time-tables are published in the Indi-
cateurdes Chemins de Fer de tEgypte, which is sold for 10 mill, at the
chief railway stations, at the Cairo central telegraph office, and at
the booksellers'. Time-tables are exhibited also in the larger hotels.
Tlie railway-carriages resemble those of France or Italy. First-class
passengers are permitted to take a reasonable qiiantity of small lug-
gage with them into the carriages. The second-class carriages arc
comfortable enough for day-journeys on the main routes (Alexandria
to Cairo, Cairo to Mansura, Cairo to Port Sa'id or Suez, Cairo to
Assuan), especially by the express-trains 5 and their use effects a
saving of 50 per cent in fares. But on branch-lines all travellers
should take flrst-class tickets, especially at night. The third-class
carriages are quite unsuited for Europeans.
The trains are not much slower than in Europe and are very
punctual. The traveller should be at the station in good time, espe-
cially as heavy luggage must be booked '/4 hr. before tho departure
of the train. The luggage-tariff is somewhat complicated. Hand-
luggage up to 55 lbs. is free. The cloak-room charge is 5 milliemes
each package per day. Passenger- fares are calculated on a zone-
system, applicable to both express and slow trains (Istcl. 5 mill,
per kilomfitre up to 50 kil.; 51-100 kil., 41/2 mill- per kil.; above
250 kil., 21/2 mill- )• Passenger-tickets are printed in French and
Arabic; luggage-tickets in Arabic only. A reduced tariff and cheap
return-tickets are in use on the lAgnes de Banlieue or suburban
lines (between Cairo, Kalyub, and the Barrage dn Nil; between
Cairo, Matariyeh, and El-Marg; between Suez and Suez Docks;
between Alexandria, Ramleh, and Abukir). Return-tickets at a re-
duction of 5 per cent on the double fare are issued to and from the
larger stations, but are valid for 4 days only. — In hot weather the
dust, which penetrates the carriages even when the windows are
closed, renders railway travelling in Egypt exceedingly unpleasant.
At the chief stations on the express-routes there are RaUivay Buffets
IUkoekkr's Egypt. 7th Kdit. '5
xviii I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 4. HnteU.
(no hot viands). At other stations refreshments are bronght to the
carriage-windows (bargaining necessary ; 2 oranges Y2 pi^s.). The
water offered for sale should be abstained from. In most of the
express-trains there are dining-cars (B. lO, lunch 20, 0.25 pias.).
Narrow Gauge Railways. The Egyptian Light Bailways cover
the Delta and the Faiyum (p. 190} with a network of lines, which,
though of little importance to the ordinary tourist, enable the busi-
ness man, the explorer, and the specialist to reach various remote
points with comparative ease.
The Cabs (sing. 'araMyeK) in the large towns are generally very
good. The official tariffs are exhibited in the vehicles and are ad-
vertised in the 'Indicateur des Chemins de Fer' (see p. xvii). At
Alexandria and Cairo there are also Taximeter Cabs and Taximeter
Motor Cabs. The latter are not adapted for drives outside the city
except on good roads. The cab-drivers (comp. pp. xxiv, 39) are
unable to read the names of the streets, while many of them know
the various points only by names of their own. The hotel-portier
should therefore be employed as interpreter. The traveller should
keep his eye on the direction taken by the cab, as sometimes the
cabman drives straight ahead in complete ignorance of the way and
requires to be guided, e.g. by being touched with a stick on the right
or left arm according to the turning, or with the words yemtnak (to
the right), shimulak (to the left), dughri (straight on). The cabs
usually drive rapidly, so that their use saves time and strength.
Bonkeys (sing. Aomar) are found everywhere. The better ones
belong to a finer race than the European breed. In Alexandria and
Cairo they are, however, not used by Europeans for riding within
the town. In the towns the donkeys are generally well bridled and
saddled; side-saddles are not always obtainable, and when they are
an extra charge of 5 pias. is sometimes made for them. The pro-
clivities of the donkey-boys for prodding the animals with pointed
sticks and urging them to gallop should be sternly repressed. When
a slower pace is desired the rider shouts 'ala mahlak or 'ala mahla-
kum ; if a quicker pace is wanted, yallah, yallah, or mashsht, or suk
el-homdr; if a halt is to be made, 'andak, hush^ or the English word
'stop' (comp. p. xxiv).
(4). Hotels.
In Cairo and its environs and at Luxor and Assuan (comp. pp. xxi,
xxii) there are hotels quite of the first class, though perhaps not
equal to the most modern establishments in Europe and America.
There are good hotels also at Alexandria, Port Sa'ld, and a few other
places. They are managed according to international methods; the
waiters and chamber-maids are chiefly German or Swiss, while the
'boots' are generally Nubians (Barabra) who in most cases under-
stand one or several European languages. As on the American
system a fixed sum daily is paid for lodging and board, the latter
5. Post Office. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xi\
consisting of breakfast, luncheon, and dinner. Wine, beer, and
other liquors, which are extras, are dear, the cheapest wine cost-
ing 10-15 pias. per bottle and British and German beer 5-6 pias.
The waiter's fee should be calculated at about 0 per cent of the bill.
At Pbnsioxs the average charge is 30-50 pias. per day, or £E 7-10
per month. The hotel-laundries are somewhat expeusive (tariff at
the hotels); the Arab 'washermen' are very good and mucli cheaper.
In other towns the hotels are much inferior. They are mostly
kept by Greeks, some (in the Delta) by Italians; the charge for a
night's lodging is 8-10 pias. A cafe' or bar is frequently connected
with the 'hotel' but no restaurant, so that meals have to be taken
in a neighbouring eating-house.
(5). Post and Telegraph Offices.
The Egyptian Postal System (pp. 10, 37) is well organized not
only in all the principal towns but also in the smaller towns of
tlie Delta and Upper Egypt. The addresses of letters destined for
Kgypt should always be written very distinctly, particularly the
initial letters. They had better be directed to the hotel at which
the traveller intends to stay, or they may be sent to the head post-
office (Post Office, Poste Kestaute) in Cairo, in which case the
traveller should inform the officials at the Bureau de Reuseigue-
nients by letter of his local address, and his letters will be for-
warded thither. On leaving for Upper Egypt travellers shouM
notify the postal authorities at Cairo, so that letters may be punc-
tually forwarded; passengers by the Nile steamers may have their
correspondence looked after by the steamboat- company. — Rt-
gistered Letters are not delivered to the addressee unless he has a
passport or gets a resident or the consular kavass (p. xx) to testify to
liis identity. Registration fee 5, for foreign countries 10 milliemes.
Tiio Postage for letters not more than 30 grammes in weight within
a town is 3 mil!., within Egypt 5 mill.; letters not exceeding
20 grammes to Great Britain and its colonies and to Italy 5 mill.,
to other countries in the Postal Union 10 mill. ; domestic Post Cards
2 mill., foreign 4 mill. — Parcels not exceeding 11 lbs. in weight
may be sent to the countries of the Union, and must be accompanied
by two declarations (in English or French). An export duty of 1 per
cent ad valorem is charged on parcels of more than £ E 1 in value.
Parcels not exceeding 3 lbs. may be sent from England via P. & O.
steamer for Is., from 3 lbs. to 7 lbs. Is. Dd., from 7 lbs. to 11 lbs.
2s. Gd. ; via France and Italy the rates are 2s., 2s. Qd.. os. "Within
Egypt parcels under 2V5 lbs. cost 20 mill., under 68/5 lbs. 30 mill.,
up to 11 lbs. 40 mill. — Money Orders up to 40i. may be sent to
Egypt from most European countries. In Groat Britain they are
issued at the following rates : for sums not exceeding 2l., Gd.-, Gi.,
1«. ; iOl.jia.Gd. The rate of exchange is taken into account. Within
b*
XX I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION, ft. Consulates.
Egypt money orders cost 3 mill, per £ E 1 (up to £ E 100), to the
Sfldan 5 mill, (minimum in either case 10 mill.). — Further par-
ticulars will be found in the official Guide Postal Egyptien, obtain-
able at any post-office for 30 mill., in the Indicateur des Chemins
de Fer (p. xvii), or in the Government Almanac (p. xcv).
Telegrams. There are two telegraph - systems in Egypt, the
Egyptian and the English. Messages within Egypt may be sent only
by the former, which has over 300 stations, of which at least 30 are
open day and night. The tariff is 20 mill, for 8 words or less, and
5 mill, for every two additional words. The charge for urgent tele-
grams is three times as much. Telegrams may be sent in any Euro-
pean language , except from the smaller stations , where Arabic
messages only are accepted. — Telegrams to Europe and America
should be sent by the English Eastern Telegraph Co., via Malta and
Vigo. To Europe each word (not exceeding ten letters ; if longer,
it counts as two words) costs 48 mill, from Lower Egypt, 58 mill,
from Upper Egypt, 63 mill, from the Sudan. — A telegram from
Great Britain to Alexandria costs Is. per word; to other parts of
Egypt Is., 1?. lei., Is. 4d. — Further particulars will be found in
the Telegraph Guide (2 pias.), which may be had at the office of the
government telegraph system in Cairo.
Telephones. There are exchanges in most of the larger towns,
and at Cairo and Alexandria there are public call-offices also.
Charge for 3 min. conversation 50 mill., 6 min. 100 mill.
(6). Public Safety. Consulates. Courts of Justice.
Public Safety. The authority of the Khedive is so well estab-
lished throughout Egypt that travellers are as safe as in Europe.
Weapons for self-defence are an unnecessary encumbrance. — For
information concerning firearms and ammunition, see p. 418.
Consulates. Consuls in the East enjoy the same privilege of
exterritoriality as ambassadors in other countries. On public occa-
sions they are attended by kavasses, or armed consular officers. A
distinction is sometimes made between professional ('consulesmissi')
and commercial consuls ; and there are consuls, vice-consuls, and
consular agents, possessing various degrees of authority. In Egypt
the diplomatic representatives of the powers are known as consuls-
general. In all cases of emergency the traveller should apply for
advice to the nearest consul of his country.
There are no consuls within the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan (p. 415).
Courts of Justice. In place of the exclusive consular juris-
diction to which foreigners were formerly liable, a system oi Mixed
Tribunals was established in 1875. The judges consist of natives
and foreigners (the latter generally appointed by the Khedive from
qualified officials nominated by the Great Powers), who give their
verdicts in accordance with Egyptian law, founded on that of France
7. Health Resorts. 1. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. vxi
and Italy. Even cases in which the Khedive himself and the Egyp-
tian government are concerned are tried before this tribunal, which
includes courts of first and second instance. The courts of the first
instance are at Cairo, Alexandria, and Mansura, and there is a dele-
gation at Port Sa'id. The appeal-court is at Alexandria. Lists of
qualified barristers are exhibited in the anterooms of the courts. —
Important civil cases between natives, and all criminal cases, are
tried by the Native Courts (Central Tribunals), established in 1883,
situated at Cairo, Alexandria, Benisueif, Assiiit, Keneh, Tanta, and
Zakazik. These form also the tribunals of second instance for the
petty misdemeanours and civil suits dealt with by the Summary
Tribunals (47 in number). In addition there are 108 District Courts
(Markaz Tribunals), which deal with civil actions and with criminal
cases not involving more than 3 months' imprisonment or a fine of
more than £E 10. The appeal-court for important cases is at Cairo
(at the Bab el-Khalk); about half the number of its judges are Euro-
peans. The procedure is based upon the Code Napole'on.
(7). Egypt as a Health Resort. Medical Hints.
Tip Leigh Canneii, M. I). (Land.), F. R. Met. Soc.
The beneficial influence of the climate of Egypt (coinp. p. Lxxvi)
lias been known since the Roman period at least, and of late years
an increasing number of visitors have flocked to the Nile to enjoy
the benefits of its remarkably dry winter-climate. Phthisis (if not
too far advanced and if the patient has a sound heart and little or
110 fever), asthma, chronic bronchitis, Bright's disease, rheumatoid
arthritis:, gout, and diseases of the kidneys are some of the most
important ailments that are at least alleviated by a visit to Egypt.
Invalids should remember that a stay of a few weeks only is not
sufficient, and should remain from the beginning of November to
the end of March. In deciding which of the health-resorts in Egypt
a given case should be sent to, the physician must of course consider
whether or not warmth must be secured along with dryness of air,
whether purity of air alone or also a bright stimulating climate is
to be specially sought, and whether cold winds and blowing sand
are harmful or not. It is advisable in all cases to secure the advice
of the physician resident at the spot selected.
Cairo itself cannot properly be considered a health-resort. The
presence of a large city with its noise and bustle, the higher rela-
tive humidity, owing to the N. wind and the neighbourhood of the
Delta, and other causes, all combine to compel those who seek health
from the climate of Egypt to look to other stations. There are, how-
ever, excellent health-resorts in the immediate vicinity of the capi-
tal, such as the Mena House Hotel, the Oasis of New Heliopolis, and
Helwan. Luxor and (still better) AssuCin, in Upper Egypt, offer still
more favourable climatic conditions.
xxii I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 7. Health Rcforts.
Mena House Hotel (p. 36), 8 M. to the W. of Cairo, stands near
the Great Pyramid of Gizeh , on the verge of the Libyan Desert.
The mean maximum temperature is 69° Fahr. in Dec, 66° in Jan.,
72° in Feb., 74° in March, and 80° in April. The mean minimum
for the four months Dec. to March is 50°. The daily range of tem-
perature is 21°. The relative humidity (i.e. the amount of moisture,
in relation to the temperature at the time, that the air holds out of
a possible 100 per cent) from Dec. to March is 58 per cent by day
(8 a.m. to 6 p.m.) and 80 per cent at night (8 p.m. to 0 a.m.).
Dew falls in -winter on about two nights out of three. At both Mena
House and Helwan the prevailing winds and the amount of rain are
probably much the same as in Cairo. The purity of the air at both
places is marked ; the medical and sanitary arrangements are ex-
cellent. — The Oasis of New Heliopolis (p. 119), founded as a health-
resort a few years ago, possesses similar advantages.
Helwan (p. 167), 17 M. to the S. of Cairo and 3 M. from the
cultivated land, is 115 ft. above the river. The mean maximum
temperature is 70° in Dec, 67° in Jan., 73° in Feb., and 76° in
March. The mean minimum for these four months is 50°. The daily
range of temperature is here also 21°. The relative humidity from
Dec. to March is 47 per cent by day, 66 per cent at night. — Helwan
has the advantage "f being in the desert in a pure atmosphere.
It also has warm^ )hurated and saline springs, richer in natural
constituents thar ' corresponding springs at Aix-les-Bains, Harro-
gate, Buxton, L The cases suitable for the baths here are such
as would derive , .eflt from hydro-therapeutic treatment as carried
on at Harrogate, ^ath, Aix, etc.; of late years Helwan has been
especially recommended to sufferers from kidney- diseases, and
suitable diet is provided at all the hotels and pensions.
Luxor (p. 251) is situated about 400 M. to the S. of Cairo, in
the Theban plain on the right bank of the river. The prevailing
winds are N.W. and N., as in the whole country. The mean maxi-
mum temperature is 76° in Dec, 74° in Jan., 78° in Feb., and 85"
in March. The mean minimum for these four months is 50°. The
relative humidity is 41 per cent by 'day, 64 per cent at night. — In
addition to the advantage of its warm and dry climate Luxor has an
almost inexhaustible interest in its numerous antiquities, temples,
and tombs. — The temperature is 7-9° warmer than at Mena House
and Helwan. The importance of the extra warmth of Upper Egypt
must not be lost sight of, in cases where it is imperative that the
action of the skin should be at its highest level — especially as with
this warmth a bracing effect is obtained from the dryness of the air.
Assudn (p. 353), situated at the First Cataract, also on the right
bank of the river, is the dryest of the Egyptian liealtTi-xesorts and
may be specially recommended in winter, when N. Egypt is often
decidedly chilly. The prevailing winds are, as at Luxor, N.W. and
N. in winter. The mean maximum temperature is 78° in Dec, 74^/2°
7. Medical Hints. 1. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xxiii
ill Jan., 82" in Feb., and 91" in March. The mean minimum lor
these four months is 55°; and the relative humidity is 35 per cent
by day, 49 per cent at night. — Assuan is more under the immediate
influence of the desert; the air is bracing, although about 5" warmer
than at Luxor. The beauty of the surroundings lends a peculiar
charm to Assuan. — The accomii;odation for invalids is very good.
Patients should not leave Upper Egypt until the middle of April,
ou account of the cold N. wind. They will find at Athens, Corfu,
Sicily, and Capri and other points near Naples admirable transition-
stations in spring.
Medical Hints. Re vaccination is a safeguard to travellers in
I'-gypt , if not already performed within six years. Special care
-should be taken to avoid eye-trouble, and it is inadvisable to allow
one's field-glass to be used by strangers, especially natives, for fear
of infection. Those, too, who come into contact with natives should
avoid rubbing their eyes with their hands. A useful precaution
is to bathe the eyes regularly with boracic acid lotion (3 per cent),
especially on dusty days or after excursions. Visitors to Upper Egypt
should have spectacles with grey glasses. — Against sunstroke,
which, however, is rare in the winter months, the best protection is
afforded by broad-brimmed hats , sunshades, or cloths tied round
the hat so as to fall down over the back of the neck. A pith helmet
with a large flap to protect the neck may be recommended also.
The remedies for headache resulting from { 'Stroke are rest and
shade; the clothing should at once be loos "v^V and cold appli-
cations made to the head and neck. ■ '^'^
Colds are frequently followed by fever or bf i/iarrhu;a, which is
apt to develop into dysentery. Cold or iced drii - shbuld be avoided,
also unpeeled fruit and green salads. Water and milk should never
be drunk unboiled, for fear of typhoid. In cases of diarrhoea meat
should be avoided and a simple farinaceous diet adopted ; the bev-
erages should be milk and soda-water. There are European doctors
at Cairo, Alexandria, Helvvan, Luxor, Assuan, etc., also on board most
of the tourist-steamers.
Sprains are most effectually treated with cold compresses, while
the injured limb should be tightly bandaged. — The sting of a
scorpion is relieved by immediately applying ammonia ; strong doses
of alcohol may be administered internally.
Travellers should be careful to pay attention to the daily changes
of temperature (^p. Ixxvii), particularly at sunset in cultivated dis-
tricts, when the air cools very quickly and colds are easily caught.
Warmer clothing or a cloak is useful till 11 a.m., then lighter
clothing till nearly sunset, when the cloak should be resumed. The
hour for returning to the hotel varies with the place and the month,
being earliest in Jan. and latest in March and April. If the traveller
be guided by the relative humidity, it would be earliest at Mena
House, say about sunset; a little later at lielwan; at Luxor still
xxiv I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 8. Native Manners.
later, 6 p.m. (except in Jan.), and 8 p.m. in March; and latest of
all at Assuan, — it being always understood that precautions as to
extra clothing have been taken. — Those who are not invalids, and in
some cases invalids also, may sleep with the windows open with safety.
Those who wish to take a small Medicine Chest with them, a pro-
ceeding strongly recommended to anyone making long independent ex-
cursions, should consult their physician at home as to the best medi-
caments with which to stock it. The following suggestions may, however,
be useful: for fever. Quinine in pills or something of that nature; for
chronic constipation, castor-oil; for diarrhoea (or dysentery), first an aper-
ient then Bismuth (in cachets); for inflammation of the eyes, an Eye Lotion
(made from a doctor's prescription) and a glass for dropping it in; for
stings, Ammonia; for external injuries, Cotton Wool for bandaging. Subli-
mate Paiiilles and Iodoform as disinfectants, and Collodion.
(8). Intercourse with Orientals. Dragomans.
The average Oriental regards the European traveller as a CrtBsus,
therefore as fair game, and feels justified in pressing upon him with
a perpetual demand for bakshish (bakshish), which simply means
'a gift'. The number of beggars is enormous, but they arc not
nearly so importunate as those in Italy and elsewhere. Travellers
are often tempted to give for the sake of affording temporary pleasure
at a trifling cost, forgetting that the seeds of insatiable cupidity are
thereby sown, to the infinite annoyance of their successors and the
demoralization of the recipients themselves. Bakshish should never
be given except for services rendered, or to the aged and crippled 5
and the Government appeals to the tourist by public placards not
to encourage the habit of begging. A beggar may be silenced with
the words 'al Allah or Allah yehannin 'aleik (God have mercy on
thee!) or Allah ya'tik (may God give thee! J. The best reply for
more importunate cases is md fish, md fish (I have nothing for you)
or mafish bakshish (there is no present), which will generally have
the effect of dispersing the assailants for a time.
It is, of course, inevitable that coachmen, guides, donkey-boys,
and the like should expect a gratuity in addition to the stipulated
fee for their services, and the traveller should therefore take care to
be amply supplied with small Change at all times, and especially
with pieces of half a piastre (comp. pp. xv, 37). Payment should
never be made until the service stipulated for has been rendered,
after which an absolutely deaf ear should be turned to the pro-
testations and entreaties which almost invariably follow. Even when
an express bargain has been made, and more than the stipulated
sum paid, they are almost sure to pester the traveller in the way
indicated. When no bargain has been made, the fees and prices
mentioned in the Handbook, all of which are ample, should be paid
without remark ; and if the attacks which ensue are not silenced by
an air of calm indifference the traveller may use the word ruh or
imshi (be off!) or uskut (be quiet!) in a quiet but decided and im-
6'. Drayoinam. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xxv
perative tone. At the same time it must be admitted that the in-
creasing number of visitors to Egypt tends to raise prices during
the chief travelling season, so that a larger bakshish than is men-
tioned in the Handbook may sometimes be necessary.
While much caution and firmness are desirahle in dealing with
the people, it need hardly be added that the traveller should avoid
being too exacting or suspicious. He should hear in mind that
many of the natives with whom he comes in contact are mere
children, whose demands should excite amusement rather than
anger, and who often display a touching simplicity and kindliness
of disposition. The native communities hold together with remark-
able faithfulness, and the hond of a common religion, which takes
the place of 'party' in other countries, and reijuires its adherents
to address each other as 'i/« akhiiya (my brother), is far more than
a mere name. On the other hand, intimate acquaintance with Orien-
tals is to be avoided, especially with the dragomans, who sometimes
presume on their opportunities of social intercourse (comp. below).
In Lower Egypt travellers can usually make themseWes understood
in French or Italian; in Upper Egypt English is more useful.
A good deal can usually he done by signs.
Notwithstanding all the suggestions we have ventured to offer,
the traveller will to some extent have to buy his experience, in
most cases the overcharges to which he will he exposed will be
comparatively trifling; hut if extortion is attempted on a larger
scale he had better refer the matter to his consul or the police.
For the tours described in this book the services of a Dragoman
( Arab. Turguman) may easily be disj)cnsed with, even by those less
accustomed to travelling. They are useful, however, for those who
wish to see as much as possible in a very short time. Only well
recommended dragomans should be engaged, preferably those for
whom the hotels assume some responsibility. They must be treated
from the lirst as servants and all familiarity should be discouraged.
The dragomans arc with few exceptions quite uneducated, without
the least knowledge of the historic or a'sthetic significance of tlie
monuments; and their 'explanations' of them are only too often
merely garbled versions df what they have picked up from guide-
books or from the remarks of previous travellers.
Those who wish to make long tours in the desert or hunting
excursions are advised to consult residents learned in these matters.
The tourist-agents also can sometimes give good advice, and the
necessary outfit (tents, kitchen utensils, etc.) may be bought or
hired through them. — For sporting and other expeditions in the
Anglo-Egyptian Sudan, see pp. 417, 418.
On the successful terminatiun of the journey travellers are tuo apt
from motives of good nature to write a more favourable testimonial for
their dragoman than he really deserves; but this is truly an act of in-
justice to his subsequent employers. The testimonial therefore should
not omit to mention any serious c;iusc lor dissatisfaction.
xx.vi I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 9. Arabian Cafes.
(^9). Arabian Cafes. Story Tellers. Musicians. Singers-
Shadow Flays. Baths.
Arabian Cafes (sing, kahwa) are frequeuted by the lower classes
almost exclusively. The front consists of woodwork with a few open
arches. Outside the door generally runs a mastaba, or raised seat
of stone or brick, covered with mats, and there are similar seats
in the interior. Coffee is served by the kaliwagi at 1/4-I pias. per cup
(fingdn), and several nargUeU or shhheh and gozeh (water-pipes)
are kept in readiness for the use of customers. The tumbdk (Per-
sian tobacco) smoked in the gozeh is sometimes mixed with the
intoxicating hashhh (hemp, Cannabis Indica), which has an un-
mistakable smell. The importation and sale of hashish are prohi-
bited in Egypt ; it is therefore smuggled in in the most artful ways.
Story Tellers (who in private domestic circles are generally
women) are still a characteristic oriental institution. Wherever
they make their appearance, whether in the public streets or the
coffee-house, in the densely peopled alleys of the large towns or in
the smallest country-villages, they are sure to attract an attentive,
easily pleased, and exceedingly grateful crowd. The more sensational
the tale, the better, and the oftener is tlie narrator applauded with
protracted cries of 'Aah', or 'Allah', or 'Allahu akbar!'. — Most
of the story-tellers belong to the so-called Shu'ara (sing. Sha'ir),
literally 'singers'. They are known also as 'Andtireh (sing. 'Antari)
or Abu Zeidtyeh, according as their theme consists of tales and
romances from the history of 'Antar, a Beduin hero, or from that of
Abu Zeid. Others again are called Mihadditdti, i.e. narrators of
history, their province being the recital in prose of passages from
the history of Sultan Beybars (p. cxvii) and other historical heroes.
The entertainments of the 'ai/' leileh u leileh! (thousand and one
nights) are, however, no longer heard, as popular superstition has
branded this collection of tales as 'unlucky'. The themes of the
whole fraternity are too often of an immoral character.
Mnsicians by profession, called Aldttyeh (sing. Aldti), are in-
dispensable on every festive occasion. The usual instruments are
the rlkk or tambourine with little bells, the nakkdreh or semi-
spherical tambourine, the zemr or hautbois, the tabl beledi or
drum, the tabl shdmi or kettle-drum , and the darabukeh , a kind
of funnel-shaped drum (generally made of earthenware, but some-
times of wood inlaid with mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell, with
a flsh-skin stretched over the broad end), which last is accompanied
by the zummdra, a kind of double flute. A better class of instru-
ments, used for chamber music, includes the ndi, a kind of flute, the
kemengeh or two-stringed violin, the body of which consists of a cocoa
nut shell, the rebdbeh, or one-stringed violin with a square wooden
body, the kdnun, a kind of zither with strings of sheep-gut, and
astly the 'ud, the lute or mandoline, the oldest of all the instruments.
9. Baths. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. xxvii
The Egyptians consider themselves a highly masic&l jieopie. The
Kgyptian sings when indulging in his keif (i.e. dolce far niente), whether
sitting on his heels or stretched out on his mat, when driving his donkey,
when carrying stones and mortar up a scafiblding, when working in the
iiclds, when at the sakiyeh, and when rowing. He sings whether alone
iir in Company, regarding his vocal music as a means of lightening his
labour and of sweetening his repose. A peculiarity of the Egyptian songs,
however, is that they have no tune, though they have a certain rhythm,
which is always dependent on the text. They are sang through the nose
on seven or eight different notes, on which the performer wanders up and
down. The character of this so-called music is exceedingly monotonous
and, to a European ear, displeasing. The songs (maicicdl or shughl) are
generally of a lyrical, religious, or erotic description, though some of
them extol the pleasures of friendship and rational enjoyment, or express
derision of an enemy, or contempt fnr the rustic fellah. — Comp. 'The
Songs of an Egyptian Peasant', by E. Sehdfer (English edition, Leipzig, 1904).
Female SiNGBES {'Awalim, sing. 'Almeh; i.e. 'learned women')
of a good class are now very rare and perform only in the liarems
of wealthy natives. — Good Female Dancers, or Ghawdzi (sing.
Ghdityeli), were formerly one of the chief curiosities of Egypt, but
are now rare ; the performances in the cafes chantants in Cairo are
very inferior. — The Snake Chabmees {Rifa'iyeh, sing. Rifa'i ;
p. xci) exhibit performances of a very marvellous character, as
credible European residents in Cairo have testified; but the trav-
eller will rarely come in contact with them except by lucky ac-
cident. The men and boys who exhibit small snakes in the streets
or at the hotels must of course not be confounded with the Ixii'a'iyeh.
— The JuGGLEEs oxF!uwd (sing. Hawi) of Egypt are similar to those
of other countries. — Tlie performances of the Buffoons (Kurudati
or Mohabhazi) are disgracefully indelicate.
Shadow Plays (Khdiyal ed-Dill)^ formerly among the most pop-
ular spectacles in Egypt, the history of which can be traced back
to the 13th cent., are still to be met with, though seldom, in the
larger towns, especially Cairo (comp. p. 42) and Alexandria.
The Khaiyal man, with his little stage of wood and canvas, may be
seen at the 'mulids' (comp. pp. xcv, xcvi), important weddings, and in a
tew cafes. The plays, of which the most frequently performed ave tlie
Comedy of the Convent (Ifb ed-deir) and the Comedy of the Ship (Ifb el-
markib), are rather coarse, or even slightly indecent, farces in arliflcial
and long-winded verse. The figures are cut out of coloured translucent
leather and, by means of small wooden sticks, are pressed against an illu-
minated cloth in front of the stage, so that their shadows are visible on
the other side of the cloth. The entertainer, generally supported by
several assistants and musicians, recites the text of the play while moving
the figures about by means of the sticks.
Arab Baths. Tlie baths of Egypt, with their hot-air chambers,
are those commonly known as Turkish, but they are neither so clean
nor so well fitted up as some of those in the larger cities of Europe.
They are therefore seldom visited by Europeans. Those who wish
to try them once should do so early in the morning, and should
avoid Fridays, as numerous Moslems bathe on that day, which is
their Sabbath. When a cloth is hung up at the entrance to the
baths, it indicates that women only are admitted.
xxvui I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
(iO). The Egyptian Dialect of Arabic.
£1/ Dr. Curt Friifer.
The Translitekation of Arabic vocal sounds , so intensely difl'erent.
from our own, in the ordinary Latin alphabet is rendered additionally
difficult by the varied international relations of Egypt. In maps and plans,
in railway time-tables, and in other publications we find the transliteration
ditfering widely according as the French or the English view has been
adopted. In this Handbook we have transliterated the consonantal sounds
so far as possible according to English usage (e.g., sh instead of the French
ch). The pronunciation of the vowels and diphthongs is as follows: d as a
in father, a usually as a in final; e as e in belong or as a in final; eh at
the end of a word as a in final; i as ee in been, i as i in did, final i as ee
iu been; i!! as o in bone, o as 0 in on; «2 as 00 in fool, « as « in full; ai
as i in ice; cm as ow in owl; ei as a in lane; oi as oy in boy. Thus:
emir, which is pronounced 'emeer' ; fultJs-, pronounced 'fulloos' ; sheikh,
pronounced 'shake' (with a guttural k), etc. — The I of the article is
frequently unassimilated; e.g. el-rds instead of er-rds (comp. p. xxx).
Arabic belongs to the Semitic group of languages and has no
relationship with the tongues of Europe. The classic language of
the Koran is still regarded as the unrivalled model of literary Arabic,
but side by side with it there have developed various colloquial
dialects, differing widely among themselves, of which that spoken
in Egypt is one. In the following brief sketch references to the
classic literary language are avoided as far as possible; for that, re-
course must be had to the accepted grammars (see p. clxxxviii).
Even in Egypt there are variations in the dialects spoken, but
the following remarks apply especially to the language as spoken
in Cairo, which is generally undeistood throughout the country.
On p. xxix we give the Arabic Alphabet, with the sounds
corresponding to the different letters so far as it is possible to re-
present or describe them to the English reader. — Arab writing
runs from right to left. Long vowels are indicated by the letters
Elif, Wan, and Yei (comp. p. xxix), while short vowels are often
left out altogether or represented by special signs placed above or
below the consonants.
(^)uANTiTY AND ACCENTUATION OP VoAVELS. Vowels with a cir-
cumflex accent ('^} are long; other vowels are short. The accent
falls on the last syllable when that contains a long vowel or a short
vowel followed by two consonants. It falls on the penultimate (1)
when that is long, (2) when it ends in a single consonant, and (3)
when the preceding syllable is long or ends in a single consonant.
In all other cases the accent falls on the antepenultimate. Diph-
thongs (ai, ei, au) must be reckoned as equivalent to long vowels.
The pronunciation of short vowels varies considerably according to the
consonants adjoining as well as according to the culture of the speakers;
eg. for iiiUa (when), emteh also occurs, for yiktub (he writes), yiktib, for
'ariisa (bride), 'ar&seh.
Grammatical Hints.
Pkonouns. ana, I int7, thou (fem.)
inta, thou (masc.) hUxva, he
Language. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
ElifjAlef
%
Ba
3.
Ta
4.
Tha
5.
Gim
G.
m
7.
Kha
8.
Dal
9.
Dhal
10.
Rei
11.
Zei
12.
Siu
13.
Shin
14.
Sad
15.
Dad
IG.
Ta
17.
Za
18.
'Ain
19.
Gbaiu
20.
Fei
21.
1 Kaf
22.
Kaf
23.
Lara
24.
Mim
21").
Nun
26.
Hei
27.
Wan
28.
Yei
Arabic ALniABEX
Z
e
t
us
^^
r
o
8
b
t
t, 3
%
h
kh
d
d,z
r
z
s
sh
s
d
t
z
c
f
k
k
1
m
n
h
w
y
like the Greek soft breathing, accompanies
an initial vowel, and is not pronounced
except as a hiatus in the middle of a
word. It is also the sign for d.
(word. It 18
as in English.
originally as Ih in 'thing', but now pro-
noanced ( or *.
in Syria and Arabia like the French j (some-
times also like the English j\ bnt pro-
nounced g (hard) in Egypt.
a peculiar guttural ft, pronounced with em-
phasis at the back of the palate.
like ch in the Scotch word 'loch', or the
harsh Swiss-German cU.
as in English.
originally as Ih in 'the', but now pronounced
d or z.
like the French or Itnlian v.
as in English.
emphasized », like si in 'hi.^s'.
!both emphasized by pressing the tongue
firmly against the palate.
an emphatic 2, now pronounced like No. U
or No. 15.
a harsh and very peculiar guttural,
a guttural resembling the Northumbrian or
Parisian r.
as in English.
pronounced by Syrians and by the natives
of Lower Egypt (particularly by the
Cairenes) in the same way as Elif (see
above), but in Upper Egypt as g (No. ;')).
I as in English.
as in English. Also the sign for iJ, 6^ aud cm.
as in Knglish. Also the sign for f, a», and ti.
XXX I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. W. Arahic
hlya, she inium, ye or you
ihna, we hum, they
The possessive pronouns are indicated hy suffixes, added to
nouns, verbs, or prepositions.
my, mine = -? (after a final vowel -ya, after verbs -n?)
thine (masc.) = -dk (after a final vowel -fc) ; thine (fern.) = -ik
(after a final vowel -ki)
his = -uh (after a final vowel -li); her = -lid
OUT ::= -nd
your = -kum
their = -hum
In the case of most feminine nouns ending in a or e (eh) a t is
inserted before the suffix. When otherwise three consonants would
come together a short vowel is inserted between the stem and the
suffix. Examples: kalbl, my dog; kurs'ya, my chair; kalbina, our
dog; shagaratkum, your tree; darabnt, he struck me; misiktuhum,
thou tookest them; 'andi^ beside me, i.e. 1 have ; 'andak, beside thee,
i.e. thou hast; 'aleikum, over you.
rnTn, who? lei, why?
ei, what? iza'iy, how?
enhu, which? (masc.) Hit, which (relative)
enW, which? (fem.) ii or c7a, this (masc.) \
enhum, which? (pi.) dJ, di, this (fern.) placed after
kdin, how much? dol, these the noun and
fein, where? whither? duk-ha, that its article
min ein, whence ? duk-hamma, those
imta, when? kuU, each, all
Article. El is the definite article for all genders and all num-
bers. Before words beginning with t, d, r, s, s, sh, «, d, /, or n the
I of the article is usually assimilated with such initial consonant;
e.g. er-ruyil, the man. There is no indefinite article {el-mu'allim.,
the teacher, nm'allim, a teacher), but it is sometimes expressed by
uneducated people through the numeral wdhid, fem. wahdeh, i.e.
wnhid beit, n house.
Nouns. Most feminine nouns end in a or e (eh); el-mu'aUima,
the female teacher. The regular plural is formed by adding 7n to
the masculine stem, at to the feminine stem; el-mu' allimtn, the
teachers, el-mu' allimdt, the female teachers. But there are num-
erous irregular plurals that must be learned from the dictionary;
e.g. heit^ house, hiydt, houses. The dual ends in ein for the masculine,
tein for the feminine; kalbein, two dogs, kalbeteln, two she-dogs.
There is no regular declension of nouns. The genitive case is
expressed by the juxtaposition of the two nouns, the former always
without the article, or by the use of the auxiliary word bitd', bitu'et,
plur. hitu' ; e.g. leit el-khawdga, or el-beit bita' el-khaivdga, the
house of the European. The dative case is formed by the use of the
preposition U (to); li 'l-khawdga, to the European. The accusative
Language. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
(objective) is the same as the nominative. The vocative case is yu
khairdga, Sir I
Adjectives. Adjectives arc always placed after their nouns,
with -which they generally agree in gender; e.g. gmeina krvaiyiseh,
a heautiful garden , el-geneina el-knaiyiseh, the heautiful garden.
The verb 'to be' is omitted in the present tense; el-geneina kirai-
yi.<eh, the garden is beautiful.
Regular Verbs. The pure stem of regular verbs is seen in the
3rd person singular (masculine) of the perfect tense; kasar, he has
broken. This part is given in dictionaries instead of the infinitive
as in most other languages.
Perfect
I broke or have broken, kasarl
Thou brokest or hast -, kasart
(masc), kasarti (fem.)
He broke or has broken, ka.iar
have
She
We
Yoi - - -
They - - -
Imperatives :
Participles.
kasaret
kasarnd
kasartum
kasaru
Present anu Future
I break or shall break, aksar
Thou breakest or wilt - , tiknar
(masc), tiksar7 (fern.)
He breaks or will break, yiksar
She - - - . ^ liksar
We break or shall - , niksar
You - - will - , tiksarH
They - - - - , yihsard
Break (sing.), iksar (masc.), iksari (fem.).
Break (plur.), iksaru.
Pres. Breaking, kanr; Perf. Broken, maksiir.
So also: I have written, katabt I write, aktub
kataht, kalaht'i tiktub, lUclubt
katab, etc. yiktub, etc.
In the case of most verbs other tenses and moods are indicated
by prefixing or interpolating letters; e.g. kasar, he has broken, m-
kasar, he has been broken.
For irregular verbs the grammar (comp. p. clxxxviii) must be
consulted.
To express a negative with verbs the separable form ynn . . . sh(i)
is used, the verb being inserted in the middle (comp. Fr. ne . . . pas);
e.g. mudarabah, he did not strike.
Numerals.
1(5) — wCihid^iQxa.wahdeh the first — el-auwal, fem. el-
autonleh or el-tlla
2(r)-
itnein
the second
— tdni, fem.
tuniyeh
3(n-
taldteh
the third
— tdlit.
talteh
4(f)-
■ arba'a
the fourth
— rdbe'.
rab'a
5(o)-
khamseh
the fifth
— khdmis, -
khamseh
6(1)-
■ sitteh
the sixth
— sddis,
sadseh
7(v)-
■ sab'a
the seventli
— sdbe\
.sab'a
8(A)_
tamdnyeh
the eighth
— tdmin,
tamneh
9(1)-
■ tis'a
the ninth
— tdse%
tas'a
10(1.)-
- 'ashara
the tenth
— 'dshir,
'anhreh
XXXU
T. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
11 — haddshar
12 — itndshar
13 — telatdshar
14 — arbahtdshar
40 — arba'tn
50 — khamsin
60 — sittin
70 — sab'in
15 — khamastdshar 80 — tarmdnln
10 — sittdshar 90 — fts'Jn
600-
700.
800-
900.
1000
2000
suttemtyeh
sub'amlyeh
tumnemtyeh
tus^ army ell
alf
alfein,
17 — sabahtdshar 100 . — miyeh; before nonns, 3000 — telat aldf
18 — tamantdshar 200 — niitein
19 — tis'atdshar 300 — tultemtyeh
20 — 'ishrin 400 — rub'amlyeh
30 — taldttn 500 — khumsemtyeh
once — marra wahda , marra,
twice — marratein \ or r?66a
thrice — teiai marrdt
four times — ■ ar&a' marrdi
five times — khamas marrdt a fifth
six times — sittefe marrdt a sixth
seven times — sabn,' marrdt a seventh
eight times — taman marrdt an eighth
nine times — tisa' marrdt a ninth
ten times — 'ashar marrdt a tenth
Substantives following the numerals 2-10 are us^d in the plural, those
following numerals above 10 in the singular; thus: leldia kildb , 3 dogs,
but teldtin kalb, 30 dogs. Educated people generally employ the dual
form of the noun instead of the numeral 2: kalbein, 2 dogs.
[?m«. 4000 — arbaht dldf
5000 — khamast dldf
100,000 — mtt alf
1,000,000 — malyun
a half — nuss
a third — tult
a fourth — rub'
three-fonrths — talat irba'
— khums
— sudu
Stlb'
—T tumn
— tus'
— 'oshr
Arabic Vocabulary.
Above, fok.
Add, to, sad. Add a little more
(i.e. hid a little higher), %id
shivaiyeh.
Address, 'unwdn.
After, ba'd; afterwards, ba'dein.
Afternoon, 'asr.
Against, did.
Air, hawd.
All, el-kull, all people, kullen-nds
(lit. the total of the people).
Almond, loz.
Always, ddiman or tamallt.
America, Amerlka. American,
marakdni, malakdru, pi. mara-
kdn.
Anchorage, roads, mirm.
Angry, za'ldn. Do not be angry,
md tiz'alah.
Apricots, mishmish.
Arabia, Bildd el- Arab. Arabian,
rdgil 'arabl, pi. uldd el-arab.
Arabic, 'arabl. What is that called
in Arabic? ismeh ei bil-arahl?
Arable land, tin.
Arm, dird'.
Arrive, wasal. When does tlie
steamer arrive, el-wdbdr yusal
imta? Arrival, imisitl.
Ask, to, sa'al.
At, 'and.
Aunt, 'amma (paternal aunt),
khdla (maternal aunt).
Austria, Bildd en - Nimsn. Aus-
trian, nimsdiv?.
Autumn, kharif.
Awaken, to, sahhd. Awake me,
sahfunl.
Back, dahr.
Bad, battdl.
Vocabulary. 1. PKKLIMINARY INFOKMATION.
Baker, far run.
Bananas, rnoa.
Barber, hallak, mizeiyin.
Barley, »ha"ir.
Basket, kuffn, pi. kufuf.
Bath, bath-establishnieiit, ham-
mcitn.
Bazaar, see Market.
Be, to. The copula 'is' (are) is
not translated; comp. p. xxxi.
Beans, fasCdya. Broad beans, ful.
Haricot beans, Idhiyeh.
r.card, dakn. Full beard, lihyeh.
Moustache, shanab.
Beat, to, darab. Beat him, idrabuh !
Beautiful, kwaiyis or gamll.
Bed, ser'tr.
Beduiu, hedawi, pi. bidu, 'arab,
'orbdn. Beduiu sheikh, sheikh
el-'arab.
Bee, nahla, pi. nahl.
Beer, btra.
Before, kabl (time), kudddm
(place).
Behind, ward.
Below, taht.
Bench (of stone or mud), maslaba,
pi. masdtib (also used for cer-
tain kinds of tombs, p. clxviii).
Beside, 'and, gamb.
Better, ahsan, khcir.
Between, bein.
Bill, account, hitidb.
Bird, teir, pi. tiyiir. Singing-bird,
'asfur, pi. 'asdfir.
Bite, to, 'add. It (she) has bitten
me, 'addetru; it (she) will bite,
Bitter, murr. [te'udd.
Black, isivid.
Blacksmith, hadddd.
Blind, a'ma.
Blood, damm.
Blue, azrak.
Board, loh, pi. llwdh.
Boat, feluku.
Boil, to. The water is boiling, el-
maiyeh tighll. Boiled, maduk.
BvuDiiKEK's Kgypf. 7th Kdit.
Book, kitdb, yl.kulub. I'mokseller,
kutbl.
ISoot, gasma, pi. gkain.
Bottle, khdza, pi. kazdiz. Water-
bottle, kulla, pi. kulal.
Box, sanduk^ pi. sanddlk.
Boy, walad, pi. uldd.
Brandy, 'arakt
Bread, 'eish. See also Loaf.
Break, to, kasar (tians.J; inkasar
(intrans.). Broken, maksur.
Breakfast, futur.
Bride, 'arCtsa. Bridegroom, 'arh.
Bridge, kuhr1, kantara.
Bridle, ligdm.
Bring, to, gdb. Bring the eggs, gib
Broad, 'arid. [el-leid!
Brother, akh (before suffixes and
genitives akhH, as akhUnd, our
brother), pi. ikhwdn.
Brown, asmar or ahmar.
Bucket, gardal or satl^ pi. garddil,
sutul.
Burn, to. The fire burns, en-ndr
beyula'. The sun burns me,
esh-shems (or es-sems) ylhrakni.
Bury, to, dafan. They have buried
him, dafanuh. — Burial, dafna.
Butcher, gazzdr.
Butter, zlbdeh.
Button, zirr, pi. zirdr.
Buy, to. What dost thou wish to
buy, 'duz tishtiri ei? Hast thou
bought the eggs, inta ishtareit
el-bdd? — See also p. 49.
Cab, 'arabiyeh. Cabman, 'arbugl.
He is hailed with the ex-
pression usta.
Cafe', see Coffee.
Cairo, Masr.
Calf, 'igl, pi. 'igul.
Call, to, nadah. Call the cook,
indah ll't-tabbdkh.
Call, to = to name, see Name.
Camel, gamal (masc), pi. gimdl.
Hiding camel, hegm. Camel-
driver, yammdl.
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
Candle, sham'a, pi. shama'. Can-
dlestick, sham'addn.
Cape (promontory), rds.
Care. Take care, khallt hdldk (of
the luggage, min el-afsh), u'Ci.
Carpet, siggada; busat.
Carriage, 'arabiyeh (also a railway
carriage).
Castle, kasr, pi. kusur; serdyeh,
pi. serdydt.
Cattle, bakar.
Cause, sabab.
Cave, maghdra.
Cemetery, kardfa; yabdna; mad-
fan; malcbara.
Chair, kursi, pi. kerdsi.
Change, to, mraf. Change me a
soyeiBign, usruf It gineih. Hast
thou changed the sovereign,
inta saraft el-gineih?
Cheap, rakkis, pi. rukhds.
Cheese, gibna.
Cholera, hawa el-asfar or kuleira.
Christian, nusrdm, pi. nasdra.
Cigar, sigdra afrangi; zinobya.
Cigarette, sigdra, pi. sagdyir;
cigarette paper, warak sigdra.
Class. 1st class (railway or
steamer) berimo; 2nd class,
sekondo.
Clean, nadif.
Clean, to, nadda/". Clean the room,
naddaf el-dda. I have not
cleaned the room yet, lissa md
naddaftish el-oda.
Clear, hright, safl.
Clever (skilful), shdtir.
Clothes, libs; hudum. — The Arab
costume includes: Fez, /ar&i2sA;
skull-cap, tdkiyeh; felt cap,
libdeh; head-shawl, kufftyeh;
cord for fastening the kuffiyeh,
'ukal; turban, 'imma; trousers
(wide), shirwdl; women's trou-
sers, shintiydn; cloak, 'abdyeh;
dressing-gown, kuftdn; long
Mouse, galldMyeh; girdle.
hizdm ; leathern belt, kamar;
shoe, markub; wooden shoe,
kubkdb; stocking, shurdb. —
See also Coat, Trousers.
Clumsy, ghasMm.
Coat (European man's), sitra, pi.
sitar; badleh.
Coffee, kahwa. Boy, bring a cup
of coffee, hdl fingdn kahwa, yd
icalad. — Caf(?, kahwa, Cafe-
keeper, kahwagl. Coffee-beans,
bunn; coffee-pot, hakrag.
Cognac, kunydk.
Cold, bdrid, fem. barda. Cold
(noun), bard. It is very cold
early in the morning, fis-subh
el-bardeh shedld. — To catch
cold, khad bard. — I feel cold,
ana barddn.
Collar, ydka.
Colour, Ion, pi. alwdn. Coloured
mulauivin.
Come, to. I came (perf.), geit; he
came, ga; she came, gat; we
came, geind; they came, gd or
gum. (In the pres. : agi, yiyu
tig7, nigl, yigu.) Imper. : Come,
ta'dla (masc), ta'dli (fem.),
ta'dlu (plur.). Come here,
ta'dla hineh (masc).
Concerning (prep.), 'ala (with
suffixes).
Confectioner, halawdnu
Consul, konsul. Consulate, konsu-
Idto. Consular guard, Kavass,
Jcauwds.
Content, mabsut.
Convent, deir. Dervish convent,
tekklyeh.
Cook, tabbdkh.
Cook, to. Cook me a fowl, uibukh-
U farkha.
Cost, to. What does this cost,
di bikdni?
Cotton, kutn.
Country (fatherland), watan.
Cow, hakara, pi. hakardt.
Vocabulary. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
Crofodile. tim.idh.
Cnp, fingdn. pi. fanaym.
Customs, gumruk.
Cut, to, kata'.
Dagger, khangar, pi. khandger.
Dance, rak;}.
Da.rk,'itini.Da.Yk-cii\o\ncd,ghdmik.
Dates, halah. Date-palm, nafc^/<»,
pi. nakhl(dt).
Daughter, hint, pi. handt.
Day, yoni or nahdr, pi. aiydm.
Daily, kulli yom or kulli nahdr.
By day, hin-nahdr. To-day, en-
nahdr-di. Yesterday, embdreh.
Day before yesterday, auiral
embdreh. Day after to-morrow,
ba'deh bukra. — Days of the
week, see Week.
Dead, maiylt.
Deaf, atrash.
Dear, ghdll. That is very (too)
dear, di ghdll ketlr.
Deceitful, kh'dn, hardm7.
Deep, ghamlk or ghawU.
Delicate, tender, rafT.
Desert, gehel; khald. The Sahara,
es-Sahra.
Dialect, laghweh.
Diarrhoea, iahdl.
Die, to, mdt.
Difficult, m'b.
Dinner, see Evening.
Dirt, wasdkha or xvas-akh. Dirty,
loisikh.
Dismount, to, nizil. We shall
dismount here, ninzil hineh.
Dismount (pi.), inzilit!
District, bildd.
Do, to, 'amal. He will do or he
does, ya'mil. Do not do it, ma
ta 'miliish.'
Doctor, hakhn, pi. hukama.
Dog, kalb, pi. kildb.
Donkey, homdr, pl./ia/n/r. Don-
key-boy ,s/iar7imur.
Door, Gate, bdb, pi. blbdn.
Doorkeeper, Concierge, hauwdb.
Dragoman, turgumdn (seep. xxv).
Drink, to, shirib. Pres. : aihrab,
ti<hrab, etc. Drink coffee, i»'7tra/j
kahira! Why dost thou drink
nothing , 'ashshdn ei md bet-
ishrabshi hag a?
Driver, see Cabman.
Dry, ndshif or ydbis.
Duck, batta, pi. batl.
Dyer, sobbdgh.
Each (noun), kulli wdlud; feui.,
kulli rrahdeh. Each man, hull
insdn. Each town, kulli me-
Ear, widn. [dhieh.
Early, hadr'i.
Earth, ard.
East, shark. Eastern, sharkl.
Eat, to, akal. I ate or thou .itest,
kalt. I wish to eat, biddt dkul.
We wish to eat, biddind ndkul.
Eat, kul!
Egg, beida, pi. beid. Boiled eggs,
beid masldk. Baked eggs, beid
makli.
Egypt, (bildd) masr. Egyptian,
masTi.
Embankment, gisr.
Empty, fdd.7.
England, Bildd el-Inglh. Eng-
lishman, inglizt.
Enough, kifdyeh ; has.i; bizyddeh.
Entrance, dukhul.
Envelope, zarf. pi. zurdf.
Europe, Bildd el-Afrang. Euro-
pean, afrangt , pi. ferang,
0 frank.
Evening, 'ashiya; evening-meal
(i.e. dinner) 'ashd.
Eye, 'ein; the eyes (dual), el-
'einein. My eyes, 'eineiya. Eye-
drops (medicine), kaireh.
Eace, ic/s/is/i.
Faithful, amln.
Fall, to. I have fallen, 10/7.47. Do
not fall, ind tCika'sh.
F.tr, ha'tJ. How far is it from here
to...V fCaddi eihu'id minhineh U?
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
Father, ab, but before suffixes
and genitives abH; e.g. abH
Hasan, father of Hassan.
Fatherland, watan.
Fear, to, khaf. Do not fear, md
tekhaf.'ih. I was afraid of him,
khufteh minnuh.
Feather, rhha.
Fee, ugra; kireh.
Fellow, gada% pi. yid'dn.
Festival, 'id; festival of a saint,
mUlid.
Fever, himma; sikhUna.
Field, gheit.
Figs, tin.
Filter, 2/r, pi. azydr.
Find, to, lakd. I can't find Iiim,
md alkdhsh.
Fire, ndr. Conflagration, hartka.
Fish, samaka, pi. samdk.
Flag, bandeira.
Flea, barghut, pi. bardghU.
Flower, zahr, pi. a%hdr.
Fly, dubbdna, pi. diibbdn.
Fog, shdbiira.
Food, afci. Bring the dinner, g'tb
el-akl. Take the dinner away,
shU el-akl.
Foot, rigl (also Leg). The feet
(dual), er-riglein. His feet.
For (prep.), 'alashdn.
Forbidden , mamnu'. Entrance
forbidden (i.e. no admission),
ed-dukhCd inamnu\ — Forbid-
den by religion, hardm; e.g.
Wine is a thing forbidden by
God, en-neMd hardm. (A thing
permitted by religion is called
haldl.^
Foreign, gharlb.
Forget, to, nh'i. Do not forget,
md tins ash.
Fork, shoka.
Fortress, kal'a.
Fountain, sebU (a pious foun-
dation).
Fowl, farkha, pi. firdkh. In Upper
Egypt farkha means a young
pigeon. Cock, dtk, pi. diyuk;
chicken, katkut, pi. katdkit.
France, Feransa. Frenchman,
feransdwl.
Freight, nduldn.
Fresh, tdza.
Friend, habib or sahib, pi. habdib,
ashdb.
Fruit, fakha; pi. faicdkih.
Garden, geneina, pi. geneindt.
Gardener, gendim.
Garlic, t{lm.
Gate, bdb, pi. blbdn.
Gazelle, ghaidl, pi. ghuzldn.
Germany, Almdnia. German, al-
mdnt. The German language,
el-lisdn en-nimsdwi.
Gift, bakshhh (also reward).
Girl, bint, pi. bandt.
Give, to, add. She gave, adet. I
gave, adeit. He gives or will
give, yidt I give or shall give,
adt. I give thee five, adilak
khamsa. Give me the money,
hdt el-fulUs (hdt = give).
Glass, jfizdz. Drinking -glass,
kubbdyeh, pi. kubbdydt.
Go, to, rdh. Go, rdh! I went out,
ruht. Whither is he gone, hd,u-a
rdh fein? Go on, yallah. Does
this train go to Cairo, el-kalr
di rdih 'ala masr ? See Start and
Travel.
Gold, dahab. Goldsmith, gohargl.
Good, taiyib.
Goods, budd'a.
Goose, wizzeh, pi. ivizz.
Grapes, 'inab.
Gratuity, baksMsh.
Grave (tomb), turba, pi. turab.
Grease, semn.
Great, see Large.
Greece, Rdm; Bildd^ er-Rihn.
Greek, rdmi, pi. arwdm.
Green, akhdar.
Vocabulary. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
Greeting, saldm (see also p. xlv).
Gnide, to. Guide me, waddmt or
khudm. Unless thou guidest me
alone I shall give thee nothing,
tewaddini (or tdkhudni) wahd^,
walla mcL badtksheh haga.
Gun (musket), bunduklyeh.
Gunpowder, bdrild.
Hair, sha'r. A single hair, sha'ra.
Half, nusi.
Halt, ukaf or 'andak ! He halted,
wikif. We shall halt, nukaf.
See also Dismount.
Hammer, shakush.
If and,?d or yadd.The hands (dual),
el-idein. Herhands,(dej/ia. Right
hand, on the right, 'alyetmn.
Left hand, on the left, 'a</i-
"himdl.
Happen, to, see News.
Harbour, mina.
Hasten, to, istn'gil. Hasten (pi.),
Hat, burneita. [Uta'gilu !
Have (to) is expressed with the
aid of the preposition 'and or
li; e.g., I have a dog (= with
me is a dog) 'andt kalb, or Uya
kalb. See p. xxx.
Head, ras^ pi. rus.
Healthy, salhn; sdgh salhn; lai-
}iib; bis-sahha; mabsiit (mabsCit
means also contented).
Hear, to, simi'. He will hear,
yisma'. Hear (listen), isma'.'
Heavy, tekil.
Help, to, sd'id; yisd'id.
Here, hineh (heneh). Come here,
ta'dla (fem., ta'dlt) hineh. Go
away from here, rdh min hineh.
High, 'dli.
Hill, tell, pi. tulul.
Hire, ugra.
Hold, to, misik. Hold the stirrup,
imsik er-rikdb.
Home, belt, xvatan. Is the master
at home, el-khawdga gHwa?
Honest, amin.
Honey, 'a.<ial.
Horse, hosdn, pi. kheil.
Horseshoe, na'l.
Hospital, isbitdliya.
Hot, sukhn (of food, liquids, etc.),
hart (of weather). It is hot,
ed-dunya liarr.
Hotel, lokanda. — Which is the
way to the hotel? sikket el-
lokanda min ein?
Hour, sd'a, pi. sd'dt. Two hours,
sd'atein; three hours, taldteh
sd'dt. To hire (a cab) by the
hour, bis-sd'a.
House, belt, pi. biyut.
How? iza'iy? How much, kam?
For how much, bikdm? How
many hours, kdm sd'a?
Hungry, ga'dn.
Hut, 'ishsha, pi. 'ishash.
Ice, telg (also snow).
Ill, 'aiydn; martd. Illness, 'aiya;
mar ad.
Immediately, hdlan.
In, within, gdwa.
Interpreter, turgumdn.
Intoxicated, sakrdn.
Invoice, fatura.
Iron, hadid.
Island, gez7reh, pi. yezdir.
Italy, Itdlya. Italian, talydni.
Jew, yahiidi, pi. yahild.
Journey, to, safir. See Start.
Judge, kddi.
Jug, ibrik.
Key, muftdh, pi. mafdtik.
Khedive, efendind (lit. 'our lord').
Kill, to, mauwit. I have killed
him, matiwittuh. Kill him,
mauwituh.
Kindle, to, walla' . He has kindled
the Are (or kindle the fire),
walla' en-ndr.
Knife, sikkineh, pi. sttkdk'm. Pen-
knife, matwa.
Knock, to, khabbal.
Know, to, 'irif. I know him,
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
la'rafuh. I do not know thee,
md ba'rafaksh.
Lady, sitt, pL slttdt.
Lake (or pond), birkeh, pL Inrak.
Lame, a'rag.
Lamp, lamba, pi. lainbdt.
Land, barr.
Lane, hdra.
Language, lisdn; luylia.
Lantern, fdnus, pL fawdnh.
Large, kehXr; 'azlm.
Late, wakhrl. Thou art late, il -
akhkharl. Do not be late, md
tit'akhkharsh. Later, afterwards,
ba'dein.
Laugh, to, dildk. Do not latigh,
md tidhaksh.
Lay, to, lay down, to, halt. Lay
the hook there , hutt el-kitdb
hin&k. I have laid it down,
halteituh. I have not laid it
down, ma hattdtush.
Lazy, kasldn.
Lead, rusds. Lead-pencil, kalam
rusds.
Leave, to, tarak; yitruk. — Leave
me (in peace), khaUtni!
Left, shimdi. Go to the left, ruli
'ashshim,dlak.
Leg, see Foot.
Lemon, lamUna, pi. lainun.
Letter, gawdb, pi. gawdbdt. Re-
gistered, mesogal or mesokar.
Are there any letters for me,
fih gaicdbdt 'ashshdn7?
Lie, to, kldib. Thou hast lied,
inta kidlbt.
Lie down, to (to go to sleep), ralcad.
He is lying down, yurkud. Lie
down, urkud.
Light, nur, pi. anwdr. — A light
(glowing embers) for a cigarette
is asked for in a caf^ with the
word bassa or wil'a.
Light, to, nauwar.
Like. I should like, etc., see
Wish.
Little (adj.), mghaiyar. Little
(adv.), shuwaiyeh or shwaiyeh
(also too little).
Load, to (a horse). Load up,
shiddu! Have you loaded (the
pack-animals), shaddeitu?
Loaf, ragMf, pi. argMfeh.
Lock (of a door), kdlun, pi. ka~
wdVin. Padlock, fcj/?, pi. akfdl.
Loc.omotive, wdbur or bdbHr.
London, Londra.
Long, tawil.
Look for, to, see Seek.
Loosen, to, /taZi. Thou must loosen
the rein, Idzim tehiU es-seir.
Lose, to, dalyaJ. I have lost my
book, daiya'teh kUdb7. He will
lose it, yedaiya'uh.
Louse, kamla, pi. kaml.
Low, wdtL
Lower, see Below. The lower
road, et-tarik et-tahtdni.
Luggage, 'afsh. Luggage-ticket,
bolisa.
Luncheon, see Midday.
Mad, magnun. Madhouse, mu-
Malodorous, nitln. [ristdn.
Make, to, 'amal.
Man, rdgil, pi. rigdleh. Human
being, insdn, pi. nas (people) or
bent ddam (the sons of Adam).
Market or Bazaar, suk, pi. aswdk.
Marriage, marriage - feast, farah.
Mat, straw-mat, hasira, pi. husr:
Match (light), kebrlta, pi. kebrlt.
Matter, to. That matters nothing
to me (thee) , ana md-lt (inta
mdlak). What does that matter
to me, we' ana md-li? That
does not matter (I hope it does
not matter), md 'aleish.
Meat, lahm.
Medicine, daiva. (Peruvian bark,
kma; quinine, m.alh el-klna;
opium, aflUn^)
Melons. Musk-melons, shammdm.
Water-melous, battikh.
Vocabulary. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
Midday, duhr. Midday meal
(luncheon), ghadCi.
Middle, imisl.
Midnight, 7iuss el-leil.
Milk, lahan. Sweet milk, liallb or
laban hal'ib. Sour milk, laban
hdmid.
Minaret, mddna, pi. mdddin.
Minute, dahlka, pi. dakayik.
Mist, see Fog.
Mistake, ghaiat. [Linun.
Mohammedan, wuslhn, pi. mus-
Moisture, rutuba.
Money, fulus. 1 have no money,
rnCi 'andish fulds. Money-chang-
er, mrrdf.
-Month, see below.
Moon, kamar. New moon, Mini.
Full moon, bedr.
More, aklar. More than 100 pias
tres, aktar min mit kirsh. One
more, kamdn wdhid^gheir. Still
. more, kamdn.
Morning. Early morning, subh or
sabdh. Forenoon, dahd.
Mosque, garni', pi. gaxvdmi.
Mosquito, namma, pi. n&mus.
Mother, umm.
Mount (a horse), to, rikib, pres.
yirkab. We have mounted,
rikibnd.
Mountain, gebel, pi. yibdl (also a
mountain-chain).
Moustache, shanab.
Mouth, furnm.
Much, too much, very, ketir.
Name, ism, pi. asdmi. Wliat is
thy name, ismak ei? My name
Month, shahr; 2 months, shahrein; 3 months, talat uMiur. —
Instead of the Arabic names of the mouths used in Syria, the
Egyptians employ the Coptic (ancient Egyptian) names of the solar
months, which, however, are always about nine days behind the
European months. Each Coptic month has thirty days, and in
order to complete the year live or six intercalary days are added at
the end (in the beginning of September). The European names,
liowever, are gradually coming into general use.
English
January
February
March
April
May
June
European
yendyir
fehvdyif
m&res
abril
mdpo
pilnia
Coptic tiba amshir j bavamhdt
barm^deh
bashens baHiia
Ensjlish
July
August
September October
November
December
European! yUlia
1
aghostoi
sehtember
oktSber
ndf ember
disember
Coptic
ebtb misra
m
bdba
TiatUr
kiydk
The intercalary days (see above) are called aii/dy/i en-)iest.
The Moslem months form a lunar year only (comp. p. xcv). Their
names are: Moharrem, Safar, Rain' Auicil, Rain' et-Tdni, Gemdd
Auioil, Gemdd Tdru, Regeb, Sha'bdn, Ramadan (month of the fast),
Shauwdl, Dhul- Ki'deh, Dhul-Higgeh (month of the pilgrimage).
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
is Hassan, isml Hasan. What
is the name of that in Arabic,
ismeh di ei bit-'arabt?
Napkin, fiUa.
Native, ibn el-beled.
Narrow, daiyik.
Near, kuraiyib.
Necessary, lazim. It is necessary
that I seize him, Idzim amsikvh.
Unnecessary, mush Idzim.
Neighbour, gar, pi. girdn.
Neighbourhood, bilad.
Never, abadan, with the negative
of verbs, e.g. I never smoke,
ana md ashrabsh ed-dukhkhdn
dbadan (lit. I never drink
tobacco).
New, gedid.
News, khabar. What has happen-
ed, khabar ei ?
Night, leil. By night, bil-leil; mid-
night, nuss el-leil.
Nile, bahr en- NII0T sim]>]y ei-bahr.
Nilometer, mikyds.
No, Id. No, I will not. Id, mush'diiz
Qduza, if a woman speaks).
Noon, duhr.
North, northern, baharl.
Nose, mandkhir.
Not, mush or md-sh (see p. xxxi).
Nothing. There is nothing, md
fish. What dost thou wish?
Nothing (answer), biddak ei?
Walla hdga or shei.
Now, dilwakt.
Nubia, Bildd el-Bardbra.
Number, nimra.
Oasis, lodh.
Obelisk, misalla.
O'clock. What o'clock is it, es-sd'a
kdm? It is 3 o'clock, es-sd'a
taldteh. It is I/2 P^st 4, es-sd'a
arba'u nuss. It is 1/4 to 5,
es-sd'a khamseh ilia rub'.
About 8 o'clock, nahw es-sd'a
tam,dnyeh.
Often, keftr, marrdt kettr.
Oil, zeit.
Old. An old castle, kasr kadim
(or kasr 'atik). An old man,
rdgil kebir or 'agHz.
Olives, zeitHn.
On, see Concerning.
On (interjec), yallah .'
Onion, basala, pi. basal.
Only, bass.
Open, to, fatal}. Open thy box,
iftah sanddkak!
Oranges, burtukdn.
Ostrich, na'dmeh, pi. na'dm.
Otherwise, walla.
Out, outside, barra. Out (prep.),
m,in.
Out, to go. He went out, tili'. He
will go out, yitla' (with or
without barra).
Ox, tor, pi. tirdn.
Pack, to, hazam.
Pain, waga'.
Paper, warak.
Para, [adda; pi. the same.
Parasol, shemsiyeh.
Parents, wdlidein or ab u wnni
(lit. father and mother).
Passport, bassaborlo. Here is my
passport, dho el -bassaborlo
betd'i.
Pay, to, dafa'. Thou hast not yet
paid, lissa md dafa'tish. I shall
pay, 'dwiz adfa'.
Peach, khokha, pi. khokh.
Pen, risha. Penholder, kalam.
Pepper, fillil.
Perhaps, balki; yimkin.
Physician, hakim, pi. hukama.
Piastre, kirsh, pi. kurilsh.
Pig, khanzir, pi. khandzir.
Pigeon, hamdma, pi. hamdm.
Pilgrim (to Mecca), hagg , pi.
higgdg.
Pistachios, fistuk.
Place, to, see Lay.
Plate, sahn, pi. suhiin.
Please, min fadlak!
Vocabulary. I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
xli
Please, to. It does not please me,
m& yi'gibnhh.
Plums, barkHk.
Pocket, geib.
Poison, simm.
Policeman , bolls or shauwish.
Police, bolts.
Pomegranate, rumntan.
Pond (or lake), birkeh, pi. birak.
Poor, fakir, v\askin, pi. fuAara,
masdktn.
Port (harbour), mina.
Porter, bammdl or shaiyal; pi.
hammalin, shaiydUn.
Postage - stamp , warakat bu-ita,
pi. warak.
Post-office, liusta.
Pot, kidra, pi. kidar.
Poultry, firdkh'. See Fowl.
Prayer, said, f\. saldivdt. Caller
to prayer, mu'eddin.
Pretty, kwaiyis ; gamil.
Previously, kabl.
Privy, kanlf, beit er-rdha. Where
is the privy? el-kanif fein?
Promontory, rds.
Prophet, nabl or (applied to Mo-
hammed) rasdl.
Pulpit, minbar or manbar.
Put, to. Put it here, glbiih. Put it
above, tallauh. Put it below,
nazziluh. See Send, Lay.
Pyramid, hdram, pi. ahrdm.
Quarrel, khindka.
Question, su'dl.
Quick, fcatpam; as an exclamation,
yallah !
Railway, es-sikkeh el-hadid. Rail-
way station, mahatta. Station-
master, ndzir mahntta. Rail-
way-train, fcatr. Goods -train
kalr el-budd'a. Railway -car-
riage, 'arabiyeh.
Rain, natar.
Razor, mUs. [hadinn.
Ready, hddir. We are ready, ihna
Receipt (for a bill), xuasl.
Red, ahmar.
Reliable, faithful, amh%.
Religion, din.
Remain, to, fidil. How long (i. e.
how many days) wilt thou re-
main hero? tifdal hineh kdtn
yom?
Rest, to, istiraiyah. I have rested,
istiraiyalit. I wish to rest for
half-an-hour, bidd7 astiraiyah
nussi sd'a.
Revolver, fard.
Rice, ruzz.
Rich, ghani.
Ride, to. Wilt thou ride, biddak
tirkab? See also Mount.
Right, yemin. Turn to the right,
ruh 'alyemmak.
Rise, to, kdm. Rise up, kHm.
Road, see Street.
Roast, to, shawd. I have roasted
the meat, shaweit el-lahm.
Roasted, mashwi. — Roast meat,
rosto.
Robber, hardmt, pi. hardmtyeh.
Roof, sath, pi. sutHh.
Room, oda, pi. uwad.
Rope, habl, pi. hebdl.
Ruin, khardbeh, khirbeh. Ruined
temple, birbeh.
Run, to, gard. Run, igrt!
Russia, Bilnd el-Moskob. Russian
(noun or adj.), miskobi.
Saddle, sarg, pi. surdg. Pack-
saddle, barda'a , pi. barddi
Saddler, surug'i. Saddle-bag.
khurg.
Sailor, bahr7, pi. bahrhjeh. Hivcr-
boatman, mardkbl.
Salt, malh.
Sand, rami.
Satisfied, shab'dn.
Say, to, kdl. Say to him he must
come, kill luh yigi.
Scholar (savant), 'dlim, pi. 'ulamd.
School. Elementary school, kul-
tdh. Secoiidaryschool, medreseh,
xlii
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 10. Arabic
pi. maddris. — Schoolmaster,
khoga; fiki (of a kuttat).
Scissors, makass.
Scorpion, 'akraba, pi. 'akdrib.
Sea, bahr.
See, to, to look, shdf. We saw the
Khedive, shufnd efendind. Do
you not see him, md tahu-
fuhsh ?
Seek , to , dauwar. 1 have been
looking for thee all day, dau-
warteh 'aleik tCtl en-nahdr.
Send, to, to forward. Send the
luggage jOff, khud el-'afsh or
waddt el-'afih.
Serpent, ta'bdn,T^\.ta'dbin; haiyeh,
pi. haiydt.
Servant, &/ia(/(Zdm, pi. fcftaddamm.
Set, to, see Lay.
Shave, to, halak.
Sheep , kharuf (masc.) , na'ga
(fern.), ghanam (plur.).
Ship, markib, pl.marafci6. Steam-
ship, wdbur or bdbur.
Shirt, kamis.
Shoe (i.e. oriental shoe with
turned up toes), markub, pi.
mardklb .
Slioot, to, darab (/. e. to heat), if
necessary with the addition
birrusds, i.e. with the lead.
Short, kusaiyar.
Show, to, warrd. Show me the
way, loarlnl es-sikkeh.
Shut, to, kafal. Shut the door,
ikp.1 el-bdb. The door is shut,
el-bdb makful.
Silent, to be, sikit. Be silent,
Silk, harir. [uskut.
Silver, fadda.
Sing, to, ghannd. He wiU sing,
yeghanni. Sing, ghanru.
Singly (one after the other), wdhid
wdhid (masc.) ; wahdeh wahdeh
(fein.).
Sir, khawdga (for Europeans) or
efendi (for Orientals).
Sister, ukht, pi. ukhivdt.
Sit, to, ka'ad. Sit (take a seat),
uk'ud.
Sky, samd.
Sleep, to, nam. 1 slept, nimt. He
sleeps, binCim. Sleep (imperat.
pi.), ndinu ! I cannot sleep, md
bakdarsh andm. To go to sleep,
see Lie down.
Slippers, bantuflt
Slowly. Go slowly , xhwaiyeh
shwaiyeh, or 'ala mahlak.
Small, sughaiyar.
Smoketobacco,to,«/im6(lit. drink)
ed-dukhkhdn. Comp. Never.
Snow, ice, telg.
So, kideh.
Soap, sdbun.
Sofa, diwdn.
Soldier, 'askarl, pi. 'askariyeh.
Soldiery, 'askar.
Son, ibn or ivalad, pi. iddd.
Sort, gins. Give me some of this
sort, iddmi min el-ginseh di.
Soup, shurba.
Sotir, hdmid.
South, southern, kibli.
Speak, to, itkalUm. Dost thou
speak Arabic, titkaUim 'arabi?
Spoon, ma'laka, pi. ma'dlik.
Spring (of water), 'ain, pi. 'iyun.
Spring (season), rabV.
Square (in a town), middn.
Star, nigmeh, pi. nugum. Falling
star, nigmeh zdrik.
Start (on a journey), to, sdfir.
When will you start, tesdfiru.
imta? We will start to-morrow
morning, nesdfir bukra hadr'i
(at sunrise, ma'ash-shems; an
hour before sunrise, sd'a kabl
esh-shems). When does the
steamer start, el-bdbur yesdfir
Stay, to, see Remain. [imtay
Ste&mhoa,t,bdburel-bahrov wdbur
el-bahr. El-bahr is frequently
omitted.
Vocabulary. 1. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
xliii
Stick, 'asdya, pi. 'asdydt.
Still. Still more, kamdn. Still
another, kamdn trdhid, (/heir.
Stirrup, rikdb, pi. rikdbdt.
Stone, hagar, pi. hegdra. Stone
(of a fruit), nakdya.
Stop, to, see Halt.
Straight on, dughri.
Street or road, tarik ; derb, darb ;
sikkeh. Main street (of a town)
shdri' (comp. p. 35 ).
Strike, to, see Heat.
Strong, shedld (also violent).
Stupid, haVid. See Clumsy.
Sugar, sukkar. Coffee with sugar,
kahwa bis-sukkar. Coffee with-
out sugar, kahiva mingheir suk-
Summer, self. [kar or sddeh.
Sun, shems^OT sems). Sunrise, tuliV
e.ih-shems. Sunset, maghreb.
Sunstroke: he has had a sun-
stroke, esh-shems darbetuh.
Sunshade, shems^yeh.
Sweep out, to, kanas. I have swept
out the room, kanad el-oda.
Sweep the loom^uknus el-6da.
Sweet, helu.
Syria, Esh-Shdm. Syrian (noun
or adj.), shdm'i.
Table, sufra; larabeiza.
Tailor, khaiydt.
Take, to, khad. Take, khud! He
takes or will take, ydkhud.
Take away, to, shdl. Take it away
(or up), sMluh I
Taste, to. Taste tlie soup, duk
esh-shurba.
Tea, shdy.
Teacher, mu'allim. See also
Schoolmaster.
Telegraph, teleghrdf (also tele-
gram). Telegrapli-wire, aUk.
Telegraph-offlcial, t eleghrdfgl .
I wish to telegraph , ana hiddi
adrab teleghrdf.
Telescope, nadddra.
Temple-ruin, birbeh.
Tent, kheima, pi. khiyam. Tent-
pole, 'amdd. Tent-peg, xi'atad.
Thanks, thank yon, kattarkheirak.
There, hindk. There he is, dhu !
There she is, dhi! Is there any
bread there, fth 'evsh? Tli:;re
is none, md fluh.
Thing, /tdjfa, s^hei.
Thirsty, 'atshdn.
Ticket, tezkereh, pi. lazdker.
Tie, to, rabat. I have tied, rabatt.
Tie it, urbutuh! He (it) is tied
(on), marbut.
Time, loaJct. See O'clock and Hour.
Tired, ta'bdn.
Tobacco, dukhkhdn. Water-pipe,
shisheh. See Smoke.
To-day, en-nahdr-di (na/tar=day).
To-morrow, bukra.
Tongue, lisdn.
Too much, very, kel7r. Too little,
shuwaiyeh or shwahjeh.
Tooth, sinn, pi. isndn.
Towel, futd (also table-napkin).
Town, medtneh, pi. mudun.
Quarter of a town, hdra.
Travel (to) is expressed by tlie
word for go, with the addition
of b'd-arab7yeh, by carriage;
bil-feluka, by boat; bU-m:irkib,
by ship, etc.
Travelling-bag, see Box, Saddle-
bag.
Tree, shagara, pi. ashgdr (also
shrub).
Trousers (European), bantalun.
True, saMh. [See Clothes.
Turkey, Turkhja, Turk, Turkish,
Ugly, wihish. [turM.
Uncle, amm (paternal); /i/tdi (ma-
ternal).
Understand, to, fihim. I have
understood thee, fihimlak. I do
not understand, mdnlsh fdhim.
Untrutliful, kadddb.
Upper. The upper route, et-tarlk
el-fokdnl.
xliv
I. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. lU. Arabic
Use, to be of, nafn'. It is no use,
ma yinfa'sh.
Vainly, in vain, baldsh.
Valley, tvddt (wddi).
Very, ketlr; kawt; khalis.
Village, beled, pi. bildd. Village
teadman, sheikh el-beled.
Vinegar, khall.
Violent, shedid.
Visit, ziydra.
Wages , ugra , kireh. Monthly
wages, shahrhjeh, mdhlyeh.
Wait, to, islannd. Wait a little,
istannd shxuaiyeh. Why didst
thou not wait, 'ashshdn ei md
stanneitsh?
Waiter, siifragl.
War, harb.
Wash, to, (jhaaal. I wisii to wash
ray hands, biddl aghsil ideiya.
Wash my clothes, ighsilhudujm.
The washing, ghasU. How much
does the washing cost, taman
el -gha.nl kdm? Washerman,
ghassdl. Washerwoman, ghas-
AVatch, sd'a, pi. sd'dt. [sdla.
Watchmaker, sd'dtl.
Watchman, ghaftr, pi. ghufara.
Water, maiyeh. Is there any water
here? flh maiyeh hineh?
Water-closet, sec Privy.
Weak, da'tf.
Weather, hawd (also atmosphere
and wind).
Week, pum'a. Fortnight (2 weeks),
gum'atein. Three weeks, taldteh
gum'dt. — Days of the week:
Sun., yom el-hadd; Mon., yom
el-itnein; Tues., yom et-taldt;
Wed., yom el-arba' ; Thurs.,
yom, el-khamis; Frid., yom el-
gum a; Sa.t., yom, es-sabt. Yom
(day) is frequently omitted.
Well, Mr, pi. abydr. Public
fountain, sebil.
West, gharb. Western, gharbi.
Wet, mabltll.
When, imta'i
Whence, min em.' Whence coinest
thou, inta gdi (fem., mt? jiaj/eh)
min ein ?
Where, fein? Where is he, hHwa
Whip, kurbdg; sot. [fein?
White, abyad.
Whither, fein? Whither goest
thou, inta rdih (fem., inti rdiha)
fein?
Why, lei? minshdn ei? 'alashdn
('ashshdn) ei?
Wide, ivdsi'.
Wind, hawd; rih. Hot wind,
khamdsin; samum.
Window, shibbdk, pi. shebdbik.
Wine, nebid.
Winter, shita.
Wish or to wish, talab. What dost
thou wish, talabak ei? To wisli
is also expressed by bidd, a
wish, with suffixes (p. xxx).
I -wish to go, biddi aruh. Dost
thou wish to go, biddak teruh ?
With, wtyd,, ma'. Come with me,
ta'dla wiydya.
Within, gdwa.
Without (prep.), min gheir.
Woman, mar a or hurmeh; pi.
harim. or niswdn.
Wood (substance), khashab.
Work, shughl. Work, ishtaghal.'
Write, to, katab. He will write
yiktib. Write what I tell thee,
iktib nil akullak.
Year, sana. Two years, sanatein.
Three years, taldteh sinm. This
year, es-sand-di. Last year,
'dmenauwil.
Yellow, asfar.
Yes, a'iwa. Certainly, na'am.
Yesterday, embdreh.
Yet, lissa. He has not yet arrived,
lissa md gdsh.
Young, sughaiyar.
Vocabulary. I. PRELIMINARY INFOliMATloN. xlv
Salutations and Phrases. Health (peacej te with you. Es-
saldmu 'aleikum. Answer : And with you be peace and God's mercy
and blessing. V 'aleikum es-salam warahmet Allah wabarakdtuh.
These greetings are used by Moslems to each other. A Moslem greets
a Christian with — Thy day be happy. Nahdrak sa'td. Answer : Thy
day be happy and blessed. Nahdrak sa'td wemubdrak (umbdrak).
Thy day be white as milk. Nahdrak leben.
Good morning. Sabdhkum bil-klteir, ot sabdh el-khelr. Answer:
God grant yon a good morning. Allah yisabbehkum bil-kheir.
Good evening. Mesdkiun bil-kheir, or meslkum bil-klieir. Answer :
God vouchsafe you a good evening. Allah yiniesslkum bil-kheir; or
messdkum Alldh bil-kheir. — May thy night be happy. Leiltfk
sa'tdeh. Answer: Leiltak sa'ideh wemubdraka (xfumharka).
On visiting or meeting a person , the first question after the
usual salutations is : How is thy health ? Iza'iyak, or keif hdlak (keif
keifak), or eish hdlak ? Thanks are first expressed for the inquiry :
God bless thee ; God preserve thee. Alldh yibdrek fik ; Alldhyihfazak
Then follows the answer : Well, thank God. El-hamdu lilldh. — Be-
duins and peasants sometimes ask the same question a dozen times.
After a person has drunk it is usual for his friends to raise
their hands to their heads and say : May it agree with thee, sir.
HanVan, yd sidi. Answer: God grant it may agree with thee.
Alldh yehanntk.
On handing anything to a person : Take it. Khud. Answer :
God increase thy goods. Kattar Alldh kheirak, or kattar kheirak.
Reply: And thy goods also. Ukheirak.
On leaving: In God's care ! 'Alallnh! or Ft amuni Hldh ! Or,
Now proceed with us. Yallah bina. To a person who is about to
start on a journey : Peace be with thee. Ma' as-saldma. Answer:
May God protect thee. Alldh yisallimak.
On the route: Welcome. Ahlan tea sahlan, or marhaba. Answer:
Twice welcome. Marhabteirt.
I beg you (to enter, to eat, to take). Tafaddal (tefaddul,
itfaddal); fem. tafaddali (itfaddali); pi. tafaddalu (lefaddalu,
itfaddalil). — Wilt thou not join us (in eating)? Bismilldh (liter-
ally 'in God's name'). Answer: May it agree with you, Bil-hand.
Take care; beware. C'd; fem. ^'i.
I am under thy protection ; save me. Fl'ardak. — My house is
thy house. Beitt beitak. — If thou pleasest. J'rnil ma'riif.
What God pleases ('happens', understood). Mushalldit (an ex-
clamation of surprise). — As God pleases, hishalldh. — By God.
Walldh, or walldhi. — By thy head. Wahydt rdsak. — By the life
of the prophet. Wahydt en-nab1. — By the life of thy father. Wahydt
(( bilk. — Heavens I Yd saldm .'
xlvi
II. Geographical and Political Notes.
a. Area and Subdivisions of Egypt, i
By Captain H. G. Lyons.
Egypt proper, the country between the mouth of the Nile and
the First Cataract, is a small region with well-defined natural bound-
aries on three sides. On the N, is the Mediterranean Sea, on the E.
the Arabian Desert and the Red Sea, and on the W. the Libyan Des-
ert. The S. boundary is not marked by any natural feature, and has
therefore at all ages been liable to alteration. Its fluctuations to the
N. and S. form a kind of standard of the political power of Egypt,
and the causes of the variations involve a great part of Egyptian
history from the most ancient times down to the present day.
When Mohammed Ali, the founder of the modern vassal king-
dom of Egypt (comp. pp. cxx at seq.), died in 1849, he bequeathed
to his successor a power extending far to the S. of the First Cataract
and including not only the Nubian Valley of the Nile, with the Nu-
bian desert-regions, but also the so-called Egyptian Sudan (Bilad
es-Sudan, 'land of the blacks'), consisting of the districts of Taka,
Sennar, and Kordofan. The Khedive Isma'il (p. cxxii) pushed his
boundaries towards the S. until they comprised the whole course of
the White Nile and the greater part of the basin of the Bahr el-
Ohazdl^ and finally extended to about 2° N. latitude. But the rebellion
of the Arab tribes that broke out in 1883 under the Mahdi (p. cxxiv)
utterly destroyed the new Egyptian power on the White Nile and
caused the frontier to be withdrawn to Wadi Haifa. The cam-
paigns of 1896-98 and the capture of Omdurman (p. cxxv), how-
ever, finally united the Sudan with Egypt, though under totally
altered conditions. Thus Egypt strictly so called now includes the
valley of the Nile up to a point 27 M. to the N. of Wadl Haifa, the
desert-strip along the Red Sea, the coast to the W. of Alexandria
as far as the Gulf of Solum, the Libyan Desert with the five Oases,
the greater part of the Sinai Peninsula, and the region of El-'Arish
(comp. Baedekers Palestine). Its extreme length is 640 M. (N. lat.
3i°6'to22^), its breadth 596 M. (E. long.25°2' to 34"56'), and its
area, inclusive of the deserts, ca. 400,000 sq. M. The area of
Egypt proper, excluding the deserts, the oases, and the districts of
El-'Arish, Sinai, Maryut, Mirsa Matruh, Ed-Daba', and Koseir, is
about 12,000 sq. M. The Sudan, which begins on the Nile a little
to the N. of Wadi Haifa and on the Red Sea at 22° N. lat., is under
a special Anglo-Egyptian administration (comp. p. 415).
From the earliest times Egypt has been divided into two parts
of very unequal size, known as Lower and Upper Egypt. The
boundary between these is still, as in antiquity, to the S. of Cairo.
t Comp. the Map after the Index. — Further details on this subject
are contained in a handy form in the Egyptian Government Almanac
(comp. p. xcv).
II. GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES. xlvii
Upper Egypt, known as Es-Sa'id, extends nominally to the First
Cataract only, but now embraces in a political sense most of Lower
Nubia (comp. p. 384). Politically Egypt is now divided into fourteen
Peovinces or MMlrlijeh. The provinces of Lower Egypt are : (1 )
KalyuMyeh (Qaliubia), at the head of the Delta, with Benha as its
capital; (2) Sharktyeh (Sharqia), i.e. 'the eastern', with Zakazik as
its capital; (3) i>«fca/iiZi/e/i (Daqahlia), with Mansura as its capi-
tal; (4) Menufiyeh (Menulia), with Shibin el-K6m as its capital;
(5) Qharbtyeh (Gharbia), i.e. 'the western', with Tanta as its capi-
tal; (6) Beheireh (BehehsL), i.e. 'of the lake', with Damanhur as its
capital. The last includes the oasis of Siweh. The following live
governorates are presided over by governors (Mohafez) of their
own, and are independent of the provincial administration : Cairo,
Alexandria, Port Sa'id, Isma'iliyeh, and Suez. Sinai and El-'Arish
are administered by the War Office. The eight Upper Egyptian
provinces are those of Qizeh (Giza), JSeTOSue?/ (Beni Suef), FaiyCim
(Fayum), Minyeh (Minia ; with the oases of Bahriyeh and Fardfru),
Assidt (with the oases of DCtkhleh and KlidrgeK), Girgeh (Girga j capi-
tal, Sohag), Keneh (Qena), and Assudn (Aswan).
The chief official in every province is the Mddir or Governor.
Each mudir is assisted by a sub-mudir, a commandant of police, a
sanitary inspector, and an engineer (for irrigation and buildings).
The interior economy and the financial procedure are subject to in-
vestigation by European inspectors from the Ministries of the In-
terior and Finance, while others from the Ministry of Public Works
and the Health Department control the technical work. The 14 pro-
vinces are subdivided into 84 districts, called Markaz, the chief
officials of which (Ma'mur) are directly subordinate to the mudir
and have their official residence in the more important towns. The
markaz, in their turn, are divided into Ndhiyeh, or communes, which
include, besides the chief village, hamlets, settlements of agricul-
tural labourers ('Ezbeh), and landed estates (Ab'adlyeh). The 'Om-
deh, or chief magistrate of the commune, is directly responsible to
the ma'mur. In the larger communes the 'omdeh is assisted by the
Sheikh el-Beled, or mayor. The governorates are divided into quar-
ters (Kism), each of which has its ma'mur.
According to the census of 1907 the Population of Egypt proper
was 11,287,359, of whom 10,903,677 were settled natives, 97,381
were Beduins, and 286,301 were foreigners (147,220 Europeans
including 20,653 British). The numbers of males and females were
approximately equal. The settled population was distributed in
2 large cities (Cairo and Alexandria), 43 other towns with upwards
of 10,000 inhab., and 3580 villages. The above figures show a po-
pulation of 940 per sq. M. for Egypt proper, a density unequalled
by any country in Europe (England and Wales 619, New York
State 191, Saxony 830 per sq. M.). The total populaiton in 1897
was 9,784,405, in 1882 it was 0,831,131.
xlviii II. GEOGRAPJIICAL AND
b. Origin and Present Condition of the Egyptians.
By Professor G. Schwein/urlh.
For thousands of years the banks of the Nile have been occupied
by the Egyptians. Notwithstanding the interminable series of
immigrations and other changes affecting the character of the
inhabitants, the Egyptian type has always predominated with mar-
vellous uniformity. As Egypt is said to be the 'gift of the Nile', so
has the character of its inhabitants been apparently moulded by the
influences of that river. No country in the world is so dependent
on a river which traverses it as Egypt, and no river presents physical
characteristics so exceptional as the Nile; so, too, there exists no race
of people which possesses so marked and unchanging an individual-
ity as the Egyptians. It is therefore most probable that this unvary-
ing type is the product of the soil itself, and that the character cf
the peoples who settled at different periods on the bank of the Nile,
whatever it may originally have been, has in due course of time
been moulded to the same constant form by the mysterious in-
fluences of the river. In all countries, indeed, national characteris-
tics are justly regarded as the natural outcome of soil and climate,
and of this connection no country affords so strong an illustration
as Egypt, with its sharply defined boundaries of sea and desert, and
in its complete isolation from the rest of the world. This fidelity to
type, which doubtless many other oriental races share with the
Egyptians, is by no means in accordance with common theories as
to the decline and degeneration of the Orient. These races seem to
possess an innate capacity that is absent from Western nations —
the capacity, namely, of permanently preserving the original type.
In Egypt this tendency may be partly assisted by the universal
practice of early marriages, by which the succession of generations
is accelerated, while many children are born of parents still un-
affected by any physical deterioration. Although the country has
been at various periods overrun by Hyksos, Ethiopians, Assyrians,
Persians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Turks, and although the people
were tyrannized over, ill-treated, and in most cases compelled to in-
termarry with these foreigners, the Egyptians have for thousands of
years retained the same unvarying physical types, while their char-
acter has been but slightly modified by the introduction of Christianity
and Mohammedanism. If it now be borne in mind that these for-
eigners generally invaded the country in the form of an army, that
they formed but a small body compared with the bulk of the popula-
tion, and that they either married native women or sought wives
in other countries, it is obvious that they would either continue to
exist for a time as a foreign caste, a condition apparently repugnant
to nature and necessarily transient, or that they would gradually
succumb to the never-failing influences of the soil and be absorbed
in the great mass of the aboriginal inhabitants. An excellent il-
lustration of this process is afforded by the Arabian iuTasion, with
POLITICAL NOTES. xlix
the cireunistaiices and results of wliicli wc are better acquainted
than with the history of the other foreign immigrations; for, dis-
regarding the Beduin trihes, ■who are entirely distinct from the
Egyptian population, v'e now meet with genuine Arabs in the towns
only, where the merchants, pilgrims, and other members of that
people form a class entirely distinct from the natives, and one that
is maintained only by means of reinforcements from abroad. Another
proof of the transforming influences of the Egyptian climate is
afforded by the uniform character of the domestic animals. The
oxen, in particular, though they have often been repeatedly ex-
terminated in a single century by murrain, and have been succeeded
by foreign races from every quarter of the globe, almost invariably
after a few generations assume the well-known Egyptian type witli
whicli the representations on the ancient temples render us so familiar.
There have been many hypotheses as to the origin of the Egyp-
tians. In all probability the rise and development of that people
followed essentially the same course as those of other great races,
whose geographical positions exposed them to a similar variety of
external inflnences. In the course of its history this people attained
a characteristic development of its own; but we have to inquire as
to the nature of the original prehistoric stock. In classical antiquity
the Egyptians were considered to be of African origin, and Diodorus
has given expression to this view by quoting a tradition of the
Ethiopians, according to which the Egyptians were originally an
Ethiopian colony, just as their country itself is a product of the
Nile. But the Greeks and Romans knew little of Central Africa,
and, more especially, they were acquainted with none of the peoples
of the Nile district except those whom we now distinguish as Hami-
tic (proto-Semitic). The term Hamites or Hamitic races is used to
distinguish that great ethnographic group of peoples which has, in
the <ourse of ages, altered the population of half Africa, ever press-
ing from E. to W. and driving out the primaeval population before
them. The final stage of this migration, which, like those of the
horse and camel, falls partly within the historic period, was reached
when the Hamites came in contact with the later Semitic races.
When these Hamitic peoples began to find their way from Asia
across the Red Sea into Africa, they no doubt pushed down the
Nile, after subduing the primaval inhabitants of the river-valley.
The Ethiopian tradition thus agrees with the Biblical, which de-
scribes Ham as the father of Mizraim and Cush — names under
which the ancient Hebrews used to personify Egypt and Ethiopia.
The civilization and culture of the Egyptians have been suc-
cessively affected by every race that has played a prominent part
in W. Asia, from the ancient Babylonians to the modern Arabs and
Turks. Maspero argues for a gradual infiltration from Libya also
in the earlier epochs. But the Libyans were themselves Hamitic,
no less than the Ethiopians who overtook them in their advance
Basdgkkb's Egypt. 7th Edit. d
1 11. GEOGJIAPHIOAL AND h. Modern Egyptians:
westwards. Beceut philologists (such as Reiiilsch) classify the Hani-
Ites from their linguistic characteristics as the prototype of the
Semitic family, distinguished by more elementary, more primitive
forms. It is universally assumed that both Hamites and Semites
had their original home in Asia. At what period each hived off
from the original common stock is veiled in prehistoric darkness.
But it is clear that Asiatic influences most have affected the dwellers
on the Nile even before the introduction of the art of tillage, while
the valley of the Nile iu Egypt was still populated by pastoral
races — a conclusion based mainly on the origin of the domesticated
ox and of several other domestic animals. On the other hand the
original ancestor of the Egyptian domesticated ass was peculiar to
Africa, dwelling among the mountains and steppe sto the S. of
Egypt. In this fact we find an indication of the route followed by
the Hamitic invaders of Egypt.
The beginning of anything like a regular political development
in Egypt cannot be dated before the introduction of agriculture ;
most probably it began with the cultivation of wheat and barley,
grains of which have been found among the remains in the most
ancient Egyptian tombs, dating from before the earliest dynasty.
The origin of botli these cereals is indisputably Asiatic; their first
home was in the valley of the Euphrates or in some more central
region of the continent. Besides these grains the funeral offerings
under the earliest dynasties included also linen, wine, and the pro-
duce of other cultivated plants, originally indigenous to W. Asia.
Some of the earliest ideal conceptions of the proto-Egyptians
must likewise have been drawn from Asiatic sources, which, however,
in this case are to be looked for farther to the S. in that continent.
Not only the use of incense but also the sycamore and the persea,
the two sacred trees in the Egyptian Pantheon, were known in
Egypt from the very earliest period. lUit all these plants are ex-
clusively indigenous to the mountainous regions of S. Arabia and
the adjoining coasts of the Bed Sea; they could have been derived
from no other source. The use of incense is as ancient as the most
ancient known religion. The tree called by the Greeks persea, and
known to modern botanists as mimusops, flourished in the gardens
of ancient Egypt ; and the sycamore, which is now nowhere found
in a wild state outside the regions mentioned above, is to be seen
all over Egypt at the present day.
To sum up. The condition of the prehistoric dwellers in the
Egyptian Nile valley may be described as the result of a union be-
tween the autochthonous inhabitants and the Hamitic tribes which,
advancing from the Red Sea, entered the country from regions to
the S. or S.E. of Upper Egypt. After along interval of time' the
ancient dwellers on the Nile were subjected to new modifications,
arising from the predatory attacks of a race that had attained a higher
level of civilization. This latter race must have started from the
Feltohin. POLITICAL NOTES. li
valley of tlie Euphrates, otherwise it would not have been able to
introduce into Egypt, as it did, the knowledge of wheat and barley
and the art of cultivating them with the plough, the knowledge of
copper, bronze, and various metallurgical processes, and perhaps
also a religious system of; its own and even the art of writing. The
net result of the whole historical process was Egyptian civilization
as it existed under the Pliaraohs. +
The MonKRN Egyptians. The population of Egypt is composed
of the following ten different elements.
[1). The Fkllahin (felldk'in, sing. fellQh), the 'tillers' or 'pea-
sants', with whom must be reckoned the Coptic peasants of Upper
Egypt, form the bulk of the population and may be regarded as the
sinews of the national strength. They are generally slightly above
the middle height; their bones, and par^icnlarly their skulls, are
strong and massive; and their wrists and ankles are powerful and
somewhat clumsy. ln\all these respects the fellahin, like their do-
mestic animals, contrast strongly with the inhabitants of the desert.
Notwithstanding this largeness of frame, however, the fellah never
grows fat. The women and girls are particularly remarkable for
their slender build. The men generally keep their heads shaved,
but the hair of the soldiers and the long tresses of the girls, though
always black and thick, is smooth and wavy, seldom curly. The hair
on the faces of the men is scantier and more curly.
The chief peculiarity of the Egyptians is the remarkable close-
ness of their eyelashes on both lids, forming a dense, double, black
fringe, which gives so animated ari expression to their almond-
shaped eyes. The very ancient and still existing custom of blacken-
ing the edges of the eyelids with antimony ('koM'), which is said
to serve a sanitary purpose, contributes to enhance this natural
expression. The eyebrows are always straight and smooth , never
bushy. The mouth is wide and thick-lipped, and very different
from that of the Beduin or inhabitant of the oases. The high cheek-
bones, the receding forehead, the lowness of the bridge of the nose,
which is always distinctly separated from the forehead, and the
flatness of the nose itself, are the chief characteristics of the
Egyptian skull; but, as the jaws project less than those of most
of the other African coloured races, it has been assumed that the
skull is Asiatic and not African in shape. The Egyptian peasantry
liave a much darker complexion than their compatriots in the towns,
and their colour deepens as we proceed southwards , from the pale
brown of the inhabitant of the Delta to the dark bronze hue of the
Upper Egyptians. There is, however, a difference between the tint
of the Nubians and that of the Upper Egyptians, even where they
live in close contiguity, the former being more of a reddish-brown.
•}■ Prnf. G. Elliot Smith's study of the earliest remains has, however, led
him to essentially diflereut views on the origia of the Proto-Egyptians.
Comp. his hook mentioned on p. clxxxviii.
d*
lii II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND h. Modern Egyptians. •
In the ancient representations women are painted yellow and men
red, merely because the former were paler owing to their indoor life,
while the men were browned by labouring in the open air(Virchow).
The dwelling of the fellah is of a miserably poor description,
consisting generally of four low walls formed of crude bricks of
Nile mud, and thatched with a roof of durra straw, on which the
poultry roost. In the interior are a few mats, a sheepskin, several
baskets made of matting, a copper kettle, and a few earthenware
pots and wooden dishes. But the railway-traveller, passing througli
the Delta for the first time, must not suppose that the miserable,
ruinous huts that meet his eye are typical of all peasants' dwellings
in Egypt. In Central and Upper Egypt he will obtain a much more
favourable impression. The fact is, that beneath an ICgyptian sky,
houses are not of the same jiaramoUnt importance as in more northern
regions, all that is wanted being shelter for the night. The day is
spent in the open air, on the court in front of the hut, shaded by
acacia trees, among whose branches the pigeons coo. Here the fellah
spends his 'keif or leisure, chatting with his neighbours and spin-
ning wool from a spindle that he turns in his hand.
The poorer peasant's mode of life is frugal in the extreme.
His meals may be summarily characterized as 'short, scant, and
bad'. The staple of his food consists of a peculiar kind of bread
made of sorghum flour in Upper Egypt, or of maize in the Delta,
wheaten bread being eaten by the wealthier only. This poor kind
of bread often has a greenish colour, owing to an admixture of flour
made from the kernels of Fcenum Graecum (see below). Next in
importance in the bill of fare are broad beans (ful). For supper,
however, even the poorest cause a hot repast to be prepared. This
usually consists of a highly salted sauce made of onions and butter,
or in tlie poorer houses of onions and linseed or sesame oil. Into
this sauce, which in summer acquires a gelatinous consistency by
the addition of the universal bamyas (the capsular fnut of the
Hibiscus) and various herbs, each member of the family dips pieces
of bread held in the fingers. Both in town and country, goats',
sheep's, or buffaloes' milk also forms a daily article of food, but
always in a sour condition or half converted into cheese, and in
very moderate quantities only. In the height of summer the con-
sumption of fruit of the cucumber and pumpkin species, which the
land yields in abundance, is enormous. In spring large quantities
of lettuce, radish-leaves, and similar green vegetables are eaten ;
and the lower classes consume, for medical purposes during .January
and February, considerable amounts of Fcenum Grjecum, a clover-like
plant with a somewhat disagreeable odour (p.lxxiv). In the month
of Ramadan alone (p. xcvi), when a rigorous fast is observed during
the day, and on the three days of the great Bairam festival (Kurban
Beiram), even the poorest indulge in meat, and it is customary to
distribute that rare luxury to beggars at these seasons.
FeUahin. POLITICAL NOTES. liii
The dress of tbe Egyptian peasant calLs I'or little remark, espe-
cially as he usually works in the fields divested of everything except
a scanty apron. The chief articles of his wardrobe at other times
are an indigo-dyed cotton shirt (kamts), a pair of short and wide cotton
breeches, a kind of cloak of brown, home-spun goats' wool ('abdyeh),
ox simply a blanket of sheep's wool (hirdm), and lastly a close-
fitting felt skull-cap (libdeh). He is generally barefooted, but occa-
sionally wears pointed red (marktih) or broad yellow shoes (balgha).
The sheikhs and wealthier peasants wear wide, black woollen cloaks
and the thick red 'Tunisian' fez (tarhush) with a blue silk tassel,
round which they coil a turban (^imma; usually white). They usu-
ally carry a long and thick stick (ndbut), made of ash imported from
(Jaramania. All watchmen carry similar sticks as a badge of office.
The sole wealth of Egypt is derived from its agriculture, and to
tbe fellahin alone is committed the important task of tilling the soil.
They are, indeed, neither fitted nor inclined for other work, a circum-
stance which proves how completely the settled character of the
ancient Egyptians has predominated over the restless Arabian blood,
which has been largely infused into the native population ever since
the valley of the Nile was conquered by the armies of Islam. The
ancient Egyptian racial type has been preserved in extraordinary
purity in many fellah families, especially in Upper Egypt. This is
particularly evident in the case of the children and women, whose
features are not concealed and distorted by veils (which the ancient
Egyptians despised). Even among the Nubians (p. Ix), between
the first and second cataracts, faces occur that might almost lead us
to think that some of the pictures of the period of the old Pharaohs
had come to life and stood before us in tlesh and blood. In Lower
Egypt, and especially in the Delta, the Semitic type has sometimes
prevailed over the African in consequence of the steady stream of
Arab immigration that has now been flowing formorethan atliousand
years. The modern I'^gyptians, moreover, resemble the ancient in
character and in the lot to which they are condemned. In ancient
times tlie fellah, pressed into the service of the priests and the
jiriiices, was compelled to yield up to them the fruits of his toil,
and his position is nearly the same at the present day, save that the
names of his masters are changed, and he has obtained some relief
owing to the almost entire abolition of compulsory work.
In early life the Egyptian peasant is remarkably docile, active,
and intelligent, but at a later period this freshness and buoyancy are
crushed out of him by care and poverty and his never-ceasing task
of filling the pitcher of the Danaides. He ploughs and reaps, toils
and amasses, but he cannot with certainty regard his crops as his
own, and the hardly earned ]iiastre is too frequently wrested from
him. His character, therefore, becomes like that of a gifted child,
who has been harshly used and brought up to domestic slavery, but
at length perceives that he has been treated with injustice, and
liv II. GEOGRAPHICAL AJSD b. Modern Egyptians ;
whose amiability and intelligence are then superseded bysullenness
and obstinacy. Thus down to a few years ago, as in the time of
Ammianus Marcellinns, the fellah would often suffer the most cruel
blows in dogged silence rather than pay the taxes demanded of him.
In his own fields the fellah is an industrious labourer, and his
work is more continuous than that of the peasant of more northern
countries. He enjoys no period of repose during the winter, and the
whole of his spare time is occupied in drawing water for the irriga-
tion of the land. Notwithstanding his hard lot, however, he is an
entire stranger to any endeavour to better his condition or to im-
prove his system of farming. As soon as he has accomplished the
most nece.ssary tasks he rests and smokes, and trusts that Allah will
do the remainder of his work for him. The fellah is generally of a
peaceful disposition, kindly and helpful to his neighbour. Foreigners
can see his best side only by observing his dealings with his fellows;
for he regards strangers as merely so many convenient sources of
profit (comp. pp. xxiv, xxv).
(2). Copts (kibt, 'ibt). While we have regarded the fellahin as
genuine Egyptians in consequence of their uninterrupted occupation
of the soil, the religion of the Copts aflords us an additional guarantee
for the purity of their descent. The Copts are undoubtedly the most
direct descendants of the ancient Egyptians, there being no ground
for the assumption that their ancestors were foreign immigrants who
embraced Christianity after the conquest of the country by the
Mohammedans, while on the other hand the obstinacy with which
they defended their monophysite Christinuity for several centuries
against the inroads of the creed of Byzantium affords another
indication'of their Egyptian character. At the last census (1907) the
number of Copts in Egypt was 706, SSS."!' They are most numerous
in the towns of Upper Egypt (554,282 J, around the ancient Koptos,
at Nakadeh, Luxor, Esneh, Dendera, Girgeh, Tahta, and particularly
at Assiiit and Akhmim.
The Oolitic Patriarch is elected from their own number by the monks
of the live chief monasteries of Egypt. These are the monasteries of St.
Anthony andjSt. Paul in the eastern desert (p. 206), two in the Waii Natrun
(p. 32), and the convent of El-Meliarrak (p. 219), near Maufalut.
;Most of the Coptsthat dwell in towns are engaged in the more
refined handicrafts (as watchmakers, goldsmiths, jewellers, em-
broiderers, tailors, weavers, cabinet-makers, turners, etc.), or in
trade, or as clerks, accountants, and notaries. Their physique is
accordingly materially different from that of the fellahin and even
from that of Coptic peasants. They are generally of more delicate
frame, with small hands and feet; their necks are longer and their
skulls are higher and narrower than those of the peasantry; and,
+ The total' number of Christians in Egypt in 1S07 was 881,692, iiiclud
ing 76,953 Greek Orthodox, 57,744 Roman Catholira, 13,736 Protestants, and
27,937 Eastern Christians.
Copls. POLITICAL NOTKS. Iv
l;istly, their complexion is fairer. These diftereiices are sufficiently
accounted for by their mode of life ; for, when we compare those
Copts who are engaged in rustic pursuits , or the Coptic camel
drivers of Upper Egypt, with the fellahin, we find that the two
races are not distinguisha'ble from each otiier. 'J'his dualism of
type in bodily structure, common to all civilized lands of the South,
has been recognized also in the skeletons of the ancient mummies.
Few nations in the East embraced the Gospel more zealously
than the dwellers on the Nile. Accustomed as they had long been
to regard life as a pilgrimage to death, as a school of preparation for
another world, and weary of their motley and confused Pantheon
of divinities , whose self-seeking priesthood designedly disguised
the truth, they eagerly welcomed the simple doctrines of Christianity,
which appeared so well adapted to their condition and promised
them succour and redemption. Like Eutyches, they revered the
divine nature of the Saviour only, in which they held that every
human clement was absorbed; and when the Council of Chaleedon
in 451 sanctioned the doctrine that Christ combined a human with
a divine nature, the Egyptians with their characteristic tenacity
adhered to their old views, and formed a sect termed Eutychians, or
Monophy sites, to which the Copts of the present day, and also the
Abyssinians, still belong.
The name of the Copts is au ethnical one, being simply an Arabic cor-
ruption of the Greek name of Egyptians. The theory is now exploded that
Ihey derive their name from a certain itinerant preacher named Jacobus,
who according to JUakrizi was termed El-Eeradi'i, or 'blanket-beaver\ from
the old horse-cloth worn by him when he went about preaching. This
.lacobus promulgated the monophysite doctrine of Eutyches, which had
found its most zealous supporter in Bioscurus, a bishop of Alexandria,
who was declared a heretic and banished after the Council of Chaleedon ;
and his disciples were sometimes called Jacobites. If this name had ever
been abbreviated to Cobit or Cobt, it would probably have occurred
frequently in the writings of Jlouophysites ; but there we find no trace
of it. It is, on the other hand, quite intelligible that the word Copt,
though originally synonymous with Egyptian, should gradually have come
to denote a particular religious sect; for, at the period when the valley
of the Nile was conquered by Amr, the native Egyptians, who almost
exclusively held the monophysite creed, were chiefly distinguished by
their religion from their invaders, who brought a new religious system
from the East.
These Egyptian Christians strenuously opposed the resolutions of
the Council of Chaleedon, and thousands of them sacrificed their
lives or their welfare in the fierce and sanguinary conflicts of the
Hth century, the causes of which were imperfectly understood by
the great majority of the belligerents. The subtle dogmatic dif-
ferences which gave rise to these wars aroused such hatred among
these professors of the religion of love, that the defeated Mouophy-
sites readily welcomed the invading armies of Islam, or perhaps
even invited them to their country.
After the conquest of Egypt by the Arabs (p. 44 ) the Copts were
at first treated with lenity, and were even appointed to the highest
M II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND b. Modem Egyptians:
government oMces; but tliey were soon doomed to suffer persecutions
and privations of every description. These persecutions were mainly
due to their unbounded arrogance and their perpetual conspiracies
against their new masters, and their Mohammedan contemporaries
even attributed to them the disastrous conflagrations from j. which
the new capital of the country so frequently suffered. Their hopes
were doomed to bitter disappointment, and their national pride to
utter humiliation. Their conquerors succeeded in maintaining their
position, and though apparently at first inclined to moderation, were
at length driven by the conduct and the previous example of the
Copts themselves to persecute and oppress them to the uttermost.
In spite, however, of all these disasters a numerous community
of Copts has always existed in Egypt, a fact which is mainly to be
accounted for by the remarkable tenacity and constancy of the
Egyptian character. Owing, however, to the continual oppression
and contempt to which they have been subjected, they have de-
generated in every respect, while their character has been correspond-
ingly altered. Their divine worship will strike the traveller as
strange, and anything but edifying or elevating (comp. p. 107).
It is true that the Copt is a regular attendant at church ('keniseh'),
but his conduct while there and the amount of benefit he receives
are somewhat questionable. In the service the Coptic language, i.e.
the language of the Egyptians of the 3rd cent. A.D., is used for pray-
ing and chanting. But as the majority even of the priests themselves,
though able to read this ancient speech, do not understand it, the
Arabic translation of the prayers is given at the same time, and
the sermon is delivered in Arabic. Since the 6th cent, the doc-
trine of the Jacobites has been in a state of deathlike lethargy which
has made even the slightest attempt at further development im-
possible. In no other religious community is fasting so common as
among the Christians of Egypt and Abyssinia. They still found their
creed upon Old Testament institutions, and so show pretty clearly
that had ChristiaTiity been confined to the East it would never have
become the chief religion of the world. The Coptic church has not
even training-colleges for its ministers.
The Copts are no longer distinguished from the Arabs by their
dress. Only the priests now wear the dark blue or black turban and
the dark-coloured clothes, a costume that was originally prescribed
by their oppressors. A practised eye will frequently detect among
them the ancient Egyptian cast of features. Towards strangers the Copt
is externally obliging, and when anxious to secure their favour he not
unfrequently appeals to his Christian creed as a bond of union. Many
Copts have recently been converted to Protestantism by American mis-
sionaries, particularly in Upper Egypt, chiefly through the foundation
of good schools and the distribution of cheap Arabic Bibles. Even the
ortliodox Copts have a great reverence for the sacred volume, and it
is not uncommon to meet with members of their sect who know the
HeduiuK POLITICAL NOTES. Ivii
whole of tlie Gospels by heart. The liomau propaganda, which was
begun by Franciscans at the end of the i7th and beginning of the
18th cent., has been less successful among the Copts. There are,
however, a few small Roman Catholic communities in Upper Egypt
(atGirgeh, Akhmim, and Nakadeh), forming the 'Church of the
Catholic Copts', whose patriarch, Cyrillos II., consecrated in 189U,
is a native Copt. The present patriarch of the old Copts, at Cairo,
is likewise named Cyrillos.
(3). Bbduins. Bedu (sing, hcdawi) is the name applied to the
nomadic Arabs, and 'Arab (sing. 'Arahi) to those who immigrated
at a later period and settled in the valley of the Nile. They
both differ materially from the dwellers in towns and from the
I'ellahin. The subdivisions of the Beduiu tribes are called KabUch.
'J'hough differing greatly in origin and language, the wandering tribes
of Egypt all profess Mohammedanism. Again, while some of them
have immigrated from Arabia or Syria, partly in very ancient and
partly in modern times, and while others are supposed to be the
aboriginal inhabitants of the territories claimed by them (as the
Berbers of N. Africa and the Ethiopians and Blemmyes of Nubia),
or former dwellers on the Nile expelled from their homes by foreign
invaders, they all differ greatly from the settled Egyptian population;
and this contrast is accounted for by the radical difference between
the influences of the desert and those of the Nile valley.
According to the census of 1907 there were 635, 012 Beduins
in Egypt, of whom 537,631 were settled in towns and villages.
The Beduins may be divided into two leading groups : (1) Beduins
in the narrower sense, i.e. Arabic-speaking tribes, most of whom
have probably immigrated from Arabia or Syria, and who occupy
the deserts adjoining Central and Northern Egypt besides to a con-
siderable extent settling in the Nile valley; (2) Bega, who range
over the regions of Upper Egypt and Nubia situated between the
Nile and the lied Sea, and extending to the frontiers of the Abyssi-
nian mountains. These are the descendants of the ancient Blem-
myes (p. 386 ; their territory being known as 'Edbai'J. The two prin-
cipal races of the second group, with whom alone we have to deal
as inhabitants of Egypt, are the Bisharhi and the 'Ababdeh. They
are widely scattered in the valleys of the desert (pp. 372 et seq.),
between the tropics and the latitude of Keneh and Koseir, and lead
a poverty-stricken life with their very scanty stock of camels and
goats. Though closely resembling the other Bega tribes in appear-
ance, the 'Ababdeh (sing. 'Abadi, probably the Gebadaei of Pliny)
possess an original language of their own ( 'to-bedyawiyeh'), which,
however, they have long since exchanged for bad Arabic. They
have adopted also tlie costume of the fellahin, while the Bisharin
tend their large flocks of sheep and herds of camels in a half-naked
coiiilition, girded with a leathern apron and wrapped in a kind of cot-
ton shawl (meldya). All these 'Ethiopians' are remarkable for their
Iviii 11. GP:0GRAI'H1CAL AND h. Modern Et/yptians :
fine and almost Caucasian cast uf features, their very dark, bronze-
coloured complexion, and their luxuriant growth of hair, which they
wear loose or hanging down in numberless plaits. Their figures are
beautifully symmetrical, and more or less slender in accordance with
their means of subsistence, and their limbs are gracefully formed.
In other respects they resemlile all the other children of the desert,
as in the purity of their complexion, the peculiar thinness of their
necks, and the premature wrinkling of the skin of their faces. Com-
pared witli their bold and quarrelsome neighbours the lUsharin, the
'Ababdeh are generally gentle anil inofi'cnsive.
Besides the Bcga there arc numerous Beduins who inhabit the
steppes and deserts belonging to the region of the Nile, but beyond
the limits of Egypt, and range as far as the confines of the heathen
negro-races on the left bank of the Nile, nearly to 9° N. latitude ;
but with these we have not at present to deal. As regards the
Beduins proper of the N., their common home, the desert, seems
to have exerted a unifying effect upon races that were originally
different, and the peculiar characteristics of each have gradually
disappeared before the uniform environment of all.
There are three important Beduin tribes in the peninsula of
Mount Sinai : tlie Terdbiyin; the Tiyaha, who occupy the heart of
the peninsula, between Suez and 'Akaba; and the Sawarkeh or 12-
'Arayish, to tlie north of the latter. In Upper Egypt, besides the
'Ababdeh, the most important tribes who occupy the eastern bank of
the Nile are the Beni Wasel and the Atwani, who, however, have now
settled on both banks of the Thcban Nile valley and are gradually
blending with the fellahin, and the Ma'dzeh^ who dwell in groups
among the limestone mountains between Suez and Keneh, where
there are good pastures at places. Most of the Arabian Beduins, on
the other hand, wlio belong to Egypt, confine themselves to tlie
westernbank of the Nile. They occupy tlie whole of this side of the
river from the Faiyum as far as Abydos near Girgeh, and it is mainly
with their aid that communication is maintained with the western
oases, peopled by a totally different race, who till tlie ground and
possess no camels, being probably allied to the Berbers of Northern
Africa (one of the numerous liibyan tribes mentioned in ancient
inscriptions).
The Beduins of the North, and especially the tribe of the Vlad
'All, have inherited with comparative purity the fiery blood of the
desert-tribes, M'ho achieved such marvellous exploits under the
banner of the prophet, but the traveller will rarely come in contact
with them unless he undertakes a journey across the desert. The
Beduins who assist travellers in the ascent of the pyramids belong
to the Nagama tribe. Genuine Beduins are to be found nowhere
except in their desert home, where to a great extent they still retain
the spirit of independence, the courage, and the restlessness of their
ancestors. As in the time of Herodotus, the tent of the Beduin is
Antb Town-Dwellers. POLITICAL NOTES. lix
still his home. Where it is pitched is a matter of iudifference to
him, if only the pegs which secure it be firmly driven into the earth,
if it shelter his wife and child from the burning sunshine and the
chilly night-air, and if pasturage-ground and a spring be within
reach. At Ramleli on the coast, near Alexandria, the traveller may
see numerous Beduin families of the poorest class encamped in
their tents, where they live in the most frugal possible manner, wilji
a few miserable goats and the fowls which subsist on the rubbish in
their neighbourhood. Though professors of Islam, the Beduins of
Egypt are considerably less strict in their observances than the fel-
lahin of the valley of the Nile, who are themselves sufllciently lax,
and above all they sadly neglect the religious duty of cleanliness.
They do not observe the practice of praying five times a day, and
they are as a rule but slightly acquainted with the Koran. Kelios
of their old star-worship can still be traced among their customs.
The traveller will occasionally observe Beduins in the streets and
in the bazaars of the armourers and leather-merchants, and will be
struck with the proud and manly bearing of these bronzed children
of the desert, whose sharp, bearded features and steady gaze betoken
firmness and resolution. In Egypt the traveller need not fear their
predatory propensities.
(4). Akab Dwellers in Towns. Those Arabs witli whom the
traveller usually comes in contact in towns are shopkeepers, officials,
servants, coachmen, and donkey-attendants. These are generally
of a much more mixed origin than the fellahin. It thus happens
that the citizens of the Egyptian towns consist of persons of every
complexion from dark-brown to white, with the features of the
worshippers of Osiris or the sharp profile of the Beduins, and witli
the slender figure of the fellah or the corpulence of the Turk.
Among the lower classes intermarriage with negro-women has some-
times darkened the complexion and thickened the features of their
offspring; while the higher ranks, including many descendants of
white slaves or Turkish mothers, more nearly resemble the European
type. As the inhabitants of the towns could not be so much op-
pressed by their rulers as tl\e peasantry, we find that they exhibit
a more independent spirit, greater enterprise, and a more cheerful
disposition than the fellahin. At the same time they are not free
from the dreamy character peculiar to orientals, nor from a tinge of
the apathy of fatalism; and their indolence contrasts strongly with
the industry of their European rivals in political, scientific, artistic,
and all business ]iursuits. Of late years, however, they have begun
to occu]>y themselves with scientific studies and to produce a con-
siderable number of higher oflicials, barristers, doctors, architects,
ensincers, etc. The townspeople profess Islam , but, in their
youth particularly, they are becoming more and more lax in their
obedience to the Koran. Thus tlic custom of praying in jmblic, out-
side the house-doors and shops, is gradually falling into disuse. Like-
Ix II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND b. Modem Egyptians:
wise the European dress is superseding the oriental, though the
latter is far more picturesque and better suited to the climate. On
the whole, however, they are bigoted Mohammedans, and share
the contempt with which the fellahiu regard all other religions.
Their daily intercourse with unbelievers and their dread^jof [the
power of the Christian nations tend, however, to keep their fana-
ticism, which otherwise would be unbounded, in check, and has even
induced them sometimes to admit strangers to witness the sacred
ceremonies in their mosques.
(5). Nubians. The name Bardbra (sing. Berbcrl) is applied to
tlie Nubian inhabitants of the Nile valley between the neighbour-
hood of Assuan and the Fourth Cataract. The Egyptians and Nubians
are radically different, and the dislike between the two races is
carried to such an extent that Nubians, even in Egypt, never marry
Egyptian wives. The Nubians are inferior to the Egyptians in
industry and energy, especially in tilling the soil, and in pliysical
(and perhaps also in intellectual) vigour j and they are more super-
stitious as is indicated by the numerous amulets they wear round
their necks and arms. They are, however, superior to the Egyptians
in cleanliness, honesty, and subordination, and possess a more highly
developed sense of honour. The traveller must not expect to find
them very sincerely attached or grateful, any more than the native
Egyptians, but as servants they are certainly preferable. The Nubian
language belongs to a special group of the African tongues; and
I)r. Brugsch was of opinion that it may afford a clue to the inter-
pretation of the still undeciphered Meroi tic inscriptions of the Nubian
part of the Nile valley. It is divided into three dialects: 1. Kenuz,
spoken between the First Cataract and Es-Sebu'a; 'J. El-Mahasi,
from Korosko to Hannek (at the third cataract) ; 3. Dongola, pre-
valent in the province of Dongola from Hannek to Gebel Deiga
(near Korti) and resembling the Kenuz dialect.
Those Nubians who do not learnArabicgrammatically neverspeak
it thoroughly well ; but itis generally, though imperfectly, understood
in Nubia. The traveller must therefore not expect to learn good Arabic
from his Nubian servants. In their native country the Nubians till
the banks of the Nile, but their land is of very limited extent and
poorly cultivated; and as their harvests are scanty they are rarely able
to support large families. They accordingly often emigrate at an early
age to the richer lands of Egypt, chiefly to the large towns, in quest of
employment. When the Nubian has succeeded in amassing a mod-
erate fortune, he returns to settle in his native country, of which
throughout his whole career he never entirely loses sight. They are
most commonly employed as doorkeepers ('6auu'a6 J, as house-servants
(khaddam), as grooms and runners (sdis), for which their swiftness
renders them unrivalled, as coachmen f'artupZj, and as cooks C/aifca&ft^.
Each of these five classes is admirably organized as a kind of guilda
w ith a sheikh of its own, who levies a tax from each member, and
Levantines. POLITICAL NOTES. Ix
guarantees the cliaracter and abilities of members when hired. Thefts
are very rarely committed by the Nubians, but in cases of the kind the
sheikh compels the whole of his subjects to contribute to repair the
loss, and cases have been known in which several hundred pounds
have been recovered in this way. The result is that there is a
strict mutual system of supervision, and suspected characters are
unceremoniously excluded from the fraternity. Nubian women are
seldom seen in Egypt.
(Gi\ Sudan Nkgeoes. Like the Nubians, most of the negroes in
Egypt are professors of- Islam, to the easily intelligible doctrines
of which they readily and zealously attach themselves. Most of the
older negroes and negresses with whom the traveller meets have
originally been brought to Egypt as slaves, and belong to natives,
by whom they arc treated more like members of the family than
like servants. The eunuchs, who also belong almost exclusively to
the negro races, very seldom avail themselves of any opportunity of
regaining their liberty, as their emancipation would Jiecessarily ter-
minate the life of ease and luxury in which they delight. — The
numerous negroes who voluntarily settle in Egypt form the dregs of
the people aiid are employed in the most menial offices.
Most of the negro- races of Central Africa to the N. of the
equator are represented at Cairo, particularly in the rank and tile of
the negro regiments. In 1907 there were 65,162 natives of the
S&dan settled in Egypt.
(7). TuEKs. Although the dynasty of the viceroys of Egypt is
of Turkish origin (see p. cxx), a comparatively small section of the
community belongs to that nation. According to the census of 1907
there were '27,591 genuine Turks in Egypt, besides 42,134 Turkish
subjects from other parts of the Ottoman empire (Syria, Arabia,
Armenia). The Turks of Egypt are chiefly to be found in the towns,
where most of them are government-officials, soldiers, and merchants.
The Turkish language is very little understood in Egypt.
(S). Lkvantinks, Syrians, etc. A link between the various
classes of dwellers in Egypt and the visitors to the banks of the
Nile is formed by the members of the various Mediterranean races,
especially the Christian Syrians, known when of partly European
origin as Levantines, who have been settled here for several genera-
tions, and form no inconsiderable element in the population of the
larger towns. Most of them profess the Latin form of Christianity,
and Arabic has now become their mother tongue, although they
speak also French, Italian, or English. They are good men of
business, and are often employed as shopmen and clerks. Their
services have also become indispensable at the consulates and in
several of the government-offices. A large proportion of them arc
wealthy. The Egyptian press is very largely in the hands of Syrian "
Levantines, a great many of whom are lawyers, physicians, and
chemists also.
Ixii 11. GKOGRAPHICAL AND b. Modern KyyptiaHs:
(Q). AiiMiiNiANs AND Jews. This section of the com m unity is
somewhat lesa numerous than the last. The Armenians generally
possess excellent abilities and a singular aptitude for learning both
oriental and European languages, which they often acquire with
great grammatical accuracy. They often hold high positions in the
service of government, and many of them are wealthy goldsmiths
and jewellers.
The Jews (38,635 in 1907) are met with almost exclusively in
Cairo and Alexandria, and can hardly be reckoned as among the
natives of the country. Most of them are from Palestine, though of
Spanish origin, but many have recently immigrated from Roumania.
The latter are popularly called 'Shlekhti', in reference to the bar-
barous German idiom tliey speak. Most of the money-changers in the
streets (sarrdf), and many of the wealthiest merchants of Egypt, are
Jews, and notwithstandiug tlic popular prejudice entertained against
them, they now form one of the most highly respected sections of
the community.
(10). Europeans. The number of European residents and
visitors in Egypt was 147,220 in 1907, inclusive of the British army
of occupation. The Greelvs arc most numerously represented, then
the Italians, British (including Indians and Maltese), French, Aus-
trians (including many Dalmatians), Russians, and Germans. Be-
sides these nationalities, there are also a few representatives of
America, Spain, Switzerland, Belgium, Holland, Scandinavia, and
other countries. — The Greeks of all classes are generally traders. They
constitute almost entirely the aristocracy of Alexandria, and, at the
other end of the scale, nearly all the small inn-keepers and victual-
dealers (bahkdl) in other towns are Greeks. The cigarette-industry
also is almost exclusively in the hands of Greeks. They are the
proprietors of the small steam-mills that abound in the villages, and
of the numerous small banks which lend money on good security,
both to the peasantry and the government-officials, at a rate of
interest sometimes amounting to (5 per cent monthly, the maximum
permitted by law. The Greeks are the only Europeans who have
established themselves permanently as merchants beyond the confines
of Egypt proper. Almost the entire trade with the Egyptian Sudan is
now in their hands. Of recent years many Greeks have been active
as physicians, lawyers, engineers, architects, and especially land-
owners, but they are conspicuous by their absence from the govern-
ment-service. The Greeks have also the unenviable notoriety of
committing numerous murders, thefts, and other crimes, but it must
be borne in mind that they are by far the most numerous section of
the European community (62,978 in 1907), and that most of them
belong to the lowest class of immigrants. The commercial superior-
ity of the Greeks to the Orientals is nowhere so strikingly mani-
fested as in Egypt, where it affords a modern reflex of their ancient
success in colonization.
Phtrorenns. POLITICAL NOTES. Ixiii
The Italian residents, 34,926 in number, consist cliielly of tr.-id-
ers of a humlilc class, but include also many mcrcliants, advocates,
and scholars. Of I'rencli nationality (^14,591) arc all the artisans of
the higher class, who are generally noted for their skill, trust-
worthiness, and sobriety. Most of the better shops are kept by
Frenchmen, and the chief European officials of the government,
including several architects and engineers, were until recently
French. The British settlers numbered 6118 in 1882 and in 1907
20,653, inclusive of the troops. Until recently their si)ecialties
were the manufacture of machinery and the construction of railways
and harbours; but of late they have also almost monopolized the
chief posts in those branches of the administration (army, post and
telegriipli office, railways, custom-liousel that have been remodelled
after the British pattern. Apart from the troojis, a large majority
of the residents wiio enjoy the protection of the British consTilate
are Maltese and natives of India (in 19UT , 6292 from Britisli
(lolonies). To the Maltese apply even more forcibly most of the
remarks already made regarding the (i reeks. It has been ascertained
that the Maltese settlers Iti foreign countries are more numerous
than those resident in tlieir two small native islands, and of these
a considerable proportion belongs to Egypt. At home, under the
discipline of British institutions, they form a pattern little nation
of their own, but in Egypt, where they are freed from the restraint
of these influences, they are very apt to degenerate and to swell
unduly the ranks of the criminal class. Many of the Maltese, how-
ever, are enterprising tradesmen and industrious artisans, such as
shoemakers and joiners. To the Austrian (7704) and German ( 1847 )
community belong a number of merchants of the best class, many
physicians and teachers, inn-keepers, musicians, and lastly humble
hainlicraftsmen. — In 1907 there wero 521 Americans in Egypt.
With regard to the capability of Europeans of becoming ac-
climatized in Egypt there are a number of widely divergent opinions.
Much, of course, must depend on the nature of the climate of their
own respective countries. It has been asserted that European
families settled in Egypt die out in the second or third generation,
but of this there is no sufficient proof, as the European community
is of very recent origin, and many examples to the contrary might
be cited. Moreover as the Europeans in Egypt dwell exclusively in
the large cities, they do not afford very conclusive evidence on the
general question ; for city life, as opposed to country life, is even
less propitious to liealth and vigour in warm countries than it is in
northern climes. Thus the Mamelukes have left no descendants in
Egypt. The climate of Egypt (comp, p. Ixxvii) is less enervating
than that of most other hot countries, an advantage attributed to
the dryness of the air.
Ixiv II. GEOGRAPHICAT. AND c. The Nile.
c. The Nile.
Bff Captain H. G. Lyons.
From tlicj sources of the Nyavaronyo, a tributary of the Kagera
River, to the sea the Kagera-Nile is the second longest continuous
waterway in the world (4037 M.), being surpassed only by the
Mississippi-Missouri, wliich is probably about 100 M. longer. From
the Ripon Falls at Lake Victoria to the sea the distance is 3473 M.,
so that the Nile proper is the longest single river in the world, tlie
Yang-tse-kiang i>robably coming next.
Rising to the N.E. of Lake Tanganyika, the waters of the Nya-
varongo-Kagera flow into the great Victoria Lake, on the N. shore
of which, at the Ripon Falls, begins the true Nile. After a course
of 242 M. this enters the Albert Lake. From this point, under the
name of the Bahr el-Gehel, it traverses a rocky channel as far as
Gondokoro, and it then flows for 470 M. through the swamps Avhich
till the valley and provide the reeds and grasses of the 'sudd', or mass
of vegetation wliich from time to time blocks the channel (p. 435).
Jn latitude 9° 30' N. the main stream receives two tributaries, the
Bahr el-GhaiCd and the Bahr ez-Zarafeh, and a little farther on it is
joined by the important Sobat River, to which the annual flood of
the White Nile is due. From this point to Khartum the Bahr el-
Abyad or 'White Nile', as it is here called, flows through a shallow
valley of considerable width, until it is joined by the Bahr el-Azrak,
i.e. the 'blue', 'dark', or 'turbid' Nile, so called in contradistinc-
tion to the White Nile, the 'clear' water of which has been filtered
in its passage through the marshes of the Bahr el-Gebel or has de-
posited its silt in the upper reaches of the Sobat. Between Khartum
and the Mediterranean, a distance of 1900 M., the Nile receives no
further addition to its supply except from the river Atbara, while
it is being continually diminished by evaporation, by percolation into
the sandstone of the desert through which it flows, and by the irri-
gation of its flood-plains in Egypt. — Between Wadi Haifa and
Assuan the average breadth of the Nile is about 550 yds., to the N.
of Assuan it varies from 550 to 980 yds.
As practically no rain falls within its limits, Egypt would cease
to exist as a fertile country and would become a desert valley,
similar to those of the Sahara, were it not for its constant supply of
water from the Nile. Thus the all-important annual Inundation of
th at river merits special notice as the great event of the Egyptian year.
The heavy rains which fall from June to September on the Abys-
sinian tableland cause the Blue Nile and the Atbara to rise rapidly,
and their waters carry down in suspension vast quantities of the
mud which has during many centuries formed the fertile valley and
delta of Egypt, but of which very little is deposited now, however,
owing to the perennial irrigation (comp. p. Ixxi). The volume of
the Blue Nile flood, which may reach and even exceed 360,000 cubic
c. The Nile. POLITICAL NOTES. Ixv
feet per second, holds back the waters of the White Nile above
the junction of the two streams, so that in August and September
the waters of the Bahr el-Gebel and the Sobat are penned up in
the White Nile valley and contribute only a very small share to
the inundation of the Nile proper. The rains of Abyssinia may
therefore be regarded as practically regulating tlie height of the
inundation of the Nile, and it is their variations which occasion
the fluctuation from year to year. The region of the equatorial
lakes has no effect whatever on the flood.
The Nile begins to rise at Khartum about the middle of May,
and at Assuan by the beginning of June, reaching its maximum
height at both places about the end of the first week in September.
The mean difference between the highest and lowest stages of the
river is 21 ft. at Khartum, 20 ft. at Wadi Haifa, 23 ft. at Assuan,
22 ft. at Assiut, 22 ft. at Minyeh, and 16 ft. "at Cairo. After the flood
has reached its maximum height the Blue Nile falls rapidly, but the
water of the White Nile, which is now liberated, prevents too rapid
a fall of the river below Khartiim. By January the Blue Nile sup-
ply has diminished to a small amount, while that of the White Nile
is several times as great, and this state of affairs continues until
June, when the Blue Nile again rises. Thus, for these five months
the mainstay of the Nile supply is the constant quantity furnished
by the White Nile, amounting to some 14,000 cubic ft. per second,
supplemented by a quantity from the Sobat River and the Blue
Nile, which varies from year to year according to the amount of the
summer and autumn rains of Abyssinia in the preceding year.
From time immemorial the Nile flooded its valley annually.
Crops were sown on the mud flats left by the water as it subsided
and, at a very early period, a system of irrigation was developed by
which the flood-water, with its load of rich earth, was led by canals
into basins enclosed by earthen banks, where it deposited its sedi-
ment and whence it was allowed to escape when the river had fallen
suffi(;iently. The crops which grew luxuriantly on the soil thus
annually enriched were harvested in April and May, after which
time land in the neighbourhood of the river or where there were
wells could alone be cultivated until November after the next flood.
The amount of water was insufficient to meet the needs of agri-
culture in Egypt during the months of May, June, and July.
Of recent years, however, especially since Mohammed Ali deve-
loped cotton-growing in the Delta, a great change has taken place.
It is no longer in the fljood-season alone that water is supplied to
the land. Several large works have been constructed in order to
render Perennial Irriyation (comp. p. Ixxi) possible, by storing up
the surplus water in November, December, and January for distri-
bution in the later months before the arrival of the flood, and by
means of canals and numerous regulating works water is supplied
to the Delta at such a level as to flow on to the cultivated land at
BAiiDKK£B'a Egypt. Tth Edit. e
Ixvi U. GEOGRAPHICAL AND c. The Nile.
all seasous, thus allowing a series of crops to bo raised througbout
the year. Moliammetl All deepened canals and began in 1835 the
construction of the Delta Barrage (comp. p. 122), which was not
completed, however, until 1890. It renders it possible to raise the
upstream water-level so that the water can at all times flow into the
three main delta-canals, the Rayah et-Taufiki, the Rayah el-Menn-
fiyeh, and the RayAh el-Belieireh. In 1902 were conipletedjthe
Assuan Dam (p. 371 ) and the Assiut Barrage (p. 232). The tlrst of
these works (recently heightened) allows a reserve-supply of water
to be kept to increase the insufticient supply of the river in May,
June, and July, while the second enables the water-level of the
river at Assiut to be raised until it flows down the great Ibrahimiyeh
Canal whii-h supplies the provinces of Assiut, Minyeh, Benisueif,
Gizeh, and (through the Bahr Yusuf) the Faiyuni. F"inally the bar-
rage at Esneh (p. 342), completed in 1909, provides for the irri-
gation of the provini'e of Keneh. One (dfect of the modifications
thus introduced is to diminish to some extent the importance of the
high floods, but to enhance enormously the value of a favourable low-
stage supply, since in April, May, June, and July, when the supply
of water is lowest, a very large proportion of the country from
Assist to the sea is bearing crops, principally cotton , the most
valuable crop of the year. Another effect of increased perennial
irrigation is that the volume of water brought down by bountiful
inundations is greater than is now required. Of late years, very
large sAms liave been expended in providing an efficient system of
drainage to prevent low-lying lands from becoming water-logged
and the Rosetta branch is now being remodelled to increase its
capacity as a flood-escape.
The breadth of the Nile valley is nowhere great, and only a por-
tion of it is occupied by the cultivated alluvial plain, the rest con-
sisting of desert-sands at too high a level to be reached by the
Inundation. In Nubia the cultivable land is restricted to isolated
patches, while the valley is rarely as much as 2-3 M. wide; in
Egypt it is wider, varyiug from 15 M. at Benisueif to 5 M. at Edfu,
of which 13 M. and 4 M. respectively are cultivated.
The alluvial deposit which is annually brought down by the
Nile in flood has accumulated in the course of centuries to an average
depth of 35-40 ft., occasionally even more. In composition it varies
slightly from place to place. As a rule it forms a good light soil
being rather above the average in potash but deficient in nitrates
The view formerly held that it had a high manurial value was an
exaggerated one, and it should be considered rather as a virgin soil
which, added annually to the surface of the land, enables it to
bear luxuriant crops year after year.
Every year during the Hood a considerable deposit of silt takes
place in the river-bed, part of which is carried away as the river
falls, but the general result is that the bed of the Nile has been
<j. The Nile. f OLITICAL NOTES. Ixvii
slowly rising by deposit ai an av(Mai;e rate of about 4 inches prr
century for at least 5000 years and for a long period before this at
some undeterminable rate. One consequence of this is that temples,
which -wore built on the banks of the river, well above the annual
inundation, are now below it, and foundations which were originally
dry are now below the indltration-levol and in i'Oi\sequence have
deteriorated.
This remarkable river has exercised a unique influence on the
history of civilization. The necessity of controlling its course and
utilizing its water taught the ancient Egyptians the art of river
engineering and the kindred science of land-surveying, while in the
starry heavens they beheld the eternal calendar which regulated the
approach and the departure of the inundation, so that the river may
perhaps have given the first impulse to the study of astronomy. As
the annual overflow of the water obliterated all landmarks, it was
necessary annually to measure the land anew, and to keep a register
of the area belonging to each proprietor; and above all it became
an important duty of the rulers of the people to impress them with
a strong sense of the sacredness of property. Similar causes produced
a like result in Babylonia, Every succeeding year, however, there
arose new disputes, and these showed the necessity of establishing
settled laws and enforcing judicial decisions. The Nile thus led to
the foundation of social, legal, and political order.
Subsequently, when the engineers and architects, in the service
of the state or in the cause of religion, erected those colossal struc-
tures with which we are about to become acquainted, it was the
Nile which materially facilitated the transport of their materials,
and enabled the builders of the pyramids and the other ancient
Egyptians to employ the granite of Assuan for the structures of
Memphis, and even for those of Tanis, near the coast of the Medi-
terranean. As the river, moreover, not only afforded a convenient
route for the transport of these building-materials, but also an ad-
mirable commercial highway, we find that the Egyptians had acquired
considerable skill at a very early period in constructing vessels
with oars, masts, sails, and even cabins and other appliances.
From the earliest historical period down to the present time the
course of the Nile, from the cataracts down to its bifurcation to the
N. of Cairo, has undergone very little change. This, however,
is not the case with its Embouchures; for, while ancient writers
mention seven (the Pelusiac, the Tanitic, theMendesian, the Bucolic
or Phatnitic, the Scbennytic, the Bolbitinic, and the Canopic), there
are now practically t\M) channels only through which the river is
discharged into the se.i. These are the mouths at llosetta (Rashid)
and Daiuietta(Dumyat), situated near the middle of the Delta, while
the Pelusiac and Canopic mouths, the most important in ancient
times, lay at the extreme E. and W. ends of the coast respectively.
Ixviii 11. GEOGRAPHICAL AND d. Otology.
d. Geology of Egypt.
1. The Nile Vallky and the I.sthmus of Suez. The building
stone generally used at Alexandria is obtained from the quarries of
Meks (p. 26) and on the coast to the E. of Alexandria. This is a
calcareous light-coloured stone of the quaternary period, formed of
fragments of shells and foraminifera, intermixed with oolitic granules
and grains of quartz sand, or even with fine gravel. This rock forms
low hills to the W. of Alexandria and the coast-strip from Alexan-
dria to Abukir. In many places it is covered by sand-dunes and
other recent formations.
The cultivated plains of the Delta and the A'j7e Valley consist
of recent alluvial deposits, ranging from fine sand to the finest silt,
laid down by the water of the annual inundation. Under these lie
coarser yellowish sands and gravels of pleistocene age, which here
and there reach the surface in the Delta as islands of sandy waste
among the rich cultivation of the surrounding country. These are re-
lated to the later sand and gravel deposits on the neighbouring deserts,
and to the traces of marine cliffs and beaches of the same period
which may be seen on both sides of the valley at Cairo and at other
places. At Abu Za'bal (p. 120), to the N.E. of Nawa, occurs a low
hill of basalt which supplies excellent road-metal for Cairo and
Alexandria.
The N. portion of tlie Isthmus of Suez consi.sts of the recent marine
deposits of the Mediterranean, while in the central portion, near the
low hill of El-Gisr and round Lake Timsah, are deposits of the Nile
mud with fresh-water shells. To the S. of the Bitter Lakes are found
marine quaternary deposits of the Red Sea.
Reefs of fossil coral of quaternary age occur over a large part of
the coasts of the Gulf of Suez, and the highest of these are now
1000 ft. above the present sea-level, while five or six others occur
at lower levels. The land here, or at least the coast line, must there-
fore have risen considerably in comparatively recent times, and the
salines which are now forming appear to show that the movement
has not yet ceased. The shores and islands of the Red Sea are to-
day fringed with coral reefs which are most dangerous to shipping.
Sands and loams occur to the S. of the pyramids of Gizeh, and
at numerous places on the E. side of the Nile valley between Cairo
andFeshn, belonging, as is shown by the numerous fossils which they
contain, to the pliocene age. The small valley immediately to the
S. of the pyramids of Zawiyet el-'Aryan has been cut out in these
beds, and a rich collection of pliocene fossils may be made here.
These deposits are intimately connected with the formation of the
present valley in pliocene times, when it was at first a fiord into
which the waters of the Mediterranean flowed at least as far as Keneh
and perhaps even as far as Esneh. In the time of the older miocene
sea the Nile valley did not exist, but instead a large river flowed
from a S.W. direction towards the region that is now Lower Egypt.
d. Geology. POLITICAL NOTES. Ixix
The fluvio-marine deposits of Moghara (to the W. of the Wadl
Natrun) and the silicifled wood of the same district also belong to
these mioceiie times, as do also the marine limestones of the plateau
of Cyrenaica, to the N. of the Siweh Oasis and on the E. edge of the
Arabian Desert (at the foot of Gebel Geneifeh and Gebel 'Atika),
and on the shore of the Gulf of Suez near Gebel Zeit.
The 'Petrified Forest" near Cairo consists of scattered fragments
of the silicifled stems of trees; and these, together with the red
sandstone of Gebel el-Ahmar and conical hills of the same material
in the N. parts of the Arabian and Libyan deserts, are connected
■with the siliceous thermal springs which bubbled forth amid the
network of lagoons which existed in these parts in oligocene times.
To the N.W. of theBirket Kariin, in the Faiyiim, these fossil trees are
even more numerous, while in the sands of oligocene age innumer-
able bones of former terrestrial and marine mammals and reptiles
have been found, which were carried down by the river and buried
iu its estuarine deposits. A flne collection of these fossil animals may
be seen in the Geological Museum at Cairo.
The cliffs of the Nile valley above Cairo consist of middle and
lower eocene limestone, containing numerous nummulites (p. 116)
and other fossils. The strata are gently inclined to the N.N.W., so
that the strata increase in age as we go towards the S.
To the S. of Edfu begins thv upper cretaceous formation, here re-
presented by the sandstone which at Gebel Silsileh forms steep walls
of rock and confines the river in a narrow channel. This 'Nubian
Sandstone covers an area of many thousand square miles, extending
from the oases to the Sudan. At certain points, such as Assuan,
Kalabsheh, Wadi Haifa, and the third and fourth cataracts, ridges
of crystalline rocks (granite, gneiss, diorite, etc.) rise through it,
and form black or reddish hills in sharp contrast to the low tabular
masses of the sandstone.
2. In the Arabian or Eastern Desert (pp. 362, 372 et seq.) a
line of hills, some peaks of which are 7000 ft. in height, runs parallel
to the licd Sea and at short distance from it. This is wholly formed
of crystalline rocks (granite, gneiss, diorite, hornblende-si-hist, mica-
srhist, talc-schist and tlie andesites and allied rocks which form a
great series of very ancient volcanic rocks, the imperial porphyry of
Gebel Dukhan being a well-known representative). The E. and W.
slopes of this range are overlaid by sedimentary rocks, usually the
Nubian sandstone, but also (in the N. part) by limestones and marls.
These stretch away toward the W., forming a great plateau of lime-
stone in the N. and of sandstone in the S., in which the Nile Valley
forms a narrow trough. Numerous deeply eroded valleys give a char-
acteristic appearance to the Eastern Desert. The open plains are
almost bare of vegitation, but numerous plants may be seen in the
valleys, especially after rain, while in the sheltered ravines among
tjje hills where springs occur they grow luxuriantly.
Ixx II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND e. Agriculture:
3. The Westekn or Libyan Desert (pp. 378 et seq.) is totally
different. The level limestone plateau, about 1000 ft. above the sea,
extends to the W., its S. escarpment overlooking the lower plain of
the Nubian sandstone to the S. In deep bays in this escarpment lie
the oases of Khdrgeh, Ddkhleh, and Fardfra, while that of Bahriyeh is
situated in a depression surrounded by the higher plateau. The pla-
teau is waterless and practically devoid of vegetation, while isolated
knolls show how rapidly the erosion of the desert-surface by wind
is proceeding. In certain parts lines of sand-dunes 100-200 ft. high
stretch across the desert plateau in a N.N.W. and S.S.K. direction,
sometimes for several hundred miles with hardly a break. They are
most developed to the W. of the oasis of Dakhleh. The floor of the
oases of Khargeh and Dakhleh consists mostly of dark-coloured sands
and clays of the upper cretaceous formation. Some beds contain alum
and others are phosphatic. Springs well up at many points from a
depth of about 400 ft. and furnish an abundant water-supply to the
cultivated lands (comp. p. Ixxii). Some of these rise through natural
lissures and others through holes bored for the purpose.
To the S. of the oases lies the lower plain of the Nubian sand-
stone. This plain contains no hills of any importance, but pre-
sents a low rolling surface covered with blackened flint pebbles
and concretions of iron and manganese oxide, while the silicified
trunks of fossil trees are frequently met with. Yellow drift-sand is
seen everywhere, but it is only occasionally that it forms dunes of
any size.
The oasis of Farafra lies faither to the W., and to the N. and W.
of it extends the plateau of eocene limestone as far as the oasis of
Stweh. The strata here are mostly of miocene age, and they contain
numerous fossils, a fact recorded by Herodotus and Eratosthenes.
e. Agricnlture and Vegetation.
1. Capabilities of the Soil. The land is extremely fertile, but
it is not so incapable of exhaustion as it is sometimes represented
to be. Many of the crops, as elsewhere, must occasionally be followed
by a fallow period ; others thrive only when a certain rotation is ob-
served (such as wheat, followed by clover and beans) ; and some
fields require to be artificially manured. Occasionally two crops are
yielded by the same field in the same season (wheat and saffron,
wheat and clover, etc.). The great extension within the last thirty
or forty years of the cultivation of the sugar-cane, which requires
a great deal of moisture, and of the cotton-plant, which requires
much less, has necessitated considerable modifications in the modes
of irrigation and cultivation hitherto in use. As both of these crops
are of a very exhausting character, the land must either be more
frequently left fallow or must be artificially manured. The in-
dustry and powers of endurance of the Egyptian peasantry are thus
Irrigation. POLITICAI. NOTES. Ixxi
most severely tried, although the homogeneous soil of the valley of
the Nile requires less careful tilling and ploughing than ours. As
the dung of the domestic animals is used as fuel throughout Egypt,
where wood is very scarce, while that of the numerous pigeons (comp.
p. 235) is mainly used for horticultural purposes, resource must be
had to other manures. One of these is afforded by the ruins of an-
cient towns, which were once built of unbaked clay, but now con-
sist of mounds of earth, recognizable only as masses of ruins by the
fragments of pottery they contain. Out of these mounds, which
conceal the rubbish of thousands of years, is dug a kind of earth,
known as Sabakh, sometimes containing as much as 12 per cent of
nitrate of soda, potash, and cliloride of soda. The valuable nitrates,
however, usually form a very small proportion. So largely have
these ancient sites been worked of late years, since intensive cul-
tivation began, that they will be exhausted at no very distant date.
So long as the inundation deposited a thick deposit of fresh mud
on the basin-lands every year, and a single crop was raised off the
greater part of the area, the land could go on producing crops inde-
finitely, but now that most of the land Is irrigated throughout the
year a very small amount of the mud is deposited, while two or more
crops are raised annually. To meet this, manuring in a much more
systematic manner than hitherto has now become necessary, but as
yet few cultivators have fully realized this.
2. Irrigation. As a consequence of the works described on
y. lx.vi, the whole of Egypt from Assiut to the Mediterranean, with
tiie exception of a strip of land along the edge of the Western Desert
and the right bank of the Nile above Cairo, has had its old system
of flood-irrigation, i.e. a single watering by the annual inundation,
replaced by a ])erennial supply furnished by innumerable canals
and watercourses. In the inundation season (p. Ixiv) the sluice-gates
of the dams are open and the red-brown flood rushes through them
towards the plains of l\gypt. When the irrigation-basins are flUed
up to a sufficient level, the water is left in them for about 40 days,
to deposit its suspended mud and to soak the ground thoroughly.
The perennially irrigated lands of the provinces of Middle Egypt
;in(l the Delta receive only so much water as the standing crops
ru([uire, since these districts cannot be inundated. They, therefore,
under the present intensive cultivation receive a very much smaller
amount of mud from the flood-water than the land v/hich has basin-
irrigation, and this has to be compensated by extensive manuring.
Briefly stated, the annual routine after the end of the inundation
is as follows. In November, when the Nile is falling and the whole
country is amply supplied, the sluice-gates of the Assuan Dam are
gradually closed, so as to fill the reservoir slowly. This is usually
accomplished about the end of January. The gates of the Esneh,
Assiut, and Delta barrages are similarly manipulated so as to main-
tain the ne(;essary depth of water \n the supply-canals. In April the
Ixxil II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND e. Agriculture:
supply falls below the requirements of the country, and, besides
drawing upon the supply of the reservoir, it then often becomes
necessary to restrict land-owners on different parts of a canal to
drawing water from it in rotation. Periods of watering alternate
with periods when the water is employed elsewhere. The intervals
become longer as the river falls, and the supply steadily diminishes
until the flood rises about the beginning of August.
Above Assiiit flood irrigation still continues. About Aug. 20th
the river has risen high enough to flow into the supply canals and
basins; in these, when full, the water stands for 40 days. At the
end of this period the clear water is allowed to flow back into the
river, or, in the case of years when the flood is exceptionally low,
into other basins at a lower level. On the mud thus left the seed is
sown and a crop is grown without further watering. In years of in-
sufficient flood the higher portions of the land are not watered; these
lands are termed 'sharaki' and pay no tax when unwatered.
The irrigation is effected by means of: (1) The ^Sdkiyeh\ or
large wheels (rarely exceeding 30 I't. in diameter), turned by cattle
or buffaloes, and sometimes by camels, and fitted with scoops or
buckets (kddCis) of wood or clay, resembling a dredging-machine.
(2) The ^Shuduf\ an apparatus resembling an ordinary 'well-sweep'
(with bucket and counter-weight), set in motion by one person only,
and drawing the water in buckets resembling baskets in appear-
ance; as a substitute for the sakiyeh several shadufs are some-
times arranged one above the other. (3) When it is possible to store
the water in reservoirs above the level of the land to be watered,
it is allowed to overflow the fields whenever required. This is the
only method available in the oases, where fortunately the springs
rise with such force as to admit of their being easily dammed up
at a sufficiently high level. (4) Pumps driven by steam are used also,
particularly when a large supply of water is required, as in the case
of the sugar-plantations on the banks (gefs) of the Nile in the N.
part of Upper Egypt, where they are seen in great numbers. (5) The
Taftut', a peculiar, very light, and easily moved wooden wheel,
which raises the water by means of numerous compartments in the
hollow felloes, is used mainly in the Lower Delta in places where
the level of the water in the canals remains nearly the same. —
Archimedean screws also are found in the Delta, and in the Faiyum
there are undershot water-wheels. Occasionally irrigation is efl'ected
by means of a basket (nattdl) slung on a rope between two labourers.
In order to distribute tlie water equally over fiat fields, these are
sometimes divided into a number of small squares by means of
embankments of earth, a few inches in height, which, owing to the
great plasticity of the Nile mud, are easily opened or closed so as to
regulate the height of the water within them. The efforts of govern-
ment as mentioned on p. Ixvi are directed towards the emanci-
pation of agriculture from dependence upon the inundation.
Seasons. POLITICAL NOTES. liiiii
3. AoRicuLTUEAii Sbasons. Ill the time of the Pharaohs the
Egyptian agricultural year, which originally began on July 19th,
■was divided into three equal parts, each consisting of four months
of 30 days: the period of the inundation, winter, and summer. At
the present day there are, strictly speaking, but two seasons: the
hot season lasting from May to September and a cooler one from
November to March , while October and April are intermediate
months; but the effect which the annual Nile flood has upon the
agriculture of the country rather than upon the ilimate has caused
the period from July to October to bu considered as a third season.
(a) The Winter Cultivation, or ^Esh-Shittvi\ lasts on the flooded
lands of Upper Egypt from November till April; on perennially
irrigated land the winter- sowing takes place from October onwards,
while tlie grain-harvest is reaped in April in Middle Egypt and in
May in the Delta. In this season the principal crops are wheat,
barley, beans, and barsim (clover).
(I)) The Summer Crops (Es-Seifi) may be considered as growing
from May to August in the basin -lands and to October wherever
tliere is perennial irrigation. The principal crops are rice, which is
sown in May and harvested in October, and cotton, sown in March
and picked in September and October. Most of the latter is grown
from seed, but a limited amount is grown from two-year-old plants
which have been cutback. On basin-lands of Upper Egypt where
sufficient water from wells is available a crop of durra (millet) is
grown and harvested before the flood-water arrives.
(c) The Autumn Season ('En- Mi', or flood) is the shortest,
lasting barely seventy days. On the rich land of the Delta maize is
grown. A large crop of durra is raised on the perennially irrigated
lands of Upper Egypt, and a considerable amount also grown on
those which are not reached by the inundation. This crop is cut
about November.
The Agricultuk.\i, Implements of tbe Egyptians are exceedingly
primitive and defective. The chief of these is the plough (mihrdi), the
form of which is precisely the same as it was 5000 years ago; and the
traveller will recognize it on many of the monuments and in the system
of hieroglyphics. It consists of a pole about 6ft. long, drawn by an ox,
buffalo, or other draucht-animal, attached to it by means of a yoke,
while to the other end is f;i>tened a piece of wood bent inwards at an
acute angle and shod with a three-pronged piece of iron (lisdn). Con-
nected with the pole is the handle which is held by the fellah. These
rude and light ploughs penetrate .but slightly into the ground. The
harrow is replaced in Kgypt by a roller provided with iron spikes (kum-
/ud , literally 'hedgehog'). The only tool used by the natives on their
fields, or in making embankments of earth, is a kind of hoe or shovel
(migrafeh, fas, toriyeh). The process of reaping consists in cutting the
grain with a sickle (mingal), or simply uprooting it by hand. The ndraff,
or 'threshing-sledge", consists of a kind of sledge resting on a roller
provided with sharp semicircular pieces of iron, and drawn by oxen or
buffaloes. This primitive machine, being driven over the wheat, peas,
or lentils to be threshed, crashes the stalks and ears and set.? free th«
grain or seeds.
lxx.iv U. GEOGRAPHICAL AND c. Ayriculture :
4. Farm Pkoduce op Egti't. The following is an enumeration of all
the most important industrial crops cultivated in Egypt. On hearing the
names of those with which he is unacquainted, the traveller may identify
them with the aid of the Arabic names given below. The various pro-
ducts are enumerated in the order of their importance.
a. Cereals. 1. Wheat (kamh). 2. Slaize (dura shdmi, i.e. Syrian;
called in Syria dura only). 3. Barley (shi'ir). 4. Rice (ruzz), cultivated
only in the lower part of the Delta of Alexandria and Rahmaniyeh, as
fa,r as Mansura, Zakazik, Sillihiyeh, and the Wadi Tumilat, and also in
the Faiyum and in the oases of the Libyan desert. 5. Sorghum vulgare
(dura beledi, i.e. durra of the country; simply called dura in the Sudan;
Ital. sort/ho, Engl. Ka.ffir-corn, and the Tyrolese sirch). G. Pennisetuni
typhoideum (dukhn).
b. LEGDMiNons Plants. 1. Broad beans (f&l). 2. Lentils {'ads). 3.
Chick-peas (/(r^mmw^;. 4. Lupins (^to'jnisj. b.Vea.s{bisilla). 6. Vigna Sinensis
(mbiya). 7. Dolichos Lablab (lablab), which is very frequently seen fes-
tooning walls and hedges, but is grown also in fields (lilbiya afin).
c. Green Crops. 1. White Egyptian clover (barsim). 2. Foenum
Grsecum (helbeh), frequently ground into flour and used in making bread ;
also generally eaten raw by the natives in spring ; not to be confounded
with clover. .3. Medicago sativa, or lucerne (barsim hegdzi). 4. Lathyrus
.sativus, or flat pea (gilbdn). 5. Sorghum halepense (gerau).
d. Stimulants. Poppies, for the manufacture of opium (afiUn). — The
growth and importation of Indian hemp (hashish; see p xxvi) and the
cultivation of tobacco (dukhkhdii) are forbidden, the latter measure being
in the interest of the customs-revenues.
e. Textile Materials. 1. Cotton (kutn) , introduced from India in
1821, but extensively cultivated since 1863 only. 2. Flax (killdn). 3. Hibis-
cus cannabinus (til). 4. Sisal hemp, or Agave rigida.
f. Dyes. 1. Indigo argentea, a peculiar kind (iiileh). 2. Lawsonia
inermis (henna)., used for dyeing the nails, the palms of the hands, and
the soles of the feet yellowish red fa very ancient custom) ; properly a
tree, but, like the tea-plant, cultivated in fields in the form of a dwarfed
bush. 3. Saffron (karlam or 'osfur). 4. Reseda Luteola (bliya), used as
a yellow dye.
g. Oil Plants. 1. Castor-oil plant (kharwa'). 2. Sesame (simsim).
3. 'Ra'P^ (selgam). 4. Mustard (khardal, or kabar). 5. Arachides, or earth-
nuts (fUl senndri, or simply fUl). 6. Saffron (as an oil-yielding plant).
7. Poppy (as an oil-plant).
h. Spices. 1. Capsicum annuum, the Italian peperone (Jil.fil ahmar).
2. Capsicum frutescens, or Cayenne pepper (shatla). 3. Aniseed (yansUn).
i. CoTianier (kusbareh). 0. Cummin (kammHn). ^i'.'WigeWa, (kammUii aswad).
7. Dill (shabat). 8. Mustard. 9. Fennel (shamar).
i. The Sugau Cane (kasab) is largely cultivated in the N. part of
Upper Egypt (comp. p. Ixxii). An inferior variety, which is eaten raw,
introduced from India in the time of the caliphs, is cultivated in every
part of the country.
k. Vegetables. 1. Bamyas, or Hibiscus esculentus (bdmiya). 2. On-
ions (basal).! one of the chief exports of Egypt. 3. Pumpkins (kar'a).
4. Cucumbers (khiijdr). 5. Egyptian cucumbers (frequently trumpet-shaped
and ribbed; different varieties csWa^'abdeldwi., 'aggUr^ etc.). 6. Melons
(kdw&n ; musk-melons, shammdm). 7. Water-melons (battikh). 8. Aubergines
(hddingdn). 9. Tomatoes (iamdlim). 10. Corchorus oli'torius (meWkhiyeh).
ii. Col(:ica,aia,(kulkds). i2. GutUc (tdm). 13. Mallows ('i7(«66e»zeA). 14. Cab-
bage (korumb). 15. Celery (karafs). 16. Radishes, a peculiar kind, with
fleshy leaves, which form a favourite article of food (figl). 17. Lettuces
(khass). 18. Sorrel (kommeid). 19. Spinach (i.ibdnikh). 20. Parsley (bak-
d&nis). 21. Purslane ((•«5''«ft). 22. Turnips (/?/0. 23. Carrots (j'e^ej', a peculiar
kind, with red juice). 24. Beetroot (bangar). 26. Cress (Eruca sativa;
gargir). A variety of other vegetables are cultivated in small quantities
n gardens, exclusively for the use of European residents.
Trees. POLITICAL NOTES. Ixxv
5. Tkkks and Plantations. The extensive planting of trees
since the middle of the 19th cent, has introduced a new feature into
the Egyptian landscape. In ancient times most of the timber re-
quired for sliip-huilding and other purposes seems to have been
imported from abroad. Mohammed Ali, a great patron of horti-
culture, at one time offered prizes for the planting of trees, but his
efforts Avere unattended with success, as the climatic and other diffi-
culties attending the task were then but imperfectly understood in
Egypt. Ibrahim followed the example of his predecessor, but 'Abbas I.
and Sa'id were sworn enemies to trees of every kind, and they were
content that their palaces should be exposed to the full glare of the
sun. A new epoch, however, began when the Khedive Isma'il sum-
moned to Egypt M. Barillet ( 18691, superintendent of the gardens
of Paris, one of the most skilful landscape-gardeners of the day.
The finest of the shade-trees, both on account of its umbrageousness
and the excellence of its wood, and one which thrives admirably, is
the lebbakh (Albizzia Lebbek\ which has long been erroneously
called by travellers the acacia of the Nile (the latter being properly
the sunt tree). Within forty years the lebbakh attains a height of
80 ft. and a great thickness, while the branches project to a long
distance over the roads, covering them with a dense leafy canopy
within a remarkably short time. Among the most important of the
other kinds of trees thus planted are the magnificent 'Flamboyer
des Indes' (Poinciana pulcherrima), the rapidly-growing Jacaranda,
Casuarina, and Eucalyptus, tropical fig-trees, and several rare
varieties of palms.
The lommonest Tkees of an Earlier Period which the trav-
eller will encounter in every town in Egypt are the following : —
The Acacia Nilotica (sunt), the thorn-tree of antiquity, the pods
(karad) of ^Yhich, resembling the beads of a rosary, yield an excel-
lent material for tanning purposes. Next to the palm, this is the
tree most frequently seen by the wayside and in the villages. Then,
the Acacia Farnesiana (fufnch), with blossoms of delicious perfume ;
the sycamore (gemmeiz)., anciently considered sacred ; the zizyphus,
or Christ's thorn -tree (neb/c); tamarisks (atl); the Parkinsonia
(seiseban); mulberry -trees (tut); and carob- trees, or bread of
St. John (kharrxLb).
Among the Fruit Trees the most important is the date-palm
(Phoenix dactyliftra, naktda; the date, halah; the ribs of the leaf,
yerid ; the points ('f the leaf, sanf; the terminal bud, gummdr; the
bast, t7f). In 1907 there were 5,966,010 date-palms in Egypt.
The date-palms blossom in March and April, and the fruit ripens
in August and September. Fre;h dates are rough in appearance,
blood-reil or pale yellow in colour, and harsh and astringent in
taste. Like the medlar they become more palatable after fermen-
tation has set in. There are no fewer than twenty-seven kinds of
date commonly offered for sale. The large.'^t attain a length of three
Ixxi^i II. GEOGRAPHICAL AND e. Agriculture.
inches, and are called ibrtmi, or sukkoti, as they come from N. Nubia.
The most delicately flavoured are the dark-brown dates from Alexan-
dria, known as amhdt, which are eaten fresh. The value of the
dates exported annually amounts to about one million francs only,
as they realize too high a price in the country itself to remunerate
the exporter. — The dum-palm (Hyphaena Thebaica) occurs prin-
cipally in Upper Egypt and Nubia. It may be seen on the Nile above
Baliana (comp. p. 244). It is a broad-leafed palm of medium height,
and its timber and bast are of considerable value. Various objects
are made out of the hard kernel of the fruit, whilethe soft and fibrous
rind is edible and has a sweetish taste, not unlike that of ginger-
bread. — The mango-tree (Mangifera Indica) has recently been in-
troduced into the Delta for the sake of its fruit.
The vine thrives admirably in Egypt, and grapes ('inah) abound
from July to September. Wine was extensively made from them
in ancient times, and this might still easily be done, were it not
that Egypt is already amply supplied with cheap and excellent
wines from every part of the Mediterranean. The vine blossoms in
March and April, like the palm, and the grapes ripen in June and
July. Oranges (burtukdn) are abundant and cheap (the harvest be-
ginning in September), and so also are mandarins ('■Yusuf Effendi )
and small lemons {lamun; the small and juii^y fruit of the Citrus
limonium) ; citrons and cedros are of less frequent occurrence.
Among other fruit-trees we may mention also the pomegranate
(rummdn), which yields a handsome return. The common European
fruits likewise abound, but their flavour is generally very inferior.
Figs (tin) are very common in summer, but caprification is not
practised in Egypt.
The principal Decorative Plants are roses (ward; of which
the Rosa Damascena moschata and Rosa sempervirens are specially
cultivated for the manufacture of attar of roses), oleanders of aston-
ishing height, carnations, and geraniums, all of which have been
grown in Egypt from a very early period. A bushy tree, which in
its half-leafless condition attra<"ts the attention of every traveller on
landing at Alexandria in winter , is the Poinsettia (Euphorbia
pulcherrima). The insignificant blossom is surrounded by leaves
of the most brilliant red, presenting a very picturesque and strik-
ing appearance. Natural forests, or even solitary wild trees, are
never met with in the valley of the Nile or in the valleys of the nor-
thern deserts.
f. Climate of Egypt.
By Captain H. O. Lyom.
The blue cloudless sky, the powerful sunlight, and the dry
vrarm air are among the first facts that strike the traveller on his
arrival in Egypt; and his surprise increases when he observes that
f. Climate.
POLITICAL NOTES.
Ixxvil
the conditions remain uniform day after day, and are, in short, so
generally the rule that 'the weather ceases to be a topic of conver-
sation. If from the top of the hills or cliffs bordering the Nile valley
to the S. of Cairo he looks out on the boundless deserts on either
side, the visitor will realize at once that Egypt is practically a part
of the Sahara, a verdant strip of fertile soil, 8-12 M. wide, depend-
ent for its existence upon the Nile; and that the refreshing purity
of the atmosphere is essentially due to the proximity of the desert.
Strictly speaking there are but two seasons (comp. p. Ixxiiij.
During the summer-months (May-Sept.) there prevails throughout
the whole of Egypt dry and hot weather, tempered by steady northerly
\vinds, but in the other half of the year, and especially in December,
January, and February, the storms of the Mediterranean exercise
so much effect on the Delta that comparatively cold weather, witli
cloudy days, is sometimes experienced as far as Cairo and even up
to Benisueif. The temperature is sometimes high even in winter,
but the dryness of the air prevents it from being trying, while as
soon as the sun gets low the temperature falls so rapidly as to
necessitate precautions against a chill.
The mean maximum and minimum temperatures at some of the
more important points are given in the following table:
1 January
April 1 July October
Max.
Min.
Max.
Min.
Max.
Min.
Max.
Min.
°F.
"F.
"F.
°F.
°F.
°F.
°F.
"F.
Alexandria ....
64.4
50.5
74.5
58.4
86.7
72.8
81.9
68.5
Cairo ('Abbasiyeh)
64.7
44.2
82.9
55
96.8
71.4
85.6
62.8
Assiut
69.6
39.6
90.8
56.5
99.7
71.9
87.9
63.3
Assuan
74.3
48.4
96.6
64.6
107.2
77.5
99.5
69.2
Wadi Haifa. . . .
74.5
46.4
95.9
62.9
105.2
7.3.9
97.5
1
68.5
In spite of the essential dryness of the climate, the rapid fall
of temperature at night causes morning-fog to be common in the
Nile Valley in winter. It is, however, rapidly dissipated when the
sun rises, and the rapid drying of the air as the day advances is
shown in the following table.
Percentage of Relative Humidity.
January
February
March
April
May
Alexandria ....
64
67
65
67
68
Cairo ('Abbasiyeh)
71
67
61
53
49
Assiut
69
63
55
43
37
Assuan
52
45
40
34
36
Wadi Haifa. . . .
47
37
31
25
21
Rain is rare in Upper Egypt, a slight shower in winter being
the most that is usually recorded. Heavier rain-bursts take place
Ixxviii II. GEOGRAPHICAL NOTfeS. f. Climate.
not infrequently iii the desert, and on rare occasions extend to the
Nile Valley.
At Cairo rain usually falls on 4-6 days in the year, the average
amount being about one inch. In some years, however, as much as
two inches are recorded, while in others hardly any rain falls.
At Alexandria and on the coast the regular winter-rains of the
Mediterrean occur, and the average annual rainfall is 8-10 inches,
most of which falls in November-February.
From Assiut southwards the prevalent winds blow from the N.
throughout the year, being slightly to the E. of N. i]i the spring-
months and more to the W, in the late summer. In winter and spring
dry S. winds occur occasionally. In the N. portion of the country
the winds are more variable, for although N. winds prevail, S. and
S.W. winds may continue for several days in the winter and are a
great hindrance to the sailing craft on the Nile at this season. These
S. winds are due to the Mediterranean winter-storms, which sweep
by from W. to l]., and if they follow a track between Crete and
Egypt produce S. winds blowing from the Egyptian deserts towards
the storm-centre. The winds blowing from the open desert are cold
and by their dryness seem to be even colder than they really are,
so that visitors to Cairo in the winter-months may experience the
sensation of a somewhat greater degree of fold thaTi wonld be ex-
pected from the temperatures quoted above.
The spring-storms of the Mediterranean are nlso primarily the
cause of the Khamastn or hot S. wind which occasionally blows for
two or three days at a time in March, April, and May. This wind
blows from the heated deserts and often attains considerable strength,
carrying with it sand and dust until a thick yellow fog may prevail,
sufficiently dense to hide the sun. The shade temperature under
these conditions frequently exceeds 100" Fahr.
On the desert-plateau the range of temperature is ,it all times
of the year considerably greater than in the valley, while the dryness
is much greater. In the valley the temperature varies comparatively
little and sinks to freezing point only for very brief periods. On the
desert-plateau, however, the thermometer often stands at the freez-
ing point and may even fall several degrees below it.
Ixxlx
HI. El-Islam.
Bp lYo/essor C. H. Becker.
The term Islam is used to connote the peculiar civilization of
the Nearer East, which owes its characteristic features to the spread
of the Arabs and to the reli.cion of Mohammed. However stranp:e
and novel it may appear to us at first sight, it is nevertheless based
upon the same general principles as the civilization of media;val
Europe, from which it differs mainly in being represented by other
peoples and other races, to whom the brilliant intellectual develop-
ment of Europe has been denied.
■i The rise of El-Islam has become historically intelligible only
within recent years. Formerly it was tacitly assumed on all hands
that the Arabs had imposed upon the East not only a new language,
but also a new, specifically Arab, civilization. This view agreed
with Christian conceptions, which recognized in islam only a new
religion and founded its opposition to Arab dominion on religious
and ecclesiastical motives only. In Christian eyes Mohammed was
identified with Antichrist; he instigated his barbarian hordes to
hurl themselves iipon the Christian countries of the P]ast in order to
convert them to Islam by the sword; the oourseof development since
antiquity was abruptly broken off; and the Islamic Arab civilizatioTi
superseded its early-Christian predecessor. When, with such pre-
conceptions as these, the Arabian historical sources were consulted,
they seemed at first to yield confirmation. The Arab tradition was as
ecclesiastically coloured as the European; there, too, ^ the starti!'.g-
point was Moliammed and the Arab migrations; Mohammed and
the early Caliphs were supposed to have reorganized everything
and to have rreatcd, in all essentials, the new Islamic civilization.
As a matter of fact, the erroneousness of all these current concep-
tions cannot be too emphatically insisted on.
In the first place it must bc^ clearly understood^that thc^^trium-
phant campaigns of the Mohammedans were nothing else than an
Arab Migration^ the latest and, for us, the most obvious of the great
Semitic migrations, abu'^olutcly analogous with the great migrations
of the Germanic peoples in Europe. The main difference between
the Arab and the German ic~migrations is this, viz. that the Arabs,
owing to their religious organization, were directed by a central
authority, so that the establishment of a homogeneous Islamic em-
pire became a possibility. 'It was not religious zeal, it was not
the fiery words of an inspired prophet that urged the Arabs on
their warlike mission to the outer world ; simple necessity, the long
continued economic decline of Arabia, in a word sheer hunger,
drove them into tjic rich lands of the settled countries. The move-
ment had begun centuries before Mohammed. The tribes of Inner
Arabia were already on the move, a peaceful immigration of Arabs
into Mesopotamia and Syria had already begun, and the standing
Ixxi III. EL-ISLAM.
hostility between Byzantium and Persia had many times led to
incursions into the settled districts by the savage border-tribes of
both empires. The tide had thus begun to flow long before Islam
gave the movement a unifying watch-word and an organization.
Universal dominion for the Arabs was the watch- word ; that was the
interpretation put upon Islam by the conquerors, in sharp contrast
with the initial position of their prophet. They had no thought
of converting the defeated nations by force; so long as tribute was
paid and Arab supremacy recognized, every religious and civil
right was confirmed to the conquered. At first conversion to Islam
was possible only by connecting the convert with the Arab tribal
system as a client; then, as a Moslem, he became, in theory at
least, a fully qualified burgess of the Islamic theocracy and no
longer required to pay tribute. Thus the flood of converts to Islam
soon became larger than was altogether pleasing to the Arabs;
but the impelling force was not terror of the sword but the great
economic advantages that attended the transition of a mere subject
into even the lowest rank among the rulers.
The key to a proper appreciation of Islamic civilization lies in
a due understanding of the relations existing between the thin
Arab upper layer and the huge underlying mass of their subjects.
in the case of kindred peoples at least, it was easy for the Arabs to
impose their language as the language of common intercourse; and
for the reasons given above their religion also was bound to spread.
But for the rest the Arabs, comparatively few in number and on a
lower stage of culture, could hardly hope to stamp a new civili-
zation upon the highly-developed inhabitants of the ancient empire.
In each new-won province, therefore, they simply took over the
arrangements for governing as they found them, and with them
all the problems of economic and intellectual life. Even their reli-
gion, in order to be effective, was forced to come to an under-
standing with the existing ecclesiastical conceptions of expiring
antiquity. The religion of Islam, born of the religious -spirit of W.
Asia, did not of its own strength impose upon a population of a
widely different nature that religious temper which is to this day
characteristic of the Islamic world, permeating state and society,
family and individual. On the contrary ; it was by the people of
the conquered lands that Islam itself was converted to that view of
existence, as we now see it, which infuses religion into everything ;
for these new converts, in contrast with the religiously-indifferent
Arabs, could neither do anything nor leave anything undone without
bringing it into direct relation with God and the future life. We
must therefore think of the early Islamic civilization, not as some-
thing quite new, introduced from elsewhere by the Arabs, but as
the self-assertion of the remarkable mixed civilization of the
Near East which had developed in the course of the first six
Christian centuries. In other words, Islam is the heir of the late-
III. EL-ISLAM. Ixxxi
Hellenistic Christian civilizatioi\, which we must regard as the
hybrid product of Greek and Asiatic feelings and philosophy.
When that point is established Islamic civilization falls into its
natural position in the general scheme of the historical develop-
ment of the wovhl. From the days of Alexander the Great down to
the Roman imperial epoch the East had been forced to bow to
European ideas and to submit to European domination. But just as
in the days of the early emperors the Hellenic spirit was suffocat-
ed in the embrace of the Orient and the classical world hungrily
assimilated the cults and religions of the East; so an ethnical re-
naissance of the East began in the second century and the Semitic
element steadily asserted itself beneath the Hellenistic surface.
With the spread of the Arabs the Orient once more achieved an
independence in the political sphere, corresponding to that which
had slowly been growing in the intellectual sphere. The first result
of the political union of the whole of the Near East was that the
Greek intellectual impulses there, cut off from their original sources
of inspiration and operating only through Semites, were submerged
by orientalism. On the other hand the seeds of Asiatic civilization
found fresh nourishment in the new whole formed by the permanent
political connection between the Near East and Western Asia; and
the Asiatic reaction against the comprehensive expansion of the
Greek spirit operated until far on in the Islamic period. Thus Is-
lamic civilization finds its organic connection with and place in the
general course of history. Further, we recognize another important
bond of connection; for, if Islam simply carried Christian civiliza-
tion a step farther, we are no longer surprised by the profound
inner relationship between the mental outlook of medisBval Christ-
ianity and that of Islam ; both systems are based upon the common
foundation of the Greek-Oriental civilization of Christian antiquity.
The Arabs on the one hand consistently stressed the oriental ele-
ments in this civilization; while on the other hand, on European
soil, the Germanic spirit turned farther and farther away from these
and elaborated from its inner consciousness the typical western
forms of the middle ages.
From these fundamental principles it becomes clear why Arabia
could not permanently remain the seat of the caliphate. Damascus
superseded Medina. It was only in the agitated period of the Arab
empire, the period of expansion, that the artificial condition of
the political supremacy of the Arabs over subjects superior to theiu
in culture could be maintained. In the long run the economic
and intellectual influence of the subjugated races was bound to
tell and the deposition of the Arab ruling class was inevitable.
The levelling influence of Islam, as it was understood by the over-
whelming majority of its converts, destroyed the economic basis of
the Arab dominion and with it the prerogatives of the Arabs as
such. The net results of the Arab period of Islamic civilizatiou
Bakdekkr's EeTT)t. 7th Edit. f
Ixxxii III. EL-ISLAM.
were a simple continuance of previously existing elements of civili-
zation, an advance to a kind of syncretism among the varied civili-
zations of the Near East, and the spread of the Arah tongue and
the religion of Islam.
By-and-by the people that was nationally the strongest and
the most advanced in culture within the wide empire of the caliphs
began to assert itself. That people was the Persians, whose civili-
zation even in pre-Islamic days had permeated the Near East and
was, indeed, the chief factor in orientalizing it. It is almost im-
possible to exaggerate the Importance of the Persian element in
Islamic civilization, which is so often erroneously spoken of as
Arabian. If we are to connect that civilization with the name of
any one people, it must be with the name of the Persians; for all
the notable achievements of the period of the caliphs, the sump-
tuous buildings, the works of literature, even the higher develop-
ments of the religion of Islam, are utterly un- Arabian and, so
far as they are not inspired by Greek influences, are due to the
Persian spirit. Only the domain of law, so intimately connected
with the beginnings of a religion, betrays the stamp of the Pro-
phet's native land. The decisive ascendancy of the Persians is ap-
parent enough in the facts that the Arabic language never estab-
lished itself on Persian soil and that under the Abbaside caliphs
it was a matter of course that court and government, architecture
and literature, should be modelled after ancient Persian patterns.
Moreover, when the separate provinces developed into indepen-
dent kingdoms, it was the Persian rulers alone that followed local
traditions, while, e.g., the Tnlunide sultans of Egypt could only
imitate the Persianized Baghdad and the residence of the caliphs
at Samarra, Even the civilization of the Fatimite empire was
thoroughly Persian.
The transference of the imperial residence from Damascus to
Baghdad heralded a new era, and the Arabian military aristocracy
was simultaneously changed into an absolute despotism on the
ancient oriental pattern. This was the natural consequence of the
deposition of the Arabs as a ruling caste (p. Ixxxi). The Arab
aristocracy of birth was superseded by a bureaucratic aristocracy
of Persian ofiicials , the free warriors sank into the condition of
paid troops, and were finally replaced by an army of slaves.
With these slaves, who were a constantly growing factor in the
Islamic world from the 9th century onwards, the third great national
element powerfully affecting Islam enters upon the scene. The
Turks, appearing at first in groups of slaves but afterwards as strong
tribes from Central Asia, introduced fresh traditions and new forms
' into the empire of the caliphs. This third phase in the develop-
ment of Islam begins with the appearance of the Seljuks, the most
powerful of these Turkish tribes. The union of the empire had
long before begun to crumble, but the Seljuks for a time postponed
m. EL-ISLAM. Ixxxiii
its disintegration. Egypt, indeed, at first stood out against tliem,
but even Egypt in the long run was unable, to repel the tide of
Seljuk influence ; and Turkish civilization penetrated to the Nile
under Saladin, who himself stood upon the ruins of the Seljuk
power. The religious reaction was accompanied by a change in
ecclesiastical architecture (p. clxxx), and the establishment of a
feudal system (very different indeed from the European system) coin-
cided with a total alteration of all titles of honour. The traditions
of Saladin's epoch were carried on in all departments by the Mame-
lukes, whose influence is most conspicuous in Egypt; while the
continuous reinforcements from Central Asia conduced at the same
time to the growing accentuation of the Asiatic elements. The
Mongol invasion, which finally overthrew the Seljuk civilization in
Asia, came to a halt before the gates of Egypt. Egypt's brilliant
period ended only when she lost her political independence and
became subject to a foreign people from Central Asia, viz. the
Osman Turks (1517").
A glance over the historical development thus briefly sketched
shows at once why the Islamic civilization cannot properly be named
after any particular nation ; from the very first it was a hybrid civi-
lization resting upon the international basis of religion. Yet amid
all the mingling of the various constituent elements, amid all the
confused shiftings of peoples, one unifying principle is clear: wi-
the steady growth of Asiatic Ideas. Ante-dating Islam, the process
had begun in a reaction against Greek intellectual supremacy and
Koman political dominion; European fetters were burst asunder and
shaken off; and in the course of subsequent development both the
Near East and Egypt passed under the direct influence of Asiatic
conceptions, first in the intellectual and finally also in the political
sphere. Rut that accomplished, the vital ethnic force and the in-
tellectual energy of Asia were exhausted. This is the true reason of
the striking decline of Islam under Osman rule. Its civilization
has culminated; strength fails it for a renaissance. At the present
day, just as in the Hellenistic period, the European spirit and Euro-
pean domination are pressing forward in the East. This western move-
ment in the historical process will certainly be followed by an eastern
reaction. In any case only the form and not the essence will be com-
mon to the East and West in the intellectual sphere so long as racial
difl'erences exist amon^ nations.
Doctrines of £1-Isl&m + . El-Islam counts to-day about 260 mil-
lion confessors, mostly in Asia and Africa, but to be found in all
the other continents also, including Australia. It is rapidly extend-
ing, especially in Africa. Almost the entire population of Egypt
(about 913/4 per cent) is Mohammedan.
+ Partly from the former article by the late Prof. A. Socin.
Ixxxiv TIT. EL-TSrAM.
Mohammed^ the founder of the religion, son of 'Abdalldh, was
born at Mecca about 570 A.D. and at the age of forty announced him-
self as a prophet. As he found no acceptance in his native Mecca,
he emigrated in 622 to Medina. This was the famous Hegrra or Uljra
(quite erroneously translated 'flight'), the date of which, on the in-
troduction of the Mohammedan calendar, was fixed as 16th Jtxly, 622.
At Medina he met with more success, and from the position of a
kind of magistrate he rose to be the head of a new state. After years
of fighting he captured Mecca in 630, but two years later he died at
Medina in the prime of life. Mohammed never represented himself
as anything beyond a mortal man, but in legend, which in the East
lias the authority of history, he is invested \\ith the halo of the
miraculous. God, it is said, created the Light of the Prophet even
before the creation of the divine throne; and this Light wandered
through all the generations of men until it manifested itself at the
centre of the world in the best of created beings, a noble scion of
the noblest family of Mecca. Angels, opening the breast of the
boy, expunged the last drop of sin from his heart. A little later the
Archangel Gabriel brought him the Kevelations, the Korans, which
were then formed into a book. Mohammed wrought many miracles
and even raised the dead to life, as in the case of his parents, who
turned their brief resurrection to account by embracing Islam. Among
his most celebrated feats was the splitting of the moon and his
nocturnal journey (mi'rSg) on a miraculous steed from Jerusalem to
heaven, where he treated with the Deity as to the number of prayers
to be offered by the faithful.
The starting-point of Mohammed's teaching was the conception
of the Last Judgment. Borrowing the conviction of a future life and
of future rewards and punishments from the Jews and Christians, who
were found all over Arabia, Mohammed exhorted his careless fellow-
countrymen, who lived merely from day to day, to adopt a more
serious conception of life. Paradise and hell were drawn by him in
striking colours. The idea of the Judgment involves the idea of a
just and single deity; from the beginning, therefore, Mohammed had
to preach the strictest monotheism in opposition to the fetishism of
the Arabs. This he named IdCini, i.e. resignation to the will of God.
He believed at first that Christianity and Judaism were identical,
and he desired to bring the same glad gospel to the Arabs. When he
learned the real historical relation of these faiths, he postulated an
ascending series of revelations, culminating in Islam. At Medina he
at first endeavoured to accommodate himself to the doctrines of the
Jewish community there, but soon finding this impossible he shook
himself free of both Christian and Jewish fetters, although he sdll
adhered to Abraham (Ibrahim), who was venerated by Jews and
Christians alike and was, moreover, according to the Bible Ihe an-
cestor, through Ishmael, of the Arabs. The ancient temple of stone
at Mecca, the Kaaba (^Ka'ba, i.e. cube), became to him an analogue of
m. EL-ISLAM. Ixxxv
iLo temple of Jenisalein. The entire native creed of tlie Meccaiis was
le-iuterpreted on an Abrahauiistit basis, so tbat its incorporation
with Islam was rendered possible. On the other hand the reception
of Islam by the Meccans was equally facilitated. In addition to this
assertion of religious independence the Begira had another conse-
quence of great moment for the future of Islam: the position of
the Prophet as also the head of a state entailed a mingling of polit-
ical and religious life. And as a matter of fact the present maik-
edly political character of Islam is a result of this short-lived
tlieocracy. Mohammed further had dollnite conceptions of a revealed
religion, for whicli he deemed necessary a sacred book, a prophet,
and a fixed ritual with recitations and liturgies. But at the date of
his death neither Islamic law nor dogma, not even the number of
daily prayers, was lixed and determined. The comprehensive system
now known as the religion of Islam gradually grow uj) in the course
of time.
The foundation is the Koran (p. Ixxxix), the very word of God,
which was collected and published as early as 650 A.D. This con-
tains few rescripts or laws. Next to it as a rule of conduct ranks the
Sunna, the practice of the Prophet and his earliest associates. To
follow this example in all its details became, doubtless under the
influence of the Jewish spirit, the aim of every believer. The Siiuua
was glossed by the sayings of the Prophet and by reports as to his
practice and as to the things that he suffered to happen without
comment. These formed the traditions or Hadiths. Originally the
Ifadiths were substantially genuine, but in the course of the general
effort to live as the Prophet did they Anally became the literary
vehicles of religious controversy. To sift them and to harmonize
their contradictory sayings has given rise to a science of itself. In
this process the consensus or agreement of the learned (Igmd') was
the deciding authority, which thus became axxthoritative over the
Sunna, and indeed over the Koran itself, for only the Igma' was able
rightly to interpret the Koran. The early scholars of Islam too re-
ceived the Igma' as the most important principle of development
next to the Sunna and the Koran.
Founded on the Koran, the Sunna, and thelgma', Mohammedan Law
has been developed into a canonical system, embracing every depart-
ment of life, in the manner of the Jewish and Christian systems.
When the Arabs became masters of the ancient civilized countries
of the Near East, there arose at once a crop of unforeseen legal pro-
blems, which had to be solved according to the Sunna, or at least in
their spirit. The impulse to independent legal activity in the newly-
conquered lands was given (as in the 'Irak by Abu Hariifa^ d. 767)
by the pre - Justinian Roman law that had been accepted by the
Christian church. Against this intellectual independence, which
allowed room for differences of opinion, arose the orthodox party at
Medina (iWuii.t Ihn Anas; d. 795), who admitted only the letter of
IxxxTi III. EL-ISLAM.
the ancient tradition. Afterwards a cotopiomise was attained by tbe
admission of analogous decisions (Kiyas), as a legal-theological prin-
ciple [Esh- Shdfi'i, d. 820). A considerable number of schools of
jurisprudence (madhhab, pi. madhdhib) arose, named after their
founders ; but of these only four tinally survived : the Mdlikites, Hane-
fites, Shdfi'ites, and Hanbalites (^pronounced Hambalites). In Egypt
the Shafi^ites and Malikites are most influential to-day ; in Turkey,
the Hanefites; in West Africa, the Malikites. The Hanbalites, re-
stricted to Arabia, are of inferior importance. Every believer must
belong to one or other of these rites or schools (which are not
sects). They mutually recognize each other as orthodox and differ
only in their distribution of actions among the five recognized classes
of 'commanded', 'recommended', 'indifferent', 'blameworthy', and
'forbidden'. The science of law is known as Fikh (recognition). It
forms practically the entire sphere of Islamic mental activity. Its
results, varying slightly according to the rites and adapting them-
selves to the interpretation of each, constitute the Shert'a, or Shar',
the holy law. It contains the collection of those precepts from the
Koran and the Sunna that have been approved by the Igma' and are
therefore authoritative. Certain later text-books also have attained
a certain canonical authority. The theologian who is officially en-
trusted with the exposition of the law is called Mufti, his decision
Fetwd. The chief mufti bears the title Sheikh uH-lsldm. These ex-
perts are necessary, for only the learned can grasp the eiijtire com-
plicated system. These learned men ('Ulamd, sing. 'AUm) and
jurists (Fukahd, sing. Fakth) resemble Jewish scribes rather than
Christian priests. A sinner may reckon upon divine pardon even if
he transgress the precepts of the Sheri^a daily or hourly, but if he
doubt their theoretical authority he is an infidel. This is why Moham-
medans are always ready to fly to arms when the Sheri'a is threatened.
In practice they trouble themselves little about its precepts.
The five pillars {i.e. chief duties) of Islam are the profession of the
true faith (p. Ixxxviii), the repetition of the daily prayers, the pay-
ment of the charitable tax, the fast during Ramadan, and the pilgrim-
age to Mecca. Other matters dealt with by the Sheri'a are the laws
relating to family duties, inheritance, and marriage ; the manage-
ment of religious endowments ( Wakf, pi. Aukdf), which occupies a
ministerial department in Egypt ; and the regulation of ceremonies
and custom. The precepts of the law as regards these, being regarded
as religious in the narrower sense, are carried out in practice as far
as possible. In other matters, regarded as more theoretical (such as
constitutional law, criminal law, the law of real property, and the
law of obligations), local customary law ('Ada) has from the very
first outweighed the Sheri'a. The distinction between the 'Ada, the
commands of custom, and the Sheri'a, the commands of religion, is
recognized in every sphere of Islamii" life. The extent to which the
Sherfa prevails in any country is a measure of the real strength of
m. EL-ISLAM.
Ixxxvii
Islam in that country. At times of fanatical excitement its prescrip-
tions are fulfilled with unusual zeal. Among uneducated people the
'Ada and the Sheri'a are naturally often identified.
The hours of Pkatek (saldt) are proclaimeil live times a day by the
muezzius (mn'eUdin) from the minarets of the mosques: (1) Maghrib, a
little after sunset; {2)'Ishcft, nightfall, about l>/2 hour after sunset; (3) '%&/',
daybreak; (4) pnhr, midday; (b)'Asr, afternoon, about 3 hours after mid-
day. On Fridays the midday recital of prayer takes place three quarters
of an hour eai'lier than usual and is followed by a sermon. Friday, how-
ever, is not rejrardcd as a day of rest in the Christian sense. The sonorous
call of the mue/./.in is as follows : AUdhu akbar (three times) ; afh/uidu anna
Id ild/ia illatluh; ashhadu anna Huhammedan rasOlulldk (twice); fieiya
'ala\jsaldh (twice); heiya 'ata'lfaldli (twice); AUdhu akbar (twice); Id ildha
iUaiidh; i.e. 'Allah is greatest; I testify that there is no God but Allah,
1 testily that Jlobammcd is the apostle of Allah; come to prayer; come to
worship; Allah is greatest; there is no God but Allah'. — The duty of
washing before prayer is enforced by the ritual. In the desert the faithful
are permitted to use sand for this religious ablution. The person praying
must remove his shoes or sandals and turn his face towards Mecca, as the
Jews used to turn towards Jerusalem. He begins his orisons by lioldin;^
his hands to the lobes of hi^^ ears, then a little below his girdle, and he
interrupts his recitations from the Koran with certain prostrations in a
given order. The most usual prayer is the first Sureh of the Koran, one
of the shortest, which is used as we employ the Lord's prayer. It is
called el-fdtUa ('the commencing') and is to the following ertect: — 'In
the name of God, the merciful and gracious. Praise be to God, the Lord
of the worlds, the merciful and gracious, the Prince of the day of judg-
ment; Thee we serve, and to Thee we pray for help; lead us in the right
way of those to whom thou hast shown mercy, upon whom no wrath
resteth, and who go not astray. Amen'. Alter praying the Moslem looks
over his right, then over his left shoulder, in greeting to the two recording
angels who write down his good and evil actions.
The Charitable Ta.x (zakdt)- is a high religious ta.x upon properly
graduated accirding to the kind of property, and earmarked for certain
Ixxxviii 111. EL-ISLAM.
purposes, cLietly charily and the 'holy war'. Now, however, it is paid ■
only by the very pious. But in relijiious rl=ings the zakat is an inexhaustible
source of supply. A special kind of charitable tax, called the zaMt el-fitr,
or tax for breaking the fast, is almost universal.
For the Fast (^6m) of the month Ramadan, the third of the chief duties
of Islam, comp. p.' xcvi.
For the Pilgrimage to Mecca (hagg) the pilgrims assemble ut parti-
cular points. Those from Egvpt usually proceed by sea to Jidda on the
Ked Sea (p. 424). On approaching Mecca the pilgrims undress, laying aside
even their headgear, and put on aprons and a piece of cloth over the left
shoulder. They then perform the circuit of the Kaaba, kiss the black stone,
hear the sermon on Mt. 'Arafat near Mecca, pelt Satan with stones in' the
valley of Muua, and conclude their pilgrimage with a great sacrificial
feast. On the day when this takes place at, Mecca, sheep are slaughtered
and a festival called the Great Bairam (El-'Jd el-Kehir) is observed through-
out all the Mohammedan countries. The conduct of the caravan, with
the gifts presented to the town of Mecca, the escort, and other items,
costs the Egyptian government more than 50,000i. annually.
Other Religious PiiECEPTS forbid the use of intoxicating liquors or of
the flesh of swine and the eating of the flesh of any animal not slaughter-
ed in the prescribed fashion or of blood. The position of women is clear-
ly defined. Every Moslem is permitted to have four wives at a time,
though monogamy is the rule, owing to economic conditions. A woman
has full rights under the law of property, but under the law of succes-
.^ion and as a witness she is regarded as equivalent only to half a man.
The practice of veiling women, usual in the higher circles, is a matter
coming under the 'ada not the sheri'a (p. Ixxxvi); except in the towns
women are usually seen unveiled. The ease with which Islam permits
divorce is a grave moral danger; in Mecca, for example, prostitution exists
under the form of marriage. Further details as to Islamic law may be
found in the 'Handbuch des islamischen Gesetzes'', hy Th. W. Juynboll of
I.eyden (Leipzig, 1908-10; 9 marks), a work adapted for the layman as
well as for the legal expert.
Dogma by no means plays sucli an important part in Islam as in
Christianity ; for the simple Moslem creed is embodied in the words :
'There is no God but God (Allah) and Mohammed is the prophet
of God'. But all the same lively controversies over dogma have not
been absent in the development of Islam, mainly owing to the in-
fluence of Grffico-Christian modes of thought. Just as in the sphere
of law, we find here a literal and a speculative interpretation; and
in the sphere of dogma also orthodoxy triumphed by adopting the
speculative method in a modified form. The process of amalgama-
tion is generally associated with the name of El-Ash'ari (d. 935).
The questions most eagerly canvassed were those relating to the free-
dom of the will, the attributes of God, and the nature of the Koran
[i.e. whether it is 'eternal' or 'created'). The orthodox solutions of
these problems are roughly as follows. There is but one God, in
whom certain universal attributes inhere (knowledge, seeing, hear-
ing, etc.), but who must not be conceived of under a human form.
He is all-mighty and has therefore created also evil, which serves
his purposes of salvation in a manner inconceivable by our limited
human intelligence. Above all, God is the Creator, who at every
moment re-creates all things. Causality is merely the creative opera-
tion of the divine will. In this connection man is not free, for every-
thing is immutably foreordained by God's will. God operates every-
111. EL-LSLAM. Ixxxix
thiug iu man, but, man is nevertheless responsible, according as
he assents to or dissents from the operations of God. The Koran,
like the Logos of the Christians, is conceived of as uncreated and
co-existent with God from all eternity; hut on the other hand the
Koran committed to the Prophet by the augel Gabriel is created.
The cardinal points whicli every Moslem is bound to hold are the
beliefs in God and the angels, in written ^e^elation and the pro-
]>hets, and in the last judgment and predestination.
God as'd thk Angels. Niuety-niue of the different altributes of God
were afterwards gatbered t'r.im the Eorun, each of whicli is represented
by a bead of the Mo>lem ro^^ary. Great imporlauce is attached to the fact
that the creation of the world was etlected by a simple ellort of the divine
will. (God said 'Let there be", and there was.) The story ol the creation
in the Koran is taken from the Bible, with variations fi'Oni Kabbinieal-
Persian, and other sources. God iirst created his throne; beneath th>'
throne was water; then the earth was formed. In order to kcei' the earth
steady God created an angel and placed him on a huge rock, which iu
its turn rests on the back and horns of the bull of the world.
In connection with the creation of the Armament was that of the
Jinn (demons), beings occupying a middle rank between men and angels,
some of them believing others unbelieving. When the jinn became
arrogant an angel was ordered to banish them, and he accordingly drove
them to the mountains of Kaf by which the earth is sui-rounded, whence
Ihey occasionally make incursions. Adam was then created, on the even-
ing of the sixth day, and the Moslems on that account oh.^erve Friday a.s
their Sabbath. As the angel who conquered the jinn refused to bow down
before Adam, he was exiled and thenceforward called Jblit, or the devil.
After this Adam himself fell and became a solitary wanderer, but was
afterwards re-united to Eve at Mecca, where the sacred stone in the Kaabu
derives its black colour from Adam's tears. Adam is regarded as the
first Orthodox Moslem.
The Angels are the bearers of God's throne and execute his commands.
They act also as mediators between God and men. While there are legions
of good angels, there are also innumerable satellites of Satan, who seduce
men to error.
Weiitkn Eevelation aso the Pkophets. The earliest men were all
believers, but they afterwards fell away from the true faith. A revelation
therefore became necessary. The prophets are very numerous, amountinii
in all, it is said, to 124,000; but they difler very much in rank. They
are free from all gross sins and are endowed Vjy God with power to work
miracles, which power forms their credentials; nevertheless they are
generally derided and disbelieved. The greater prophets are -idajn, ^'oah.
Abraham, Moses, Jesus, and Mohammed, Jesus being the next greatest after
Mohammed. Moses and Christ prophesied the advent of Mohammed, who
is the promised Paraclete, the Comforter (St. John xiv. 16), the last and
greatest of the prophets. He confirms previous revelations but his appear-
ance has superseded them.
The Koran (Koran), the name of which signifies 'rehearsal', or 'read-
ing', is divided Into 114 chapters or parts called SHrehs. The tirst revel-
ation vouchsafed to the Pruphet took place in the 'blessed night' in the
year 609. With many interruptions the 'sending down' of the Koran
extended over twenty-three years, until the whole book was in the prophet's
possession. The earlier or Meccan surehs, placed at the end of the book
on account of their brevity, are characterized by great freshness and vigour
of style. In the longer surehs of a later period the style is more studied
and the narrative often tedious. The Koran is nevertheless regarded as
the masterpiece of Arabic literature.
The best English translations of the Koran are those oi E. /Sa2e(1734;
obtainable in a cheap form or with a preliminary discourse and copious
notes, edit, by Kev. E. M. Wherry, lb82-86, 4 vols.); Rodwell (London,
xc III. EL-ISLAM.
1861 ; 2nd edit., 1878J ; and Falmer (London, 1880). See also Sir William Muiv,
'The Cdran, its Composition and Teaching' (1878); T. W. Arnold, 'The
Preaching of Islam' (2nd edit.; London, 1913; 12*. 6d.).
Last Jcdgment. The doctrine of the resurrection has been highly
elaborated in the Koran and subsequent tradition; but its main features
have doubtless been borrowed from the Christians, as has also the appear-
ance of Antichrist, and the part to be played by Christ at the Last Day.
On that day Christ will establish Islam as the religion of the world.
Before him will re-appear the Makdi, the 'well-directed one', the twelfth
Imam (p. xtiii), who will establish the Islamic ideal empire and will render
Islamic law supreme. The Last Judgment will begin on the appearance
of Christ. The first trumpet-blast of the angel Asrdfil will kill every
living being; a second will awaken the dead. Then follows the Judgment;
the righteous cross to Paradise by a bridge of a hair's breadth, while the
wicked fall from the bridge into the abyss of hell. At the Judgment every
man is judged according to the books of the recording angels (p. Ixxxvii).
The book is placed in the right hand of the good, but is bound in the
left hand of the wicked behind their backs. The scales in which good
and evil deeds are weighed play an important part in deciding the soul's
fate, and the doctrine of the efficacy of works ia carried so far that it is
believed works of supererogation may be placed to the credit of other
lielievers. Hell, as well as heaven, has different grades; and Islam as-
sumes the existence also of a purgatory, from which release is possible.
Paradise is depicted by Mohammed as a place of entirely material delights.
Mysticism, the third great brauch of religious thought under
Islam, aims at an immediate union with the divine on the basis of
emotion, in contradistinction to the hair-splitting of the dogmatists
and to the doctrine of the efficacy of works taught by the moralists.
The mystics seek their end in two ways. On the one hand they
bridge over the vast gulf between God and humanity by the con-
ception of mediators with God, viz. Saints, who with reference to
an expression in the Koran are known as 'those who stand near
God' (Auliya, sing. Walt); and on the other hand, by emotional
exercises in company, they aim at producing an ecstatic exaltation
of mind, i.e. the immediate blending of their own individuality
with that of the Deity. The latter is the explanation of the practices
of the grders of dervishes (p. xci). In the worship of saints, which
centres principally at tombs and ancient holy sites, we trace the
same popular polytheistic tendencies as appear in Christianity,
connected with the primitive traditions of the heroic age. A not
unwarrantable attempt has been made to deduce the fundamental
forms of early Semitic religious conceptions from the practices
current to-day in the Islamic saint-worship. The recognition of
saints became possible in Islam when Mohammed himself was
exalted above the infirmities of humanity. The tomb of Moham-
med at Medina and that of his grandson Hosein at Kerbela be-
came particularly famous, and every little town soon boasted of the
tomb of its particular saint. In many of the villages the traveller
will observe small dome-covered buildings with grated windows.
These are saints' tombs and are called ''Sheikhs'' (comp. p. clxxxiii).
'Sheikh' also means a chief or old man. Shreds of cloth are often
seen suspended from the gratings of these tombs, or on certain trees
m. EL-ISLAM. xci
which are cousidered sacred, having been placed there by devout
persons or by those vcho have made vows. About the end of the
i8th century a reaction against the abuses of Islam sprang up in
Central Arabia. The Wahabis, named after their founder 'Aid
el-Wahhdb, endeavoured to restore the religion to its original pur-
ity; they destroyed all tombs of saints, including even those of
^lohammed and Ilosein, as objects of superstitious reverence, and
sought to restore the primitive simplicity of the prophet's code of
morals. As a political power, however, they were suppressed by
Mohammed Ali (p. cxxi).
Another development quite foreign to the original spirit of
Islam is that of the Religious Orders (Turulc, sing. Tauka), or
Orders of Dervishes. Starting with the Christian doctrine of as-
ceticism (hence Darwish, Fak'ir, poor man, Sufi, man in a woollen
shirt), the mystics early borrowed Neo-Platonic (Dionysos Areo-
pagita) and subsequently also Buddhist ideas. Even the Buddhist
nirvana was adopted under the form of fand, the destruction of
individuality. As a natural consequence pantheistic and other
heresies found their way into Islam. The orthodox party long
opposed the recognition of the mystics, and mysticism did not effect
its footing until the time of the celebrated philosopher Ohazzdli.
To-day all those orders that accept the formulae of the faith and the
received doctrine of religious duties are recognized as orthodox.
Each order has its own fixed system, with an ascending series of
degrees. A man may reach the lower degrees in several different
orders, the higher degrees in one only. A member enters an order
with a view to obtain a share in the blessings of certain forms,
which have been consecrated by the founder of the order and are
maintained in its traditions. The zikrs, or religious exercises, are
directed towards producing a state of mental excitement by means
of pious invocations or dancing (hence howling dervishes, dancing
dervishes; comp. p. 71); the souls of those who reach a condition
of ecstasy are considered to be absorbed in the Deity. These orders
represent in the East the religious and other associations of Europe;
and this fact is the key to their significance. They are more im-
portant economically than politically, though great political move-
ments, even in recent times, have been brought about by organi-
zations resembling these orders, as, e.g., the insurrection of the
Mahdi at Khartiim. The original orders were few, but numerous
subdivisions have in course of time established themselves on an
independent footing. In Egypt all the orders are under the control
of the Sheikh el-Bekrl, who is the political representative of their
interests and presides at public functions.
The following are the principal orders of dervishes (tarikai ed dav&wish)
in Egypt: —
(1) Thp Rifd'ineh (sing, rifd'i) , an order founded by Seiyid Ahmed
er-Ritu'i el-Koblr, are recognizable by their black flags and black, dai-k
blue, or bluish-green turbans. The best-known branches of this order are
xuii m. EL-ISLAM.
the tfldd 'Jlwdn, or ' Uuidniyeh Dervishes^ aud the Ha'diych Dervishes. The
former are noted for their extraordinary performances at festivals, sach
as thrusting iron nails into their eyes aud arms, breaking large stones
against their chests, as they lie on their backs on the ground, and swallow-
ing burning charcoal and fragments of glass. The Sa'diyeh, who usually
carry green tlags, are snake-charmers (p. xxvii). — Belonging to this group
but actually independent and ]>eculiar to Egypt, are —
(2j The Ahmediyeh (sing, ahmedi), the order of the Egyptian national
saint Sciyid Ahmed el-Bedawi, who is buried at Tauta (p. 33). They
are recognized by their red banners and red turbans. This order is
divided into many branches, but of these the two most important only need
be mentioned. One of these is the much respected Baiyimiyeh or Shinnd-
whjch, who play an important part in the ceremonies at Tania (p. 33j.
The other branch is that of the IJldd NHh, who are generally young men
wearing high pointed caps and carrying wooden swords aud a kind of
wliip. — Connected with this group by a mystic genealogy are —
(3) The Mirghaniyeh or Ehatmiyeli ^ an order conspicuous for the energy
of its zikrs on dervish festivals {e.g. the Muljd of the ProphetJ. The
Nubians have joined this order in large numbers, and it is wide-spread
also in the Sudan. — To the same group belong —
(4) The Burhdmiyeh, the order of Ibrahim ed-Besuki (p. 32), an ex-
ceedingly popular saint in Egypt. Their colour is green.
(5) The Kddiriyeh (sing, koidiri) , one of the most widely distributed
orders, founded by the celebrated Seiyid 'Abd el-Kadir cl-Gilaui, arc
quite indeiiendcnt. Their banners and turbans are white.
In additiiin to these there are 30-40 less important orders and sects.
The Turkish order of the ifevUvis (comp. p. 71) discharge the religious
functions connected with the Khedive's court.
A few words may be added on the Sects, tliougk sectarianism is
much less important in Islam than in other religions. Mohammedan
sects separate on a point of constitutional law, the question Ijeing
which of the early caliphs were the legitimate successors of Moham-
med. The Orthodox Party, which alone prevails in Egypt, recognizes
all the 'rightly directed' caliphs — Abu Bekr, Omar, 'Othman,
and'Ali. The Shiites (from Slua, party, i.e. the party of'Ali) regard
'All and his sons Hasan and Hosein as the only legitimate caliphs
and imams Q.e. leaders in prayer), the twelfth [or seventh) of
whom is believed to be awaiting in concealment the day of restor-
ation. The fChdregites recognize only Abu Bekr and Omar. All the
sects have their traditions, and when the Shiites are said to reject
tlie Sunna, the remark applies only to the orthodox Sunna. Their
Sunna has developed in the same manner as that of the Orthodox,
but along different lines. The same is true of all the Moslem sects.
Egypt has been under a Shiite re'gime only in the time of the
Fatimites, who recognized the seventh Imam. This dynasty called
themselves after Fatima, daughter of the Prophet and wife of 'All,
from whom they claimed descent. They professed a secret doctrine
which resulted in scepticism.
ra. MOHAMMEDAN CUSTOMS. xciii
Bomarks on Mohammedan Customs.
The rite of circuineision is performed on boys up to tlie age of
six or seven, or even later, the ceremony being attended witli great
pomp. Tlie child is previously conducted through the streets in holiday
attire; in order to diminish the expense of the proceedings, tlie
procession is frequently united with some bridal party, or two or
more boys are driven together in a carriage. The boy generally
wears a turban of red cashmere, girls' clothes of the richest poss-
ible description, and conspicuous female ornaments, which are
ilesigneil to attract attention and thus avert the evil eye from his
person. He half covers his face with an embroidered handkerchief;
and the barber wlio performs the operation and a noisy troop of
musicians head the procession. The first personage in the procession
is usually the barber's boy, carrying the ^heml\ or barber's sign, a
kind of cupboard made of wood, in the form of a half-cylinder, with
four short legs.
Girls are generally married in their I2th or 1.3th, and some-
times as early as their iOth year. A man in search of a bride
employs the services of a relative or of a professional female match-
maker, and he never has an opportunity of seeing his bride until
the wedding-day, except when the parties belong to the lowest
classes. When everythiTig is arranged, the affianced bridegroom
has to pay a bridal -portion (mnhr) amounting to about 25 Z., less
being paid when the bride is a widow. Generally speaking, about
two-thirds of the sum, the amount of which always forms a subject
of lively discussion, is paid ilown, while one-third is settled upon
the wife, being payable on the death of the husband or on his
divorcing her against her will. Before the wedding the bride is
conducted in gala attire and with great ceremony to the bath. This
procession is called ^Zeffet el-Hnmmi\m. It is headed by several
musicians with hautbois and drums ; these arc followed by several
married female friciuls aiul relatives of the bride in pairs, aTid after
these come a number of young girls. The bride follows, under a
silken canopy opeii in front. In Cairo, however, this canopy is now
generally replaced by a carriage of some kind. The shrieks of joy
which women of the lower classes utter on such occasions are called
zaghar'it (sing, zaghruta). The bride is afterwards conducted with
the same formalities to the house of her hTisband.
The ceremonies observed at funerals are not less remarkable
than those that attend weddings. If the death occurs in the morn-
ing, the funeral takes place the same day ; but if in the evening,
it is postponed till next day. Tlie body is washed and mourned
over by the family and the professional mourning women (nedda-
beh); the filch, or schoolmasters, read several silrehs of the Koran
by its side ; after this, it is wrapped in its white or green winding
sheet, placed on the bier, and then carried forth in solemn pro-
xciv III. MOHAMMEDAN CUSTOMS.
cession. The foremost persons in the cortege are usually six or more
poor, and generally blind, men, who walk in twos or threes at a
slow pace, chanting the creed — 'There is no God hut God ; Moham-
med is the ambassador of God ; God be gracious to him and preserve
him !' These are followed by several male relatives of the deceased,
and sometimes by a number of dervishes with the flags of their
order, and then by a few boys, one of whom carries a copy of the
Koran. The boys usually chant in a loud and shrill voice several
passages from the '"Hashrlyeli, a poem describing the last judgment.
The bier, with the head of the deceased foremost, comes next,
being borne by three or four of his friends, who are relieved from
time to time by others. After the bier come the female relatives,
with dishevelled hair, sobbing aloud, and frequently accompanied
by professional mourning women, whose business it is to extol the
merits of the deceased. If the deceased was the husband or father
of the family one of the cries is : '0 thou camel of my house', the
camel being the emblem of the bread-winner of the household.
The body is first carried into that mosque for whose patron saints
the relatives entertain the greatest veneration, and prayers are
there offered on its behalf. The body is then borne to the cemetery,
where it is laid in the tomb in such a position that the face is
turned towards Mecca.
Among the women are the relatives and friends of the deceased,
distinguished by a strip (usually blue) of linen, cotton, or muslin
bound round the head, with the end hanging down behind. Men
wear no mourning clothes. The women, especially in the country,
frequently put dust on their brows and breasts, a practice which is
a survival from antiquity, as may be seen on comparing the re-
presentations of ancient funerals at Thebes and elsewhere. Rich
men or pious sheikhs and 'ulamas are buried with greater pomp,
to which religious fraternities and dervishes with their flags contri-
bute ; water is distributed ; and the riding-horse and a buffalo are
led in the procession. The buffalo is slaughtered at the tomb and
its flesh distributed among the poor.
Another custom peculiar to the Moslems is the separation of
the sexes even after death. In family-vaults one side is set apart
for the men, the other for the women (comp. p. clxsxiii). Between
these vaults is the entrance to the tomb, usually covered with a
single large slab. The vaults are high enough to admit of the
deceased sitting upright in them when he is being examined by
the angels Munkar and Nektr on the first night after his interment.
m. RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS.
Mohammedan Calendar. Festivals.
The Mohammedan era begins with July 16th of the year 62'2 A.I)., be-
ing the day of Mohammed's so-called flight (Hegira) from Mecca to Me-
dina (p. Ixxxiv). The Mohammedan year is purely lunar and has no refer-
ence or relation to the sun; it contains 354 days, op 355 in leap-year.'J,
eleven of which occur in each cycle of 30 years. There are 12 months,
the first, third, etc.. of which have 29 days each, the second, fourth, etc.,
30 days. Their names arc given at p. xxxix.
In order approximately to convert a year of our era into one of the
Moslem era, subtract 622, divide the remainder by 38, and add the quotient
to the dividend; or, subtract 622, multiply the result by 1.0307 and add
0.46. Conversely, a year of the Mohammedan era is converted into one of
the Chri.'tian era by dividing it by 33, subtracting the quotient from it,
and adding B2'2 to the remainder. Or, multiply the Mohammedan year
by 2.977, divide the result bv 100. subtract the quotient from the Moham-
medan year, and add 621.569. On Nov. 29th, 1913, began the Moslem
year 1332.
The Gregorian calendar was introduced into Egypt in 1875, but is
observed by government in the finance department only. For all other
purposes the Mohammedan calendar is used, and the dates even of iixed
festivals cannot easily be stated according to the European computation
of time. Calendars reducing the Mohammedan and Coptic reckoning of
time to the European system may. however, be obtained at any bookseller's.
The Almanac issued yearly by the Government Publications Office in
Cairo may be recommended (price 5 pias.); it contains a number of other
useful details.
Keligious Festivals. The first month of the Arabian year is the
MoHARREM, the first ten days of which ('ashar), and particularly the 10th
(!/6))i 'as/iOra), are considered holy. On these days alms are distributed
and amulets purchased. Mothers, even of the upper classes, carry their
children on their shoulders, or cause them to be carried, through the
streets, and sew into the children's caps the copper coins presented to
them by passers-by. On the 10th Moharrem, the highly revered 'AshHra
day, on which Adam and Eve are said first to have met after their ex-
pulsion from Paradise, on which Koah is said to have left the ark, and on
which Hosein, the grandson of the Prophet, fell as a martyr to his religion
at the battle of Kerbela, the Garni' Seiyidna'l-Hosein (p. 54) is visited
about 8 p.m. by a vast concourse of noisy religious devotees. Troops of Per-
sians in long white robes parade the streets, cutting themselves with swords
in the forehead until the blood streams down and stains their snowy gar-
ments. Two bovs, representing Hasan and Hosein, are led throngh tbe
streets on horseback, with blood-stained clothes.
At the end of Safar, the second month, or at the beginning of liahi'
el-Auteil, the third, the Mecca Caravan (p. Ixxxviiij returns home. Its approach
is heralded by outriders and some enthusiasts advance three days to meet it.
Detached groups of pilgrims occasionally return before the rest of the caval-
cade, and their arrival is always signalized by the blowing of trumpets and
beating of drums. A pyramidal wooden erection, called the Afahmal, hung
with beautifully embroidered stufl's, and carried by a camel, accompanies
the procession as a symbol of royalty. The interior of the Mahmal is
empty, and to the outside of it are attached two copies of the Koran. The
procession usually enters the city by the Bab en-Nasr (p. 77). In 1V2-2 hrs.
it reaches the Place Saladin ip. 68), the large open space in front of the
citadel, from which last twelve cannon-shots are fired as a salute. The
cortege finally enters the citadel through the Bab el-Wezir. The departure
of the pilgrims is attended with similar ceremonies (comp. p. xcvil.
The great festival of the Mdlid en-Nehi. the birthday of the prophet,
is celebrated at the beginning of RABf el-Auwii, the third month. The
preparations for it begin on the second day of the month, and the most
important ceremonies take place on the evening of the eleventh. The
xoYi in. RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS.
city, particularly the scene of the festival, at 'Abbasiyeh (p. 78), is then
illuminated by means of lamps hung on wooden stands (kdim) made for
the purpose. Processions of dervishes (p. xci) parade the streets with flags
by day and with lamps by night. The Ddseh, or ceremony of riding over
the dervi.shes, which also took place on the twelfth of this month, was
suppressed by the Khedive Taufik, and the ceremonies are now confined
to the sheikh's walking over some dervishes, his procession, and the read-
ing of the Koran in the Khedive's tent. At night a great zikr (p. xci) is
performed by the dervishes. On this festival, as on all the other 'mulids',
the jugglers, buffoons, shadow-players, and other ministers of amusement
(corap. pp. xxvi, xxvii), ply their calling with great success.
In the fourth month, that of R.\Bf el-Akhir (Rabf et-Tdni), occurs
the peculiarly solemn festival of the birthday or Aliltid of Hosein, the pro-
phet's grandson, the principal scene of which is the mosque of Hosein
(p. 54). This festival lasts fifteen days and fourteen nights, the most im-
portant day being always a Tuesday (y6m et-taldt). On the chief days,
and on their eves, the Koran is read aloud to the people, the streets ad-
joining the mosque are illuminated, the shops are kept open, and story-
tellers, jugglers, and others of the same class attract numerous patrons.
In the middle of Regeb, the seventh month, is the MUiid of Seiyideh
Zeinab ('Our Lady Zeinab'J, the granddaughter of the prophet. The fes-
tival, which lasts fourteen days, the most important being a Tuesday, is
celebrated at tlie mosque of the Seiyideh Zeinab (p. 74). — On the 27th of
th^s month is the Leilet el-Mi'rdg, or night of the ascension of the prophet
(p. l.Kxxiv), the celebration of which takes place outside the Bab el-'Adawi,
in the N. suburb of Cairo.
On the first, or sometimes on the second, Wednesday of Sha'ban, the
eighth month, the AMiid of Jmdm exh-Slidfi'% is commemorated, the centre
of attraction being the mosque men1i<ined at p. 115. This festival is
numerously attended, as most of the Cairenes belong to the school of Imam
Shaft"'! (p. IxxxviJ.
The month of Eamadan, the ninth, is the month of fasting, which
begins as soon as a Moslem declares that he has seen the new moon.
The fast is strictly observed during the day, but the faithful indemnify
themselves by eating, drinking, and smoking throughout the greater part
of the night. At dusk the streets begin to be thronged, the story-tellers in
the cafe's attract numbers of visitors, and many devotees assemble at the
mosques. The eve of the 27th of the month is considered peculiarly holy.
It is called the Leilet el-Kadi\ or 'night of honour', owing to the tradition
that the Koran was sent down to Mohammed on this night. During this
sacred night the angels descend to mortals with blessings, and the portals
of heaven stand open, afTording certain admission to the prayers of the
devout.
The month Eamadan is succeeded by that of Shauwal, on the first three
days of which is celebrated the first and minor festival of rejoicing, called
by the Arabs El-'td es-Sughaiyav (the lesser feast), but better known by its
Turkish name of Beirmn (Bairam). The object of the festival is to give
expression to the general rejoicing at the termination of the fast; and
as at our Christmas, parents give presents to their children, and masters
to their servants at this festive season. Friends embrace each other on
meeting, and visits of ceremony are exchanged. During this festival the
Khedive receives his principal officials, ambassadors, etc.
At this season the traveller may also pay a visit to the cemetery by
the Bab en-Na.sr, or to one of the others, where numerous Cairenes assemble.
A few days after the Bairam , the pieces of the Kisweh, or covering
manufactured at Constantinople, at the cost of the Sultan, for the Kaaba
(p. Ixxxiv), whither it is annually carried by the pilgrims, are conveyed
in procession to the citadel, where they are sewn together and lined.
The ceremonies which take place on this occasion are repeated on a
grander scale towards the end of the month of Shautodl (generally the 23rdj,
when there is a gay procession of the escort which accompanies the pil-
grimage caravan to Mecca and also takes charge of the Mahmal (p. xcv).
m. POPULAR FESTIVALS. xcvi
On this occasion every true believer in the prophet, if he possibly can
spends Ibe whole day in the streets. The women don their smartest attire
Many of the harem windows are opened and the veiled inmates gaze into
the streets. The chief scene of the ceremonies is the Place Saladin (p. 68l:
where a sumptuous tent of red velvet and gold is pitched for the reception
of the dignitaries. The procession is headed by soldiers, who are followed
by camels adorned with gaily coloured trappings and bearing on their
humps bunches of palm-branches with oranges attached. Each section of
the cavalcade is preceded by a band of Arab musicians, the largest section
being that which accompanies the Takhiarawdn, or litter of the Emir el-
Hagg, and the next in order that of the Deiil el-IJagg, or leader of the
pilgrims, with his attendants. Next follow various detachments of pilgrims
and dervishes with banners, and lastly the Slahmal.
On the, 10th of Dhdl-Higgkh, the twelfth month, begins the great fes-
tival of £■;-'/(/ el-Kebir (Kurbdn Beiram), which resembles the lesser feast
(el-'id es-sughaiyar) already mentioned. On this day, if on no other
throughout the year, every faithful Moslem eats a piece of meat in memory
of the sacrifice of Abraham, and the poor are presented with meat by
the rich.
With the Rising of the Nile also there are connected several inter-
esting festivals, closely resembling those of the ancient period of the
Pharaohs, which even the Christian epoch was unable entirely to ob-
literate. As, however, they take place in summer, few travellers will
have an opportunity of witnessing them. As these festivals have refer-
ence to a regularly recurring phenomenon of nature, their dates are ne-
cessarily fixed in accordance with the Coptic solar reckoning of time, in-
stead of the variable Arabian lunar year. — The night of the 11th of the
Coptic month Bauna (Juno 17tU) is called Leilet en-Nukta^ i.e. the 'night
of the drop', as it is believed that a drop from heaven (or a tear of Isis,
according to the ancient Egyptian myth) falls into the Nile on this night
and causes its rise. The astrologers profess to calculate precisely the
hour o the fall of the sacred drop. The Cairenes spend this night on
the banjks of the Nile, either in the open air or in the houses of friends
near the river, and practise all kinds of superstitious customs. One of
these consists in the placing of a piece of dough by each member of a
family on the roof of the house ; if the dough rises, happiness is in store
for the person who placed it there, while its failure to rise is regarded as
a bad omen. On the 21st of June the river begins slowly to rise. On the
'27th of the Coptic month Bauna (July 3rd) the Munddi en-Nil^ or Nile-
criers are frequently heard in the morning, announcing to the citizens the
number of inches that the river has risen. Each munadi is accompanied
by a boy, with whom he enters on a long religious dialogue by way of
preface to his statements, which, however, are generally inaccurate. The
next important day is the Day of the- Cutting of the Dam (y6vi gebr el-baki\ or
>/6m wefa el-bahv), about the middle of the Coptic month of Slisra (i.e. the
middle of August), when the principal ceremonies are performed to the N.
of the former Fumm el-Khalig (p. lOi). The Nile-crier, attended by boys
carrying flags, announces the Wefa en-Nil (i.e. superfluity of the Nile), or
period when the water has reached its normal height of about sixteen ells
(p. 105). The actual cutting through of the dam can no longer take place,
but the festivities go on as before.
Bakj>kkkk'« Egypt. 7th Edit.
IV. Outline of the History of Egypt.
I. Ancient History.
By Professor O. Steindorff.
a. From the Earliest Times to the Macedonian Conquest in 332 B.C.
Exact systems of clironology were as little known to the ancient
Egyptians as to the other peoples of antiquity. The events they
desired to record were dated according to the years of the king
reigning at the time. To determine at what period a particular king
had reigned, the priests drew iip long lists of monarchs, fragments
of which have survived to the present day (comp. pp. 87, 241, 275^.
The chronological epitomes, moreover, which are all that has been
transmitted to us of the 'Egyptian History' written in Greek hy the
priest Manethot, were founded .on these native registers. Manetho
arranged all the rulers of Egypt, from Menes, the first king, to
Alexander the Great, in 31 Dynasties, which correspond, generally
speaking, to the various royal houses that held sway in Egypt suc-
cessively or (at certain periods) contemporaneously. This arrange-
ment has been generally adopted by writers on the subject ; but at
the same time, for the sake of convenience, several dynasties are
frequently grouped together under the name of a 'period', 'empire', or
'kingdom'. It is impossible to assign anything like exact dates for
the kings before Psammetichos I. The dates, therefore, in the
following outline are given as approximate merely, and in the
earliest period may sometimes be even a century or more out.
1. Prehistoric Period (before 3400 B.C.).
The dark prehistoric period, which later traditions fill up with
dynasties of gods and demigods, is illumined by a few scattered
rays of light only. It may be taken as certain that the country
did not originally form one single kingdom, but was divided into
two states — the 'Northern', corresponding to the Delta, and the
'Southern', stretching from the neighbourhood of Memphis (Cairo) to
the Gebel Silsileh, and afterwards to the First Cataract. Each of
these states was subdivided into a number of small principalities,
originally independent but afterwards dependent, which still existed
in historic times as 'nomes' or provinces. The two Egyptian king-
doms were for a time hostile to each other. Their final union seems
to have been operated from Upper Egypt by King Menes, just how
is unknown. The memory of the division subsisted beyond the
dawn of the historic period; the arms of the united empire were
formed by the union of the lily and the papyrus, the symbolical
t Manetho of Sebennytos (p. 174) flourished in the reigns of Ptolemy I.
and Ptolemy II. He was probably a priest at Heliopolis and wrote Ms
three books of AlYuitTioxa 'Tito(xv/fj.aTO in the reign of Ptolemy II.
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY. xcix
plants of Upper and Lower Egypt ; the king styled himself 'King
of Upper and Lower Egypt' or 'Lord of both Lands', and woTe the
double tiara [ zjT J consisting of the white nrown ( /_/ ) of the S.
and the red crown ( \j j of the N.; and at the base of the temple-
walls were represented on one side the provinces of the S., and on
the other the provinces of the N. Even in matters of administration
respect was paid to this distinction, which was further emphasized
by the physical differences of the two regions. The introduction of
the Egyptian calendar also belongs to the primaeval period and be-
gins with July 19th, 4241.
2. Earliest Period of the Kings (ca. 3400-2980 B.C.).
I. and II. DYNASTIES f.
probably originating at This (p. 221) in Upper Egypt.
Menes (Meny) united Egypt about 3400 B.C. and founded the so-
called 'White Walls", a fortified city on the site afterwards oc-
cupied by Memphis (p. 143). Ilis tomb is believed to be at
Nakadeh (p. 224\ — The tombs of his successors have been
discovered at Abydos (p. 243).
3. The Ancient Empire (ca. 2980-2475 B.C.I.
III. DYNASTY (2980-2900 B.C.).
This dynasty originated at Memphis, where their tombs also are
situated. The most ancient mastabas date from this period.
Zoser, builder of the Step Pyramid at Sakkara (p. 146).
rv. DYNASTY (ca. 2900-2750 B.C.).
An epoch of powerful monarchs, who built the great pyramids.
Snofru, builder of the Pyramid of Meidum [p. 205) and of the great
pyramid at Dahshur (p. 166).
Kheops or Cheops fKlmfu), builder of the Great Pyramid of Gizeh
ip. 127;).
Tetf-re, builder of the Pyramid of Abu Roash (p. 139).
Khephren (h'hefre), builder of the Second Pyramid of Gizeli
(p. 131).
Mencheres or Mykerinos (Menkewre). builder of the Third Pyramid
of Gizeh (p. 183).
T Only the most important kings of each dynasty are menlioned.
Dynasties given in full are prefixed by an asterisk. — The names of Ihi;
kings are here usually given in the Greek form, with the Egyptian fonn
in bracket.').
g*
c IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
V. DYNASTY (2750-2625 B.C.).
Egypt now reached the zenith of her civilization ; art, in partic-
ular, attained a perfection never again reached. The pyramids of
the kings are mostly near Ahusir (p. 141), where special sanctuaries
were built also for the sun-god Re.
Nuserre built the sanctuary of Abu Gurab (p. 140) and the pyr-
amid and mortuary temple at Abusir (p. 141).
Sehure, whose pyramid and mortuary temple are at Abusir (p. 141),
carried on wars against the Libyans and Asiatics.
Onnos (Unis), the last king of the 5th Dyn., built his pyramid near
Sakkara (p. 165). After his death internal dissensions seem to
have broken out, resulting in the accession of a new dynasty.
VI. DYNASTY (ca. 2625-2475 B.C.).
Under this dynasty the power of the kings was more limited,
and the small principalities recovered some of their independence.
Far-reaching commercial relations were entered into with the Upper
Nile, Punt (the S. coast of the Red Sea), Syria, etc.
Othoes (Teti) |
Phiops I. (Meri-re Pepi I.) I Builders of pyramids at
Merenre Ment-em-sof (Methusuphls) I Sakkara (pp. 163, 166).
Phiops II. (Nefer-ke-re Pepi II.) ]
Towards the end of the 6th Dyn. the monarchy fell and civil
strife broke out. While the successors of the 6th Dyn. ( VIII. Dynasty)
may have maintained themselves at Memphis, a new race of in-
dependent kings established themselves at Heracleopolis (IX.
^ X. Dynasties) and for a time ruled the whole of Egypt, On the
other hand the chief power in the S. was seized by Thetan princes
(XI. Dynasty )j most of whom were named Mentuhotep. The mortu-
ary temple of two of these has been found at Deir el-Bahri (p. 304).
Dependent on these sovereigns were the Theban sub-kings named
Entef (Enyotef), whose small tombs lay near Drah Abu'l Negga
(p. 283). The Mentuhoteps finally overthrew the kings of Heracleo-
polis and gradually succeeded in reuniting the whole country. The
first niler over reunited Egypt was Amenemhet /., with whom begins —
4. The Middle Empire (2000-1680 B.C.).
*XII. DYNASTY (2000-1788 B.C.).
This was Egypt's most prosperous period, and an epoch of great
buildings. There is hardly a considerable town in Egypt without some
traces of the building activity of the kings of this dynasty. Literature
and art flourished. The kingdom was organized as a feudal state.
Amenemhet I. restored peace ; his tomb is the northern pyramid at
Lisht (p. 205).
SMOBtjitl.(SemeosretI.) conquered Nubia ; Ms tomb is the southern
pyramid at Lisht (p. 205).
IV. ANCJENT HISTOKY. ci
Amenemhet n. ; his tomb is at DahshAr (p. 167).
SesostriB n., bnilder of the pyramid of Illahnn (p. 195).
Sesostris HI. (the famous Sesostris of the Greeks) consolidates the
sovereignty over Nabia. Pyramid at Dahshdr (p. 166).
Amenemhet m., builder of the pyramid and great temple (so-callel
Labyrinth") at Hawara (p. 194).
Amenemhet IV.
Sebek-nofrn, a queen.
XIII.-XVI. DYNASTIES (1788-1580 B.C.).
The monarchs of the 13th Dynasty, mostly named Sebek-hotep,
maintained the power of Egypt for some time, but a period of de-
cline afterwards set in. There is no period of Egyptian history at
which kings were more numerous, most of them reigning but a
short time. The South was probably ruled by the descendants of the
ancient Theban kings, while in the town of Xois, in the W. Delta,
another family raised themselves to power (14th Dynasty).
About this time (ca. 1680 B.C.) Egypt was conquered by a
Semitic people, known as Hyksos, i.e. 'Shepherd Kings' (15th ^- 16th
Dynasties), who were doubtless Syrian Beduins. Few of their monu-
ments have been preserved; but it is evident that they conformed
to the ancient culture of Egypt. While the Hyksos were established
in the N. part of the land, the S. was ruled by Theban princes, who
were at first vassals of the foreign intruders. The tombs of these
princes, among whom were Sekenyenre III. and Kemose, lay near
Drah Abu'l Negga (p. 283).
Sekenyenre III., whose mummy was found at Deir el-Bahri {jp. 97).
Kemose. His queen was perhaps Ahhotep, whose jewels are now in
the Cairo Museum (p. 98).
5. The New Empire (1580-1090 B.C.).
Egypt became a great power during this period. At first the culture
of the New Empire difl'ered little from that of the Middle Empire, but
under Thutmosis III. political and social life as well as the art of Egypt
underwent a radical change, owing to the new relations with W. Asia.
The tribnte paid by foreign states caused an enormous flood of wealth
to pour into Egypt, and especially into Thebes, the capital. The earlier
buildings, that had fallen into disrepair, were now replaced by imposing
monuments, auch as the temples at Karnak, Lu.vor, etc.
XVII. DYNASTY (ca. 15S0-1540 B.C.).
Amosis (^Ahmose, 1580-1557 B.C.), perhaps the son of Kemose, con-
quered Anaris, the chief fortress of the Hyksos, and expelled
the intruders from Egypt, which was reunited under one sceptre.
The Biblical story of the Exodus may possibly relate to the ex-
pulsion of the Hyksos. *
AmenophiB I. (^Amenhotep, 1557-ca. 1540 B.C.). This king and his
mother Nefret-ere were afterwards regarded as the patron-gods of
the Necropolis of Thebes.
cii IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
"XVIII. DYNASTY (1540-1315 B.C.).
Thutmosis I. [Thutmose, 1540-1501 B.C.). His tomb at Bibau el-
Muluk (p. "297) was the first royal rock-tomb of the Pharaohs.
During his lifetime his children fought for the succession.
Eemare-Hatshepsat, queen and builder of the ^
temple of Deir el-Bahri fp. 299). Her tomb . , ,^
isatBibanel-Muluk'(p.296). reigned alter-
Thutmosis II. "**^'y-
Thutmosis UI. (1601-1447 B.C.). J
After the death of his sister and brother —
Thutmosis III. reigned alone. He was one of the most notable
Egyptian kings, conquered Syria, and established the influence
of Egypt in "W. Asia. His rock-tomb is at Biban el-Muluk
(p. 296).
AmenophisII. (Amenhotep ; 1447-1420 B.C.); rock-tomb at Biban
el-Muluk (p. 297).
Thutmosis IV. (1420-1411 B.C.) excavated the Sphinx at Gizeh
(comp. p. 135). Tomb at Biban el-Muliik (p, 298).
Amenophis III. (1411-1376 B.C.; called Memnon by the Greeks),
whose wife was named Teye, maintained intercourse with the
kings of Babylon, Assyria, Mitani (on the upper Euphrates), etc.
(see cuneiform tablets from Tell el-'Amarna, p. 212), and built
temples in Nubia, Luxor, Medinet Habu (Colossi of Memnon,
p. 330), and elsewhere. His tomb and that of his wife are both
at Bibin el-Muluk (p. 298).
Amenophis IV. (1376-1358 B.C.) endeavoured to replace the old
religion by the worship of a single deity, viz. the sun, an
attempt perhaps to provide a god that should be worshipped in
common by all the peoples of the extensive empire (p. cxlvl). The
movement was probably instigated by the priests of Heliopolis
and was directed at first only against the gods of Thebes, who,
during the New Empire, had thrown all others into the shade.
Many of the ancient deities, especially those of Thebes, were
fanatically 'persecuted', their images and names being removed
fiom all monuments. For his own original name, in which the
name of Amon occurs, the king substituted that of Ekh-en-Aton,
'the disk of the sun rejoices'. Tell el-'Araarna (p. 211) was
made the capital instead of Thebes. AmeuophisI V. was buried at
Biban el-Muluk (p. 298). After his death internal commotions
broke out and the new religion was abolished.
Among his successors (1358-1350 B.C.) were Eye (tombs at Tell
el-'Amarna, p. 216, and at Biban el-Muluk, p. 298) and Tut-
enkh-Aman, who transferred the royal residence back to Thebes.
Haremheb (Harmdis; 1350-1315 B.C.) restored peace and founded
the 19th Dynasty. Tomb at Biban el-Muluk (p. 298).
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
'XIX. DYNASTY (1315-1200 B.C.).
Hamaes I. (Ramesse) bad a short reign. His tomb is at Bibau el-
Mulflk (p. 291).
Sethosl. (Sethy I.) fought against the Libyans, the Syrians, and the
Hittites(Kheta), a powerful people that under the 18th Dyn. had
penetrated from Asia Minor into N. Syria and threatened the
Egyptian possessions in Syria and Palestine. Sethos built large
temples at Karnak, Kurna, and Abydos. His tomb is at Biban
el-Muluk fp. 292), his mummy at Cairo (p. 96).
Ramses 11. (Ramesse, ca. 1292-1225 B.C.), the most celebrated of
all Egyptian kings. He waged tedious wars against the Hittites
(battle of Kadesh, p. 307), finally making a peace with them in
the 21st year of his reign (p. 272), which left Palestine proper
in the possession of the Egyptians, while N. Syria was acknow-
ledged to be tributary to the Hittites. Kamses developed an
extraordinary building activity in the course of his reign of
67 years. Perhaps one-half of all the extant temples date from
this reign ; and the name of Ramses is found in nearly every
group of ruins in Egypt. His largest temples were those of Abu
Simbel(p.404), Karnak (p. 265), Luxor (p. 257), theRamesseum
(p. 306) , Abydos (p. 243) , Memphis (p. 1U\ and Bubastis
(p. 171). His tomb is at Biban el-Muluk (p. 287), his mummy
at Cairo (p. 96). Ramses H. is frequently identified, but probably
erroneously, with the 'Pharaoh of the Oppression' (Exod. i. 11).
Of his numerous sons only one survived him, viz. —
Amenephthes (Merenptah), who carried on campaigns against the
Libyans and their allies (comp. p. 86), the peoples of the Medi-
terranean. His mortuary temple is at Thebes (p. 309), his grave
at Biban el-Muluk (p. 287), and his mummy at Cairo (p! 96).
Amen-mesesl are all buried at Biban el-Muluk (pp. 289, 298,
Siptah I 291). Their short reigns were followed by a period
Sethos II. j of anarchy. Decline of the kingdom.
•XX. DYNASTY (1200-1090 B.C.).
Seth-nakht succeeded in restoring peace.
Ramses III. (^Ramesse, 1200-1179 B.C.) conquered the Libyans and
in two great battles repelled an invasion of barbarians who ap-
proached from Asia Minor by land and by water, threatening
Egypt. His rei.sn of 21 years was thereafter an epoch of peace
and quiet, in which several large buildings (e.g. the temple at
Medinet Habu, p. 323) were erected. The king presented great
gifts to the gods, especially to the Theban Amon, who had
been richly endowed by former kings, also. The high-priest of
Amon gradually became the greatest power in the state. The
king's tomb is at Biban el-Mulfik (p. 289), his mammy at Cairo
(p. 96). His successors —
civ IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
Ramses IV. -Ramses XII. gradnally fell more aud more under the
control of the priests of Amon. Their tomhs are at Biban el-
Muluk (pp. 286 et seq.).
6. Period of Foreign Domination (1090-663 B.C.).
XXI. DYNASTY (TAKITES; 1090 946 B.C.).
Heribor, high-priest of Amon, occupied the throne for a short time
after the death of Ramses XII.
The empire now fell to pieces. At Tanis a new dynasty arose
(Psusennes, Amenemopet), which contested the rule of the high-priests
at Thebes. Pinotem I., a Theban priest-king, became king of all
Egypt through marriage alliances with the Tanite dynasty, while his
sons obtained the influential and lucrative djgnity of high-priests
of Thebes. Nubia recovered its independence; and the Egyptian
dominion in Palestine terminated.
XXII. DYNASTY (945-745 B.C.).
The kings of this dynasty were of Libyan origin. Their ancestors,
like the Mamelukes of later days, had come to Egypt as the leaders
of mercenary troops. Settling in the E. Delta, they grew in power
as that of the monarchy declined. The royal residence under this
dynasty was Bubastis (p. 171) ; Thebes steadily declined in import-
ance. Royal princes assumed the office of high-priests of Amon.
Sboshenk I. {Sesonchis; iheShishak of the Bible) overthrew the Tan-
ites. In the 5th year of Rehoboam of Judah he captured Jerusa-
lem and plundered the Temple of Solomon (ca. 930 B.C.). For
his monument of victory, see p. 272.
Under his successors (^Osorkon, Takelothia, Shoshenk, etc.) the
throiTe once more lost power, and the country was subdivided into
small independent principalities. Among these are reckoned the
members of the —
XXIII. DYNASTY (745-718 B.C.),
who reigned in Tanis, but of whom we know little. The
kings of Ethiopia, whose capital was Napata (p, 419), made
themselves masters of Upper Egypt.
B.C. 730. Tefnakhte, Prince of Sa'is and Memphis, attempted to seize
the sovereignty of Lower Egypt, but was defeated by
Piankhi, King of Ethiopia, who captured Memphis. (For
Piankhi's monument of victory, see p. 88.)
'XXIV. DYNASTY.
Bocchoris (Bektnranf), son and successor of Tefnakhte, se-
cured the sovereignty of Lower Egypt, while Upper Egypt
remained subject to the Ethiopians. Sahdkon of Ethiopia,
son of Kashta , overthrew Bocchoris and burned him to
death. All Egypt fell into the hands of the Ethiopians.
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
712-700.
700-688.
688-663.
663.
•XXV. DYNASTY (ETHIOPUNS; 712-663 B.C.).
Shabako (Sabakon) assisted the smaller Syrian states (^llez-
ekiah of Judali) against the Assyrians.
Sebichos (Shabataka).
Taharka (the 2'irhakah of the Bible) also assisted the princes
of Syria and Palestine against thB Assyrians , but was
defeated in 670 by Esarhaddon, King of Assyria, and after
the capture of Memphis compelled to take refuge in Ethio-
pia. Both Upper and Lower Egypt became subject to the
Assyrians, the various local princes (such as Necho of
Sais, etc.) becoming vassals of the invaders. Various at-
tempts to expel the latter failed.
Tanutamun, son of Shabako, succeeded in recovering Egypt
for a brief period, but was finally defeated by the Assyr-
ians and driven back into Upper Egypt.
The Assyrian rule in Egypt was, however, approaching its
end. The absence of the main Assyrian forces, which were
engaged in distant wars in Babylon and Elam, afforded
an opportunity of shaking off the yoke, which was seized
\>y Psammetichos of Sais, son of Necho (see above), with the
help of Gyges, King of Lydia. The foreign garrisons were
expelled; the authority of the small native princes was
gradually curbed; and Egypt was again united. Since then
Ethiopia has been separate from Egypt.
7. Late-Egyptian Period (663-332 B.C.).
•XXVI. DYNASTY (663-525 B.C.).
Egypt now enjoyed another period of prosperity. Trade began to
flourish owing to the new relations with Greece. Art also received
a fresh impetus; even before the Ethiopian kings artists had begun
to imitate the models of the classic period of Egyptian art under
the Ancient Empire. This reversion to an earlier era appeared also
in other departments, such as literature, the spelling of inscriptions,
and even the titles of officials, so that the period of the '26th Dyn.
may be styled the Egyptian Renaissance.
663-609. Psammetichos I. (Psametik), see above.
009-593. Necho (Ntkaw). While the Assyrians were engrossed in a
deadly contest with the Babylonians and Medes Necho
invaded Syria, defeating and slaying Josiah, King of
.Tudah, at the battle of Megiddo. The Egyptians were,
however, defeated atCarchemish by Nebuchadnezzar, King
of Babylon, and thus lost their possessions in Syria and
Palestine. — Necho began to construct a canal from the Nile
to the Red Sea, but was stopped by an oracle (p. 182).
593-5^. Psammetichos II. warrcil against Ethiopia.
cvl
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
Apries or Uaphris IWeh-eb-re ; the Hophrah of the Bible)
made another attempt to recover Syria, but was unable to
prevent the capture of Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar in
586. A military rebellion in Libya dethroned Apries, and
his general Amasis was proclaimed king.
Amasis (Ahmose) secured his supremacy by marriage with
a daughter of Psammetichos II. A campaign undertaken
by Nebuchadnezzar against Egypt led to the final aban-
donment of the Egyptian claims upon Syria. Amasis as-
signed the city of Naucratis (p. 32) to Greek colonists,
who speedily made it the most important commercial town
in the empire. A friendly alliance was made with Poly-
crates, tyrant of Samos.
Psammetichos III. was defeated at Pelusium by the Persian
king Cambyses, and Egypt became a Persian province.
*XXVII. DYNASTY. PERSIAN DOMINATION.
The Persian monarchs appeared as successors to the native
rulers and by their moderation found favour with the greater
part of the population. The old religion was unmolested.
Cambyses led an unsuccessful expedition, via Khargeh,
against the oases of the Libyan Desert and a campaign
against Ethiopia.
Darius I. endeavoured to promote the prosperity of Egypt
in every possible way. The canal from the Nile to the
Red Sea was completed (p. 182). A strong garrison was
sent to the oasis of Khargeh and a temple was built there
to Amou (p. 381). After the battle of Marathon the
Egyptians, he^Aei 'hy Khabbash^ revolted and expelled the
Persians. The insurrection , however, was quelled by —
Xerxes I., who appointed his brother Achsmenes satrap.
Artaxerxesl. During his reign the Egyptians again revolted.
Inaros (Ert - Har - erow)^ prince of Marea, aided by the
Athenians, defeated Achjemenes, the Persian satrap, but
the allied Egyptians and Greeks were in turn defeated by
the Persian general Megabyzos near Prosopitis, an island
in the Nile, and Inaros was crucified.
Herodotus visited Egypt.
Darius II. The Persian power gradually declined. Under —
Artaxerxes II. and his successor —
Artaxerxes III. the Egyptians once more revolted and suc-
ceeded in regaining their independence for a brief period
under native rulers, whom Manetho assigns to the 28-
30th Dynasties.
♦XXVIII. DYNASTY.
Amyrtseos of Sais maintained his authority for a short time only.
In Lower Egypt several dynasties contended for sovereignty.
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
*XXIX. DYNASTY (398-379 B.C.).
This dynasty came from Mendes and relied for support
chiefly upon Greek mercenaries.
Nepherites (Nefarit).
Achoris (HakorJ.
Psamuthis (Pshe-Mut).
-XXX. DYNASTY (378-341 B.C.).
Nektauebes ( Nekht-Har-ehbet), of Sebennytos, built a temple
0 f 1 sis at Belibit el-Hagar (p. 174 ), a gate at Karnak (p. 277),
and a colonnade in the oasis of Khargeh (p. 381).
Tachos (Teltor) was dethroned, and died at the Persian cooit.
Nektanebos (Nekhte-nebof) was a powerful monarch, in
whose reign large temples (e.jr. at Philae , p. 364) were
once more built. Egypt, however, was reconquered by the
Persians ; the king fled to Ethiopia and the temples were
plundered.
Alexander the Great took possession of Egypt.
b. Graeco-Roman Period (332 B.C.-640 A.D.).
1. Alexander the Great and the Ptolemaic Period.
■Under tbe Ptolemies the lower valley of the Nile became
once more for three centuries the seat of a brilliant kingdom,
at first under gifted rulers of the mo.st prosperous, richest, and
most powerful state in the world, but afterwards condemned to
shameful impotence under their vicious and degenerate posterity,
torn by fratricidal wars, and existing only by the favour of Rome,
until it was involved in the domestic struggles of Rome and finally
perished.'' The customs and religious views of the Egyptians
were respected by the Ptolemies, who represented themselves
to the native population as the descendants of the ancient
Pharaohs. Large temples were built during this period.
Alexander the Great tolerated the native religion and visited
the oasis of Jupiter Ammon (Siweh Oasis, p. 878) in 331,
where he was hailed by the priests as a son of Ammon. He
founded Alexandria (p. 12), which soon became the centre
of Greek culture and of the commerce of the whole world.
After his death in 323 the Macedonian empire fell to
pieces. Egypt became the satrapy of —
Ptolemy I. Soter I., son of Lagus, who carried on the govern-
ment at first for Philippus ArrhidKus and Alexander II.,
son of Alexander the Great, and then for the latter alone.
Alexander II. died in 311 and Ptolemy assumed the title
of king in 305. The Museum at Alexandria (p. 13) and
Ptolema'is Uermiou (^p. 221), in Upper Egypt, were founded
in this reign.
Ptolemy n. Philadelphns married first Arsinoe I. , daughter
of Lysimachus, then his sister Arsinoi II. Arsinoe II. was
named patron-goddess of the Falyum, which was entitled
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
the 'Arsinoite iiome' in her honour. Under Philadelphus
and his successors great elephant-hunts took place on the
Somali coast. The elephants were brought to Egypt and
trained for military purposes.
Ptolemy III. Eaergetes I. married Berenice of Gyrene. He
temporarily conquered the empire of the Seleucides in
Asia Minor. An unsuccessful attempt was made by the
Egyptian priests to reform the calendar by intercalating a
day in every fourth year. The power of Egypt abroad was
now at its zenith.
Ptolemy IV. Fhilopator. Under the misgovernment of this
king and his successors the empire of the Ptolemies began
to totter. Ptolemy IV. defeated Antiochus the Great of
Syria, who had threatened the Egyptian frontier, at the
battle of R aphia, butconcluded a dishonourable peace with
him. The king married his sister Arsinoe HI. For nine-
teen years a series of native Pharaohs ruled at Thebes.
Ptolemy V. Epiphanes (comp. p. cxxvi) ascended the throne,
when five years of age, under the guardianship of Agathocles
and ffinanthe, the mother of the latter. In consequence
of a revolt at Alexandria his guardians were obliged to
resign their office. Advantageof these dissensions was taken
by Antiochus the Great of Syria and Philip V. of Macedonia
to invade the foreign possessions of Egypt. Egypt offered
the guardianship of Ptolemy V. to the Boman Senate, which
ceded Goelesyria and Palestine to Antiochus, while Egypt
continued to be independent. Ptolemy married Cleopatra J.,
daughter of Antiochus. The internal affairs of the country
fell into deplorable confusion; rebellion succeeded rebel-
lion, and anarchy prevailed everywhere.
Ptolemy V. was poisoned.
Ptolemy VI. Philometor, his son, ascended the throne under
the guardianship of his mother Cleopatra. Onias was per-
mitted by the king to build a Jewish temple at Leonton-
polls (p. 171).
Battle of Pelusium. Philometor was taken prisoner, and
Memphis captured, by Antiochus IV. of Syria. The king's
younger brother —
Ptolemy IX. (Physkon), at first also surnamed Philometor,
was summoned to the throne by the Alexandrians.
reigned jointly, having become reconciled,
and with them also their sister Cleopatra,
wife of Philometor.
The brothers again quarrelled. Philometor, banished by his
brother, fled to Rome, was reinstated by the Roman Sen-
ate, and thenceforth reigned alone, while the younger
brother became King of Cyrene.
Ptolemy VI. and
Ptolemy IX.
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY. clx
After the death of Philometor he was succeeded by his sou,
Ptolemy VIl. Eupator, who, after a very short reigu, gave
place to —
Ptolemy IX., who now assumed the title of Euergetes [II.).
He married his brother's widow aud afterwards also his
niece Cleopatra.
Expelled by a revolution, Ptolemy IX. sought refuge in Cy-
prus, while Cleopatra reigned iu Egypt as Philometor So-
teira. Memphites, a sou of Euergetes, became, under the
name Ptolemy VIII. Neos Pliilopator, a rival to his father,
who succeeded iu murdering him.
Euergetes II. regained possession of the throne. After his
death the government was shared by his widow —
Cleopatra Cocce and her son Ptolemy X. Soter n. (Lathyrua).
Soter II. was banished, and his brother Ptolemy XL Alex-
ander I. became co-regent in his stead.
Alexander, expelled by a rebellion, perished iu a naval
battle. Soter II. was recalled.
Thebes rebelled aud was destroyed.
After the death of Soter II. Ptolemy XII. Alexander II. mar-
ried Cleopatra Berenice, with whom he reigned jointly.
He assassinated his wife and was himself slain.
Ptolemy Xm, NeosDionysos (popularly called Aufetes, i.e.
'the flute -player'l next ascended the throne and was for-
mally recognized by Rome. Ho was banished by his daughter
Berenice, who married Archelaus, an alleged son of Mi-
thridates VI., King of Pontus, but he was restored by the
Romans after six mouths. The temple at Edfu (p. 344) was
completed aud that at Dendera was begun (p. 245). - —
Ptolemy XIII. was succeeded by his children —
Cleopatra and Ptolemy XIV. , under the guardianship of
the Roman Senate. Pompey was appointed guardian.
Ptolemy XIV. banished his sister Cleopatra. Pompey, hav-
ing been defeated at the battle ofPharsalia, sought refuge
in Egypt, but on landing was slain at the instigation of
Ptolemy, his ward.
Ceesar landed at Alexandria (p. 12), took the part of the
banished Cleopatra, and defeated the rebellious Ptolemy,
who was drowned iu the Nile. — Cssar, having mean-
while become dictator of Rome, appointed —
Ptolemy XV., the brother of Cleopatra, a boy of eleven, co-
regent.
Ptolemy XV. was assassinated at the instigation of Cleopatra,
and —
Ptolemy XVI. Csesar (also called Csesarion), her son by Cae-
sar, was appointed oo-regent.
Csesar was murdered.
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
Antony, having summoned Cleopatra to Tarsus to answer for
the conduct of her general AUienus, who contrary to her
wishes had aided the army of Brutus and Cassius at Phillppi,
was captivated by her beauty and talent. After having
spent years of debauchery with the Egyptian queen, he
was at length declared by the Roman Senate to be an en-
emy of Ms country. Octavianua marched against him, de-
feated him at Actium, and captured Alexandria. Antony
committed suicide, and Cleopatra also is said to have
caused her own death by the bite of an asp.
Egypt now became a Roman province subject only to the
emperor and was governed by viceroys or prefects nom-
inated by the emperor.
2. Roman Period.
The Roman emperors followed the example of the Ptolemies
in representing themselves to the Egyptian people as successors
of the old Pharaohs and in maintaining the appearance of a
national Egyptian state. — Christianity was early introduced
into Egypt, where it spread rapidly.
C. Cornelius Oallus (B.C. 69-26), whom Ovid ranked first
among Roman elegiac poets, was appointed first prefect.
He repressed an insurrection in Upper Egypt (p. 256) and
fought against the Ethiopians. Having afterwards fallen
into disgrace with the emperor, he committed suicide. —
The reformed calendar was finally introduced by Augustus.
Caesar Octavianus, under the title of AugnstuB, became
sole ruler of the vast Roman empire (p. 13).
The Ethiopians, under their queen Candace, invaded Egypt.
Strabo travelled in Egypt.
Tiberius erected the Sebasteum at Alexandria.
Germaniciis visited Egypt.
Caligula. In Alexandria civic disturbances took place be-
tween the Hellenes and the Jews.
Claudius. The building of the pronaos of the temple at
Esneh (p. 342) was begun.
Nero. Egypt acquired a new source of wealth as a commercial
station between India and Rome.
Galba. Otho. ViteUius.
Vespasian (p. 14) was first proclaimed emperor at Alexan-
dria. From this city his son Titus (79-811 started on his
expedition against Palestine, which terminated with the
destruction of Jerusalem in the year 70. The temple of
Onias (p. cviiil was closed.
Domitian favoured the worship of Isis and Serapis at Rome.
Nerva.
Trajan (pp. 13, 182). The canal connecting the Nile with
the Red Sea was re-opened (Amnis Trajanus).
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
Hadrian (p. 14) visited Egypt in 130. His favourite Aii-
tinous was drowned in the Nile, and was commemorated
by the founding of the town of Antinotipolis (^p. 209).
Antoninus Fins.
Marcus Aurelius (p. 14).
Rebellion oi the Bucolians, or cow-herds, who had long been
settled among the marshes to theE. of Alexandria, quelled
by Avidius Cassius.
Avidius Cassius was proclaimed emperor by the Egyptian
legions, but was assassinated in Syria.
Marcus Aurelius visited Alexandria {jp. 14).
Commodns.
School of the Cathechists flourished at Alexandria under
Pantaenus (the first head on record), Clement, and Origen.
Septimius Severns (p. 14).
Edict prohibiting Roman subjects from embracing Chris-
tianity. The Delta at this period was thickly studded
with Christian communities.
Caracalla (p. 14) visited Egypt. Massacre at Alexandria.
The Constitutio Antonina admitted provincials to the Roman
citizenship.
Caracalla was assassinated by the prefect of his guards —
Macrinus, who was recognized as emperor by the Egyptians.
After his death a series of contests for the possession of
the throne took place at Alexandria.
Decins (p. 14). Persecution of the Christians in 250 A.D.
under Bishop Dionysius of Alexandria.
Valerian. Persecution of the Christians [p. 14).
Gallienus accorded a certain measure of religious toleration
to the Christians. Plague in Egypt.
Rebellion of Macrianus , who was recognized as emperor by
the Egyptians. He marched into lUyria against Domi-
tian, the general of Gallienus.
jEmilianus (Alexander) was proclaimed emperor by the army
at Alexandria and recognized by the people, but was de-
feated and put to death by the Roman legions.
Lower Egypt occupied by an army of Queen Zenobia of
Palmyra, and part of Upper Egypt by the Blemmyes.
Clandins 11.
Aurelian.
Probus reconquered Egypt for the empire.
Anthony of Coma, a Copt, became the first hermit.
Probus obtained the purple at Alexandria.
His successful campaign against the Blemmyes.
Diocletian.
Rebellion in Upper Egypt.
Insurrection of the Alexandrians.
CXll
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
295.
303.
305-313.
ca. 320.
324-337.
325.
326.
328.
ca. 330.
337-361.
ca. 350.
361-363.
373.
379-395.
395.
395-638.
395-408.
408-450.
413.
415.
431.
444.
U9.
Diocletian took Alexandria.
Persecution of the Christians.
Maximinus. Beginning of the Arian controversies.
Pachomius founded the first convent in Tabennese (p. 222).
Constantine the Great, the first emperor who was really a
friend of the Christians. The government of Egypt was
reorganized; the country was made into a diocese and sub-
divided into six provinces, viz. Egypt, Augustamnica,
Heptanomis (afterwards called Arcadia), Thebais, Upper
Egypt, and Lower Egypt.
Council of Nice. The doctrine of the presbyter Arius of Alex-
andria that Christ was begotten by God before all time, for the
purpose of creating the world, and was godlike, but not very
God, was condemned ; while the doctrine that Father and Son
are hornousioi. or of the same nature, was sanctioned.
Athannsius, Archbishop of Alexandria.
Constantine founded Constantinople as a new metropolis of
Greek art and science.
Beginning of the communities of anchorites in the Sketian
and Nitrian deserts (Macarius, Amun).
Constantius. He favoured Arianism. Athanasius was ban-
ished from Alexandria more than once.
The earliest Coptic translations of the Bible date from about
this period.
Julian, surnamed the Apostate from his renunciation of
Christianity (p. 14).
Athanasius died, after witnessing the success of his cause in
the last years of his life.
Theodosius I. the Great. He formally declared Christianity
to be the religion of the empire. Persecution of the Arians
and heathens (p. 14). Destruction of the Serapeum (p. 14).
Partition of the Roman empire, Arcadius being emperor of
the East, and Honorius of the West.
3. Byzantine Period,
Arcadius. Theophilus, the bigoted Patriarch of Alexandria
(p. 15), carried fire and sword against the opponents
of anthropomorphism, the doctrine that God must be con-
sidered to have a human form.
Theodosius II.
Theophilus died and was succeeded by Cyril (p. 15).
Hypatia, the female pagan philosopher (p. 15), died a mar-
tyr's death at Alexandria.
The Patriarch Cyril defended his view, that the Virgin was
7) SeoToxot, against Nestorins, Patriarch of Constantinople, at the
Third (Ecumenical Council, held at Epesns.
Death of Cyril.
_ In the so-called 'Robber Councir at Ephesus the Patriarch
Dioscurus of Alexandria obtained a victory as representative of
the monophygite view (see p. cziii).
IV. ANCIENT HISTORY.
cxiii
Marcian..
At the Fourth CEcumenical Council, that of (Jhalcedon, the
monophysite doctrine, to the effect that Christ possessed a double
nature before his incarnation, but that his human nature was
afterwards absorbed by his divine, was condemned, chiefly
through the influence of Pope Leo the (ireat. At this council
the doctrine that Christ possesses two natures, oauyxuxtu; and
arp^TiTU);, but at the same time aotaip^Tuj? and a^^iuptcrrox;, i.e.
unmixed and unchangeable, but also indistinguishable and in-
separable, was formally adopted by the Church. The Egyptian
Christians, to this day, adhere to the monophysite doctrine.
Hslablishment of the national Egyptian or Coptic Church.
Zeno.
Anastasius.
Famine in Egypt.
Justinian (p. 15). New administrative measures.
Heraclius (p. 15).
The Persians under Chosroes II. invaded Egypt (p. 15).
} Alexandria was taken. Clvosroes ruled with moderation.
G22. [ The Hegira, the beginning of the Mohammedan calendar
(p. Ixxxiv).
026. I The Persians expelled by Heraclius.
632. ' Death of Mohammed. Abu Bekr, his succe^^sor, becomes the
I first caliph.
634. ; Beginning of the conquest of Syria by the Arabs. Death of
Abu Bekr. Omar becomes the second caliph.
&?G. ! Decisive victory of the Arabs over the Byzantines on the
Yarmuk. Fall of Damascus.
637. I Victory of the Arabs over the Persians at Kadesia; fall of
Ktesiphon. End of the Sassanide empire.
635. I Fall of Jerusalem. Omar in Syria.
II. The Middle Ages+.
Egypt as a Province of the Empire of the Caliphs.
640. I 'Amr ibn el- As (pp. 15, 44, 109), general of Caliph Omar,
conquered Pelusium (p. 186) and defeated the Byzantines
I at Heliopolis (p. 120).
041. The fortified city of Babylon was handed over (p. 44) through
the intervention of the Patriarch Cyrus (Mukaukis). Alex-
andria taken (p. 15).
642. Fusttit was founded as military headquarters and seat of the
government (p. 44).
:-656. [ 'OthmSji. He was overthrown in a revolt which had its origin
i in Egypt.
645. Alexandria was relieved by the Byzantine fleet.
646. [ 'Amr recaptured Alexandria. Egypt now became an undis-
+ With additions by Prof. C. H. Becker and Dr. C. Piufer.
Baedekrk's Egypt. 7th Edit. h
IV. MEDl/^ilVAL HISTORY.
666-661.
756.
puted possession of the Arabs and the base for their naval
campaigns against Byzantium and for tlieir conquest of
N. Africa.
Civil war between Caliph 'Ali, the son-in-law of Mohammed,
and Mu'iwia, the founder of the dynasty of the Omai-
yades. Egypt belonged at first to 'Ali, but after 658 to
the Omaiyades.
Omaiyades. 658-750.
This illustrious Arabian dynasty had its residence in Da-
mascus. Arabian tribes vrere settled^in the Nile valley
and the system of government was based on Arabian juodels.
Many Copts embraced Islam. Egypt was ruled by gover-
nors, who were often princes of the house of the cnliphs.
Merw&n II., the last of this dynasty, fled to Egypt, and was
put to death there. Histonibisat Abusirel-Melek(p.206).
The Omaiyades were then exterminated, with the excep-
tion of 'Abd er-Kahman, who fled to Spain, and founded
an independent caliphate at Cordova.
Abbasides. TnO-SGS.
The new dynasty, which had risen to power on Iranian soil
and with Persian assistance, transferred the royaU resi-
dence and seat of government from Syria to the 'Irak. Bagh-
I dad was founded and the caliphate reached its zenith.
■ Egypt was ruled by frequently changing governors. ; The
I Copts were oppressed and frequent revolts occurred.
813-833. i Ma'mtin , the son of ITarun er-Rashid, visited Egypt and
quelled the resistance of the Copts and the Beduin (tribes
that had settled in Egypt. The fusion between the' Arabs
and the Copts began and Arabic became the language of
the fellahin.
Under Ma'mun's successors the power of the caliphs began
to decline ; the government became dependent upon Turk-
ish Mamelukes, and the provinces regained their inde-
pendence.
Tulunides. 868-905.
Egypt became again for a short time independent.
Ahmed ibn Tultin, governor of Egypt, declared himself an
independent sultan, and extended the boundaries of
Egypt beyond Syria and as far as Mesopotamia. Numerous
buildings were erected during his reign (pp.44, 71, et seq.)
I and that of his son —
883-895. Khumaraweih (p. 44). The latter and his successor;; were
unable to preserve their independence.
IV. MEDI F.VAL HISTORY.
Abbasides. 905-936.
Egjpt again came under the dominion of the Abbaaide
sultans at Baghdad.
The Shiite Fatimites of Kairawan (Kairwan) attacked Egypt,
but were defeated.
Ikhshidides. 935-969.
Mohammed el-Ikhsbid, a Turk and governor of Egypt, took
possession of the tlirone and founded a short-lived dynasty.
His successors ruled under the direction of - —
K&ffir, an Abyssinian eunuch, who afterwards usurped the
throne and recognized the suzerainty of the Abbasides.
Syria and the sacred towns were subordinate to Egypt,
and the court at Old Cairo was very brilliant. On his
death Kafiir was succeeded by his grandson, who was
not yet of age, and tho Fatimites took advantage of this
momont of weakness to conquer Egypt.
Egypt under Independent Rulers.
Fatimites. 069-1171.
The B'atimitcs, the rulers of a kingdom wliicli had arisen in
the W. part of N. Africa in 909, as the result of a religious
SUiite miivement, attributed their origin toFatima. the daughter
of Mohammed.
Gohar conquered Egypt for his master, the Fatimite Mu'izz,
and founded the new capital Cairo (p. 44).
Mu'izz came himself to Cairo and resided there until his
death (975). He conquered Syria also.
£l-^Aziz, son of Mu'izz, distinguished himself by his tolerance
and his love of science fp. 55 I and Egypt prospered under
his rule.
£1-H&kim (p. 77), his son by a Christian mother, was a
fanatic, capable of extraordinary cruelty. Subsequently,
at the instigation of Ed-Darazi, a Persian sectary, he
declared himself to be an incarnation of 'Ali (p. cxiv),
and exacted the veneration due to a god. Ed-Darazi be-
came the founder of the sect of the Druses (see Baedektr's
Palestine and Syria). Hakim disappeared on one of his
nightly rides on the Mokattam hills, where he was prob-
ably assassinated at the instigation of his sister. The
Druses believe that he voluntarily withdrew from the
world in consequence of its sinfulness and that he will
one day re-appear as a divine prophet.
Ez-Zihir, Hakim's effeminate and cruel son, succeeded at
the age of sixteen.
El-Mustansir, a weak and incapable prince.
Under Christodulos , the Coptic Patriarch, the seat of the
Patriarch was removod from Alexandria to Cairo.
IV. MEDIAEVAL HISTORY.
li'65,
1074-1094.
1094.
1094-1101.
1096-1098.
1099.
1101-1159.
llGO-1171.
1164.
1168.
169-1193.
1171.
1200-1218.
Tlie country was ravaged for seven years by pestilence and
famine, owing to the failure of tlie Nile inundation. Pal-
estine and Syria were overrun by the Seljuks, who attacked
them from the E. There were revolts among the Turkish
and Berber mercenaries. The palace and the library were
plundered.
Badr el-Gamali, Mustansir's Armenian vizier, restored order
in the capital, ami governed with almost unlimited power,
to the great advantage of Egypt. His son —
El-Afdal became vizier to the young caliph, —
El-Mustali, son of Mustansir, who conquered —
Jerusalem and the towns on the Syrian coast , but was de-
prived of his conquests by the army of the First Crusade.
King Baldirin of Jerusalem attacked Egypt unsuccessfully.
Owing to a succession of incapable caliphs the Empire of
the Fatimites gradually fell to pieces. The viziers, El-
Afdal (assassinated in 1121} and his successors, were the
actual rulers of the country.
El-'Adid, the last Fatimite caliph.
Contests for the ol'flce of vizier took place during this reign
between Shdwer and Dirgham. The former, being exiled,
obtained an asylum with Nur ed-D7n, the ruler of Aleppo,
who assisted him to regain his office with Kurd mercen-
ary troops, under the brave generals Sh7rkuh and Saladin.
Shawer, quarrelling with the Kurds, invoked the aid of
Amalarich I., King of Jerusalem, who came to Egypt and
expelled the Kurds. A second army of Kurds, which was
about to invade Egypt, was driven back in the same
way, whereupon Amalarich himself endeavoured to obtain
possession of Egypt. Shawer next invoked the aid of his
enemy Nur ed-Din, whose Kurdish troops expelled Ama-
larich. Egypt thus fell into the hands of the Kurds Shirkiih
and Saladin. Shawer was executed. Shirkuh became chief
vizier, and on his death —
Saladin (^Saldh ed-JDtn YHsufibn Aiyub ^ p, 4o) ruled in the
name of the incapable caliph. On the death of the latter
Saladin became sole ruler of Egypt, and founded the dyn-
asty of the —
Aiyubides. 1171-1250.
Saladin's reign was the most brilliant in the mediaeval history
of Cairo, though he resided only eight years in the city and
spent the rest of the time in campaigns in Palestine, Syria,
and Mesopotamia. He began the citadel (p. 68). The Shiite
doctrines and forms of worship, introduced into Egypt by
the Fatimites, were abolished. Syria was conquered.
Malik el-Adil, his brother, for a short time preserved the
IV. MEDIEVAL HISTORY.
! flominions intact; on Saladin's death they had been tem-
porarily divided, and the empire was again dismembered
at his brother's death, Egypt falling to the share of the
latter's sou —
Malik el-K&mil (pp. 173, 176), a prudent and vigorous ruler.
Damietta (^Dumyat) was captured by the army of the Fifth
Crusade, but was surrendered again in 1221 (p. 176).
Kamil concluded a treaty with the Emperor Frederick II.,
wlio led an army into Palestine. By thiS' compact Jeru-
salem and the coast-towns were surrendered to the emperor
for ten years. — El-Kamil was succeeded by his sons —
EI-'AdU li. and —
Es-SSIih Aijrfib. The latter built the castle on the island of
Roda ill the Nile.
Louis IX., the Sdlnt, of France undertook the Sixth Crusade,
marched against Egypt, and took Damietta, but was cap-
tured along with his army at Mansura fp. 173) by Ttlrfi,n-
shah, who had succeeded his father Es-Salib. During the
negotiations for the release of Louis Turanshah was
murdered by his body-guards, the Mamelukes. One of
the Mameluke leaders, named Aibek, was raised to the
throne, after the short interregnum under a woman, and
founded the —
Dynasty of the Bahrite Mamelukes t. 1250-1382.
lu the space of 132 years there were twenty-five sultans, some
of whom reigned sei'eral times.
Beybars I. (Balbars), one of the ablest of this dynasty, anni-
hilated the last remnants of the kingdom of Jerusalem in
the course of four campaigns. He brought to Cairo the last
representative of the Abbaside caliphs, who had been over-
thrown by the Mongols and expelled from Baghdad, and
permitted him and his successors nominally to occupy the
throne.
Eal&un, tl-MamuT Kaldun (p. 75), succeeded, to the exclu-
sion of a youthful son of Beybars (1277-1279), successfully
opposed the Mongols, and entered into treaties with the
Emperor Rudolph and other princes.
El-Ashraf Ehalil captured Acre, the last place in the Holy
I.aiiil lielil by the Christians.
En-Nisir, Ndsir ed- 1) in Mohammed (p. 45), succeeded his
brother Khalil at the age of nine years, but owing to in-
ternal dissensions was compelled to retire to Syria. With
+ The Mamelukes were slaves (as the word jnanWtfiJim ports), pur-
ihased by the sultan.i and trained as soldiers far the purpose of forming
their hody-finard and the nucleus of their army. They became known as
the Bahrite Mamelukes from the fact that their barnvcks lay on the island
of Roda in the river (Bahr).
IV. MEDIAEVAL HISTORY.
1347-1361.
1382-1399.
1399-1412.
1412-1421.
the aid ot'tlie Syrian emirs, liowcver, he regained his throne
in 1298. Once more expelled in the same year, he re-
gained his throne in 1309 and retained possession of it till
his death in 1340. Distrust, vindictiveness, and cupidity
soon showed themselves to be prominent characteristics
of En-Nasir, who treated his emirs with the utmost capri-
ciousness, loading them with rich gifts or ordering them
to execution as the humour seized him. The emir IsmCi'il
Abfdfida, known also as a historian, succeeded, however,
in retaining his master's favour until his death (1331).
Towards the mass of the population En-Nasir was liberal and
condescending, and towards the clergy indulgent. In order
to provide the enormous sums required for the expenses of
his court and his love of building he appointed Christian
officials in the custom-house and finance departments, as
they were considered especially clever and cunning.
Hasan en-N&sir (p. 66), the sixth son of En-Nasir, was still a
minor when he ascended the throne. The lawless indepen-
dence of the Mamelukes and emirs was aggravated by a
plague in 1348-49 which exterminated whole families,
whose property was immediately seized by the government.
After having been dethroned in 1351 by Sdlih (p. 45)
Hasan regained his sceptre three years later, but in 1361
he was assassinated. — The following sultans became
more and more dependent on the emirs.
Dynasty of the Circassian Mamelukes. 1382-1617.
Barktik (pp. 45, 76, 112), a Circassian slave, succeeded in
usurping the throne by treacherously setting aside Haggi, a
boy of six years and great-grandson of En-Nasir. The exas-
perated emirs dethroned him in 1389; but he triumphantly
re-entered Cairo in 1390. He fought successfully against
the Mongols under Timur and the Osmans under Bayazid.
Farag (^pp. 45, 112), his son, had scarcely ascended the
throne, as a boy of thirteen years of age, before the Osmans,
and a little later the Mongols, again began to threaten the
Egyptian dominions. Farag proceeded victoriously as far as
Damascus ; but owing to dissensions among his emirs he
was obliged to retuni to Cairo. After the defeat of the Turks
by the Mongols under Timur at the battle of Angora, Farag
had to enter into negotiations with Timur. The latter years
of Farags reign were constantly disturbed by the rebellions
of his emirs, particularly Sheikh el-Mahmudi, who after-
wards became Svltan El-Muaiyad. Farag was at length
compelled^ by the insurgents to capitulate at Damascus,
and his execution was followed by the accession of —
Sheikh el-Mahmftdi Muaiyad (p. 69). His reign was chiefly
IV. MEDLEVAl. HISTORY.
occupied with victorious cauipaigns against liis umuly Sy-
rian vassals, in which be was greatly aided by the military
talents of his son Ihrnhlm.
He exacted heavy contributions from Christians and Jews,
and he re-enacted and rigorously enforced the sumptuary laws
of Omar, Mutawakkil, Hakim, and En-Nasir. Not only were
the colours to be worn by the Christians and Jews i)rescribed
(the costume of the former being dark-blue, with black turbans,
and a wooden cross weiiihing 51b3. hung round their necks :
(hat of the latter, yellow, with black turbans, and a black
ball hung from their necks); but tlie fashion of their dress and
length of their turbans, and even the costume of their women,
were so regulated as entirely to distinguish them from the
followers of the prophet.
El-Ashraf Bars Bey (Bursbey; pp. 53, 113j, who Ji.iil tor a
time been the vicegerent of an infant sultan, ascended the
throne on April 1st, 1422. He waged successful campaigns
against Cyprus and the Mongols.
K&it Bey (pp. 73, 113) was one of the last independent
Mameluke sultans of Egypt. Both as a general and a diplo-
matist he successfully maintained his position against the
Turks (Sultans Mohammed and Bayazid), and even inflicted
serious losses on them ; but the refractory Mamelukes ob-
structed his undertakings and in 1496 compelled him to
abdicate in favour of his son Mohammed, a boy of fourteen.
EI-Ghftri, Kdiisuh el-Oliuri (p. 59), once a slave of Kai't
Bey, was upwards of sixty years of age when he ascended
the throne, but he still possessed sufficient vigour to keep
the unruly emirs in check. Already seriously injured by
the discovery of the Cape route to India by,' the Portuguese,
the trade of Egypt was terribly depressed by high taxes
and by the accompanying debasement of the coinage. At
the instigation of the Venetians, El-Ghuri equipped a fleet
against the Portuguese in India, and in 1508 he gained a
naval victory over Lorenzo, son of the viceroy Francisco
d'Almeida, at Chaul, nearjBombay; but;in 1509 his fleet
was compelled to retreat to Arabia. El-Ghiiri fell, while
fighting against the army of the Osman sultan Selim I. on
the plain of Merj Dabik (N. of Aleppo).
THindn Bey (p. 61) was dethroned by tjie Osman Stiltan
Selim I. of Constantinople (pp. 45, 120). Cairo was taken
by storm. Egypt thenceforth became a Turkish Fashalie.
Selim compelled Mutawakkil, the last .scion of the family
of the Abbaside caliphs, to convey to him' his nominal
supremacy, and thus became Khali f (Caliph), the spiritual
and temporal sovereign of all the professors of El-Islam, t
t The Osman sultans^ claim to the caliphate is based upon this'act.
The caliph is not in any sense the -pope' of the Mohammedans, as; he
claims no spiritual power. He is the temporal head of the true believer."
and their champion in the holy war. The caliphate of the Osmana is only
IV. MODERN HISTORY.
III. Modern History.
Turkish Domination after 1517.
The autliority of the Osman sultans soon declined, and with
it that of their governors. The Egyptian pashas ■were now
obliged, before passing any new measure, to obtain the
consent of the 24 Mameluke Beys, or princes, who governed
the different provinces. These beys collected the taxes, com-
manded the militia, and merely paid tribute to the pasha.
'Ali Bey, originally a slave, raised himself to the dignity
of an independent sultan of Egypt. He conquered Syria,
but died on the point of returning to Egypt, where his
son-in-law Mohammed Bey Abu Dahab (p. 58) had seized
the throne. After Dahab's death the beys —
Murdd and Ibrahim shared the supremacy, and rendered
themselves almost independent of Turkey.
The French Occupation.
Napoleon Bonaparte (pp. 30, 46, 183) arrived at Alexan-
dria, lioping to destroy the British trade in the Mediter-
ranean, and, by occupying Egypt, to neutralize the power
of England in India.
Storming of Alexandria.
The Mameluke Bey Murad defeated.
Battle of the Pyramids (p. 79).
Destruction of the French fleet at Abukir by the B^itisl^
fleet commanded by Nelson (p. 30).
Insurrection at Cairo quelled.
Central and Upper Egypt conquered.
Defeat of the Turks at Abukir (p. 30).
Napoleon returned from Alexandria to France, leaving
General Kl^er in Egypt.
Kleber defeated the Turks at Matariyeh (p. 120).
KMber was assassinated at Cairo (p. 46).
The French were compelled by a British army to capitulate
in Cairo and Alexandria, and to evacuate Egypt.
Hohammed Ali and his Successors.
The retirement of the French was contemporary with the rise
of the star of Mohammed All, the ablest ruler that the East
has produced for a long time. Born at Kavala in Macedonia
in 1769, as the son of an agha of police, he was orphaned
a de facto caliphate, as according to the Sheri''a fp. Ixxxvi) the caliph must
be a descendant of the Knreishites, the Arab tribe to which Jlohammed
and the earlier caliphs belonged. On this aceoTint many of Ihc Sunnites
do not recognize ihe caliiihate if the Osmans. The Turkisli court theo-
logians declare that this is not a necessary condition, bi:t that <^od makes
the final decision in the success with which he. endows the caliph. The
Shiitt's have never recognized the Osnn an caliphs as they are not descended
from Ali.
IV. MODERN HISTOKY.
1833.
1839.
at an early age and was brought up by the governor of his
native toAvn, whose daughter he married. He was sent to
Egypt in 1800 as a captain in the contingent from Kavala
and so distinguished himself in action against the French
that Kuiritf Pasha^ the new governor, appointed him bim-
bashi (colonel) of a corps of Albanians in the contests be-
tween the Turks and the Mamelukes. In this position Mo-
hammed adopted the policy of apparent impartiality, while
he worked (in secret lor the destruction of both parties.
When the Turkish governor was expelled Mohammed Ali
became pasha, with the approval of the Porte, and on
Aug. ;?rd, 1805, he took possession of the citadel of Cairo
(p. 46). The British meanwhile had occupied Alexandria
andDamietta, but Mohammed, allying himself with the
Mamelukes, inflicted two defeats upon them, in consequence
of which the British fleet withdrew in autumn, 1807. The
pasha next disembarrassed himself of his now inconvenient
allies by inviting the Mameluke beys to Cairo, where they,
with their followers (480 in all), were treacherously mas-
sacred in the citadel by Mohammed's Albanians, on March
1st, 1811 (p. 68).
A campaign, begun in 1811 by Mohammed on behalf of the
Porte against the Wahabis (p. xci), who had taken pos-
session of Arabia, was brought to a successful close in 1816
by Mohammed's son Tusun. A fresh insurrection of the
AVahabis was suppressed in 1819 by Mohammed's adop-
tive son Ibrahim Pwha^ a military genius of the first order.
Mohammed now turned his attention to military reforms. He
employed his lawless Albanians in Nubia and the Sudan
(where^his son Isma'il perished, p. 422) and created a home
army of fellahin, which showed its prowess in 1824-27,
under Ibrahim, in helping the sultan'in the Greek war of
independence, until the Turkish-Egyptian fleet was anni-
hilated at the battle of Navarino (1827).
To increase the strength and resources of Egypt Mohammed
energetically encouraged agricultural improvements and
introduced various manufacturing industries (comp. p. Ixv).
After the Kussian victories over Turkey in 1828-29 he de-
cided that the moment had come to free himself from the
suzerainty of the Porte. At the beginning of 18B2 Ibrahim
invaded .'^yria and within a]year he was master of Asia Mitior,
init the intervention of the European powers compelled Mo-
hammed to concludethe peace of Kutnhia orKonia in 1833,
which was favourable to the Porte. Sultan Mahmud 11.
renewed hostilites in 1839 against Mohanimed Ali, who
had extended his power over S.AV. Arabia, but the Turkish
army was decisively defeated on June 24th by Ibrahim at
IV. MODEUN HISTORY.
Nisib, near Birejik, to the W. of the Euphrates, and on the
deatli of the sultan (1st July , 1839) Ahmed Pasha , the
Turkish high admiral, and the entire Turkish fleet declared
for Mohammed. The armed intervention of England and
Austria, however, obliged Mohammed to yield to the Porte
a second time. By the so-called lirmau of investiture of
1841 the sultan assured the hereditary sovereignty of
Egypt to the Caniily of Mohammed Ali, according to the
Turkish law of succession (seniorate), and granted to the
pasha the right of concluding non- political treaties and
of appointing all Egyptian officials and officers up to the
rank of colonel. In return the pasha was required to pay
to the Porte an annual tribute of 80,000 purses (318,930i.).
During the last years of his life Mohammed fell into a
state of iml)ecility. He died on Aug. 2nd, 1849, in his
palace at Shubra.
Ibrd,him had already taken the reins of government, in con-
sequence of Mohammed's incapacity, in Jan., 1848, tut
he died in November of the same year, before his adop-
tive father.
'Abb&sl., a son ofTusun(p. cxxi), had all the dislike of a true
son of the desert for European innovations. He, however,
maintained the strictest discipline among his officials.
Sa'ld, his successor, was Mohammed All's fourth son. He
equalized the incidence of taxation, abolished jnonopolies,
completed the railways from Cairo to Alexandiia and to
Suez, and, above all, zealously supported the scheme for
the Suez Canal. During the Crimean war he was oljliged
to send an auxiliary army and considerable sums of
money to the aid of the Porte. He died in 1863 and was
succeeded by —
IsmS-'il, the second son of Ibrahim Pasha (b. 1830 ). Isma'il
had received the greater part of his education in France
and had there acquired the strong preference for European
institutions which characterized Mm throughout his reign.
Most of his innovations, however, such as the foundation
of manufactories and the construction of canals, railways,
bridges, and telegraphs, vrere planned mainly in his own
interest, though of course the country shared in the ad-
vantage, while even in the establishment of schools, there-
organisation of the system of justice (p. xx), and the like,
he acted rather with an eye to produce an impression in
Europe than from real concern for the needs of his subjects.
As time went on he succeeded in appropriating for Ms own
use about one-fifth of the cultivable land of Egypt. In 1866,
in consideration of a large sum of money, he obtained the
sanction of the Porte to a new order of succession based
IV. MODI.liN HISTORY.
oil the law of primogeiiituic, and in 1867 he was raised to
the rank of Khedive, or viceroy, having previously horns
the title of icali, or governor of a province only. In 1869
the Suez Canal was opened (p. 184). In 1873 the Khe-
dive obtained a new firman confinning and extending his
privileges (independence of administration and judiciaries;
right of concluding treaties with foreign countries; right
of coining money; right of borrowing money ; permission
to increase his army to 30,000 men). The annual tribute
payable to the Porte was fixed at 133,635 purses (about
700. 000^). The warlike successes of the Khedive re-
sulted in the extension of his dominions to the borders
of Abyssinia and. on the S., to the 2nd parallel of N. lati-
tude. — The burden of the public debt had now iucreased
to upwards of 100,000, OOOZ., one loan after another hav-
ing been negotiated. The Powers brought such a pressure
to bear on the Khedive that he was compelled to resign
his private and family estates to the state and to accept a
ministry under the presidency of Nubar Pasha, with the
portfolio of public works entrusted to M. Blignieres and
that of finance to Mr. Rivers Wilson. This coalition, how-
ever, soon proved unworkable; and early in 1879 the
whole cabinet was replaced by a native ministry under
Sherif Pasha. The patience of the Great Powers was now
at an end; and on the initiative of Germany they de-
manded from the Porte the deposition of Isma'il. which
accordingly took place on June 26th. He died at Constan-
tinople in 1895.
Isma'il was succeeded by his son Tauflk (or Tewfik, in the
Turkish pronunciation), under whom the government was
carried on in a more rational spirit. The debts were reg-
ulated, an international commission of liquidation was
appointed, and an extensive scheme of reform was under-
taken. In Sept., 1881, however, a military revolution
broke otit in Cairo, which had for its chief object the
emancipation of Egypt from European influences. The
Khedive was besieged in his palace and had to yield; he
,'ippointed Sherif president of a new ministry and arranged
for an election of Notables, or representatives. As the
latter espoused the 'national' cause, Sherif resigned in
Feb., 1882, and Mahmiid Pasha formed a new ministry,
the soul of which was Arabi Bey, the energetic minister
of war. This cabinet at once proceeded, without receiving
the consent of the Khedive, to pass several measures in-
tended to diminish the Europein influence in the politi-
cal and financial administration of the country. At the
end of May the Briti.';h and French fleets made their ap-
IV. MODERN HISTORY.
pearance before Alexandria. In tke middle of June serious
disturbances broke out in that town, in the course of which
many Europeans were killed, while the others found re-
fuge on board the ships. On July 11th and 12th Alexandria
was bombarded by the British fleet, and on Sept. 13th
the fortified camp of Arabi at Tell el-Kebir (p. 181) was
stormed by a British force under Sir Garnet Wolseley.
Arabi and his associates were captured and sent as exiles to
Ceylon. Since then British influence has been paramount
in Egypt. Arabi, who had been released and pensioned
in 1901, died at Cairo in 1911.
In 1883 Sir Evelyn Baring (afterwards Lord Cromer) be-
came British diplomatic agent and consul-general in
Egypt. In his hands lay the control of British policy in that
country and he has won high distinction as one of the
makers of modern Egypt. In the autumn of the same
year a widespread rebellion broke out among the Nubian
tribes of the Sudan under the leadership of Mohammed
Ahmed, the so-called 'Mahdi' (p. xcil, which proved fatal
to the Egyptian supremacy in the Sudan. An Egyptian
force of 10,000 men nrtder an Englishman named Hicks
Pasha was annihilated in Nov., 1883, by the Mahdi's for-
ces (comp. p. 433), and a second expedition of 3500 re-
gular troops of the Egyptian army, led by Baker Pasha,
was likewise vanquished at Tokar in February, 1884. On
the 18th of the same month General Gordon, wlio had
been Governor General of the Sudan in 1877-79, after a
perilous ride across the desert, entered Khartum, which
he had undertaken to save from the Mahdi; while on
Jan. 29th and March 13th the rebels under the Mahdi's
lieutenant Osman Digna were defeated at Et- Teh and
Tarnd'i by the British under Graham. The Mahdi him-
self, however, still maintained his position near Khartum,
and towards the close. of the year a second British expe-
dition (of 7000 men) was sent out under Wolseley to
rescue Gordon.
Wolseley selected the tedious and laborious Nile route for
this expedition in preference to the shorter but more dan-
gerous desert route from Suakin to Berber. An advanced
brigade under General Stewart was, however, sent on from
Korti at the beginning of 1885, which accomplished its
march across the Bayuda Desert with complete success,
gaining severely contested victories over large bodies
of the Mahdi's followers at Abu Klea (Jan. 17th} and at
Abu Khrilg, near Metemmeh (Jan. 19th). Stewart, how-
ever, was mortally wounded at the latter engagement. The
British reached the Nile at Gubat, just above Metem-
IV. MODERN HISTORY. cxxv
inch, on the evening of Jan. I'.ith, and on Jan. 24th a
small body of men under Sir CLa.-!. Wilson set out forKhar-
tilni in two steamboats which Gordon had sent to meet
them. Sir Charles readied Khartum on the 28th, but found
that it had already fallen on the 2fith, apparently through
treachery, and that Gordon had perished (coinp. p. 427).
The project of reconquering the Egyptian Sudan from the
Mahdists was temporarily abandoned, and Wadi Haifa re-
mained the S. limit of the Khedive's dominions (p. xlvi).
In 1885 the Mahdi died and was succeeded by the Khalifa
'Abdallah. - — Though Snakin became the basis of more or
less desultory operations against Osman Digna, the Bri-
tish devoted their chief attention to developing and im-
proving the administration of Egypt proper. Negotiations
on the part of the Porte, instigated by France and Russia,
to bring the British occupation of Egypt to a close, proved
fruitless. A loan of 9,000,000/. was raised by the British
for the purpose of regulating the Egyptian finances. In
1887 a convention with France established the uncondi-
tional neutrality of the Suez Canal.
The Khedive Taufik died on January 7th, 18U2, and was suc-
ceeded by his eldest son 'Abb&s II. Hilmi (b. May 29th,
1874). His independence of action is controlled by the
British diplomatic agent (see below).
In the spring of 1890 a British-Egyptian military force under
Sir Herbert Kit(!hener (now Viscount Kitchener of Khar-
tiim) commenced operations against the Mahdists to the S.
of Wadi Haifa. On Sept. 2nd, 1898, the army of the Khalifa
'Abdallah was defeated in a decisive engagement at Ker-
reri (p. 431), and Omdurman, the Mahdist capital, on the
left bank of the Nile, opposite Khartum, was taken. Since
then the Egyptian Sudan, reunited to Egypt, has been un-
der a special Anglo-Egyptian administration (see p. 415),
at the head of which is a British Governor-General, or Sirdar.
In Egypt itself numerous reforms were accomplished by the
British administration, and, in especial, much was done to
farther agriculture by the building of light railways and
the extension of the irrigation system.
The Great Nile Dam of Assuan was opened.
Anglo-French understanding by which England promised not
to alter the existing conditions in Egypt, while France gave
up all claim to set any period for the evacuation of Egypt.
Lord Cromer, the British diplomatic agent (1883-1907),
resigned office and was replaced by Sir Eldon Gorst, who
retired in 1911 and was succeeded by —
Viscount Kitchener of Kbartiim (see above).
V. Hieroglyphics.
By I'rofessor G. Steindorff.
Repeated attempts were made in the 17th and 18th centuries
to decipher the peculiar picture-writing of the ancient Egyptians,
the Jesuit father Athanasius Kircher (1601-80) being among the
earliest to take up the subject. It was not, however, until the be-
ginning of the^l9th century that the key was found, though Sacy,
a Frenchman, Akerblad, a Swede, and Thomas Young, the Englisli
physicist (1773-1829), had previously attained a certain amount
of success in theii efforts. Francois Champollion, a Frenchman,
succeeded in 1822 in discovering the long-sought alphabet from a
careful comparison of royal cartouches, and so found the clue to the
principles of the Egyptian style of writing. Champollion afterwards
followed up his initial discovery with such success that he may fairly
rank as the real interpreter of the Egyptian hieroglyphics.
The first clue was aO'orded by the fauinus 'Rose'ita Stone' (now in the
British Museum), discovered in 1799 in the Fort St. .lulien at Eosetta (p. 31).
This tablet of basalt bears three inscriptions: one in the ancient Egyptian
language, written in hieroglyphics, one in the popular language of a
later period, inscribed in demotic characters, and a third in Greek ; but
the tvyo last are merely translations of the first. The subject of the triple
inscription is a decree of the Egyptian priests issued in 196 B.C. in honour
of Ptolemy V. Epiphanes. The first step towards deciphering the hiero-
glyphics was made when it was ascertained that the frequently occurring
groups of signs each enclosed in an oval (so-called cartouche ; comp. p. cxxx)
were the names of kings and that the name of Ptolemy must be found
among them.
Champollion and his successors established the phonetic signi-
fication of a large number of hieroglyphic characters, and it then be-
came possible, from a knowledge of Coptic, the latest form of the
ancient Egyptian language, not only to read but also to interpret
the inscriptions. H. Brugsch, who led the way to the complete
interpretation of demotic texts, was also the first to point out that
in hieroglyphic writing, as in the Semitic systems of writing, only
the consonants were inscribed, while the vowels were omitted as
not essential.
The Egyptian hieroglyphics form a system of picture-writing,
in which concrete objects were originally expressed by pictures re-
presenting them ('i.e. by so-called ideographs) ; e.g.
'Face' hr '^ 'Eye' yrt -Oi-
'Moon' y'h /"^^^ 'Sun' r' Q
'Pigeon' wr "^^ 'Plough' hb' J^
Abstract ideas and verbs were represented on the same principle
by the use of pictures of objects suggesting in some sort the idea
to be expressed. Thus the idea 'to rule' hk'' was expressed by the
picture of a sceptre f, 'Upper Egypt' sm' by a lily ^L< , its botanical
emblem, 'to write' sft, by ,a writing apparatus H 131 , etc.
V. HIEROGLYPHICS. oxxvii
A great ailTance was made when words, for which there was
110 special sign, began to bo expressed by the pictures of other
and (lifl'crent objects, the phonetic significance of which, however,
happened to be the same. Thus, e.g., pr 'to go out" was expressed by
the picture of a house L_ J, because a 'house' also was called pr ;
s' 'son' by a 'goose' n^^ « ; ipy 'first' by the sign U tp 'dagger'.
Many of these cliaracters jiradually came to be used torso many
diflereut words that their original word-signification was lost, and
they thenceforth were used as of purely syllabic value. Thus, the
sign A^ p\ originally 'to fly', was afterwards used for the syllable p'
in any signification; irr, originally 'pigeon' and afterward^ also vr
'great', was used for any syllable i/r. In this way word-signs also
came to be used as letters; e.g. <dZ> r 'mouth' was used for r;
I • I s 'lake' for i; ) j-' 'serpent' (t is the feminine termina-
tion) for s; etc. ^
These syllabic and literal signs were probably used at first
for grammatical purposes only (as suffixes), but afterwards, owing
to frequent ambiguities in the significance of the verbal signs, they
were used to indicate the pronunciation in each particular rase
and thus to render the reading easier. Thus to the sign ^^^ ur
'great' a <CZ> r was frequently added , written thus ^^=* irr,
in order to indicate the pronunciation; or "Y" 'nh 'to live' was
followed by the two explanatory consonants /wwv\ n and ® h,
thus ■¥* ^ 'nh: or v -^ nh 'lord' was preceded by aaaa^^ n, thus
"^^ nb. Frequently all the consonants in a word were written
instead of merely the verbal sign, thus [] ® j\j\J\ '^ht 'field' in-
stead of |1| iht.
In addition to these there was another class of hieroglyphics,
known as Determinatives, which were placed after the word in
order to give some hint as to its meaning. Thus, e.g., swr 'to
drink' is written ^s=* ^A, with the determinative ^7\ (a man with
his finger in his mouth) in order to indicate that the idea expressed
bysiurhas something to do with the mouth. These determinatives,
which greatly facilitate the reading of inscriptions, were freely used,
especially in later hieroglyphic periods.
The hieroglyphic system, as we find it in the earlier Egyptian
inscriptions, is already complete ; its develspment, briefly sketched
above, had already come to a close. The following difi'erent classes
of hieroglyphic characters were used simultaneously.
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
1. Phonetic Symbols.
a. Alpliabetic Siyns or Lelters, of which there were 24 in the earliest
Egyptian alphabet.
(covresponds to the Ar-
abic klif, p. xxix).
y (in many cases in later in-
scriptions this sound disap-
pears and is replaced by a
simple breathing like ').
n ' (a peculiar guttural
breathing, corresponding to
the Arabic 'Ain , p. xxix).
w (as in 'vvelT), u.
p.
h (an emphasized h -sound,
like the Arabic Hd, p. xxix).
h (kh, as 'ch' in the Scottish
'loch').
h (kh, resembling the pre-
ceding).
(sh).
k (a sharp k - sound , pro-
nounced at the back of the
throat, corresponding to the
Arabic Kaf).
th and sometimes t (in con-
sequence of an ancient
change of pronunciation),
d, I (a clear, sharp t-sound,
' like the Arabic To),
z (an emphasized s or z) and
sometimes { (in consequence
" an ancient change in pro-
nunciation).
yj
Several other alphabetic signs were afterwards added; e.g.
\\ Vt ^ '") ' '") rn ") ^t'"- ^or the vowels, comp. p. c.xxvi
b. Syllabic Signs, of which some of the most important should
be noted. t
9.
10.
15. K^ hm.
16. _^a^ rw.
t The selection of syllabic and verbal symbols here given has been
made with a view to assist the traveller in deciphering the names of the
kings in the list given on pp. cxxxiii et seq.
V. HIEROGLYPHICS. cix
2. Word Signs.
a. In their original signification.
1. O r', Sun, the sun-god Re. ©^
9. V\ f^>'^, the god Horus.
'~- -—^'7 ?*'-<, fore-part; front. _^E^
3. /''^^^ y'h, moon. 'e^ „
• ' 10. J^ nwti/, the t'od Thout.
4. af) jr'(, the goddess M"t (A/rtaO-
11. c^-y^. ,'ihk, the god Sobek.
5. S^ Sth, the god Seth. I'i. f At', to rule ; prince.
. Q _ 13. "O" y's heart.
(5. %M fl', the sun-god Re.
^ 14. ^ r, bull.
7. ^ ]'?«» Cmn), the god Anion. ^r, ^^ /] „j<^ ^ be sirong.
/i g. IB. A-«=^ Aw, to reign.
8. ivn" «A, the ijod I't.-ih. "^ '
ill ■ IT. ^ s6', star.
b. In their derived signification.
A "1 wsf (originally 'sceptre'}, ^.j r|i yum (originally 'column'), On
strong. ^ ■ n (Holiopolis).
o ^ ^' f'O (originally 'sacn-d '^
~' I '■ pillar'.), to remain. 14. n7r (orig. 'textile fabric'), god.
Q (1 fjiH (originally 'hammer'), i
■ V ' majesty. 1,5. H 'it (ovig. 'seat'), Isis.
4 ^ J)'''!/ (originally 'chessman'),
■ U strength. ^ ^,,, (^^i^, .^j^j,^^ ,p;,.jt^
5. VJ^ ?'*' (originally 'hasket I, "• ^'^J^ " to shine.
festival. -'-1
G. W^ f«V, splendid. IT. >CZK ^'|■l, the goddess Neith.
7. \g\^ s' (oi'ig. 'goose'), son. 18. a ich, to add to.
o // «?/!«« (orig. 'lez of an animal'), .„ 0 Vi (orig. 'sandal -.strap'), to
"• I to repeat. ^^- T " live.
9. J} .sXorig. 'axe'), to choose, ^q 'g^ rwt (orig. 'bow-string'), to
10. ^^:j 6' (orig. 'ram'), soul. S'"^-
A<p (orig. 'table of offer- ~1- f^'^ «* (o"^- 'chain'), gold.
'ne«'>' to be content. (^ j^,. ^^^.j^ .,,eej,e'3^ to ^^,
12. 1 1 mr (orig. 'lake'), to love. "" w come, be, exist.
Baedekkk's l"'gypt. 7th ICdit. i
tx V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
3. Determinatives.
E.g. M^i man; ^ woman; i, tree;
Louse; © town;
' "^ ' abstract idea. To this class belong also the sign of the plural
III / I J and the oval ring C > (the so-railed 'cartouche') placed
round the names 'of kings.
These various classes of signs , wliich were used in accord-
ance with certain fixed rules of orthography, were employed in
writing Egyptian words; e.g. ' ' j mn, 'to remain' (syllabic
sign i"""'l mn , sound aaaaa^ n, determinative for an abstract
ideai=±f=3); r-,"^ s/', 'time' (—»—«, D P, © word-sign sp). We
cannot, of course, pronounce tliese words tliat are written without
vowels ; but in many instancfs, by the aid of Coptic (p. cxxxi) or of
Cuneiform or Greek transliterations ( especially in the rase of proper
names), we learn what was the pronunciation at later periods, and are
thus able to supply vowels to the consonantal skeletons. We know,
e.g. J that the Coptic for 'time' is sop, and we therefore read the
above hieroglyphic as sop. When, however, no such guide is
obtainable it is the custom of Egyptologists to render the words
articulate by inserting an e; thus S^^ /^ , 'bull'. Is read ke\
Hieroglyphics are usually written from right to left, sometiaies
in perpendicular rows, sometimes in horizontal rows; occasionally,
but quite exceptionally and only for decorative purposes, they
are written from left to right. For the sake of convenience modern
reproductions of hieroglyphics are written or printed from left to
right. It was almost a matter of course that both the shapes of the
hieroglyphics and the orthography of the words should vary very
greatly in the course of the thousands of years during which the
system was used; and with a little trouble the traveller will soon
learn to distinguish the simple and bold characters of the Early
Empire from the ornate symbols of the 18th Dyn. (e.g. in. the temple
at Abydos) and from the small crowded hieroglyphics of the Ptole-
maic period.
When the picture characters instead of being carved by the
chisel were written with a reed-pen upon papyrus, fragments of
limestone, or wooden tablets, they generally assumed a simpler and
more rounded form. In this way arose a system of Literary Hiero-
glyphic, which we meet with mainly in carefully-executed religious
manuscripts.
For the purposes of ordinary writings this system was still
further simplified and abbreviated and for the sake of speed the
separate characters were often united, thus forming a Writing or
V. HIEROGLYPHICS. cixxi
Cursive i>lyle, which is usually termed Ilierntic Writing. la this
style the owl '^X m, which in literary hieroglyphics (written from
right to left) had the form
/y J^ , degenerates into y
outline scarcely recognizable as that of an owl. In hieratic writing
we possess literary works of almost every kind except dramas. —
Further abbreviations and amalgamations of letters developed an-
other cursive style from the hieratic, viz. the Enchorial or Demotic,
which was the ordinary character employed in the Graco-Roman
period. The sign of the owl, for example, was curtailed to ^. This
writing was chiefly used for contracts, accounts, letters, and similar
documents, whence it was sometimes termed the Epistolographic,
or 'epistolary character', by the Greeks.
During the second century after Christ Egyptian magical formul<'R
were frequently written in Greek characters; and after the intro-
duction of Christianity it became the universal custom to write the
Egyptian translations of the Scriptures in the simpler Greek letters
instead of in the inconvenient hieroglyphics, which were at the
same time more diflicult to learn. But as the Greek alphabet was
not adequate to represent all the Egyptian sounds (e.g. s/j, f, kh, eti-. )
seven supplementary symbols ^ were borrowed from the demotic.
Thus arose the Coptic Writing of the Egyptian Christians.
The use of hieroglyphics extended beyond the borders of Egypt,
especially into Nubia, where thry were employed in the temples
built by the Pharaohs. And even after the Nubian -Ethiopian
kingdom bei-ame imlependent of Egypt in the 8th cent. B.C.,
hieroglyphics siill continvied to be used there. At first, however,
only inscriptions in the Egyptian language were thus written ; some
time elapsed before hieroglyphics were adapted to the native lan-
guage, which was allied to the modern Nubian tongue. In the
course of this adaptation various formal modifications took place,
resulting in a Mero'itic Hieroylypliic System, which has not as yet
been fully deciphered. In the post-Christian era a Mero'itic Cursive
Style also, probably based on the demotic, was developed (comp.
p. 386). This also has only partly been deciphered.
The following hints will be of service to those who may try to
decipher any of the kings' names with the aid of the foregoing
lists, consulting first the list of phonetic symbols, then that of
the verbal signs. The Egyptian kings frequently had several
names, the two most important of which, viz. the official name
and the individual name, are enclosed within the cartouche. The
official name is preceded by the title ^pi^ n-s'ict bity, 'King of
t UI «A, « /, S5 tti, o h, (^ g (not identical with the Greek y)) "ZS. «,
ilj, and the syllabic ■^ li.
cxxxii V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
Upper and Lower Kgypt', and frequently also by ., ... ■ neb tev)y,
'lord of both lands' (p. xcix), or v_^ , | , neb he'w, 'lord of the
diadems'. The title ^x^ s' -B' (se' Re'), 'son of the sun', is an ad-
dition to the individual or hirth name. Thutmosis III., for ex-
ample, a king of the 18th Dyn., was named —
The former is his official name, assumed at his accession to the
throne, the latter his individual name. O is the original word-sign
(No. 1} r', 'sun, sun-god Re'; i"""'i is the syllabic sign [No. l)rrm,
liere, however, standing for 'to remain' ; M is the transferred word-
sign (No. 22) hpr, 'to become, to be'. The first name therefore is
R'-mn-hpr, or, rather, as the words signifying god or king are written
first out of reverence merely, mn-hpr-R', 'remains the being of Re'
(vocalized Men-heper-Re% or, according to the system described
below, Men-lcheper-Re). In the second cartouche -^^ is the
original word-sign (No. 10) Thivty, 'the ibis-god Thout'; ^^ and
\\ are the letters t and y, indicating the final syllable of Thivty;
m is the syllabic sign (No. 5) ins; and u the letter s, added to show
the sound of ms. The whole is thus Thwiy-mi {i.e. 'the god Thout
lias created'), corresponding to the Greek Thutmosis, and probably
to be vocalized Thut-mose.
It may here be remarked that the Egyptian names oicurring in
the Handbook are usually written in the traditional Greek form
and not in the native Egyptian; e.g. Sethos instead of Sthy, Klieops
(Cheops) instead of Hxofw (Khwfio or Khufu). For names, however,
of which the Egyptian forms are more familiar, or of which there
are no known Greek transliterations, the Egyptian forms have been
retained, with vowels inserted on the principles explained above.
In these cases, however, the diacritical signs are omitted, so that no
difference is made between t and t, z and s, k and fc, h and h; w is
sometimes represented by u; y by i; h and h by kh; «'by s; and in
certain cases y is altogether omitted. The apostrophes ' and ' are
uniformly omitted. In short, the general rules adopted by the
Greeks for the transliteration of Egyptian words are followed.
V. HIEKOGLYPUICS-
4. Frequently Becurring Cartouches of Egyptian Kings, t
Kliefre Men
Snoti-u.
(Meues). ^ >, (Kheops). phren). (Myke- / \ /" V
4. rinos).4. / \ ( \
1.
ij^u^
n
i^y^\±J
Nuserre.
5.
U
, UU
v_y v_y v_y v_y
o
AAftAAA
1P
Ease. 5. Unis
(Onnos).
5.
A/-yV\AA
Teti Merenre „ . Nefer-ke-re Entef. Mentu- . ,-4t io
(Othoes). (Methu- Pepi (phiopg n.) u. hotep. 11. Amenemhet I. U.
6. suphis). (Pliiops).' g. ^ <^ ^-i~«.
6. b X---V f \f ^
r^
^^^^-=^
Senwosret
(Sesostris) I. 12.
Senwosret Senwosret
Amenemhet n. 12. (Sesostris) II. 12. (Sesostvis) UI. 12.
Q
1P
o
UU
u
r^^^^^
Amenemhet III. 12.
o
AAAAAA
L-^
V z
Amenemhet IV. 12.
G
t The Arabic numbers place'l after the names are those of the difTerent
Dynasties. Where two cartouchps are jjivon the first cdntains the official
cognomen assumed by the king on his accession, while the second is his
individual or birth name.
V. HIEHOGLYPHICS.
Royal
Seken- Ahmojie (Amo- Amenhotep (Amen- Thutniose (Thut-
yenre.16. sis). 17. ophis) I. 17. mosis) I. 18.
AA/VVV\
,^ w
(fiP
o
u
^ D
V^!b ^
Kemare
Hatshepsut. 18. Thutmosis II. 18. Thutmosis III. 18. Amenophis II. 18.
Amenophis IV.
Thutmosis IV. 18. Amenophis III. 18. (Ekh-en-Aton). 18.
Haremheb (Ilar-
niais). 18.
Cartouches.
Merenptali
(Amenephthes). 19.
•f=T
M
1 — I
Kamses VII.(Lepsias,
Kamses IV. 20. Ramses V. 20. Ramses VI. 20. Ramses VIII.) 20.
Ramsei
Q
V
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
Setliy (Sethos) II. 19.
cxxxv
Ramses III. 20.
Q d
D
LJ
)^^
o
W
IvamsesVIU. (Leps., Ramses X. (Leps., Ramses XI. (Leps.,
Ramses XI.) 20. Ramses IX. 20. Ramses VII.) 20. Ramses X.) 20.
[I. (Leps.
i.1.) 20.
a
'I
1 — I
AAAAA/\ III I 1
Q
^
r-^
e
0
r->
s
nfl^^
Ramses XII. (Lep.s., Shoslienk (Se.sonchis) I. 22.
Ramses XIII.) 20. ^^ ,,,,,,, <> f ^ aaaaaa
V .. vA f| .!= 2iJ
o
Q
^
Osorkdii I. 22.
^ l!ekenranf
(Bocchoris).
24.
\
^
Takelothis I. 22.
">
^
^^ ^=^ <=^
_/j AAAAAA >t_^y]
Shabako (Sabakon). 25.
I AW/W\ (1
S
a^u
3
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
Royal
Taharka (Tirhakah). 25. Psametik (Psam- Nekaw Psametik (Psam-
metichos) I. 26. (Necho). 26. metichos) II. 26.
G
Queen Anienertais.
AftAAAA
±i_L]
Weh-eb-re
(Apries. Uapliris.
Hophrah). 26.
II.
26.
v_J
k-J
\^\ z
Kheshye-
Kambizet Entaryush resh
Alimose 11 (Camhyses). (Darius). (Xer.xes).
(Amasis). 26. 27. 27. 27.
J fl
V-^ v_^ v_y
-2^
Neklit-Har-ehbet Nekhte-nebof
(Nektanebes). 30. (Nektanebos). 30.
Alexander Philippus
the Great. Arrhidjeus.
m
r^
T=^
f.—O
Ptulmis (Ptolemy I. Soter I.).
Ptolemy II. I'hiladelpbus I
A \^ I I 1 AAAA
J
D Us .^
J
^^e^flflT)
Cartouchea.
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
Queen
Arsinoe.
Ptolemy III. Euer-
getes I.
-<2>-
V
Oi
111
*^
f]
_g:^
Queen
Berenice.
Ptolemy IV. Philo-
pator I.
f
f]
_£3C.
11
I'tolemy V. Kpi-
phanes.
r~^,
ci I ci
T=T
iTp
V ^
I'tolemy VI.
Pbilometor.
nil
^ o
Ptolemy IX. Euerge-
tes II. (Phyakon).
rii
AA/NAAA
D
'i 1
If]
llfl
V J
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
RoyaL
_gaE.
Ptolemy X. Soter II.
(ir Philometor II.,
usually known
as Latbyrns.
Cleopatra VI., with C8esarion,
her son by Csesar and nominal
co-regent.
— o
A
(^ D
0-
O I
_2^
(2 a=
(3^
_23&
\ I
Autokrator
(absolute mon-
arch) and Kai-
saros (Cffisar).
Epithets of all
the emperors.
'^:^\^
Csesar
Augustus. Tiberius.
Q
°|ji:
' — <
Caius Ca- Claudius
ligula. (Tiberius).
A
(3 o,
\'\
^
Cartouches
V. HIEROGLYPHICS.
Nero. Vespasian.
D W
LJ
i_5y
G
Domi
tian.
Traian. Hadrian.
r-^ r-^ r~^
^:q
0 ^
0 ^
!^^ !^-^
,0^
AAA/WA
^ w
©
V_^
Antoninus
Pius.
"18
JP]
^P
* (^
AA/WV
^ w
51 arc US
Aureliufl. Coiumodus.
AAAA/VA
f
V >
^X7
A D
X7 D
O
Antoninus
Severus. (Oaracalla). Geta.
AAAAAA
^ w
©
0
/V\AAA^
©
AAA/WV
'^ w
©
L-J LJ
Deoius.
©
k-^
cxl
VI. Religion of the Ancient Egyptians.
By Pfofetior G. Steindorff.
In spite of the numerous religious inscriptions and represent-
ations that have come down to us from Egyptian antiquity our
knowledge of the Egyptian religion is still comparatively slight. We
are indeed acquainted with the names and aspects of many deities,
and we know in what temples they were worshipped, hut of the true
essence of these deities, of the particular significance attributed to
them by priests and people, of the myths attached to the personality
of each, we know very little. The Egyptians themselves never evolved
a clear and complete religions system. Their faith accepted the most
glaring incongruities; and no attempt was made to harmonize pop-
ular credulity with the esoteric wisdom of the priests, or to recon-
cile tradition with later accretions.
The complicated religion which the texts of later times make
known to us did not exist in prehistoric days. Originally the country
was divided into a number of town and village communes, each one
of which had its own protecting deity or 'town god'. We know many
of these local deities, without, however, being able to assert posi-
tively their original locality. Among them were Horus^ who was
worshipped in Buto, the ancient capital of Lower Egypt,; Thout,
the patron deity of Hermopolis ; Osiris, originally worshipped at
Busiris in the Delta; the gods Ptah of Memphis, '.ffera/ie/' of Hera-
cleopolis, Atum of Ileliopolis, Sobek, who was worshipped in the
Faiyiim , etc. Frequently there are goddesses also who appear as
protecting divinities of places : e.g. Neith, worshipped in Sa'is, and
Hathor of Dendera. These local deities have often lost their ori-
ginal names, and in many eases were known only by some attribute
or some legendary name. Thus, e.g., the lion - goddess who was
worshipped in the vicinity of Memphis was known as Sekhmet, i.e.
'the mighty'; the god worshipped in Assitit in the form of a wolf
was named Wep-wawet, the 'Path Opener', probably because his
image, borne in the van of the troops, led the way into the enemy's
country; the local deity of This was called Enhuret (Greek Onuris),
'he who fetched the distant one', probably because according to an
ancient legend he was said to have brought a lion-goddess, who was
worshipped along with him, from a foreign land. Other local deities
came to be called after the town to which they belonged. Thus the
cat-goddess of the town of Bast (Bubastis), in the Delta, was known
as Bastet, i.e. 'she of Bast', while the goddess of Nekhab (El-Kab)
was called Nekhbeyet, or 'she of Nekhab'.
The ancient Egyptians originally represented these deities to
themselves under very crude forms, which recall the fetishism still
prevailing among uncivilized African tribes at the present day.
Thus Osiris of Bnsiris (Tetu) was belif ved to dwell in a post, and
the god Min of Koptos was worsliipped under a similar form. In
VI. EGYPTIAN REMOION. oxil
tlie saim-. wjiy a sycamore tree was believed to be the aboile ol' the
goddess Hathor, wlio belonged to the district to the S. of Memphis,
while the god Neferlan was worshipped in the form of a lotus flower,
and the goddess Neith, of Sais, as a bundle of arrows. But the belief
that gods chose animals as their abode and revealed themselves in
the form of animals was much more generally spread; cows, bulls,
rams, goats, crocodiles, cats, lions, ichneumons, frogs, certain kinds
of fishes, ibises, falcons, vultures were all believed to be thus chosen
by one or other god. Thus the god Khnum was represented as a ram,
Horus as a falcon, Thout as an ibis, Sobek as a crocodile, the goddess
Nekhbeyet as a vulture, the goddess of Bubastis as a cat, Hathor of
Dendera as a cow, the local goddess of Athribisasaserpeut, andsoon.
Besides the local deities who were worshipped in the form of
animals there were special sacred animals, distinguished by certain
markings, which were worshipped from a very early period. These
were kept in the temple , and after their death they were interred
with all hoi\our, while theirplace in the temple Mas taken by another.
The best known example of this worship is afforded by the Apis,
the sacred bull, worshipped at Memphis. It was black with white
spots; on the forehead it bore a white triangle and on the right flank
a crescent. Similarly a light-coloured bull ('Afnevis^ was worshipped
at Hcliopolis, at Hermonthis the bull Bucftjs was sacred, as was the
heron Phoenit at IJeliopolis. These sacred animals were connected
with the local deities; the Apis was thus considered to be the 'liv-
ing replica of Ptah', the Phoenix the 'soul of the sun-god'. At a
later period, the worship of sacred animals was carried further. Not
only were these individual 'sacred' animals revered as holy, but
also all the animals in which the local deities inhered. One or more
of these animals was preserved in the temple, and all others of the
same kind, none of which might be killed within the region sacred to
them, were solemnly interred in special cemeteries when they died.
The cat-cemeteries ol Bubastis and Benihasan, tlie crocodile-graves
of Ombos, the ibis-graves of Ashmunein, etc., date from this late
epoch of exaggerated animal- worship, it was probably only this
excessive expansion of animal -worship that struck the Greeks in
Egypt as remarkable. For traces of a similar worship were common
to various oriental peoples, and even among the Greeks and Romans
themselves certain animals were regarded as sacred to the gods, as,
e.g., the lions of Cybele, the owl of Athena, and the eagle of Zeus.
A stage beyond fetishism was reached when the Egyptians, in the
beginning of the historical period, began to form an anthropomorphic
conception of their deities. The gods had human faces and forms
and wore clothing such as the Egyptians themselves wore. Like
princes, they wore on their heads helmets or crowns, and, like the
prima;val rulers, they had tails fastened to the back of their aprons.
They bore the sceptre or the commander s baton as the symbol
of their might. The deities that were conceived of as animals now
cxlii VI: EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
received huiuaii figures, with the heads of the animals in which they
revealed themselves. Thus Sobek appears as a man with a crocodile's
head, Khnum with a ram's head, Thout with an ibis's head, Horus
with a falcon's heart , etc. The various Cow Goddesses have a
human head with cow's horns, while over the vulture goddess
Mut (worshipped in Thebes) a vulture spreads its wings, and the
head of Neith of Sais was adorned with a bundle of arrows, which
was the form in which she was worshipped. Though such a device
cannot but appear strange to us as it did to the Greeks, it must
be confessed that the Egyptian artists in their reliefs and statues
of those animal - headed deities managed the transition from the
animal's head to the human body with remarkable skill.
Besides the local deities, whose spheres of influence were limited
to particular districts, there were even in the earliest times a certain
number of universal deities, who were revered by the whole nation.
Among these were the god Keb (the earth), the goddess Nut (the
sky), the god t'^liow (the air), the goddess Tefnitl (the dew), the sun-
god Be, a masculine deity with the Egyptians as with the Greek-;
(Helios), Hapi (the Nile), and Nun (the ocean); among the stars
Orion and Sothis (Sirius or the Dog Star, a female deity) played the
leading roles. These were all impersonal beings, who revealed them-
selves only in natural phenomena; they were therefore not confined
to any particular place of worship, but were everywhere revered. Only
at a later period, though still in prehistoric times, did these forces
of nature, the great gods of heaven, receive human forms and special
places of worship. Thus the sun-god Re came to be specially wor-
shipped at Ileliopolis, and the divine couple Show and Tefnut as lion-
headed deities at Leontoiipolis (p. 171).
Already at an early period the religious conceptions regarding
many of the gods were deepenetl or expanded, as certain character-
istics became especially emphasized. Thus, e._^., the falcon-headed
Mont, the local god of Ilermonthis, was a war-god; the god Min of
Koptos, where the desert road across the mountains from the Red Sea
joins the valley of the Nile, became the patron deity of travellers in
the desert, then also a god of fertility, whence the Greeks identified
him with Pan; Ptah of Memphis was the patron of artists, metal-
workers, and smiths, and was thus the Egyptian Hephaestos; the
pov/eiiul Sekhmet of Memphis became a terrible war-goddess, who
annihilated the enemy , while on the other hand stress was laid on
the more attractive attributes of Ilathor of Dendera, who was wor-
shipped as the goddess of love and joy (resembling Aphrodite). Many
local deities were connected with the moon and the sun and other
cosmic powers. Thus Thout of Herraopolis was regarded as a moon-
god, who had created the times of day and the cosmic universe; he
was the inventor of hieroglyphic writing and therefore the patron
deity of scribes and scholars. Above all Horus was transformed into
a god of the heavens in connection with the sun and received the
VT. EGYt»TIAN RELIGION. cxliit
name of Jtc-Harakhte, i.e. 'the sun, the Horns who is on the horizoir.
The cow-goddess Uathor (whose name means 'House of Horus) be-
came a goddess of the heavens. .Many local deities came to be wor-
shipped all over the country under these particular characteristics.
Finally there was also a considerable number of lesser deities,
dsemons, and spirits, who exercised influence over human beings,
helping or harming at particular junctures, and who therefore
must be propitiated. Among these rank, for example, the different
Goddesses of Childbirth, who assisted women and could either cut
short or protract their pangs; the grotesque god Bes, the protector
of the marriage chamber and of women in childbirth; various God-
desses of the Harvest, etc. At a later period unusually distinguished
mortals, revered after death as saints, gradually came to be included
among the gods, as, e.g., /m/iofff of Memphis (p. cli), Amenhottp,
the son of Hapu, etc.
Like human beings the god frequently had a wife and a sou,
and in that case this so-called Iriad dwelt and was worshipped in
one temple. Divine families of this kind are exemplified in Ptah,
with his wife Sehhmet and his sou Xefertem, and by Osiris, /.<t5,
and Horus. The theologians of the holy city of On (Heliopolis) even
created a ninefold group (Entiecd) of gods, at the head of which
stood Atum, the local deity of the city. Atum was attended by the
four cosmogonic ileities Shoiv, his wife Tefnut, Keh, and fsut (p. cxlii).
The number nine was made up by Osiris, his wife 7s«\<, Seth (the
ancient god nf Upper Egypt and the legendary antagonist of Osiris;
see below), and his wife Nephth^js. The worship of the nine gods be-
came so popular that it was adopted in many different localities,
the place of Atum being taken by the chief local god in each.
Human passions and virtues were attributed to the gods; and
numerous tales wore told by the faithful of the divine exploits and
adventures. Unfortunately most of these myths have perished; of
the few that have come down to us the best known is the story of
Osiris, which in autiquity also was one of the most widely spread.
Osiris ruled as king over I''gypt and the country enjoyed the bless-
ings of prosperity. But Seth, his wicked brother, conspired against
him, and at a bauquet persuaded him to enter a cunningly wrought
chest, which he and his seventy-two accomplices then closed and
threw into the Nile. The river carried the chest down to the sea,
and the waves at length washed it ashore near the Phoenician Byblos.
Meanwhile Isis roamed in distress throughout the world, seeking
her lost husband; and she at length succeeded in discovering his
coffin, which she carried to Egypt and there mourned over her hus-
band in solitude. She then buried the coffin before going to visit
her son Horus, who was being brought up at Ihito. During her
absence Seth, while engaged in a boar-hunt, found the body of his
brother, cut it into fourteen pieces, and scattered them in every
direction. As soon as Isis learned what had happened she songht
cxliv VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
Tor the fragments, and wherever one was found she bnried it and
erected a monument on the spot to its memory; and this accounts
for the numerous tombs of Osiris mentioned as existing in Kgypt
and elsewhere. When Horus grew up he set out to avenge his
father's murder, and after terrible contests was at last victorious.
According to other accounts the combatants were separated by Thout.
They then divided the country, the S. of Egypt falling to Horus and
the N. to Seth. Osiris was afterwards magically restored to life by
Horus and continued to rule the W. land as king of the dead.
Among the Egyptians as with other peoples the speculations
about the origin of the world, the movements of the heavenly bodies,
and the alternation of day and night were closely bound up with
their religion. Their conception of the world reveals the limited
geographical horizon of the ancient Egyptians. They regarded the
earth as a huge oval plain, floating upon the ocean. From one end
to the other it was traversed by a broad stream, the Nile, which
flows out of the ocean on the S. or rises from two springs near the
cataracts of Assuan. All around rose high mountains, and the sky
was pictured as a flat slab resting upon four mountains, with the
stars hanging from it like lamps. Another view was that the sky
had the same form as the earth, and was traversed by a river and
intersected by numerous canals ; and under the earth there was be-
lieved to be an underworld, called Twet, which was exactly like the
sky and the earth and was peopled by the dead. After the cow-god-
dess Hathor had become a goddess of the heavens (see p. cxliii) the
sky was sometimes conceived of as a cow, with the sun seated be-
tween its horns illuminating the world. Another view was that the
sun sailed in a boat by day on the cow, as on the ocean of the sky,
while the stars were represented on the body of the cow ; Show, the
god of the air, stood below the cow of the heavens and supported it.
The sun and the moon, the principal heavenly bodies, were in
particular the subject of many theories, probably representing the
teachings of the different colleges of priests throughout the country.
A very early idea represented the sun and moon as the eyes of the
great god who created the world. At the same time this great god is
no other than the sun-god Ke himself, so that we have the contra-
dictory idea that the incorporation of the sun (Re) had the sun as an
eye. When Horus became a sun-god the sun and moon were con-
sidered to be his eyes. In one way or another the eye of the sun
played a very important part in Egyptian mythology. It was thought
of as a sun and was transformed into an independent goddess pro-
ceeding from the sun-god. With this eye of the sun are identified
the serpent-goddess Buto, of Lower Egypt, and afterwards other god-
desses also, such as the lion- headed Tefnut and the cow -goddess
Hathor. The eye of the sun was sometimes thought of as a poisonous
serpent (uraeus serpent) rearing itself on the forehead of the sun-god
and breathing fire against his enemies. This idea gave rise to the
VJ. EGYPTIAN RELIGION. cxlv
custom adopted by the kings of Egypt of wearing the uraeus serpent
as a diadem or as an ornament in their crowns. — Another concep-
tion identified the sun with the sun-god Re, who, in the guise of an
Egyptian fisherman, sailed in a boat on the waters of the sky b> day,
and in the evening stepped into another boat and continued his voyage
through the underworld. As the sun-god Re-IIarakhte was a falcon
the sun was sometimes regarded as a brilliantly plumaged falcon
soaring in the firmament ; or like Horus the sun was a powerful young
hero, waging a ceaseless combat with the hostile powers of darkness.
It was conceived of also under the form of a Sairabaeus or beetle
(p. clxxvli); the sun-god was represented in the form of a scara-
baeus rolling the round disk of the sun in front of him, in the same
way as a scarabaeus rolls the small ball in which it has laid its egg.
The Egyptians of course did not believe that the world, the gods,
and human beings had always existed , but that they were created.
The most widespread belief was that Keb^ the god of the earth, and
Nut. the goddess of the sky, lay in close union in Nun, the primaeval
ocean, until Show, the god of the air. separated them by raising Nut
aloft in his arms. The sun-god Re also was supposed to have arisen
from Nun ; another view, however, made him the child of Keb and
Nut, newborn every morning. These ideas of course conflict Mith the
other conception that Re himself created the world (see p. cxliv).
In the course of its history the religion of Egypt underwent
many transformations. The dominant position in the Egyptian pan-
theon shifted from one god to another, either through theological
speculation and the growth of legends, or through the coming into
prominence of royal houses and cities that were devoted to the cult
of particular gods. In the primitive period two independent king-
doms were formed in Upper and Lower Egypt, and Stth, of Ombos,
and Horus, of Buto, the local deities of the two capitals, were re-
cognized as guardians of the two states. After the first union of the
two kingdoms had been operated from Lower Egypt, presumably
with Heliopolis as the capital, Horus became recognized as the sole
royal god, and henceforth remained the pntron of the Pharaohs and
god of the empire. In the latest period of the prehistoric epoch Egypt
was again divided into two kingdoms, the capitals being El-Kab (in
Upper Egypt) and lUito; the patron deity of the former was the vul-
ture-goddess Nekhbeyet, of the latter the .serpent-goddess i>((<o. These
thus became the royal goddesses of Upper and Lower H gypt. In the
same way at the end of the .Ancient Empire Ptah, the local deity of
the capital Memphis, became the patron deity of the whole of Egypt.
An important role in the religious history of Egypt has been played
by the city of On-Heliopolis |p. 120), which was probably the
religious centre of Lower Egypt in the earliest period, and in all
likelihood was tor a time the capital of the united kingdom of Egypt.
The coronation ceremonies of the sovereign seem to have taken place
in the temple of this city, and here, too, according to legend, the
Raedkker'8 Egypt. 7tb Edit. k
cxlvi VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
goddess Seshet inscribed the years of the coining reign on the leaves
of the sacred tree. At On stood also the obelisk-like stone column
of Benben, the chosen seat of the sun-god. The local deity, strictly
speaking, was, however, Atum; and the astute priests of On put this
god on a par with the god of the sun and asserted that he was only
another form, anothername of Ke-Harakhte. This doctrine obtained
a wide currency throughout the country and all the local gods were
promptly identified with Re and invested with the symbol of Re,
viz. the sun-disk with the poisonous royal serpent (uraeus, p.clxxvii)
coiled round it. Thus even the crocodile-god Sobek a.ni Amon of
Thebes became sun-gods. This amalgamation of local deities with
Re, which began under the Middle Empire and was carried to great
lengths under the New Empire, was a fertile source of confusion
in the Egyptian religion. Attempts indeed were made to draw a
distinction among the various forms of Re, Khepre for example
being regarded as the morning-sun and Atum as the evening-sun,
but nothing like a systematic scheme was ever achieved.
In the same way a number of female local deities, especially
when they were of a similar character, were welded into one. Thus
Hathor, the goddess of the sky, was identified with his; the cat-god-
dess Bastet with the lion-goddesses Sekhmet and Pekhet, while Sekh-
met was identified also with the vulture-goddess Mut.
When the centre of the empire was carried farther to the S. under
the Middle Empire and Thebes became the capital in place of Mem-
phis, a new phase began in the development of the Egyptian religion.
Amon, the Theban local god, who had been identified with the sun-
god under the name of Amcn-Re, took precedence of all other gods,
and at the beginning of the New Empire became the head of the Egyp-
tian pantheon. The great campaigns against Nubia and Asia were
waged in his name by the Theban kings, temples were erected to
him in the conquered lands, and the lion's share of the spoil fell to
his shrines in Egypt, especially to the temple at Thebes. Amon, in
short, became the national god, the successful rival of his predecessor
Horns (Re-Harakhte). It was not to be expected that the priests of
Heliopolis should tamely submit to this weakening of their influence.
They therefore eagerly seized the first opportunity of overthrowing
Amon and of restoring the sun-god to his former official dignity.
When AmenophisIV. succeeded to the throne the sun-god of Helio-
polis (Re-Harakhte) regained the position of supreme deity, and
shortly afterwards the sun itself (Egypt. Aton) was announced as
the one and only god. This revolution was doubtless to some extent
prompted by the king's desire to put a stop to the prevailing religious
confusion at a blow, and to make practice square with theory, for
theoretically all the numerous deities had long been explained as
in reality one with the great sun-god (comp. p. 211). The repre-
sentations and names of Amon and his fellow-gods were every-
where obliterated. But after the death of Amenophis the partisans
VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION. cxlvii
of Amon speedily regained the upper handj the uew religion was
aholished and the earlier creed restored. The Egyptian religion re-
mained in its former confusion ; the process of amalgamating different
^ods became more and more common; and religious belief gradually
lost all living reality. Men clung anxiously to the ancient traditions,
and the superstitious belief in amulets and magic as the only pro-
tection against harmful influences gained universal sway. But no
fresh religious conceptions are to be found in the innumerable texts
inscribed upon the temples, tombs, and sarcophagi of the later period.
After the decline of Thebes Amon began to lose his prestige, and
his place was taken by the deities of the Delta, such as Osiris and his
group (Isis, Harpocrates, and Anubis). Under the Ptolemies Osorapis
(Sarapis, Serapis), i.e. the deceased Apis-bull identified with Osiris
(comp. p. 147), became the national deity of Greek Egypt, and the
worship of this god (an infernal deity, like the Pluto of the Greeks)
gradually spread beyond Egypt to the East and subsequently also to
the Roman empire. The old religion of Egypt was gradually van-
quished only by the power of Christianity,
The Future Life. A considerable diversity of doctrine as to the
fate of man after death prevailed amongst the Egyptians, and the
various views were never reduced to a single authoritative creed.
The only point that was common to the whole people was the firm
conviction that the life of man did not end at death, but that on the
contrary men continued to live just as they had lived upon earth,
provided that the necessaries of existence were assured to them. It
thus seemed specially necessary that the body should be carefully
interred and protected from decay. The next step was to build a
house for the deceased, after the pattern of his earthly abode, in
which he might dwell, and which, according to the popular belief,
he could quit at pleasure during the day. Statues, erected in a
special room for the purpose, represented the owner of the house, his
family, and his domestics (p. clxviii). Sacrificial offerings provided
the deceased with food, and pious endowments ensured him against
hunger and thirst even in the distant future. Nor was this all; re-
presentations of food, utensils, etc., were painted or carved upon the
walls of the tomb or the sides of the sarcophagus, and it was believed
that through magic these representations could serve the deceased
in place of the real things. Ornaments, clothing, etc., were likewise
placed in the tomb or depicted on the walls for the same purpose.
The occupations that engrossed the deceased while on earth, the
pleasures that he delighted in, the dignities that he enjoyed, awaited
him beyond the tomb, and these too were represented on the walls
in order that he might really possess them. To this belief we owe
those sepulchral paintings that give us so exact a picture of the life
of the ancient Egyptians. In the earliest times the grandees alone
were allowed to build themselves tombs, and that probably only by
favour of the king. Those who were not attached to the court had
cxlviii VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
to content themselves with simpler tombs, in which the necessaries
for the future life were buried with the bodies. But at a later period
even the ordinary citizens built 'everlasting houses' for themselves,
at least so far as they possessed the means to do so.
The dead were under the protection of the local deities, whose
duty it was to superintend the funeral ceremonies and afford se-
curity in the tomb. There was also in many towns a special god of
the dead, named Khente-Amentiu, 'the first of tlie inhabitants of the
Western Kingdom' (i.e. of the de^d), who was represented in the form
of a dog. At a later date these local gods retired in favour of Osiris.
He was gradually recognized as the ruler of the dead by all Egypt, and
dominion over the departed was assigned to him almost exclusively.
Abydos became the chief religious centre of his cult. The death
which, according to the legend (p. cxliii), Osiris suffered was the com-
mon lot of mortals; but just as Osiris rose again, so a man also could
begin a new life, provided that the same formulae were pronounced
for him by some faithful son; he went to Osiris, became united with
the slain god, in fact was himseU Osiris. Admission to the realm of
Osiris depended upon the recitation of magical formulae and incanta-
tions, a knowledge of which must be communicated to the deceased.
A virtuous earthly life was required to assure the deceased eternal
happiness, and he had therefore to undergo a trial before Osiris and
to prove before 42 judges that he was free from mortal sin. Before
this, and before his heart had been weighed by TJiout in the scales of
righteousness and found perfect, he might not enter the future land.
Opinions differed as to the abode of the blessed dead. Their
dwelling was usually located in the West, among the mountains,
and in the desert where the sun set. Some believed that they in-
habited the heavenly fields of Earn, a fruitful country where plough-
ing and reaping were carried on as upon earth, and where the corn
grew seven ells high, forming a veritable paradise for the Egyp-
tian peasant. As the labour in this future land might often be
too great for the strength of the deceased, it became the custom at
the period of the Middle Empire to place Ushebtis in the tomb along
with him. These little figures of men were imbued with life by a
magic spell written upon them and assisted the deceased when
he was called to work beyond the tomb. Another doctrine sought
to unite the different conceptions of the future life and placed the
abodes of the blessed in Twet, the underworld (see p. cxliv). This
was divided into twelve parts, corresponding to the twelve hours
of night, and, according to a certain view, separated from each other
by massive gates ( comp. pp. 284 et seq.).
In flat contradiction to these doctrines was the popular belief
that man possessed not only a body but also a soul (ba'i), which lived
after death. This was originally conceived of as a bird; at a later
period as a bird with a human head. It was believed that the spirit
left the body at death and flew freely about, but could return to the
VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION. cxlix
body at pleasure, provided, of course, that the latter did not decay.
Thus from ancient times everything was done in Egypt to prevent
the destruction of the body, and so to enable the soul to recognize
its mortal tenement. A prominent place in the belief of the ancient
Egyptians was taken by the Ka, a kind of guardian-spirit or genius,
which was born with the individual and accompanied him through
life as a 'double'. The Ka did not expire with its proteg^ but con-
tinued to live in order to protect the deceased in the future world.
In the earliest period the dead were buried in a crouching postnie
with their knees drawn up and lying on their left side. In the An-
cient Empire the custom of leaving the corpse at full length began
to be followed, probably at first in the case of the kings. At the
same time embalming was attempted. The bodies were treated with
saline solutions and bitumen and rolled in linen bandages and wrap-
pings. The process of preparing the mummy was more elaborate at
later times. The brains were first removed through the nostrils by
means of an iron hook; the stomach was then opened with a flint knife
and the viscera removed (Herodotus ii. 86) and placed in four jars,
known as Canopi. These were usually closed with lids, bearing the
heads of the four sons of Osiris, to whose protection the intestines
were committed. The heart also was removed from the body, and
was replaced by a stone scarabaeus, laid upon the breast of the de-
ceased, beneath the wrappings. Herodotus states that at a later
period there were three methods of embalming, differing according
to the expense involved. So much care was given to the preserva-
tion of the corpses that to this day the features of many of the mum-
mies may be clearly made out.
List of the Chief Egyptian Deities and Sacred Animals.
Amon, Ammon, or Amun [Fig. 1), specially worshipped at Thebes,
was made a sun-god under the name Amon-Re and became the
national god under the New Empire. For his persecution by
Amenophis IV., see p. cxlvi. His sacred animal was the ram.
Ant^us or Antaios, the Greek name for a falcon-headed god, akin
to Horus and worshipped at Antseopolis (p. 236).
Andbis (Fig. 2), the special god of the 12th, 17th, and 18th nomes
of Upper Egypt, also a god of the dead, whose function was con-
nected with the interment. A later myth makes him a brother of
Osiris. The dog was sacred to him.
Anuket (Greek Anvkia), goddess of the district of the cataracts.
Apis, the sacred bull of Memphis. For his distinctive markings,
see p. cxli. The apis was buried in the Serapeum (p. 147).
Atum (Fig. 3), the local deity of On-Heliopolis, Pithom, etc., was
afterwards regarded as a sun-god (specifically the evening-sun).
His sacred animals were the lion and the serpent.
B.^STET, the goddess of Bubastis (p. 171), a goddess of joy. Sacred
animal, the cat.
cl VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
Bbs, a popular deity, represented as a dwarf, introduced I'rom the
land of Punt. He was the god of matrimony and also had in-
fluence over births.
BoTo, see Wto.
Eme-wet, a god of the dead, represented, like Anubis, with a dog's
head. His symbol was a post with a wine-skin hanging on it^t.
Emset, one of the four sons of Osiris and guardian-deities of the
dead, who protected them from hunger and thirst, and to whom
therefore the viscera of the deceased were dedicated. The other
three guardians were Hapi, Twe-metf, and Kebh-mewf.
Enhuret (Greek Onuris), the god of This and Sebennytos.
Epet, a popular goddess of childbirth. In Thebes, where she was
revered as the mother of Osiris, she was represented as a pregnant
hippopotamus. See also Toeris.
Eri-hems-nufee ('the good companion'; Greek Harensnuphis),
another name for Show, under which he was worshipped on the
island of Biggeh and at Phils.
E\vs-os, goddess of Heliopolis, the consort of Harakhte.
Hapi, one of the guardian-deities of the dead. See Emset.
Hakakhte (Fig. 4), a special form of Horus (p. oxliii). He was the
god of Heliopolis. The falcon was sacred to him.
Haebndotbs (Fig. 5 ; 'Egypt. Ear -net- yotf), 'Horus who protects
his father' (Osiris), a form of Horus.
Har-khentekhtai, god of Athribis (near Benha). Sacred animal,
the serpent.
Harmachis, a name given to the Sphinx at Gizeh.
Haepocrates, Horus the child, represented with a side-lock and a
finger on his lips. The Greeks regarded him as god of silence.
He was much revered, especially at a late date.
Hae-sem-tewe (Ha/rsomtus), 'Horus the uniter of the two lands', a
form of Horus.
Harsiesis, 'Horus, son of Isis', a form of Horus.
Hathoe (Fig. 6), a deity of the sky, and a goddess of joy and love,
identified by the Greeks with Aphrodite. She was the goddess
of Dendera (p. 245) and Aphroditespolis (p. 333) and was wor-
shipped also in Thebes as guardian of the necropolis (p. 302). The
cow was sacred to her and she was frequently represented with
cow's horns or a cow's head (Fig. 7).
Heeishep, the ram-headed god of Heracleopolis (p. 206).
HoEus received universal homage as the sun-god. He was the local
deity of Buto and the patron of the Pharaohs (p. cxlv) at Edfu,
where he is represented as a winged sun (Fig. 20). He is usually
described as the son of Osiris and Isis, sometimes as the son of
Re and brother of Seth. The falcon was sacred to him.
VI. EGYPTIAN KELIGION. cli
Imhoi'bp (Imulhes), a deified saint of Memphis, revered as a priest
and physician, was identified by the Greeks with Asklepios
(jEsculapius). He had a temple at Philae also.
Isis (Figs. 8 & 9), the wife of Osiris and mother of Horus (Har-
siesis), was a goddess of Philae and was highly revered at a late
period.
Ka, the guardian-spirit of men (p. cxlix).
Keb or Geb, the earth-god, husband of Nut (see p. cxlii).
IvEBH-sNEWF, ouc of the guardiau-deitics of the dead. See Emset.
Khepre, the scarabaeus (dung-beetle), regarded as a form of the
snn-god (p. clxxvii).
Khnum (Fig. 10) was the god of Elephantine and the Cataract dis-
tricts, and of Shes-hotep, Esneh, etc. His sacred animal was the
ram.
Khons, the moon-god of Thebes, was the son of Amon and Mut,
with whom he forms the Theban Triad. Sacred animal, the falcon.
Maat (Fig. 11), goddess of justice or truth. Her symbol is an
ostrich-feather.
MiN (Fig. 12), the guardian spirit of Akhmim and Koptos, was also
the god of travellers in the desert. Later he was revered as a
god of the harvest and was frequently amalgamated with Amon;
the Greeks identified him with Pan. He is ithyphallically re-r
presented. His sacred animal was a white bull.
Mnbvis, the sacred bull of Heliopolis (p. exit).
Mont (Montu), the god of Hermonthis and Thebes, was regarded
from an early period as the god of war. He was represented
with a falcon's head.
Mux, the wife or daughter of Amon of Thebes and mother of Khons.
Her sacred animal was the vulture.
Nbfertem, son of Ptah of Memphis.
Neith, goddess of Sais, Esneh (pp. 33, 342), etc.
NEKHBEYBT(Greek Smilhis), goddess of El-Kab (p. 333) and guardian-
deity of Upper Egypt. As she presided over childbirth the Greeks
identified her with Eileithyia. Sacred animal, the vulture.
Nephthts (Fig. 13), originally a goddess of the dead. Sister of Osiris.
Nut, a goddess of the sky and wife of Keb.
Onnophris, see Wen-nopre.
Osiris (Fig. 14), originally the god of Busiris, afterwards identified
with the death-god of Abydos, the 'Lord of the AVestern Folk',
and universally worshipped as god of the dead (p. cxlviii). His
tomb was at Abydos (p. 237). For his legend, see p. cxliii. His
symbol was a post ff (Tet).
Pekhet, the goddess of Speos Artemidos (p. 227), to whom the cat
was sacred.
Ptah (Fig. 15), the god of Memphis and patron deity of Egypt
(p. cxlv), was regarded as the guardian of artists.
olii VI. EGYPTIAN UELIGION.
Ptah-Tenen, a special form of Ptah.
Eb, the sun-god. He was identified at an early period ■with Har-
akhte of Heliopolis, and named Re-Harakhte. During the night
he traverses the underworld and is then named Yfu-Rl and
represented with a ram's head,
Satet (Greek Satis) , guardian-deity of the Cataract district, was
worshipped on the island of Seheil and at Elephantine.
Sbkhmet (Fig. 16), goddess of war. Sacred animal, the lioness.
Sele:et, a goddess to whom the scorpion was sacred.
Serapis (Sarapis), a foreign god introduced into Egypt under the
Ptolemies (p. 147), and more or less identified with the ancient
Egyptian Osiris-Apis (Osorapis), the deceased Apis bull.
Seshkt (Fig. 17), goddess of writing.
Seth (Setekh)^ god of Omhos (near Nakadeh), was the patron deity
of Upper Egypt in prehistoric times (p. cxliii), and was worship-
ped also at Tanis and Auaris. He was the brother of Osiris,
whom he is said to have slain (p. cxliii). Another myth makes
him brother and enemy of Horus. After the 22nd Dyn. he was
expelled from the Egyptian pantheon and was thenceforth re-
garded as god of the impure (Typhon). His sacred animal, with
a peculiar muzzle and grotesque ears and tail, is perhaps to be
identified with the Ethiopian ant-eater (Orycteropus).
Show, god of the air and god of Leontonpolis (Tell el-Yehudiyeh).
The Egyptians believed that he supported the sky. The lion
was sacred to him.
Sobek (Fig. 18; Greek Suchos), worshipped chiefly in the Faiyum,
at Ombos, etc. The crocodile was sacred to him.
SoKBR, a falcon-headed god of the dead worshipped in the neigh-
bourhood of Memphis.
Tefnut, the goddess of the dew, sister and consort of Show, along
with whom she was worshipped (in the form of a lioness).
Tetun, guardian-deity of Nubia.
Thotjt or Thoth (Fig. 19), a moon-deity and god of the sciences,
therefore identified by the Greeks with Hermes. He was the
city-god of Hermopolis (p. 209). The ibis and baboon were
sacred to him.
ToEEis, 'the great (^scil. Epet)', another name of Epet (see p. cl).
TwE-METF, one of the guardian-deities of the dead. SeeEmset.
Wen-nofee (Greek Onnophris), a surname of Osiris.
Wep-wawet, protector of Assiut, also worshipped as a god of the
dead. The wolf was sacred to him.
Webt-hekew, a lion-headed goddess, wife of Re-Harakhte.
Wto (Greek Buto), goddess of the town of Buto in the Delta ; also
a guardian-deity of Lower Egypt. The serpent, ichneumon, and
shrew-mouse were sacred to her. This goddess was represented
also with a lion's head.
VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
Bepresentations of the most important Deities.
oiiii
1. Amon-Ee.
2. Anubis.
3. Atom,
4. Harakbte.
oliv
VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
5. Harendotes.
6. Hathor.
7. Cow-headed
Hathor.
8. Isis.
9. Isis, suckling the
infant Horus.
10. Khnum.
yi.?EGYPTlAN RELIGION.
ClT
11. Maat, goildess of
truth.
12. Min; behind is the
curious shrine of
the god.
13. Xephthys.
14. Osiris; behind the god is the syinbul
of Eme-wet, god of the dend.
cWi
VI. EGYPTIAN RELIGION.
15. Ptab.
16. Sekhmet. 17. Seshet writing the
king's name on the sacred tree
of Heliopolis.
18. Sobek.
19. Thont.
cMi
VII. Historical Notice of Egyptian Art
By Profetsor O. Steindorff.
1. Architecture.
Of Egyptian architectural monuments dating from the pre-
historic period or from the earliest dynasties unfortunately little
has been preserved — very little compared with what remains of the
buildings of the period extending from the Ancient Empire to the
Grseco-Koman epoch. The remains that do exist are chiefly tombs,
of clay or of sun-dried bricks of Nile mud, materials which were
used also for houses and temples of the period. For the roof-sup-
ports, and frequently for the roofs also, round trunks of palms were
used. In many other cases the chambers were covered with barrel-
vaulting. — Stone began to be used for tombs and temples at tlic
beginning of the Ancient Empire, but brick never ceased to be
the characteristic building-material of Egypt. The characteristic
Egyptian architectural members, such as the concave cornice
(cavetto) and the round moulding (torus or roll), had their origin
in the primitive structures of wattle-and-daub, and the form of the
circular Column was borrowed from the wooden supports used in
brick buildings. The square Pier or Pillar, on the other hand, came
into existence with architecture in stone.
Piers are first met with in tombs of the Ancient Empire. Their
lateral surfaces are frequently occupied by reliefs or inscriptions
and their fronts by other ornamental designs. Thus tall papyrus-
plants and lilies occur on piers of the time of Thutmosis III. at
Kamakfp. 274), and a sistrum (a rattle used by women) with a head
of Hathor at Abu Simbel (p. 409). The four-sided pier was con-
verted into an octagonal or sixteen-sided pillar by bevelling off the
corners, part of the pier, however, being left square at the top so
as to blend with the roof; at the foot was a round, cushion-like
base. By grooving or fluting the flat surfaces of the pillar a play of
light and shade was obtained. Sixteen-sided fluted pillars, which
have received the name of Proto-Doric Columns (Fig. I), occur in
tombs of the Middle Empire (at Benihasan and As^uan) and in
temples of the time of Thutmosis III. (Karnak, p. 277 ; Deir el-
Bahri, p. 302). The name was suggested by certain points of resem-
blance to the Doric columns of the Greeks, the chief of which are
the marked fluting and the tapering ; but the Proto-Doric differs
from the Greek Doric in being destitute of the 'echinus', a member
resembling an overhanging wreath of leaves, forming the capital
of the true Doric coluum. The chief difference, however, is that
the shaft of the Egyptian column rests upon a base, while the
Doric column springs immediately from the ground. Another
difference is that some of the sides of the Proto-Doric column are
frequently unfluted and left flat for the reception of inscriptions.
clviii
Vn. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
Along with tlie pier and the allied Pioto-Doric column the round
Column began to he used in Egyptian stone architecture after the
heginning of the 5th Dynasty. Its simplest form was the Tree-
Trunk Column of two members, -which was an imitation of the an-
cient palm-tree supports (p. clvii) and is first found in the mortuary
temple of Sehuie at Abusir. This consists of a low circular b ase
and a cylindrical shaft, which was adorned in front with a band of
I. Tomb Chamber and Columns of Benihasan.
inscriptions. Usually, however, the column had three parts, i.e. it
was crowned by a capital, ending in a square slab known as the
abacus, upon which rest the beams of the arcliitrave, supporting
the slabs of the roof. The Egyptian love of plants is well known
from various sources, and consistently with this the favourite forms
for columns as early as the Ancient Empire were borrowed from
plant-life. Two plants especially were most frequently copied, viz.
a variety of lotus (Nymphsea lotus) and the papyrus (Cypeius
VIl. HISTORY OF EOyPTIAN ART.
papyrus). Sometimes the column represents a single plant-stem,
sometimes a cluster of stems held together by bands; while the
capital imitates in turn the closed bud or the open calyx (Fig. II).
Thus there arise four varieties of plant-columns: the simple plant-
column with bud-capitals and the same with calyx-capitals; and
the clustered plant-column with bud or calyx capitals.
Of the various Lotus Columns [which seem to have been freely
used if we may judge from the numerous pictures of them) com-
paratively few have been
preserved. Clustered col-
umns of this kind with "
bud-capitals occur during
the Ancient and Middle
Empires (in a tomb at
Benihasan), but appear to
have died out under the
New Empire. The above-
mentioned shaft at Beni-
hasan is formed of four
round stems, rising from
a round base, and fastened
together at the top by
bands (Fig. III). The capi-
tal is formed of closed
buds, the green sepals of
which extend quite to the
top of the white petals of
the corolla. Near the top
of the shaft, between the
bands which hold the
main stems together, are
inserted smaller stems.
Examples of clustered
lotus-columns with open (calyx) capitals (Fig. II) are frequently
seen in reliefs on tombs of the Ancient and Middle Empires; but
they occur most often in buildings of the later period.
The Papynts Columns are nim-h more numerous. They differ
widely from the lotus columns. The stems in the latter are circular
in section, while in the papyrus-columns they are triangular, and
moreover taper rapidly at the base, where thoy are encircled with
pointed leaves — characteristics that are wanting in the lotus-
columns. There is a difference also in the capitals, the sepals of
the lotus reaching to the upper edge of the flower (see above), while
the leaves surrounding the umbel of the papyrus are considerably
shorter. The simple papyrus-column with a bud-capital is seen only
in paintings and reliefs, whereas the clustered column is common
enough (I'Mg. IV a). The latter usually consists of eight stems held
cli
Vll. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
together by bands at the top, while between these stems smaller
clusters of three, fastened together by bands, were inserted. These
inserted stems, however, lost their
independent treatment at an early
period. — Towards the close of the
18th Dyn. the clustered papyrus-
column underwent an essential
change. In order to adapt the shaft
for the reception of inscriptions and
pictures, all its irregularities were
abandoned and it was made per-
fectly smooth. For the same reason
the capital also was rounded off and
transformed into a blunt cone, the
original clustering being recalled
by painting alone (Fig. IV b). • —
Papyrus-columns with calyx-capi-
tals (Fig. V a ; representing the
opened umbel of the flower), in
which it is difficult to distinguish
between simple and clustered col-
umns, occur in most temples of the
New Empire, where they generally
appear supporting the lofty roof of
the central passage in such hypo-
style halls as consist of nave and
aisles. They invariably consist of
a single rounded shaft, no longer articulated into separate stems
(and generally covered with inscriptions and reliefs).
IfP^^iHll
Calyx Capital of a
Papyrus Column.
Composite Plant
Capital.
V.
Amongst the other aud rarer varieties the Palm Column deserves
mention . Its shaft is round (without the tapering foot of the papyrus
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxi
column) and supports a capital formed of a bundle of palm-leaves,
bending sliglitly outwards, and held together by bands (Fig. Vc).
The earliest and finest palm-columns were found in the mortuary
temple of Sehure at Abustr. At a later period the base of the
column was often omitted. — The comparatively simple plant-
capitals of the earlier periods were elaborately developed during the
Ptolemaic epoch, until they almost assumed the form of bouquets
of flowers, resplendent with brilliant colours (Fig. Vb~).
Besides these plant-columns other varieties occur. The so-called
Hathor or Sistrum Columns have round shafts crowned on four sides
with the head of the goddess Hathor (with cow's ears), above which
was a temple-like addition. These are exclusively confined to tem-
ples of female deities and are most numerous in the Ptolemaic
period; they arc doubtless reproductions of the sistrum (p. clvii),
with its handle. Another curious column is the Tent-Pole Column,
an imitation of the primitive j] form of tent-poles. This occurs in
the festal temple of Thutmosis 111. at Karnak (p. 275), where the
capitals are altered to the form of inverted calices.
Comparatively few of the ancient Egyptian Secular Buildings,
even of the later historical periods, have been preserved. The
number of ruined towns is not, indeed, insignificant ; but the re-
mains of the earlier houses are almost invariably concealed by those
of later date and are thus very difficult to examine. The remains
of earlier houses have come down to us directly in only a few ex-
ceptional instances, as at Illahua (pp. 194, 196), Tell el-'Amarna
(see p. 212j, and Deir el-Ballas, and beside the valley temple of the
Mykerinos Pyramid (p. 133). These, in connection with represent-
ations preserved on the monuments and models of houses found in
tombs, afford us some knowledge of the structure and interior ar-
rangements of Egyptian Pkivate Houses, which in many respects
resembled the Arab liouses of modern Egypt (p. clxxxiii). The
house of the humble peasant or workman was as simple then as it
is to-day. An open court, in which the family spent the day (and
in summer the night also), was adjoined by a few dimly - lighted
sleeping-rooms and stables for the cattle, while a staircase led from
the court to the flat roof, upon which a few smaller apartments were
often found. The houses of the more prosperous Egyptians of the
Middle Empire also had a court as their central point, at the back
of which, on a terrace, was a colonnade or vestibule of light col-
umns, generally open towards the N. and affording protection from
the sun. Thence a door led to a wide hall, the roof of which rested
on columns, and beyond that was a deep hall, also with columns,
probably used as the eating room. Beyond that again were other
apartments (bedrooms) for the master of the house and his grown-
up sons. On one side of the four principal divisions of the house
(court, vestibule, broad hall, deep hall) were the women's apart-
clxii VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
raents, or liarem (hariin), the middle point of which was another
open court; and on the other side were the slaves' apartments, the
store-rooms, the kitchens, and the stables. This arrangement of
the Egyptian dwelling-house was probahly the same in essential
details at all periods, and even in the Royal Palaces (e.g. at Tell
el-'Amarna) the four principal divisions occur in the same order.
The houses of the 18th Dyn. which have recently been excavated
at Tell el- Amarna are built upon a slightly different plan from
that just described. — The walls of the houses and palaces were
built of unburnt bricks of Nile mud ; the roofs were made of wooden
beams, covered with straw or reeds and daubed within and without
with Nile mud ; the columns were either of stone or of wood, and in
palaces were inlaid with coloured stones or glass-paste. Colour was
extensively used also in the interiors; the walls were whitewashed
and adorned with bright-coloured rugs or with paintings, and even
the pavements were often covered with colouring matter.
Numerous Foktifibd Structokes have been preserved. Amongst
these may be mentioned the Nubian forts at Kuban (p. 397) and
to the S. of Wadi Haifa (p. 413), where a chain of fortifications
closed the roads beside the cataract, and the Egyptian forts at
El-Kab (p. 333) and near El-Aliaiweh (p. 2361, all of which pro-
bably date from the Middle Empire.
As taxes and salaries were paid in kind, large Magazines were
required for the reception of tribute, not only by the state but also
by temples. The remains of such storehouses have been found
beside the Ramesseum (p, 309) and elsewhere.
Probably in no other country have so many Temples within such
narrow limits survived from antiquity as in Egypt. Most of these,
it is true, date from the New Empire and the Ptolemaic epoch, so
that we have a clear conception of the temples of these periods only.
Few or no complete temples have survived from the Ancient or
Middle Empires or from the late-Egyptian period.
Of the Temples of the Ancient Empiee, apart from the mortu-
ary temples beside the pyramids (pp. 131, 134), only one example
of a particular kind has been preserved. This is the Sanctuary of
the Sun at Abu Gurab, erected by King Nuserre (p. 140). This
temple consisted of a large court bounded by covered passages and
containing only a few buildings; at the back of the court rose a
huge obelisk. The walls of the passages and of some of the rooms
were covered with reliefs representing festivities, hunting-scenes,
and country life.
The remains of the Temples of the Middle Empire are even
scantier than those of the Ancient Empire. Large sanctuaries,
sometimes even superior in size to those of later times, were built
during this period at Luxor, Kamak, Koptos , Abydos, Medtnet
el-FaiyUm, Heliopolis, Bubastis, and Tanis ,• but none has left any
considerable traces. All probably fell into decay during the troub-
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxiii
lous times of the Hyksos supremacy and were replaced under the
1 8th Dyn. by new buildings, in which the materials of the earlier
edifices were utilized as far as possible. In plan they seem to
liave corresponded exactly with the later sanctuaries, and probably
many temples of the later period were erected on the plans of the
earlier buildings. In decoration also they exactly resernbled the
later temples. The inner walls were adorned with reliefs showing
the king in communion with the gods ; the ceilings of their halls were
supported by columns of various patterns (comp. pp. clviii at seq.);
and in front of their entrances rose tall obelisks (p. 121) and colossal
statues of the Pharaohs.
However different from each other the Temples or the New
Empiee appear at first sight, there is but little difficulty in refer-
ring them all to two general fundamental forms. One of these, re-
calling, probably quite accidentally, the Greek Peripteros or temple
surrounded by a colonnade, was especially popular during the
18th Dyn. , the age of Thutmosis III. and his successors. The
rectangular cella (ox sanctuary), containing the sacred boat with
the image of the god and provided with doors at each end, rose
upon a basement of masonry, crowned with a concave cornice and
approached by a flight of steps. On all four sides it was surrounded
by a colonnade, the roof of which rested upon square pillars or
on Proto-Doric columns, connected by low screens. Occasionally
this main structure was adjoined at the back by several smaller
apartments, also used for religious rites. Among the peripteral
structures of this kind arc the small temples of Thutmosis III. at
l-Carnak and Medinet Habu (pp. 279, 328), the S. temple of Buhen
near Wadi Haifa (^p. 412), and a sanctuary of Amenophis III. upon
the island of Elephantine , which has now vanished. Curiously
enough this form of peripteros was revived in the Ptolemaic period,
though with various modifications, being used in the so-called Birth
Houses (Mammisi)^ which stood beside the principal temples (e.g. at
Philae; p. 367) and were dedicated to the worship of the maternal
deity (Isis or Hathor) and her child. The inner sanctuaries in these
birth-houses also were surrounded with colonnades, the roofs of
which, however, were borne by the curious sistrum-columns crown-
ed with heads of Hathor or with figures of Bes.
The second fundamental form of the Egyptian temple is most
simply and clearly illustrated in the small temples built by Ram-
ses III. at Karnak in honour of Khons and of Amon, with his two
companion-deities (pp. 262, 267 ; see special plan of the great temple
of Amon at ivarnak, p. 265). The approach to the temple is formed
by the Pylon, two large towers of masonry flanking the entrance-door.
These towers are shaped like very steep truncated pyramids; the
slightly inclining walls, framed with round mouldings, offer the
greatest available space for reliefs. The towers were imposing from
heir sheer size, and this impression was heightened (from the
1*
clxiv
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
Middle Empire onwards) by the obelisks and colossal statues placed
in front of them, and by the lofty flag-staffs which were placed in
shallow niches in the masonry and fastened by huge clamps (Fig.VI).
Beyond the pylon we enter a broad open Court, flanked on the right
and left by covered colonnades. In the centre stood the great altar
round which the people assembled on festivals. This court was
adjoined by the Temple proper, which stood on a terrace of moderate
height adorned with a concave cornice and reached from the cout,
VI. The Second Pylon at Karnak decorated for a festival (from an ancien
Egyptian representation).
by one or more flights of low steps. At the top of the steps we first
reach a Pronaos or Vestibule, borne by columns. The columns in
the front row are connected by stone screens, shutting off the temple
from the court. Behind this lies a Hypostyle Hall, occupying the
whole breadth of the building. In most of the larger temples (e.jr.
the Ramessenm and the great temple of Amon at Karnak) this hall
consisted of a tripartite nave and two or more aisles, the latter con-
siderably lower than the former. In these cases the roof above the
nave is usually supported by papyrus-columns with calyx-capitals,
that above the aisles by similar columns with bud- capitals. Tlie
wall-space left by the difference in the height of the nave and aisles
VII. HISTOKY OF EGYPTIAN ART. aUv
is often uaed (^e.g. at Karuak) for the insertion of windows with stone
tracery. Beyond the hypostyle hall lies the innermost Sanctuary, a
comparatively narrow and deep chamber. This contained the imago
of the god, usually in a sacred boat, which was borne by the priests
in processions. Only the king or his representative, the high-priest,
might enter this chamber and 'look upon the god'. When the
temple, as, e.g., the sanctuary of Ramses III. at Karuak (p. 267),
was dedicated to a triad of gods, the sanctuary of the chief god
(Amon") was flanked by the chapels of the other two [Mut and
Khonsj. Chambers of various sizes used for religious rites or for
the storage of temple property surrounded the sanctuary; staircases
led to the roof and to various rooms, which either served as dwellings
for the temple watchmen and servants or were used in the cele-
bration of particular ceremonies, etc.
This form of Egyptian temple, which recurs in most of the larger
sacred buildings of the New Empire and lingered until after the
beginning of the Ptolemaic period, closely corresponds with the
ground-plan of the early Egyptian house or palace previously de-
scribed. The open court of the house, accessible to every visitor, is
represented by the great temple-court ; the pronaos of the temple
corresponds to the vestibule, the colonnaded (hypostyle) hall to the
broad hall of the dwelling; and the deep hall in which the master
of the house spent his time finds its analogue in the sanctuary, the
dwelling-place of the god. And just as these apartments in the
dwelling-house were adjoined by chambers and rooms for various
purposes, so the sanctuary in the temple was adjoined by a series of
small apartments, store-rooms, etc. Thus the temple was literally
what the Egyptians called it, the House of the Qod.
In many temples the colonnaded hall is further separated from
tlie sanctuary by one or more Smaller Halls (with or without col-
umns) of narrower proportions and dimii\ishing in height. Fre-
quently also the sanctuary is followed by several other halls and
chambers; and not unfrequently the temple proper is preceded by
two colonnaded courts instead of by one. The particular purposes of
all these various rooms are in most cases hard to determine.
Though many temples, such as the temple at Luxor and the
great temple of Amon at Karnak, exhibit a much more com-
plicated form than that just described, the explanation is that they
were not built on one uniform plan but owe their construction to
various builders. In the descriptions of the particular temples con-
cerned this matter is treated with due attention to detail.
Occasionally the nature of the site compelled further deviations
from the above-described form. In Lower Nubia the sandstone cliffs
approach so close to the bank of the Nile that the temple had to be
partly or wholly constructed in the rock, the necessary rooms being
hewn out. At Gerf-Husein (p. 394) the court is built as usual,
while the colonnaded hall and the sanctuary are hewn out of the
clxvi Vll. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
rock. The larger temple of Abu Simbel (p. 404) is entirely a rock
building, the pylon and the colossi included. At Abydos the difficulty
of excavating the rock was avoided by placing the part of the temple
containing the slaughter-court and other offices at right angles to
the main edifice, so that the whole now presents the form of a "~|
(comp. the Plan, p. 239).
Although many small temple-buildings of the Libyan Epoch
and the Late Period are still in existence, almost nothing has
come down to our day of the large temples, with the exception of
the temple of Hibis, in the Oasis of Khargeh (p. 381), which was
erected in the time of the Persians. Nearly all the kings of that
period resided in the Delta (Bubastis, Sais), and therefore mark-
edly favoured the North in erecting their monuments. There the
sanctuaries were built of limestone, and in mediaeval and mod-
ern times the blocks have either found their way into lime-kilns,
or, since the Delta itself yields but scanty building-materials, have
boen utilized for new buildings, usually leaving only the more re-
fractory blocks of granite behind. It was not until the days of the
Ptolemies that attention was once more directed to the South. These
monarchs raised many large temples to the gods of the country,
usually on the site of earlier ruined buildings. All these temples
are built on one uniform plan, differing but slightly from the older
forms (comp. the Plan of the temple at Edfu, p. 344, with that of
the Ramesseum, p. 306). There is a difference in only one essential
point. The sanctuary for the boat is surrounded on three sides by
corridors, on which open smaller chambers. This innovation, which
is seen for the first time in the temple of Khons at Karnak (20th
Dyn.), provided the temple proper with a chapel closed all round.
The earlier temples were often altered to conform to this new plan,
and a separate boat-chamber was inserted among the older rooms
(e.g. in the temple at Luxor, and in the great temple at Karnak).
The side-rooms also are numerous at this period and among these
special mention must be made of a small Sacrificial Court situated
on the right side (see Plan of Edfu, p. 344) and an elegant Kiosque
adjoining it (ib.). Eooms of this kind occur, however, even in some
of the older temples.
From the earliest known period all flat surfaces on pylons, in-
terior walls, column-shafts, and ceilings were covered with repre-
sentations and inscriptions. The external walls, the pylons, and
the walls of the courts, i.e. those parts of the temple that were ex-
posed to the vulgar eye, commemorated above all the exploits of
the king, campaigns, great festivals, or other important events of
his reign ; the representations were intended to keep the power and
nobility of the Pharaoh constantly before his people. On the other
liand the representations in the interior of the temple were ex-
clusively devoted to the religious proceedings that took place there.
The king, who theoretically was the only mortal who might have
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxvii
intercourse with the gods, appears again and again, offering gifts
and homage to the deities and receiving from them earthly bless-
ings. In the late period and especially under the Ptolemies the
secular representations on the external walls and the walls of the
court gave place to religious scenes ; the battle-scenes and triumphs
of the ruler are superseded by sacrificial and other sacred scenes
depicted at tedious length. On the pylons, however, the primitive
typical figure of the Pharaoh smiting his enemies in presence of
the god still appears. — The temple, moreover, like his house and
his tomb, was in the eyes of the Egyptian a type in small of the
world. The roof corresponded to the sky, and was, therefore, appro-
priately adorned with stars upon a blue ground, while above the
middle passage hovered vultures, protecting the king as he passed
along below. Not unfrequently, and especially in the temples of
the Ptolemaic period, the ceiling is adorned -with astronomical re-
l)resentations — the gods and goddesses of the months and days,
the planets, various constellations, and the goddess of the sky
herself, on whose body rested the boat of the sun. Similarly the
pavement represented the earth. Here (i.e. on the bottom of the
walls) we see flowers blooming or long processions of the re-
presentatives of the nomes and other divisions of the country, and
of the river and canals, bringing their characteristic products as
offerings to the deities of the temple. Egypt was traditionally re-
garded as divided into two portions — a northern and a southern —
and similarly the entire world as represented in the temple was also
regarded as consisting of a N. half and a S. half. The represent-
atives of the N. appear on one side, those of the S. on the other ;
and even in the ceremonial religious scenes on the walls this
distinction may frequently be traced. The entire temple-preoincts
were enclosed by a massive brick wall, the portal of which (gener-
ally a pylon) was approached by a dromos or avenue of sphinxes or
of animals sacred to the god (e.g. in Thebes recumbent rams). With-
in this wall stood also the dwellings of the priests, besides store-
houses and stables, so that the temple proper, like an Arab mosque
of to-day, stood in the midst of a complexus of domestic buildings.
Owing to the great value of cultivable land in Egypt Tombs
were not placed in the lower portions of the Nile valley, but in the
more elevated desert-regions, which, moreover, being beyond the
reach of the inundation, were in any case better adapted for the
preservation of the dead. The Egyptian tomb always had a double
function to fulfil ; it not only served as a safe resting-place for the
dead, but it was also a place where the survivors could meet on
certain days and offer gifts to the deceased. Thus the tomb was in
two parts, the actual Tomb in the ground, and the Place of Worship
above ground. — The most ancient graves were simple pits, in
which the corpses were laid; these were frequently walled with
bricks and covered over with beams. Larger pits were divided
clxviii VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
into chambers l)y partition walls. Over the grave heaps of stoaes
were piled or a mound was formed of bricks made of Nile mud, on
the E. side of which a stele was set up; in front of this a small
court was made , which served as a place of worship , where the
gifts for the deceased were deposited. From this early form of
Egyptian tomb were developed the Mastabas, as the tombs of the
aristocrats of the Ancient Empire are called ; these were erections
of limestone blocks or of bricks, with a rectangular ground-plan and
sloping walls. A perpendicular shaft (10-100 ft. in depth) or a
staircase led down to the sepulchral chamber, containing the
corpse, which frequently lay in a coffin of wood or stone. A door-
shaped stone or stele, resembling a false door, set in a shallow
recess in the court on the E. side of the upper structure (the
court or place of worship, seldom discernible now), marked the
spot that was regarded as the entrance to the grave and to the
realm of the dead. In front of this the surviving relatives laid the
food, drink, and other offerings to the dead upon the flat Table of
Offerings, or recited their prayers for the welfare of the departed.
After the close of the 3rd Dyn. a chapel was frequently built in
front of the recess or a regular chamber of worship formed in the
masonry of the mastaba, and the stele was then removed to its W.
side. In the time of the 5th Dyn. the inner chamber was enlarged
and a number of additional rooms added. The extent to which these
'everlasting abodes' might be enlarged and developed is best illus-
trated by the mastaba of Mereruka at Sakkara (p. 159), which, like
any ordinary well-to-do house, contains a suite of rooms for the
master, another (the harem) for his wife, a third, behind, for the
son, besides various store-rooms. The inner walls were embellished
with inscriptions and representations (usually in relief), depicting
the deceased at his favourite occupations, hunting and fishing, the
various activities on his estates, his workmen at work, etc. The
object of these representations was to enable the deceased to con-
tinue his occupations in the land beyond the grave (comp. pp. 149
et seq. and p. cxlvii). The deceased and the members of his family
were represented by statues, which were placed in one or more
special rooms (the so-called Serddbs, I.e. cellars), generally built
in the thickness of the walls but sometimes separate structures.
These received light and air by means of small apertures only.
Most of the fine statues of the Ancient Empire now in the Museum
at Cairo (pp. 82 et seq.) were found in such serdabs.
Just as the streets of a town -were arranged round the palace of
the king, so the rows of mastabas were grouped around the tomb
of the king. Originally the royal tombs were large brick mastabas
like the others (comp. above), in or beneath which were chambers
for the body of the king, for those of his suite, and for the various
funeral gifts. Subsequently the royal mastabas were enlarged by
heightening them and surrounding them with several outer casings.
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VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN AftT. clxU
each ol which was lower than the one inside it. A Step Mastaba
(step-pyramid) was thus developed, such as may still he seen in
the step-pyramid at Sakkara and the pyramid at Meidiim (comp.
pp. 146, 205). The normal form
of smooth pyramid was evolved
from the step-pyramid at the
beginning of the 4th Dyn., and
thenceforward it remained the
usual form for royal tomhs until
the I8th Dynasty. In the rock
heneath the massive stone erec-
tion of the pyramid a sloping "
shaft (PI. a) led to a subterran-
ean passage, closed by means
of a stone trap-door, and to the
chamber (PI. 6) in which the
sarcophagus stood. The great ,.„ „, ^. , ,. o» n • ■
• J X z-,^ 1^ ,v \ VIT. Elevahon of the Step Pviamul
pyramids at Gizeh, the step- of SakkSra.
pyramid at Sakkara, and various
others contain several passages and se veral chambers, but the exist-
ence of these is due to modifications of the original plan or to
later alterations (pp. 125, 126). The inner rooms of the pyramids,
and particularly the sarcophagus-chambers, which were made in-
accessible after the interment, were almost entirely destitute ol'
ornament in the ancient period. It was not until the end of the
5th Dyn. that it began to be customary to adorn the walls with re-
ligious texts (the so-called 'Pyramid Texts'). The recess or the
room in which sacrifices were offered to the dead in the mastabas
was represented in the case of the pyramids by a detached temple
on the E. side. These temples were divided into two portions, one
public, the other private. The centre of the public portion was oc-
cupied by a large open court, surrounded with arcades, off which
opened five chambers for the statues of the deceased monarch; the
principal apartment in the private temple was the sanctuary con-
taining the stele. On the edge of the cultivated land, moreover,
stood a temple, forming a monumental gateway, rising on a terrace
and connected by a long covered approach with the mortuary temple,
which lay on the desert-plateau. The walls of the pyramid-temples
of the 4th Dyn. were left bare, but those of the temple at Abusir
are partly covered with reliefs, which to some extent display the
same types as are seen in the temples of the gods (the king as a
griffin triumphing over foreign foos, booty captured from the enemy,
military campaigns, etc.). The best preserved mortuary temples of
the Ancient Empire are the temple beside the pyramid of MeidUm
(p. 205; apparently unfinished), the temp'es of Khephren and My-
kerinos beside the pyramids of Glzeh (pp. 132, 133), and those of
Sehure, Nefer-er-ke-re, and Nuserre at Abii^7r (p. 141). Less is known
clxi VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
of the plan of the mortuary temples of the Middle Empire beside
the pyramids of Lisht, Dahshur, Illahun, and Hawara. Most of these
are in a very ruinous condition, like the temple of Amenemhet III.,
the so-called Labyrinth (p. 195), while others have not been fully
excavated. The only one in tolerable preservation is the mortuary
temple of Mentuhotep III. and Mentuhotep IV. at Deir el- Bahri
(p. 304), but that is built on a peculiar plan with terraces and can-
not be considered typical. For the way in which the pyramids were
built, comp. p. 124. At a later period the kings of Napata and Meroe
(pp. 419, 422) re- adopted the pyramidal form for the royal tombs.
The custom of placing their tombs at the foot of a royal pyramid
was gradually abandoned by the nobles at the close of the Ancient
Empire ; they preferred to be buried near their own homes. Like
the Pharaohs they built for themselves small Bkick Pyramids upon
square or rectangular bases. The tomb-chamber was formed in the
tliickness of the wall or dug out of the ground beneath ; and a tomb-
stone was erected on the outside, before which the survivors recited
their prayers or presented their offerings. But the high and steep
declivity of the desert-plateau did not always offer space enough
for such free-standing tombs; and at various points graves were
hewn in the rock, a practice of which there were isolated examples
even under the Ancient Empire (p. 139). In accordance with the
fundamental conception of the tomb as the Home of the Dead, each
of these Rock Tombs must contain the four principal divisions of
the ancient Egyptian dwelling-house. Thus a Forecourt, usually
surrounded with a brick wall, was provided in the open air in front
of the tomb, generally ending in a small Colonnade with two pillars
or columns hewn in the solid rock. Beyond this was a large Chamber
with columns or pillars, followed by a small Chamber or Recess,
which contained the statue of the deceased, frequently accompanied
by that of his wife, hewn out of the rock, and thus corresponded
to the serdab (p. clxviii) of the old mastabas.
This dwelling-house arrangement is most distinctly seen in the
rock-tombs of Benihasan and Assuau [comp. pp. 227, 358). The
inner walls are covered with inscriptions and representations, which,
though more varied in subject than those of the earlier tombs, agree
with them in being intended to provide for the enjoyment of the
deceased. The unembellished sarcophagus-chamber was reached
from the first hall by a perpendicular shaft hewn in the rock.
The Tombs of the New Empiee coincide in their general fea-
tures with those of the Middle Empire. At this date also both free-
standing tombs (mastabas and pyramidal tombs) and rock-hewn
tombs occur, according to the nature of the site at different places.
The former variety of tomb is now, however, represented by very
few examples. In the rock-tombs a narrow corridor is frequently
found between the first hall and the small inner chamber with the
statues; for their general arrangement and decoration, see the re-
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxxi
marks on p. 284. After the beginning of tlie 18tb Dyn. the Pharaohs
also ceased to build pyramids as their last resting-places, and pre-
pared their tombs in the slopes of a sequestered mountain-valley
on the W. bank of the Nile near Thebes. These Royal Tombs of
THE New Empire comprised long corridors and halls, the walls of
which were occupied by religious inscriptions and scenes (comp.
p. 284). Like the passages within the pyramids, these were exclu-
sively destined for the reception of the sarcophagus, while the
rock itself represented the pyramid built over the grave. Since
there was no room among the mountains for mortuary temples, the
latter were built (usually on a large scale) on the plain, where their
ruins remain to this day.
The grandees of the late period followed the example of their
predecessors under the Middle Empire by imitating the tombs of
the Pharaohs in preparing their own private graves. This was the
case in Thebes at least. At Asasif (p. 305) near Thebes we find in
their tombs a complicated series of corridors and halls, the walls of
which are decorated with nothing but religious texts and representa-
tions. Unfortunately none of the royal tombs of the last native
dynasty have as yet been discovered ; these must have lain near the
large capitals in the Delta. 1''.ven of the larger private tombs of this
epoch few have been found, with the exception of those at Thebes
and a few others at Gizeh and Sakkara.
The Tombs of the Humulbr Classes must, of course, have
largely outnumbered those of the grandees; but beyond the pits
which contained the bodies, and some gravestones, they have left
no traces. From pictures we know that under the New Empire they
were frequently in the form of small brick pyramids; but nearly
all have fallen victims to time. The poorer classes were frequently
buried in Common Tombs, constructed by speculators in ruined tem-
ples or in long corridors underground. In these the corpses were
laid in plain coffins (sometimes merely on planks or mats made of
the fibres of palm-leaves), accompanied by simple gifts for their use
in the future world. But these common graves are now almost all
covered by drift sand, and all trace of them is lost.
2. Sculpture and Fainting.
No fair estimate of the achievements of Egyptian sculpture
or of its masters can be obtained from a study of the ordinary co-
lossal statues, sphinxes, and temple-reliefs; for these, though they
are now the most conspicuous examples of Egyptian sculpture,
were, with few exceptions, exclusively decorative and were exe-
cuted by artisans rather than by artists. For such an estimate an
acquaintance must be obtained with works produced by genuine
artists, such as the portrait statues and reliefs now preserved Iti the
Museum of Cairo, and the reliefs on the walls of mastabas, of rock
clxxii
VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN AKT.
tombs, and of a few special temples (notably the temples of Deir
el-Bahri and Luxor and the temple of Sethos at Abydos). Genuine
art-works, it is true, are but thinly sown in Egypt, and, owing to
the enormous mass of sculpture that has been preserved, it is per-
haps more difficult in this than in any other branch of art for any
one but an expert to discriminate the good and artistically worthy
from the inferior and mechanical ; and the difficulty is increased
by the fact that even the best artists were unable to emancipate
themselves from certain traditional peculiarities of representation.
Our unbounded admiration is commanded by the wonderful skill
with which both artisan and artist could work the hardest stone
with comparatively primitive tools. This extraordinary technical
skill is apparent in all the productions of Egyptian sculpture. But
the qualities that differentiate the genuine works of art from the
others are an admirable fidelity in portraiture and a charming sym-
pathy with nature, which is specially apparent in the representa-
tion of animals.
Sculplors at work (from an ancient Egyptian representation).
Statues. We possess specimens of the art of even the Eahliest
Pbkiod of Egyptian history in the shape of primitive figures of men
and animals, mostly carved in bone or ivory, some of which (especially
among the animal figures) display a high degree of finish. The
statues dating from the end of the 2nd Dyn. and the beginning of
the Ancient Empire already possess all the merits of Egyptian
'sculpture, though they still show traces of archaic stiffness. They
are mostly seated figures of moderate size, with a constrained ar-
rangement of the limbs; the right hand usually rests on the breast,
the left hand upon the thigh. When an inscription occurs it is usu-
ally given in relief. But the facial features even in these primitive
works are handled with a portrait-like firmness.
In all Egyptian statues the head and trunk are carved with a
strict regard to symmetry, the only freedom ever taken being in the
VII. BISTORT OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxxiii
arrangement of the arms and legs. If a plane be conceived as de-
scending vertically from the top of the skull through the face, breast,
and hack, it will he found to divide the trunk into two symmetrical
halves and to form a right angle with the line of the ground; the
trunk bends neither to the right nor to the left. This principle of full-
face symmetry, or 'law of frontality', as Julius Lange named it, is
common to the art of all primitive races, and even the Greeks did
not finally emancipate themselves from it until their plastic art had
attained its zenith. — Personages who were meant to he invested
with a certain dignity are shown standing or sitting in a quiet
posture, or even seated on the ground with their legs folded
beneath them. They are often combined in family groups. The
attendants, on the other hand, whose statues were placed in tlie
grave of the deceased, are represented as indulging freely, within
certain limits, in their usual occupations. — The art of sculpture
showed rapid signs of improvement at the beginning of the4thDyn.,
and reached one of its highest points in this dynasty and the fol-
lowing. Among the works of this period preserved in the Museum
of Cairo, most of which are of limestone or wood, the best are in-
dicated at pp. 82-84. In all these statues the chief stress is laid
upon a faithful reproduction of the face; the rest of the body,
especially the hands and feet, are conventionally treated. The
artist frequently imparted a curiously striking effect to his statue
by iTiserting eyes of black and white quartz, with a wooden or copper
stud to represent the pupil.
After a period of decay the art of sculpture attained, in tlie
Middle Empire, what was probably its highest perfection in the
wliole course of Egyptian history. Among its masterpieces were
the fine statue of Amenemhet III. at Cairo (No. 284, p. 84), and
the statues and sphinxes which were formerly attributed to the
liyksos, but which probably also represent Amenemhet III. or other
kings of the close of the i'2th Dyn. (p. 85). These are marked by an
emphatic rendering of the spiritual expression, and are permeated
by an appealing seriousness. The period, however, furnishes us
also with creations of much less intrinsic value, such as the con-
ventional statues from Lisht (No. 301, p. 84), with their vacant faces.
The comparatively large number of Statues of the New Em-
pire which have come down to us, most of which, it is true, were
intended merely for decorative purposes, present a striking contrast
to those of the Middle Empire. In place of the melancholy earnest-
ness shown by the latter we find a certain placid and attractive
cheerfulness. I^xamples of incomparable verisimilitude, worthy to
rank with the best productions of the earlier period, are not want-
ing. Among these may be mentioned the statue of Thutmosis III.
(No. 400, p. 85), the heads of Ameiiophis IV. (Nos. 3610-3612,
p. 93), the busts of a married ro\iple (No. 745, p. 87), the heads
of King Haremheb, of the god Khons, and of the goddess Mut in
clxxiv VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
the Museum at Cairo (No. 451, p. 85; No. 491, p. 86; No. 456, p. 85),
besides a few other specimens in European museums. In many
cases the artists have abandoned an attempt to produce a faithful
portrait in favour of ideal beauty, devoting much of their energy
to the representation of the coiffure, the ornaments, and the flowing
garments then fashionable. Many new types were invented in this
period, such as the figure of a man crouching on the ground and
enveloped in a voluminous mantle.
After the 20th Dyn. art steadily declined until the time of the
Ethiopian monarchs, when it again revived under the inspiration of
the models of the Ancient and Middle Empires. At last began a
later period of bloom, which has justly been styled the period of the
Egyptian Renaissance (p. cv). The prevalent tendency at this
epoch was towards a careful study of portraiture, and it produced
some extraordinarily good work, especially in the 26th Dyn., in the
portraits of bald-headed priests, in which the characteristic points
(such as the shape of the skull) are indicated in a masterly manner,
while the less significant details are ignored. The best specimens
of this great style of art are now in Berlin , and with the exception
of the fine head of the aged Mentemhet (No. 1084, p. 89) and a few
smaller statues there are unfortunately no examples of it in the
Cairo Museum, where the traveller will find only insipid, sim-
pering productions of the Egyptian Renaissance. — Though these
realistic works show no trace of Greek influence, the development
of sculpture from the time of the Ptolemies on shows the influence
of Greek art in an ever -increasing degree. Side by side with
purely Greek works (chiefly in Alexandria) and purely Egyptian
works, the sculptors of which clung anxiously and mechanically to
the ancient style, we meet with specimens of a peculiar hybrid
Grseco- Egyptian style, in which the figures are Greek in attitude
and Egyptian in drapery, coifl'ure, and adornment, or vice versa.
However valuable these may be for an appreciation of Egyptian
civilization at a late period , they certainly carry no satisfaction to
the eye intent upon artistic efl'ects.
Beliefs and Paintings. Egyptian reliefs are either Bas-Rellefs,
the earliest and at all periods the commonest form, or Incised Beliefs
('reliefs en creux'), in which the design is sunk below the surface.
This form, which is peculiar to Egypt, first appears under the 4th
Dyn. and always serves as a cheap substitute for bas-reliefs. The
sculptors of the New Empire, however, have often succeeded in
producing very attractive effects by the skilful use of its peculi-
arities. Egyptian relief attained its highest point under the 5th
Dyn. (p. xcix). The high level of technical and artistic skill at
that period is best illustrated in the mastabas of Ti and Ptahhotep
at Sakkara (pp. 149, 163), and in the reliefs from the mortuary
temples of the kings of the 5th Dyn. (p. 82). Under the 6th Dyn.
and during the Middle Empire the execution of the reliefs had
vn. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART. clxxv
distinctly begun to decline, and it is not till we reach the works
of the 18th Dyn. [e.g. in the temples of Luxor and Deir el-Bahri,
and in some of the graves of Sheikh 'Abd el-Kurna) that we find
some approach to the old excellence. From this period on the
decline is steady, though a few graceful and attractive reliefs were
produced in the time of Sethos I. (e.y. in Abydos, p. 239). The
too lavish demands made upon artistic resource for the decoration
of the numerous new temples led, under Ramses II., to a rough and
ready style of work, the defects of which were multiplied under
Merenptah. — In the SaKte Period the works of the Ancient Empire
were again selected as models for sculptures in this branch of the
plastic art, though no attempt was made to rival the ancient masters
Affith actual copies. But all the same the reliefs of this period ofler a
pleasing contrast to those of the reign of Ramses II., in their deli-
cate and exact execution, and in a certain elegance and a charming
softness of form. — Art under the Ptolemies was at first content to
follow in the track of the Saite artists; but it gradually grew more
and more crude, and the temple-walls were overladen with rows of
tasteless reliefs, contrasting with the good taste shown by the ear-
lier artists in interspersing decorated with undecorated surfaces.
The figures of men and gods in these became heavy and shapeless,
so that their features and limbs have a swollen appearance. Unfor-
tunately the reliefs of this late period of Egyptian art are the most
numerous and most conspicuous in Upper Egypt, and thus it is that
the traveller is inclined to assign to Egyptian sculpture a much
lower rank than even its mediocre productions deserve. — All re-
liefs were painted, but many of them have now lost every trace of
colour. "When Painting was used instead of sculpture (as,c.jf., in the
tombs of the 18th Dyn. at Sheikh 'Abd el-Kuriia, p. 309), it was so
either in order to save expense or because the available stone was
not suitable for carvings. That the same rules of drawing applied
to paintings as applied to reliefs need scarcely be stated.
It is difficult for the ordinary student to obtain a proper ap-
preciation of Egyptian reliefs and paintings, owing to the peculiar
style of Drawing. This arose in the prehistoric age, but was re-
modelled at a very early period of Egyptian history, and it is easy
to recognize how in the course of time the means for representing
the phenomenal world were multiplied. Many forms of the earlier
period, however, were religiously adhered to. The characteristic
Egyptian drawing represents the human figure as a composition
of the various parts of the body drawn from different points of
view. The head is seen from the side, while the eyes are drawn from
the front. The shoulders are shown facing us, without foreshort-
ening, and the rest of the body and the feet and legs in profile.
The inconsistencies of this method were felt by the later Egyptian
artists, and the difficulty was got over by treating the whole as in
three-quarter profile. Alongside of this normal type there gradually
clxxvi VII. HISTORY OF EGYPTIAN ART.
developed tlie use of a correct profile representation. This is some-
times met as early as the 5th Dyn. but was not handled witli per-
fect certainty until the second half of the 18th Dynasty. At this
time the Egyptian art of drawing had attained its zenith. Nothing
of equal excellence is found of a later date. The traveller will find
the best opportunity to study the works of this period at Sheikh
^ibd el-Kurna and Tell el-'Amarna (pp. 309, 212). — The ani-
mals, upon the realistic reproduction of which the artists bestow-
ed great care and devotion, are shown in an almost correct pro-
file position. — Mention may be made also of another rule of
Egyptian composition which originated in the effort to represent
each object in the clearest and most complete manner. Thus per-
.sons, animals, etc., supposed to be behind others are depicted in
rows above them, and objects intended to be lying upon tables are
depicted standing above the tables. At the same time the principle
that objects lying behind other objects are concealed was recognized
even at an early period. The principal personages in a representation
are indicated by the primitive device of delineating them on a much
larger scale than the other figures.
The art of drawing in Egypt was hampered from time immemor-
ial by a number of designs that were copied again and again, though
some alterations were gradually introduced. In the course of cen-
turies the ancient treasury of types was increased by the addition
of new and valuable motives. Thus, e.g., the Ancient Empire
furnishes numerous scenes from the life of the people on the large
landed estates, which are often marked by a charming naivete and
a delicate observation of nature. In the 5th Dyn. pictures of mili-
tary import join the circle of representations used in the mortuary
temples, while under the Middle Empire we find scenes of the life
at the courts of the provincial princes, and various new burial scenes.
The supply of material, however, dates its greatest increase from
the period of the 18th Dyn., when Egypt became a world power
through its political relations with Asia Minor, and when the horizon
of the artists had consequently become much more extensive. Under
Amenophis IV. even the intimate life of the royal family and the
court, which no one had previously ventured to represent, was, for a
time, drawn into the field of art. Under the 19th Dyn. and under
Ramses III. new tasks were imposed upon the artists, who were called
upon to represent the warlike deeds of the king, and to execute huge
pictures of battles. The beginning of this new tendency may indeed
be recognized in the 18th Dyn., as in the reliefs on the chariot of
Thutmosis IV. in the Museum at Cairo (No. 2080, p. 90). With the
end of the New Empire the supply of types again shrinks and be-
comes inferior even to that of the Ancient Empire. In scenes of the
kind here referred to the artist found a free field for his powers of
invention. When, however, he had to reproduce ceremonial scenes,
he had naturally to adhere more or less rigidly to the ancient models.
Vll. HISTORY OF KGYPTIAN ART. clxxvii
Among the subjects thus stereotyped were scenes relating to the
intercourse of the king with the gods (in prayer or sacrifice), the
celebration of certain festivals, and the slaughtering of animals for
sacrifice.
In the practice of the Artistic Handicrafts, such as cabinet-
making, glass-blowing, and the production of coloured fayence,
Egypt was perfect. Tlie goldsmiths and workers in metal in parti-
cular had attained the most complete mastery of their craft; they
thoroughly understood all its ancillary arts, such as enamelling and
damascene work, and they were thus able to produce, especially with
the aid of coloured gems and fayence inlays, works of a degree of
finish and brilliancy such as a highly civilized nation alone could
execute and appreciate.
The traveller should note the signification of some of the
Symuols and Signs most commonly used in sculpture and as
architectural ornamentations. Thus, f is the crook or shepherd's
staff, the emblem of the prince or monarch; m\ a fan, tlie
symbol of kingly power; -r" the sign of life; ]T (p. 1569) the
sign of steadfastness; \J the red crown of Lower Egypt;
Q the white crown of Upper Egypt ; Yj the united crown of
tipper Egypt and Lower Egypt; i/y the blue crown of the king;
Ik """
the Uraius or royal serpent, represented on diadems
and suns by }Qj. Its function was to avert hostile influences,
just as the Urpeus serpent had once destroyed with its poison the
enemies of the sun-god. The winged sun-disk, ;^SS7, the emblem
of Horns of Edfu, was frequently placed over the doors of temples
to avert everything evil. The sceptre, ) iveser, denoted wealth;
n maat, an ostrich -feather., truth and justice; Vhj khepre, the
scarabaeus or beetle, is a form of the sun -god and was frequently
worn as an amulet. The symbol V (originally meaning a lung) sig-
nifies union. It is frequently entwined wi h lilies and papyrus-
plants, when it is symbolical of the union of Upper and Lower
Egypt and is equivalent to the national arms of Egypt. The lock "5
on the temple of a figure marks it as a child, at a later period
generally the offspring of the gods or of the kings.
Baedeker's Egypt. 7th Edit. m
clxxviii
VIII. Buildings of the Mohammedans.
By Franz- Pasha,
The Moliammedan style of architecture iu the ■valley of the Nile
was founded upon the forms of art which the victorious Arabs
found in vogue among the Byzantines and the Copts, and upon those
of Persian art of the era of the Sassanides. The huildiiigs in Egypt
exhibit a considerable variety coupled with a certain finish of style,
but none of them dates back to the first period of the Arabic dominion ;
for the professors of the new religion were for centuries content
merely to adapt the religious edifices of the conquered countries as
mosques. This was a process of little difficulty, for the ceremonial
requirements of the new religion were comparatively simple, and
it took place in all parts of the great empire of the Caliphs. From
casual references by the Arabian chroniclers we learn that the
earliest prayer-houses built by the Arabs were merely enclosed courts,
along the walls of which ran covered passages, supported by palm
trunks, in order to shelter the worshippers from sun and rain.
Even the large mosque built by the Khalita 'Abdallah in Omdurman
(p. 430) is of this type. Costly mosques, with marble arcades, be-
gan to appear very gradually, under the influence of the ancient
edifices and of the increasing wealth flowing from the military
successes of the Mohammedans. Columns from Greek and Roman
temples and even, in some cases, from early-Egyptian buildings,
were freely employed in these later mosques. This employment of
ancient columns in the mosques, frequently without any regard to
harmony of style or size, brings it about that uniformity in the
architecture of the arcades is observed only when the abacus is
reached. No distinct Arabian order of columns was thus ever de-
veloped in Egypt. A few Arabian forms of capital (one a curious
form of calyx-capital, another including a wreath of stalactites as
the transition between the shaft and the abacus) are the only evi-
dence of any effort towards originality iu this direction.
The most prominent characteristic peculiarities of Arabian archi-
tecture are the following : —
1. The use of the pointed arch (Mosque of Ibn TuliVn, p. 71) and
the Byzantine stilted round arch, as well as of the round and pointed
horseshoe arch, the scalloped arch, the clover-leaf arch, and the
'keel' arch. These (except the scalloped and clover -leaf arches)
were accompanied by corresponding forms of domes.
2. The development of the form of tower known as the minaret.
3. The refining of various forms of pinnacles that occur also in
early Egypt, Assyria, Phcenicia, and Persia.
4. The employment in facades of two colours, by alternate
courses of red and white limestone or (in later examples) of black
and white marble.
5. The invention of the elegant wooden balconies and the
VIIT. BUILDINGS OF THK MOHAMMEDANS, clxxix
system of tlosiag window-openings with niaslirabiyelis (p. olxxxv)
or with kamariyehs (p. olxxxvi).
6. The development of surface ornaments into geometrical
patterns of every kind (entrelacs) or conventionalized foliage (arab-
esques) ; the use of Arabic ornamental inscriptions on friezes and
medallions; and the treatment of wall-surfaces and ceilings in rich
polychrome hues, whether by painting, incrustation, or mosaic.
The chief monuments of Arabian architecture in Egypt are the
religious editices (mosques), fountains, and tombs. The period
within which these were built extends from the accession of the
Tulunide sultans to the conquest of Egypt by the Turks. The earlier
mosques have left hardly a trace behind, and our knowledge of them
depends upon the obviously exaggerated and often confused de-
scriptions of the Arabic writers. The later mosques are of little
artistic value. Some of them display a union of Turkish-Arabic
architectural forms with Egyptian-Arabic ornamentation.
The only existing building dating from the Tulunide Pbhioh
(868-905) is the Mosque of Ibn Tulun (p. 71). The oldest plaster
decorations in this mosque display a system of ornamentation, the
various elements in which remain, as in the antique, separate and
distinct, though some of them are so unusual in form «s to defy
classitication under any known style.
In the Fatimitb Pekiod (969-1171) that followed, the character-
istic intertwined geometrical patterns, ^vith spaces filled up by Arabic
ornamentation showing a tendency to the Byzantine style, begin to
appear. Bricks ceased to be the exclusive building-material and
hewn stone was used for portions of the edifices; the mosque of El-
Akinar (p. 76) showed the first example of a stone facade with
stalactites. The portals began to be placed in recesses, and small
cupolas made their appearance in the interior of the mosques. The
pointed arch of the mosque of Ibn Tulun gave place to the Persian
'keel' arch. Towards the close of this period forms began to be
adopted, especially in military architecture, that seem to have been
copied from the buildings of the Crusaders in Syria and Palestine.
The leading characteristic of the Aiyubide Peeiod (1171-1'250)
was the introduction of the ground-plan of the Persian medreseh,
which superseded the previously used ground-plan of the courts
until the first Mameluke period. Large domes began to be built
over the mausolea, which as founders' tombs were placed near the
sanctuaries of the mosques.
To the First Bahrite Mameluke Dynasty (1250- 1382) we
owe a number of huge editices, with ground-plans in both the above-
mentioned styles and exhibiting, especially in the facades, the in-
fluence of the architecture of the Crusaders. Most of these struc-
tures date from the reigns of Beybars and Kalaun, the latter of whom
raised the first minaret of stone. Under En-Nasir endeavours began
to be made to design facades independent of foreign influence.
clxxx VIII. BUILDINGS OF THE MOHAMMEDANS.
Under tlie Second Cikcassian Mameluke Dynasty (iSS2-ibiT)
the mosque-facade attained its zenith, and from this period date the
most elegant achievements of Arabic architectnre in Egypt. The
facades assumed a more homogeneous character; the minarets, of
enhanced elegance ever since the days of Kalaim, reached their
highest development; the domes, now also built of stone (see below),
were richly adorned with sculpture; and the walls, ceilings, pave-
ments, and even domestic furniture were sumptuously embellished
with mosaics, panels, carvings, and stalactites. The first dome luiilt
of stone was that of the mosque of Barkuk (p. 112).
The use of written characters has played a prominent part in
the decoration of Arabic buildings at all times, and the art did not
deteriorate in the latest period. Under the Tiilunides the closely
written Cufic character was employed, while under the !''atinutes,
and still more under the Aiyubides, the letters became taller and
more slender. The letters themselves and the spaces between them
were embellished with ar;ibesque ornamentation. Under the Aiyu-
bides the cursive charai-tcr known as Naskhi was used also; and the
friezes of intertwined letters dating from the period of the Mame-
lukes frequently rise to the dignity of works of art.
We may now proceed to an examination of the special kinds of
buildings, beginning with the Religious Edifices.
Mosques are of two kinds , the Gdmi', lit. an assembly for
prayer, and Mesgid, the place where the knee is bent for prayer.
The oldest mosques are very simple in plan (comp. the plan of the
mosque of Ibn Tiilun, p. 72). Around a quadrilateral court (SahnJ,
lorresponding to the atrium of a Byzantine basilica, lie four flat-
roofed colonnades ('^'■""''nv', used for prayers. Tlie Chief L'lwan or
Sanctuary, placed on the side next Mecca, has usually four oi live
aisles, the others never more than two. The Cruciform Mosque,
a new form invented in Persia, was introduced into Egypt about the
end of the 12th <eiit. by the Aiyubide Saladin. This was developed
from the previous simple form by the construction of additional
chambers at the four corners of the liwans, in such a way that the
liwans, now covered with massive waggon-vaults, formed the four
arms of a cross. Comp. the plan of the Sultan Hasan mosque (p. 67).
These liwans were used as school-rooms, whence arose the name
Medreseh, or 'school-mosque'. — Towards the close of the Mameluke
supremacy still another form arose, used, however, only for small
mosques. The side-liwans were shortened and the central court so
contracted that it could be roofed over and lighted from the top.
The four arms of the cross were covered with fiat wooden roofs, like
the colonnades in the original form of mosque, while the waggon-
vaulting was represented merely by a transverse rib on the side next
the court (comp. the plan of the mosque of Kait Bey, p. 114).
With the conquest of Egypt by the Turks under Selim I. (1517),
the Turkish-Byzantine style of architecture also made its appearance
Vin. r.Dir.DINGS of THK MOITAMMEPANS. tlxxxi
ill that country. The four liwans were superseded by a single sanc-
tuary, consisting of a main building covered with domes and usually
preceded by a second court (comp. the plan on p. 69).
The smaller prayer-rooms, frequently added to private houses
and not unlike the Christian chapels, are known as Zawiyeh.
The ExTERioE of the earliest mosques was absolutely plain. The
court was enclosed by a simple battleniented wall and was entered
liy an unadorned doorway. It was not until the Egyptians beheld
the buildings of the Crusaders in Syria and Palestine that they began
to elaborate the facades of their mosques. The hitherto smooth
walls were now interrupted by panels or fields, receding about 8 or
10 inches, but again brought forward to the level of the facade by
smooth slanting surfaces immediately below the unobtrusive bat-
tlemented main cornice. In these panels were placed the windows
(rectangular or arched), frequently arranged in pairs with a smaller
circular or star-shaped window above usually closed with kamariyeh
(p. clxxxvi). The main portal was a deep rectangular recess, with a
stone bench on either side, and terminating at the top in a half-
dome, embellished with stalactites. The doorway at the inner end
of the recess was surmounted by an architrave-arch and a relieving
arch. The door itself, often richly panelled, is usually adorned on
one side with embossed or chased bronze decorations. The threshold
generally consisted of a block of granite taken from an Egyptian
monument. The low railing here (or on the steps below) marks the
boundary to which the visitor may penetrate without removing his
shoes or sandals.
"NVe now turn to inspect the Internal Equipment of the mosque.
The centre of the Court was originally occupied by a fountain, be-
neath a canopy supported upon columns. This was intended for
ornament only, for the prescribed ablutions were performed at a
special basin (Meida) in an adjoining court. Under Turkish rule
tlie fountain was frequently replaced by an apparatus provided
with taps and known as the Hane/^i/e/*.
The 5anctMarj/ contains the Kihla or Mihrdb, the prayer-niclie
turned towards Mecca. Here we further observe : (1) the Minbar, or
pulpit, to the right of the Kibla, usually embellished with orna-
mental panels and incrustation; (2) the Kursi, the seat of the
Imam, together with a desk forjthe Koran; (3) the Dikkeh. a podium
borne by columns, and surrounded by a low railing, from which the
Muballighin (assistants of the celebrant) repeat the words of the.
Koran and the ritualistic gestures for the benefit of the more dis-
tant worshippers; (4) the lamps and lanterns ( T(;nnt/r, large chan-
delier; Toreiya, lit. 'seven stars', small chandelier ; FdnHs, lamp,
h'andtl , small oil-lamp) which hang by wires from the iron braces
and ceilings of the arcades as in all the liwans.
The sanctuary is frequently adjoined by the Turba or Mortuary
f^hapel of the founder. This is usually a square chamber, contain-
c]\\\u VIII. Bnil-IMNGS OF THE MOHAMMEDANS.
iiig a catafalque above tlic vaulted tombs in wMch the deceased
are placed with due atteirtiou to the sepcaration of the sexes. The
chapel is covered by a dome, the transition to which from the
square ground-plan is effected by means of a delicately articulated
intermediate construction, tapering gradually to an octagon. In
the examples dating from the Fatimite period, the pendentives
corresponding to the four bevelled angles of the intermediate struc-
ture retain the large spherical niches borrowed from Roman and
}*.yzantine models. These were replaced, under the Aiyubides, by
several rows of prism-shaped niches, and finally, under the Mame-
lukes, by more or less complicated arrangements of stalactite-pen-
dentives. These last are formed by a system of gradually projecting
courses of stone, embellished by dwarf domes and niches exhibiting
a very great variety of profile-outline.
The oldest mosques seem to have had no Minarets (Mddna).
The earlier examples of these towers were square throughout, taper-
ing upwards, and were covered by a simple conical roof. The later
examples are square at the base but assume a cylindrical or poly-
gonal form in the upper stories, and are embellished with galleries
supported by stalactite-cornices and with balconies; the top story is
formed of columns or pilasters bearing a roof consisting of a dome-
shaped protuberance. The minarets contain winding staircases, two
being sometimes arranged round the same newel for the convenience
of the blind men who are preferred as Muezzins (^Mu'eddin, p. Ixxxvii).
The wooden rods and hooks on the galleries and top stories are used
for hanging up the lamps during the fasting month of Ramadan.
Since the end of the 14th cent., following the example set by
the mosque of the Emir Gai el-Yusefl at Cairo (1366), every mosque
has possessed a SebU, or public fountain , except in cases when a
separate building is erected for this. The sebils are rooms with
bronze railings at which passers-by may obtain water. The upper
story of the sebil is a kind of loggia, supported by columns and cov-
ered with a tent -roof, frequently in elegant timber - architecture.
This is the Kuttdb, or elementary school. The detached columns that
often embellish the exterior of these buildings differentiate them
from all the other parts of the mosque-facade, in which columns
appear only built into the angles or immured in the masonry.
Tombs. The tombs of sultans and emirs and of their families
are invariably built in connection with mosques (p. clxxxi). On the
other hand the Sheikh Tombs or tombs of saints (p. xc), which are
found in all parts of the country, are independent structures, usually
built on the spot on which the revered deceased ended his days.
These closely resemble the mortuary chapels of the mosques and are,
like them, covered with domes. The ordinary tombs of the Moslems
are generally situated on high ground, beyond the influence of the
moisture of the river, and preferably in the desert. The subterranean
vaulted chambers are generally large enough for four or more bodies,
VIII. IllM 1,1)1 N(iS OK THK MOflAMMKDANS. dxxxiii
and are destitute of decoration. The corpse, wrapped in white cotton
cloth, is placed upon a bed of sand, with the face turned towards
Mecca, When both sexes are interred in the same vault a partition-
wall is erected to separate them. Above the vault stands a cenotaph
[Tarkibeh when of stone or brick, Tdbfit when of wood) resting on a
pedestal, with a small pillar or column at each end. On the column
at the head of the grave is frequently represented a turban or
tarbiish, indicating the rank and sex of the deceased. The inscrip-
tions give the name and the date of death, with texts from the
Koran. Over tlie cenotaphs of persons of distinction are often cano-
pies, resting on four columns. Wealthy families surround the tombs
with extensive buildings (Hush), including rooms for mourners,
sebil, stables, custodian's residence, etc. The tombs of the Caliphs
and Mamelukes at Cairo (p. Ill) include many such erections, which
lend the cemeteries the appearance of small half-deserted towns.
Among Secular Buildings the Fortifications of tlie citadel of
Cairo (p. 68), dating from the time of Saladin, recall the mediaeval
castles of Europe. Some of the numerous gates in the walls of Cairo
date from the Fatimite period ; they were probably built after Roman
models and are distinguished for the skill with which they are con-
structed, especially for accuracy in the jointing of the stones.
Of the ancient Palaces nothijig but ruins now remaiiis. The
lower stories, built of massive blocks, have barrel-vaults and pointed
arches of hewn stone, the upper stories have similar vaults in
lighter masonry. In one case, viz. the Dar Beshtak Palace at Cairo
(p. 76), we observe remains of balconies and of a projecting, slightly
curved cornice supported by wooden consoles; and traces of richly
painted and gilded coffered ceilings are likewise met with. From an
examination of the scanty remains and with the help of the Arabic
writers, whose descriptions, however, are seldom free from exagger-
ations, we may conclude that the palaces resembled in general the
houses of the richer private citizens (many of which have been
preserved), exceeding them only in size and splendour.
Dvrelling Houses (comp. the plans at pp. clxxxiv, clxxxv) rarely
have more than two stories; on the groundfloor is the Saldmlik, the
men's apartments, and on the first floor the Hartm or Harem, the
women's apartments and family rooms. The following rules are gen-
erally observed in the construction of a dwelling-house : — (1) The
principal rooms look into the court or garden. (2) The windows look-
ing to the street are as few as possible and placed very high, while
those of the upper floors are closed with gratings. (3) The passage
( Dirkeh; PI. I, 3) leading from the street to the court is built in the
form of an angle, to prevent people from seeing into the court. (4) The
door to the harem (PI. II, 4) is placed in a separate court or, falling
that, in a retired part of the court of the salamlik. (5) Tha recep-
tion-rooms nf the master of the house, the servants' quarters, kitchen,
mill, and stables are arranged round the court of the salamlik.
clxxxiv VIII. BUILDINGS OF THE MOHAMMEDANS.
Tlie principal rooms, whicU are usually the only rooms with
any decoration, are the Mandara (PI. I, 7), the reception-room for
male visitors, with its Khazneh or cabinet; the Takhtabosh, raised one
or two steps above the level of the court; and the Mak'ad(Fl. II, 1),
placed in a kind of entresol. The two last are built in the style of
open loggias. To these may be added the Fasklyeh, a summer-court
paved with marble and containing a fountain. All these belong to
Plan I.
Ground Floor.
.^^■^i^f
--" , 11- [ i, T^
:,;>._ _' x:,ic?ft;>i^
1. Entrance of the House. 2. Seat fmastaba) for the doorkeeper (bauwab).
3. Corridor (dirkeh). 4. Court (hosh). d. A kind of bower in which visit-
ors are received in summer. 6. Fountain. 7. Mandara. 8. Servants' rooms.
9. Donkey-stable. 10. Harness-room. 11. Room for fodder. 12. Door lead-
ing to the women's apartments (bab el-harim). 13. Staircase leading
to the takhtabosh. 14. Principal saloon (ka'a). 15. Cabinet (khazneh).
16. Small court. 1/. Kitchen. 18. Bakehouse. 19. Privy.
the salamlik. On the upper floor is the Kd'a, the chief room in the
harem, resembling the mandara. In some exceptional cases the ka'a
is on the groiindfloor (comp. PI. I, 14).
The ordinary streets of oriental towns are very narrow, so
tliat no very satisfactory view is to be had of the facades and
grated balconies of the houses. The groundfloor is built of solid
ma.«onry and its rooms are frequently vaulted. The upper stories
overhang and are supported, together with their balconies or oriel
windows, by stone consoles of peculiar construction. An agreeable
and effective contrast to the broad, flat surfaces of the hoxise-front is
VIIJ. UDILDJNGS OF THE MOHAMMEDANS, clxxxv
offered by the elegantly shaped oriel-windows and by the Mashrabiijehs,
or wooden balcony-gratings, the carving of which resembles inter-
laced strings of beads. The deep door-recesses (like those of the
mosques )also serve to break the level uniformity of the fa5ades. The
massivewooden doors are strengthened with iron bands or (less fre-
quently) studded with nails in intricate interlaced patterns.
The entrance- passage (Dirkeh) admits to the Hosh or court
(PI. I, 4), corresponding to the atrium of Roman houses. Off
I'lan U.
Kir3t Floor.
TjJgST/.-— -.sg:-'.
1. Open hall (takhtabosh) or mak'ad. 2. Cabinet. 3. Door of the harem .
4. Rooms of the harem with mashrabiyehs. 5. Magazine. 6. Open courts.
7. Guest-chambers with khazneh and privy. S. Balcony with mashrabiyehs.
this open the rooms of the salamlik: maudara and takhtabosh or
mak'ad. At the back is the Bah el-Harim (Fl. 12), or door to the
staircase to the .upper floor, before which hangs a brightly coloured
curtain. The staircase is usually narrow and without ornament.
At the top is the vestibule of the Ka'a (p. clxxxiv), the drawing-
room of the harem. The ka'a is usually a long and narrow room with
a lofty ceiling, and, strictly speaking, consists of three connected
portions, ditferentiated in shape and height of ceiling. The square
central portion, known as the Durkd'a, lies one step lower than the
Liwdns on each side. These liwans arc not always of the same
width; the broader one is regarded as the place of honour by the
ceremonious Orientals. The ceiling of the diirka'a, always loftier
clxxxvi Vra. BUILDINGS OF THE MOHAMMMDANS.
than those of theliwaus, is provided with a wooden cupola or lantern,
with coloured-glass windows ofthe kind known as Kamariyehs. These
^amariyehs are plaster -slabs, ahout I1/4 inch in thickness, per-
forated, while still soft, with patterns representing vases of flowers,
houses, geometrical figures, writing-characters, etc., the openings
being afterwards filled in with coloured glass. Owing to the above-
mentioned difference in the height of the ceilings, two of the walls
of the durka'a rest upon supports which are based upon massive
brackets reaching far down on the main side-walls. This arrange-
ment results in a curious kind of flat arch, against which some of
the beams of the liwan-ceiling lean. The durka'a is paved with
coloured marbles and frequently has a fountain in the centre. The
liwans are paved with ordinary stone slabs, concealed by rugs or
carpets. On one wall of the durka'a there is always a Suffa, a shelf
on which are placed the cups, etc. used in entertaining guests.
The walls of the liwans are panelled to the height of 6-10 ft., and
against them are placed divans, above which is a broad cornice-shelf,
on which are arranged porcelain, chased metal-work, and similar
ornaments. Instead of panelling, the walls oi' the durka'a have marble
mosaics. The upper part of the walls is usually covered with smooth
plaster or, in exceptional cases, with plaques ol coloured fayence.
The expanse of white wall is usually broken by a grated recess in-
tended for female singers and accessible from without. At the very
top of the wall is a broad concave frieze, embellished with inscrip-
tions or stalactites, and forming the transition to the usually elab-
orate ceiling- decorations. Light and air are admitted to the][room
from one ofthe ends, where mashrabiyehs are inserted in the lower
part of the wall and kamariyehs in the upper part.
The Public Baths, usually of quite unpretending exterior, are
frequently very large erections in which marble is not spared; in
their heating arrangements they are modelled on ancient Roman
vapour-baths (comp. p. xxvii).
The Okellas (p. 50) were important edifices when the caravan
trade, especially the caravan-trade with the Red Sea, flourished.
Their often extensive facades are of a peculiar type. The portals
resemble those of the mosques, and the doors :ind shutters of the
outer shops are sometimes carved. Tlie central open court accom-
modated the caravan, the goods brought by which \yere deposited in
vaulted chambers on the groundfloor, while the rooms in the upper
stories, opening off galleries, were used as lodgings by the merchants.
The centre of the court seems in each case to have been occupied
by a simple prayer-room (mosalla).
When we come to analyse the impressions produced by a study
of Arabic buildings in Egypt, we find that our admiration of the
harmonious and tasteful ornamentation, unsurpassed by any school
of architecture, is counterbalanced by a certain feeling of aesthetic
dissatisfaction. The main reason why Arabian art failed to reach a higli
Vlll. BUILDINGS OF THE MOHAMMEDANS, clxxxvii
level in technical ability as well as in urnameutation must be looked
for in the early collapse of the great empire of the Caliphs, in the
uncertain political circumstances of the period that followed, in
climatic and geological conditions, in the inflnence of superstition,
and in the characteristic oriental tendency to adhere with obstinate
fidelity to ancient forms and to leave unaltered anything once accom-
plished. However mmh admiration the arabesque may excite, how-
ever great an influence it may e\ert on industrial art, we still miss
in it the reproduction of living beings, the contemplation of which
invites, as it were, an intelligent and active sympathy.
In the period of the Tulunides, when Persian influence made
itself felt even in the religious conceptions of Egypt, portraits were
painted and coloured wooden statues erected in the palaces. But no
long period elapse<l before tlie prohibition of the Sunna (p. Ixxxv)
against the representation of any living being again came into force.
Ileprpsentations of this kind arc therefore very rare, and are now to
be found preserved only in the low reliefs carved by Persian sculptors
of the Shiite sect. Statues and paintings have disappeared without
leaving a trace. Painting and sculpture in modern Egyptian art
have been reserved exclusively for the decoration of wall surfaces
IX. Works on Egypt.
HisTor.t AND Geogeaph? of Anciknt Egipt.
Breatted, Jamet H., History of Egypt; 2nd edit., New Yurk, 1909.
— , Short History of the Ancient Egyptians: New York, 1908.
— , Ancient Records of Egypt (a collection of translations of Egyptian
iiistorical in-seriptions); 5 vols., Chicago, 1906-7.
Jifugsch , H., Kgypt under the Pharaohs, transl. by P. Smith, 1874;
condensed and revised edit, by M. Brodrick, London, 1S91.
Budge, E. A. W.. History nf Egvpt from the end of the Neolithic Period
tr. Ihe death of Cleopatra VII., B.C. 30; S vols., London, 1902.
Hall, H. R. , The Ancient History of the Near East from the Earliest
Period to the Persian Invasion of Greece: London, 1913; 15s.
King (L. W.) and Hall (H. R.), History of Egypt, Chaldea, Syria, Bab-
ylonia, and Assyria in the Light of Becent Discovery; London, 1907.
Mmpeyo, Sir G., Histoire aucienne des peoples de TOrient classique;
6th edit., Paris, 1904; 90 fr.
— . The Dawn of Civilization (Egypt and Chaldsea), 5th edit., 1910; The
Struggle of the Nations (Esypf, Syria, and Assyria), 2nd edit., 1910;
The Passing of the Empires (850 B.C.-330 B.C.), 1900; all transl. by
31. L. McClnre and published in London.
Meyer, Ed., Geschichte des alien /Egyptens, Part I; Berlin, 1887.
— , Geschichte des Altertums, Vol. I; 3rd edit., Stuttgart, 1913.
Newberry (Perep E.) and Oarttang (John), A Short Hi^torv of Ancient
Egypt; 3rd edit., London, 1912; Ss. 6rf.
Petrie. H'. M- Flinders (editor), Illu.strated History of Egypt: Vols. Mil.
From the Earliest Times to the end of the XXXth Dynasty, by the
Editor (1897 et seq); Vol. IV. Under the Ptolemaic Dynasty, by Pro/.
./. /'. Maliaff'j (1899); Vol. V. Under the Roman Rule, by / 0. Milne
(1898); V.^1. VI. In the Middle Ages, by S. Lane-Poole (1901).
Ratolimoii, G.. History of Ancient Egypt; London. 2 vols., 1881.
Sharpe, S., History of Egypt; new edit., London, 1877 (most useful for
the Ptolemaic, Koman, and By/.antine periods).
clxxxviii IX. WORKS ON EGYPT.
Smith, G. Elliot, The Ancient Egyptians and their Induence. upon the
Civilization of Europe; London & New York, 1911-, 2s. 6(Z.
i^teindorff.,G., Die Bliitezeit des Pharaiinenreichs ; Bielefeld, lUtX); 4 marks.
Egypt Exploration Fund, An Atlas of Ancient Egypt; London, 1894; 'As. (id.
Egypt Exploration Fund Memoirs, since 1883.
Classical scholars should provide themselves with the 2nd book of
Herodotus (vvliich may be suitably supplemented by the commentary by
W. W. How and /. Wells, published at Oxford in 1<J12), the 17th book of
Strabo, and the 1st book of Diodorus Siculns.
Mediaeval and Modern History of Egtpt.
Butler, A. J., The Arab Conquest of Egypt; Oxford, 1892.
Cameron, D. A., Egypt in the 19th Century; London, 1898.
Lane-Poole, S., Vol. V'l. of the Illustrated History of Egypt, see p. clxxxvii.
— , The Story of Cairo, in the Medipeval Town Series: 2nd edit., Lon-
don, 1906; is.
McCoan, J. C, Egypt under Ismail; London, 1899.
Muir, SirWm.. The Mameluke or Slave Dynasty of Egypt (1260-1017 A.D.);
London, 1896.
Civilization op Ancient Egypt.
Breasted, J. H., Development of Religion and Thought in Ancient Egypt;
New York, 1912 ; $ IV2.
Budge, E. A.W., The Mummy; chapters on Egyptian funeral archaeology;
Cambridge, 1893.
— , The Gods of the E'jyptians; 2 vols., London, 1904.
Erman, A., Life in Ancient Egypt, transl. by H. M. Tirard; London, 1894.
— , A Handbook of Egyptian Religion, transl. by Miss A. S. Grifflth;
London, 1907.
Maspero, Sir G., Life in Ancient Egypt and Assyria, transl. by Alice Mor-
ton; London, 1892.
Moret, A., Kings and Gods of Egypt, transl. by Mme. Moret; London, 1912
Is. 6d.
Petrie, W. M. Flinders, The Religion of Ancient Egypt; London, 1906.
Sayce, A- H., The Religion of Ancient Egypt; 2nd edit., Edinburgh,
1913; 4s.
Scott - Moncrieff, P. D., Paganism and Christianity in Egypt; Cambridge,
1913; 6s.
Steindorff, G., The Religion of the Ancient Egyptians ; New York and
London, 1905.
Wiedemann, A., Religion of the Ancient Egyptians ; London, 1897.
Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, The Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyp-
tians, new edit, by S. Birch, 3 vols., London, 1878.
Language and Literature of the Ancient Egyptians.
Budge, E. A. W., First Steps in Egyptian; London, 1895. — Egyptian
Reading Book for beginners; London, 1896. — Easy Lessons in Egyp-
tian Hieroglyphics; 3rd edit., London, 1910.
Erman, A.^ Egyptian Grammar; London and Berlin, 1902.
Maspero, Sir G., Les contes populaires de I'Egvpte ancienne; 4th edit.
Paris, 1911 ; 7 fr. 50 c.
Murray, M. A., Elementary Coiitic (Sahidic) Grammar; London, 1911.
Petrie, W. M. Flinders, Egyptian Tales, illus. by Tristram Ellis; 2 vols.,
London, 1895 (ancient tales of Egypt, edited from original sources).
Steindorff, G., Koptische Grammatik;2nd edit., Berlin, 1904; 14 marks 80 pf.
Language of the Modern Egyptians.
Dirr's Colloquial Egyptian Arabic Grammar, transl. by W. H. Lyall;
London, 1904; 4s.
Socin, A., Arabic Grammar, trans!, by Prof. A. R. S. Kennedy; 2nd edit.,
Berlin, 1895; 8 marks.
IX. WORKS ON EGYPT. clxxxix
Spiro-Beij, 5., A New Practical Grainuuir of tbe Moileni Araliic of Egypt :
London, 1912; S$. &d.
— , Arabic-English Vocabulary; Lundoii, 1S95.
— , English-Arabic V(icabul:iry; London, 1897.
Thimtn, C. A., Egyptian Self- Taught (Arabic); 3rd edit., London, 1907;
2s. &d.
VolUrs, K., The Modern Egyptian Dialect of Arabic, tran.sl. by F. C. Bur-
kitt; Canibrid.^e, iS95.
Willmore, J. S., The Spoken Arabic of Egypt; 2nd edit.. London, 1905.
— , Manual of S|>oken Egyptian Arabic; London, 19U8 (smaller, practical
summary of the above).
Modern Egyi't and JIodern Egyptians.
Alexander, ./., The Truth about Egypt; London, 1911 (deals with the
years 1906-10).
Colvin, Sir Auckland, The Making of Modern Egypt; London, 1906, 18«. ;
cheap edit., 1909, is.
Cromer, J^arl of. Modern Egypt ; 2 vols., London, 1908, 24^. ; one-vol. edit.,
1911, 7s. lid.
Cunningham, A., To-day in Egypt: its Administration, People, and Poli-
tics; London, 1912; I2s. &d. '
Dicey, Edw., The Egypt of the Future; London, 1907; 3*. 6d.
Edwards, Amelia B., Pharaohs. Fellahs, and Explorers; London. 1891.
Guerville, A. B. Be, New Egypt (with 180 illustrations); London, 1905, 16j!. ;
cheap edit., 1910, 10*.
Kelly, R. Talbot, Egypt painted and described; London, 1902; 20*.
Lane, E. W., An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Modern
Egyptians; London, 1836; several new editions.
— , Cairo fifty years ago; edited by Stanley Lane-Poole; London, 1896.
Lane-Poole, S., Social Life in Kgypt; London. 1884.
— , Egypt; London, 1881.
Loli, Pierre, Egvpt, transl. by W. P. Baines; London, 1909; 15«.
Milner, Sir A., England in Kgypt; 11th edit., London, 190i.
Pen.field, F. C, Present Day Egypt; new edit., London, 1903.
Boyle, Chat.. The Egyptian Campaigns, 1882-85; new edit., rcvi,<;ed to
1899. London, 1900.
Spitta-Bey, Contes arabes niodernes; Leyden, 1883.
Timdale, If'., An Artist in Egypt; London, 1912; 20s.
Warner, Chas. Dudley, Wy Winter on the Nile; London, 1881.
White. A. Silva, The Expansion of Egypt; London, 1899.
Scientific and Medical Works.
B Ian cken horn, M., Geologic >Egyptens ; Berlin, 1901; 10 marks.
Brehm, Reiseskizzen aus Nord-t)st-Afrika; 2nd edit.. Jena, 1862.
Canney, Leigh, The Meteorology of Egypt and its influence on di.sease
London, 1897.
Engel-Bey, Das Winterklima .lEgyptens; Berlin, 1903; 2V2 marks.
Ilrirtmann, Naturgeschichtlich-medicinische Skizze der Nil-Lander; 2 vols.,
Berlin. 1865-IS6.
Lyons, II. G., The Physiogi-aphv of the River Nile and its Basin; Cairo,
l!t06; 40 pias.
Muschler, H., A Manuiil Flora of Egypt; 2 vols., Berlin, 1912; 40 marks.
Shelley, (apt. O. E., The Birds of Egypt; London, 1872
Whymper, Chas., Egyi>tian Birds; London, 1909; 20s.
Willcocks, Sir Wm., The Nile in 1904; London, 1904.
IlisTOBT OF Egyptian Art.
Butler, A. ./., Ancient Coptic Churcbe.<! of Egypt; Oxford, 1884.
Capart, Jean, Primitive Art in Egypt, transl. by Miss A, S. Griffith;
Philadelphia, 1906.
Clarke, S., Christian Antiquities in the Nile Valley; Oxford, 1912; 38*.
xi; IX. WORKS ON KGYPT.
Franz-Patha, J., Die Bankunst des Islam (in Durm's Handbach der Archi-
tektur); Leipzig;, 1896 (3rd edit., by J. von Strzygowski, in preparation).
Maxpero, Sir O., Art in Egypt (JFanuals of National Arts) ; London, 1912 ; 6i.
— , Egyptian Art; London. 1913; 2ls.
— , Manual of Egyptian ArchiPology , transl. bv Amelia B. Edwards ;
5tli edit., London, 1902.
— , New Light on Ancient Egypt; London, 1908, 12s. &d.-. cheap edit.,
1910, 6s.
Mileham, O. S., Churches in Lower Nubia; London, 1910.
Perrot & C/iipiez, History of Art in Ancient Egypt, transl. by W. Arm-
strong; London, 1833.
Petri'-, W. M. Flinders, Ten Years' Digging in Egypt ; 2nd edit., London, 1893.
— , Egyptian Decorative Art; London, 1895.
— , Arts and Crafts in Ancient Egypt; 2nd edit., Ediuburgh, 1909; ijs.
— , Methods and Aims in Archfeology; London, 19(J4.
f^aladin & Migeon, Manuel d'Art Musulman ; 2 vols., Paris, 1907; 30 fr.
Books of Travel.
Champollion, Lettres e'crites d'Egypte et de Nnbie en 1828 et 1829; Paris,
1833; new edit., 1868.
Curtis. George Wm., Nile Notes of a Howadji, or The American in Egypt;
London, 1851.
Edwards, Amelia £., A Thousand Miles up the Nile ; London, ISTT.
Gordon, Lady DiijT, Letters from Egypt; London, 1865-67; new edit., 1901.
Qrogan (E. S.) and Sliaiy (A. H.), From the Cape to Cairo; London, 1901.
Lepsius, C. R., Lettei-s from Egypt, Ethiopia, etc. ; London, 1853.
Stuart. H. Villters, Egypt after the War; London, 1883.
— , Nile Gleanings; London, 1879.
Weigall, A. E. P., A Guide to the Antiquities of Upper Egypt ; London,
1910; 7s. 6rf.
Works or Fiction.
About, E., Le Fellah; Paris, 1869.
Arabian Nights, by E. W. Lane; London, 1841. The learned editor is
of opinion that these popular tales were written in 1474-1525, being
based mainly on earlier traditions, that they were probably compiled
by an Egyptian, and that they afford an admirable picture of Arabian,
and particularly of Egyptian, life at that period.
Ebers, O., Series of novels on Egyptian subjects (Engl, transl.).
Kinysley, C, Hypatia; London, 1863; various new editions.
Miller, Elizabeth, The Yoke ; New York, 1904.
Moore, T., The Epicurean; London, 1864.
Twain, Mark, The New Pilgrim's Progress; various editions.
Antiquities (Forged), see p. 252; Dam of Assuan, p. 372; Cairo, p. 46;
Cairo Museum, p. 80; Eastern Desert, p. 312; Faiyiim, p. 191; Goshen,
p. 180; Helwan, p. 168; Islamic Law and the Koran, pp. Ixxxviii, Ixxxix;
Oa-ii^ of"Kurkur, p. 362; Meroe, p. 422; Western Oases, pp. 379, 331, 382;
City of St. Menas, p. 28; Sakkara, p. 142; Egyptian Songs, p. xxvii; Sudan,
p. 418.
Uaps.
The best special map of Egypt is the topographical map issued by
the Survey Department (p. 80) on a scale of 1:50,000 (in four colours; 5 pias.
per sheet), with names in English and Arabic. It comprises the entire
cultivated area of the country. The excellent maps by Prof. Schweinfurth
are mentioned on pp. 168, 263, 372. — For the Sudan the best maps are
those issued by the Sudan Survey Department (p 429) in sheets at 10 pias.
each (1 : 250,000) and the map of Africa fl : 1,000,000; 25 pias. per sheet)
published by the British War Office.
1. Approaches to Egypt.
The time-tables and liandhooks of the various steamship companies
(see below) give full information both as to the direct sea-routes from
Knijland and as to the steamers from Mediterranean ports (comp. also
/Saedeker^s Med terrnnean). Overland routes from England to the Mediter-
ranean, see p. 3. The prineipal steam'^hip companies do nnt issue return-
tickets to Ezypt. hut a reduction of 20-33V3 per cent is allowed on the
return -journey if made within 6 or 12 months. Heavy baggage should in
all cases, if possible, be sent round by steamer. — Travellers from America
may sail direct from New York, Boston, Philade'phia, or Montreal to Mar-
seilles, Naples, Genoa, or Trieste and proceed thence by one of the steamers
mentioned at pp. 3-G. — For occasional steamers and pleasure-cruises from
Kngland or Amerira, including a visit to Egypt, see advertisements or
apply to the tourist-agencies.
Travellers who desire to return from Egypt by one of the larger mail
lines sliould secure a berth as soon as possible by applying to the ship-
ping offices in Cairo (p. 38), as these steamers are apt to be crowded
from February to April inclusive. Information as to available accom-
modation is telegraphed from Aden to Cairo. The days and hours given
below for the arrival and sailing of the steamers are approximate only,
except in the case of the terminal ports. At intermediate ports the steamers
.are sometimes behind itinerary time, and not unfrequently a day or two
in advance. In either case they proceed at once on their voyage.
Alexandria, the chief seaport of Egypt, is regularly visited by British,
German, French, Austrian, Italian, Russian, Greek, and Egyptian steamers.
Port Ha'id and Ismd'iltyeh, on the Suez Canal, are touched at by the vessels
of the great Australian. Asiatic, and E. African lines. — Cairo is reached by
rail from Ale.xandria or Isma'iliyeh in 3-3V2hrs., from Port Sa'id in i-i'/ilirs.,
and through-tickets are issued by some of the steamship companies.
Alexandria is almost 30° l*:. of Greenwich, and its time is 1 hr. 59 min.
in advance of Greenwich time; that of Cairo is 2 hrs. 5 min. and that
of Port Sa'id 2 hrs. 10 min. in advance of Greenwich. 'Central Europe''
time is 1 hr. in advance of Greenwich.
a. Steamship Lines from England direct.
The fares given below are in many cases subject to a surtax of 10 per cent.
1. Peninsular and Oriental Co. (offices, 122 Leadenball St.,
Is.C, and Northumberland Ave., S.W.}. Mail-steamer from London
(Tilbury Dock) every Frid., and intermediate steamer (from Royal
Albert Dock) every Sat., to Port Sa'id in 11 days, via Gibraltar and
Marseilles or via Malta; fares, 1st. cl. 19i. or 17Z., 2nd cl. iSl. or
iil. — From Marsdlles (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert 18) every Frid.
at 10 a.m. arriving at Port Sa'id about 1 p.m. on the following Tues.
(13;. or ill., %l. or80.
2. Orient Line (28 Cockspur St., S.W., and 5 Fenchurcli Ave.,
K.C.). From London (Tilbury Dock) every alternate Frid. to Port
Sa'id in 13 days, via Gibraltar, Totilon, and Naples (19i., 13i.). —
l-'rom Touion (Worms & Co., Quai Cronstadt) every alternate Thurs.
(13^, 9;.); from Navle:( (Holme & Co., Via Gugliclmo Sanfelice 24)
every alternate Sat. (9i., 7i.).
3. North Gfrman Lloyd (Nnrdde.utsoher Lloyd : 26 f'ockspur
St., S.W., and 2 King William St.. E.('.). From Southampton ea.
2 Route I. APPROACHES
thrice monthly to Port Sa'td in 13 days, via Genoa and Naples.
Fares from London 2il., iil.; from Genoa (Fratelli Leupold, Piazza
San Siro 10) 15?., 10/.; from Naples (Via Agostino Uepretis 49)
12i., 8l. — From Marseilles and from Venice to Alexandria by this
line, see p. 4.
4. Shire Line (4 Fenchurch Ave., E.G.) from London (Victoria
Docks) fortnightly to Port Sa'td in 14-15 days (12i., iOl.). — Brit-
ish India Steam Navigation Go. (9 Throgmorton Ave., E.G., and
16 Northumberland Ave., W.C.) from London (Royal Albert Dock)
three times monthly to Port Sa'td in 12 days (17/., 11/. 10»'.l. —
Union - Gastle Line (3 Fenchurch St., E.G.) from London (East
India Dock) every four weeks to Port Sa'td (17/. 17s., 10/. 10s.) via
Southampton, Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Naples, going on to Suez,
Port Sudan, and Mombasa (see pp. 423, 436).
5. From Liverpool to Port Sa'id: Bibby Line (26 Ghapel St.,
Liverpool) every alternate Thurs. in 13 days via Marseilles. Fare
ill., from Marseilles (Watson & Parker, Rue Beauvau 8; Frid.) 12/.
— Joint-service of the Hall and Gity Lines (22 Water St.) every
7-12 days, someti mes calling at Marseilles or Naples. Fares 14/., 9/. ;
from Marseilles (Watson & Parker, see above) lO/., 6/. ; from Naples
(Aselmeyer & Go., Piazza della Borsa 33) 9/., 6/. — Anchor Line
(Royal Liver Building, Water St.) about once a fortnight via Gibral-
tar (except in Sept., Oct., & Nov.); fares 12-15/., return 24-27/. —
Anchor Brocklebank Line (20 Bixtcth St.) about every 9 days
direct (9-11/., return 18-20/.).
6. From Liverpool to Alexandria : Ellerman & Papayanni Line
(22 Water St., Liverpool) in 14 days (12-14/., return 22-24/., round
trip of about six weeks, with 14 days in Alexandria, 26-28/.). —
.Moss Line (31 James St.) fortnightly via Gibraltar, Algiers, and
Malta (14/.). — Henderson Line (15 St. Vincent Place, Glasgow)
every alternate Thurs. (leaving Glasgow on the previous Sat.) in
13 days (14/., return 24/.).
7. Prince Line (Milburn House, Newcastle) every 10 days from
Manchester and every 14 days from London to Alexandria via Tunis
and Malta (12/., return 22/.).
8. From Southampton to Port Sa'td: Union-Castle Line, see
above ; North German Lloyd, see p. 1 ; Rotterdam Lloyd (3 East
India Ave. , London, E.G.) via Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and (9 days)
Marseilles (Ruys &Co. , Boul. Dugommier 5); Nbuerland Co. (60
Haymarket, London, S.W.) via Lisbon, Tangier, Algiers, and(9 days)
Genoa (Piazza Deferrari 36). Both lines start every alternate Tues
and take 14 days (fares 20/., 13/.). — German East African Line
(Deutsche Ost-Afrika-Linie) twice monthly from Southampton
(Smith, Sundius, & Co., 1 Canute Road) to Port Sa'id via Lisbon,
Marseilles (Wm.Carr, RueBeauvau 16), and Naples (Kellner & Lampe,
Piazza della Borsa 8) ; fares 20/. 15s., 11/. 10«. (from Marseilles
13/. 5s., 10/.; from Naples 12/., 8/. 15s.).
TO EGYPT. 1. Route. 3
b. Steamers from Mediterranean Forts.
Overland Routes from London to Meuitekiianean Ports. Brindisi
may be reached fn)in Londnn via Boulogne and Paris in 47'/2 hrs. by or-
dinary express (fare 9t. ils. lid. or 61. 9s. lOd.) ; or in 44 hrs. by the 'Penin-
sular Express', leaving; London every Frid. at 9 p.m. (fare, including
sleeping-car ticket, 13/. 18s. id. ; tickets obtainable only from the 'P. & 0.'
Co., p. 1, or the International Sleeping Car Co., 20 Cockspur St., S.W.). —
Genoa is 271/2 lirs. from London via Paris and Mont Cenis (fares 11. 6s. lid.,
52. is. id.). — Venice is 32 hrs. from London via Bale and the St. Gotthard
(fares 11. 15s. lid., ijl. Is. iOd.). — Naples is 45 hrs. from London via Paris,
Jtont Cenis, and Rome (fares 9i. 6s. bd., 6/. 6s. 'Ad.). — Marseilles is reached
from London in 19V2 brs. by the 'P. & O. Marseilles Express' (every Thnrs. -,
fare 9i. iOs. ; tickets from the P. <fe O. Co.); or in 193/4 hrs. by the 'Calais-
Mediterranean Express' (daily in winter; Istcl. only, 9/. 18s. 6d. or 9i. 4s. Id.
according to season; tickets from the Sleeping Car Co.); or in 22V2 brs.
liy ordinary express (fares 62. Ss. 6d., M. 7s. lid.). — Trieste is reached in
35 hrs. via Ostend (fares 8i., ril. Is. 6d.) or in 33 hrs. by the 'Simplon Ex-
press' (fare lU. 12s. 8d. ; tickets at 20 Cockspur St., London, see above),
in connection with tlie .\ustrian Lloyd steamers to Alexandria (see p. 5). —
Constantinople is roai'liod in 72 hrs. either via Paris and the 'Orient Express'
(4 times weeklv; fare ca. IS/.) or by the 'Ostend-Vienna Express' (fare
ca. 17/.)
For further details sec Bra<hhaw''s Continental Uaiiwau Guide (2s. or 3s. 6d.).
The chief lines of Steamers to Alexandria are: —
1. From Brindisi. Auilnan Lloyd (Trieste boat, see p. 5) every
Tues. at 12.30 p.m. and every Sat. at 1 p.m., reaching Alexandriaon
Frid. at 3.30 p.m. and on Men. at 2p.m. (fares from 300 fr., from
20U fr.); returning every Thurs. at 3 p.m. and every Sat. at 2 p.m.;
reaching Brindisi on Sat. at 4p.m. and on Wed. at 5.30 a.m. —
Societcl Italiana di Servizi Marittimi (Venice fast steamer, see p. 4)
every second Tues. at 5 p.m., reaching Alexandria at 7 a.m. on Frid.
(lares from 275 fr., 188 fr.); returning on Sat. at 4 p.m., reaching
I'rindisi on 'J'ues. at 6 a.m. Also fortniahtly slow steamer starting
from Venice, see p. 4.
Brindisi {Grand-Hotel Inlcrnntional, at the harbour, R. 5-lOfr.; Albergo
d^ lUiropa., Corso Garibaldi, 5 miu. from the station and harbour, K. from
2 fr., Albertjo Cenirale, same street, near the harbour), with 22,000 inhab.,
is the Brentesion or Brundisium of antiquity; it has regained its ancient
importance as a place of embarkation lor the Ea^t. — Comp. Baedekm-^s
Southern Italy.
2. From Naples. Socleth Italiana di Servizi Marittimi (office,
Via Agostino Depretis) fast steamer every second Mon. at 11 p.m.
via Syracuse, reaching Alexandria at 7 a.m. on Frid. (from 300 fr.,
200 fr.); returning on Sat. at 4 p.m., reaching Naples on Wed. at
4.30 a.m. — Societa Marittima Italiana (Genoa boat, see p. 4) every
Frid. at 5 p.m., reaching Alexandria on Wed. at 5.15 p.m. (200 fr.,
135 fr., without food): returning every Thurs. at 7 p.m., reaching
Naples on Wed. at 5.40 a.m. — North German Lloyd, see p. 4.
Naples [BtrtoliiiVs Palace Hotel, in the Parco Grifeo, R. from U fr. ; H6t.
Bristol^ Farker's Bo'el. Macphtrsons H61. Hritanniqve, Grand Eden Hotel, all four
high up in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the last two patronized by English
and American travellers, R. from 4 or 5 fr.; H6t. Excelsior, R. from 8 fr.,
Grand-HStei, R. from 5'/2 f r., both by the sea; all these are fashionable;
4 Route I. APPROACHES
Gr.-U6t. Santa Lucia; Or.-HCt. <l't Vdtuve; Gr.-H6l. Victoria; Hot. lioyal det
Etrangers; Or.-Eot. deLondres; Hdt. Hassler; Savoy Hotel; at these R. from
31/2 4, 5, or 6fr.), with over 60l),000 inhab., is the most populous town
in Italy after Milan. The environs of the town are among the most beau-
tiful in the world. Travellers are recommended to take a Wi.lk in the
grounds of the Villa If ationale. to drive along the Via Tasso and the Strada
A'vova di Posilipo , and to see the famous sculjjtures and Pompeian wall-
paintiDgs in the Museo NmionaU. The finest view is obtained from San
Martino, near the Casiel Sam'Elmo (tramway and cahle-railway 20 c). —
Com p. Baedeker'' s Southern Italy.
3. From Venice. North German Lloyd every other Sun. at 10 a.m.,
reaching Alexandria on Thurs. at noon (from 12^., Si.}; returnina;
every other Sat. and arriving on Wednesday. — Sociela Italiana di
Servizi Marittlmi (Ponte Goldoni 44U5), fast steamer every alternate
Mon. at 10 a.m., via Brindisi (see p. 3). reaching Alexandria on Frid.
at 7 a.m. (fares from 330 fr., 225 fr.): returning every alternate Sat.
at 4 p.m., reaching Venice on Weil, at 1.30 p.m. Also fortnightly
steamer in T'/o da) s via Ancona, Bari, Brindisi, Corfii, and Candia.
Venice (Hot. Royal Danieli, H61. de V Europe. Grand-Hotel, Gr.-H8t. Bri-
tannia., all four fashionable, R. from b or 7fr.; Gr.-Hot. d'jtalie- Bauer.,
Grand Canal Hotel et Monaco., HOI. Regina., with Knglish and American clien-
tele, Hdt. de Milanet Bristol, all lour on the <jrand Canal, R. from S'/z, 4,
or 5 fr. ; Hot. Beau-Rivage, Riva degli .Si;hiavoni, R. from 4 fr., English and
.\merican visitors), with 148 500 inhab., was the capital ot the powerful re-
public iif the same name until 179?. The railway station (restaurant) lies
at ttie N.W. end of tbe Grand Canal; a gumlola to the Piazzetta, near
which are most of the hotels, costs I'/a fr. with one rower. 3 fr. with two.
Travellers are recommended to see the Piazza of St. Mark, the Campanile
(•View), tbe Church of St. Mark, and the Doge's Palace, and to sail along the
Grand Canal. — Comp. Baedeker's Northern Italy.
4. From Genoa. Societa Marittima Italiana (Via Balbi), every
Tues. at 9 p.m., via Leghorn, Naples (see p. 3), Messina, Catania,
and Syracuse, reaching Alexandria on the eighth day (Wed.) at
5.15 p.m. (241 fr., I6O72 fr., food extra); returning on Thurs. at
7 p.m., reaching Genoa on the eighth dny (Frid.) at 7.10 a.m. —
.\orth German Lloyd, see p. 5.
Genoa {Gr.H6t. Miramare , fashionable, above the main station, R.
from 6 fr. ; Gr.-H6t. de Genes, Piazza Deferrari, R. from Sir.; Hoi.-Pens.
Bristol, Via Venti Settembre 35, Eden Palace Hotel, below the Acquasola
grounds, R. from 6 fr. ; Gr.-Hot. Savoy, close to the main sta'itn, Gr.-Hot.
Isotta, Via Roma 5, II. frcm 4 or 5 fr. ; Hot. de la VilU ; Modern Hot-^l;
Hot.-Pens. Smith, English; Hot. Victoria; etc.), with 163,200 inhab., is the
leading seaport of Italy. The Via Balbi, Via Cairoli. and Via Garibaldi are
lined with palaces which visitors should not tail to see; a splendid view is
obtained from the Castellaccio (cable-railway from the Piazza Zecca, 50 c). —
Comp. Baedeker^s Northern Italy.
5. From MAESEtbLEs, Steamers of the Messageries Maritimes (Place
Sadi-Carnot 3) leave Marseilles every Thurs. at noon, reaching
Alexandria on Mon. night (15i., lOZ. ; return 25i. 10s., 17L); return-
ing on Frid. at 4 p.m. Return-tickets, available one way by the Aus-
trian Lloyd Trieste -Alexandria service (see p. 5) and valid for
six months, are issued. — North German Lloyd (Wm. Carr, Rue
Beauvau 16) every Wed., calling at Naples (agent, see p. 2) every
alternate Frid., and reaching Alexandria on Sun. (direct boats) or
TO EGYPT. /. Route. O
Mou. (from ibt., lOi. ; I'roiu Naples from 12^, 8i. J. Passengers luay
join the New York steamer of the company at Genoa (fares as from
Marseilles) and change at Naples. In returning the boat leaves Alex-
andria on Wed,, reaching Naples on Sat. and Marseilles on Sun. or
Monday.
Marseilles {Gr.-Edt. du Louvre et de la Pair, Gr.-Hot. Noaillu el MHro-
poh, Oruud-Hotd, Rue de Koailles, liegitia HOtel, Place Sadi-Carnot, Ildtel
Bristol, Rue C'annebicre, all of the first, class, R. trom 4, 4'/'j, or 5 fr. ; Gr.-
HCit. Beaurav : Gr.-Bdt. de Geneve; U6l. du Petit - Louvre ; HOt. de Riusie et
d'AngUiarre, Terinimts - B6iel , near the St. Charles station; etc.), with ca.
560,6lO inhab., is the largest town but one and the most important seaport
in France. The street called Ln Cannthih'e, beginning at the inner harbour
or Vievx Pnrt, has long been the pride of the town. The best survey of
tLe town and iis environs is obtained from the church oi Notra-Dnme de la
Garde, to the 8. of the Vieu.K Port (cable railway there and back 8U c). —
Comp. JSaedekcr''s Southern France.
6. From Tkieste. Audrian Lloyd every Frid. at 1 p.m., touch-
ing at Brindisi (see p. 3; arriving at 11 a.m. on Sat.) ;ind reaching
Alexandria on Men. at 2 p.m. (from 360 fr., from 250 fr.); returning
on Thurs. at 3 p.m., reaching Trieste on ,Sun. at 4 p.m. Also every
Sun. (Port Sa'id boat, see p. 6).
Trieste (K.r<-ehior Pidnce Hotel, K. from 4, with bath from 12 A'; Hot. de
la Ville, K. S-dK; H61. Volpich aW Aquila Nei-a, with cafe-restaurant, R. H-
.5 K; all near the Molo San (Jarlu), witli 230.0L'U inhab.. is the chief seaport
of Austria. The South Railway 5tatiou (Stazioue Meridionale ; restauraut)
lies to the N. of the town, to the E. of the Poiio Nuovo, v\here the Lloyd
steamers lie to; the State Railway Station (Stazione dello Stato) is on the
S. side (cab 1 A' 6l) A, at night 2 A). Pleasant excursions may be made to
the chateau of Miranar ('/^ day), and to Opcina (2 hrs. ; electric mountain-
railway). — Comp. liaedeker^s An stria- Hvngary.
7. From Constantinople. Khedivial Mail Line every Tues. at
3p.m., calling at the Piracu j (Athens) on Thurs. (arriving 10 a.m.,
departing 4p.m. ), and reaching Alexandria on Sat. at 8 a.m. (£ E 8,
£ E 5 ; from the Pirceus £ E 5, £ E 3, 25 pias.) ; returning at 4 p.m.
on Wed., reaching the Pirseus on Frid. (10 a.m.) and Constantinople
on Sun. at 4 p.m. — liussianS.S. Co. every San. at 2 p.m., touching
at the Pirjeus at noon on Tues., and reaching Alexandria on Thurs.
at 2 p.m. (200 fr., 140 fr.); returning on Tues. at 4 p.m. — The
Eoumanian Express Steamers (Serviciul Maritim Roman), plying
weekly from Constanza ( Kustendji) to (12 hrs.) Constantinople and the
Pirffius, go on to Alexandria (fares from Constantinople 210-315 fr.,
130 fr.). Constanza is reached from Budapest via Bucharest in one
day by the Ostend Oriental Express (three times ■weekly), which
goes on to Constantinople also.
Constantinople {Pern Palace Hotel, on the public park of the Petits-
Champs, H6t. Jokatlian, opposite the Galata Serai, R. from B'/efr. ; H6t.
Bristol, H6t. de Londres, Hut. Bei liner Hof, H6t. Continental, all four on the
public park of the Pel its Chamois, I!. Irom 4, 4'/4, or 5 Ir. ; E6t. Kroecker,
Rue Kabristan, a liltle I clow tbe public park, R. from 4fr. ; Khedivial Palace
Hotel, Grande Rue de Pera, R. 4-7 fr., H8t. Grande Bretagne, Rue Venedik,
R. 3 5fr,, Hot. St. Pileribowg, on the park t)f the Pctits-Champs, with
R. only, these three of the second ilass; all the hotels are in the Pera
quarter, '/2 hr. from the station, cab 4',2fr. incl. liridge-toll, and 20min.
from the landiug-.stsge, cab 2'/i fr ), ihe capital of Turkey (ca. 1 n)illion
6 Rnute I. APPROACHES TO EGYPT.
inli.-vh), consists (if tbe port of Galata and the European suburb of Pera
ou lUe E. of the Golden Horn and Stamboul on the W. ; it includes also
Scutari on the Asiatic coast. Passing visitors should ascend the Galata Tower ^
drive to Stamboul over the New Bridge and visit the Hagia Sophia Mosque
and the Museum, walk through the Grand Bazaar with a dragoman, and
make a steamboat trip on the Bosphorus. — Comii. Baedeker^ s Mediterranean.
Akkital at Alexandria, f^ec p. 9.
The chief lines of Steamers to Port Said are the following: —
1. From Brindisi. Express-steamers of the 'P. >.S' O.' Co. (first
oahin only, 9i.l every Sun. night in connection with the Brindisi
P^xpress (p. 3), reaching Port Sa'id early on Wed. morning. —
Austrian Lloyd, see helow, No. 5.
2. From Naplks. Orient, North German Lloyd, Union- Castle,
German East African Line, and Hall i^- Citi/ Lines, see pp. 1,2. —
Societa Maritlimd Italiana, Genoa bo.its (s(m- below) in 8^/4 davs
(221 fr., 148 fr., food extra).
3. From Genoa. North German Lloyd and Nederland Lines, see
pp.1, 2. — Societa Maritlimn Italiana (office, see p. 4) twice monthly
(Bombay and Mombasa lines alternately; 267 fr., 176V2 fr., food
extra) via Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Catania, in 5^2 days.
4. P'rom Marseilles. P.^'O., BrUish India, Union- Castle, Bibby,
Hall if City, Rotterdam Lloyd, and German East African linos, see
pp. 1, 2. — Messageries Marillmes to Port Sa'id direct five times
monthly (IbL, iOl.).
5. From Trieste. Austrian Lloyd every Sun. at 1 p.m. to Brin-
disi (leaving every Tues. at 12.30 p.m.), Alexandria, and Port Sa'id.
arriving on Tues. (Wed. in Nov. & Dec.) at 7 p.m.
Arrival at Port Sa'id, see p. 177.
LOWER EGYPT.
loute Page
2. Alexandria 9
1/ History and Topography of Anrient Alexandria . . 12
2. Modern Alexandria 15
3. 'Environs of Alexandria (Ramleh, Meks) 24
4. Mareotis District (^City of St. Menas, Abnsir) ... 27
5. Excursion to Abukir and llosetta 30
3. From Alexandria to Cairo 31
4. Cairo 35
Preliminary Information.
a. IJailway Stations. Hotels and Pension.'!. Restaurants
and Cafes 35
b. Consuls. Police. Banks. Post & Telegrapli Offices.
Tourist Agents. Steamboat Offices 37
c. Tramways. Electricliailway. Steamers. Cabs. Donkeys.
Dragomans .'^8
d. Physicians. Chemists. Hospitals. Baths. Hairdressers -iO
e. Shops 40
f. Theatres. Clubs. Churches. Schools 41
;;. Sights and Disposition of Time 43
History of the City 44
Street Scenes 46
I'azaars 50
1. The Ezbekiyeh and the New Quarters 51
2. The Muski and its Side Streets (Gami' Seiyidna
'1-Hosein, Gami' el-x\zhar, Ganii' el-Muaiyad, Gami'
el-Mardani) 53
3. The South-Eastern Quarters : Shari' Mohammed Ali ;
Arabian Museum ; Khedivial Library; Mosque of
Sultan Hasan j Citadel and Mosque of Mohammed
Ali; Mosque of Ibn Tulun 02
4. The Northern Quarters: Sflk es-vSaigh; Muristan
Kalaiin; Tomb of En-Nasir; Barkukiych; Bab el-
Futijh and Bab en-Nasr 74
5. Bulak, Gezireh, and the Gizeh Suburb 78
0. The Egyptian Museum 80
A. The Ground Floor with the Larger Stone Monu-
ments 81
Monuments of the Ancient Empire 82
Monuments of the Middle Empire and of the Hvksos
Period .'...'.. 54
Monuments of the New Empire 84
Monuments of the Foreign Dvnastie-i and the Laler
Period " 87
Monuments of the GrsECO-Rom;in and Coptic Periods 88
Kaedekuk s Ksrvot. 7th Kdit i
LOWER RGTPT.
Route Page
B. The Upper Floor, witli tlie Smaller Antiquities
and the Mammies 90
Natural History Collection 90
Royal Mummies 93
Jewelry 97
Manuscripts, Papyri, etc 101
5. Environs of Cairo 104
1. The Island of lirula ;iiul 01(1 Cairo 104
2. The Tombs of the Caliphs and the Mamelnkes . .111
3. Tlie Mokattam Hills 116
4. Spring of Moses and tlie Petrified Forest . . . .117
5. New Heliopolis (Heliopolis Oasis) 119
6. Old Ueliopolis 119
7. Barrage du Nil 121
6. The Pyramids of Oizeh 123
History and Construction of the Pyramids .... 124
The Three Great Pyramids, tlie Sphinx, and tlie
Valley Temple of Khephren 127
Circuit of the Pyramid Plateau 1B7
The Pyramids of Abu Roash and Abusir .... 139
7. The Site of Ancient Memphis and the Necropolis of
Sakkara 142
Colossal Statues of Ramses II 144
Convent of St. Jeremiah 146
Step Pyramid of Sakkara 146
Serapeum 147
The Mastabas of Ti, ofMereruka, and ofKe-gem-ni 149
The Street of Tombs. Mastaba of Ptahhotep . 162, 163
Pyramid of King Onnos 165
Pyramids of Dah.ihur 166
8. Baths of Hehvan 167
9. From Cairo to Mansi'ira via Belbeis and Zakazik . . . 170
10. From Tanta to Damietta via Mansilra 174
11. From Port Sa'id to Cairo or Suez via Ismii'iliy eh . . . 177
12. The Suez Canal from Port Sa'id to Suez 181
13. Suez and its Environs 187
14. The Faiyiim 190
iO<
^
PaladiTlaset-TiTv
Porl-abri
pour I
MaliormesP QIIT OUEST
[ I
(Port d' E un o s t e de ^ An c
PORT ACTLE
urrr;^ tctim^^^StatiVTn -I'lace ircHtSmertTli:
2. Alexandria.
Arrival by Sea. Most of the steamers beith at the wharf of the luner
Harhour (if not, cinbarkation or disembarkation cosis 2, at night 3 pias.,
each trunk t pias.)- As soon as the brief sanitary inspectiun is over the
traveller should have his luggage conveyed to the hotel or station (20-
25 pias., everything included) by the Arab hotel -servants or by one of
Cook^s or the Uamhnrg-Ainerican Line's agents. These are recognizable by
heir oflicial caps or 1)y the brass plates on their breasts. Those who em-
ploy unauthorized person.* will certainly be cheated. Trouble is saved by
securin;,' a landing ticket (1 pers. ca. 5, 2 pers. 9 fr., etc.) and a railway-
ticket to Cairo (1st cl. '22 fr. 70, 2ad cl. 11 tr. 35 c.) when purchasing oue\s
steamer-berth; through-carriages are run from the harbour during the sea-
son in connection with the principal steamship -lines. The custom-house
examination (eomp. p. xv) is usually made easy for tourists.
Railway Station. Gare cln Caiie or Garc Bab el-Gvedid (VI. G, 5 ; bufl'et).
A new large station building is leing erected.
Hotels (comi>. p. xviii). '.S.wor Palace IIotei, IPI. n; U, 4), Rue de
la Porte de Rosette 35, with a bar, R. 30-QO, B. 10, dij.'';0, D. 30, pens.
70100 pias. — Grand Hotel, formerly Hot. Aubat tPl. h; F, i) , Square
Ste. Catherine, U. 23-50, B. 6, dej. oi" 1). 20, pens, from GO pias.; Excel-
sior Hotel (PI. a; H. 4), I'ue de )a Porte de Rosette 21, with a bar, i;.
from 30, 1!.' 10, di'j. 16, D. 20, pens, from 60 uias. ; JIetkopole Hotel (PI. k •
F, G, 3), Rue Averoff, near the E. harbonr, R. 20-20, B. 5, d^j. 16, D. 20',
pens. 4u60pias. ; Windsor Hotel (PI. d; (J, 3l, Rue Averolf7, with bar'
li. 20-28, 15. 5, <\lj. 15, D. 20, pens. 50-60 pias.; Hotel des Votagedrs
(PI. f; F, 4), Rue do I'Kglise Eeossaise 4, in course of reconstruction;
Hotel Bu.N.v.'iRD iPl. c; F, 3), Rue Champollion 7, R. 10-20, de'j. or D. 10
tincl. wine), peis. 40-17 pias.; Hotel du Nil (PI. Ii ; F, 3), Rue de I'An-
cienne Bourse 11, R. 1214, B. 4-5, dej. or I). 10, pons. 35-40 pias. ; Hotel
Canal i>e Suez iPI. i; inset F, 3, 4), Kue de I'Ancienue Bourse 9. — Hotel
Continental (PI. c; F, 4), Rue de France 2, a hotcl-garni with restaurant;
Pension lonio (Italian), I!uc Adili, opposite the Deutsche (Irientbank (PI.
F, 4), per nil nih X E 6-S, and Boul. de Bamleh 35, pens. £ E 9.
Cafes (.Vi-aliian colfee ■/-• 1 l>ias. per cup), in the PlaceMehemet Ali ( PI. F, 4)
and elsewhere. — Restaurants. JUsloranle Fireme, Kuc de la Pnste 14 (PI.
F, 3, 4); r,esi(mrant Vniversel, Rue de PAncienne Bourse 9 (PI. F, 4); Stella
d' Italia, Rue Tou'^soun Pacha 7. — Beer. Germauiit, Schmidt, Rue de TAn-
lienne Bourse 5 and 7; Serreli, I!ue de I'Eglise Eeossaise 2 (PI. F, 3, 4).
— Bars. Old Bourse Bar, elegantly fitted up, Spathis, Rue de rAncienne
Bourse 3 and 6; Castelli, Rue Cherif Pacha 1. — I'appci, Rue Che'rif Pacha 21
(preserved meats, etc.). — Confectioners. Conjiserie Albengo, Kue Che'rif
Pacha 17; Pdlisserie Khkliviale (J. Athineos), Rue Nebi Daniel 25, corner oi
the Rue de la Porte de Rosette; Saiilt, Kuc Cherif Pacha 26.
Baths at the hotels (see above). — Sea Baths at Shatbi (p. 25), in the
Bay of Ant'ushi (p. 19), at San Stefano near Ramleh (p. 26), and at Meks
(p. 26).
Clubs. Cercle K/u'divial, on the first floor of the Exchange (P). F, 4),
handsomely fitted up, patronized by Europeans of all nations; introduction
by a inemlicr neces.-avy ; after a week visitors must purchase a ticket of
admission. — Cercle Mohammed Ali, Rue de la Portu de Rosette 2, similar. —
SporliiKj Club, near Kainleh, see p. 25. — i'nion Club, Rue ds PAncienne
Bourse 6. — Brilish Club, Rue do la Gare de Ramleh 15. Numerous news-
papers at Ihe^e, anrl also in the reading room of the Exchange.
Electric Tramways, focussing in the Place .■»leli.met Ali (PI. F, 4l.
Fares, 1st class 10 mill., 2nd clas.s 5 mill. — 1. Hand Point (PI. K, 3) -Rue.
d'Allemaguo- Place M.*hemet Ali-Rue des Sueurs - r/a66«)-i (PI. C, 1), 8;
p.2G). — 2. Clmmps r/i/s.'ff (l'\. I., 5) U;iilvvay Station - Place Mchemet Ali-
10 Route 2. ALEXANDRIA. Practical Notes.
Cuilom House (Dniiaiie; PI. D, 5). — 3. riailwaij Slatioii-Rac du Premier
Khedive (PI. EG, 5, 6) - Rue de la Marine -fids et-Tin (PL B C, 3), aud on
to the Bav of AnfUihi (PI. (J, 1, 2; p. 19j. — 4. ^n/(?«At-alonf; the quay-Place
Mehemel .Ali-Rue .A)io\i Dardaa (PI. F, 4, 5) -Rue de la Cnlonne PompiSp.
(Pompev's Pillar, p. \S\)-Karnums (Kom esh-Shukala, p. 17). — 5. Ilnnd Point
(PI. K, '6)-Kuzlia Oarden (p. 20). — 6. Place Mihiiiia ^Zi-Rue Tewfik Premier-
Rue Masguid el- Attarine-7.'«e Ragheb Pacha (PI. G, H, 6, 7). — 7 (circular
line), champs Elysees (PI. 1., 5)- Rue MobaTreiu Bey -Rue Ni'bi l>aniel
(PI. G, 5, 4)-Ruc MissalUi-Jfew (J.uay.s (PI. G, F, 3)-PIa"ce Me'hcmet Ali-Rue
Tewfik Premier -Rail way Station - ('/saw^,'! Elysfes. — To Mels and Pamleh,
.seeipp. 26, 24.
Cabs (comp. p. xviii). Wii/iin the town: one-borse cab per drive not
exceeding lOmin. 2 iiia.s., twn-horse 3 pias. ; per 20 min. 2^/i and 4 pias. ;
per 1/2 hr. 3 and 5 pias. ; per hour 6 and 9 pia.s., each addit. 1/4 hr. l'/2 and
2Hpias.; from tlie steauier to the Gare du Caire or vice vc.rsd 3 and .5 pias.
To^tbe suburbs, comji. the tarifl' inside each cab. A liaruain should always
lie made beforehand, especially for longer drives, with the assistance of
the hotel-porter or of a commissionnaire. — Taximeter Motok Cabs may
be found in tlie Place M61n'met Ali.
Commissionnaires (procured through the hotels) charge 20-30 pias. per
day, but may lie hired for temporary purposes for 4-5 pias. Offers to escort
the traveller to Cairo, and even np the Nile, should be disregarded, as the
only suitable dragomans are to be found at Cairo (comp. pp. xxv, 39).
Post Office iPl. F, 3; p. xixl, open 7-12 & 2-9.30. France has a post-
office of its own (Rue de la Gare de Ramleh 1). — Telegraph Offices.
Egyptian, Kue Tewfik Premier, at the Exchange (PI. F, 4); English (PI. F, 4),
Rue du Teli'graphe Anglais 5.
Consulates. Bitrn.*ii (PI. 6; H, 3), Rue de THopital Egyptien : consul-
general, D. A. Cameron, C.M.G.; vice-consul, A. B. Geary. — Amekican, Rue
Adib 1 (PI. F, 4) : consul, A. Garrets. There are also Danish, Dutch, French.
German, ^Norwegian, Swedish, and other consular representatives.
Tourist Agents. Tlios. Cook <f- .5o», Rue de la Porte de Rosette '}.
f PI. G,.H, 4); ffnmburg-American Line, Square Ste. Catherine (PI. F, 4); F. T.
Foiiades & Co., Rue Cherif Pacha 27 (PI. G, 4).
Steamboat Offices. Peninsular it Oriental Co., Rue Cl(5opatre4 (Haselden
& Co.; 'Box 153); Mrssageries Marilimes, Place M^hemet Ali 3 ( Ricard) ;
Austrian Lloi/d, Rue de la Porte de Rosette 1 (H. de Pitner); Societii Marittima
Ilaliana, Rue Tewfik Premier 2 (L. Bonenfaut); Sociela Italiann di'iServizi
Marittinii, Rue Sc'sostris 11 (A. Capua); North Gorman Lloyd and Poumanian
Line, Rue .Sosostris 16 (Miiller & Co.); Compagnie Russe, Rue St. Marc 1;
German Levant Line, Rue Toussoun Pacha i (Stross); Khedivial Mail Steam-
hip Co., Rue Centrale; White Star Line, Rue de la Jlarine (Ross it Co.). —
Lloyd's Agent, Francis H. Manley, Rue Cleopatre 3.
Banks (usually open 9-12 & 3-5). Banque Imph'iale OUomane , Place
Mehemet Ali 5 (PI. F, 4); National Bank of Egypt, Rue Toussoun Pacha 4
(PI. G, 4); Anglo-Egyptian Bank, Rue Cherif Pacha 7 (PI. F, G, 4); Cridil
lyonnais, Rue Cherif Pacha 4; Banque (PAthines, Rue Cherif Pacha 25;
Dei/tsche Orientbank (PI. F, 4), Rue Adib 4.
Physicians. Dr. Ekins, Dr. MacLeod, Dr. Morrison, Dr. Wehh-.Tones, and
others, English; Dr. Gatzky (sxirgeon; see below). Dr. Kanzki , German;
])r. Kartulis, Greek. — Dentists. Dr. Curtis, Dr. Leuty (Americans); Dr.
Kdlhe Lederer (German). ~ Oculist, Dr. Osborne, Austrian. — All the ad-
dresses may be obtained at the chemists' (see below).
Chemists. Hiiber (Greek owner), Kue Cherif Pacha .35; Rnelberg, Rue
de TAncienne Bourse 1; Del Mar, Rue Tewfik Premier 2.
Hospitals. European Hospital (PI. F, 4, 5; large), Rue Sidi el-Met-
walli; Government Hospitnl (PI. H, 3), with a foundling asylum, an ad-
mirable institution, with modern appliances; German Deaconesses' Hospital
(PI. L, 3, 4), at Hadra (p. 20), an excellent establishment, managed by
Dr. Gatzky; Austria - Hungarian Hospital, Jewish Hospital, both in the Rue
Jloharrem Bey; Greek Hospital (Pi. G, 4), Rue de THopital Grec.
HarhoiLr. ALEXANDlllA. -J. Roulc. 11
Booksellers. L. Scliuler, Rue Cherif Pacha 6 (phologMplis also). —
Photographs. Beifi'.r .(■ Binder. Rue de I'Ancienne Bourse 6 (also art-
dealers); Lassavt', Riif dc rEglist' l)olpbaii(< 7; Fettel ti- Bernard, Kue Tous
soun Pacha 1. — Photographic Materials. Egypt Kodak, Rue Chdri
Pacha 30; Del Mar, Hue Tewfik Premier 2. — Music. Hugo Hackh, Rue
Cherif Pacha 18. — English Newsi'apek: Egyptian Gazette (daily).
Shops for all kinds of European articles are to be fiiuiid in the Rue
Cherif Pacha (Davies, Bryan, i Co.) aud the Place Meht5niet Ali. — Ready-
made clothing : Mayer <k Co., Slein, Goldemberg, Place MObeinet Ali. —
Reproductions of ancient Egyptian ornaments : Stobbe, Rue Cherif Pacha 29.
— Carpets, silks, etc. at Tatca^s, Rue Cbdrif Pacha 13. — Cigars and cigar-
ettes at H. iS; C. Flick's, Hue de TAncienne Bourse 1.
Theatres. Auoro Teatro Alfiambra (PI. 0, 3), corner of Rue Missalla
and Eue de I'Hopital Egyptien ; Jardin Eosette, Rue de la Porte de Rosette
(t'l. H, 4).
Churches. Anolicax: St. Market ('Egl. anglicane'; PI. F, 4), Place
Mehemet Ali; chaplain, Ven. Archdeacon Ward, M.A. (Archdeacon in Egypt
and Bishop's- Commissary); service on .Sundays at 8, 11, & 6.15 o'clock.
All Saints\ at Bulkeley, see p. 26. — Roman Catholic : St. Catherine's Cathe-
dral (PI. F, ll and Lazarist Church (PI. F, 4). — Peesbytekian : St. Andrew's
(PI. 1; F, 8,4), Rue de TEgliseEcossaise ; chaplain Bfv. 6. M. Mackie, D. D;
service at 10.30 a.m. — American Mission Church ('Egl. americ.'; PI. 01, 4), Rue
Sidi el-Metwalli, near Karakol "^Attarin ; jiastor, Dr. Finney. — Protestant
Church (PI. F, 3). Rue de la Poste; German or French service at 9.45 a.m. —
Several Greek Churches, Si/iiagogues, etc.
Disposition of Time. 1st Day. In the morning walk through the
inner town, by the Hue Itosette, Rue Chirif Pacha, and Place Miliimet Ali;
go by tramway or cab to Pompey's Pillar (p. 16) and the Catacombs of
K8m esh-Shnkdfa (p. 17). The return should be made via the MahmUdiyeh
Canal and the Nuzha Garden (p. 20), tlience to the Rond Point, and along
the Rue d' AUemagne to the Place Mehemet Ali. — 2nd Day. Visit the Museum
(p. 21) in the morning. In the afternoon go by the Rue de France to the
Palace of Rds et-Tin and into the Arab and Turkish Quarters (p. 19).
Alexandria, called Iskaiider'teh by the Avails and Turks, the sec-
niid town of Egypt and one of the most important commercial cities
on the Mediterranean, is situated at the W. extremity of the Nile
delta, on the narrow sandy strip separating Lake Mareotis from the
sea, in p:. long. 29° 58' and N. lat. 31° 1.9'. In 1907 the population
amounted to 332, 246 (now estimated at 400,000), of whom about
60,000 were Europeans f Franks), chiefly Greeks (24,600) and Italians
(15,916), but including also some Britons, Erench, and Austrians,
and a few llussians, Germans, etc. The Mohammedans live chiefly
in theN. and W. quarters of the city, the Europeans in the E. quarter
and at Ranileh. The town has a governor of its own (p. xlvii).
Alexandria has two Harbours. The Port Est, or E. harbour,
known in antiquity as the 'Great Harbour' and tlieu sheltered by
a massive mole, is now accessible only for fishing-boats. It is sur-
rounded by quay.-i (see p. 19). Tlie Port Quest, or W. harbour,
originally named Eunoftos or 'Harbour of the Safe Iteturn', was not
freely used until the time of the later Roman emperors. Since
1871 it has been enlarged by the addition of an ihtter Harbotir,
over 1700 acres in area. This is protected by a breakwater nearly
2 M. in length, con.structed of solid masses of masonry. A second
pier, or Molo, nearly 1000 yds. in length, protects tiie Inner Harbour,
which is about 470 acres in area and on an average 28 ft. deep. From
12 linule 2. AI-r<;.\AiNl)];)A. HiMnry.
tlie ■beginning of tlie pier a series of quays, backed by warehouses,
extends along tlie whole E. side of tlie harbour to the Arsenal. The
Mahmudiych or Mahnudia Canal (p. 15) enters the inner harbour
by several lociis (PI. D, 6). The port is entered and cleared an-
nually by upwards of '2000 steamers, about half of which are under
the British flag. In 1912 the imports amounted to £ E 22, 157, 029 ,
the exports (chiefly cotton, grain, cotton-seed, beans, rice, sugar,
onions, tomatoes, etc.) to ;£E 33, 790, 256.
1. History and TorooRAPHY of Ancient Alexandria.
Alexandria was founded in 331 B.C. by Alexandtr the Great
and forms a magnificent and lasting memorial of his Egyptian cam-
paign. He conceived the plan of founding a new and splendid sea-
port town in Egypt, both to facilitate tlie flow of Egypt's wealth
towards Greece and the Archipelago, and to connect the venerable
kingdom of the Pharaohs with that widely extended Greek em-
pire which it was his great ambition to found. The site chosen
was opposite the island of Pharos, near the ancient Egyptian village
of Rhakotis, between the Mediterranean Sea and the Mareotic Lake
(p. 27), which was connected with the Nile by several navigable
channels. The choice was both judicious and far-seeing. For the
older and apparently more favourably situated harbours at the E.
end of the Delta were exposed to the danger of being choked by the
Nile mud, owing to a current in the Mediterranean, beginning at the
Strait of (iibraltar and washing the whole of the N. African coast.
Deinocrates, the architect, was entrusted with the planning and
building of the new city. After Alexander's death, when his empire
was^ divided among his generals, Ptolemy I. Soter (323-285 B.C.)
came into possession of Egypt. During his wise and upright reign
Alexandria became a great resort of artists and scholars, including
Demetrius Phalereus, the orator, who suggested the foundation of
the famous library, Apelles and Antiphilus, the painters, Euclid,
the mathematician, andErasistratus and Herophilus, the physicians.
This Ptolemy founded also the Museum (p. 13), a splendid pile de-
dicated to science and poetry, in which scholars dwelt as well as
studied and taught.
Notwithstanding the continual dissensions among the Ptolemies
with regard to the succession to the throne (p. cviii), which seri-
ously disturbed the peace of the city, the fame of Alexandria, as
the greatest centre of commerce in the world and the chief seat of
Greek ;learning, steadily increased, and it had readied its zenith
in 48 B.C., when the Pomans interfered in the quarrels of Cleo-
patra and her husband and lirothex Ptolemy XIV. After the murder
of Pompey at Pelusium Caesar entered Alexandria in triumph, but
was attacked by the citizens and the army of Ptolemy XIV. and
had considerable difficulty in maintaining himself in the Regia
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Aiicirnt 'l\j}in<jr(ijiliii. AI-lv\ ANDKIA. -. Hou(c. lo
(see below). Caisar was afterwards conquered by the charms of the
I'^gyptian queeu, but Antony fell uiore fatally into lier toils and
spent years of revelry witli her at Alexandria (42-30). Augustus
enlarged the city by the addition of the suburb of Nicopolis (see below
and p. 25). At this prosperous period Alexandria is said to have
numbered more than half-a-million inhabitants. The Greek element
predominated, next in importance to wliich was tlie Egyptian, while
a numerous, but exclusive, Jewish community was settled here as
early as the 4th cent. 15. C
The Greek scholar anil traveller Stntbo describes Alexandria as it was
in the decades immediately before the beginning of our era. in the 17th Book
of his Geography. The former island of Pharos had lieen united to the
mainland by an embankment known as the Heptastadium (see below), and
on the E. e.xtreniity of the island rose the famous lighthouse built of
white limestone by Sostratu.', the Cnidian, in the reign of Ptolemy II.
I'hiladelphus (completed in 280-279 B.C.), which was regarded by the an-
cients as one of the wonders of the world, and gave its name of 'Pharos'
\n jll lighthouses afterwards erected. Its three-storied design became later
Ihe model for the Egyptian minaret (p. cLxxxii). Its original height is said
to have lieen 4t)0 ells (500 ft. 1 and, though even in antiquity it threatened
more than once to collapse, part of the ancient tower still stood erect after
the great earthquakes of 1303 and 1326. This was overwhelmed by the sea
a little later, and the present fortifications ('Fort du Phare' or 'Fort Kait
15ey') were erected near its site in the 15th century. The Jlepiastadhmi^
a vast embankment seven stadia (1 100 yds.) in length, as its name imports,
was constructed by Ptidemy Soter or by his son Philadelpbus. It was
pierced by two passages, both bridged over, and before Caesar's time served
also as an aqueduct. Having since that period been artificially enlarged
iiy ddbris from the ancient city, thrown into the sea, as well as by natural
deposits, it has attained a width of more than 1600 yds. and now forms
the site of a great part of the modern city.
.\mong the Puincipal Quahtkus of the ancient city Strabo partic-
ularly mentions the Necropolis or city of the dead, at the extreme W.
end, 'where there are manv gardens, tombs, and establishments for em-
balming bodies' ; llhakotis. 'the quarter of Alexandria situated above the
sliips' magazines', chielly inhabited by Egyptians (comp. p. 12); the Royal
Citij (Regia; afterwards c aWed BrucHum), which was subsequently walled
in and contained the palaces and public buildings, on the mainland
lietween the promontory of Lochias and the Heptastadium; the Jews'
Quarter, situated to the E. of the Lochias. Outside the Canopic gate, on
Ihe E., lay the hippodrome, and farther to the E., 30 stadia from Alexan-
dria, was the suburl) of NiropoUs (p. 26), which possessed an amphi-
heatre and a race-conrse.
The town was regularly built, with streets intersecting each other
at right angles. The main artery of traffic seems to have been the long
street beginning at the Canopic gate (comp. p. 20).
Of the Pkikoii-ai. Buildings of ancient Alexandria the scanty relics
of a few only can be identified. The Paneum is doubtless identical
with the modern Kom ed-Dik (p. 20). The Gymnasium probably lay to
the W. of this point. The theatre, the Sema, and the Museum were all
three situated in the 'Royal City' (see aliove). The Alexandrian Theatre
lay opposite the island oi' Antirrhodus, so that the spectators had a fine
view of the sea in the liackground. The Sema, which lay near the royal
palace, probably to the W. of the present Government Hospital (p. 20),
was an enclosed space, within whicU were the tombs of Alexander the
Great and of tlie Ptolemies.
The Uuseum, the site of which cannot be satisfactorily determined,
contained 'a ball lor walking, another for sitting, and a large building
with the refectory of the scholars residing at the Museum'. Connected
14 Route 2. ALEXANDHIA. Hislory.
with the Museum was the famous Alexandrian Lib7'ary, which contained
400,000 scrolls as early as the reign of Ttolemy II. Philadelphus, while in
Caesar's time, when it was burned, the number had risen to about 900,000.
The library lay to the N. of the Museum, near the harbour. Apart from the
revenues enjoyed by the Museum in its corporate capacity, a yearly salary
was paid to each of the members, whose number in the time of the first
Ptolemies has been estimated at one hundred at least.
The Serapeum (Greek Sarapeion), or great temple of .Serapis, whose
worship was introduced by the Ptolemies, was situated on the hill on
which stands Pompey's Pillar (p. 16).
In 69 A.D. Vespasian was proclaimed emperor by tlie Alexan-
drians, his recognition having been to a great extent due to the
influence of the philosophers then resident at the Museum. In
Trajan s reign (^98-117) the Jews, who constituted one-third of
the whole population, caused sanguinary riots. Hadrian (117-138),
who visited the city in 130, held public disputatious with the pro-
fessors at the Museum. Marcus Aureliiis (161-180) attended the
lectures of the grammarians Athenseus, Harpocration, Hephsestion,
Julius Pollux, and others. Lucian also lived at Alexandria at this
period, in the capacity of secretary to the prefect of Egypt. In
199 Septimius Severus (190-211) visited Alexandria and established
a municipal constitution. A disastrous visit was that of Caracalla
(211-217), who revenged himself for the derision of the citizens
by a bloody massacre and also caused the academy to be closed.
Still more disastrous were the contests between the Palmyrenes and
the Imperialists (p. cxi), in which a large part of the population was
swept away by the sword, pestilence, and famine.
Christianity early found its way to Alexandria. According to
tradition the Gospel was first preached to the Alexandrians by St.
Mark (whose bones were removed to Venice in 829). The first
great persecution of the Christians, which took place in the reign
of Decius (250), was a terrible blow to the Alexandrians. The city
had for a considerable time been the seat of a bishop, and had
since 190 possessed a theological school, presided over by Pantanus
and Clement of Alexandria (beginning of 3rd cent.), who endeavour-
ed to combine Christianity with the Neo-Platonism which sprang
up about this period at Alexandria and was taught by Ammonius
Saccas, Herennius, Plotinus (p. 233), Porphyrius, lamblichus, and
others, A second persecution took place in 257, during the reign of
Valerian; and shortly afterwards, in the reign of Oallienus, the
plague carried off a large portion of the population. Alexa dria,
however, still continued to be regarded as the chief seat of Christian
erudition and of the orthodox faith (Athanasian Creed), until it
was eventually obliged to yield to Constantinople its proud posi-
tion as the centre of Greek thought and science. Sanguinary quar-
rels'took place between the Athanasian party and the Arians under
their unworthy bishop Georgius. On the accession of Julian the
Apostate (361-363) the pagans of Alexandria again instituted a
persecution of the Christians. In the reign of Theodosius (379-395),
Jiislonj. AI.EXANDRIA. 2. Route. 15
however, paganism received its death-blow, and TheopMlns, the
patriarch of Alexandria, displayed the ntmost zeal in destroying
the heathen temples and monuments. It was at this time that the
famous statue of Serapis was burned. The material prosperity
of the city also fell off so greatly that the municipality was no
longer able to defray the cost of cleansing the Nile and keeping
the canals open. The revenues of Alexandria were scill further
diminished by the proceedings of the patriarch Cyril, who led the
armed mob against the synagogues and expelled the Jews from the
city, and in 415 the learned and beautiful pagan Hypatia, daugh-
ter of the mathematician Theon, was cruelly murdered by an in-
furiated crowd. Under Justinian (r)'27-565) all the still existing
heathen schools were finally closed.
In 619 Alexandria was captured by Chosroes IJ., King of Persia,
but the Christians were left unmolested. Ten years later Hera(;lius
recovered possession of Egypt, biit the troops of the Caliph Omar
soon afterwards invaded the country and took^Alexandria after a
prolonged siege. In October, 641, 'Amr ibn el-'As, Omar's general,
entered the city; but he treated the inhabitants with moderation.
The decline of Alexandria now became rapid in the same propor-
tion as the growing prosperity of the newly-founded capital on the
Nile, the modern Cairo, and its commerce received a death-blow
by the discovery of America and of the sea-route to India round
the Gape of Good Hope.
The decay of the once powerful seaport, which contained only
i'jOOO inhab. in 1800, was at length effectually arrested iiy the
vigorous hand of Mohammed All (p. oxx), who improved the har-
bours and constructed several canals. The chief benefit he con-
ferred on Alexandria was the construction of the Mahmiidhjeh Canal
(p. 12), begun in 1819 and named after the reigning Sultan Mab-
mud II. Through this channel the adjoining fields were irrigated
anew and Alexandria was agaiTi connected with the Nile and the rest
of Egypt, the products of which had long found their only outlets
through the Kosetta and Damietta mouths of the river. Subsequent
viceroys also made great efforts to improve the position of the town.
It suffered severely, however, during Arabi's rising in 1882(p.cxxiii),
and a great part of the European quarter was laid in ashes; but all
traces of this misfortune have disappeared and the town is again
quite prosperous.
'2. MoBERN Alkxandkia.
The great centre of European life is the long Place Mehemet
All (PI. F, 4), or Vlace de$ Consuls, which is embellished with trees.
In the centre rises the Equestrian Statue of Mohammed All (PL 3;
see above^, designed by Jacquemart and cast in Paris. The statue
stands on a pedestal of Tuscan marble. This S(iuare was the prin-
cipal scene of destruction in 188'2. On the N.E. side stands the
16 floute-2. AI.KXANDHIA. J'oinpey's I'iUnr.
English Church of St. Mark ('Egi. aiiglicane', Pi. F, 4; p. 11), ad-
joined by St. Mark's Building, belonging to the British community;
on the E. side is the Exchange; on the S.W. are the Law Courts.
These are the only buildings which escaped the fury of the natives in
1882. In the garden beside St. Mark's Building is a bust of General
Earle^ who fell at the battle of Kirbekan in 1885 (p. 419). — From
the E. side of the square runs the busy Rue Cherif Pacha, the chief
seat of the retail trade, witli attractive shops (in the side-streets
also); from the S. side the Rue des Sceurs (tramway No. 1, p. 9),
prolonged by the long Rue Ibrahim Premier, constructed through
an old and crowded Arab quarter, leads to the quarter of Minet
el-Bassal (PI. D, E, 6), the focus of the cotton trade, with the
Cotton Exchange (accessible in the forenoon to visitors introduced
to a cotton-exporter). The Rue Ibrahim ends at the Pont Neuf or
Pont Ibrahim, crossingthe Mahmudiyeh Canal (p. 12). On the S. bank
of the canal lies the quarter of Mme( esh-Sharkaunyeh{^Chargaou1ye;
PI. D,E, 7), occupied by wholesale dealers in grain, sugar, onions, etc.
— Gabbari and thence to Meks, see p. 26.
From the S.Pl corner of the Place Meh^met Ali we reach the
triangular Square Ste. Catherine (PI. F, 4), with the Roman Catholic
church of St. Catherine. The Rue Abou Dardaa (tramway No. 4, p. 10)
leads hence to the S., passing the European Hospital (PL F, 4, 5),
the Armenian Church (PI. F, 5), and the College St. Francois Xavier,
to the Sidi Amr Mosque (PI. G, 6).
We now turn to the right into the Rue du Premier Khedive and
then (almost at once) to the left into the Rue de la Colonne Pompee,
which leads to the S., past a large Arab cemetery (PI. F, G, 6, 7),
to an eminence covered with rubbish and fragments of ruins, the
site of the ancient Serapeum (p. 14). Here rises *Pompey's Pillar
(Arab. El-'Amud; PI. F, G, 7; adm. 3 pias., June-Sept. 1 pias., but
comp. p. 21), the largest well-preserved relic of antiquity in the
city. We reach the top of the plateau by a flight of steps. All
around lie fragments of Roman buildings and other objects revealed
by the extensive excavations begun by Botti (p. 21) and continued
by the Von Sieglin Expedition (1898-1902) and by Breccia (p. 21 ;
1905-7). The monument is composed of red granite from Assuan.
The height of the column, including the rectangular pedestal and
the Corinthian capital, is 88 ft. ; the shaft, 68 ft. high, is about
9 ft. in diameter at the bottom and not quite 8 ft. at the top. The
foundations, composed of several blocks (one with the name and
figure of Sethos I., p. ciii) which once belonged to other buldings,
are much damaged. On the W. side is a much-defaced inscription
in honour of the Emp. Diocletian, placed here in 292 A.D. by a
Roman prefect named Posidius. The latest theory in regard to the
column, which may once have belonged to the Temple of Serapis,
is that it was erected here by the Emp. Theodosius to commemorate
the victory of Christianity and the destruction of the Serapeum
CnLHonnb^. ALK.\ A M H;l \, :?. linutr. 17
(;}91 A.l). ; see p. 15). The present name ol" tlie [lillar is due to
the medi;eval belief that it marked the tomb of Poinpey the Great. —
To the N. of tlie pillar is an anoient water-basin, to the S. are two
sphinxes of red granite.
About 55 yds. to the W. of Pompey's Pillar 'are iXm ' Sublervanean
Passages of the Serapeum (p. 14; of little interest). We descend by a
tlitiUt of wooden steps into an open court, from the N. and S. corners of
which lonii passages are cut into the rock, with small niches of un-
known purport.
Continuing to follow tlie Rue do la Colonne Pompee and its pro-
longation, the Rue Karmous, a little farther, and then diverging to
the right by the Rue Bab el-Melouk, we pass the small mosque of
tianii' cl-Miri and reach the entrance (PI. 'E.'; F, 8) to the —
^Catacombs of Kom esh-Shuk&fa (Pi. F, 8 ; 'iiill of potsherds'),
lying on the 8. slope of a hill crowned by an abandoned fort and
now used as a quarry (open 8 a.m. till sunset; adm. 5 pias., June-
Sept. 3 pias,; combination-ticket, see p. 21). This burial-ground,
discovered in 1900, is the most important in Alexandria and prob-
ably dates from the 2nd cent. A. D. ; it is an admirable example of the
characteristic Alexandrian fusion of the Egyptian and Grseco-Roman
styles. -Modern flights of steps on the side of the hill lead to the old
entrance, which has been restored. The chambers lie in several
stories one above another. The main chambers seem to have belong-
ed to an Egyptian grandee, while round about are the smaller and
simpler vaults of his suite and dependents. The exploration of the
interior is facilitated by wooden bridges and electric light.
A WrxDiNc; St.viuc.\si-; (PI. A), with a large ciicular light-shaft,
descends into two stories of thi' catacouib, the lower of which is
generally under water; near the top of the staircase is a Sarco-
18 fioute 2. ALEXANDRIA. Cataroinhs.
PHAGUS Chambek (R) ot' later construction. From the entrance to
the upper floor (B), on each side of which is a semicircular re-
cess with benches, we enter a Rotunda ( C). In the middle of this,
covered by a kind of cupola, is a shaft leading to the lower stories.
To the right lie two Smaller Roors (D, E), with niches and sar-
cophagi. Above the latter are loculi or shelf-tombs. To the left
is the Triclinium Funebke (F), a large room with a ceiling borne
by four pillars. Three wide platforms or divans have been hewn
out of the rock for the banquets held in honour of the deceased. —
The Staircase (G), which commands a good view of the chief se-
pulchral chambers, divides farther down into two flights, flanking
the entrance to the lower story (H) and leading to the Vestibule (J)
of the grave-chamber proper.
The facade of the vestibule is articulated by two Egyptian col-
umns, with elaborate flower-capitals, which bear a cornice adorned
with the winged solar disk and with falcons ; above this is the flat
arch of the pediment. Inside, in deep niches to the right and left,
are Statuks of the deceased and his wife in Egyptian dress, carved
in white limestone. The door in the rear wall of the vestibule is
surmounted by the winged sun's disk and a Urjeus frieze. To the
right and left, on pedestals, are two large serpents with the Egyptian
double crown, the laduceus of Hermes, and the thyrsus of Diony-
sos. Above are shields with heads of Medusa.
We now enter the Sepulchral Chamber (K). The sarcophagi
containing the remains stand in niclies (a-c) and are hewn, like
their lids, out of the solid rock. The fronts are adorned, after the
Greek fashion, with festoons, masks, heads of Medusa, bucranla,
and bunches of grapes. On the middle one is a reclining figure of
the deceased. The walls of the niches are decorated with represent-
ations of religious import.
Cknteal Niche [a). Rear Wall: On a bier in the shape of a lion rests
the mummy, surrounded by Horus, Thout, and Anubis, the three sods
of the lowei- world; below the bier are three canopic vases. Left Wall:
On the right a priest of the dead, weaving a panther-skin, reads from the
book of ritxial; on the left the deceased is seen before an altar. Right
Wall: A priest of Isis sacrifices to the goddess. — Right Niche (b). Rear
Wall: King or emperor offering a collar to an Apis bull, protected by
the wings of Isis. Left Wall: King sacrificing to the deceased as Osiris.
Right Wall: Figures of two gods of the dead, one with the head of a cyno-
cephalus. — The representations in the Left Niche (c) are similar. — To
the ri^ht and loft of the donr are the dog-headed Auulds, as a warrior,
and a dog-headed da-mon with a serpent's body.
Round the sepulchral chamber runs a Gallery (L), entered from
the passage in front of the vestibule, with two rows of shelf-tombs
(91 in all). Each of these contained at least three mummies. The
names and ages of the deceased, in red paint, are still visible on
some of the slabs. — At the back of the gallery is a Sarcophagus
Chamber (M), with three tomb-niches and plain pillars. Adjoining
the W. part of the gallery are four L.iter Rooms (N-Q), with shelf-
tombs and sarcophagus-niches.
Greek Rock Tomb.^. ALEXANDRIA. 2. Route. 19
Close by is a Oi'aeco-Homan Catacomb of tbe 3i(i or 4tli cent. A.D., in
three stories (excavated in llllO). — Farther to the W. lie some other
tiimbs, of less interest and noi worth visiting.
The main portion of the Akar Quartkr lies on the ancient
Hcptastadium (p. 13), between the E. and the W. harbours. It con-
tains several bazaars. The chief thoroughfare is the Rue de France
(PI. E, F, 3, 4), wliich begins at the N.W. corner of the Place Me-
hemet Ali (p. J 5) and is prolonged by the Rue Masguid Terbana
and tlie Rue Ras et-Tin. The last diverges to the W. and inter-
sects the TuKKTsu Quarter (PI. C, D, 3), on what was formerly
the islaTid of Pharos (p. 13), with less narrow streets and pictur-
esque houses and gardens. Both these quarters present interesting
scenes of oriental life.
To the N. of the Rue Ras et-Tin, near the shore of the Bay of
Anfushi, lie two Greek Rock Tombs (PI. B, C, 3), dating from
ca. 200 B.C. PerniissioM to visit them must be obtained through
the museum ofliclals (p. '21).
Eastern Burial Place. IJy means of a fliglit of steps and a terraced
slope wc i-each a rectangular court (now uncovered) off which open two
tombs, each consisting of a l.irge vestibule and the tomb proper. The
ceilings consist of liarrel-vaulting;. The walls of the vestibule of the Eaxt
Tomb bear numerous Greek inscriptions and drawings, including a cleverly
sketched ship with a tower. In the rear wall of the sepulchral chamber is a
niche in the Egyptian style. The North Tomb is the tinest of all. The
walls of the vestibule terminate in a concave cornice and are painted to
imitate alabaster and black and white marble. The painting of the ceilinii
is intended to make it look as if divided into colTers. The ceiling of the
sepulchral chamber seems to have been painted with great taste; in front
of the niche in the rear wall is an altar of limestone. — Close by is the
Western Burial Place, which is very similar to that just described. The
vestibule of the iV''. Tomb served as a triclinium in which the banquet for
the dead was held. The tomb still contains its granite sarcophagus. In
the vestibule of the TV. Tomb arc three tombs of later date, constructed
of bricks. 1 he wall-paintiiigs here also imitate alabaster and limestone.
The Rue Ras et-Tin ends at tlie khcdivial Palace of Ras et-Tin
(PI. A, B, 3), a name signifying 'promontory of ligs'. The palace
contains nothing of interest and is not accessible. The Harem , a
separate building, is built on the model of the seraglio at Constan-
tinople. — The street skirts the N. side of the palace to the Light-
house (PI. A, 4; no adni.).
The best return-route to the Place Me'hemet All leads past the
Marine Arsenal (PI. C, D, 3), along the West Harbour (p. 11), and
through the Ruc> Moutouch Pacha, de la Marine, Bab el-Kar.isIa, and
Anastasi. To the left of the Rue de la Marine wc see the Fort
CafarcUi (PI. Pj, 5) or Fori Napoleon, with a signal-station.
A visit should be paid also to the new quays of the East Har-
bour (p. 11), which were constructed at a cost of £ E 374,000.
These have been converted into an attractive boulevard, called the
Quai-Promenado Abbas-Deux, on which is situated the Government
Building (PI. E, 3). To the N.W. of the harbour stands the
picturesque Fort Kait Bey (PI. D, E, 1) , on the site of the old
Pharos [,ighthouse (p. 13).
20 Route 2. ALEXANDRIA. ■ Nmha 'Umlen.
Another importunt thorouglifare is the Hue jje la Purte L)E
Rosette fPl. (J-1, 4, 3), the continuation of theRucSidi el-Metwalli,
leading to the E. from the centre of the city. It corresponds with
the E. half of the [ancient main street (p. 13) and leads past the
Municipal Buildiny to the former Porle de Rosette (PI. K, 3), on the
site of the ancient Canopic Gate. — On the top of the Kom ecl-Dik
(PI. H, I, 4; 115 ft. ; comp. p.43), to the S. of the Rne de la Porte de
Rosette, is the reservoir of the water-works. The water is pumped
up from the Farlcha Canal, a branch of the Mahmudiyeh Canal.
In the Rue Nobi Daniel, to the S. of the Rue dc la Porte do Ro-
sette, is a Mosque [PI. G, H, 4), with the tombs of Sa'id Pasha, Prince
Hassan, and other members of the khedivial family. — In the pro-
longation of the street towards the N. arc the Coptic Church of St.
Mark (PI. G, 4; 1.) and the handsome Synagogue (r.).
In the Rue d'Allbmagne (PI. II, I, 3; tramway No. 1, p. 9),
on the left, lie the Javish School, the German School, and the Kaiser
Wilhelni Heim (an asylum for old men). Farther on, on a height
adjoining the Jewish Cemetery, stands the Government Hospital
(p. 10). In the gardens in front of the hospital is the Omdurmdn
Column, an ancient granite column found in the ■vicinity and erect-
ed to commemorate the taking of Khartum (p. cxxv). On the base
are inscriptions in English and Arabic and two figures of Sekhmet,
the Egyptian lion-headed goddess of war. The gardens of the hospital
(men not admitted) contain antiquities excavated on the spot. On a
hill affording a view of the new harbour is the Victoria Column, also
found in this neighbourhood and named after Queen Victoria.
The Rue d'Allemagne goes on past a bronze monument to Nubar
Pa5ha, chief minister under the Khedive Ismail, to an old Nahlh or
cistern (key kept by^the gardener). Thence we continue to follow
the tramway-line, past some new gardens on the site of former forti-
fications and the Porte de Rosette (see above), and reach the —
RoND Point (PI. K, 3). Three streets radiate hence. To the
S.W. the Rue Menasce, with its continuation the Rue el-Rassafah,
runs to the Mahmudiyeh Canal (p. 12), On the S.E. the Rue Sign
el-Hadra leads to the German Deaconesses' Hospital (p. 10) and the
Prisons (PI. L, 4). The Rue Palais No. 3 or Rue Sara'i (tramway No. 5,
p. 10), to theE. of the Rond Point, runs through the suburb of Hadea,
with its ancient necropolis, to t]ia'*Nuzha Garden (with cafe; band),
an attractive public resort on the Mahmudiyeh Canal covering about
90 acres, with a small zoological collection and hot-houses (adm. to
tlie latter 1 pias.). Close by lies the Antoniadis Garden, with an an-
cient rock-tomb; adm. on application at No. 7, Rue de I'Eglise Deb-
bane (PI. E, G, 4; at the back). We may return to the city either
along the highly picturoS(|ue canal, which is flanked on the right by
villas and gardens, and via the Rue Karmous (p. 17), or across the
Champs Elystes (PI. L, 5; tramways Nos. 2 & 7, see pp. 9, 10) and
via the Rue Moharrem Bey (PI. L-H, 5).
Museum ALEXANDRIA. i>. Route. 21
III tin; IxiK Du MusBK, wliicb diverges to the N. from tlie Hue de
la Porte de Rosette (p. 20), rises an edifice in tlie Greeli style,
accoinniodatiiig the — ■
'■Museum of Grseco-Eoman Antiquities (PI. H, 3, 4), founded
by Dr. G. BoLli (d. 1903), an Italian, with the cooperation of the
Athenaeum Society nnd the municipal authorities. The museum
soon attained considrrablc importance. Most of the contents are of
Alexandrian origin, but some were transferred hither from the Cairo
Museum. The objects found in Alexandria were generally brouglit
to light cither in digging for old stones for building houses (a com-
mon practice here) or in the course of excavations. Most of them
come from tlie extensive catacombs constructed on the outskirts of
the ancient city. The importance of the collection lies in the bistori-
<;al significance of these intrinsically somewhat unimpressive remains.
The museum is open daily, except on I'hurs. from June to Sept.,
9-12 and 3-5.30 (adm. in winter 2, in summer 1 pias.; ticket- office
at PI. 29, p. 22). Combination-tickets (8 pias.) are issued, in winter
only, for the Museum, I'ompey's Pillar, and Kom esh-Sliukafa.
Hand-cameras are allowed. Director, Prof. E. Breccia.
From tlie Vestibule (PI. A) we Lave a view of the statue of Hercules
in the transverse gallery (p. 24) connecting the two main wings of the
museum. In the side-room on the left (PI. '28) is a topographical collection,
with plans of ancient and modern Alexandria, photogr.tphs, drawings, etc.
of Alexandrian monuments. — On the right is —
Room 1. Christian Antiquities. Two line capitals of columns from
Alexandria. Xos. 1-14. Tombstones of monks of a convent at Alexandria
(Ed-Dukheileh). dating from the 6th century. 15-226. Or^eco-Ch^istian and
l.'optic tombstones, chiefly from Upper Egypt , with handled or ausated
crosses ('the sign of life'; couip. p. 114), peacocks, palms, and other decora-
tions; the inscriptions often close with the words 'be not sad; no one on
the earth is iinmortar. 227-251. Architectural fragments of the Christian
period. — Fftnne! A-C: Coptic textiles from Akhmim and Antinoe. — In
the Cases: Terracotta lamps; vessels. Cases G and G': Flasks for boldini
miracle-working water from the tumb of St. Menas the martyr (p. 28). Be-
tween the two cases: 240. Marble relief of St. Menas, standing between two
kneeling camels, from Ed-I)ukheileh. — In the centre: Magnificent sar-
copbagus-)id of porphyry; Christian mummies.
Booms 2-5 contain the collection of Alexandrian Coins. The coins of
the period of Alexander the Great and the Ptolemies are in E. 5; those
from .Augustus to Alexander Severiis in R. 2; those from .Alexander Severus
to Diocletian in R. 4 (Salle Glymenopoulos); and those from Diocletian to
the conquest of Alexandria in R. 3. Tomb-inscriptions from Tehna , the
ancient Acoris (p. -08); 116. Coptic inscription. Case A contains Byzantine
gold coins found in a small vase at Shatbi (p. 25), and also 13 live-
drachma pieces, fnrming part of the treasure trove of Tukh el-Karamus
(p. 99) and dating from the reigns of the lirst two Ptolemies. — In Room 4:
Large vase adorned with (ish and birds, from Terenuthis; tombstones from
Tehna. 0. Colossal seated figure of a woman, with a girl beside her, a
grave-monument. — We return to the vestibule and thence proceed straight
on into —
Boom 6, GuKF.K and Latin Insckii'Tioss, Paitui. and Tomustones.
To the right: 18-146. Votive and memorial inscriptions of the Ptolemaic
period; Ptolemaic tombstones with inscriptions and representations resem-
bling Attic tombs of the Uh cent., with small pediments, the enclosed space
being sometimes coloured, sometimes occupied by reliefs, sometimes merely
with name' in red paint; 83. Tombstone with a dying woman attended
22 Route 2.
ALEXANDRIA.
Museum.
by her two daughters; 87. Tombstone wiih rtilief of a seated woman;
88. Tombstone with two women from Pisidia; 97. Tombstone with seated
figure of an old man; l.TO. Relief from the tombstone of a boy, represented
as carryiug a goose and playing with his little dog; 96. Tombstone of a
soldier named l.ycoincdea. — To the left: 1-18, 146-303. Votive and memorial
inscriptions, military dii>lomas (176, 177), and tombstones of the Roman
period. — In the middle: 305. Lar^e scarabeeus in pink granite, from the
Serapeum (p. 14); Sphinx with the name of Haremhcb (p. cii), also from
the Serapeum; o(51. Life.sizc figure of .Apis in granite, found in the Sera-
peum, witli dedication to
Serapis by Kmp. Hadrian
(on small pillar below);
347. Kneeling figure of
Ramses U., dedicating a
vase to the god Atum of
Ileliopolis — The Desk
t'ltses contain papyri of
the Ptolemaic and Ro-
man periods.
Room 7. Egtptian
Antiquities. In the
centre: 369. Colossal sta-
tue in pink granite of one
of the Pharaohs, after-
wards usurped by Ram-
ses II., with an incised re-
lief of his Consort at the
side, from Abukir. 361,
363. Two sphinxes of
Amenemhet from Abu-
kir, afterwards usurped
by Ramses II. for a
liuilding of hia own. 417.
Bust of Ramses II., from
Abukir. 376. Capital of a
sistrum-column (p. clxi),
with fine heads of Hathor.
Room 8 (continuation
of the Egyptiag. collec-
tion). 885,386-389. Wood-
en coffins from the com-
mon tomb of the priests
of Anion in Deir el-Bahri
(p. 305); 383. Mummy'of
a late - Egyptian period.
— '380. Fine bas-relief
« •? —B^ ^..^»^_-_- g°j];i Qf j.jjg Saite period, with
a man (1.) in a (lowing
robe, a harper, and singing- women. 378, 379, 381-383. Limestone coffins
in the shape of mummies, from Upper Egypt.
Boom 9 (continuation of the Egyptian collection). 407. Seated figure oi
the lion-headed goddess Sekhmet, erected by Amenophis III. in the temple
of Mut at Karnak (p. 280); 415. Bust of a priest; 426. Granite statue of
Ramses II. ; 420. Pillar from the temple of Atum in Heliopolis, with names
and representations of Ramses II., found in Alexandria. — In the Table
Case in the centre: Mummy-masks, garlands, head-rests (one with the head
or the god Bes), sandals, etc., from Deir el-Bahri.
Room 10 (Salle Antoniadis). Smaller Egyptian Sculptukes. 460. Sacri-
licial stone, from Abu.sir near Samaniid. — Case C: Bronze, wooden, and
f:iyence figures of deities and sacred animals (Osiris ; Thout; Ptah; Patsekes,
p. 100; Nefertem; Anubis; Apis; etc.). — Case AA: Sacred falcons, cats,
and cyuocephali ; figures of deities (Imhotep; Sekhmet; Bastet); gilt UrsEus-
snakes. — Case E: Figures of deities. Hieratic and demotic papyri. —
Museum. ALEXANDRIA. 2. Route. 23
(Jase U: Alabaster vases; canopic vase^. — Casi: BB: Bronze ligures of
deities (Isis; Neith; Amon; llarpocrates ; etc.); folding chair with heads of
geese. — I'ase L: Ushebtis (p. cxlviii) in fayence. — Tahle Case 0: Scarahaei,
amulets, and rings in fayencf. — Table Case P: Siuall vases from Rhode?
and Cyprus; gold ornaments of the Ptolemaic, Roman, and Uyzantine
periods (armlets, necklaces, rings, and earrings). — (In the right, Plaster
cast of the statue of (^ueen Amenertais (museum of Cairo, p. 8S).
Room 11. (!i:.Eco-E«ri"TiAN and Roman-Egyptian Antiquitiks. 3192
et seij., Statues of a late period, prohably representin;;; priests, some of them
with names (Peteeais, Ptolimy, Iremeus). '3704. Good portrait- head in
black basalt. — In frames on the right wall: 3180 et seq.. Remains of wall-
paintings found near Pompey's Pillar, interesting as forerunners and analogies
of the Pompeian style, and like No. 3185 (Tomb -painting from Gabbari),
showing a mixture of the (ire:k and Egyjjtian styles. 23. Fine portrait of
a Roman ; 3163. Bas-relief with the portrait of one of the Ptolemies. — On
the left wall; 11-lG. Relief with a representation of Horus with the falcon's
bead (1.) and of .another deity (r.). from a temple of the Ptolemaic period
at Athribis (Benha, p. 34).
Room 12. PoKTKAiT Bdsts and Smaller Scdlptukes. In the centre:
Marble statue of a Roman emperor; a figure on the lower part of the
armour has been effaced in the Christian period and replaced by the
monogram of Christ. — 2. Head of a boy; 3. Roman woman; 1. Charming
head of a child from Kom esh-Shukafa; 16. Head of a youth, of the Attic
school of the 4th cent. B.C.; 17. Alexander the Gre:\t(?) in red granite
18. Julius Csesar; 19. Cleopatra; "45 (3908). Ideal head of a woman. — Case A :
Small sculptures, heads of women; 10-12. Busts of Ptolemaic princesses;
20. Faun. —^32, 32a (3337, 3339). Busts of men, from Suk el-Wardian
(near Wardiian, p. 26); 33. Colossal head of Alexander IV. (V) in the royal
Egyptian headgear; 60. Colossal head of Ptolemy IV. in Egyptian costume,
with the double crown. — Case B : ''20-24. Small busts of Alexander ; pleasing
marble heads of women and others; below, Statuettes of Venus. — '^'BB.
Head of Hercules in marble, thought now to be Zeus (the hair in a sep-
arate piece).
Room 13. ScuLBTURES AND Architectural Fragments. 1. Statue of an
emperor; 3. Small Egyptian naos from Hadra. — 4-7. Draped statuettes
(No. 5 from Gabbari, p. 26).
Room 14 (continuation of the preceding collection). 3661. Torso of the
marble statue i it' a philosopher; sphinxes; 15-17. Elegant composite Qower-
ciipitals, found at Alexandria in the Rue d'AUemagne (p. 20).
Room 15 (continuation of the above collection). 29, 50. Frescoes from
(omlis at Gabbari. — Rnuud the room are architectural fragments and
.small altars from tombs at Gabbari, made of Meks limestone and executed
in the mixed Greek and Egyptian style, some of very fine workmanship.
The .same style is shown in Nos. 2 and '3, brightly painted capitals (in
which the Egyptian papyrus motive is used) from the quarter of the palace
of the Ptolemies.
Room 16. Sculptures. 62 (3930). Arm bearing a globe, probably par
of a colossal statue of an emperor, from Benha. — On the left wall: 32.
Fragment of a statue of Zeus(?) found in the East Harbour (p. 11) and
notable for its draiieries and colouring; 40. Colossal seated marble figure
of Zeus-Serapis; 39, 41. Colossal heads of Zeus-Serapis ; 52. Roman head;
14. Apollo on the omphalos; on two granite columns are fine Ionic capitals ;
51. Recumbent tomb-figure of a Roman, from Abukir. — In the centre : Two
baths; B. Colossal eagle. — By the right wall: 7(3S6S). Maenad; 13. Nymph;
17. Venus. — By the door-posts at the entrance to the following room:
3895, 389j. Sleeping genii.
Room 17. Small Oujects op Art. Cases A and B are temporarily
filled with oli.jects discovered in the tombs of Shatbi, and Gritco-Egyptian
ligures of deities from Ibrahimiyeh (p. 25). — To the right and left of the
entrance: Cases C and E. Fine glass bottles, including dark-blue specimens
with veins of yellow and white. — 2312. Helmet. — In the centre: R, JT, J'T.
Mummies with portraits of the deceased painted on wood (2nd cent. A.D.);
mummies of various periods. — Case QQ. Cobjured plaster masks of
Baudkker's Egypt. 7lh Edit. 2
24 Route 2. ALEXANDRIA. Museum.
the Roman iicriod (2nd cent. A. 1).); 2319. Fine hrad cif a youtli fiom
Gabbari. — obis, 4, 4i'is. Green fayence vessels from a tomb at Gabbari. —
Table Case BR. lironze mirrors; objects in gold and silver, gems, and
glass. — On the walls: 5334. Colossal porphyry statue, often taken for a
figure of Christ ; marble sarcophagus with scenes in relief from the story
of Ariadne. — Cases A and SB. Cinerary urns from Iladra, apparently,
to judge from the inscriptions, of Greek mercenaries in the service of
the Ptolemies.
Koom 18. Ceramics and Objects from Tombs. Terracotta flgure.s of
the Roman period, especially flgutes of gods, which seem to have served
as images of saints in the houses of the common people. — Case -ff. Baubo
and Bes. — Cetse I. Women with tymbals and baskets. — Cases M, D, and
Z. Harpocrates (Ihe youthful Horus , identified by the side-lock and the
finger on the lips), often represente<l as riding on animals. — Case EE.
Isis. — Case GG. Cupid and Venus. — Case HE. Heads of Venus. — Case V.
Charioteer (368); animals; 836. Frog seated on a fish and playing on a lyre
(burlesque of Arion on the dolphin i. — Case B. Figures from comedy, etc.
— Cases F and ^f. Terracottas of the Ptolemaic period, from tombs near
Alexandria; fragments of 'terra sigillata' (Aretine vases). — Case 0. liarly
Ptolemaic terracottas. The -'Figures of girls are distinguished by deli-
cacy of execution and colouring, and some of them (e. g. one with a lute)
rival the best Tanagra figurines. — Fragments of a red glazed plaque with
the head of 'Africa and gladiators fighling with wild beasts. — On the
floor: 'Jlosaics from a temple at Abukir (p. 30).
Room 19. 'Mosaic and cinerary urns from Sliatbl (p. £5).
Room 20. On.iECTS FROM To.MBS. In the middle : Torsos of a fine group
of Dionysos and the Fann, executed under the influence of the school of
Praxiteles. — Cases A and B. Greek vases and terracotta figures.
Room 21. In a covered Glass Case: Objects from tombs; sepulchral
wreaths in terracotta and gilded bron/.e. — Case A. Terracotta figures and
vases from the excavations at Ibrahimiyeh (p. 25). — Case B. Similar
objects from Shathi.
Room 22. Fragments from Canoi'us (p. 30). Mosaic of warriors sur-
rounded by griffins; on the walls, architectural fragments. — We return
to R. 17 and there turn to the left into the —
Transverse Gallery (PI. 13). '8. Colossal seated marble figure of Her-
cules. A side-room (PI. 27; adm. by special permission only) contains copies
and articles not adapted for public exhibitioii.
In the Garden (PI. 24) : Two sphinxes of Apries (p. ovi), originally erect-
ed at lleliopolis; 24. Colossal head of Antonius as Osiris, from Hadra ;
4-7. Tomb monuments from Shatbi; I^arge limestone, granite, and marble
sarcophagi from Abukir, Hadra, Kom esli-Shukafa, and other idaces; Ptol-
emaic tomb with a large sepulchral bed and remains of painting, from
Suk el-Wardian (near Wardian, p. 26). — On the other side of the trans-
verse gallery are some reconstructions of Hellenistic and Roman tombs
(PI. 25 and 26).
3. Environs ov Alkxaniuiia (Ramleh, Meks).
From Alexandria to Ramleh the best route is by the Electric Tram-
way starting at the N. end of the Rue Missalla (PI. G, 3; from 5.30 a.m.
till 1 a.m.; ist cl. fare 2 pias., book containing 50 tickets 75 pias.). The
'Service Palais' (every 8 min.) runs on the N. line, the 'Service Bacos' (every
41/2 min.) on the S. line (diverging from each other at Bulkeley, see p. 26).
The journey takes about V2 hr. — The railway (AbukirRosetta line, p. 30)
is of practically no use to tourists.
From the starting-point we have a flue view of the E. Larbour;
projecting into the sea, to the left, is tlie small Fort iSUsUeh(F\. H, 1).
The line runs parallel with the quay ; on the left is the Lyce'e Fran-
^•ais, on the right the large buildings of the Greek orphanage and
Environs.
ALEXANDRIA.
:'. Koiile. 25
the Greek school. The first stopping-place is Shalbi {Chatby; PI. 1,
2), beyond whicli we pass the Jewish, Christian, and Arab cemeteries.
— Near the station of Chathy-lrs-Baim (PI. K, 1), to the left, on the
shore, are sea-baths and an ancient necropolis, the tombs of which
belong mostly to the early-Ptolemaic period (intending visitors must
be provided M-ith a permit from Prol'. l>reccia, p. 21). We now
traverse the rubbish-heaps of the ancient Alcopoif's (p. 13), the large
E. suburb of Alexandria founded by Augnstus on the site of his
Wagner i Deljes, Leipag
liiial victory over the adlierents of Antony (station. Camp de Cesar;
PI. K, l),and reach the suburban station oi Ihrdhlrrilijehi Ihrahimia),
with a Greek-Orthodox church and numerous villas. Near here is a
Grzeco- Jewish necropolis of the 3rd cent. B.C.
The next stations are Sporting Club (a British club with a race-
course) and Cleopatra; on the right are the Lake of Hadra and the
broad expanse of Lake Mareotis. Beside the station of S7di Oaber (a
station on the railway to Cairo, p. 31, at which the Abuktr-Rosetta
line, p. 30, diverges) is (I.) a mosque, built by the present Khedive
over the tomb of the Mohammedan saint Sidi Gaber.
The track now runs parallel with the road from Alexandria-
Stat. Moustapha Pacha. On an eminence to the left are the remains
of a chateau built by Isma'il Paslia, now used by the British mili-
26 Route -2. RAMLEH. Environs
tary authorities, and barracks for British troops (parade servico in
the garrison church of St. George at 1 1 a.m.). The builuing- material
for the cliateau was taken from the ruins of the Kasr el-Kaydsereh
('Cast)e of CiBsar'), an old fortifled Roman camp in the vicinity. —
The attractive villas of Ramleh begin at Carifon, (Carlton Hotel. PI. a,
A 2, pens. :'iO-60pias.) and Bulkeley. The latter, which contains the
English church of All Saints [Vl. A, 1 ; Rev. H. T. Valentine; services
at 8.30, 11, «fc 6.30 ), is named, like most of the following stations,
after one of the promoters of the railway.
Ramleh (i.e. 'sand') is the favourite summer-resort for well-to-
do Alexandrians and Cairenes; in winter it is not so attractive to
tourists. The N. line (p. 24) runs via Saha Pacha, Gljimenopoulos
(New Victoria Hotel, Pi. b, B 1 , pens. 40 pias.), Mazloum Pacha,
and Zizinia to San Stefano and then via Laurem and past the palace
of the present Khedive s mother (no almission) to the terminus at
Victoria College. The Litter, o|iened in 1909, was founded by public
subscription in 1901 in memory of Queen Victoria, to provide a
liberal erlucation on the lines of the English public schools. — The
S. line runs to the right via Fleming (Hot. Miramare, PI. c, B 2,
Italian), Bacos, Se/fer, Schulz (Hot. de Plaisance. PI. d, C 1, pens.
8-12 fr.), and Uianaclis, and reaches its terminus at San Stefano.
Bacos, the central part of Ramleh, has a bazaar, a mosque, and a
Roman Catholic diurch and school. Near San Stefano, on the shore,
are the * Hotel- Casino San Stefano (PI. B, C, 1 ; owned by the
George Nungovich Co., see p. 35; pens. 60-100 pias.), with garden,
terrace, sea-baths, theatre, and concert-rooms (adm. 5 pias.), the
Hotel Beau-Riuage (PI. e, C 1 ; pens. 50-70 pias., good), with flue
garden, the Hotel Bagdad (PI. f; B, 1), the Villa Margherita (PL g,
C 1 ; pens. 40-50 pias.), and the New Victoria Hotel.
From Alexandiua to Miiics: Electiii; tramway from Gabbari in connec-
tion with Line Ko. 1 on p. 9, eveiy 10 min. in 25 min. (fares 10, 5 mill.).
From the suburb of Gahhari (PL C, D, 8) the electric tramway
runs to the S.W. by tlie Route du Meks, traversing the hilly Necro-
polis of the imperial period (p. 13). On the left are the gardens,
the picturesque mosque, and the palace of Gahhari, the last now
a Quarantine or lazzaretto. A number of interesting tomb-chambers,
called Baths of Cleopatra, are cut out of the limestone of the
coast-hills. — Farther on we pass through the Arab village of War-
didn; to the right is the slaughter-house , to the left the starting-
point of the Maryiit railway (p. 27).
Meks or Me.v, the terminus of the tramway, is visited for sea-
bathing. On the beach are several hotels, the Nuovo Casino Restaur-
ant, and the Bab el- Arab ('Beduin Gate'), part of the old fortifica-
tions. Farther to the S.W. are the quarries mentioned on p. Isviii.
of Alexandria. ^ AMRIYEH. l\ Route. 27
4. Makeotis District (City oi- St. Menas, Akusir).
An excursion <o the Marcotis district, intinefting both for its scenery
and history, is rccinnniended, especially in Feb. and Ularch, when the
desert flora is S('i;n at its best. A visit to the ruins of Abusir takes a
whole day, imluding the Jonrnoy tliere and back; furtlie City of St. Menas
two days arc required, but Abu.sir may lie included on the way back. The
point of departure fur both places is Behiff, a. station on the JfAKYOr Light
Railway, a private line belonging to the Khedive (Daira K/iassa), which
starts at Wardidn (p. 20). From Alexandria we may either take the
electric tramway from the Place Mi'hcmet Ali to the station of Wardian
and go by the early train thence (2hrs.; fares 2'J, 11 pias.), or go direct
from the Gare du Oaire (p. 9) by tlie forenoon express (I'/s In-.; 29V2,
15 pias.). As ridina;-aninials cannot be procured at Behig, the traveller
must brin? a donkey with lilm from Alexandria, or must arrange with the
police officer at Kehig or with the Ma'miir of Ainriyeh (see below) to have
a horse or donkey (for an extended tour a camel ; 15-20 pias. per day and
fee) sent to meet him; in the latter case a recommendation from the com-
mandant's office in Alexandria or from a consul is necessary. — From
Behig to the (!ity of St. Menas 2 hrs., to Abusir ca. I'/a hr. The night is
.spent in the rest-house near the City of St.Menas (key at the Jluseum in
Alexandria), at the police-station ofBehig (recommendation from the com-
mandant, soe above), or in tents. The visitor should be furnished with
pruvisions, water, and candles.
lIisroKY. To the S. of the narrow strip of sand on which Alexandria
stands there has lain from time immemorial a large inland sheet of water,
uameil by the ancients Lake Mare.otis or Martia (Arab. Belieiret ifaryiit).
The lake lies 8 ft. below the level of the sea and was connected with the
Xile by navigable channels through which the products of Egypt were
brought (oAlexandria. In the lake lay eight island.s, covered with luxurious
country-houses; its banks were exuberantly fertile, and its white wines are
celebrated by Horace and Virgil. In the middle ages the lake dried up.
r>uring the siege of Alexandria in ISOl the British cut through the dunes
at Abukir. The sea at once rushed in, destroying 150 villages, and it still
covers "about 77 sq. 31., although Jloliammed AH (p. 15) spared no cost to
win back the land for cultivation. The present Khedive also is doing his
utmost by a carefully planned system of agriculture to improve the arable
roast-plain, which extends on the W. into the Libyan Desert. The district
is mainly inhabited by I'.eduins, living partly in small villages and partly
in tents, who trade in camels and raise sheep. Among the grain-crops
barley flourishes with especial success; vineyards and orchards have also
been again planted.
'I'lie Maryut railway (see above), starting at Wardian. runs
along tlie N. bank of Lake Mareotis, with the houses of Meks (-p. 26)
to the right. Tiie lirst station is (2 M.) Me.v Junction, with the large
factory of the Egyptian Salt & Soda Company; the connecting-line
from Alexandria (coinp. above) joins ours on the left. — The train now
runs to the S. along an enibankment (2^/4 M. long I througli the lake,
then turns to the W. and traverses cultivated land to (0 M.) Mergheb,
a small Beduin settlement. — IOV2 M. 'Abd el-Kdder; above the
village stands the small mosque dedicated to the saint of tliat name.
— 121/2 -^'- Amrhjeh (Amria), with pretty gardens and a villa of the
Khedive, is tlie headqtiarters of the >!a'mta-, the liighest police offi-
cial in the Mareotis. Tlie Beduin market held here on Wednesdays
presents an animated scene, when camels, horses, grain, etc., are
offered for sale; it is especially interesting in Dec, Jan., and Feb.,
when the date caravans arrive from the oasis of Siweh (p. 378). —
28 Route 2. CITT OF ST. MENAS. , Pmv irons
I0I/2 M. Second Mariout, with vineyards. J""arther on wo pass
through cultivated land and desert. — 21 M. Hawarhjeh (Hawaria).
26V2 M. Behig (Bahig), where we leave the train.
Fkom Bkhig to the City of St. Menas, 7'/2 M- — From the
station we ride to the S.E. across the railway emhankment to (^/^ M.)
the Bir 'Eseili, a deep cistern witlt good drinking-water, at which
the P.eduins water their herds of camels. Close hy are a few houses
and a small school. Proceeding to the iS.E. we ascend an eminence
from whicli we have a pretty view of P>ehig, of Gebel Batn (con-
cealing the sea), and of Ahusir. Farther on our route passes be-
tween fields of grain till the plateau on the edge of the desert is
reached and the hills of the City of St. Menas appear.
The City of St. Menas, called harm Abum or Bu Mna (i. e. Karm
Abu M7na) hy the Rodnins, lies in the Mareotic Desert, about half-
way between Alexandria and the Wadi Natrun. St. Menas (d. 296
A.D.), who was looked upon as a kind of patron-saint of the fabyan
Desert, was buried here, and in Christian times his tomb was a fav-
ourite place of pilgrimage, whence the pilgrims carried away clay
flasks filled with its wonder-working water (so-called Menas flasks).
The extensive site was re -discovered and successfully excavated in
1905-7 by Monsignor Carl Maria Kaufniann ; comp. 'Three Years in the
Libyan De'iert' by /. C. En-ctld Falls, tran^l. by KHz. Lee (L;mdon, 1913; 15s.).
The objects discovered among the ruins are in the museums nf Alexandria
and Frankfort.
The great P>.vsilica of Arcauius, the building oif which was
begun by that emperor (P)95-408) and completed by the Patriarch
Timothy, forms the central point of the ancient city, the streets and
houses of which are clearly distinguishable. The church, which is
orientated with great exactitude , is built on the early-Christian
cruciform plan. It consists of nave, aisles, and transept supported
by 06 columns and adjoined on tlie E. by an apse or chancel, 36 ft.
in width. The transept, 164 ft. long and 66 ft. wide, has a small
apsidal recess at each end; in the centre stand four columns, for-
merly bearing a canopy and marking the site of the altar. Access
is obtained from the apse into some vaulted tomb-chambers. The
chief entrance (atrium), consisting of three portals, is in the S.
aisle, and there are other entrances at the beginning of the N. aisle
and In the N. transept. A number of other rooms, subterranean
tomb-chambers, corridors, and cellars adjoin the aisles. — At the
W. end of the basilica stands a tower-like building, the main apse
of the original Burial Church of St. Menas, of earlier date. This
consists of a basilica, 125 ft. long and 74 ft. broad, with nave and
aisles each terminating in an apse. The whole is built over an exten-
sive crypt lying 26 ft. below and reached by a broad flight of marble
steps. — Close by the burial church, on the W., is an octagonal
Baptistery, with a baptismal piscina in the middle.
On the outer circumference of the town, in the midst of a ceme-
tery on the N., stands another Basilica, with apse, prothesis, diaco-
of Mciiindria. AHUSIK. -J. Route. 29
uicum (sacristy), aud uumeious other chambers, including an elegant
baptistery adjoining the right aisle. — In various quarters of the
town are several potteries and kilns, in which the clay flasks for
pilgrims (comp. p. 28) were made. Among the other secular build-
ings are some cisterns and an early-Christian hospice (with baths).
To visit the Wadi NatrO.v (p. 32) from the City of St. Menas 2-3 days
are required ; the ride to the edge of the valley takes 1/2 day. Guides
(15 pias. per day): Sheikh Sidi Sadaui, at Amriyeli (p. 27) ; Aloani Hamed,
at Behig; Sheikh Muftah Dabun, near the City of St. Menas. Camels,
see p. 27; besides the riding -cameH a camel to carry water is necessary.
The camp should be pitched near Bir Hooker, the terminus of the light
railway fmm Khatalheh (p. 32 1. — For the salt-lii!<es and convents,
coinp. p. 32.
FaoM IiehIg to Ar.u.siii, 5 M. — From the station we ride in a
N. direction to tlic prettily situated village of Belug and thence to
the N.W. across deserts and fields to (ca. I'/olir.) *Abusir, the
ruins of the ancient Taposiris Magna. The remains of this town,
which lay on the plain, are very scanty. The Egyptian Te^Q'LE,
however, situated on a limestone ridge rising from the seashore, is
in good preservation as far as its enclosing walls are concerned. To
judge from the Greek name of the place, it was probably dedicated
to Osiris. The sanctuary lay from E. to W. and was entered by a
handsome pylon, which, like the rest of the walls, is built of blocks
of limestone. In the interior of each of the two towers is an ancient
stairway; from the top we enjoy a magnificent *View of the blue
sea, the desert, and the fertile land in the distance. The pylon is
adjoined by the temple, which was surrounded by lofty walls and
had a length of 295 ft. The rooms in the interior are destroyed. —
A few minutes to the N. of the temple lie the ruins of a Totocr,
probably a lighthouse of the Roman period. The rocks in the neigh-
bourhood contain many quarries and Roman tombs, and near the
temple a bath has been excavated which deserves a visit.
The Railway runs on from Behig to (B.'Ji/a M.) Gherbamyat,
with extensive deposits of gypsum, and (401/0 ^^-^ Hammdm {i.e.
'bath'), where the caravans from the W. renew their supply of water.
Next comes a lonely region. — 45'/2 ^r. Rouessdte ( Ilueisat). — Near
(53 M.) El-Omaied (Amtid) the last lighthouse on the Egyptian coast
is visible on the right; on the left rises the hill of I'mia el-'Aish
(475 ft.). — Beyond El-Omaied the line intersects a desert tract that
stretches for 31 miles. 671/0 M. Alamein. 85 M. 'Abd er-Rahmdn ;
on the hill rises the conspicuous tower of the mosque (view) ; on the
right lies tlie sea. — 9IV2 M. Ghazal. — 1021/) M. Ed-Daba', the
ancient Zepliirium, was the last station of the railway in 1913. The
line is being prolonged via (I291/2 M.) BTr Fuka and S7di el-Haygag
to Mirsn Matruli, a seaport (spongc-flsherles) witli a new mosque
and a Greek church. This was the ancient Paraetonium, whence
Alexander the Great marched to the oasis of Jupiter .\mmon (p. 378).
From Mirsa .Matruh it is intended to carry on tlie railway via Sidi
berani to Solium., which was occupied by Egypt in 1911.
30 Route -2. ItOSKTTA.
5. Excursion to Abukir and Kosetta.
Railway to (44 M.) Roseita in 2'/i-23/i hrs. (two trains daily; fare
34 pias.); to Abukir in 45-47 min. from Sidi Gaber (fare 4 pias. ; day re-
turn-ticket 6 pias.)- — Tliose who wish to combine a visit to tbe temple
of Serapis at Abukir with the excursion to Rosetta fhould take the first
train in the morning from Sidi Gaber to Mamura and go on thence by
the next train to Roseita (see below).
As far as (4 M.) Stdl Gaber (p. 25) the train follows the line to
Cairo (p. 31), from which it then diverges to tlie left, passing the
various stations at Uamleli (conip. p. 20) and afterwards crossinK
the desert. 10 M. El-Mandara, the ancient Taposiris Pcirva; '^j^ M.
to the S. rises the lull of KCnn ct-Tcrbdn. commanding an exten-
sive view. — 103/4 M. Montaza, with a khedivial cliateau. The train
now skirts the edge of the fertile region. — I21/2 M. Mamura, the
junction for Abukir and Rosetta (to the Serapis Temple, see helow).
14'/2 M. Abukir or Alu Qir (Santi's AdmiraL Nelson Hottl), a vil-
lage with a shallow harbour, has become a favourite summer-resort
and contains the villas of many rich Alexatidrians. It is famous for
the 'Battle of the Nile' (Aug. ist, 1798), in which the British fleet
under Nelson signally defeated tlie French, destroying thirteen of
their seventeen vessels. On July 2oth, 1799, Bonaparte repulsed the
Turkish army here ; and on March 8th, 1801, Sir IJalph Ahercromby
defeated the remnants of the French army and compelled the eva-
cuation of Egypt (comp. p. 27).
On the shore of the semicircular bay of Abukir are several small
forts, and on the promontory rises a lighthouse.
Abukir is probably the ancient Bukiris. — In the vicinity lay the
ancient city ofCanopus, a favourite resort of the Alexandrians, who there
celebrated the wildest orgies. The resemblance of the name to that of
Canobus or Canopu^, the helmsman of Menelaus, gave rise to the Greek
tradition that that pilot was interred here. The most considerable ruins,
with remain'* of .sculptures, are to be found near the fort of Taufikiyeh,
on the W. Hurried travellers may follow the railway to Abukir from the
station of Mamiira (see above) for about -/a M. and then from the end of
the village (donkey obtainable) make straight for the fort. About 320 yds.
to the W. of the latter (1 M. to the W. of Abukir), in a hollow on an
estate belonging to Prince Omar Tussun, lie tlie remnants of a llonian
2'ctnple of Serapis, probably the famous sanctuary of this god fit Ganopus,
which was visited bv many pilgrims in search of health. For the Decree
of Cauopu?, see p. 8S.
18 M. El- Tarh. The train traverses the narrow neck of land be-
tween Lake Edku (area ca. 104 sq. M.) and the Mediterranean. —
21 M. El-Ma'dhjfh (Madia), near the former Canopic mouth of tiie
Nile. — 29 M. Edku ; the village lies to the left on a hill. — 06 M.
Bufdi (Boseill).
44 M. Rosetta (Hotel R'jyal), Arabic Rashul (a Coptic name),
with 14,300 inhab., almost exclusively Arabs, lies at the mouth
of the Rosetta arm of the Nile (Far' el-Gliarhi), the ancient Bolbitinic
arm (p. Ixvii). During the middle ages and in more recent times
its commercial prosperity was considerable, until the construction
of the Mabmudiyeh Canal (p. 15) diverted its trade to Alexandna.
DAMAN HL)R. 3. Haute. 31
Numerous antique marble columus are built into the houses. The
spacious Mosque ofSakhlun also is embellished with many mediifival
columns. At the S. end of the town, close to the river, lies the
Mosque of Mohammed el-'Ahbasi, with a tasteful minaret. An attrac-
tive excursion may be made to the Mosque of Abu Mandiir, to the
S. of the town, beside the river; Tisitors should go by boat if the
wind is favourable, otherwise by donkey (l/o lir-; 6 pias.). The hill
of the same name commands a fine view. — The fortifications to
the N. of the town are not shown except by permission of the com-
mandant. The famous Rosetta Stone [p. cxxvi) was discovered in
Fort St. Julien.
From Kosetta to Damietta via Lake Burlus, see p. 177.
From Rosetta the train returns to Bustli (p. 30) and thence runs
to tlie S.E. to (43Yi M.) Edfina. on the Rosetta arm of the Nile.
Hence a light railway runs via 'Atf to Damanhur (see p. 32).
3. From Alexandria to Cairo.
130 51. Kailwat (comp. p. xvii). Express train in 3-3'/'2) oi'dinary train
in 6-6-Vi lirs. (fares 88, 44 pias.). — Travellers sUouliI engage the commi.s-
.'ionnaire of the hotel or one of the tourist-agents (comp. p. 9.1 to assist in
booking their luggage. — The Alexandria and Cairo line, the first railway
constructed in the East, was made under .Sa'id Pasha in 18f>0.
The railway crosses the Farkha Canal (p. 20) and soon comes
into sight of Lake Marcotis (p. 27), the water of which washes the
railway-embankment at places during the period of the inunda-
tion. Beyond Hadra ( p. 20 ) and Sldi Gdher (p. 25) our line diverges
to the right from that to Rosetta (p. 30). "We cross the MahmiLdhjeh
Canal [p. 15) by a drawbridge, and the triangular sails of the boats
which appear above its banks enable its course to be traced for
quite a distance. Cotton-fields now appear to the left. — 17 M.
Kafr ed-Dawdr. In the vicinity are the ruins of Kom el-Gheh,
marking the site o(Schedia, the Nile-harbour of ancient Alexandria.
A LiGUT Railway diverging at Kafr ed-Dawar (two trains daily in each
direction) serves a number of villages on the W. m;ir\;in of the Delta and
rejiiins the main line at Damanliiir (see below).
We pass several unimportant villages, with the clay-built grey
houses, crowned by cupolas, which are so characteristic a feature
of the whole Delta landscape. — 28 M. Abu Jlommos.
38 m. Damanhtir (liujfet), with 38,752 inliab., was the ancient
Kgyptian Tinie-en-H'ir (city of llorus) and the Roman HermopoUs
I'arva. It is now the capital of the province of Beheireh (p. xlvii),
which extends from the Rosetta arm of the Nile to the Libyan desert.
The town lies on an eminence, with the towers of a church rising from
among its houses. In the vicinity are several small mills for the se-
paration of the cotton from the seeds. The Arab cemetery lies close
to the railway.
32 Route 3. WADI NA'l'RUN. From Alexandria
Fkom Damanhur to Meiiallet RCh, 46 M., railway in 2-2'/4 lirs. (fare 36
Bias.). — Beyond SanhUr and Rahmaniyeh (Jiahmania) the train crosses the
Rosetta arm of the Nile. — 13 M. Desiik (Desuq)^ a town with TOOOinhab.,
on the right bank of the Rosetta arm. A large fair (mulid) is held here
in Aug. or Sept. in honour of the local saint, Seiyid Ibrahim ed-Desiiki
(p. xcii), the fuunder of an order of dervishes. — Farther on we cross
several canals and pass the station of S/iahbds. — At Kalin (Kalline, Qallin)
diverges the branch-line for Sberbin (p. 175). — Then come Shin (Chine^
p. 33), Koti'ir (Qohir ; p. 33), and Konaisseh (Konayesseh. Konaiesa). — 46 M.
Mehallel R-Cth lies on the railway from Tanta to Jlansura (p. 174).
Damanhur is also the starting-point of several Light Railways: 1. To
Teh el-BdrHd (see below) via Dclingat and Tod (which are also connected
by another line). — 2. To Teh el-BdrHd via Shubrakhit (Hot. du Nil, kept
by a Greek; 2746 inhab.), on the Rosetta arm of the Nile (branch to Miniel
Saldme/i).^ and Shandid (see below). — 3. To Edjina (p. 31) via ZarkHn (Zarqun)
and 'At/. At 'Atf the MahmUdiyeh Canal (p. 1.5) diverges from the Nile ; and
on it barges and small steamers maintain communication with Ale.xandria.
The machines which here impel the waters of the Nile towards Alexandria
are very striking. — 4. To Kafr ed-Daicdr, see p. 31.
From Shubrakhit (see above) we may visit the ruins of Sd el-Hagar
(Sais, p. 33) by boat or on donkey-back in I-I1/2 hr. In the' latter case
we cross the Rosetta arm and follow the E. bank.
48 M. Saft el-MelUk. About 3 M. to the S.E., near NeMreh (Ne-
beirah), on the Canopic arm of the Nile, lie the ruins of Naucratis,
a Greek commercial city, founded by Amasis. The ruins do not
repay a visit.
531/2 M. Teh el-Barud (liai el-BaruiJ ; buffet) is a village with
a Ijrge mound of ruins.
Fkom Teh f,l-Bae6d to Cairo, 76 M., branch-railway along the W.
uiar;;in of the Nile delta in 3-3V4 hrs. (three trains daily). -^ Q'/i M. K6m
el-Hamddah; 14'^ M- Wdl'ed (Waged). To the right extends the Libyan
Desert. — Beyond (I9V2M.) Teiriyeh (Teiria) the train skirts the Khaldlbeh
Canal, which diverges from the Rosetta arm. — 31 M. Eafr DdOd, a vil-
lage with 3000 inhabitants. — 381/2 M. Khaldlbeh{\o Bir Hooker, see below). —
451/2 M Warddn. with 5000 inhabitants. The next stations are Aa«d (Qatto),
El-Afiindshi (p. 121 1, and Usitn (Onssime. Ausim), the imcient' LeiopnlU. —
Beyond (741/2 M.) Embdheh we cross the Nile to (76 M.) Cairo (see p. 143).
Light Railways run from Teh el-Barud to Damanhllr via Dclingat or
Shuhrakhii (see above) and to Ka/r 'Awdiieh via /Shandid (sec above).
From Khatdiheh (see above) a private railway of the Egyptian Salt &
Soda Co. lead.i to (34 M. ; 3 hrs.) Jiir Hooker, on the E. edge of the Wadi
Natrun ('Natron valley'). This valley (ca. 20 M. long) in the Libyan desert
contains ten salt lakes, which are supposed to be connected with the Nile
and which dry up almost entirely in summer. These lakes and the sur-
rounding soil yield salt and soda (natron), which are used in Egypt for
bleaching and in the manufacture of soap and glass. The Wadi Natrun
is celebrated for its hermitages and convents, which were established here
as early as the 4th cent, and had great influence in the development of
Christianity. Only four of them are still inhabited, and these are most
conveniently visited from Bir Hooker. Close to Bir Hooker are the Deir
es-Surydn ('convent of the Syrians") and, 10 min. from it, the Ueir Abu Bshoi
('convent of St. Pshoi') ; farther to the N. is the Deir Baramus., while the
Deir Abti Makdr ('convent of St. Macarius') lies at the S. end of the valley.
— From Bir Hooker to the City of St. Menas, see p. 29.
The line skirts an irrigation-canal of considerable size, an
offshoot of the Khatatbeh Canal (see above), from which numerous
small branches radiate. The fellahin may be observed raising water
from the canals by means of Archimedean screws or by large wheels
to ( airo.
TANTA. 3. lioule. 3o
(sakiyeli) hung with buckets or scoops ((;onip. p. Ixxii)- The cul-
tivated land becomes richer. Beyond Taupkiyeh(Taufiqia) the train
crosses the Khatatbeh Canal and an iron bridge over the Rosetta arm
of the Nile (fine view to the leftl, and reaches —
641/2-^1- Kafr ez-ZaA^kt (Buffet), on the right bank of the Nile.
The town (10,000 iuhab.) carries on a busy trade in grain, cotton,
and other products of the Delta, and contains large cotton-ware-
houses and mills for the separation of the cotton from the seeds.
A Light Railway, to the N. of the maiu line, runs from Kafr ez-Zaiyat
o Tanta via Bermd (9000 inhab. ; see below).
We cross several canals, enlivened by numerous ships.
76 -M. Ta,ntB.( Buffet). — Hotels. Huleldes Pyramides; UOt. Belle Gr'ece;
Dot. Kill- lUvi'al; Xew Hotel. The hotels send dragomans to meet the trains.
British ( 'ossular Agent, B. Ei ha. — Banks. Agencies of the Cridil Lyon-
nais, Anylo-£'jyptian Bank., national Bank of Egypt, and Deutsche Orienlbank.
Anglican Chikch SeevickS in winter.
Tanta, on the Kased (Qised) Canal, the thriving capital of the
province of Gharblyeh, which lies betw^een the Rosetta and Damietta
arms of the Nile, has apopulation of 54,437 and possesseslarge public
buildings, churches, bazaars, a large American mission hospital for
women and children, an qxtensive palace of the Khedive, and a
small museum of antiquitiefe.
'J'he iMosque of the Seirid Ahmed el-Bedawi, the most popular
saint in Egypt (p. scii), wno was born in the 12th cent, at Fez and
settled at Tanta after a pijgrimage to iMecca, is a handsome domed
building, erected by 'Abbjs 1. and Isma'il Pasha on the site of the
original building, which (fated from 1276. The large forecourt con-
tains the basin for ablutions. Europeans are often denied access to
the interior. Tiie catafalque of the saint is covered with red velvet
adorned with gold embroidery and is enclosed by a handsome bronze
railing. Connected with the mosque are a college, the largest but
one in Egypt (2026 students and 99 professors in 1911 ; comp. p. 55),
and two small schools i^mt'dreseh). The sebil, or tank, with the
small school above it, in the space adjoining the mosque, is older.
From Tanta to MehaVe' Rdh. Matifava, and Damietta, see K. 10.
From Tasta to Cairo. 66'/j M-, branch-railway in 3V2-3V4 hrs. — The
line runs to the .•>. to (17V'.M-) SItibin el-Kvm, the capital of the province of
MenHfiy^h, one of the moit fertile regions in the Delta. — 25V2 M. MenHf, a
town with 22,316 inhab., if the central point of the province. — 38'/'^ M.
AshmUn. — At (52 M.) Barra/e we join the route to Cairo mentioned on p. 121.
Tanta is also tlie sta-ting-point of several Light Railways: 1. Via
Bermd (see above) and Basydn Rigulateur to Shin (p. 32), and thence via
Sakha (liranch to Kafr e.'-h-Sheikh, ji. 175, and Sidi Salem) to Mehalleh
el-Kuhra (p. 174). |Froin Basvun Reyulateur a branch-line runs to BdivAn
(9000 inhah.) and Sd drjagar (see below).] — 2. Via Kot6r (p. 32) to
Mthalleh el-Kuhru (p. 174). — 3. To Kafr ez-Zaiydt, see above.
About li2 31. to th< X. of .Sd el-Ilagar (see above; accommodation at
the 'Onideh's, or chieftoiagislrates) lie the inconsiderable ruins of Sais,
the resilience of PsamAetichos I. and the kings of the 26th Dynasty and
one of the centres of lie cult of Neith.
80 M. Defra (Dira). — The train crosses the Kased Canal and,
beyond the station a Birkct es-Saba (Btit. Cons. Agent, A.W. Mur-
34 Route 3. BENE A.
docli; branch-line to Zifteli, see p. 174), (he Bahr Shibin (p. 175),
tlie ancient Sebennytic arm of the Nile and now the main arm of
the Damietta branch. A number of cotton-cleaning mills afford an
indication of the wealth of the country. — 93 M. Kuesna (Quesna).
Near Benha, on the Damietta arm of the Nile, is a large khedivial
palace, where 'Abbas I. (p. cxxii) died in 1854 (probably by vio-
lence). — The train crosses the Damietta branch of the Nile by a
large iron bridge.
lOO'/j M. Benha, with 20,000 inhab., is the capital of the pro-
vince of Kalydbtyeli and the junction for the railway to Zakazik and
the Suez Canal (p. 181). It is noted for its oranges, mandarins, aTid
grapes. A considerable market is held here on Mondays.
To the N.E. of Benha, not far from the town and to the left of tlie
railway, are the insignificant ruins of tie ancient Alhribis, now uainod
K6m el-Atrib. — A branch-line (five trains daily) leads to (8 M.) Mil Berah,
on the left bank of the Damietta arm, ani light railways run to MumHra
and the Barrage du Nil (see \>. ITiJ).
Beyond Benha the train crosses the large Rayah et-Taufiki. Near
( lOSl/o M.) Tukh or Tukh el-Mala^ (light railway to Beltan and
Shibin el-Kanatir, see p. 171) the mountains enclosing the Nile
valley become visible in the distance. — 113V2 M. Kaha (Qaha).
120'/o M. Kalyub (Calioub, Qalitb), a district -capital with
16,793 inhab., is the junction of branth-lines to Zakazik (p. 171)
and to Tanta (see p. 33) via the Barrage du Nil (p. 122 1. The out-
lines of the pyramids then begin to loom in the distance on the
right. The track crosses the Sharkdw7ijehjSharqawla) Canal.
The Libyan chain becomes more distinctly visible, and we
observe also the Mokattam range with tlib citadel, and the mosque
of Mohammed Ali with its slender minuets. Gardens and villas
come in sight. To the left lie the site ♦f the ruins of Heliopolis
(the obelisk of which is not seen from tlie Railway), Matariyeh with
its sycamores, Kubbeh, the residence of thcJihedive, and the suburb
of 'Abbasiyeb, while on the right we perc^ve the long Shari' esh-
Shubra (p. 78).
130 M. Cairo (central station), see p.
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35
4. Cairo.
Plan ok Caiko. The cnmmoncst word for a street J9 fyhdri' (Freneli
Chareh), meaning a main street, avenue, or boulevard; other words used
a,ve Siklceh (street), Berh (touiI, also caravan-tvack), //<»•« (lane, also quarter
of a town), and 'At/a (blind alley). Middn is a square. — Since the British
occupation the names of the streets have been written up at the corners
in Arabic, accompanied by Knglisb or French transliterations on a some-
what inexact system (p. xxviii). Our plan follows this transliteration in
general, correcting, however, the more obvious defects (e.g. the English
'c«' is represented, as in the text, by '»'). Some of the old French names,
eonsecrated by usage, have l)een retained.
a. Railway Stations. Hotels and Pensions. Restaurants and Cafes.
Railway Stations. 1. Centkal Station (Gare Oeutrale, PI. IJ,1; Bufl'et),
on the N. side of the town, 12 miu. from the Ezbekiyeh Garden, for
Alexandria^ Port Sa'id, Suez, the whole of the Delta, and Upper Egypt. —
2. Pont I-imCn Station or Gakk dk Matauiteh, beside the last, for the
line to Shibin el- Kaadlir (coinp. p. 120) via Dcmivddsh (for 'Abbdsiyeh),
Kubbeh, ZciiOn, Mtiidrvjeh (Old Ueliopolis), El-Mwg, etc. — 3. Bab el-LOk
Station lOare de Bab el-Loiik; PI. B, O), for Ileladn via El-Ma'ddi and for
'Ain cs-Siru (p. 115). — The hotel-commissionuaircs, with their omnibuses,
and representatives of the tourist-agents (p. 38) await the arrival of the fast
trains. I.uiigage may lie entrusted also to the Arab porters with iiumbereil
metal badges on tlieir arms (trunk 1 pias., several articles '/^ l''''S- "^'^cb),
who will conduct the traveller to the holel-omiiibus or procure a cab for
him (tarilT, sec p 39). Heavy luggage is sent on to the hotel in special
vehicles.
Hotels (conip. p. ,\viii). The leading hotels at Cairo are e.Kcellent; at
most of them evening dress is de rigueur at late dinner. Even the tecond-
class hotels are well fitted up, nearly all having electric light, baths, etc.
As all the hotels are freciuently full, especially in .Tan,, Feb., and March,
it is a wise precauti(m to telegrajdi for rooms from Alexandria or Purl
.Sa'id, if they have not been engaged even sooner. In summer many of
the hotels are closed and the others lower their prices. Children and
servants pay half-price.
In Vie Int-rior of the 2'ow7t: '■'Sukpiieard's Hotel (PI. B, S; owned by
the Kgyplian Hotels Co.), Shari' Kamel 8, E/.bekiyeh, with 400 rooms
(180 with bathrooms), separate suites for families, a famous terrace (band
on Sal.), };ardcn, restaurant, bar, post & telegraph oflice, etc., i)ens.
from 80 pias, open all the year round; -Savot Hotel (1*1. B, 4; owned
by the George Nungovich Co. Ltd.), Midan Suleiman Basha, a fashionable
house, with 2oU rooms (many with balhrooins), central heating, private
suites, and a high-class restaurant, frequented by British oflicers and ofli-
cials, pens, from 90 pias.; "Hotel Semikamis (PI. A, .0; owned by the
Egyptian Hotels i:o.), Ka.sr ed-Dubara, (m the Nile, a fashionable house,
with 250 rooms (SO with bathrooms), central healing, bar, post- office,
garden, terrace on the roof (Que view), etc., open Nov. 20th-April 20th.
pens, from S'J pius. ; "Hotel Continental (Pl.B, C, 3; owned by the same
company as the Savoy), Shari' Kamel 2, in the Place de rOpera, with
300 rooms (60 with bathrooms), fainily-snites, terrace, grill-room (dcj. 20,
D. 30 pias. ; band), pens, from TO, in April-Kov. from 6(3 pias., many English
vi.sitors. — 'Hotel d'Angleteuue (PI. B, 3; same owners as the Savoy),
Shari' el-Jlaghrabi, a quiet family hotel, with 100 rooms, separate suites,
terrace, etc., pens, from GO pias.; "National Hotel (PI. B, 3), Shalri' Su-
36 Houk 4. CAIRO. Practical
leiman Basba 30, at the coiner of the Sbari' Oeir el-l'.euat, with 150 room.'',
pens. 60-8U pias. — New Khedivial Hotel (PI. B, 2), Shari' Nubar Basba 2,
with 80 rooms, pens. 50-70 pias., well spoken of; Eden Palace Hotel
(PI. C, 3), Sbari' el-Genaineh, with 126 rooms, pens, from 46 pias., evening
dress optional; *Villa Victokia Peivate Hotel (PI. B, 3), Shari' .Shawarbi
Basba 8, a quiet house in a good situation, with 50 rooms, pens. 60-70,
April-Nov. 50-60 pias. — Hotel Villa Nationale, Shari' Sbawarbi Basha 4
(PI. B, 3, 4), with garden, pens. 45-.55 pias. ; Hotel Bristol et du Nil (PI. C,
2, 3), Midan el-Khazindar, to the N.E. of the Ezbekiyeh, with 120 beds, pens,
from 65 pias., evening dress optional — Hotel lifeTKOPOLE (PI. B, C, 3),
Haret Zogheb, near tbe Sbari' el-JIanakb, with 80 rooms, pens. 52-60 pias.
— Hotel des Votagedks (PI. B, 2), Sbari' Niibar Basha 10, with good
cuisine, pens. 45-50 pias., Hotel de Pakis (PI. B, 2, 3), opposite Shepheard's
Hotel, pens. 40-50 pias., both patronized by French travellers.
On the Gezireh Island in the Nile (p. 79) : Ghezikeh Palace Hotel (same
proprietors as Shepheard's), a family hotel of tbe first class, in a large
;.;arden (band twice weekly), close to the Khedivial Sporting Club, pens,
from 75 pias. ; restaurant at the Casino (see below).
In the Oasis of HeliopoUs (p. 119): ''Heliopolis Palace Hotel, a first-
class house with modern equipment, on the electric railway mentioned ou
p. 39, with 400 ri'om'i (2(0 with bathrooms), garden, pavilion, etc., open
Nov. -April, pens. 80-120pias. — Heliopolis House, a first-class family hotel,
opposite the last, with 60 rooms, larae terrace (concerts), restaurant, bar, etc.,
pens. 40-.50 pias. — Pens. Belle-Vde, with 33 rooms, pens. 35-50 pias.
Near the Pyramids of Gizeh (p. l'J3) : 'Mena House Hotel (same pro-
prietors as tbe Savoy), at the terminus of the tramway to the Pyramids (p. 38,
No. 14), with 15'J rooms, swimming and other baths, garden, grass golf-
course, tennis courts, post and telegraph office, library, etc., open Oct. 15tb-
Jlay 1.5tb ;ind recommended to invalids (p. xxii ; physician in residence);
pens, from 66 pias. The restaurant (dej. at 1 p.m. 20 pias., D. at 7.30 p.m.
30 pias.) and tbe swimming-bath are open to non-residents also ; regular
motor-car services to and from the railway station (25 min.) and the
town. Anglican Church service every Sunday. — Sphinx Hotel. 10 min.
to the S.E. of the terminus of the tramway, near the village of Kafr el-
Haram (p. 138), pens, from 50 pias.
Pensions. Rossmore House (Misses Greenwell & Chicnll), Shari' el-Madfi-
begh 15 (PI. B, 3, 4), pens. 40-50 pias.; Cecil Bouse, Shari' el-Bustan 8,
beside the Mohammed Aly Club (PI. A, 4), pens. 35 5) pias.; Grosvenor
Souse, Shari' Borsah el-Gedideh 1 and Shari' Kasr en-Nil, near the Savoy
Hotel (PI. B. 4). pens. 40-60 pias.; Pens. Sim'a, Sbari' el-MaKhrabi 5 (PI.
B, 3), pens. 40 pias.; Pens. Nationale, Shari' Kasr en-Nil 34 (PI. A, B, 4, 3),
pens. 45-55 pias.; Villa Chatham, Shari' el-Bustan 32 (PI. A, B, 4), pens.
40-50 pias. ; Pens. Morisson, Shari' Bfllak 9 (PI. A, B, .3), pens. 40-50 pias.;
Pens. Tadey, same address, pens. 30-60 pias.; Pens. Ehrlich, Midan Suarez
(Pi. B, 3), pens. 2o-35 pias. ; Pens. Konig, Shari' 'Imad ed-Din; Pens. Beige-
Handcar, Shari' Suleiman Basha 15, 2nd floor (PI. A, B, 4, 3), pens. 28 pias.
incl. wine.
Private Apartments (mostly unfurnished) are seldom to be obtained
for a shorter period than six months. Information as to rooms may be
obtained at the chief shops or from agents whose addresses may be best
learned at the consulates. A sunny aspect should be chosen in winter,
and a detailed written contract invariably drawn up. A bargain as to
food may be made with some neighbouring restaurant ; for only those
conversant with the language should attempt to keep house for themselves
with native servants.
Restaurants. Besides the grill-rooms at the best hotels: ''St. Jatnes''s,
Shari' Bdlak, opposite the Egyptian telegraph office (p. 37), dej. 15, D.
(p. 79) formerly
pavilion, sumptuously fitted up in the oriental style, with a French restaur-
ant (orchestra 4-6 p.m.); balls and symphony concerts.
NoUs. CAIRO. t. Route. 37
Bars &, Cafes. iWw liar, Alahroussa />'«;•, ('ti/6 K/icUivial, all in the
Place (le I'Opcra; Splendid Bar, Shari' Kaiiiel ; Restaitrant-Bar High Life,
Shari' Wagh el-15irket 42; Brasserie Urquell, Parisiana, both in the Shari'
Elfi Bey, near Sliepheard's Gai'den. — CafiJs in tlie Enr()i)ean style, at which
beer and other lievorascs arc obtained, abound in and near the Ezbekiyeh ;
none of them are suitalde for ladies. — CAFiis Conckkts (for gentlemen
only): Sphinx Bar, Shari' Biilak, with grill-room; St. James'' s Restaurant
(p. 36); Cafi Egypiien, opposite Shcpheard's Hotel, with female orchestra;
Eldorado, in the E. part of the Shari'' Wagh el-Birket, under the colon-
nades. — The multitudinous Arab Cai'i>s are small and dirty and hardly
worth visiting. t'olTee in the Arabian stvle is easily obtained elsewhere. —
Bodegas. In the U6tel Royal (PI. C,2), Shari' Wagh el-Birket; New Bodega,
opposite Cook'.-i Agency (\>. .38), with t;ood cuisine; Cairo Bodega, Shari' Elfi
Bey 7. — foNKECTiouicES. Sault, Shari' Biilak; Qroppi, Sliari' ol-Jlanakh;
LeIirenhraiKs, Sh.Hri'' Ka.sr en-i<il 22, with garden; Maison Dor<'e, Shari' el-
Manakh. — Bakers. Kiensle <t Simoi/ds, Shari' el-Maghrabi; Le/irenhravss,
see above.
Beer. Restaurant Bavaria (p. 36); Dippmann (p. 36); Flasch, lli'dan
ITalim B;isha; Brasserie Pilsen, Shari' Elfi Bey: Bayrische Bierhalle, witli
bar, Shari' Biil.-ll;.
b. Consuls. Police. Banks. Post & Telegraph Offices. Tourist Ag-ents
Steamboat Offices.
Consulates icomp. p. x.\). BuiTisn Aoekct (PI. A, 5), Viscount Kitchener
of Khartoum, diplomatic agent and consul-general, Shari' el- Walda 3, Ka.sr
ed-Duliara ; A ]i. Alban, consul, Shari' Gami' esh-Sherkes (PI. B, 4), near llie
Midan Suleiman Basha; G. G. Kno.v, vice-consul. — Vnited St.\tes Agency
(PI. A, 5), 0. Arnold, diplomatic agent and consul-general, Shriri' Lazoghli,
Kasr ed-Duliara; vice-consuls, P. Knabenshue and L. Belrose. There arc
also Austrian, Belgian, Dutch, German, Krench, and other consular re-
presentatives.
Sudan Agent. Major L. 0. F. Slack, &^Aa.n Agency (PI. A, B, 5).
The Police iZabtiyeh, I'l. I), 4; p. 62). which is under a military or-
ganization, con.-^ists of about S'X) officials, who arc very obliging to strangers.
There are some European niorabers of the force, chiefly Italians. The town
is divided into districts, each with a police station (Karakol).
Bankers. B'lnque Impf.riale Ottomans (PI. B, 3), Shiiri' 'Jmad cd-Din 13;
Anglo-Egyptian Bank (PI. C. 3). National Bank of Egypt (PI. B, 4), Shari'
Kasr en-Nil ; Cridit Lyonnais (PI. 0, ill, Shari' el-Bosta (office-hours 9-12 &.
3-5); Thos. Cook d- Son (p. 38) ; Deutsche Oriinlbank \P\. B. 3), Shari' el-
Manakh 23; Banque dAthhies (PI. B, 4), Shari' Sheikh Abu'l Seba'a. —
iMoNEr Changers (comp. p. xv). The neces.sary small change can always
be obtained from the money-changers in the streets, from the hotel-portier,
or in making purchases in the shops or at the post-office. The coins re-
ceived should always be carefully scrutinized.
Post Office fPl. C, 3; p. 51). at the corner of the Shari' Tahir and
the Sbarl' ol-Baidak. The office on the street, open daily from' 7.30 a.m.
to 9.30 p.m., sells postage -stamps only. The inner office is open from
9 a.m. till 6.30 p.m. (with a short interruption about 12.30 p.m.) and from
8.45 to 9.30 p.m. for the night express to Isma'illyeh. Lists of the mails
by steamer to Europe, etc., are exhibited daily in the vestibule. The ar-
rival of Registered Letters, etc., is intimated to the addressee by a notice,
which must be produced, bearing the stamp of the hotel or the endorse-
ment of a well-known resident, wlien the letters are applied for. There are
several branch [>ost-officKS in the town ; also at some of the hotels. Letter-
boxes at all the hotels.
Telegraph Offices. Eastern Telegraph Co. (PI. B, 3; British), Shari'
'Imad ed-Uin. — Egyptian Telegraph (PI. B, 3), Shari' Bulak, at the corner
of tbe Shari' 'Imad ed-Din. — Branch-offices in the Muski. a Biilak, and
in (lezireh.
38 Routed. CAIRO. Practical
Tourist Agents. Thus. Cook d- , Son (1*1. 1!, 2, 3j, SliiVii' Kaiuol G, besiJe
Shepheard's Hotel; Hamburg - American Line., at tbe Hotel Continental;
Frank C. Clark, near Shepheard's Hotel; Z>. E. Miiiiari (comp. p. 418), Shari'
Kamel 5; Cox''s International Aijcncy.^ Shari' 'Imad ed-Din ; Cairo Express
Agency., Shari' cl-31aglirabi. — Compagnie Internationale des ]V(igon-Lits, a
the Central Slation.
Steamboat Offices. Ilainhurrj it Anglo-American Nile Co.., at the Hotel
Continental; Peninsnlar iV Oriental Co., White Star JAne, Union- Castle Line,
at Cook^s (see above); North German Lloyd and Honmanian lioyal Mail
Line, Tlace de TOpera 3 (Storzing); German East African Line. Shari' el-
Bosla 3 (Fi.K & David); Austrian Lloyd, Shari' el-Maghrabi 7 (Heller) and
at Munari\s (see above); KhudiHal Mail Steamship Co., at Munari's (see
above); Russian Steamship Co.. Shari' Ka.sr en-Nil 40 (Alshov.^ky); Messa-
geries Maritimes, Shari' el-Ma;jhrabi 12; Societa Maritlima Italiana, Shari'
el-Maghrabi 39 (E. Figari); Societa Italiana di Servizi Marittimi, at Cooks
(see above). — Information as to the departure of steamers in the notice-
frames at Cook's office and in the hotels. — Lloyd's Agent, D. Rees, Shari'
'Imad ed-Din.
c. Tramways. Electric Railway. Steamers. Cabs. Donkeys. Dragomans.
The Electric Tramways are numbered and have special compartments
for women (fare, 1st class 10 mill., 2nd cla.ss 5 mill., unless otherwise
stated). The principal points of intersection are the Place El-' Ataba el-Khadra
(PI. 0, 3), to the S.E. of tlie E/.bekiyeh, and the Central Railway Station
(PI. B, 1; Place Ramsh). — 1 (white lamp). From the Mid/In el- Khdzinddr
(PI. C, 3) via tbe 'Ataba el-Khadra (.'ee above), Shari' es-Saha (PI. C, B, 4),
Midan Isma'iliyeh (PI. A, 4, H; Kasr en -Nil Bridge, Egyptian fliiiseum),
Shari' Kasr el-'Aini, and Fumm el-Khalig (PI. A, 7) to did Cairo (p. 106);
every G'/z miu., in 40 min. — 2 (yellow). From the Khr-divial Sporting Club
at Gezireh (p. 79) via the Biilak Bridge, Shari' Abu'l 'Ela (PI. A, 3), Shari'
Biilak, 'Ataba el-Khadra (see above), and Bab el-Khall< (PI. D, 4) to the
Citadel (Place Saladin; PI. E, 6); every 12 min. — 3 (white). From the
'Atdba el-Khadra (see above) via the (!entral Eail\v:iv Station (Place Ram-
ses; PI. B, 1) and Midan ez-Zahir (PI. D, E, 1) to'Abbdsiyeh (comp. PI.
K, F, 1); every 3 min. — 4 (red) From the Zabtlyeh (comp. PI. A, 1) via
the Central Ptailwav Station (PI. B, 1), Shari' Clot Ei-y, 'Ataba el-Khadra,
Midan Bab el-Luk (PI. B, 4), and Midan Nasriyeh (PI. B, C, 6) to the Seiyideh
Zeinab (PI. C, 6, 7) ; everv 4 min. — 5 (red). From Ohamra (to the N. of
PI. D, 1) via the Midan ez-Zfibir (PI. D, E, 1), Bab csh-Sha'riych (PI. D, 2),
Muski, Bab el-Khalk (PI. D, 4; Arabian JMuseum), Shari' Kbalig el-Masri,
and the Seiyideh Zeinab (PI. C, 6, 7) to the Abattoirs (beyon.l PI. B, C, 1);
every 5 min. — 6 (yellow). From Embdbeh (p. 143) to Gezireh and across
the Biilak Bridge, thence to the Citadel as in No. 2; every 12 min. (fares
2 & 1 pias.}. — 7. From the Midan ez-Zdhir (PI. D, E, 1) as in No. 5 to
the Seiyideh Zeinab (PI. C, 6, 7). — 8 (\vhite). From the 'Ataba el-Khadra
via the Shari' Bulak (PI. B, A, 3), Shari' 'Abbas (PL A, B, 3, 2), and Central
Railway Station to Shubra (comp. PI. B, 1 ; p. 78); every 6 min. — 9 (green).
From the 'Ataba el-Khadra via the Shari' Clot Bey and the Central Railway
Station to Edd el-Farag' (con\\}. PI. B, 1; p. 78); every 6 min. — 10 (red).
From the 'Ataba el-Khadra as in No. S to the Central Railway Station (Place
Ramses), then via the Shari' ez-Zahir to Sakakini (comp. PI. D, 1); every
5 min. — 12 (violet; circular rovite). From the Central Bailwuy Station via
the Shari' 'Abbas, Shari' Mariette Basha (PI. A, 4; Egyptian Museum), Ka.sr
en-Nil, Midan el-Azhar (PI. E, 4; Bab el-Luk Station), and Midan Nasriyeh
(PI. B, C, 6) to the Seiyideh Zeinab (PI. C, G, 7) and back by the Bab el-
Khalk (PI. D, 4) and 'Atal>a el-Khadra to the Central Railway Station; every
7 min. — 13 (green). From the Citadel as in No. 2 to the E. end of Biilak
Bridge, then to (he N. to the Technical School at Biilak (p. 79); every 6 min".
— 14 (red; Pyramid line). From the 'Ataba el-Khadra (PI. C, 3) via the
Shari' BCilak (PI. B, A, 3), Biilak Bridge, Zoological Gardens, and Gizeh
Village to the Pyramids (Mena House; p. 36); during the winter every
Notes.
CAIRO. d. Route.. 39
20 inin. in tlie niMrning and every '/•• h'- •" "le alleriun n (during svunmer
every hour and half-hour), in 1 hr. (lans l, 2 pias. ; last car leaving for
Cairo at 11.10 pm.); when the I'.ulak Bridge is open (see p. 79), the cars
run via the J.-sUind nf Jidda (\k 105). — 15 (vinlct). From Ihe 'Ataba el-Khadra
(PI. C, 3) either as in Xd. 14 to the Zoological Garditns and to Oizeh Village.,
or as in No. 1 to the Fumm el-Khalig and via the Island of Ruda and
'Abbas II. bridge tn GUeh Village; every 12 miii. (fares 2, 1 pias.). — 17
(yellow). From tho Central Uailuiaii ,'<tatiuti as in No. 12 to the Jiasr en-Nil,
then to GaiiiAmiz ; every 5 min. — From the 'Ataba el-Khadra to HeliopoHs
Oasis (p. 119); every 10 or 13 niin.
Electric Express Railway ('Mi'lropolitain' ; dark bruwn and white cars)
from the ,Slidri' ' Jiuiid ^d-D^v (I'l. i!,3; besidf the K'^ypliun telegraph office)
to Heliopiilif Oaiit (p. llil); every 6-20 min. from 6 3U a.m. until midnight,
in 20 min. (fare. 2 nr 1 pias.).
Steamboats of the Comjmgiiie dcs Baleau.v - Omnibtis du Canal Ismailia
ply daily from HOd el-Farag (p. 78) to the Barrage (p. 122). Excursions
are made al<o to the Barrag>: (p. J22) and SaUdva (p. 145).
Nile steamers to Upper J'-gypt, see p. 201.
Cabs (comp. p. xviii), generally good victorias with two horses, are
always abundant in the European quarters and others frequented by
strangers. Closed cabs (landaus I are usually to be obtained only on special
order and at higher fares. If a cab is hired by time the cabman should
be informed before starting. Fares shoiild never bo jiaid until the end
of the drive, and the passengers should give no attention to the complaints
of the cabman. IJakshisb is usually given only tor drives of some length.
— Complaints, with the nnmlier of the cab and the time, should be lodged
at the police-office (p. 37). During the season the demands of the cabmen
are often exorbitant, but as a general rule the mere mention of the dreaded
police ('Icaralior; p. 37) is sufficient to reduce the drivers to reason.
Cab TAniKi-- for i-3 pers. (each pers. extra 2 pias. ; each piece of luggage
beside the, driver 1 pias.; night and day rate the same):
Ordinarv Cahs. 1. Per drive within a radius of 4 kilometres (2V2 M.)
from the Place de FOpcra (PI. C, 3): 1 kil. 3 pias., each additional kil.
2 pias. If the cab is dismissed beyond the radius 2 pias. more is charged
for each kilometre. Wailing, 2 pias. per i/i It. — 2. By time (Arab. Bi.<-
sd'a), within the town: up to 1 hr. 10 pias.; each additional 1/4 hr. 2 pias.;
whole day (.*-8) 70 pias. — 3. Longer drives : Citadel 10, there and back (in-
cluding halt of I hr.) 20 pias. ; Old Cairo 12*25 [lias. (including halt of
1 hr.); Tcmbs of the Caliphs 15 & 30 pias. (including halt of 2hrs.); Oasis
of ricliopolis 3U * 50 pias. (including halt of 2 hrs.); Pyramids of Gizeh 40
it (10 pias. (including halt of 3 hrs.).
Tamhf.tf.i: Cabs. Fur the first kilometre 2 pias., each additiona
()00 metres 1 pias.; waiting, 2 pias. per '/< lir.
Taxisietek Motor Cabs (Taxi-Autos). For the first 1200 metres (3/4 M.)
3'/2 pias.. each additi'uial 4()0 metres or 5 min. waiting 1 pias. On longer
drives, when the cab is n^it wanted for the return, the cabman is entitled
to 5 pias. from Gezireh, the t'itadel, or 'Abbasiyeh, 8 pias. from Ueliopolis,
and 10 pias. from the Pyramids of Gizeh.
Donkeys (comp. p. xviii), l)er short ride in the city 1-2, (icr hr. 4-5 pia^.,
hall'-a-day S-12, for a day's excursion 20-25 pias. They may be found at
all the most fre<iuentcd points, but they are now seldom used by Europeans
in the town. For visits to the Tombs of the Caliphs and the Mame-
lukes, to the Mokaltam Hills, and similar excursions, donkeys offer this ad-
vantage over cabs, that they can gi. everywhere, while the bridle-paths are
much less dusty than the carriage-roads. The liaksbish should be propor-
tionate to the quality of the donkey and the behaviour of the donkey-boy.
Dragomans (comp. p. xxvl. Only hurried travellers require a cicerone.
The best i5-Si. per day) are to be ha<l at C.iok s office (p. 38) or at the
hotels, where also » list of the guides licensed by the police may be seen.
Travellers are warned against the guides who offer to show them the life
of Cairo at night. — Intercourse with the natives, comp. p. xxiv.
40 Route 4. CAIRO. Practical
d. Physicians. Chemists. Hospitals. Baths. Hairdressers.
Physicians. English: J)r. Beddoe; Dr. Day; Dr. Garry; Dr. Keatinge
fsee below); Dr. Madden; Dr. Milton; Dr. Murison (see below); Dr. Phillips;
Mr. Richards; Dr. Tribe., anil others. German: Dr. von Backer -Bey; Prof.
Engel-Bey ; Dr. Kautzky-liey ; Dr. Weriner. Dr. Brossard (see below ; French j ;
Dr. Hegi (see below), Dr. Hess -Bey (both Swiss). — Oculists: Dr. Fischer
(English); Dr. Meyerhof {German). — Aurists: Dr. Beddoe {Euf::,\is.h] ; Dr. von
//«6(;reto?i2 (Hunyavian). — Skin Diseases: Dr. Scheubcr (Russian); Dr. Lotsy
(Dutch). — Orthopedist: Dr. Conrath (see below; Austrian). — Diseases
of Women: Dr. yjoft&w (English); Dr. Hildebrandt, Dr. Uetzlaff {Ge.Tmz,ns). —
Dentists: Dr. Duprey, Dr. Hooper, Dr. Waller (Knglish): Dr. Arbeely, Dr.
Preund, Dr. Henry, Dr. Steen (Amer.). Tlie addresses of the above may be
obtained at the hotels, from the chemists, and at Diemer's (see below).
Chemists. German tb English Dispensary, Shari' el-Bawaki; P/iarmacie
Anglo- AtnMcaine, New English Dispensary, Stephenson <& Co., all three in
the Place de rOpera; London Pharmacy, in the Ilalim Building, beside
.Shepheard's Hotel; Savoy Pharmacy (Norton & Co.), Shari' Kasr en-Nil;
Roberts, opposite the 8avny Hotel; Pharmacie Nardi, in the Muski.
Hospitals. Victoria Hospital (PI. A, 3; Prot.), Shari' Deir el-Benat, man-
aged by German Deaconesses, under the superintendence of Drs. Zeller.
Murison, and Hegi. — French Hospital (physician. Dr. Brossard), at 'Ab-
basiyeh (p. 78), served by Sisters of Charity. — Anstria- Hungarian Rudolf
Hospital (physician, Dr. Conrath), at Shubra. — Anglo-American Hospital
at Gezireli (p. 79). — Italian Hospital, at 'Abbasiyeh. — The A"a.sr el-'Aini
(PI. A, 7; p. 53), a government hospital for native patients with a school
of medicine, is under the superintendence of Dr. Keatinge. — Church Mis-
sionary Society Hospital (physician. Dr. Lasbrey), in Old Cairo (p. 106), for
native patients. — The Association Jnlernationale d'' Assistance Publique, Shari'
Garni' esh-Sherkes 32 renders first-aid (gratuitous) to victims of accidents.
Baths. European Baths at the hotels; Swimming Baths (in summer
only) behind Shepheard's Hotel. — The Arab Baths are scarcely suitable
lor Europeans (com)), p. xxvii).
Hairdressers in the European style abound in the freqnented quarters
of the town. We may mention K. Weinrich & Co., Shari' Kasr en->{il 44,
H. Muhr, Shiiri' el-Mauakh 25, and those at the Savoy, Continental, f3emi-
ramis, Ghezireh Palace and Shepheard's Hotels. — Arabian Barbers (not
for Europeans), .see p. 48.
e. Shops.
Booksellers and Stationers. F. Diemer's Successors (Find: <t Baylaender),
at Shepheard's Hotel (also photographs and newspapers; foreign literature;
general information); B. Livadas d: Kutsikos ('The 'fourist'), Shari' Kamel,
opposite Shepheard's Hotel; Savoy Booksellers (Michel), Shari' Kasr en-Nil,
opposite the Savoy Hotel; Librairie Cenirale ( Delburgo), Shari' 'Imad ed-Din.
— Stationery, visiting-cards, etc.: Boehme it Anderer, Shari' el-Waghrabi;
Diemer (see above); Papeterie Suisse (Baader <& Gross), Shari' Ka.sr en-Nil. —
English Nkwspai'ees : Egyptian Gazette, the leading English paper (1 pias.),
Egyptian Morning News (72 pias.), Egyptian Daily Post ('/2 pias.), all three
daily; Sphinx (weekly during the season only; 2 pias.). — Cikculating
LiBRAEV, in All Saints' Garden, Shari' Bulak.
Photographs. Lekegian, beside Shepheard's Hotel ; i)te»!er (see above) ;
P. Dittrich (Heuman J: Co.), Shari' Elfi Bey 7 (negatives developed). —
Photographic Materials. Egypt Kodak, Place de TOp^ra; Del Mar, Midan
Suarez; Dittrich (see above).
European Wares. Clothing, shoes, articles for travellers, for shoot-
ing, etc.: Davies, Bryan, & Co., Shari' 'Imad ed-Din, corner of Shari' el-
Manakh ; Roberts, Hughes, d; ('o., Mi'dan Suarez; Phillips <i' Co., Shari' Kasr
en-Nil; Collacott, Shari' el-Maghrabi ; Mayer, Muski; S. Stein, Bachdrach
d- Co., both in the 'Ataba el-Khadra; Karmann, in the Muski and the Halim
Building, beside Shepheard's Hotel. Ladies' requirements : Au Printemps,
Shari' Ka.sr en-NiI 23; Miles. V4cile. Shari' Shawarbi Basha 7; Franci's, Shari'
Notes. CAIRO. 4. Route. 41
'Imad ed-Din; Cicurel^ Chemla Frires, Sliari' Bfllak 11 and 19; B. Patc?ial,
Shari' el-Bawaki. — Household requirements : J. d H. Fleurent, Shari' Elfl
Bey, behind Shepheard's Hotel; Walker <t Meimaraclii, Shari' Kasr en-Nil. —
Watchmakers and goldsmiths: Pavid , beaide Shepheard's' Hotel; Suys-
Badollet, opposite Shepheard's; Lattet, Shari' el-Manakh 30; Kramer, Siiss-
mann, both in the Muski; Alerakis, Zivy, both in the Halim Building, beside
Sliepheard's Hotel; Rud. Stobhe, Shari' el-Manakh 1^8. — Sporting Goods:
Bajocchi, in the Ezbekiyeh, near the Bristol Hotel. — Opticians: Davidson tb
Jieffenstreif, in the Hotel Continental; Lawrence d- Mayo, in Shepheard's Hotel
Buildings ; lieinisch, Muski ; Siissmann, Kramer, see above. — Flowers : Stamm,
Shari' el-Mandkh 23; Eggert, in Shepheard's Hotel; Khoulousiy Bey, Shari'
Kasr en-Nil.
Tobacco (comp. p. xvii). Turkish tobacco (Stambuli) and cigarettes are
sold hy Ntitor GianacUs, Halim Building, beside Shepheard's Hotel; Dimi-
trino i Co., Shari' Kaniel'; Salonica, Place de I'Op^ra; ilelachrino, Halim
Building; Maiossian, Shari' el-Ezbek; Laurens, opposite the Savoy Hotel;
etc. — CiGAKs: Engelhardt, Place de TOpera; S. <t C. Flick, Van Vlooten,
both in the Hotel Continental, and opposite Shepheard's.
Arabian Bazaars, see p. 50 & pp. 53 et seq. The most important for
purchases is the Kl>dn el-Khalili (p. 54j. Many so-called oriental articles are,
however, manufactured in Europe and are to be obtained at home equally
srenuine and much cheaper. — The prices demanded by the dealers for
■antiques' are absurd, though unfortunately many travellers are foolish
enough to pay them, in spite of the notorious fact that most of the articles are
forgeries (p. 252). Genuine articles may be obtained from. if. Nahman, Shari'
Sheikh Abu'l Seba'a 20, and from Kytikas, N. Tano, and R. E. Blanchard,
all three in the Shari' Eamel. Those sold at the Museum are cheaper
(p. 81). A special permit from the Museum authorities is required by
law for the export of large specimens.
Arabian Woodwork, Inlaid Work, and Ivory Carvings are sold hy Parvis,
an Italian, on the left side of a court near the entrance to the Muski (p. 53),
and by E. Hutoun, also in the Muski ; strangers should not fail to visit the
interesting workshops, which they may do without making any purchase.
Also, Furino, Sliari' Suleiman Basha, behind the Savoy Hotel.
Oriental Embroidery, Carpets, and other Articles. Vilali Madjar, in
Shepheard's Hotel; Chellaram, in the Hotel Continental; The Oriental Carpets
Manvfaciurers, opposite the Savoy Hotel; Joseph Cohen, Khan el-Khalili;
Jspenian, Shari' Kasr en -Nil; Pohoomull Brothers, opposite Shepheard's;
Kytikas (see above); Philip; Hatoun (see above); The Oriental Galleries,
Shari' el-Manakh 13; in the Oriental Museum (Gabriel Antoine); also at
various dealers in the Khan el-Khalili (p. 54).
Goods Agents. F. Bancel <t Co., Shari' el-Maghrabi and opposite
Shepheard's; JohnB. Caffari, Shari' el-Manakh; Congdon <b Co., Blattner &
Co., both in the Shari' Kasr en-Nil; John Ross & Co., Shari' el-Maghrabi 31 ;
Cook & Son (p. 38) ; Egyptian Bonded Warehouse Co., Shari' Zabtiyeh, near the
station. Those who make purchases in Egypt to any considerable extent are
recommended to send them home through the medium of a goods -agent.
In order to avoid custom-house examinations, porterage, and various other
items of expense and annoyance. The consigner should satisfy himself
that the packing is properly done, as subsequent complaints are generally
futile. — Parcel Post, see p. xix.
f. Theatres. Clubs. Churches. Schools.
Theatres. At the Khedivial Opera House (PI. C, 3 ; p. 51) a French or
Italian opera company performs in the winter season (chiefly grand opera).
Box office open 9-12 and 2-5; boxes dear (evening-dress compulsory; closed
boxes for Moslem ladies). — Thi&tre Printania (PI. B, 3), Shari' Elfi Bey
(French touring companies; comedies and operettas). — Thidtre Abbas (f\.
B, 2), Shari' Kantaret ed-Dikkeh (cinematograph performances). — Kursaal,
Casino de Paris, two variety theatres in the Shari"lmad ed-Din. — Summer
Thkatee, adjoining the Kasr en-Nil Terrace at the Ka.«r en-Nil Bridge. —
Baedekke's Egypt. 7th Edit. 3
42 Route 4. CAIRO. Practical
English Military Band on Tues. &. Frid. evenings during the summer in
the Ezbekiyeh Garden. — Shadow Plats (Khaiydl ed-lHll; comp. p. xxvii)
may be seen in the disreputable quarter of the Fish Market (El-Was'a ; p. 52),
in a small cafe belonging to a certain Shehata Hamam (Sbari- Bir Hommos).
As the performances, which begin at about 9 o'clock in the evening and
last for several hours, take place only two or three times a week, trav-
ellers should ascertain the programme beforehand.
Scientific Societies. The Khedivial Oeographical Society (PI. A, 5; Shari'
Sheikh Yusiif ; p. 53), founded on the instigation of Prof. G. Schweinfurth,
the celebrated African traveller, possesses a library, a reading-room, and
a small ethnographical and geographical museum (open daily except Sun. &
Frid., 8-2; two rooms, in the second a collection of maps-, secretary, Gail-
lardot-Bey); president, Dr. Abbate - Pasha. — Inslitut Egyptien (PI. A, 5;
p. 53), with a library; president, Yacoub Artin-Pasha. — Inslitut Frangais
d'' Archiologie Orieutale (p. 53), with an oriental library and a printing-press.
— German Imperial Institute for the Sludy of Egyptology (at Gezireh, p. 79),
with an Egyptological library; director, Prof. Ludwig Borchardt. — SociiU
Internationale de Midecine ; president. Dr. Comanos-Pasha. — SociM Khidiviale
de Midecine; president, Dr. Abbas-Bey Hilmi. — Colleges. Azftar University
(p. 55); Universiti Egyptienne (p. 52); School of Law (PI. C, 4; English and
French sections); School of Medicine (p. 40); Polytechnic School (p. 80); several
Training Colleges (comp. p. 53).
Cluhs. The Club Mohammed Aly (PI. A, 4), Shari^ Suleiman Basha, is
fitted up in the English style (introduction necessary). — Turf Club (PI.
B, 3), Shari' el-Maghrahi 12. — Automobile Club, Shari' el-Madabegh 25. —
Khedivial Sporting Club, at Gezireh (p. 79), Ileliopolis Sporting Club, at Helio-
polis Oasis (p. 119), botli with golf-links (18 holes) and cricket, tennis, and
polo grounds. — Ileliopolis Racing >'lub . at Heliopolis Oasis (p. 119). —
British Recreation Club (PI. A, 3), Shari"^ 'Abbas.
Churches. Anglican: All Saints'' (PI. B, 3), Shari' Bulak (chief services
at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m.); St. Mary''s (PI. A, 5), Kasr ed-Dubara. — Presby-
terian: St. Andrew's (PI. A, 3), at the so-called' Abu'l 'Ela Level Crossing
(services at 10.3 ) a.m. and 6.15 p.m.). — American Service in the American
Mission (PI. B, C, 3; at 6 p.m.). — French Protestant Church (PI. A, 3). —
(ierman Protestant Church (PI. A, 3). — Roman Catholic. Eglise de VAssomp-
tion (PI. D, 3), Shari' el-Banadkia 2, in the Muski, with branch-churches
in the Shari' 'Imad ed-Din (St. Joseph's; PJ. B, 4) and at Bulak (La Vierge
du Carmel); Jesuit Church, Shari' 'Abbas, in the College de Faggala; Church
of the Mission of Central Africa (Eglise du Sacri-Coeur), Shari' Deir el-Benat
(PI. A, B, 3). — Orthodox Greek Church of St. Nicholas (PI. D, E, 3, 4), in
the Hamzawi (p. 58). — Coptic Catholic Church (PI. D, 3) and Coptic Orthodox
Church (PI. C, 2); service on Sun. at 10 a.m., on Christmas Day and the
Sat. of Holy Week at 10 p.m. — New Synagogue (PI. B, 3), Shari' el-Maghrabi.
The Jews here are of two sects, the Talmudists and the Karaites, the
former being by far the more numerous. Most of the synagogues are in
the Jewish quarter (Derb el-Yehiid ; PI. D, 3).
Schools. St. Mary''s English School (comp. PI. A, 5), in the Ka.sr ed-Du-
bara, Shari' Ka.sr el-'Aini, and the Church Missionary Society School^ at 'Ab-
basiyeh (p. 78), both for natives. English School for British boys and girls
in Dean's Buildings, Shari' Geziret Bedran (PI. A, B, 1). — The six Schools
of the American Mission (PI. B, C, 3) have their sphere of operations among
all classes and creeds. The American Mission College for Girls, Shari' 'Ab-
bas 4, is attended chiefly by Copts. — The German School (next the Prot.
church, PL A, 3) is patronized by all nationalities and sects. There is
another German school, adjoining the Bab el-Liik Station, kept by the
Sisters of San Carlo Borromeo. — Besides these there are a Lycie Frangais
(PI. B, 4), several ColUges des Frires (Rom. Cath.), an Ecole des Soeurs du
Sacri-Coeur (school for girls), an Institution des Dames du Bon-Pasteur (p. 78),
a College de la Ste. Famille (school of the Jesuits), and a School for the Blind
at 'Ezbet ez-Zeitun (p. 120; adm. on Thurs., 2-4). — The Ministry of Edu-
cation maintains at Cairo 13 Primary Schools (11 for boys and 2 for girls)
and 3 Secondary Schools for boys. For the elementary schools, see p. 49
Notes.
CAIRO. 4. Route. 43
g. Sights and Disposition of Time.
Unbelii'vers are admitted by ticket (2 pias.) to most of the Mosqiiei.
the restoration of which has Id'en taken in hand hy a Comiti de Conser-
vation des Monuments de I'Art Arabe (in the Arabian Museum, p. 62), and
to the Tombs of the Mamelukes, except on Frid. and at the time of the
midday prayer (about u.ion) and on festivals. On leaving the mosques
•/o pias. bakshish should be given for the use of the slippers.
1st Day. Forenoon Tour of inspection in the immediate neighbour-
hood of the Ezbtkiyeh (p. 51); then walk or drive through the Muski and
to the Bazaars (most animated on Mon. & Thurs. ; pp. 53-G2). — After-
niion (by cab); to the 'Tombs of the Calip/is (p. Ill) and the 'Citadel, with
the mos(iue of Mohammed AH ('View of Cairo; pp. 68, 69), returning (by
tramway if preferred) via the Shari' Mohammed 'Ali (p. 62).
2nd Day. Forenoon: 'Egyptian Museum (p. 80). — Afternoon: Mosques
of "Sultan Hasan (p. 66), '/to Tuliln (view; p. 71), and "Kdlt Bey (p. 73).
3kd Dat. -Pyramids of Gi~eh (p. 123), which may be seen in the course
of a forenoon if necessary.
4tu Dat. Forenoon : ■'El-Azhar Mosqne (p. 55), Mosques of Ghiiri (p. 59)
and 'Muaiyad (p. 59), the Bab Ztiueileh (p. 60), and the 'Bookbinders'" House
(p. 59) ; spare time may be spent in the Kazaars (pp. 53-62). — Afternoon :
by railway, or by carriage along the 'Abbasiyeh road via Kubbeh, to Matd-
riyeh (Old ileliopolis, p. 120); or by the electric express line to Heliopolis
Oasis (p. 119).
5th Day. Forenoon : Second visit to the 'Egyptian Museum or the Ba-
zaars. — Afternoon: Ascent of the •Molcaltam (p. 116; view at sunset) and
visit to the monastery of the Bektashi Uervishes (p. 70). Those who take
the less common excursion to the Spring of Moses and the Smaller Petrified
Forest (p. 117), returning by the Mokattam, must start early.
6th Dat. Forenoon: 'Arabian Museu/it (p. (}2 ; closed on Frid.) and A'Aedma?
Library (\^. 64). — Afternoon : Across the Kusr en-NU Bridge (closed to traffic at
certain hours, see p. 79) to Gezireh (p. 79) and the Zoological Gardens (p. 80).
7th Day. I)y railway (luncheon should be brought) to Bedrashein
and thence on donkey-back to Memphis and 'Sakkdra (pp. 142 et seq.). It
is well worth while to ride via Abusir (p. 141) to the Mena House Hotel
and return thence to the town by tramway (comp. p. 142).
8th Day. Forenoon: 'Muristdn KalAun(\>.lb), mosques of *Jfo^<ammed
en-NAsir (p. 76) and Hakim (p. 77),' 'Bab en- Nasr (p. 77). — Afternoon
(cab, tramway, or railway) : ROda (p. 105) and "O/d Cairo (p. 106), with the
Coptic churches and the mosque of Amr (p. 109); also, if time permit, the
H6sh el-Bdsha and the Tombs of the Mamelukes (p. 115), after which we re-
turn by the Place Saladin (p. '68).
9tu Day. Barrage du Nil (p. 122), either by railway (from the Cen-
tral Station; luncheon should be taken) or (preferable) by steamer.
10th Day. To AbuBodsh (p. 139) or to Abnsir (p. 141), if the latter has not
already been visited on the way back from"Sakkara (see above, Day 7).
The Egyptian Museum (p. 80), the Arabian Museum (p. 62), the El-Azhar
Mosque (p. 55), and the Bazaars deserve repeated visits.
For the Mohammedan Festivals, see p. xcv. On account of the crowd
ladies should not attend these except in a carriage. During the festivals
unbelievers are not admitted to the mosques.
Cairo, El-Kdhira, or Ma-ir (Misr) el-Kdhira, or simply Masr, is
situated in 30° 4' N. latitude and 31°'l7' E. longitude, on the
right bank of the Nile, about 12 M. to the S. of the so-called 'cow's
belly', tl)e point where the stream divides into the Kosetta and Da-
mietta arms. It has not inaptly been styled 'the diamond stud oti
the handle of the fan of the Delta'. On the E. side of the city, which
covers an area of 11 sq. M., rise the barren, reddish Mokattam Hills
(p. 116), which form the commencement of the eastern desert. On
3*
44 Eoute 4. CAIRO. History.
the W. the city reaches the bank of the river and the island of
Gezireh and has entirely ahsorbed the suburl) of Btilak (p. 78).
Cairo is by far the largest city in Africa, as well as in the
Arabian regions. It is the residence of the Khedive and of the
principal authorities and has a governor of its own. In 1907 the
population was returned as 654,476, including the suburb of Hel-
wan. This was inclusive of about 53,000 Europeans, most of whom
were Greeks (19,419) and Italians (13,296). The native Egyptian
population consists of 546,328 townspeople and 4548 Beduins. The
otlier Ottoman subjects include 10,546 Turks, 14,539 Syrians, 226
Arabs, and 4205 Armenians, besides whom there are 18, 097 Sudanese
negroes of various tribes, Persians, Hindoos, etc. The great major-
ity of the inhabitants are Mohammedans (529,877), while there are
36,605 orthodox and 3026 Catholic Copts, 22,599 adherents of the
Greek Church, 20,545 Roman Catholics, 20,281 Jews, 13.720 oriental
Christians of various sects, and 6867 Protestants.
History of Cairo. At a very remote period a city lay on the
E. bank of the Nile, opposite the great pyramids, and was called by
the Egyptians Khere-ohe., or 'place of combat', because Horus and Seth
were said to have contended here (p. cxliv). This formed a kind of
suburb of Heliopolis. The Greeks named it Babylon, probably in
Imitation of the Egyptian name of the island of Roda, viz. Per-hapi-n-
On or the 'Nile City of On' (Heliopolis). The citadel of this town
(p. 100) was fortified by the Romans and under Augustus became tlie
headquarters of one of the three legions stationed in Egypt. In 641
A.D. Babylon was captured by 'Amr ibn el- As, the general of Caliph
Omar, who established a new capital of the country to the N. of the
fortress, extending as far as the Gebel Yeshkur (p. 71). This, named
Fustdt (Lat. fossatum = surrounded by trenches), was, like Egypt
itself, also called Misr or Masr el-Fustdt by the Arabs; its present
name of Old Cairo (Masr el-'Attka or Masr el-Kadlmeh) was of later
introduction. A mosque was built on the site of the conqueror's
tent. When, after the fall of the Omaiyades in 750 A.D. , Fustat,
with the exception of the great mosque, was burned to the ground
a new residence was built still farther to the N. by the Abbaside
governors, and around this sprang up the new quarter of El-' Askar.
The town was extended to the N.E. as far as the base of the citadel
by Ahmed ibn Tultin, who erected the quarter of El-Katd'i' (Katd'-
fyeh). Ahmed's splendour -loving son Khumdraweih embellished
the town with lavish magnificence. The modern city of Cairo was
founded by Gohar, the general of the Fatimite Caliph Mu'izz, after
the conquest of Egypt in 969 A.D. He erected a residence for the
Caliph and barracks for the soldiers commanded by him to the N.
of El-Kata'i'. At the hour when the foundation of the walls was
laid the planet Mars, which the Arabs call Kahir, or 'the victorious',
crossed the meridian of the new city, and Mu'izz accordingly named
Hhtorij.
CAIKO. 4. Route. 45
the place El-Kdhira. Its N. and its S. limits are to-day marked by
the Bab el-Futuh (p. 77) and the Bab Zuweileh (p. 60) respectively.
In 973 Mu'izz took up his permanent residence in the new city of
Cairo. A new period of prosperity began nnder the Aiynbides.
Saladin endeavoured to unite the still separated cities of Cairo and
Fustllt by means of a common wall, which, however, was never
finished, and in 1179 he founded the citadel. Under his luxurious
and extravagant successors Cairo was greatly extended and mag-
nificently embellished, and in the 14th cent, it reached its zenith.
At that period, however, it was fearfully devastated by the plague,
as it had been on former occasions (^e.g. in 1065 and in 1295) and
was also several times subsequently (especially in 1492, when
about 12,000 people are said to have been carried off by it in one
day). The town suffered severely in other ways also, and indeed its
whole history, so far as recorded, like that of the sultans and the
Mamelukes themselves, seems to have presented an almost con-
tinuous succession of revolutions, rapine, and bloodshed. As most
of the Mameluke sultans who resided in the citadel died a violent
death, so the reign of almost every new potentate began with bitter
and sanguinary contests among the emirs for the office of vizier,
while but few reigns were undisturbed by insurrections in the
capital. During the third re'gime of En-Ndsir (1293-1340), who had
been twice deposed and as often recovered his throne, a persecution
of the Christians took place at Cairo. The churches which had been
built in the capital and elsewhere were closed or demolished,
while the Christians themselves were so ill-treated and oppressed,
especially in the reign of Sultan Sdlih (1351-54), that many of them
are said to have embraced Islamism. In 1366 and 1367, in the reign
of Sultan Sha'bdn, sanguinary conflicts took place in the streets of
Cairo between hostile parties of Mamelukes, and in 1377 Sha'ban
himself was tortured and strangled in the citadel. Even greater
disorders attended the dethronement of Sultan Barkulc (1389), when
the wildest anarchy prevailed at Cairo, the convicts escaped from
their prisons, and in concert with the populace plundered the houses
of the emtrs and the public magazines. The following year another
rebellion among the Mamelukes restored Barkiik to the throne.
Scarcely, however, had he closed his eyes and been succeeded by
Farag (1399), when the Mamelukes again revolted and renewed con-
flicts took place for possession of the citadel, during which the city
was partly plundered. Similar scenes were repeated on almost every
••liange of government. The turbulence of the Mamelukes, who
were always treated with too much consideration by the sultans,
became more and more unbearable; they robbed the people in the
markets and assaulted citizens in the pjiblic streets.
On Jan. 26th, 1517, the Osman sultan <Seitm /. , after having
gained a victory in the neighbourhood of Heliopolis (p. 120), en-
tered the city. Tumdn Bey, the last Mameluke sultan, was taken
46 Route 4. CAIRO. Street Scenet.
prisoner and executed (p. 61). Selira caused tlie finest marble
columns which adorned the palace in the citadel to be removed to
Constantinople. Under the Turks few new buildings were erected
in Cairo and the city was freely exposed to the exactions of the
soldiery, but it still remained a busy and brilliant provincial capital.
— After the Battle of the Pyramids (p. 79) in 1798 Cairo was oc-
cupied by Bonaparte, who established his headquarters here for
several months. On his return to France Kl^er was left as com-
mander-in-chief of the French troops at Cairo, where he was assass-
inated on June 14th, 1800. In 1801 the French garrison under
Eelliard, being hard pressed by the grand-vizier, was compelled to
capitulate. On August 3rd, 1805, Mohammed All, as the recognized
pasha of Egypt, took possession of the citadel, which for the last
time witnessed a bloody scene on March 1st, 1811 (comp. p. 68).
Under Ismd'U the neighbourhood of the EzbeMyeh (p. 51) was re-
modelled, the great thoroughfare known as the Shari' Clot Bey and
Shari' Mohammed 'Ali was formed, and the new suburb of Isma'Utyeh
was begun to the S.W. of the Ezbekiyeh. To the N. of the last the
Tauffktyeh was added under Tauftk. The insurrection of Arabi in
1882 (p. cxxiii) scarcely affected Cairo.
Comp. 'The Story of Cairo', by Stanley Lane-Poole, iu the 'MediffiViU
Town Series' (2nd edit. ; London, 1906) ; 'Oriental Cairo , by Douglas Sladen
(illus. ; 2nd edit., London, 1913; 7s. Qd.); 'Cairo and its Environs", bv
A. 0. Lamplotigh and R. Francis (illus. ; London, 1909; 20.S.) ; 'The City ot
the Caliphs', by E. A. Reynolds-Bnll (lioston, 1897; 12«. 6rf.); TyndaWs book
mentioned on p. olxxxix ; and 'Cairo, Jeni.salem, and Damascus'', bv D. S.
Margoliouth (illus.; London, 1907; 20s.).
The **Street Scenes presented by the city of the Caliphs admir-
ably illustrate the whole world of oriental fiction and produce an
indelible impression on the uninitiated denizen of the West. This
oriental life seems to feel the atmosphere of the newer quarters
uncongenial, and it must therefore be sought for in the old Arabian
quarters, where the streets are so narrow that there is hardly room
for two riders to pass and the projecting balconies of the harems
with their gratings often nearly meet. The busy traffic in the prin-
cipal streets presents an 'interminable, ravelled, and twisted string
of men, women, and animals, of walkers, riders, and carts of every
description. Add to this the cracking of the drivers' whips, the
jingling of money at the table of the changers established at every
corner of the street, the rattling of the brazen vessels of the water-
carriers, the moaning of the camels, braying of donkeys, and bark-
ing of dogs, and you have a perfect pandemonium'. It is not, how-
ever, until the traveller has learned to distinguish the various indi-
viduals who throng the streets, and knows their different pursuits,
that he can thoroughly appreciate his walks or rides.
From a very early period it has been customary for the Arabs to
distins:uish their different sects, families, and dynasties by the
colour of their Turbans. And the custom still prevails to a certain
street Scenes. CAIRO. 4. Route. 47
extent. The 'Sherifs', or descendants oftlie prophet, now frequently
wear white turbans, though originally they wore green, the colour
of the prophet. Green turbans are now worn by the Mecca pilgrims
of a year's standing. The various orders of dervishes are similarly
distinguished; the Rifa'iyeh wear black, dark-blue, or bluish-green
turbans, the Ahmediyeh red, the Kadiriyeh white. The 'Ulama, or
clergy and scholars, usually wear a very wide, evenly folded turbaii
of light colour. The orthodox length of a believer's turban is seven
times that of his head, being equivalent to the whole length of his
body, in order that the turban may afterwards be used as the wearer's
winding-sheet, and that this circumstance may familiarize him with
the thought of death. Many Mohammedans now, however, wear
European dress or adopt a semi-European, semi-oriental costume;
a common head-gear is the red tarhiLsh (erroneously known as a fez
by most Europeans). Little difference is now observable between
the costume of the Copts, Jews, and other oriental 'unbelievers' and
that of the Moslem Egyptians, except that the Coptic priests usually
wear a black turban.
The Women of the poorer and rustic classes wear nothing but a
black gown and a veil. Their ornaments consist of silver, copper,
glass, or bead bracelets, earrings, and anklets, while their chins,
arms, and chests are often tatooed with blue marks. Similar tatooing
is common also among the men. In Upper Egypt nose-rings also
are frequently seen. The women of the upper classes are never so
handsomely dressed in the streets as at home. When equipped for
riding or walking they wear a silk cloak, with very wide sleeves
(toh or sableh), over their home attire. They don also the barkxi\ or
veil, which consists of a long strip of muslin, covering the whole
of the face except the eyes and reaching nearly to the feet. Lastly
they put on the habara, a kind of mantle, which in the case of
married women consists of two breadths of glossy black silk. The
Coptic, Jewish, and Syrian women wear the same costume, but are
generally unveiled. The wealthier ladies, who drive in their car-
riages attended by eunuchs, usually veil their faces up to their eyes
with thin white gauze after the fashion of Constantinople. Egyp-
tian women colour their eyelashes and eyelids dark, and their finger
and toe nails with henna , which gives them a brownish-yellow
tint. (Circumcision, weddings, and funerals, see pp. xciii et seq.)
Amid this busy throng of men and animals resound the warn-
ing shouts of coachmen, donkey -attendants, and camel -drivers.
The words most commonly heard are — ^Tiglak, riglak\ ^shimdlak\
'yenunak', 'u'u, u'a. As a rule, these warnings are accompanied
by some particularizing title. Thus, '^riglak yii musyii'' (monsieur),
or Wiglak yd khawaga' ('thy foot, sir', i.e. 'take care of your foot' ;
khawaga is the usual title given to Europeans by the Arabs and is
said to have originally meant 'merchant' only); Hvishshak yd gada''
('thy face, young man'); 'shimdlak yd sheikh^ ('to thy left, 0
48 Route 4.
CAIRO.
Street Semes.
chief'}; '■yeminik yd pinf ('to thy right, girl'); 'dahrik yd sitC
('thy back, lady'); 'j/<2 'arUsa' (bride); 'j/a shertf (descendant
of the prophet) ; 'j/a efendi" (the title for a native gentleman). —
Beggabs are very numerous at Cairo, most of them being blind.
They endeavour to excite compassion by invoking the aid of Allah :
'yd Mohannin yd RabV ('0 awakener of pity, 0 Master'); 'tdlib
min Alldh hakk lukmet 'eish' ('I seek from my Lord the price of a
morsel of bread'); ^ana deif Alldh wa'n-nehi ('I am the guest of
God and of the Prophet'). The usual answer of the passer-by is
"al AUdh\ or '■Alldh yehannin 'aleik' ('God will have mercy on thee'),
or '■Alldh ya'tik' ('God give thee'; comp. p. xxiv).
The Sakka, or water-carrier, with his goatskin of water, carried
either by himself or by a donkey, still plies his trade in Cairo
although the water- works supply every house in the city, as
well as the public sebils (p. clxxxii), with water, and though on
many of the houses there are brass tubes through which passers-by
may take a draught from the main pipes. The Hemali also, wlio
belong to one of the orders of dervishes (p. xci), are engaged in
selling water, which they flavour with orange-blossom {zahrj, while
others use liquorice ('erksus) or raisins (zehih). There are also
numerous itinerant vendor.? of fruit, vegetables, and sweetmeats,
which to Europeans usually look very uninviting. The Rammdl or
soothsayer, squatting by the side of the road, offers to tell the fortune
of the passer-by by consulting the sand. Lastly, there are itinerant
Cooks (tabbakMn, sing, tabbdkh). with portable kitchens, who sell
small meat puddings, fish, and other comestibles.
Most of the Arabian Barbers have their shops open to the street.
Besides cutting the hair of their customers thoy may be seen shav-
ing their heads, an art in which they are very expert.
Street Scenes.
CAIRO.
4. Route. 49
Several times during the day and also at night the solemn and
sonorous cry of the muezzin, summoning the faithful to prayer (see
p. Ixxxvii) , reverberates
from the tops of the minarets
(mctdna). When the shops
are shut the watchmen
(bauwdb) place their heds
(serir) of palm-twigs in the
streets outside the entrances
and prepare to spend the
night there; sometimes they
have only mats or rugs to
sleep on. The street-traffic
ceases in the Arab quarters
comparatively early, while
in the European districts it
goes on till nearly mid-
night. But during the
month of Ramadan it con-
tinues throughout the
whole night even in the
Arab quarters; the story-
tellers (p. xxvi] in the cafe's then have many listeners, while
shadow-plays (p. xxvii) and broad farces attract others.
The traveller will ob-
serve the Schools (kultdb),
of which there are 193 in
Cairo, with 363 teachers
and 11,925 scholars, and
one of which is attached to
almost every public foun-
tain (sebil; p. clxxxii). He
will find it very amusing
to watch the ^fc2, or school-
master, teaching his pu-
pils with the aid of ad-
monitions and blows, while
the boys themselves recite
verses of the Koran with a
swaying motion of their
bodies (a practice supposed
to 'strengthen the memory')
or bend over their wooden
or metal writing tablets.
They do not fail, however,
to find time for the same
tricks as European school-
50 Route 4. CAIRO. Bazaars.
boys. It is not advisable to watch the flki too closely, as he is
easily disconcerted.
These schools, mostly founded by endowments of the Wakf Administra-
tion (p. Ixxxvi), are now managed by the Ministry of Education. The mere
reading and recitation of verses from the Kuran being in itself considered
a meritorious act, the great object of these schools is to teach the pupils
to recite the Koran by heart. Although the language is often antiquated
and obscure, no explanations are given, so that the boy who knows the
whole book by heart usually understands but little of it. After learning
the alphabet the pupil is taught to write a few simple words, such as the
names of his friends, and then learns the ninety-nine 'beautiful' names
of Allah, a knowledge of vyhioh is necessary to enable him to repeat the
ninety-nine prayers of the Mohammedan rosary (sebha). The boy is next
made to learn the Fdtha (p. Ixxxvii), or first chapter (sureh) of the Koran,
after which he proceeds to learn the last, the last but one, and the others
in the same inverted order, until he reaches the second, the reason being
that the chapters gradually diminish in length from the second to the last.
The course of study frequently takes 4-6 years and its completion is com-
memorated by the celebration of the K/talmeh, a family festival, to which
the schoolmaster is invited.
The Bazaars i of Cairo, though inferior to those of Damascus
and Constantinople , present to the European traveller many novel
features and many interesting traits of oriental character. As is
the universal custom in the East, shops of the same kind, with
their workshops, are congregated together in the same quarter,
named sometimes after a mosque but more usually after the wares
there sold, e.g. Silk en-Nahhastn, bazaar of the coppersmiths, Silk
el-Khordag7yeh, bazaar of the ironmongers. Most of the bazaars con-
sist of narrow, and often dirty, lanes, generally covered over with
an awning to shade them from the sun, and flanked with shops about
6 ft. wide. These shops (dukkCin) are open towards the street, and
in front of each is a mastaba or seat on which the customer takes his
place and on which the shopkeeper offers his prayers at the appointed
hours. These lanes usually enclose a massive storehouse of con-
siderable size (khan), consisting of two stories. Several such khans
together form a quarter of the city (hdra). These were formerly
closed at night by massive, iron-mounted gates, still in some cases
preserved, though no longer used.
The principal market-days are Monday and Thursday, when
the traffic in the narrow streets is so great that it becomes difficult
or impossible to traverse them. Pedlars are seen forcing their way
through the crowd, shouting at the top of their voices. So, too, we
observe coffee-sellers, water-carriers, sweetmeat-vendors, and others,
elbowing their way.
In walking through bazaars and other streets the traveller will
be interested in observing how industriously and skilfully the
Artisans work, with tools of the most primitive description. The
turners (Kharrat), for example, are equally adroit with hand and foot.
+ Bdzdr is properly speaking a Persian word, the Arabic equivalent
lor which is sUk. The magazines of the wholesale merchants, with their
large courts, are called wakk&leh or wakkala, which the Franks have
corrupted to Occaleh or Okella (comp. p. clx.xxvi).
1. Ezbektyeh. CAIRO. 4. Route. 51
European travellers who purpose making large purchases in the ba-
zaars must arm themselves beforehand with the most inexhaustible pa-
tience. Time has no value for an Oriental, and that fact must be taken
into the calculation. Everything must be haggled for, sometimes in the most
obstinate fashion. When the customer knows the proper price and offers
it, the dealer will remark '■shicaii/eh' tit is little), but will close the bar-
gain. Sometimes the shopkeeper sends for cotfee or tea from a neighbouring
coffee-house in the course of the bargaining. If no satisfactory agreement
can be reached, the customer should calmly proceed nn his way. Every step
he takes will lower the demands of the obdurate deab-r. It is advisable
to offer at first rather a lower sum than the purchaser is willing to pay,
in order that the offer may be raised. A common phrase in the cere-
monious East is •khudu/i balasIC (take it for nothing), which, of course, is
never seriously meant. Foreigners, however, must be prepared to pay
more than natives. Dragomans and commissionnaires usually have a private
understanding with the dealer, so that to make purchases in their company
is to add 10-20 per cent to the price. The street-hawkers often ask as much
as 5, 10, 15, or even 20 times the value of their wares. Skill in getting
the bettor of a purchaser is in the eyes of an Oriental merely a desirable
business accomplishment.
1. The Ezbekiyeh and the New Quarters.
The ceutral point of the foreign quarter, between the old Arab-
ian Cairo and the new town built in the European style within
the last 50 years, is the —
*Ezbekiyeli Garden (PL C, 3), or simply the Ezbekhjeh, on the
site of the former Ezbekiyeh Lake and named after the heroic Emir
Ezbek, the general of Sultan Kait Bey (1468-96; p. cxix), who
brought the general and son-in-law of Bayazid I. as a captive to
Cairo. A mosque, now vanished, was erected here in 1496 in honour
of his victory. The fine gardens, which have several entrances (adm.
i/o pias.), were laid out in 1870 by M. Barillet, formerly chief gar-
dener to the city of Paris. They cover an area of 20i/2 acres and
contain a variety of rare and beautiful trees and shrubs. Crows and
kites are here very numerous. In the centre of the gardens is a
roller skating rink. Military bands, see p. 42.
To the S. of the Ezbekiyeh lies the Opera House (p. 41), between
which and the Hotel Continental stretches the Place de l' Opera
(M7dan et-Teatro; Pl. B, C, 3), with an equestrian statue of Ibrahim
Pasha (Arab. EL-Husdn). Thence the Shari' 'Abdin leads to the
S. to the Midan 'Abdin^ on the left side of which lies the Khedivial
Palace (PI. C, 4, f)), and on the right the Egyptian Army Barracks.
Between the Ezbekiyeh and the Opera House the Shari' et-Teatro
leads to the small Midan Ezbek, with the building of the Inter-
national Tribunal (Tribunaux Mixtes; PI. C, 3^ and the Credit Lyon-
nais (p. .37). Parallel with this street runs the Shari' Tahir, on the
right side of which are the building of the Caisse de la Dette Pub-
lique, the Oeneral Post Office (PI. C, 3 ; p. 37), and the Headquarters
of the Fire Department. Both these streets end at the" 'Atajba el-
Khape.*^, a point of intersection of many tramways (p. 38), whence
the Muski (p. 53) leads to the E.
52 Route 4. CAIRO. /. Ismd'Uiyeh ^ Taufiktyeh.
Adjoining the Ezbekiyeh on the N.E. is the small Mi<Mn el-
Khdzinddr (PI. C, 3; Shari' Clot Bey, see p. 78). The narrow
lanes to the N.E. lead to the so-called Fish Market (El-Was' a), one
of the most disreputable quarters of Cairo.
Westwards from the Ezbekiyeh and to the W. of the Shari' Kamel
and the Shari' 'Ahdin , as far as the Nile and the Shari' 'Abbas,
extend the quarters of IsmS-'iliyeh and Taufikiyeh. — The Ismd'-
Uiyeh was begun by the Khedive Isma'il (p. oxxii), who desired to
rival the modern quarters of Paris and presented sites here gratui-
tously to anyone who would undertake to erect on each a house
worth at least 30,000 fr. within eighteen months. This is still the
fashionable quarter as well as the seat of the European trade. Several
of the principal hotels and banks are situated here, also the English
church, the ministerial offices, most of the consulates, and many
palaces of European, Levantine, and Egyptian grandees. Isma'il-
iyeh and Taufikiyeh are separated from each other by the wide and
busy Shari' Bulak, which, beginning on the W. at the Ezbekiyeli,
leads to the quarter of Billak (p. 78) and the new Biilak Bridge
(p. 79). To the left stands the Church of All Saints (PI. B, 3; p. 42).
— To the S. of the Shari' Bulak, and parallel with it part of the way,
run the Shari' el - Maghrabi and the fashionable Shari' el-
Manakh. Farther to the S. is the Shari' Kasr en-Nil, leading
from the Shari' 'Abdin (p. 51) to the Midan Suleiman Basha
(PI. A, B, 4), with the monument of Suleiman Pasha, while at the
N.E. corner stands the Savoy Hotel (p. 35). Beyond this point the
street leads past the handsome Palace of Count Zogheb, built by
Herz- Pasha in the Arabic style, to the barracks of Kasr en- Nil
(PL A, 4) and the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities (p. 80).
The Shaki' Suleiman Basha (PL A, B, 3, 4) leads from the Midan
Suleiman Basha to the Middn Ismd'Uiyeh, where it joins the Shari'
el-Kubri, leading to the Kasr en-Nil Bridge. Farther on the street
takes the name of Shari' Kasr el-'Aini. On its right side are the
English Church of St. Mary (p. 42) and a handsome quarter erected
on the site of the Palace Kasr ed-Dubdra, including the British and
the United States Agencies [PI. A, 5). On the E. side of the street
is the Vniversite Egyptienne (PI. A, 5), an institution founded in
1 908 on the European system, with professors of all nationalities
(123 students in 1911-12, including 43 women). Farther on, on
the same side, are the building containing the Ministry of Public
Works and the War Office (entr. in the Shari' esh-Sheikh Rihan),
and the building of the Sudan Age7icy (p. 37). In the grounds sur-
rounding the ministerial building, to the N., is the —
Museum of Geology (PI. A, B, 5 ; open from Oct. to April 8.30-4,
at other seasons 7.30-1, on Sun. 8.30-12.30; closed on Frid. and
holidays). Catalogue (1905), 2^/2 pi^-S- Director, Dr. W. F. Hume.
The lower story contains petrified trees, (lint implements, and a col-
lection of dift'erent kinds of Egyptian stones and soil. On tlie upper floor
is an extensive collection of Egyptian fossils (upper eocene), found by
2. The Muiki. CAIRO. 4. Route. 53
Mr. Beadnell in the Libyan desert. In the centre room are three skulls
(preserved entire) of the Arsinoitherium Zittelii (a species of monster
rhinoceros; from theFaiyum); bones of the PalBeomastodon and Moerithe-
rium, the oldest known representatives of the order of pachydermata ; and
two complete specimens of a monster tortoise (Testudo Ammonia). In the
side -rooms are mineralo^ical and geognostic specimens (line auriferous
quartz) and a complete collection of the fossils characteristic of the various
geological formations of Egypt.
Adjoining the Museum are the Institut Egyptien (^p. 42) and the
Chemical Laboratory of the Survey Department ; in the S.W. corner
of the grounds is the Geographical Society (p. 42); and in the N.E.
angle, the Public Health Department Laboratory and the Bacterio-
logical Institute. At the E. end of the ministerial building is the
Office of the Department of Public Health (Services Sanitaires).
Farther on, on the left side of the Shari' Kasr el-'Aini, lie the
Education Office (Ministere de I'lnstruction Publique; PI. A, 6) and
the Nasrlyeh Training College. Behind the latter, in the Shari' el-
-Munira, is the French Institute of Oriental Archaeology (p. 42). The
continuation of the Shari' Kasr el-'Aini passes on the right side the
large Hospital of Kasr el-'Aini (PI. A, 7; p. 40), with the small Mosque
of the same name. — Thence to the M7dan Fumm el-Khallg and to
Old Cairo, see pp. 104 et seq.
2. The Muski and its Side Streets.
A visit to the chief £a;aa/.s Icomp. p. 50), to which this section is de-
voted, is so full of novelty and interest that the traveller will scarcely have
time to combine with the first visit the inspection of the Mosqves passed on
the way. — Both ladies and gentlemen, aided by the following description
and the plan of the town (p. 35), may plunge fearlessly into the thickest of
the crowd, especially if they do not mind taking an occasional wrong turning.
Tlie chief thoroughfare of the Arabian part of Cairo is the
* Muski (PI. C, D, 3), which begins at the square of El-'Ataba el-
Khadra (p. 51) and, with its continuations the Sikkeh el-Gedideh
(see below) and the Shari' esh-Sharawani (Pl.E, F, 3), traverses the
entire breadth of the old town (nearly 1 M.). This street has now to
a great extent lost its external oriental characteristics. The nu-
merous tobacco and cigar stores and emporiums of clothing present
quite a European exterior. But the oriental features of the trafflc
(p. 46) that surges up and down the street from morning till night
are still unchanged. At the end of the Muski, a little short of the
square known as Suk el-Kanto (PI, D, 3), we enter the old city of
the Fatimites (p. 44), the second wall of which, erected after 1074,
is still represented by the Bab el-Futuh and the Bab en-Nasr (p. 77),
its N. gates, and the Bab Zuweileh (p. 60), its S. gate. Its W.
boundary was the old canal of El-Khalig, now the Shari' Khalig el-
Masri (tramway No. 5, p. 38). — We follow the continuation of the
Muski, the Sikkbh el-Gbdideh (Rub Neuve), to the insignificant
Gdmi' el-Ashraf(Fl. E, 3 ; comp. p. 58), a mosque built by Sultan Bars
Bey in 1422. Here foot-passengers turn to the left (carriages go
54 Route 4. CAIRO. 2. The Miiski and
on to the next turning) into the long line of thoionghfare beginning
with the Shaii' el-Khordagtyeh, and at the first cross-street on the
right we enter a large covered bazaar, known as the Khan el-Khalili.
The KMn el-Zhallli (_P1. E, 3), still the centre of the market
traffic of Cairo, was founded in 1400 by Garkas el-Khalili, master
of the horse to Sultan Barkuk, on the site of a chateau of the Fati-
mites. It forms a distinct quarter of the city, and is intersected by
a main street and numerous cross-lanes, formed by long rows of
stalls of tradesmen and artisans, all covered over. Here are the
headquarters of the silk and carpet merchants and the vendors of
trinkets. We follow the main avenue, the Sikket el-Badistan,
which contains two graceful Arab gateways. In the first lane on the
left is the Bazaar of the Shoemakers, in which the red shoes of the
Arabs may be purchased. Farther on, to the right of the main street,
are some large Carpet Bazaars.
The prices of Carpels, like those of other oriental goods, are liable
to great fluctuation. As soon as a purchaser appears, the dealers spread
their wares over the whole court for his inspection. Patience and time
are essential for a satisfactory bargain (comp. p. 51). The black or white
tulle shawls, embroidered with gold and silver thread, are sold by the best
dealers by weight; the price varies from 3 to 6 mill, per dirhem (48.15 gr.
troy). Many of the so-called Damascene silks, and particularly the lighter
kuffiyehs in pleasing colours, are manufactured at Lyons and Crefeld.
Taking the second cross-lane on the right and passing through
an interesting Arab Gateway, with stalactite vaulting, inscriptions,
serpentine ornamentation, and a few mosaics, we enter the attrac-
tive Brass Bazaar (Shari' Khan el-Khalili). From this bazaar we
enter the Shari' esh-Sharawani (p. 53) or go on through the Sikket
ol-Badistan. Opposite the end of the latter, in the Mashhad el-
Hoseini, is the —
Gkmi' Seiyidna'l-Hosein or £1-Hasauein (PI. E, 3), the mosque
of the youthful Hosein, who fell at Kerbela in 680 A.D. in battle
against the enemies of his father Ali, son-in-law of the prophet,
who was slain in 661. Hosein is still highly venerated by Shiite
Mohammedans (p. xcii), particularly in Persia. The mosque (in-
accessible to non-Moslems) is of no architectural importance, while
it has been almost completely modernized, even to the introduction
of gas-lighting. The chief attraction is the mausoleum, which con-
tains the head of Hosein, said to have been brought to Cairo in a
green silk bag. This mosque is chiefly frequented by men on Thurs-
days and by women on Saturdays.
From the mosque we turn to the S., cross the Shari' esh-Shara-
wani obliquely, and enter the Suabi' el-Halwagi (PI. E, 3), which
is mainly occupied by the stalls of the Booksellers.
Most of the booksellers are also scholars, and their shops are the resort
of the learned world of Cairo. As the prices of books vary greatly in
accordance with the demand and other circumstances, and as there is no
such thing as a fixed publishing price, purchasers should always endea-
vour to ascertain beforehand the true value of any work they wish to
buy. As in the case of many other wares, the line between new and
its Side Streets. CAIRO. 4. Route. 55
second-band liooks is not so strictly drawn in the East as in Europe
The booksellers generally keep catalogues, several feet in length, to re-
fresh their memories regarding the state of their stock. The Koran, which
is shown very reluctantly to non-Moslems, is kept separate from the other
books. The books are piled up in a very inconvenient fashion. Many of
them are sold in loose sheets, in which case the purchaser should see that
the work is complete, as gaps are of frequent occurrence. The bindings
usually consist of leather or pasteboard. Valuable books are often kept
in cases of red sheepskin. — The workmanship of the bookbinders, who,
like other oriental artisans, work in the open street, is far inferior to
that of European productions. Red is their favourite colour.
We now follow the Sliari' el-Azbar, which leads to the left to
the main entrance of the Azhar Mosque.
The *GS.mi' el-Azhar [PI. E, '6, 4), the 'most blooming', the most
important monument of the Fatimite period, was completed in 970
A.D. hy Gohar, the vizier of the Fatimite Sultan El-Mu'izz, and here,
three years later, El-Mu'izz offered his first prayer after his entry
into Cairo. Admission, see p. 43; cameras are forbidden and the
visitor should carefully abstain from any manifestation of amuse-
ment or contempt. The mosque was converted into a University in
988 by Caliph El-' Aziz (p. cxv). The rectangular ground-plan of
the original building, almost entirely rebuilt by the Emir Salar
after an earthquake in 1303, is easily recognizable, but it has been
so frequently restored that no part of it can be said to date actually
from the Fatimite period except the central part of the sanctuary,
with its cupolas. Everything outside this rectangle is known posi-
tively to be of later date. The characteristic old ornamentation of
the arcades and cupolas in the sanctuary deserves special attention;
that of the walls has been for the most part renewed after vanished
patterns. The arcades of the court (sahn) were rebuilt under the
Khedive Taufik with scrupulous reproduction of the old style and
the retention of the old columns. — Tlie successive rulers of Egypt
have emulated each other in maintaining and enlarging this vener-
able building. In the 18th cent, the wealthy 'Abd er-Rahman Kihya
added four aisles to the sanctuary, and in more recent days Sa'id
Pasha and the Khedives Taufik and 'Abbas II. have been notable
benefactors of the mosque. 'Abbas II. erected a new building in
place of the dilapidated N.W. side of the mosque, and his neo-Arab
fagade is practically the only one the mosque boasts, the other sides
being all quite unpretentious and concealed in narrow lanes.
The university is con.sidered the most important in the territory
of Islam. Before the British occupation the average number of
students was 7600-7700, taught by 230 professors. After that
the numbers sensibly diminished, as no students came from the
former equatorial provinces of Egypt during the domination of the
Mahdi. In 1912, however, the numbers had again risen to 14,959
students and 587 teachers. Most of the students are natives of Egypt,
so that the Egyptian riwaks (p. 58; Upper Egypt, Lower Egypt,
Eastern Egypt) are the largest, each having several hundred students.
56 Route 4. CAIRO. 2. The Muski and
The nationality of the various groups of students may he learned
from the guide.
No lectures are delivered on Thurs. or during the fasting month of
Ramadan. When teaching, the professor (sheikh) sits cross-legged on a
straw-mat or chair and reads from a book placed on a desk (rahleh) before
him, explaining each sentence as he proceeds; or he directs one of the
more advanced students to read aloud, adding his owa explanations from
time to time. The students sit in a circle around the teacher, listening or
attentively taking notes. As soon as a student knovrs by heart and can
explain the whole of the book that is being studied by the class, the
sheikh makes an entry {Igdzeh, i.e. permission) in the student's copy of
the work , whereby authority to lecture in the faculty concerned is con-
ferred. But the student cannot avail himself of this permission until
he has passed the final examination , to which he may submit himself
after receiving an Igazeh in each of the subjects of examination.
The complete Cokricclum at the Azbar now lasts for 17 years. If the
student (mtigdwir) successfully passes the final examination at the end of
this period he receives the Shehadeh el-'AHmiynh, or 'diploma of learning',
which qualifies him to teach at the Azhar or other institutions of similar
standing {e.g. the mosque of Ahmed at Tanta, p. 33). At the end of
the eleventh year a preliminary examination is held, success in which
secures the Shehadeh d-Ahliyeh, a diploma qualifying for the minor offices
in the mosques and for the post of elementary teacher. The subjects
taught at the university fall into two classes : preparatory studies and
professional studies. The former embrace syntax (nahw), grammar (sarf)^
rhetoric (baldgha), logic (manlik), the art of poetry ('ardd and kQflyeli),
algebra (gibr) , arithmetic (hisdb) , and the proper mode of reciting tlie
traditions (tnustalah el-hadith). The professional subjects are theology
(kaldm)., jurisprudence ijikh; p. Ixxxvi), the explanation of the Koran
(tafsir), and the teaching' of the traditions {hadilh; p. Ixxxv). History,
geography, mathematics, and style are optional subjects. — The above list
of the subjects will serve to convey an idea of the intellectual condition
of Orientals at the present day. The most conspicuous defect of their
culture consists in the entire absence of independent thought, in conse-
quence of which they are the mere recipients of the knowledge of the
past. Their minds are thus exclusively occupied with the lowest grade of
intellectual work, their principal task consisting in the systematic arrange-
ment or encyclopfedic compilation of the knowledge handed down to them.
At the head of the university is the Sheikh el-Odmf, with an admin-
istrative committee of five. Control, especially in matters of finance,
is exercised by a Conseil Supt'rieur. Instruction is free ; the university
is supported by pious endowments, from which also bread and spending
money are provided for the students. Within the last few years numerous
'strikes' have taken place among the students in consequence of the
alleged misappropriation of the endowments by government. The income
is now ^E 28,900 in cash annually, besides 25,000 loaves of bread daily,
representing an annual addition of £E 18,250.
The principal entrance (PI. 1), where strangers receive a guide,
is on the N.W. side, and is called Bah el-Muzaiyinin, or 'Gate of the
Barbers', because the students used to have their heads shaved here.
To the right of this is the Mesgid Taibarsiyeh (PL 8), with a magni-
ficent mihrab, or prayer-recess , of 1309, and to the left are the
office of the steward (PL 9), in a restored mausoleum, and the
Zdwiyet el-lbtighawtyeh (PL 10), now used as a library and contain-
ing some rare MSS.
The long archway (PL 7), ending in a portal added by KaVt Bey
(by whom the adjacent minaret also was built), leads directly into
the large Sahn el- Gdmi', or mosque- court, enclosed by an arcade
its Side Streets.
CAIRO.
4. Route. 57
After Herz-Bet/.
Gates : 1. Bdb el-Muzaiijinin ('gate of the bai-hers'), on the W. ; 2. Bdh el-
Qdhargiiieh ('gate of the jewellers''), on the N. ; 3. Bdb es/i-Shorbeh ('soup
gate'), on the K.-, 4. Bdb es-Sa'dideh ('gate of the Upper Egyptians') ; 5. Bdb
esft-zSAauwdwi ('gate of the Syrians'); 6. Bdb el-Maghdrbeh ('gate of the North
West Africans'), these three on the S.
7. Archwait. S. Mesgid (mosque) Taibarsii/eh. 9. Steward's of/ice. 10. Zdwiyet
fl-Ibtighdw!veh (library). — LIwan el-Gami% now the principal hall for
instruction. — 11. Prayer-rece.ss of 'Abd er-Rahman Kihya. 12. Dome in
front of the old prayer-niche. 13. Tomb of 'Abd er-Rahman. 14. Zdwiyet
Odhargiyeh. 15. Sebil. 16. Court of Ablutions, with Meida in the centre
and latrines all round. — 17-27. Riwaks (or rooms for study). 17. Riwdlc
el-Atrdk (Turks from N. provinces of the empire)-, 18. Jiiwdk el-Maghdrbeh
(N.W, Africans); 19. .Staircase to tlie Itiwdk eth-Shauwdm (Syrians); 20.
Staircase to the Riwdk el-Baghdddiyin (natives of Baghdad) and to the Riwdk
e.l-HunHd (natives of India); 21. Riwdk el-Gabart (E. Africans from the
Somali coast, Zeila', Berbcra, and Tajurra); 22. Staircase to the Riicdk
el-Mekkiyin (natives of Mecca); 23. Riwdk esh-Shardkiceh (natives of the pro-
vince of Sharkiyeh) ; 24. A'ftrdi e2-i^as/'7jj!/«rt (UpperEgyptians fromFeshn);
25. Riwdk es-S'dddniyin (natives' of tlie Sudan) ; 2G. Riwdk el-Baldbiseh (natives
of Lower Egypt); 27. Riwdk el-Hariafiyeh (Hanefltes; see p. Ixxxvi). — 28.
Steps to the Terrace and to the Minaret of Ghuri. 29. Gate of the Okella
Kdit Bey (ruinous but interesting facade). — 30. Riwdk el-'Abbdii.
Bakdukek's Egypt. 7th I<;dit 4
58 Route d. CAIRO. 2. The Muski and
(restored), with Persian keel-arches, niches, medallions, and open-
work pinnacles.
The Sanctuary (Ltwan el-Gami"), with its nine aisles, now form-
ing the principal lecture-hall, has 140 marble columns (100 antique)
and covers an area of about 3600 sq. yds. The front and older part
is low in the ceiling. The part at the back, to which we ascend by
a few steps, has considerably higher arcades (restored). The hall is
imperfectly lighted. A staircase to the right of "^Abd er-Rahman's
pulpit (minbar) ascends to an upper story, which is assigned to
students from Mecca and Yemen, On the S. side is the Tomb of
'Abd er-Rahman (PI. 13). The N. side is bounded by the very
elegant little mosque of Zdwiyet Gohargtyeh (PI. 14; restored).
The ceilings of the Northern and of the Southern Llwan are
supported by double colonnades. The N. Liwan is adjoined by the
Court of Ablutions (PI, 16), with a basin in the centre.
The Lateral Liwans and many of the subsidiary buildings of
the mosque are set apart as sleeping or working apartments (riwaks,
literally 'galleries') for the use of students of particular countries or
of particular provinces of Egypt (comp, the Plan and its reference
numbers 17-27, p. 57). From the W, angle of the Great Court we
proceed to the Small Mosque {Riwdkel-'Abhdsi; PI, 30), built by
'Abbas n,, the reigning Khedive, One of its doors brings us back to
the Shari' el-Azhar.
Leaving the insignificant Mosque of Mohammed Bey Abu Dahab
(p, cxx) on the left, we follow the Shaui' es-Sanadikiyeh (PI. E, 3),
called also SUk es-SUddn or bazaar for wares from the Sudan (gum,
dum-palm nuts, etc), which leads direct to the Shari' el-Ashrafiyeh,
opposite the Mosque of Ashraf (p. 53).
From the Shari' el-Ashrafiyeh , on the left side of the Mosque of
Ashraf, the Shaei^ el-Hamzawi es-SeghIh (PI. E, 3j, with the bazaar of the
same name, leads to the W. The Suk el-Hamzawi is the bazaar of the
Christian merchants (Syrians and Copts), who vie with their Mohammedan
fellow-tradesmen in the exorbitance of their demands, and whose chief
wares are European calico, porcelain, and drugs (which last are oold in
nearly all the bazaars). This narrow winding street is prolonged to the
S. by the Shaei' el-Hamzawi el-KebIr, to the left of which (approached
by a side-lane) is the Orthodox Greek Church of St. Nicholas (PI. D, E, 3, 4).
— Just at the beginning of the Shari' el-Hamzawi es-Seghir we observe
on the left the covered Shdri' et-Tarh'yeh (PI.' E., 3), with' the Suk el-'Att&rln,
or spice -market, which is easily distinguished by its arom'atic odours.
The perfumes of Arabia, genuine and adulterated, wax-candles, and drugs
are the chief commodities here. Attar of roses is sold by weight at high
prices. The small bottles into which it is usually put contain only one
drop. Then follow the weavers and tailors. A small lane to the left
(named 'Atfet esh-Sharm) leads to the Ghuri Mosque (p. 59).
The Shari' et-Tarbiyeh is continued to the S. by the Shdri' el-Fah-
hdmin (PI. E, 3, 4), in which is the bazaar for wares from Tunis and
Algiers. We first observe drug-stalls and then magazines for light-coloured
woollen and other stuffs, Arabian rugs, etc. — We now proceed to the
left direct to the Shari' el -Ghuri (p. 59), or turn sharp to the right, then
sharp to the left, and pursue the same direction, parallel with the Shari
el-'^Akkadin (p. 59) and passing a number of shoemakers' stalls (bawdbishi),
its Side Streets. CAIRO. d. Boute. 59
till we come to a broader covered passage, which we follow to the right
for a few paces, and then take the first lane to the left. This lane is con-
tinued under the name of Shdri' el-Menaggidin and is inhabited chielly by
tailors, cloth-merchants, and dealers in undressed wool. A short abrupt
curve of this lane, to the left, then brings us to the ShdH' el-'Akkddin.
The Shari' EL-AsHEAFhEH forms the first part of a long line
of streets leading to the S. and farther on taking successively the
names of Shari' el-Ghuri, Shari' el-'Akkadin, and Sukkariyeh.
In the Sn.inf el-Ghuri the first things to catch our eye are the
beautiful facades of the medreseh and mausoleum of Sultan El-
GhOri (PI. E, 3, 4), which have so often been depicted by the brushes
of famous artists. The Medreseh, to the W. (r.), was finished in
1503 and has a minaret, inappropriately crowned with five modern
dwarf cupolas. The most notable features of the interior are the
beautiful pulpit and the tasteful marble panelling of the lower part
of the walls. Opposite the medreseh, on the E. side of the street,
is the Mausoleum, dating from 1504. The sultan, who fell in Syria
(p. ciix), is not, however, buried here. From the rectangular
vestibule we pass to the right into the oratory, covered by a dome.
From this a door leads into the mak'ad (restored), or hall in which
the sultan was wont to await the hour of prayer. To the left of the
vestibule lies a second chapel, now used as a school office. Adjacent is
a charming sebil with a school, projecting into the street (p. clxxxii).
To the E, of the Shari' el-'Akkadin lies the quarter of HQshkadam.
In its main street stands the "House of Gamal ed-Din ez-Zah'abi fNo. 6 \
PI. E,4j, president of the merchants, one of the best preserved of the earlier
Arabic private houses in Cairo. The building, generally known as the
'House of the Bookbinder.s', dates from 1637 (visitors knock ; 2 pias.).
Through a crooked passage (dirkeh) we reach the court of the salamlik,
or living-rooms of the owner, with two well-preserved facades. In the
S.W. corner is a flight of steps leading to the mak'ad. an open colonnade
with two arches. The inscription on the cornice gives information about
the building. Adjoining the mak^ad is an oriel window with mashra-
biyehs (p. clxxxv), whence the ladies of the harem could overlook the court.
Proceeding in a straight direction we enter the beautiful ka'a, or drawing-
room of the harem (p. clxxxv), adorned with fine mosaics. The middle and
lower-lying part of the room is covered with a wooden dome, and the flat
wooden ceiling of the other parts of the chamber is also very beautiful.
The Sukkariyeh (PI. E, 4) forms the bazaar for sugar, dried
fruits (niikl), fish, candles, and similar wares. On the left is the
modern marble Seb'd of Mohammed Ali, and on the right the —
**Gami' el-Muaiyad (PI. D, E,4), called also Garni' el-Ahmar
(/. e. 'the red mosque') after the adjoining Derb el-Ahmar (p. 61).
It was erected by Sultan Sheikh el-Mahmudi Muaiyad (p. cxviii),
of the dynasty of the Circassian Mamelukes, who had been defeated
in a rebellion against Sultan Farag and vowed that he would build
a mosque on this site if he wore released from prison. The mosque
was not finished till a year after the sultans death (1422). The
three massive walls, intended to enclose three new liwans, wre
erected during a thorough restoration in the second half of the
19th century (modern portions shaded grey on the ground -plan,
p. 60^. The bronze gate at the entrance (PI. 1), the handsomest
60 Route 4.
CAIRO.
2. The Muxki and
in Cairo, originally belonged to tlie mosque of Sultan Hasan
(p. 66), but was bought for the new mosque for 500 dinars. —
To the left of the vestibule is a bronze-mounted wooden door,
leading to the mausoleum of the sultan (PI. 2), which is covered
•with a beautiful dome. To the right is a corridor (PI. 3) leading
to the old but restored sanctuary (PI. 4), a magnificent apart-
ment with lofty stilted arches. The decoration is rich and effective.
The lower part of the wall with its niches is adorned with panels
of coloured marble and other stones, surmounted by charming dwarf
arcades with colonnettes of blue glass -paste and a rich mosaic
of coloured marbles. Above the niches are stucco windows and in-
scriptions in finely carved and gilded letters, interspersed with gilded
arabesques and rosettes. The coloured wooden ceiling and the inlaid
ornamentation of the pulpit (PI. 5) and doors also deserve notice.
This hall is now used as a lecture-room when the Azhar Mosque
(p. 55) is over-crowded. In the S.E. angle is the mausoleum of the
sultan's family (PI. 6). The sanctuary is separated by a modern iron
railing from the court, which is planted with trees and furnished
with a modern Hanefiyeh, or fountain for ablution (PI. 7).
Immediately adjoining the mosque is the town-gate B&b Zu-
weileh (PI. E, 4), at the end of the street. This is built of solid
its Side Streets. CAIRO. 4. Route. 61
blocks of stone and in plan resembles the two other gates of the
Fatimlte period, the Bab el-Futuh and the Bab en-Nasr (_p. 77 ). It was
erected at the end of the 11th cent, by Greek builders from Edessa.
The S. side consists of t\¥0 huge towers, surmounted by the elegant
minarets of the Muaiyad Mosque. On the tower to the W. are a
number of stone and woodeii balls, probably dating from the Mame-
1 uke period. Tuman Bey, the last of the Circassian sultans of Egypt,
was hanged on this tower by Sultan Selim I., on April 15th, 1517
(p. 45). This gate is called also Bab el-Metwaiti, from the old
tradition that the most highly revered saint Kutb el-Metwalli
(Mutawalli) has his abode behind the W. half of the gate, where he
sometimes makes his presence known by a gleam of light. On both
wings of the gate hang shreds of clothing, teeth, and other votive
offerings, placed here by sufferers in hope of cure. Opposite the
outside of the gate is the sebil of Sultan Farag, by the large grated
window of which executions by strangulation took place down to
tlie middle of the 19th century.
From the Zuweileh Gate the Derb kl-Ahmar (PI. E, 4) leads
towards the E. About 200 yds. from the gate is (No. 36) the restored
*Mosque of the Emir Eijm&s el-IsMki, a small but handsome
building, erected in 1481 in the style of KaitBey. The mausoleum,
which is large in proportion to the mosque, long remained empty,
as Emir Kijmas el-Ishaki, master of the horse to Kai't Bey, died
and was buried in Syria. In 1851, however, the pious Sheikh Abu
Hureiba was interred here.
In the same street, farther on named Shaei'et-Tabbanbh (PI. E,
4,6), lies the *M&.rdS.ni Mosque (Qamv el-Mdrdcini), one of the
largest in Cairo, built in 1338-40 by Emir Altun Bogha el-Mardani,
cup-bearer of Sultan Mohammed en-Nasir. The building was in a
thoroughly ruinous condition in the 19th cent., but has recently been
restored by Ilerz-Pasha. — The nearly square court is surrounded
by colonnades. The prayer-niche and the walls on each side of it are
covered with costly mosaics. The new com^rete dome in front of the
prayer-niche is borne by superb ancient Egyptian granite columns.
The side-colonnades also contain some ancient columns, probably
from a temple of the period of the Ptolemies. The sanctuary, or
main hall, is separated from the court by an ancient wooden railing,
much of which has had to be renewed. The Hanefiyeh in the court
formerly stood in the mosque of Sultan Hasan and here occupies
the site of the original fountain. — The Shari' Bab el-Wezir goes
on to the gate of that name and to the Citadel (p. 68). About half-
way it passes the picturesque G.\Mf Aksunkor or Qami' Ibrahim
Agha (PI. E, 5), known also as El-Azrak, or 'the blue', from the rich
blue tiles on the walls. Built in 1346 by the Emir Aksunkor,
this mosque was restored in 1651 by Ibrahim Agha and again in
modern times.
To the S., immediately adjoining the Zuweileh Gate, is the
62 Route 4. CAIRO. 3. South-EasUm
Bazaar of the Shoemakers, at the entrance to which (on the left) is
the dilapidated Fatimite mosque of Sdlih Talayeh (12th cent.).
Farther on, in the IShdri' el-Khiyamiyeh^ is the bazaar of the tent-
makers, where bright- coloured tent-covers may be purchased; and
this, in turn, ends at the Shari' Mohammed 'Ali.
3. The South-Eastern Quarters.
The route described in this section leads via the Shari' Mohammed
'All to the Citadel, and thence by a wide curve to the S. back to the i>ame
street. Tramways, see pp. 38, 39 (Nos. 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 13, & 17j.
Starting from the Place El-'Ataba el-Khadra (see p. 61), the
Shaei' Mohammed 'Alt (PI. C-E, 3-6), 1 M. in length, leads to the
S.E. straight to the foot of the citadel (tramway No. 2, p. 38). On
the left, about one-third of the way down the street, lies the Place
Bab el-Khalk, with the Administration Building (^Gouvemorat; PI.
D, 4), containing the Police Headquarters (p. 37), and the building
of tlie Arabian Museum and tlie Kliedlvial Library (p. 64).
The *Arabian Museum (entr. on the E. side), consisting of ob-
jects of artistic or antiquarian interest from ruined mosques and other
Egyptian buildings, especially those of Cairo, is due to the zeal of
Franz-Pasha, formerly technical director of the Wakf Administration
(p. Ixxxvi). The constantly increasing collections were formerly
exhibited in the mosque of El-Hakim but were transferred in the
year 1903 to the groundfloor of the present handsome new building
in the Arabic style. The museum is open daily from Nov. to April,
except on Frid. and festivals, 9-4 (adm. 5 pias.); from May to Oct.,
8-1 (adm. 1 pias.). Illustrated English catalogue (1907), 20 pias.
Director, Max Herz-Pasha ; curator, 'All Bey Bahgat.
The walls of the Vestibule are occupied by a chronological survey
of the Mohammedan dynasties of Egypt. — We pass to the right into —
Room I. Tombstones. Nos. 9-42, 54, 55, with Culic inscriptions;
64. Marble slab with inscription mentioning an endowment of Saladin ;
100. Inscription with the name of Sultan Ghiiri, from the water-works
of Old Cairo ; Tombstones in the form of columns ; 138a. Stone com-
memorating the dedication of a fountain ; 172. Fine lamp, with the name
of Sultan Hasan (14th cent.).
Room II. Marble and other Stone Carvings. No. 26. Fragment of a cornice
with an eagle (period of the FatimitesJ ; 39. Marble slab with fine orna-
mentation from the mosque of Sarghutmash (14th cent; p. 73); 89-114.
Marble fragments, with inlays of "stucco or marble; 115-120, 123. Armorial
bearings ; 127, 128. Two reliefs with lions, made from the bases of Roman
columns; 132 et seq.. Stone jars with their stands; 156-172. Capitals of
columns, including an ancient Egyptian one from the mosque of Milrdani
(p. 61); 175, 176. Coptic columns; 177-185. Shafts of Arabian columns, with
•sculptures from prayer-niches ; 186, 18S. Two columns from the mosque of
Kait Bey in Medinet el-Faiyum; 192. Fragment of the Nilometer atRoda;
193. Hanging lamp from the mosque of Sultan Hasan.
Room III. Stone Sculptures, Works in Plaster, and Mosaics. Mosaic
pavement from the Mahmudiyeh mosque (p. 63); 2. Slab of a fountain from
the sebil of Sultan Farag, with representations of animals (Persian); 8-10.
Capitals of ancient columns which have been used for well-curbs; 23-30.
Mosaics from the walls of a house (conventional ornamental inscription
on No. 23); 35. Cast of an engaged column from the Tuluu mosque (p. 71),
Quarters.
CAIRO.
4. Route. 06
with its original capital ; 37. Plaster window-tracery from the mosque
of Salih TalSyeh ; 39-46. Plaster ornaments from the moaqae of El-Kamil,
with inscriptious and arabesque ornamentation; 51, 52. Plaster windows
from the mosque of Mardani ; 54. Fine window from the Kijmas mosque;
57. Tasteful modern window; 63, 64. Hanging lamp from the mosque of
Sultan Hasan.
Room IV. Wood Carvingt. Pulpits, Koran reading-desks. No. 1.
Coptic door from the Kalaun mosque; 95-97. Prayer-niches in carved
wood; 101-103. Cenotaphs (No. 101 from a tomb near the tomb-mosque of
the Imam Shafi'i); 104 etseq., Reading-desks.
Room V. Wood Carvings, Fret Work, and Turned Work. Mashrabiyehs.
No. 1 . Door from the tom b-mosqne of Sultan Bs-Salih Aiy ub (13th cent.) ; 21-23.
Balconies ; 24-31. Perforated wood-
carvings CNo. 27. from the mo.sque
iif the Imam Shafi'i, of especially
delicate execution); 3o. Bronze lamp
from the mosque of '.-Vbd el-Basit.
Room VI. Wood Carvings. Speci-
mens of carved wood illustrating
the development of Arabic orna-
mentation; ceilings; painted frag-
ments of wood; wooden doors with
fine inlays of ivory : 1. Carved portal ;
25a. Carving of the Fatimite period,
with animal-deaigns ; 198. Carving
from the mosque of El-Ashraf Bars
Eey. — From the Turkish period :
205, 206. Carvings from the mosque
of Suleiman Pasha (p. 70); 214. Carv-
ing from Damietta.
Room VII. Wood Carvings. Old
wooden ceilings. — Wood-carvings
from doors : to the right of the en-
trance, -4, 5. from a cenotaph of the
Aiyubide period. — Show-cases A-D
contain smaller wood-carvings, most
of them inlaid with ivory 8 (No. 16,
in A, Eagle and hare). — 142-145.
Locks; 146, 147, 149. Wooden tables
(Kursi); 148. Wooden table with
fine mosaic from the mosque of
Sultan Sha'ban. — °156. Koran-case
with mosaic and elegant hinges, from
the same mosque. Such boxes have
always 30 compartments , arranged
in three rows, for the 30 books of
the Koran. Small chest inlaid with
ivory. — 176. Richly painted and gilded wooden ceiling
of Suleiman Sari.
KooM VIII (to the left of R. VII). Chairs, Benches, Cupboard Doors,
Mashrabiyehs. — Minbars or pulpits. — Jlosaic pavement and fountain
from an Arab house in the Hihniyeh, Cairo.
Room IX. Works in Metal. Bronze-mounted doors: 1. from the mosque
of Salih Talayeh (12th cent.); 2. from the tomb -mosque of Imam Shafi'i
(13th cent!); 3. from the convent-mosque of Bars Bey tl5thcent.); 6. from
the mosque of Princess Tatar el-Hegaziyeh (14th cent.). — Table Case A:
9-13. Candlesticks (No. 9 'inlaid with silver). — Table Case B: 15. Koran-
case, with elaborate brass cover and silver ornamentation; 14a. Writing
utensils. — Central Case: 19. Fine brazen dish; 22. Brazen vessel with
ornaments and arms. — Cases C it; D: Choice bronze vessels. — Case O:
Two fine rifles; weapons ; gold coins. — In the glass-cases beside the middle
window are ornamental 'Swords and rifles. — 105, 106. Small brass tables
richly inlaid with silver (No. 105 with the name of Sultan Na-sir, 14th cent.);
from the sebil
64 Route 4. CAIRO. 3. South-Eastern
107. Bronze grating with silver ornamentation ; 110-123. Pine metal lustres
(No. 110 belonging to Sultan Ahmed , 14th cent. ; 115 & 115a from the mosque
of Kait Bey, at Medinet el-Faiyum; 123 from the Ghuri mosque).
Room X. Works in Metal. Door-mounts, bands bearing inscriptions,
knockers, doors with bronze mounts. — 91. Door studded with iron nails;
92, 93. Doors from the mosque of Seiyideh Zeinab ; 130, 130a. Scales inlaid
with silver; 136. Bronze chandelier from the mosque ofEl-Ghiiri; 94-102.
Crescents from domes and minarets.
Room XI. Fayence (that on the E. wall native, that on the W. wall
imported from other oriental countries). Fayence tiles, including several
with carnations and one with a representation of the Kaaba at Mecca
(made at Damascus in 1726). — The show-cases contain glazed vessels,
pottery, dishes of various kinds; 107 etc., Lamps and lamp-weights; frag-
ments of fayence. Case I: B. Fragments of fayence bearing coats-of-arms;
D. Magnificent cornelian dish, from the mosque of Sultan Kalaun, a beauti-
ful specimen, 17^/4 inches in diameter and 4 inches high, with 19 cut facets
on the edge. Case F: Lamps; dishes with fine glaze.
Room XII. Fayence. Fayence tiles of European manufacture, such
as were used to line the walls of rab houses in the 18-19th centuries. —
On the wall to the right. Stucco decorations of an Arab room from a house
in Old Cairo. Below, 72-74. Carved doors from Mehalleh el-Kubra. The
cases contain vessels from Rhodes, Moorish dish (52), Persian and Syrian
tiles, and Celadon vases (64-67).
Room XIII. Plaster Casts. — Small Arab room from Rosetta (restored).
Room XIV. Textiles. First glass-case to the right: 1. Piece of silk with
the name of Ma'mun, son and successor of Harun er-Rashid; 5. Piece of
silk with the design of two birds seated facing each other (12th cent.) ;
0. Fabric with the name of Sultan Nasir (14th cent.); 7. Fabric with a
double-headed eagle; 8. Waistcoat; 10. Fabric with finely worked inscrip-
tions; 11. Fabric with printed patterns and inscriptions. Two show-tables
and frames contain oriental book-covers. — 31, 32. Koran -cases covered
with leather, with embossed ornamentation and inscriptions (No. 31 from
the mosque of Sultan Hasan, the other bearing the name of the donor,
Sultan El-Ghuri). In a glass-case is a map with a compass, within the
cover of which is a representation of the Kaaba in lacquer-work.
Room XV. "Enamelled Hanging Lamps from Mosques, most of them
made of light green gla.ss, with enamelled flowers, foliage, inscriptions,
medallions, and coats-of-arms. The oldest of these dates from the 13th
century. The place of manufacture is unknown. Only about a hundred
of these lamps are now extant; most of those in this museum (over 60)
are from the mosque of Sultan Hasan (p. 66). The finest specimens are
(in Case A) No. 1, with the titles of Sultan Ashraf Khalil; 5, with the
arms of a OAkdnddr or 'mallet-bearer' (i.e. the Mameluke in charge of the
game of polo) ; (in Case B) 7, with the arms of the cup-bearer Shekhuh ;
(in Cases G & H) "51-56. Specimens from the mosque of Sultan Hasan.
Room XVI. Hanging Lamps (see above). Adjoining the exit, pictures
of the sacred cities Medina (r.) and Mecca (1.). — Among recent additions
to the museum is a rich Collection of Oriental Carpets.
On the first floor of the Arabian Museum is the *Khedivial
Library (^Kutubkhaneh; special entrance from the Shari' Mohammed
'Ali), founded in 1870 by the Khedive Isma'il by uniting the li-
braries of several institutions and mosques, and regularly added to
since. The chief credit of arranging this fine collection of books
belongs to four Germans, Dr. Stern, Dr. Spitta-Bey, Dr. Toilers,
and Dr. Moritz. Present Director, Dr. Schade. The whole library
consists of over 75,500 vols. (12,000 MSS.), of which 32,000 are
in oriental languages (Arabic, Persian, Turkish, Amharic, and
Syrian). The Koran alone accounts for no fewer than 2677 volumes.
Quarters. CAIRO, 4. Route. 65
The illuminated Persian MSS. are extremely valuable. The library
contains also a collection of coins (upwards of 3800) of the Moham-
medan rulers of Egypt. — The reading-room is open daily, except
on Frid. and official festivals, from 8 to one hour before sunset (in
July, Aug., and Sept. 8-1; during Ramadan 10-2). Visitors to the
otber rooms require a special permit from the director, while those
who wish to borrow books must obtain a guarantee from some high
official or other personage in Cairo known to the director.
The Show Koom (open tree, 9-4) contains coins and specimens of
oriental MS^^. and printed works. We begin with the table-cases to the
right. — S/ielves 1, 2. Arabic papyri (7-9th cent): Shelves 3-5. Arabic docu-
ments on paper, parchment, and potsherds (8-1.3th cent.); Shelf 6. Early
Arabic books (9-13th cent.) ; Shelf 7. Autographs of famous oriental authors ;
Shelf 8. Arabic MSS. from North Africa and Spain (li-17th cent.). —
Shelves 9-20. Fine examples of the Koran. These are remarkable for their
large size, superb execution, and great age. The Mohammedans have
always exercised the greatest care in preparing the MSS. of the Koran,
and have always regarded the sacred book which was sent to them from
heaven with the most profound reverence. The oldest specimens of the
Koran (Shelves 9 seq.), dating from the 8-lOth cent., are in the C'lific, or
early-.\rabic, character and are written on parchment. Among the fine
large copies of the Koran on paper which were executed for the sultans of
the Bahrite Mamelukes (1250-1382) and their emirs, the most notable are
those (Shelves 14 seq.) made for the Sultans Hasan and Sha'ban and their
emirs Shekhuh and Sarghutmash (14th cent.). — Shelves 21-36: Korans
of the 14-15th cent, made for the Emirs Ki.jmas and Arghiin and the Cir-
cassian Mameluke Sultans Barkuk, Farag, Muaiyad, and Bars Bey ; Korans
and other books of the 15th cent., prepared for the Sultans Hoshkadam,
Kait Bey, and El-Ghiiri. The largest Koran in the collection, measuring
443/4 by 35 inches, belonged to Kait Bey. — Shelf 37. Korans of the 14-
15th cent. (Mameluke period). — ' Shelf 38. Korans written in India. — On
one of the shelves is a collection of coins.
Shelves 39-44. 'Persian MSS. with miniatures. The origin and develop-
ment of this branch of art have not yet been adequately investigated. The
specimens here exhibited are all the work of Mohammedan artists, though
the influence of E. Asiatic taste is noticeable in those of later date. These
book-illu.'itrations are distinguished from the purely ornamental art of the
Korans by a greater freedom of conception and variety of motive, particularly
by the frequent employment of living forms. Nearly all are illustrations
of poetical or historical works. The chronological arrangement shows that
this art was at its best in the 14-16th cent., and that thereafter a rapid
decline set in. Shelf 39. 'Divan of the poems of Farid id-Din Attar, written
in 1454; Poems of Jami, written in the N.E. Provinces of India, perhaps
in the 17th century. Shelf 40. Anthology of Persian poetry, written for
the library of Sultan Bayazid (15th cent.); Persian MSS. of the 16th cent:
•Bustan of Sa'di. Shelf 41. Korans written by Persians. Shelf 42. Korans
and other books written by Indians ; two albums with Indian mmiatures
and autographs of celebrated Persian and Turkish calligraphers (16iO-1703);
tlie poem of Yusuf and Zuleika, by Jami, written in lliOl, with full-page
illustrations. Shelf 43. Persian miniatures of the 15-lHth cent. ; a second
specimen of Jami's poem of Yiisuf and Zuleika, written in 1533 ; the Cosmo-
graphy of Kazwini (1567), translated into Persian, with diagrams in the E.
Asiatic stvle ; two MSS. of Mehr and Mushtari, a poem by Assar (1493) ; several
MSS. of the Shahnameh or Book of Kings of Firdausi^ Shelf 44. Persian
miniatures of the 1G-I7th cent. 5 three copies of the Divan of Hafiz of Shiraz
(1556, 1565, and 1630); Gulistan of the poet Sa'di, written by Sultan Mo-
hammed Nir (16th cent.). — Shelf 45, Korans written by Turks. Shelf 46.
Tnrkish MSS. with miniatures; a copy of the Kudatku Bilik, the first work
of Turkish literature in Arabic characters, composed about 1110 and written
in Cairo about 1350; Cosmography of Kazwini (Oct., 1553). — Shelf 47.
66 Route 4. CAIRO. 3. South-Eastern
Turkish albums (16-17th cent.); Shelf 48. Aatographs of Turkish saltans;
Shelf 49. Arabic books, printed in Africa (Zanzibar, Sudan, Egypt, Tunis,
Algiers, Fez); Shelf 60. Arabic books printed in Asia (China, East Indies,
Persia, etc.), and also the earliest European specimens ; Shelves 51-54. Arabic,
Persian, and Turkish book-bindings. On the walls : Koran written for the
Sultan Oedyaitu of Persia (1311) and later (1326) acquired by the Mameluke
Sultan Nasir, with wonderful ornameutation.
From the Bab el-Khalk Square we continue to follow the Shari'
Mohammed 'All. About 1/4 M. farther on a side-street leads to the
left to the Oami' el-Malika Safiya (PI, D, 5), a Turkish- Arabian
mosque of 1611, with a dome borne by six monolithic antique col-
umns and ornamentation in the Byzantine-Arabian style. Behind
it, in the Shari' ed-Daudiyeh, lies the small *Mosque of El-Burdeini
(PI. D, 6), built in 1630 and restored in 1885, lavishly adorned
with mosaics, and adjoined by an elegant minaret. The beautiful
wooden ceilings and the elaborate pulpit are especially notable.
Farther on the Shari' Mohammed 'Ali passes the much altered
mosque of El-Keisun (^Asdn' ; PI. D, 5) and leads to a large square
adorned with gardens in front of two large mosques. That on the
left is the G&,mr Rif&.'iyeh, a handsome columned edifice com-
pleted in 1912. It stands on the site of the tomb of Sheikh ''Aii
Rifa'i and contains the family burial-vault of the Khedive Isma'il
(_d. 1895). — On the right rises the —
**Gfi,mi' Sult&n Hasan (PI. E, 6), the 'superb mosque', and the
finest existing monument of Egypto- Arabian architecture. It was
built in 1356-59 for Sultan Hasan (p. cxviii), perhaps by a Syrian
architect, and has been restored byHerz-Pasha. The huge proportions
of the building, which occupies a shelving rock below the citadel,
taken in conjunction with the masterly execution of its details, pro-
duce an effect of great majesty. Admission, see p. 43.
The exterior recalls the broad surfaces of the early-Egyptian
temples. All the facades are crowned by a unique and boldly pro-
jecting cornice of 'stalactite' formation and furnished with pinnacles
(restored). The broad wall-surfaces are relieved by blind recesses
and round-arched windows in couples. The mausoleum, which pro-
jects boldly from the S.E. fa(;ade, is covered by a dome (180 ft. high),
said to have been originally egg-shaped but reconstructed after 1616
in the Turkish-Arabian style. The N.W. facade is unfinished. —
The massive **6ateway (PI. 1), 85 ft. high, though its ornamen-
tation was never fully carried out, has been more or less imitated
in many other Egyptian mosques. The original magnificent bronze
gate now adorns the mosque of Muaiyad (p. 59). — • The S. Minaret
(PI. 11a; 285 ft. high) is the highest minaret in Cairo (that of
El-Ghuri 213 ft., Kalaun 193 ft., El -Muaiyad 167 ft., El-Azhar
167 ft., Kait Bey and Barkuk 164 ft., Tulun 131 ft., 'Amr 105 ft.).
The minaret (PL lib) at the E. corner was overthrown by an earth-
quake, but was afterwards rebuilt on a smaller scale.
The building is in the form of an irregularpentagon, 85,000 sq.ft.
Quarters.
CAIKO.
4. Route. 67
ill area, iu which the cruciform shape of the original Medreseh
(p. clxxx) has been skilfully incorporated. — From the main en-
trance (PI. 1) we enter first a domfed vestibule (PI. 2) and then a
smaller anteroom, whence steps ascend to the corridor (PI. 3), ad-
joining the large Sahn el-Gami' or mosque-court (115 ft. long and
105 ft. broad). In the centre of the court is the Meida (PI. 4).
The four arms of the cross are occupied by four large halls (liwan),
with lofty barrel -vaulting. These serve as praying rooms. The
lecture-rooms for the four orthodox schools of Jslam (p. Ixxxvl)
1. Chief Entrance (from the Sharr Mohammed 'Ali).' 2. Vestibule. 3. Corri-
dor. 4. Meida (fountain for ablutions).' 6. Dikkeh. 7. Prayer-recess (kibla).
8. Pulpit (minbar). 9. Mausoleum of Sultan Hasan. 10. S. Entrance. 11a
and b. Minarets. 12. Medresehs (lecture -rooms) for the four schools of
Islam. 13. Old court of ablutions in the sunk floor (ruinous).
were fitted up in the four small medresehs (PI. 12). The Liwan el-
Gamf or sanctuary has as its chief embellishment an elaborate in-
scribed *Frieze, cut in the stucco and much restored, with line Cuflc
letters on a tasteful background of arabesques. The rear wall, with
the prayer-recess, is adorned with marble. The only remains of the
once sumptuous fittings of this hall are the dikkeh (PI. 6), the pulpit
(PI. 8), with a wooden door, inlaid with gold and silver and mounted
with bronze, and the chains of the innumerable lamps (p. 64). To
the right of the pulpit is a bronze door (now closed), damascened
with gold and silver, leading to the mausoleum. The present en-
trance to the Mausoleum (PI. 9) is an iron door to the left of the pul-
pit. The square domed apartment, with the simple sarcophagus of
the sultan, has a beautiful inscribed frieze of carved wooden letters.
The stalactitic pendentives of the original dome still exist. The
ceiling and the painted friezes have been partly restored.
68 Route 4. CAIRO. 3. South-Eastern
To the S.E. of the mosque of Sultan Hasan extends the large
*Place Saladin {Mtdan Saladin; PI. E, 6, 7), the finest square in the
city, at Viscount Kitchener's instigation formed in 1913 out of the
Place Rumeileh and Place Mohammed AH by the demolition of several
small streets and buildings. At the N. end of the Place, on slightly
elevated ground, stand two mosques, the 6dmi' el-Mahm.ildtyeh and
the Gdmi' Emir Akhor (PI. E, 6). On the E. side rises the citadel
(see below), with the Bdb el-Azah (PI. E,6), flanked with its huge
towers. Along the E. side of the Place extends the Shdri' Mastabet
el-Mahmal; in its S. part is the Stik el-Kasr, the scene of a busy
afternoon market. Here also take place the festivities on the depart-
ure of the Mecca Caravan (comp. pp, xcvl, xcvii). At the S. end
of the Place are the Prison and, farther on, the gate named Bdb el-
Kardfeh (P1.E,7). — Taking the Shari'Dayir er-Rifa'i, which leads
round the Gami' Rifa'iyeh to the square mentioned on p. 66, we
see on the right, on a rocky hill, the small Gohar Mosque (PI. E, 6).
From the N.E. corner of the Place Saladin the citadel is ap-
proached by the Shari' el-Mahgar, a carriage-road, and then by the
winding Shari' Bab el-Gedid, whith a view of the Tombs of the
Caliphs (to the left). Foot-passengers ascend by the Shari' ed-
Defterkhaneh, passing the Government Archives (Defterkhaneh;
PI. E, F, 6), built by Mohammed Ali in 1828, or, quitting the
Place Saladin by the Bab el-'Azab (see above), proceed straight on
by a narrow and crooked lane, enclosed by lofty walls. It was in
this lane, formerly the chief approach to the citadel, that the mas-
sacre of the Mamelukes took place on March Ist, 1811, by order of
Mohammed Ali (p. cxxi) Amin Bey, the only one who survived, is
said to have escaped by making his horse leap into the moat.
The Citadel {El-KaVa; PI. E, F, 6) was built in 1179 by
Saladin (p. 46), with stones taken, according to the very credible
statements of Arabian historians, from the small pyramids at Gizeh.
Of the original structure, however, nothing now remains except the
outer E. wall and a few towers in the interior. Although the fortress
commands the city, it is itself commanded by the heights of the
Mokattam, rising above it immediately to the S. ; thus in 1805 Mo-
hammed Ali was enabled, by means of a battery planted on the Gebel
Giyushi (p. 116), to compel Khurshid Pasha to surrender the Citadel.
— We enter the outer court of the Citadel by the Bab el-Gedtd
(PI. F, 6; 'New Gate'), and then pass through the Bdb el-Wastdni
('Middle Gate') into the main court, where the Alabaster Mosque
rises in front of us, with the En-Nasir Mosque to the left.
The *Gami' Mohammed 'Ali (PI. E, F, 6; tickets, see p. 43;
slippers 1 pias.), or 'Alabaster Mosque', the lofty and graceful
minarets of which are so conspicuous from a distance as to form
one of the landmarks of Cairo, was begun by Mohammed Ali, the
founder of the present Egyptian dynasty, on the site of a palace
which was blown up in 1824 ; and in 1857 it was completed in its
Quarters.
CAIRO.
4. Route. 69
South - Kast
present form by Sa'id Pasha (p. cxxii ). The architect was the Greek
Yusuf Boshna of Constantinople, wlio, aided hy Greek foremen,
built it on the model of the Nuri Osmaniyeh mosque at Constanti-
nople. The columTis are built, and the walls incrusted, with poor
yellow alabaster. Wood
painted to resemble ala-
baster is used also.
The Entrance (PI. 9),
near the centre of the N.
side, leads directly into
X.\\cSdhnel-Gami' {P\. 10),
or Court, enclosed by
vaulted galleries, in the
upper parts of which plain
limestone has been used
instead of alabaster. In
the centre is the Haneftyeh
(PI. 11), or basin for ab-
lution, in the debased
Turkish style. On the W.
side is the approach to a
tower (PI. 13), which ter-
minates in a pavilion
with Moorish arabesques
and contains a clock pre-
sented to Mohammed Ali
by Louis Philippe.
The Interior is en-
tered through the centre
of the E. gallery of the
court. It consists of si
large quadrangle, with By-
zantine domes resting on
4 huge square pillars.
The size of the place and
the manner in which it
1. Sultan's Entrance. 2. Kursi. 3. Pulpit.
■i. I'rayer-recess. 5. Tomb ot'BIohammed Ali.
7. Kntrance. 8. Great Gallery. 9. Usual En-
is lighted produce a very trance. 10. Sahn el-6ami^ 11. Hanefiyeli.
striking impression. The J?. Openings- to the great cistern under
„, , . ? , '^ .. . the court. 13. Ascent to the dock-tower.
lurkish decoration is uii- 14 point of view,
important, and the read-
ing-desk, pulpit, and prayer-recess (PI. 2, 3, 4) possess no parti-
cular attraction. To the right of the entrance is the Tomb of
Mohammed Ail (A. 1849), enclosed by a handsome railing (PI. 5).
A magnificent **Vik-w is obtained from the parapet at the- W.
angle of the mosque (PI. 14), which is reached by walking round
outside the building, within the railing. From this point we survey
the yellowisli-grey city, with its countless minarets, domes, and
70 Route 4. CAIRO. 3. South-EaHem
gardens. At our feet stands the mosque of Sultan Hasan. To the
N. and N.W. are the Windmill Hills and the green plain traverseg
by the Nile. To the "W., in the distance, are the Pyramids, towerind
above the desert. On the flat roofs of the houses we observe in-
numerable ventilators, called malkaf, by means of which the cool
north-wind is introduced into the houses.
The Gimr en-Nasir (PI. F, 6) was erected in 1317 by Sultan
En-Nasir. Long used as a military magazine and storehouse, it is
in a dilapidated condition. It exhibits traces of the Romanesque
taste on the exterior, particularly on the portals. The two curious
minarets are surmounted by bulbous cupolas adorned with bright-
coloured fayence tiles in the Persian style. The sadly misused liwans,
in the construction of which some fine ancient Byzantine columns
were used, still retain their painted cassetted ceilings. The dome
in front of the prayer-recess rests upon ancient Egyptian granite
columns, but only the drum now remains.
The entrance to tlie barracks opposite the N.E. facade of the Garni'
en-Nasir leads to the small Garni'' Suleiman Basha (PI. F, 6), also called
Sdryat or Sisariyeh, on the E. side of the citadel, which was erected in
1528 by Suleiman, one of the Mamelukes of Sultan Selim. The architecture
is a mixture of Arabian and Turkish. The mosque contains Cufic inscrip-
tions, marble mosaics, a decorated prayer-recess, and a pulpit in marble.
In the N.E. comer of the forecourt is the tomb of the saint Saryat.
By skirting the N.E. and S.E. sides of the Gami' en-Na.?ir we reach
the so-called Well of Joseph (Bir YHsuf; PI. F, 6), a square shaft, with a
spiral passage around it, sunk in the limestone rock to a depth of 290 ft.
Within the shaft, at a depth of about 155 ft., is a platform on which the
oxen stood that brought the water to the surface by means of a sakiyeh.
The well was sunk by Saladin to provide the citadel with water, but has
lost its importance since the completion of the new water-works. The
name is due to the legend that this was the well into which the Joseph
of Scripture was put by his brethren.
A narrow lane leads from Joseph's Well to the Bdb el-Oebel (PI. F, 6;
'mountain-gate'), the S. main gate of the citadel, whence a road leads
straight to the Mokattam (p. 116). A road diverging to the right a little
farther on leads to the Monastery of the Bektashi (Deir el-Maganri), a
Turkish order of Dervishes, situated among green palms on a bare moun-
tain-slope (visitors admitted). [The monastery may be reached also from
the Place Saladin via the narrow lanes between the Tombs of the Mame-
lukes and the citadel.] An easy staircase ascends to a court, in which
are situated the residences of the monks. The garden in front commands
an admirable view of the city, the valley of the Nile, and the desert.
From the court a dark cave (probably an old quarry) enters the mountain-
side, with the graves of dervishes. At the end is a chamber containing
the tomb of a sheikh , where worshippers are frequently observed. The
remains of a wife of 'Abbas I. also rest here, under an elaborate gilt tomb.
From the Bab el-Gebel a road leads to the 8. to the Tombs of tJit Mame-
lukes (p. 115). — To the Tombs of the Caliphs, see p. 111.
"We return to the Place Saladin (p. 68) and follow the Shari'
Mohammed 'All (p. 62} to its intersection with the Shaei' bl-Hil-
MiTEH (PI. D, 5, 6). The latter street, along with its continuations,
the Sh&ri' es-Siyufiyeh and the Shdri' er-Rukhlyeh (PI. D, 6, 7), forms
the main thoroughfare traversing E. Cairo from N. to S. ( comp. p. 59),
Quarter.^. CAIRO. 4. Route. 71
to the S. of the Sliari' Mohammed 'Ali. In the Shari' el-Hilmtyeh,
on the left, is tlie Monastery of the Mevlevis ('Derviches tourneurs';
PI. D, 6), an order of dancing dervishes (p. xcii), whose 'zikr'
(comp. p. xci) may be witnessed on Frid. afternoons at two o'clock
(previous application through a dragoman necessary). At the inter-
section of the Shari' Siyufiyeh and the Shari' es-Salibeh is the rich
and effective marble Sehll of the Mother of 'Ahhas 1. [PI. D, 6). To
the left, in the Shari' Shekhuh (leading to the Place Saladin), is
the Gdmi' Shekhuh^ built by the emir of that name (1350-55), and
opposite, on the S. side of the street, is the Khankah or Convent of
ShekhUh, occupied by dervishes of the Kadiriyeh Order (p. xcii). —
We continue to follow the Shari' er-Rukbiyeh and turn down the
Shari' Ibn 'Tulun to the right, in which, after about 100 yds. more,
we observe on the right a lane leading to the E. entrance of the
now disused and sadly neglected —
*Gfi,mi' Ibn Tul4n (PI. D, 7 ; also pronounced 'Falun). This
mosque, the oldest in Cairo but one , was erected in 876-879 by
Ahmed ibn TuliLn , the founder of the dynasty of the Tulunides
(p. cxiv). It lies in the quarter oi Kal'at el-Kabsh, on a hill named
Oebel YeshkxJir, and occupies an area of 30,720 sq. yds., 20,320
of which are taken up by the mosque proper. The edifice is said
to have been designed in imitation of the Kaaba at Mecca, but
without columns, by a Christian prisoner, who, in return for his
release, constructed the whole of the building of entirely new
materials (i.e. not taken from other buildings). The walls consist
of brick, coated with stucco. The older part of the ornamentation,
which is in carved (not moulded) stucco and wood, exhibits none
of the intricate forms of the Byzantine- Arabian style, which appear
in the later restorations. At a later period the mosque was used
as a magazine and as an asylum for aged men, which explains the
addition visible in the N.W. liwan, below the minaret.
From the main entrance(Pl. l,p.72) we pass through the E, outer
court to the Chief Liw an (PI. 4) or sanctuary, and thence proceed
to the inner quadrangle or Sahn el-Gdmi% 99 yds. square. With the
exception of the ceilings, most of which have been restored, the
building has been preserved almost intact, though its fitting up has
been frequently altered. The most important renovations were carried
out by Lagin, afterwards Sultan El-Maiisur. It was he wlio erected
the mausoleum-like Dome (PI. 6) in the centre of the court, covering
an octagonal basin, on the site of an older hall which was destroyed
. by fire. The court is surrounded by a double arcade, except on the
sanctuary side, where the arcade is quadruple, while a fifth row
of arches collapsed in 1876. Pointed openings above the pillars
lighten the weight of the masonry, and the facades are crowned by
a medallion -frieze and open-work balustrades. The pillars are of
plastered brick and have their corners rounded into quarter col-
timns, with delicately ornamented capitals. The pointed arches
72 Route 4.
CAIRO.
3. South-Eastern
are among the earliest examples of the kind. On one of the pillars
of the sanctuary (PL x) is a marhle tablet bearing the charter of the
mosque in ancient Arabic (Cufic) characters. Another pillar exhibits
fine stucco ornamentation. The original roof of the arcades, of which
I. Main entrance. 2. Foreconrts. 3. Liwans. 4. Chief Li wan or Sanctuary.
5. Prayer-recess and pnlpit. 6. Dome and water-basin. 7. Large minaret.
8. Small minaret. 9. Sebil of later date.
remains are extant above the dikkeh, was made of beams of date-
palm, veneered with sycamore wood. Along the top of the walls
runs a frieze of sycamore wood, inscribed with texts from the Koran.
According to the testimony of Makrizi this wood belonged to Noah's
Ark, which was found by Ibn Tuluu on Mt. Ararat.
Quartern. CAIRO. 4. Route. 73
The Prayer Recess (IM. 5) has fine Byzantine capitals and remains
of gilded mosaic. The wooden cupola over it has lately been restored.
The Pulpit erected by Sultan El-Mansur (p. 71) in 1298 is still
noticeable, though it has been robbed of its characteristic panels
carved in ebony and ivory. These were sold in Europe and some
of them are now in the South Kensinston Museum.
The large Minaret (PI. 7), in the N.W. outer court, dates from
a later period and is perhaps a reproduction of a tower at Samarra
on the Tigris. It is built of stone, instead of brick, and also shows
peculiarities in its square lower section and elsewhere. The horse-
shoe arches at the entrance are particularly fine. The ascent is easy,
and the top commands an admirable *View. To the S. are the pyra-
mids of Dahshur and to the W. the huge pyramids of Gizeh; the
valley of the Nile as far as the Delta lies before us ; to the E. rise
the picturesque slopes of the Mokattam and the Citadel; in the
foreground all round lies ('airo, with its houses, mosques, palaces,
and gardens; to the N., at the foot of the minaret, is the Medreseh
Sarghutmash. — From the minaret access is gained to the concrete
roofs of the liwans, protected by elegant balustrades; a walk round
these is recommended for a full appreciation of the view.
We return to the Shari' Ibn Tulun, turn to the right by the
Shari' ez-Ziyadeh, on the S.W. siile of the mosque, and follow
the winding Shari' el-Kabsh and the Shari' er-Rahaba, all in the
quarter of Kal'at el-Kabsh (p. 71), to the —
*Medreseh Ka.it Bey ( I'l. G, 7), which was erected in 1475 and
has been recently restored by llerz-Pasha. It is cruciform in ground-
plan, and its rich and elegant forms afford a good example of the
style current under the second Mameluke dynasty (p. clxxx). The
minaret is one of the most graceful in Cairo. The pulpit is richly
embellished with wood-carving. The mosaics on the pavement and
the flue ornamentation of the walls also are wortliy of notice. The
dome is modern.
The Shari' Bir el-Watawit leads to the E. from the Shari' Ibn
Tulun, at the Mosque of Tulun, to the Shabi'i;l-Khei)eiri(P1. D,7),
the W. prolongation of the Shari' os-Salibeh (p. 71). Here, just to
theN. of the Tulun Mof-quc, stands the small Medreseh Sarghutmash,
built by one of Sultan Hasan's Mamelukes in 1357 in the style of
the mosque of Sultan lla.^au. The four liwans form a cross with
the court in the centre. Ou the walls to the right and left of the
prayer-niche are the arms of the builder. A door in the S.W. corner
of the W. liwan leads to the mausoleum, covered by a stately dome.
— In the Sh.iri' E/.bek, a side-street, lies the beautiful Mosque of
Ezhek el-Yuaeli (PI. D,6), built in 1495 in the style of K ait Bey
and recently restored.
The W. continuation of the Shari' el-Khedeiri expands into
the Shari' kl-MaeasIn (PI. C, 7), wliich leads almost straight to
Kaedekeu's Egypt. 7th F.dit. 5
74 RotUe I. CAIRO. (. Northern
the small square and mosque of Es-Seiyideli Zeiiiab. On the way it
passes the high-lying Odmi' Sang'ir el-Oauli (1303), with two stilted
domes and a minaret resembling that of the Hakim Mosque. To the
N. of this street lies the quarter of Birket el-FU ('lake of the ele-
phants'), on the site of a former lake.
The Gami' es-Seiyideli Zeinab (PI. C, 6, 7) was completed in
1803 and enlarged and restored in 1884. The interior (not open
to foreigners) contaiTis the tomb (restored) of Zeinab, daughter of
Imam Ali and granddaughter of the Prophet; the bronze railing
enclosing tlie sarcophagus bears the date 1210 (of the Hegira). In
front of this mausoleum are the cenotaphs of three saints, beneath
a stone canopy.
From this point the tramway (No. 5, p. 38) leads to the N., along
the course of the former Khalig Canal (p. 104), to the Bab el-Khalk
and the Muski. Koughly parallel with it goes a scries of tortuous
streets, called successively Shari' Seiyideh Zeinab, Shari' el-Lobu-
diyeh, Derb el-tTamamiz, Shari' el-Habbaniyeh, and Shari' Bab el-
Khalk, leading to the (1 V4 M.) Shari' Mohammed 'Ali and the Place
Bab el-Khalk. In the Shari' bl-Habbaniyeh is the former Dervish
monastery of Tekkhjeh es- Sultan Mnhmud or Tekkhjeh Hahbanhjeh
(PI. D, 5). It was erected in the Turkish-.\rabian style about. the
middle of the ISth cent, by Mustafa Agha, vizier of Sultan Selim,
and is now occupied by students of the Azhar Mosque (p. 55). The
building possesses a large court, with a fountain and a few palm-
trees. Around the court are the cells of the students, and adjoining
it is a small mosque. Built on to the monastery is the highly inter-
esting SebU of Sultan MahmUd^ with its prominent rotunda and
elaborate facade, its projecting blinds, and its coloured marble and
porcelain interior embellishment.
4. The Northern Quarters.
The following section deals principally with the interesting edifices in
the N.E. part of Cairo, to the N. of the Sikkeh e}-Gedideh, the continua-
tion of the JInski (p. 53), and with the N.E. suburb of 'Abbn.ii/jeh. Ttie
route here described is thus a direct continuation of that described in
Section 2. — The N.W. portion of Cairo (p. IS) contains little of interest.
From the Sikkeh el-Gedideh (p. 53), opposite the Gami' el-
Ashraf (PI. E, 3; p. 53), we enter the Shart' kl-Khordagitbh (Fl.
E, 3), which begins at the Selnl of Sheikh Motahhar, dating from
1700. This street is the continuation of the great line of thorough-
fares which runs from the Bab Zuweileh on the S. to the Bab el-Futuh
(p. 77) on the N.
To the right lies the entrance to the Khan el-Khalili (p. 54),
nearly opposite which is the Sfik es-S&,igli (pi. Siydgh^, or bazaar
of the goldsmiths and silversmiths, which consists of several crooked
lanes, barely a yard in width. The stalls present a very poor ap-
pearance, but the filigree-work is sometimes very good. The articles
Qiiarlerf. CAIRO. 4. UouU. 75
are usually sold by wciglit, and au oflldal guavaiit.ee ol' its corrent-
ness may be obtained in the bazaar.
From this labyrinth of lanes we return to the Shari" el-Khor-
dagiyeh, which is prolonged by the Sh'iri' el-Goharghjeh. On the
left side of this street are the striking red and white facades of
the Muristan Kalaun, the medreseh of En-Nasir, and the Darkilkiyeli
(see below and p. 76), which occupy what was once the site of a
small palace of the Fatimite sultan Mu'izz.
Opposite is the brnad Shari' Beit el-K&di, leading to the Beit
el-Kadi (P1. E, 3), or 'House of the Judge', originally a palace of
Kinir Mamai, a general of Kait Bey. The open veranda, with its
live lofty pointed arches, dates from this period. This court was
formerly the supreme tribunal of the country, and the appointment
of cadi, made by the government at Constantinople, was frequently
bestowed upon favourites, as it is a very lucrative post. Now, how-
ever, the cadi is always an Egyptian aiid his jurisdiction is limited
to questions of civil status (birth, marriage, inheritance). — We
return to the main street.
The *MTiristan KalS,6n (I'l. E, 3) is one of three buildings be-
gun by SulUm EL- Slanmr Kalaun (p. cxvii) in 1285 and finished
by his son En-Nasir in 1293, the two others being the mosque and
mausoleum mentioned below. They are the largest monuments of
their time and are of considerable architectural interest. They date
from the period during which the Arabian architecture of Egypt
began to be influenced by the European style introduced into Syria
by the Crnsaders. — The Muristan was once a vast hospital, the
greater part of which is now in a ruinous condition and occupied
by coppersmiths and other mechanics. Part of it contains a new
ophthalmichospital, erected by the Wakf Administration (p. Ixxxvi).
Originally there was a separate ward lor every known disease, be-
sides lecture-rooms lor students and an orphanage.
The large portal is constructed of black and white marble in
alternate courses. The doors show traces of their former covering
of bronze. The adjoining corridor has a richly carved wooden ceil-
ing. [The other corridors are vaulted in the Gothic style.] To the
left of the corridor lies the Mosque; to the right is the Mausoleum
of Kalaun, one of the most beautiful Arab buildings in Cairo. It
has been restored by Herz-Pasha. The forecourt, the elegant facade
of which is adorned with carved stucco ornamentation, is adjoined
by the mausoleum proper. This is covered by a handsome dome,
supported by four massive granite columns and four pillars. The
exquisitely carved and coloured wooden ceiling and the prayer-
recess, with its columns of red porphyry and its beautiful dwarf-
arcades, are noteworthy. The marble and mother-of-pearl mosaic
ornamentation of the walls and pillars is the finest of the kind in
Cairo. In the centre stands the sultan"s catafalque. The stucco
ornament.ition above the exterior of the W. exit may be noticed.
76 Route 4. CAIRO. 4. Northern
Adjacent to the Muristan is the Medreseh and Tomb of En-
N&sir, dating from about 1303 , now almost a total ruin.
'We enter it from the street by a marble portal in the Gothic style,
brought by Sultan El-Ashraf Khalil, the elder brother of En-Nasir, from
the church of Acre, which he destroyed in 1291. The door leads into
a corridor, on the right side of which is the tomb of En-Nasir (dome
collapsed), while t(j the left is the sanctuary of the medreseh. In' front are
tlie ruins of the main building, now containing coppersmiths' workshops.
The third large building is the *Barkftkiyeh, the medreseh of
SuUan Barkilk [138'2-99; p. cxTiii ), built in 1384. It possesses an
interesting marble portal and a bronze-mounted door. The greater
part of it has been thoroughly restored, and the colouring and gild-
ing applied to the sanctuary and mausoleum (in which a daughter
of Barkuk rests') are, unfortunately, much too loud. — Opposite is
a modern sebil.
The N. continuation of the Gohargiyeh is the busy Suari' en-
Nauhasin, with the market of tjie coppersmiths. To the riglit, be-
tween the Haret Beit el-Kadi and the Derb Kermez, are the remains
( stone below, brick above) of the huge facade of tlie palace of Dur
BeshtdkiPl. E, 3; p. clxxxiii), which was erected in 133Uby the Emir
Beshtak on the foundations of a palace of the Fatimite caliphs (eutr.
from the Derb Kermez). The interior still retains traces of its ela-
borate decorations, wliilc tlie main room of the harem (Ka'a ; inacces-
sible) is well preserved. — At the intersection of the street with the
Shari' el-Tombakshiyeh (p. 77) stands the SebU 'Abd er-Rahman^ one
of the prettiest structures of its sort in Cairo (18th cent.). On the
groiindfloor is the chamber for the distribution of the water, taste-
fully decorated with fayence. Upstairs is the hall of an elementary
school, commanding a striking retrospect of the busy street.
At tlie corner of the Haret es-Sannannin, farther on, to the
right, stands the GS.mi' el-Akmar (PI. E, 2), built in 1125 by Kl-
Ma'mun, the grand vi/.ier of Jll-Amir, the Fatimite. The facade,
now laid bare for the greater part, is the oldest mosque-fagade in
Cairo and therefore of considerable architectural interest (comp.
p. clxxix); it is built of liewn stone, with tall pointed arches in
rectangular frames alternating with small recesses in two stories. —
The street now becomes the SHAPa' el-Margush el-Barrani. On
the left, beside the modern mosque of Es-Selahdar, with its Turkish
minaret, the Haret Bir Gauan diverges through an archway and
leads in a zigzag to the Mosque of Abu Bekr Mazhar el-Ans&ri
(P1.E,2). ■ •
This mosque was built in 1480 by Abu Bekr, director of the chancery
of Sultan Kait Bey, in the style of the small mosques of the later Mameluke
period, and has been thoroughly restored. The walls and ceiling illustrate
the characteristic decoration of its date. Other noteworthy features are
the columns in the E. and W. liwans, the carved pulpit, and the pretty
doors. The central portion is domed. The coloured stucco window-
traceries are modern.
Farther on the street assumes the name Shari' Bab el-Fotuh.
On the right we soon reach the entrance of the ruinous —
Quarlcr.i. OAIHO. 4. Route. 77
Gft.mi' el-H&kim (I'l. K, 2), begun in 990, on the plan of the
Mosque of Ibn Tulun (p. 71), by Caliph El-'Aziz, and completed
by his son El-IIakim in 1002-1012. It was seriously damaged by the
earthquake of 1303, but was restored soon afterwards by Beybars II.
Under the French it was used as a fort. It now lies in ruins, -with
the exception of the sanctuary, which has a modern ceiling. The
two minarets, at either end of the W. wall, are noteworthy. Orig-
inally round, they owe their present cubical shape to a stirrounding
wall, built at a later date. In the case of the N. minaret, which is
incorporated in the town-wall (see below), the finely carved marble
windows and the Fatimitc inscriptions in its original lower portion
may still be identified. The dome-shaped tops, resembling Arabian
incense-burners (mabkhara), date from the above-mentioned restor-
ation. The N. minaret commands a fine view.
At the end of the Shari' Bab el-Futuh rises the Bfi,b el-Futuh
(PI. E, 2), or 'Gate of Conquests', which is connected by the ancient
city-wall with the Bab en-Nasr (PI. E, 2), or 'Gate of Victory',
165 yds. to the E. (reached by the Shari' el-Kassasin). These
two gates form the strong N.E. extremity of the old city-forti-
flcations. Together with the mosque of Caliph Hakim, situated
between them (see above), they formed a strong position for the
troops of Napoleon in 1790. These solidly built gates are, along
with the 15ab Zuweileh (p. 60), the only survivors of the sixty
sates in tlic Fatlmite walls of Cairo erected by the vizier Badr el-
Ganiali at the end of the lltli century. Their plan resembles
that of ancient Roman gateways. Each has an outer and an inner
gate, flanked by square or round towers and united by means of a
vaulted inner court.
The *AscENT of the towers and town-wall is highly recommended
(adm. 2 pias.). We first ascend the Bab en-Nasr, on which an old
gallows is still standing, then walk along tlie wall, the battlements
of whirh are partly preserved, to the Bab ol-Futuh, beyond which
the wall is <'Ontinued for some distance. The view ranges over the
city and, on the \V., to the Tombs of the Caliphs and the Gebel el-
Ahmar (p. 115). The return to the Bdb en-Nasr should be made
through the casemates, the finely pointed masonry of which includes
blocks (some inscribed) from carly-lCgyptian buildings.
In the Moslem cemetery outside I lie I'fib en-Nasr is buried Johaiin
Ludwig Bvrckhardt fd. 1817), known to the Arabs as 'Sheikh Ibrahim',
the distinguished oriental traveller. — From the Bab en-Nasr to the Tombs
of the Caliphs, sec p. 111.
We return from the Bab cn-Nasr by the Shari" B.\ii kn-Nasr,
passing (right) the Okella of Kait Bey, dating from 1480. Farther
on, in the Shaei' r.L-GAMALivEit (Fl. E, 2, 3), to the left, is the
Conventual Mosque of Sultan Beybars II. 1^1306-9 |, with the domed
tomb of the founder. We next follow the Sharf el-Tombakshiyeh
(p. 76) to the right to the Shari' en-Nahhasin. the Shiiri' el-Khorda-
giyeh, the Sikkeh el-Gedideh, and the Muski (_p. 53).
78 Route 1. CAIRO. /. ^orthern Quarters.
The principal thoroughfare of the N.W. quarter is tlie Shakt
Clot Bey (PI. B, 0,2), which runs to the N.W. from the Midaii el-
Khazindar to the Central Railway Station (p. 35). — In the Derb
cl-Wassa, to the W. of the Shari' Clot Bey, lies the Chief Coptic
Church (PI. C, 2), a modern building dedicated to St. Mark. (For
Coptic services, comp. p. 107. ) Adjacent are schools and the house
of the Orthodox Coptic Patriarch. — The Shari' Clot Bey ends at
the MiDAN or Plack Ramsi^.s (PI. B, 1, 2), which, at the instigation
of Viscount Kitchener, will eventually be adorned with the colossal
statue of Ramses II. found at Mit Rahineh in 1820 (comp. p. 144).
At the end of the Shari' Niibar Basha is the handsome modern
Seb7l of the Mother of hmd'U Pasha (PI. B, 2 ).
From the N.W. end of the Place Ramses the Shari' esh-Shuhra
leads past the Central Railway Station to the village of Shuhra
(beyond Pi. 15, 1), terminus of tramway No. 8 (p. 38; Hot.-Restaurant
Shubra). To the left in this street are the Asylum for Aged Men
and the Ecole Tewflkieh, with a training college; on the right is
the school of the Dames du Bon-Pasteur. At Sh\ibra is a now neglect-
ed khedivial garden (adm. in the absence of Prince Husein Pasha;
fee 5 pias.). — From the tramway-de'pot the road to Rod el-Farag,
on the Nile, the most N. harbour at Cairo, leads to the left (tram-
way No. 9). Steamer to the Barrage, see p. 39.
The Shari' el-Faggaxa runs to the E. from the Place Ramses,
and from it, a little farther on, to the left, diverges the Sham' ez-
/Ihir {ed-Daher; PI. C, D, 1), pleasantly shaded by lebbakh-trees.
In its prolongation is the Middn ez-Zdhir ( PI. E, 1), with the large
mosque of that name, erected by Beybars 1. (p. cxvii) at the end of
the 13th century. Its exterior walls only have been preserved.
From the Midan ez-Zahir the Shari' bl-'Abbasiyeh (PI. E, 1)
leads past a Seb'd on the site of the former Bab Huseiniyeh to the
quarter of 'Abb&siyeli (comp. Map, p. 105), in a healthy situation
on'the edge of the desert (tramway No. 3, see p. 38; rail, station of
Demirdash, see p. 120). It was founded by 'Abbas I. in 1849. On
the left 'side of the Shari' el-'Abbasiyeh is the Fadatviyeh Mauso-
leum (of the time of Kait Beyl, and farther on, at the N. end, are the
Egyptian Army Military School and Barracks. 'Abbasiyeh contains
also most of the foreign hospitals mentioned on p. 40 and the
Government Lunatic Asylum. — To Kubbeh, Matariyeh, and the
new villa-quarter of Heliopolis, see pp. 119, 120.
5. Sdlak, Gezireh, and the Gizeh Suburb.
Comp. the Map^ p. 105.
Bfil&k (or Bulaq\ the quarter situated beyond the now fllled-
in Isma'iliyeh Canal , is reached from the Ezbekiyeh by following
the Shdri' Bv.ldlc (-p. 62^ and crossing a railway -siding (tramways
Nos. 2 & 6, p. 38). To the left of the level crossing is the Scottish
d. Gezheh. CAIRO. 4. Route. 79
Presbyterian Church of St. Andrew (p. 42), to tlie right a French Pro-
testant cha]>el. Straight on beyond tlie railway line runs the busy
Shdri' Abu'l 'Eia, whlcli traverses the whole quarter and with its
narrow side-streets and lanes affords a more characteristic picture
of oriental lite than Cairo proper. At the end of this street are the
picturesque Gatni' Abu'l Ela ami the new BCddk Bridge (300 yds.
long) to Gezireh, built in 1909-12, with a central lifting span
(closed for traftic daily 12-12.45 p.m. and 8-3.45 p.m.). — Another
important thoroughfare, the ShSri' es-Sdhil (PI. A, 4), leads to the
N. of the Egyptian Museum past the building of the Road Board
(Tanzim) and the Hospital of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals, to the W. end of the Shari' Abu'l 'Ela.
At the N. end of Biilak is the Arsenal (1835), with a manufac-
tory of weapons. Of the several mosques the most interesting is
the Gdinf es-Sindnlyeh, built in 1573 by Sinan, the Turkish gover-
nor under Selim II. Bulak boasts also of several churches, a Khe-
divial Technical School, the Government Model Workshops, a House
of Correction for Women, and the Government Printing Office.
The Kasr en-Nil Bridge (Arab. El-Kubri; PI. A, 5; 420 yds.
long), at the end of the Shari' el-Kubri, unites the new town with
Gezireh. Early in the morning a picturesque crowd of peasants
may be seen here with the wares they are bringing to market.
The bridge is opened for the passage of vessels for about li/ohr.
daily (generally 1.30-3; see notice-boards) and is then impassable.
— A shorter route from the Ezbekiyeh to Gezireh is offered by the
above-mentioned Bulak Bridge.
The Gez'tret Bulak, usually known simply as Gezireh or Oezira
(island), an island in the Nile, is a fashionable resort. From the
Midan el-Geztreh (tramway, see p. 80), immediately adjoining the
Kasr en-Nil Bridge, the Sikket cl-Gezireh leads to the right to tlie
fashionable villa-quarter of Gezireh, passing (on the right) various
pleasure establishments and attractive public gardens and (on the
left) the Anglo-American Hospital and the grounds and racecourse
of the Khedivial Sporting Club (p. 42). In the villa-quarter are also
the Ghezireh Palace Hotel (p. 36), the Gezireh Grotto, with the
Aquarium (open 8.30-5 : adm. 1/27 on Sun. 1 pias.), containing an
interesting collection of Nile-flsh, and the German Institute for
Egyptian Archaeology (p. 42), — Farther on the Sikket el-Geztreh
curves to the S. and joins the Shari' el-Gizeh (p. 80).
Beluw Gezireh the Nile is spanned by the Embdbeh Railway Bridge,
which can be used ulso by lodt-passerigers and carriages. The station on
the left bank is known as Embdbeh (pp. 32, 143). This was the scene of
the 'Battle of the Pyramids', in whio)i thJ French under Bonaparte defeated
the Mamelukes (July 21st. 179S).
The Shari' cl-Kubri el-A'meh runs to the left from the Mlddn
el-Gezheh\see above) through the S. part of Gezireh, which is occu-
pied by *Gardens . much frequented especially in the afternoon.
This street, shaded by lebbakh-trees and popular as a 'corso', crosses
80 Route 1. CAIRO. 6. Egyptian Mmeum:
the so-called Font des Anglais, spanning the W. arm of the Nile,
and, under the name of Shdri' el-Glzeh, skirts tlie river througli
Oizeh Suburb, a new villa -quarter. [The Shari' Mahattet Bulak
cd-Dakrur, which diverges to the right, leads to Bulak ed-Dakrur
(p. 143).] On the right, at the corner of the Shari' el-Brinsat, is
the Survey Department (director, E. M. Dowson), and opposite is
the MUdMyeh of the province of Gizeh. Farther on are the public
Gizeh Gardens, behind which lie the Polytechnic School and the —
Zoological Gardens (open daily, 9 till sunset; adm. 1/21 on
Sun., when a military band plays, 5 pias.; cafe-terrace), which are
rich in rare African animals and birds. The beautiful park itself,
52 acres in extent, is worth visiting for the magnificent royal palms
fOreodoxa regia), papyrus reeds, lotus plants, and other character-
istic Egyptian vegetation. — Tlie road next reaches the N. end of tho
little town of Gizeh, where, at the station known as Gtzeh Village,
it joins the tramway to the Pyramids (No. 14, p. 38). To the right
is the Oovernment School of Agriculture.
Gizeh or Giza, an uninteresting town with 16,500 inhab., is the
capital of the province of Gizeh (400 sq. M., with a population of
460,080). Tuesday is market-day. — For the Pyramids of Gizeh,
see p. 123.
6. The Egyptian Museum.
Tramways (Nos. 1, 12, 1.5, & 17J, sec pp. 38, 39.
The **Egyptian Museum (Musee Egyptien du Caire, Arab. El-
Antikkhdneh), containing Egyptian and Greek antiquities found in
the valley of the Nile, lies in the Shari' el-Antikkhaneh el-Gedideh,
not far from the Kasr en-Nil Bridge. Founded by the French Egypt-
ologist Aug. Mariette (1821-81) in 1857 and originally housed at
Bulak, the Museum was greatly enlarged by later directors (Grebaut,
De Morgan, Loret, and especially Maspero) and is by far the largest
and most important collection of its kind. Its growth is steady and
rapid, owing to the regular archaeological enterprises of the Egyptian
Department of Antiquities, to purchases, and to the proceeds of
foreign excavations, half of which have to be surrendered to the
Museum on request. — The present Director (and also Director-
General of the Egyptian Department of Antiquities) is Sir Gaston
Maspero; the Conservators are Emil Brugsch- Pasha, Ahmed- Bey
Kumal, and G. Daressy. — General Catalogue Q Guide to the Cairo
Museum'; 1913), by Sir G. Maspero, 20 pias. Comp. also L.Borc/iarcZt'«
'Kunstwerke aus dem agyptischen Museum zu Cairo' (Cairo, 1908).
The Museum is open in winter daily, except the great Mo-
hammedan ( Beiram and Kurban Beiram) and public festivals, from
9 till 4.30, in summer' (May- Oct.) from 8.30 to 1, on Frid.
tliroughout the year from 10 to 12; admission 5 pias. (in summer
1 pias., Mon. free). Sticks and umbrellas are given up at the en-
trance (no fee).
MUSEE DES
alier Oal^r
prd-Ouesl )
G ,^ L e_ T
\ .1 . .'*ii'.
- MUSEE DES ANTIQUITES EGYPT lENNES
IMZMl
If \l :[...] if '!^rf
S^
f ' ^ ''.■■•''If
V-^ fi..M^.. ...
■^M
N
Oround floor. CAIUO. 4. lioulc. 81
Stuuemts of special subjects should apply to the director or to one of
the conservators. — There is no restrictinn on Copying. Sketchin<;, or
Photographing the exhiliits, except that the permission of the director is
required for scttin;^ up an oasel or tripoii-stand. — In the Sale Room (see
helowj antiquities (the genuineness of which is guaranteed by the Museum
authoritie.«) may be purchased; also photographs, picluri- pust-cards, and
the official publications of Ihe Jluseum. Travellers going on to Upper
Egypt should provide themselves here with a General Admission Ticket
of the Service des AntiquiUs de rEgypte (comp. p. 200), admitting them to
all monuments.
The museum-building, covering an area of 14,330 sq. yds., was
crei.'ted in the Grjcco-Roman style in 1897-1902 by M. Dourgnon,
at a cost of over 5,000,000 fr. In the front-garden rises a Bronze
Statue of Mariette (p. 80), by Denys Puech (1904), behind the
marble sarcophagus of the great Egyptologist.
The centre of the main fagade is occupied by a porch flanked
with two massive pillars. Above these are two alto-reliefs by Ferd.
Faivre, representing Upper and Lower Egypt. On both sides of
the porch are colonnades for the exhibition of monuments of a large
size. At the corners are two pavilions, that to the left accommo-
dating the Library, that to the right the Sale Room (see above).
The brown lettering on our Plan refers to the rooms on the ground-
floor, the black lettering to the corresponding rooms of the upper floor.
The letters (A, B, etc.) designating the different rooms are marked on the
walls. — At the entrance to each room of the groundfloor hangs a diagram
showing the positions of the larger and more important objects. This
should in each case be consulted as the frequent rearrangement of the
f xhibits prevents absolute accuracy in our description (comp. p. 90).
A. Ground Flooe.
On the groundfloor are the more ponderous monuments. Oppo-
site the entrance is the —
KoTUNDA, forming the centre of the Principal Gallery (see below
and p. 89). In the four niches are colossal statues: 615, 616, Two
king^ of the Middle Empire, afterwards usurped by Kamses II. ;
11. Ramses II. ; 12. Amenhotep, the son of Hapu, a sage of the
time of Amenophis III. (18th Dyn.). Farther on by tlie pillars,
to the lelt, 510. Statue of Scsostris III., to the right, 509. Statue
of a king of the 13th Dyn., both from Karnak. — In the Portico
(Portique des quatre Fillers) behind the liotunda are two large
wooden boats found near the N. Pyramid of Dahshi'ir.
Principal Gallery (Grande iialerie cCJIonneurJ, West Wing:
liy th<! pillars. 13. Colossal statue of Sesostris I. as Osiris, from
Abydos; 17. Statue of the same king, from Karnak. — Sarcophagi
of the Ancient and Middle Empires, behind most of whii;h stand
large door-shaped steles. — 30. Alabaster coffin from Dahshur;
44. Granite coffin of Khufu-onekh, adorned on tlu; outside witli
doors through which the deceased might quit his coffin; 34. Cofflii
of Tegi, from Thebes, with representations on the inside of food,
weapons, and ornaments for the use of the deceased in the future
oL Route i. CAIRO. 6. Kyyptian Muxcum.
life; 38. Wouileii coffiii of Prince Ainenemhet, with a smaller one
witliin it. — i5y the pillars, 518, 519. Colossal statues of Sesostris 1.,
from Karuak. — 50, 51. Low reliefs from the tomb of Sahu.
50. The deceased sits at a lable covered with sacrificial gifts (meat,
(liiwers, and fruits), while other gifts are brought to liim by servants.
51. Sabu is being Ijorne in a litter, while below servants carry statues
of the deceased to the tomb; the victims are dismembered; the deceased
sails ou the Nile; he visits his flocks.
Vestibule of the South West Staircase (Vedibule d'EscaUer
Sud-Ouest). — S. wall: 61. Reliefs from the wall of a tomb represent-
ing Governor Ipi, with his wife Senbct and two daughters, inspect-
ing the harvest operations, and Ipi borne in his litter to the river,
upon which boats are floating.
We now turn to the right and enter the rooms containing the —
KEonuments of the Ancient Empire (ea. 2980-2475 B.C.).
Tlie first iour rooms (A-D ) contain the monuments of the 3rd-
6th Dynasties, found mostly at Gizch, Sakkara, and Abydos.
Gallery A. Statues, walls of tombs, false doors. — By the
pillars, Wall-paintings from the mastaba of Ra-hotep (comp.
p. 83), in which the silhouettes of the figures are hollowed out
and filled in with various pigments : to the right, snaring birds
and ploughing, to the left, a hunt in the desert. — Nos. 91, 92.
Two alabaster tables of offerings. Two lions support each of the
tables in a slightly tilted position, so that the libations ran down
into a vase placed between the tails of the lions. - — In Case A arc
four royal statues: 96. Khephren , 97. Mykerinos, 98. Nuserre
(5th Dyn.), 99. Menkewhor; *10'2. Upper part of the wooden statue
of a woman. — By the projecting walls on each side of this case,
Reliefs from the mortuary temple of King Sehure (5th Dyn.l at
Abusir (p. 1411 '■ E- Slaughter of cattle (below) and Personifications
of provinces presenting their ofl'erings (abovel; P. Two rows of
figures bearing gifts, with personifications of the Ocean, Sacrifice,
and Grain; A. King Sehure suckled by the goddess of the South,
with the goat-headed god Khnum standing by; B. Spoils of war from
Libya, wlilch the goddess of writing catalogues. — 85. Inscription,
in which Uni, a high official, gives an account of his career under the
first three kings of the 6th Dynasty. 111-113. Rock-reliefs from
Sinai, with King Snofru overcoming a Semitic Beduin. *88. Reliefs
in wood, depicting Hesi-re standing and seated at a meal.
**RooM B contains the artistic masterpieces of the Ancient
Empire.
Opposite the entrance: **140. Wooden statue from Sakkara,
known as the Sheikh el-Beled (village-headman), a uame given to
it by the Arabs on account of its resemblance to a well-fed speci-
men of that modern functionary.
The feet, which had been broken off, are re,stored in old wood. The
arms are separately worked and attached to the body. The upper part
of the body and the legs are bare, while from the hips hangs an apron.
Ground Floor. CAIRO. 4. Rontr. 88
In the haad is the long rod of office (modern). The nmnd head, with its
short hair, and the portrait-like, pood-natnred face are remarkabl)' life-
like. The eyes are inserted. The.v consist of pieces of opaque white quart/,
with pupils I'ormed of rock-crystal, and the.v are framed with thin plates
of bronze, the edges of which form the eyelids.
*138. Diorite statue of King Khephreii , fouinl in the valley
temple of Khepliren, the so-called Granitic Temple (comp. p. 136).
The king is represented in life-size, silting on a throne, which is bnrne
liy two lions. At the sides of the seat are the arms of Egypt, and on
the back is a falcon, protecting the king's he;ul with its outspread wings.
*141. Statue of an oflicial, sitting with crossed legs and writing;
tlie eyes are inserted and the colouring has been well preserved.
Case E. Copy of a group representing King Mykerinos and his
wife. Figures of servants of the Ancient Empire. 3155. Nude hoy
carrying a bag and a pair of sandals; 315G. Woman brewing beer;
3157. Servants lining beer-jars with pitcli ; 3158. Woman grinding
corn; 3159. Baker; 3160. Man sitting before the fire roasting meat
and shielding his face from the glow with his left hand. — Case F.
226. Mykerinos between Hathor and a goddess of an Upper Egpytian
nome; Statues of the Ancient Empire. — 136E. Relief representing
Ra-hotep and his wife Nofret (see below) watching the capture of
birds and the landing of a papyrus boat ; 132, 133. Two large granite
palm-columns from the mortuary temple of King Onnos (p. 165);
136F. Ra-hotep and his wife at a hunt in the desert and inspecting
cattle. — Case A. Statues of the Ancient Empire. 146. Sitting
figure of a man with a long wig; 147. Seated figure of Hekenu. —
Case B. 224. Mykerinos between Hathor and the goddess of the
Theban nome; *149. Wooden figure of a man in a cloak; 151. Priest
of the dead kneeling. — 155. Large tombstone of Ne-kew-re and
his wife, of admirable workmanship; 157. Alabaster statne of My-
kerinos. — Case C. 225. Mykerinos between Hathor and the goddess
of the nome of Diospolis Parva (p. 244); 159. Statue of the dwarf
Khnemhotep ; 161. Limestone statue of a nude boy. — Case D.
Statues and family groups. — 142. Seated figure resembling No. 141
(see above), along with which it was found, but probably represent-
ing another personage; 136D. Kelief from the mastaba of Ka-hotep
(see below), with servants and women representing the villages that
belonged to the deceased and bringing sacrificial gifts; *137. Re-
presentation in stucco of six geese, from the same tomb; 131, 134.
Palm-columns from the mortuary temple of King Sehure at Abusir
(p. 141).
Room C. In the centre, 202. Lotus-column with a bud-capital,
from the grave of Ptahshepses at Abusir (p. 142).
**I\oost D. In the centre, **223. Limestone statues of Prince
Ra-hotep and his wife Nofret, from his mastaba near Meidum
(p. 205), the colouring still remarkably fresh and the facial ex-
pression excellent (end of 3rd Dyn.).
*230. Embossed copper statue of King Phiops 1., 231. Similar
84 lynite i. OAIIIO. 6. Eijyptimi Museum:
statue of bis son Mercnrc, botli t'roiu Hierakoiipolis (p. 337);
233-237. Fragments from the walls of tombs (233. Flute and liarp
players, singers, dancers, and two people beating time ; 234, 237.
Boatmen fighting; 235. An ape biting a man in the leg; 236. The
deceased Eiikbeftka receiving from bis attendants the products of
his estates and different objects for his tomb-equipment. — 229.
Statue of Ti, from Sakkara (p. 154); 232. Tomb-relief (herdsmen
with their cattle; below, fishermen and herdsmen preparing a meal;
to the right, below, brewing); 221, 222. Fine clustered papyrus-
columns (p. clix), from the mortuary temples of Kings Nuserre and
Sehure (p. 141); *227, *228. Limestone statues of the priest Ra-
nofer, from Sakkara ; 238. Fragments of reliefs from the Sanctuary
of the Sun at Abu Gurab (p. 140).
Monuments of the Middle Empire and of the Hyksos Period
(Dynasties XII-XVI; 2000-1580 K.C.).
We pass through Uoom E, with monuments of the period be-
tween the Ancient and Middle Empires, into —
Room F. In the centre, *280. Wooden statue of the tutelary
genius (Ka) of King Hor, represented as a nude man, bearing the
hieroglyph Ka (two raised arms) on his head; the statue was
found in the king's tomb by the S. Brick Pyramid at Dahshur
(p. 167), where it stood in a wooden shrine (No. 281). — *284.
Limestone statue of Ainenemhct III., from his mortuary temple
(p. 194); 285. Table of offerings of Princess Ptah-nofru, in ala-
baster; 286. Granite statue of Queen Nofret, wife of Sesostris I.,
from Tanis ; 287. Kude painted sandstone statue of King Mentu-
hotep III. as Osiris, from his rock-tomb at Deir el-Bahri (p. 305). —
We return to Room E and thence enter —
*RooM G. In the centre, *300. Tomb-chamber of Harhotep, con-
taining his limestone coffin and adorned with pictures of house-
hold utensils required by the deceased; *301. Ten colossal lime-
stone statues of Sesostris I., from Lisht (the fine reliefs on the
tlirone should be noticed). 307-310. Boxes for entrail-vases.
By the walls and in Cases A and B : Statues of kings and pri-
vate persons of the Middle Empire, from the 'Karnak Cachette'
(p. 278). — 311. Lower part of a tomb-wall with a relief of a King
Entef ( 11th Dyn.) accompanied by liis hounds, found, like No. 322,
at Drah Abu'l Negga (p. 2831; 301-306. Statues of Sesostris I. as
Osiris, from Lisht. Against the E. face of the central pillar between
Rooms E and G: 322. Tombstone of the nomarcli Entef.
Room H. 360. Tombstone of Prince Mentuhotep.
Monuments of the New Empire (Dynasties XVII-XX; 1580-1090 B.C.).
Room I. Statues and steles of the ISth Dynasty. — Against the
E. face of the E. pillar between Rooms H and I; 417. Large in-
scription of Amosis I., from Abydos. — By the walls (beginning to
Ground Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. ^5
the left of tho entrance of Gallery J): 415. Statue of Amenophis II.;
410. Memorial stone of Amenophis III., referring to his victories;
*400. Statne of Thutniosls HI. as a young man, in green schist from
Karnak, representel as treading underfoot the nine bows sym-
bolizing the desert- tribes; 467. Memorial stone of Amenophis IV.
(p. cii) worshipping the sun; 40S. Amenophis IV. sacrillcing to the
sun; 466. Amenophis II. protected by the snake goddess; *4B2.
Statue of Amenhotep, son of Hapu (comp. No. 12, p. 81), with
aged features, from Karnak; *4r)6. Head of the goddess Mut (sup-
posed by some to be Oueen Teye, wife of Amenophis III. ), from
Karnak. — Case B. *451. Fine head in black granite with mild and
regular features, perhaps King Ilaremheb; *45'2. The Queen of
Punt (p. 2*23), a relief from the temple of Deir el-Bahri (p. 301);
455. Head of a king. — **445, 446. The chapel and the sacred cow
of the goddess Hathor, dedicated by 'J'hutmosis III., discovered near
the temple of Deir el-Kahri (p. 306) in 1906. The walls of the
chapel, the ceiling of which is painted so as to imitate the vault
of heaven, are decorated with coloured reliefs representing Thut-
niosls 111. and women of liis family before the sacred cow and the
goddess Hathor herself. The cow is a masterpiece of Egyptian sculp-
ture, the head especially showing close observation of nature; in
front of it stands the dead king, painted in black, while the living
king is represented as drawing milk from the udder. 444. Painted
sandstone statue of Mut-nofret, the mother of Thutmosis II. — Case A.
*425. Statue of Isis, the mother of Thutmosis III., with a gilded
diailem, from Karnak ; 426. Statuette of a king, in petrified wood. —
*'l:22. Triumphal monument of Thutmosis III., from Karnak.
In the upper part appears tlie kiny; sacrificing in Amnn-Re, with the
p.ttrori-goddess of Thelii'!! beliitirt liim. In the potitic inscription the king
is hailed as a viclor l>y Anion, and tlio conquered lands are enumerated.
Gallery .1. Monuments of the Middle and New Empires. — Be-
ginning on the S. at the two pillars: 531. Sandstone table of offer-
ings, dedicated by a King Ameni-Entef Amenemhet (13th Dyn.).
532. Colossal bust of a king of the Middle Empire; the name of
King Merenptah (Ameneplithes; 19th Dyn.~) on the breast is a later
addition. 533. Fine alabaster table of ofl'erings, dedicated by Se-
sostris II.; 50S. Head of a king, in grey granite, found in Bubastis.
— Statues of kings with high cheek-bones, folds about the mouth,
and other pertiliar and foreign facial characteristics, and with hair
auti beards unlike those of Iilgyptians; these were formerly regarded
as llyksos princes (p. ci), but are now attributed with greater pro-
bability to the end of the 12th Dyn.: *500-503. Sphinxes, in black
granite, found in Tanis; 504. Group in grey granite from Tanis,
representing two water-deities, offering fish on lotus-stems, while
they carry other fishes and birds in snares (on the front is en-
graved the name of King Psusennes, p. civ) ; 497. Upper part of the
colossal statue of a king, from Mcdiiiot el-Faiyum. — *496. Group
of Thutmosis IV. and his mother; 493, 491. Statues of the lion-
oh Rotde d. CAIRO. 6. Efiyplhin Miixcmn:
headed goddess Sekhmet, dedicated by Amenopliis III. in the temple
of Mut at Karnak; *49i. Statue of the god Khons, from the temple
of Khons at Karnak (p. 262); 490. Sacred snake dedicated by Amen-
ophis II. in the temple of Athrihis, near Benha.
On the Staircase to the Upper Floor : (1.) 550. Colossal seated
lion, in red granite, from Tell Mokdam; (r.) 551. Praying cyno-
cephalus, in red granite, from the base of the great obelisk at Luxor.
GAiJiERT K. Tombstones and fragments of walls of tombs, of
the New Empire. — 560. Memorial stone of King Tiit-enkh-Amun,
referring to his buildings at Karnak; 562. Relief of a burial and a
funeral dance; 559. Similar relief from the tomb of Harmin.
Room L (temporary arrnngement). Statues and reliefs of the
New Empire. — By the column on the left: 578. Group of Amon
and Mut, dedicated by Sethos I. — *o88. Sacred boat In granite
from the temple of Ptah at Memphis; 581. Three sandstone blocks
from Karnak, with representations of a procession of the sacred boats
and of the dedication of the two obelisks by Queen Hatshepsut.
North Portico (Porttque du Nord). 592. Ramses II., seated
between Isis and Hatliov; 593. Ramses II. and tlie god Ptah-Tenen.
— *596. Stone with memorial inscriptions of Amenophis III., re-
ferring to his buildings for Amon, and of Amenephthes(Merenptahl,
referring to his victories over the Libyans ('Israel Stele").
This stood originally in a temple of Amennpliis III. at Thebes and
was alterwards used by King Ainenephtlies, who inscribed upon the back,
(turned towards the room) a hymn, concludinj; with the words : 'Israel
is wasted and his seed is brought to nought'. This is the earliest mention
of Israel in any Egyptian inscription. The stele was discovered by Flinders
Petrie in 1896.
612. Sarcophagus of Thntmo.«is I. ; 613. Sarcophagus of Queen
Hatshepsut.
Central Atrium (Atrmrn Central). This court contains the
largest and heaviest monuments, including the colossal figures with
which the Temple of Tanis was adorned (p. 172). On the N. stair-
case: *610. Colossal group of Amenophis III. and his consort Teye,
with their tliree daughters; in front of it, 635. Altar from the mor-
tuary temple of Sesostris I. at Lisht (p. 205); 611. Two chapels de-
dicated by Ramses II., with representations of the gods Re, Atum,
and Amon. — 620, 631, 633. Colossal statues of unknown kings (of
the Middle Empire), with the name of Ramses II. added at a later
date (from Tanis); 621, 632. King Smenkh-ke-re (13th Dyn.). —
In the S.W. corner, *614. Limestone coffin of a lady of the harem
of Mentuhotep III. (11th Dyn.), from Deir el-Bahri, with interesting
pictures on the outside (the deceased at her toilet, cows, etc.). —
In the centre: 634. Point from the pyramid of Amenemhet III.,
from Dahshur; Stucco pavement from the palace of Amenophis IV.
at Tell el-'Amarna (p. 212) including the representation of a pond
with lishes and water-fowl. — We return to the Nortli Portico and
pass tliTongh it and Room L to —
Ground Floor. CAIRO. d. Route. 87
Galleuy M. *()60. The celebrated 'Tablet of Sakkara', found
in a tomb at Sakk.ira, on one side of which is inscribed a hymn to
Osiris, while on the other appears the scribe Tunri praying to 58
Egyptian kings, whose names are arranged in two rows, beginning
with Miebis (1st l>yu.) and ending with Kamses II. •, CGI. Memorial
stone of iiamses II., referring to the working of a sandstone quarry
near Heliopnlis.
Gallery N. .Monuments of the New ICmpire. Stone coffins in
the form of mummies; statues of private individuals. — 673. Statue
of Amon; 675. Fine liead in granite from a colossal statue of Ram-
ses II. ; 704. r>roken lid of a sarcophagus of one of the sacred rams of
Mendes; 706. Bed of black granite with the miinimy of Osiris.
Uoo.M O ("Room of Apes'}. Chiefly monuments of the 19th and
■JOth Dynasties. — 765. (>roup representing the gods Horus and
Seth crowning Ramses III. (figure of Setii lacking), from Med inet
Habu; 768. The scribe Ranisesnakht, with Thout, the tutelar of
scribes, sitting on his shoulder. — Case A. 741. Bust of a princess,
with well-preserved painting, of the time of Ramses II.; *745. Busts
of a man and a woman, from Thebes; 743. Ramses VI. seizing a
Libyan. — 729. Upper part of the statue of a king; 728. Two obe-
lisks of Ramses II., praying cynoccphali, and small chapel with the
figures of a scarabaius and of the god Thout in the form of a cyno-
cephalus, from Abu Simbel(p. 40B); 725. Bust of King Ameneph-
thes; 724. Alabaster statue of a king. — Colossal statue of Ram-
ses II., in red granite, found at Erraent in 1913; the king is hold-
ing two poles to which are attached the heads of the falcon-headed
Horus and of Isis.
Monuments of the Foreign Dynasties and the Later Period (1090-332 B.C.).
Room Q ('Naos Room). Various chapels of goils (naoi) in granite.
— In the middle: 790. Fragments of a ohapel dedicated by Nek-
tanebos in the temple of Saft el-Hineh (p. 180) atBubastis, covered
with texts and religious representations; *791. Statne in green stone
of the goddess Toeris in the form of a hippopotamus, of marvellous
workmanship, found at Karnak (26th Dyn.). — 795. Memorial stone
of Ptolemy Sotor, found among the foundations of the mosque of
Shekhdh at Cairo (p. 71); it relates to a gift of lands to the gods of
Buto and is dated in the 7th year of the nominal reign of Alex-
ander II., whose satrap Ptolemy calls himself.
Ca.se C. 870. Tomb-relief of the Saite period, representing the
deceased watching the transport of ornaments intended for him. —
854-857. Table of offerings, Osiris, Isis, and Hathor as a cow, before
whom stands a man called Psamtik, all found in the tomb of the
latter at Sakkara (a good work of the later period). — 829. Fine
vase of black granite, dedicated to the god Thout by King Apries.
r>y the W. pillar (near the entrance to Room R) : 858. Memorial
stone of Ptolemy Philadelphus from Mendes (p. 172), relating to the
88 Route 4. CAIRO. G. Egyptian Museum:
lionours paiti to the sacred ram atMendes. — Ily the E. pillar: *851.
'Pithom Stele', or memorial stone of King Ptolemy Philadelphus,
from Pithom (p. 180), recording his exploits and his benefactions
to Egyptian temples.
Among the points mentioned are the facts that the king went to Persia
and brought back to Egypt the images of gods which the Persians had
carried olf, and that he sent a fleet of four ships under a general to the
S. parts of the Red Sea.
850. Memorial stone of Nektanebos, with a decree relating to
the taxation of the Greek factories and to the imports of Naucratis,
fonnd at that town. — We pass throngh IJoom 11 into —
ItOOM S. Ethiopian monuments. — In the doorway: 937. Me-
morial stone of the Ethiopian king Espelut (ca. 650 B.C.), refer-
ring to his accession. — In the middle, ^'930. Alabaster statue of
Queen Amenertais (25th Dyn. ; comp. p. 278). — 937. Memorial
stone of Piankhi (p. civ), referring to his victories over the minor
Egyptian princes; 938. Memorial stone of Tanutamun, referring to
his campaign against the Assyrians and their vassals in Lower Egypt;
939. Memorial inscription of Harsiotef, referring to his victories
over the Nubians; 941. Group of the god Amon and an Ethiopian
queen, from Meroe. — By the pillar at the entrance to Gallery X:
932. Statue of Osiris, dedicated by Nitocris, daughter of Psam-
metichos I. — We return through Room R and enter Room T.
Monuments of the Grseco-Koman and Coptic Periods
(4th cent. B.C. -7th cent. A.D.).
Room T. In the middle, 964. Money-box in the form of a snake,
from a temple at Ptolema'is. — E. wall : 972. Black granite statue
of an Egyptian scribe named Horns. — 973. Statue of a man bearing
a naos with an image of the god Horus, from Mit Rahineh.
Case A. 994. Tombstone or stele, sliowing a woman in a mourn-
ing attitude, to wliom a child hands a lyre (a Greek work of the
3rd cent. B.C.); *993. Marble head of a Gaul, an original Greek
work of the beginning of the Ptolemaic period, from Rhodes.
*983. The famous Decree of Canopus, in three languages, found
at Kom el-Hisn, 6I/2 M. to the S. of Naucratis.
The decree appears above in hieroglyphics, or the ancient Egyptian
written language, in the middle in the popular dialect written in the
demotic character, and below in the Greek language and lettering. The
decree was pronounced by an assembly of the priests iu the temple of
Canopus on 3Iarch 7th (17thTybil, 238 B.C., in the reign of Ptolemy 111.
Euergetes I. It praises the king for having brought back the images of
the gods from Asia, gained many victories, preserved peace in the land,
and saved it from imminent famine by his forethought in remitting taxes
and importing corn. In token of gratitude a resolution is passed to in-
stitute new festivals in honour of the king and queen and their ancestors,
to call all priests also 'priests of the divine Euergetse', to found a new
sacerdotal class to be named after Euergetes, and to introduce an improve-
ment in the popular calendar so that the festival of Euergetes may always
be celebrated on the first day of the year as in the year of the decree.
It is resolved also to pay permanent honour to the Princess Berenice, who
died young, and to celebrate an annual festival to her memory. The
Ground Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 89
inscriptions lastly declare that the decree is to be inscribed in the holy
(hieroglyphic), the Egyptian (demotic), and the Greek languages, and to
be exhibited in the temples.
980. Another copy of the same decree, found atTanis. — 1016.
Statue of a priest of Sobek, carrying a crocodile, the animal sacred
to that god. — Case B. *1010. Venus wringing the water from her
hair. — We pass through Room TJ into —
Room V. Coptic monuments, tombstones, and architectural frag-
ments. Fine *Capitals and ornamented friezes from the Convent
of Jeremiali at Sakkara (p. 146), and the Convent of Bawit (p. 218),
illustrating the transition from Byzantine to Arabic decoration. —
1041. Tombstone with the Madonna and Cliild between two angels;
1042. Fine capital from Alexandria.
Gallkry X. Monuments of the Later Period, of the Graeco-
Roman period, and of Coptic art. — 1080. Hathor capital, dedicated
to Neitli by Apries; 2004. Emperor in the guise of Pharaoh.
Case A. *1084. Head of Prince Mentemhet, with peculiar
features, probably of a negro type ; *1085. Head of the Ethiopian
king Taharka (the Tirhakah of the Bible), also with a negro cast of
features. — 2002. Front part of a lion, used as the spout of a gutter;
2000. Relief from Luxor, representing Isis and Serapis, the latter
strangling a gazelle.
Case B. Objects of foreign origin found in Egypt. 433, 434.
Small clay tablets with cuneiform inscriptions, found at Tell el-
'Amarna (see p. 212) ; 435. Cuneiform inscription of King Nebu-
chadnezzar relating to the buiUliug of a temple at Babylon.
Case C. Post-Christiau objects from the ancient Nubian cem-
etery of 'Anibeh (p. 402) : statues of the deceased represented as
souls in the form of birds, terracotta and glass vessels, Mero'itic
tombstones, etc. — Architectural fragments from the Convent of
Bawit and the Convent of Jeremiah at Sakkara (comp. above) in-
cluding columns, capitals, friezes, and niches; *Painted niche from
Bawit, showing (above) God the Father between the Archangels
Michael and Gabriel, and (below) the Madonna enthroned and the
Child Jesus between apostles and saints. — 2020. Coptic inscription,
ourid in a tomb near Deir el-Bahri which was used as a church,
containing a sermon against heretii-s and the customary prayer for
the emperor and his family.
Opposite the exit from Gallery X, at the E. end of the principal
gallery, are four columns and an architrave from the temple of
Augustus on the island of Philae. In this hall stands a marble statue
of a Roman woman (No. 2041).
Principal Gallery (Grande Galerie dHonneur), East Wing:
Against the pillars, 1083. Colossal statue of a Macedonian king,
perhaps Alexander II. ; Statue of a man of the Graico-Roman period
in Egyptian costume. — In the gallery. Large stone sarcophagi of
the Saite and Ptolemaic periods. — Against the pillars of the
Baedeker's Egyiit. 7tU Edit. 6
90 Route 4. CAIRO. 6. Egyptian Museum:
Kotuiicla(p. 81), *662, 663. Statues of the god Ptah from the temple
of Ramses 11. at Memphis. — For the W. "Wing, see p. 81.
We now asi'.end by the S.E. staircase to the upper floor.
B. Upper Floor.
As extensive alterations are to take place in the upper floor during
the next few years, many rooms are for the time being re-arranged or
closed; our description, therefore, can in many cases make no claim to
accuracy.
The upper floor contains chiefly the smaller antiquities, the
mummies, the gold ornaments, and the objects found in the Tombs
of the Kings at Thebes. We begin with the E. wing of the —
Principal Gallery f r/aierie d'Hrmneur), where are exhibited the
coffins and mummies of the priests of Amon and their families,
which were discovered at Deir el-Bahri (p. 305) in 1891. These date
from the period of the '21st and 227kI Dynasties. Each corpse had
an outer and an inner wooden coffin, both in the shape of a mummy
and covered with yellow varnish. The arms are crossed over the
breast, the men having their fists clenched while the hands of
the women are open. The women wear round earrings. The mummy
was generally enveloped in a kind of cover (cartonnage) forming a
full-length representation of the deceased. In many cases old
sarcophagi (19th and 20th Dyn.) have been used, and the original
names replaced by new ones.
In the E. half of the gallery: *2080. Wooden war-chariot of
Thutmosis IV., with beautiful reliefs embossed in linen covered
with plaster, found in 1903 in the king's tomb at Thebes (p. 298).
Adjacent is the reproduction of a war-chariot, the original of which
is in the Archaeological Museum at Florence. In the middle: Mum-
mies of the sacred rams of Elephantine (p. 358), with gold masks.
In the Anteroom (Pantheon <le I'Egyptologie) to the small galler-
ies along the S. front of the building are busts of eminent Egyptolo-
gists. In the E. Small Gallery (to the left) is the Collection of
Stone Implements (Objets en silex)^ chiefly dating from the pre-
historic Egyptian period. The W. Small Gallery (on the right)
contains the —
Natural History Collection (Objets d'histoire naturelle). Cases
A <?■ B. Plants from the coffins of the priests of Amon (p. 305)
and from the Falyum. — Cases D cf- E. Fruit and corn. — By the
walls : Flowers and garlands from the royal mummies. Palm tree
with a rudely carved head of Hathor, used as a column In the tomb
of Sennutem (p. 318). — Early Egyptian fauna. Two mummies of
crocodiles. — Cases C^- F. Skeletons of Bos Africanus and Buballs
Buselaphus. — Stand G. Mummies of birds. — Case I. Mummies
and coffins of apes, dogs, and jackals. — Case K. Cats. — Case L.
Calves; goats; gazelles. — Case M. Birds of prey. — CaseN. Ibises.
— Case O. Fish ; shells; coffin of a scarabseus.
Upper Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 91
We return to tlie W. wing of the Principal Gallery, wliicli
likewise contains coffins from the tomb of the priests of Amon (see
p. 90). — Turning to tlie right we enter —
Gallery A, which contains wooden coffins of various periods,
but later will have only those of the Ancient and Middle Empires.
Room B. Earliest period. — Case A. Objects from the tomb of
Menes (p. 224 ) and the ceraotery of Abusir el-Melek (p. 206); vases
in hard stone. — Adjacent is a glass case with objects dug up at
Abydos by Prof. Petrie: Fragments of vases with names of kings;
two stone vessels with stoppers of gold-leaf. — Case B. Other ob-
jects from the tomb of Menes: 3021. Ivory tablet with a sacrificial
scene and the name of King Menes; 3022. Lion in rock-crystal; lion
and three dogs in ivory; clay stoppers from beer-jars, sealed with
the king's name ; cow's feet in stone, used as the feet of chests ; flint
knives; arrow-heads; etc. — Case C. Articles from the royal tombs
of Abydos (p. 243): Stoneware; flint implements; clay stoppers
sealed with tiie names of kings; copper utensils; 3030. Elegant ala-
baster vase, with ornamentation imitating the cord by which the vessel
was carried; 3033. Seated figure of King Khasekhem (3rd Dyn.);
3031. Large schist palette of King Narmer (1st Dyn.), with reliefs,
from Ilierakonpolis (p. 337). — (^ases D^- E. Stoneware and earthen-
ware, flint knives, combs and toilet-articles, from burial-places in
Upper Egypt ; 3040. Vessel of diorito. (the ears of the vase, to which
copper handles are attached, are plated with gold); 3043. Flint knife
with an engraved hilt of gold plate; 3044. Knife with a gold handle.
— In the N.W. corner, between Cases D & E: 3052. Vase in red
granite, with the name and ligiire of King Khasekhinui (2nd Pyn.).
— Case F. Stoneware; 3000. Fragment of a schist palette with repre-
sentations of animals; 30H2. Kneeling figure in granite (3rd Dyn.).
— Cases G-J. Terracotta stoppers. — Cast K. Tombstones of royal
dwarfs and lap-dogs, from Abydos. — lietween the cases: Tomb-
stones of kings of the first dynasties, from Abydos.
Room C. Coffins and mummies, chiefly of the Ancient and Middle
Empires. — Case E. 3100. Mummy of Ament, a lady of the royal
harem, with necklaces and tatooing (11th Dyn.). — Case F. Coffin
with rude representations of men brewing and women grinding corn.
— 3107. Mummy of King Merenre (6th Dyn.), with a finely woven
cloth; 3108. Wooden coffin, standing on a bier with lion's feet.
Room D. Objects found in tombs of the Ancient and Middle
Empires. — Case A. Wooden models of boats which were used for
pleasure-trips or for conveying the ilead. — Case B. I'Mgures of fe-
male servants with sacrificial offerings; models of kitchens; 3124.
Potter's workshop; 31211. Joiner's workshop; 3l2(t. Master and
mistress of a house listening to their servants singing and playing
on the harp. — Case C. 3136. Mode! of a kitchen in whieli a butcher,
a cook, and a brewer are at work; 3137. Wooden chest with bronze
models of sacrificial vessels. In the desk-case: Models of sacrificial
6'*
92 Route 4. CAIRO. 6. Egyptian Museum:
utensils. — Case D. '-'Small limestone statue of a harp player; small
bronze tables with vessels; head-rests; models of sacrificial geese. —
Case E. Models of boats and storehouses; kitchen; servants with
sacrificial offerings; wooden and gilded models of sandals; head-
rests. — Cases F if G. Wooden models of boats. ■ — • Case H. Boats;
wooden figures; statuettes of servants; 3195, 3196. Two female
servants, each with a basket on her head and a goose in her hand ;
3194, Kitchen. — Case I. Boats, in one of which are soldiers with
shields; models of storehouses. — Case J. Figures of servants;
cattle feeding. — Case K. Figures of attendants; 3224. Man carry-
ing boxes. In the middle: 3220. Wooden figure of a man in whose
tomb most of these figures were found (6th Dyu.j. — Case L. Models
of boats; small barks of the sun.
Room E. Coffins of the late period. — 3262. Wooden bier from
Akhmim. — Case A. (Jartonnage of the niuinmy of a woman, from
Thebes (22nd Dyn. ), fresh and beautiful in colonr.
Room F. Objects found in tombs of the Middle and New Em-
pires. — In the centre : (Hass Cases H ^' 1. Two wooden coffins from
Benihasan, on which stand (in their original arrangement) models
of kitchens, ships, barns, and figures of attendants. — Glass Cases
J Sf K. *3345. Forty Flgyptian soldiers with shield and spear, *3346,
Forty negro soldiers with bow and flint-headed arrows, found in the
tomb of the Nomarch Mesehti of Assiut. — Glass CaseF. 3347. Large
wooden boat, with two cabins, from the snmc tomb. — Behind Case F:
*Two coffins and mummy-mask of Mesehti. — By the walls: Case A.
Models of houses and barns, in terracotta and wood, being gifts to
the dead. — Case B. Canopic jars. — Case C. Wooden head-rests;
Ushebtis (p. cxlviii). — Case D. Sticks, sceptres, clubs; wooden
models of weapons and utensils. — Case E. Wooden models of
shields; mummy-masks. — CaseF. Bronze, fayence, and alabaster
vases for oil. — Case G. (Janopic jars; alabaster vases in the form
of slaughtered geese. — Cane II. Terracotta models of kitchens;
wooden baskets with models of sacrificial offerings.
Room G. <Jrnaments and amulets of mummies. — Cases A ^' Y.
3370, 3600. Two mummies of the later period with masks, breast
ornaments, and other adornments of gilded and painted cartonnage.
— Case B. Above, Wooden grave tablets of the later period ; wooden
head-rests ; in the desk-case, scarabaei, which were laid on the breast
of the mummy in place of the heart. — Case C. Above, Wooden
grave tablets; models of women lying on beds, the harem of the
deceased. In the desk-case, scarabsi from the breasts of mummies.
— Cases D, //, K^ N, Q, £?' U. Canopi, or jars for the entrails of the
dead, with lids in the shape of the heads of the guardian deities
of the deceased (p. cxlix). — Case E. Above, Wooden boxes for
ushebtis, or figures of the dead; in the desk-case, Amulets from
the breasts of mummies; tablets with eyes, which were laid on the
dead at the spot where tlie incision was made for the embalming. —
V-pper Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 93
Case F. 3365. Figure of the goddess Nephthys, protecting Osiris. —
Case 0. Above, Wooden boxes for ushebtis. In the desk- case,
Tablets with eyes (see p. 92); falcons with outspread wings. —
Cases I, J, L, (S- M. Figures of the dead, including one belonging to
the vizier Ptahmose (No. 3377) in white and blue fayence; 3375.
Amenmose, in bronze; 3378. Bier with a mummy beside which is
seated the soul ; small coffins with ushebtis. — Cases 0-R. Above,
Mummy masks; bead-nets of mummies; small wooden coffins with
falcons' heads, for the entrails of the deceased; in the desk-case,
Amulets; magic wands with curious representations. — Case S.
3505. Wooden figure of Isis (companion-piece in Case F ). — Case T.
Above, Wooden figures of Osiris. In the desk-case, Eyes and other
amulets. — Case V. Above, Figures of Osiris; wooden falcons. In
the desk-case, Round tablets with representations of the gods, whicii
were placed under the heads of the mummies as amulets. — Case X.
Parts of the coverings of mummies; a boat. In the desk -case,
Leather ends of mununy-straps with pictures stamped on them.
Royal Mummies.
Towards the close of the New Empire the vower of the Egyptian state was
no longer in a position to protect even the last resting-places of the dead.
Not only the necropoli.' at Drah Abn'l Negga (p. 283), btit even the secluded
tombs in the 'Valley of Kings' (p. 284) were plundered. The authorities
i-ontentfd themselves with rescuing the mummies of the ancient Pharaohs.
Thus the bodies of nine kings were walled up in a side-chamber of the
tomb of Amcnophis II. Eur the same reason the mummy of Kamses II. was
transferred from its tomb at Biban el-Muluk (p. 287) to that of Sethos I.,
and when that refuge ceased to be deemed secure it was removed to the
tomb of Amenophis I. Finally, under the 21st Dyn., it was resolved to
protect the royal mummies from further profanation by interring them all
together in a rocky cleft near Deir el-Bahri (p. 305;, which was artificially
widened for the purpose. The corpses of the ruling dynasty also were
placed here. Thus at last the remains of the great monarchs of the New
Empire — Amosis I., Thutmosjs III., Sethos I., and Ramses II. — were left
in peace until in 1875 the fellahin once more discovered their secret resting-
place and the plundering of the mummies began again. In 1881 the modern
thieves were traced and their finds secured fir preservation in the museum
at Cairo. It was not till 1898 that Loret discovered the group of mummies
in the tomb of Amenophis II.: and these were transferred to the Museum
in 1901. Other royal tombs (of Thutmosi.s 1. and II.) have since been
excavated by Loret and, in 1903-12, by the Egyptian Department of Anti-
quities, at the expense of Theodore M. Davis, of America. Comparatively
few mummies of kings or their relatives have been discovered in their
original tombs (comp. Room U).
Room H (Salle Theodore M. Davis). **Coffins and other articles
found in 1905-8 in the graves of Yu'e and his wife Tu'e (the pa-
rents-in-law of Amenophis III.), of Queen Teye (wife of Ameno-
phis III.), and of Queen Tewosret. — Case A. **3610-3tJl'2. Canopic
jars, witli beautifully executed heads of Amenophis IV. forming the
lids. — Case B. Couch with figures of the god Bes. — Case C. Bier,
on the linen of which is the figure of the so-called vegetating Osiris,
outlined in sown barley. — Case D. At the foot: Alabaster and
terracotta jars of Tewosret; vase of light green fayence with the name
34: Route 4. CAIRO. 6. lujijplian Museum:
of Sethos II. In the two upper divisions are objects from the tomb of
Teye : Three fine cosmetic-pots, small models of papyrus rolls, boxes
aud vessels, two small figures of Bes, woman carrying a jar (cos-
metic-pot), ail of light green fayence. — Case E. Lowest division:
Basket in the form of a house; sandals; alabaster vessels; wooden
model of a bier. Central division : Large col'fln for an usbebti, or
statuette of the dead ; gilded figures of the same kind ; wooden models
of vases. Upper division: Gilded mask of Yu"e; wooden cases;
bronze hoes and sacks for ushebtis. — Case F. Delicately execut-
ed ushebtis; cases for similar figures; fine alabaster jar; two small
masks from canopic jars (see below). — Cases G-J. Four wooden
coffins of Yu'e, which originally lay one within another, the three
inner ones gilded and in the form of a mummy. — Case K. Mummy
of Tu e. • — Cases L, S, T. Three coffins of Tu'e ; the smallest (inner-
most) coffin is gilded and its hieroglyphics and ornaments are beauti-
fully inlaid with gems and glass; the outermost, with an arched lid,
stands on a sled. — **Case M. Chariot of Tu'e; wooden chair decorated
with heads of women and with well-preserved cane-plaiting, while
on the back appears the Princess Sitamun, receiving the 'gold of the
Southlanders' ; gilded chair, on the back of which appear Queen Teye
and her daughter Sitamun in a boat; small chair, with cushion, the
back and sides showing the god Bes and the goddess Toeris; two
jewel-cases richly adorned with enamel. — Case N. Black wooden
bed painted in white in imitation of ivory inlay. — Case O. Bed
adorned with figures of Bes and Toeris. — Case P. *3682. Ushebti
figure in alabaster; 3683. Bowl of light blue fayence of King Tut-
enkh-Amun. — Case Q. Lowest division : Two boxes for the vessels
containing the entrails of Yu'e and Tu'e, in the form of coffins stand-
ing on sleds; four alabaster vessels, containing the embalmed en-
trails of Tu'e under a gold mask. Central division : Gilded mummy-
mask of Tu'e, enveloped in a fine linen cloth, which has turned
black; wooden vases painted to imitate stone. Upper division: Cases
with embalmed sacrificial offerings. — Case V. Mummy of Yu'e ; the
incision on the left sirle of the stomach, for embalming purposes,
is covered with a plate of gold.
*llooM I. Objects found in the royal tombs. — Case B. Wooden
models of barks of the sun. — Case C. Articles from the tomb
of Thutmosis IV. Above: Cow's head, vases, and articles shaped
like "T" ('crux ansata'), in blue fayence; fragments of embroideries
in the so-called Kelim style, vvitli lilies and the name of Thut-
mosis IV. In the desk- cases: Ushebtis and their coffins; magic
wands in blue fayence; 3750. Fragment of an ushebti in white
fayence with blue writing; leather quiver and sandals. — Cases
D-F. Articles from the tomb of Amenophis II. Above: 'Large
cow's head and calf's head, carved in wood; vessels in fayence and
glass; two serpents in wood, one with a human head 'and out-
Upper Floor. GAIHU. 4. Route. 95
spread wings. In the desk-cases below: Fragments of coloured glass
vessels. — Case E. Black wooden figures of the king; two wooden
panthers; wooden vulture; coffins for ushebti figures. In the desk-
cases below : Magic wands and 'cruccs ansata;" (see p. 94), of blue
fayence; weapons. — Case F. Above: Wooden swan; alabaster figure
of Horns; wooden figures of kings and of gods. Tn the desk-cases
below: Blue fayence vessels, some in the shape of the 'crux ansata'
(see p. 94). — Case G. Articles from the tomb of Thutmosis 111.
Above: Wooden swan; papyrus; below: Models of magic wands and
tools. — Case H. Above: 3744 a. Large wig; figure of Isis, whicli
contained the papyrus buried with Queen Hent-tewe; canopic jars;
below: Ushebti figures in blue fayence. — Case I. Above: 3746a.
Case with the mummy of a gazelle; wigs; below: Blue ushebtis. —
Case J. Above: 3750a. Case for the ushebtis of King Pinotem; fine
goblets in glass and fayence; 3751a. Wooden tablet with a decree
in favour of Princess Nes-khons; 3754a. Casket of wood and ivory
with the name of Ramses IX. In the desk-cases: 3760 a. Small coffin,
in which a human liver was found; embalmed portions of sacrificial
animals; fruit. — CaseK. Above : 3770. Reed casket with wig of Est-
em-kheb (p. 96); 3768. Inlaid casket of Queen Kemare-Hatshepsut
(18th Dyn.) with the entrails of Queen Kemare (21st Dyn.); 3769.
Marvellously fine winding-sheet from the mummy of Thutmosis III.;
below. Fayence goblet of Princess Nes-khons; 3771. Mirror-case
inlaid with ivory, from the tomb of Amenophis II. — Case L. Box
of palm-leaves, for sacrificial gifts; winding-sheets.
Gallery J (temporary arrangement). Articles from the tomb of
Me'i-her-peri, the fan-bearer (p. 297 ; 18th Dyn.). — Case A. Large
rectangular coffin, with a lid sliaped like a gable-roof; within this
is a second long mummy-shaped coffin (black, with gilding), which
never contained the mummy. — Case B. *3782. Quiver of red
leather with stamped ornamentation, a lid, and a green border;
arrows; dog-collar of pink leather, bearing the animal's name;
another leathern quiver, not so well preserved; bracelets and neck-
laces; blue fayence dish; *Polyclironie glass vase; draught-board and
men. — Case C. Chest for tlie entrail-jars, in the form of a naos
standing on a sledge. — Case D. 3807. Gilded wooden coffin that
contained the mummy of Mei-her-peri. — Case E. Wooden bier with
the painted figure of the vegetating Osiris (see p. 93). — Case F.
Partly gilded wooden coffin of Mei'-her-iieri. — Behind Cases D, E,
& F is Mei-her-peri's Book of tlie Dead (comp. p. 102), with col-
oured vignettes (one of the finest examples). — Stand H. Wooden
boxes with provisions for the dead. — Stand I. Large jars.
In the N. part of the gallery are articles found in the royal tombs.
— Case A. 3820. Coffin and mummy of Teu-hert, chief singer of
Amon; 3821. Coffin and mummy of the priest Nebseni. — Case B.
3822. Coffin and mummy of Masaherte, high-priest of Amon and
commander-in-chief, son of King I'inotom I.; 3823. Coffin and
96 Route 4. CAIRO. 6'. Eyyplian Museum:
mummy of a woman (18th Dyn.); 3824. Coffin of Senu. — Case C.
3825. Small white coffin of Princess Sitamun, daughter of Amosis I. ;
the mummy was stolen in antiquity and replaced by a doll with a
child's skull. 3826. Small coffln containing the mummy of a child.
— Case D. 3827. Coffin of Rai, nurse of Queen Nefret-ere (p. 97),
whose mummy was replaced in antiquity by that of a queen. —
Case E. Objects found in the tomb of King Haremheb (18th Dyn.),
which was discovered by Davis in 1908; head of the king in alabaster,
— CaseF. Other objects from the same tomb: wooden figures covered
with pitch (two hippopotamus-heads, lions' heads, jackals, seated
god, etc.). — By the pillars at the entrance to Room 1: Upper halves
of two colossal wooden figures of Haremheb.
**Galleet K (Landing of the N. W. Staircase). In the centre :
3840. Drawing prepared from the remains of a very artistic pall. —
Case R. 3841. Double coffln with mummy of Zet-Ptah-efonekh,
priest of Amon; 3842. Coffln of Queen Hent-tewe.
South Side of the Gallery. Case A. Lid of the coffln of Queen
Kemare. — Case B. 3845.Coffln with the mummies of Queen Kemare,
who died in childbirth, and her infant daughter; 3846. Coffln of the
priestess Nes-tenebt-asher (21st Dyn.); 3847. Coffln of Pinotem I.
— Case C. Coloured coffin-lid of Queen Kemare. — Case D. 3849.
Coffln and mummy of Princess Nes-khons ; 3850. Coffln of Queen
Notmet, mother of the priest-king Herihor (21st Dyn.), with fine
inlays of glass. — Case E. 3851. Coffin-lid of Pinotem I.; 3852.
Coffin and mummy of Pinotem XL, the high -priest. — Case F.
3853. Coffln of a high-priest of the 18th Dyn., with the mummy
of Ramses VI. — Cases I ^- J. 3854. Cofflns and mummy of Princess
Est-em-kheb; 3855. White coffln with the mummy of a poisoned
prince. — Case G. Coloured coffin-lid of Princess Est-em-kheb. —
Case H. 3857. Coffin and mummy of Ramses IV.; 3858. Mummy of
Ramses V.; 3859. Mummy of a King Ramses (20th Dyn.). — Case I.
3860. Coffln-lid of Amenophis I. (see below). — Case J. 3861.
Mummy of RamsesIII. ; 3862. Coffln andmummy of SiptahMerenptah
(19th Dyn.); 3863. Seth-nakht, father of Ramses III. — Case K.
Enormous coffin of Queen Ahhotep, wife of Amenophis I.
Centre of the Gallery. Glass Case L. Coffin and mummy of
Amenophis I., with garlands of flowers. — Glass Case M. Coffln
and mummy of Sethos I. — Glass Case N. Ramses II.
North Side of the Gallery. Case 0. 3868. Coffin -lid of
Ramses II. — Case P. 3869. Mummy of Ramses I. ; 3870. Mummy
of Amenephthes, son and successor of Ramses II. and considered by
the Alexandrian tradition to be the Pharaoh of the Exodus; 3871.
Mummy of Sethos II. — Case O. 3872. Coffin-lid of Sethos I. —
Case P. 3873. Coffln and mummy of Thutmosis IV.; 3874. Mummy
of Amenophis III. ; 3875. Mummy of a princess (18th Dyn.). —
Case Q. 3876. Coffln of a princess; 3877. Coffln of King Kemose;
3878. Coffin and mummy of Thutmosis III. — Case R. 3879. Gilded
Upper tioor. GAIKO. 4. Itouic. 97
cofflu-lid of Queen Ahhotep (p. 98). — Caic S. 3880. Coffin and
mummy of Thutmosis I. ; ^881. Thutmosis 11.; 3882. Mummy of
Nefret-ere. — Case T. 3884. Coffin and mummv of Sekeiiyen-
re III. (16th Dyn.); ^385. Amosis (17th Dyn.); 3886. Coffin and
mummy of Siamun, son of Amosis.
Jewelry.
**RooM L ( Jewel Room) contains the Egyptian jewelry, illustrat-
ing the art of working in gold and other metals from the earliest
times down to the Qrieco-Roman and Byzantine eras.
In Cases I & II, in the centre of the room, is the **Treasure of
DahsMr. which was discovered by Mr. J. de Morgan in 1894 and
1895 in the tombs of various princesses of the 12th Dyn. near the
pyramids of Dahshiir (p. 166), and shows the work of the Egyptian
goldsmiths at its very best.
Case I (W.). A. Jewels of Princess Ite: Dagger, the hilt in-
laid with gems, the crescent-shaped pommel in lapis lazuli; cornel-
ian falcon; fan. — **B-D. Jbwkls of Prinxess Khnumet. B. Four
gold necklaces of the finest workmanship, one adorned with a
butterfly, the others with rosettes and stars ; gold chain-pendants
inlaid with gems representing hieroglyphics. C. Necklaces, one of
which is formed of the three hieroglyphics for 'life', 'wealth', and
'endurance'; two falcons' heads inlaid with gems; bracelets of gold
beads. /). *Two gold crowns inlaid with gems; one of these con-
sists of a net held by six ornaments in the form of flowers and
adorned with forget-me-nots, the other consists of rosettes and lyre-
shaped ornaments. To the latter belong two other ornaments, a
hovering vulture and a gold branch. — E. Plates of silver and copper
for mirrors, chains, gold needles, etc. — F. Chains (rcstrung). —
At the top of the case : Chains and nets of gold beads (restrung)
and semi-precious stones.
Case II (E.). A. Jewels of the Princb.ss Itk-Weret: Large
breast-ornaments, bracelets, small chisels with gold blades. — B-D.
Jewels of Peixcess Mererbt. B. Portions of mirrors (head of
llathor, goddess of love; head of a lioness). C. Gold necklace with
small gold shell-shaped pendants; pendants in the form of larger
gold shells and double lion-heads. I). Gold pectoral or breast-
ornament inlaid with gems; at the top is a vulture with outspread
wings representing the goddess Nekhbeyet; below is the cartouche
of Sesostris III., to the right and left of which are two griffins, as
symbols of the king, each trampling upon two Asiatic foes.
Pectoral of the same kind; at the top is the vulture, below on
either side appears King Amcnemhet III., smiting a kneeling
Asiatic with his mace. Two gold bracelet-clasps with coloured gems
and the Tiame of King Amenemhet III. Gold shell, ornamented
with lotus-flowers inlaid in coloured stones; two gold tubes for
written amulets; gold necklaces and portions of necklaces; scarab;ei
oO Route 4. CAIRO. 6. Eijyplian Museum:
of semi- precious stones; rings with scarabaei. — E, Jewki.s of
Peincess Sit-Hathor. Gold pectoral inlaid with stones, with
the cartouche of Sesostris II. in the middle, on either side of
which is a falcon perched upon the hieroglyphic symbol for 'gold'
and wearing the Egyptian double crown; gold pendant inlaid with
stones, representing two water-lilies tied together, from which a
rattle (sistrum) depends; scarabaei; six gold lions; gold shells and
knots belonging to chains. — F. Jewels of King Hon and of the
Princess Nee-hetepti-khrot. Silver diadem inlaid with stones,
with the Uraeus-serpent in front; gold dagger-blade; necklaces and
bracelets ; two gold falcons' heads; clasps of a necklace; parts of a
fan, in semi-precious stones.
Case III. Amulets and jewelry found with a mummy of the
26th Dyn. at Haw.nra.
Table Case IV. A. Chains of the earliest period. — B. Gold
ornaments from the time of the earliest kings and the Ancient Em-
pire : four bracelets from the tomb of King Zer (1st Dyn.) at Abydos
(p. 243); gold objects (bull, gazelle), found at Nag' ed-Deir and
already showing a high degree of perfection in their workmanship.
— D. Gold pectoral, belt, and sandals, from a tomb of the 12th Dyn.
at Er-Rubayeh (Lower Egyptl. — E. *Head of a falcon, with inlaid
eyes, from Hierakonpolis (p. 337). — F. Metal-work of the Middle
Empire: chains; gold fiilcon; dagger with inscription of the Hyksos
period. — G-M. **Torab Furniture and Jewels of Queen Ahhotep
(p. ci), mother of King Amosis (conqueror of the Hyksos), which
date from the beginning of the New Empire and were found in
1860 with the mummy of the queen at Drah Abu'l Negga (p. 283).
O. 4030. Silver boat with crew; 4031. Necklace, with three large
flies. H. 4035. Axe, with handle of cedar-wood covered with gold-
leaf and inscribed with the cartouche of King Amosis, the blade
being of massive gold inlaid with paste; 4032, 4033. Other axes.
/. 4036. Gold chain with clasps in the form of heads of geese and
a gold scarabteus inlaid with blue paste as pendant; 4037. Rich
gold necklace formed of rows of knots, flowers, lions, antelopes, etc.,
with two falcon-heads at the ends. J. 4038. Gold pectoral inlaid
with gems (the gods Amon-Re and Re-Horus in a boat pour holy
water over King Amosis; on each side are falcons); 4039. Double-
hinged bracelet, with delicately engraved figures on blue enamel,
representing (twice) King Amosis kneeling with the earth-god Keb
behind him, and two falcon -headed and two dog-headed genii;
4046. Armlet with a hovering vulture in gold and gems. 4040.
Diadem with the cartouclie of King Amosis flanked by two sphinxes;
4041, 4044, 4045. Three bead-bracelets of the same king; 4042.
Wooden handle of a fan covered with gold-leaf, showing holes round
the rim for the insertion of ostrich-feathers; 4043. Mirror of the
queen. K. 4049. Gold boat, on a small wooden carriage with bronze
wheels, the crew in silver; 4050. Necklace; parts of necklace
Upper Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 91)
No. 4037 (see ji. 98). L. 4055. Dagger and sheath, both of gold;
tlie liilt is adorned with gold and semi-precious stones, while the
pommel is formed of four female heads; the junction of blade and
hilt is artistically covered with the head of a bull ; the centre of the
blade is inlaid with fine damascening of gold. 4056, 4057. Two
daggers of simpler style; 4052-4054. Gold armlets and anklets, —
M. 4060. Earrings inscribed with the name of Ramses XII. —
N. 4064, 4065. Two gold bracelets inlaid with cornelian and lapis
lazuli, from the mummy of Pinotem I. (^IstDyn.); 4062, 4063.
Pectorals in the form of a temple, from the mummy of Ramses III. —
O. 4070. Part of a gold pectoral, formed of necklaces with heads of
gods (20th Dyn,"). — P. Small gold ligures of gods; amulets; pen-
dants. — Q. Earrings. — It. Rings, several with scarabai.
Glass Case V. 4100-4104. Vessels of silver found in the ruins
of Mendcs and probably forming a part of the temple plate. — Glass
Case VJ. Ornaments from the mummy of the royal admiral Zenhcbu
(p. 166), from Sakkara: Mask, bands with inscriptions, sandal.s,
kneeling figure of the goddess Nut with outstretched wings, the
four tutelary deities of the deceased, gold finger and toe casings,
small figures of gods and amulets, a palm-tree, and the boat of the
god Soker, all of the finest workmanship. — Glass Case VII. A-}>.
Portions of mummy vestments, amulets, figures of gods, and bead
nets of the Late Egyptian period. /■,\f- F. Gold chain of the Roman
period; 4133. Gold ornamentation of a Persian swoid-belt. G-iY.
Bracelets, necklaces, rings, and other ornaments of the Roman and
Byzantine periods. 0-R. Articles belonging to the treasure-trove
of Tukh el-Karamu8 (see below). — Glass Case VJJI. i\lummy-
ornaments (gold mask, etc.). — Glass Case JX. Ornaments from
the mummy of the royal admiral Haryothes, and articles similar to
those in Case VI.
Glass Case X is devoted to the **Treasure of Ttkkh el-Kar&mAs,
dating from the beginning of the Ptolemaic period (ca. 300 B.C.).
**4172. Large armlet in the form of a snake, with inlaid eyes, and
on the head a large ruby; armlet, the clasp of which imitates a tied
knot, adorned witli gold wire; two small armlets, at the ends of
each of which are winged sphinxes in tlie Hellenistic style; t^\o
gold armlets or anklets, ending in the heads of fabulous animals
resembling deer. Egyptian figures of gods and a neck-oruamcnt
in pure Egyptian style, with falcons' heads. (Silver dishes and
bowls; *Front part of a griffin, with gilded beak and wings; head-
dress of a statue of a goti or a king, of beaten silver richly gilded ;
*Head of a king in bronze, inlaid with gold, etc.
Glass Case XI. *Gold Ornaments of Queen Teye (18th Dyn.)
and Queen Tewosret (19th Dyn.), found by Mt. Davis in 1907
and 1908 at I'.ib;'in el-Muluk. Diadem in the form of a vulture and
breast-chain of Queen Teye; crown of Queen Tewosret, consisting
of 15 blossoms; two large earrings with the name of King Siptah;
100 Route 4. CAIRO. 6. Egyptian Museum:
silver armlets with a representation of Queen Tewosret before
Sethos II. ; gold necklet of pierced gold beads.
Olass Case XII. *GoId Treasure of the 19tli Dynasty, found at
Zakazik (Bubastis). Two gold vases of Queen Tewosret, -with rings
for banging them up; *Silver vase witb a gold handle in the form
of a goat; silver bowl with beautiful ornamentation; lotus-shaped
gold bowl with the name of Queen Tewosret ; two. gold bracelets
with the name of Ramses II. ; necklaces, earrings, etc.
The Large North Hall (Salon Septentrional) is to accommodate
the coffins of the 20-30th Dynasties. — In front of the entrance
to Room L is a *Glass Case (A) containing small articles of especially
fine workmanship. Middle part of the case, at the top: Censer;
vases of coloured glass. N. side: 4221. Hippopotamus in a marsh;
4222. Recumbent hippopotamus; 4223-4229. Wooden statuettes;
*4227. Hairpin in the shape of a papyrus reed, upon which a man
stands (Middle Empire). W. side: Beautiful alabaster vase; bronze
figures of kings; 4238. Man holding a naos with a figure of Osiris;
*4240. Vessel in the form of a drinking horn, adorned with a cow's
bead ; 4242. Bronze statuette of a priest, bearing an image of Osiris ;
4244. KingKheops. S. side: 4246. Apis, in bronze; 4250. Small
head of a king in blue fayence;, 4251. Statuette of Ptah. E. side:
4253, 4254. Two ivory draughtsmen in the shape of lions' heads;
4256, 4257. Bronze statuettes of kings.
Galleries Q & R will contain the coffins and mummies of the
Grteco-Roman period, plaster masks of mummies, mummies with
portraits of the deceased painted on wood or linen, etc.
Gallery R (temporary arrangement). Case G. Bronze utensils
found at Bedrashein. — In the Frames by the Walls: Winding-
sheets of the mummies of the priests of Amon (p. 305), some of
very fine linen; two fans of papyrus reeds; stick with an ivory
knob. — Glass Case A (by the pillar near the entrance to Room V).
Fragment of a painteil floor from the palace of Amenophis III.,
uearMedinetHabu (p. 330). — Glass Case B. 4371. Ground-plan of
the tomb of Ramses IX. (p. 286), on a large piece of limestone.
Room S (temporary arrangement) contains the objects of foreign
origin found in Egypt.
Room T. Figures of gods and sacred animals. — Case A. Cats.
— CaseB. Amon, Toeris, Mut, Bastet; 4416. The goddess Nekh-
beyetin the form of a vulture, in silver; 4429. Nefertem. — Case C.
Small figures in fayence of the deities Nefertem, Toeris, Amon,
Mut, Khons, Min, and Khnum. — Case D. The gods of Memphis,
Ptah, Sekhmet, and Apis; the lion-headed Buto. In the desk-case:
Steles of Apis; 4495. Relief with the funeral chariot of Apis. —
Case E. Figures in fayence: ibis-headed Thout; Thout in the form
of a cynocephalus; Sekhmet; so-called Patfekes (guardian-deities in
the form of sick children with large heads and crooked legs). —
Case F. Imhotep, Neith ; Thout, ibises, and cynocephali; Khons;
Upper Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 101
4602. Orion ; 4623. Maat. In the desk-case : Fayence figures of Thout
in the form of an ibis and a cynocephalus; amulets in the form of
stalks of papyrus. — Case O. Fayence figures: Bes, Anubis, Show;
4578. Isis with the infant Horus, carrying the sacred bark of Osiris
on her head. — Case U. Anubis, Besj 4600, 4601. Hapi, the god
of the Nile; god with a snakes head; 4607. Unuris; 4610. Cow-
headed Hathor; Hathor in the form of a cow. In the desk -case:
Figures and heads of Bes in fayence; sistra and handles of sistra
(with the head of Hathor in fayence). — Case I. Sacred lish and
ichneumons; 4656. End of a sceptre with an ichneumon praying;
coffins of snakes. — In the doorway to the outer passage: 4750, 4751.
Two large protective tablets, with Horus upon the crocodiles.
In the middle of the room : Four large bronze ligures of the lion-
headed Buto; falcon-headed Horus. — In the Glass Case: Leaden
headgear for ligures of gods. — 4666-4668. Osiris.
Case K. Osiris; portions of figures of Osiris. — Case L. Osiris;
the four sons of Osiris. — Case M. Osiris ; 4680. Osiris coming to
life again. In the desk-case: Amulets; the backbone of Osiris;
crowns. — Case N. Figures in fayence and stone of Isis, of Isis
suckling Horus, and of Nephthys; group of Horus, Isis, and Neph-
thys. — Case O. Isis; Isis suckling Horus; 4690. Collar with the
head of Isis. In the desk-case: Portions of figures of Isis; sacred
crocodiles. — Case P. Fayence figures of Horus and his sacred
falcons; Harpocrates; 4713. Seth. — Case Q. Horus with the head
of a falcon; falcons; Harpocrates; 4726. Horus in the form of a
crocodile with the head of a falcon. In the desk-case: Ivory wands
with fantastic representations (amulets'); protective tablets (Horus
upon the crocodiles ). — Case R. Small bronze buckets: censers;
ends of si-.eptres; 4740. Sacred boat with a shrine and figures of
gods, borne on a pole at processioTis ; thrones of gods.
Manuscripts, Papyri, etc.
Room U. Papyri (copies of the 'Book of the Dead' and the 'Book
of him who is in the Underworld', see p. 102, Room W); drawings
on thin pieces of limestone (in the desk-case on the right: battle-
scenes, wrestlers, foreigners) and models for sculptors. Uncom-
pleted statues. — Cases A-F. Models for sculptors.
Room V. Writing materials and ostraka. As papyrus was expen-
sive, less important writings were committed to wooden tablets
(4865, 4866), potsherds ('ostraka': 4867, 4868), or thin pieces of
limestone, like No. 4869 (Case E), from the tomb of Sennutem
(p. 318), which contains the beginning of the 'Adventures of Si-
nuhet', an Egyptian romance. — Gla^s Case A. Writing and paint-
ing utensils; palettes; dishes for mixing colours; pen-case of reed
formed like a lily at the top; pigments. — Glass Case B. Writing
tablets ami ostraka. — Glass Cases D-H. Ostraka. — (}lass Case C.
102 Route 4. CAIRO. 6. Egyptian Museum:
Clay moulds for amulets aud usbebti figures; limestone moulds for
birds, probably for purposes of magic. — By the walls: Papyri.
Above Glass Case F: 4875. Part of a large mythical-geographical
treatise on the Faiyiim, Lake Mceris, and its crocodile deity Sobek.
Room W. MSS. on papyrus or linen. The papyri of the dead
chiefly consist of extracts either from the 'Book of the Dead', a col-
lection of texts referring to the life after death, or from the 'Book
of him who is in the Underworld' (p. 284); they are generally
adorned with pictures. The finest are: In the middle of the room
(divisions 21 <fe 22 in the desk-case). Fragments of the Book of the
Dead ofTu'e; on the other side (^divisions 34 & 35), 4888. The
Book of the Dead of Queen Kemare (21st Dyn.); by the left back-
wall of the room, 4884. Funerary papyrus of a singer of Amon.
Gallery X (temporary arrangement). Cases C ^- E. SaTidals,
baskets, and boxes made of papyrus reeds. — Case O. 4912. Wooden
door from the tomb of Sennutem (p. 318), with beautiful paintings,
e.g. Sennutem and his sister in an arbour playing draughts. — In
tlie middle . Case M. 4920. Side of a sacred slirine dedicated by
Queen Hatshepsut (see p. 103). — Cases H <^- J. Armchairs; folding-
chairs; stools. — Case J. 4940. Water-clock of alabaster. — Cases
F iS' G. Baskets and wicker boxes. — 4952. Fine bronze lion with
the name of King Apries, used as a padlock in a temple. — 4953,
4954. Fragments from the temple of Ramses III. at Tell el-Yehii-
dtyeh (p. ITl), with fayence ornaments. — Case T). Stamped bricks.
— Cases C-E. IJshebti iigures, steles, etc. — Tlie S. part of the
gallery contains vessels of various periods, of clay, fayence, bronze,
and stone. — Case C. Coloured imitation vases of wood, which
were buried with the dead Instead of the real ones.
Room Y. Architectural fragments, utensils, etc. — Case A. Mo-
dels of pillars, capitals, chapels, and temple gates. 5101. Wooden
model of a pylon. Rosettes and coloured reliefs of fayence, with
representations of foreign captives (negroes, Asiatics, Libyans),
mostly from the palace of Ramses III. at Tell el-Yehiidiyeh (p. 171)
and from Medinet Habu (p. 322); 5116. Figure of Amenophis I. in
the act of sacrificing, in green fayence, from Karnak. — Case B.
Inlays of fayence and glass; stone-mason's square, plumb, and in-
strument for measuring the battering of a wall, from the tomb of
Sennutem (p. 318); wooden fastenings with the name of Sethos 1.,
from Abydos. — Between B and G : 5155. Picture of a captive
negro from the pavement of the palace of Amenophis III., near
Medinet Habu (p. 330 ). — Case C. Foundation deposits from various
temples, including fayence tiles inscribed with the name of the
royal builder. Especially interesting are the deposits found at the
temple of Deir el-Bahri (p. 299), including imitations of tools, axes,
adzes, chisels, awls, alabaster vases, tip-sleds, and so on. — CaseD.
Bronze mountings from doors and furniture; tools; foundation de-
posits (No. 5195 from a building of Apries). — Case E. Bronze
Upper Floor. CAIRO. 4. Route. 103
door-inountings; locks in the form of lions; inlays of glass and
fayence from coffins of the Grsco-Roniau period. Razors. — Case F.
Wooden boxes and stools ; 5225. Wing of a door from a sacred shrine,
dedicated at Deir el-Bahri to Ainon by Queen Uatshepsut (whose
name has been replaced by that of Thutiuosls II.). Parts of a chain,
of fayence, with small tablets bearing the name of Psammetichos 1.
Objects in glass of the Grseco-Roman period. — *Ca3e G. Articles
of the toilet, chiefly dating from the New Empire: Mirrors and
mirror-handles; cosmetic-pots; perfume-spoon.s and salve-boxes;
5291. Cosmetic-pot in the form of a kneeling man bearing a jar on
his shoulder; salve-box in the form of a woman swimming, holding
a goose in front of her. — Case H. Mirrors; combs; salve-boxes
( No. 5320 of wood, in the form of a recumbent calf), — Case I.
Articles of the toilet; salve-boxes; cosmetic-pots; 5335. Mirror-
handle in the form of the god Bes; 5330. Pincushion in the shape
of a tortoise. In the central desk-case: Castanets; in the desk-
cases at the side: Fayence rings. — Case J. Musical instruments:
lyres, harps, flutes, bronze drum in the form of a cask with skins
stretched over its ends [18th Dyn.) ; draught-boards and draughts-
men; figures of women, forming the harem of the dead; children's
toys, dolls, and balls. In the desk-cases : Scarabffii; in the central
one: Scaraba:ii which were made to commemorate important events,
like medals (No. 5401 commemorating the lion-hunt of Amen-
ophis III.). — Case K. Weapons: sticks, axes, bronze axe-heads,
arrow-heads, a lance, throw-sticks, clubs, and heads of clubs. In
the desk-case: Scarabaei. — Between Cases K and L: Sledge lor
transporting the coffin, from the tomb of Ramses V. at Thebes. —
Case L. Weapons. In the desk-case: Scaraban ; cylindrical stone
seals used for sealing in the early period. — Case M. Implements
for agriculture and for weaving; two jars with stands. In the
desk-case: Scarabaei. — Case N. Chariots and stone weights; frag-
ments of yard-sticks; 5510. Alabaster vessel bearing the name of
Thutniosis III., and inscribed as 27 hin (1 hin = */5 pint); 5512.
Weight in the form of a calf's head with the name of Sethos I. and
a statement of the weight as 300 teben (1 teben = 31/5 oz.). In
the desk-case: Scarabsei and impressions of seals in clay.
Room Z. Grreco-Roman statuettes and articles of domestic use.
— Case A, Mummy -labels with Greek and demotic inscriptions.
Tablets coated with wax, used by school-children. — CaseB. Bronze
tigures ; 5553. Fine bronze vase. — Case C. Terracotta figures from
Alexandria, resembling the Tanagra figurines. — Case D. Greek
vases of various periods; portions of boxes with representations of
figures in ivory or inlaid with ivory. — Case E. Grfeco-Egyptian
terracottas. — C'a.sc /•'. Lamps. — Ca.se H. Glass vessels. — Case 1.
Grasco- Egyptian terracottas. — Case J. Vessels in fayence; two
dogs, one in fayence, the other in painted terracotta, votive tablet
of fayence; 6B53, 5664. Two triangular coffin-ends with painted
104 Route 5. DEIR MART MTNA. Environs
ami gilded reliefs in stucco , representing sirens (parts of coffin
No. 4278). — Case K. Bronze lamps and candelabra; sheet of lead
with representations in relief, from a coffin. — Case L. Mummy-
labels and writing-tablets; 5677. Parchment document relating to
a sale of land by a king of the Blemmyes (p. 386).
In the middle of the room : Glass Case M. Greek panel-por-
traits of mummies. — Glass Cases N-P. Coloured mummy -masks.
In the Doorway between Gallery X and Room A'. Case A.
Vases of alabaster and hard stone. — Case B. Terracotta vessels,
some of them in the shape of animals or grotesque human figures.
Room A' (temporary arrangement). Coptic utensils, articles of
clothing, ornaments (in CaseE, arrow-shaped hairpins, chains,
armlets, anklets), children's toys (Case D), church utensils (crosses;
keys ; ivory comb with a relief, in Case F), wood-carvings (Case G),
pottery (Case L), bronze candelabra and lamps (Case M), censers
nd bottles (Case N), bron/.c bowls and buckets (Case 0).
5. Environs of Cairo.
1. The Island of Koda and Old Cairo.
Electric Tramways CNns. 1 and 15), see pp. 38, 39. — With a visit to Old
Cairo may be combined tbat to tbe Tombs of the Mamelukes. returninS
via tbe Bdb el-Kardfeh (see p. 115) and tbe Place Saladin (p. 68). Those
who wish to visit only tbe Kasr esh-Sham'a (p. 106) m;iy take the Helwan
Kaihvay as far as the station of St. Georges (p. 167).
Through the quarter of Ismailiyeh to the Kasr el -' Aini {PI. A,T)j
see pp. 52, 53. — Thence the ShdrV Fumm el-KhaUg goes on to the
M7ddn Fwnm el-Khalig, where the city canal El-Khnllg (now filled
in) formerly diverged from the Bahr el-KliaUg, or small arm of the
Nile separating the island of Roda from the E. bank.
To the S. of the Shari' Sadd el-Barrani, which begins at the Midan
Famm el-Khalig, are situated tbe Christian Cemeteries^ surrounded by
lofty walls and presenting no attractions. The first is tbe English and
Protest^ant Cemetery. — At the junction of the Shari' Sadd el-Barrani and
the Shari' ed-Deyura stands a SebU with two domes, about 100 yds. to tbe
E. of which lies the Deir Mari Hina, or convent of St. Menas (p. 28),
a brick-walled enclosure containing an ancient church.
Beyond the Midan Fumm el-Khalig rises the Head of the Old
Aqueduct (p. 116), constructed of solid masonry in a hexagonal
form, with three stories. — The road to Old Cairo, here called Shari'
MasT el-Kadimeh, skirts the Nile and goes on to El-Ma'adi (p. 167)
and Helwan (p. 167). A road, diverging to the right via the bridge
El-Malek es-Sdleh , traverses the island of Roda and crosses the
Nile to Gizeh by the 'Abbas II. Bridge (p. 123). — To the left
diverges the Shari' Gami' 'Amr, leading across the Helwan railway
to the Deir Abu Sefein and the Mosque of Amr (p. 109).
of Cairr.. ISLAND OF RODA. 5. Route. 105
The Coptic convent of Deir Abu Sefein is named alter the largest,
tliough not the oldest, church within its precincts. The convent has a
diameter of 050 ft. and includes three (|iarily restored) churches (El-'Adra
Anha ShenOcla, and Abu Se/ein) and a nunnery (Deir el-Iiandt). The entrance
is by the small gate at the S.W. angle, near the railway-line. — Among the
mounds of debris to tlie K. and S. of (Ud Cairo are several smaller Coptic
convents iDeir DablOn, Deir Todrus, Abu Kir ica Yuhanna., etc.), which,
however, are of interest to specialists only. All have both male and female
inmates. The Deir Bablun preserves the name of ancient Babylon (p. 44).
The Shari' Masr cl-Kadimeh continues to follow the direction
of the arm of the Nile. Opposite the Haret ed-Dabweh (PL at
p. 106) is the ferry crossing to the Island of Boda (Geziret Roda).
We descend the slope, enter the ferry-boat (1 pias. for one person,
there and back ; payment made on returning), and ascend the oppo-
site path. A guide is usually easily found to conduct travellers
through the intricate lanes to the garden at the S. extremity of tbe
island, belonging to the heirs of Hasan Pasha.
At the S. end of the garden is a Nilomkter (Mikyus), con-
structed in 716 A.D. by order of the Omaiyade caliph Suleiman.
It consists of a square well, 16 ft. in diameter, having in the centre
an octagonal column, on ■which are inscribed the ancient Arabian
measures. The dira', or old Arabian ell, is 54 centimetres, or about
211/4 inches long, and is divided into 24 kirat. The Cuflc inscrip-
tions on the central column and on marble slabs built into the
walls refer to restorations of the nilometer in the 9th cent., under
the Abbaside caliphs Ma'mun and Mutawakkil. Numerous later
restorations have taken place , the last in 1893. The office of
measuring the water is entrusted to a sheikh.
The zero point of the nilometer (according to llahmud-Bey) is 28 ft.
above the average level of the Mediterranean, so that the top of the
column is nearly 5'J ft. above sea-level. The water of the Nile, when at
its lowest, covers 7 ells of the nilometer, and when it reaches a height
of 15 ells and 16 kirat, the sheikh of the Nile measurement proclaims the
IVefa (comp. p. xcviil, i.e. the height of the water necessary for irrigating
every part (jf the Nile valley. The announcement of the wcfa was formerly
the signal for cutting the embankments of the irrigation-canals, and noisy
popular merry-makings still take place (about the middle of August) at
the Midan Fumm el-Khalig (p. 104). The rate of taxation was determined
in ancient times in accordance witli the height of the inundation (comp.
p. 357), and even to this day there is a certain connection between these
two facts (comp. p. Ixxii).
Adjoining the nilometer is a large Kiosque in the Turkish style
(no admission). — To tlie N. of a smaller round kiosque on the E.
quay-wall is a iiiodern nilometer, to which a flight of steps de-
scends. — The S. end of the island commands a fine view of the
Nile, with Gizeh to the right, the pyramids in the background, and
Old Cairo on the left, with its imposing quay.
in a garden near the N. end of the island (ca. 6 min. tu the S. of the
bridge El-Malek es-8aleh, p. 104) stands the wonder-working tree of the
saint J/onrfflro, a huge nebk-tree, hung with innumerable little flags and
rags. According' to a popular su|ierstition the patient must thus offer to
thr- s.nint the cloth which enveloped the affected limb, pluck olf two leaves,
and tie them on the affected part with another c!oth.
106 Route
OLD CAIRO.
Environs
To the left of the Shari' Masr el-Kadimeh lie the bazaars of
the small town of Old Cairo (Masr el-Kadimeh; conip. p. 44) and
the Church Missicnarii Society Hospital (p. 40). From the terminus
of tramway No. 1 we follow the road along the river as far as Sahel
Attar en-^ebi, a harbour for goods, chiefly, like Rod el-Farag
(p. 78). for grain from Upper Egypt. The quay lias a frontage of
about 875 >ds. and a flight of about 40 steps leading down to the
river. A space of about 28,000 sq.yds. is occupied by the shuna
= 1 : 7.150
Old Cairo.
or warehouses, separated from one another by broad streets lined
with stalls for the use of the harbour merchants. The warehouses
and stalls are owned by the government. The quay is to be pro-
longed to Deir et-Tin, the city boundary, and Sahel Attar en-Nebi
will then become the chief harbour of Cairo. We turn to the left
from the quay into the Shari' es-Seghir (PI. A, B, 2), pass the police-
station, turn to the left again, and reach the rail, station alSt. Georges
(PL B, 2; p. 167). Beyond the railway lies the quarter of Kasr esh-
Sham'a (PI. C, 1, 2), almost exclusively inhabited by Copts. It
of Cairo. OLD CAIRO. 5. Route. 107
is built witliin the still partly preserved girdle-wall of the ancient
Roman citadel of Babylon (p. 44). — To tlie right of the railway, at
the S E. angle of the citadel, stands the Coptic church El-Mo'allaka
(PI. C, 2; 'resting upon columns'), the oldest in Babylon and re-
cently restored. Beyond a vestibule we enter a garden and a court,
whence a broad flight of steps ascends to the church. At the top
are an anteroom and an open court. We enter the double-aisled and
handsomely fitted up church through a colonnade. — Beyond the
angle, on the S. side of the citadel, is a massive Roman Gateway
with two projecting towers, in which fragments of early-Egyptian
masonry have been used (key from the porter of the Mo'allaka
church). — Just beyond the station the road leads past the Greek
Convent of St. George (Convent grec; Pl.O, l,^), the circular domed
church of which rests on the foundations of a Roman tower (a on
the Plan), to the Coptic church of —
*Abu Sergeh {St. Sergius; PI. C, 1, 2), enclosed by a dense mass
of houses. This church is believed to have been built before the
Mohammedan conquest, but this can be true of the crypt only. Ac-
cording to tradition the "Virgin and Child after their flight to Egypt
spent a month in this crypt. The church is now being restored.
This church, which has suffered at various times from alterations
and additions, now partly removed, may be regarded as the original
model of the older Egyptian-Byzantine churches in which the Coptic
Christians now worship i". The basilica consists of a nave and aisles,
+ Coptic 'Worship. On entering the church the members of the con-
gregation first pay their homage to a number of pictures of saints hanging
on the walls (the veneration of saints and of the Virgin being a prominent
feature of the Coptic system) and then kneel before the altar and kiss the
hand of the priest. They then take their stand (for there are no seats) in the
part of the church allotted to them, the feeble leaning on crutches which
they bring for the purpose, as the service often lasts for more than three
hours. The service begins with the reading or chanting of prayers and
passages from the Gospels, partly in the Coptic language and partly in
Arabic, in which the priest is assisted by a schoolmaster and a choir of
boys. During this performance the worshippers, with very few exceptions,
engage freely in conversation. After a time the burning of incense begins.
The priest, swinging his censer, leaves the beikal and joins the con-
gregation, each member of which he blesses, placing his hand on their
heads. — The Celebration of the Euchavist is very frequent in the Coptic
churches, immediately following the ordinary service. — On January 19th,
the anniversary of the Baptism of Christ ('id el-ghiids), men and boys
plunge into the large font or bath which is to be found in most Coptic
churches, the water having been first blessed by the priest. Or they per-
form the same ceremony in the Nile, into which they first pour some con-
secrated water. On the" eve of this festival, as well as at Epiphany, on
Maundy Thursday, and on the festival of the Apostles, the priest washe.s
the feet of the whole of his congregation. — On Palm Sunday wreaths of
palm are blessed by the priest, which are then worn by the Copts under
their tarbilshes during the whole of the following year as amulets against
every misfortune that can befall body or soul. — An external form to
which the Copts attach great weight is the observance of fasts, and a Copt
who is negligent in this respect will rarely be met with. On these oc-
casions all kinds of animal food, not excepting fat, eggs, butter, and
cheese, are prohibited. — Comp. Butler's 'Coptic Churches of Egypt' (1884).
Ba«obkeb"3 Egypt. 7th Edit. 8
108 Route 5.
OLD CAIRO.
Environs
the latter provided with galleries. The nave and choir, which is
raised, have open ceilings. The lofty side-walls of the nave consist
of two rows of columns, one above the other, the columns of the
lower row being separated by keel-arches, while the upper series,
supporting the gallery, consists of alternate groups of two marble
columns and one pillar of masonry. The columns of marble origi-
nally belonged to ancient edifices, and have been placed here without
a. Entrance from the street, b, c. Vestibule, d. Basin for ablutions,
e. Passage, f. Baptistery, g. Men's section, h. Seat for the chief priest.
i. Pulpit, k. Choir. 1. Sanctuary (Heikal), with the altar, m, n. Siiie-
chapels. o. Well. p. Keadinj;-desk. q, r. Entrances to the crypt, s. Old
vestibule or narthex, with the ancient water-basin. — The original walls
are shown in black, the later ones are shaded.
the least regard to their suitability in point of diameter or archi-
tectural features. Two of the three original entrances on the W. side
are now built up; they all led into the narthex, or old vestibule,
which had apses at both ends (S. apse now wanting). This narthex
contains an ancient water-basin (PI. s), in which the priest still
washes the feet of the men at the Feast of Epiphany.
The nave, which has a pointed wooden ceiling, is diArided by
wooden screens into three sections. The first (PI. c, c) is the vesti-
bule and contains the basin (PI. d) for ablutions ; the second (PI. e)
is used as a passage and is adjoined ontheN. by the baptistery (PI. f);
and the third (PI. g) is the section for the men, though it is com-
monly used by women also, who retire to the galleries only when
of Cairo. . OLD CAIRO. 5. Route. 109
the church is crowded. Beyond the nave, and raised by a few steps,
is the choir (PI. k) where the priests officiate, and which is adjoined
by the Heikal, or sanctuary (PI. 1), containing the altar, and by two
side-chapels, that on the left (PI. m) snrmounted by an Arabian
dome. In the apse of the sanctuary rise several steps, in amphi-
theatrical fashion, towards the place which in European churches
is occupied by the episcopal throne, aTid in the present case by a
picture of Christ. The sanctuary and the side-chapels are shut off
by wooden screens, panelled and richly adorned with carvings in
wood and ivory. The finest and oldest of these are on the screen
to the left of the sanctuary; besides ornamental designs they have
representations of the Nativity, St. Demetrius, St. George (Miiri
Oirgis), St. Theodore (?), and the Eucharist. Above the door to the
right side-chapel (PI. n), engraved in wood, is the Coptic inscription,
'Greetings to the Temple of God, the Father 1' Below it is an Arabic
inscription with the date 1195. The church contains also some
interesting Byzantine carving and mosaics in ivory, now blackened
and discoloured with age. A number of old pictures of saints, some
of them on a gold ground and with well-preserved colours, possess
no artistic value. The guide expects a fee of 1 pias. from each
visitor, who places also 1 pias. in the collection-plate.
Steps (PI. q, r ) descend to the Crypt (often flooded), a small
vaulted chapel with marble columns under the choir, consisting of
nave and aisles. At the end of the nave is an altar in the form of
an early-Christian tomb-niche, which tradition indicates as the spot
where the Virgin and Child reposed; in the centre of the aisles are
apses. The right aisle contains the font, into which, according to
the Coptic ritual, the child to be baptized is dipped three times.
The citadel contains several other basilicas, used by Coptic and
Jewish congregations, but interesting only to those who are making
a special study of this kind of architecture. Among them we may
mention the churches of St. Barbara (^Sitteh Burbdra ; PI. C, 2:
restored), containing good carvings and paintings, Mdri Girgis
(St. George), and El-'Adra (PI. C, 1). The Jews say that Elijali
once appeared in the modern Synagogue (Esh-Shamydn or Ken^-iet
Elidhu), and show a place in it where Moses is said to have prayed.
About 20 yds. to the right of Abu Sergeh we enter a pictur-
esque lane on tlie left, which leads to a low-lying iron-bound door
^Entree on the Plan, p. 106). Thence a road leads to the N., past
the rubbish heaps of the ancient Fustdt (p. 44), and after ca. 1/2 ^^^
reaches the white and red striped W. facade of the externally in-
significant mosque of Amr(comp. PI. C, 1), which has three entrances.
Visitors usually enter by the S. (r.) entrance, below the minaret.
A
The G&mi' 'Amr ibn el-' As, or Mosque of Amr, owes its name
to the general of the Caliph Omar, though not a trace now remains
of the original mosque, which was only i)0 ells long and 30 ells
8*
110 Route 5. OLD CAIRO. . Environs
broad. Indeed there is scarcely a building in Egypt that has so
frequently been destroyed by water, fire, and eartliquake, and that
has been so regularly rebuilt.
The interior exhibits the usual plan of a court surrounded by
colonnades, and in spite of its imperfect state (the N. and S.
colonnades are represented by the column-bases only) its mere size
produces a certain effect. The columns, all of marble of various
kinds, were once 366 in number. Their heterogeneous nature is
accounted for by the fact that they were brought from Roman and
Byzantine buildings in Cairo.
The facades of the Court (Sahn) have no pretensions to an-
tiquity ; the arches are of an unusually clumsy shape. In the centre
of the court, which is now planted with trees, is a hanefiyeh ; the
deep well is popularly believed to have a connection witli a well
in Mecca. The South-F.astern Ltwdn is the sanctuary. In front
of the pulpit, within an iron railing, is a column of grey marble,
on which, by a freak of nature, the names of Allah, Mohammed,
and Sultan Suleiman in Arabic characters, and the outline of the
prophet's 'kurbatsh' appear in veins of a lighter colour. This
column is believed by the Moslems to have been transported mi-
raculously from Mecca to Cairo by the Caliph Omar. In the N.E.
corner is the tomb of Sheikh Abdallah, son of Amr. In the N.W.
corner is a recess with two low columns ; the blood-stains on the
top are caused by patients in search of health, who here rub their
tongues until they bleed. In the W. colonnade, which consists of
a single row of columns only, is a Pair of Columns^ placed very close
together, and it is said that none but honest men could squeeze
themselves between them.
This mosque is almost disused. On the last Friday in the month of
fasting, however, a solemn service is annually held here, in which the
Khedive and his grandees take part. On the remaining Fridays throughout
the year a handful of poor Moslems, mostly of the working classes, assemble
for worship in the venerable but poorly preserved sanctuary. — In 1808
this mosque witnessed a very remarkable scene. The whole of the Mo-
hammedan priesthood, the Christian clergy of every sect, and the Jewish
rabbis, with one accord, assembled in the mosque of Amr to pray for the
rise of the Nile, which had delayed beyond the usual period.
Near the Mosque of Amr are several Kulla Manufactories, in
which the process of making the porous water-jars (Arabic Kulla,
pi. Kulal) used throughout Egypt may be seen. The chief seat of
manufacture is, however, Keneh (p. 222). The material is a light-
grey clay; the remarkably delicate porosity of the vessels is pro-
duced by mixing the clay with ashes. The rapid evaporation caused
by the porosity of the kulla cools the liquid within to a tempera-
ture of 12-14° Fahr. lower than that of the surrounding air. — To
the convent of Deir Abu Sefein, see pp. 104, 105.
A visit to the Tombs of the Mamelukes (p. 115) may be con-
veniently made from this point. Continuing to follow the road
across the rubbish-hills of Fustat, we observe on our right a Mos-
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of Cairo. TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS. 5. Route. Ill
lem burial-ground and at a sliort distance In front of us the old
aqueduct (p. 116). A little to the right, on an eminence, rises an
old ruined mosque (Gami Ahu Su'ild), beyond it is the Citadel
with the mosque of Mohammed Ali , and farther distant are the
Mokattam Hills with the mosque of Giyushi (^p. 116). This view is
very striking towards sunset. The road, which becomes bad farther
on, leads round the ruined mosque and ascends heaps of debris.
On the top of the hill it divides. The branch to the left leads back
to the town. The road, first in a straight direction, afterwards in-
clining to the right, leads to the mosque of Imam Shafl'i (p. 115).
2. The Tombs of tlie Caliphs and the Mamelukes.
Tickets of Admitsion, see p. 43; Carriages, see p. 39; Donkeys, comp. ]). 39.
The genera) effect is most striking towards sunset. The enjoyment of the
scenery is, however, greatly impaired by the dustiness of the roads.
The mediaeval Arab mausolea of Egyptian rulers, which, under
the names Tombs of the Caliphs and Tombs of the Mamelukes^ stretch
along the entire E. side of the city, were erected mainly by the
Circassian Mameluke sultans. The name 'Tombs of the Caliphs',
applied to the northernmost group, is historically a misnomer, for
the tombs have no connection with the Abbaside caliphs then re-
sident in Egypt and treated as mere titled puppets. These mosque-
tombs were once each provided with a numerous staff of sheikhs
and attendants. The revenues of the mosques having been con-
fiscated at the beginning of the 19th century, the tombs gradually
fell to ruin. Now, however, the Committee mentioned at p. 43 has
taken them into its keeping.
The usual route to the *Tombs of the Caliphs (Arab. Turab
el-Khnlafa or Turab Kail Bey) leaves the city via the Muski (p. 53)
and its prolongations. It then traverses the mounds of potsherds
known as the Windmill Hills (p. 114) and reaches the still-used
cemetery (Karafet el-Afifi). By the roadside lie large mausolea
(Arab, Hosh), with courts and rooms occupied during certain festi-
vals by the relatives of the deceased. We first reach the tomb-
mosque of Kait Bey, to the N. of which is that of Barkuk. Hence
we return to the city by one of the routes described below.
Those who wish to combine a visit to the Citadel (p. 68) with
that to the Tombs of the Caliphs should select the route from the
Bab el-Attaba (PI. F, 5) to the Kait Bey Mosque (comp. p. 114).
It is, however, more convenient to begin with the N, group of
tombs. In this case we quit Cairo by the Bab en-Na^r (PI. E, 2;
p. 77) and pass the Mohammedan cemetery. To the right are the
Windmill IliUs (p. 114). Beyond the unimportant tomb of -SAciM
Galdl we have one of the finest *Views of the city of the dead.
The N.E. group of the mausolea, which is hardly worth visiting,
consists of the Tomb of an Fmir of Sultan El-GUuri (p. 59), a cube
112 Route 5. TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS.
Environs
surmounted by a stilted dome, and the tomb-mosques of Sultan
Inal, with a handsome minaret, and Emtr KeMr, son of Bars Bey
(p. 113). — Straight on is the —
*Tomb Mosque and Convent of Sultan Barkfik, reported to have
been planned by the architect Sherkis el-Haranbuli. The N. dome
■was completed in 1400-5 by Barkuk's two sons, Farag (p. cxviii)
and 'Abd el-'Azh, the S. dome and the convent (Khankah) in
1410 by Farag. The
mosque has lately
been restored. —
The ground-plan is
square (each side
240 ft.) and resem-
bles that of the
medresehs. The li-
wans, however, are
not covered with
barrel-vaulting but
are protected against
sun and shower by
colonnades with
spherical domes.
The present en-
trance (PL 1) is in
an out -building at
the S.W. angle. It
leads to a domed
vestibule, whence a
corridor (PI. 2) runs
to the fine Sahn el-
Gami' or large inner
quadrangle, in the
middle of which, be-
neath two tamarisk-
trees, is the old
hanefiyeh (PI. 3), or
fountain for ablu-
tions. To the right
(E.) is the exqui-
sitely proportioned main liwan or sanctuary (PI. 6), with three aisles,
simple prayer-niches (PI. 4), and a beautiful stone *Minbar or pulpit
(PI. 5) presented by Kait Bey, To the left (N.) of the sanctuary is
the mausoleum (PI. 7), with the cenotaphs of Barkiik and of his
sons 'Abd el-'Aziz and Farag. To the right (S.) are the tombs of
the female members of the family (PI. 8). The beautifully pro-
portioned dome is a masterpiece of Arabian architecture. The
column at the head of Barkuk's cenotaph is said to indicate the
of Cairo. TOMBS OF THE CALIFHS. 5. Eoule. 113
stature of the deceased. The W. liwan (PI. 9), opposite the sanctu-
ary, had three aisles also, hut the arcade next the court has collapsed.
The two side-liwaus (PI. 10 & 11) have one aisle only. Behind that
to the N. are cells for dervishes, students, and pilgrims, and a hall
(PI. 12 ; now very dilapidated), which forms an out-huilding to the
mosque and connects the khankah with the small mausoleum of Bar-
kuk's father, Sharaf ed-Dln Anas, who died in 1382. To the W. of
this hall was the old chief entrance (PI. 14), adjoined by a sebil with
a medreseh or school (PI. 15). Behind the S. liwan is a court of
ablution (PI. 13), with a water-basin (meida). — One of the two
Minarett was restored in 1900. Both had originally three stories.
To the W. (right) of this tomb-mosque, within a walled court,
is the Tomb of Suleiman, a contemporary of the sultan of that name
(first half of the 16th cent.). This contains interesting sculpture
in the dome and inscriptions in blue fayence, now partly destroyed.
To the E. of this tomb (and to the S. of Barkuk's mosque) is another
handsome dome-covered tomb ('MausoMe de Ganem Bey'). On the
right of the road leading from the mosque of Barkuk to the S.W. to
the tomb of KaVt Bey (see below) is the Ma'bed er-Rifd'iyeh, a large
depressed dome of the Turkish period.
Opposite, to the E. (left), is the Tomb Mosque (Hosh) of Bars Bey
(p. cxix), completed in 1432. It includes a mausoleum and the
ruins of a convent. Within the enclosing walls are the tombs of
some relatives of Bars Bey. The liwan contains good mosaics. The
dome of the mausoleum is interesting. The remains of a sebil also
are extant. — Farther on, to the right, is the Tomb of the Mother
of Bars Bey. a small dome with pentagonal and hexagonal openings.
In the same street, a few hundred paces farther to the S., we
observe on the right the RaV or House of Kail Bey, 260 ft. long,
completed in 1473, but now in ruins. The fagade is plain but the
gateway is very tasteful. A little farther to the S., in an angle,
is a Wafer Trough (PI. 15, p. 114), now in ruins, with its once
beautiful rear wall protected by a roof. The rab', the trough, and
the mosque (see below) all belonged to the burial-place (Hosh) of
Kait Bey, which covered an area 330 yds. long. Its exact limits
cannot now be determined, and a number of modern buildings have
been erected within them.
The *Tomb Mosque of K&it Bey [pp. 73, cxix), built in 1463
and restored in 1898, is the finest edifice among the Tombs of the
Caliphs. It is distinguished by its beautiful dome, its slender
minaret (130 ft. high), its harmonious proportions, and its hand-
some ornamentation, in which stalactites are profusely used. In
the interior we notice the beautiful marble mosaic, the tasteful ceil-
ings, the pulpit, and the lattice windows of stucco (partly modern).
Within the mausoleum (PI. 8, p. 114) are shown a finely carved
desk and two stones, wliich are said to have been brought from
Mecca by Kait Bey and to bear impressions of the feet of the prophet
114
Route 5.
TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS.
Environs
To the S.E. of the mosque of Kait Bey the Shari' el-Afifl leads to
the Tomb Mosque of the Khedive Taufik (p. cxxiii).
We may now return to the city either through the Bab el-Attaba
(p, 115) or via the Windmill Hills and the Muski. To the right
of the latter route is a point ('Point de vue' on the Plan) command-
ing a beautiful *Retrospect of the tombs.
lA ?.a
First Floor.
Tomb Mosquk of Kii'i Bei.
— 1. Principal Entrance.
2. Vestibule with throne.
3. Sebil. 4. Sahn el-Gami'.
5. Sanctuary with prayer-
recess and pulpit. 6. Liwan.
7. Side-liwans. 8. Domed
room with cenotaph of Kait
Bey. 9. Hall with tombs of
Kait Bey's four wives. 10.
Library. 11. Uncovered court.
12. Hilweh (chamber) for the <
Imam. 13 (first floor), Knttab (elementary school). 15. Water- trough.
16. Staircase to the minaret. W*, M^, M^. Minaret in the three stories.
The so-called *Wiiidmill Hills | afford one of the best views in
the environs of Cairo. A fine effect, especially by evening-light, is
produced by the domes and the peculiar colouring of the valley
and the Mokattam. To the W. are the city, the plain of the Nile,
and the Pyramids ; to the N. lies the straggling suburb of 'Abbasi-
yeh ; to the N.E., in the distance, is the new suburb of Heliopolis
and at our feet are the Tombs of the Caliphs.
of Cairo. TOMBS OF THE MAMELUKES. 5. Route. 115
Tlie return-route leading to the S. from the Tombs passes the
cemetery of Kardfet BcLb el-Wezir to the gate oi Bdh el-Attdba (Bdh
el-Atabeg; PL F, 5), which marks the end of the city of the dead on
the S. side, towards the citadel. Just to the E. is a fountain (sehil)
hewn in the rock by Emir Shekhuh in 1349. As soon as we have
passed the gate we find ourselves once more in the midst of the
animated life of the city.
Shoet Walks in the Desert. Those who enjoy the silence and pure
air of the desert may proceed from the Tombs of the Caliphs (or from
'Abbasiyeh, p. 7S) into one of the small lateral valleys to the S. of the
Gebel el-Ahmar (see below). A small round hill of red sandstone in this
vicinity, known by the Germans as 'Rennebaum's Volcano", commands a
superb panorama of the Arabian desert, the suburb of 'Abbasiyeh, Helio-
polis Oasis, and the extremity of the Delta. — We may return to the S. via
the Oebel OiyHthi (p. 116) or to the N. via the Gebel el-Ahmar, or Ked
Mountain, rising to the E. of 'Abbasiyeh. The mountain consists of a
very hard conglomerate of sand, pebbles, and fragments of fossil wood,
coloured red or yellowish brown by oxide of iron. Centuries ago the
quarries here yielded material for statues as they now do for excellent
and durable mill-stones and road-material.
The Tombs of the Mamelukes, to the S. of the Citadel, includ-
ing monuments of various periods, are most conveniently visited via
the Bab el-Kardfeh (PI. E, 7; p. 68). The tombs, both old and
new, approach close to the city and extend as far as to the slopes
of the Mokattam. The older tombs are in much poorer preservation
than the Tombs of the Caliphs, owing to their conversion into
modern burial-places. Some are now represented only by their
minarets. A few are of architectural and artistic interest. The
extant inscriptions upon them are almost exclusively verses of the
Koran. To the left, halfway up the Mokattam, is the Convent of the
Bektash.i(f.70).
Outside the Bab el-Karafeh we turn to the right , short of the
railway, and follow the Shari' el- Kadiriyeh and the Shari' Imam
Shafi'i towards the conspicuous blue-grey dome of the Tomb Mosque
of Im&m Sh&fi'i, the founder of one of the four orthodox schools of
El-Islam (p. Ixxxvi). The mausoleum, erected in 1211 by Malika
Shemseh, the mother of the Aiyubide sultan Kamil, is a great place
of pilgrimage and consequently inaccessible to unbelievers.
Near the mosque of Imam Shafi'i, in a lane passing beneatli
vine-trellises, is the Hdsh el-B&sba, or family burial mosque, built
by Mohammed Ali. The monuments (including those of Ibrahim
and 'Abbas I. ; p. cxxii) are in white marble and were executed
by Greek and Armenian sculptors. The inscriptions and ornament-
ation are richly gilded and painted. — About V2 M. to the W. of
the mosque of Imam Shafi'i lie the sulphur-baths of 'Ain ea-Sira,
frequented by the Egyptians (train in 14 min. from the Bab el-Liik,
p. 35, on Frid. and holidays only^. Thence to the mosque of Amr
and Old Cairo, see pp. Ill, 110.
116 Route 5. MOKATTAM. Environs
From the Bab el-Karafeh the Aqueduct (Arab. El-Kan&tir), built
by Sultan El-Gh<iri and formerly ascribed to Saladiu, runs in a wide
sweep towards the Nile (see p. 104). It supplied the citadel with
water before the construction of the new water-works.
3. The Mokattam Hills.
An excursion to the Mokattam Hills is best made from the citadel (tram
ways Nos. 2, 6, and 13, to the Place Saladin, see p. 38). The route from
the" Tombs of the Caliphs is to be avoided on account of the intolerable
dust. The excursion may be combined with the visit to the smaller Petrified
Forest in the manner indicated at p. 119. The View is one of the most
beautiful that Egypt has to offer, and no energetic traveller should be
.satisfied wdth the substitutes afforded by the citadel (near the mosque of
Mohammed Ali, see p. 69j or the Windmill Hills (p. 114). It is best at
sunset or in the morning between 8 and 9 o'clock. A visit at the time of
the full moon is attractive also.
From the Citadel (p. 68) the route ascends in au almost straight
direction, passing through the Bab el-Gebel (PI. F, 6; p. 70) and
over the railway-bridge. About ^2 It. brings us to the top.
The Mokattam or Moqattam Hills (666 ft. high), to the E. of
Cairo, also called Gebel GiyHshi, after the conspicuous mosque situat-
ed on the summit, belong to the great range of nummulitic lime-
stone mountains which extend from N.W. Africa, across Egypt and
India, to China. This nummulite formation is one of the eocene, or
oldest deposits of the tertiary period. It yields a favourite building-
stone, and there are numerous quarries on the slopes of the hills.
Nummulitic limestone is remarkably rich in fossils, the chief mass of
which consists of millions of nummulites or rhizopods of the polythala-
mia group. The larger kinds are about an inch and a half in diameter
and the smaller about Vs inch. They are frequently seen also in the
stones of the Pyramids, part of the material for which was taken from
the quarries of the Mokattam. The quarries yield also a profusion of sea-
urchins (clypeaster, cidaris, echinolampas, etc.), various kinds of bivalves
(including many oysters), cerithium, ovula, strombus, nerita, turritella,
nautilus, sharks, teeth, and bones of the halicore. Beautiful crystals of
isinglass-stone and of strontian also occur.
The **ViBw from the top is magnificent and in a good light is
finer than any other in tlie neighbourhood of Cairo. The citadel,
the mosque of Mohammed Ali, and the grand burial-grounds of the
desert form a noble foreground ; the venerable Nile dotted with its
lateen sails flows below us in its quiet majesty; to the W., on the
borders of the immeasurable desert, tower the huge and wondrous
old Pyramids, gilded and reddened by the setting sun. The thousand
minarets of the city and the citadel are then also tinted with a
delicate rosy hue. A still more varied view is commanded by a
steep projection to the S. of the mosque, the foreground being
especially picturesque, while the horizon to the S. seems more open
and tempts our fancy to visit the wonders of Upper Egypt.
The Giyfishi Mosque, one of the oldest in Cairo, was built in
1085, during the Fatimite period, by the Emir Badr el-Gamali, the
grand vizier of Sultan El-Mustansir. According to tradition he
of Cairo. MOKATTAM. 5. Route. 117
chose this high-lying situation that he might still, even after death,
he ahle to see the mausolea of his seven favourite wives In the
valley helow.
The entrance to the mosque lieS on the K.W. side in the lower part
of the minaret, which is built in the earlier style of architecture. It
leads to an open court adjoined by the vaulted prayer-room which is
decorated in the Byzantine-Persian taste. To the left of it is the tomb
of the founder.
Below the mosque are the Rocky Caves of Coptic monks, with Coptic
and Arabic inscriptions. Some of them may be reached by a steep path.
At the N. end of the plateau is an old Turkish Fort, whence a
hridge descends to the citadel. On the N.E. and higher part of the
Mokattam, separated from the citadel hy a large quarry, is a memor-
ial stone, to the right, adjoining the summit, erected in 1874 hy
the British party of scientific men who observed the transit of Venus
from this point. The projecting rock in front of this commands
the most extensive panorama in the neighhourhood of Cairo,
and should certainly he visited if time permit. The S. end of
these hills is skirted by the road to the smaller Petrified Forest,
vrhich may be reached from this point in about 1 hr. (see p. 119).
On the steep slope of the Mokattam, to the S. of the Giyushi
Mosque, lies the so-called Castle of the Mamelukes or mosque of El-
Khalawati, built in 1533. The ruinous interior may be entered from
below. A steep path, practicable for expert climbers only, ascends
hence through the above-mentioned Coptic caves to the plateau.
The route back to the town skirts the citadel on the S. and
leads via tlie Bab el-Kardfeh and the Place Saladin (p. 68).
4. Spring of Moses and the Petrified Forest.
The geologist will certainly find it profitable to visit the Petrified
Forest (comp. p. Ixix), but for other travellers its chief interest lies in
the fact that they here obtain their first glimpse of the E. desert. The
latter may therefore ccjnfent themselves with an excursion to the Little
Petrified Forest, the outskirts of which may be reached in l'/2-2 hrs. The
expedition may be made in half-a-day on donkey-back (p. 39). Carriages
require extra horses and even then sometimes stick in the sand. — The
deviation to the so-called Spring of Moses adds rather less than an hour
to the expedition, and if the donkey-boy knows the route a guide may be
dispensed with. A visit to the Great Petrified Forest can hardly be ac-
complished without the aid of a well-informod guide.
Starting at the Bab en-Nasr (p. 77), or from the point where
the route to the Tombs of the Caliphs leaves the Muski (p. Ill),
we ride by the Tombs of the Caliplis, pass between the Mokattam
(p. 116) and the 'Red Mountain' (p. 115), and ascend a desert
valley, into wliich the E. spurs of the Mokattam descend. Farther
on an isolated hill of red and black sandstone resembling the 'Red
Mountain' is visible in the desert on our left. W cross a water-
course (usually dry) , where tlie paths separae That to the
right (S.E.) leads to the Spring of Moses and te. l.,ittle Petrified
Forest (p. 118), wliile tliat to the left (E.) is th the te to the Great
Petrified Forest and the Bir el-Fahm (p. 119). e rou
118 Route 5. PETRIFIED FOKEST. Environs
Abont 100 paces to the right, at the foot of the mountain-slope behind
the tombs of the Caliphs, which we ascend on this side past some large
lime-kilns, we may trace the high-water level of the sea in the pliocene
age, 235 ft. above the present sea-level, on a rocky face of the nnmmulife
plateau, thickly dotted over with holes made by boring shells.
Following the path to the right, we observe a yellowish hill at
the foot of the spurs of the Mokattam and reach it in 1/4 hr. more.
This hill stands at the mouth of the narrow, winding valley, 3/4 M.
in length , through which the path to the Spring of Moses ascends
over large blocks of stone and rubble. The ravine terminates in a
lofty amphitheatre of rock. Here is a cleft in the rock from which
trickle a few drops of bitter and brackish water, quite arbitrarily
named the Spring of Moses ('Ain Miiaa).
In order to reach the smaller Petrified Poorest we return to the
mouth of the gorge and proceed towards the S.E., skirting the
slopes of the Mokattam, which are here more precipitous. "We first
pass a black projecting rock, which has a glazed appearance, and
then a square gap in the rock, beyond which we observe opposite
to us gently sloping hills, consisting of limestone, marl, and beds
of fossil oysters. The route ascends between these hills and soon
reaches the plateau of the Gebel el-Ehashab, where the scattered
fragments of fossil wood indicate the beginning of the Little Petri-
fied Forest. These trunks and fragments have been referred by
Unger to an extinct tree, which he named the Nicolia ^gypliaca
and regarded as akin to the bombaceae. The petrifaction is now
generally supposed to have occurred during the later tertiary period
under the action of silicious geysers, resembling those to be seen to-
day in the Yellowstone Park of North America. The silicated trunks
lie in a secondary stratum, the overlying strata in which they were
originally embedded having disappeared in the course of the desert
denudation.
Crossing the plateau of the Petrified Forest for abont 20 min. more
towards the S., we suddenly reach the S. slopes of the Mokattam, through
a gap in which a path descends into the Wddi et-Tih, or 'valley of wan-
derings' (more correctly Wddi Digla). This valley stretches to the W.
towards the valley of the Nile, and begins at the hills of Gharabun, like
the parallel Wadi Hof fp. 170), which" debouches to the N. of Helwan.
On the S. horizon rise the hills of Tura (p. 170), recognizable by the old
Mameluke fortress on their right spur and by two heights exactly opposite
to us, of which that to the left somewhat resembles a coffin in shape while
that to the right is hemispherical. Crossing the bottom of the valley in
this direction (S.), we perceive in the Tura hills the entrance to a desert
gorge, bounded by lofty and precipitous slopes. This valley extends for
many miles in various windings, communicates with the ravines of the
desert which begin in the Gebel Hof near Helwan, and is abundantly
stocked with the plants peculiar to the desert.
We may return to Cairo from the Little Petrified Forest through
the Wadi et-Tih (see above), skirting the S. and W. slopes of the
Mokattam and passing the Jewish cemetery and the tombs of the
Mamelukes. Another return-route leads across the Mokattam hills
If we choose the latter we quit the Petrified Forest by a hollow to th
W., and ascend over ridges to a plateau, stretching towards the W
of Cairo. NEW HELIOPOLIS. 5. Route. 119
and bounded on either hand by hills. We hold somewhat to the right
and soon reach a road, which finally passes through a rocky ravine
near tlie Giyuslii eminence, the view from which (p. 116) forms an
admirable close to the day's excursion. Thence to the city, see p. 116.
The following Shoktek Wat may be recommended. We ride as
described at pp. 117, 118 direct to the Little Petrified Forest and then
return to the Spring ol' Sloses. Hence we ascend to the W. to the plateau
of the Mokattam and ride across it toward the W. to the Giyushi mosque
(p. 116). From the mosque we descend to the citadel.
A visit to the Great Petrified Forest near Bir el-Fahm (4 hrs.
to the E. of Cairo and 2V2 hrs. beyond the Little Petrified Forest) takes
a whole day, and is fatiguing, especially as the traveller has the sun in
his face both in going and returning. The route mentioned on p. 117 is
not recommended for the outward journey, as the point for which we
are bound, not being conspicuous, is liable to be missed. It is better to
leave Cairo by the Bdb el-Kai-afeh (P1.E,7; p. 68), pass the Tombs of the
Mamelukes fp. 115) and the goods-railway to Helwan, and, leaving the village
of El-Basatin on the right, ascend to the left by the Jewish Cemetery. After
reaching the lop of the hill we follow the Wddi et-Tih (p. 118) toward.s
the K. for I1/4-IV2 br. more. Above the gradual slopes of the desert,
about P/i M. to the left, we then perceive several reddish hills and
another of yellowish colour in front. Kiding towards the latter we reach
on its E. slopes the debris of the Bir el-Fahm ('coal welT) and remains
of some walls, dating from the period (1840) when an unsuccessful search
for coal was made here. The hills of the desert to the N., N.W., and
W. of the Bir el-Fahm form the Great Petrified Forest, and are thickly
strewn with trunks and fragments of fossil timber. These are generally
brown and black, with a polished appearance, and frequently contain chal-
cedony. A sand-hill , '/j hr. to the N. of Bir el-Fahm, to the base of
which the petrified forest extends, afifords a good survey of the district.
To the K.W. are the Mokattam, the 'Red Mountain', 'Abbasiyeh, and the
plain of the Nile.
5. New Heliopolis (Heliopolis Oasis).
The most convenient route to the new suburb of Heliopolis Oasis is by
electric expre.'is railway or tramway (see p. .39). Carriage, see p. 39. —
The excursions to Old and New Heliopolis may be combined by taking
(on the return from the former) the electric tramway from the railway
station of Palais de Koubbeh (p. 120) to Heliopolis Oasis.
New Heliopolis (hotels, see p. 36), or Heliopolis Oasis, known
also to the Arabs as -Uasrei-Cj'edrde/i ('New Cairo'), is a modern suburb
founded by a Belgian company in 190G, in the desert to the N.E.
of 'Abbasiyeh and near the now English barracks. It occupies a
healthy situation ami is intended to become a residential suburb for
British officers and officials and a health-resort for tlie inhabitants
of Cairo generally. It is laid out on an ambitious scale, with broad,
tree-planted streets and squares, with hotels, pleasure-resorts (Luna
Park, adm. 2 pias.), a racecourse, a stadium, where stows of all
kinds are held, and the grounds of tlie Sporting Club (p. 42).
6. Old Heliopolis.
This expedition i.'f best made by Carriage (p. 39; drive to the obelisk
I'/i hr.), though it may be accomplished also by Bailtcay to Matariyeh,
starting from the Pont Limun Station (PI. B, 1; p. 35). Trains run half-
hourly and take 17-23 min. for the journey (day return-tickets d'/a or 3 pias.).
120 Route 5. OLD HELIOPOLIS. Environs
Donkey from the station of Matariyeh to the Virgin's Tree and the Obe-
lisk and back, 4 pias. — To New Heliopolis, see p. 119.
The High Road leads through 'Abbdstyeh (p. 78) and crosses
the railway to El-Marg, near Pont de Koubbeh. About halfway to
Matariyeh we skirt the garden of the Khedivial Palace, the winter-
residence of the Khedive (no admission). The plain between
Kubbeh and Matariyeh has been the scene of two important battles.
In 1517 the Battle of Heliopolis made Selim and the Turks masters
of Egypt; and on March 20th, 1800, General KleTier with 10,000
French troops succeeded in defeating 60,000 Orientals, and in con-
sequence of this victory regained possession of Cairo, although for a
short time only. We then reach the village of Matariyeh (see below).
The Railway passes the following stations : i-^/^ M. Demir-
d(Uh (DemerdacheJ, station for 'Ahb'tslyeh (p. 78) ; 21/2 M. Manchiet
es-Sadr; 3 M. Pont de Koubbeh ( Kubri Kubbeh); 31/2 M. Koubbeh-
les-Bains (Hammdmdt Kubbeh); 41/4 M. Palais de Koubbeh (/Serut
Kubbeh; khedivial palace, see above; electric tramway to Helio-
polis Oasis, p. 119) ; 5 M. 'Ezbet ez-ZeitUn (Gr.-H6t. Zeitun, at the
station), with numerous villas and a School for the Blind (adm.,
see p. 42); 51/2 M, Helmlyeh. — 6V4 M. Matdrhjeh, station for Old
Heliopolis. Beyond the station (to the W.) is a road leading direct
to the (I/2 M.) Virgin's Tree.
The railway goes on, via 'Fin esh-Shems (Ein-el-Chams) , 'Ezbet en-
NakhUh, El-Marg (p. 121), Khdnkah (p. 121), and Abu Za'tal, with basalt-
quarries, to (22'/2 M. from Cairo) Skibin el-Kandtir (p. 170).
Matariyeh (Or. -Hot. Matarieli) is an insigniflcant village, note-
worthy only for its proximity to Heliopolis and for its possession
of the Virgin's Tree, an ancient sycamore, under which, according
to the legend, the Virgin and Child once rested during the Flight
into Egypt. The sycamore, planted after 1672, was seriously in-
jured in 1906, but a shoot still flourishes and is now protected by
a railing. The garden in which it grows is watered by means of
a double sakiyeh, supplied from a shallow reservoir fed by springs.
This water is drinkable, while that of all the other springs, which
percolates through the ground from the Nile, is usually brackish ;
and this peculiar quality is popularly ascribed to the fact that the
spring was called into being by the Child Jesus. Adjoining the
garden is the Roman Catholic chapel of Notre~Dame de Matarieh.
From the garden the Shdri' el-Misalla (Chareh el Massalla) leads
in 12-15 minutes to the obelisk and ruins of the famous ancient
Heliopolis (p. cxlv), or city of the sun , called On by the Egyp-
tians. The latter name frequently occurs in the Bible. Thus, in
Genesis (xli. 45), we are informed that Pharaoh gave Joseph 'to
wifeAsenath, the daughter of Poti-pherah (Egypt, Pete-pre, 'he
whom the sun-god Re has given'), priest of On'.
On-Beliopolis was one of the most ancient Egyptian cities and was
the chief town of a separate province included in Lower Egypt. The
deities of the place were the falcon-heailed Re-Harakhte (the sun-god,
of Cairo. OLD HELTOPOLTS. 5. Route. 121
whence the Greek name lleliopolis) anil the hnman-headed Atum, to
whom the sacred Mnevis Bull was consecrated. To these was dedicated the
famous temple, 'the House of Re', built on the site of an earlier edifice
hy Amenenthit /., first king of the 12th Dyn., in front of which his son
and successor Sesottris I. erected two great obelisks (see below) in
celebration of an important anniversary. A large section of the Egyp-
tian religions literature was due to the priests of Heliopolis, and their
doctrines were widely disseminated throughout the country at a very
early period, so that Ke-Harakhte was one of the most highly venerated
deities in Egypt. — Even during the Greek period these priests enjoyed
a high reputation for wisdom ; Herodotus conversed with them and Plato
is said to have spent thirteen years with them, in order to learn some
at least of their doctrines. — Under the New Empire the temple of
Ueliopolis was the largest and most richly endowed in all Egypt, next to
the temple of Amon at Thebes. — When Strabo (b. about 60 B.C.) visited
Kgypt the city had been destroyed, but the temple was still intact, ex-
cept for some minor injuries attributed to Cambyses; even the houses of
the prie.'^ts and the apartments of Plato and his friend Eudoxus were
shown to the traveller. The priestly school, however, had ceased to exist,
and only a few officiating priests and guides for foreigners resided there.
The outer walls, rising in all directions from the fields, are
now the only vestiges of the city, while of the temple nothing is
leftljut a few scanty ruins and a solitary Olelhk (Aral). El-Misalla).
Tlie latter is of red granite of Syene (_Assuan, p. 354) and is 66 ft.
high. It is surrounded by a wooden fence and rises picturesquely
amid mulberry-trees. Each of the four sides bears the same inscrip-
tion in bold hieroglyphics, recording that Sesostris I. (Senwosret),
King of Upper and l>ower Egypt, lord of the diadems and son of the
sun, whom the (divine) spirits of On (Heliopolis) love, etc., founded
the obelisk on the first festival of Set (a kind of jubilee celebration).
The pyramid ium at the top and the falcons wbich begin the inscrip-
tions on each side were once covered with metal. The companion
obelisk (for these monuments were always erected in pairs) stood
down to the 12th century.
To the W. of the obelisk the remains of the temple may be recog-
nized in a few blocks of granite, bearing inscriptions by Ramses 11. On
one Ramses II. appears offering a libation to Atnm. — The Necropolis of
Heliopolis lies about 3 M. to the E. of the obelisk.
The excursion may be extended to the villages of El-Marg or El-
Mevg (21/2 M.), with some ruins of the 18th Dyn., and Khdnkdh, on the
outskirts of the desert (7'/2 M. from ilatariyeh), both stations on the rail-
way from Cairo to Shibin el-Kanatir (see p. 120). The palm-groves at El-
Marg afford pleasant walks.
1. Barrage du Nil.
The Branch Railway to thkBauraoe is traversed by ten trains daily
from Cairo (I6V2M., in 30-35 min.; fare 6or4pias., day return-tickets 81/2
or 572 pias.). The intermediate stations are Shubra and KalyOb (p. 34).
The best plan is to walk from the Barrage station and to return by the
small 'trolley', pushed by Arabs, which unites Barrage with the station of
Kl-Mandshi,' on the West Nile Railway {p. 32; 1-2 pers. 10, 3 pers. 13, 4
pers. 15 pias. per hr. ; from the station to the village of El-Manashi across
the river, or vice versa, 4 pias., each addit. pers 2 pias.). Opposite the
Barrage station is the Restaurant TewCkieh. — Blessrs. Cook & Son arrange
special excursions by steam-launch to the Barrage (see notice at the hotels).
Also steamers of the Compagnie dcs Bateaux-Omnibus (p. 39).
122 Route 5. BARRAGE DU NIL.
The object of the *Barrag'e du Nil, the largest structure of
the kind in the world after the Assuan Dam (p. 371 ), is to keep
the water-level in the Delta uniform in all seasons, so as to ob-
viate the necessity for the old irrigation machinery, with its great
expenditure of labour, and to remove the difficulties of naviga-
tion during the three months when the Nile is at its lowest.
The work was begun under Mohammed Ali, about 1835. Linant
Bey proposed to alter the course of the river and to build a weir
farther to the N. , where the configuration of the ground appeared
more favourable; but his plan was judged too costly and was reject-
ed in favour of one proposed by a French engineer named Mougel
Bey. The cost of establishing foundations in the shifting soil of
the Delta, however, far exceeded the estimates; and, after all, the
erection was found to be too insecure for its intended purpose. For
nearly twenty years after 1867 the Barrage lay useless, as a costly
failure; but in 1885-90 Sir Colin Scott-Moncrieff sncces&fuUy com-
pleted it at a cost of 460,000^., so that now a depth of water of
about 12 ft. can be maintained in the W. branch of the Nile. In
consequence of a burst in the winter of 1909-10 considerable streng-
thening works became necessary, which are not yet quite finished.
Nearest the station are the Weirs on the Rayah et-Tauftld a.n A
on the E. (Damietta) Branch of the Nile. The latter weir is over
500 yds. in length and has 68 vertical iron sluices. From the
farther end a pretty avenue of lebbakh- trees leads across the
isthmus (about 1/2 M. wide) between the arms, in the middle of
which is the Rayah el-Menilfiyeh, constructed both for irrigation and
for communication with the district of MenHfiyeh (p. 33). The Weir
on thje W. (Rosetta) Branch of the Nile is about 480 yds. across and
has 58 vertical iron sluices. Farther to the W. is a fourth Weir, on
the Mahmild'iyeh Canal, constructed a few years ago. The navigation
of the river is carried on by means of spacious basins and lociis,
fitted with swing-bridges, at either end of the two weirs and also on
the Rayah el-Menufiyeh. The superstructures of the works are built
in an effective Norman castellated style. A junction-canal above the
weirs connects the two branches of the Nile, and is used to regulate
the depth of water in each. When the river is low the W. branch
receives all its water through this canal.
The island, formerly occupied by fortifications, is now covered
with attractive and extensive ^Gardens, laid out with flower-beds,
artificial rocks, etc., by Mr. Draper, an Englishman. — In the gar-
den is a Museum, with models of the various water-works of Egypt.
If not pressed for time the traveller should visit the little Arab
viUage of Shalakdn which stretches along the river near the Barrage
station. A charming and picturesque impression of Egyptian coun-
try-life is obtained here on market-days.
^^ Traces of ancient
Walls, ErnbanJcfjients,
<{• Tomb.-.; mosllr rov-
eretl \\'ith sand
Route daicraed, W'W^ A^M ' ^^P
in the Sandbook.
Modern Buihlinffs coloxtrt'J
Wack.
^*
IS
. Smat/ /'zi^^r'
I Third \ "°^'''''
ITYramid \
Vorfirar^-
^Temple
\>,_^
1 S. Pyramid
1 S o^rtc ^J/i-e/i
'i 1
Vnfinislietlfyramiw^f
i,M
Tani
ci]^
7b mi
(ara-iefren s
m7A. Cai^f.rns Cenieia^v '■
3 !a
Eiffel. Tower,
CaUiL>d.X?ologzie
*^® S'Petpr's,Roin.e
Second
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of KUeops XYsktA.
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Comparalive TabLe of He i girts
Gcogi-apK Tnstit .of
._/^'!i\-
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""-Jh
References:
a Khedivml Kiosqtie
h . X }>' Cornet- stone vft/ie
Great Pvrftrtu'd
c^astaia ol'yifer-be^fUOi
d. Small natural cleft in- the
rock through vhidt -rOritors
descend to the Second TyrajnH
e. Qwirrv n-irh hierofft ■
Itiscriptton above
f . HieroglJnscrip. on the vail,
ojid Hock Tombs
0 . Jtoc7.- Tomb Tr-ith palm - rdlmg
h. Tomb ot'Tebdme,Xih Vynas^
i. „ ^ Tsamlik
V. . - Werl.^eKew:SthDvnas^
1. Frramid oftheBaughtePor
JOteopstarrorduy to Hirodatv.^
m . Supposed JVortar.p its
n. 'Tomb of Sumhers'
o. Sanctuary of Isis
G r e a i
' K h e 0 p s > ■^'"'■"'if'
P vi'aiuid i
T o
dirrcren.t pe
b s I'
^\
ids
~'-s:r^
'iy^
\-^.\ ^\\ y ^ yulttvaied Land
123
6. The Pyramids of Gizeh.
The excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh recinires at least half-a-day.
Elbctbic Tbamwat from the 'Ataba el-Khadra to the (1 hr.) Mena House
Hotel, see No. 14 (p. 38); also, No. 15 as far as Gizeh Village only, see p. 39. —
By Caeriage the drive takes I-IV4 hr. each way (p. 39). Ctclists and Motor-
ists will find the road excellent. It should not be forgotten that the Ka-fr
en-Nil Bridge is open for 11 2 hr. daily for the passage of vessel.s (see p. '79),
when the somewhat longer routes via the 'Abbas II. Bridge (see below)
or the Bulak Bridge (p. 79) must be taken. — "Restaubant at the Mena
House Hotel. There is also a small restaurant at the terminus of the
electric tramway. Or the travellers may bring provisions with them from
their hotel (included in the pension-charge).
A fine and calm day should be selected for a visit to the Pyramids,
the driving sand in windy weather being very unpleasant. Suti Umbrellas
and Smoked Spectacles are advisable precantions against the glare of the sun.
Ladies who intend to ascend the pyramids should dress as they would for
mountain-climbing. A repetition of the excursion by moonlight produces
an ineffaceable impression.
Chief Attractions. Those who are pressed for time should devote their
attention to the ''Great Pyramid (p. 127; ascend to the summit and visit the
interior), the *~Sp/iinx (p. 135), and the 'Valley or Granite Temple of Khephren
(p. 135). The inspection of these chief objects of interest occupies about
2 hrs. The 'Circuit described at pp. 137-139 will occupy 11,2-2 hrs. more.
The tramway to the Pyramids (see ahove) traverses the quarter
oi Bdldk and the Buldk Bridge to the island of Oezireh (comp.
pp. 78, 79) which it crosses to the Pont Zamalek. From the W. end
of this bridge it runs to the S. along the small W. arm of the Nile
to the Pont des Anglais {p. 80), joining the Shdri' el-Gheh which it
follows past the Zoological Gardens (p. 80), to the N. end of Gizeh
(station, Otzeh Village, p. 80), the terminus of tramway No. 15
(p. 39). [The route via the island of Roda, which the tramway
follows when the Bulak Bridge is open (see p. 79), diverges to the
right from the line to Old Cairo, ahout 750 yds. to the S. of the
water-tower (p. 10-i), crosses the narrow branch of the Nile by the
Kl-Malek ef-Saleh Bridge, traverses the island of Roda, and crosses
the main arm of the Nile by the 'Abbai II. Bridge (595 yds. long;
open 10-11 a.m. and 3.30-4. 30p.m. for the passage of ships). It then
runs to the W. to Gizeh.] Thence the road to the Pyramids (Shdri'
el-Haram), which the tramway follows, crosses a canal and intersects
the Upper Egypt Railway (station; Gizeh railway station lies ca.
5 min. to the S., p. 143). After crossing a second canal it leads straight
towards the Pyramids, which are still nearly 5 M. distant. On the
left lie the huts of two fellahin villages, Et-Talibtyeh and Kom el-
Akhdar (tramway-station). The fields on each side are intersected by
canals. The huge angular forms of the Pyramids gradually become
more distinct, and soon stand out in clear outlines.
At the terminus of the tramway, on the edge of the desert, are
the extensive buildings of the Mena House Hotel (p. 36) ; opposite
are a police-office, a post-office, a drug-store, and other shops. The
road goes on in curves up the steep N. slope of the plateau on
which the Pyramids stand.
Basdbkek's Egypt. 7th Edit. • 9
124 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GlZEH. Situation.
At the tramway-terminus is a stand for donkeys and cameli (6 piss.
per hr.). The porters of the Mena House Hotel also will procure riding-
animals at a fixed tariff.
Tickets for the inspection of the Pyramids and other monuments are
sold in a small office beside the Khedivial Kiosque (PI. a), near the N.E.
angle of the Great Pyramid : for the ascent of the Great Pyramid 10 piaa. ;
for a visit to the interior of the Pyramid 10 pias. ; for a visit to the Valley
or Granite Temple 6 pias. For the entire expedition, including the ascent
of the Great Pyramid and the visit to its interior, the charge is 20 pias.
Guides (Beduins) are procured here through application to their sheikh.
Bakshish is entirely optional, though a gratuity of a few pias. is customary.
The inspection of the minor points of interest is free ; our plan and descrip-
tion render the assistance of a guide entirely superfluous. — No attention
should be paid to the begging of the Beduins, and visitors are advised
to have nothing to do with the vendors of so-called 'antiquities' (almost
invariably spurious). The fossil sea-urchins (Clypeaster jEgyptiacus) offered
here are said to be found in a miocene deposit, on a hill named by the
Arabs Gebel Shellul, on the edge of the desert, 2 M. to the S. of the
Sphinx. Other guides who press their services on the traveller should
be repelled, if necessary with the help of the police.
The **Pyramids of Glzeh form the second and most imposing
of the six groups of pyramids which stand on the margin of the
plateau of the Libyan desert. To the N. lies the group of Abu Roash
(p. 139); southwards follow the groups oiZdwiyet el-'Arydn (p. 140)
and Abustr (p. 141), Sakkdra (p. 145), and Dahihxlr (p. 166). The
Arab word for a pyramid is hdram (pi. ahrdm).
The Pyramids of Gizeh rank among the oldest monuments of
human industry, and their colossal proportions extort from us to-
day the same astonishment as was felt in antiquity by Greek
and Roman travellers. We marvel not only at the technical know-
ledge and ability of the Egyptians, but also at the might of their
kings, who must have had absolute control over thousands of
their subjects, to be able to rear such monuments. Some conception
of the enormous amount of labour involved may be obtained when
we learn that, according to Prof. Flinders Petrie's calculation, about
2,300,000 separate blocks of stone, averaging about 2y2 tons, were
required for the Pyramid of Kheops, and that some of them were
quarried on the E. bank of the Nile and had to be ferried across
the river and conveyed to the desert-plateau.
The Construction of the Pyramids has been admirably described
by Herodotus, the earliest writer on the subject, who visited Egypt
about 450 B.C.
Herodotus states (ii. 124, 125) that there were about 100,000 men employ-
ed annually for three months in constructing the Oreat Pyramid of Kheops i.
'They first made the road for the transport of the stones from the Nile to
the Libyan Mts. ; the length of the road amounts to five stadia (1017 yds.),
its breadth is ten fathoms (60 ft.), and its height, at the highest places,
is eight fathoms (48 ft.), and it is constructed entirely of smoothed stone
t According to Prof. Flinders Petrie, these three months fell during the
inundation, when field-work was at a stand-still and the services of 100,0(X)
men for transporting the stones could be easily enough obtained. The
stone-cutters and masons were probably engaged all the year round in
the quarries and on the pyramid itself.
Construction. PYRAMIDS OF gIzEH. 6. Route. 125
with figures engraved on it+. Ten years were thns consumed in making
this road and the subterranean chambers (for the coffins). The con-
struction of the Pyramid itself occupied twenty years. Each of the
four sides measures eight plethra (820 ft.), and the height is the same.
It is covered with smoothed stones, well jointed, none of which is less
than thirty feet long. This pyramid was first built in the form of a
flight of steps. After the workmen had completed the pyramid in this
form, they raised the other stones (used for the incrustation) by means
of machines, made of short beams, from the ground to the first tier of
steps; and after the stone was placed there it w;is raised to the second
tier by another machine; for there were as many machines as there were
tiers of steps; or perhaps there was but one machine, easily moved, that
was raised from one tier to the other, as it was required for lifting the
stones. The highest part of the pyramid was thus finished first (by
smoothing), the parts adjoining it were taken next, and the lowest part,
next to the ground, was completed last. It was recorded on the pyramid,
in Egyptian writing, how much was spent on radishes, onions, and roots
of garlic for distribntion among the workmen and, if I rightly remember
what the interpreter who read the writing told me ++, the money they
cost amounted to sixteen hundred talents of silver (upwards of 350,000i.).
If this was really the case, how much more must then have been spent
on the iron with which they worked, and on the food and clothing of
the workmen.'
In modern times many eager discuasions have been held as to
the mode in which the Pyramids were erected and the meaning of
the account given hy Herodotus. The most important questions
seem to be : (_1) How could Kheops, when he ascended the throne
and chose an area of 82,000 sq. yards for his monument, know
that his reign ■would be so unusually long as to enable him to com-
plete it? (2) If one of the builders of the great pyramids had died
in the second or third year of his reign, how could their sons or
successors, however willing to carry out the plan, have succeeded in
completing so gigantic a task and in erecting monuments for them-
selves at the same time? (3) And how comes it that many other
kings did not, like Kheops, boldly anticipate a reign of thirty years
and begin a work of the same kind, the design for which might so
easily have been drawn, and might so readily have been carried
out by his subjects? — To these questions Lepsius, Erbkam, and
Ebers answer. 'Each king', says Lepsius in his letters from Egypt,
'began to build his pyramid when he ascended the throne. He began
it on a small scale, in order that, if a short reign should be in store
for him, his tomb might be a complete one. As years rolled on,
however, he continued enlarging it by the addition of outer coatings
of stone, until he felt that liis career was drawing to a close. If
he died before the work was completed the last coating was then
finished, and the size of the monument was accordingly proportioned
to the length of the builder's reign. ' — This 'layer-theory' of the
t This causeway is still traceable. It terminated on the E. side of
the Pyramid of Kheops (see Plan and p. 138).
+t It is unlikely that the interpreters, who attended travellers like the
dragomans of the present day, were able to read hieroglyphics. They
probably repeated mere popular traditions regarding the pyramids and
other monuments, with embellishments and exaggerations of their own.
9*
126 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH, Construction.
construction of the Pyramids has been opposed by Flinders Petrie,
who has sought to show that the initial plan of each pyramid practi-
cally contemplated the full extent reached by the completed work.
But more recently Borchardt has demonstrated conclusively that
Lepsius's theory of the gradual growth of each pyramid is not incor-
rect, though it requires modification in some essential points. Ac-
cording to Borchardt, each pyramid builder began by planning a
monument of moderate size. In many instances this original small
conception was permanently adhered to ; but it not unfrequently
happened that kings who enjoyed long reigns or found themselves
in control of more extensive powers expanded their original designs
and enlarged their buildings , either by mere additions without
altering the passages or chambers (as in the step-pyramid at Sak-
kara) or by revising the whole original design, including the cham-
bers, etc., on a new and more extensive scale (as in the second
and third pyramids of Gizeh). Occasionally a second enlargement
took place, as in the case of the Great Pyramid.
The Pyramids were opened by sacrilegious robbers at a very early
period, probably under the 20th Dyn. , when also the tombs of the
Theban kings were plundered, or even earlier. Attempts were made
to force an entrance into the inner chambers, and passages were
laboriously cut through the solid masonry in order to reach the
expected treasures. In the course of this mining and tunnelling the
passages and chambers sustained much damage. Somewhere about
the period of the 25th or 26th Dyn. these injuries were repaired
and the pyramids restored. But they seem to have been again in-
vaded by the Persians ; and also at later periods, under the Romans
and under the Arabs , renewed attempts were made to penetrate
to the treasures supposed to lie in the interior.
The first modern traveller who carefully and successfully examined
the Pyramids was Nicholas Shaw in 1721 ; but he still entertained the
notion that the Sphinx had a subterranean connection with the Great
Pyramid. He was followed by Norden in 1737; Pococke in 1743, who
gives a plan and dimensions; Fourmont in 1755; Carsten Niebuhr in
1761; Davison in 1763; Bruce in 1768; Volney in 1783; Browne in 1792-98 ;
Denon, Coutelle, Jomard, and other savants of the French expedition
under Bonaparte in 1799-1801. Jomard in particular has the merit of
having taken very accurate measurements. Hamilton, in 1801, was a
dispassionate and critical observer. In 1817 Caviglia, a bold, but illiterate
and fanciful seaman, was fortunate in eliciting new facts regarding the
interior of the Great Pyramid, and excavated the Sphinx. In the same year
Belzoni thoroughly explored the interior of the Second Pyramid. Belzoni,
an intelligent explorer and accurate draughtsman, was originally a monk
at Rome, but when the French occupied that city he retired to London,
where he devoted himself to study in spite of many hardships. In 1815 he
reached Egypt, where, besides exploring the pyramid, he discovered the
tomb of Sethos I. at Thebes, etc. The next eminent explorer was Sir Gardner
Wilkinson in 1831. In 1837 and 1838 Col. Howard Vyse and Mr. Perring
made very thorough investigations and took careful measurements which
will always be considered authoritative. In 1842-45 Prof. Lep.sius, the
distinguished German Egyptologist, made several very important discov-
eries and furnished us with much valuable information. He found no
fewer than thirty pyramids which had been quite unknown to previous
Consli-uction.
PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH.
6. Route.
127
travellers. G. Maspero opened the small pyramids of Sakkara in 1880
and discovered important inscriptions. W. M. Flinders Petr'ie snbiected
the Pyramid.^ of Gizeh to a new and thorough investigation in 1881-82.
The Pyramids of Dahshur were examined in 1894-95 by De Jlorgan: those
of Lisht in 1895 by Gautier and Jdquier; and those of Abu Roash by the
Jnstitut Franfais in 1900-2. Excavations were carried on by German ex-
plorers at Abu Gnrab in 1898-1901. A renewed examination of the pyra-
mids and tombs of Sakkara was undertaken by the Egyptian Service det
Antiquit^s in 1900. The German Oriental Socieit/ (Deutsche Orienlgesellscha/I)
carried on excavations at Abusir iu 1902-8, while Germans and Americans
(and latterly also Austrians) have been exploring the Necropolis of Gizeh
.since 1903. The excavation of the Valley or Granite Temple of Eliephren
was accomplished by the German Von Sieylin expedition in 1909-10.
The pyramids of Gizeh stand upon a plateau ) which extends
about 1600 yds. from E. to W. and about 1300 yds. from N. to S.,
the E. and N. margins being precipitous at places. The pyramids
are built exactly facing the four cardinal points. The diagonal of the
largest pyramid from N.E. to S.W. is exactly in a line with the dia-
gonal of the second pyramid.
•'■A.N
:Hum™-„-^-
r\-
The ** Great Pyramid is called by the Egyptians 'Yekhet
Khufu\ or the •Glorious Place of Khufu\ and was built by Kheops,
the Khufu of the Egyptians (p. xcii). The outermost covering
has now disappeared, except lor insignificant fragments on the
base below the entrance. The length of each side (PI. A A) is now
128 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Qreat Pyramid.
74:6 ft., but was formerly (PI. B B) abont 756 ft. ; the present per-
pendicular height (PI. E C) is 450 ft., while originally (PI. E E),
including the nucleus of rock (PI. FF) at the bottom and the apex
(PI. CE), which has now disappeared, it is said to have been 481 ft.
The height of each sloping side (PL A C) is now 568 ft. and was for-
merly (PI. B E) 610ft. The angle at which the sides rise is 51° 60'.
The cubic content of the masonry, deducting the foundation of rock
in the interior, as well as the hollow chambers, was formerly no less
than 3,277,000 cubic yards and it still amounts to 3,057,000 cubic
yards. In round numbers, the stupendous structure covers an area
of nearly thirteen acres. The material of which it is constructed
is yellowish limestone quarried in the vicinity and containing
numerous fossUs, chiefly nummulites (p. 116). The outer covering
was formed of blocks of a finer white limestone, which was obtained
from the quarries at Tura (p. 170) and other parts of the Moka^tam.
Construction of the Great Pyramid. According to Borchardt's theory
this pyramid was not built on a single homogeneous plan (p. 126). It
was originally designed to contain only one sloping corridor hewn in the
rocky ground (ar) and leading through an antechamber (t) to the tomb-
chamber (t). But before this design was completely carried out it was
exchanged for a more comprehensive plan, involving the construction of
another chamber, now called the Queen's Chamber fjrj, reached by the cor-
ridor marked cef. But even this was not final, for Kheops undertook
another and greater extension, resulting in the construction of the Great
Hall (h) and the King's Chamber (*).
The Ascent of the Pyramid, though fatiguing, is perfectly safe.
The traveller selects two of the importunate Beduins (p. 124) and
proceeds to the N.E. corner of the pyramid where the ascent usually
begins. Assisted by the two Beduins, one holding each hand, and,
if desired, by a third (no extra payment) who pushes behind, the
traveller begins the ascent of the steps, which are each about 3 ft.
high. The strong and active attendants assist the traveller to mount
by pushing, pulling , and supporting him , and will scarcely allow
him a moment's rest until the top is reached. As, however, the un-
wonted exertion is fatiguing, the traveller should insist on resting
as often as he feels inclined. ' Vskut walla ma fish bakshish' (be quiet,
or you shall have no fee) is a sentence which may often be em-
ployed with advantage. All requests for bakshish should be refused,
and it is as well to keep an eye upon one's pockets. — The ascent
may be made in 10-15 min. but, in hot weather especially, the
traveller is recommended to take nearly double that time, in order
to avoid the discomfort of arriving breathless and heated at the
summit. The space at the top at present is about 12 yds. square,
80 that there is abundant room for a large party of visitors.
The **ViEW is remarkably interesting and striking. There is
perhaps no other prospect in the world in which life and death,
fertility and desolation, are seen in so close juxtaposition and in
such marked contrast. To the W., S., and N.W. extend yellowish
brown tracts of sand, interspersed with barren cliffs. The huge
Great Pyramid, PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. 6. Route. 129
and colourless mouuments erected here by the hand of man remind
the spectator, like the desert itself, of death and eternity. On
a bare plateau of rock stand the other pyramids, while the Sphinx
reposes majestically on the sand. The arrangement of the extensive
burial-ground with its various streets of tombs is plainly seen.
To the S., in the distance, rise the pyramids of Abusir, Sakkara,
and Dahshur. To the N. are the palm -groves of Kerdaseh and
the flelds of the valley of the Nile. Towards the E., on the other
hand, glitters the river, on each bank of which stretches a tract of
rich arable land, luxuriantly clothed with blue-green vegetation
and varying in breadth. The flelds are intersected in every direction
by canals, on the banks of which stately palms wave their flexible
fan-like leaves. lu the direction of Cairo runs the long straight
carriage-road. Immediately before us rises the Citadel with its
striking minarets, while the Mokattam hills, which form the chief
mass of colour in the landscape, gleam in the morning with a pale
golden tint and in the evening with a violet hue.
The descent of the Great Pyramid is hardly less fatiguing than
the ascent. Persons liable to giddiness may flnd it a little trying,
but the help of the Beduins removes all danger.
Intbrioe (comp. Plan, p. 127]. A visit to the interior of the
Great Pyramid is comparatively uninteresting to the ordinary tourist.
It will be found fatiguing, and an interval of rest between the ascent
and this expedition is recommended. Travellers who are in the
slightest degree predisposed to apoplectic or fainting flts and ladies
travelling alone should not attempt to penetrate into these stifling
recesses. The explorer has to crawl and clamber through low and
narrow passages, which, at places, especially near the entrance, are
not above 3'/2 ft- high and 4 ft. wide. The floor is often very slippery,
and the close air smells strongly of bats. The temperature of the
interior is nearly 79° Fahr. The attempts of the guides to goad the
visitor into inconvenient hurry should be disregarded.
The Entrance (PL a) is on the N. side (as in all pyramids), on
the thirteenth tier of stones, at a perpendicular height of 49 ft. from
the ground. The long passage a r, which is only 3 ft. 4 in. in width
and 3 ft. 11 in. in height, descends in a straight direction at an
angle of 26° 41', and is altogether 106'/>yd3. in length. "We follow
this passage as far as the point d only, 20 yds. from the entrance, the
end being filled up. Here diverges the ascending passage d e, the
lower end of which is filled with massive blocks of granite, placed in
position after the interment of the mummy to protect the grave from
robbers. The hardness of the material of which this barrier consists
compelled treasure -hunters (p. 126) to avoid it and to force a
new passage (PI, d) through the softer limestone. This is the roughest
and most awkward spot on the whole route. Beyond the granite
blocks we enter the passage (PL de), 41 yds. in length, with a very
slippery floor, beyond which lies the Great Hall (PL h).
130 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Great Pyramid.
Immediately in front of the entrance to the latter a formerly con-
cealed opening in the pavement gives access to the horizontal passage «/,
which terminates in the so-called Chamber of the Queen (PI. g). This
passage is at first 3 ft. 9 in. only in height, but at a distance of 6V2 yds.
from the chamber the paving has been removed so that the height increases
to 5 ft. 8 inches. The N. and S. sides of the chamber are each 17 ft. in
length, and the E. and W. sides 18 ft. 10 inches. The height is 20 ft. 4 in.,
including the pointed roof, which rises 51/2 ft. above the top of the walls
and consists of enormous blocks with their ends sunk into the surrounding
masonry.
The jointing and polish of the fine-grained Mokattam limestone
in the Great Hall (PI. K) form an unsurpassable marvel of skilful
masonry, of which the Arab historian 'Abdellatif accurately re-
marks, that neither a needle nor even a hair can be inserted into the
joints of the stones. The Great Hall is 28 ft. high and 155 ft. long.
The lower part is 3 ft. 4 in. in width; and the upper part, above
the stone ramps on each side, which are 1 ft. 8 in. thick and 2 ft.
high, is 68/4 ft. in width. The roof is formed of seven courses of
stone projecting one above the other and crowned by horizontal
slabs. The incisions on the walls were used to facilitate the intro-
duction of the sarcophagus. On the smooth floor are irregularly hewn
hollows, which now serve to prevent the visitor from slipping. At
the end of the Great Hall is a small horizontal passage, 22 ft. long
and 3 ft. 8 in. high, expanding about the middle into an Antecham-
ber (PI. i), which was once closed by four trap-doors of granite. The
remains of one of these slabs, in its pendent position, should be
noticed. We next enter the Tomb Chamber proper, commonly called
the King's Chamber (PI. fe). The N. and S. sides are each 17 ft. in
length, the E. and "W. sides 341/2 ft., and the height is 19 ft. ; the
floor of the chamber is 1391/2 ft. above the plateau on which the
Pyramid stands. The chamber is entirely lined with granite and
is roofed with nine enormous slabs of granite, each I81/2 ft. in
length, above which five chambers (I, m, n, 0, p) have been formed,
which may be reached from the Hall h by means of ladders.
In constructing these hollow chambers the over-cautious builders made
an error in their calculations , for as a matter of fact the uppermost
chamber by itself would have been sufficient to prevent the roof of the
King's Chamber being crushed by the superincumbent weight. The name
of Kheops was found in the two highest chambers (PI. 0, p).
The King's Chamber now contains nothing but an empty and
mutilated Sarcophagus of granite, bearing no trace of an inscription,
the lid of which had disappeared before the time of the French
expedition (p. 126). The sarcophagus is 772 ft- long, 3 ft. 3 in.
wide, and 3 ft. 4 in. high. The very massive sides ring with a clear
tone when struck. Curiously enough, the King's Chamber does not
lie exactly in a line with the diagonal of the Pyramid but is 16 ft.
4 in. to the S. of it.
The Air Shafts (PI. G, ii), the ends of which are seen about
3 ft. above the floor of the chamber, were perhaps constructed from
religions motives. They are about 6 in. in height and 8 in. in width
Second Pyramid. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. 6. Route. 131
only, expandin by a iw i. cLes at the outer extremities. The N.
shaft is 233 ft., and the S shaft 174 ft. long.
We now retrace our steps and, on emerging from these awe
inspiring recesses, hail the light and air with no little satisfaction.
The other chambers as yet discovered in the interior of the Great
Pyramid are inaccessible. The first passage a b r, which is blocked at b,
leads downwards in a straight line, 293 ft. in length, and terminates in a
horizontal corridor, 27ft. in length, 3ft. in height, and 2ft. in width,
which leads to the unfinished subterranean chamber s, hewn in the rock.
The E. and W. sides of this chamber are each 46 ft. in length, the N.
and S. sides 27 ft., and the height IOV2 ft. It does not lie in a line
with the diagonal of the Pyramid and its floor is 101 V2 ft. below the
level on which the Pyramid is built. The subterranean horizontal pass-
age t, 60 ft. long, ends in a cul-de-sac. The statement of Herodotus, that
the subterranean chamber planned by Kheops for the reception of his
body was surrounded by a canal conducted hither from the Nile, is er-
roneous, as the chamber lies above the highest level of the overflow of
the river, and it has, moreover, been ascertained that no channel from the
river ever led in this direction. — From the lower end of the Great Hall
a shaft, discovered by Davison in 1763, descends to the lower passage.
The enterprising Caviglia (p. 126) found that it terminated in the passage (r)
leading to the subterranean chamber (s). To all appearance it was bored
through the masonry after the latter had been finished.
To the E. of the Pyramid stood the Temple for the worship of
the deceased (p. clxixl, such as was erected in the case of every
pyramid. Nothing of this now exists, however, except some rem-
nants of the basaltic pavement. The neighbouring depressions known
as 'mortar-pits' (marked m on the Plan at p. 123) are natural clefts
in the rock, some of which have been lined with slabs of stone. —
On the E. side lie also Three Small Pyramids intended for relatives
of the king. The middle one of these (I on the Map) is said by
Herodotus to have been the tomb of a daughter of Kheops. That to
the S., according to an inscription in the Museum of Cairo, likewise
belonged to a daughter of Kheops, named Henwetsen. — At the E.
base of the small pyramid to the S, lies a small Sanctuary of Jsis
(0 on the Map), the 'mistress of the Pyramid', which was erected by
King Psusennes (21st Dyn.). It is in a very ruinous condition,
nothing remaining except a few stumps of columns.
The Second Pyramid, called by the Egyptians Wer-Khefre
('■Great is KhefrT). was erected by Khefre, who was called Khephren
by the Greeks (p. xcix). Owing to the greater height of the rocky
plateau on which it stands, it appears higher than its larger neigh-
bour. The perpendicular height of this Pyramid is now 4471/2 ft.
(originally 471 ft.), each side of the base measures 69O1/2 ft- (ori-
ginally 7073/4 ft.), and the height of each sloping side is 563^2 ft-
(originally 5721/2 ft.), while the sides rise at an angle of 52°20'.
The solid content of the masonry is now 2,156,960 cubic yds., equi-
valent to 4,883,000 tons in weight (originally 2,426,710 cub. yds.,
equivalent to 5,309,000 tons). As the rocky site rises towards the
AV. and N., a considerable part of it required to be removed in or-
der that a level surface might be obtained (see p, 187), while the
132 Boute 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Second Pyramid.
E. side of the plateau was artificially extended by a terrace-wall of
enormous blocks of stone. To the E. lies the Mortuary Temple, the
various chambers of which may be distinctly traced in spite of its
ruinous condition. Like all these pyramid temples it consisted of
two distinct principal portions, the public temple and the reserved
sanctuary. The main chamber of the public temple was a large open
court, surrounded by a passage like the cloisters of a mediaeval mon-
astery and embellished with colossal statues of the king. This
was the scene of the great funeral festivals. The causeway ascending
to it from the valley, the monumental entrance to which was formed
by the so-called 'Granite Temple' (p. 135) , is still traceable. To
theS., within the wall that surrounded this pyramid, stood another
small pyramid, now almost level with the ground, in which the
queen was buried. — The incrustation of the Second Pyramid, of
which a considerable part still remains at the top, consisted of
limestone slabs in the upper courses and of partially unpolished
granite slabs in the two lower (well preserved on the W. side).
The merit of having opened this pyramid belongs to Belzoni (p. 126).
An inscription over the entrance records that the opening took
place on March 2nd, 1818.
The plan of the Second Pyramid also appears to have been altered
in the course of building. The original intention seems to have been to
erect a small pyramid over the subterranean chamber. Afterwards a larger
pyramid was decided upon and the chamber moved towards the S., to
its present position.
The Interior is thus entered by two passages, both on the N. side.
The mouth of one of these, blocked up on the abafldonment of the first
Third Pyramid. PYRAMIDS OF gIzEH, 6. Route. 133
plan, is in the level surface in front of the Pyramid and was concealed
by the pavement (PI. d); that of the other, which still forms the entrance
to the pyramid, is on the N. side of the Pyramid itself, and is now 38 ft.,
bnt formerly 49 ft., above the level of the ground (PI. a). This Upper Passage,
which was lined with granite at the beginning, descends at an angle of
25° 55' for 105 ft. (PI. a b) and then leads as a horizontal corridor (PI. b g c)
to 'Belzoni's Chamber', which once contained the tomb of the deceased,
situated 3 ft. 10 in. to the R. of the diagonal of the Pyramid. This cham-
ber is hewn in the rock and roofed with painted slabs of limestone,
placed obliquely at the same angle as the sides of the pyramid. It is
221/2 ft. in height, 46V2 ft. in length from E. to W., and 16'/3 ft. in width
from N. to .'^. Belzoni here found a granite sarcophagus let into the
ground and filled with rubbish, 3 ft. in height, 6 ft. 7 in. in length,
and 31/2 ft. in width, and destitute of inscription. The lid was broken. —
The Lower Passage (PI. d) descends at first at an angle of 21° 40', reaches
a trap-door (PI. e1, runs in a horizontal direction for 59 ft. (PI. «/), and
then ascends, terminating, after a distance of 97 ft. in all (PI. g), in the
horizontal corridor leading to Belzoni's Chamber. This ascending passage
was perhaps made to permit the introduction of a broad trap-door of
granite and to permit of the transportation of the coffin from the old to
the new tomb-chamber. On the E. (left) side of the middle of the horizontal
portion of this lower passage was introduced a small recess, and on the
W. side is a steep passage, 22 ft. in length, descending to a chamber
(PI. h) hewn in the rock, 8 ft. 5 in. in height, 34 ft. 3 in. in length, and
10 ft. 4 in. in width. This chamber was originally designed to receive the
sarcophagus, but was never used.
The Third Pyramid, named by the Egyptians Neter- Menkewre
('Divine is Menkewre^), was erected by Menkewre, the Mykerinos of
Herodotus and the Mencherea of Manetho (p. xcix). Its present per-
pendicular height (PL B B, p. 134) is 204 ft., its former height (B C)
was 218 ft. ; the side of the base (A A) is 356'/2 ft. ; the present height
(AB) of the sloping sides is 2633/4 ft., being originally (A C) 2793/4 ft. ,
these rise at an angle of 51°. The upper part of the incrustation of
the pyramid was formed of limestone blocks, the lower part of granite,
left partly unsmoothed. The granite covering is in good preservation,
especially on the N. and W. sides. On the E. side lie the ruins of
the customary mortuary temple, laid bare during the American ex-
cavations of 1907 under Dr. Reisner and , as usual , approached
from the valley by a still recognizable causeway, beginning with a
so-called valley-temple, a smaller sanctuary built of brick.
The Interior is reached only with difficulty. The entrance is on the N.
side. A passage a c descends at an angle of 26° 2' for a distance of IO41/2 ft.,
being lined with red granite where it passes through the masonry from a
to 6 and then penetrating the solid rock from 6 to c. From c a horizontal
passage cd leads to an antechamber/, 7 ft. in height, 12 ft. in length, 10 ft.
in width, and decorated with door-shaped ornaments. Beyond this cham-
ber it passes three trap-doors g. descends slightly from h io d (gradient 4°),
a distance of 41'/2 ft., and finally descends to the chamber e, in a cavity
in which the sarcophagus of the king seems to have originally stood
(comp. p. 134). This chamber is 44V2 ft. long, 12'/? ft. broad, and, owing
to the unevenness of the rock, from which the pavement has been removed,
varies from 13 ft. to 13 ft. 5 in. in height.
In the pavement of the chamber e is the mouth (formerly covered) of
a shaft 30 ft. in length, which has a fine granite lining at its upper end
and could be closed by a trap-dour at its lower end. It is continued by
a horizontal shaft, 10 ft. in length, to the granite Tomb Chamber (PI. i).
134 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Third Pyramid.
Immediately before the latter is reached a, flight of seven steps leads to
the right to a chamber with recesses on the right and back walls. The
tomb-chamber is paved with blocks of granite, 21/2 ft. in thickness, and
its ceiling has been formed by placing the stones against each other at an
angle so as to resemble a roof and then hollowing them ont on the inside
in the form of a Gothic arch. The richly decorated sarcophagas of Men-
kewre was found here by Col. Vyse in a good state of preservation. It
was made of basalt and measured externally 2 ft. 7 in. in height. The
lid was gone. Fragments of the inner wooden coffin and of the royal
mummy (now in the British Museum) were found in the chamber e.
The vessel in which the sarcophagus was being conveyed to England
was unfortunately lost off the coast of Spain.
IfTfirnh^c^t^x^nil^^
The original intention of the builder was to construct a pyramid on
a small scale, containing only the sloping corridor I k, leading to a cham-
ber at e, smaller than that now existing. But when a larger pyramid was
projected the corridor abed was formed, leading first to an antechamber
and then to a tomb-chamber at «, enlarged by deepening the earlier
chamber at that point. Under the New Empire the interior of the pyramid
was ruined by the forcible entry of treasure-seekers -, but probably during
the Saite period a restoration took place. To this restoration are due the
sloping shaft and the granite chamber (i) in which the stone sarcophagus
of Menkewre was concealed, as well as the lower-lying room with the
recesses.
The Second and Third Pyramids are most conveniently visited in
the conrse of the circuit of the Pyramid plateau mentioned at p. 137.
After inspecting the Great Pyramid visitors usually proceed along
its E. side to the Sphinx, which rises from amidst the sand of the
desert about 350 yds. to the S.E.
The Sphinx. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. 6. Route. 135
The **Sphinx, which next to the Pyramids themselves is the
most famous monument in this vast burial-ground, is hewn out of
the natural rock and, with some aid from added blocks of stone, has
been moulded into the shape of a recumbent lion with the head of
a king wearing the royal head-cloth, adorned with the royal serpent.
Originally it was probably a natural rock which from a distance
somewhat resembled a lion. It was no doubt the workmen engaged
in building the tomb of Khephren who improved this resemblance
with the help of blocks of stone and carved the face in the likeness
of Khephren. Afterwards it was taken for the sun-god and named
Harmachii (i.e. 'Horus on the horizon'). In front of the breast
was once an image of a god. The head is now deplorably mutilated;
the neck has become too thin, the nose and beard have been broken
off, and the reddish tint which enlivened the face has almost dis-
appeared. But in spite of all injuries it preserves eyen now an
impressive expression of strength and majesty. The entire height
of the monument, from the pavement to the crown of the head, is
said to be 66 ft., -while its length from the fore-paws to the root
of the tail is 187 ft. The ear, according to Mariette, is 4'/2 ft., the
nose 5 ft. 7 in., and the mouth 7 ft. 7 in. in length; and the extreme
breadth of the face is 13 ft. 8 inches. If the traveller stands on the
upper part of the ear he cannot stretch his hand as far as the crown
0 f the head. There is a hollow in the head.
Tht Excavation of the Sphinx, so far as is now known, was first under-
taken by Thutmosis IV. (see below). During the Ptolemaic and Roman
periods the colossus was several times restored and was highly admired
und revered, as numerous inscriptions upon it testify. Curiously enough,
the Sphinx was mentioned neither by Herodotus nor by any later Greek
traveller. The mutilations which now disfigure it date from the Arab
domination. In 1380 it fell a victim to the iconoclastic zeal of a fanatic
sheikh, and it was afterwards used as a target by the barbarous Mamelnkes.
— In the 19th century the Sphinx was first completely excavated by Caviglia
(p. 126), at the cost (450/.) of an English society. He discovered the flight
iif steps which ascended to the stupendous monament, and also found be-
tween the paws of the lion a carefully laid pavement, at the end of which
next to the breast of the Sphinx rose a kind of open temple. The latter
was enclosed by two partitions, through which ran a passage, in the middle
of which was a small figure of a recumbent lion, facing the Sphinx. In the
background and at each side were memorial stones erected by Thntmosis IV.
and Kamses II. The Sphinx was again excavated by Mcupero in 1886. At
present, however, the Sphinx is much sanded up so that the above-
mentioned structures are no longer visible.
About 50 yds. to the S.E. of the Sphinx lies the large *ValIey
Temple of Khephren, long known as the 'Gkanitk Temple', dis-
covered by Mariette in 1853 and almost completely excavated by
the Von Sieglin expedition in 1909-10. This was the sanctuary
erected as an entrance to the causeway which ascended from the
valley to the mortuary temple and pyramid of Khephren. It is a
fine example of the simple and majestic architecture of a period
when the art of working the hardest kinds of stone had already
attained perfection.
136 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Khephren's Temple.
The total structure is 147 ft. square aud 43 ft. in height; exter-
nally the walls batter. The faijade, on the E. side, was pierced by
two huge portals (now closed), surrounded by monumental royal
inscriptions. The present entrance is from the ancient Causeway
(PI. a). We descend the corridor (PI. b) to the Antechamber (PI. c),
constructed of red granite, in which the passages leading from the
two portals unite. Here is also the well (PL dj, now full of water,
In which Marlette found the famous statue of Khephren now in
5 L
the museum at Cairo (p. 83). We return through the large door-
way in the central axis of the building into the main Hypoityle
Hall (PI. f), which is shaped like an inverted T, the main arm being
57 ft. long and 2972 ft- broad, and the cross arm 82 ft. long and
23 ft. broad. Sixteen monolithic granite pillars divide the main
arm into three aisles, the cross arm into two. The stone beams of
the architrave still preserve their sharp edges. These rooms were
lighted by means of smaU oblique openings, still to be seen in the
upper part of the side-walls. Against the walls originally stood 23
colossal royal statues, the bases of which have left rectangular marks
on the pavement. Several of these statues are now in Cairo. —
From the S.W. angle of the hypostyle hall a dark passage leads to a
group of Storerooms (PI. g), arranged in two stories with three rooms
in each. Thence we return to the entrance-corridor (PI. b), quit it
by a door on the left, and follow a short oblique passage to the Porter's
Room (PI. h), which is constructed of slabs of alabaster. To the
right In the corridor is the entrance to an Inclined Plane (PI. i),
which turns twice at a right angle and leads to the Roof of the
temple. The pavement and walls of this plane are likewise con-
structed of alabaster.
Circuit. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. 6. Route. 137
Between the Valley Temple and the Sphinx is a series of brick
walls, of the Ptolemaic or the Roman period, intended to protect the
Sphinx from the shifting sand.
The tomhs surrounding the different pyramids, where the rela-
tives and state-officials of the kings and also the priests and officials
of the various mortuary temples of the necropolis were interred, are
far inferior in interest to the tomhs that have been excavated and
rendered accessible at Sakkara (p. 149). Yet the manner in which
they are laid out in streets and lanes, especially in the area to the
W. of the Great Pyramid (recently excavated by German, Austrian,
and American explorers), affords the best extant picture of an Egyp-
tian necropolis. The so-called Tomb of Numbers (p. 139) and
Campbell's Tomb (p. 138) are nsually visited also.
Travellers who are not pressed for time and who desire to ob-
tain a closer view of the Second and Third Pyramids are recom-
mended to make the following *Circuit of the Pyramid Plateau
(comp. p. 123).
After having inspected the Great Pyramid (p. 127), we turn
(following the dotted line on the Plan, p. 123) to the left (W.) of
the entrance and descend as far as the N.W. angle of the Pyramid,
where the levelled space on the ground (b on the Plan), intended
for the reception of the corner-stone, has been exposed to view.
Towards the W. and S.W. lie numerous mastaba-tomhs presenting
an impressive appearance.
Those, however, who are not deterred by difficulty will find the tomb
(6th Dyn.) of Shtpiet-kef-onekh and his son Itneri, almost due N. of the
Second Pyramid, the least inconvenient. This tomb, called by the Beduins
Turha Lepsius {i.e. Lepsius's Tomb), is half- buried in sand, and visitors
have to crawl through the low entrance in order to reach the long
vaulted corridor, which is covered with reliefs and inscriptions. — The
beautiful tomb of Nefer-bew-Ptah (PI. c), a grandson of Shepses-kef-onekh,
lies to the left (S.), but is unfortunately quite buried.
We now skirt the N. and "W. sides of the vast necropolis, and
reach the N.W. angle of the rocky enclosure of the court of the
Second Pyramid. A natural cleft in the rock (PI. d) here facilitates
our descent from the top of the rock, which is over 16 ft, in height.
At the foot of it we reach the levelled plateau prepared for this
pyramid (p. 131). On the surface are a number of regularly arranged
square incisions, separated from each other by furrows about 2 ft.
wide. These date from the quarrying operations (comp. p. 356)
carried on here during the building of the pyramid.
On the rock above is an inscription in honour of Mei, chief architect
la the temple called 'Ramses II. shines in the Great House of the Prince"
(*.«. Heliopolis) and son of Bek-en-Amun, chief architect of Thebes. In the
reign of Ramses 11. Mei systematically demolished the temple ofKhephren
or part of the facing of the pyramid to obtain materials for building a
temple at Heliopolis.
On theE. side of the Pyramid are remains of the mortuary temple
138 Route 6. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. Campbell's Tomb.
connected with it (p. 132). We follow the W. side of the Pyramid.
On the rock to the right is another hieroglyphic inscription (PI. /")
by the above-mentioned Me'i , near which are several rock-tombs.
One of these (PI. ^), that ot Neb-em-yekhet, nearly opposite the
S.W. angle of the Pyramid, has a fine ceiling hewn in the rock in
imitation of palm-stems.
Our route now leads towards the S.W. to the Third Pyramid
(p. 133). To the S. of it stand three small Pyramids, belonging to
near relatives of King Mykerinos.
We now turn to the remains of the mortuary temple to the E. of
the Third Pyramid and descend towards the E. by the ancient cause-
way (p. 124). Here, on the left, is another series of rock-tombs dat-
ing from the 4th and 5th Dynasties. Among these is that of Tebehne
(PI. K), with several chambers and recesses. This is now closed by
a wooden door and is regarded as the sacred tomb of Sidi Hamed
Sam'an. Numerous villagers assemble here on Friday for religious
exercises.
In the valley before us. to the right, rises a projecting ridge of
rock containing tombs of no interest. Adjoining this rock, on the
left, is a picturesque Arab cemetery. Still farther to the E. we ob-
serve the remains of a wall (perhaps the ancient town-wall), with
a gateway. — After passing a high mound of debris, consisting
of a pyramidal mass of masonry on a projecting rock and supposed to
be the remains of an uncompleted pyramid, we come to other tombs
on the left, likewise covered with sand. Among these is the tomb
of Wer-khewew (PI. fc), a judge under the 5th Dynasty.
We now proceed to the left (N.) to Campbell's Tomb, a family
tomb of the 26th Dyn., discovered by Col. Vyse in 1837 and named
by him after Col. Campbell, the British consul-general in Egypt at
that period. The upper part, the mastaba proper, has been entirely
destroyed, and the shaft (53 ft. deep), at the bottom of which is
a tomb-chamber vaulted with an arch having a span of 11 ft., is now
uncovered. The sides of the shaft are separated from the surround-
ing rock by a trench, which is spanned by bridges of stone at only a
few points. The sarcophagus which stands in the tomb -chamber
contained the remains of the royal scribe Pe-kop Wah-eb-re-em-
yekhet, a contemporary of King Apries. Beside the sarcophagus
lies a stone lid shaped like a mummy. In niches in the S. and W.
sides of the shaft are two other sarcophagi ; a fourth sarcophagus
found here is now in the British Museum. All these sarcophagi had
been opened and plundered. For a description of the similar tombs
from the Persian period, see p. 166.
We return past the Sphinx (p. 135) and the Valley Temple 6 f
Khephren (p. 135) to the Great Pyramid and the three small pyra-
mids lying in front of it to the E.
We may now proceed to the E. to the verge of the desert-plateau,
in the direction of the Arab village of Kafr el-Haram, in order to
Tomh of Numlers. PYRAMIDS OF GIZEII. G. Route. 139
inspect the Tombs of the Ancient Empire, hollowed out in the rocky
slope. Several of these are now used as dwellings or stables. The
best known is the Tomb of Numbers (PI. n), which belonged to a
certain Khefre-onekh, a courtier of Khephren. On the left part of the
entrance-wall appear the deceased and his brother, accompanied by
a dog, inspecting the cattle that are driven before them by peasants.
The peasants are arranged in several rows, headed by one bearing
the sunshade of his master. Scribes are engaged in recording the
number of cattle of each kind, the numbers being placed above
the herds (whence the name of the tomb). Thus we are informed
that Khefre-onekh had 853 oxen, 220 cows and calves, 2235 goats,
760 asses, and 974 rams. On the left (S.) wall are the deceased
and his wife at table. On the rear (W. ) wftU are five door-shaped
steles with a statue of the deceased, to the left. The mural reliefs,
which are in poor preservation, are in the clumsy and undeveloped
style of the 4th Dynasty. — On the S. horizon, ca. 6 M. distant, rise
the pyramids of Abusir (p. 141) and the step-pyramid of Sakkara
(p. 146).
An expedition across the desert to the Western Petrified Forest
(Kom el-Khashah) is attractive (guide necessary). To the N. of the
Mena House Hotel we strike off to the "W. and after a ride of 3 hrs.
across a sandy valley reach tlie beginning of the petrified forest,
which extends as far as the Wadi Natrun (p. 32). Tlie specimens
of petrified trees here are much finer than those in the petrified
forest in the Arabian Desert (_pp. 118. 119).
The Excursion to the Pyramids of Aku Ro.^sh, which lie 5 M.
to the N. of the Pyramids of Gizeli, takes about half-a-day and is
most conveniently made from the Mena Uouse Hotel, where donkeys,
camels, or desert-carriages may be obtained. — Tlie route leads
through the desert, skirting the edge of the cultivated land. It then
l)ends to the E. through fields and reaches (3/4 hr.) the village of
Kerdaseh, which is prettily situated amid palm-groves and is itself
a sufficient attraction for an excursion, especially on Mon., which
is the weekly market-day. We then proceed through palm-groves
to (1 hr.) the village of Abu Roash, with the tomb of the saint of
that name. Here we again turn to the W. across the desert and
ascend by the ancient approach from the N.E., of which about 1 M.
is still preserved, to the (' o hr.l abrupt rocky plateau. On this
plateau standsthelargePyramidof Abu Koftsh, known by the natives
as El-k'd'a, the tomb of the king Tetf-re (4th Dyn.). The pyr-
amid itself has almost entirely disappeared, but we can look down
into the hollow hewn in the rock which contains the sepulchral
chamber, and on the passage descending to it. The remains of brick
buildings to the E. of the pyramid belong to the mortuary temple.
Adjacent is the house of the French Archaeological Institute. — A
liAKIiEKKK^ Kgypt. 7II1 Edit. 10
140 Route 6. ARU GUIiAR.
smaller stone pyramid to the S.W. has been entirely demolished.
The plateau commands a fine view of the Nile valley and of the
gorges of the Libyan desert. ■ — There is a third pyramid, built of
briclc, in the plain to the N. of the village of Abu Roash. The brick
superstructure, which was 55 ft. in height when l.epsius saw it in
1842, has since been entirely demolished, and nothing now remains
but the rock-core with the tomb-chamber.
The Excursion to the Pybamids of Aisusin, to the S. of Gizeh,
is interesting. Wo take tlie eli^ctric tramway to the Mena House Hotel
(p. 123) and proceed thence in IVs"*^ 'ts. on a donkey (there and
back 10 pias.), on a camel, or in a desert-carriage (see p. 139j. Or a
donkey may be taken direct from Cairo in 272 Its., via the villages '
of Gizeh, Tirsa, and Shobrement; or the excursion maybe combined <!
with that to Sakkara (p. 142; comp. Plan, p. 143). i
Quitting the Mena House Hotel we ride along the verge of the
desert, leaving the Pyramids of Gizeh on the right. To the left is the .
cultivated country, witli several villages. After about 1 hr. we have 1
the large cemetery of the village of Zdwiyet Abu MusaUim on our ,
right. A low mound of rubbish on the summit of the desert-plateau
marks the site of tlie stone pyramid of Zdwiyet el-' Aryan. In the
desert, about 3/^ M. to the N.W., lies a second and Unfinished Pyra-
mid, known as ^Shugl Iskender\ which seems to iiave been begun
by King Nebka (3rd Dyn.). Tliis has been excavated by Barsanti,
and plainly sliows the sloping passage cut in the rock and leading
to a large square shaft, in which the tomb-chamber was to have been
made. Tlie foundation and pavement of the last were completed
(both of red granite), and in it stands the finely-worked red granite
sarcophagus of the king, which was to have been half- embedded
in the pavement. — In l'/2 hr. we reach the rubbish heaps of Abu
Gurab. [Another, somewliat longer route leads via the village of
Zdwiyet Ahu MusaUim, with a picturesque sheikh's tomb.]
Abu GurS,b, formerly called also the Pyramid of Righa, was ex-
plored in 1898-1901, on behalf of the Berlin Museum, by Drs. Bor-
chardt and Schxfer. The building was a Sanctuary of the Sun
God, erected by King Nuserre (5th Dyn.) on the occasion of the
jubilee of his accession.
The sanctuary stands upon a low, artificially altered hill and consists of
an nncovered court, 330 ft. long by 250 ft. broad, with its entrance on the
E. side, while in the posterior (W.) and main part of it rose the large
Obelisk of the Sun. From the entrance-gate a (once) covered passage, or-
namented with fine reliefs, led to the left along the E. and S. sides of the
court, and then turned to the right (N.) to reach the obeliiik. The obelisk
itself has totally vanished, but part of the platform of masonry on which
it stood is still extant; and the top of this, reached by an internal stair-
case, commands a fine view. In the front half of the court was the place
for slaughtering the sacrificial bulls; the channels or gutters in the pave-
ment empty themselves into nine alabaster basins foriginally ten). In front
of the platform of the obelisk stands the Altar, 19 ft. long, 13 ft. broad,
ABUSIR. 6. Roule. 141
and 4 ft. liigh, built of live massive blocks of alabaster. On the .S. side of
tbe obelisk is a mined chapel, which was embellished with admirable
reliefs (now in the museums of Cairo and Herlin). On the N. side of the
obelisk was another sacrificial court. The N. side of the court was
flanked by treasure-houses, reached from the entrance-gate by a passafie
(to the right) similar to that described on p. 140. To the S. of the temple
lie the brick foundation.s of a boat of the sun. — The temple was conuected
by a covered cau.ieway with a gateway situated in the valley near the
N.E. slope of the hill.
The three largest Pyramids of Abusir, erected by kings of the
5th Dyn., stand close together, about 1 M. to the S.W. of the sanc-
tuary of Abu Gurab (comp. the Inset Plan II at p. 145 ). They were
explored in 1902-8 by the German Oriental Society under Dr. Bor-
chardt. The masonry of these monuments, having originally been
constructed with no great care, is now much damaged. The entran-
ces are on the N. sides, and the interior chambers are almost com-
pletely in ruins.
The northernmost of the pyramids is the Pyr.vmid of King
Sehurb. Its perpendicular height was 16'2Y4ft. (now 118 ft.), its
sides ■were 257 ft. (now 216 ft.) in length, and they were inclined
at the angle of 51" 42' 35". On the E. side of the pyramid lie
the extensive remains of the Mortuary Temple, to which a slightly
sloping causeway ascended from the small temple in the valley. The
long vestibule on the E. side of the temple opens into a passage,
which surrounds the following court on the E., N., and S. sides.
The large Colonnaded Court, the centre of the building, possesses
a well-preserved pavement of black basalt. Fragments of the sixteen
granite palm-cnlumns(p. clxi ), which once supported the roof of the
colonnade around the walls of the court, are scattered about. The
court is adjoined by a Transveme Room, which practically forms the
W. side of the above-mentioned passage, and by a Boom with Five
Recesses, in which stood statues of the king. A side-door on the left
admits to the narrow passages leading to the Sanctuary, in which, at
the foot of the pyramid, stood the large door-shaped stele. Among
the other apartments we may note the Storerooms for the Sacrificial
Offerings, a scries of two-storied chambers on the S. side, and the
two-storied Treasuries on the N. side. At the S.E. angle of the
pyramid, in a separate court with a side-entrance flanked by two
tree-trunk columns (p. clviii), stands the small Queen's Pyramid.
Next, to the S. , is the Pyramid of Nuseree, to which an easy
winding path ascends (fine panorama). It, too, bad a mortuary temple
on the E. side. From the plain a sloping causeway ascends to the
main entrance and the forec,oiirt, on each side of which lir store-
rooms. This is adjoined by an open court, with columns and a basaltic
pavement. Fragments of the granite papyrus-columns lie scattered
about. The following chambers, extending to the N. at the base of
the pyramid, are in a very ruinous state. To the N. of the temple are
some large Mastabas of the time of the 5th Dynasty. At the S.E.
corner of the pyramid is a smaller pyramid, perhaps that of the
10*
142 Route 6. ABUSIR.
queen. — The builder of the largest pyramid (sides 325. formerly
360ft.; perpendicular height 164, formerly 2'28 ft.), situated a little
to the S.W., was King Nefer-er-ke-re (6th l)yn.). On the E. side are
the remains of the mortuary temple, built of freestone and brick. —
The other buildings, some of which were pyramids and others
sanctuaries of the sun, are mere heaps of ruins.
A few paces to the S.K. of the Pyramid of Seliure is the Mastaba
of Ptahshepses (5th Dyn.), excavated by De Morgan in 1893. It is
mostly covered up again; the locked chambers are opened by the
keeper of Abusir. We first enter a large hall (only partly excavat-
ed), with twenty square pillars. Thence a door opens into another
hall, with three recesses containing statues; on the walls are reliefs
of goldsmiths and of workmen carving statues of the deceased in
wood and stone. A third hall, in which the lower parts of two lotus-
columns with bud-capitals, are still in situ ( comp. p. 83), contains
remains of fine wall-reliefs.
Continuing our route to Sakkara we leave to the left a pond and
the village of Abusir, situated beyond a group of palms to the S.E., and
soon reach the sandy eminences of the Necropolis of Memphis and Murl-
ette's House (p. 147), 'A hr. from the first pyramid of Abu.sir. At the village
of Abusir are the remains of a temple of the Nevr Empire.
7. The Site of Ancient Memphis and the Necropolis
of Sakkara.
A visit to Memphis and Sakkara may easily be accomplished in one
day. Provisions should not be forgotten. — Tickets admitting to the mon-
uments of Sakkara may be obtained for 5 pias. each at Marietle's House
(p. 147). Travellers, however, who possess a general Admission Ticket
from the Service des Anliquilis de VEgypte (p. 200) do not require these
special tickets. The custodians are forbidden to ask for gratuities, but a
single traveller generally gives '/z, parties 2-2'/zpias.
The following arrangement of the journey will be found convenient.
Take an early train to (I hr. ) BedrasTiein {Badrechein ; fares Ist cl. lt)V-'i
2iid cl. S'/apias.), where donkeys and drivers (10 pias. there and back, grat-
uity 3-5 pias.), camels, and desert-carriages (60 pias. there and back) are in
waiting. It is safer, however, to order a carriage by telegram addressed
to the station-master. Eide via the site of Memphis, where the "Colossi of
Ramses (p. 144) are inspected, and thence , passing the "Step Pj/ramid
(p. 146l, to (ca. 2 hrs. in all) Marietle's House (p. 147), in the Necropolis of
Sakkara. For luncheon and a visit to tlie ""Serapeum (p. 147) and the
""Tombs of Ti and Ptahhotep fpp. 149, 163) 4 hrs. should be allowed; and
possibly time may be found for the inspection of the Onnos Pyramid (p. 165)
and the Persian Tombs (p. 166) or for the "Tomb of Merertika (p. 169) and the
Street of Tombs (p. 162). For returning to the station of Bedrashein I'/z hr.
more should be reckoned. — A highly attractive return may be made by
the route already described via Abusir to the Mena House Hotel (2V2 hrs. ;
bargain beforehand with the donkey -driver at Bedrashein; thence to the
Mena House Hotel donkey 20, camel 25-50, desert-carr. 80-100 pias.), whence
we take the tramway to Cairo. Those who confine themselves to the
Necropolis of Sakkara may make the excursion from the Mena House Hotel
via At)usir (donkey 20, camel 30, desert-carr. 80 pias.). — For the route
to Sakkara via Helwan. see p. 170. — Comp. 'The Tombs of Sakkara', by
A. A. 'Quibell (Ca'ir.i, 1911; 5 piaa.).
%:
'1 .-a^'
III-
Jt .5 ^
.?'§
MEMPHIS. 7. Route. 143
The trains start lioiu the Central Station (p. 3!i). The railway
crosses the Nile beyond Bul&k (p. 78), passes (i^ji M.) Emhdbeh
(p. 79; tramway to Cairo, see p. 38, No. 6), a district-capital wit]\
3459 inliab., and makes a wide curve to (6 M.) Bfddk ed-Dakrur, on
a canal. To the right appear the Pyramids of Gizeh ; to the left a
reformatory for boys and p:irl3. We cross the road to the Pyramids.
— At(8V2 M-l Oheh (p. 80) we see Old Cairo (p. JOB) on the left,
above wliich rises the long ridge of the Mokattani and to the S. the
Gebel Tura (p. 170). To the right, beyond (11 V2 M-) Abu'n-Nomros,
rise tlie hills of the Libyan desert with the sun-temple of Abu Gurab
(p. 140), the Pyramids of Abusir, and the Step Pyramid I p. 146).
Fine groves of palms. 14 M. Tammuh; 171/0 M. El-HawQmdlyeh
(Hawarndia), witli a large sugar- factory. To the left, at the foot of
the Gebel Tura, lies Helwan (p. 167).
At (^201/2 M.l Bedrashein ( Badrechtin) visitors bound for Mem-
phis and Sakkara leave tlie train, which goes on to Upper Egypt.
The station lies to the left of the line.
Via Memphis (Colossi of Ramses) and Mix Hahineh to the
Neckopoi-is of S.VKK.inA. We ride along the railway, turn to the,
right, cross a bridge, and follow the embankment towards the village
of Betlrashein and a conspicuous grove of palms on the W. At the
end of the embankment, '20 min. from the station, where the path
divides, we keep to the left. The mounds of rubbish before us, the
ruins of brick buildings, between whii'li the lines of ancient streets
may often be traced, scattered blocks of granite, and broken pottery
mark the ancient —
Site of Memphis.
Were it not for the vast Necropolis to the W. of the ancient
city, no one would imagine that one of the most famous and pop-
ulous capitals of antiquity had once stood here. The Egyptians,
from the earliest period down to the Roman imperial epoch, built
tiieir private houses of large sun-dried bricks of Nile mud, reserv-
ing better material, such as limestone, .sandstone, or granite, for
palaces and temples. Hut even the public buildings of Memphis
have almost disappeared, as the stones were early carried off to build
other eilifices elsewhere. Excavations have been going on here
since 1908 under Prof. Flinders Petrie.
llisTORir. The story of Blempliis stretches back to the beginninf: of
Egyptian history. According to a very prubable tradition, Menes, the
first historical ruler in Egypt, is said to have founded the 'white walls''
of a fortress in a reclaimed district on the borders between the two
ancient kingdoms of XJpper and Lower Egypt Cp. xcix), in order to keep
the conquered inhabitants of Lower Egypt in subiection. To the S.
of this he i.s said to have built also the temple of Ptah (Hepha-stos), the
patron-god of the city. The new settlement rapidly became of importance ;
it was made the capital of a separate district, and the kings of the early-
dynasties sometimes planted their court here. Under the (jth Dyn. a new
quarter was founded, in which King Phiops I. lixed the residence of his
court and near which the sepulchral pyramid of the ruler was situated.
144 Route 7. MEMPHIS. Coiom.
This quarter, as well as the pyramid, was callod Men-nefru-Mire, i.e. 'The
beauty of King Mire (Phiops) remains', and this uame (in the later ab-
breviated form Men/e, in Greek Memphis) was afterwards applied to the
whole city. Mempliis attained its greatest prosperity under the monarchs
of the Ancient Empire, who resided here or in the vicinity (near Gizeh
and Abusir). Even under the Middle and New Empires, when Thebes
became the centre of Egypt and the Theban Amon the most revered
among the gods, Memphis appears to have retrograded but little. Tn the
time of the 2Uth Dyn. the temple of Ptah was still the largest in tlie
country but two. In the course of the contest.s fur the possession of
Egypt, which raged after the 2'2ad Dyn., the city was captured by the
Ethiopian Piankhi and by the As.syrians.
Cambyses, the first monarch of the Persian dynasty, took Memphis by
storm after his victory at Pelusium (525 B.C.j over Psammetichos III. ; and
even after the foundation of Alexandria (331 B.C.) it appears to have re-
tained some importance. Under Augustus it was a large and populous
city, though its palaces, elevated on an eminence, lay ruined aud deserted.
Among the temples that still existed were those of Ptah, of Apis (p.l47t,
and of a female deity who was identified with the Aphrodite of the Greeks.
In consequence of the edict of Theodosius (379-395 A.D. ; comp. p. cxii) the
temples and statues were destroyed, and under the later Byzantine mon-
archs the heretical Monophysites (p. cxiii) seem to have been very numerous
here. Mukaukis, the leader of the Copts, was established at Memphis
while negotiating with 'Amr ibn el-'A.s , the general of Omar (p. 44).
The Mohammedan conquerors transferred their residence to the right
bank of the Nile, opposite the northernmost part of Memphis, using the
well-hewn blocks, which had once composed the venerable palaces and
temples of the ancient city of Menes, for the construction of their palaces,
castles, and mosques at Cairo. But down to a late period the ruins of
Memphis excited the admiration of all visitors. Thus 'Abdellatif (at the
end of the 12th cent.) assures us that even in his time the ruins contained a
profusion of wonders which bewildered the mind and baffled description. —
After his time the rapidly dwindling ruins of Memphis are rarely mentioned.
Tlie path continuing in the original direction (W.) from the
fork (p. 143), and leading through the palm-grove to the village
of MH RaMneh, brings us to the ^Colossal Statues of Kamses 11.,
which once marked the entrance to the temple. The first of these,
discovered in 1888, is made of granite and lies on its hack on a
slight eminence. Its length is 26 ft., not including the crown, which
is 6^2 ft- long- The square hole in the head of the colossus was for
the insertion of the crown, which lies on the ground beside it. On
hoth shoulders, breast, girdle, and bracelet occurs the name of the
king; and on tlie pillar at the back is an inscription. On the left of
the statue is an incised relief of Princess Bent-Anat. — Beside the
statue stands a stele of Apries (p. cvi), in the rounded pediment
of which appear Ptah and the falcon- headed Soker. — A little
farther on lies a gigantic Sphinx, excavated in 1912 and in an ex-
cellent state of preserYation. It is made of alabaster and is, as far
as we know, tlie largest sphinx that has ever been transported, being
26 ft. long and 14 ft. high and weighing about 80 tons. It has no
inscriptions, but may be assigned to the 18th or 19th dynasty.
We next reach the mud-hut that conceals the Second Colossus
(adm. 4 pias. for those without official admission ticket, see p. 142).
discovered by Caviglia and Sloane in 1820. A wooden flight
of ste£s ascends to a platform from which the statue is in-
PYRAMIDS AND TOMBS of SAKKARA
Scale 1 ; 2.5.000
IV^
Oo
Modetm BuHdinqsare coloiu-ed bl/tdc.
" Tombs *: ■
:hv A^icierU h'n'ipire
>' t e I-
".fd''
%.l^
r-.-y
PrramiiL or Phiops I
Plan 1.
(SExteiiMon of Ihe Principal Mapi
S. Groups of llie
P^TtAMlDS OF SAKKARA.
•i^'
ograpli.TnBU't . of Wagiier *-Deljes,Leipii^.
■j:^-
?../'
apeiufflt
^//
.s" '^i-*
,>" i '^-r T>r v"^'
fHaraiB.-<'t-SiaK55&itsit) ; ^;- .-y.^ (jo' f ''- r"
/ TetZ \ '^OTtih or £rget7\ni ' " ^ -'. .^'^.'
Tnwhs nov / ' atrett of Tombs ol'ihe SthDriu i-l'-rt^fj
Pvnunia affepvet
Jitunjfd
f\r,unid
Abu sir ^
LlTLi:
,Vf^t to Ho V.
Pyruniid
orXuscrre
iloiinarvT.
Oatf-r
Pyramid
ofSehure
I ■ ^AHfrttany Temp le
^y
Plan II.
( N" V\' Kxlonsion of IhePriucipfU M.ip)
PYRAMIDS AND TOMBS
of
A B U S I R.
Necropolis. SAKKAKA. 7. Route. 145
spected. It consists of remarkably liard and liiic-graiucd limestone,
and before it was injured was about 4'2 ft. in height, corresponding
to tlie measurement given by Herodotus (30 cubits of I'/o ft- each).
Tiie workmanship is excellent. The liandsome and gentle features
of the king are admirably reproduced. A conventional beard is
attached to the chin. In the girdle is a dagger with two falcon's
heads. On the right shoulder, the breast, and the girdle appear the
praeuomina of Ramses II. This colossus is to be removed to the
Place Ramses in Cairo (comp. p. 78). — In front of the hut are
several fragments of monuments, showing the name of Ramses 11.
Two routes lead from the colossi to the Necropolis of Sakkara.
One, turning to the N., passes the ruins of. the old Temple of Ptah,
situated below the village of Mit Rahineh and close by a cemetery
containingthe picturesque tomh of a sheikh. Thence we ride through
the lanes of Mit Rahineh, beyond which we make for the Step Pyr-
amid due W. (p. 146).
The other route, more usually followed, leads to the W. from the
colossi of Ramses, leaving the village of Mit Rahineh to the right.
On quitting tlie palm-grove we obtain an attractive view ; imme-
diately to the right, shaded by palm-trees and lehbakhs, is a small
villa. About IV2M. to the W. is another long palm-grove surround-
ing Sakkara and bordering the desert; beyond this, on the yellow
sand of the desert, rise eleven pyramids. The iirst of these, to the
left, is the S. brick pyramid, beyond which are the blunted pyramid,
the N. brick pyramid, and the great pyramid, all belonging to the,
group of Dahshur (p. 166). Not far from these we next perceive the
Mastabat el-Fara'6n, with the pyramid of Phiops II.; then, exactly
above the houses of Sakkara, two pyramids, the lesser of which is
that of Phiops I.; and, lastly, to the right, the pyramid of Onnos,
the great step-pyramid, and two smaller ones (to the right, that of
Teti). These last seven pyramids belong to the group of Sakkara. —
We ride along the embankment to the W. and then to the N., skirt-
ing a canal (Bahr el-Libeini), to the lock-bridge, where we join
the direct route (sec below). We continue to follow the embank-
ment across the plain towards the W. and arrive (20 min. from
the lock-bridge) at the Rns el-Gisr ('head of the embankment').
From Bbdeashein to the NECROPOiiis or SakkAra direct. —
From the fork mentioned on p. 143 we ride to the N., following the
telegraph-poles, traversing the entire palm-grove and passing among
the brick ruins of ancient Memphis. We then follow the embank-
ment to the above-mentioned lock-bridge.
The united routes ascend to the plateau and bring us in sight
of the vast **NecropoIis of Sakkflira (Saqqara), which extends
about 41/3 M. from N. to S., and 1/4- 1 M. from E. to W. It contains
sepulchral monuments of almost every period of Egyptian history.
Loose heaps of light-coloured sand indicate recent excavations. The
146 Route 7. SAKKAUA. Step Pyramid.
whole necropolis lias been repeatedly explored by the Byzatitines
and the Caliphs, as well as by modern explorers.
On a hill close to the Ras el-Gisr lie the ruins of the large
Convent of St. Jeremiah, resembling a deserted village. They were
excavated in 1907-9 by .J. E. Quibell for the Kgyptian authorities.
The convent, founded in the second half of the 5th cent, and de-
stroyed by tlic Arabs about 960, includes two churches, a refectory,
a bake-house, oil-press, wine-cellars, etc. The cell of St. Jeremiah
also is preserved. Many of the monks' cells have remained intact,
each with a recess in the E. wall , which served as an oratory and
was sometimes adorned with paintings of the Madonna, the arch-
angels, and the founder of the convent. These paintings, like the
flue capitals and reliefs from the churches, are now in the museum
at Cairo (comp. p. 89J. On the walls are numerous Coptic and
Arabic inscriptions. The tombstones embedded in the pavement
were brought from the convent-cemetery. The best general survey
is obtained from the rubbish-heap.
From this convent we ride to the N.W., straight towards the
Step Pyramid.
The *Step Pyramid of tSakkara (Arab. Et-Ifaram el-Mudarrag,
i.e. 'the pyramid provided with steps'; comp. the illustration on
p. (Ixix), a very conspicuous feature in the landscape, may be
regarded as the 'Cognizance of Sakkara'. It was the tomb of the
ancient king Zo>!er (3rd Dyn.) and is one of the oldest stone
buildings in I'^gypt that have come down to our days. Tlie pyramid
consists of six stages, the lowest of which is about 'ijl^/2 ft. in height,
the next 36 ft., the third 341/4 ft., the fourth 321/2 ft-, the fifth
30^/4 ft., and the sixth 29 ft., while each stage recedes about 6'/2 ft.
as compared with the one below. The perpendicular height is
200 ft. For the graduated construction, comp. p. clxix. The pyramid
is built of an inferior clayey limestone quarried in the neighbour-
hood. The original entrance was on the N. side, at the foot of the
lowest step. The interior ( inaccessible) contains a complicated
series of passages and chambers, which, however, are due to
treasure-hunters and to later attempts at restoration ; for the orig-
inal construction of King Zoser had only one sloping entrance-shaft
(PI. ab, p. clxix), with ramps at the sides, and a single tomb-cham-
ber (PI. b). The pyramid is seldom climbed as the stoue of which
it is composed is very friable, but the top commands an interesting
view. — There are still some remains of the stone wall that en-
closed the pyramid; it was decorated with door-shaped ornaments.
About 300 yds. to the S.W. of the Step Pyramid is the Pyramid
of Onnos (p. 165). Beyond the Step Pyramid, in the direction of
Mariette's House, a striking view opens towards the N. In the fore-
ground lies the green valley of the Nile, bordered by palm-trees,
and framed on both sides with the yellowish -grey desert; in the
distance the alabaster mosque of Mohammed Ali at Cairo. On the
Sernpeum. SAKKAKA. 7. Route. 147
left tower the tlirec pyramids of Gizoh and tlie three nearer pyr-
amids of Abusir. The path turns to the right beyond the next heap
of rubbish (N.W.), crosses the hollow, and soon reaches —
Marietta's House. Auguste Mariette, the famous Egyptologist
(see p. 80), first rose into notice by his discovery of tiie Apis Tombs
in 1851; and from 1858 till liis death in 1881 was director of the
official excavations in Egypt. Visitors generally eat their luncheon
(brought from Cairo) on the terrace. A fee of S'/o pias. or more, ac-
cording to the number of the party, is given to the keepers in charge
of the house, who supply coffee prepared in the Arab style. From
this point paths lead to the various points of interest.
A few hundred yards to the W, of Mariette's House lies the
Egyptian "'*Serapeum, or subterranean Tombs of Apis, hewn in
the rock.
Apis (p. cxli), the sacred bull of the god Ptali (p. 143), which was wor-
shipped in a special temple at Memphis, was after death embalmed like a
human being and interred with great pomp in the necropolis of Memphis.
As early as the reign of Amenophis III., and probably still earlier, the Apis
tombs consisted of a subterranean tomb-chamber, reached by a sloping
shaft, over which a chapel was erected in honour of the bull. Under
llamses II. a large common grave was prepared for the Apis bulls by
Prince Kharawesot; a subterranean gallery, over 100 yds. in length, was
hewn in the rock and Hanked with chambers, which were walled up after
receiving the wooden coffin containing the sacred remains. Psanimetichos I.
caused a similar gallery with side-vaults to be constructed at right angles
to the first one. These vaults, which were added to at intervals down to
the Ptolemaic period, were mucli larger and more carcr\illy constructed
than the previous series. They have an aggregate length of about 380 yds.
and are about 10 ft. in width and IT'/s ft. in height. Above them rose
a, large temple for the cult of the dead god. — The ancient Egyptians
believed that like man (p. cslviii) the deceased bull was united with Osiris,
and became the 'Osiris-Apis' (Egypt. Oter-hape; Gr. Osorapis). He thus
became a kind of god of the dead and was called, like Osiris, 'Lord of
the western land'; pilgrims crowded to the tomb to iiiy their devotions
and to present votive offerings. The last were usually small memorial
tablets, which were inserted in the walls of the subterranean galleries.
The worship of the foreign god Serapis or Sarajyis, introduced under
Ptolemy I., rapidly spread in Egypt, and it is easy to understand how
the new Sarapis was confounded with Osorapis and worshipped along with
the latter in the ancient temple in tlie necropolis of Memphis. The temple
itself came to lie commonly known as the Saruyeion or Serapeum.
A second temple of Osorapis, built by Nektancbos II., once stood op-
posite the temple covering the Apis tombs (W. of IMariette's house). These
temples were connected by a path enclosed by walls, on which stood Greek
statues; a few nf these are still on their original site (but now covered
with sand). The '^reat Sphinx Avenue, which led to the W. through the
necropolis to the Seropeum, terminated in front of the temple of Ncktanebos
in a semicircular space adorned with statues of Greek jihilosophers. But
the remains of all these monuments are now covereil with sand, and
only the gallery of Apis Tombt constructed by Psammetichos is accessible
to visitors.
Passing through the Gateway (PI. a, p. 148), we enter a Chamber
(PI. b) of considerable dimensions, with niches in the bare lime-
stone walls, where many tombstones of deceased bulls and votive
tablets (see above) were found. Visitors light their candles here.
The guide now proceeds to the right. After a few paces we
L_
l4^^1ioulc7. .SAKKAUA. Serapeum.
observe at our foot a liugc block of black {^laiiitc (I'l. c), which
once formed the lid of a sarcophagus. Beyond it we turn to the
left and after ten paces we reach
■^ i an enormous granite sarcophagus
_ ,r (PI. d), which nearly fills the
i ' . passage. The lid and the sarco-
]-—/ phagus, which belong to each otlier,
I 'Zi:~ were probably stopped here on
their way to the vault for which
they were destiued, in consequence
"~ of the overthrow of the worship of
'■ -' - — Apis. Near the end of this passage
we turn to the left (S.) into another,
which leads us to the —
. V-^-~i ' Principal Passage (PI. AB),
j running parallel witli the ilrst, from
E. to W., and penetrating the solid
^.j rock. This passage is flanked with
side -chambers, about 26 ft. in
\ r. r lieight, the pavements and vaulted
' \ 7~^ '^' ceilings of which are constructed
j , of excellent Mokattam stone.
I Twenty-four of the chambers still
i» j ; contain huge sarcophagi in which
■^- ' i the Apis mummies were deposit-
„ 1 ed. These monster coffins each
'j consist of a single block of black
' r or red polished granite or of
limestone, and average 13 ft. in
length, 7 ft. in width, and 11 ft.
in height, and no less than 65 tons
I ) 1 ■ in weight. The covers, five of
1 J which are composed of separate
' U pieces of stone cemented together,
^ have in many instances been push-
■^^^x-^t '^ ed on one side. All the sarcophagi,
^ ' ^"Y f '." "" ".vfcirea whcn discoverod by Mariette, had
been emptied of their contents.
with the exception of two, which still contained a number of
trinkets. Only a few of the sarcophagi bear inscriptions; one
bears the n.'ime of Amaiis., another that of Cambyses, and a third
that of Khabbash, leader of the Egyptians against the Persians
(p. cvi). The finest is the last sarcophagus on the right side (PI. e),
to which a flight of steps descends. It consists of black and finely
polished granite and is covered with inscriptions and door-shaped
ornaments.
Near the E. end of the principal passage we reach a side-i)assage
Serapeum. SAKKARA. 7. BouU. 149
(PI. f) flivcrging to the right, sonic 22 yds. in lengtli, from which
another passage leads to tlie right, in a direction parallel with the
main corridor, but now built up. Opposite the side -passage we
pass over another sarcophagus by means of steps fPl. g) and thus
regain the door by which we entered the vaults. The temperature
in these subterranean chambers is alw ays nearly 80° Fahr.
'I confess', says Jlariette, in bis rep'jrt of the discovery, 'Ui.it when
I penetrated for the first time, on Nov. l'2th, 1851, into the Apis vaults, I
was so profoundly struck witli astonishment that the feeling is still
fresh in my mind, although five years have elapsed since then. Owing
to some chance which it is difficult to account for, a chamber which had
been walled up in the thirtieth year of the reign of Kamses 11. had es-
caped the notice of the plunderers of the vaults, and I was so fortunate as
to find it untouched. Although 37tX) years had elapsed since it was closed,
everything in the chamber seemed to be precisely in its original condition.
The finger-marks of the Egyptian who had inserted the last stone in
the wall built to conceal the doorway were still recognizable on the
lime. There were also the marks of naked feet imprinted on the sand
which lay in one corner of the tomb-chamber. Everything was in its
original condition in this tomb, where the embalmed remains of the bull
had lain undisturbed for thirty-seven centuries.''
Next to the Apis Tombs the private tombs [Mastabas, p. clxviil)
are the most interesting points at Sakkara, though only a few are
open to the inspection of tourists.
The most celebrated of them all, to the N.E. of Marictte's
House, is the **Mastaba of Ti, dating from the epoch of the
5th Dyn., at the beginning of whicli the deceased Ti was a high
court-official and wealthy landowner. The building originally
stood above ground but it is now almost entirely sunk in the sand,
it was discovered and excavated by Mariettc and has been restored
by the 'Service des Antiquites de TEgypte', as is recorded on a
tablet at the entrance. The mural reliefs, besides being interest-
ing on account of their subjects, are among the finest and best-
preserved examples of the art of the Ancient Empire (comp.
p. clxxiv).
From the street(Pl. A, p. 150) we first enter the Smaxl Vestibulf.
(PI. B), which contains two pillars (upper parts restored), on each
of which Ti is represented, in a long wig and a short, broad apron,
holding a staff in one hand and a kind of club in the other. On
the E. wall are several peasant women (PI. a), representing the
villages belonging to Ti, bringing food to the tomb; on the S. wall
are poultry anil doves being fatteTied in a pen (PL b). The other
reliefs are obliterated.
AVe next pass through a doorway, the sides of which show figures
of Ti and inscriptions, ami enter the Gkeat Court (PI. C), an
extensive ([uadrangle, with a modern wooden roof borne by twelve
ancient square pillars (restored). This hall was the scene of the
offerings to the deceased. In the centre of the court is a flight of
steps (I'l. d), by which we may descend to a low subterranean
150 Uoute 7.
SAKKAUA.
Miixtdba
passage, oxteiidiiiK tlie whole length of the building and leading
lirst to a kind of vestibule and then to tJie tomb chamber. The now
empty sarcophagus completely fills the niohe in which it stands.
The Mural Reliefs in the great court deserve no long examina-
tion j they are much injured by exposure and some have become
altogether unrecognizable. On the N.
r '^ Wall (PI. o) Ti is represented super-
; - intending the sacrifice and cutting
up of cattle, shown in the woodcut
at p. 151, and servants with gifts +.
Behind the wall here was another
chamber (Serddb,- PI. D ; p. clx viii), con-
taining statues. On the E. Wall (PI. f")
there are reliefs only to the left : Ti
borne in a litter, preceded by attend-
ants carrying fans, boxes, and chairs.
On the iv. Wall (from right to left):
Ti and his wife (Pl. h) inspect the
fattening of geese and the feeding of
cranes (PI. g") ; a poultry-yard (PI. i);
'l"i receiving the accounts of his offi-
cials, who stand in a house snj>ported
by columns; Ti (upper part injured)
superintending the arrival of liis Nile
boats, while herds of various kinds arc
driven towards him (PI. k); false door
dedicated to Ti's son (PI. 1).
We pass through the door in the
corner, noticing on each side three
figures of Ti, represented as walking
from within, each time in a different
costume. The door admits to a Corridor
f PI. E). On each side-wall are servants
l)earing of offerings into the tomb. On
the right is also a false door dedicated
to ^'efer-hoipes, the wife of Ti. Another door admits us to a Second
(."oRRiDOK. lu the lower row on the Left Wall the slaughter of
cattle for sacrifice Is represented; in the upper row statues of the
deceased are being drawn to the tomb on sledges, in front of
which a man pours water to prevent the heavily laden sledges
from taking fire by friction. On tlie Right Wall appear ships in
which Ti has inspected his estates in the Delta. The curious
f We annex woodcnts of some of the best of these scenes, froiu photo-
£;raphs taken from impressions obtained by Dr. Reil (d. 1880), and there-
fore almost facsimiles. With the exception of the large pictTire of Ti
engnped in hunting fp. 168), which is one-nineteenth Ihe original size,
they are reduced to one-twellth of the original size.
of Ti.
SAKKARA.
7. Route. 151
steering-gear should be noticed. Over the door by which we entered
are Ti and his wife in a boat in a tliicket of papyrus. Over the door
Tlirowin? down the victim,
leading to PI. G are dancers and singers. A door on tlie riglit now
leads into a Side Chamukk (IM. F), in which the original colours
of the reliefs are adinirahly preserved. On the upper part of tlie
oking poultry.
left door-post a piece of the sycamore wood to which tlie door was
attached is still in its place. Right Wall: Ti, who stands to the right,
receives from his servants
sacrilicial gifts (^(lowers,
cakes, poultry, etc.); in
the top row, tables with
sacrificial gifts. BackWalt:
at the top, pottery being
fired in a kiln; bakers and
Faltening geese.
Feeding cr.ine.a; (he t\vn men aliove
are preparing the food.
152
lloult 7 .
SAKKAKA.
Ma^laba
brewers; below, a man measures corn, wliile scribes note down tlie
quantity. Left Wall: Ti; to the right, servants with gifts; above, tables
ami ve^isels of various kinds. Entrance Wall: Tables and vessels.
Sailing-ship.
Leaving the corridor we pass through the door opening to
the S. (with a figure of Ti on each side} and enter the Tomb-
Chamber (PI. G) itself. The ceiling rests on two square pillars,
Jo Stri.es
of
Vurre.H.
i\ene.r
(Bair mutCUif^fd)
;I!a:-jofJ"afi-lu>7<U7ig Scen&r
East Wall of the Tomb-Chamber (PI. G).
coloured to imitate red granite. The names and titles of Ti are in-
scribed on the pillars. The reliefs here, the colouring of which is
also for the most part well preserved, repay careful examination.
of Ti.
SAKKAUA.
7. Route. 153
Winnnwins corn.
Reaping.
Ass witi) a sack of com.
Shaping a tree-trunk.
Ship-building.
rr v»pn
Ship-building.
Sawing. Carpenters making a door.
154 Route 7.
SAKKARA.
Mastaba
Oil the E. Side (to the left of the entraur'e; roiup. the Plan at
p. 152) Ti, to the right, with his wife kneeling at his side, appears
inspecting the liarvest operations, which are represented in ten
rows of scenes ( beginning at the top) : tlie corn is reaped, placed in
saelis, and loaded upon asses, which hear it to the threshing-floor; the
ears are taken from the sacks and piled in heaps ; then follows the
treading out of tlie corn by oxen or asses ; the threshed grain along
with the chaff is piled in a great heap by means of three-pronged
forks, then sifted, and winnowed with two small boards; finally
it is placed in a sack by a woman.
Farther to the right on this wall are two well-preserved and
several damaged ship-building scenes, representing the various
operations: shaping the tree-trunks, sawing boards, and the actual
Afit^Jofies and staff
Cmtrl,
af Justice
(yffKri:nris
Qfferinns }fiijxrin-nj
13earerj of 0.''fei-injjS'
Slnughierutg AnhnaJs
PigeuTis / G^^se , CranJts . Jnunals being tlaujghi^Kd.
S. Side of the Tomb-Chamber of Ti.
construction of tlie ship, on which some workmen are using hammer,
adze, and chisel, while others are placing the planks. Jn one of the
ships stands Ti, inspecting the work. The primitive saws, axes,
hammers, drills, and other tools used by the workmen are parti-
cularly interesting.
The S. Side (see Plan above) is richly covered with represent-
ations, but the upper parts are damaged. From left to right.
At the top (to the left), Ti. A small cleft below this figure to the
left, leads to a second Serddb (PI. H), in which a complete statue
of Ti (comp. p. 84) and several broken ones were found. To the right
and left of the cleft are two men offering incense to Ti. Ti and
his wife inspect their workmen, who are represented in four
rows : from above downwards, 1. Men blowing a furnace (perhaps for
glass-making or copper-smelting); 2. Sculptors and makers of stone
vessels; 3. Carpenters; to the left are men polishing a door and a
chest; then, men sawing planks; two men polishing a bedstead,
of Ti.
SAKKARA.
7. Route. 155
below wliicli lies a licad-rest; a man using a drill; 4. Leather-
workers and market-scenes; one dealer has a skin and two pots of
oil for sale; anotl\er has a wallet for which a man offers him a pair
H,1&M ^' A a A, IT 1 \ c^-^K
f"
Carpenters at work.
:^ fn^^lj
of sandals; a stamp-cutter makes a stone seal ; to the right a man
is selling sticks. — At the top \\\\ tlie middlej, Ti, with his wife
seated at his feet, inspects the different kinds of animals (antelopes,
'\J
fe^
Village-eldcB brmight to pive
e vdence.
Estafc-office.
gazelles, goats, stags, cattle; each with the name above) which are
being brought for sacrifice by the peasantry of his estates. Below,
three rows of cattle; three village-elders are forcibly brought to the
estate-office to give evidence as to taxes; at the bottom, poultry of
Baedekkk's Egypt. 7th Edit. 11
156 Route 7.
SAKKARA.
Mastaba
all kinds (eraucs, geese, pigeons). — At the top (to the right), Ti
is sitting at table, while attendants bring sacrificial gifts. Below
\/A^ i uh-cuUuny utnl Bt-rtL - ^ncu^ti/
SoLe.
Fxsrrzn^
OrFrre^^ Rtutu> Cattle^ Seated
Ape am.
Hujfti^ Cattle- Scerce<f
nith
and Kesit
n
HippupotaynzLS
QxjjorrvL ajftnitg
Fishing tn. Boats
Ploit^fang Sain*-
seed into the graurid
Scens
'J6 J^ema/a Figures repre^entij^tg Ti S e^ptatcr
N. Side of the Tomb-Chamber of Ti.
arc attendants with gifts for sacrifice, and flute-players and liarpers,
who perform music during the meal; slaughter and cutting up of
cattle for sacrifice.
Cattle feeding.
Ploughing.
Tilling. Sowing.
On the W. Sidt of the tomb-chamber are two large false doors,
representing the entrance to the realm of the dead. In front of tlie
of Ti.
SAKKAUA.
7. Route. 157
left door is a slab for tho reception of offerings. In the centre of
the wall are slaughterers and the presentation of gifts (^damaged);
above are tables.
-^^^
l^cft,
^t-
Rams treading in the seed.
lililiMliiil-.
Cattle driven tLrousjh a river.
Dwarfs with ape and dogs.
Captured fish.
The **North Side of the tomb-chamber (Plan, p. 156) is adorned
with scenes representing life in the marshes of the Delta. To the
left (beginning at the top) : Ti superintending fishing and bird-
11*
SAKKARA.
Mastaba
Peasant women vrith offerings.
ofTi. SAKKAKA. l.Koulc. 159
snaring (two rows); fisherman shaking flsli from a kind of wicker
bow-net into a basket; two men seated at a small table cutting up
fish; below, cattle pasturing; a cow is represented calving, another
is being milked, wliilc an overseer leans on his staff close by and a
herdsman grasping a calf by the legs prevents it running to its
mother; to the left, calves tethered to pegs in the ground try to tear
themselves free, others are browsing; to the right, herdsmen in
small papyrus boats drive a herd of cattle across a river in which
lurk two crocodiles; to the left are two dwarfs with their master's
pet ape and a leash of greyhounds.
In the centre: Ti sailing through the marshes in a boat of
papyrus. In front of him is a second boat, whose crew is engaged
in hunting hippopotami with harpoons, near which a hippopotamus
bites a crocodile. In a smaller boat behind is a man catching a
tish. In the surrounding papyrus-thicket various birds are sitting
on their nests or fluttering about. — To the right : Boatmen quar-
relling and lighting; fishing; tilling the ground, a man ploughs
with two oxen, which anotlier man drives (note the shape of the
plough), a third man breaks the clods, while a fourth is sowing;
close by is a scribe. Rams are driven over the newly-sown ground
to tread in the seed, while men hoe the ground, to the right. Cattle,
returning from pasturage in the Delta, are driven through the
water; one of the herdsmen, in front, carries a young calf on his
shoulders.
The narrow strip running along the entire N. wall at the bot-
tom consists of a procession of 36 peasant women bearing sacri-
ficial offerings of meat, poultry, vegetables, fruits, and drink. The
different figures represent the various estates of the deceased Ti,
the name of each being inscribed beside its representative.
The *Tomb of Mereruka is another grave well worthy of a visit.
It is situated at the N.W. angle of the Pyramid of Teti (p. 163 ), which
lies to theE. of Mariettas house, beyond a ruined stone pyramid. The
tomb dates from the beginning of the 6th Dyn. and contains 31 rooms
and passages, divided into three sections, of which that marked A on
the plaTi (p. 160) belonged to Mereriiica, that marked B to Hert-
\ratet-khet^ his wife, and that marked C to their son Meri-Teti. The
tablet at the entrance records the discovery in 1893.
Rooms harkkd A. To the right and left of the Entrance: Mereruka and
his wife (the latter on a small scale). To the right in the entrance: the
artist who de.signcd the reliefs, seated before an easel, painting the three
seasons of the Egyptian year (p. Ixxiii), represented by deities; in one
hand he holds a shell containing colour, and in the other a pen, while a
writing-apparatus hangs from his shoulder; in front of him stands his
son Khenu. To the loft: Mereruka, before whom is his little son Mcri-
Teli, holding a lotus-stalk and a bird; beliind Mereruka appear his wife
and several rows of attendants. — A 1. N^. Wall. Mereruka, in a papyrus
boat with his wife, spearing fish; in two smaller boats are men harpooning
ihrce liippopotami; in the reeds are birds and in the river fish. S. Wall.
Mereruka hunting in the marshes, in a boat, accompanied by his wife.
160 Route
SAKKARA.
Tornb of
,\
1
\ti
A2
"In
ij
1 f''^'
\
M
A'^
The details are beautifully rendered (birds, lish, etc., hippopotamns with
a crocodile in its mouth). Below, to the left, cuttle crossing a stream;
above, cattle thrown on the ground in order to be slaughtered; gardens
heing watered. The positions of the cattle arc accurately observed and
reproduced. — A 2 contains the mummy-shaft. — A3. E. ^yall. Mereruka
and his wife (to the left) inspecting various operations, which are repre-
sented in six rows. In the two lowest rows are metal-workers and makers
of necklaces and ves-
sels ; in the 3rd row,
three statues are being
drawn to the tomb, while
a priest swings a censer ;
in the 4th row are car-
penters making bed-
steads; and in the 5th
row are men making
stoneware vessels. TV.
Wall. Mereruka and his
wife, accompanied by
attendants, at a hunt in
the desert; desert ;ini-
mals ; hound seizing an
antelope; lion devour-
ing a bull; hedgehogs;
hares. —ALE. Wall.
To the right, Mereruka
and hiswife, with attend-
ants, watching the cap-
ture of fish ; the fat
brother of the deceased
is shown sailing in a
boat and drinking from
a cup; to the left, Mere-
ruka and his wife; be-
fore them are servants,
one leading a monkey
and two hounds in a
leash. W. Wall. To the
left is the estate-office,
a hall with columns, in
which the clerks sit,
while the village-elders
are being dragged, not
without cudgelling, to
give evidence as to taxes
(comp. p. 155); one has
been stripped and is be-
ing beaten at a whipping-post. To the right, Mereruka and his wife in-
spect the offering of sacrifices to the statues of the deceased. — A 5 con-
tains no reliefs. — Leaving A 6-A 9 unvisited for the present (see p. 161),
we turn to the right and enter —
A 10, the roof of which is supported by four pillars, bearing incised
reliefs of the deceased. W, Wall (beginning to the left). Bedroom scenes.
Tlie bed, standing beneath a canopy, is prepared in presence of Mereruka
and hiswife; the deceased, along with his wife, who plays upon a harp,
sits upon a large couch with lions' feet, beneath which are two rows of
vases ; Mereruka, seated in an easy chair, receives gifts of various kinds
in vases and boxes from his retainers. JV. Wall. Priests of the dead bring
stands loaded with meat and drink to the deceased. E. Wall. Mereruka
and his wife, with attendants; servants bringing sacrificial gifts; male
and female dancers (two lowest rows). <S. Wall. The deceased receiving
sacrificial gifts. — A 11. Only a few reliefs are preserved here, together
with the false door on the W. Wall, behind which is a Serdab. — A 12.
Mereruka. SAKKAUA. 7. Route. 161
iV. ^Vall. Tlic deceased receiving: gifts; in the second row from the liottoni
arc ten barns or storehouses ; in tlie lowest row, treading grapes and press-
ing the trodden grapes in a sack. On the other walls arc the deceased
receivinsx food and drink, and cattle being slaugbtered.
*A 13, the sacrificial chamber, has six square pillars, on which Mere-
ruka is represented standing. In the middle is a stone ring for tethering
the sacrificial ox. iN''. Wall. In a recess is a statue of Mereruka (front view),
with a sacrificial tablet in front. Mural reliefs (from right to left): Mereruka
inspecting domestic animals, etc. (in the top row, boat-building, in the four
lower rows, gazelles, antelopes, and cattle, in the lowest row, feeding
tame hyfenas); the aged Mereruka conducted by his two sons; Mereruka
in a sedan-chair, with a large retinue, including two dwarfs leading dogs.
W. Wall (much damaged). Ships. S. Wall (bottom row only preserved)
Funeral: entrance to the tomb, with a priest and dancers in front of
it; tt) the left, men carrying a large chest; sacrificial gifts; fonr ships,
with several men in the water; the funeral procession with professional
mourners (very graphic). To the left of the door, the deceased, accom-
])anied by two women, sails in a boat through the marshes; crocodiles
and fish in the water. K Wall. To the right, harvest operations in pre-
sence of the deceased and his wife and mother. To the left, Mereruka
and his wife playing draughts. Over and beside Vie door to C 1 : Mereruka,
his wife, and mother, with female dancer.i* and musicians; various games.
We now pa«s through a doorway of modern construction and enter the —
Rooms marked C. — CI. E. Wall. To the right, poultry-yard, fatten-
ing geese; to the left, cattle and antelopes. JV. Wall, Jleri-Teti, son
of Mereruka. receiving .sacrificial gifts from servants. W. Wall. The de-
ceased vritnessing a hunt in the desert: gazelles and antelopes. S. Wall.
Servants witti poultry and fish as sacrificial gifts. — C 2 has no reliefs. —
C 3. E. Wall. In the two lowest rows, cattle beinv: slaughtered for sacrifice;
in the upper rows, .Servants bringing gifts, cattle, gazelles, etc. ?f. <t 5.
WalU. Meri-Teti at table; servants bringing sacrificial gifts. W. Wall. False
door, with the deoe.ised's name inserted in place of an earlier one; in front
is an altar. — C 4. E. Wall. Men bearing large chests full of clothing and
vessels to Meri-Teti, who stands on the left. iV. Wall. In the centre, the
deceased; at the sides, servants bringing jars and bo.xes ; to the right large
jars are being brought on sledges. W. Wall. Attendants with gifts (un-
finished); square hole leading to C 5, the Serdab. /S. Wall, unfinished (re-
liefs similar to those on the N. wall). — We now return to A 13 and turn-
ing to the right (W.) enter the nnvisited —
Rooms markkd A icontinucd). A 14 leads to several sfore-chambers
(A 1.0 - A 21), only about 3 ft. high; the names are inscribed above the
doors. — From A 16 we enter .\ 9. W. Wall. In the centre are Mereruka
and his wife, to the right and left are servants bearing pieces of cloth,
vessels of sacred oil, bo.ves of elothinz, and stands of ornaments; a sledge
with three large jars. £. Wall. Similar scenes. — A 8. Beyond the false
door on tlie W. Wall, iti front of which stood the table of oflerings, nothing
of interest. — A 6. W. Wall. Feeding of poultry (pigeons, geese, cranes).
A narrow cleft in this wall leads to the Serdab (A 7), in which a painted
statue of Mereruka was found. S. Wall. To the left, cattle, antelopes, etc.,
are being driven before the deceased, while scribes note down the numbers ;
to the right, peasant women, representing villages the names of which
are inscribed, bringing gifts. N. Wall. To the left, the slaughtering of
cattle, to the right. Mereruka inspecting his fishermen.
Rooms marked 1'.. — Bi. Jf. <C- S. Walls. The wife of Mereruka, a
princess, receiving various gifts from her attendants, ll'. Wall. To the right,
Jlereruka's wife, son, and daughter; four servants bearing a litter adorned
with lio'is; to the left, fishing scene; above, capture of wild bulls. — B 2.
.Staircase. — B 3. A^. Wall fto the left of the door leading to B 5). Dancers.
On the other walls arc servants bringing food for the deceased, and cattle. —
B 4. Serdab (inaccessible). — B 5. W. Wall. In the centre is an elaborate
false door, iu front of which is a square block once supporting a table
of offerings; to the right and left is the deceased stt table, with servant-s
162 Route 7. SAKKARA. Street of Tombs.
briiijiini; fonci, (lowers, etc. iV. Wall. Mereruka's wife arid son carried by
women iu a litter adorned with a lion, near which aro three dogs and a
pet ape. On the other walls, Attendants bringing gifts to the deceased ;
cattle being slaughtered. — B 6. Empty.
To the right (E.) of Mereruka's Tomb lies the Mastaba of
Ke-gera-ni, a vizier and judge, also of tlie 6tli Dyn. and excavated in
1893. The paintings here are of inferior interest.
Room I (PI. A). On the left wall. Ke-gem-ni
inspects his cattle and poultry ; hyanas are being
fed; feeding poultry; bird - snaring. On the right
wall the deceased inspects the fisheries; the cap-
tured fish are recorded and carried away. Above
the door tn the next room is the deceased in his
litter. — Room II (PI. B). Ke-gem-ni receiving gifts
from his attendants. To the left is a chamber (PI. C)
in which figures of the deceased are chiselled out at
two places. — Room III (PI. D). On the side-walls,
Ke-gem-ni, seated in a chair, receives sacrificial
gifts. On the end-wall is the false door, in front of
which was the table of offerings, reached by a flight
of steps. — Room IV (PI. E). Two representations of
Ke-gem-ni, standing, and receiving gifts from his
attendants; tables with vessels; large ointment-jars
dragged on sledges.
A few paces to tlie E. of the tomb of Ke-gem-ni, and to tlie N.
of tlic Teti pyramid (p. 163), is a Street of Tombs, exhumed by
Loret in 189'J but partly covereil up again. Several interesting
structures of the 6th Dyn. were discovered here. The first Is the
somewhat ruinous tomb of Nefer-seshem-re , surnamed ShesM^ a
vizier and judge, the chief remains of "which are a hall with six
square pillars, each bearing the figure of the deceased, and an ele-
gant false door.
The first tomb on the left in the Street of Tombs proper is that
of *Enkh-7ne-Hor, surnamed Sesi, also called the 'Tomb of the
Physician' on account of the surgical operations represented. The
upper part of the wall has been destroyed.
EooM I. To the left of the entrance : Farming scenes, including a re-
presentation of cattle fording a river. — In IlooM II, lying behind 11. I,
the deceased is represented on the left wall inspecting the catching of
birds. On the rear wall are interesting representations of statues being
prepared fur the tomb. In the doorway to the next room is represented
the slaughter of sacrificial animals; to the right, the attendants arc seen
throwing an ox to the ground. — The Three Followino Rooms contain the
customary representations, such as the bringing of offerings to the dead,
and the slaughtering of cattle. — We return to the first room and enter
the room lying to one side of it, which was formerly supported by five
pillars. In the doorway are representations of surgical operations; on
the right, circumcision, on the left, an operation on a mans toe. On the
entrance-wall of the Pillaeed 1!oom, to the right, are representations of
attendants and women bewailing the dead, while to the left arc dancers.
The next tomb belongs to Vze-he-Teti, or Nefer-seshem-Ftah,
surnamed Sheshi, 'the first next to the king'.
From the Entrance Koom we proceed through a door, with represent-
ations of attendants and sacrificial animals, into a Second Chambek, with
some fine reliefs. On the right wall : catching of wild ducks with a
MaHaba of Ftuhh'Aep. .SAKKAKA. 7. lioult. 163
net; iiliove, a poultry-yard, uatchiut: of fowls, feeding of eeeso i on Ihe
other walls are attendants with sacrificial gifts, several of them in boats.
— On the W. wall of the Last Room is the false door, through which the
deceased is twice represented as emerging; above is a wiiubiw, out of
which he is lookiu;;; in front is the tabic of olferings; on the other walls
are the deceased at a banquet, attendants with gifts, and the slaughtering
of lattle for an offering to the dead.
If in)t pressed for time the traveller may now ascend to tlie
Pyramid of Teti, to the E. of which lie the scanty ruins of the
mortuary temple. Farther to the E. lies a chaos of huildings, brought
to light during the excavations lately carried on by Mr. Quibell of the
Service des Antiquites de TEgypte, and dating from various times
from the Ancient Empire down to tlie Greek period. The oldest
monuments are two large stone mastabas, belonging to the Ancient
Empire, surmounted by brick tombs added in the Middle Empire.
The brick wall by whii^h these are surrounded is 30-33 ft. thick
and dates from the Greek period. — Close by is the House of the
Service des Antiquiles. In front of this, to the N. and E. , stretches
a cemetery recently excavated by Quiholl, with Brick Ma^tahas of
the 2nd and 3rd Dynasties.
The niastaba of Ti is rivalled in beauty by tlie reliefs in the
**Mastaba of Ptahhotep, which lies between the Onnos Pyramid
and Mariette's House , a few hundred yards from tlie latter. It
dates from the period of the 5th Dyn., under which the deceased
held one of the highest offices of state.
From the entrance (A on the Plan, p. 164), on the N. side, we
enter a Corbiuor (B), on the right of which is the Pillared Hail
(C), a large square apartment with its roof supported by four pillars.
A door in the S.E. angle admits us to a vestibule (E), beyond
which is the —
Tomb-Ghamber of Ptahhotep (F), adorned with mural reliefs
tliat are among the highest achievements of ancient Egyptian art at
its zeivith (p. clxxiv). The colours are still well pftscrved. The ceil-
ing imilales the trunks of palm-trees.
Jn the Doorway : Servants with sacrificial gifts. N.Wall: over
the door, Ptahhotep at his morning toilet, with his greyhounds
under liis chair and a pet ape held by an attendant; in front of
him are harpers and singers; dwarfs stringing beads (upper row);
officials seated on the ground (next two rows); harpers and flute-
players and a singer beating time with Ids hands (lowest row).
To the left of the door are servants with gifts; slaughter of the
sacrificial oxen. — \V. Wall: In the right and left angles are false
doors ; that on the right, very elaborate, perhaps representing the
facade of a palace. On th» left door (at the foot) the deceased is
represented seated in a chapel (right) and boiiic in a litter (left); in
front is the table of offerings. The wall-reliefs represent Ptahhotep
seated at a richly furnished banquet (left); before him are priests
making offerings (upper row) and servants bearing various gifts
164
Route
SAKKARA. Mastaba of Plahhotep.
(three lower rows); above is tlie list of dishes. — On the S. Wall
is a similar representation of the deceased at table; before him are
peasant women with gifts (top row; injured); in tlio second row
the sacrificial animals are being cut up; in the lowest two rows are
servants with all kinds of offerings. — The representations on the
E. Wall are the tiaest and most interesting. On the right Ptahhotep
inspects the 'gifts and tribute that are brought by the estates of the
N. and S.'; in the upper row are boys wrestling and seven boys
running (the first having his arms tied). In the next two rows are
shown the spoils of the chase: four men drag two cages containing
lions, a man carries a frame loaded with young gazelles, bound
together in groups, another has cages with hares and hedgehogs.
lu the fourth row are herdsmen and cattle in the fields, the calves
i iirainid of King Onno<. SAKKAUA. '.Route. IbO
being tethered to pegs ; in tiie two following row s cattle are
bronght for inspection (note the lame herdsman leading a bull with
a neek-ornanient) ; in the lowest row, poultry. On the left Ptahhotep
is shown 'contemplating all tiie pleasant diversions that take place
throughout the country'; in the top row a herd of cattle is being
driven tliroiigh a marsh, and men are engaged in plucking papyrus
plants, tying them in bundles, and carrying them away; in the
second row are boys playing; the vintage is represented in the
third, with vines upon trellises, watered by a servant, while others
gather the grapes and tread them in the wine-press or crush them
in sncks; the fourth and fifth rows are devoted to animal life and
liunting in the desert; in the sixth are men labouring in the marsh,
cleaning fish, and making ropes and papyrus boats; in the seventh
row are fowlers with nets and other men placing the captured birds
in boxes and bearing them away ; in the lowest row are peasants in
boats upon the Nile, with plants and fishes; some of the peasants
are fighting. In the boat to the left appears Enkh-en-Ptah, sculptor-
in-cliief, receiving a drink from a boy ; this is doubtless the artist
who designed the reliefs and has here immortalized himself.
We now return to the Pillared Hall and pass tlirough a door in
the W. wall into the Chapel of Ekhet-hotet (^D), a son of Ptah-
hotep. To the right and left arc representations of the deceased at
a banquet, with servants bringing him sacrificial gifts. On the W.
wall is a false door, with a large table of offerings.
From the mastaba of Ptahhotep a path leads to the S.E. to
(I/3 M.) the *Pyramid of King Onnos or TJnis (p. c\ which may
easily be climbed without assistance. The view from the top repays
the exertion: to the N. are the Pyramids of Abusir and Gizeh; to the
S., those of Sakkara and Dahshiir; and to the E., the Step Pyramid
and the palm-groves and fields of Sakkara and Mit Kahineh.
Iktekior. The pyramid was ojiencd in 1S81 and is accessible to visit-
ors (apply to the keeper; admission tickets, see p. 142). A sloping Passage,
the mouth of which was formerly covered by the pavement, runs from
the middle of the N. side to an AnUchrtmber, beyond which a straight
Corridor, originally Mocked at the farther end by three trap-doors, leads
to a Central Chamber, with the 7b;»6 Chamber on the right (AV.) and another
Small Room on the left (E.). The last, which was originally closed by a
slab of stone, has a flat roi.f and three recesses, while the central chamber
and the tomb-chamber have ]<ointed roofs and walls covered with inscrip-
tions, the so-called pyramid-text-:. These hieroglyphics arc cut into the
stone and filled with blue pigment. They relate to the life beyond the
tomb anil are the oldest religious Egyi)tian texts known. The granite sarco-
plia-ius of the king stands in the tomb-chamber, close to the W. wall. To
the right and left arc false doors of alabaster.
Tlie small Mortuary Temple, which stood on the E. side of the
pyramid, has recently been excavated by the Egyptian Service des
Antiquitcs, but is much dilapidated. It contained a court with
palm-columns (see p. 83), of which fragments V.c scattered about. At
the foot of the pyramid, probably on the site of the inner sanctuary,
are some vestiges of a false door of granite.
166 Route 7. SAKKARA.
On the S. side of tlie Pyramid of Oniios are three Shaft Tombs
OF THE Persian Epoch, all of similar arrangement. A vertical
square shaft descends to a chamber constrncte<l of blocks of stone,
at the bottom of a larger shaft sunk for the purposes of constractioii
and then again filled in. These tombs are now accessible by a spiral
staircase and are connected with each other by tunnels.
The descent is somewhat toilsome. The shaft, 72 ft. deep, leads
via a corridor 16 ft. long to the v;nilted fomh-cliamber of the physician
Psamlik, a conteuipurary of Darius I. The walls are decorated with re-
ligious inscriptions. The lid of the lar'^e limestone coffin is raised and
the arrangement for lowering it is plainly visible. This coffin contained
.a smaller one of basalt and. like those iu the twt) other tombs, is let into
the floor. — To the W. is a modern tunnel, lending to the tomb-shaft and
sarcophagus-chamber of the royal admiral Zen/iehii (comp. p. 99), which con-
tains some beautifully carved inscriptions. — Towards the E. we descend !
by steps to the shaft (88 ft. deep) and the chamber of Pete-ese. The walls ',
are decorated with inscriptions in fine, low relief, the colouring of which
is well preserved, and with representations of sacrificial gifts. The vaulted^
roof is covered with coloured stars upon a white ground. ;
If time permit the traveller may now proceed to tlie S. Pyramids ',
of Sakkdra, a ride of 174hr. to the S. from Mariette's House. We"
pass near a piece of ground about 440 yds. square, enclosed by'
broad and massive, but now very dilapidated walls on the E., N., i
and W. sides, while the S. side is bounded by the natural hills of
the desert. The route leads thence straight to the Mastabat el-Fara'6n,
the most interesting monument in the S. group. To the left are
the dilapidated Pyramids of Phiops I. and Merenre and a pyramid
called by the Arabs El-Haram esh-Showwaf. On the N.W. (r.) side
of the Mastabat el-Fara'6u is the Pyramid of Phiops II. All these
pyramids (now inaccessiblel are constructed and adorned exactly in
the same manner as that of King Onnos (p. 165). The Maslabat el-
Fara'on resembles in its shape some of the mastabas of the Middle
Empire. The passages in the interior resemble those iu the pyr-
amids of Onnos and his successors, so that this monument may
probably enough be a king's grave, as its name implies ('grave
of Pharaoh'). The top, which is easily reached, commands a
fine view.
About IVa M. to the S. of the Mastabat el-P"ara'on lie the Necropolis and
Pyramids of Dahshur. Here vise two large pyramids and a smaller one of
limestone and two of brick (El-Ahrcim es-SM, the 'Black Pyramids'), together
with remains of others, all of which are at a considerable distance from
each other. The y. Brick Pyramid., which was once covered with slabs of
stone, is probably the tomb of King Sesostris III. (I2th Dyn.). The length
of the side at the base is 344 ft., while the height is now only about 90 ft.
To the N. of this pyramid, but within the girdle-wall that formerly en-
closed it, are two subterranean galleries with tomb-chambers in which
female members of the royal family were interred. The jewels found
here are now in the Cairo Museum (p. 97).
To the S.W. of the N. Brick Pyramid lies a larger Stone Pijramid.
This is still 325 ft. in height and 709 ft. in width, being nearly as large
as the Great Pyramid of Gizeh (p. 127), and in its solitude presents a
very imposing appearance. Lfke the Pyramid of Meidum (p. 205) it was
bniit by Snofru, and is thus the most ancient roval tomb in the form of
a pyramid.
HELWAN. 8. Route. 167
To the E. is the ruintlus pyramid oi Amenemhet JI. (I2th Dyn.)i while
to the E. and S. are remains of several other pyramids. Still farther to
the S. rises a pyramid of peculiar form, sometimes called the Blunted
Pyramid or Pyramid of the Two AngUt, the lower part rising at an angle
of 54° 41', while the sides of the apex form an angle of 42° 59'. This pyr-
amid is 6l8'/'j ft. square and 319 ft. in height. The exterior coating is
in good preservation and gives a very good notion of the former super-
ficial appearance of the pyramids. The interior was explored as early as
tlie year 1G()0 by an English traveller named Melton. In 186(3 Le Brnn
found a small chamber in the interior. No clue to the name of the builder
has been discovered. To the S. is the pyramid of the queen.
To the E. of the Blunted Pyramid and a few kilometres to the S. of
the N. Brick Pyramid, near the village of Menshiyeh, which lies on the
edge of the desert to the N. of Dahshur, rises the S. Brick Pyramid. This,
which was originally covered with limestone slal)s, was perhaps built by King
Amenemhet lU. (12th Dyn.). To the N. of it, but enclosed by the former
girdle-wall, are the graves of King ffor (pp. 8i, 98) and Princess Neb-
lietepti-khrol (p. 98).
8. Baths of Helwan.
Light Railway to (17 JI.) Ilelwan via Tura in 29-44 min.; 31 trains
daily from Cairo. Return-tickets, 1st el. 8, 'ind cl. 5 pias. First-class day
return-ticket including luncheon at the Grand-Hotel Helouan, 25 pias. ;
tickets may be procured in the hotels of the Nungovich Co. (p. 35). —
There is also a picturesque Road from Cairo to Helw.nu (comp. p. 101),
much used by motorists.
The trains start from the Bab el-Lvk Station (PI. B, 5) and
follow the direction of the Sharf el-Mansur. Beyond the stations
of Seiyideh Zeinah (PI. T'., 7) and St. (ieorges (for Old Cairo, p. 106)
the railway traverses the narrow plain on the V). bank of the Nile,
generally on the honndary between tlie cultivated land and the
desert. — At El-Ma'<'idi (Meadi) are a new villa-colony and an un-
finished rifle-factory. To the rig;ht, beyond Tura, are the 'Egyptian
Army Bakery & Supply Stores' and a penitentiary ; about 1 '/■> M. to
the left are the quarries (p. 170). On the hill stand the ruins of an
old fort. — Mn'sara, a village on the Nile. — The line leaves the
Nile and ascends along the slopes of the Gebel Tura to —
17 M. Eelw&n (Plan, see p. 169). — Hotels & Pensions. "HdTEL
Al-Hatat (PI. c; C, 2), on the Mokattam plateau to the E. of the town,
5 min. from tlie station, with central heating, terrace, and garden, pens.
fri)m 8(1, motor-omnibus 2 pi:is. ; 'Tewfik Palace Hotel (PI. n; A, 1), in
a former khedivial mansion, refitted in 1911, with central heating and
garden, open all the year round, pens, from (50, motor-omn. 5 pias.; 'Grand-
Hotel Hklouan (PI. a; A, B, 2), the proi>erty of the George Nungovich
Co. (p. 3o), opposit(! the casino, with garden and terrace, pens. 60-100,
motor-omn. 2 pias.; 'Hotel de.s I'.ains (PI. b, B 3; same proprietors),
near the Bath House, a quiet family hotel with veranda and garden, pens.
40-55 pias.; Hotel-Pension Hkltzel (PI. d; B, 2), open all the year ronnd,
pens. 45-5(1 pias.; Esiinsii Winter Hotel (ifi«.? Docid ; PI. e, B 2), with
garden, pens. 40-60 pias.; Hot.-Pens. * Villa Antonio (PI. g; B, 3), with
garden, pens. 40-50 pia.-^. ; H6t. Clakemont (PI. f; B, 3); Sphinx (PI. h ; B, 3),
open all the year round, pens, from 40 pias.; Villa Wanda (PI. i, B3;
'Uatsha Vanda'; Russian), pens. 10-15 fr., very fair. — Invalid cooking and
diet on request at any of the hotels or pensions. — Furnished Apartments
(previous arrangement necessary), fE 10-20 per month. — Csife. Cqf^-
168 Route 8. HELWAN.
Restaurant San Giovanni, on the Nile at Old Iletwan (p. 169), belonging to
the Hot. Al-IIayat (mutor-omn.).
Sanatoria. Frau Dr. Urbahn''s Sanatorium (PI. o; B, 3), pens, from iOs.
according to room, open from Nov. to May; Sanatorium Jisn (PI. 1, C2;
Dr. Glam); Dr. Preminger^s Zander Institute (PI. m; C, 2); Dr. Kuschnh's
(PI. q; B, 3), for kiduey-dise ^se-;.
Physicians. Dr. H. Overton Ilobson (medical saperintendent of the Balli
Ususej; Drs. /lerninger, Brodski, I'reminger (Germans); Dr. Qlanz (German
lluosian). — Ladt Dentist, Dr. Marie D. Olanz. — Dkugoists. New Anglu-
Oerman Dispensary, opposite the station; Anglo- Egyptian Fharmacy; Inter-
national Pharmacy.
Post & Telegraph Office (PI. P. O. ; B, 2).
Carriages at the station (fares according to tariff). — Donket, 5piaa.
per hr., 20 pias. per day.
Churches. St. Paulas (PI. A, 2), Rue Ch^rif Pacha, anglican services
at 8.30, 11, & 6 o'clock. — Roman Catholic Church (PI. B, 2), belonging to
the Missionaires de TAfriiiue Centrale. — German Lutheran Church (PI. C, 2).
— Greek Orthodox (PI. A, 2) and Greek Catholic Churches.
Golf Course (Pi. A, 1), laid out in the desert, with 18 holes, club-
house, and professional. There is also a Ladies^ Course, with 9 holes. —
Tennis Codrts at the Grand-Hotel (p. 167) and tlie Hotel Al-Hayat (p. 167).
— Driving, Riding, and Cycling are likewise favourite pursuits.
Coinp. 'Helouan, an Egyptian Health Resort', by H. Orerton Ilobson, M.D.
(1906). The visitor should provide himself also with Prof. G. SchweinfurVi s
map of the 'Environs of llelwau' ('Aufnahmen in der ostlichen Wuste von
iTigypten, Blatt V; scale l": 30,0J0).
JJelwdn, French Helouan -les- Bains, an artificial oasis in the
desert, 3 M. to the E. of the Nile and 115 ft. ahove the average
water level, is situated on a plateau enclosed by steep limestone
hills from N.W. to S.E. and has about 8000 inhabitants. Helwan
has hitherto had a very prosperous existence. This it owes partly
to its thermal springs, partly to its climate. The sulphur and saline
springs, which were made available for sanatory purposes in 1871-72,
have a temperature of 91" Fahr. and resemble those of Harrogate
and Aix-les-Bains Iti their ingredients. They are efficacious in
cases of rheumatism, lumbago, sciatica, neuritis, and gout. The dry
and warm climate is specially adapted for rheumatic and kidney
diseases, and for all cases in which cold and damp should be
avoided (comp. also p. xxii}. Between Nov. and Feb. rain falls for a
few hours only at Helwan, and the atmosphere is free from all per-
ceptible moisture. The mean temperature in winter is 61° 5' Fahr.,
with a daily range of 21° (51-72°). The amount of daily sunshine
averages 8 hrs. and the fall of temperature after sunset is very slight.
In consequence of the rocky soil and the powerful rays of the sun,
the air is extraordinarily pure, dustless, and bracing.
The Bath Establishment (Bains; PI. B, 3), in the Moorish style,
built by the Egyptian government in 1899 and rebuilt in 1911 by
the George Nungovich Co., the present lessees, is excellently equip-
ped. It contains immersion-baths with fresh and sulphur water,
electric baths, hot-air baths, vapour baths, etc. There are two swim-
ming baths with stilplniro-saline water, one (90 ft. long) for ladies
H EL WAN. 8. Route. 169
and one (12U It. long) for gentlemen. There are arrangements also
for massage and snn and air baths.
To the N.E. of Hehvan, on the plateau, stands the AslronomicaL ij'
Meteorological Observatory (PI. C, 1; adm. 3.30-5 on Wed. from
Oct. 1st to April 30th). Adjacent is the Reservoir.
.1^
^ a-^
boLQiT b
Square j._^
'brahim
■B .if. 4ii fc i; ^J- a^c hj^^
I/, e ^ A b d \.e I — -JE a^hx i
^h •^_
tiiitUiii:BiiuAar^ Square
^, i^ Isnuiil
t^^^^^l
'f^A\r^TTm;-
■Wifnei A Bsbes Lnpjig
llelwan is within easy reach of Cairo. Excursions may be made
to the gorge-like valleys of the desert and to Sakkara, while the
banks of the Nile afford good wild-fowl shooting. — I'leasant drives
(cair., p. 168) may be taken to the village of Old Helwan (comp.
PI. A, 3 ; Restaurant San Giovanni, p. 168), picturesquely situated
on the Nile, to the Frincesa's Garden at the chateau of the Khedive's
mother, and along the new road to Cairo.
170 RouUS WADI HOF.
The quarries of Ka'sara and Tura are reached from Helvrin in
1' .'; hr.'s <lonkeT-ride •, a guide and caniiles are necessary. These quarries,
which are still worked, yielded the fine white limestone used for the
outer coaling of pyramids and ma^tabas and other ancient buildinss down
to the Ptolemaic period. The stone is transporied to the hank of the
Xile by means of tramways, carts, camels, and mules. The .trabs of
the present day quarry the stone on the outside of the racky slopes
only, while the quarrymen of the Pharaohs penetrated int ■ the interior of
the mountain and excavated large chambers when they c^me to service-
able stone. The roofs are supported by pillars of rock. A few inscrip-
tiotts, recording the opening of new halls in the quarrie^s, some demotic
inscriptions, and reliefs iXinss Amenemhet, Amosis, Amenophis III., Kek-
tanebes) are still preserved. The Egyptians named these the quarries
of Eoyu (or T-royu). which the Greeks corrupted into Troja. while Strabo
relate^; that the village beside the quarried! was 'an ancient residence vf
captive Trojans who had followed Menelaus to Egypt and remained there'.
From Helwan an excur>i_in to the -Wadi Hof (oomr. PI. C, 1), with
its picmresqne scenery, curious fossils, and remsrkable desert-ve.g<et3tion,
which is finest after rain, may be made in i; day either by >-arri»ge
or by donkey «10piiks.). We ride or drive across; the plateau to' the X.E..
l^issing the ob.ierva-ory (p. 16?', and join the old caravan-rou-.e to Suee.
At the Steindorff Hill (shown on Sehweinfurihs n^ap) we descend into
the valley, the manifoM and picturesque windings of which we follow.
Visitors must quit their CArria^es before beginning the descent, but rejoin
them at ihe end of the valley, whence they drive lack t Helwan. To
the right- at the beginning of the descent, are some ancient Egyptian
Quarri^. The places where the hr.ts of the labourers stood are easily
recognizable. To the left, on the rock, is a partly effaced figure of a king'.
Another very pleasant excursi n may be made "o the Widi Bisheid,
which lies to the S.E. of Helwan (to the end of the valley l>Shr5.; guide,
water, and provisi- ns necessary . The valley c nirac s un;il it finally
becomes a very picturesque go-ge. at the ei.d of which several pools known
K> the Beduins rise in sta.es one above the other.
About 7 M. to the S.E. of Helwan is the "Wadi Gerrani, a desert ravine
running E. and W. between abrupt lime.'^tOTie cliffs. Prof. Schweinfnrth
discovered here the remains of a large Pom of masonry, rrobably erected
under the E;orly Empire t<> arrest the water dowing down the ravine in
rainy winters and so tK> provide drinking-water for the workmen employed
in the slabaster quarries, 2'/i M. to the E. It consists of an embankment.
33 ft. high. 300-200 il. long, snd 150 ft. thick, stretching across the rarine,
and constructed of solid masonry faced with limestone slabs on the E. side.
Remains of the stone huts of the workmen were found close by.
The excursion from Helwan to Sdtldra takes a whole day. We ride
to Old Helwan and thence ferry across the ITile to Be^drofhein. TraTCllers
are carried ashore on the backs of the Arabs. Thence, see p. 143. Don-
kevs can le hired at Bedrashein.
9. From Cairo to Mansnra via Belbeis and Zakazik.
92 M. Kailwat in 4-4S ^iirj.; four ;r.iin? daily .fares 1st d. do. ih>d d.
32 pias.X — The route via Tanta (comp. pp. 34, 33, 174, IToi is shorter and
pleasanter.
From Cairo to [^^'-2 M.") J^aiJ/w^, see p. 34. — Beyond Kalyub the
main line to Alexandria ^^K. 31 diverges to the left. Out train turns
towards the N.E. and traverses a feiriie district. — 13* j M. Na'xa.
— QOM. Shibm el-Kcinaiir (Chibine fJ- Kanater. Shelin d-Qanaier).
a district-capital, connected with Cairo .^Iso l>y the branch-line men-
tioned on p. 1'20.
ZAKA^IK. ». fioute. 171
Aliimt 1'/; II. to the S.E. of Shibin cl-Kanulir is the ruined site of
Tall el-Yehiidiyeh (Uillof the Jews), the ancient Leontonpoli*. Ramscs 111.
erected a temple here, covered with glazed mosaic tiles, most of which
are now in the Cairo Mtiseam. Their tolourins is produced partly by
variations in the glazing and partly by the use of separate inlaid pieces
of glass. At a later date (170 B.C.) a Jewish high -priest named Onias,
aided by Ptolemy Philometor. erected a temple after the model of the
Temple of .Solomon for his countrymen who had been expelled from
Jerosalem by the .Syrian party. A visit to the ruins scarcely repays the
trouble, as most of them are auain buried in rubbish.
Light Railwats ran from Shibin to the X.W. to TOkfi (p. 34) and Beltdn
fp. 173>, and to the 8. to Kvfr IJamza.
29 M. Inshas. — 36 M. Tielhtis lies on the old caravan road
from Cairo to the East.
Light Eauwats feom Bklbeis: 1. To Mina el-Kamh (p. 181). — 2. To
Abu Hamm&d (p. 181) and Ahu Kebir (p. 172).
"We now approach the Fresh Water Canal (p. 180). — Beyond
(41 '/2 M) Burdein we cross the F.jkus Canal (f. 172). To the right,
short of Zakazjk, appear the mins of Buhastis (see below).
48 M. Zakazik (Buffet). The other .station, on the line from Benha
to Isma'iliTeh, is reached by a subway. — Hotels. SOUl Bot/al, Eden
Palace., H6t. des Vovageurt, tliree modest inns in the main street.
Bbitish Cossulak Agest, G. Diacono. — Basks. National Bank of Egypt;
Anglo- Egyptian Bank; Baitque cTADtinu.
Seevices at the cha^iel of xht Ainei-ican Ifittion (see below); al.^o angli-
can services once monthly.
Zakaz'ik (Zaqatii) or Zagatiij, the capital of the province of Shar-
klyeJi and the seat of a mudir, is a thriving, semi-European town,
with (1911) 40,000 inhabitant*. Its situation on the Muwls (Muweis
or Moez) Canol (the ancient Tanitic arm of the Nile, from which
the Mashldt Canal here diverges to the N.), in the midst of a fertile
district, is extremely favourable and has largely contributed to the
prosperity of the town, which is the chief centre of the Egyptian
cotton and grain trade. Many European merchants have offices here,
and the large cotton factories give parts of the town an almost Euro-
pean appearance. The American Mission maintains a girU' school
here. A market is held every Tuesday.
Light Railways fkom ZakazIk : 1. To Sinbeldain fp. 172). — 2. To
ifU Gftamr (p. 174) via KatUiydt'(El-'Qanaiat ; p. 172) and Sahragl (p. 173).
About iVi M. to the S.E. ol Zakazik, on the Tell Bhtta, lie the ruins
of the ancient Bubastis I Egyptian Per-Batle; ibe Pi-hutth ol tzekiel ,xxx. 17j,
the capital of the Bubastite nome. Some of the remains of the brick
walls of the houses are of considerable height. The temple of Bastet, the
patron-goddess of the town, at the S.W. foot of the hill, was excavated
in 1887-89 by Xaville, at the expense of the Egypt Exploration Fund;
but the remains (granite bb<ck.=, columns, architraves, etc., some with
inscriptions, and a few statues) are in too mimms a state to repay a
visit. The temple, begun by the pyramid-builders Kheops and Khephren,
underwent frequent alterations at the hands of Ramsi-s 11. and other later
kings, but owed its final form to the monarchs of the 22nd Dyn., who
resided at Bubasti;!. and to Xeklancbes (Kekht-IIar-ehbet). At this period
it consisted of four large halls, of an aggregate length nf ©Xlft.; and
in these were celebrated the joyous and licentious festivals in honour of
Bastet. -When the Egyptians travel to Bubastis'. says Herodotus, 'they
do so in this manner. Men and women sail together, and in each boat
t!i>-re are many persons of both sexes. Some of the women make a noise
172 Route .9. T^NIS. From Cairo
with rattles, and some of the men blow pipes during the whole journey,
while the other men and women sing and clap their hands. If they pass
a, town on the way, they lay to, and some of the women land and shout
and mock at the women of the place, while others dance and make a
disturbance. They do this at every town that lies on the Nile; and when
they arrive at Bubastis they begin the festival with great sacriQces, and
on this occasion more wine is consumed than during the whole of the rest
of the year. The natives assert that men and women to the number of
700,000, besides children, make the annual pilgrimage hither.'
Beyond Zakazik we cross the line to Isma'iliyeh and Port Sa'id
and follow the E. hank of the M\iwis Canal. The country is fertile.
56 M. Hehiyeh {Hehia; to IhrdJumtyeh, see belovs').
G2 M. Abu Kebir is a village -with 8605 inhabitants.
From Abu Kebir a narrow-gauge line runs to the E. via (8V2 M.)
FaUs (Faqus) to (2OV2 M.j Es-SdHMpeh (El-Salhia). — To the N. of Fakiis,
near the hamlet of Ahataana, are the ruins of a large town; buildings
dating from the time of the 12th Dyn. and of the Ramessides have been
discovered here by Naville. About 2V4 M. to the N. of Khataana, near
the village of Kaniir, stood a temple built by Ramses II.
Light Railways from Aed Kehir. 1. \'ia Horbeit {Ehorbela, the an-
cient }'harbaeihus, chief seat of the worship of Ilar-merti), on the Sddi
Canal, Ibrdhtmiyeh {Ibrahimia; branch to Hehiyeh, see above), Diarb-Negrn
(see below), and Fumm es-Safuriyeh (p. 173) to Mil Ohamr (p. 174). — 2. Via
Ahu Ilammdd (see pp. 171, 181) to Belbeis (p. 171).
Beyond Ahu Kebir the line turns to the N.W. and crosses the
Sadi Canal and a number of smaller canals. — 661/2 M. El-Buha.
From El-Buha bridle-paths lei'd along both banks of the Masraf Sun
el-Hagar, a drainage canal about 26 M. long, to the N.E. to the Sdn'e.l-Hciyar
Canal, tlie continuation of the Fdk-fis Canal. About 3 M. to the' N. oftheir
confluence, on the Bahr el-Mashra^, lies the fishing- village of Sdn el-Hagar,
with the ruins ot the. ancient Tanis (Egypt. Zanet; the Zan or Zoan'oi the
Bible). The temple of the patron-god Seth, built by Ramses II., partly
with the material of earlier structures, is now represented by a confused
heap of ruins and hardly repays a visit, as most of the larger monuments
have been transferred ti) the Cairo Museum (p. 86).
About 8 M. to theS.E. of Tanis, and9iM. to the N.W. of Es-Salihiyeh (see
abovel, lie the mounds of debris known as Nebeslieh, the ancient Egyptian
i'emet. These were excavated in 1SS6, at the instance of the Egypt Ex-
idoration Fund, by Prof. Flinders Pelrie, who discovered the remains of
a temple, built by Ramses II. with the aid of older monuments, and a
sanctuary (if the town-goddess Buto, founded by Amasis. In the cemetery,
among the Egyptian tomibs of the 19th Dynasty and later, were found the
graves of Cyprian mercenaries stationed here under Amasis.
68 M. Kafr Sakr, a district-capital with 2108 inhabitants. —
701/.2 M. Abu Shekik (Ahu el-Shequq).
791/2 M. Sinbeliinnn (SimbeUaouein, Simbellawein).
About 7^/zM.. to the N.E. of the station, on eitlier side of the village
of Tmei el-Amdtd (road to Man.sura, see p. 174) and a canal, rise two mounds
of ruins. That to the S. , the Tell ihn ex-Saldm, is Roman and perhaps
marks the site of the ancient Thmuis. That to the N., the Tell Roba or
Tell el-Kasr, was kniivrn in the middle ages as El-Mondnl and contains the
ruins of the ancient Mendes. A shrine dedicated in tlie temple by Amasis
and coffins of sacred rams, which were revered in Mendes, still exist.
Light Railways from SinbelawIn. 1. Via Diarb-Negm (see above
and Kandydt (p. 171) to Zaidzik (p. 171). — 2. Via Aga (p. 173) to Mi
SamanHd, on the E. t)ank of the Damietta arm of the Nile (on the W. bank
lies SamanHd, p. 174). — 3. To Fumm el-Buhiyeh Ip. 173), where the Buhiyek
Canal diverges from the Damietta arm. Thence to Mil Ghamr, see p. 173.
to Mansura. MANSURA. 9. Route. 173
85 M. Bakltyeh (Baqlia), with the remains of the ancient Hermu-
poUs (Egypt." Ba/i ; comp. p. 209). — 88 M. Shdweh (Choua, Skua).
9*2 M. Manstlra. — Hotels. Cangiarri't Hotel, Rue de TEglise Latine,
[.ens. 40-50 pia3.;'//i;<. de la Bourse, facing the Jfile, R. 10 pias. ; Royal Hotel,
in the New Street; Udl. Khidivial, opposite the post-office. — Kestadrants.
CangiarrVs (see above); Des Pyramides, near the Hot. de la Bourse.
Post Office, near the Police Station. — Banks. National Bank of
I'yypt, Anglo- Egyptian Bank, Cvidit Lyonnais , all near the post-office;
fieuttche Orientbank, in the Old Street. — Thf.atre, near the post-office.
British Consular Agent. F. T. Murdoch. — Lloyd's Agent, James
Macvey.
Services in English ave held during winter by the chaplain of the
Delta Chaplaincy and by the American Mission.
MansHra { Mansourah), a thriving town with (1907) 40,279 inhah.
and numerous new houses in the European style, is the capital of
the province of Dakahllyeh and lies on the right hank of the ancient
Phatnitic arm of the Nile, now the Damietta branch, from which di-
verges the Bahr es-Sughaiijar (El-Bohr et-Saghir), a canal emptying
into Lake Menzaleh. On the opposite bank of the river lies Talkha
(p. 176). Mansfira is an emporium for the cotton and other products
of Lower Egypt.
HisTOKT. Man.sura (i.e. 'the victorious') was founded by Sultan Malik
el-Kamil (p. cxvii) in 1221, as an advantageous substitute fur Damietta (comp.
p. 176). The first serious attack made on JIansura was by the Crusaders
under Louis IX. of France in 1249. After encountering great difficulties they
succeeded in crossing the Ushuium Canal (the present Bahr es-Sughaiyar),
but in the neighbourhood of JIansura they were defeated by the young
Sultan El-JIo'azzam Turanshah. Their fleet was destroyed and 'famine-
lever' broke out. When the ill-fated Crusaders attempted to escape they
were intercepted by the Turks, who thinned their ranks terribly and
captured the king (April, 1250). On May 6th, 1250, Louis was released on
payment of a heavy ransom and on surrendering Damietta.
The town is regularly laid out and the crowded Arab quarter is
gradually disappearing before modern streets. The main street
runs to the W. from the railway station to the Nile. In a square
near the police-station is the unassuming mosque of El-Muwafik.
An unfounded tradition points out an old house of Saladiu's time,
close by, ^s the prison of Louis IX. (see above and p. cxvii). — In
the quarter between the main street and the Nile are the consulates,
the former Palace of the Khedive, a large and unattractive building,
now used as a mixed tribunal, and the small mosque oi Sanga. The
last contains columns brought from older edifices, with Byzantine
capitals of Corinthian tendency, bearing Saracenic arches. The
minbar (pulpit) and ceiling are still embellished with remains of
line wood-carving, which was originally painted.
Railway to Damietta and Tanla, see R. 10.
Light Railways from MansCra. 1. To Benha (p. 34), via Aga (p. 172),
Ftimm el-Buhtyeh (p. 172), MU Ghamr (p. 174), Fumm es-Safurtyeh (p. 172),
and Sahragt (7000 inhab.; branch-lines to Zakdzik, p. 171, and to Mina el-
Kumi}, p. 181). From Benha the line goes on via"5ci'd« (p. 171) to the Bar-
rag e'du Nil (p. 121). — 2. To Maldriyeh. This line runs along the right bank
of the Bahr es-Sughaiyar (see above). The intervening stations are Mehal-
Baedeker's Egypt. 7th Edit. 12
174 Route 10. MEHALLEH EL-KUBRA.
let Damana (also connected with Dekernes by a loop-line via Mil 'AH), Mil
Ddfer, Dekernes (5000 inhab. ; branch-line to Mehallel Ingdk or Mehallel Inshaq,
on the E. bank of the Damietta Arm, opposite S/iirbin, p. 175), AshmiXn
er-Rummdn (2500 inhab.), Hit Salsil (3500 inbab.), and Menzaleh (a village
with fully 10,000 inhab.). Matariyeh (Malaria) is a village with 15,0()0 inhab.,
situated on a peninsula in Lake Menzaleh (p. 185). Adjoining the station
is the d^pot of two German firms occupied in exporting eels from the
lake. — Sdn el-Hagar [Tanis; p. 172) is conveniently visited from Matari-
yeh by boat. — For the steamer to Damietta and Port Sa'td, see p. 179.
Road (carr. 60-70 pias.) from Man.sura to Tmei el - Amdid (Thmnis ;
Mendes), see p. 172. — Excursion to Behbit el-Hagar via Mil 'Assas, see below.
10. From Tanta to Damietta via Mansura.
74 M. Railway in 3V2-33/4 brs. (1st cl. fare 54 pias.).
Tanta, see p. 33. — 5 M. Ragdlyeh. — 8'/2 M. Mehallet RUh
(Mehallet Roh) is the junction for Mit Ghamr (see below) and for
Desiik and Damanhur (see p. 32).
Fkom Mehallet RCh to Mit Ghamr, 20 M., narrow-gauge line in
l-l'/4 hr. (fare 16 pias.). Stations: Korashiijeh (Qorashia), Gemmeizeh ( Guem-
mezeh), ,Sonta (Santah). — 18'/2 M.' Zifteh (Zi/ta), a town with 15,850 in-
hab., which lies on the left bank of the Damietta arm. Light railway
to Birket es-Saba'' (see below). About 2 M. lower down, reached in
5 minutes by the light railway to Melialleh cl-Kubra (see below), lies the
Zifteh Barrage^ constructed in 1903 and containing 50 sluices, each 16 ft.
in width. This construction resembles the Assiut Barrage (p. 232) and is
intended to collect water for the canals of the E. provinces (Gharbiyeh
and Dakahliyeh), which were formerly supplied from the barrage-works at
Kalyub (p. 122). — Beyond Zifteh the railway crosses the Damietta arm to
('20 M.) Mit Ghamr, a town on the right bank, with about 12,000 inhabitants.
About G 31. to the S., in one of the most beautiful parts of the Delta, is
the Tell Mokdam, with a ruined temple of Osorkon II., perhaps on the site
of the Leontonpolis of Strabo. Light railways run from Mit Ghamr to Man-
sura and the Barrage du Nil (see p. 173); to Sinbelawin (p. 172); and to
Abu Kebir (p. 172).
171/2 M. Mehalleh el-Kubra (Mehalleh KeMr), a district-capital
with 33,547 inhab., has numerous European houses, cotton cleaning
and weaving mills, and an interesting old synagogue.
Light Railways. 1. To Baliim, on Lake Burlus (p. 177), running to
the N. of the main line via Kafr Sdrem, Tireh (Tira; branch to Talkha,
p. 175, via Nabaroh), Biydla (p. 17,5), and Hamovl Barari. — 2. To Birket
es-Saba' (p. 33), running to the N.E. to Ka/r Sdrem, then to the S. via
Samandd (see below), Sonhdt (a village with 5645 inhab., on the Damietta
arm), Zifteh Barrage, and Zifteh (see above). — 3. To Tanta via Shin see
p. 33), — 4. To fania via Kotjlr (see p. 33).
20 M. Rahbein (Rahabein). — 22 M. Samanud, a village with
14,408 inhab., beside the scanty ruins of the ancient Sebennytos
(Egypt. Zeb-nuter, Copt. Jemnuti), the birthplace of Manetho
(p. xcviii), is situated on the Damietta arm of the Nile and is a
station on the light railway from Mehalleh el-Kubra via Zifteh to
Birket es-Saba' (see above). On the opposite (right) bank is MU
Samanud (p. 172). — 26 M. MU 'Assas.
Proceeding to the N. from the station of Mit 'Assas for 10 min. along
the canal, then turning to the left, we reach the ('/4 hr.) ruin.s of Behbit
el-Hagar (Bihbtl el-ffigdra), the ancient Iseum or Isidis Oppidum of the
Romans. The Egyptian name of the place was Hebet or Per-ehbit, or 'House
DAMTETTA. 10, Route. 175
of tlie god of Hebet' (i.e. Horns), of whicli the modern name is a onrrup-
tioii. Isis, as wpU as Horus and Osiris, was worshipped here. Within
a still partly extant girdle-wall of unlmrnt brick, used liy the AraliS as
a place of burial, rises a large heap of ruins, which t'orin the remains
of the once niajinificent Temple op Isis, huilt by Ncktanebes {30th Byn.)
and Ptolemy II. Philadelphns. The ruins form a most picturesque mass of
fragments, altogether about 100 paces in circumference. The structure con-
sisted entirely of granite, chietly grey but partly red in colour, brought
hither from a great distance.
The reliefs all date from the time of Ptolemy 11. The position of one
of them enables us to identify the ancient sanctuary. In this relief the
king appears offering incense before the sacred bark of Isis, which is
here shown in a form hitherto found only in bronzes: the cabin resembles
a house of two stories; above, the goddess, with the cows' horns and the
sun's disk, is enthroned on a lotus-flower, guarded on each side by a
winged goddess. On the W. side of the ruing, near the ancient entrance,
is an interesting large slab of grey granite, veined with red, on which is
represented the king offering a gift of land to Osiris and Isis. On the N.
side lies an unusually large Hathor capital, in granite. Numerous remains
of pillars, architraves, friezes with heads of Hathor, and waterspouts in
the shape of recumbent lions also slill exist. A little farther on the re-
mains of a staircase built in the walls may be observed.
The sacred lake of the temple still exists near the village of Behbil,
to the N.W. of the ruins.
32 M. Talkha is tlie junction for the light railway to Tireh
(p. 1741. — The train crosses the Damietta arm, by means of a
handsome bridge, to (34 M.) Manslira (p. 173).
On leaving Mansura the train recrosses the liver to the left
bank, which it follows to Damietta. The land is carefully cultivated,
and we observe a number of steam-engines used for the irrigation of
tlie soil. — 42 M. Batra.
481/2 M. ShirMn (Cherhine), a district-capital with 8500 inhabi-
tants. Opposite, on the right bank of the Damietta arm, is Mehallet
Ingulc (p. 174).
Fkom SiiiRBiN TO Kalin, 50 M., branch-railway in ca. 3 or 4 hrs. —
Beyond (51/2 M.) Basandileh the line crosses the Bahr Shibiii (p. 34; here
called also Saljr Basandileh) and beyond the stations of Belkas {Belqas ;
25,473 inhab.) and IHydla (Biela, Biala; p. 174) the BaJjr Tireh. Stations:
38 M. Kafr esh- Sheikh (6702 inhab.), connected by a light railway also
with Tanta (p. 33) and Sidi Salem (p. 33); Nashart. — 50 31. Kalin (p. 32).
55 M. Ran el-Khaltg. — 66 M. Fdreskdr (Farascour); the town
lies on the right bank of the Damietta arm. Lake Menzaleh (p. 185)
is seen to the E. — 70 M. Kafr el-Battlkh lies in a sandy plain,
extending as far as Lake Burlus and covered in summer with crops
of water-melons (large melon -market in July). — The station of
(74 M.) Damietta lies on the left bank of the arm of the Nile (ferry
to the upper landing-place in l/4hr. j 3 pias.).
Damietta. — Hotels. E0lel Continental, at the upper landing-place, R.
12 pias. (bargain advisable), plain; H6t. Egyptien, also on the river, good.
Post Ofi'ioe and Telkgraimi Ofpicb.
Damietta.^ Arabic Dumydt, situated between the Damietta branch
of the Nile and Lake jMenzaleh (p. 185), about 7V2 ^^- ^"^om. the
sea, is a district-capital with 29,354 inhab. (few Europeans). The
trade is chiefly in the hands of native merchants (Arabs and
12*
176 Route 10. DAMIETTA.
Levantines). The industries to wliicli the town owed its former
prosperity still exist to some extent. There are, for instance, several
cotton mills and silk factories, the latter of which produce the hlack
silk of the 'habara' worn by Moslem women (comp. p. 47).
IIisTOitr. Little or nothing is known of the early history of Damietta.
During the Arahian era Damietta attained a great reputation on account
of the resistance it offered to the Crusaders ; but the town of that period
stood farther to the N. than its modern successor (see below). In 1218 it
was besieged by King John of Jerusalem. With the aid of an ingenious
double boat, constructed and fortified in accordance with a design by
Oliverius, an engineer of Cologne, the Frisians, Germans, and others
of the besiegers succeeded after a fight of twenty-five hours in capturing
the tower to which the chain stretched across the river was attached.
The success of the Christians was, however, considerably marred by the
interference of the ambitious though energetic Pelagius Galvani^ the
papal legate, and by the vigilance of the Egyptian sultan Malik el-Kamil.
At length, after various vicissitudes, the Christians captured the place.
They obtained valuable spoil, sold the surviving townspeople as slaves,
and converted the mosques into churches, but in 1221 they were compelled
by a treaty to evacuate the town. In 1249, when Louis IX. landed near
Damietta, it was abandoned by its inhabitants. Without striking a blow
the Crusaders marched into the deserted streets of the fortress, but in the
course of the following year they were obliged to restore it to the Saracens
as part of the ransom of Louis IX., who had been taken prisoner at Mansura
(p. 173). During the same year, by a resolution of the Emirs, the town was
destroyed, and was re-erected on the E. bank of the river, farther to the S.
The new town soon became an important manufacturing and commer-
cial place. Its staple products were leather-wares, cloth, and oil of sesame,
for which it was famous, and its harbour was visited by ships of many
different nations. Owing to the construction of the Mahmudiyeh Canal
Damietta lost most of its trade, which, however, is now on the increase,
chiefly owing to the export of fish (especially eels) from Lake Menzaleh
(p. 185).
Seen from the railway station Damietta still presents an im-
posing appearance, with its lofty houses flanking the river; but this
by no means corresponds with the interior of the town, where the
buildings are mostly humble brick erections. The European quar-
ter lies upstream, with the spacious Government Hospital and the
Coastguards' Barracks. Here is also the principal Mosque (Garni'
el-Bahr), with two lofty minarets and a spacious dome. Connected
with it is a university (223 students, 46 professors). In the vicinity
are a Roman Catholic and a Greek church. Close to the river stands
the mosque of El-Matbultyeh, founded by Sultan Kait Bey in 1475
along with its institute (Ashrafiyeh). The principal street, upwards
of 1 M. long, forms the busy bazaar of the town. Many of the houses
are provided with handsomely carved wooden jutties and lattice-
work, which are in most cases very ancient and differ materially
in style from the mashrabiyehs of Cairo.
To the N. of the town, in the suburb of El-Gebdneh, is the
dilapidated mosque of Abu'l Ma'dteh. The building appears to date
from the period of the old town of Damietta and has Cuflc inscrip-
tions in front. The interior contains numerous antique columns,
two of which, standing on the same base, offer a test of honesty,
like those in the Mosque of Amr at Cairo (p. 110). Another column
WagnerJt Dp'bes.I.fij
PORT SAID. 11. Route. 177
in the same row is licked by sufferers in the liope of cure. The
miuaret is embellished -with early-Arabian ornamentation.
A trip by boat down to the Mouth of the Nile (Boghdz) takes
;i-3V2 l"rs. or, if the -wind is favourable, I1/2 l"". only (fare there
and back 20 pias.). During the summer months steamers ply to
(I hr.) the Rds el-Bahr, a peninsula jutting out between the Nile
and the sea, visited for sea-bathing by both Europeans and Egypt-
ians. Dolphins are often seen in the river near its mouth.
From Damiktta to Port SaId via Lake Menzaleb (8 lira.), see p. 179.
Tlic boats start from the fishins-village of Oheit en-JVasdra, 2 M. to the E.
of Damietta (carr. in 20 min., 6-8 pias.). — From Damietta to Eosetta
(p. 30) via Lake Burins (Borollos), a ronte which is not recommended,
takes 2-3 days at least and sometimes much longer.
11. From Port Sa'id to Cairo or Suez via Isma'^iliyeh,
Uailwat to Ismd'iliych, 48 M., iu ^.^fi-P|^ hr. (1st cl. faro 37 pias.); (o
Cairo, 148 M., express in 4-41/4, ordinary train in ca. 4^4 hrs. (fare 96 pias.) ;
to Suez (Rue Colmar), 104>/2 M., in 31/2-43/4 hrs. (fare 74 pias.). Dining-cars
arc attached to the express trains between Isma'iliyeh and Cairo.
Port Said.
Arrival by Sea. The entrance of the harbour, marked by buoys, is
•/a M. wide. To the right, near the S. end of the W. mole, is the Lesseps
Monument (p. 178). — The Custom House examination takes place on
shore. As the steamer does not berth at the pier, the passengers have to
disembark at the custom-house (Douane ; PI. 8) by small boats {i.^h-V/2 pias.
each pers. ; trunk 2, hand-luggage 1 pias.). The agents of Cook, Clark,
and the Hamburg-American and North German Lloyd lines will, for a
small fee, relieve travellers of all trouble connected with the landing and
examination of their luggage.
Kailway Station ('Gare' on PI.), 1/2 M. to the W. of the custom-house.
Hotels. 'Eastern Exchange (P). a), Rue Sultan Osman, with 100 rooms,
liaths, lifts, and garden, pens. IS-ISs.; 'Savoy Hotel (PI. d), cor. Quai
Francois-Joseph and Rue el-Tegara (Rue du Commerce), with 63 rooms,
restaurant, and bar, pens. 62-62 pias. •, IIotei, Continental (PI. b). Rue
el-Tegara, with 56 rooms, pens. 50 pias.; Casino Palace Hotel (PI. c),
beside the Jetee Quest (p. 178), with 45 rooms, bathing-establishment, and
garden, pens. 50-70 pias.; Hotel de la Poste (PI. cl, Rue du Nil.
Cabs. Per drive 2^/2 pias., to the railway station 4, to Er-Rajwa
(steamboat-station on Lake Menzaleb, p. 185) 6 pias.; per hour 10 pias.
Tramway from the harbour through the town and the Arab quarter
to the cemetery (p. 178); and from the Greek Church to the railway
station and Er-Raswa (see above).
Physicid.ns. Dr. Cuffey , physician to the Lady Strangfovd Hospital
(British); Dr. ffayward, medical officer of the Egyptian Government Hospi-
tal; Dr. Wigham; Dr. Cassola. — Dentist, Dr. Stampfl (German).
Banks. National Bank of Egypt., Anglo- Egyptian Bank., Cvidit LyonnaU,
Comptoir National d^Escompte de Paris, all in the Rue du Nil; Banque Otto-
mane, Bassin du Commerce; Deutsche Orientbank, Boulevard Euge'nie. —
English and French money, including the copper coins, and Greek silver
are current at Port Sa'id.
Post Offices. Egyptian (PI. 14), Rue du Nil; French (PI. 16), Boulevard
Eugenie. — Telegraph Offices. Egyptian (PI. 19), Rue el-Tegara; Eastern
Telegraph Co. (PI. 18), Quai Francois-Joseph, for Europe.
Consuls. British (PI. 3), E' C. Blech (consul-general), Place Abbas;
nSltoutell. PORT SAID. From Port Sa'U
vice-consul, R. E. W. Chafy. — American (PI. 2), Brisiow (consular a!;eat),
Quai Francois-Joseph. Also French, German, and other consular officers.
Shops of all kinds abound, but the so-called 'oriental goods' are usually
manufactured in Europe and are sold at high prices. Chinese and Japan-
ese articles, etc. (bargaining necessary): Fioravanti d- C'himem; G. C. Saro-
lides; and at the Micado.
Tourist Agents. Thos. Cook tt Son, Quai Francois-Joseph ; F, C. Clark,
Savoy Hotel (p. 177) •, Hamburg- American Line, Rue du Nil. — Lloid's
Agents, L. Savon Jt Co.
Steamship Offices of all the large companies on the Quai Francois-
Joseph (cump. the Plan). Steamboat connection with Kurope, see R. 1.
Church Services. Anglican, at the Church of Vie Epiphanij ('Eglise angl.''
on Plan), Rue el-Tegara, every Sun. at 8 a.m., 10.30a.m., and 6p.m. ■ —
Roman Catholic, at the Church of Sle. Evghiie ('Eglise cath. rom.' on Plan).
Port Sa'td, or Port Said, the chief town of the Egyptian goYeru-
orate of the same name, lies at the E. extremity of an island which
helongs to the narrow strip of land separating Lake Menzaleh from
the Mediterranean. It owes its origin to the Suez Canal, and its
prosperity during recent years lias been marked. The population,
which in 1883 was only 17,000, was estimated at the end of 1911
at 55,400, including ahout 11,000 foreigners.
The Harbour occupies an area of about 570 acres and has been
excavated to a depth of 32 ft. by means of laborious dredging. It is
protected by two massive piers: the eastern (Jetee Est), running out
into the sea towards the N. for I1/4 M,, and the western (Jetee
Quest), running towards the N.E. for IY2 M., now being consider-
ably lengthened and intended to protect the harbour from the
mud-deposits of the Nile (comp. p. 12). On the landward end of
the W. pier and opposite the inner harbour pier {Digue Nouvelle,
550 yds. in length) rises the *Lighthouse (Phare), constructed of
concrete, 174 ft. in height, and one of the largest in the world. Its
electric lights are visible to a distance of 24 M. About 300 yds. to
the N. of it, on the pier, is a statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps (p. 183),
by E. Fremiet, unveiled by the Suez Canal Co. in 1899, thirty
years after the opening of the Suez Canal, his great achievement.
The statue, 221/2 ft. high, stands on a pedestal 341/2 ft. in height.
The Inner Harbour (220 acres) includes the Bassin Isma'il and
three adjoining sheltered basins, viz. the commercial harbour (Bas-
sin du Commerce) and the arsenal harbour (Bassin de I' Arsenal), on
each side of the handsome buildings of the Canal Co., and the
Bassin Cherif. The last is flanked with fine buildings erected by
Prince Henry of the Netherlands as a factory for the Dutch trade,
but now used by the British government as a Marconi station (PI. 9).
Beyond these lie the coal-harbour (Bassin des Chalands Charbon-
niers), the Bassin Abbas Hilmi or Bassin d'Afrique, and the new
petroleum harbour (Bassin d, Petrole).
A visit may be paid to the interesting Salt Works on the E. side
of the harbour (apply to the manager), where salt is evaporated in
large pans. The salt which is exported is of great purity.
to Cairo. ISMI'IlIyEH. 11. Route. 179
The Arab Quarter and the Cemetery lie to the W. (tramway,
p. 177). The tombs are constructed in the form of vaults of masonry
above ground, as the soil is saturated with salt water at a depth of
li/o ft. below the surface.
Steamers of the Menzaleh Canal and Navigation Co. ply regularly across
Lake Menzaleh (p. 185) from Er-Raswa (p. 185 ; tramway, p. 177) to Matdriyeh
(p. 174; in connection with the train to Mansilra) and (9 hrs. ; fare 20 pias.)
Damietla (p. 175; provisions should be taken).
The Railway from Pout Sa'id to Oaiko at tirst skirts the W.
bank of the Suez Canal (comp. R. 12); to the right lies Lake
Menzaleh (p. 185). — 81/2 M. Ras el-'Eiah (p. 185); 15 M. Tineh;
23 M. Le Cap. Beyond (28 M.) El-Kantara (p. 185) the train runs
along an embankment through Lake Balah (p. 186). SSl/o M,
Balah (Ballafi). — Beyond (40 M.) El-Ferddn (p. 186) we leave
the Suez Canal and turn towards the S.W.
48 M. Ismi'lliyeh (Buffet). — Hotel. H6tel- Restaurant des Voyageiirs^
near the station.
Post Office, Place Champollion, near the station. — Egxptian Tele-
GUAPH Office, beside the station. — Toukist Agents: Thos. Cook & Son.
Phtsician : Dr. Cambouillon, at the Hospital of the Suez Canal Co. —
Chemist: Pharmacie Internationale, Rue Negrelli. — Roman Catholic and
Greek Orthodox Churches.
Ismd'Ulyeh (Isma'ilia), situated on the N. bank of Lake Timsdh
(p. 186), was the main centre of operations during the construction
of the Suez Canal, but has to a large degree lost its importance. It
has a governor of its own and contains 10,373 inhabitants. The
pretty gardens and plantations and the view of the blue lake lend the
town the appearance of an oasis, with both European and Arabian
cultivation. — The Avenue de I'Imperatrice and the Avenue Guichard
lead from the station to the shore of Lake Timsah (station of the
steam-launches). Thence we may follow the Rue de Chancel and
the Rue d'ltalie to the left to the Place Champollion, beyond which
the Rue Negrelli, the main street of the town, runs to the E. to the
former Palace of the Khedive. In the public park beside the last
several monuments found at Pithom (p. 180) and on the Suez Canal
are preserved.
Group of Ramses II. seated between the yods Re ;ind Atum; memorial
stone of Kamses II., with sculptures and inscriptions ; recumbent lion with
human head, dedicated by Ramses II. to Atum; naos with the figure of a
similar lion (sphinx I, dedicated by Ramses II. in the temple of Pithom;
granite nao, from El-'Arish with inscriptions referring to the rule of the
gods upon earth.
The Quai Mehemet runs to the E. along the canal to the water-
works. The shaded RueLamasson (benches), diverging to the right,
leads past the influx of the canal into Lake Timsah to (1^/4 M.)
the Canal Co.'s Hospital and a chateau of the Khedive (carr. there
and back 15-20 pias. , donkey 5 pias.). The hill of El-Gisr (p. 186)
may be ascended hence (ca. 1 hr.'s ride).
180 lioiUe 11. ISMAILIYEU. From Port Sa'id
On quitting Isma'iliyeli, we obtain another glimpse of the azure
waters of Lake Timsah. At (Sl^/o M.) Nefisheh, the first station, the
railway to Suez diverges to the left [see p. 181). The line to Cairo
traverses the Arabian Desert, which is intersected from E. to W.
by the Wddi Tdmildt, and skirts the Fresh Water or Ismd'Uiyeh
Canal. The fertile tract which we now traverse is part of the Ooshen
of the Bible. During the Turkish re'gime it fell into a miserable
condition, and at the beginning of the 19th century afforded a very
scanty subsistence to barely 4000 Arabs; but the cultivation was
so rapidly improved by means of the fresh- water canal that it
now supports upwards of 12,000 prosperous farmers and peasants.
Beyond the canal, on the left, is a fertile strip, behind which rise
the desert hills.
The Fresh "Water or Isma'Uiyeh Canal, constructed in 1858-63 to
supply the villages on the Suez Canal with drinking-water and enlarged in
187(3, is in great part a restoration of an earlier canal dating from the
Middle Empire. This ancient canal, which began at the Nile, watered the
land of Goshen with its branches, and entering the Bitter Lakes (p. 186),
changed their character, according to Strabo, and connected them with
the Red Sea. The channel of the old canal, which was re -discovered
by the French expedition of 1798, is still traceable at places, and its
direction has frequently been followed by the engineers of M. de Lesseps.
The remains of scarps of masonry show it to have been about 50 yds. in
width and 16-17'/2 ft. in depth. According to Herodotus the canal was
four days' journey, and according to Pliny 62 Roman miles, in length.
It is now chiefly used for irrigation purposes. At Shubra, to the N. fif
Cairo, the canal diverges from the Nile and thence traces to the N.E. the
boundary between the Arabian plateau (on the N.) and the land of Goshen
fon the S.). To the E. of Abu Hammad (p. 181) it intersects the ancient
fresh-water canal coming from Zakazik, and then runs to the E., parallel
with this, through the Wddi TUmildt, which is over 30 M. in length. At
JVefisheh (see above) the canal" forks; the S. arm leads to Suez, while the
N. arm leads to Port Sa'id.
The Goshen of the Bible (Egypt. Gosem) is first mentioned in the
Book of Genesis, xlv. 10, where Pharaoh says to Joseph : — 'And thou
shalt dwell in the land of Goshen, and thou shalt be near unto me, thou,
and thy children, and thy children's children, and thy flocks, and thy
herds, and all that thou hast\ Mention is made of Goshen also in Genesis
xlvi. 28, 29; and xlvii. 1, 6, 27. Exodus i. 11 mentions the cities in
Goshen in which the Israelites were compelled to work at the tasks im-
posed on them by Pharaoh : — 'Therefore they did set over them task-
masters to afflict them with their burdens. And they built for Pharaoh
treasure-cities (or storehouses), Pithom and Raamses' (see below). Comp.
Sir Hanhury Browri'i 'The Land oi Goshen and the Exodus' (2nd edit.t^
London, 1912; 3 s.). — Goshen lay in the triangle between Zakazik, Belbeis,
and Abu Hammad and formed part of the Egyptian nome of Arabia, the
capital of which was Per-Sopt (the Phakusa of the Greeks), re-discovered
by Naville near the modern Saft el-Hineh, 2 hrs.' ride to the E. of Zakazik
(p. 171). The ruins have disappeared, but a few ancient stones have been
built into the houses of the village and two steles are preserved in the
garden of the 'omdeh or village-headman.
58 M. Ahu Sueir. — 641/2 M. Mahsameh.
The neighbouring ruins of Tell el-MaskliMa mark the site of the Pithom
(Egypt. Per-Atum, i.e. 'house of the god Atum') of the Bible (see above). The
spot was explored for the Egypt Exploration Fund by Naville, who dis-
covered among the temple -buildings several grain -stores, in the form
of deep, rectangular chambers without doors, into which the corn was
poured from above. These perhaps date from the time of Ramses II., and
to Cairo. TELL EL-KEBIli. 11. Route. 181
may possibly be the actual 'storehouses' of the Bible. Later excavators,
however, recot;nize in these buildings part of the platform of a fort.
fi9 >I. Ka-m-sin (Kassassine, Qassasin). — 78 M. Tellel-KebiT,
noted as tlie scene of Arabi's defeat by the British troops in 1882
(p. cxxiv). On approaching Tell el-Kebir the train passes (left~) a
cemetery laid out by the English, with a tasteful monument to the
British soldiers who fell in the struggle with Arabi.
At (So .M.l Abu Hammad (p. 171) the train enters the fertile
district of the E. Delta, which is riclier both in water-courses and
trees than the W, Delta. — 92 M. Ahu el-Alchdar. — 97 M.
Zakdz'ik, see p. 171. — 101 M. Zankalun; 105Vo M. Goddieda;
108 M.' Mtna el-Kamh {Mina el-Qamh) pp. 171, 173); 109 M. Mlt
Yaiid; 113'/2 ^1- Sheblengeh (Cheblanga, Shiblanga). The train
crosses the Rayah et-Taufiki and reaches (119 M.) Benha (p. 34),
the last express-station before Cairo, where our line is joined by
that from Alexandria.
148 M. Cairo (Central Station), see p. 86.
From Isma'iliyeh to Suez, 56'/.) M., in ca. 2 hrs. — As far as
(3V2 ^I-) Nepsheh (p. 180) the train follows the line to Cairo. It then
bends to the S. and crosses the fresh-water canal, on the "W. bank
of which it remains all the way to Suez, with the desert lying to the
right. Farther on, to the left, we obtain a fine view of the bluish-
green Bitter Lakes (^p. 186). To the right rises the Gebel Geneifeh
(Geneffeh), or GebeL Ahmed Taker, with quarries which yielded
material for the construction of the canal. More in the background
are the heights of the Gebel 'Uiceibid (Aweibed). — 16 M. Fdyid
(Faxed). — Near (_28 M.) Geneifeh (Geneffeh) we lose sight of the
Bitter Lakes. On the left again stretches a vast sandy plain. On
the right, above the lower hills, tower the dark masses of the
'Atdka Mts., the outlines of which stand out very prominently by
evening-light; they are conspicuous also from Suez. Before reach-
ing Esh-Shallufeh (p. 187) we catch a glimpse of the Suez Canal,
on the left.
56'/2 M- Suez. The station is in the Rue Colmar (see p. 187).
The train goes on 3 M. farther to the Terre-Plein Station and the
Docks Station.
12. The Suez Canal from Port Said to Suez.
The passage of the Suez Canal is interesting only on one of the large
steamers, for from the small steamboats which ply regularly between Is-
ma'iliyeh and Port Sa'id the passenger cannot see beyond the embankments
of the canal. The S. part of the canal, from Isma'iliyeh to Suez, is the
more interesting. The passage from Port Sa'id to Suez occupies 15-22 hrs.
The fare by the British steamers is about 3<., by the French steamers
100 fr., by the North German LInyd 40 and 30 marks; by the German
Ea^t African Line 65 and 55 marks. The fares do nut include the tax
levied by the Canal Cu. cm each i>assen;j;er (see p. 186).
182 Route 12. THE SUEZ CANAL. History.
From Cairo a visit to the Suez Canal takes lour days: 1st Day. By
train to Suez; in the afternoon visit the harbour. — 2nd Day. Excursion
to the Springs of Moses; in the afternoon by train to Isind'iUyeh. — 3rd Day.
Excursion to £l-Gisr and walk through IsmS'iliyeh; in the afternoon
by train to Port Scfid (li/s hr.). — 4th Bay. Visit the harbour at Port
Sa'id in the morning ; in the afternoon return by rail to Cairo. — Hurried
travellers may omit Isma''iHyeh, the attractions of which are not great.
— Those with more time may include a visit to the Eastern Delta by
taking the train from Cairo to Man.sura (p. 173> and Damielta, then
crossing Lake Menzaleh to Port Sa'id , and proceeding to Isma'iliy
and Suez.
The excursion to the Suez Canal may be conveniently made on t:
way back to Europe, as the Australian, China, and Indian mail-steamc
touch at Suez (comp. R. 1). Between Feb. and June early application
the offices mentioned at p. 3S is desirable, as the steamers are then a
to be crowded. Information as to the exact day of the steamer's arriv
and as to whether room is .".vailable is not generally obtainable until t
steamer has left Aden (i.e. 3-4 days before it reaches Suez).
a. Isthmus of Suez and History of the Suez Canal.
The Isthmus of Suez, a neck of land which connects Africa wi
Asia, is at its narrowest part 70 M. in width. On the S. side it
washed by the N. part of tlie Gulf of Suez (Arab. Bahr Kolzm
Greek HeToopolitc Bay), the western of the two arms of the R
Sea, which separates Africa and Asia. The idea of a Suez Canal
no modern conception. The earliest authenticated attempt to co
nect the Red Sea with the Nile (and thereby with the Mediterranea
was made by Necho ( p. cv). His plan was to extend towards tj
S., from Lake Timsah to the Red Sea, an earlier canal, in existen
even during the Middle Empire, which diverged from the Nile ue
Bubastis and flowed through the Wadi Tumilat (p. 180). Herodot
informs us that no fewer than 120,000 Egyptians perished whi
engaged in the work, and that the king abandoned the imdertakii
when he was informed by an oracle that the barbarians (i.e. tl
Persians) alone would profit by it. The canal was completed a cei
tury later by Darius. Its course roughly corresponded to that of tl
present Fresh Water Canal (comp. p. 180). Darius commemorate
the completion of the great work by various monuments on i
banks, of which the remains have been found at different spo
ie.g. to the S. of Tell el-Maskhuta ; to the W. of the Serapeu
station; to the N. of Esh-Shallufeh; and to the N. of Suez). -
Under the Ptolemies the canal system was extended, and loci
were erected at its efflux into the Red Sea.
The canal fell into disrepair during the first century B. C, ai
Trajan (98-1 17 A.D.)seems to have restored it. At all events, a can;
beginning near Cairo and terminating in the Gulf of Suez, the pr
eise course of which, probably following the earlier channel, is n
where described, was called the Amnis Trajanus (Trajan's river).
After the Arabs had conquered Egypt they must have' been
desirous of connecting the Lower Egyptian part of the Nile as
History. THE SUEZ CANAL. 12. Route. 183
directly as possible with the Red Sea. 'Amr ibn el- As (pp. cxiii,44)
accordingly restored the ancient canal, the bed of which is said to
have been pointed out to him by a Copt, and used it for the trans-
port of grain from Fustat (p. 44) to Kolzum (Suez), whence it was
exported by the Red Sea to Arabia. The canal again hecame un-
serviceable after the 8th century. At a later period the Venetians
frequently thought of constructing a canal through the Isthmus, with
a view to recover the trade which they had lost owing to the discovery
of the route round the Cape of Good Hope. Leibnitz, too, in his pro-
posal regarding an expedition to Egypt, made in 1671 to Louis XIV.,
the greatest monarch of his age, strongly recommends the construc-
tion of such a canal. Sultan Mustafa III., the admirer of Frederick
the Great, All Bey, the enterprising Mameluke prince, and Bonao
parte all revived the scheme, and the last on his expedition t-
Egypt in 1798 (p. cxx) even caused preliminary works to he under-
taken, but the actual execution of the project seemed almost as
distant as ever. Lepi-re, Bonaparte's chief road engineer, surveyed
the ground, but owing to a serious miscalculation he threw great
doubt on the feasibility of the undertaking. While in reality the
level of the two seas is nearly the same, Lepere estimated that of the
Red Sea to be nearly 33 ft. higher than that of the Mediterranean.
In 1836 Ferdinand de Lesseps (1805-94) came to Cairo as a
young consular eleve, and there had his attention called to Leppre's
Memoire reprardiug the scheme of connecting the two seas, which
led him to consider its great importance in spite of Lepere's doubts
as to its feasibility. In 1838 he made the acquaintance of Lieut.
Waghorn (p. 188), whose zealous advocacy of the establishment of
a route between Europe and India via Egypt stimulated his zeal
for a similar project. In 1841 and 1847 Linant-Bey, the viceroy's
engineer of water-works, and Messrs. Stephenson, Negrelli, and
Bourdaloue demonstrated the inaccuracy of Lepf-re's calculations.
In 1854 M. de Lesseps, having matured his plan, laid it before
Sa'id Pasha, who was then viceroy and determined to carry it out.
Difficulties were thrown in the way of the enterprise by the British
government during Lord Palmerstons ministry, but on Jan. 5th,
1856, permission to hegin the work was formally granted hy the
viceroy. A considerable time, however, elapsed before the necess-
ary capital was raised, and it was not till April 22nd, 1859, that
the work was actually begun. The viceroy undertook to pay many
of the current expenses and provided 25,000 workmen, who were
to be paid and fed by the company at an inexpensive rate and
were to he relieved every three months. Until the completion of
the fresh-water canal (p. 180) the supplying of these workmen with
water, which at first had to be transported on camels, cost the
company 8000 fr. per day. Later, however, fewer native hands were
employed, European labourers were engaged, and much of the
work was done by machinery, of 22,000 horse-power in all.
184 Route 12.
THE SUEZ CANAL.
Statistics.
On March 18th, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was at
length allowed to flow into the nearly dry, salt-encrusted basins of
the Bitter Lakes, the N. parts of which lay 26-40 ft. helow the
level of the Mediterranean, while the S. parts required extensive
dredging operations. The opening of the Suez Canal was inaugurated
on Nov. 17th, 1869, with magnificent festivities in the presence
of many European princes.
The cost of constructing the canal amounted to about 19 million
pounds sterling, of which 12,800, 000(. was paid by the shareholders,
while the rest of the sum was almost entirely contributed by the
Khedive. In 1875, however, the British Government acquired
177,000 of the Khedive's shares for a sum of 4,000,000^. The canal
belongs to the Suez Canal Company (Compagnie Vniverselle du Canal
Maritime de Suez), founded in 1854, which possesses also lands,
buildings, and other property, valued at nearly 3,000,000f.
The canal is 161 kilometres flOO M.") in length, and the E.
bank is furnished with distance-posts at intervals of 5 kilometres.
Near the stations are passing-places for the large steamers, named
'Gare du Nord' and 'Gare du Sud' respectively. The canal is now
throughout 36 ft. in depth, admitting vessels drawing 28 ft. of water.
The surface varies in breadth from 260 to 445 ft., while the minimum
width of the bottom is 147 ft.
The great mercantile importance of the Suez Canal is apparent from
the following data. The distance from London to Bombay via the Capo
of Good Hope is 12,548 English miles, and via the Canal TO'28 M. only.
The saving thus effected is 44 per cent of the distance. From Hamburg to
Bombay by the Cape 12,903 M., by the Canal 7383 M. ; saving 43 per cent.
From Trieste to Bombay by the Cape 13,229 M., by the Canal 4816 31.; saving
63 per cent. From London to Hongkong by the Cape 15,229 M., by the Canal
11,112 M. ; saving 28 per cent. From Odessa to Hongkong by the Cape
16,629 M., by the Canal 8735 M. ; saving 47 per cent. From Marseilles t(i
Bombay by the Cape 12,144 M., by the Canal 5022 BI.; saving 59 per cent.
From Constantinople to Zanzibar by the Cape 10,271 M., by the Canal
4365 M.; saving 57 per cent. From Kotterdam to the Sunda Strait by the
Cape 13,252 M., by the Canal 9779 M. ; saving 26 per cent.
The canal is open both by day and by night to vessels of all nation-
alities. The following table illustrates the growth of traffic: —
No. of
Aggregate
No. of
Aggregate
Year
vessels
tonnage t
Year
vessels
tonnage t
1870
435
493,911
1805
4115
13.132,694
1875
1494
2,009,984
1906
3975
13,443.392
1880
2026
3,057.422
1907
4272
14,728,32(!
1F85
3624
6,335,753
IfiOS
3795
13,640,199
)885-S9
8344
6.286,089
1909
4239
15,417,748
1890-94
356S
7,799,B?6
1910
4.f)33
16,581,898
1895-99
3387
8,8a8.455
1911
49fi9
18,324,794
1900-4
3769
11,423,904
1912
5373
20,275,120
+ In the above table the figures for lS85-irO'l shuw tlie annual averages;
the tonnage for 1870 is gross, for the other years net.
•Ui c
a
=^^i]
^^^
3 V ^
Suez Canal. KL-KANTARA. 12. Route. 185
The nationalities of the vessels traversing the canal in 1912 were as
follows: British 3*35; German 698; Dutch 343; Austria -Hung.irian 24'^;
French 221; Italian 143; Russian 126; Japanese 63; Norwegian 60: Danish 45;
Swedish 38; Spanish 26; American 5; other nationalities 22. — The number
of passen:;er8 through the canal in 1912 was 266,403 as compared with
26,758 in 1870.
The dues amount to 6 fr. 26 c. per ton for all vessels except ships in
ballast for which the dues are 3 fr. 75 c. ; 10 fr. for each passenger (children
half-price). The income of the company in 1910, in 1911, and in 1912 was
respectively 133,70i,212 fr., 138,038,224 if r., and 139,922,639 fr. The expen-
diture in 1912 w;.s 47,7'^5,624 fr.
Steamers arc not allowed to steam through the canal (except in the
large Bitter Lakes) above a speed of 6 M. per hr., as their wash would
injure the embankments.
b. Passage of the Suez Canal.
Port Said, see p. 177. — I'lie numerous masts in the harbour
of Port Sa'id remain in sight long after we quit that town. The
canal, on the W. bank of which runs the railway to Isma'iliyeh
(p. 179), is constructed in a perfectly straight line through Lake
Menzaleh, but the part of the lake adjoining the canal on the E.
has been drained. The brackish waters of this lake extend over
an area of about 1000 sq.M., covering what was once one of the most
fertile districts in Egypt, formerly intersected by the three most
important arms of the Nile (p. Ixvii) in ancient times, the Pelusiac,
the Tanitic, and the Mendesian. Among the numerous towns and
villages situated here were the importaitt cities of Tanis (p. 172)
and Tennis. The chief village is now Matariyeh (p. 174). Imuieuse
flocks of pelicans and silver herons and some flamingoes are to be
seen on the lake, and its waters are fished by about 7000 boats,
each of which pays a monthly tax of <£E 2. For steamers of the
Menzaleh Canal and Navigation Co., see p. 179. — The first station
is Er-Ranva [Rassoua, Rufsua ; 2uil kilometre; comp. p. 179), the
next is (10 M.) Rds el-'Eish (p. 179).
Lake Menzaleh ends at (27 '/.2 M.) £1-Kautara [F.l-Qaniarn ;
'the bridge'), an isthmus separating it from Lake Balali. Over this
isthmus led the ancient caravau-route from Egypt to Syria. The
railway from Cairo to Port Sa'id (p. 1791 has a station here. The
village, with its mosque, lies on the Asiatic bank of the eanal. The
hill to the left commands a survey of the environs.
The mounds of debris named Tell Dffenneh or Tell ed-Daffdneh ('hill
of the grave-diggers'), situated to the N. of the caravan-route between
Es-Salihiyeh (p. 112) and El-Kantara, at the ancient Pelusiac mouth of
the Nile, contain the remains of a camp of the Greek mercenaries of
F'samnicticbos I. These were e.xcavated in 1886 by Prof. Flinders Petrie,
who found numerous fragments of Greek pottery, arrow-heads, and weapons.
Prof. Petrie identifies the spot with the Greek Daphnae and with the
Tahapams, Tahpanhes, or Tehaphnehes of the Bible (.ler. ii. 16 and xliii. 7;
Ezek. XXX. 18, etc.). — About I'/z JI. to the E. of El-Kantara, a little to
the S. of the old caravan-road, lies the hill of Tell Abu Sei/eh, with the
ruins of a temple of Ramses II. and remains of the Ptcdemaic and Rom-
an periods.
186 Route 12. HITTER T.AKES. Suez Canal.
A moderate day's journey (on camels') to the N.E. of El-Kantara are
situated the ruin-strewn Tell Farama and Tell el-Fadda, occupying the site
of Felusium. the celebrated eastern seaport and "key to Egypt (comp.
p. cvi), which now contains no objects of interest.
The canal traverses Lake Balah, now almost entirely drained.
At El-Ferdan (p. 179), at the S. end of the lake, the canal passes
Through the first cutting. At the next passing-place we obtain a
glimpse of the desert.
The hills of El-Gisr ('the embankment'), which cross the course
of the canal at an average height of 52 ft. above the sea-level,
l)resented the most serious obstacle to its construction. In order to
form a cutting through it about 18,800,000 cubic yds. of earth had
to be removed. At the top of the hill is tlic deserted village of
El-Gisr, with a chapel to the Virgin of the Desert and a ruined
mosque. A flight of steps ascends to this point from the canal.
The view hence embraces a great part of the Istlimus, the frowning
'Ataka Mts. (p. 181) above Suez, the mountains of the Peninsula
of Sinai, the course of the canal, and the green expanse of the
Bitter Lakes.
At the end of the cutting the canal enters Lake Tims&li, or the
Crocodile Lake, the dredged channel through which is indicated by
stakes. As we enter the lake we see the khedivial chalet (see
p. 179) above us to the right, and to the S. the mountains of Gebel
Abu Balah. The lake, which is now about S'/'isq. M. in area and
of a beautiful pale-blue colour, was, before the construction of the
canal, a mere pond of brackish water, and full of reeds. On its N.
bank lies the town of Ismailiyeh (p. 179).
After quitting Lake Timsah wc pass (r.) the foot of the Gebel
Maryam, which an Arabian legend points out as the place where
Miriam, when smitten with leprosy for her disapproval of the mar-
riage of Moses with aTi Ethiopian woman, spent seven days, beyond
the precincts of the camp of the Israelites (Numbers xii). — At
the 85th kilometre is situated (r.) the small village of TusUn, which
is easily recognized by the whitewashed dome of the tomb of a
sheikh. P^xcavations near Tusun have led to the discovery of many
interesting fossil remains of large animals belonging to the miocene
tertiary formation, and pieces of fossil wood also have been found
here (comp. p. 118). — A little farther on (near the 90th kilo-
metre) is the cutting which conducts the canal through tlie rocky
barrier of the Serapeum (comp. p. 182).
The canal now enters the Large Basin of the Bitter Lakes.
Brugsch identifies the Bitter Lakes with the Marah of the Bible
( Exod. XV. 23). At each end of the large basin rises an iron light-
house, 05 ft. in height. The water is of a bluish-green colour. The
banks are flat and sandy, but a little to the S.W. (r.) rises the
not unpicturesque range of the Gebel Geneifeh (p. 181). The bed
of the Little Bitter Lake, which we next traverse, consists entirely of
shell-formations.
SUEZ. 13. Route. 187
Near Esh-SliaUufeh (& station near the 139tb kilometre; sec
p. 181) no less thau 45,000 cubic yds. of limestone, coloured red
and brown with iron, had to be removed in the course of the ex-
cavation of the canal. This stone contained teeth and vertebra-
of sharks, bivalve shells, and remains of Bryozoa. In the layer ol
sand above the limestone were found crocodiles' teeth and the re-
mains of hippopotami and other large quadrupeds. The monument
of Darius near Esh-Shallufeh is mentioned at p. 182.
We finally reach the (Julf of Suez, which is here so shallow^ that,
but for the canal, it might be crossed on foot at low tide. It con-
tains several islands. On the W. bank rise the workshops and
magazines of the Canal Company. Passengers are landed in steam-
launches.
Suez ( Port Tauftk ,• 160 kilometres), see p. 188.
13. Suez and its Environs.
Railway Stations. 1. Arbaeen, for the new quarter of Arba'in; 2. Rtie
Colmar, for the town of Suez; 3. Terre-Plcin, for Port Taufik ; 4. Docks
Station, for the docks. — Arrival by steamer, see above.
Hotels. Hotel Bel-Aie (PI. a), opposite the Eastern Telegraph Co.s
office, 35 R., pen<>. 52 pias. . good; Hot. - Restaoeant d' Okiest. Rue
Colmar. At Port T.%ufik: Hot. du Sisai, to the E. of ihe Terre-Pleiii
.station (p. 1S8); Hot. Savoi. — Habruner's Bier/ialle, Shari' Caracol el-
Warsha, near the Rue Colmar station.
Post Office, near the harbour (see Plan). — Telegraph Office (Egyptian).
at the JT.E. corner of the Government Buildintjs. Telegrams to foreign
countries should be despatched by the wires of the Eastern Telegraph Com-
pany (PI. 2; English). — CiSTOJl HocsE near the harbour (PI. 1). — At Poit
Taufik there arc branch-offices of the post-office and of both telegrapli
companies and a sub-office of customs. Mr. G. tfavro. agent for Cook
<fe Son, also lives at Port Taufik.
Physicians. Dr. J. Creswell (head of the Government Hospital); Dr.
Gauthier (head of the French Hospital). — Druggists. Eippocrate, Eliades.,
Pharmacie Suez, all in the Rue Oolmar.
Consuls. British Proconsul, F. M. Lockwood; American Consular Agent,
Fred. T. Peake. There are also I'rench, German, and other vice-consuls.
Junction Railway between the town (Station Arbaeen) and the harbour-
island (Docks; 11. 188), in 9 min. (fare 1 pias.); trains half-hourly all day.
Rowing Boats. A charge of S-10 pias. is usually made for a rowing
boat for an hour. The boatmen arc apt to be extortionate in their
demands, as passengers on the large "liners', making a short stay only,
are often too lavish in their payments. Comp. p. 189.
Steamship Agents. Peninsular db Oriental Co., Davidson; North German
Lloyd, Miiller <t Co.; Hambury-Anifrican Line and German East African Lirn-,
fi. Meinecke; Austrian Llotjd, A. Tribel ; lOiedivial Mail Line, H. Fraser;
Messa/jeries Marilimes, J. Jumeliu ; Societa ilarittima Italiana, L. Deperais ;
Societd Italiana di Servizi Marittimi, at Cook's Agency (see above).
Disposition of Time. The afternoon of the day of arrival may be
devoted to a visit to the Harbour and Canal Entrance, by rowing-boat or
by the junction-railway (see above). The next forenoon (early start neces-
sary; comp. p. 189) may be spent in an excursion to the Springs of Moses.
A visit to the ('oral Formations (p. 189) practically involves another day's
stav at Suez,
188 Route 13. SUEZ.
Suez (Arab. iSwcis) lies at the head oi' the gulf of that name,
one of the N. extremities of the Red Sea, and to the S.W. of the
mouth of the Suez Canal. Before the construction of the great
■work of M. de Lesseps it was a miserable Arab village, while in
1907 it contained 18,347 inhab., including 2530 Europeans. Nei-
ther the Arab quarter, with its seven mosques and unimportant
bazaar, nor the European quarter, in which the principal street is
the Rue Colmar, presents any attraction. The town has a governor
of its own.
A mound of debris to the N. of the town, called by the Arabs
K6m el-Kolzum, commands a fine view of the mountains of the
Peninsula of Sinai, the sea, the harbour, and the town. This hill
was probably the site of the Ptolemaic fortress Klysma as well as
of an earlier settlement of the period of the Pharaohs. Beyond the
railway, to the W., are the mud-huts of an Arab sailors' quarter.
— A little farther to the N. is the mouth of the Fresh Water Canal
(p. 180), the flow of which into the conduits, as well as its discharge
into the sea, is regulated by means of a large lock. The level of the
canal is here 61/2 ft. above that of the Red Sea. On its banks, and
also near the British Cemetery, are gardens in which fruit and vege-
tables flourish luxuriantly. The large buildings to the N. of it are
the former English Naval Hospital and the engine-house of the
Water Works. — To the E. of the canal is the large camping-ground
for caravans. Numerous pilgrims to Mecca, chiefly from Egypt,
Syria, Turkey, and Bokhara, pass through Suez.
As the N. extremity of the Gulf of Suez ends in a shoal, which
is dry at low water, the entrance of the Suez Canal and the ne-
cessary harbour- works were constructed 2 M. to the S., at the be-
ginning of the deep water. A stone Causeway, 50 ft. wide, on which
run a road and the junction-railway mentioned at p. 187, connects
the town with these works and affords beautiful views of the
'Ataka Mts. on the W. and the range of the Peninsula of Sinai
on the E.
At the end of the pier is Port Taufik, on an artificial island,
about 50 acres in area, constructed of the large quantities of earth
dredged from the canal. To the left is the railway station of Terre-
Plein. The main street of Port Taufik is the Avenue HeVene, over
1000 yds. in length, at the K end of which is a bronze bust erected
by M. de Lesseps to Lieutenant Waghorn (p. 183), an enterprising
German in the British service, who, after having spent the best
years of his life in the endeavour to establish regular communication
between England and India via Egypt, died in London in poverty
in 1850. The large basin to the S.W. , Port Ibrdhim (Docks Station),
is spacious and well-protected and is capable of containing even
large war -ships. — The situation of the sand-banks and of the
navigable channel is of course best seen at low tide.
SPRINGS OF MOSES. 13. Route. 189
EXCDKSION TO THE SPEINGS OF MoSES (7-8 llIS.). — BoaU (p. 187)
and Donkeys (there and back about 20 piaa.) should be ordered a day in
advance, and an early morning start should be made (about 6 a.m.). A
steam-launch, for which application should be made to a consul or to a
steamship agent, is preferable to a rowing-boat. Calm weather is very
desirable for this excursion also, not only for the passage in the boat (by
which the donkeys also must be conveyed) but also because the driving
sand in the desert is very disagreeable in a high wind. About 2 hrs.
should be allowed for the stay at the springs, including time lor luncheon
(brought by the traveller) and for a walk on the beach.
Tlie distance from the usual landing-place of the boats, in the
entrance to the Suez Canal (comp. the Map, p. 187), to the Springs
is about 6i/o M. (2 hrs.' ride). The whole of the route thence by
land traverses the sand of the desert , skirting the sea, which lisg
to the right. Towards the W. tower the imposing 'Ataka Mts.
[y. 181) , which present a most picturesque appearance on the
return-route. To the left rise the yellowish ranges of the Gebel
er-Raha, helonging to the long chain of the Gebel et-Tih, and
facing the S.E. We are now traversing Asiatic soil, while at the
same time the eye ranges over part of the African continent.
In favourable weather the expedition is usually made by sea
to the pier at the quarantine-station (Esh-Shatt), about 2 M" to the
N.W. of the Springs, which are thence reached on foot. This part
of the Red Sea was long regarded as the 'reedy sea' across which the
Israelites fled from Pharaoh ; now, however, this is generally located
farther to the N., in the vicinity of the Bitter Lakes, which at that
epoch may have been connected with the Red Sea.
The Springs of Moses ('hjun Musa) form an oasis of luxuriant
vegetation , about five furlongs in circumference. Some of the
springs, which vary in temperature from 70° to 84° Fahr., are only
slightly brackish, while others are undrinkably bitter. The largest,
in the garden farthest to the S., is said to have been the bitter
spring which Moses sweetened by casting into it a particular tree
(Exod. XV. 23 et seq.l.
A mound, ca. 10 min. to the S.E. of the gardens, which is
about 15 ft. high and is marked by a solitary palm-tree, commands
a fine view. The pool on the top of the moundis one of the most
characteristic of the springs, and is full of animal life. — Conchol-
ogists will find a number of interesting shells on the beach at low
tide, but the best places are farther to the S.
An interesting boating-excursion may be made in good weather to the
Submarine Coral Oardens. We skirt the slope of the coral rock '^Sha'db^,
which stretches along the coast, becoming better developed the farther S.
we go. Those who are interested in marine biology should land on the
rock, which is nearly dry at low water.
From Suez to Khartum, see R. 33.
FnoM SuKz TO JIoDNT Si>?Ai vifi tlie Springs of Moses (8 days), see
Baedeker\<i Palestine and Syria.
190
14. The Faiyum.
For a visit to the Faiyum, a fertile and attractive district with many
historical associations, four days are desirable, though it may be ac-
complished in two. Travellers with a slight knowledge of the language
and the customs may dispense with a dragoman. 1st Day. Railway from
Cairo to Medinet el-FaiyAm ; inspect that town and its environs (Kdm Fdris).
2nd Dat. Excursion to Hawdra (Labyrinth) s.uA. lUahiXn; in the afternoon
on to Biahmu by carriage or donkey. 3ed Day. Excursion to Lake Moeris,
where the night is spent. 4m Day. Return to Cairo. — Hurried travellers
may take the afternoon train from Cairo to Medinet el-FaiyCm, where the
night is spent. Next morning visit Biahmu (I'/z hr. there and back) and
K6m Fdris (there and back 1 hr. on foot), or drive to the pyramid of Ha-
lodra. At midday they go on by train to Fbskuai, vchence they proceed,
by carriage or donkey, to (1 hr.) Lake Moeris. The night may be spent
here or, if necessary, the late afternoon train may be caught for Cairo
via Medinet el-Faiyiim. — Messrs. Cook & Son also organize six-day and
eight-day desert -excursions on camels from the Pyramids of Gizeh via
Sakkara and Dahshur to Tamiyeh, Lake Mceris, and Medinet el -Faiyum,
details of which may be learned at Cook's office in Cairo (p. 38).
Railway from Cairo to Medinet el-Faiyum, 81 M., in 2i/2-4'A l^rs. —
From Medinet el-Faiyum radiate two narrow-gauge railways (besides the
main line) and a number of light railways, which facilitate visits even
to remote points. — Cakkiages and Hokses may be obtained at the Hotel
Earoun in Medinet el-Faiyum (p. 191).
Situation and History of the Faiyum. In the great plateau of the
Libyan Desert, which rises 300-400 ft. above the sea-level, is situated the
province of the Faiy6m (from the ancient Egyptian 'Phiom", i.e. the lake),
the first of the oases, which is usually considered to belong to the valley
of the Nile, and is justly celebrated for its extraordinary fertility. This
tract is in the form of an oval basin and is enclosed by the Libyan hills,
which are here of moderate height, and lies about three-fifths of a degree
to the S. of Cairo. It enjoys a remarkably fine climate. Even at the period
of the Ptolemies and the Romans the products of the Faiyum were much ex-
tolled. 'The Arsinoite Nome\ says Strabo, 'is the most remarkable of all,
both on account of its scenery and its fertility and cultivation. For it
alone is planted with large and richly productive olive-trees, and the oil is
good when the olives are carefully gathered; those who are neglectful may
indeed obtain oil in abundance, but it has a bad smell. In the rest of
Egypt the olive-tree is never seen, except in the gardens of Alexandria,
where under favourable circumstances it yields olives but no oil. Vines,
corn, podded plants, and many other products also thrive in this district
in no small abundance.' The Faiyum is entirely indebted for its fertility
to the Bahr YHsuf ('Canal of Joseph'), which diverges from the Ibrahi-
miyeh Canal at Beirut (see p. 231), and flows at lUahun (p. 194) through a
narrow opening in the Libyan chain into the Faiyum, where it divides
into numerous ramifications, abundantly watering the whole district. At
the point where the Bahr Yusuf enters the Faiyum the district forms a
plateau of moderate height, descending towards the W. in two gradations
towards the Birket Karun (p. 196). Method of irrigation, see p. Ixvi.
In antiquity the Faiyflm was known as Te-she or 'lake-land' (6r. Limni,
lake), from the great inland lake frequently mentioned and described by
Greek travellers and geographers under the name of Lake Moerit (from Egypt.
me(rywer., mwir, great lake), of which the last trace must be recognized in
the present Birket KarAn (p. 196). At the most remote period the lake occupied
almost the entire basin of the Faiyiim, but within the historical period its
circumference seems to have been about 140 M. (though Herodotus says 3600
stadia, i.e. 445 M.) and its area about 770 sq. BI. According to recent cal-
culations it lay 73 ft. above the level of the Mediterranean, whereas the
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MEDINET EL-FAIYUM. 14. Routt. 191
present lake is 144 ft. below sea-level. The aucient Lake Moeris thus left
uncovered only a narrow strip of fertile land on the S., known as the 'Lake-
land', on which stood the capital Shetet (Crocodilopolis, p. 192), protected
l)y cmbaukoienta against inundation. Several rulers of the 12th Dyn. estab-
lished their camps on the E. margin of the Lake-land, and Amenemhet 111.
seems to have shown a special predilection for it. Teye, the wife of Amen-
ophis III. (18th Dyn. J, fixed her residence near niahun. In the Greek period,
chiefly in the reign of Ptolemy Philadelphus, the lake-area was reduced by
means of embankments, until its total size approximated to that of the
modern Birket Karun. Attempts were made to reclaim land for agricultural
purposes by draining the marshes ; and the success that has attended these
efforts is attested by the fertile fields and prosperous villages that have oc-
cupied for twenty centuries the erstwhile site of Lake Ma;ris. Strabo de-
scribes the lake in the following terms: 'Owing to its size and depth Lake
Moeris is capable of receiving the superabundance of water during the in-
undation without overflowing the habitations and crops; but later, when
the water subsides, and after the lake has given up its e.^cess through the
same canal (i.e. the Bahr Yusuf), both it and the canal retain water enough
for purposes of irrigation. At both ends of the canal there are lock-gates
by means of which the engineers can regulate the influx and efflux of the
water.' The method by which the distribution of the excess water was
accomplished is unknown. Kear the modern Illahun there is a lock to
this day. — The statement of Herodotus that Lake Moeris was an artificial
construction thus rests upon an error and is moreover in direct contra-
diction to Strabo's account. For the pyramid and statues mentioned
by Herodotus as standing in the lake, see p. 193.
The Faiyum forms a separate province. The Inhabitanls are fellahin,
or tillers of the soil, and Bedxiins. To the latter race belong the poor
fishermen who inhabit the banks of the Birket Kariin. — Comp. 'The Topo-
graphy and Geology of the Fayum Province of Hgypt', by S. J. L. Beadnell
(Report of the Egyptian Survey Department; Cairo, 1905; 30 pias.).
From Cairo to El-Wasta (57 M.; 92 ft.), see pp.205, 206.
Travellers change carriages.
The narrow-gauge railway to the Faiyuui runs towards the W.,
across cultivated land (with the pyramid of Meidum on the plateau
to the right; p. 205), to the village of Kom Abu Rddi, beyond which
it traverses a desert tract and crosses the low and bleak Libyan
chain of hills, attaining its highest point at 190 ft. above the sea.
On reaching the cultivated districts of the Faiyum the train crosses
the Abdalla Wahbi Canal. The pyramid of Hawara (p. 194) is seen
to the left. Beyond ( I0V2 M.) Seileh (Seila, Siala) we cross the Bahr
Seileh el-GecUd and the Bahr el-Wddi or El-Bats Canal (p. 196; now
reclaimed for tillage). — Near (I8V2 M.) Edweh (Edwah; 69 ft.) is
a cemetery. In the distance is the pyramid of Illahun (p. 195),
nearer is that of Hawara (p. 194). We traverse rich arable land.
231/2 M. Medinet el-FaiyAm. — Hotels (near the station). EdUl
Karoitn (landlord, Athanase Tasco), R. 10, pens. 50 pias.. carr. and riding-
animals for hire, Hdfel du Fayoum or Locanda Manuli, pens. 40 pias.,
both quite plain. — Agency of the National Bank of Egypt.
Medinet el-Faiyum, usually known as El-Medlneh, is the chief
town of the province of Faiyiim and contains 37,320 inhab. (in-
cluding many (ireeks). There are several mosques, a large Coptic
church, and a station of the American Mission. The long covered
bazaars contain nothing of special interest. The mosque of Kd'it Bey,
192 Route 14. CROCODILOPOLIS. The Faiydm.
built ou a bridge over the Bohr Y'O.suf (p. 190), lias an ancient portal ,
■with bronze-mounted doors. The interior has been restored. At
the W. end of the town the Bahr Yusuf radiates through sluices
into numerous branches. 0
To the N. of the town, and intersected by the railway to Abuksa
(see below), are the rubbish-mounds known as Klmdn Fdris, or
'riders' hills', covering an area of 560 acres and rising to the height
of 65 ft. These mark the site of Crocodilopolis - Ai-sinoe, tlie most
extensive remains of any old Egyptian town.
The ancient Egyptian name of this town was Sheiet. It was the centre
of the worship of the crocodile-headed water-god Sobek (ihe Greek Suchos),
under whose protection the entire lake-land stood. The crocodile was
sacred to Sobek, and the Greeks therefore named the city Crocodilopolis
or 'crocodile-town'. It never attained to any political importance. Ptol-
emy II. Philadelphns seems to have converted it into an essentially
Hellenic city by adding new quarters, founding Greek temples and educa-
tional institutions, and introducing the Greek language. This monarch
also ra,ised Queen Arsinoe to the dignity of patron-goddess, and the district
became known as the 'Arsinoite Nome' and the capital as the 'City of
the dwellers in the Arsinoite Kome% or, more briefly, as Arsinoe. At the
time of its greatest prosperity it had over 100,000 inhabitants.
In the midst of the ruins rises a mound of rubbish known as
Kom Fdris (65 ft. high). The top commands a wide survey of the
modern town, the ruins of the ancient city, and the whole Faiyum,
with the pyramids of Illahfin and Hawara to the S.E. The rubbish-
heaps have recently been much diminished by brick-burners and
diggers for sabakh (p. Ixxi). — During the last quarter of the 19tli
cent, important discoveries of papyri were made here, especially in
the mound known as Kom el-Kharydna. Most of these papyri are
now in the late Archduke Rainer's collection in Vienna, while others
are in the museums of London, Berlin, and other towns. They are
chiefly Greek business-documents (records, receipts, letters, etc.),
but some literary specimens also have been found, containing frag-
ments from Homer, Euripides, Thucydides, etc.
The best-preserved section of the ruins is that to the N., which
in Prof. Schweinfurth's words, Ho this day produces the impression
of a city but recently destroyed. The walls of the houses still stand
far and wide, but the narrow interlacing lanes, bewildering in their
ramifications and interrupted by countless trenches and holes in
the ground, render it impossible to obtain any clear idea of the
general plan'. On the extreme N. edge of the ruins, near the farm
of 'Ezbet Tarkhat Effendi, are a few blocks of limestone marking
the site of the principal ancient temple, which was dedicated to
Sobek. This existed as early as the 12th Dyn. and was afterwards
rebuilt by Ramses II, Beside the temple lay originally the sacred
pond in which the crocodile of Sobek was kept.
Nakrow Gauge Railways run from Medinet el-Faiyum via Senru
(p. 196) and Ehshuai (Eichaaai, Ihshawai; p. 196) to (15 M.) Abuksa.^ and via
Biahmn to (7i/2 M.) Senitres (Sanouris; light railway, see p. 193), a district-
capital with 17,106 inhabitants.
The FaiyHm. BIAHMU. 14. Route. 193
The Fayoum Agricultural Light Railways also radiate in various
directions, their starting-point adjoining the main railway station. 1. Via
Kuhdfelt (p. 194), lluwura (for the Labyrinth, p. li 5), and Dimishkin to
illahUn {M-LahiH; pyramid, p. 195j. — 'i. Via Sheikh IJasait and 'Ezbet Maltar
to Kalamsha (Ealamchah), whence DesMsheh (p. 207), abdut 12 M. to the S.,
may be reached on donkey-back via Abu Hdmed in 2'/-i-3 hrs. — 3. Via
Ebgig (Beglg , Abghigli ., Abguig ; see below), Difinu (Difino, Do/aiiou) , Eisu
(district-capital with ij518 inhab.), iliniet el-Beii {El-Minia; see below),
Shidmo ( Chedmouh), and Sheikh Abu Ndr to El'-Onarak. About G M. to the
S.H. of El-Gharak, on the Bahr el-Gharak Canal on' the S.W. border of
the Faiyum, near the modern Unim el-Baragat, lay the ancient Tebtynis,
in the necropolis of which a number of mummitied crocodiles and
numerous papyri were found in 1899-1900. From El-Gharak an interestiii'j;
desert- expedition may be made in one day on camels to the Wddi Raydn,
a valley on the way to the oasis of Kahriyeh (p. 379). — 4. To Etsa and
iliniet el-JIeii (see above), and via Abu Gandtr, Nezleh-Beled, and Kasr
el-Gebdli to Shawdshiieh (p. 197). — 5. Via Sufi, MuliU (Motonl), Oar'adu.
and Tubhar (Ttbhar) to Nezleh-Wddi. — 6. Via Edweh (p. 191), Milirldrin
(Malar Tares), Ma'savet-DOdch (Maasarei Douda) to Seniircs (p. 192) and
'I'diiiiyeh (TamUt; p. 197). — 7. Via Edweh and Milirldris to Forkos and
Er-R6da. To the E. of Forkos lies the village of Er-Rubiydt, the ancient
Philadelphia, in the necropolis of which Theodore Graf found the famous
mummy-portraits he brought to Europe.
The village of Biahmu or Bihatni/, which lies on the railway to
Senures (p. 192), 4V2 M. to the N. of JMedinet el -Faiyum, is usually
visited on donkey-back (ii/4 br. ; there and back 15 pias.) or by carriage
(there and back 40 pias.). The fine highroad running to Senures leads
past the Government School, the Government Hospital, and several country-
houses. It then traverses fertile fields and passes palm groves and fig-
orchards, affording an insight into the fertility of the district. — By the
railway-embankment, about '/z ^- 'o the IJ. of the station of Biahmu,
rise two large stone Piles, which present the appearance of rained
pyramids and are called by the natives Mursi Fara'dii ('Pharaoh's chair')
or Es-Sanam ('the idol'). These were the pedestals of two colossal sandstone
Statues' of King Amenemhet III., remains of which have been found by
Lepsius and by Prof. Flinders Petrie, who estimates their original height
at 40 ft. The learned Father Vansleb of Erfurt saw the lower portion of
one of these figures in 1672. The pedestals were once washed by the
waters of Lake Jloeris, and there is little doubt that they are the two
pyramids described by Herodotus as standing in Lake Moeris, each with
a colossal seated human figure upon it.
From MedTnet el-Faitom to SenhCb, 91/2 J'.i a ride of about 3 hrs.
This line route leads through a remarkably fertile and well-cultivated
region, via the villages of Beni Sdleh and Es-Sellytn. Picturesquely situa-
ted on a clifl" to the left appears the village of Fidimln or Fademineh. —
Senhur (Sanhour, Sanhur) is a large village occupying the site of a con-
siderable ancient town.
Near Ebgig (railway station, see above), 2 JI. to the S.W. of Medinet
el-FaiyiJm, lies a red granite obelisk, now broken, which must once have
been at least 46 ft. in height. The natives call it 'Amdd, or the column.
The inscriptions, which are damaged at many places, inform us that the
monument was erected by Sesostris I.
The Pyramid of Hawara, the Labyrinth, and lUahiin.
The excursion to the Pyramid of Hawara may be comfortably accom-
plished in half-a-day. We take the light railway (see above) to ('/z lir.)
Hawdra, and ride thence by donkey, which we must bring with us (comp.
p. 191). From the pyramid we ride all the way back to Medinet el-Faiyum.
Or we may ride all the way to the pyramid and back (ca. 3 brs. ; 15 pias.). —
A visit to the Pyramid of Illahun requires an entire day, but a visit to
Hawara may be included on the return-route. We take the light railway
194 Route 14. HAWARA. The Faiyxlm.
to Bash-Kdtib, ride thence to the Pyramid of Illahun, and thence, in I1/2 hr-,
to the Pyramid of Hawara. — Caekiage to the Pyramid of Havvara and
back 45 piastres.
1. Railway Journey to Hawara and Illahtln. The railway,
following the same conrse as tlie highroad , leads at first along
the bank of the Bahr YHsuf, with the pyramid of Hawara to the
left, to the village of Kuhdfeh (Kohafa). Farther on it traverses
cultivated fields, with the heights of Gebel Sedment to the right,
and reaches the station of Hawara^ beside the village of Hawdret
el-Makta', with its pretty mosque (route hence to the pyramid, see
below). To the left is a large cemetery, with the graves of sheikhs.
— The railway now again approaches the Bahr Yusuf. The remains
of old embankments which we see from the train date from the
period of the Caliphs. — Stat. Bahr Seileh (Siala). We then cross
the Bahr Seileh el-6ed1d, which diverges from the Bahr Yusuf. The
pyramid of Illahun becomes visible on the left. The train ap-
proaches the margin of the desert. — The station of Bash-Katib
is the starting-point for the pyramid of Illahun (p. 196). — The
train then traverses fertile land to Illah&a or EL-Lahfm (Egypt.
Le-hone, i.e. 'mouth of the canal', see p. 190), a village with 3785
inhab., situated on the right bank of the Bahr Yusuf. Close to the
railway station is the sluice -bridge ('pout re'gulateur') through
which the Bahr Yusuf enters the Faiyum. Beyond the bridge is the
village of Hawdret 'Edldn or 'Eglan, a picturesque place situated
on the water. About 2 M. to the S. W. of Illahun, close to the edge
of the desert, is the ruined town of Medtnet Ouroh, discovered by
Professor Flinders Petrie. It owed its origin to Thutmosis III., who
built a temple here.
2. The Pyramid of Haw&ra, the tomb of Amentmhet III., is
reached from the village of Hawdret el-Makta'' (see above) in about
3/4 hr. The route leads to the N,, through fields, to the desert
plateau on which the pyramid stands. We then cross abridge over
the Bahr Seileh el-Ged7d, which intersects the plateau. The pyramid
consists of crude bricks, and, when its sides were perfect, covered an
area about 116yds. square. The limestone incrustation, however, had
disappeared even in the Roman period. The nucleus of the struc-
ture is a natural mass of rock, 39 ft. in height. The dilapidated
summit is easily reached in a few minutes by a well-worn path.
The entrance to the pyramid, on the S. side (now impassable),
was discovered in 1889 by Prof. Flinders Petrie. An intricate
series of passages in the interior leads to the tomb-chamber in which
Amenemhet III. and his daughter Ptah-nofru were interred.
On the S. the pyramid was adjoined by the large mortuary temple
of Amenemhet. This edifice, however, which served as a quarry for
centuries after the Roman period, has completely vanished, with
the exception of an extensive space strewn with small splinters of
stone and fragments of fine granite and limestone columns. Traces
The FaiyHm. HAWARA. 14. Route. 195
of its walls may be recognized also in the sloping banks of the
Bahr Seileh el-Gedid. There is no donbt that .this edifice was the
famous Labyrinth, of which ancient travellers speak with such
unbounded admiration.
For the best description we are indebted to Strabo, who visited the
Labyrinth in person. He says: 'There is also the Labyrinth here, a work
as important as the Pyramids, adjoining which is the tomb of the king
who bnilt the Labyrinth. After advancing about 30-40 stadia beyond the
first entrance of the canal we reach a table-shaped surface, on which
rise a small tiwn and a vast palace, consisting of as many royal dwellings
as there were formerly nomes. For there is that precise number of courts,
bordered with columns and adjoining each other, all being in the same
row, and forming one building, like a long wall having the courts in front
of it. The entrances to the courts are on the opposite side from the wall.
In front of the entrances are numerous long covered passages, intersect-
ing each other and thus forming such a winding path that a stranger
cannot find his way info or out of each court without a guide. It is a
marvellous fact that each of the ceilings of the chambers consists of a
single stone, and also that the passages are covered in the same way
with single slabs of extraordinary size, neither wood nor other building
material having been employed. On ascending to the roof, the height of
which is inconsiderable as there is only one story, we have a survey of
the flat stone surface consisting of these large slabs. On emerging from
the covered passages we have a view of them e.^tending in one line, each
borne by twenty-.^even monolithic columns. The walls also are constructed
of stones of similar size. At the end of this structure, which is more
than a stadium in length, is the tomb, con.^isting of a square pyramid,
each side of which is four plethra (400 ft.) in length, and of equal height.
The deceased who is buried here is called Imandes. It is asserted that
so many palaces were built because it was the custom for all the nomes,
represented by their magnates, with their priests and victims, to assemble
here to offer sacrifice and gifts to the gods, and to deliberate on the most
important concerns. Each noma then took possession of the hall destined
for it.'
The remains of brick buildings, which still linger on the mounds
of rubbish to the E. of the temple and were erroneously regarded
by Lepsius as remains of the Labyrinth, date from a village of the
Roman period. — To the N. of the pyramid stretches the large Ne-
cropolis used since the period of the Middle Empire by the richer
inhabitants of Shetet-Crocodilopolis (p. 192).
The Return to Medinet el-Faiyiim may be made in 1 V2l"". with-
out again touching Hawaret el-Makta', as follows. We cross the
Bahr Seileh el-Gedid (^p. 194) and ride along its \V. bank for some
distance, next continue in a W. direction through the fields, and
then cro.'s the fllled-in Bahr el-Wadi (p. 191), which is partly culti-
vated and partly covered witli reeds. We next proceed through
desert and fertile land to the village of Kuhdfeh (p. 194), charm-
ingly situated on the Bahr Yusuf, whence we follow the railway-
embankment to the town.
3. The Pyramid of Illahto, the tomb of Seaostris II., is most
easily visited (20mln.) from Bash- Katib (p. 194) or Illahfln (p. 194).
The pyramid is constructed of Nile bricks, piled up upon a rocky
nucleus bearing a star-shaped framework of low walls built of
massive Jimestone blocks.
196 Route U. BIRKET KARDN. The Faiyum.
About V^ M. to the E. of the pyramid of Illahun Pmf. Flinders Petrie
discovered in 1889 the ruins of the town of Hetep-Senwotret CCoatenteA is
Senwosref), which he called Kahun. This town was founded by Sesostris
(Senwosret) II, (12th Dyn.) and had but a brief existence. Numerous
domestic articles were found among the ruined houses.
The Birket Karun (Lake Mceris) and its Environs.
From Medinet el-Faiyum and back, 1-2 days. We take the noon train
to Ebsbuai and go on thence by donkey (5 pias.) or carriage (there and
back 40, including first-class railway fare 60 pias. ; no room for luggage)
to the Hdtel Moeris (see below). Next morning we make an early start
and row to Dimei, returning to Medinet el-Faiyum or Cairo in the after-
noon. — Those who wish to visit also the temple at Kasr Kardii and to
extend the expedition (say for 4 days) cannot dispense' w"ith' a dragoman
(obtained at the Hotel Moeris).
The railway -journey from Medinet el-Faiyiim to (I21/2 M.)
Ebshuai (Ehchawa'i)^ a station on the Wasta-Ahuksa line (pp. 191,
192), takes ca. ll/4hr. Beyond (T^/o M.) Senru (Senaro, Senarov,
Sinaru) lie the ruins of an ancient town.
From Ebshuai a carriage-road leads to the N. , at first through
cultivated land, then crossing the ancient bed of the lake. Various
small water-courses and canals are crossed ; and after a ride of 1 hr.
we reach the hanks of the Birket Karun, which are covered with
reeds and tamarisk shrubs. Here lies the Hotel Moeris, which be-
longs to the owner of the Hotel Karoun in Medinet el - Faiyum
(p. 191) and consists of two ordinary bedrooms and of four sleeping-
tents with two beds each (pens. 80 pias.). Boat on the lake lO
pias. per hr. , 1/2 ^^Y 50, across the lake 80 pias.; bargain necessary) ;
fine views towards sunset.
The Birket Karthi, i.e. 'lake of Karun' (the Hebrew Korah), is
the Lake Moeris of the Greeks (comp. p, 190). It measures 25 M. in
length and, at its broadest part, is barely 6 M. wide. At the ferry
to Dimei the depth is not above 16 ft., but it is said to increase
towards the S.W. The greenish water is slightly brackish and is not
fit for drinking. The N. bank is sterile, but on the S. the cultivated
land often reaches as far as the lake. The right of fishing is let by
government, and the whole of the fishermen on the lake are in the
service of the lessee. Water-fowl are sometimes abundant but are
far too shy to be approached within gunshot.
The lake is crossed with a favourable wind in about 2 hrs. To
the E. appears a considerable peninsula, with rubbish -heaps. In
the lake lies the large island called Oeziret el-Kurn, or 'island of
the horn'. On the N. bank of the lake are barren hills of considerable
height. From the landing-place a somewhat steep path ascends to
the (l"^/4 M.) ruins and temple of —
Dimei (Dimay). The fortified position of this town, named in
antiquity Soknopaiou Nesos, i.e. 'island of Sokuopaios' (a form of
Sobek, the Faiyilm deity), provided a secure point of departure
TheFaiyum. KASR KARUN. 14. Route. 197
for the caravans trading with the oases in tlie Libyan Desert
The ruins cover an area of about 125 acres, A street 400 yds. in
length, formerly embellished with figures of recumbent lions, leads
past well-pre^crved houses to a platform on which an important
temple once stood. This temple, built under the Ptolemies, was
dedicated to Soknopaios (p. 196) and the 'beautifully enthroned
Isis'. The precinct was surrounded by a brick wall, and the temple
itself contaii\ed several apartments, those in the rear being lined
with well-jointed limestone-blocks and those in front having walls
of roughly hewn stone coated with stucco. Very few reliefs have
been found here ; on one appears a Ptolemy praying before a ran-
headed deity (probably Amon).
At the foot nf a steep descent in the Libyan Desert, about 5 M. to
the N. of Dimei, Prof. Schvveinfarth diacovered the small Temple of A'asr
fS-Sdglia. It coiusists of blocks of limestone and contains seven recesses
and several i>ther apartments, but no sculptures or inscriptions. In the
vicinity are remains of an ancient quay.
In the desert, to the E. from the E. bank of the lake and to the N.W.
from Tamiyeh (p. 193), rises the mound oi Kom Us/iim, covering the ruins
of Karanis. a Greek town frequently mentioned in local history, with a
temple of Pnepheros and Petesuchos. — The mound called Umm el-All,
7 31. to the K. of Karanis, marks the site of Bacchias, with a ruined
Greek temple. Both mounds were explored in 1896 by Messrs. Hogarth
and Grenfell, at the expense of the Egypt Exploration Fund.
The ruins marking the site of Kasr Kardn lie at the S. W, end of
the Birket Kariin, We land on the promontory of Khashin KhalU,
which is overgrown with tamarisks and reeds. Ascending thence
across the desert for about an hour, we reach the temple, which is
now 2'/4 M. from the lake, thotigh it originally stood on its bank.
The fishermen object to pass the night here, being afraid of the
Beduins and the 'Afrit (evil spirits).
Kasr Kariin is most conveniently visited from Shawdshneh (El-Cha-
wachhah), a station on the light railway (p. 193).
Kasr Ear<in is a fairly well preserved temple, of the late Pto-
lemaic period. The numerous traces of an ancient town that sur-
round it are probably those of Dionysias, which was situated on the
extreme "W. verge of the Roman province of Egypt, at the beginning
of the caravan-route to the 'Small Oasis' {^Bahriyeh, p. 379). A cir-
cular foundation-wall indicates the site of an ancient cistern. The
walls of the temple consist of carefully hewn blocks of hard lime-
stone. This temple, like almost all the shrines in the oases, was
dedicated to the ram-headed Amon-Ivhnum, as is proved by two
figures of this deity standing at the highest part of the posterior wall
of the upper story of the open roof. The winged sun-disk occurs over
each gateway in the building. There are no ancient inscriptions.
The temple is 21 yds. in width across the faiade and 'J'JV^yds. in length.
The entrance, facing the E., is approached by a lofty and carefully con-
structed platform, 14 yds. in length, forming a forecourt. On the facade
of the temple, to the right (N.) of the entrance-door, is a huge half-column,
forming a relic of a pillared hall. On the lower floor are the apartmentn
198 Route 14. KASR EL-BANAT.
of the temple which were dedicated to worship. In the first three Ante-
rooms the ground slopes down towards the Sanctuary, which waa di-
vided into three small rooms at the back. The sanctuary is flanked by
two narrow passages, each of which is adjoined by three rooms. The ante-
rooms also have adjacent chambers from which we may enter the cellars
or ascend by two flights of steps to the upper floor, with its different apart-
ments, iind thence to the roof, whence we obtain an extensive view of
the remains of the ancient city, of the lake, and the desert. Over the
doors leading into the second and third anterooms and into the sanctuary,
instead of the ordinary concave cornice, there is a series of Urseus-snakes.
To the E. of the large temple are situated two smaller temples,
in tolerable preservation. One of them, which has the same axis
as the large temple, is a kiosque, resembling in ground-plan the
kiosque of Philae (p. 370); the second and larger of the two is
situated 300 paces from tlie smaller. Its walls (18 ft. by 19 ft.)
consist of good burnt bricks and its substructures of solid stone.
The sanctuary terminates in a niche resembling an apse; on each
of the side-walls are two half-columns which, as the fragments
lying on the ground show, belong to the Ionic order.
About 8'/2 31. to the S.E. of Kasr Karun are the ruins of Kasr el-Banat,
the ancient JSuhemeria, including the' remains of a temple of Suchos and
Isis. — About 5 M. to the W. of Kasr el-Banat are the ruins of the an-
cient Philoteris, now known as Wadfa; l^J4 M. to the .S.E., beside the village
of Harit (Batii Harlt), lie the ruins (including a temple of the crocudile-
god Pnepheros) and the necropolis of the ancient TheadelpMa. All these
places, which were founded under the early Ptolemies in the reclaimed
bed of Lake Mceris, have been recently explored by the English travellers
Grenfell and Hunt.
UPPER EGYPT.
Route Page
Preliminary Information 200
15. From Cairo to Luxor by Railway 205
Tell el-'Amarna 211
16. From Cairo to Assiflt by the Nile 224
Benihasan 226
Assiflt 232
17. From Assiu$ to Girgeh and Baliana (Abydos) by the Nile 235
18. Abydos 237
19. From Baliana to Keneh and Luxor by the Nile. Deudera 244
20. Luxor and its Environs: the Site of Ancient Thebes . 251
Topography and History of Thebes 253
A. The East Bank at Thebes :
1. Luxor 257
2. Karnak 262
a. Temple of Khons, 262. — b. Great Temple
of Amon, 264. — c. Northern Buildings, 276.
— d. Southern Buildings, 278.
Excursion to Medamut 281
B. The West Bank at Thebes :
3. The Temple of Sethos I. at Kurna 282
Necropolis of Drah Abu'l Negga 283
4. Biban el-Muliik. Tombs of the Kings .... 284
5. From Biban el-Muluk to Deir el-Bahri and Asasif 299
B. The Ramesseum 306
7. The Tombs of Sheikh 'Abd el- Kurna 309
S. Deirel-Medineh. KurnetMurraT. Queens' Tombs 31G
9. Medinet Habu . .' 322
High Gate or Pavilion of Ramses III., 322. —
Main Temple of Ramses III., 323. — Temple of
the 18th Dynasty, 328.
10. The Colossi of Memnon 330
21. From Luxor to Assuan by Railway 332
El-Kab. Gebel Silsileh ;!83, 338
22. From Luxor to Edfu by the Nile 341
23. From Edfu to Assuan by the Nile. Kom Ombo . . . 348
24. Assuan and its Environs 353
Excursion to Philae and the Nile Dam 362
25. Routes through the Eastern Desert: from Keneh to Abu
Shar el-Kibli; from Keneh to Kos.eir 372
From Redesiyeh to Bereniko. ICmerald Mines in the
wadi Sakeit and on the Gebel Zubara. Gold-mines
of Umm Rus, 376, 377.
26. The Western Oases: Stweh, Babriyah, Farafra, Khargeb,
and Dakhleh '. 378
IUkdkkkr'9 Egypt. 7th Edit. 13
200 UPPER EGYPT. Preliminary
Visitors to the temples and tombs of Upper Egypt and Nubia
should be provided with a Gbnbeal Admission Ticket, which may
be obtained (price £ E 1.20 pias.) at the Museum of Cairo (p. 81),
from Thos. Cook & Son (p. 38), at the office of the Hamburg &
Anglo-American Nile Co. (p. 38), or from the inspectors of the
antiquities at Luxor and Assiiit.
The ordinary traveller, desiring to visit only the principal points
of interest, may ascend the valley of the Nile either by railway or
by steamboat. By Railway not less than a fortnight is required
for a visit to the chief points. Those who use the Toueist Steam-
boats, spending 3 or 4 weeks on the voyage, enjoy a much more
thorough and convenient survey; while the voyage on the Nile has
so many attractions of its own that even the most hurried traveller
should make a point of proceeding by river at least between Luxor
and Assuan. At the same time it must not be forgotten that in
travelling by tourist-steamboat one is a member of a party and
has to surrender some of the free control of one's time. The most
attractive, but also the slowest and most expensive, method of
ascending the Nile is by Dahabitbh (p. 204). — Moonlight adds a
peculiar charm to a visit to the ruins at Luxor and Assuan. It is as
well for the independent traveller to avoid as far as possible com-
ing into contact with the large parties organized by the tourist-
agents, for otherwise circumstances are apt to arise in which he is
pushed to the wall, without any redress.
Railway. Travellers who desire to see as much as possible in a
short time and are impatient of the restrictions of an organized party
may visit Upper Egypt by train. Trains daily from Cairo to Luxor
in 131/4-14 hrs., see R. 15; from Luxor to Assuan in 61/4-83/4 hrs.,
see R. 21. The following scheme, which is recommended to some-
what experienced travellers only, takes about a fortnight and includes
the chief points of interest as far as Assuan.
1st Day. To Minyeh (p. 208). Thence, on the —
2nd Day. Visit the rock-tombs of Benihasan (p. 226) and the
luins of Antinoupolis (p. 209).
3rd Day. Visit Tell el-'Amama (p. 211). Spend the night at
Mellawi (p. 210) or push on to Assiut.
4th Day. AssiHt. Visit the Nile Barrage (p. 232) and the Rock
Tombs (p. 234).
5th Day. SoMg (p. 219). Visit the Bed and White Convents
(p. 220) and make an excursion to Alchmm (p. 220).
6th Day. Baliana (p. 221). Visit Ahydos (p. 237).
7th Day. Keneh (p. 222). Visit Dendera (p. 244).
8-llth Days. Luxor (p. 251). Visits to Karnak (p. 262) and
the W. bank at Thebes (p. 281). Excursion to Esneh (p. 342).
12-14th Days. Via Edfu (p. 343) to Assuan (p. 353). Visit Philae
and the Nile Dam (p. 362). Excursion to Kom Ombo (p. 349).
Information. UPPER EGYPT. 201
An easier plan is as follows. Quitting Cairo by the night-express
we reach Bnliaixa (p. 221) next morning, and ride thence on
donkey-back to Abydos (p. 237). Provisions lor this expedition
must be brought from Cairo. We have sufficient time to explore
the niins at Abydos before catching the evening-traiTi fcr Luxor
(p. 251). At least four days should be devoted to an inspection
of the temples and tombs at Thebes. On leaving Luxor we may
either stop over a train at Edfu (p. 343; which, however, may be
just as well visited on the way back) or proceed straight through
to Assudn (p. 353), where not less than two days should be spent.
If possible, one should devote a day to an excursion to Kom Ombo
(p. 349). We leave Luxor on our return by the first morning-train
and break the journey at Keneh (p. 222), whence we ride to the
temple oiDendera (p. 244). Provisions must be brought from Luxor
for this expedition. From Keneh we go on to Cairo by the north
express. We may visit Dendera also as a day's excursion from Luxor
and take Abydos instead on the return-journey (comp. below).
A Tour of Theee Weeks may be arranged somewhat as follows.
We proceed by railway to Luxor and spend a week there, one day
of which may be devoted to an excursion to Dendera (by train to
Keneh and back). From Luxor we go on by steamer (2 days) or by
railway (1 day) to Assuan, where we spend 5 days, including one
day's excursion to Kom Ombo. We may then return by steamer to
Cairo, or we may take the steamtr to Luxor, make another short
stay there, and go on by train in the morning to Baliana (visit to
the ruins of Abydos') and take the evening-train thence to Cairo.
The railway may be utilized for other excursions bj' travellers who
are to some extent familiar with the customs and language of the country.
The nights may be spent in the station waiting-rooms (with permission
of the station-master) or at the houses of the local headmen ('Omdeh).
Warm rngs and provisions (preserved meats, tea, mineral waters) must
be brought from Cairo.
Steamboats. The steamboat service to Upper Egypt is main-
tained by two companies: Messrs. Thomas Cook i^ Son, the more im-
portant, and the Hamburg i$' Anglo-American Nile Co. — Passengers
by steamer who sleep with the cabin-window open should take care
to have sufficient bedclothes; and it is well to remember (e.g. when
shaving) that the steamers sometimes run aground, especially above
Luxor. Delay through this last fact occasionally necessitates the
completion of the journey to Cairo by railway in order to make
connection with the ocean-steamers.
The best boats of Thomas Cook & Son are the 'tourist-steamers'
Arabia (80 berths), Egypt (80 berths), Barneses the Great (80 berths),
Barneses (79 berths), and Rameses III. (70 berths), after which
rank the Amasis (44 berths) and the Tewfik (46 berths). One of
the above steamers starts once a week during the season, spending
20 days on tlie voyage to Assuan and back. The fare is 621.; for
occupants of the few superior cabins in the stern, specially adapted
13*
202 UPPER EGYPT. Preliminary
for invalids, GOl., and for upper deck suites on the ^Arabia' and
'Egypt' Sbl. These prices include provisions (wine, mineral waters,
etc., excepted), all necessary travelling expenses, donkeys, English
saddles for ladies, boats to cross the river, the services of dragomans
and guides, and bakshish to guides. The donkey-boys, however,
usually look for a small bakshish from the traveller, who is also
expected to bestow a gratuity upon the attendants on board the
steamer. Each traveller is entitled to ship 220 lbs. of personal
luggage; excess luggage is charged at the rate of £ E 1 per llOlbs.
A physician is carried on each steamer, whose services and drugs,
if required, are paid for in addition to the fare. In the season
14-day trips are arranged twice a week at a return-fare of 36 i., the
journey to Assiut and back being made by railway. — Messrs. Cook
have organized also an Express Steamer Service, running once
weekly in Nov. and Dec. and twice weekly from Jan. to March,
between Cairo and Assuan (19 days there and back). The names
of the steamers are Cleopatra, Nefert-Ari, Amenartas, and Hatasoo.
The first three have 32 first-class berths, the last 40 ; all have also
extensive accommodation for steerage-passengers. The return-fares
from Cairo are Ibl. to Assuan and 20l. 5s. to Luxor, including 3-4
days' hotel - accommodation at both places. Excursions on land,
with the services of a dragoman, are included in these fares.
Detailed information as to prices and all other points will be found in
Coolers Programme, published annually and obtainable gratis at any of Cook's
offices: London, Ludgate Circus ; New York, 245 Broadway; Alexandria, Rue
dela Porte de Rosette: Cairo, Cook's Pavilion, next door to Shepheard's Hotel.
Messrs. Cook & Son have agencies also at all river-stations between Cairo
and Assuan, as well as at Haifa and Khartum. — A deposit of half the
fare must be paid on taking a ticket at Cook's offices in Europe. Tickets
are not transferable except with Messrs. Cook's consent. If a traveller be
prevented by exceptional circumstances from joining the steamer for which
he has booked he may proceed with the following steamer if there is a
berth free. After that, however, the ticket becomes invalid, without any
recourse against Messrs. Cook. Combination tickets also allowing part of
the journey to be made by railway are issued (see Programme). — Cook's
Dahabiyehs, see p. 204.
The chief 'tourist-steamers' of the Hamburg & Anglo-American
Nile Co. are the Oermania (66 berths), Victoria (72 berths), Puritan
(72 berths), and Mayflower (54 berths). These make similar three-
weeks voyages between Cairo and Assuan from November to April.
The general arrangements and conditions resemble those of Messrs.
Cook's steamers. The return-fare per person is 45L in double or
oOl. in single cabins. — There is also an express-service every five
days between Luxor and Assuan (fare upstream Al. 5s., downstream
Si. 10s. ; return-fare from Luxor, including stay on board at Assuan
and excursions, Ql. 15s.). Edfu and K6m Ombo are visited on the
voyage upstream, Edfu and Esneh on the voyage downstream.
Programmes may be obtained on application at the offices of the Ham-
burg-American Line in London (15 Cockspur St., S.W.), New York (41 Broad-
way), Cairo (p. 38), Luxor, Assuan, and elsewhere. Combined railway and
steam-boat tickets also are issued. — Dahabiyehs, see p. 204.
Information. UPPER EGYPT. 203
Daily Itinbrary of Cook's Thrkk -Weeks Steamers.
The programme of the Hamburg & Aniilo-American Nile Co. is very
similar.
1st Day. Leave Cairo on Taes. at 10 a.m. (Hamburg & Anglo-
American Nile Co. on Frld. at 4 p.m."), starting above the Kasr
en-Nil Bridge (p. 79). From Bedrashein an expedition is made to
Sakkara (comp. pp. 142 et seq.)- In the evening the steamer pro-
ceeds to El-'Ayat (p. 224: 31 M. from Cairo).
2nd Day. Steam to (IO8V2 M.") Maghagha (p. 225).
3rd Day. Steam to Benihasan. whence the Speos Artemidos and
the tombs of Ameni-em-het and Khnemhotep are visited (comp.
pp. 226 et seq.). — Thence to (177 M.) Roda (p. 231).
4th Day. Steam to (247 M.) Assiut (comp. pp. 231, 232). Visit
the town and neighbourhood (rock-tombs and barrage) in the after-
noon (pp. 232-235).
5th Day. Steam to (310 M.) Sohdg (comp. pp. 235, 236).
6th Day. Steam past Baliann (Abydos is visited on the return
journey) to (3921/2 M.) Deshna (comp. pp. 236, 244).
7th Day. Steam to Keneh, whence the Temple of Dendera (p. 244)
is visited. Thence to (450 M.) Luxor, which is reached towards
evening (comp. pp. 260, 251).
8th Day. Thebes. Excursion to Karnak (4hrs. ; p. 262); in the
afternoon, the Temple of Luxor (p. 257).
9th Day. Thebes. Visit the Tomhs of the Kings (p. 284) and
the Temple of Deir el-Bahri (pp. 299 et seq.). Luncheon is taken
at Cook'.s rest-house, adjoining the temple.
10th Day. Visit the Bamesseum (p. 306), the Temple of Deir
el-Medlneh (p. 316), and the Temple of Medlnet Habu (p. 322).
Return past the Colossi of Memnon (p. 330).
11th Day. Steam to (41/2 lirs.) Esneh (p. 342), where a short
visit to the temple is paid, then (4 hrs. more) to (515 M.) Edfu
(p. 343), where the temple is visited.
12th Day. Steam past Gebel Silsileh (p. 348) to Kom Omho
(1 hr.'s halt; p. 349) and (583 M.) Assuan (p. 353). Visit to the
island of Elephantine (p. 357), with its nilometer and museum,
before dinner.
13th Day. Assuan, its bazaars, etc. (p. 353). The rock-tombs on
the W. bank (p. 368) are best visited in the morning.
14th Day. Expedition to the island of Philae (p. 362) and the
Dam of Assuan (p. 371).
15th Day. The return-voyage is begun. Steam to Luxor.
16th Day. Karnak (p. 262) may be revisited; or the travellers
may inspect West Thebes. As there is no regular programme arrange-
ments should be made the day before with the dragoman or manages
(no extra charge). The steamer starts again at 11 a.m. and reacher
Nag' Hamddi (p. 244) in the evening.
17th Day. Steam to Baliana ; excursion to Abydos (p. 237).
204 UPPER EGYPT.
18th Day. Assiut is reached in the afternoon. Train thence to
Cairo if desired.
19th Day. Steam to Geiel et-Teir (p. 226).
20th Day. Arrival at Cairo. Passengers may remain on board
until after breakfast on the following morning.
Holders of Cook's or the Hamburg & Anglo-American Nile Co.'s
tickets may break their journey at Luxor or Assuan either on the
way up or the way down (after previous arrangement in Cairo), and
proceed by the next steamer, if there are vacant berths. In all these
deviations from the usual tours very strict adherence to the terms
of the special arrangement is exacted.
Dahabiyehs. Travellers to whom independence of action and
economy of time are more important than economy of money may
charter for themselves steam-dahabiyehs or private steamboats (6-
20 berths), which are not much slower than the large tourist-
steamers. But in a sailing-dahabiyeh (4-16 berths), which has to be
towed upstream when the wind is unfavourable, not less than 2 or
3 months must be allowed for the voyage to Assuan and back. In
Cairo the best dahabiyehs, comfortably and even luxuriously fitted
up, are those belonging to Messrs. Cook ^' Son (9 steam-dahabiyehs,
13 sailing dahabiyehs) and the Hamburg ^Anglo-American, Nile Co.
(2 steam-dahabiyehs , several sailing-dahabiyehs). Dahabiyehs are
not usually let for less than a month. The inclusive charge for a
steam -dahabiyeh is about 400-750^. per month according to the
number of passengers. These prices include not only the hire of the
dahabiyeh and its full equipment and the wages of the raiyis or
captain and the crew, but also the services of a dragoman and atten-
dants, as well as provisions (except liquors), donkeys, saddles, and
all the incidental expenses of excursions (excluding bakshish). The
charge for a sailing-dahabiyeh, excluding provisions and all inciden-
tal expenses, is 36-50i. per month. In the case of head- winds
small steam-tugs may be hired for 6-Sl, per day. Further details
will be found in the programmes issued bv the companies.
The traveller may also hire a dahabiyeh directly, i.e. indepen-
dently of the agents , and take the commissariat into his own
hands; but this is not recommended to inexperienced travellers. A
dragoman (p. xxv) is essential. A contract with him must be drawn
up stipu lating for the price and duration of the voyage, the style of
living, the maintenance of the dahabiyeh in a good and efficient
condition, and the providing of a small boat to be at all times at
the disposal of the traveller. A clause should be inserted relieving
the travellers from all responsibility for any damage to the daha-
biyeh or its contents, not due to their fault; and finally both parties
should expressly agree to submit all disputes as to the carrying out
of the contract to the arbitration of the consul in whose presence
it has been signed.
205
15. From Cairo to Laxor by Railway.
Comp. Maps, j^p. 231, 214.
4t6V.:M. Railway in l3'/4-14 hrs. (fares £ E 2.G, £ E 1.3, bi^j-i pias.);
two thron;ih-trains daily. In April-Nov. the night-trains on Men., Wed.,
it: Sat. (returning from Luxor on Tues., Thurs., & Sun.) are provided with
restaurant and sleeping cars. A 'train de luxe' rnns on Mon., Wed., & Sat.
in Dec, daily in Jan., Feb., and March (1st cl. only; supplementary fare
£E 1; '2nd el. for passengers'' servants), with restaurant and sleeping
cars. — Although there are buffets at the chief stations, travellers are
recommended to provide themselves with a supply of meat, bread, and
wine; no stoppage is made for dinner. Melons, oranges, cheese, sugar-cane,
eggs, bread, and water (better avoided) are offered for sale at all the stations.
The Pyramids are seen on the right, but afterwards, beyond Minyeh,
the best views are on the left (Nile Valley and Benihasan).
From Cairo to C^Oi/o M.) Bedrashein, see p. 143.
Farther on we have a view, to the right, of the Pyramids of
Dahshur, including the large Stone Pyramid, the Blunted Pyramid,
and the small Brick Pyramids (pp. 166, 167). To the left are the
Nile and an Arab village shaded hy palm-trees. — 28 M. Mazghuna;
ae'/o M. El-'Aydt (p. 2'243. — 4OV2 M- FA-Matdnyeh. To the W., on
the edge of the desert, are the pyramids of Lisht ; that to the N. is
the tomb of Amenemhet I. (12th Dyn.), that to the S. the tomb of
his successor Sesostris I. Excavations are being carried on here by
the Metropolitan Museum of New York. — 45'/2 M. Kafr Ahmar,
61 72 M- Rikka (El-Riqqa, Rekkah) is the starting-point for the
excursion to the finely shaped Pyramid of Meidum.
A 'Visit to JIeiuOm may be accomplished in about 5 hrs. on donkey-
back. Crossing the railway, we proceed in about l'/4 hr. to the pyramid,
which rises on the soil of the desert close to the cultivated country and
IV2 M. to the K.W. of the village of MeidAin.
The Pyramid of Ueidiim, in all probability the unfinished and never
used tomb of Snofru, the predecessor of Kheops, is so different from all
the other structures of the kind that it is called by the Arabs El-Haram
tl-Kadddb, or the False Pyramid. It consists of three (originally seven)
square receding stories, which rise to a height of 214 ft. 8 in. in smooth
and steei) stages at an angle of 74' lO". The first section is 81 ft. 6 in., the
second 98 ft. 11 in., while the third, now almost entirely destroyed, is
84 ft. 3 in. in height. The outer walls consist of admirably jointed and
polished blocks of limestone. The examinations by Maspero and Petrie
prove that the Pyramid of Meidvlm was pillaged as early as in the time of
the 20th Dynasty. On its E. side is the small Mortuary Temple of Snofru,
now again covered up. This temple, built of blocks of limestone, consists
of two bare chambers leading to an open court immediately adjoining
the pyramid. The mu.stabas, or tombs of courtiers and officials of Snofru,
to the N. and E. of the pyramid, are now likewise covered with sand.
On the E. bank of the Nile, opposite Rikka and about 1 1/2 M. from
the river, lies the hamlet of Atfih (4300 inhab.), on a canal, with
some mounds of earth and debris representing the ancient Aphrodi-
topolis, named after Hathor-Aphrodite, who was worshipped here.
The Egyptian name of the town was Tep-yeh or Per-Hathor nebt Tep-yeh,
i.e. 'House of Hathor, mistress of Tep-yeh\ whence the shortened Coptic
Petpeh and Arabic Atfih. Strabo states that a white cow, sacred to Hathor,
was worshipped here.
In the Christian period (ca. 310 A.D.) Aphroditopolis gained some eel-
206 Route 15. BENISUEIF. From Cairo
ebrity from Si. Anthoni/, who fixed his hermitage in the mountains to the
E. of the town, beside a well and a group of palms. So many pilgrims
of every class, age, and sex sought out the holy man, that a regular post-
ing route, with relays of camels, was laid out across the desert. St. An-
thony, however, fled from his admirers and buried himself deeper in the
mountains. But while he thus shook off his earthly visitants, he could
not so easily escape those extraordinary tempters from spirit-land, at which
Callot has taught us to smile, though to St. Anthony himself, as well as
iO St. Hilarion and other anchorites, the contest was one of bitter earnest.
57 M. El-Wasta (p. 225; short halt"). Passengers hound for
the Faiydm change carriages here (p. 1913. El-Wasta, a district-
capital with 2644inhah., is pleasantly situated in a grove of palms
and is surrounded with fields of clover. To the right is the great
harrage of Kosheisheh. — 63 M. Beni Hodeir. — Near (67 M.) Ashment
(Achemant), to the right, appears the small hlack pyramid of Illahun
(p. 195). The Arabian hills rise on the left.
About 3 hrs. to the N.W. of Ashment is the village of Abusir el-Kelek,
the 'Northern Abydos' of the Egyptians, containing extensive ancient
cemeteries. In the vicinity is the tomb of Merwan II. (p. cxiv).
72V2 M. Bush {Bouche; p. 225), inhabited by Gopts.
77 M. Benisueif or Beni Suef (Continental Hotel, kept by a
Greek, R. 10 pias., very fair, tolerable restaurant opposite) is a
town of 23,357 iuhab., pleasantly situated between the railway
and the river. It contains a post and telegraph office and is the
capital of a province, which contains 171 villages and 372,412 in-
habitants. To the left of the rail, station is the Mudiriyeh. The
linen-manufacture for which this place was celebrated in the middle
ages has greatly declined, but several factories, numerous sugar-
plantations, and a small bazaar still lend the town a certain im-
portance. To the left of the railway is a fine grove of palms.
On the right bank of the Bahr Yusuf, 10 M. to the W. of Benisueif,
lies the village of Ahndsia el-JIJedineh (vulgo , Ahndsia Umm el-Kirndn,
'rubbish-heaps of Ahnasia'), beside the mounds of debris, covering an
area of 1/2 sq. M., which mark the site of the ancient Heracleopolis.
The Egyptian name of the town was ffenm-nesui, from which are derived
the Coptic ffries, and the Arabic Ahnas and Ahnasia. It was the capital
of a nome (the GrcEco-Roman Heracleopolites) and the chief seat of the
worship of the ram-headed god Herishef, identified by the Greeks with
Heracles (whence the name of the town). The ichneumon also was re-
vered here. Among the chief shrines were a temple erected under the Middle
Empire and a new building by Ramses II., but all have practically van-
ished ; four columns of a late period, probably dating from a Byzantine
church, are all that projects above the rubbish-heaps. The ancient necro-
polis lies on the W. side of the Bahr Yusuf near Sedment el-Gebel.
A road beginning at the village of Bidd (Bidd en-Nasdra), on the
E. bank of the Nile, opposite Benisueif, leids through the desert (36 hrs.
by camel) to the very ancient Convents of SS. Anthoni/ and Paul (p. liv),
situated about 25 M. from the Red Sea.
9OV2 M. Blbeh (Biha), a district-capital (10,156 inhab.) with
large sugar-factories (comp. p. 225), is the junction of a secondary
line running parallel with the main line on the W. bank as far as
Maghagha. At Bibeh is a Coptic convent with a tall bell-tower.
Our railway is skirted on the right by the Ibrdhtmlyeh Canal.
to Luxor. BEHNESA. 75. Route. 207
At Desh&sheh (Dechachah), beyond the Balir Yusuf, on the edge of
the desert, 14 M. to the N.W. of Bibeh (about 6 hrs.' ride on donkey-
back), arc the tombs of Inti and Shetu (5lh Dyn. ; examined by Flinders
Petrie in 1897), containing: interesting sculptures of battle-scenes, a siege,
etc. As the tombs are kept locked visitors should not forget to obtain
the keys beforehand from the inspector of the Service des Antiquitcs at
^ledinet el-Faiyum (p. 191), whence also Dcshasheh may be conveniently
reached via Kalanisha (see p. 193).
99 M. Feshn (Fashn, Fachen), a district-capital with 11,364
inhab., is the junction of a secondary line to Maghagha (see helow).
To the S.E., a little above Feshn, at the village of El-Hibeh, are the
ruins of an ancient town. The town-walls, several yards in thickness and
still in eood preservation, were built under the 21st Dyn., as is proved by
numerous bricks stamped with the names of Princess Est-em-kheh and her
husband ifen-kheper-ri, or of their son Pinotem (II.). high-priest of Amon.
— AVithin the walls, picturesquely situated among palmg, arc the ruins of
a temple, built by Shoshenk I. and Osorkon 1. (2'2nd Dyn.).
104 M. Fant. — 112 M. Magh&gha (p. 225), a district-capital
with 8596 inhab. and a sugar-factory, is the junction for branch-
railways to Feshn (N. ; see above) and to Matai (S.; see below).
Thrice a month a camel-post leaves Maghagha for (3-4 days) the oasis
of Bahriyeh (p. 379), which is connected with Behnesa by another desert-
route (comp. below). — Opposite Maghagha, about 12-20 M. to the E. of the
Nile, near the wide Wddi eth-Slieikh, are some prehistoric Flint Factories,
discovered by Lt. H. W. Seton-Karr in 1896.
To the E. rises the Oehel SheUch Embarak{-p. 225). — At Sharuna
[Charounah; E. bank) are tombs of the end of the 0th Dynasty.
Near Kom el-Ahmar, to the S., are a ruined temple of Ptolemy I,,
and rock-tombs of the Saite period, belonging to the town of Hel-
7iesut, in the Cynopolitan nome. The train approaches the river.
122 M. Beni Mazar is a district-capital with 8409 inhab. (p. 226).
About I'/o M. to the S.W. lies the hamlet of El-Keis, Egypt. Kais,
whose local deity was Anubis, and which probably oc(;upie3 the
site of Cynopolis, capital of the province under the Greeks.
About G'/iM. to the W. of r.eni Mazar, on the Bafir YHiuf (must con-
veniently reached by the branch-line to Sand a/a in abjut 1 hr.), lies the
town of Behnesa (Bahnasa), on the site of the ancient Oxyrhynchos (Egypt.
Permezet. Coptic Pemje, Greek IHhtitt)), once the c:ipital of a nome but now
represented only by a few desolate heaps of di'bris. The fish Oxyrhyn-
ehuf, a species of mormyrus (Arab. Mizdeh), was worshippe 1 here, in the
neighbouring town of Cynopolis the dog was held in equal honour, and
Plutarch relates how a 'very pretty quarrel', the settlement of which
required the intervention of the liomans, arose between the two towns,
be'^ause the citizens of each had killed and dined on the sacred animals
of the other. On the introdaction of Christianity Oxyrhynchos became
a veritable town of monks. In (he town itself were 12 churches and all
round it convent jostled convent. In the 5th cent, the diocese of Oxyrhyn-
chos is said to have contained 10,000 monks and 12,000 nuns. In the
Mameluke period it was still of some importance, but it has since steadily
declined. Excavations begun here in 1397 by Grenfell and Hunt have
yielded large quantities of Greek, Coptic, and Arabic papyri. — From
Behnesa a desert-route leads in 4 days to the oasis of Bahrdjeh (p. 379).
Reyond (129 M.)Mat§.i, with a large sugar-factory, a handsome
bridge crosses a canal. Mitai is the junction of the secondary line
to Maghajha (see above) and Miiiyeh (p. 20'3). — 134 M. Koloma
208 Route 16. MINYEH. From Cairo
(Qolosna; p. 226) is situated between the Nile and the Ihrahimiyeh
Canal; opposite, on the E. bank of the Nile, is the village of Es-
Sarinyeh (p. 226). Our line crosses the Abu Bakara Canal, which
diverges from the Nile. — 138 M. SamS.11it is a district-capital
(8178 inhab.) on the Ibrahimiyeh Canal, with sugar- factories,
palms, and fields of clover. On the E. bank rises the massive
Oebel et- Teir (p. 226), forming a picturesque background for the
numerous sails on the Nile. Extensive cotton-fields are passed,
then sugar-plantations, and rich vegetation.
144 M. Etsa. On the E. bank of the Nile lies Tehna el-Gebel, a
village with 2108 inhabitants.
To the S. of the village is the Kom, or mound, virith the ruins of the
ancient city of Tenii, also known as Acoris, belonging to the nome of
Hermopolis. To the S. of this is a ridge 65-SO ft. in height, with some
early- Egyptian Rock Tombs which were again used in the Greek period.
One Sepulchral Chapel, containing some representations of a late date, is
interesting. A Greek or Roman grandee is here shown sacrificing to a
number of Egyptian deities. The only inscriptions extant are on the inner
side of the door. Higher up on the rock-walls are two horses in the Roman
style, held by men. The rock tombs farther to the S. belong to the Ancient
Empire. A colossal image carved out of the rock represents Ramses III.
sacrificing to the gods Sobek and Amon. — In the valley between the
rocky ridge just mentioned and the Arabian Mountains, to the N. of the
Mohammedan cemetery, lie a Graeco-Roman and a Christian necropolis.
153 M. Minyeh (^Minia, Minieh; Buffet and clean waiting-rooms
at the station; Hotel de Minieh, pens. 45 pias., very fair; Palace
Hotel, near the Nile gardens, pens. 40 pias. ; Hot. du Nil, Or. -Hot.
Pacha Kamel, R. 10 pias.), a flourishing town with 27,221 inhab.,
lies between the Ibrahimiyeh Canal and the Nile, which is here over
V2 M. broad. The Shari' el-Mahatta leads from the station to the
town. A handsome bridge, with locks, spans the canal. Market-day
(Mon.) in Minyeh presents a very gay and characteristic picture
of oriental life. The mudiriyeh of Minyeh (750 sq. M.) includes
269 villages and 659,967 inhabitants. Minyeh is connected by
branch-lines with Matai (p. 207) and Roda (p. 209). For the ex-
cursion to Benihasan, see p. 209.
Opposite Minyeh, on the E. bank, lies Koin el-Kef ara, with
tombs of the Middle Empire. Farther to the S., 4^2 M- above
Minyeh, is situated Zdwiyet el-Meilln (Zdwiyet el-Amwdt). To the S.
of the village lies the cemetery of the citizens of Minyeh, with its
numerous domed tombs and chapels. Faithful to the custom of
their ancestors under the Pharaohs, the inhabitants still ferry their
dead across the river and bury them near the ancient necropolis.
A few minutes' walk towards the S. brings us to the large
mound of rubbish known as Kom el-Ahmar ('the red mound'),
which runs parallel with the Nile. Climbing over this, we reach
the ancient Bock Tombs of the princes and grandees of Hebenu,
which date mainly from the end of the Ancient Empire. They are
unfortunately in bad preservation, and some of them have been
to Luxor. RODA. 15. Route. 209
destroyed by violence. The most interesting are those of Khunes
and of Nefer-sekheru, superintendent of the storehouses of Dpper
and Lower Egypt, under the New Empire.
At Nueirat (El-Neweirat), a village farther to the S., are some
small rock-tombs belonging to the beginning of the Ancient Empire.
Excursion to Bbnihasan, 15 M. (.see p. 226). The traveller hires an
a.'^s at Minyeh (ca. 20 pias.) and, making an early start (not fDrgetting
provisions and water), ferries to the right bank of the Nile (fare, incl. ass,
ca. 20 pias.), which he ascends via Zdwiyet el-ileitin (p. 2()8) and K6m el-
Ahmar (p. 2u8). Instead of returninq; the same way he should continue to
follow the right bank of the Nile to the (10i/'.> M.) Ruins of Antitioupolis
(see below), visit the temple of Ramses there, and cross the river thence to
RO(la (sec below), whence the train may be taken to Minyeh. This is a
long but interesting day's journey.
On the bank of the Nile rises a lofty grove of palms. The vegeta-
tion is luxuriant. To the E. appear the hills of Zawiyet el-Meitin
and K6m el-Ahmar (p. 208), with a sheikh's tomb at the farther
end. Low rugged hills are seen on the left and a plain on the
right. — 160 M. Mansafis. — From (16G M.) Abu Kerkas (Ahu
Quryas), a district-capital (6855 inhab.) with a sugar-factory, we
obtain a view of Benihasan (p. 2261. — 170 M. Etlidem.
177 M. Boda is a considerable place (8263 inhab.), with post
and telegraph offices and a sugar-factory. The nearest night-quar-
ters, however, are at Mellawi (p. 210) or Minyeh (p. 208; branch-
railway). About 4 M. inland, between the Ibrahimiyeh Canal and the
Bahr Yusuf and on a narrow-gauge line from Roda (which may bo
used in one direction at least), is the village of El-Ashmuneln
(accessible also from Mellawi). Close to the station of the light
railway lie the ruins of the once famous city of Khmunu (Coptic
Shmun], the HermopoUs of the Greeks, which from a very remote
period was the chief seat of the worship of Thout, the god of writing
and science. Numerous papyri of the Roman and Byzantine periods
have been discovered here. This town was also the capital of the
hare-nome, in Upper Egypt, whose princes under the Middle
Empire were buried on the E. bank of the Nile near Deir el-Bersheh
(see p. 210).
Several granite columns, probably belonging to the colonnade of the
Greek Agora, are still standing. To theN.W., beyond the grove of palms,
are the considerable relics of the pylon and the court of a sanctuary built
by Amenephtlies. Still f.irther to tlie N. are the ruins of a temple of Philippus
Arrhidceus. — At Tuiieh el-Gebel, on the opposite bank of the Bahr Yusuf,
are the extensive necropolis of the ancient city and two rock-inscriptions
(much dilapidated) of Ameaophis IV. (comp. p. 211).
Opposite Koda, on the E. bank, amid palms, lies the village of
Sheikh' Abddeh, to the E. of which are the ruins of Antinoupolis or
Antino'e, the town erected by Hadrian in 130 A.D. in honour of his
favourite Antinous. The handsome youth is said to have drowned
himself here, to fulfil the oracle which predicted a heavy loss to the
emperor and so to prevent a more serious disaster. The remains of
a Temple of Ramsei II., the relic of an earlier foundation on this
site, may be traced to the N. of Sheikh 'Abadeh; of this only the
210 Route 15. MELLAWI. From Cairo
columns of the forecourt and the main hall project from the rubhish-
lieaps. The vestiges of public buildings are now exceedingly scanty,
though the French Expedition saw a triumphal arch, a theatre, and
streets flanked with columns. Granite columns and capitals lie
scattered about. Near the ruins of a large building on the road
running to the E. from the mosque lies a broken marble basin,
■which must have had a diameter of about 10 ft. The Roman and
Christian cemeteries have recently been much injured.
To the S. of Sheikh 'Abadeh we reach Deir Abu Hennes (Con-
vent of St. John), called also simply Ed-Deir., a village on the E.
bank inhabited by about 2000 Copts. Near it is a ruined town of
the Christian epoch, known as El-Medineh. On the N. side of a
ravine in the hill behind the village are many ancient cave-like
quarries, which were litted up at an early date as Christian chapels
or anchorites' dwellings. The largest Chapel, in which divine service
is held, may be reached from the village in 1 hr.; it is said to date
from the time of the Empress Helena and contains paintings of saints
and scenes from the New Testament, but those in the neighbouring
Chapel (Raising of Lazarus, Marriage at Cana, etc.) are better. —
Deir el-Bersheh (^see below) is within ^/2^t. of Deir Abu Hennes.
Immediately beyond Roda the mountains on the E. bank recede
farther from the river. During the sugar-cane harvest, in the begin-
ning of February, this region presents a busy scene.
181 1/2 M. Mellawi (^Mallawi; modest Inn at the station, R.
8 pias.), a district-capital on the W. bank of the Ibrahimiyeh Canal,
with 20,260 inhab., has a frequented market on Sundays.- In the
vicinity are many palms. To the left we have a view of the E, range
of hills, in which are the tombs of El-Bersheh (see below) and
Sheikh Sa'id (p. 231). A shady route, skirting a canal, leads hence
in about i^/ohx. to Ashmunein and the ruins of Hermopolis (p. 209).
Opposite Mellawi, on the E. bank, a little way from the river,
lies the Coptic village of Deir el-Bersbeh. Beside a Coptic cemetery
to the E. begins a desert-ravine, running N.W. and S.E., and named
Wddi en-Nakhleh or Wadi el-Bersheh^ in the steep sides of which are
numerous quarries and ancient tombs. The valley is chiefly noted
for the rock-tombs in its N. slope, constructed under the Middle
Empire by the princes of the 'hare-nome' (p. 209), which included
this region. The only one that need be visited is —
Tomb 2, belonging to Thuti-hotep, son of Kai, prince of the
nome in the reigns of Amenemhet II. and Sesostris II. and III,
This tomb is constructed in the same way as the tombs at Benihasan.
The Vestibule, originally supported by two palm-columns, has fallen
in. A door leads hence to the Inner Chamber, the walls of which
were embellished with reliefs, now partly destroyed. On the Left
Wall is a scene representing the transportation of a colossal statue
of the deceased from the quarries of Het-nub (p. 218) to a temple.
The inscription informs us that the statue was of alabaster and
to Luxor. TELL EL-'AMARNA. 15. Route,. 211
13 ells (21 ft.) in height. It is securely fastened with ropes upon
a wooden sledge, which is drawn by four rows of workmen with
43 men in each. A priest precedes the statue scattering incense. On
the prow of the sledge stands a man pouring water on the ground to
prevent the heavily loaded sledge from taking fire by friction; and
on the lap of the figure is another man clapping his hands, probably
the leader and fugleman of the song of the workmen, whose task was
facilitated by rhythmical movement. Below are other workmen
carrying water and a beam; and behind the statue are foremen and
other officials. At the top are companies of people with branches in
their hands, hastening to meet the procession. To the extreme left
stands Thuti-hotep, followed hy his body-guard, observing the
spectacle.
Below the rock-tombs are Tombs of the Ancient Empire, Shaft
Tombs of the Middle Empire, and numerous tombs of the Ptolemaic
period. Opposite, on the S. side of the valley, is a large Quarry,
which, according to a now defaced inscription, yielded stone in the
first year of Amenophis III. for the temple at Hermopolis. Farther
up the valley are quarries of the time of Nektanebos.
188 M. Deir Maiods (Deir-Moes). The village is on the other side
of the Ibriihimiyeh Canal; the hamlet beside the station is called
Hasabiyeh, On the E. bank are the ruins of Tell el-'Amama which
are visited hence.
Tell el-'Amama.
From Deir Mawas we may walk or ride via the villa'^e of Beni 'Amrdn
to the (20 min.) bank of the Nile, across which we ferry (5 pias.) to £t-TiU,
where the keeper of the N. tombs lives, or to Ilagg-Kandil (see below),
where the keeper of the S. tombs lives. Donkey, 10-15 piastres.
Tell el-'Amarna [or El- Amama^, a name derived from the
Beni 'Amran or El-'Amama Beduins, is the name now given to the
extensive ruins and rock-tombs which lie near the villages of Hagg-
KandU on the S. and Et-Tdl on the N., and form the last relics of
the ancient royal ciiyEkhet-Aton, 'the horizon of the sun'. Extensive
excavations are being carried on here by the German Orient Society,
(see p. 212) whose office is situated near Hagg-Kandil.
When Amenophis IV. (p. cii) became converted to the ex-
clusive worship of the sun and abjured the ancient gods, he quitted
Thebes, the capital until that time, and withdrew with his court to
a new sacred spot. This was situated in the Hermopolitan nome in
Upper Egypt, on both banks of the Nile, and its boundaries may be
traced to this day by 14 inscriptions chiselled on the rocks near
El-Hawata {jp. 231), at the N. and S. groups of tombs, at Sheikh
Sa'fd (p. 231 ; all on the right bank), and near Tuneh el-Oebel (p. 209),
Derweh, and Gildeh (left bank"). The new royal residence-town was
founded on the E. bank and speedily prospered. Temples and palaces
212 Route 15. TELL EL-'AMARNA. From Cairo
sprang up, beside the imposing royal abode arose the dwellings of
the nobles, and lordly tombs were prepared for the king and his
favourites in the hills to the east. But after the death of Amenophis
the ancient religion once more obtained the upper hand, the court
returned to Thebes, and the new town rapidly decayed. Its life
had not lasted for more than 50 years, and the site upon which it
stood was never again occupied. Owing to this circumstance the
ancient streets and ground -plans have remained to this day and
may be traced with little trouble (comp. below). The religious re-
volution under Amenophis IV. was accompanied by a revolution in
art. The artists who worked in his reign, probably feeling them-
selves more independent of ancient traditions, attempted to lend
their creations a more natural expression. In many cases, however,
they fell into exaggeration, as, for example, in the representations
of the lean form of the king. The tombs of El-'Amarna contain the
best examples of this realistic tendency and are, therefore, of great
importance in the history of art.
About 1/2 hr. to the N, of Et-Till are the ruins of the city and
ot the Palace of Amenophis IV. Its fine stucco pavements, discov-
ered by Flinders Petrie in 1891-92, were ruthlessly destroyed in
1912 (fragments in the museum at Cairo, see p. 86). — To the E.
lay the Archives, in which in 1888 the celebrated clay tablets of
Tell el-'Amarna with cuneiform inscriptions were found (now in
the British Museum and the museums of Berlin and Cairo; comp.
p. 89); these are letters written to kings Amenophis III. and IV.
by Babylonian and other kings of W. Asia and by Syrian and Phoe-
nician vassals, and are of the greatest historical value. — The por-
tion of the city that has, so far, been excavated by the German Orient
Society lies l^/o M. to the N. of the office (p. 211), where permission
to visit the excavations is obtained. If time permit, the traveller
should see the well-preserved i7o«se of the High Priest Pe-tvoh,
affording as it does a typical example of the ground-plan of an
upper-class Egyptian dwelling-house (comp. pp. clxi, clxii). He
may visit also the House of a Farm-Bailiff, where the laying-out of
the garden is still recognizable, the House of the Sculptor Thutmose,
with workmen's dwellings, and lastly a large granary. Some of the
houses have well-preserved bathrooms and lavatories.
From the palace we proceed to the N.E., passing the site of the
Great Temple, and in 8/4 hr. we reach the North Group of Tombs.
The rock-tombs of Tell el-''Ainarna are essentially the same in point
of structure as the tombs of the 18th Dyn. at Thebes (p. 309). Each is im-
mediately preceded by a Forecourt, which w;is generally surrounded by a
brick wall. Thence a wide door admits to the Main Chaniber, the roof of
which is in many cases supported by columns. The Chamber containing
the statue of the deceased is next reached, either by another door, or by
a corridor which frequently leads first to a narrow antei-oom. Many of
the tombs are unfinished, in consequence of the death of Amenophis IV.
and the subsequent return of the court to Thebes. — The tombs (in bolh
groups) are marked with black numbers (1-25), running from N. to S.
to lAuror. TELL EL-'AMARNA. 15. Route. 213
Tomb 1 belonged to Huye, superintendent of the royal barem
and steward to the queen-mother Teye. In the entrance is the de-
ceased praying. The Main Chamber has two clustered columns, of
which, however, only that on the left side is standing. Entrance
Wall. To the right arc the king and queen seated at table, below
the queen are two princesses facing each other, to the right are
guards, etc. Here, as in all similar representations in the tombs
at Tell el-'Amarna, the sun appears above the royal couple, with
rays ending in hands. Below are musirians, a table with offer-
ings, bowing servants, soldiers, etc. Right Wall. A temple of the
sun is represented with the chief altar in the colonnaded court and
statues ; to the right the king, escorted by guards behind and below,
leads his mother to the temple dedicated to the king's parents,
Amenophis III. and Teye; above is the sun with the rays ending
in hands. Rear Wall. This is occupied, on each side of the door,
by two companion-scenes (much injured), showing Amenophis III.
and IV., with their consorts. Left Wall. The king is being carried
to a reception -hall (right) in order to receive the tribute of his
subject nations; he is accompanied by a large retinue. Entrance
Wall. To the left, a scene resembling that to the right (see above)
— On both walls of the door to the next room the deceased appears
in prayer. The following chamber (unfinished) contains the mummy-
shaft, surrounded by a parapet hewn in the solid rock. — In the Last
Chamber (shrine) is a recess with the colossal seated figure of the
deceased, the features of which have been defaced. On the walls
are burial scenes, mourners, men with sacrificial gifts, a carriage,
chairs, etc.
Tomb 2, belonging to Meri-re, another superintendent of the
royal harem, deserves special attention because its construction was
still going on under Sake-re, the son-in-law and successor of Amen-
ophis IV. The Main Chamber has two columns; the rear chambers
are unfinished. Among the representations in the former the following
may be mentioned. On the Entrance Wall. To the left is the king
seated under a canopy holding a goblet, which the queen is filling
with water; adjacent stand three princesses. To the right, the king
and queen, in a balcony, are handing down golden ornaments to the
deceased; while in the forecourt of the palace (r.) are the royal
chariot and fan-bearers and the secretaries and servants of Meri-re:
below are represented the return of Meri-re and his welcome at his
own house. Right Wall, The king and queen seated under an
elevated canopy receive the tributes of the Asiatics (left) and ne-
groes (right); other captives do homage to the king.
The other tombs lie 3/^ M. to the S.E., on another hill-slope.
Tomb 3, belonging to Ahmose, 'fan-bearer on the right hand of
the king", may be visited by travellers with abundance of time.
Over the entrance-door is the deceased worsbipping tbe names of tbe
son; to tbe right and left within the duor be appears praying in hi.s ofli-
214 Route 16. TELL EL-'AMARNA. From Cairo
cial costume (with fan and axe). On the Left Wall of the Mais Chambee
the royal family is thow n at a banquet in a hall cf the palace; above
are four rows of soldiers, armed with shields and spears, etc., marching
to the temple, followed by the royal chariot (merely sketched in red
pigment). The Side Chambers, on each side of the corridor, contain
mummy-shafts, and on the side-walls are door-shaped steles. In the last
room is a statue of the deceased.
Tomb 4, one of the largest and most interesting, belonged to
Meri-re, high-priest of the sun. The reliefs are now rather dark
and require to he well lighted. — This tomb is preceded by a
spacious court. The entrance-door is embellished with a concave
cornice and, on its inner side, with a representation of the deceased
in prayer. It admits us to a Vestibule, on the Right and Left Walls
of which are door-shaped steles, with the deceased praying in front
and large nosegays of flowers behind. The other walls are covered
with inscriptions. — The Main Chambee. beyond was originally
borne by four columns, of which two remain. In the doorway, to the
right is the deceased, to the left his wife, praying. Entrance Wall,
to the left. The king throws down gold to Meri-re from the balcony
of the palace. Left Wall. The scenes here represent the king driving
in his chariot from the palace (on the left, above) to the temple
of the sun (see below), preceded by his guards and followed by the
queen, princesses, and retinue in chariots and on foot. The relief
is continued on the Left Half of the Rear Wall, which exhibits the
temple of the sun, at the entrance of which priests, in humble atti-
tude, and musicians await the king. Right Wall (the reliefs contin-
ued along the Right Half of the Rear Wall). Above is the king
visiting the temple; below, Meri-re Is being adorned with golden
chains in the presence of the king and queen; to the left are the
royal barns and storehouse. Entrance Wall, to the right. The king
and queen, accompanied by their two daughters, offer sacrifices to
the sun ; Meri-re and another priest stand beside the altars. Below
are the royal retinue and priests; at the bottom, to the right, is a
charming representation of blind singers. — The two following
rooms are unfinished.
Tomb 5, of Pentu, a physician, is much damaged. On each side of
the entrance is the deceased praying, with an inscription in front of him
containing a hymn to the sun. On the Left Wall of the first chamber are
the king and queen praying to the sun, which rises over the pylon of the
temple. The deep mummy-shaft is in the side-passage to the right. The
statue of Pentu, which stood in the last room, has been chiselled away. —
A little to the S.E. is —
Tomb 6, of Penehse. In the Entrance Boor, to the left, are the king
and queen followed by their three daughters and the queen's sister, praying
to the sun; below is a row of servants, fan-bearers, and other attendants;
at the foot, the deceased praying. On the right are similar scenes. The
JIain Chamber originally contained four papyrus-columns with bud-capitals,
of which two still remain. The false door on the rear wall to the left
has been converted into a kind of font, probably when the tomb was
used as a church. A flight of steps on the right leads to the sarcophagus -
chamber. Entrance Wall (to the left). The king and queen hand Penehse
golden ornaments from the balcony of the palace. On the Left Wall, at
the top, to the left, appears the temple of the sun, with the king praying
tn Luxor. TELL EL-'AMARNA. 15. Route. 215
at an altar in the forecourt. Entrance Wali (to the rii^ht). The deceased
and his attendants bring offerings to the royal consorts, who are ac-
companied by four princesses. — A door with a representation of the
(lecea'ieil and his sister leads to a Second Room with four columns, contain-
ing the niche which held the statue of the deceased (now chiselled away).
A visit should be paid also to thti Boun'turif Inscription {comj). p. 211),
which is engraved on a clifl' about li/j Jf. to the K. of Toml) 6.
The S. Group of Tombs is situated about 3 M. due S., amid
the low spurs of the Gehel Abu Hasdr. Eighteen have been opened
(keeper, see p. 211).
Farthest to the N. is Tomb 8. tlie grave of Tutu.
On the Door Posts the deceased is represented praying, while his name
and titles are inscribed above. In the boortcay, to the left, are the king
and queen sacrificing: to the sun; below, the deceased kneels in prayer.
To the Ti\iht is the deceased prayin'j:. The Main (yiiAMBEE had its ceiling
originally supported by twelve columns arranged in two rows (eight still
stand); the ccdunins in the rear row are united by low stone screens
with cornices, and between the central pair gate-posts are set to mark
the entrance. A llight of steps on the left leads to the sarcophagus-chamber.
In the two short side-walls are small, partly unfinished recesses with
statues. Entrance Wall. On the right the king and queen look on from the
balcony of the palace (represented on the left), while Tutu is being adorned
with golden chains; beneath is the deceased in prayer. To the left the
royal pair are seated in the palace, with Tutu and other courtiers in
respectful attitudes before them ; beneath is the deceased in prayer. — The
Corridor is unfinished.
Immediately adjoining is Tomd 9, belonging to Mahu, an officer
of the police. In the Entrance, to which a narrow flight of steps
descends, are, to the left, the king (holding the hieroglyphic for
'truth' towards the sun), the queen, and a princess, with sistra, in
presence of the sun; beneath kiuiels the deceased, with the text of
his prayer inscribed in front of him. To the right is the deceased
in prayer. — We next enter the Main Chaimheu. Entrance Wall
(left half). The king stands on the balcony of the palace (merely
sketched in black pigment). Left Wall. A tombstone rounded at
the top, to which two steps ascend; above are the royal pair;
below, the deceased in prayer. To the right is a scene that is
continued on the Left Half of the Rear Wall, representing men
standing before the temple of the sun, among whom, at the head
of the lowest row, the deceased is seen kneeling and returning
thanks for the king's goodness. On the Right Half of the Rear Wall,
the representations on which are continued by those on the Jjeft
Half of the Right Wall, appear the king and queen, driving from the
palace, with out-runners in advance, to visit the fortifications of the
City of the Sun; below, we see them returning. Right Wall. In
the middle is a door-shaped tombstone. Entrance Waii (right half).
In the lowest row we see Mahu setting out in his chariot, to the
left, and to the right, Mahu bringing prisoners to the vizier, who is
accompanied by a retinue, in the second row from the foot is Mahn
leaning on a staff and listening to a report from his subordinates;
to the right, a chariot and soldiers running. The upper rows are
badly preserved. — The Second Koom has no reliefs or paintings.
Baedekkk'.s Egypt. 7th Edit. ^4
216 Route 15. TELL EL-'AMARNA. From Cairo
In the rear wall is a false door. To the right a winding stuircase of
46 steps leads to a chamber in which opens the mummy-shaft.
Tomb 10, of Epe'i, is unfinished. To tbe left, in the entrance, are the
king and queen offering two pictures to the sun, the king presenting two
princesses who worship the names of the sun, while the queen presents her
own portrait, also adoring the names of the sun; behind them are three
princesses with sistra; the sun darts his rays upon an altar loaded with
food and vessels. — Tomb 11, of Ramose. To the left, in the entrance,
are the royal pair accompanied by a princess, receiving the symbol of
'Life' from the sun's rays, which are shaped like hands. In the niche
are seated {<gnres of the deceased and his wife. — Tombs 12 and 13, though
unfinished, are of interest as illustrating the method in which these rock-
tombs were hollowed out. — Tomb 14 belonged tn Afei, a 'military com-
mander and fan-bearer on the king's right hand', whose name has every-
where been carefully obliterated, while the names of the king and queen
have been left uninjured. The tomb is unfinished. On the right portion
of the entrance-wall are preliminary sketches in black of the quays of the
City of the Sun, with ships, gardens, and the palace in the background. —
Tomb 17, though a fine specimen, has no representations or inscriptions. —
Tomb 19, of Suti, had just l)ecn begun.
Tomb ^3, Itelonging to Ene'i, a royal house-steward and scribe, differs
from the other tombs in its arrangement. A (light of limestone steps as-
cends to the entrance, which is crowned with a concave cornice, and in
front of which a colonnade was intended to be ei-ected. On each side of
the lintel are the king and queen and three princesses praying to the sun ;
on the left side in the entrance is the deceased praying, with the te.\t
of his prayer in front of him, on the right side he appears with a stalf
and nosegay (painted on stucco). The walls of the Main Chamber are
coated with stucco, but with the exception of the concave cornice at the
top are nnpainted. In the Niche is a colossal statue of the deceased. On
the right wall are the deceased and his wife seated before a worshipper ;
on the left wall, the deceased seated at table and receiving flowers from
a priest. These scenes also are painted on stucco but are much faded.
Tomb 25, the farthest to the S. in this group, belonged to Eye
(A'i), the successor of Amenophis IV. (p. cii), and perhaps his father-
in-law. This tomb, like so many of the others, was left unfinished,
because Amenophis died during its construction and the court was
soon afterwards removed back to Thebes, where Eye caused a new
tomb to be made for himself (p. 298). On the Door Posts, to the
right and left, are Eye and his wife Teye, kneeling below inscrip-
tions. In the Entrance, to the left, are the king and queen, followed
by the princesses and the court, praying to the sun, which directs
its arm-shaped rays towards the altar; below are Eye and his wife in
prayer. To the right are Eye, in his official costume, and his wife
praying, their prayers being inscribed beside them. — The Main
Chamber was designed to be supported by 24 papyrus-columns
with bud-capitals, but only 16 have been hewn out, and of these
only 4 are finished. The remainder (to the S.) have just been begun
in the living rock at the top. On three of the columns appear the
deceased and his wife, adoring the names of the sun and of the
king and queen. In the centre of the rear wall and in the N.W.
angle are unfinished doors; in the N.E. angle is a flight of steps
intended to lead to the sarcophagus-chamber, which has not even
been begun. The representation on the left portion of the Entrance
Wall., the only one finished, deserves notice. To the left are the
to Luxor.
TELL EL-'AMAHNA.
75. Roide. 217
king and iiuten at tlic balcony ol' the palace throwing down de-
corations to Eye and his wife (upper parts of their bodies in the
Museum at Cairo). Beside the queen are tlie three youthful princesses,
one of whom strokes her mother's chin; above shines the sun. In the
courtyard of the palace wait the royal retinue (charioteers, scribes,
fan-bearers, and soldiers), raising their hands in respectful homage
to the royal pair. The curious bent attitudes of the courtiers should
be observed. Below are boys frisking for joy. To the right Eye
leaves the palace, receiving the congratulations of his retainers,
who raise their hands in exultation ; servant.s carry the gifts away.
In the top row are the door-keepers sitting and conversing with their
yeomen about the sounds of jubilation that reach their ears.
About 61/2 JI. frniu Toll el-'Aniarna, in a mountain-valley stretching
towards the K. between the N. and S. (iroups of tombs, anii known by
the Arabs n^'Darb el-Hainziiici or Darh el-Melek, are a number of un-
inscrihed rock-tumbs .liid (ini; (No. 26j which, though greatly damaged,
contain'* many interesting ducorations. This is tlie —
Family Tomb of Amenophis IV. (closed; keeper at liagg-Kandil). A
flight ol 'JO >^leps (I'l. a], with a smooth inclined plane in the middle for
the transportation of the sarcophagus, leads tn the Entrance (I'l. 6), whence
a sloping Corridor (\'\. c) leads to a scconil lli'^ht of l(j Steps (V\. d), beyond
which is an Antechamber (PI. e), with a shaft, now filled up, and damaged
mural reliefs. Beyond this lies the Tomb Chamber (PI./), in which the sarco-
phaeus once stood. All the pillars but one have disappeared. The mural
representations were carved in stucco, but all are much damaiied with the
exception of thuse on the left portion of the entrance-wall (king, queen, and
princesses adoring the sun) and the left wall (king, queen, princess, and
professional mourners beside a bier?). In the right wall is a small recess
(PI. (/). — We now retrace our steps towards the entrance. Tu the left of
the steps at d lie three rooms (PI. /i, i, i), embellished with reliefs and in-
scriptions, forming perhaps the Gkave of tue Princ>;ss Meket-Aton. lioth
the main walls of the First Room (PI. A) show almo.st exactly the saiiie
scene : the king and queen, four princesses, and the royal retinue presenting
offerings to the snn, which is seen rising over the mountains behind the
pylon iif the temple (on the left); at the foot of the mountains are various
animals. To the left {i.e. on the left part of the entrance-wall and be-
tween the doors on the rear wall) the king's non-Egyptian subjects, in-
cluding negroes and .Asiatics in their distinctive costnme worship the
218 Route 15. DEIRU'r. From Cairo
suu. In the lower row on the right part of the cntrance-vvull we see the
deceased princess on the bier, beside which stand the king and queen
and professional mourners; in the upper row the royal pair, the nurse
with a little princess, and the mourners loudly lament the deceased. The
Second Room (PI. i) contains no repre.'sentations. On the rear wall of
the Third Room (PI. k) the mummy of the princess is shown (on the left)
standing under a canopy, while in front of it the royal family and court
are mourning. This scene is continued on the right wall. On the left
wall we see the mummy lying below tlie same canopy; in front is the
mourning royal family, while farther to the right is the nurse with a
young princess at her breast. On the entrance-wall are objects with which
the tomb was furnished (much injured). — We return to the steps at d.
Nearer the entrance a Corridor (PI. I) leads to tlie left to a sloping Passage
(PI. to) ending in an unfinished Chamber (PI. n).
In the hills eiiolosing the plain of Tell el-''Amarna are many
quarries of limestone and alabaster. The most important are the Ala-
baster Quarries ofHet-nub^ about IT) M. distant, to which a path run-
ning eastwards to the S. ol' the S. group of tombs "leads. These
quarries are ascertained from inscriptions to have been worked under
the Ancient Empire and at the beginning of the Middle Empire.
Beyond Deir Mawas (p. 211) the train next reaches (1941/2 M.)
Deirtlt (Beirut el-Mahatta), a district-capital with 066') inhab.,
on the Ihrahlrmyeh Canal (p. 231), from which the Bahr Yiisuf
(p. 190) diverges a little farther up. Steamer of the Compaguie
des Bateaux-Omnibus daily to Assiut (p. 232). We notice a large
lock and bridge here. About 2 M. to the N. is tlie considerable
village of Deirdt esh-Sherlf^ with 8649 inhabitants. To the W., on
the edge of the desert, lies the village of BawU, near which once
lay the Coptic monastery of Apa Apollo, of which, howevnr, hardly
any trace is left (remains in the museum at Cairo, see p. 89).
203 M. NazCdi Ganub. Beyond the Ibrahimiyeh Canal lies El-
Kusiyeh (El-Qusia), now an insignificant town with 9678 inhab.,
the ancient Cussae, in which, according to JSlian, Venus Urania
and her cow (i.e. Hathor, the mistress of heaven) were worshipped.
It was the ancient Egyptian Gosu^ the capital of the Lower Sycamore
Nome. — About 6 M. to the W. of Nazali Ganub lies Meir (M'ir), a
thriving village with 6266 inhabitants. About 41/2 M. from the
last-named village is the Necropolis of Gosu, with rock-tombs of
the grandees of that district dating from the Middle Empire. Several
of these contain very fine representations (apply to the keeper).
The interesting contents of several other graves of the same period
are now in the museum at Cairo. Graeco-Roman tombs also were
found here, containing mummies with painted plaster busts, —
Egyptian rock-tombs of the 6th Dyn., with reliefs and inscriptions,
exist in the hills of Koseir el-Amarna, on the E. bank of the Nile,
opposite Nazali Ganub.
2151/2 M. Manf aI6t (Man/a^ou<; p. 231), a district-capital with
14,482 inhab., close to the river, is the seat of a ('optic bishop and
to Luxor. SOHAG. lb. Route. 219
contains several line villas and gardens and a bazaar. Its market is
much frequented on Sat, and it possesses a sugar- factory. Date-
brandy {'araki) is made here, chiefly for local consumption by the
Gopts but partly for export also.
To the >^.W. of Maiitalut lies Beni 'AUi. where in 1708 a collision
took plare between the troops of General Desaix and the Arabs. In the
following year (ieiieral Davout destroyed it. Jlohauimed Ali united his
army here in I82U. The journey to the oasis of Furofra (p. 379) is fre-
quently begun here. The first station to the K.W. is the Coptic convent
of El-Meliarrak (p. ]iv).
At the foot of the hills on the right bank, opposite Manfaliit, lie
the villages of El- Mti'abdeh,' Arab el-'AUyut, and Deir el-Gabrdwi.
The hills to the N.E. of El-Ma'dbcleh contain tombs of the Ancient
Empire. About 3i/'2 M. to the N.E., on the plateau of the Arabian hill.s,
is the so-called Crocodile Grotto, which, however, is hardly worth visiting,
;is practically nothing is to be seen except the charred remains of the.
mummies of crocodiles. — To the S. is the GeOel Kur?ieli, with a quarry
exhausted in the reign of Sethos II. (inscription). — At 'Arab el-'Atit/at,
3 M. to the E. of El-Ma'abdeh, are tombs and quarries. About 2 M.
farther to the E. lies the Coptic village Deir el-6abrdwi, containing a
Greek inscription (discovered by Mr. Harris) in the form of a dedication
of the Lusitanian Cohort, which served under Diocletian and Maximian,
to Zeus, Hercules, and jfike (Victoria). — In the Gebel ilardg . a ridge
about H/j hr. distant, are numerous rock -tombs belonging to princes
and grandees of the nome of the '■Serpent MountairC. These tombs, mostly
dating from the close of the Ancient Empire, are divided into a N.W. and
a S.E. group, the former comprising SO tombs (4 with inscriptions and
representations), the latter about 40 (12 with representations). The most
interesting are two of the S.E. group, situated above the village of Deir
rl-Gabrawi, belonging to Zaw and Ebe (6th Dyn.), 'princes of the nome
of the Serpent Mountain and of the nome of Abydos'. Like the graves of
Henihasan (p. 227), these tombs contain interesting representations of handi-
craftsmen, harvest-scenes, fishing and hunting scenes, etc.
233 M. Assitit or Siut, see p. 232.
241 M. El-Mati'a(Motidd), with 7479 inhabitants.
248 m. Abu Tig or Butlg (p. 285), a district-capital with a school
for cotton-weaving and over 12,000 inhab., lies in the ancient ilyp-
selite nome. The present name is probably derived from the Greek
name of \\~o%rfA-q, i.e. Storehouse. A large weekly market is held
on Saturday. — 254 M. Sedfa (Sidfa; p. 235). — 2591/2 M. Tema
(p. 235), a pretty village in verdant surroundings. The village of
A'orn Eshkdf (Kom hhqau), about 5 M. to the S., is the ancient
Aphroditespolis. — Opposite (W. bank) is the fertile plain of Kdu
(p. 235), the Greek AntaeopoUs. — 263V2 M. MisHa; 270 M.
fahta (p. 236), a district -capital with 18,203 inhab. and a noted
cattle-market. The Arabian hills now approach close to the E.
bank. — 278 M. El-Mardgha (p. 236); 284 M. Shenduwin {Chan-
dan-il; p. 236). A large market is held in the last every Saturday.
290 m. Soh&g or Souhag ( Hotel Abydos, R.only, 8pias., Hot. Klii-
divjai, both nearthe station; Restaurant Oriental ).i-<fi\th 17,514inhab.,
is the remarkably clean capital of the province of Girgeh (575 sq. M. ;
792,971 inhab.). The handsome government-building (muiliriyeh)
stands in a neat square. Close by are the hospital and the Pro-
220 Route li). AKHMIM. From Cairo
testaut church. The Coptic church iu insignificant. The bazaar is
small; Monday is market-day. The post-office is in the pretty
street skirting the river. An excursion to the White Convent (see
below) takes ahout 3 hrs. by carriage (ca. 20 pias., bargain neces-
sary; donkey f) pias. and fee of 3 pias.).
An embanked road leads to the W. from Soliag;, via the village of
Mnzdlwe/i, to (3 M.) the early-Christian settlement of the White Convent,
or Deir el-Abyad, situated on the edge of the Libyan mountains. The
convent, named also Deir Anba ShenUda after its founder, in which men,
women, and children live in families (ca. 220 souls in all), is enclosed
by a lofty wall of white limestone blocks and looks more like a fortress
than a convent. The wall and the entrance-gateway, on the S. side, are
adorned with a concave cornice like an Egyptian temple. The church,
a basilica with nave and aisles, dates at latest from the 5th cent, and has
been recently restored by Herz-Pasha. The chancel ends in three vaulted
apses, architecturally interesting. In the church and iu the court (formerly
the aisles) are some ancient columns, probably taken from the adjacent
ruins of the antique Alripe (Athribis). The ricli treasures of the library
of the convent have been sold to European collectors. — About S'/i M. to
the N.W. (donkey in 1 hr.) is the Red Convent, Deir el-Ahmar, also called
Deir Abu Bshoi. The old church of the convent, a basilica with nave
and aisles, is a very ancient structure of brick (lately restored), with
elaborate capitals and a richly articulated apse.
About 400 yds. below the post-office (see above) a steam-ferry
(1 pias.) crosses the river to the E. bank, and from the landing-
place an omnibus ('/2 pias.) runs in about ly2 l^r, to —
Akhmim, a thriving district-capital \\ ith 23,795 inhab., includ-
ing 6600 Copts. The weekly market on Wed. is much frequented,
and the bazaar is well-stocked. The numerous cotton-mills produce
the cloth for the blue shirts of the fellahin and for the long shdla
(pi. shaldt), or shawls with fringes, which the poorer classes wear
on state occasions and for protection against cold. Akhmim stands
on the site of Chemmis or PanopoUs, which was the capital of a
separate nome. The Egyptians named it Epu and also Khente-Min,
after its god, the ithyphallic Min (p. cli), whence proceed the Coptic
Shmin and the Arabic Akhm'im.
Herodotus (ii. 91) distinguishes the citizens of Chemmis as the only
Egyptians who favoured Greek customs and relates that they erected a
temple to Perseus, worshipped him with Hellenic rites, and held games
in his honour. The citizens claimed Perseus as a native of their tovsm
and told the garrulous Halicarnassian that he had visited Chemmis, when
on his way to Libya in pursuit of the Gorgon's head, and had recognized
them as his kinsmen. A statue of him stood in the temple- From time
to time the hero revisited Chemmis, leaving, as a si^n of his presence,
a sandal, two cubits long; the linding of this was considered a portent of
good fortune. — Strabo mentions the weavers and stone-cutters of Panopoli.«.
— Chemmis still flourished in the Roman period, and its ancient and
famous temple was finally completed in the 12th year of Trajan. After
Christianity established itself here the vicinity of Panopolis became crowded
with convents. Neslori u.s Bishop of Constantinople, who had been banished
to the oasis of Khari;eh (p. 379) on account of his disbelief in the divine
noiotherhood of the Virgin Mary, was attacked there by the plundering
Blemmyes and carried captive into the Thebaid, where he surrendered
himself to the prefect of Panopolis, to avoid a charge of wilful flight. He
died in Panopolis-Akhmim (.ca. 440). Even after the conquest of Egypt
lo Luxor. GIRGEH. li>. Route. 221
by the Moliaminedans ihe temples of the 'great town" of Akhmim were,
as Abulfida (1273-1331) and other Arabs relate, among the most important
remains of the days of the Pharaohs. But the ruins of these temples are
now very scanty.
In 18S4 an extensive Necropolis was discovered among the low hills
about 3M. to the K.E. of Akhmim. The route thither leads via (21/4 M.)
El-Hatedwish, in a hill beyond which are numerous tombs of the Kew Empire
mingled with some of the Ancient Empire. To the N. and W. is a Christian
cemetery, of the 5-l5th cent., and in the vicinity is a Coptic convent. The
tombs to the N., which are the oldest, date from the Roman, Ptolemaic, and
Egyptian periods. Farther up the mountain are tombs of the 6th Dynasty.
— To the S. of Akhmim is a rock-chapel constructed under King Eve
(18th Dyii.).
The railway crosses the Sohagtyeh Canal, which joins tlie Ibra-
liiraiyeh Canal at Assiut and is intended to convey the watiT of
the rising Nile as far as possible towards the Libyan Desert. —
294 M. Bala.%fura, a village with 5045 inhabitants.
299 M. El-Menshiyeh or El-Minsha (El-Menchkh, Menchah) is
merely a peasants' town, with 10,810 inhab. and very few houses
of a better class. It occupies the site of Ptolema'is Hermiou, a
town founded by Ptolemy Soter I. and described by Strabo as 'the
largest town in the Thebaid and not inferior in size to Memphis,
with a constitution drawn up in the Hellenic manner'. Its Egyp-
tian name was Pso'L
About 71/2 M, to the W. of El-Menshiyeh, near the village of Kawdmil,
are large cemeteries of the earliest period.
305V2 M. El-A.mrat.
312 m. Girgeh (Girga, Guerga) is a district-capital with 19,893
iiihab., of whom 5443 are Copts. A large weekly market is held on
Tuesday. Many of the houses are built of burnt brick and decorated
with glazed tiles. Outside the town lies a convent of the United
Copts, which is probably the oldest but one in Egypt.
About 31/j M. to the W. of Girgeh , near Beit K/ialldf, is a large
brick mastaba of the time of King Zoser (3r(l Dyn.l, excavated by Prof.
Garstang.'— The village of El-Birba, 31/2 M. to the N. of Girgeh, per-
haps occupies the site of T/iis (Egypt. Tine), the capital of the first two
dynasties (p. xcix) and uf a nome of the same name.
Upon the E. bank opposite Girgeh, near Nag'ed-Deir, lie several cem-
eteries, some of them of the prehistoric period, which have been excavated
by Dr. Reisner at the cost of the University of California (comp. p. 98). —
Farther to the S. is the old Coptic convent of Deir el-Mel&k, the large ceme-
tery of which is still used by the Christian inhabitants of Girgeh. The
Arabian mountains, which approach close to the river beyond the village,
contain numerous tombs, four of which, at a considerable elevation, belonged
to srandees of the ancient This (see above). Their inscriptions and repre-
sentations are now scarcely visible. — At Mtiheikh, about 3 M. farther to
the S.. are remains of a temple built by Ramses II. and restored by Ame-
nephthes. Hesheikh is a village of the Aulad Yehya, on the site of the
ancient Lepidolonpolis. Above the village are some ancient rock-tombs,
the chief of which belonged to Knher-mose, a high-priest of This in the
reign of Amenephthes flOth Dyn.).
317V-2 M. liardts, a village with 8872 inhabitants.
321 V2 ^i- Baliana (Hotel <$- Bar Abydos, on the river V2 M,
from the railway station, R. 8 pias., unpretending), a district-
222 Route Lb. NAG' HAMADl. From Cairo
capital of 7875 inhab., is a steamboat station (p. 236) and the
starting-point for the highly interesting excursion to Abydos (p. 237 J,
326V2 ^I- -^^^ Shilsheh (Abou Choucha), the ancient Egyptian
Pe(r)-zdz. About 3 M. to the S. lies SamhM, on amdent rubbish-
mounds. — 332 M. Abu Tisht. — 3341/2 M. Khargeh or Oasis Junc-
tion (Muaslet tl- Khargeh), for the oasis railway to El- Khargeh
(p. 380). Beyond (3381/2 M.) Farshut the railway approaches
the Nile.
3431/2 M. Nag' Ham&di is a district-capital with 3867 inhab.
and a large sugar-factory. The railway crosses the Nile here by a
large iron bridge and remains on the E. banlc as far as Assuan.
3471/2 M- Ed-Dabeh (Dahheh}.
A little to the N. of the railway .station, near some larjjc quarrie.<i
among the Arabian hills, are the tombs of Ka^r cx-Saiydd, belonging to
jirinr.es of the seventh nome of ll])per Egypti under the 6th Dynasty.
The large tomb situated farthest to the left is that of the nomarch
Zauti. It consisted of two chambers, the partition-wall between which
has almost wholly disappeared. Its vaulted ceiling was hewn out of the
living rock. The representations in the interior have been largely destroyed.
In the first (S.) chamber, to the right of the entrance, ships. In the rear
wall is a niche, whence a mummy-shaft descends obliquely. Farther to
the left, in the S.W. corner, is a room with four niches, probably intended
for the coffins. In front of them is a bench. On the N. wall of the
second (N.) charmber are figures bearing funeral gifts and a large sacri-
ficial table, with a list of the gifts. On the W. wall is a niche with a
figure of the deceased. This tomb contains also inscriptions of the Middle
Empire, recording its restoration by a descendant of Zauti.
The next tomb, farther to the right, is that of a prince named Etu.
The interior is in the form of a rectangle, with the mummy-shaft opening
in the back-wall. The representation of Etu, to the left of the entrance,
is very lifelike and derives peculiar interest from the fact that the grandees
of the early period are seldom represented, as here, in full military
activity. Our hero lifts his arm vigorously to strike his I'oe. The mode
of wearing the hair and headdress, seen both in this figure and that of
bHu's wife, is unusual. Etu was a rich man, possessing, according to the
inscriptions, 2350 oxen. On the left side of the rear wall are several
scenes from the private life of the deceased. Cattle are being slaugh-
tered, cooks are busy at their work, etc. Above the door leading to the
mummy-shaft we see an unusually large table, adjoining which is along
but much damaged inscription.
The smaller tombs in the vicinity are less interesting. Several Coptic
inscriptions testify that anchorites found retreats in these tombs during
the Christian period.
355 M. F&u (Faou), with 15,448 inhab., is the Coptic Phbow,
where, at a large convent founded by Pachomius, the monks of all
the convents in Egypt used to assemble twice a year. A little farther
to the S., on the E. bank, lay Tabennese, where Pachomius founded
the first convent about 320 A.D.
359 M. Beshna (Dechna^ Dishna), a district-capital with 10,886
inhab., is situated on the ruins of an ancient town. — 363 M.
Samata. — SBTl/o M. Aulad 'Ainr. To the right, on the left bank,
is seen the ruined temple of Dendera ( p. 244).
3771/2 M. Keneh, Kena, or Qena (Hotel, Denderah, R. only), the
ancient Kaincpolis, with 20,069 inhab., lies on the E. bank of a
Lo Luxor. KUFT. 16. Route. 223
canal, about 1 M. from the E. bank of the Nile. It is the capital of
the province of Keneh, which has an area of about 650 sq. M. and a
population of 772,492. The railway station is to the E. of the town,
the mudiriyeh in a neat square to the S.W. Keneh has a special
reputation for its Kulal (pi. of Kulla; comp. p. 110), or cool porous
water-bottles, and for other clay vessels. Hundreds of thousands
of these vessels are annually exported to Cairo and Alexandria,
chiefly by water. Keneh is at the starting-point of the routes through
the Eastern Desert (R. 25), and at the time of the pilgrimage to
Mecca is thronged with pilgrims.
Railway travellers make the excursion to Dendera (p. 244) from
the station of Keneh in ca. 4-5 hrs. (donkey, incl. ferry across the
river, 10 pias. and fee of ■') pias. ; carr. not recommended). We
cross the canal near the mudiriyeh (see above) and follow an avenue
of lebbakh-trees, passing the pri.son and the office of the irrigation
department on the right, to the Nile. The ferry is •/.2 hr. down-
stream, beyond the hamlet of El-Hamidat. On the Sv. bank the
route skirts the river to the landing-place of Cook's steamers, then
strikes off to the hamlet oi Kafr el-Kahragelleh and the (8/4 hr.)
Temple of Dendera (p. 245).
390 M. 'K.MiKQift, Kaft). the ancient Kcptos (Egypt. Kebtoyew),
situated beyond the Shanhuriyeh Canal. Though now of no import-
ance (pop. 8934), this place was in remote antiquity a flourishing
commercial town, and down to the Graeco-Roman period was one
of the chief emporia for the wares of Arabia and India. It stood
under the protection of the ithyphallic harvest-god Min (Pan |, who
was also the patron of travellers in the desert. During tlie great
rebellion in Upper Egypt under Diocletian (292 A. D.) Koptos was
besieged and destroyed, but it quickly recovered from the blow.
Down to the time of the Caliphs it remained a populous trading-
town. The extant ruins are of no great interest.
At Koptos the tireat caravan-routes through the .\rabian Desert to
the seaports on the Red Sea quitted the. >.'ile valley. The chief goals of
the caravans were the Sinaitic peninsula and the land of Punt (Fwenet),
situated about the modern Somali Ojast, which yielded incense, ivory,
ebony, pauther-skins, etc., and was regarded by the E§:yptiaus as a land
of fabulous wonders, like India. Other caravans made for the iVddi JJa7H-
indmAt in the desert, which produced a hard stone much prized by the
Ei;yptian sculptors (comp. p. 374). At a later period the caravan-trade
was diverted to the routes via Kiis and finally to those via Keneh.
397 iAl. Kiis (Qus. Kous), a district-capital with 14,355 inhab.,
occupies the site of the ancient ApoUonopolis l\iri}(i, where the goil
Haroeris (a form of Horus) was worshipped. According to AbuKida
(d. 1331) this town, of which now heaps of ruins alone remain,
was second in si/e only to Fustat (Cairo) and was the chief centre
of the Arabian trade. A few stones with fragmentary inscriptions
have been built into the houses of the town ; and the mosque contains
a basin formed of a single stone, with the name of Ptolemy Phila-
delphus upon it.
224 RouU 15. TUKH.
On the W. bank, opposite Kus, lies TAkh (Toukh)^ to the N.W. of
which, on the edge of the desert, are the ruins of Ombos (excavated
by Flinders Petrie in 1895), not to be confounded with the town of
that name to the S. of Gebel Silsileh (p. 349). Seth was the guardian
deity of this town. In the neighbourhood are extensive cemeteries
dating from the prehistoric period and that of the first Egyptian
dynasties.
Also on the W. bank, to the S. of Tukh, whence it may be
reached, is Nakddeh (Naqada), a town of 8112iiihab. (5336 Gopts),
picturesquely situated on the river, with post and telegraph offices,
a Coptic and a Koman Catholic church.
To the N. of Nakadeb a large and mucli damaged mastaba of brick
was discovered by De Morgan in 1897. By many this is supposed to be
Iho Tomb of Menes, the first historical Egyptian king (pp. xcix, 01).
On the edge of the desert, between Nakadeh and Kamula (p. 250),
lie four ancient Coptic Convents, said to date from the time of the Em-
press Helena. Deir el-Meldk, the largest, is built of crude bricks and con-
tains four connected chiirrhes, of which the largest is dedicated to St.
Michael. The convent, which has 18 domes, is now unoccupied, and is
used for divine service only on certain festivals by the clergy of Nakadeh. —
The other convents ai-e those of Es-8aHb (near Ed-Denfik), Mclri Oirgit
and Mdri Boktcr (St. Victor), which last is the oldest.
40772 M. Khizdm has a necropolis of the 11th Dynasty. To the
right, on the opposite bank, appear the ruins of W. Thebes, while
near the railway are the imposing ruins of Karnak.
416'/2M. Luxor (p. 251); the station is to the S.K. of the village.
Travellers to Assuan change carriages and proceed by the narrow-
gauge line (p. 332).
16. From Cairo to Assiutby the Nile.
Comp. Map, p. 206.
247 M. TocKiST Stkamboat in 4 days (comp. p. 203).
The starting-place of the steamers is below the Kair en-NU
Bridge. To the left (E. bank) lie the quarter of Kasr ed-Dubara,
the British A.gency, the island of Uoda, and Old Cairo (p. 106),
beyond which rise the Mokattam Mts., with the citadel; on the W.
bank are the town of Gizeh and the Great Pyramids. — To the left
( E. bank), farther on, are El-Ma'ddi, Tura, and Ma'sara (p. 167).
Among the hills are the large quarries mentioned at p. 170. Oppo-
site, on the W. bank, rise the pyramids of Abusir, Sakkara, and
Dahshur. Farther up, to the left, amidst a fine grove of palms, is
a Coptic convent.
The steamer remains for some hours at (14 M.) Bedrashein (rail,
station), where asses are kept ready for a visit to Sakkara (see
p. 142). Opposite, on the right river-bank, lies the village of Hel-
u^dn and a little inland is the watering-place of that name (p. 167).
On the W. bank, at (31 M.) El-'Aydt (rail, station, p. 205), a
district- capital (2428 iniiab.), where the tourist - steamers lay to
EL-WASTA. 10. Route. 225
for the night, are some ancient (-onstructions. To the left, on the
E. bank, lies Es-Sa/f, a district-capital with 2844 inhabitants. Op-
posite, at EL-Matanyeh (p. 205), lie the pyramids of Lisht (p. 205J.
Rikka (rail, s-tation), on the W, bank, is a starting-point for the
excursion to the Pyramid of Meidum (p. 205).
Passing a few islands we reach (\V. Lank) El-Wasta (rail,
station, see p. 206; branch-line to the Faiyum, p. 191 ; post-office
and Arab telegraph at the rail, station, l 4 M. from the Nile).
On the W. bank the mountains recede a little, but on the E. bank
their steep and lofty spurs frequently extend down to the river in
rising picturesque forms. None of the Nile-villages before Benisueif
need be mentioned. On the E. bank stands the Coptic convent of
Deir Mar Antonios, from which a caravan-route leads to tlie Ked Sea.
— On the W. bank lies Ashment (p. 200), and about 2M. inland is
the village of Bush (Bouche; rail, station, p. 20G).
711/2 M. (W. bank) Benisueif (rail, station, see p. 206).
The next villages are Tezment and El-Halabhjeh, picturesquely
situated among palms on the W. bank, and Beni Solimdn, on the E.
bank. As far as Minyeh (p. 208) the space between the E. bank and
the hills remains narrow, the limestone rocks frequently abutting on
the river in unbroken walls or rounded bluffs. Few villages are
seen on this bank, but the fertile alluvial tract on the W. side,
10-12 M. in width, is thickly populated and carefully cultivated,
exhibiting in profusion all the cereals that grow on the Nile, date
palms, cotton, and sugar-cane. The sugar- factories, most of which
have European nianasxers, follow each other in rapid succession. They
are connected by the railway, aud short branch-lines, used in har-
vest-time only, run from them to the plantations lying farther to
the W. Their lofty brick and iron chimneys impart a very modern
industrial air to the ancient land of the Pharaohs. Large barges
with sugar-canes or with fellahin 'factory-hands' are met on the
river. The juice is expressed from the caue and then refined by
being boiled twice in closed vessels.
The boat passes several large islands. On the W. bank lie Ba-
ranka and Blbeh, the latter a railway station (p. 206). The bell-
tower of the Coptic convent, surmounted by a cross, is visible from
afar. On a promontory of the E. bank, opposite Bibeh, is the tomb
of a sheikh; in the river lies the Gezlrtt el-Blbeh, an island of some
size. The channel now contracts and the picturesqne hills on the
E. approach the river. Nnmerous islets. 05 M. Fcshn (^rail. station,
p. 207), on the W. bank, is 11 '.7 ^I- from the liver. Above Feshn are
the island and village (E. bank) of Et-Hlbeh (p. 207).
On the W. bank lies Fant (rail, station, p. 207), and on the E.
bank are several palm-shaded villages. The Gebel Sheikh Etnbdrak
(Gebel eah-Sheikh) and the Gebel Kardra approach the E. bank.
IO8V2 M. (W. bank) MagMgha (rail, station, p. 207).
The Nile channel is very wide here {Gezirei Sharuna and other
226 liouU 16. GEBEL ET-TEIR. I<roin Cairo
islands); farther on both banks are flat. — 113 M. (E. bank) Sharuna
(p. 207).
118 M. Bent Mazar (W. bank) is a railway station (p. 207). —
About 2 M. farther up, close to the E. bank, is the village of Esh-
Sheikh Fadl (steamboat station), with 3616 inhab. and a large
sugar-factory.
Farther on, on the W. bank, 1^/4 M. from the river, is Matdi
(rail, station, p. 207). — Near (1331/2 M. ; W. bank) KoLosna (rail,
station, p. 207) the Nile forms the large island of Es-Sariuyeh.
Opposite (E. bank) lies the vUlage of Es-Sarirlyeh (El-Seririelt).
To the N. and S. are ancient limestone quarries, now disused.
Among the S. quarries is a small Rock Chapel, built under Ame-
nephthi's and dcdirated to Hathor. On one of the rocks is a represent-
ation of Itainses III. between Hathor and another deity.
On the W. bank lies the railway station of Samdiut (p. 208). A
little farther to the S., at the mouth of a side-valley on the E.
bank, rise the steep rocky sides of the Gebel et-Teir ('bird-moun-
tain'), with an extensive flat top bearing the Coptic convent Deir
Gebel, et-Teir, known also as Deir el-Bakara or Deir el-Aclra ('con-
vent of the Virgin'). Visitors are drawn up a vertical cleft in
the rock by means of a windlass. The convent, which consists of
a group of miserable huts, occupied not only by monks but also
by laymen with their wives and children (510 souls in all), is sur-
rounded by a wall of hewn stone, erected in the Roman period. The
foundation of the church is ascribed to the Empress Helena; the
sanctuary is hewn in the solid rock and possesses a gate, now half-
buried, adorned with Byzantine ornamentation.
A legend, recorded by Makrizi, relates that on tlic saints day of the
convout all the bukir birds assembled here and thrust their liills, one after
the other, into a cleft of the rock until one died. These birds are described
as being black and white, with a black neck ringed near the head. The
convent is named also Deir el-Bukir after them.
On the E. bank, about 1/0 hr. farther on, is the village of Tehna
(p. 208). — 142 M. (W. bank) Minyeh (p. 208).
167 M. Benihasan, on the E. bank.
Benihasan.
Donkeys (with good saddles) are in waiting at the landing-place of
the steamers, for the excursion to the Speos Ariemidos .ind the Rock Tomtig
(there and back 3-4 hrs.; 5-8 pias.). — For travellers by railway the most
convenient station is Minyeh (comp. p. 209).
The present village of Benikasan (Bent Hxisein Slterfik) was
founded towards the end of the 18th cent, by the inhabitants of an
older village (see p. 227), now lying deserted to the N., who wished
a wider space for cultivation near their abode. — The route from
the landing-place to the Speos Artemidos ('/.) hr.'s ride) descends
the river at first, then strikes off to the right towards the desert
to Axmit. BENIHASAN. 16. Route. 227
along an fnibaiiknjcnt leading thronn;li lields. In the vicinity is the
lats' graveyard, in which the cats sacred to Pckhet, patron-goddess
of this region, were interred. Farther to the S.E. we reach a wadi
or ravine, from the mouth of which an old cemetery of the 22nd-
25th Dyn. stretches toward the plain. In the valley are several
quarries of ancient date, and on the right (S.) side of the ravine,
about 000 paces from its mouth, lies the temple.
The rock-templ(^ of the goddess Pekhct, called Specs Artemidos
('Grotto of Artemis') by the Greeks, is known to tlie Arabs as Jstnbl
y4ntar('Antar"s stable'), after an ancient hero. It consists of a vesti-
bule and of an inner chamber connected with the vestibule by a
short corridor. It was built in the joint reign of Queen Hatshepsut
and King Thntmosis III,; the latter afterwards erased the names
and representatioTis of iiis sister (comp. p. 299), and Sethos I.
(19th Dyn.) inserted his own names in tlie blanks.
Over the Kntrance to the temple is a lonj; inscription in pr.iise of the
rei'in 111' Hatsliepsiit. Of the eii^ht pillars which supporteii the Vestibdlk
only three now remain -, these bear on their sides the names of Tlmtmosis 111.
and .Sethos I. (oriu-inally Hatshepsut). The front? .seem to have been adorned
with .sistra (unfinished), r^ear Wall. To the left of the door. Sethcs I. be-
tween Amon-Ke (enthroned) and the lion-headed Pekhet: Thout deliver-
ing a speech to the nine great gods of Karnak and to the gods of Upper
and Lower Keypt. To the right of the door are three reliefs: Sethos
sacrificing to Pekhet; Sethos receiving from Pekhet the hieroglyphics of
the word 'life', hanging from two sceptres ; Sethos blessed by Thout. To
the left in the Corridor is a long inscription of Sethos I. and a represent-
ation of the king otl'ering wine to Pekhet; to the right, he oilers her s>.
cynocephalns. In the rear wall of the Ikner Chamber is a niche intended
for a statue of the goddess.
To the W. (right) is a second grotto, on the outside of which, at
the entrance, are the cartouches of v4iea;onder //., son of Roxana,
and six small scenes representing the king in the company of the
gods. The interior, which was supported by pillars, is now in ruins;
perhaps it was never completed. In the vicinity are several rock-
tombs of the New Empire, in the form of rectangular chambers,
with deep shafts.
We now return to the mouth of the desert-ravine and proceed
thence to the N.. passing the ruins of Benihasan el-Kadlm ('Old
Benihasan'; see p. 226). In '/o hr. we reach a ruined tower, whence
the path ascends the hill-slope to the —
*Rock Tombs of Benihasan (^/4 hr.'s ride direct from the land-
ing-place). These were constructed during the Middle Empire by
the princes and grandees of the town of Monet-Khufu ('Nurse of
Khufu'), and rank among the most interesting monuments in all
Egypt, not only on account of their remarkable architectural fea-
tures, but also lor their important inscriptions and representations
of scenes from the domestic life of the early Egyptians. The latter
are painted in bright colours upon stucco, but many of them are
faded and injured.
The tombs, 39 in all, are arranged in a row in the rocks and are
now distinguished by red numbers. The be.st examples are protected by
228 Route 16. RENIHASAN. From Cairo
iron doors. Travellers whose time is limited may content themselves
with a visit to the four chief tombs (Nos. 17, 15, 3, 2). For remarks on
the construction of the tombs, see p. clxx.
The path tliat ascends to the tombs brings us first to No. 32.
Here we turn to the N. (left) and proceed to —
*ToMB 17, which belonged to Kheti, son of Beket and nomarch
of the gazelle-nome (11th Dyn.). The i"a(;ade is simple. We enter
the Rock Chamber, the roof of whicli was originally borne by six
lotus-columns with bud- capitals, though only two, with well-
preserved colouring, are now standing. The wall-paintings are in
good condition. Left Wall (N.). In the top rows is a hunt in the
desert, in the lower rows, male and female dancers, the statue of
the deceased being borne to its place, carpenters, etc. Rear Wall
(E.). Above are wrestlers in various attitudes; below, military
scenes, attack on a fortress. Riuht Wall (8.). From left to riglit :
the deceased and his wife; the deceased accompanied by his fan-
bearer, sandal-bearer, two dwarl's, etc.; the <lereased receiving offer-
ings (notice the barn on the right ). — Farther to the N., at the end
of an ancient path ascending from the plain, is —
*ToMB 15, belonging to Beket (or Baket), noraarcli of the gazelle-
nome (11th Dyn.). The two columns which supported the roof of the
rectangular chamber have been destroyed. In the S.E. angle is a
small niche (serdab; p. clxviil). Left Wall (N.). Above, hunting in
the desert; barber, washermen, painters, etc. Below, the deceased
and his wife, with four rows of women spinning and weaving, female
dancers, girls playing at ball; herdsmen bringing animals for sacri-
fice to the dead ; goldsmiths ; fishing ; various birds , with their
names inscribed beside them.' Rear Wall (E.). Above, wrestlers;
below, military scenes (resembling those in Tomb 17). Right Wall
(S.). The deceased, in front of whom, in several rows, are men
drawing a shrine containing a statue of the dead; in front are fe-
male dancers and attendants bearing ornaments, etc., for the statue;
peasants bringing their flocks and herds ; peasants forcibly brought
to testify as to taxes, while scribes note down the amounts ; potters
with wheels; men carrying slaughtered birds ; men gambling.
Tomb 3 is that of Khnemhotep, the son of Neheri, a scion of a
princely family with hereditary jurisdiction over the gazelle-nome
and over the E. districts, the capital of which was Monet-Khufu.
Khnemhotep was invested by King Amenemhet II. with the latter
districts and married a daughter of the governor of the dog-nome
(Cynopolis, p. 207), which was inherited by a son of this marriage.
The Vestibule, which formerly stood behind an open court, is
borne by two sixteen-sided columns tapering towards the top. The
cornice projects considerably above the architrave and is ostensibly
supported by fine laths, hewn, like all the rest of the structure, out
of the living rock. The resemblance of these laths to the mutules
of the Doric order is worthy of mention.
to Assiitt. RENIHASAN. W. Route. 229
The Main Chamher was divided by two pairs of columns into
three sliglitly vaulted sections. The scenes and inscriptions here
are mucli fadeil and therefore difficult to distingnish. At the foot
of the wall is a long inscription cut in the rock, in vertical lines of a
greenish colour, 2'/2 ft. high, containing the foregoing interesting
excerpt from Egyptian provincial history. In 1890 the royal names
were cut out of the rock by some vandal hand.
Entrance Wall (W.). Over the door we see the statue of the
deceased being transported to the temple, preceded by female
dancers in curious attitudes ; below is the deceased, watching car-
penters at work. To the Left (N.) of the door is the estate-office of
the deceased, with servants weighing silver, measuring grain, and
bringing corn into the barns, while scribes seated in a colonnaded
hall register the amounts. The next two rows phow the operations
of breaking up the ground, ploughing, harvesting, and threshing
with cattle. In the fourth row is a Nile-boat, bearing the mummy
of the deceased to Abydos (the grave of Osiris; conip. p. 237). In
the fifth row is a representation of the vintage and of the gathering
of figs and growing of vegetables. The cattle in the water and the
fishing scene (at the foot) depict life by the river. — N. Wall (to
the left on entering). At the top is the deceased hunting in the
desert. Below, to the right, he is represented on a large scale in-
specting various proceedings in his province. In the third row from
the top two of his officials introduce to him a Caravan of Asiatics^
including men, women, and children, clad in gaily-coloured foreign
garments and accompanied by their goats and asses. The sharply
cut features, hooked noses, and pointed beards of these strangers
unmistakably proclaim their Semitic nationality. The inscription
describes them as 37 Amus (f.c. Semitic Beduins) bringing eye-
paint to the governor of the province. Khnenihoteps secretary hands
him a list of the visitors. The lowest rows ilepict the cattle and
poultry of the deceased. — Hear Wall (E.J. To the left the deceased
appears with his wife in a papyrus-boat, hunting water-fowl with
a throw-stick. All manner of birds fly about and nest in the thicket
of reeds; in the water are fish, a crocodile, and a hippopotamus;
below is a fishing scene. To the right is a companion picture, show-
ing the deceaseil in a canoe transfixing two fish with a double-
pronged spear. In the centre of the v all is the door of a recess,
once containing a seated figure of the deceased. Above this door is
the deceased, catching birds with a net. — S. Wall (to the right). To
the left the deceased is seated at table, with all kinds of sacrificial
gifts heaped before him. To the right are processions of servants
and priests bringing gifts for the dead. In the lowest rows are cattle,
gazelles, antelopes, and poultry, brought to be sacrificed, and the
slaughtering and cutting up of the sacrificial animals. — Entrance
Wall (to the right, i.e. S. of the door). In the top row are men wash-
ing; below, potters, men felling a palm, the deceased in a litter in-
280 Route If!. RENIHASAN. From Cairo
spfif'tiiig liis sliip-carpenters. In the third row arc two ships carrying
the children, harem, and dependents of the deceased to the funeral
festival at Abydos. In the fourth row are women engaged in spinning
and weaving, and bakers. The lowest row contains men constructing
a shrine, a sculptor polishing a statue, etc.
In front of Tomb 3 is an ancient path descending to tlie plain,
and another begins opposite the adjacent —
*ToMB 2, which belonged to Ameni-em-het, or Ameni, also a
nomarch of the gazelle-nome in the reign of Sesostris I. In the
Vestibule are two octagonal columns, bearing a flat vault hewn
out of the rock. On the door-posts and lintel are prayers for the
dead and the titles of Ameni. Inside the door, to the right and
left, is a long inscription (JateA in the -iBrd year of Sesostris I.,
extolling the deeds of Ameni in several military campaigns and the
benefits conferred by him tipon his provinco. — Four sixteen-sided
columns, with shallow fluting (so-called Proto-Doric columns,
p. clvii), support the roof of the Main Chambee, which has three
sections. The wall-paintings closely resemble those in the tomb
of Khnemhotep. On the Entrance Wall, to the left (N.), are shoe-
makers, carpenters, goldsmiths, potters, and other handicraftsmen,
and agricultural scenes. Left Wall(N.). At the top, hunting in the
desert; in the second row, transporting the statue and ceremonial
dances; below, to the right, the deceased receiving tribute from his
estates; in the two lowest rows, Ameni's estate-office. Rear Wall.
Wrestlers and military scenes; in the lower row, the mummy being
conveyed to the sacred tomb at Abydos (comp. p. 237). In the rear
wall opens a recess containing the statues (much dilapidated) of
the deceased, his wife Hetpet, and his mother. Right Wall(S.). To
the left the deceased is seated at table with sacrificial gifts heaped
before him ; priests and servants bring food and other offerings for the
dead; below, the slaughtering and cutting up of sacrificial animals.
To the right is Hetpet, wife of Ameni, likewise seated at table and
receiving sacrificial gifts.
If time permit, the fonowing tombs also should be visited : Tomb 4,
that of Khnemhotep, son of the Khnemhotep buried in Tomb 3. In the
vestibule stands a Proto-Doric column (p. clvii); the tomb -chamber was
unfinished. — Tomb 5, with two pillars, unfinished. — Tomb 14, (4 Khnem-
hotep, a nomarch under Amenerabet I. In the tomb-cliamber were two
plant-columns (unfortunately broken); the wall-paintings are interesting
but sadly faded. On the rear wall appear soldiers and a caravan of
I-iibyans, with their wives and childrea and herds, who visited the pro-
vince of the deceased ; the men are distinguished by the ostrich-feathers
in their hair, the women carry their children in baskets on their backs.
— Tomb lb, though unfinished, is interesting, as the process of hollowing
out the tomb-chamber may be traced. The pavement in the front of the
chamber is not fully excavated; and at the back are ten clustered columns
with bud-capitals, of which five (still unlinishedj remain. — Tomb 21,
of Jffakht, nomarch of the gazelle-nome under the 12th Dyn., resembles
No. 15 (p. 228) in its arrangement. — Tomb 23, of Neternakht, nomarch of
the K. districts, with uninteresting wall-paintings; on the E. wall is a
Coptic inscription. — Tomb 27, of Jiemiishenti, nomarch of the gazelle-
^^®
.*>,//>
•r .V '
to Asmit. EL-HAWATA. Ifi. Route. 231
nome. — Tomb 28, with two lotus-columns, was converted into a church
in the Christian period. — Tomb 29, of Beket, noniareh of the gazelle-
iiome. The doors opening into the adjoining Tombs 'c8 and 30 were made
hy the Copts. The wall-paintings are in comparatively good preservation,
but oOer no novel point of interest; the dwarfs following the deceased,
on the W. half of the S. wall, and the wrestling-scenes, on the N. wall,
may perhaps be mentioned. — Tomb 33, of Beket, prince of the gazelle-
noine, son of the Beket interred in No. 2!3 ; several wall-paintiugs. —
Tombs 34-39 were left »in(inishod.
On the slope below the tombs of the grandees are numerous smaller
tombs of the Middle Empire in which officials and persons of lower rank
v\ere interred.
We descend the path from Toml) 2, and a ride of 8/4 hr., up-
stream, by the edge of the cultivated ground, brings us to the
landing-place.
To the S. of Benihasan, oti the E. bank, are some rock -tombs
dating from tlie end of the Ancient Empire. On the E. bank the
desert extends down to tlie river; on the W. bank is the pictur-
esque village of Kalandid.
177 M. (W. bank ) Roda (rail, station, see p. 209 ).
On the E. bank, opposite iioda, are the village ot Sheikh 'AhCuleh
and the ruins of Antlnoupolh (p. 209).
On the W. bank, 1 M. from the Nile, is the town of Mellawi
(rail, station, p. 210).
Farther on, on the E. hank, at the foot of the hill of the same
name, lies Sheikh Sti'7d, among palms, with tombs of the Ancient
Empire, beloiiging to princes and hifjh officials of the hare-nome
(p. 209). The tombs are clearly seen from the river.
We next pass the ruins of Tell el-'Amama, on the E. bank
(p. 211). — Farther on, on the same bank, is ( 193 M.) Kl-IIdioata,
with an ejitirely destroyed palace of Amenophis IV. In the neigh-
bourhood are several rock-inscriptions, defining the boundaries of
his holy district (comp. p. 211).
On the W. bank lies Dcirut (rail, station, p. 218). The boat
passes between the islands of (j'eziret el-Hdioutn, on the E., and
Ueziret el-Manddra, on the W. The arm of tlie Nile known as the Bahr
ywsu/" (Joseph's Canal; p. 190) here diverges from the Ibrahimiyeh
Canal (p. 232) on the W. bank.
The Arabian Mts., rising in precipitous rocky walls, approach
the river. Swallows, ducks, and other birds inhabit the oaves in
the porous rock on the banks and fly in and out in screaming
crowds. The clifl's on the right bank of this part of the Nile are
known as Gebel Abu Fdda. Violent winds and numerous sand-
banks frequently render the navigation of this part of the Nile
difficult and dangerous. On the E. bank is the Coptic convent of
J)eir el-Koseir., near which are some ancient rock-tombs I p. 218).
On the W. bank, 3 M. from the river, lies El-Ku.fiyeh (p. 218).
— 220 M. Manfaltlt (rail, station, p. 21S) lies on tiie'w. bank close
r.AKDKKKR's I'lgyjlt. "til lOdit J5
232 Route 16. ASSIUT,
to the river, which must have made great encroachments here since
the end of the 18th century. Between Manfalut and Assist (27 M.
by river, only 17 M. hy land) the Nile makes many curves.
We next observe ShikelkU, on the E. bank, II/4 M. to the S. of
El-Ma'abdeh (p. 219), El-Hawatkeh, a pretty village among palms,
on the W. bank, and Beni Moharruned, on the E. bank. The
mountains to the N. (E. bank) recede farther and fartlier from the
river, leaving a broad strip of fertile land at their feet. Close to the
mountains lie 'Arab el-'Atiycit and Deir el-Guhrdwi (p. 219).
Above Jieiii Mohammed the Nile makes several great bends and
is divided into tvfo arms by the large island Qeztret Being. On the
E. arm lies ( 233 M.) Ebniib (Abnub), a district-capital, with 6878 in-
hab. (4291 Copts) and fine palm-groves.
The foot-hills of the Libyan chain on the W. bank approach the
river, which is here, near the village oi El-Waladiyeh[WaUdia; W.
bank), bridled by the Assiut Barrage, an imposing work intended
to regulate the amount of water in the Ibrahimiyeh Canal which
irrigates the provinces of Assiut, Minyeh, Benisneif, and Gizeh,
and (through the Babr Yusuf, see p. 231) the Faiyum. The bar-
rage, which is 910 yds. long and 41 ft. high, was constructed in
1898-1902 by Aird & Co. (p. 372) from the original design of Sir
W. Willcocks and plans by Sir Benjamin Baker (d. 1907) and Sir
W. Garstin. It consists of thirteen sections, the first of which (W.)
has three arches and a lock, while the others have nine arches
each. Each opening (111 in all) can be shut by an iron door. The
barrage Is crossed by a carriage-road. — Immediately above the
barrage, on the W. bank, are the regulation-works (a bridge with
nine arches and a lock) at the mouth of the Ihrdhhnlyeh Canal, the
S. prolongation of the Bahr Yusuf (p. 231). Close by are the neat
houses and pretty gardens of the officials.
We land at (247 M.) El-Hamra, the palm-enclosed harbour of
Assiut.
Assitt.
The tourist-steamers spend J/j day here. — Railway Station, see p. 219.
Hotel. New Hotel, beyond the stalion, R. 12-15 pias., fair. — Post
Office in the main street. Telegeaph Office at the station. — Steamboat
Agencies, on the Nile. — Agency of the National Bank op Egypt in the
old town.
Carriage to the Barrage (see above) and the Rock Tombs (p. 234), in
ca. 3 hrs., 15 pias. — Donkey for each excursion, 4 pias. and 1 pias. fee.
The drivers and donkey-boys generally speak English.
Consular Agents. The American con.'stilar agent is Qeorge Wissa Bey.
one of the leading inhabitants of the town, residing on the bank of the river,
near El-IIamra. There are al.-io French, German, Italian, Dutch, Russian,
and Au.stria-Hungarian con.sular officers. — Hospital of the American Mission
(see p. 233), with 130 beds and four American physicians ; Government Oph-
thalmic Hospital, near the river.
Pottevy, Tulle Shawls (see p. 233), and other Oriental Goods may be obtained
in the bazaars at lower prices than at Cairo. European goods are dearer.
ASSIUT. 16. Route. 233
Assiut or Siut, the name of which still preserves the ancient
Egyptian Syout, enjoyed oonsideiable importance, even in anti-
quity, chiefly owing to its favouralilc situation in the midst of an ex-
tensive ami fertile plain, I21/2 M. in width, between the Libyan and
the Arabian mountains, and at the beginning of a great caravan route
leading to the oases in the Libyan desert (R. 26) and thence to the
Sfldan. Assiut, however, seems to have been of little prominence
politically. The town was the capital of the Upper Sycamore Nome
and the chief seat of the worship of the god Wep-wairet, who was
represented as a wolf of the desert. This latter circumstance gave
rise to the Greek name Lycopolis, or 'wolf town'. The modern
Assiut, which exteiids for about 3 M. from E. to W., is the largest
town (39,442 inhab., exclusive of 46(54 in Ll-l:lamra| in Upper
Egypt, the capital of a province (768sq. M.; pop., including the
oases of Dakhleh and Khargeh, 903,335), and the residence of the
Mudir. Its manufacturing industry is not UTiimportant. Among the
chief produits are fine red glazed pottery (bottles, pipe-bowls, etc.),
inlaid wood (tables, caskets, walking-sticks), ivory carvings, em-
broidereil leatlier goods, and tjie white and black tulle shawls, with
gold or silver embroidery, which are so oftt-Ti bought by European
ladies. Natron, soda, and grain are also among the principal exports.
The streets and bazaars are full of busy life, especially on Tuesdays,
when the people of the neighbourhood Hock into the market. —
Assiut is OTie of tlie chief seats of the American Presbyterian Mission,
which has in Egypt 273 stations, 197 schools, and 85 churches. Its
training-college iiere (principal, Prof. 11. S. McClenahan), attended
by 700 boys ami 300 girls, deserves a visit.
Ploiinus, the -reatest of the Neo-Platonic i)hilosoi>hcr.s (20r>'J70 A. D.),
was born here, and hia system was not uninlluenced by the priestly
iloctrines of his native, town. From the beginning of the 4th cent, on-
wards Christianity was dominant in the town and nei^libourhood. Pious
believers took refuge in the caves of the necropolis to live a life of
penitence apart from the world. One of these, John of Lycopolis., at the
end of the 4th cent., bore the reputation of a saint and even of a prophet.
The Roman emperor Theodnsius sent an embassy to him to inquire the
outcome of the civil war. The anchorite foretold a complete but bloody
victory, and this prophecy was fulfilled in the victory of Theodosius over
Eugenius at Aquileia in 304 A. O.
From the landing-place at El-Hamra (p. 232) we skirt the
river upstream and then follow the main street diverging to the W.
at the mudiriyeh. Beyond the (V2 ^I-) railway station is the post-
offlce (left). A street to the right leads to the old town with its
picturesque bazaars, sotne of which are still covered. Here are the
College des Frcres, the American Mission Hospital (p. 232), the
Wissa Charitable Secomlary School for boys (600 pupils), and a
government school. The more prosperous native families live in
the quarter of Alenshiyeh. — The main street, issuing from the
town 'in a S.W. direction, is continued by a causeway leading
through cultivated land and across the Soliagiyeh Canal to the —
15*
234 Route 16. ASSIST.
'Rock Tombs of Ancient Assist. We dismount at tlie slaugliter-
liouse, near which the keeper of the tombs lives, and follow a steep
path leading to a —
Large Rock Tomb, which belonged to Hap-zefai, prince of the
nome in the reign of Sesostris I. The Arahs call it IHabl 'Antar,
or the stable of Antar, a hero of tradition (comp. p. 227 ).
Entering the tomb we first find ourselves in a vaulted Passage, on
the right wall of which is the deceased, with a long and now scarcely
legible inscription in front of liim. A doorway, on each side of which
is a figure of the deceased holding a stall', leads hence to the wide Main
Chamber, which has a finely decorated ceiling. On the right halt of the
Entrance Wall is a long inscription containing the text of ten contracts
concluded between the deceased and various priesthoods of his native
city to secure the proper sacrificial offerings to himself and to his statues,
and to provide for the performance of other ceremonies. The corresponding
inscription on the left side of the same wall contains addresses to visitors
to the tomb and an account of the merits of the deceased. A door between
two recesses in the re:ir wall admits us to a second vaulted passage, leading
to a Second Room wilh three recesses. On the rear wall of the central
recess appeared the deceased, four women with lotus-flowers standing be-
fore him; on the side-walls he is shown at table, while three rows of
priests and servants bring gifts to him or perform sacred ceremonies.
The left recess leads to the mummy-shaft.
The *View from this tomh is very fine. The fertile land and
the Nile, enclosed by the limestone hills of Libya on the W. and the
Arabian mountains in the distance to the E., form a quiet but by no
means monotonous setting for the beautiful town of Assiut, with its
minarets and its environment of palm-gardens. The view is still
grander from the higher tombs. Here there is a row of three tombs
close to each other, dating from the obscure period before theMiddle
Empire. The northernmost has been destroyed.
The second is the Kahf el- Anakir, or Soldiers' Tomb, so named
from the rows of warriors armed with spears and large shields on
its S. wall. On the right side of the vestibule appear Kheti^ the
owner of the tomb, and his wife Tef-yeh, with a long and partly
effaced inscription, referring to the otherwise little-known King
Meri-ke-re of Heracleopolis (9th Dyn.). Only a single column is left
standing in the main chamber, in the rear wall of which is a recess
for the statues of the deceased. — A passage has been made from
this tomb to that adjoining it on the S., which belonged to Tef-
yeb. a prince of the nome.
A large *Arab Cemetery stretches across the plain to the N. of
the hill of tombs, with hundreds of domed tombs among its palms.
At the foot of the hill, behind the slaughter-house, is the tomb_ of
another Bap-zefai^ unfortunately much destroyed. It contains some ceiling
ornaments and tasteful paintings of harvest-scenes, etc., upon stucco.
About IV2 M. to the S. of the rock-tombs, on the slope of the Libyan
Mts., is the village of Dronkeh, and 2 N. farther to the S. is the Coptic
convent of Ed-Deir (Deir Jiifeh), near which are several t<jmbs of the
Middle and New Empires. These belong to princes and grandees of the
neighbouring town of Shes-hotep (p. 235l, but beyond some inscriptions
contain nothing of interest. — About 472 M. to the S.E. of Assiut, on the
railway to Upper Egyiit, lies the village of Sholh (Chalh), tlie kgyptian
KAU EL-KEBIU. 17. lioute. 235
Shc^-hotep ;ni(l (he Greek Ilypselis, capital of the Hypselite nome. The
i-liief deity here vvas the ram-headed Khnuui (necropolis, sec p. 234).
An attractive road descends the river from the steamboat landing-
place and crosses the lock-bridge at the mouth of tlie Ibrahimfyeh
Canal to the Barrage (p. 232). To the right is a public garden, to
the left are the handsome buildings of the new American school
and (beyond the canal) the prison.
17. From Assiut to Girgeh and Baliana (Abydos)
by the Nile.
Comp. Map, p. 231.
99 Jf. Tlie (onrist-stcamers lay up for the night at Solidg and in ascend-
ing the river pass Baliana without stopping.
A^siul, see p. 232. The voyage to Akhmim leads through an ex-
tremely fertile and well-cultivated district. Well-tilled fields, broader
on the W. than on the E., adjoin both banks of the river, and are
shaded by fine palms and Nile acacias, especially near the villages.
Here, as in most of Egypt, large quantities of pigeons are kept by
the peasants, chiefly for the sake of their droppings, which form a
valuable manure (comp. p. Ixxi), the dung of the cattle being dried
and used as fuel. Lar»e pigeon-houses, not unlike forts or pylons,
and built of unbaked bricks, clay, and pottery, are visible in all
the villages of Upper Egypt. Most of the pigeons are of the common
grey species and attain a considerable size, but many pretty little
reddish-grey turtle-doves are seen also. The pigeons really consume
more than they produce, so that their encouragement by the fellahin
is rijihtly regarded as a serious mistake in their husbandry.
Nearly opposite Assiut lies the village oi El-Wasta. On the PL
bank the next villages are VA-Bosra. near the Coptic convent De'ir
Bosra, and EL-Ohorayeh, to the E. of which, in the Gebel Rekhdm,
is an alabaster quarry. On the W. bank are Esh-Shayhbeh and El-
Mati'a (rail, station, p. 219).
15 M. (W. blink) Abu Tig or Butly (rail, station, p. 219), witii
a small harbour filled with Nile-boats.
Near the E. bank is El-Baddri, a district-capital with 9255 in-
hab.; on the W. bank follow the railway stations of (21 M.) Sedfa.
(^1^12 M.) Terna, and Mishta (p:219). Opposite Tema, on the
E. bank, beyond the Khizandariyeh Canal (p. 236), is the village
of Hamairuyeli, with rock-tombs of the Ancient Empire; V2 hr. to
the S., on the hill-slope, lies the large Tiecrcpolis of Antaeopolis
(p. 236), containing rock-tombs of the Middle Empire and of later
periods. Not far off are quarries with demotic inscriptions.
SIM. /r«u(?/iar6(W. bank) is opposite KauoT Kduel-Kebir, which
lies in the fertili^ plain on the E. bank. The name Kdu recalls the
ancient Egyptian name of the town Tu-Kow (Coptic Tkow)-^ the
236 Route 17. GEBEL t6kU.
(ireeks named it Antaeopolis, after Antseus wLoni they identified
with the deity worshipped here (necropolis, see p. 235).
According to the myth, Antseus wa<! a Libyan king ofimmense strength,
who was in the habit of wrestling with all visitors to his dominions and
of slaying those whom he vanquished, in order to build a temple to his
fatlier Poseidon with their skulls. Hercules came to try cimclusions with
him and, after overthrowing him in a wrestling-match, slew him. — Ac-
cording to Diodorus the tinal struggle betwixt Horus and Typhon (Seth) took
place here (comp. p. 343). In tlie Roman period Antfeopolis was the capital of
the Anta'opolitan nome. The la''t remains of an imposing temple, dedicated
here by Ptolemy Philometor to Antsens and restored by Marcus Aurelius
and his colleague Verus (164 A.D.), were swept away by the Nile in 1821. —
In a deep grotto like quarry in the N.E. angle of the hill behind Kau are
two pillars bearing two remarkable paintings of the god Antseus and the
goddess Nephthys.
On the E. bank is seen the look-bridge at the mouth of the
Khizandarlyeh Canal. The hills of the Gebel Sheikh el-Harldi^ with
ancient quarries and inscriptions hewn in the rock, approach close
to the river.
38t/2 M. Sdhel, on the W. bank, with 7465 inhab., is the station
for the town of Tahta (p. 219), situated 2 M. inland.
The next steamboat and railway stations are (46 M.) El-Mnrdgha
and (531/2 M.^ Shenddwln ( Chandawil), both on the W. bank (comp.
p. 219). — On the E. bank of the Nile, which here forms several
islands, are some grottoes without inscriptions.
63 M. ( W, bank) Sohag (Souhay), a provincial capital and
railway station (p. 219). — The Nile makes a wide bond towards
tlie N.E. On the E. bank lies Akhmtm, see p. 220.
We next see, close to the E. bank, the conspicuous convent-
village of Deir el-Hadld, resembling a fortress. About 100 men,
women, and children occupy tlie convent. The church is lighted by
windows in the cupolas.
77 M. (W. bank) El-Menshlyeh, a railway station (p. 221).
Beside the village of El-Ahdhveh, on the E. bank, are burial
places of the prehistoric period and the New Empire. On the hill,
close to a sheikh's tomb, are the ruins of an Egyptian brick fortress.
— On the "W. bank is the village of El-Ahaiweh el-Gharbtyeh.
The Oebel Tukh, on the Arabian bank, approaches close to the
stream, about 3 M. below El-Menshiyeh. Extensive quarries (with
Greek , Latin , and demotic inscriptions) exist here, especially
nesiT Sheikh Musa ; these yielded building -material for Ptolemai's
(p. 221). — Where the mountains recede a little, opposite Girgeh,
lie the villages of Deir el-Meldk and ISag' ed-Deir (p. 221). At a
lock-bridge on the W. bank diverges the Oirgawlyeh Canal, which
joins the'Sohagiyeh Canal at Sohag.
89 M. (W. bank) Girgeh (Guerya), a railway station (p. 221).
On the E. bank expands a fertile plain with numerous water-
raising machines. — 99 M. Baliaua, on the W. bank, with a rail-
way station (p. 221), is the starting point for the interesting visit to
Abydos,
237
18. Abydos.
TIio nrdinary traveller, with the average amount of time at his dis-
posal, will ciinline himself to the Temple of SeChos J. and the sadly dilapid-
ated Temple of Ramses II., with possibly a visit to the tomb of SMlnel
ez-Zebib. — Good donkey?, with European saddles, may be obtained at the
railway station and hotel of Baliana (p. 221; 15 nias., with bakshish of
5 pjas.)- Carriage there and back, with stay of 2 hrs., £E I.
Abydos lies about 6'/2 M. I'rom Baliana, a ride of I-IV4 hr.
Tlie track crosses the railway a little to the N. of the station and
follows the telegraph-wires along an embankment. Beyond the
hamlet of El-Hegz it crosses a canal, traverses a fertile district dot-
ted with numerous villages, and reaches the village (2400 inhab.) of
El-'Ardba oi'Araba el-Madfuneh (i.e. 'buried 'Araba'), on the other
side of the Kasreh Canal. The view of the well-cultivated and popu-
lous plain, and of the mountains to the E., is very fine. On the
verge of the arable land lay the ancient Abydos, which extended
from 'Araba to El-Kherbeh (p. 243).
Abydos (Egypt. Abotu) was one of the most ancient cities in
Egypt and played an important role under the first dynasty as the
burial-place of the kings and grandees. The town and its necropolis
were both devoted to the worship of the dog -formed death -god
Khente-Amentiu, 'the first of the inhabitants of the "Western King-
dom'. Even under the Ancient Empire, however, the cult of Osiris
(which originated in the Delta) made good its footing at Abydos.
Osiris took possession of the ancient temple and was raised to an
equality with Khente-Amentiu. The tomb of Osiris was transferred
to Umm el-Ga'^ab, and in the days of the 6th Dynasty it became
usual to inter the dead from all parts of Egypt at Abydos. Just as
the Shiite Mohammedan cherishes no dearer wish than to be buried
near the tomb of Hosein (p. 54) at Kerbela, so the pious Egyptian
desired no better fortune than to have his corpse carried to Abydos,
there to find its last abode beside the tomb of Osiris. Those who
were unable to do this, or who had built tombs elsewhere, often
caused their mummies to be brought temporarily to Abydos, to re-
ceive the desired consecration and to spend some time at least
with Osiris. Many contented themselves with merely erecting a
memorial stone or a cenotaph in the necropolis, thereby assuring
to themselves the favour of Osiris, the lord of the underworld. —
Isis, the wife of Osiris, his son Ilorus, and, under the New Empire,
Ptah, Harakhte, and Anion were likewise worshipped there.
Strabo gives an inlen'Stiti'^ .iccoiint of Abydos: 'Above it (Ptolemai's)
lies Abydos, the site of i\\t Meinnonium, a wonderful |ialace of stone, built
in the manner of the Labyrinth (i>. 195), only somewhat less elaborate in its
complexity. Below the Jlemnonium is a spring, reached by passages with
low vaults consisting of a sini^le stone and remarkable for their e.xtent
and mode of construction. This spring is connected with the Nile by a
canal, which tlows through a grove of Kgyptian thorn-acacias, sacred
to Apollo. Abydos seems once to have been a large city, second only to
Thebes, but now it is a small place.' This spring may perhaps have been
a nilometer. Ammianus Marcellinus speaks of the oracle of the god Bes,
which flourished here.
238 Route IS. ABYDOS. Temple
The most important part of ancient Abydos was its extensive
Necropolis, situated in the desert. Four distinct sections are clearly
traceable. In the southernmost, beside El-'Araba (p. 237), are tombs
of the New Empire and the temples of Sethos and IJamses. To the
N. of this rises a hill, with graves dating from the close of the An-
cient Empire. Still farther to the N., between the sanctuary of Osiris
(Kom es-Sultan) and the tomb of Shunet ez-Zebib (p. 243), are
the tombs of the Middle Empire, many in the form of small brick
pyramids. Here are found also graves of the 18-20th Dyn. and of
the later period. Finally, in the hill of Umm el-Ga'ab (p. 243), to
the W., are the tombs of the kings of the earliest dynasties and
the sacred grave of Osiris. — The chief centre of interest is the —
*Temple of Sethos I., the Memnonium of Strabo. This won-
derful structure, built by Sethos I. and completed by Ramses II., was
almost completely excavated in 1859 by Mariette, at the expense
of the viceroy Sa'id. The walls consist of fine-grained limestone,
while a harder variety has been selected for the columns, archi-
traves, door-posts, and other burden-bearing portions. The Beliefs
dating from the reign of Sethos I. are among the finest productions
of Egyptian sculpture of any age.
The ground -plan diiTers materially from that of other great
Egyptian temples. Instead of one sanctuary it has seven, dedicated
to Osiris, Isis, Horus, Ptah, Harakhte, Amon, and the deified
king; and as each of these had a special cult the entire front por-
tion of the temple is divided into seven parts, each with its separate
gateway and portals. The chambers behind the sanctuaries are not
arranged behind each other as in other temples, but side by side.
Another remarkable peculiarity consists in the wing (p. 241) con-
taining various halls, chambers, etc., which stands at right angles
to the main building (comp. p. clxvi).
We enter the temple from the N.E. The first pylon is in ruins
and the first coxirt is still occupied by modern huts.
The Second Court, whicb opens to the S. on the temple proper,
is in better preservation. The sons and daughters of Ramses II.
were represented oti the wall on the inner side of the pylon, but
the figures and inscriptions have been almost effaced. On the right
and left walls appears Ramses II., sacrificing to different gods; on
each side are steles of Ramses II. At the back of the court a
low incline ascends to the vestibule of the temple proper, which
is supported by 12 square piers of limestone and originally had
seven doors in its rear wall. On the wall, to the left of the main
entrance, is a Large Inscription in 95 vertical lines, in which
Ramses II. describes in florid language the completion of the temple.
In the adjoining relief Ramses is shown presenting an image of the
goddess Maat to a triad consisting of Osiris, Isis, and his father
Sethos I., who takes the place of Horus. On the wall are other
representations of Ramses in presence of the gods. — The seven
Engraved iSjTiiitedlij-
ofSelhnsl. ABYDO?>. 18. Route. 239
original doors corresponded to the seven sanctuaries of tbe temple.
Processions in honour of the king seem to have entered by the door
to the extreme left; the next served for processions to Ptali, the third
for Harakhte, the fourth for Amon, the fifth for Osiris, the sixth
for Isis, and the seventh for Ilorus. Ramses, however, walled vip
six of these doors, leaving the central one alone as the main entrance
to the temple.
The present entrance is by the ancient main door. We first
enter the First Hypostyle Hall, which is about 57 yds. wide by
12 deep. The roof, part of which has fallen in, is supported by
24 clustered papyrus-columns, with bud-capitals. The columns
arc so arrans^ed that two pairs stand on each side of the five central
processional aisles, while the two outermost aisles are each flanked
on one side by the walls of the temple. The representations on the
shafts of the columns represent the king before the deity to whom
the aisle led, sometimes accompanied by the other deities of his
triad. Thus in the Amon aisle we see Ramses 11. before Amon,
Mut, and Khons; in the Ptah aisle, the king before Ptah, Sekhmet
(Hathor), and Nefertem. The sculptures (reliefs 'en creux') are
of mediorre workmanship; they date from Ramses II., who here
forgot his filial piety so far as to chisel away his father's reliefs to
make room for his own. The only interesting Mural Rbpkesenta-
TioNs arc those in the lower row on the end-wall to the right. To
the right Thout and Horus pour over Ramses II. the holy water in
the form of the hieroglyphics for 'purity' and 'life'; to the left
Wepwawet, with a wolfs head, and Horus, with a falcon's head,
'the avenger of liis father', hold the hieroglyphic for 'life' to the
king's nose close by, to the right, is Hathor of Dendera; farther
to the left, Ramses hands to Osiris and his companions, Isis and
Horus, a case for papyrus-rolls in the shape of a column held by
a kneeling king, with a falcon's head on the top as a lid.
Seven doors, placed in the axes of the built-up entrance-doors
and the sanctuaries, lead from this first hall into the Second Hypo-
style Hall. The architrave, on which rest the roofing slabs, is sup-
ported by 30 columns, arranged on either side of the processional
aisles in pairs on the same system as in the preceding hall. The
24 columns in the first two rows of columns have papyrus -bud
capitals. Beyond the second row the floor of the temple is con-
siderably raised, forming a platform upon which stands the third
row of columns. These are tree-trunk columns (p. clviii), with
cylindrical shafts and no capitals, on which rest stone slabs form-
ing an abacus for the support of the architrave. The inscrip-
tions and representations on the walls and columns date from the
reign of Sethos and are of admirable workmanship, but their subjects
are of little general interest. The wonderful '^Reliefs on the right end
of the hall (PI. b] should not be overlookcil. Here, to the right, we
see iScthos I. standing before Osiris and Horus, holding a censer and
240 RotUe 18. AI5VD0S. Temple
pouring water from three vases embellished with flowers. In the
next scene the king with the censer appears before a shrine in the
midst of which Osiris is enthroned; in front of the god stand Maat
and Konpet (goddess of the year) and behind are Isis, Amentet (god-
dess of the West), and Nephthys, with nine small gods of the dead
in the background. On Pier c is a representation of the highly ad-
orned sacred post Tet, the symbol of Osiris of Busiris (p. cli), to the
right and left of which stands the king, wearing the crown of Lower
Egypt (comp. the representation on the pier in the S. wall, PI. d).
To the left of Pier e the king presents an image of Maat to Osiris,
Isis, and Horus. The kings profile is evidently a faithful likeness
and is everywhere portrayed with great artistic skill.
Adjoining this hall, in a direct line with the seven entrance
doors, are Seven Sanctuaries, of which that in the middle was
dedicated to Amon, the chief deity under the New Empire. To
the right are the sanctuaries of Osiris, Isis, and Horus ; to the left
those of Harakhte, Ptah, and the king. Each contained the sacred
boat of its god and was shut off by a folding door. The central chapel
was approached by a flight of steps, the others by inclined planes.
The roofs of these chapels are not vaulted in the strict architec-
tural signification of that word; they are formed of two horizontal
courses, each projecting over the one below, and rounded off by the
chisel to the form of an arch. The vaults are decorated with stars
and the names of Sethos I., while the walls are covered with reliefs,
illustrating the ceremonies that took place in the sanctuaries. The
colouring is in excellent preservation. In the piers separating the
doors are square recesses, which are likewise adorned with reliefs.
Those who desire to examine more particularly the sanctuaries and
shrines should begin with the King's Sanctuaet, to the left. Left Wall.
Lower row (from left to right): three dog-headed gods and three falcon-
headed gods bear the king into the sanctuary, preceded by a priest, with
the lock of youth and a panther-skin, ollering incense ; the king seated
on a throne at a banquet, with his guardian-spirit behind hiui and the
ibis-headed god Thout in front ; the gifts oflered to tlie king are recounted
in a long list in front of the god. Upper row: the> priest in presence of
nine gods (in three rows); the king between Thout and Nekhbeyet, on the
right, and Horus and Bnto, oti the left, who bestow ble'isings upon him;
Thout and the priest sacrificing to the sacred boat of the king, which is
adorned with king's heads on stem and stern and stands in a shrine
crowned with serpents; the priest before the king is obliterated. — Right
Wall. Lower row (from left to right) : the king with his guardian-spirit and
the priest, as on the opposite wall; the king seated beside Nekhbeyet and
Buto on a throne supported by the written symbol for 'union', about which
Thout and Horus wind the characteristic plants of Upper and Lower Egypt
(a scene symbolizing the union of Kgypt under the king); to the right
Seshet inscribes the king's name for eternity; the priest before nine gods.
Upper row : the priest and Thout before the (defaced) image of the king,
while six gods, with the heads of dogs and falcons, bring vases to him ;
Mont and Atum conduct the ruler to the temple, followed by Isis. — The
Rear Wall in this and all the other sanctuaries except that of Osiris (see
p. 241) was occupied by two false doors (p. clxviii). surmounted by round
pediments and separated by the representation of a flower on which a
serpent lies. — Kiche /. To the left Thout holds the symbol of 'life' to
the king's nose: to the right Thout and the king sit facing each other; on
ofSeiho.'^ I. ABYDOS. 18. Route. 241
the rear wall tbc priest of the dead oilers incense before tlie king. —
Sanctuakt of Ptah (fiartly destroyed). On the side-walls the kins is
shown worshippiuiT I'tah. — NifHE (jr. Sethos before Ptah (rear), Ilarakhto,
(right), and Sokhmet (left). — Sanctuakt of H.mjaicbth. The reliefs here
represent the king before Ihirnklite, Atuni, the goddess Ews-os of Heliopolis,
and Ilathor. — Kiche /i. The king before Amon-Re (rear), Miit (right), and
Jlarakhte (left), to whom he offers an image of Waat. — Sanctdar? of
Amom. Sethos here sacrilices to the various forms of Anion and ofi'ers in-
cense to the sacred boats of Amou (adorned with ranis' heads), Khons,
and Blut (these two adorned with the heads of the deities), which stand
in a shrine. The colouring here is in excellent preservation, and the in-
scriptions on the fal.se door, dating from the Greek period, should be
noticed. — ^iche i. The king anoints Anion (rear), offers incense to Khons
(right), and sacrifices to Miit (left). — Sanctuary of Osiris. The king in
presence of various forms of Osiris, who is frequently accompanied by
Isis or other gods; at the top of the right wall he sacrifices to the sacred
boat of Osiris, and at the top of the left wall he offers incense to the
reliquary of Osiris at Abydos, which stands beneath a canopy with five
images of deities borne on poles in front of it; on each side of the
entrance is the king before the wnlf-headed Wep-wawet. — Niche k.
The king before Osiris, Isis, and Nut. — Sanctoakt of Isis. Sethos
appears before Isis, who is frequently accompanied by her son, the falcon-
headed Horus, and the boat of Isis. — Niche I. The king before Osiris,
Horns, and Isis. — Sanctoakt of Hords. The king in presence of the
falcon-headed Horns. Isis, and the boat of Horus.
A door in the Osiris Chapel leads to a series of chambers dedicated to
the special rites in honour of Osiris. We first enter the Western HaU,
the roof of which was supported by ten columns (without capitals). To
the right of this lay three small chambers, adorned with fine coloured
sculpture and dedicated respectively to Horus, Osiris, and Isis. Behind
them lies another room (PI. ni ; closed). To the left on entering the
Western Hall is a door leadin:j: to a room with four columns, which was
adjoined by three smaller apartments (PI. n, o, p). These are much damaged.
South Wing. This building consists of a series of rooms, a
slaughter-yard, store-rooms, etc The most important, to which a
visit should be paid even if all the others be omitted, is the long,
slightly ascending corridor known as the —
*GAi,iiERY OF THE KiNGS, entered from the left side of the second
hypostyle hall, between the second and third row of columns. On
the right wall is the famous List of Kings. Sethos I., with the
censer, and the crown-prince Ramses (with the side-lock of youth)
reciting hymns from a papyrus-roll, are seen revering their royal
ancestors, the names of 7(5 of whom are inscribed in the two upper
rows. The list begins with Menes, the first king of Egypt, and ex-
tends down to Sethos, the names of unimportant or illegitimate rulers
being omitted. Above the list is the inscri])tion : 'The performance
of the prayer for tlie dead — May Ptah-Solcer-Ostrls, lord of the tomb,
mho dwells in the teinple of Sethos, increase the gifts for the kings
of Upper and Lower Egypt — by King Sethos; 1000 loaviis of bread,
1000 barrels of beer, 1000 rattle, 1000 geese, 1000 incense-offer-
ings, etc., by King Sethos for King Menes' etc. (here follows the
list}. In the lowest row the phrases 'by King Men-ma-re', 'by the
son of Re, Sethos' are repeated over and over again.
This list of kings is of great historical importance, as partly by its
aid it has been possible to fix the order of succession of the Egyptian
kings. Another similar list is mentioned at p. 275.
242 Route I a. ABYDOS. Temple of Sethos J.
Oil the left wall of the corridor we again meet Sethos and the
youthful Ramses. The father holds a censer in his left hand, while
the son, adorned with the priestly panther-skin, pours a libation on
the altar in front of him. The inscription contains a long list of
the names and shrines of gods whom Sethos and his son are here
honouring with .sacrificial gifts.
In the centre of the right wall a door leads into a Passage,
beyond which is a vaulted stone staircase, which led out of tlie
cmple but was built up in ancient times.
The Reliefs in the pas.'fage date from Ram.ses H. On the right wall the
king and a prince appear lassoing a, bull in presence of the wolf-headed god
Wep-wawet. Farther to the left this animal is being sacrificed to the,
god Wep-wawet. On the left wall Ramses conducts four sacred oxen to
Khons and King Sethos ; further to the left Ramses paces out the precincts
of the temple (comp. p. 306); Ramses and four gods are netting birds;
Ramses and a prince offer the captured geese to Amon and Mut.
Another door (now built up) in the right wall of the Kings' Gallery led
to the Halt, of this Bauks, a small chamber (now inaccessible) snpi)orted
by six columns and adorned partly with paintings by Sethos I., partly with
reliefs 'en creux' by Kamses II. The benches by the walls were probably
intended for the sacrificial gifts.
The other rooms of this S. wing are all more or loss in ruins.
From the S. end of the Kings' Gallery, where Coptic prayers have
been written up in red, we enter the Slaughter Court, surrounded
with seven columns, which was never completed. The sculptures
and hieroglyphics were slietched in colour under Sethos, and only a
few of them were afterwards finished as reliefs 'en creux'. They
represent Sethos sacrificing. The scenes in the lower row depict the
slaughter and cutting up of sacrificial animals. The screen between
the first column and the left wall was intended to veil the proceed-
ings in the court from the Kings' Gallery.
Adjoining this conrt are four unfinished rooms (PI. A, B, C, D). In
the first three the designs on the wall.s are merely sketched in; in D they
have been completed in colour. — Of Rooms E-I, which lie one story
higher, H and I are filled with rubbish, E-G contain unfinished represent-
ations dating from the reign of Amenephthes. — Beyond Boom D, outside
the temple proper, lies a deep circular well.
Returning now to the second hypostyle hall, we may pay a brief
visit to the Chamber which adjoins it on the left and was dedicated
to Ptah-Soker, god of the dead at Memphis. The roof is supported
by three tree-trunk columns (p. 239 ). The fine reliefs show Sethos
revering Soker, Nefertem, and other gods.
Opening otT this chamber are two small vaulted chapels; that to the
right dedicated to Soker, that to the left to Nefertem. On the left wall
of the former is a relief of Horus and Isis by the bier of Osiris, on whose
mummy sits a falcon (Isis); at the head .and feet of the mummy are two
other falcons, with drooping wings. On the right wall are Isis and Horus
by the bier of Soker-Osiris, whose left hand is raised to his brow.
About 40 yds. to the W. of the temple of Sethos, and in the same axis,
lies a building constructed by Amenephthes in an artificial mound. The
m.Tin chamber is adorned with religious scenes. This has been taken for
a Shrine of Osiris (Osireion), but is more probably a cenotaph of Sethos I.
Bcxavations were begun here in 1911 by the Egypt Exploration Fund,
Tfmple of Ram^f!' 1 1 . ABTDOS. 18. Route. 243
A few minutes to the N. of the Toinple of Sethos 1., partly
beneath the modern village, lies a Temple of Ramses J., and close
by is the Temple of Ramses II., which also was dedicated to Osiris
and the cult o'i the deceased king. The latter temple is in a very
ruinous state hut still presents many features of interest. The
scanty traces of a spacious court may he made 6nt in front of the
present entrance. Within, the ground -plan of a peristyle court
( decorated with pillars and figures of Osiris, like the Kamesseum,
p. 307), two halls, the sanctuaries beyond them, and various other
rooms can still be traced; but the average height of the remaining
walls is only 5-6 ft. To judge by the extant remains, this temple
was a much more sumptuous and more carefully built structure
than any of the other buildings of Ramses 11. known to us. Not
only fine-grained limestone, but also red and black granite (for the
door-frames), sandstone (for the columns), and alabaster (for the
innermost shrinel were used. The still brilliantly coloured mural
decorations in the rear rooms are in delicate low relief recalling the
admirable sculptures under Sethos I. ; the ruder reliefs 'en creux'
occur only in the court and the first hall, with the adjoining rooms.
The reliefs in the first court depict a grand procession.
On the right (N.) wall peasants are shown bringina; oxen, antelopes,
geese, and other animals to four priests, of vvhcuu the first records the
gifts, while the second offers incense; farther to the right, the animals are
being alaui^htered. On the left (E. and 8.) walls are similar scenes. To the
left as we enter are persons with sacrificial gifts, who are met by a pro-
cession of priests, soldiers, the royal war-chariot, captive net;roes and
Asiatics, etc. The colouring of the figures is surprisingly well preserved.
— In the rooms behind are much damaged religious representations.
On the outside of the temple (X. and W. sides) is an inscription relating
to the war waged by Ramses 11. against the Hittites ; unfortunately only the
lower parts of the lines are preserved. Adjacent are representations of
events in the war, similar to those of the Ramesseum at Thebes (comp.
p. 306). The exterior of the S. wall bears a long inscription, recounting
the building of the temple and its endowments.
To the N.W. of the Temple of Ramses II. lies the ruin of Slumet
ez-Zeb7b, surrounded by two walls. It has been supposed to be an
ancient fortress but is more probably a tomb.
A few hundred yards to the N.E. of Shunet ez-Zebib, near the
village of El-Kherbeh, lie the ruins of tlie ancient city of Abydos
and of the Sanctuary of Osiris, dating hack to the beginning of Egyp-
tian history. The enclosing walls, built of brick in the Middle Em-
pire, and some scanty traces of the temple are extant.
To the W. of this point lies the Coptic convent of Deir es-Sitteli
Damidneh, or Ariba Musa, which looks more like a village than a convent.
Although the church is interesting for its seven contiguous chapels, the
convent scarcely repays a visit.
The ruhbishniounds at the foot of the hills, 1 M. to the S.W. of 'the
temple of Ramses II., called by the Arabs TJmm el-Ga'ab ('mother of pots'),
contain tomlis of kings of the 1st and 2nd Egyptian dynasties, including
those of Zer (p. 98; regarded even under the Middle Empire as the tomb of
Osiris), Vsap/ialt, and Miebis (1st Dyn.), They were explored by Amclineau
and Klinders Petrie, but there is now practically nothing to be seen.
Near the village of Ghulxit, lo the. S. of Abydos, is an ancient quarry.
244
19. From Baliana to Keneh (Dendera) and Luxor
by the Nile.
To Keneh, 65 M., Steamboat upstream in 9 lirs., downstream 6 hrs. —
From Keneh to Luxor, 39 M., steamboat in 5 lirs. — For the former stage,
eomp. 'Map, p. 231.
Baliana, see^p. 221. — Above Baliana the course of the Nile
lies almost due E. and W. The BAm Palm (Hyphsena Thebaica)
becomes more and more common and increases in size and beauty
as we travel southwards (comp. p. Ixxvi). At Abu Shiisheh (rail, sta-
tion, p. 222) the river makes a wide bend to tlie N. The Arabian
hills (Gehel Tartf) approach close to the river.
28 M. Nag' Hamddi, on the W. bank, is a railway station (p. 222).
The large railway-bridge crossing the river here is opened at certain
hours for the passage of ships.
31 M. Hou [Hu; W. bank), at one of the sharpest bends in the
stream, is a large fellah village. It was the home of Sheikh Selim,
who died in 1891, at a very advanced age, after sitting stark naked
for 53 years on the bank of the Nile at the spot now marked by his
tomb a little above the village. He was deemed to possess great
powers in helping navigation. His son, in a flag-decked boat, col-
lects alms from passing voyagers. In the neighbourhood are the
scanty ruins of the ancient Diospolis Parva.
34 M. El-Kasr {El-Qasr or Kasr es-Saiylid; E. bank) is probably
the ancient Chenoboskiov. A little to the N. of the village are seen
the high white walls enclosing the Convent of St. George (Deir McLri
Oirgis). — Near the railway station of Ed- Dab eh, in the vicinity, are
.incient rock-tombs (p. 222).
Farther on we pass a fine mountain mass (N.), especially im-
posing by afternoon-liglit, and see several thriving villages situated
close to the river (on the E. bank, Esh-Sha'mhjeh and El-Yasimyeh ;
on the W, bank, Er-Raisiyeh). The mountains on the N. recede,
leaving a wide fertile area at their base.
431/2 M. Fdu (E. bank), a railway station (p. 222).
461/2 M. Deshna (E. bank), another railway station (p. 222).
65 M. Keneh (E. bank), also with a railway station (p. 222).
The tourist- steamers moor at the W. bank, for the visit to
Dendera.
Dendera.
A hasty visit to the temple at Dendera may be accomplished in 3 brs.
Donkeys (no side-saddles) meet the tourist-steamers. The visitor should
not fail to be provided with candles or (better still) an electric or a mag-
nesium lamp for exploring the crypts and other parts of the temple. —
From the Railway Station of Keneh to Dendera, see p. 223.
The distance from the landing-place to the ruius of Dendera, the
rubbish-heaps of which are conspicuous from afar, is about 3^/4 M.,
easily accomplished on donkey-back in about 40 miii. ( comp. p. 223).
Q
DENDERA, 7.9. Route. 245
Dendera, the Tentyra of the Greeks, is one of the most ancieut
and most famous cities of Egypt, and was the capital of the sixth
nome of Upper Egypt. Its ancient name was Enet, or Enet-te-ntore,
'■Enet of the Goddess' {i.e. of Hathor), of which the Greek and mod-
ern Arabic names are corruptions. Enet was the chief seat of the
worship of Hathor (the Egyptian Aphrodite), goddess of love and
joy. Along with her husband, the falcon-headed Horns ofEdfu,
and her son, the youthful Ehi or Har-sem-tewe (^'Horus, uniter of
both lands'; Gr. Harsomtus; comp. p. 344), she was worshipped in
the magnificent temple which remains here to this day. Her chief
festival synchronized with the great feast of the New Year.
The gate, to which our road leads and where the cards of ad-
mission (see p. 200) are shown, forms the N. termination of the
wall of Nile bricks enclosing the temple. The total enclosure is
317 yds. long and 306 yds. wide, and besides the large Temple
of Hathor contains a small Temple of Isis and a so-called Birth
House (^p. 250). The N. Gate was built under the Emp. Domitian,
who is here named Germanicus. On the side next the temple
appear the names of Nerva and Trajanus, also with the epithet of
Germanicus (^Trajan is here also called Dacicus). There is another
similar gate (now much sanded up) on the E. side ; while beyond
the temple -precincts, also to the E., is a third gate, dating from
the Roman Imperial epoch. — Straight in front of the N. gate
lies the —
"•'•'Temple of Hathor, the orientation of which is practically N.
and S. Though still partly buried in the accumulated rubbish of
centuries, this temple is in better preservation than any other an-
cient Egyptian temple except those of Edfu and Fhilae. It was
built in the first century !>.('. during the reigns of the later Ptolemies
and of Augustus; but it occupies the site of an older edifice, going
back traditionally to the period of the Ancient Empire, and added
to or altered not only by the kings of the 12th Dyn., but also by
the great mouarchs of the New Empire, such as Thutmosis 111.,
Ramses II., and Ramses III. The decoration of the temple-walls
with reliefs went on to a still more recent date. In accordance
with the plan of other temples (comp. Plan of Edfu, p. 344) a
colonnade and two large pylons should stand in front of the great
■vestihule ; but perhaps the means to add these were not forth-
coming. If we compare the temple of Dendera with a similar struc-
ture of the earlier period, such as the temple of Abydos (p. 238)
or the great national sanctuary of Karnak (p. 265), we find it not
less beautii'ul in its own way, though of course far from competing
with these gigantic structures in magnificence or extent. Its chief
characteristics are a fine symmetry of proportions and dignified adap-
tation to its purposes. Neither the figures nor the inscriptions
sculptured on the walls compare in masterly execution with those
in the tombs of the Ancient Empire or with those in temples dating
246 Route W. DENDERA. Temple
fiom the reigns of Tlmtmosis III. and Setlios I. : but wo. cannot
refuse our admiration even to these products of later Egyptian art.
We first enter the Great Vestibule, or Pronaos, which has
24 sistrum-columns with heads of Hathor (p. clxi). At the top of
the fa(^ade is a huge concave cornice, in the middle of which is the
winged sun-disk.
<Jn the upper edge of the cornice is the fnllowins Greek inscription
of three lines: I'lrsp AuTOxpotTopo? Ttpspiou KaCsapo? Kio\) SEpaatoO deoC
ilspaaxoO uioO iid A'jXou AuiXX(ou 'tXdxxou TjYEfjiovoc xal AuXoo (tcuXoutou
Kptanou EittJTOOTTjYOU 2apait(u)vo<; Tpuydfxpo'j oTpaTYJYoOvTO? oi duo Tf]c (at)-
Tpon6/.e<U(; xa'i tou vo(jlou to itpovaov 'Atp poSEtTTQi i>Edi jxEYtaTT)! xal TOi? ouv-
^doi? SeoI?. L [ ... TipJEpiou Katoapoj; . . . ]. — For [behoof of] the Em-
peror Tiberius, the young Augustus^ son of the divine Auguslns, under the prefect
Anli/s Avillins Flaccvs, the governor Anliis Fulvins Crispi's, and the district
governor Snrapion. son of Trvchambos, the inhabitants of the capital and of
the nome dedicated the Pronaos to the great goddess Aphrodite and her fellow
gods, in the .... yenr of the Emp. Tiberius . . . .
The exterior front of the hall is enclosed by six stone screens
between the columns in the first row. The interior walls of the pro-
naos are decorated with four rows of representations. These depict
the rulers (in succession the Roman emperors Augustus, Tiberius,
Caligula, Claudius, and Nero) advancing with votive offerings for
Hathor and other gods. The mutilated reliefs on the screens be-
tween the columns (PL a-f) refer to the ceremonial entrance of the
ruler into the temple.
Reliefs on thk Screens. Th the right of the entrance (Pl.a, 6, c):
at a we see the king, wearing the crown of Lower Egypt, quitting the
palace, followed by his guardian-spirit and preceded by a priest offer-
ing incense; at 6 the falcon -headed Horus and the ibis -headed Thout
sprinkle the king with drops of water farming the symbol of life; at c
the goddesses of Upper and Lower Egypt bestow blessings upon the king.
To the left (on the W. wallj is a relief: the king is conducted before
Hathor by the gods Jlont of Hermonthis and Atum of Heliopolis. — The
representations at PI. d. e, /, to the left of the entrance, are similar,
except that at d the king wears the crown of Upper Egypt.
The sculptured Diagrams on the Ceiling are interesting also. They
are divided by the columns into seven bands, running from end to end
of the Pronaos, and refer to astronomical subjects. 1st Band (to the ex-
treme left; PI-/). Nut, goddess of the sky; beneath her are pictures of
the Zodiac and boats with personilicatious of the stars. The sun shines
upon the temple of Dendera, here typitied by ahead of Hathor. 2nd Band.
Deities of the stars and the Hours of the day and night. 3rd Band. Phases
of the Moon and the course of the Sun during the 12 hours of the day.
4th Band (in the centre). Flying vultures and sun-disks. Bands 5-7 repeat
the scenes in Bands 3-1.
The rear wall of this great vestibule forms the facade of the
temple proper; it is surmounted by a concave cornice and a round
moulding. In the centre is a door leading to the —
Hypostyle Hall ('Hall of the Appearance'), the roof of which is
supported by six columns, with elaborate foliage-capitals on which
heads of Hathor also appear. The base and lowest two di'ums of each
column are of granite, the remainder of sandstone. Eight square
apertures in the ceiling admit the light. Four rows of reliefs on
the walls exhibit the king before the gods of Dendera. In this and
I -XI SI
II <M'ii()nis ;u
111 Side Chapels
LcLboratory
Treasury
Boor
( built up)
G reat Vestibule
■
or Pro n ao s
I
Door
I built up )
of Hathor. DENDERA. 19. Route. 247
all the following rooms of the temple, with the exception of the
second store-room to the left of this hall and the crypts (p. 248), the
cartouches of the king are left empty, probably because the priests
were in doubt as to which ruler should be selected for honour in
the unsettled times during which the temple was built.
Some of the Reliefs in the lower row, representing the ceremonies
performed by the kinii at the foundation of the temple, deserve notice. To
the right of the Entrance (PI. g) : the king, wearing the crown of Lower
Egypt, quits his palace, preceded by a priest offering incense; to the left
the king cleaves the earth with a hoe on the site of the temple — turns
the first sod, as we should express it; in front of him is the goddess
Hathor. — To (he left of the Entrance (PI. h): the king, with the crown
of Upper Egypt, quits his palace (as above) ; to the right he presents
Hathor with bricks, representing the building-material for the new temple.
On each side of this hall are three Chambers, used as laboratory,
treasury, and store-rooms for the sacrificial incense, etc. The in-
scriptions and representations show the Pharaoh in presence of
Hathor, the lion-headed Horns of Dendera, and other gods.
We next enter the First Antechamber ('Sacrificial Chamber"),
which is lighted by apertures in the roof and walls and is decorated
with four rows of mural reliefs. The latter, with reference to the
purpose of the chamber, represent the king presenting different
ofiferings to Hathor and other deities. To the right and left are pass-
ages, leading to the staircases which ascend to the roof of the
temple (p. 249). On the left is also a small chamber used for sacri-
ficial offerings.
The Second Antechamber ('Central Hall'), which we next enter,
is lighted by means of apertures in the side-walls and has four
rows of bas-reliefs on the walls. A door to the left opens into a
small room used as a Wardrobe., in which perfumes were preserved
as well as the sacred garments with which the images of the
goddess were embellished at festivals. — The corresponding door
oi\ the right side of the hall leads to three connected Rooms, which
to a certain extent form a special enclosed sanctuary, within the
large temple. We see here first a small store-room, connected by
a Corridor (PI. i) witli the W. staircase (p. 249). Thence we enter
an open Court, beyond which is a charming Kiosque, approached
by steps and supported by two sistrum-columns. These are con-
nected with the side-walls by two stone screens rising to half the
height of the columns. Here the priests assembled to celebrate
the birthday of Hathor and the immediately following great new
year's festival. The sacrificial gifts were ofi'ered in the court, as
represented on the left (E.) wall. The walls of the kiosque are em-
bellished with three rows of representations, showing the king and
various deities in presence of the gods of Dendera. Just above the
floor is a procession of local deities (1., those ofUpper Egypt, r.,
those of Lower Egypt) bearing gifts. On the ceiling the sky-goddess
Nut is depicted with the sun rising from her lap and shining upon
a head of Hathor, that typifies the temple of Dendera.
Babdeekk's Egypt. 7th Edit. 16
248 Route 19. DENDERA. Temple
We return to the second antechamber in order to visit thence
the innermost part of the temple, 'the hidden secret chambers', as
they are called in the inscriptions.
The central door leads to the profoundly dark Sanctuary, 'the
great seat', in which the sacred boats with the images of the gods
formerly stood. The king alone, or his sacerdotal representative,
might enter this sacred precinct and in solitude commune with
the deity. Only once a year was this permitted even to him, at the
great festival of the new year. The reliefs on the walls depict the
rites which the king had to perform on entering the sanctuary, and
the sacrifices which he had to offer.
There are three rows of Reliefs, but only the lowest can be distinctly
seen even with the aid of an electric or a magnesium lamp. The reliefs
are so arranged that each scene on the Left Wall (PI. k), beginning at
the entrance, is followed in historical sequence by the corresponding scene
on the Right Wall (PI. 1). 1 (left) The king ascends the steps to the shrine
of the gods; 2 (right) removes the band fastening the door; 3 (1.) breaks
the seal on the door; 4 (r.) opens the door; 5 (1.) gazes upon the god-
dess; 6 (r.) prays to her with his arms hanging down; 7 (1.) offers incense
before the sacred boats of Hathor and Horus of Edfu; and (8; r.) before
the boats of Hathor and Har-sem-tewe. — Hear Wall (PI. m). To the left,
the king, before whom is the youthful son of Hathor with sistrum and
rattle, presents an image of the goddess Maat to Hathor and Horus of
Edfu ; to the left, the same ceremony before Hathor and Har-sem-tewe.
The Sanctuary is surrounded by a Coekidoe, lighted by aper-
tures in the side-walls and in the ceiling, and entered from the
second antechamber by means of two side-doors. Opening off this
corridor are 11 Small Chambbes (PI. I-XI), which were used as
chapels dedicated to various deities, as store-rooms, and for different
religious purposes. Room I, which is embellished with reliefs like
those in the Sanctuary, contained a shrine with an image of Hathor.
A modern iron staircase in this room leads to a small Niche in the S.
wall, containing a relief of Hathor.
Before ascending to the roof of the temple, we should visit the
subterranean chambers, or Crypts, in which were preserved such
sacrificial vessels and images of tlie gods as were no longer in use.
They claim attention not only for their remarkable construction but
also for the fresh tints of their paintings. The temple contains no
fewer than 12 crypts, constructed in the thickness of the temple
walls in different stories and entered by narrow flights of steps or by
openings concealed by movable stone slabs. Their elaborate mural
reliefs date from the reign of Ptolemy XIII. Neos Diouysos, and are
therefore the oldest as well as the best executed decorations in the
temple. The custodian will open, on request, the locked crypts
(Nos. 4 and 7), both of which are worth a visit (magnesium wire or
a lamp desirable). Comp, the accompanying Plans.
In Crypt iV'o. 4, which we enter through a square opening in the pave-
ment, are several narrow chambers, on the walls of which are depicted
the objects that used to be preserved here. The colouring of the admirably
executed reliefs is remarkably fresh. On the right wall of the second
room to the right is an interesting relief of King Phiops (6th Dyn.) kneel
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of Haihor. DENDERA. 29. Route. 249
ing and offering a statuette of the god EUi to foar images of Hathor. —
On tbe walls of Crypt No. 7 (entered through an opening in the pavement
of the small sacriflcial court) Ptolemy XIII. appears presenting gifts (chiefly
ornameuts) to various gods. — Crypts Nos. 1 A 2, arranged above each
other in two stories, are interesting also; they are most conveniently ac-
cessible from Room VII.
We return to the first antechamber (p. 247) and ascend one
of the Staircases which lead thence to the roof of the temple.
The East Staircase, which ascends straight to the roof with easy
steps, is dark. The West Staircase is a kind of spiral staircase,
with ten rectangular bends, lighted by several windows, with
tasteful symbolical representations of the snn shining through
them. The walls of both staircases are embellished with reliefs of
the ceremonial procession of the priests with the images of Hathor
and her fellow-gods at the great new year's festival. The left wall
presents ns with a view of the procession ascending from the lower
rooms of the temple to the roof, in order that 'the goddess Hathor
might be united with the beams of her father Re' (the sun-god); the
right wall shows the procession descending. The priests are headed
by the king; some of them wear masks representing the lesser deities.
— The W. staircase passes a small room (situated above the store-
room adjoining the second antechamber) with three windows look-
ing into the court. Higher up is a small court with two rooms
opening off it, corresponding to the chambers on the E. side of the
terrace (see below) and likewise dedicated to the cult of Osiris.
The reliefs in the second room represent the resuscitation of Osiris.
We now reach the Temple Roof, which has various levels, the
highest being above the great vestibule or pronaos (p. 246). At
the S.W. angle of the lower terrace, which we reach first, stands a
small open Pavilion, supported by 12 sistrum-columns with head.<
of Hathor. Adjoining the terrace on the N. is a small Shrine of Osiris,
situated above the chambers to the left of the hypostyle hall and used
in the worship of the slain and risen Osiris, as curious representations
and numerous inscriptions indicate. The second room is separated
from the first (an open court) by pillars, and formerly contained the
famous Zodiac of Dendera (now in the Bibliotheque Nationale at
Paris), the only circular representation ofthe heavens found iuEgypt.
The remaining portion of the ceiling still shows two figures of the
goddess of heaven. The window in the last room, with represent-
ations of Osiris resting upon a bier, deserves attention. — A flight
of steps ascends from the N.W. end of the terrace to the roof of the
first antechamber and thence to the still higher roof of the hypostyle
hall. Thence a modern iron staircase leads to the roof of the
pronaos, which commands a beautiful view of the valley of the Nile
and the hills of the desert.
Finally a walk round the outside of the temple will be found
interesting. The exterior walls are covered with inscriptions and
representations. The reliefs on the E. and W. walls date from the
16*
250 Route 19. DENDERA.
reign of Nero and otlier Roman emperors. The large scenes on the S.
rear wall show Ptolemy XVI. Csesar, sou of Julius Caesar, and his
mother, Cleopatra, in presence of the gods of Dendera. In the
centre is the image of the goddess Hathor. The faces are purely
conventional and in no sense portraits. The projecting lions' heads
on the sides of the building were intended to carry off the rain-water.
To the right (N.W.) of the entrance to the temple of Hathor lies
the so-called Birth House, a small temple not yet quite freed from
de'bris. Similar 'birth houses' were erected beside all large temples
of the Ptolemaic period. They were dedicated to the worship of the
sons of the two deities revered in the main temple, in the present
case to Har-sem-tewe (p. 245). This 'birth house' was built by
Augustus and some of its reliefs were added by Trajan and Hadrian.
On the N. and S. sides is a colonnade with flower-columns, the
abaci of which are adorned with figures of Bes, the patron deity of
women in labour.
Interioe. We first enter a vestibule, from which open on the right
a chamber with a flight of steps and a door to the colonnade, and on the
left two other apartments. A door in the middle admits to a wide space, out
of which open three other doors. Those at the sides lead to corridors,
while that in the centre opens into the birth-chamber proper, the mural
reliefs in which represent the birth and nursing of the diviue infant.
Buried in rubbish immediately to the S. of the Birth House is
a large Coptic Church.
Behind the temple of Hathor (to the S.W.) is a Temple of Isis,
consisting of a vestibule and three chambers. The unattractive and
uninteresting building owes its origin to the Emperor Augustus.
Beyond Keneh (p. 244) the steamer passes three islands. On the
W. bank lies the village of Ballas^ with clay-deposits from which
most of the 'Keneh pottery' is made (see p. 223). Balalis (pi. of
ballas, named after the village), kulal (pi. of kulla), and other kind -
of jars, some of considerable size, lie on the banks awaiting ship-
ment. This village is situated in the district known to the Gi ;eks
as Typhonia ('dedicated to Typhon', i.e. Seth).
121/2 M. BarM [El-Baroud; E. bank). — To the E., I1/2 M.
inland, lies Kuft (p. 223). On the W. bank is the village of Tukh
(p. 224). The village of El-Helleh (E. bank) is the steamboat station
forKus (p. 223). Opposite lies NaMdeh, another steamboat station
(p. 224). The Nile describes a curve to the W. and forms the island
of Mefir. On the "W. bank is Ed-Denftk (Danfiq). — At Shenhur,
which lies a little inland from the E. bank, about 3 M. to the S.
of Kus, are the ruins of a small temple of Isis, discovered byPris-^e
d'Avennes. To the E. of Shenhur runs the Shenhur Canal, whic i
begins a little above Thebes and extends on the N. to Keneh.
Khizdm (E. bank; rail, station, p. 224). — 32 M. fW. bank)
Kamiila, formerly vdth plantations of sugar-cane, was, during the
^^f^^n^^nme'pl^Wa^ne^^Debe^Te^S^
LUXOli. i>0. Route. 251
rebellion of Sheikh Alimed in 1824. the res^idence of 'Ali Kashit
Abu-Tarbugh, who defended it against the insurgents.
On the left bank, as we draw near Thebes, rise high limestone
hills, presenting precipitous sides to the river, from which, however,
they are separated by a strip of fertile land. The right bank is flatter,
and the Arabian hills retreat farther into the distance. Before
reaching the point where the W. chain projects a long curved mass
of rock towards the river, we see to the left first the great obelisk,
then the pylons of the temple of Karnak, half-concealed by palm
trees. When we clear the abrupt profile of the W. cliffs and new
formations are visible at its foot, we may catch a distant view of
Luxor towards the S.E. None of the buildings on the W. bank are
visible until the steamer has ascended as high as Karnak; then first the
Colosi?i of Memnon and afterwards the Ramesseum and the Temple
of Deir el-Babri come into view. As we gradually approach Luxor,
we distinguish the flags flying above the consular dwellings. The
Winter Palace Hotel and the castellated villa of a Dutch resident
are conspicuous in the background.
39 M. Liixor (see below), on the K. bank, where the steamer
halts close to the colonnades of the temple (comp. PI. A, 3, 4).
The traveller is advised not to leave the landing-place until he has
assured himself that his luggage is being taken to the right hotel.
20. Luxor and its Environs : the Site of Ancient
Thebes.
Arrival. By Sleanur, see above; by Railway, see p. 224. — The Railieuy
Station (PI. D, 5) lies to the S.E. of the town. Cabs and hotel-carriages
(5 pias.) meet the trains.
Hotels. 'WiNTEE Palace Hotel (PI. A, 5), on the quay, to the S. of
the landing-places, with lift, terrace, large garden, and beautiful view to-
wards the Nile, closed in summer, pens, from 80 pias. ; 'Xuxor Hotel (PI.
B, 4), with a large garden, pens, from 70 pias., open all the year round;
Kaknak Hotel (PI. B, 2), with garden, pens, from 60 pias. ; these three
hotels are owned by the Upper Egvpt Hotel Co. *Savot Hotel (PI. B, C,
1, 2), with a pretty garden on the KUe, open Nov. -April, pens. 60-70 pias.;
*H6tel on Nil, on the Nile, to the S.W. of the Winter Palace Hotel (comp.
the Map on p. 254), with garden, pens, from GO pias., open yov.-May;
6hand-H6tel Tewfikieh (PI. C, 1), with large garden, pens. 60-100 pias.,
open Nov. -June. — Plainer: H6tel de Famille (PI. C, 1, 2), on the road
to Karnak, with garden, pens. 40-50 pias.. Hotel de la Oaee et Pension
Suisse (PI. D, 5), opposite the station, pens. 35-40, in summer 30 pias.,
both clean. — Beek on draught at Rohrmosers, on the Nile (PI. A, 3).
Post Office (PI. B, 4), Shari' el-Mahatta. —Telegraph Offices, near the
Luxor Hotel (PI. B, 4) and at the station. — Agency of the National Bank
of Egypt, on the quay (PI. A, 4).
Steamboat Agencies. Thos. Cook & Son (PI. A, 4), Hamburg & Anglo-
American Nile Co., both near the Winter Palace Hotel.
Consular Agents. French, German, Austria-Hungarian, Italian, Belgian,
and flussian (comp. the Plan).
252 Route W. LDXOR. Practical Notes.
Physicians. Dr. W. E. N. Dunn, at the Winter Palace Hotel; Dr. Worth-
ington, at the Laxor Hotel; Dr. H. Laufer (German), on the quay to the
N. of the Winter Palace Hotel. The hospital (PI. B, C, 5), which' i8 sup-
ported by the voluntary contributions of travellers, is in charge of Egyp-
tian physicians (chief medical adviser. Dr. Dunn).
Chemists. English Chemist, at the Winter Palace Hotel ; Rizgallah, in
the town.
Churches. Anglican Church, in the garden of the Luxor Hotel; Ameri-
can Church (PI. D, 1), on the road to Kamak. Roman Catholic Church
(PI. C, 2); in the Zabtiyeh Square. The hours of the services are posted
up at the hotels.
Guides. A guide is of assistance in saving time but is not indispen-
sable, as the donkey-boys and temple-guardians can supply the necessary
information. The charge is 20 pias. for half-a-day, 30 pias. for a whole day
on' the E. bank, and 35 pias. for a whole day on the W. bank ; more for a
large party. The following guides may be recommended, all of whom
speak English: Mohammed 'AbOdi, Oirgis Mikha'il, Ahmed 'Abdalldh, Abul-
I'cisan 'Aiijad, BUhis Ohattds, Mdlik ilankariOs. iSa'id TaniOs, Solimdn Muhauwi^,
Ahmed Kuraim, Mohammed 'Abdalldh, Amin Ahmed, IbrdMm 'Ai\/dd, Udmid
'Abd et-Tauwdb, YHsuf Mohammed, 'Abdalldh Ahmed ,Solimdn, Ilusein Moham-
med, Shamandi Ahmed, and Abduh Mohammed.
The Donkeys (comp. p. xviii) are good and have good saddles (English
saddles at the hotels). To Karnak and back 7 pias. (bakshish included);
to Medinet Habn and back 15 pias. ; to the Valley of the Kings and back
01- for a whole day 15 pias., side-saddle 5 pias. extra.
Carriages. From the station to the town, see p. 251; to Karnak and
back (incl. 1 hr.'s waiting) 30-40 pias. As to the charges for drives on
the W. bank and for 'chaises k porteurs' travellers should enquire at the
hotels.
Steamboats of the Compagnie des Bateavx-Omnibtit ply once daily to
Esneh (p. 342) in S^/^ hrs., returning in 3V2 (fare 4, 1st cl. 12 pias.; comp.
p. 253). — Boat across the river to the W. bank 5 pias. (tickets at the
hotels); for a trip on the Nile, 1 hr. 15, 2 hrs. 25 pias. , etc., 3-4 pers. 20
and 35 pias.
Bookseller, N, Zachoi, at the Winter Palace Hotel. — Photographs.
Zachos, see above (also photographic materials); Oaetano Piromali, Pohoo-
mull Brothers, both on the quay.
Gymkhanas are frequently arranged; during the season races of don-
keys, etc. take place every week.
Antiquities. Luxor is noted for its spurious antiquities. Many of the
articles oifered for sale in the streets are so skilfully imitated that even
experts are sometimes in doubt as to their genuineness; the ordinary
traveller seldom or never secures an authentic specimen, a fact which is
very amusingly illustrated in T. O. Wakeling^s 'Forged Egyptian Antiquities'
(London, 1912; illus. ; 5«.). Travellers should never buy antiquities without
the advice of a connoisseur. Purchases should not be made in presence
of the dragomans, as these individuals, by tacit agreement, receive a
percentage from the dealers, which is. of course, added to the price.
Specimens may be obtained from Mohareb Todrtu, the German consular
agent, or from the dealers Mohammed Muhasseb , 'Abd el-Megld, Mansilr
Mahmhd, R. de Rustafjaell, etc. Prices vary greatly; \l., or even more,
must be paid for a good scarabseus with fine colour.
Distribution of Time. Travellers by the tourist-steamers are more or
less committed to the prescribed programme (comp. p. 203). Those who
are at liberty to arrange their time for themselves will find the following
programmes convenient. (For day-excursions the hotels provide their
guests with lunch-baskets; travellers staying at the Winter Palace, Luxor,
and Karnak Hotels can obtain a coupon for 5 pias. entitling them to
lunch at Cook's Rest House, p. 299.)
Situation. LUXOR. 20. Route. 253
Thrbb Dats' Visit. 1st Day. Start early and ride to Karnak (p. 262).
The traveller who visits the Qreat Temple of Amon, the most gigantic of
the monnments, on the first day proceeds then to view the other lions with
the satisfactory feeling that Thebes has fulfilled his highest expectations ;
and he will not fail to take a later opportunity to return to refresh and
confirm his first impression. A visit by moonlight is exceedingly attrac-
tive. In the afternoon visit the temple of Luxor (p. 257), reached in a
few minutes from the hotels. — 2nd Day. Cross the river early, visit the
Temple of Sethos I. (p. 282), ride to the Tombs of the Kings at Btbdn
el-Mul(tk (p. 284), then cross the ridge to visit the terrace-temple of Deir
el-Bahri (p. 299 ; an excursion of 7 hrs.). — 3rd Day. Cross the river
early, visit the Colossi of ilemnon (p. 330), Medinet Habu (p. 322), the
Tombs of the Qtieens (p. 319), and Deir el-Medineh (p. 316). On the way back
(after lunch) visit the Bamesse.um (p. 306), and finally some of the tombs
of Sheikh 'Abd el-Kurna (p. 309; another 7 hrs.' day).
On a T.ONGER Stat the traveller will wish to revisit several points,
especially the temple of Amon at Karnak, and will be glad to devote
more time to the monuments on the W. bank, particularly the interesting
tombs of Knrna. MedamiU (p. 281) also may be visited, or a half-day trip
by the railway (IV2 day by the steamboat mentioned at p. 252) may bo,
taken to the barrage and temple of Esneh (p. 342) and the temple of Edfu
(p. 343). Keneh and the temple of i)eHdcjYf as well a,s Abydos also may each
be visited in one day from Luxor by the railway. To Koseir, see p. 373.
Kap. The best map of this district is Prof. Schweinfurth'' s Map of the
Western Environs of Luxor and Karnak (1:25,000; Berlin, 1909; bs.).
On each side of the Nile stretches a wide belt of fertile land,
bounded both on the E. and W. by ranges of hills, overtopped by
finely shaped peaks, especially on the E., where the ridge retires
farther from the stream than on the W. The verdant crops and
palms which everywhere cheer the traveller as soon as he has quitted
the desert, the splendid hues that tinge the valley every morning
and evening, the brilliant, unclouded snnshine that bathes every
object even in the winter-season, lend to the site of ancient Thebes
the appearance of a wonderland, richly endowed with the gifts of
never-failing fertility. Most of the ruined temples are situated in
the level district and are reached by the waters of the Nile when
the inundations are at their highest; while the tombs are hewn in
the flanks of the hills, where their dark openings are so numerous,
that the E. slope of the Libyan range might be aptly compared to
a piece of cork or to a honeycomb.
On the right (E.") bank lies Luxor (Luqsor). now a town of
13,908 inhab. (incl. 4598 Copts), the chief tourist-centre in Upper
Egypt. The name is derived from the Arabic El-KusUr (pi. of EL-
Ka^r) and means 'the castles', having reference to the extensive
temple within which part of the place once lay. Near the temple
traces of antique embankments on tlie river (PI. A, 4) and of a
iiiloraeter may still be seen. The most frequented part of the town
is the new Quay extending along the bank of the Nile in a S.
direction from the temple; here are the Winter Palace Hotel, the
Hotel du Nil, and many shops. On the E. the ShSri' el-Mahatta,
with the post-office, runs straight to the railway station (p. 251).
To the N. of the town lies the Zabtiyeh Square (PI. C, 2), an open
space adorned with gardens, which contains the Police Station (Zab-
254 Route 20. THEBES. History.
tiyeh), a Mosque (PI. 13), the Roman Catholic Church, and the Savoy
and Grand Hotels.
To the N. of Luxor extend the immense ruins of Kamak (p. 262),
connected with it formerly by the lanes of the city, now by a broad
street planted with trees (PI. C, D, 2, 1). Evenunder the Pharaohs
the Temple of Amon, the chief god of Thebes, was considered the
most striking creation of an age peculiarly famous for architectural
achievements. To this day few other buildings in the world can
match its dimensions. Farther to the N. is another extensive temple-
site at Medamut (p. 281), which must be regarded as occupying the
site of a suburb of Thebes.
On the left (W.) bank (p. 281) was the Necropolis, with vaults in
the rock and tombs on the desert-soil, adjoined by many temples
and dwelling-houses. Even in antiquity the Tombs of the Kings
(p. 284) were reckoned among the chief sights of ancient Thebes.
The HisTOKY of Thebes under the Ancient Empire is veiled in
uncertainty. The Egyptian name for the town was Weset, or more
shortly Neivt, 'the city', whence the Scriptural name No or No-Amon
( 'city', 'city of Amon'). The W. bank was known as 'the West of
Weset' or 'the West of the city'. No satisfactory explanation has
been offered of why the Greeks called it Thebes (O-^pai), a name
they frequently bestowed upon their own cities. Among the Greeks
the town was known also as AtoaTioXi?, 'city of Zeus' (Amon),
also called Diospolis he megale or Diospolis Magna to distinguish it
from Diospolis Parva or Hou (p. 244). Weset was the capital of a
nome, and it was ruled by princes of its own, whose tombs (6th Dyn.)
were discovered at Drah Abu'l Negga (p. 283). The local deity was
the falcon-headed Mont, a god of war, who was worshipped also in
the neighbouring town of Hermonthis. Several other places lay near
Weset on the E. bank} among these were Epet-Esowet (the modern
Kamak) and South Apet (Luxor), which were afterwards incorporated
with the great 'city' and subjected to the same governors.
When Theban princes assumed the royal dignity during the
Middle Empire Thebes rose to a more commanding position. The
city was adorned with temples, amongst which the large shrines
raised in Epet-Esowet and South Apet to the god Amon were con-
spicuous. But the greatness of Thebes dates only from the begin-
ning of the New Empire. The liberation of the country from the
Hyksos and the reunion of the empire was directed from Thebes,
and that city continued for centuries to be the favourite seat of the
Pharaohs, and the reservoir into which flowed the untold treasures
exacted as tribute or brought as booty from conquered nations. A
large share of this wealth was bestowed upon Amon. The mag-
nificent and gigantic temples erected at this period to the god are
still among the chief sights of Thebes. The grandees of the kingdom
esteemed it an honour to become priests of Amon, the schools be-
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History. THEBES. W. Route. 255
side his temples flourished, and the Icings offered their richest gifts
to this god. The fame of the huge city early reached the ears
even of the Greeks. In a possibly interpolated passage of the Iliad
(ix. 379-384), Achilles, enraged with Agamemnon, assures Ulysses
that he will never more unite in council or in deed with the great
Atrides : —
"Ten times as much, and twenty times were vain; the high pil'd store
Of rich Myccna', and if he ransack wide earth for more,
Search old Orchomenus for gold, and by the fertile stream
Where, in Egyptian Thebes, the heaps of precious ingots gleam.
The hundred-gated Thebes, where twice ten score in martial state
Of valiant men with steeds and cars march through each massy gate."
(Blackit^s Translation.)
The epithet £-/oiT6[j.:r'jXoc, i.e. 'hundred-gated', here used by
Homer, was applied also by later classical authors to Thebes. Diodorus,
Strabo, Pliny, and Stephanus of Byzantium all make use of it, refer-
ring to the gates of the tOAvn as symbols of its size and power. The
persecution of the god Anion by Auienophis IV. (^p. cii) and the
temporary transference of the royal residence to Tell el-'Amarna
(p. 211) affected Thebes but slightly. Its ruined temples were re-
built under Haremheb, Sethos I., and Ramses II., and the wealth of
the god became greater than ever. An idea of the endowments of
the temple of Anion may be gleaned from the fact that under
Kamses IH. more than 2/3 of the landed property possessed by the
temples of Egypt belonged to it, and that ^|^ of the gifts lavished by
Ramses III. upon the gods of Egypt fell to the share of Amon, so
that, for example, of 113,433 slaves, no fewer than 86,486 were
presented to the Theban deity. Under these circumstances it was
natural that the arch -priests of Amon should gradually grow to
regard themselves as the chief persons in the state ; and they finally
succeeded in usurping the throne and in uniting for a time the
royal title with the priestly office. But the sun of Thebes began
to set when the royal residence was transferred to the Delta under
the princes of the 21st Dynasty. For a long time, however, Thebes,
with a large part of Upper Egypt, formed a distinct political entity,
governed by the high-priests of Amon and more or less indepen-
dent of the kings residing in the N. In the 7th cent. B.C. the armies
of the Assyrians penetrated as far as Thebes and plundered it ;
the Ethiopians planted their rule here and honoured Amon with
buildings and inscriptions; the princes of the 26th Dyn. did for
Sais what the princes of the 18th and 19th Dyn. had done for the
city of Amon. The invading army of Cambyses ascended as far
as Upper Egypt, but seems to have done little or no damage at
Thebes. Nektanebes, one of the native Egyptian princes who main-
tained themselves against the Persians, added a gate to the temple
of Mont. Alexander the Great and the princes of the house of the
Lagidae probably found Thebes still a great though decadent city,
and they assisted to embellish it, as many buildings dating from
256 Route 20. THEBES. History.
the period of the Ptolemies still attest. The town of Ptolema'is
(p. 221), founded and endowed with many privileges by Ptolemy I.,
soon became the capital of Upper Egypt, and rapidly proved a
dangerous rival to the ancient metropolis. For a brief interval
Thebes, though politically and economically weakened, recovered
its independence under native princes, by putting itself at the head
of the revolt in Upper Egypt under Epiphanes against the Mace-
donian domination. But the rebellion was speedily crushed and
Thebes once more reduced to the rank of a provincial town. Its
decline steadily continued and the great city gradually became a
mere congeries of village;^. Under Ptolemy X. Soter II. it again re-
belled, but after a siege of three years was captured and destroyed.
In spite of its evil fate it once more revolted, taking part in tlie
Upper Egyptian insurrection in 30-29 B.C. against the oppressive
taxation of the Romans. Cornelius Gallus, the prefect (p. ex), over-
threw the rebels and utterly destroyed the town. Strabo, who visited
Egypt in '24 B.C., found only scattered villages on the site of the
ancient city. Thenceforward Thebes is mentioned only as a goal of
inquisitive travellers, who under the Roman emperors were attracted
to the Nile by two monuments in particular — the pyramids and
the musical colossus of Memnon on the W. bank at Thebes.
The introduction of Christianity and the edicts of Theodosius
were followed by the destruction of many pagan statues and the
obliteration of many pagan inscriptions. The Nile, which annually
overflowed as far as the temple of Karnak, and the saline exudations
of the soil wrought harm ; many tombs were converted into peasants'
dwellings; Christian churches and convents were erected in the
temple-halls, and houses were built between the columns of the
temple at Luxor. Carefully hewn blocks and slabs were removed
from the monuments, which were used as quarries, and many lime-
stone details were thrown into the furnace and reduced to lime.
THEBES (E. BANK). 20. Route. 257
A. THE EAST BANK AT THEBES.
1. The Temple of Luxor.
The main eutrauce to the (emple hy the great pylou (p. 258j is now
closed. We therefore leave the pylon to the last and proceed from the
road on the bank of the river to the court of Amonophis III. (p. 260),
whence we visit the older parts of the sanctuary (I>-X; pp. 260, 261). Wc
tlien return to the court and proceed through the colonnade (p. 259) to
the court of Eamses II. {p. 2.59). Admission-tickets (p. 200) must not be
forgotten. In the follovi^intr description, however, the pylon is mentioned
lirst.
To the S. of the town and close to the hank of the Nile rises
the imposing —
•'Temple of Luxor (PI. A, B, 3, 4), which still contains the little
mosque of Ahu"l Haggag within its N. part. The temple was built
liy Amenophis III. (18th Dyn.; p. cii) on the site of an older
sanctuary of sandstone, and was dedicated to Amon, his wife or
daughter Mat, and their son, the moon -god Khons. Like all
Egyptian temples, it included the sanctuaries with their adjoin-
ing rooms, a large hypostyle hall, and an open peristyle court. The
last was to have been preceded by a large hypostyle hall with sev-
eral aisles, but only the central rows of columns had been erected
at the death of the king. The temple was then 208 yds. in length,
while its greatest breadth was (JO yds. Opposite the temple was a
granite (-hapel, erected by Thutmosis 111. During the religions revo-
lution under Amenophis IV. (comp. p. 255) the representations and
name of Amon were obliterated, and a sanctuary of the 'Sun' was
built beside the temple. Tut-enkh-Amun (p. cii) transferred the
royal residence back to Thebes, and caused the unfinished great
hypostyle hall to be hastily completed and the walls to be decorated
with reliefs (p. 260), in which Haremheb afterwards substituted
his own name for that of his predecessor. The 'Temple of the Sun'
was destroyed, and in the reign of Sethos the figures of Amon
were restored. Ramses II., the greatest builder among the Pharaohs,
could not refrain from adding to the temple at Luxor, He added a
large colonnaded court in front of the completed temple; he 'usurped'
the ancient chapel of Thutmosis 111. and replaced the old reliefs
with new ones; and he erected a massive pylon, the entrance of
which was formed next the chapel of Tluitmosis, so that the longer
axis of the main temple was altered. The total length of the temple
was now 284 yds. Later centuries brought few alterations to the
temple of Luxor. After the introduction of Christianity it was con-
verted into a church. A modern wall on the side Tiext the river
protects it against damage from inundation.
258 Route 'JO.
THEBES (E. BANK).
1. Temple
In front of the principal Pylon
(PI. P-F) of the temple were six
Colossal Statites of Ramses II. , two
sitting and four standing, of which
only the two sitting and the western-
most of the others are now in position.
The sitting figures are about 45 ft.
in height; that on the E. is buried
breast-high in rubbish. In front
of these seated figures rose two
Obelisks of pink granite, erected
on the occasion of a jubilee of Ram-
ses II., one of which (the W.) has
adorned the Place de la Concorde at
Paris since 1836. The inscriptions
name Ramses the Pliaraoh , with
many pretentious titles, as the found-
er of this gorgeous building erected
in honour of Amon in S. Apet.
The exterior walls of the pylons
are adorned with Reliefs en creux
referring to the campaign against
the Hittites, which Ramses II. car-
ried on in Syria in the 5th year of
his reign. They have suffered se-
verely from the hand of time and at
several places are almost oblitera-
ted. On the Right (W.) Tower, to
the left, the king on his throne
holds a council of war with his
princes; in the middle is the camp,
fortified by the shields of the sol-
diers arranged side by side and
attacked by the Hittites; to the
right, the king in his chariot dashes
into the fray. — The scenes on the
Left (E.) Tower plunge us into
the battle; the king in his chariot
dashes against his foes who have
surrounded him , and launches his
arrows against them. The field is
strewn with the dead and wounded,
while the Hittites flee in wild con-
fusion to the fortress of Kadesh,
whence fresh troops issue. Farther
to the left Kadesh, girt with water,
appears, with the defenders on the
of Luxor. THEBES (E. BANK"). ?0. Eoute. 259
battlements. Remote from the battlefield, to the extreme left, the
prince of the Hittites stands in his chariot, surrounded by his
guards, and 'fears before his majesty'. — Below the reliefs on the
W. tower is a long poetical description of the battle of Kadesh,
inscribed in vertical lines. It is continued on the E. tower, where,
however, the text is still partly concealed by rubbish.
Oa the front of each tower of the pylon are two large vertical
grooves for the reception of flag-staffs, and above these are large
square apertures to receive the braces securing the flag-staffs and
loopholes to admit light and air to the interior. The portal between
the towers is buried in rubbish and in a very ruinous condition.
The reliefs represent Ramses II. in presence of the chief deities of
the temple. The carvings in the doorway, in somewhat high relief,
date from the reign of the Ethiopian king Shabako.
Beyond the principal pylon (though not accessible from this
side, comp. p. 257) lies the great Court of Ramses II, (PI. A),
which was entirely surrounded by a double row of papyrus-columns
(74 in all), with bud-capitals and smooth shafts. It meastires
187 ft. in length and 167 ft. in breadth, but, owing to the presence
of a mosque (p. 257), only the W. and S. sides have been laid bare.
On a platform in the N.W. corner lies an ancient Chapel (PI. TA),
built by Thutmosis III. and restored by Ramses II. It contains
three chambers, of which that in the centre was dedicated to Amon,
that on the W. to Mut, and that on the E. to Khons, each con-
taining the sacred bark of the god. On the side facing the court
it had a small colonnade of four clustered papyrus-columns in red
granite.
The Walls of the court arc covered with reliefs and inscriptions,
including sacrificial scenes, hymns to the gods, representations of
conquered nations, etc., most of which date from the reign of Ram-
ses II. The relief on the S.W. wall (PI. Y) shows the facade of
the temple of Luxor, with the pylons and flag-staffs, the colossal
statues, and the obelisks, while from the right approaches a pro-
cession, headed by the princes and followed by garlanded animals
for sacrifice. (The scene is continued on the W. wall.)
The S. half of the court is further embellished with standing
Colossi of Ramses II., placed between the columns in the first row.
These, with the exception of one in black granite, are wrought in
red granite and average 23 ft. in height. The finest (PI. a) is 17'/.> ft.
high ; the crown, carved from a separate block, has fallen off; on
the pedestal and apron is the name of Ramses II. On each side
of the S. doorway is another colossal figure of the king in black
granite, seated with the queen by his side.
On the S.side this court is adjoined by a Colonnade (PI. B), which
was originally intended as the beginning of an immense hypostyle
hall (comp. p. 257). The colonnade is in fairly good preservation
260 Route 20. THEBES fE. BANK). /. TempU
and contributes essentially to the digiiifled appearance of the ruins
of Luxor when viewed from the river. Seven couples of papyrus-
columns, about 52 ft. in height, with calyx-capitals, still support
a heavy architrave above a lofty abacus. The whole was built by
Amenophis III., but Tut-enkh-Amun (p. 257), Haremheb, Sethosl.,
Ramses II., and Sethos II. have likewise recorded their names upon
it. The walls on each side of the colonnade were embellished by
Tut-enkh-Amun (whose name was later replaced by that of his
successor, Haremheb) with fine reliefs, representing the great festival
celebrated at Luxor on New Year's Day, On that day the sacred
boats of the gods were brought by the Nile from Karnak to Luxor,
borne into the temple at Luxor, and returned to Karnak in the
evening. The procession is here depicted in a realistic manner
in all its interesting details , though unfortunately a large part of
the reliefs has perished with the ruined upper part of the walls.
The series begins at the N.W. corner of the colonnade and ends at
the N.E. corner.
The (second) Court of Amenophis III. (PI. C), which visitors
actually enter first, is 49 yds. deep and 56 yds. broad, and had
double rows of columns on three sides. The columns are clustered
papyrus-columns with bud-capitals ; the E. and W. rows, with the
architrave, are in excellent preservation. — The remaining (S.)
side of this court is adjoined by the —
Pronaos or Vestibule of the temple proper (PI. D), the roof of
which wa s borne by 32 clustered papyrus-columns arranged in 4 rows
of 8. The reliefs on the E. wall show Amenophis III. before the
gods of Thebes ; at the foot of the wall are personifications of the
Egyptian nomes, bearing gifts. To the left stands an Altar, dedi-
cated to the Emperor Constantino, with a Latin inscription. Ad-
joining the rear wall are two small Chapels (PI. L and M) and a
staircase (PI. N), now destroyed. One chapel (L) was dedicated
to the goddess Mut, the other (M) to the moon-god Khons. — A
door in the centre of the rear wall admits to a smaller hall, which
originally had eight columns and was converted into a Church
(PI. E) in the Christian period. The ancient entrance to the sanc-
tuary-chambers has here been altered into a kind of apsidal recess,
bounded on the right and left by two granite Corinthian columns.
At a few points the Christian whitewash has peeled off, permitting
the 'heathen' reliefs of Amenophis III. to become visible again.
Adjoining the church are several small rooms (PI. I on the W.,
PI. H and K on the E.).
We return to the Vestibule and quit the temple by a door on
the E. side, then turn to the right and re-enter it almost immediately
(three doors) to inspect the Birth Koom (PI. R), the roof of which
rested upon three clustered columns. The room owes its name to the
Reliefs on the W. wall, referring to the divine birth of Amenophis III.
The reliefs on the S. wall refer to his accession to the throne.
of Luxor. THEBES ( E. BANK ). 20. fiowfe. 261
West Wall. Lowest Row (from left to right) : 1. The god Ehnum moulds
two infants (Amenophis III. and his guardian-spirit) upon the potter's
wheel; opposite is seated Isis. 2. Ehnum and Amon. 3. Amon and Met-
em-weye, mother of Amenophis III., seated upon the hieroglyphic symbol
for 'heaven', and supported by the goddesses Selket and Neith. 4. Amon
conversing with Thout. 5. The king and Amon (much defaced). 6. Isis
(defaced) embracint; Queen Blet-em-weye ; to the right stands Amon. — Middle
Row: 1. Thout foretells to Met-em-wcye the birth of her son. 2. The preg-
nant Met-em-weye conducted by Isis and Khnum. 3. Conlinement of Met-
em-weye; beside and beneath the coucli are Bet, Toeris, and other genii.
4. Isis (defaced) presents the new-born prince to Anion. 5. Amon with the
child in his arms; beside him are Hathor and Mut. — Top Row: 1. To
the left is the queen, with the goddess Selket seated behind her; to the
right two goddesses suckle the infant prince and his guardian-spirit; below,
the prince and bis guardian-spirit suckled by two cows. 2. Nine deities
holding the prince. 3. The god Hekew (painted blue) carrying the prince
and his guardian -spirit; behind is the Kile-god. 4. Ilorus hands the
prince and his guardian-spirit to Amon. 5. Khnum and Anubis. 6. The
prince and his guardian-spirit seated and standing before Amon. 7 (in
the corner), Amenophis as king.
From the Birth Koom we enter Room Q, the roof of which is
supported by three columns, and thence, after glancing at the much
damaged reliefs, we pass through an arched doorway, of later in-
sertion, into the so-called —
Sanctuary of Alexander the Great (PI. G). This chamber was
practically rebuilt in the reign of Alexander. The original four
supporting columns in the centre were replaced by a chapel (open
both front and rear), in which the sacred boat of Amon was pre-
served. The reliefs covering both the interior and exterior walls of
the chapel represent Alexander before Amon and his fellow-gods ;
those on the walls of the chamber still show Amenophis III. before
tlie Theban deities. — A gap in the wall on the N. side of the sanc-
tuary admits us to a small square Hall (PI. F), with four clustered
papyrus-columns. The wall-reliefs, which are in four rows, shovsr
Amenophis III. before Amon and other Theban deities. The ori-
ginal door hence to the sanctuary has been built up.
The Rearmost Rooms of the temjile are of comparatively little in-
terest. From the Sanctuary of Alexander we pass through Room S (with
12 columns) into the Sancluary (PI. X), the ceiling of which was borne by
four clustered papyrus-columns. A relief to the left of the entrance shows
Atum and Horus conducting the king into the sanctuary. The other reliefs
represent the king in presence of Amon. — The small Room F, which was
probably a store-room for sacrificial gifts , is now accessible only from
without the temple.
We now proceed to inspect the Pylon (p. 258). On the way thither
the traveller should not omit to cast a glance on the exterior W. -.^alls
of the Court and Colonnade of Amenophis III. and the Court of Ramses II.
(PI. fc, c, d). These walls were embellished by Ramses II. with reliefs
of scenes from his Asiatic campaigns.
A paved street, flanked on both sides mth figures of recumbent
rams, each with a small image of Amenophis 111. in front of it, led
to the N. from this temple to the temples of Karnak. The avenue of
sphinxes beside the temple of Khons at Karnak (p. 262) is a rem-
nant of (his street.
262 Route 20. THEBES [E. BANK). 2. Kamak:
2. Earnak.
Guides, Carriages, and DonkeySy see p. 252. — Hurried travellers shonld
see the Temple of Khons and the main portions of the great Temple of
Amon. Carriages and riding-animals, which the visitor quits at the 1st pylon
(p. 266), shonld be ordered to meet him at the 7th or, if the Temple of
iVIut is also to be visited, at the 10th pylon. The view from the first pylon
of the Temple of Amon (p. 266) and the survey of the great Hypostyle
Hall (p. 268) are wonderfully effective by moonlight.
The main street of Luxor is prolonged to the N. of the Zabtiyeh
Square (p. 253) by a good road (comp. PI. D, 1), which we follow,
passing (right) the Summary Tribunal and the church and school of
the American Mission. Beyond a small bridge we skirt the Roman
Catholic cemetery (left). The road to the right, passing the sacred
lake of the Temple of Mut (p. 281) and crossing the railway, leads
to Medamut (p. 281), while that to the left runs direct to the village
of Kamak with the great Temple of Amon and the house of the
director of the excavations at Karnak. The main road, straight
ahead, brings us to the Temple of Khons. On the way we pass the
pedestals of numerous recumbent rams (p. 261), while others flank
also the old road to the Temple of Mut that diverges here.
a. Temple of Khons and Surrounding Buildings.
A handsome Portal, erected by Euergetes I., with a winged sun-disk
in the concave cornice, forms the S.W. entrance to the temple-
precincts of Karnak, which were enclosed by a brick wall. The
reliefs represent Euergetes praying and sacrificing to the Theban
deities. Beyond this portal another avenue of sphinxes, erected by
Ramses XII., the last of the Ramessides, brings us to the beautiful —
Temple of Ehoas. This temple was dedicated to the Theban
moon-god Khons , son of Amon and Mut, and, like Ramses III.'s
temple to Amon (p. 267), may be regarded as a characteristic
example of an Egyptian sanctuary under the New Empire. Ram-
ses III. reared the walls of this temple, but placed reliefs only in the
innermost chambers; the completion of the decoration was left for
Ills successors Ramses IV., Ramses XII., and the priest-king Herihor,
the last of whom built also the court (PI. A).
The entrance is formed by a large Pylon (PI. P-P^, 105 ft. In
length, 33 ft. in breadth, and 59 ft. in height. Upon the front may
be seen the four vertical grooves, with the corresponding apertures
in the masonry, used in fastening the flag-staffs. The reliefs on
the towers of the pylon show the high-priest Pinotem I. (21st Dyn.)
and his wife Hent-tewe sacrificing to various Theban deities. In
front of each tower lay a porch, borne by columns and surmounted
by a wooden ceiling. The bases of the columns are still in situ. — The
central portal (with reliefs of Alexander II.) admits us to the —
Court (PI. A), which is surrounded on two sides by a colonnade
with a double row of papyrus-columns with bud-capitals. On the
Temple of Khons. TTIEBES ( E. BANK!
'20. Route.
261
smooth shafts and on the walls arc representations of Ilerihor
olTering sacrifices. The court had four side-exits.
On the right (E.) wall is a noteworthy relief: Herihor offers incense
before the sacred boats of Amon (with the ram's head), Mul (with the
goddess's head), and Khons (with the falcon's head). To the right is a
relief of the facade of the temple, showin'^ the pylon with its flag-staffs.
Tn the rear of the court is a ratnp leading to the Pronaos
or Vestibule, which is borne by twelve columns. Beyond this lies a
Hypostyle Hall (PI. B), occupying the entire breadth of the build-
ing. The central aisle has four
papyrus-columns with calyx-cap-
itals, while the two side-aisles on
each side, which are 5 ft. lower,
are separated by two columns
with bud-capitals. On the walls
and columns appears Ramses XII.
sacrificing to various deities.
A iloor in the centre of the
rear wall leads to the Chapel
(PI. C), which is open at both ends
and was separated from the rest
of the building by an Ambulatory
(PI. D) 10 ft. wide. In the chapel
was preserved the sacred boat of
Khons. The reliefs on the out-
side of the walls of the chapel
represent the king (Ramses IV.
and Ramses XIJ.) before various
gods. Blocks bearing represent-
ations and cartouches of Thut-
mosis III. have been built into
the walls of the chapel.
On each side of the chapel
lie dark chambers, with reliefs
by Ramses IV.; and behind it a
doorway of the Ptolemaic period
admits to a Small Hall (I'l. E),
with 4 sixteen -sided columns.
The reliefs in this hall exhibit
Ramses IV. (but occasionally also the Emp. Augustus, e.g. on each
side of the entrance) before the Theban gods. Adjoining are seven
Small Chambers (PI. F-M), with reliefs of Ramses III. and his
successor. In Rooms H and I tlie colours are particularly well pre-
served; in Room M, which was probably dedicated to the worship
of Osiris, is a representation of tlie dead Osiris upon his bier, witli
Isis and Nephthys mourning over him.
The Temple Roof, which, however, is at present inacces.^ible, affords
admirable view of the temples of Karnak. ttn the roof are nuraerons
Bakdekbb's Kgypt. 7th Kdit. 17
264 Route 20. THEBES (E. BANK) 2. Rarnak .-
hieratic inscriptions, besides representations of foot-prints, placed here
by pilgrims to the temple.
Adjoining the temple of Khons on the S.W. is a Temple of
Epet, the hippopotamus - goddess , erected by Euergetes II. ; the
building stands upon a basis about 10 ft. in height, crowned with
a concave cornice. The keeper of the temple of Khons will open it
on request. The main entrance is on the W. side; on the jambs
appears the king before Osiris and other deities. We enter first a
Rectangular Hall, with a well-preserved ceiling resting upon two
columns, with calyx-capitals and heads of Hathor above them. The
grated windows at the top of the S. wall should be noted. To the
right lie three side-rooms with crypts; the door on the left is built
up. — We proceed through the central door into a Second Hall,
flanked by two side-rooms, of which that to the left contains a re-
presentation of the dead Osiris upon the bier. We then pass through j
a door, on the right jamb of which appears the goddess Epet, and 1
enter the Sanctuary, where a figure of the goddess stood in a niche. •
The reliefs show us the king (usually Euergetes II.) before the gods. [
— In the E. wall of the temple is a Chapel of Osiris (separate <
entrance on the E. side), constructed by Ptolemy XIII,, to which
belongs the shaft issuing from the sanctuary of the Temple of Epet, '
in which perhaps a relic of Osiris was buried.
b. The Great Temple of AMON.f
From the Temple of Khons we proceed in the direction of the
Nile and soon reach the first pylon of the great temple of Amon.
To the W, of this is the house of the director of the excavations
(M. Georges Legrain). Direct route from Luxor, see p. 262, Donkeys
and carriages must be left at the door to the W. of the seventh pylon
(p. 279). The rectangular terrace in front of the first pylon was even
in antiquity covered by the waters of the inundation, as is indicated
by marks on its front, recording the height of the inundations under
the 21st-26th dynasties. On the terrace rises a small Obelisk of Se-
thos II., beside which is the base of its companion. An avenue of
recumbent rams, erected by Ramses II., extended from this point
to the portal of the temple of Amon. The fragments of building
to the S.W. of the right pylon-tower belong to a Chapel, erected
about 390 B.C. by King Achoris and his successor Psamuthis. In
the interior Psamuthis appears on the right and left walls, offer-
ing incense to the boat of Amon.
t The Great Temple of Anion, like the temples on the left bank
(comp. p. 281), is placed with its longer axis at right angles to the Nile.
According to the practice of Lepsius and other Egyptologists, we consider
the Nile as flowing from S. to N., and so use the simple expressions W.,
N., E., S., whereas geographical accuracy would require N.W., N.E.. S.E.,
and S.W. The true N. is indicated on our plans by an arrow.
TEMPLE OF MONT
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Temple of Amon. THEBES (E. BANKl. 20. Route. 26b
The great **Teinple of Amon was not built on any single uni-
form plan, but owes its present form to the building activity of
many successive rulers of Egypt. From the Middle Empire to the
Ptolemaic period most of the Pharaohs took some share in adding
to or adorning this shrine, rivalling each other in the magnitude of
their designs. The foundation of the temple must be dated not
later than the first monarchs of the 12th Dynasty. Amenophis I.
built a second sanctuary alongside the main temple of the Middle
Empire, but this was again removed at an early period (p. 278).
When Thutmosis I. made Thebes the capital of the New Empire
the original modest shrine seemed no longer worthy of the dignity
of the god, and the king therefore built round the temple of the
Middle Empire a large court which was bounded on the W. by a
pylon (No. V), and was surrounded inside by colonnades with statues
of Osiris. At a later date he erected in front of this another pylon
(No. IV) with an enclosing wall, placed two obelisks in front of this,
and constructed a colonnade between the two pylons. In the reign
of Hatsbepsut alterations and additions were made in the interior.
In front of the temple of the Middle Empire, in the court of Thut-
mosisl., she constructed a special sanctuary, and in the colonnade be-
tween pylons IV and V she erected two obelisks, besides practically
rebuilding the colonnade itself. Her brother Thutmosis HI. continued
these alterations when he became sole monarch. He tore down most
of the colonnades in the court of Thutmosis I. and replaced them
with a series of small chapels. A new pylon (No. VI) was erected,
and the court between this and the building of Hatshepsut, which
had been embellished with a vestibule, was adorned with colon-
nades. The colonnade of Thutmosis I., between pylons IV and V,
was subjected to a thoroughgoing alteration, the main object of which
was to withdraw the obelisks of Hatshepsut from the gaze of visitors
of the temple. Two new obelisks were raised in front of those of
Thutmosis I. About twenty years later the king continued his alter-
ations of the temple by erecting the two Halls of Records and the
antechambers between pylons V and VI. To the reign of Thut-
mosis III, is due also the Great Festal Temple (the so-called 'Pro-
menoir') which lies to the E., i.e. behind the main temple. Amen-
ophis 111. erected a new pyloii (No. Ill) on the main front of the
temple. All these buildings of the 18th Dynasty were thrown into
the shade by the erections under the 19th Dynasty. Ramses I.
raised still another pylon (No. H), and Sethos I. and Ramses II.
created between this fifth pylon and the pylon of Amenophis III.
that gigantic Hypostyle Hall which has remained ever since as
one of the chief wonders of Egyptian architecture. Ramses II.
caused also a second girdle -wall to be built, outside the wall of
Thutmosis 111. The temple now seemed to have received its final
form. The temples of Sethos 11. and Ramses 111. were separate
buildings, erected in front of the facade of the great sanctuary. But
17*
266 Route 20. THEBES (E. BANKl. 2. Karvak :
the Libyan kings of Bubastis (22nd Dyn.) revived the traditions of
the ancient Pharaohs. A huge court, with colonnades on two sides
and incorporating half of the temple of Ramses III., was built by
Shoshenk in front of the pylon of Ramses I. Taharka, the Ethio-
pian (26th Dyn.), afterwards reared a kiosque-like building with
colossal columns in this court. The temple was now left unaltered
for some time, but under the Ptolemies it underwent fresh alter-
ations (including the erection of the granite Chapel of Philip) and
received its final great pylon (No. I). Its decay began in the time of
the Roman emperors (p. 256). — Extensive excavations and restor-
ations have been very successfully accomplished since 1895 by the
French archaeologist, M. Georges Legrain (p. 264), working under
the auspices of the Egyptian Service des Antiquit^s.
The *First Pylon is still 370 ft. wide , with walls 49 ft. thick
and 1421/2 ft. high. This gigantic portal, which dates from the
Ptolemies, was never completed ; and portions of the scaffolding,
constructed of crude bricks, remain to this day. — The inscrip-
tions on the door of the pylon merit notice. The one on the right,
high up, placed there by the savants who accompanied the army of
Napoleon to Egypt in 1799, records the latitude and longitude of
the chief temples of the Pharaohs, as calculated by them; opposite,
on the left, is one erected by an Italian learned society (Feb. 9th,
1841), showing the variation of the compass as 10'56".
A magnificent *Vlew is enjoyed from the top, which is reached
by a staircase on the N. tower (comp. p. 267). It is interesting to
seek to identify, with the aid of the accompanying plan, the various
columns, obelisks, and pillars, though at first we seem to see noth-
ing but a confused system of ruins.
The *Great Court, built by the rulers of the 22nd Dynasty, is
276 ft. deep and 338 ft. wide. On each side is a row of columns,
that on the right (S.) being interrupted by the temple of Ramses III.
(see p. 267). To the left stands the small —
Temple of Sethos II., built of grey sandstone, with the ex-
ception of the door-frames and the lower part of the walls, for which
a reddish qtiartzose sandstone has been used. The temple has three
chapels, of which that in the centre, dedicated to Amon, and that
on the left, dedicated to Mut, are filled with rubbish. The third
chapel is that of Khons; on the walls the king is represented before
the boat of Khons, which is decorated with falcons' heads, and
before Amon, Mut, and Khons.
Beside the Temple of Sethos II., on the N.W. side of the court, are
a number of recumbent rams, which were stored here in antiquity. They
belonged to the Sphinx Avenue of Ramses II. (p. 264), which led to the
second pylon, and were removed on the erection of the various buildings
in the great court.
In the centre of the great court are two large Pedestals for sta-
tues (that on the right retains its base only). Behind was the
Kiosque of Taharka; of the original ten columns there still stand
Temple of Anion. THEBES (^E. BANK). 20. Route. 261
five brokea shafts on the left side and one complete column (with
calyx-capital and abacus) on the right. This structure had a door on
each of its four sides ; in front of the W. door is a recumbent sphinx.
Tpon the complete coluum, ou the right, Psamiuetichos II. (26th Dyn.)
has placed his name over that of the Ethiovian Taharka (25th Dyn.); be-
.side it is the name of Ptolemy IV. Philojiator, which appears also on the
abacus. The shaft is composed of 25 coirses of carefully hewn stone, the
capital iif 5 courses. The height is 69 ft.; the greatest breadth of the
capital 16 ft., the circumference at the top 49 ft. The columns were united
by means of stone screens, dating from the reign of Philopator.
A duor in the N. walk of the colonnade surrounding the great court
leads out of the temple, and from this point we may skirt the outer wall
to the left to the steps leading to the top of the First Pylon (see p. 266).
To the right, facing the great court, is the *Temple of Ram-
ses III., which was dedicated to Amon. It is perhaps the best ex-
taut specimen of a simple Egyptian temple, built throughout ou a
single homogeneous plan. Its total length is 170 ft.
The Pylon with the entrance-door, which has two statues of the
king, is much injured, especially at the top. On the exterior of the
left tower (E.) Ramses III., with the double crown, smites a band
of prisoners with his club. Amon, in front of him, hands him the
sword of victory and delivers to him chained together the repre-
sentatives of the vanquished peoples, who appear in three rows. In
the two upper rows are the conquered nations of the south, in the
third row those of the north. On the right wing are similar repre-
sentations, the king here wearing the crown of I^ower Egypt. In the
doorway Ramses III. receives from Amon the symbol of life, etc.
Beyond the pylon is an open Court, flanked by covered passages.
The roofs of these passages are each supported by eight pillars,
against which lean colossal figures of Ramses III. as Osiris.
On the rear walls of the pylon-towers, facing the court, are represent-
ations of Ramses III. receiving from Amon the hieroglyphic for 'jubilee',
as a sign that the king would yet celebrate many jubilees. — The walls
of the colonnades are embellished with reliefs : in the E. arcade, the pro-
cession of the sacred boat of Amon ; in the W. arcade, a procession with
the statue of the ithyphallic Amon, borne by priests and accompanied by
standard-bearers. — The architraves bear llorid dedicatory inscriptions,
recording that Ramses III. erected this monument in honour of his father
Amon. — A door in the left colonnade opens into the Portico of the
Bubastides (p. 263) ; and one in the right colonnade (now built up) ad-
mitted to the 8. colonnade of the great court.
The court is adjoined by the Vestibule or Pronaos of the temple,
which latter is on a higher level. It is supported in front by four
Osiris-pillars, and in the rear by four columns with bud-capitals.
The pillars arc united by stone screens adorned with reliefs.
From the vestibule a door leads into a Hypostyle Hall, with eight
columns with bud-capitals. Adjoining are three Cliapels, dedicated
respectively to Amon (in tlie middle), Mut (left), and Khons (^right),
and each containing representations of the king sacrificing to the
boat of the respective god. Beside the chapel of Khons is another
chamber, and beside the chapel of Mnt is a staircase, while beyond
the chapel of Amon, ou each side, is a chamber.
268 Route W. THEBES (E. BANK). •>. Karaak :
From the court of the Temple of Ramses we pass through the E.
door to the Portico of the Bubastides^ situated at the S.E. corner of
the great court. This portico was embellished with reliefs and in-
scriptions by the kings of the 22nd Dynasty.
The following reliefs may be particularized. To the left (E. ; on the
projecting wall), above: Amon hands King Osorkon I. the curved sword
and the palm-branch (symbol of long life); below : Khnum holds the hiero-
glyph for 'life' to the king's nose; Hathor gives milk to the king. — Right
(W.) Wall: Takelothis II. and his son Osorkon, the high-priest of Amon,
before Amon. Below is a long inscription.
We return to the great court and proceed to tlie dilapidated —
Second Pylon of Ramses I. The tower on the right, with four
long grooves for the flag-staft's, has been freed from the ruins of
later buildings.which were erected in front of it out of the materials
of a temple of the heretical period (comp. p. cii). The left tower is
to be laid bare later. In the centre is the huge portal. On the S.
side of the right tower appears Ramses II. defeating his foes in pre-
sence of Amon. In front of the portal was a kind of small Vestibule,
the entrance to which was flanked by two statues of Ramses II. Tlie
figure on the right side still stands; only the legs of the other figure
remain. In the doorway, where the cartouches of Ramses I., Sethos I.,
and Ramses II. are found, an intervening door was erected by Pto-
lemy VI. Philometor and Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., during their joint
reign. The lintel of this doorway is wanting, but the jambs are in
good preservation, with reliefs showing the king sacrificing to the
gods of the temple. On the inner side (left) of the earlier doorway,
at the foot, are the sacred boat of Amon and the king entering the
temple. In the second row from the foot appears Ramses II. kneeling
before Amon and holding the symbol of jubilee, indicative of long
reign. Behind stands the goddess Mut, while Khons, with the moon's
disk on his head, conducts Philometor to behold the god Amon. Prob-
ably the representation is a restoration by Philometor of an older work
on the same spot. The other rows exhibit the king in presence of
various deities. — We next enter the —
**Grreat Hypostyle Hall, which was justly considered orte of the
wonders of the world. It has recently been restored and freed from
rubbish by the Egyptian Service des Antiquites, under the direction
of M. Legrain. Though a certain picturesque effect due to the former
ruinous condition has necessarily been lost, the huge hall is still
extraordinarily impressive as we look southwards from the N. side
through the rows of columns. This is especially the case in the
morning or evening, or by moonlight, when the columns cast ^in-
tense black shadows.
The breadth of this great hall is 338 ft., its depth 170 ft., and
its area 6000 sq, yds., an area spacious enough to accommodate the
entire church of Notre Dame at Paris. The roof was supported by
134 columns arranged in 16 rows, of which the two central rows
Temple of Anion. THEBES (^E. BANK). -20. lioule. 269
are higher than tbo others and consist of papyrus-columns with
calyx-capitals, while the other rows have clustered columns with
bnd-capitals. The hall is divided into nave and aisles. The nave,
itself divided into three aisles, is ca. 79 ft. in height. The roof is
supported by the two central rows of columns and one of the lower
rows on each side, the deflcieni-y in the height of the latter being
met by placing square pillars above them. The spaces between
these pillars were occupied by windows with stone lattice -work
Hypostyle Hall of Karnak (reconstruction, sfter'jraspero).
Tone on the S. side is still almost perfect). The side-aisles are
33 ft. lower than the nave.
The columns are not nionnlithic but are built up of semi-drnnip,
o'/z ft. in heiuht and 6"2 ft. in diameter. The material is a reddish-brown
sandstone. Each of the twelve columns in the two central rows is IIV4 ft. in
diameter and upwards of 33 ft. in circumference, i.e. as thick .-'S Trajan's
Column in Rome or the Vendome Column in Paris. It requires six men
with outstretched arms to span one of the.se huge columns. Their hetRht
is 69 ft., that of the canital.s 11 ft. The remaining 122 columns are each
42V2 ft. in heiglit and 27V2 ft. in circumference.
To the right of the entrance is the frame of a large memorial
stone' of Ramses II., in front of which lies an alabaster slab with a
representation of .subject races (negroes and A.siatics); to the left of
the door arc colossal statues of Araon and Ramses II.
270 Route 'JO. THEBES (E. BANK). 2. Karnak:
The walls of the hall, the shafts of the columns, the abaci, and
the architrave are covered with inscriptions and reliefs, many of
which still retain their ancient colouring. These date from the
reigns of Sethos I. and Ramses II. , the former of whom buUt
the N. half of the hall (as far as the 10th row of columns), the
latter the S. half. Only a single column (the first in the 6th row)
bears the names of Ramses I. Ramses III., Ramses IV., Ram-
ses VI., and Ramses XII. have likewise recorded their names. The
scenes on the columns show the king adoring the gods of Thebes.
Those by Sethos I. are in delicate low relief, those by Ramses II.
in ruder sunk relief. Among the beautiful Reliefs of Sethos I.
(Plan a, 6, c) the finest is that on the E. half of the N. wall
(PI. i). We here see the king kneeling before the god Harakhte,
who is seated beneath a canopy, while behind the king stands the
lion -headed goddess Wert-hekew holding a palm-branch, from
which hang various symbols. To the left the king kneels beneath
the sacred tree of Heliopolis, on whose leaves the god Thout is in-
scribing his majesty's name. Among the Reliefs of Ramses II. those
to the right and left of the S. side-door are worth noticing. To the
right Ramses II. is represented burning incense in front of the sacred
bark of Amon, which is carried by priests in the shape of semi-gods
with falcons' and jackals' heads and accompanied by the king as
high-priest clad in a panther-skin; to the left, the coronation of
the king beneath the sacred tree of Heliopolis. — In the S. aisle is
a fine sandstone statue of Sethos U. (headless).
On the outside of the N. and S. walls of this hall are •Historical
Reliefs of great importance, commemorating the victories of Sethos I.
(N.) and Ramses II. (S.) over the inhabitants of Palestine and the
Libyans.
AVe pass through the N.E. door, beside PI. d, and begin with
the reliefs at the E. end of the North Wall (PI. d) : Upper Row. Here
we see King Sethos in Lebanon. The inhabitants, whose physi-
ognomies are distinctly characterized, are forced to fell trees for the
king. Lower Row, Battle with the Beduins of S. Palestine, Sethos
is driving in his chariot and launching his arrows against the foes,
who lie in confused heaps of dead and wounded. Above, to the
left, is the fortress of Canaan, whose inhabitants are beseeching
mercy or assisting the fugitives to ascend into it.
We now turn the corner and reach Plan e : Upper Row (partly
destroyed; described from left to right). 1. Battle of Yenuam in
Syria. The king, advancing to the attack in his chariot, shoots arrows
against the enemy, whose charioteers, cavalry, and infantry flee in
wild confusion. To the left is the fortress of Yenuam, surrounded
with water. The inhabitants of the country, many of whom are re-
presented full face (contrary to the usual Egyptian method), conceal
themselves among trees. 2. The king binding captive Syrians with
his own hand. 3. The king, marching behind his chariot, appears
Temple of Anion. THEBES (E. BANK). 20. Route. 271
dragging four captives with him and drawing others in two rows
behind him. 4. Sethos leads two rows of captured Syrians before
the Thebaii triad, Amou, Mut, and Khons, to whom he also pre-
sents costly vessels captured amongst the booty. — Lower Row
(from left to right). 1. Triumphal progress of the king through
Palestine. Sethos, standing in his chariot, which advances at a
walk, turns towards the princes of Palestine, who do him homage
with uplifted hands. Behind the king are a fortress and the costly
vessels taken from the foe. Above and below the horses are seen
small castles, built by the king to protect the water-stations. 2.
Battle against the Beduins of S. Palestine. The king, in his chariot,
shoots arrows against the enemy, the survivors of whom flee to the
mountains. Beneath are several castles and wells, with the wounded
lying beside them. 3. Victorious return of the king from Syria. The
king stands in his chariot, pres'eded and followed by fettered cap-
tives. The boundary between Asia and Africa is marked by a canal
bordered by reeds, in which crocodiles swim; the canal is spanned
by a bridge, at each end of which is a fortified guard-house. On
the Egyptian side (to the right) two groups of priests, with nosegays,
and grandees welcome the returning monarch. 4. The king dedicates
the captured Syrians and the booty to Amon.
To the right and left of the door are two colossal reliefs, in
which the king raises his club against a band of foes whom he holds
by the hair. Opposite is Amon, with several rows of captured na-
tions and cities and presenting the curved sword of victory to Sethos.
The representations on the W. part of the N. wall (PI. f) begin
at the other end and run from right to left. Top Roic. Storming of
Kadesh in the land of Amor (N. Palestine). The king (figure want-
ing) shoots against the foe from his chariot, which has overthrown
a hostile chariot. To the right, on a tree-clad height, appears the
fortress of Kadesh, the defenders of which are pierced with arrows.
A herd of cattle, accompanied by the herdsmen, takes to flight. —
Middle Row. 1. Battle against the Libyans. The king in his chariot
holds with his bow a Libyan, whom he is about to smite with the
sword. To the right are heaps of dead and wounded enemies. The
Libyans are distinguished by large pigtails worn on one side and by
feathers on their heads. 2. The king transfixes a Libyan with his
lance. 3. The king in his chariot, preceded by two rows of captured
foes. 4. The king presents the captives and the booty to the Theban
triad. — Bottom Row. 1. Battle against the Hittites in N. Syria. The
king in his chariot shoots against his foes, who betake themselves to
headlong flight in chariots, on horseback, or on foot. 2. The king in
his chariot grasps cords to which are fastened several captives and
two hostile chariots. In front of him are two rows of captured
Hittites. 3. The king consecrates the captives and the booty to the
Theban triad, who are in this instance accompanied by the goddess
of truth. — "We re-enter the great hypostyle hall by the N. side-door.
212 Route -20. THEBES (E. BANK). -J. Kama k:
The reliefs on the outside of the S. "Wall (PI. g, It) commem-
orate in similar fashion the Syrian campaigns of Ramses II., chiefly
those against the Hittites, but they are best visited after seeing
the rest of the temple buildings, from the door beside the seventh
pylon (comp. p. 279). At the W. end of this wall, on the outside of
the S. tower of the second pylon, is the Triumphal Inscription of
Shoshenk I. (the Shishak of the Bible). This commemorates the
victory won by Shishak over Rehoboam, son of Solomon, King of
Judah. The large form of Amon appears to the left, grasping in
his right hand the sword of victory and in his left cords binding five
rows of captured towns in Palestine, each of which is represented
by a circular wall enclosing its name, beneath the upper part of a
fettered prisoner. The curved noses, prominent cheek-bones, and
pointed beards of the captives clearly identify them as Semitic.
Beneath Amon appears the goddess of the Theban nome, with the
name of the nome I upon her head. She holds a club, bow, and
TFFRP
quiver, and leads five rows of captives with cords. To the right
Shishak is seen grasping a group of cowering Semites by the hair
and smiting them with his club. The figure of Shishak was left un-
finished.
The Biblical passages referring to the campaign are 1 Kings xiv. 25, 26
and 2 Chron. xii. 2-4 & 9. Of the name -labels only a few can be
identified with certainty with otherwise known names of places in Pal-
estine, such as Rabbath (last ring of the first row), Taanach, Shunem,
Rehob , Haphraim, Mahanaim , Gibeon, Beth-Horon, Kedemoth, Ajalon
(in the second row). The rest of the inscriptions , which are couched
in the usual bombastic style, give no further information as to the
campaign.
On the projecting wall to the E. of the S. side-door is an in-
scription containing the Treaty of Peace concluded with the prince
of the Hittites by Ramses II. in the 21st year of his reign. — At
PI. ?■, beyond the projecting wall, we see Ramses II. leading two
rows of captives before Amon. Beneath is the poetical account of
the Hittite campaign (the so-called Epic of Pentaur). At PI. k, on
the end of the wall (beside the closed S.E. door of the hypostyle
hall), we find a relief of Ramses II. presenting to Amon the cap-
tives and costly vessels taken in the Syrian campaigns.
The Third Pylon, built by Amenophis III. and now completely
ruined, forms the rear wall of the great hypostyle court, into which
its Vestibule still projects. On the rear of the S. tower (PI. t) is a
long inscription (unfortunately imperfect at the top), recording the
gifts of Amenophis III. to the god Amon ; and on the rear of the
N. tower (PI. m) are seen the last remnants of a larger represent-
ation of a festal voyage , in the shape of a sacred bark of Amon
with the king on board and another fully manned ship.
Tem}4e of Amon. THEBES (K. BANK). 20. Route, 21 '6
In the adjoining Central Court we come flist upon an Obelisk,
the last survivor of four erected in pairs by Thutmosis I. and
Thutmosis III. It is 75^2 ft- ^igb *nd stands upon a base 6 ft.
square. On each face of the obelisk are three vertical inscriptions,
the central one being the dedicatory insciiplion of Thutmosis I.
and the other two additions by Ramses IV. and Ramses VI. The
bases of the three other obelisks are adjacent. The obelisks of Thut-
mosis I. marked the entrance to the temple in his reign.
Next follows Pylon IV, in a most ruinous condition. (According
to the inscriptions in relief the door was restored by Alexander the
Great.) Beyond it are the scanty remains of a —
Colonnade, originally embellished with columns and with niches
containing colossal statues of Osiris (with arms crossed and the
symbol for 'life' in each hand). Within this colonnade rose the two
great Obelixks of Queen Hatshepsut, made of line pink granite from
Assuan and covered at the apex with electrum (a mixture of gold
and silver). The right obelisk has been overthrown and broken;
long inscriptions on the base celebrate the power of the queen. The
left *Obelisk, still standing, is 97 ft. high and its diameter at the
base is 8^/2 ft.; it is the tallest ancient obelisk known, with the
exception of the Lateran Obelisk (in Rome), whirh is 105 ft. high.
On each of the four sides is a single vertical inscription recording
the dedication of the obelisks and the fact that they were made in
7 months. On the upper parts are reliefs, showing Hatshepsut,
Thutmosis I., and Thutmosis III. sacrificing to Amon. The names
and figures of Amon were obliterated by Amenophis IV., but
restored by Sethos I. By the wall to the left is a granite statue
of Thutmosis UI., kneeling and holding an altar in front of him.
This Colonnade underwent various transformations under the 18th Dyn-
asty. When Thutmosis 1. built it originally it had a wooden roof borne
by wooden columns, afterwards replaced by stone ones, of which three
bases are still in Htit. The two obelisks were erected by Hatshepsut
to celebrate the I6th year of her reign. Thutmosis III. afterwards sur-
rounded the obelisks with a sandstone structure which concealed them
to a height of about 82 ft., portions of which still remain. The colon-
nade was transformed by receiving a stone roof supported by two rows
of papyrus-columns (six on the N. side, eight on the S.). The five old
columns were, however, retained. Niches were formed in the walls and
filled with statues of Thutmosis I., removed from the great court (p. 266).
The decoration of the S. part was not concluded until the reign of
Amenophis IT.
Through the Fifth Pylon, also erected by Thutmosis I., we reach
two small Antechambers, inserted by Thutmosis III. in front of the
sixth pylon, and now in a state of ruin. To the right and left of
these are two larger courts adorned with colonnades of sixteen-sided
columns and statues of Osiris. These form the last remnant of the
great court of Thutmosis I., which once surrounded the temple of the
Middle Empire. In the passage leading to the N. court is a colossal
seated figure of Amenophis II., in red granite. — The Sixth Pylon,
the last and smallest of all, an erection of Thutmosis III., is now in
274 Route W. THEBES (E. BANK). 2. Karnak:
ruins. On the walls to the right and left of the granite gateway are
representations in the usual style of the cities and tribes subdued
by Thutmosis III. (comp. p. 272) ; to the right are the tribes of the
S., to the left 'the tribes of the Upper Retenu {i.e. Syria), which
His Majesty took in the wretched town of Megiddo'.
Beyond the sixth pylon lies the First Hall of Records, erected
by Thutmosis III. , in a court which he had constructed some time
previously. Here stand two large Granite Pillars, which once support-
ed the roof. The S. (right) pillar bears the lily of Upper Egypt, the
N. pillar the papyrus of Lower Egypt. Here are also the remains
of wonderful Colossal Statues of Amon (much restored) and of the
Ooddess Amunet , in reddish sandstone , dedicated by King Tut-
enkli-Amun, whose name was later replaced by that of Haremheb.
To the left and right of this Hall of Records are the court and colon-
nades of Thutmosis III., the ceiling of which was borne by clustered
papyrus-columns with 16 shafts. On the back of the entrance-door to the
S. part are representations of Sethos II. On the E. wall, in the facade
of the building of Hatshepsut, is a false door which was once lavishly
adorned 'with gold and lapis lazuli'. On the S. side are five chapels for
the worship of Amenophis I.
The Chapel in which the sacred boat stood on a pedestal (still
in situ) was built in the time of Philip Arrhidaeus, probably on the
site of an earlier chapel of Thutmosis III. the granite reliefs of which
were used as paving-stones (two reliefs are now standing in the
N.E. and S.E. corners, a third in the chamber to the S. of the Hall
of Records). The chapel is built entirely of pink granite and is
divided into two chambers. The front chamber, opening to the W.,
is 20 ft. long, the hinder one is over 25 ft. long and has in the E.
wall a double window reached by four granite steps. The walls both
outside and inside were covered with reliefs , the colouring of
which is stiU in good preservation at some points.
Interior Walls. In the first chamber Philip appears offering sacrifices
to various forms of Amon and performing other religious rites. The
figures and inscriptions are picked out with bluish -green pigment. The
reliefs in the second chamber are larger, hut in poorer preservation. Here,
to the left, Philip is seated at a banquet. — Exterior Walls. On the S.
side of the first chamber are four rows of reliefs, the lowest of which is
destroyed: 1. Rites attending the entrance of the chapel by the king; the
goddess Amunet gives milk to the king. 2, 3. The sacred boats of Amon,
borne by priests, going and returning on a festal occasion. On the S. wall
of the second chamber are four sadly damaged reliefs, side by side, re-
presenting the king sacrificing to various forms of Amon or performing
religions ceremonies. On the N. wall of the first chamber the king oflers
two small trees to Amon-Kametf. On the N. wall of the second chamber
are representations of foundation ceremonies and of sacrificial scenes.
On the N. wall of the second Hall of Records of Thutmosis III.
(enclosing the chapel) are long inscriptions detailing the military
achievements of that monarch. The relief above the inscription to
the right of the black granite door depicts Thutmosis III. conferring
gifts on the temple (two obelisks, vases, necklaces, chests). — Open-
ing off the Hall of Records to the N. and S. are a number of rooms,
all more or less in ruins, which were built and embellished with
Temple nfAmcn. THEBES (E. BANK). 20. Route. 275
reliefs by Queen Hatshepsut. As in all other places, the names and
figures of the queen have heen scratched out or replaced by those of
Thutmosis II. or Thutmosis III. In the S. half are a room containing
a staircase leading to the roof, and a chamber with a granite altar
dedicated by Thutmosis III. Here is also a fine statue of Ameno-
phis II. (sitting beside a damaged figure of Amon).
The Reliefi of Qmen Ilrilshepsul, in a room to the N. shut off by a black
E:ranite door (key with 31. LegraiD, p. 264), are very fine and have retained
their colour well. The left wall, which oriiiinally adjoined the X. wall
of the second record hall, was removed thence and re-erected here.
We now descend to the E. to an open space, strewn with the
scanty relics of the earliest Temfle of the Middle Empire. In front
of the chambers of Thutmosis III., which may be recognized on the
N. side, ran a path, on which the Pharaohs erected statues to the
grandees judged worthy of that honour. — We next reach the —
Great Festal Temple of Thutmosis III, We enter by the main portal
on the S.W. (PI. a), in front of which stand two statues of the king
as Osiris (the left one only complete) and the stumps of two sixteen-
sided columns. We turn to the left, traverse the antechambers,
and find ourselves in the (ireat Festal Hall, which has five aisles
and is 144 ft. wide and 52 ft. deep. The roof of the three central
aisles, which were higher than the others, was supported by "20 col-
umns in two rows and 32 square pillars. The tent-pole shaped
columns (p. clxi) are unique, and indicate that the architect con-
ceived the central aisles as forming a huge festal tent. The pillars,
not so tall as the columns, were of the same height as the outer
walls and with the latter supported the pentagonal roofing slabs of
the lower side-aisles. At the same time they were prolonged to the
same height as the columns by means of imposts and architrave, in
order to assist the columns in supporting the roof of the central
aisles. The reliefs on the pillars show Thutmosis III. in presence
of the gods. The hall contains several torsos of statues found there.
At the S.W. corner of the hall is the chamber (PI. c) in which was
found the so-called Karnak Table of the Kings, a list of the Etiyptian mon-
archs from the earliest times down to the 18th IJyn. (transferred in 1843
to the Bibliotheque Rationale in Paris). The statuos of the ancient kings
which were carried in procession by the priests were probably kept in
this room. — On the N. side of the three central aisles lie three Chapels:
the one on the W. (Pl.x) contains a colossal group of Thutmosis III. between
Amon and Ulut. — From the N.W. corner of the hall we pass through an
antechamber (PI. z) into a narrow corridor, the N. side of which is adorn-
ed with fine reliefs : Thutmosis III. offering incense to the ithyphallic
Amon; the king pouring water over Amon, while on the right priests and
singing men and women approach ; the king pouring water on an altar
in presence of Amon and burning incense. From the N.E. angle of the
Festal Hall a flight of steps ascends within a tower-like structure to a
chamber which was perhaps used for astronomical purposes and still con-
tains an aliar. — The rooms on the E. side of the Festal Hall are in a
verjr ruinous condition. On the N.E. is a chamber with two pillars, and
adjoining it lies a dilapidated chapel with a large granite altar. — The
central door in the E. aisle leads into three chambers, of which only the
lower part of the walls is now left. Adjoining, on the N., and reached by
steps, is a Smai.i. Uoo.m, with it.s roof siip|mrted l)y 4 clustered papyrus-
'216 Route 20. THEBES (E. BANK). 2.Kamak:
columns with bud-capitala (still in good preservation) ; on the lower part
of the wall are representations of the plants and animals brought from
Syria to Egypt by Thutmosis III. in the 26th year of hU reign. To the S.
is the Alexander Room, built by Thutmosis III. and embellished with re-
liefs and inscriptions by Alexander the Great. The reliefs show Alexander
(or occasionally Thutmosis) sacrificing. Farther on is a Haj.i, with 8 six-
teen-sided columns (7 still erect), and to the E. of it are rooms with pillars
in two stories; beyond that, forming the end of the temple on the S. side,
runs a Cokeidoe, opening off which are two small rooms with pillars and
seven other chambers with reliefs of Thutmosis III.
The central and E. portions of the Temple of Amoii (from
Pylon 111 onwards) were surrounded by a Giedle Wall, the ex-
tant remains of which are covered with reliefs of Ramses II. sacri-
ficing to the gods. On the E. side of this girdle-wall and to the E.
of the Festal Temple of Thutmosis III. lies a second Sanctuary of
Thutmosis HI., which was prohably dedicated to the cult of that
king and his sister Hatshepsut after their death. In the central
chapel (PI. a) are colossal seated figures of the royal pair; in front
of it, to the E., is a pillared hall, containing six gigantic statues
of the king, which were 'usurped' by Kamses II. — Farther to
the E., in the same main axis, lie the scanty ruins of a Temple
of Ramses II., which interrupts an old brick girdle -wall. Beyond
the entrance-gateway, which is situated on the E. side, we enter
a court with arcades formed of columns and of pillars embel-
lished with Osiris-statues; beyond that is a hypostyle hall. To the
E., in front of the portal, lay an arcade with 20 columns, of the time
of Taharka. To the N. of this are the remains of another Temple of
Ramies II., which was restored in the reign of the Ptolemies and was
perhaps dedicated to the cult of King MentuhotepIII. (11th Dyn.);
to the S., to the E. of the Sacred Lake, are the remains of a Brick
Building dating from a period anterior to the Middle Empire.
Farther on is the well-preserved E. Gateway (now closed) of the
great brick girdle-wall which enclosed the whole area of the temple.
It was built by one of the Ptolemies and is 62 ft. in height. It
lies 510 yds. distant from the first pylon (p. 266).
Against the girdle -wall stands a small Temple of Osiris (key with
M. Legrain, p. 264), erected by Osorkon III., his son and co-regent Take-
lothis III., and his daughter Shepenupet. The first chamber was added
later by Amenertais, sister of Shabako (25th Dyn.) and mother-in-law of
Psammetichos I. Mear it are several small chapels of the same period
(26th Dyn.). — If we turn to the right (S.) outside the gateway, we soon
reach a small building bearing the cartouches of Ramses III. and Ramses IV.
c. The Northern Buildings at Kaenak.
Of the buildings to the K. of the Temple of Amon the Temple of
Ptah alone is worth a visit; the others are in such bad preservation that
hurried travellers may omit a visit to them altogether.
From the N. side-door of the hypostyle hall an ancient paved
road leads N.E. to the Temple of Ptah, within the precincts of the
Temple of Amon, passing (left) a small brick fortress and three
small Chapels of the Late Period, all entered from the E.
Northern Buildings. THEPES (E. BANK). 20. Route. 217
The southernmost and largest of these cbapels was bailt towards the
close of the 26th Dyn. by the majordomo Peteneit. In the doorway we
see Psammetichos III. and Princess Enkh-nes-nefer-eb-re in presence of
Amon and other gods. Beyond is a hall built of brick, with four stone
columns. Tn the right of the entrance to the sanctuary is Nitocris, wife
of Psammetichos II., to the left is Amasis. — The central chapel wat
erected by a court official named Shoshenk in the reign of Amasis, who
is represented on the left jamb of the entrance-door. Un the right jamb
is Princess Enkh-nes-nefer-eb-re, to whose household Shoshenk Ijelonged.
The walls of this chapel are of brick, with the exception of the gates,
the columns of the court, and the sanctuary, which are of stone. — The
northern chapel, the oldest, wa.s built in the reign of Taharka (25th Dyn.),
who, along with the princess Shepenupet, appears on the walls.
The *Teinple of Ptah, patron -god of Memphis, was built by
Thutmosis 111. and enlarged and restored by Shabako the Ethiopian
and by several of the Ptolemies.
As we approach from the W., we reach five successive Gateways, of
which the second and fourth (PI. a and 6) were built by Shabako, whose
names have been scratched out, the others by a Ptolemy. Farther on is a
Porch, enclosed by two columns (with rich foliage capitals) connected
by a stone screen. The small Pi/lon beyond the porch has a portal bearing;
the name of Thutmosis III., restored in the Ptolemaic period. This
admits to a Court (PI. c) , embellished at the back with a porticus sup-
ported by two sixteen-sided columns. Two altar-bases of red granite stand
here, dedicated by Amenemhet 1. and Thutmosis III. In the walls are
ancient recesses. A staircase ascends to the upper story. A doorway
(with restored reliefs of Thutmosis III.) in the main axis of the temple
leads into the Sanctuary, which retains the original reliefs of Thutmosis III.
Here stands the image of Ptah, which is illuminated with weird effect
through an aperture in the ceiling (the modern wooden door shonld be
closed). To the right is a room with a statae of the lion-headed goddess
Sekhmet; to the left, another with a well-preserved ceiling and ancient
reliefs of Thutmosis III. — It is instructive to observe the difference in style
between the ancient and the restored reliefs.
To the S.E. of the Temple of Ptah, on the way to the Temple
of Osiris (p. 276), is a Storehouse, built by the P^thiopian Shabako,
consisting of a single hall borne hy 12 columns. Kound the brick
walls run stone tables on which the sacrificial gifts were laid.
From the Temple of Ptah we pass through a gate in the N. girdle
wall of the Temple of Amon and reach the North Temple Pre-
cincts, which are surrounded by a girdle-wall of brick. Here stands
the Templb of Mont, which is now so ruined and covered with
rubbish that its ground-plan can scarcely be made out. The temple
was built for the war -god Mont by Amenophis III, (18th Dyn.),
though it was subsequently several times enlarged and restored
between the reign of Ramses II. and the epoch of the Ptolemies.
The earlier sculptures and architectural fragments are of great
beauty. Two obelisks of red granite once stood in front of the N.
entrance, of which the bases and some fragments are still extant.
The N. gateway of the N. temple -precincts, built of sandstone,
dates from Ptolemy Euergetes. — In the girdle -wall to the S. of
the Temple of Mont is a gate adorned with the name of Nektanebes
(Nekht-Har-ehbet; p. cvii).
From the sandstone gateway we proceed to the S.W., passing the
remains of a Ptolemaic Temple (not yet freed from rubbish), of
278 Route 20. THEBES (E. BANK). 2. Karnal: :
which the staircase is still to be seen, to Six Small Chapels, each
of which is entered hy a sandstone gateway in the girdle-wall. Only
the two chapels farthest to the W. have left any considerable re-
mains. The second from the W. contains the name of Amenertais,
with that of her brother Shabako. The line alabaster statue of the
queen now in the museum at Cairo (p. 88) was found here. —
Farther on towards the river are numerous brick houses of a later
date, which have been largely demolished. Among them are the
remains of a small temple dedicated by Philopator to Thout. — To
the extreme N., amidst the houses of the village of Karnak, stands
a Small Temple, erected by Shepenupet, the daughter of the Ethio-
pian King Piankhi, and adorned with palm-columns.
d. The Southern Buildings at Karnak.
Situated to the S. of Ramses II.'s girdle-wall (p. 276) is the
Sacred Lake, named by the Arabs Birket el-Maliaha or Lake of the
Salt Pit, as the water has become saline and undrinkable through
Infiltration. The banks were anciently faced with hewn stones, and
traces of these are still to be seen on the W. and S. sides, and
even better on the N. On the N. bank of the lake stands a structure
of Thutmosis III. Near the N.W. corner are the ruins of a building
of Taharka, and on the bank of the lake is a colossal *Oranite Scara-
baeus, which was dedicated by Amenophis III. to the sun-god Atum-
Khepre, who was pictured in the form of a srarabffius.
We now proceed to visit the Connecting Buildings between the
Temple of Amon and the Temple of Mut.
Quitting the central court of the Temple of Amon, we enter a
court enclosed on two sides by walls and on the rear by Pylon VII,
all of which are in ruins. Here stood a temple erected by Amen-
ophis I. and taken down under Thutmosis III., the limestone blocks
of which have been recently rediscovered ; they are adorned with
fine reliefs. Adjacent is the so-called 'Karnak Cachette' (now closed
up again), a large pit in which a profusion of statues of all periods
was discovered (779 of stone, 17,000 of bronze; now mostly in the
museum at Cairo, see p. 84); they came from the Temple of Amon
and were probably buried here when no longer used. — On the
exterior of the W. wall was inscribed the famous treaty made by
Ramses II. with the Hittites (p. 272). On the E. wall is a long
inscription (PI. a), describing the contests of King Amenephthes
(Merenptah) with the Libyans and the peoples of the Mediterranean
(Etruscans, Achaeans, etc.), and a triumphal relief (PI. 6) of Ame-
nephthes, in the presence of Amon, smiting his enemies.
Pylon VII, built by Thutmosis III., whose victories are celebrat-
ed on it, originally served, like the following Pylon VIII, as the S.
entrance to the Temple of Amenophis I. (see above). In front of
theN. facade are colossal red granite statues of kings of the Middle
and New Empires; in front of the S. facade are the lower parts of
ffoulhern Buildings. THEBES (E, BANK), 2U. Route. 279
two colossal statues of Thutmosis III. ; in front of the easternmost
of these stands the lower part of a large obelisk of Thutmosis III.
The East Tower in front of the N. facade is adorned with a figure of
Osiris (on the front of which is an inscription of Ramses U. added at a
later date) and a colossal statue of Thutmosis III. On the West Tower are
(enumerated from left to right) a colossal statue of Thutmosis III. witli
the double crown, an Osiris figure of tlie same (its head on the ground
before it), a seated figure of a king of the Sliddle Empire, a seated figure
of Sebek-hotep, a statue of .Ainenophis II., and the left half of a memorial
inscription of Haremheb.
Beside Pylon VII is a modern door, by which visitors usually-
quit the temple-precincts (comp. p. 264) in order to inspect the re-
liefs on the S. exterior walls of the great hypostyle hall (p. 272).
Beside the easternmo.<t of the two walls which unite Pylon VII
with Pylon VIII lies (to the left) a small ruined Chapel dating from
the reign of Thutmosis III. (in peripteral form ; p. clxiii). Farther on,
on the same wall, is a representation (Pl.c) of Ramses II. sacrificing.
Pylon VIII is in comparatively good preservation, although it
was built by Queen Ilatshepsut and is thus the most ancient part
of the entire building. Hatshepsut's names were removed from the
reliefs by Thutmosis II. Sethos I. restored the reliefs which Amen-
ophis IV. (p. 255) had destroyed ; but in many cases he inserted his
own name instead of replacing those of the ancient kings.
N. Side. Left Tower (JC.). Above, 1. Sethos I. sacrificing to variojis
gods; farther to the right, 2. Thutmosis II. (originally Hatshepsut) led
into the temple by the lion -headed goddess Wert-hekew, followed by
Hathor; behind the king are priests carrying the sacred boat of Amon ;
beneath appears Thutmosis I. before the Theban triad. The inscription
in front of this king refers to the accession of Hatshepsut. — Hight Tower
fir.J, from left to right: 1. Sethos I. (originally Hatshepsut) led into
the temple by the falcon-headed Mont, who holds to his nose the symbol
for 'life'; behind are priests carrying the boat of Amon. 2 (upper row, to
the right). Thutmosis II. (originally Hatshepsut) before Amon and Khons;
behind the king are the goddess Wert-hekew and Thont, the latter writing
upon a palm -branch; beneath (in two rows), Ramses III. before various
gods. — On the Jambs of the Central Doorway are inscriptions of Thutmosis II.
(originally Hatshepsut) and Thutmosis III.
On each side in the Gateway is Ramses II. before various deities.
S. Side. LeflTower( W.). Amenophis II. seizing fettered enemies by the
hair and smiting tliem with his club; before him is Amon (inserted later
by Sethos I.). Hight Tower (E.). A similar scene. — On the Door Jambs
are inscripticms of Thutmosis 11. (left; originally Hatshepsut) and Thut-
mosis III. (right). — Leaning against the right door-post is a red granite
stele, unfortunately much damaged, recording the Asiatic campaigns of
Ameno)ilus II. — On the E. side of the right tower are reliefs and in-
scriptions of high-priests of Amon in the reign of Sethos II.
Four colossal seated figures of kings were originally placed before
the S. side of this pylon, the best-preserved of which is that of
Amenophis I. (to the W. ; of limestone). The two figures of Thut-
mosis II. retain their lower part only ; the one to the W. is of reddish-
brown silicious sandstone and bears an inscription on the back record-
ing that Thutmosis III. restored it in the 4'2nd year of his reign.
The following Pylon IX, built by King Haremheb, partly with
the remains of a temple of Amenophis IV., has collapsed.
Baeukkkr's Egypt. 7th Edit. 18
280 Route 20. THEBES (E. BANKl. 2. Karnak.
Between Pylons IX and X lies a square court, surrounded by a
wall, -which is interrupted on the left (E.) side by the ruins of a
small Temple or Amenophis II.
In front of the temple is a Oallery, borne by 14 square pillars embel-
lished with reliefs. Thence a granite portal admits us to a large Hall, the
roof of which rested on 16 square pillars with concave cornices at the top.
On the four sides of each pillar appears Amenophis II. before some deity.
This hall is flanked by smaller chambers, two of which have pillars
like those of the main hall. Most of the sculptures on the walls and
pillars are executed in fine low relief, only a few being in sunk relief.
Much of the colouring is in good preservation.
On the E. Walt of the court are several important reliefs of
Haremheb. At PL d the king conducts to the Theban triad captives
with costly gifts from the incense-yielding land of Punt, while at
PI. e he appears with fettered Syrian captives.
On the outside of the wall, behind PI. «, is a procession of priests
carrying the sacred boats. Beside it is an inscription of the time of the
high-priest Pinotem II., recording the appointment of a priest in deference
to an oracle of Amon.
The reliefs on the W. Watt of the court, which also date from
Haremheb, are in poor preservation.
Pylon X, which formed the S. entrance to the precincts of the
great temple of Amon from the end of the 18th Dynasty onwards,
was likewise built by Haremheb, who used the stones of a temple
raised by Amenophis IV. in Karnak to his new deity (p. 211). The
reliefs on the central granite doorway exhibit Haremheb sacrificing
and performing other religious rites. — In front of the N. side of the
pylon stand two headless statues of Ramses II., of fine-grained lime-
stone (that to the W. adjoined by a figure of his wife). Here is
also a large stele with a manifesto of Haremheb, intended to restore
order to the distracted state. In front of the S. side of the pylon
are the remains of colossal statues of Amenophis III. (E.) and
Haremheb (W.) and the lower part of a colossus of Osiris.
From Pylon X the East Avenue of Sphinxes, erected by Haremheb,
leads to a Oate in the girdle-wall of the South Temple Precincts,
built by Ptolemy II. Philadelphus and embellished with reliefs and
long inscriptions. On the E. side of this road is a Chapel of Osiris-
Plah (closed), with well-preserved painted reliefs; the chapel was
built by the Ethiopian Kings Tanutamun and Taharka (25th Dyn.).
From the gate we proceed amidst figures of recumbent rams,
sphinxes, and fragments of statues to the —
Temple of Mut, built by Amenophis III.
A Gateteay (PI. A) admits us to a large Court, in the middle of which
was a colonnade. Outside the gateway are pillars with figures of the god
Bes. On the gateway are lengthy inscriptions of the Ptolemaic period
(hymns to Mut) and an inscription of Ramses III., who restored the temple.
The court contains numerous seated figures of the lion-headed goddess
Sekhmet, dedicated by Amenophis III. On several of these Shoshenk I.
has placed his own name in place of that of Amenophis. — Farther on
is a second Colonnaded Court, with statues of Sekhmet and a black granite
figure of Amenophis III. — The inner rooms, which are likewise adjoined
by statues of Sekhmet, are in a very ruinous condition.
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2. Knrnak. THEBES (E. BANK! 90. Route. 281
Behind the temple of Mut lies a Sacred Lake, Farther to the AV.
are the remains of a small Temple of Ramsks III.
On the TV. Exterior Wall are representations of scenes from the king's
campaigns: 1. Battle in Syria; 2. Syrian captives brought before the king;
adjoining, heaps of hands cut off fmm the enemy are being counted;
3. Battle with the Libyans; 4. Triumphal procession of the king, and
train of Libyan captives; 5. The king inspecting the captives; 6. Train ol'
captives; 7. Dedication of the spoil. to the Theban triad.
KxcoRsioN TO MedamBt (3-4 hrs. there and back), strongly recom-
mended if time permits. The site is reached after l-l'/4 hr.'s riding on
donkey-back. We take the road to Earnak (p. 262), diverge from it to the
E. at the Temple of Jlut, and then follow the railway -embankment to-
wards the N. [Or we may traverse the village of Kariiak and then go to
the E. towards the railway.) Beyond kilometre-stone 667 we turn to the
E. and soon reach the village of Medamui, situated amid palms.
The Temple of Medamut, dedicated to the war-god ilont, was situated
in the N. suburb of Thebes, called J/f(u. The erection of this temple dates
from the time of the Ptolemies. The W. approach to the temple was formed
by a Pylon (now in ruins), which incorporated older blocks of the time
of Sethos I. and Ramses U. To the W. of that is a kind of terrace, similar
to that at Karnak and formerly bearing two obelisks. On the pave-
ment are drawings of feet and demotic inscriptions left by visitors to
the temple. Five columns of the Inner Chambers are still standing. In
the middle are two columns with calyx- capitals (of several pieces), between
which is a door. The other three "are clustered papyrus - columns with
bud- capitals. There is also a red granite pillar, with Amenophis II.
sacrificing to the falcon-headed 5Iont.
B. THE WEST BANK AT THEBES.
Donkeys and Carnages fp. 252) had better be ordered the night before
to be in readiness on the W. bank. — An early start should be made
l.uncheon-baskets, etc., comp. p. 252. Close lo the temple of Deir el-Bahri
lies Cook's rest-house (p. 299). Ferry-boats ply from the chief hotels at
Lu.xor to the W. bank (p. 252).
On the West Bank lay the Necropolis, or City of the Dead, and
also a large number of temples. t These latter, dating mostly from
the New Empire, were dedicated to Amon, the principal deity of
Thebes, and were used also in the worship of deceased kings. They
■were adjoined by dwellings for the priests, libraries, and sometimes
schools. In the vicinity were groves and lakes, besides granaries,
stables for the sacrificial animals, barracks for the guards, prisons,
etc. Close by lay the villages of the numerous workmen who found
employment in connection with the cemeteries : masons, painters,
builders, and above all embalmers, to whose care the bodies were
committed. Gradually a whole city arose here, like the quarters beside
the tombs of the Mamelukes at Cairo. Under the New Empire its
management was placed in the hands of a special official, known as
'prince of the West and general of the soldiers of the Necropolis'.
T The longer axes of these temples lie from S.E. to N.W., but in con-
formity with the system mentioned in the foot-note to p. 264 the text speaks
of them as if they lav from N. to S.
18*
282 Route 20. THEBES ( W. BANK). .?. Knrna.
3. The Temple of Sethos I. at Kurna.
From the landing-place of the ferry-boat on the W. bank we
ride first in a southerly direction, then pass between the hamlets of
Naga' er-Rizkeh and Naga' el-Ba'irat to the Fadiliyeh Canal, which
we cross to the N. at Naga' et-T6d, where a light railway (for con-
veying sugar-cane) approaches it. In about 2/4 hr. we reach the —
*Temple of Sethos I., which was founded in honour of Amon
by Sethos I., and at the same time was devoted to the worship of
the king and of his father, Ramses 1. Sethos left it unfinished and
Ramses II. 'renewed' it, i.e. embellished it with reliefs and inscrip-
tions. The beautiful execution of these recalls the contemporary
sculptures at Abydos (p. 238). The original building was 518 ft. in
length , but of this only the actual sanctuary with its halls and
chambers, 154 ft. in depth, remains, while there are but scanty
relics of the former courts and pylons.
The Colonnade on the front of the temple originally displayed
10 clustered papyrus-columns with bud-capitals, but only 8 are now
left. On the architrave is the dedicatory inscription of Ramses II. In
its inner wall are three doors (PL a, 6, c), which lead into the three
divisions of the temple. On this wall, to the left of Pi. 6, are repre-
sentations of the provinces of Upper Egypt (a man and woman alter-
nately), bearing dedicatory gifts ; to the right, similar reliefs of the
provinces of Lower Egypt. The former have lilies on their heads,
the latter papyri — the floral emblems of the two regions. Above
the former the king offers incense to the bark of Amon carried by
priests; above the latter the king appears before various deities.
Passing through the middle door (PI. h) we enter a Hypostyle
Hall with 6 papyrus-bnd columns, flanked on each side by three
chambers (PI. d-«). On the slabs of the roof of the middle aisle appear
the winged sun-disk, flying vultures, and the names of Sethos I.,
between two vertical rows of hieroglyphics. The low reliefs on the
walls show Sethos I. and Ramses II. sacrificing to various deities.
Those at PI. a and at PI. p represent respectively Mut and Hathor of
Dendera nourishing Sethos. — Side Chambers. Chamber g is ruined;
the ceilings in Chambers d, f, and h are in good condition. The
finely executed reliefs in Chambers c, f, h, and i depict Sethos I.
offering sacrifices or performing sacred ceremonies in presence of
various deities. In Chamber i: on the left wall, Thout before the
sacred bark of the king; on the right wall, (left) the king seated at
the banquet with the goddess of the temple behind him, and (right)
the king in priestly vestments performing ceremonies before him-
self; on the rear wall, the king as the god Osiris, seated in a chapel,
surrounded by other gods. In Chamber d are sunk reliefs of Ram-
ses II., showing (right) the king pacing off the temple (comp. p. 306)
before Amon and Amunet, and (left) the king burning incense
Hu i
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Cham be rs
|- Second (de- stroyedl Pylon
3. Kurna. THEBES (^W. BANK). 20. Koule. 283
before Anion, Khons, and Mut. — On the right and left walls
of the Sanctuary Sethos appears offering incense before the boat
of Anion.
AVe now turn to the Right DrvisioN of the temple, which is in a
very ruinous condition. It consisted of the large Court of the Altar
(Hall of Ramses II.) and of several rooms adjoining it. The sunk
reliefs of Kamses 11. sacrificing to various gods are inferior to those
of the central building and left-hand portion of the sanctuary.
We come out to the colonnade through Door c, and enter through
Door a to visit the LeftDivisiox of the temple. In the small Chapel
of Ramses I. (borne by two papyrus-bud columns) are high reliefs,
which were probably usurped' by Ramses II. : to the right the king
kneeling before Amon, Khons, and the deified Sethos, while be-
hind him is Mut. — Adjoining are three Chambers (PI. .'1, B, C).
On the side-walls of the central chamber (PI. A~) Sethos I. offers
incense to the boat of Amon and anoints his father Ramses I.
with his linger. On the rear wall is a double door-shaped stele to
Ramses I., with a representation of the Osiris-coftln of the king, on
which Isis is seated in the form of a falcon. The two other rooms
(PI. B and C) were built by Ramses II. and contain rather rude
reliefs (the king before the gods). — A side-door (Pi. /) leads from
the chapel of Ramses I. to a narrow Corridor, the left wall of which
is now represented only by the lowest courses of masonry. Thence
we enter (to the right) Room 7), with sunk reliefs dating from Ram-
ses II., showing that king and his father Sethos sacrificing before
various deities and performing other sacred rites. — A small Door
(PI. m) leads out of the corridor back into the colonnade.
To the N., among the spurs of the Libyan mountains, lies the Necro-
polis of Drah Abu'l Negga, one of the oldest cemeteries of Thebes. The
treasures discovered here by Mariette's excavations were of extraordinary
value (comp. p. &8). Tombs of the 11th, 13th, and 17th Dynasties were
found , but they have all been destroyed. The Rock Tombs on the hill-
slope of Drah Abu'l Negga, dating from the time of the New Empire,
are comparatively uninteresting (opened by the keeper; small fee). Those
most worthy of inspection are; No. 11. Tomh of Thuti, a prince and pre-
sident of the treasury, with long inscriptions; from this tomb a long pas-
sage in the rock leads to the next one (No. 12), on the left side-wall of
which funeral scenes are depicted. No. 13. Tomb of Shuroi, adorned with
beautiful funeral scenes. No. 17. Tomb of Xeb-Amun, chief physician and
secretary of Amem.phis III. ; on the right half of the back-wall of the
vestibule are interesting repre-sentations of Asiatics ; the beautiful ceiling-
ornamentation also should be noticed. No. 19. Tomb of Amenmose, the high-
priest of King Amenophis I.; on the end-wall to the left are seen the
funeral procession and the burial ceremonies; on the right side of the
hack-wall the sacred boat, containing the image of the deified king Araeno-
l>his 1., is being carried out of the temple of which the deceased was
high-priest. Similar scenes are depicted on the other walls. No. 20. Tomb
of Mentu-her-khopshef, royal fan-bearer, with representations of the funeral.
No. 24. Tomb of Neb-Amun, president of the royal chancery in the time of
Thntmosis III., with tasteful stucco reliefs (funeral scenes, fields of the
blessed, banquet). No. 148. Tomb of Amenemopel. a high-priest in the time
of Bamses II. , with colossal statues and good reliefs representing the
deceased and his relatives.
284: Route 20. THEBKS (W. BANK). 4. Bibdnd-Muluk:
4. Blb&n el-HuMk. Tombs of the Kings.
The TouBs of thb Kings at BJban el-MulCk belong to the 18-20th Dyn-
asties, and, in contrast to the pyramids that mark the graves of kings up
to the beginning of the New Empire, consist of a series of passages and
chambers hewn in the rock. Like the corridors within the pyramids they
were intended only for the reception of the sarcophagus ; the temples
dedicated to the manes of the deceased, in which the offerings to the dead
were made, were built in the plain.
The Stsucture of the tombs is practically the same in all. T/iree
Corridors, placed one beyond the other, led into the innermost recesses.
Small side -chambers sometimes opened off the first corridor, and re-
cesses for the reception of the furniture of the dead were provided in
the second and third. The third corridor led into an Anteroom, beyond
which lay the Afain Sail, where, in a hollow in the floor, the heavy
granite sarcophagus was deposited. The main hall, the roof of which was
frequently supported by pillars, was often adjoined by other chambers.
The Walls of the tombs, from the entrance to the final chamber,
were covered with sacred pictures and texts, a knowledge of which was
essential for the deceased in the future life. The prevailing conception
at Biban el-Muliik was that the deceased king, as companion of the sun-
god (or rather absorbed in the sun-god), sailed through the underworld
at night in a boat ; thus those scenes and texts were preferred which de-
scribed this voyage and instrncted the deceased as to the exact route. These
texts were chiefly taken from two books closely related to each other.
One was called ^T/ie Book of him who is in the UnderworldC . According to
this, the underworld (Twet; p. cxlviii) is divided into 12 regions ('Caverns'),
corresponding to the 12 hours of night ; and the descriptions in the
book were therefore likewise in 12 chapters. In each of these the
river bearing the boat of the sun is represented in the middle; in the
boat stands the ram-headed sun -god, surrounded by his retinue, and
bringing for a short time light and life to the regions he traverses.
Above and below are shown the two banks of the river, thronged by all
manner of spirits, daemons, and monsters, which greet the sun and ward
off his enemies.
The second book, known as the ''Book of the Oates\ reproduces the
same conceptions. The nocturnal journey of the sun through the 12 re-
gions of the underworld is again represented. Massive gates or pylons,
guarded by gigantic serpents, separate one region from another 5 each
serpent bears a name known to the sun-god, and the deceased must know
it also. Two gods and two fire -spitting snakes guard the approach and
greet the sun-god.
A third work, which may be called Tfte Sun''s Journey in the Under-
worlcT, contains still more gloomy and unattractive representations. The
sun-god has arrived in the underworld and addresses a speech to the
spirits and monsters, which are carefully depicted in long rows.
Recourse was had to other works also for the decoration of the kings'
tombs. The chief of these were the '■Praising of Re' and '•The Book of
the Opening of the Mouth\ The former, which was used in the first cor-
ridors, contains a long-winded hymn to the sun-god, to be recited in the
evening as the sun entered the underworld. In the course of the hymn
the god is invoked under 75 different names and is depicted in as many
forms. — The text and illustrations in the second of these works teach
the multifarious ceremonies which had to be performed before the statue
of the deceased king in order to ensure it the use of its organs, so as to
enable it to eat and drink in the tomb.
Strabo tells of 40 tombs 'worthy of a visit', the scholars of the French
Expedition mention 11, while at present 60 are known, but only 16 of
these are accessible. Pausanias, j'Elian, Heliodorus, Ammianus Marcellinus,
and other ancient authors refer to them as the Syringes (au'piyyE?) of
Thebes, from the resemblance of the long corridors to the reeds of a
Tombs of the Kiuys. THEBES (W. BANK). iH). Route. 285
shepherd's pipe. The name occurs also in the Greek inscriptions within
the tombs.
There are two routes from the Temple of Sethos at Kurna (p. 282)
to Biban el-Muluk (a donkey-ride of 3/4 hr.). The lower of these is
described below. The mountain - track via El-Asasif and Deir
el-Bahri is better followed on the return (comp. p. 299).
The well-kept lower route leaves the necropolis of Drah Abu'l
Negga (p. 283) to the left, and winds, first to the N.W., then to the
W., up the southernmost of two desert-valleys known as the Wddiyein
('the two valleys'). The gorge gradually contracts, betwetn walls of
naked yellowish rock on which the midday sun pours its perpendic-
ular rays, and a gloomy solitude broods over the scene, which is of
a sublimity unmatched elsewhere in the Nile valley. Signs of life
are rare ; a desert-plant waves here and there ; jackals, wolves, eagles,
falcons, owls, bats, snakes, flies, and wasps are practically the only
inhabitants of the gorge.
After riding for about 2/4 hr. through the valley we reach
a place where the road divides. The right branch leads to the
seldomer visited W. Tombs of the Kings (p. 298). The left branch
leads to the —
Bib&n el-Mulflk proper. We dismount at a wooden barrier near
Tombs 6 and 7.
The most important tombs (Nos. 6, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17, <t 35) are lighteil
up by electricity daily (9-1) from Nov. 15th to March I5th. After the visit
to Tomb 11 we should proceed to Tomb 35. Hurried or fatigued travellers
may content themselves with the tombs of Ramses VI. (9), Amcnephthes (8),
Amenophis II. (35), and Sethos I. (17), The other accessible tombs (un-
lighted) are Nos. 1-4, 14, 15, 19, 34, & 47, but they are of interest only
to specialists. Any other tombs than these may be visited only by ex-
press permission from the general inspector at Luxor. We describe the
tombs in numerical order.
The tombs occur both in the main valley and in its branches and
are made accessible by easy paths, which, unfortunately, somewhat
impair the imposing impression of solitude made by the valley. —
On the right (W.) side of the path: —
No. 1. Tomb of Ramses X., Yet-Amun. A Greek inscription proves
that it was known and accessible in Greek times.
No. 2. Tomb of Bamses IV. An ancient staircase, with an in-
clined plane in the centre, leads to the entrance. Above the door
are Isis and Nephthys worshipping the solar disk, in which stand
the ram-headed sun-god and a scarabaeus. On the right wall, behind
the door, are two Copts raising their hands in prayer ; an inscription
indicates one of these as 'Apa Ammonios, the martyr'.
To the left , in Corbidok I (comp. the Plan, p. 286) , appears the
king worshipping the falcon-headed sun-god Harakhte. The other walls
of this and the following Corbidob II are adorned with te.xts and figures
of the sun -god from the 'Praising of Re' (p. 284). Corbidob HI shows
texts and pictures of gods and spirits from the 'Sun's .Tourney in the
Underworld' (p. 284). — Anteeoom IV has te.xts from the Book of the
Dead (p. 284), the chief being the 125th chapter, which contains the justi-
fication of the deceased.
286 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 4. BlhCmel-MuLuk:
\I\'
m
EooM V, the maiu chamber, contains the Granite Sarcophagus of the
King, which is lOVz ft- long, 7 ft. broad, and 8 ft. high, and is adorned
with inscriptions and designs. On the Left Walls are shown the first two
chapters of the 'Book of the Gates' (p. 284). Chapter J
(beginning at the left of the entrance) shows the portal
guarded by the serpent Senekht, Next follows the first
region of the underworld. In the middle floats the boat,
in which the ram-headed sun-god stands beneath a canopy
with a coiled serpent above it ; before him kneels the
king, presenting to him an image of the goddess of truth.
Four inhabitants of the underworld tow the boat by a
cord, while various gods come to meet it. In the upper
row appear the blessed dead, while in the lower row are
the condemned, some lying on the ground dead, others
fettered, while the god Atum watches them, leaning on
his staff. Chapter II shows the gate of the second region,
guarded by the serpent Ekebi. In the middle appears
the boat of the sun-god, towed by S men; the cord passes
through a hollow beam with a bull's head at each end,
on which rest 7 small figures of gods, while 8 'bearers of
the gods' carry the beam on their shoulders. In the upper
row we see various gods in their dwellings, the doors of
which open as the sun-god approaches ; above them coils
a huge snake. Farther to the right gods peep forth from
a lake of fire. In the lower row, to the left, Atum leans
upon his staff; by spells he has rendered the snake
Apophis, the foe of the aun-god, innocuous, and it now
lies before him, watched by 9 gods, 'who ward off the
snake'. To the right are Atum and other gods.
JVo. 3, to the left of the path, is half-filled with
rubbish; it was originally intended for Ramses III.
^0, 4. Tomb of Ramses XII. , the last of the
Ivamessides. This tomb has no representations and
1/ is unfinished.
No. 5, farther on, to the left, is the entrance to
a corridor.
*No. 6. Tomb of Ramses IX., Nefer-ke-re
(lighted), approached by a flight of steps with an
inclined plane in the centre. On the staircase to
the right is an unfinished inscription of the king.
On the door-lintel is the disk, with the king on
both sides worshipping it. Behind the latter are
(1.) Isis and (r.) Nephthys.
CoEEiDOE 1 (comp. the Plan , p. 287). At the be-
ginning of the Left Wall is a chapel, beside which (PI. a)
the king stands before Harakhte and Osiris. Two doors
farther on admit to small chambers without decoration ;
over the doors is a text from the 'Praising of Re'. At
PI. 6 is a text from the 126th chapter of the 'Book of
the Dead' (p. 284), beneath which a priest, clad like
the god Hor-En-metf, pours the symbols for 'life', 'constancy', and 'wealth'
upon the king, who is clad like Osiris. On the Right Wall, at PI. c, we see
the king in a chapel before Amon and Merit-seger, a goddess of the dead.
Two doors here also admit to side-chambers. Over the doors and at PI. d
are representations of serpents and of spirits with the heads of dogs and
bulls. The text contains the beginning of the 'Sun's Journey in the Under-
world' (p. 284).
Tombs of the Kimj!<. THEBES (W. BANK). 20. Route. 2S1
CoBKiDOK 2. On the Left Wall, at PI. e, is a serpent rearing itself, to
the right of which and in the recess are figiires of the sun-god (from the
'Praising of Re'). Below the reeess is the king followed by Hathor. At
PI./ is a text from the 'Book of the Dead"; farther to the right the king,
over whom hovers a falcon, appears before the falcon -hcailod Khons-
Neferhotep. On the Right Wall, at PI. ff, is a ser-
pent; and at PI. h, daemons and spirits (frequently
enclosed in oval rings). On the Ceiling are stars.
CoKKiDOR 3. On the Left Wall is the course of
the sun during the second hour of night and the
beginning of the course during the third hour. On
the Right Wall, at PI. ;', the king presents an image
of Maat to Ptah, beside whom stands the goddess
Maat. Adjacent at PI. k is a representation of the
resurrection : the mummy of the king lies across a
mountain, with the arms raised above the head;
above are a scarabsrus and the sun-disk. At PI. /,
»», and 71 three rows of daemons are shown, one
above the other. In the top row are S suns, in each
of which is a black man standing upon bis head ;
in the central row are serpents pierced by arrows,
praying women standing upon mounds, and a scara-
biius in a boat, ending at stem and stern in ser-
pents' heads; in the lowest row are damons upon
serpents, also four men bent backwards, spitting out
scarabcei, etc.
Room 4. At PI. o a,nd p appear two priests, each
with a panther-skin and side -lock, sacrificing be-
fore a standard.
Room 5. This room, the ceiling of which is sup-
ported by four pillars, and then a passage lead down-
wards to Room 6, which contained the sarcophagus.
On the walls are gods and spirits. On the vaulted
ceiling are two figures of the goddess of the sky
(representing the morning and evening sky), beneath
whom are constellations, boats of the stars, etc.
Opposite, on the right side of the path, is No. 7, the Tomb of
Ramses II., filled up with ruhbish. This tomb was plundered in
antiquity. The mummy of Kaiiises II. was found in the shaft of
Delr el-Bahri and is now in the Cairo Museum (comp. pp. 93, 96).
*No. S, the Tomb of Amenephthes (Merenptah; lighted), lies in
a side-gorge, a little to the right of the path. Over the entrance are
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Isis and Nephtliys worshipping the sun-disk, in which are a scara-
bffius and the ram-headed sun-god.
Entrance Corbidoks. adorned with texts from the 'Book of the Praising
of Re', with figures of gods, and with scenes from the realm of the dead
(from the 'Book of the Gates'), lead down somewhat steeply to an Ante-
room (PI. 1), in which lies the granite lid of the outer sarcophagus. Farther
2SS Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK), t . B'tbrnieL-MuLak:
on steps descend into a Vaulted Cuaubbb (PI. 2), supported by pillars and
containing the *Lid of the Royal Sarcophagus, on wliich the figure of the
ruler rests as on a mattress. The lid, which, as usual, is in the form of
a cartouche (p. cxxvi), is beautifully executed in pink granite. The face is
very impressive when lighted up by electricity. The chambers adjoining
and behind the Vaulted Chamber are unimportant and inaccessible.
*]So. 9. Tomb of Kamses VI.,
Neb-ma-re (lighted). This tomb was
named by the French Expedition
La Tornbe de la Metempsycose, and
by British scholars, following the
traditions of the Romans, the Tomb
of Memnon, as Ramses VI. bore the
same praenomen as Amenophis III.
(p. t;ii), who was called Memnon by
the Greeks. The tomb, which was
originally intended for Ramses V., is
distinguished by the excellent pre-
servation of its coloured reliefs.
Three Corridors (PI. A, B, C) lead
to an Antkchambee (PI. D) and then on
to the First Pillared Room (PI. £),
with which the original construction of
Ramses V. ended. On the left walls
of these chambers appears the journey
of the sun through the realms of the dead
as related in the 'Book of the Gates'
(p. 'i84). On the walls to the right are
other texts and pictures relating to the
world beyond the tomb. On three pillars
in the Pillared Room is seen the king
sacrificing to the gods of the dead; the
ceiling is adorned with astronomical
tables. Two Corridors (PI. F, O), the
walls of which depict the subterranean
journey of the god of the sun, accord-
ing to the 'Book of him who is in the
Underworld', lead to a Second Vestibdlb
(PI. ff), the walls of which are covered
with inscriptions and scenes from the
'Book of the Dead'. The wall to the
left is occupied by chapter 125, which
deals with the justification of the de-
ceased before the judges of the dead.
Next comes the Second Pillared Room
(PI. /), still containing remnants of the
great granite sarcophagus. On the walls
are astronomical representations. On Ihe
right wall appears the boat of the sun,
in which the sun-god stands in the shape
of a beetle with a ram's head, and is
worshipped by two human-headed birds,
the souls of the sun-gods Khepre and
Atum. The boat is being drawn across
the heavens, which are supported by two lions, and descends to the left.
In the rear wall is a niche (PI. K). On the ceiling the goddess of the sky
appears twice, representing the sky by day and by night, with the hours. —
This tomb contains numerous Greek and Coptic inscriptions .
Tombs of the Kings. TUEBES (^W. BANK). '20. Route.
289
No. 10 is the Tomb of Ainen-ineses., one of the claimants of the
throne at the end of the 19th Dyn. (p. ciii). His mother Takhat
and his wife Beket-weier also were
buried here. The representations in
this tomb have been deliberately
destroyed.
'^'^No. 1 1 . Tomb of Ramses III.
(lighted). This imposing tomb, usu-
ally called 'Bruce's Tomb' (after its
discoverer) or '■The Harper's Toinb\
is inferior in size to Nos. 17 and 14
only. The execution of the sculp-
tures is not the best, but their variety
is exceptional. This tomb possesses
a unique peculiarity in the ten side-
chambers, opening off the first two
corridors. The tomb was begun and
finished as far as Room III by Seth-
nakht, father of Ramses III. ; his car-
touches are stUl to be seen at various
places where the later stucco has
fallen off.
The entrance is approached by
the usual flight of steps with an in-
clined plane in the middle; on each
side of it are two pilasters adorned
with cows' heads. On the lintel of
the door is the usual representation
of Isis and Nephthys worshipping
the sun-disk, in which are a scara-
bicus and the ram-headed sun-god.
CoERiDOK I. To the right and
left of the entrance are kneeling
figures of the goddess of truth,
sheltering those who enter with her
wings. On the Left Wall is the king
before Harakhte, followed by the
title of the 'Praising of lie", the sun
between a serpent, a crocodile, and
two gazelles' heads. Then follows
the text of the 'Praising of Ifo',
which is continued on the Right
Wall. — Side Chambek 1 (to the
left) : Baking , slaughtering , and
cooking scenes. — Side Chamber 2
(to the right): Two rows of ships, in the upper row with sails
set, in the lower row with sails furled.
290 Route 20. THEBES eW. BANK). 4. Bibdnel-MulCik:
Corridor II, with chambers on both sides. On both sides the
'Praising of Re is continued, with the appropriate llgures of tlie
sun-god (p. 284), who approach Isis on the left wall and Nephthys
on the right. — Side Chamber 3 (to the left). In the Upper Row
(beginning on the entrance-wall, to the left) we see a kneeling Nile-
god bestowing his gifts upon seven gods of fertility (with ears of
corn on their heads )j and (beginning on the entrance-wall, to the
light) a Nile-god before the serpent-headed goddess Napret ('corn'),
Ave Uraeus-snakes, clad with aprons, and two gods of fertility. In the
dilapidated LowJcrJioio, to the left, the Nile-god of Upper Egypt pre-
sents gifts to ten clothed Urai ; to the right, the Nile-god of Lower
Egypt before Napret and three Uraei. — Side Chamber 4 (to the
right) may be called the king's armoury, for its walls are covered
with representations of weapons, standards, armour, etc. On the
Entrance Walt the sacred black bull Meri stands on the 'southern
lake' (to the left) and the black cow Hesi upon the 'northern lake'
(to the right). On the Left Wall^ at the top : standards with pictures
of sacred animals, heads of the goddess llathor, etc. On the Rear
Wall, at the top, are arrows, bows, quivers. On the Right Wall,
at the top, are standards with gods' heads. The lower representations
have been destroyed. — Siue Chamber 5 (to the left). In the upper
row are various local deities (alternately hermaphroditic and female)
with offerings; in the lower row are kneeling Nile-gods. — Side
Chamber 6 (to the right) is the king's 'treasury'. On its walls are
depicted utensils and furniture of various kinds : vases, jars, bottles
(including so-called false-necked vases, such as were imported from
Greece), elephants' tusks, necklaces, and couches with head-rests
and ascended by steps. — Side Chamber 7 (to the left). On each
side of the Entrance the guardian spirit of the king is shown, bearing
a staff ending in a king's head. On the other walls are two rows of
representations of rowers with serpents and sacred cattle. The lower
row is much damaged. — In Side Chamber 8 (to the right) we see
the sacred fields, with ploughing, sowing, reaping, etc., going on;
the king sails by on a canal. — Side Chamber 9 (to the left). To
the left we see a harper singing to Enhuret and the falcon-headed
god of the sun. To the right is a similar representation in a very
mutilated condition. The text of the songs is inscribed on the entrance-
wall. — Side Chamber 10 (to the right). Twelve different forms
of Osiris.
Room HI represents the usual third corridor, the tomb here
having had to be deflected to the right in order to avoid the adjoining
tomb No. 10. On the Rear Wall is a goddess, representing the South,
raising a water-jar. The king appears on the other walls sacrificing
to various gods. — Corridor IV. The journey of the sun during the
4th hour (Left Wall) and 5th hour of night (Right Wall) is here
illustrated from the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld' (p. 284).
— Room V. Figures of gods.
Tomh.^ of the Kings. THEBES (W. BANK). SO. Route. 291
Room VI is a sloping passage with side-galleries supported by
four pillars on which is depicted tlie king liefore various gods. On
the Left Walls (beginning at the entrance-wall) is tlie sun's jour-
ney through the 4th division of the underworld (4th chapter of
the 'Book of the Gates' ; p. 2!^4). In the bottom row the represent-
atives of the four chief races of men known to the ancient Egyptians
(p. 293) should be noticed. On the Right Walls is the journey
through the 5th region of the underworld ('Book of the Gates').
— Room VII. Entrance Wall: to the right, the king led by the
god Thout and the falcon-headed llar-khentekhta'i; to the left, the
king presenting Osiris with an image of truth. Rear Wall: the
king (to right and left) in presence of Osiris. On the remaining
spaces are scenes from the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld'
(deities felling trees, etc. L
The other rooms, which are not lighted by electricity, are much
damaged and need detain the traveller but a short time. — Room X,
with pillars, contained the sarcophagus of the king (now in the
Louvre, the lid in the FitzwUliam Museum at Cambridge). The
mummy of the king, now at Cairo (p. 96), was found hidden at
Deir el-Bahri (comp. p. 93).
No. 12. Cave without inscriptions.
No. 13, very low, and largely filled up, was not a king's tomb,
but seems to have belonged to Ba'i, chief minister of King Siptah
(19th Dyn.).
No. Id, originally the Tomb of Queen Tewosret, wife of Siptah
(comp. p. 99), was afterwards appropriated and enlarged by Seth-
nakht, who caused the names and figures of the queen to be covered
with stucco.
No. 15. Tomb of Sethos 11. The first corridor of this tomb con-
tains good reliefs.
*No.l6. Tomb of Ramses I. (lighted). A wide flight of steps leads
to the entrance. Beyond this are a sloping corridor and a second
flight of steps (steep), which lead to the Sarcophagus Chambee.
In the middle stands the open coffin of the king, in red granite, with
pictures and texts in yellow paint. The walls of the room are covered
with coloured scenes and inscriptions on a grey ground.
/entrance Wall. To the left, Maat and Kamses I. before Ptah, behind
whom stanils the post of Osiris (p. cli). To the right, the goddess of
truth and the kinic offering wine to Nefertem ; behind the god is the
symbolic knot of Isis. — Left Wall. To the left of the door leading to
a small side-room: Ramses I. led by the dog-headed Anubis and the
falcon-headed Harsiesis. To the right of the door and above it: the 3rd
chapter of the 'Book of the Gates'. Beyond the gate guarded by the
serpent Zetbi we see the journey through the third region of the under-
world. In the middle the boat is being drawn by 4 men towards a long
chapel, in which lie the mummies of 9 gods. Tlien follow 12 goddesses,
representing the hours of the night; these, divided into two groups of
six, separated by a serpent, ascend a mountain, beneath which is a
pond, indicated by zigzag lines. — In the Rear Wall opens a small
chamber, on the back-wall of which is represented Osiris between a ram-
headed deity and a sacred snake. Abore the door are daemons with the
292 Route 20. THERES (W. RANK). 4. Blhanel-Afulftk .
heads of dogs and falcons (the souls of Pe and Nekhen). On the rear
wall, farther to the right: Ramses I. dedicates four packages to ihe
beetle- headed sun -god Atum-R«-Khepve;
\7\r 1 IlarsiePis, Atnm, and Neith conduct the
□ J 0 3 king to tlie throne of Osiris. — The Right
: Wall, pierced by the entrance to a small
unadorned chamber, is decorated with re-
presentations and hieroglyphic texts from
the second chapter of the 'Book of tlie Gates'
;j (_' -' cp. 284).
**iVo. / 7. Tomb Of Sethos I. (lighted),
usually known as BelzonVs Tomb from its
discoverer in Oct., 1817. The reliefs in
this tomb, which are extraordinarily well
preserved, far surpass all others at Biban
jY el-Muluk in beauty of execution and
even rival those at Abydos (p. 238). In
size it resembles Nos. 11 and 14; its
length is 328 ft. A flight of wooden
steps descends to the entrance.
Corridor I. On the Left Wall is the
king before the falcon-headed sun-god
Harakhte. Then follows the title of the
'Praising of Re' (p. 284), with the sun-
disk bearing a scarabaeus and the ram-
headed sun-god , between a serpent, a
crocodile , and two cows' heads. The
adjoining text is taken from the 'Prais-
ing of Ke', which is continued on the
Right Wall. The Ceiling is decorated
with hovering vultures.
Corridor II (with staircase). On
the upper part of the recess in the Left
Wall are represented 37 forms of the
sun-god, from the 'Praising of Pie'
(p. 284); below the recess is a text
from the 'Book of him who is in the
Underworld'. This is repeated on the
Right Wall. At PI. a is Isis, at PI. b,
Nephthys.
Corridor III. On the Left Wall
(PI. c) is the journey of the sun during
the 5th hour of night, from the 5th
chapter of the 'Book of him who is in
the Underworld'. On the Right Wall,
at PI. d, appears the journey of the sun
during the 4th hour of night, from the
4th chapter of the 'Book of him who is
in the Underworld'.
Tomhs of the Kings. THEBES (W. BANK). 20. lioiite. 293
Antechamber JV. Representations of the king in the presence
of various deities.
KooM V, with pillars. On the Left Walls is the .ionrney of the
sun through the 4th region of the underworld, from the 4th chapter
of the 'Book of the Gates'.
At the beginning is the 4th gateway, guarded by the serpent Teke-hor.
In the Middle Roto appears the boat of the sun towed by f6ur men, preceded
by spirits with a coiled snake, three ibis-headed gods, and nine other
gods ('the spirits of men who are in the underworld'). To the right is a
god with a sceptre. In the Top Roto various men greet the god, while
others hold a twisted cord. In the Bottom Row, to the left, is Horus,
before whom are representatives of the four chief races of men known
to the Egyptians, viz. four 'human beings' {i.e. Egyptians), four Asiatic,
with pointed beards and coloured aprons, four negroes, and four Libyans
identified by the feathers on their heads and tlieir tatooed bodies. Farther
on are genii, with a snake, on which stand the hieroglyphs for 'time', etc
On the Right Walls is the suns journey through the oth region
of the underworld, from the 5th chapter ol' the 'Book of the Gates'.
Middle Row: The boat of the sun towed by four men, preceded by
dffimons. Top Row: Twelve gods with forked sticks, twelve gods with a
serpent from which human heads project, and twelve gods with a twisted
cord attached to a mummy. Bottom Row: A god leaning upon a staff;
twelve mummies upon a bier formed of a serpent, etc.
In the centre of the Rear Wall is Osiris enthroned, with Hathor
behind him, while the falcon-headed Ilorus leads the king into his
presence. On the Pillars the king is shown before various deities.
A few steps lead hence to Koom VI, the decorations of which
have been sketched out only. On the Pillars the king stands in
front of various deities. On the Left Walls is the journey of the
sun during the 9th hour of night, from the 9th chapter of the
'Book of him who is in the Underworld'.
Middle Row: The boat of the sun, preceded by twelve star-gods with
oars; three sacred animals (cow, ram, bird with a human head); a
mummy standing upright, the guardian-deity of the sacrifices. Top Row :
Twelve genii crouching upon curious stands, and twelve women. Bottom
Kou! (partly destroyed): Serpents spitting lire ; men with sticks ; a mummy.
On the Rear Wall is the journey of the sun during the 10th
hour of night (from the 10th chapter of the same book), continued
on part of the right wall.
Middle Row: The boat of the sun, preceded by various deities, includ-
ing falcons upon a two-headed serpent with four legs; four spirits, hav-
ing sun-disks in place of heads, carrying arrows; four spirits with lances,
and tour with bows. Top Row: A god with a sceptre; scarabseus rolling
the hieroglyph for 'land' before it with its fore-legs ; the patron-goddesses
of Upper and Lower Egypt seated beside two erect serpents, bearing the
sun-disk; two godde-ses beside the hierojilyph for 'god', upon which rests
the sun-disk; goddesses with lions' heads and human heads, etc. Bottom
Kotc (partly destroyed): Horns leaning upon his .staff watches twelve con-
demned souls swimming in the waters of the underworld ; four goddesses
with serpents; head of the god Selh upon a sceptre.
On the Rigid Walls is the journey of the sun during the llth hour
of night (from the llth chapter of the same book).
Middle Row: Boat of the sun, preceded by twelve men with a serpent;
two serpents bearing on their backs the two Egyptian crowns, from
which beads rroject ; four goddesses. Top Rott : Two-headed god ; serpent
294 Route 20. THEBES (W. RANK). 4. Blban el-M%Mk:
(the god Atum), with four legs and two wings, held by a god (the soul of
Atum) standing behind; the constellation of the 'tortoise', in the shape of
a serpent on which a god sits; two-headed god; four goddesses, each
seated upon two serpents, etc. Lower Row. The condemned. The enemies
of the sun-god are being burned in curious furnaces, under the inspection
of the falcon-headed Horns (on the rij^ht); adjacent stand goddesses with
swords, breathing flames; in the last furnace, four corpses standing on
their heads; various deities.
We return to Room V, whence a flight of 18 steps , to the left,
descends through Corridors VII & VIII to Antechamber IX, where
the king is seen hefore Osiris, Isis, Harsiesis, Hathor, Anubis, and
other gods of the dead.
Hall X, whence an incline with steps at the side leads to the
muiiiray-shaft, consists of two portions — a front portion with pil-
lars and a rear portion with a vaulted ceiling. The scenes in the
former are taken from the 'Book of the (gates' (p. 284). — The
alabaster sarcophagus of the king, now in the Soane Museum in
London, stood in the rear portion of the hall ; the mummy, which
was hidden at Deir el-Bahri, is now in the Museum of Cairo (p. 96).
On the Left Wall here the king is shown offering a libation of wine
to Harakhte. Farther on the journey of the sun during the 1st hour
of night (^Ist chapter of the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld")
is represented in four rows.
In the two Middle Rows we see (above) the boat of the sun, adorned in
front with a rug and bearing the ram-headed sun-god, seven other gods,
and the 'mistress of the boat'. It is preceded by two goddesses of truth,
Osiris, the lion-headed Sekhmet, and other deities. Below in his boat is
the sun-god, in the form of a scarabffius, worshipped by two figures of
(•siris; in front are three serpents and several deities. In the Top and
Uoltom Rows (representing the banks of the river) are small square panels,
containing representations of spirits in human and animal shapes (e.g.
cynocephali, fiery serpents), which greet the god on his entrance into the
lower world or drive away his foes.
In a Recess at the end of the left wall is the dog-headed Anu-
bis, performing the ceremony of the 'Opening of the Mouth' before
Osiris (comp. p. 284). — On the Rear Wall is the journey of the
sun in the 2nd hour of night (2nd chapter of the 'Book of him
who is in the Underworld').
Middle Ro>". In the boat of the sun the sun-god is accompanied by
Isis and Neplithys, in the form of Urseus-serpents. In front of it are four
smialler boats, in one of which are three deities without arms, in the
second a crocodile with a human head upon its back, in the third (which
is decorated with two gods' heads) a sistrum, two goddesses, and a scara-
bffius, and in the fourth (similarly adorned) a god holding a large ostrich
feather, the symbol of justice, and the moon upon a head-rest. Top and
Bottom Rows. Various spirits and daemons to protect the sun-god.
On the RightWall is the sun's journey during the 3rd hour of night
(3rd chapter of the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld').
In the Middle Row is the boat of the sun, preceded by three smaller
boats. Four gods, with arms interlaced, approach to meet them. In the
Top and Bottom Roics spirits of various forms (a ram with a sword, five
dopmons with birds' heads, etc.) greet the procession.
On the vaulted Ceiling are some interesting astronomical figures,
lists of the so-called decani-stars, constellations, etc.
Tombs of the Kmg^. THEBES (W. BANK). f?0. Roule. 295
Side Room XI. Here is represented the gate of the underworld
and the sun's journey through the 3rd region (from the 'Book of the
Gates', p. 284). — Side Room XII. The interesting texts in this
room contain a very ancient myth of a rebellion of mankind against
the sun-god, their punishment, and the final rescue of the survivors.
The scene on the rear wall is an illustration from this myth : the
heavenly cow, supported by the god Show and other spirits, with
two boats of the sun floating on its body.
Side Room XIII (the sacrificial chamber) contains two pillars,
one of which has fallen. On the other appears the king before Ptah
and Osiris. Round the three main walls runs a bench, decorated with
a concave cornice ; the small pillars which originally supported it
have been destroyed. The representations upon it are almost entirely
obliterated. On the Entrance Wall (to the left) and the Left Wall
appears the sun's journey during the 7th hour of night (from the
'Book of him who is in the Underworld').
Middle Bow. The sun-god once more is shown in his boat, on the
pi-ow of which stands Isis, to drive away evil spirits with her spells. In
front of the boat a large serpent has been overcome by the goddess Selket
and a god. Farther on are four goddesses with swords, and the graves,
adorned with haman heads, of the gods Atum, Khepre, Re, and Osiris.
Top Row. Spirits and daemons ; human - headed serpent ; a god ('Flesh
of Osiris") seated upon a throne beneath a serpent; three foes of Osiris,
beheaded by a lion-headed god; a god holding a cord binding three foes
lying on the ground; three human -headed birds wearing crowns, etc.
Bottom Row. Horus, before whom are the twelve star -gods who con-
duct the sun at night; twelve star- goddesses approaching the grave of
Osiris, upon which a crocodile rests. The god's head projects from the
grave-mound.
On the Rear Wall is the sun's journey during the 8th hour of
night (from the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld').
Middle Row. The boat of the sun towed by eight men, preceded by
nine followers of Re, who are ropresented by the hieroglyph for 'follow",
with a head attached to it in front. Four rams (forms of the god Tenen)
head the procession. Top and Bottom Rows. Dwellings of deceased gods
and spirits, the doors of which open as the sun-god approaches, showing
the occupants restored to life. In each house in the top row are three
gods (first the nine gods of Heliopolis), in the bottom row snakes and
other spirits.
On the Entrance Wall (to the right) and Right M''all is the sun's
journey during the 6th hour of night (from the 'Book of him who is
in the Underworld').
Middle Row. The boat of the sun is here preceded by Thout with the
head of a cynocephalus (his sacred animal), holding in his hand an ibis
(also sacred to him), and by a goddess carrying the pupils of the eyes of
Horns. The remainder of the row is taken up by a house, in which stand
sixteen spirits together with the recumbent figure of the god Khepre, sur-
rounded by a serpent with five heads. Four of the sixteen spirits represent
the kings of Upper Egypt, four the kings of Lower Egypt, while the rest
are in the guise of mummies. In the Top and Bottom Roict are other spirits.
In the latter is a serpent, with the heads of the four genii of the dead upon
its back, also nine fiery serpents with swords, all intended to annihilate
the foes of the sun-god.
The second side-chamber on the right is unnumbered and has no
decorations. — Room XIV has no decorations and is inaccessible.
Bagdkker's Egypt. 7tb Edit. 19
296 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 4. Btbun el~MubU:
No. 18. Tomb of Ramses XI., Kheper-ma-re.
No. 19. Tomb of Mcntu-her-khopshef, a prince of the close of the
20th Dynasty. The inner part is filled with rubhish.
No. 20. Tomb of Queen Hatshepsut (p. 299), consisting of a
series of corridors, 700 ft. long and descending to a depth of 318 ft.,
has neither inscriptions nor reliefs. In the tomb-chamber were found
the sarcophagi of Queen Hatshepsut and her father Thutmosis I.,
which are now in the Museum of Cairo (p. 86).
No. 21 has no inscriptions.
Nos. 22-25 lie in the West Valley of the Tombs of the Kings
(p. 298).
Nos. 26-33 are insignificant.
No. 34. Tomb of Thutmosis III. This tomb is situated in
an abrupt and narrow rocky ravine, about 275 yds. to the S. of
the Tomb of Kamses HI. The entrance is reached by a steep flight
of steps.
A sloping corridor descends to a staircase (PI. i), with broad
niches to the right and left, beyond which another corridor leads to a
rectangular shaft (PI. 2), 16-20 ft. deep, probably intended as a pro-
tection against grave-robbers but now crossed by a foot-bridge. The
ceiling is adorned with white stars on a blue ground.
Farther on we enter a Room (PI. 3) borne by two unadorned
pillars. The ceiling is decorated with stars and the walls bear the
names of 741 different
gods and daemons. — In
the left corner of the rear
wall is a staircase lead-
ing to the Tomb Chamber
(PI. 4), which has the oval
form of a royal cartouche.
Two square pillars bear
the ceiling, with its yellow
stars on a blue gronnd.
The walls are covered
with excellently preserved
scenes and citations from
the 'Book of him who is in the Underworld'. The representations on
the pillars are of special interest. On one face of the first pillar
stands a long religious inscription; on the second face are Thut-
mosis III, and the Queen-Mother Eset in a boat (at the top), the
king suckled by his mother Eset in the form of a tree (below), and
the king followed by his wives Merit-re, Sat-yoh, and Nebt-khrow,
and the Princess Nefret-erew ; on the third face are daemons. The
second pillar has daemons and another long inscription. The Saeco-
PHAGUS is of red sandstone, and its scenes and inscriptions are
in red paint; it was empty when the tomb was opened, and the
mummy of the king was found at Deir el-Bahri (p. 305). The ob-
Tomh^ofthe Kln<p. THEBES (W. BANK). W. Route. 297
jects found in the four small adjoining rooms (PI. 5-8) are now in
the Museum of Cairo (p. 95).
'*No. 35. Tomb of Amenopliis II. (flighted). This tomb lies
about 200 yds. to the W. of the Tomb of Ramses III, Part of its
contents has been left on the spot (comp. p. 94). From the entrance
steep flights of steps and sloping corridors descend to a shaft (now
bridged; PI. 1), in the depth of which is the opening to a small
chamber (PI. 2), and on to a Room (PI. 3) the walls and two pillars
of which are quite unadorned. From the left rear corner of this
apartment a staircase descends to a sloping corridor and to a Room
(PI. 4) borne by six. pillars. At the back of this is a kind of
crypt. On the pillars
Amenophis II. is re-
presented before the
gods of the dead. The
blue ceiling is dotted
with yellow stars. The
walls, painted yellow
(probably in imitation
of a papyrus), bear
citations and scenes
from the 'Book of him
who is in tha Under-
world'. In the crypt
stands the sandstone
* Sarcophagus of the
king (effectively shown by electric light), containing a mummy-
shaped coffin with the body of Amenophis II., wrapped in its
shroud and still adorned with garlands. On each side of the main
room are two small chambers (PI. 5-8). In the first to the right
(PI. 6) He three mummies. The second to the right (PI. 6; inac-
cessible) contained nine royal mummies, placed here to conceal
them from grave -robbers. Among them were the mummies of
Thutmosis VI., Amenophis III. (18th Dyn.), Siptah, and ,Sethos II.
(19th Dyn.).
No. 36. Tomb of Me'i-her-peri, a fan-bearer (comp. p. 95),
without inscriptions.
No. 37 also has no inscriptions.
No. 38. Tomb of Thutmosis I. This is the earliest royal tomb
in the Valley of the Kings; it lies in the abrupt slope at the
end of the valley, between Tombs 14
and 15.
A steep flight of steps descends to a
Siiuare room (PI. 1), wheuce another (light
leads to the roughly hewn Tomb Chamber
(PI. 2), the ceiling of which was supported
t>y a column (now broken). The walls
were covered with painted stucco, but this
has disappeared, probably from the fact
t'--<fc_ji -M,^o.-.
19*
2,98 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 4. Bibdn el-Mulftk.
that the grave was sometimes under water. The handsome red sandstone
sarcophagus is adorned with representations of Isis (foot), Nephthys (head),
the gods of the dead (sides), and Nut, the goddess of Heaven (inside). —
To the left is another small room (PI. 3).
No. 39. Tomb of Amenophis 7. , unimportant.
Nos. 40 <^' 41 are without inscriptions.
No. 42, which may be the Tomb of Thutmosls II., is unimportant.
No. 43. Tomb of TImtmosis IV. This tomb is unfinished; two
of its chambers contain representations of the king in the presence
of different gods (comp. pp. 90, 94).
No. 44. Tomb of Tent-Karu, uninteresting.
No. 45. Tomb of Userhet, without interest.
No. 46. Tomb of Yue and Tu'e, the parents-in-law of Amen-
ophis III. This tomb, which lies between Tombs 3 and 4 and con-
tains no inscriptions, was discovered by Theodore M. Davis in
1905 ; its rich contents were transferred to the Museum at Cairo
(see p. 93).
No. 47. Tomb of King Siptali (19th Dyn.). This tomb contains
a few good scenes: the king before Re-Harakhte; the sun-disk
between two mountains ; Isis, Nephthys, and Anubis waiting upon
the body of Osiris.
No. 48. Tomb of the Vizier Amenemopet (18th Dyn.), without
inscriptions.
Nos, 49-54, without inscriptions.
No. 55. Tomb of Queen Teye, mother of Amenophis IV. This
tomb, which is without inscriptions, lies close to No. 6; Amen-
ophis IV. also was buried here.
No. 56, without inscriptions.
No. 57. Tomb of King Haremheb (comp. p. 96). Some of the
scenes on the walls are excellently executed. The tomb-chamber
still contains the sarcophagus.
Nos. 58-60 are without inscriptions.
The W, valley of Bib an el-Muluk (comp. p. 285), usually named
by the Arabs after Tomb 23 (see below), is seldom visited, in spite
of its scenic attractiveness.
The first tomb here (No. 22) is that of Amenophis III., found
by the savants of the French Expedition. We enter from the W. ;
the tomb soon bends towards the N., but finally resumes its original
direction.
The second tomb (No. 23), called by the Arabs Turbet el-Kurud
(Tomb of the Apes), is in a very retired spot. It belongs to King Eye
(p. 216).
Tombs No. 24 and No. 25 are without inscriptions.
TIM PL i @F S'lljR. iL-'SA\Hj^lJ
0 a
Recesses 2
Recesses
Hall of Amtnon
3 t^^i Altar ,Ji::.Chape\
Upper Terrace | "^
6 p " <i
d Jl.Coionnadej^
Hall
Granite
Door
Court)
., , Chapel oFAnubis
xVestibule y ^ \
t^ ""hi b""l' ''t
Hall -\ °'^
Recess
d c -ir—n .f"'"''^ — a
S.ColonnS.qe°i ^j l°t|.golonnade
Lower Terrace
30 i-O 50
5. Deir d-Bahri. THEBES (W. BANK). -JO. Route. 299
5. From Bib&n el-Multik to Deir el-Bahri and £1-Asasif.
To return from Biban el-Muluk to the plain we should take the moun-
tain-path via Deir el-Bahri. It is possible to ride to the top of the hill,
but walking all the way is preferable. — Another very pleasant route leads
from Biban el-3Iuluk up the steep hill and then, above Sheikh 'Abd el-
Kurna, descends to Deir el-3Iedineh (p. 316). — The morning or late after-
noon is the best time to visit the temple of Deir el-Bahri, for during the
hotter hours of the day the oppressive rays of the sun 'are reflected from
he rocks here with peculiar intensity.
The path begins at Tomb 16, ascends the hill separating Biban
el-Muluk from Deir el-Bahri and El-Asasif, and descends in zigzags.
It is fatiguing but safe, and is easily accomplished in ^/^ hr. The
*View is most remarkable: first we look into the desolate valley of
the Tombs of the Kings; then, from the summit and as we descend,
I we see the peculiarly shaped ravine of Deir el-Bahri, the steep
] projecting mountain-side with its tombs and buildings old and new,
t and the rich green of the fertile plain below, spread out on both
sides of the Nile, with its groups of palms and gigantic temples,
as far as Karnak and Luxor on the E. bank. The situation of the
temple of Deir el-Bahri is remarkably fine; on the W. and N. it is
framed by precipitous rocks of a light-brown and golden colour,
against which the dazzling white walls of the temple stand out in
magnificent relief. — Below the temple lies a rest-house open only
to Cook's tourists and to patrons of the hotels of the Upper Egypt
Hotel Company (p. 251).
The great Temple of Deir el-Bahri was built and adorned Avith
reliefs and Inscriptions by Queen Hatshepsut, the sister, wife, and
co-regent of Thutmosis III. Like the sanctuary of the 11th Dynasty
(p. 304) lying to the S. of it, it is constructed in terraces. The con-
struction of the temple shared the chequered fortunes of its found-
ress (p. cii). When Hatshepsut was expelled from the throne by
her brother and husband, after a brief reign, the building operations
came to a halt, and Thutmosis caused the names and figure of his
sister to be obliterated in all the finished sculptures and inscriptions
at Deir el-Bahri as well as elsewhere throughout the country.
Thutmosis II., who succeeded his brother, continued the work of
destruction by inserting his own name in place of that of Hatshepsut.
When Thutmosis II. died, however, Hatshepsut regained the throne
and the building was resumed. Operations were not carried on
with any remarkable activity, for when the queen's long reign came
to an end the temple was still unfinished. Thutmosis III., once
more on the throne, so far from supplying what was still wanting,
resumed his former tactics, destroying all allusions to his sister
and sometimes inserting his own name and figure in place of hers.
Amenophis IV. (p. 211) carefully destroyed all reference to Amon,
and the inscriptions and reliefs were left thus mutilated until the
reign of Ramses II., who restored them, though with inferior work-
manship. For centuries afterwards the temple remained unaltered;
but under Euergetes II. a few slight restorations were undertaken
300 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 6. Temple of
and some unimportant additions were made, without, however,
affecting the original plan. On the introduction of Christianity a
community of monks established themselves in the temple and
founded a convent, known to the Arabs as Deir el-Bahri, or the
'Northern Convent'. The chambers of the temple were converted into
chapels and the 'heathen' representations ou the walls were barbar-
ously defaced. — Mariette made a few excavations here, but finally
in 1894-96 the entire temple was exhumed at the cost of the Egypt
Exploration Fund under the skilful directions of M. Eduard Naville.
It should be noted that Hatshepsnt in her capacity as ruler of Egypt
is uniformly represented with the traditional attributes of kingship, viz.
the short apron and the beard, though these, of course, are properly
appropriate to men only.
The temple was dedicated to Anion; but the goddess Hathor
and Anubis, god of the dead, also had chapels here, and several
chambers were devoted to the worship of the queen, who was buried
at Biban el-Muluk (p. 296), and to that of her parents. The build-
ing occupies three terraces, rising one above the other from the
level ground; these are connected with each other by inclined planes,
which divide the whole into a N. half, to the right, and a S. half,
to the left. At the W. side of each terrace is a raised colonnade. The
stages were cut out of the E. slope of the mountain, and support was
given to the outer and inner walls by means of blocks of the finest
sandstone. The chambers devoted to religious rites were likewise
cut out of the rock.
An Avenue of Sphinxes led from the plain to the temple, ending
at the gateway (now almost totally destroyed) forming the entrance
to the temple-precincts. In front of the gate, in square enclosures
of masonry, stood two persea trees (Mimusops Schimperi), the stumps
of which are still extant.
We first enter the lower Terrace. This is in a very dilapidated
condition, though it has lately been restored. Each Colonnade con-
sisted of 22 columns arranged in a double row. The columns in
the back row were sixteen -sided, while the others were four-
sided in front and seven -sided behind. Little now remains of
the reliefs and inscriptions that once adorned the walls.
On the rear wall of the N. Colonnade., at PI. a, are traces of the re-
presentation of a pond, on which water-fowl are being caught with nets.
— On the rear wall of the <S. Colonnade (from right to left): PI. b. The
queen (figure chiselled out) sacrificing to the ithyphallic Amon; PI. <•.
Erection and dedication of the temple-obelisks; ships and soldiers hastening
to a festival; PI. d. Ships bringing two obelisks from the quarries of
Assuan to Thebes.
Below the S. colonnade are holes hewn in the rock, which were
formerly filled with Nile mud and used for plants. Remains of palms,
vines, and the like are still extant.
We now ascend the approach to the Central Terrace, ou the S.
side of which we can best observe the careful workmanship of the
retaining walls, intended to obviate any movement of the soil. They
consist of finely polished blocks of limestone, with simple but
Dcir el-r.ahri. TUEBES (W. BANK). W. Route. 301
effective ornamentation. Broad pilasters, only 8 inches in depth
and placed at wide intervals, project from the wall. Above each
are a gigantic falcon and serpent.
The W. side of the terrace Is bounded by two raised colonnades,
that to the right named the Birth Colonnade, that to the left the
Hunt Colonnade.
The Birth Colonnade contains 11 pairs of square pillars sup-
porting the roof. On all four sides of the pillars is the same scene :
Amon laying his hand in blessing upon the shoulder of Hatshep-
sut (figure defaced throughout) or Thutmosis III. The inscriptions
and representations on the walls of the colonnade refer to the pro-
creation and birth of the queen (PI. e). Among these are two fine
figures of the queen-mother Ahmes, once in presence of the ram-
headed Khnum and the frog-headed Heket, and once in presence of
the ibis-headed Thout. — Two steps at the N. end of this colonnade
descend to a Vestiuulb with 12 sixteen-sided columns. On the
walls are fine reliefs.
In the )S. Wall is a small Recess with represeatations of the queen (ef-
faced) before various deities; above appears the queen (again scratched
out) before Osiris. To the left of the recess is Anubis, behind whom
."itood the queea; to the right are Xekhbeyet and Harakhte, between
whom were the names of the queen. — In the N. }Vall is a similar Recess.
Above it is Thutmosis III. making a libation of wine to the falcon-headed
Soker, god of the dead; to the right, Anubis and the queen (scratched
out); to the left, the queen (scratched out) standing in a chapel before the
symbol nf Eme-wet. — On the IK. (rear) Wall, the queen (scratched out)
sacrificing to Amon (to the left) and to Anubis (.to the right), with the
sacrificial gifts heaped up before each god.
Three steps at the back of the vestibule lead to a Chapel of Anubis,
consisting of three chambers with vaulted ceilings. The colouring of
the bas-reliefs is admirably preserved, though the figure of the queen is
invariably scratched out. They represent Hatshepsut before various deities,
especially Anubis. Thutmosis III. occurs once on the E. wall of the second
chamber, pouring water before Soker.
On the N. side of the terrace is an unfinished Colonnadb, the
roof of which is supported by 15 sixteen-sided columns. Behind
it are four chambers (now walled up).
We now turn to the Colonnadb of Punt, on the S. side of the
W. terrace, exactly corresponding with the Birth Colonnade. The
*Scenes on the walls, some of which are unfortunately much dam-
aged, commemorate a trading expedition to Punt (p. 223), under-
taken during the queen's reign. On the <S. Walt we see a village
in Punt (PI. /■). The beehive huts are built over the water amongst
palms and incense-trees ; ladders lead up to the entrances. In the
lower row, to the right, is the reception of the Egyptian envoy
and his suite by the Prince of Punt; above, the envoy in front of
his tent, looking at the gifts that have been heaped upon him. —
On the W. Wall we see, to the left (PI. 9), the arrival of the
Egyptian fleet at Punt, where it is laden with precious merchan-
dize; to the right is the return of the fleet. Above are the Inhabitants
of Punt and the Egyptians with their gifts ; while prostrate grandees
302 Route -20. TUEBES (W. BANK). 5. Temple of
do homage to the queen. Farther on (PI. h) the queen (effaced),
followed by her guardian-spirit, dedicates to Amon the spoils of
the expedition ; the cattle feeding beneath the trees are especially
worthy of notice. At PI. i gold and other precious metals are being
weighed in presence of the goddess Seshet, who records the results ;
Horus presides at the scales, and behind him is the Nubian god
Tetun. Below we see the incense being measured, while Thout
notes down the results; close by are seven incense-trees in tubs,
imported from Punt. At PI. k Thutmosis III. offers incense to the
boat of Amon, which is borne by priests. At PI. I is Hatshepsut
be ore Amon (a long inscription between them has been erased).
— On the N. Wall, at PI. m, the queen (chiselled out) is seated
beneath a canopy, with her guardian-spirit behind her. In front
are her grandees, to whom she is speaking, and a long inscription.
At the left (S.) end of the Punt Colonnade is a Sheine of
Hathoe, goddess of the necropolis at Thebes (p. cl), which was
originally reached also from below by a flight of steps. The inner-
most chambers are preceded by two covered Colonnades (now in
ruins). The first of these had sixteen-sided columns and square
pillars with Hathor-capitals ; the second , which lies at a slightly
higher level, had round Hathor columns (three of them in partial
preservation) and also sixteen-sided columns (six partly remaining).
There are still a few Wall Decorations in the second colonnade. On the
N. Wall (PI. n): Thutmosis III. with an oar, in presence of a goddess;
to the right is a procession, consisting of three rows with two ships in
each and (below) soldiers with standards and axes (to the right two
soldiers dancing to castanets). — On the S. Wall (PI. o; much dilapidated):
Sacrificial scene, and a boat containing a Hathor-cow, with Queen Hat-
shepsut drinking from the udder. — On the W. Wall (to the right) :
Thutmosis II. (replacing Hatshepsut), with an oar and a builder's square,
before Hathor (whose figure was defaced by Amenophis IV.); the king,
whose hand is licked by the Hathor-cow. These are repeated to the left.
We ascend two steps to the Shrine proper, which comprised three
rock-hewn chambers (PI. A, B, C), each one step higher than its
predecessor and containing several recesses. The ceiling of Boom .4,
which is decorated with stars on a blue ground, is supported by two
sixteen-sided columns. The reliefs, which those who have leisure may
examine, show Hatshepsut (everywhere defaced) or Thutmosis III.
before various deities. — Room B contains *Wall Reliefs of unusual
beauty. They represent Hatshepsut (chiselled out) presenting offer-
ings of all kinds to the Hathor-cow, which stands in a boat beneath
a canopy. The traces of a second and smaller figure of the queen,
represented as imbibing milk from the udder of the cow, are still
visible. The little nude boy, holding a sistrum, in front of the queen,
is Ehi, son of Hathor. — Room C has a roof of parabolic vaulting.
On each of the side-walls is an admirable relief of Hatshepsut drink-
ing from the udder of the Hathor-cow, before which stands Amon
(on a smaller scale). Rear Wall: Hatshepsut between Hathor and
Amon, who holds the hieroglyph for 'life' to her nose. Above the
Deir d-Bahri. THEBES (W. BANK). 20. Rouie. 303
entrances to the recesses (PI. t, u) Hatshepsut and Thutmosis lH
offer milk and wine to Hatbor.
We return hence to the Central Terrace and ascend the inclined
approach which brings us first to a much ruined Hall, the roof of
which was borne by pillars and sixteen-sided columns. A granite
doorway here gives access to the —
Upper Terrace. The central part of the terrace was occupied by
a large Hypostyle Hall, now in a state of complete ruin. Its walls
were adorned with reliefs of a festal procession, which have suffered
severely at the hands of the Coptic monks. — Turning sharp to the
right (N.), we reach a door (PI. i) admitting to a Vestibule, which
had three sixteen -sided columns. Opposite the door is a small
Recess (PI. y ), with representations of Queen Hatshepsut, in good
preservation.
Kear Wall of the reces: Hatshepsut (erased) before Amon. Side
Walls: Hatshepsut seated at table, with a priest clad like the god Hor-
En-metf in front of her. The figure of the queen is uninjured, contrary to
the usual practice; but the priest's figure was defaced by Amenophis IV.
To the left of the vestibule we enter an open Court, in which is
an * Altar, approached by ten steps and dedicated by Hatshepsut to
the sun-godKe-Harakhte. This is one of the very few altars that have
come down to us from Egyptian antiquity on their original sites.
In the W. wall of this court is a small recess with sacrificial scenes
on the walls (the figure of Hatshepsut erased). — A door in the N.
wall of this court admits to a Chapel, comprising two chambers.
With a few unimportant exceptions the reliefs on the walls have
been chiselled away by Thutmosis III. and Amenophis IV.
On the side-walls of the 1ft Chamber (PI. V) Hatshepsut oilers sacri-
fices to various deities, mainly deities of the dead, such as Anubis, Soker,
Osiris, and Eme-wet, and also to Amon. Above a bench against the
end wall is a represent:i,tion of Hatshepsut and Thutmosis I. before the
symbol of Eme-wet. 2nd C/iamher. On the right wall: Thutmosis I. (ori-
ginally Hatshepsut) and his mother Seniseneb, sacrificing to Anubis. On
the left wall; Hatshepsut and her mother Ahmes sacrificing to Amon.
t)n the end-wall : Hatshepsut and Anubis. On the ceiling are represent-
ations of the stars.
On the S. side of the upper terrace are several chambers now in
ruins and a well-preserved Saceificial IL\ll, with a vaulted roof,
which was used for the cult of the manes of Hatshepsut and is
adorned with reliefs.
To the right and left of the entrance: slaughter and cutting up of the
sacrificial beasts. On the side-walls are shown three rows of priests and
officials bringing sacrificial gifts to Hatshepsut, and above are sacrificial
objects of various kinds. Hatshepsut herself (effaced) is seated with a list
of the offerings before her, while priests offer incense or perform other
rites. On the end wall is represented the door that led into the realm
of the dead.
In the W. wall of the large hall in the middle of the terrace is
a series of large and small Recesses, containing representations
of Thutmosis III. and Hatshepsut in presence of the gods. The
larger recesses were occupied by Osiris-statues of the queen. In the
304 Route 'JO. THEBES (W. BANK). 5. Delr el-Bahri.
middle is the entrance to the sanctuary. — In the left corner opens
the small Boom H, in the right corner the so-called Hall of Amon^
both of which may be omitted hy hurried visitors.
Room H. The ceiling is well preserved. Oa the right wall appears
Amon-Ke in front of a table of offerings, which replaces the effaced figure
of Hatshepsut. Behind the table is the queen's guardian-spirit. On the
rear wall are Thutmosis III. and Thutmosis I. (substituted for the queen)
making an off'ering of clothes to Amon. On the left wall Thutmosis II.
{substituted for the queen), with his guardian-spirit, ofl'ers sacred oil to
the ithyphallic Amon.
Hall op Amon. Part of the ceiling, decorated with stars on a blue
ground, still remains. On the left side-wall we observe Hatshepsut pacing
out the temple -precincts, before Amon, before the ithyphallic Amon-
Min, and before the enthroned Amon. On the right wall is Thutmosis III.
before these same gods. On the end-wall is Thutmosis U. (originally Hat-
shepsut) before Amon. The figures of the gods here were defaced by
Amenophis IV. and were not replaced at the restoration under Ramses II.
A granite Portal, reached by a porch dating from the 18th Dyn.,
with balustrades, forms the entrance to the Sanctuary. The three
chambers (PI. E, F, G) are unfortunately much damaged. The first
two have vaulted ceilings and are adjoined by recesses. The scenes
in the 1st Chamber (PI. E) show Hatshepsut (sometimes Thut-
mosis III.) sacrificing to various deities, among whom figures the
deceased Thutmosis II. The 3rd Boom was added under Euergetesll.
and was dedicated to the saints Imhotep and Amenhotep, who were
revered in the Ptolemaic period. The reliefs and inscriptions of this
late period compare very unfavourably with the masterly sculptures
of Hatshepsut.
On the upper part of the right wall of the ist Chamber is a noteworthy
scene: Hatshepsut, Thutmosis III., and the princess Ra-nofru sacrifice to
the boat of Amon, behind which stood Thutmosis I. with his consort
Ahmes, and their little daughter Bit-nofru. A similar scene was repre-
sented above the recess (PI. z) on the left wall; the kneeling Thutmosis III.
and Princess Ra-nofru may still be distinguished.
Immediately to the S., adjoining the temple of Hatshepsut, lies
a smaller temple dating from the beginning of the Middle Empire.
This is the Mortuary Temple of Kings Mentuhotep III. and IV.
(Neb-hepet-re and Neb-khru-re), begun by Mentuhotep UI., who
erected over his subterranean tomb (see p. 305) a terrace with col-
onnades and a pyramid, as well as tombs and chapels for the women
of his harem. The structure was extended and completed by his
successor Mentuhotep IV., who also chose to have his tomb here.
This is the earliest Theban temple known to us and it is of great
interest from the simplicity of its architecture. It was excavated by
the Egypt Exploration Fund in 1905-7. — Like the large temple
it is constructed in terraces. From the Court, bounded on the W.
side by two Colonnades with rectangular pillars (with the cartouche
of Neb-khru-re), an inclined plane leads to a higher Terrace, on
which stood the actual mortuary temple with the pyramid. Beyond
a vestibule which has almost completely disappeared, but which
formerly extended to the N. and S., lies the Main Chamber, a large
hall with 140 octagonal pillars. In the middle of the hall rose a
5. Deir el-Bjhri. THEBES (W. BANK). 2U. Route. 305
Pyramid, resting upon a substructure cased with fine limestone slabs.
In the W. wall of the hall were inserted the Sepulchral Chapels of
the Favourites of the Royal Harem. On the W. we next reach a Court
surrounded by colonnades. In the pavement of tliis court was the
entrance to a sloping passage 164 yds. long, leadiag to the sub-
terranean tomb-chamber of Mentuhotep IV. On the E. side of the
court are openings admitting to the shaft-tombs of the favourites.
A large Pillared Hall (only the bases of its 80 octagonal pillars
remain) and a Sanctuary (hewn in the rock) terminated the temple.
— To the N.W. of this building stood a Sanctuary of Hathor built
byThutmosisIIl.jOf which no trace remains. The shrine, constructed
in the rock and containing the image of the deity as a cow, is now
in the Museum of Cairo (p. 85).
Numerous very important discoveries have been made in the Valley
OF Deir el-Bahri. Thus, in 1881, the Roijal Mummies mentioned at p. 93
were found in a shaft a little to the S. of the mortuary temple, while
in 1891 a Common Tomb for Theban PriesU was discovered immediately
to the N. of the lower terrace (contents now in the Museums of Cairo
and Alexandria, pp. 90, 22). Here is situated also the subterranean Tomb
of Mentuhotep III. (sec p. 3()4). known to the Arabs as B&b el-Hosdn, which
was discovered by Mr. Carter in 19U0, but has been covered in again.
By proceeding from Deir el-Bahri in the direction of Kurna, we
soon reach the small depression known as El-Asasif. This contains
a large —
Necropolis, the rock-tombs in which date mostly from the be-
ginning of the Saite period (Soth and 26th Dyn.). Various brick
buildings are noticed also. The large arched gateway belonged to
a great mortuary chapel built by the Theban prince Ment-em-het
(26th Dyn.). The tombs usually consist of an open court, to which
a flight of steps descends and whence a door admits to a large hall,
beyond which are the inner passages and chambers.
Of especial interest is the Tomb of Ebe (No. 36), an ofticial in the reign
of Nitocris, daughter of Psaiiinietichos I., which contains reliets copied from
originals of the time of the Ancient Empire. A flijiht of steps leads into
the antechamber, where (he deceased is represented sitting at the table
of offerings and receiving sacrificial gifts. In the room adjoining this on
the right are tasteful reliefs of artisans and dancer. Farther on we come
to what was originally an open court with arcades at the sides; the reliefs
on the walls represent sacrificial scenes, among which one of a hunt
.should be noticed. The adjacent colonnade leads to several chambers
fartlier on. — AniOBg the other tombs of the same epoch may be men-
tioned the fine but much injured tomb oi Prince Harica (No. 37; inaccessible
at present), an official of t^ueen Amenertais, sister of the Ethiopian King
Shabako; the Tomb of Ment-em-hit (No. 34; inaccessible), a Theban prince
of the time of the Assyrian domination (2oth Dyn.); and the Tomb of
Peleamenopet (No. 33), a high official under the 26th Dyn. (comp. p. 329).
This last tomb is larger than any of the kings' tombs at Bihan el-Muluk,
being 287 yds. in length and 2710 sii. yds. in area. The carefully executed
inscriptions and reliefs, now unfortunately much injured and blackened,
refer almost without exception to the fate of the soul after death.
On the N. slope of the hill of Et-Khokha is the American House
(Arab. Beit Morgan), belonging to the expedition sent out by the
Metropolitan Museum of New York.
306 Eoute -20. THEBES (W. BANK). 6'. Rames$eum.
6. The Bamesseum.
This temple may be reached from the landing-place on the W. bank
in 3/4 !"■• '1 from the Colossi of Memnon in '/i lir. ; and from Medinet Habu
or Deir el-Bahri in 20 minutes.
The **Ramesseuin, the large mortuary temple built by Ram-
ses II. on the W. bank and dedicated to Amon, is unfortunately
only half preserved. We may in all probability identify it with the
^Tomb of Osymandyas described by the Augustan historian Dio-
dorus, 'Osymandyas' being regarded as a corrupt form of User-ma-rc,
the praenomen of Ramses II.
We begin our inspection at the great Pylon, the E. entrance to
the temple. This was originally 220 ft. broad, but its ruined ex-
terior now resembles a quarry. Many representations on the broad
surface of its W. Side, next the first court, are in fair preservation
and easily recognizable with an opera-glass (especially by afternoon-
light). They refer to the Syrian campaigns of Ramses II., notably
to the war with the Hittites (comp. p. 258).
On the XoKTH Tower, to the extreme Left, we observe the Asiatic
fortresses taken by Eamses in the 8th year of his reign. Thirteen of
the original eighteen are still recognizable, each with an inscription con-
taining its name. The captives are being led away. In the Middle are
scenes from the war with the Hittites, which are continued on the S.
tower. Below is the Egyptian army on the march ; above appears the
Egyptian camp, within a rampart of shields, presenting an animated scene.
The chariots are drawn up in long lines, with the unharnessed horses be-
side them; close by are the heavy baggage-waggons with their teams,
unperturbed by the great lion of the king, which reclines before him. The
asses employed in the commissariat service of the army are conspicuous
in the camp; now released from their burdens, they testify satisfaction by
means of movements and attitudes which the artist seems never tired of
drawing. The soldiers are conversing with each other, and one drinks
from a wine-skin. Disputes and quarrels are not wanting. Above, to the
right, the tranquillity of the camp is rudely disturbed by an attack of
the Hittites. To the Eight the king holds a council of war with his
princes. Beneath captured spies are being beaten.
The Left Half of the South Towek of the pylon is occupied by the
picture of the battle of Kadesh, which wa have already seen on the pylon
at Luxor (p. 258). Ramses in his chariot dashes against his foes, who are
either slain by his arrows or flee in wild confusion and fall into the
Orontes. Behind the king are other war-chariots. To the right, at a
distance from the scene of action, is the Hittite prince. Above is a second,
now scarcely distinguishable, representation of the Hittites fleeing to their
fortress. The reliefs on the Right Half show the usual presentment of
the king, grasping enemies by the hair and smiting them; farther to the
right is the king holding a long staff and accompanied by fan-bearers.
On the interior walls of the Portal of this pylon are the usual reliefs
of Ramses sacrificing to various gods. At the top of the Jambs fPl. a, i)
Ramses appears pacing out the precincts of the temple (a rite performed
at the foundation of a temple; comp. pp. 242, 283); at the bottom,
various deities.
The First Court is now utterly ruined, with nothing left but frag-
ments of the wall on the W. side, in front of which lie the remains
of a.* Colossus of Ramses II. The name of Ramses II. appears in
well-preserved hieroglyphics on the upper arms and on the seat of
the statue. The face is completely destroyed. The remains (breast
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fi. Rnrnt-xseum. THEBES (W. RAMK). 20. Route. 307
upper part of the arms, one foot, etc.) still testify to the care with
which this gigantic monument was chiselled and polished.
The length of the ear is 3'/:! f- . surface of face from ear to ear
OVs ft., surface of breast from shoulder to shoulder 23'/:! ft., from one
shoulder to the other in a straight line 22V2 ft., circumference of the arm
at the elbow 1772 ft., diameter of the arm between the elbow and shoulder
4V5ft., length of the index finger 3Vi ft., length of the nail on the middle
finger 7V2 inches, breadth of the foot across the toes 41/2 ft. The total height
seems to have been 572/5 ft., and its total weight ca. lUOO tons.
The head of another colossal Statue of Kavises IJ., found in ISIO, is
now in the British Museum.
The Second Court is entered through a gap in the wall to the
right of the colossus. It is in much better preservation than the
first court, and is mentioned with its caryatides in Diodorus's de-
scription of the tomb of Osymandyas. On all four sides were colon-
nades; those to the right and left (N. and S., almost wholly de-
stroyed) had two rows of papyrus-bud columns, while those on the
front (E.) and back (W.) had each one row of square pillars with
statues of Osiris, that on the back having also a row of papyrus
bud columns. The W. colonnade or vestibule is raised on a kind
of terrace. Four of the Osiris-pillars in front are still extant, and
also four at the back. On the shafts of the columns and the sides
of the pillars are representations of Ramses II. sacrificing to the
gods. The figures of Osiris, most of which are headless, likewise
represent Ramses II.
The part of the front wall which is still standing is now sup-
ported on the side next the court by modern brick buttresses. Upon
it are two rows of interesting reliefs, bearing traces of colouring and
easily distinguishable with the aid of an opera-glass. Those in the
Lower Row once more refer to the Hittite war and commemorate
Ramses II.'s great exploits at the Battle of Kadesh. The king (to
the left), much larger than the other warriors, dashes along in his
chariot. The Hittites, pierced by his arrows or trodden down by the
horses, fall in confused heaps; crowds of them are hurled into the
Orontes. Farther to the right appears the battlemented fortress of
Kadesh, round which the river flows. Beside it, on the other side
of the river, are Hittite troops that have had no share in the battle;
some of them hold out helping hands to their drowning comrades.
The Upper Row contains scenes from the Festival ofMin (the harvest-
god), which was celebrated when the king ascended the throne
(p. 325). To the left stands the king, awaiting the procession,
which is headed by priests carrying the images of the royal an-
cestors. Two tall poles erected in front of the king bear the god's
headdress. Adjacent are priests letting four birds fly, for the purpose
of carrying tidings to the four quarters of the globe that the Pharaoh
has attained the crown; to the right the king appears cutting a sheaf
with a sickle for presentation to the god.
This second court also contained colossal statues of the king.
Fragments of one of these (in black granite) lie upon the ground,
308 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 6. Ramesseum.
notably the head, which is well preserved except for the nose. On
the throne are the names of Ramses II., beside which Belzoni the
explorer (p, 126) has immortalized his own.
The Vestibule, situated on a terrace, was reached by three flights
of steps, of which that to the N. is in excellent preservation. Only
the S. part of the Rear Wall (PI. a) is still standing; on it are three
rows of bas-reliefs. In the bottom row are eleven sons of the king;
in the middle row, to the left, is the king conducted by Atum and
the falcon -headed Mont, who holds the hieroglyph for 'life' to the
king's nose; to the right is the king kneeling before the Theban
triad, while Thout, behind him, writes the king's name on a palm-
branch; in the top row the king is shown sacrificing to Ptah, to
the left, and offering incense to the ithyphallic Min and a goddess,
to the right.
Beyond this vestibule is the Great Hypostyle Hall, which had
three entrances and, like the great hall at Karnak (p. 268), a nave
of three aisles, which was higher than the side-aisles. The nave
has six couples of columns with calyx capitals and six couples with
bud-capitals. The latter were lower than the former, but upon
them rose a wall, with pillars and window-openings, to the height
of the others. Eleven columns of each kind still stand. Each of
the side-aisles had six couples of columns with bud-capitals; six
columns to the left are still erect. Part of the roofs of the nave
and the left aisle still remains. On the smooth shafts of the columns
appears Ramses II. sacrificing to the gods.
On the S. Half of the E. Wall (PI. o) the storming of the Hittite fort-
ress of Dapur is shown in the lower row. To the left is the Pharaoh dash-
ing in his chariot against the enemy, some of whom are slain, while the
rest, horse, foot, and chariots, betake themselves to flight. To the right
is the fortress, defended by the Hittites, while the Egyptians are attack-
ing it on scaling-ladders or push up to the walls under the protection of
storming-sbeds and shields. The sons of the Pharaoh, the names of whom
are given, distinguish themselves in the battle. — In the upper row are
several representations of the king sacrificing to the gods.
On the W. Wall, in the lower row (PI. 6, e), appear the sons of the
Pharaoh; in the upper row, above PI. 6, is the king before Amon and
Khons, with the lion-headed Sekhmet behind him, and above PI. c, the
king followed by a goddess, in presence of Amon and Mut.
The First Small Hypostyle Hall, with four couples of papyrus
bud columns, has a well-preserved roof decorated with astronomical
representations and pictures of the king before the gods.
The Reliefs on the walls are not uninteresting. On the E. Wall
(PI. rf, e) are priests bearing the sacred boats of Amon, Mut, and Khons,
each decorated with the head of its god. On the N. part of the W. Wall
(PI./) the king is seated beneath the sacred tree of Heliopolis, on the
leaves of which his names are being written by Atum (seated on a throne
to the left), the goddess Seshet, and Thout (to the right).
Of the following Second Small Hypostyle Hall only the N. (r.)
half, with four columns, remains. The sacrificial representations
here are of little interest; at PI. g the king is shown burning
Incense to Ptah and the lion-headed Sekhmet.
7. S!heikh '^\bd el-Knrnn. THEBES ( W. BANK). '20. Route. 309
Behind the Kamesseum, especially towards the N.W., are the remains
of a number of extensive lirick Buildings, some of which were erected in
the time of Ramses II., as we learn from the stamps on the bricks. Among
the rest are some well-constructed vaults, originally covered by a plat-
form. From the fragments of wine-jars and the stoppers found here we
may reasonably conclude that these were store-rooms in connection with
the temple. Adjacent is an altar, resembling that of Deir el-Bahri (p. 30ci).
— To the W., adjoining the brick vaults, are the ruins of a large rectangular
Hall, the ceiling of which was borne by 32 columns (the stumps of twelve
of tliem still remain).
About 500 paces to the N.E. of the Kamesseum we reach the Mortuary
Temple of Thutmosis III., protected by a modern enclosing wall. Its ancient
girdle- walls are partly hewn out of the rock and partly built of crude
bricks. The inner chambers are in a very dilapidated condition, but we
can still recognize traces of hypostyle halls, brick chambers, etc. Many of
the bricks bear the name of the royal builder. — Between the Ramesseum
and this temple of Thutmosis lay the Mortuary Temples of ATnenophis II.
(18th Dyn.) and Siptah (Ifth Pyn.), the scanty remains of which were
discovered by Flinders Petrie in 1896. — Farther to the K.E., not far from
Kurna, are the remains of the Mortuary Temple of Amenophis I.
To the S. of the Ramesseum were similar temples of Prince Wezmote
(18th Dyn.1, Thutmosis IV., Qu^en Tewosret (wife of Siptah; p. 291), and
King Amenephthes (Merenptah; p. 287), all of which were explored by Flin-
ders Petrie in 1896; but the remains of these are very scanty.
To the W. of tbe Ramesseum, on tlie way to Deir el-Medineh,
lies the Oerman House (Arab. Kasr Almdnyeh), erected hy Emperor
William II. as a lodging for the German savants at Thebes.
7. The Tombs of Sheikh 'Abd el-Eurna.
The Rock Tombs op Sheikh 'Abd el-Kuhxa, situated in the hill behind
the Ramesfeum, belong almost exclusively to high dignitaries of the
period of the 18th Dynasty. The majority consist of two parts: a wide
Hall or Vestibule, with a roof frequently borne by pillars or columns, and
a Corridor, ending in a recess in which the statnes of the deceased and
his favourite relatives were erected. Not unfrequently there is a small
chamber on each side of the corridor. In front of the tomb was a kind
of forecourt, where offerings were made to the dead. As the limestone
of the hill of Sheikh 'Abd el-Kurna is of poop quality, ill adapted for
sculpture, the walls of most of the tombs were covered with clay, then
whitewashed, and adorned with paintings. The representations on the
side-walls of the hall depict the deceased in his earthly circumstances
and duties, and thus shed a flood of light upon Egyptian life of the
New Empire in its heyday. The end-walls (to the right and left) of the
hall are, as a rule, shaped like huge grave-stones-, one usually bears
prayers for tbe dead, while on the other is recorded the biography of the
deceased. The representations on the walls of the corridors illustrate the
various funeral rites.
The more important tombs, which lie on the E. and N. sides of the
hill, have been enclosed within a wall; tliey are numbered and are
provided with doors, which are opened by the custodian. Some of the
tombs are not accessible to the general public, and to vi.sit these per-
mission must be obtained from the Inspector General at Luxor. — Some
of the tombs that contain no inscriptions are inhabited by the poorer
fellahin, while the forecourts serve for their livestock. In front of most
of these cave-dwellings stand covered cylinders like gigantic mushrooms,
of Nile mud and straw kneaded together. These are primitive granaries,
while their flat roofs serve as sleeping places.
If time is limited, it will be sufficient to visit the tombs of Rekhmere,
Sennofer, Amenemheb, Knne, Ramose, and Nakht.
310
Route 20.
THEBES (W. BANK). 7. The Tombs of
B H
I
u
From the Kamesseum we proceed to the W., in the direction of
the mountains, and soon reach a gateway by which the enclosnre
is entered. From the gateway paths lead to the various tombs.
Opposite the entrance lies the —
Tomb of Rekhmere (No. 100), a vizier under Thutmosis III. and
Amenophis II. It consists of a forecourt and a large chamber, from
the centre of which a long passage
of considerable and gradually in-
creasing height runs into the rock.
The Wall Decorations are much
faded and injured; among the best are
the following. Large Room (PI. A). On
the entrance-wall, to the left (PI. a),
Rekhmere (r.) receiving petitioners ;
people (1.) with tribute. On the rear
wall (PI. b) Rekhmere receives tribute
and gifts from foreign peoples, who
are arranged in 5 rows : 1. People of
Punt(p.'i23); 2. Princes of Keft (Crete)
and the Islands of the iEgean Sea,
bringing costly vases ; 3. Nubians, with
a panther, a giraffe, apes, gold, skins,
etc. ; 4. Syrians, with chariots, horses,
an elephant and a bear, and costly
vases; 5. People of the South, men,
~; women, and children. — Corridor(Pl.B).
"n„ On the left wall (from left to right):
— I 1. Rekhmere superintends the delivery
of tribute (corn, wine, cloth, etc.) at
the royal storehouses. 2. Rekhmere
m inspects the workmen placed under
him (carpenters, leather-workers, gold-
smiths, makers of vases); below are
the building of a pylon and the polishing of statues. 3. Funeral rites.
On the right wall (from left to right): 1. Rekhmere at table. 2 (above).
Offerings before the statues of the deceased; belov7 is the statue of Rekh-
mere in a boat, towed by men on the bank of the pond. 3. Banquet,
musicians, and singers. 4. Ships.
From this tomb we ascend the hill to the *Subterranean
Chambers of Sennofer (No. 96 B), a prince of the southern capital
(i.e. Thebes) and overseer of the gardens of Amon
under Amenophis II. These chambers are distin-
guished by the beauty and freshness of their paint-
ings. The upper chambers are uninteresting and
are now used as a magazine. A steep flight of steps
descends to a vestibule and to a room with four
pillars. The mural decorations all represent reli-
gious subjects.
Vestibdle (PI. A). The ceiling is adorned with
grapes and vine branches. On the left wall (a) sits
Sennofer (1.), to whom his daughter (partly destroyed)
and ten priests bring offerings. On the right vpall (b)
servants bring the funeral equipment, while his daughter stands behind ; to
the right is the deceased entering and quitting the tomb. On the rear wall,
to the right and left of the door (d and c), the deceased and his sister-lover
worshipping Osiris, who was represented above the door. — Room P> (with
Sheikh ^Abd el- lyurna. THEHES (W. BANK). 20. Roule. 311
pillars). The ceiling ia adorned with network paltern and vine briinclies;
the latter occur also in the wall-frie/e. Above the door lie two dogs
(Anubis); below and on the door-pii.sts are the usual prayers for the dead.
Un the entrance-wall, to the left (e), the deceased and hi-; sister iSIerit
appear emerging from the tomb and seated on a bench. On the left side-
wall (/) are depicted the funeral ceremonies, with the deceased himself
(left) looking on. On the rear wall (g) the deceased and his sister (de-
stroyed) sit at table, while priests offer the sacrifice for the dead ; farther
to the right are Iho ships Ihat take the corpse to Abydos (p. 237) and bring
it back to the grave. On the right side-wall (h) the deceased and Merit
are seen in an arbour, praying to Osiris and Anubis; in the middle, Auubis
by the bier of Osiris; other religious .scenes and texts; jiricst pouring the
water of purification over Sennofer and Merit. On the entrance-wall, to
the right (i), the same couple are seen at table, with a priest sacrificing.
Most of the [lillars also bear the same two figures.
We continue to ascend the hill to thf Tomb of Emunezeh
I (No. 84), a government official under Thntniosis IIJ. In the first
. chamber appear representatives of the South Eands aiul the North
^ Lands bringing tribute to the kinp;; in the second chamber is the
; deceased huntinir.
We next reach the Tomb of Amenemheb ( No. H5), an officer ot
the time of Thntmosis III., consisting of a hall -with pillars, a
corridor, and side-chambers.
Room A. On the wall to the left of the Entrance (a) Amenemheb super-
intends the distribution of bread and meat to his troops. On the pillars,
portraits of Amenemheb and his wife Bek. Above, between the two
central pillars (but on the farther side), hy»na-hunt. The tasteful designs
on the ceiling should be observed. On the rear wall, to the right (b), the
king was represented seated under a canopy, while in front of him stood
Amenembel), who described the part which he took in the Asiatic can)-
paigns of Thutmosis III., in a long inscription written in blue letters on
a white ground. Below this inscription, to the right,
I are seen Syrians, in their peculiar white garments
with coloured borders, bringing tribute.
! CoRRiuoR (PI. 1'.). On the left wall (c) is Amen-
emheb, receiving vases, caskets, sandals, sliields.
and other objects presented to him by the king for
the eiiuipment of his tomb. — Left Side Ciiambkk
\ (IM. C). Funeral rites. — Right Side Chamber (PI. D).
I On the left wall (d) are the deceased and his wife
'■ (etVaced) at table; on the right is a curious repre-
! sentation of an Egyptian party. There is an abundant
provision of food and drink. The servants in atten-
dance carry flowers on their arms. The guests, two
of them on easy chairs and three on stools, are offered
relreshiuents. Below, in the second row, the ladies
are seated. An attendant carries slaves wreathed and crowned with
flowers, and all the lady-guests have blossoms in their hair and round
their necks and hold lotus flowers in their hands. In the lowest row is a
band of music in full activity. It consists of two harpers (a man sitting and
a woman standing), a flute-player (a woman standing), and a lute-player
(a woman standing). On the rear wall (e) are fowling-scenes. — On the
left wall (/) in the continuati in of the CoKitiooR (I'l. Bi) are representations
of funeral rites ;ind sacrificial scenes. On the right wall (g) is Amen-
emheb's garden, with a fish-pond in the centre. To the left flowers are
being presented to the deceased and his wife.
Ascending the hill a little we come to the Tomb of Men-kheper-
re-seneb (No. 8(5), high-priest of Amoii. The only paintings are in
Bakdeker'.s Egypt. 7th Edit. 20
312 lioulei'O. TIIKr.KS(VV. BANK). 7. The Tomb^ of
tlie lirst cliainber. ()ii the, ci',tr:iiice-\vall, to the right, are carriagu-
buildevs airil lierds of cattle ; on the entrance-wall to the left, harvest
scenes; on the right end-wall, the deceased takes the trihnteofthe
Southlanders into his custody; on the wall to the right of the door
leading to the corridor, Asiatics bringing tribute, including a curious
goblet brought by a Kefti or Cretan.
Passing the tomb of Nekht-Min (No. 97), an overseer of granaries,
we ascend to the Tomb of Amenemhet (No. 82), who was scribe,
steward, and granary superintendent to the vizier User in the time
of Thutmosis III. In the lirst room of this tomb, on the left rear
wall, we see a woman playing the harp and other musicians at a
festival; in the corridor are burial-scenes.
We next reach the Tomb of Enne(No. 81), prince and overseer
of the granaries of Anion, who lloiirisheil at the beginning of the '
New Empire and had charge of building the tomb of Thutmosis I. ',
The arrangement of this toml) is somewhat unusual. The facade of :
the vestibule is formed by [)! liars. The representations depict the '
life of the deceased.
On the 1st Pillar (to the IcftJ are lishing-scenes : 2nil Pillar: Harvest- (
scenes (a wmnan gleaning; three men mowing); 3rd Pillar: Tillage;
6th Pillar: Enne at table; 6th Pillar: Enne's garden, with liis house and i
storehouse below, surrounded by a wall; 7th Pillar: Hunting-scene: a
hysena, struck by an arrow in the mouth, rears on its hind-legs while a dog
dashes at it; a hare, mountain-goats, gazelles. — Back Wall: to the right of
the door, peasants bringing tribute ; adjoining, Knne hunting in the marshes
and spearing fish. To the left of the door, P^nne receiving tribute (in the
upper row are dark-hrovvn Nubians, including two women carrying Iheir
children in baskets on their backs); Enne receiving the contributions of the
peasants (observe the lines to guide the artist's hand); Enne receiving
tribute (only two rows remain, in one of which are necklaces, in the other
incense is being wei:^hed). — Corridor. f>n thf left wall is the funeral, with
female mourners; next, the deceased in the Temple of Abydos (p. 237),
which is seen to the left; to the right, Enne and his wife seated at a table.
(Jn the right wall sacrifices are being made to the manes of Enne and his
wife. — In the Recess are four statues : one of the deceased, two of women,
and one of a man. The shaft in front of it has been tilled up.
From the tomb of Enne we ascend the hill to the highest row
of tombs, whicli are comparatively uninteresting, but there is a fine
*ViEw from the top, including the Ramesseum and the statues of
Memnon and extending across the Nile to the buildings of Luxor
and Karnak ; to the left are the hills, with the temple of Deir el-
Bahri at their feet.
Among the tombs in the highest mw, to the right above the tomb
of Enne, is the Tomb of Haremheb (No. 78), who was a general under
Thutmosis IV. — First Room. To the right and left of the entrance is a
banquet-scene with lute-players. On the rear wall, to the left, Haremhel)
presents to the king the contributions of the peasants; above, soldiers
are being recruited. On the right part of the rear wall the tribute froni
the Syrians and negroes is brought to the king. On the left wall of the
Corridor are shown the funeral rites and the voyage to Abydos; to the
right, hunting in the marshes.
Close by to the N. is the much mutilated Tomb of Zenen (No. 76), an
officer under Thutmosis III. and his successors; on the rear wall to the
right the deceased is seen bringing the representatives of the Asiatic
Sheikh 'A!'>l ei-KuriHi. TIIKI'.KS ( W. UANKj. ■JO.Rnnte. Bio
peoples, vvli'i liavi- ciiinc with Iribuli', into tlie presence of Thutiiiiisis IV.
This tomb is connected l>y abroach in',the wall with the Tombof Amenhotep
(No. 75), seccind prophet of Anion in the time of Thutnio.^is III. On the
wall to the left of the entrance, artisans working for the temple, and
surveyors. On the opposite wall, statues, harps, vessels, a pillared arcade,
and other gifts made to the temple of Araon; on the w;ill to the right
of the entrance, banquet of the dead; on the opposite wall, the deceased
is escorted to the temple of Anion at Karnak, the fajade of which (pylon
with Hag-stall's and statues) is represented to the right, and is here greeted
by his relatives, the priestesses of Amon.
We ascend to the ridge of the hill and then descend to the N. to the
Tomb of Zenen (No. 74), chief scribe of the soldiers umbr Thutmosis IV.
— First Room. On the rear wall, to the right, the king receives through
Zenen the trilmte of the Syrians; adjacent is the deceased inspecting tri-
bute brought to him (in the lower row are horses). To the left are the
king on his throne (obliterated) and Zenen inspecting the inarching of the
troops under his command.
To the N. of this tomb lies the Tomb of Senmut (No. 71), chief archi-
tect of Queen Hatshepsnt, in a very ruinous state. — We descend lo the —
Tomb of Menne (No. G9), land -steward and estate -inspector under
ibe IStb D.Nna.sty. <>n the entrance-wall to the right in the lirst room
the deceased and his wife are represented receiving sacrilicial gifts; their
relatives liring flowers and eatables. On tlic entrance wall to tlie left we
see the deceased superintending the labours of the lield in liis oflicial
capacity; at the toii a field is being measured with a ro|> • (the details
are very tine). < 'n the rear wall to the right, the deceas.-.d ami his relatives
at table. On the end-wall to the left, the deceased and his wife praying
to O.'iris. On the left wall in the second room are burial-scenes and
O.siris Judging the dead ; on the right wall the representations of the
ileceased hunting in the mar.5he.s are worthy of note. — Higher up on the
hill, to the N. above Wilkinson^s House, lies the Tomb of Enief-oker (No. 60),
the oldest on the hill, dating from the Middle Empire, with slucco-reliels
in the corridor (to the right, (ishing, hunting, handicraftsmen; I o the left,
funeral rites!.
Farther on, a little higher up, is the Tomb of Imesib (No. 65), an
official of the temple of Amon in the reign of Itani.scs l.X. ('20th Dyn.).
This tomb was originally constructed under the 18lh Dyn., but Imesib
coa ed the old reliefs witli a layer of stucco, on which he placed bis
own paintings. The festal barges with the name of the king should be
noticed, as well as the golden utensils and (on the lei't wall) King Ramses IX.
sacrificing to the boat of Anion and to the statues of his ancestors.
We quit the large enclosure de-^idc tomb No. 65 and proceed to visit
a number of interesting tombs within a smaller enclosure immediately
opposite. The Tomb of Peser (No. lUB), vizier of Sethos I., possesses a
fine stele and statues of the deceased, all in the fureciurt ; in the entrance
and on the pillars Peser ami his wife are represented, the former in his
oflicial dress. — The Tomb of Amenemopet (No. 41), chief steward of
Amon, has statues of the deceased against the pillars of the lirst room;
on the walls are memorial inscriptions and religious scenes. — We now
enter the Tomb of Amenmose (No. 42), governor of the northern subject
lands; in the first pillared rixmi (rear wall to the left and end-wall to the
left) the deceased is seen presenting the tribute of the Asiatic peoples to
the king. — The reliefs in the Tomb of Men-kbeper-re-seneb (No. 112)
are well executeil but iiiucli defaced. — Lastly we come to the Tomb of
Zeser-ke-re-seneb (No, 38), measurer of the corn of Amon; on the rear
wall to the right in the first room is an e.\'cellent representation (^f a
banquet, with women dancing and playing before the deceased and bis
sister.
Outside the enclosure, near tlie cottages on the road from the
Kamesseiini to Deir el-Bahri, lies the **Tomb of Nakht (No. 521,
dating from the beginning ol' the ISth Dynasty, 'i'liis tomb ooii-
'20*
314 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK). 7. The Tomhs of
tains two chambers, of which, however, only the first is decorated.
The paintings on the walls are wonderfnlly brilliant. Under Amen-
ophis IV. the name of Amon has been obliterated wherever it oc-
curred. — WtiiL A. In the lower row is the deceased superintending
his labourers, who are ploughing, digging, and sowing; two men
are breaking the clods with hammers; to the left a labourer drinks
from a water-skin hanging from a tree; a tree is being felled. In
the upper row, to the right, the deceased inspects harvest operations
^ represented in three rows: below, three
men reaping with sickles, behind them
a woman gleaning, two men packing
the ears of corn in a basket, two women
plucking flax ; in the middle, the tliresh-
ed corn being measured; above, win-
nowing the grain. To the left, the
deceased and his wife sai-viliiing. —
Wall B. I'alse door painted to imitate
granite. Over the true door are the deceased and his wife at table,
and beside and beneath it are attendants with grapes and other
offerings. — Wall C (in poor preservation). In the lower row, to
the right, the deceased and his wife (much damaged) are seated at
table, upon a bench, below which is a cat eating tish; their son
brings flowers and geese to them, while three women make music;
other relatives sit in two rows to the left. Only the left half of the
upper row remains : a blind harper and women seated on the ground
conversing. — Wall D. In the lower row, the deceased and his wife
seated in an arbour, while servants bring them flowers, grapes,
poultry, lish, etc. ; to the right birds are being caught in nets and
plucked; above, vintage and wine-pressing. In the upper row, to
the left, are the deceased and his wife; to the right, the deceased
spearing fish and fowling. — Wall E (unfinished). Nakht and his
wife seated at table, while their relatives bring offerings. — Wall F.
The deceased and his vdte, followed by three rows of servants, offer
a sacrifice (as on Wall E).
A little to the E. of the tomb of Nakht is a Coukt adjoined by
four tombs. To the S. is the *Tomb of Neferhotep (No. 50 ), a priest
who lived under King Haremheb (18th Dyn.). The first Large Room
contains some beautiful and well-preserved ceiling-paintings. On
the left end-wall we see the deceased being decorated with chains of
honour in the presence of the king. On the rear wall, to the left of
the door to the corridor, we see the deceased and his family, with
a son bringing food to them. Below this, to the left, is a harper,
with the text of the song he is singing in front of him. On the right
wall of the corridor, where the deceased and his wife are seen sit-
ting at the table of offerings, is a second copy of this song, which
encourages us to leave all cares behind and think of the joys of life.
In the recess are statues of the deceased and his family. — To the
Shcilclt'Abdel-lytrna. THKRES (\V. BANK). -JO. Route. 3l0
N. of the court is the Tomb of Userhet (No. 61). the first prophet
of Thutmosis 1. This tomb was constructed in the time of Kamses II.
A charming scene on the right end-wall represents the deceased and
two women under a tree, with their souls shown in the form of birds.
Other birds sit in the branches, while to the right stands a goddess
giving water to the deceased. i>ome of the other details also are
very attractive. On the rear ^^all, to the right of the door to the
(•orridor (blocked up), the deceased and his sisters are shown sacri-
ficing to Osiris at the top. while below they stand in the presence of
Thutmosis. — To the K. is the Tomb of Amen-wehsu (No. Ill),
a painter who has decorated the walls with his own hands with
well-preserved scenes on stucco and texts of religious import. —
The Tomh of Khensumes (No. 30), on the W. side of the court, is
much dilapidated and not accessible.
A little to the N. of this court is the Tomb of Khonsu (No. 31),
the first prophet of Thutmosis III., with beautiful paintings. On
the rear wall to the left are represented the pylons of the temple
of Hermonthis, in which the deceased officiated.
Among the mounds of rubbish between the Kamesseum and the
large enclosure (p. 31U) is the *Tomb of Samose (No. 55), a vizier,
who flourished in the reign of the heretical king j\.menophis IV.
(p. cii). As one of the few monuments dating from the begin-
ning of the reign of Amenophis IV., the period at which the transi-
tion from the ancient religion to pure sun-worship was accomplished,
this tomb is of great historical importance. The tomb consists of
an open Court surrounded by colonnades and a Hall. Some of the
scenes are executed in delicate relief and some are painted in bright
colours or just sketched in in black pigment. The pillars of the court
are no longer standing, and the N. part is still covered with rubbish.
The Arcades of the Court have been shut off by modern walls
and are protected by a wooden roof. On the E. Wall we see Ramose
at table with his wife Merit-Ptah and his relatives, very delicately
executed in relief. On the S. Wall are painted burial-scenes. On
the lefthalf of the W. Wall is Amenophis IV., still represented in the
old conventional manner, seated below a canopy with Maat. the god-
dess of truth, whileRamose is represented twice; on the riixhthalf the
king aT\d his consort are shown on a balcony of the palace, watch-
ing Ramose being adorned with the golden chains they have thrown
down to him. Tlie unattractive figure of the king is here repro-
duced with great fidelity to nature; the figure of Ramose is merely
sketched in. Above are the sun and its beams; behind, the royal
body-guard. Farther to the right is Ramose leaving the palace with
his decorations and receiving the consratulations of tlie populace.
In the doorway, to the left, Ramose appears standing; on the right
Ramose and his wife, followed by three rows of servants, are bring-
ing a sai-rifice.
Adjoining this tomb on the t?. is the Tomb of Userhet (No. 56),
316 Koute 20. T)lKI5E.s (W. BANK). 8. Teinplt of
with its tasteful cuiliiig-patterus anJ some excellent niural paint-
ings. Among tlie latter is a representation of the deceased, wlio
■was a baker, receiving sonic loaves, and another of a barber's shop.
Beside No. 56 lies the Tomb of Kha-em-het (No. 57), super-
intendent of the royal granaries under Anienophis III. It contains
admirable low reliefs. To the left in the doorway is Kha-em-het
with uplifted hands offering a prayer to the sun-god. In the, niche
to the left in the first wide CJiamher are two mutilated statues
of Kha-em-het and his relative Imhotep, a royal scribe, who was
interred in an adjoining but now inaccessible tomb. On the wall to
the right of the entrance is the deceased offering two vessels with
two geese in each; to the left of this relief two upper rows depict
the surveying of the fields; below are cheerful harvest-scenes. On
the rear wall to the left Kha-em-het presents a report on the harvest
toKing AmenophisIII.,who is sitting beneath a canopy (figures much
mutilated). The nine captive tribes at the foot of the canopy should
be noticed. On the right is a similar scene with the king seated
upon a magnificent throne on which he is represented in the guise
of a sphinx. Behind Kha-em-het are three rows of his officials in
humble attitudes. The chess-board decoration of the ceiling is
peculiar. — The texts and scenes in the Corridor relate to the life
beyond the tomb. The Side Chambers and the Recess at the end of
the corridor contain large seated statues, v ry highly polished.
Adjoining the recess opens a small unadorned chamber.
Hard by on the S. is the Tomb of Thuti (No. 45), a steward in the
service of a high-priest of Anion. This wa.s afterwards usurped by a cer-
tain Thuti-em-heb, who added his inscriptions on a yellow ground. The
tomb contains fine coloured representations, showing the deceased at
table, while on the rear wall is a banquet at which the guests are served
by female slaves.
8. Deir el-Medineh.
Kurnet Murrai. Tombs of the Q,ueens.
Ko one should miss seeing the beautiful small Ptolemaic temple of
J^Hr el-Medinch. The Tomb of Iluya at Kurnel Mwrai (p. 318) should be
visited only by those who have plenty of time. The interesting Tombs of
the Queens (p. 319), fur which at least I'/j hr. must be allowed, are pic-
turesquely "situated but lie somewhat out of the way for the traveller
whose time is limited. We may, however, go on to visit them from Me-
dinet Habu (p. 322) and take Deir el-Mediueh in returning.
About 1/2 M. to the S.W. of Sheikh 'Abd el-Knrna, on'the way
either to Medinet Habu (p. 322) or to the Tombs of the Queens
(p. 319), is the graceful Utile —
*Temple of Deir el-Medlneh, begun by Ptolemy IV. Pliilo-
pator and completed by Philometor and Euergetes 11., and princi-
pally dedicated to Uathor, goddess of the necropolis, and to Maat.
It lies in a barren hollow and is surrounded by a lofty wall of dried
bricks which are fitted together in waving lines. Through this a
Doorway of stono (on the S.E.) leads into the temple-precincts, at
the back of which (N.) are steep rocks. The traveller on passing
I>cir cl-Mcdnuh. TIIKHES (\V. UANK).
I'O. JiOuU. 317
(hiougb the doorway in the outer wall sees before him llu' teiin>le of
freestone, on the smooth fai.ade of which, crowned with a concave
cornice, many ti reeks and Copts have written their names. In
Christian times it was used by the monks as a dwelling-place,
and to this is due the mutilation of many of the inscriptions and
reliefs and also its present name (Deir := monastery).
Adjoining I lie templi' on thj left is an ari'hw.ay of hricks.
We lirst enter a large VKsTimrj.K ( Fl. A ), the roof of which (now
mostly fallen in) was supported by two flower-columns. Separated
from it by t^o columns with rich floral
capitals and two pi!lar.s adorned with
heads of Hathor is the PaoXAOs (PI. D).
Stone screens rose between the pillars and
columns, and between the columns, which
bear figures of the deilied sage Amenhotep
and the god Imhotep, was a doorway, open at
the top. Only the left screen now remains.
The walls of this hall are embellished
with incised reliefs, representing the king
sacrificing to various deities. Towards the
top of the left wall is a tasteful window,
■which originally lighted a staircase. — From
the pronaos three doors open into as many
Chapels. Above the concave cornice over
the doorway to the Central Chapel (PI. C)
are seven heads of Hathor. On the interior
walls appears Philopator, sometimes ac-
companied by his sister Arsinoe, sacrificing to various gods; and
on the jambs of the entraiue-door are four gods with bulls' heads. —
On the left wall of the Left Chajiel (PI. D) is a remarkable repre-
sentation of the .ludament of the Dead (PI. a). To the right is
enthroned Osiris, god of the underworld, and in front of him are
the symbol of Enie-wet (p. cl), the four genii of the dead upon
a lotus-flower, the 'Devouror of the Underworld" in tlic form of a
hippopotamus, and Harpocrates, resting upon a crooked staff. The
ibis-he.ided Thout inscribes the verdict. To the left Anubis and
llorus weigh the heart of the deceased; two goddesses of truth, with
feathers on their heads, conduct the deceased into the judgment-
hall. Above is the deceased praying to thi' 42 judges of the dead.
On the rear wall (PI. b) of this chapel Philopator offers incense
before Osiris and ]sif. On the right wall (PI. c) appears, to the left,
the sacred boat of Soker-Osiri> on a pedestal, with standards, etc.,
beside it. To the right the king offers incense to Anubis, who holds
a disk, and to the ithyphallic .Min. On the lintel of the door is a
four-headed ram (the god of the four winds), r.bove which is a flying
vulture, worshipped by four goddesses. On the door-jambs, the
king with three falcon-headed and three dog-headed genii. — The
318 Eoute -JO. THEBES (W. BANK). .S. Tombs of
reliefs in tin; Right Cliapet (PI. E), which show the king before
different gods, are of little interest.
To the S. of the temple lie the remains of a town of the Ptole-
maic period ; beyond are numerous Tombs of the 20th Dynasty,
most of them in ruins.
Two only, both marked by the admirable freshness of their paintings,
repay a visit (key kept by the Inspector General at Luxor). No. 1. Tomb of
iSennutem, an official of the necropolis (comp. p. 282), with a vaulted tomb-
chamber and well-preserved mural scenes and inscriptions of religious
import (fine representatiiin of a banquet of the dead). — No. 3. Tomb of
Peshetu, another necropolis official. The vaulted tomb-chamber contained
a sarcophagus made of blocks of limestone. The walls are covered with
relifiious texts and scenes. To the left of the door is the deceased, lying
on the ground below a palm-tree and praying; to Ihe right, his father
(with white hair) and other relatives.
Farther along the \alley is a tomb with a wide entrance from
which there is a tine •view of Deir el-Mediueh and of the fertile
plains to the E., traversed by the Nile and bounded by the distant
Arabian mountains. In the foreground are seen the temple oi" Me-
dinet Habu , the Colossi of Memnon, and the Ramesseum, and on
the other side of the river the gigantic ruins of Karnak. — From
the valley of Deir el-Medineh to the Tombs of the Kings, see p. 299.
The bfll of KurnetMurraif' Ma/oij, which separates the valley of
Deir el-Medineh from the arable district, is occupied by a number of
fellah huts. Scattered among these are several tombs of the 18th Dyn.,
most of which are of little interest. The only one that nued be men-
tioned is the —
Tomb ofHuye {^Amenhotep; No. 40), who was governor of Ethiopia
( Nubia) under Tut-enkh - Amuii. The key is kept by the Inspector
(ieneral at Luxor.
Entrance Wall. To the right (PI. a) appears the ceremonial investi-
ture of Huye as governor, in presence of the king; his relatives and officials
congratulate him. To the left (PI. 6) stands Huye, with his relatives,
and in front of him are two gaily decorated
Nile -boats; to the right is Huye as governor
of Kthiopia, with five rows of people bringing
tribute, etc. — On the Left End Wall (PI. c)
appears the deceased, sacrificing to the dog-
headed Anubis on the left and to Osiris on
the right. — On the Eear Wall (PI. d) is Huye,
bearing the fan and crooked staff, the symbols
of his dignity, with three rows of Nubian
chiefs. Behind him is the tribute from Nubia,
including a Nubian landscape standing upon
/
-I t I ~
(able covered with panther-skins and cloths: in the centre is a conical
hut, with dum-palms, giraffes, and negroes at the sides. Higher up are
bowls of jewels, rings of gold, sacks of gold-dust , shields covered with
golden plates and gay skins, footstools, chairs, benches of ebony, a chariot,
etc. The Nubian chiefs, dressed (with a few exceptionsj in the Egyptian
style, are received by Huye and his brother Amenhotep. In the top row,
behind the chiefs, their princess, shaded by an umbrella, approaches in a
chariot drawn by oxen, and is followed by chiefs wearing ostrich-feathers
in their hair, which is plaited into a kind of hood (as is the custom
iJeir el-Medineh. THEBE.S (VV. BANKJ. -JO. lioute. 319
to this day ainoug these tribes). The processiou is closed by a brown and
a black Ethiopian woman, with pendent breasts. The latter carries a
child on her back, and each woman leads a boy behind her. In the second
and third rows are Nubians bringing gold, panther-skins, a girafle, and
o.xen. Ketween the horns of the last, which are represented as arms, are
heads of supplii-ating negroes. More to the left are Ave rows of ships (the
lower rows much damaged). Five Ethiopian princes kneel upon the deck
of the second boat. Cattle and other goods are being brought to Egypt in
the smaller vessels below. — On the other side (PI. e) appears the king,
seated near the corner pillar; before him stands Huye presenting the Syrian
tribute, which includes artistic gold vases. Amenhotep brings pieces of
lapis lazuli on a dish; by his right hand hangs a breastplate, set with
precious stones. The other representations are almost entirely obliterated
— The sepulchral inscription, which should have occupied the Right Ekd
Wall (PI. /), was never executed. On each side of tho vacant space are
offerings to lluye. The rest is destroyed.
The Tombs of the Queens, called by the Arabs Bibdn el-Harim
or Biban el-Bandt, and sometimes Bibdn el-Haggi Hammed^ also
f deserve a visit from those travellers who can afford the time (lights
should be taken).
On the way from Deir el-Mediueh to the (V4 ^'^•) Tombs of the
Queens we pass a number of inscribed steles, formerly in niches.
The first of these shows Ramses III. before Amon and I'tah. On the
next Merit-seger, goddess of the West, offers the same monarch her
breast; behind is the sun-god llarakhtc; to the right is Amon, in-
vesting the king with the sickle-shaped sword. The inscription refers
to the campaigns of the king. We then ascend through a mountain
valley with bare and lofty sides of limestone, picturesquely formed
and carved witli inscriptions to the gods of the regions of the dead. —
The road from Medinet Habu (p. 322) to the (t/g hr.) Tomhs of the
Queens unites with that above described just before reaching the
tombs.
Both routes end in an enclosed Valley, which is of great beauty,
though not so imposing as that of Bibau el-Muluk ([>. 284). From
the farther end of the valley , in particular, a splendid view is en-
; Joyed of the Theban plain and the Colossi of Memnon,
The tombs belong mainly to the 19th and 20th Dynasties. Al-
together upwards of 70 have been discovered, most of which were
excavated in 1903-4 by the Italian archseological mission under
E. SchiapareUi. Many of them are unfinished and entirely without
decoration, and in their rough and blackened condition, resemble
mere caves in the rocks. It is rare to find either inscriptions or re-
presentations carved in the stone ; even in the finest tombs the lime-
stone walls were more often covered with plaster, which could be
aiiorned with paintings without much difticulty. The more im-
portant tombs are designated by tablets with Italian inscriptions,
and the best-preserved ones, which alone are \\orth visiting, must be
opened by the keeper.
We proceed along the E. wall of the valley, passing a tablet
commemorating tlie Italian excavations. The graves we lirst reach
320 lioutc -JO.
TUIir>KS (W. llANKj.
.S. Tonihs of
are No. 36 (of an uuknowu piiii<ess), No. 39 (of Silre^ mother of
Sethos 1.), jYo. iU (of aa unknown prinoess), and No. 4'J (oil'ic-hcr-
irnamf, a son of Ramses lllO- Beyond these is —
No. 43, tlie Tomb of Prince Seth-her-khopshef, son of Kamsos 111.
Two narrow corridors lead to a some>vliat wider chamber, wliich is
adjoined by a small room. The reliefs, whicli were formerly coloured
but are now smoke -blackened, show the prince ami the king praying
to various deities and performing; other religious rites. On tiie rear
wall of the innerm )st chamber Osiris is seen to the right and left,
while on the side-walls are various other di-ities arranged in two rows.
*No. 44. Tomb of Prince Khamweset, son of Ramses 111., with
colourei reliefs in excellent preservation. In the Fir$t Room are
seen the dei-.eased and Ids royal father in the presence of various
deities. Adjoining are two lateral chambers with reliefs of the prince
in the presence of the gods; on the rear wall are Isis and Nephthys
with Osiris. The mural representations in the following Corridor
show the king and prince in front of the gates and guards of the
Fields of the Blessed ; adjoining are citations from the 'Book of the
Dead' (p. 284). In the last Toom the
king is seen before various deities.
Beyond the Tomb of Prince Kham-
weset we pass No. 51 , the Tomb of
Queen Eset, mother of Ramses VI.,
and reai;h —
*No. 52. the Tomb of Queen Titi.
It consists of the usuil antechamber,
a long passage , and a large chapel
with a small chamber on ench of its
three sides. The freshness of the colour
is extraordinary.
From the An'ernoin (PI. 1) we enter
the long Corridor (PI. 2). on each side of
which, near the door, is the goddess of
truth, protecting those who enter with
her wings. On the left wall (P). a) we see
the queen before Ptah, Harakhte (morning
sun), the genii of the dead Emset and
Twe-metf, and the goddess Isisi on the
right (PI. fc) Titi stands before Thout,
Atum (evening sun), the genii of the dead
Hapi and Kebh-snewf, and Nephthys, the
sister of Isis. — At the entrance to the ChaiKl (PI. 3> are the goddess Selket
(vyith the scorpion on her head; PI. c), and Keith, 'the great lady of
SaVs' (PI d). On the walls of the chapel are gods and daemons. — On
the rear wall of Side Chamber i Hathor, the goddess of the necropolis
(left), appears (in the form of a cow) in a mountainous landscape; in
front stands a sycamore, from which Hathor (this time in human form)
pours out Nile water to revive the queen. — In Side Chamber 5 i? the
mummy shaft (caution necessary). — In the innermost Chamber 6' Osiris
sits enthroned on the rear wall; before him stand Neith and Selket and
behind him Nephthys and Isis (side by side) and also Thout. <>n the walls
e and f are the genii ol the dead and other gods seated at tables bearing
offerings, while the queen (g, h) prays to them.
Veil tt-Mcdmeli. illEUE:.- (\S . i;A^K).
.'0. liouic.
321
Close by is —
*No. 55, the Tomb of Prince Amen-her-khopshef, son of Ram-
ses 111. The scenes in this tomb are remarkably fresh in colour.
lu the First KcoJH (I'l. 1) we see, to the left, Kamses III. embraced by
Isis; farther on, Itaiuscs 111., accompanied by Prince Anien-ber-khopshef,
offers incense to Ptah; representations of the
king before various divinities (Ptah-Tenen,
Twe-raetf with the ilo^'s head, and Emsct, the
guardian spirits of the dead, and Isis), who
take him by the Iiand. To the right are similar
pictures: the king embraced by Isi?; the kinj;
and the prince burning incense before the god
Show; Kebh-suewf, Mapi, and Isis holding the
king by the hand. — The Side Room (2) con-
tains no pictorial decorations. — The follow-
ing Corridor (3) is adorned with pictures like those in the Corridor of
Tomb Xo. 41 (p. 320). The other rooms (4 and 5) are unfinished.
Adjacent is —
**No. 66, the Tomb of Nefret-ere Mi-en-Mut, wife of Kamses II.,
the arrangement of which differs from that of the other tombs of
the queens. Its beautiful pii-tures take the form of the finest painted
sturco reliefs, which have, however, suffered in places from tlie iu-
tiltration of water; the portraits of the queen deserve particular
attention. The ceiling is adorned with the stars of the firmament.
A stair leads down to the First lioom (PI. 1), along the left ^yalU of
which runs a bench for the reception of sacrificial gifts, crowned with
a concave cornice. The inscri])tions consist of reliiiious texts from the
17th chapter of the Book of the Dead. The accompauying pictures
represent the queen, seated under a canojiy, playing draughts; tlie soul
of the queen, represented as a bird with
a human head ; the queen, kneeling, wor-
ships the sun borne by two lions; the
god Thout as an ibis ; the mummy on
the funeral couch; various divinities.
<>n the walls to the right, the queen
before Usiris, prayinsr to the sun-god
Harakhte and to the goddess of the West
(PI. b-d)\ similar picture of the queen,
folUiwed by Isis, before the sun -god
Khepre, his head in the form ot a
scarabaus (PI. e); the g>ddess Selket
(PI. g). — In the Side Room to the right
(PI. i) we see (beginning on the right) the god Klinum, accompanied by
isis and Xephthys; the queen. worship|iing the sacred bull and seven sacred
cows; the queen before Atura and (farther on) before Osiris; the queen
offering writing-materials to Thout and sacrificing to Ptah. — On the
side-walls of the Staircase (\'\. 3) leading from Iloom 1 we see above, ito
the right and left, the (|ueen in presence of various divinities; below are
I<is and Nephthys kneeling and mourning. On the architrave of the door,
the goddess of trutli with outstretched wings. — We now enter the Pillared
Hall(V\.i), containing the coffin of the queen, who is represented on the
walls in prayer before the keepers of the gates of the underworld. The
pictures on the four pillars show llie ^od 'Horus, the avenger ot liis father',
as the priest of the dead with the panther-skin, the queen before various
divinities, Osiris the god of the dead, and his pillar-like symbol. — The
reliefs in the smaller Rooms 5-7 are much damaged.
322 Route -JO. THP:»1ES (W. bank). S». Temples of
9. Medinet Habu.
About 1 M. from Deir el-Medineh and '/2 M. liom the Memnoii
colossi (p. 330), in a conspicuous situation, lies the tiouthernmost
temple-group of the Theban Necropolis. This bears the name of
Medinet Habu ('town of Habu'), a Christian village which arose
around and even within the ancient sanctuary as early as the 5tli
cent., and of which considerable traces still remain.
The entire edifice may be divided into two easily distinguished
portions. One of these is a smaller and older temple of the 18th Dyn-
asty (p. 328), afterwards enlarged. The other is the main temple
of Ramses III. (p. 323), which was encloscfl by a crenelated wall,
13 ft. higii. We pass tiie pylon and other buildings in front of the
small temple and visit first the structure of IJamses.
We pass through the outer wall by means of a Gate (PL A ),
aboutl3ft. wide, flanked by two small Porter's Lodges. Beyond these
we are confronted by the remarkable edifice resembling the gateway
of a fortress and known as the —
High Gate or Pavilion of Ramses III., which forms the entrance
to the temple-precincts instead of the usual massive pylon and portals
of stone. This structure interrupts the great inner wall of brick
which enclosed all the temples within a rectangle and was connected
with the royal palace (p. 324). The pavilion thus formed a part of
the palace, which stood at some distance from it. Its apartments
were occasionally used as a residence by the Pharaoh and his harem
and were decorated accordingly (comp. p. 323). Two tall towers
(PI. />,«), with almost imperceptibly sloping walls and with their E.
sides resting upon a battering foundation-wall, enclose a narrow
court, gradually contracting towards the bark, where there is a gate-
way (PI. a) in the central erection joining the towers. The reliefs on
the Facade of the Right Tower (Pi. b} show the king smiting his foes
in presence of Harakhte; below are seven fettered princes, represent-
ing the vanquished peoples (Kheta or Hittites, Emor or Amorites,
Zakari, Shardana or Sardinians, Shakalasha or Sicilians, Tuirsha or
Tyrrhenians, and Peleste or Philistines; comp. pp. 324, 325). On the
Facade of the Left Tower (PL c) is a corresponding picture of Ramses
smiting his Nubian and I^ibyan foes before Amon-Re.
In the Court between the towers are two seated figures of the
lion-headed goddess Sekhmet, in black granite (found in front of
the gate). On the walls, between the first and second stories, are
some curious consoles or brackets, which are adorned with the busts
of four captive enemies, andfformcrly bore statues of the king. The
reliefs on the walls are mostly sa'-rificial in character.
Bight (N.) Wall of ike Court. The representations from right to left
are: 1. Ramses sacrificing to SetU (defaced) and to Nut; below is the king
presenting two rows of captives to Anion, 'i. The king offering wine to
Atum and a goddess; below, the same ofl'ering flowers to Enhuret and to a
goddess. 3. Mont (defaced) and Atum conduct the king before Amnii. —
Left (S.) Wall of the Court. 4. The king presents an image of Anion
1 : 2300
lOO 2O0 300
aved i. primed bv
Warner t ])ebes,Leipzi
Mei}mef liahu. THEBKS (W. BANK). 2U. Route. 323
to llaraklite and Maat •, below, he leads two rows of captives before
Anion (the labyan in the lower row, drawn full-face, should be noticed).
5. The king offers incense to the moon-god and to Seshet; below, he
presents an image' of Maat to Ptah and Sekhmet. In the second story is
a. window with attractive ceiling-decorations. G. The king before Amon,
with Jlut and Thout behind him.
In the Gateway (PI. a) leading to the forecourt the king appears
<'ondui',ting two rows of fettered captives before Amon (on the
left) and smiting a band of enemies (on the right).
A modern staircase in the S. tower ascends to two Ajxtrlments
in the upper part of the middle structure, the floor between which
has disappeared. The wall-reliefs of the lower room have vanished,
but tliose of the upper room (harem-scencs) are still quite distinct.
The windows command a fine view of the temples and ruined village
on the W. and of the plain to the E. Similar reliefs adorn the walls
of the other (inaccessible) rooms.
Some of these Rkliki-s may be seen from below. One, on the W.
wall of a room in the upper story of the N. Winj, is visible from the
entrance; it represents the king seated with five maidens standing round
him. — From the N.K. corner of the outer court (see below) we observe
iu the upper story of the N. wing two windows. To the right and left
of these is the king, again surrounded liy maidens. More to the right,
near a hole in the wall, the king, with a maiden standing in front of
him; of the kneeling and standing women to the left only the lower
portions remain. Below is a narrow window, with vases of flowers
above and to the right the king listening to girl-musicians. — In this
]iart of the N. wing we may observe the holes in which the ends of the
rafters supporting the floors of the upper stories were inserted.
The inner (W.) side of the central edilice, through which we pass
by the Gateway a, bears reliefs showing the king in various posi-
tions as the conqueror of his enemies. — We have now entered the
extensive Outer Court, between the pavilion and the main temple.
In the middle stands a small Gateii-ay (PI. 7>), erected by Nelitanebos.
To the right lies the Temple of the ISth Dyii. (p. B2.S). To the
left is a small —
Mortuary Temple of Amenertais, a princess who was the ec-
clesiastical ruler of Thebes under the last Ethiopian monarchs and
Psammetichos 1.
Through a Portal we enter a Forecourt , formerly with an arcade on
either side, each borne by two columns, and thence pass to the vaulted
iSancluary, which is completely surrounded by a corridor. (Jn the Left
Wing of the portal we see AmenertaVs sacrificing to Amon (above) and
standing holding two sistra before Amon and Mut (lielow). On the Right
Wing Amenertais sacrifices to Amon (aliove) and to a goddess (below).
'I'lie temple is adjoined on the right by three chapels, dedicated to Nilocris
(dauiihter of Psammetichos 1.), Shepenupel (daughter of the Etiiiopian king
Piankhi), and Mi'hl-wesekhet (wife of Psammetichos 1.). The last chapel had
a kind of crypt, witli inscriptions, visible beneath the broken flouring.
The *Main Temple of Ramses III. was built on exactly the
same plan as the Ramesseum and was dedicated like it to Amon.
The facades of both towers of the large First Pylon are covered
with representations and inscriptions commemorating the king's
warlike exploits. On the Right Tower {\'\. C), to the right, the king
324 noule-2i>. THEBES (W. BANK). <). remples of \
ii shown bet'ure Auioii-Ku-Havaklitc, gi';i,-pii)g a band of ciieinies
by the hair and smiting tliem with his club. The falcon-headed god
hands him the curved sword and leads to him by a cord the captured
lands, which are represented in the accustomed manner (p. 272)
by circular walls enclosing their names and surmounted by bound
enemies. Beneath are two other rows of representations of con-
quered lands. Farther to the left, between two grooves for the
tlag-staffs, is a similar but much smaller scene, and beneath is a
long inscription, describing in exceedingly exaggerated language
the victory won by Ramses III. over the Libyans in the IJth year
of his reign. At the foot Amon is seated to the left, with Ptah
standing behind, inscribini; the years of the king's reign on a palm-
branch. The liing kneels before Anion, under the sacred tree, and
receives from the god the hieroglyphs for 'jubilee of the reign',
suspended on a palm-branch, as a symbol of long life. Thout writes
the king's name on the leaves of the tree, and beside him stands the
goddess Seshet. To the right of the portal, below, is a stele of the
12th year of the king (imitated from a stele of the Both year of
Ramses II. at Abu Simbel, p. 408), representing the gifts made to
the god Ptah. The Left Tower (PI. 7>) bears similar scenes and
inscriptions.
Through the Central Portal (PI. cV), embellished within and
without by representations of the king worshipping the gods, we
enter the First Court, forming an approximate square of 115 ft.
The inner side of the first pylon is adorned witli scenes from the
Libyan campaign of Ramses (see above). To the S. (PI. e) is a
battle, in which the Egyptians are aided by mercenaries from among
the Shardana (p. P)22), who are distinguished by their round helmets
ornamented with horns. To the N. (PLf) are the captured Libyans
marshalled before the king, and an inscription. — The court is
flanked on the right and left by covered Colonnades. The ceiling
of that to the right is borne by seven square pillars, against which
stand colossal statues of the king as Osiris. The left (S.) colon-
nade has eight papyrus- columns with calyx-capitals. These last
belonged to the facade of a royal palace, which formerly stood to
the S. of the temple and communicated with the first court by
three doors and a large balcony-window. To the right and left of this
window the king is seen standing on a bracket formed of hostile
heads and slaying his foes. The scenes on the colonnade-walls re-
present the wars, victories, and captives of the king. At the ends
the king is seen on his way to the feast of Amon, attended by his
fan-bearers.
The inscriptions and sculptures on the Second Pylon are still
more interesting. On the Eight Tower (PI. E) is a long inscription
recording the triumph won by the king in the 8th year of his reign
over a league of peoples from the lands of the Mediterranean, who
menaced Egypt by sea and by land from Syria. On the Left Tower
Me.lhiel llohu. TIIKllKS (\V. MANK). -20. UoiiU.
325
(PI. /•) (he king leads before Anion ami Mut tlirte rows ol' prison-
ers, representing the conquered in this campaign. These have
beardless faces and wear enrious caps adorned witli feathers; their
pointed aprons , decorated with tassels, differ from those of the
Egyptians. The inscription desr.ribes them as belonging to the tribes
of the Danuuna and Peleste (Philistines').
The granite gateway of the second pylon, which is approached
by an inclined plane, admits ns to the Second Court, which is 125 ft.
deep and 138 ft. brna<l. In the Christian period it "was converted
into a church, the remains of which have been cleared away. This
court is almost an exact r(;produ(:tion of the second court of the
Ramesseum, even to part of the relief-embellishments; but it is in
much better preservation. On all four sides are colonnades. On the
N. and S. these are snpported by columns with bud-capitals ; on the
E. are square pillars with Osiris-statues, and on the W. is a terrace
(pronnos I with eightOsiri.s-pillar.> in front and eight coiuinns behind.
On the columns and pillars the king is shown sacrificing to the gods.
The reliefs on the back-walls of the colonnades illustrate events
in the life of Ilamses, some showing great festivals in which he took
part, others the warlike deeds of himself or his army. — N. and
N.K. Colonnades. In the upper row are ^Scenes from the Great
Festival of the God jyin, which was celebrated also as a coronation
festival, as we have seen in the Ramesseum (p. 307). First (PI. 1)
appears the Pharaoh , borne from his palace by his sons (names
wanting) on a richly-decorated litter with a canopy. He is followed
by numerous courtiers, while he is preceded by priests carrying
censers, a priest who recites, and a troop of soldiers, each of whom
wears two feathers on his head. 'J'he trumpeter and drummer in
the upper row, and the ca>tanet- players in the lower row, should
be noticed. In the next scene (PI. '2) the king is shown sacrificing
and offering incense before the image <>( Min. The following scene
(PI. 3), continued on the E. wall, exhibits the sacred procession. The
image of Min is borne on a litter by priests, while fan-bearers walk
by the side and priests carrying the sacred shrines follow. In front
marches the king, who in turn is preceded by a white bull (the
sacred animal of Min), the queen, and a long procession of priests
carrying standards, temple utensils, and images of the king and his
ancestors. To the right is the king awaiting the procession , with
two emblems in front of him. Priests lot four birds escape (comp.
p. 307). Farther to the right (PI. 4) the Pharaoh cuts with his sickle
the sheaf of corn handed to him by a priest (as in the Ramesseum,
p. 307). Behind him stands the reciting priest, who intones a hymn
to Min, while another priest presents the sheaf to the god. The
queen (above) also is present at this ceremony. The white bull again
appears in front of the king, and beneath is a series of images of the
royal ancestors. Finally (PI. 5) the king is shown offering incense
to the god Min, who stands under a canopy.
326 Route 20. THKRES (W. BANK). 9. Temples of
The lower series of representations on the N. and N.E. walls are less
interesting. To the left (PI. 1) are the sacred boats of Kbons, Mut, and
Amon, to which the king sacrifices ; to the right (PI. 2) priests bear the
boats out of the temple, while the king, beliind a fourth boat, approaches
to meet them.
S. AND S.E. Colonnades. In the upper rows in these a Festival
of Ptah-Soker is displayed. It begins to the left of the door (PI. 6)
with a train of priests, bearing sacred boats, images of the gods,
standards, and temple utensils. Behind stand the king and his
dignitaries. We next observe (i*l. 7; S. wall) a colossal symbol of
the god Nefertem, son of Ptah, borne by eighteen priests. The king
(PI. 8) holds a cord, which is being pulled by sixteen courtiers.
Two priests offer incense before the king. Then follow sixteen
priests (PI. 9) bearing the boat of Soker, followed by the king.
The king (PI. 10) sacrifices before the sacred boat; and finally the
king before the ram-headed Khnuin and two other gods, and before
the falcon-headed Soker-Osiris , to whom he offers a platter with
bread. — r>elow are Warlike Reliefs. The 1st Scene (PI. 6, on the
S.E. wall) depicts the king attacking the Libyans with his charioteers
and shooting with his bow. The infnntry fight in wild confusion.
The Egyptians are assisted by the Shardana mercenaries (in the
lower row; p. 3'}4). The -nd Scene shows the return of the king
from the battle. He drives in his chariot, with three rows of fettered
fjibyans in front of him and two fan-bearers behind him. 3rd Scene.
The king leads the Libyan captives before Amon and Mut. On the
S. wall is a relief (PI. 7) showing the king seated in his chariot
(with his back to the horses) and receiving the Libyan captives
( light-red in hue) , who are conducted to him in four rows by his
sons and other notabilities. The hands, etc., cut off from the slain
are being counted. The greater part of this wall is occupied by a
75-line inscription, recording the conquests of the king.
The rear wall of the W. Coeridor, on the terrace, has three
rows of representations. In the two upper rows Ramses III. is
shown worshipping various deities. In the lowest row (as in the
Ramesseum, p. 308) are royal princes and princesses. The names
beside these were added under Ramses VI.
The following chambers are all very dilapidated, and only the
lower parts of the walls and columns remain.
We first enter the Great Hypostyle Hall. The roof was formerly
supported by 24 columns in four rows of six, of which the eight cen-
tral ones were considerably thicker than the others. On the walls are
representations of the king in presence of various deities. An inter-
esting relief on the S. wall shows the magnificent gold vases pre-
sented by Ramses III. to Amon, Mut, and Khons.
Three Smaller Chambers (PI. G, H, J) follow, two with four couples
of columns, and one with four pillars. In Room H are two groups
of red granite, one (left) representing Amon and Maat, the other
(right) the king and the ibis-headed Thnut. — The other rooms at
Mfd'nel nahu. THKBES (W. BANK). t^O. Route. S21
the back were dedicated to different deities. Those to the left of
Room J were devoted to Osiris. One has a vaulted ceiling, with
astronomical representations. From Room G a staircase ascended to
other chambers on the upper floor.
The great hypostyle hall is adjoined also at the sides (N. and S.)
by two series of rooms (PI. 1-11), of which those to the S. formed
the Treasury of the temple.
The Representations on the walls of these treasure-chambers refer to
the costly objects stored within them. Room 1: The king presents Amon
with papyrus-holders borne by lions with the king's head or by kneeling
figures of the king. Room 2 : The king presents to Amon costly vessels
and boxes with lids in the shape of rams or sphinxes or of the heads of
rams, falcons, or kings. Room o : The king presents Amon with sacks
of precious stones. Room 4: The king offers costly table-services, orna-
ments, golden harps, silver, and lead. Room 5: The king ofl'ers heaps
of gold and other precious metals. — In Rooms 6-11 we see the king
sacrificing to various deities. In Room 7 the princes and princesses pre-
sent gifts to the king and queen. In Room 10 stands a colossal alabaster
statue of Ptah (headless), dating from the time of Amenophis III. (found
in the first court).
We now quit the temple and proceed to examine the interesting
Historical Reliefs on the Outside of the Temple Walls, which chiefly
conimeninrate the wars of Bamses III.
We begin with the *S. Wai>i,, the first pylon of whii'h (PI. w)
is adorned with admirable hunting-scenes. Above is the king hunt-
ing mountain - goats and wild asses ; below he appears with his
retinue, pursuing wild bulls in a marshy district abounding with
fish and water- fowl.
On the W. part of the S. wall is a long Festival Calendar, which con-
tains a list of the appointed sacrifices for the period between the 26th
Pakbons (the day of Ramses IIL's accession) and the 19th Tybi. Beneath
is a procession of priests, carrying food. — To the right and left of the
balcony-window of the palace (p. 324), to which a flight of steps ascends,
the king appears in the act of slaying his prisoners. In the embrasure
of the window the king and his retinue arc seen going from the palace to
the temple.
On the W. Wall are scenes from a war with the negroes of the
Sudan and the first of a series illustrating the Libyan war.
S. Half of the Wall : 1. The king in battle; 2. Triumphal procession
with c:iptive negroes; 3. Captives brought before Anion. — N. Half (Libyan
War): 4. The king, behind whom .'^tands Thout, in front of Amon and
Khons ; 5. The king, the falcon-headed Mont, and four priests carrying
idols on the ends of poles; 6. The kiny: in his war-chariot, accompanied
by his guards.
On the W. part of the N. Wall (PI. x, i/) are ten scenes from
the wars against the Libyans and a naval victory over a maritime
people of the N. ; in the E. part are Uw Syrian wars.
W. Half: lit Scene. The Egyptian army on the march. A lion walk
beside the chariot of Eanisea. In another chariot before that of the king
is the standard of Amon-Re with the ram's head. — 2nd .Scene. Battle
with the Libyans. — Urd Scene. The king harangues five rows of soldiers,
who bring captive Libyans. The severed hands, etc., are counted, amount-
ing to 12,535. — 4l/i Scene. The king in the balcony of his palace inspects
the levying of troops. Standards are brought out and weapons distributed
P.aedekkr's Kgypt. 7th Kilil. 21
328 Route 211. THEBES (W. BANK). .9. Temples of
Id the soldiers. — 3th Scene. The king starts for Syria; l)efore him march
soldiers with lances and bows. Below are the Shardana mercenaries
(p. 324). — 6th Scene. Battle with the seafaring tribes of the Jigean in Pales-
tine (p. 324). The king in his chariot shoots arrows against the enemies,
identified as Zakari by their curinus caps. The children of the foe await
the result in ox-waggons. — 7th Scene. The king at a lion-hunt. One of the
lions, hidden in a thicket, has been pierced by the king's spear and arrows-,
another lies dying beneath the horse's feet. Underneath is a procession
of the Egyptian army and mercenaries. — St/i Scene (not very distinct except
when the light falls cm it ol)liquely). "Naval battle with the maritime people
of the TEgfian, who were met and conquered by the Egyptian fleet at the
mouth of tlic Nile. The king shoots from the shore against the hostile
fleet. One of the hostile ships (below) has capsized. The Egyptian vessels
are denoted by the lion's head on the prow. One of these (below, on
the right) has a large number of oarsmen and contains Zakari who have
been captured and pinioned; in the lower row other prisoners are being
conveyed away. The king himself is treading upon captive foes. In
front of him are some archers, and above him, in the form of a vulture,
hovers the goddess of Lower Egypt. — i/th Scene. The king, having alighted
from his chariot, receives in a balcony the grandees who conduct the
prisoners. In the lower row the severed hands are being counted. To
the left is the royal chariot. Above is the 'Kamses Castle', perhaps the
jialace of Jlediiiet Habu. — 70ih Scene. The king presents two rows of
captives, Zakari (above) and Libyans (below), to Amon, Mut, and Khons,
the Theban triad.
E. Half of N. Wall (PI. y, z). First Court. Upper Row (from left to
right): 1. Ramses storms a Syrian fortress; 2. The king alights from his
chari<it after the victory and stabs a foeman with his lance; 'i. The king
receives Ihe jn-isoners and (4.) presents them, along with magnificent vases,
to Amon and Khons. — Lower Row (from left to right): I. Ramses in his
chariot attacking a I^ibyan castle; 2. Libyan prisoners; 3. Three rows of
captives brought to the king by his oflicers; 4. Return with the captives,
greeting by Egyptian crandees; 5. Captive Libyans presented to Amon
and Mut.
On the first pylon (I'l. z) arc three sci^ncs; in the top row, the king
storming a fortress defended by the Ilittitcs; below, battle with the
Libyans; the king alighting from his chariot and binding two captured
Libyans.
On the N. side of the outer court between tlie Pavilion of
Ramses III. and the main temple (p. 323) stands the small hut
elegant peripteral ■ —
Temple of the 18th Dynasty, the oldest building at Medinet
Habu. This was begun in the reign of Queen Hatshepsut and Thut-
mosis in. and finished by the latter when sole monarch. The figures
and inscriptions of the queen, in the first completed (inner) chambers,
have been chiselled ont here also or replaced by those of others.
The figures and names of the gods defaced by Amenophis IV. were
restored under Haremheb and Sethos I. The entrance was originally
on the E. side, but the restorations carried out under the later Pha-
raohs (particularly Ramses III.) and in the Ptolemaic and Roman
periods were so extensive that little of the ancient ground-plan
is distinguishable. The reliefs on the outside date from the reign
of Ramses III.
To the N. of the Pavilion of Ramses is a gate leading into the
second court. The temple itself, to the left, comprises a Cella
(PI. K)., surrounded by a Colonnade (added by Thutmosis III.), and
Medlnel Hahu. THEBES (W. r.ANK). •J0.Bo7(<e. 329
six ClidmbcTs behind (the oldest part of the building). The colon-
nade is enclosed on the outside by a purapct upon which rise square
pillars, which support the roof alons with the sixteen-sided columns
in the inner row. The representations show Thutmosis III. sacri-
ficing or performing other sacred rites in pr(!seiice of the gods. In
the inner chambers Thutmosis I. and Thutmosis II. also appear in
place of the original figures of Hatshepsut. The inscriptions on the
pillars on each side of the entrance refer to the restorations by
Haremheb, Sethosl.. and Pinotem. The cella, the reliefs in which
were restored at a later period, had a door at each end (restored by
Euergetes II.). The last room on the right still contains a 'naos'
of red granite (unfinished). — The structures to the N. and S. of
the anterior colonnade were added at a later period. That to the N.
was erected with blocks taken from earlier edifices, bearing the
names of Ramses II., Pinotem, and Achoris. The small grated
windows and the rings on the upper part of tlie column-shafts should
be noticed.
We now return to the Second Court, which dates from the Sai'tc
period. The granite gateway to the N. was builj; by Peteamenopet,
a noble living at the beginning of the '2()th Dyn. (comp. p. 305).
On the PI the court is bounded by the Second Pidon, which was
erected by Shabako (p. cv), the Ethiopian, and restored under
Ptolemy X. Soter II. On the back of the Pylon appears Taharka
(p. cv), grasping a hand of enemies by the hair and smiting them.
— The adjoining Court of Xektanebos, o 1 1 2 ft- loiig and 26 ft. wide,
was supported on each side by four clustered columns with bud-
capitals (two restored), connected with each other by stone screens.
On the E, side was a portal. — About 13 ft. to the E. of the last
rises the large First Pi/lon, which was built in the later Ptolemaic
epoch, largely with blocks takeiv from earlier edifices (especially
from the Ramesseum). Ptolemy X. Soter II. and Ptolemy XIII. appear
on the central portal, worshipping the gods.
On the E. side of the pylon, facing the First Court, which was
130 ft. long and 83 ft. broad, w.ns a Colonnnde or Vtstihule, which
had columns with rich floral capitals, connected with each other
by high stone screens. Only the two central columns are now left.
In front of one of the screens is placed a door- shaped stele of
Thutmosis 111. in red granite, discovered in the flooring of the first
pylon. The Gateways in the wall surrounding the court are now
built up; that on the S. (PI. yl'is adorned with inscriptions by
Emp. Antoninus Pius.
In tbe>'.E. angle of the gi-eat. !j;irfllc-wall, near the small temple, lie-!
the Sacred Lake, a basin about 60 ft. square, with two flis^hts of .steps. —
About 4.') yds. tn the N.W. of it is a Niltymeter. A Joorway, Ijearing the
name of Nektanebos, admits to a chamlicr beyond which is a corridor,
whence the staircase nf the niloineter descends to a depth of 65 ft. —
Between the temple of the ISth Dynasty and the nilometer stands » small
(latetray, with inscriptions of l<".iiiperiir Dumitian. Its original position is
21*
330 Route 20. THEBES (W. BANK 1. 70. Cologsi
unknown, but it was re-erected ou this spot with blocks found immured
in a Coptic building.
About 200 paces to the S. of the pavilion uf Ramses III. (p. 322j is
a small unfinished Ptolemaic Temple, now known as Kasr el-'Agilz, erected
by Euergetes 11. to Teephibis, a god of similar character io Tliout. It con-
sists of a wide vestibule and three rooms, one behind another. On the
entrance-wall of the second room, to the lelt, we see the king sacrificing
to Thout, Inibotep, and the deified .-^age Amenhotep; the lower row of
reliefs alone is iini.slied, the others are merely sketched out. — About
'/■2 M. to the W. lie the ruins of a town, including the remains of a
Palace of Ameriophis III. (comp. pp. 100, 102). The site, now known as
Malkata, has been excavated under the auspices of the Metropolitan
Museum of New York.
Still farther to the S. than (he Ptolemaic ten)|.]e, about 2V2 M. from
Medinet Habu, on the road to Erment (p. 332), stands a well-preserved
Temple of the Roman Period, dedicated to Isis. and now known as Deir
esh-ShelwH (key kept by the guardian at Medinet Habu). It was erected by
Hadrian and Antoninus Pius, while the ruined pylon bears the names of
Vespasian, Doniitian, and Otho. The temple consists of a cella surrounded
by apartments. A staircase leads to the roof from a room to the extreme
left of the entrance.
10. The Colossi of Meninon.
The *Colossi of Memnon (called by the Arabs Es-Sanamdt., and
also, of late, Kl-h'olns.'ult^ i.e. 'the Colossr), about '/^ M. to the E.
of Medinet Habu and about the same distance to the S. of the
Kamesseum, are the most prominent landmark on the W. bank at
Thebes and are visible from a great distance on all sides. These
two colossal statues have suffered severely from the hand of time
and have lost their artistic value, but they still exert all their old
attraction in virtue of the innumerable associations that cling to
them. The two immense flgurL's and the cubical thrones on which
they are seated are carved out of a pebbly and quartzose sandstone-
conglomerate found in the sandstone mountains beyond Edfu, of a
yellowish-brown colour and very difficult to work. Both represent
Amenopliis HI. atid they originally stood in front of the mortuary
temple erected by that monarch, of which only the scantiest relics
are now left. In the Roman imperial epoch they were taken for
statues of Meninon, son of Eos and Tithonus, who slew Antilochus,
the brave son of Nestor, during the Trojan war, for which he was
himself slain by Achilles.
The S. Colossus is in better preservation than the N. one, but
there is little difference between them in point of size. The dimen-
sions of the former, in which the original form is more easily seen,
are as follows: height of the figure, 52 ft., height of the pedestal on
which the feet rest, 13 ft,, height of the entire monument, 64 ft.
But when the figure was adorned with the long-since vanished
crown, the original lieight may have reached 69 ft. The legs from
the sole of the foot to the knee measure 19^2 f*M *"'! each foot is
10'/2 ft. long. The breadth of the shoulders is 20 ft.; the middle
finger on one hand is 41/2 ft. long ; and the arm from the tip
of the finger to the elbow measures IS'/a ft-
of Memnnn. THEBES (^W. BANK ). W. lioule. 331
The Northern Colossus is the famous Tooal statue of Memnon. To
the left of the kiiiij stands his mother Met-eni-weye, to the right his
wife Teye; a third figure, between the legs, has been destroyed. On
each side of the seat two Nile-gods were represented in sunk relief,
twining the representative plants of Egypt (papyrus and lily) round
the hieroglyph for 'to unite', a symbol of the union of Upper and
Lower Egypt.
Attention began to be directed to the Musical Phenomenon con-
nected with the colossus about the beginning of the Roman em-
pire, after it bad been broken. When it became known that the N.
colossus emitted a musical note at sunrise, a new myth was in-
vented to explain the fact. Memnon who had fallen at Troy ap-
peared as a stone image at Thebes and greeted his mother Eos
with a sweet and plaintive note when she appeared at dawn. The
goddess heard the sound and the morning-dews are the tears she
shed upon her beloved child. If the sound was not heard, it was
taken as a sign that the god was angry. Strabo, who is the first
author to mention the phenomenon , expresses doubt as to its
genuineness; but Pausanias and Juvenal (p. 354) a('cept it as a
fact. The phenomenon ceased altogether after the time of Septimius
Severus, who caused the restoration of the upper portions, perhaps
with a view to propitiate the angry god. The restoration was not
very skilfully managed, with live courses of sandstone blocks.
Attempts have been made to explain the resonance of the stone as
due to the splitting oil' of minute particles from the surface, caused
by the warm sunlight suddenly following upon the cold nights. A
similar phenomenon has been observed elsewhere.
The numerous Greek and Latin Inscriptions, in prose and verse, in-
scribed upon the legs of the figure by travellers under the Roman empire,
are peculiarly interesting. These are more numerous on the left than on
the right leg, and none are beyond the reach of a man standing at the
foot of the statue. The earliest was carved in the 11th year of the reign
of Nero, the latest in those of Septimius Severus and Caracalla, and the
most numerous (27) in that of Hadrian. Only one Egyptian (who is re-
sponsible for a short demotic inscription) is found among these scrib-
blers. The inscriptions were for the most part the work of men of some
eminence, including 8 governors of Egypt, i'l epistrateges of the ThebaVd,
2 procurators, etc. A large number, though not all, are dated. Many of the
great officials who visited the marvels of Thebes were accompanied by their
wives. The colossus was frequently dumb, in which case the visitor
usually waited until a more favourable occasion. Some were so struck
with the phenomenon that they were not content till they had heard it
three or four times. Hadrian (130 A.l>.) spent several days here along
with his wife Sabina and a large retinue. In his reign a perfect (lood of
Greek verses spread over the legs of the colossus, most of them by the
court-poetess Balbilla. One of her effusions (on the left leg) relates in
12 hexameters that Memnon greeted Hadrian, as well as he could (w?
ouvaxdv), when he perceived the emperor before sunrise, but that a clearer
note, like that caused by a blow on an instrument of copper, was emitted
at the second hour, and that even a third sound was heard , so that all
the world could sec how dear the emperor was to the gods.
By far the best verses are those on the front of the pedestal by At-
klepiodotus, who cills himself imperial procurator and poet. They may
be translated as follows: —
332 Route 'J 1. EKMENT. From Luxor
'Sea-born Thetis, learn that Memnon never suffered pangs of dying".
'Still, where Libyan mountains rise, sounds the voice of his loud crying'
'(Mountains vrhich the Nile-stream, laving, parts from Thebes, the hun-
dred-gated)'
'When he glow^s, through rays maternal with warm light illuminated'.
'But thy son who, never-.sated, dreadful battle still was seeking',
'Dumb in Troy and Thessaly, rests now, never speaking'.
Among the ruins in the neighbourhood of the colossi are the
remains of another Statue of great size, lying about 3 min. to the
W., amidst arable land. Close by is a large Sandstone Stele, now
broken in two, which is almost the only relic of the temple in front
of which the above-mentioned statues stood. The hieroglyphics and
the representations refer to the dedication of the temple. In the
rounded pediment the Pharaoh appears receiving the symbol of life
from Amon on the right and from Soker-Osiris on the left ; above
are the winged sun-disk and the name of Amenophis III. Behind
the Pharaoh in each case is his consort Teye. — Still farther to the
N.W., at the foot of the Libyan motintaius, are two fragments of an
ancient brick building, known as Kom el-Heltdn.
21. From Luxor to Assuan by Railway.
('oiiiji. (lie Map, p. 'Jll.
132 M. One rxpress train (with restaurant-car) daily in 6'/4 hrs., and
one slow train in 8'/4 hrs. The railway (very dusty) is a narrow-gauge
single line ; passengers from Cairo change carriages at Luxor.
Luxor, see p. 251. — The line sometimes skirts the right bank
of the Nile, sometimes the edge of the desert.
121/2 M. Erment (Armani). The town (12,300 iiihab.), with
an important sugar-factory and post and telegraph offlces, lies on
the left bank of the river. This town was called in antiquity On,
or, to distinguish it from On ( Ueliopolis) in Lower Egypt (p. 120),
the VpTper Egyptian On or Per-Mont {i.e. 'House of Mont), whence
the Greek name Uermonthh was formed. Its deity was the falcon-
headed Mout, god of war. In the Roman imperial period it was the
capital of a province.
The bank is shaded by stately lebbakh-trees. From the point
where the bazaar reaches the bank of the river a flight of steps, in-
corporating several ancient sculptured fragments, descends to the
stream. The large temple-buildings, dating from the Ptolemaic and
imperial periods, which lay about lt/2 M. to the N.E., have been al-
most entirely destroyed, the stones being used to build the sugar-
fa ctory.
At Rizakdi (El-Rizev/tit, El-Kezikui), 4'/2 31- to the S.W. of Erment, is
a"necroiJolis of the Middle Empire. — The village of Et-Tiid (El-Tod),
the ancient Tuphium, 1'/^ M. to the E. of the station of Erment, on the E.
bank, contains the picturesque remains of a large'temple of the Ptolemaic
and imperial periods, dedicated to Mont. One chamber of the Ptolemaic
period, in perfect preservation, is inhabited by a sheikh. The building
t(j Assudn. EL-KAB. -Jl. Route. 33o
in front, probably the ancient vestibule, is rejuesenleii by a wall and I'y
Ihe lower halves of columns.
IT'/a M. SItayhb, or Shaghab ( Chayab), is the station for Gebelein
(i.e. 'the two mountains ), the long ridge of which is visible on the
left bank of tlie river, crowned with the tomb of a Sheikli Musa
beside the ruins of a temple of the Middle Kmpire. In the back-
ground rise the hills of the Libyan Desert. At the \illage of Gebe-
lein, at the W. base of the hill, lie the ruins of the ancient Croco-
dilopolis. Sarcophagi of the Middle Empire , numerous simple
domestic articles, and. graves of crocodiles have been found here.
In the neighbourhood once stood also the ancient Aphroditespolis,
also called Pathyris (House of Hathor), which for some time was
the capital of a separate nome.
On theE. bank, to the S.E. of Shaghb, lie the villages oi Dabd-
bhjeh (El-Daba'ibah), near which are quarries with inscriptions, and
El-Mu'alla. near which are tombs of the New Empire. — 28'/2 M-
El- Mdta'neh ( Matana), st:ition \'ov Asfun el-Matd'neh, on the W.
bank, with large sugar-factories, the ancient ^Isp/tyiiw (Egypt. Hes-
fan). — The railway now skirts the edge of the desert until just
before Ilsneli, when it returns to the river-bank.
35V2 M. Esneh. The town (p. 342), with its slender minarets,
lies on the opposite bank of the Nile and is reached via the barrage
mentioned at p. 342 (trolley, 1-2 pias. each pers. ; ilonkeys also
tneet the trains). The temple is not visible from the railway. —
46 M. Ei-Sihd'yeh (EL-Sibaiu, Sabn'ieh). The village lies on the left
bank of the Nile.
r)2 Jl. El-Mahamid is the station for visitors to the ruins and
tombs of El-Kdb, lying I'/o ^^- ^^ ^^^ S.E. of the station, between
the railway and the Nile. A simple visit to these may be made on
foot, but those who wish to do more should communicate in advance
with the postmaster or station-master of El-Mahamid, either by post
or telegraph, so that donkeys may be in waiting at the station and
the guardians of El-Kab at their post. Close behind the station, to
the left, is the isolated hill of tombs, and to the right is the old
town-wall of Nekhab.
El-Kftb.
El-Kdb, the ancient iVtA-/i(;6, oint^ ranked among the chief cities
of Egypt and was in prehistoric times the capital of the kingdom of
Upper Egypt. Even under the I'lolemies it was the capital of the
third nome of Upper Egypt, which was afterwards named Latopolites.
Nekhbeyet, the goddess of the town, was represented either as a
vulture or as a woman with the crown of Upper Egypt; she was
regarded as a protecting deity of Upper Egypt. She also assisted
women in childbirth, atid was therefore identitied with Eileithyia
by the Greek.*, who named the town Eileillnjiaspolis. Ilalf-a-day
suffices for a visit to the chief antiquities.
334 Route 21. EL-KAB. From Ijuxot
The *RuiNS OF the Ancient Town of Nekuab, which are sur-
rounded by a massive girdle-wall of sun-dried bricks, lie near the
river. The wall, which probably dates from the Middle Empire, is
damaged only on the S.W., by the Nile. It is of immense thickness
(37 ft.) and encloses a rectangle, 620 yds. long by 590 yds. broad,
with gates on the E., N., and S. sides, beside which broad ascents
lead to the top of the wall. The N. wall intersects a necropolis of
the Ancient Empire, excavated by Quibell in 1897. The city itself,
enclosed by another double vrall, of which distinct traces are still
to be seen, occupied only about one-fourth of the space within the
girdle-wall. Very scanty ruins now remain of the temple, built
during the 18th Dyn. on the site of an earlier sanctuary and en-
larged by Nektanebos and others.
Visitors should not omit to ascend to the top of the N. wall, for the
sake of the admirable view: to the E., at the head of a desert-valley,
appear the isolated rock with the inscriptions, the temple of Amenophis III.,
and, a little nearer, the chapel of Ramses II. (comp. below); to the N. is
the hill with the rock-tombs, and a little farther away is a mushroom-
shaped rock, with the quarries that yielded the stone for the city temple.
We follow the route leading due E. from the E. gateway in the
girdle-wall and cross the dazzlingly white sand, past a small ruined
Sandstone Chapel (no inscriptions) close to the wall. In rather more
than V2 hr. we reach a Chapel of Ramses II., known to the Arabs as
El-Haimndm, i.e. 'the bath .
This temple was built in the reign of Kauises II. by Setaw, governor
of Ethiopia, represented in the entrance-doorway and on the interior walls
on each side of the entrance. Other reliefs show Earases II. sacrificing
to Thout and Horus. On the upper part of the rear wall (right) are cyno-
cephali, sacred to Thout; below are praying men.
We keep straight on, leaving the larger temple of the Ptolemies
on the left, and soon reach two Rocks projecting from the plain, at
the point where the road turns N. towards the desert, halfway be-
tween El-Hammam and the E. temple of Amenophis III. Both
rocks bear numerous inscriptions and figures of animals. Most of
these date from the 6th Dyn. and were probably placed here by
priests of El-Kab.
The i-harming small temple or *Ch.vpbl of Amknophis III. lies
fully V4^''- ^^ th^ ^^- I'' ™^y ^® reached direct in about an hour
from the Nile. The little temple, which is about 50 ft. deep, was
dedicated to Nekhbeyet, 'mistress of Ke-yant' (i.e. of the entrance to
the desert-valley). It consists of a ruined Vestibule of the Ptolemaic
period, with papyrus-columns (the capitals of which strew the
ground), and of a Chamber the roof of which was borne by four six-
teen-sided columns embellished with heads of Hathor. The names
of the king, Amon , and Nekhbeyet, and several representations
of the gods were defaced under Amenophis IV. and restored under
Sethos I. Many of them were again renewed in the Ptolemaic period.
On the Entrance Door of the chamber are a votive inscription and a
representation of Amenophis III. The exterior walls bear only a few in-
scriptions and representations (ships) which were added at a later date;
to Assudn.
EL-KAB. 21. Rouu. 835
to the riglit of the door is Khamweset, in presence of Uamses II., his
father, in couinieinoration of the king's fifth jubilee, in the 41st year of
liis reign. Another hieroglyphic inscription here ('In the ISlh year of his
majesty, lord of the world. Napoleon III.') is certainly the latest in Kgypt,
with the exception of that added to celelirate 'iving Henri V.' (i.e. Count
Chambord). Ou the pavement outside the chapel representations of foot-
prints have been scratched by pilgrims (see below).
The representations within the Chamber have retained their colouring
in good condition. ()n each side of the entrance, Amenophis III. and his
father Thutmosis IV. seated at banquet-tables. Left Wall. Amenophis III.
sacrilicing to the sacred boat, which is decorated with falcons' heads;
Amenophis III. presenting incense and water toNekhbeyet; Anion (blue)
embracing the king and holding the hieroglyph for 'life' to the king's
nose. Rear Wall. On each side of tin; recess, Amenophis III. sacrificing
to Nekhbeyet. liiglU Wall. The falcon-headed Horus handing the hiero-
. glyph for 'life' to the king who stands before him; the king presenting
two wine- jars to Nekhbeyet; the king sacrilicing to the sacred boat.
Adjacent are demotic inscriptions in red, written by visitors to the chapel.
The names of Amenophis alternating with heads of Hathor are arranged
as a frieze in this hall and as an embellishment on the architrave; at
the base of the walls are bulls in a marsh.
Turning at this little temple we direct onr steps towards the Nile
and in '4 hr. reach the ItocK Temple, on the right side of the vaK
ley, recognizable from a distance by the Stair leading up to it. The
latter consists of 41 steps hewn in the rock, with a massive bal-
ustrade on each side. The temple, dedicated to Nekhbeyet, was con-
structed under Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II. (Physkon), and provided
with reliefs and inscriptions by him and by Ptolemy X. Soter II.
On reaching the platform at the top of the stair we pass through a
doorway to a Vestibule, not quite 33 ft. wide, which was supported by
columns with elaborate floral capitals, while the e.xterior sides were
bounded by stone screen? built between columns. Thence another door, the
right half of which is still standing, leads into a smaller Hall (only 20 ft.
wide), which also was bounded by screens between columns. The floor
is covered with ruins. Behind thi.s is the Rock Ciiambicr. This chamber,
which was originally a tomb-chamber dating from the New Empire, ha.s
a vaulted ceiling, with vultures hovering in the centre. At the top of the
walls is a frieze made of the name of Ptolemy X. between head.s of
Hathor. Below are inscriptions and much injured representations of the
king and queen before various deiiies.
On an isolateil hill, about 1 M. from the steamboat landing-place,
are a number of *Rock Tombs, placed side by side on the S. slope.
Most of these date from the end of the Middle Empire or from the
beginning of the New Empire. There are 31 tombs in all, but only
6 repay a visit. These tombs, like all the monuments at El-Kab, are
of small dimensions, but their distinct pictures of anriciit Egyptian
domestic life will interest even those, travellers who have already
seen the tombs of Bciiihasan (p. 2'27) and Slieikh 'Abd el-Kursia
(p. 309).
We first enter the tomb of Peheri (Pehrdij, nomarch of El-Kab,
which is conspicuous by its wiile opening. It dates from the reign of
Thutmosis III., and is distinguished by a series of representations
from the life of the deceased, with well-preserved colouring.
In front of the entrance is a platform in which is the opening of a
deep mummy-shaft. We enter the vaulted Tomb by a much damaged door.
336 Route 21. EL-KAl!. From Luxor
Entrance Wall^ to the left; the deceased with a long stall'; above is a sailing
fhip. — Le/t Wall ( W.). In the upper row is the deceased inspecting harvest
operations (ploughing, sowing, reaping with sickles, collecting and binding
the sheavep, oxen treading out the corn, winnowing the grain, bringing
home the grain in sacks). In the lower row the deceased inspects his
herds (cattle, asses, etc.); he superintends the weighing of gold made into
rings and the shipping of his grain. In the upper row farther on Peheri
holds on his lap the young Prince Wezmose, whose tutor he was; Peheri
and his wife in a bower receiving flowers, fruit, etc. ; above, vintage
scenes. In the lower row Peheri superintends his fowlers and fishers;
the captured birds and fish are being prepared and the nets mended.
Farther on to the right the burial of Peheri and the accompanying rites
are shown in five rows one above the other. — Right Wall (E.). Peheri
and his wife at a banquet, with their son officiating as a priest before
them. Below their chair is a tame baboon. Opposite them are their
relatives at table, and in the lower row are a female harpist and flute--
player. Farther on to the right are Peheri and his wife , praying
and sacrificing. A door was afterwards made through this wall to two
other chambers. — Rear Wall. In the recess here sit Peheri, his wife,
and his mother. On the side-walls of the recess are various persons at
u. banquet.
Of the tombs to the right of the tomb of I'eheri that of Ahmose
Pen-Nekhbeyet is noteworthy. It consists of a single vaulted cham-
ber, the line reliefs in which have, however, left few traces.
Ahmose was a well-known historical personage, who was prominent,
especially in war, under the first kings of the New Empire, from Amosis I.
to Thutmosis III. His biography is recorded in the doorway.
To the left of the tomb of Peheri is that of Setaw, high-priest of
Nekhbeyet. Tins tomb, dating from the time of Ramses IX. (^'20tli
Dyn.), is the latest grave with inscriptions at El-Ka,b. Though
400 years later than the otliers, it is decorated on the same plan.
On the Left Wall nothing can now be distinguished but four sacred
boats, apparently bound for a festival of the king. Riyht Wall. To the left
are Setaw and his wife at table: below their chair is a baboon. Before
them their son-in-law officiates as priest, in a panther-skin ; and opposite are
their relatives at table, seated in rows. The artist has included his own
portrait, identified by ihe palette. Part of this scene is destroyed by a door
made at a later period to a side-chamber. Farther to the right are Setaw
and his wife sacrificing. — The stele ■ n the Rear Wall is much injured.
To the left of this tomb lies that of Ahmose, an admiral, which
is noted for its long inscription recording the life and deeds of the
deceased, more especially his share in the war of liberation against
the Hyksos.
The tomb cmiiprises a rectangular chamber, with vaulted ceiling, and
another room (right), with the mummy-shaft. Main Room. On the Rvjhl
Wall appears the deceased with staff and sceptre, accompanied by the
painter Peheri, his grandson, who constructed the tomb. In front is the
above-mentioned inscription, continued on the entrance-wall. The designs
on the Left Wall are unfinished ; the red lines to assist the draughtsmen
may still be noticed. The Hear Wall is much damaged; to the right we
see the deceased and his v^ife at table, to the left, the relatives in rows.
The tomb of Reni, nomarch of El-Kab and high-priest at the
beginning of the 18th Dyn., .still farther to the left (W.), contains
representations resembling those in the tomb of Peheri (p. 335),
but not so skilfully executed.
On the Left Wall are harvest-scenes; the deceased superintends the
counting of the stock in his district; close by are a herd of swine, animals
to Aasuan. KOM EL-AHMAK. 21. Route. 337
which were much appreciated in El-Kab, in cuutradistinction to the rest
nf Egypt (comp. p. 390); the deceased and his wife at table, with their
relatives seated opposite. On the Right Wall, the funeral and accompany-
ing ceremonies. In the Rear Wall is a recess wilh a seated statue of the
deceased, now quite destroyed.
The last three tombs farther to the left (W.) appear to date from
a period before the New Empire.
One of these belongs to a man and his wife Ah-sofrd, a lady attached
to the royal harem. Another (with a vaulted ceiling) belonged to Bebi
and his wife Sebek-nakht, who also was a lady of the harem. The third
consists of a vaulted chamber with a tastefully adorned ceilins and a room
with the shaft. It dates from the reign of Sebek-hotep II. (13th Dyn.).
A little to the W. of the hill of tombs stood a small Temple of
Thiitmosis III., now destroyed.
On the W. bank opposite El-Kab, about '/o ^I- from the river,
lies the village of Muissdt (Mo'isdt), and farther on, about 3 M. from
the river, on the edge of the desert, rises the —
Kom el-Ahmar (Red Hill'}, with the extensive ruins and tombs
of Hierakonpolis.
Hierakonpolis (Egypt. Xekhen) was one of the most ancient cities in
ihe country and in prehistoric times the capital, along with El-Kab, of
Upper Egypt. Its god was a Horus, to whom the falcon was sacred, whence
arose the (ireek name Hierakonpolis ('city of falcons'). A little to the N.,
beyond a broad desert route, is a second mass of ruins, amongst which
is a large Fori, probably da!ing from the Ancient Empire, with a low
liuter wall and a higher inner wall <if unburnt bricks. On the E. side is
the gate, lu the adjoining: cultivated land lay the Temple of Nekhen, in
which Quibell discovered in 1897-98 some important sculptures of the
period of the earlie.-<t kings, besides others of later date, including the
copper statue of I'hiops I. mentioned on p. 83. — To the W. is a hill
with tombs of the Ancient and Middle Empires, one without inscriptions
and two with designs and inscriptions upon stucco. — About '/< lir. farther
to the W.. also on the hill of Kom el-Alimar, are eight rock-tombs, dating
from the beginning of the New Empire, of which only the first to the
right or X. (Thvti, of the time of Thutmosis I.) and the first to the left
OP S. {Harmose, high-priest of Xekhen) repay a visit. The structure of
these tombs resembles that of the tombs at El-KSb. At the inner end of
each is a recess with a statue of the deceased and his wife. In the tomb
of Harmose dancing-girls are painted upon stucco.
Beyond El-Ma\iamid the Raii,w.\y traverses the desert. In the
distance to the right the pylon-towers of Edfu come into sight.
66 M. Edfu. The town and temple lie on the W. bank (p. 343 J.
Visitors ferry across the river in small boats in 1/4 hr. (2 pias.) from
beside the station and are met by donkeys on the opposite bank,
though the temple is within '/•> hr.'s walk.
Beyond (Tf) M.) Es-Sirdg the line hugs the river for some time,
passing below the rocks that are crowned by the ruins of a late-
Byzantine fortress (p. 348). ^ 841/2 -^1- Sihreh (Selvah, p. 348).
Near the village of Bl-Kosh ( EC-Jloch), beside the Gebel Abu
Shega, on the W. hank, are a number of quarries. From masons'
marks and Greek insi-riptions in these we learn that sandstone
blocks were quarried here in the 11th year of Antoninus Pius
( 149 A.D.) for a temple of Apollo {i.e. Horus, perhaps at Edfu ).
338 Route 21. SILSILEH. From Luxor
On the W. bank, '/4 hr. above El-H6sh and about ^/4hr. below
Silsileh, is a gorge known as Shatt er-]Eliga.leh ('Shore of the Men',
or es-snb'a rigaleh, 'the seven men'), which was perhaps the starting-
point for an ancient caravan-route through the desert. On the left
side of a cliff here, a few paces from the river-bank, is a most
interesting Relief representing the homage of an inferior king Entef
before King Neb-hepet-re Mentuhotep III. (11th Dyn.) and before
the king's mother Yoh. Behind Entef is an official named Kheti. On
the same cliff-face, farther up in the valley, occur representations
and inscriptions from the Middle Empire and the beginning of the
New Empire. — On the W. bank to the S. of Shatt er-Kigaleh ;iru
other rock-inscriptions and quarries.
89 M. Kagug (El-Kagog). On the river-bank, about 2 M. to the
S.W. of the station, lie the extensive Quarries of Silsileh, worked
especially under the New Empire. The largest quarry is closed by a
gate, which the keeper will open. In the reign of Ramses 11. no fewer
than 3000 workmen were employed here for the Ramesseum alone.
An Inscription of Amenophis HI. records the transport of stones by
the Nile for a temple of Ptah. There are two Posts of the time of
Sethosl. , Demotic Inscriptions from Itoman times, and an unfinished
colossal Spltinr (near the river-bank). — At the N. end of the quar-
ries are found the scanty ruins of the ancient town Khenit and its
temple (fragmentary inscriptions of Ramses II.). To the E. , towards
the top of the rock, is a stele of Amenophis IV., recording that
Amenophis caused an obelisk for the temple of the sun at Karnak
to be quarried here.
To visit the more important monuments, situated on tlie W.
bank, we ferry to the steamboat landing-place, whence we turn to
the N. The well-beaten track skirts the river, passing a number of
small tomb-like recesses (cenotaphs) and memorial tablets. Beyond
some quarries we reach the —
*Rock Chapel (5peo.5; unlocked by the keeper), which was hewn
in the rock under Haremheb, last king of the J 8th Dyn., and in the
following centuries was embellished with inscriptions and reliefs of
great artistic as well as historical value in honour of kings and high
officials. In front are five doorways, separated from each other by
pillars (PI. a-d) at varying distances, and crowned with the torus
and concave cornice. We enter by the middle door, on the lintel of
which are chiselled the sun-disk and the names of Haremheb. The
interior consists of a wide but shallow vaulted hall (PI. A)^ at the
back of which is an oblong room (PL /?). All the walls are covered
with carving and inscriptions.
On the S. Wall (PI./) is a fine relief of a goddess oHering the breast
to King Haremheb, while Khnum stands behind her and Amon-Re behind
the kins:.
On the Rear Wall, at PI. 1, to our left as we enter, is a "Relief of
King Haremheb returning in triumph from his campaign in Ethiopia. The
Pharaoh is seated on his throne, which is borne by 12 soldiers adorned
with feathers. Behind and before him are soldiers with the long-handled
tn Assuan.
SII-SILEH.
21. Ronle. 339
flabelluui. A priest precedes the litter, offering incense, willi a train of
captured Ethiopians and three rows of soldiers (amon;; wliuai is a trum-
peter). To the left the kin^ and Ammon stand upon prostrate negroes.
Beneath the main scene is a recess, to the left of which are negro pris-
oners, and to the rifjht Egyptian soldiers marching oil' captives. Note
the tree style of the attitudes of the barbarians, which is quite without
the usu;il stillness of Egyptian drawing. Poetic inscriptions above both re-
liefs extol the king as the conqueror of the inhabitants of Kush (Ethiopia):
'Plail to thee. King of Egypt I' 'Thy name is extolled in the land ot the
Ethiopians", etc. — To the right in this wall is a recess (Pi- 2) with the
ligure in high-relief (full-face) of Khai, an oflicial under Ramses II. —
PI. 3. Above, inscription with a representation of King Siptah bringing
(lowers to Anion, while his official liai holds the flahellum behind;
lieliiw. King llareinheb shooting arrows against an enemy. — PI. 4. Jlemorial
tablet of the 2nd year of .4uienephthes : the king ollering an image of Maat,
goddess of truth, to Amon-Re and Mut; behind the king are <iueen
Eset-nolret, with a sistrum, and the vizier Penehsi, with a flahellum. —
PI. 5 (recess). Figure in high-relief of a man holding his left hand before
his breast. — PI. 6. Tablet placed by Khamweset, son of Ramses II., in
memory of the fourth jubilee of Ramses II. — PI. 7 (to the right of the
door). Similar inscription of Khamweset. — PI. 8. Small relief of a man
named Moi, in prayer. — PI. 9 (in a recess). Large ligure, in high-relief,
of Prince Khamweset. — PI. 10. Defaced relief of Khamweset receiving
otl'erings. — PI. 11. Tablet, erected by the fan -bearer Jloi, in memory
of the jubilees of Ramses II.; to the left is the kneeling figure of Moi;
above is Eamses II. presenting an image of Maat to Amon, Harakhte,
Maat, Ptah, and Sobek, the local deity of Silsileh. — PI. 12. Relief of a
vizier, beneath which is a dainty little representation of a column with
a palm-capital. — PI. 13. Memorial tablet of the A.'jth year of Ramses II.,
dedicated by a high official, who appears kneeling below, with a flahellum;
above, the king presents an image of Maat to Amon, the great Mut,
Khons, Harakhte, and Sobek (bead injured). — PI. 14. Three men praying.
On the iV. Weill (PI. A) is a recess with six figures in high-relief. On
the E. Wall, at PI. i, and on the Entrance Pillars are numerous memorial
inscriptions.
In the Doorway (PI. g) from the first chamber (o the second (B) are
representations of King Haremheb sacrificing to Harakhte and the goddess
Ews-os of Hcliopolis (on the left) and to Amon and Mut (on the right). —
On the side-walls of Boom B are representations of the gods; in the rear
wall is a recess (PI. *) with the much damaged ligure of Amon seated in
the midst of six other gods.
340 Route 21. SIL8ILEH. From Luxor
The route goes on to the S. from the Rook Chapel, sometimes
skirting the rivor-bank, sometimes leading through the ancient
quarries, which were probably exhausted during the lioman period.
It passes a number of rock -inscriptions and chapel -like recesses
(cenotaphs).
We first reach a rock facing the river, with three Afemorial Infcriptions
upon it: to the left, llamses HI. before Amon, Mut, and Khons; in the
middle, Shoshenk I. (erecter of the tablet) conducted by the goddess Mut
before Amon, Harakbte, and Ptah, while behind the king is his son,
Yewpet , high -priest of Amon-RS and general- in -chief; to the right,
Ramses IX., worshipping Amon, Mut, Khons, and Sobek.
Farther on is a Cenotaph Recess with a painted ceiling, on the left
door-jamb of which is the praying figure of Thutmosis, scribe of the
treasure-house. Another Jiecess, with a ceiling finely painted with spiral
patterns etc., has the cartouches of Thutmosis III. and of Hatshepsut
(destroyed) on the lintel.
Farther to the S., close to the river, are three Cenotaph Recesses side by
side. The northernmost of these belonged ti> Nekht-Jlin, royal scribe and
overseer of the granaries of Upper and Lower Ezypt; on the left wall is
a line relief showin;,' the defeased and a companion at table; on the rear
wall are three seated figures. — Another Tomb Recess, belonging to Amen-
emhet, priest of Amon, has fine reliefs and well-preserved colouring;
in the rear wall appears the deceased, to whom attendants bring food and
drink, and on the side-walls are the deceased and his wife Mimi, etc.
After skirting the bxishy river-bank for about V4hr. we reach the
South Monuments, offering a picturesque appearance as seen from
the Nile. The chief of these are two Recesses ( cenotaphs) about G ft.
deep, which lie close beside each other. The architraves over the
entrances are adorned with concave cornices and Uraeus-serpents
and are borne by clustered columns. That to the N. (right) was con-
structed by Ainenephthes ( Merenptah ), in the first year of his reign ;
it represents the king sacrificing to Havakhte, Ptah, and the Nile-
god (on the right), and to Amon, Mut, and Khons (oti the left).
Beneath is a lonii; hymn to the Nile and lists of offerings to be made
to the river-god. On each of the narrow side-walls are injured
reliefs of the king sacrificing to the gods. — The scenes in the S.
recess are repetitions of these, except that Anienephthes is replaced
by Ramses II., who constructed the recess in the first year of his
reign. — On the rock between these rece-ses is a door-shaped Stele,
on which King Ainenephthes is shown presenting a figure of the
goddess of truth to Amon ; the king is followed by a prince and by
the vizier Penehsi, wlio erected tliis stele to his master. — Farther
to the S. is another <SJeJe, on which Amenephthes sacrifices to Amon,
while behind him is Roi, high-priest of Amon, who dedicated this
monument.
On a curious isolated sandstone rock, to the right, is a Stele of
the 6th year of liamses III., showing the king sacrificing to Amon,
Harakhte, and the god of the Nile. On the same rock, to the left,
appears a priest revering the names of Sethos I. — Farther to the S.,
and at a lower level than those steles , is another and much ruined
recess, dating from the reign of Sethos I. On the river-bank are
traces of an ancient flight of steps descending to the stream.
to Assxdn. KOM OMBO. 21. Route, 341
A wider curve thTOugh the desert carries the railway past the
river-deflle of Silsileh. The train then again approaches the river and
traverses a district wliirh has only lately been brought under fultiva-
tion'(see below).
1021/2 M. Kom Ombo (Hot. Kom Ombo, at the station, the pro-
perty of the undermentioned company, pens. 40-50 pias., good) is
a recently founded village, with the headquarter.* of the Egyptian
company of the Domaine du Wadi Kom Ombo. On the bank of the
Nile are the large puniping-works of the lompany, conspiruous for
miles around by their tall chimney, by which tlie waters of the Nile
are raised to a height of about 80 ft. and used on land that has
hitherto been absolutely barren. Nearly 23,000 acres have already
been brought under cultivation, and when all the new machinery is
at work it is estimated that 31,000 acres can be laid tinder water.
The pumpinii-works are connected by a trolley-line with the railway
station, wliere a factory dcal.s with the sugar-cane raised in the
reclaimed area. — The Temple of Kom Omho (p. 349) may be
reached in 1/2 hr. on donkey-back [5 pia.*. with bakshi.sh of 3 pias,).
— The train next traverses a reclaimed district, iater.sected by em-
bankments and oanals.
107 M. Daraw (Darau) n large village with 13,515 inhab. and
several mosques, marks the boundary between the Arabic and Nubian
languages. Fans, baskets, and other Nubian articles may be pur-
chased here very cheaply.
The line approaches the river and passes fine groves of palms
as it traverses the granite district of Assuan. — 1221/2 M. El-Khat-
tdra. On the left bank appears the hill of tombs (p. 358), with the
picturesque grave of a sheikh. In the Nile here is the large island
of £aftr?/- (p. 352). — 130 M. Gezlreh {Gezeireh, p. 362), the station
for the N. part of Assuan. — Passing the camp of the Bisharin Arabs
(p. 356) and traversing the old Arab cemeteries we reach —
132 M. Assuan (p. 353).
22. From Luxor to Edfu by the Nile.
Comp. the Map, p. 241.
65 M. TouKiST Steamer, up in 10, down in 7 hrs. — Steamer of the
Corapagnie des Bateaux-Omnibus from Luxor to Esneh, see p. 252.
Lux-or, see p. 251. — The picturesque forms of the Arabian
side of the Nile remain long in view, the colossi of Memnon being
the last of the ruins to disappear. On the W. bank is Metis, with a
steam-pump. Sugar-cane fields occupy the W. bank. A large is-
land is passed. — In ca. 2 hrs. the steamer reaches —
91/2 M. (W. bank ) Erment (Armani; railway station, p. 332).
The Nile describes a wide curve. — On the W. bank, opposite a
large island, rises (^181/2 M.) the long ridge of Uehelein (p. 333). —
Farther on, on the same bank, is El-Matd'neh (rail, station, p. 333).
342 Route 22. ESNEH. From Luxor
The river-banks are picturesquely claii with extensive groves of
palms, but the smoking chimneys of the sugar-factories interfere
with the beauty of the scenery. The steamer passes the Barrage of
Esneh by means of a lock (262 ft. long) next the W. bank. The bar-
rage was constructed in 1906-9 by Messrs. John Aird & Co. (p. 372)
at a cost of £E 1,000,000. It is 955 yds. long, 20 ft. broad at the
top, and rises 30 it. above the Nile at its lowest. Its 120 sluices
are intended mainly to regulate the irrigation of the province of
Keneh. On both banks of the river are large canals with slui(;es.
36 M. (W. bank) Esneh, or Ema (^Neri) Orand Hotel, modest, K.
8 pias., on the river-bank ), is also a railway station (p. 333; steam-
boat to Luxor, see p. 252). Esneh, which in antiquity adjoined the
town oi Enit, was one of the most important places in Upper Egypt.
Its Egyptian name was Te-snet, whence came tlie Coptic Sne and
the Arabic Esneh. The Greeks called it Latopolis, after the latoi,
a kind of fish venerated here. Esneh is now a district-capital with
19,103 inhab., and has post and telegraph offices, a druggist's shop,
and numerous coffee-houses. The Mud1r7yeh, Post Office, Tribunal
Somrnaire (^with the telegraph office), and other public buildings
stand in the street skirting the Nile. On the old quay, near the
mudiriyeh, are some fragmentary inscriptions and the remains of a
nilometer of the Roman imperial epoch. A road leading to the right
from the river-bank brings us to the cliief object of interest, still to
a large extent buried in de'bris, viz. the —
*Templb of Khnum, the ram-headed local deity, associated with
whom were Neith (identified by the Greeks with Athena) and Satet.
The extant edifices were built in the Ptolemaic period and extended
and embellished with inscriptions and reliefs by various Roman
emperors. The fagade, 120 ft. wide and 50 ft. high, is turned towards
the E. and is crowned by a concave cornice, in which stand the
names of Claudius and Vespasian. On the architrave below, on each
side of the winged sun-disk, are the votive inscriptions of these em-
perors. Vespasian is referred to as lord of 'Rome the capital'. The
vestibule, which belongs almost entirely to the Roman imperial
epoch, is the only portion that has been excavated as far as the pave-
ment. It corresponds in arrangement to the pronaos of the temple
of Hathor at Dendera (p. 246) ; it is 108 ft. broad and 54 ft. deep.
The roof, which is embellished with astronomical representations,
is borne by 24 columns (in 4 rows), with elaborate floral capitals
and decorated with reliefs and inscriptions. Each column is 37 ft.
high and 173/4 ft. in circumference; the first six are connected by
stone screens. — The walls are covered with four rows of representa-
tions, showing emperors in the costume of the Pharaohs before the
various gods of Esneh. In the middle of the Rear Wall(W.^ a por-
tal (now built up), resembling a pylon and crowned with a concave
cornice, gave access to the inner parts of the temple. The reliefs and
inscriptions upon it date from the reign of Ptolemy VI. Philometor.
to Edfu. EDFU. 22. Rule. 343
On each side is a smaller door (^built up); to the right of that on
the left appears Decius sacrificing to the ram-headed Khnum. —
Towards the foot of the iV. Wall is a relief of the falcon - headed
Horus, the Emperor Commodus, and Khnum drawiiiisr a net full of
water-fowl and fishes; to the left stands the ihis-headed Thout, to
the right the goddess Seshet. — Adjoining the E. Wall, at the screen
immediately to the left of the entrance, a small chapel has been
added. — Inscriptions and representations were placed also on the
Outer Walls by the Roman emperors.
In the neighbourhood of Esneh are the remains of seTeral Coptic Con-
vents AND CuuKCHES. About 3'A M. to the S. is the Convent 0/ SS. Manaos
and Sanulios, which is said to have been founded by the Empress Helena.
It possesses a new and an old church, the latter containing some ancient
frescoes, now covered with whitewash. — About 5'/z Jl. to the N. is the
Deir Anba Matteos, or convent of St. Matthew, with interesting frescoes;
and V2 M. to the W. is an ancient Church hewn out of the rock, also
with frescoes.
The village of El-Hilleh (El-Hella), on the E. bank opposite
Esneh, stands on the site of the ancient Contra- Latopolis. The
temple, dating from the later Ptolemies, has left not a trace behind.
— In the Nile is the cultivated island of Er-Riklyeh; on the W.
bank of the river lies the village of Es-Sibd'yeh (rail, station, on
the E. bank, p. 333).
At El-Kanndn, on the W. bank, there are ancient river-embank-
ments. On the W. bank stretches a broad and fertile plain, on the
E. is the finely shaped Gebel Sheroneh. In the river is another large
island. — At El-Khawi (El-Khewa), on the E. bank, appears the
first sandstone.
On the W. bank, about 3/4 lir. farther to the S. , near the village
of Basallyeh (El-Basalia), is the pyramid of El-Kula, which now
presents the aspect of a step-pyramid, owing to the decay of the
filling -in material. This pyramid is still about 30 ft. high, while
its base occupies an area of about 350 square yards.
On the E. bank lie El-Mahaintd (rail, station, p. 333) and
(44 M.) El-Kdb, with its ruined town and rock-tombs (p. 333).
65 M. Edfu.
Edfu.
The Tourist Steamers spend a night here on their upward journey. The
PMiliBay Station (p. 337) is opposite the town, on the E. bank.
Primitive and yet somewhat expensive quarters are offered by the
small 'Hotel', which is kept by a Greek (bargain advisable). — Donkeys
are to be had at the landing-place.
Edfa, a district-capital with 14,900 inhab. (including the sub-
urbs), was called in antiquity That, Coptic Atho, whence is derived
the modern Arabic name Edfu. The Greeks called it Great Apollo-
nopolis, after its chief god Horus- Apollo. It was the capital of the
second nome of Upper Egypt, the Apollonopolites of Gneco-Roman
times. Uorus, who, according to the myth, here waged one of his
great combats with Seth (comp. pp. cxliii, 236), was suruamed 'he
Babdekeu's Egypt. 7th Edit. 22
344 Route 22. EDFU. Temple
of Behtet', Behtet being probably a district of ancient Edfu ; he was
represented as a flying falcon, as a man with a falcon's head, or as
the sun with outspread wings.
The way from the landing-place to the (20 min.) Temple of
Horus leads almost due W., then, turning to the N. (right), skirts
the Canal of Edfu and crosses it by a bridge. It then proceeds to
the W. through several streets and finally turns N. again for a short
distance. — The bridle-path ends at the N. gate of the later girdle-
wall. Route from the railway station of Edfu, see p. 337.
The **Temple of Horus, built of sandstone, stands in wonderful,
almost perfect preservation, exceeding that of any other Egyptian
temple or even of any antique building in the world, in spite of the
2000 years that have passed over it. Unfortunately the faces of the
kings and gods in the reliefs all over the temple were scratched out
in the Christian period. The present temple occupies the site of an
earlier sanctuary and was dedicated to the sun-god Horus, Hathor of
Dendera, and the youthful Horus. 'Uniter of the Two Lands' (Har-
gem-tewe, Harsomtus). The history of its construction and a de-
scription of the entire structure are detailed in lengthy inscriptions
on the exterior of the girdle-wall (at PI. i and fc). The temple proper
was begun in 237 B.C. by Ptolemy III. Euergetes I. and com-
pleted, so far as the masonry was concerned, by his successor
Philopator in 212 B.C. The decoration of the walls with reliefs
and inscriptions , postponed by the death of Philopator and the
disturbed reign of Epiphanes his successor , was resumed in
176 B.C. under Philometor and completed in 147 B.C. (under Euer-
getes II.), i.e. 90 years after the laying of the foundation-stone.
Euergetes II. built the great vestibule (completed 122 B.C.) and
embellished it with reliefs, and under Ptolemy X. Soter II. and
Ptolemy XI. Alexander I. the colonnaded court, the girdle -wall,
and the pylon were added, though the reliefs on the latter date from
Neos Dionysos. The final touch was given in 57 B.C.
The temple was originally surrounded by a lofty Brick Wall^
still partly preserved, pierced by a large gateway on the S., in the
axis of the temple, and by a smaller gateway to the W.
The great Pylon stood in an inner girdle-wall of brick, aud its
entrance was closed by a double door. It is covered on all sides
with reliefs and inscriptions. On the front of each of the towers
the colossal figure of the King Neos Dionysos is conspicuous, smiting
his foes, whom he holds by the hair, in presence of the falcon-
headed Horus of Edfu and Hathor of Dendera. In two rows, above,
the king appears praying and offering sacrifices before Horus, before
Hathor and Horus, 'Uniter of the two lands', and before other gods
of Edfu. The four wide incisions, two on each side of the central
portal, were intended to support large flag-staffs, which were further
secured by means of clamps fastened in the holes still to be seen
in the masonry directly above. The small rectangular apertures in
Girdle Wall
W.Tower
E.To wer
jgmfLE m HQRjJj§ A\¥ iiry
rraved A printed by
Wagnw * Debes, Leipiij
of Jioru?. ET)FU. 22. Routf. 345
the towers served to admit light and air to the chambers and stair-
rases within (see p. 347).
A passage leads through each pylon-tower to the outside of the girdle-
wall, which is embellished with colossal reliefs (Ptolemy XI. before the
gods of Kdfu) and bears the inscriptions mentioned at p. 344. In front
of the pylon stand two colossal falcons in dark granite. One has the
ligure of a priest in Roman costume before it.
The Court, between the pylon and the vestibule, is a spacious
enclosure, paved with broad flags and surrounded on three sides
by a covered colonnade of 32 columns. In this court rose the
great altar upon which oflerings were made to the gods of Edfu
in presence of the assembled people. The columns supporting the
roof of the colonnade are embellished with rich floral and palm
capitals. The incised reliefs on the shafts show the king before
Horus and the other gods of Edfu; the name of the king has not
been inserted in the inscriptions. On the rear walls of the colon-
nades are three rows of large reliefs, showing the Pharaoh (Ptolemy
Soter II. or Ptolemy Alexander) in communion with the gods or
triumphing over his foes, as the earthly representative of Horus.
The same representations occur over and over again in wearisome
repetition throughout the temple.
On the S. wall (PI. a), to the left of the entrance : 1. The king, wear-
ing the crown of Lower Egypt, quits his palace in order to visit the
temple; a priest offers incense in front of him. 2. Horus and Thout pour
the water of consecration upon the king. — These scenes are repeated tu
the right of the entrance (Pi- *), where, however, the king wears the
crown of Upper Egypt.
The doors to the right and left of u and b lead to the staircases
in the interior of the pylon (ascent, see p. 347). The E. and W.
exits (PI. c) are built up.
The back of this court is formed by the front of the vestibule,
which is crowned by a concave cornice. On each side of the
large portal are three stone screens between the columns. Upon
these, facing the court, are reliefs representing Euergetes II. with
pendent arms or offering sacrifice to Hathor of Dendera (on the two
central screens) or to the falcon -headed Horus of Edfu (on the
others). To the left of the entrance stands a colossal falcon with
the double crown ; the corresponding falcon on the right lies on
the ground.
The Vestibule, or Pronaos, has 12 columns with elaborate floral
capitals. The ceiling is covered with astronomical representations,
now blackened almost beyond recognition. On the walls are four
rows of incised reliefs, showing Euergetes sacrificing to the gods
and performing other religious rites , such as the ceremonies at
the foundation of the temple, etc. Above are a row of astronomical
reprcj-entations and a frieze consisting of the names of the king
guarded by two falcons. Close to the pavement we see Euergetes and
his wife Cleopatra and a long procession of local deities bringing
sacrificial gifts to the three chief gods of Edfu. — To the right and
22*
346 Route 22. EDFU. Temple
left of the entrance are two small Chapels. One (PI. d) is the 'Con-
secration Cliambei", as is indicated by the relief on the rear wall, re-
presenting Horus (r.) and Thout (1.) pouring consecrated water upon
the king. The chapel to the right (PI. c) was the library; upon its
walls is a catalogue of the books preserved here. On the left wall
Seshet, goddess of literature, appears writing upon a palm-branch.
— A side-door (PI. /") in the E. wall of the hall admits to the inner
passage (p. 347) round the temple. — Above the door in the N.
wall of the vestibule is a curious representation. Ptolemy Philo-
pator offers an image of the goddess of truth to the boat of the sun,
which appears guided by two figures of the falcon-headed Horus as
pilot and helmsman. In the boat the sun is adored by Thout (1.) and
Neith (r.). In an attitude of worship, at the sides, are Four Senses :
to the right sight and hearing, to the left taste and reason.
Next follows the Hypostyle Hall, the roof of which is borne
by 12 columns witli rich floral capitals. Apertures near the top of
the walls and in the ceiling admit light to this hall. The represent-
ations on the walls resemble those of the preceding great vestibule.
Of the adjoining side-chambers, two (PI. xviii and xix) served as
accesses to the inner passage round the temple, one (PI. xvii) was a
laboratory, while from another (PI. xx) the great E. staircase led up
to the roof of the temple (comp. p. 347).
On each side of the adjoining First Antkchamber is an approach
to one of the Staircases leading to the temple-roof. The mural re-
liefs on the staircases resemble the corresponding reliefs at Den-
dera (p. 249). On that on the E. (PI. xvi) is a procession of priests
ascending, headed by the king; on that on the W. (PI. xiv) is the
same descending. The corridors and chambers on the roof contain
nothing of interest, those to the E. were probably intended for the
cult of Osiris. — On the E. of the Second Antechambek we enter
a small Sacrificial Court, in which (to the N.) is an elegant little
Kiosque, with two columns with floral capitals supporting the roof.
Upon the ceiling is Nut, goddess of the sky, beneath whom appear
various forms of the sun in boats. — To the left of the Second An-
techamber is a small Room (PI. xi) dedicated to the god Min.
In the Sanctuary the most interesting Reliefs are those in the
lower row on the right (E.) wall. 1. The king (Philopator) removes
the lock from the shrine of Horus. 2. He opens the door of the
shrine. 3. He stands in a reverential attitude, with pendent arms,
before the god. 4. He offers incense to his deified parents, Euergetes I.
and Berenice. 5. He offers incense before the sacred boat of Hathor,
By the rear wall is a granite shiine (PI. I), with a pointed roof,
dedicated to Horus by King Nekht-Har-ehbet. This is a relic of
the original pre-PtoIemaic temple (p. 344). In front of the shrine
is a pedestal of dark granite (found in another part of the temple),
intended to support the sacred boat and indicated by an inscription
as the votive gift of a private citizen.
of HoruK EDFU. 2'2. Route. 347
The sanctuary is surrounded by a Co&ridok from which ten small
Side Chambers (PI. i-x) open. These, used for various religious rites and
for store-rooms, are adorned with reliefs and are faintly lighted by boles
in the roof. In the flooring of each of the corner-rooms (PI. iii and viii)
is the entrance to a crypt, formerly closed by a stone slab.
Wo return to the hypostyle hall and pass through Room xix
to the Inner Passage between the exterior of the temple proper
HUil the interior of the girdle-wall. On the outside of the temple
walls are lions" heads as water-spouts and four rows of religious
reliefs. At the foot of the wall appear the king, the queen, and
a procession of local deities approaching the three chief gods of
Edfu. On the inner side of the E. girdle-wall (PI. hh) the king ap-
pears before the various gods of Edfu ; on the N. wall (PI. gg) are
similar scenes and long hymns to the god of Edfu. On the W.
wall (PI. mm) are more important reliefs representing the contests
of the god Horns with his enemies, who are depicted as crocodiles
and hippopotami.
The chief are the following: 1st Scene (below, to the right). The king,
standing on shore, attempts to translix a hippopotamus, which bends its
head aside. Ilorus does the same : in his left hand he holds a chain, and
in his right a javelin; beside him is his mother Isis, and behind, at the
helm, is a small Horus. — 2nd Scene. The king appears on land (to the left),
before two ships, in each of which are a Horus and an assistant. Horus
holds the hippopotamus with a chain and pierces its head with a javelin. —
5th Scene. The hippopotamus lies on its back, with a chain fastened to
its hind-feet. — 7th SceM. Horus, in a ship with expanded sail, aims a
blow at the head of a hippopotamus, the hind-foot of which is caught in
a line held in the god's left hand. Isis kneeling in the bow of the boat
holds the head of the animal by a cord. The king, standing on the bank
with two attendants, seeks to pierce the skull of the hippopotamus. —
Farther to the left (opposite the pylon): The king, the ram-headed Khnum,
the falcon-headed Horus, and the ibis-headed Thout are dragging a net,
in which are not only water-fowl, fishes, and a stag, but also two Asiatics
and some negroes, the ancestral foes of Egypt.
A subterranean staircase leads from the E. part of the passage
round the temple to an ancient isUometer, a round well situated
outside the temple, and encircled by a spiral staircase which was
formerly also reached from without. On the walls of the latter is the
scale, with demotic numbers. The subterranean communication with
the river has been interrupted.
Finally, an *Ascent to thk Top of the Pylon is recommended.
The doors on the S. side of the Court (to the right and left of PI. n
and b) lead into dark chambers, from each of which an easy staircase
of 242 steps in 14 flights ascends to the platforms of the towers.
Doors on the landings of the staircase admit to small chambers,
constructed in the solid masonry and lighted, like the staircases, by
means of small window-openings (see pp. 344, 345). The stair-
cases in the two towers are connected with each other by a pass-
age running above the central portal; and in each tower there is a
door affording access to the roof of the colonnade in the court. On
the roof of the W. colonnade are the workmen's drawings for th(!
concave cornice of the pylon. The view from the top is unusually
348 Route 22. EDFU.
attractive, commanding not only the most imposing survey of the
temple-buildings, but also ranging over the plain through which
the Nile flows, with its verdant crops and its villages fringed with
palms and mimosas, framed by the desert-mountains in the distance.
The Birth House lies to the W. of the entrance to the great
temple of Horus. It was built by Ptolemy IX. Euergetes II., while
the interior decorations date from Soter II. It is surrounded by a
colonnade, supported by pillars bearing figures of Bes (comp. p. 250).
Besides the main chamber there is a vestibule adjoined by two
small rooms. A staircase leads to the right from the vestibule to
the roof.
Main Chamber. On the right wall: Hathor of Dendera nurses Uorns,
while seven other Hathors play musical instruments. Behind the goddess
is her youthful son Ehi-wer, with a sistrum. To the right is the con-
linement of Hathor, to the left the king holding two sistra, in presence
of seven other Hathors. The king before various deities and (left) before
the sacred boat of Hathor. On the left wall are scenes referring to the
birth of Harsomtus (Khnum shaping the child on the potter's wheel, etc.).
The Court in front of the Birth House was enclosed with columns
connected by stone screens. On the shafts of the columns are gods
with musical instruments.
23. From Edfu to Assnan by the Nile.
Comp. the Map, p. 244.
68 M. Steamboat to Gebel Silsileh In 4 hrs. ; thence to Kom Omho in
3 hrs. ; and thence to Assuan in 6 hrs.
Edfu, see p. 343. — On the E. bank, about 5 M. above Edfu, is
the village of Redesiyeh (El-Redesia, Rodsieh), after which a Temple
of Sethos /., lying 37 M. to the E., has been named (see p. 376). —
Farther along the E. bank (12 M. from Edfu), on the mountain-
slopes approaching close to the river near the hill Es-Sirdg, are
the picturesque remains of a late -Byzantine fortified town (per-
haps the ancient Thmuis), with a church or convent. In the neigh-
bourhood are ancient quarries with inscriptions (one of Thut-
mosis III.). The nuramulite limestone of the hills here gives place
to sandstone (comp. p. Ixix), which has furnished the material for
most of the gigantic buildings of Upper Egypt.
I8V2 M. (E. bank) Silweh (rail, station, p. 337).
26 M. Gebel Silsileh ('Mountain of the Chain' ; so called from a
chain that is said once to have blocked the passage of the river).
The hills on the two banks of the river approach close together, and
in very ancient times there were probably rapids at this point (like
those at Assuan, p. 363). These were regarded as the beginning
of the Nile, and even in later periods the Nile-god Harpi enjoyed
special reverence at Silsileh, where great festivals were held in his
honour.
KOM OMBO. 23. Route. 349
Above the defile of Gebel Silsileh the landscape changes its
character. The mountains recede from the river, giving space to
the desert, which appears grey on the Arabian side and yellow on
the Libyan side. The narrow cultivable strip is tilled by peasants of
a distinctly darker complexion than the fellahin of the Thebaid.
Both land and people approach gradually nearer to the Nubian type.
On the E. bank lies AklU. — At the village of Momha (E. bank )
we enter the E. branch of the stream , which here encircles the
island of Man.idr'iyeh, with a village of the same name.
On the E. bank are the large pumping-works of the Kom Ombo
Co. (p. 341). On a hill and conspicuous from a considerable
distance appear the ruins of the beautiful temple of K6m Ombo,
especially picturesque by the light of the full moon. The islands
opposite the E. bank were, perhaps, in former times united with the
mainland, or separated from it only by a narrow channel; but in the
course of centuries the Nile has gradually extended its channel
farther and farther to the E. ; and during the 19th cent, alone about
20 ft. were washed away from the E. bank, along with a large por-
tion of the building. An embankment has been constructed to
prevent further mischief.
4IV2 M. Kom Ombo (railway station, see p. 341 ), the 'Hill of
Ombos', lies about 50 ft. above the average surface-level of the Nile.
The ancient Egyptian city of Ombos probably owes its foundation to
the strategic importance of its site, upon a hill commanding both
the Nile and the routes from Nubia to the Nile valley. Yet the town
attained no great prosperity until the Ptolemaic era, when it was
converted from an ordinary provincial town into the capital of the
separate nome of Ombites. It was at this era that the mighty temples
were built, which excite our admiration to-day ; the earlier sanc-
tuaries have left scarcely a trace. Ombos possessed two chief gods —
the crocodile-headed SobekfSuchos) and the falcon-headed Haroerh.
With the former were specially associated Hathor and the youthful
uioon-god Khons-Hor ; with the latter, the 'Good Sister' [T-seni-
nofret, a special form of Ilathor) and the 'Lord of Both Lands'
(I'-neb-tewe). The ruins of the town, now buried in sand, lie in
the N.E. corner of the plateau. In 1893 all the temple-buildings
in the S. part of the plateau were cleared of rubbish and restored
under the directions of Do, Morgan. A marble tablet on the right
door of the vestibule (p. 351) commemorates the fact.
From the landing-place, to the S. of the hill, a road skirts the
river to (5 min.) a modern flight of steps, which ascends to the
principal entrance. Tickets of admission should not be forgotten.
The temple -precincts were enclosed by a brick girdle -wall.
The entrance is formed by a massive Pylon, erected by Ptolemy
Neos Dionysos. Only the right (E.) half is now standing; the
other has sunk in the river. The reliefs show Neos Dionysos pre-
senting various oflerings to the gods of Ombos. We enter the —
350 Route 23. KOM OMBO. From Edfu
*Great Temple of Sobek andHaroeris. This temple was built on
a uniform plan in the Ptolemaic period and embellished with re-
liefs by Philometor, Euergetes II., and Neos Dionysos. The reliefs
in the court and on the outer walls, however, were added under the
Roman emperors, more especially under Tiberius. The Ptolemaic
reliefs are easily distinguished from those of the emperors, as they
are in low relief while the latter are 'en creui'. In its general
arrangements the temple of Ombos resembles other temples of the
same period (^at Dendera, Edfu, and Philae), but it differs from
them in being dedicated to two deities instead of to one only. Each
of these two deities had his own special worship and festivals, so
the entire building is bisected longitudinally by an imaginary line,
each half having its own gateways, doorways, and chapels. The S.
or right half was dedicated to Sobek, the N. or left half to Haroeris.
The Pylon, at the entrance to the temple-court, had two doors.
The left wing has completely vanished ; while only the lower part
of the central pillar (between the doors) and of the right wing
remain.
On Ihe outer side (facing the i-iver) of the right wing are the follow-
ing representations, from left to right; PI. a. Sobek, Hathor, and Khons-
Hor, the gods worshipped in the right half of the temple. PI. b. Hiero-
glyphic text of 52 lines. PI. c. Emp. Domitian, with the crown of Upper
Egypt, accompanied by 14 gods and goddesses, otTering gifts to the above
mentioned deities.
At the corner to the right (above PI. c) the upper row of representations
also has been preserved: six demi-gods (the last three, the 'Souls of Hiera-
konpoHs', with dogs' heads) carry the newly crowned king (defaced) to
his palace, on a portable throne; they are followed by the symbols
"¥" ('life') and ('happiness'), bearing images of the gods on long poles;
finally a large figure of the king, preceded by a priest otTering incense and
followed by his guardian-spirit (with a king's head upon a sceptre).
The Court, as at Edfu, was surrounded on three sides by colon-
nades. Only the lower portions of the 16 columns are now left.
The reliefs on these, the colouring of which is in places admirably
preserved, represent Tiberius sacrificing to the gods. On the inner
side of the right wing of the pylon are two doors, one of which
(PI. d} admits to a small apartment, while the other (PI. e) leads to
a staircase by which the roof of the pylon was gained. The square
base in the centre of the court was probably an altar; let into the
ground beside it are two small granite troughs. In this, as in all
the other rooms of the temple, the ancient pavement is in excellent
preservation. The rear of the court is separated from the adjoining
pronaos by stone screens, which are pierced by two large portals
and two smaller doorways. On the screen to the right (PI. f) is a
relief of the falcon-headed Horus and the ibis-headed Thout pour-
ing the water of consecration upon King Neos Dionysos, to the left of
whom is the crocodile-headed Sobek, the lord of the right half of
the temple. On the left screen (PI. g) the same scene takes place
TiMFLi m RQjii! @mm^
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to A3sudn. ROM OMBO. I'S. Route. 351
before the falcon -headed Haroeris, to whom the left half of the
temple is dedicated. The screens are crowned by a row of serpents,
with sun-disks on their heads.
The Vestibule, or Pronaos, contains 10 columns with rich floral
and palm capitals. On the shafts appears Neos Dionysos sacrificing
to the gods. The ceiling of the two main aisles is embellished with
flying vultures ; while the under side of the architraves supporting
this ceiling bears astronomical designs (star-gods in their boats, etc.).
We may observe the lines dividing the surface into squares to guide
the artist in drawing the figures, and also some older sketches that
were not carried to completion. The mural reliefs here are espe-
cially beautiful, the finest being that to the right of the N. portal
(on screen h). We here see the king (Neos Dionysos) , in pre-
sence of Haroeris (to the right), being blessed by a lion-headed Isis
and the falcon-headed Harsiesis, on the right, and by the goddess
Nut and the ibis-headed Thout, on the left.
The remaining mural reliefs may be inspected by those who are not
pressed for time. On Screen i: the guardian -goddesses of Upper and
Lower Egypt blessing the king (Neos Dionysos); to the left stand the cro-
rodile-headed Sobek and his companion Hathor. — To the left, above
Ihe small Door k: Neos Dionysns sacrificing to four fabulous monsters
(including a winged lion with four heads); the animals have been scratched
ont. — Opposite, on Wall I, are three rows. Bottom Row : to the right are
Energetes II. and Cleopatra (upper parts wanting) in presence of Sobek
and his fellow-gods Hathor and P-neb-tewe; in the middle, the king before
the falcon-headed Haroeris and the 'good sister'; to the left Euergefes
presents the temple of Ombos to Sobek and Hathor. Middle Row: to the
right the king (wanting) sacrifices to Osiris enthroned, Isis (before whom
is her youthful son), and Nephthys ; in the middle Euergetes presents flowers
to the earth-god Keb and Ihe sky-goddess Nut ; to the left Euergetes offers
two jars of wine to Show and the lion-headed Tefnut. Top Row: to the
right, the king (wanting) l)efore Haroeris, the 'good sister", and P-neb-tewe;
in the middle he offers an ornament to Sobek and Khons-Hor; to the left
Euergetes oflers milk to Sobek and Hathor. — On Walt m, to the left of
the left entrance to the next room, are three rows of similar scenes.
The Hyposttle Hall is entered by two doors. Its ceiling,
which was lower than that of the pronaos, was supported by
10 columns with floral capitals. On each shaft Euergetes II. is
shown sacrificing to a god ; the mural reliefs show lum in communion
with the gods. The relief on the left (N.) wall should be noticed :
the falcon - headed Haroeris presents the curved sword to Euer-
getes II., behind whom are his sister Cleopatra and his wife of the
same name. The sacred crocodile of Ombos is represented at PI. «,
between the doors leading from the pronaos.
Between the doors leading hence fo the inner rooms of the temple are
reliefs showing Philometor, elder brother of Euergetes II., sacrificing to
the falcon-headed Haroeris.
The following three smaller Antechambers, each of which lies
a little higher than the preceding, also are embellished with fine
reliefs. Adjoining are a number of side-chambers, whioh may have
been used as store-rooms; those to the left (N.) have almost com-
pletely disappeared. On the rear wall of Antechamber III, between
352 Route 'J3. KOM OMBO.
tlie doors, is a fine relief: Philometor, clad in a white luautle ami
accompanied by Cleopatra, stands before the falcon-headed moon-
god Khons, who writes the name of the king upon a palm-branch,
from which hangs the symbol for length of life; behind are Sobek
and Haroeris, the chief gods of Ombos.
Two doors lead from Antechamber III to the two Sanctuaeies, of
which that to the left (PI. /?) was dedicated to Haroeris, that to the
right (PI. S) to Sobek. In each is a pedestal of black granite on which
the sacred boat with the image of the god was placed. Beside and
behind these sanctuaries are smaller apartments with crypts.
Two small side-doors lead from the pronaos to an Inner Pass-
age round the temple proper, at the innermost part of which are
seven doors opening into as many Chambers (PI. I-VIl). These
contain unlinished reliefs and inscriptions, which are interesting
on account of their various stages of completion. la the central
room (PI. IV) is a staircase to the upper story.
On the terrace in front of the great temple lies a small Sirth
House, facing towards the S.E., and now in a most ruinous con-
dition. It was built or restored by Euergetes II. Among the extant
reliefs one (at PI. o) deserves notice. It represents Euergetes II.
with two gods sailing in a boat through the marshes , which are
bordered with papyrus-plants thronged with birds; to the left is the
ithyphallio god Min-Amon-Ue. — On the S. side is a subter-
ranean staircase (PI. p) leading to the river, on the bank of which
is a nilometer (much damaged), like that at Edfu.
Finally we visit the small unfinished Chapel of Hathor, built
of red sandstone under the Emp. Domitian. In one of its rooms
are mummies of sacred crocodiles found in the vicinity.
The terrace in front of the temple commands a beautiful *View
of the Nile and the districts on the W. bank, while from the rubbish-
mounds beside the temple we may survey the new irrigated region
beside Kom Ombo, the villages of Shatb and Daraw, the island of
Mansuriyeh, and the desert to the W.
Above Kom Ombo the channel of the river narrows. — Daraw
a railway station (p. 341), lies on the E. bank. — On the W. bank,
near Rakdbeh, are the ruins of the ancient Contra-Ombos.
The scenery becomes tamer beyond the village of Kubdnhjeh, on
the W. bank, near which are early-Egyptian cemeteries.
Opposite rises the Gebel el-Hammdm, with quarries which
yielded stone for the old temple at Ombos as early as the reign of
Hatshepsut (18th Dyn.). To the W. the yellow sand of the desert
often extends right down to the river. At Et-Khattdra (railway
station, p. 341) granite appears for the first time.
We now pass the large and well-tilled island of Bahrif(j^. 362),
with its palm-groves and fields. Opposite, near El-Wdresdb, on the
W. bank, are some quarries (with graffiti).
As we approach Assuan (E. bank) the scene presented to us is
r.aMMriaTTacS}
^ ■:^w%s"ii bh iiD
, «>'"
^ Tomb at
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A S S U A N
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Tervgar.
, ■ "^0 IflhuTiai
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p Piolmtatc
Sti),\qne
L.g. *p.. fe.,.-o^ W.,
ASSUAN. 24. Route. 353
one of great and pecnliar beanty. On the hill to the right is the
Kubbet el-Hawa fp. 360) ; straight in front of us lies the N. extrem-
ity of the island of Elephantine (p. 35~), with the Savoy Hotel.
Sandstone now gives place to masses of granite on the banks and
in the channel of the stream. On the left are the harbour, the
Roman Catholic church, and the hotels at —
68 M. Assti'tn.
24. Assuan and its Environs.
The Tourist Steamers usually remain here two days. — Railway, see
R. 21 ; the station lies to the S. of the town.
Hotels (prices highest in .Tan. and Feb.). ■Savoy Hotel (V\. a), on
the island of Elephantine fsteam-launch, see p. 357), with a large and well-
kept garden, pens, from SO pias.; 'Cataeaut Hotel (PI. h), opposite Ele-
])hantine, with lawn-trnnis courts, pens, from 80 pias. ; "Geand- Hotel
Assouan (PI. c), on the quay, pens, from CO pias. These three all belong
to the Upper Egypt Hotel Co.; the first two, with lifts and central heating,
are open in winter only (comp. p. xxii). — St. James Hotel (PI. d), on the
([uay, pens. 40-60 pias., open in winter only, Hot. -Pens. Rohrmosek (PI. e),
on the quay, pens. 40 50 pias., both less pretentious but good. — Ohezireh
Palace Hotel, on the Nile to the N. of the town. pens. 40-60 pias., new. —
Khedivial Hotel, Post Hotel, both unpretending. — Pension Neufeld
(Gorman), pens. 50 pias., with the depcndance Bab el-Wadi Camp, in the
desert 21/4 M. to the N.E. of the town (p. 362; donkey, 8 pias. and bakshish
2 pias.), open Nov. -April for suO'erers from kidney-disease and rheuma-
tism, pens. (incl. medical attendance) 60-80 pias. -- Assuan Camp Hotel, in
the desert '/^ M- to the N.E. of the town, near the golf-club and the hamlet
of Rami el-Khad:b, pens. 50-70, oran. 10 pias.
Carriages, Camels, Donkeys, and Boats, all at lixed tariffs, which may
be seen at the stands and in the railway time-table (dearer if hired through
a hotel).
Post & Telegraph Office on the river-bank. — Bank. Agency of the
Nationnl Bank of Egypt, Shriri' el-Bahr (p. 3.55). — Tourist Offices. CooVt
Office, in the Grand-Hotel Assouan; Hamburg tk Anglo-American Nile Co.,
Shari' el-Bahr (p. 355) ; office of the Sddrrn Government Railways and Steamers,
at the railway station.
Photographers (plates developed; also photographic materials, books,
etc.): Bisliareen Bataar (A. Sempad; branch of F. Diemer's Successors at Cairo,
p. 40); F. Fiorillo, near the Grand-Hotel; iV. Sigalas, at the Grand-Hotel.
Physicians. Dr. Leigh Canney (comp. p. xxi>. Dr. Neylon, Dr. Saunders,
all English; Dr. Eddy Schacht, German. German Hospital for natives at the
German Sudan Pioneer Mission. — Saeoy Pharmacy, at the Grand -Hotel
Assouan. Swedish Massage, at the Institut de Physiothcrapie, in the Shari'
el-Balir (electric light baths, sand-baths, etc.).
Churches (hours of service are notified in the hotels). Anglican : Si.
Marlc''s Church (p. 355), near the Cataract Hotel. — German Protestant Church,
Shari' el-Bahr (p. 355). — Roman Catholic Church, Shari' el-Bahr (p. 356).
Golf Links (9 holes) near the Assuan Camp Hotel (see above).
Nubian and Sudanese Articles are everywhere offered for sale : ostrich
feathers, silver rings and armlets, ivory hoops, weapons of the dervishes
(mostly, however, manufactured in Assuan or in Europe), amulets, horns,
basket work, panther-skins (generally poor and dear), and aprons of leather
fringe adorned with beads and shells (the costume of the women of the
Sudan, which they oddly call 'Madama Nubia'). Grey and black ostrich
feathers are comparatively cheap (ca. 8 pias. each), larger and perfect white
feathers cost 40-80 pias. apiece and upward. Travellers, however, will find
i' more convenient to buy these in Cairo. — ''ndanese, Indian, and Persiau
embroideries are sold by Dhanctmall Khellaram, on the (juay.
354 Route 24. ASSUAN. History.
Distribution of Time. )st Day. Elephantine (p. 351) and the Rock Tombs
on the W. bank (p. 358); in the afternoon, Assudn and its Bazaars, the
Bishdrin Camp (p. 35B), and possibly also the Granite Quarries (p. 356).
Travellers by the tourist-steamers, which arrive in the afternoon, visit
Elephantine on the same day. — 2nd Day. Island of Philae (p. 364) and the
Nile Dam (p. 371). — 3rd Day. Excursion to the Convent of St. Simeon
(p. 361; '/« day) or to Oezireh (p. 362), or a ride into the desert. — Those
who have not seen the Temple of Kdm Ombo (p. 350) on their Nile voyage
may visit it from Assuan, if time allows. The excursion takes half a day
if the start is made by the early train and the return by the midday train.
As8U(1n or Aswan (Gr. Syene, Copt. Suan), with 12,618 inhab.,
lies on the E. bank, partly on the plain and partly on a hill, in N.
lat. 24° 6'. The fertile strip here is narrow, but supports numerous
date-palms, the fruit of which enjoys a high reputation. This town
is the capital of the province of Assuan, the southernmost of Upper
Kgypt, which has an area of 168 sq. M. and a population of 232,813
and extends to the S. from Esneh to the boundary of the Anglo-
Egyptian Sudan. It is the seat of the provincial authorities. The
once considerable trade in the products of the Sildan and Abyssinia
has greatly fallen off since the Mahdist revolt, but on the other
hand the export trade in senna (folia Sennae; comp. p. 356) has
greatly increased. The Nile here divides into several arms, sepa-
rated by granite rocks and islands, the largest of which is Elephan-
tine (p. 357). The horizon on the W. is bounded by the Libyan
hills, on the E. by the Arabian mountains. On account of its charm-
ing situation and its equable and dry climate Assuan is much visited
as a winter resort, especially from Nov. to Feb. or even later. The
constellation of the Southern Cross is visible here in Jan. about
3 a.m. and in April about 10 p.m.
HisTORT. The district around the modern Assuan, including the island
of Elephantine, bore in antiquity the name of Yebu, or 'Elephant Land%
probably because the Egyptians here first saw the African elephant. At
a later date that name was restricted to the island and town of Elephant-
ine. From the erection of the Pyramids to the Roman period the ancient
Egyptians found material for their great temples and statues in the quar-
ries of Yebu (Syene) , which yielded fine coloured granite, containing a
large proportion of translucent quartz and of yellow, brownish, pink, and
black mica. Curiously enough, however, the term 'syenite', which was
used by Pliny, is now applied by geologists to a different variety of stone,
containing a much larger proportion of hornblende. Strategically, Yebu
commanded the Nile cataracts and the waterways between Egypt and Nubia.
It was also the starting-point of the great caravan-routes leading to Nubia
and the Sudan, along which passed the earliest commercial and military
expeditions of the Egyptians. The ancient capital of the province was
likewise named Yebu and lay on the S. side of the island (p. 358). The exis-
tence here of a Jewish military colony, with a temple of Jehovah, in the
6th and 5th cent. B.C. has been proved by the discovery of a large num-
ber of Aramaic papyri in 1906-8 (now mostly in Berlin).
Another town, named Swenel, the Syene of the Greeks, was situated on
the E. bank of the Nile, but appears not to have attained any great im-
portance until a late period. Juvenal^ the Latin satiric poet, who lived
at the beginning of tlie 2nd cent, of our era, was appointed prefect of
the garrison at Syene, or, in other words, was banished to the most remote
frontier of the empire, as a punishment for his biting attacks on the court.
A famous curiosity of ancient Syene was a well, into which the sun's rays
descended perpendicularly, casting no shadow, at midday during the summer-
Ptolemaic Temple. ASSUAN. 24. Route. 355
solstice, thus proving that Syene was situated under the tropic (which,
however, has now shifted somewhat to the S.). The report of its existence
led the learned Athenian Eratosthenes (276-196 B.C.), attached to the Museum
at Alexandria (p. 13), to the discovery of the method of measuring the si/i'
of the earth that is still employed. — The place suffered greatly at the
hands of the r.lemmyes (p. 364), but became the seat of a Christian bishop,
and appears to have rapidly regained its prosperity under the Caliphs.
Arab authors record that no fewer than 20,000 inhabitants died of the plague
at one time, a fact that points to a very large total population. After the
close of the 12th cent. Assuan suffered severely from the incursions of plun-
dering Arab tribes, finally put a stop to by a Turkish garrison stationed
here by the sultan Selim, after the conquest of Egypt in irtil.
The landing-place of the steamers lies on the river opposite the
railway station. Thence the attractive Shdri' el-Balir, or riverside-
street, skirts the Nile to the N., passing the principal public build-
ings, the Summary Tribunal, the German Sfldan Pioneer Mission,
the Grand -Hotel Assouan (beside a rock with inscriptions), and
the Miidiriyeh or Government Buildings. Opposite the last a ruined
building, for which stones of earlier buildings have been used,
projects into the river. This, known to the Arabs as El-Hammam
(the bath) and as the Bath of Cleopatra, probably dates from the
Roman period and seems to have been a lock or a tete-de-pont.
Farther on rises the lofty minaret of the chief mosque, beside which
the Shari' el-Mel.ikemeh diverges on the right for the bazaars ; then,
as we descend the river, we pass the Police Office (Markaz), the
National Bank, the St. James Hotel, the Post Office, the Govern-
ment Hospital, and the Roman Catholic Church, witli the school of
the Catholic Sudan Mission. Across the river appears the hill with
the rock-tombs and the Kubbet el-Hawa (p. 360). In the highly
picturesque inner town are the large Coptic church and the Coptic
school. — To the S. of the railway station the road leads to a hill,
now laid out as a public garden (view), with the ruins of the so-
called A'asr ei-M«Za (probably a convent) and a sheikh's tomb. Oppo-
site, on the E. side of the road, stands the English Church, built in
1899-1900 from a design by Mr. Somers Clarke in the style of a
Coptic church, virith a dome. The font is a gift of Queen Victoria.
Farther on the road reai-hes the Cataract Hotel.
Among the ruins of the ancient city to the E. of the station lies
a small Ptolemaic Temple (open to holders of the general admission
ticket, p. 200). Built by Euergetes I. and Philopator but never com-
pleted, the temple was dedicated to Isis of Syene.
The Main Postal is crowned with a concave cornice. Le/t Jamb: above,
Euergetes presenting an image of Maat to Anion; belr.w, Euergetes mak-
ing a libation of milk to a goddess, llight Jamb : above, Jiuergetes before
Min-Amon, and before Mut and Isi?. Lintel: Euergetes, in one case ac-
companied by his wife Berenice, before various deities. In the Doorway
to the right, the king before Thout; to the left, the kin<^ before Harsiesis;
above is an inscription. — The Inteeiob consists of a hall with two pil-
lars, in which stand the bases of several statues and sacred boats, and of
three chapels, the middle one of which has on its rear wall reliefs show-
ing Euergetes (once accompanied by Berenice) before the deities of Syene.
To the E. of the Cataract Hotel, on a granite rock below a stone wall
of the Roman period, i"! an inscription of the reign of Amenophis IV. : to the
356 Route 24 ASSUAN. QuarrieK
right is 3Ien, 'superintendent of works', before the figure of Amenophis III.;
to the left is Men's son Bek, chief architect at Tell el-'Amarna (p. 211),
before the figure (defaced) of Amenophis IV., upon which the sun's rays
descend.
On the hill above the Cataract Hotel is Fort Tagug, whence a
beautiful view is enjoyed , especially towards evening. Visitors
should prolong their walk along the hill, to the S., for the sake of
the views of the Nile valley, the islands, and the dam, and descend,
to the right, to the village of El-Mahatta (p. 363).
A ride (donkey or carr. there and back 6 pias.) may be taken to
the Camp of the Bishabin, situated within an Arab cemetery, s/^M.
to the E. of the town. These Beduins with their families live in
wretched tents covered with mats. Beduins of the 'Ababdeh tribe,
differing both in type and dress from the Bisharin, also have tents
here. Both tribes speak a curious language, allied to Egyptian and
other E. African dialects. They support themselves by cattle-rearing
and by trading, especially with senna-leaves, which they collect in
the desert and sell at good prices. — A fine *View is commanded
by the I'omb of Sheikh HariXn^ above the camp, to the right.
We may return via the ancient Aeab Cemeteries, which are
situated in the desert to the S. of the railway. From the railway
station these may be reached via the Sharf esh-Shellal. Each grave
was marked by a rectangle of unhewn stones and a slab bearing an
inscription. The tombs of the richer dead are small domed erections.
On the hills to the right of the road are some large mosque -like
Cenotaphs of famous saints, such as the Sheikh Mahmud, the Sheikh 'Ali,
the L;idy (Seiyideh) Zeinab, etc., whose memory is celebrated by festivals
on their birthdays (mulid), etc.
The Granite Quarries (Arab. Mahagir), from which the ancient
Egyptian builders and sculptors drew their supplies (comp. p. 364),
are situated in the hills to the S., and may be reached in ^j^ hr. either
direct from the Bisharin camp or from the town by a route leading
via the Arab cemeteries (see above) and then to the E., passing
a grove of tamarisks. Numerous blocks of granite lie where they
were left when the works were given up ; e.g. the huge block (marked
'Obelisk' on the Map) in the iV. Quarry, measuring 92 ft. in length
and IOY2 ft. in breadth at the broadest part. A moderately lofty
cliff shows manifold traces of the industry of the ancient stone-
cutters. The blocks were detached from the cliffs by boring nu-
merous holes along a prescribed line, driving wedges into these, and
then wetting the wedges. By this process tolerably smooth and
even fractures were obtained. Frequently the blocks were finished
on three sides before being finally detached. Statues , sarcophagi,
obelisks, etc., were also roughly dressed by the stone-cutters in the
quarries in order to lessen the weight for transport. The hill above
the N. quarry commands a wide prospect, including the convent of
St. Simeon (p. 361) in a desert-valley, to the W., beyond the Nile.
A massive Causeway, by which the huge blocks were conveyed to
the Nile, runs from the quarries to Assuau and is used to this day.
Elephantinf. ASSUAN. 24. Jlcute. 357
From the N. quarries we follow the jast- mentioned causeway,
which first crosses the mountain (fine view), then descends into a
picturesque valley, and finally runs along on a level to ('/2 hr.) the
S. Quarry^ which opens to the E. , facing the desert. This also
contains rough -hewn blocks ready for removal. On a rock here
may be seen an inscription with the name of Amenophis III.,
though the name and figure of the stone-cutter who carved it have
been obliterated. Beside it two trough-shaped sarcophagi have been
begun (in the Ptolemaic or in the Roman period); and in the
vicinity are the unfinished colossus of a king (covered, except the
feet, with sand), and a large quadrangular block, perhaps intended
for the shrine of a god. Farther on, near the railway, and towards
the top of the cliff, is a figure of Osiris (called Ramses by the
natives), about 20 ft. in height. This point commands a fine view
of the desert and in the direction of Philae.
If we follow the railway-line we reach the railway station of
Shellal (p. .''.63) in 1/4 hr.
The verdant island of Elephantine, with its luxuriant palm
trees, attracts all travellers. The Arabs call it merely El-Qezlreh,
i.e. 'island', or Gezlret Assuiln. It is reached by boat (feliika) in a
few minutes from the landing-place (return fare 2 pias.) or by the
steam-launch of the Savoy Hotel (1 pias. ; free to guests), and the
entire visit takes barely an hour. There are two villages on Elephan-
tine, whose inhabitants speak Nubian. Begging is common.
By far the most interesting object is the *Nilometer (Milcyds),
beside a sakiyeh on the E. side facing Assuan. After more than a
thousand years of neglect it was restored to use in 1870 in the
reign of Isnja'il, as is recorded by French and Arabic inscriptions.
On the walls of the staircase are damaged Greek inscriptions of the
imperial epoch, giving the water-levels. The scales date from the
later imperial epoch, and the ells are marked in Greek (and also in
demotic) characters. The new scale is inscribed on marble tablets.
— Strabo's description is not yet antiquated : —
'The Nilometer is a well built of regular hewn stones, on the bank
of the Nile, in which is recorded the rise of (he stream, not only the
maximum but also the minimum and average rise, for the water in the
well rises and falls with the stream. On the side of the well are marks,
measuring the height sufficient for the irrigation and the other water
levels. These are observed and published for general information. . . .
This is of importance to the peasants for the management of the water,
the embankments, the canals, etc., and to the officials on account of the
taxes. For the higher the rise of water, the higher are the taxes.'
At the head of the stone staircase leading to the nilometer, in a
pretty garden, is the Assudn Museum (open 9-4; adm. 5 pias.). It
contains an interesting collection of antiquities, mostly from Lower
Nubia, including tlie mummy of a ram from the necropolis (p. 358)
358 Route 24. ASSDAN. Elephantine.
and the mummies of a priest and a priestess of Plillae found on th«
island of Hesseh (p. 387).
Fartlier to the S., opposite the Cataract Hotel, lies a massive
ancient Embankment, many of the blocks in which were taken from
earlier edifices and bear inscriptions. The rock-inscriptions close
to the stream should be noticed also.
The entire S. part of the island is covered with great mounds
of rubbish formed by the ruins of the Ancient Town of Elephantine.
Among some brick walls a few paces to the W. of the quay we may
distinguish the foundations of a small temple , constructed with
stones brought from earlier edifices, including drums of columns
and blocks with the cartouches of Thutmosis III., Ramses III.,
and other monarchs. From an inscription on the solitary stump
of a column now standing we learn that Trajan was the builder.
About 50 paces to the W. a granite portal, once the entrance to some
large temple, dominates all this part of the island. The reliefs
upon it show Alexander II. (p. cvii), sacrificing to the ram-headed
Khnum and other deities of Elephantine. Inscribed blocks and
sculptured fragments lie scattered about. Close by is the necro-
polis of the sacred rams, whose sarcophagi are still to be seen
(for the mummies comp. pp. 357, 90). Various other buildings,
seen and described by the French Expedition, were pulled down
about the beginning of the 19th century. Among these were temples
built by Amenophis III. and Thutmosis III.
The higher parts of the island, especially a granite promontory
on the W. bank, command a fine *View of the black and brown,
rough and smooth rocks of the cataract, among which the Nile flows.
The trip round the island by smaU boat, which takes about 1 hr.
(fare for 1-3 pers., 15 pias.), is full of interest. On an islet, about
550 yds. to the S. , not far from the right bank of the Nile, are
several smoothly polished and cylindrical 'pot-holes', caused by the
action of high water. — The island between Elephantine and the
W. bank, named Atrun, Sirdar s Island, or Kitchener's Island, for-
merly belonged to Lord Kitchener and is now the property of the
government. It is covered with palms, oleanders, and pomegranates.
On the W. bank, to the N. of Elephantine, rises a hill, crowned
with the tomb of a sheikh (p. 360), in which are excavated the
*Rock Tombs of the princes and grandees of Elephantine. These,
which were opened in 1885-86 by Sir F, Grenfell (now Lord Gren-
fell), date from the close of the Ancient Empire and from the Middle
Empire and are therefore contemporary with the tombs at Beni-
hasan (p. 227), which they resemble both in construction and de-
coration. The more important tombs are now kept closed. Tickets
should not be forgotten.
Roek Tomls. ASSUAN. '24. RouU: 359
We cross the river in a small boat (_there and back, 6 pias. each
person). From the landing-place we ascend a sandy path, which
reaches the top at Tomb 31. The ancient staircase, hewn in the
rock and consisting of two parallel flights of steps with an inclined
plane between them np which the sarcophagi were drawn, is more
fatiguing. The view from the tombs is fine.
We begin with Tomb No. 25, belonging to Mekhu. This dates
from the 6th l)yn . ; and both its construction and decoration are
somewhat crude. It contains 18 roughly worked columns in 3 rows.
Between two columns opposite the entrance is a stone table with
three legs, which was perhaps used as an altar. On the rear wall,
opposite the entrance, is a false door within a recess approached
by steps and closed by a stone screen. The representations on the
walls and columns show the deceased receiving various votive gifts.
To the right of the entrance sacrifices are being made to the de-
ceased; to the left of this are agricultural scenes (ploughing; har-
vest; asses bringing home the harvest). — Adjoining is Tomb
No. 20, belonging to Sabni, son of Mekhu. The remarkable entrance
is divided by a cross-beam into two parts, the lower of which is
filled up with rubbish. The tomb-chamber contains 14 square pil-
lars. The Rear Wall represents the deceased in a boat, accompanied
by his daughters, hunting in the marshes: to the left he appears
holding the throw-stick in one hand and the slain birds in the other;
to the right he appears harpooning two fish at a blow ; in the middle
is a papyrus-thicket with birds hovering about it.
Climbing up to the right (N.) from this double tomb we pass
several others (Nos. 27, 29, 30), which are sanded up, and reach —
No. 28, that of Heke-yeb (locked). In the small chamber is a
representation of the deceased as a negro, with a dark-brown skin.
— Farther on is —
*No. 31, the fine tomb of Si-renpowet, son of Satet-hotep, and
a prince under Amenemhet II. Beyond a narrow Passage follow a
Hall with 6 square pillars (without decoration) and then a Corridor
with three recesses on each side. Each of these recesses contains
a statue of the deceased in the guise of the Osiris mummy. To the
left of the first recess is a figure of the deceased, followed by his
son. At the end of the corridor is a small i/nii, with four pillars,
on each of which appears the deceased. The lines dividing the scene
into squares for the guidance of the artist s hand may still be seen
in several of these designs. At the back of this hall opens a Recess
with good reliefs and delicately executed hieroglyphics. On the
back-wall of the recess the deceased is shown at table, with his son
before him carrying flowers ; on the right wall the mother of the
deceased sits at table, the deceased standing to the right; on the
h'it wall is the deceased with his wife and his son.
Farther on are the tombs of Ahi (No. 32), Khu'i (sanded up),
and Khunes. The first contains a recess with a representation of
Bakulkkk's Kgypt. 7th KUit. 23
360 Rou!e 24. ASSUAN. Pock Tombs.
the deceased and his wife seated at a meal in an arbour, with their
son before them. On the left wall of the tomb of Khunes are inter-
esting representations of Egyptian craftsmen : bakers, potters, metal-
workers beside a furnace, brewers, leather-workers, etc. The two
last-named tombs were used as dwellings by Coptic monks, who
have added various inscriptions. — Then follow the tomb of Khe-
nitseio (sanded up) and the Tomb of Harkhuf, with inscriptions of
great historical importance. These inscriptions appear outside the
tomb, on each side of the entrance, above and beside figures of the
deceased (to the left, Harkhuf leaning on a long staff with his
son holding a censer in front of him). The inscriptions form an
extract from the biography of Ifarkhuf, recording especially four
successful trading expeditions to Nubia, three of which were made
in the reign of Merenre (6th Dyn.) and one in that of King Nefer-
ke-re (Phiops II.), the successor of Merenre. Among the goods
brought back on the fourth journey was a dwarf.
. Adjoining is the small tomb of Pyopi-rakht ( No. 35; sanded up),
with important inscriptions on each side of the doorway. These
extol the exploits of the deceased in the campaigns led by King
Nefer-ke-re (Phiops II.) against Nubia and the Beduins dwelling to
the E. of Egypt. Farther on are the grave of Senmose and finally
the interesting tomb (*No. 86) of Si-renpowet, son of Sat-zeni, who
flourished in the reign of Sesostris I. (I'Jth Dyn.). A doorway of fine
limestone, with portraits of the deceased, admits to the Court. The
shafts of the six pillars, which here supported the roof of a colonnade,
bear Inscriptions and figures of the deceased. On the Back Wall, to
the left of the door, is a large figure of the deceased followed by his
sandal-bearer and two dogs; cattle are being brought to him (notice
the enraged bulls); he appears in a boat spearing fish. To the right
of the door is a large figure of the deceased followed by his bow-
bearer, a dog, and his three sons. Above, the deceased is shown
seated in a colonnade, with four women with flowers in front of him;
below are a woman and two men gambling. Within the tomb is a
small Halt, with four pillars. The mural paintings on stucco are
unfortunately much injured. At the foot of the walls river-scenes are
shown and on the pillars are granaries (with scribes registering the
amount of grain), brewing, and weaving. A vaulted corridor leads
hence to a second Hall with pillars and a recess. — From this tomb
we may descend to the river-bank, passing several small tombs. —
Higher up than the tombs are the remains of a Coptic convent.
The summit of the hill, which, however, is not reached without
some difficulty, is crowned by the Kuhhet el-Haiim, the small tomb
of a sheikh. It commands a very fine view (especially by full
moon) of the Nile valley, the district of the cataracts, and the
desert. — From this point we may reach the convent of St. Simeon
in 40 min., by a route leading to the S.S.W.
Convent of .<l. Simeon. ASSUAN. 2i. Route. 361
The ruined *Convent of St. Simeon (Deir Anba Sama'an) is situ-
ated on a hill in the deseit on the W. bank of the Nile. Landing
opposite the S. end of Elephantine, we follow a desert-valley, passing
several rock-tombs, and in 20 niin. reach our goal. Nothing cer-
tain is known as to the date of the origin of the convent which was
destroyed by the expedition sent to Nubia by Saladin in 1173. It
stands surrounded by a wall, over 20 ft. high, the lower part of
which is built of rough stone, the upper part of crude bricks; the
lower \V. portion is hewn out of the rock. The Main Building has
two stories. The lower story contains a large central vaulted corri-
dor, with cells opening off it on each side. On the W. wall of the
corridor is a painting (much defaced) of Christ enthroned, with the
Archangel Michael and six Apostles beside him. Each of the small
cells contained six or eight beds, some of which still remain. At
the N.W. angle is the refectory. The dilapidated staircase is con-
tinued in the S. angle to the next story, and thence to the roof. —
Below the main building are several rock-hewn cells and a rock-
chapel, with a painted ceiling and pictures of saints.
To the S.E. of the main building, between it and the girdle
wall, is the Church, comprising nave and aisles and a choir with
sacristies on each side. The roof was vaulted throughout. In the
semi-dome of the choir is a fine painting of Christ enthroned, be-
tween four angels. At the W. end of the nave, opposite the choir,
is a domed recess with a fresco of Christ with two angels bowing
before him. There are numerous Coptii- inscriptions in the sa-
cristies. — A Coptic service (comp. p. 107) is occasionally held in
this church.
From the convent we may go along the ridge in a S. direction to
C/o hr.) two Hicjii Cliffs, one of which, looking from the Cataract
Hotel like a gigantic pig, is covered with inscriptions. In 10 min.
more we reach a hill of dark stone, which affords a superb *ViEW
of the cataract district, extending on the S. to Pbil;e and on the N. to
Geztreh (p. 341), A similar view is obtained from the tomb of
Sheikh Osnian. — The direct route from the convent to the Nile
passes an extensive necropolis, on a plateau strewn with dark stones.
On the river-bank are numerous rock-tombs.
Another very interesting excursion may be made through the
Western Desert to the Quarries to the N. of the Convent of St. Simeon
(there and back 2 hrs.). From the Rock Tombs (p. 358) we first
follow the telegraph-posts and then a route, indicated by heaps of
stones, which runs to the N. to a Sandstone Quarry, stUl containing
the upper part of an obelisk with a representation and inscription
of Sethosl. We return via the village oiGharb-Assuan (West Assuan)
to the landing-stage at the Rock Tombs (p. 359).
A favourite afteruoon excursion leads to the N. from the station
23*
362 Route 24. ASSUAN. Environs
of Oezireh (p. 341 ; good cafe) to the so-called Alahaater Hill, mark-
ing the site of an ancient quartz-quarry, whence the Egyptians
obtained the necessary material for polishing hard stone. Near the
hill to the N. of this point (with rock-inscriptions of various dates)
opens the Wadi Abn Agag (see below), running thence to the E.
In addition to the trip mentioned at p. 358, pleasant afternoon
trips may be made by Boat from Assuan to the Nile islands of the
cataract district (Seheil, etc. ; p. 363), and downstream pastthe palm
and orange groves of (21/0 M.) Nag' esh-Shimeh to the (5 M.) island of
Bahr'if. On the N. end of the latter (1 V4 M. farther) is a pavilion
belonging to the Sheikh of Gezireh (p. 341), where visitors are ac-
customed to brew the tea they have brought with them.
In the case of a longer stay visits may be paid to the highly pictur-
esque Valleys of the Arabian and Libyan Desebts, which debouch in
the neighbourhood of Assuan. These excursions are made by camel.
Short Excdrsions. 1. To the KhSr el-Maba, to the S.E. of the ancient
quarries; 3 hrs. there and back. — 2. To the E. by the WddiArl)da,s far
iis the top of the plateau (views; the Gebel Garra, see below, is visible
beyond the Nile), and back to the N.W. through the Wddi Abu Agag (see
above), at the exit from which is the Bab el-Wadi Camp (p. 353); >/« day.
— '3. From the Kubbet el-Hawa (p. 360) along the picturesque hills on
the W. bank to the dam (p. 371); 4 hrs. The camels should be sent on
the night before to the Kubbet el-Hawa.
Lonoer Excursions. 1. Through the Arabian Desert to the well of
Umm Hebal, about 25 M. to the S.S.E. ; 4-5 days there and back. As the
way lies through the territory of the Bisharin Beduins, a member of that
tribe should be selected as guide. From Shellal (p. 363) we proceed to the
S.E. through the Wddi Dnera , then follow the Wddi Bavdmram past the
conspicuous sharp ridge of Gehel Kurtunos (1200 ft. ; on the left), and in
11-12 hrs. (from Shellal) reach the well of El- Muelha, in the wide and
pleasant Wddi Dim/iid (Dehmit). Thence we lay a S.E. course through the
Wddi Umm Hebal to the (7 hrs.) well of Umm Hebal. A longer (3 days) but
more picturesque route leads to the S.E. from the Wadi Abu Agag (see
above) or the Wadi Arud (see above) through the Wddi el-HUdi., which
merges into the broad Wadi el- Arab at an abandoned gold-mine; and thence
by the winding Wddi Umm Hebal to the (18 hrs. from Assuan) well of Umm
Hebal. — 2. Through the Libyan Desert to the (381/2 M.) uninhabited Oasif'
of Kdrkur (lOGO ft. ; numerous fossils); 4-5 days there and back. The route
leads from the Kubbet el-Hawa (comp. above) to the W.S.W. After about
21 M. it passes about 23/431. to the left of the conspicuous Qebel Garra (1770 ft.;
wide views), and after 16 M. more it surmounts the hill of Gebel Kdrkur
(1225 ft.), behind which lies the oasis. Comp. John Ball, Jebel Garra and
the Oasis of Kurkur (with maps; Cairo, Survey Department, 1902; 15 pias.).
Excursion to Fhilse and the Nile Dam.
Many travellers to Philoe avail themselves (for the outward journey at
least) of the Railway to Shellal (71/2 M. in V'-j hr. ; fares 6, 3, IV2 pias.). But
the Desert Rodte is preferable (1 hr.; donkey there and back 8 pias.,
bakshish '2 pias. ; carriages, see p. 353), whether we follow it throughout or
diverge from it to follow the river for part of the way. The best way to
return is to arrange to take a boat from Philae to the Nile Dam (fare from
the station of Shellal to the island and thence to the dam, 15 pias. each
person) and have donkeys or a carriage to meet us there for the return
to El-Khazan (p. 363). Or we may go on from the dam in another boat
through the Cataracts to Assuan (fare 15 pias. each pers.). — Provisions
and tickets of admission should not be forgotten.
of As^mi'm. PHlLiE. . 1>J. Route. oOo
The Railway (station, see p. 353) runs through the desert in
a wide curve round the N. and S. granite quarries (p. 356) and ends
at the station of Shellal (^see helow).
The Dksbkt Route leads from the railway station past the
English church (p. 355) to the height with the Arab sheikh's grave
(p. 360) and then descends into the valley. Beyond the grove of
tamarisks (p. 356) we reach the old road described by Strabo, who
assigns it a length of 50 stadia. At the little British cemetery our
route is joined on the left by a railway constructed for the transport
of building-material for the dam. Beside the road lie large blocks
of granite , with ancient inscriptions carved by Egyptian officials,
now numbered with white numbers. About 1/2 M. beyond the ceme-
tery Is a ravine (telegraph-line) diverging towards the village of
El-Mahatta (see below). "We, however, follow the railway and skirt
the remains of an ancient Brick ^S'all, which was probably erected
as early as the Middle Empire to protect the Nile traffic against the
predatory attacks of the E. desert-tribes. The wall is 6V2lt. thick
and, at places, 13-20 ft. high, and consists of two faces of bricks
lilled up with blocks of granite. It leads as far as Shellal (see below).
The RiTERsroB Route leads from the Cataract Hotel via Fort
Tagug on the hill (p. 356) to the village of El-Mahatta, opposite
the island of Seheil.
The island of Seheil (Siheil), reached from Assuan by boat, was
dedicated to Anukis, and contains over 200 rock inscriptions, besides the
ruins of two temples. One of the temples, near the village of Seheil on
the W. side of the island, dates from the ISth Dyn., the other (to the S.),
from the reign of Ptolemy IV. Philopator. High up cm the S.E. rocks of
the island is an important inscription of the Ptolemaic period, recording
that in the reign of the primaval King Zoser (p. 146) the Nile failed to
rise during a period of seven years and that a famine arose in the land
in consequence.
The view of the stream with its numerous dark-coloured granite
rocks, covered with a smooth glaze, like enamel, is very fine, al-
though the foaming rapids of the Great Cataract are now things of
the past. — From El-Mahatta the route leads through the dirty
village of Kor&r, wedged in among the granite rocks. It then passes
the hamlet of El-Khazan, which has recently sprung up here, with
the tasteful white bungalows and pleasant gardens of the officials.
It then again turns to the E., passing a cemetery for Christian work-
men, and joins the desert-route (see above) at the tomb of a sheikh,
near the ancient brick wall.
A shorter route, diverging from the desert-route beyond the
British cemetery, leads direct (in about 1/2 ^^•) to El-Khazan and
the dam (p. 371). Thence to Shellal, see above.
The village of Shellal (Challal), where both the railway and the
desert-route end, lies on the E. bank of the Nile, opposite Philje. —
Good boats lie ready for the ferry (5 pias. there and back; tickets
at the hotels).
364 Route 24. PHIL^E. History.
Tlie Island of Fhilse.
Philae, once the 'pearl of Egypt', is 600 yds. in length and 160 yds.
in breadth, and consists of a crystalline granite mixed with horn-
blende, beneath the alluvial deposits of the Nile. The modern name
is borrowed from the Greeks, and is derived from the ancient Egyp-
tian Pi-lak, or the 'island of Lak'. The Copts called it Pilakh, i.e.
'the corner", and the Arabs used to call it Bilak.
Now-a-days the island is cnlleA El-Kaxr or Geziret Anas el-Wog&d, after
the hero of one of tlie tales in the Thousand and One Nights, which has
its scene tran.<;ferred to Philse in the Egyi>tian version. The name Philae
is known to the natives only through its use by tourists.
The boatmen relate it as follows. Once upon a time there was a
Uing, who had a handsome favourite named Anas el-WogCd, and a vizier,
whose daughter was named Zdlir el-Ward., i.e. Flower of the Rose. The
two young people saw and fell in love with each other, and found oppor-
tunities of meeting secretly, until they were discovered through the im-
prudence of the maiden's attendant. The vizier was violently enraged
and, in order to secure his daughter from the further pursuit of the
young man, despatched her to the island of Phila', where he caused her
to be imprisoned in a strong castle (the temple of Isis) and closely
guarded. But Anas el-Wogud could not forget his love. He forsook the
court and wandered far and wide in search of her, and in the course of
his travels showed kindness to various animals in the desert and else-
where. At last a hermit told him that he would find Zahr el- Ward on
the island of Philfe. He arrived on the bank of the river and beheld the
walls of the castle, but was unable to reach the island, for the water all
around it was alive with crocodiles. As he stood lamenting his fate one of
the dangerous monsters offered to convey him to the island on his hack, out
of gratitude for the young man's previous kindness to animals. The lover
was thus able to reach the prison of his mistress, and the guards suffered
him to remain on the island, as he represented himself to be a persecuted
merchant from a distant land. Birds belonging to Zahr el-Ward assured
him that she was on the island, but he could never obtain .sight of her.
Meanwhile the lady also became unable longer to endure her fate. Letting
herself down from her prison-window by means of a rope made of her
clothes, she found a compassionate ship-master, who conveyed her from
the island in which the lover she sought then was. Then followed another
period of search and finally the meeting of the lovers. A marriage, with
the consent of the father, ends the tale.
The name of Philse does not occur in any of the earlier inscrip-
tions, and even Herodotus, who visited Elephantine during his
journey on the Nile (ca. 450 B.C.), makes no mention of this island.
The first mention of Philse dates from the reign of Nektanebos
(ca. 350 B.C. ; p. cvii), to which the oldest temple buildings on the
island belong. But there is little doubt that Philse was inhabited
and adorned with temples at an earlier period than that.
The chief deity of Philse was the goddess Isis; but Osiris SkniNepliihys,
Halhor (p. 370), Khnum and Satet., the gods of the cataracts, and other
deities were likewise worshipped here. The imposing buildings which
lend the island its characteristic appearance were erected by the Ptole-
mies during the last two centuries B.C. and the Roman emperors during
the first three Christian centuries. 'Numerous inscriptions inform us that
Oreek and Roman pilgrims flocked in crowds to the shrine of the mysteri-
ous, benign, and healing goddess Isis. We know also that the goddess of
Philae was worshipped by the predatory Nubians and by the Blemmyes
(p. 386), and that, even "after their battles with the Emperor Marcian
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Older Temple Court. PHILi*;. 24. lioule. 365
(iSiA.D.), the priests of these tribes were permitted to offer sacri&cea to
Isis along with the Egyptian priests, and also obtained the right of re-
moving the miraculous image of the mighty goddess from the island at
certain solemn festivals and of retaining it for some time. Even after all
Egypt had long been Christianized the ancient lsi»-worship still held
sway in Nubia. In spite of the Edicts of Theodosius the temples of
I'hilK were not closed until the reign of Justinian (5'i7-565), when some
of their chambers were used for Christian services. After the conquest of
Kgypt by the Arabs Philfe embraced Islam, but in the meantime a Coptic
town had been established on the island.
The island, ■which formerly ranked, with its stately temples and
rich vegetation, as one of the most beautiful points in Egypt, has
lost much of its charm since the construction of the Nile Dam. It
is only between Aug. and Dec, when the water of the Nile is allow-
ed to flow freely through the gates of the dam and the surface
of the water regains about the same level it had before the con-
struction of the barrier, that the whole island stands above water,
80 that access may be obtained to all the temples. Formerly, during
the rest of the year also, certain portions of the ruins were accessible
(partly by boat), but since the raising of the dam (comp. p. 371)
this is no longer the case. Elaborate operations on Philae have
taken place to preserve the temples as far as possible from injury
during their annual submergence.
The traveller should visit the various points in the following order,
without lingering too long over any of them, if his time be limited. It is
better to obtain a good general impression from the whole than to examine
the details minutely.
At the S.W. end of the island lies the extensive Outer Temple
Court, which is bounded on the N. by the first pylon of the Temple
of Isis, on the S. by the Vestibule of Nektanebos, and on the E.
and W. by colonnades. This court dates from the late-Ptolemaic
period or from the reign of Augustus. Attention should be paid
to the remains of the strong Quay Wall that perhaps was carried
round the greater part of the island, with flights of stone steps at
various points.
The Vestibule of Nektanebos was built by Nektanebos as the
vestibule for a temple, dedicated to 'his mother Isis, revered at Aba-
ton, mistress of PhilcC, and to the Hathor of Senmet' (p. 370). The
temple was swept away by the floods of the Nile very shortly after its
completion ; but Ptolemy Philadelphus caused the vestibule to be
thoroughly restored. The elegant little structure was supported by
14 columns with varying floral capitals, above each of which was a
second sistrum-capital. Only six of the columns are now standing,
and the roof has disappeared. Between the columns were stone
screens, over 6 ft. in height, crowned with concave cornices and
rows of UrsEus-serpents, and interrupted on the E.,^., and N. by
exit-doors. These screens bore reliefs showing King Nektanebos
sacrificing to the gods.
Before the river-front of the temple two Obelisks upon chest-shaped
bases were erected in the Ptolemaic period. These were made of sand-
366 Route 24 PHIL^. Temple of hit.
stone instead of the usual granite. Tlie W. obelisk, bearing a Greek and
several Arabic inscriptions, is still standing, though it has lost its apex;
the E. obelisk is represented by its base only.
The West Colonnade, which follows the line of the shore of the
island, is 100 yds. in length and has a row of 31 (formerly 32) plant
columns, each 16 ft. high, no two capitals of which are alike. Most
of the columns have reliefs showing Tiberius offering gifts to the
gods. The ceiling, which is partly destroyed, is decorated with stars
and flying vultures. The rear wall is embellished with two rows
of bas-reliefs, representing the Pharaoh (usually Augustus or Ti-
berius) offering various gifts to the gods. — A subterranean stair-
way leads outside this colonnade to a small Nilometer.
The East Colonnade is unfinished ; only six of its 10 columns
are completed, the remainder were left merely rough-hewn. The
unfinished capitals should be noticed. In the back-wall are five
doors, which led to various chapels.
This olonnude is adjoined at its S. end by the now very ruinous Templk
OK Eri-hems-nufer (llarensnuphis), erected by Philopator and Ergamenes,
his Nubian contemporary, anil extended by Epiphanes. Upon the existins;
walls, some of which have been rebuilt, are representations in raised and
incised reliefs of the customary scenes, in which Philopator, Ergamenes,
Epiphanes, and Tiberius figure as the Pharaoh. — Behind the central part
of the colonnade lay the small Chapel op Manddlis, a Nubian deity, now
in a very fragmentary condition; and at the N. end of the colonnade is
a well preserved little Temple of Imhotep {jSsculapins ; p. cli), built by
Philadelphus.
The "Temple of Isis, dedicated to Isis and her son Harpocrates,
was the principal sanctuary on the island and probably occupies
the site of an earlier shrine. Its erection, begun by Ptolemy Phila-
delphus, was completed in its essential details by Euergetes I., but
its embellishment with inscriptions and reliefs was a very gradual
process, and at not a few points was never finished.
The First Pylon, 150 ft. broad and 60 ft. high, consists of two
towers and a central portal, decorated by Nektanebos with the custom-
ary reliefs. On the front of the right (E.) tower appears a huge
figure of the Pharaoh (Ptolemy Neos Dionysos) in the usual atti-
tude, grasping a band of enemies by the hair, and raising his club
for the fatal stroke. To the left stand Isis, the falcon-headed
Horus of Edfu, and Hathor. Above are two reliefs: to the right,
the king (Neos Dionysos) presents the crown of Upper and Lower
Egypt to Horus and Nephthys ; to the left, he offers incense to Isis
and Harpocrates. On the left (W.) tower are similar representations,
and at the foot are numerous demotic and Greek inscriptions. A
doorway, embellished with reliefs by Philometor, leads through the
left tower direct to the entrance of the Birth House (p. 367). In
front of the pylon formerly stood two obelisks , erected by Euer-
getes II., and two lions, all of granite. The obelisks are now in the
possession of Mr. Bankes, Kingston Hall, Dorsetshire.
Adjoining theE. pylon-tower, to the right, is an elegant Gateway,
which was built by Ptolemy Philadelphus and originally stood in a
Temple of his. PHlLiE. 24. Route. 867
brick wall. It is embellished with reliefs of Ptolemy (on the lintel)
and Tiberius (ou the jambs).
The "Ascent of the Pjlon is recommended. The winding staircase
begins in the S.E. angle ot" the forecourt (.see Plan, p. 365). Several unadorned
and feebly lighted chambers are found within the towers. The view
from the top commands the whole island and its .surroundings.
We now pass through the central gateway, within which, to the
right, is a French inscription ('an 7 de la r^publique' ) commemorating
Napoleon's Egyptian campaign and the pursuit of the Mamehikes
by General Desaix in 1799.
The Forecourt, which we next enter, is bounded on the S. by
Pylon I and on the N. by Pylon II. On the K. and W. are edifices,
each with a colonnade on the side next the court.
On the W. (left) is the Bibth House, dedicated to Hathor-Isis
and to the memory of the birth of her son Horus (comp. p. 250).
It is reached also by a doorway in the W. tower of Pylon I (see
p. 366); on the back of the pylon is a relief of four priests carrying
the boat of Isis, preceded by the king burning incense. The Birth
House is surrounded on all four sides by colonnades, the columns
of which have floral capitals surmounted by sistrum-capitals. The
columns on the W. side are unfinished. The walls, the columns, and
the stone screens between the columns are adorned with the con-
ventional reliefs and inscriptions, mostly dating from Euergetes II.,
Neos Dionysos, Augustus, and Tiberius. The reliefs in the last
chamber are especially interesting : Horus as a falcon in the marshes,
J sis suckling Horus in the marshes of the Delta, and other scenes
from the childhood of the god.
The East Building, opposite the Birth House, was occupied by
the priests, partly for scientific purposes. The colonnade of plant
columns is very elegant. The reliefs and Inscriptions date from Neos
Dionysos, the votive inscription on the architrave from Euergetes II.
At the N. end of the colonnade is a Door (PI. i), approached by
several steps, opening upon the inner passage round the temple.
The reliefs upon this show Neos Dionysos before the gods.
The Second Pylon is 10.') ft. broad and 40 ft. high. The Portal
between the towers was embellished by Euergetes II. with reliefs
of the usual type. The large relief on the right tower represents the
Pharaoh Neos Dionysos dedicating the slaughtered sacrificial animals
to Horus and Hathor. Above are two small reliefs: on the right, Neos
Dionysos presenting a wreath to Horus and Nephthys; on the left,
Neos Dionysos ofl'ering incense and pouring water upon an altar, in
presence of Osiris, Isis, and Horus. The granite of the site at the foot
of the tower has been smoothed to form a stele, with a six-lined in-
scription and reliefs relating to a grant of lands made to the temple
of Isis by Philometor in the 24th year of his reign (167 B.C.). In
front of it are the foundations of a small Chapel (PI. m). — On the
left tower are similar scenes (figures deliberately defaced). On
both towers are grooves for the flag-staffs.
368 Koule2d. PIlILiE. Temple of Jsis.
An inner staircase ascends to the W. tower (coinp. the Plan), whence
we proceed across the central portal to the E. tower. The ascent, however,
is not worth nxaking except when the first pylon is inaccessible.
Within the doorway, at the top, to the right, are some much
faded early-Christian pictures.
The Temple of Isis proper, entered by this portal, consisted of
an open court (here very small), a vestibule or pronaos, several
anteohambers, and a sanctuary, with smaller chambers adjoining.
The walls are covered both outside and inside with reliefs of Ptole-
mies (Philadelphus, Kuergetes 11., etc.) and Roman emperors (Au-
gustus, Tiberius, Antoninus) performing the customary ceremonies
in the guise of Pharaohs ; but the traveller will find detailed de-
sciiptions of similar scenes in our accounts of the temples of Dendera
(p. 245) andEdfu(p. 344).
The Court had a small colonnade on each side, the roof of which
rested on a single column. The uncovered portion could be shaded
from the sun by means of a velarium; the holes for the cords are
still visible in the upper part of the concave cornice turned towards
the second pylon.
The Vestibule, with eight columns , was originally separated
from the preceding court by stone screens between the first row of
columns. The colouring of tliis hall, which has been preserved on
the ceilings and the columns, must have been very brilliant. The
floral capitals of the columns both in the court and in the hall are the
most instructive of all the specimens that have come down to us of
the manner in which the Egyptians of the later period coloured their
columns. Comparatively little regard was paid to the natural colours;
e.g. light green palm-twigs receive blue ribs, etc. Christian services
were celebrated in the court and vestibule, of which the numerous
Coptic crosses chiselled in the walls are memorials. A Greek in-
scription in the doorway to Room D, on the right, records that 'this
good work' took place under Bishop Theodorus. That was in the
reigu of Justinian (p. 365).
The small ADtechambers (PI. i>, E, F) preceding the sanctuary
are adjoined by chambers lying in darkness. The Sanctuary, which
has two tiny windows, still contains a pedestal placed here by Euer-
getes I. and his wife Berenice, on which stood the sacred boat with
the image of Isis.
The other rooms in the inner part of the temple do not repay a visit.
Rootns VIII, VII, and VI contain fine large reliefs of Ptolemy Philadelphus,
some of which retain their vivid colouring. The small Court in which sa-
crifices used to be made is embellished with reliefs of Philadelphus sacrific-
ing and pouring water upon an altar. There are cellars beneath all these
rooms and the sanctuary, but the ceilings and floors have in many cases
fallen iu.
To the W. of Antechamber D is a small room (PI. I), embellished
with representations of the king before Isis. A door (PI. n; see
p. 369) here affords an exit from the temple. Here also is the ap-
proach to the Staircase, ascending first to a chamber situated above
Hadrian's Gateway. I'WU.Ai. 24. Route. 369
Koom Vll, and tbeiice to tlie ]{oor of the sanctuary. — A few steps
descend liere to the *Osiris Chambers, witli some interesting reliefs
referring to the death of Osiris (p. cxliii). On the left wall of tho
Anteroom (above Room F): 1. The(N.) Nile-god olTers a libation of
milk to the soul of Osiris, sitting before Lim in the form of a bird;
2. The falcon-headed llarendotes pours the sacred water over the
falcon-headed mummy of Osiris, behind which stand the sisters of
tlie god. 3. Four daemons, the god Show, and the Emp. Antoninus
(builder of this room) before Osiris and his two sisters Isis and
Nephthys. In the small Main Chamber (above Room 11), on the
wall opposite the entrance: Central Row, beginning to the left:
1. Isis and Nephthys by the bier of Osiris Onnophris, who is nude;
'2. Two goddesses beside the tomb of Osiris, whoso head is wanting;
a lion approaches the door to the tomb; 3. Four dsemons carrying the
falcon-headed mummy of Osiris. Lower Row: 1. The frog-headed
Heket and the falcon-headed Harsiesis by the bier of Osiris, beneath
whiiih stand the jars for the entrails; 2. The corpse of Osiris amongst
marsh-plants; a priest pouring the consecrated water; 3. The dog-
headed Anubis by the bier of Osiris, beside which kneel Isis and
Nephthys, the sisters of Osiris.
We quit the temple of Isis by Door n (sec p. 3t38), turn to the
\V., and proceed to visit —
Hadrian's Gateway, a small portal in the ancient girdle-wall
of the temple, adjoined by a much ruined vestibule. This structure
was built by Hadrian and embellished by Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius,
and Lucius Verus. Probably because this door led to Abaton (p. 371)
the reliefs upon it refer to the cult of Osiris. On the lintel: Hadrian
before Osiris, Isis, and Harsiesis, and before Osiris, Nephthys, and
llarendotes. On the left jamb is the sacred relic of Abydos, on the
right jamb, the sacred relic of Busiris | Tj, the post of Osiris j.
Within the gateway, at the top of the right wall : Marcus Aurelius
before Osiris and Isis (note the lines to guide the artist); below,
Marcus Aurelius bringing offerings, grapes and flowers, to Isis.
The Vestibule, which was never completed and is now much ruined,
contain.s some interestin;; reliefs. Above the door in the S. wall (PI. o)
of the chamber are two rows of reliefs. Above: Nephthys presenting the
crown of Lower Egypt, and Isis that of Upper Egypt to Horns, who is
seated on a bench; the king's name is being inscribed on a palm branch
by Thout, to the left, and by Seshet (goddess of writing), to the right;
behind Thout sits the god Show, holding a sail .2 ■]■ ) , and still farther
^.
back are another god and a goddess playing the lyre. Below : The Osiris
tomb at Abaton, with the body of Osiris borne by a crocodile; to the left
stands isis, hii;her up is the sun among mountains, and above the whole
are the sun, a half-moon, and stars. The whole design is shown within a
small temple, with a door to the left, and two large pylons and one small
one in front; to the right are rocks. — To the left of the door is an unfin-
ished relief of the king presenting lands. Above are three lines in MeroVtic
370 Route 24. PHILvE.
carsive characters (p. cxxxi) — In the second row from the top, on the
Right Wall (PI. p), is the celebrated Representation of the Source of the Nile:
at the foot of a rocky eminence, on which perch a vulture and a falcon, the
Nile-god, surrounded by a serpent, pours water from two vases. — To the
right of this is Horas (in the form of a falcon) on a reedy lake between
Hathor (on the left) and Isis, Kephthys, Horus, and Amon (on the right).
A subterranean staircase to the 8. of Hadrian's Gateway leads to a
kilometer (lights necessary), which has hieratic and demotic scales as well
as the customary Coptic one.
From Hadrian's Gateway we proceed to the N., to the mins of a
Temple of HuTendotes (p. cl), built by the Emp. Claudius.
In the N. part of the island (comp. the Map, p. 364) are two
Coptic Churches^ the remains of a Coptic Convent, and a ruined Temple
of Augustus, built in the 18th year of that emperor's reign.
At the extreme N.E. of the island, and in the axis of the temple
of Augustus, is a large Uoman Town Gate, with three arches, the
side-arches being lower than that in the centre. The N. side-aroh
has a domical stone vault in the Itoman style. This gateway was
probably erected by Diocletian.
About 50 paces to the E. of the Temple of Isis, lies the small —
*Temple of Hathor, dedicated to Hathor-Aphrodite by Philo-
metor and Euergetes II. The colonnade in front of it (restored)
and the sanctuary (now vanished) were both added by Augustus.
The columns in the former were united by stone screens, on which
Augustus appeared sacrificing to various forms of Hathor. On the columns
themselves are charming representations of flute-players, harpers, figures
of Bes playing the tambourine and the harp and dancing, apes playing
the lyre, priests carrying an antelope, etc. The temple proper is in better
preservation; in front of it are two plant columns, which were joined to
the walls by means of screens.
To the S.E. of this temple , on the bank , rises the so-called —
**Kiosque, the chief decoration and the characteristic symbol of
tlie island, which, however, is generally so submerged that only the
upper part of its columns are visible. It dates from the Roman
imperial period and was never completed. Above the floral capitals
of the columns it was intended to add sistrum-capitals.
Only the end-walls are smoothed on the outside, the side-walls were
left rough-hewn. Within, two of the stone screens between the columns
are embellished with reliefs: Trajan oflering wine to Isis and to the
falcon-headed Horus, and Trajan before Osiris and Isis. The remaining
screens are simply smoothed, except two which are still rough-hewn.
The rocky island of Biggeh or Bigeh (Egypt. Senmet), the chief
deities of which were Ups, the goddess of fire, and Hathor, is, like
Philae, now flooded in winter (comp. p. 365). It is reached by boat in
a few minutes from Philse, of which it commands a picturesque view.
"We land at the ancient quay and ascend by a staircase. In front of
us lie the remains of a Ptolemaic temple (Neos Dionysos), of which
part of the hypostyle hall is still standing, with its plant-columns
united by stone screens. On the E. side is a door, into which an apse
has been built. There are numerous inscriptions on the island.
DAM OF ASSDAN. 24. Route. 371
Biggeh was the site also of the famous sanctuary of Aboton, with a
tomb of Osiris (conip. p. cxliv"). Active travellers are recommended
to climb to the top of one of the rocks of Biggeh, for thu sake of the
remarkable view over the whole cataract district.
The rocky islets off the N. end of Philse, now called Konosso
('great rook'), were formerly the S. limit of Egypt (seep. 386).
They are now generally submerged. The islets contain numerous
rock-inscriptions, among which the cartouches of Psammetichos 11.
are conspicuous on a massive double rock.
The Nile Dam at Assu&n.
Those who wish to visit the Dam only may go hy the shorter route
described at p. 363, and return by the rather lonp^er route along the bank.
The^Dam of Assuan [Barrage, Ax&h. Es-Sadd, i.e. 'the Dam', or
El-Khazdn, i.e. 'the Reservoir' ), built in 1898-1902 below Philse, is
the largest structure of the kind in the world and ranks among the
most wonderful sights of Egypt. It was constructed in order to dam
up the water of the Nile so that a regular supply could be furnished
during time of low water. By this means the country can be regularly
irrigated all the year round, and many irrigation canals that used
formerly to run dry periodically now receive a constant supply of
water. Upwards of 500,000 acres were added in 1902 to the area of
land cultivable in summer, and it is estimated that this increased the
national wealth by 15,000,000Z. The dam is built of granite blocks
brought from the old quarries at Assuan (p. 356) and runs straight
across the river-channel for a distance of 2160 yds. (II/4M.). The
original height of the dam was 130 ft. above the foundation, while
its thickness varied from 23 ft. at the top to 98 ft. at the bottom.
Inl907-12, however, it was raised about 1672 ft- higher and its thick-
ness increased by about as much ; so that the storage-lake formed
above the dam has now a capacity of 2,420,000,000 cubic metres
(instead of 980,000,000), a depth, when full, of 88 ft. (instead
of 65 ft.), and an extent upstream of 185 P/I. (instead of 140 M.).
The masonry is penetrated by 180 sluice gates for regulating the
flow of the water. These include 140 lower sluices (each measuring
23 X 6I/2 ft.) for the distribution of the water and 40 upper sluices
(each 6I/2 X 11 ft.) to permit the escape of surplus water. The iron
gates of the sluices ('Stoney patent') are regulated by the help of
electrical winches standing on the top of the dam. "When the Nile
commences to rise at the beginning of July all the sluices are opened.
After the end of November, when practically all the suspended
mud has passed through and the water has become comparatively
clear, the gates are gradually closed, one after the other in regular
order. The lake above the dam is thus formed and becomes quite
full about Feb. 1st. When the want of water in Egypt begins to be
noticeable (about the end of March) the quantity required for culti-
372 Route 24. DAM OF ASSUAN.
vation is dra'wn off gradually from the accumulated stores in tlie
reservoir, -which last until the river once more begins to rise.
To the W. of the dam is a. Navigation Caval, by which the boats
are looked up and down stream. It is II/4M. long and the difference
in level (75 ft.) is surmounted by four locks, each 230 ft. long and
31 ft. wide. The two npper gates of the locks are G3 ft. high, the
live others 49 ft., 39 ft., and 30 ft. high.
The original plan for the two dams of Assuan and Assiut (p. 232) was
worked out by Sir William Willcocks at the Egyptian Ministry of Public
Worka under the superintendence of Sir William Qarslin, Under-Secretary
of State. The execution of the design, which was finally adopted on the ad-
vice of the late Sir Benjamin Baker (p. 23'-'), was entrusted to the English
contractors Hears. John Aird <k Co. The work was begun in the summer of
1898; the foundation-stone (now commemorated by a bron/.e tablet) was laid
on Feb. 12lh, 1899, by the Duke of Comanght; and on Dec. 10th, 1902, the
dam was formally declared complete in the presence of the Khedive, the
Duke and Duchess ofConnaught, and Lord Cromer. The total cost of the
two dams amounted to &¥. 3,237,000. — The plan for the raising of tlie
dam at Assuan was ^T^^s.ve A \>y Sir Benjamin Baker. The new works, which
cost about i£E 1,200,0(0, besides iSE 520,000 spent on the expropriation
of the ^Nubian villages, were formally opened on Bee. 23rd, 1912, in pre-
sence of the Khedive and Lt rd Kitchener. — Comp. 'The Assuan Reservoir
and Lake Maris', by Sir William Willcocks (1906).
Those who come from Philae by boat (p. 362) land at a flight of
wooden steps by the dam. On the \V. bank is a small, but good
Restaurant, affording a good view of the whole structure.
The Return to Assu.\n by boat (p. 362) is made from the lowest
of the four locks. The course follows the W. bank of the river,
•through another lock and past Seheil (p. 363), Saliig, and other
picturesque rocky islands. Assuan is reached in about li/o^r.
25. Routes through the Eastern Desert.
Comp. the Map after the Index.
The necessary Camels (about 20-30 pias. per day) are obtained with the
aid of one of the consular agents. Tents and other requisites must be brought
from Cairo (comp. p. xxv). The Ehabtr, or guide in charge of the caravan.
Is held responsible for the safe conduct of the entire party, and obedience
to his marching orders is advised.
Comp. T. Barron tt W. F. Hmne.^ Topography and Geology of the Eastern
Desert of Egypt (Central Portion; Cairo, Survey Department , \^Qi1) :, Arthur
E. P. Weigall., Travels in the Upper Egyptian Deserts (Edinburgh & London,
1909); Ed. Fraas., Geoenostisches Protil vom Nil zum EotenMeer (Zeitschrift
der Deutschen geologischen Gesellschaft, Band 52, Heft 4, 190(0; Prof.
G. Srhice^nfurth, Autnahmen in der ostlichen Wiiste von ^Egypten (in ICisheets,
1:200,000, with the exception of Sbeet 1 mentioned on p. If8; 1897-19J0).
The desert-routes between the Nile and the Red Sea were im-
portant in antiquity both for the trade with the seaports and the
land of Punt (p. 223) and for the gold-mines and valuable quarries
of green breccia and several varieties of granite in the mountains
of the Arabian Desert. Keneh (p. 222) is now the usual starting-
place of the caravans, but in antiquity it was Koptos {^Kufl; p. 223).
Bill ^\.\I{UU. -25. Route. 373
The most important barbonrs on the Red Sea, named from N. to S.,
were Myos Hormos (now Abu Shnr €l-KilU).i LfuJcos Limen (now
Koseir), and Berenike.
From Kkneh to Auu Shar Tsl-Kibli, 5-6 days. The route leads
to the N.E. from the Wdill Keneh to the (3 days' march) WCidi Faltreh,
on the N. side of w]iich lics'the Ge'el Fatlreh (49*20 ft. ; Mom Cl'aud-
ianus). About '/2 ^^- to '^'^ S. of the latter wadi are the granite
quarries, known as Umm Dikal ('mother of columns'), which were
worked by faptives and convicts, chiefly in the reigns of Trajan and
Hadrian. Traces have been found also of old gold-mines, the
exploitation of which is again being attempted by the Fatirah Explor-
ing Company. Here are situated also the ruins of the Roman settle-
ment of Hydreuma Trajani. These consist mainly of a fort about
82 yds. square surrounded by walls and towers. Outside the walls
lie a temple and other buildings, and some large columns and Greek
inscriptions have been found in the quarries. About two days'
journey farther to the N. is the Mons Porphyrites, now called Gebel
Dukhdn ('smoke mountain' ; 4460 ft.), the ancient porphyry quarries
of which were worked by the Romans. Here are the ruins of an
Ionic temple of the time of Hadrian (never completed), remains of an
irregularly built town, and two large water-reservoirs. We follow
the ancient route hence to the plateau of Abu Shdr el-Kibli, on the
E. slope of which lie the ruins of Myos Hormos (see above). On the
coast, 3 M. to the E., are the remains of a Roman fort, — A second
route, running farther to the S., along the ancient 'Porphyry Road',
ascends the large Wcidi Keneh, then proceeds to the Wadi Kaltar,
and finally skirts the S. base of the Mons Porphyrites to the sea.
The Journey from Keneh to Koseir (4-5 days ; from Luxor,
see below) is much more interesting. The route from Keneh follows
the valley of the Nile for the first day and leads through the villages
of Sheikh Rekdb, Doni, and Kom 'Imr'in, the first on the left, the
other two on the right side of tlio road. The first night is generally
spent at the caravanserai of Bir'Ambar, about B'/o l^i'S- from Keneh.
This large caravanserai was erected at the expense of an Ibrahim
Pasha and comprises several separate buildings, covered with dome-
shaped roofs and surrounded by courts and colonnades.
On the second day we advance steadily towards the E., ascending
almost imperceptibly, through a monotonous plain intersected in
all directions by small undulating heights. All around us extend
the interminable yellowish-grey, sun-bleached rocks of the desert;
not a trace of organic life is visible, not a single green tree or shrub.
To the E. of the Gebel el-Karn ('the horn'), about midway between
Bir'Ambar and Lakeita, the road from Keneh is joined by that from
Luxor. The only variety is afforded by an occasional Mabwnla or Ma-
halta. The mabwalas are the places where the camels are lialted
from time to time to make water. They occur on every great caravan-
374 Route 25. LAKEITA. KaMern Pesert.
route at regular intervals and are of the utmost importance as
guide-posts showing the road. The mahattas or halting- places are
6-9 M. apart and serve also as measures of distance. Here and there
we observe some of the semaphore-towers of an optical telegraph
dating from the time of Mohammed All. The Koseir caravans
usually pass the second night in the village of Lakeita [El-Gheta;
9 hrs. from Bir 'Ambar, I21/2 ^irs. from Keneh), which is chiefly in-
habited by 'Ahdbdeh (p. 356). The small oasis has two wells, some
palms, a few mud-huts, and a half-ruined Arab caravanserai. Near the
chief well are some fragments of a Greek inscription containing the
name of Tiberius Claudius. The manners and customs of the primitive
desert-tribes in this region well repay observation; the way in which
the children wear their hair is especially notable.
About 21/2 hrs. to the E. of Lakeita we quit the plain and enter a
wadi, flanked by abrupt terraces belonging to the upper cretaceous
formation and containing petrified oyster-shells. In 8/4 hr. more we
reach the Kasr el-Bandt, or 'Castle of the Maidens', a picturesque
rock of sandstone formed by atmospheric erosion and covered with
numerous graffiti in Greek, Coptic, Arabic, Himyaritic, and Sinaitic
characters, engraved here by caravans. Adjacent lies a Roman water-
ing-station (Hydreuma), forming an oblong 125 ft. in length and
102 ft. in breadth. The enclosing wall, formed of courses of sandstone
without cement, was 6V2 ft- high. Within the wall lie 20 small
chambers opening on a rectangular inner court, the only exit from
which is on the N. side. No water is now procurable here.
At a distance of about 2 hrs. from Hydreuma the rocks close in
and form a winding pass named Mutrak es-Seldm. On the Gebel Abu
Ku' ('father of the elbow'), at the entrance to the pass, are more
graffiti, older than those at Kasr el-Banat; in one of them Amen-
ophis IV. is mentioned. Beyond the pass we approach the fine
mountain scenery through which the second part of the Koseir route
leads. In the distance, to the right, rise the S. foothills of the Ham-
mamdt Mts., while nearer and in front are the S.W. spurs. These
mountains rise in terraces to the height of 4200 ft. and outvie in
impressive scenery the rocks of Assuan. The outliers of the range
consist of a yellow sandstone, belonging to the cretaceous form-
ation, followed by the red 'Nubian' sandstone, also of the creta-
ceous system.
Among these hills, to the N. of the caravan-route, lies a second
Roman station, with a fllled-inwell. About 2 hrs. farther on the sand-
stone disappears and we reach the older (palaeozoic) formations of the
Hammamat Mountains proper. The character of the scenery suddenly
changes; the hard, dark rocks rise perpendicularly and the mountains
assume an abrupt, Alpine appearance. Here begins the W&di
Hamm&mit, the Behenu Valley of the Egyptians, who quarried its
hard dark stone for statues and coffins in the most ancient times.
[This was the Niger or Thebaicus Lapis of the ancients, according to
F.aflfrn Dffiert. KOSEIK. 25. Rouk. 375
Fraas a Silurian rock with outcDppirigs of later granite.] lii 1 lir.
more we reach the Blr nammdmdt, a well 16 ft. in diameter, now,
however, containing no water. Near the well arc the remains of a
Roman wall and five unfinished and now shattered sarcophagi. The
([uarries contain nnmerous Egyptian inscriptions. The earliest ex-
pedition to llammamat of which we have any knowledge took place
in the reign of King Esse (5th Dyn.). At a later period, especially
under the Middle Einpire, the quarries were diligently worked, and
even under the New J'2nipiro they were in operation. We hear of a
great undertaking under Ramses IV. for the purpose of procuring
block> for the temjile of Amon at Thebe.«, in which no fewer than
8368 workmen and soldiers were employed. The quarries were
worked under Darius, Xerxes, and Artaxerxes also.
Just beyond the quarries the route turns from the N.E. to the S.
and passes the ruins of El-Fmvakhir ('the potsherds'), now in the
possession of a British mining-company. Traces of the ancient open
workings and deep subterranean adits (now very difficult of access),
the foundations of hundreds of workmen's cottages, and numerous
inscriptions, hear witness to the former importance of the place.
About 1 hr. beyond El-Fawakhir we reach Blr es-Sidd, a small
and picturesquely situated spring, adjoined by settlements of the
'Ababdeh. In 4 hrs. more we reach the top of the pass of Ri'a, on
the other side of whii-h we descend through the Wad i Ahu Shan
to (3 hrs.l the Wadi Rij^afa, containing a large well, the water of
which, however, is considered unwholesome. The route now makes
a wide curve to the N. and at the plain of 'Liteima' reaches the
dividing line between the central mountain range and the outlying
chains consisting of cretaceous sandstone and tertiary rocks (white
limestone). After 2^/2 hrs. we pass through the Wadi Beida slwA
proceed to (3 hrs.) XheBh el-lnglis (dug by l-lnglish troops in 1800),
the cisterns of which are generally dry. Thence we go on through the
^Vddi Aiiibayi, with a spring of bra kish water, to (4 hrs.) —
Koseir (Qos^eir), on the Arabian Gulf. Koseir is now an un-
important town of IGOO inhali., the seat of a Ma'miir (p. xlvii), with
a quay, a long wooden mole, two mosques, several bazaars, govern-
ment-buililings, and a telegraph-ofiice. In the Ptolemaic period the
desert-route ended here at the Leukos IJmen or 'White Harbour',
and in earlier times in the vicinity of the WudiGasiis, near the village
of <Saui(', a little to the N. of Koseir. About 3-4 M. to the N. of
Koseir lies Old Koseir, with some scanty ancient remains. — An
interesting and very attractive visit may be made to the coral reefs
which here skirt the shore and are easily accessible at ebb-tide.
On the return-journey towanls the Xile the Keduins sometimes prefer
another and more southerly route (the so-called 'Jlo'ilii Route), diverging
from the route above described at the Hir el-lnglts (see above). This alter-
native route, which may he strongly recommended, leads at lirst through
the winding Wddi Kabr el-Khddim, afterwards passing the Qebel Auhcif and
throiigh the pass of lii'at el-Oliutdl into the ]Viidi Ohazdl. To the right
rise the impo-iing phonnlithic cnnes of the Oebel Daghaniyeh and the Q(bel
IUki>kkkr''s Egypt. 7th Edit. 24
376 Roiite '25. KOSEIR. FM^Urn Desert.
Moshdghir (6 hrs, from Bir el-Inglis), the ascent of wbich from the E. is
easy ami well worth while, as it commands an excellent survey of the
abrupt peaks of the Ilammamat. We next follow the ^Vddi Hovi'Cda, which
farther on takes the name of Wddi el-Jlomr, with the line Oebel ffomr
flanking it on the right. On the way are numerous traces of ancient
gold-mines, especially noticealile in the numerous thick beds of quartz
to which the Oebel Ilnmr owes its formation The night is spent at (4 hrs.)
Bir el-Mo'ila, a well beside a few huts of the 'Ababdeh. At the Oebel Wdkif
we cross the Tarik ed-Da/'rdm, a road running from N. to S., and farther
on we reach 'Amdra, with another well and 'Ababdeh huts. Thence our
route lies through the Wddi A'i7r and the Wddi el-Kash to the (S'/z hrs.)
Bir el-Kash, a dried-up well. The routed now leads through palaeozoic
greywacke rocks, which, beyond Bir el-Mo'ila, assume the same breccia
formation as in the Ilammamat. The Wadi el-Kagh bends towards the
S., but wc quit the mountains (2i/2 hrs. from Bir el-Kash) by the pass of
/li'at el-Kheil-, and re-enter the desert of sand and gravel, the heights of
which ore formed of cretaceous sandstone. We proceed across the pass of
h'i'al el-IIamra to MabwcUdt Has As/ar, whence we go on through the Wddi
Mdghlnl to Mabicalat Kh6r el-Ghir. Lastly we proceed via Odhral ed-Dab'a
to (10 hrs. from Ri'at cl-Kheil) Lnheiln (p. 374), where our route unites
with the more northerly one already described.
The .louKNEi" TO Bf.kenike through the territory of the 'Ababdeh Be-
duins is seldom undertaken. We may .start from Kcneh or Kuft, diverging
at Lakeita (p. 374), or from Kdfu (Redesiyeh; see below). On both routes
traces of old walerinji-stations are liiscernible. The Itinerary of Antoninus
(3rd cent. A.D.) gives a list of the ancient stations (starting from Koptos)
with their distance from each other in Roman miles, as follows: Phoeni-
con 24, Didyme 24, Afrodito 20, Kompasi 22, Jovis 2i5, Aristonis 25, Pha-
lacro 25, Apollonos 23, Kabalsi 27, Ksenon Hydreuma 27, Berenike 18 —
in all 258 Roman miles = about 236 I'Inglish miles. — A third route,
established by Hadrian, led from Antinoupolis (p. 209) to the Red Sea,
and then southwards along the coast to Berenike.
Golenitheff, the Russian Egyptologist, who described his journey in
the 'Recueil de travaui relatifs a la philologie et a I'archeologie egyp-
tiennes et assyriennes' (xiii, 1890), took 11 days from Redesiyeh (p. 348)
to Berenike, and returned thence to Assuan in 8 days. One day may be
saved on the outward journey by starting from Edfu (p. 345). The temple of
Sethos I. is then reached late in the afternoon of the first day.
ist Day. From Redesiyeh to Bir Ahbnd (3 hrs.), in the Wddi Midh.
In the Wadi 51iiib, which is entered opposite the mouth of the Wddi Am-
merikbeh, is an ancient station with masons' marks like those at El-Hdsh,
near Silsileh (p. 337j. Lepsius mentions a ruin here, named Serhush (i.e.
sandstone), datini; from some ancient settlement. *
2nd Day. The Temple of Sethos I. is reached in the afternoon. This
temple, about 37 31. from Redesiyeh, after which town it is sometimes
called, was discovered in 1816 by CailHaud. It was built by Sethos I. beside
an ancient watering-station, and was dedicated to Amon-Re. The vesti-
bule is built of blocks of sandstone and has four papyrus - columns with
bud-capitals. The reliefs represent the king as victor over negroes and
Asiatics. The following hall, hewn out of the rock, contains four square
pillars, reliefs of the king at sacriiice, and long inscriptions recording the
sinking of the wells and the building of the temple. In the rear wall
are three niches, with statues of the king and various gods. — A Small
Building beside the temple perhaps marks the site of the well. On an
adjoining rock, to the E., are three steles. On one of these is an Asiatic
goddess on horseback, with shield and spear; the second is dedicated to
the official entrusted with the sinking of the well ; and on the third is
Eni, viceroy of Ethiopia, kneeling before the king. Higher up on the
rock are rude figures of gazelles, Greek graffiti, and an inscription of a
Prince Mermes, dating from tbe reign of Amenophis III.
3rd Day. More masons' naarks discovered on small rocks. Ancient
statiou of Abu Greta, with two cisterns and chambers (not to be confounded
with the place of the same name near Berenike, see p. 377).
FM»tem Desert. BERENIKE. 25. Route. 377
4th Day. Descent into the Wadi Beizah , with its acacias. Eude
tiesigns and grafUti on the rucks. We cross the H'drfi IHgelig. On the
rocks to the right are rude representations of girafl'es, camels, and ibexes.
Kemalns of an ancient station named Sammut, with a cistern and cham-
bers, occur in the wadi of the same name. We next proceed through
the broad green Wddi Moelheh (Bir Jliiclih) towards the Oebel Mdgef
0935 ft.), near which is a well of excellent water.
5th Day. We pass several groups of rude stone huts, probably built
by miners. View of Gebel Ziibara (see below). On a rock to the right
is a representation of an Egyptian bark, with sails and oars. Farther on
is another ruined station.
6th Day. Ancient station of Ed-Duei(j. Adjacent is another smaller
building. About 3 hrs. farther on w5 cross the watershed between the
Kile and the Red Sea. Two more cisterns, within a semicircular enclosure.
We pass the granite hill of Abu Had (2075 ft.).
7th Day. Descent into the Wddi Oemdl. Station in the form of a
right-angled triangle, with two cisterns. Lateral valley diverging towards
the emerald mines (see below). To the right rises the Gebel Abyad.
8th Day. We proceed through the M'ddi Ahi/acl and the Wddi iligelig.,
leaving the Gebel J/amdla (6490 ft.) to the right; then along the Wddi R6mit.
On a height in the W&di Ilufihi are some sheikhs' graves, in a circular form.
9th Day. .Seven other circular tombs: the well oi El-Haratra lies to the
right; old structure of a large cistern in the Wddi el-IIasir. Through the
Wddi Amvugdni to the Wddi Ldhemi, which descends from the mountain
of that name, crosses our route, and proceeds in windings to the Red
Sea. The last station is Abu Greta {let remark at p. 376), comprising
several buildings, the largest of which contains the remains of rooms.
Another rectangular building seems to have been a reservoir for water.
10th Day. Arrival at Sikket Bender, near the temple of Berenike.
The town of Berenike (Berenice), situated in the same latitude as
Assuan, was founded in 275 B.C. by Ptolemy Philadelphus, who revived
the commerce of the Red Sea by the establishment of several new ports.
The town, which was named by Ptolemy after his mother, was the ter-
minus of the main desert-routes from Egypt, and for 400 or 500 years was
the entrepot of a marine commerce carried on mainly with Arabia and
India. The ruins, still extant, surround the Temple, which faces the
E.N.E. In front is a forecourt iS'/z ft- in width and 12 ft. in depth,
which was adjoined by the temple proper (inner length 31 ft.), com-
prising two rows of apartments. The representation on the left outside
wall shows an emperor appearing before a goddess, who seems to be,
from the legend, the tutelary deity of the green (i.e. emerald) mine.
The Emerald Mines, '/-' '" 'l'^ ■^- "*^ Berenike, were worked by the
Arabs down to the year 7(50 of the Hegira (1370 A.D.), after which they were
abandoned. Mohammed Ali made an unavailing attempt to re-open them.
They lie partly in the Wddi SakHt and partly on the Gebel Ziibara (4465 ft.),
14 M. to the N.E. They are best visited from Edfu (p. 3iS), but may,
like Berenike, be approached by following the coast of the Arabian Gulf
from Koseir. The first route diverges from the road to Berenike in the
Wddi Qemdl (see above). To the S. of the Oebel Zubara lies the village of
Sakeit (Sikait), with numerous huts of miners and a small rock-hewn
temple, with a few Greek inscriptions.
Farther to the N. (25° 30' K. lat.), in the Wddi Umbdrek, lie the ancient
gold-mines of Umm Bus, reopened by the Um Rus Gold Mines of Egypt,
a British company. Hundreds of labourers' huts are still visible here
besides the ruins of about 300 houses dating from a Grspco-Roman settle-
ment (called by Ptolemy Nechesia). A light railway leads from Uram Rus
to (41/2 M.) the small port of Mirsa Umbdrek or Merta Imbarak , on the
Red Sea.
Travellers going on from Aba Shar el-Kibli , Kcseir, or Berenike to
Sinai (comp. Baedeker^ i Palestine and Syria) or Arabia cross the Red Sea
to one of the ports on the E. coast, where Tilr (Tor ; p. 424), Minat el-Wej
(El-Wedj), Yanbo (Yainbo) el-Bah\ a.ai. Jidda (Jeddah; p. 424) are called at
everv fortnight by the Khediviail Mail Line.
24*
378
26. The Western Oases.
By the term Oasis (Egypt, rvel, Arab, el-vidli) is generally
understood a fertile and inhabited spot in the midst of the desert.
More correctly, however, the oases are large depressions in the de-
sert-plateau, of which a comparatively very small area is really fer-
tile, by far the larger portion being desert. The fertility of the oases
depends upon the existence of a water-supply lying in a stratum of
sandstone, from 300 to 550 ft. below the surface, and rendered avail-
able either by natural springs .or by deep artesian wells. Fertile
land, therefore, is usually found in the lowest parts of an oasis.
The live Egyptian oases, situate! in the Libyan Desert (comp.
p. Ixx), have an aggregate population of 38,000. Khdrgeh is connected
with the Nile valley by railway, and is therefore easily visited; the
oihera (Slweh, Tiahr7y€h, Fardfra. and Ddkhleh} are reached by camel-
caravans (romp. p. XXV ).
Siweh.
The Oasis of Siweh (Slum), the Atvmonium or seat of the oracle
of Jupiter Ammon, is the most westerly of the oases and lies 15-20
days' journey from the Nile valley. The best starting-points for a visit
to this spot are Cairo and Alexandria, where also the caravan can
be organized. The route from Cairo leads via Ahii Rodsh (p. 139) to
the Convent of St. Macarius (Deir Abu Makar, p. 32) in the Wadi
Natron, and thence to the W. to the uninhabited depression of
Moghara, 7-8 days from Cairo. In 7 days more, proceeding via Blr
(Iharddlk and Wddi Letheileh , we reach the small oasis of Odra,
or Umm es-Sughair [i.e. 'the wliite mother). The little village, which
has about fourscore inhabitants , occupies a low limestone rock.
Thence 3 days' march brings us to Siweh. — From Alexandria we
may follow the caravan-route to the S.W. via the City of St. Menus
(p. 28) to join the Cairo route at Moghara (see above). Or we may
send the camels on to Ed-Daba' (p. 29), join them there by means
of the Maryfit railway (p. 27), and go on to the seaport of Mirsa
Matruli (p. 29) in two days. Thence the caravan-route, known as the
Sikket es-Sultan (•sultan road") or Sikket Istabl ('stable road'), the
route followed by Alexander the Great (p. 29), leads to Siweh In
7 days, via the Wddi Rami and B'lr Goaiferi and thence through the
Pass of Kanais and past several wells to the Eds el-Hamrayeh.
The Oasis of Shceh lies about 78 ft. below the level of the sea,
in N. lat. 29"12' and E. long. 25"30'. After the visit of Pausanias,
the Greek traveller, in 160 A. D., the first European to penetrate to
this oasis was Browne (p. 126) in 1792, who may thus rank as the
vediscoverer of the Ammonium. The inhabitants (3884 in number)
are chiefly Berbers and, like the Berbers of North Africa, have a
language of their own, though the men speak and understand Arabic
also. Besides a number of smaller settlements there are two large
^T^ Wadi —
L adjjj^s
E=^
.Ucl<l(/ ^
^
Biirket Qjjl'uti, -
Badn^i
Jei." iif^ cl-Teir -^
, . - \ ClTni V-
.'5
afra Oasis
"■Belli Uasan
\H''Agol"' TKfiirlu
A-z/tJ/" (//■■Tell el-Amaiita . -
\'^S<;-\bu Foda
Af(Ul/iitiit^t ifi<»^'•/■/;n^^r-;«•.■
ifl-Badari
JS'i,
Ta:
W^
G.KulVa j
G.lTmSidr
BdhtJ inMii
X Ba/i^ftii^
l-CailUaiiti Q^
srDsLkhl
G. Rami ifUrj^^iO
BRIIfLTga
KHA&ck'bA^IS
tabeifa
TMJ i, NIIJLE
roni Cairo lo Aswan
and A-o— •
The Western Oases <-/j^^
1 : 5.000.000
1— < ? . V .i-J°Knglisli Miles
■ t^<"> T^r Tn^r r^°Kilomelres
Cultii-atcd land bCoptic Monastery-
Jpriruf.Jt'etl Heights in Metres
yaqtid
THEBESKfK7-/i,M
Jel Tiul ''-Ve
fSnisl-AJuruw ■'•
errors;
vH
■ A Tlpbcs' Gco|r.F.slabl'. Leipzig
I \AinX
KHARGEH. ^6. Route. 379
villages, built upuii isolated rocks, viz. Stweh and Aghurmi. Date-
palms and olive-trees are the chief support of the inhabitants.
The most important relics of antiquity are the rock -tombs of the
Kuril el- Mjisabbertn (Gehei eL- Mula)^ near Siweh; the temple of
Ayhunni (now almost entirely taken up by modern dwellings), in
which we may recogirize the seat of the oracle of Jupiter Ammon;
and the almost wholly destroyed temple at Vmmebeida^ 1/2 .^•
from Aghurmi.
Travellers are recommended to return to the S.E. via the oasis
of Bahriyeh (see below) to the Faiyflm or the Nile valley.
Comp. A, Silva While's From Sphinx to Oracle: through the Libyan
Desert to the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon (London, 1899) and Steindorff's
l>urch die Liliysche Wiiste zur Aiiiousoase (Leipzig, 1904).
Bahriyeh.
The Oasis of Bahbiykh {Baharia; 'the northern'), or Oasis of
Behnesa ( Wdh el-Behnesa) , the 'Little Oasis' of the ancients. Is
reached in S'/a^^^iys from Medinet el-Faiyum (comp. pp. 193, 197)
or in 3-4 days from Maghagha (p. 207). A desert-route leads also
in 4 days from Behnesa (p. 207) to Bahriyeh. The oasis is about
11 M. long and S'/'i M. broad and is situated in N. lat. 28°23' and
K. long. 28''19'. The population numbers 6773. The chief villages
are El-Kasr (635 ft.) and Bawlli (370 ft.), to the E. of which are
the hamlets of Mendlslich and Zabu. The remains of antiquity in
this oasis are very scanty.
Comp. Ball <t /leadnell's Baharia Oasis, its Topography and Gcdlo'^iy
(Cairo, 1903; 20 pias.) and f^leindorff's vulume uientioued above.
Farafra.
The Oasis of Farafra (230 ft.), with 632 inhab., is of. little im-
portance except as a station on the route between Bahriyeh and
Dakhleh (p. 382). It lies about 5 days' march (ca. 72 M.) to the
N.N. \V. of the latter. Assiut (p. 232) is the best starting-point for
a visit from Egypt (8-10 days), but the oasis is frequently visited
also from Manfalut (p. 218).
Comp. BeadnelVs Faral'ra Oasi.«, its Topography and Geology (Cairn
1801; 15 pias.).
Khargeh.
The Oa.sis of Khaugku ( Khanja) is connected by the Western
Oases Railway^ 122 M. in length, with Khargeh Junction, on the
line from Cairo to Luxor (p. 222). A visit to it is highly recom-
mended to travellers who are attracted by the prospect of a railway
journey through the desert and an opportunity of becoming acquainted
with the scenery and life of an oasis. The railway was purchased
by government in 1909 from the Corporation of Western Egypt
(p. 380).
380 UouU 26. KHAKGEH. Western Oaien.
There are two trains weekly in each direction in O-D'/jhrs. : from Khar-
geh Junction on Tues. ti Frid., returning from El-Khargeh on Jlon. <fe Thurs.
(1st cl. fare to Headquarters 78 pias.)- The evening express train from
Cairo connects at Khargeh Juni-tion with the oasis train (from Cairo to the
junction, 334'/2M., fares 173, 86V2 pias.). Previous notice should be given,
as the rest-house at Headquarters is often overcrowded. — Those who reach
the junction at other times {e.g. coming from Luxor) proceed by a trolley,
which must be ordered in advance, to El-Kara (see below) and spend
the night there.
Diverging from the Cairo and Luxor line at lOiargeh Junction or
O ash Junction i^Muadet el-Khargeh; p. 222), the Oases Railway runs
to the W., at tirst through cultivated land but afterwards ascending
towards the desert, to (3'/2 M.) El-Kara {^Qara; good nightquarters
and entertainment in the railway rest-house, 4 beds, pens. 70 pias.).
A halt for breakfast is made here. The line follows the edge of
the cultivated land a little farther, then strikes oiT into the desert,
gradually ascending through a valley narrowing as we ascend and
flanked by picturesque rocks. At 25 M. the plateau is reached, and
a boundless sea of gravelly desert extends on every hand, giving
place farther on to a rocky waste. After 90 M. the railway begins
to descend through a rocky valley of peculiar beauty. It then crosses
a wirle plain and at (106 M.) Meherik (Mahariq), where the first
vegetation appears, reaches the level of the oasis. — 112 M. Head-
(juarters ( Markaz esh-Shartkeh) ^ with a good rest-house (8 K., pen.«.
70 pias.), is the seat of the Corporation of Western Egypt (see
below). The Gebel Ghenneima (p. ;}82) is seen in the distance, about
5V2 M. to the E. — Near (119 M.) Nadura are the most important
ruins of antiquity (see p. 381). — 122 M, Kharijeh (Kharga), or
El-Khargeh (190 ft.), with 5362 inhab., fine palms, and two
mosques, is the chief town in the oasis. The government building
(markaz) and the post-offlce are situated in the principal square.
Part of the town is a labyrinth of narrow dark lanes, roofed over
with palm-trunks or palm-branches daubed with mud.
Donkeys (12 pias. per day) and Camels (20 pias. ; per half-day 12 pias.)
may be hired at Headquarters. Trolleys^ running on the railway line, cost
for the journey from Headquarters to El-Khargeh and back 15 pias. when
drawn by mules iir 25 pias. when pushed by men.
The Oasis of Khuryeh, the 'Southern Oasis' of the ancient Egyp-
tians, the 'Great Oasis' of the Greeks, forms a district of the pro-
vince of Assiut. It is about 185 M. long and 20-50 M. broad, and
is situated iuN. lat. 25°26' and E. long. 30"33'. The population
numbers 8383. Like all the oases Khargeh is surrounded by a toler-
ably steep chain of cretaceous limestone hills, which rises in terraces
to the height of 1410 ft. on the side next the desert. Thanks to numer-
ous springs issuing freely from clefts in the cretaceous marl, the oasis
was extremely fertile in antiquity and contained many towns and
settlements, whose ruins exist to this day. Even in ancient times
Khargeh was connected by a caravan-road with Abydos (p. 237).
In the middle ages, however, its prosperity waned. At the present
time an effort is being made by the Corporation of Western Egypt,
Western Oaies. KilAKGElI. 26. lioule. 381
a company which built the railway, to extend the area of cultivation
by boring artesian wells. About 40 such wells have already been
sunk, by whicli nearly 1000 acres have been reclaimed from the
desert. Cotton is the chief crop in summer, wheat and barley in
winter. Vines, bananas, and vegetables of various kinds are grown
also. But the main wealth of the oasis still consists in its date-palms,
about 40,000 in nninher.
Visitors who spend only one day in the oasis should visit the Christian
necropolis, the tiiuiple nCUibis, the town of KhSrgeh, and, if time permit,
the temple of Nadur.-i und the Ooptie convent. Visitors with more time
will find the irrigation-system and cultivation of the oasis of interest.
Couip. Ball's Khar^a Oasis, its 'J'opography and Geology (Cairo, 1900;
25 pias ) and ISeadnelVs An Egyptian Oasis (London, 1909; lOs.^d.).
The chief Ruins in the N. part of the oasi.-, which may be con-
veniently visited from Nadura (p. 1-580), are those of the large —
Temple of Hibis , picturesquely situated in a grove of palms.
10 min. to the S.W. of the station. This temple, built by Darius I
in honour of Amon (comp. pp. cvi, clxvi), was excavated by the
archaeological expedition of the Metropolitan Museum of New York in
1909-11 and has been restored by the Egyptian Department of An-
tiquities. The axis of the temple runs E. and W., and the building is
approached through four gateways. On the right wing of the second
gateway is a Greek inscription of 66 lines, dating from the 2nd year
of the Roman emperor Galba (69 A. D.). We enter the temple through
a Colonnade, built by Nektanehes (378-361 B.C.), which is adjoined
by a Colonnaded Court. Beyond tliese are a Vestibule (pronaos) and
the small Hyp ostyle Hall, borne by eight columns. A staircase to the
left leads to a chamber dedicated to the cult of Osiris. In the Sanc-
tuary, in the main axis, are some interesting representations of gods
(Astarte on horseback, Astarte with bow and arrows, etc.). To the left
is a staircase ascending to the roof, to the right is a small chamber
with a representation of the god Khnum shaping the king on the
potter's wheel. — On a hill, 20 min. to the S.E., is the —
Temple of Nadura, which dates from the time of Antoninus Pius
(138-161 A.D.) and is surrounded by a lofty brick wall. The pro-
naos, which was separated from the forecourt on the E. by columns
connected by stone screens, is in good preservation. — The trigono-
metrical survey mark beside the temple commands an excellent view
of the N. portion of the oasis. — On a ridge about ^/o M. to the N.
of the temple of ilibis is the —
'Christian Necropolis, in which are several hundred brick tombs.
Most of these are arranged on either side of a broad avenue. The
typical tomb consists of a domed chamber, frequently with an E.
apse and side-recesses, and a vestibule; the larger tombs are practi-
cally miniature basilicas. The facades are not unfrequently adorned
with pilasters or semi-columns and contain triangular recesses for
the reception of lamps. Few of the internal decorations are pre-
served ; in one tomb is a representation of Daniel in the den of lions,
382 Route '26. DAKHLEU.
another has sceues from biblical hibtory. — Between the temple and
the necropolis lie the —
Ruins of the Roman Town- of Hibis (Egypt. Hibet), Some of the
houses of which are in good preservation. — About 1/2 M. to the N.
of the necropolis stands the —
Christian Convent (Kasr 'Ain Mustafa Kdshif), a brick structure
in admirable preservation. The entrance, on the N. side, is protected
by a lofty square tower. In the W. half are the monks' cells, with
\aulted roofs, arranged one above the other in several stories, in the
E. half are the refectory, the common room, the chapel, etc.
An expedition to the Roman Fort of Ed-Deir is recommended.
This lies about 7 M. to the N.E. of Headquarters (IV2 l'^"- by trotting-
camel), on the caravan-route to Girgeli (p. 221). The large fort is
provided with round towers; on the N. side is a temple. There are
other ruins in the vicinity, and i^j^ M. to the S. is the flat-topped
Gebei Ohenneiina or Gennihma (1270 ft.), the highest point in the
oasis (view).
Excursions to the South Portions of the Oasis are practicable
only for those who know Arabic or who bring a dragoman with them
from Cairo or Luxor. Camels and other necessaries may be obtained
from the Corporation of Western Egypt at lleadiiuarters (p. 380). —
About ^fn\a.y''& march brings us to the village and ruins (Ptolemaic
temple) of Knsr el-Glnieida, situated about the middle of the oasis, to
the S. of the Kurn el-Gennah. About 2l/oM. farther on is the village
i)i Kasr 'Ain tz-Zuiijun (Qasr Zaiyan)^ near which, within a lofty
girdle-wall of brick, lie a precinct covered with small brick huts and
a temple of red sandstone adorned with reliefs and inscriptions.
A journey of I'/o-"^ I'^ys to the S. from this point, via the large
village of Birh (Barls) or Rerys (170 ft. ; inn to the E. of the village)
and El-Maks, brings us to the Kasr Dusk, the Kysis of the ancients,
with a large temple of the Komaii imperial epoch. There is another
brick temple in the vicinity.
Dakhleh.
The Oasis of Dakhleh (Dakhia, Dakhel), the most populous of
the oates (18,368 inhab.), is situated in N. lat. 25°24' and E. long.
28''54', 43 M. to the W. of Khargeh, and may be reached from the
town of El-Khargch in 3 days' marches. From Assiut (p. 232) it is
reached in about 7 days. The chief places in the oasis are El-Kusr
(3U00 inhab.), GedUeh (2536 inhab.), Balat (2219 inhab.), 'aiJd
Kalamun (2000 inhab.). About 2 hrs. to the S.W. of El-Kasr is a
large ruined temple of the Roman imperial era.
Comp. BeadnelVs Dakhla Oasis, i(s Topi graphv and Geoli gy (Cairo
1901; 20 piaa.).
LOWER NUBIA.
Route Page
Preliminary Information 383
Land and People. — History 384, 385
27. From Shellal (Phila;) to Kalabslah 887
28. From Ivalabsheh to Korosko 393
29. From Korosko to Abu Simbel 399
30. The Kock Temples of Abu Simbel 404
31. From Abu Simbel to Wadi Haifa 410
Excnrsions from Wadi Haifa 412
Tickets of Admission to the antiquities, see p. 200. — As
Shellal (Philae) is not yet united by railway witli Wadi Haifa, visitors
to Lower Nubia are practically dependent upon the steamboats. The
journey by land, on camels or donkeys, is fatiguing and by no means
recommended; and the costly dahabiyeh (p. 204) will be employed,
only by travellers with special aims, sui:h as archieologists or painters
Steamboats. Regular communication between Shellal and Wadi
Haifa is maintained by the Sudan Government Express Stkamers
Sudan and Britain, which leave Shellal, in connection with the train
from Cairo and Luxor, about 7 p.m. on Tues. and Thurs., taking about
42 hrs., and from mid- Jan. to mid-March also by the Ibis, leaving
on Sun. at 6 a.m., taking 32 hrs. The return-journey is made from
Haifa, starting at about 11 p.m. on Friil. and Sun., in 34 hrs. (also
on Tues, from mid- Jan. to mid-March). The boats are stern-
wheelers and are excellently fitted up. Allowing II/2 ^^y i" Haifa
in order to visit the Second Cataract, the round trip can be accom-
plished in 4'/2"5 days. The fares in either direction are 1st cl. £E 4,
50 pias., 'ind cl. (for European servants) j£E 2, 50 pias., besides
a daily charge of 70 pias. 1st cl., 40 pias. 2nd cl., for provisions.
There is no reduction on return-tickets. Luggage is charged 16mil-
liemes per 10 kilogrammes (ca. 4c/. per 22 lbs.). Although these
steamers make no halt of any duration except at Haifa, travellers
who are not specially interested in archieology will obtain a suffi-
ciently adequate idea of the scenery of Nubia on this voyage. There
is usually a short halt at Abu Simbel (p. 404) on the return- voyage. —
There is also a mail-service maintained by smaller, so-called 'inter-
mediate'steamers, leaving Shellal oti Mon. and (except, from mid-
Jan, to mid -March) on Frid. and calling at some or all of the
24 intermediate stations. These return from Haifa on Sat. and (ex-
cept from mid-Jan. to mid-March ) on Wed.; fares in either direction
1st cl. j£E 3, 50 pias., 2nd cl. S, E 2, in addition to a daily charge
384 LOWER NUBIA. rrcUminary Information.
for provisions. Information and time-tables may be obtained on
application to the tourist-agents at Cairo (p. 38).
Tourist Steamers. Travellers who desire to inspect the ruined
sites of Nubia more closely will avail themselves of one of the
tourist-steamers which devote a week to the round trip (fare 20i. ;
return-fare from Cairo by steamer all the way, from 45f., comp.
p. 201). Messrs. Cook's steamers Thebes (42 berths) and Prince
Abbas (44 berths) leave Shellal respectively every Moii. from Dec.
to the middle of March and every Wed. in Jan. and Feb.; while
the Niibia (42 berths) of the Hamburg & Anglo- American Nile Co.
leaves Shellal every Wed. from Christmas to the middle of March.
In consequence of the heightening of the dam at Assuan (p. 371)
the Nile banks in Northern Nubia will be under water during the
season and most of the temples will be inaccessible (comp. pp. 387,
393). White marks on the rocks indicate the highest levels hitherto
reached by the river. In summer and autumn all the ruins will be
above water.
The Itinerary of Cook's steamers announced for 1913-14 is as
follows ; that of the Hamburg & Anglo-American Nile Co. differs
from it in only a few unimportant details.
1st Day. Start from Shellal (Philae) at 9.30 a.m. Past Debod,
Kertassi, and Kalabsheh (the temple is visited on the return-jour-
ney) to Dendi'ir (visit to the temple, p. 393) and then on to Gerf-
llusein (p. 394), where the temple is visited in the evening.
"Jnd Day. Via Sebu'a (inspection of the temple) and past Ko-
rosko to'Amada (inspection of the temple, p. 399), then past Derr
to Kasr Ibrtm (view of sunset from the hill).
3rd Day. To Abu Simbel, reached about noon. Visit to the
temples, pp. 404 et seq.
dth Day. To Wadi Haifa (p. 411), arriving about 1 p.m.
5th Day. Excursion to the Second Cataract (p. 412) in the morn-
ing. Inspection of the town and its bazaar in the afternoon.
6th Day. Return -jourTiey begins. Voyage to Gebel Addeh
(p. 410), where the rock-temple is visited, and thence to Dakkeh
(p. 395) or to some point still farther to the N.
7th Day. Past Dendur to Kalabsheh (inspection of the temples,
pp. 389 et seq.) and to Shellal, arriving in the afternoon.
Land and People. Nubia (Arab. Bildd cl-Barcibra') extends
from the First Cataract to Merowe (p. 420), i.e. to 18° N. latitude.
It is divided into Lower Nubia (from Philae to Haifa) and Upper
Nubia (from Haifa southwards). Politically, the portion to the N.
of Faras (p. 411) belongs to the Egyptian mudiriyeh of Assuan,
in which it forms the district of Derr. The rest of Lower Nubia
and the whole of Upper Nubia has, since its reconquest in 1898
( p.oxxv), beenplaced underthe administration of the Anglo-Egyptian
vSiidan. In Tjower Nubia the cultivable area is seldom more than a
few hundred yards in width; and at not a few points, especially on
History. LOWER NUBIA. 385
the W. bank, the desert advances clear up to the riTer-brink. The
population is ia consequence very scanty, viz. 96,500 in 1^97.
Comp. p. Ix. — All the countries on the Upper Nile , from the
borders of Egypt southwards, were included by the ancient Egyptians
under the single name of Kosh, the Cttsh of the Bible. The Greeks
and Romans called thom Ethiopia. Lower Nubia was more particularly
known to the Egyptians as the land of Scti and consisted, as it does
to-day, of a number of separate districts (^e.g. the land of Weirei).
The present inhabitants of Nubia are more faithful to their ancient
manners and customs than the Egyptians. When the huge storage-
lake, extending far into Northern Nubia, was formed by the dam at
Assuan, the villages within its basin were either deserted or re-
moved to the heights. This fact accounts for the numerous ruined
villages seen under water or on the edge of the lake (comp. p. 384).
History. Lower Nubia, whence the Egyptians procured their
supplies of incense and other products of the Sudan, is mentioned
in some of the earliest Egyptian texts. Its relations with Egypt were
still closer under the kings of the 6th Dyn., who there enlisted negro
mercenaries, while the princes of Elephantine dispatched great
trading expeditions to the lands of the Upper Nile. But it was not
until the period of the 12th Dyn. that the conquest of Nubia was
undertaken and the borders of Egypt advanced to Semneh (p. 413).
In order to guard the newly acquired possessions against the attacks
of the negroes a chain of forts was erected in the rocky valley of Batn
cl-Hagar (p. 412), with its numerous cataracts, between Haifa and
Semneh. From this base the Pharaohs of the 18th Dyn. penetrated
still farther to the S. and made themselves masters of the land of
Kosh as far as Napnta (p. 419), which then became the southernmost
city of the empire. The conquered regions were incorporated with
the southernmost department of Egypt proper, which began at El-Kab
(p. 333), and the whole of the great province thus formed was placed
under an official who bore the title of 'Prince of Kosh and Governor
of the Southern Lands'. Under the established rule of Egypt Nubia
rapidly prospered; new towns were founded, and beautiful temples,
little inferior in size and embellishment to those of the motherland,
arose in profusion, especially on the W. bank of the Nile, which
was safer from the attacks of the E. Beduins. Most of these temples
were dedii-atcd to the great Egyptian gods, Anion, Re-Harakhte,
and Ptah ; but iu some of them other deities also were worshipped,
such as Isis and others of the ICgyptian gods, the local Nubian god
Tetun, the deceased King Sesostris IlL, who united the roles of
first conqueror and patron-saint of Nubia, and occasionally also the
reigning king and queen (pp. 395, 398, 404, 408, 409). The temple
inscriptions were composed in the Egyptian language and written
in the Egyptian character, and Egyptian became the official lan-
guage, although the great mass of the people adhered to their native
Nubian tongue.
386 LOWER NDBIA.
Nubia continued to be a dependency of the PJiaraohs until about
1100 B.C. But when the power of Egypt waned under the 21st Dyn.
(p. civ) Nubia shook off her allegiance and a native Ethiopian
MoNAECHY was established, with Napata as its capital (p. 419 ). But
the civilization of this kingdom continued to be Egyptian ; and its
monarchs, who were dependent on the priests, regarded themselves
as the true protectors of the Egyptian religion and as the legitimate
rulers of Egypt. About 730 B.C. tlie Ethiopian Piankhi (p. civ)
temporarily overran all Egypt, and shortly afterwards an Ethiopian
dynasty (the 25th; p. cv) established itself firmly on the Egyptian
throne. But in little more than a century (about 663 B.C.) these
Kthiopian Pharaohs were forced to give way before the Assyrians,
and their kingdom was restricted to Nubia, of which the N. border
then lay near Phila; (Konosso, p. 371).
The Egyptian civilization gradually declined in Nubia. The
Egyptian hieroglyphic writing became corrupted and a native Meroi-
tic hieroglyphic and cursive character was developed (p. cxxxi),
which, about the beginning of the Christian era, began to he used
for writing the native Nubian language even in official documents.
About 600 B.C. the royal residence was transferred from Napata to
Mero'd (p. 422), which lay farther to the S. Comparatively full
information has come down to us concerning the earlier kings who
dwelt at Meroe. We know also of the unsuccessful campaign of the
army of Fsaimneiichos II. against Lower Nubia (about 590 B.C.) and
of the attempts of Cambyses (525 B.C.) to conquer Ethiopia, which
were foiled mainly by the energetic Ethiopian King Nmtesen.
After that an almost impenetrable veil falls over the history of the
country.
During the Ptolemaic and Roman Imperial Epochs the S.
boundary of Egypt was near Hierasykaminos (p. 397), and it was
occasionally pushed farther S. as far as Primis (p. 402). On the
other hand the Nubians sometimes succeeded in extending their
power as far N. as Phils, and perhaps even occupied part of Upper
Egypt. When the Romans first came to Egypt Ethiopia was gov-
erned by a succession of queens named Candace. One of these
attacked the Roman province, but was repulsed by the Roman gov-
ernor Petronius in 23 B.C. The Ethiopian kingdom seems soon
afterwards to have fallen into disorder and to have split np into a
number of small principalities. About this time also the Blem-
ynyes, a nomadic race of the E. desert, who had previously acknow-
ledged the suzerainty of Ethiopia, assumed an aggressive attitude.
Not content with harassing the N. parts of Lower Nubia, they car-
ried their depredations also into the Roman territory in S. Egypt,
until finally the Romans gave way before them. Diocletian (about
iiOO A.D.) withdrew from Nubia altogether, retiring within the
bounds of ICgypt proper, to the N. of Philie. The Blemmyes, how-
ever, in alliance vi-ith the Nubians, continued their attacks on Upper
T W E m IJ
FROM AS S U.
THE SECOND CJ
I : LOOO.OOO
AljuHamed.Klia
C T
®
.Dunqul ■
V
G«-belOiuSlinbrfv\ c,*"
*'»^)-.lfo.A'...'/
Ylfvisial Jf'<,7ti^<, -^
Wagner Aa)etoes'Geo2^Estab* Leipz
DEROI). 27. Ronff. 387
Esypt; bnt In 451 A.D. they were defeated by Marciaji, who coii-
i-.liided a peace witli them (p. 364).
Christianity established itself at Philae in the 4th cent., and
thence extended throughout Nubia, where the temples were con-
verted into churches. In G40 A.D. Egypt and tlie Upper Nile Valley
fell into the hands of the Mohammedans. 'j4Tnr (p. cxiii) penetrated
as far as Dongola and imposed tribute upon Nubia, but no enduring
subjugation of the country was efl'ected. Shams ed-D61a, brother
of Saladin, took possession of the fortress of ihrim (p. 402) in 1173
and plundered the church -treasury; but Christianity yielded to
Islam very gradually, and a Christian kingdom lingered at Soba
on the Blue Nile (p. 432) nntil the middle ages. We know little
of the Mohammedan principalities established at Derr, Dongola,
Sennar, and other points in Nubia. In 1821 Isma'il Pasha con-
quered the whole of Nubia for his father, Mohammed Ali, Pasha of
Egypt. For the later history of the country, the Mahdist rebellion,
and the reconquest by Kitchener, see pp. cxxiv. cxxv.
27. From Shellal (Pliilee) to Kalabsheh.
31 M. )!T Steamboat (comp. pp 383, 334). — Huring the winter-season the
quarric and fort :it Kertassi and the temple.s at 'fafeh and Koldhsheh will
lie flooded and therefore inaceessiblo, except in some cases by small boat.
As we leave Shellal (p. .^(i3) we have a line view of the mined
temples of Philae { p. 3t55 ) and of the rocks of Bigysh (p. 370). To the
S.W. of Biggeh lies El-IIe.'<s(h (Hem), the largest of the cataract-is-
lands, where the cemetery of the priests of Fhilre was discovered. On
the E. bank are the villages of El-BCih and Bdl<U (El-Meshhed), with
picturesque ancient mosques. On the rocks above Belial is a sheikh's
tomb. — On the E. bank, opposite the S. eml of J'21-Hesseh, is a
rock-inscription of Pliiops I., relating to his victory over the Nubians.
At El-(rudhi the river bends to the S.W., afterwards returning
to its S. direction. The scenery becomes less wild, and a narrow
strip of verdure appears on each bank. — To the W. is the Gebel
Sheimet el-Wcih. From time to time we observe ancient dykes of
huge stones ( on both banks), and on the summits of the higher hills
are ruined guard-houses, dating from the Mahdi.st insurrection.
d^/oM. Behoi (Dahod) , a village -community on both banks.
On the W. bank are traces of an ancient quay and the —
Temple ok Dkbod, situated near the river. This temple was
built by the Nubian kinj: Ezekher-Amun, a contemporary of the
earlier Ptolemies, and it was enlarged by Ptolemy Philometor. From
a modern flight of steps we pass through two Doorwaiis, on the
second of which appear the winged sun-disk and a Greek inscription
in favour of Ptolemy Philometor and his consort Cleopatra. About
42 ft. beyond a third doorway (now ruined) is the temple proper.
Of the Vestibule^ the fai;ade of which was borne by four columns
388 Route 27. TAFEH. From Shdldl
with rich floral capitals, connected by stone screens, little now re-
mains. The reliefs on the facade show Augustas or Tiberins in pres-
ence of various deities. The side-walls of the First Hall are decorated
with reliefs in two rows, exhibiting Ezekher-Amnn sacrificing to
various deities. Over the door is a votive inscription of the same
monarch. Thence we proceed through an Antechamber (without de-
coration) to the Sanctuary^ which contains ^.Granite Naos, dating
from Euergetes II. and Cleopatra (p. cix). The adjoining chambers
contain nothing of interest.
At Dimri (W. bank) is an ancient wall; and on the E. bank
farther on is the fragment of a quay-wall, with a staircase. The
island of Morgos (Markos), next passed, has some picturesque ruins
of houses, apparently of mediaeval origin.
171/2 M. J^ehmU (Dehmiet), on both banks, is a steamboat station.
— 26 M. Ambarkab, with considerable hamlets on both banks.
To the right ( W. bank) next appears the small temple of
Kertassi (Oirtas), an attractive building on a rocky plateau, recall-
ing the 'Kiosque' at Philae (p. 370). It is only 25 ft. square.
Columns, connected by stone screens, once supported the roof, of
which only a single cross-beam now remains. Two Hathor-columns
(at the entrance, which faces N.) and four other columns with elab-
orate flower-capitals (two on each side) are now standing.
To the S. is an embankment constructed to protect the valley
from inundation, and farther on are extensive ^Sandstone Quarries,
which yielded the stone for the temples at Philae. They contain
numerous Greek votive inscriptions (and one demotic) dating from
the Roman imperial epoch (Antoninus, Marcus Aurelius, Septi-
mius Severus, Caracalla, Gordian). These are addressed to Isis and
to the Nubian deities Sruptichis and Pursepmunis. Two busts in
high relief and an empty niche, with an Egyptian doorway, also
deserve notice. — At the end of the quarries (3/4 M. from the
temple) is a Roman Fort (perhaps the ancient Tzitzi') , with a
girdle-wall of large hewn stones, the inner core of which has dis-
appeared, leaving only the outer shell. The gateway on the N. side
shows the Egyptian concave cornice. On the W. side we may trace
the ancient ditch.
Farther on the river-valley narrows and lofty cliffs approach
close to the stream.
Tafeh (^Teifeh, Teifa; W. bank), the ancient Taphis. On the river
bank are the remains of a narrow quay, on the S. side of which is a
small nilometer. The little Temple, of the Roman period, was left
unfinished and has no mural reliefs. The entrance faces the S. The
facade is supported by two columns with elaborate floral capitals.
In the interior of the temple are four standing columns, with floral
capitals. — To the N. are the remains of some large structures,
perhaps the relics of a fortified camp. — To the S. of the village
to tCalabi>heh KALABSnllH. 27. noute. 389
lay a second temple, which, however, was entirely destroyed in the
latter half of the 19th century. To the W. is a Mohammedan cemetery
of an early period, with many Cuflc inscriptions. On the hill above
is a castellated building.
Beyond Tafeh the dark shining rocks advance close to both river
banks, forming a kind of rocky gateway, known as the Bab el-
Kalabsheh. At a few isolated points a narrow strip of cultivated
land with palms borders the river; and on the E. bank lies a small
village. The navigation of this reach is somewhat intricate, owing
to the numerous rocky islands. At the point where the valley ex-
pands again lies a small island, with some ruined buildings.
31 M. Kaldbshehf Kalabsha) formsa.\^TgB commune on both banks
of the Nile. — From Khartum, a small village on the W. bank, a
desert-route leads round the Bab el-Kalabsheh to Tafeh (p. 388).
On this route, about '/i M. from the village, is a rock-inscription,
dating from the I'Jth year of King Taharka (p. cv). About l'/4 M.
farther on, on a small plateau, is the ruined church o( Sitteh dasma,
built of rough stones.
Hard by the river, as we proceed to the S., lie the ruins of the
ancient town of Talnti?. Closely hemmed in by modern houses
appears the large and picturesque —
*Temple of Kal&bsheli, built in the reign of Augustus on the
site of an earlier sanctuary founded by Amenophis II. and refounded
by one of the Ptolemies. It was never completely adorned with
reliefs and inscriptions; and the reliefs that are finished are very
crude, while the subjects of the representations are frequently
misunderstood. The temple was probably dedicated in the first place
to the god Mandulis (p. 366), to whom are addressed most of the
dedicatory inscriptions to be found on the pylons, the walls of the
vestibule, and elsewhere. It was converted into a church on the
introduction of Christianity. The building is in comparatively good
preservation and has recently been restored.
The approach to the temple (^comp. tlie Plan, p. 390) is formed
by a Causeway, about 100 ft. long and 25 ft. broad, constructed of
hewn stones and still in excellent preservation. At the end next
the river is a rectangular projection, below which passes a road; at
the landward end a flight of low steps ascends to a long and narrow
platform immediately in front of the pylon.
The Pylon (PI. AA), the principal entrance to the temple-pre-
cincts, stands at a slight angle with the axis of the temple and
causeway. Only the top of it has been destroyed, but it has no reliefs
whatever, with the exception of two representations of gods in the
doorway. Each tower of the pylon has a groove for a flag- staff
comp. p. 344).
The Court (PI. B), between the pylon and the vestibule, was
surrounded on three sides by colonnades, of wliich four columns
(with ricli floral capitals) on each side (N. and S.) arc now erect.
390
Route 27.
KAT.ARSHKn.
Temple of
111 the W. side of the S. pylon -tower are two doors, cue (N.)
leading to a chamber, the other (S.) to a staircase ascending in
three flights to the roof (fine view). The N. tower also contains a
staircase. On each side of the court four narrow chambers have
been constructed in the wall; and a door in the N. colonnade com-
municates with the passage round the temple and with a crypt.
The rear wall of the court
forms the imposing facade
of the vestibule, which
is entered by the large
portal in the miildle. Be-
tween the columns are
four stone screens.
On the first sci'een to
tlie left Thout and Ilorus
are shown anointing the king
with the consecrated water,
(ypified by the hieroglyphs
for 'life' and 'purity'. Adja-
cent sits the god Harsiesis
of Talinis.
On the first screen to the
right is a Greek inscription.
This is a decree of Aurelius
I?esarion, also named Amo-
nius, governor of Umbos and
Elephantine, ordering the
owners of swine to remove
their animals from the holy
Talmis. It probably dates
from 248-9 A.D. — On the
second column to the right
;ire two Greek inscriptions,
between which is a long
inscription in the Meroitic
cursive character (p. cxxxi).
— The most interesting in-
scription, however, is on the
right corner of the facade.
This U the Memorial Inscription of Silko, sub-king of the Nubians and all
the Ethiopians (ca. 5th cent. A.D.), in which he celebrates, in bad Greek,
his victory over the Blemmyes, whom he defeated 'from Prlmis to Talmis,
advancing as far as Taphis and Talmis'.
The Vestibule, or Pronaos (PI. C), the roof of which has fallen
in, has 12 columns, with elaborate floral capitals. Most of the reliefs
represent the emperor in presence of the gods; two, on the rear
fW.l wall, to the left of the door, deserve notice. One shows one of
the Ptolemies presenting a field to Isis, Mandulis, and a third deity;
the other (to the right) represents Amenophis 11., founder of the
original temple (p. 389), offering a libation of wine to Min and
Mandulis. On the stone screen to the left of the entrance is a later
Christian painting of the Hebrew Children in the fiery furnace.
The following *Thker Rooms (PI. D, E, F) have well-preserved
reliefs, with vivid colouring, depicting the emperor in presence of
-—^-^■a
Kair,bsheh. KALABSHEH. 27. Route 391
tin; {TOils of Talmis aiiii other deities. At the foot of the walls of
Jiooni D are depicted local deities with their offerings. Many of the
inscriptions are merely sketched in in red. Small chamb'rs have
been (constructed in tlie S. walls of Koonis U and E. From Room D
we reach the Stnircase, which ascends in the thickness of the wall
to the roof of Room V. Thence the higher roofs of the front portions
of the temple are riached by steps. Another staircase leads from
the roof of Room 1<; to the top of the (external wall. Descending a
few steps to the left, we reach a Chapel formed in the thickness of
the wall. This compris?s two rooms (with a crypt in the second)
and wa.-i probably intended for the cult of Osiris.
The Inner Pass.\ge (PI. G) round the temple is entered by doors
in the court and vestibule. The unfinished lions' heads on the ex-
terior of the temple proper are water-spouts. On the rear wall is
a large relief of the emperor before the gods; below are smaller
reliefs. The two representations of Mandulis, on the girdle-wall
opposite these reliefs, were probably originally protected by a
small wooden chapel. At PI. a, on the S. side, is a well-preserved
Nilometer.
The W. part of the girdle-wall of the Outer. Passage (PI. H)
round the temple was built against the rock. The small Chapel
( IM. I) in the S.W. angle was perhaps a Birth House. It includes
an unlinished open court enclosed by columns and stone screens,
and a liock Chamber (PI. L), of which only the door lias reliefs (the
emperor before the gods). — Another well-preserved Chapel (PI. K),
in the N.E. angle, probably dates from the Ptolemaic temple.
Ontside the temple are Gateways and ruins of a massive wall
of hewn stones. On the W. hill -slope are Quarriefi^ while the
Remains of the Ancient Town, the houses and girdle-wall of which
are easily traceable, stretch down into the plain. In the latter are
towers of rough stone.
We now proceed to the N. from the temple of Kalabsheh, pass
through the village, turn to the left, and reach the (1/4 hr.) —
■*Rock Temple of Beit el-Waii ('Hou.«e of the W'ali'), situated
halfway up a hill, at the mouth of a side-valley. The temple,
founded under Ramses II., consists of a vestibule, a hypostyle hall
hewn in the rock, and a small sanctuary. The Vestihule, of which
only the side-walls so far as they were formed by the rock are now
standing, besides the lately re-erected door-posts, was used as a
church in Christian times, being divided into nave and aisles and
provided with a vaulted brick roof. Our interest is excited by the
animated ^Historical Reliefs on the side-walls, of which coloured
casts have been placed in the British Museum.
Two scenes on the left wall represent the king's triumph over the
Ethiopians. In the first relief we see the king, to the right, under
a canopy, while (in the row below) Egyptian grandees present him
with tribute of various kinds, the principal object being a tablet
Baedekbr's Egypt. 7th Edit. 25
392 Route 27. KALABSHEH.
adorned with plants, from which liang rings and skins. Behind
these are two fettered negroes, after whom come negroes with offer-
ings (monkeys, greyhounds, a panther, a giraffe, cattle, an ostrich)
and women with their children (one carrying her children in a basket
held on her back by a strap round her forehead). One of the oxen
has horns represented as arms, between which is the head of a negro
suing for mercy. In the npper row we see the above-mentioned tablet
placed before the king, while the governor of Ethiopia is being adorned
with gold chains of honour ; farther on are rings of gold, chairs, ele-
phants' tusks, bows, shields, panther-skins, ebony, fans, and other
articles brought as tribute; negroes approach with their offerings
(cattle, antelopes, a lion, etc.). — In the second relief the king and
his sons appear in chariots dashing against the negro foe. The ne-
groes flee to their village, which lies among dum-palms. A wounded
negro is led by two comrades to his wife and children, while another
woman crouches over a tire and cooks a meal.
The reliefs on the right wall refer to the wars against the Syrians
and Libyans. In the first scene (beginning to the right) the Pharaoh
stands upon two prostrate enemies, grasping three others (Syrians)
by the hair, while a prince leads fettereii prisoners before him. —
In the second relief the king appears before a Syrian fortress ; on
the battlements are men and women suing for men^y (notice the
woman holding her child by the arm) ; the king seizes one of the
enemy (who holds a broken bow) by the hair to kill him; below,
one of the royal princes is beating in the doors with an axe. — The
third relief shows the king in his chariot, dashing against the fleeing
Syrians; he kills two of the foes, while two others are bound to his
chariot. — In the next scene the king smites a Libyan, while his dog
seizes the foe. — In the lifth relief we see King Kamses II. enthroned
beneath a canopy, with his lion at his feet. His son Amen-her-wnamf
leads Syrian prisoners to him.
Three doors lead from the vestibule into the Hypostyle Hall,
which was hewn in the rock. The ceiling of the hall is borne by
two 'proto-Doric' columns (p. clvii), each with four plain sides on
which are inscriptions. Tlie mural reliefs arc well executed, but
their subjects are of no special interest. 'J'hey represent the king
before the gods and (on each side of the side-doors) smiting his
enemies (a Syrian and an Ethiopian ). — The Sanctuaky has
similar reliefs. By the rear wall are three statues of the gods, now
defaced beyond recognition. Both these rock-chambers also were
used as Christian churches.
393
28. From Kalabsheh to Korosko.
Comp. the Map, p. .^S7.
87 M. BY Steamboat (coiup. pp. 383, 384). — During the winter- season
part (if the temple at DmMr, the fortress at Koshtamnrh, the temple of
Vakke/i, part of tlie fortress at Kuban, and the temples at Kttrleh and at
JUa/iarraka will be flooded and inacces.sible.
Kaldlisheh, see p. 389. — 4'/.> M. Abu Hot, on both banks, i.s
situated under the tropic of Cancer. On the K. bank lie Esh-Shigeiy
and, farther on, the chief village Abu Hor, with post and telegraph
offices. It is also a steamboat station. On the rocks on the barren
W. bank are numerous graffiti of ships and animals (some of them
of hoar antiquity) and a few inscriptions of the Middle Empire.
Abu Tnrfa (W. bank). About 1 M. to the S. is a rock-cave with
the tomb of a sheikh. The low rapids here, caused by granite rocks
in the Nile, are known as the Bab Abu Hor.
121/2 M. Murirau [Merwaw ; on both banks ) is a steamljoat station.
At KuboshCib ( Kobosh), on the W. bank, are ancient quay-walls with
a niloineter and an unfinished little rock- chapel. A little to the
N. is a curious irrigation arrangement hewn in the rock.
On the W. bank, opposite the village of Dendur (E. bank), ap-
pears the small —
Temple of Dend6r, built by Augustus and dedicated to various
gods, including Pete-ese and Fe-IJor, the sons of Kuper, two local
deified heroes. The temple stands upon a platform, immediately at
the foot of the mountains, and is preceded by a broad terrace. Of the
Pylox, which formed the entrance to the temple, only the stone door-
way remains; tlie towers, probably built of brick, have disappeared.
At the top of the portal is the winged sun-disk, and within and
on the front (E.) and back (W.J is the emperor sacrificing to various
gods. Beyond the portal we enter an open Court, which was ori-
ginally enclosed by brick walls. The facade of the Temple is adorned
with two fine columns with floral capitals, once connected with the
side-walls by stone si-reens. The temple comprises a Vestibule and
two Smaller Chambers. The former is embellished with reliefs of
the emperor in presence of the gods, whiih in the Christian period,
when the hall was used as a church, were covered with stucco bear-
ing pictures of saints. The smaller rooms have no decoration. In
the rear wall of the innermost is a False Door, surmounted by ser-
pents, with representations of tlic local saints Pete-ese and Pe-Hor
praying to Isis and Osiris. The N. and S. I'.xttrior Walls of the
temple are adorned with interi'sting reliefs. On the N. wall, to the
left of the door from the vestibule, appears the emperor ofl'ering a
piece of cloth to Pe-Hor, on the S. wall, below, to the left of the
door, he sacrifices to Pete-ese, who is accompanied by a woman,
probably his wife.
Among the various Inscripliont placed on the walls by visitors to the
temple is one in Coptic, in which a certain Presbyter Abraham records
26*
394
Route 28.
GERF-HUSEIN.
From Kaldbsheh
that he erected a cross here iu the churcb at the command of the Nubian
King Elspanome. This appears within the S. side-door of the vestibule.
Above the temple is a small Rock Chapel., with a door showing the
Egyptian cornice. In the cliffs to the N. of the temple are Quarriet, The
stones lying in front of these are, perhaps, remains ot ancient houses.
Beyond tlie steamboat station at [18'/2 M.) Merlyeh (Maria)., a
commune on both banks, the banks of the Nile become flatter and
are partly cultivated.
23 m. Girsheh {Qersha ; E. bank), situated in a wide belt of
cultivated land, lies beside the ruins of the ancient Byzantine
fortress of Sahayura. which stretches up the hill from the river and
is enclosed by strong stone
tnz
walls. — Opposite, on the W.
bank, lie the village (steam-
boat station) and —
Eock Temple of Gerf-
Husein. The Egyptian name
of this temple was Per-Ptah,
the 'House of Ptah'. It was
founded in the reign of Ram-
ses II. by Setiiw., at that time
governor of Ethiopia, and it
was dedicated to Ptah of Mem-
phis and his fellow-gods. In
front of the rock-temple pro-
per lay a quadrangular Couet
(PI. A), which was surrounded
on three sides by covered col-
onnades. The E. colonnade
had plant-columns, while the
otliers were stipported by pil-
lars, against wliich stood co-
lossal figures of Ramses II.
Two of tlie columns and five
of the pillars, with the remains
of the architrave, are still ex-
tant. The W. side of the court
is bounded by the rock-facade
of the temple, hewn to imi-
tate a pylon and decorated in
a corresponding style. On the
left side of the portal is a
relief of Ramses offering fresh vegetables to Ptah. Passing through
this portal, we enter a large Hall (PL B\ 45 ft. square, hewn out
of the rock. The ceiling is supported by six pillars, 28 ft. high,
against which are statues of the king like those in the court. On
each side of the hall are four recesses, each with the king, in the
guise of a god under various titles, standing between two deities.
to Korosko. DAKKEQ. 28. Route, 395
111 the Recesses on the f^e/t (S.) Side (from left to right): 1. The
kin^' between Amon - Re and Mut: 2. hetwcen Hurus, lord of Beki (Kn-
ban), and Horns, lord of Biihen (Ilalfa); o. between l*tah-Tenen and the
cow-headod Hathnr; 4. between PtaU and Sekhmet. — In the Recesses on
tlie Riijhl (N.) Side (from left to right): 1. The kinj; between Khnum and
Anukis ; 2. between Nefertem and Satet: 3. between Horus, lord of Mem
I'Anibeh), and Isis; 4. between Harakhte and Ews-os. — The reliefs on the
walls of the hall, showing the king before various deities, are unimportant.
The following Anteroom (PI. C), about 36 ft. wide though only
17 ft. deep, is entered by a small door, on the left side of which is
the king before Ptah. The ceiling is supported by two square pillars.
The walls and pillars are embellished with representations of the
king in presence of various gods (in<luding the deilied Ramses).
To the right and left lie two chambers. At the back are three
chapels, the central and largest of which is the Sanctuary (PI. D).
(.)n the walls of this chamber are reliefs. On the left wall Ramses
before the boat of Ptah; on the right wall, the king before the boat
of Harakhte. In the centre of the sanctuary is a pedestal, wrought
out of the rock, for the sacred boat. At the back is a recess with
four seated figures, representing (from left to right) Ptah, the dei-
fied Ramses, Ptah-Tenen, and Hathor with the cow's head.
Above Girsheh and Gerf- Iiu:^ein the scenery relapses into
monotony. — 29 M. Ko^hlmnnch, a conuuune on both banks. On
the E. bank rises the GeheL Haydli. On the \V. bank is a brick-
built fortress of the ^liddle Empire, known to the natives as KurL
I'j^tcnsive sand -banks and granite rocks interrupt the course of
the river.
35 M. Dakkeh, on the W. bank, is a steamboat station. Dakkeh
is the ancient Egyptian Per-SeUcet, 'House of (the Goddess) Selket ,
the Greek Pselcfns, near which the Roman general Petronius de-
feated the Ethiopians in 23 Pj.C. on his campaign to Napata. A
little to the N. of the landing-place and not far from the river-
bank is the —
Temple of Dakkeh, which was restored in 1908-9 by Barsanti.
The present temple occupies the site of an earlier shrine, probably
of the New Empire, and was dedicated to Thout of Pnubs, an
Ethiopian town. r>y the Greeks this god was called Paotnuphis.
The most ancient part of the building dates from the time of the
h]tliiopian king Ergamenes and his contemporary Philopator. I'^uer-
getes II. added a vestibule and the temple received its final form
under the Roman emperors by the addition of the sanctuary and
of the pylon. The tempio lies with its main axis parallel to the
river (i.e. running N. and S.), cotitrary to the usual rule in Nubian
temples.
A broad path, bordered on both sides by a row of hewn stones,
leads to the well-preserved Pyt.on, which stood in the outer girdle-
wall and formed the entrance to the temple-precincts. Each pylon -
tower has a groove for a flag-staff; and both have a few isolated
396 Route 28. DAKKEII. From KaUlbsheh
reliefs on the outside and numerous inscriptions, chiefly Greek,
(hough some, added by visitors to the temple, are demotic and
Meroitic. Within the central gateway, on the left side, is a re-
presentation of the king making offerings to Thout, Tefnut, an<l
llathor, and (below^ to Isis.
The Ascent of the Pvlon is attractive. In each tovvei- there is a stair-
case, beginning in a guard-room at the foot and passing three other rooms
in the successive stories. On the platform at the top of the W. tower are
numerous inscriptions written by visitor.? and also carved representations
of foot-prints, indicating the spots where the worshippers stood. The roof
of the central portal may he reached from the W. tower.
No trace now remains of the court between the pylon and the
vestibule. The facade of the Vestibule, or Pronaos, has two columns
with floral capitals, connected with the side -walls by means of
screens. On the walls are representations of the king before the gods
of Dakkeh. On the E. wall the Pharaoh proffers to the god Thout
a palette, which is borne by Isis and Nephthys and is, perhaps,
symbolical of Osiris, lleliefs of an Ethiopian king occur on the
rear wall (at the top, to the left). The pronaos was at a later date
used as a church, and the whole of the walls and the ceiling were
painted over with sacred subjects, traces of which are still visible.
— The doorway in the rear Avail was originally the main entrance
to the earlier temple. On the jambs are a number of reliefs: to the
left, Philopator before Re, Khnum, and Isis; to the right, Philo-
pator before Amou-Re, Harendotes, and Isis. Within the portal an
emperor offers the figure of Maat to the god Thout of Pnubs and to
the lion-headed Tefnut.
We next enter the Teansversb Chamber (restored). A staircase,
on the right, led hence to the roof of the temple in the imperial
period; at the top is a crypt in the thickness of the wall. — The
following Chamber was built by Krgamenes. Of its reliefs only one
is interesting (on the right wall) : Ergamenes making a libation of
wine to a god described as 'Pharaoh of Senmet' (Biggeh) and to the
goddess Anuket. — A small door (of later construction) in the E.
wall admits to Two Chambers. On the back-wall of the second
are two lions sitting face to face; above them is a baboon (Thout)
worshipping the goddess Tefnut (in the form of a lioness); higher
up are two ibises.
The Sanctuary, containing the granite shrine, is embellished
with reliefs by an unidentified emperor, who appears in them be-
fore various deities. An interesting relief represents the Nile gods
approaching the sacred fig-tree, beneath which sits Thout in the form
of a baboon. In the rear wall are a door (of later construction) and
two windows (surmounted by the winged sun-disk). On the out-
side of this wall was a large door-shaped recess, containing a relief
of Thout of Pnubs.
On the E. bank, nearly opposite Dakkeh, lies the commune of
Ailaki (Allatji). A little to iUe N. of the stoainboat station is the
to Korosko. MAHARKAKA. 1^5. RouU. 397
village of KubUn, the ancient Beki, with the ruins of a Fortress of
the Middle Empire, commanding the road to the undermentioned
gold mines. The fortress was enclosed by a lofty wall of sun-dried
bricks, mats, and wooden logs, and was defended by a ditch. Within
the S.E. angle of the wall lay a small temple. — Adjacent are two
almost completely demolished Temples, one to the S., the other to
the N. of the village. Near the former is a rock-hewn Cistern, to the
E. of which, in the desert, are several tombs of the Middle Empire.
From Kulian a routi; leads through the extensive Wadi Ali.aki to
(40 M. ; a camel-ride ut" l'/2 day) the Gold Mines of Umm GarayCU {'WAdi
KJiateanib), situated in 'i2' W N. lat. and 33° 18' E. long. These wore worked
until the middle ages, and granite mortars and mills and other apparatus
used in the search for gold are still to be se^n. The mine.s are now being
worked again by an Kiiglish company. In the same neighbourhood are
trace.' of various other ancient mines.
At (38 M.) Kurleh (Qurta), on the W. bank, are the ruins of a
small temple, dedicated to Isis, on the site of an earlier shrine of
the New Empire. — In the river lies the large and well-cultivated
island of ZerCir (Zarar), known also as Gezlrel Kurleh. On the W.
bank, about I1/4 M. farther on, and to the S. of the hamlets of
Ofediimeh (0/fedunia) and Birieh, lies the small Temple of Mahar-
Tsika. ( Maharraqa), also called the Temple of Of edumeh. This marks
the site of the ancient town of Hierasykaminos, the 'town of the
sacred sycamore', which lay on the extreme boundary of the Egyptian
kingdom under the Ptolemies and the Romans. The unfinished
temple (restored) dates from the Roman period and was dedicated
to Serapis. It includes a rectangular court, surrounded on three
sides by covered colonnades. The entrance is on the E. side. The
columns on the S. side are connected by stone screens, and through
the central one of these a door leads to the rest of the temple. The
spiral staircase of masonry, which leads to the roof of the colonnade
from the N.E. corner of the court, is an unusual feature.
■44 M. Mahiirraka (Maharraqa), on both banks. On a flat-topped
hill on the W. bank, about i'/4 M. to the S. of the temple, stands
the Byzantine Fortress of Mehendi. This is surrounded by a thick
wall strengthened with towers, except on the side next the river,
where the steepness of the hill was considered protection enough.
From the main entrance, on tlie S. side, a street leads to a church
and thence to an open space. The houses, built of brick and stone,
have vaulted roofs and are in good preservation.
50 M. Sayaleh (Seyahi), on both banks; the steamboat station is
on the E. bank. — a() M. Medlk (Madiq, Madiak) is a steamboat
station on the W. bank. The mountains, especially on the E., become
higher. The river makes a wide bend to the W.
The (68 M.) Wddi el-'Arab, on both banks, is inhabited by an
Arabic-speaking population. The rise of the water-level occasioned
by the closing of the Assuan Dam .is originally constructed was
Perceptible up to this point.
398 Route 'JS. ES-SEBfr'A.
The village of Es-Sebti'a ('the lions'), also called Sihoo, consists
of two parts, one on each bank of the Nile. The steamboat touclies
at the K. bank. On tlie W. bank, amid the tawny desert-sand, lies
the Temple of Es-Sedij'a, called by the Egyptians Per-Amun ('House
of Amon'). This temple was dedicated to Amon and Re-Harakhte
by Ramses 11., and is constructed on the same plan as the temple at
Gerf-Ilusein (p. 394). Ramses himself also was worshipped here as
a god. An avenue of Statues of Rnmse.^ II. and Sphinxes leads from
a ruined brick pylon to the temple. The modern name of the place
is derived from these sphinxes. The entrance to the temple is
formed by a well-preserved stone Pylon \Jj2 ft. high, 42 ft. broad),
in front of which stood several colossal statues of Ramses II. (one
of whii h is still erect). The sadly weatherworn reliefs on the front
of the pylon-towers represent the king smiting his foes, in presence
of Re-Harakhte and Amon -Re). The reliefs embellishing the
jambs of the central doorway show the king sacrificing to various
deities. The large Court, which we now enter, is 65 ft. square. To
the right and left are colonnades, each with 5 pillars, against which
stand colossal figures of the king. The reliefs on the walls, repre-
senting the king in the usual scenes of intercourse with the gods, are
poorly executed and ofl'er no special interest. The stone basins for
the ceremony of purification should be observed.
The following Grkat Hall begins the rock-hewn portion of tlie temple.
The ceiling of this is supported by 12 pillars, of which six are adjoined
hy colossal figures of Ramses. The following Transverse Room is atljoineil
by two side-rhambers and three other chambers in the back-wall. On its
walls we see Ramses II. worshipping and presenting offerings to various
deities, among whom the deified king himself appears. The central cham-
ber behind is here, as at Gerf-Husein, the .Sanctuakt. On the right
wall the king oflfers flowers before the sacred boat of Harakhte, which
is decorated with falcons' heads. On the left wall he oflers sacrifices
before the boat of Amon, which is adorned with rams' heads. On the
rear wall appears the bout of the sun, in which the ram-headed sun-god
Re-Harakhte sits beneath a canopy, worshipped by the king (on the left)
and three apes (on the right). Beneath is a recess, in which the outlines
of statues of the three gods of the temple (Amon, Ramses II., and Ee-
llarakhte) may still be made out, although a figure of St. Peter, with a
halo and a large key, has been painted over that in tlie centre; for this
temple, like many others, was at one time used as a Christian church.
The king appears on the right and left of the recess, with flowers. — To
the S. of the temple wa'- a Slaughtek Couiit, with loop- shaped stones
to which the sacrificial animals were fastened. — Within the brick girdle-
wall lay another small brick temple (to the S.) and a chamber with round
store-rooms.
76 M. Shdturmeh (Shatorma), a considerable village, situated
among palms on the E. bank. The Nile now bends to the S., and
the mountains approach close to the E. bank, their steep slopes
lending a peculiar charm to the scenery.
81 1/2 M. Senkdri - DakUamyeh (^Ei- Singari- El- Bakhlania ; E.
bank) and Mdlki (W. bank), a steamboat station.
87 M. Korosko (E. bank), a steamboat station with a post and
telegraph office, is situated in a plain, bounded by a semicircle of
'AMADA. 'JO. Route. 399
mountains, and it is the starting-point of the great caravau-route to
Abu JIamed (p. 419; 8-10 days' journey). This road strikes direct
across the desert , the chief resort of the 'Ababdeh ami Bisharin.
Beduins, avoiding the three upper cataracts and cutting off the
windings of the Nile. During the Mahdist insurrection Korosko was
of considerable strategical iniportaiice and was held by a strong
garrison; now, however, the forts and barracks are deserted and
many houses are in ruins. In the valley behind the town is a
British cemetery with the graves of British soldiers. — The tra-
veller may ascend (^,4-1 hr.; steep and stony) the hill of .4u-fl>s
el-Guardni, close to Koroi^ko. The view extends over the Nile valley
as far as Derr.
29. From Korosko to Abu Simbel.
56 M. Bi Steamboat (comp. pp. 3S3, 384). — Comp. the Map, p. 3S7.
The E. bank of the Nile between Korosko (p. 398) and Armenna
(p. 403) is the most fertile portion of Nubia. The belt of cultivable
laud along the river is cnmparatively broad; and it is irrigated by
li.eans of water-wheels (sakiyeh) of curious construction, worked by
oxen. — Beyond Korosko the Nile valley trends to the N., so that
the N. wind which prevails in winter frequently retards the sailing-
boats. On the E. bank is (3 M. ) Abu haridnl (steamboat station").
On the W. bank lies the district of Areika (EL-Riqa), in which, near
Kl-Gezlreh, is a ruined fortress of the time of Thutmosis III. About
3 .M. farther N. (upstream), on the top of the plateau in the midst
of the yellow desert-sand on the \V. bank, not far from the landing-
place, lies (91/2 M.) the —
Temple of 'Amada, which dates from the ISth Dyn. and was
dedicated to Re-Harakhte, the sun-god. It was erected under
Thutmosis III. and Amenophis II. and was extended under Thut-
mosis IV. The figures of Amon, which were defaced by Amen-
ophis IV., were restored by Sethos I. In Christian times the temple
was used as a church and the reliefs were covered with whitewash,
which has had the effect of preserving the original colouring, as we
see now that the whitewash has peeled off.
We enter by a stone Portal, which was originally flanked by
]>ylon towers of brick. On the right side of the doorway appears
Thutmosis III., to the left Amenophis II., in the presence of Kc-
Ifarakhte. On the inside of tlie doorway, to the left, is an inscription
referring to a campaign of .\nienephthes (p. ciii) against the Ethi-
opians; farther on appears the praying figure of Setaw, who was
governor of Ethiopia under Itamses II. — Beyond the pylon e\.tended
originally a court enclosed by brick walls, while at the back stood a
colonnade with four proto-Doric (p. clvii) columns. This court was
afterwards converted by Thutmosis IV. into a covered llYrosTVi.E
Uall (still in good preservation ) by the addition of 12 pillars and
400 lioule^'J. DKRR. From Korosko
stone side-walls. The reliefs on the pillars and walls show Thut-
mosis IV. in intercourse with the gods; and the inscriptions on
the architraves also date from that king. The columns are em-
bellished with perpendicular bands of inscriptions, containing dedi-
cations by Thutmosis III. or Amenophis II., who are represented also
on the rear wall before the gods. — The following Tkansverse
Chamber is 241/? ft. broad and G'/.j ft. deep. On the right half
of the Entrance Wall is Thutmosis III. embraced by Isis, and then
Amenophis II. sacrificing to Amon-Re. On the left half Thout
and Horns of Edfu pour the consecrating water, symbolized by the
hieroglyphs for 'life', over Amenophis II. — Three doors in the
back-wall of this room lead into other apartments. The central
one gives access to the Sanctuary, on the back-wall of which is a
Stele of great historical importance. A't the top is a relief of the
sacred ]>oat of the sun with the gods Re,-Harakhte and Amon, to
whom Amenophis II. is making a libation of wine; beneath is an
inscription of 20 lines, from the ^ird year of the king's reign, re-
cording the completion of the temple and his campaign in Syria.
Among other details Amenophis records that he captured seven
Syrian princes and hanged six of them on the walls of Thebes and
the seventh at Napata (p. 419). — Doors (of later construction) to
the right and left of the sanctuary each admit into two Chambers,
also accessible from the above-mentioned transverse chamber. The
reliefs in the first room to the right represent the ceremonies at the
foundation of a temple.
Between tbe temple anil the river are the foundations of a .<ima]l Cliapel.
The Nile here describes a curve from E. to W., on tlie E. bank
of which are (IH M.) Diwun and —
Derr(D(rr,- steamboat station), the handsomest village in Nubia
and a di-strict- capital (with over 3000 inhab.), prettily situated
beneath sycamores and date-palms. On the river-bank is the govern-
ment building. A little inland is the large brick residence of the
Kashif, who was formerly independent ruler of Nubia; in the court
is the mosque. Beyond this is a cemetery containing a tasteful
sheikh's tomb. Most of the tombs here are surrounded by low
mud-walls and strewn with pebbles ; at the head of each is placed
a large dish for water and frequently a censer also. Close by, at
the foot of the hills, lies the small —
Rock Temple of Den- (known as the ^Temple of Ramses in the
House of lie), built by Ramses II. and dedicated to the sun-god
Re-Harakhte. The temple lies N. and S. The Pylon and Court having
disappeared, we first enter the much ruined Hypostyle Hall, the
sides of which were partly formed by the smoothed rocks of the hill.
The roof was supported by twelve square pillars in three rows. The
pillars in the back rows, against which rose colossal statues of
Kamses II., still stand to a considerable height. Only the lower por-
tion of the walls, the reliefs on which were of historical importance,
to Abu Simbel. DKRR. 29. Route. 401
is now standing. On the left (E.) half of the I'/ntrance Wall are traces
of warlike sneiK's witJi chariots ami warriors. On the Right ( W.) Wall
are scenes from the Nubi;m c.impaign of the king. Tn the upper row
(mnch damaged) we see Ramses II. in his chariot, accoinpinicd by hi.^
lion, conducting a group of captives before the god ; adjacent the
king sacrifices to Amon-Re. The lowest row shows the king in his
chariot launching arrows against his fleeing foes. AVe see the fugi-
tives conveying their wounded to the mountains, where a herdsman's
family, surrounded by their cattle, wait in grief and anxiety. To the
left are Egyptian soldiers with negro captives. On the Left (E.)
Wall also are remains of several reliefs (from left to right): 1. Cap-
tives led before the king; 2. The king in battle; ?>. The king fighting
on foot; 4. The king leads two rows of captives before I'e-Harakhte,
in whose temple they are to be slaves. Above, the king appears be-
fore Atum. ih.ar (S.) Wall: To the left of the door appears the
king grasping a group of enemies by the hair and smiting them with
his club, while the king's lion seizes a foe by the leg, and the falcon-
headed Re-Harakhte hands the king the sickle-shaped sword; to
the right the king presents an image of M;iat to the ram-headed
Khnum. At the foot of the wall are princes with their fans. To the
right of the door is the king smiting his enemies in presence of
Amon-Re ; to the left, above, the king makes a libation of wine to
Ptah and anotlier god, below, he burns incense before Thout. At
the foot of the wall are princesses with their sistra.
The following Hali,, which is almost square, is entirely hewn
oiit of the rock. The roof rests upon six pillars, on which are reliefs
of the king before various deities. One scene on the W. Wall shows
Ramses burning incense before the sacred boat of Re-Harakhte,
which is adorned with falcons heads and carried by priests. On
the E. Wall is a similar scene, in which the king offers flowers to the
sacred boat. — Adjoining this hall are three chapels, the central
one being the Sanctuary, in which the sacred boats were kept, as
is depicted on the side-walls. On the rear wall are four seated
figures (in poor preservation) of the gods worshipped in the temple,
viz. (from left to right) Ptah, Amon-Re, the king, and Re-Harakhte.
— In the Christian period this temple also was used as a church.
On the hill-slope to the, E. of the temple are a ruined Egyptian rock-
tomb, a rocky memorial niche dedicated to Amenemheb in the reign of
Ramses II., inscriptions of the Middle and New Empires, and very ancient
graffiti of ships, giraffes, etc. At the entrance of the valley through which
leads the road to the well of Murhad is a small and ancient recess, in
which a Bre is now maintained in honour of Sheikh Issu, who is burie.d
beneath. — To the W. of the temple are nine shallow rock-recesses, some
Coptic graves, and an ancient cistern.
Beyond Derr the Nile valley again turns to the S.W. The W.
bank becomes more fertile, and nnmerous water-wheels enliven
the water's edge. The landscape takes on quite a new character.
On the W. bank lies Toovi" f 7'u;;i«s), to which the .idjacont largo
402 Route 29. KASR IBRIM. From Korosko
and well-cultivated island belongs. Behind the village are rock-in-
scriptions of the Ancient Empire. The hills on the E. bank approach
closer to the stream. — 15 M. Tenkdleh (Tunqala; E. bank) and
'Afyeh (Afia; W. bank). — 20 M. Katteh {Qatta; E. bank). On the
W. bank lies the ruined castle of Karanog, a lofty brick edifice on
a substructure of sandstone; it is of early Nubian origin and may
date from the 3rd or 4th cent. A. D. To the S. of it are the ruins
of an ancient town.
23'/2 M. Kabd, a village on the E. bank, off whicli lies a large
island known as Gezhe.t Ibrhn or Geziret Aiu Rds. Farther on is the
prosperous village of Ibrim (Jbreein), with fine groves of palms and
two mosques. In the N. part of the village, near a cemetery with a
picturesque sheikh's tomb, are the rock-grottoes of Ellesiyeh ( J?i-
Leisla). The largest of these dates from the reign of Thutmosis III.
Beside the entrance and on the rocks farther on are numerous
Memorial Inscriptions ; on each side of the entrance are inscriptions
of Thutmosis III. Ibrim is a steamboat station.
Opposite Ibrim, on the W. bank, lies the village of 'Anibeh
(Aneiha), prettily situated amidst verdant surroundings and shaded
by palms. It occupies the site of the ancient Mem, the capital of
Nubia and residence of the Egyptian viceroy under the New Em-
pire. About 1' 2 ^^' from the river, in a solitary rock, is the Tomb
of Fennel, an official under Kamses VI. (20th Dyn.), now in a very
dilapidated condition. The entrance is on the S.I'l side and was
originally approached by a still traceable rough causeway.
Midway between Pennet's tomb and the river lies an extensive
cemetery of the New Empire, with the remains of pyrauddal and
other Brick Tombs.
The E. bank of the river is now approached by lofty and pre-
cipitous rocks. Upon one of these stands the extremely picturesque
ruined fort of *Kasr Ibrim (Qasr Ibrim), dating from Roman times.
A visit to it is interesting.
Kasr Ibrim is identified with the Roman Primis, which was one of the
most important strategic points in Nubia. At the beginning of the 16th cent.
the sultan Selim (p. cxix) placed a garrison of Bosnians here. Their de-
scendants were defeated in 1812 by the tieeing Jllamelukes I p. cxxi), but
in the same year Ibrahim Pasha (p. cxxi) re-captured and destroyed the
fortress.
An easy path ascends on the N. to the only Gate of the fortress,
which lies on the N. side. This is embellished with the Egyptian
concave cornice and the sun-disk. The GirdleWall of rough stones
is supported on the S. side by an older substructure of carefully
hewn blocks. The interior of the fortress is occupied by a confused
group of houses of the Turkish period, built of rough stones, but
incorporating fragments of older buildings, such as portions of col-
umns used for thresholds. Two of the larger buildings are still in
good preservation, viz. a Byzantine Church in the middle and a
Temple in the Egyptian style in the N.W. corner. The church
to Aim SimhH. KASR IF.R'M. 29. Route. 403
stands on the site of an older Coptic church ; it was aftersvards used
as a mosque, but a dedicatory cross is still to be seen on one of the
columns. The temple has no inscriptions. Steep flights of steps, cut
in the rock, descended on the W. side to the river. The view from
the castle-hill is very tine; to the E. rise the hills of the .-Vrabiaii
desert (one eminence crowned by the tomb of a sheikh), while the
Nile flows far below; to the S. are the rocks near Abu Simbel ; to
the W. lies the tawny desert with its pyramidal hills, contrasting
with the verdant cultivated land and the grey houses of 'Anibeh.
Close to the S. slope of the castle-hill lie the ruins of a small To>c7i,
surrouniled by a wall. Farther up the valley is a large Cemetery., with
simple Christian graves and some brick tombs on a more ambitious scale.
There is a similar cemetery in the valley to the N. of the castle.
In the steep "NV. slope of the castle-hill are several large Memorial
Recesses, dating from the New Empire. These now lie at some
heiglit abo\e the river-bank and some are very difficult of access, but
originally they were reached by means of steps from a path skirting
the rivei at a higher level than the present path. The first (on the S.)
was constructed in the reign of Thutmosis HI. by Nehi, governor
of Ethiopia. The second was constructed in the reign of Ramses II.
by Setaw, governor of Ethiopia, who is represented in it with his
officials. 1"he third recess dates from the joint reign of Thut-
mosis III. and Hatshepsut, but the name of the latter is every-
where defaced. Both rulers, eaili beside a deity, are represented
on the rear wall. The fourth recess, the most important, belongs
to the reign of Amenophis II. On the right side-wall the king re-
ceives tribute of all kin^is (includins panthers) from two officials.
On the left wall the king appears conducted by Ilorus, lord of Buhen
(Wadi Haifa), before a row of gods. In a niche in the back -wall
is the statue of the king, embraced by Horus of Mem (Anibeh),
on the right, and by the goddess Satet, on the left. The walls are
further adorned with Meroitic paintings. The fifth recess has no
sculptures.
On a steep cliff facing the river, to the S. of Kasr Ibrim, are a
Relief and Inscription ofSethos 7., commemorating a victory. Beside
it are very early graffiti of elephants, giraffes, etc.
The mountains on the K. bank presently retire, leaving room
for a strip of cultivated land. Numerous sakiyehs or water-wheels
are seen. — 30 M. (ieneineh (El-Geneina; E. bank); 33 Y2 M.
Shibbak (^El-Shehbok ; E. bank), opposite which is Mapnas. — 36 M.
I'o-ihkeli {Ihski; steamboat station), on both banks. On the W.
bank here, 7 M. from the river, a large force of dervishes was
defeated, with the loss of their cannon, by the British on Aug.
Bni, 1889; several thousand slain were left on the battlefield. —
45'/2 M. Armenna (E. bank). The desert approaches close to the
river, and the banks often rise steeply from the water. The large
ruined building on the W. bank was, perhaps, a storehouse dating
404 Route 30. ABU SIMBEL. Great
Iroin the time of Moliamined Ali. — 54 M. Farrlk (^Forriq; E. bank),
a commune including the villages of Furkundi and Demld. The hills
on both banks become higher. At the point where they touch the
river on the W. bank lie the great rock-temples and colossi of —
56 M. Abu Simbei (steamboat station).
30. The Rock Temples of Abu Simbei.
The two rock temples oi AOu Simbei, known also as Abousamlul
ur Ipsambul, built by Ram.ses II., are among the most stupendous
monuments of ancient Egyptian architecture and challenge com-
parison with the gigantic edifices situated in Egypt proper. Tickets
of admission (p. 200) should not be forgotten. This temple produces
a very grand etfect by moonlight or at .sunrise.
The **Great Temple of Abu Simbei is entirely excavated out of
the solid rock. It was dedicated in the first place to Amon-Re of
Thebes and Re-Harakhte of Ileliopolis, the leading deities of Egypt
proper, but Ptah of Memphis and the deified Ramses himself were
likewise worshipped here. Its longer axis runs almost due E. and
W., so that at sunrise the sun's rays penetrate to the innermost sanc-
tuary. Burclchardt, in 1812, was the first modern traveller to ex-
amine this temple. In 1909 Barsunli discovered the N. chapel in
the forecourt, freed the N. colossus from the rubbish concealing it,
and built a wall to protect the temple from the sand.
From the landing-place the temple is reached in 10 min. across
fields. We ascend a modern stairrase to the —
Forecourt in front of the temple, which is hewn out of the rock
and is enclosed on the N. and >S. by ancient brick walls that have
been repaired in places. Adjoining this on the W. is a Terrace (PI. A ),
reached by a flight of steps with an inclined plane in the middle,
and at the back of the terrace rises the facade of the temple. To the
right and left, in front of the inclined plane, are inscriptions in
honour of Ramses II. ; that to the right (N.) represents the king burn-
ing incense before Amon, Re-IIarakhte, and Tbout and presenting
them with flowers. The terrace is embellished in front with rows of
captives and a concave cornice, and is bounded by a balustrade, bear-
ing the dedicatory inscription (comp. above ). Behind the balustrade
stand figures of falcons and small statues of the king. Here our atten-
tion is attracted by the four '"Colossi ofEamses II. (PI. fl, 6, c, d), hewn
out of the cliff against which their backs are pLued. and arranged
in pairs on each side of the entrance to the temple. Each of these
figures is over 65 ft. in height, i.e. larger than the Colossi of Memnon
(p. 330j, but the workmanship is good and the proportions just,
while their size is in admirable keeping with the scale of the facade
of the temple and the surrounding cliffs. The mild countenance
Temple.
ABU SIMREL.
30. Route.
405
and characteristic nose of Ramses II. are best preserved in the flr.^t
colossus on the S. (PI. a). The second colossus has unfortunately
been deprived of its head and shoulders, which now lie on the ground
before it. The upper part of the third colossus was patched up under
Sethos II., who added the support under the right arm.
Upon his head the king wears the double crown; his liands rest upon
his knees; and fruni bis neck hang.'* a ring bearing the prienomen uf
Ramses II., wliich i.s c^irved also upun the upper arms and between the leg.s.
To the right and left of eacli coloss\is and between their legs are smaller
ligures of other members of the royal family. To the left of the lirst
colossus (PI. a) is Princess Xebt-tewe, to the right, Kent-Anat, between the
legs an unidentified princess. To the left of the second colossus (PI. 6)
is Tue, the mother of Ramses II., to the right is his wife Nefret-ere, and
between his legs, Prince .Vmen-her-khopshef. On each of the thrones of
colossi b and c, on the
sides next the entrance,
arc two Nile -gods,
wreathing the floral em-
blems (papyrus and lily)
uf Lower and Upper
Egypt round the hiero-
glyphic symbol for 'to
unite' (comp. p. xcviii),
while below is a row of
fettered prisoners, those
on the left being negroes,
those on the right
.Syrians.
Upon the two S. co-
lossi are a number of
Greek, Carian, and Ph<i--
nician inscriptions, of
considerable philological
and historical interest.
These were carved by
mercenaries, who had
penetrated thus far in the
course of military ex-
peditions. The most re-
markable is a Greek in-
scription on the left leg
of the injured colossus
(PI. b), written by Greek
mercenaries sent by
Psammetichos II. from
Elephantine to Nubia.
They had advanced to
the second cataract and
wrote this inscription
on their way back. The
English translation runs
as follows : —
'When King Psam-
metichos came to Ele-
phantine.they wrote this,
who came with Psam-
metichos, son of Theocles, and proceeded via Kerkis'aSj far as the river
allowed of it. Potasimto led the foreigners, Amasis the Egyptians. Archon,
sou of .\moibichos, and Pelekos, son ofUdamos, wrote this.' — Kerkis is
probably the modern Gir.sheh.
On the smoothed S. wall of the forecourt is a Stele (PI. e) of
406 Route 30. ABU SIMBEL. Oreat
the 34th year of the reign of Ramses II., commemorating the mar-
riage of the Pharaoh with the daughter of the King of the Hittites,
who was brought to Egypt by her father. At the top the king appears
seated between two gods beneath a canopy, while the prinre of the
Hittites and his daughter worship him. — The space between the
southernmost colossus and the face of the cliff has been converted
into a small open Court (PI. f) by the erection of a doorway. On the
W. wall of the lourt is a long poetic inscription placed here by
Ramses II. — In the space between the northernmost colossus
(PI. d) and the face of the cliff, on the \V. wall, is a large memorial
inscription, also erected by Ramses II., and representing him in
tlie presence of Re-Harakhte.
In Court / is the tomb of Major Tidswel!, a British officer who died
in 1884, during the Nile Expedition.
The terrace is adjoined on the N. by an Open Court dedicated
by Ramses II. to the worship of the sun, which was excavated in
1909. The walls surrounding it rise on the E. side to form a sort of
pylon. To the left of the entrance is a memorial inscription of
Ramses II., on which he is represented burning in'sense to the gods
Amon-Re, Mut, Re- Ilarakhte, Seth, and the Asiatic Astarte. In
the court are two pedestals with concave cornices. On the one on
the S., to wldch steps ascend, stood four cynocephali; the one on
the N. bore a chapel containing the images of a scarabaius (the sun-
god Khepre) and of a cynocephalus { the moon-god Thout ; see p. 87).
On the N. wall of the court we see the boat of the sun, in which
Ramses is sacrificing to Re-Harakhte.
The Facade, which here represents the pylon of the ordinary
temples, is crowned by a concave cornice, above which is a row of
cyno^ephall worshipping the rising sun. Within the cornice are the
cartouches of Ramses II., surrounded by Uraeus-serpents, and inter-
rupted by figures of Amon (to the left) and Re -Ilarakhte (to the
right). Then follows the dedication -inscription of the king to
Amon-Re and Re-Harakhte. In a niche above the Entrance Door
(PL g) the prffiuomen of the king is represented by large figures
in low relief, amongst which that of the falcon-headed sun-god is
conspicuous. To the right and left the king presents an image of
Maat to this god and to his own deified name. On the lintel of the
door Ramses is shown laying the foundation-stone of the temple
before Amon and Mat, on the left, and before Re-Harakhte and
the lion-headed Wert-hekew, on the right. Within the portal a
smaller doorway was built by Ramses II.
We now enter the rock-temple, the interior of which measures
about 180 ft. from the threshold to the back of the innermost cham-
ber. The first room, the Great Hypostyle Hall (PI. B), correspond-
ing to the open court with covered colonnades in temples built in
the open air, is 54 ft. broad and 58 ft. deep. The ceiling is sup-
ported by eight square pillars, against which stand Osiris-figures of
Temple. ABU SIMBEL. 30. Route. 407
the king (30 ft. high), holding the scourge and the crook. The figures
in the N. row wear the double crown, those in the 8. row the crown
of Upper Egypt. The artistic effect of these admirably executed
statues is very fine; the best is the fourth figure in the N. row, with its
intelligent expression and well-preserved characteristic nose. The
ceiling of the central aisle is adorned with flying vultures, those of
the side-aisles with stars. Some of the reliefs on the wall, still viv-
idly coloured, are of great historical value. On the N. half of the
Entrance Wall (PI. h) the king is shown grasping a band of en-
emies by the hair and smiting them with his club, in presence of Re-
llarakhte, guardian-deity of N. Egypt, who hands the curved sword
to Ramses. Above the king hovers a vulture and behind him is his
guardian -spirit or Ka. Beneath are the king's daughters, with
sistra. The S. half of this wall (PI. i) is occupied by a correspond-
ing scene, in presence of Amon-Re, guardian - deity of S. Egypt.
Beneath are the king's sons.
South Wall (left; PI. fc). At the top are five reliefs: 1. The
king before a ram-headed god and a lion-headed goddess; 2. The
king dedicates four packages ; 3. The king ofl'ers incense to Ptah ;
4. The king kneeling under the sacred tree of Heliopolis, before
Re-Harakhte, while Thout and Seshet stand close by; 5. The king
before Amon. Beneath are three large warlike scenes (from left
to right). 1. The king in his chariot storms a Syrian fortress. The
defenders on the battlements sue for mercy, but are pierced with
his arrows. The king is followed by three of his sons. Beneath,
a herdsman flees with his herd [towards the town. 2. The king
pierces a prostrate Libyan with a lance. 3. The triumphal return
of the king from battle with the captured negroes.
The NoBTH Wall (right; PI. I) represents scenes from the king's
campaign against the Hittites, with which we have already become
acquainted] in the Ramesseum (p. 306) and at Luxor (p. 258) and
Abydos (p. 243). — In the Lower Half of the representation we see
first (left) the march of the Egyptian army, which consists of in-
fantry and charioteers; then (between the doors to Rooms F andO),
the Egyptian camp, with the shields of the soldiers arranged round
it in a kind of stockade. The bustle of the camp is represented with
great vivacity : the unharnessed horses receiving their fodder, the
resting soldiers, the camp-followers, etc. To the right is the royal
tent. The third picture shows the king on his throne, holding a
council of war with his officers. Below information is extorted
from two spies by means of blows. In the last scene (to the right)
the chariots of the Egyptians and Hittites are already engaged in
battle. — The scenes in the Upper Hai/" transport us to the midst
of the fight. To the left the king dashes in his chariot against
his enemies, who have surrounded him in their chariots. In the
centre is the fortress of Kadesh, surrounded by the Orontes. Its
defenders watch the fight from the battlements. To the extreme
BiKMiKKK's Egypt. 7th Kdil. 20
408 Route 30. ABU SIMBEL. Great Temple.
right is the king in his chariot, inspecting his officers, who count
the severed hands of the enemy and bring fettered prisoners.
Rear (W.) Wall. To the right (Pi. m) of the central door is
Ramses II. leading two rows of captured Hittites before Harakhte,
his own deified figure, and the lion-headed Wert-hekew; to the left
(PI. n) he leads two rows of negroes before Amon , the deified
Ramses, and Mut. — Between the two last (S.) pillars stands a
Stele (PI. p) dating from the 35th year of the reign of Ramses II.,
on which is a long inscription recording in florid terms that Ramses
erected large edifices for Ptah of Memphis and presented rich gifts
to him.
Adjoining this large hall are eight Chambers (PI. F-N), pro-
bably used to store the temple utensils and furniture. Round
the walls of these, which are covered with inferior reliefs, run
stone tables.
We now enter a Hall (PI. C), 36 ft. broad and 25 ft. deep and
supported by four pillars. On the S. wall the king, followed by his
wife Nefret-ere holding two sistra, appears offering incense before
the sacred boat with the shrine of Amon, which is carried by
priests ; and on the N. wall is a similar scene before the boat of Re-
Harakhte, Three doors lead from this hall into a long and narrow
Transverse Chamber (PI. D), and thence three other doors admit to
three apartments, of which the two at the sides are very small. The
central apartment is the Sanctuary (PI. E), containing a rock-hewn
support for the sacred boat, behind which are seated figures of the
four deities worshipped in the temple — Ptah, Amon -Re, the
deified Ramses, and the falcon-headed Re-Harakhte.
Immediately to the S. of the great temple is a small Rock TEMrLE,
discovered in 1874 by a party of travellers including Miss Amelia
B. Edwards, the well-known writer (d. 1892), who has described it
in her interesting 'Thousand Miles up the Nile'. This is possibly a
Birth House (comp. p. 260). The first chamber, probably built of
brick and vaulted, has disappeared. The second chamber, hewn in
the rock, is the Sanctuary, and is embellished with well-preserved
reliefs.
Entrance Wall. On each side appears the king entering the temple. —
Left Wall. The king, followed by his guardian-spirit, offers incense to the
sacred boat of Thout. — Rear Wall. To the left, the king presents his own
cartouche to Amon -Re of Kapata; to the right, he makes a libation of
wine to Re-Harakhte. — Right Wall. The king accompanied by his guar-
dian-spirit, sacrifices to the boat of Amon -Harakhte. The king's pree-
nomen is represented behind by the goddess Maat, who is equipped with
special symbols.
A Marble Tablet on the rock in front of this small temple commem-
orates the battle of Toshkeh (p. 403) in English and Arabic.
From the forecourt of the temple we pass through a stone gate-
way made by Ramses II. in the brick enclosure and proceed to the
N. by the path along the river-bank, which brings us in a few
minutes to the small —
Small TempU. ABU SIMBEL. 30. Route. 409
*Teinple of Hathor. This temple is hewn in a rock separated by
a valley from the great temple. It also was founded by Ramses II.
and was dedicated to Hathor and to the
deified Nefret-ere, consort of Ramses. The A
facade is turned more to the S. than that of .^, — ii — ^
the great temple. The quay on the river and , ''^ iSi::^ r
the approach thence to the entrance have
been washed away.
The Facade, 92 ft, long and o9 ft. high, . ^-
is hewn in imitation of a pylon with reced- .-.- — '~>
ing front, crowned by a concave cornice. The i^y nf nflj ^-flf'J'-Tylri
cornice, however, has fallen. On each side ;,,1 : :^ _:^^^"m
of fhe narrow entrance, with their backs .--:■- ^i- -.^^^.-..^^fr
against the fa<;ade, are three Colossal Statues,
33 ft. in height, representing Ramses II. and Nefret-ere. Beside
these are smaller figures of the royal children : beside the colossi of
the queen are the princesses Merit- Amun (right) and Hent-ten-e
(left) ; beside the outer colossi of the king are the princes Merl-
Atum (right) and Meri-Ri (left); and beside the colossi of the king
on the right and left of the door are the princes Amen-her-khopsltef
(right) and Ra-her-wnam/' (leii). On the receding facade are pro-
jecting parts resembling buttresses, separating the colossi, so that
each of the latter appears to be in a kind of niche. On these but-
tresses are votive inscriptions.
We now enter the Hypostyle Hall (PI. A), the roof of which
is borne by six pillars, decorated in front with sistra with the head
of Hathor, while the other sides bear representations of the king,
the queen, and various deities.
3IDBAL Reliefs. On the Entrance Wall (PI. «, V) Ramses, accompanied
by his wife, smites (left) a negro in presence of Amon-Re and (right)
a Libyan before Ee-Harakhte. — Left Wall (PI. c; from left to right):
1. Ramses before Hathor; 2. Ramses crowned by Seth and Horus ; 3. The
queen before Anukis; 4. Ramses presenting an image of Maat to Amon.
— Right Wall (PI. d; from right to left): 1. Ramses offering food to
Ptah; 2. Ramses before the ram-headed god Herishef of Heracleopolis;
3. The queen before Hathor ; 4. Ramses making a libation of wine to
Re-Harakhte. — Rear Wall. To the right, the queen before Hathor; to the
left, the queen before Mut.
Three doors lead into a Transverse Chamber (PI. B), with un-
important mural reliefs. Adjoining are two rooms, barely begun,
over the doors of which are tasteful reliefs of the Hathor cow in a
papyrus marsh, worshipped in one case by the king, in the other by
the queen. From the Transverse Chamber we enter the Sanctuary
(Pi. C). In the rear wall is a chapel-shaped recess, with its roof
supported by sistra. Within this is a high relief, representing (full
face) a figure of Hathor in the form of a cow, below the head of
which appears the king under her protection. (Tn the Right Wall
the queen offers incense to Mut and Hathor; on the Left Wall the
king offers incense and pours a libation before his own image and
26*
410 Route 37. GEBEL ADDEH. From Ahu Simbel
that of his wife. Two rooms adjoining the sanctuary were ori-
ginally planned, and spaces for doors to these have been left free in
the rear wall of the Transverse Chamber.
On the smoothed face of the rocks both to the N. of the small
temple and to the S. of the great temple, are numerous ^Memorial
Inscriptions and Niches, most of which date from the reign of Ramse.s II.
31. From Abu Simbel to Wadi Haifa.
40 M. BT Steamboat (coiiip. pp. 38.3. 384). — Comp. the Map, p. 3S7.
As we proceed to the S. from Abu Simbel we notice the village
of Balldneh (Ballana) on the W. bank. On the E. bank, bfilow
Abahuda ( Abu Oda), a village belonging to Farrik (p. 404), the hills
approach close to the stream. On one of these, the Gebel Addeh,
lies a small Rock Temple, founded in the reign of King Haremheb
and dedicated to Amon-Re and Thout of Shmun. This temple
was afterwards used as a Christian church. The ancient approach
has disappeared ; a broken flight of steps leads up to the entrance.
The First Hall contains four papyrus - columns with bud- capitals.
The architectural details have been painted over with Byzantine
ornamentation, aTid the ancient mural reliefs project from beneath
figures of Christian saints. This hall is adjoined by two side-
chambers and behind it is the sanctuary.
Among the reliefs on the walls of the Hall are the following. On the
\efthalf of the Entrance Wall, Haremheb suckled by Anukis, beside whom
stands the ram-headed Khnum; on Ihe right half of this wall is Harem-
heb before Thout. On the iV. Wall., to the left of the door, the king he-
fore the ibis-headed Thout and four forms of the falcon-headed Horus
worshipped in Nubia; to the right of the door, Haremheb acL'ompanied
by Seth and Horus. — On the S. Wall are Christian paintings of St. Epi-
niachns and other saints on horseback and Coptic inscriptions. On the
ceiling are Qgures of Christ (with raised right hand) and an Apostle
On an isolated rock to the S. of the Gebel Addeh rise the ruins
of a Mediaeval Fortress. In the valley are numerous domed brick
tombs, probably Christian, — Farther to the S. , in the face of an
isolated cliff opposite the large island of Shataui (Shetawi) , are
several Memorial Niches. One of these dates from the reign of King
Eye (18th Dyn.), who here prays to six gods. Another was con-
structed by Paser, governor of Ethiopia in the reign of King
Haremheb. On the waUs we see Paser, praying to Amon-Re and
Re, and Paser's relatives before the deceased.
On the E. bank rise numerous isolated rocks, while the moun-
tains recede far from the river. — 11 M. Kustol {Qostol; E. bank).
— 17^2 M. Adendan (E. bank; steamboat station) is the last com-
mune belonging to Egypt. In the village are the remains of a
church, and there is another ruined church farther inland.
The following villages, on both banks, were placed under the
jurisdiction of the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan in 1899 (comp. p. 415).
to Wddi Haifa. WADI HALFA. 31. Route 4l/
On the W. bank, near the river, lie the remains of a fortress Oi
a late period and some ruined houses.
Fara^ (^W. bank |. Close by is a rectangular wall of the Christian
period enclosing the remains of a castle as well as blocks of masonry
belonging to an Egyptian temple and to a church. To the S.W. is
an isolated rock with a Memorial Niche of Setaw, governor of Ethiopia
under Ramses II. ; farther to the W. are a Christian cemetery and the
remains ef two churches. To the N. of the walled enclosure, near
a modern Mohammedan cemetery, lies an early Nubian necropolis,
to the W. of which are remains of churches and Christian tombs.
Extensive excavations were made here in 1910-12 by the Oxford
Expedition under Dr. Griffith. — On the W. bank our attention is
attracted by the curious dunes extending between the villages and
the desert expanse and consisting of sand and the pointed leaves of
tamarisks. In the river lies Gezhet Faros, a large island, known as
Artikargu ('rich island') by the Nubians.
Opposite the S. end of the island, on the W. bank, lies the
village of Aksheh, with the remains of a small temple built by
Ramses II.
We next reach the scattered village of Sarreh (Sara), on both
banks of the Nile. Here, on the E. bank, are the remains of Coptic
conventual buildings and three churches, all within a wall of an
earlier period. About 1/2 M. farther S. lies a fourth church, to the
E, of which is a hill with graffiti of the Middle Empire.
Farther on , on the W. bank, are remains of Coptic buildings
and a ruined Coptic church. 29 M. Dibeireh (Debeira, Debiera), on
both banks, with fine palm groves. In the river lies the Island of
Dibeireh. Farther on we pass (331/2 M.) Ashkit ( E. bank) and Arlcm
{Arqin; W. bank), beyond which the river-banks again become flat
and barren.
40 M. Wadi Haifa (^Sudan Government Rest House, R. 20, pens,
from 40 pias., good), often called simply Haifa, is a clean little
town on the E. bank, founded by the British on the site of several
Nubian villages. It is the capital of the province of the same name
in the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. It contains a hospital, a small bazaar,
and a pretty mosque, and, including the Nubian village of Dabarosa
on the N., has 2675 inhabitants. Haifa is the starting-point of the
government railway to Khartum (p. 419). The government steamers
lie to close to the station. The military railway from Haifa to Kerma
(at the Third Cataract; p. 4201 is no longer used.
About 11/4 M. to the S. of Haifa is the British Camp or Lines
(called Geiger by the natives), the base for the campaign against
the Mahdists (p. 427; donkeys obtainable at the rest-house). It has
lost much of its military importance. Besides the partly disused
barracks and stores it contains the residence of the commandant,
large railway workshops, etc.
412 Route 31. SECOND CATARACT.
On the W. bank, opposite Wadi Haifa, a little to the N, of a large
and conspicuous sycamore-tree, lay the ancient town of Bahen, the
site of which may he reached hy boat from the town of Haifa in
1-2 hrs. (according to the wind). The remains of two temples are
still extant. The North Temple, dating from the beginning of the
12th Dyn., was built of brick, with the exception of the pillars in
the first hall and the jambs of the entrance-door, which were of
sandstone. It is much damaged and sanded up. The inscriptions
found here date from the time of Amenophis II. and Sethosl. The
South Temple, about 50 yds. distant, was exhumed in 1887 by
Col. (now Maj.-Gen. Sir Ch. H.) Smith and is now protected by a
wooden structure (adm. 10 pias.}. It is in better preservation than
the other, its sandstone walls and pillars still rising to the height
of 5-6 ft. This S. temple was built by Thutmosis III. and Hat-
shepsut and dedicated to Horns of Buhen. The cartouches and
figures of Hatshepsut have been systematically defaced or con-
verted into those of Thutmosis II. (p. cii). The temple stands from
E. to W. Close to the river -bank, where traces of a quay may be
made out, is a brick Pylon, the S. tower of which rises like a mas-
sive pillar. Behind is a large Hall, the present form of which is
due to a reconstruction, probably at the beginning of the 20th Dyn-
asty. The pillars and columns on which the roof rested bear not
only the original reliefs and inscriptions of Thutmosis III. but also
numerous hieroglyphic inscriptions added by officials of the New
Empire. There are also Greek, Carian, and Meroitic inscriptions.
On one pillar is a long and pompous inscription celebrating the
deeds of Thutmosis III. Behind this hall lies the Temple Proper,
the back of which adjoined the cliff, while on the other three sides
were colonnades with 'proto-Doric' columns. Within are a Trans-
verse Hall, communicating with the Sanctuary, and several other
chambers. The admirable mural reliefs, many of which retain their
colouring, represent the Pharaoh in presence of the gods. — Beside
the temples lie the ruins of the ancient town, and on a hill to the
AV. are graffiti of the Middle Empire. In the desert close by are
ancient graves.
^Excursion to the Second Cataract (5-9 hrs.). — The camels
or donkeys should be sent in advance to the ruined temples of Buhen,
whither the traveller proceeds by boat (see above) ; or the start may be
made from the W. bank immediately opposite Wadi Haifa. The ride
from Buhen to the rock of Abusir takes I1/4 hr. by donkey.
After leaving the ruined temples the route at first skirts the
stream, then turns inland towards the desert, and finally, gradually
ascending, returns to the stream shortly before the cataract is reached.
The Second Cataract is superior in scenic beauty to the First
Cataract at Assuan. It lies at the N. end of the gorge of the Batn
fl-Hagar ('belly of stones') , which begins at the island of Dal,
about 90 M. to the S., and through which the river descends in a
SEMNEH. 31. Route. 4 It-
series of rapids, over rocks of greywacke, greenstone, and granite,
forming numerous rocky islands in its coarse. The best point of
view is the abrupt rocky hill of Abu.ftr, on the W. bank. At the
foot of the hill, contrastina; strongly with the green of the tamarisk-
trees, lies a chaos of glistening black boulders, through which the
river forces its way in foaming cataracts, especially line at the time
of the inundation. In the distance to the N. are the white houses
and slender minaret of Wadi Haifa on the E. bank, and the great
sycamore and the pylon of the S. temple of Buhen (p. 4121 on theW.
bank; to the W., beyond the broad river, rise the mountains of the
desert; to the S. lie the rocky islets among the rapids. Numerous
modem travellers (including Champollion, p. t xxvi) have left in-
scriptions on the rock of Abusir.
From Wadi Haifa to Semneh.
371/2 M. — A visit to the naturully beautiful and historically interest-
ing N. part of the Bain el-Hagar (p. 412) requires 4 or 5 days at least.
Camels may be hired at Haifa for about 17 pias. each per day, including
the driver's wages and food. A tent and provisions are necessary.
By the W. bank to the rocky hill of Abuftr, see p. 412 and above.
Thence the route leads through the desert to (1 hr.) the village of
Matuga, on the river. In another hour we reach Mirgisseh^ a fortress
of the Middle Empire, situated on a steep rock close to the Nile.
Within the girdle-wall, which is built partly of sun-dried bricks and
partly of rubble, are the scanty ruins of a small temple erected by
Sesostris III. On the island of Dabeh, nearly opposite, are some
ancient Egyptian fortifications. — The route leads round the steep
rocks lying to the S. of Mirgisseh and returns to the river-bank
through a picturesque defile. On the opposite (E.) bank lies 'Abkeh.
In 11/2 hr. we reach the straggling commune of Gemmeiy with some
ruined Christian domed tombs, several of which contain remains
of frescoes and inscriptions.
The second day's march leads through the desert for the first
six hours. We regain the river opposite Sarras. Numerous rocky
islets interrupt the stream; on one of these, to the S., are the ruins
of an Arab castle, perched upon a rock. Alternately skirting the
river and traversing the desert for another hour, we next reach Shal-
fak, with a well-preserved fortress of the Middle Empire.
The third day's route also leads through the desert, from the
heights in which we have occasional glimpses of the river-valley.
In 2 hrs. we find ourselves opposite the rocky island of TJronarti
(Arab. Gezlret el-Melek, i.e. 'king's island'), on the N. end of whicli
are the ruins of a fortress of the Middle Empire and of a chapel built
by Thutmosis III. On the W. side of the island are considerable
rapids. In 2 hrs. more we reach Semneh, which marked the S. limit
of Egypt under the Middle Empire. On the top of the hill are massive
fortifications, with well-preserved girdle-walls. Within the latter is
414 Route 31. KUMMEH.
a temple, built by Thutmosis 111. a.nd Hatshepsut and dedicated
to the Nubian deity Tetun. The river, here flowing between granite
cliffs, forms numerous rapids. — On the E. bank, opposite Semneh,
lies the village of Kummeh, to which the traveller is ferried on a
raft. At Kummeh are a ruined fortress of the Middle Empire and a
temple of the same. date as that at Semneh. The numerous inscrip-
tions on both banks of the stream are interesting, especially those
of the end of the 12th and of the 13th Dyn. with flood-marks, from
which it would appear that the Nile used to rise about 26 ft. higher
than it does at present. The explanation probably is that in the
course of centuries the impetuous river has hollowed out its rocky
bed to the extent of 26 ft. (comp. Ball, Qu. Journ. Geol. Soc. LIX,
1903, 65-79).
UPPER NUBIA AND THE SUDAN. +
Route Page
Political Summary. Climate. Preliminary Information 415
3'2. From Wadi Haifa to Khartum 419
From Abu Hamed to Kareima. Gebel Harkal , 419. —
From Kareima to Kerma, 420.
33. From Suez to Khartum via Port Sudan 423
From Sallnm Junction to Suakin, 425.
34. Khartum and Omdurman 42(")
From Khartum to Kosti, on the White Nile, via Wad
BIcdani and Sennar, 432. — From Kosti to El-ObeVd.
From Khartum via Ed-Dueim to Kosti, 433. — From
Khartiim to Gondokoro and Rejaf, on the Bahr el-Gebel,
434. — From Khartum to Meshra' ei--Rek. From Khar-
tum to Gambela (on the Sobat), 436.
The Anglo -Egyptian S6dfi,n (pp. xlvi, oxxiv, cxxv), occupying
an area (984.520 sq. M. including Darfur) approximately equal to
that of Central Europe, extends from a line drawn at Faras (p. 411),
below Wadi Haifa, on the N., to the fifth parallel of latitude on
the S. It includes the fourteen provinces (Mudiriyeh) of Bahr
el-Ghazdl (capital, Wau), Berber (capital, Ed-Damer), Blue Nik.
(capital, WadMedani), Bongola (capital, Merowel, Haifa, Ka s^ala,
fChartum, Kordofan (capital, El-Obe'id), Nuba Mountains (capital,
Talodi), Mongolia, Red Sea (capital, Port Sudan), Scnndr (capital,
Singa), Upper Nile (capital, Kodok), and White Nile (capital, Ed-
Dueim). The population is now nearly 3,000,000. The British
and Egyptian flags fly side by side in the Sudan, and the rights of
the joint possessors are defined by a convention signed on Jan. 19th,
1899. The interest on the Sudan war-loan is guaranteed to the
IJritish Empire. The cost of the civil administratiou is borne by
the Sudan, which, until 1913, was assisted by a subvention front
the Egyptian government. Egypt bears the main cost of the army,
but the Sudan also contributes to its maintenance. Several regiments
of the Egyptian Army are stationed in the Stidan, and a detached
body of the British Army of Occupation in Egypt is quartered at
Khartum, under the command of the Sirdar. The Governor-General
(Arab. Hakim 'Am) and Sirdar of the Egyptian Army is a British
officer (since 1899, Lieut.-Gen. Sir Reginald Wingate, formerly
chief of staff to Lord Kitchener), appointed by the Khedive on the
recommendation of the British government, without whose consent
he may not be dismissed. The Mudirs (p. xlvii) of the provinces
+ Comp. the Maps at the end of the volume and at p. 432.
416 THE StiDAN.
are British officers and officials, but the Ma'murs are Egyptian offi-
cers. The revenues of the Sudan Government in its first year f 1899)
amounted to £ E 126,596, its expenditure to £ E 230,238; in
1912 the revenue and expenditure were respectively £ E 1,428,600
and £E 1.490,700, while for 19l3 the anticipated revenue is
£ E 1,631,000. The development of the railway system and the
artificial irrigation, now being actively carried out, by which cotton-
growing especially is furthered (comp. pp. 432, 433), ensure a great
economic future for the Sudan. In 1909 the net profits of the
Sudanese railways were £ E 72,039, in 1912 £E 133,753; in 1909
the value of the cotton crop was £E 63,000, in 1911 it was £E
267,000. In 1912 over 2,000.000 acres were under cultivation as
against 1,235,500 acres in 1908. The total value of exports in
1909 was £E 674,000, in 1911 £E 1,377,000, and in 1912 £E
1,373,000; the value of imports in each of these years was £E
1,360,000, £E 2,570,000, and £E 2,261,000. An ad valorem tax
of 20 per cent is levied upon the export of gum, india-rubber, and
ivory; certain articles of general consumption are taxed 10 per
cent of their value in the towns; and among the other sources of
revenue are taxes upon date-palms, boats, and irrigation wheels,
the house tax, the land sale tax etc. The considerable import trade
in cotton goods, sugar, liquors, iron goods, and machinery is in
the hands of Greek and Arab merchants (gellaba). The great bulk
of these goods comes via Port Sudan (p. 425). Beside the Egyptian
coins the Maria Theresa dollar, a reproduction of the Austrian
issue of 1780 (Arab, rtyal Abu nukta), equivalent to 8^/2 or 9 pias.,
is current in the districts adjoining the Abyssinian frontier (Sennar,
Kassala) and in Eritrea. It is not legal tender in the Sudan but is
the only coin the Abyssinians will accept. British sovereigns also
are current in the Sudan and are accepted by the government.
The Climate resembles that of Upper Egypt (p. Ixxvii), though
th« maximum of temperature is higher and the occasional variations
have a greater range. At Khartum the maximum heat is reached
twice a year, in April or May (113° Fahr.) and September (109°
Fahr.). Violent sand-storms (Arab. habUb) are frequent from May
to September, followed by deluges of rain, which are apt to cause
fever. — The best Season for a visit to the Siidan is between Nov.
and Feb. inclusive, though March also is frequently suitable.
Travel in the Sudan. Visitors to the Sudan are recommended
to make the outward journey via Assuan and Wadi Haifa and
to return by the Red Sea route (R. 33) via Port Sudan to Suez,
whence the train may be taken to Cairo; or to reverse this route.
A circular-tour ticket from Cairo to Khartum and back, in either
direction, costs £E 23, 70 pias. The direct journey from Cairo to
Khartiim by railway (steamboat between Assuan and Wadi Haifa)
takes 91-921/2 hrs. and costs £E 14, 96 pias. (incl. sleeping-.-ar
supplements). In winter circular tours are organized, taking about
THE StoAN. 417
three weeks from Cairo and visiting the chief points in Egypt and
the Sudan; return-fare £E 75, including: 1st cl. on the train and
steamboat and hotel-acommodation at Khartum. — The Sudan
Government Steamers plying from Khartum to Gondokoro and Rejaf
(see p. 434) and those making weekly six-days trips on the White
Nile (see p. 4':33) are well equipped and provide everything that is
necessary for the tourist's comfort. On most of the regular postal
services also iu tlie Sudan provisions and attendance are furnished
at a fixed daily cliarge (comp. p. 434). but on others no food, bed-
ding, or service is supplied (comp. p. 420). — Details of all the
above services are given in the official time-tables of the Sudan
Government Railways and Steamers, which may be obtained (1 pias.)
from the tourist-agents and the Sudan Agency at Cairo (p. 37).
Outside the ordinary tourist-track the traveller or sportsman is depen-
dent upon Camels, Sailiiig Boats, or privately chartered Steamers. For
camels the charge at Kbarlum is 10-12 pias. per day, in the Red Sea pro-
vince 9 pias.; saddles, iuf;s, saddle-bags, and water-skias must be supplied
by the hirer. The average load for a camel is 360 lbs. (in two packages).
Sailing boats ('gyasses' and 'nuggers"), roughly fitted up with a kind of
house-boat cabin, at a charge of £ E 1, 40 pia.i.-£ E 2 per day, and daha-
biyehs, at a charge oi £ E 3-f E 5 per day, may usually be obtained from
the Government Steamers Department or Messrs. Cook's agent at Khartiim.
Steam-tuL's to tow thes'^ in the absence of wind, cost £ E 8^sEE 12 per day.
Steamers, costing i£E 12-i£E 35 per Hay, may be chartered from the Govern-
ment Steamers Department. — Travellers who intend iniiking a journey olT
the beaten track shruld communicate beforehand with the Sudan Agent at
Cairo (p. 37). All arranaements with natives should be made with the aiil of
the i/a'm<Jr, or head of the sub district, and contracts should be concluded
in his presence. — Travelling in the Sudan is much facilitated by the Rest
iZoMsei (quarters only) maintained by the Government in numerous villages;
permission to use these must be obtained from the authorities in Khartum.
Outfit. Light clotliing, of flannel or tussore silk, with a sun-
helmet to protect the temples and neck, should be worn by day : but
a warm rug and overcoat for night-travelling and during cold winds
should not be forgotten. Stout boots for visiting ruins and riding-
breeches and gaiters for camel-excursions are convenient. Evening
dress need not be warmer than that worn at home. — Photographic
materials are best brought from home, although they are obtainable
in Khartiam. Plates are on the whole preferable to Alms, which are
apt to suffer from the climate. — Those Mho do not travel by the
tourist -trains or tourist - steamers should provide themselves mth
camp-beds and bedding, mosquito-nets, filters, cooking-apparatus,
provisions, quinine, etc. All these are to be obtained at Khartum
at fair prices. A servant who can cook is quite indispensable, and
may be obtained at "Wadi Haifa or Khartiim (wages £E 3 to £E 5
per month). The advice and assistance of Europeans acquainted with
the country should in all cases be obtained if possible.
Spoet. Excellent big-game and other shooting may be enjoyed
in the Sudan, the best months being Jan., Feb., and March, when
the long grass has disappeared. The regulations as to the impor-
tation of firearms and ammunition, game-licences, protected areas,
418 THE SUDAN.
and other details may be learned from the official Notes for Travellers
and Sportsmen in the Sudan (see below) or from the Sudan Agency
at Cairo (p. 37). The importation of rifles and ammunition of
•303 calibre is absolutely prohibited. Game -licences, valid for a
year, are of two classes. Licence A, costing £E 50, entitles the
holder to shoot any unprotected animal or bird, including elephants,
hippopotami, rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, antelopes, etc. Hold-
ers of Licence B, costing £E 5, are restricted to hippopotami,
ibexes, wild sheep, wart-hogs, and other smaller and commoner
varieties. Both licences are subject to a limitation of bag in respect
of the rarer animals and birds. For each giraffe killed an additional
fee of j£ E 20 is charged; while wild asses, zebras, ostriches, shoe-
bill cranes (balaeniceps), ground-hornbills, secretary-birds, and rhi-
noceroses in Kassala and Sennar may not be shot at all. — A tem-
porary licence (restricted as Licence B) may be obtained, for not more
than four days, at 25 pias. per day, by those who already hold gun-
licences (for a gun 50, for a revolver 25 pias.). — Hunting expeditions
are organized by Hasan Mohammed esh-Shami (Shepheard's Hotel,
Cairo), D.E. Munari (p. 38), and others; and the Sudan Government
will, if required, supply sportsmen with boats, camp-outfit, pro-
visions, native servants, shikaris, gun-bearers, etc. Sportsmen un-
acquainted with Arabic should bring with them from Cairo a drago-
man licensed to act in the Sudan.
For intercourse with the natives, which to the intelligent traveller is
one of the charms of the Sudan, a supply of articles for gifts and barter
should he brought. The Sndan Almanac (see below) contains a list of the
principal articles of barter, as prized by the various tribes.
LiTERATOBE. The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan (2 vols. ; revised edition, Lon-
don, 1906), Handbook of the .Sudan (London, 1898; Supplement, 1899),
and Report on the Nile and Country between Dongohi, etc. and Omdur-
man (Londcjn, 1898), all by Cou7il Gleichen; Dr. E. A. Wallis Budge's The
Egyptian Sudan (illus.; London, 1907; 2 vols.); Artin Pasha's England in
the Sudan (London, 1911); Crotofoofs The Island of Meroe (ArchfEological
Survey of Egypt, 19th Memoir: L .ndon, 1911); J. Ohrwalder, Ten Years'
Captivity in the Slahdi's Cimp (transl. by Sir R. Wingate; London, 1891);
Sir Rudolf Slatiii's Fire and Sword in the Sudan (London, 1896) ; Steevens's
With Kitchener to Khartum (London, 1898); John Ward's Our Sudan, its
Pyramids and Progress (London, 1905; Ts. 6rf.); J. Kelly G-ifl'en's Egyptian
Sudan (New York, 1906) ; Hon. Sidneij PeeVs Binding of the Nile and the New
Soudan (London, 1904) ; Wingate's Mahdism and the Egyptian Sudan (London,
1900); A. B. Lloyd's Uganda to Khartoum (London, 1906; 5 s.) ; Sit- C. Wilson's
From Korti to Khartum (London, 1885); Ed. FothergilVs Five Years in the
Sudan (London, 1910; 16 s.); 1). C. E. F. Comyn's Service and Sport in the
Sudan (London, 1911; 12 s. 6rf.); Ethel Stevens's My Sudan Year (London,
1912); and Amery's English- Arabic Vocabulary for the Use of Officials in
the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan (Cairo, 1905; 60 pias.). The Sudan Almanac (1«. or
5 pias.) is a useful annual publication of the Intelligence Office. The official
Notes for Travellers and Sportamen in the Sudan (Cairo, 1909; 3rd edit., with
Addenda 1912; 10 pias.) and Butler s Brief Notes for Identifying Game
Animals of the Sudan (5 pias.) are indispensable to sportsmen. All these
may be obtained in Cairo. — Maps, see p. cxc.
419
32. From Wadi Haifa to Khartixm.
581 M. SBdan Ooveknment Railway. A Train de Lnxe, with dust-proof
sleeping and dining cars, runs throughout the year twice a week (Thurs.
& Sat.) from Wadi Haifa to Khartum in 24 hrs., in connection with the
siovernment express steamers 'Sudan' and 'Britain' (p. 383; fare 1st cl.
£M 5, 85 pias., 2nd cl. £E 4, d^/2 \>i&».i meals respectively 70 and 40 pias.
per day; slet'pinu'-car supplement £K 1). From mid-Jan. to mid-March
there is an additional service both ways on Mon. (in connection with a
special steamer service to and from Assuan, see p. 383). — Detailed in-
formation may he obtained at the tourist-agencies in Cairo (p. 38) and at
the Sudan Government Railways Agency at the railway station at Assuan.
Wadi Haifa and excursions thence to the Second Cataract and
to Semneh, see pp. 411-414.
The construction of the railway to Khartiim was undertaken in
1896-97 in order to support the advance of the Anglo-Egyptian army ;
and ill spite of the enormous difficulty of laying a railway line across
the sandy and stony surface of the desert, the worii was so energeti-
cally carried on that it advanced almost a mile daily. As in the con-
struction of the Suez Canal (p. 183) the one essential point was
the provision of an adequate supply of water for the workmen and
the machinery. A series of watering- stations (I-VI) was accordingly
established, at which wells, sunk to a depth of 80 ft., tap the sub-
terranean water, which is found to flow from the S. — On the E, rises
the bare, violet-coloured chain of hills, beyond which lies (124 M.)
B7r Mur'it and behind which runs the caravan-route from Korosko
to Abu Hamed (comp. p. 399). The stony desert gradually gives
place to undulating sand-hills. As the train approaches Abu Hamed
the dark-coloured ranges of hills, which border the left bank of the
Nile, become visible in the distance. Isolated ditm-palms, fields of
barley, conical sayal-acacias, and finally a grove of palms announce
the proximity of the river.
232 M. Abu Hamed (baths at the railway station). From the
station we have a glimpse of the poor village, which takes its name
from a sheikh buried in the neighbourhood. The important position
at the bend of the river, which here turns abruptly to the S.W., was
captured from the dervishes in Aug., 1897, by General Hunter,
who had advanced from Dongola.
From Abd Hamed to Kakkima, 145 M., railway in 9^/4 hrs. (1st cl. fare
iE E 1, 2072 pias.); trains every Frid. & Sun. (returning Sat. & Thurs. in
01/2 hrs.), in connection with the trains to and from Khartum. This line
evades the difflcult naviiiation of the Fovrth Cataract and provides con-
nection with the rich province of Dongola. — On the right hank, above
the cataract, lies Kirbekan, where General Enrle fell in 1885.
About 2',2 3!. below Kareima and 2 M. from the right bank of the Nile
rises the Gebel Barkal, the 'sacred mountain' of ancient in.scripfions. This
isolated rocky hill rises abruptly from the plain to a height of 302 ft. At
its base extend the ruins of the ancient Ethiopian city iA Napaia. Under
the New Empire Napata was the southernmost town under Egyptian rule
and the chief depot of the trade with the Sudan. It attained the zenith of
its prosperity in the 9th cent. B.C., when it became the capital of an inde-
pendent Ethiopian kinjidom (p. 386). Taharka and his .successors (p. cv)
resided here and built sumptuous temples for Amon-Re and other deities.
When the royal residence was transferred about 600 B.C. to Meroe (p. 422),
420 Route 32. DONGOLA. From Wadi Haifa
farther to the S., Napata began to decline; and although it afterwards
became the seat of the court more than once and though it remained
throughout the religious centre of the kingdom, it never regained its former
prosperity. The extant rains include many pyramids, differing from those
of Egypt by their slender form, and several temples, of which those built
by Ramses II. and by Tabarka are specially noteworthy. Cailliaud ex-
plored the site in 1822 and Lepsius in 1844 and excavations are now being
made under the auspices of the University of Oxford.
Feom Karkima to Kekma via Merowe and Dongola, government steamer
twice weekly in winter in 2^/2 days (upstream about 4 days). Passengers
must cater for themselves. There is also a frequented caravan-route from
Kareima to Dongola. The first station is (6 51.) Merowe (rest-house),
capital of the province of Dongola, on the left bank of the Jiile, beside
which lies the village of Abu D6m. To the E., in the desert, is the Wddi
Ohazdl, with the ruins of a large Clirjstian convent. On the right bank,
opposite Merowe, is the now abandoned village of Merowe, with the ruins
of the government building, erected on ttie remains of a mediaeval for-
tress, which was, in its lurn, built with the stones of an ancient edifice.
Among the ruins is an altar dedicated by Piankhi, the Ethiopian king. ■ —
On the left bank, about 6 M. above Abu Dom, is the pyramid-field of
Belal, a group of at least two dozen pyramids, probably older than those
of the Gebel Barkal. They are built of soft sandstone and are much
weather-worn. Close by is the village of NOri. — Tangassi, on the left
bank, the next steamboat station, is the scene on Tues. of one of the
largest markets in the Sudan. In the neighbourhood are some ancient
pyramids; and on ttie opposite bank lies the pyramid-field of El-Kurru.
About 2/4 hr. farther on, near the village of ZHma, on the right bank, is
another group of more than thirty pyramids. — Still farther to the S.W.
in the Nile valley, on the left bank, about 30 M. from Merowe, lies Koi (i
(rest-house), which was General Wolseley's headquarters in Dec, 1884,
during his unavailing dash to relieve Gorddn (p. 422). On the same bank,
about 50 M. farther (12 hrs. by steamer from Korti), lies Debba (rest-house),
and farther downstream is Abu Ouasi, an important trading point with the
Kabbahish Beduins, and the starting-point of a caravan route to El-Obeid
(p. 433; 14-20 days' journey). On the right bank, 5 51. farther down, lies
Dongola el-'AgUia (-Old Dongola'), the former capital of the province,
which, though now deserted, is full of interest. In the middle ages it was
the capital cf a Christian Kubian empire, and it still contains a fine old
church. Beyond the steamboat stations of Khandak (rest-house) and Urhi
we reach New Dongola or El-Ordeh (rest-hou«e), a thriving town with
15,(X)0 inhab., on the left bank of the Nile. Finally, passing the island
of Argo (rest-house), the steamer arrives at Kerma (eomp. p. 411).
Beyond Abu Haraed the railway ascends the valley of the Nile
on the border line between the 'Atmur (steppe) on the E. and the
cultivable belt on the river-bank on the W. The latter is marked
by palm-trees and, lower down, by a bushy undergrowth. Between
Nov. and Jan. the verdant strip reminds one of the bank of the Nile
in Egypt. — In the settlements on the banks we now for the first
time see the typical round straw huts (tukul) of Central Africa, with
their pointed roofs and airy 'recubas' or porches.
248'/2 M. Dagash is the residence of a Ma'miir, whose spacious
white house is seen at a little distance from the village. The Eobatdb
and Sheiklyeh tribes here, together with a few sub-tribes, constitute
the great Arab group of the Monaslr. The Monasir preserve a num-
ber of ancient legends concerning the wanderings, feuds, and inter-
marriages of their ancestors, and are exceedingly prond of these
'histories of God's people'. In 1884 Col. Stewart, General Gordon's
to Khartilm. ATBARA. 32. Route. 421
chief assistant, Rousset, the French consul, and a Greek were
treacherously decoyed to the left bank and murdered by this people,
an atrocity by which Gordon's Isolation was hastened and his ulti-
mate fate sealed. — 267 M. Abu Dh; 291 M. Shereik, prettily situated
among palms near the river; 319 M. El-Karaha.
Ml M. El-'Abidtyeh(Abidia)is situated above the Fifth Cataract.
In the summer of 1898 half-a-dozen stern-wheel gun-boats and three
large screw-steamers for the Nile flotilla were put together here. A
hospital and workshops still lend the place some importance.
362 M. Berber (1048 ft; Rest House), or El-Mekheirif, was
destroyed during the Mahdist rebellion, but it was afterwards re-
built a little to the N. and is gradually recovering its importance.
The town stretches along the E. bank of the Nile for a distance of
5^2 ^' The river-banks here are exceedingly fertile, but very
scantily populated, though the government actively encourages the
settlement of peasant proprietors. Berber is noted for riding-iamels,
woven fabrics, silver-work, leathern goods (e.^. red shoes), camel-
saddles, water-skins, saddle-bags, and saddle-blankets. The Sudan
salt prepared here formerly circulated throughout all Central Africa
as an article of barter, in the form of small brown cones.
A caravan-route leads from Berber to (246 M.) Kastala, a journey of
about 10 days.
388 M. Atbara Junction (baths at the railway station), situated
to the N. of the junction of the Atbara and the Nile, is a flourishing
place with large railway-workshops. This is the point of divergence
of the Nile & Red Sea Railway, which runs to Port Sudan and
Suakin (see pp. 426, 425). To the left of the railway is a cemetery
containing graves of the British soldiers who died in the hospital
after the battle of Atbara. The railway is here carried by an iron
bridge over the river Atbara (p. Ixiv), the channel of which is dry
from April to June. — The battle of Atbara took place on April 8th,
1898. Kitchener marched from Berber to Hudi on the Atbara,
whence he attacked the Emir Mahmiid, who was strongly posted at
a place called NakhfUeh. The victory of the British opened the
way for a further advance to the Sildan.
395 M. Ed-Ddmer, the capital of the province of Berber, lies to
the S. of the junction of the Atbara and the Nile, on the right bank
of the latter. In the neighbourhood are the remains of the fortified
British camp of 1897-8.
From Ed-Damer a caravan-route leads to the S.E. to Kuz Rejab and
t6 days) Kassala (2822 ft.), to which there is a postal service.
408M. Zeidab. The scenery now assumes a savannah-like char-
acter, with a bushy undergrowth, intersected by the usually dry beds
of 'khors' or mountain -torrents. Game is abundant, including
gazelles, hytenas, hares, guinea-fowl, and bustards. — 4331/2 M.
Mutmir; 437 M. Vmm 'AIL — 440 M. KabHshlyeh, with a rest-house
close to the railway station.
/■
422 Route 32. MEROft.
About 3/4 M. to the N. of the station ofKabushiyeh the railway inter-
sects the extensive Buins of Meroe, capital of tlie Ethiopian empire (p. 419),
which have been excavated since 1909 by Prof. J. tJarstang (comp. his
annual Interim Reports in the 'Liverpool Annals of Arch(Pology\ 1910 et
seq., and 'Meroe, the City of the Ethiopians', Oxford, 19111. About V2 M.
to the E. of the railway-line is the large Temple of the 8un, mentioned by
Herodotus, which seems to have been built by King Espelut (630 B.C.).
It rises in several terraces, the lowest of which is surrounded by an arcade.
On the highest terrace is the sanctuary, with the remains of an obelisk,
the symbol of the sun-god. The iiavemont was of blue and yellow tiles.
On the exterior of the walls are interesting reliefs, commemorating the
victories of the king. Also to the E. of the railway, among ancient ceme-
teries, .stand two small Chapels, one dedicated to the Ethiopian lion god,
the other probably to a sacred cow. — To the W. of the railway are the
ruins of several houses and the large Temple of Anion, built ca. 350 B C.
The entrance to the latter, which is formed by a pylon, gives access to
several columned halls, beyond which are the sanctuaries. The axis of
the temple is about 430 ft. in length. Among the objects of interest here
are a stone throne, whence the god Amon pronounced his oracles, a place
for the sacrifice of animals, and an altar embellished with reliefs. We
cross the town-wall to the W. of the temple to the ruins of two Royal
Palaces. Near these is a hypostyle hall (opened by the custodian), the
walls of which are decorated with coloured frescoes of the king and royal
lamily in rich costumes and of captive foes. In 1912 were discovered the
ruins of a small Roman temple and, near the river, the interesting remains
of the Royal Baths, supposed to date from about the 2nd cent. B.C.; the
statues and frescoes of the latter are protected by wooden structures (opened
by the custodian). In 1913 a large portion of the Royal City to the N.E.
was laid bare, including several streets and a palace supposed to be that
of King Keteg-Aiiiun.
About 3 M. to the N.E. of Kabushiyeh and visible from the railway
ri.se the Pyramids of Meroe, on two chains of hills separated by a valley.
Like the earlier pyramids of Napata (p. 419) these Meroitic pyramids are
distinguished by their slender form. Many of them are still adjoined on
the E. by mortuary chapels decorated inside with religious reliefs in the
peculiar Egypto-Ethiopian style and with hieroglyphic inscriptions. The py-
lon-shaped portals are usually embellished, after the Egyptian fashion,
with ligures of kings grasping their foes by the hair and smiting them with
the sword. — About 3|^ M. to the W., in the plain, lies a third group,
in which, however, the mortuary chapels are in a very ruinous condition.
474 M. Shendi, one of the principal towns in the ancient
Fung empire, is an industrial centre of some importance, with
(^ottou factories, dye-houses, and iron-works. — On the left batik,
opposite Shendi, lies Metemmeh, captured by Wolseley on Jan. 21st,
1885, after the battle of Abu Klea. This was the final act in the
campaign (comp, p. 420).
The Fung tribes distinguished themselves by their warlike ability in
the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries. Their emirs wore shirts of
chain-mail and helmets with nose-pieces-, specimens of both were captured
as late as 1897. Lsma'^il, son of Mohammed Ali, was treacherously captui-ed
and burned at Shendi in 1822, though his army was rescued by the hasty
advance of the Defterdar from Kordofan.
At (497 M.) Wad Bendga are the scanty remains of several late-
Ethiopian temples.
In the fertile Wddi Awateih, about 22 M. to the S.E. of Benaga, are
the ruins of Naga (Rest House), reached in 7-8 hrs. on camels or ponies,
which must be ordered five days in advance from the ma'miir (p. xlvii) of
Shendi. Among the ruins are several ancient houses, three well-preserved
late-Ethiopian temples, a graceful Roman chapel, and also the remains of
several smaller sanctuaries and two ancient reservoirs. The Bedtiins water
GULF OF SUEZ. 33. Route. 423(
their herds at the well here. — A journey of 4 hrs. to the N.E. from this
point via the (ll'/z M.) well of Mr Bendga (Rest House) brings us fo the
(2 M. farther) well-preserved ruins of Musauwardt, in the Wddi es-Sofra,
probably at one time the residence of an Ethiopian king. Amoiig the
remains are those of a large palace, several sanctuaries, imd stables lor
cattle, etc. Thence we return via Bir Denaga to (28 M.) Shendi (p. 422).
The devastation on the river-banks and the ruins of numerous
villages recall the raid of the dervishes in 1895 against the Ethiopic-
Semitic Ja'dlin, whom, in the true spirit of Arab vendetta, they
endeavoured to exterminate, root and branch, in revenge for alleged
treacliery. Members of the Ja'alin tribe are now frequently met in
Khartum as servants, soribes, or watchmen.
526 M. Gebel Gerri lies 8Y2 M. to the E. of tlie Sixth or Shab-
iuka Cataract. On each side rise numerous conical summits. —
549 M. Geili. To the right beyond the Nile, the hills of Kerreri
(p. 431) come into sight.
579 M. Khartum North (formerly Halfdyeh), with 35,285 inhab.,
magazines, barracks, stores, etc. The railway crosses the Blue
Nile by a cantilever bridge, 710 yds. in length, with seven main
spans of 217 ft. each and a swing-section for the passage of boats.
The bridge was designed by the French engineer G. C. Imbault and
was built in 1908-10 by the Cleveland Bridge and Engineering Co.
of Darlington, England. It is used also for ordinary traffic.
581 M. Khartftm {Central Station, PI. D, 4), see p. 426.
33. From Suez to Khartum via Port Sudan.
From Sue:: Docks (p. 18S) to Poi't Sudan, steamer of the Khedivial Mail
Steamship Co. every Wed. from Jan. to May at 5 p.m. (during the rest of
the year fortnightly), arriving on Sat. at 11 a.m.; returning from Port
Sudan on Wed. at noon and reaching Suez Docks on Sat. at 10 a.m. Fares,
1st cl. *E 6, 50 pias., 2nd cl. £ E 4, 7o pias. — From Port Sudan to Kliartllin,
490 m., express train (with sleeping and dining cars) every Sat. & Thurs.
(also on Men. from mid-.Tan. to mid-March) in 27 hrs. (fares, 1st cl. £ E 5,
2 pias., sleeping-car supplement f E 1; 2nd cl. ;£ E 3, 51'/^ pias.).
Other stbameks pkom Sue', to Port Sudan. Union C'istle lAne (p. 2),
monthly (fares from London or Southampton to Suez 19J. 19s., ii.1. lis. ; to
Port Sudan 111. 6*., 16/. 16s., aud W/o surta.K; British India Steam Navi-
gation Co., every four weeks (fare-s from London as for the Union Castle
Line) ; Austrian Lloiid, oni'e a month in Jan. & Feb. (fares from Trieste
20;., 16i.; from Port Sa^id IK., 7/.; from Suez 10/., %l.); Ellerman''s City &
Hall Lines.
Suez, see p. 187. — On the left, soon after our departure, appear
the palms at the Springs of Moses (p. 189), about 1 M. from the
coast; on the right is the lightship 'Zenobia', marking the Newport
Reefs. The gulf expands, 'ant the reddish cliffs on both sides remain
in sight. About 47 nautical miles from the Newport reefs, on the
right, rises the white lighthouse (80 ft. high) on the Rd-i Za'feraneh,
whose light is visible for 14 sea-miles. Farther on, on the same
side, rises tlio pictiuesque Gebel Ghdrib (6000-8000 ft.), at the foot
of which, on the cape of the same name, is another lighthouse. —
To the left are the imposing mountains of Sinai, the most conspi-
Bakdekeh's Egypt. 7tli Edit. 27
424 Route 33. RED SEA. From Suet
cuous summits of which are the serrated pyramid of the Oebel Serbdl
(6759 ft.) and, to the S., the sugar-loaf of the Oebel TJmm Shomar
(8449 ft.). At their base stretches the barren desert of El-Ku'a^ follow-
ing the undulations of the coast-line and rising to the height of 984 ft.
In front of us lies the solitary little port of Tiir or Tor (p. 377), which
is a quarantine-station during the period of the Mecca pilgrimage. To
the N.W. of it lies a small grove of palms. Among the central moun-
tains of Sinai we obtain a brief glimpse of the bebel Musa (7519 ft.;
'Mountain of Moses'), the traditional Mount of the Covenant, and
of the Oebel KaVerin (^551 ft.) to the right of it. The Peninsula of
Sinai ends on the S. in the steep RCis Mohammed (98 ft.). — The
coast on the right is fringed by a series of rocks and islets; on the
Ashrafi Reef is an iron lighthouse (140 ft. high) with a revolving
light and on the rugged islet of Shadiran (1213 ft.) is a flash-light.
Passing through the Straits of Jubal, 4 M. wide, the steamer
enters the Red Sea. On the left we have a view up the Gulf of
'Akaba, through which the Er\thraean depression is continued to the
N. towards the Syrian depression (Dead Sea, Valley of the Jordan).
We now lose sight of the coast on both sides. Excluding the gulfs
at its N. end the Red Sea is 1060 nautical miles in length, 120 to
190 nautical miles in breadth, and has a maximum depth of 7740 ft.
The name dates from antiquity and is supposed to have some con-
nection with the tribes of the Homerites ('the red'). The sultry cli-
mate, which is rendered more oppressive by the extreme moisture of
the atmosphere due to evaporation, is notorious. In August the tem-
perature frequently rises to above 104" Fahr. in the shade, when
sunstroke is to be guarded against; but during the travelling-season
(Oct.-May) the heat is often so modified in the N. part of the sea by
the prevailing N. winds that travellers returning from the tropics
run the risk of taking cold. During this season a strong S. wind
usually blows in the S. part of the sea, rendering the outward journey
at least endurable. In any case, in winter the steamer is seldom
more than one or two days Avithin the zone of extreme heat.
There are several islands and islets in the N. part of the Red Sea.
About 80 nautical miles from Shadwan (see above) lie the Brothers,
two low coral islands, with a lighthouse (69 ft. high) whose light is
visible for 12 nautical miles ; and about 100 nautical miles farther
S. is the once dreaded I'aedalus Shoal, a submarine coral reef, now
marked by a lighthouse (59 ft. high), with a light visible for 14 nauti-
cal miles. Beyond that point the steamer's course is free of islands
for more than 650 nautical miles. At about lat. 22 we descry on
the Egyptian coast the Oebel Soterba or Oebel Ten (7280 ft.),
while on the Arabian coast (at a distance from our route) lies Jidda
or Jeddah (20,000 inhab.), the harbour for Mecca^ which lies 50 M.
inland. About 40-60,000 Mecca pilgrims land annually at Jidda,
on their way to the birthplace of the Prophet (comp. p. Ixxxviii).
As we enter the harbour of Port Sudan several lighthouses and
to Khartum. P ORT SUDAN. 33. Route. 4:2b
coral reefs are passed. To the right, at the mouth of the harbour, is
the whitewashed tomb of Sheikh Barghut ('Sheikh Flea'), which was
the only building at this place before the founding of Port Sudan.
Port Sudan. — Porterage of luggage from the steamer to the custom-
bouse (where luggage is e.xamined) and thence to the train, 1 pias. per package.
Hotel. Sudan Oovernment Railway Hotel, of the first class. — Bank.
yalional Bank of Egypt. — Anglican Church Service. Oreek Church.
Fishing. E.xcellent fishing from boats may be enjoyed in the har-
bour, the waters of which abound with the bayardo, sirroe, barracouta (up
to 40 lbs.), and other fish. Tackle should be brought from home, includ-
ing a tarpon-rod (9-10 ft. long) or a strong salmon-rod (ca. 14 ft.) and a
metal reel with not less than 200 yds. of tarpon-line.
Port Sudan, with 4650inhab., the flourishing port of the Anglo-
Egyptian Sudan and the principal outlet for its trade in gum (19,090
tons in 1912, valued at J9E 598,648) and for cotton, is the chief town
of the Red Sea province, .situated in N. lat. 19°37' and E. long. 37°14',
on a deep bay running inland in a N. direction. It was founded as the
terminu.s of the railway from the Nile to the Red Sea, constructed in
1904-5 and opened in 1906, as the dangerous harbour of Suakin
(see below) could not be adapted to the requirements of modern
shipping. The imports, excluding Government goods, amounted in
1912 to £E 631,177 and the exports to £E 900,158 as compared
to £E 418,088 and £E 342,987 respectively in 1909. The town
proper, with its clean streets and neat houses, lies on the W. bank
of the harbour, opposite the quays. Outside the town are settlements
of Sudan negroes and of Hadendoa Beduins, a nomad tribe frequent-
ing the mountains between the Nile and the Red Sea.
The interesting visit to Siiakiii (?ee below) is best made as a day-
excursion (provisions fhould be taken).
The R.\iL-WAY TO Khartum crosses the harbour by a bridge to
the station of Port Sudan Town and thence runs to the S. through
the desert-plain bordering the Red Sea. — 6 M. Anotriba. IS^/o M.
Sallom Junction.
From .'^allom .Tunctiosj to Suakin, 20'/2 M., branch-railway in 1 hr.
10 min. (fare 28 or 19'/2 pias.); local trains from Port Sudan (see above)
in 2V4 hrs. (52'/2 or 36'/'.' pias.). The only intermediate station is (15V2 M.)
Handub. — Suakin or Sudkim, more correctly called Sawdkin (no hotel
accommodation; Eastern Telegraph Office; National Bank of Egypt)., with
about 11,000 inhab., lies on a mcky island, situated at the W. end of an
inlet, about 3 M. from the coast. It was the seaport of the Sudan before
the foundation of Port Sudan (comp. above) and is still an important
harbour for the shi|iping of cotton from the Tokar district. The town with
its maze of alleys contains many tall Moorish-looking houses of white coral
stone, with carved doors and windows. From the railway station outside
the town a road, passing through two old gateways which form part of the
former fortifications, leads in 20 min. to the Oovernment House, a battle-
mented building picturesquely overhanging the water's edge. This served
as the headquarters of both Gordon and Kitchener. On the mainland,
opposite the island, are seen traces of the old railway to Berber, begun
by the British government in 1885 but soon abandoned.
Beyond Sallom Junction the line gradually ascends among the
picturesque mountains that stretcii parallel with the Red Sea from
the Abys.sinian highlands to the Gulf of Suez. 66*/2 M. Oebeit.
9.7 •
426 Route 34. KHARTl&M. Practical Notes.
75 M. Sinkat (2933 ft.), a hill-station for the officers and officials of
the Sudan Government, has two rest-houses (H. 5 pias.). — The line
reaches the crest of the ridge at (81 M.) Summit (3015 ft. ; Rest
House), the station for Erkowit (ca. 3600 ft.), a summer-resort with
a golf-course, among the mountains, about 5 hrs.' camel-ride to the E.
During the hot weather Erkowit is the headquarters of the admin-
istration of the Red Sea province, and in spring that of the governor-
general. For accommodation and camels application must he made
not less than three days in advance to the ma'mur of Erkowit, who
will also, if desired, provide tongas, or litters, at 50 pias. each person.
— The line now rapidly descends across the wide steppe that stretches
W. towards the Nile. — 118 M. Thamiam. — 181 M. Musmar. — At
(297 M.) Atbara Junction we join the main line from Wadi Haifa to
Khartum, see p. 421.
34. Khartum and Omdurman.
Arrival. The Central Railway Station (PI. D, i) is on the S. side of
Khartum; it is the starting-point for the line to Kosti and El-Obeid (p.43'2)
also. — KharlAm North Station (PI. K, 3; p. 423) i3 of no importance to touri.^ts.
Hotels (in Khartum). "Grand-Hotel Khartum (PI. a; D, 3), on the
Blue Nile, with garden and fine view, pens, from iE E 1 ; Kindel's Gordon
Hotel (Pl-b; D, 4), pens. 70-80 pias., good; Hoial Hotel (PI. c; E, 4),
with pretty garden, pens. 40-50 pias.; New Khedivial Hotel (PI. d;
D, 4), with the Restaurant d'Athenes, R. ca. 20 pias.; Hotel Victoria
(PI. e; D, 4), R. 10 pias., quite unpretending.
Post and Telegraph Offices. On the Embankment at Khartiim (PI. 5,
D 3; p. 42S); near the Large Market at Omdurman (PI. 20, Bl; p. 431).
Steam Tramways. A combination of steam- tramways and ferries,
forming a circular route, connects KharUlm with Omdurman and Khartum
North. Cars start hourly in both directions from the Sirdar Avenue in
Khartum (PI. B, 4; Khartiim Central Tramway Station; 1st class fare for the
whole circuit II/2 pias.)'. In a W. direction they run past the Gordon
Hotel and behind the Grand-Hotel (stopping-place) to (1/2 hr.) the Mogre.n
Point (PI. B,3; fares, 1st cl. 1, 2nd cl. 1/2 pia.s.), where they connect with
the steam-ferry to South Omdurman (Abu Anga, PI. B, 2; p. 430). Thence
a tramway goes on to Omdtirmdn Central (Large Market, PI. A, B, 1) and to
Abu RSf (PI. C, 1), at the N. end of Omdurman, to connect with the ferry
to Khor Sfiambat, on the right bank of the Nile. From Khor Shambat a
tramway runs past the Gordon College Farm to Khartum North and across
the Blue Nile Bridge (p. 423) to Khartum. — A Mule Tramway, connect-
ing with the last-named steam-tramway at the foot of the incline from the
bridge, runs to the village of Burri (PI. G, 3; p. 428), on the E.
Donkeys and Kickshaws (drawn by donkeys) may be obtained at the
Grand-Hotel (fixed tariff); the donkeys hired on the streets are cheaper
and also good (ca. 2 pias. per ride, 4 pias. per hr.). The charge for a
camel is 12 pias. per hr. ; for a sailing-boat 15 pias.
Banks. Branch -offices of the National Bank 0/ Egypt (PL 12; D, 4)
and the Banque d AtMnes, Sirdar Ave. (PL D, 4). — Tourist Agent. Cook's
Agent, at the Grand-Hotel (daring the season only). — Travelling Requi-
sites from H. U. Cavadias. — Forwarding Agent. Alb. Singer. — Newspapers.
Sudan Times (Mon. & Thurs.) ; Sudan Herald (Sat.). The official Sudan Gazette
(2 pias.) containing the government notices and ordinances as to shooting,
travelling, and the export of curiosities (weapons, ostrich-feathers) may
be obtained from the Civil Secretary, Khartum.
Golf Courses both at Khartum (see PL 1),'4) and at Ouidarman(Pl. A. 1).
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Situation. KHARTUM. 34. liouU. 427
Anglican Church. All Saints" Cathedral (PI. 8, E 3; p. 429); Right Rev.
LI. Otcynne, Bishop of Khartum; chaplains, Rev. H. B. Riving/on and Rev.
H. C. Robins. — Missions. Church Missionary Society; American Mission ; Austrian
Roman Catholic Mission to Central Africa (with church ; PI. 9, E 3).
A Military Band plays twice a week on the Embankment about 5 p.m.
DiSTEiBUTios OF TiME. A stav of three or four days allows sufficient
time for the principal sights and for excursions to the battlefield of
Kerreri and the ruins of Soba. — First Day. Visit to the sights of Khar-
tum and a ride to the native villages (p. 429). — Second Day. Oiudurman
(p. 430). — Third Day. Excursion to the battlefield of Kerreri (p. 431)
and second visit to Omdurman. — Fourth Day_. Trips by boat on the
White and Blue Nile or excursion to Soba (p. 432). — Those who make a
longer stay should undertake the 6 days' trip up the White Nile (pp. 433, 434),
or the very attractive excursion to Naga (p. 422) and Musauwarat (p. 423),
which requires about f(mr days, or the visit to the ruins of Meroe (p. 422).
Khartlm or Khartoum (1252 ft.), the capital of the Sudan and
the residence of the Sirdar and Governor-General, is situated in N.
lat. 15° 36' and E. long 32" 32', on the left bank of the Blue Nile,
immediately above its confluence with the White Nile (comp. p. Ixiv).
The name, meaning 'elephant's trunk', refers to the shape of the
long peninsula that ends on the N.W. in the Mogren Point (p,429).
The town was built in 1823-30 by Mohammed Ali and quickly rose
to prosperity as the southernmost depot of the trade of Egypt, so that
it is said to have had 70,000 inhab. in 1882. During the rebellion
of the Mahdi (p.cxxiv) General Gordon, who was despatched hither
by the British government to withdraw the garrisons in the Sudan,
entered the town on Feb. 18th, 1884, and defended it until Jan. 26th,
1885 (comp. p. 428). The town was reduced to ruins by the Mahdists,
but has been rebuilt since the capture of Omdurman in 1898.
Its ground-plan, designed by Lord Kitchener as a series of 'Union
Jacks', somewhat recalls that of Washington, with its broad streets
and large squares. In 1909 the town, including Omdurman and the
suburbs, contained 110.682 inhab. (Khartiim 18,235; Omdurman
42,779; Khartum North 35,285; Geili 14,383); of these 106^286
were natives of the Sudan, 1734 were Europeans, and 2662 were
Abyssinians, Egyptians, Indians, etc. Most of the houses have but
one story and are built of brick, though in the better ones free use
is made also of white Kerreri sandstone and limestone from Gebel
Auli; they are frequently surrounded by fine gardens.
The Tbees and Plants tbat occur in the private and public gardens
at Khartum nearly all belong to the Sudanese flora, with the conspicuous
exception of the date-palm. Among them the following may be specially
mentioned : the curious Sudanese Balaeniies j£gyptiaca or soap-tree (Arab,
el-heglig), the bark of which has the property of converting fatty substances
into soap; the Salvadora Persica (Arab, el-arak), by some supposed to be
the mustard-tree of the Bible; and the saccbarin'e but poisonous Callotropis
proeera (Arab, el-ushar), a large-leaved Asclepiadea. Some specimens of the
gigantic Adansonia digitata, baobab, or monkey-bread-tree (Arab, el-homr),
may be observed in the town ; the thick trunk of this tree is often hollowed
out l>y the natives and used as it stands as a cistern. There are also
several Piirkinsonias, Sesbanias, and a few coffee-plants. — Agricultuee
is carried on by the Nubian fellahin in the primitive manner of the
Dongolese, without plough or harrow, but none the less industriously.
Their sakiyeh, or water-wheels (p. Ixxii), are sometimes 25 ft. and more in
428 Route 3d. KHARTUM. Gordon CoUege.
•
height, and are worked by zebus. Wooden posts are occasionally placed
Ijeside these wheels in such a way as to form a kind of sun-dial, by which
the hours of labour are regulated. The chief crop is Andropogon, f^orghum,
the staple food of the country, but sweet potatoes (/pomoea Batatas; Arab,
bombai). Maize (recently introduced), and the Sudanese sugar-cane {Andro-
pogon Zaccharatum; Arab, el-'ankulib) are cultivated also. The last-named
ripens between February and May.
Along the bank of the Nile runs the Embankment, a promenade
ahout 3 M. in length, planted with lebbakh and other trees. The view
hence is very fine; on the opposite bank, beyond the sand-banks
in the Nile, which are covered when the river is high (in October),
lies the desert-town of Omdurman, with misty hills in the back-
ground; to the N. rise the hills of Kerreri and Surkab (p. 431);
also to the N. is the island of Tuft, with its vegetable-gardens. On
this island are a number of conical grass-huts inhabited by natives,
and an old fort which offered a desperate resistance to the der-
vishes in 1886.
Following tlie Embankment to the E. from the Orand-Hotel we
pass the Coptic Church (PI. 2), with its two towers, and a number of
attractive villas, including those of the Miidir, the Financial Secre-
tary, and the Commandant (PI. 4; D, 3). We next reach the Post
,S' Telegraph Office (PI. 5; D, 3) and the War Office (PI, 6; D, 3),
considerably enlarged in 1913, with most of the offices of the civil
administration. Adjoining the latter rises the Gothic Palace of the
Sirdar and Oovernor-Oeneral (PI. D, 3); before it stand a Britisli
sentinel (on the river side) and two Sudanese sentinels (on the jS.
side). A special permit is needed for a visit to the house or grounds.
The palace incorporates the lower story of Gordon's house, in which
he fell under the lances of the dervishes (memorial tablet in the
corridor). — Farther on are military stores and the workshops of
the Public Works Department. The gardens and villas of the British
officials, including that of Slatin-Pasha (PI. 10; E, 3), add a pictur-
esque feature to the scene, many of the houses being built in the
bungalow style. At the corner of Mohammed Ali Street is the
attractive building of the Sudan Club (PI. E, 3) , situated in a
garden. Farther on is the Military Hospital.
We then reach the Gordon Memorial College (PI. E, F, 3;
director, Mr. James Currie), for which Lord Kitchener obtained the
necessary funds by public subscription throughout the British Empire.
This is a large and substantial building in which native youths are
trained by English and Egyptian teachers for an official career. The
College contains a Higher Elementary School, a Higher School for
Technical Education (surveying and engineering), a Training Col-
lege for Schoolmasters and Cadis, and a Military Cadet School.
Associated with it are Instructional Workshops, an Economic Museum
(with interesting archaeological, ethnographical, and natural history
collections), and a Bacteriological <J' Chemical Laboratory (adm. 9-1),
the last due to the liberality of Mr. Henry S. Wellcome of London.
'Abbas Square. KHARTUM. 34. Route. 429
Beyond the railway are the British barracks and the village of
Burri (PI. G, 3), with the water-works.
We return from the Gordon Memorial College by Khedive Avenue,
which runs parallel with the Embankment. Here are the Maronile
Church (PI. 13; E, 3) and the new Cathedral Church of All Saints
(PI. 8; E, 3), consecrated in 1912, the N. transept of which is the
Gordon Memorial Chapel. In the grounds behind the Sirdar's
Palace is a Statue of Gordon (represented as riding on a camel),
a bronze copy of that executed by E. Onslow Ford in 1890 for the
Royal Engineers' Institute at Chatham. — The grounds behind
the War Office (p. 428) contain a large Late - Ethiopian Relief,
brought from a pyramid at Meroe (p. 422). It represents a king
and queen protected by the wings of Isis; to the right is a crowd
of death-gods, relatives, and priests, bearing gifts or celebrating
funeral rites. — Farther on are the National Bank of Egypt (PI. 12,
D4; left), the Survey Department (right), the office of the Stores
Section (left) and the law-courts, the Irrigation Department, and
the Mudlrtyeh (PI. 3; D, 3), or office of the mudir, all three ou
the right.
To the W. of the Grand-Hotel, on the Embankment, lies the
pretty Zoological Garden (PI. 1, C 3; open free), which contains
a representative collection of Sudanese animals. A very attractive
walk is afforded by the Promenade extending to the Mogren or
Mugran Point (comp. p. 427), the promontory between the two
arms of the Nile, the different-coloured waters of which are easily
recognizable after their junction. Along the bank are numerous
sakiyehs (comp. p. 427), for watering the fields and palm-groves.
To the left are a Nubian village, picturesquely situated among
palms, and various other settlements.
The business-part of Khartum, which is chiefly inhabited by
Greeks, is restricted to the portion of the town lying to the S. of
Khedive Avenue, and is intersected by the tramway. Its central
point is the large 'Abbas Square (PI. D, 4), with a handsome Mosque;
to the N. W. are the interesting Markets. The Bazaars are especially
animated in the afternoon.
From the Gordon Statue (see above) Victoria Avenue runs to the
S., crossing the 'Abbas Square, and brings us to the Central Rail-
way Station (PI. D, 4), which may be reached also by the streets
parallel with Victoria Avenue. Beyond the station are the Parade
Ground and Racecourse and the Fortifications constructed by Gordon.
To the right and left are barracks. To the S.E. lie the Sudanese
Villages (PI. E, 4), known to the natives as Ed-Deim or 'the Camp'.
They shelter various tribes of the Sudan (Shilluks, Dinkas, Bor-
nawis, Gebelawis, etc.), partly in mud hovels, partly in the charac-
teristic round huts. Native dances may often be witnessed here.
Communication between Khartum and Omdurman is maintained
by a steam-ferry (p. 426) from the Mogren Point (see above).
430 lioule 34. OMDURMAN. Arsenal.
The native town of Omdurm&n, which was the capital under the
new Mahdi regime, was founded in 1883-84 by the Mahdi Moham-
med Ahmed (p. 427), and after his death in 1886 it was the resi-
dence of the Khalifa 'Abdallah et-Ta'aishi for 14 years, during which
it became the scene of the most atrocious cruelties and the most
extravagant orgies. It extends for about 3V2 M. along the left bank
of the united Nile, and has room for upwards of 100,000 inhabi-
tants. The name is said to be derived from an old woman who
once spent a solitary existence here. The S. part is the Umm
ed-Durmdn proper. The central part, including the holy buildings
and the walled inner town inhabited by the Baggara (Bakkara)
tribe, to whom 'Abdallah belonged, is called by the natives Et-Bu-
k'a, i.e. 'the (holy) place', a name always given to the wandering
headquarters of the Mahdists. To the N. is the Hdret en-Nasdra
or el-Mesihin, the Christian quarter, inhabited by Abyssinians,
Copts, and Greeks.
The warlike oppression before 1899, the fanatical enthusiasm
for pilgrimages, th^ desire for plunder, and the devastation of whole
provinces have assembled here a confused medley of the most diverse
races and stocks : Bantus and grotesque dwarf negroes from the W.
Sudan ; Semitic and Hamitic tribes from the desert, such as Nuba,
Baggara, Kabbabish, Gowameh, and Kowahleh Arabs ; Nubians, Fel-
lahin, Ja'alin (p. 423). To these must now be added Egyptians,
Syrians, and a few Greeks. The shopkeepers are mostly Dongolese.
The fnshions prevalent among the natives are very curious, such as
their methods of shaving, tattooing, and perfuming themselves, and
otherwise altering their personal appearance.
The steam-ferry lands its passengers a.t Abu Anga, near the large
and picturesque Murada, or Boat Harbour, which is adjoined by
the markets for ivory, india-rubber, and grain. From this point we
may proceed into the town either by the steam-tramway (p. 426) or
(preferably) by donkey. — Following the tramway-line, we cross one
of the markets (Suk) and reach the lofty walls surrounding the Beit
el-Amdna (PI. 19; B, 2), the former arsenal of the dervishes, which
still serves as a military magazine and contains memorials of Gordon's
time and trophies of weapons. For a visit to it, which, however,
is hardly worth while, a permit must be obtained from the As-
sistant Secretary, Stores Section in Khartiim (p. 429). The Prison
(PI. B, 2), where many Europeans languished, is situated 500 yds.
farther E., at the S. angle of the ruinous town-wall. It is sometimes
known as the 'Saier Prison', from the name of the jailor under the
Mahdi and Khalifa. — Farther on, to the left, is the Komanddniyeh
or Guard House of the Sudanese, formerly the House of Emtr Yak^b
(PI. 21). On the large Mosque Square (PI. B, 2), in which the der-
vish army was reviewed, lie (1.) the Zabtiyeh or office of the ma'mur
(PI. 22) and (r.) the Mosque of the Khalifa, a large rectangular court
surrounded by a brick wall (comp. p. clxxviii).
Mahdis Tomb. OMDURMAN. 34. RouU. 481
Adjoining tlie Mosque Square on the E. lies the *Tomh of the
Mahdi (PI. 15). This was erected, at the order of the Khalifa, by
an Arab architect, and consisted of a rectangular building 85 ft.
liigh, surmounted by a lofty dome, and furnished with three arched
windows on each side. After the capture of Omdurman the tomb
was destroyed by the British and its contents scattered. — Opposite
tlie tomb, adjoining the great Mosque, is the *House of the Khalifa
'Abdalldh (PI. 16; see p. 430), a large enclosure, im-luding several
courts and colonnades, numerous chambers, and a bath-house (adm.
5 pias., including the Mahdi's Tomb). The roof of the tower com-
mands a flue view of Omdurman and its environs. Adjacent are
the House of the British Inspector (PI. 17), and the grave of the
Hon. H. G. li. Howard, an English war-correspondent who fell here.
Farther to the E. stands the Military Hospital (PI. 18), formerly the
House of Sheikh ed-Din. the son of the Khalifa. To the N., on the
site of the walled inner town of El-Buk'a (p. 430), with the quarters
of the Khalifa's bodyguard, stands the Civil Hospital (PI. B, 1).
We now skirt the N. wall of the Great Mosque, passing the
ruined House of the Klialifa Ali Woled Helu, to the Mosque Square
and then follow the broad street traversed by the tramway. To the
right is the Government School (PI. B. 1, 2) ; to the left, in an open
space, is the Cattle Market (PI. 26). The street ends at the *Large
Market (PI. A, B, 1), on which the various bazaars converge and
which presents a busy and variegated scene of African life. All the
articles of consumption of Central Africa are to be seen here in
profusion : curious spices of a hundred different varieties, drugs,
and perfumes; soda, saltpetre, salt; betel, bead-nuts, seeds, and
wood of every kind; ostrich-feathers, glass beads, toilet-butter, 'an-
garibs (bedsteads), the dried flesh of wild animals, etc. The Bazaar
of the Silversmiths (PI. 24) is especially interesting. Skilful smiths,
and saddlers dealing with hippopotamus hide, may be seen at work.
Many articles here, however, are manufactured specially for tourists.
The place of execution (PI. 23) under the Khalifa was in the Date
Market. The Suk el-Harm (formerly limited to women-dealers) is
devoted to fruit, milk, ornaments, ointments, and basket-work. —
To the E. is the Po^t ^ Telegraph Office (PI. 20).
Excursions. To the X. to (6 M.) i^e. Battlefield of Eerreri, "ii the left
bank of the Nile. This excursion is made on donkeys from Omdurman:
large p:ii'ties may hire a steamer. We first proceed to the KhSr Shambal,
and thence to the Gebel SOrkab (commonly called Gebel Surgham), which
affords the best general view of the battlefield. On the way we puss a
large marble Obelisk., erected to the memory of the officers and men of
the 21st Lancers who fell in the engagement. The monument, which has
been damaged by fanatic natives, is surrounded by a mud-wall; the keeper
(absent on Sun.) expects a gratuity. — Near the village of Kerreri and
the Gebel SOrkab, on the left hank of the Nile, Sir Herbert Kitchener, with
22,000 men, defeated, on Sept. 2nd, 1898, a dervish army of 35,000 men,
whose fanatical onslaughts were shattered by the steady fire of the Anglo-
Egyptian troops. The dervishes are estimated to have lost 10,000 killed,
16,000 wonnded, and 4000 prisoners, while of the British 25 were killed
and 99 wounded, of the Egyptians 21 killed and 230 wounded. On the
432 Route 34. SOUTHERN SUDAN.
afternoon of the same day Kitchener entered Omdurman. 'Abdallah (p. 430)
fled to the S., but on Nov. 24th, 1899, the remnants of his army were
annihilated at Umm Debreikat orDeberikat, to the S.W. of Kosti (p. 433),
and he himself was slain.
The Ruins of Sdba, on the right bank of the Blue Nile, to the S.E.
of Khartum, are most easily reached from (9 M.) the station of Soba
(left bank of the river), on the railway from Khartum to Sennar (see
below), by sailing boat or steamer in about 2 hrs. Near the landing-place
is a government Eest House. S6ba was the capital of the Christian king-
dom of Aloa, which existed until the middle ages. The extensive field
of the ruins is covered with fragments of baked bricks. The large tu-
muli rising here and there probably mark the sites of churches and public
buildings. One church, with granite columns, has been partly brought to
light. On the whole, however, there is little to see.
Longer Excursions to the Southern S&d&n.
Longer excursions to the Southern Sudan are mostly undertaken by
sportsmen. The inliospitable steppes of Kordofan swarm with game. The
expense of such excursions is necessarily great, and the equipment must
be very carefully selected. The Railway it Steamboat Routes.^ however,
mentioned below, afford an excellent opportunity for those who wish to
become acquainted with the characteristic and wonderful scenery of the
Tropics. — For Caravan Journeys the best plan is to hire camels, with
the help of competent advice, in Khartum. The rest of the equipment,
such as beds, cooking-utensils, and provisions, should be brought from
Kurope or from Cairo (comp. p. 417).
From Khartum Yii Wad Meuani and Sbnnab. to Kosti, on the
White Nile, '236 M. Railway to Wad Medani daily in 7 hrs., thence
to Kosti on Wed. and Sat. in 8 hrs. more (fai is to Kosti, £ E 2, 42,
£ E 1, 691/2 pias.). — The line skirts the left (W.) bank of the Blue
Nile. 9 M. Soba (see above); 54 M. Maleig Road is the station for
Kdmltn, the chief town of a district, with indigo plantations. —
10072 ^' Tayiba, with the large pumping-station of the govern-
ment cotton-growing experimental area. — 107 M. Wad Medani,
■with 16,000 inhab., the capital of the province of the Blue Nile,
lies near the confluence of the Rahad and the Blue Nile ; it has broad
streets liued by the round straw-covered huts of the natives (of the
Fung and Hamag tribes). On the river-bank stands the palace of
the Mudir with its beautiful tropical gardens.
During the winter season (Nov. to June) the Blue Nile is closed to
navigation but in summer (end of June to Out.) a steamer plies fortnightly
from Wad Medani via Senndr (see below), Singa, the capital of the province
of Sennar, and Barankwa {Abu Na'dma) to Roseires (1540 ft.), on the right
bank of the Blue Nile. Higher up navigation is stopped by cataracts.
166 M. SennS.r, on the left bank of the Blue Nile. A very fine
ride may be taken through the forest, in which are large numbers
of monkeys, to the ruins of Old Senndr, some miles downstream.
This town, which had ca. 20,000 inhab., was completely destroyed
by the Khalifa in 1885.
During the summer season there is a weekly steamer service from
Sennar to Barankwa (see above).
Beyond Sennar the railway turns towards the W. and traverses
the so-called Oezlreh ('island'), the region between the Blue and
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SOUTHERN Sl)DAN. 34. Route. 433
tlie White Nile, whicli promises to be oue of the finest cottou-
growiug districts. — 230 M. Hillet 'Abbas. The railway now crosses
the "White Nile by a remarkable iron bridge of seven spans (1910),
with a central swing-span, 82 yds. wide, for the passage of boats.
236 M. Kosti (steamboat station, see p. 4341, on the left bank of
the White Nile, near the S. end of the island of Abba (p. 434), was
originally named after a Greek settler. It is a rising place, being
one of the chief markets for the produce of the province of Kordofan.
It lies on the borders of the negro lands, and representatives of the
nearest tribes (Habbanias, Danaglas, Dinkas, and occasionally
Shilluks) arc seen in the market-place.
Feom Kosti to El-ObeVd, 198 M., railway in IS^/^hrs. (tr;iins on Suu.
& Tburs.): tbrough-fares from Kbartum, * E 4, 33V2 * E 3, S'/v pias.).
— Zl-ObeSd or El-Obeid (1900 ft.), the capital of the province of Kordofan
(area 131,500 sq. M.), has taken a new lea^e of life as the centre of the
gum trade. It is situated in N. lat. 13° 11' and E. long 30° 14', and extend?
over a flat hollow, at the lowest parts of whii'h are numerons springs of
good water. The population, at one time numberini; about 35,000. consists
of Arabs and Nul)ian negroes, and in the dry season, when the neighbouring:
villages have no longer any water, it now amonnts to about 12,000. With
the exception of the mosques and a few large buildings the houses arc
almost all round straw-covered huts with conical roofs. To the S. lie the
barracks and the government building. An Egyptian force under Hicks
Pasha, which attempted to take El-Olieid from the Mahdi, was completely
annihilated on Xov. 5th, 1883 (comp. p. cxxiv).
Fro.m Khartum vi.i Ed-Dueim to Kosti (Goz Abu Gum'a),
199 M., postal steamer three times monthly (fare £ E 25 in a
single, & E 15 in a double cabin). — 1st Day. We steer to the
NV. and in "■, far., at the Mogren Point (p. 429), reach the White
Nile, which forms the verdant island of Dakin at its confluence with
the Blue Nile. The steamer enters the W^. arm of the White Nile.
The so-called 'Gordon's Tree' or'Mushir Bey' forms a landmark which
is conspicuous far and near. W^hen the river is high it is 2-3 M.
wide and resembles a great lake. Large herds of cattle may frequently
be seen grazing on the low flat banks. — On the E. bank of the river,
31 M. from Khartum, rises the hill of GebeL Auli, the limestone quar-
ries of which yielded the material for All Saints' Cathedral and other
buildings at Kbartum. About 29 M. farther on (E. bank) is the
Ge'iel Maniara, on which lies El-Geteina, a large village inhabited
mainly by Danagla Arabs. — 2nd Day. The banks are now covered
with low but thick groves of mimosa and acacia. In the distance we
see the Oebel Ara<hkol, a group of bare rocky hills about 330 ft. in
height. — 130 M. El-Dueim (W. bank), the capital of the province
of the White Nile, with regularly laid out streets, is inhabited by
Danagla and Hassaniyeh Arabs. It has a small mosque, designed by
a Greek architect, and an unpretending Greek cafe. Barley, wheat,
onions, and hibiscus plants are cultivated here. Ed-Dueim was once
the chief trading-centre for gum arable, but has been superseded by
El-Obpid (see above) since tlie construction of the railway. This was
the point at which the Egyptian force of Hicks Pasha quitted the Nile
434 Route 34. SOUTHERN SUDAN.
(see p. 433). — Ban Day. 151 M. Kawa (E. bank), the chief town
of a district, ^vlth houses (tukuls) the curious straw roofs of which
arrest our attention. — The steamer now reaches the N. end of the
densely wooded Island of Abba or Aba (2S^/2 M. long), the base of
the Mahdi in his religious war of 1883 (p. cxxiv). — 181 M. Faahi
Shoya, on the W. bank, was the home of the Mahdi. — 199 M. Kosti
(W. bank; see p. 433), opposite the S. end of Abba Island; on the
opposite (E.) river-bank lies the village of Goz Abu Gum'a.
From Khartum to Gonuokoro and Rejaf, on theBahr el-Gebel,
1096 M. On the 6th and 21st of each month starts a government-
steamer, which occupies 15 days for the voyage upstream and 11 days
for the return (return-fares £ E 38, 50 pias., £ E 19, 25 pias. ; meals
60 and 45 pias. per day). In addition to these steamers a tourist-
steamer leaves on Feb. 1st (return-fare, inch meals, £ E 66, 10 pias.,
servants £ E 40, 70 pias.; particulars from the tourist- agents In
Cairo, p. 38). — From Khartum to Kosti (Ooz Abu Gum'a), see p. 433
and above. About 4 M. beyond Kosti the steamer passes through the
large railway bridge mentioned on p. 432. We now enter the region
of the 'Blacks'; at many of the stations war-dances are performed for
the benefit of the tourists. The forests often come right down to the
river-banks, and hippopotami, crocodiles, gazelles, and innumerable
water-fowl may be seen. On the E. bank is the territory of the Dinka
negroes. — About 246 M. from Khartum we see on the E. bank the
ridge of Gebelein (Jebelein, 'the two mountains'), with a govern-
ment rubber plantation. Here the serut fly is met with for the first
time; though not poisonous, it is very troublesome. — 4th Day.
305 M. Eenk (E. bank). — 5th Day. At a point 364 M. from
Khartum we pass the 6 eb el Ahmed Agha, a cliff 345 ft. in height. —
408 M. Kaka (W. bank), to the N. of which is a government rubber
plantation. Kaka consists of a group of settlements of Shilluk negroes,
who live partly by hunting and fishing and who build ingenious boats.
The river sweeps round towards the E., separating the Dinka negroes
on the E. bank from the Shilluk negroes on the W. bank. Neither of
these tribes wear clothes but both adorn theni selves with all kinds of
ornaments; they carry long spears. The Shilluks are much superior
to the Dinkas. — 6th Day. 424 M. Melut (E. bank). The river again
bends towards the S. — 469 M. Kodok {Fashoda; 1035 ft.), on the
W. bank, capital of the province of the Upper Nile, was occupied by
the French under General Marchand from July 10th to Dec. 11th,
1898, but was then ceded to the British. It has an evil reputation
for malarial fever; the climate is sultry and damp and mosquitoes
abound. In the vicinity is the capital of the Shilluks and the resi-
dence of their 'Mek' (from melek, i. e. king), or hereditary headman.
The tomb of the first king Nyikong at Kodok is an object of great
veneration among the natives. — 7th Day. 487 M. Lul, a station
of the Austrian Roman Catholic Mission (p. 427). The scenery be-
comes very dreary. The W. bank is lined with Shilluk villages,
SOUTHERN SUDAN. 34. Route. 435
each surrounded by groups of duleib palms (Borassus /Ethiopicus).
— 520 M. Taufikia (E. bank), the chief garrison of the Upper SudAn.
Steamer hence to Meshra' er-Rek and Ganibela, see p. 436. About
5 M. farther up, on the E., the Sohal joins the White Nile, which
now flows from W. to E. The steamer ascends the Sobat to (ca. 6 M.)
Hillet Duleib (Duleib Hill), a station of the American Presbyterian
Mission mentioned on p. 233, and then returns to the White Nile.
To the S., a little way inland, lies Kio, with a government rubber
plantation. — 8th Day. 554 >I. Zeraf Mouth, at the mouth of the
Bdhr ez-Zeruf (^ Giraffe River^), which flows into the White Nile from
the S. About 9 M. farther on is the Austrian Mission station of Tonya.
Fully 60 M. to the N. we may distinguish the Gebel el-Amira and
Gebel Eliri. Elephants, buffaloes, and some rare species of antelope
are seen from time to time. — At (603 M.) Mouth of Gebel we reach
Lake No, where the Bahr el-Gebel, coming from the S., and the Bahr
el-GhazCil or '■Gazelle River^ (see p. 436) unite to form the White
Nile. — 9th Day. The steamer turns to the S. up the Bahr el-Gebel,
through the swampy waters of the 'Sudd' or ^Sadd\ This name,
which means hindrance or barrier, has been given on account of the
blockading masses of water-plants which form floating islands con-
siderable enough to obstruct the course of the river at frequent inter-
vals. Of recent years, however, the river has been cleared of these
barriers of vegetation at several points, and the strong current has
prevented fresh accummulations from forming. A factory in Khar-
tum now manufactures paper and rope out of the sudd, using also
as fuel suddite or peat-briquettes made from the sudd, according to
a process invented by Prof. Hoering. On the river-bank are tablets
giving the distance from Lake No to Kemseh (see below). — 10th Day.
The station of Zeraf New Cut is reached. — 11th Day. 853 M.
Sharnbe, the chief town of a district in the province of Bahr el-Ghazal,
whence a caravan-route leads to the W. via Rumbek to Wau (p. 436),
the capital of the province. Large quantities of hippopotami in-
habit the lagoons here. — 12th Day. 906 M. Ken'iseh. a deserted
station of the Austrian Mission. The region becomes more thickly
wooded; diim and duleib palms abound. — 13th Day. 973 M. Bar
(1410 ft.), the chief town of a district in tlie province of Mongalla,
with a government rubber plantation. The village of tlie same name
lies 9 M. inland and is the largest settlement of the Dinka negroes.
To the S. begins the territory of the Bari negroes. We next reach
the English Mission station of Malek. The river divides into two
arms, then reunites to form the E. frontier of the former 'Lado
Enclave' (17,000 sq. M.), which was leased to the Congo Free State
in 1894-1910 but now belongs to the province of Mongalla. The
scenery assumes a park-like character.
'Luxuriant tropical vegetation abounds. Giant Euphorbia are u ui;irked
feature of tlie forest. The whole of the banks and most of the trees are
covered with a velvety-lookin;; mass of creepers. A blulT, 10-13 ft. high,
projects into the stream The face of this clitl is perforated by
436 Route 34. SOUTHERN SUDAN.
myriads of holes made by a very beautil'ul and tiny species of bee-eater.
These birds have rose-coloured wings, vyiih broQ/e-coloured bodies. They
add much to the beauty of a lovely scene' (Oarslin).
14th Day. 1016 M. Giggings, the chief town of a district. The
Gebel Lad6 comes in sight. 1042 M. Kiro, prettily situated on tlie
W. bank, in the midst of trees. On an island in the river pawpaw-
trees and vegetables are grown; otherwise there appears to be no
cultivation. 1055 M. Mongalla, on the E. bank, is the capital of
tlie province of Mongalla, which is remarkable for the large number
of elephants and giraffes it contains. The Myambnra Mts. on the W.
and the mountain ranges of Uganda on the S. now become visible.
Navigation is impeded here by shoals and sandbanks. — 15th Day.
1068 M. Lud6 (1475 ft.), now the chief town of a district, was
founded by Gordon in 18<"4, and was in 1878-85 the headquarters of
Emin Paslia; later it became a Belgian military station (see p. 435).
— 1077 M. Gondokoro (N. lat. 4" 54', E. long. 31° 46'), the northern-
most station of the British Uganda Protectorate, is the seat of a British
sub-commissioner. It is garrisoned by the Uganda Rifles. The place
is strikingly situated on the lofty and thickly wooded bank of the
river, with the mountains of Lado and Rejaf in the background. —
1096 M. Erjaf is reached on the 15th day.
From Rejaf we may prueeed upstreym to (97 M.) Mmule , whence
sailing- boats wnd a tmall steamer (in connection with the Khartum
steamer) ply up the "Vile (Bahr elGebel) via Wadeiai, once the residence
of Emin Pasha, to (ca. 250 M.) the Albert Nyanza (2035 ft.); and thence
we may go on overland to the S.E. (partly by motor-vehicle) to (ca. 530 M.)
the Victoria Nyama (37-^5 ft.). A small steamer plies on this lake fort-
nightly from EntrOhe (3650 ft), the capital of the Uganda Protectorate, to
(175 M.) Port Florence (Kisvmu), the ,'tai ting-point of the Uganda Railway,
a narrow-gauge line (re chin;; 7940 ft. at its highest pc int) running via,
(257 M.) Nairobi (5560 ft.), capital of British East Africa, to (584 M. in
48 hrs.) Mombasa, an important harbour on the Indian Ocean. Thence
the return to E^y|it (Suez Canal) or England may be made by the Union
Castle Line or the British India Sleam Navigation Co.
From KhaktBm to Meshra' ee-Rkk, 780 M.; steamer ou the first day
of each month in 11 days (1st cl. fiief E 15, 60 pias.). — To (520 M.) Taufikia
and (603 M.) Lake A'o, see pp. 434, 455. Thence the steamer ascends the
Bahr el-Ghazal to (700 M.) Ghabat el-'Arab, at the mouth of the Ba/ir el-'Arab.,
which flows in from the W. We now take a S direction. 723 M. Jtir River
Mouth, at the confluence of the Jur and the Bahr el-Ghazal, which here
expands info a lake called Lake Ambadi. — 780 M. (3 days from Taufikia)
Heshra' er-Rek, the chief town of a district in the province of Bahr el-
Ghazfil, whence there is a steamer service in July and August to Wau (p. 435).
Fkom Khartum to Gambela (on the Sobat), 880 M.; steamer once a
month from June to Nov. (when the Soliat is navijiable), in 13 days (1ft cl.
fare £ E 17,8 pias.). — To Taufikia and (531 M.) Hillei Duleib, see pp. 434, 435.
— We continue to ascend the Sobat. 597 M. Ab}co"g, the chief town of a
district in the province of the Upper Nile; 707 M. Fort Nasr (Nasser;
1525 ft.). — On the fifth day after leaving Taufikia we reach the month of
the Baro, which we ascend, entering Abyssinian territory about 40 M. from
the point of junction. 834 M. Hang. 8-0 JI. Gambela (1700 ft.), a trading-
place and the thief town of the district of that name, on the right bank
of the river. It forms an enclave of the Sfldan, to which it is leased by
the Abyssinian Government.
INDEX.
Besides the names of the places described, this Index contains also
a number of names of persons and other words occurring in the Kontes
and in the Introduction. — The following is a short list of Arabic words
of frequent occurrence (comp. vocabulary, p. xxxii): —
'Ain, Spring.
Bat), Gate.
Bahr, Lake, river (Nile).
Beil, House.
Beled, Village.
Bildd^ Land. District.
Sir, "Well, Cistern.
Birbeh, Temple-ruin.
Birke/i, Pool.
Darb, Derb, Road.
Deii\ Monastery.
Gdini', Mosque.
Gebel, Jlountain.
Gezireh, Island.
K(i/r, Village.
Kal'd, Fortress.
kantara. Bridge.
kasr. Castle.
Kdin, Mound of rubbish.
Afedineh, Town.
Meiddn, Middn, Square,
Place.
Merg^ Meadow.
Rds, Promontory.
Shdri', Street.
Tell, Hill.
Wddi, Valley.
'Ababdeh Beduins Ivii.
356. 374.
.^b'adiyeh xlvii.
Abahu>la 410.
Abaton 371.
Abba Island 434.
^Abba3 I. cxxii. 33. 34.
78. 115.
— II. Hilmi cxxv. 55. 53.
Abbasides cxiv. cxv.
'Abdallah et-Ta'aishi
cxxr. 4.30. 431. 432.
'Abdellatif 130. 144.
'Abd el-kader 27.
— el-Kurna 309.
— er-Rahman 29.
— el-Wahhab xci.
Abercrijmby,Sir Ralph 30.
Abghigh (Abguig) 193.
el-'Abidiyeh(Abidia)421.
'Abkeh 413.
Ablutions, Religious
Ixxxvii. clxxxi.
Abnub 232.
Abotu 237.
Al.uu Chducba 222.
Abousambul 404.
Abu el-Akhdar 181.
— Bekr'cxiii.
— Dis 421.
— Dom 420.
— (iandir 193
— 'Greia (near Berenike)
377.
(near Redesiveb)
376.
— Gurib 140.
Abu Gussi 420.
— Had 377.
— Hamed (Faiyum) ly3
— Hamed (Sudan) 419.
Hammad 181. 171.
— Handal 399.
Hanifa l.xxxv.
Hommos 31.
— Hor 393;
— Kebir 172
— Kerkas 203.
— Khrug cxxiv.
Abukir 30.
.Vbu Klea cxxiv.
Abuksa 192.
Abulfida cxviii. 221. 223.
Abu Na'ama 432.
Abu'n-Nomros 143.
Abu Oda 410.
— <^ir 30.
— Qurgas 209.
— Roash 139.
— Shar el-Kibli 373.
— .Shekuk 172.
— Shusheh 222.
— .Simbel 404.
Abusir (near Behig) 29.
— (near Gi/.eh) 141. 142,
— (2nd Cataract) 413.
— el-Melek 206.
Abu SueirlSO.
— Tarfa 393.
— tig 219. 235.
— Tisht 222.
— Za'bal 120.
— Ziidiyeh xxvi.
Abwong 436.
Baedeker's Egypt. 7th Edit.
Abydos 237.
Achemant 206.
.\cboris cvii. 264.
Acoris,208.
■■Ada Ixxxvi.
Adendan 410.
el-'jidid cxvi.
el-'Adil, Malik cxvi.
— 11. cxvii.
^lian 213. 284.
Ji^milianus cxi.
el-Aldal cxvi.
'Afyeh (Afla) 402.
Aga 172. 173.
Aghurmi'379.
Agricultural Implements
Ixxiii.
— Seasons Ixxiii.
.\griculture Ixx.
el-Aliaiweh 236.
.\hhotep ci.
Ahmed ibn Tuliin cxiv.
■44. 71.
.\hmediyeh Dervishes
xcii.
Ahmose (Kings), lee Ama-
.sis and Amosis.
— , Tomb of (El-Kab)
336.
— , Tomb of (Tell el-
■Amarna) 213.
— Pen-Nekhbeyet,Tomb
of 33B.
Abna?, or
Abnasia el-Medineh 206.
Ah-nofru, Tomb of 337.
Ai, tee Eye.
28
438
INDEX.
Aibek cxvii.
•■Ain Musa 118.
Aiyiibitles civi.
'Akaba, Gulf of 424.
Akhmim 220.
Aklit 349.
Ak;sheh'i411.
Aku, Tomb of 359.
Alamein 29.
Alatiyeh'?xxvi.
Albert Nyanza 436. l.xiv
Alexander the Great
cvii. cxxxyi. 12. 261.
273. 276.
-- II. cvii. 227. 262.
Alexandria 9.
Anfushi, Bay of 19.
Anglican Churche.s 11
16. 26.
Antoniadis Garden 20
Arab Quarter 19.
Armenian Church 16.
Arrival 9.
Bab el-'Arab 26.
Bacos 26.
Bank.9 10.
Baths 9.
Booksellers 11.
Bruchinm 13.
Bulkeley 26.
Cabs 10.
Cafes 9.
Camp de C^sar 26.
Canopic Gate 13. 20.
Carlton 26.
Catacombs 17. 19.
Champs Elysees 20.
Chemists 10.
Churches 11. IG. 20.
Cistern, Ancient 20.
Cleopatra 26.
— , Baths of 26.
Climate Ixxvii.
Clubs 9.
College St. Franooia
Xavier 16.
Commissionnaires 10
Confectioners 9.
Consulates 10.
Coptic Church 20.
Cotton Exchange 16.
Earle's Monument 16.
Eunostos Harboni- It.
Exchange 16.
Farkha Canal 20.
Fleming 26.
Fort Cafarelli 10.
— Kait Bey 13. 19.
— Napoleon 19.
— Silsileh 24.
Gabbari 26.
Gianaclis 26.
Glymenoponlns 26.
Alexandria:
Government Building
19.
Gymnasium 13.
Hadra 20.
Harbours 11. 19.
Heptastadiuni 13. 19.
History 12.
Hospitals 10. 16. 20.
Hotels 9.
Ibrahimiyeh 25.
.Tews' Quarter 13.
Kasr el-Kayasereh 2G.
Kom ed-i)ik iO. 13.
— esh-Shukafa 17.
Laurens 26.'
Law Courts 16.
Library, Ancient 14.
Lighthouse 19.
Mahmudiyeh Canal lo.
i1. 20.
Marine Arsenal 19.
JIazloum Pacha 26.
Meks 26.
Minet el-Bas.sal 16.
— esh-Sharkawiyeb 16.
Mohammed All, Statne
of 15.
Moustapha Pacha 25.
Municipal Building 20.
Museum, Ancient 13.
— of Grseco-Roman
Antiquities 21.
Necropolis 13
Nicopolis 25. 13.
>vuzha Garden 20.
Omdurman Column 20.
Paneum 13.
Pharos, Island of 13 19.
Photographs 11.
Physicians 10.
Place des Consuls, or
— Meh^met Ali 15.
Pompey's Pillar 16.
Pont Neuf, or
— Ibrahim 16.
Porte de Eosette 20.
Post Office 10.
Prisons 20.
Quarantine 26.
Railway Station 9.
Kamleh 26.
Raset-Tin, Palace of 19.
Kegia 13.
Restaurants 9.
Rhakotis 12. 13.
Rond Point 20.
Royal City 13.
Rue Ch^rif Pacha 16.
— d'Allemagne 20.
— de France 19.
— de la Colonne Pom
p^e 16.
Alexandria:
Rue de la Porte de P.o-
sette 20.
— des Soeurs 16.
— du Mus(?e 21.
— dn Premier Khedive
10.
— Ibrahim Premier 16.
— Karmous 17.
— Ras et-Tin 19.
Saba Pacha 26.
St. Catherine's Ch. 16.
St. Mark's Building 16.
.San Stefano 26.
Schools 20.
Schutz 26.
Seffer 26.
Sema 13.
Serapeum 14. 16.
Shatbi 25.
Shops 11.
Sidi Amr, Mosque of 16.
Sidi Gaber 26.
Sporting Club 25.
Square Ste. Catherine
16.
Steamboat Offices 10.
Streets, Ancient 18.
Synagogue 20.
Telegraph Offices 10.
Theatre, Ancient 13.
Theatres 11.
Tombs, Ancient 17. 19.
25.
Topography, Ancient
13.
Tourist Agents 10.
Tramways 9.
Turkish Quarter 19.
Victoria College 26.
— Column 20.
Wardian 26. 27.
Zizinia 26.
'Ali cxiv.
— Bey cxx.
A,l]aki (Allagi) 396.
^Alm'eh xxvii.
Aloa 432.
Alphabet, Arabic xxix.
Amada 399.
Amara 376.
el-'Amarna 211.
Amasis cvi. cxxxvi. 32.
148. 172.
Ambadi, Lake 436.
Ambarkab 383.
Ameid 29.
Amelineau 243.
Amenemheb.ii Memorial
Niche of 401.
— , Tomb of ,311.
Amenemhet L c. cxxxiii.
121. 205.
INDEX.
439
Ainencmlietll.ci.oxxxiii.
167.
— III. ci. cxxxiii. Iti7.
191. 193. 194.
— IV. ci. oxxxiii.
— , Tomb of 312.
Amenemopet civ.
— , Tomb of (Hiliau fl-
Mnluk) 283.
— , Tomb (if tDrab Abiil
Nc'ga) 283.
— , Tomb of (Sheikb 'Abil
el-Kurna) 313.
Ameiiephthes ciii. cxxxv.
209. m. '22tt. 242. 278.
309. 340.
- , Tomb (if 287.
Amonertiiis c.^cxxvi. .Tir..
27^. 278.
Ainen-her-kliopshef,
Tomb of ;i2f.
Amenliotep (King.s), see
Amoiiopliis.
— , the Sage cxliii. 304.
— , Tomb of_3l3.
Ameni(-em-het), Tomb of
230.
Amen-meses ciii.
— , Tomb of 289.
Amenmose, Tomb of
{r)rahAbu'l>rfgga)283.
— , Tomb of (Sheikh 'Abd
el-Kurna) 313.
Amerioiihisl. ci. cxxxiv.
218. 309.
— I., Tomb of 298.
— II. cii. cxxxiv. 280.
309. 3S9. 399.
— II., Tomb of 297.
— III. cii. cx.xxiv. 212.
257. 260. 261. 272. 280.
330. 334.
— III., Touib of 29S.
— IV. cii. cxxxiv. 209.
211. 212. 257.
— IV.. Tomb of 298.
— IV., Family Tomb of
217.
Amentet 240.
Amen-wehsu, Tomb of
315.
American Mi.ssion 33. 42.
232. 233. Ivi.
— Residents Ixiii.
Ammianu.s Marcellinius
237. 281.
Ammonium 378.
Amnis Trajanus 182.
Amon cxlvi. cxlix. cliii.
237. 257. 265. 274. 282.
300. 304. 3U6. 323. 376.
398. 404. 410. 422.
Amosis ci. cxxxiv.
'Amr ibn el-'A.i cxiii. 16,
41. 109. 144.' 1S3. 3.S7.
.\rariyeh 27.
Amunet 274.
Amyrticos cvi.
Anastasius cxiii.
'Anatireh xxvi.
'Anibeh (Aneiba) 402.
Animals. Sacred cxli.
Antfeopolis 236.
Aateeus cxlix. 236.
Antinoupolis (Antino(')
209.
Antiquities 41. 81. 252.
Antoninus Pins cxi.
cxxxis. 330. 381.
Antony ex. 13.
Anubis cxlvii. cxlix.
cliii. 207. 301.
Anuket (Annkis) <;xlix.
3{)3.
A pet 254.
Aphroditespolis (Gi^bu-
lein) 333.
— (Kom Eshkaf) 219.
Aphroditopolis 205.
Apis cxli. cxlix. 147.
— Tombs at.Sakk;lra J47.
Apophis cxxxiii.
Apollonopolis )Iagna343.
— Parva 223.
Apries cvi. cxxxvi. 144.
el-'Araba, or
Araba el-JIadfuneh 237.
'Arab eKAtijat 219.
.\rabian Desert Ixix. 362.
3(2.
Arabi Bey cxxiii. 181.
Arabic Language xxviii.
Arab Town-Dwellers lix,
el-'Arayish Ileduins Iviii
Arcadius cxii. 28.
.Vrohitecture, Arabian
clxxviii.
— , Egyptian clvi.
Ardebb ii.
Areika 399.
Argo' 420.
Arians cxii.
Arkin 411.
.■irmant 332. 341.
Armenians Ixii.
Armenna 403.
Arsinoe (town) 192.
— I. (fe II. cvii. cxxxvii
192.
— III. cviii.
Art, Arabian clxxviii.
— , Egyptian clvii.
Artaxerxes I.-III. cvi.
Arlikargu 411.
el-Asasif 305.
Asfun el-Mata'neU 333.
Ashkit 411.
Asbment 206.
Ashmun 33.
el-Ashniunein 209.
A.shmiin er-Kumman 174.
cl-A.shraf Hars Beyicxix.
53. 113.
Ashrafi Keef 424.
el-Ashraf Khalil cxvii.
76.
Asklepiodotns 331.
Asotriba 425.
Asphyuis 333.
el-Assirat 221.
Assiut 232. 219.
, Province of 233. xlvii.
Barrage 232.
Assiian (Aswan)353. xxii.
— , Dam of 371.
'.\taka Mountains 181.
Atbara. the Ixiv. 421.
— Junction 421.
\tb6 343.
Atf 32.
Atfih 205.
.\thanasius cxii.
Athribis (near Benba)34.
— (near Sohag) 220.
'Afmilr 420.
Atrepe 220.
Atrun Island 358.
Atum cxl. cxliii. cxlvi.
c.xHx. cliii. 121. 278.
Atwani Beduins Iviii.
Auaris ci.
Augustus, Emperor ex.
cxxxviii. 13. 250. 370.
389. 393.
Aulad 'Amr 222.
Aurelian cxi.
.Vusim 32.
Austrian Residents Ixiii.
Autumn Season Ixxiii.
Avidius Cassius cxi.
'Awalim xxvii.
Awas el-Guarani 399.
el-'Ayat 224. 205.
el-'Aziz cxv. 55. 77.
el-Bab 387.
Bab Abu Hor 393.
— el-Hosan 305.
— el-Kalabsheh 389.
Babylon, Citadel 44.
Bacchias 197.
Racos 26.
el-Badari 235.
Badrechein 143.
Badr el-Gamali cxvi. 77.
116.
Bah 173.
Babaria Oasis 379.
Bahnasa 207.
■2b*
440
INDEX.
Bahr el-Abyad Ixiv.
— el-'Arab 43fi.
— el-Azrak Ixiv.
— Basandileb 175.
— el-Gebel Ixiv. 435.
— e]-Ghaz;a Ixiv. 435.
, Province of 415.
Bahrif, Island of 362. 352
>!ahr)yeh. Oasis of 371)
207. xlvii.
Babr Kolzuni IS'i.
— el-Libeiiii 145.
— el-JIasbra' 172.
— Seik'b 194.
el-Gedid 191. 194.
— Sbibin 34 175.
— es-Sughaivar 173.
— Tireh 175.
— el-Wadi 191. 195.
— Yflauf 190. 192. 218
— ez-Zeraf Jxiv. 436.
BnV, Tomb of 291.
Baibars, xee Beybar.-;.
Bairam, see Beiram.
Baiyumiyeh Dervishes
xcii.
Baker, Sir I!. 232. 372.
Baket, Tomb of 228.
Kakliyeh 173.
Bakshiib xxiv.
Balab 179.
— , Lake 186
Balasfura 221.
Balat 382.
Balbilla 331.
Baldwin, King cxvi.
Baliana ^21. 238.
Ballah 179
Ballaneb (Baliana) 410.
r.allas 260
Baltim 174.
Baranka 225.
Barankwa 432.
Bardis 221.
llari Negroes 436.
Bans 382.
Barkuk cxviii. 45. 76. 112.
Baro 436.
el-Baroud 250.
Barrage (station) 33. 121.
— du Nil 122.
Barrages 122. 174. 206.
232. 342. 371.
Barsanti 395. 404.
Bars Bev cxlx. 63. 113.
Bariid 250.
Basaliyeh (El-Basalia)
343.
Basandileb 176.
el-Basatin 119.
Basb-Katib 194.
Bastet cxl. cxlvi. cxlix.
171.
Basyun 33.
Raths xxvii. clxxxvi
Hatn el-Hagar 412
— narit'196.
Batra 175.
cl-Bats Canal 191.
Bawit, 218.
I'awiti 379.
Jlazaars 41. 50.
Beba 206.
I'.ebi, Tomb of 337.
ISedrasUein 143.
Heduins, the Ivii.
I'.ega Ivii.
ljegt;ars xxiv. 48.
Begig 193.
Behbit 175.
— el-Hagar 174.
Beheireh, Province of
xlvii. 31.
Beheiret Marynt 27.
Behig 28. 29."
Behnesa 207.
— , Oasis of 379.
Heiram xcvi. xcvii.
Beit Khaliaf 221.
— el-Wali 391.
Bckenranf civ.
Beket. Tombs o f 228. JSl
Beki 397.
Belal 420.
Belbeis 171.
Belkas 175.
Belial 387.
Beltan 173. 171.
Belzoni 126. 132. 308.
Belzoni's Tomb 292.
15enben cxlvi.
Heuha 34. 173. 181.
Bciii 'Adi 219.
— ''Amran 211.
r.enihiisan 226.
Beni'Hodeir 20G.
— Hu'sein Sheriik 226.
— Mazar 207. 22b.
Mohammed 1'32.
— Saleh/93.
Soliman 225.
Benisueif 206. 225.
, Province of 206. xlvii.
Beni WaselBeduins Iviii.
Berber 421.
, Province of 415.
Berenice, Queen cviii
cxxxvii.
Berenike 377.
fieris (Berys) 382.
Berma 33.
Bes cxliii. cl. 237.
Beybars I. cxvii. 78.
Biid 206.
Biahmu 193. 192.
Biala 175.
Biban el-Harim 319.
— el-Mulii"k 284.
Bibeh 206
Bibliography olxxxvii.
Biela 175.
Bigeh, or
Biggeh:370.
Bihamu 193.
Bilad el-Barabra .884.
liilak .364.
Bir 'Abbad 376.
— 'Arabar 373.
el-Birba 221.
Birbeb 397.
Bir Bena^a 423.
— 'Eseili 28.
— el-Fahm Hi).
— Fuka 29.
— Gharadik 378.
— Goaiferi"378.
— Hammamat 375.
— Hooker 3>.
— el-Inglis 375.
— el-Kash 376.
liirket Karun 196.
— eI-Mallaha,278.
— es-Saba^'33. 174.
r.ir el-Mo'il;i, 376.
— el-Muelha"362.
— Murat 419.
— es-Sidd 375.
Birth Houses olxiii. 250.
348. 352.''367. 408.
Bir Umm Hebal 362.
Blsharin Beduins Ivii.
356.
Bitter Lakes, the 186.
Biyala 175. 174.
Blemmyes 365. 364 386.
Ivii.
Blue Kile, the Ixiv. 427.
Province 415.
Blunted Pyramid 167.
Bochchoris civ. cxxxv.
Boghaz 177.
Bolbitinie Arm of the
Nile 30. Ixvii.
Bunaparte cxx. 30. 46. 79.
183. 367.
Bor 435.
Borchardt, L. 42. 12C.
140 141.
Borollos, Lake 177.
Bi.seili 'M.
el-Bosra 235.
Bouche 206.
Brick Pyramids clxx.
Brindisi 3. 6.
British Residents Ixiii.
Browne, W. G. 126. 378.
Bruce, J. 126.
Bruce*s Tomb 289.
Brugsch,H.lx. cxx vi. 186.
INDEX.
441
Bubastide Dyn. civ.
ISubastis civ.' 171.
Buchis cxli.
Bueolians cxi.
Bucolic Arm of the Nile
Ixvii.
Buffoons XX vii.
fil-Buha 172.
Buhen»412.
Buhiyeh Canal 172.
Jiuildinfts, Arabian
clxxviii.
— , Egyptian clxi.
llukir Birds 226.
IJukiri.i 30.
Bulak 78.
— ed'-Uakrui- 143.
Bulkeley'26.
Burckhardt, J. L. 77. 404.
Kurdein 171.
Burhamiyeh Dervishes
xcii.
Kurlus, Lake 177.
Bursbey, see Bars Bey.
Bush 206.
Busili 30.
Butig 219. 235.
Buto (Wto) cxlv. i7J.
Byzantines cxii.
Cabs xviii.
Cfesar cix. 12.
Cafes, Arab .xxvi.
Cailliaud, F. 376. 420.
Cairo 35. sxi.
'Abbas II. Bridge 123.
104.
'Abbisiyeb 78.
Abu Sergeh, Church ol'
107.
Administratioa Build-
ing 62.
el-'Adra, Church of 109.
Agriculture, Govern-
ment' School of 80.
'Ain es-Sira 115.
Alabaster Mosque 68.
American Mission 42.
Amr, Mosque of 109.
Anglican Church 42. 52.
Aquarium 79.
Aqueduct, Old 116. 104.
Arabian Museum 02.
Archives, Gov. 68.
Arsenal 79.
el-'Askar 44.
'Ataba el-Khadra .51.
Bab el-Attaba'(Atabet')
116.
— el-'Azab' 68.
— el-Futuh 77.
— el-Gebei 70.
— el-Gedid 68.
Cairo :
Bab el-Karafeh 68. 115.
— el-Metwalli 61.
— en-Nasr 77.
— el-Wastani 08.
lifibvlon, Citadel 44. 106
Bab Zuweileh 60.
Bacterioloeical In-
stitute 53.
Bakers 37.
Bankers 37.
Barbers, Arab 48.
Earkukiyeh 76.
Baths iO.
Bazaars {see also Suk)
41. 50.
— , Bookbinders' 55.
— , Booksellers' 54.
— , Brass 54.
— , Carpet 54.
— , Coppersmiths' 75
— , Goldsmiths' 74.
— . Shoemakers' 54. 58
62.
— , Silversmiths' 74.
— , Spice 58.
Beggars 48.
Beit el-Kadi 75.
Bektash'i, Monasterv ol
the 70.
Bibliographv 46.
Hirket el-Ftl 74.
Bir Yusuf 70.
Bookbinders, House of
the 59.
Booksellers, Arab 5i.
— , European 40
Bridges 78. 79. 80. lOi.
123.
British Agency 37. 52.
Bulak 78.
— Bridge J9.
Burckhardt's Tomb 77
Cabs 39.
Cafes 37.
Caliphs,' Tombs of tue
111.
Sultan Barkuk 112
— Bars Bey 113.
Mother of Bars Bey
113.
Sheikh Galal 111.
Em;r!;of Sultan EI-
Ghuri 111.
Sultan lual 112.
— Kait Bey 113,
Emi^ Kebir 112.
Ma'bed^er-Rifa'iyeh
113.
Sliaraf ed-Din'^'Ana-
113. _
Suleiman 113.
Khedive Taufik 114.
Cairo :
Carpets 41. 54.
Cemeteries, Christian
104.
— . Mohammedan 77.
HI. 115.
Chemical Laboratory,
Khedivial 53.
Chemists 40.
Churches 42.
Cigars 41.
Citadel 68.
Climate Ixxvii.
Clubs 42.
Confectioner.s 37.
Consulates 37.
Coptic Churches 42. 78.
107. 109.
— Convents 105.
Correction, House of79.
Dancing Dervishes 71.
Dar Beshtak 76.
Deir Abu Sefein 105.
— el-Magauri 70.
— Mari Mina;i04.
Derb el-Ahmar 61.
Dervi.sh Monasteries
70. 71.
Diplomatic Agents 37.
Donkeys 39.
Dragomans 39.
Education Office' 53.
E.;yptian,J'useuin, fee
Museum.
Kmbabeh 79.
Embroiderv, Oriental
41.
Express^Railway 39.
Ezbekiyeh 51.
Fadawiyeh Mausoleum
78.
Fish Market 52.
Fustat'44. 109.
Ganiai ed-Din, House of
59.
Gami' Abu Bekr'Maz-
har el-Ansari 76.
— Abu'l 'Eia 79.
— Abu Su'ud 111.
— el-Ahmar 59.
— Emir Akhor 68.
— el-Akmar 76.
— Aksunkor 61.,
— 'Ainr ibn el-'As 109.
— el-Ashraf Bars Bey
53.
— el-Azhar 55.
— cl-Azrak 61.
— Sultan Beybars II.
77. ■
— el-Burdeini 66.
- Ezbek el-Yusefi 73.
— el-Ghuri 59.
442
INDEX.
Cairo :
Garni' Giyiislii 116.
— Gohar 68.
— el-Hakim 77.
— Sultan Hasan 66.
— el-Hasanein 54.
— Ibrahim Agha 61.
— Kait Bey 73.
— • Kasr el-'Aini 53.
— el-Keisun 66.
— el-Kbaliiwati 117.
— Kijmas el-Ishaki61.
— el-JIahmiidiyeh 68
— el-Malika Safiya 66.
— el-Mardani 61.
— Mohammed 'Ali 68.
Bev Abu Dahab
53.
— el-Muaiyad 59.
— en-Nasir 70.
— Rifa'iyeb 66.
— Salih Talayeh 62.
— Sangar el-Gauli 74.
— Sarghutrtiash 73.
— Saryat 70.
— es-Seiyideli Zeinab
74.
— Seiyidna 'l-Hosein
54.
— .ShekbuU 71.
— es-Sinaniyeb 79.
— Sisariyeb 70.
— Suleiman Basha 70.
— Ibn-Tulun 71.
— ez-Zahir 78.
Gates,' «ee Bab.
Gebel el-Ahniar 115
— Givushi'116
— cl-kbasbab 118.
— Yesbkur 71.
Geographical Society
42. 53.
Geology, Museum of 52.
German Archaeological
Institute 42. 79
Gezireh 79.
Ghezireb Palace Hotel
36. 79.
Gizeh^BO.
Goods Agents 41.
Gouvernorat 62.
Greek Church 42. 58.
Hairdressers 40.
Heliopolis, Old 120.
— Oasis 119.
Hemali 48.
History 44.
H6sb"el-Basha 115.
Hosbkadam 59.
Hospitals 40. 78. 106.
Hotels 35.
Ibrihim Pasha, Statue
of 51.
Cairo :
Imam Sbafi'i , Tomb
Mosque of 115.
Institut Egyptian 42.
53.
— ■ Fiancais d'Archeo-
logieOrientale 42. 53.
l.sma'iliyeh Quarter 52.
Joseph's Well 70.
el-Kara 68.
Karat el-Kabsb 71.
Kasr el-'Aini, Hospital
■ of 40. 53.
— en-Nil .52.
Bridge 70.
— esh-Sliam''a 106.
elKatai' 44.
Keniset Eliabu 109.
Khaiyal ed-l)ill 42.
el-Khalig,Canal53. 101.
Klian el-Kbalili 54.
Kbedivial Library 6i.
— Palace 51. 120.
Kulla Manufactories
■ 110.
Kutubkhaneb 64.
Library. Kbedivial 64
el - Malek es - Saleb
Bridge 101. '
Mamelukes, Castle of
the 117.
— , Tombs of the llu.
Mandura, Tree of 105.
Mariette's Statue and
Tomb 81.
Blari Girgis, Cburcb nf
109.
Masr el-'Atika 44.
— el-Kadimeh 105. 44
Medreseb Kait Bey 73.
— en-Niisir 76.
— Sarsrhutmash 73.
Meria House Hotel 36.
123.
Mdtropolitaiu Railway
39.
Mevlevis, Monastery of
the 71.
Midan (see also Place)
'Abdin 51.
— Bab el-Hadid 78.
— Fumm el-Khalig 104.
— el-Oezireb 79.
— Isma'iliyeh 62.
— el Khazindar 52.
— Ramses 78.
— tialadin 68.
— Suleiman Basha 52
— et-Teatro 51.
— ez-Zahir 78.
Mikyas 105.
Minarets, Heights of 66.
el-Mo'allaka 107.
Cairo :
Model Workshops 79.
Mokattam Hills 116.
Moses, Spring of 118.
Mosques, see Garni'.
Muristan Kalaun 75.
Museum, Arabian 62.
MusEDM, Egyptian 80.
Abhotep 98.
Ainenemhet III. 84.
Amenertais 88.
Amenhotep 85. 81.
Amenopbis III. 86.
Ancient Empire 82.
Canopus, Decree of
88.
CopticMonumcnts89.
104
Dahshur, Treasure of
97.
Foreign Dyn. & tlie
Later Period 87.
Gaul 88.
Geese (Meidum) 83.
Gold Treasure of the
19th Dyn. lOU.
Grieco-Roman Monu-
ments 88.
Harhotep, Tomb
Chamber of 84.
Itatbor, Cow of 85.
Ilor 84. 98.
fsrael Stele 86.
Jewelry 97.
Kbcpbreu 83.
Manuscripts, etc. 101.
.Mentemhet 89.
Middle Empire <fe
Hyksos Period 84.
Mummies of the
Priests of Amon 90.
— , Royal 93.
Natural History Col-
lection 90.
New Empire 84.
Papyri 101.
Phiops 83.
Piankbi 88.
Pithom Stele 88.
Punt, Queen of 85.
Ua-hotep 83.
Ka-nofer 84.
Sakkara, Tablet of
8'7:
Sale Room 81.
Sesostris I. 84.
Sheikh el-Beled 82
Soldiers 92.
Stone Implements 90.
Taharka 89.
Tell el-'Amarna
Tablets 89.
Tewosret 99. 100.
INDEX.
443
Oairo :
JIdsedm, Kgtptian:
Teye 09.
Tliutiuosis HI. 86.
— III., Triumphal
3l0Dunient of 85.
— IV. 85.
— IV., Chariot of i'O.
Ti 84.
Toeris 87.
Ti1kh el-Karamri?,
Treasure of 99.
JIu.ski 53.
eu-Na.«ir,Medi-esL'h and
Tomb (if 76.
Xasriveh Training; Col-
lege 53.
Xewspapers 40.
Kilometer 105.
Okellasof KaitBev 57
77.
Old Cairo lOG.
Opera House 41. 51.
Palace Kasr ed-Du-
bara 52.
— of Count Zogheb 52.
Pensions 36.
Petrified Forests 118.
119.
Photographs 40.
Physicians 40.
Place (see also Midan)
El-'.4itaba el-Khadra
51.
— Bab el-K.hall< 62.
— Mohammed Ali C8
— de POpera 51.
— Ramses 78.
— Rumeileh 68.
— Saladin 68.
Police 37. 62.
Polytechnic School 80
Pont des Anglais 80.
Population 44.
Post Office 37. 51.
Printing (Mfice.Gov. 79
Prison 68.
Private Apartments 36,
Public Health Depart-
ment .53.
— Works, Ministry of
52.
Rab' Kait Bey 113.
Railway Stations 35.
Rennebaum's Volcano
115.
Restaurants 36.
Roda, Island of 105.
Rod el-Farag 78.
Roman Gate 107.
Rue Neuve 63.
Sahel Attar en-Nebi
106.
Cairo:
St. Barbara's Church
109.
St. George, Convent of
107.
St. Sergiu."!, Church of
107.
.Sakka 48.
Sctidols, Arab 49.
— , European 42.
.Sebil 'Abd er-l!ahmaii
16.
— Sultan Farag 61.
— — Malimud 74.
— of Mohammed Ali 59
of Sheikh Motahhar
74.
— of the Mother of
'Abbas I. 71.
— of the Mother of Is-
ma'il Pasha 78.
— of Emir Shekhuh
115.
Shallow Plays 42.
csh Shamyan 109.
Shari' el-'Abbasiyeh 7S
— Abu'l 'Ela 79.
— el-'Akkadin 59.
— el-Ashrafiyeh 59.
— Bab el-Futuh 76.
el-Khalk 74.
en-Nasr 77.
el-Wezir 61.
— Beit el-Kadi 75.
— Bulak 52.
— Clot Bey 78.
— el-Faggala 78.
— el-Fahhamin 58.
— Fumm el-Khalig
104.
— el-6amaliyeli 77.
— el-Ghuri .59.
— el-Gizeh SO.
— el-G6hargiyeh 75.
— el-II:ibbaniyeU 74.
— el-nalwagi"54.
— el-Hamzawi el-
Kebir 58.
— — es-Seghir 58.
— el-Hiliniveh 70.
— Ibn Tulun 71.
— Kasr el-'Aini 52.
'- en-Nil 62.
— el-Khedeiri 73.
— el-Khiyamiyeh 62.
— el-Khordagiyeh 71.
— el-Lobiidiyeh 74.
— el-Maghrabi 52.
— el-Manakh 52.
— el-Marasin 73.
— el - Margush el - Bar-
rani 76.
— Masrel-Kadimeh 104.
Cairo :
Shari' Mastabet el-
MahmalJ68.
— el-Menaggidin 59.
— Mohammed .'Ali' 62.
— en-Nahhasin 76.
— er-Rukbiveh 70.
— es Sahil 79.
— es-Sanadikiych 58.
— Seiyideh Zeinab 74.
— esh-Sharawani'63.
— Shubra 78.
— es-Siyufjyeh 70.
— Sukkariyeh 59.
— Suleiman Basha 52.
— et-Tabbaneh 61.
— et-Tarbiyeh 58.
— ez-Zahir 78.
Shekhuh,Conventof71.
Shops, European 40.
Shubra 78.
Sikkeh el-Gedideh 53.
Sikket el-Badistan 54.
Societies, Scientific 42.
Sporting CIub•42.^79.
Stationers 40.
Steamboat Offices^ 38.
Steamboats 39.
Street Scenes 46.
Sudan Agency 52.
Suk {see also Bazaar.s)
ei-'Attarin 58.
— el-Hamzawi 68.
— el-Kanto 53.
Sukkariyeh 59.
Suk el-Ka.?r,68.
— el-Khordagiyeh 50.
— en-Nahhasin 50.
— es-Saigli 74.
— es-Sudan 58.
.•^uleiman Pasha, Monu-
ment of 52.
Survey Department 80.
.Synagogues 42. 109.
Taufik, Tomb of 114.
Taufikiyeh (Juarter 52.
Technical School 79.
Tekkiyeh es-SultIn
Mahmud (or Habba-
niyeh) 74.
Telegraph Offices 37.
Theatres 41.
Tobacco 41.
Tourist Agents 38.
Tramways 38.
Tribunal, Internat. 51.
University Egyptienne
52.
University of £1-Azhar
55.
Virgin's Tree 120.
War Office 52.
Water Carriers 48.
444
INDEX.
Cairo :
Windmill Hills 114.
Woodwork, Arab 41.
Zabtiyeh (Police) 37.
Zikr of the Dancing
Dervishes 71.
Zoological Gardens 80.
Calendar, Mohammedan
xcv.
Caligula ex. cxxxviii.
Caliphs cxix.
Cambyses cvi. cxxxvi.
144. 148. 3S6.
Camels 372. 417.
Campbell's Tomb 138.
Camp de Ce'sar 25.
Candace ex. 336.
(^anopi cxlix.
Canopic Arm of the Nile
30. Ixvii.
Canopus 30.
— , Decree of 88.
Caracalla cxi. cxxxix. 14
Carlton 26.
('arter, H. 305.
Cartouches cxxvi. exxx.
cxxxiii.
Cataract, First 303
— . Second 412.
— , Fourth 419.
— , Fifth 421.
— , Sixth 423.
Cat.«, Jlummies of cxli.
227.
Caviglial26. 131.135. 144
Cereals Ixxiv.
Chagab 333.
Challal 363.
Champollion, F. exxvi
413.
Chandawil 219. 236.
Charounah 207.
Chatb 234.
Chatby-les-Bains 25.
el-Chawachnah 197.
Cheblanga 181.
Chedniouh 193.
Chemmis 220.
Chenoboskion 244.
Cheops, see Kheops.
Cherbine 175.
(hibine el-Kanater 170.
Chine 32.
ChosroesHI. cxiii. 1.5.
Choua 173.
Christianity, Oriental
liv.
— , Beginnings of ex.
Chronolog. Tables xcix.
Circumcision xeiii.
Claudius I. ex. exxxviii.
870.
— U. cxi.
Cleopatra (Queens) cviii.
eix. exxxviii.
Climate Ixxvi.
Columns, Egyplian clviii.
Commiidus cxi. exxxix.
Companions xiv.
Constantine the Great
cxii. 260.
Constantius cxii.
Consulates xx.
Contra-Latopolis 343.
Ombos 352.
Convevances xvii.
Cook & Son xiv. 201. 384.
Coptic Convents liv. '.220.
221. 224. 225 343.
■ Worship 107. liv.
■ Writing cxxxi.
Copts liv.
Cornelius Gallus ex.
Cotton, Cultivation of
Ixxiii. Ixx. Ixxiv. 416.
432. 433.
Cow Goddesses cxlii.
Crocodile Grotto of Ma-
'abdeh 219.
— Lake 186.
Crocodiles, Graves of
cxli. 219. 333. 352.
Crocodilopolis (Gebelein)
333
Arsinoe 192. 195.
Cromer, Lord cxxiv.
Crops Ixxiii.
Cush 385.
Cussse 218.
Custom House xv.
Customs, Mohammedan
xciii.
Cynopolis 207.
Cyril cxii. 15.
ed-Daba' 29.
Daba.biyeh(El-Dabaibah)
333^
Dabarosa 411.
Dabbeh 222.
Dabeh, Island of 413.
ed-Dabeh 222.
Dubod 387.
Dcrdalus Shoal 424.
Da^ash 420.
Dahabiyehs 204.
Dahshur 166.
Dakahliveh, Province of
xivii. 173.
Dakhleh, Oasis of 382.
xlvii.
Dakin Island 433.
Dakkeh 395.
Damanhur 31.
ed-Damer 421.
Damietta (Dumyat) 175.
Dancers, Female xxvii.
Danfiq 250.
Daphnae 185.
Daraw (Darau) 341.
Darb el-Hamzawi (el-
Melek) 217.
Darius I. cvi. cxxxvi.
182. 381.
— II. cvi.
Date Palms Ixxv.
Davis, Th. 298.
Davison 126. 131.
Dead, Books of the 284.
— , Gods of the cxlviii.
, Judgment of the
cxlviii.
Debba 420.
Debeira (Debiera) 411.
Debod 387.
Dechachah 207.
Dechna 222.
Decius cxi. cxxxix. 14.
Defra 33.
Dehmit (Dehmiel) 388.
Deinocrates 12.
ed-Deir 234.
— , Fort of 382.
Deir Abu Bshoi (near
Sohag) 220.
(Wadi Natriin)
32.
Hennes 210.
Makar 32.
— el-Abvad 220.
— el-'Adra 22U.
— el-Ahmar 220.
— Anba Matteos 343.
Musa 243.
Sama'an 360.
Shenuda 220.
— el-Bahri 299.
— el-Bakara 226.
— el-Ballas clxi.
— Baramus 32.
— el-Bersheh 210.
— Bosra 235.
— el-Bukir 226.
— el-Gabrawi 219.
— Gebel it-Teir 226.
— el-Hadid 2.S6.
— el-koseir 231.
— Mar Antonios 226.
— Mari Boktor 224.
Girgis 224.
— Mawas 211.
— el-Medineh 316.
— el-Mel ak (near Girgeh)
221.
(near NaUadeh) 224.
Moes 211. ■
— Rifeh 234.
— es-Salib 224.
— esh-Shelwit 330.
INDKX.
445
Deir es-Sitteh Damianeh
243.
— es-Suryan 32.
Deiriit 218.
— e«h-Shepif 318.
Deities, Egyptian cxlix.
cliii.
Dekernes 174.
Delingat 32.
Demid 404.
Demirdash (Demerdache)
120.
Demotic \Vi-itin<; cxxxi.
Dendera 244.
-, Zodiac of 259.
Dendur 393.
ed-Denfik 250.
Derr 400.'
Dervi.shes xci.
Derweh 211.
Desert, the lxi.\. Ixxviii.
Ueshasheh 20T. 193.
DesUna 222. 24'i.
Desuk 32
Diarb-Negm 17J.
Dibeireh 411.
Difinu (DifiQo) 193.
Dikkeh clxxxi.
Dimei (Dimay) 196.
Dimishkin 19'3.
Dimri 38S.
Dink a Negroes 434.
Diocletian cxi. IB. 3^6.
Diodorus .xlix. '2S6. 306
Dionysias 197.
Diospolis Magna 254.
— Parva 244.
Dira' ii.
Dirgham cxvi.
Dirhem ii.
Dirkeh clxxxiii. clxxxv
Dirr 400.
Disbna 222.
Diwan 400.
Dofannu 103.
Dom 3i3.
Doniitian ox. cxxxix. 245
Dongola, Province of 415
— el-'Agiiza 420.
— Dialect Ix.
Donkeys xviii.
Doseh xcvi.
Dragoman.'! xxv
Drah Abu'l Keg.';
Dronkeh 234.
ed-Dueig 377.
ed-Dueim 433.
Duleib Hill 435.
Dum Palm Ixxvi.
Dum^at 175.
Durka'a clxxxv.
Dwellinj: Houses.
clxxxiii.
39 204.
a 283.
.\rab
Dwelling Houses, Kgyp-
tian clxi.
Dyes Ixxiv.
Dynasties xcviii.
Earle, Gen. 419. 16.
Eai'u cslviii.
Ebchawai 192. 196.
Ebe, Tomb of (El-Asaslt)
305.
— , Tomb of (Gebel Mo
rag) 219.
Ebers, G. 125.
Ebgig 193.
Ebnub 232.
Kb.'ihuai 192. 196
Edfina 31. 32.
Edfu 343. 337.
Edku 30.
— . Lake 30.
Edwards, Amelia 408
Edweh (Edwab) 191. 193.
Egypt, Area and Sub-
divisions of xlvi.
— , History of xcviii.
— Exploration Fund 300
304.
Egyptians, Origin of the
xlviii.
Kbi 245.
Eileithviaspoli.s 333.
'Ein e=h-Shems 120.
Ekb-en-Aton cii.
Ekhet-Aton 211.
Elephantine 357.
F.llesiveh 402.
Embabeh 79 143. 32.
Emerald Mines 377.
Eme-wet cl.
Empire, the Ancinit
xcix.
— , the Middle c.
— , the New ci.
Emset cl.
Emunezeb, Tomb of 311.
Enchorial Writing cxxxi.
Enei, Tomb of 216.
Enet 245.
Enher-mo.se, Tomb I if 221
Enhuret cxl. cl.
Enit 342.
Enkh-me-llor, Tomb n
lb2.
Eune. Tumb of 312.
Entebbe 43G.
Entef c. cxxxiii.
oker. Tomb of 313.
Epei. Tomb of 216.
Epepi cxxxiii.
Epet cl. 264.
Esowet 254.
Epu 220.
Equipment xjv.
Eratosthenes 355.
Erbkam 125.
Ergamenes 366. 395.
Eri-bems-nufer cl. 366.
Erkowit 426.
Erment 332. 341.
Ert-Har-erow cvi.
Eset, Tomb of 320.
Esneh (E'^na) 342. 333.
Espelut 88. 422.
Esse cx.xxiii.
Est-em-kheb 207.
Ethiopia 3=15.
Etlidem 209.
Etsa (Faivum) 193.
— (Upper Eiypt) 203.
Etu, Tomb of 222.
Euhemeria 198.
Europeans Ixii.
Eutychians Iv.
Ews-os cl.
Expenses xiii.
Eve cii. 221.
— , Tombs of 2LG. 298.
'Ezbeh xlvii.
'Ezbet Mattar 193.
— en-Nakhleh 120.
— ez-Zeitun 120.
Ezekher-Amun 387.
Fachen 207.
Fademineh 193.
Faied 181.
Faiyum, the 190.
Fakir xci.
Fakus 172.
— Canal 171. 172.
Fant 207.
Faniis clxxxi.
Faou 222.
Farafra, Oasis of 379.
xlvii.
Farag cxviii. 45. 112.
Faras 411.
Fareskur (Farascour) 175.
Far' el-Gharbi 30.
Farkha Canal 20.
Farm Produce Ixxiv.
Farrik 404.
Farshut 222.
Fa?hi Shoya 434.
Fashn 207.
Fashoda 434.
Faskiyeh clxxxiv.
Fasts, Moslem xcvi.
Fatba Ixxxvii. 50.
Fatimites cxv.
Fan 222. 244.
el-Fawakhir 375.
Fayid 181.
Feddan ii.
Fellahin Ii.
el-Ferdan 179. 186.
446
INDEX.
Feshn 207. 225.
Festivals, Moslem xcv.
Fez 47.
Fidimin 193.
Fikh Ixxxvi.
Fleming 56.
Forkos 193
Fortilied Structure."!,
Arab clxxxiii.
— — , Kgvptian clxii.
Fort Nasr" 436.
Fountains clxxxii.
Fraas, E. 372. 375.
French Expeditimi cxx,
126. 180. 266. 284. 288,
298.
— Residents Ixiii.
Fresh Water Canal 180,
188.
Fruit Trees Ixxv.
Fumm el-Buhiyeh 172.
173.
— es-Safuriyeh 172. 173
Funerals xi'iii.
Fung Arabs 422.
Furkundi 404.
Fustat, 44.
Gabbari 26.
Gahrat ed-Oaira :!76.
Ga]lienu.<! cxi. I'l.
Callus, C. Cornelius ex,
256.
Ganibela 436.
(;3.mi' clxxx.
Gara, Oasis of 378.
Garadu 1''3.
(iarstang, I'rof. 2-'l. 422
Garstiii, Sir W. 232. 372
Gautier 127.
Gazelle lliver 43'>.
Geb, see Keli.
Gebadsei Ivii.
Gebeit 425.
Gebcl Abu Foda 231.
— Abu Hasar 215.
— Abu Ku' 374.
* — Abu Shega 337.
— Abyad 377.
— Addeh 410.
— el-Ahmeir 115.
— Ahmed Agha 434.
' Taher 181.
— el-Amira 435.
— Arashkol 433.
— Auli 433.
— Avveibed 181.
— Barkal 419.
— Daghaniyeh 375.
— Dukhan 373.
Gebelein (Sudan) 434.
— (Upper Egypt I 333.
Gebel Eliri 435.
Gebel Fatireb 373.
— Garra 362.
— Geneifeb (Geneffeh)
181.
— Gerri 423.
— Ghilrib 423.
— Ghennt'ima (Gennib-
ma) 382.
— Giyushi 116.
— Hamata 877.
— el-Hammam 352.
— Hayati 395.
— Homr 376.
— Karara 225.
— el-Karn 373.
Katherin 421.
pl-Khasbab 118.
— Kurknr 362.
— Kurneh 219.
— Kurtunos 362.
— Lado 436.
— Mandara 433.
— Marag 219.
— Jlaryam 180.
— Jlokattam 116.
— jro.s'baghir 37li.
— cl-M6ta 379.
— JIugef 377.
— Musa 424.
— Nuhas 375.
— er-Raba 189.
— Itekbam 235.
— Serbal 424.
— Sheikh Embarak 225.
el-Haridi 236.
— Sheimet. el-Wah 387.
— Slieroneh 343.
— Silsileh 3^8.
— Soterba 424.
— Surgham 431.
— Surkab 431.
— Tarif 244.
— et-Teir 226.
— TeA 424.
— et-Tib 189.
— Tukh 236.
— Tara 167.
— ilmm Shoniar 424.
— 'Uweiliid 181.
— Wal(if 376.
— Zubara 377.
Gedideh 382.
Geiger 411.
Geili 423.
Gemmei 413.
Gemmeizeh 174.
Geneifeb (Gcncffeb) 181.
Geneineh 403.
Genoa 4. 6.
Geographical Notice xlvi.
Geologiial Notice Ixviii.
f^erf-Husein 394.
Germanicus ox.
Germans Ixiii.
(^eta cxxxix.
el-Geteina 433.
el-Gezireh 399.
Gezireh (Gezeireb) 341.
362.
(Sudan) 432.
Geziret Abu Ras 402.
Ana3 el-Wogiid 364.
— Assuan 357.
Behig 232.
el-Bibeh 225.
— Faras 411.
— el-Uawata 231.
Ibri'm 402.
— el-Kurn 19li.
Kurteh 397.
el-Mandara 231.
— el-Melek 413.
— Rod a 105.
SLaruna 225.
Ghabat 243.
— el-'Arab 436.
el-Gharak li)3.
Gharb-As'suan 361.
Gharbiyeh, Province of
33. xlvii.
(Uiawazi xxvii.
Ghazal 29.
(ihaziyehs x.xvii.
Ghazzali xci.
Gheit en-Na.sara 177.
Gherlianeyat 29.
el-Gbeta 374.
el-Ghorayeli 235.
el-Ghuri cxix. 59. 116.
Gianaclis 2i).
(diggings 436.
Gildeh 211.
Giraffe River 435.
Girgawiveh Canal 236.
Girgeh (Girga) 221. 23(i.
— , Province of 219. xlvii.
Girsheh 39 1.
Girt as 383.
el-Gisr 186.
Gizeh 80.
— , Province of 80. xlvii.
— , Pyramids ol 123.
Glymenopoulos 26.
Godaieda 181.
Gods, Egyptian cxlix.
cliii.
Gohar cxv. 44. 55.
Golenishetr 376.
Gondokoro 436.
Gordon, Gen. cxxiv. 427.
428. 43,3.
Gorst, Sir 1']. cxxv.
Goshen 180.
Gosu 218.
dovernorates xlvii.
Goz Abu Gum'a 434.
INDKX.
447
Gozeh xxvi.
Graf, Th. 193.
Greeks Ixii.
Grenfell, B.P. 197.198.207.
— , Lord 358.
C'Ubat cxxiv.
el-Gudhi 387.
Guemmezeh 174.
Guerga 221. 236.
Haditli Ixxxv.
Madra 20.
Hadrian cxi. oxxxlx. 14.
209. 250. 330. 331. 369.
lla'^gi cxviii.
Hagn-Kandil 211.
el-Hakim cxv. 77.
Hakor cvii.
el-Halahiyeh 225.
Haifa 411.
— , Provinc of 415.
Halfayeh 423.
Haniiimiyeh 235.
Hamburg & .Anglo-.Ameri-
can Kile Co. xiv. 202.
3S4.
el-IIamidat 223.
Hamilinn 126.
Ilammam 29
Uaininaiiiat Mts. :i74.
— Kubb.'h 120.
Haiiinul Karari 174.
el-Ilanira 232.
Ilanbalites Ixxxvi.
ilandliub 425.
Handicrafts, Egyplian
clxxvii.
Hanefites Ixxxvi.
H:inefiyeh clxxxi.
lUipi (guardian-deity) cl.
— CNile-'od) oxlii. 848.
H:.p-7.efaV, Tnmb „i 234.
Harakhte cxliii. cl. cliii.
120. 237. 398. 399. 400.
404.
t'l-Haram el-Kaddali 205
— esh-Showwaf 16lj.
el-H.iratra 377.
Harem clxxxiii.
Hareiiiheb oii. cxxxiv.
257. 279. 2-0. 3HS. 410
— , Tomb of King 298.
— . Tomb of (General)
312.
Harendotes cl. cliv. 370.
Hare Nom.^ 209. 210. 231
llaren.sniiphis cl. 366.
I.Iarit 198.
Har khentekbtai cl.
Harkbuf. Tomli nf MO.
Ilarniachi.'! cl 13').
Harmais, see Hareiiiheb.
Har-mcrti 172.
Harmose. Tomb of 337.
Har-net-yotf, see Haren-
dotes.
Haroeris 223. 349.
Harper's Tomb 289.
Ilarpocrates cxlvii. cl.
366.
Harris 219.
Har-sem-tewe (Harsom-
tu.s)_cl. 245. 344.
Harsiesis cl.
Harvest Ixxiii.
Harwa, Tomb of 305.
Ilasabiyeb 211.
Hasan. 8ultan cxvili. 66.
Hashish xxvi. Ixxiv.
Hatbor cxl. cxli. cxlii.
cxliii. cxlvi. cl. cliv.
205. 218. 226. 245. 302.
30,1. 3Ui. 344. 349. 370
409.
■ I'dlumns clxi.
Hatsbep>ut cii. cxxxiv.
227. 273. 279. 299. 328.
412. 411.
, Tomb of 2r6.
el-H;ivvauidivt"b 143.
Hawara 193! 194.
— , Pyramid ,<( 19'l.
Hawaiet 'Kdlan ('E'.;lan)
■ 191.
— el-Makta' 194.
Hawariyeh 28.
el Hawata 231.
el-Hawatkeh 232.
eI-Hawa\vish 221.
Hawi xxvii.
Headquarters 380.
Health Resorts xxi.
Hebenn 208.
Hebet 175.
Hegira l.vxxiv.
el-H.'gz 23?.
Hehiyeh (Hehia) 172.
Heik^l, the 109.
Hekew 261.
Heke-yeb, Tomb of 3.59.
Helena, Empress 226. 343,
Heliodorus 284.
Heliopolis cxlv. 120.
— Oasis 119. xxii.
el-Hella 343.
pl-Helleh 2.5(1.
Helniiyeh 120.
llehvan 167. xxii.
Hemali 4S.
Heml xciii.
Hemp (hashish) xxvi
Ixxiv.
Henen-nesut 206
Henna Ixxiv 47.
Heracleopolis 206.
Heracles 206.
Heraclius cxiii. 15.
Herhnsh 376.
Herihor civ. 262.
Herishef cxl. cl. 206.
Hermonthis 332.
Hermopolis 209.
— Parva 31.
Hermupolis 173.
Herodotus cvi. cxlix. 121.
124. 131. 145. 171. 180.
182. 190. 193. 220. 364.
422.
HeroiMiolite Bav 182.
Hesa 387.
Hesfun 333.
el-Hesseh 387.
Hetep-Senwosret 196.
Het-ne>ut 207.
Het-nub, Quarries of 218.
1-Hibeh 207. 225.
Hibet 382.
Hibis 382.
Hicks Pasha cxxiv. 433.
Hierakonpolis 337.
Hierasykaminos 397.
Hieratic Writing cxxxi.
ierOEclyphics cxxvi.
Hijra Ixxxiv.
el-Hilleb 343.
Hiliet 'Abbas 433.
— Duleib 4.35.
History of Egypt xcviii.
Hittites, War with the
243. 258. 271. 272 306.
407.
Hnes 206.
el-Hoch 337.
Hogarth, D. O. 197.
H<imer 255.
Hophrah, see .\ pries.
Hor, Tomb of 167.
Horbeil 172.
Hoius cxl. cxli. cxlii.
cxliii. cxlv. cl. 31. 44.
175. 236. 237. 245. 3i3.
344.
Hosein 54. xcvi.
Hosh clxxxiii. clxxxv.
el-H6sh 337.
Hotels xviii
Hou (Hu) 244.
Hunt 198. 207.
Huwa xxvii.
iluve. Tomb of (Kurnet
M"urrai) 3IS.
", Tumb of (Tell el-
Amiirna) 213.
Hydreunia Trajani 373.
Hyksos, the ci.
Ilypatia cxii. 15
Hypostvle Hall clxiv.
Hypselis 235.
Hypselite Kome 219. 235,
448
INDKX.
Ibrahim Bey cxx.
— Pasha cxxii. cxxi. 115,
402.
Ibrahimiyeh (near
Alexandria) 25.
— (near Zakazik) 172.
— Oanal 20&. 218. 232.
Ibrim fibreem) 402.
Ibshawai 192.
Ichneumon 20G.
Igma' Ixxxv.
Ikh'ihidides cxv.
lllahun 194. 193.
'Ilwaniyeh Dervishes
xcii.
Imam xcii.
— Shafi'i Ixxxvi. 115.
Imesib, Tomb of 313.
Imhntep oxUu. cli. 304
366.
Immortality, Egyptian
doctrine of cxlvii.
Inaros cvi.
Inshas 171.
Intercourse with Orient-
uls xxiv.
Inti, Tomi) of 207.
Ipsambul 404.
Irrigation Ixxi. Ixv.
Iseum 174.
Isis cxliii. cxlvi. oxlvii
cli. cliv. 131. 175. 197,
198. 237. 250. 330. 855,
366. 397.
Iskanderieh 11.
el-Islam Ixxix.
— , Doctrine.'! of Ixxxiii,
Isma'il. Khedive cxxii.
xlvi. 33. 46. 52. 64. 66,
— (son of Blohammed
Ali) 387. 422.
Isma'iliyeh (Ismailiai
179.
— Canal 180.
Istabl 'Antar (Assiut) 234
— — (Benihasan) 227.
Isthmus of .Suez 182.
Ixviii.
Itai el-BarOd 32.
Italians Ixiii.
Itang 436.
Itinerarium Antonini
376.
lyun Musa (Suez) 189.
Ja'alin, the 423.
.Tacobites Iv.
.Teddah 424. 377.
Jemnuti 174.
.T^quier 127.
Jews Ixii.
Jidda 424. 377.
Jinn Ixxxix.
John of Jerusalem, King
176.
— of Lycopolis 233.
Jomard, E. F. 12G.
Joseph's Canal, see Bahr
Yusuf.
Jubal, Straits of 424.
Jugglers xxvii.
Julian cxii. 14.
Jar River Mouth 436.
Justice, Courts of xx.
Justinian cxiii. 15. 365.
Juvenal 354. 331.
Ka cxlix.
Ka''a clxxxv. clxxxiv.
el-Ka'a 424.
el-Kab 333.
Kabbabish Beduins 420.
430.
Kabd 402.
Kabileh Ivii.
Kabushiyeh 421.
Kadesh, Battle of 258. 271.
3(6. 307.
Kadiriyeh Dervishes xcii.
Kafr Ahmar 205.
— ''Awaneh 32.
— el-Battil<h 175.
— Daud 32.
— ed-Dawar 31.
— Hamza 171.
— e'l-Haram 138.
— el-Kahragelleh 223.
— Sakr 172.
— Sarem 174.
— esh-Sheilih 175.
— ez-Zaiyat 33.
Kaft 223.
Kafiir cxv.
Kagera Eiver Ixiv.
Kagug (El-Kagog) 33S.
Kaha 34.
Kahf el-'Asakir 234.
el-Kahira 43. 45.
Kaiiun 196.
Kainepolis 222.
Kais 207.
KaitBevcxix. 73. 113.176.
Kaka 434.
Kalabsheh 389.
Kalamsha 193.
Kalamun 382.
Kalandul 231.
Kalaun cxvii. 75.
Kalin (Kalline) 32. 175
Kalyub 34. 121.
Kalyubiyeh, Province of
■ 34. xlvii.
Kamariyeh clxxxvi.
el-Kamil, Malik cxvii,
173. 176.
Kamlin 432.
Kamula 250.
KanaiSj Pass of 378.
Kanayat 171. 172.
Kandil clxxxi.
el-Kannan 343.
Kantar ii.
el-Kantara 185. 179.
Kant,irl72.
el-Kara 380.
el-Karaba 421.
Karanis 197.
Karanog 402.
Kareima 4L9.
Karit el-Musabberiu 370.
itarm Abuni 28.
Karnak 262.
Table of Kings 275.
Temple of Amon 265
— of Epet 264.
— of Khons 262.
— of Mont 277.
— of Mut 280.
— of Osiris 276.
— of Ptah 277.
— of Ramses II. 276.
III. 267. 281.
— of Sethos II. 266.
— ofThutmosi8m.275.
Ka.^abeh ii.
Kasasin 181.
Kased Canal 33.
Kashta civ.
el-Kasr (Bahriyeh Oasis)
3*79.'
— (Dakhleh Oasis) 382.
— (Kasr e.s-Saiyad) 244.
Kasr ei-'Aguz 330.
— 'Ain Mustafa Kashif
382.
ez-Zaiyan 382.
— Anas el-Wogud 364.
— el-Banat (Faiyum) 198.
— — (near Lakeita) 374.
— Dush 382.
Kasreh Canal 237.
Kasr el-Gebali 193.
— el-Ghueida 382.
— Ibrim 402.
— Karun 197.
— el-Kayasereh 26.
— es-Sagha 197.
— es-Saivad 244.
'-, Tombs of 222.
Kassala 421.
— , Province of 415.
Kassassine 181.
Katta 32.
Katteb 402.
Kau 235.
Kavasses xx.
Kawa 434.
Kawamil 221.
Keb cxlii. cxliii. cxlv. cli .
INDEX.
449
Kebb-snewf cli.
Kebtoyew 2'23.
Ke-gem-ni, Mastaba of
162.
el-Kei9_207.
Kemare-Hatshepsut, see
Hatshepsut.
Kemose ci.
Keneh (Kena) 222. 244.
■ 372.
— , Province of 223. xlvii
Keniseh 435.
Kenuz Dialect Ix.
Kerdaseh 139.
Kerma 420.
Kerreri 431.
Kertassi 38S.
kbabbash cvi. 148.
Kha-em-bet. Tomb of 310
Khaiyal ed-Dill xxvii
Kbamasin Ixxviii.
Kbamweset 147.
— , Tomb of 320.
Kbandak 420.
Kbankah 121.
Kbans 60.
Kbaregites xcii.
Khar^eh, Oasis of 379.
xlvii.
— (town) 3S0.
Ehslrgeh Junction 222.
380.
Khartum (Lower Nubia)
3S9'.
— (Sudan) 426.
— , Province of 415.
— North 423.
Kbashm Khalil 197.
Kbataana 172.
Khatatbeh 32.
Ebatmiyeb Dervishes
xcii.
cl-Khattara 341. 352.
elKha'wi 343.
el-Kha/.an 3(i3.
Khefre. see Khephren.
Kbf.nit 338.
Kliensumes, Tomb of 315.
Kbente-Amentiu cxlviii.
237.
Kbeute-Min''220.
Khenusew, Tomb of 360.
Kheops xcix. cxxxiii. 127.
171. ■
Khephren xcix. cxxxiii.
131. 135. 171.
— , Granite or Valley
Temple of 13.i.
Khepre cli.
el-Khcrbeb 243.
Kbere-obe 44.
Kheti. Tomb of (Assiut)
234.
Kheti, Tomb of (Beni
hasan) 228.
el-Khewa H43.
Khizam 224. 250.
RhizandarivchCanal236.
Kbmunu 209.
Khnemhotep, Tombs of
22-!. 230.
Khnum c.xli. cxlii. cli
cliv. 197. 235. 342.
el-Khoka 305.
Khons cli 257. 262.
-Hor 349.
Khonsu, Tomb of 315.
Khor el-Akaba 362.
Khorbeta 172.
Khor Shambat 431.
Khufu, see Kheops.
KhuV, Tomb of 359.
Khumarawelh cxiv. 44.
Kbunes. Tomb of (As-
suan) 359.
— . Tomb of (Kom el-
Ahmar) 209.
Kibla clxxxi.
Kiman Paris 192.
Kings, Cartiiuches of
Egyptian cxxxiii.
— , Lists of xcix. 87. 241
275.
— , Tombs of clxviii et
seq. 284.
Kio 435.
Kirbekan 419.
Kiro 436.
Kism xlvii.
Ki.sumu 436.
Kisweb xcvi.
Kitchener,Vi3(;ouut cxxv.
421. 427. 431.
Kitchener's Islanil 358.
Kitchens, Public 48.
Kiyas Ixxxvi.
klOber, Gen. 4G. 120.
Klysma 188.
Kobosb 393.
Kodok 434
Kohafa 194.
Kohl li.
Koiosna 2<i7 226
ICom'.Abu Radi 1!)1.
— el-Ahmar (near El
Kab) 337.
(near Minyeh) 208
( near Shar'una) 207
— el-Akhdar 123.
— el-Atrib 34.
— Eshkaf 219.
— Paris 192.
— el-6izeh,31.
— el-Hamadab"32.
— el-fleitan 332.
— 'Imran 373.
Kom Isliqau 219.
Kom el-Kasbab 138.
— el-Kefara 208.
— el-Kharyana 192.
el-Kolzum 188.
— Om'ho 349. 341.
— et-Terban 30.
— Ushim 1&7.
Konaisseh 32.
Konosso 371.
Koptos 223. 372.
Koran Ixxxix. Ixxxv. 50.
65.
Korashiyeh 174.
Kordofan 415. 433. xlvi.
Koror 363.
Korosko 398.
Korti 420.
Ko-seir 375.
el-'Amarna 218.
Kosh 385.
Kosheisheh 20fi.
kosbtamneh 395.
Kiisti 433. 434.
Kotur 32. 33. 174.
koubbeh-les-Bains 120.
Kous 223.
Koz Rejab 421.
Kuban 397.
Kubaniyeh 352.
Kubbet el-Hawa 360.
kuboshab 393.
Kubri Kubbeh 120.
Kue3na'34.
kuft 223. 372.
kuhafeh lf4. 193. 195.
el-Kula 343.
Kulla Manufactories 110.
223.
Kummeh 414.
Kuri 395.
Kurkur, Oasis of 362.
Kurna 282.
kurnet Mnrrai (Mar'ai)
■ 318.
Kurn el-Gennah 382.
el-Kurru 420.
Knrsi clxxxi.
— Paraxon 193.
Kurteh 397.
kurudati xxvii.
kuR 223.
el-Ku.siyeh 218.
Ku'aruf Pasha cxxi.
Kustol 410
el-Kusur 253.
Kuftai) clxxxii.
Kysis 382.
Labvrinth, the 196.
I. ado 43H.
Lagin 71.
el-Lahiin, see Ulahun.
450
INDEX.
Lakeita 374.
Language, Arabic xxviii
Lafopolis 342.
Laurens 26.
Law, Mohammedan
Ixxxv.
— Courts XX.
Lebbakh Tree Ixxv.
Le Brun 167.
Le Cap 179.
Legrain, G. 266.
Le-hone 194.
Leilet el-Kadr xcvi.
— el-Mi'rag xcvi.
— en-Nnkta xcvii.
el-Leisia 402.
Leontonpolis (Tell Mnk-
dam) 174.
— (Tell el-Yebudiveh)
171.
Lepere, .T. B. 183.
Lepidotonpolis 221.
Lepsius, R. 125. 126. 140.
193. 195. 376. 420.
Lesseps.Ferd. de 183. 178
Letopolis 32.
Letters xix.
I.eukos Linien 375.
Levantines Ixi.
1-ibvan Desert Ixx. liiO.
378.
F,isht 205.
Livyan clxxx.
Lotus ColuiiiD,^ olix.
Louis IX. cxvii. 173. 176,
Lucian 14.
Lul 434.
Luxor 251. 2'24. xxii.
Lycopolis 233.
cl-MaTibdeh 219.
el-Ma'adi 167.
el-Ma'adiyeh 30.
Maaaaret Donda 193.
Maat cli. civ.
Ma'azeh Bedviins Iviii
Habwalas 373.
Mabvyalat Kbur el-Gbir
376.
— Has A.sfar 3T6.
Macrianus cxi.
Macrinus cxi.
Madia 30.
Madiq (Madiaki 397.
Maghagha 207. 225.
el-Mabamid 333.
Mabariq 380.
Jlaharraka 397.
el-Mahasi Dialect Ix.
el-Mahatta 363.
Mabdi,' tbe, see Moham-
med .\hmcd.
Mahmal xcv.
el-Mahmudi cxviii.
Mahmudiyeh Canal 15. 12.
30. 32. 122.
Hahsameh ISO.
Mahu, Tomb of 215.
Mak'ad clxxxiv.
Makrizi 226.
el-Biaks 332.
Maleig Road 432.
Malek 436.
Malik ibn Aua.<! Ixxxv.
Malikites Ixxxvi.
Malkata 330.
Malki 39S.
Mallawi 231.
Maltese Residents Ixiii.
Mameluke Dynasty cxvii
Mammisi , see Birth
Houses.
Ma'mun cxiv. 105.
Ma'milr xlvii.
Mamura 30.
el-Manasbi 32. 121.
Mancbiet es-Sadr 120.
Mandara clxxxiv.
cl-Mandara 30.
Mandalis 366. 389.
Manetho xcviii. 174.
Manfalut 218. 231.
Mansafis' 20!l.
Mansura 173. 175.
Mansuriyeh 349.
el-Man.sur Kalailn cxvii.
75. ■ ■
— Lagin 71. 73.
el-Maragha 219. 236.
Marah 186. 189.
.Marcian cxiii. 386.
Marcus Aurelius cxi.
cxxxix. 14. 236.
Mareia 27.
Mareoti?, Lake 27.
1-Marg 121.
Maria 394.
Mariette, A. 80. 81. 135
147 149. 238. 283. 300.
Markaz xlvii.
— esh-Sharikeh 380.
Mark 03 388.
Marriages, Moslem xciii.
Marseilles 1. 2 4-6.
Ma'sara 167. 170.
Ma',5aret-Dudeh 193.
Mashrabiyeh clxxxv.
Masbtut Caual 171.
Masmas 403.
Masper'o. Sir G. xlix. 80.
81. 127. 135. 205.
Masr el-'Atika 44.
el-Fustat'44.
— el-Gedideh 119.
— el-Kadimeh 44.
el-Eahira 43.
Ma.^taba clxviii.
Mastabat el-Fara'on 166.
Matai 207.
el-Mata'neb (Matana)333.
34 1:
el-Matanyeh 205.
Matariyeb (Heliopolis)
120.
— (Lake Menzaleh) 174.
179.
Matar Tares 193.
el-Matra 219.
Matuga 413.
Maximinus cxii.
Mazalweh 220.
Mazghuna 205.
Mazloum Pacbii 26.
Measures ii.
Mecca 424.
— , Pilgrimage to
Ixx.xviii. xcv.
Medamut 281.
Medical Hints xxiii.
Jledik 397.
Medinet el-Faiyum 191.
— Gurob 194.
— Habu 322.
Medreseh clxxx.
Mehalleh Kebir, or
— el-Kubra 174. 33.
MehalletDamanal73. 174.
— iugak 174.
— Kuh 174. 32.
el-Meharrak 219. liv.
Meheridi 39"7.
Meherik 380.
Meht-w'esekhet 323.
Mei, Tomb of 216.
Meida clxxxi.
Sleidum, Pyramid of 205.
Mei-her-peri, Tomb nf
297.
Meir 218.
Meket-Aton 217.
el-Mekheirif 421.
Mekhu. Tomb of 359.
Meks 26.
Mellawi 210. 231.
Melton 167.
Melut 434.
Mem 402.
Memnon cii. 330.
— , Colossi of 330.
— , So-called Tomb of
288.
Memnonium 238. 237.
Memphis 143.
Mena House Hotel xxii.
36. 123.
Menchah 221.
Mencheres, see Mykeri-
nos.
el-Menchieh 221.
INDEX.
451
Mendes 172.
Mendesian Arm n( the
Nile 185. Ixvii.
Mendisheh 379.
Menes xcix. cxxxiii. 143.
— , Tombof 224.
Menkewre, see Mykevi-
nos.
Jlen-kheper-re 207.
BIen-kheper-re-.seneb,
Tombs of 311. 313.
Menne, Tomb of 313.
pl-Menshiyeh 221. 236.
3Ient-em-het, Tomb of
305.
?.lentu-lier-khop?lief,
Tomb of (Bibuu el-
Muliik) 296.
Meniu-her-khopshef,
Tomb of (Drah .Vbu'l
Negga) 283.
Mentubotep (Kings) c.
cxxxiii.
— III. 276. 304.
— III., Tomb of 305.
— IV. 304.
Menuf 33.
Jlenufiveh, Province of
33. xivii.
Meny, ^ee Menes.
Menzaleh 174.
— , Lake 185.
9Ierenptab, see Amen-
ephthes.
Merenre c. cxxxiii. 16G
Mcreruka, Ma,«taba of 15'J .
e,l-Merg 121.
Mergheb 27.
:>reri-ke-re 234.
3Ieri-re, Tombs of 213.
214. _
Bleri-re Pepi, see PhiopsL.
Meris 341.
Meri-Teti 159.
Meriyeh 394.
Meroe 422.
Meroitic Writing cxx.xi
386.
Merowe 420.
Jlersa Imbarak 377.
Merwan II. cxiv. 206.
Merwaw 393.
Mesgid clxxx.
Mcsheikh 221.
el-Meshhed 387.
Meshra' er-B,ek 43ii.
Hctemmeb i2i.
Methusuphi8,<e« Merenre.
Metir 260.
JIetu.28l.
Mevlevis xcii. 71.
Mcx 26.
— Jonction 27.
Miebis, Tomb of 243.
Mihaiiditati xxvi.
Mibrab clxxxi.
Min cxl. cxlii. cli. civ
220. 223. 3u7. 325.
.Miua el-Kamh tSl.
Slinarets'clxxxii. 13. 66
Minat el-Wej 377.
Minbar clxxxi.
Minia (Winieh) 208.
cl-Minia 193.
Miniet el-Heit 193.
— Salameii 32.
el-Minsha 221.
Minyeh 208.
— , Province of 208.
xlvii.
Mir 218.
Mir-haniyeb Dervishes
xcii.
Mirgisseh 413.
Jlirsa Matruh 29.
— Umbarek"377.
Misbta 219.
Mi.'r el-Kabira 43.
M!t 'Ali'174.
— 'Assas 174.
— Berah 34.
— Dafer 174.
— Ghamr 174. 171. 173.
Mitirtaris 193.
Mil Rabineh 141
— Salsil 174.
— Sameniid 172.
— Yazid 181.
Mnevis Bull cxli. 121.
Jloeris, Lake 196. 190
Moez Canal 171.
:\ioghara 378.
Mohabbazi xxvii.
Mohammed Ixxxiv.
Mobammed Ahmed (the
Mahdi) cxxiv. xlvi.43a
431. 433. 434.
Mohammed .-Mi cxx. .\lvi
Ixv. 15. 27. 46. 68. 427
Mohammed Hey Abu
Dahab cxx. 5S.
— el-Ikhshid cxv.
-Moharrem xcv.
JIoMsat 337.
Mokattam Hills 116.
Mombasa 436.
Monasir Arabs 420.
.•1-Mondid 172.
Monct-Khufu 227.
Money ii. xiv. xv. xvi.
Mongolia 436.
— , Province of 415.
Moniha 349.
.Monophysites Iv.
Mons Claudiaiius 373.
— Porphyrites 373.
Mont cxlu. oli. 254. 277.
281. 332.
Montaza 30.
.Months, Moslem xxsix.
Morgan. .T. de 127. 142.
224 349.
Morgos 388.
Moses, Spring of (near
Cairo) 118.
— . Springs of (near
Suez) 189.
Jlosques clxxx.
Motiaa 219.
Moustapha Pacha 25.
Mouth of Gebel 435.
Muaiyad, El-Mahmndi
cxviii. 59.
el-Mu'alla 333.
Mua'ilet el-Khargeb 222.
380.
Mu'awia cxiv.
Mudir xlvii.
Mudiriyeh xlvii.
Muezzin Ixxxvii. clxxxii
Mufti Ixxxvi.
Muissat 337.
Mu'izz cxv 44 55.
Miilid en-Nebi xcv.
Mummies cxlix.
Munadi en-Nil xcvii.
Murad Bev cxx.
Murwau 393.
.Musauwarat 423.
Musicians, Arab xxvi.
Musmar 426.
el-Mu8ta'li cxvi.
el-Mustansir cxv.
.'lut cxlii. cxlvi. cli.
■J57. 280.
Mutmir 421.
Mutrak es-Selam 374.
.Mutiil 193.
Muweis Canal, or
Muwi.s Canal 171.
Mykerinos xcix. cxxxiii.
133.
My 08 Hormos 373.
Mysticism, Moslem xc.
Nabaroh 174.
Nadura 380. 381.
Naga 422.
Nag' ed-Deir 221.
- Hamadi 222. 244.
— e'sh-Shimeh 362.
Nahiyeh xlvii.
Nairobi 436.
Nakadeh 224. 250.
Nakhfileh 421.
Nakht. Tomb of (Beni-
hasan) 230.
-,■ Tomb of (Sbeikh'Abd
el-Kurna) 313.
452
INDEX.
L72.
Napata 419.
Naoles 1-4. 6.
Naqada 224.
Nashart 175.
en-Nasir cxvii 45. 70. 76
Nastesen 38'>.
Naucratis 32.
Naville, Prof. 171.
180 300.
Nawa 170.
Nazali Ganub 218.
Neb-Amun , Tombs
283.
Neb-em-yekhet, Tomb of
138
Nebesheh n2
Neb-lietepti-kbrot, Touii
of 167.
Nebireh (Npbeirab) 3'J
Nechesia 377
Necho cv. cxxxvi. 182.
Uefaret cvii.
Nefer-bew-Ptab.Tomb of
137.
Nefer-er-ke-re 142.
Neferhotep, Tomb
314.
Nefer-ke-re Pepi, see
Phiops II.
Nefer-sekheru, Tomb of
209.
Nefer-.ieshem-re, Tomb
of 162.
Nefertem cxli. cxliii. cli.
Kefi.sheh 180. 181.
Kefret-ere ci.
i^Tefret-ere Mi-en-Mut,
Tomb of 321.
■Negroes Ixi.
Nebi, Memorial Recess of
403.
Neith cxl. cxli. cxlii. cli
33. 342.
■Nekaw, see Necho.
Nekhab 333.
Nekhbevet cxl. cxli.
cxlv. cli. 333. 334. 335.
Nekben 337.
Nekhte-nebof, see Nek-
tanebos.
Iv'ekht-Har-ebbet, see
Nektanebes.
Nekht-Min, Tomb of 312.
Nektanebe.'f evil, cxx.xvi
Nerva ox. 245.
Nestorius 220.
Neternakht, Tomb of 230.
New Dongola 420.
1-Neweirat 209.
New Ileliopolis 119.
Newport Reefs 423.
Newt 254.
Nezleh-Beled 193.
Wadi 193.
Nicopolis 25. 13.
Nile, the Isiv.
— , the Blue Ixiv. 427.
— , the White Ixiv. 427.
435.
— , Arms of the Ixvii
— Festivals xcvii.
— , Inundation of the Ixiv.
— .Sources Ixiv. 370.
— Steamboats 201. 383.
417.
Nilometers 105. 329. 347.
357. 370.
Nimule 436.
Nitocris 323.
No (No-Amon) 254.
— , Lake 435.
Nomes xcviii.
Nuba Mountains, Pro-
vince of 416.
Nubia 384.
Nubians Ix. 384.
Nueirat 209.
Numbers, Tomb of 139
Nummulites 116.
Nun cxlii. cxlv.
Nilr ed-Din cxvi.
Nuri 420.
Nuserre c. cxxxiii. 140.
141.
Nut cxlii. cxliii. cxlv. cl.
Nyavarongo Ixiv.
Oases 378. 362. Ixx.
Oasis Junction 222. 380.
el-Obeid 433.
Obelisks clxiii. 121. 140.
264. 273.
Octavianus ex.
Ofeduineh (Ott'edunia)
397.
Oil Plants Ixxiv.
Okellas clxxxvi. 50.
Okka ii.
Old Cairo 106
171. 175. 277. 381
Nektanebos cvii. cxxxvi. I — Heliopolis 120
323. 329. 365. el-Omaied 29.
— II. 147. Omaiyades cxiv.
Nelson 30. Omar cxiii. 15.
Nepherites cvii. ()mbos (Kils) 224.
Nephthys cxliii. cli. civ.'— (Gebei Silsilehl 349
226. I'Omdeh xlvii.
Nero ex. cxxxix. lOmdurman 430.
On (Heliopolis) cxlv. 120.
— (Hermonthis) 332.
Onias 171.
Onnophris, see Wen-
nofre.
Onnos c. cxxxiii.
— , Pyramid of 165.
Onuris, see Rnburet.
el-Ordeb 420.
Orion cxlii.
Osiris cxl. cxliii. cxlviii.
cli. civ. 29. 147. 175.
2S7. 242. 243. 264. 276.
280.
Apis 147.
lOsmans xcix.
iOsorapis cxlvii. 147.
Osorkon I. civ. exxxv.
207. 268.
• II. 174.
■ III. 276.
Osymandyas 306.
'Othman cxiii.
Othoes, see Teti.
Ous.sime 32.
Oxyrhynchos 207.
Pachomius cxii. 222.
Painting, Egyptian
clxxv.
Palaces, Arab clxxxiii.
— , Egyptian clxii.
Palais de Koubbeh 120.
Palm Columns clx.
Palms Ixxv.
Panopolis 220.
Paotnuphis 395.
Papyrus Columns clix.
Paratonium 29.
Paser, Memorial Niche of
410.
Passports xv.
Pathyris 333.
Pau.sauias 284. 331. 378.
Peheri (Pehrai), Tomb of
335.
Pe-Hor 393.
Pekhet cxlvi. cli. 227.
Pelusiac Arm of the Nile
185. Ixvii.
Pelusium 186.
Pem.ie 207.
Penehse, Tomb of 214.
Pennet, Tomb of 402.
Pensions xix.
Pentaur, Epic of 272.
Pentu, Tomb of 214.
Pepi I. & II., see Phiops.
Per-Amun 398.
Atum 180.
Baste 171.
ehbet 174. '
hapi-n-On 44.
INDEX.
453
Per-llathor nebt Tepveh
205.
Peripteros clxiii.
Permezet 207.
I'er-Mont 332.
— -Ptah 394.
Perring 12G
Per-Selket 395.
Persians cvi. cxiii.
Per-Sopt 180.
Pe(r)-zoz 222.
Peser, Tomb of 313.
Peshetu, Tomb of 318.
Peteamenopet, Tomb ot
305.
Pete-ese 393.
Pete-ese. Tomb of 166.
Petesuchos 197.
Petpeh 203.
Petrie, Prof. Flinders 124.
J 26. 127. 143. 172. 185.
193. 194. 196. 205. 207.
212. 224. 243. 309.
Petrified Forests 118. 119.
139.
Petroniu.o 38G. 395.
Phaku.sa 180.
Pharbrethus 172.
Pharos, Island 13. 19.
Phatnitic Arm of the Nile
173. Ixvii.
Phbow 222.
Philadelphia 193.
Philse 364.
Philippus Arrhidoeui*
cvii. cxxxvi. 209. 274.
Philoteris 198.
I'hiops I. c. cxxxiii. 143.
166. 337. 387.
— II. c. cxxxiii. 166.
Phoenix csli.
Photography xiv.
Phrases, Arab xxsii.
Physician, Tomb of the
162.
Physicians xxiii.
Piankhl civ. cxxxvi. 144.
386.
Piaster xv.
Pi-beseth (Bubastis) 171.
Piseons 235.
Pi-lak (Pilakh) 364.
Pillars, Egvptiuu civil
Pinotem I.' civ. 262.
— II. 207.
Pithom 180.
— Stele 88.
Plan of Tour xiii.
Plantations Ixxv.
Plant Columns clviii
Plato 121.
Plinv'180. 255.
Plotinus 233. 14.
Plutarch 207.
P-neb-tewe 349.
I'nepherbs 197. 19-i.
Pococke 126.
I'olitical Notice xlvi.
I'olyiiamy Ixxxviii.
I'ompey cix. 16.
Pont de Koubbeh 120.
Popular Festivals xcv.
Population xlvii.
Port Florence 436.
— Ibrahim 188.
— Sa'id 177.
— Sudan 425.
— Taufik 188.
Post, Egyptian xix.
Prayers, Moslem lixxvii
I're-her-wnamf, Tomb of
320.
I rim is 402.
Prisse d'Avennes 250.
Probus cxi.
Pronaos clxiv.
Proto-Doric Columns
clvii.
I'rovinces of E!;ypt xlvii.
— of the Sudan 415.
P.-ammetichos (Psame-
lik) I. cv. cxxxvi. 33.
147. 185.
— 11. cv. Cxxxvi. 386.
— III. cvi.
Psamtik, Tomb of 166.
Psamuthis (Psbe - Mut)
cvii. 264.
Pselchis 395.
Psoi 221.
Psusennes civ. 131.
Pt:ih cxl. cxlii. csliii.
oslv. cl. clvi. 143. 145.
237. 277. 394. 404.
tahhotep,Mastaba of 163.
Ptah-nofni 194.
Ptahshepses, Jlastaba of
142.
Ptah-Soker, see Soker.
Tenen clii.
Ptolemais Hermiou 221.
Ptolemv I. Soter I. cvii.
cxxxvi. 12. 2U7. 221.
II. Philadelphus cvii.
cxxxvi 175. 192. 280. |
366. 377.
— III. Euep'-'etes I. cviii.]
cxxxvii. 262. 344. 355.
366.
IV. Philopator cviii.
cxxxvii. 278. 316. 344.
355. 366.
— V. Epiphanes cviii.
cxxvi. cxxxvii. 256.
36G.
VI. Pliilornetor cviii.
cxxxvii. 171. 236. 268.
316. 344. 370. 387.
Ptolemy VII. Eupator cix.
— VIII. cix.
— IX. Euergetes II.
Physkun cviii. cxxxvii.
264. 26S. 31G. 330. 335.
314. 348. 370. 395.
— X. Soter II. Latbvrus
cix. c.vx.xviii. 329.335.
341. 348.
— XI. Alexander I. cix.
344.
— XII. Alexander II. cix.
— XIII. Keos Dionysos
cix. 264. 349.
— XIV. cix. 12.
— XV. cix.
— XVI. Cffisar cix.
Punt (Pwenet) 223. 301.
Pylon.s clxiii.
Pvopi-nakht, Tomb of
360.
Pyramid, the Great 127.
, the Second 131.
, the Third 133.
of Hawara 194.
— of illahun 195
— of EI-Kula 313.
— of Meidum 205.
— of Jlerenre 166.
— of Nebka 140.
— of Nuserre 141.
— of Onnos 165.
— of Phiops I. 166.
— of Phiops II. 166.
— of Righa_140
— of Sehure 141.
— of Teti 163.
Pyramids, Construction
" 01 the clxis. 124.
— of Abu Roash 139.
— of Abusir 141.
— of Dahshiir 166.
— of Gebel Barkal 419.
— of Gizeh 123.
of El-Kurru 420.
of Lisht 205
of Meroe 422.
of Napata 420.
— of Nuri 420.
— of Tangassi 420.
— of Zawivet el-'Arvan
140.
— of Ziima 420.
ft. For place-names be-
ginning with this letter,
see also under K.
Qerslia 39 i.
t^ift 223.
Queen.i, Tomb.< of the319.
Q.Hibelll46. It 3. 334. 337.
454
INDEX.
Ka, see Re.
KagdiyeU 174.
Rahbein 174.
Rahmaniyeh 32.
Railways xvii.
Rain Ixxvii.
er-Raisiyeb 244.
Rakabeh 352.
Ramadan xcvi.
Ramesse, lee Rampe.s.
Ramesseam 30'i.
Ramleh 26.
Ramose, Toinl) of (Tell
el-'Amarna) 216.
— , Tomb of (Sheikh 'Abd
el-Kurna) 315.
Ramses I. ciii. cxxxiv.
243. 268. 282.
— I., Tomb of 291.
— II. ciii. cxxxiv. 121
171. 172. 185. 192. 206.
209.221.238. 2i3. 2.57ct
.seq. 264. 269. 270. 272.
276. 282. 306. 334. 340.
391. 393. 400. 404. 411.
— II., Colossi of 144.25'!.
259. 306. 404. 409.
— II., Tomb of 287.
— III. ciii. cxxxv. 171.
208. 262. 267. 2St. 322
et seq. 340.
— III., Tombsof2S9.286.
— IV. civ. cxxxv. 262.
375.
— IV., Tomb of 285.
— V. cxxxv. 288.
— VI. cxxxv.
— VI., Tomb of 288.
— VII. cxxxv.
— VIII. cxxxv.
— IX. cxxxv.
— IX., Tomb of 286.
— X. cxxxv.
— X., Tomb of 285.
— XI. cxxxv.
— XL, Tomb of 296.
— XII. civ. cxxxv. 262.
— XII., Tomb of 286.
Ras el-Bahr 177.
— el-'Eish 179. 185.
— el-Hamrayeh 318.
Rashid (Rosetta) 30.
Ras el-Khalig 175.
— Slohamnied 424
er-Raswa (Rassovia) 185.
Ras Za'feraneh 423.
Rayah el-3Ienuiiyeh 122.
— _et-Taufiki 122.
Re cxlii. cxlv. ciii.
Red Convent 220.
Redesiyeh (El-Redesia)
348.
Red Sea 424.
Red Sea Province 415.
Reedy Soa, the Biblical
189.
Re-Harakhte, see Ha-
rakhte.
Rehenu Valley 374.
Rehoboam 272.
Reisner 133. 221.
Rejaf 436.
Rekhmere, Tomb of 310.
Rekkah 205.
Reliefs, Egyptian clxxiv.
Religion, Egyptian cxl.
— , Mohammedan Ixxix.
Religions Festivals,
Mohammedan xcv.
— Orders, Mohammedan
xci.
Remushenti,Tomb of 230.
Reni, Tomb of 33G.
Renk 434.
el-Re7(?kat 332,
IJhakotis 12. 13.
Ri'a 375.
Ri'at el-GhazfU 375.
— cl-Hamra 376.
— el-Kbeil 376.
riifiViyeli xci.
Righa, Pvramid of 140.
er-Rikiyeh 343.
Rikka (El-Riqqa) 205.
el-Riqa 399.
Rizakilt (El-Ri zeiqat) 332.
Robatab Arabs 420.
Rock Tombs clxx. 208.
210. 212. 219. 221. 222.
227. 284. 305. 309. 335.
358.
Roda (Upper Egypt) 209.
231.
— , Island of 105.
er-Roda (Faiyiim) 193.
Rod el-Fara'; 78.
Uodsieh 348,
Romans ex.
Roseires 432.
Kosetta (Rashid) 30. 177.
— Stone cx.xvi. 31.
Rotl ii.
Ronessate 29.
Rub'a ii.
er-Rubiyat 193.
Ruei.sat 29.
Rumbek 435.
RiiFsaa 185.
Sabagvira 394.
Sabaieh 333.
Sabakh Ixxi.
Sabakon, see Shabako.
Sdba Pacha 26.
Sabni, Tomb of 359.
Sadd 435.
Sadi Canal 172.
Sa'diyeh Dervisliej xcii.
Safety, Public xx.
cs-Safl" 225.
Saft el-Hiueh 180.
— el-Meluk 32.
sa el-ITagar fSaVs) 33. 32.
Sahol '236.
Sahn clxxx.
Sahragt 173. 171.
es-Sa'^Jd xlvii.
Sa'id Pasha cxxii. 31. 69.
Sailing Boats 204. 417.
St. Anthony, Convent of
206. liv.
St. Georges 106. 167.
St. Jeremiah, Ccmvent of
146.
St. Mark 14.
St. Menas, City of 28.
St. Paul, Convent of 20fi.
liv.
St. Simeon, Convent of
361.
SS. Manaos and Sanutios,
Convent of 843.
Saints, Tombs of Moslem
xc. clxxxiii.
Sais (Sa el-Hagar) 33. 32.
Sakeit'_377. '
Sake-re 213.
Sakha 33.
Sakiyeh Ixxii. 427.
Sa&kara 145.
Apis Tombs 147.
Convent of St. Jeremiah
146.
Mariette's House 147.
Jlaskiba (Tomb) of Ke-
gem-ni 162.
— of Mereruka 159.
— of Ptahhotep 163.
— of Ti 149.
Mastabat el-Fara'6n
166.
Persian Shaft Tombs
166.
Pyramid of Merenre
166.
— of Onnos 165.
— of Phiops I. 166.
— of Phiops II. 166.
— of Teti 163.
Serapeum 147.
Step Pyramid 146.
Street of Tombs 162.
Tomb of the Physician
lb2.
Sakkara, Tabletlof 87.
Saladin (Salah ed-Din)
cxvi. 45". 68; 70.; 116.
Salamlik clxxxiii.
Salih, Sultan cxviii. 45.
INDEX.
455
es-SalUi Aiyub oxvii.
es-Salihiych (El-Salhia)
1^2. ■
Sallom Janction 425.
Samalut 208.
Samanud 174.
Samata 222.
Sarnhfld 222.
Sammut 3T7.
es-Sanaui ^193.
es-Sanamat 330.
Sandafa 207.
San el-IIagar (Tani.sj 172.
Sanhour (Faiyum) 193.
Sanhur (near Damanhur)
32.
Sanhur (Faiviim) 193.
Sanoures 192.
San Stefano 26.
Santah 174.
.•^ara 411.
Sarapii!. fee Serapis.
es-Saririyeh 226.
Sarras 413.
.Sarreh 411.
Satet (Salis) clii. 342.
Sauw 375.
Sawakin 425.
Sawarkeh Beduins Iviii.
Sayaleh 397.
.Scarabaei cxlv. clxxvii.
Schsefer 140.
Schedia 31.
SchiaparelH 319.
Schools. Arab 49.
Schutz 26.
Schweint'iirth, Prof. 42.
168.170.192.197.263.372.
Scott-Moncrieff, Sir C. 122.
Sculpture, Egyptian
clxxi.
Season xiii.
Sebek-hotep ci. cxx.xiii.
Sebek-nofru ci.
Sebennytic Arm of the
Kile 31. Isvii.
Sebennytos 174.
Sebichos cv.
Sebil clxxxii.
es-Sebu'a 398.
Second Mariout 28.
Sects, Mohammedan xcii.
Sedfa 219.
Sedment el-Gebel 206.
Seffer 26.
Seheil_363.
Sehure c. 141.
Seileh 191.
Seiyid Ahmed el-Bedawi
xcii. 33.
Seiyideh Zeinab xcvi. 74.
Seiyid \ Ibrahim ed - De-
suki xcii. 32.
Sekenyenre 111. ci.
cxxxiv.
Sekhmet cxl. cxlii. cxliii.
cxlvi. clii. clvi.
.Selim 1. cxix. 45. 61. 120.
355.
es-Seliyin 193.
Selket clii.
Selwah 337. 348.
Semneh 413.
■Senaro (Senarou) 19G.
Senhur 193.
SenkariDakhlaniyeh 398.
Senmet 370.
Senmose, Tomb of 360.
Senmut, Tomb of 313.
Sennar 432.
— , Province of 415. 'i32.
xlvi.
Sennofer, Tomb of 310.
Senmitem, Tomb of 318.
Senru 196. 192.
.Scnures 192. 193.
Senwosret, see Sesostri,^.
Scptimius Sevems cxi.
cxxxix. 14.
Serai Kubbeh 120.
Serapeiim (at Alexandria^
14. 16.
— flsthmns of Suez) 186.
— (at Sakkara) 147.
Serapis cxlvii. clii. 11
30. 147. 397.
Serdab clxviii.
el-Seririeh 226.
Serpent Mountain, Nome
of the 219.
Seshet cxlvi. clii. clvi.
Sesonchis, tee Shoshenk.
Sesostris I. c. cxxxiii.
121. 193. 205.
— II. ci. cxxxiii. 195. 196.
— III. ci. cxxxiii. 166.
385. 413.
Setaw,Memorial Recesses
of 403. 411.
— , Tomb of 336.
Setekh, see Seth.
Seth cxliii. cxlv. clii. 44.
172. 224. 236. 250. 343.
her-khopshef. Tomb
of 320.
nakht ciii. 289. 291.
Sethosl. ciii. cxxxiv. 16.
227. 238. 257. 270. 279.
282. 376. 403.
— I., Tomb of 292.
— II. ciii. cxxxv. 264.
266.
— II., Tomb of 291.
Sethy, tee Sethos.
Seti 385.
Seton-Karr, I.t. 207.
Seyala 397.
Shabako cv. cxxxv. 259.
277. 329.
Sha'ban. Sultan 45.
Shabataka cv.
Shabbas 32.
Shabluka Cataract 423.
Shadow Play.s xxvii. 42.
Shaduf Ixxii.
Shadwan 424.
esh-Shafi'i Ixx.vvi. 115.
.Shaiyites Ixxxvi.
Shaft Tombs, Persian
166.
Shaghb (Shaghab) 333.
esh-Shaghbeh 235.
esh-Sha'iniveh 244.
Shalakan 122.
Shalfak 413.
esh-Shalliifeh 187.
Sbambe 435.
Shandid 32.
Shar' Ixxxvi.
Sharaki Fields l.\xii.
Sharkawiyeh Canal 34.
Sharkiyeli. Province of
xlvii. 171.
Sharuna 207. 226.
Shataui 410.
Shatbi 25.
Shatt er-Rigaleh 338.
Shaturmeh (Shatorma)
398.
Shauvi^al xcvi.
Shaw, Nich. 126.
Shawashneh 197. 193.
Shaweh 173.
Shawer cxvi.
el-Shebbak 403.
Sheblengeh 181.
Sheikh 'Abadeh 209.
— "^Abd el-Knrna 309.
— Abu Nur 193.
el-Beled xlvii.
esh-Sheikh Fadl 226.
Sheikh Hasan 193.
— Ti'1-Isiam Ixxxvi.
Musa 236.
Rekab 373.
Sa'id 231.
— Tombs xc. clxxxii.
Sheikiyeh Arabs 420.
hellal 363.
hendawin 219. 236.
Shendi 422.
Shenbur 250.
Shepenupet (daushter of
PiaiikhiJ 278. 323.
— (daughter of Takelo-
this 111.) 276.
Shepses-kef-onekh,
Tomb of 137.
Shereik 421.
456
INDEX,
Sheri'a Ixxxvi.
Sheshonk, see ShoshenU.
Shes-hotcp '235.
Shetawi 410.
Shetet 192. 191. 195.
Shetu, Tomb of 207.
Shibbak 403.
.Shibin el-K;iniltii- 170.
120.
— el-Kom 33.
ShiblaDga 181.
Shidmo 193.
esh-Shigeig 893.
Shiites xcii.
■Shikelkil 232.
Sliiliuk Negroes 434.
Shin 32. 33. 174.
Shinnawiyeh Dervishes
xcii.
Sliirbin 175.
Shirkiih cxvi.
Shishak, see Shoshenk.
Shisheh xxvi.
Shmin 220.
Shmun 209.
Shooting 417.
Shoshenk I. civ. cxxxv.
207. 272.
Shotb 234.
Show cxlii. t'.Kliil. cxlv.
clii.
Shua 173.
Shu''ara xxvi.
Shubra 7S. 121.
Shubrakhit 32.
Shflnet ez-Zebib 243.
Shuroi. Tomb of 283.
Siala 191.
es-Siba'yeh (El-Sibaia)
333. 343.
Siboo 398.
Sid fa 219.
Sidi Berani 29.
— Gaber 25. 30.
— el-Haggag 29.
— Salem 33.
Siheil 363.
Sikait 377.
Sikket Bender 377.
Silko 390.' ■'
Silsilehv338.
Silweh 337. 348.
Sinaru 196.
Sinbelawin fSimbella-
ouein) 172.
Singa 432.
el-Singari-El-Dakhlania
898.
Singers. Female xxvii.
Sinkat 426.
Siptah ciii. 309.
— , Tomb of 298.
es-Sirag 348. 337.
Sirdars Island 368.
Si-renpowet , Tomb.s of
359. 360.
Sistrum Columns clxi.
Sitre, Tomb of 320.
Sitteh Gasma 389.
Siut, see Assiut.
Siweh, Oasis 'of 378.
xlvii.
Slavery Ixi.
Sloane 144.
Smith, Sir Ch. H. 412.
Smithis, see Nekhbcyet.
Snake Charmers xxvii.
Sne 342.
Snofru xcix. cxxxiii. 166
205.
Soba 433.
Sobat, the Ixiv. 485.
Sobek cxl. cxli. cxlIi.
cxlvi. clii. clvi. 192.
196. 198. 349.
■Sohag 219. 236.
Sohagiyeh Canal 221.
Soil, Capabilities of th
Ixx.
Soker clii. 242. 32G.
Soknopaios 196.
Soknopaiou Nesos 106.
Soldiers' Tomb 234.
Solium 29.
Sonbat 174.
Songs, Arab xxvii.
Sonta 174.
Sotliis cxlii.
Souhag, see Sohag.
Speos Artemidos 227.
Sphinx, the Great (Gizeh)
135.
— , the (Memphis) 144.
— Avenues clxvii. 147
261.262.264.230.300.398.
Spices Ixxiv.
Sport 417.
Statues, Egyptian clxxii.
Steamboats 1-6. 201. 383.
417.
Stephanus of Byzantium
255.
Step Pyramid clxix. 146
Stewart, Col. cxxiv. 4'20.
Stimulants Ixxiv.
Story-Tellers xxvi.
Strabo ex. 13. 121. 170.
180. 190. 191. 195. 205.
220. 221. 237. 255. 256.
284. 331. 357. 363.
Students, Moslem 55.
Suakin 425.
Suan 354.
Suchos, see Sobek.
.'^udan 415. xlvi.
— Negroes Ixi.
Sudd 436. Ixiv.
Suez 187.
— , Isthmus of 182. Ixviii.
— Canal 182.
Sufi 198.
Sugar Cane Ixxiv. Ixx.
Summer Crops Ixxiii.
Summit 426.
Sun, Cult of the cxliv.
cxlvi. 120. 140. 211. 422.
— , Winged cl. clvi.
Sunna Ixxxv.
Sunt Tree Ixxv.
Sureh Ixxxix. Ixxxvii.
Suti, Tomb of 216.
Sweis 188.
Swenet 354.
Sycamore Nome 218. 233.
Syene 354.
Symbolic Signs clxxvii.
Syout 233.
Syrians Ixi.
Syringes 284.
Tabennese 222.
Tabut Ixxii.
Tachos cvii.
Tateh 383.
Tahapanhes 185.
Taharka cv. cxxxvi. 2B6.
277. 280. 329. 419.
Tahta 219. 23t).
Taka xlvi.
Takelothis I. civ. cxxxv.
— II. 268.
— m. 276.
Takhtabosh clxxxiv.
et-Talibiyeh 123.
fal'kha 175. 174.
talmis 389.
Tamai cxxiv.
Tamiyeh (Tamia) 193.
Tammuh 148.
tangassi 420.
Tanis 172.
Tanites civ.
Tanitic Arm of the Nile
171. 185. Ixvii.
Tannur clxxxi.
Tanta 83. 174.
Tanutamun cv. 280.
Taphis 338.
Taposiris Magna 29.
— Parva 30.
etTarh 30.
Tarik ed-Dahrawi 376.
Tarkibeh clxxxiii.
Taufik cxxiii. 46. 114.
Tauflkia (Sudan) 436.
Taufikiyeb (Delta) 33.
Tayiba 432.
Tbot 343.
et-Teb cxxiv.
INDEX.
457
Tebehne, Tomb of 138.
Tebhar 193.
Tebtynis 193.
Teephibjs 330.
Tefnakhte civ.
Tefnut cxlii. cxliii. clii.
Tef-yeb, Tomb of 2.S4.
Tehaphnebes 185.
Teh el-Barud 32.
Tehna el-Gebel 20S.
Tehor cvii.
Teifeh 388.
Teiriyeh 32.
Telegraphs xx.
Telephones xx.
Tell Aba Seifeh 185.
— el-'Amarna 211.
— Basta (Bnbastis) 171.
— Defenneh 185.
— el-Fadda 186.
— Farama 186.
— ibn es-Salam 172.
— el-Kasr 172.
— el-ke'bir 131.
— el-Maskhuta 180.
— Jlokdam 174.
— Eoba 172.
— el-Yehudivch 171.
Tema 219.
Temperature Ixivii.
Temple.s clxii.
Tenis 208.
Tenkaleh 402.
Tennis 185.
Tent-Karu, Tomb of 298.
Pole Column clxi.
Tentvra 245.
Tep-'yeh 205.
Terabiyin Bednins Iviii.
Te-she 180.
Te-snet 342.
Tet cli.
Tetf-re xcix. 139.
Teti c. cxxxiii. 163.
Tetnn cJii. 3'^. 414.
Tewfik, ue Taufik.
Tewosret 309.
— , Tomb of 291.
Teye cii. 191.
— , Tomb of 298.
Thamiam 426.
Theadelphia 198.
Thebes 254.
Theodosius I. the Great
cxii. 14. 16.
— II. cxii.
TheophiJus cxii. 15.
This 221.
Thmnis (Lower Egypt)
172.
— (Upper Egypt) 348.
Thout (Thoth) cxl. cxii
cxlii. clii. clvi. 209.410
Thout of Puubs 395.
Thuti, Tomb of (Drah
Ahul Ne-ga) 283.
— , Tomb of (Kom el-
Ahmar) 337.
, Tomb of (Sheikh 'Abd
el-Kurnal 316.
-hotep, Tomb of 210.
Thutmosis (Thntmose) I.
cii. cxxxiv. 2B5. 273.
I., Tomb of 297.
II. cii. cxxxiv. 273.
II., Tomb of 298.
— III. cii. cxxxiv. 19i.
227.259.273etseq.303.
309. 328. 337. 399. 412.
413. 414.
— III., Tomb of 296.
— IV. cii. cxxxiv. 135.
309. 399.
— IV., Tomb of 298.
Ti, Mastaba of 149.
Tiberius ex. cxxxviii.
et-Till 211.
Time-en-Hor 31.
Timsah, Lake 186.
Tine 221.
Tineh 179.
Tireh 174.
Tirhakah, see Taharka.
Titi, Tomb of 320.
Titus ex.
Tiyaha Beduins Iviii.
Tkow 235.
Tmei el-Amdid 172. 174,
Tobacco xvii. xxvi.lsxiv,
Tod (near Damanhur) 32,
el-Tod (near Erment) 332.
Toeris clii.
Tomas 401.
Tombs, Arabian clxxxii
— , Egyptian elxvii.
Tonga 435.
Tor 424. 377.
Toreiya clxxxi.
Tosbkeh 403.
Toski 403.
Tuukb 224.
Tourist Parties xiv.
— Steamers 201. 384.
Trajan ex. cxxxix. 14.
182. 245. 2.50. 358.
Trees Ixxv.
Tree-Trunk Column
clviii.
Tribunal.^ xx.
Trieste 5. 6.
T-sent-nofret 349.
Tubhar 193.
ef-Tud 332.
Tu'e, Tomb of 29S.
Tukh Delta) 34.
— (near Kus) 224.
Tu-Kow 235.
Tulunides cxiv.
Tuman Bey cxix. 45. 61.
i'umas 401.
Tuneh el-(Jebel 209.
Tunqala 402.
Tuphium 332.
Tur 424. 377.
Tura 167. 170.
Turanshah cxvii. 173.
Turba clxxxi.
Turbans 46.
Turbet el-Kurud 29?.
Turks Ixi. "exx.
Tusun 186.
— Pasha cxxi.
Tut-enkh-Amun cii. 257.
260. 274.
Tuti, Island 428.
Tutu, Tomb of 215.
Twe-metf clii.
Twet cxliv. cxiviii. 284.
Tytihon, see Setb.
Typhonia 250.
Tzitzi 388.
TJaphris, see Apries.
LTganda 436.
ykiya ii.
Ulad 'Ali Beduins Iviii.
— 'Ilwan xcii.
— iSuh xcii.
Ulama Ixxxvi. 47.
Umm el-'Aish 29.
— ^Ali 421.
— el-Atl 197.
— Dikal 373.
Ummebeida 379.
Umm el-Ga'ab 243.
— Garavat 397.
— Hebal 3G2.
— Rus 377.
es-Sughair 378.
Underworld cxiviii. 284.
Unis, see Onnos.
Upper Nile Province 415.
Ups 370.
Urseus Snake e.xliv.
clxxvii.
Urbi 420.
Uronarti 413.
Usaphai's, Tomb of 2-13.
Userhet, Tomb of (Btbiiii
el-Muluk) 298.
— , Tombs of (Sheikli
'Abd el-Knrna) 315.
Ushebtis cxiviii.
Usim 32.
Uze-he-Teti,Tombofl62,
Valerian cxi. 14.
Vegetables Ixxiv.
Vegetation of Egypt Ixx.
458
INDEX.
Vegetation of the Sudan
427.
Venice 4.
Varus 23C.
Vespasian ex. cxxxix. 14
Victoria College 26.
— Nyanza 436. Ixiv.
Vine, Culture of Ixxvi.
Virgin's Tree 120.
Vocabulary, Arabic xxxii
Vyse, H. 126.
Wad Bennaga 422.
Wadelai 436.
Wadfa 198.
Wadi Abu Agiig 362.
— Abyad 377.
— Allaki 397.
— Ambagi 375.
— Ammerikbeh 376.
— Amrugum 377.
— el-' Arab (valley) 362.
(village) 397.
— Arud 362.
— Awateib 422.
— Baramram 362.
— Beida 375.
— Beizah 377.
— el-Bersheh 210.
— Digla 118.
— Dimhid (Dehmit) 362,
— Duera 362.
— Fatireh 373.
— Gasus 375.
— Gemal 377.
— Gerraui 170.
— Ghazal (Arabian
Desert) 375.
(near JJIerowe) 420.
— Haifa 411.
— Hammamat 374. 223.
— el-Hasir 377.
— Higelig 377.
— Hof 170.
— el-Homr 376.
— Homuda 376.
— el-Hudi 362.
— Kabr el-Khadim 375.
— el-Kash 376.
— Kattar 373.
— :feeneh 373.
— l&hawanib 397.
— Lahemi 377.
— Letheileh 378.
— Maghlat 376.
— Miah 376.
— Moeiheh 377.
— en-Nakhleh 210.
Wadi Natrun 32. 29.
— Nur 376.
— Rami 378.
— Bayan 193.
— Risheid 170.
— Rosafa 375.
— Rumit 377.
— Sakeit 377.
— esh-Sheikh 207,
— es-Sofra 423.
— et-iih 118.
— Tumilat 180.
— Umbarek 377.
— Umm Hebal 362.
Wadiyein 285.
Wad Medani 432.
Waghorn, Lt. 183. 188.
Wahabis xci.
Wah el-Behnesa 379.
Waked 32.
el-Waladiveh (Walidia)
232.
Wall Paintings clxxi.
Wardan 32.
Wardian 26. 27.
el-Waresab 352.
el-Wasta (near As.siut)
235. '
— (near Benisueif) 206.
225. 191.
Water Carriers 48.
— Pipes xxvi.
— Wheels Ixxii.
Wau 435.
Weather Ixxvi.
Weddings, Moslem xciii.
el-Wedj 377.
Wefa en-Nil xovii.
Weh-eb-re, see Apries.
Weibeh ii.
Weights ii.
Wen-nofre clii.
Wep-wawet cxl. clii. 233.
Wer-khewew, Tomb of
138.
Wert-hekew clii.
Weset 25^.
Wewet 385.
Wezmose 309.
White Convent 220.
— mie, the Ixiv. 427. 43.5.
— — Province 415.
Wilkinson, Sir G. 126.
Willcocks, Sir W. 232.
372.
Wilson, Sir Chas. cxxv.
Winds Ixxviii.
Wingate, Sir R 415.
Winter Cultivation
Ixxiii.
Wolseley, Gen. cxxiv.
420. 422.
Women. Oriental
Ixxxviii. 47.
Wto (Bulo) clii.
Xerxes I. cvi. c.vxxvi.
Xois ci.
Yanbo el-Bahr 377.
el-Yasiniyeh 244.
Year, Arabian xcv.
Yebu 354.
Yefu-Ile clii.
Yemet 172.
Yenuam, Battle of 270.
Young, Thos. cxxvi.
Yu'e, Tomb of 298.
Zabu 379.
Zagazig 171.
ez-Zahir cxv.
Ziikazik 171. 173. 181.
Zan 172.
Zanet 172.
Zankalun 181.
Zarar 397.
Zarkun 32.
Zauti, Tomb of 222.
Zaw, Tomb of 219.
Zavpiyeh olxxxi.
Zawivet Abu Musallim
140:
— el-Amwat 208.
— el-''Aryan 140.
— el-31eitin 208.
Zeb-nuter 174.
Zeflfet el-Hammam xciii.
Zeidab 42i.
Zenen, Tombs of 312. 313.
Zenhebu, Tomb of 166.
Zeno cxiii.
Zenobia cxi.
Zephirium 29.
Zer, Tomb of 243.
Zeraf Mouth 435.
— New Cut 435.
Zerar 397._
Zeser-ke-re-seueb, Tomb
of 313.
Zifteh 174.
Zikrs xci.
Zizinia 26.
Zoan 172.
Zoser xcix. 146.
Zuma 420.
PaiNTBD IN GaKMANX BT EkEITKOFP &. H.«ETEL, LEIFZIG.
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