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EGYPT 


MONEY  TABLE. 

(Comp.  pp.  XV,  xvi  and  Tables  at  end  of  the  book.) 
Approximate  Equivalents. 


Arabic  Kame 


Egyptian 
Money 


British 

French 

Money 

Money 

S) 

1    S 

!    n 

<v 

H 

H 

a 

a 

CO 

cu 

IK 

o 

20 

6Vi 

25 

90 

lU 

3 

12 

95 

4 

iVi 

5 

18 

2 

V* 

2 

59 

1 

H* 

1 

;-)() 

h 



52 

— 

21/2 

— 

26 

- 

2V2 

- 

26 

_ 

V/' 

— 

13 

— 

— 

5 

— 

v. 

— 

21/2 

American 
Money 


Gold  Coins. 

Oineih  Masri  (Egypt,  pound,  £  K) 

Nuiseh  oineih  (half  £  El    ...   . 

Silver  Coins. 

Riydl  Masri 

Nusseh  Ftiydl 

Rub'  Riydl 

Kirshein  (clnuble  piastre)  .  .   .  . 

Kirsh  T    

Kickel  Coins. 

Kirsh  (great  piastre ;  Kirsh  xAgh)  v 

X^usseh   Kirsh    (.small    or    half 

piastre;  Kirsh  ta'rtfa)\    .  .  . 

2  ifilliimes 

1  MiUi^me  (milyeim) 


100: 

50: 


:iOOO 
:    500 

:  200 

:  100 

:  50 

:  20 

:  10 


10        — 


50 


+  The  great  piastre  (rarely  met  in  silver)  is  generally  indicated  by  P.  T. 
('piastre  tarif),  sometimes  also  by  P.  E.  ('piastre  ^gyptienne').  The  two 
piastres  are  frequently  confounded  by  Europeans  in  retail  transactions; 
attention  therefore  should  be  paid  to  the  Arabic  names,  'kirsh  sagh'  and 
'kirsh  ta'rifa'.  The  contraction  'pias.'  is  used  uniformly  throughout  the 
Handbook  for  the  great  piastre  (kirsh). 

In  Copper  there  are  pieces  of  Vi  ^"'^  '/*  millieme. 


Weights  and  Measures. 

1  Lirhem  =  ■i.K  grammes  =  48.is  grains  troy;  1  Ukiya  (12  dirhem)  = 
37.44  grammes  —  I.32  oz.  avoirdupois ;  1  Roll  (12  ukiya)  =  449.28  grammes 
=  15.85  oz.  (just  under  lib.);  1  Okka  (400  dirhem)  =  I.048  kilogrammes  = 
2.7513  lbs.  (about  2  lbs.  12  oz.)  •,  1  Katitdr  =  100  Rotl  =  36  Okka  =  44.928  kilo- 
grammes =  99.0498  lbs.  (about  99  lbs."  */b  oz.). 

1  Rub' a  =  8.25  litres  =  1  gal.  3  qts.  1/2  pint;  1  Weibeh  =  4  rub'a  = 
33  litres  =  7  gals.  1  gt. ;  1  Ardebb  =  6  weibeh  =  198  litres  =  43  gals.  2  qts. 

1  Dird'  beledi  =  O.ss  metre  =  22.835  inches ;  1  Kasdbeh  =  3.55  metres  = 
11  ft.  7.763  inches  =  3.8S2  yds.  —  1  Square  Kasabeh  =  l'2.6o  square  metres  = 
15.072  sq.  yds.;  1  Fedddn  =  4200.83  sq.  metres  "=  about  5024  sq.  yds.  =  Loss  acre. 

In  all  official  transactions  the  metrical  system  of  weights  and  measures 
is  employed. 


Official  Time. 

East  European  Time  {i.e.  that  of  30°  E.  long.)  has  been  ofiicially  adopted 
in  Egypt  and  the  Sudan.  Egyptian  time  is  thus  1  hr.  in  advance  of  Central 
Europe  time  (Italy,  Switzerland,  Germany)  and  2  hrs.  in  advance  of  Green- 
wich time. 


^^ 


1^ 


B. 


Sl-Gftiia'  R 


fe»' ■■''•'»'''/'--  .-tl'^ 
H^.       j^  nailer 


i., 


^: 


*-      AV^   a    d    V  ^ 

Miurptl  el-Moglxrd 


-^ 


% 


^J,.  r.r-.-.vVr^ 


,„.sS       '^      :>2JS."-ii)       E  ,    arabe    B      A      H      K        " 


EGYPT 

AND 

THE   SUDAN 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

BY 

KARL  BAEDEKER 


WITJI  22  MAI'S.  S5  TT.ANS,  AND  55  VIGNKTTES 


SEVENTH  REMODELLED  EDITION 


LEIPZIG:  KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LONDON:  T.  FISHER  UNWIN,  1  ADEI.PHI  TERRACE,  W.C. 
NEW   VOUK:  CHAS.  SCHIBNER\S  SONS,  FIFTH  AVE.  AT  48TH  ST. 

1914 
All  riglttt  reserved 


'Go,  little  book,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere 
Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  art  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call, 
Thee  to  correct  in  any  part  or  all.' 


/   ^8(005.0 


Made  and  Fbintkd  in  Gbrmant. 


ARTS 

PREFACE.  (tlH 


Ever  since  the  attention  of  the  civilized  world  was  re- 
directed to  Egypt  at  the  beginning  of  the  19tli  century,  the 
scientific  investigation  of  its  innumerable  monuments  has 
pointed  with  ever-growing  certainty  to  the  valley  of  the  Nile 
as  the  cradle  of  history  and  of  human  culture.  At  the  same 
time  Egypt,  like  other  Eastern  countries,  possesses  high  nat- 
ural attractions,  in  the  peculiar  charms  of  its  oriental  cli- 
mate, the  singularly  clear  atmosphere,  the  wonderful  colour- 
ing and  effects  of  light  and  shade,  the  exuberant  fertility  of 
the  cultivated  districts  contrasted  with  the  solemn  desert, 
and  the  manners,  customs,  and  appearance  of  a  most  inter- 
esting and  most  diversified  population. 

The  Handbook  to  Egypt  i-,  of  which  the  present  is  the 
seventh  edition,  is  founded  on  the  combined  work  of  several 
Egyptologists  and  other  Oriental  scholars.  Among  the  former 
must  be  specially  mentioned  Professor  Georg  Steindorff,  of 
Leipzig  University,  who  has  edited  the  German  Handbook 
since  the  year  1897,  and  has  also  supervised  the  preparation 
of  the  English  editions.  The  Editor  gratefully  acknowledges 
also  the  information  received  from  numerous  correspondents 
and  official  sources  which  has  often  proved  most  useful;  any 
further  corrections  or  suggestions  will  be  highly  appreciated. 

The  Editor  hopes,  that  by  confining  himself  to  essential 
points  and  by  carefully  arranging  his  material,  he  has  suc- 
ceeded, within  small  compass,  in  supplying  the  traveller  with 
the  necessary  information  regarding  the  country  and  the 
people  he  is  about  to  visit.  An  attempt  has  been  made  to  in- 
dicate clearly  the  most  important  among  the  bewildering  mnl- 
tiplicity  of  the  monuments  of  antiquity,  and  the  descriptions 
of  these  have  been  so  arranged  that,  assuming  the  traveller  to 
have  previously  read  at  his  leisure  our  account  of  the  origin, 
history,  and  significance  of  a  particular  temple  or  tomb,  etc., 


T  The  contents  (if  the  Handbook  are  divided  into  Foub  Sections 
d.  Introductory  MattfT.  Approaches  to  Egypt,  pp.  i-cxc  and  1-6;  II.  Lower 
Egypt,  pp.  7-198;  III.  Upper  Egypt,  Lower  jfubia,  Upper  Nubia  and  the 
Sudan,  pp.  199-436;  IV.  General  Inde.v,  pp.  4374.581,  each  of  which  may 
be  separ.Ttely  removed  from  the  vnlume  by  cuttinc:  the  gauze  backing 
visible  on  opening  the  book  at  the  requisite  pages.  Linen  covers  for  these 
sections  may  be  obtained  through  any  liookseller. 


vi4^i/ir„  PREFACE. 

he  will  find  adequate  guidance  on  the  spot  in  that  portion  of 
our  description  that  is  printed  in  larger  type,  while  those  who 
have  time  and  inclination  for  a  more  thorough  examination 
will  find  additional  particulars  in  small  type. 

The  Maps  and  Plans  have  been  the  object  of  the  Editor's 
special  care,  and  all  have  been  carefully  revised  by  Prof. 
Steindorflf,  with  the  aid  of  the  most  recent  publications.  Nine 
maps  and  plans,  several  new  ground-plans,  and  a  represen- 
tation of  Egyptian  coins  have  been  entirely  redrawn  or  appear 
for  the  first  time  in  the  present  edition.  The  spelling  of  the 
names  on  the  maps  of  the  Faiyiim  and  of  the  Nile  from  Cairo 
to  Assuan  (3  sheets)  follows  the  official  French  transliteration 
of  the  'Recensement  general  de  I'Egypte  du  ler  juin  1897', 
whereas  in  some  of  the  new  maps  the  spelling  of  the  Egyptian 
Survey  Department  (comp.  p.  cxc)  has  been  adopted.  At  the 
end  ot'  the  volume  will  be  found  a  key-map  indicating  the 
ground  covered  by  the  special  maps  of  the  volume. 

Hotels,  etc.,  see  p.  xviii.  Hotels  which  cannot  be  ac- 
curately characterized  without  exposing  the  Editor  to  the  risk 
of  legal  proceedings  are  left  unuientioned. 

To  hotel- proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a  character  for  fair  dealing  towards 
travellers  is  the  sole  passi)ort  to  his  commendation,  and  that 
no  advertisements  of  any  kind  are  admitted  to  his  Hand- 
books. Hotel-keepers  are  warned  against  persons  represent- 
ing themselves  as  agents  for  Baedeker's  Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 

PI.  =  plan.  I  S.  =  south,  etc. 

R.  =  route;  room.  E.  =  east,  etc. 

B.  =  breakfast.  I  W.  =  west,  etc. 

D.  =  dinner.  ;  lir.  =  hour 

pens.  =  pension  (board  and  lodging) 

ca.  =  circa,  about. 

comp.  —  compare. 

r.  =  right. 

1.  =  left. 

Dyn.  =  dynasty 


mill.  =  minute. 

M.  =  English  mile. 

ft.  =  English  foot. 

yd.  =  yard. 

iBE  =  Egyptian  pound] 

pias.  =  piastre  >coiiip.  p.  xv. 


N.  =  north,  northwards,  northern.      |  mill.  =  millieme 

The  letter  d  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates  the 
year  of  his  death.  The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name  of  a  place 
shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  The  number  of  miles  placed  before 
the  principal  places  on  railway -routes,  steamer -routes,  and  highroads 
indicates  their  distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 

Asterisks  denote  objects  of  special  interest  or  imply  commendation. 


CONTENTS. 


Page 

I.  Preliminary  Information xiii 

(1).   Plan  of  Tour.  Season.  Expenses.  Money.  Equip- 
ment.   Travelling  Companions xiii 

(2).  Coinage.  Passports.    Custom  House xv 

(8).  Conveyance^ :  Steamers.  Railways.  Narrow  Gauge 

Railways.    Cabs.    Donkeys xvii 

[4).   Hotels xviii 

(^5).  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices xix 

(61.   Public  Safety.  Consulates.   Courts  of  Justice  .    .  xx 
(7).   Egypt  as  a  Health  Resort.     Medical  Hints  (by 

Dr.  Leigh  Canney) xxi 

(8).   Intercourse  with  Orientals.    Dragomans    ....  xxiv 
(9).  4J"*^i*ii  Caf^s.   Story  Tellers.  Musicians.  Singers. 

Shadow  Plays.    Baths xxvi 

(10).   The  Egyptian  Dialect  of  Arabic  (by  Dr.  C.  Priifer)  xxviii 

II.  Geographical  and  Political  Notes xlvi 

a.  Area  and  Subdivisions  of  Egypt  (by  Captain  H. 

6.  Lyons) xlvi 

b.  Origin  and  Present  Condition  of  the  Egyptians  (by 

Prof.  O.  Schweinfurlh') xlviil 

il).  The  Fellahin li 

(2).  Copts liv 

(3).  Beduins Ivii 

(4).  Arab  Dwellers  in  Towns lix 

(5).  Nubians Ix 

(6).  Sudan  Nej^roes Ixi 

(7).  Turks Ixi 

(8).  Levantines,  Syrians,  etc Ixi 

(9).  Armenians  and  Jeves Ixii 

(10).  Europeans Ixii 

c.  The  Nile  (by  Captain  H.  6.  Lyons) Ixiv 

d.  Geology  of  Egypt  and  Notice  of  the  Desert    .    .    .  Ixviii 

e.  Agriculture  and  Vegetation Ixx 

(1).  Capabilities  of  the  Soil IxX 

(2).  Irrigation Ixxi 

(3).  Agricultural     Seasons    (Winter.     Summer,     and 

Autumn  Crops).     Agricultural  Implements      .     .  Ixxiii 

(4).  Farm  Produce  of  Egypt Ixxiv 

(5).  Trees  and  Plantations Ixxv 

f.  Climate  of  Egypt  (by  Captain  H.  O.  Lyons)  .    .    .  Ixxvi 
HI.    El-lslam  (by  Prof.  C.  H.  Becker) Ixxix 

Remarks  on  Mohammedan  Customs xciii 

Mohammedan  Calendar.     Festivals     ....         ...  xuv 


Tiii  CONTENTS. 

Page 
IV.  Outline  of  the  History  of  Egypt xcviii 

I.  Ancient  History  (by  Prof.  6.  Steindorff)  ....    xcviii 

a.  From  the   Earliest  Times  to  the  Macedonian 
Conquest  in  332  B.C xcviii 

1.  Prehistoric  Period xcviii 

2.  Earliest  Period  of  the  Kings xcix 

3.  Ancient  Empire xcix 

4.  Middle  Empire c 

5.  New  Empire ci 

6.  Period  of  Foreign  Domination civ 

7.  Late-Egyptian  Period cv 

b.  Grffico-Ronian  Period  (332  B.C.-640  A.D.)    .    .       evil 

1.  Alexander  the  Great   and  the  Ptolemaic  Period         cvii 

2.  Roman  Period ex 

3.  Byzantine  Period .     .     .  ■ cxii 

II.  The  Middle  Ages cxiii 

Egypt  as  a  Pnivince  of  the  Empire  of  the  Caliphs  cxiii 

Egypt  under  Independent  Rulers cxv 

III.  Modern  History cxx 

Turkish  Domination  after  1517 cxx 

The  French  Occupation cxx 

Jlohammed  Ali  and  his  Successors o\x 

V.  Hieroglyphics  (by  Prof.  G.  Steindorff)      ....*.    cxxvi 

1.  Phonetic  Symbols cxxviii 

2.  Word  Signs cxxix 

3.  Determinatives cxxx 

4.  Frequently  recurring  Cartouches  of  Egyptian  Kings  .    cxxxiii 

VI.  Religion  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians  (by2>o/'.G.5temdor^)  cxl 
List  of  the  chief  Egyptian  Deities  and  Sacred  Animal?  cxlix 
Representations  of  the  most  important  Deities  ....         cliii 

VII.  Historical  Notice  of  Egyptian  Art  (by  Prof.  0.  Steindorff)      clvii 

1.  Architecture     ^ clvii 

2.  Sculpture  and  Painting clxxi 

VIII.  Buildings  of  the  Mohammedans  (by  Franz-Pasha)    .     clxxviii 

Mosques clxxx 

Tombs clxxxii 

Dwelling  Hon.ses clx.xxiii 

IX.  Works  on  Egypt clxxxvii 

Route 

1.  Approaches  to  Egypt  (Steamship  Lines) 1 

Lower  Egfypt. 

2.  Alexandria 9 

3.  From  Alexandria  to  Cairo 31 

4.  Cairo 35 

5.  Environs  of  Cairo 104 

6.  The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh 123 

7.  The  Site  of  Ancient  Memphis  and  the  Necropolis  of  Sakkara  142 

8.  Baths  of  Helwan 167 

9.  From  Cairo  to  Mansura  via  Helbeis  and  Zakazik     ....  170 
10.  From  Tanta  to  Damietta  via  Mansura 174 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Ronte  Page 

11.   From  Port  Sa'id  to  Cairo  or  Suez  via  Isma'iliyeh  ....  177 

1'2.   The  Suez  Canal  from  Port  Sa'id  to  Suez 181 

13.  Suez  and  its  Environs 187 

14.  The  Faiyum 190 

Tipper  Egypt. 

Preliminary  Information 200 

15.  From  Cairo  to  Luxor  by  Railvray 205 

16.  From  Cairo  to    As^iut  by  the  Nile 224 

17.  From  Assiut  to  Girgeh  and  Baliana  (Abydos)  by  the  Nile  235 
IS.   Abydos     .  ' 237 

19.  From  Baliana  to  Keneh  (Dendera)  and  Luxor  by  the  Nile  244 

20.  Luxor  and  its  Environs :  the  Site  of  Ancient  Thebes  .    .  251 

21.  From  Luxor  to  Assuan  by  Railway 332 

22.  From  Luxor  to  Edfu  by  the  Nile 341 

23.  From  Edl'u  to  Assuan  by  the  Nile 348 

24.  Assuan  and  its  Environs.    Philae  and  the  Nile  Dam      353,  362 

25.  Routes  through  the  Eastern  Desert 372 

26.  The  Western  Oases 378 

Lower  Nubia. 

Preliminary  Information 383 

27.  From  Shellal  (Phil.-cl  to  Kalabsheh 387 

28.  From  Kalabsheh  to  Korosko 393 

29.  From  Korosko  to  .4bu  Simbel 399 

30.  The  Rock  Temples  of  Abu  Simbel 404 

31.  From  Abu  Simbel  to  Wadi  Haifa  ...        410 

Upper  Nubia  and  the  Stidan. 

Political  Summary.    Climate.    Preliminary  Information  .  415 

32.  From  AVadi  Haifa  to  Khartum 419 

33.  From  Suez  to  Khartum  via  Port  Sudan 423 

34.  Khartum  and  Omdurman 426 

Longer  Excursions  to  the  Southern  Sudan 432 

Index 437 


Maps. 


Page 


1.  Map  of  the  Delia  (1  :  1,000,000),  before  the  Title  Page. 

2.  Map  of  the  Ewirom  of  Alexandria  (1 :  125,000).  with  (31 
Map  of  the  Mareotis  Distrirt  (1 :  1 ,000,000) 25 

4.    Map  of  the  Immediate  Envirorn  of  Cairo  (1 :  75,000),  with 

(^5)  Map  of  the  Road  to  the  Pyramids  {l :  125,000)  ...      105 


X  MAPS  AND  PLANS. 

Page 

6.  Suruey  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Cairo  (1 :  250,000;  show- 
ing Extent  of  Special  Maps) 119 

7.  Map  of  the  Suez  Canal  (1  :  500,000) 185 

8.  Map  of  the  Oulf  of  Suez  (1  :  150,000),  with  (9)   Map  of 

the  Springs  of  Moses  (1  :  50,000)    ' 187 

10.  Map  of  the  FaiyUm  (i:bOO,000) 190 

11.  Map  of  the  Nile  from  Cairo  to  Benihasan  (1  :  500,000)      .  205 

12.  Map  of  the  Nile  from  Benihasan  to  (Baliana)  Nag'  Ha- 
madj  (1 :  500,000)    .    .    .    .' 231 

13.  Map  of  the  Nile  from  Nag'  Hamddi  to  Assudn  (1 :  500,000)  244 

14.  Survey  Map  of  Thebes  (1  :  50,000) 254 

15.  Map  of  the  Envirom  of  Assudn  (1  :  100,000) 353 

16.  Map  of  the  Island  of  Philae  (1 :  8030) 364 

17.  Map  of  the  NileValley  from  Cairo  to  Assudn  (1 :  5,000,000; 

the  Western  Oases) 378 

18.  Map  of  the  Nile  from  Assudn  to  Wddi  Haifa  (1 : 1,000,000), 
with  (19)  Map  of  the  Environs  of  Wddi  Haifa  as  far  as 

the  Second  Cataract  (1  :  250,000)    .    .    .   '. 387 

20.   Map  of  the  Environs  of  KhartHm  and  Omdurmdn 

(1 :  500,0001 ■ 426 

1i.  Map  of  the  Southern  Saddn  (i -.[0,000,000) 432 

22,  General  Map  of  Egypt  (1  :  10,000,000,  showing  lixtent  of 

Special  Maps),  after  the  Index. 

Flans. 

1.  Section  of  the  Step  Pyramid  of  Sakkdra clxix 

2.  Arabian  Dwelling  House:  Ground  Floor olxxxiv 

3.  Arabian  Dwelling  House:  First  Floor clxxxv 

4.  Plan  of  Alexandria  (1 :  18,000),  with  (5)  Plan  of  the  Inner 
Town  (1 :  10,000) 9 

6.  Plan  of  Ancient  Alexandria,   100  B.C.  -  100  A.D. 

(1  :  58,800) 12' 

7.  Plan  of  Ancient  Alexandria  in  the   3rd-5tli  cent,  after 
Christ  (1  :  58,800) 13 

8.  Catacombs  of  Kom  esh-Shakdfa 17 

9.  Graeco-Roman  Museum  at  Alexandria 22 

10.  Plan  of  Ramleh  (1 :  40,000) 25 

11.  Plan  of  Cairo  (_i -.12,300) 35 

12.  Mosque  of  El-Azhar  (Arabian  University;  1  :  1250)     .    .  57 

13.  Mosque  of  El-Muaiyad  (1  :  1500) 60 

14.  Arabian  Museum  at  Cairo 63 

15.  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan 67 

16.  Mosque  of  Mohammed  AU 69 

17.  Mosque  of  Ibn  Tulun 72 

18.  Egyptian 'Museum  at  Cairo 81 

19.  Plan  of  Old  Cairo  (^i  -.7150 ) 106 


PLANS.  xl 

Page 

20.   Church  of  Ahu  Sergeh,  a.t  Old  C&ixo 108 

2i.  Plan  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  {1:12,500) HI 

22.  Tomb  Mosque  of  Sultan  BarMk 112 

23.  Tomb  Mosque  of  Kait  Bey  .' .' 114 

24.  Plan  of  the  Pyramids  of  Gtzeh  (1  :  13,560) 123 

25.  Section  of  the  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh 127 

26.  Section  of  the  Second  Pyramid  of  Gtzeh 132 

27.  Section  of  the  Third  Pyramid  of  Gheh 134 

28.  Valley  Temple  of  Khephren 136 

29.  Plan  of  the  Buins  of  Memphis  (i:  20,000) 143 

30.  Plan  of  the  Pyramids  and  Tombs  of  Sakkdra  and  Abuih 
(1:25,000) \    .    ." ■  .  145 

31 .  Sernpeum  at  Sakkdra 148 

32.  Mastaba  of  Ti  ." 150 

33.  Mastaba  of  Mereruka 160 

34.  Mastaba  of  Ke-gem-ni 162 

35.  Mastaba  of  Ptahhotep 164 

36.  Plaiiof  Helioan{i:2b,000) 169 

37.  88.   Plans   of  the  Harbour  aiid  the   Toirn   of  Port  Sa'td 
(1:50,000  and  1:25,000) 177 

39.  Plan  of  Suez  (1:25,000) 187 

40.  Family  Tomb  of  AmenopMs  IV. 217 

41.  Plan  of  Abydos  (i  :  iA,600) 238 

42.  Temple  of  Sethos  I.  at  Abydos  (i  :  UIG) ^  239 

43.  Temple  of  Hathor  at  Dendera  (1  :  685) 246 

44.  45,  46.   Crypts  of  the  Temple  at  Dendera  (1  :  685)     .    .248,  249 

47.  Plan  of  Luxor  (i  -.10,000) 251 

48.  Temple  of  Luxor  (1  :  lOQl) 258 

49.  Temple  of  Khons  at  Karnak 263 

50.  Sketch  Plan  of  Karnak  (1  :  4000) 264 

51.  Temple  of  Ammon  at  Karnak  {I  :  i'dOi) 265 

52.  Plan  of  the  Necropolis  of  Thebes  (1  :  19,000),  with  (53)  Plan 

of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings  at  Blbdn  el-Muluk  (1 :  10,000)  '281 

54.  Temple  of  Sethos  L  at  Kurna ,    .  282 

55.  Tomb  of  Ramses  IV.    .' 286 

56.  Tomb  of  Ramses  IX 287 

57.  Tomb  of  Amenephthes 287 

58.  Tomb  of  Ramses  VI 288 

59.  Tomb  of  Ramses  III 289 

60.  Tomb  of  Sethos  1 292 

61.  Tomb  of  Thutmom  III 296 

62.  Tomb  of  Amenophis  II 297 

63.  Tomb  of  Thutmosis  1 297 

64.  Temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri 299 

65.  The  Ramesseum  (1  :  1200) 806 

66.  Tomb  of  liekhmere 310 


xli  VIGNETTES. 

Page 

67.  Tomb  of  Sennofer 310 

68.  Tomb  of  Amenemheb 311 

69.  Tomb  of  Nakht 314 

70.  Temple  of  Deir  el- Medlneh 317 

71.  TombofHuye 318 

72.  Tomb  of  Queen  Titi 320 

73.  Tomb  of  Prince  Amen-her-khopshef 321 

74.  Tomb  of  Ne fret- ere  Mi-en-Mut 321 

75.  Temple  of  Medlnet  Habu  (1  :  2300) 322 

76.  Rock  Chapel  of  Gebel  Silsileh 339 

77.  Temple  of  Horm  at  Edfu 344 

78.  Temple  of  Kom  Ombo 350 

79.  Plan  of  Assuan  (1  :  25,000) 353 

80.  Temple  of  Isls  on  Philne  (I  :  1006) 365 

81.  Temple  of  Kaldhsheh 390 

82.  Temple  of  Gerf-Hvsein 394 

83.  Great  Temple  of  Abu  Simbel 405 

84.  Temple  of  Hathor  at  Ahu  Simbel 409 

85.  Plan  of  Kliariam  and  Omdurman  [1  :  60,000) 426 

Vignettes. 

1.  Egyptian  Coins xvi 

2.  Mohammedan  Posttires  of  Prayer Isxxvii 

3.  Cartouches  of  Egyptian  Kings (jxxxiii-uxxxix 

4-23.   Mythological  Illustrations cliii-clvi 

24-30.  Art  Illustrations clviii-clx,  clxLv,  clxxii 

31,  32.  Water  Carrier*  (Sakka,  Hemali) "/       48 

33.  Public  Kitchen ' 49 

34.  /Iranian  Barber 49 

35-54.  Reliefs  in  the  Mastaba  of  Ti,  at  Sakkara   ....      151-158 
55.  Hypostyle  Hall  at  Karnak  f  reconstruction,  after  Maspero)     269 


xlii 


I.    Preliminary  Inforaiation. 

(1).    Plan  of  Tour.    Season.   Expenses.   Money.  Equipment. 
Travelling  Companions. 

Plan.  The  intending  visitor  to  Egypt  may  make  an  outline  of 
his  tour  at  home  with  as  great  ease  as  for  any  of  the  countries  of 
Europe.  A  glimpse  of  the  country  may  he  obtained  in  4  or  5  weeks 
(exclusive  of  the  journey  out")  as  follows:  2  days  may  be  devoted 
to  Alexandria  and  the  journey  thence  to  Cairo  —  travellers  landing 
at  Port  Sa'id  should  take  the  first  train  to  Cairo,  as  the  town  is 
uninteresting  —  10  days  may  be  spent  in  Cairo  and  its  neighbour- 
hood (pp.  35  et  seq.),  12  days  suffice  for  the  railway-journey  to  As- 
suan  and  back  (or  20  days  by  a  tourist-steamer),  and  3  days  may  be 
given  to  Assuaii  (p.  353),  while  a  few  days  must  be  set  aside  for 
resting.  An  excursion  to  the  Faiyum  (R.  14)  or  to  the  oasis  of 
Khargeh  (p.  379)  takes  3-4  days.  —  An  expedition  to  Upper  Nubia 
(from  Assuan  to  Wadi  Haifa  and  back)  requires  7  days  by  tourist- 
steamer  (see  p.  384) ;  but  if  the  quicker  government  steamer  (p.  383) 
is  used  and  the  railway  from  "Wadi  Haifa,  the  excursion  can  be  ex- 
tended to  Khartum  (p.  420)  within  almost  the  same  period.  A  month 
should  be  allowed  for  tlie  steamer-trip  from  Khartum  to  Gondokoro 
(Rejaf)  and  bai-k  (p.  434),  and  4  days  for  the  return  from  Khartum 
to  Suez  via  Port  Sudan  (R.  33). 

Season.  The  best  time  for  a  tour  in  Egypt  is  between  Nov.  1st 
and  Maylst,  .Tan.  to  March  being  the  most  crowded  period.  In 
Alexandria  stormy  and  rainy  weather  very  often  prevails  from 
December  to  March,  but  in  the  interior  of  Egypt,  to  the  S.  of 
a  line  joining  Dainanliijr,  Tanta,  and  Mansura,  the  case  is  con- 
siderably altered.  JCven  in  the  Delta,  however,  marked  falls  in 
temperature  (sometimes  to  43"  Fahr.)  occur  between  the  end  of 
November  and  the  end  of  Marcli,  and  rain-storms,  rendering  the 
roads  almost  impassable,  are  not  infrequent.  In  Cairo  December, 
January,  and  sometimes  February  are  distinctly  chilly,  which  is  the 
more  inconvenient  as  there  are  no  adequate  heating-arrangements 
in  the  houses ;  but  November  and  March  are  very  fine,  as  also 
usually  are  October,  April,  and  May,  especially  for  travellers  who 
do  not  object  to  a  little  heat.  In  Upper  Egypt,  from  the  beginning  of 
November  till  the  middle  or  end  of  April,  the  prevalent  weather  is 
that  of  a  delicious  spring  or  moderate  summer.  Those  who  intend  to 
winter  in  Egypt  should  spend  November  in  Cairo,  move  on  thence  in 
December,  on  the  approach  of  cold  weather,  to  Upper  Egypt  (Luxor, 
Assuan),  and  return  to  Cairo  in  February.  —  In  summer  prices  are 
naturally  much  lower,  but  most  of  the  larger  hotels  are  closed. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  a  tour  in  Egypt,  and  in  oriental  coun- 
tries generally,  is  greater  than  that  of  a  visit  to  most  parts  of  Europe, 
and  the  traveller  should  estimate  his  average  daily  expenditure  at 


Xiy  I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.    1.  Equipment. 

not  less  than  25-30«.  (Steamboat  and  railway  fares  are  of  course 
extra;  pp.  1-6.)  The  traveller  whose  time  is  very  limited,  or  who 
is  accompanied  by  ladies,  will  require  also  the  services  of  a  guide, 
or  'dragoman'  (p.  xxv;  5-lOa.  per  day).  With  modest  requirements, 
however,  it  is  possible  to  live  more  cheaply. 

Money.  A  small  sum  of  money  for  the  early  part  of  the  journey 
may  be  taken  in  English  or  French  gold,  but  large  sums  should 
always  be  in  the  form  of  letters  of  credit  or  circular  notes.  These 
are  issued  by  the  principal  London  banks  and  by  Messrs.  Thos. 
Cook  &  Son.  Travellers  proceeding  to  Upper  Egypt  may  deposit 
these  notes  in  Cairo  and  have  supplies  sent  after  them,  as  required, 
by  money  orders.  European  bankers  in  Alexandria  and  Cairo,  see 
pp.  10,  37.  The  National  Bank  of  Egypt  has  branches  or  agents  in 
most  Egyptian  towns  and  also  in  Khartum,  Suakin,  and  Port  Sudan. 
The  cheques  issued  by  the  American  Express  Companies,  the  Ameri- 
can Bankers'  Association,  and  the  International  Navigation  Co.  are 
convenient  also.  —  For  Money  Orders,  see  p.  xix. 

Equipment.  For  all  ordinary  purposes  a  couple  of  light  tweed 
suits,  a  few  flannel  and  soft  cotton  shirts,  a  supply  of  thin  woollen 
socks,  one  pair  of  light  and  easy  boots,  one  of  shoes,  and  one  of 
slippers,  a  moderately  warm  ulster  or  long  travelling  cloak,  a  pith 
helmet  and  a  soft  felt  hat  or  a  straw  hat,  together  with  the  most 
necessary  articles  of  the  toilet,  will  amply  suffice.  Evening  dress  is 
usually  worn  at  dinner  at  the  principal  hotels.  Riding-breeches 
and  gaiters  are  convenient  for  excursions.  All  articles  should  be 
new  and  strongly  made,  as  it  is  often  difficult  to  get  repairs  properly 
executed  in  Egypt.  I'cw  travellers  walk  in  Egypt,  except  for  very 
short  distances,  but  sportsmen  should  add  a  stout  pair  of  waterproof 
shooting-boots  to  their  ciiuipmcnt. 

Among  the  most  important  extras  to  be  brought  from  Europe  are  a 
drinking-cup  of  leather  or  metal,  »  flask,  a  strong  pocket-knife,  a  thermo- 
meter, a  pocket-compass,  a  lield-glass,  and  an  electric,  acetylene,  or' mag- 
nesium lamp  for  lighting  caverns  and  dark  chambers.  —  Phutographic 
materials,  dry  plates,  film.s,  etc.,  can  be  obtained  in  Cairo,  but  it  is  pre- 
ferable to  bring  a  good  stock  carefully  packed  (films  in  air-tight  tin  cases) 
from  home,  taking  care  to  attend  the  customs  examination  in_  person. 
On  account  of  the  climate  photographs  should  be  developed  '  as  soon  as 
possible;  but  the  traveller  should  be  chary  of  entrusting  his  negative.s 
(particularly  in  the  case  of  Dims)  to  small  photograph  dealers. 

Companions.  The  facilities  for  travel  in  Egypt  are  now  such 
that  even  the  inexperienced  traveller  will  have  little^difflculty  in 
managing  an  independent  tour,  without  recourse  to  the  assistance 
of  tourist-agents  or  of  dragomans  (p.  xxv),  which  add  considerably 
to  the  cost.  —  In  spring  and  autumn  Tourist  Parties  are  organized 
for  a  visit  to  Egypt  and  the  East  by  the  tourist-agents  Afc.'srs.  Thos. 
Cook  <f  Son  (Ludgate  Circus,  London)  and  the  Hamburg  ^'  Anglo- 
American  Nile  Co.  (15  Cockspur  St.,  Loudon,  S.W.),  programmes  of 
which,  with  full  information,  may  be  obtained  free  on  application. 
Travellers  who  join  such  parties  are  enabled  to  inspect  the  principal 


5.  Coinage.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.  xt 

points  of  interest  with  the  minimum  expenditure  of  time  and  trouble, 
but  must  naturally  surrender,  to  a  great  extent,  both  their  freedom  of 
choice  of  companions  and  the  disposal  of  their  time.  The  expenses 
are  not  below  those  of  an  independent  tour. 

(2).  Coinage.  Passports.  Custom  House. 

Coinage  (comp.  the  illustrations  on  p.  xvl  and  the  tables  before 
the  title-page  and  at  the  end  of  the  book).  The  Egyptian  Pound  ('Livre 
Egyptienne';  £E)  is  worth  20s.  B'/irf.,  and  is  divided  into  1000  Mil- 
liemes  or  lOO  Piastres.  The  Arabic  name  for  the  piastre  is  Kirsh  (pi. 
Kurush;  pronounced  in  Cairo  ^irsh,  urusli),  but  the  European  name 
is  everywhere  current.  Travellers  should  note  the  distinction  that 
is  still  frequently  made  between  the  'great  piastre"  (kirsh  sdgh),  worth 
10  raillieraes,  and  the  'little  (or  half)  piastre'  (kirsh  la'rtfa) ,  worth 
f)  milliemes.  —  F]gyptian  gold  coins  are  .seldom  met  with,  their  place 
being  taken  by  the  British  sovereign  {Qineih  inglhi  =  97  pias.  i)  mill.) 
and  the  French  napoleon  (20  fr. ;  Bintu  =^  77  pias.  2  mill.,  but  reg- 
ularly reckoned  at  77  pias.),  both  of  whi<h  are  legally  current,  and 
by  the  banknotes  of  the  National  Bank  of  Egypt  (for  oO  pias.,  £  E  1, 
£  E  5,  £  E  10,  £  E  50,  and  £  E  100).  At  Alexandria  and  Suez,  and 
a  few  other  points,  reckoning  also  in  francs  is  still  common.  Where 
British  influence  is  strong,  and  especially  in  Cairo,  the  vfoxdShiliirxj 
.  is  used  for  the  Riib'  liiyOl^  which  is  equivalent  to  about  la.  ^/t^d.  Copper 
coins  (comp.  p.  iil  are  met  with  only  in  dealings  with  tlie  natives. 
All  the  Egyptian  roins  are  minted  at  Birmingham. 

A  liheral  supply  of  small  change  is  more  essential  in  (he  Kast  than 
anywhere  else  (comp.  pp.  x.xiv,  37).  When  obtaining  change,  travellers 
should  be  on  their  fjuard  against  counterfeit  or  depreciated  (i.e.  worn  or 
perforated)  pieces,  which  arc  common  enough. 

Passpoets  are  not  absolutely  necessary;  and  one's  visiting-card 
practically  serves  all  its  functions  in  the  interior.  Bankers,  however, 
freqtiently  require  strangers  to  (;st.Tblish  their  identity  by  some  such 
document;  and  the  countenance  and  help  of  consuls  also  must 
depend  upon  the  proof  of  nationality  offered  to  them  by  the  travelleT. 
—  Travellers  who  intend  to  proceed  to  Turkey  must  be  provided 
either  with  a  passport  vise  by  a  Turkish  consul  at  home  or  with  a 
tezkereh  (travelling  permit)  to  be  obtained  through  a  consul. 

Passports  may  be  obtained  in  Great  Britain  direct  from  the  Passport  De- 
partment of  the  Foreign  Office  (fee  2.^.)  or  through  any  nf  the  usual  tonrist- 
agents.  —  In  the  United  States  application  for  pas,<!iiorts  should  be  made 
to  the  Bureau  of  Citizenship,  State  De.partment,  Washington,  U.C. 

Custom  Housr.  Tourists'  luggage  is  subjected  to  a  custom- 
house examination  at  the  port  of  entry.  The  objects  chiefly  sought 
for  are  tobacco  and  cigars,  ou  which  a  somewhat  high  tax  is  levied 
(20  or  25  pias.  per  kilogramme  or  2'/5lbs.).  Unused  articles  are  sub- 
ject to  an  ad  valorem  duty  of  8  per  cent,  at  Alexandria  an  additional 
V2  V^^  <5®"^  ^s  charged  for  quay  and  paving  dues.  A  similar  duty  is 
levied  on  motor-cars,  cycles,  type-writing  machines,  and  tirearms 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     2.  Coinage. 
Egyptian  Coins 
Silver  Coins 


20 piastres  (riyal  masri;  ca.  is.)        10  piastres  (nusseh  riyal;  ca.  2t.) 


5  piastres 
(rub'  riyal; 


2  piastres 

(kirsbein ; 

ca.  5d.) 


1  piastre 

(kirsh  safsh 

ca.  2Vv<i.) 


Nickel  Coins 


1  piastre 

(kirsh  sagh; 

ca.  2%d.) 


'/z  piastre 

(kirsh  ta'rifa; 

ca.  Id!.) 


2  milliemes         1  millieme 
(ca.  1/2(^.1  (ca.  'A(i.) 


On  the  reverse  of  all  the  coins  is  the  name  of  the  sultan  in  ornamental 
floarisbes. 


3.  Conveyanceg.    I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.  xvii 

(p.  418),  but  the  amount  is  refunded  if  the  article  is  re-exported 
within  a  year,  on  production  of  the  customs  receipt  (certifloat  dii 
payement  de  droits  en  depot).  The  duty  is  paid  at  the  port  of  entry 
or  in  the  Bonded  Warehouse  in  Cairo.  In  case  of  difficulty  or  dis- 
pute one  of  the  higher  officials  should  be  appealed  to. 

Oood,  though  somewhat  expensive,  cigars  may  be  obtained  in  Cairo 
and  Alexandria.  The  importation  of  one's  own  cigars  is  attended  with  so 
much  trouble  as  hardly  to  be  worthwhile.  The  traveller  is  recommended 
to  content  himself  with  cigarettes  (comp.  p.  41).  Tobacco  (Ditkhkh&n)  should 
be  purchased  in  small  quantities  only,  as  it  gets  dry  very  soon. 

(3).    Conveyances. 

Steamers.  The  necessary  information  about  the  steamer-lines 
between  Europe  and  Egypt  is  given  at  pp.  1-6.  For  the  Nile 
steamers  to  Upper  Egypt,  see  p.  201  ;  to  Lower  Nubia,  seep.  383; 
in  the  Sudan,  see  p.  417. 

Bailways.  The  official  time-tables  are  published  in  the  Indi- 
cateurdes  Chemins  de  Fer  de  tEgypte,  which  is  sold  for  10  mill,  at  the 
chief  railway  stations,  at  the  Cairo  central  telegraph  office,  and  at 
the  booksellers'.  Time-tables  are  exhibited  also  in  the  larger  hotels. 
Tlie  railway-carriages  resemble  those  of  France  or  Italy.  First-class 
passengers  are  permitted  to  take  a  reasonable  qiiantity  of  small  lug- 
gage with  them  into  the  carriages.  The  second-class  carriages  arc 
comfortable  enough  for  day-journeys  on  the  main  routes  (Alexandria 
to  Cairo,  Cairo  to  Mansura,  Cairo  to  Port  Sa'id  or  Suez,  Cairo  to 
Assuan),  especially  by  the  express-trains  5  and  their  use  effects  a 
saving  of  50  per  cent  in  fares.  But  on  branch-lines  all  travellers 
should  take  flrst-class  tickets,  especially  at  night.  The  third-class 
carriages  are  quite  unsuited  for  Europeans. 

The  trains  are  not  much  slower  than  in  Europe  and  are  very 
punctual.  The  traveller  should  be  at  the  station  in  good  time,  espe- 
cially as  heavy  luggage  must  be  booked  '/4  hr.  before  tho  departure 
of  the  train.  The  luggage-tariff  is  somewhat  complicated.  Hand- 
luggage  up  to  55  lbs.  is  free.  The  cloak-room  charge  is  5  milliemes 
each  package  per  day.  Passenger- fares  are  calculated  on  a  zone- 
system,  applicable  to  both  express  and  slow  trains  (Istcl.  5  mill, 
per  kilomfitre  up  to  50  kil.;  51-100  kil.,  41/2  mill-  per  kil.;  above 
250  kil.,  21/2  mill- )•  Passenger-tickets  are  printed  in  French  and 
Arabic;  luggage-tickets  in  Arabic  only.  A  reduced  tariff  and  cheap 
return-tickets  are  in  use  on  the  lAgnes  de  Banlieue  or  suburban 
lines  (between  Cairo,  Kalyub,  and  the  Barrage  dn  Nil;  between 
Cairo,  Matariyeh,  and  El-Marg;  between  Suez  and  Suez  Docks; 
between  Alexandria,  Ramleh,  and  Abukir).  Return-tickets  at  a  re- 
duction of  5  per  cent  on  the  double  fare  are  issued  to  and  from  the 
larger  stations,  but  are  valid  for  4  days  only.  —  In  hot  weather  the 
dust,  which  penetrates  the  carriages  even  when  the  windows  are 
closed,  renders  railway  travelling  in  Egypt  exceedingly  unpleasant. 
At  the  chief  stations  on  the  express-routes  there  are  RaUivay  Buffets 

IUkoekkr's  Egypt.    7th  Kdit.  '5 


xviii  I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     4.  HnteU. 

(no  hot  viands).  At  other  stations  refreshments  are  bronght  to  the 
carriage-windows  (bargaining  necessary ;  2  oranges  Y2  pi^s.).  The 
water  offered  for  sale  should  be  abstained  from.  In  most  of  the 
express-trains  there  are  dining-cars  (B.  lO,  lunch  20,  0.25  pias.). 

Narrow  Gauge  Railways.  The  Egyptian  Light  Bailways  cover 
the  Delta  and  the  Faiyum  (p.  190}  with  a  network  of  lines,  which, 
though  of  little  importance  to  the  ordinary  tourist,  enable  the  busi- 
ness man,  the  explorer,  and  the  specialist  to  reach  various  remote 
points  with  comparative  ease. 

The  Cabs  (sing.  'araMyeK)  in  the  large  towns  are  generally  very 
good.  The  official  tariffs  are  exhibited  in  the  vehicles  and  are  ad- 
vertised in  the  'Indicateur  des  Chemins  de  Fer'  (see  p.  xvii).  At 
Alexandria  and  Cairo  there  are  also  Taximeter  Cabs  and  Taximeter 
Motor  Cabs.  The  latter  are  not  adapted  for  drives  outside  the  city 
except  on  good  roads.  The  cab-drivers  (comp.  pp.  xxiv,  39)  are 
unable  to  read  the  names  of  the  streets,  while  many  of  them  know 
the  various  points  only  by  names  of  their  own.  The  hotel-portier 
should  therefore  be  employed  as  interpreter.  The  traveller  should 
keep  his  eye  on  the  direction  taken  by  the  cab,  as  sometimes  the 
cabman  drives  straight  ahead  in  complete  ignorance  of  the  way  and 
requires  to  be  guided,  e.g.  by  being  touched  with  a  stick  on  the  right 
or  left  arm  according  to  the  turning,  or  with  the  words  yemtnak  (to 
the  right),  shimulak  (to  the  left),  dughri  (straight  on).  The  cabs 
usually  drive  rapidly,  so  that  their  use  saves  time  and  strength. 

Bonkeys  (sing.  Aomar)  are  found  everywhere.  The  better  ones 
belong  to  a  finer  race  than  the  European  breed.  In  Alexandria  and 
Cairo  they  are,  however,  not  used  by  Europeans  for  riding  within 
the  town.  In  the  towns  the  donkeys  are  generally  well  bridled  and 
saddled;  side-saddles  are  not  always  obtainable,  and  when  they  are 
an  extra  charge  of  5  pias.  is  sometimes  made  for  them.  The  pro- 
clivities of  the  donkey-boys  for  prodding  the  animals  with  pointed 
sticks  and  urging  them  to  gallop  should  be  sternly  repressed.  When 
a  slower  pace  is  desired  the  rider  shouts  'ala  mahlak  or  'ala  mahla- 
kum ;  if  a  quicker  pace  is  wanted,  yallah,  yallah,  or  mashsht,  or  suk 
el-homdr;  if  a  halt  is  to  be  made,  'andak,  hush^  or  the  English  word 
'stop'  (comp.  p.  xxiv). 

(4).  Hotels. 
In  Cairo  and  its  environs  and  at  Luxor  and  Assuan  (comp.  pp.  xxi, 
xxii)  there  are  hotels  quite  of  the  first  class,  though  perhaps  not 
equal  to  the  most  modern  establishments  in  Europe  and  America. 
There  are  good  hotels  also  at  Alexandria,  Port  Sa'ld,  and  a  few  other 
places.  They  are  managed  according  to  international  methods;  the 
waiters  and  chamber-maids  are  chiefly  German  or  Swiss,  while  the 
'boots'  are  generally  Nubians  (Barabra)  who  in  most  cases  under- 
stand one  or  several  European  languages.  As  on  the  American 
system  a  fixed  sum  daily  is  paid  for  lodging  and  board,  the  latter 


5.  Post  Office.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.  xi\ 

consisting  of  breakfast,  luncheon,  and  dinner.  Wine,  beer,  and 
other  liquors,  which  are  extras,  are  dear,  the  cheapest  wine  cost- 
ing 10-15  pias.  per  bottle  and  British  and  German  beer  5-6  pias. 
The  waiter's  fee  should  be  calculated  at  about  0  per  cent  of  the  bill. 
At  Pbnsioxs  the  average  charge  is  30-50  pias.  per  day,  or  £E  7-10 
per  month.  The  hotel-laundries  are  somewhat  expeusive  (tariff  at 
the  hotels);  the  Arab  'washermen'  are  very  good  and  mucli  cheaper. 
In  other  towns  the  hotels  are  much  inferior.  They  are  mostly 
kept  by  Greeks,  some  (in  the  Delta)  by  Italians;  the  charge  for  a 
night's  lodging  is  8-10  pias.  A  cafe'  or  bar  is  frequently  connected 
with  the  'hotel'  but  no  restaurant,  so  that  meals  have  to  be  taken 
in  a  neighbouring  eating-house. 


(5).  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. 

The  Egyptian  Postal  System  (pp.  10,  37)  is  well  organized  not 
only  in  all  the  principal  towns  but  also  in  the  smaller  towns  of 
tlie  Delta  and  Upper  Egypt.  The  addresses  of  letters  destined  for 
Kgypt  should  always  be  written  very  distinctly,  particularly  the 
initial  letters.  They  had  better  be  directed  to  the  hotel  at  which 
the  traveller  intends  to  stay,  or  they  may  be  sent  to  the  head  post- 
office  (Post  Office,  Poste  Kestaute)  in  Cairo,  in  which  case  the 
traveller  should  inform  the  officials  at  the  Bureau  de  Reuseigue- 
nients  by  letter  of  his  local  address,  and  his  letters  will  be  for- 
warded thither.  On  leaving  for  Upper  Egypt  travellers  shouM 
notify  the  postal  authorities  at  Cairo,  so  that  letters  may  be  punc- 
tually forwarded;  passengers  by  the  Nile  steamers  may  have  their 
correspondence  looked  after  by  the  steamboat- company.  —  Rt- 
gistered  Letters  are  not  delivered  to  the  addressee  unless  he  has  a 
passport  or  gets  a  resident  or  the  consular  kavass  (p.  xx)  to  testify  to 
liis  identity.  Registration  fee  5,  for  foreign  countries  10  milliemes. 
Tiio  Postage  for  letters  not  more  than  30  grammes  in  weight  within 
a  town  is  3  mil!.,  within  Egypt  5  mill.;  letters  not  exceeding 
20  grammes  to  Great  Britain  and  its  colonies  and  to  Italy  5  mill., 
to  other  countries  in  the  Postal  Union  10  mill. ;  domestic  Post  Cards 
2  mill.,  foreign  4  mill.  —  Parcels  not  exceeding  11  lbs.  in  weight 
may  be  sent  to  the  countries  of  the  Union,  and  must  be  accompanied 
by  two  declarations  (in  English  or  French).  An  export  duty  of  1  per 
cent  ad  valorem  is  charged  on  parcels  of  more  than  £  E  1  in  value. 
Parcels  not  exceeding  3  lbs.  may  be  sent  from  England  via  P.  &  O. 
steamer  for  Is.,  from  3  lbs.  to  7  lbs.  Is.  Dd.,  from  7  lbs.  to  11  lbs. 
2s.  Gd. ;  via  France  and  Italy  the  rates  are  2s.,  2s.  Qd..  os.  "Within 
Egypt  parcels  under  2V5  lbs.  cost  20  mill.,  under  68/5  lbs.  30  mill., 
up  to  11  lbs.  40  mill.  —  Money  Orders  up  to  40i.  may  be  sent  to 
Egypt  from  most  European  countries.  In  Groat  Britain  they  are 
issued  at  the  following  rates :  for  sums  not  exceeding  2l.,  Gd.-,  Gi., 
1«. ;  iOl.jia.Gd.  The  rate  of  exchange  is  taken  into  account.  Within 

b* 


XX  I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION,     ft.  Consulates. 

Egypt  money  orders  cost  3  mill,  per  £  E  1  (up  to  £  E  100),  to  the 
Sfldan  5  mill,  (minimum  in  either  case  10  mill.).  —  Further  par- 
ticulars will  be  found  in  the  official  Guide  Postal  Egyptien,  obtain- 
able at  any  post-office  for  30  mill.,  in  the  Indicateur  des  Chemins 
de  Fer  (p.  xvii),  or  in  the  Government  Almanac  (p.  xcv). 

Telegrams.  There  are  two  telegraph  -  systems  in  Egypt,  the 
Egyptian  and  the  English.  Messages  within  Egypt  may  be  sent  only 
by  the  former,  which  has  over  300  stations,  of  which  at  least  30  are 
open  day  and  night.  The  tariff  is  20  mill,  for  8  words  or  less,  and 
5  mill,  for  every  two  additional  words.  The  charge  for  urgent  tele- 
grams is  three  times  as  much.  Telegrams  may  be  sent  in  any  Euro- 
pean language ,  except  from  the  smaller  stations ,  where  Arabic 
messages  only  are  accepted.  —  Telegrams  to  Europe  and  America 
should  be  sent  by  the  English  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.,  via  Malta  and 
Vigo.  To  Europe  each  word  (not  exceeding  ten  letters ;  if  longer, 
it  counts  as  two  words)  costs  48  mill,  from  Lower  Egypt,  58  mill, 
from  Upper  Egypt,  63  mill,  from  the  Sudan.  —  A  telegram  from 
Great  Britain  to  Alexandria  costs  Is.  per  word;  to  other  parts  of 
Egypt  Is.,  1?.  lei.,  Is.  4d.  —  Further  particulars  will  be  found  in 
the  Telegraph  Guide  (2  pias.),  which  may  be  had  at  the  office  of  the 
government  telegraph  system  in  Cairo. 

Telephones.  There  are  exchanges  in  most  of  the  larger  towns, 
and  at  Cairo  and  Alexandria  there  are  public  call-offices  also. 
Charge  for  3  min.  conversation  50  mill.,  6  min.  100  mill. 


(6).   Public  Safety.    Consulates.    Courts  of  Justice. 

Public  Safety.  The  authority  of  the  Khedive  is  so  well  estab- 
lished throughout  Egypt  that  travellers  are  as  safe  as  in  Europe. 
Weapons  for  self-defence  are  an  unnecessary  encumbrance.  —  For 
information  concerning  firearms  and  ammunition,  see  p.  418. 

Consulates.  Consuls  in  the  East  enjoy  the  same  privilege  of 
exterritoriality  as  ambassadors  in  other  countries.  On  public  occa- 
sions they  are  attended  by  kavasses,  or  armed  consular  officers.  A 
distinction  is  sometimes  made  between  professional  ('consulesmissi') 
and  commercial  consuls  ;  and  there  are  consuls,  vice-consuls,  and 
consular  agents,  possessing  various  degrees  of  authority.  In  Egypt 
the  diplomatic  representatives  of  the  powers  are  known  as  consuls- 
general.  In  all  cases  of  emergency  the  traveller  should  apply  for 
advice  to  the  nearest  consul  of  his  country. 

There  are  no  consuls  within  the  Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan  (p.  415). 

Courts  of  Justice.  In  place  of  the  exclusive  consular  juris- 
diction to  which  foreigners  were  formerly  liable,  a  system  oi  Mixed 
Tribunals  was  established  in  1875.  The  judges  consist  of  natives 
and  foreigners  (the  latter  generally  appointed  by  the  Khedive  from 
qualified  officials  nominated  by  the  Great  Powers),  who  give  their 
verdicts  in  accordance  with  Egyptian  law,  founded  on  that  of  France 


7.  Health  Resorts.     1.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.         vxi 

and  Italy.  Even  cases  in  which  the  Khedive  himself  and  the  Egyp- 
tian government  are  concerned  are  tried  before  this  tribunal,  which 
includes  courts  of  first  and  second  instance.  The  courts  of  the  first 
instance  are  at  Cairo,  Alexandria,  and  Mansura,  and  there  is  a  dele- 
gation at  Port  Sa'id.  The  appeal-court  is  at  Alexandria.  Lists  of 
qualified  barristers  are  exhibited  in  the  anterooms  of  the  courts.  — 
Important  civil  cases  between  natives,  and  all  criminal  cases,  are 
tried  by  the  Native  Courts  (Central  Tribunals),  established  in  1883, 
situated  at  Cairo,  Alexandria,  Benisueif,  Assiiit,  Keneh,  Tanta,  and 
Zakazik.  These  form  also  the  tribunals  of  second  instance  for  the 
petty  misdemeanours  and  civil  suits  dealt  with  by  the  Summary 
Tribunals  (47  in  number).  In  addition  there  are  108  District  Courts 
(Markaz  Tribunals),  which  deal  with  civil  actions  and  with  criminal 
cases  not  involving  more  than  3  months'  imprisonment  or  a  fine  of 
more  than  £E  10.  The  appeal-court  for  important  cases  is  at  Cairo 
(at  the  Bab  el-Khalk);  about  half  the  number  of  its  judges  are  Euro- 
peans.   The  procedure  is  based  upon  the  Code  Napole'on. 

(7).  Egypt  as  a  Health  Resort.   Medical  Hints. 

Tip  Leigh  Canneii,  M.  I).  (Land.),  F.  R.  Met.  Soc. 

The  beneficial  influence  of  the  climate  of  Egypt  (coinp.  p.  Lxxvi) 
lias  been  known  since  the  Roman  period  at  least,  and  of  late  years 
an  increasing  number  of  visitors  have  flocked  to  the  Nile  to  enjoy 
the  benefits  of  its  remarkably  dry  winter-climate.  Phthisis  (if  not 
too  far  advanced  and  if  the  patient  has  a  sound  heart  and  little  or 
110  fever),  asthma,  chronic  bronchitis,  Bright's  disease,  rheumatoid 
arthritis:,  gout,  and  diseases  of  the  kidneys  are  some  of  the  most 
important  ailments  that  are  at  least  alleviated  by  a  visit  to  Egypt. 
Invalids  should  remember  that  a  stay  of  a  few  weeks  only  is  not 
sufficient,  and  should  remain  from  the  beginning  of  November  to 
the  end  of  March.  In  deciding  which  of  the  health-resorts  in  Egypt 
a  given  case  should  be  sent  to,  the  physician  must  of  course  consider 
whether  or  not  warmth  must  be  secured  along  with  dryness  of  air, 
whether  purity  of  air  alone  or  also  a  bright  stimulating  climate  is 
to  be  specially  sought,  and  whether  cold  winds  and  blowing  sand 
are  harmful  or  not.  It  is  advisable  in  all  cases  to  secure  the  advice 
of  the  physician  resident  at  the  spot  selected. 

Cairo  itself  cannot  properly  be  considered  a  health-resort.  The 
presence  of  a  large  city  with  its  noise  and  bustle,  the  higher  rela- 
tive humidity,  owing  to  the  N.  wind  and  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Delta,  and  other  causes,  all  combine  to  compel  those  who  seek  health 
from  the  climate  of  Egypt  to  look  to  other  stations.  There  are,  how- 
ever, excellent  health-resorts  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  capi- 
tal, such  as  the  Mena  House  Hotel,  the  Oasis  of  New  Heliopolis,  and 
Helwan.  Luxor  and  (still  better)  AssuCin,  in  Upper  Egypt,  offer  still 
more  favourable  climatic  conditions. 


xxii        I.   PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     7.  Health  Rcforts. 

Mena  House  Hotel  (p.  36),  8  M.  to  the  W.  of  Cairo,  stands  near 
the  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh ,  on  the  verge  of  the  Libyan  Desert. 
The  mean  maximum  temperature  is  69°  Fahr.  in  Dec,  66°  in  Jan., 
72°  in  Feb.,  74°  in  March,  and  80°  in  April.  The  mean  minimum 
for  the  four  months  Dec.  to  March  is  50°.  The  daily  range  of  tem- 
perature is  21°.  The  relative  humidity  (i.e.  the  amount  of  moisture, 
in  relation  to  the  temperature  at  the  time,  that  the  air  holds  out  of 
a  possible  100  per  cent)  from  Dec.  to  March  is  58  per  cent  by  day 
(8  a.m.  to  6  p.m.)  and  80  per  cent  at  night  (8  p.m.  to  0  a.m.). 
Dew  falls  in  -winter  on  about  two  nights  out  of  three.  At  both  Mena 
House  and  Helwan  the  prevailing  winds  and  the  amount  of  rain  are 
probably  much  the  same  as  in  Cairo.  The  purity  of  the  air  at  both 
places  is  marked ;  the  medical  and  sanitary  arrangements  are  ex- 
cellent. —  The  Oasis  of  New  Heliopolis  (p.  119),  founded  as  a  health- 
resort  a  few  years  ago,  possesses  similar  advantages. 

Helwan  (p.  167),  17  M.  to  the  S.  of  Cairo  and  3  M.  from  the 
cultivated  land,  is  115  ft.  above  the  river.  The  mean  maximum 
temperature  is  70°  in  Dec,  67°  in  Jan.,  73°  in  Feb.,  and  76°  in 
March.  The  mean  minimum  for  these  four  months  is  50°.  The  daily 
range  of  temperature  is  here  also  21°.  The  relative  humidity  from 
Dec.  to  March  is  47  per  cent  by  day,  66  per  cent  at  night.  —  Helwan 
has  the  advantage  "f  being  in  the  desert  in  a  pure  atmosphere. 
It  also  has  warm^  )hurated  and  saline  springs,  richer  in  natural 
constituents  thar  '  corresponding  springs  at  Aix-les-Bains,  Harro- 
gate, Buxton,  L  The  cases  suitable  for  the  baths  here  are  such 
as  would  derive  ,  .eflt  from  hydro-therapeutic  treatment  as  carried 
on  at  Harrogate,  ^ath,  Aix,  etc.;  of  late  years  Helwan  has  been 
especially  recommended  to  sufferers  from  kidney- diseases,  and 
suitable  diet  is  provided  at  all  the  hotels  and  pensions. 

Luxor  (p.  251)  is  situated  about  400  M.  to  the  S.  of  Cairo,  in 
the  Theban  plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  The  prevailing 
winds  are  N.W.  and  N.,  as  in  the  whole  country.  The  mean  maxi- 
mum temperature  is  76°  in  Dec,  74°  in  Jan.,  78°  in  Feb.,  and  85" 
in  March.  The  mean  minimum  for  these  four  months  is  50°.  The 
relative  humidity  is  41  per  cent  by 'day,  64  per  cent  at  night.  —  In 
addition  to  the  advantage  of  its  warm  and  dry  climate  Luxor  has  an 
almost  inexhaustible  interest  in  its  numerous  antiquities,  temples, 
and  tombs.  —  The  temperature  is  7-9°  warmer  than  at  Mena  House 
and  Helwan.  The  importance  of  the  extra  warmth  of  Upper  Egypt 
must  not  be  lost  sight  of,  in  cases  where  it  is  imperative  that  the 
action  of  the  skin  should  be  at  its  highest  level  —  especially  as  with 
this  warmth  a  bracing  effect  is  obtained  from  the  dryness  of  the  air. 

Assudn  (p.  353),  situated  at  the  First  Cataract,  also  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river,  is  the  dryest  of  the  Egyptian  liealtTi-xesorts  and 
may  be  specially  recommended  in  winter,  when  N.  Egypt  is  often 
decidedly  chilly.  The  prevailing  winds  are,  as  at  Luxor,  N.W.  and 
N.  in  winter.  The  mean  maximum  temperature  is  78°  in  Dec,  74^/2° 


7.  Medical  Hints.     1.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.        xxiii 

ill  Jan.,  82"  in  Feb.,  and  91"  in  March.  The  mean  minimum  lor 
these  four  months  is  55°;  and  the  relative  humidity  is  35  per  cent 
by  day,  49  per  cent  at  night.  —  Assuan  is  more  under  the  immediate 
influence  of  the  desert;  the  air  is  bracing,  although  about  5"  warmer 
than  at  Luxor.  The  beauty  of  the  surroundings  lends  a  peculiar 
charm  to  Assuan.  —  The  accomii;odation  for  invalids  is  very  good. 

Patients  should  not  leave  Upper  Egypt  until  the  middle  of  April, 
ou  account  of  the  cold  N.  wind.  They  will  find  at  Athens,  Corfu, 
Sicily,  and  Capri  and  other  points  near  Naples  admirable  transition- 
stations  in  spring. 

Medical  Hints.  Re  vaccination  is  a  safeguard  to  travellers  in 
I'-gypt ,  if  not  already  performed  within  six  years.  Special  care 
-should  be  taken  to  avoid  eye-trouble,  and  it  is  inadvisable  to  allow 
one's  field-glass  to  be  used  by  strangers,  especially  natives,  for  fear 
of  infection.  Those,  too,  who  come  into  contact  with  natives  should 
avoid  rubbing  their  eyes  with  their  hands.  A  useful  precaution 
is  to  bathe  the  eyes  regularly  with  boracic  acid  lotion  (3  per  cent), 
especially  on  dusty  days  or  after  excursions.  Visitors  to  Upper  Egypt 
should  have  spectacles  with  grey  glasses.  —  Against  sunstroke, 
which,  however,  is  rare  in  the  winter  months,  the  best  protection  is 
afforded  by  broad-brimmed  hats ,  sunshades,  or  cloths  tied  round 
the  hat  so  as  to  fall  down  over  the  back  of  the  neck.  A  pith  helmet 
with  a  large  flap  to  protect  the  neck  may  be  recommended  also. 
The  remedies  for  headache  resulting  from  {  'Stroke  are  rest  and 
shade;  the  clothing  should  at  once  be  loos  "v^V  and  cold  appli- 
cations made  to  the  head  and  neck.  ■  '^'^ 

Colds  are  frequently  followed  by  fever  or  bf  i/iarrhu;a,  which  is 
apt  to  develop  into  dysentery.  Cold  or  iced  drii  -  shbuld  be  avoided, 
also  unpeeled  fruit  and  green  salads.  Water  and  milk  should  never 
be  drunk  unboiled,  for  fear  of  typhoid.  In  cases  of  diarrhoea  meat 
should  be  avoided  and  a  simple  farinaceous  diet  adopted  ;  the  bev- 
erages should  be  milk  and  soda-water.  There  are  European  doctors 
at  Cairo,  Alexandria,  Helvvan,  Luxor,  Assuan,  etc.,  also  on  board  most 
of  the  tourist-steamers. 

Sprains  are  most  effectually  treated  with  cold  compresses,  while 
the  injured  limb  should  be  tightly  bandaged.  —  The  sting  of  a 
scorpion  is  relieved  by  immediately  applying  ammonia ;  strong  doses 
of  alcohol  may  be  administered  internally. 

Travellers  should  be  careful  to  pay  attention  to  the  daily  changes 
of  temperature  (^p.  Ixxvii),  particularly  at  sunset  in  cultivated  dis- 
tricts, when  the  air  cools  very  quickly  and  colds  are  easily  caught. 
Warmer  clothing  or  a  cloak  is  useful  till  11  a.m.,  then  lighter 
clothing  till  nearly  sunset,  when  the  cloak  should  be  resumed.  The 
hour  for  returning  to  the  hotel  varies  with  the  place  and  the  month, 
being  earliest  in  Jan.  and  latest  in  March  and  April.  If  the  traveller 
be  guided  by  the  relative  humidity,  it  would  be  earliest  at  Mena 
House,  say  about  sunset;  a  little  later  at  lielwan;  at  Luxor  still 


xxiv      I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.    8.  Native  Manners. 

later,  6  p.m.  (except  in  Jan.),  and  8  p.m.  in  March;  and  latest  of 
all  at  Assuan,  —  it  being  always  understood  that  precautions  as  to 
extra  clothing  have  been  taken.  —  Those  who  are  not  invalids,  and  in 
some  cases  invalids  also,  may  sleep  with  the  windows  open  with  safety. 
Those  who  wish  to  take  a  small  Medicine  Chest  with  them,  a  pro- 
ceeding strongly  recommended  to  anyone  making  long  independent  ex- 
cursions, should  consult  their  physician  at  home  as  to  the  best  medi- 
caments with  which  to  stock  it.  The  following  suggestions  may,  however, 
be  useful:  for  fever.  Quinine  in  pills  or  something  of  that  nature;  for 
chronic  constipation,  castor-oil;  for  diarrhoea  (or  dysentery),  first  an  aper- 
ient then  Bismuth  (in  cachets);  for  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  an  Eye  Lotion 
(made  from  a  doctor's  prescription)  and  a  glass  for  dropping  it  in;  for 
stings,  Ammonia;  for  external  injuries,  Cotton  Wool  for  bandaging.  Subli- 
mate Paiiilles  and  Iodoform  as  disinfectants,  and   Collodion. 


(8).  Intercourse  with  Orientals.    Dragomans. 

The  average  Oriental  regards  the  European  traveller  as  a  CrtBsus, 
therefore  as  fair  game,  and  feels  justified  in  pressing  upon  him  with 
a  perpetual  demand  for  bakshish  (bakshish),  which  simply  means 
'a  gift'.  The  number  of  beggars  is  enormous,  but  they  arc  not 
nearly  so  importunate  as  those  in  Italy  and  elsewhere.  Travellers 
are  often  tempted  to  give  for  the  sake  of  affording  temporary  pleasure 
at  a  trifling  cost,  forgetting  that  the  seeds  of  insatiable  cupidity  are 
thereby  sown,  to  the  infinite  annoyance  of  their  successors  and  the 
demoralization  of  the  recipients  themselves.  Bakshish  should  never 
be  given  except  for  services  rendered,  or  to  the  aged  and  crippled  5 
and  the  Government  appeals  to  the  tourist  by  public  placards  not 
to  encourage  the  habit  of  begging.  A  beggar  may  be  silenced  with 
the  words  'al  Allah  or  Allah  yehannin  'aleik  (God  have  mercy  on 
thee!)  or  Allah  ya'tik  (may  God  give  thee! J.  The  best  reply  for 
more  importunate  cases  is  md  fish,  md  fish  (I  have  nothing  for  you) 
or  mafish  bakshish  (there  is  no  present),  which  will  generally  have 
the  effect  of  dispersing  the  assailants  for  a  time. 

It  is,  of  course,  inevitable  that  coachmen,  guides,  donkey-boys, 
and  the  like  should  expect  a  gratuity  in  addition  to  the  stipulated 
fee  for  their  services,  and  the  traveller  should  therefore  take  care  to 
be  amply  supplied  with  small  Change  at  all  times,  and  especially 
with  pieces  of  half  a  piastre  (comp.  pp.  xv,  37).  Payment  should 
never  be  made  until  the  service  stipulated  for  has  been  rendered, 
after  which  an  absolutely  deaf  ear  should  be  turned  to  the  pro- 
testations and  entreaties  which  almost  invariably  follow.  Even  when 
an  express  bargain  has  been  made,  and  more  than  the  stipulated 
sum  paid,  they  are  almost  sure  to  pester  the  traveller  in  the  way 
indicated.  When  no  bargain  has  been  made,  the  fees  and  prices 
mentioned  in  the  Handbook,  all  of  which  are  ample,  should  be  paid 
without  remark ;  and  if  the  attacks  which  ensue  are  not  silenced  by 
an  air  of  calm  indifference  the  traveller  may  use  the  word  ruh  or 
imshi  (be  off!)  or  uskut  (be  quiet!)  in  a  quiet  but  decided  and  im- 


6'.  Drayoinam.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.  xxv 

perative  tone.  At  the  same  time  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  in- 
creasing number  of  visitors  to  Egypt  tends  to  raise  prices  during 
the  chief  travelling  season,  so  that  a  larger  bakshish  than  is  men- 
tioned in  the  Handbook  may  sometimes  be  necessary. 

While  much  caution  and  firmness  are  desirahle  in  dealing  with 
the  people,  it  need  hardly  be  added  that  the  traveller  should  avoid 
being  too  exacting  or  suspicious.  He  should  hear  in  mind  that 
many  of  the  natives  with  whom  he  comes  in  contact  are  mere 
children,  whose  demands  should  excite  amusement  rather  than 
anger,  and  who  often  display  a  touching  simplicity  and  kindliness 
of  disposition.  The  native  communities  hold  together  with  remark- 
able faithfulness,  and  the  hond  of  a  common  religion,  which  takes 
the  place  of  'party'  in  other  countries,  and  reijuires  its  adherents 
to  address  each  other  as  'i/«  akhiiya  (my  brother),  is  far  more  than 
a  mere  name.  On  the  other  hand,  intimate  acquaintance  with  Orien- 
tals is  to  be  avoided,  especially  with  the  dragomans,  who  sometimes 
presume  on  their  opportunities  of  social  intercourse  (comp.  below). 
In  Lower  Egypt  travellers  can  usually  make  themseWes  understood 
in  French  or  Italian;  in  Upper  Egypt  English  is  more  useful. 
A  good  deal  can  usually  he  done  by  signs. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  suggestions  we  have  ventured  to  offer, 
the  traveller  will  to  some  extent  have  to  buy  his  experience,  in 
most  cases  the  overcharges  to  which  he  will  he  exposed  will  be 
comparatively  trifling;  hut  if  extortion  is  attempted  on  a  larger 
scale  he  had  better  refer  the  matter  to  his  consul  or  the  police. 

For  the  tours  described  in  this  book  the  services  of  a  Dragoman 
(  Arab.  Turguman)  may  easily  be  disj)cnsed  with,  even  by  those  less 
accustomed  to  travelling.  They  are  useful,  however,  for  those  who 
wish  to  see  as  much  as  possible  in  a  very  short  time.  Only  well 
recommended  dragomans  should  be  engaged,  preferably  those  for 
whom  the  hotels  assume  some  responsibility.  They  must  be  treated 
from  the  lirst  as  servants  and  all  familiarity  should  be  discouraged. 
The  dragomans  arc  with  few  exceptions  quite  uneducated,  without 
the  least  knowledge  of  the  historic  or  a'sthetic  significance  of  tlie 
monuments;  and  their  'explanations'  of  them  are  only  too  often 
merely  garbled  versions  df  what  they  have  picked  up  from  guide- 
books or  from  the  remarks  of  previous  travellers. 

Those  who  wish  to  make  long  tours  in  the  desert  or  hunting 
excursions  are  advised  to  consult  residents  learned  in  these  matters. 
The  tourist-agents  also  can  sometimes  give  good  advice,  and  the 
necessary  outfit  (tents,  kitchen  utensils,  etc.)  may  be  bought  or 
hired  through  them.  —  For  sporting  and  other  expeditions  in  the 
Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan,  see  pp.  417,  418. 

On  the  successful  terminatiun  of  the  journey  travellers  are  tuo  apt 
from  motives  of  good  nature  to  write  a  more  favourable  testimonial  for 
their  dragoman  than  he  really  deserves;  but  this  is  truly  an  act  of  in- 
justice to  his  subsequent  employers.  The  testimonial  therefore  should 
not  omit  to  mention  any  serious  c;iusc  lor  dissatisfaction. 


xx.vi       I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     9.  Arabian  Cafes. 

(^9).  Arabian  Cafes.    Story  Tellers.    Musicians.    Singers- 
Shadow  Flays.    Baths. 

Arabian  Cafes  (sing,  kahwa)  are  frequeuted  by  the  lower  classes 
almost  exclusively.  The  front  consists  of  woodwork  with  a  few  open 
arches.  Outside  the  door  generally  runs  a  mastaba,  or  raised  seat 
of  stone  or  brick,  covered  with  mats,  and  there  are  similar  seats 
in  the  interior.  Coffee  is  served  by  the  kaliwagi  at  1/4-I  pias.  per  cup 
(fingdn),  and  several  nargUeU  or  shhheh  and  gozeh  (water-pipes) 
are  kept  in  readiness  for  the  use  of  customers.  The  tumbdk  (Per- 
sian tobacco)  smoked  in  the  gozeh  is  sometimes  mixed  with  the 
intoxicating  hashhh  (hemp,  Cannabis  Indica),  which  has  an  un- 
mistakable smell.  The  importation  and  sale  of  hashish  are  prohi- 
bited in  Egypt ;  it  is  therefore  smuggled  in  in  the  most  artful  ways. 

Story  Tellers  (who  in  private  domestic  circles  are  generally 
women)  are  still  a  characteristic  oriental  institution.  Wherever 
they  make  their  appearance,  whether  in  the  public  streets  or  the 
coffee-house,  in  the  densely  peopled  alleys  of  the  large  towns  or  in 
the  smallest  country-villages,  they  are  sure  to  attract  an  attentive, 
easily  pleased,  and  exceedingly  grateful  crowd.  The  more  sensational 
the  tale,  the  better,  and  the  oftener  is  tlie  narrator  applauded  with 
protracted  cries  of  'Aah',  or  'Allah',  or  'Allahu  akbar!'.  — Most 
of  the  story-tellers  belong  to  the  so-called  Shu'ara  (sing.  Sha'ir), 
literally  'singers'.  They  are  known  also  as  'Andtireh  (sing.  'Antari) 
or  Abu  Zeidtyeh,  according  as  their  theme  consists  of  tales  and 
romances  from  the  history  of  'Antar,  a  Beduin  hero,  or  from  that  of 
Abu  Zeid.  Others  again  are  called  Mihadditdti,  i.e.  narrators  of 
history,  their  province  being  the  recital  in  prose  of  passages  from 
the  history  of  Sultan  Beybars  (p.  cxvii)  and  other  historical  heroes. 
The  entertainments  of  the  'ai/'  leileh  u  leileh!  (thousand  and  one 
nights)  are,  however,  no  longer  heard,  as  popular  superstition  has 
branded  this  collection  of  tales  as  'unlucky'.  The  themes  of  the 
whole  fraternity  are  too  often  of  an  immoral  character. 

Mnsicians  by  profession,  called  Aldttyeh  (sing.  Aldti),  are  in- 
dispensable on  every  festive  occasion.  The  usual  instruments  are 
the  rlkk  or  tambourine  with  little  bells,  the  nakkdreh  or  semi- 
spherical  tambourine,  the  zemr  or  hautbois,  the  tabl  beledi  or 
drum,  the  tabl  shdmi  or  kettle-drum ,  and  the  darabukeh ,  a  kind 
of  funnel-shaped  drum  (generally  made  of  earthenware,  but  some- 
times of  wood  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl  and  tortoise-shell,  with 
a  flsh-skin  stretched  over  the  broad  end),  which  last  is  accompanied 
by  the  zummdra,  a  kind  of  double  flute.  A  better  class  of  instru- 
ments, used  for  chamber  music,  includes  the  ndi,  a  kind  of  flute,  the 
kemengeh  or  two-stringed  violin,  the  body  of  which  consists  of  a  cocoa 
nut  shell,  the  rebdbeh,  or  one-stringed  violin  with  a  square  wooden 
body,  the  kdnun,  a  kind  of  zither  with  strings  of  sheep-gut,  and 
astly  the  'ud,  the  lute  or  mandoline,  the  oldest  of  all  the  instruments. 


9.  Baths.         I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.  xxvii 

The  Egyptians  consider  themselves  a  highly  masic&l  jieopie.  The 
Kgyptian  sings  when  indulging  in  his  keif  (i.e.  dolce  far  niente),  whether 
sitting  on  his  heels  or  stretched  out  on  his  mat,  when  driving  his  donkey, 
when  carrying  stones  and  mortar  up  a  scafiblding,  when  working  in  the 
iiclds,  when  at  the  sakiyeh,  and  when  rowing.  He  sings  whether  alone 
iir  in  Company,  regarding  his  vocal  music  as  a  means  of  lightening  his 
labour  and  of  sweetening  his  repose.  A  peculiarity  of  the  Egyptian  songs, 
however,  is  that  they  have  no  tune,  though  they  have  a  certain  rhythm, 
which  is  always  dependent  on  the  text.  They  are  sang  through  the  nose 
on  seven  or  eight  different  notes,  on  which  the  performer  wanders  up  and 
down.  The  character  of  this  so-called  music  is  exceedingly  monotonous 
and,  to  a  European  ear,  displeasing.  The  songs  (maicicdl  or  shughl)  are 
generally  of  a  lyrical,  religious,  or  erotic  description,  though  some  of 
them  extol  the  pleasures  of  friendship  and  rational  enjoyment,  or  express 
derision  of  an  enemy,  or  contempt  fnr  the  rustic  fellah.  —  Comp.  'The 
Songs  of  an  Egyptian  Peasant',  by  E.  Sehdfer  (English  edition,  Leipzig,  1904). 

Female  SiNGBES  {'Awalim,  sing.  'Almeh;  i.e.  'learned  women') 
of  a  good  class  are  now  very  rare  and  perform  only  in  the  liarems 
of  wealthy  natives.  —  Good  Female  Dancers,  or  Ghawdzi  (sing. 
Ghdityeli),  were  formerly  one  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  Egypt,  but 
are  now  rare ;  the  performances  in  the  cafes  chantants  in  Cairo  are 
very  inferior.  —  The  Snake  Chabmees  {Rifa'iyeh,  sing.  Rifa'i ; 
p.  xci)  exhibit  performances  of  a  very  marvellous  character,  as 
credible  European  residents  in  Cairo  have  testified;  but  the  trav- 
eller will  rarely  come  in  contact  with  them  except  by  lucky  ac- 
cident. The  men  and  boys  who  exhibit  small  snakes  in  the  streets 
or  at  the  hotels  must  of  course  not  be  confounded  with  the  Ixii'a'iyeh. 
—  The  JuGGLEEs  oxF!uwd  (sing.  Hawi)  of  Egypt  are  similar  to  those 
of  other  countries.  —  Tlie  performances  of  the  Buffoons  (Kurudati 
or  Mohabhazi)  are  disgracefully  indelicate. 

Shadow  Plays  (Khdiyal  ed-Dill)^  formerly  among  the  most  pop- 
ular spectacles  in  Egypt,  the  history  of  which  can  be  traced  back 
to  the  13th  cent.,  are  still  to  be  met  with,  though  seldom,  in  the 
larger  towns,  especially  Cairo  (comp.  p.  42)  and  Alexandria. 

The  Khaiyal  man,  with  his  little  stage  of  wood  and  canvas,  may  be 
seen  at  the  'mulids'  (comp.  pp.  xcv,  xcvi),  important  weddings,  and  in  a 
tew  cafes.  The  plays,  of  which  the  most  frequently  performed  ave  tlie 
Comedy  of  the  Convent  (Ifb  ed-deir)  and  the  Comedy  of  the  Ship  (Ifb  el- 
markib),  are  rather  coarse,  or  even  slightly  indecent,  farces  in  arliflcial 
and  long-winded  verse.  The  figures  are  cut  out  of  coloured  translucent 
leather  and,  by  means  of  small  wooden  sticks,  are  pressed  against  an  illu- 
minated cloth  in  front  of  the  stage,  so  that  their  shadows  are  visible  on 
the  other  side  of  the  cloth.  The  entertainer,  generally  supported  by 
several  assistants  and  musicians,  recites  the  text  of  the  play  while  moving 
the  figures  about  by  means  of  the  sticks. 

Arab  Baths.  Tlie  baths  of  Egypt,  with  their  hot-air  chambers, 
are  those  commonly  known  as  Turkish,  but  they  are  neither  so  clean 
nor  so  well  fitted  up  as  some  of  those  in  the  larger  cities  of  Europe. 
They  are  therefore  seldom  visited  by  Europeans.  Those  who  wish 
to  try  them  once  should  do  so  early  in  the  morning,  and  should 
avoid  Fridays,  as  numerous  Moslems  bathe  on  that  day,  which  is 
their  Sabbath.  When  a  cloth  is  hung  up  at  the  entrance  to  the 
baths,  it  indicates  that  women  only  are  admitted. 


xxvui  I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 

(iO).  The  Egyptian  Dialect  of  Arabic. 

£1/  Dr.  Curt  Friifer. 
The  Translitekation  of  Arabic  vocal  sounds ,  so  intensely  difl'erent. 
from  our  own,  in  the  ordinary  Latin  alphabet  is  rendered  additionally 
difficult  by  the  varied  international  relations  of  Egypt.  In  maps  and  plans, 
in  railway  time-tables,  and  in  other  publications  we  find  the  transliteration 
ditfering  widely  according  as  the  French  or  the  English  view  has  been 
adopted.  In  this  Handbook  we  have  transliterated  the  consonantal  sounds 
so  far  as  possible  according  to  English  usage  (e.g.,  sh  instead  of  the  French 
ch).  The  pronunciation  of  the  vowels  and  diphthongs  is  as  follows:  d  as  a 
in  father,  a  usually  as  a  in  final;  e  as  e  in  belong  or  as  a  in  final;  eh  at 
the  end  of  a  word  as  a  in  final;  i  as  ee  in  been,  i  as  i  in  did,  final  i  as  ee 
iu  been;  i!!  as  o  in  bone,  o  as  0  in  on;  «2  as  00  in  fool,  «  as  «  in  full;  ai 
as  i  in  ice;  cm  as  ow  in  owl;  ei  as  a  in  lane;  oi  as  oy  in  boy.  Thus: 
emir,  which  is  pronounced  'emeer' ;  fultJs-,  pronounced  'fulloos' ;  sheikh, 
pronounced  'shake'  (with  a  guttural  k),  etc.  —  The  I  of  the  article  is 
frequently  unassimilated;  e.g.  el-rds  instead  of  er-rds  (comp.  p.  xxx). 

Arabic  belongs  to  the  Semitic  group  of  languages  and  has  no 
relationship  with  the  tongues  of  Europe.  The  classic  language  of 
the  Koran  is  still  regarded  as  the  unrivalled  model  of  literary  Arabic, 
but  side  by  side  with  it  there  have  developed  various  colloquial 
dialects,  differing  widely  among  themselves,  of  which  that  spoken 
in  Egypt  is  one.  In  the  following  brief  sketch  references  to  the 
classic  literary  language  are  avoided  as  far  as  possible;  for  that,  re- 
course must  be  had  to  the  accepted  grammars  (see  p.  clxxxviii). 
Even  in  Egypt  there  are  variations  in  the  dialects  spoken,  but 
the  following  remarks  apply  especially  to  the  language  as  spoken 
in  Cairo,  which  is  generally  undeistood  throughout  the  country. 

On  p.  xxix  we  give  the  Arabic  Alphabet,  with  the  sounds 
corresponding  to  the  different  letters  so  far  as  it  is  possible  to  re- 
present or  describe  them  to  the  English  reader.  —  Arab  writing 
runs  from  right  to  left.  Long  vowels  are  indicated  by  the  letters 
Elif,  Wan,  and  Yei  (comp.  p.  xxix),  while  short  vowels  are  often 
left  out  altogether  or  represented  by  special  signs  placed  above  or 
below  the  consonants. 

(^)uANTiTY  AND  ACCENTUATION  OP  VoAVELS.  Vowels  with  a  cir- 
cumflex  accent  ('^}  are  long;  other  vowels  are  short.  The  accent 
falls  on  the  last  syllable  when  that  contains  a  long  vowel  or  a  short 
vowel  followed  by  two  consonants.  It  falls  on  the  penultimate  (1) 
when  that  is  long,  (2)  when  it  ends  in  a  single  consonant,  and  (3) 
when  the  preceding  syllable  is  long  or  ends  in  a  single  consonant. 
In  all  other  cases  the  accent  falls  on  the  antepenultimate.  Diph- 
thongs (ai,  ei,  au)  must  be  reckoned  as  equivalent  to  long  vowels. 

The  pronunciation  of  short  vowels  varies  considerably  according  to  the 
consonants  adjoining  as  well  as  according  to  the  culture  of  the  speakers; 
eg.  for  iiiUa  (when),  emteh  also  occurs,  for  yiktub  (he  writes),  yiktib,  for 
'ariisa  (bride),  'ar&seh. 

Grammatical  Hints. 
Pkonouns.      ana,  I  int7,  thou  (fem.) 

inta,  thou  (masc.)  hUxva,  he 


Language.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


ElifjAlef 


% 

Ba 

3. 

Ta 

4. 

Tha 

5. 

Gim 

G. 

m 

7. 

Kha 

8. 

Dal 

9. 

Dhal 

10. 

Rei 

11. 

Zei 

12. 

Siu 

13. 

Shin 

14. 

Sad 

15. 

Dad 

IG. 

Ta 

17. 

Za 

18. 

'Ain 

19. 

Gbaiu 

20. 

Fei 

21. 

1  Kaf 

22. 

Kaf 

23. 

Lara 

24. 

Mim 

21"). 

Nun 

26. 

Hei 

27. 

Wan 

28. 

Yei 

Arabic  ALniABEX 


Z 

e 
t 

us 

^^ 

r 
o 

8 


b 

t 

t,  3 
% 

h 

kh 

d 

d,z 

r 

z 

s 

sh 

s 

d 

t 

z 

c 

f 
k 
k 
1 

m 
n 
h 
w 

y 


like  the  Greek  soft  breathing,  accompanies 
an  initial  vowel,  and  is  not  pronounced 
except  as  a  hiatus  in  the  middle  of  a 
word.    It  is  also  the  sign  for  d. 


(word.    It  18 
as  in  English. 


originally  as  Ih  in  'thing',  but  now  pro- 
noanced  (  or  *. 

in  Syria  and  Arabia  like  the  French  j  (some- 
times also  like  the  English  j\  bnt  pro- 
nounced g  (hard)  in  Egypt. 

a  peculiar  guttural  ft,  pronounced  with  em- 
phasis at  the  back  of  the  palate. 

like  ch  in  the  Scotch  word  'loch',  or  the 
harsh  Swiss-German  cU. 

as  in  English. 

originally  as  Ih  in  'the',  but  now  pronounced 

d  or  z. 
like  the  French  or  Itnlian  v. 


as  in  English. 

emphasized  »,  like  si  in  'hi.^s'. 

!both  emphasized   by  pressing   the    tongue 
firmly  against  the  palate. 

an  emphatic  2,  now  pronounced  like  No.  U 

or  No.  15. 
a  harsh  and  very  peculiar  guttural, 
a   guttural  resembling  the  Northumbrian  or 

Parisian  r. 

as  in  English. 

pronounced  by  Syrians  and  by  the  natives 
of  Lower  Egypt  (particularly  by  the 
Cairenes)  in  the  same  way  as  Elif  (see 
above),  but  in  Upper  Egypt  as  g  (No.  ;')). 

I  as  in  English. 


as  in  English.    Also  the  sign  for  iJ,  6^  aud  cm. 
as  in  Knglish.    Also  the  sign  for  f,  a»,  and  ti. 


XXX  I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     W.  Arahic 

hlya,  she  inium,  ye  or  you 

ihna,  we  hum,  they 

The  possessive  pronouns  are  indicated  hy  suffixes,  added  to 
nouns,  verbs,  or  prepositions. 

my,  mine  =  -?  (after  a  final  vowel  -ya,  after  verbs  -n?) 

thine  (masc.)  =  -dk  (after  a  final  vowel  -fc) ;  thine  (fern.)  =  -ik 
(after  a  final  vowel  -ki) 

his  =  -uh  (after  a  final  vowel  -li);  her  =  -lid 

OUT  ::=  -nd 

your  =  -kum 

their  =  -hum 

In  the  case  of  most  feminine  nouns  ending  in  a  or  e  (eh)  a  t  is 
inserted  before  the  suffix.  When  otherwise  three  consonants  would 
come  together  a  short  vowel  is  inserted  between  the  stem  and  the 
suffix.  Examples:  kalbl,  my  dog;  kurs'ya,  my  chair;  kalbina,  our 
dog;  shagaratkum,  your  tree;  darabnt,  he  struck  me;  misiktuhum, 
thou  tookest  them;  'andi^  beside  me,  i.e.  1  have ;  'andak,  beside  thee, 
i.e.  thou  hast;  'aleikum,  over  you. 

rnTn,  who?  lei,  why? 

ei,  what?  iza'iy,  how? 

enhu,  which?  (masc.)  Hit,  which  (relative) 

enW,  which?  (fem.)  ii  or  c7a,  this  (masc.)   \ 

enhum,  which?  (pi.)  dJ,  di,  this  (fern.)  placed  after 

kdin,  how  much?  dol,  these  the  noun  and 

fein,  where?  whither?         duk-ha,  that  its  article 

min  ein,  whence  ?  duk-hamma,  those 

imta,  when?  kuU,  each,  all 

Article.  El  is  the  definite  article  for  all  genders  and  all  num- 
bers. Before  words  beginning  with  t,  d,  r,  s,  s,  sh,  «,  d,  /,  or  n  the 
I  of  the  article  is  usually  assimilated  with  such  initial  consonant; 
e.g.  er-ruyil,  the  man.  There  is  no  indefinite  article  {el-mu'allim., 
the  teacher,  nm'allim,  a  teacher),  but  it  is  sometimes  expressed  by 
uneducated  people  through  the  numeral  wdhid,  fem.  wahdeh,  i.e. 
wnhid  beit,  n  house. 

Nouns.  Most  feminine  nouns  end  in  a  or  e  (eh);  el-mu'aUima, 
the  female  teacher.  The  regular  plural  is  formed  by  adding  7n  to 
the  masculine  stem,  at  to  the  feminine  stem;  el-mu' allimtn,  the 
teachers,  el-mu' allimdt,  the  female  teachers.  But  there  are  num- 
erous irregular  plurals  that  must  be  learned  from  the  dictionary; 
e.g.  heit^  house,  hiydt,  houses.  The  dual  ends  in  ein  for  the  masculine, 
tein  for  the  feminine;  kalbein,  two  dogs,  kalbeteln,  two  she-dogs. 

There  is  no  regular  declension  of  nouns.  The  genitive  case  is 
expressed  by  the  juxtaposition  of  the  two  nouns,  the  former  always 
without  the  article,  or  by  the  use  of  the  auxiliary  word  bitd',  bitu'et, 
plur.  hitu' ;  e.g.  leit  el-khawdga,  or  el-beit  bita'  el-khaivdga,  the 
house  of  the  European.  The  dative  case  is  formed  by  the  use  of  the 
preposition  U  (to);  li  'l-khawdga,  to  the  European.    The  accusative 


Language.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


(objective)  is  the  same  as  the  nominative.  The  vocative  case  is  yu 
khairdga,  Sir  I 

Adjectives.  Adjectives  arc  always  placed  after  their  nouns, 
with  -which  they  generally  agree  in  gender;  e.g.  gmeina  krvaiyiseh, 
a  heautiful  garden ,  el-geneina  el-knaiyiseh,  the  heautiful  garden. 
The  verb  'to  be'  is  omitted  in  the  present  tense;  el-geneina  kirai- 
yi.<eh,  the  garden  is  beautiful. 

Regular  Verbs.  The  pure  stem  of  regular  verbs  is  seen  in  the 
3rd  person  singular  (masculine)  of  the  perfect  tense;  kasar,  he  has 
broken.  This  part  is  given  in  dictionaries  instead  of  the  infinitive 
as  in  most  other  languages. 


Perfect 
I  broke  or  have  broken,  kasarl 
Thou  brokest  or  hast  -,   kasart 

(masc),  kasarti  (fem.) 
He  broke  or  has  broken,  ka.iar 


have 


She 
We 

Yoi  -      -     - 
They  -      -     - 
Imperatives  : 

Participles. 


kasaret 
kasarnd 
kasartum 
kasaru 


Present  anu  Future 
I  break  or  shall  break,  aksar 
Thou  breakest  or  wilt  - ,   tiknar 

(masc),  tiksar7  (fern.) 
He  breaks  or  will  break,  yiksar 
She      -       -      -         .    ^  liksar 
We  break  or  shall      -    ,  niksar 
You     -      -  will        -    ,  tiksarH 
They   -      -      -  -   ,  yihsard 

Break  (sing.),  iksar  (masc.),  iksari  (fem.). 
Break  (plur.),  iksaru. 

Pres.  Breaking,  kanr;  Perf.  Broken,  maksiir. 
So  also:  I  have  written,  katabt  I  write,  aktub 

kataht,  kalaht'i  tiktub,  lUclubt 

katab,  etc.  yiktub,  etc. 

In  the  case  of  most  verbs  other  tenses  and  moods  are  indicated 
by  prefixing  or  interpolating  letters;  e.g.  kasar,  he  has  broken,  m- 
kasar,  he  has  been  broken. 

For  irregular  verbs  the  grammar  (comp.  p.  clxxxviii)  must  be 
consulted. 

To  express  a  negative  with  verbs  the  separable  form  ynn  .  .  .  sh(i) 
is  used,  the  verb  being  inserted  in  the  middle  (comp.  Fr.  ne  .  .  .  pas); 
e.g.  mudarabah,  he  did  not  strike. 

Numerals. 
1(5)  — wCihid^iQxa.wahdeh     the  first        — el-auwal,    fem.    el- 

autonleh  or  el-tlla 


2(r)- 

itnein 

the  second 

—  tdni,      fem. 

tuniyeh 

3(n- 

taldteh 

the  third 

—  tdlit. 

talteh 

4(f)- 

■  arba'a 

the  fourth 

—  rdbe'. 

rab'a 

5(o)- 

khamseh 

the  fifth 

—  khdmis,     - 

khamseh 

6(1)- 

■  sitteh 

the  sixth 

—  sddis, 

sadseh 

7(v)- 

■  sab'a 

the  seventli 

—  sdbe\ 

.sab'a 

8(A)_ 

tamdnyeh 

the  eighth 

—  tdmin, 

tamneh 

9(1)- 

■  tis'a 

the  ninth 

—  tdse% 

tas'a 

10(1.)- 

-  'ashara 

the  tenth 

—  'dshir, 

'anhreh 

XXXU 


T.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 


11  —  haddshar 

12  —  itndshar 

13  —  telatdshar 

14  —  arbahtdshar 


40  —  arba'tn 
50  —  khamsin 
60  —  sittin 
70  —  sab'in 


15  —  khamastdshar  80  —  tarmdnln 
10  —  sittdshar  90  —  fts'Jn 


600- 
700. 
800- 
900. 
1000 
2000 


suttemtyeh 

sub'amlyeh 

tumnemtyeh 

tus^  army  ell 

alf 

alfein, 


17  —  sabahtdshar    100  . —  miyeh;  before  nonns,   3000  —  telat  aldf 


18  —  tamantdshar  200  —  niitein 

19  —  tis'atdshar      300  —  tultemtyeh 

20  —  'ishrin  400  —  rub'amlyeh 
30  —  taldttn  500  —  khumsemtyeh 
once               —  marra  wahda ,   marra, 
twice             —  marratein  \  or  r?66a 
thrice            —  teiai  marrdt 
four  times    — ■  ar&a'  marrdi 
five  times     —  khamas  marrdt  a  fifth 
six  times      —  sittefe  marrdt  a  sixth 
seven  times  —  sabn,'  marrdt  a  seventh 
eight  times  —  taman  marrdt  an  eighth 
nine  times  —  tisa'  marrdt  a  ninth 
ten  times     —  'ashar  marrdt  a  tenth 

Substantives  following  the  numerals  2-10  are  us^d  in  the  plural,  those 
following  numerals  above  10  in  the  singular;  thus:  leldia  kildb ,  3  dogs, 
but  teldtin  kalb,  30  dogs.  Educated  people  generally  employ  the  dual 
form  of  the  noun  instead  of  the  numeral  2:  kalbein,  2  dogs. 


[?m«.    4000  —  arbaht  dldf 
5000  —  khamast  dldf 
100,000  —  mtt  alf 
1,000,000  —  malyun 
a  half  —  nuss 

a  third  —  tult 

a  fourth  —  rub' 

three-fonrths  —  talat  irba' 

—  khums 

—  sudu 

Stlb' 

—T  tumn 

—  tus' 

—  'oshr 


Arabic  Vocabulary. 


Above,  fok. 

Add,  to,  sad.   Add  a  little  more 

(i.e.  hid  a  little  higher),    %id 

shivaiyeh. 
Address,  'unwdn. 
After,  ba'd;  afterwards,  ba'dein. 
Afternoon,  'asr. 
Against,  did. 
Air,  hawd. 
All,  el-kull,  all  people,  kullen-nds 

(lit.  the  total  of  the  people). 
Almond,  loz. 

Always,  ddiman  or  tamallt. 
America,    Amerlka.      American, 

marakdni,  malakdru,  pi.  mara- 

kdn. 
Anchorage,  roads,  mirm. 
Angry,  za'ldn.    Do  not  be  angry, 

md  tiz'alah. 
Apricots,  mishmish. 


Arabia,  Bildd  el- Arab.  Arabian, 
rdgil  'arabl,   pi.  uldd  el-arab. 

Arabic,  'arabl.  What  is  that  called 
in  Arabic?  ismeh  ei  bil-arahl? 

Arable  land,  tin. 

Arm,  dird'. 

Arrive,  wasal.  When  does  tlie 
steamer  arrive,  el-wdbdr  yusal 
imta?    Arrival,  imisitl. 

Ask,  to,  sa'al. 

At,  'and. 

Aunt,  'amma  (paternal  aunt), 
khdla  (maternal  aunt). 

Austria,  Bildd  en  -  Nimsn.  Aus- 
trian, nimsdiv?. 

Autumn,  kharif. 

Awaken,  to,  sahhd.  Awake  me, 
sahfunl. 

Back,  dahr. 

Bad,  battdl. 


Vocabulary.     1.  PKKLIMINARY  INFOKMATION. 


Baker,  far  run. 

Bananas,  rnoa. 

Barber,  hallak,  mizeiyin. 

Barley,  »ha"ir. 

Basket,  kuffn,  pi.  kufuf. 

Bath,  bath-establishnieiit,  ham- 

mcitn. 
Bazaar,  see  Market. 
Be,   to.    The  copula  'is'  (are)  is 

not  translated;  comp.  p.  xxxi. 
Beans,  fasCdya.  Broad  beans,  ful. 

Haricot  beans,  Idhiyeh. 
r.card,  dakn.    Full  beard,  lihyeh. 

Moustache,  shanab. 
Beat,  to,  darab.  Beat  him,  idrabuh ! 
Beautiful,  kwaiyis  or  gamll. 
Bed,  ser'tr. 
Beduiu,   hedawi,   pi.  bidu,  'arab, 

'orbdn.    Beduiu  sheikh,  sheikh 

el-'arab. 
Bee,  nahla,  pi.  nahl. 
Beer,  btra. 
Before,     kabl    (time),     kudddm 

(place). 
Behind,  ward. 
Below,  taht. 
Bench  (of  stone  or  mud),  maslaba, 

pi.  masdtib  (also  used  for  cer- 
tain kinds  of  tombs,  p.  clxviii). 
Beside,  'and,  gamb. 
Better,  ahsan,  khcir. 
Between,  bein. 
Bill,  account,  hitidb. 
Bird,  teir,  pi.  tiyiir.  Singing-bird, 

'asfur,  pi.  'asdfir. 
Bite,  to,  'add.  It  (she)  has  bitten 

me,  'addetru;  it  (she)  will  bite, 
Bitter,  murr.  [te'udd. 

Black,  isivid. 
Blacksmith,  hadddd. 
Blind,  a'ma. 
Blood,  damm. 
Blue,  azrak. 
Board,  loh,  pi.  llwdh. 
Boat,  feluku. 
Boil,  to.   The  water  is  boiling,  el- 

maiyeh  tighll.    Boiled,  maduk. 
BvuDiiKEK's  Kgypf.    7th  Kdit. 


Book,  kitdb,  yl.kulub.  I'mokseller, 
kutbl. 

ISoot,  gasma,  pi.  gkain. 

Bottle,  khdza,  pi.  kazdiz.  Water- 
bottle,  kulla,  pi.  kulal. 

Box,  sanduk^  pi.  sanddlk. 

Boy,  walad,  pi.  uldd. 

Brandy,  'arakt 

Bread,  'eish.    See  also  Loaf. 

Break,  to,  kasar  (tians.J;  inkasar 
(intrans.).    Broken,  maksur. 

Breakfast,  futur. 

Bride,  'arCtsa.    Bridegroom,  'arh. 

Bridge,  kuhr1,  kantara. 

Bridle,  ligdm. 

Bring,  to,  gdb.  Bring  the  eggs,  gib 

Broad,  'arid.  [el-leid! 

Brother,  akh  (before  suffixes  and 
genitives  akhH,  as  akhUnd,  our 
brother),  pi.  ikhwdn. 

Brown,  asmar  or  ahmar. 

Bucket,  gardal  or  satl^  pi.  garddil, 
sutul. 

Burn,  to.  The  fire  burns,  en-ndr 
beyula'.  The  sun  burns  me, 
esh-shems  (or  es-sems)  ylhrakni. 

Bury,  to,  dafan.  They  have  buried 
him, dafanuh. —  Burial,  dafna. 

Butcher,  gazzdr. 

Butter,  zlbdeh. 

Button,  zirr,  pi.  zirdr. 

Buy,  to.  What  dost  thou  wish  to 
buy,  'duz  tishtiri  ei?  Hast  thou 
bought  the  eggs,  inta  ishtareit 
el-bdd?  —  See  also  p.  49. 

Cab,  'arabiyeh.  Cabman,  'arbugl. 
He  is  hailed  with  the  ex- 
pression usta. 

Cafe',  see  Coffee. 

Cairo,  Masr. 

Calf,  'igl,  pi.  'igul. 

Call,  to,  nadah.  Call  the  cook, 
indah  ll't-tabbdkh. 

Call,  to  =  to  name,  see  Name. 

Camel,  gamal  (masc),  pi.  gimdl. 
Hiding  camel,  hegm.  Camel- 
driver,  yammdl. 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 


Candle,  sham'a,  pi.  shama'.  Can- 
dlestick, sham'addn. 

Cape  (promontory),  rds. 

Care.  Take  care,  khallt  hdldk  (of 
the  luggage,  min  el-afsh),  u'Ci. 

Carpet,  siggada;  busat. 

Carriage,  'arabiyeh  (also  a  railway 
carriage). 

Castle,  kasr,  pi.  kusur;  serdyeh, 
pi.  serdydt. 

Cattle,  bakar. 

Cause,  sabab. 

Cave,  maghdra. 

Cemetery,  kardfa;  yabdna;  mad- 
fan;  malcbara. 

Chair,  kursi,  pi.  kerdsi. 

Change,  to,  mraf.  Change  me  a 
soyeiBign,  usruf  It  gineih.  Hast 
thou  changed  the  sovereign, 
inta  saraft  el-gineih? 

Cheap,  rakkis,  pi.  rukhds. 

Cheese,  gibna. 

Cholera,  hawa  el-asfar  or  kuleira. 

Christian,  nusrdm,  pi.  nasdra. 

Cigar,  sigdra  afrangi;  zinobya. 

Cigarette,  sigdra,  pi.  sagdyir; 
cigarette  paper,  warak  sigdra. 

Class.  1st  class  (railway  or 
steamer)  berimo;  2nd  class, 
sekondo. 

Clean,  nadif. 

Clean,  to,  nadda/".  Clean  the  room, 
naddaf  el-dda.  I  have  not 
cleaned  the  room  yet,  lissa  md 
naddaftish  el-oda. 

Clear,  hright,  safl. 

Clever  (skilful),  shdtir. 

Clothes,  libs;  hudum.  —  The  Arab 
costume  includes: Fez, /ar&i2sA; 
skull-cap,  tdkiyeh;  felt  cap, 
libdeh;  head-shawl,  kufftyeh; 
cord  for  fastening  the  kuffiyeh, 
'ukal;  turban,  'imma;  trousers 
(wide),  shirwdl;  women's  trou- 
sers, shintiydn;  cloak,  'abdyeh; 
dressing-gown,  kuftdn;  long 
Mouse,     galldMyeh;       girdle. 


hizdm ;  leathern  belt,  kamar; 
shoe,  markub;  wooden  shoe, 
kubkdb;  stocking,  shurdb.  — 
See  also  Coat,  Trousers. 

Clumsy,  ghasMm. 

Coat  (European  man's),  sitra,  pi. 
sitar;  badleh. 

Coffee,  kahwa.  Boy,  bring  a  cup 
of  coffee,  hdl  fingdn  kahwa,  yd 
icalad.  —  Caf(?,  kahwa,  Cafe- 
keeper,  kahwagl.  Coffee-beans, 
bunn;  coffee-pot,  hakrag. 

Cognac,  kunydk. 

Cold,  bdrid,  fem.  barda.  Cold 
(noun),  bard.  It  is  very  cold 
early  in  the  morning,  fis-subh 
el-bardeh  shedld.  —  To  catch 
cold,  khad  bard.  —  I  feel  cold, 
ana  barddn. 

Collar,  ydka. 

Colour,  Ion,  pi.  alwdn.  Coloured 
mulauivin. 

Come,  to.  I  came  (perf.),  geit;  he 
came,  ga;  she  came,  gat;  we 
came,  geind;  they  came,  gd  or 
gum.  (In  the  pres. :  agi,  yiyu 
tig7,  nigl,  yigu.)  Imper. :  Come, 
ta'dla  (masc),  ta'dli  (fem.), 
ta'dlu  (plur.).  Come  here, 
ta'dla  hineh  (masc). 

Concerning  (prep.),  'ala  (with 
suffixes). 

Confectioner,  halawdnu 

Consul,  konsul.  Consulate,  konsu- 
Idto.  Consular  guard,  Kavass, 
Jcauwds. 

Content,  mabsut. 

Convent,  deir.  Dervish  convent, 
tekklyeh. 

Cook,  tabbdkh. 

Cook,  to.  Cook  me  a  fowl,  uibukh- 
U  farkha. 

Cost,  to.  What  does  this  cost, 
di  bikdni? 

Cotton,  kutn. 

Country  (fatherland),  watan. 

Cow,  hakara,  pi.  hakardt. 


Vocabulary.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


Crofodile.  tim.idh. 

Cnp,  fingdn.   pi.  fanaym. 

Customs,  gumruk. 

Cut,  to,  kata'. 

Dagger,  khangar,  pi.  khandger. 

Dance,  rak;}. 

Da.rk,'itini.Da.Yk-cii\o\ncd,ghdmik. 

Dates,  halah.  Date-palm,  nafc^/<», 

pi.  nakhl(dt). 
Daughter,  hint,  pi.  handt. 
Day,   yoni  or  nahdr,    pi.   aiydm. 

Daily,  kulli  yom  or  kulli  nahdr. 

By  day,  hin-nahdr.  To-day,  en- 

nahdr-di.    Yesterday,  embdreh. 

Day   before  yesterday,    auiral 

embdreh.  Day  after  to-morrow, 

ba'deh  bukra.  —  Days  of  the 

week,  see  Week. 
Dead,  maiylt. 
Deaf,  atrash. 
Dear,  ghdll.    That  is  very  (too) 

dear,  di  ghdll  ketlr. 
Deceitful,  kh'dn,  hardm7. 
Deep,  ghamlk  or  ghawU. 
Delicate,  tender,  rafT. 
Desert,  gehel;  khald.  The  Sahara, 

es-Sahra. 
Dialect,  laghweh. 
Diarrhoea,  iahdl. 
Die,  to,  mdt. 
Difficult,  m'b. 
Dinner,  see  Evening. 
Dirt,  wasdkha  or  xvas-akh.   Dirty, 

loisikh. 
Dismount,   to,    nizil.     We  shall 

dismount   here,    ninzil   hineh. 

Dismount  (pi.),  inzilit! 
District,  bildd. 
Do,  to,  'amal.    He  will  do  or  he 

does,  ya'mil.    Do  not  do  it,  ma 

ta  'miliish.' 
Doctor,  hakhn,  pi.  hukama. 
Dog,  kalb,  pi.  kildb. 
Donkey,  homdr,  pl./ia/n/r.  Don- 
key-boy ,s/iar7imur. 
Door,  Gate,  bdb,  pi.  blbdn. 
Doorkeeper,  Concierge,   hauwdb. 


Dragoman,  turgumdn  (seep. xxv). 

Drink,  to,  shirib.  Pres. :  aihrab, 
ti<hrab,  etc.  Drink  coffee,  i»'7tra/j 
kahira!  Why  dost  thou  drink 
nothing ,  'ashshdn  ei  md  bet- 
ishrabshi  hag  a? 

Driver,  see  Cabman. 

Dry,  ndshif  or  ydbis. 

Duck,  batta,  pi.  batl. 

Dyer,  sobbdgh. 

Each  (noun),  kulli  wdlud;  feui., 
kulli  rrahdeh.  Each  man,  hull 
insdn.    Each  town,    kulli  me- 

Ear,  widn.  [dhieh. 

Early,  hadr'i. 

Earth,  ard. 

East,  shark.    Eastern,  sharkl. 

Eat,  to,  akal.  I  ate  or  thou  .itest, 
kalt.  I  wish  to  eat,  biddt  dkul. 
We  wish  to  eat,  biddind  ndkul. 
Eat,  kul! 

Egg,  beida,  pi.  beid.  Boiled  eggs, 
beid  masldk.  Baked  eggs,  beid 
makli. 

Egypt,  (bildd)  masr.  Egyptian, 
masTi. 

Embankment,  gisr. 

Empty,  fdd.7. 

England,  Bildd  el-Inglh.  Eng- 
lishman, inglizt. 

Enough,  kifdyeh ;  has.i;  bizyddeh. 

Entrance,  dukhul. 

Envelope,  zarf.  pi.  zurdf. 

Europe,  Bildd  el-Afrang.  Euro- 
pean, afrangt ,  pi.  ferang, 
0  frank. 

Evening,  'ashiya;  evening-meal 
(i.e.  dinner)  'ashd. 

Eye,  'ein;  the  eyes  (dual),  el- 
'einein.  My  eyes,  'eineiya.  Eye- 
drops (medicine),  kaireh. 

Eace,  ic/s/is/i. 

Faithful,  amln. 

Fall,  to.  I  have  fallen,  10/7.47.  Do 
not  fall,  ind  tCika'sh. 

F.tr,  ha'tJ.  How  far  is  it  from  here 
to...V  fCaddi eihu'id minhineh  U? 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 


Father,   ab,   but  before   suffixes 

and   genitives   abH;    e.g.    abH 

Hasan,  father  of  Hassan. 
Fatherland,  watan. 
Fear,  to,  khaf.   Do  not  fear,  md 

tekhaf.'ih.    I  was  afraid  of  him, 

khufteh  minnuh. 
Feather,  rhha. 
Fee,  ugra;  kireh. 
Fellow,  gada%  pi.  yid'dn. 
Festival,  'id;  festival  of  a  saint, 

mUlid. 
Fever,  himma;  sikhUna. 
Field,  gheit. 
Figs,  tin. 

Filter,  2/r,  pi.  azydr. 
Find,  to,  lakd.   I  can't  find  Iiim, 

md  alkdhsh. 
Fire,  ndr.    Conflagration,  hartka. 
Fish,  samaka,  pi.  samdk. 
Flag,  bandeira. 
Flea,  barghut,  pi.  bardghU. 
Flower,  zahr,  pi.  a%hdr. 
Fly,  dubbdna,  pi.  diibbdn. 
Fog,  shdbiira. 
Food,  afci.   Bring  the  dinner,  g'tb 

el-akl.   Take  the  dinner  away, 

shU  el-akl. 
Foot,  rigl  (also  Leg).     The  feet 

(dual),    er-riglein.     His   feet. 

For  (prep.),  'alashdn. 

Forbidden ,  mamnu'.  Entrance 
forbidden  (i.e.  no  admission), 
ed-dukhCd  inamnu\  —  Forbid- 
den by  religion,  hardm;  e.g. 
Wine  is  a  thing  forbidden  by 
God,  en-neMd  hardm.  (A  thing 
permitted  by  religion  is  called 
haldl.^ 

Foreign,  gharlb. 

Forget,  to,  nh'i.  Do  not  forget, 
md  tins  ash. 

Fork,  shoka. 

Fortress,  kal'a. 

Fountain,  sebU  (a  pious  foun- 
dation). 


Fowl,  farkha,  pi.  firdkh.  In  Upper 
Egypt  farkha  means  a  young 
pigeon.  Cock,  dtk,  pi.  diyuk; 
chicken,  katkut,  pi.  katdkit. 

France,  Feransa.  Frenchman, 
feransdwl. 

Freight,  nduldn. 

Fresh,  tdza. 

Friend,  habib  or  sahib,  pi.  habdib, 
ashdb. 

Fruit,  fakha;  pi.  faicdkih. 

Garden,  geneina,  pi.  geneindt. 
Gardener,  gendim. 

Garlic,  t{lm. 

Gate,  bdb,  pi.  blbdn. 

Gazelle,  ghaidl,  pi.  ghuzldn. 

Germany,  Almdnia.  German,  al- 
mdnt.  The  German  language, 
el-lisdn  en-nimsdwi. 

Gift,  bakshhh  (also  reward). 

Girl,  bint,  pi.  bandt. 

Give,  to,  add.  She  gave,  adet.  I 
gave,  adeit.  He  gives  or  will 
give,  yidt  I  give  or  shall  give, 
adt.  I  give  thee  five,  adilak 
khamsa.  Give  me  the  money, 
hdt  el-fulUs  (hdt  =  give). 

Glass,  jfizdz.  Drinking -glass, 
kubbdyeh,  pi.  kubbdydt. 

Go,  to,  rdh.  Go,  rdh!  I  went  out, 
ruht.  Whither  is  he  gone,  hd,u-a 
rdh  fein?  Go  on,  yallah.  Does 
this  train  go  to  Cairo,  el-kalr 
di  rdih  'ala  masr  ?  See  Start  and 
Travel. 

Gold,  dahab.  Goldsmith,  gohargl. 

Good,  taiyib. 

Goods,  budd'a. 

Goose,  wizzeh,  pi.  ivizz. 

Grapes,  'inab. 

Gratuity,  baksMsh. 

Grave  (tomb),  turba,  pi.  turab. 

Grease,  semn. 

Great,  see  Large. 

Greece,  Rdm;  Bildd^  er-Rihn. 
Greek,  rdmi,  pi.  arwdm. 

Green,  akhdar. 


Vocabulary.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


Greeting,  saldm  (see  also  p.  xlv). 

Gnide,  to.  Guide  me,  waddmt  or 
khudm.  Unless  thou  guidest  me 
alone  I  shall  give  thee  nothing, 
tewaddini  (or  tdkhudni)  wahd^, 
walla  mcL  badtksheh  haga. 

Gun  (musket),  bunduklyeh. 

Gunpowder,  bdrild. 

Hair,  sha'r.  A  single  hair,  sha'ra. 

Half,  nusi. 

Halt,  ukaf  or  'andak !  He  halted, 
wikif.  We  shall  halt,  nukaf. 
See  also  Dismount. 

Hammer,  shakush. 

If  and,?d  or  yadd.The  hands  (dual), 
el-idein.  Herhands,(dej/ia.  Right 
hand,  on  the  right,  'alyetmn. 
Left  hand,  on  the  left,  'a</i- 
"himdl. 

Happen,  to,  see  News. 

Harbour,  mina. 

Hasten,  to,  istn'gil.  Hasten  (pi.), 

Hat,  burneita.  [Uta'gilu ! 

Have  (to)  is  expressed  with  the 
aid  of  the  preposition  'and  or 
li;  e.g.,  I  have  a  dog  (=  with 
me  is  a  dog)  'andt  kalb,  or  Uya 
kalb.    See  p.  xxx. 

Head,  ras^  pi.  rus. 

Healthy,  salhn;  sdgh  salhn;  lai- 
}iib;  bis-sahha;  mabsiit  (mabsCit 
means  also  contented). 

Hear,  to,  simi'.  He  will  hear, 
yisma'.     Hear  (listen),   isma'.' 

Heavy,  tekil. 

Help,  to,  sd'id;  yisd'id. 

Here,  hineh  (heneh).  Come  here, 
ta'dla  (fem.,  ta'dlt)  hineh.  Go 
away  from  here,  rdh  min  hineh. 

High,  'dli. 

Hill,  tell,  pi.  tulul. 

Hire,  ugra. 

Hold,  to,  misik.  Hold  the  stirrup, 
imsik  er-rikdb. 

Home,  belt,  xvatan.  Is  the  master 
at  home,  el-khawdga  gHwa? 

Honest,  amin. 


Honey,  'a.<ial. 

Horse,  hosdn,  pi.  kheil. 

Horseshoe,  na'l. 

Hospital,  isbitdliya. 

Hot,  sukhn  (of  food,  liquids,  etc.), 

hart  (of  weather).    It  is  hot, 

ed-dunya  liarr. 
Hotel,  lokanda.  —  Which  is  the 

way  to  the  hotel?    sikket  el- 

lokanda  min  ein? 
Hour,  sd'a,  pi.  sd'dt.    Two  hours, 

sd'atein;    three   hours,   taldteh 

sd'dt.   To  hire  (a  cab)  by  the 

hour,  bis-sd'a. 
House,  belt,  pi.  biyut. 
How?  iza'iy?   How  much,  kam? 

For  how  much,  bikdm?    How 

many  hours,  kdm  sd'a? 
Hungry,  ga'dn. 
Hut,  'ishsha,  pi.  'ishash. 
Ice,  telg  (also  snow). 
Ill,  'aiydn;  martd.  Illness,  'aiya; 

mar  ad. 
Immediately,  hdlan. 
In,  within,   gdwa. 
Interpreter,  turgumdn. 
Intoxicated,  sakrdn. 
Invoice,  fatura. 
Iron,  hadid. 

Island,  gez7reh,  pi.  yezdir. 
Italy,  Itdlya.    Italian,  talydni. 
Jew,  yahiidi,  pi.  yahild. 
Journey,  to,  safir.    See  Start. 
Judge,  kddi. 
Jug,  ibrik. 

Key,  muftdh,  pi.  mafdtik. 
Khedive,  efendind  (lit.  'our  lord'). 
Kill,  to,  mauwit.    I  have  killed 

him,   matiwittuh.      Kill   him, 

mauwituh. 
Kindle,  to,  walla' .  He  has  kindled 

the   Are  (or  kindle  the   fire), 

walla'  en-ndr. 
Knife,  sikkineh,  pi.  sttkdk'm.  Pen- 
knife, matwa. 
Knock,  to,  khabbal. 
Know,   to,   'irif.     I   know   him, 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 


la'rafuh.    I  do  not  know  thee, 

md  ba'rafaksh. 
Lady,  sitt,  pL  slttdt. 
Lake  (or  pond),  birkeh,  pL  Inrak. 
Lame,  a'rag. 

Lamp,  lamba,  pi.  lainbdt. 
Land,  barr. 
Lane,  hdra. 

Language,  lisdn;  luylia. 
Lantern,  fdnus,  pL  fawdnh. 
Large,  kehXr;  'azlm. 
Late,  wakhrl.    Thou  art  late,  il  - 

akhkharl.    Do  not  be  late,  md 

tit'akhkharsh.  Later, afterwards, 

ba'dein. 
Laugh,  to,  dildk.    Do  not  latigh, 

md  tidhaksh. 
Lay,  to,  lay  down,  to,  halt.    Lay 

the  hook  there ,  hutt  el-kitdb 

hin&k.     I  have  laid   it  down, 

halteituh.    I   have  not  laid   it 

down,  ma  hattdtush. 
Lazy,  kasldn. 
Lead,  rusds.    Lead-pencil,  kalam 

rusds. 
Leave,  to,  tarak;  yitruk.  —  Leave 

me  (in  peace),  khaUtni! 
Left,  shimdi.    Go  to  the  left,  ruli 

'ashshim,dlak. 
Leg,  see  Foot. 
Lemon,  lamUna,  pi.  lainun. 
Letter,  gawdb,  pi.  gawdbdt.    Re- 
gistered,   mesogal  or  mesokar. 

Are  there  any  letters  for  me, 

fih  gaicdbdt  'ashshdn7? 
Lie,   to,  kldib.    Thou  hast  lied, 

inta  kidlbt. 
Lie  down,  to  (to  go  to  sleep),  ralcad. 

He  is  lying  down,  yurkud.   Lie 

down,  urkud. 
Light,  nur,  pi.  anwdr.  —  A  light 

(glowing  embers)  for  a  cigarette 

is  asked  for  in  a  caf^  with  the 

word  bassa  or  wil'a. 
Light,  to,  nauwar. 
Like.    I   should  like,    etc.,   see 

Wish. 


Little  (adj.),  mghaiyar.  Little 
(adv.),  shuwaiyeh  or  shwaiyeh 
(also  too  little). 

Load,  to  (a  horse).  Load  up, 
shiddu!  Have  you  loaded  (the 
pack-animals),  shaddeitu? 

Loaf,  ragMf,  pi.  argMfeh. 

Lock  (of  a  door),  kdlun,  pi.  ka~ 
wdVin.    Padlock,  fcj/?,  pi.  akfdl. 

Loc.omotive,  wdbur  or  bdbHr. 

London,  Londra. 

Long,  tawil. 

Look  for,  to,  see  Seek. 

Loosen,  to, /taZi.  Thou  must  loosen 
the  rein,  Idzim  tehiU  es-seir. 

Lose,  to,  dalyaJ.  I  have  lost  my 
book,  daiya'teh  kUdb7.  He  will 
lose  it,  yedaiya'uh. 

Louse,  kamla,  pi.  kaml. 

Low,  wdtL 

Lower,  see  Below.  The  lower 
road,  et-tarik  et-tahtdni. 

Luggage,  'afsh.  Luggage-ticket, 
bolisa. 

Luncheon,  see  Midday. 

Mad,   magnun.    Madhouse,   mu- 

Malodorous,  nitln.  [ristdn. 

Make,  to,  'amal. 

Man,  rdgil,  pi.  rigdleh.  Human 
being,  insdn,  pi.  nas  (people)  or 
bent  ddam  (the  sons  of  Adam). 

Market  or  Bazaar,  suk,  pi.  aswdk. 

Marriage,  marriage  -  feast,  farah. 

Mat,  straw-mat,  hasira,  pi.  husr: 

Match  (light),  kebrlta,  pi.  kebrlt. 

Matter,  to.  That  matters  nothing 
to  me  (thee) ,  ana  md-lt  (inta 
mdlak).  What  does  that  matter 
to  me,  we' ana  md-li?  That 
does  not  matter  (I  hope  it  does 
not  matter),  md  'aleish. 

Meat,  lahm. 

Medicine,  daiva.  (Peruvian  bark, 
kma;  quinine,  m.alh  el-klna; 
opium,  aflUn^) 

Melons.  Musk-melons,  shammdm. 
Water-melous,  battikh. 


Vocabulary.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


Midday,    duhr.     Midday    meal 
(luncheon),  ghadCi. 

Middle,  imisl. 

Midnight,  7iuss  el-leil. 

Milk,  lahan.  Sweet  milk,  liallb  or 
laban  hal'ib.  Sour  milk,  laban 
hdmid. 

Minaret,  mddna,  pi.  mdddin. 

Minute,  dahlka,  pi.  dakayik. 

Mist,  see  Fog. 

Mistake,  ghaiat.  [Linun. 

Mohammedan,  wuslhn,  pi.  mus- 

Moisture,  rutuba. 

Money,  fulus.  1  have  no  money, 
rnCi  'andish  fulds.  Money-chang- 
er, mrrdf. 

-Month,  see  below. 

Moon,  kamar.  New  moon,  Mini. 
Full  moon,  bedr. 


More,  aklar.   More  than  100  pias 

tres,  aktar  min  mit  kirsh.    One 

more,  kamdn  wdhid^gheir.  Still 
.  more,  kamdn. 
Morning.   Early  morning,  subh  or 

sabdh.    Forenoon,  dahd. 
Mosque,  garni',  pi.  gaxvdmi. 
Mosquito,  namma,  pi.  n&mus. 
Mother,  umm. 
Mount  (a  horse),  to,  rikib,  pres. 

yirkab.      We    have    mounted, 

rikibnd. 
Mountain,  gebel,  pi.  yibdl  (also  a 

mountain-chain). 
Moustache,  shanab. 
Mouth,  furnm. 
Much,  too  much,  very,  ketir. 
Name,  ism,  pi.  asdmi.    Wliat  is 

thy  name,  ismak  ei?  My  name 


Month,  shahr;  2  months,  shahrein;  3  months,  talat  uMiur.  — 
Instead  of  the  Arabic  names  of  the  mouths  used  in  Syria,  the 
Egyptians  employ  the  Coptic  (ancient  Egyptian)  names  of  the  solar 
months,  which,  however,  are  always  about  nine  days  behind  the 
European  months.  Each  Coptic  month  has  thirty  days,  and  in 
order  to  complete  the  year  live  or  six  intercalary  days  are  added  at 
the  end  (in  the  beginning  of  September).  The  European  names, 
liowever,  are  gradually  coming  into  general  use. 


English 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

European 

yendyir 

fehvdyif 

m&res 

abril 

mdpo 

pilnia 

Coptic         tiba        amshir    j  bavamhdt 

barm^deh 

bashens          baHiia 

Ensjlish 

July 

August 

September    October 

November 

December 

European!    yUlia 

1 

aghostoi 

sehtember 

oktSber 

ndf ember 

disember 

Coptic 

ebtb          misra 

m 

bdba 

TiatUr 

kiydk 

The  intercalary  days  (see  above)  are  called  aii/dy/i  en-)iest. 

The  Moslem  months  form  a  lunar  year  only  (comp.  p.  xcv).  Their 
names  are:  Moharrem,  Safar,  Rain'  Auicil,  Rain'  et-Tdni,  Gemdd 
Auioil,  Gemdd  Tdru,  Regeb,  Sha'bdn,  Ramadan  (month  of  the  fast), 
Shauwdl,  Dhul- Ki'deh,  Dhul-Higgeh  (month  of  the  pilgrimage). 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.      10.  Arabic 


is  Hassan,  isml  Hasan.  What 
is  the  name  of  that  in  Arabic, 
ismeh  di  ei  bit-'arabt? 

Napkin,  fiUa. 

Native,  ibn  el-beled. 

Narrow,  daiyik. 

Near,  kuraiyib. 

Necessary,  lazim.  It  is  necessary 
that  I  seize  him,  Idzim  amsikvh. 
Unnecessary,  mush  Idzim. 

Neighbour,  gar,  pi.  girdn. 

Neighbourhood,  bilad. 

Never,  abadan,  with  the  negative 
of  verbs,  e.g.  I  never  smoke, 
ana  md  ashrabsh  ed-dukhkhdn 
dbadan  (lit.  I  never  drink 
tobacco). 

New,  gedid. 

News,  khabar.  What  has  happen- 
ed, khabar  ei  ? 

Night,  leil.  By  night,  bil-leil;  mid- 
night, nuss  el-leil. 

Nile,  bahr en- NII0T sim]>]y ei-bahr. 

Nilometer,  mikyds. 

No,  Id.  No,  I  will  not.  Id,  mush'diiz 
Qduza,  if  a  woman  speaks). 

Noon,  duhr. 

North,  northern,  baharl. 

Nose,  mandkhir. 

Not,  mush  or  md-sh  (see  p.  xxxi). 

Nothing.  There  is  nothing,  md 
fish.  What  dost  thou  wish? 
Nothing  (answer),  biddak  ei? 
Walla  hdga  or  shei. 

Now,  dilwakt. 

Nubia,  Bildd  el-Bardbra. 

Number,  nimra. 

Oasis,  lodh. 

Obelisk,  misalla. 

O'clock.  What  o'clock  is  it,  es-sd'a 
kdm?  It  is  3  o'clock,  es-sd'a 
taldteh.  It  is  I/2  P^st  4,  es-sd'a 
arba'u  nuss.  It  is  1/4  to  5, 
es-sd'a  khamseh  ilia  rub'. 
About  8  o'clock,  nahw  es-sd'a 
tam,dnyeh. 

Often,  keftr,  marrdt  kettr. 


Oil,  zeit. 

Old.  An  old  castle,  kasr  kadim 

(or  kasr  'atik).     An  old  man, 

rdgil  kebir  or  'agHz. 
Olives,  zeitHn. 
On,  see  Concerning. 
On  (interjec),  yallah .' 
Onion,  basala,  pi.  basal. 
Only,  bass. 
Open,   to,  fatal}.    Open  thy  box, 

iftah  sanddkak! 
Oranges,  burtukdn. 
Ostrich,  na'dmeh,  pi.  na'dm. 
Otherwise,  walla. 
Out,  outside,  barra.  Out  (prep.), 

m,in. 
Out,  to  go.  He  went  out,  tili'.  He 

will    go    out,    yitla'   (with   or 

without  barra). 
Ox,  tor,  pi.  tirdn. 
Pack,  to,  hazam. 
Pain,  waga'. 
Paper,  warak. 
Para,  [adda;  pi.  the  same. 
Parasol,  shemsiyeh. 
Parents,   wdlidein  or  ab  u  wnni 

(lit.  father  and  mother). 
Passport,  bassaborlo.  Here  is  my 

passport,     dho     el -bassaborlo 

betd'i. 
Pay,  to,  dafa'.   Thou  hast  not  yet 

paid,  lissa  md  dafa'tish.  I  shall 

pay,  'dwiz  adfa'. 
Peach,  khokha,  pi.  khokh. 
Pen,  risha.   Penholder,  kalam. 
Pepper,  fillil. 
Perhaps,  balki;  yimkin. 
Physician,  hakim,  pi.  hukama. 
Piastre,  kirsh,  pi.  kurilsh. 
Pig,  khanzir,  pi.  khandzir. 
Pigeon,  hamdma,  pi.  hamdm. 
Pilgrim   (to   Mecca),    hagg ,    pi. 

higgdg. 
Pistachios,  fistuk. 
Place,  to,  see  Lay. 
Plate,  sahn,  pi.  suhiin. 
Please,  min  fadlak! 


Vocabulary.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


xli 


Please,  to.  It  does  not  please  me, 
m&  yi'gibnhh. 

Plums,  barkHk. 

Pocket,  geib. 

Poison,  simm. 

Policeman ,    bolls   or  shauwish. 
Police,  bolts. 

Pomegranate,  rumntan. 

Pond  (or  lake),  birkeh,  pi.  birak. 

Poor,  fakir,  v\askin,  pi.  fuAara, 
masdktn. 

Port  (harbour),  mina. 

Porter,  bammdl  or  shaiyal;  pi. 
hammalin,  shaiydUn. 

Postage  -  stamp  ,  warakat  bu-ita, 
pi.  warak. 

Post-office,  liusta. 

Pot,  kidra,  pi.  kidar. 

Poultry,  firdkh'.    See  Fowl. 

Prayer,  said,  f\.  saldivdt.  Caller 
to  prayer,  mu'eddin. 

Pretty,  kwaiyis ;  gamil. 

Previously,  kabl. 

Privy,  kanlf,  beit  er-rdha.  Where 
is  the  privy?  el-kanif  fein? 

Promontory,  rds. 

Prophet,  nabl  or  (applied  to  Mo- 
hammed) rasdl. 

Pulpit,  minbar  or  manbar. 

Put,  to.  Put  it  here,  glbiih.  Put  it 
above,  tallauh.  Put  it  below, 
nazziluh.    See  Send,  Lay. 

Pyramid,  hdram,  pi.  ahrdm. 

Quarrel,  khindka. 

Question,  su'dl. 

Quick,  fcatpam;  as  an  exclamation, 
yallah  ! 

Railway,  es-sikkeh  el-hadid.  Rail- 
way station,  mahatta.  Station- 
master,  ndzir  mahntta.  Rail- 
way-train, fcatr.  Goods -train 
kalr  el-budd'a.  Railway -car- 
riage, 'arabiyeh. 

Rain,  natar. 

Razor,  mUs.  [hadinn. 

Ready,  hddir.  We  are  ready,  ihna 

Receipt  (for  a  bill),  xuasl. 


Red,  ahmar. 

Reliable,  faithful,  amh%. 

Religion,  din. 

Remain,  to,  fidil.  How  long  (i.  e. 
how  many  days)  wilt  thou  re- 
main hero?  tifdal  hineh  kdtn 
yom? 

Rest,  to,  istiraiyah.  I  have  rested, 
istiraiyalit.  I  wish  to  rest  for 
half-an-hour,  bidd7  astiraiyah 
nussi  sd'a. 

Revolver,  fard. 

Rice,  ruzz. 

Rich,  ghani. 

Ride,  to.  Wilt  thou  ride,  biddak 
tirkab?   See  also  Mount. 

Right,  yemin.  Turn  to  the  right, 
ruh  'alyemmak. 

Rise,  to,  kdm.    Rise  up,  kHm. 

Road,  see  Street. 

Roast,  to,  shawd.  I  have  roasted 
the  meat,  shaweit  el-lahm. 
Roasted,  mashwi.  —  Roast  meat, 
rosto. 

Robber,  hardmt,  pi.  hardmtyeh. 

Roof,  sath,  pi.  sutHh. 

Room,  oda,  pi.  uwad. 

Rope,  habl,  pi.  hebdl. 

Ruin,  khardbeh,  khirbeh.  Ruined 
temple,  birbeh. 

Run,  to,  gard.    Run,  igrt! 

Russia,  Bilnd  el-Moskob.  Russian 
(noun  or  adj.),  miskobi. 

Saddle,  sarg,  pi.  surdg.  Pack- 
saddle,  barda'a ,  pi.  barddi 
Saddler,  surug'i.  Saddle-bag. 
khurg. 

Sailor,  bahr7,  pi.  bahrhjeh.  Hivcr- 
boatman,  mardkbl. 

Salt,  malh. 

Sand,  rami. 

Satisfied,  shab'dn. 

Say,  to,  kdl.  Say  to  him  he  must 
come,  kill  luh  yigi. 

Scholar  (savant),  'dlim,  pi.  'ulamd. 

School.  Elementary  school,  kul- 
tdh.  Secoiidaryschool,  medreseh, 


xlii 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.     10.  Arabic 


pi.  maddris.  —  Schoolmaster, 

khoga;  fiki  (of  a  kuttat). 
Scissors,  makass. 
Scorpion,  'akraba,  pi.  'akdrib. 
Sea,  bahr. 
See,  to,  to  look,  shdf.  We  saw  the 

Khedive,  shufnd  efendind.    Do 

you  not  see  him,    md  tahu- 

fuhsh  ? 
Seek ,  to  ,  dauwar.    1  have  been 

looking  for  thee  all  day,  dau- 

warteh  'aleik  tCtl  en-nahdr. 
Send,  to,  to  forward.     Send  the 

luggage  jOff,  khud  el-'afsh  or 

waddt  el-'afih. 
Serpent,  ta'bdn,T^\.ta'dbin;  haiyeh, 

pi.  haiydt. 
Servant,  &/ia(/(Zdm,  pi.  fcftaddamm. 
Set,  to,  see  Lay. 
Shave,  to,  halak. 
Sheep ,    kharuf    (masc.) ,   na'ga 

(fern.),  ghanam  (plur.). 
Ship,  markib,  pl.marafci6.  Steam- 
ship, wdbur  or  bdbur. 
Shirt,  kamis. 
Shoe    (i.e.    oriental    shoe    with 

turned  up  toes),  markub,  pi. 

mardklb . 
Slioot,  to,  darab  (/.  e.  to  heat),  if 

necessary    with    the    addition 

birrusds,  i.e.  with  the  lead. 
Short,  kusaiyar. 
Show,  to,  warrd.    Show  me  the 

way,  loarlnl  es-sikkeh. 
Shut,  to,  kafal.    Shut  the  door, 

ikp.1  el-bdb.    The  door  is  shut, 

el-bdb  makful. 
Silent,   to  be,    sikit.    Be  silent, 
Silk,  harir.  [uskut. 

Silver,  fadda. 
Sing,  to,  ghannd.    He  wiU  sing, 

yeghanni.    Sing,  ghanru. 
Singly  (one  after  the  other),  wdhid 

wdhid  (masc.) ;  wahdeh  wahdeh 

(fein.). 
Sir,  khawdga  (for  Europeans)  or 

efendi  (for  Orientals). 


Sister,  ukht,  pi.  ukhivdt. 

Sit,  to,  ka'ad.    Sit  (take  a  seat), 

uk'ud. 
Sky,  samd. 
Sleep,  to,  nam.  1  slept,  nimt.  He 

sleeps,  binCim.  Sleep  (imperat. 

pi.),  ndinu !  I  cannot  sleep,  md 

bakdarsh  andm.  To  go  to  sleep, 

see  Lie  down. 
Slippers,  bantuflt 
Slowly.       Go    slowly ,     xhwaiyeh 

shwaiyeh,  or  'ala  mahlak. 
Small,  sughaiyar. 
Smoketobacco,to,«/im6(lit.  drink) 

ed-dukhkhdn.    Comp.  Never. 
Snow,  ice,  telg. 
So,  kideh. 
Soap,  sdbun. 
Sofa,  diwdn. 
Soldier,    'askarl,    pi.    'askariyeh. 

Soldiery,  'askar. 
Son,  ibn  or  ivalad,  pi.  iddd. 
Sort,  gins.    Give  me  some  of  this 

sort,  iddmi  min  el-ginseh  di. 
Soup,  shurba. 
Sotir,  hdmid. 
South,  southern,  kibli. 
Speak,  to,  itkalUm.     Dost  thou 

speak  Arabic,  titkaUim  'arabi? 
Spoon,  ma'laka,  pi.  ma'dlik. 
Spring  (of  water),  'ain,  pi.  'iyun. 
Spring  (season),  rabV. 
Square  (in  a  town),  middn. 
Star,  nigmeh,  pi.  nugum.  Falling 

star,  nigmeh  zdrik. 
Start  (on  a  journey),   to,    sdfir. 

When  will  you  start,    tesdfiru. 

imta?  We  will  start  to-morrow 

morning,   nesdfir    bukra  hadr'i 

(at  sunrise,  ma'ash-shems;  an 

hour  before  sunrise,  sd'a  kabl 

esh-shems).     When    does     the 

steamer  start,  el-bdbur  yesdfir 
Stay,  to,  see  Remain.  [imtay 

Ste&mhoa,t,bdburel-bahrov  wdbur 

el-bahr.    El-bahr  is  frequently 

omitted. 


Vocabulary.     1.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION. 


xliii 


Stick,  'asdya,  pi.  'asdydt. 

Still.  Still  more,  kamdn.  Still 
another,  kamdn  trdhid,  (/heir. 

Stirrup,  rikdb,  pi.  rikdbdt. 

Stone,  hagar,  pi.  hegdra.  Stone 
(of  a  fruit),  nakdya. 

Stop,  to,  see  Halt. 

Straight  on,  dughri. 

Street  or  road,  tarik ;  derb,  darb ; 
sikkeh.  Main  street  (of  a  town) 
shdri'  (comp.  p.  35 ). 

Strike,  to,  see  Heat. 

Strong,  shedld  (also  violent). 

Stupid,  haVid.    See  Clumsy. 

Sugar,  sukkar.  Coffee  with  sugar, 
kahwa  bis-sukkar.  Coffee  with- 
out sugar,  kahiva  mingheir  suk- 

Summer,  self.  [kar  or  sddeh. 

Sun,  shems^OT sems).  Sunrise,  tuliV 
e.ih-shems.  Sunset,  maghreb. 
Sunstroke:  he  has  had  a  sun- 
stroke, esh-shems  darbetuh. 

Sunshade,  shems^yeh. 

Sweep  out,  to,  kanas.  I  have  swept 
out  the  room,  kanad  el-oda. 
Sweep  the  loom^uknus el-6da. 

Sweet,  helu. 

Syria,  Esh-Shdm.  Syrian  (noun 
or  adj.),  shdm'i. 

Table,  sufra;  larabeiza. 

Tailor,  khaiydt. 

Take,  to,  khad.  Take,  khud!  He 
takes  or  will  take,  ydkhud. 

Take  away,  to,  shdl.  Take  it  away 
(or  up),  sMluh  I 

Taste,  to.  Taste  tlie  soup,  duk 
esh-shurba. 

Tea,  shdy. 

Teacher,  mu'allim.      See  also 
Schoolmaster. 

Telegraph,  teleghrdf  (also  tele- 
gram). Telegrapli-wire,  aUk. 
Telegraph-offlcial,  t  eleghrdfgl . 
I  wish  to  telegraph  ,  ana  hiddi 
adrab  teleghrdf. 

Telescope,  nadddra. 

Temple-ruin,  birbeh. 


Tent,  kheima,  pi.  khiyam.  Tent- 
pole,  'amdd.  Tent-peg,  xi'atad. 

Thanks,  thank  yon,  kattarkheirak. 

There,  hindk.  There  he  is,  dhu ! 
There  she  is,  dhi!  Is  there  any 
bread  there,  fth  'evsh?  Tli:;re 
is  none,  md  fluh. 

Thing,  /tdjfa,  s^hei. 

Thirsty,  'atshdn. 

Ticket,  tezkereh,  pi.  lazdker. 

Tie,  to,  rabat.  I  have  tied,  rabatt. 
Tie  it,  urbutuh!  He  (it)  is  tied 
(on),  marbut. 

Time,  loaJct.  See  O'clock  and  Hour. 

Tired,  ta'bdn. 

Tobacco,  dukhkhdn.  Water-pipe, 
shisheh.    See  Smoke. 

To-day,  en-nahdr-di  (na/tar=day). 

To-morrow,  bukra. 

Tongue,  lisdn. 

Too  much,  very,  kel7r.  Too  little, 
shuwaiyeh  or  shwahjeh. 

Tooth,  sinn,  pi.  isndn. 

Towel,  futd  (also  table-napkin). 

Town,  medtneh,   pi.  mudun. 
Quarter  of  a  town,  hdra. 

Travel  (to)  is  expressed  by  tlie 
word  for  go,  with  the  addition 
of  b'd-arab7yeh,  by  carriage; 
bil-feluka,  by  boat;  bU-m:irkib, 
by  ship,  etc. 

Travelling-bag,  see  Box,  Saddle- 
bag. 

Tree,  shagara,  pi.  ashgdr  (also 
shrub). 

Trousers   (European),    bantalun. 

True,  saMh.  [See  Clothes. 

Turkey,  Turkhja,  Turk,  Turkish, 

Ugly,  wihish.  [turM. 

Uncle,  amm (paternal);  /i/tdi (ma- 
ternal). 

Understand,  to,  fihim.  I  have 
understood  thee,  fihimlak.  I  do 
not  understand,  mdnlsh  fdhim. 

Untrutliful,  kadddb. 

Upper.  The  upper  route,  et-tarlk 
el-fokdnl. 


xliv 


I.  PRELIMINARY  INFORMATION.      lU.  Arabic 


Use,  to  be  of,  nafn'.  It  is  no  use, 
ma  yinfa'sh. 

Vainly,  in  vain,  baldsh. 

Valley,  tvddt  (wddi). 

Very,  ketlr;  kawt;  khalis. 

Village,  beled,  pi.  bildd.  Village 
teadman,  sheikh  el-beled. 

Vinegar,  khall. 

Violent,  shedid. 

Visit,  ziydra. 

Wages ,  ugra ,  kireh.  Monthly 
wages,  shahrhjeh,  mdhlyeh. 

Wait,  to,  islannd.  Wait  a  little, 
istannd  shxuaiyeh.  Why  didst 
thou  not  wait,  'ashshdn  ei  md 
stanneitsh? 

Waiter,  siifragl. 

War,  harb. 

Wash,  to,  (jhaaal.  I  wisii  to  wash 
ray  hands,  biddl  aghsil  ideiya. 
Wash  my  clothes,  ighsilhudujm. 
The  washing,  ghasU.  How  much 
does  the  washing  cost,  taman 
el -gha.nl  kdm?  Washerman, 
ghassdl.   Washerwoman,  ghas- 

AVatch,  sd'a,  pi.  sd'dt.  [sdla. 

Watchmaker,  sd'dtl. 

Watchman,  ghaftr,  pi.  ghufara. 

Water,  maiyeh.  Is  there  any  water 
here?  flh  maiyeh  hineh? 

Water-closet,  sec  Privy. 

Weak,  da'tf. 

Weather,  hawd  (also  atmosphere 
and  wind). 

Week,  pum'a.  Fortnight  (2  weeks), 
gum'atein.  Three  weeks,  taldteh 
gum'dt.  —  Days  of  the  week: 
Sun.,  yom  el-hadd;  Mon.,  yom 
el-itnein;  Tues.,  yom  et-taldt; 
Wed.,  yom  el-arba' ;  Thurs., 
yom,  el-khamis;  Frid.,  yom  el- 
gum  a;  Sa.t.,  yom,  es-sabt.  Yom 
(day)  is  frequently  omitted. 
Well,    Mr,    pi.    abydr.     Public 

fountain,  sebil. 
West,  gharb.    Western,  gharbi. 


Wet,  mabltll. 
When,  imta'i 

Whence, min em.'  Whence  coinest 
thou,  inta  gdi  (fem.,  mt?  jiaj/eh) 
min  ein  ? 
Where,  fein?  Where  is  he,  hHwa 
Whip,  kurbdg;  sot.  [fein? 

White,  abyad. 

Whither,  fein?    Whither  goest 
thou,  inta  rdih  (fem.,  inti  rdiha) 
fein? 
Why,   lei?  minshdn  ei?  'alashdn 

('ashshdn)  ei? 
Wide,  ivdsi'. 
Wind,    hawd;   rih.     Hot  wind, 

khamdsin;  samum. 
Window,  shibbdk,  pi.  shebdbik. 
Wine,  nebid. 
Winter,  shita. 

Wish  or  to  wish,  talab.  What  dost 
thou  wish,  talabak  ei?  To  wisli 
is  also  expressed  by  bidd,  a 
wish,  with  suffixes  (p.  xxx). 
I  -wish  to  go,  biddi  aruh.  Dost 
thou  wish  to  go,  biddak  teruh  ? 
With,  wtyd,,  ma'.  Come  with  me, 

ta'dla  wiydya. 
Within,  gdwa. 
Without  (prep.),  min  gheir. 
Woman,    mar  a   or  hurmeh;    pi. 

harim.  or  niswdn. 
Wood  (substance),  khashab. 
Work,  shughl.    Work,  ishtaghal.' 
Write,  to,  katab.    He  will  write 
yiktib.    Write  what  I  tell  thee, 
iktib  nil  akullak. 
Year,  sana.  Two  years,  sanatein. 
Three  years,  taldteh  sinm.  This 
year,   es-sand-di.     Last   year, 
'dmenauwil. 
Yellow,  asfar. 

Yes,  a'iwa.    Certainly,  na'am. 
Yesterday,  embdreh. 
Yet,  lissa.  He  has  not  yet  arrived, 

lissa  md  gdsh. 
Young,  sughaiyar. 


Vocabulary.     I.  PRELIMINARY  INFOliMATloN.  xlv 

Salutations  and  Phrases.  Health  (peacej  te  with  you.  Es- 
saldmu  'aleikum.  Answer :  And  with  you  be  peace  and  God's  mercy 
and  blessing.  V  'aleikum  es-salam  warahmet  Allah  wabarakdtuh. 
These  greetings  are  used  by  Moslems  to  each  other.  A  Moslem  greets 
a  Christian  with  —  Thy  day  be  happy.  Nahdrak  sa'td.  Answer :  Thy 
day  be  happy  and  blessed.  Nahdrak  sa'td  wemubdrak  (umbdrak). 
Thy  day  be  white  as  milk.   Nahdrak  leben. 

Good  morning.  Sabdhkum  bil-klteir,  ot  sabdh  el-khelr.  Answer: 
God  grant  yon  a  good  morning.    Allah  yisabbehkum  bil-kheir. 

Good  evening.  Mesdkiun  bil-kheir,  or  meslkum  bil-klieir.  Answer : 
God  vouchsafe  you  a  good  evening.  Allah  yiniesslkum  bil-kheir;  or 
messdkum  Alldh  bil-kheir.  —  May  thy  night  be  happy.  Leiltfk 
sa'tdeh.    Answer:  Leiltak  sa'ideh  wemubdraka  (xfumharka). 

On  visiting  or  meeting  a  person ,  the  first  question  after  the 
usual  salutations  is  :  How  is  thy  health  ?  Iza'iyak,  or  keif  hdlak  (keif 
keifak),  or  eish  hdlak  ?  Thanks  are  first  expressed  for  the  inquiry : 
God  bless  thee ;  God  preserve  thee.  Alldh  yibdrek  fik ;  Alldhyihfazak 
Then  follows  the  answer  :  Well,  thank  God.  El-hamdu  lilldh.  —  Be- 
duins  and  peasants  sometimes  ask  the  same  question  a  dozen  times. 

After  a  person  has  drunk  it  is  usual  for  his  friends  to  raise 
their  hands  to  their  heads  and  say :  May  it  agree  with  thee,  sir. 
HanVan,  yd  sidi.  Answer:  God  grant  it  may  agree  with  thee. 
Alldh  yehanntk. 

On  handing  anything  to  a  person :  Take  it.  Khud.  Answer : 
God  increase  thy  goods.  Kattar  Alldh  kheirak,  or  kattar  kheirak. 
Reply:  And  thy  goods  also.    Ukheirak. 

On  leaving:  In  God's  care !  'Alallnh!  or  Ft  amuni  Hldh !  Or, 
Now  proceed  with  us.  Yallah  bina.  To  a  person  who  is  about  to 
start  on  a  journey :  Peace  be  with  thee.  Ma' as-saldma.  Answer: 
May  God  protect  thee.    Alldh  yisallimak. 

On  the  route:  Welcome.  Ahlan  tea  sahlan,  or  marhaba.  Answer: 
Twice  welcome.    Marhabteirt. 

I  beg  you  (to  enter,  to  eat,  to  take).  Tafaddal  (tefaddul, 
itfaddal);  fem.  tafaddali  (itfaddali);  pi.  tafaddalu  (lefaddalu, 
itfaddalil).  —  Wilt  thou  not  join  us  (in  eating)?  Bismilldh  (liter- 
ally 'in  God's  name').   Answer:  May  it  agree  with  you,  Bil-hand. 

Take  care;  beware.    C'd;  fem.  ^'i. 

I  am  under  thy  protection ;  save  me.  Fl'ardak.  —  My  house  is 
thy  house.  Beitt  beitak.  —  If  thou  pleasest.    J'rnil  ma'riif. 

What  God  pleases  ('happens',  understood).  Mushalldit  (an  ex- 
clamation of  surprise).  —  As  God  pleases,  hishalldh.  —  By  God. 
Walldh,  or  walldhi.  —  By  thy  head.  Wahydt  rdsak.  —  By  the  life 
of  the  prophet.  Wahydt  en-nab1.  —  By  the  life  of  thy  father.  Wahydt 
((  bilk.  —  Heavens  I    Yd  saldm  .' 


xlvi 

II.  Geographical  and  Political  Notes. 

a.  Area  and  Subdivisions  of  Egypt,  i 
By  Captain  H.  G.  Lyons. 
Egypt  proper,  the  country  between  the  mouth  of  the  Nile  and 
the  First  Cataract,  is  a  small  region  with  well-defined  natural  bound- 
aries on  three  sides.  On  the  N,  is  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  on  the  E. 
the  Arabian  Desert  and  the  Red  Sea,  and  on  the  W.  the  Libyan  Des- 
ert. The  S.  boundary  is  not  marked  by  any  natural  feature,  and  has 
therefore  at  all  ages  been  liable  to  alteration.  Its  fluctuations  to  the 
N.  and  S.  form  a  kind  of  standard  of  the  political  power  of  Egypt, 
and  the  causes  of  the  variations  involve  a  great  part  of  Egyptian 
history  from  the  most  ancient  times  down  to  the  present  day. 

When  Mohammed  Ali,  the  founder  of  the  modern  vassal  king- 
dom of  Egypt  (comp.  pp.  cxx  at  seq.),  died  in  1849,  he  bequeathed 
to  his  successor  a  power  extending  far  to  the  S.  of  the  First  Cataract 
and  including  not  only  the  Nubian  Valley  of  the  Nile,  with  the  Nu- 
bian desert-regions,  but  also  the  so-called  Egyptian  Sudan  (Bilad 
es-Sudan,  'land  of  the  blacks'),  consisting  of  the  districts  of  Taka, 
Sennar,  and  Kordofan.  The  Khedive  Isma'il  (p.  cxxii)  pushed  his 
boundaries  towards  the  S.  until  they  comprised  the  whole  course  of 
the  White  Nile  and  the  greater  part  of  the  basin  of  the  Bahr  el- 
Ohazdl^  and  finally  extended  to  about  2°  N.  latitude.  But  the  rebellion 
of  the  Arab  tribes  that  broke  out  in  1883  under  the  Mahdi  (p.  cxxiv) 
utterly  destroyed  the  new  Egyptian  power  on  the  White  Nile  and 
caused  the  frontier  to  be  withdrawn  to  Wadi  Haifa.  The  cam- 
paigns of  1896-98  and  the  capture  of  Omdurman  (p.  cxxv),  how- 
ever, finally  united  the  Sudan  with  Egypt,  though  under  totally 
altered  conditions.  Thus  Egypt  strictly  so  called  now  includes  the 
valley  of  the  Nile  up  to  a  point  27  M.  to  the  N.  of  Wadl  Haifa,  the 
desert-strip  along  the  Red  Sea,  the  coast  to  the  W.  of  Alexandria 
as  far  as  the  Gulf  of  Solum,  the  Libyan  Desert  with  the  five  Oases, 
the  greater  part  of  the  Sinai  Peninsula,  and  the  region  of  El-'Arish 
(comp.  Baedekers  Palestine).  Its  extreme  length  is  640  M.  (N.  lat. 
3i°6'to22^),  its  breadth  596  M.  (E.  long.25°2'  to  34"56'),  and  its 
area,  inclusive  of  the  deserts,  ca.  400,000  sq.  M.  The  area  of 
Egypt  proper,  excluding  the  deserts,  the  oases,  and  the  districts  of 
El-'Arish,  Sinai,  Maryut,  Mirsa  Matruh,  Ed-Daba',  and  Koseir,  is 
about  12,000  sq.  M.  The  Sudan,  which  begins  on  the  Nile  a  little 
to  the  N.  of  Wadi  Haifa  and  on  the  Red  Sea  at  22°  N.  lat.,  is  under 
a  special  Anglo-Egyptian  administration  (comp.  p.  415). 

From  the  earliest  times  Egypt  has  been  divided  into  two  parts 
of  very  unequal  size,  known  as  Lower  and  Upper  Egypt.  The 
boundary  between  these  is  still,  as  in  antiquity,  to  the  S.  of  Cairo. 

t  Comp.  the  Map  after  the  Index.  —  Further  details  on  this  subject 
are  contained  in  a  handy  form  in  the  Egyptian  Government  Almanac 
(comp.  p.  xcv). 


II.  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTES.  xlvii 

Upper  Egypt,  known  as  Es-Sa'id,  extends  nominally  to  the  First 
Cataract  only,  but  now  embraces  in  a  political  sense  most  of  Lower 
Nubia  (comp.  p.  384).  Politically  Egypt  is  now  divided  into  fourteen 
Peovinces  or  MMlrlijeh.  The  provinces  of  Lower  Egypt  are :  (1 ) 
KalyuMyeh  (Qaliubia),  at  the  head  of  the  Delta,  with  Benha  as  its 
capital;  (2)  Sharktyeh  (Sharqia),  i.e.  'the  eastern',  with  Zakazik  as 
its  capital;  (3)  i>«fca/iiZi/e/i  (Daqahlia),  with  Mansura  as  its  capi- 
tal; (4)  Menufiyeh  (Menulia),  with  Shibin  el-K6m  as  its  capital; 
(5)  Qharbtyeh  (Gharbia),  i.e.  'the  western',  with  Tanta  as  its  capi- 
tal;  (6)  Beheireh  (BehehsL),  i.e.  'of  the  lake',  with  Damanhur  as  its 
capital.  The  last  includes  the  oasis  of  Siweh.  The  following  live 
governorates  are  presided  over  by  governors  (Mohafez)  of  their 
own,  and  are  independent  of  the  provincial  administration :  Cairo, 
Alexandria,  Port  Sa'id,  Isma'iliyeh,  and  Suez.  Sinai  and  El-'Arish 
are  administered  by  the  War  Office.  The  eight  Upper  Egyptian 
provinces  are  those  of  Qizeh  (Giza),  JSeTOSue?/ (Beni  Suef),  FaiyCim 
(Fayum),  Minyeh  (Minia ;  with  the  oases  of  Bahriyeh  and  Fardfru), 
Assidt  (with  the  oases  of  DCtkhleh  and  KlidrgeK),  Girgeh  (Girga  j  capi- 
tal, Sohag),  Keneh  (Qena),  and  Assudn  (Aswan). 

The  chief  official  in  every  province  is  the  Mddir  or  Governor. 
Each  mudir  is  assisted  by  a  sub-mudir,  a  commandant  of  police,  a 
sanitary  inspector,  and  an  engineer  (for  irrigation  and  buildings). 
The  interior  economy  and  the  financial  procedure  are  subject  to  in- 
vestigation by  European  inspectors  from  the  Ministries  of  the  In- 
terior and  Finance,  while  others  from  the  Ministry  of  Public  Works 
and  the  Health  Department  control  the  technical  work.  The  14  pro- 
vinces are  subdivided  into  84  districts,  called  Markaz,  the  chief 
officials  of  which  (Ma'mur)  are  directly  subordinate  to  the  mudir 
and  have  their  official  residence  in  the  more  important  towns.  The 
markaz,  in  their  turn,  are  divided  into  Ndhiyeh,  or  communes,  which 
include,  besides  the  chief  village,  hamlets,  settlements  of  agricul- 
tural labourers  ('Ezbeh),  and  landed  estates  (Ab'adlyeh).  The  'Om- 
deh,  or  chief  magistrate  of  the  commune,  is  directly  responsible  to 
the  ma'mur.  In  the  larger  communes  the  'omdeh  is  assisted  by  the 
Sheikh  el-Beled,  or  mayor.  The  governorates  are  divided  into  quar- 
ters (Kism),  each  of  which  has  its  ma'mur. 

According  to  the  census  of  1907  the  Population  of  Egypt  proper 
was  11,287,359,  of  whom  10,903,677  were  settled  natives,  97,381 
were  Beduins,  and  286,301  were  foreigners  (147,220  Europeans 
including  20,653  British).  The  numbers  of  males  and  females  were 
approximately  equal.  The  settled  population  was  distributed  in 
2  large  cities  (Cairo  and  Alexandria),  43  other  towns  with  upwards 
of  10,000  inhab.,  and  3580  villages.  The  above  figures  show  a  po- 
pulation of  940  per  sq.  M.  for  Egypt  proper,  a  density  unequalled 
by  any  country  in  Europe  (England  and  Wales  619,  New  York 
State  191,  Saxony  830  per  sq.  M.).  The  total  populaiton  in  1897 
was  9,784,405,  in  1882  it  was  0,831,131. 


xlviii  II.  GEOGRAPJIICAL  AND 

b.  Origin  and  Present  Condition  of  the  Egyptians. 

By  Professor  G.  Schwein/urlh. 
For  thousands  of  years  the  banks  of  the  Nile  have  been  occupied 
by  the  Egyptians.  Notwithstanding  the  interminable  series  of 
immigrations  and  other  changes  affecting  the  character  of  the 
inhabitants,  the  Egyptian  type  has  always  predominated  with  mar- 
vellous uniformity.  As  Egypt  is  said  to  be  the  'gift  of  the  Nile',  so 
has  the  character  of  its  inhabitants  been  apparently  moulded  by  the 
influences  of  that  river.  No  country  in  the  world  is  so  dependent 
on  a  river  which  traverses  it  as  Egypt,  and  no  river  presents  physical 
characteristics  so  exceptional  as  the  Nile;  so,  too,  there  exists  no  race 
of  people  which  possesses  so  marked  and  unchanging  an  individual- 
ity as  the  Egyptians.  It  is  therefore  most  probable  that  this  unvary- 
ing type  is  the  product  of  the  soil  itself,  and  that  the  character  cf 
the  peoples  who  settled  at  different  periods  on  the  bank  of  the  Nile, 
whatever  it  may  originally  have  been,  has  in  due  course  of  time 
been  moulded  to  the  same  constant  form  by  the  mysterious  in- 
fluences of  the  river.  In  all  countries,  indeed,  national  characteris- 
tics are  justly  regarded  as  the  natural  outcome  of  soil  and  climate, 
and  of  this  connection  no  country  affords  so  strong  an  illustration 
as  Egypt,  with  its  sharply  defined  boundaries  of  sea  and  desert,  and 
in  its  complete  isolation  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  This  fidelity  to 
type,  which  doubtless  many  other  oriental  races  share  with  the 
Egyptians,  is  by  no  means  in  accordance  with  common  theories  as 
to  the  decline  and  degeneration  of  the  Orient.  These  races  seem  to 
possess  an  innate  capacity  that  is  absent  from  Western  nations  — 
the  capacity,  namely,  of  permanently  preserving  the  original  type. 
In  Egypt  this  tendency  may  be  partly  assisted  by  the  universal 
practice  of  early  marriages,  by  which  the  succession  of  generations 
is  accelerated,  while  many  children  are  born  of  parents  still  un- 
affected by  any  physical  deterioration.  Although  the  country  has 
been  at  various  periods  overrun  by  Hyksos,  Ethiopians,  Assyrians, 
Persians,  Greeks,  Romans,  Arabs,  and  Turks,  and  although  the  people 
were  tyrannized  over,  ill-treated,  and  in  most  cases  compelled  to  in- 
termarry with  these  foreigners,  the  Egyptians  have  for  thousands  of 
years  retained  the  same  unvarying  physical  types,  while  their  char- 
acter has  been  but  slightly  modified  by  the  introduction  of  Christianity 
and  Mohammedanism.  If  it  now  be  borne  in  mind  that  these  for- 
eigners generally  invaded  the  country  in  the  form  of  an  army,  that 
they  formed  but  a  small  body  compared  with  the  bulk  of  the  popula- 
tion, and  that  they  either  married  native  women  or  sought  wives 
in  other  countries,  it  is  obvious  that  they  would  either  continue  to 
exist  for  a  time  as  a  foreign  caste,  a  condition  apparently  repugnant 
to  nature  and  necessarily  transient,  or  that  they  would  gradually 
succumb  to  the  never-failing  influences  of  the  soil  and  be  absorbed 
in  the  great  mass  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants.  An  excellent  il- 
lustration of  this  process  is  afforded  by  the  Arabian  iuTasion,  with 


POLITICAL  NOTES.  xlix 

the  cireunistaiices  and  results  of  wliicli  wc  are  better  acquainted 
than  with  the  history  of  the  other  foreign  immigrations;  for,  dis- 
regarding the  Beduin  trihes,  ■who  are  entirely  distinct  from  the 
Egyptian  population,  v'e  now  meet  with  genuine  Arabs  in  the  towns 
only,  where  the  merchants,  pilgrims,  and  other  members  of  that 
people  form  a  class  entirely  distinct  from  the  natives,  and  one  that 
is  maintained  only  by  means  of  reinforcements  from  abroad.  Another 
proof  of  the  transforming  influences  of  the  Egyptian  climate  is 
afforded  by  the  uniform  character  of  the  domestic  animals.  The 
oxen,  in  particular,  though  they  have  often  been  repeatedly  ex- 
terminated in  a  single  century  by  murrain,  and  have  been  succeeded 
by  foreign  races  from  every  quarter  of  the  globe,  almost  invariably 
after  a  few  generations  assume  the  well-known  Egyptian  type  witli 
whicli  the  representations  on  the  ancient  temples  render  us  so  familiar. 

There  have  been  many  hypotheses  as  to  the  origin  of  the  Egyp- 
tians. In  all  probability  the  rise  and  development  of  that  people 
followed  essentially  the  same  course  as  those  of  other  great  races, 
whose  geographical  positions  exposed  them  to  a  similar  variety  of 
external  inflnences.  In  the  course  of  its  history  this  people  attained 
a  characteristic  development  of  its  own;  but  we  have  to  inquire  as 
to  the  nature  of  the  original  prehistoric  stock.  In  classical  antiquity 
the  Egyptians  were  considered  to  be  of  African  origin,  and  Diodorus 
has  given  expression  to  this  view  by  quoting  a  tradition  of  the 
Ethiopians,  according  to  which  the  Egyptians  were  originally  an 
Ethiopian  colony,  just  as  their  country  itself  is  a  product  of  the 
Nile.  But  the  Greeks  and  Romans  knew  little  of  Central  Africa, 
and,  more  especially,  they  were  acquainted  with  none  of  the  peoples 
of  the  Nile  district  except  those  whom  we  now  distinguish  as  Hami- 
tic  (proto-Semitic).  The  term  Hamites  or  Hamitic  races  is  used  to 
distinguish  that  great  ethnographic  group  of  peoples  which  has,  in 
the  <ourse  of  ages,  altered  the  population  of  half  Africa,  ever  press- 
ing from  E.  to  W.  and  driving  out  the  primaeval  population  before 
them.  The  final  stage  of  this  migration,  which,  like  those  of  the 
horse  and  camel,  falls  partly  within  the  historic  period,  was  reached 
when  the  Hamites  came  in  contact  with  the  later  Semitic  races. 
When  these  Hamitic  peoples  began  to  find  their  way  from  Asia 
across  the  Red  Sea  into  Africa,  they  no  doubt  pushed  down  the 
Nile,  after  subduing  the  primaval  inhabitants  of  the  river-valley. 
The  Ethiopian  tradition  thus  agrees  with  the  Biblical,  which  de- 
scribes Ham  as  the  father  of  Mizraim  and  Cush  —  names  under 
which  the  ancient  Hebrews  used  to  personify  Egypt  and  Ethiopia. 

The  civilization  and  culture  of  the  Egyptians  have  been  suc- 
cessively affected  by  every  race  that  has  played  a  prominent  part 
in  W.  Asia,  from  the  ancient  Babylonians  to  the  modern  Arabs  and 
Turks.  Maspero  argues  for  a  gradual  infiltration  from  Libya  also 
in  the  earlier  epochs.  But  the  Libyans  were  themselves  Hamitic, 
no  less  than  the  Ethiopians  who  overtook  them  in  their  advance 

Basdgkkb's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  d 


1  11.   GEOGJIAPHIOAL  AND     h.  Modern  Egyptians: 

westwards.  Beceut  philologists  (such  as  Reiiilsch)  classify  the  Hani- 
Ites  from  their  linguistic  characteristics  as  the  prototype  of  the 
Semitic  family,  distinguished  by  more  elementary,  more  primitive 
forms.  It  is  universally  assumed  that  both  Hamites  and  Semites 
had  their  original  home  in  Asia.  At  what  period  each  hived  off 
from  the  original  common  stock  is  veiled  in  prehistoric  darkness. 
But  it  is  clear  that  Asiatic  influences  most  have  affected  the  dwellers 
on  the  Nile  even  before  the  introduction  of  the  art  of  tillage,  while 
the  valley  of  the  Nile  iu  Egypt  was  still  populated  by  pastoral 
races  —  a  conclusion  based  mainly  on  the  origin  of  the  domesticated 
ox  and  of  several  other  domestic  animals.  On  the  other  hand  the 
original  ancestor  of  the  Egyptian  domesticated  ass  was  peculiar  to 
Africa,  dwelling  among  the  mountains  and  steppe  sto  the  S.  of 
Egypt.  In  this  fact  we  find  an  indication  of  the  route  followed  by 
the  Hamitic  invaders  of  Egypt. 

The  beginning  of  anything  like  a  regular  political  development 
in  Egypt  cannot  be  dated  before  the  introduction  of  agriculture ; 
most  probably  it  began  with  the  cultivation  of  wheat  and  barley, 
grains  of  which  have  been  found  among  the  remains  in  the  most 
ancient  Egyptian  tombs,  dating  from  before  the  earliest  dynasty. 
The  origin  of  botli  these  cereals  is  indisputably  Asiatic;  their  first 
home  was  in  the  valley  of  the  Euphrates  or  in  some  more  central 
region  of  the  continent.  Besides  these  grains  the  funeral  offerings 
under  the  earliest  dynasties  included  also  linen,  wine,  and  the  pro- 
duce of  other  cultivated  plants,  originally  indigenous  to  W.  Asia. 

Some  of  the  earliest  ideal  conceptions  of  the  proto-Egyptians 
must  likewise  have  been  drawn  from  Asiatic  sources,  which,  however, 
in  this  case  are  to  be  looked  for  farther  to  the  S.  in  that  continent. 
Not  only  the  use  of  incense  but  also  the  sycamore  and  the  persea, 
the  two  sacred  trees  in  the  Egyptian  Pantheon,  were  known  in 
Egypt  from  the  very  earliest  period.  lUit  all  these  plants  are  ex- 
clusively indigenous  to  the  mountainous  regions  of  S.  Arabia  and 
the  adjoining  coasts  of  the  Bed  Sea;  they  could  have  been  derived 
from  no  other  source.  The  use  of  incense  is  as  ancient  as  the  most 
ancient  known  religion.  The  tree  called  by  the  Greeks  persea,  and 
known  to  modern  botanists  as  mimusops,  flourished  in  the  gardens 
of  ancient  Egypt ;  and  the  sycamore,  which  is  now  nowhere  found 
in  a  wild  state  outside  the  regions  mentioned  above,  is  to  be  seen 
all  over  Egypt  at  the  present  day. 

To  sum  up.  The  condition  of  the  prehistoric  dwellers  in  the 
Egyptian  Nile  valley  may  be  described  as  the  result  of  a  union  be- 
tween the  autochthonous  inhabitants  and  the  Hamitic  tribes  which, 
advancing  from  the  Red  Sea,  entered  the  country  from  regions  to 
the  S.  or  S.E.  of  Upper  Egypt.  After  along  interval  of  time' the 
ancient  dwellers  on  the  Nile  were  subjected  to  new  modifications, 
arising  from  the  predatory  attacks  of  a  race  that  had  attained  a  higher 
level  of  civilization.    This  latter  race  must  have  started  from  the 


Feltohin.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  li 

valley  of  tlie  Euphrates,  otherwise  it  would  not  have  been  able  to 
introduce  into  Egypt,  as  it  did,  the  knowledge  of  wheat  and  barley 
and  the  art  of  cultivating  them  with  the  plough,  the  knowledge  of 
copper,  bronze,  and  various  metallurgical  processes,  and  perhaps 
also  a  religious  system  of;  its  own  and  even  the  art  of  writing.  The 
net  result  of  the  whole  historical  process  was  Egyptian  civilization 
as  it  existed  under  the  Pliaraohs.  + 

The  MonKRN  Egyptians.  The  population  of  Egypt  is  composed 
of  the  following  ten  different  elements. 

[1).  The  Fkllahin  (felldk'in,  sing.  fellQh),  the  'tillers'  or  'pea- 
sants', with  whom  must  be  reckoned  the  Coptic  peasants  of  Upper 
Egypt,  form  the  bulk  of  the  population  and  may  be  regarded  as  the 
sinews  of  the  national  strength.  They  are  generally  slightly  above 
the  middle  height;  their  bones,  and  par^icnlarly  their  skulls,  are 
strong  and  massive;  and  their  wrists  and  ankles  are  powerful  and 
somewhat  clumsy.  ln\all  these  respects  the  fellahin,  like  their  do- 
mestic animals,  contrast  strongly  with  the  inhabitants  of  the  desert. 
Notwithstanding  this  largeness  of  frame,  however,  the  fellah  never 
grows  fat.  The  women  and  girls  are  particularly  remarkable  for 
their  slender  build.  The  men  generally  keep  their  heads  shaved, 
but  the  hair  of  the  soldiers  and  the  long  tresses  of  the  girls,  though 
always  black  and  thick,  is  smooth  and  wavy,  seldom  curly.  The  hair 
on  the  faces  of  the  men  is  scantier  and  more  curly. 

The  chief  peculiarity  of  the  Egyptians  is  the  remarkable  close- 
ness of  their  eyelashes  on  both  lids,  forming  a  dense,  double,  black 
fringe,  which  gives  so  animated  ari  expression  to  their  almond- 
shaped  eyes.  The  very  ancient  and  still  existing  custom  of  blacken- 
ing the  edges  of  the  eyelids  with  antimony  ('koM'),  which  is  said 
to  serve  a  sanitary  purpose,  contributes  to  enhance  this  natural 
expression.  The  eyebrows  are  always  straight  and  smooth  ,  never 
bushy.  The  mouth  is  wide  and  thick-lipped,  and  very  different 
from  that  of  the  Beduin  or  inhabitant  of  the  oases.  The  high  cheek- 
bones, the  receding  forehead,  the  lowness  of  the  bridge  of  the  nose, 
which  is  always  distinctly  separated  from  the  forehead,  and  the 
flatness  of  the  nose  itself,  are  the  chief  characteristics  of  the 
Egyptian  skull;  but,  as  the  jaws  project  less  than  those  of  most 
of  the  other  African  coloured  races,  it  has  been  assumed  that  the 
skull  is  Asiatic  and  not  African  in  shape.  The  Egyptian  peasantry 
liave  a  much  darker  complexion  than  their  compatriots  in  the  towns, 
and  their  colour  deepens  as  we  proceed  southwards ,  from  the  pale 
brown  of  the  inhabitant  of  the  Delta  to  the  dark  bronze  hue  of  the 
Upper  Egyptians.  There  is,  however,  a  difference  between  the  tint 
of  the  Nubians  and  that  of  the  Upper  Egyptians,  even  where  they 
live  in  close  contiguity,  the  former  being  more  of  a  reddish-brown. 

•}■  Prnf.  G.  Elliot  Smith's  study  of  the  earliest  remains  has,  however,  led 
him  to  essentially  diflereut  views  on  the  origia  of  the  Proto-Egyptians. 
Comp.  his  hook  mentioned  on  p.  clxxxviii. 

d* 


lii  II.  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     h.  Modern  Egyptians. • 

In  the  ancient  representations  women  are  painted  yellow  and  men 
red,  merely  because  the  former  were  paler  owing  to  their  indoor  life, 
while  the  men  were  browned  by  labouring  in  the  open  air(Virchow). 

The  dwelling  of  the  fellah  is  of  a  miserably  poor  description, 
consisting  generally  of  four  low  walls  formed  of  crude  bricks  of 
Nile  mud,  and  thatched  with  a  roof  of  durra  straw,  on  which  the 
poultry  roost.  In  the  interior  are  a  few  mats,  a  sheepskin,  several 
baskets  made  of  matting,  a  copper  kettle,  and  a  few  earthenware 
pots  and  wooden  dishes.  But  the  railway-traveller,  passing  througli 
the  Delta  for  the  first  time,  must  not  suppose  that  the  miserable, 
ruinous  huts  that  meet  his  eye  are  typical  of  all  peasants'  dwellings 
in  Egypt.  In  Central  and  Upper  Egypt  he  will  obtain  a  much  more 
favourable  impression.  The  fact  is,  that  beneath  an  ICgyptian  sky, 
houses  are  not  of  the  same  jiaramoUnt  importance  as  in  more  northern 
regions,  all  that  is  wanted  being  shelter  for  the  night.  The  day  is 
spent  in  the  open  air,  on  the  court  in  front  of  the  hut,  shaded  by 
acacia  trees,  among  whose  branches  the  pigeons  coo.  Here  the  fellah 
spends  his  'keif  or  leisure,  chatting  with  his  neighbours  and  spin- 
ning wool  from  a  spindle  that  he  turns  in  his  hand. 

The  poorer  peasant's  mode  of  life  is  frugal  in  the  extreme. 
His  meals  may  be  summarily  characterized  as  'short,  scant,  and 
bad'.  The  staple  of  his  food  consists  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  bread 
made  of  sorghum  flour  in  Upper  Egypt,  or  of  maize  in  the  Delta, 
wheaten  bread  being  eaten  by  the  wealthier  only.  This  poor  kind 
of  bread  often  has  a  greenish  colour,  owing  to  an  admixture  of  flour 
made  from  the  kernels  of  Fcenum  Graecum  (see  below).  Next  in 
importance  in  the  bill  of  fare  are  broad  beans  (ful).  For  supper, 
however,  even  the  poorest  cause  a  hot  repast  to  be  prepared.  This 
usually  consists  of  a  highly  salted  sauce  made  of  onions  and  butter, 
or  in  tlie  poorer  houses  of  onions  and  linseed  or  sesame  oil.  Into 
this  sauce,  which  in  summer  acquires  a  gelatinous  consistency  by 
the  addition  of  the  universal  bamyas  (the  capsular  fnut  of  the 
Hibiscus)  and  various  herbs,  each  member  of  the  family  dips  pieces 
of  bread  held  in  the  fingers.  Both  in  town  and  country,  goats', 
sheep's,  or  buffaloes'  milk  also  forms  a  daily  article  of  food,  but 
always  in  a  sour  condition  or  half  converted  into  cheese,  and  in 
very  moderate  quantities  only.  In  the  height  of  summer  the  con- 
sumption of  fruit  of  the  cucumber  and  pumpkin  species,  which  the 
land  yields  in  abundance,  is  enormous.  In  spring  large  quantities 
of  lettuce,  radish-leaves,  and  similar  green  vegetables  are  eaten ; 
and  the  lower  classes  consume,  for  medical  purposes  during  .January 
and  February,  considerable  amounts  of  Fcenum  Grjecum,  a  clover-like 
plant  with  a  somewhat  disagreeable  odour  (p.lxxiv).  In  the  month 
of  Ramadan  alone  (p.  xcvi),  when  a  rigorous  fast  is  observed  during 
the  day,  and  on  the  three  days  of  the  great  Bairam  festival  (Kurban 
Beiram),  even  the  poorest  indulge  in  meat,  and  it  is  customary  to 
distribute  that  rare  luxury  to  beggars  at  these  seasons. 


FeUahin.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  liii 

The  dress  of  tbe  Egyptian  peasant  calLs  I'or  little  remark,  espe- 
cially as  he  usually  works  in  the  fields  divested  of  everything  except 
a  scanty  apron.  The  chief  articles  of  his  wardrobe  at  other  times 
are  an  indigo-dyed  cotton  shirt  (kamts),  a  pair  of  short  and  wide  cotton 
breeches,  a  kind  of  cloak  of  brown,  home-spun  goats'  wool  ('abdyeh), 
ox  simply  a  blanket  of  sheep's  wool  (hirdm),  and  lastly  a  close- 
fitting  felt  skull-cap  (libdeh).  He  is  generally  barefooted,  but  occa- 
sionally wears  pointed  red  (marktih)  or  broad  yellow  shoes  (balgha). 
The  sheikhs  and  wealthier  peasants  wear  wide,  black  woollen  cloaks 
and  the  thick  red  'Tunisian'  fez  (tarhush)  with  a  blue  silk  tassel, 
round  which  they  coil  a  turban  (^imma;  usually  white).  They  usu- 
ally carry  a  long  and  thick  stick  (ndbut),  made  of  ash  imported  from 
(Jaramania.    All  watchmen  carry  similar  sticks  as  a  badge  of  office. 

The  sole  wealth  of  Egypt  is  derived  from  its  agriculture,  and  to 
tbe  fellahin  alone  is  committed  the  important  task  of  tilling  the  soil. 
They  are,  indeed,  neither  fitted  nor  inclined  for  other  work,  a  circum- 
stance which  proves  how  completely  the  settled  character  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians  has  predominated  over  the  restless  Arabian  blood, 
which  has  been  largely  infused  into  the  native  population  ever  since 
the  valley  of  the  Nile  was  conquered  by  the  armies  of  Islam.  The 
ancient  Egyptian  racial  type  has  been  preserved  in  extraordinary 
purity  in  many  fellah  families,  especially  in  Upper  Egypt.  This  is 
particularly  evident  in  the  case  of  the  children  and  women,  whose 
features  are  not  concealed  and  distorted  by  veils  (which  the  ancient 
Egyptians  despised).  Even  among  the  Nubians  (p.  Ix),  between 
the  first  and  second  cataracts,  faces  occur  that  might  almost  lead  us 
to  think  that  some  of  the  pictures  of  the  period  of  the  old  Pharaohs 
had  come  to  life  and  stood  before  us  in  tlesh  and  blood.  In  Lower 
Egypt,  and  especially  in  the  Delta,  the  Semitic  type  has  sometimes 
prevailed  over  the  African  in  consequence  of  the  steady  stream  of 
Arab  immigration  that  has  now  been  flowing  formorethan  atliousand 
years.  The  modern  I'^gyptians,  moreover,  resemble  the  ancient  in 
character  and  in  the  lot  to  which  they  are  condemned.  In  ancient 
times  tlie  fellah,  pressed  into  the  service  of  the  priests  and  the 
jiriiices,  was  compelled  to  yield  up  to  them  the  fruits  of  his  toil, 
and  his  position  is  nearly  the  same  at  the  present  day,  save  that  the 
names  of  his  masters  are  changed,  and  he  has  obtained  some  relief 
owing  to  the  almost  entire  abolition  of  compulsory  work. 

In  early  life  the  Egyptian  peasant  is  remarkably  docile,  active, 
and  intelligent,  but  at  a  later  period  this  freshness  and  buoyancy  are 
crushed  out  of  him  by  care  and  poverty  and  his  never-ceasing  task 
of  filling  the  pitcher  of  the  Danaides.  He  ploughs  and  reaps,  toils 
and  amasses,  but  he  cannot  with  certainty  regard  his  crops  as  his 
own,  and  the  hardly  earned  ]iiastre  is  too  frequently  wrested  from 
him.  His  character,  therefore,  becomes  like  that  of  a  gifted  child, 
who  has  been  harshly  used  and  brought  up  to  domestic  slavery,  but 
at  length   perceives  that  he  has  been  treated  with  injustice,   and 


liv  II.    GEOGRAPHICAL  AJSD     b.  Modern  Egyptians ; 

whose  amiability  and  intelligence  are  then  superseded  bysullenness 
and  obstinacy.  Thus  down  to  a  few  years  ago,  as  in  the  time  of 
Ammianus  Marcellinns,  the  fellah  would  often  suffer  the  most  cruel 
blows  in  dogged  silence  rather  than  pay  the  taxes  demanded  of  him. 

In  his  own  fields  the  fellah  is  an  industrious  labourer,  and  his 
work  is  more  continuous  than  that  of  the  peasant  of  more  northern 
countries.  He  enjoys  no  period  of  repose  during  the  winter,  and  the 
whole  of  his  spare  time  is  occupied  in  drawing  water  for  the  irriga- 
tion of  the  land.  Notwithstanding  his  hard  lot,  however,  he  is  an 
entire  stranger  to  any  endeavour  to  better  his  condition  or  to  im- 
prove his  system  of  farming.  As  soon  as  he  has  accomplished  the 
most  nece.ssary  tasks  he  rests  and  smokes,  and  trusts  that  Allah  will 
do  the  remainder  of  his  work  for  him.  The  fellah  is  generally  of  a 
peaceful  disposition,  kindly  and  helpful  to  his  neighbour.  Foreigners 
can  see  his  best  side  only  by  observing  his  dealings  with  his  fellows; 
for  he  regards  strangers  as  merely  so  many  convenient  sources  of 
profit  (comp.  pp.  xxiv,  xxv). 

(2).  Copts  (kibt,  'ibt).  While  we  have  regarded  the  fellahin  as 
genuine  Egyptians  in  consequence  of  their  uninterrupted  occupation 
of  the  soil,  the  religion  of  the  Copts  aflords  us  an  additional  guarantee 
for  the  purity  of  their  descent.  The  Copts  are  undoubtedly  the  most 
direct  descendants  of  the  ancient  Egyptians,  there  being  no  ground 
for  the  assumption  that  their  ancestors  were  foreign  immigrants  who 
embraced  Christianity  after  the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the 
Mohammedans,  while  on  the  other  hand  the  obstinacy  with  which 
they  defended  their  monophysite  Christinuity  for  several  centuries 
against  the  inroads  of  the  creed  of  Byzantium  affords  another 
indication'of  their  Egyptian  character.  At  the  last  census  (1907)  the 
number  of  Copts  in  Egypt  was  706, SSS."!'  They  are  most  numerous 
in  the  towns  of  Upper  Egypt  (554,282 J,  around  the  ancient  Koptos, 
at  Nakadeh,  Luxor,  Esneh,  Dendera,  Girgeh,  Tahta,  and  particularly 
at  Assiiit  and  Akhmim. 

The  Oolitic  Patriarch  is  elected  from  their  own  number  by  the  monks 
of  the  live  chief  monasteries  of  Egypt.  These  are  the  monasteries  of  St. 
Anthony  andjSt.  Paul  in  the  eastern  desert  (p.  206),  two  in  the  Waii  Natrun 
(p.  32),  and  the  convent  of  El-Meliarrak  (p.  219),    near  Maufalut. 

;Most  of  the  Coptsthat  dwell  in  towns  are  engaged  in  the  more 
refined  handicrafts  (as  watchmakers,  goldsmiths,  jewellers,  em- 
broiderers, tailors,  weavers,  cabinet-makers,  turners,  etc.),  or  in 
trade,  or  as  clerks,  accountants,  and  notaries.  Their  physique  is 
accordingly  materially  different  from  that  of  the  fellahin  and  even 
from  that  of  Coptic  peasants.  They  are  generally  of  more  delicate 
frame,  with  small  hands  and  feet;  their  necks  are  longer  and  their 
skulls  are  higher  and  narrower  than  those  of  the  peasantry;  and, 


+  The  total'  number  of  Christians  in  Egypt  in  1S07  was  881,692,  iiiclud 
ing  76,953  Greek  Orthodox,  57,744  Roman  Catholira,  13,736  Protestants,  and 
27,937  Eastern  Christians. 


Copls.  POLITICAL  NOTKS.  Iv 

l;istly,  their  complexion  is  fairer.  These  diftereiices  are  sufficiently 
accounted  for  by  their  mode  of  life ;  for,  when  we  compare  those 
Copts  who  are  engaged  in  rustic  pursuits ,  or  the  Coptic  camel 
drivers  of  Upper  Egypt,  with  the  fellahin,  we  find  that  the  two 
races  are  not  distinguisha'ble  from  each  otiier.  'J'his  dualism  of 
type  in  bodily  structure,  common  to  all  civilized  lands  of  the  South, 
has  been  recognized  also  in  the  skeletons  of  the  ancient  mummies. 

Few  nations  in  the  East  embraced  the  Gospel  more  zealously 
than  the  dwellers  on  the  Nile.  Accustomed  as  they  had  long  been 
to  regard  life  as  a  pilgrimage  to  death,  as  a  school  of  preparation  for 
another  world,  and  weary  of  their  motley  and  confused  Pantheon 
of  divinities ,  whose  self-seeking  priesthood  designedly  disguised 
the  truth,  they  eagerly  welcomed  the  simple  doctrines  of  Christianity, 
which  appeared  so  well  adapted  to  their  condition  and  promised 
them  succour  and  redemption.  Like  Eutyches,  they  revered  the 
divine  nature  of  the  Saviour  only,  in  which  they  held  that  every 
human  clement  was  absorbed;  and  when  the  Council  of  Chaleedon 
in  451  sanctioned  the  doctrine  that  Christ  combined  a  human  with 
a  divine  nature,  the  Egyptians  with  their  characteristic  tenacity 
adhered  to  their  old  views,  and  formed  a  sect  termed  Eutychians,  or 
Monophy sites,  to  which  the  Copts  of  the  present  day,  and  also  the 
Abyssinians,  still  belong. 

The  name  of  the  Copts  is  au  ethnical  one,  being  simply  an  Arabic  cor- 
ruption of  the  Greek  name  of  Egyptians.  The  theory  is  now  exploded  that 
Ihey  derive  their  name  from  a  certain  itinerant  preacher  named  Jacobus, 
who  according  to  JUakrizi  was  termed  El-Eeradi'i,  or  'blanket-beaver\  from 
the  old  horse-cloth  worn  by  him  when  he  went  about  preaching.  This 
.lacobus  promulgated  the  monophysite  doctrine  of  Eutyches,  which  had 
found  its  most  zealous  supporter  in  Bioscurus,  a  bishop  of  Alexandria, 
who  was  declared  a  heretic  and  banished  after  the  Council  of  Chaleedon  ; 
and  his  disciples  were  sometimes  called  Jacobites.  If  this  name  had  ever 
been  abbreviated  to  Cobit  or  Cobt,  it  would  probably  have  occurred 
frequently  in  the  writings  of  Jlouophysites  ;  but  there  we  find  no  trace 
of  it.  It  is,  on  the  other  hand,  quite  intelligible  that  the  word  Copt, 
though  originally  synonymous  with  Egyptian,  should  gradually  have  come 
to  denote  a  particular  religious  sect;  for,  at  the  period  when  the  valley 
of  the  Nile  was  conquered  by  Amr,  the  native  Egyptians,  who  almost 
exclusively  held  the  monophysite  creed,  were  chiefly  distinguished  by 
their  religion  from  their  invaders,  who  brought  a  new  religious  system 
from  the  East. 

These  Egyptian  Christians  strenuously  opposed  the  resolutions  of 
the  Council  of  Chaleedon,  and  thousands  of  them  sacrificed  their 
lives  or  their  welfare  in  the  fierce  and  sanguinary  conflicts  of  the 
Hth  century,  the  causes  of  which  were  imperfectly  understood  by 
the  great  majority  of  the  belligerents.  The  subtle  dogmatic  dif- 
ferences which  gave  rise  to  these  wars  aroused  such  hatred  among 
these  professors  of  the  religion  of  love,  that  the  defeated  Mouophy- 
sites  readily  welcomed  the  invading  armies  of  Islam,  or  perhaps 
even  invited  them  to  their  country. 

After  the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  the  Arabs  (p.  44 )  the  Copts  were 
at  first  treated  with  lenity,    and  were  even  appointed  to  the  highest 


M  II.  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     b.  Modem  Egyptians: 

government  oMces;  but  tliey  were  soon  doomed  to  suffer  persecutions 
and  privations  of  every  description.  These  persecutions  were  mainly 
due  to  their  unbounded  arrogance  and  their  perpetual  conspiracies 
against  their  new  masters,  and  their  Mohammedan  contemporaries 
even  attributed  to  them  the  disastrous  conflagrations  from  j. which 
the  new  capital  of  the  country  so  frequently  suffered.  Their  hopes 
were  doomed  to  bitter  disappointment,  and  their  national  pride  to 
utter  humiliation.  Their  conquerors  succeeded  in  maintaining  their 
position,  and  though  apparently  at  first  inclined  to  moderation,  were 
at  length  driven  by  the  conduct  and  the  previous  example  of  the 
Copts  themselves  to  persecute  and  oppress  them  to  the  uttermost. 

In  spite,  however,  of  all  these  disasters  a  numerous  community 
of  Copts  has  always  existed  in  Egypt,  a  fact  which  is  mainly  to  be 
accounted  for  by  the  remarkable  tenacity  and  constancy  of  the 
Egyptian  character.  Owing,  however,  to  the  continual  oppression 
and  contempt  to  which  they  have  been  subjected,  they  have  de- 
generated in  every  respect,  while  their  character  has  been  correspond- 
ingly altered.  Their  divine  worship  will  strike  the  traveller  as 
strange,  and  anything  but  edifying  or  elevating  (comp.  p.  107). 
It  is  true  that  the  Copt  is  a  regular  attendant  at  church  ('keniseh'), 
but  his  conduct  while  there  and  the  amount  of  benefit  he  receives 
are  somewhat  questionable.  In  the  service  the  Coptic  language,  i.e. 
the  language  of  the  Egyptians  of  the  3rd  cent.  A.D.,  is  used  for  pray- 
ing and  chanting.  But  as  the  majority  even  of  the  priests  themselves, 
though  able  to  read  this  ancient  speech,  do  not  understand  it,  the 
Arabic  translation  of  the  prayers  is  given  at  the  same  time,  and 
the  sermon  is  delivered  in  Arabic.  Since  the  6th  cent,  the  doc- 
trine of  the  Jacobites  has  been  in  a  state  of  deathlike  lethargy  which 
has  made  even  the  slightest  attempt  at  further  development  im- 
possible. In  no  other  religious  community  is  fasting  so  common  as 
among  the  Christians  of  Egypt  and  Abyssinia.  They  still  found  their 
creed  upon  Old  Testament  institutions,  and  so  show  pretty  clearly 
that  had  ChristiaTiity  been  confined  to  the  East  it  would  never  have 
become  the  chief  religion  of  the  world.  The  Coptic  church  has  not 
even  training-colleges  for  its  ministers. 

The  Copts  are  no  longer  distinguished  from  the  Arabs  by  their 
dress.  Only  the  priests  now  wear  the  dark  blue  or  black  turban  and 
the  dark-coloured  clothes,  a  costume  that  was  originally  prescribed 
by  their  oppressors.  A  practised  eye  will  frequently  detect  among 
them  the  ancient  Egyptian  cast  of  features.  Towards  strangers  the  Copt 
is  externally  obliging,  and  when  anxious  to  secure  their  favour  he  not 
unfrequently  appeals  to  his  Christian  creed  as  a  bond  of  union.  Many 
Copts  have  recently  been  converted  to  Protestantism  by  American  mis- 
sionaries, particularly  in  Upper  Egypt,  chiefly  through  the  foundation 
of  good  schools  and  the  distribution  of  cheap  Arabic  Bibles.  Even  the 
ortliodox  Copts  have  a  great  reverence  for  the  sacred  volume,  and  it 
is  not  uncommon  to  meet  with  members  of  their  sect  who  know  the 


HeduiuK  POLITICAL   NOTES.  Ivii 

whole  of  tlie  Gospels  by  heart.  The  liomau  propaganda,  which  was 
begun  by  Franciscans  at  the  end  of  the  i7th  and  beginning  of  the 
18th  cent.,  has  been  less  successful  among  the  Copts.  There  are, 
however,  a  few  small  Roman  Catholic  communities  in  Upper  Egypt 
(atGirgeh,  Akhmim,  and  Nakadeh),  forming  the  'Church  of  the 
Catholic  Copts',  whose  patriarch,  Cyrillos  II.,  consecrated  in  189U, 
is  a  native  Copt.  The  present  patriarch  of  the  old  Copts,  at  Cairo, 
is  likewise  named  Cyrillos. 

(3).  Bbduins.  Bedu  (sing,  hcdawi)  is  the  name  applied  to  the 
nomadic  Arabs,  and  'Arab  (sing.  'Arahi)  to  those  who  immigrated 
at  a  later  period  and  settled  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  They 
both  differ  materially  from  the  dwellers  in  towns  and  from  the 
I'ellahin.  The  subdivisions  of  the  Beduiu  tribes  are  called  KabUch. 
'J'hough  differing  greatly  in  origin  and  language,  the  wandering  tribes 
of  Egypt  all  profess  Mohammedanism.  Again,  while  some  of  them 
have  immigrated  from  Arabia  or  Syria,  partly  in  very  ancient  and 
partly  in  modern  times,  and  while  others  are  supposed  to  be  the 
aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  territories  claimed  by  them  (as  the 
Berbers  of  N.  Africa  and  the  Ethiopians  and  Blemmyes  of  Nubia), 
or  former  dwellers  on  the  Nile  expelled  from  their  homes  by  foreign 
invaders,  they  all  differ  greatly  from  the  settled  Egyptian  population; 
and  this  contrast  is  accounted  for  by  the  radical  difference  between 
the  influences  of  the  desert  and  those  of  the  Nile  valley. 

According  to  the  census  of  1907  there  were  635, 012  Beduins 
in  Egypt,  of  whom  537,631  were  settled  in  towns  and  villages. 

The  Beduins  may  be  divided  into  two  leading  groups  :  (1)  Beduins 
in  the  narrower  sense,  i.e.  Arabic-speaking  tribes,  most  of  whom 
have  probably  immigrated  from  Arabia  or  Syria,  and  who  occupy 
the  deserts  adjoining  Central  and  Northern  Egypt  besides  to  a  con- 
siderable extent  settling  in  the  Nile  valley;  (2)  Bega,  who  range 
over  the  regions  of  Upper  Egypt  and  Nubia  situated  between  the 
Nile  and  the  lied  Sea,  and  extending  to  the  frontiers  of  the  Abyssi- 
nian mountains.  These  are  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  Blem- 
myes (p.  386  ;  their  territory  being  known  as  'Edbai'J.  The  two  prin- 
cipal races  of  the  second  group,  with  whom  alone  we  have  to  deal 
as  inhabitants  of  Egypt,  are  the  Bisharhi  and  the  'Ababdeh.  They 
are  widely  scattered  in  the  valleys  of  the  desert  (pp.  372  et  seq.), 
between  the  tropics  and  the  latitude  of  Keneh  and  Koseir,  and  lead 
a  poverty-stricken  life  with  their  very  scanty  stock  of  camels  and 
goats.  Though  closely  resembling  the  other  Bega  tribes  in  appear- 
ance, the  'Ababdeh  (sing.  'Abadi,  probably  the  Gebadaei  of  Pliny) 
possess  an  original  language  of  their  own  ( 'to-bedyawiyeh'),  which, 
however,  they  have  long  since  exchanged  for  bad  Arabic.  They 
have  adopted  also  tlie  costume  of  the  fellahin,  while  the  Bisharin 
tend  their  large  flocks  of  sheep  and  herds  of  camels  in  a  half-naked 
coiiilition,  girded  with  a  leathern  apron  and  wrapped  in  a  kind  of  cot- 
ton shawl  (meldya).  All  these  'Ethiopians'  are  remarkable  for  their 


Iviii  11.   GP:0GRAI'H1CAL  AND     h.  Modern  Et/yptians : 

fine  and  almost  Caucasian  cast  uf  features,  their  very  dark,  bronze- 
coloured  complexion,  and  their  luxuriant  growth  of  hair,  which  they 
wear  loose  or  hanging  down  in  numberless  plaits.  Their  figures  are 
beautifully  symmetrical,  and  more  or  less  slender  in  accordance  with 
their  means  of  subsistence,  and  their  limbs  are  gracefully  formed. 
In  other  respects  they  resemlile  all  the  other  children  of  the  desert, 
as  in  the  purity  of  their  complexion,  the  peculiar  thinness  of  their 
necks,  and  the  premature  wrinkling  of  the  skin  of  their  faces.  Com- 
pared witli  their  bold  and  quarrelsome  neighbours  the  lUsharin,  the 
'Ababdeh  are  generally  gentle  anil  inofi'cnsive. 

Besides  the  Bcga  there  arc  numerous  Beduins  who  inhabit  the 
steppes  and  deserts  belonging  to  the  region  of  the  Nile,  but  beyond 
the  limits  of  Egypt,  and  range  as  far  as  the  confines  of  the  heathen 
negro-races  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile,  nearly  to  9°  N.  latitude ; 
but  with  these  we  have  not  at  present  to  deal.  As  regards  the 
Beduins  proper  of  the  N.,  their  common  home,  the  desert,  seems 
to  have  exerted  a  unifying  effect  upon  races  that  were  originally 
different,  and  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  each  have  gradually 
disappeared  before  the  uniform  environment  of  all. 

There  are  three  important  Beduin  tribes  in  the  peninsula  of 
Mount  Sinai :  tlie  Terdbiyin;  the  Tiyaha,  who  occupy  the  heart  of 
the  peninsula,  between  Suez  and  'Akaba;  and  the  Sawarkeh  or  12- 
'Arayish,  to  tlie  north  of  the  latter.  In  Upper  Egypt,  besides  the 
'Ababdeh,  the  most  important  tribes  who  occupy  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  Nile  are  the  Beni  Wasel  and  the  Atwani,  who,  however,  have  now 
settled  on  both  banks  of  the  Thcban  Nile  valley  and  are  gradually 
blending  with  the  fellahin,  and  the  Ma'dzeh^  who  dwell  in  groups 
among  the  limestone  mountains  between  Suez  and  Keneh,  where 
there  are  good  pastures  at  places.  Most  of  the  Arabian  Beduins,  on 
the  other  hand,  wlio  belong  to  Egypt,  confine  themselves  to  tlie 
westernbank  of  the  Nile.  They  occupy  tlie  whole  of  this  side  of  the 
river  from  the  Faiyum  as  far  as  Abydos  near  Girgeh,  and  it  is  mainly 
with  their  aid  that  communication  is  maintained  with  the  western 
oases,  peopled  by  a  totally  different  race,  who  till  tlie  ground  and 
possess  no  camels,  being  probably  allied  to  the  Berbers  of  Northern 
Africa  (one  of  the  numerous  liibyan  tribes  mentioned  in  ancient 
inscriptions). 

The  Beduins  of  the  North,  and  especially  the  tribe  of  the  Vlad 
'All,  have  inherited  with  comparative  purity  the  fiery  blood  of  the 
desert-tribes,  M'ho  achieved  such  marvellous  exploits  under  the 
banner  of  the  prophet,  but  the  traveller  will  rarely  come  in  contact 
with  them  unless  he  undertakes  a  journey  across  the  desert.  The 
Beduins  who  assist  travellers  in  the  ascent  of  the  pyramids  belong 
to  the  Nagama  tribe.  Genuine  Beduins  are  to  be  found  nowhere 
except  in  their  desert  home,  where  to  a  great  extent  they  still  retain 
the  spirit  of  independence,  the  courage,  and  the  restlessness  of  their 
ancestors.    As  in   the  time  of  Herodotus,  the  tent  of  the  Beduin  is 


Antb  Town-Dwellers.     POLITICAL  NOTES.  lix 

still  his  home.  Where  it  is  pitched  is  a  matter  of  iudifference  to 
him,  if  only  the  pegs  which  secure  it  be  firmly  driven  into  the  earth, 
if  it  shelter  his  wife  and  child  from  the  burning  sunshine  and  the 
chilly  night-air,  and  if  pasturage-ground  and  a  spring  be  within 
reach.  At  Ramleli  on  the  coast,  near  Alexandria,  the  traveller  may 
see  numerous  Beduin  families  of  the  poorest  class  encamped  in 
their  tents,  where  they  live  in  the  most  frugal  possible  manner,  wilji 
a  few  miserable  goats  and  the  fowls  which  subsist  on  the  rubbish  in 
their  neighbourhood.  Though  professors  of  Islam,  the  Beduins  of 
Egypt  are  considerably  less  strict  in  their  observances  than  the  fel- 
lahin  of  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  who  are  themselves  sufllciently  lax, 
and  above  all  they  sadly  neglect  the  religious  duty  of  cleanliness. 
They  do  not  observe  the  practice  of  praying  five  times  a  day,  and 
they  are  as  a  rule  but  slightly  acquainted  with  the  Koran.  Kelios 
of  their  old  star-worship  can  still  be  traced  among  their  customs. 

The  traveller  will  occasionally  observe  Beduins  in  the  streets  and 
in  the  bazaars  of  the  armourers  and  leather-merchants,  and  will  be 
struck  with  the  proud  and  manly  bearing  of  these  bronzed  children 
of  the  desert,  whose  sharp,  bearded  features  and  steady  gaze  betoken 
firmness  and  resolution.  In  Egypt  the  traveller  need  not  fear  their 
predatory  propensities. 

(4).  Akab  Dwellers  in  Towns.  Those  Arabs  witli  whom  the 
traveller  usually  comes  in  contact  in  towns  are  shopkeepers,  officials, 
servants,  coachmen,  and  donkey-attendants.  These  are  generally 
of  a  much  more  mixed  origin  than  the  fellahin.  It  thus  happens 
that  the  citizens  of  the  Egyptian  towns  consist  of  persons  of  every 
complexion  from  dark-brown  to  white,  with  the  features  of  the 
worshippers  of  Osiris  or  the  sharp  profile  of  the  Beduins,  and  witli 
the  slender  figure  of  the  fellah  or  the  corpulence  of  the  Turk. 
Among  the  lower  classes  intermarriage  with  negro-women  has  some- 
times darkened  the  complexion  and  thickened  the  features  of  their 
offspring;  while  the  higher  ranks,  including  many  descendants  of 
white  slaves  or  Turkish  mothers,  more  nearly  resemble  the  European 
type.  As  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  could  not  be  so  much  op- 
pressed by  their  rulers  as  tl\e  peasantry,  we  find  that  they  exhibit 
a  more  independent  spirit,  greater  enterprise,  and  a  more  cheerful 
disposition  than  the  fellahin.  At  the  same  time  they  are  not  free 
from  the  dreamy  character  peculiar  to  orientals,  nor  from  a  tinge  of 
the  apathy  of  fatalism;  and  their  indolence  contrasts  strongly  with 
the  industry  of  their  European  rivals  in  political,  scientific,  artistic, 
and  all  business  ]iursuits.  Of  late  years,  however,  they  have  begun 
to  occu]>y  themselves  with  scientific  studies  and  to  produce  a  con- 
siderable number  of  higher  oflicials,  barristers,  doctors,  architects, 
ensincers,  etc.  The  townspeople  profess  Islam ,  but,  in  their 
youth  particularly,  they  are  becoming  more  and  more  lax  in  their 
obedience  to  the  Koran.  Thus  tlic  custom  of  praying  in  jmblic,  out- 
side the  house-doors  and  shops,  is  gradually  falling  into  disuse.  Like- 


Ix  II.   GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     b.  Modem  Egyptians: 

wise  the  European  dress  is  superseding  the  oriental,  though  the 
latter  is  far  more  picturesque  and  better  suited  to  the  climate.  On 
the  whole,  however,  they  are  bigoted  Mohammedans,  and  share 
the  contempt  with  which  the  fellahiu  regard  all  other  religions. 
Their  daily  intercourse  with  unbelievers  and  their  dread^jof  [the 
power  of  the  Christian  nations  tend,  however,  to  keep  their  fana- 
ticism, which  otherwise  would  be  unbounded,  in  check,  and  has  even 
induced  them  sometimes  to  admit  strangers  to  witness  the  sacred 
ceremonies  in  their  mosques. 

(5).  Nubians.  The  name  Bardbra  (sing.  Berbcrl)  is  applied  to 
tlie  Nubian  inhabitants  of  the  Nile  valley  between  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Assuan  and  the  Fourth  Cataract.  The  Egyptians  and  Nubians 
are  radically  different,  and  the  dislike  between  the  two  races  is 
carried  to  such  an  extent  that  Nubians,  even  in  Egypt,  never  marry 
Egyptian  wives.  The  Nubians  are  inferior  to  the  Egyptians  in 
industry  and  energy,  especially  in  tilling  the  soil,  and  in  pliysical 
(and  perhaps  also  in  intellectual)  vigour  j  and  they  are  more  super- 
stitious as  is  indicated  by  the  numerous  amulets  they  wear  round 
their  necks  and  arms.  They  are,  however,  superior  to  the  Egyptians 
in  cleanliness,  honesty,  and  subordination,  and  possess  a  more  highly 
developed  sense  of  honour.  The  traveller  must  not  expect  to  find 
them  very  sincerely  attached  or  grateful,  any  more  than  the  native 
Egyptians,  but  as  servants  they  are  certainly  preferable.  The  Nubian 
language  belongs  to  a  special  group  of  the  African  tongues;  and 
I)r.  Brugsch  was  of  opinion  that  it  may  afford  a  clue  to  the  inter- 
pretation of  the  still  undeciphered  Meroi tic  inscriptions  of  the  Nubian 
part  of  the  Nile  valley.  It  is  divided  into  three  dialects:  1.  Kenuz, 
spoken  between  the  First  Cataract  and  Es-Sebu'a;  'J.  El-Mahasi, 
from  Korosko  to  Hannek  (at  the  third  cataract) ;  3.  Dongola,  pre- 
valent in  the  province  of  Dongola  from  Hannek  to  Gebel  Deiga 
(near  Korti)  and  resembling  the  Kenuz  dialect. 

Those  Nubians  who  do  not  learnArabicgrammatically  neverspeak 
it  thoroughly  well ;  but  itis  generally,  though  imperfectly,  understood 
in  Nubia.  The  traveller  must  therefore  not  expect  to  learn  good  Arabic 
from  his  Nubian  servants.  In  their  native  country  the  Nubians  till 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  but  their  land  is  of  very  limited  extent  and 
poorly  cultivated;  and  as  their  harvests  are  scanty  they  are  rarely  able 
to  support  large  families.  They  accordingly  often  emigrate  at  an  early 
age  to  the  richer  lands  of  Egypt,  chiefly  to  the  large  towns,  in  quest  of 
employment.  When  the  Nubian  has  succeeded  in  amassing  a  mod- 
erate fortune,  he  returns  to  settle  in  his  native  country,  of  which 
throughout  his  whole  career  he  never  entirely  loses  sight.  They  are 
most  commonly  employed  as  doorkeepers  ('6auu'a6  J,  as  house-servants 
(khaddam),  as  grooms  and  runners  (sdis),  for  which  their  swiftness 
renders  them  unrivalled,  as  coachmen  f'artupZj,  and  as  cooks C/aifca&ft^. 
Each  of  these  five  classes  is  admirably  organized  as  a  kind  of  guilda 
w  ith  a  sheikh  of  its  own,  who  levies  a  tax  from  each  member,  and 


Levantines.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  Ix 

guarantees  the  cliaracter  and  abilities  of  members  when  hired.  Thefts 
are  very  rarely  committed  by  the  Nubians,  but  in  cases  of  the  kind  the 
sheikh  compels  the  whole  of  his  subjects  to  contribute  to  repair  the 
loss,  and  cases  have  been  known  in  which  several  hundred  pounds 
have  been  recovered  in  this  way.  The  result  is  that  there  is  a 
strict  mutual  system  of  supervision,  and  suspected  characters  are 
unceremoniously  excluded  from  the  fraternity.  Nubian  women  are 
seldom  seen  in  Egypt. 

(Gi\  Sudan  Nkgeoes.  Like  the  Nubians,  most  of  the  negroes  in 
Egypt  are  professors  of-  Islam,  to  the  easily  intelligible  doctrines 
of  which  they  readily  and  zealously  attach  themselves.  Most  of  the 
older  negroes  and  negresses  with  whom  the  traveller  meets  have 
originally  been  brought  to  Egypt  as  slaves,  and  belong  to  natives, 
by  whom  they  arc  treated  more  like  members  of  the  family  than 
like  servants.  The  eunuchs,  who  also  belong  almost  exclusively  to 
the  negro  races,  very  seldom  avail  themselves  of  any  opportunity  of 
regaining  their  liberty,  as  their  emancipation  would  Jiecessarily  ter- 
minate the  life  of  ease  and  luxury  in  which  they  delight.  —  The 
numerous  negroes  who  voluntarily  settle  in  Egypt  form  the  dregs  of 
the  people  aiid  are  employed  in  the  most  menial  offices. 

Most  of  the  negro- races  of  Central  Africa  to  the  N.  of  the 
equator  are  represented  at  Cairo,  particularly  in  the  rank  and  tile  of 
the  negro  regiments.  In  1907  there  were  65,162  natives  of  the 
S&dan  settled  in  Egypt. 

(7).  TuEKs.  Although  the  dynasty  of  the  viceroys  of  Egypt  is 
of  Turkish  origin  (see  p.  cxx),  a  comparatively  small  section  of  the 
community  belongs  to  that  nation.  According  to  the  census  of  1907 
there  were  '27,591  genuine  Turks  in  Egypt,  besides  42,134  Turkish 
subjects  from  other  parts  of  the  Ottoman  empire  (Syria,  Arabia, 
Armenia).  The  Turks  of  Egypt  are  chiefly  to  be  found  in  the  towns, 
where  most  of  them  are  government-officials,  soldiers,  and  merchants. 
The  Turkish  language  is  very  little  understood  in  Egypt. 

(S).  Lkvantinks,  Syrians,  etc.  A  link  between  the  various 
classes  of  dwellers  in  Egypt  and  the  visitors  to  the  banks  of  the 
Nile  is  formed  by  the  members  of  the  various  Mediterranean  races, 
especially  the  Christian  Syrians,  known  when  of  partly  European 
origin  as  Levantines,  who  have  been  settled  here  for  several  genera- 
tions, and  form  no  inconsiderable  element  in  the  population  of  the 
larger  towns.  Most  of  them  profess  the  Latin  form  of  Christianity, 
and  Arabic  has  now  become  their  mother  tongue,  although  they 
speak  also  French,  Italian,  or  English.  They  are  good  men  of 
business,  and  are  often  employed  as  shopmen  and  clerks.  Their 
services  have  also  become  indispensable  at  the  consulates  and  in 
several  of  the  government-offices.  A  large  proportion  of  them  arc 
wealthy.  The  Egyptian  press  is  very  largely  in  the  hands  of  Syrian  " 
Levantines,  a  great  many  of  whom  are  lawyers,  physicians,  and 
chemists  also. 


Ixii  11.  GKOGRAPHICAL  AND     b.  Modern  KyyptiaHs: 

(Q).  AiiMiiNiANs  AND  Jews.  This  section  of  the  com m unity  is 
somewhat  lesa  numerous  than  the  last.  The  Armenians  generally 
possess  excellent  abilities  and  a  singular  aptitude  for  learning  both 
oriental  and  European  languages,  which  they  often  acquire  with 
great  grammatical  accuracy.  They  often  hold  high  positions  in  the 
service  of  government,  and  many  of  them  are  wealthy  goldsmiths 
and  jewellers. 

The  Jews  (38,635  in  1907)  are  met  with  almost  exclusively  in 
Cairo  and  Alexandria,  and  can  hardly  be  reckoned  as  among  the 
natives  of  the  country.  Most  of  them  are  from  Palestine,  though  of 
Spanish  origin,  but  many  have  recently  immigrated  from  Roumania. 
The  latter  are  popularly  called  'Shlekhti',  in  reference  to  the  bar- 
barous German  idiom  tliey  speak.  Most  of  the  money-changers  in  the 
streets  (sarrdf),  and  many  of  the  wealthiest  merchants  of  Egypt,  are 
Jews,  and  notwithstandiug  tlic  popular  prejudice  entertained  against 
them,  they  now  form  one  of  the  most  highly  respected  sections  of 
the  community. 

(10).  Europeans.  The  number  of  European  residents  and 
visitors  in  Egypt  was  147,220  in  1907,  inclusive  of  the  British  army 
of  occupation.  The  Greelvs  arc  most  numerously  represented,  then 
the  Italians,  British  (including  Indians  and  Maltese),  French,  Aus- 
trians  (including  many  Dalmatians),  Russians,  and  Germans.  Be- 
sides these  nationalities,  there  are  also  a  few  representatives  of 
America,  Spain,  Switzerland,  Belgium,  Holland,  Scandinavia,  and 
other  countries. — The  Greeks  of  all  classes  are  generally  traders.  They 
constitute  almost  entirely  the  aristocracy  of  Alexandria,  and,  at  the 
other  end  of  the  scale,  nearly  all  the  small  inn-keepers  and  victual- 
dealers  (bahkdl)  in  other  towns  are  Greeks.  The  cigarette-industry 
also  is  almost  exclusively  in  the  hands  of  Greeks.  They  are  the 
proprietors  of  the  small  steam-mills  that  abound  in  the  villages,  and 
of  the  numerous  small  banks  which  lend  money  on  good  security, 
both  to  the  peasantry  and  the  government-officials,  at  a  rate  of 
interest  sometimes  amounting  to  (5  per  cent  monthly,  the  maximum 
permitted  by  law.  The  Greeks  are  the  only  Europeans  who  have 
established  themselves  permanently  as  merchants  beyond  the  confines 
of  Egypt  proper.  Almost  the  entire  trade  with  the  Egyptian  Sudan  is 
now  in  their  hands.  Of  recent  years  many  Greeks  have  been  active 
as  physicians,  lawyers,  engineers,  architects,  and  especially  land- 
owners, but  they  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence  from  the  govern- 
ment-service. The  Greeks  have  also  the  unenviable  notoriety  of 
committing  numerous  murders,  thefts,  and  other  crimes,  but  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind  that  they  are  by  far  the  most  numerous  section  of 
the  European  community  (62,978  in  1907),  and  that  most  of  them 
belong  to  the  lowest  class  of  immigrants.  The  commercial  superior- 
ity of  the  Greeks  to  the  Orientals  is  nowhere  so  strikingly  mani- 
fested as  in  Egypt,  where  it  affords  a  modern  reflex  of  their  ancient 
success  in  colonization. 


Phtrorenns.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  Ixiii 

The  Italian  residents,  34,926  in  number,  consist  cliielly  of  tr.-id- 
ers  of  a  humlilc  class,  but  include  also  many  mcrcliants,  advocates, 
and  scholars.  Of  I'rencli  nationality  (^14,591)  arc  all  the  artisans  of 
the  higher  class,  who  are  generally  noted  for  their  skill,  trust- 
worthiness, and  sobriety.  Most  of  the  better  shops  are  kept  by 
Frenchmen,  and  the  chief  European  officials  of  the  government, 
including  several  architects  and  engineers,  were  until  recently 
French.  The  British  settlers  numbered  6118  in  1882  and  in  1907 
20,653,  inclusive  of  the  troops.  Until  recently  their  si)ecialties 
were  the  manufacture  of  machinery  and  the  construction  of  railways 
and  harbours;  but  of  late  they  have  also  almost  monopolized  the 
chief  posts  in  those  branches  of  the  administration  (army,  post  and 
telegriipli  office,  railways,  custom-liousel  that  have  been  remodelled 
after  the  British  pattern.  Apart  from  the  troojis,  a  large  majority 
of  the  residents  wiio  enjoy  the  protection  of  the  British  consTilate 
are  Maltese  and  natives  of  India  (in  19UT ,  6292  from  Britisli 
(lolonies).  To  the  Maltese  apply  even  more  forcibly  most  of  the 
remarks  already  made  regarding  the  (i reeks.  It  has  been  ascertained 
that  the  Maltese  settlers  Iti  foreign  countries  are  more  numerous 
than  those  resident  in  tlieir  two  small  native  islands,  and  of  these 
a  considerable  proportion  belongs  to  Egypt.  At  home,  under  the 
discipline  of  British  institutions,  they  form  a  pattern  little  nation 
of  their  own,  but  in  Egypt,  where  they  are  freed  from  the  restraint 
of  these  influences,  they  are  very  apt  to  degenerate  and  to  swell 
unduly  the  ranks  of  the  criminal  class.  Many  of  the  Maltese,  how- 
ever, are  enterprising  tradesmen  and  industrious  artisans,  such  as 
shoemakers  and  joiners.  To  the  Austrian  (7704)  and  German  ( 1847 ) 
community  belong  a  number  of  merchants  of  the  best  class,  many 
physicians  and  teachers,  inn-keepers,  musicians,  and  lastly  humble 
hainlicraftsmen.  —  In  1907  there  wero  521  Americans  in  Egypt. 

With  regard  to  the  capability  of  Europeans  of  becoming  ac- 
climatized in  Egypt  there  are  a  number  of  widely  divergent  opinions. 
Much,  of  course,  must  depend  on  the  nature  of  the  climate  of  their 
own  respective  countries.  It  has  been  asserted  that  European 
families  settled  in  Egypt  die  out  in  the  second  or  third  generation, 
but  of  this  there  is  no  sufficient  proof,  as  the  European  community 
is  of  very  recent  origin,  and  many  examples  to  the  contrary  might 
be  cited.  Moreover  as  the  Europeans  in  Egypt  dwell  exclusively  in 
the  large  cities,  they  do  not  afford  very  conclusive  evidence  on  the 
general  question  ;  for  city  life,  as  opposed  to  country  life,  is  even 
less  propitious  to  liealth  and  vigour  in  warm  countries  than  it  is  in 
northern  climes.  Thus  the  Mamelukes  have  left  no  descendants  in 
Egypt.  The  climate  of  Egypt  (comp,  p.  Ixxvii)  is  less  enervating 
than  that  of  most  other  hot  countries,  an  advantage  attributed  to 
the  dryness  of  the  air. 


Ixiv  II.  GEOGRAPHICAT.  AND         c.  The  Nile. 


c.  The  Nile. 

Bff  Captain  H.  G.  Lyons. 

From  tlicj  sources  of  the  Nyavaronyo,  a  tributary  of  the  Kagera 
River,  to  the  sea  the  Kagera-Nile  is  the  second  longest  continuous 
waterway  in  the  world  (4037  M.),  being  surpassed  only  by  the 
Mississippi-Missouri,  wliich  is  probably  about  100  M.  longer.  From 
the  Ripon  Falls  at  Lake  Victoria  to  the  sea  the  distance  is  3473  M., 
so  that  the  Nile  proper  is  the  longest  single  river  in  the  world,  tlie 
Yang-tse-kiang  i>robably  coming  next. 

Rising  to  the  N.E.  of  Lake  Tanganyika,  the  waters  of  the  Nya- 
varongo-Kagera  flow  into  the  great  Victoria  Lake,  on  the  N.  shore 
of  which,  at  the  Ripon  Falls,  begins  the  true  Nile.  After  a  course 
of  242  M.  this  enters  the  Albert  Lake.  From  this  point,  under  the 
name  of  the  Bahr  el-Gehel,  it  traverses  a  rocky  channel  as  far  as 
Gondokoro,  and  it  then  flows  for  470  M.  through  the  swamps  Avhich 
till  the  valley  and  provide  the  reeds  and  grasses  of  the  'sudd',  or  mass 
of  vegetation  wliich  from  time  to  time  blocks  the  channel  (p.  435). 
Jn  latitude  9°  30'  N.  the  main  stream  receives  two  tributaries,  the 
Bahr  el-GhaiCd  and  the  Bahr  ez-Zarafeh,  and  a  little  farther  on  it  is 
joined  by  the  important  Sobat  River,  to  which  the  annual  flood  of 
the  White  Nile  is  due.  From  this  point  to  Khartum  the  Bahr  el- 
Abyad  or  'White  Nile',  as  it  is  here  called,  flows  through  a  shallow 
valley  of  considerable  width,  until  it  is  joined  by  the  Bahr  el-Azrak, 
i.e.  the  'blue',  'dark',  or  'turbid'  Nile,  so  called  in  contradistinc- 
tion to  the  White  Nile,  the  'clear'  water  of  which  has  been  filtered 
in  its  passage  through  the  marshes  of  the  Bahr  el-Gebel  or  has  de- 
posited its  silt  in  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Sobat.  Between  Khartum 
and  the  Mediterranean,  a  distance  of  1900  M.,  the  Nile  receives  no 
further  addition  to  its  supply  except  from  the  river  Atbara,  while 
it  is  being  continually  diminished  by  evaporation,  by  percolation  into 
the  sandstone  of  the  desert  through  which  it  flows,  and  by  the  irri- 
gation of  its  flood-plains  in  Egypt.  —  Between  Wadi  Haifa  and 
Assuan  the  average  breadth  of  the  Nile  is  about  550  yds.,  to  the  N. 
of  Assuan  it  varies  from  550  to  980  yds. 

As  practically  no  rain  falls  within  its  limits,  Egypt  would  cease 
to  exist  as  a  fertile  country  and  would  become  a  desert  valley, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Sahara,  were  it  not  for  its  constant  supply  of 
water  from  the  Nile.  Thus  the  all-important  annual  Inundation  of 
th  at  river  merits  special  notice  as  the  great  event  of  the  Egyptian  year. 

The  heavy  rains  which  fall  from  June  to  September  on  the  Abys- 
sinian tableland  cause  the  Blue  Nile  and  the  Atbara  to  rise  rapidly, 
and  their  waters  carry  down  in  suspension  vast  quantities  of  the 
mud  which  has  during  many  centuries  formed  the  fertile  valley  and 
delta  of  Egypt,  but  of  which  very  little  is  deposited  now,  however, 
owing  to  the  perennial  irrigation  (comp.  p.  Ixxi).  The  volume  of 
the  Blue  Nile  flood,  which  may  reach  and  even  exceed  360,000  cubic 


c.  The  Nile.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  Ixv 

feet  per  second,  holds  back  the  waters  of  the  White  Nile  above 
the  junction  of  the  two  streams,  so  that  in  August  and  September 
the  waters  of  the  Bahr  el-Gebel  and  the  Sobat  are  penned  up  in 
the  White  Nile  valley  and  contribute  only  a  very  small  share  to 
the  inundation  of  the  Nile  proper.  The  rains  of  Abyssinia  may 
therefore  be  regarded  as  practically  regulating  tlie  height  of  the 
inundation  of  the  Nile,  and  it  is  their  variations  which  occasion 
the  fluctuation  from  year  to  year.  The  region  of  the  equatorial 
lakes  has  no  effect  whatever  on  the  flood. 

The  Nile  begins  to  rise  at  Khartum  about  the  middle  of  May, 
and  at  Assuan  by  the  beginning  of  June,  reaching  its  maximum 
height  at  both  places  about  the  end  of  the  first  week  in  September. 
The  mean  difference  between  the  highest  and  lowest  stages  of  the 
river  is  21  ft.  at  Khartum,  20  ft.  at  Wadi  Haifa,  23  ft.  at  Assuan, 
22  ft.  at  Assiut,  22  ft.  at  Minyeh,  and  16  ft.  "at  Cairo.  After  the  flood 
has  reached  its  maximum  height  the  Blue  Nile  falls  rapidly,  but  the 
water  of  the  White  Nile,  which  is  now  liberated,  prevents  too  rapid 
a  fall  of  the  river  below  Khartiim.  By  January  the  Blue  Nile  sup- 
ply has  diminished  to  a  small  amount,  while  that  of  the  White  Nile 
is  several  times  as  great,  and  this  state  of  affairs  continues  until 
June,  when  the  Blue  Nile  again  rises.  Thus,  for  these  five  months 
the  mainstay  of  the  Nile  supply  is  the  constant  quantity  furnished 
by  the  White  Nile,  amounting  to  some  14,000  cubic  ft.  per  second, 
supplemented  by  a  quantity  from  the  Sobat  River  and  the  Blue 
Nile,  which  varies  from  year  to  year  according  to  the  amount  of  the 
summer  and  autumn  rains  of  Abyssinia  in  the  preceding  year. 

From  time  immemorial  the  Nile  flooded  its  valley  annually. 
Crops  were  sown  on  the  mud  flats  left  by  the  water  as  it  subsided 
and,  at  a  very  early  period,  a  system  of  irrigation  was  developed  by 
which  the  flood-water,  with  its  load  of  rich  earth,  was  led  by  canals 
into  basins  enclosed  by  earthen  banks,  where  it  deposited  its  sedi- 
ment and  whence  it  was  allowed  to  escape  when  the  river  had  fallen 
suffi(;iently.  The  crops  which  grew  luxuriantly  on  the  soil  thus 
annually  enriched  were  harvested  in  April  and  May,  after  which 
time  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  river  or  where  there  were 
wells  could  alone  be  cultivated  until  November  after  the  next  flood. 
The  amount  of  water  was  insufficient  to  meet  the  needs  of  agri- 
culture in  Egypt  during  the  months  of  May,  June,  and  July. 

Of  recent  years,  however,  especially  since  Mohammed  Ali  deve- 
loped cotton-growing  in  the  Delta,  a  great  change  has  taken  place. 
It  is  no  longer  in  the  fljood-season  alone  that  water  is  supplied  to 
the  land.  Several  large  works  have  been  constructed  in  order  to 
render  Perennial  Irriyation  (comp.  p.  Ixxi)  possible,  by  storing  up 
the  surplus  water  in  November,  December,  and  January  for  distri- 
bution in  the  later  months  before  the  arrival  of  the  flood,  and  by 
means  of  canals  and  numerous  regulating  works  water  is  supplied 
to  the  Delta  at  such  a  level  as  to  flow  on  to  the  cultivated  land  at 

BAiiDKK£B'a  Egypt.    Tth  Edit.  e 


Ixvi  U.   GEOGRAPHICAL  AND       c.  The  Nile. 

all  seasous,  thus  allowing  a  series  of  crops  to  bo  raised  througbout 
the  year.  Moliammetl  All  deepened  canals  and  began  in  1835  the 
construction  of  the  Delta  Barrage  (comp.  p.  122),  which  was  not 
completed,  however,  until  1890.  It  renders  it  possible  to  raise  the 
upstream  water-level  so  that  the  water  can  at  all  times  flow  into  the 
three  main  delta-canals,  the  Rayah  et-Taufiki,  the  Rayah  el-Menn- 
fiyeh,  and  the  RayAh  el-Belieireh.  In  1902  were  conipletedjthe 
Assuan  Dam  (p.  371 )  and  the  Assiut  Barrage  (p.  232).  The  tlrst  of 
these  works  (recently  heightened)  allows  a  reserve-supply  of  water 
to  be  kept  to  increase  the  insufticient  supply  of  the  river  in  May, 
June,  and  July,  while  the  second  enables  the  water-level  of  the 
river  at  Assiut  to  be  raised  until  it  flows  down  the  great  Ibrahimiyeh 
Canal  whii-h  supplies  the  provinces  of  Assiut,  Minyeh,  Benisueif, 
Gizeh,  and  (through  the  Bahr  Yusuf)  the  Faiyuni.  F"inally  the  bar- 
rage at  Esneh  (p.  342),  completed  in  1909,  provides  for  the  irri- 
gation of  the  provini'e  of  Keneh.  One  (dfect  of  the  modifications 
thus  introduced  is  to  diminish  to  some  extent  the  importance  of  the 
high  floods,  but  to  enhance  enormously  the  value  of  a  favourable  low- 
stage  supply,  since  in  April,  May,  June,  and  July,  when  the  supply 
of  water  is  lowest,  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  country  from 
Assist  to  the  sea  is  bearing  crops,  principally  cotton  ,  the  most 
valuable  crop  of  the  year.  Another  effect  of  increased  perennial 
irrigation  is  that  the  volume  of  water  brought  down  by  bountiful 
inundations  is  greater  than  is  now  required.  Of  late  years,  very 
large  sAms  liave  been  expended  in  providing  an  efficient  system  of 
drainage  to  prevent  low-lying  lands  from  becoming  water-logged 
and  the  Rosetta  branch  is  now  being  remodelled  to  increase  its 
capacity  as  a  flood-escape. 

The  breadth  of  the  Nile  valley  is  nowhere  great,  and  only  a  por- 
tion of  it  is  occupied  by  the  cultivated  alluvial  plain,  the  rest  con- 
sisting of  desert-sands  at  too  high  a  level  to  be  reached  by  the 
Inundation.  In  Nubia  the  cultivable  land  is  restricted  to  isolated 
patches,  while  the  valley  is  rarely  as  much  as  2-3  M.  wide;  in 
Egypt  it  is  wider,  varyiug  from  15  M.  at  Benisueif  to  5  M.  at  Edfu, 
of  which  13  M.  and  4  M.  respectively  are  cultivated. 

The  alluvial  deposit  which  is  annually  brought  down  by  the 
Nile  in  flood  has  accumulated  in  the  course  of  centuries  to  an  average 
depth  of  35-40  ft.,  occasionally  even  more.  In  composition  it  varies 
slightly  from  place  to  place.  As  a  rule  it  forms  a  good  light  soil 
being  rather  above  the  average  in  potash  but  deficient  in  nitrates 
The  view  formerly  held  that  it  had  a  high  manurial  value  was  an 
exaggerated  one,  and  it  should  be  considered  rather  as  a  virgin  soil 
which,  added  annually  to  the  surface  of  the  land,  enables  it  to 
bear  luxuriant  crops  year  after  year. 

Every  year  during  the  Hood  a  considerable  deposit  of  silt  takes 
place  in  the  river-bed,  part  of  which  is  carried  away  as  the  river 
falls,  but  the  general  result  is  that  the  bed  of  the  Nile  has  been 


<j.  The  Nile.  f OLITICAL  NOTES.  Ixvii 

slowly  rising  by  deposit  ai  an  av(Mai;e  rate  of  about  4  inches  prr 
century  for  at  least  5000  years  and  for  a  long  period  before  this  at 
some  undeterminable  rate.  One  consequence  of  this  is  that  temples, 
which  -wore  built  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  well  above  the  annual 
inundation,  are  now  below  it,  and  foundations  which  were  originally 
dry  are  now  below  the  indltration-levol  and  in  i'Oi\sequence  have 
deteriorated. 

This  remarkable  river  has  exercised  a  unique  influence  on  the 
history  of  civilization.  The  necessity  of  controlling  its  course  and 
utilizing  its  water  taught  the  ancient  Egyptians  the  art  of  river 
engineering  and  the  kindred  science  of  land-surveying,  while  in  the 
starry  heavens  they  beheld  the  eternal  calendar  which  regulated  the 
approach  and  the  departure  of  the  inundation,  so  that  the  river  may 
perhaps  have  given  the  first  impulse  to  the  study  of  astronomy.  As 
the  annual  overflow  of  the  water  obliterated  all  landmarks,  it  was 
necessary  annually  to  measure  the  land  anew,  and  to  keep  a  register 
of  the  area  belonging  to  each  proprietor;  and  above  all  it  became 
an  important  duty  of  the  rulers  of  the  people  to  impress  them  with 
a  strong  sense  of  the  sacredness  of  property.  Similar  causes  produced 
a  like  result  in  Babylonia,  Every  succeeding  year,  however,  there 
arose  new  disputes,  and  these  showed  the  necessity  of  establishing 
settled  laws  and  enforcing  judicial  decisions.  The  Nile  thus  led  to 
the  foundation  of  social,  legal,  and  political  order. 

Subsequently,  when  the  engineers  and  architects,  in  the  service 
of  the  state  or  in  the  cause  of  religion,  erected  those  colossal  struc- 
tures with  which  we  are  about  to  become  acquainted,  it  was  the 
Nile  which  materially  facilitated  the  transport  of  their  materials, 
and  enabled  the  builders  of  the  pyramids  and  the  other  ancient 
Egyptians  to  employ  the  granite  of  Assuan  for  the  structures  of 
Memphis,  and  even  for  those  of  Tanis,  near  the  coast  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. As  the  river,  moreover,  not  only  afforded  a  convenient 
route  for  the  transport  of  these  building-materials,  but  also  an  ad- 
mirable commercial  highway,  we  find  that  the  Egyptians  had  acquired 
considerable  skill  at  a  very  early  period  in  constructing  vessels 
with  oars,  masts,  sails,  and  even  cabins  and  other  appliances. 

From  the  earliest  historical  period  down  to  the  present  time  the 
course  of  the  Nile,  from  the  cataracts  down  to  its  bifurcation  to  the 
N.  of  Cairo,  has  undergone  very  little  change.  This,  however, 
is  not  the  case  with  its  Embouchures;  for,  while  ancient  writers 
mention  seven  (the  Pelusiac,  the  Tanitic,  theMendesian,  the  Bucolic 
or  Phatnitic,  the  Scbennytic,  the  Bolbitinic,  and  the  Canopic),  there 
are  now  practically  t\M)  channels  only  through  which  the  river  is 
discharged  into  the  se.i.  These  are  the  mouths  at  llosetta  (Rashid) 
and  Daiuietta(Dumyat),  situated  near  the  middle  of  the  Delta,  while 
the  Pelusiac  and  Canopic  mouths,  the  most  important  in  ancient 
times,  lay  at  the  extreme  E.  and  W.  ends  of  the  coast  respectively. 


Ixviii  11.  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  d.  Otology. 

d.  Geology  of  Egypt. 

1.  The  Nile  Vallky  and  the  I.sthmus  of  Suez.  The  building 
stone  generally  used  at  Alexandria  is  obtained  from  the  quarries  of 
Meks  (p.  26)  and  on  the  coast  to  the  E.  of  Alexandria.  This  is  a 
calcareous  light-coloured  stone  of  the  quaternary  period,  formed  of 
fragments  of  shells  and  foraminifera,  intermixed  with  oolitic  granules 
and  grains  of  quartz  sand,  or  even  with  fine  gravel.  This  rock  forms 
low  hills  to  the  W.  of  Alexandria  and  the  coast-strip  from  Alexan- 
dria to  Abukir.  In  many  places  it  is  covered  by  sand-dunes  and 
other  recent  formations. 

The  cultivated  plains  of  the  Delta  and  the  A'j7e  Valley  consist 
of  recent  alluvial  deposits,  ranging  from  fine  sand  to  the  finest  silt, 
laid  down  by  the  water  of  the  annual  inundation.  Under  these  lie 
coarser  yellowish  sands  and  gravels  of  pleistocene  age,  which  here 
and  there  reach  the  surface  in  the  Delta  as  islands  of  sandy  waste 
among  the  rich  cultivation  of  the  surrounding  country.  These  are  re- 
lated to  the  later  sand  and  gravel  deposits  on  the  neighbouring  deserts, 
and  to  the  traces  of  marine  cliffs  and  beaches  of  the  same  period 
which  may  be  seen  on  both  sides  of  the  valley  at  Cairo  and  at  other 
places.  At  Abu  Za'bal  (p.  120),  to  the  N.E.  of  Nawa,  occurs  a  low 
hill  of  basalt  which  supplies  excellent  road-metal  for  Cairo  and 
Alexandria. 

The  N.  portion  of  tlie  Isthmus  of  Suez  consi.sts  of  the  recent  marine 
deposits  of  the  Mediterranean,  while  in  the  central  portion,  near  the 
low  hill  of  El-Gisr  and  round  Lake  Timsah,  are  deposits  of  the  Nile 
mud  with  fresh-water  shells.  To  the  S.  of  the  Bitter  Lakes  are  found 
marine  quaternary  deposits  of  the  Red  Sea. 

Reefs  of  fossil  coral  of  quaternary  age  occur  over  a  large  part  of 
the  coasts  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  and  the  highest  of  these  are  now 
1000  ft.  above  the  present  sea-level,  while  five  or  six  others  occur 
at  lower  levels.  The  land  here,  or  at  least  the  coast  line,  must  there- 
fore have  risen  considerably  in  comparatively  recent  times,  and  the 
salines  which  are  now  forming  appear  to  show  that  the  movement 
has  not  yet  ceased.  The  shores  and  islands  of  the  Red  Sea  are  to- 
day fringed  with  coral  reefs  which  are  most  dangerous  to  shipping. 

Sands  and  loams  occur  to  the  S.  of  the  pyramids  of  Gizeh,  and 
at  numerous  places  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Nile  valley  between  Cairo 
andFeshn,  belonging,  as  is  shown  by  the  numerous  fossils  which  they 
contain,  to  the  pliocene  age.  The  small  valley  immediately  to  the 
S.  of  the  pyramids  of  Zawiyet  el-'Aryan  has  been  cut  out  in  these 
beds,  and  a  rich  collection  of  pliocene  fossils  may  be  made  here. 
These  deposits  are  intimately  connected  with  the  formation  of  the 
present  valley  in  pliocene  times,  when  it  was  at  first  a  fiord  into 
which  the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  flowed  at  least  as  far  as  Keneh 
and  perhaps  even  as  far  as  Esneh.  In  the  time  of  the  older  miocene 
sea  the  Nile  valley  did  not  exist,  but  instead  a  large  river  flowed 
from  a  S.W.  direction  towards  the  region  that  is  now  Lower  Egypt. 


d.  Geology.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  Ixix 

The  fluvio-marine  deposits  of  Moghara  (to  the  W.  of  the  Wadl 
Natrun)  and  the  silicifled  wood  of  the  same  district  also  belong  to 
these  mioceiie  times,  as  do  also  the  marine  limestones  of  the  plateau 
of  Cyrenaica,  to  the  N.  of  the  Siweh  Oasis  and  on  the  E.  edge  of  the 
Arabian  Desert  (at  the  foot  of  Gebel  Geneifeh  and  Gebel  'Atika), 
and  on  the  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez  near  Gebel  Zeit. 

The  'Petrified  Forest"  near  Cairo  consists  of  scattered  fragments 
of  the  silicifled  stems  of  trees;  and  these,  together  with  the  red 
sandstone  of  Gebel  el-Ahmar  and  conical  hills  of  the  same  material 
in  the  N.  parts  of  the  Arabian  and  Libyan  deserts,  are  connected 
■with  the  siliceous  thermal  springs  which  bubbled  forth  amid  the 
network  of  lagoons  which  existed  in  these  parts  in  oligocene  times. 
To  the  N.W.  of  theBirket  Kariin,  in  the  Faiyiim,  these  fossil  trees  are 
even  more  numerous,  while  in  the  sands  of  oligocene  age  innumer- 
able bones  of  former  terrestrial  and  marine  mammals  and  reptiles 
have  been  found,  which  were  carried  down  by  the  river  and  buried 
iu  its  estuarine  deposits.  A  flne  collection  of  these  fossil  animals  may 
be  seen  in  the  Geological  Museum  at  Cairo. 

The  cliffs  of  the  Nile  valley  above  Cairo  consist  of  middle  and 
lower  eocene  limestone,  containing  numerous  nummulites  (p.  116) 
and  other  fossils.  The  strata  are  gently  inclined  to  the  N.N.W.,  so 
that  the  strata  increase  in  age  as  we  go  towards  the  S. 

To  the  S.  of  Edfu  begins  thv  upper  cretaceous  formation,  here  re- 
presented by  the  sandstone  which  at  Gebel  Silsileh  forms  steep  walls 
of  rock  and  confines  the  river  in  a  narrow  channel.  This  'Nubian 
Sandstone  covers  an  area  of  many  thousand  square  miles,  extending 
from  the  oases  to  the  Sudan.  At  certain  points,  such  as  Assuan, 
Kalabsheh,  Wadi  Haifa,  and  the  third  and  fourth  cataracts,  ridges 
of  crystalline  rocks  (granite,  gneiss,  diorite,  etc.)  rise  through  it, 
and  form  black  or  reddish  hills  in  sharp  contrast  to  the  low  tabular 
masses  of  the  sandstone. 

2.  In  the  Arabian  or  Eastern  Desert  (pp.  362,  372  et  seq.)  a 
line  of  hills,  some  peaks  of  which  are  7000  ft.  in  height,  runs  parallel 
to  the  licd  Sea  and  at  short  distance  from  it.  This  is  wholly  formed 
of  crystalline  rocks  (granite,  gneiss,  diorite,  hornblende-si-hist,  mica- 
srhist,  talc-schist  and  tlie  andesites  and  allied  rocks  which  form  a 
great  series  of  very  ancient  volcanic  rocks,  the  imperial  porphyry  of 
Gebel  Dukhan  being  a  well-known  representative).  The  E.  and  W. 
slopes  of  this  range  are  overlaid  by  sedimentary  rocks,  usually  the 
Nubian  sandstone,  but  also  (in  the  N.  part)  by  limestones  and  marls. 
These  stretch  away  toward  the  W.,  forming  a  great  plateau  of  lime- 
stone in  the  N.  and  of  sandstone  in  the  S.,  in  which  the  Nile  Valley 
forms  a  narrow  trough.  Numerous  deeply  eroded  valleys  give  a  char- 
acteristic appearance  to  the  Eastern  Desert.  The  open  plains  are 
almost  bare  of  vegitation,  but  numerous  plants  may  be  seen  in  the 
valleys,  especially  after  rain,  while  in  the  sheltered  ravines  among 
tjje  hills  where  springs  occur  they  grow  luxuriantly. 


Ixx  II.   GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     e.  Agriculture: 

3.  The  Westekn  or  Libyan  Desert  (pp.  378  et  seq.)  is  totally 
different.  The  level  limestone  plateau,  about  1000  ft.  above  the  sea, 
extends  to  the  W.,  its  S.  escarpment  overlooking  the  lower  plain  of 
the  Nubian  sandstone  to  the  S.  In  deep  bays  in  this  escarpment  lie 
the  oases  of  Khdrgeh,  Ddkhleh,  and  Fardfra,  while  that  of  Bahriyeh  is 
situated  in  a  depression  surrounded  by  the  higher  plateau.  The  pla- 
teau is  waterless  and  practically  devoid  of  vegetation,  while  isolated 
knolls  show  how  rapidly  the  erosion  of  the  desert-surface  by  wind 
is  proceeding.  In  certain  parts  lines  of  sand-dunes  100-200  ft.  high 
stretch  across  the  desert  plateau  in  a  N.N.W.  and  S.S.K.  direction, 
sometimes  for  several  hundred  miles  with  hardly  a  break.  They  are 
most  developed  to  the  W.  of  the  oasis  of  Dakhleh.  The  floor  of  the 
oases  of  Khargeh  and  Dakhleh  consists  mostly  of  dark-coloured  sands 
and  clays  of  the  upper  cretaceous  formation.  Some  beds  contain  alum 
and  others  are  phosphatic.  Springs  well  up  at  many  points  from  a 
depth  of  about  400  ft.  and  furnish  an  abundant  water-supply  to  the 
cultivated  lands  (comp.  p.  Ixxii).  Some  of  these  rise  through  natural 
lissures  and  others  through  holes  bored  for  the  purpose. 

To  the  S.  of  the  oases  lies  the  lower  plain  of  the  Nubian  sand- 
stone. This  plain  contains  no  hills  of  any  importance,  but  pre- 
sents a  low  rolling  surface  covered  with  blackened  flint  pebbles 
and  concretions  of  iron  and  manganese  oxide,  while  the  silicified 
trunks  of  fossil  trees  are  frequently  met  with.  Yellow  drift-sand  is 
seen  everywhere,  but  it  is  only  occasionally  that  it  forms  dunes  of 
any  size. 

The  oasis  of  Farafra  lies  faither  to  the  W.,  and  to  the  N.  and  W. 
of  it  extends  the  plateau  of  eocene  limestone  as  far  as  the  oasis  of 
Stweh.  The  strata  here  are  mostly  of  miocene  age,  and  they  contain 
numerous  fossils,  a  fact  recorded  by  Herodotus  and  Eratosthenes. 

e.  Agricnlture  and  Vegetation. 

1.  Capabilities  of  the  Soil.  The  land  is  extremely  fertile,  but 
it  is  not  so  incapable  of  exhaustion  as  it  is  sometimes  represented 
to  be.  Many  of  the  crops,  as  elsewhere,  must  occasionally  be  followed 
by  a  fallow  period  ;  others  thrive  only  when  a  certain  rotation  is  ob- 
served (such  as  wheat,  followed  by  clover  and  beans) ;  and  some 
fields  require  to  be  artificially  manured.  Occasionally  two  crops  are 
yielded  by  the  same  field  in  the  same  season  (wheat  and  saffron, 
wheat  and  clover,  etc.).  The  great  extension  within  the  last  thirty 
or  forty  years  of  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar-cane,  which  requires 
a  great  deal  of  moisture,  and  of  the  cotton-plant,  which  requires 
much  less,  has  necessitated  considerable  modifications  in  the  modes 
of  irrigation  and  cultivation  hitherto  in  use.  As  both  of  these  crops 
are  of  a  very  exhausting  character,  the  land  must  either  be  more 
frequently  left  fallow  or  must  be  artificially  manured.  The  in- 
dustry and  powers  of  endurance  of  the  Egyptian  peasantry  are  thus 


Irrigation.  POLITICAI.  NOTES.  Ixxi 

most  severely  tried,  although  the  homogeneous  soil  of  the  valley  of 
the  Nile  requires  less  careful  tilling  and  ploughing  than  ours.  As 
the  dung  of  the  domestic  animals  is  used  as  fuel  throughout  Egypt, 
where  wood  is  very  scarce,  while  that  of  the  numerous  pigeons  (comp. 
p.  235)  is  mainly  used  for  horticultural  purposes,  resource  must  be 
had  to  other  manures.  One  of  these  is  afforded  by  the  ruins  of  an- 
cient towns,  which  were  once  built  of  unbaked  clay,  but  now  con- 
sist of  mounds  of  earth,  recognizable  only  as  masses  of  ruins  by  the 
fragments  of  pottery  they  contain.  Out  of  these  mounds,  which 
conceal  the  rubbish  of  thousands  of  years,  is  dug  a  kind  of  earth, 
known  as  Sabakh,  sometimes  containing  as  much  as  12  per  cent  of 
nitrate  of  soda,  potash,  and  cliloride  of  soda.  The  valuable  nitrates, 
however,  usually  form  a  very  small  proportion.  So  largely  have 
these  ancient  sites  been  worked  of  late  years,  since  intensive  cul- 
tivation began,  that  they  will  be  exhausted  at  no  very  distant  date. 
So  long  as  the  inundation  deposited  a  thick  deposit  of  fresh  mud 
on  the  basin-lands  every  year,  and  a  single  crop  was  raised  off  the 
greater  part  of  the  area,  the  land  could  go  on  producing  crops  inde- 
finitely, but  now  that  most  of  the  land  Is  irrigated  throughout  the 
year  a  very  small  amount  of  the  mud  is  deposited,  while  two  or  more 
crops  are  raised  annually.  To  meet  this,  manuring  in  a  much  more 
systematic  manner  than  hitherto  has  now  become  necessary,  but  as 
yet  few  cultivators  have  fully  realized  this. 

2.  Irrigation.  As  a  consequence  of  the  works  described  on 
y.  lx.vi,  the  whole  of  Egypt  from  Assiut  to  the  Mediterranean,  with 
tiie  exception  of  a  strip  of  land  along  the  edge  of  the  Western  Desert 
and  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile  above  Cairo,  has  had  its  old  system 
of  flood-irrigation,  i.e.  a  single  watering  by  the  annual  inundation, 
replaced  by  a  ])erennial  supply  furnished  by  innumerable  canals 
and  watercourses.  In  the  inundation  season  (p.  Ixiv)  the  sluice-gates 
of  the  dams  are  open  and  the  red-brown  flood  rushes  through  them 
towards  the  plains  of  l\gypt.  When  the  irrigation-basins  are  flUed 
up  to  a  sufficient  level,  the  water  is  left  in  them  for  about  40  days, 
to  deposit  its  suspended  mud  and  to  soak  the  ground  thoroughly. 
The  perennially  irrigated  lands  of  the  provinces  of  Middle  Egypt 
;in(l  the  Delta  receive  only  so  much  water  as  the  standing  crops 
ru([uire,  since  these  districts  cannot  be  inundated.  They,  therefore, 
under  the  present  intensive  cultivation  receive  a  very  much  smaller 
amount  of  mud  from  the  flood-water  than  the  land  v/hich  has  basin- 
irrigation,   and  this  has  to  be  compensated  by  extensive  manuring. 

Briefly  stated,  the  annual  routine  after  the  end  of  the  inundation 
is  as  follows.  In  November,  when  the  Nile  is  falling  and  the  whole 
country  is  amply  supplied,  the  sluice-gates  of  the  Assuan  Dam  are 
gradually  closed,  so  as  to  fill  the  reservoir  slowly.  This  is  usually 
accomplished  about  the  end  of  January.  The  gates  of  the  Esneh, 
Assiut,  and  Delta  barrages  are  similarly  manipulated  so  as  to  main- 
tain the  ne(;essary  depth  of  water  \n  the  supply-canals.   In  April  the 


Ixxil  II.   GEOGRAPHICAL  AND      e.  Agriculture: 

supply  falls  below  the  requirements  of  the  country,  and,  besides 
drawing  upon  the  supply  of  the  reservoir,  it  then  often  becomes 
necessary  to  restrict  land-owners  on  different  parts  of  a  canal  to 
drawing  water  from  it  in  rotation.  Periods  of  watering  alternate 
with  periods  when  the  water  is  employed  elsewhere.  The  intervals 
become  longer  as  the  river  falls,  and  the  supply  steadily  diminishes 
until  the  flood  rises  about  the  beginning  of  August. 

Above  Assiiit  flood  irrigation  still  continues.  About  Aug.  20th 
the  river  has  risen  high  enough  to  flow  into  the  supply  canals  and 
basins;  in  these,  when  full,  the  water  stands  for  40  days.  At  the 
end  of  this  period  the  clear  water  is  allowed  to  flow  back  into  the 
river,  or,  in  the  case  of  years  when  the  flood  is  exceptionally  low, 
into  other  basins  at  a  lower  level.  On  the  mud  thus  left  the  seed  is 
sown  and  a  crop  is  grown  without  further  watering.  In  years  of  in- 
sufficient flood  the  higher  portions  of  the  land  are  not  watered;  these 
lands  are  termed  'sharaki'  and  pay  no  tax  when  unwatered. 

The  irrigation  is  effected  by  means  of:  (1)  The  ^Sdkiyeh\  or 
large  wheels  (rarely  exceeding  30  I't.  in  diameter),  turned  by  cattle 
or  buffaloes,  and  sometimes  by  camels,  and  fitted  with  scoops  or 
buckets  (kddCis)  of  wood  or  clay,  resembling  a  dredging-machine. 
(2)  The  ^Shuduf\  an  apparatus  resembling  an  ordinary  'well-sweep' 
(with  bucket  and  counter-weight),  set  in  motion  by  one  person  only, 
and  drawing  the  water  in  buckets  resembling  baskets  in  appear- 
ance; as  a  substitute  for  the  sakiyeh  several  shadufs  are  some- 
times arranged  one  above  the  other.  (3)  When  it  is  possible  to  store 
the  water  in  reservoirs  above  the  level  of  the  land  to  be  watered, 
it  is  allowed  to  overflow  the  fields  whenever  required.  This  is  the 
only  method  available  in  the  oases,  where  fortunately  the  springs 
rise  with  such  force  as  to  admit  of  their  being  easily  dammed  up 
at  a  sufficiently  high  level.  (4)  Pumps  driven  by  steam  are  used  also, 
particularly  when  a  large  supply  of  water  is  required,  as  in  the  case 
of  the  sugar-plantations  on  the  banks  (gefs)  of  the  Nile  in  the  N. 
part  of  Upper  Egypt,  where  they  are  seen  in  great  numbers.  (5)  The 
Taftut',  a  peculiar,  very  light,  and  easily  moved  wooden  wheel, 
which  raises  the  water  by  means  of  numerous  compartments  in  the 
hollow  felloes,  is  used  mainly  in  the  Lower  Delta  in  places  where 
the  level  of  the  water  in  the  canals  remains  nearly  the  same.  — 
Archimedean  screws  also  are  found  in  the  Delta,  and  in  the  Faiyum 
there  are  undershot  water-wheels.  Occasionally  irrigation  is  efl'ected 
by  means  of  a  basket  (nattdl)  slung  on  a  rope  between  two  labourers. 
In  order  to  distribute  tlie  water  equally  over  fiat  fields,  these  are 
sometimes  divided  into  a  number  of  small  squares  by  means  of 
embankments  of  earth,  a  few  inches  in  height,  which,  owing  to  the 
great  plasticity  of  the  Nile  mud,  are  easily  opened  or  closed  so  as  to 
regulate  the  height  of  the  water  within  them.  The  efforts  of  govern- 
ment as  mentioned  on  p.  Ixvi  are  directed  towards  the  emanci- 
pation of  agriculture  from  dependence  upon  the  inundation. 


Seasons.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  liiiii 

3.  AoRicuLTUEAii  Sbasons.  Ill  the  time  of  the  Pharaohs  the 
Egyptian  agricultural  year,  which  originally  began  on  July  19th, 
■was  divided  into  three  equal  parts,  each  consisting  of  four  months 
of  30  days:  the  period  of  the  inundation,  winter,  and  summer.  At 
the  present  day  there  are,  strictly  speaking,  but  two  seasons:  the 
hot  season  lasting  from  May  to  September  and  a  cooler  one  from 
November  to  March ,  while  October  and  April  are  intermediate 
months;  but  the  effect  which  the  annual  Nile  flood  has  upon  the 
agriculture  of  the  country  rather  than  upon  the  ilimate  has  caused 
the  period  from  July  to  October  to  bu  considered  as  a  third  season. 

(a)  The  Winter  Cultivation,  or  ^Esh-Shittvi\  lasts  on  the  flooded 
lands  of  Upper  Egypt  from  November  till  April;  on  perennially 
irrigated  land  the  winter- sowing  takes  place  from  October  onwards, 
while  tlie  grain-harvest  is  reaped  in  April  in  Middle  Egypt  and  in 
May  in  the  Delta.  In  this  season  the  principal  crops  are  wheat, 
barley,  beans,  and  barsim  (clover). 

(I))  The  Summer  Crops  (Es-Seifi)  may  be  considered  as  growing 
from  May  to  August  in  the  basin -lands  and  to  October  wherever 
tliere  is  perennial  irrigation.  The  principal  crops  are  rice,  which  is 
sown  in  May  and  harvested  in  October,  and  cotton,  sown  in  March 
and  picked  in  September  and  October.  Most  of  the  latter  is  grown 
from  seed,  but  a  limited  amount  is  grown  from  two-year-old  plants 
which  have  been  cutback.  On  basin-lands  of  Upper  Egypt  where 
sufficient  water  from  wells  is  available  a  crop  of  durra  (millet)  is 
grown  and  harvested  before  the  flood-water  arrives. 

(c)  The  Autumn  Season  ('En- Mi',  or  flood)  is  the  shortest, 
lasting  barely  seventy  days.  On  the  rich  land  of  the  Delta  maize  is 
grown.  A  large  crop  of  durra  is  raised  on  the  perennially  irrigated 
lands  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  a  considerable  amount  also  grown  on 
those  which  are  not  reached  by  the  inundation.  This  crop  is  cut 
about  November. 

The  Agricultuk.\i,  Implements  of  tbe  Egyptians  are  exceedingly 
primitive  and  defective.  The  chief  of  these  is  the  plough  (mihrdi),  the 
form  of  which  is  precisely  the  same  as  it  was  5000  years  ago;  and  the 
traveller  will  recognize  it  on  many  of  the  monuments  and  in  the  system 
of  hieroglyphics.  It  consists  of  a  pole  about  6ft.  long,  drawn  by  an  ox, 
buffalo,  or  other  draucht-animal,  attached  to  it  by  means  of  a  yoke, 
while  to  the  other  end  is  f;i>tened  a  piece  of  wood  bent  inwards  at  an 
acute  angle  and  shod  with  a  three-pronged  piece  of  iron  (lisdn).  Con- 
nected with  the  pole  is  the  handle  which  is  held  by  the  fellah.  These 
rude  and  light  ploughs  penetrate  .but  slightly  into  the  ground.  The 
harrow  is  replaced  in  Kgypt  by  a  roller  provided  with  iron  spikes  (kum- 
/ud ,  literally  'hedgehog').  The  only  tool  used  by  the  natives  on  their 
fields,  or  in  making  embankments  of  earth,  is  a  kind  of  hoe  or  shovel 
(migrafeh,  fas,  toriyeh).  The  process  of  reaping  consists  in  cutting  the 
grain  with  a  sickle  (mingal),  or  simply  uprooting  it  by  hand.  The  ndraff, 
or  'threshing-sledge",  consists  of  a  kind  of  sledge  resting  on  a  roller 
provided  with  sharp  semicircular  pieces  of  iron,  and  drawn  by  oxen  or 
buffaloes.  This  primitive  machine,  being  driven  over  the  wheat,  peas, 
or  lentils  to  be  threshed,  crashes  the  stalks  and  ears  and  set.?  free  th« 
grain  or  seeds. 


lxx.iv  U.   GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     c.   Ayriculture : 

4.  Farm  Pkoduce  op  Egti't.  The  following  is  an  enumeration  of  all 
the  most  important  industrial  crops  cultivated  in  Egypt.  On  hearing  the 
names  of  those  with  which  he  is  unacquainted,  the  traveller  may  identify 
them  with  the  aid  of  the  Arabic  names  given  below.  The  various  pro- 
ducts are  enumerated  in  the  order  of  their  importance. 

a.  Cereals.  1.  Wheat  (kamh).  2.  Slaize  (dura  shdmi,  i.e.  Syrian; 
called  in  Syria  dura  only).  3.  Barley  (shi'ir).  4.  Rice  (ruzz),  cultivated 
only  in  the  lower  part  of  the  Delta  of  Alexandria  and  Rahmaniyeh,  as 
fa,r  as  Mansura,  Zakazik,  Sillihiyeh,  and  the  Wadi  Tumilat,  and  also  in 
the  Faiyum  and  in  the  oases  of  the  Libyan  desert.  5.  Sorghum  vulgare 
(dura  beledi,  i.e.  durra  of  the  country;  simply  called  dura  in  the  Sudan; 
Ital.  sort/ho,  Engl.  Ka.ffir-corn,  and  the  Tyrolese  sirch).  G.  Pennisetuni 
typhoideum  (dukhn). 

b.  LEGDMiNons  Plants.  1.  Broad  beans  (f&l).  2.  Lentils  {'ads).  3. 
Chick-peas  (/(r^mmw^;.  4.  Lupins  (^to'jnisj.  b.Vea.s{bisilla).  6.  Vigna  Sinensis 
(mbiya).  7.  Dolichos  Lablab  (lablab),  which  is  very  frequently  seen  fes- 
tooning walls  and  hedges,   but  is  grown  also  in  fields  (lilbiya  afin). 

c.  Green  Crops.  1.  White  Egyptian  clover  (barsim).  2.  Foenum 
Grsecum  (helbeh),  frequently  ground  into  flour  and  used  in  making  bread  ; 
also  generally  eaten  raw  by  the  natives  in  spring ;  not  to  be  confounded 
with  clover.  .3.  Medicago  sativa,  or  lucerne  (barsim  hegdzi).  4.  Lathyrus 
.sativus,  or  flat  pea  (gilbdn).     5.  Sorghum  halepense  (gerau). 

d.  Stimulants.  Poppies,  for  the  manufacture  of  opium  (afiUn).  —  The 
growth  and  importation  of  Indian  hemp  (hashish;  see  p  xxvi)  and  the 
cultivation  of  tobacco  (dukhkhdii)  are  forbidden,  the  latter  measure  being 
in  the  interest  of  the  customs-revenues. 

e.  Textile  Materials.  1.  Cotton  (kutn) ,  introduced  from  India  in 
1821,  but  extensively  cultivated  since  1863  only.  2.  Flax  (killdn).  3.  Hibis- 
cus cannabinus  (til).    4.  Sisal  hemp,  or  Agave  rigida. 

f.  Dyes.  1.  Indigo  argentea,  a  peculiar  kind  (iiileh).  2.  Lawsonia 
inermis  (henna).,  used  for  dyeing  the  nails,  the  palms  of  the  hands,  and 
the  soles  of  the  feet  yellowish  red  fa  very  ancient  custom) ;  properly  a 
tree,  but,  like  the  tea-plant,  cultivated  in  fields  in  the  form  of  a  dwarfed 
bush.  3.  Saffron  (karlam  or  'osfur).  4.  Reseda  Luteola  (bliya),  used  as 
a  yellow  dye. 

g.  Oil   Plants.      1.    Castor-oil   plant  (kharwa').     2.    Sesame  (simsim). 

3.  'Ra'P^  (selgam).  4.  Mustard  (khardal,  or  kabar).  5.  Arachides,  or  earth- 
nuts  (fUl  senndri,  or  simply  fUl).  6.  Saffron  (as  an  oil-yielding  plant). 
7.  Poppy  (as  an  oil-plant). 

h.  Spices.  1.  Capsicum  annuum,  the  Italian  peperone  (Jil.fil  ahmar). 
2.  Capsicum  frutescens,  or  Cayenne  pepper  (shatla).  3.  Aniseed  (yansUn). 
i.  CoTianier  (kusbareh).  0.  Cummin  (kammHn).  ^i'.'WigeWa,  (kammUii  aswad). 
7.  Dill  (shabat).     8.  Mustard.     9.  Fennel  (shamar). 

i.  The  Sugau  Cane  (kasab)  is  largely  cultivated  in  the  N.  part  of 
Upper  Egypt  (comp.  p.  Ixxii).  An  inferior  variety,  which  is  eaten  raw, 
introduced  from  India  in  the  time  of  the  caliphs,  is  cultivated  in  every 
part  of  the  country. 

k.  Vegetables.  1.  Bamyas,  or  Hibiscus  esculentus  (bdmiya).  2.  On- 
ions  (basal).!   one   of  the   chief  exports   of   Egypt.     3.   Pumpkins    (kar'a). 

4.  Cucumbers  (khiijdr).  5.  Egyptian  cucumbers  (frequently  trumpet-shaped 
and  ribbed;  different  varieties  csWa^'abdeldwi.,  'aggUr^  etc.).  6.  Melons 
(kdw&n ;  musk-melons,  shammdm).  7.  Water-melons  (battikh).  8.  Aubergines 
(hddingdn).  9.  Tomatoes  (iamdlim).  10.  Corchorus  oli'torius  (meWkhiyeh). 
ii.  Col(:ica,aia,(kulkds).  i2.  GutUc  (tdm).  13.  Mallows  ('i7(«66e»zeA).  14.  Cab- 
bage (korumb).  15.  Celery  (karafs).  16.  Radishes,  a  peculiar  kind,  with 
fleshy  leaves,  which  form  a  favourite  article  of  food  (figl).  17.  Lettuces 
(khass).  18.  Sorrel  (kommeid).  19.  Spinach  (i.ibdnikh).  20.  Parsley  (bak- 
d&nis).  21.  Purslane  ((•«5''«ft).  22.  Turnips  (/?/0.  23.  Carrots  (j'e^ej',  a  peculiar 
kind,  with  red  juice).  24.  Beetroot  (bangar).  26.  Cress  (Eruca  sativa; 
gargir).    A  variety  of  other  vegetables  are  cultivated  in  small  quantities 

n  gardens,  exclusively  for  the  use  of  European  residents. 


Trees.  POLITICAL  NOTES.  Ixxv 

5.  Tkkks  and  Plantations.  The  extensive  planting  of  trees 
since  the  middle  of  the  19th  cent,  has  introduced  a  new  feature  into 
the  Egyptian  landscape.  In  ancient  times  most  of  the  timber  re- 
quired for  sliip-huilding  and  other  purposes  seems  to  have  been 
imported  from  abroad.  Mohammed  Ali,  a  great  patron  of  horti- 
culture, at  one  time  offered  prizes  for  the  planting  of  trees,  but  his 
efforts  Avere  unattended  with  success,  as  the  climatic  and  other  diffi- 
culties attending  the  task  were  then  but  imperfectly  understood  in 
Egypt.  Ibrahim  followed  the  example  of  his  predecessor,  but 'Abbas  I. 
and  Sa'id  were  sworn  enemies  to  trees  of  every  kind,  and  they  were 
content  that  their  palaces  should  be  exposed  to  the  full  glare  of  the 
sun.  A  new  epoch,  however,  began  when  the  Khedive  Isma'il  sum- 
moned to  Egypt  M.  Barillet  ( 18691,  superintendent  of  the  gardens 
of  Paris,  one  of  the  most  skilful  landscape-gardeners  of  the  day. 
The  finest  of  the  shade-trees,  both  on  account  of  its  umbrageousness 
and  the  excellence  of  its  wood,  and  one  which  thrives  admirably,  is 
the  lebbakh  (Albizzia  Lebbek\  which  has  long  been  erroneously 
called  by  travellers  the  acacia  of  the  Nile  (the  latter  being  properly 
the  sunt  tree).  Within  forty  years  the  lebbakh  attains  a  height  of 
80  ft.  and  a  great  thickness,  while  the  branches  project  to  a  long 
distance  over  the  roads,  covering  them  with  a  dense  leafy  canopy 
within  a  remarkably  short  time.  Among  the  most  important  of  the 
other  kinds  of  trees  thus  planted  are  the  magnificent  'Flamboyer 
des  Indes'  (Poinciana  pulcherrima),  the  rapidly-growing  Jacaranda, 
Casuarina,  and  Eucalyptus,  tropical  fig-trees,  and  several  rare 
varieties  of  palms. 

The  lommonest  Tkees  of  an  Earlier  Period  which  the  trav- 
eller will  encounter  in  every  town  in  Egypt  are  the  following :  — 
The  Acacia  Nilotica  (sunt),  the  thorn-tree  of  antiquity,  the  pods 
(karad)  of  ^Yhich,  resembling  the  beads  of  a  rosary,  yield  an  excel- 
lent material  for  tanning  purposes.  Next  to  the  palm,  this  is  the 
tree  most  frequently  seen  by  the  wayside  and  in  the  villages.  Then, 
the  Acacia  Farnesiana  (fufnch),  with  blossoms  of  delicious  perfume ; 
the  sycamore  (gemmeiz).,  anciently  considered  sacred ;  the  zizyphus, 
or  Christ's  thorn -tree  (neb/c);  tamarisks  (atl);  the  Parkinsonia 
(seiseban);  mulberry -trees  (tut);  and  carob- trees,  or  bread  of 
St.  John  (kharrxLb). 

Among  the  Fruit  Trees  the  most  important  is  the  date-palm 
(Phoenix  dactyliftra,  naktda;  the  date,  halah;  the  ribs  of  the  leaf, 
yerid  ;  the  points  ('f  the  leaf,  sanf;  the  terminal  bud,  gummdr;  the 
bast,  t7f).  In  1907  there  were  5,966,010  date-palms  in  Egypt. 
The  date-palms  blossom  in  March  and  April,  and  the  fruit  ripens 
in  August  and  September.  Fre;h  dates  are  rough  in  appearance, 
blood-reil  or  pale  yellow  in  colour,  and  harsh  and  astringent  in 
taste.  Like  the  medlar  they  become  more  palatable  after  fermen- 
tation has  set  in.  There  are  no  fewer  than  twenty-seven  kinds  of 
date  commonly  offered  for  sale.    The  large.'^t  attain  a  length  of  three 


Ixxi^i  II.  GEOGRAPHICAL  AND     e.  Agriculture. 

inches,  and  are  called  ibrtmi,  or  sukkoti,  as  they  come  from  N.  Nubia. 
The  most  delicately  flavoured  are  the  dark-brown  dates  from  Alexan- 
dria, known  as  amhdt,  which  are  eaten  fresh.  The  value  of  the 
dates  exported  annually  amounts  to  about  one  million  francs  only, 
as  they  realize  too  high  a  price  in  the  country  itself  to  remunerate 
the  exporter.  —  The  dum-palm  (Hyphaena  Thebaica)  occurs  prin- 
cipally in  Upper  Egypt  and  Nubia.  It  may  be  seen  on  the  Nile  above 
Baliana  (comp.  p.  244).  It  is  a  broad-leafed  palm  of  medium  height, 
and  its  timber  and  bast  are  of  considerable  value.  Various  objects 
are  made  out  of  the  hard  kernel  of  the  fruit,  whilethe  soft  and  fibrous 
rind  is  edible  and  has  a  sweetish  taste,  not  unlike  that  of  ginger- 
bread. —  The  mango-tree  (Mangifera  Indica)  has  recently  been  in- 
troduced into  the  Delta  for  the  sake  of  its  fruit. 

The  vine  thrives  admirably  in  Egypt,  and  grapes  ('inah)  abound 
from  July  to  September.  Wine  was  extensively  made  from  them 
in  ancient  times,  and  this  might  still  easily  be  done,  were  it  not 
that  Egypt  is  already  amply  supplied  with  cheap  and  excellent 
wines  from  every  part  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  vine  blossoms  in 
March  and  April,  like  the  palm,  and  the  grapes  ripen  in  June  and 
July.  Oranges  (burtukdn)  are  abundant  and  cheap  (the  harvest  be- 
ginning in  September),  and  so  also  are  mandarins  ('■Yusuf  Effendi ) 
and  small  lemons  {lamun;  the  small  and  juii^y  fruit  of  the  Citrus 
limonium) ;  citrons  and  cedros  are  of  less  frequent  occurrence. 
Among  other  fruit-trees  we  may  mention  also  the  pomegranate 
(rummdn),  which  yields  a  handsome  return.  The  common  European 
fruits  likewise  abound,  but  their  flavour  is  generally  very  inferior. 
Figs  (tin)  are  very  common  in  summer,  but  caprification  is  not 
practised  in  Egypt. 

The  principal  Decorative  Plants  are  roses  (ward;  of  which 
the  Rosa  Damascena  moschata  and  Rosa  sempervirens  are  specially 
cultivated  for  the  manufacture  of  attar  of  roses),  oleanders  of  aston- 
ishing height,  carnations,  and  geraniums,  all  of  which  have  been 
grown  in  Egypt  from  a  very  early  period.  A  bushy  tree,  which  in 
its  half-leafless  condition  attra<"ts  the  attention  of  every  traveller  on 
landing  at  Alexandria  in  winter ,  is  the  Poinsettia  (Euphorbia 
pulcherrima).  The  insignificant  blossom  is  surrounded  by  leaves 
of  the  most  brilliant  red,  presenting  a  very  picturesque  and  strik- 
ing appearance.  Natural  forests,  or  even  solitary  wild  trees,  are 
never  met  with  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile  or  in  the  valleys  of  the  nor- 
thern deserts. 

f.  Climate  of  Egypt. 

By  Captain  H.  O.  Lyom. 

The  blue  cloudless  sky,   the  powerful  sunlight,   and  the  dry 

vrarm   air  are  among  the  first  facts  that  strike  the  traveller  on  his 

arrival  in  Egypt;  and  his  surprise  increases  when  he  observes  that 


f.   Climate. 


POLITICAL  NOTES. 


Ixxvil 


the  conditions  remain  uniform  day  after  day,  and  are,  in  short,  so 
generally  the  rule  that  'the  weather  ceases  to  be  a  topic  of  conver- 
sation. If  from  the  top  of  the  hills  or  cliffs  bordering  the  Nile  valley 
to  the  S.  of  Cairo  he  looks  out  on  the  boundless  deserts  on  either 
side,  the  visitor  will  realize  at  once  that  Egypt  is  practically  a  part 
of  the  Sahara,  a  verdant  strip  of  fertile  soil,  8-12  M.  wide,  depend- 
ent for  its  existence  upon  the  Nile;  and  that  the  refreshing  purity 
of  the  atmosphere  is  essentially  due  to  the  proximity  of  the  desert. 

Strictly  speaking  there  are  but  two  seasons  (comp.  p.  Ixxiiij. 
During  the  summer-months  (May-Sept.)  there  prevails  throughout 
the  whole  of  Egypt  dry  and  hot  weather,  tempered  by  steady  northerly 
\vinds,  but  in  the  other  half  of  the  year,  and  especially  in  December, 
January,  and  February,  the  storms  of  the  Mediterranean  exercise 
so  much  effect  on  the  Delta  that  comparatively  cold  weather,  witli 
cloudy  days,  is  sometimes  experienced  as  far  as  Cairo  and  even  up 
to  Benisueif.  The  temperature  is  sometimes  high  even  in  winter, 
but  the  dryness  of  the  air  prevents  it  from  being  trying,  while  as 
soon  as  the  sun  gets  low  the  temperature  falls  so  rapidly  as  to 
necessitate  precautions  against  a  chill. 

The  mean  maximum  and  minimum  temperatures  at  some  of  the 
more  important  points  are  given  in  the  following  table: 


1    January 

April      1       July           October 

Max. 

Min. 

Max. 

Min. 

Max. 

Min. 

Max. 

Min. 

°F. 

"F. 

"F. 

°F. 

°F. 

°F. 

°F. 

"F. 

Alexandria  .... 

64.4 

50.5 

74.5 

58.4 

86.7 

72.8 

81.9 

68.5 

Cairo  ('Abbasiyeh) 

64.7 

44.2 

82.9 

55 

96.8 

71.4 

85.6 

62.8 

Assiut 

69.6 

39.6 

90.8 

56.5 

99.7 

71.9 

87.9 

63.3 

Assuan 

74.3 

48.4 

96.6 

64.6 

107.2 

77.5 

99.5 

69.2 

Wadi  Haifa.  .  .  . 

74.5 

46.4 

95.9 

62.9 

105.2 

7.3.9 

97.5 

1 

68.5 

In  spite  of  the  essential  dryness  of  the  climate,  the  rapid  fall 
of  temperature  at  night  causes  morning-fog  to  be  common  in  the 
Nile  Valley  in  winter.  It  is,  however,  rapidly  dissipated  when  the 
sun  rises,  and  the  rapid  drying  of  the  air  as  the  day  advances  is 
shown  in  the  following  table. 

Percentage  of  Relative  Humidity. 


January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

Alexandria  .... 

64 

67 

65 

67 

68 

Cairo  ('Abbasiyeh) 

71 

67 

61 

53 

49 

Assiut 

69 

63 

55 

43 

37 

Assuan 

52 

45 

40 

34 

36 

Wadi  Haifa.  .  .  . 

47 

37 

31 

25 

21 

Rain  is  rare  in  Upper  Egypt,  a  slight  shower  in  winter  being 
the  most  that  is  usually  recorded.    Heavier  rain-bursts  take  place 


Ixxviii  II.   GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTfeS.         f.  Climate. 

not  infrequently  iii  the  desert,  and  on  rare  occasions  extend  to  the 
Nile  Valley. 

At  Cairo  rain  usually  falls  on  4-6  days  in  the  year,  the  average 
amount  being  about  one  inch.  In  some  years,  however,  as  much  as 
two  inches  are  recorded,  while  in  others  hardly  any  rain  falls. 

At  Alexandria  and  on  the  coast  the  regular  winter-rains  of  the 
Mediterrean  occur,  and  the  average  annual  rainfall  is  8-10  inches, 
most  of  which  falls  in  November-February. 

From  Assiut  southwards  the  prevalent  winds  blow  from  the  N. 
throughout  the  year,  being  slightly  to  the  E.  of  N.  i]i  the  spring- 
months  and  more  to  the  W,  in  the  late  summer.  In  winter  and  spring 
dry  S.  winds  occur  occasionally.  In  the  N.  portion  of  the  country 
the  winds  are  more  variable,  for  although  N.  winds  prevail,  S.  and 
S.W.  winds  may  continue  for  several  days  in  the  winter  and  are  a 
great  hindrance  to  the  sailing  craft  on  the  Nile  at  this  season.  These 
S.  winds  are  due  to  the  Mediterranean  winter-storms,  which  sweep 
by  from  W.  to  l].,  and  if  they  follow  a  track  between  Crete  and 
Egypt  produce  S.  winds  blowing  from  the  Egyptian  deserts  towards 
the  storm-centre.  The  winds  blowing  from  the  open  desert  are  cold 
and  by  their  dryness  seem  to  be  even  colder  than  they  really  are, 
so  that  visitors  to  Cairo  in  the  winter-months  may  experience  the 
sensation  of  a  somewhat  greater  degree  of  fold  thaTi  wonld  be  ex- 
pected from  the  temperatures  quoted  above. 

The  spring-storms  of  the  Mediterranean  are  nlso  primarily  the 
cause  of  the  Khamastn  or  hot  S.  wind  which  occasionally  blows  for 
two  or  three  days  at  a  time  in  March,  April,  and  May.  This  wind 
blows  from  the  heated  deserts  and  often  attains  considerable  strength, 
carrying  with  it  sand  and  dust  until  a  thick  yellow  fog  may  prevail, 
sufficiently  dense  to  hide  the  sun.  The  shade  temperature  under 
these  conditions  frequently  exceeds  100"  Fahr. 

On  the  desert-plateau  the  range  of  temperature  is  ,it  all  times 
of  the  year  considerably  greater  than  in  the  valley,  while  the  dryness 
is  much  greater.  In  the  valley  the  temperature  varies  comparatively 
little  and  sinks  to  freezing  point  only  for  very  brief  periods.  On  the 
desert-plateau,  however,  the  thermometer  often  stands  at  the  freez- 
ing point  and  may  even  fall  several  degrees  below  it. 


Ixxlx 


HI.  El-Islam. 

Bp  lYo/essor  C.  H.  Becker. 

The  term  Islam  is  used  to  connote  the  peculiar  civilization  of 
the  Nearer  East,  which  owes  its  characteristic  features  to  the  spread 
of  the  Arabs  and  to  the  reli.cion  of  Mohammed.  However  stranp:e 
and  novel  it  may  appear  to  us  at  first  sight,  it  is  nevertheless  based 
upon  the  same  general  principles  as  the  civilization  of  media;val 
Europe,  from  which  it  differs  mainly  in  being  represented  by  other 
peoples  and  other  races,  to  whom  the  brilliant  intellectual  develop- 
ment of  Europe  has  been  denied. 

■i  The  rise  of  El-Islam  has  become  historically  intelligible  only 
within  recent  years.  Formerly  it  was  tacitly  assumed  on  all  hands 
that  the  Arabs  had  imposed  upon  the  East  not  only  a  new  language, 
but  also  a  new,  specifically  Arab,  civilization.  This  view  agreed 
with  Christian  conceptions,  which  recognized  in  islam  only  a  new 
religion  and  founded  its  opposition  to  Arab  dominion  on  religious 
and  ecclesiastical  motives  only.  In  Christian  eyes  Mohammed  was 
identified  with  Antichrist;  he  instigated  his  barbarian  hordes  to 
hurl  themselves  iipon  the  Christian  countries  of  the  P]ast  in  order  to 
convert  them  to  Islam  by  the  sword;  the  oourseof  development  since 
antiquity  was  abruptly  broken  off;  and  the  Islamic  Arab  civilizatioTi 
superseded  its  early-Christian  predecessor.  When,  with  such  pre- 
conceptions as  these,  the  Arabian  historical  sources  were  consulted, 
they  seemed  at  first  to  yield  confirmation.  The  Arab  tradition  was  as 
ecclesiastically  coloured  as  the  European;  there,  too, ^ the  starti!'.g- 
point  was  Moliammed  and  the  Arab  migrations;  Mohammed  and 
the  early  Caliphs  were  supposed  to  have  reorganized  everything 
and  to  have  rreatcd,  in  all  essentials,  the  new  Islamic  civilization. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  erroneousness  of  all  these  current  concep- 
tions cannot  be  too  emphatically  insisted  on. 

In  the  first  place  it  must  bc^  clearly  understood^that  thc^^trium- 
phant  campaigns  of  the  Mohammedans  were  nothing  else  than  an 
Arab  Migration^  the  latest  and,  for  us,  the  most  obvious  of  the  great 
Semitic  migrations,  abu'^olutcly  analogous  with  the  great  migrations 
of  the  Germanic  peoples  in  Europe.  The  main  difference  between 
the  Arab  and  the  German ic~migrations  is  this,  viz.  that  the  Arabs, 
owing  to  their  religious  organization,  were  directed  by  a  central 
authority,  so  that  the  establishment  of  a  homogeneous  Islamic  em- 
pire became  a  possibility. 'It  was  not  religious  zeal,  it  was  not 
the  fiery  words  of  an  inspired  prophet  that  urged  the  Arabs  on 
their  warlike  mission  to  the  outer  world  ;  simple  necessity,  the  long 
continued  economic  decline  of  Arabia,  in  a  word  sheer  hunger, 
drove  them  into  tjic  rich  lands  of  the  settled  countries.  The  move- 
ment had  begun  centuries  before  Mohammed.  The  tribes  of  Inner 
Arabia  were  already  on  the  move,  a  peaceful  immigration  of  Arabs 
into  Mesopotamia  and  Syria  had  already  begun,   and  the  standing 


Ixxi  III.  EL-ISLAM. 

hostility  between  Byzantium  and  Persia  had  many  times  led  to 
incursions  into  the  settled  districts  by  the  savage  border-tribes  of 
both  empires.  The  tide  had  thus  begun  to  flow  long  before  Islam 
gave  the  movement  a  unifying  watch-word  and  an  organization. 
Universal  dominion  for  the  Arabs  was  the  watch- word  ;  that  was  the 
interpretation  put  upon  Islam  by  the  conquerors,  in  sharp  contrast 
with  the  initial  position  of  their  prophet.  They  had  no  thought 
of  converting  the  defeated  nations  by  force;  so  long  as  tribute  was 
paid  and  Arab  supremacy  recognized,  every  religious  and  civil 
right  was  confirmed  to  the  conquered.  At  first  conversion  to  Islam 
was  possible  only  by  connecting  the  convert  with  the  Arab  tribal 
system  as  a  client;  then,  as  a  Moslem,  he  became,  in  theory  at 
least,  a  fully  qualified  burgess  of  the  Islamic  theocracy  and  no 
longer  required  to  pay  tribute.  Thus  the  flood  of  converts  to  Islam 
soon  became  larger  than  was  altogether  pleasing  to  the  Arabs; 
but  the  impelling  force  was  not  terror  of  the  sword  but  the  great 
economic  advantages  that  attended  the  transition  of  a  mere  subject 
into  even  the  lowest  rank  among  the  rulers. 

The  key  to  a  proper  appreciation  of  Islamic  civilization  lies  in 
a  due  understanding  of  the  relations  existing  between  the  thin 
Arab  upper  layer  and  the  huge  underlying  mass  of  their  subjects. 
in  the  case  of  kindred  peoples  at  least,  it  was  easy  for  the  Arabs  to 
impose  their  language  as  the  language  of  common  intercourse;  and 
for  the  reasons  given  above  their  religion  also  was  bound  to  spread. 
But  for  the  rest  the  Arabs,  comparatively  few  in  number  and  on  a 
lower  stage  of  culture,  could  hardly  hope  to  stamp  a  new  civili- 
zation upon  the  highly-developed  inhabitants  of  the  ancient  empire. 
In  each  new-won  province,  therefore,  they  simply  took  over  the 
arrangements  for  governing  as  they  found  them,  and  with  them 
all  the  problems  of  economic  and  intellectual  life.  Even  their  reli- 
gion, in  order  to  be  effective,  was  forced  to  come  to  an  under- 
standing with  the  existing  ecclesiastical  conceptions  of  expiring 
antiquity.  The  religion  of  Islam,  born  of  the  religious -spirit  of  W. 
Asia,  did  not  of  its  own  strength  impose  upon  a  population  of  a 
widely  different  nature  that  religious  temper  which  is  to  this  day 
characteristic  of  the  Islamic  world,  permeating  state  and  society, 
family  and  individual.  On  the  contrary ;  it  was  by  the  people  of 
the  conquered  lands  that  Islam  itself  was  converted  to  that  view  of 
existence,  as  we  now  see  it,  which  infuses  religion  into  everything ; 
for  these  new  converts,  in  contrast  with  the  religiously-indifferent 
Arabs,  could  neither  do  anything  nor  leave  anything  undone  without 
bringing  it  into  direct  relation  with  God  and  the  future  life.  We 
must  therefore  think  of  the  early  Islamic  civilization,  not  as  some- 
thing quite  new,  introduced  from  elsewhere  by  the  Arabs,  but  as 
the  self-assertion  of  the  remarkable  mixed  civilization  of  the 
Near  East  which  had  developed  in  the  course  of  the  first  six 
Christian  centuries.    In  other  words,  Islam  is  the  heir  of  the  late- 


III.  EL-ISLAM.  Ixxxi 

Hellenistic  Christian   civilizatioi\,    which   we   must  regard  as  the 
hybrid  product  of  Greek  and  Asiatic  feelings  and  philosophy. 

When  that  point  is  established  Islamic  civilization  falls  into  its 
natural  position  in  the  general  scheme  of  the  historical  develop- 
ment of  the  wovhl.    From  the  days  of  Alexander  the  Great  down  to 
the  Roman  imperial  epoch  the  East  had  been  forced  to  bow  to 
European  ideas  and  to  submit  to  European  domination.  But  just  as 
in  the  days  of  the  early  emperors  the  Hellenic  spirit  was  suffocat- 
ed in  the  embrace  of  the  Orient  and  the  classical  world  hungrily 
assimilated  the  cults  and  religions  of  the  East;  so  an  ethnical  re- 
naissance of  the  East  began  in  the  second  century  and  the  Semitic 
element  steadily  asserted  itself  beneath  the  Hellenistic  surface. 
With  the  spread  of  the  Arabs  the  Orient  once  more  achieved  an 
independence  in  the  political  sphere,  corresponding  to  that  which 
had  slowly  been  growing  in  the  intellectual  sphere.    The  first  result 
of  the  political  union  of  the  whole  of  the  Near  East  was  that  the 
Greek  intellectual  impulses  there,  cut  off  from  their  original  sources 
of  inspiration  and  operating  only  through  Semites,  were  submerged 
by  orientalism.    On  the  other  hand  the  seeds  of  Asiatic  civilization 
found  fresh  nourishment  in  the  new  whole  formed  by  the  permanent 
political  connection  between  the  Near  East  and  Western  Asia;  and 
the  Asiatic  reaction  against  the  comprehensive  expansion  of  the 
Greek  spirit  operated  until  far  on  in  the  Islamic  period.   Thus  Is- 
lamic civilization  finds  its  organic  connection  with  and  place  in  the 
general  course  of  history.    Further,  we  recognize  another  important 
bond  of  connection;  for,  if  Islam  simply  carried  Christian  civiliza- 
tion a  step  farther,  we  are  no  longer  surprised  by  the  profound 
inner  relationship  between  the  mental  outlook  of  medisBval  Christ- 
ianity and  that  of  Islam  ;  both  systems  are  based  upon  the  common 
foundation  of  the  Greek-Oriental  civilization  of  Christian  antiquity. 
The  Arabs  on  the  one  hand  consistently  stressed  the  oriental  ele- 
ments in  this  civilization;  while  on  the  other  hand,  on  European 
soil,  the  Germanic  spirit  turned  farther  and  farther  away  from  these 
and  elaborated  from  its  inner  consciousness  the  typical  western 
forms  of  the  middle  ages. 

From  these  fundamental  principles  it  becomes  clear  why  Arabia 
could  not  permanently  remain  the  seat  of  the  caliphate.  Damascus 
superseded  Medina.  It  was  only  in  the  agitated  period  of  the  Arab 
empire,  the  period  of  expansion,  that  the  artificial  condition  of 
the  political  supremacy  of  the  Arabs  over  subjects  superior  to  theiu 
in  culture  could  be  maintained.  In  the  long  run  the  economic 
and  intellectual  influence  of  the  subjugated  races  was  bound  to 
tell  and  the  deposition  of  the  Arab  ruling  class  was  inevitable. 
The  levelling  influence  of  Islam,  as  it  was  understood  by  the  over- 
whelming majority  of  its  converts,  destroyed  the  economic  basis  of 
the  Arab  dominion  and  with  it  the  prerogatives  of  the  Arabs  as 
such.    The  net  results  of  the  Arab  period  of  Islamic  civilizatiou 

Bakdekkr's  EeTT)t.    7th  Edit.  f 


Ixxxii  III.  EL-ISLAM. 

were  a  simple  continuance  of  previously  existing  elements  of  civili- 
zation, an  advance  to  a  kind  of  syncretism  among  the  varied  civili- 
zations of  the  Near  East,  and  the  spread  of  the  Arah  tongue  and 
the  religion  of  Islam. 

By-and-by  the  people  that  was  nationally  the  strongest  and 
the  most  advanced  in  culture  within  the  wide  empire  of  the  caliphs 
began  to  assert  itself.  That  people  was  the  Persians,  whose  civili- 
zation even  in  pre-Islamic  days  had  permeated  the  Near  East  and 
was,  indeed,  the  chief  factor  in  orientalizing  it.  It  is  almost  im- 
possible to  exaggerate  the  Importance  of  the  Persian  element  in 
Islamic  civilization,  which  is  so  often  erroneously  spoken  of  as 
Arabian.  If  we  are  to  connect  that  civilization  with  the  name  of 
any  one  people,  it  must  be  with  the  name  of  the  Persians;  for  all 
the  notable  achievements  of  the  period  of  the  caliphs,  the  sump- 
tuous buildings,  the  works  of  literature,  even  the  higher  develop- 
ments of  the  religion  of  Islam,  are  utterly  un- Arabian  and,  so 
far  as  they  are  not  inspired  by  Greek  influences,  are  due  to  the 
Persian  spirit.  Only  the  domain  of  law,  so  intimately  connected 
with  the  beginnings  of  a  religion,  betrays  the  stamp  of  the  Pro- 
phet's native  land.  The  decisive  ascendancy  of  the  Persians  is  ap- 
parent enough  in  the  facts  that  the  Arabic  language  never  estab- 
lished itself  on  Persian  soil  and  that  under  the  Abbaside  caliphs 
it  was  a  matter  of  course  that  court  and  government,  architecture 
and  literature,  should  be  modelled  after  ancient  Persian  patterns. 
Moreover,  when  the  separate  provinces  developed  into  indepen- 
dent kingdoms,  it  was  the  Persian  rulers  alone  that  followed  local 
traditions,  while,  e.g.,  the  Tnlunide  sultans  of  Egypt  could  only 
imitate  the  Persianized  Baghdad  and  the  residence  of  the  caliphs 
at  Samarra,  Even  the  civilization  of  the  Fatimite  empire  was 
thoroughly  Persian. 

The  transference  of  the  imperial  residence  from  Damascus  to 
Baghdad  heralded  a  new  era,  and  the  Arabian  military  aristocracy 
was  simultaneously  changed  into  an  absolute  despotism  on  the 
ancient  oriental  pattern.  This  was  the  natural  consequence  of  the 
deposition  of  the  Arabs  as  a  ruling  caste  (p.  Ixxxi).  The  Arab 
aristocracy  of  birth  was  superseded  by  a  bureaucratic  aristocracy 
of  Persian  ofiicials ,  the  free  warriors  sank  into  the  condition  of 
paid  troops,  and  were  finally  replaced  by  an  army  of  slaves. 

With  these  slaves,  who  were  a  constantly  growing  factor  in  the 
Islamic  world  from  the  9th  century  onwards,  the  third  great  national 
element  powerfully  affecting  Islam  enters  upon  the  scene.  The 
Turks,  appearing  at  first  in  groups  of  slaves  but  afterwards  as  strong 
tribes  from  Central  Asia,  introduced  fresh  traditions  and  new  forms 
'  into  the  empire  of  the  caliphs.  This  third  phase  in  the  develop- 
ment of  Islam  begins  with  the  appearance  of  the  Seljuks,  the  most 
powerful  of  these  Turkish  tribes.  The  union  of  the  empire  had 
long  before  begun  to  crumble,  but  the  Seljuks  for  a  time  postponed 


m.  EL-ISLAM.  Ixxxiii 

its  disintegration.  Egypt,  indeed,  at  first  stood  out  against  tliem, 
but  even  Egypt  in  the  long  run  was  unable,  to  repel  the  tide  of 
Seljuk  influence ;  and  Turkish  civilization  penetrated  to  the  Nile 
under  Saladin,  who  himself  stood  upon  the  ruins  of  the  Seljuk 
power.  The  religious  reaction  was  accompanied  by  a  change  in 
ecclesiastical  architecture  (p.  clxxx),  and  the  establishment  of  a 
feudal  system  (very  different  indeed  from  the  European  system)  coin- 
cided with  a  total  alteration  of  all  titles  of  honour.  The  traditions 
of  Saladin's  epoch  were  carried  on  in  all  departments  by  the  Mame- 
lukes, whose  influence  is  most  conspicuous  in  Egypt;  while  the 
continuous  reinforcements  from  Central  Asia  conduced  at  the  same 
time  to  the  growing  accentuation  of  the  Asiatic  elements.  The 
Mongol  invasion,  which  finally  overthrew  the  Seljuk  civilization  in 
Asia,  came  to  a  halt  before  the  gates  of  Egypt.  Egypt's  brilliant 
period  ended  only  when  she  lost  her  political  independence  and 
became  subject  to  a  foreign  people  from  Central  Asia,  viz.  the 
Osman  Turks  (1517"). 

A  glance  over  the  historical  development  thus  briefly  sketched 
shows  at  once  why  the  Islamic  civilization  cannot  properly  be  named 
after  any  particular  nation ;  from  the  very  first  it  was  a  hybrid  civi- 
lization resting  upon  the  international  basis  of  religion.  Yet  amid 
all  the  mingling  of  the  various  constituent  elements,  amid  all  the 
confused  shiftings  of  peoples,  one  unifying  principle  is  clear:  wi- 
the steady  growth  of  Asiatic  Ideas.  Ante-dating  Islam,  the  process 
had  begun  in  a  reaction  against  Greek  intellectual  supremacy  and 
Koman  political  dominion;  European  fetters  were  burst  asunder  and 
shaken  off;  and  in  the  course  of  subsequent  development  both  the 
Near  East  and  Egypt  passed  under  the  direct  influence  of  Asiatic 
conceptions,  first  in  the  intellectual  and  finally  also  in  the  political 
sphere.  Rut  that  accomplished,  the  vital  ethnic  force  and  the  in- 
tellectual energy  of  Asia  were  exhausted.  This  is  the  true  reason  of 
the  striking  decline  of  Islam  under  Osman  rule.  Its  civilization 
has  culminated;  strength  fails  it  for  a  renaissance.  At  the  present 
day,  just  as  in  the  Hellenistic  period,  the  European  spirit  and  Euro- 
pean domination  are  pressing  forward  in  the  East.  This  western  move- 
ment in  the  historical  process  will  certainly  be  followed  by  an  eastern 
reaction.  In  any  case  only  the  form  and  not  the  essence  will  be  com- 
mon to  the  East  and  West  in  the  intellectual  sphere  so  long  as  racial 
difl'erences  exist  amon^  nations. 


Doctrines  of  £1-Isl&m  + .  El-Islam  counts  to-day  about  260  mil- 
lion confessors,  mostly  in  Asia  and  Africa,  but  to  be  found  in  all 
the  other  continents  also,  including  Australia.  It  is  rapidly  extend- 
ing, especially  in  Africa.  Almost  the  entire  population  of  Egypt 
(about  913/4  per  cent)  is  Mohammedan. 


+  Partly  from  the  former  article  by  the  late  Prof.  A.  Socin. 


Ixxxiv  TIT.  EL-TSrAM. 

Mohammed^  the  founder  of  the  religion,  son  of  'Abdalldh,  was 
born  at  Mecca  about  570  A.D.  and  at  the  age  of  forty  announced  him- 
self as  a  prophet.  As  he  found  no  acceptance  in  his  native  Mecca, 
he  emigrated  in  622  to  Medina.  This  was  the  famous  Hegrra  or  Uljra 
(quite  erroneously  translated  'flight'),  the  date  of  which,  on  the  in- 
troduction of  the  Mohammedan  calendar,  was  fixed  as  16th  Jtxly,  622. 
At  Medina  he  met  with  more  success,  and  from  the  position  of  a 
kind  of  magistrate  he  rose  to  be  the  head  of  a  new  state.  After  years 
of  fighting  he  captured  Mecca  in  630,  but  two  years  later  he  died  at 
Medina  in  the  prime  of  life.  Mohammed  never  represented  himself 
as  anything  beyond  a  mortal  man,  but  in  legend,  which  in  the  East 
lias  the  authority  of  history,  he  is  invested  \\ith  the  halo  of  the 
miraculous.  God,  it  is  said,  created  the  Light  of  the  Prophet  even 
before  the  creation  of  the  divine  throne;  and  this  Light  wandered 
through  all  the  generations  of  men  until  it  manifested  itself  at  the 
centre  of  the  world  in  the  best  of  created  beings,  a  noble  scion  of 
the  noblest  family  of  Mecca.  Angels,  opening  the  breast  of  the 
boy,  expunged  the  last  drop  of  sin  from  his  heart.  A  little  later  the 
Archangel  Gabriel  brought  him  the  Kevelations,  the  Korans,  which 
were  then  formed  into  a  book.  Mohammed  wrought  many  miracles 
and  even  raised  the  dead  to  life,  as  in  the  case  of  his  parents,  who 
turned  their  brief  resurrection  to  account  by  embracing  Islam.  Among 
his  most  celebrated  feats  was  the  splitting  of  the  moon  and  his 
nocturnal  journey  (mi'rSg)  on  a  miraculous  steed  from  Jerusalem  to 
heaven,  where  he  treated  with  the  Deity  as  to  the  number  of  prayers 
to  be  offered  by  the  faithful. 

The  starting-point  of  Mohammed's  teaching  was  the  conception 
of  the  Last  Judgment.  Borrowing  the  conviction  of  a  future  life  and 
of  future  rewards  and  punishments  from  the  Jews  and  Christians,  who 
were  found  all  over  Arabia,  Mohammed  exhorted  his  careless  fellow- 
countrymen,  who  lived  merely  from  day  to  day,  to  adopt  a  more 
serious  conception  of  life.  Paradise  and  hell  were  drawn  by  him  in 
striking  colours.  The  idea  of  the  Judgment  involves  the  idea  of  a 
just  and  single  deity;  from  the  beginning,  therefore,  Mohammed  had 
to  preach  the  strictest  monotheism  in  opposition  to  the  fetishism  of 
the  Arabs.  This  he  named  IdCini,  i.e.  resignation  to  the  will  of  God. 
He  believed  at  first  that  Christianity  and  Judaism  were  identical, 
and  he  desired  to  bring  the  same  glad  gospel  to  the  Arabs.  When  he 
learned  the  real  historical  relation  of  these  faiths,  he  postulated  an 
ascending  series  of  revelations,  culminating  in  Islam.  At  Medina  he 
at  first  endeavoured  to  accommodate  himself  to  the  doctrines  of  the 
Jewish  community  there,  but  soon  finding  this  impossible  he  shook 
himself  free  of  both  Christian  and  Jewish  fetters,  although  he  sdll 
adhered  to  Abraham  (Ibrahim),  who  was  venerated  by  Jews  and 
Christians  alike  and  was,  moreover,  according  to  the  Bible  Ihe  an- 
cestor, through  Ishmael,  of  the  Arabs.  The  ancient  temple  of  stone 
at  Mecca,  the  Kaaba  (^Ka'ba,  i.e.  cube),  became  to  him  an  analogue  of 


m.   EL-ISLAM.  Ixxxv 

iLo  temple  of  Jenisalein.  The  entire  native  creed  of  tlie  Meccaiis  was 
le-iuterpreted  on  an  Abrahauiistit  basis,  so  tbat  its  incorporation 
with  Islam  was  rendered  possible.  On  the  other  hand  the  reception 
of  Islam  by  the  Meccans  was  equally  facilitated.  In  addition  to  this 
assertion  of  religious  independence  the  Begira  had  another  conse- 
quence of  great  moment  for  the  future  of  Islam:  the  position  of 
the  Prophet  as  also  the  head  of  a  state  entailed  a  mingling  of  polit- 
ical and  religious  life.  And  as  a  matter  of  fact  the  present  maik- 
edly  political  character  of  Islam  is  a  result  of  this  short-lived 
tlieocracy.  Mohammed  further  had  dollnite  conceptions  of  a  revealed 
religion,  for  whicli  he  deemed  necessary  a  sacred  book,  a  prophet, 
and  a  fixed  ritual  with  recitations  and  liturgies.  But  at  the  date  of 
his  death  neither  Islamic  law  nor  dogma,  not  even  the  number  of 
daily  prayers,  was  lixed  and  determined.  The  comprehensive  system 
now  known  as  the  religion  of  Islam  gradually  grow  uj)  in  the  course 
of  time. 

The  foundation  is  the  Koran  (p.  Ixxxix),  the  very  word  of  God, 
which  was  collected  and  published  as  early  as  650  A.D.  This  con- 
tains few  rescripts  or  laws.  Next  to  it  as  a  rule  of  conduct  ranks  the 
Sunna,  the  practice  of  the  Prophet  and  his  earliest  associates.  To 
follow  this  example  in  all  its  details  became,  doubtless  under  the 
influence  of  the  Jewish  spirit,  the  aim  of  every  believer.  The  Siiuua 
was  glossed  by  the  sayings  of  the  Prophet  and  by  reports  as  to  his 
practice  and  as  to  the  things  that  he  suffered  to  happen  without 
comment.  These  formed  the  traditions  or  Hadiths.  Originally  the 
Ifadiths  were  substantially  genuine,  but  in  the  course  of  the  general 
effort  to  live  as  the  Prophet  did  they  Anally  became  the  literary 
vehicles  of  religious  controversy.  To  sift  them  and  to  harmonize 
their  contradictory  sayings  has  given  rise  to  a  science  of  itself.  In 
this  process  the  consensus  or  agreement  of  the  learned  (Igmd')  was 
the  deciding  authority,  which  thus  became  axxthoritative  over  the 
Sunna,  and  indeed  over  the  Koran  itself,  for  only  the  Igma'  was  able 
rightly  to  interpret  the  Koran.  The  early  scholars  of  Islam  too  re- 
ceived the  Igma'  as  the  most  important  principle  of  development 
next  to  the  Sunna  and  the  Koran. 

Founded  on  the  Koran,  the  Sunna,  and  thelgma',  Mohammedan  Law 
has  been  developed  into  a  canonical  system,  embracing  every  depart- 
ment of  life,  in  the  manner  of  the  Jewish  and  Christian  systems. 
When  the  Arabs  became  masters  of  the  ancient  civilized  countries 
of  the  Near  East,  there  arose  at  once  a  crop  of  unforeseen  legal  pro- 
blems, which  had  to  be  solved  according  to  the  Sunna,  or  at  least  in 
their  spirit.  The  impulse  to  independent  legal  activity  in  the  newly- 
conquered  lands  was  given  (as  in  the  'Irak  by  Abu  Hariifa^  d.  767) 
by  the  pre  -  Justinian  Roman  law  that  had  been  accepted  by  the 
Christian  church.  Against  this  intellectual  independence,  which 
allowed  room  for  differences  of  opinion,  arose  the  orthodox  party  at 
Medina  (iWuii.t  Ihn  Anas;  d.  795),   who  admitted  only  the  letter  of 


IxxxTi  III.  EL-ISLAM. 

the  ancient  tradition.  Afterwards  a  cotopiomise  was  attained  by  tbe 
admission  of  analogous  decisions  (Kiyas),  as  a  legal-theological  prin- 
ciple [Esh-  Shdfi'i,  d.  820).  A  considerable  number  of  schools  of 
jurisprudence  (madhhab,  pi.  madhdhib)  arose,  named  after  their 
founders ;  but  of  these  only  four  tinally  survived :  the  Mdlikites,  Hane- 
fites,  Shdfi'ites,  and  Hanbalites  (^pronounced  Hambalites).  In  Egypt 
the  Shafi^ites  and  Malikites  are  most  influential  to-day ;  in  Turkey, 
the  Hanefites;  in  West  Africa,  the  Malikites.  The  Hanbalites,  re- 
stricted to  Arabia,  are  of  inferior  importance.  Every  believer  must 
belong  to  one  or  other  of  these  rites  or  schools  (which  are  not 
sects).  They  mutually  recognize  each  other  as  orthodox  and  differ 
only  in  their  distribution  of  actions  among  the  five  recognized  classes 
of  'commanded',  'recommended',  'indifferent',  'blameworthy',  and 
'forbidden'.  The  science  of  law  is  known  as  Fikh  (recognition).  It 
forms  practically  the  entire  sphere  of  Islamic  mental  activity.  Its 
results,  varying  slightly  according  to  the  rites  and  adapting  them- 
selves to  the  interpretation  of  each,  constitute  the  Shert'a,  or  Shar', 
the  holy  law.  It  contains  the  collection  of  those  precepts  from  the 
Koran  and  the  Sunna  that  have  been  approved  by  the  Igma'  and  are 
therefore  authoritative.  Certain  later  text-books  also  have  attained 
a  certain  canonical  authority.  The  theologian  who  is  officially  en- 
trusted with  the  exposition  of  the  law  is  called  Mufti,  his  decision 
Fetwd.  The  chief  mufti  bears  the  title  Sheikh  uH-lsldm.  These  ex- 
perts are  necessary,  for  only  the  learned  can  grasp  the  eiijtire  com- 
plicated system.  These  learned  men  ('Ulamd,  sing.  'AUm)  and 
jurists  (Fukahd,  sing.  Fakth)  resemble  Jewish  scribes  rather  than 
Christian  priests.  A  sinner  may  reckon  upon  divine  pardon  even  if 
he  transgress  the  precepts  of  the  Sheri^a  daily  or  hourly,  but  if  he 
doubt  their  theoretical  authority  he  is  an  infidel.  This  is  why  Moham- 
medans are  always  ready  to  fly  to  arms  when  the  Sheri'a  is  threatened. 
In  practice  they  trouble  themselves  little  about  its  precepts. 

The  five  pillars  {i.e.  chief  duties)  of  Islam  are  the  profession  of  the 
true  faith  (p.  Ixxxviii),  the  repetition  of  the  daily  prayers,  the  pay- 
ment of  the  charitable  tax,  the  fast  during  Ramadan,  and  the  pilgrim- 
age to  Mecca.  Other  matters  dealt  with  by  the  Sheri'a  are  the  laws 
relating  to  family  duties,  inheritance,  and  marriage ;  the  manage- 
ment of  religious  endowments  (  Wakf,  pi.  Aukdf),  which  occupies  a 
ministerial  department  in  Egypt ;  and  the  regulation  of  ceremonies 
and  custom.  The  precepts  of  the  law  as  regards  these,  being  regarded 
as  religious  in  the  narrower  sense,  are  carried  out  in  practice  as  far 
as  possible.  In  other  matters,  regarded  as  more  theoretical  (such  as 
constitutional  law,  criminal  law,  the  law  of  real  property,  and  the 
law  of  obligations),  local  customary  law  ('Ada)  has  from  the  very 
first  outweighed  the  Sheri'a.  The  distinction  between  the  'Ada,  the 
commands  of  custom,  and  the  Sheri'a,  the  commands  of  religion,  is 
recognized  in  every  sphere  of  Islamii"  life.  The  extent  to  which  the 
Sherfa  prevails  in  any  country  is  a  measure  of  the  real  strength  of 


m.  EL-ISLAM. 


Ixxxvii 


Islam  in  that  country.  At  times  of  fanatical  excitement  its  prescrip- 
tions are  fulfilled  with  unusual  zeal.  Among  uneducated  people  the 
'Ada  and  the  Sheri'a  are  naturally  often  identified. 

The  hours  of  Pkatek  (saldt)  are  proclaimeil  live  times  a  day  by  the 
muezzius  (mn'eUdin)  from  the  minarets  of  the  mosques:  (1)  Maghrib,  a 
little  after  sunset;  {2)'Ishcft,  nightfall,  about  l>/2  hour  after  sunset;  (3)  '%&/', 
daybreak;  (4)  pnhr,  midday;  (b)'Asr,  afternoon,  about  3  hours  after  mid- 
day. On  Fridays  the  midday  recital  of  prayer  takes  place  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  eai'lier  than  usual  and  is  followed  by  a  sermon.  Friday,  how- 
ever, is  not  rejrardcd  as  a  day  of  rest  in  the  Christian  sense.  The  sonorous 
call  of  the  mue/./.in  is  as  follows  :  AUdhu  akbar  (three  times) ;  afh/uidu  anna 
Id  ild/ia  illatluh;  ashhadu  anna  Huhammedan  rasOlulldk  (twice);  fieiya 
'ala\jsaldh  (twice);  heiya  'ata'lfaldli  (twice);  AUdhu  akbar  (twice);  Id  ildha 
iUaiidh;  i.e.  'Allah  is  greatest;  I  testify  that  there  is  no  God  but  Allah, 
1  testily  that  Jlobammcd  is  the  apostle  of  Allah;  come  to  prayer;  come  to 
worship;    Allah    is  greatest;    there  is   no  God  but  Allah'.   —   The  duty  of 


washing  before  prayer  is  enforced  by  the  ritual.  In  the  desert  the  faithful 
are  permitted  to  use  sand  for  this  religious  ablution.  The  person  praying 
must  remove  his  shoes  or  sandals  and  turn  his  face  towards  Mecca,  as  the 
Jews  used  to  turn  towards  Jerusalem.  He  begins  his  orisons  by  lioldin;^ 
his  hands  to  the  lobes  of  hi^^  ears,  then  a  little  below  his  girdle,  and  he 
interrupts  his  recitations  from  the  Koran  with  certain  prostrations  in  a 
given  order.  The  most  usual  prayer  is  the  first  Sureh  of  the  Koran,  one 
of  the  shortest,  which  is  used  as  we  employ  the  Lord's  prayer.  It  is 
called  el-fdtUa  ('the  commencing')  and  is  to  the  following  ertect:  —  'In 
the  name  of  God,  the  merciful  and  gracious.  Praise  be  to  God,  the  Lord 
of  the  worlds,  the  merciful  and  gracious,  the  Prince  of  the  day  of  judg- 
ment; Thee  we  serve,  and  to  Thee  we  pray  for  help;  lead  us  in  the  right 
way  of  those  to  whom  thou  hast  shown  mercy,  upon  whom  no  wrath 
resteth,  and  who  go  not  astray.  Amen'.  Alter  praying  the  Moslem  looks 
over  his  right,  then  over  his  left  shoulder,  in  greeting  to  the  two  recording 
angels  who  write  down  his  good  and  evil  actions. 

The  Charitable  Ta.x  (zakdt)-  is   a  high   religious   ta.x   upon  properly 
graduated    accirding    to   the  kind   of  property,   and  earmarked  for  certain 


Ixxxviii  111.   EL-ISLAM. 

purposes,   cLietly   charily   and  the  'holy  war'.     Now,   however,  it  is  paid   ■ 
only  by  the  very  pious.    But  in  relijiious  rl=ings  the  zakat  is  an  inexhaustible 
source  of  supply.    A  special  kind  of  charitable  tax,  called  the  zaMt  el-fitr, 
or  tax  for  breaking  the  fast,  is  almost  universal. 

For  the  Fast  (^6m)  of  the  month  Ramadan,  the  third  of  the  chief  duties 
of  Islam,  comp.  p.'  xcvi. 

For  the  Pilgrimage  to  Mecca  (hagg)  the  pilgrims  assemble  ut  parti- 
cular points.  Those  from  Egvpt  usually  proceed  by  sea  to  Jidda  on  the 
Ked  Sea  (p.  424).  On  approaching  Mecca  the  pilgrims  undress,  laying  aside 
even  their  headgear,  and  put  on  aprons  and  a  piece  of  cloth  over  the  left 
shoulder.  They  then  perform  the  circuit  of  the  Kaaba,  kiss  the  black  stone, 
hear  the  sermon  on  Mt.  'Arafat  near  Mecca,  pelt  Satan  with  stones  in'  the 
valley  of  Muua,  and  conclude  their  pilgrimage  with  a  great  sacrificial 
feast.  On  the  day  when  this  takes  place  at, Mecca,  sheep  are  slaughtered 
and  a  festival  called  the  Great  Bairam  (El-'Jd  el-Kehir)  is  observed  through- 
out all  the  Mohammedan  countries.  The  conduct  of  the  caravan,  with 
the  gifts  presented  to  the  town  of  Mecca,  the  escort,  and  other  items, 
costs  the  Egyptian  government  more  than  50,000i.  annually. 

Other  Religious  PiiECEPTS  forbid  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors  or  of 
the  flesh  of  swine  and  the  eating  of  the  flesh  of  any  animal  not  slaughter- 
ed in  the  prescribed  fashion  or  of  blood.  The  position  of  women  is  clear- 
ly defined.  Every  Moslem  is  permitted  to  have  four  wives  at  a  time, 
though  monogamy  is  the  rule,  owing  to  economic  conditions.  A  woman 
has  full  rights  under  the  law  of  property,  but  under  the  law  of  succes- 
.^ion  and  as  a  witness  she  is  regarded  as  equivalent  only  to  half  a  man. 
The  practice  of  veiling  women,  usual  in  the  higher  circles,  is  a  matter 
coming  under  the  'ada  not  the  sheri'a  (p.  Ixxxvi);  except  in  the  towns 
women  are  usually  seen  unveiled.  The  ease  with  which  Islam  permits 
divorce  is  a  grave  moral  danger;  in  Mecca,  for  example,  prostitution  exists 
under  the  form  of  marriage.  Further  details  as  to  Islamic  law  may  be 
found  in  the  'Handbuch  des  islamischen  Gesetzes'',  hy  Th.  W.  Juynboll  of 
I.eyden  (Leipzig,  1908-10;  9  marks),  a  work  adapted  for  the  layman  as 
well  as  for  the  legal  expert. 

Dogma  by  no  means  plays  sucli  an  important  part  in  Islam  as  in 
Christianity  ;  for  the  simple  Moslem  creed  is  embodied  in  the  words : 
'There  is  no  God  but  God  (Allah)  and  Mohammed  is  the  prophet 
of  God'.  But  all  the  same  lively  controversies  over  dogma  have  not 
been  absent  in  the  development  of  Islam,  mainly  owing  to  the  in- 
fluence of  Grffico-Christian  modes  of  thought.  Just  as  in  the  sphere 
of  law,  we  find  here  a  literal  and  a  speculative  interpretation;  and 
in  the  sphere  of  dogma  also  orthodoxy  triumphed  by  adopting  the 
speculative  method  in  a  modified  form.  The  process  of  amalgama- 
tion is  generally  associated  with  the  name  of  El-Ash'ari  (d.  935). 
The  questions  most  eagerly  canvassed  were  those  relating  to  the  free- 
dom of  the  will,  the  attributes  of  God,  and  the  nature  of  the  Koran 
[i.e.  whether  it  is  'eternal'  or  'created').  The  orthodox  solutions  of 
these  problems  are  roughly  as  follows.  There  is  but  one  God,  in 
whom  certain  universal  attributes  inhere  (knowledge,  seeing,  hear- 
ing, etc.),  but  who  must  not  be  conceived  of  under  a  human  form. 
He  is  all-mighty  and  has  therefore  created  also  evil,  which  serves 
his  purposes  of  salvation  in  a  manner  inconceivable  by  our  limited 
human  intelligence.  Above  all,  God  is  the  Creator,  who  at  every 
moment  re-creates  all  things.  Causality  is  merely  the  creative  opera- 
tion of  the  divine  will.  In  this  connection  man  is  not  free,  for  every- 
thing is  immutably  foreordained  by  God's  will.  God  operates  every- 


111.   EL-LSLAM.  Ixxxix 

thiug  iu  man,  but,  man  is  nevertheless  responsible,  according  as 
he  assents  to  or  dissents  from  the  operations  of  God.  The  Koran, 
like  the  Logos  of  the  Christians,  is  conceived  of  as  uncreated  and 
co-existent  with  God  from  all  eternity;  hut  on  the  other  hand  the 
Koran  committed  to  the  Prophet  by  the  augel  Gabriel  is  created. 
The  cardinal  points  whicli  every  Moslem  is  bound  to  hold  are  the 
beliefs  in  God  and  the  angels,  in  written  ^e^elation  and  the  pro- 
]>hets,  and  in  the  last  judgment  and  predestination. 

God  as'd  thk  Angels.  Niuety-niue  of  the  different  altributes  of  God 
were  afterwards  gatbered  t'r.im  the  Eorun,  each  of  whicli  is  represented 
by  a  bead  of  the  Mo>lem  ro^^ary.  Great  imporlauce  is  attached  to  the  fact 
that  the  creation  of  the  world  was  etlected  by  a  simple  ellort  of  the  divine 
will.  (God  said  'Let  there  be",  and  there  was.)  The  story  ol  the  creation 
in  the  Koran  is  taken  from  the  Bible,  with  variations  fi'Oni  Kabbinieal- 
Persian,  and  other  sources.  God  iirst  created  his  throne;  beneath  th>' 
throne  was  water;  then  the  earth  was  formed.  In  order  to  kcei'  the  earth 
steady  God  created  an  angel  and  placed  him  on  a  huge  rock,  which  iu 
its  turn  rests  on  the  back  and  horns  of  the  bull  of  the  world. 

In  connection  with  the  creation  of  the  Armament  was  that  of  the 
Jinn  (demons),  beings  occupying  a  middle  rank  between  men  and  angels, 
some  of  them  believing  others  unbelieving.  When  the  jinn  became 
arrogant  an  angel  was  ordered  to  banish  them,  and  he  accordingly  drove 
them  to  the  mountains  of  Kaf  by  which  the  earth  is  sui-rounded,  whence 
Ihey  occasionally  make  incursions.  Adam  was  then  created,  on  the  even- 
ing of  the  sixth  day,  and  the  Moslems  on  that  account  oh.^erve  Friday  a.s 
their  Sabbath.  As  the  angel  who  conquered  the  jinn  refused  to  bow  down 
before  Adam,  he  was  exiled  and  thenceforward  called  Jblit,  or  the  devil. 
After  this  Adam  himself  fell  and  became  a  solitary  wanderer,  but  was 
afterwards  re-united  to  Eve  at  Mecca,  where  the  sacred  stone  in  the  Kaabu 
derives  its  black  colour  from  Adam's  tears.  Adam  is  regarded  as  the 
first  Orthodox  Moslem. 

The  Angels  are  the  bearers  of  God's  throne  and  execute  his  commands. 
They  act  also  as  mediators  between  God  and  men.  While  there  are  legions 
of  good  angels,  there  are  also  innumerable  satellites  of  Satan,  who  seduce 
men  to  error. 

Weiitkn  Eevelation  aso  the  Pkophets.  The  earliest  men  were  all 
believers,  but  they  afterwards  fell  away  from  the  true  faith.  A  revelation 
therefore  became  necessary.  The  prophets  are  very  numerous,  amountinii 
in  all,  it  is  said,  to  124,000;  but  they  difler  very  much  in  rank.  They 
are  free  from  all  gross  sins  and  are  endowed  Vjy  God  with  power  to  work 
miracles,  which  power  forms  their  credentials;  nevertheless  they  are 
generally  derided  and  disbelieved.  The  greater  prophets  are -idajn,  ^'oah. 
Abraham,  Moses,  Jesus,  and  Mohammed,  Jesus  being  the  next  greatest  after 
Mohammed.  Moses  and  Christ  prophesied  the  advent  of  Mohammed,  who 
is  the  promised  Paraclete,  the  Comforter  (St.  John  xiv.  16),  the  last  and 
greatest  of  the  prophets.  He  confirms  previous  revelations  but  his  appear- 
ance has  superseded  them. 

The  Koran  (Koran),  the  name  of  which  signifies  'rehearsal',  or  'read- 
ing', is  divided  Into  114  chapters  or  parts  called  SHrehs.  The  tirst  revel- 
ation vouchsafed  to  the  Pruphet  took  place  in  the  'blessed  night'  in  the 
year  609.  With  many  interruptions  the  'sending  down'  of  the  Koran 
extended  over  twenty-three  years,  until  the  whole  book  was  in  the  prophet's 
possession.  The  earlier  or  Meccan  surehs,  placed  at  the  end  of  the  book 
on  account  of  their  brevity,  are  characterized  by  great  freshness  and  vigour 
of  style.  In  the  longer  surehs  of  a  later  period  the  style  is  more  studied 
and  the  narrative  often  tedious.  The  Koran  is  nevertheless  regarded  as 
the  masterpiece  of  Arabic  literature. 

The  best  English  translations  of  the  Koran  are  those  oi  E.  /Sa2e(1734; 
obtainable  in  a  cheap  form  or  with  a  preliminary  discourse  and  copious 
notes,   edit,  by  Kev.  E.  M.  Wherry,    lb82-86,  4  vols.);  Rodwell  (London, 


xc  III.  EL-ISLAM. 

1861 ;  2nd  edit.,  1878J  ;  and  Falmer  (London,  1880).  See  also  Sir  William  Muiv, 
'The  Cdran,  its  Composition  and  Teaching'  (1878);  T.  W.  Arnold,  'The 
Preaching  of  Islam'  (2nd  edit.;  London,  1913;  12*.  6d.). 

Last  Jcdgment.  The  doctrine  of  the  resurrection  has  been  highly 
elaborated  in  the  Koran  and  subsequent  tradition;  but  its  main  features 
have  doubtless  been  borrowed  from  the  Christians,  as  has  also  the  appear- 
ance of  Antichrist,  and  the  part  to  be  played  by  Christ  at  the  Last  Day. 
On  that  day  Christ  will  establish  Islam  as  the  religion  of  the  world. 
Before  him  will  re-appear  the  Makdi,  the  'well-directed  one',  the  twelfth 
Imam  (p.  xtiii),  who  will  establish  the  Islamic  ideal  empire  and  will  render 
Islamic  law  supreme.  The  Last  Judgment  will  begin  on  the  appearance 
of  Christ.  The  first  trumpet-blast  of  the  angel  Asrdfil  will  kill  every 
living  being;  a  second  will  awaken  the  dead.  Then  follows  the  Judgment; 
the  righteous  cross  to  Paradise  by  a  bridge  of  a  hair's  breadth,  while  the 
wicked  fall  from  the  bridge  into  the  abyss  of  hell.  At  the  Judgment  every 
man  is  judged  according  to  the  books  of  the  recording  angels  (p.  Ixxxvii). 
The  book  is  placed  in  the  right  hand  of  the  good,  but  is  bound  in  the 
left  hand  of  the  wicked  behind  their  backs.  The  scales  in  which  good 
and  evil  deeds  are  weighed  play  an  important  part  in  deciding  the  soul's 
fate,  and  the  doctrine  of  the  efficacy  of  works  ia  carried  so  far  that  it  is 
believed  works  of  supererogation  may  be  placed  to  the  credit  of  other 
lielievers.  Hell,  as  well  as  heaven,  has  different  grades;  and  Islam  as- 
sumes the  existence  also  of  a  purgatory,  from  which  release  is  possible. 
Paradise  is  depicted  by  Mohammed  as  a  place  of  entirely  material  delights. 

Mysticism,  the  third  great  brauch  of  religious  thought  under 
Islam,  aims  at  an  immediate  union  with  the  divine  on  the  basis  of 
emotion,  in  contradistinction  to  the  hair-splitting  of  the  dogmatists 
and  to  the  doctrine  of  the  efficacy  of  works  taught  by  the  moralists. 
The  mystics  seek  their  end  in  two  ways.  On  the  one  hand  they 
bridge  over  the  vast  gulf  between  God  and  humanity  by  the  con- 
ception of  mediators  with  God,  viz.  Saints,  who  with  reference  to 
an  expression  in  the  Koran  are  known  as  'those  who  stand  near 
God'  (Auliya,  sing.  Walt);  and  on  the  other  hand,  by  emotional 
exercises  in  company,  they  aim  at  producing  an  ecstatic  exaltation 
of  mind,  i.e.  the  immediate  blending  of  their  own  individuality 
with  that  of  the  Deity.  The  latter  is  the  explanation  of  the  practices 
of  the  grders  of  dervishes  (p.  xci).  In  the  worship  of  saints,  which 
centres  principally  at  tombs  and  ancient  holy  sites,  we  trace  the 
same  popular  polytheistic  tendencies  as  appear  in  Christianity, 
connected  with  the  primitive  traditions  of  the  heroic  age.  A  not 
unwarrantable  attempt  has  been  made  to  deduce  the  fundamental 
forms  of  early  Semitic  religious  conceptions  from  the  practices 
current  to-day  in  the  Islamic  saint-worship.  The  recognition  of 
saints  became  possible  in  Islam  when  Mohammed  himself  was 
exalted  above  the  infirmities  of  humanity.  The  tomb  of  Moham- 
med at  Medina  and  that  of  his  grandson  Hosein  at  Kerbela  be- 
came particularly  famous,  and  every  little  town  soon  boasted  of  the 
tomb  of  its  particular  saint.  In  many  of  the  villages  the  traveller 
will  observe  small  dome-covered  buildings  with  grated  windows. 
These  are  saints'  tombs  and  are  called  ''Sheikhs''  (comp.  p.  clxxxiii). 
'Sheikh'  also  means  a  chief  or  old  man.  Shreds  of  cloth  are  often 
seen  suspended  from  the  gratings  of  these  tombs,  or  on  certain  trees 


m.  EL-ISLAM.  xci 

which  are  cousidered  sacred,  having  been  placed  there  by  devout 
persons  or  by  those  vcho  have  made  vows.  About  the  end  of  the 
i8th  century  a  reaction  against  the  abuses  of  Islam  sprang  up  in 
Central  Arabia.  The  Wahabis,  named  after  their  founder  'Aid 
el-Wahhdb,  endeavoured  to  restore  the  religion  to  its  original  pur- 
ity; they  destroyed  all  tombs  of  saints,  including  even  those  of 
^lohammed  and  Ilosein,  as  objects  of  superstitious  reverence,  and 
sought  to  restore  the  primitive  simplicity  of  the  prophet's  code  of 
morals.  As  a  political  power,  however,  they  were  suppressed  by 
Mohammed  Ali  (p.  cxxi). 

Another  development  quite  foreign  to  the  original  spirit  of 
Islam  is  that  of  the  Religious  Orders  (Turulc,  sing.  Tauka),  or 
Orders  of  Dervishes.  Starting  with  the  Christian  doctrine  of  as- 
ceticism (hence  Darwish,  Fak'ir,  poor  man,  Sufi,  man  in  a  woollen 
shirt),  the  mystics  early  borrowed  Neo-Platonic  (Dionysos  Areo- 
pagita)  and  subsequently  also  Buddhist  ideas.  Even  the  Buddhist 
nirvana  was  adopted  under  the  form  of  fand,  the  destruction  of 
individuality.  As  a  natural  consequence  pantheistic  and  other 
heresies  found  their  way  into  Islam.  The  orthodox  party  long 
opposed  the  recognition  of  the  mystics,  and  mysticism  did  not  effect 
its  footing  until  the  time  of  the  celebrated  philosopher  Ohazzdli. 
To-day  all  those  orders  that  accept  the  formulae  of  the  faith  and  the 
received  doctrine  of  religious  duties  are  recognized  as  orthodox. 
Each  order  has  its  own  fixed  system,  with  an  ascending  series  of 
degrees.  A  man  may  reach  the  lower  degrees  in  several  different 
orders,  the  higher  degrees  in  one  only.  A  member  enters  an  order 
with  a  view  to  obtain  a  share  in  the  blessings  of  certain  forms, 
which  have  been  consecrated  by  the  founder  of  the  order  and  are 
maintained  in  its  traditions.  The  zikrs,  or  religious  exercises,  are 
directed  towards  producing  a  state  of  mental  excitement  by  means 
of  pious  invocations  or  dancing  (hence  howling  dervishes,  dancing 
dervishes;  comp.  p.  71);  the  souls  of  those  who  reach  a  condition 
of  ecstasy  are  considered  to  be  absorbed  in  the  Deity.  These  orders 
represent  in  the  East  the  religious  and  other  associations  of  Europe; 
and  this  fact  is  the  key  to  their  significance.  They  are  more  im- 
portant economically  than  politically,  though  great  political  move- 
ments, even  in  recent  times,  have  been  brought  about  by  organi- 
zations resembling  these  orders,  as,  e.g.,  the  insurrection  of  the 
Mahdi  at  Khartiim.  The  original  orders  were  few,  but  numerous 
subdivisions  have  in  course  of  time  established  themselves  on  an 
independent  footing.  In  Egypt  all  the  orders  are  under  the  control 
of  the  Sheikh  el-Bekrl,  who  is  the  political  representative  of  their 
interests  and  presides  at  public  functions. 

The  following  are  the  principal  orders  of  dervishes  (tarikai  ed  dav&wish) 
in  Egypt:  — 

(1)  Thp  Rifd'ineh  (sing,  rifd'i) ,  an  order  founded  by  Seiyid  Ahmed 
er-Ritu'i  el-Koblr,  are  recognizable  by  their  black  flags  and  black,  dai-k 
blue,  or  bluish-green  turbans.    The  best-known  branches  of  this  order  are 


xuii  m.  EL-ISLAM. 

the  tfldd  'Jlwdn,  or  ' Uuidniyeh  Dervishes^  aud  the  Ha'diych  Dervishes.  The 
former  are  noted  for  their  extraordinary  performances  at  festivals,  sach 
as  thrusting  iron  nails  into  their  eyes  aud  arms,  breaking  large  stones 
against  their  chests,  as  they  lie  on  their  backs  on  the  ground,  and  swallow- 
ing burning  charcoal  and  fragments  of  glass.  The  Sa'diyeh,  who  usually 
carry  green  tlags,  are  snake-charmers  (p.  xxvii).  —  Belonging  to  this  group 
but  actually  independent  and  ]>eculiar  to  Egypt,  are  — 

(2j  The  Ahmediyeh  (sing,  ahmedi),  the  order  of  the  Egyptian  national 
saint  Sciyid  Ahmed  el-Bedawi,  who  is  buried  at  Tauta  (p.  33).  They 
are  recognized  by  their  red  banners  and  red  turbans.  This  order  is 
divided  into  many  branches,  but  of  these  the  two  most  important  only  need 
be  mentioned.  One  of  these  is  the  much  respected  Baiyimiyeh  or  Shinnd- 
whjch,  who  play  an  important  part  in  the  ceremonies  at  Tania  (p.  33j. 
The  other  branch  is  that  of  the  IJldd  NHh,  who  are  generally  young  men 
wearing  high  pointed  caps  and  carrying  wooden  swords  aud  a  kind  of 
wliip.  —  Connected  with  this  group  by  a  mystic  genealogy  are  — 

(3)  The  Mirghaniyeh  or  Ehatmiyeli ^  an  order  conspicuous  for  the  energy 
of  its  zikrs  on  dervish  festivals  {e.g.  the  Muljd  of  the  ProphetJ.  The 
Nubians  have  joined  this  order  in  large  numbers,  and  it  is  wide-spread 
also  in  the  Sudan.  —  To  the  same  group  belong  — 

(4)  The  Burhdmiyeh,  the  order  of  Ibrahim  ed-Besuki  (p.  32),  an  ex- 
ceedingly popular  saint  in  Egypt.     Their  colour  is  green. 

(5)  The  Kddiriyeh  (sing,  koidiri) ,  one  of  the  most  widely  distributed 
orders,  founded  by  the  celebrated  Seiyid  'Abd  el-Kadir  cl-Gilaui,  arc 
quite  indeiiendcnt.     Their  banners  and  turbans  are  white. 

In  additiiin  to  these  there  are  30-40  less  important  orders  and  sects. 
The  Turkish  order  of  the  ifevUvis  (comp.  p.  71)  discharge  the  religious 
functions  connected  with  the  Khedive's  court. 

A  few  words  may  be  added  on  the  Sects,  tliougk  sectarianism  is 
much  less  important  in  Islam  than  in  other  religions.  Mohammedan 
sects  separate  on  a  point  of  constitutional  law,  the  question  Ijeing 
which  of  the  early  caliphs  were  the  legitimate  successors  of  Moham- 
med. The  Orthodox  Party,  which  alone  prevails  in  Egypt,  recognizes 
all  the  'rightly  directed'  caliphs  —  Abu  Bekr,  Omar,  'Othman, 
and'Ali.  The  Shiites  (from  Slua,  party,  i.e.  the  party  of'Ali)  regard 
'All  and  his  sons  Hasan  and  Hosein  as  the  only  legitimate  caliphs 
and  imams  Q.e.  leaders  in  prayer),  the  twelfth  [or  seventh)  of 
whom  is  believed  to  be  awaiting  in  concealment  the  day  of  restor- 
ation. The  fChdregites  recognize  only  Abu  Bekr  and  Omar.  All  the 
sects  have  their  traditions,  and  when  the  Shiites  are  said  to  reject 
tlie  Sunna,  the  remark  applies  only  to  the  orthodox  Sunna.  Their 
Sunna  has  developed  in  the  same  manner  as  that  of  the  Orthodox, 
but  along  different  lines.  The  same  is  true  of  all  the  Moslem  sects. 
Egypt  has  been  under  a  Shiite  re'gime  only  in  the  time  of  the 
Fatimites,  who  recognized  the  seventh  Imam.  This  dynasty  called 
themselves  after  Fatima,  daughter  of  the  Prophet  and  wife  of  'All, 
from  whom  they  claimed  descent.  They  professed  a  secret  doctrine 
which  resulted  in  scepticism. 


ra.   MOHAMMEDAN  CUSTOMS.  xciii 

Bomarks  on  Mohammedan  Customs. 

The  rite  of  circuineision  is  performed  on  boys  up  to  tlie  age  of 
six  or  seven,  or  even  later,  the  ceremony  being  attended  witli  great 
pomp.  Tlie  child  is  previously  conducted  through  the  streets  in  holiday 
attire;  in  order  to  diminish  the  expense  of  the  proceedings,  tlie 
procession  is  frequently  united  with  some  bridal  party,  or  two  or 
more  boys  are  driven  together  in  a  carriage.  The  boy  generally 
wears  a  turban  of  red  cashmere,  girls'  clothes  of  the  richest  poss- 
ible description,  and  conspicuous  female  ornaments,  which  are 
ilesigneil  to  attract  attention  and  thus  avert  the  evil  eye  from  his 
person.  He  half  covers  his  face  with  an  embroidered  handkerchief; 
and  the  barber  wlio  performs  the  operation  and  a  noisy  troop  of 
musicians  head  the  procession.  The  first  personage  in  the  procession 
is  usually  the  barber's  boy,  carrying  the  ^heml\  or  barber's  sign,  a 
kind  of  cupboard  made  of  wood,  in  the  form  of  a  half-cylinder,  with 
four  short  legs. 

Girls  are  generally  married  in  their  I2th  or  1.3th,  and  some- 
times as  early  as  their  iOth  year.  A  man  in  search  of  a  bride 
employs  the  services  of  a  relative  or  of  a  professional  female  match- 
maker, and  he  never  has  an  opportunity  of  seeing  his  bride  until 
the  wedding-day,  except  when  the  parties  belong  to  the  lowest 
classes.  When  everythiTig  is  arranged,  the  affianced  bridegroom 
has  to  pay  a  bridal -portion  (mnhr)  amounting  to  about  25  Z.,  less 
being  paid  when  the  bride  is  a  widow.  Generally  speaking,  about 
two-thirds  of  the  sum,  the  amount  of  which  always  forms  a  subject 
of  lively  discussion,  is  paid  ilown,  while  one-third  is  settled  upon 
the  wife,  being  payable  on  the  death  of  the  husband  or  on  his 
divorcing  her  against  her  will.  Before  the  wedding  the  bride  is 
conducted  in  gala  attire  and  with  great  ceremony  to  the  bath.  This 
procession  is  called  ^Zeffet  el-Hnmmi\m.  It  is  headed  by  several 
musicians  with  hautbois  and  drums ;  these  arc  followed  by  several 
married  female  friciuls  aiul  relatives  of  the  bride  in  pairs,  aTid  after 
these  come  a  number  of  young  girls.  The  bride  follows,  under  a 
silken  canopy  opeii  in  front.  In  Cairo,  however,  this  canopy  is  now 
generally  replaced  by  a  carriage  of  some  kind.  The  shrieks  of  joy 
which  women  of  the  lower  classes  utter  on  such  occasions  are  called 
zaghar'it  (sing,  zaghruta).  The  bride  is  afterwards  conducted  with 
the  same  formalities  to  the  house  of  her  hTisband. 

The  ceremonies  observed  at  funerals  are  not  less  remarkable 
than  those  that  attend  weddings.  If  the  death  occurs  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  funeral  takes  place  the  same  day ;  but  if  in  the  evening, 
it  is  postponed  till  next  day.  Tlie  body  is  washed  and  mourned 
over  by  the  family  and  the  professional  mourning  women  (nedda- 
beh);  the  filch,  or  schoolmasters,  read  several  silrehs  of  the  Koran 
by  its  side ;  after  this,  it  is  wrapped  in  its  white  or  green  winding 
sheet,  placed  on  the  bier,   and  then  carried  forth  in  solemn  pro- 


xciv  III.  MOHAMMEDAN  CUSTOMS. 

cession.  The  foremost  persons  in  the  cortege  are  usually  six  or  more 
poor,  and  generally  blind,  men,  who  walk  in  twos  or  threes  at  a 
slow  pace,  chanting  the  creed  —  'There  is  no  God  hut  God ;  Moham- 
med is  the  ambassador  of  God ;  God  be  gracious  to  him  and  preserve 
him  !'  These  are  followed  by  several  male  relatives  of  the  deceased, 
and  sometimes  by  a  number  of  dervishes  with  the  flags  of  their 
order,  and  then  by  a  few  boys,  one  of  whom  carries  a  copy  of  the 
Koran.  The  boys  usually  chant  in  a  loud  and  shrill  voice  several 
passages  from  the  '"Hashrlyeli,  a  poem  describing  the  last  judgment. 
The  bier,  with  the  head  of  the  deceased  foremost,  comes  next, 
being  borne  by  three  or  four  of  his  friends,  who  are  relieved  from 
time  to  time  by  others.  After  the  bier  come  the  female  relatives, 
with  dishevelled  hair,  sobbing  aloud,  and  frequently  accompanied 
by  professional  mourning  women,  whose  business  it  is  to  extol  the 
merits  of  the  deceased.  If  the  deceased  was  the  husband  or  father 
of  the  family  one  of  the  cries  is  :  '0  thou  camel  of  my  house',  the 
camel  being  the  emblem  of  the  bread-winner  of  the  household. 
The  body  is  first  carried  into  that  mosque  for  whose  patron  saints 
the  relatives  entertain  the  greatest  veneration,  and  prayers  are 
there  offered  on  its  behalf.  The  body  is  then  borne  to  the  cemetery, 
where  it  is  laid  in  the  tomb  in  such  a  position  that  the  face  is 
turned  towards  Mecca. 

Among  the  women  are  the  relatives  and  friends  of  the  deceased, 
distinguished  by  a  strip  (usually  blue)  of  linen,  cotton,  or  muslin 
bound  round  the  head,  with  the  end  hanging  down  behind.  Men 
wear  no  mourning  clothes.  The  women,  especially  in  the  country, 
frequently  put  dust  on  their  brows  and  breasts,  a  practice  which  is 
a  survival  from  antiquity,  as  may  be  seen  on  comparing  the  re- 
presentations of  ancient  funerals  at  Thebes  and  elsewhere.  Rich 
men  or  pious  sheikhs  and  'ulamas  are  buried  with  greater  pomp, 
to  which  religious  fraternities  and  dervishes  with  their  flags  contri- 
bute ;  water  is  distributed ;  and  the  riding-horse  and  a  buffalo  are 
led  in  the  procession.  The  buffalo  is  slaughtered  at  the  tomb  and 
its  flesh  distributed  among  the  poor. 

Another  custom  peculiar  to  the  Moslems  is  the  separation  of 
the  sexes  even  after  death.  In  family-vaults  one  side  is  set  apart 
for  the  men,  the  other  for  the  women  (comp.  p.  clxsxiii).  Between 
these  vaults  is  the  entrance  to  the  tomb,  usually  covered  with  a 
single  large  slab.  The  vaults  are  high  enough  to  admit  of  the 
deceased  sitting  upright  in  them  when  he  is  being  examined  by 
the  angels  Munkar  and  Nektr  on  the  first  night  after  his  interment. 


m.  RELIGIOUS  FESTIVALS. 


Mohammedan  Calendar.     Festivals. 


The  Mohammedan  era  begins  with  July  16th  of  the  year  62'2  A.I).,  be- 
ing the  day  of  Mohammed's  so-called  flight  (Hegira)  from  Mecca  to  Me- 
dina (p.  Ixxxiv).  The  Mohammedan  year  is  purely  lunar  and  has  no  refer- 
ence or  relation  to  the  sun;  it  contains  354  days,  op  355  in  leap-year.'J, 
eleven  of  which  occur  in  each  cycle  of  30  years.  There  are  12  months, 
the  first,  third,  etc..  of  which  have  29  days  each,  the  second,  fourth,  etc., 
30  days.     Their  names  arc  given  at  p.  xxxix. 

In  order  approximately  to  convert  a  year  of  our  era  into  one  of  the 
Moslem  era,  subtract  622,  divide  the  remainder  by  38,  and  add  the  quotient 
to  the  dividend;  or,  subtract  622,  multiply  the  result  by  1.0307  and  add 
0.46.  Conversely,  a  year  of  the  Mohammedan  era  is  converted  into  one  of 
the  Chri.'tian  era  by  dividing  it  by  33,  subtracting  the  quotient  from  it, 
and  adding  B2'2  to  the  remainder.  Or,  multiply  the  Mohammedan  year 
by  2.977,  divide  the  result  bv  100.  subtract  the  quotient  from  the  Moham- 
medan year,  and  add  621.569.  On  Nov.  29th,  1913,  began  the  Moslem 
year  1332. 

The  Gregorian  calendar  was  introduced  into  Egypt  in  1875,  but  is 
observed  by  government  in  the  finance  department  only.  For  all  other 
purposes  the  Mohammedan  calendar  is  used,  and  the  dates  even  of  iixed 
festivals  cannot  easily  be  stated  according  to  the  European  computation 
of  time.  Calendars  reducing  the  Mohammedan  and  Coptic  reckoning  of 
time  to  the  European  system  may.  however,  be  obtained  at  any  bookseller's. 
The  Almanac  issued  yearly  by  the  Government  Publications  Office  in 
Cairo  may  be  recommended  (price  5  pias.);  it  contains  a  number  of  other 
useful   details. 

Keligious  Festivals.  The  first  month  of  the  Arabian  year  is  the 
MoHARREM,  the  first  ten  days  of  which  ('ashar),  and  particularly  the  10th 
(!/6))i  'as/iOra),  are  considered  holy.  On  these  days  alms  are  distributed 
and  amulets  purchased.  Mothers,  even  of  the  upper  classes,  carry  their 
children  on  their  shoulders,  or  cause  them  to  be  carried,  through  the 
streets,  and  sew  into  the  children's  caps  the  copper  coins  presented  to 
them  by  passers-by.  On  the  10th  Moharrem,  the  highly  revered  'AshHra 
day,  on  which  Adam  and  Eve  are  said  first  to  have  met  after  their  ex- 
pulsion from  Paradise,  on  which  Koah  is  said  to  have  left  the  ark,  and  on 
which  Hosein,  the  grandson  of  the  Prophet,  fell  as  a  martyr  to  his  religion 
at  the  battle  of  Kerbela,  the  Garni'  Seiyidna'l-Hosein  (p.  54)  is  visited 
about  8  p.m.  by  a  vast  concourse  of  noisy  religious  devotees.  Troops  of  Per- 
sians in  long  white  robes  parade  the  streets,  cutting  themselves  with  swords 
in  the  forehead  until  the  blood  streams  down  and  stains  their  snowy  gar- 
ments. Two  bovs,  representing  Hasan  and  Hosein,  are  led  throngh  tbe 
streets  on  horseback,  with  blood-stained  clothes. 

At  the  end  of  Safar,  the  second  month,  or  at  the  beginning  of  liahi' 
el-Auteil,  the  third,  the  Mecca  Caravan  (p.  Ixxxviiij  returns  home.  Its  approach 
is  heralded  by  outriders  and  some  enthusiasts  advance  three  days  to  meet  it. 
Detached  groups  of  pilgrims  occasionally  return  before  the  rest  of  the  caval- 
cade, and  their  arrival  is  always  signalized  by  the  blowing  of  trumpets  and 
beating  of  drums.  A  pyramidal  wooden  erection,  called  the  Afahmal,  hung 
with  beautifully  embroidered  stufl's,  and  carried  by  a  camel,  accompanies 
the  procession  as  a  symbol  of  royalty.  The  interior  of  the  Mahmal  is 
empty,  and  to  the  outside  of  it  are  attached  two  copies  of  the  Koran.  The 
procession  usually  enters  the  city  by  the  Bab  en-Nasr  (p.  77).  In  1V2-2  hrs. 
it  reaches  the  Place  Saladin  ip.  68),  the  large  open  space  in  front  of  the 
citadel,  from  which  last  twelve  cannon-shots  are  fired  as  a  salute.  The 
cortege  finally  enters  the  citadel  through  the  Bab  el-Wezir.  The  departure 
of  the  pilgrims  is  attended  with  similar  ceremonies  (comp.  p.  xcvil. 

The  great  festival  of  the  Mdlid  en-Nehi.  the  birthday  of  the  prophet, 
is  celebrated  at  the  beginning  of  RABf  el-Auwii,  the  third  month.  The 
preparations  for  it  begin  on  the  second  day  of  the  month,  and  the  most 
important   ceremonies    take   place   on    the  evening   of  the  eleventh.     The 


xoYi  in.  RELIGIOUS  FESTIVALS. 

city,  particularly  the  scene  of  the  festival,  at  'Abbasiyeh  (p.  78),  is  then 
illuminated  by  means  of  lamps  hung  on  wooden  stands  (kdim)  made  for 
the  purpose.  Processions  of  dervishes  (p.  xci)  parade  the  streets  with  flags 
by  day  and  with  lamps  by  night.  The  Ddseh,  or  ceremony  of  riding  over 
the  dervi.shes,  which  also  took  place  on  the  twelfth  of  this  month,  was 
suppressed  by  the  Khedive  Taufik,  and  the  ceremonies  are  now  confined 
to  the  sheikh's  walking  over  some  dervishes,  his  procession,  and  the  read- 
ing of  the  Koran  in  the  Khedive's  tent.  At  night  a  great  zikr  (p.  xci)  is 
performed  by  the  dervishes.  On  this  festival,  as  on  all  the  other  'mulids', 
the  jugglers,  buffoons,  shadow-players,  and  other  ministers  of  amusement 
(corap.  pp.  xxvi,  xxvii),  ply  their  calling  with  great  success. 

In  the  fourth  month,  that  of  R.\Bf  el-Akhir  (Rabf  et-Tdni),  occurs 
the  peculiarly  solemn  festival  of  the  birthday  or  Aliltid  of  Hosein,  the  pro- 
phet's grandson,  the  principal  scene  of  which  is  the  mosque  of  Hosein 
(p.  54).  This  festival  lasts  fifteen  days  and  fourteen  nights,  the  most  im- 
portant day  being  always  a  Tuesday  (y6m  et-taldt).  On  the  chief  days, 
and  on  their  eves,  the  Koran  is  read  aloud  to  the  people,  the  streets  ad- 
joining the  mosque  are  illuminated,  the  shops  are  kept  open,  and  story- 
tellers, jugglers,   and   others    of  the  same  class  attract  numerous  patrons. 

In  the  middle  of  Regeb,  the  seventh  month,  is  the  MUiid  of  Seiyideh 
Zeinab  ('Our  Lady  Zeinab'J,  the  granddaughter  of  the  prophet.  The  fes- 
tival, which  lasts  fourteen  days,  the  most  important  being  a  Tuesday,  is 
celebrated  at  tlie  mosque  of  the  Seiyideh  Zeinab  (p.  74).  —  On  the  27th  of 
th^s  month  is  the  Leilet  el-Mi'rdg,  or  night  of  the  ascension  of  the  prophet 
(p.  l.Kxxiv),  the  celebration  of  which  takes  place  outside  the  Bab  el-'Adawi, 
in  the  N.  suburb  of  Cairo. 

On  the  first,  or  sometimes  on  the  second,  Wednesday  of  Sha'ban,  the 
eighth  month,  the  AMiid  of  Jmdm  exh-Slidfi'%  is  commemorated,  the  centre 
of  attraction  being  the  mosque  men1i<ined  at  p.  115.  This  festival  is 
numerously  attended,  as  most  of  the  Cairenes  belong  to  the  school  of  Imam 
Shaft"'!  (p.  IxxxviJ. 

The  month  of  Eamadan,  the  ninth,  is  the  month  of  fasting,  which 
begins  as  soon  as  a  Moslem  declares  that  he  has  seen  the  new  moon. 
The  fast  is  strictly  observed  during  the  day,  but  the  faithful  indemnify 
themselves  by  eating,  drinking,  and  smoking  throughout  the  greater  part 
of  the  night.  At  dusk  the  streets  begin  to  be  thronged,  the  story-tellers  in 
the  cafe's  attract  numbers  of  visitors,  and  many  devotees  assemble  at  the 
mosques.  The  eve  of  the  27th  of  the  month  is  considered  peculiarly  holy. 
It  is  called  the  Leilet  el-Kadi\  or  'night  of  honour',  owing  to  the  tradition 
that  the  Koran  was  sent  down  to  Mohammed  on  this  night.  During  this 
sacred  night  the  angels  descend  to  mortals  with  blessings,  and  the  portals 
of  heaven  stand  open,  afTording  certain  admission  to  the  prayers  of  the 
devout. 

The  month  Eamadan  is  succeeded  by  that  of  Shauwal,  on  the  first  three 
days  of  which  is  celebrated  the  first  and  minor  festival  of  rejoicing,  called 
by  the  Arabs  El-'td  es-Sughaiyav  (the  lesser  feast),  but  better  known  by  its 
Turkish  name  of  Beirmn  (Bairam).  The  object  of  the  festival  is  to  give 
expression  to  the  general  rejoicing  at  the  termination  of  the  fast;  and 
as  at  our  Christmas,  parents  give  presents  to  their  children,  and  masters 
to  their  servants  at  this  festive  season.  Friends  embrace  each  other  on 
meeting,  and  visits  of  ceremony  are  exchanged.  During  this  festival  the 
Khedive  receives  his  principal  officials,  ambassadors,  etc. 

At  this  season  the  traveller  may  also  pay  a  visit  to  the  cemetery  by 
the  Bab  en-Na.sr,  or  to  one  of  the  others,  where  numerous  Cairenes  assemble. 

A  few  days  after  the  Bairam ,  the  pieces  of  the  Kisweh,  or  covering 
manufactured  at  Constantinople,  at  the  cost  of  the  Sultan,  for  the  Kaaba 
(p.  Ixxxiv),  whither  it  is  annually  carried  by  the  pilgrims,  are  conveyed 
in  procession  to  the  citadel,  where  they  are  sewn  together  and  lined. 
The  ceremonies  which  take  place  on  this  occasion  are  repeated  on  a 
grander  scale  towards  the  end  of  the  month  of  Shautodl  (generally  the  23rdj, 
when  there  is  a  gay  procession  of  the  escort  which  accompanies  the  pil- 
grimage caravan  to  Mecca  and  also  takes  charge  of  the  Mahmal  (p.  xcv). 


m.   POPULAR  FESTIVALS.  xcvi 

On  this  occasion  every  true  believer  in  the  prophet,  if  he  possibly  can 
spends  Ibe  whole  day  in  the  streets.  The  women  don  their  smartest  attire 
Many  of  the  harem  windows  are  opened  and  the  veiled  inmates  gaze  into 
the  streets.  The  chief  scene  of  the  ceremonies  is  the  Place  Saladin  (p.  68l: 
where  a  sumptuous  tent  of  red  velvet  and  gold  is  pitched  for  the  reception 
of  the  dignitaries.  The  procession  is  headed  by  soldiers,  who  are  followed 
by  camels  adorned  with  gaily  coloured  trappings  and  bearing  on  their 
humps  bunches  of  palm-branches  with  oranges  attached.  Each  section  of 
the  cavalcade  is  preceded  by  a  band  of  Arab  musicians,  the  largest  section 
being  that  which  accompanies  the  Takhiarawdn,  or  litter  of  the  Emir  el- 
Hagg,  and  the  next  in  order  that  of  the  Deiil  el-IJagg,  or  leader  of  the 
pilgrims,  with  his  attendants.  Next  follow  various  detachments  of  pilgrims 
and  dervishes  with  banners,  and  lastly  the  Slahmal. 

On  the,  10th  of  Dhdl-Higgkh,  the  twelfth  month,  begins  the  great  fes- 
tival of  £■;-'/(/  el-Kebir  (Kurbdn  Beiram),  which  resembles  the  lesser  feast 
(el-'id  es-sughaiyar)  already  mentioned.  On  this  day,  if  on  no  other 
throughout  the  year,  every  faithful  Moslem  eats  a  piece  of  meat  in  memory 
of  the  sacrifice  of  Abraham,  and  the  poor  are  presented  with  meat  by 
the  rich. 

With  the  Rising  of  the  Nile  also  there  are  connected  several  inter- 
esting festivals,  closely  resembling  those  of  the  ancient  period  of  the 
Pharaohs,  which  even  the  Christian  epoch  was  unable  entirely  to  ob- 
literate. As,  however,  they  take  place  in  summer,  few  travellers  will 
have  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  them.  As  these  festivals  have  refer- 
ence to  a  regularly  recurring  phenomenon  of  nature,  their  dates  are  ne- 
cessarily fixed  in  accordance  with  the  Coptic  solar  reckoning  of  time,  in- 
stead of  the  variable  Arabian  lunar  year.  —  The  night  of  the  11th  of  the 
Coptic  month  Bauna  (Juno  17tU)  is  called  Leilet  en-Nukta^  i.e.  the  'night 
of  the  drop',  as  it  is  believed  that  a  drop  from  heaven  (or  a  tear  of  Isis, 
according  to  the  ancient  Egyptian  myth)  falls  into  the  Nile  on  this  night 
and  causes  its  rise.  The  astrologers  profess  to  calculate  precisely  the 
hour  o  the  fall  of  the  sacred  drop.  The  Cairenes  spend  this  night  on 
the  banjks  of  the  Nile,  either  in  the  open  air  or  in  the  houses  of  friends 
near  the  river,  and  practise  all  kinds  of  superstitious  customs.  One  of 
these  consists  in  the  placing  of  a  piece  of  dough  by  each  member  of  a 
family  on  the  roof  of  the  house ;  if  the  dough  rises,  happiness  is  in  store 
for  the  person  who  placed  it  there,  while  its  failure  to  rise  is  regarded  as 
a  bad  omen.  On  the  21st  of  June  the  river  begins  slowly  to  rise.  On  the 
'27th  of  the  Coptic  month  Bauna  (July  3rd)  the  Munddi  en-Nil^  or  Nile- 
criers  are  frequently  heard  in  the  morning,  announcing  to  the  citizens  the 
number  of  inches  that  the  river  has  risen.  Each  munadi  is  accompanied 
by  a  boy,  with  whom  he  enters  on  a  long  religious  dialogue  by  way  of 
preface  to  his  statements,  which,  however,  are  generally  inaccurate.  The 
next  important  day  is  the  Day  of  the-  Cutting  of  the  Dam  (y6vi  gebr  el-baki\  or 
>/6m  wefa  el-bahv),  about  the  middle  of  the  Coptic  month  of  Slisra  (i.e.  the 
middle  of  August),  when  the  principal  ceremonies  are  performed  to  the  N. 
of  the  former  Fumm  el-Khalig  (p.  lOi).  The  Nile-crier,  attended  by  boys 
carrying  flags,  announces  the  Wefa  en-Nil  (i.e.  superfluity  of  the  Nile),  or 
period  when  the  water  has  reached  its  normal  height  of  about  sixteen  ells 
(p.  105).  The  actual  cutting  through  of  the  dam  can  no  longer  take  place, 
but  the  festivities  go  on  as  before. 


Bakj>kkkk'«  Egypt.    7th  Edit. 


IV.  Outline  of  the  History  of  Egypt. 
I.  Ancient  History. 

By  Professor  O.  Steindorff. 
a.  From  the  Earliest  Times  to  the  Macedonian  Conquest  in  332  B.C. 

Exact  systems  of  clironology  were  as  little  known  to  the  ancient 
Egyptians  as  to  the  other  peoples  of  antiquity.  The  events  they 
desired  to  record  were  dated  according  to  the  years  of  the  king 
reigning  at  the  time.  To  determine  at  what  period  a  particular  king 
had  reigned,  the  priests  drew  iip  long  lists  of  monarchs,  fragments 
of  which  have  survived  to  the  present  day  (comp.  pp.  87,  241,  275^. 
The  chronological  epitomes,  moreover,  which  are  all  that  has  been 
transmitted  to  us  of  the  'Egyptian  History'  written  in  Greek  hy  the 
priest  Manethot,  were  founded  .on  these  native  registers.  Manetho 
arranged  all  the  rulers  of  Egypt,  from  Menes,  the  first  king,  to 
Alexander  the  Great,  in  31  Dynasties,  which  correspond,  generally 
speaking,  to  the  various  royal  houses  that  held  sway  in  Egypt  suc- 
cessively or  (at  certain  periods)  contemporaneously.  This  arrange- 
ment has  been  generally  adopted  by  writers  on  the  subject ;  but  at 
the  same  time,  for  the  sake  of  convenience,  several  dynasties  are 
frequently  grouped  together  under  the  name  of  a  'period',  'empire',  or 
'kingdom'.  It  is  impossible  to  assign  anything  like  exact  dates  for 
the  kings  before  Psammetichos  I.  The  dates,  therefore,  in  the 
following  outline  are  given  as  approximate  merely,  and  in  the 
earliest  period  may  sometimes  be  even  a  century  or  more  out. 

1.  Prehistoric  Period  (before  3400  B.C.). 
The  dark  prehistoric  period,  which  later  traditions  fill  up  with 
dynasties  of  gods  and  demigods,  is  illumined  by  a  few  scattered 
rays  of  light  only.  It  may  be  taken  as  certain  that  the  country 
did  not  originally  form  one  single  kingdom,  but  was  divided  into 
two  states  —  the  'Northern',  corresponding  to  the  Delta,  and  the 
'Southern',  stretching  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Memphis  (Cairo)  to 
the  Gebel  Silsileh,  and  afterwards  to  the  First  Cataract.  Each  of 
these  states  was  subdivided  into  a  number  of  small  principalities, 
originally  independent  but  afterwards  dependent,  which  still  existed 
in  historic  times  as  'nomes'  or  provinces.  The  two  Egyptian  king- 
doms were  for  a  time  hostile  to  each  other.  Their  final  union  seems 
to  have  been  operated  from  Upper  Egypt  by  King  Menes,  just  how 
is  unknown.  The  memory  of  the  division  subsisted  beyond  the 
dawn  of  the  historic  period;  the  arms  of  the  united  empire  were 
formed  by  the  union  of  the  lily  and  the  papyrus,   the  symbolical 


t  Manetho  of  Sebennytos  (p.  174)  flourished  in  the  reigns  of  Ptolemy  I. 
and  Ptolemy  II.  He  was  probably  a  priest  at  Heliopolis  and  wrote  Ms 
three  books  of  AlYuitTioxa  'Tito(xv/fj.aTO  in  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  II. 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY.  xcix 

plants  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt ;  the  king  styled  himself 'King 
of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt'  or  'Lord  of  both  Lands',  and  woTe  the 

double  tiara  [  zjT  J  consisting  of  the  white  nrown    (  /_/  )  of  the  S. 

and  the  red  crown  (  \j  j  of  the  N.;  and  at  the  base  of  the  temple- 
walls  were  represented  on  one  side  the  provinces  of  the  S.,  and  on 
the  other  the  provinces  of  the  N.  Even  in  matters  of  administration 
respect  was  paid  to  this  distinction,  which  was  further  emphasized 
by  the  physical  differences  of  the  two  regions.  The  introduction  of 
the  Egyptian  calendar  also  belongs  to  the  primaeval  period  and  be- 
gins with  July  19th,  4241. 


2.  Earliest  Period  of  the  Kings  (ca.  3400-2980  B.C.). 
I.  and  II.  DYNASTIES f. 
probably  originating  at  This  (p.  221)  in  Upper  Egypt. 
Menes  (Meny)  united  Egypt  about  3400  B.C.  and  founded  the  so- 
called  'White  Walls",    a  fortified  city  on  the  site  afterwards  oc- 
cupied by  Memphis  (p.  143).   Ilis  tomb  is  believed  to  be  at 
Nakadeh  (p.  224\  —  The  tombs  of  his  successors  have  been 
discovered  at  Abydos  (p.  243). 

3.  The  Ancient  Empire  (ca.  2980-2475  B.C.I. 
III.  DYNASTY  (2980-2900  B.C.). 
This  dynasty  originated  at  Memphis,  where  their  tombs  also  are 
situated.    The  most  ancient  mastabas  date  from  this  period. 
Zoser,  builder  of  the  Step  Pyramid  at  Sakkara  (p.  146). 

rv.  DYNASTY  (ca.  2900-2750  B.C.). 

An  epoch  of  powerful  monarchs,  who  built  the  great  pyramids. 
Snofru,  builder  of  the  Pyramid  of  Meidum  [p.  205)  and  of  the  great 

pyramid  at  Dahshur  (p.  166). 
Kheops  or  Cheops  fKlmfu),  builder  of  the  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh 

ip.  127;). 

Tetf-re,  builder  of  the  Pyramid  of  Abu  Roash  (p.  139). 
Khephren   (h'hefre),    builder   of  the    Second   Pyramid  of  Gizeli 

(p.  131). 
Mencheres  or  Mykerinos  (Menkewre).  builder  of  the  Third  Pyramid 

of  Gizeh  (p.  183). 


T  Only  the  most  important  kings  of  each  dynasty  are  menlioned. 
Dynasties  given  in  full  are  prefixed  by  an  asterisk.  —  The  names  of  Ihi; 
kings  are  here  usually  given  in  the  Greek  form,  with  the  Egyptian  fonn 
in  bracket.'). 

g* 


c  IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 

V.  DYNASTY  (2750-2625  B.C.). 
Egypt  now  reached  the  zenith  of  her  civilization  ;  art,  in  partic- 
ular, attained  a  perfection  never  again  reached.    The  pyramids  of 
the  kings  are  mostly  near  Ahusir  (p.  141),  where  special  sanctuaries 
were  built  also  for  the  sun-god  Re. 

Nuserre  built  the  sanctuary  of  Abu  Gurab  (p.  140)  and  the  pyr- 
amid and  mortuary  temple  at  Abusir  (p.  141). 
Sehure,  whose  pyramid  and  mortuary  temple  are  at  Abusir  (p.  141), 

carried  on  wars  against  the  Libyans  and  Asiatics. 
Onnos  (Unis),  the  last  king  of  the  5th  Dyn.,  built  his  pyramid  near 
Sakkara  (p.  165).    After  his  death  internal  dissensions  seem  to 
have  broken  out,  resulting  in  the  accession  of  a  new  dynasty. 

VI.  DYNASTY  (ca.  2625-2475  B.C.). 

Under  this  dynasty  the  power  of  the  kings  was  more  limited, 
and  the  small  principalities  recovered  some  of  their  independence. 
Far-reaching  commercial  relations  were  entered  into  with  the  Upper 
Nile,  Punt  (the  S.  coast  of  the  Red  Sea),  Syria,  etc. 
Othoes  (Teti)  | 

Phiops  I.  (Meri-re  Pepi  I.)  I     Builders  of  pyramids  at 

Merenre  Ment-em-sof  (Methusuphls)        I     Sakkara  (pp.  163,  166). 
Phiops  II.  (Nefer-ke-re  Pepi  II.)  ] 

Towards  the  end  of  the  6th  Dyn.  the  monarchy  fell  and  civil 
strife  broke  out.  While  the  successors  of  the  6th  Dyn.  (  VIII.  Dynasty) 
may  have  maintained  themselves  at  Memphis,  a  new  race  of  in- 
dependent kings  established  themselves  at  Heracleopolis  (IX. 
^  X.  Dynasties)  and  for  a  time  ruled  the  whole  of  Egypt,  On  the 
other  hand  the  chief  power  in  the  S.  was  seized  by  Thetan  princes 
(XI.  Dynasty )j  most  of  whom  were  named  Mentuhotep.  The  mortu- 
ary temple  of  two  of  these  has  been  found  at  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  304). 
Dependent  on  these  sovereigns  were  the  Theban  sub-kings  named 
Entef  (Enyotef),  whose  small  tombs  lay  near  Drah  Abu'l  Negga 
(p.  283).  The  Mentuhoteps  finally  overthrew  the  kings  of  Heracleo- 
polis and  gradually  succeeded  in  reuniting  the  whole  country.  The 
first  niler  over  reunited  Egypt  was  Amenemhet  /.,  with  whom  begins  — 

4.  The  Middle  Empire  (2000-1680  B.C.). 
*XII.  DYNASTY  (2000-1788  B.C.). 

This  was  Egypt's  most  prosperous  period,  and  an  epoch  of  great 
buildings.  There  is  hardly  a  considerable  town  in  Egypt  without  some 
traces  of  the  building  activity  of  the  kings  of  this  dynasty.  Literature 
and  art  flourished.  The  kingdom  was  organized  as  a  feudal  state. 
Amenemhet  I.  restored  peace ;  his  tomb  is  the  northern  pyramid  at 

Lisht  (p.  205). 
SMOBtjitl.(SemeosretI.)  conquered  Nubia  ;  Ms  tomb  is  the  southern 

pyramid  at  Lisht  (p.  205). 


IV.   ANCJENT  HISTOKY.  ci 

Amenemhet  n. ;  his  tomb  is  at  DahshAr  (p.  167). 
SesostriB  n.,  bnilder  of  the  pyramid  of  Illahnn  (p.  195). 
Sesostris  HI.  (the  famous  Sesostris  of  the  Greeks)  consolidates  the 

sovereignty  over  Nabia.    Pyramid  at  Dahshdr  (p.  166). 
Amenemhet  m.,  builder  of  the  pyramid  and  great  temple  (so-callel 

Labyrinth")  at  Hawara  (p.  194). 
Amenemhet  IV. 
Sebek-nofrn,  a  queen. 

XIII.-XVI.  DYNASTIES  (1788-1580  B.C.). 

The  monarchs  of  the  13th  Dynasty,  mostly  named  Sebek-hotep, 
maintained  the  power  of  Egypt  for  some  time,  but  a  period  of  de- 
cline afterwards  set  in.  There  is  no  period  of  Egyptian  history  at 
which  kings  were  more  numerous,  most  of  them  reigning  but  a 
short  time.  The  South  was  probably  ruled  by  the  descendants  of  the 
ancient  Theban  kings,  while  in  the  town  of  Xois,  in  the  W.  Delta, 
another  family  raised  themselves  to  power  (14th  Dynasty). 

About  this  time  (ca.  1680  B.C.)  Egypt  was  conquered  by  a 
Semitic  people,  known  as  Hyksos,  i.e.  'Shepherd  Kings'  (15th  ^-  16th 
Dynasties),  who  were  doubtless  Syrian  Beduins.  Few  of  their  monu- 
ments have  been  preserved;  but  it  is  evident  that  they  conformed 
to  the  ancient  culture  of  Egypt.  While  the  Hyksos  were  established 
in  the  N.  part  of  the  land,  the  S.  was  ruled  by  Theban  princes,  who 
were  at  first  vassals  of  the  foreign  intruders.  The  tombs  of  these 
princes,  among  whom  were  Sekenyenre  III.  and  Kemose,  lay  near 
Drah  Abu'l  Negga  (p.  283). 

Sekenyenre  III.,  whose  mummy  was  found  at  Deir  el-Bahri  {jp.  97). 
Kemose.  His  queen  was  perhaps  Ahhotep,  whose  jewels  are  now  in 

the  Cairo  Museum  (p.  98). 

5.  The  New  Empire  (1580-1090  B.C.). 
Egypt  became  a  great  power  during  this  period.  At  first  the  culture 
of  the  New  Empire  difl'ered  little  from  that  of  the  Middle  Empire,  but 
under  Thutmosis  III.  political  and  social  life  as  well  as  the  art  of  Egypt 
underwent  a  radical  change,  owing  to  the  new  relations  with  W.  Asia. 
The  tribnte  paid  by  foreign  states  caused  an  enormous  flood  of  wealth 
to  pour  into  Egypt,  and  especially  into  Thebes,  the  capital.  The  earlier 
buildings,  that  had  fallen  into  disrepair,  were  now  replaced  by  imposing 
monuments,  auch  as  the  temples  at  Karnak,  Lu.vor,  etc. 

XVII.  DYNASTY  (ca.  15S0-1540  B.C.). 

Amosis  (^Ahmose,  1580-1557  B.C.),  perhaps  the  son  of  Kemose,  con- 
quered Anaris,  the  chief  fortress  of  the  Hyksos,  and  expelled 
the  intruders  from  Egypt,  which  was  reunited  under  one  sceptre. 
The  Biblical  story  of  the  Exodus  may  possibly  relate  to  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Hyksos.  * 

AmenophiB  I.  (^Amenhotep,  1557-ca.  1540  B.C.).  This  king  and  his 
mother  Nefret-ere  were  afterwards  regarded  as  the  patron-gods  of 
the  Necropolis  of  Thebes. 


cii  IV.   ANCIENT  HISTORY. 

"XVIII.  DYNASTY  (1540-1315  B.C.). 

Thutmosis  I.  [Thutmose,  1540-1501  B.C.).  His  tomb  at  Bibau  el- 
Muluk  (p.  "297)  was  the  first  royal  rock-tomb  of  the  Pharaohs. 
During  his  lifetime  his  children  fought  for  the  succession. 

Eemare-Hatshepsat,  queen  and  builder  of  the  ^ 

temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  fp.  299).   Her  tomb  .        ,    ,^ 

isatBibanel-Muluk'(p.296).  reigned  alter- 

Thutmosis  II.  "**^'y- 

Thutmosis  UI.  (1601-1447  B.C.).  J 

After  the  death  of  his  sister  and  brother  — 

Thutmosis  III.  reigned  alone.  He  was  one  of  the  most  notable 
Egyptian  kings,  conquered  Syria,  and  established  the  influence 
of  Egypt  in  "W.  Asia.  His  rock-tomb  is  at  Biban  el-Muluk 
(p.  296). 

AmenophisII.  (Amenhotep ;  1447-1420  B.C.);  rock-tomb  at  Biban 
el-Muluk  (p.  297). 

Thutmosis  IV.  (1420-1411  B.C.)  excavated  the  Sphinx  at  Gizeh 
(comp.  p.  135).    Tomb  at  Biban  el-Muliik  (p,  298). 

Amenophis  III.  (1411-1376  B.C.;  called  Memnon  by  the  Greeks), 
whose  wife  was  named  Teye,  maintained  intercourse  with  the 
kings  of  Babylon,  Assyria,  Mitani  (on  the  upper  Euphrates),  etc. 
(see  cuneiform  tablets  from  Tell  el-'Amarna,  p.  212),  and  built 
temples  in  Nubia,  Luxor,  Medinet  Habu  (Colossi  of  Memnon, 
p.  330),  and  elsewhere.  His  tomb  and  that  of  his  wife  are  both 
at  Bibin  el-Muluk  (p.  298). 

Amenophis  IV.  (1376-1358  B.C.)  endeavoured  to  replace  the  old 
religion  by  the  worship  of  a  single  deity,  viz.  the  sun,  an 
attempt  perhaps  to  provide  a  god  that  should  be  worshipped  in 
common  by  all  the  peoples  of  the  extensive  empire  (p.  cxlvl).  The 
movement  was  probably  instigated  by  the  priests  of  Heliopolis 
and  was  directed  at  first  only  against  the  gods  of  Thebes,  who, 
during  the  New  Empire,  had  thrown  all  others  into  the  shade. 
Many  of  the  ancient  deities,  especially  those  of  Thebes,  were 
fanatically  'persecuted',  their  images  and  names  being  removed 
fiom  all  monuments.  For  his  own  original  name,  in  which  the 
name  of  Amon  occurs,  the  king  substituted  that  of  Ekh-en-Aton, 
'the  disk  of  the  sun  rejoices'.  Tell  el-'Araarna  (p.  211)  was 
made  the  capital  instead  of  Thebes.  AmeuophisI  V.  was  buried  at 
Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  298).  After  his  death  internal  commotions 
broke  out  and  the  new  religion  was  abolished. 

Among  his  successors  (1358-1350  B.C.)  were  Eye  (tombs  at  Tell 
el-'Amarna,  p.  216,  and  at  Biban  el-Muluk,  p.  298)  and  Tut- 
enkh-Aman,  who  transferred  the  royal  residence  back  to  Thebes. 

Haremheb  (Harmdis;  1350-1315  B.C.)  restored  peace  and  founded 
the  19th  Dynasty.    Tomb  at  Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  298). 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


'XIX.  DYNASTY  (1315-1200  B.C.). 

Hamaes  I.  (Ramesse)  bad  a  short  reign.  His  tomb  is  at  Bibau  el- 
Mulflk  (p.  291). 

Sethosl.  (Sethy  I.)  fought  against  the  Libyans,  the  Syrians,  and  the 
Hittites(Kheta),  a  powerful  people  that  under  the  18th  Dyn.  had 
penetrated  from  Asia  Minor  into  N.  Syria  and  threatened  the 
Egyptian  possessions  in  Syria  and  Palestine.  Sethos  built  large 
temples  at  Karnak,  Kurna,  and  Abydos.  His  tomb  is  at  Biban 
el-Muluk  fp.  292),  his  mummy  at  Cairo  (p.  96). 

Ramses  11.  (Ramesse,  ca.  1292-1225  B.C.),  the  most  celebrated  of 
all  Egyptian  kings.  He  waged  tedious  wars  against  the  Hittites 
(battle  of  Kadesh,  p.  307),  finally  making  a  peace  with  them  in 
the  21st  year  of  his  reign  (p.  272),  which  left  Palestine  proper 
in  the  possession  of  the  Egyptians,  while  N.  Syria  was  acknow- 
ledged to  be  tributary  to  the  Hittites.  Kamses  developed  an 
extraordinary  building  activity  in  the  course  of  his  reign  of 
67  years.  Perhaps  one-half  of  all  the  extant  temples  date  from 
this  reign ;  and  the  name  of  Ramses  is  found  in  nearly  every 
group  of  ruins  in  Egypt.  His  largest  temples  were  those  of  Abu 
Simbel(p.404),  Karnak  (p.  265),  Luxor  (p.  257),  theRamesseum 
(p.  306) ,  Abydos  (p.  243) ,  Memphis  (p.  1U\  and  Bubastis 
(p.  171).  His  tomb  is  at  Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  287),  his  mummy 
at  Cairo  (p.  96).  Ramses  H.  is  frequently  identified,  but  probably 
erroneously,  with  the  'Pharaoh  of  the  Oppression'  (Exod.  i.  11). 
Of  his  numerous  sons  only  one  survived  him,  viz.  — 

Amenephthes  (Merenptah),  who  carried  on  campaigns  against  the 
Libyans  and  their  allies  (comp.  p.  86),  the  peoples  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. His  mortuary  temple  is  at  Thebes  (p.  309),  his  grave 
at  Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  287),  and  his  mummy  at  Cairo  (p!  96). 

Amen-mesesl  are  all  buried  at  Biban  el-Muluk  (pp.  289,  298, 

Siptah  I  291).   Their  short  reigns  were  followed  by  a  period 

Sethos  II.        j  of  anarchy.    Decline  of  the  kingdom. 

•XX.  DYNASTY  (1200-1090  B.C.). 

Seth-nakht  succeeded  in  restoring  peace. 

Ramses  III.  (^Ramesse,  1200-1179  B.C.)  conquered  the  Libyans  and 
in  two  great  battles  repelled  an  invasion  of  barbarians  who  ap- 
proached from  Asia  Minor  by  land  and  by  water,  threatening 
Egypt.  His  rei.sn  of  21  years  was  thereafter  an  epoch  of  peace 
and  quiet,  in  which  several  large  buildings  (e.g.  the  temple  at 
Medinet  Habu,  p.  323)  were  erected.  The  king  presented  great 
gifts  to  the  gods,  especially  to  the  Theban  Amon,  who  had 
been  richly  endowed  by  former  kings, also.  The  high-priest  of 
Amon  gradually  became  the  greatest  power  in  the  state.  The 
king's  tomb  is  at  Biban  el-Mulfik  (p.  289),  his  mammy  at  Cairo 
(p.  96).    His  successors  — 


civ  IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 

Ramses  IV. -Ramses  XII.  gradnally  fell  more  aud  more  under  the 
control  of  the  priests  of  Amon.  Their  tomhs  are  at  Biban  el- 
Muluk  (pp.  286  et  seq.). 

6.  Period  of  Foreign  Domination  (1090-663  B.C.). 
XXI.  DYNASTY  (TAKITES;  1090  946  B.C.). 
Heribor,  high-priest  of  Amon,  occupied  the  throne  for  a  short  time 
after  the  death  of  Ramses  XII. 

The  empire  now  fell  to  pieces.  At  Tanis  a  new  dynasty  arose 
(Psusennes,  Amenemopet),  which  contested  the  rule  of  the  high-priests 
at  Thebes.  Pinotem  I.,  a  Theban  priest-king,  became  king  of  all 
Egypt  through  marriage  alliances  with  the  Tanite  dynasty,  while  his 
sons  obtained  the  influential  and  lucrative  djgnity  of  high-priests 
of  Thebes.  Nubia  recovered  its  independence;  and  the  Egyptian 
dominion  in  Palestine  terminated. 

XXII.  DYNASTY  (945-745  B.C.). 
The  kings  of  this  dynasty  were  of  Libyan  origin.  Their  ancestors, 
like  the  Mamelukes  of  later  days,  had  come  to  Egypt  as  the  leaders 
of  mercenary  troops.  Settling  in  the  E.  Delta,  they  grew  in  power 
as  that  of  the  monarchy  declined.  The  royal  residence  under  this 
dynasty  was  Bubastis  (p.  171)  ;  Thebes  steadily  declined  in  import- 
ance. Royal  princes  assumed  the  office  of  high-priests  of  Amon. 

Sboshenk I.  {Sesonchis;  iheShishak  of  the  Bible)  overthrew  the  Tan- 
ites.  In  the  5th  year  of  Rehoboam  of  Judah  he  captured  Jerusa- 
lem and  plundered  the  Temple  of  Solomon  (ca.  930  B.C.).    For 
his  monument  of  victory,  see  p.  272. 
Under  his  successors  (^Osorkon,  Takelothia,  Shoshenk,  etc.)  the 

throiTe  once  more  lost  power,  and  the  country  was  subdivided  into 

small  independent  principalities.    Among  these  are  reckoned  the 

members  of  the  — 

XXIII.  DYNASTY  (745-718  B.C.), 
who  reigned  in  Tanis,  but  of  whom  we  know  little.  The 
kings  of  Ethiopia,  whose  capital  was  Napata  (p,  419),  made 
themselves  masters  of  Upper  Egypt. 
B.C.  730.  Tefnakhte,  Prince  of  Sa'is  and  Memphis,  attempted  to  seize 
the  sovereignty  of  Lower  Egypt,  but  was  defeated  by 
Piankhi,  King  of  Ethiopia,  who  captured  Memphis.  (For 
Piankhi's  monument  of  victory,  see  p.  88.) 

'XXIV.  DYNASTY. 
Bocchoris  (Bektnranf),  son  and  successor  of  Tefnakhte,  se- 
cured the  sovereignty  of  Lower  Egypt,  while  Upper  Egypt 
remained  subject  to  the  Ethiopians.  Sahdkon  of  Ethiopia, 
son  of  Kashta ,  overthrew  Bocchoris  and  burned  him  to 
death.    All  Egypt  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Ethiopians. 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


712-700. 


700-688. 
688-663. 


663. 


•XXV.  DYNASTY  (ETHIOPUNS;  712-663  B.C.). 

Shabako  (Sabakon)  assisted  the  smaller  Syrian  states  (^llez- 
ekiah  of  Judali)  against  the  Assyrians. 

Sebichos  (Shabataka). 

Taharka  (the  2'irhakah  of  the  Bible)  also  assisted  the  princes 
of  Syria  and  Palestine  against  thB  Assyrians ,  but  was 
defeated  in  670  by  Esarhaddon,  King  of  Assyria,  and  after 
the  capture  of  Memphis  compelled  to  take  refuge  in  Ethio- 
pia. Both  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt  became  subject  to  the 
Assyrians,  the  various  local  princes  (such  as  Necho  of 
Sais,  etc.)  becoming  vassals  of  the  invaders.  Various  at- 
tempts to  expel  the  latter  failed. 

Tanutamun,  son  of  Shabako,  succeeded  in  recovering  Egypt 
for  a  brief  period,  but  was  finally  defeated  by  the  Assyr- 
ians and  driven  back  into  Upper  Egypt. 

The  Assyrian  rule  in  Egypt  was,  however,  approaching  its 
end.  The  absence  of  the  main  Assyrian  forces,  which  were 
engaged  in  distant  wars  in  Babylon  and  Elam,  afforded 
an  opportunity  of  shaking  off  the  yoke,  which  was  seized 
\>y  Psammetichos  of  Sais,  son  of  Necho  (see  above),  with  the 
help  of  Gyges,  King  of  Lydia.  The  foreign  garrisons  were 
expelled;  the  authority  of  the  small  native  princes  was 
gradually  curbed;  and  Egypt  was  again  united.  Since  then 
Ethiopia  has  been  separate  from  Egypt. 


7.  Late-Egyptian  Period  (663-332  B.C.). 
•XXVI.  DYNASTY  (663-525  B.C.). 
Egypt  now  enjoyed  another  period  of  prosperity.  Trade  began  to 
flourish  owing  to  the  new  relations  with  Greece.  Art  also  received 
a  fresh  impetus;  even  before  the  Ethiopian  kings  artists  had  begun 
to  imitate  the  models  of  the  classic  period  of  Egyptian  art  under 
the  Ancient  Empire.  This  reversion  to  an  earlier  era  appeared  also 
in  other  departments,  such  as  literature,  the  spelling  of  inscriptions, 
and  even  the  titles  of  officials,  so  that  the  period  of  the  '26th  Dyn. 
may  be  styled  the  Egyptian  Renaissance. 

663-609.    Psammetichos  I.  (Psametik),  see  above. 

009-593.  Necho  (Ntkaw).  While  the  Assyrians  were  engrossed  in  a 
deadly  contest  with  the  Babylonians  and  Medes  Necho 
invaded  Syria,  defeating  and  slaying  Josiah,  King  of 
.Tudah,  at  the  battle  of  Megiddo.  The  Egyptians  were, 
however,  defeated  atCarchemish  by  Nebuchadnezzar,  King 
of  Babylon,  and  thus  lost  their  possessions  in  Syria  and 
Palestine.  —  Necho  began  to  construct  a  canal  from  the  Nile 
to  the  Red  Sea,  but  was  stopped  by  an  oracle  (p.  182). 

593-5^.    Psammetichos  II.  warrcil  against  Ethiopia. 


cvl 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


Apries  or  Uaphris  IWeh-eb-re ;  the  Hophrah  of  the  Bible) 
made  another  attempt  to  recover  Syria,  but  was  unable  to 
prevent  the  capture  of  Jerusalem  by  Nebuchadnezzar  in 
586.  A  military  rebellion  in  Libya  dethroned  Apries,  and 
his  general  Amasis  was  proclaimed  king. 

Amasis  (Ahmose)  secured  his  supremacy  by  marriage  with 
a  daughter  of  Psammetichos  II.  A  campaign  undertaken 
by  Nebuchadnezzar  against  Egypt  led  to  the  final  aban- 
donment of  the  Egyptian  claims  upon  Syria.  Amasis  as- 
signed the  city  of  Naucratis  (p.  32)  to  Greek  colonists, 
who  speedily  made  it  the  most  important  commercial  town 
in  the  empire.  A  friendly  alliance  was  made  with  Poly- 
crates,  tyrant  of  Samos. 

Psammetichos  III.  was  defeated  at  Pelusium  by  the  Persian 
king  Cambyses,  and  Egypt  became  a  Persian  province. 

*XXVII.  DYNASTY.   PERSIAN  DOMINATION. 

The  Persian  monarchs  appeared  as  successors  to  the  native 
rulers  and  by  their  moderation  found  favour  with  the  greater 
part  of  the  population.     The  old  religion  was  unmolested. 

Cambyses  led  an  unsuccessful  expedition,  via  Khargeh, 
against  the  oases  of  the  Libyan  Desert  and  a  campaign 
against  Ethiopia. 

Darius  I.  endeavoured  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  Egypt 
in  every  possible  way.  The  canal  from  the  Nile  to  the 
Red  Sea  was  completed  (p.  182).  A  strong  garrison  was 
sent  to  the  oasis  of  Khargeh  and  a  temple  was  built  there 
to  Amou  (p.  381).  After  the  battle  of  Marathon  the 
Egyptians,  he^Aei 'hy  Khabbash^  revolted  and  expelled  the 
Persians.    The  insurrection ,  however,  was  quelled  by  — 

Xerxes  I.,  who  appointed  his  brother  Achsmenes  satrap. 

Artaxerxesl.  During  his  reign  the  Egyptians  again  revolted. 
Inaros  (Ert  -  Har  -  erow)^  prince  of  Marea,  aided  by  the 
Athenians,  defeated  Achjemenes,  the  Persian  satrap,  but 
the  allied  Egyptians  and  Greeks  were  in  turn  defeated  by 
the  Persian  general  Megabyzos  near  Prosopitis,  an  island 
in  the  Nile,  and  Inaros  was  crucified. 

Herodotus  visited  Egypt. 

Darius  II.  The  Persian  power  gradually  declined.   Under  — 

Artaxerxes  II.  and  his  successor  — 

Artaxerxes  III.  the  Egyptians  once  more  revolted  and  suc- 
ceeded in  regaining  their  independence  for  a  brief  period 
under  native  rulers,  whom  Manetho  assigns  to  the  28- 
30th  Dynasties. 

♦XXVIII.  DYNASTY. 
Amyrtseos  of  Sais  maintained  his  authority  for  a  short  time  only. 
In  Lower  Egypt  several  dynasties  contended  for  sovereignty. 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


*XXIX.  DYNASTY  (398-379  B.C.). 
This  dynasty    came    from   Mendes   and  relied    for  support 

chiefly  upon  Greek  mercenaries. 
Nepherites  (Nefarit). 
Achoris  (HakorJ. 
Psamuthis  (Pshe-Mut). 

-XXX.  DYNASTY  (378-341  B.C.). 

Nektauebes  ( Nekht-Har-ehbet),  of  Sebennytos,  built  a  temple 
0  f  1  sis  at  Belibit  el-Hagar  (p.  174 ),  a  gate  at  Karnak  (p.  277), 
and  a  colonnade  in  the  oasis  of  Khargeh  (p.  381). 

Tachos  (Teltor)  was  dethroned,  and  died  at  the  Persian  cooit. 

Nektanebos  (Nekhte-nebof)  was  a  powerful  monarch,  in 
whose  reign  large  temples  (e.jr.  at  Philae ,  p.  364)  were 
once  more  built.  Egypt,  however,  was  reconquered  by  the 
Persians ;  the  king  fled  to  Ethiopia  and  the  temples  were 
plundered. 

Alexander  the  Great  took  possession  of  Egypt. 

b.  Graeco-Roman  Period  (332  B.C.-640  A.D.). 

1.  Alexander  the  Great  and  the  Ptolemaic  Period. 
■Under  tbe  Ptolemies  the  lower  valley  of  the  Nile  became 
once  more  for  three  centuries  the  seat  of  a  brilliant  kingdom, 
at  first  under  gifted  rulers  of  the  mo.st  prosperous,  richest,  and 
most  powerful  state  in  the  world,  but  afterwards  condemned  to 
shameful  impotence  under  their  vicious  and  degenerate  posterity, 
torn  by  fratricidal  wars,  and  existing  only  by  the  favour  of  Rome, 
until  it  was  involved  in  the  domestic  struggles  of  Rome  and  finally 
perished.''  The  customs  and  religious  views  of  the  Egyptians 
were  respected  by  the  Ptolemies,  who  represented  themselves 
to  the  native  population  as  the  descendants  of  the  ancient 
Pharaohs.     Large  temples  were  built  during  this  period. 

Alexander  the  Great  tolerated  the  native  religion  and  visited 
the  oasis  of  Jupiter  Ammon  (Siweh  Oasis,  p.  878)  in  331, 
where  he  was  hailed  by  the  priests  as  a  son  of  Ammon.  He 
founded  Alexandria  (p.  12),  which  soon  became  the  centre 
of  Greek  culture  and  of  the  commerce  of  the  whole  world. 
After  his  death  in  323  the  Macedonian  empire  fell  to 
pieces.    Egypt  became  the  satrapy  of  — 

Ptolemy  I.  Soter  I.,  son  of  Lagus,  who  carried  on  the  govern- 
ment at  first  for  Philippus  ArrhidKus  and  Alexander  II., 
son  of  Alexander  the  Great,  and  then  for  the  latter  alone. 
Alexander  II.  died  in  311  and  Ptolemy  assumed  the  title 
of  king  in  305.  The  Museum  at  Alexandria  (p.  13)  and 
Ptolema'is  Uermiou  (^p.  221),  in  Upper  Egypt,  were  founded 
in  this  reign. 

Ptolemy  n.  Philadelphns  married  first  Arsinoe  I. ,  daughter 
of  Lysimachus,  then  his  sister  Arsinoi  II.  Arsinoe  II.  was 
named  patron-goddess  of  the  Falyum,  which  was  entitled 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


the  'Arsinoite  iiome'  in  her  honour.  Under  Philadelphus 
and  his  successors  great  elephant-hunts  took  place  on  the 
Somali  coast.  The  elephants  were  brought  to  Egypt  and 
trained  for  military  purposes. 

Ptolemy  III.  Eaergetes  I.  married  Berenice  of  Gyrene.  He 
temporarily  conquered  the  empire  of  the  Seleucides  in 
Asia  Minor.  An  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  by  the 
Egyptian  priests  to  reform  the  calendar  by  intercalating  a 
day  in  every  fourth  year.  The  power  of  Egypt  abroad  was 
now  at  its  zenith. 

Ptolemy  IV.  Fhilopator.  Under  the  misgovernment  of  this 
king  and  his  successors  the  empire  of  the  Ptolemies  began 
to  totter.  Ptolemy  IV.  defeated  Antiochus  the  Great  of 
Syria,  who  had  threatened  the  Egyptian  frontier,  at  the 
battle  of  R  aphia,  butconcluded  a  dishonourable  peace  with 
him.  The  king  married  his  sister  Arsinoe  HI.  For  nine- 
teen years  a  series  of  native  Pharaohs  ruled  at  Thebes. 

Ptolemy  V.  Epiphanes  (comp.  p.  cxxvi)  ascended  the  throne, 
when  five  years  of  age,  under  the  guardianship  of  Agathocles 
and  ffinanthe,  the  mother  of  the  latter.  In  consequence 
of  a  revolt  at  Alexandria  his  guardians  were  obliged  to 
resign  their  office.  Advantageof  these  dissensions  was  taken 
by  Antiochus  the  Great  of  Syria  and  Philip  V.  of  Macedonia 
to  invade  the  foreign  possessions  of  Egypt.  Egypt  offered 
the  guardianship  of  Ptolemy  V.  to  the  Boman  Senate,  which 
ceded  Goelesyria  and  Palestine  to  Antiochus,  while  Egypt 
continued  to  be  independent.  Ptolemy  married  Cleopatra  J., 
daughter  of  Antiochus.  The  internal  affairs  of  the  country 
fell  into  deplorable  confusion;  rebellion  succeeded  rebel- 
lion, and  anarchy  prevailed  everywhere. 

Ptolemy  V.  was  poisoned. 

Ptolemy  VI.  Philometor,  his  son,  ascended  the  throne  under 
the  guardianship  of  his  mother  Cleopatra.  Onias  was  per- 
mitted by  the  king  to  build  a  Jewish  temple  at  Leonton- 
polls  (p.  171). 

Battle  of  Pelusium.  Philometor  was  taken  prisoner,  and 
Memphis  captured,  by  Antiochus  IV.  of  Syria.  The  king's 
younger  brother  — 

Ptolemy  IX.  (Physkon),  at  first  also  surnamed  Philometor, 
was  summoned  to  the  throne  by  the  Alexandrians. 

reigned  jointly,  having  become  reconciled, 

and  with  them  also  their  sister  Cleopatra, 

wife  of  Philometor. 

The  brothers  again  quarrelled.  Philometor,  banished  by  his 
brother,  fled  to  Rome,  was  reinstated  by  the  Roman  Sen- 
ate, and  thenceforth  reigned  alone,  while  the  younger 
brother  became  King  of  Cyrene. 


Ptolemy  VI.  and 
Ptolemy  IX. 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY.  clx 

After  the  death  of  Philometor  he  was  succeeded  by  his  sou, 
Ptolemy  VIl.  Eupator,  who,  after  a  very  short  reigu,  gave 
place  to   — 

Ptolemy  IX.,  who  now  assumed  the  title  of  Euergetes  [II.). 
He  married  his  brother's  widow  aud  afterwards  also  his 
niece  Cleopatra. 

Expelled  by  a  revolution,  Ptolemy  IX.  sought  refuge  in  Cy- 
prus, while  Cleopatra  reigned  iu  Egypt  as  Philometor  So- 
teira.  Memphites,  a  sou  of  Euergetes,  became,  under  the 
name  Ptolemy  VIII.  Neos  Pliilopator,  a  rival  to  his  father, 
who  succeeded  iu  murdering  him. 

Euergetes  II.  regained  possession  of  the  throne.  After  his 
death  the  government  was  shared  by  his  widow  — 

Cleopatra  Cocce  and  her  son  Ptolemy  X.  Soter  n.  (Lathyrua). 

Soter  II.  was  banished,  and  his  brother  Ptolemy  XL  Alex- 
ander I.  became  co-regent  in  his  stead. 

Alexander,  expelled  by  a  rebellion,  perished  iu  a  naval 
battle.    Soter  II.  was  recalled. 

Thebes  rebelled  aud  was  destroyed. 

After  the  death  of  Soter  II.  Ptolemy  XII.  Alexander  II.  mar- 
ried Cleopatra  Berenice,  with  whom  he  reigned  jointly. 

He  assassinated  his  wife  and  was  himself  slain. 

Ptolemy  Xm,  NeosDionysos  (popularly  called  Aufetes,  i.e. 
'the  flute -player'l  next  ascended  the  throne  and  was  for- 
mally recognized  by  Rome.  Ho  was  banished  by  his  daughter 
Berenice,  who  married  Archelaus,  an  alleged  son  of  Mi- 
thridates  VI.,  King  of  Pontus,  but  he  was  restored  by  the 
Romans  after  six  mouths.  The  temple  at  Edfu  (p.  344)  was 
completed  aud  that  at  Dendera  was  begun  (p.  245).  - — 
Ptolemy  XIII.  was  succeeded  by  his  children  — 

Cleopatra  and  Ptolemy  XIV. ,  under  the  guardianship  of 
the  Roman  Senate.   Pompey  was  appointed  guardian. 

Ptolemy  XIV.  banished  his  sister  Cleopatra.  Pompey,  hav- 
ing been  defeated  at  the  battle  ofPharsalia,  sought  refuge 
in  Egypt,  but  on  landing  was  slain  at  the  instigation  of 
Ptolemy,  his  ward. 

Ceesar  landed  at  Alexandria  (p.  12),  took  the  part  of  the 
banished  Cleopatra,  and  defeated  the  rebellious  Ptolemy, 
who  was  drowned  iu  the  Nile.  —  Cssar,  having  mean- 
while become  dictator  of  Rome,  appointed  — 

Ptolemy  XV.,  the  brother  of  Cleopatra,  a  boy  of  eleven,  co- 
regent. 

Ptolemy  XV.  was  assassinated  at  the  instigation  of  Cleopatra, 
and  — 

Ptolemy  XVI.  Csesar  (also  called  Csesarion),  her  son  by  Cae- 
sar, was  appointed  oo-regent. 

Csesar  was  murdered. 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


Antony,  having  summoned  Cleopatra  to  Tarsus  to  answer  for 
the  conduct  of  her  general  AUienus,  who  contrary  to  her 
wishes  had  aided  the  army  of  Brutus  and  Cassius  at  Phillppi, 
was  captivated  by  her  beauty  and  talent.  After  having 
spent  years  of  debauchery  with  the  Egyptian  queen,  he 
was  at  length  declared  by  the  Roman  Senate  to  be  an  en- 
emy of  Ms  country.  Octavianua  marched  against  him,  de- 
feated him  at  Actium,  and  captured  Alexandria.  Antony 
committed  suicide,  and  Cleopatra  also  is  said  to  have 
caused  her  own  death  by  the  bite  of  an  asp. 

Egypt  now  became  a  Roman  province  subject  only  to  the 
emperor  and  was  governed  by  viceroys  or  prefects  nom- 
inated by  the  emperor. 

2.  Roman  Period. 
The  Roman  emperors  followed  the  example  of  the  Ptolemies 
in  representing  themselves  to  the  Egyptian  people  as  successors 
of  the  old  Pharaohs  and  in  maintaining  the  appearance  of  a 
national  Egyptian  state.  —  Christianity  was  early  introduced 
into  Egypt,  where  it  spread  rapidly. 

C.  Cornelius  Oallus  (B.C.  69-26),  whom  Ovid  ranked  first 
among  Roman  elegiac  poets,  was  appointed  first  prefect. 
He  repressed  an  insurrection  in  Upper  Egypt  (p.  256)  and 
fought  against  the  Ethiopians.  Having  afterwards  fallen 
into  disgrace  with  the  emperor,  he  committed  suicide.  — 
The  reformed  calendar  was  finally  introduced  by  Augustus. 

Caesar  Octavianus,  under  the  title  of  AugnstuB,  became 
sole  ruler  of  the  vast  Roman  empire  (p.  13). 

The  Ethiopians,  under  their  queen  Candace,  invaded  Egypt. 

Strabo  travelled  in  Egypt. 

Tiberius  erected  the  Sebasteum  at  Alexandria. 

Germaniciis  visited  Egypt. 

Caligula.  In  Alexandria  civic  disturbances  took  place  be- 
tween the  Hellenes  and  the  Jews. 

Claudius.  The  building  of  the  pronaos  of  the  temple  at 
Esneh  (p.  342)  was  begun. 

Nero.  Egypt  acquired  a  new  source  of  wealth  as  a  commercial 
station  between  India  and  Rome. 

Galba.    Otho.     ViteUius. 

Vespasian  (p.  14)  was  first  proclaimed  emperor  at  Alexan- 
dria. From  this  city  his  son  Titus  (79-811  started  on  his 
expedition  against  Palestine,  which  terminated  with  the 
destruction  of  Jerusalem  in  the  year  70.  The  temple  of 
Onias  (p.  cviiil  was  closed. 

Domitian  favoured  the  worship  of  Isis  and  Serapis  at  Rome. 

Nerva. 

Trajan  (pp.  13,  182).  The  canal  connecting  the  Nile  with 
the  Red  Sea  was  re-opened  (Amnis  Trajanus). 


IV.   ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


Hadrian  (p.  14)  visited  Egypt  in  130.  His  favourite  Aii- 
tinous  was  drowned  in  the  Nile,  and  was  commemorated 
by  the  founding  of  the  town  of  Antinotipolis  (^p.  209). 

Antoninus  Fins. 

Marcus  Aurelius  (p.  14). 

Rebellion  oi  the  Bucolians,  or  cow-herds,  who  had  long  been 
settled  among  the  marshes  to  theE.  of  Alexandria,  quelled 
by  Avidius  Cassius. 

Avidius  Cassius  was  proclaimed  emperor  by  the  Egyptian 
legions,  but  was  assassinated  in  Syria. 

Marcus  Aurelius  visited  Alexandria  {jp.  14). 

Commodns. 

School  of  the  Cathechists  flourished  at  Alexandria  under 
Pantaenus  (the  first  head  on  record),  Clement,  and  Origen. 

Septimius  Severns  (p.  14). 

Edict  prohibiting  Roman  subjects  from  embracing  Chris- 
tianity. The  Delta  at  this  period  was  thickly  studded 
with  Christian  communities. 

Caracalla  (p.  14)  visited  Egypt.    Massacre  at  Alexandria. 

The  Constitutio  Antonina  admitted  provincials  to  the  Roman 
citizenship. 

Caracalla  was  assassinated  by  the  prefect  of  his  guards  — 

Macrinus,  who  was  recognized  as  emperor  by  the  Egyptians. 
After  his  death  a  series  of  contests  for  the  possession  of 
the  throne  took  place  at  Alexandria. 

Decins  (p.  14).  Persecution  of  the  Christians  in  250  A.D. 
under  Bishop  Dionysius  of  Alexandria. 

Valerian.  Persecution  of  the  Christians  [p.  14). 

Gallienus  accorded  a  certain  measure  of  religious  toleration 
to  the  Christians.    Plague  in  Egypt. 

Rebellion  of  Macrianus ,  who  was  recognized  as  emperor  by 
the  Egyptians.  He  marched  into  lUyria  against  Domi- 
tian,  the  general  of  Gallienus. 

jEmilianus  (Alexander)  was  proclaimed  emperor  by  the  army 
at  Alexandria  and  recognized  by  the  people,  but  was  de- 
feated and  put  to  death  by  the  Roman  legions. 

Lower  Egypt  occupied  by  an  army  of  Queen  Zenobia  of 
Palmyra,  and  part  of  Upper  Egypt  by  the  Blemmyes. 

Clandins  11. 

Aurelian. 

Probus  reconquered  Egypt  for  the  empire. 

Anthony  of  Coma,  a  Copt,  became  the  first  hermit. 

Probus  obtained  the  purple  at  Alexandria. 

His  successful  campaign  against  the  Blemmyes. 

Diocletian. 

Rebellion  in  Upper  Egypt. 

Insurrection  of  the  Alexandrians. 


CXll 


IV.   ANCIENT    HISTORY. 


295. 

303. 
305-313. 
ca.  320. 
324-337. 


325. 

326. 
328. 

ca.  330. 

337-361. 

ca.  350. 

361-363. 

373. 

379-395. 


395. 


395-638. 
395-408. 


408-450. 
413. 
415. 

431. 


444. 
U9. 


Diocletian  took  Alexandria. 

Persecution  of  the  Christians. 

Maximinus.    Beginning  of  the  Arian  controversies. 

Pachomius  founded  the  first  convent  in  Tabennese  (p.  222). 

Constantine  the  Great,  the  first  emperor  who  was  really  a 
friend  of  the  Christians.  The  government  of  Egypt  was 
reorganized;  the  country  was  made  into  a  diocese  and  sub- 
divided into  six  provinces,  viz.  Egypt,  Augustamnica, 
Heptanomis  (afterwards  called  Arcadia),  Thebais,  Upper 
Egypt,  and  Lower  Egypt. 

Council  of  Nice.  The  doctrine  of  the  presbyter  Arius  of  Alex- 
andria that  Christ  was  begotten  by  God  before  all  time,  for  the 
purpose  of  creating  the  world,  and  was  godlike,  but  not  very 
God,  was  condemned ;  while  the  doctrine  that  Father  and  Son 
are  hornousioi.  or  of  the  same  nature,  was  sanctioned. 

Athannsius,  Archbishop  of  Alexandria. 

Constantine  founded  Constantinople  as  a  new  metropolis  of 
Greek  art  and  science. 

Beginning  of  the  communities  of  anchorites  in  the  Sketian 
and  Nitrian  deserts  (Macarius,  Amun). 

Constantius.  He  favoured  Arianism.  Athanasius  was  ban- 
ished from  Alexandria  more  than  once. 

The  earliest  Coptic  translations  of  the  Bible  date  from  about 
this  period. 

Julian,  surnamed  the  Apostate  from  his  renunciation  of 
Christianity  (p.  14). 

Athanasius  died,  after  witnessing  the  success  of  his  cause  in 
the  last  years  of  his  life. 

Theodosius  I.  the  Great.  He  formally  declared  Christianity 
to  be  the  religion  of  the  empire.  Persecution  of  the  Arians 
and  heathens  (p.  14).  Destruction  of  the  Serapeum  (p.  14). 

Partition  of  the  Roman  empire,  Arcadius  being  emperor  of 
the  East,  and  Honorius  of  the  West. 

3.  Byzantine  Period, 

Arcadius.  Theophilus,  the  bigoted  Patriarch  of  Alexandria 
(p.  15),  carried  fire  and  sword  against  the  opponents 
of  anthropomorphism,  the  doctrine  that  God  must  be  con- 
sidered to  have  a  human  form. 

Theodosius  II. 

Theophilus  died  and  was  succeeded  by  Cyril  (p.  15). 

Hypatia,  the  female  pagan  philosopher  (p.  15),  died  a  mar- 
tyr's death  at  Alexandria. 

The  Patriarch  Cyril  defended  his  view,  that  the  Virgin  was 
7)  SeoToxot,  against  Nestorins,  Patriarch  of  Constantinople,  at  the 
Third  (Ecumenical  Council,    held  at  Epesns. 

Death  of  Cyril. 

_  In  the  so-called  'Robber  Councir  at  Ephesus  the  Patriarch 
Dioscurus  of  Alexandria  obtained  a  victory  as  representative  of 
the  monophygite  view  (see  p.  cziii). 


IV.  ANCIENT  HISTORY. 


cxiii 


Marcian.. 

At  the  Fourth  CEcumenical  Council,  that  of  (Jhalcedon,  the 
monophysite  doctrine,  to  the  effect  that  Christ  possessed  a  double 
nature  before  his  incarnation,  but  that  his  human  nature  was 
afterwards  absorbed  by  his  divine,  was  condemned,  chiefly 
through  the  influence  of  Pope  Leo  the  (ireat.  At  this  council 
the  doctrine  that  Christ  possesses  two  natures,  oauyxuxtu;  and 
arp^TiTU);,  but  at  the  same  time  aotaip^Tuj?  and  a^^iuptcrrox;,  i.e. 
unmixed  and  unchangeable,  but  also  indistinguishable  and  in- 
separable, was  formally  adopted  by  the  Church.  The  Egyptian 
Christians,  to  this  day,  adhere  to  the  monophysite  doctrine. 
Hslablishment  of  the  national  Egyptian  or  Coptic  Church. 
Zeno. 

Anastasius. 
Famine  in  Egypt. 

Justinian  (p.  15).    New  administrative  measures. 
Heraclius  (p.  15). 

The  Persians   under  Chosroes  II.    invaded  Egypt   (p.  15). 
}      Alexandria  was  taken.    Clvosroes  ruled  with  moderation. 
G22.  [  The  Hegira,  the  beginning  of  the  Mohammedan  calendar 

(p. Ixxxiv). 
026.  I  The  Persians  expelled  by  Heraclius. 

632.  '  Death  of  Mohammed.   Abu  Bekr,  his  succe^^sor,  becomes  the 
I       first  caliph. 

634.  ;  Beginning  of  the  conquest  of  Syria  by  the  Arabs.    Death  of 

Abu  Bekr.    Omar  becomes  the  second  caliph. 
&?G.  !  Decisive  victory  of  the  Arabs  over  the  Byzantines  on  the 

Yarmuk.    Fall  of  Damascus. 
637.  I  Victory  of  the  Arabs  over  the  Persians  at  Kadesia;   fall  of 

Ktesiphon.    End  of  the  Sassanide  empire. 

635.  I  Fall  of  Jerusalem.    Omar  in  Syria. 


II.  The  Middle  Ages+. 

Egypt  as  a  Province  of  the  Empire  of  the  Caliphs. 
640.  I  'Amr  ibn  el- As  (pp.  15,  44,  109),  general  of  Caliph  Omar, 
conquered  Pelusium  (p.  186)  and  defeated  the  Byzantines 
I      at  Heliopolis  (p.  120). 
041.    The  fortified  city  of  Babylon  was  handed  over  (p.  44)  through 
the  intervention  of  the  Patriarch  Cyrus  (Mukaukis).  Alex- 
andria taken  (p.  15). 
642.    Fusttit  was  founded  as  military  headquarters  and  seat  of  the 

government  (p.  44). 
:-656.  [  'OthmSji.  He  was  overthrown  in  a  revolt  which  had  its  origin 

i      in  Egypt. 

645.  Alexandria  was  relieved  by  the  Byzantine  fleet. 

646.  [  'Amr  recaptured  Alexandria.    Egypt  now  became  an  undis- 


+  With  additions  by  Prof.  C.  H.  Becker  and  Dr.   C.  Piufer. 
Baedekrk's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  h 


IV.  MEDl/^ilVAL  HISTORY. 


666-661. 


756. 


puted  possession  of  the  Arabs  and  the  base  for  their  naval 
campaigns  against  Byzantium  and  for  tlieir  conquest  of 
N.  Africa. 
Civil  war  between  Caliph 'Ali,  the  son-in-law  of  Mohammed, 
and  Mu'iwia,  the  founder  of  the  dynasty  of  the  Omai- 
yades.  Egypt  belonged  at  first  to  'Ali,  but  after  658  to 
the  Omaiyades. 

Omaiyades.  658-750. 

This  illustrious  Arabian  dynasty  had  its  residence  in  Da- 
mascus. Arabian  tribes  vrere  settled^in  the  Nile  valley 
and  the  system  of  government  was  based  on  Arabian  juodels. 
Many  Copts  embraced  Islam.  Egypt  was  ruled  by  gover- 
nors, who  were  often  princes  of  the  house  of  the  cnliphs. 

Merw&n  II.,  the  last  of  this  dynasty,  fled  to  Egypt,  and  was 
put  to  death  there.  Histonibisat  Abusirel-Melek(p.206). 
The  Omaiyades  were  then  exterminated,  with  the  excep- 
tion of 'Abd  er-Kahman,  who  fled  to  Spain,  and  founded 
an  independent  caliphate  at  Cordova. 


Abbasides.    TnO-SGS. 
The  new  dynasty,  which  had  risen  to  power  on  Iranian  soil 
and  with  Persian  assistance,    transferred  the  royaU  resi- 
dence and  seat  of  government  from  Syria  to  the  'Irak.  Bagh- 
I      dad  was   founded  and  the  caliphate  reached  its  zenith. 
■  Egypt  was  ruled  by  frequently  changing  governors. ;  The 
I       Copts  were  oppressed  and  frequent  revolts  occurred. 
813-833.  i  Ma'mtin ,  the  son  of  ITarun  er-Rashid,   visited   Egypt  and 
quelled  the  resistance  of  the  Copts  and  the  Beduin  (tribes 
that  had  settled  in  Egypt.   The  fusion  between  the' Arabs 
and  the  Copts  began  and  Arabic  became  the  language  of 
the  fellahin. 
Under  Ma'mun's  successors  the  power  of  the  caliphs  began 
to  decline ;  the  government  became  dependent  upon  Turk- 
ish Mamelukes,   and  the  provinces  regained  their  inde- 
pendence. 

Tulunides.   868-905. 
Egypt  became  again  for  a  short  time  independent. 
Ahmed  ibn  Tultin,  governor  of  Egypt,   declared  himself  an 
independent  sultan,    and  extended   the   boundaries    of 
Egypt  beyond  Syria  and  as  far  as  Mesopotamia.   Numerous 
buildings  were  erected  during  his  reign  (pp.44, 71,  et  seq.) 
I    and  that  of  his  son  — 
883-895.    Khumaraweih  (p.  44).    The  latter  and  his  successor;;  were 
unable  to  preserve  their  independence. 


IV.  MEDI  F.VAL  HISTORY. 


Abbasides.    905-936. 
Egjpt  again   came   under  the   dominion   of   the  Abbaaide 

sultans  at  Baghdad. 
The  Shiite  Fatimites  of  Kairawan  (Kairwan)  attacked  Egypt, 

but  were  defeated. 

Ikhshidides.    935-969. 

Mohammed  el-Ikhsbid,  a  Turk  and  governor  of  Egypt,  took 
possession  of  the  tlirone  and  founded  a  short-lived  dynasty. 
His  successors  ruled  under  the  direction  of  - — 

K&ffir,  an  Abyssinian  eunuch,  who  afterwards  usurped  the 
throne  and  recognized  the  suzerainty  of  the  Abbasides. 
Syria  and  the  sacred  towns  were  subordinate  to  Egypt, 
and  the  court  at  Old  Cairo  was  very  brilliant.  On  his 
death  Kafiir  was  succeeded  by  his  grandson,  who  was 
not  yet  of  age,  and  tho  Fatimites  took  advantage  of  this 
momont  of  weakness  to  conquer  Egypt. 

Egypt  under  Independent  Rulers. 

Fatimites.  069-1171. 
The  B'atimitcs,    the  rulers  of  a  kingdom  wliicli  had  arisen  in 
the  W.    part   of  N.  Africa   in  909,    as   the   result  of  a  religious 
SUiite  miivement,  attributed  their  origin  toFatima.  the  daughter 
of  Mohammed. 

Gohar  conquered  Egypt  for  his  master,  the  Fatimite  Mu'izz, 
and  founded  the  new  capital  Cairo  (p.  44). 

Mu'izz  came  himself  to  Cairo  and  resided  there  until  his 
death  (975).   He  conquered  Syria  also. 

£l-^Aziz,  son  of  Mu'izz,  distinguished  himself  by  his  tolerance 
and  his  love  of  science  fp.  55  I  and  Egypt  prospered  under 
his  rule. 

£1-H&kim  (p.  77),  his  son  by  a  Christian  mother,  was  a 
fanatic,  capable  of  extraordinary  cruelty.  Subsequently, 
at  the  instigation  of  Ed-Darazi,  a  Persian  sectary,  he 
declared  himself  to  be  an  incarnation  of  'Ali  (p.  cxiv), 
and  exacted  the  veneration  due  to  a  god.  Ed-Darazi  be- 
came the  founder  of  the  sect  of  the  Druses  (see  Baedektr's 
Palestine  and  Syria).  Hakim  disappeared  on  one  of  his 
nightly  rides  on  the  Mokattam  hills,  where  he  was  prob- 
ably assassinated  at  the  instigation  of  his  sister.  The 
Druses  believe  that  he  voluntarily  withdrew  from  the 
world  in  consequence  of  its  sinfulness  and  that  he  will 
one  day  re-appear  as  a  divine  prophet. 

Ez-Zihir,  Hakim's  effeminate  and  cruel  son,  succeeded  at 
the  age  of  sixteen. 

El-Mustansir,  a  weak  and  incapable  prince. 

Under  Christodulos ,  the  Coptic  Patriarch,  the  seat  of  the 
Patriarch  was  removod  from  Alexandria  to  Cairo. 


IV.  MEDIAEVAL  HISTORY. 


li'65, 


1074-1094. 


1094. 
1094-1101. 
1096-1098. 

1099. 
1101-1159. 


llGO-1171. 


1164. 
1168. 


169-1193. 
1171. 


1200-1218. 


Tlie  country  was  ravaged  for  seven  years  by  pestilence  and 
famine,  owing  to  the  failure  of  tlie  Nile  inundation.  Pal- 
estine and  Syria  were  overrun  by  the  Seljuks,  who  attacked 
them  from  the  E.  There  were  revolts  among  the  Turkish 
and  Berber  mercenaries.  The  palace  and  the  library  were 
plundered. 

Badr  el-Gamali,  Mustansir's  Armenian  vizier,  restored  order 
in  the  capital,  ami  governed  with  almost  unlimited  power, 
to  the  great  advantage  of  Egypt.    His  son  — 

El-Afdal  became  vizier  to  the  young  caliph,  — 

El-Mustali,  son  of  Mustansir,  who  conquered  — 

Jerusalem  and  the  towns  on  the  Syrian  coast ,  but  was  de- 
prived of  his  conquests  by  the  army  of  the  First  Crusade. 

King  Baldirin  of  Jerusalem  attacked  Egypt  unsuccessfully. 

Owing  to  a  succession  of  incapable  caliphs  the  Empire  of 
the  Fatimites  gradually  fell  to  pieces.  The  viziers,  El- 
Afdal  (assassinated  in  1121}  and  his  successors,  were  the 
actual  rulers  of  the  country. 

El-'Adid,  the  last  Fatimite  caliph. 

Contests  for  the  ol'flce  of  vizier  took  place  during  this  reign 
between  Shdwer  and  Dirgham.  The  former,  being  exiled, 
obtained  an  asylum  with  Nur  ed-D7n,  the  ruler  of  Aleppo, 
who  assisted  him  to  regain  his  office  with  Kurd  mercen- 
ary troops,  under  the  brave  generals  Sh7rkuh  and  Saladin. 
Shawer,  quarrelling  with  the  Kurds,  invoked  the  aid  of 
Amalarich  I.,  King  of  Jerusalem,  who  came  to  Egypt  and 
expelled  the  Kurds.  A  second  army  of  Kurds,  which  was 
about  to  invade  Egypt,  was  driven  back  in  the  same 
way,  whereupon  Amalarich  himself  endeavoured  to  obtain 
possession  of  Egypt.  Shawer  next  invoked  the  aid  of  his 
enemy  Nur  ed-Din,  whose  Kurdish  troops  expelled  Ama- 
larich. Egypt  thus  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Kurds  Shirkiih 
and  Saladin.  Shawer  was  executed.  Shirkuh  became  chief 
vizier,  and  on  his  death  — 

Saladin  (^Saldh  ed-JDtn  YHsufibn  Aiyub  ^  p,  4o)  ruled  in  the 
name  of  the  incapable  caliph.  On  the  death  of  the  latter 
Saladin  became  sole  ruler  of  Egypt,  and  founded  the  dyn- 
asty of  the  — 

Aiyubides.  1171-1250. 

Saladin's  reign  was  the  most  brilliant  in  the  mediaeval  history 
of  Cairo,  though  he  resided  only  eight  years  in  the  city  and 
spent  the  rest  of  the  time  in  campaigns  in  Palestine,  Syria, 
and  Mesopotamia.  He  began  the  citadel  (p.  68).  The  Shiite 
doctrines  and  forms  of  worship,  introduced  into  Egypt  by 
the  Fatimites,  were  abolished.    Syria  was  conquered. 

Malik  el-Adil,    his  brother,   for  a  short  time  preserved  the 


IV.  MEDIEVAL  HISTORY. 


!  flominions  intact;  on  Saladin's  death  they  had  been  tem- 
porarily divided,  and  the  empire  was  again  dismembered 
at  his  brother's  death,  Egypt  falling  to  the  share  of  the 
latter's  sou  — 

Malik  el-K&mil  (pp.  173,  176),  a  prudent  and  vigorous  ruler. 

Damietta  (^Dumyat)  was  captured  by  the  army  of  the  Fifth 
Crusade,  but  was  surrendered  again  in  1221  (p.  176). 

Kamil  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  Emperor  Frederick  II., 
wlio  led  an  army  into  Palestine.  By  thiS'  compact  Jeru- 
salem and  the  coast-towns  were  surrendered  to  the  emperor 
for  ten  years.  —  El-Kamil  was  succeeded  by  his  sons  — 

EI-'AdU  li.  and  — 

Es-SSIih  Aijrfib.  The  latter  built  the  castle  on  the  island  of 
Roda  ill  the  Nile. 

Louis  IX.,  the  Sdlnt,  of  France  undertook  the  Sixth  Crusade, 
marched  against  Egypt,  and  took  Damietta,  but  was  cap- 
tured along  with  his  army  at  Mansura  fp.  173)  by  Ttlrfi,n- 
shah,  who  had  succeeded  his  father  Es-Salib.  During  the 
negotiations  for  the  release  of  Louis  Turanshah  was 
murdered  by  his  body-guards,  the  Mamelukes.  One  of 
the  Mameluke  leaders,  named  Aibek,  was  raised  to  the 
throne,  after  the  short  interregnum  under  a  woman,  and 
founded  the  — 

Dynasty  of  the  Bahrite  Mamelukes  t.  1250-1382. 

lu  the  space  of  132  years  there  were  twenty-five  sultans,  some 
of  whom  reigned  sei'eral  times. 

Beybars  I.  (Balbars),  one  of  the  ablest  of  this  dynasty,  anni- 
hilated the  last  remnants  of  the  kingdom  of  Jerusalem  in 
the  course  of  four  campaigns.  He  brought  to  Cairo  the  last 
representative  of  the  Abbaside  caliphs,  who  had  been  over- 
thrown by  the  Mongols  and  expelled  from  Baghdad,  and 
permitted  him  and  his  successors  nominally  to  occupy  the 
throne. 

Eal&un,  tl-MamuT  Kaldun  (p.  75),  succeeded,  to  the  exclu- 
sion of  a  youthful  son  of  Beybars  (1277-1279),  successfully 
opposed  the  Mongols,  and  entered  into  treaties  with  the 
Emperor  Rudolph  and  other  princes. 

El-Ashraf  Ehalil  captured  Acre,  the  last  place  in  the  Holy 
I.aiiil  lielil  by  the  Christians. 

En-Nisir,  Ndsir  ed- 1) in  Mohammed  (p.  45),  succeeded  his 
brother  Khalil  at  the  age  of  nine  years,  but  owing  to  in- 
ternal dissensions  was  compelled  to  retire  to  Syria.    With 

+  The  Mamelukes  were  slaves  (as  the  word  jnanWtfiJim ports),  pur- 
ihased  by  the  sultan.i  and  trained  as  soldiers  far  the  purpose  of  forming 
their  hody-finard  and  the  nucleus  of  their  army.  They  became  known  as 
the  Bahrite  Mamelukes  from  the  fact  that  their  barnvcks  lay  on  the  island 
of  Roda  in  the  river  (Bahr). 


IV.  MEDIAEVAL  HISTORY. 


1347-1361. 


1382-1399. 


1399-1412. 


1412-1421. 


the  aid  ot'tlie  Syrian  emirs,  liowcver,  he  regained  his  throne 
in  1298.  Once  more  expelled  in  the  same  year,  he  re- 
gained his  throne  in  1309  and  retained  possession  of  it  till 
his  death  in  1340.  Distrust,  vindictiveness,  and  cupidity 
soon  showed  themselves  to  be  prominent  characteristics 
of  En-Nasir,  who  treated  his  emirs  with  the  utmost  capri- 
ciousness,  loading  them  with  rich  gifts  or  ordering  them 
to  execution  as  the  humour  seized  him.  The  emir  IsmCi'il 
Abfdfida,  known  also  as  a  historian,  succeeded,  however, 
in  retaining  his  master's  favour  until  his  death  (1331). 
Towards  the  mass  of  the  population  En-Nasir  was  liberal  and 
condescending,  and  towards  the  clergy  indulgent.  In  order 
to  provide  the  enormous  sums  required  for  the  expenses  of 
his  court  and  his  love  of  building  he  appointed  Christian 
officials  in  the  custom-house  and  finance  departments,  as 
they  were  considered  especially  clever  and  cunning. 
Hasan  en-N&sir  (p.  66),  the  sixth  son  of  En-Nasir,  was  still  a 
minor  when  he  ascended  the  throne.  The  lawless  indepen- 
dence of  the  Mamelukes  and  emirs  was  aggravated  by  a 
plague  in  1348-49  which  exterminated  whole  families, 
whose  property  was  immediately  seized  by  the  government. 
After  having  been  dethroned  in  1351  by  Sdlih  (p.  45) 
Hasan  regained  his  sceptre  three  years  later,  but  in  1361 
he  was  assassinated.  —  The  following  sultans  became 
more  and  more  dependent  on  the  emirs. 

Dynasty  of  the  Circassian  Mamelukes.    1382-1617. 

Barktik  (pp.  45,  76,  112),  a  Circassian  slave,  succeeded  in 
usurping  the  throne  by  treacherously  setting  aside  Haggi,  a 
boy  of  six  years  and  great-grandson  of  En-Nasir.  The  exas- 
perated emirs  dethroned  him  in  1389;  but  he  triumphantly 
re-entered  Cairo  in  1390.  He  fought  successfully  against 
the  Mongols  under  Timur  and  the  Osmans  under  Bayazid. 

Farag  (^pp.  45,  112),  his  son,  had  scarcely  ascended  the 
throne,  as  a  boy  of  thirteen  years  of  age,  before  the  Osmans, 
and  a  little  later  the  Mongols,  again  began  to  threaten  the 
Egyptian  dominions.  Farag  proceeded  victoriously  as  far  as 
Damascus ;  but  owing  to  dissensions  among  his  emirs  he 
was  obliged  to  retuni  to  Cairo.  After  the  defeat  of  the  Turks 
by  the  Mongols  under  Timur  at  the  battle  of  Angora,  Farag 
had  to  enter  into  negotiations  with  Timur.  The  latter  years 
of  Farags  reign  were  constantly  disturbed  by  the  rebellions 
of  his  emirs,  particularly  Sheikh  el-Mahmudi,  who  after- 
wards became  Svltan  El-Muaiyad.  Farag  was  at  length 
compelled^ by  the  insurgents  to  capitulate  at  Damascus, 
and  his  execution  was  followed  by  the  accession  of  — 

Sheikh el-Mahmftdi  Muaiyad  (p.  69).  His  reign  was  chiefly 


IV.  MEDLEVAl.  HISTORY. 


occupied  with  victorious  cauipaigns  against  liis  umuly  Sy- 
rian vassals,  in  which  be  was  greatly  aided  by  the  military 
talents  of  his  son  Ihrnhlm. 

He  exacted  heavy  contributions  from  Christians  and  Jews, 
and  he  re-enacted  and  rigorously  enforced  the  sumptuary  laws 
of  Omar,  Mutawakkil,  Hakim,  and  En-Nasir.  Not  only  were 
the  colours  to  be  worn  by  the  Christians  and  Jews  i)rescribed 
(the  costume  of  the  former  being  dark-blue,  with  black  turbans, 
and  a  wooden  cross  weiiihing  51b3.  hung  round  their  necks : 
(hat  of  the  latter,  yellow,  with  black  turbans,  and  a  black 
ball  hung  from  their  necks);  but  tlie  fashion  of  their  dress  and 
length  of  their  turbans,  and  even  the  costume  of  their  women, 
were  so  regulated  as  entirely  to  distinguish  them  from  the 
followers  of  the  prophet. 

El-Ashraf  Bars  Bey  (Bursbey;  pp.  53,  113j,  who  Ji.iil  tor  a 
time  been  the  vicegerent  of  an  infant  sultan,  ascended  the 
throne  on  April  1st,  1422.  He  waged  successful  campaigns 
against  Cyprus  and  the  Mongols. 

K&it  Bey  (pp.  73,  113)  was  one  of  the  last  independent 
Mameluke  sultans  of  Egypt.  Both  as  a  general  and  a  diplo- 
matist he  successfully  maintained  his  position  against  the 
Turks  (Sultans  Mohammed  and  Bayazid),  and  even  inflicted 
serious  losses  on  them  ;  but  the  refractory  Mamelukes  ob- 
structed his  undertakings  and  in  1496  compelled  him  to 
abdicate  in  favour  of  his  son  Mohammed,  a  boy  of  fourteen. 

EI-Ghftri,  Kdiisuh  el-Oliuri  (p.  59),  once  a  slave  of  Kai't 
Bey,  was  upwards  of  sixty  years  of  age  when  he  ascended 
the  throne,  but  he  still  possessed  sufficient  vigour  to  keep 
the  unruly  emirs  in  check.  Already  seriously  injured  by 
the  discovery  of  the  Cape  route  to  India  by,' the  Portuguese, 
the  trade  of  Egypt  was  terribly  depressed  by  high  taxes 
and  by  the  accompanying  debasement  of  the  coinage.  At 
the  instigation  of  the  Venetians,  El-Ghuri  equipped  a  fleet 
against  the  Portuguese  in  India,  and  in  1508  he  gained  a 
naval  victory  over  Lorenzo,  son  of  the  viceroy  Francisco 
d'Almeida,  at  Chaul,  nearjBombay;  but;in  1509  his  fleet 
was  compelled  to  retreat  to  Arabia.  El-Ghiiri  fell,  while 
fighting  against  the  army  of  the  Osman  sultan  Selim  I.  on 
the  plain  of  Merj  Dabik  (N.  of  Aleppo). 

THindn  Bey  (p.  61)  was  dethroned  by  tjie  Osman  Stiltan 
Selim  I.  of  Constantinople  (pp.  45,  120).  Cairo  was  taken 
by  storm.  Egypt  thenceforth  became  a  Turkish  Fashalie. 
Selim  compelled  Mutawakkil,  the  last  .scion  of  the  family 
of  the  Abbaside  caliphs,  to  convey  to  him' his  nominal 
supremacy,  and  thus  became  Khali f  (Caliph),  the  spiritual 
and  temporal  sovereign  of  all  the  professors  of  El-Islam,  t 


t  The  Osman  sultans^  claim  to  the  caliphate  is  based  upon  this'act. 
The  caliph  is  not  in  any  sense  the  -pope'  of  the  Mohammedans,  as;  he 
claims  no  spiritual  power.  He  is  the  temporal  head  of  the  true  believer." 
and  their  champion  in  the  holy  war.   The  caliphate  of  the  Osmana  is  only 


IV.  MODERN  HISTORY. 


III.  Modern  History. 

Turkish  Domination  after  1517. 

The  autliority  of  the  Osman  sultans  soon  declined,  and  with 
it  that  of  their  governors.  The  Egyptian  pashas  ■were  now 
obliged,  before  passing  any  new  measure,  to  obtain  the 
consent  of  the  24  Mameluke  Beys,  or  princes,  who  governed 
the  different  provinces.  These  beys  collected  the  taxes,  com- 
manded the  militia,  and  merely  paid  tribute  to  the  pasha. 

'Ali  Bey,  originally  a  slave,  raised  himself  to  the  dignity 
of  an  independent  sultan  of  Egypt.  He  conquered  Syria, 
but  died  on  the  point  of  returning  to  Egypt,  where  his 
son-in-law  Mohammed  Bey  Abu  Dahab  (p.  58)  had  seized 
the  throne.    After  Dahab's  death  the  beys  — 

Murdd  and  Ibrahim  shared  the  supremacy,  and  rendered 
themselves  almost  independent  of  Turkey. 

The  French  Occupation. 

Napoleon  Bonaparte  (pp.  30,  46,  183)  arrived  at  Alexan- 
dria, lioping  to  destroy  the  British  trade  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and,  by  occupying  Egypt,  to  neutralize  the  power 
of  England  in  India. 

Storming  of  Alexandria. 

The  Mameluke  Bey  Murad  defeated. 

Battle  of  the  Pyramids  (p.  79). 

Destruction  of  the  French  fleet  at  Abukir  by  the  B^itisl^ 
fleet  commanded  by  Nelson  (p.  30). 

Insurrection  at  Cairo  quelled. 

Central  and  Upper  Egypt  conquered. 

Defeat  of  the  Turks  at  Abukir  (p.  30). 

Napoleon  returned  from  Alexandria  to  France,  leaving 
General  Kl^er  in  Egypt. 

Kleber  defeated  the  Turks  at  Matariyeh  (p.  120). 

KMber  was  assassinated  at  Cairo  (p.  46). 

The  French  were  compelled  by  a  British  army  to  capitulate 
in  Cairo  and  Alexandria,  and  to  evacuate  Egypt. 

Hohammed  Ali  and  his  Successors. 

The  retirement  of  the  French  was  contemporary  with  the  rise 

of  the  star  of  Mohammed  All,  the  ablest  ruler  that  the  East 

has  produced  for  a  long  time.  Born  at  Kavala  in  Macedonia 

in  1769,  as  the  son  of  an  agha  of  police,  he  was  orphaned 


a  de  facto  caliphate,  as  according  to  the  Sheri''a  fp.  Ixxxvi)  the  caliph  must 
be  a  descendant  of  the  Knreishites,  the  Arab  tribe  to  which  Jlohammed 
and  the  earlier  caliphs  belonged.  On  this  aceoTint  many  of  Ihc  Sunnites 
do  not  recognize  ihe  caliiihate  if  the  Osmans.  The  Turkisli  court  theo- 
logians declare  that  this  is  not  a  necessary  condition,  bi:t  that  <^od  makes 
the  final  decision  in  the  success  with  which  he.  endows  the  caliph.  The 
Shiitt's  have  never  recognized  the  Osnn an  caliphs  as  they  are  not  descended 
from  Ali. 


IV.  MODERN  HISTOKY. 


1833. 
1839. 


at  an  early  age  and  was  brought  up  by  the  governor  of  his 
native  toAvn,  whose  daughter  he  married.  He  was  sent  to 
Egypt  in  1800  as  a  captain  in  the  contingent  from  Kavala 
and  so  distinguished  himself  in  action  against  the  French 
that  Kuiritf  Pasha^  the  new  governor,  appointed  him  bim- 
bashi  (colonel)  of  a  corps  of  Albanians  in  the  contests  be- 
tween the  Turks  and  the  Mamelukes.  In  this  position  Mo- 
hammed adopted  the  policy  of  apparent  impartiality,  while 
he  worked  (in  secret  lor  the  destruction  of  both  parties. 
When  the  Turkish  governor  was  expelled  Mohammed  Ali 
became  pasha,  with  the  approval  of  the  Porte,  and  on 
Aug.  ;?rd,  1805,  he  took  possession  of  the  citadel  of  Cairo 
(p.  46).  The  British  meanwhile  had  occupied  Alexandria 
andDamietta,  but  Mohammed,  allying  himself  with  the 
Mamelukes,  inflicted  two  defeats  upon  them,  in  consequence 
of  which  the  British  fleet  withdrew  in  autumn,  1807.  The 
pasha  next  disembarrassed  himself  of  his  now  inconvenient 
allies  by  inviting  the  Mameluke  beys  to  Cairo,  where  they, 
with  their  followers  (480  in  all),  were  treacherously  mas- 
sacred in  the  citadel  by  Mohammed's  Albanians,  on  March 
1st,  1811  (p.  68). 

A  campaign,  begun  in  1811  by  Mohammed  on  behalf  of  the 
Porte  against  the  Wahabis  (p.  xci),  who  had  taken  pos- 
session of  Arabia,  was  brought  to  a  successful  close  in  1816 
by  Mohammed's  son  Tusun.  A  fresh  insurrection  of  the 
AVahabis  was  suppressed  in  1819  by  Mohammed's  adop- 
tive son  Ibrahim  Pwha^  a  military  genius  of  the  first  order. 

Mohammed  now  turned  his  attention  to  military  reforms.  He 
employed  his  lawless  Albanians  in  Nubia  and  the  Sudan 
(where^his  son  Isma'il  perished,  p.  422)  and  created  a  home 
army  of  fellahin,  which  showed  its  prowess  in  1824-27, 
under  Ibrahim,  in  helping  the  sultan'in  the  Greek  war  of 
independence,  until  the  Turkish-Egyptian  fleet  was  anni- 
hilated at  the  battle  of  Navarino  (1827). 

To  increase  the  strength  and  resources  of  Egypt  Mohammed 
energetically  encouraged  agricultural  improvements  and 
introduced  various  manufacturing  industries  (comp.  p.  Ixv). 
After  the  Kussian  victories  over  Turkey  in  1828-29  he  de- 
cided that  the  moment  had  come  to  free  himself  from  the 
suzerainty  of  the  Porte.  At  the  beginning  of  18B2  Ibrahim 
invaded  .'^yria  and  within  a]year  he  was  master  of  Asia  Mitior, 
init  the  intervention  of  the  European  powers  compelled  Mo- 
hammed to  concludethe  peace  of  Kutnhia  orKonia  in  1833, 
which  was  favourable  to  the  Porte.  Sultan  Mahmud  11. 
renewed  hostilites  in  1839  against  Mohanimed  Ali,  who 
had  extended  his  power  over  S.AV.  Arabia,  but  the  Turkish 
army  was  decisively  defeated  on  June  24th  by  Ibrahim  at 


IV.  MODEUN  HISTORY. 


Nisib,  near  Birejik,  to  the  W.  of  the  Euphrates,  and  on  the 
deatli  of  the  sultan  (1st  July ,  1839)  Ahmed  Pasha ,  the 
Turkish  high  admiral,  and  the  entire  Turkish  fleet  declared 
for  Mohammed.  The  armed  intervention  of  England  and 
Austria,  however,  obliged  Mohammed  to  yield  to  the  Porte 
a  second  time.  By  the  so-called  lirmau  of  investiture  of 
1841  the  sultan  assured  the  hereditary  sovereignty  of 
Egypt  to  the  Caniily  of  Mohammed  Ali,  according  to  the 
Turkish  law  of  succession  (seniorate),  and  granted  to  the 
pasha  the  right  of  concluding  non- political  treaties  and 
of  appointing  all  Egyptian  officials  and  officers  up  to  the 
rank  of  colonel.  In  return  the  pasha  was  required  to  pay 
to  the  Porte  an  annual  tribute  of  80,000  purses  (318,930i.). 
During  the  last  years  of  his  life  Mohammed  fell  into  a 
state  of  iml)ecility.  He  died  on  Aug.  2nd,  1849,  in  his 
palace  at  Shubra. 

Ibrd,him  had  already  taken  the  reins  of  government,  in  con- 
sequence of  Mohammed's  incapacity,  in  Jan.,  1848,  tut 
he  died  in  November  of  the  same  year,  before  his  adop- 
tive father. 

'Abb&sl.,  a  son  ofTusun(p.  cxxi),  had  all  the  dislike  of  a  true 
son  of  the  desert  for  European  innovations.  He,  however, 
maintained  the  strictest  discipline  among  his  officials. 

Sa'ld,  his  successor,  was  Mohammed  All's  fourth  son.  He 
equalized  the  incidence  of  taxation,  abolished  jnonopolies, 
completed  the  railways  from  Cairo  to  Alexandiia  and  to 
Suez,  and,  above  all,  zealously  supported  the  scheme  for 
the  Suez  Canal.  During  the  Crimean  war  he  was  oljliged 
to  send  an  auxiliary  army  and  considerable  sums  of 
money  to  the  aid  of  the  Porte.  He  died  in  1863  and  was 
succeeded  by  — 

IsmS-'il,  the  second  son  of  Ibrahim  Pasha  (b.  1830 ).  Isma'il 
had  received  the  greater  part  of  his  education  in  France 
and  had  there  acquired  the  strong  preference  for  European 
institutions  which  characterized  Mm  throughout  his  reign. 
Most  of  his  innovations,  however,  such  as  the  foundation 
of  manufactories  and  the  construction  of  canals,  railways, 
bridges,  and  telegraphs,  vrere  planned  mainly  in  his  own 
interest,  though  of  course  the  country  shared  in  the  ad- 
vantage, while  even  in  the  establishment  of  schools,  there- 
organisation  of  the  system  of  justice  (p.  xx),  and  the  like, 
he  acted  rather  with  an  eye  to  produce  an  impression  in 
Europe  than  from  real  concern  for  the  needs  of  his  subjects. 
As  time  went  on  he  succeeded  in  appropriating  for  Ms  own 
use  about  one-fifth  of  the  cultivable  land  of  Egypt.  In  1866, 
in  consideration  of  a  large  sum  of  money,  he  obtained  the 
sanction  of  the  Porte  to  a  new  order  of  succession  based 


IV.   MODI.liN    HISTORY. 


oil  the  law  of  primogeiiituic,  and  in  1867  he  was  raised  to 
the  rank  of  Khedive,  or  viceroy,  having  previously  horns 
the  title  of  icali,  or  governor  of  a  province  only.  In  1869 
the  Suez  Canal  was  opened  (p.  184).  In  1873  the  Khe- 
dive obtained  a  new  firman  confinning  and  extending  his 
privileges  (independence  of  administration  and  judiciaries; 
right  of  concluding  treaties  with  foreign  countries;  right 
of  coining  money;  right  of  borrowing  money  ;  permission 
to  increase  his  army  to  30,000  men).  The  annual  tribute 
payable  to  the  Porte  was  fixed  at  133,635  purses  (about 
700. 000^).  The  warlike  successes  of  the  Khedive  re- 
sulted in  the  extension  of  his  dominions  to  the  borders 
of  Abyssinia  and.  on  the  S.,  to  the  2nd  parallel  of  N.  lati- 
tude. —  The  burden  of  the  public  debt  had  now  iucreased 
to  upwards  of  100,000, OOOZ.,  one  loan  after  another  hav- 
ing been  negotiated.  The  Powers  brought  such  a  pressure 
to  bear  on  the  Khedive  that  he  was  compelled  to  resign 
his  private  and  family  estates  to  the  state  and  to  accept  a 
ministry  under  the  presidency  of  Nubar  Pasha,  with  the 
portfolio  of  public  works  entrusted  to  M.  Blignieres  and 
that  of  finance  to  Mr.  Rivers  Wilson.  This  coalition,  how- 
ever, soon  proved  unworkable;  and  early  in  1879  the 
whole  cabinet  was  replaced  by  a  native  ministry  under 
Sherif  Pasha.  The  patience  of  the  Great  Powers  was  now 
at  an  end;  and  on  the  initiative  of  Germany  they  de- 
manded from  the  Porte  the  deposition  of  Isma'il.  which 
accordingly  took  place  on  June  26th.  He  died  at  Constan- 
tinople in  1895. 
Isma'il  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Tauflk  (or  Tewfik,  in  the 
Turkish  pronunciation),  under  whom  the  government  was 
carried  on  in  a  more  rational  spirit.  The  debts  were  reg- 
ulated, an  international  commission  of  liquidation  was 
appointed,  and  an  extensive  scheme  of  reform  was  under- 
taken. In  Sept.,  1881,  however,  a  military  revolution 
broke  otit  in  Cairo,  which  had  for  its  chief  object  the 
emancipation  of  Egypt  from  European  influences.  The 
Khedive  was  besieged  in  his  palace  and  had  to  yield;  he 
,'ippointed  Sherif  president  of  a  new  ministry  and  arranged 
for  an  election  of  Notables,  or  representatives.  As  the 
latter  espoused  the  'national'  cause,  Sherif  resigned  in 
Feb.,  1882,  and  Mahmiid  Pasha  formed  a  new  ministry, 
the  soul  of  which  was  Arabi  Bey,  the  energetic  minister 
of  war.  This  cabinet  at  once  proceeded,  without  receiving 
the  consent  of  the  Khedive,  to  pass  several  measures  in- 
tended to  diminish  the  Europein  influence  in  the  politi- 
cal and  financial  administration  of  the  country.  At  the 
end  of  May  the  Briti.';h  and  French  fleets  made  their  ap- 


IV.  MODERN  HISTORY. 

pearance  before  Alexandria.  In  tke  middle  of  June  serious 
disturbances  broke  out  in  that  town,  in  the  course  of  which 
many  Europeans  were  killed,  while  the  others  found  re- 
fuge on  board  the  ships.  On  July  11th  and  12th  Alexandria 
was  bombarded  by  the  British  fleet,  and  on  Sept.  13th 
the  fortified  camp  of  Arabi  at  Tell  el-Kebir  (p.  181)  was 
stormed  by  a  British  force  under  Sir  Garnet  Wolseley. 
Arabi  and  his  associates  were  captured  and  sent  as  exiles  to 
Ceylon.  Since  then  British  influence  has  been  paramount 
in  Egypt.  Arabi,  who  had  been  released  and  pensioned 
in  1901,  died  at  Cairo  in  1911. 

In  1883  Sir  Evelyn  Baring  (afterwards  Lord  Cromer)  be- 
came British  diplomatic  agent  and  consul-general  in 
Egypt.  In  his  hands  lay  the  control  of  British  policy  in  that 
country  and  he  has  won  high  distinction  as  one  of  the 
makers  of  modern  Egypt.  In  the  autumn  of  the  same 
year  a  widespread  rebellion  broke  out  among  the  Nubian 
tribes  of  the  Sudan  under  the  leadership  of  Mohammed 
Ahmed,  the  so-called  'Mahdi'  (p.  xcil,  which  proved  fatal 
to  the  Egyptian  supremacy  in  the  Sudan.  An  Egyptian 
force  of  10,000  men  nrtder  an  Englishman  named  Hicks 
Pasha  was  annihilated  in  Nov.,  1883,  by  the  Mahdi's  for- 
ces (comp.  p.  433),  and  a  second  expedition  of  3500  re- 
gular troops  of  the  Egyptian  army,  led  by  Baker  Pasha, 
was  likewise  vanquished  at  Tokar  in  February,  1884.  On 
the  18th  of  the  same  month  General  Gordon,  wlio  had 
been  Governor  General  of  the  Sudan  in  1877-79,  after  a 
perilous  ride  across  the  desert,  entered  Khartum,  which 
he  had  undertaken  to  save  from  the  Mahdi;  while  on 
Jan.  29th  and  March  13th  the  rebels  under  the  Mahdi's 
lieutenant  Osman  Digna  were  defeated  at  Et-  Teh  and 
Tarnd'i  by  the  British  under  Graham.  The  Mahdi  him- 
self, however,  still  maintained  his  position  near  Khartum, 
and  towards  the  close. of  the  year  a  second  British  expe- 
dition (of  7000  men)  was  sent  out  under  Wolseley  to 
rescue  Gordon. 

Wolseley  selected  the  tedious  and  laborious  Nile  route  for 
this  expedition  in  preference  to  the  shorter  but  more  dan- 
gerous desert  route  from  Suakin  to  Berber.  An  advanced 
brigade  under  General  Stewart  was,  however,  sent  on  from 
Korti  at  the  beginning  of  1885,  which  accomplished  its 
march  across  the  Bayuda  Desert  with  complete  success, 
gaining  severely  contested  victories  over  large  bodies 
of  the  Mahdi's  followers  at  Abu  Klea  (Jan.  17th}  and  at 
Abu  Khrilg,  near  Metemmeh  (Jan.  19th).  Stewart,  how- 
ever, was  mortally  wounded  at  the  latter  engagement.  The 
British  reached  the  Nile  at  Gubat,  just  above  Metem- 


IV.   MODERN  HISTORY.  cxxv 

inch,  on  the  evening  of  Jan.  I'.ith,  and  on  Jan.  24th  a 
small  body  of  men  under  Sir  CLa.-!.  Wilson  set  out  forKhar- 
tilni  in  two  steamboats  which  Gordon  had  sent  to  meet 
them.  Sir  Charles  readied  Khartum  on  the  28th,  but  found 
that  it  had  already  fallen  on  the  2fith,  apparently  through 
treachery,   and  that  Gordon  had  perished  (coinp.  p.  427). 

The  project  of  reconquering  the  Egyptian  Sudan  from  the 
Mahdists  was  temporarily  abandoned,  and  Wadi  Haifa  re- 
mained the  S.  limit  of  the  Khedive's  dominions  (p.  xlvi). 
In  1885  the  Mahdi  died  and  was  succeeded  by  the  Khalifa 
'Abdallah.  - —  Though  Snakin  became  the  basis  of  more  or 
less  desultory  operations  against  Osman  Digna,  the  Bri- 
tish devoted  their  chief  attention  to  developing  and  im- 
proving the  administration  of  Egypt  proper.  Negotiations 
on  the  part  of  the  Porte,  instigated  by  France  and  Russia, 
to  bring  the  British  occupation  of  Egypt  to  a  close,  proved 
fruitless.  A  loan  of  9,000,000/.  was  raised  by  the  British 
for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  Egyptian  finances.  In 
1887  a  convention  with  France  established  the  uncondi- 
tional neutrality  of  the  Suez  Canal. 

The  Khedive  Taufik  died  on  January  7th,  18U2,  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  eldest  son  'Abb&s  II.  Hilmi  (b.  May  29th, 
1874).  His  independence  of  action  is  controlled  by  the 
British  diplomatic  agent  (see  below). 

In  the  spring  of  1890  a  British-Egyptian  military  force  under 
Sir  Herbert  Kit(!hener  (now  Viscount  Kitchener  of  Khar- 
tiim)  commenced  operations  against  the  Mahdists  to  the  S. 
of  Wadi  Haifa.  On  Sept.  2nd,  1898,  the  army  of  the  Khalifa 
'Abdallah  was  defeated  in  a  decisive  engagement  at  Ker- 
reri  (p.  431),  and  Omdurman,  the  Mahdist  capital,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  Khartum,  was  taken.  Since 
then  the  Egyptian  Sudan,  reunited  to  Egypt,  has  been  un- 
der a  special  Anglo-Egyptian  administration  (see  p.  415), 
at  the  head  of  which  is  a  British  Governor-General,  or  Sirdar. 

In  Egypt  itself  numerous  reforms  were  accomplished  by  the 
British  administration,  and,  in  especial,  much  was  done  to 
farther  agriculture  by  the  building  of  light  railways  and 
the  extension  of  the  irrigation  system. 

The  Great  Nile  Dam  of  Assuan  was  opened. 

Anglo-French  understanding  by  which  England  promised  not 
to  alter  the  existing  conditions  in  Egypt,  while  France  gave 
up  all  claim  to  set  any  period  for  the  evacuation  of  Egypt. 

Lord  Cromer,  the  British  diplomatic  agent  (1883-1907), 
resigned  office  and  was  replaced  by  Sir  Eldon  Gorst,  who 
retired  in  1911  and  was  succeeded  by  — 

Viscount  Kitchener  of  Kbartiim  (see  above). 


V.  Hieroglyphics. 

By  I'rofessor  G.  Steindorff. 

Repeated  attempts  were  made  in  the  17th  and  18th  centuries 
to  decipher  the  peculiar  picture-writing  of  the  ancient  Egyptians, 
the  Jesuit  father  Athanasius  Kircher  (1601-80)  being  among  the 
earliest  to  take  up  the  subject.  It  was  not,  however,  until  the  be- 
ginning of  the^l9th  century  that  the  key  was  found,  though  Sacy, 
a  Frenchman,  Akerblad,  a  Swede,  and  Thomas  Young,  the  Englisli 
physicist  (1773-1829),  had  previously  attained  a  certain  amount 
of  success  in  theii  efforts.  Francois  Champollion,  a  Frenchman, 
succeeded  in  1822  in  discovering  the  long-sought  alphabet  from  a 
careful  comparison  of  royal  cartouches,  and  so  found  the  clue  to  the 
principles  of  the  Egyptian  style  of  writing.  Champollion  afterwards 
followed  up  his  initial  discovery  with  such  success  that  he  may  fairly 
rank  as  the  real  interpreter  of  the  Egyptian  hieroglyphics. 

The  first  clue  was  aO'orded  by  the  fauinus  'Rose'ita  Stone'  (now  in  the 
British  Museum),  discovered  in  1799  in  the  Fort  St.  .lulien  at  Eosetta  (p.  31). 
This  tablet  of  basalt  bears  three  inscriptions:  one  in  the  ancient  Egyptian 
language,  written  in  hieroglyphics,  one  in  the  popular  language  of  a 
later  period,  inscribed  in  demotic  characters,  and  a  third  in  Greek ;  but 
the  tvyo  last  are  merely  translations  of  the  first.  The  subject  of  the  triple 
inscription  is  a  decree  of  the  Egyptian  priests  issued  in  196  B.C.  in  honour 
of  Ptolemy  V.  Epiphanes.  The  first  step  towards  deciphering  the  hiero- 
glyphics was  made  when  it  was  ascertained  that  the  frequently  occurring 
groups  of  signs  each  enclosed  in  an  oval  (so-called  cartouche ;  comp.  p.  cxxx) 
were  the  names  of  kings  and  that  the  name  of  Ptolemy  must  be  found 
among  them. 

Champollion  and  his  successors  established  the  phonetic  signi- 
fication of  a  large  number  of  hieroglyphic  characters,  and  it  then  be- 
came possible,  from  a  knowledge  of  Coptic,  the  latest  form  of  the 
ancient  Egyptian  language,  not  only  to  read  but  also  to  interpret 
the  inscriptions.  H.  Brugsch,  who  led  the  way  to  the  complete 
interpretation  of  demotic  texts,  was  also  the  first  to  point  out  that 
in  hieroglyphic  writing,  as  in  the  Semitic  systems  of  writing,  only 
the  consonants  were  inscribed,  while  the  vowels  were  omitted  as 
not  essential. 

The  Egyptian  hieroglyphics  form  a  system  of  picture-writing, 
in  which  concrete  objects  were  originally  expressed  by  pictures  re- 
presenting them  ('i.e.  by  so-called  ideographs) ;  e.g. 

'Face'  hr    '^  'Eye'  yrt  -Oi- 

'Moon'  y'h    /"^^^  'Sun'  r'  Q 

'Pigeon'  wr  "^^  'Plough'  hb'    J^ 

Abstract  ideas  and  verbs  were  represented  on  the  same  principle 
by  the  use  of  pictures  of  objects  suggesting  in  some  sort  the  idea 
to  be  expressed.    Thus  the  idea  'to  rule'  hk''  was  expressed  by  the 

picture  of  a  sceptre  f,  'Upper  Egypt'  sm'  by  a  lily  ^L< ,   its  botanical 

emblem,  'to  write'  sft,  by  ,a  writing  apparatus  H 131  ,  etc. 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS.  oxxvii 

A  great  ailTance  was  made  when  words,  for  which  there  was 
110  special  sign,  began  to  bo  expressed  by  the  pictures  of  other 
and  (lifl'crent  objects,  the  phonetic  significance  of  which,  however, 
happened  to  be  the  same.  Thus,  e.g.,  pr  'to  go  out"  was  expressed  by 
the  picture  of  a  house  L_  J,  because  a  'house'  also  was  called  pr ; 


s'  'son'  by  a   'goose'  n^^  «  ;   ipy  'first'  by  the  sign   U  tp  'dagger'. 

Many  of  these  cliaracters  jiradually  came  to  be  used  torso  many 
diflereut  words  that  their  original  word-signification  was  lost,  and 
they  thenceforth  were  used  as  of  purely  syllabic  value.   Thus,  the 

sign  A^  p\  originally  'to  fly',  was  afterwards  used  for  the  syllable  p' 

in  any  signification;  irr,  originally  'pigeon'  and  afterward^  also  vr 
'great',  was  used  for  any  syllable  i/r.  In  this  way  word-signs  also 
came  to  be  used  as  letters;  e.g.  <dZ>  r  'mouth'  was  used  for  r; 
I  •  I  s  'lake'  for  i;  )  j-'  'serpent'  (t  is  the  feminine  termina- 
tion) for  s;  etc.  ^ 

These  syllabic  and  literal  signs  were  probably  used  at  first 
for  grammatical  purposes  only  (as  suffixes),  but  afterwards,  owing 
to  frequent  ambiguities  in  the  significance  of  the  verbal  signs,  they 
were  used  to  indicate  the  pronunciation  in  each  particular  rase 
and  thus  to  render  the  reading  easier.    Thus  to  the  sign  ^^^  ur 

'great'  a  <CZ>  r  was  frequently  added ,  written  thus  ^^=*  irr, 
in  order  to  indicate  the  pronunciation;  or  "Y"  'nh  'to  live'  was 
followed   by  the  two  explanatory   consonants    /wwv\  n  and   ®  h, 

thus  ■¥*  ^    'nh:  or  v -^  nh  'lord'  was  preceded  by  aaaa^^  n,  thus 

"^^  nb.  Frequently  all  the  consonants  in  a  word  were  written 
instead  of  merely  the  verbal  sign,  thus  []  ®  j\j\J\  '^ht  'field'  in- 
stead of  |1|  iht. 

In  addition  to  these  there  was  another  class  of  hieroglyphics, 
known  as  Determinatives,  which  were  placed  after  the  word  in 
order  to    give   some  hint  as  to  its  meaning.    Thus,  e.g.,   swr  'to 

drink'  is  written  ^s=*  ^A,  with  the  determinative  ^7\  (a  man  with 

his  finger  in  his  mouth)  in  order  to  indicate  that  the  idea  expressed 
bysiurhas  something  to  do  with  the  mouth.  These  determinatives, 
which  greatly  facilitate  the  reading  of  inscriptions,  were  freely  used, 
especially  in  later  hieroglyphic  periods. 

The  hieroglyphic  system,  as  we  find  it  in  the  earlier  Egyptian 
inscriptions,  is  already  complete ;  its  develspment,  briefly  sketched 
above,  had  already  come  to  a  close.  The  following  difi'erent  classes 
of  hieroglyphic  characters  were  used  simultaneously. 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 


1.   Phonetic  Symbols. 

a.  Alpliabetic  Siyns  or  Lelters,  of  which  there  were  24  in  the  earliest 

Egyptian  alphabet. 


(covresponds  to  the  Ar- 
abic klif,  p.  xxix). 

y  (in  many  cases  in  later  in- 
scriptions this  sound  disap- 
pears and  is  replaced  by  a 
simple  breathing  like  '). 

n  '  (a  peculiar  guttural 
breathing,  corresponding  to 
the  Arabic  'Ain  ,   p.  xxix). 

w  (as  in  'vvelT),  u. 


p. 


h    (an    emphasized    h -sound, 
like  the  Arabic  Hd,  p.  xxix). 

h  (kh,  as  'ch'  in  the  Scottish 
'loch'). 
h  (kh,  resembling  the  pre- 
ceding). 


(sh). 

k  (a  sharp  k  -  sound  ,  pro- 
nounced at  the  back  of  the 
throat,  corresponding  to  the 
Arabic  Kaf). 


th  and  sometimes  t  (in  con- 
sequence    of     an    ancient 
change  of  pronunciation), 
d,  I  (a  clear,  sharp  t-sound, 
'  like  the  Arabic   To), 
z  (an  emphasized  s  or  z)  and 
sometimes  { (in  consequence 
"  an  ancient  change  in  pro- 
nunciation). 


yj 


Several  other  alphabetic  signs   were   afterwards  added;   e.g. 
\\  Vt    ^  '")    '  '")    rn  ")  ^t'"-    ^or  the  vowels,  comp.  p.  c.xxvi 


b.  Syllabic  Signs,  of  which  some  of  the  most  important  should 
be  noted. t 
9. 
10. 


15.  K^  hm. 

16.  _^a^  rw. 


t  The  selection  of  syllabic  and  verbal  symbols  here  given  has  been 
made  with  a  view  to  assist  the  traveller  in  deciphering  the  names  of  the 
kings  in  the  list  given  on  pp.  cxxxiii  et  seq. 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS.  cix 

2.  Word  Signs. 
a.  In  their  original  signification. 

1.  O  r',  Sun,  the  sun-god  Re.  ©^ 

9.    V\    f^>'^,  the  god  Horus. 
'~-  -—^'7  ?*'-<,  fore-part;  front.  _^E^ 

3.  /''^^^  y'h,  moon.  'e^  „ 
• '                                               10.      J^     nwti/,  the  t'od  Thout. 

4.  af)   jr'(,  the  goddess  M"t  (A/rtaO- 


11.  c^-y^.  ,'ihk,  the  god  Sobek. 

5.  S^   Sth,  the  god   Seth.  I'i.    f   At',  to  rule  ;  prince. 

.      Q  _  13.    "O"  y's  heart. 

(5.  %M  fl',  the  sun-god  Re. 

^  14.    ^  r,  bull. 

7.  ^     ]'?«»  Cmn),  the  god  Anion.  ^r,     ^^ /]  „j<^  ^  be  sirong. 

/i  g.  IB.    A-«=^  Aw,  to  reign. 

8.  ivn"    «A,   the  ijod  I't.-ih.  "^      ' 
ill        ■  IT.  ^  s6',  star. 

b.  In  their  derived  signification. 

A    "1     wsf    (originally    'sceptre'},  ^.j     r|i   yum  (originally  'column'),  On 

strong.  ^  ■    n  (Holiopolis). 

o    ^    ^'   f'O    (originally    'sacn-d  '^ 

~'    I       '■      pillar'.),  to  remain.  14.         n7r  (orig. 'textile  fabric'),  god. 

Q     (1    fjiH  (originally  'hammer'),  i 

■  V    '  majesty.  1,5.    H  'it  (ovig.  'seat'),  Isis. 

4     ^  J)'''!/  (originally  'chessman'), 

■  U                    strength.  ^      ^,,,  (^^i^,    .^j^j,^^   ,p;,.jt^ 
5.   VJ^    ?'*'   (originally  'hasket  I,  "•     ^'^J^       "  to  shine. 

festival.  -'-1 

G.    W^  f«V,  splendid.  IT.  >CZK  ^'|■l,  the  goddess  Neith. 

7.    \g\^  s'  (oi'ig.  'goose'),  son.  18.    a    ich,  to  add  to. 


o     //  «?/!««  (orig. 'lez  of  an  animal'),  .„     0    Vi  (orig.  'sandal -.strap'),  to 

"•   I  to  repeat.  ^^-  T      "  live. 

9.  J} .sXorig. 'axe'),  to  choose,  ^q    'g^   rwt    (orig.   'bow-string'),   to 

10.   ^^:j  6'  (orig.  'ram'),  soul.  S'"^- 

A<p  (orig.  'table  of  offer-  ~1-   f^'^  «*  (o"^-  'chain'),  gold. 

'ne«'>'  to  be  content.  (^    j^,.  ^^^.j^    .,,eej,e'3^   to  ^^, 

12.     1 1    mr  (orig.  'lake'),  to  love.        ""    w  come,  be,  exist. 

Baedekkk's  l"'gypt.    7th  ICdit.  i 


tx  V.   HIEROGLYPHICS. 

3.  Determinatives. 
E.g.    M^i  man;     ^   woman;    i,  tree; 


Louse;  ©  town; 

'   "^  '  abstract  idea.    To  this  class  belong  also  the  sign  of  the  plural 

III  /    I   J  and  the  oval  ring  C      >  (the  so-railed  'cartouche')  placed 

round  the  names 'of  kings. 

These  various  classes  of  signs ,  wliich  were  used  in  accord- 
ance with  certain  fixed  rules  of  orthography,  were  employed  in 

writing  Egyptian  words;  e.g.  '  '  j  mn,  'to  remain'  (syllabic 
sign  i"""'l  mn ,  sound  aaaaa^  n,  determinative  for  an  abstract 
ideai=±f=3);    r-,"^  s/',   'time'  (—»—«,   D  P,   ©  word-sign  sp).    We 

cannot,  of  course,  pronounce  tliese  words  tliat  are  written  without 
vowels ;  but  in  many  instancfs,  by  the  aid  of  Coptic  (p.  cxxxi)  or  of 
Cuneiform  or  Greek  transliterations  ( especially  in  the  rase  of  proper 
names),  we  learn  what  was  the  pronunciation  at  later  periods,  and  are 
thus  able  to  supply  vowels  to  the  consonantal  skeletons.  We  know, 
e.g. J  that  the  Coptic  for  'time'  is  sop,  and  we  therefore  read  the 
above  hieroglyphic  as  sop.  When,  however,  no  such  guide  is 
obtainable  it  is  the  custom  of  Egyptologists  to  render  the  words 
articulate  by  inserting  an  e;  thus  S^^  /^ ,  'bull'.  Is  read  ke\ 

Hieroglyphics  are  usually  written  from  right  to  left,  sometiaies 
in  perpendicular  rows,  sometimes  in  horizontal  rows;  occasionally, 
but  quite  exceptionally  and  only  for  decorative  purposes,  they 
are  written  from  left  to  right.  For  the  sake  of  convenience  modern 
reproductions  of  hieroglyphics  are  written  or  printed  from  left  to 
right.  It  was  almost  a  matter  of  course  that  both  the  shapes  of  the 
hieroglyphics  and  the  orthography  of  the  words  should  vary  very 
greatly  in  the  course  of  the  thousands  of  years  during  which  the 
system  was  used;  and  with  a  little  trouble  the  traveller  will  soon 
learn  to  distinguish  the  simple  and  bold  characters  of  the  Early 
Empire  from  the  ornate  symbols  of  the  18th  Dyn.  (e.g.  in. the  temple 
at  Abydos)  and  from  the  small  crowded  hieroglyphics  of  the  Ptole- 
maic period. 

When  the  picture  characters  instead  of  being  carved  by  the 
chisel  were  written  with  a  reed-pen  upon  papyrus,  fragments  of 
limestone,  or  wooden  tablets,  they  generally  assumed  a  simpler  and 
more  rounded  form.  In  this  way  arose  a  system  of  Literary  Hiero- 
glyphic, which  we  meet  with  mainly  in  carefully-executed  religious 
manuscripts. 

For  the  purposes  of  ordinary  writings  this  system  was  still 
further  simplified  and  abbreviated  and  for  the  sake  of  speed  the 
separate  characters  were  often  united,   thus  forming  a  Writing  or 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS.  cixxi 

Cursive  i>lyle,  which  is  usually  termed  Ilierntic  Writing.  la  this 
style  the  owl  '^X  m,  which  in  literary  hieroglyphics  (written  from 
right  to  left)  had  the  form 


/y     J^      ,    degenerates   into  y 


outline  scarcely  recognizable  as  that  of  an  owl.  In  hieratic  writing 
we  possess  literary  works  of  almost  every  kind  except  dramas.  — 
Further  abbreviations  and  amalgamations  of  letters  developed  an- 
other cursive  style  from  the  hieratic,  viz.  the  Enchorial  or  Demotic, 
which  was  the  ordinary  character  employed  in  the  Graco-Roman 
period.  The  sign  of  the  owl,  for  example,  was  curtailed  to  ^.  This 
writing  was  chiefly  used  for  contracts,  accounts,  letters,  and  similar 
documents,  whence  it  was  sometimes  termed  the  Epistolographic, 
or  'epistolary  character',  by  the  Greeks. 

During  the  second  century  after  Christ  Egyptian  magical  formul<'R 
were  frequently  written  in  Greek  characters;  and  after  the  intro- 
duction of  Christianity  it  became  the  universal  custom  to  write  the 
Egyptian  translations  of  the  Scriptures  in  the  simpler  Greek  letters 
instead  of  in  the  inconvenient  hieroglyphics,  which  were  at  the 
same  time  more  diflicult  to  learn.  But  as  the  Greek  alphabet  was 
not  adequate  to  represent  all  the  Egyptian  sounds  (e.g.  s/j,  f,  kh,  eti-. ) 
seven  supplementary  symbols  ^  were  borrowed  from  the  demotic. 
Thus  arose  the  Coptic  Writing  of  the  Egyptian  Christians. 

The  use  of  hieroglyphics  extended  beyond  the  borders  of  Egypt, 
especially  into  Nubia,  where  thry  were  employed  in  the  temples 
built  by  the  Pharaohs.  And  even  after  the  Nubian -Ethiopian 
kingdom  bei-ame  imlependent  of  Egypt  in  the  8th  cent.  B.C., 
hieroglyphics  siill  continvied  to  be  used  there.  At  first,  however, 
only  inscriptions  in  the  Egyptian  language  were  thus  written ;  some 
time  elapsed  before  hieroglyphics  were  adapted  to  the  native  lan- 
guage, which  was  allied  to  the  modern  Nubian  tongue.  In  the 
course  of  this  adaptation  various  formal  modifications  took  place, 
resulting  in  a  Mero'itic  Hieroylypliic  System,  which  has  not  as  yet 
been  fully  deciphered.  In  the  post-Christian  era  a  Mero'itic  Cursive 
Style  also,  probably  based  on  the  demotic,  was  developed  (comp. 
p.  386).    This  also  has  only  partly  been  deciphered. 

The  following  hints  will  be  of  service  to  those  who  may  try  to 
decipher  any  of  the  kings'  names  with  the  aid  of  the  foregoing 
lists,  consulting  first  the  list  of  phonetic  symbols,  then  that  of 
the  verbal  signs.  The  Egyptian  kings  frequently  had  several 
names,  the  two  most  important  of  which,  viz.  the  official  name 
and  the  individual  name,   are  enclosed  within  the  cartouche.    The 

official  name  is  preceded  by  the  title  ^pi^  n-s'ict  bity,  'King  of 

t  UI  «A,  «  /,  S5  tti,  o  h,  (^  g  (not  identical  with  the  Greek  y))  "ZS.  «, 
ilj,  and  the  syllabic  ■^  li. 


cxxxii  V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 

Upper  and  Lower  Kgypt',  and  frequently  also  by  .,  ...  ■  neb  tev)y, 
'lord  of  both  lands'  (p.  xcix),  or  v_^  ,  | ,  neb  he'w,  'lord  of  the 
diadems'.    The  title    ^x^  s'  -B'  (se'  Re'),  'son  of  the  sun',  is  an  ad- 


dition to  the  individual  or  hirth  name.  Thutmosis  III.,  for  ex- 
ample, a  king  of  the  18th  Dyn.,  was  named  — 

The  former  is  his  official  name,  assumed  at  his  accession  to  the 
throne,  the  latter  his  individual  name.  O  is  the  original  word-sign 
(No.  1}  r',  'sun,  sun-god  Re';  i"""'i  is  the  syllabic  sign  [No.  l)rrm, 

liere,  however,  standing  for  'to  remain' ;  M  is  the  transferred  word- 
sign  (No.  22)  hpr,  'to  become,  to  be'.  The  first  name  therefore  is 
R'-mn-hpr,  or,  rather,  as  the  words  signifying  god  or  king  are  written 
first  out  of  reverence  merely,  mn-hpr-R',  'remains  the  being  of  Re' 
(vocalized  Men-heper-Re%  or,   according  to  the  system  described 

below,    Men-lcheper-Re).     In    the   second  cartouche    -^^  is   the 

original  word-sign  (No.  10)  Thivty,  'the  ibis-god  Thout';  ^^  and 
\\  are  the  letters  t  and  y,  indicating  the  final  syllable  of  Thivty; 

m  is  the  syllabic  sign  (No.  5)  ins;  and  u  the  letter  s,  added  to  show 

the  sound  of  ms.  The  whole  is  thus  Thwiy-mi  {i.e.  'the  god  Thout 
lias  created'),  corresponding  to  the  Greek  Thutmosis,  and  probably 
to  be  vocalized  Thut-mose. 

It  may  here  be  remarked  that  the  Egyptian  names  oicurring  in 
the  Handbook  are  usually  written  in  the  traditional  Greek  form 
and  not  in  the  native  Egyptian;  e.g.  Sethos  instead  of  Sthy,  Klieops 
(Cheops)  instead  of  Hxofw  (Khwfio  or  Khufu).  For  names,  however, 
of  which  the  Egyptian  forms  are  more  familiar,  or  of  which  there 
are  no  known  Greek  transliterations,  the  Egyptian  forms  have  been 
retained,  with  vowels  inserted  on  the  principles  explained  above. 
In  these  cases,  however,  the  diacritical  signs  are  omitted,  so  that  no 
difference  is  made  between  t  and  t,  z  and  s,  k  and  fc,  h  and  h;  w  is 
sometimes  represented  by  u;  y  by  i;  h  and  h  by  kh;  «'by  s;  and  in 
certain  cases  y  is  altogether  omitted.  The  apostrophes  '  and  '  are 
uniformly  omitted.  In  short,  the  general  rules  adopted  by  the 
Greeks  for  the  transliteration  of  Egyptian  words  are  followed. 


V.   HIEKOGLYPUICS- 


4.    Frequently  Becurring  Cartouches  of  Egyptian  Kings,  t 
Kliefre         Men 


Snoti-u. 

(Meues).      ^ >,      (Kheops).   phren).      (Myke-        / \      /" V 

4.  rinos).4.    /  \     (  \ 


1. 


ij^u^ 


n 


i^y^\±J 


Nuserre. 
5. 


U 
,    UU 

v_y  v_y  v_y  v_y 


o 

AAftAAA 

1P 


Ease.  5.       Unis 
(Onnos). 
5. 


A/-yV\AA 


Teti       Merenre     „     .      Nefer-ke-re    Entef.      Mentu-  .  ,-4t    io 

(Othoes).    (Methu-     Pepi     (phiopg  n.)        u.       hotep.   11.  Amenemhet  I.  U. 

6.         suphis).  (Pliiops).'         g.  ^ <^     ^-i~«.  

6.  b  X---V      f  \f         ^ 


r^ 


^^^^-=^ 


Senwosret 
(Sesostris)  I.  12. 


Senwosret  Senwosret 

Amenemhet  n.   12.      (Sesostris)  II.  12.     (Sesostvis)  UI.  12. 


Q 


1P 


o 
UU 

u 


r^^^^^ 


Amenemhet  III.  12. 


o 

AAAAAA 


L-^ 


V z 


Amenemhet  IV.  12. 

G 


t  The  Arabic  numbers  place'l  after  the  names  are  those  of  the  difTerent 
Dynasties.  Where  two  cartouchps  are  jjivon  the  first  cdntains  the  official 
cognomen  assumed  by  the  king  on  his  accession,  while  the  second  is  his 
individual  or  birth  name. 


V.  HIEHOGLYPHICS. 


Royal 


Seken-  Ahmojie  (Amo-  Amenhotep  (Amen-  Thutniose  (Thut- 

yenre.16.  sis).  17.  ophis)  I.  17.  mosis)  I.  18. 


AA/VVV\ 


,^  w 


(fiP 


o 


u 


^  D 


V^!b ^ 


Kemare 
Hatshepsut.  18.        Thutmosis  II.  18.     Thutmosis  III.  18.     Amenophis  II.   18. 


Amenophis  IV. 
Thutmosis  IV.  18.     Amenophis  III.  18.     (Ekh-en-Aton).  18. 


Haremheb  (Ilar- 
niais).  18. 


Cartouches. 

Merenptali 
(Amenephthes).  19. 


•f=T 


M 


1 — I 


Kamses  VII.(Lepsias, 
Kamses  IV.   20.  Ramses  V.   20.        Ramses  VI.   20.     Ramses  VIII.)  20. 


Ramsei 

Q 

V 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 


Setliy  (Sethos)  II.  19. 


cxxxv 

Ramses  III.    20. 


Q  d 


D 


LJ 


)^^ 


o 


W 


IvamsesVIU.  (Leps.,  Ramses  X.  (Leps.,   Ramses  XI.  (Leps., 

Ramses  XI.)  20.  Ramses  IX.   20.        Ramses  VII.)  20.      Ramses  X.)  20. 


[I.  (Leps. 
i.1.)  20. 


a 


'I 


1 — I 


AAAAA/\  III    I        1 


Q 


^ 


r-^ 


e 


0 


r-> 


s 


nfl^^ 


Ramses  XII.  (Lep.s.,       Shoslienk  (Se.sonchis)  I.   22. 
Ramses  XIII.)   20.      ^^        ,,,,,,,     <>  f  ^    aaaaaa 

V   .. vA     f|  .!=  2iJ 


o 


Q 


^ 


Osorkdii  I.    22. 


^    l!ekenranf 


(Bocchoris). 
24. 


\ 


^ 


Takelothis  I.    22. 


"> 

^ 


^^     ^=^   <=^ 

_/j         AAAAAA       >t_^y] 


Shabako  (Sabakon).  25. 


I      AW/W\     (1 


S 


a^u 


3 


V.   HIEROGLYPHICS. 


Royal 


Taharka  (Tirhakah).  25.  Psametik  (Psam-      Nekaw     Psametik  (Psam- 
metichos)  I.  26.  (Necho).  26.   metichos)  II.  26. 


G 


Queen  Anienertais. 


AftAAAA 


±i_L] 


Weh-eb-re 

(Apries.  Uapliris. 

Hophrah).  26. 


II. 

26. 


v_J 


k-J 


\^\ z 


Kheshye- 
Kambizet       Entaryush  resh 

Alimose  11  (Camhyses).       (Darius).        (Xer.xes). 

(Amasis).    26.  27.  27.  27. 


J    fl 


V-^    v_^    v_y 


-2^ 


Neklit-Har-ehbet  Nekhte-nebof 

(Nektanebes).  30.  (Nektanebos).  30. 


Alexander  Philippus 

the  Great.  Arrhidjeus. 


m 


r^ 


T=^ 


f.—O 


Ptulmis  (Ptolemy  I.  Soter  I.). 


Ptolemy  II.    I'hiladelpbus  I 

A  \^  I        I  1  AAAA 


J 


D    Us   .^ 


J 


^^e^flflT) 


Cartouchea. 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 


Queen 
Arsinoe. 


Ptolemy  III.   Euer- 
getes  I. 


-<2>- 


V 


Oi 


111 


*^ 


f] 


_g:^ 


Queen 
Berenice. 


Ptolemy  IV.  Philo- 
pator  I. 


f 


f] 


_£3C. 


11 


I'tolemy  V.    Kpi- 
phanes. 


r~^, 


ci  I  ci 

T=T 


iTp 

V ^ 


I'tolemy  VI. 
Pbilometor. 


nil 


^  o 


Ptolemy  IX.  Euerge- 
tes  II.   (Phyakon). 


rii 

AA/NAAA 

D 


'i  1 


If] 


llfl 


V J 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 


RoyaL 


_gaE. 


Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II. 

(ir  Philometor  II., 

usually  known 

as  Latbyrns. 


Cleopatra  VI.,  with  C8esarion, 

her  son  by  Csesar  and  nominal 

co-regent. 


—  o 


A 
(^    D 


0- 


O      I 


_2^ 

(2    a= 


(3^ 


_23& 


\ I 


Autokrator 
(absolute  mon- 
arch) and  Kai- 
saros  (Cffisar). 
Epithets  of  all 
the  emperors. 


'^:^\^ 


Csesar 
Augustus.  Tiberius. 


Q 


°|ji: 


' — < 


Caius  Ca-  Claudius 

ligula.  (Tiberius). 

A 


(3     o, 


\'\ 


^ 


Cartouches 


V.  HIEROGLYPHICS. 


Nero.  Vespasian. 


D    W 


LJ 


i_5y 

G 


Domi 
tian. 


Traian.  Hadrian. 

r-^   r-^  r~^ 


^:q 


0   ^ 


0    ^ 


!^^    !^-^ 


,0^ 


AAA/WA 

^  w 

© 


V_^ 


Antoninus 
Pius. 

"18 


JP] 


^P 

*    (^ 


AA/WV 

^  w 


51  arc  US 
Aureliufl.         Coiumodus. 


AAAA/VA 


f 


V > 


^X7 


A D 


X7  D 


O 


Antoninus 
Severus.        (Oaracalla).         Geta. 


AAAAAA 

^  w 

© 


0 


/V\AAA^ 


© 


AAA/WV 

'^  w 

© 


L-J   LJ 


Deoius. 


© 


k-^ 


cxl 


VI.  Religion  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians. 

By  Pfofetior  G.  Steindorff. 

In  spite  of  the  numerous  religious  inscriptions  and  represent- 
ations that  have  come  down  to  us  from  Egyptian  antiquity  our 
knowledge  of  the  Egyptian  religion  is  still  comparatively  slight.  We 
are  indeed  acquainted  with  the  names  and  aspects  of  many  deities, 
and  we  know  in  what  temples  they  were  worshipped,  hut  of  the  true 
essence  of  these  deities,  of  the  particular  significance  attributed  to 
them  by  priests  and  people,  of  the  myths  attached  to  the  personality 
of  each,  we  know  very  little.  The  Egyptians  themselves  never  evolved 
a  clear  and  complete  religions  system.  Their  faith  accepted  the  most 
glaring  incongruities;  and  no  attempt  was  made  to  harmonize  pop- 
ular credulity  with  the  esoteric  wisdom  of  the  priests,  or  to  recon- 
cile tradition  with  later  accretions. 

The  complicated  religion  which  the  texts  of  later  times  make 
known  to  us  did  not  exist  in  prehistoric  days.  Originally  the  country 
was  divided  into  a  number  of  town  and  village  communes,  each  one 
of  which  had  its  own  protecting  deity  or  'town  god'.  We  know  many 
of  these  local  deities,  without,  however,  being  able  to  assert  posi- 
tively their  original  locality.  Among  them  were  Horus^  who  was 
worshipped  in  Buto,  the  ancient  capital  of  Lower  Egypt,;  Thout, 
the  patron  deity  of  Hermopolis ;  Osiris,  originally  worshipped  at 
Busiris  in  the  Delta;  the  gods  Ptah  of  Memphis, '.ffera/ie/' of  Hera- 
cleopolis,  Atum  of  Ileliopolis,  Sobek,  who  was  worshipped  in  the 
Faiyiim ,  etc.  Frequently  there  are  goddesses  also  who  appear  as 
protecting  divinities  of  places :  e.g.  Neith,  worshipped  in  Sa'is,  and 
Hathor  of  Dendera.  These  local  deities  have  often  lost  their  ori- 
ginal names,  and  in  many  eases  were  known  only  by  some  attribute 
or  some  legendary  name.  Thus,  e.g.,  the  lion  -  goddess  who  was 
worshipped  in  the  vicinity  of  Memphis  was  known  as  Sekhmet,  i.e. 
'the  mighty';  the  god  worshipped  in  Assitit  in  the  form  of  a  wolf 
was  named  Wep-wawet,  the  'Path  Opener',  probably  because  his 
image,  borne  in  the  van  of  the  troops,  led  the  way  into  the  enemy's 
country;  the  local  deity  of  This  was  called  Enhuret  (Greek  Onuris), 
'he  who  fetched  the  distant  one',  probably  because  according  to  an 
ancient  legend  he  was  said  to  have  brought  a  lion-goddess,  who  was 
worshipped  along  with  him,  from  a  foreign  land.  Other  local  deities 
came  to  be  called  after  the  town  to  which  they  belonged.  Thus  the 
cat-goddess  of  the  town  of  Bast  (Bubastis),  in  the  Delta,  was  known 
as  Bastet,  i.e.  'she  of  Bast',  while  the  goddess  of  Nekhab  (El-Kab) 
was  called  Nekhbeyet,  or  'she  of  Nekhab'. 

The  ancient  Egyptians  originally  represented  these  deities  to 
themselves  under  very  crude  forms,  which  recall  the  fetishism  still 
prevailing  among  uncivilized  African  tribes  at  the  present  day. 
Thus  Osiris  of  Bnsiris  (Tetu)  was  belif  ved  to  dwell  in  a  post,  and 
the  god  Min  of  Koptos  was  worsliipped  under  a  similar  form.    In 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  REMOION.  oxil 

tlie  saim-.  wjiy  a  sycamore  tree  was  believed  to  be  the  aboile  ol'  the 
goddess  Hathor,  wlio  belonged  to  the  district  to  the  S.  of  Memphis, 
while  the  god  Neferlan  was  worshipped  in  the  form  of  a  lotus  flower, 
and  the  goddess  Neith,  of  Sais,  as  a  bundle  of  arrows.  But  the  belief 
that  gods  chose  animals  as  their  abode  and  revealed  themselves  in 
the  form  of  animals  was  much  more  generally  spread;  cows,  bulls, 
rams,  goats,  crocodiles,  cats,  lions,  ichneumons,  frogs,  certain  kinds 
of  fishes,  ibises,  falcons,  vultures  were  all  believed  to  be  thus  chosen 
by  one  or  other  god.  Thus  the  god  Khnum  was  represented  as  a  ram, 
Horus  as  a  falcon,  Thout  as  an  ibis,  Sobek  as  a  crocodile,  the  goddess 
Nekhbeyet  as  a  vulture,  the  goddess  of  Bubastis  as  a  cat,  Hathor  of 
Dendera  as  a  cow,  the  local  goddess  of  Athribisasaserpeut,  andsoon. 

Besides  the  local  deities  who  were  worshipped  in  the  form  of 
animals  there  were  special  sacred  animals,  distinguished  by  certain 
markings,  which  were  worshipped  from  a  very  early  period.  These 
were  kept  in  the  temple  ,  and  after  their  death  they  were  interred 
with  all  hoi\our,  while  theirplace  in  the  temple  Mas  taken  by  another. 
The  best  known  example  of  this  worship  is  afforded  by  the  Apis, 
the  sacred  bull,  worshipped  at  Memphis.  It  was  black  with  white 
spots;  on  the  forehead  it  bore  a  white  triangle  and  on  the  right  flank 
a  crescent.  Similarly  a  light-coloured  bull  ('Afnevis^  was  worshipped 
at  Hcliopolis,  at  Hermonthis  the  bull  Bucftjs  was  sacred,  as  was  the 
heron  Phoenit  at  IJeliopolis.  These  sacred  animals  were  connected 
with  the  local  deities;  the  Apis  was  thus  considered  to  be  the  'liv- 
ing replica  of  Ptah',  the  Phoenix  the  'soul  of  the  sun-god'.  At  a 
later  period,  the  worship  of  sacred  animals  was  carried  further.  Not 
only  were  these  individual  'sacred'  animals  revered  as  holy,  but 
also  all  the  animals  in  which  the  local  deities  inhered.  One  or  more 
of  these  animals  was  preserved  in  the  temple,  and  all  others  of  the 
same  kind,  none  of  which  might  be  killed  within  the  region  sacred  to 
them,  were  solemnly  interred  in  special  cemeteries  when  they  died. 
The  cat-cemeteries  ol  Bubastis  and  Benihasan,  tlie  crocodile-graves 
of  Ombos,  the  ibis-graves  of  Ashmunein,  etc.,  date  from  this  late 
epoch  of  exaggerated  animal- worship,  it  was  probably  only  this 
excessive  expansion  of  animal -worship  that  struck  the  Greeks  in 
Egypt  as  remarkable.  For  traces  of  a  similar  worship  were  common 
to  various  oriental  peoples,  and  even  among  the  Greeks  and  Romans 
themselves  certain  animals  were  regarded  as  sacred  to  the  gods,  as, 
e.g.,  the  lions  of  Cybele,   the  owl  of  Athena,  and  the  eagle  of  Zeus. 

A  stage  beyond  fetishism  was  reached  when  the  Egyptians,  in  the 
beginning  of  the  historical  period,  began  to  form  an  anthropomorphic 
conception  of  their  deities.  The  gods  had  human  faces  and  forms 
and  wore  clothing  such  as  the  Egyptians  themselves  wore.  Like 
princes,  they  wore  on  their  heads  helmets  or  crowns,  and,  like  the 
prima;val  rulers,  they  had  tails  fastened  to  the  back  of  their  aprons. 
They  bore  the  sceptre  or  the  commander  s  baton  as  the  symbol 
of  their  might.    The  deities  that  were  conceived  of  as  animals  now 


cxlii  VI:    EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 

received  huiuaii  figures,  with  the  heads  of  the  animals  in  which  they 
revealed  themselves.  Thus  Sobek  appears  as  a  man  with  a  crocodile's 
head,  Khnum  with  a  ram's  head,  Thout  with  an  ibis's  head,  Horus 
with  a  falcon's  heart ,  etc.  The  various  Cow  Goddesses  have  a 
human  head  with  cow's  horns,  while  over  the  vulture  goddess 
Mut  (worshipped  in  Thebes)  a  vulture  spreads  its  wings,  and  the 
head  of  Neith  of  Sais  was  adorned  with  a  bundle  of  arrows,  which 
was  the  form  in  which  she  was  worshipped.  Though  such  a  device 
cannot  but  appear  strange  to  us  as  it  did  to  the  Greeks,  it  must 
be  confessed  that  the  Egyptian  artists  in  their  reliefs  and  statues 
of  those  animal  -  headed  deities  managed  the  transition  from  the 
animal's  head  to  the  human  body  with  remarkable  skill. 

Besides  the  local  deities,  whose  spheres  of  influence  were  limited 
to  particular  districts,  there  were  even  in  the  earliest  times  a  certain 
number  of  universal  deities,  who  were  revered  by  the  whole  nation. 
Among  these  were  the  god  Keb  (the  earth),  the  goddess  Nut  (the 
sky),  the  god  t'^liow  (the  air),  the  goddess  Tefnitl  (the  dew),  the  sun- 
god  Be,  a  masculine  deity  with  the  Egyptians  as  with  the  Greek-; 
(Helios),  Hapi  (the  Nile),  and  Nun  (the  ocean);  among  the  stars 
Orion  and  Sothis  (Sirius  or  the  Dog  Star,  a  female  deity)  played  the 
leading  roles.  These  were  all  impersonal  beings,  who  revealed  them- 
selves only  in  natural  phenomena;  they  were  therefore  not  confined 
to  any  particular  place  of  worship,  but  were  everywhere  revered.  Only 
at  a  later  period,  though  still  in  prehistoric  times,  did  these  forces 
of  nature,  the  great  gods  of  heaven,  receive  human  forms  and  special 
places  of  worship.  Thus  the  sun-god  Re  came  to  be  specially  wor- 
shipped at  Ileliopolis,  and  the  divine  couple  Show  and  Tefnut  as  lion- 
headed  deities  at  Leontoiipolis  (p.  171). 

Already  at  an  early  period  the  religious  conceptions  regarding 
many  of  the  gods  were  deepenetl  or  expanded,  as  certain  character- 
istics became  especially  emphasized.  Thus,  e._^.,  the  falcon-headed 
Mont,  the  local  god  of  Ilermonthis,  was  a  war-god;  the  god  Min  of 
Koptos,  where  the  desert  road  across  the  mountains  from  the  Red  Sea 
joins  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  became  the  patron  deity  of  travellers  in 
the  desert,  then  also  a  god  of  fertility,  whence  the  Greeks  identified 
him  with  Pan;  Ptah  of  Memphis  was  the  patron  of  artists,  metal- 
workers, and  smiths,  and  was  thus  the  Egyptian  Hephaestos;  the 
pov/eiiul  Sekhmet  of  Memphis  became  a  terrible  war-goddess,  who 
annihilated  the  enemy ,  while  on  the  other  hand  stress  was  laid  on 
the  more  attractive  attributes  of  Ilathor  of  Dendera,  who  was  wor- 
shipped as  the  goddess  of  love  and  joy  (resembling  Aphrodite).  Many 
local  deities  were  connected  with  the  moon  and  the  sun  and  other 
cosmic  powers.  Thus  Thout  of  Herraopolis  was  regarded  as  a  moon- 
god,  who  had  created  the  times  of  day  and  the  cosmic  universe;  he 
was  the  inventor  of  hieroglyphic  writing  and  therefore  the  patron 
deity  of  scribes  and  scholars.  Above  all  Horus  was  transformed  into 
a  god  of  the  heavens  in  connection  with  the  sun  and  received  the 


VT.  EGYt»TIAN  RELIGION.  cxliit 

name  of  Jtc-Harakhte,  i.e.  'the  sun,  the  Horns  who  is  on  the  horizoir. 
The  cow-goddess  Uathor  (whose  name  means  'House  of  Horus)  be- 
came a  goddess  of  the  heavens.  .Many  local  deities  came  to  be  wor- 
shipped all  over  the  country  under  these  particular  characteristics. 

Finally  there  was  also  a  considerable  number  of  lesser  deities, 
dsemons,  and  spirits,  who  exercised  influence  over  human  beings, 
helping  or  harming  at  particular  junctures,  and  who  therefore 
must  be  propitiated.  Among  these  rank,  for  example,  the  different 
Goddesses  of  Childbirth,  who  assisted  women  and  could  either  cut 
short  or  protract  their  pangs;  the  grotesque  god  Bes,  the  protector 
of  the  marriage  chamber  and  of  women  in  childbirth;  various  God- 
desses of  the  Harvest,  etc.  At  a  later  period  unusually  distinguished 
mortals,  revered  after  death  as  saints,  gradually  came  to  be  included 
among  the  gods,  as,  e.g.,  /m/iofff  of  Memphis  (p.  cli),  Amenhottp, 
the  son  of  Hapu,  etc. 

Like  human  beings  the  god  frequently  had  a  wife  and  a  sou, 
and  in  that  case  this  so-called  Iriad  dwelt  and  was  worshipped  in 
one  temple.  Divine  families  of  this  kind  are  exemplified  in  Ptah, 
with  his  wife  Sehhmet  and  his  sou  Xefertem,  and  by  Osiris,  /.<t5, 
and  Horus.  The  theologians  of  the  holy  city  of  On  (Heliopolis)  even 
created  a  ninefold  group  (Entiecd)  of  gods,  at  the  head  of  which 
stood  Atum,  the  local  deity  of  the  city.  Atum  was  attended  by  the 
four  cosmogonic  ileities  Shoiv,  his  wife  Tefnut,  Keh,  and  fsut  (p.  cxlii). 
The  number  nine  was  made  up  by  Osiris,  his  wife  7s«\<,  Seth  (the 
ancient  god  nf  Upper  Egypt  and  the  legendary  antagonist  of  Osiris; 
see  below),  and  his  wife  Nephth^js.  The  worship  of  the  nine  gods  be- 
came so  popular  that  it  was  adopted  in  many  different  localities, 
the  place  of  Atum  being  taken  by  the  chief  local  god  in  each. 

Human  passions  and  virtues  were  attributed  to  the  gods;  and 
numerous  tales  wore  told  by  the  faithful  of  the  divine  exploits  and 
adventures.  Unfortunately  most  of  these  myths  have  perished;  of 
the  few  that  have  come  down  to  us  the  best  known  is  the  story  of 
Osiris,  which  in  autiquity  also  was  one  of  the  most  widely  spread. 
Osiris  ruled  as  king  over  I''gypt  and  the  country  enjoyed  the  bless- 
ings of  prosperity.  But  Seth,  his  wicked  brother,  conspired  against 
him,  and  at  a  bauquet  persuaded  him  to  enter  a  cunningly  wrought 
chest,  which  he  and  his  seventy-two  accomplices  then  closed  and 
threw  into  the  Nile.  The  river  carried  the  chest  down  to  the  sea, 
and  the  waves  at  length  washed  it  ashore  near  the  Phoenician  Byblos. 
Meanwhile  Isis  roamed  in  distress  throughout  the  world,  seeking 
her  lost  husband;  and  she  at  length  succeeded  in  discovering  his 
coffin,  which  she  carried  to  Egypt  and  there  mourned  over  her  hus- 
band in  solitude.  She  then  buried  the  coffin  before  going  to  visit 
her  son  Horus,  who  was  being  brought  up  at  Ihito.  During  her 
absence  Seth,  while  engaged  in  a  boar-hunt,  found  the  body  of  his 
brother,  cut  it  into  fourteen  pieces,  and  scattered  them  in  every 
direction.     As  soon  as  Isis  learned  what  had  happened  she  songht 


cxliv  VI.    EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 

Tor  the  fragments,  and  wherever  one  was  found  she  bnried  it  and 
erected  a  monument  on  the  spot  to  its  memory;  and  this  accounts 
for  the  numerous  tombs  of  Osiris  mentioned  as  existing  in  Kgypt 
and  elsewhere.  When  Horus  grew  up  he  set  out  to  avenge  his 
father's  murder,  and  after  terrible  contests  was  at  last  victorious. 
According  to  other  accounts  the  combatants  were  separated  by  Thout. 
They  then  divided  the  country,  the  S.  of  Egypt  falling  to  Horus  and 
the  N.  to  Seth.  Osiris  was  afterwards  magically  restored  to  life  by 
Horus  and  continued  to  rule  the  W.  land  as  king  of  the  dead. 

Among  the  Egyptians  as  with  other  peoples  the  speculations 
about  the  origin  of  the  world,  the  movements  of  the  heavenly  bodies, 
and  the  alternation  of  day  and  night  were  closely  bound  up  with 
their  religion.  Their  conception  of  the  world  reveals  the  limited 
geographical  horizon  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  They  regarded  the 
earth  as  a  huge  oval  plain,  floating  upon  the  ocean.  From  one  end 
to  the  other  it  was  traversed  by  a  broad  stream,  the  Nile,  which 
flows  out  of  the  ocean  on  the  S.  or  rises  from  two  springs  near  the 
cataracts  of  Assuan.  All  around  rose  high  mountains,  and  the  sky 
was  pictured  as  a  flat  slab  resting  upon  four  mountains,  with  the 
stars  hanging  from  it  like  lamps.  Another  view  was  that  the  sky 
had  the  same  form  as  the  earth,  and  was  traversed  by  a  river  and 
intersected  by  numerous  canals ;  and  under  the  earth  there  was  be- 
lieved to  be  an  underworld,  called  Twet,  which  was  exactly  like  the 
sky  and  the  earth  and  was  peopled  by  the  dead.  After  the  cow-god- 
dess Hathor  had  become  a  goddess  of  the  heavens  (see  p.  cxliii)  the 
sky  was  sometimes  conceived  of  as  a  cow,  with  the  sun  seated  be- 
tween its  horns  illuminating  the  world.  Another  view  was  that  the 
sun  sailed  in  a  boat  by  day  on  the  cow,  as  on  the  ocean  of  the  sky, 
while  the  stars  were  represented  on  the  body  of  the  cow ;  Show,  the 
god  of  the  air,  stood  below  the  cow  of  the  heavens  and  supported  it. 

The  sun  and  the  moon,  the  principal  heavenly  bodies,  were  in 
particular  the  subject  of  many  theories,  probably  representing  the 
teachings  of  the  different  colleges  of  priests  throughout  the  country. 
A  very  early  idea  represented  the  sun  and  moon  as  the  eyes  of  the 
great  god  who  created  the  world.  At  the  same  time  this  great  god  is 
no  other  than  the  sun-god  Ke  himself,  so  that  we  have  the  contra- 
dictory idea  that  the  incorporation  of  the  sun  (Re)  had  the  sun  as  an 
eye.  When  Horus  became  a  sun-god  the  sun  and  moon  were  con- 
sidered to  be  his  eyes.  In  one  way  or  another  the  eye  of  the  sun 
played  a  very  important  part  in  Egyptian  mythology.  It  was  thought 
of  as  a  sun  and  was  transformed  into  an  independent  goddess  pro- 
ceeding from  the  sun-god.  With  this  eye  of  the  sun  are  identified 
the  serpent-goddess  Buto,  of  Lower  Egypt,  and  afterwards  other  god- 
desses also,  such  as  the  lion- headed  Tefnut  and  the  cow -goddess 
Hathor.  The  eye  of  the  sun  was  sometimes  thought  of  as  a  poisonous 
serpent  (uraeus  serpent)  rearing  itself  on  the  forehead  of  the  sun-god 
and  breathing  fire  against  his  enemies.    This  idea  gave  rise  to  the 


VJ.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION.  cxlv 

custom  adopted  by  the  kings  of  Egypt  of  wearing  the  uraeus  serpent 
as  a  diadem  or  as  an  ornament  in  their  crowns.  —  Another  concep- 
tion identified  the  sun  with  the  sun-god  Re,  who,  in  the  guise  of  an 
Egyptian  fisherman,  sailed  in  a  boat  on  the  waters  of  the  sky  b>  day, 
and  in  the  evening  stepped  into  another  boat  and  continued  his  voyage 
through  the  underworld.  As  the  sun-god  Re-IIarakhte  was  a  falcon 
the  sun  was  sometimes  regarded  as  a  brilliantly  plumaged  falcon 
soaring  in  the  firmament ;  or  like  Horus  the  sun  was  a  powerful  young 
hero,  waging  a  ceaseless  combat  with  the  hostile  powers  of  darkness. 
It  was  conceived  of  also  under  the  form  of  a  Sairabaeus  or  beetle 
(p.  clxxvli);  the  sun-god  was  represented  in  the  form  of  a  scara- 
baeus  rolling  the  round  disk  of  the  sun  in  front  of  him,  in  the  same 
way  as  a  scarabaeus  rolls  the  small  ball  in  which  it  has  laid  its  egg. 

The  Egyptians  of  course  did  not  believe  that  the  world,  the  gods, 
and  human  beings  had  always  existed ,  but  that  they  were  created. 
The  most  widespread  belief  was  that  Keb^  the  god  of  the  earth,  and 
Nut.  the  goddess  of  the  sky,  lay  in  close  union  in  Nun,  the  primaeval 
ocean,  until  Show,  the  god  of  the  air.  separated  them  by  raising  Nut 
aloft  in  his  arms.  The  sun-god  Re  also  was  supposed  to  have  arisen 
from  Nun ;  another  view,  however,  made  him  the  child  of  Keb  and 
Nut,  newborn  every  morning.  These  ideas  of  course  conflict  Mith  the 
other  conception  that  Re  himself  created  the  world  (see  p.  cxliv). 

In  the  course  of  its  history  the  religion  of  Egypt  underwent 
many  transformations.  The  dominant  position  in  the  Egyptian  pan- 
theon shifted  from  one  god  to  another,  either  through  theological 
speculation  and  the  growth  of  legends,  or  through  the  coming  into 
prominence  of  royal  houses  and  cities  that  were  devoted  to  the  cult 
of  particular  gods.  In  the  primitive  period  two  independent  king- 
doms were  formed  in  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt,  and  Stth,  of  Ombos, 
and  Horus,  of  Buto,  the  local  deities  of  the  two  capitals,  were  re- 
cognized as  guardians  of  the  two  states.  After  the  first  union  of  the 
two  kingdoms  had  been  operated  from  Lower  Egypt,  presumably 
with  Heliopolis  as  the  capital,  Horus  became  recognized  as  the  sole 
royal  god,  and  henceforth  remained  the  pntron  of  the  Pharaohs  and 
god  of  the  empire.  In  the  latest  period  of  the  prehistoric  epoch  Egypt 
was  again  divided  into  two  kingdoms,  the  capitals  being  El-Kab  (in 
Upper  Egypt)  and  lUito;  the  patron  deity  of  the  former  was  the  vul- 
ture-goddess Nekhbeyet,  of  the  latter  the  .serpent-goddess  i>((<o.  These 
thus  became  the  royal  goddesses  of  Upper  and  Lower  H  gypt.  In  the 
same  way  at  the  end  of  the  .Ancient  Empire  Ptah,  the  local  deity  of 
the  capital  Memphis,  became  the  patron  deity  of  the  whole  of  Egypt. 
An  important  role  in  the  religious  history  of  Egypt  has  been  played 
by  the  city  of  On-Heliopolis  |p.  120),  which  was  probably  the 
religious  centre  of  Lower  Egypt  in  the  earliest  period,  and  in  all 
likelihood  was  tor  a  time  the  capital  of  the  united  kingdom  of  Egypt. 
The  coronation  ceremonies  of  the  sovereign  seem  to  have  taken  place 
in  the  temple  of  this  city,   and  here,   too,   according  to  legend,  the 

Raedkker'8  Egypt.    7tb  Edit.  k 


cxlvi  VI.   EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 

goddess  Seshet  inscribed  the  years  of  the  coining  reign  on  the  leaves 
of  the  sacred  tree.  At  On  stood  also  the  obelisk-like  stone  column 
of  Benben,  the  chosen  seat  of  the  sun-god.  The  local  deity,  strictly 
speaking,  was,  however,  Atum;  and  the  astute  priests  of  On  put  this 
god  on  a  par  with  the  god  of  the  sun  and  asserted  that  he  was  only 
another  form,  anothername  of  Ke-Harakhte.  This  doctrine  obtained 
a  wide  currency  throughout  the  country  and  all  the  local  gods  were 
promptly  identified  with  Re  and  invested  with  the  symbol  of  Re, 
viz.  the  sun-disk  with  the  poisonous  royal  serpent  (uraeus,  p.clxxvii) 
coiled  round  it.  Thus  even  the  crocodile-god  Sobek  a.ni  Amon  of 
Thebes  became  sun-gods.  This  amalgamation  of  local  deities  with 
Re,  which  began  under  the  Middle  Empire  and  was  carried  to  great 
lengths  under  the  New  Empire,  was  a  fertile  source  of  confusion 
in  the  Egyptian  religion.  Attempts  indeed  were  made  to  draw  a 
distinction  among  the  various  forms  of  Re,  Khepre  for  example 
being  regarded  as  the  morning-sun  and  Atum  as  the  evening-sun, 
but  nothing  like  a  systematic  scheme  was  ever  achieved. 

In  the  same  way  a  number  of  female  local  deities,  especially 
when  they  were  of  a  similar  character,  were  welded  into  one.  Thus 
Hathor,  the  goddess  of  the  sky,  was  identified  with  his;  the  cat-god- 
dess Bastet  with  the  lion-goddesses  Sekhmet  and  Pekhet,  while  Sekh- 
met  was  identified  also  with  the  vulture-goddess  Mut. 

When  the  centre  of  the  empire  was  carried  farther  to  the  S.  under 
the  Middle  Empire  and  Thebes  became  the  capital  in  place  of  Mem- 
phis, a  new  phase  began  in  the  development  of  the  Egyptian  religion. 
Amon,  the  Theban  local  god,  who  had  been  identified  with  the  sun- 
god  under  the  name  of  Amcn-Re,  took  precedence  of  all  other  gods, 
and  at  the  beginning  of  the  New  Empire  became  the  head  of  the  Egyp- 
tian pantheon.  The  great  campaigns  against  Nubia  and  Asia  were 
waged  in  his  name  by  the  Theban  kings,  temples  were  erected  to 
him  in  the  conquered  lands,  and  the  lion's  share  of  the  spoil  fell  to 
his  shrines  in  Egypt,  especially  to  the  temple  at  Thebes.  Amon,  in 
short,  became  the  national  god,  the  successful  rival  of  his  predecessor 
Horns  (Re-Harakhte).  It  was  not  to  be  expected  that  the  priests  of 
Heliopolis  should  tamely  submit  to  this  weakening  of  their  influence. 
They  therefore  eagerly  seized  the  first  opportunity  of  overthrowing 
Amon  and  of  restoring  the  sun-god  to  his  former  official  dignity. 
When  AmenophisIV.  succeeded  to  the  throne  the  sun-god  of  Helio- 
polis (Re-Harakhte)  regained  the  position  of  supreme  deity,  and 
shortly  afterwards  the  sun  itself  (Egypt.  Aton)  was  announced  as 
the  one  and  only  god.  This  revolution  was  doubtless  to  some  extent 
prompted  by  the  king's  desire  to  put  a  stop  to  the  prevailing  religious 
confusion  at  a  blow,  and  to  make  practice  square  with  theory,  for 
theoretically  all  the  numerous  deities  had  long  been  explained  as 
in  reality  one  with  the  great  sun-god  (comp.  p.  211).  The  repre- 
sentations and  names  of  Amon  and  his  fellow-gods  were  every- 
where obliterated.    But  after  the  death  of  Amenophis  the  partisans 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION.  cxlvii 

of  Amon  speedily  regained  the  upper  handj  the  uew  religion  was 
aholished  and  the  earlier  creed  restored.  The  Egyptian  religion  re- 
mained in  its  former  confusion ;  the  process  of  amalgamating  different 
^ods  became  more  and  more  common;  and  religious  belief  gradually 
lost  all  living  reality.  Men  clung  anxiously  to  the  ancient  traditions, 
and  the  superstitious  belief  in  amulets  and  magic  as  the  only  pro- 
tection against  harmful  influences  gained  universal  sway.  But  no 
fresh  religious  conceptions  are  to  be  found  in  the  innumerable  texts 
inscribed  upon  the  temples,  tombs,  and  sarcophagi  of  the  later  period. 
After  the  decline  of  Thebes  Amon  began  to  lose  his  prestige,  and 
his  place  was  taken  by  the  deities  of  the  Delta,  such  as  Osiris  and  his 
group  (Isis,  Harpocrates,  and  Anubis).  Under  the  Ptolemies  Osorapis 
(Sarapis,  Serapis),  i.e.  the  deceased  Apis-bull  identified  with  Osiris 
(comp.  p.  147),  became  the  national  deity  of  Greek  Egypt,  and  the 
worship  of  this  god  (an  infernal  deity,  like  the  Pluto  of  the  Greeks) 
gradually  spread  beyond  Egypt  to  the  East  and  subsequently  also  to 
the  Roman  empire.  The  old  religion  of  Egypt  was  gradually  van- 
quished only  by  the  power  of  Christianity, 

The  Future  Life.  A  considerable  diversity  of  doctrine  as  to  the 
fate  of  man  after  death  prevailed  amongst  the  Egyptians,  and  the 
various  views  were  never  reduced  to  a  single  authoritative  creed. 
The  only  point  that  was  common  to  the  whole  people  was  the  firm 
conviction  that  the  life  of  man  did  not  end  at  death,  but  that  on  the 
contrary  men  continued  to  live  just  as  they  had  lived  upon  earth, 
provided  that  the  necessaries  of  existence  were  assured  to  them.  It 
thus  seemed  specially  necessary  that  the  body  should  be  carefully 
interred  and  protected  from  decay.  The  next  step  was  to  build  a 
house  for  the  deceased,  after  the  pattern  of  his  earthly  abode,  in 
which  he  might  dwell,  and  which,  according  to  the  popular  belief, 
he  could  quit  at  pleasure  during  the  day.  Statues,  erected  in  a 
special  room  for  the  purpose,  represented  the  owner  of  the  house,  his 
family,  and  his  domestics  (p.  clxviii).  Sacrificial  offerings  provided 
the  deceased  with  food,  and  pious  endowments  ensured  him  against 
hunger  and  thirst  even  in  the  distant  future.  Nor  was  this  all;  re- 
presentations of  food,  utensils,  etc.,  were  painted  or  carved  upon  the 
walls  of  the  tomb  or  the  sides  of  the  sarcophagus,  and  it  was  believed 
that  through  magic  these  representations  could  serve  the  deceased 
in  place  of  the  real  things.  Ornaments,  clothing,  etc.,  were  likewise 
placed  in  the  tomb  or  depicted  on  the  walls  for  the  same  purpose. 
The  occupations  that  engrossed  the  deceased  while  on  earth,  the 
pleasures  that  he  delighted  in,  the  dignities  that  he  enjoyed,  awaited 
him  beyond  the  tomb,  and  these  too  were  represented  on  the  walls 
in  order  that  he  might  really  possess  them.  To  this  belief  we  owe 
those  sepulchral  paintings  that  give  us  so  exact  a  picture  of  the  life 
of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  In  the  earliest  times  the  grandees  alone 
were  allowed  to  build  themselves  tombs,  and  that  probably  only  by 
favour  of  the  king.    Those  who  were  not  attached  to  the  court  had 


cxlviii  VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 

to  content  themselves  with  simpler  tombs,  in  which  the  necessaries 
for  the  future  life  were  buried  with  the  bodies.  But  at  a  later  period 
even  the  ordinary  citizens  built  'everlasting  houses'  for  themselves, 
at  least  so  far  as  they  possessed  the  means  to  do  so. 

The  dead  were  under  the  protection  of  the  local  deities,  whose 
duty  it  was  to  superintend  the  funeral  ceremonies  and  afford  se- 
curity in  the  tomb.  There  was  also  in  many  towns  a  special  god  of 
the  dead,  named  Khente-Amentiu,  'the  first  of  tlie  inhabitants  of  the 
Western  Kingdom'  (i.e.  of  the  de^d),  who  was  represented  in  the  form 
of  a  dog.  At  a  later  date  these  local  gods  retired  in  favour  of  Osiris. 
He  was  gradually  recognized  as  the  ruler  of  the  dead  by  all  Egypt,  and 
dominion  over  the  departed  was  assigned  to  him  almost  exclusively. 
Abydos  became  the  chief  religious  centre  of  his  cult.  The  death 
which,  according  to  the  legend  (p.  cxliii),  Osiris  suffered  was  the  com- 
mon lot  of  mortals;  but  just  as  Osiris  rose  again,  so  a  man  also  could 
begin  a  new  life,  provided  that  the  same  formulae  were  pronounced 
for  him  by  some  faithful  son;  he  went  to  Osiris,  became  united  with 
the  slain  god,  in  fact  was  himseU  Osiris.  Admission  to  the  realm  of 
Osiris  depended  upon  the  recitation  of  magical  formulae  and  incanta- 
tions, a  knowledge  of  which  must  be  communicated  to  the  deceased. 
A  virtuous  earthly  life  was  required  to  assure  the  deceased  eternal 
happiness,  and  he  had  therefore  to  undergo  a  trial  before  Osiris  and 
to  prove  before  42  judges  that  he  was  free  from  mortal  sin.  Before 
this,  and  before  his  heart  had  been  weighed  by  TJiout  in  the  scales  of 
righteousness  and  found  perfect,  he  might  not  enter  the  future  land. 

Opinions  differed  as  to  the  abode  of  the  blessed  dead.  Their 
dwelling  was  usually  located  in  the  West,  among  the  mountains, 
and  in  the  desert  where  the  sun  set.  Some  believed  that  they  in- 
habited the  heavenly  fields  of  Earn,  a  fruitful  country  where  plough- 
ing and  reaping  were  carried  on  as  upon  earth,  and  where  the  corn 
grew  seven  ells  high,  forming  a  veritable  paradise  for  the  Egyp- 
tian peasant.  As  the  labour  in  this  future  land  might  often  be 
too  great  for  the  strength  of  the  deceased,  it  became  the  custom  at 
the  period  of  the  Middle  Empire  to  place  Ushebtis  in  the  tomb  along 
with  him.  These  little  figures  of  men  were  imbued  with  life  by  a 
magic  spell  written  upon  them  and  assisted  the  deceased  when 
he  was  called  to  work  beyond  the  tomb.  Another  doctrine  sought 
to  unite  the  different  conceptions  of  the  future  life  and  placed  the 
abodes  of  the  blessed  in  Twet,  the  underworld  (see  p.  cxliv).  This 
was  divided  into  twelve  parts,  corresponding  to  the  twelve  hours 
of  night,  and,  according  to  a  certain  view,  separated  from  each  other 
by  massive  gates  ( comp.  pp.  284  et  seq.). 

In  flat  contradiction  to  these  doctrines  was  the  popular  belief 
that  man  possessed  not  only  a  body  but  also  a  soul  (ba'i),  which  lived 
after  death.  This  was  originally  conceived  of  as  a  bird;  at  a  later 
period  as  a  bird  with  a  human  head.  It  was  believed  that  the  spirit 
left  the  body  at  death  and  flew  freely  about,  but  could  return  to  the 


VI.   EGYPTIAN  RELIGION.  cxlix 

body  at  pleasure,  provided,  of  course,  that  the  latter  did  not  decay. 
Thus  from  ancient  times  everything  was  done  in  Egypt  to  prevent 
the  destruction  of  the  body,  and  so  to  enable  the  soul  to  recognize 
its  mortal  tenement.  A  prominent  place  in  the  belief  of  the  ancient 
Egyptians  was  taken  by  the  Ka,  a  kind  of  guardian-spirit  or  genius, 
which  was  born  with  the  individual  and  accompanied  him  through 
life  as  a  'double'.  The  Ka  did  not  expire  with  its  proteg^  but  con- 
tinued to  live  in  order  to  protect  the  deceased  in  the  future  world. 
In  the  earliest  period  the  dead  were  buried  in  a  crouching  postnie 
with  their  knees  drawn  up  and  lying  on  their  left  side.  In  the  An- 
cient Empire  the  custom  of  leaving  the  corpse  at  full  length  began 
to  be  followed,  probably  at  first  in  the  case  of  the  kings.  At  the 
same  time  embalming  was  attempted.  The  bodies  were  treated  with 
saline  solutions  and  bitumen  and  rolled  in  linen  bandages  and  wrap- 
pings. The  process  of  preparing  the  mummy  was  more  elaborate  at 
later  times.  The  brains  were  first  removed  through  the  nostrils  by 
means  of  an  iron  hook;  the  stomach  was  then  opened  with  a  flint  knife 
and  the  viscera  removed  (Herodotus  ii.  86)  and  placed  in  four  jars, 
known  as  Canopi.  These  were  usually  closed  with  lids,  bearing  the 
heads  of  the  four  sons  of  Osiris,  to  whose  protection  the  intestines 
were  committed.  The  heart  also  was  removed  from  the  body,  and 
was  replaced  by  a  stone  scarabaeus,  laid  upon  the  breast  of  the  de- 
ceased, beneath  the  wrappings.  Herodotus  states  that  at  a  later 
period  there  were  three  methods  of  embalming,  differing  according 
to  the  expense  involved.  So  much  care  was  given  to  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  corpses  that  to  this  day  the  features  of  many  of  the  mum- 
mies may  be  clearly  made  out. 

List  of  the  Chief  Egyptian  Deities  and  Sacred  Animals. 

Amon,  Ammon,  or  Amun  [Fig.  1),  specially  worshipped  at  Thebes, 
was  made  a  sun-god  under  the  name  Amon-Re  and  became  the 
national  god  under  the  New  Empire.  For  his  persecution  by 
Amenophis  IV.,  see  p.  cxlvi.  His  sacred  animal  was  the  ram. 

Ant^us  or  Antaios,  the  Greek  name  for  a  falcon-headed  god,  akin 
to  Horus  and  worshipped  at  Antseopolis  (p.  236). 

Andbis  (Fig.  2),  the  special  god  of  the  12th,  17th,  and  18th  nomes 
of  Upper  Egypt,  also  a  god  of  the  dead,  whose  function  was  con- 
nected with  the  interment.  A  later  myth  makes  him  a  brother  of 
Osiris.    The  dog  was  sacred  to  him. 

Anuket  (Greek  Anvkia),  goddess  of  the  district  of  the  cataracts. 

Apis,  the  sacred  bull  of  Memphis.  For  his  distinctive  markings, 
see  p.  cxli.    The  apis  was  buried  in  the  Serapeum  (p.  147). 

Atum  (Fig.  3),  the  local  deity  of  On-Heliopolis,  Pithom,  etc.,  was 
afterwards  regarded  as  a  sun-god  (specifically  the  evening-sun). 
His  sacred  animals  were  the  lion  and  the  serpent. 

B.^STET,  the  goddess  of  Bubastis  (p.  171),  a  goddess  of  joy.  Sacred 
animal,  the  cat. 


cl  VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 

Bbs,  a  popular  deity,  represented  as  a  dwarf,  introduced  I'rom  the 
land  of  Punt.  He  was  the  god  of  matrimony  and  also  had  in- 
fluence over  births. 

BoTo,  see  Wto. 

Eme-wet,  a  god  of  the  dead,  represented,  like  Anubis,  with  a  dog's 

head.    His  symbol  was  a  post  with  a  wine-skin  hanging  on  it^t. 

Emset,  one  of  the  four  sons  of  Osiris  and  guardian-deities  of  the 
dead,  who  protected  them  from  hunger  and  thirst,  and  to  whom 
therefore  the  viscera  of  the  deceased  were  dedicated.  The  other 
three  guardians  were  Hapi,  Twe-metf,  and  Kebh-mewf. 

Enhuret  (Greek  Onuris),  the  god  of  This  and  Sebennytos. 

Epet,  a  popular  goddess  of  childbirth.  In  Thebes,  where  she  was 
revered  as  the  mother  of  Osiris,  she  was  represented  as  a  pregnant 
hippopotamus.    See  also  Toeris. 

Eri-hems-nufee  ('the  good  companion';  Greek  Harensnuphis), 
another  name  for  Show,  under  which  he  was  worshipped  on  the 
island  of  Biggeh  and  at  Phils. 

E\vs-os,  goddess  of  Heliopolis,  the  consort  of  Harakhte. 

Hapi,  one  of  the  guardian-deities  of  the  dead.    See  Emset. 

Hakakhte  (Fig.  4),  a  special  form  of  Horus  (p.  oxliii).  He  was  the 
god  of  Heliopolis.    The  falcon  was  sacred  to  him. 

Haebndotbs  (Fig.  5 ;  'Egypt.  Ear -net- yotf),  'Horus  who  protects 
his  father'  (Osiris),  a  form  of  Horus. 

Har-khentekhtai,  god  of  Athribis  (near  Benha).  Sacred  animal, 
the  serpent. 

Harmachis,  a  name  given  to  the  Sphinx  at  Gizeh. 

Haepocrates,  Horus  the  child,  represented  with  a  side-lock  and  a 
finger  on  his  lips.  The  Greeks  regarded  him  as  god  of  silence. 
He  was  much  revered,  especially  at  a  late  date. 

Hae-sem-tewe  (Ha/rsomtus),  'Horus  the  uniter  of  the  two  lands',  a 
form  of  Horus. 

Harsiesis,  'Horus,  son  of  Isis',  a  form  of  Horus. 

Hathoe  (Fig.  6),  a  deity  of  the  sky,  and  a  goddess  of  joy  and  love, 
identified  by  the  Greeks  with  Aphrodite.  She  was  the  goddess 
of  Dendera  (p.  245)  and  Aphroditespolis  (p.  333)  and  was  wor- 
shipped also  in  Thebes  as  guardian  of  the  necropolis  (p.  302).  The 
cow  was  sacred  to  her  and  she  was  frequently  represented  with 
cow's  horns  or  a  cow's  head  (Fig.  7). 

Heeishep,  the  ram-headed  god  of  Heracleopolis  (p.  206). 

HoEus  received  universal  homage  as  the  sun-god.  He  was  the  local 
deity  of  Buto  and  the  patron  of  the  Pharaohs  (p.  cxlv)  at  Edfu, 
where  he  is  represented  as  a  winged  sun  (Fig.  20).  He  is  usually 
described  as  the  son  of  Osiris  and  Isis,  sometimes  as  the  son  of 
Re  and  brother  of  Seth.   The  falcon  was  sacred  to  him. 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  KELIGION.  cli 

Imhoi'bp  (Imulhes),  a  deified  saint  of  Memphis,  revered  as  a  priest 
and  physician,  was  identified  by  the  Greeks  with  Asklepios 
(jEsculapius).    He  had  a  temple  at  Philae  also. 

Isis  (Figs.  8  &  9),  the  wife  of  Osiris  and  mother  of  Horus  (Har- 
siesis),  was  a  goddess  of  Philae  and  was  highly  revered  at  a  late 
period. 

Ka,  the  guardian-spirit  of  men  (p.  cxlix). 

Keb  or  Geb,  the  earth-god,  husband  of  Nut  (see  p.  cxlii). 

IvEBH-sNEWF,  ouc  of  the  guardiau-deitics  of  the  dead.    See  Emset. 

Khepre,  the  scarabaeus  (dung-beetle),  regarded  as  a  form  of  the 
snn-god  (p.  clxxvii). 

Khnum  (Fig.  10)  was  the  god  of  Elephantine  and  the  Cataract  dis- 
tricts, and  of  Shes-hotep,  Esneh,  etc.  His  sacred  animal  was  the 
ram. 

Khons,  the  moon-god  of  Thebes,  was  the  son  of  Amon  and  Mut, 
with  whom  he  forms  the  Theban  Triad.  Sacred  animal,  the  falcon. 

Maat  (Fig.  11),  goddess  of  justice  or  truth.  Her  symbol  is  an 
ostrich-feather. 

MiN  (Fig.  12),  the  guardian  spirit  of  Akhmim  and  Koptos,  was  also 
the  god  of  travellers  in  the  desert.  Later  he  was  revered  as  a 
god  of  the  harvest  and  was  frequently  amalgamated  with  Amon; 
the  Greeks  identified  him  with  Pan.  He  is  ithyphallically  re-r 
presented.   His  sacred  animal  was  a  white  bull. 

Mnbvis,  the  sacred  bull  of  Heliopolis  (p.  exit). 

Mont  (Montu),  the  god  of  Hermonthis  and  Thebes,  was  regarded 
from  an  early  period  as  the  god  of  war.  He  was  represented 
with  a  falcon's  head. 

Mux,  the  wife  or  daughter  of  Amon  of  Thebes  and  mother  of  Khons. 
Her  sacred  animal  was  the  vulture. 

Nbfertem,  son  of  Ptah  of  Memphis. 

Neith,  goddess  of  Sais,  Esneh  (pp.  33,  342),  etc. 

NEKHBEYBT(Greek  Smilhis),  goddess  of  El-Kab  (p.  333)  and  guardian- 
deity  of  Upper  Egypt.  As  she  presided  over  childbirth  the  Greeks 
identified  her  with  Eileithyia.    Sacred  animal,  the  vulture. 

Nephthts  (Fig.  13),  originally  a  goddess  of  the  dead.  Sister  of  Osiris. 

Nut,  a  goddess  of  the  sky  and  wife  of  Keb. 

Onnophris,  see  Wen-nopre. 

Osiris  (Fig.  14),  originally  the  god  of  Busiris,  afterwards  identified 
with  the  death-god  of  Abydos,  the  'Lord  of  the  AVestern  Folk', 
and  universally  worshipped  as  god  of  the  dead  (p.  cxlviii).  His 
tomb  was  at  Abydos  (p.  237).  For  his  legend,  see  p.  cxliii.  His 

symbol  was  a  post  ff  (Tet). 

Pekhet,  the  goddess  of  Speos  Artemidos  (p.  227),  to  whom  the  cat 

was  sacred. 
Ptah  (Fig.  15),  the  god  of  Memphis  and  patron  deity  of  Egypt 

(p.  cxlv),  was  regarded  as  the  guardian  of  artists. 


olii  VI.  EGYPTIAN  UELIGION. 

Ptah-Tenen,  a  special  form  of  Ptah. 

Eb,  the  sun-god.  He  was  identified  at  an  early  period  ■with  Har- 
akhte  of  Heliopolis,  and  named  Re-Harakhte.  During  the  night 
he  traverses  the  underworld  and  is  then  named  Yfu-Rl  and 
represented  with  a  ram's  head, 

Satet  (Greek  Satis) ,  guardian-deity  of  the  Cataract  district,  was 
worshipped  on  the  island  of  Seheil  and  at  Elephantine. 

Sbkhmet  (Fig.  16),  goddess  of  war.    Sacred  animal,  the  lioness. 

Sele:et,  a  goddess  to  whom  the  scorpion  was  sacred. 

Serapis  (Sarapis),  a  foreign  god  introduced  into  Egypt  under  the 
Ptolemies  (p.  147),  and  more  or  less  identified  with  the  ancient 
Egyptian  Osiris-Apis  (Osorapis),  the  deceased  Apis  bull. 

Seshkt  (Fig.  17),  goddess  of  writing. 

Seth  (Setekh)^  god  of  Omhos  (near  Nakadeh),  was  the  patron  deity 
of  Upper  Egypt  in  prehistoric  times  (p.  cxliii),  and  was  worship- 
ped also  at  Tanis  and  Auaris.  He  was  the  brother  of  Osiris, 
whom  he  is  said  to  have  slain  (p.  cxliii).  Another  myth  makes 
him  brother  and  enemy  of  Horus.  After  the  22nd  Dyn.  he  was 
expelled  from  the  Egyptian  pantheon  and  was  thenceforth  re- 
garded as  god  of  the  impure  (Typhon).  His  sacred  animal,  with 
a  peculiar  muzzle  and  grotesque  ears  and  tail,  is  perhaps  to  be 
identified  with  the  Ethiopian  ant-eater  (Orycteropus). 

Show,  god  of  the  air  and  god  of  Leontonpolis  (Tell  el-Yehudiyeh). 
The  Egyptians  believed  that  he  supported  the  sky.  The  lion 
was  sacred  to  him. 

Sobek  (Fig.  18;  Greek  Suchos),  worshipped  chiefly  in  the  Faiyum, 
at  Ombos,  etc.    The  crocodile  was  sacred  to  him. 

SoKBR,  a  falcon-headed  god  of  the  dead  worshipped  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Memphis. 

Tefnut,  the  goddess  of  the  dew,  sister  and  consort  of  Show,  along 
with  whom  she  was  worshipped  (in  the  form  of  a  lioness). 

Tetun,  guardian-deity  of  Nubia. 

Thotjt  or  Thoth  (Fig.  19),  a  moon-deity  and  god  of  the  sciences, 
therefore  identified  by  the  Greeks  with  Hermes.  He  was  the 
city-god  of  Hermopolis  (p.  209).  The  ibis  and  baboon  were 
sacred  to  him. 

ToEEis,  'the  great  (^scil.  Epet)',  another  name  of  Epet  (see  p.  cl). 

TwE-METF,  one  of  the  guardian-deities  of  the  dead.    SeeEmset. 

Wen-nofee  (Greek  Onnophris),  a  surname  of  Osiris. 

Wep-wawet,  protector  of  Assiut,  also  worshipped  as  a  god  of  the 
dead.    The  wolf  was  sacred  to  him. 

Webt-hekew,  a  lion-headed  goddess,  wife  of  Re-Harakhte. 

Wto  (Greek  Buto),  goddess  of  the  town  of  Buto  in  the  Delta ;  also 
a  guardian-deity  of  Lower  Egypt.  The  serpent,  ichneumon,  and 
shrew-mouse  were  sacred  to  her.  This  goddess  was  represented 
also  with  a  lion's  head. 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 
Bepresentations  of  the  most  important  Deities. 


oiiii 


1.  Amon-Ee. 


2.  Anubis. 


3.  Atom, 


4.  Harakbte. 


oliv 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 


5.  Harendotes. 


6.  Hathor. 


7.  Cow-headed 
Hathor. 


8.  Isis. 


9.  Isis,  suckling  the 
infant  Horus. 


10.  Khnum. 


yi.?EGYPTlAN   RELIGION. 


ClT 


11.  Maat,  goildess  of 
truth. 


12.   Min;  behind  is  the 

curious  shrine  of 

the  god. 


13.  Xephthys. 


14.  Osiris;   behind  the  god  is  the   syinbul 
of  Eme-wet,  god  of  the  dend. 


cWi 


VI.  EGYPTIAN  RELIGION. 


15.   Ptab. 


16.  Sekhmet.  17.  Seshet  writing  the 

king's  name  on  the  sacred  tree 
of  Heliopolis. 


18.  Sobek. 


19.  Thont. 


cMi 


VII.  Historical  Notice  of  Egyptian  Art 

By  Profetsor  O.  Steindorff. 

1.  Architecture. 

Of  Egyptian  architectural  monuments  dating  from  the  pre- 
historic period  or  from  the  earliest  dynasties  unfortunately  little 
has  been  preserved  —  very  little  compared  with  what  remains  of  the 
buildings  of  the  period  extending  from  the  Ancient  Empire  to  the 
Grseco-Koman  epoch.  The  remains  that  do  exist  are  chiefly  tombs, 
of  clay  or  of  sun-dried  bricks  of  Nile  mud,  materials  which  were 
used  also  for  houses  and  temples  of  the  period.  For  the  roof-sup- 
ports, and  frequently  for  the  roofs  also,  round  trunks  of  palms  were 
used.  In  many  other  cases  the  chambers  were  covered  with  barrel- 
vaulting.  —  Stone  began  to  be  used  for  tombs  and  temples  at  tlic 
beginning  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  but  brick  never  ceased  to  be 
the  characteristic  building-material  of  Egypt.  The  characteristic 
Egyptian  architectural  members,  such  as  the  concave  cornice 
(cavetto)  and  the  round  moulding  (torus  or  roll),  had  their  origin 
in  the  primitive  structures  of  wattle-and-daub,  and  the  form  of  the 
circular  Column  was  borrowed  from  the  wooden  supports  used  in 
brick  buildings.  The  square  Pier  or  Pillar,  on  the  other  hand,  came 
into  existence  with  architecture  in  stone. 

Piers  are  first  met  with  in  tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  Their 
lateral  surfaces  are  frequently  occupied  by  reliefs  or  inscriptions 
and  their  fronts  by  other  ornamental  designs.  Thus  tall  papyrus- 
plants  and  lilies  occur  on  piers  of  the  time  of  Thutmosis  III.  at 
Kamakfp.  274),  and  a  sistrum  (a  rattle  used  by  women)  with  a  head 
of  Hathor  at  Abu  Simbel  (p.  409).  The  four-sided  pier  was  con- 
verted into  an  octagonal  or  sixteen-sided  pillar  by  bevelling  off  the 
corners,  part  of  the  pier,  however,  being  left  square  at  the  top  so 
as  to  blend  with  the  roof;  at  the  foot  was  a  round,  cushion-like 
base.  By  grooving  or  fluting  the  flat  surfaces  of  the  pillar  a  play  of 
light  and  shade  was  obtained.  Sixteen-sided  fluted  pillars,  which 
have  received  the  name  of  Proto-Doric  Columns  (Fig.  I),  occur  in 
tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire  (at  Benihasan  and  As^uan)  and  in 
temples  of  the  time  of  Thutmosis  III.  (Karnak,  p.  277  ;  Deir  el- 
Bahri,  p.  302).  The  name  was  suggested  by  certain  points  of  resem- 
blance to  the  Doric  columns  of  the  Greeks,  the  chief  of  which  are 
the  marked  fluting  and  the  tapering ;  but  the  Proto-Doric  differs 
from  the  Greek  Doric  in  being  destitute  of  the  'echinus',  a  member 
resembling  an  overhanging  wreath  of  leaves,  forming  the  capital 
of  the  true  Doric  coluum.  The  chief  difference,  however,  is  that 
the  shaft  of  the  Egyptian  column  rests  upon  a  base,  while  the 
Doric  column  springs  immediately  from  the  ground.  Another 
difference  is  that  some  of  the  sides  of  the  Proto-Doric  column  are 
frequently  unfluted  and  left  flat  for  the  reception  of  inscriptions. 


clviii 


Vn.  HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 


Along  with  tlie  pier  and  the  allied  Pioto-Doric  column  the  round 
Column  began  to  he  used  in  Egyptian  stone  architecture  after  the 
heginning  of  the  5th  Dynasty.  Its  simplest  form  was  the  Tree- 
Trunk  Column  of  two  members,  -which  was  an  imitation  of  the  an- 
cient palm-tree  supports  (p.  clvii)  and  is  first  found  in  the  mortuary 
temple  of  Sehuie  at  Abusir.  This  consists  of  a  low  circular  b  ase 
and  a  cylindrical  shaft,  which  was  adorned  in  front  with  a  band  of 


I.    Tomb  Chamber  and  Columns  of  Benihasan. 


inscriptions.  Usually,  however,  the  column  had  three  parts,  i.e.  it 
was  crowned  by  a  capital,  ending  in  a  square  slab  known  as  the 
abacus,  upon  which  rest  the  beams  of  the  arcliitrave,  supporting 
the  slabs  of  the  roof.  The  Egyptian  love  of  plants  is  well  known 
from  various  sources,  and  consistently  with  this  the  favourite  forms 
for  columns  as  early  as  the  Ancient  Empire  were  borrowed  from 
plant-life.  Two  plants  especially  were  most  frequently  copied,  viz. 
a  variety   of    lotus   (Nymphsea  lotus)    and   the  papyrus  (Cypeius 


VIl.  HISTORY  OF   EOyPTIAN  ART. 


papyrus).  Sometimes  the  column  represents  a  single  plant-stem, 
sometimes  a  cluster  of  stems  held  together  by  bands;  while  the 
capital  imitates  in  turn  the  closed  bud  or  the  open  calyx  (Fig.  II). 
Thus  there  arise  four  varieties  of  plant-columns:  the  simple  plant- 
column  with  bud-capitals  and  the  same  with  calyx-capitals;  and 
the  clustered  plant-column  with  bud  or  calyx  capitals. 

Of  the  various  Lotus  Columns  [which  seem  to  have  been  freely 
used  if  we  may  judge  from  the  numerous  pictures  of  them)  com- 
paratively few  have  been 

preserved.  Clustered  col- 
umns of  this  kind  with  " 
bud-capitals  occur  during 
the  Ancient  and  Middle 
Empires  (in  a  tomb  at 
Benihasan),  but  appear  to 
have  died  out  under  the 
New  Empire.  The  above- 
mentioned  shaft  at  Beni- 
hasan is  formed  of  four 
round  stems,  rising  from 
a  round  base,  and  fastened 
together  at  the  top  by 
bands  (Fig.  III).  The  capi- 
tal is  formed  of  closed 
buds,  the  green  sepals  of 
which  extend  quite  to  the 
top  of  the  white  petals  of 
the  corolla.  Near  the  top 
of  the  shaft,  between  the 
bands  which  hold  the 
main  stems  together,  are 
inserted  smaller  stems. 
Examples     of    clustered 

lotus-columns  with  open  (calyx)  capitals  (Fig.  II)  are  frequently 
seen  in  reliefs  on  tombs  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires;  but 
they  occur  most  often  in  buildings  of  the  later  period. 

The  Papynts  Columns  are  nim-h  more  numerous.  They  differ 
widely  from  the  lotus  columns.  The  stems  in  the  latter  are  circular 
in  section,  while  in  the  papyrus-columns  they  are  triangular,  and 
moreover  taper  rapidly  at  the  base,  where  thoy  are  encircled  with 
pointed  leaves  —  characteristics  that  are  wanting  in  the  lotus- 
columns.  There  is  a  difference  also  in  the  capitals,  the  sepals  of 
the  lotus  reaching  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  flower  (see  above),  while 
the  leaves  surrounding  the  umbel  of  the  papyrus  are  considerably 
shorter.  The  simple  papyrus-column  with  a  bud-capital  is  seen  only 
in  paintings  and  reliefs,  whereas  the  clustered  column  is  common 
enough  (I'Mg.  IV  a).    The  latter  usually  consists  of  eight  stems  held 


cli 


Vll.    HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 


together  by  bands  at  the  top,  while  between  these  stems  smaller 
clusters  of  three,  fastened  together  by  bands,  were  inserted.   These 

inserted  stems,  however,  lost  their 
independent  treatment  at  an  early 
period.  —  Towards  the  close  of  the 
18th  Dyn.  the  clustered  papyrus- 
column  underwent  an  essential 
change.  In  order  to  adapt  the  shaft 
for  the  reception  of  inscriptions  and 
pictures,  all  its  irregularities  were 
abandoned  and  it  was  made  per- 
fectly smooth.  For  the  same  reason 
the  capital  also  was  rounded  off  and 
transformed  into  a  blunt  cone,  the 
original  clustering  being  recalled 
by  painting  alone  (Fig.  IV b).  • — 
Papyrus-columns  with  calyx-capi- 
tals (Fig.  V  a ;  representing  the 
opened  umbel  of  the  flower),  in 
which  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish 
between  simple  and  clustered  col- 
umns, occur  in  most  temples  of  the 
New  Empire,  where  they  generally 
appear  supporting  the  lofty  roof  of 
the  central  passage  in  such  hypo- 
style  halls  as  consist  of  nave  and 
aisles.  They  invariably  consist  of 
a  single  rounded  shaft,  no  longer  articulated  into  separate  stems 
(and  generally  covered  with  inscriptions  and  reliefs). 


IfP^^iHll 


Calyx  Capital  of  a 
Papyrus  Column. 


Composite  Plant 
Capital. 

V. 


Amongst  the  other  aud  rarer  varieties  the  Palm  Column  deserves 
mention .  Its  shaft  is  round  (without  the  tapering  foot  of  the  papyrus 


VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxi 

column)  and  supports  a  capital  formed  of  a  bundle  of  palm-leaves, 
bending  sliglitly  outwards,  and  held  together  by  bands  (Fig.  Vc). 
The  earliest  and  finest  palm-columns  were  found  in  the  mortuary 
temple  of  Sehure  at  Abustr.  At  a  later  period  the  base  of  the 
column  was  often  omitted.  —  The  comparatively  simple  plant- 
capitals  of  the  earlier  periods  were  elaborately  developed  during  the 
Ptolemaic  epoch,  until  they  almost  assumed  the  form  of  bouquets 
of  flowers,  resplendent  with  brilliant  colours  (Fig.  Vb~). 

Besides  these  plant-columns  other  varieties  occur.  The  so-called 
Hathor  or  Sistrum  Columns  have  round  shafts  crowned  on  four  sides 
with  the  head  of  the  goddess  Hathor  (with  cow's  ears),  above  which 
was  a  temple-like  addition.  These  are  exclusively  confined  to  tem- 
ples of  female  deities  and  are  most  numerous  in  the  Ptolemaic 
period;  they  arc  doubtless  reproductions  of  the  sistrum  (p.  clvii), 
with  its  handle.   Another  curious  column  is  the  Tent-Pole  Column, 

an  imitation  of  the  primitive  j]  form  of  tent-poles.    This  occurs  in 

the  festal  temple  of  Thutmosis  111.  at  Karnak  (p.  275),  where  the 
capitals  are  altered  to  the  form  of  inverted  calices. 

Comparatively  few  of  the  ancient  Egyptian  Secular  Buildings, 
even  of  the  later  historical  periods,  have  been  preserved.  The 
number  of  ruined  towns  is  not,  indeed,  insignificant ;  but  the  re- 
mains of  the  earlier  houses  are  almost  invariably  concealed  by  those 
of  later  date  and  are  thus  very  difficult  to  examine.  The  remains 
of  earlier  houses  have  come  down  to  us  directly  in  only  a  few  ex- 
ceptional instances,  as  at  Illahua  (pp.  194,  196),  Tell  el-'Amarna 
(see  p.  212j,  and  Deir  el-Ballas,  and  beside  the  valley  temple  of  the 
Mykerinos  Pyramid  (p.  133).  These,  in  connection  with  represent- 
ations preserved  on  the  monuments  and  models  of  houses  found  in 
tombs,  afford  us  some  knowledge  of  the  structure  and  interior  ar- 
rangements of  Egyptian  Pkivate  Houses,  which  in  many  respects 
resembled  the  Arab  liouses  of  modern  Egypt  (p.  clxxxiii).  The 
house  of  the  humble  peasant  or  workman  was  as  simple  then  as  it 
is  to-day.  An  open  court,  in  which  the  family  spent  the  day  (and 
in  summer  the  night  also),  was  adjoined  by  a  few  dimly  -  lighted 
sleeping-rooms  and  stables  for  the  cattle,  while  a  staircase  led  from 
the  court  to  the  flat  roof,  upon  which  a  few  smaller  apartments  were 
often  found.  The  houses  of  the  more  prosperous  Egyptians  of  the 
Middle  Empire  also  had  a  court  as  their  central  point,  at  the  back 
of  which,  on  a  terrace,  was  a  colonnade  or  vestibule  of  light  col- 
umns, generally  open  towards  the  N.  and  affording  protection  from 
the  sun.  Thence  a  door  led  to  a  wide  hall,  the  roof  of  which  rested 
on  columns,  and  beyond  that  was  a  deep  hall,  also  with  columns, 
probably  used  as  the  eating  room.  Beyond  that  again  were  other 
apartments  (bedrooms)  for  the  master  of  the  house  and  his  grown- 
up sons.  On  one  side  of  the  four  principal  divisions  of  the  house 
(court,    vestibule,  broad  hall,  deep  hall)  were  the  women's  apart- 


clxii  VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

raents,  or  liarem  (hariin),  the  middle  point  of  which  was  another 
open  court;  and  on  the  other  side  were  the  slaves'  apartments,  the 
store-rooms,  the  kitchens,  and  the  stables.  This  arrangement  of 
the  Egyptian  dwelling-house  was  probahly  the  same  in  essential 
details  at  all  periods,  and  even  in  the  Royal  Palaces  (e.g.  at  Tell 
el-'Amarna)  the  four  principal  divisions  occur  in  the  same  order. 
The  houses  of  the  18th  Dyn.  which  have  recently  been  excavated 
at  Tell  el- Amarna  are  built  upon  a  slightly  different  plan  from 
that  just  described.  —  The  walls  of  the  houses  and  palaces  were 
built  of  unburnt  bricks  of  Nile  mud ;  the  roofs  were  made  of  wooden 
beams,  covered  with  straw  or  reeds  and  daubed  within  and  without 
with  Nile  mud  ;  the  columns  were  either  of  stone  or  of  wood,  and  in 
palaces  were  inlaid  with  coloured  stones  or  glass-paste.  Colour  was 
extensively  used  also  in  the  interiors;  the  walls  were  whitewashed 
and  adorned  with  bright-coloured  rugs  or  with  paintings,  and  even 
the  pavements  were  often  covered  with  colouring  matter. 

Numerous  Foktifibd  Structokes  have  been  preserved.  Amongst 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  Nubian  forts  at  Kuban  (p.  397)  and 
to  the  S.  of  Wadi  Haifa  (p.  413),  where  a  chain  of  fortifications 
closed  the  roads  beside  the  cataract,  and  the  Egyptian  forts  at 
El-Kab  (p.  333)  and  near  El-Aliaiweh  (p.  2361,  all  of  which  pro- 
bably date  from  the  Middle  Empire. 

As  taxes  and  salaries  were  paid  in  kind,  large  Magazines  were 
required  for  the  reception  of  tribute,  not  only  by  the  state  but  also 
by  temples.  The  remains  of  such  storehouses  have  been  found 
beside  the  Ramesseum  (p,  309)  and  elsewhere. 

Probably  in  no  other  country  have  so  many  Temples  within  such 
narrow  limits  survived  from  antiquity  as  in  Egypt.  Most  of  these, 
it  is  true,  date  from  the  New  Empire  and  the  Ptolemaic  epoch,  so 
that  we  have  a  clear  conception  of  the  temples  of  these  periods  only. 
Few  or  no  complete  temples  have  survived  from  the  Ancient  or 
Middle  Empires  or  from  the  late-Egyptian  period. 

Of  the  Temples  of  the  Ancient  Empiee,  apart  from  the  mortu- 
ary temples  beside  the  pyramids  (pp.  131,  134),  only  one  example 
of  a  particular  kind  has  been  preserved.  This  is  the  Sanctuary  of 
the  Sun  at  Abu  Gurab,  erected  by  King  Nuserre  (p.  140).  This 
temple  consisted  of  a  large  court  bounded  by  covered  passages  and 
containing  only  a  few  buildings;  at  the  back  of  the  court  rose  a 
huge  obelisk.  The  walls  of  the  passages  and  of  some  of  the  rooms 
were  covered  with  reliefs  representing  festivities,  hunting-scenes, 
and  country  life. 

The  remains  of  the  Temples  of  the  Middle  Empire  are  even 
scantier  than  those  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  Large  sanctuaries, 
sometimes  even  superior  in  size  to  those  of  later  times,  were  built 
during  this  period  at  Luxor,  Kamak,  Koptos ,  Abydos,  Medtnet 
el-FaiyUm,  Heliopolis,  Bubastis,  and  Tanis  ,•  but  none  has  left  any 
considerable  traces.    All  probably  fell  into  decay  during  the  troub- 


VII.    HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxiii 

lous  times  of  the  Hyksos  supremacy  and  were  replaced  under  the 
1 8th  Dyn.  by  new  buildings,  in  which  the  materials  of  the  earlier 
edifices  were  utilized  as  far  as  possible.  In  plan  they  seem  to 
liave  corresponded  exactly  with  the  later  sanctuaries,  and  probably 
many  temples  of  the  later  period  were  erected  on  the  plans  of  the 
earlier  buildings.  In  decoration  also  they  exactly  resernbled  the 
later  temples.  The  inner  walls  were  adorned  with  reliefs  showing 
the  king  in  communion  with  the  gods ;  the  ceilings  of  their  halls  were 
supported  by  columns  of  various  patterns  (comp.  pp.  clviii  at  seq.); 
and  in  front  of  their  entrances  rose  tall  obelisks  (p.  121)  and  colossal 
statues  of  the  Pharaohs. 

However  different  from  each  other  the  Temples  or  the  New 
Empiee  appear  at  first  sight,  there  is  but  little  difficulty  in  refer- 
ring them  all  to  two  general  fundamental  forms.  One  of  these,  re- 
calling, probably  quite  accidentally,  the  Greek  Peripteros  or  temple 
surrounded  by  a  colonnade,  was  especially  popular  during  the 
18th  Dyn. ,  the  age  of  Thutmosis  III.  and  his  successors.  The 
rectangular  cella  (ox  sanctuary),  containing  the  sacred  boat  with 
the  image  of  the  god  and  provided  with  doors  at  each  end,  rose 
upon  a  basement  of  masonry,  crowned  with  a  concave  cornice  and 
approached  by  a  flight  of  steps.  On  all  four  sides  it  was  surrounded 
by  a  colonnade,  the  roof  of  which  rested  upon  square  pillars  or 
on  Proto-Doric  columns,  connected  by  low  screens.  Occasionally 
this  main  structure  was  adjoined  at  the  back  by  several  smaller 
apartments,  also  used  for  religious  rites.  Among  the  peripteral 
structures  of  this  kind  arc  the  small  temples  of  Thutmosis  III.  at 
l-Carnak  and  Medinet  Habu  (pp.  279,  328),  the  S.  temple  of  Buhen 
near  Wadi  Haifa  (^p.  412),  and  a  sanctuary  of  Amenophis  III.  upon 
the  island  of  Elephantine ,  which  has  now  vanished.  Curiously 
enough  this  form  of  peripteros  was  revived  in  the  Ptolemaic  period, 
though  with  various  modifications,  being  used  in  the  so-called  Birth 
Houses  (Mammisi)^  which  stood  beside  the  principal  temples  (e.g.  at 
Philae;  p.  367)  and  were  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  maternal 
deity  (Isis  or  Hathor)  and  her  child.  The  inner  sanctuaries  in  these 
birth-houses  also  were  surrounded  with  colonnades,  the  roofs  of 
which,  however,  were  borne  by  the  curious  sistrum-columns  crown- 
ed with  heads  of  Hathor  or  with  figures  of  Bes. 

The  second  fundamental  form  of  the  Egyptian  temple  is  most 
simply  and  clearly  illustrated  in  the  small  temples  built  by  Ram- 
ses III.  at  Karnak  in  honour  of  Khons  and  of  Amon,  with  his  two 
companion-deities  (pp.  262,  267 ;  see  special  plan  of  the  great  temple 
of  Amon  at  ivarnak,  p.  265).  The  approach  to  the  temple  is  formed 
by  the  Pylon,  two  large  towers  of  masonry  flanking  the  entrance-door. 
These  towers  are  shaped  like  very  steep  truncated  pyramids;  the 
slightly  inclining  walls,  framed  with  round  mouldings,  offer  the 
greatest  available  space  for  reliefs.  The  towers  were  imposing  from 
heir  sheer  size,   and  this  impression  was  heightened  (from  the 

1* 


clxiv 


VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 


Middle  Empire  onwards)  by  the  obelisks  and  colossal  statues  placed 
in  front  of  them,  and  by  the  lofty  flag-staffs  which  were  placed  in 
shallow  niches  in  the  masonry  and  fastened  by  huge  clamps  (Fig.VI). 
Beyond  the  pylon  we  enter  a  broad  open  Court,  flanked  on  the  right 
and  left  by  covered  colonnades.  In  the  centre  stood  the  great  altar 
round  which  the  people  assembled  on  festivals.  This  court  was 
adjoined  by  the  Temple  proper,  which  stood  on  a  terrace  of  moderate 
height  adorned  with  a  concave  cornice  and  reached  from  the  cout, 


VI.  The  Second  Pylon  at  Karnak  decorated  for  a  festival  (from  an  ancien 
Egyptian  representation). 


by  one  or  more  flights  of  low  steps.  At  the  top  of  the  steps  we  first 
reach  a  Pronaos  or  Vestibule,  borne  by  columns.  The  columns  in 
the  front  row  are  connected  by  stone  screens,  shutting  off  the  temple 
from  the  court.  Behind  this  lies  a  Hypostyle  Hall,  occupying  the 
whole  breadth  of  the  building.  In  most  of  the  larger  temples  (e.jr. 
the  Ramessenm  and  the  great  temple  of  Amon  at  Karnak)  this  hall 
consisted  of  a  tripartite  nave  and  two  or  more  aisles,  the  latter  con- 
siderably lower  than  the  former.  In  these  cases  the  roof  above  the 
nave  is  usually  supported  by  papyrus-columns  with  calyx-capitals, 
that  above  the  aisles  by  similar  columns  with  bud- capitals.  Tlie 
wall-space  left  by  the  difference  in  the  height  of  the  nave  and  aisles 


VII.  HISTOKY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  aUv 

is  often  uaed  (^e.g.  at  Karuak)  for  the  insertion  of  windows  with  stone 
tracery.  Beyond  the  hypostyle  hall  lies  the  innermost  Sanctuary,  a 
comparatively  narrow  and  deep  chamber.  This  contained  the  imago 
of  the  god,  usually  in  a  sacred  boat,  which  was  borne  by  the  priests 
in  processions.  Only  the  king  or  his  representative,  the  high-priest, 
might  enter  this  chamber  and  'look  upon  the  god'.  When  the 
temple,  as,  e.g.,  the  sanctuary  of  Ramses  III.  at  Karuak  (p.  267), 
was  dedicated  to  a  triad  of  gods,  the  sanctuary  of  the  chief  god 
(Amon")  was  flanked  by  the  chapels  of  the  other  two  [Mut  and 
Khonsj.  Chambers  of  various  sizes  used  for  religious  rites  or  for 
the  storage  of  temple  property  surrounded  the  sanctuary;  staircases 
led  to  the  roof  and  to  various  rooms,  which  either  served  as  dwellings 
for  the  temple  watchmen  and  servants  or  were  used  in  the  cele- 
bration of  particular  ceremonies,  etc. 

This  form  of  Egyptian  temple,  which  recurs  in  most  of  the  larger 
sacred  buildings  of  the  New  Empire  and  lingered  until  after  the 
beginning  of  the  Ptolemaic  period,  closely  corresponds  with  the 
ground-plan  of  the  early  Egyptian  house  or  palace  previously  de- 
scribed. The  open  court  of  the  house,  accessible  to  every  visitor,  is 
represented  by  the  great  temple-court ;  the  pronaos  of  the  temple 
corresponds  to  the  vestibule,  the  colonnaded  (hypostyle)  hall  to  the 
broad  hall  of  the  dwelling;  and  the  deep  hall  in  which  the  master 
of  the  house  spent  his  time  finds  its  analogue  in  the  sanctuary,  the 
dwelling-place  of  the  god.  And  just  as  these  apartments  in  the 
dwelling-house  were  adjoined  by  chambers  and  rooms  for  various 
purposes,  so  the  sanctuary  in  the  temple  was  adjoined  by  a  series  of 
small  apartments,  store-rooms,  etc.  Thus  the  temple  was  literally 
what  the  Egyptians  called  it,  the  House  of  the  Qod. 

In  many  temples  the  colonnaded  hall  is  further  separated  from 
tlie  sanctuary  by  one  or  more  Smaller  Halls  (with  or  without  col- 
umns) of  narrower  proportions  and  dimii\ishing  in  height.  Fre- 
quently also  the  sanctuary  is  followed  by  several  other  halls  and 
chambers;  and  not  unfrequently  the  temple  proper  is  preceded  by 
two  colonnaded  courts  instead  of  by  one.  The  particular  purposes  of 
all  these  various  rooms  are  in  most  cases  hard  to  determine. 

Though  many  temples,  such  as  the  temple  at  Luxor  and  the 
great  temple  of  Amon  at  Karnak,  exhibit  a  much  more  com- 
plicated form  than  that  just  described,  the  explanation  is  that  they 
were  not  built  on  one  uniform  plan  but  owe  their  construction  to 
various  builders.  In  the  descriptions  of  the  particular  temples  con- 
cerned this  matter  is  treated  with  due  attention  to  detail. 

Occasionally  the  nature  of  the  site  compelled  further  deviations 
from  the  above-described  form.  In  Lower  Nubia  the  sandstone  cliffs 
approach  so  close  to  the  bank  of  the  Nile  that  the  temple  had  to  be 
partly  or  wholly  constructed  in  the  rock,  the  necessary  rooms  being 
hewn  out.  At  Gerf-Husein  (p.  394)  the  court  is  built  as  usual, 
while  the  colonnaded  hall  and  the  sanctuary  are  hewn  out  of  the 


clxvi  Vll.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

rock.  The  larger  temple  of  Abu  Simbel  (p.  404)  is  entirely  a  rock 
building,  the  pylon  and  the  colossi  included.  At  Abydos  the  difficulty 
of  excavating  the  rock  was  avoided  by  placing  the  part  of  the  temple 
containing  the  slaughter-court  and  other  offices  at  right  angles  to 
the  main  edifice,  so  that  the  whole  now  presents  the  form  of  a  "~| 
(comp.  the  Plan,  p.  239). 

Although  many  small  temple-buildings  of  the  Libyan  Epoch 
and  the  Late  Period  are  still  in  existence,  almost  nothing  has 
come  down  to  our  day  of  the  large  temples,  with  the  exception  of 
the  temple  of  Hibis,  in  the  Oasis  of  Khargeh  (p.  381),  which  was 
erected  in  the  time  of  the  Persians.  Nearly  all  the  kings  of  that 
period  resided  in  the  Delta  (Bubastis,  Sais),  and  therefore  mark- 
edly favoured  the  North  in  erecting  their  monuments.  There  the 
sanctuaries  were  built  of  limestone,  and  in  mediaeval  and  mod- 
ern times  the  blocks  have  either  found  their  way  into  lime-kilns, 
or,  since  the  Delta  itself  yields  but  scanty  building-materials,  have 
boen  utilized  for  new  buildings,  usually  leaving  only  the  more  re- 
fractory blocks  of  granite  behind.  It  was  not  until  the  days  of  the 
Ptolemies  that  attention  was  once  more  directed  to  the  South.  These 
monarchs  raised  many  large  temples  to  the  gods  of  the  country, 
usually  on  the  site  of  earlier  ruined  buildings.  All  these  temples 
are  built  on  one  uniform  plan,  differing  but  slightly  from  the  older 
forms  (comp.  the  Plan  of  the  temple  at  Edfu,  p.  344,  with  that  of 
the  Ramesseum,  p.  306).  There  is  a  difference  in  only  one  essential 
point.  The  sanctuary  for  the  boat  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
corridors,  on  which  open  smaller  chambers.  This  innovation,  which 
is  seen  for  the  first  time  in  the  temple  of  Khons  at  Karnak  (20th 
Dyn.),  provided  the  temple  proper  with  a  chapel  closed  all  round. 
The  earlier  temples  were  often  altered  to  conform  to  this  new  plan, 
and  a  separate  boat-chamber  was  inserted  among  the  older  rooms 
(e.g.  in  the  temple  at  Luxor,  and  in  the  great  temple  at  Karnak). 
The  side-rooms  also  are  numerous  at  this  period  and  among  these 
special  mention  must  be  made  of  a  small  Sacrificial  Court  situated 
on  the  right  side  (see  Plan  of  Edfu,  p.  344)  and  an  elegant  Kiosque 
adjoining  it  (ib.).  Eooms  of  this  kind  occur,  however,  even  in  some 
of  the  older  temples. 

From  the  earliest  known  period  all  flat  surfaces  on  pylons,  in- 
terior walls,  column-shafts,  and  ceilings  were  covered  with  repre- 
sentations and  inscriptions.  The  external  walls,  the  pylons,  and 
the  walls  of  the  courts,  i.e.  those  parts  of  the  temple  that  were  ex- 
posed to  the  vulgar  eye,  commemorated  above  all  the  exploits  of 
the  king,  campaigns,  great  festivals,  or  other  important  events  of 
his  reign ;  the  representations  were  intended  to  keep  the  power  and 
nobility  of  the  Pharaoh  constantly  before  his  people.  On  the  other 
liand  the  representations  in  the  interior  of  the  temple  were  ex- 
clusively devoted  to  the  religious  proceedings  that  took  place  there. 
The  king,  who  theoretically  was  the  only  mortal  who  might  have 


VII.  HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxvii 

intercourse  with  the  gods,  appears  again  and  again,  offering  gifts 
and  homage  to  the  deities  and  receiving  from  them  earthly  bless- 
ings. In  the  late  period  and  especially  under  the  Ptolemies  the 
secular  representations  on  the  external  walls  and  the  walls  of  the 
court  gave  place  to  religious  scenes ;  the  battle-scenes  and  triumphs 
of  the  ruler  are  superseded  by  sacrificial  and  other  sacred  scenes 
depicted  at  tedious  length.  On  the  pylons,  however,  the  primitive 
typical  figure  of  the  Pharaoh  smiting  his  enemies  in  presence  of 
the  god  still  appears.  —  The  temple,  moreover,  like  his  house  and 
his  tomb,  was  in  the  eyes  of  the  Egyptian  a  type  in  small  of  the 
world.  The  roof  corresponded  to  the  sky,  and  was,  therefore,  appro- 
priately adorned  with  stars  upon  a  blue  ground,  while  above  the 
middle  passage  hovered  vultures,  protecting  the  king  as  he  passed 
along  below.  Not  unfrequently,  and  especially  in  the  temples  of 
the  Ptolemaic  period,  the  ceiling  is  adorned  -with  astronomical  re- 
l)resentations  —  the  gods  and  goddesses  of  the  months  and  days, 
the  planets,  various  constellations,  and  the  goddess  of  the  sky 
herself,  on  whose  body  rested  the  boat  of  the  sun.  Similarly  the 
pavement  represented  the  earth.  Here  (i.e.  on  the  bottom  of  the 
walls)  we  see  flowers  blooming  or  long  processions  of  the  re- 
presentatives of  the  nomes  and  other  divisions  of  the  country,  and 
of  the  river  and  canals,  bringing  their  characteristic  products  as 
offerings  to  the  deities  of  the  temple.  Egypt  was  traditionally  re- 
garded as  divided  into  two  portions  —  a  northern  and  a  southern  — 
and  similarly  the  entire  world  as  represented  in  the  temple  was  also 
regarded  as  consisting  of  a  N.  half  and  a  S.  half.  The  represent- 
atives of  the  N.  appear  on  one  side,  those  of  the  S.  on  the  other  ; 
and  even  in  the  ceremonial  religious  scenes  on  the  walls  this 
distinction  may  frequently  be  traced.  The  entire  temple-preoincts 
were  enclosed  by  a  massive  brick  wall,  the  portal  of  which  (gener- 
ally a  pylon)  was  approached  by  a  dromos  or  avenue  of  sphinxes  or 
of  animals  sacred  to  the  god  (e.g.  in  Thebes  recumbent  rams).  With- 
in this  wall  stood  also  the  dwellings  of  the  priests,  besides  store- 
houses and  stables,  so  that  the  temple  proper,  like  an  Arab  mosque 
of  to-day,  stood  in  the  midst  of  a  complexus  of  domestic  buildings. 
Owing  to  the  great  value  of  cultivable  land  in  Egypt  Tombs 
were  not  placed  in  the  lower  portions  of  the  Nile  valley,  but  in  the 
more  elevated  desert-regions,  which,  moreover,  being  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  inundation,  were  in  any  case  better  adapted  for  the 
preservation  of  the  dead.  The  Egyptian  tomb  always  had  a  double 
function  to  fulfil ;  it  not  only  served  as  a  safe  resting-place  for  the 
dead,  but  it  was  also  a  place  where  the  survivors  could  meet  on 
certain  days  and  offer  gifts  to  the  deceased.  Thus  the  tomb  was  in 
two  parts,  the  actual  Tomb  in  the  ground,  and  the  Place  of  Worship 
above  ground.  —  The  most  ancient  graves  were  simple  pits,  in 
which  the  corpses  were  laid;  these  were  frequently  walled  with 
bricks  and  covered  over  with  beams.     Larger  pits  were  divided 


clxviii  VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

into  chambers  l)y  partition  walls.    Over  the  grave  heaps  of  stoaes 
were  piled  or  a  mound  was  formed  of  bricks  made  of  Nile  mud,  on 
the  E.  side  of  which   a  stele  was  set  up;  in  front  of  this  a  small 
court  was  made ,  which  served  as  a  place  of  worship ,  where  the 
gifts  for  the  deceased  were  deposited.     From  this  early  form  of 
Egyptian  tomb  were  developed  the  Mastabas,  as  the  tombs  of  the 
aristocrats  of  the  Ancient  Empire  are  called ;  these  were  erections 
of  limestone  blocks  or  of  bricks,  with  a  rectangular  ground-plan  and 
sloping  walls.    A  perpendicular  shaft  (10-100  ft.  in  depth)  or  a 
staircase    led   down   to   the    sepulchral    chamber,    containing    the 
corpse,  which  frequently  lay  in  a  coffin  of  wood  or  stone.    A  door- 
shaped  stone  or  stele,  resembling  a  false  door,  set  in  a  shallow 
recess  in  the  court  on  the  E.   side  of  the  upper  structure   (the 
court  or  place  of  worship,  seldom   discernible  now),  marked  the 
spot  that  was  regarded  as  the  entrance  to  the  grave  and  to  the 
realm  of  the  dead.    In  front  of  this  the  surviving  relatives  laid  the 
food,  drink,  and  other  offerings  to  the  dead  upon  the  flat  Table  of 
Offerings,  or  recited  their  prayers  for  the  welfare  of  the  departed. 
After  the  close  of  the  3rd  Dyn.  a  chapel  was  frequently  built  in 
front  of  the  recess  or  a  regular  chamber  of  worship  formed  in  the 
masonry  of  the  mastaba,   and  the  stele  was  then  removed  to  its  W. 
side.    In  the  time  of  the  5th  Dyn.  the  inner  chamber  was  enlarged 
and  a  number  of  additional  rooms  added.   The  extent  to  which  these 
'everlasting  abodes'  might  be  enlarged  and  developed  is  best  illus- 
trated by  the  mastaba  of  Mereruka  at  Sakkara  (p.  159),  which,  like 
any  ordinary  well-to-do  house,   contains  a  suite  of  rooms  for  the 
master,  another  (the  harem)  for  his  wife,  a  third,  behind,  for  the 
son,  besides  various  store-rooms.  The  inner  walls  were  embellished 
with  inscriptions  and  representations  (usually  in  relief),  depicting 
the  deceased  at  his  favourite  occupations,  hunting  and  fishing,  the 
various  activities  on  his  estates,  his  workmen  at  work,  etc.    The 
object  of  these  representations  was  to  enable  the  deceased  to  con- 
tinue his  occupations  in  the  land  beyond  the  grave  (comp.  pp.  149 
et  seq.  and  p.  cxlvii).    The  deceased  and  the  members  of  his  family 
were  represented  by  statues,  which  were  placed  in  one  or  more 
special  rooms  (the  so-called  Serddbs,  I.e.  cellars),  generally  built 
in  the  thickness  of  the  walls  but  sometimes  separate  structures. 
These  received  light  and  air  by  means  of  small  apertures  only. 
Most  of  the  fine  statues  of  the  Ancient  Empire  now  in  the  Museum 
at  Cairo  (pp.  82  et  seq.)  were  found  in  such  serdabs. 

Just  as  the  streets  of  a  town  -were  arranged  round  the  palace  of 
the  king,  so  the  rows  of  mastabas  were  grouped  around  the  tomb 
of  the  king.  Originally  the  royal  tombs  were  large  brick  mastabas 
like  the  others  (comp.  above),  in  or  beneath  which  were  chambers 
for  the  body  of  the  king,  for  those  of  his  suite,  and  for  the  various 
funeral  gifts.  Subsequently  the  royal  mastabas  were  enlarged  by 
heightening  them  and  surrounding  them  with  several  outer  casings. 


> 

'<    \ 

J>  a 

^^ 

<v   ^ 

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' ' 

L_,-^ 

'■ 

^  •>'' 

Jl'-"^ 

1                jti               m 

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o                        >oo 

„„= 

Mft 

VII.    HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN    AftT.  clxU 

each  ol  which  was  lower  than  the  one  inside  it.  A  Step  Mastaba 
(step-pyramid)  was  thus  developed,  such  as  may  still  he  seen  in 
the  step-pyramid  at  Sakkara  and  the  pyramid  at  Meidiim  (comp. 
pp.  146,  205).  The  normal  form 
of  smooth  pyramid  was  evolved 
from  the  step-pyramid  at  the 
beginning  of  the  4th  Dyn.,  and 
thenceforward  it  remained  the 
usual  form  for  royal  tomhs  until 
the  I8th  Dynasty.  In  the  rock 
heneath  the  massive  stone  erec- 
tion of  the  pyramid  a  sloping  " 
shaft  (PI.  a)  led  to  a  subterran- 
ean passage,  closed  by  means 
of  a  stone  trap-door,  and  to  the 
chamber  (PI.  6)  in  which  the 

sarcophagus  stood.    The  great     ,.„  „,       ^.        , ,.     o»      n        •  ■ 
•  J        X  z-,^     1^       ,v      \  VIT.  Elevahon  of  the  Step  Pviamul 

pyramids  at  Gizeh,    the  step-  of  SakkSra. 

pyramid  at  Sakkara,  and  various 

others  contain  several  passages  and  se  veral  chambers,  but  the  exist- 
ence of  these  is  due  to  modifications  of  the  original  plan  or  to 
later  alterations  (pp.  125,  126).  The  inner  rooms  of  the  pyramids, 
and  particularly  the  sarcophagus-chambers,  which  were  made  in- 
accessible after  the  interment,  were  almost  entirely  destitute  ol' 
ornament  in  the  ancient  period.  It  was  not  until  the  end  of  the 
5th  Dyn.  that  it  began  to  be  customary  to  adorn  the  walls  with  re- 
ligious texts  (the  so-called  'Pyramid  Texts').  The  recess  or  the 
room  in  which  sacrifices  were  offered  to  the  dead  in  the  mastabas 
was  represented  in  the  case  of  the  pyramids  by  a  detached  temple 
on  the  E.  side.  These  temples  were  divided  into  two  portions,  one 
public,  the  other  private.  The  centre  of  the  public  portion  was  oc- 
cupied by  a  large  open  court,  surrounded  with  arcades,  off  which 
opened  five  chambers  for  the  statues  of  the  deceased  monarch;  the 
principal  apartment  in  the  private  temple  was  the  sanctuary  con- 
taining the  stele.  On  the  edge  of  the  cultivated  land,  moreover, 
stood  a  temple,  forming  a  monumental  gateway,  rising  on  a  terrace 
and  connected  by  a  long  covered  approach  with  the  mortuary  temple, 
which  lay  on  the  desert-plateau.  The  walls  of  the  pyramid-temples 
of  the  4th  Dyn.  were  left  bare,  but  those  of  the  temple  at  Abusir 
are  partly  covered  with  reliefs,  which  to  some  extent  display  the 
same  types  as  are  seen  in  the  temples  of  the  gods  (the  king  as  a 
griffin  triumphing  over  foreign  foos,  booty  captured  from  the  enemy, 
military  campaigns,  etc.).  The  best  preserved  mortuary  temples  of 
the  Ancient  Empire  are  the  temple  beside  the  pyramid  of  MeidUm 
(p.  205;  apparently  unfinished),  the  temp'es  of  Khephren  and  My- 
kerinos  beside  the  pyramids  of  Glzeh  (pp.  132,  133),  and  those  of 
Sehure,  Nefer-er-ke-re,  and  Nuserre  at  Abii^7r  (p.  141).  Less  is  known 


clxi  VII.    HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

of  the  plan  of  the  mortuary  temples  of  the  Middle  Empire  beside 
the  pyramids  of  Lisht,  Dahshur,  Illahun,  and  Hawara.  Most  of  these 
are  in  a  very  ruinous  condition,  like  the  temple  of  Amenemhet  III., 
the  so-called  Labyrinth  (p.  195),  while  others  have  not  been  fully 
excavated.  The  only  one  in  tolerable  preservation  is  the  mortuary 
temple  of  Mentuhotep  III.  and  Mentuhotep  IV.  at  Deir  el- Bahri 
(p.  304),  but  that  is  built  on  a  peculiar  plan  with  terraces  and  can- 
not be  considered  typical.  For  the  way  in  which  the  pyramids  were 
built,  comp.  p.  124.  At  a  later  period  the  kings  of  Napata  and  Meroe 
(pp.  419,  422)  re- adopted  the  pyramidal  form  for  the  royal  tombs. 

The  custom  of  placing  their  tombs  at  the  foot  of  a  royal  pyramid 
was  gradually  abandoned  by  the  nobles  at  the  close  of  the  Ancient 
Empire ;  they  preferred  to  be  buried  near  their  own  homes.  Like 
the  Pharaohs  they  built  for  themselves  small  Bkick  Pyramids  upon 
square  or  rectangular  bases.  The  tomb-chamber  was  formed  in  the 
tliickness  of  the  wall  or  dug  out  of  the  ground  beneath ;  and  a  tomb- 
stone was  erected  on  the  outside,  before  which  the  survivors  recited 
their  prayers  or  presented  their  offerings.  But  the  high  and  steep 
declivity  of  the  desert-plateau  did  not  always  offer  space  enough 
for  such  free-standing  tombs;  and  at  various  points  graves  were 
hewn  in  the  rock,  a  practice  of  which  there  were  isolated  examples 
even  under  the  Ancient  Empire  (p.  139).  In  accordance  with  the 
fundamental  conception  of  the  tomb  as  the  Home  of  the  Dead,  each 
of  these  Rock  Tombs  must  contain  the  four  principal  divisions  of 
the  ancient  Egyptian  dwelling-house.  Thus  a  Forecourt,  usually 
surrounded  with  a  brick  wall,  was  provided  in  the  open  air  in  front 
of  the  tomb,  generally  ending  in  a  small  Colonnade  with  two  pillars 
or  columns  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  Beyond  this  was  a  large  Chamber 
with  columns  or  pillars,  followed  by  a  small  Chamber  or  Recess, 
which  contained  the  statue  of  the  deceased,  frequently  accompanied 
by  that  of  his  wife,  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  and  thus  corresponded 
to  the  serdab  (p.  clxviii)  of  the  old  mastabas. 

This  dwelling-house  arrangement  is  most  distinctly  seen  in  the 
rock-tombs  of  Benihasan  and  Assuau  [comp.  pp.  227,  358).  The 
inner  walls  are  covered  with  inscriptions  and  representations,  which, 
though  more  varied  in  subject  than  those  of  the  earlier  tombs,  agree 
with  them  in  being  intended  to  provide  for  the  enjoyment  of  the 
deceased.  The  unembellished  sarcophagus-chamber  was  reached 
from  the  first  hall  by  a  perpendicular  shaft  hewn  in  the  rock. 

The  Tombs  of  the  New  Empiee  coincide  in  their  general  fea- 
tures with  those  of  the  Middle  Empire.  At  this  date  also  both  free- 
standing tombs  (mastabas  and  pyramidal  tombs)  and  rock-hewn 
tombs  occur,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  site  at  different  places. 
The  former  variety  of  tomb  is  now,  however,  represented  by  very 
few  examples.  In  the  rock-tombs  a  narrow  corridor  is  frequently 
found  between  the  first  hall  and  the  small  inner  chamber  with  the 
statues;  for  their  general  arrangement  and  decoration,  see  the  re- 


VII.    HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxxi 

marks  on  p.  284.  After  the  beginning  of  tlie  18tb  Dyn.  the  Pharaohs 
also  ceased  to  build  pyramids  as  their  last  resting-places,  and  pre- 
pared their  tombs  in  the  slopes  of  a  sequestered  mountain-valley 
on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Nile  near  Thebes.  These  Royal  Tombs  of 
THE  New  Empire  comprised  long  corridors  and  halls,  the  walls  of 
which  were  occupied  by  religious  inscriptions  and  scenes  (comp. 
p.  284).  Like  the  passages  within  the  pyramids,  these  were  exclu- 
sively destined  for  the  reception  of  the  sarcophagus,  while  the 
rock  itself  represented  the  pyramid  built  over  the  grave.  Since 
there  was  no  room  among  the  mountains  for  mortuary  temples,  the 
latter  were  built  (usually  on  a  large  scale)  on  the  plain,  where  their 
ruins  remain  to  this  day. 

The  grandees  of  the  late  period  followed  the  example  of  their 
predecessors  under  the  Middle  Empire  by  imitating  the  tombs  of 
the  Pharaohs  in  preparing  their  own  private  graves.  This  was  the 
case  in  Thebes  at  least.  At  Asasif  (p.  305)  near  Thebes  we  find  in 
their  tombs  a  complicated  series  of  corridors  and  halls,  the  walls  of 
which  are  decorated  with  nothing  but  religious  texts  and  representa- 
tions. Unfortunately  none  of  the  royal  tombs  of  the  last  native 
dynasty  have  as  yet  been  discovered ;  these  must  have  lain  near  the 
large  capitals  in  the  Delta.  1''.ven  of  the  larger  private  tombs  of  this 
epoch  few  have  been  found,  with  the  exception  of  those  at  Thebes 
and  a  few  others  at  Gizeh  and  Sakkara. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Humulbr  Classes  must,  of  course,  have 
largely  outnumbered  those  of  the  grandees;  but  beyond  the  pits 
which  contained  the  bodies,  and  some  gravestones,  they  have  left 
no  traces.  From  pictures  we  know  that  under  the  New  Empire  they 
were  frequently  in  the  form  of  small  brick  pyramids;  but  nearly 
all  have  fallen  victims  to  time.  The  poorer  classes  were  frequently 
buried  in  Common  Tombs,  constructed  by  speculators  in  ruined  tem- 
ples or  in  long  corridors  underground.  In  these  the  corpses  were 
laid  in  plain  coffins  (sometimes  merely  on  planks  or  mats  made  of 
the  fibres  of  palm-leaves),  accompanied  by  simple  gifts  for  their  use 
in  the  future  world.  But  these  common  graves  are  now  almost  all 
covered  by  drift  sand,  and  all  trace  of  them  is  lost. 


2.  Sculpture  and  Fainting. 

No  fair  estimate  of  the  achievements  of  Egyptian  sculpture 
or  of  its  masters  can  be  obtained  from  a  study  of  the  ordinary  co- 
lossal statues,  sphinxes,  and  temple-reliefs;  for  these,  though  they 
are  now  the  most  conspicuous  examples  of  Egyptian  sculpture, 
were,  with  few  exceptions,  exclusively  decorative  and  were  exe- 
cuted by  artisans  rather  than  by  artists.  For  such  an  estimate  an 
acquaintance  must  be  obtained  with  works  produced  by  genuine 
artists,  such  as  the  portrait  statues  and  reliefs  now  preserved  Iti  the 
Museum  of  Cairo,   and  the  reliefs  on  the  walls  of  mastabas,  of  rock 


clxxii 


VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  AKT. 


tombs,  and  of  a  few  special  temples  (notably  the  temples  of  Deir 
el-Bahri  and  Luxor  and  the  temple  of  Sethos  at  Abydos).  Genuine 
art-works,  it  is  true,  are  but  thinly  sown  in  Egypt,  and,  owing  to 
the  enormous  mass  of  sculpture  that  has  been  preserved,  it  is  per- 
haps more  difficult  in  this  than  in  any  other  branch  of  art  for  any 
one  but  an  expert  to  discriminate  the  good  and  artistically  worthy 
from  the  inferior  and  mechanical ;  and  the  difficulty  is  increased 
by  the  fact  that  even  the  best  artists  were  unable  to  emancipate 
themselves  from  certain  traditional  peculiarities  of  representation. 
Our  unbounded  admiration  is  commanded  by  the  wonderful  skill 
with  which  both  artisan  and  artist  could  work  the  hardest  stone 
with  comparatively  primitive  tools.  This  extraordinary  technical 
skill  is  apparent  in  all  the  productions  of  Egyptian  sculpture.  But 
the  qualities  that  differentiate  the  genuine  works  of  art  from  the 
others  are  an  admirable  fidelity  in  portraiture  and  a  charming  sym- 
pathy with  nature,  which  is  specially  apparent  in  the  representa- 
tion of  animals. 


Sculplors  at  work  (from  an  ancient  Egyptian  representation). 


Statues.  We  possess  specimens  of  the  art  of  even  the  Eahliest 
Pbkiod  of  Egyptian  history  in  the  shape  of  primitive  figures  of  men 
and  animals,  mostly  carved  in  bone  or  ivory,  some  of  which  (especially 
among  the  animal  figures)  display  a  high  degree  of  finish.  The 
statues  dating  from  the  end  of  the  2nd  Dyn.  and  the  beginning  of 
the  Ancient  Empire  already  possess  all  the  merits  of  Egyptian 
'sculpture,  though  they  still  show  traces  of  archaic  stiffness.  They 
are  mostly  seated  figures  of  moderate  size,  with  a  constrained  ar- 
rangement of  the  limbs;  the  right  hand  usually  rests  on  the  breast, 
the  left  hand  upon  the  thigh.  When  an  inscription  occurs  it  is  usu- 
ally given  in  relief.  But  the  facial  features  even  in  these  primitive 
works  are  handled  with  a  portrait-like  firmness. 

In  all  Egyptian  statues  the  head  and  trunk  are  carved  with  a 
strict  regard  to  symmetry,  the  only  freedom  ever  taken  being  in  the 


VII.   BISTORT  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxxiii 

arrangement  of  the  arms  and  legs.  If  a  plane  be  conceived  as  de- 
scending vertically  from  the  top  of  the  skull  through  the  face,  breast, 
and  hack,  it  will  he  found  to  divide  the  trunk  into  two  symmetrical 
halves  and  to  form  a  right  angle  with  the  line  of  the  ground;  the 
trunk  bends  neither  to  the  right  nor  to  the  left.  This  principle  of  full- 
face  symmetry,  or  'law  of  frontality',  as  Julius  Lange  named  it,  is 
common  to  the  art  of  all  primitive  races,  and  even  the  Greeks  did 
not  finally  emancipate  themselves  from  it  until  their  plastic  art  had 
attained  its  zenith.  —  Personages  who  were  meant  to  he  invested 
with  a  certain  dignity  are  shown  standing  or  sitting  in  a  quiet 
posture,  or  even  seated  on  the  ground  with  their  legs  folded 
beneath  them.  They  are  often  combined  in  family  groups.  The 
attendants,  on  the  other  hand,  whose  statues  were  placed  in  tlie 
grave  of  the  deceased,  are  represented  as  indulging  freely,  within 
certain  limits,  in  their  usual  occupations.  —  The  art  of  sculpture 
showed  rapid  signs  of  improvement  at  the  beginning  of  the4thDyn., 
and  reached  one  of  its  highest  points  in  this  dynasty  and  the  fol- 
lowing. Among  the  works  of  this  period  preserved  in  the  Museum 
of  Cairo,  most  of  which  are  of  limestone  or  wood,  the  best  are  in- 
dicated at  pp.  82-84.  In  all  these  statues  the  chief  stress  is  laid 
upon  a  faithful  reproduction  of  the  face;  the  rest  of  the  body, 
especially  the  hands  and  feet,  are  conventionally  treated.  The 
artist  frequently  imparted  a  curiously  striking  effect  to  his  statue 
by  iTiserting  eyes  of  black  and  white  quartz,  with  a  wooden  or  copper 
stud  to  represent  the  pupil. 

After  a  period  of  decay  the  art  of  sculpture  attained,  in  tlie 
Middle  Empire,  what  was  probably  its  highest  perfection  in  the 
wliole  course  of  Egyptian  history.  Among  its  masterpieces  were 
the  fine  statue  of  Amenemhet  III.  at  Cairo  (No.  284,  p.  84),  and 
the  statues  and  sphinxes  which  were  formerly  attributed  to  the 
liyksos,  but  which  probably  also  represent  Amenemhet  III.  or  other 
kings  of  the  close  of  the  i'2th  Dyn.  (p.  85).  These  are  marked  by  an 
emphatic  rendering  of  the  spiritual  expression,  and  are  permeated 
by  an  appealing  seriousness.  The  period,  however,  furnishes  us 
also  with  creations  of  much  less  intrinsic  value,  such  as  the  con- 
ventional statues  from  Lisht  (No.  301,  p.  84),  with  their  vacant  faces. 

The  comparatively  large  number  of  Statues  of  the  New  Em- 
pire which  have  come  down  to  us,  most  of  which,  it  is  true,  were 
intended  merely  for  decorative  purposes,  present  a  striking  contrast 
to  those  of  the  Middle  Empire.  In  place  of  the  melancholy  earnest- 
ness shown  by  the  latter  we  find  a  certain  placid  and  attractive 
cheerfulness.  I^xamples  of  incomparable  verisimilitude,  worthy  to 
rank  with  the  best  productions  of  the  earlier  period,  are  not  want- 
ing. Among  these  may  be  mentioned  the  statue  of  Thutmosis  III. 
(No.  400,  p.  85),  the  heads  of  Ameiiophis  IV.  (Nos.  3610-3612, 
p.  93),  the  busts  of  a  married  ro\iple  (No.  745,  p.  87),  the  heads 
of  King  Haremheb,  of  the  god  Khons,   and  of  the  goddess  Mut  in 


clxxiv  VII.  HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

the  Museum  at  Cairo  (No.  451,  p.  85;  No.  491,  p.  86;  No.  456,  p.  85), 
besides  a  few  other  specimens  in  European  museums.  In  many 
cases  the  artists  have  abandoned  an  attempt  to  produce  a  faithful 
portrait  in  favour  of  ideal  beauty,  devoting  much  of  their  energy 
to  the  representation  of  the  coiffure,  the  ornaments,  and  the  flowing 
garments  then  fashionable.  Many  new  types  were  invented  in  this 
period,  such  as  the  figure  of  a  man  crouching  on  the  ground  and 
enveloped  in  a  voluminous  mantle. 

After  the  20th  Dyn.  art  steadily  declined  until  the  time  of  the 
Ethiopian  monarchs,  when  it  again  revived  under  the  inspiration  of 
the  models  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires.  At  last  began  a 
later  period  of  bloom,  which  has  justly  been  styled  the  period  of  the 
Egyptian  Renaissance  (p.  cv).  The  prevalent  tendency  at  this 
epoch  was  towards  a  careful  study  of  portraiture,  and  it  produced 
some  extraordinarily  good  work,  especially  in  the  26th  Dyn.,  in  the 
portraits  of  bald-headed  priests,  in  which  the  characteristic  points 
(such  as  the  shape  of  the  skull)  are  indicated  in  a  masterly  manner, 
while  the  less  significant  details  are  ignored.  The  best  specimens 
of  this  great  style  of  art  are  now  in  Berlin  ,  and  with  the  exception 
of  the  fine  head  of  the  aged  Mentemhet  (No.  1084,  p.  89)  and  a  few 
smaller  statues  there  are  unfortunately  no  examples  of  it  in  the 
Cairo  Museum,  where  the  traveller  will  find  only  insipid,  sim- 
pering productions  of  the  Egyptian  Renaissance.  —  Though  these 
realistic  works  show  no  trace  of  Greek  influence,  the  development 
of  sculpture  from  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies  on  shows  the  influence 
of  Greek  art  in  an  ever -increasing  degree.  Side  by  side  with 
purely  Greek  works  (chiefly  in  Alexandria)  and  purely  Egyptian 
works,  the  sculptors  of  which  clung  anxiously  and  mechanically  to 
the  ancient  style,  we  meet  with  specimens  of  a  peculiar  hybrid 
Grseco- Egyptian  style,  in  which  the  figures  are  Greek  in  attitude 
and  Egyptian  in  drapery,  coifl'ure,  and  adornment,  or  vice  versa. 
However  valuable  these  may  be  for  an  appreciation  of  Egyptian 
civilization  at  a  late  period ,  they  certainly  carry  no  satisfaction  to 
the  eye  intent  upon  artistic  efl'ects. 

Beliefs  and  Paintings.  Egyptian  reliefs  are  either  Bas-Rellefs, 
the  earliest  and  at  all  periods  the  commonest  form,  or  Incised  Beliefs 
('reliefs  en  creux'),  in  which  the  design  is  sunk  below  the  surface. 
This  form,  which  is  peculiar  to  Egypt,  first  appears  under  the  4th 
Dyn.  and  always  serves  as  a  cheap  substitute  for  bas-reliefs.  The 
sculptors  of  the  New  Empire,  however,  have  often  succeeded  in 
producing  very  attractive  effects  by  the  skilful  use  of  its  peculi- 
arities. Egyptian  relief  attained  its  highest  point  under  the  5th 
Dyn.  (p.  xcix).  The  high  level  of  technical  and  artistic  skill  at 
that  period  is  best  illustrated  in  the  mastabas  of  Ti  and  Ptahhotep 
at  Sakkara  (pp.  149,  163),  and  in  the  reliefs  from  the  mortuary 
temples  of  the  kings  of  the  5th  Dyn.  (p.  82).  Under  the  6th  Dyn. 
and  during  the  Middle  Empire  the  execution  of  the  reliefs  had 


vn.  HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART.  clxxv 

distinctly  begun  to  decline,  and  it  is  not  till  we  reach  the  works 
of  the  18th  Dyn.  [e.g.  in  the  temples  of  Luxor  and  Deir  el-Bahri, 
and  in  some  of  the  graves  of  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Kurna)  that  we  find 
some  approach  to  the  old  excellence.  From  this  period  on  the 
decline  is  steady,  though  a  few  graceful  and  attractive  reliefs  were 
produced  in  the  time  of  Sethos  I.  (e.y.  in  Abydos,  p.  239).  The 
too  lavish  demands  made  upon  artistic  resource  for  the  decoration 
of  the  numerous  new  temples  led,  under  Ramses  II.,  to  a  rough  and 
ready  style  of  work,  the  defects  of  which  were  multiplied  under 
Merenptah.  —  In  the  SaKte  Period  the  works  of  the  Ancient  Empire 
were  again  selected  as  models  for  sculptures  in  this  branch  of  the 
plastic  art,  though  no  attempt  was  made  to  rival  the  ancient  masters 
Affith  actual  copies.  But  all  the  same  the  reliefs  of  this  period  ofler  a 
pleasing  contrast  to  those  of  the  reign  of  Ramses  II.,  in  their  deli- 
cate and  exact  execution,  and  in  a  certain  elegance  and  a  charming 
softness  of  form.  —  Art  under  the  Ptolemies  was  at  first  content  to 
follow  in  the  track  of  the  Saite  artists;  but  it  gradually  grew  more 
and  more  crude,  and  the  temple-walls  were  overladen  with  rows  of 
tasteless  reliefs,  contrasting  with  the  good  taste  shown  by  the  ear- 
lier artists  in  interspersing  decorated  with  undecorated  surfaces. 
The  figures  of  men  and  gods  in  these  became  heavy  and  shapeless, 
so  that  their  features  and  limbs  have  a  swollen  appearance.  Unfor- 
tunately the  reliefs  of  this  late  period  of  Egyptian  art  are  the  most 
numerous  and  most  conspicuous  in  Upper  Egypt,  and  thus  it  is  that 
the  traveller  is  inclined  to  assign  to  Egyptian  sculpture  a  much 
lower  rank  than  even  its  mediocre  productions  deserve.  —  All  re- 
liefs were  painted,  but  many  of  them  have  now  lost  every  trace  of 
colour.  "When  Painting  was  used  instead  of  sculpture  (as,c.jf.,  in  the 
tombs  of  the  18th  Dyn.  at  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Kuriia,  p.  309),  it  was  so 
either  in  order  to  save  expense  or  because  the  available  stone  was 
not  suitable  for  carvings.  That  the  same  rules  of  drawing  applied 
to  paintings  as  applied  to  reliefs  need  scarcely  be  stated. 

It  is  difficult  for  the  ordinary  student  to  obtain  a  proper  ap- 
preciation of  Egyptian  reliefs  and  paintings,  owing  to  the  peculiar 
style  of  Drawing.  This  arose  in  the  prehistoric  age,  but  was  re- 
modelled at  a  very  early  period  of  Egyptian  history,  and  it  is  easy 
to  recognize  how  in  the  course  of  time  the  means  for  representing 
the  phenomenal  world  were  multiplied.  Many  forms  of  the  earlier 
period,  however,  were  religiously  adhered  to.  The  characteristic 
Egyptian  drawing  represents  the  human  figure  as  a  composition 
of  the  various  parts  of  the  body  drawn  from  different  points  of 
view.  The  head  is  seen  from  the  side,  while  the  eyes  are  drawn  from 
the  front.  The  shoulders  are  shown  facing  us,  without  foreshort- 
ening, and  the  rest  of  the  body  and  the  feet  and  legs  in  profile. 
The  inconsistencies  of  this  method  were  felt  by  the  later  Egyptian 
artists,  and  the  difficulty  was  got  over  by  treating  the  whole  as  in 
three-quarter  profile.  Alongside  of  this  normal  type  there  gradually 


clxxvi  VII.   HISTORY  OF  EGYPTIAN  ART. 

developed  tlie  use  of  a  correct  profile  representation.  This  is  some- 
times met  as  early  as  the  5th  Dyn.  but  was  not  handled  witli  per- 
fect certainty  until  the  second  half  of  the  18th  Dynasty.  At  this 
time  the  Egyptian  art  of  drawing  had  attained  its  zenith.  Nothing 
of  equal  excellence  is  found  of  a  later  date.  The  traveller  will  find 
the  best  opportunity  to  study  the  works  of  this  period  at  Sheikh 
^ibd  el-Kurna  and  Tell  el-'Amarna  (pp.  309,  212).  —  The  ani- 
mals, upon  the  realistic  reproduction  of  which  the  artists  bestow- 
ed great  care  and  devotion,  are  shown  in  an  almost  correct  pro- 
file position.  —  Mention  may  be  made  also  of  another  rule  of 
Egyptian  composition  which  originated  in  the  effort  to  represent 
each  object  in  the  clearest  and  most  complete  manner.  Thus  per- 
.sons,  animals,  etc.,  supposed  to  be  behind  others  are  depicted  in 
rows  above  them,  and  objects  intended  to  be  lying  upon  tables  are 
depicted  standing  above  the  tables.  At  the  same  time  the  principle 
that  objects  lying  behind  other  objects  are  concealed  was  recognized 
even  at  an  early  period.  The  principal  personages  in  a  representation 
are  indicated  by  the  primitive  device  of  delineating  them  on  a  much 
larger  scale  than  the  other  figures. 

The  art  of  drawing  in  Egypt  was  hampered  from  time  immemor- 
ial by  a  number  of  designs  that  were  copied  again  and  again,  though 
some  alterations  were  gradually  introduced.  In  the  course  of  cen- 
turies the  ancient  treasury  of  types  was  increased  by  the  addition 
of  new  and  valuable  motives.  Thus,  e.g.,  the  Ancient  Empire 
furnishes  numerous  scenes  from  the  life  of  the  people  on  the  large 
landed  estates,  which  are  often  marked  by  a  charming  naivete  and 
a  delicate  observation  of  nature.  In  the  5th  Dyn.  pictures  of  mili- 
tary import  join  the  circle  of  representations  used  in  the  mortuary 
temples,  while  under  the  Middle  Empire  we  find  scenes  of  the  life 
at  the  courts  of  the  provincial  princes,  and  various  new  burial  scenes. 
The  supply  of  material,  however,  dates  its  greatest  increase  from 
the  period  of  the  18th  Dyn.,  when  Egypt  became  a  world  power 
through  its  political  relations  with  Asia  Minor,  and  when  the  horizon 
of  the  artists  had  consequently  become  much  more  extensive.  Under 
Amenophis  IV.  even  the  intimate  life  of  the  royal  family  and  the 
court,  which  no  one  had  previously  ventured  to  represent,  was,  for  a 
time,  drawn  into  the  field  of  art.  Under  the  19th  Dyn.  and  under 
Ramses  III.  new  tasks  were  imposed  upon  the  artists,  who  were  called 
upon  to  represent  the  warlike  deeds  of  the  king,  and  to  execute  huge 
pictures  of  battles.  The  beginning  of  this  new  tendency  may  indeed 
be  recognized  in  the  18th  Dyn.,  as  in  the  reliefs  on  the  chariot  of 
Thutmosis  IV.  in  the  Museum  at  Cairo  (No.  2080,  p.  90).  With  the 
end  of  the  New  Empire  the  supply  of  types  again  shrinks  and  be- 
comes inferior  even  to  that  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  In  scenes  of  the 
kind  here  referred  to  the  artist  found  a  free  field  for  his  powers  of 
invention.  When,  however,  he  had  to  reproduce  ceremonial  scenes, 
he  had  naturally  to  adhere  more  or  less  rigidly  to  the  ancient  models. 


Vll.    HISTORY  OF  KGYPTIAN  ART.  clxxvii 

Among  the  subjects  thus  stereotyped  were  scenes  relating  to  the 
intercourse  of  the  king  with  the  gods  (in  prayer  or  sacrifice),  the 
celebration  of  certain  festivals,  and  the  slaughtering  of  animals  for 
sacrifice. 

In  the  practice  of  the  Artistic  Handicrafts,  such  as  cabinet- 
making,  glass-blowing,  and  the  production  of  coloured  fayence, 
Egypt  was  perfect.  Tlie  goldsmiths  and  workers  in  metal  in  parti- 
cular had  attained  the  most  complete  mastery  of  their  craft;  they 
thoroughly  understood  all  its  ancillary  arts,  such  as  enamelling  and 
damascene  work,  and  they  were  thus  able  to  produce,  especially  with 
the  aid  of  coloured  gems  and  fayence  inlays,  works  of  a  degree  of 
finish  and  brilliancy  such  as  a  highly  civilized  nation  alone  could 
execute  and  appreciate. 

The  traveller  should  note  the  signification  of  some  of  the 
Symuols    and   Signs   most  commonly   used  in   sculpture  and   as 

architectural  ornamentations.     Thus,    f  is  the  crook  or  shepherd's 

staff,    the   emblem   of  the   prince   or   monarch;   m\   a    fan,    tlie 

symbol   of  kingly  power;    -r"    the   sign   of  life;     ]T    (p.    1569)   the 

sign  of  steadfastness;  \J  the  red  crown  of  Lower  Egypt; 
Q  the  white  crown  of  Upper  Egypt ;  Yj  the  united  crown  of 
tipper  Egypt  and  Lower  Egypt;   i/y  the  blue  crown  of  the  king; 


Ik """ 


the  Uraius  or  royal  serpent,    represented  on  diadems 

and  suns  by  }Qj.  Its  function  was  to  avert  hostile  influences, 
just  as  the  Urpeus  serpent  had  once  destroyed  with  its  poison  the 
enemies  of  the  sun-god.  The  winged  sun-disk,  ;^SS7,  the  emblem 
of  Horns  of  Edfu,  was  frequently  placed  over  the  doors  of  temples 

to  avert  everything  evil.  The  sceptre,  )  iveser,  denoted  wealth; 
n  maat,  an  ostrich -feather.,  truth  and  justice;  Vhj  khepre,  the 
scarabaeus  or  beetle,  is  a  form  of  the  sun -god  and  was  frequently 
worn  as  an  amulet.  The  symbol  V  (originally  meaning  a  lung)  sig- 
nifies union.  It  is  frequently  entwined  wi  h  lilies  and  papyrus- 
plants,  when  it  is  symbolical  of  the  union  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Egypt  and  is  equivalent  to  the  national  arms  of  Egypt.  The  lock  "5 
on  the  temple  of  a  figure  marks  it  as  a  child,  at  a  later  period 
generally  the  offspring  of  the  gods  or  of  the  kings. 

Baedeker's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  m 


clxxviii 

VIII.  Buildings  of  the  Mohammedans. 

By  Franz- Pasha, 

The  Moliammedan  style  of  architecture  iu  the  ■valley  of  the  Nile 
was  founded  upon  the  forms  of  art  which  the  victorious  Arabs 
found  in  vogue  among  the  Byzantines  and  the  Copts,  and  upon  those 
of  Persian  art  of  the  era  of  the  Sassanides.  The  huildiiigs  in  Egypt 
exhibit  a  considerable  variety  coupled  with  a  certain  finish  of  style, 
but  none  of  them  dates  back  to  the  first  period  of  the  Arabic  dominion ; 
for  the  professors  of  the  new  religion  were  for  centuries  content 
merely  to  adapt  the  religious  edifices  of  the  conquered  countries  as 
mosques.  This  was  a  process  of  little  difficulty,  for  the  ceremonial 
requirements  of  the  new  religion  were  comparatively  simple,  and 
it  took  place  in  all  parts  of  the  great  empire  of  the  Caliphs.  From 
casual  references  by  the  Arabian  chroniclers  we  learn  that  the 
earliest  prayer-houses  built  by  the  Arabs  were  merely  enclosed  courts, 
along  the  walls  of  which  ran  covered  passages,  supported  by  palm 
trunks,  in  order  to  shelter  the  worshippers  from  sun  and  rain. 
Even  the  large  mosque  built  by  the  Khalita  'Abdallah  in  Omdurman 
(p.  430)  is  of  this  type.  Costly  mosques,  with  marble  arcades,  be- 
gan to  appear  very  gradually,  under  the  influence  of  the  ancient 
edifices  and  of  the  increasing  wealth  flowing  from  the  military 
successes  of  the  Mohammedans.  Columns  from  Greek  and  Roman 
temples  and  even,  in  some  cases,  from  early-Egyptian  buildings, 
were  freely  employed  in  these  later  mosques.  This  employment  of 
ancient  columns  in  the  mosques,  frequently  without  any  regard  to 
harmony  of  style  or  size,  brings  it  about  that  uniformity  in  the 
architecture  of  the  arcades  is  observed  only  when  the  abacus  is 
reached.  No  distinct  Arabian  order  of  columns  was  thus  ever  de- 
veloped in  Egypt.  A  few  Arabian  forms  of  capital  (one  a  curious 
form  of  calyx-capital,  another  including  a  wreath  of  stalactites  as 
the  transition  between  the  shaft  and  the  abacus)  are  the  only  evi- 
dence of  any  effort  towards  originality  iu  this  direction. 

The  most  prominent  characteristic  peculiarities  of  Arabian  archi- 
tecture are  the  following  :  — 

1.  The  use  of  the  pointed  arch  (Mosque  of  Ibn  TuliVn,  p.  71)  and 
the  Byzantine  stilted  round  arch,  as  well  as  of  the  round  and  pointed 
horseshoe  arch,  the  scalloped  arch,  the  clover-leaf  arch,  and  the 
'keel'  arch.  These  (except  the  scalloped  and  clover -leaf  arches) 
were  accompanied  by  corresponding  forms  of  domes. 

2.  The  development  of  the  form  of  tower  known  as  the  minaret. 

3.  The  refining  of  various  forms  of  pinnacles  that  occur  also  in 
early  Egypt,  Assyria,  Phcenicia,  and  Persia. 

4.  The  employment  in  facades  of  two  colours,  by  alternate 
courses  of  red  and  white  limestone  or  (in  later  examples)  of  black 
and  white  marble. 

5.  The    invention    of    the    elegant    wooden   balconies   and    the 


VIIT.  BUILDINGS  OF  THK  MOHAMMEDANS,     clxxix 

system  of  tlosiag  window-openings  with  niaslirabiyelis  (p.  olxxxv) 
or  with  kamariyehs  (p.  olxxxvi). 

6.  The  development  of  surface  ornaments  into  geometrical 
patterns  of  every  kind  (entrelacs)  or  conventionalized  foliage  (arab- 
esques) ;  the  use  of  Arabic  ornamental  inscriptions  on  friezes  and 
medallions;  and  the  treatment  of  wall-surfaces  and  ceilings  in  rich 
polychrome  hues,  whether  by  painting,  incrustation,  or  mosaic. 

The  chief  monuments  of  Arabian  architecture  in  Egypt  are  the 
religious  editices  (mosques),  fountains,  and  tombs.  The  period 
within  which  these  were  built  extends  from  the  accession  of  the 
Tulunide  sultans  to  the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  the  Turks.  The  earlier 
mosques  have  left  hardly  a  trace  behind,  and  our  knowledge  of  them 
depends  upon  the  obviously  exaggerated  and  often  confused  de- 
scriptions of  the  Arabic  writers.  The  later  mosques  are  of  little 
artistic  value.  Some  of  them  display  a  union  of  Turkish-Arabic 
architectural  forms  with  Egyptian-Arabic  ornamentation. 

The  only  existing  building  dating  from  the  Tulunide  Pbhioh 
(868-905)  is  the  Mosque  of  Ibn  Tulun  (p.  71).  The  oldest  plaster 
decorations  in  this  mosque  display  a  system  of  ornamentation,  the 
various  elements  in  which  remain,  as  in  the  antique,  separate  and 
distinct,  though  some  of  them  are  so  unusual  in  form  «s  to  defy 
classitication  under  any  known  style. 

In  the  Fatimitb  Pekiod  (969-1171)  that  followed,  the  character- 
istic intertwined  geometrical  patterns,  ^vith  spaces  filled  up  by  Arabic 
ornamentation  showing  a  tendency  to  the  Byzantine  style,  begin  to 
appear.  Bricks  ceased  to  be  the  exclusive  building-material  and 
hewn  stone  was  used  for  portions  of  the  edifices;  the  mosque  of  El- 
Akinar  (p.  76)  showed  the  first  example  of  a  stone  facade  with 
stalactites.  The  portals  began  to  be  placed  in  recesses,  and  small 
cupolas  made  their  appearance  in  the  interior  of  the  mosques.  The 
pointed  arch  of  the  mosque  of  Ibn  Tulun  gave  place  to  the  Persian 
'keel'  arch.  Towards  the  close  of  this  period  forms  began  to  be 
adopted,  especially  in  military  architecture,  that  seem  to  have  been 
copied  from  the  buildings  of  the  Crusaders  in  Syria  and  Palestine. 

The  leading  characteristic  of  the  Aiyubide  Peeiod  (1171-1'250) 
was  the  introduction  of  the  ground-plan  of  the  Persian  medreseh, 
which  superseded  the  previously  used  ground-plan  of  the  courts 
until  the  first  Mameluke  period.  Large  domes  began  to  be  built 
over  the  mausolea,  which  as  founders'  tombs  were  placed  near  the 
sanctuaries  of  the  mosques. 

To  the  First  Bahrite  Mameluke  Dynasty  (1250- 1382)  we 
owe  a  number  of  huge  editices,  with  ground-plans  in  both  the  above- 
mentioned  styles  and  exhibiting,  especially  in  the  facades,  the  in- 
fluence of  the  architecture  of  the  Crusaders.  Most  of  these  struc- 
tures date  from  the  reigns  of  Beybars  and  Kalaun,  the  latter  of  whom 
raised  the  first  minaret  of  stone.  Under  En-Nasir  endeavours  began 
to  be  made  to  design  facades  independent  of  foreign  influence. 


clxxx     VIII.   BUILDINGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMEDANS. 

Under  tlie  Second  Cikcassian  Mameluke  Dynasty  (iSS2-ibiT) 
the  mosque-facade  attained  its  zenith,  and  from  this  period  date  the 
most  elegant  achievements  of  Arabic  architectnre  in  Egypt.  The 
facades  assumed  a  more  homogeneous  character;  the  minarets,  of 
enhanced  elegance  ever  since  the  days  of  Kalaim,  reached  their 
highest  development;  the  domes,  now  also  built  of  stone  (see  below), 
were  richly  adorned  with  sculpture;  and  the  walls,  ceilings,  pave- 
ments, and  even  domestic  furniture  were  sumptuously  embellished 
with  mosaics,  panels,  carvings,  and  stalactites.  The  first  dome  luiilt 
of  stone  was  that  of  the  mosque  of  Barkuk  (p.  112). 

The  use  of  written  characters  has  played  a  prominent  part  in 
the  decoration  of  Arabic  buildings  at  all  times,  and  the  art  did  not 
deteriorate  in  the  latest  period.  Under  the  Tiilunides  the  closely 
written  Cufic  character  was  employed,  while  under  the  !''atinutes, 
and  still  more  under  the  Aiyubides,  the  letters  became  taller  and 
more  slender.  The  letters  themselves  and  the  spaces  between  them 
were  embellished  with  ar;ibesque  ornamentation.  Under  the  Aiyu- 
bides the  cursive  charai-tcr  known  as  Naskhi  was  used  also;  and  the 
friezes  of  intertwined  letters  dating  from  the  period  of  the  Mame- 
lukes frequently  rise  to  the  dignity  of  works  of  art. 

We  may  now  proceed  to  an  examination  of  the  special  kinds  of 
buildings,  beginning  with  the  Religious  Edifices. 

Mosques  are  of  two  kinds ,  the  Gdmi',  lit.  an  assembly  for 
prayer,  and  Mesgid,  the  place  where  the  knee  is  bent  for  prayer. 
The  oldest  mosques  are  very  simple  in  plan  (comp.  the  plan  of  the 
mosque  of  Ibn  Tiilun,  p.  72).  Around  a  quadrilateral  court  (SahnJ, 
lorresponding  to  the  atrium  of  a  Byzantine  basilica,  lie  four  flat- 
roofed  colonnades  ('^'■""''nv',  used  for  prayers.  Tlie  Chief  L'lwan  or 
Sanctuary,  placed  on  the  side  next  Mecca,  has  usually  four  oi  live 
aisles,  the  others  never  more  than  two.  The  Cruciform  Mosque, 
a  new  form  invented  in  Persia,  was  introduced  into  Egypt  about  the 
end  of  the  12th  <eiit.  by  the  Aiyubide  Saladin.  This  was  developed 
from  the  previous  simple  form  by  the  construction  of  additional 
chambers  at  the  four  corners  of  the  liwans,  in  such  a  way  that  the 
liwans,  now  covered  with  massive  waggon-vaults,  formed  the  four 
arms  of  a  cross.  Comp.  the  plan  of  the  Sultan  Hasan  mosque  (p.  67). 
These  liwans  were  used  as  school-rooms,  whence  arose  the  name 
Medreseh,  or  'school-mosque'.  —  Towards  the  close  of  the  Mameluke 
supremacy  still  another  form  arose,  used,  however,  only  for  small 
mosques.  The  side-liwans  were  shortened  and  the  central  court  so 
contracted  that  it  could  be  roofed  over  and  lighted  from  the  top. 
The  four  arms  of  the  cross  were  covered  with  fiat  wooden  roofs,  like 
the  colonnades  in  the  original  form  of  mosque,  while  the  waggon- 
vaulting  was  represented  merely  by  a  transverse  rib  on  the  side  next 
the  court  (comp.  the  plan  of  the  mosque  of  Kait  Bey,  p.  114). 

With  the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  the  Turks  under  Selim  I.  (1517), 
the  Turkish-Byzantine  style  of  architecture  also  made  its  appearance 


Vin.   r.Dir.DINGS  of  THK  MOITAMMEPANS.     tlxxxi 

ill  that  country.  The  four  liwans  were  superseded  by  a  single  sanc- 
tuary, consisting  of  a  main  building  covered  with  domes  and  usually 
preceded  by  a  second  court  (comp.  the  plan  on  p.  69). 

The  smaller  prayer-rooms,  frequently  added  to  private  houses 
and  not  unlike  the  Christian  chapels,  are  known  as  Zawiyeh. 

The  ExTERioE  of  the  earliest  mosques  was  absolutely  plain.  The 
court  was  enclosed  by  a  simple  battleniented  wall  and  was  entered 
liy  an  unadorned  doorway.  It  was  not  until  the  Egyptians  beheld 
the  buildings  of  the  Crusaders  in  Syria  and  Palestine  that  they  began 
to  elaborate  the  facades  of  their  mosques.  The  hitherto  smooth 
walls  were  now  interrupted  by  panels  or  fields,  receding  about  8  or 
10  inches,  but  again  brought  forward  to  the  level  of  the  facade  by 
smooth  slanting  surfaces  immediately  below  the  unobtrusive  bat- 
tlemented  main  cornice.  In  these  panels  were  placed  the  windows 
(rectangular  or  arched),  frequently  arranged  in  pairs  with  a  smaller 
circular  or  star-shaped  window  above  usually  closed  with  kamariyeh 
(p.  clxxxvi).  The  main  portal  was  a  deep  rectangular  recess,  with  a 
stone  bench  on  either  side,  and  terminating  at  the  top  in  a  half- 
dome,  embellished  with  stalactites.  The  doorway  at  the  inner  end 
of  the  recess  was  surmounted  by  an  architrave-arch  and  a  relieving 
arch.  The  door  itself,  often  richly  panelled,  is  usually  adorned  on 
one  side  with  embossed  or  chased  bronze  decorations.  The  threshold 
generally  consisted  of  a  block  of  granite  taken  from  an  Egyptian 
monument.  The  low  railing  here  (or  on  the  steps  below)  marks  the 
boundary  to  which  the  visitor  may  penetrate  without  removing  his 
shoes  or  sandals. 

"NVe  now  turn  to  inspect  the  Internal  Equipment  of  the  mosque. 
The  centre  of  the  Court  was  originally  occupied  by  a  fountain,  be- 
neath a  canopy  supported  upon  columns.  This  was  intended  for 
ornament  only,  for  the  prescribed  ablutions  were  performed  at  a 
special  basin  (Meida)  in  an  adjoining  court.  Under  Turkish  rule 
tlie  fountain  was  frequently  replaced  by  an  apparatus  provided 
with  taps  and  known  as  the  Hane/^i/e/*. 

The  5anctMarj/ contains  the  Kihla  or  Mihrdb,  the  prayer-niclie 
turned  towards  Mecca.  Here  we  further  observe  :  (1)  the  Minbar,  or 
pulpit,  to  the  right  of  the  Kibla,  usually  embellished  with  orna- 
mental panels  and  incrustation;  (2)  the  Kursi,  the  seat  of  the 
Imam,  together  with  a  desk  forjthe  Koran;  (3)  the  Dikkeh.  a  podium 
borne  by  columns,  and  surrounded  by  a  low  railing,  from  which  the 
Muballighin  (assistants  of  the  celebrant)  repeat  the  words  of  the. 
Koran  and  the  ritualistic  gestures  for  the  benefit  of  the  more  dis- 
tant worshippers;  (4)  the  lamps  and  lanterns  (  T(;nnt/r,  large  chan- 
delier; Toreiya,  lit.  'seven  stars',  small  chandelier ;  FdnHs,  lamp, 
h'andtl ,  small  oil-lamp)  which  hang  by  wires  from  the  iron  braces 
and  ceilings  of  the  arcades  as  in  all  the  liwans. 

The  sanctuary  is  frequently  adjoined  by  the  Turba  or  Mortuary 
f^hapel  of  the  founder.    This  is  usually  a  square  chamber,  contain- 


c]\\\u     VIII.    Bnil-IMNGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMEDANS. 

iiig  a  catafalque  above  tlic  vaulted  tombs  in  wMch  the  deceased 
are  placed  with  due  atteirtiou  to  the  sepcaration  of  the  sexes.  The 
chapel  is  covered  by  a  dome,  the  transition  to  which  from  the 
square  ground-plan  is  effected  by  means  of  a  delicately  articulated 
intermediate  construction,  tapering  gradually  to  an  octagon.  In 
the  examples  dating  from  the  Fatimite  period,  the  pendentives 
corresponding  to  the  four  bevelled  angles  of  the  intermediate  struc- 
ture retain  the  large  spherical  niches  borrowed  from  Roman  and 
}*.yzantine  models.  These  were  replaced,  under  the  Aiyubides,  by 
several  rows  of  prism-shaped  niches,  and  finally,  under  the  Mame- 
lukes, by  more  or  less  complicated  arrangements  of  stalactite-pen- 
dentives.  These  last  are  formed  by  a  system  of  gradually  projecting 
courses  of  stone,  embellished  by  dwarf  domes  and  niches  exhibiting 
a  very  great  variety  of  profile-outline. 

The  oldest  mosques  seem  to  have  had  no  Minarets  (Mddna). 
The  earlier  examples  of  these  towers  were  square  throughout,  taper- 
ing upwards,  and  were  covered  by  a  simple  conical  roof.  The  later 
examples  are  square  at  the  base  but  assume  a  cylindrical  or  poly- 
gonal form  in  the  upper  stories,  and  are  embellished  with  galleries 
supported  by  stalactite-cornices  and  with  balconies;  the  top  story  is 
formed  of  columns  or  pilasters  bearing  a  roof  consisting  of  a  dome- 
shaped  protuberance.  The  minarets  contain  winding  staircases,  two 
being  sometimes  arranged  round  the  same  newel  for  the  convenience 
of  the  blind  men  who  are  preferred  as  Muezzins  (^Mu'eddin,  p.  Ixxxvii). 
The  wooden  rods  and  hooks  on  the  galleries  and  top  stories  are  used 
for  hanging  up  the  lamps  during  the  fasting  month  of  Ramadan. 

Since  the  end  of  the  14th  cent.,  following  the  example  set  by 
the  mosque  of  the  Emir  Gai  el-Yusefl  at  Cairo  (1366),  every  mosque 
has  possessed  a  SebU,  or  public  fountain ,  except  in  cases  when  a 
separate  building  is  erected  for  this.  The  sebils  are  rooms  with 
bronze  railings  at  which  passers-by  may  obtain  water.  The  upper 
story  of  the  sebil  is  a  kind  of  loggia,  supported  by  columns  and  cov- 
ered with  a  tent -roof,  frequently  in  elegant  timber  -  architecture. 
This  is  the  Kuttdb,  or  elementary  school.  The  detached  columns  that 
often  embellish  the  exterior  of  these  buildings  differentiate  them 
from  all  the  other  parts  of  the  mosque-facade,  in  which  columns 
appear  only  built  into  the  angles  or  immured  in  the  masonry. 

Tombs.  The  tombs  of  sultans  and  emirs  and  of  their  families 
are  invariably  built  in  connection  with  mosques  (p.  clxxxi).  On  the 
other  hand  the  Sheikh  Tombs  or  tombs  of  saints  (p.  xc),  which  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  are  independent  structures,  usually 
built  on  the  spot  on  which  the  revered  deceased  ended  his  days. 
These  closely  resemble  the  mortuary  chapels  of  the  mosques  and  are, 
like  them,  covered  with  domes.  The  ordinary  tombs  of  the  Moslems 
are  generally  situated  on  high  ground,  beyond  the  influence  of  the 
moisture  of  the  river,  and  preferably  in  the  desert.  The  subterranean 
vaulted  chambers  are  generally  large  enough  for  four  or  more  bodies, 


VIII.    IllM  1,1)1  N(iS  OK  THK  MOflAMMKDANS.      dxxxiii 

and  are  destitute  of  decoration.  The  corpse,  wrapped  in  white  cotton 
cloth,  is  placed  upon  a  bed  of  sand,  with  the  face  turned  towards 
Mecca,  When  both  sexes  are  interred  in  the  same  vault  a  partition- 
wall  is  erected  to  separate  them.  Above  the  vault  stands  a  cenotaph 
[Tarkibeh  when  of  stone  or  brick,  Tdbfit  when  of  wood)  resting  on  a 
pedestal,  with  a  small  pillar  or  column  at  each  end.  On  the  column 
at  the  head  of  the  grave  is  frequently  represented  a  turban  or 
tarbiish,  indicating  the  rank  and  sex  of  the  deceased.  The  inscrip- 
tions give  the  name  and  the  date  of  death,  with  texts  from  the 
Koran.  Over  tlie  cenotaphs  of  persons  of  distinction  are  often  cano- 
pies, resting  on  four  columns.  Wealthy  families  surround  the  tombs 
with  extensive  buildings  (Hush),  including  rooms  for  mourners, 
sebil,  stables,  custodian's  residence,  etc.  The  tombs  of  the  Caliphs 
and  Mamelukes  at  Cairo  (p.  Ill)  include  many  such  erections,  which 
lend  the  cemeteries  the  appearance  of  small  half-deserted  towns. 

Among  Secular  Buildings  the  Fortifications  of  tlie  citadel  of 
Cairo  (p.  68),  dating  from  the  time  of  Saladin,  recall  the  mediaeval 
castles  of  Europe.  Some  of  the  numerous  gates  in  the  walls  of  Cairo 
date  from  the  Fatimite  period  ;  they  were  probably  built  after  Roman 
models  and  are  distinguished  for  the  skill  with  which  they  are  con- 
structed, especially  for  accuracy  in  the  jointing  of  the  stones. 

Of  the  ancient  Palaces  nothijig  but  ruins  now  remaiiis.  The 
lower  stories,  built  of  massive  blocks,  have  barrel-vaults  and  pointed 
arches  of  hewn  stone,  the  upper  stories  have  similar  vaults  in 
lighter  masonry.  In  one  case,  viz.  the  Dar  Beshtak  Palace  at  Cairo 
(p.  76),  we  observe  remains  of  balconies  and  of  a  projecting,  slightly 
curved  cornice  supported  by  wooden  consoles;  and  traces  of  richly 
painted  and  gilded  coffered  ceilings  are  likewise  met  with.  From  an 
examination  of  the  scanty  remains  and  with  the  help  of  the  Arabic 
writers,  whose  descriptions,  however,  are  seldom  free  from  exagger- 
ations, we  may  conclude  that  the  palaces  resembled  in  general  the 
houses  of  the  richer  private  citizens  (many  of  which  have  been 
preserved),  exceeding  them  only  in  size  and  splendour. 

Dvrelling  Houses  (comp.  the  plans  at  pp.  clxxxiv,  clxxxv)  rarely 
have  more  than  two  stories;  on  the  groundfloor  is  the  Saldmlik,  the 
men's  apartments,  and  on  the  first  floor  the  Hartm  or  Harem,  the 
women's  apartments  and  family  rooms.  The  following  rules  are  gen- 
erally observed  in  the  construction  of  a  dwelling-house  :  —  (1)  The 
principal  rooms  look  into  the  court  or  garden.  (2)  The  windows  look- 
ing to  the  street  are  as  few  as  possible  and  placed  very  high,  while 
those  of  the  upper  floors  are  closed  with  gratings.  (3)  The  passage 
( Dirkeh;  PI.  I,  3)  leading  from  the  street  to  the  court  is  built  in  the 
form  of  an  angle,  to  prevent  people  from  seeing  into  the  court.  (4)  The 
door  to  the  harem  (PI.  II,  4)  is  placed  in  a  separate  court  or,  falling 
that,  in  a  retired  part  of  the  court  of  the  salamlik.  (5)  Tha  recep- 
tion-rooms nf  the  master  of  the  house,  the  servants'  quarters,  kitchen, 
mill,  and  stables  are  arranged  round  the  court  of  the  salamlik. 


clxxxiv     VIII.  BUILDINGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMEDANS. 

Tlie  principal  rooms,  whicU  are  usually  the  only  rooms  with 
any  decoration,  are  the  Mandara  (PI.  I,  7),  the  reception-room  for 
male  visitors,  with  its  Khazneh  or  cabinet;  the  Takhtabosh,  raised  one 
or  two  steps  above  the  level  of  the  court;  and  the  Mak'ad(Fl.  II,  1), 
placed  in  a  kind  of  entresol.  The  two  last  are  built  in  the  style  of 
open  loggias.  To  these  may  be  added  the  Fasklyeh,  a  summer-court 
paved  with  marble  and  containing  a  fountain.    All  these  belong  to 


Plan  I. 

Ground   Floor. 


.^^■^i^f 


--"   ,     11-   [  i,  T^ 


:,;>._  _' x:,ic?ft;>i^ 


1.  Entrance  of  the  House.  2.  Seat  fmastaba)  for  the  doorkeeper  (bauwab). 
3.  Corridor  (dirkeh).  4.  Court  (hosh).  d.  A  kind  of  bower  in  which  visit- 
ors are  received  in  summer.  6.  Fountain.  7.  Mandara.  8.  Servants'  rooms. 
9.  Donkey-stable.  10.  Harness-room.  11.  Room  for  fodder.  12.  Door  lead- 
ing to  the  women's  apartments  (bab  el-harim).  13.  Staircase  leading 
to  the  takhtabosh.  14.  Principal  saloon  (ka'a).  15.  Cabinet  (khazneh). 
16.  Small  court.     1/.  Kitchen.     18.  Bakehouse.     19.  Privy. 


the  salamlik.  On  the  upper  floor  is  the  Kd'a,  the  chief  room  in  the 
harem,  resembling  the  mandara.  In  some  exceptional  cases  the  ka'a 
is  on  the  groiindfloor  (comp.  PI.  I,  14). 

The  ordinary  streets  of  oriental  towns  are  very  narrow,  so 
tliat  no  very  satisfactory  view  is  to  be  had  of  the  facades  and 
grated  balconies  of  the  houses.  The  groundfloor  is  built  of  solid 
ma.«onry  and  its  rooms  are  frequently  vaulted.  The  upper  stories 
overhang  and  are  supported,  together  with  their  balconies  or  oriel 
windows,  by  stone  consoles  of  peculiar  construction.  An  agreeable 
and  effective  contrast  to  the  broad,  flat  surfaces  of  the  hoxise-front  is 


VIIJ.   UDILDJNGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMEDANS,     clxxxv 

offered  by  the  elegantly  shaped  oriel-windows  and  by  the  Mashrabiijehs, 
or  wooden  balcony-gratings,  the  carving  of  which  resembles  inter- 
laced strings  of  beads.  The  deep  door-recesses  (like  those  of  the 
mosques  )also  serve  to  break  the  level  uniformity  of  the  fa5ades.  The 
massivewooden  doors  are  strengthened  with  iron  bands  or  (less  fre- 
quently) studded  with  nails  in  intricate  interlaced  patterns. 

The   entrance- passage  (Dirkeh)   admits   to    the   Hosh  or  court 
(PI.  I,  4),    corresponding   to    the   atrium   of   Roman   houses.    Off 


I'lan  U. 
Kir3t  Floor. 


TjJgST/.-— -.sg:-'. 


1.  Open  hall  (takhtabosh)  or  mak'ad.  2.  Cabinet.  3.  Door  of  the  harem . 
4.  Rooms  of  the  harem  with  mashrabiyehs.  5.  Magazine.  6.  Open  courts. 
7.  Guest-chambers  with  khazneh  and  privy.   S.  Balcony  with  mashrabiyehs. 

this  open  the  rooms  of  the  salamlik:  maudara  and  takhtabosh  or 
mak'ad.  At  the  back  is  the  Bah  el-Harim  (Fl.  12),  or  door  to  the 
staircase  to  the  .upper  floor,  before  which  hangs  a  brightly  coloured 
curtain.  The  staircase  is  usually  narrow  and  without  ornament. 
At  the  top  is  the  vestibule  of  the  Ka'a  (p.  clxxxiv),  the  drawing- 
room  of  the  harem.  The  ka'a  is  usually  a  long  and  narrow  room  with 
a  lofty  ceiling,  and,  strictly  speaking,  consists  of  three  connected 
portions,  ditferentiated  in  shape  and  height  of  ceiling.  The  square 
central  portion,  known  as  the  Durkd'a,  lies  one  step  lower  than  the 
Liwdns  on  each  side.  These  liwans  arc  not  always  of  the  same 
width;  the  broader  one  is  regarded  as  the  place  of  honour  by  the 
ceremonious  Orientals.     The  ceiling  of  the  diirka'a,  always  loftier 


clxxxvi     Vra.  BUILDINGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMMDANS. 

than  those  of  theliwaus,  is  provided  with  a  wooden  cupola  or  lantern, 
with  coloured-glass  windows  ofthe  kind  known  as  Kamariyehs.  These 
^amariyehs  are  plaster -slabs,  ahout  I1/4  inch  in  thickness,  per- 
forated, while  still  soft,  with  patterns  representing  vases  of  flowers, 
houses,  geometrical  figures,  writing-characters,  etc.,  the  openings 
being  afterwards  filled  in  with  coloured  glass.  Owing  to  the  above- 
mentioned  difference  in  the  height  of  the  ceilings,  two  of  the  walls 
of  the  durka'a  rest  upon  supports  which  are  based  upon  massive 
brackets  reaching  far  down  on  the  main  side-walls.  This  arrange- 
ment results  in  a  curious  kind  of  flat  arch,  against  which  some  of 
the  beams  of  the  liwan-ceiling  lean.  The  durka'a  is  paved  with 
coloured  marbles  and  frequently  has  a  fountain  in  the  centre.  The 
liwans  are  paved  with  ordinary  stone  slabs,  concealed  by  rugs  or 
carpets.  On  one  wall  of  the  durka'a  there  is  always  a  Suffa,  a  shelf 
on  which  are  placed  the  cups,  etc.  used  in  entertaining  guests. 
The  walls  of  the  liwans  are  panelled  to  the  height  of  6-10  ft.,  and 
against  them  are  placed  divans,  above  which  is  a  broad  cornice-shelf, 
on  which  are  arranged  porcelain,  chased  metal-work,  and  similar 
ornaments.  Instead  of  panelling,  the  walls  oi'  the  durka'a  have  marble 
mosaics.  The  upper  part  of  the  walls  is  usually  covered  with  smooth 
plaster  or,  in  exceptional  cases,  with  plaques  ol  coloured  fayence. 
The  expanse  of  white  wall  is  usually  broken  by  a  grated  recess  in- 
tended for  female  singers  and  accessible  from  without.  At  the  very 
top  of  the  wall  is  a  broad  concave  frieze,  embellished  with  inscrip- 
tions or  stalactites,  and  forming  the  transition  to  the  usually  elab- 
orate ceiling- decorations.  Light  and  air  are  admitted  to  the][room 
from  one  ofthe  ends,  where  mashrabiyehs  are  inserted  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  wall  and  kamariyehs  in  the  upper  part. 

The  Public  Baths,  usually  of  quite  unpretending  exterior,  are 
frequently  very  large  erections  in  which  marble  is  not  spared;  in 
their  heating  arrangements  they  are  modelled  on  ancient  Roman 
vapour-baths  (comp.  p.  xxvii). 

The  Okellas  (p.  50)  were  important  edifices  when  the  caravan 
trade,  especially  the  caravan-trade  with  the  Red  Sea,  flourished. 
Their  often  extensive  facades  are  of  a  peculiar  type.  The  portals 
resemble  those  of  the  mosques,  and  the  doors  :ind  shutters  of  the 
outer  shops  are  sometimes  carved.  Tlie  central  open  court  accom- 
modated the  caravan,  the  goods  brought  by  which  \yere  deposited  in 
vaulted  chambers  on  the  groundfloor,  while  the  rooms  in  the  upper 
stories,  opening  off  galleries,  were  used  as  lodgings  by  the  merchants. 
The  centre  of  the  court  seems  in  each  case  to  have  been  occupied 
by  a  simple  prayer-room  (mosalla). 

When  we  come  to  analyse  the  impressions  produced  by  a  study 
of  Arabic  buildings  in  Egypt,  we  find  that  our  admiration  of  the 
harmonious  and  tasteful  ornamentation,  unsurpassed  by  any  school 
of  architecture,  is  counterbalanced  by  a  certain  feeling  of  aesthetic 
dissatisfaction.  The  main  reason  why  Arabian  art  failed  to  reach  a  higli 


Vlll.   BUILDINGS  OF  THE  MOHAMMEDANS,     clxxxvii 

level  in  technical  ability  as  well  as  in  urnameutation  must  be  looked 
for  in  the  early  collapse  of  the  great  empire  of  the  Caliphs,  in  the 
uncertain  political  circumstances  of  the  period  that  followed,  in 
climatic  and  geological  conditions,  in  the  inflnence  of  superstition, 
and  in  the  characteristic  oriental  tendency  to  adhere  with  obstinate 
fidelity  to  ancient  forms  and  to  leave  unaltered  anything  once  accom- 
plished. However  mmh  admiration  the  arabesque  may  excite,  how- 
ever great  an  influence  it  may  e\ert  on  industrial  art,  we  still  miss 
in  it  the  reproduction  of  living  beings,  the  contemplation  of  which 
invites,  as  it  were,  an  intelligent  and  active  sympathy. 

In  the  period  of  the  Tulunides,  when  Persian  influence  made 
itself  felt  even  in  the  religious  conceptions  of  Egypt,  portraits  were 
painted  and  coloured  wooden  statues  erected  in  the  palaces.  But  no 
long  period  elapse<l  before  tlie  prohibition  of  the  Sunna  (p.  Ixxxv) 
against  the  representation  of  any  living  being  again  came  into  force. 
Ileprpsentations  of  this  kind  arc  therefore  very  rare,  and  are  now  to 
be  found  preserved  only  in  the  low  reliefs  carved  by  Persian  sculptors 
of  the  Shiite  sect.  Statues  and  paintings  have  disappeared  without 
leaving  a  trace.  Painting  and  sculpture  in  modern  Egyptian  art 
have  been  reserved  exclusively  for  the  decoration  of  wall  surfaces 


IX.  Works  on  Egypt. 

HisTor.t  AND  Geogeaph?  of  Anciknt  Egipt. 
Breatted,  Jamet  H.,  History  of  Egypt;  2nd  edit.,  New  Yurk,  1909. 
— ,  Short  History  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians:  New  York,  1908. 
— ,  Ancient  Records  of  Egypt  (a  collection    of  translations  of  Egyptian 

iiistorical  in-seriptions);  5  vols.,  Chicago,  1906-7. 
Jifugsch ,   H.,    Kgypt  under  the  Pharaohs,    transl.   by   P.  Smith,  1874; 

condensed  and  revised  edit,  by  M.  Brodrick,  London,  1S91. 
Budge,  E.  A.  W..  History  nf  Egvpt  from  the  end  of  the  Neolithic  Period 

tr.  Ihe  death  of  Cleopatra  VII.,  B.C.  30;  S  vols.,  London,  1902. 
Hall,  H.  R. ,   The  Ancient  History   of  the  Near  East    from    the  Earliest 

Period  to  the  Persian  Invasion  of  Greece:   London,  1913;  15s. 
King  (L.  W.)  and  Hall  (H.  R.),   History  of  Egypt,   Chaldea,   Syria,  Bab- 
ylonia,  and  Assyria  in  the  Light  of  Becent  Discovery;  London,  1907. 
Mmpeyo,  Sir  G.,   Histoire   aucienne  des   peoples  de   TOrient   classique; 

6th  edit.,  Paris,  1904;  90  fr. 
— .  The  Dawn  of  Civilization  (Egypt  and  Chaldsea),  5th  edit.,  1910;  The 

Struggle  of  the  Nations  (Esypf,  Syria,   and  Assyria),  2nd  edit.,  1910; 

The  Passing  of  the  Empires  (850  B.C.-330  B.C.),  1900;   all  transl.  by 

31.  L.  McClnre  and  published  in  London. 
Meyer,  Ed.,  Geschichte  des  alien  /Egyptens,  Part  I;   Berlin,  1887. 
— ,  Geschichte  des  Altertums,  Vol.  I;  3rd  edit.,  Stuttgart,  1913. 
Newberry  (Perep  E.)   and   Oarttang  (John),   A  Short  Hi^torv  of  Ancient 

Egypt;  3rd  edit.,  London,  1912;  Ss.  6rf. 
Petrie.    H'.  M-  Flinders  (editor),  Illu.strated  History  of  Egypt:  Vols.  Mil. 

From  the  Earliest  Times   to   the   end  of  the  XXXth  Dynasty,  by  the 

Editor  (1897  et  seq);  Vol.  IV.  Under  the  Ptolemaic  Dynasty,  by  Pro/. 

./.  /'.  Maliaff'j  (1899);    Vol.  V.  Under  the  Roman  Rule,  by  /   0.  Milne 

(1898);  V.^1.  VI.  In  the  Middle  Ages,  by  S.  Lane-Poole  (1901). 
Ratolimoii,  G..  History  of  Ancient  Egypt;  London.  2  vols.,  1881. 
Sharpe,  S.,  History  of  Egypt;    new  edit.,  London,  1877  (most  useful  for 

the  Ptolemaic,  Koman,  and  By/.antine  periods). 


clxxxviii  IX.  WORKS  ON  EGYPT. 

Smith,  G.  Elliot,   The  Ancient  Egyptians    and  their  Induence.    upon  the 

Civilization  of  Europe;  London  &  New  York,  1911-,  2s.  6(Z. 
i^teindorff.,G.,  Die  Bliitezeit  des  Pharaiinenreichs ;  Bielefeld,  lUtX);  4  marks. 
Egypt  Exploration  Fund,  An  Atlas  of  Ancient  Egypt;  London,  1894;  'As.  (id. 
Egypt  Exploration  Fund  Memoirs,  since  1883. 

Classical  scholars  should  provide  themselves  with  the  2nd  book  of 
Herodotus  (vvliich  may  be  suitably  supplemented  by  the  commentary  by 
W.  W.  How  and  /.  Wells,  published  at  Oxford  in  1<J12),  the  17th  book  of 
Strabo,  and  the  1st  book  of  Diodorus  Siculns. 

Mediaeval  and  Modern  History  of  Egtpt. 

Butler,  A.  J.,  The  Arab  Conquest  of  Egypt;  Oxford,  1892. 

Cameron,  D.  A.,  Egypt  in  the  19th  Century;  London,  1898. 

Lane-Poole,  S.,  Vol.  V'l.  of  the  Illustrated  History  of  Egypt,  see  p.  clxxxvii. 

— ,  The  Story  of  Cairo,  in  the  Medipeval  Town  Series:  2nd  edit.,  Lon- 
don, 1906;  is. 

McCoan,  J.  C,  Egypt  under  Ismail;  London,  1899. 

Muir,  SirWm..  The  Mameluke  or  Slave  Dynasty  of  Egypt  (1260-1017  A.D.); 
London,  1896. 

Civilization  op  Ancient  Egypt. 

Breasted,  J.  H.,  Development  of  Religion  and  Thought  in  Ancient  Egypt; 
New  York,  1912 ;  $  IV2. 

Budge,  E.  A.W.,  The  Mummy;  chapters  on  Egyptian  funeral  archaeology; 
Cambridge,  1893. 

— ,  The  Gods  of  the  E'jyptians;  2  vols.,  London,  1904. 

Erman,  A.,  Life  in  Ancient  Egypt,  transl.  by  H.  M.  Tirard;  London,  1894. 

— ,  A  Handbook  of  Egyptian  Religion,  transl.  by  Miss  A.  S.  Grifflth; 
London,  1907. 

Maspero,  Sir  G.,  Life  in  Ancient  Egypt  and  Assyria,  transl.  by  Alice  Mor- 
ton; London,  1892. 

Moret,  A.,  Kings  and  Gods  of  Egypt,  transl.  by  Mme.  Moret;  London,  1912 
Is.  6d. 

Petrie,   W.  M.  Flinders,  The   Religion   of  Ancient  Egypt;    London,  1906. 

Sayce,  A-  H.,  The  Religion  of  Ancient  Egypt;  2nd  edit.,  Edinburgh, 
1913;  4s. 

Scott  -  Moncrieff,  P.  D.,  Paganism  and  Christianity  in  Egypt;  Cambridge, 
1913;  6s. 

Steindorff,  G.,  The  Religion  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians ;  New  York  and 
London,  1905. 

Wiedemann,  A.,  Religion  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians ;  London,  1897. 
Wilkinson,  Sir  Gardner,  The  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Ancient  Egyp- 
tians, new  edit,  by  S.  Birch,  3  vols.,  London,  1878. 

Language  and  Literature  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians. 

Budge,  E.  A.  W.,  First  Steps  in  Egyptian;  London,  1895.  —  Egyptian 
Reading  Book  for  beginners;  London,  1896.  —  Easy  Lessons  in  Egyp- 
tian Hieroglyphics;  3rd  edit.,  London,  1910. 

Erman,  A.^  Egyptian  Grammar;  London  and  Berlin,  1902. 

Maspero,  Sir  G.,  Les  contes  populaires  de  I'Egvpte  ancienne;  4th  edit. 
Paris,  1911 ;  7  fr.  50  c. 

Murray,  M.  A.,  Elementary  Coiitic  (Sahidic)  Grammar;  London,  1911. 

Petrie,  W.  M.  Flinders,  Egyptian  Tales,  illus.  by  Tristram  Ellis;  2  vols., 
London,   1895  (ancient   tales  of  Egypt,   edited   from  original  sources). 

Steindorff,  G.,  Koptische  Grammatik;2nd  edit.,  Berlin,  1904;  14  marks  80 pf. 

Language  of  the  Modern  Egyptians. 
Dirr's  Colloquial   Egyptian   Arabic  Grammar,   transl.   by   W.  H.  Lyall; 

London,  1904;  4s. 
Socin,  A.,  Arabic  Grammar,  trans!,  by  Prof.  A.  R.  S.  Kennedy;  2nd  edit., 
Berlin,  1895;  8  marks. 


IX.  WORKS  ON  EGYPT.  clxxxix 

Spiro-Beij,  5.,  A  New  Practical  Grainuuir  of  tbe  Moileni  Araliic  of  Egypt : 

London,  1912;  S$.  &d. 
— ,  Arabic-English  Vocabulary;  Lundoii,  1S95. 
— ,  English-Arabic  V(icabul:iry;  London,   1897. 
Thimtn,  C.  A.,  Egyptian  Self- Taught  (Arabic);   3rd  edit.,   London,  1907; 

2s.  &d. 
VolUrs,  K.,  The  Modern  Egyptian  Dialect  of  Arabic,  tran.sl.  by  F.  C.  Bur- 

kitt;  Canibrid.^e,   iS95. 
Willmore,  J.  S.,  The  Spoken  Arabic  of  Egypt;   2nd  edit..  London,  1905. 
— ,  Manual  of  S|>oken  Egyptian  Arabic;  London,  19U8  (smaller,  practical 

summary  of  the  above). 

Modern  Egyi't  and  JIodern  Egyptians. 
Alexander,   ./.,   The  Truth  about  Egypt;  London,   1911   (deals  with   the 

years  1906-10). 
Colvin,  Sir  Auckland,  The  Making  of  Modern  Egypt;  London,  1906,  18«. ; 

cheap  edit.,  1909,  is. 
Cromer,  J^arl  of.  Modern  Egypt ;  2  vols.,  London,  1908,  24^. ;  one-vol.  edit., 

1911,  7s.  lid. 
Cunningham,  A.,  To-day  in  Egypt:  its  Administration,  People,  and  Poli- 
tics; London,  1912;  I2s.  &d.  ' 
Dicey,  Edw.,  The  Egypt  of  the  Future;  London,  1907;  3*.  6d. 
Edwards,  Amelia  B.,  Pharaohs.  Fellahs,  and  Explorers;  London.  1891. 
Guerville,  A.  B.  Be,  New  Egypt  (with  180  illustrations);  London,  1905,  16j!. ; 

cheap  edit.,  1910,  10*. 
Kelly,  R.  Talbot,  Egypt  painted  and  described;  London,  1902;  20*. 
Lane,  E.  W.,  An  Account  of  the   Manners   and  Customs   of  the   Modern 

Egyptians;  London,  1836;  several  new  editions. 
— ,  Cairo  fifty  years  ago;  edited  by  Stanley  Lane-Poole;   London,  1896. 
Lane-Poole,  S.,  Social  Life  in  Kgypt;  London.  1884. 
— ,  Egypt;  London,  1881. 

Loli,  Pierre,  Egvpt,  transl.  by  W.  P.  Baines;  London,  1909;  15«. 
Milner,  Sir  A.,  England  in  Kgypt;  11th  edit.,  London,  190i. 
Pen.field,  F.  C,  Present  Day  Egypt;  new  edit.,  London,  1903. 
Boyle,  Chat..   The   Egyptian   Campaigns,   1882-85;   new   edit.,   rcvi,<;ed    to 

1899.  London,  1900. 
Spitta-Bey,  Contes  arabes  niodernes;  Leyden,  1883. 
Timdale,   If'.,  An  Artist  in  Egypt;  London,  1912;  20s. 
Warner,  Chas.  Dudley,  Wy  Winter  on  the  Nile;  London,  1881. 
White.  A.  Silva,  The  Expansion  of  Egypt;  London,  1899. 

Scientific  and  Medical  Works. 
B Ian cken horn,  M.,  Geologic  >Egyptens  ;  Berlin,  1901;  10  marks. 
Brehm,  Reiseskizzen  aus  Nord-t)st-Afrika;  2nd  edit..  Jena,  1862. 
Canney,  Leigh,   The  Meteorology  of  Egypt  and   its  influence  on  di.sease 

London,  1897. 
Engel-Bey,  Das  Winterklima  .lEgyptens;  Berlin,  1903;  2V2  marks. 
Ilrirtmann,  Naturgeschichtlich-medicinische  Skizze  der  Nil-Lander;  2  vols., 

Berlin.  1865-IS6. 
Lyons,  II.  G.,  The  Physiogi-aphv  of  the  River  Nile  and  its  Basin;  Cairo, 

l!t06;  40  pias. 
Muschler,  H.,  A  Manuiil  Flora  of  Egypt;  2  vols.,  Berlin,  1912;   40  marks. 
Shelley,  (apt.  O.  E.,  The  Birds  of  Egypt;  London,  1872 
Whymper,  Chas.,  Egyi>tian  Birds;  London,  1909;  20s. 
Willcocks,  Sir  Wm.,  The  Nile  in  1904;  London,  1904. 

IlisTOBT  OF  Egyptian  Art. 
Butler,  A.  ./.,  Ancient  Coptic  Churcbe.<!  of  Egypt;  Oxford,  1884. 
Capart,   Jean,    Primitive  Art    in    Egypt,    transl.    by  Miss  A,  S.  Griffith; 

Philadelphia,   1906. 
Clarke,  S.,  Christian  Antiquities    in  the  Nile  Valley;   Oxford,  1912;  38*. 


xi;  IX.    WORKS  ON    KGYPT. 

Franz-Patha,  J.,  Die  Bankunst  des  Islam  (in  Durm's  Handbach  der  Archi- 
tektur);  Leipzig;,  1896  (3rd  edit.,  by  J.  von  Strzygowski,  in  preparation). 

Maxpero,  Sir  O.,  Art  in  Egypt  (JFanuals  of  National  Arts) ;  London,  1912 ;  6i. 

— ,  Egyptian  Art;  London.  1913;  2ls. 

— ,  Manual  of  Egyptian  ArchiPology ,  transl.  bv  Amelia  B.  Edwards ; 
5tli  edit.,  London,  1902. 

— ,  New  Light  on  Ancient  Egypt;  London,  1908,  12s.  &d.-.  cheap  edit., 
1910,  6s. 

Mileham,  O.  S.,  Churches  in  Lower  Nubia;  London,  1910. 

Perrot  &  C/iipiez,  History  of  Art  in  Ancient  Egypt,  transl.  by  W.  Arm- 
strong; London,  1833. 

Petri'-,  W.  M.  Flinders,  Ten  Years'  Digging  in  Egypt ;  2nd  edit.,  London,  1893. 

— ,  Egyptian  Decorative  Art;  London,  1895. 

— ,  Arts  and  Crafts  in  Ancient  Egypt;  2nd  edit.,  Ediuburgh,  1909;  ijs. 

— ,  Methods  and  Aims  in  Archfeology;  London,  19(J4. 

f^aladin  &  Migeon,    Manuel  d'Art  Musulman ;   2  vols.,   Paris,  1907;  30  fr. 

Books  of  Travel. 
Champollion,  Lettres  e'crites  d'Egypte  et  de  Nnbie  en  1828  et  1829;  Paris, 

1833;  new  edit.,  1868. 
Curtis.  George  Wm.,  Nile  Notes  of  a  Howadji,  or  The  American  in  Egypt; 

London,  1851. 
Edwards,  Amelia  £.,  A  Thousand  Miles  up  the  Nile ;  London,  ISTT. 
Gordon,  Lady  DiijT,  Letters  from  Egypt;  London,  1865-67;  new  edit.,  1901. 
Qrogan  (E.  S.)  and  Sliaiy  (A.  H.),  From  the  Cape  to  Cairo;  London,  1901. 
Lepsius,   C.  R.,  Lettei-s  from  Egypt,  Ethiopia,  etc. ;  London,  1853. 
Stuart.  H.  Villters,  Egypt  after  the  War;  London,   1883. 
— ,  Nile  Gleanings;  London,  1879. 
Weigall,  A.  E.  P.,  A  Guide  to  the  Antiquities  of  Upper  Egypt ;   London, 

1910;  7s.  6rf. 

Works  or  Fiction. 

About,  E.,  Le  Fellah;  Paris,  1869. 

Arabian  Nights,  by  E.  W.  Lane;  London,  1841.  The  learned  editor  is 
of  opinion  that  these  popular  tales  were  written  in  1474-1525,  being 
based  mainly  on  earlier  traditions,  that  they  were  probably  compiled 
by  an  Egyptian,  and  that  they  afford  an  admirable  picture  of  Arabian, 
and  particularly  of  Egyptian,  life  at  that  period. 

Ebers,  O.,  Series  of  novels  on  Egyptian  subjects  (Engl,  transl.). 

Kinysley,  C,  Hypatia;  London,  1863;  various  new  editions. 

Miller,  Elizabeth,  The  Yoke ;  New  York,  1904. 

Moore,  T.,  The  Epicurean;  London,  1864. 

Twain,  Mark,  The  New  Pilgrim's  Progress;  various  editions. 


Antiquities  (Forged),  see  p.  252;  Dam  of  Assuan,  p.  372;  Cairo,  p.  46; 
Cairo  Museum,  p.  80;  Eastern  Desert,  p.  312;  Faiyiim,  p.  191;  Goshen, 
p.  180;  Helwan,  p.  168;  Islamic  Law  and  the  Koran,  pp.  Ixxxviii,  Ixxxix; 
Oa-ii^  of"Kurkur,  p.  362;  Meroe,  p.  422;  Western  Oases,  pp.  379,  331,  382; 
City  of  St.  Menas,  p.  28;  Sakkara,  p.  142;  Egyptian  Songs,  p.  xxvii;  Sudan, 
p.  418. 

Uaps. 

The  best  special  map  of  Egypt  is  the  topographical  map  issued  by 
the  Survey  Department  (p.  80)  on  a  scale  of  1:50,000  (in  four  colours;  5  pias. 
per  sheet),  with  names  in  English  and  Arabic.  It  comprises  the  entire 
cultivated  area  of  the  country.  The  excellent  maps  by  Prof.  Schweinfurth 
are  mentioned  on  pp.  168,  263,  372.  —  For  the  Sudan  the  best  maps  are 
those  issued  by  the  Sudan  Survey  Department  (p  429)  in  sheets  at  10  pias. 
each  (1 :  250,000)  and  the  map  of  Africa  fl :  1,000,000;  25  pias.  per  sheet) 
published  by  the  British  War  Office. 


1.  Approaches  to  Egypt. 


The  time-tables  and  liandhooks  of  the  various  steamship  companies 
(see  below)  give  full  information  both  as  to  the  direct  sea-routes  from 
Knijland  and  as  to  the  steamers  from  Mediterranean  ports  (comp.  also 
/Saedeker^s  Med  terrnnean).  Overland  routes  from  England  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean, see  p.  3.  The  prineipal  steam'^hip  companies  do  nnt  issue  return- 
tickets  to  Ezypt.  hut  a  reduction  of  20-33V3  per  cent  is  allowed  on  the 
return -journey  if  made  within  6  or  12  months.  Heavy  baggage  should  in 
all  cases,  if  possible,  be  sent  round  by  steamer.  —  Travellers  from  America 
may  sail  direct  from  New  York,  Boston,  Philade'phia,  or  Montreal  to  Mar- 
seilles, Naples,  Genoa,  or  Trieste  and  proceed  thence  by  one  of  the  steamers 
mentioned  at  pp.  3-G.  —  For  occasional  steamers  and  pleasure-cruises  from 
Kngland  or  Amerira,  including  a  visit  to  Egypt,  see  advertisements  or 
apply  to  the  tourist-agencies. 

Travellers  who  desire  to  return  from  Egypt  by  one  of  the  larger  mail 
lines  sliould  secure  a  berth  as  soon  as  possible  by  applying  to  the  ship- 
ping offices  in  Cairo  (p.  38),  as  these  steamers  are  apt  to  be  crowded 
from  February  to  April  inclusive.  Information  as  to  available  accom- 
modation is  telegraphed  from  Aden  to  Cairo.  The  days  and  hours  given 
below  for  the  arrival  and  sailing  of  the  steamers  are  approximate  only, 
except  in  the  case  of  the  terminal  ports.  At  intermediate  ports  the  steamers 
.are  sometimes  behind  itinerary  time,  and  not  unfrequently  a  day  or  two 
in  advance.     In  either  case  they  proceed  at  once  on  their  voyage. 

Alexandria,  the  chief  seaport  of  Egypt,  is  regularly  visited  by  British, 
German,  French,  Austrian,  Italian,  Russian,  Greek,  and  Egyptian  steamers. 
Port  Ha'id  and  Ismd'iltyeh,  on  the  Suez  Canal,  are  touched  at  by  the  vessels 
of  the  great  Australian.  Asiatic,  and  E.  African  lines.  —  Cairo  is  reached  by 
rail  from  Ale.xandria  or  Isma'iliyeh  in  3-3V2hrs.,  from  Port  Sa'id  in  i-i'/ilirs., 
and  through-tickets  are  issued  by  some  of  the  steamship  companies. 

Alexandria  is  almost  30°  l*:.  of  Greenwich,  and  its  time  is  1  hr.  59  min. 
in  advance  of  Greenwich  time;  that  of  Cairo  is  2  hrs.  5  min.  and  that 
of  Port  Sa'id  2  hrs.  10  min.  in  advance  of  Greenwich.  'Central  Europe'' 
time  is  1  hr.  in  advance  of  Greenwich. 


a.  Steamship  Lines  from  England  direct. 
The  fares  given  below  are  in  many  cases  subject  to  a  surtax  of  10  per  cent. 

1.  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Co.  (offices,  122  Leadenball  St., 
Is.C,  and  Northumberland  Ave.,  S.W.}.  Mail-steamer  from  London 
(Tilbury  Dock)  every  Frid.,  and  intermediate  steamer  (from  Royal 
Albert  Dock)  every  Sat.,  to  Port  Sa'id  in  11  days,  via  Gibraltar  and 
Marseilles  or  via  Malta;  fares,  1st.  cl.  19i.  or  17Z.,  2nd  cl.  iSl.  or 
iil.  —  From  Marsdlles  (Estrine  &  Co.,  Rue  Colbert  18)  every  Frid. 
at  10  a.m.  arriving  at  Port  Sa'id  about  1  p.m.  on  the  following  Tues. 
(13;.  or  ill.,  %l.  or80. 

2.  Orient  Line  (28  Cockspur  St.,  S.W.,  and  5  Fenchurcli  Ave., 
K.C.).  From  London  (Tilbury  Dock)  every  alternate  Frid.  to  Port 
Sa'id  in  13  days,  via  Gibraltar,  Totilon,  and  Naples  (19i.,  13i.).  — 
l-'rom  Touion  (Worms  &  Co.,  Quai  Cronstadt)  every  alternate  Thurs. 
(13^,  9;.);  from  Navle:(  (Holme  &  Co.,  Via  Gugliclmo  Sanfelice  24) 
every  alternate  Sat.  (9i.,  7i.). 

3.  North  Gfrman  Lloyd  (Nnrdde.utsoher  Lloyd  :  26  f'ockspur 
St.,  S.W.,  and  2  King  William  St..  E.('.).    From  Southampton  ea. 


2   Route  I.  APPROACHES 

thrice  monthly  to  Port  Sa'td  in  13  days,  via  Genoa  and  Naples. 
Fares  from  London  2il.,  iil.;  from  Genoa  (Fratelli  Leupold,  Piazza 
San  Siro  10)  15?.,  10/.;  from  Naples  (Via  Agostino  Uepretis  49) 
12i.,  8l.  —  From  Marseilles  and  from  Venice  to  Alexandria  by  this 
line,   see  p.  4. 

4.  Shire  Line  (4  Fenchurch  Ave.,  E.G.)  from  London  (Victoria 
Docks)  fortnightly  to  Port  Sa'td  in  14-15  days  (12i.,  iOl.).  —  Brit- 
ish India  Steam  Navigation  Go.  (9  Throgmorton  Ave.,  E.G.,  and 
16  Northumberland  Ave.,  W.C.)  from  London  (Royal  Albert  Dock) 
three  times  monthly  to  Port  Sa'td  in  12  days  (17/.,  11/.  10»'.l.  — 
Union  -  Gastle  Line  (3  Fenchurch  St.,  E.G.)  from  London  (East 
India  Dock)  every  four  weeks  to  Port  Sa'td  (17/.  17s.,  10/.  10s.)  via 
Southampton,  Gibraltar,  Marseilles,  and  Naples,  going  on  to  Suez, 
Port  Sudan,  and  Mombasa  (see  pp.  423,  436). 

5.  From  Liverpool  to  Port  Sa'id:  Bibby  Line  (26  Ghapel  St., 
Liverpool)  every  alternate  Thurs.  in  13  days  via  Marseilles.  Fare 
ill.,  from  Marseilles  (Watson  &  Parker,  Rue  Beauvau  8;  Frid.)  12/. 
—  Joint-service  of  the  Hall  and  Gity  Lines  (22  Water  St.)  every 
7-12  days,  someti  mes  calling  at  Marseilles  or  Naples.  Fares  14/.,  9/. ; 
from  Marseilles  (Watson  &  Parker,  see  above)  lO/.,  6/. ;  from  Naples 
(Aselmeyer  &  Go.,  Piazza  della  Borsa  33)  9/.,  6/.  —  Anchor  Line 
(Royal  Liver  Building,  Water  St.)  about  once  a  fortnight  via  Gibral- 
tar (except  in  Sept.,  Oct.,  &  Nov.);  fares  12-15/.,  return  24-27/.  — 
Anchor  Brocklebank  Line  (20  Bixtcth  St.)  about  every  9  days 
direct  (9-11/.,  return  18-20/.). 

6.  From  Liverpool  to  Alexandria :  Ellerman  &  Papayanni  Line 
(22  Water  St.,  Liverpool)  in  14  days  (12-14/.,  return  22-24/.,  round 
trip  of  about  six  weeks,  with  14  days  in  Alexandria,  26-28/.).  — 
.Moss  Line  (31  James  St.)  fortnightly  via  Gibraltar,  Algiers,  and 
Malta  (14/.).  —  Henderson  Line  (15  St.  Vincent  Place,  Glasgow) 
every  alternate  Thurs.  (leaving  Glasgow  on  the  previous  Sat.)  in 
13  days  (14/.,  return  24/.). 

7.  Prince  Line  (Milburn  House,  Newcastle)  every  10  days  from 
Manchester  and  every  14  days  from  London  to  Alexandria  via  Tunis 
and  Malta  (12/.,  return  22/.). 

8.  From  Southampton  to  Port  Sa'td:  Union-Castle  Line,  see 
above ;  North  German  Lloyd,  see  p.  1 ;  Rotterdam  Lloyd  (3  East 
India  Ave. ,  London,  E.G.)  via  Lisbon,  Tangier,  Gibraltar,  and  (9  days) 
Marseilles  (Ruys  &Co. ,  Boul.  Dugommier  5);  Nbuerland  Co.  (60 
Haymarket,  London,  S.W.)  via  Lisbon,  Tangier,  Algiers,  and(9  days) 
Genoa  (Piazza  Deferrari  36).  Both  lines  start  every  alternate  Tues 
and  take  14  days  (fares  20/.,  13/.).  —  German  East  African  Line 
(Deutsche  Ost-Afrika-Linie)  twice  monthly  from  Southampton 
(Smith,  Sundius,  &  Co.,  1  Canute  Road)  to  Port  Sa'id  via  Lisbon, 
Marseilles  (Wm.Carr,  RueBeauvau  16),  and  Naples  (Kellner & Lampe, 
Piazza  della  Borsa  8) ;  fares  20/.  15s.,  11/.  10«.  (from  Marseilles 
13/.  5s.,  10/.;  from  Naples  12/.,  8/.  15s.). 


TO   EGYPT.  1.  Route.   3 


b.  Steamers  from  Mediterranean  Forts. 

Overland  Routes  from  London  to  Meuitekiianean  Ports.  Brindisi 
may  be  reached  fn)in  Londnn  via  Boulogne  and  Paris  in  47'/2  hrs.  by  or- 
dinary express  (fare  9t.  ils.  lid.  or  61.  9s.  lOd.) ;  or  in  44  hrs.  by  the  'Penin- 
sular Express',  leaving;  London  every  Frid.  at  9  p.m.  (fare,  including 
sleeping-car  ticket,  13/.  18s.  id. ;  tickets  obtainable  only  from  the  'P.  &  0.' 
Co.,  p.  1,  or  the  International  Sleeping  Car  Co.,  20  Cockspur  St.,  S.W.).  — 
Genoa  is  271/2  lirs.  from  London  via  Paris  and  Mont  Cenis  (fares  11.  6s.  lid., 
52.  is.  id.).  —  Venice  is  32  hrs.  from  London  via  Bale  and  the  St.  Gotthard 
(fares  11.  15s.  lid.,  ijl.  Is.  iOd.).  —  Naples  is  45  hrs.  from  London  via  Paris, 
Jtont  Cenis,  and  Rome  (fares  9i.  6s.  bd.,  6/.  6s.  'Ad.).  —  Marseilles  is  reached 
from  London  in  19V2  brs.  by  the  'P.  &  O.  Marseilles  Express'  (every  Thnrs. -, 
fare  9i.  iOs. ;  tickets  from  the  P.  <fe  O.  Co.);  or  in  193/4  hrs.  by  the  'Calais- 
Mediterranean  Express'  (daily  in  winter;  Istcl.  only,  9/.  18s.  6d.  or  9i.  4s.  Id. 
according  to  season;  tickets  from  the  Sleeping  Car  Co.);  or  in  22V2  brs. 
liy  ordinary  express  (fares  62.  Ss.  6d.,  M.  7s.  lid.).  —  Trieste  is  reached  in 
35  hrs.  via  Ostend  (fares  8i.,  ril.  Is.  6d.)  or  in  33  hrs.  by  the  'Simplon  Ex- 
press' (fare  lU.  12s.  8d. ;  tickets  at  20  Cockspur  St.,  London,  see  above), 
in  connection  with  tlie  .\ustrian  Lloyd  steamers  to  Alexandria  (see  p.  5). — 
Constantinople  is  roai'liod  in  72  hrs.  either  via  Paris  and  the  'Orient  Express' 
(4  times  weeklv;  fare  ca.  IS/.)  or  by  the  'Ostend-Vienna  Express'  (fare 
ca.  17/.) 

For  further  details  sec  Bra<hhaw''s  Continental  Uaiiwau  Guide  (2s.  or  3s.  6d.). 

The  chief  lines  of  Steamers  to  Alexandria  are:  — 

1.  From  Brindisi.  Auilnan  Lloyd  (Trieste  boat,  see  p.  5)  every 
Tues.  at  12.30 p.m.  and  every  Sat.  at  1  p.m.,  reaching  Alexandriaon 
Frid.  at  3.30  p.m.  and  on  Men.  at  2p.m.  (fares  from  300  fr.,  from 
20U  fr.);  returning  every  Thurs.  at  3  p.m.  and  every  Sat.  at  2  p.m.; 
reaching  Brindisi  on  Sat.  at  4p.m.  and  on  Wed.  at  5.30  a.m. — 
Societcl  Italiana  di  Servizi  Marittimi  (Venice  fast  steamer,  see  p.  4) 
every  second  Tues.  at  5  p.m.,  reaching  Alexandria  at  7  a.m.  on  Frid. 
(lares  from  275  fr.,  188  fr.);  returning  on  Sat.  at  4  p.m.,  reaching 
I'rindisi  on  'J'ues.  at  6  a.m.  Also  fortniahtly  slow  steamer  starting 
from  Venice,  see  p.  4. 

Brindisi  {Grand-Hotel  Inlcrnntional,  at  the  harbour,  R.  5-lOfr.;  Albergo 
d^ lUiropa.,  Corso  Garibaldi,  5  miu.  from  the  station  and  harbour,  K.  from 
2  fr.,  Albertjo  Cenirale,  same  street,  near  the  harbour),  with  22,000  inhab., 
is  the  Brentesion  or  Brundisium  of  antiquity;  it  has  regained  its  ancient 
importance  as  a  place  of  embarkation  lor  the  Ea^t.  —  Comp.  Baedekm-^s 
Southern  Italy. 

2.  From  Naples.  Socleth  Italiana  di  Servizi  Marittimi  (office, 
Via  Agostino  Depretis)  fast  steamer  every  second  Mon.  at  11  p.m. 
via  Syracuse,  reaching  Alexandria  at  7  a.m.  on  Frid.  (from  300  fr., 
200  fr.);  returning  on  Sat.  at  4  p.m.,  reaching  Naples  on  Wed.  at 
4.30  a.m.  —  Societa  Marittima  Italiana  (Genoa  boat,  see  p.  4)  every 
Frid.  at  5  p.m.,  reaching  Alexandria  on  Wed.  at  5.15  p.m.  (200  fr., 
135  fr.,  without  food):  returning  every  Thurs.  at  7  p.m.,  reaching 
Naples  on  Wed.  at  5.40  a.m.  —  North  German  Lloyd,  see  p.  4. 

Naples  [BtrtoliiiVs  Palace  Hotel,  in  the  Parco  Grifeo,  R.  from  U  fr. ;  H6t. 
Bristol^  Farker's  Bo'el.  Macphtrsons  H61.  Hritanniqve,  Grand  Eden  Hotel,  all  four 
high  up  in  the  Corso  Vittorio  Emanuele,  the  last  two  patronized  by  English 
and  American  travellers,  R.  from  4  or  5  fr.;  H6t.  Excelsior,  R.  from  8  fr., 
Grand-HStei,    R.  from  5'/2  f r.,   both    by  the   sea;   all   these  are  fashionable; 


4    Route  I.  APPROACHES 

Gr.-U6t.  Santa  Lucia;  Or.-HCt.  <l't  Vdtuve;  Gr.-H6l.  Victoria;  Hot.  lioyal  det 
Etrangers;  Or.-Eot.  deLondres;  Hdt.  Hassler;  Savoy  Hotel;  at  these  R.  from 
31/2  4,  5,  or  6fr.),  with  over  60l),000  inhab.,  is  the  most  populous  town 
in  Italy  after  Milan.  The  environs  of  the  town  are  among  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  world.  Travellers  are  recommended  to  take  a  Wi.lk  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Villa  If ationale.  to  drive  along  the  Via  Tasso  and  the  Strada 
A'vova  di  Posilipo ,  and  to  see  the  famous  sculjjtures  and  Pompeian  wall- 
paintiDgs  in  the  Museo  NmionaU.  The  finest  view  is  obtained  from  San 
Martino,  near  the  Casiel  Sam'Elmo  (tramway  and  cahle-railway  20  c).  — 
Com  p.  Baedeker'' s  Southern  Italy. 

3.  From  Venice.  North  German  Lloyd  every  other  Sun.  at  10  a.m., 
reaching  Alexandria  on  Thurs.  at  noon  (from  12^.,  Si.};  returnina; 
every  other  Sat.  and  arriving  on  Wednesday.  —  Sociela  Italiana  di 
Servizi  Marittlmi  (Ponte  Goldoni  44U5),  fast  steamer  every  alternate 
Mon.  at  10  a.m.,  via  Brindisi  (see  p.  3).  reaching  Alexandria  on  Frid. 
at  7  a.m.  (fares  from  330  fr.,  225  fr.):  returning  every  alternate  Sat. 
at  4  p.m.,  reaching  Venice  on  Weil,  at  1.30  p.m.  Also  fortnightly 
steamer  in  T'/o  da)  s  via  Ancona,  Bari,  Brindisi,  Corfii,  and  Candia. 

Venice  (Hot.  Royal  Danieli,  H61.  de  V Europe.  Grand-Hotel,  Gr.-H8t.  Bri- 
tannia., all  four  fashionable,  R.  from  b  or  7fr.;  Gr.-Hot.  d'jtalie- Bauer., 
Grand  Canal  Hotel  et  Monaco.,  HOI.  Regina.,  with  Knglish  and  American  clien- 
tele, Hdt.  de  Milanet  Bristol,  all  lour  on  the  <jrand  Canal,  R.  from  S'/z,  4, 
or  5  fr. ;  Hot.  Beau-Rivage,  Riva  degli  .Si;hiavoni,  R.  from  4  fr.,  English  and 
.\merican  visitors),  with  148  500  inhab.,  was  the  capital  ot  the  powerful  re- 
public iif  the  same  name  until  179?.  The  railway  station  (restaurant)  lies 
at  ttie  N.W.  end  of  tbe  Grand  Canal;  a  gumlola  to  the  Piazzetta,  near 
which  are  most  of  the  hotels,  costs  I'/a  fr.  with  one  rower.  3  fr.  with  two. 
Travellers  are  recommended  to  see  the  Piazza  of  St.  Mark,  the  Campanile 
(•View),  tbe  Church  of  St.  Mark,  and  the  Doge's  Palace,  and  to  sail  along  the 
Grand  Canal.  —  Comp.  Baedeker's  Northern  Italy. 

4.  From  Genoa.  Societa  Marittima  Italiana  (Via  Balbi),  every 
Tues.  at  9  p.m.,  via  Leghorn,  Naples  (see  p.  3),  Messina,  Catania, 
and  Syracuse,  reaching  Alexandria  on  the  eighth  day  (Wed.)  at 
5.15  p.m.  (241  fr.,  I6O72  fr.,  food  extra);  returning  on  Thurs.  at 
7  p.m.,  reaching  Genoa  on  the  eighth  dny  (Frid.)  at  7.10  a.m.  — 
.\orth  German  Lloyd,  see  p.  5. 

Genoa  {Gr.H6t.  Miramare ,  fashionable,  above  the  main  station,  R. 
from  6  fr. ;  Gr.-H6t.  de  Genes,  Piazza  Deferrari,  R.  from  Sir.;  Hoi.-Pens. 
Bristol,  Via  Venti  Settembre  35,  Eden  Palace  Hotel,  below  the  Acquasola 
grounds,  R.  from  6  fr. ;  Gr.-Hot.  Savoy,  close  to  the  main  sta'itn,  Gr.-Hot. 
Isotta,  Via  Roma  5,  II.  frcm  4  or  5  fr. ;  Hot.  de  la  VilU ;  Modern  Hot-^l; 
Hot.-Pens.  Smith,  English;  Hot.  Victoria;  etc.),  with  163,200  inhab.,  is  the 
leading  seaport  of  Italy.  The  Via  Balbi,  Via  Cairoli.  and  Via  Garibaldi  are 
lined  with  palaces  which  visitors  should  not  tail  to  see;  a  splendid  view  is 
obtained  from  the  Castellaccio  (cable-railway  from  the  Piazza  Zecca,  50  c).  — 
Comp.  Baedeker^s  Northern  Italy. 

5.  From  MAESEtbLEs,  Steamers  of  the  Messageries  Maritimes  (Place 
Sadi-Carnot  3)  leave  Marseilles  every  Thurs.  at  noon,  reaching 
Alexandria  on  Mon.  night  (15i.,  lOZ. ;  return  25i.  10s.,  17L);  return- 
ing on  Frid.  at  4  p.m.  Return-tickets,  available  one  way  by  the  Aus- 
trian Lloyd  Trieste -Alexandria  service  (see  p.  5)  and  valid  for 
six  months,  are  issued.  —  North  German  Lloyd  (Wm.  Carr,  Rue 
Beauvau  16)  every  Wed.,  calling  at  Naples  (agent,  see  p.  2)  every 
alternate  Frid.,  and  reaching  Alexandria  on  Sun.  (direct  boats)  or 


TO  EGYPT.  /.  Route.   O 

Mou.  (from  ibt.,  lOi. ;  I'roiu  Naples  from  12^,  8i. J.  Passengers  luay 
join  the  New  York  steamer  of  the  company  at  Genoa  (fares  as  from 
Marseilles)  and  change  at  Naples.  In  returning  the  boat  leaves  Alex- 
andria on  Wed,,  reaching  Naples  on  Sat.  and  Marseilles  on  Sun.  or 
Monday. 

Marseilles  {Gr.-Edt.  du  Louvre  et  de  la  Pair,  Gr.-Hot.  Noaillu  el  MHro- 
poh,  Oruud-Hotd,  Rue  de  Koailles,  liegitia  HOtel,  Place  Sadi-Carnot,  Ildtel 
Bristol,  Rue  C'annebicre,  all  of  the  first,  class,  R.  trom  4,  4'/'j,  or  5  fr. ;  Gr.- 
HCit.  Beaurav :  Gr.-Bdt.  de  Geneve;  U6l.  du  Petit  -  Louvre ;  HOt.  de  Riusie  et 
d'AngUiarre,  Terinimts - B6iel ,  near  the  St.  Charles  station;  etc.),  with  ca. 
560,6lO  inhab.,  is  the  largest  town  but  one  and  the  most  important  seaport 
in  France.  The  street  called  Ln  Cannthih'e,  beginning  at  the  inner  harbour 
or  Vievx  Pnrt,  has  long  been  the  pride  of  the  town.  The  best  survey  of 
tLe  town  and  iis  environs  is  obtained  from  the  church  oi  Notra-Dnme  de  la 
Garde,  to  the  8.  of  the  Vieu.K  Port  (cable  railway  there  and  back  8U  c).  — 
Comp.    JSaedekcr''s  Southern  France. 

6.  From  Tkieste.  Audrian  Lloyd  every  Frid.  at  1  p.m.,  touch- 
ing at  Brindisi  (see  p.  3;  arriving  at  11  a.m.  on  Sat.)  ;ind  reaching 
Alexandria  on  Men.  at  2  p.m.  (from  360  fr.,  from  250  fr.);  returning 
on  Thurs.  at  3  p.m.,  reaching  Trieste  on  ,Sun.  at  4  p.m.  Also  every 
Sun.  (Port  Sa'id  boat,  see  p.  6). 

Trieste  (K.r<-ehior  Pidnce  Hotel,  K.  from  4,  with  bath  from  12  A';  Hot.  de 
la  Ville,  K.  S-dK;  H61.  Volpich  aW Aquila  Nei-a,  with  cafe-restaurant,  R.  H- 
.5  K;  all  near  the  Molo  San  (Jarlu),  witli  230.0L'U  inhab..  is  the  chief  seaport 
of  Austria.  The  South  Railway  5tatiou  (Stazioue  Meridionale ;  restauraut) 
lies  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  to  the  E.  of  the  Poiio  Nuovo,  v\here  the  Lloyd 
steamers  lie  to;  the  State  Railway  Station  (Stazione  dello  Stato)  is  on  the 
S.  side  (cab  1  A' 6l)  A,  at  night  2  A).  Pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  to 
the  chateau  of  Miranar  ('/^  day),  and  to  Opcina  (2  hrs. ;  electric  mountain- 
railway).  —  Comp.  liaedeker^s  An  stria- Hvngary. 

7.  From  Constantinople.  Khedivial  Mail  Line  every  Tues.  at 
3p.m.,  calling  at  the  Piracu j  (Athens)  on  Thurs.  (arriving  10  a.m., 
departing  4p.m. ),  and  reaching  Alexandria  on  Sat.  at  8  a.m.  (£  E  8, 
£  E  5 ;  from  the  Pirceus  £  E  5,  £  E  3,  25  pias.) ;  returning  at  4  p.m. 
on  Wed.,  reaching  the  Pirseus  on  Frid.  (10  a.m.)  and  Constantinople 
on  Sun.  at  4  p.m.  —  liussianS.S.  Co.  every  San.  at  2  p.m.,  touching 
at  the  Pirjeus  at  noon  on  Tues.,  and  reaching  Alexandria  on  Thurs. 
at  2  p.m.  (200  fr.,  140  fr.);  returning  on  Tues.  at  4  p.m.  —  The 
Eoumanian  Express  Steamers  (Serviciul  Maritim  Roman),  plying 
weekly  from  Constanza  ( Kustendji)  to  (12  hrs.)  Constantinople  and  the 
Pirffius,  go  on  to  Alexandria  (fares  from  Constantinople  210-315  fr., 
130  fr.).  Constanza  is  reached  from  Budapest  via  Bucharest  in  one 
day  by  the  Ostend  Oriental  Express  (three  times  ■weekly),  which 
goes  on  to  Constantinople  also. 

Constantinople  {Pern  Palace  Hotel,  on  the  public  park  of  the  Petits- 
Champs,  H6t.  Jokatlian,  opposite  the  Galata  Serai,  R.  from  B'/efr. ;  H6t. 
Bristol,  H6t.  de  Londres,  Hut.  Bei  liner  Hof,  H6t.  Continental,  all  four  on  the 
public  park  of  the  Pel  its  Chamois,  I!.  Irom  4,  4'/4,  or  5  Ir. ;  E6t.  Kroecker, 
Rue  Kabristan,  a  liltle  I  clow  tbe  public  park,  R.  from  4fr. ;  Khedivial  Palace 
Hotel,  Grande  Rue  de  Pera,  R.  4-7  fr.,  H8t.  Grande  Bretagne,  Rue  Venedik, 
R.  3  5fr,,  Hot.  St.  Pileribowg,  on  the  park  t)f  the  Pctits-Champs,  with 
R.  only,  these  three  of  the  second  ilass;  all  the  hotels  are  in  the  Pera 
quarter,  '/2  hr.  from  the  station,  cab  4',2fr.  incl.  liridge-toll,  and  20min. 
from  the  landiug-.stsge,   cab  2'/i  fr  ),    ihe  capital    of  Turkey  (ca.  1  n)illion 


6  Rnute  I.  APPROACHES  TO  EGYPT. 

inli.-vh),  consists  (if  tbe  port  of  Galata  and  the  European  suburb  of  Pera 
ou  lUe  E.  of  the  Golden  Horn  and  Stamboul  on  the  W. ;  it  includes  also 
Scutari  on  the  Asiatic  coast.  Passing  visitors  should  ascend  the  Galata  Tower ^ 
drive  to  Stamboul  over  the  New  Bridge  and  visit  the  Hagia  Sophia  Mosque 
and  the  Museum,  walk  through  the  Grand  Bazaar  with  a  dragoman,  and 
make  a  steamboat  trip  on  the  Bosphorus.  —  Comii.  Baedeker^ s  Mediterranean. 

Akkital  at  Alexandria,  f^ec  p.  9. 

The  chief  lines  of  Steamers  to  Port  Said  are  the  following:  — 

1.  From  Brindisi.  Express-steamers  of  the  'P.  >.S'  O.'  Co.  (first 
oahin  only,  9i.l  every  Sun.  night  in  connection  with  the  Brindisi 
P^xpress  (p.  3),  reaching  Port  Sa'id  early  on  Wed.  morning.  — 
Austrian  Lloyd,  see  helow,  No.  5. 

2.  From  Naplks.  Orient,  North  German  Lloyd,  Union- Castle, 
German  East  African  Line,  and  Hall  i^-  Citi/  Lines,  see  pp.  1,2.  — 
Societa  Maritlimd  Italiana,  Genoa  bo.its  (s(m-  below)  in  8^/4  davs 
(221  fr.,  148  fr.,  food  extra). 

3.  From  Genoa.  North  German  Lloyd  and  Nederland  Lines,  see 
pp.1,  2.  —  Societa  Maritlimn  Italiana  (office,  see  p.  4)  twice  monthly 
(Bombay  and  Mombasa  lines  alternately;  267  fr.,  176V2  fr.,  food 
extra)  via  Leghorn,  Naples,  Messina,  and  Catania,  in  5^2  days. 

4.  P'rom  Marseilles.  P.^'O.,  BrUish  India,  Union- Castle,  Bibby, 
Hall  if  City,  Rotterdam  Lloyd,  and  German  East  African  linos,  see 
pp.  1,  2.  —  Messageries  Marillmes  to  Port  Sa'id  direct  five  times 
monthly  (IbL,  iOl.). 

5.  From  Trieste.  Austrian  Lloyd  every  Sun.  at  1  p.m.  to  Brin- 
disi (leaving  every  Tues.  at  12.30  p.m.),  Alexandria,  and  Port  Sa'id. 
arriving  on  Tues.  (Wed.  in  Nov.  &  Dec.)  at  7  p.m. 

Arrival  at  Port  Sa'id,  see  p.  177. 


LOWER  EGYPT. 


loute  Page 

2.  Alexandria 9 

1/ History  and  Topography  of  Anrient  Alexandria   .    .      12 

2.  Modern  Alexandria 15 

3. 'Environs  of  Alexandria  (Ramleh,  Meks) 24 

4.  Mareotis  District  (^City  of  St.  Menas,  Abnsir)  ...     27 

5.  Excursion  to  Abukir  and  llosetta 30 

3.  From  Alexandria  to  Cairo 31 

4.  Cairo 35 

Preliminary  Information. 

a.  IJailway  Stations.     Hotels  and  Pension.'!.     Restaurants 

and  Cafes 35 

b.  Consuls.     Police.     Banks.     Post  &  Telegrapli  Offices. 
Tourist  Agents.    Steamboat  Offices 37 

c.  Tramways.  Electricliailway.  Steamers.  Cabs.  Donkeys. 
Dragomans .'^8 

d.  Physicians.  Chemists.  Hospitals.    Baths.    Hairdressers       -iO 

e.  Shops 40 

f.  Theatres.    Clubs.    Churches.    Schools 41 

;;.    Sights  and  Disposition  of  Time 43 

History  of  the  City 44 

Street  Scenes 46 

I'azaars 50 

1.  The  Ezbekiyeh  and  the  New  Quarters 51 

2.  The  Muski  and  its  Side  Streets  (Gami'  Seiyidna 
'1-Hosein,  Gami'  el-x\zhar,  Ganii'  el-Muaiyad,  Gami' 
el-Mardani) 53 

3.  The  South-Eastern  Quarters :  Shari'  Mohammed  Ali ; 
Arabian  Museum ;  Khedivial  Library;  Mosque  of 
Sultan  Hasan j  Citadel  and  Mosque  of  Mohammed 
Ali;  Mosque  of  Ibn  Tulun 02 

4.  The  Northern  Quarters:  Sflk  es-vSaigh;  Muristan 
Kalaiin;  Tomb  of  En-Nasir;  Barkukiych;  Bab  el- 
Futijh  and  Bab  en-Nasr 74 

5.  Bulak,  Gezireh,  and  the  Gizeh  Suburb 78 

0.  The  Egyptian  Museum 80 

A.  The  Ground  Floor  with  the  Larger  Stone  Monu- 
ments      81 

Monuments  of  the  Ancient  Empire 82 

Monuments  of  the  Middle  Empire  and  of  the  Hvksos 

Period .'...'..       54 

Monuments  of  the  New  Empire 84 

Monuments  of  the  Foreign  Dvnastie-i  and  the  Laler 

Period " 87 

Monuments  of  the  GrsECO-Rom;in  and  Coptic  Periods       88 


Kaedekuk  s  Ksrvot.     7th   Kdit  i 


LOWER   RGTPT. 


Route  Page 

B.  The  Upper  Floor,   witli  tlie  Smaller  Antiquities 

and  the  Mammies 90 

Natural  History  Collection 90 

Royal  Mummies 93 

Jewelry 97 

Manuscripts,  Papyri,  etc 101 

5.  Environs  of  Cairo 104 

1.  The  Island  of  lirula  ;iiul  01(1  Cairo 104 

2.  The  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  and  the  Mamelnkes   .    .111 

3.  Tlie  Mokattam  Hills 116 

4.  Spring  of  Moses  and  tlie  Petrified  Forest    .    .    .    .117 

5.  New  Heliopolis  (Heliopolis  Oasis) 119 

6.  Old  Ueliopolis 119 

7.  Barrage  du  Nil 121 

6.  The  Pyramids  of  Oizeh 123 

History  and  Construction  of  the  Pyramids  ....  124 
The  Three  Great  Pyramids,  tlie  Sphinx,  and  tlie 

Valley  Temple  of  Khephren 127 

Circuit  of  the  Pyramid  Plateau 1B7 

The  Pyramids  of  Abu  Roash  and  Abusir     ....  139 

7.  The  Site  of  Ancient  Memphis  and  the  Necropolis  of 
Sakkara 142 

Colossal  Statues  of  Ramses  II 144 

Convent  of  St.  Jeremiah 146 

Step  Pyramid  of  Sakkara 146 

Serapeum 147 

The  Mastabas  of  Ti,  ofMereruka,  and  ofKe-gem-ni  149 

The  Street  of  Tombs.    Mastaba  of  Ptahhotep  .  162,  163 

Pyramid  of  King  Onnos 165 

Pyramids  of  Dah.ihur 166 

8.  Baths  of  Hehvan 167 

9.  From  Cairo  to  Mansi'ira  via  Belbeis  and  Zakazik  .    .    .  170 

10.  From  Tanta  to  Damietta  via  Mansilra 174 

11.  From  Port  Sa'id  to  Cairo  or  Suez  via  Ismii'iliy eh  .    .    .  177 

12.  The  Suez  Canal  from  Port  Sa'id  to  Suez 181 

13.  Suez  and  its  Environs 187 

14.  The  Faiyiim 190 


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PORT       ACTLE 


urrr;^  tctim^^^StatiVTn  -I'lace  ircHtSmertTli: 


2.  Alexandria. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  Most  of  the  steamers  beith  at  the  wharf  of  the  luner 
Harhour  (if  not,  cinbarkation  or  disembarkation  cosis  2,  at  night  3  pias., 
each  trunk  t  pias.)-  As  soon  as  the  brief  sanitary  inspectiun  is  over  the 
traveller  should  have  his  luggage  conveyed  to  the  hotel  or  station  (20- 
25  pias.,  everything  included)  by  the  Arab  hotel -servants  or  by  one  of 
Cook^s  or  the  Uamhnrg-Ainerican  Line's  agents.  These  are  recognizable  by 
heir  oflicial  caps  or  1)y  the  brass  plates  on  their  breasts.  Those  who  em- 
ploy unauthorized  person.*  will  certainly  be  cheated.  Trouble  is  saved  by 
securin;,'  a  landing  ticket  (1  pers.  ca.  5,  2  pers.  9  fr.,  etc.)  and  a  railway- 
ticket  to  Cairo  (1st  cl.  '22  fr.  70,  2ad  cl.  11  tr.  35  c.)  when  purchasing  oue\s 
steamer-berth;  through-carriages  are  run  from  the  harbour  during  the  sea- 
son in  connection  with  the  principal  steamship -lines.  The  custom-house 
examination  (eomp.  p.  xv)  is  usually  made  easy  for  tourists. 

Railway  Station.  Gare  cln  Caiie  or  Garc  Bab  el-Gvedid  (VI.  G,  5 ;  bufl'et). 
A  new  large  station  building  is  leing  erected. 

Hotels  (comi>.  p.  xviii).  '.S.wor  Palace  IIotei,  IPI.  n;  U,  4),  Rue  de 
la  Porte  de  Rosette  35,  with  a  bar,  R.  30-QO,  B.  10,  dij.'';0,  D.  30,  pens. 
70100  pias.  —  Grand  Hotel,  formerly  Hot.  Aubat  tPl.  h;  F,  i) ,  Square 
Ste.  Catherine,  U.  23-50,  B.  6,  dej.  oi"  1).  20,  pens,  from  GO  pias.;  Excel- 
sior Hotel  (PI.  a;  H.  4),  I'ue  de  )a  Porte  de  Rosette  21,  with  a  bar,  i;. 
from  30,  1!.'  10,  di'j.  16,  D.  20,  pens,  from  60  uias. ;  JIetkopole  Hotel  (PI.  k  • 
F,  G,  3),  Rue  Averoff,  near  the  E.  harbonr,  R.  20-20,  B.  5,  d^j.  16,  D.  20', 
pens.  4u60pias. ;  Windsor  Hotel  (PI.  d;  (J,  3l,  Rue  Averolf7,  with  bar' 
li.  20-28,  15.  5,  <\lj.  15,  D.  20,  pens.  50-60  pias.;  Hotel  des  Votagedrs 
(PI.  f;  F,  4),  Rue  do  I'Kglise  Eeossaise  4,  in  course  of  reconstruction; 
Hotel  Bu.N.v.'iRD  iPl.  c;  F,  3),  Rue  Champollion  7,  R.  10-20,  de'j.  or  D.  10 
tincl.  wine),  peis.  40-17  pias.;  Hotel  du  Nil  (PI.  Ii ;  F,  3),  Rue  de  I'An- 
cienne  Bourse  11,  R.  1214,  B.  4-5,  dej.  or  I).  10,  pons.  35-40  pias. ;  Hotel 
Canal  i>e  Suez  iPI.  i;  inset  F,  3,  4),  Kue  de  I'Ancienue  Bourse  9.  — Hotel 
Continental  (PI.  c;  F,  4),  Rue  de  France  2,  a  hotcl-garni  with  restaurant; 
Pension  lonio  (Italian),  I!uc  Adili,  opposite  the  Deutsche  (Irientbank  (PI. 
F,  4),  per  nil  nih  X  E  6-S,  and  Boul.  de  Bamleh  35,  pens.  £  E  9. 

Cafes  (.Vi-aliian  colfee  ■/-•  1  l>ias.  per  cup),  in  the  PlaceMehemet  Ali  ( PI.  F,  4) 
and  elsewhere.  —  Restaurants.  JUsloranle  Fireme,  Kuc  de  la  Pnste  14  (PI. 
F,  3,  4);  r,esi(mrant  Vniversel,  Rue  de  PAncienne  Bourse  9  (PI.  F,  4);  Stella 
d' Italia,  Rue  Tou'^soun  Pacha  7.  —  Beer.  Germauiit,  Schmidt,  Rue  de  TAn- 
lienne  Bourse  5  and  7;  Serreli,  I!ue  de  I'Eglise  Eeossaise  2  (PI.  F,  3,  4). 
—  Bars.  Old  Bourse  Bar,  elegantly  fitted  up,  Spathis,  Rue  de  rAncienne 
Bourse  3  and  6;  Castelli,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  1.  —  I'appci,  Rue  Che'rif  Pacha  21 
(preserved  meats,  etc.).  —  Confectioners.  Conjiserie  Albengo,  Kue  Che'rif 
Pacha  17;  Pdlisserie  Khkliviale  (J.  Athineos),  Rue  Nebi  Daniel  25,  corner  oi 
the  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette;  Saiilt,  Kuc  Cherif  Pacha  26. 

Baths  at  the  hotels  (see  above).  —  Sea  Baths  at  Shatbi  (p.  25),  in  the 
Bay  of  Ant'ushi  (p.  19),  at  San  Stefano  near  Ramleh  (p.  26),  and  at  Meks 
(p.  26). 

Clubs.  Cercle  K/u'divial,  on  the  first  floor  of  the  Exchange  (P).  F,  4), 
handsomely  fitted  up,  patronized  by  Europeans  of  all  nations;  introduction 
by  a  inemlicr  neces.-avy ;  after  a  week  visitors  must  purchase  a  ticket  of 
admission.  —  Cercle  Mohammed  Ali,  Rue  de  la  Portu  de  Rosette  2,  similar.  — 
SporliiKj  Club,  near  Kainleh,  see  p.  25.  —  i'nion  Club,  Rue  ds  PAncienne 
Bourse  6.  —  Brilish  Club,  Rue  do  la  Gare  de  Ramleh  15.  Numerous  news- 
papers at  Ihe^e,  anrl  also  in  the  reading  room  of  the  Exchange. 

Electric  Tramways,  focussing  in  the  Place  .■»leli.met  Ali  (PI.  F,  4l. 
Fares,  1st  class  10  mill.,  2nd  clas.s  5  mill.  —  1.  Hand  Point  (PI.  K,  3) -Rue. 
d'Allemaguo- Place  M.*hemet  Ali-Rue  des  Sueurs -  r/a66«)-i  (PI.  C,  1),  8; 
p.2G).  —  2.  Clmmps   r/i/s.'ff  (l'\.  I.,  5)    U;iilvvay  Station  -  Place   Mchemet  Ali- 


10     Route  2.  ALEXANDRIA.  Practical  Notes. 

Cuilom  House  (Dniiaiie;  PI.  D,  5).  —  3.  riailwaij  Slatioii-Rac  du  Premier 
Khedive  (PI.  EG,  5,  6)  -  Rue  de  la  Marine -fids  et-Tin  (PL  B  C,  3),  aud  on 
to  the  Bav  of  AnfUihi  (PI.  (J,  1,  2;  p.  19j.  —  4.  ^n/(?«At-alonf;  the  quay-Place 
Mehemel  .Ali-Rue  .A)io\i  Dardaa  (PI.  F,  4,  5) -Rue  de  la  Cnlonne  PompiSp. 
(Pompev's  Pillar,  p.  \S\)-Karnums  (Kom  esh-Shukala,  p.  17).  —  5.  Ilnnd  Point 
(PI.  K,  '6)-Kuzlia  Oarden  (p.  20).  —  6.  Place  Mihiiiia  ^Zi-Rue  Tewfik  Premier- 
Rue  Masguid  el-  Attarine-7.'«e  Ragheb  Pacha  (PI.  G,  H,  6,  7).  —  7  (circular 
line),  champs  Elysees  (PI.  1.,  5)- Rue  MobaTreiu  Bey -Rue  Ni'bi  l>aniel 
(PI.  G,  5,  4)-Ruc  MissalUi-Jfew  (J.uay.s  (PI.  G,  F,  3)-PIa"ce  Me'hcmet  Ali-Rue 
Tewfik  Premier -Rail  way  Station  -  ('/saw^,'!  Elysfes.  —  To  Mels  and  Pamleh, 
.seeipp.  26,  24. 

Cabs  (comp.  p.  xviii).  Wii/iin  the  town:  one-borse  cab  per  drive  not 
exceeding  lOmin.  2  iiia.s.,  twn-horse  3  pias. ;  per  20  min.  2^/i  and  4  pias. ; 
per  1/2  hr.  3  and  5  pias. ;  per  hour  6  and  9  pia.s.,  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  l'/2  and 
2Hpias.;  from  tlie  steauier  to  the  Gare  du  Caire  or  vice  vc.rsd  3  and  .5  pias. 
To^tbe  suburbs,  comji.  the  tarifl' inside  each  cab.  A  liaruain  should  always 
lie  made  beforehand,  especially  for  longer  drives,  with  the  assistance  of 
the  hotel-porter  or  of  a  commissionnaire.  —  Taximeter  Motok  Cabs  may 
be  found   in  tlie  Place  M61n'met  Ali. 

Commissionnaires  (procured  through  the  hotels)  charge  20-30  pias.  per 
day,  but  may  lie  hired  for  temporary  purposes  for  4-5  pias.  Offers  to  escort 
the  traveller  to  Cairo,  and  even  np  the  Nile,  should  be  disregarded,  as  the 
only  suitable   dragomans  are  to  be  found  at  Cairo  (comp.  pp.  xxv,  39). 

Post  Office  iPl.  F,  3;  p.  xixl,  open  7-12  &  2-9.30.  France  has  a  post- 
office  of  its  own  (Rue  de  la  Gare  de  Ramleh  1).  —  Telegraph  Offices. 
Egyptian,  Kue  Tewfik  Premier,  at  the  Exchange  (PI.  F,  4);  English  (PI.  F,  4), 
Rue  du  Teli'graphe  Anglais  5. 

Consulates.  Bitrn.*ii  (PI.  6;  H,  3),  Rue  de  THopital  Egyptien  :  consul- 
general,  D.  A.  Cameron,  C.M.G.;  vice-consul,  A.  B.  Geary.  —  Amekican,  Rue 
Adib  1  (PI.  F,  4) :  consul,  A.  Garrets.  There  are  also  Danish,  Dutch,  French. 
German, ^Norwegian,  Swedish,  and  other  consular  representatives. 

Tourist  Agents.  Tlios.  Cook  <f-  .5o»,  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette  '}. 
f  PI.  G,.H,  4);  ffnmburg-American  Line,  Square  Ste.  Catherine  (PI.  F,  4);  F.  T. 
Foiiades  &  Co.,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  27  (PI.  G,  4). 

Steamboat  Offices.  Peninsular  it  Oriental  Co.,  Rue  Cl(5opatre4  (Haselden 
&  Co.;  'Box  153);  Mrssageries  Marilimes,  Place  M^hemet  Ali  3  ( Ricard) ; 
Austrian  Lloi/d,  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette  1  (H.  de  Pitner);  Societii  Marittima 
Ilaliana,  Rue  Tewfik  Premier  2  (L.  Bonenfaut);  Sociela  Italiann  di'iServizi 
Marittinii,  Rue  Sc'sostris  11  (A.  Capua);  North  Gorman  Lloyd  and  Poumanian 
Line,  Rue  .Sosostris  16  (Miiller  &  Co.);  Compagnie  Russe,  Rue  St.  Marc  1; 
German  Levant  Line,  Rue  Toussoun  Pacha  i  (Stross);  Khedivial  Mail  Steam- 
hip  Co.,  Rue  Centrale;  White  Star  Line,  Rue  de  la  Jlarine  (Ross  it  Co.).  — 
Lloyd's  Agent,  Francis  H.  Manley,  Rue  Cleopatre  3. 

Banks  (usually  open  9-12  &  3-5).  Banque  Imph'iale  OUomane ,  Place 
Mehemet  Ali  5  (PI.  F,  4);  National  Bank  of  Egypt,  Rue  Toussoun  Pacha  4 
(PI.  G,  4);  Anglo-Egyptian  Bank,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  7  (PI.  F,  G,  4);  Cridil 
lyonnais,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  4;  Banque  (PAthines,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  25; 
Dei/tsche  Orientbank  (PI.  F,  4),  Rue  Adib  4. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Ekins,  Dr.  MacLeod,  Dr.  Morrison,  Dr.  Wehh-.Tones,  and 
others,  English;  Dr.  Gatzky  (sxirgeon;  see  below).  Dr.  Kanzki ,  German; 
])r.  Kartulis,  Greek.  —  Dentists.  Dr.  Curtis,  Dr.  Leuty  (Americans);  Dr. 
Kdlhe  Lederer  (German).  ~  Oculist,  Dr.  Osborne,  Austrian.  —  All  the  ad- 
dresses  may  be  obtained  at  the  chemists'  (see  below). 

Chemists.  Hiiber  (Greek  owner),  Kue  Cherif  Pacha  .35;  Rnelberg,  Rue 
de  TAncienne  Bourse  1;  Del  Mar,  Rue  Tewfik  Premier  2. 

Hospitals.  European  Hospital  (PI.  F,  4,  5;  large),  Rue  Sidi  el-Met- 
walli;  Government  Hospitnl  (PI.  H,  3),  with  a  foundling  asylum,  an  ad- 
mirable institution,  with  modern  appliances;  German  Deaconesses'  Hospital 
(PI.  L,  3,  4),  at  Hadra  (p.  20),  an  excellent  establishment,  managed  by 
Dr.  Gatzky;  Austria  -  Hungarian  Hospital,  Jewish  Hospital,  both  in  the  Rue 
Jloharrem  Bey;   Greek  Hospital  (Pi.    G,  4),  Rue  de  THopital  Grec. 


HarhoiLr.  ALEXANDlllA.  -J.  Roulc.      11 

Booksellers.  L.  Scliuler,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  6  (phologMplis  also).  — 
Photographs.  Beifi'.r  .(■  Binder.  Rue  de  I'Ancienne  Bourse  6  (also  art- 
dealers);  Lassavt',  Riif  dc  rEglist' l)olpbaii(<  7;  Fettel  ti- Bernard,  Kue  Tous 
soun  Pacha  1.  —  Photographic  Materials.  Egypt  Kodak,  Rue  Chdri 
Pacha  30;  Del  Mar,  Hue  Tewfik  Premier  2.  —  Music.  Hugo  Hackh,  Rue 
Cherif  Pacha  18.  —  English  Newsi'apek:  Egyptian  Gazette  (daily). 

Shops  for  all  kinds  of  European  articles  are  to  be  fiiuiid  in  the  Rue 
Cherif  Pacha  (Davies,  Bryan,  i  Co.)  aud  the  Place  Meht5niet  Ali.  —  Ready- 
made  clothing  :  Mayer  <k  Co.,  Slein,  Goldemberg,  Place  MObeinet  Ali.  — 
Reproductions  of  ancient  Egyptian  ornaments  :  Stobbe,  Rue  Cherif  Pacha  29. 
—  Carpets,  silks,  etc.  at  Tatca^s,  Rue  Cbdrif  Pacha  13.  —  Cigars  and  cigar- 
ettes at  H.  iS;  C.  Flick's,  Hue  de  TAncienne  Bourse  1. 

Theatres.  Auoro  Teatro  Alfiambra  (PI.  0,  3),  corner  of  Rue  Missalla 
and  Eue  de  I'Hopital  Egyptien  ;  Jardin  Eosette,  Rue  de  la  Porte  de  Rosette 
(t'l.  H,  4). 

Churches.  Anolicax:  St.  Market  ('Egl.  anglicane';  PI.  F,  4),  Place 
Mehemet  Ali;  chaplain,  Ven.  Archdeacon  Ward,  M.A.  (Archdeacon  in  Egypt 
and  Bishop's- Commissary);  service  on  .Sundays  at  8,  11,  &  6.15  o'clock. 
All  Saints\  at  Bulkeley,  see  p.  26.  —  Roman  Catholic  :  St.  Catherine's  Cathe- 
dral (PI.  F,  ll  and  Lazarist  Church  (PI.  F,  4).  —  Peesbytekian  :  St.  Andrew's 
(PI.  1;  F,  8,4),  Rue  de  TEgliseEcossaise  ;  chaplain  Bfv.  6.  M.  Mackie,  D.  D; 
service  at  10.30  a.m.  —  American  Mission  Church  ('Egl.  americ.';  PI.  01,  4),  Rue 
Sidi  el-Metwalli,  near  Karakol  "^Attarin ;  jiastor,  Dr.  Finney.  —  Protestant 
Church  (PI.  F,  3).  Rue  de  la  Poste;  German  or  French  service  at  9.45  a.m.  — 
Several  Greek  Churches,  Si/iiagogues,  etc. 

Disposition  of  Time.  1st  Day.  In  the  morning  walk  through  the 
inner  town,  by  the  Hue  Itosette,  Rue  Chirif  Pacha,  and  Place  Miliimet  Ali; 
go  by  tramway  or  cab  to  Pompey's  Pillar  (p.  16)  and  the  Catacombs  of 
K8m  esh-Shnkdfa  (p.  17).  The  return  should  be  made  via  the  MahmUdiyeh 
Canal  and  the  Nuzha  Garden  (p.  20),  tlience  to  the  Rond  Point,  and  along 
the  Rue  d' AUemagne  to  the  Place  Mehemet  Ali.  —  2nd  Day.  Visit  the  Museum 
(p.  21)  in  the  morning.  In  the  afternoon  go  by  the  Rue  de  France  to  the 
Palace  of  Rds  et-Tin  and  into  the  Arab  and  Turkish  Quarters  (p.  19). 

Alexandria,  called  Iskaiider'teh  by  the  Avails  and  Turks,  the  sec- 
niid  town  of  Egypt  and  one  of  the  most  important  commercial  cities 
on  the  Mediterranean,  is  situated  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  Nile 
delta,  on  the  narrow  sandy  strip  separating  Lake  Mareotis  from  the 
sea,  in  p:.  long.  29°  58'  and  N.  lat.  31°  1.9'.  In  1907  the  population 
amounted  to  332,  246  (now  estimated  at  400,000),  of  whom  about 
60,000  were  Europeans  f  Franks),  chiefly  Greeks  (24,600)  and  Italians 
(15,916),  but  including  also  some  Britons,  Erench,  and  Austrians, 
and  a  few  llussians,  Germans,  etc.  The  Mohammedans  live  chiefly 
in  theN.  and  W.  quarters  of  the  city,  the  Europeans  in  the  E.  quarter 
and  at  Ranileh.    The  town  has  a  governor  of  its  own  (p.  xlvii). 

Alexandria  has  two  Harbours.  The  Port  Est,  or  E.  harbour, 
known  in  antiquity  as  the  'Great  Harbour'  and  tlieu  sheltered  by 
a  massive  mole,  is  now  accessible  only  for  fishing-boats.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  quay.-i  (see  p.  19).  Tlie  Port  Quest,  or  W.  harbour, 
originally  named  Eunoftos  or  'Harbour  of  the  Safe  Iteturn',  was  not 
freely  used  until  the  time  of  the  later  Roman  emperors.  Since 
1871  it  has  been  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  an  ihtter  Harbotir, 
over  1700  acres  in  area.  This  is  protected  by  a  breakwater  nearly 
2  M.  in  length,  con.structed  of  solid  masses  of  masonry.  A  second 
pier,  or  Molo,  nearly  1000  yds.  in  length,  protects  tiie  Inner  Harbour, 
which  is  about  470  acres  in  area  and  on  an  average  28  ft.  deep.  From 


12      linule  2.  AI-r<;.\AiNl)];)A.  HiMnry. 

tlie  ■beginning  of  tlie  pier  a  series  of  quays,  backed  by  warehouses, 
extends  along  tlie  whole  E.  side  of  tlie  harbour  to  the  Arsenal.  The 
Mahmudiych  or  Mahnudia  Canal  (p.  15)  enters  the  inner  harbour 
by  several  lociis  (PI.  D,  6).  The  port  is  entered  and  cleared  an- 
nually by  upwards  of  '2000  steamers,  about  half  of  which  are  under 
the  British  flag.  In  1912  the  imports  amounted  to  £  E  22,  157,  029  , 
the  exports  (chiefly  cotton,  grain,  cotton-seed,  beans,  rice,  sugar, 
onions,  tomatoes,  etc.)  to  ;£E  33,  790,  256. 

1.  History  and  TorooRAPHY  of  Ancient  Alexandria. 

Alexandria  was  founded  in  331  B.C.  by  Alexandtr  the  Great 
and  forms  a  magnificent  and  lasting  memorial  of  his  Egyptian  cam- 
paign. He  conceived  the  plan  of  founding  a  new  and  splendid  sea- 
port town  in  Egypt,  both  to  facilitate  tlie  flow  of  Egypt's  wealth 
towards  Greece  and  the  Archipelago,  and  to  connect  the  venerable 
kingdom  of  the  Pharaohs  with  that  widely  extended  Greek  em- 
pire which  it  was  his  great  ambition  to  found.  The  site  chosen 
was  opposite  the  island  of  Pharos,  near  the  ancient  Egyptian  village 
of  Rhakotis,  between  the  Mediterranean  Sea  and  the  Mareotic  Lake 
(p.  27),  which  was  connected  with  the  Nile  by  several  navigable 
channels.  The  choice  was  both  judicious  and  far-seeing.  For  the 
older  and  apparently  more  favourably  situated  harbours  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  Delta  were  exposed  to  the  danger  of  being  choked  by  the 
Nile  mud,  owing  to  a  current  in  the  Mediterranean,  beginning  at  the 
Strait  of  (iibraltar  and  washing  the  whole  of  the  N.  African  coast. 
Deinocrates,  the  architect,  was  entrusted  with  the  planning  and 
building  of  the  new  city.  After  Alexander's  death,  when  his  empire 
was^ divided  among  his  generals,  Ptolemy  I.  Soter  (323-285  B.C.) 
came  into  possession  of  Egypt.  During  his  wise  and  upright  reign 
Alexandria  became  a  great  resort  of  artists  and  scholars,  including 
Demetrius  Phalereus,  the  orator,  who  suggested  the  foundation  of 
the  famous  library,  Apelles  and  Antiphilus,  the  painters,  Euclid, 
the  mathematician,  andErasistratus  and  Herophilus,  the  physicians. 
This  Ptolemy  founded  also  the  Museum  (p.  13),  a  splendid  pile  de- 
dicated to  science  and  poetry,  in  which  scholars  dwelt  as  well  as 
studied  and  taught. 

Notwithstanding  the  continual  dissensions  among  the  Ptolemies 
with  regard  to  the  succession  to  the  throne  (p.  cviii),  which  seri- 
ously disturbed  the  peace  of  the  city,  the  fame  of  Alexandria,  as 
the  greatest  centre  of  commerce  in  the  world  and  the  chief  seat  of 
Greek  ;learning,  steadily  increased,  and  it  had  readied  its  zenith 
in  48  B.C.,  when  the  Pomans  interfered  in  the  quarrels  of  Cleo- 
patra and  her  husband  and  lirothex Ptolemy  XIV.  After  the  murder 
of  Pompey  at  Pelusium  Caesar  entered  Alexandria  in  triumph,  but 
was  attacked  by  the  citizens  and  the  army  of  Ptolemy  XIV.  and 
had  considerable  difficulty  in  maintaining  himself    in  the  Regia 


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Aiicirnt  'l\j}in<jr(ijiliii.      AI-lv\  ANDKIA.  -.  Hou(c.     lo 

(see  below).  Caisar  was  afterwards  conquered  by  the  charms  of  the 
I'^gyptian  queeu,  but  Antony  fell  uiore  fatally  into  lier  toils  and 
spent  years  of  revelry  witli  her  at  Alexandria  (42-30).  Augustus 
enlarged  the  city  by  the  addition  of  the  suburb  of  Nicopolis  (see  below 
and  p.  25).  At  this  prosperous  period  Alexandria  is  said  to  have 
numbered  more  than  half-a-million  inhabitants.  The  Greek  element 
predominated,  next  in  importance  to  wliich  was  tlie  Egyptian,  while 
a  numerous,  but  exclusive,  Jewish  community  was  settled  here  as 
early  as  the  4th  cent.  15. C 

The  Greek  scholar  anil  traveller  Stntbo  describes  Alexandria  as  it  was 
in  the  decades  immediately  before  the  beginning  of  our  era.  in  the  17th  Book 
of  his  Geography.  The  former  island  of  Pharos  had  lieen  united  to  the 
mainland  by  an  embankment  known  as  the  Heptastadium  (see  below),  and 
on  the  E.  e.xtreniity  of  the  island  rose  the  famous  lighthouse  built  of 
white  limestone  by  Sostratu.',  the  Cnidian,  in  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  II. 
I'hiladelphus  (completed  in  280-279  B.C.),  which  was  regarded  by  the  an- 
cients as  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  and  gave  its  name  of 'Pharos' 
\n  jll  lighthouses  afterwards  erected.  Its  three-storied  design  became  later 
Ihe  model  for  the  Egyptian  minaret  (p.  cLxxxii).  Its  original  height  is  said 
to  have  lieen  4t)0  ells  (500  ft. 1  and,  though  even  in  antiquity  it  threatened 
more  than  once  to  collapse,  part  of  the  ancient  tower  still  stood  erect  after 
the  great  earthquakes  of  1303  and  1326.  This  was  overwhelmed  by  the  sea 
a  little  later,  and  the  present  fortifications  ('Fort  du  Phare'  or  'Fort  Kait 
15ey')  were  erected  near  its  site  in  the  15th  century.  The  Jlepiastadhmi^ 
a  vast  embankment  seven  stadia  (1 100  yds.)  in  length,  as  its  name  imports, 
was  constructed  by  Ptidemy  Soter  or  by  his  son  Philadelpbus.  It  was 
pierced  by  two  passages,  both  bridged  over,  and  before  Caesar's  time  served 
also  as  an  aqueduct.  Having  since  that  period  been  artificially  enlarged 
iiy  ddbris  from  the  ancient  city,  thrown  into  the  sea,  as  well  as  by  natural 
deposits,  it  has  attained  a  width  of  more  than  1600  yds.  and  now  forms 
the  site  of  a  great  part  of  the  modern  city. 

.\mong  the  Puincipal  Quahtkus  of  the  ancient  city  Strabo  partic- 
ularly mentions  the  Necropolis  or  city  of  the  dead,  at  the  extreme  W. 
end,  'where  there  are  manv  gardens,  tombs,  and  establishments  for  em- 
balming bodies' ;  llhakotis.  'the  quarter  of  Alexandria  situated  above  the 
sliips'  magazines',  chielly  inhabited  by  Egyptians  (comp.  p.  12);  the  Royal 
Citij  (Regia;  afterwards  c aWed  BrucHum),  which  was  subsequently  walled 
in  and  contained  the  palaces  and  public  buildings,  on  the  mainland 
lietween  the  promontory  of  Lochias  and  the  Heptastadium;  the  Jews' 
Quarter,  situated  to  the  E.  of  the  Lochias.  Outside  the  Canopic  gate,  on 
Ihe  E.,  lay  the  hippodrome,  and  farther  to  the  E.,  30  stadia  from  Alexan- 
dria, was  the  suburl)  of  NiropoUs  (p.  26),  which  possessed  an  amphi- 
heatre  and  a  race-conrse. 

The  town  was  regularly  built,  with  streets  intersecting  each  other 
at  right  angles.  The  main  artery  of  traffic  seems  to  have  been  the  long 
street  beginning  at  the  Canopic  gate  (comp.  p.  20). 

Of  the  Pkikoii-ai.  Buildings  of  ancient  Alexandria  the  scanty  relics 
of  a  few  only  can  be  identified.  The  Paneum  is  doubtless  identical 
with  the  modern  Kom  ed-Dik  (p.  20).  The  Gymnasium  probably  lay  to 
the  W.  of  this  point.  The  theatre,  the  Sema,  and  the  Museum  were  all 
three  situated  in  the  'Royal  City'  (see  aliove).  The  Alexandrian  Theatre 
lay  opposite  the  island  oi'  Antirrhodus,  so  that  the  spectators  had  a  fine 
view  of  the  sea  in  the  liackground.  The  Sema,  which  lay  near  the  royal 
palace,  probably  to  the  W.  of  the  present  Government  Hospital  (p.  20), 
was  an  enclosed  space,  within  whicU  were  the  tombs  of  Alexander  the 
Great  and  of  tlie  Ptolemies. 

The  Uuseum,  the  site  of  which  cannot  be  satisfactorily  determined, 
contained  'a  ball  lor  walking,  another  for  sitting,  and  a  large  building 
with   the    refectory   of  the  scholars  residing  at  the  Museum'.    Connected 


14     Route  2.  ALEXANDHIA.  Hislory. 

with  the  Museum  was  the  famous  Alexandrian  Lib7'ary,  which  contained 
400,000  scrolls  as  early  as  the  reign  of  Ttolemy  II.  Philadelphus,  while  in 
Caesar's  time,  when  it  was  burned,  the  number  had  risen  to  about  900,000. 
The  library  lay  to  the  N.  of  the  Museum,  near  the  harbour.  Apart  from  the 
revenues  enjoyed  by  the  Museum  in  its  corporate  capacity,  a  yearly  salary 
was  paid  to  each  of  the  members,  whose  number  in  the  time  of  the  first 
Ptolemies  has  been  estimated  at  one  hundred  at  least. 

The  Serapeum  (Greek  Sarapeion),  or  great  temple  of  .Serapis,  whose 
worship  was  introduced  by  the  Ptolemies,  was  situated  on  the  hill  on 
which  stands  Pompey's  Pillar  (p.  16). 

In  69  A.D.  Vespasian  was  proclaimed  emperor  by  tlie  Alexan- 
drians, his  recognition  having  been  to  a  great  extent  due  to  the 
influence  of  the  philosophers  then  resident  at  the  Museum.  In 
Trajan  s  reign  (^98-117)  the  Jews,  who  constituted  one-third  of 
the  whole  population,  caused  sanguinary  riots.  Hadrian  (117-138), 
who  visited  the  city  in  130,  held  public  disputatious  with  the  pro- 
fessors at  the  Museum.  Marcus  Aureliiis  (161-180)  attended  the 
lectures  of  the  grammarians  Athenseus,  Harpocration,  Hephsestion, 
Julius  Pollux,  and  others.  Lucian  also  lived  at  Alexandria  at  this 
period,  in  the  capacity  of  secretary  to  the  prefect  of  Egypt.  In 
199  Septimius  Severus  (190-211)  visited  Alexandria  and  established 
a  municipal  constitution.  A  disastrous  visit  was  that  of  Caracalla 
(211-217),  who  revenged  himself  for  the  derision  of  the  citizens 
by  a  bloody  massacre  and  also  caused  the  academy  to  be  closed. 
Still  more  disastrous  were  the  contests  between  the  Palmyrenes  and 
the  Imperialists  (p.  cxi),  in  which  a  large  part  of  the  population  was 
swept  away  by  the  sword,  pestilence,  and  famine. 

Christianity  early  found  its  way  to  Alexandria.  According  to 
tradition  the  Gospel  was  first  preached  to  the  Alexandrians  by  St. 
Mark  (whose  bones  were  removed  to  Venice  in  829).  The  first 
great  persecution  of  the  Christians,  which  took  place  in  the  reign 
of  Decius  (250),  was  a  terrible  blow  to  the  Alexandrians.  The  city 
had  for  a  considerable  time  been  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  and  had 
since  190  possessed  a  theological  school,  presided  over  by  Pantanus 
and  Clement  of  Alexandria  (beginning  of  3rd  cent.),  who  endeavour- 
ed to  combine  Christianity  with  the  Neo-Platonism  which  sprang 
up  about  this  period  at  Alexandria  and  was  taught  by  Ammonius 
Saccas,  Herennius,  Plotinus  (p.  233),  Porphyrius,  lamblichus,  and 
others,  A  second  persecution  took  place  in  257,  during  the  reign  of 
Valerian;  and  shortly  afterwards,  in  the  reign  of  Oallienus,  the 
plague  carried  off  a  large  portion  of  the  population.  Alexa  dria, 
however,  still  continued  to  be  regarded  as  the  chief  seat  of  Christian 
erudition  and  of  the  orthodox  faith  (Athanasian  Creed),  until  it 
was  eventually  obliged  to  yield  to  Constantinople  its  proud  posi- 
tion as  the  centre  of  Greek  thought  and  science.  Sanguinary  quar- 
rels'took  place  between  the  Athanasian  party  and  the  Arians  under 
their  unworthy  bishop  Georgius.  On  the  accession  of  Julian  the 
Apostate  (361-363)  the  pagans  of  Alexandria  again  instituted  a 
persecution  of  the  Christians.    In  the  reign  of  Theodosius  (379-395), 


Jiislonj.  AI.EXANDRIA.  2.  Route.    15 

however,  paganism  received  its  death-blow,  and  TheopMlns,  the 
patriarch  of  Alexandria,  displayed  the  ntmost  zeal  in  destroying 
the  heathen  temples  and  monuments.  It  was  at  this  time  that  the 
famous  statue  of  Serapis  was  burned.  The  material  prosperity 
of  the  city  also  fell  off  so  greatly  that  the  municipality  was  no 
longer  able  to  defray  the  cost  of  cleansing  the  Nile  and  keeping 
the  canals  open.  The  revenues  of  Alexandria  were  scill  further 
diminished  by  the  proceedings  of  the  patriarch  Cyril,  who  led  the 
armed  mob  against  the  synagogues  and  expelled  the  Jews  from  the 
city,  and  in  415  the  learned  and  beautiful  pagan  Hypatia,  daugh- 
ter of  the  mathematician  Theon,  was  cruelly  murdered  by  an  in- 
furiated crowd.  Under  Justinian  (r)'27-565)  all  the  still  existing 
heathen  schools  were  finally  closed. 

In  619  Alexandria  was  captured  by  Chosroes  IJ.,  King  of  Persia, 
but  the  Christians  were  left  unmolested.  Ten  years  later  Hera(;lius 
recovered  possession  of  Egypt,  biit  the  troops  of  the  Caliph  Omar 
soon  afterwards  invaded  the  country  and  took^Alexandria  after  a 
prolonged  siege.  In  October,  641,  'Amr  ibn  el-'As,  Omar's  general, 
entered  the  city;  but  he  treated  the  inhabitants  with  moderation. 
The  decline  of  Alexandria  now  became  rapid  in  the  same  propor- 
tion as  the  growing  prosperity  of  the  newly-founded  capital  on  the 
Nile,  the  modern  Cairo,  and  its  commerce  received  a  death-blow 
by  the  discovery  of  America  and  of  the  sea-route  to  India  round 
the  Gape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  decay  of  the  once  powerful  seaport,  which  contained  only 
i'jOOO  inhab.  in  1800,  was  at  length  effectually  arrested  iiy  the 
vigorous  hand  of  Mohammed  All  (p.  oxx),  who  improved  the  har- 
bours and  constructed  several  canals.  The  chief  benefit  he  con- 
ferred on  Alexandria  was  the  construction  of  the  Mahmiidhjeh  Canal 
(p.  12),  begun  in  1819  and  named  after  the  reigning  Sultan  Mab- 
mud  II.  Through  this  channel  the  adjoining  fields  were  irrigated 
anew  and  Alexandria  was  agaiTi  connected  with  the  Nile  and  the  rest 
of  Egypt,  the  products  of  which  had  long  found  their  only  outlets 
through  the  Kosetta  and  Damietta  mouths  of  the  river.  Subsequent 
viceroys  also  made  great  efforts  to  improve  the  position  of  the  town. 
It  suffered  severely,  however,  during  Arabi's  rising  in  1882(p.cxxiii), 
and  a  great  part  of  the  European  quarter  was  laid  in  ashes;  but  all 
traces  of  this  misfortune  have  disappeared  and  the  town  is  again 
quite  prosperous. 

'2.  MoBERN  Alkxandkia. 
The  great  centre  of  European  life  is  the  long  Place  Mehemet 
All  (PI.  F,  4),  or  Vlace  de$  Consuls,  which  is  embellished  with  trees. 
In  the  centre  rises  the  Equestrian  Statue  of  Mohammed  All  (PL  3; 
see  above^,  designed  by  Jacquemart  and  cast  in  Paris.  The  statue 
stands  on  a  pedestal  of  Tuscan  marble.  This  S(iuare  was  the  prin- 
cipal scene  of  destruction  in  188'2.     On  the  N.E.  side  stands  the 


16     floute-2.  AI.KXANDHIA.  J'oinpey's  I'iUnr. 

English  Church  of  St.  Mark  ('Egi.  aiiglicane',  Pi.  F,  4;  p.  11),  ad- 
joined by  St.  Mark's  Building,  belonging  to  the  British  community; 
on  the  E.  side  is  the  Exchange;  on  the  S.W.  are  the  Law  Courts. 
These  are  the  only  buildings  which  escaped  the  fury  of  the  natives  in 
1882.  In  the  garden  beside  St.  Mark's  Building  is  a  bust  of  General 
Earle^  who  fell  at  the  battle  of  Kirbekan  in  1885  (p.  419).  —  From 
the  E.  side  of  the  square  runs  the  busy  Rue  Cherif  Pacha,  the  chief 
seat  of  the  retail  trade,  witli  attractive  shops  (in  the  side-streets 
also);  from  the  S.  side  the  Rue  des  Sceurs  (tramway  No.  1,  p.  9), 
prolonged  by  the  long  Rue  Ibrahim  Premier,  constructed  through 
an  old  and  crowded  Arab  quarter,  leads  to  the  quarter  of  Minet 
el-Bassal  (PI.  D,  E,  6),  the  focus  of  the  cotton  trade,  with  the 
Cotton  Exchange  (accessible  in  the  forenoon  to  visitors  introduced 
to  a  cotton-exporter).  The  Rue  Ibrahim  ends  at  the  Pont  Neuf  or 
Pont  Ibrahim,  crossingthe  Mahmudiyeh  Canal  (p.  12).  On  the  S.  bank 
of  the  canal  lies  the  quarter  of  Mme(  esh-Sharkaunyeh{^Chargaou1ye; 
PI.  D,E,  7),  occupied  by  wholesale  dealers  in  grain,  sugar,  onions,  etc. 
—  Gabbari  and  thence  to  Meks,  see  p.  26. 

From  the  S.Pl  corner  of  the  Place  Meh^met  Ali  we  reach  the 
triangular  Square  Ste.  Catherine  (PI.  F,  4),  with  the  Roman  Catholic 
church  of  St.  Catherine.  The  Rue  Abou  Dardaa  (tramway  No.  4,  p.  10) 
leads  hence  to  the  S.,  passing  the  European  Hospital  (PL  F,  4,  5), 
the  Armenian  Church  (PI.  F,  5),  and  the  College  St.  Francois  Xavier, 
to  the  Sidi  Amr  Mosque  (PI.  G,  6). 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  into  the  Rue  du  Premier  Khedive  and 
then  (almost  at  once)  to  the  left  into  the  Rue  de  la  Colonne  Pompee, 
which  leads  to  the  S.,  past  a  large  Arab  cemetery  (PI.  F,  G,  6,  7), 
to  an  eminence  covered  with  rubbish  and  fragments  of  ruins,  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Serapeum  (p.  14).  Here  rises  *Pompey's  Pillar 
(Arab.  El-'Amud;  PI.  F,  G,  7;  adm.  3  pias.,  June-Sept.  1  pias.,  but 
comp.  p.  21),  the  largest  well-preserved  relic  of  antiquity  in  the 
city.  We  reach  the  top  of  the  plateau  by  a  flight  of  steps.  All 
around  lie  fragments  of  Roman  buildings  and  other  objects  revealed 
by  the  extensive  excavations  begun  by  Botti  (p.  21)  and  continued 
by  the  Von  Sieglin  Expedition  (1898-1902)  and  by  Breccia  (p.  21 ; 
1905-7).  The  monument  is  composed  of  red  granite  from  Assuan. 
The  height  of  the  column,  including  the  rectangular  pedestal  and 
the  Corinthian  capital,  is  88  ft. ;  the  shaft,  68  ft.  high,  is  about 
9  ft.  in  diameter  at  the  bottom  and  not  quite  8  ft.  at  the  top.  The 
foundations,  composed  of  several  blocks  (one  with  the  name  and 
figure  of  Sethos  I.,  p.  ciii)  which  once  belonged  to  other  buldings, 
are  much  damaged.  On  the  W.  side  is  a  much-defaced  inscription 
in  honour  of  the  Emp.  Diocletian,  placed  here  in  292  A.D.  by  a 
Roman  prefect  named  Posidius.  The  latest  theory  in  regard  to  the 
column,  which  may  once  have  belonged  to  the  Temple  of  Serapis, 
is  that  it  was  erected  here  by  the  Emp.  Theodosius  to  commemorate 
the  victory   of  Christianity  and  the  destruction  of  the  Serapeum 


CnLHonnb^.  ALK.\  A  M  H;l  \,  :?.   linutr.      17 

(;}91  A.l). ;  see  p.  15).  The  present  name  ol"  tlie  [lillar  is  due  to 
the  medi;eval  belief  that  it  marked  the  tomb  of  Poinpey  the  Great.  — 
To  the  N.  of  tlie  pillar  is  an  anoient  water-basin,  to  the  S.  are  two 
sphinxes  of  red  granite. 

About  55  yds.  to  the  W.  of  Pompey's  Pillar  'are  iXm  ' Sublervanean 
Passages  of  the  Serapeum  (p.  14;  of  little  interest).  We  descend  by  a 
tlitiUt  of  wooden  steps  into  an  open  court,  from  the  N.  and  S.  corners  of 
which  lonii  passages  are  cut  into  the  rock,  with  small  niches  of  un- 
known purport. 

Continuing  to  follow  tlie  Rue  do  la  Colonne  Pompee  and  its  pro- 
longation, the  Rue  Karmous,  a  little  farther,  and  then  diverging  to 
the  right  by  the  Rue  Bab  el-Melouk,  we  pass  the  small  mosque  of 
tianii'  cl-Miri  and  reach  the  entrance  (PI.  'E.';  F,  8)  to  the  — 

^Catacombs  of  Kom  esh-Shuk&fa  (Pi.  F,  8 ;  'iiill  of  potsherds'), 
lying  on  the  8.   slope  of  a  hill  crowned  by  an  abandoned  fort  and 


now  used  as  a  quarry  (open  8  a.m.  till  sunset;  adm.  5  pias.,  June- 
Sept.  3  pias,;  combination-ticket,  see  p.  21).  This  burial-ground, 
discovered  in  1900,  is  the  most  important  in  Alexandria  and  prob- 
ably dates  from  the  2nd  cent.  A.  D. ;  it  is  an  admirable  example  of  the 
characteristic  Alexandrian  fusion  of  the  Egyptian  and  Grseco-Roman 
styles.  -Modern  flights  of  steps  on  the  side  of  the  hill  lead  to  the  old 
entrance,  which  has  been  restored.  The  chambers  lie  in  several 
stories  one  above  another.  The  main  chambers  seem  to  have  belong- 
ed to  an  Egyptian  grandee,  while  round  about  are  the  smaller  and 
simpler  vaults  of  his  suite  and  dependents.  The  exploration  of  the 
interior  is  facilitated  by  wooden  bridges  and  electric  light. 

A  WrxDiNc;  St.viuc.\si-;  (PI.  A),  with  a  large  ciicular  light-shaft, 
descends  into  two  stories  of  thi' catacouib,  the  lower  of  which  is 
generally  under  water;  near  the  top  of  the  staircase  is  a  Sarco- 


18     fioute  2.  ALEXANDRIA.  Cataroinhs. 

PHAGUS  Chambek  (R)  ot'  later  construction.  From  the  entrance  to 
the  upper  floor  (B),  on  each  side  of  which  is  a  semicircular  re- 
cess with  benches,  we  enter  a  Rotunda  (  C).  In  the  middle  of  this, 
covered  by  a  kind  of  cupola,  is  a  shaft  leading  to  the  lower  stories. 
To  the  right  lie  two  Smaller  Roors  (D,  E),  with  niches  and  sar- 
cophagi. Above  the  latter  are  loculi  or  shelf-tombs.  To  the  left 
is  the  Triclinium  Funebke  (F),  a  large  room  with  a  ceiling  borne 
by  four  pillars.  Three  wide  platforms  or  divans  have  been  hewn 
out  of  the  rock  for  the  banquets  held  in  honour  of  the  deceased.  — 
The  Staircase  (G),  which  commands  a  good  view  of  the  chief  se- 
pulchral chambers,  divides  farther  down  into  two  flights,  flanking 
the  entrance  to  the  lower  story  (H)  and  leading  to  the  Vestibule  (J) 
of  the  grave-chamber  proper. 

The  facade  of  the  vestibule  is  articulated  by  two  Egyptian  col- 
umns, with  elaborate  flower-capitals,  which  bear  a  cornice  adorned 
with  the  winged  solar  disk  and  with  falcons ;  above  this  is  the  flat 
arch  of  the  pediment.  Inside,  in  deep  niches  to  the  right  and  left, 
are  Statuks  of  the  deceased  and  his  wife  in  Egyptian  dress,  carved 
in  white  limestone.  The  door  in  the  rear  wall  of  the  vestibule  is 
surmounted  by  the  winged  sun's  disk  and  a  Urjeus  frieze.  To  the 
right  and  left,  on  pedestals,  are  two  large  serpents  with  the  Egyptian 
double  crown,  the  laduceus  of  Hermes,  and  the  thyrsus  of  Diony- 
sos.    Above  are  shields  with  heads  of  Medusa. 

We  now  enter  the  Sepulchral  Chamber  (K).  The  sarcophagi 
containing  the  remains  stand  in  niclies  (a-c)  and  are  hewn,  like 
their  lids,  out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  fronts  are  adorned,  after  the 
Greek  fashion,  with  festoons,  masks,  heads  of  Medusa,  bucranla, 
and  bunches  of  grapes.  On  the  middle  one  is  a  reclining  figure  of 
the  deceased.  The  walls  of  the  niches  are  decorated  with  represent- 
ations of  religious  import. 

Cknteal  Niche  [a).  Rear  Wall:  On  a  bier  in  the  shape  of  a  lion  rests 
the  mummy,  surrounded  by  Horus,  Thout,  and  Anubis,  the  three  sods 
of  the  lowei-  world;  below  the  bier  are  three  canopic  vases.  Left  Wall: 
On  the  right  a  priest  of  the  dead,  weaving  a  panther-skin,  reads  from  the 
book  of  ritxial;  on  the  left  the  deceased  is  seen  before  an  altar.  Right 
Wall:  A  priest  of  Isis  sacrifices  to  the  goddess.  —  Right  Niche  (b).  Rear 
Wall:  King  or  emperor  offering  a  collar  to  an  Apis  bull,  protected  by 
the  wings  of  Isis.  Left  Wall:  King  sacrificing  to  the  deceased  as  Osiris. 
Right  Wall:  Figures  of  two  gods  of  the  dead,  one  with  the  head  of  a  cyno- 
cephalus.  —  The  representations  in  the  Left  Niche  (c)  are  similar.  —  To 
the  ri^ht  and  loft  of  the  donr  are  the  dog-headed  Auulds,  as  a  warrior, 
and  a  dog-headed  da-mon  with  a  serpent's  body. 

Round  the  sepulchral  chamber  runs  a  Gallery  (L),  entered  from 
the  passage  in  front  of  the  vestibule,  with  two  rows  of  shelf-tombs 
(91  in  all).  Each  of  these  contained  at  least  three  mummies.  The 
names  and  ages  of  the  deceased,  in  red  paint,  are  still  visible  on 
some  of  the  slabs.  —  At  the  back  of  the  gallery  is  a  Sarcophagus 
Chamber  (M),  with  three  tomb-niches  and  plain  pillars.  Adjoining 
the  W.  part  of  the  gallery  are  four  L.iter  Rooms  (N-Q),  with  shelf- 
tombs  and  sarcophagus-niches. 


Greek  Rock  Tomb.^.      ALEXANDRIA.  2.  Route.     19 

Close  by  is  a  Oi'aeco-Homan  Catacomb  of  tbe  3i(i  or  4tli  cent.  A.D.,  in 
three  stories  (excavated  in  llllO).  —  Farther  to  the  W.  lie  some  other 
tiimbs,  of  less  interest  and  noi  worth  visiting. 

The  main  portion  of  the  Akar  Quartkr  lies  on  the  ancient 
Hcptastadium  (p.  13),  between  the  E.  and  the  W.  harbours.  It  con- 
tains several  bazaars.  The  chief  thoroughfare  is  the  Rue  de  France 
(PI.  E,  F,  3,  4),  wliich  begins  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  Place  Me- 
hemet  Ali  (p.  J  5)  and  is  prolonged  by  the  Rue  Masguid  Terbana 
and  tlie  Rue  Ras  et-Tin.  The  last  diverges  to  the  W.  and  inter- 
sects the  TuKKTsu  Quarter  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  on  what  was  formerly 
the  islaTid  of  Pharos  (p.  13),  with  less  narrow  streets  and  pictur- 
esque houses  and  gardens.  Both  these  quarters  present  interesting 
scenes  of  oriental  life. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Rue  Ras  et-Tin,  near  the  shore  of  the  Bay  of 
Anfushi,  lie  two  Greek  Rock  Tombs  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  dating  from 
ca.  200  B.C.  PerniissioM  to  visit  them  must  be  obtained  through 
the  museum  ofliclals  (p.  '21). 

Eastern  Burial  Place.  IJy  means  of  a  fliglit  of  steps  and  a  terraced 
slope  wc  i-each  a  rectangular  court  (now  uncovered)  off  which  open  two 
tombs,  each  consisting  of  a  l.irge  vestibule  and  the  tomb  proper.  The 
ceilings  consist  of  liarrel-vaulting;.  The  walls  of  the  vestibule  of  the  Eaxt 
Tomb  bear  numerous  Greek  inscriptions  and  drawings,  including  a  cleverly 
sketched  ship  with  a  tower.  In  the  rear  wall  of  the  sepulchral  chamber  is  a 
niche  in  the  Egyptian  style.  The  North  Tomb  is  the  tinest  of  all.  The 
walls  of  the  vestibule  terminate  in  a  concave  cornice  and  are  painted  to 
imitate  alabaster  and  black  and  white  marble.  The  painting  of  the  ceilinii 
is  intended  to  make  it  look  as  if  divided  into  colTers.  The  ceiling  of  the 
sepulchral  chamber  seems  to  have  been  painted  with  great  taste;  in  front 
of  the  niche  in  the  rear  wall  is  an  altar  of  limestone.  —  Close  by  is  the 
Western  Burial  Place,  which  is  very  similar  to  that  just  described.  The 
vestibule  of  the  iV''.  Tomb  served  as  a  triclinium  in  which  the  banquet  for 
the  dead  was  held.  The  tomb  still  contains  its  granite  sarcophagus.  In 
the  vestibule  of  the  TV.  Tomb  arc  three  tombs  of  later  date,  constructed 
of  bricks.     1  he  wall-paintiiigs  here   also  imitate  alabaster  and  limestone. 

The  Rue  Ras  et-Tin  ends  at  tlie  khcdivial  Palace  of  Ras  et-Tin 
(PI.  A,  B,  3),  a  name  signifying  'promontory  of  ligs'.  The  palace 
contains  nothing  of  interest  and  is  not  accessible.  The  Harem ,  a 
separate  building,  is  built  on  the  model  of  the  seraglio  at  Constan- 
tinople. —  The  street  skirts  the  N.  side  of  the  palace  to  the  Light- 
house (PI.  A,  4;  no  adni.). 

The  best  return-route  to  the  Place  Me'hemet  All  leads  past  the 
Marine  Arsenal  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  along  the  West  Harbour  (p.  11),  and 
through  the  Ruc>  Moutouch  Pacha,  de  la  Marine,  Bab  el-Kar.isIa,  and 
Anastasi.  To  the  left  of  the  Rue  de  la  Marine  wc  see  the  Fort 
CafarcUi  (PI.  Pj,  5)  or  Fori  Napoleon,  with  a  signal-station. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  also  to  the  new  quays  of  the  East  Har- 
bour (p.  11),  which  were  constructed  at  a  cost  of  £  E  374,000. 
These  have  been  converted  into  an  attractive  boulevard,  called  the 
Quai-Promenado  Abbas-Deux,  on  which  is  situated  the  Government 
Building  (PI.  E,  3).  To  the  N.W.  of  the  harbour  stands  the 
picturesque  Fort  Kait  Bey  (PI.  D,  E,  1) ,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Pharos  [,ighthouse  (p.  13). 


20     Route  2.  ALEXANDRIA.  ■  Nmha  'Umlen. 

Another  importunt  thorouglifare  is  the  Hue  jje  la  Purte  L)E 
Rosette  fPl.  (J-1, 4, 3),  the  continuation  of  theRucSidi  el-Metwalli, 
leading  to  the  E.  from  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  corresponds  with 
the  E.  half  of  the  [ancient  main  street  (p.  13)  and  leads  past  the 
Municipal  Buildiny  to  the  former  Porle  de  Rosette  (PI.  K,  3),  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Canopic  Gate.  —  On  the  top  of  the  Kom  ecl-Dik 
(PI.  H,  I,  4;  115  ft. ;  comp.  p.43),  to  the  S.  of  the  Rne  de  la  Porte  de 
Rosette,  is  the  reservoir  of  the  water-works.  The  water  is  pumped 
up  from  the  Farlcha  Canal,  a  branch  of  the  Mahmudiyeh  Canal. 

In  the  Rue  Nobi  Daniel,  to  the  S.  of  the  Rue  dc  la  Porte  do  Ro- 
sette, is  a  Mosque  [PI.  G,  H,  4),  with  the  tombs  of  Sa'id  Pasha,  Prince 
Hassan,  and  other  members  of  the  khedivial  family.  —  In  the  pro- 
longation of  the  street  towards  the  N.  arc  the  Coptic  Church  of  St. 
Mark  (PI.  G,  4;  1.)  and  the  handsome  Synagogue  (r.). 

In  the  Rue  d'Allbmagne  (PI.  II,  I,  3;  tramway  No.  1,  p.  9), 
on  the  left,  lie  the  Javish  School,  the  German  School,  and  the  Kaiser 
Wilhelni  Heim  (an  asylum  for  old  men).  Farther  on,  on  a  height 
adjoining  the  Jewish  Cemetery,  stands  the  Government  Hospital 
(p.  10).  In  the  gardens  in  front  of  the  hospital  is  the  Omdurmdn 
Column,  an  ancient  granite  column  found  in  the  ■vicinity  and  erect- 
ed to  commemorate  the  taking  of  Khartum  (p.  cxxv).  On  the  base 
are  inscriptions  in  English  and  Arabic  and  two  figures  of  Sekhmet, 
the  Egyptian  lion-headed  goddess  of  war.  The  gardens  of  the  hospital 
(men  not  admitted)  contain  antiquities  excavated  on  the  spot.  On  a 
hill  affording  a  view  of  the  new  harbour  is  the  Victoria  Column,  also 
found  in  this  neighbourhood  and  named  after  Queen  Victoria. 

The  Rue  d'Allemagne  goes  on  past  a  bronze  monument  to  Nubar 
Pa5ha,  chief  minister  under  the  Khedive  Ismail,  to  an  old  Nahlh  or 
cistern  (key  kept  by^the  gardener).  Thence  we  continue  to  follow 
the  tramway-line,  past  some  new  gardens  on  the  site  of  former  forti- 
fications and  the  Porte  de  Rosette  (see  above),  and  reach  the  — 

RoND  Point  (PI.  K,  3).  Three  streets  radiate  hence.  To  the 
S.W.  the  Rue  Menasce,  with  its  continuation  the  Rue  el-Rassafah, 
runs  to  the  Mahmudiyeh  Canal  (p.  12),  On  the  S.E.  the  Rue  Sign 
el-Hadra  leads  to  the  German  Deaconesses'  Hospital  (p.  10)  and  the 
Prisons  (PI.  L,  4).  The  Rue  Palais  No.  3  or  Rue  Sara'i  (tramway  No.  5, 
p.  10),  to  theE.  of  the  Rond Point,  runs  through  the  suburb  of  Hadea, 
with  its  ancient  necropolis,  to  t]ia'*Nuzha  Garden  (with  cafe;  band), 
an  attractive  public  resort  on  the  Mahmudiyeh  Canal  covering  about 
90  acres,  with  a  small  zoological  collection  and  hot-houses  (adm.  to 
tlie  latter  1  pias.).  Close  by  lies  the  Antoniadis  Garden,  with  an  an- 
cient rock-tomb;  adm.  on  application  at  No.  7,  Rue  de  I'Eglise  Deb- 
bane  (PI.  E,  G,  4;  at  the  back).  We  may  return  to  the  city  either 
along  the  highly  picturoS(|ue  canal,  which  is  flanked  on  the  right  by 
villas  and  gardens,  and  via  the  Rue  Karmous  (p.  17),  or  across  the 
Champs  Elystes  (PI.  L,  5;  tramways  Nos.  2  &  7,  see  pp.  9,  10)  and 
via  the  Rue  Moharrem  Bey  (PI.  L-H,  5). 


Museum  ALEXANDRIA.  i>.  Route.    21 

III  tin;  IxiK  Du  MusBK,  wliicb  diverges  to  the  N.  from  tlie  Hue  de 
la  Porte  de  Rosette  (p.  20),  rises  an  edifice  in  tlie  Greeli  style, 
accoinniodatiiig  the  — ■ 

'■Museum  of  Grseco-Eoman  Antiquities  (PI.  H,  3,  4),  founded 
by  Dr.  G.  BoLli  (d.  1903),  an  Italian,  with  the  cooperation  of  the 
Athenaeum  Society  nnd  the  municipal  authorities.  The  museum 
soon  attained  considrrablc  importance.  Most  of  the  contents  are  of 
Alexandrian  origin,  but  some  were  transferred  hither  from  the  Cairo 
Museum.  The  objects  found  in  Alexandria  were  generally  brouglit 
to  light  cither  in  digging  for  old  stones  for  building  houses  (a  com- 
mon practice  here)  or  in  the  course  of  excavations.  Most  of  them 
come  from  tlie  extensive  catacombs  constructed  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  ancient  city.  The  importance  of  the  collection  lies  in  the  bistori- 
<;al  significance  of  these  intrinsically  somewhat  unimpressive  remains. 

The  museum  is  open  daily,  except  on  I'hurs.  from  June  to  Sept., 
9-12  and  3-5.30  (adm.  in  winter  2,  in  summer  1  pias.;  ticket- office 
at  PI.  29,  p.  22).  Combination-tickets  (8  pias.)  are  issued,  in  winter 
only,  for  the  Museum,  I'ompey's  Pillar,  and  Kom  esh-Sliukafa. 
Hand-cameras  are  allowed.    Director,  Prof.  E.  Breccia. 

From  tlie  Vestibule  (PI.  A)  we  Lave  a  view  of  the  statue  of  Hercules 
in  the  transverse  gallery  (p.  24)  connecting  the  two  main  wings  of  the 
museum.  In  the  side-room  on  the  left  (PI.  '28)  is  a  topographical  collection, 
with  plans  of  ancient  and  modern  Alexandria,  photogr.tphs,  drawings,  etc. 
of  Alexandrian  monuments.  —  On  the  right  is  — 

Room  1.  Christian  Antiquities.  Two  line  capitals  of  columns  from 
Alexandria.  Xos.  1-14.  Tombstones  of  monks  of  a  convent  at  Alexandria 
(Ed-Dukheileh).  dating  from  the  6th  century.  15-226.  Or^eco-Ch^istian  and 
l.'optic  tombstones,  chiefly  from  Upper  Egypt ,  with  handled  or  ausated 
crosses  ('the  sign  of  life';  couip.  p.  114),  peacocks,  palms,  and  other  decora- 
tions;  the  inscriptions  often  close  with  the  words  'be  not  sad;  no  one  on 
the  earth  is  iinmortar.  227-251.  Architectural  fragments  of  the  Christian 
period.  —  Fftnne!  A-C:  Coptic  textiles  from  Akhmim  and  Antinoe.  —  In 
the  Cases:  Terracotta  lamps;  vessels.  Cases  G  and  G':  Flasks  for  boldini 
miracle-working  water  from  the  tumb  of  St.  Menas  the  martyr  (p.  28).  Be- 
tween the  two  cases:  240.  Marble  relief  of  St.  Menas,  standing  between  two 
kneeling  camels,  from  Ed-I)ukheileh.  —  In  the  centre:  Magnificent  sar- 
copbagus-)id  of  porphyry;  Christian  mummies. 

Booms  2-5  contain  the  collection  of  Alexandrian  Coins.  The  coins  of 
the  period  of  Alexander  the  Great  and  the  Ptolemies  are  in  E.  5;  those 
from  .Augustus  to  Alexander  Severiis  in  R.  2;  those  from  .Alexander  Severus 
to  Diocletian  in  R.  4  (Salle  Glymenopoulos);  and  those  from  Diocletian  to 
the  conquest  of  Alexandria  in  R.  3.  Tomb-inscriptions  from  Tehna  ,  the 
ancient  Acoris  (p.  -08);  116.  Coptic  inscription.  Case  A  contains  Byzantine 
gold  coins  found  in  a  small  vase  at  Shatbi  (p.  25),  and  also  13  live- 
drachma  pieces,  fnrming  part  of  the  treasure  trove  of  Tukh  el-Karamus 
(p.  99)  and  dating  from  the  reigns  of  the  lirst  two  Ptolemies.  —  In  Room  4: 
Large  vase  adorned  with  (ish  and  birds,  from  Terenuthis;  tombstones  from 
Tehna.  0.  Colossal  seated  figure  of  a  woman,  with  a  girl  beside  her,  a 
grave-monument.  —  We  return  to  the  vestibule  and  thence  proceed  straight 
on  into  — 

Boom  6,  GuKF.K  and  Latin  Insckii'Tioss,  Paitui.  and  Tomustones. 
To  the  right:  18-146.  Votive  and  memorial  inscriptions  of  the  Ptolemaic 
period;  Ptolemaic  tombstones  with  inscriptions  and  representations  resem- 
bling Attic  tombs  of  the  Uh  cent.,  with  small  pediments,  the  enclosed  space 
being  sometimes  coloured,  sometimes  occupied  by  reliefs,  sometimes  merely 
with  name'   in    red    paint;   83.  Tombstone  with   a    dying   woman   attended 


22  Route  2. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


Museum. 


by  her  two  daughters;  87.  Tombstone  wiih  rtilief  of  a  seated  woman; 
88.  Tombstone  with  two  women  from  Pisidia;  97.  Tombstone  with  seated 
figure  of  an  old  man;  l.TO.  Relief  from  the  tombstone  of  a  boy,  represented 
as  carryiug  a  goose  and  playing  with  his  little  dog;  96.  Tombstone  of  a 
soldier  named  l.ycoincdea.  —  To  the  left:  1-18,  146-303.  Votive  and  memorial 
inscriptions,  military  dii>lomas  (176,  177),  and  tombstones  of  the  Roman 
period.  —  In  the  middle:  305.  Lar^e  scarabeeus  in  pink  granite,  from  the 
Serapeum  (p.  14);  Sphinx  with  the  name  of  Haremhcb  (p.  cii),  also  from 
the  Serapeum;  o(51.  Life.sizc  figure  of  .Apis  in  granite,  found  in  the  Sera- 
peum, witli  dedication  to 
Serapis  by  Kmp.  Hadrian 
(on  small  pillar  below); 
347.  Kneeling  figure  of 
Ramses  U.,  dedicating  a 
vase  to  the  god  Atum  of 
Ileliopolis  —  The  Desk 
t'ltses  contain  papyri  of 
the  Ptolemaic  and  Ro- 
man periods. 

Room  7.  Egtptian 
Antiquities.  In  the 
centre:  369.  Colossal  sta- 
tue in  pink  granite  of  one 
of  the  Pharaohs,  after- 
wards usurped  by  Ram- 
ses II.,  with  an  incised  re- 
lief of  his  Consort  at  the 
side,  from  Abukir.  361, 
363.  Two  sphinxes  of 
Amenemhet  from  Abu- 
kir, afterwards  usurped 
by  Ramses  II.  for  a 
liuilding  of  hia  own.  417. 
Bust  of  Ramses  II.,  from 
Abukir.  376.  Capital  of  a 
sistrum-column  (p.  clxi), 
with  fine  heads  of  Hathor. 
Room  8  (continuation 
of  the  Egyptiag.  collec- 
tion). 885,386-389.  Wood- 
en coffins  from  the  com- 
mon tomb  of  the  priests 
of  Anion  in  Deir  el-Bahri 
(p.  305);  383.  Mummy'of 
a  late  -  Egyptian  period. 
—  '380.    Fine    bas-relief 

« •?     —B^ ^..^»^_-_- g°j];i  Qf  j.jjg  Saite  period,  with 

a  man  (1.)  in  a  (lowing 
robe,  a  harper,  and  singing- women.  378,  379,  381-383.  Limestone  coffins 
in  the  shape  of  mummies,  from  Upper  Egypt. 

Boom  9  (continuation  of  the  Egyptian  collection).  407.  Seated  figure  oi 
the  lion-headed  goddess  Sekhmet,  erected  by  Amenophis  III.  in  the  temple 
of  Mut  at  Karnak  (p.  280);  415.  Bust  of  a  priest;  426.  Granite  statue  of 
Ramses  II. ;  420.  Pillar  from  the  temple  of  Atum  in  Heliopolis,  with  names 
and  representations  of  Ramses  II.,  found  in  Alexandria.  —  In  the  Table 
Case  in  the  centre:  Mummy-masks,  garlands,  head-rests  (one  with  the  head 
or  the  god  Bes),  sandals,  etc.,  from  Deir  el-Bahri. 

Room  10  (Salle  Antoniadis).  Smaller  Egyptian  Sculptukes.  460.  Sacri- 
licial  stone,  from  Abu.sir  near  Samaniid.  —  Case  C:  Bronze,  wooden,  and 
f:iyence  figures  of  deities  and  sacred  animals  (Osiris  ;  Thout;  Ptah;  Patsekes, 
p.  100;  Nefertem;  Anubis;  Apis;  etc.).  —  Case  AA:  Sacred  falcons,  cats, 
and  cyuocephali ;  figures  of  deities  (Imhotep;  Sekhmet;  Bastet);  gilt  UrsEus- 
snakes.   —    Case  E:   Figures   of  deities.     Hieratic   and   demotic  papyri.   — 


Museum.  ALEXANDRIA.  2.  Route.     23 

(Jase  U:  Alabaster  vases;  canopic  vase^.  —  Casi:  BB:  Bronze  ligures  of 
deities  (Isis;  Neith;  Amon;  llarpocrates ;  etc.);  folding  chair  with  heads  of 
geese.  —  I'ase  L:  Ushebtis  (p.  cxlviii)  in  fayence.  —  Tahle  Case  0:  Scarahaei, 
amulets,  and  rings  in  fayencf.  —  Table  Case  P:  Siuall  vases  from  Rhode? 
and  Cyprus;  gold  ornaments  of  the  Ptolemaic,  Roman,  and  Uyzantine 
periods  (armlets,  necklaces,  rings,  and  earrings).  —  (In  the  right,  Plaster 
cast  of  the  statue  of  (^ueen  Amenertais  (museum  of  Cairo,  p.  8S). 

Room  11.  (!i:.Eco-E«ri"TiAN  and  Roman-Egyptian  Antiquitiks.  3192 
et  seij.,  Statues  of  a  late  period,  prohably  representin;;;  priests,  some  of  them 
with  names  (Peteeais,  Ptolimy,  Iremeus).  '3704.  Good  portrait- head  in 
black  basalt.  —  In  frames  on  the  right  wall:  3180  et  seq..  Remains  of  wall- 
paintings  found  near  Pompey's  Pillar,  interesting  as  forerunners  and  analogies 
of  the  Pompeian  style,  and  like  No.  3185  (Tomb -painting  from  Gabbari), 
showing  a  mixture  of  the  (ire:k  and  Egyjjtian  styles.  23.  Fine  portrait  of 
a  Roman ;  3163.  Bas-relief  with  the  portrait  of  one  of  the  Ptolemies.  —  On 
the  left  wall;  11-lG.  Relief  with  a  representation  of  Horus  with  the  falcon's 
bead  (1.)  and  of  .another  deity  (r.).  from  a  temple  of  the  Ptolemaic  period 
at  Athribis  (Benha,  p.  34). 

Room  12.  PoKTKAiT  Bdsts  and  Smaller  Scdlptukes.  In  the  centre: 
Marble  statue  of  a  Roman  emperor;  a  figure  on  the  lower  part  of  the 
armour  has  been  effaced  in  the  Christian  period  and  replaced  by  the 
monogram  of  Christ.  —  2.  Head  of  a  boy;  3.  Roman  woman;  1.  Charming 
head  of  a  child  from  Kom  esh-Shukafa;  16.  Head  of  a  youth,  of  the  Attic 
school  of  the  4th  cent.  B.C.;  17.  Alexander  the  Gre:\t(?)  in  red  granite 
18.  Julius  Csesar;  19.  Cleopatra;  "45  (3908).  Ideal  head  of  a  woman.  —  Case  A  : 
Small  sculptures,  heads  of  women;  10-12.  Busts  of  Ptolemaic  princesses; 
20.  Faun.  —^32,  32a  (3337,  3339).  Busts  of  men,  from  Suk  el-Wardian 
(near  Wardiian,  p.  26);  33.  Colossal  head  of  Alexander  IV.  (V)  in  the  royal 
Egyptian  headgear;  60.  Colossal  head  of  Ptolemy  IV.  in  Egyptian  costume, 
with  the  double  crown.  —  Case  B :  ''20-24.  Small  busts  of  Alexander ;  pleasing 
marble  heads  of  women  and  others;  below,  Statuettes  of  Venus. —  '^'BB. 
Head  of  Hercules  in  marble,  thought  now  to  be  Zeus  (the  hair  in  a  sep- 
arate piece). 

Room  13.  ScuLBTURES  AND  Architectural  Fragments.  1.  Statue  of  an 
emperor;  3.  Small  Egyptian  naos  from  Hadra.  —  4-7.  Draped  statuettes 
(No.  5  from  Gabbari,  p.  26). 

Room  14  (continuation  of  the  preceding  collection).  3661.  Torso  of  the 
marble  statue  i  it'  a  philosopher;  sphinxes;  15-17.  Elegant  composite  Qower- 
ciipitals,  found  at  Alexandria  in  the  Rue  d'AUemagne  (p.  20). 

Room  15  (continuation  of  the  above  collection).  29,  50.  Frescoes  from 
(omlis  at  Gabbari.  —  Rnuud  the  room  are  architectural  fragments  and 
.small  altars  from  tombs  at  Gabbari,  made  of  Meks  limestone  and  executed 
in  the  mixed  Greek  and  Egyptian  style,  some  of  very  fine  workmanship. 
The  .same  style  is  shown  in  Nos.  2  and  '3,  brightly  painted  capitals  (in 
which  the  Egyptian  papyrus  motive  is  used)  from  the  quarter  of  the  palace 
of  the  Ptolemies. 

Room  16.  Sculptures.  62  (3930).  Arm  bearing  a  globe,  probably  par 
of  a  colossal  statue  of  an  emperor,  from  Benha.  —  On  the  left  wall:  32. 
Fragment  of  a  statue  of  Zeus(?)  found  in  the  East  Harbour  (p.  11)  and 
notable  for  its  draiieries  and  colouring;  40.  Colossal  seated  marble  figure 
of  Zeus-Serapis;  39,  41.  Colossal  heads  of  Zeus-Serapis  ;  52.  Roman  head; 
14.  Apollo  on  the  omphalos;  on  two  granite  columns  are  fine  Ionic  capitals  ; 
51.  Recumbent  tomb-figure  of  a  Roman,  from  Abukir.  —  In  the  centre  :  Two 
baths;  B.  Colossal  eagle.  —  By  the  right  wall:  7(3S6S).  Maenad;  13.  Nymph; 
17.  Venus.  —  By  the  door-posts  at  the  entrance  to  the  following  room: 
3895,  389j.  Sleeping  genii. 

Room  17.  Small  Oujects  op  Art.  Cases  A  and  B  are  temporarily 
filled  with  oli.jects  discovered  in  the  tombs  of  Shatbi,  and  Gritco-Egyptian 
ligures  of  deities  from  Ibrahimiyeh  (p.  25).  —  To  the  right  and  left  of  the 
entrance:  Cases  C  and  E.  Fine  glass  bottles,  including  dark-blue  specimens 
with  veins  of  yellow  and  white.  —  2312.  Helmet.  —  In  the  centre:  R,  JT,  J'T. 
Mummies  with  portraits  of  the  deceased  painted  on  wood  (2nd  cent.  A.D.); 
mummies    of   various   periods.    —    Case  QQ.    Cobjured   plaster    masks    of 

Baudkker's  Egypt.     7lh  Edit.  2 


24    Route  2.  ALEXANDRIA.  Museum. 

the  Roman  iicriod  (2nd  cent.  A.  1).);  2319.  Fine  hrad  cif  a  youtli  fiom 
Gabbari.  —  obis,  4,  4i'is.  Green  fayence  vessels  from  a  tomb  at  Gabbari.  — 
Table  Case  BR.  lironze  mirrors;  objects  in  gold  and  silver,  gems,  and 
glass.  —  On  the  walls:  5334.  Colossal  porphyry  statue,  often  taken  for  a 
figure  of  Christ ;  marble  sarcophagus  with  scenes  in  relief  from  the  story 
of  Ariadne.  —  Cases  A  and  SB.  Cinerary  urns  from  Iladra,  apparently, 
to  judge  from  the  inscriptions,  of  Greek  mercenaries  in  the  service  of 
the  Ptolemies. 

Koom  18.  Ceramics  and  Objects  from  Tombs.  Terracotta  flgure.s  of 
the  Roman  period,  especially  flgutes  of  gods,  which  seem  to  have  served 
as  images  of  saints  in  the  houses  of  the  common  people.  —  Case  -ff.  Baubo 
and  Bes.  —  Cetse  I.  Women  with  tymbals  and  baskets. —  Cases  M,  D,  and 
Z.  Harpocrates  (Ihe  youthful  Horus  ,  identified  by  the  side-lock  and  the 
finger  on  the  lips),  often  represente<l  as  riding  on  animals.  —  Case  EE. 
Isis.  —  Case  GG.  Cupid  and  Venus.  —  Case  HE.  Heads  of  Venus.  —  Case  V. 
Charioteer  (368);  animals;  836.  Frog  seated  on  a  fish  and  playing  on  a  lyre 
(burlesque  of  Arion  on  the  dolphin  i.  —  Case  B.  Figures  from  comedy,  etc. 
—  Cases  F  and  ^f.  Terracottas  of  the  Ptolemaic  period,  from  tombs  near 
Alexandria;  fragments  of 'terra  sigillata' (Aretine  vases).  —  Case  0.  liarly 
Ptolemaic  terracottas.  The  -'Figures  of  girls  are  distinguished  by  deli- 
cacy of  execution  and  colouring,  and  some  of  them  (e.  g.  one  with  a  lute) 
rival  the  best  Tanagra  figurines.  —  Fragments  of  a  red  glazed  plaque  with 
the  head  of  'Africa  and  gladiators  fighling  with  wild  beasts.  —  On  the 
floor:     'Jlosaics  from  a  temple  at  Abukir  (p.  30). 

Room  19.     'Mosaic  and  cinerary  urns  from  Sliatbl  (p.  £5). 

Room  20.  On.iECTS  FROM  To.MBS.  In  the  middle  :  Torsos  of  a  fine  group 
of  Dionysos  and  the  Fann,  executed  under  the  influence  of  the  school  of 
Praxiteles.  —  Cases  A  and  B.    Greek  vases  and  terracotta  figures. 

Room  21.  In  a  covered  Glass  Case:  Objects  from  tombs;  sepulchral 
wreaths  in  terracotta  and  gilded  bron/.e.  —  Case  A.  Terracotta  figures  and 
vases  from  the  excavations  at  Ibrahimiyeh  (p.  25).  —  Case  B.  Similar 
objects  from  Shathi. 

Room  22.  Fragments  from  Canoi'us  (p.  30).  Mosaic  of  warriors  sur- 
rounded by  griffins;  on  the  walls,  architectural  fragments.  —  We  return 
to  R.  17  and  there  turn  to  the  left  into  the  — 

Transverse  Gallery  (PI.  13).  '8.  Colossal  seated  marble  figure  of  Her- 
cules. A  side-room  (PI.  27;  adm.  by  special  permission  only)  contains  copies 
and  articles  not  adapted  for  public  exhibitioii. 

In  the  Garden  (PI. 24)  :  Two  sphinxes  of  Apries  (p.  ovi),  originally  erect- 
ed at  lleliopolis;  24.  Colossal  head  of  Antonius  as  Osiris,  from  Hadra  ; 
4-7.  Tomb  monuments  from  Shatbi;  I^arge  limestone,  granite,  and  marble 
sarcophagi  from  Abukir,  Hadra,  Kom  esli-Shukafa,  and  other  idaces;  Ptol- 
emaic tomb  with  a  large  sepulchral  bed  and  remains  of  painting,  from 
Suk  el-Wardian  (near  Wardian,  p.  26).  —  On  the  other  side  of  the  trans- 
verse gallery  are  some  reconstructions  of  Hellenistic  and  Roman  tombs 
(PI.  25  and  26). 

3.  Environs  ov  Alkxaniuiia  (Ramleh,  Meks). 

From  Alexandria  to  Ramleh  the  best  route  is  by  the  Electric  Tram- 
way starting  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Rue  Missalla  (PI.  G,  3;  from  5.30  a.m. 
till  1  a.m.;  ist  cl.  fare  2  pias.,  book  containing  50  tickets  75  pias.).  The 
'Service  Palais'  (every  8  min.)  runs  on  the  N.  line,  the  'Service  Bacos'  (every 
41/2  min.)  on  the  S.  line  (diverging  from  each  other  at  Bulkeley,  see  p.  26). 
The  journey  takes  about  V2  hr.  —  The  railway  (AbukirRosetta  line,  p.  30) 
is  of  practically  no  use  to  tourists. 

From  the  starting-point  we  have  a  flue  view  of  the  E.  Larbour; 
projecting  into  the  sea,  to  the  left,  is  tlie  small  Fort  iSUsUeh(F\.  H,  1). 
The  line  runs  parallel  with  the  quay ;  on  the  left  is  the  Lyce'e  Fran- 
^•ais,  on  the  right  the  large  buildings  of  the  Greek  orphanage  and 


Environs. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


:'.  Koiile.     25 


the  Greek  school.  The  first  stopping-place  is  Shalbi  {Chatby;  PI.  1, 
2),  beyond  whicli  we  pass  the  Jewish,  Christian,  and  Arab  cemeteries. 
—  Near  the  station  of  Chathy-lrs-Baim  (PI.  K,  1),  to  the  left,  on  the 
shore,  are  sea-baths  and  an  ancient  necropolis,  the  tombs  of  which 
belong  mostly  to  the  early-Ptolemaic  period  (intending  visitors  must 
be  provided  M-ith  a  permit  from  Prol'.  l>reccia,  p.  21).  We  now 
traverse  the  rubbish-heaps  of  the  ancient  Alcopoif's  (p.  13),  the  large 
E.  suburb  of  Alexandria  founded  by  Augnstus  on  the  site  of  his 


Wagner  i  Deljes,  Leipag 

liiial  victory  over  the  adlierents  of  Antony  (station.  Camp  de  Cesar; 
PI.  K,  l),and  reach  the  suburban  station  oi Ihrdhlrrilijehi Ihrahimia), 
with  a  Greek-Orthodox  church  and  numerous  villas.  Near  here  is  a 
Grzeco- Jewish  necropolis  of  the  3rd  cent.  B.C. 

The  next  stations  are  Sporting  Club  (a  British  club  with  a  race- 
course) and  Cleopatra;  on  the  right  are  the  Lake  of  Hadra  and  the 
broad  expanse  of  Lake  Mareotis.  Beside  the  station  of  S7di  Oaber  (a 
station  on  the  railway  to  Cairo,  p.  31,  at  which  the  Abuktr-Rosetta 
line,  p.  30,  diverges)  is  (I.)  a  mosque,  built  by  the  present  Khedive 
over  the  tomb  of  the  Mohammedan  saint  Sidi  Gaber. 

The  track  now  runs  parallel  with  the  road  from  Alexandria- 
Stat.  Moustapha  Pacha.  On  an  eminence  to  the  left  are  the  remains 
of  a  chateau  built  by  Isma'il  Paslia,  now  used  by  the  British  mili- 


26     Route  -2.  RAMLEH.  Environs 

tary  authorities,  and  barracks  for  British  troops  (parade  servico  in 
the  garrison  church  of  St.  George  at  1 1  a.m.).  The  builuing- material 
for  the  cliateau  was  taken  from  the  ruins  of  the  Kasr  el-Kaydsereh 
('Cast)e  of  CiBsar'),  an  old  fortifled  Roman  camp  in  the  vicinity.  — 
The  attractive  villas  of  Ramleh  begin  at  Carifon, (Carlton  Hotel.  PI.  a, 
A  2,  pens.  :'iO-60pias.)  and  Bulkeley.  The  latter,  which  contains  the 
English  church  of  All  Saints  [Vl.  A,  1 ;  Rev.  H.  T.  Valentine;  services 
at  8.30,  11,  «fc  6.30 ),  is  named,  like  most  of  the  following  stations, 
after  one  of  the  promoters  of  the  railway. 

Ramleh  (i.e.  'sand')  is  the  favourite  summer-resort  for  well-to- 
do  Alexandrians  and  Cairenes;  in  winter  it  is  not  so  attractive  to 
tourists.  The  N.  line  (p.  24)  runs  via  Saha  Pacha,  Gljimenopoulos 
(New  Victoria  Hotel,  Pi.  b,  B  1 ,  pens.  40  pias.),  Mazloum  Pacha, 
and  Zizinia  to  San  Stefano  and  then  via  Laurem  and  past  the  palace 
of  the  present  Khedive  s  mother  (no  almission)  to  the  terminus  at 
Victoria  College.  The  Litter,  o|iened  in  1909,  was  founded  by  public 
subscription  in  1901  in  memory  of  Queen  Victoria,  to  provide  a 
liberal  erlucation  on  the  lines  of  the  English  public  schools.  —  The 
S.  line  runs  to  the  right  via  Fleming  (Hot.  Miramare,  PI.  c,  B  2, 
Italian),  Bacos,  Se/fer,  Schulz  (Hot.  de  Plaisance.  PI.  d,  C  1,  pens. 
8-12  fr.),  and  Uianaclis,  and  reaches  its  terminus  at  San  Stefano. 
Bacos,  the  central  part  of  Ramleh,  has  a  bazaar,  a  mosque,  and  a 
Roman  Catholic  diurch  and  school.  Near  San  Stefano,  on  the  shore, 
are  the  *  Hotel-  Casino  San  Stefano  (PI.  B,  C,  1 ;  owned  by  the 
George  Nungovich  Co.,  see  p.  35;  pens.  60-100  pias.),  with  garden, 
terrace,  sea-baths,  theatre,  and  concert-rooms  (adm.  5  pias.),  the 
Hotel  Beau-Riuage  (PI.  e,  C  1 ;  pens.  50-70  pias.,  good),  with  flue 
garden,  the  Hotel  Bagdad  (PI.  f;  B,  1),  the  Villa  Margherita  (PL  g, 
C  1 ;  pens.  40-50  pias.),  and  the  New  Victoria  Hotel. 


From  Alexandiua  to  Miiics:  Electiii;  tramway  from  Gabbari  in  connec- 
tion with  Line  Ko.  1  on  p.  9,  eveiy  10  min.  in  25  min.  (fares  10,  5  mill.). 

From  the  suburb  of  Gahhari  (PL  C,  D,  8)  the  electric  tramway 
runs  to  the  S.W.  by  tlie  Route  du  Meks,  traversing  the  hilly  Necro- 
polis of  the  imperial  period  (p.  13).  On  the  left  are  the  gardens, 
the  picturesque  mosque,  and  the  palace  of  Gahhari,  the  last  now 
a  Quarantine  or  lazzaretto.  A  number  of  interesting  tomb-chambers, 
called  Baths  of  Cleopatra,  are  cut  out  of  the  limestone  of  the 
coast-hills.  —  Farther  on  we  pass  through  the  Arab  village  of  War- 
didn;  to  the  right  is  the  slaughter-house ,  to  the  left  the  starting- 
point  of  the  Maryiit  railway  (p.  27). 

Meks  or  Me.v,  the  terminus  of  the  tramway,  is  visited  for  sea- 
bathing. On  the  beach  are  several  hotels,  the  Nuovo  Casino  Restaur- 
ant, and  the  Bab  el- Arab  ('Beduin  Gate'),  part  of  the  old  fortifica- 
tions.   Farther  to  the  S.W.  are  the  quarries  mentioned  on  p.  Isviii. 


of  Alexandria.  ^  AMRIYEH.  l\  Route.     27 

4.  Makeotis  District  (City  oi-  St.  Menas,  Akusir). 

An  excursion  <o  the  Marcotis  district,  intinefting  both  for  its  scenery 
and  history,  is  rccinnniended,  especially  in  Feb.  and  Ularch,  when  the 
desert  flora  is  S('i;n  at  its  best.  A  visit  to  the  ruins  of  Abusir  takes  a 
whole  day,  imluding  the  Jonrnoy  tliere  and  back;  furtlie  City  of  St.  Menas 
two  days  arc  required,  but  Abu.sir  may  lie  included  on  the  way  back.  The 
point  of  departure  fur  both  places  is  Behiff,  a.  station  on  the  JfAKYOr  Light 
Railway,  a  private  line  belonging  to  the  Khedive  (Daira  K/iassa),  which 
starts  at  Wardidn  (p.  20).  From  Alexandria  we  may  either  take  the 
electric  tramway  from  the  Place  Mi'hcmet  Ali  to  the  station  of  Wardian 
and  go  by  the  early  train  thence  (2hrs.;  fares  2'J,  11  pias.),  or  go  direct 
from  the  Gare  du  Oaire  (p.  9)  by  tlie  forenoon  express  (I'/s  In-.;  29V2, 
15  pias.).  As  ridina;-aninials  cannot  be  procured  at  Behig,  the  traveller 
must  brin?  a  donkey  with  lilm  from  Alexandria,  or  must  arrange  with  the 
police  officer  at  Kehig  or  with  the  Ma'miir  of  Ainriyeh  (see  below)  to  have 
a  horse  or  donkey  (for  an  extended  tour  a  camel ;  15-20  pias.  per  day  and 
fee)  sent  to  meet  him;  in  the  latter  case  a  recommendation  from  the  com- 
mandant's office  in  Alexandria  or  from  a  consul  is  necessary.  —  From 
Behig  to  the  (!ity  of  St.  Menas  2  hrs.,  to  Abusir  ca.  I'/a  hr.  The  night  is 
.spent  in  the  rest-house  near  the  City  of  St.Menas  (key  at  the  Jluseum  in 
Alexandria),  at  the  police-station  ofBehig  (recommendation  from  the  com- 
mandant, soe  above),  or  in  tents.  The  visitor  should  be  furnished  with 
pruvisions,  water,  and  candles. 

lIisroKY.  To  the  S.  of  the  narrow  strip  of  sand  on  which  Alexandria 
stands  there  has  lain  from  time  immemorial  a  large  inland  sheet  of  water, 
uameil  by  the  ancients  Lake  Mare.otis  or  Martia  (Arab.  Belieiret  ifaryiit). 
The  lake  lies  8  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea  and  was  connected  with  the 
Xile  by  navigable  channels  through  which  the  products  of  Egypt  were 
brought  (oAlexandria.  In  the  lake  lay  eight  island.s,  covered  with  luxurious 
country-houses;  its  banks  were  exuberantly  fertile,  and  its  white  wines  are 
celebrated  by  Horace  and  Virgil.  In  the  middle  ages  the  lake  dried  up. 
r>uring  the  siege  of  Alexandria  in  ISOl  the  British  cut  through  the  dunes 
at  Abukir.  The  sea  at  once  rushed  in,  destroying  150  villages,  and  it  still 
covers  "about  77  sq.  31.,  although  Jloliammed  AH  (p.  15)  spared  no  cost  to 
win  back  the  land  for  cultivation.  The  present  Khedive  also  is  doing  his 
utmost  by  a  carefully  planned  system  of  agriculture  to  improve  the  arable 
roast-plain,  which  extends  on  the  W.  into  the  Libyan  Desert.  The  district 
is  mainly  inhabited  by  I'.eduins,  living  partly  in  small  villages  and  partly 
in  tents,  who  trade  in  camels  and  raise  sheep.  Among  the  grain-crops 
barley  flourishes  with  especial  success;  vineyards  and  orchards  have  also 
been  again  planted. 

'I'lie  Maryut  railway  (see  above),  starting  at  Wardian.  runs 
along  tlie  N.  bank  of  Lake  Mareotis,  with  the  houses  of  Meks  (-p.  26) 
to  the  right.  Tiie  lirst  station  is  (2  M.)  Me.v  Junction,  with  the  large 
factory  of  the  Egyptian  Salt  &  Soda  Company;  the  connecting-line 
from  Alexandria  (coinp.  above)  joins  ours  on  the  left.  —  The  train  now 
runs  to  the  S.  along  an  enibankment  (2^/4  M.  long  I  througli  the  lake, 
then  turns  to  the  W.  and  traverses  cultivated  land  to  (0  M.)  Mergheb, 
a  small  Beduin  settlement.  —  IOV2  M.  'Abd  el-Kdder;  above  the 
village  stands  the  small  mosque  dedicated  to  the  saint  of  tliat  name. 
—  121/2  -^'-  Amrhjeh  (Amria),  with  pretty  gardens  and  a  villa  of  the 
Khedive,  is  tlie  headqtiarters  of  the  >!a'mta-,  the  liighest  police  offi- 
cial in  the  Mareotis.  Tlie  Beduin  market  held  here  on  Wednesdays 
presents  an  animated  scene,  when  camels,  horses,  grain,  etc.,  are 
offered  for  sale;  it  is  especially  interesting  in  Dec,  Jan.,  and  Feb., 
when  the  date  caravans  arrive  from  the  oasis  of  Siweh  (p.  378).  — 


28    Route  2.  CITT  OF  ST.  MENAS.       ,  Pmv irons 

I0I/2  M.   Second   Mariout,    with    vineyards.     J""arther   on    wo   pass 
through  cultivated  land  and  desert.  —  21  M.  Hawarhjeh  (Hawaria). 

26V2  M.  Behig  (Bahig),  where  we  leave  the  train. 

Fkom  Bkhig  to  the  City  of  St.  Menas,  7'/2  M-  —  From  the 
station  we  ride  to  the  S.E.  across  the  railway  emhankment  to  (^/^  M.) 
the  Bir  'Eseili,  a  deep  cistern  witlt  good  drinking-water,  at  which 
the  P.eduins  water  their  herds  of  camels.  Close  hy  are  a  few  houses 
and  a  small  school.  Proceeding  to  the  iS.E.  we  ascend  an  eminence 
from  whicli  we  have  a  pretty  view  of  P>ehig,  of  Gebel  Batn  (con- 
cealing the  sea),  and  of  Ahusir.  Farther  on  our  route  passes  be- 
tween fields  of  grain  till  the  plateau  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  is 
reached  and  the  hills  of  the  City  of  St.  Menas  appear. 

The  City  of  St.  Menas,  called  harm  Abum  or  Bu  Mna  (i.  e.  Karm 
Abu  M7na)  hy  the  Rodnins,  lies  in  the  Mareotic  Desert,  about  half- 
way between  Alexandria  and  the  Wadi  Natrun.  St.  Menas  (d.  296 
A.D.),  who  was  looked  upon  as  a  kind  of  patron-saint  of  the  fabyan 
Desert,  was  buried  here,  and  in  Christian  times  his  tomb  was  a  fav- 
ourite place  of  pilgrimage,  whence  the  pilgrims  carried  away  clay 
flasks  filled  with  its  wonder-working  water  (so-called  Menas  flasks). 

The  extensive  site  was  re -discovered  and  successfully  excavated  in 
1905-7  by  Monsignor  Carl  Maria  Kaufniann ;  comp.  'Three  Years  in  the 
Libyan  De'iert'  by  /.  C.  En-ctld  Falls,  tran^l.  by  KHz.  Lee  (L;mdon,  1913;  15s.). 
The  objects  discovered  among  the  ruins  are  in  the  museums  nf  Alexandria 
and  Frankfort. 

The  great  P>.vsilica  of  Arcauius,  the  building  oif  which  was 
begun  by  that  emperor  (P)95-408)  and  completed  by  the  Patriarch 
Timothy,  forms  the  central  point  of  the  ancient  city,  the  streets  and 
houses  of  which  are  clearly  distinguishable.  The  church,  which  is 
orientated  with  great  exactitude ,  is  built  on  the  early-Christian 
cruciform  plan.  It  consists  of  nave,  aisles,  and  transept  supported 
by  06  columns  and  adjoined  on  tlie  E.  by  an  apse  or  chancel,  36  ft. 
in  width.  The  transept,  164  ft.  long  and  66  ft.  wide,  has  a  small 
apsidal  recess  at  each  end;  in  the  centre  stand  four  columns,  for- 
merly bearing  a  canopy  and  marking  the  site  of  the  altar.  Access 
is  obtained  from  the  apse  into  some  vaulted  tomb-chambers.  The 
chief  entrance  (atrium),  consisting  of  three  portals,  is  in  the  S. 
aisle,  and  there  are  other  entrances  at  the  beginning  of  the  N.  aisle 
and  In  the  N.  transept.  A  number  of  other  rooms,  subterranean 
tomb-chambers,  corridors,  and  cellars  adjoin  the  aisles.  —  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  basilica  stands  a  tower-like  building,  the  main  apse 
of  the  original  Burial  Church  of  St.  Menas,  of  earlier  date.  This 
consists  of  a  basilica,  125  ft.  long  and  74  ft.  broad,  with  nave  and 
aisles  each  terminating  in  an  apse.  The  whole  is  built  over  an  exten- 
sive crypt  lying  26  ft.  below  and  reached  by  a  broad  flight  of  marble 
steps.  —  Close  by  the  burial  church,  on  the  W.,  is  an  octagonal 
Baptistery,  with  a  baptismal  piscina  in  the  middle. 

On  the  outer  circumference  of  the  town,  in  the  midst  of  a  ceme- 
tery on  the  N.,  stands  another  Basilica,  with  apse,  prothesis,  diaco- 


of  Mciiindria.  AHUSIK.  -J.  Route.    29 

uicum  (sacristy),  aud  uumeious  other  chambers,  including  an  elegant 
baptistery  adjoining  the  right  aisle.  —  In  various  quarters  of  the 
town  are  several  potteries  and  kilns,  in  which  the  clay  flasks  for 
pilgrims  (comp.  p.  28)  were  made.  Among  the  other  secular  build- 
ings are  some  cisterns  and  an  early-Christian  hospice  (with  baths). 
To  visit  the  Wadi  NatrO.v  (p.  32)  from  the  City  of  St.  Menas  2-3  days 
are  required ;  the  ride  to  the  edge  of  the  valley  takes  1/2  day.  Guides 
(15  pias.  per  day):  Sheikh  Sidi  Sadaui,  at  Amriyeli  (p.  27) ;  Aloani  Hamed, 
at  Behig;  Sheikh  Muftah  Dabun,  near  the  City  of  St.  Menas.  Camels, 
see  p.  27;  besides  the  riding -cameH  a  camel  to  carry  water  is  necessary. 
The  camp  should  be  pitched  near  Bir  Hooker,  the  terminus  of  the  light 
railway  fmm  Khatalheh  (p.  32 1.  —  For  the  salt-lii!<es  and  convents, 
coinp.  p.  32. 

FaoM  IiehIg  to  Ar.u.siii,  5  M.  —  From  the  station  we  ride  in  a 
N.  direction  to  tlic  prettily  situated  village  of  Belug  and  thence  to 
the  N.W.  across  deserts  and  fields  to  (ca.  I'/olir.)  *Abusir,  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  Taposiris  Magna.  The  remains  of  this  town, 
which  lay  on  the  plain,  are  very  scanty.  The  Egyptian  Te^Q'LE, 
however,  situated  on  a  limestone  ridge  rising  from  the  seashore,  is 
in  good  preservation  as  far  as  its  enclosing  walls  are  concerned.  To 
judge  from  the  Greek  name  of  the  place,  it  was  probably  dedicated 
to  Osiris.  The  sanctuary  lay  from  E.  to  W.  and  was  entered  by  a 
handsome  pylon,  which,  like  the  rest  of  the  walls,  is  built  of  blocks 
of  limestone.  In  the  interior  of  each  of  the  two  towers  is  an  ancient 
stairway;  from  the  top  we  enjoy  a  magnificent  *View  of  the  blue 
sea,  the  desert,  and  the  fertile  land  in  the  distance.  The  pylon  is 
adjoined  by  the  temple,  which  was  surrounded  by  lofty  walls  and 
had  a  length  of  295  ft.  The  rooms  in  the  interior  are  destroyed.  — 
A  few  minutes  to  the  N.  of  the  temple  lie  the  ruins  of  a  Totocr, 
probably  a  lighthouse  of  the  Roman  period.  The  rocks  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood contain  many  quarries  and  Roman  tombs,  and  near  the 
temple  a  bath  has  been  excavated  which  deserves  a  visit. 

The  Railway  runs  on  from  Behig  to  (B.'Ji/a  M.)  Gherbamyat, 
with  extensive  deposits  of  gypsum,  and  (401/0  ^^-^  Hammdm  {i.e. 
'bath'),  where  the  caravans  from  the  W.  renew  their  supply  of  water. 
Next  comes  a  lonely  region.  —  45'/2  ^r.  Rouessdte  ( Ilueisat).  —  Near 
(53  M.)  El-Omaied  (Amtid)  the  last  lighthouse  on  the  Egyptian  coast 
is  visible  on  the  right;  on  the  left  rises  the  hill  of  I'mia  el-'Aish 
(475  ft.).  —  Beyond  El-Omaied  the  line  intersects  a  desert  tract  that 
stretches  for  31  miles.  671/0  M.  Alamein.  85  M.  'Abd  er-Rahmdn ; 
on  the  hill  rises  the  conspicuous  tower  of  the  mosque  (view) ;  on  the 
right  lies  tlie  sea.  —  9IV2  M.  Ghazal.  —  1021/)  M.  Ed-Daba',  the 
ancient  Zepliirium,  was  the  last  station  of  the  railway  in  1913.  The 
line  is  being  prolonged  via  (I291/2  M.)  BTr  Fuka  and  S7di  el-Haygag 
to  Mirsn  Matruli,  a  seaport  (spongc-flsherles)  witli  a  new  mosque 
and  a  Greek  church.  This  was  the  ancient  Paraetonium,  whence 
Alexander  the  Great  marched  to  the  oasis  of  Jupiter  .\mmon  (p.  378). 
From  Mirsa  .Matruh  it  is  intended  to  carry  on  tlie  railway  via  Sidi 
berani  to  Solium.,  which  was  occupied  by  Egypt  in  1911. 


30      Route  -2.  ItOSKTTA. 

5.  Excursion  to  Abukir  and  Kosetta. 
Railway  to  (44  M.)  Roseita  in  2'/i-23/i  hrs.  (two  trains  daily;  fare 
34  pias.);  to  Abukir  in  45-47  min.  from  Sidi  Gaber  (fare  4  pias. ;  day  re- 
turn-ticket 6  pias.)-  —  Tliose  who  wish  to  combine  a  visit  to  tbe  temple 
of  Serapis  at  Abukir  with  the  excursion  to  Rosetta  fhould  take  the  first 
train  in  the  morning  from  Sidi  Gaber  to  Mamura  and  go  on  thence  by 
the  next  train  to  Roseita  (see  below). 

As  far  as  (4  M.)  Stdl  Gaber  (p.  25)  the  train  follows  the  line  to 
Cairo  (p.  31),  from  which  it  then  diverges  to  tlie  left,  passing  the 
various  stations  at  Uamleli  (conip.  p.  20)  and  afterwards  crossinK 
the  desert.  10  M.  El-Mandara,  the  ancient  Taposiris  Pcirva;  '^j^  M. 
to  the  S.  rises  the  lull  of  KCnn  ct-Tcrbdn.  commanding  an  exten- 
sive view.  —  103/4  M.  Montaza,  with  a  khedivial  cliateau.  The  train 
now  skirts  the  edge  of  the  fertile  region.  —  I21/2  M.  Mamura,  the 
junction  for  Abukir  and  Rosetta  (to  the  Serapis  Temple,  see  helow). 

14'/2  M.  Abukir  or  Alu  Qir  (Santi's  AdmiraL  Nelson  Hottl),  a  vil- 
lage with  a  shallow  harbour,  has  become  a  favourite  summer-resort 
and  contains  the  villas  of  many  rich  Alexatidrians.  It  is  famous  for 
the  'Battle  of  the  Nile'  (Aug.  ist,  1798),  in  which  the  British  fleet 
under  Nelson  signally  defeated  tlie  French,  destroying  thirteen  of 
their  seventeen  vessels.  On  July  2oth,  1799,  Bonaparte  repulsed  the 
Turkish  army  here  ;  and  on  March  8th,  1801,  Sir  IJalph  Ahercromby 
defeated  the  remnants  of  the  French  army  and  compelled  the  eva- 
cuation of  Egypt  (comp.  p.  27). 

On  the  shore  of  the  semicircular  bay  of  Abukir  are  several  small 
forts,  and  on  the  promontory  rises  a  lighthouse. 

Abukir  is  probably  the  ancient  Bukiris.  —  In  the  vicinity  lay  the 
ancient  city  ofCanopus,  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Alexandrians,  who  there 
celebrated  the  wildest  orgies.  The  resemblance  of  the  name  to  that  of 
Canobus  or  Canopu^,  the  helmsman  of  Menelaus,  gave  rise  to  the  Greek 
tradition  that  that  pilot  was  interred  here.  The  most  considerable  ruins, 
with  remain'*  of  .sculptures,  are  to  be  found  near  the  fort  of  Taufikiyeh, 
on  the  W.  Hurried  travellers  may  follow  the  railway  to  Abukir  from  the 
station  of  Mamiira  (see  above)  for  about  -/a  M.  and  then  from  the  end  of 
the  village  (donkey  obtainable)  make  straight  for  the  fort.  About  320  yds. 
to  the  W.  of  the  latter  (1  M.  to  the  W.  of  Abukir),  in  a  hollow  on  an 
estate  belonging  to  Prince  Omar  Tussun,  lie  tlie  remnants  of  a  llonian 
2'ctnple  of  Serapis,  probably  the  famous  sanctuary  of  this  god  fit  Ganopus, 
which  was  visited  bv  many  pilgrims  in  search  of  health.  For  the  Decree 
of  Cauopu?,  see  p.  8S. 

18  M.  El-  Tarh.  The  train  traverses  the  narrow  neck  of  land  be- 
tween Lake  Edku  (area  ca.  104  sq.  M.)  and  the  Mediterranean.  — 
21  M.  El-Ma'dhjfh  (Madia),  near  the  former  Canopic  mouth  of  tiie 
Nile.  —  29  M.  Edku ;  the  village  lies  to  the  left  on  a  hill.  —  06  M. 
Bufdi  (Boseill). 

44  M.  Rosetta  (Hotel  R'jyal),  Arabic  Rashul  (a  Coptic  name), 
with  14,300  inhab.,  almost  exclusively  Arabs,  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile  (Far'  el-Gliarhi),  the  ancient  Bolbitinic 
arm  (p.  Ixvii).  During  the  middle  ages  and  in  more  recent  times 
its  commercial  prosperity  was  considerable,  until  the  construction 
of  the  Mabmudiyeh  Canal  (p.  15)  diverted  its  trade  to  Alexandna. 


DAMAN HL)R.  3.  Haute.     31 

Numerous  antique  marble  columus  are  built  into  the  houses.  The 
spacious  Mosque  ofSakhlun  also  is  embellished  with  many  mediifival 
columns.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  close  to  the  river,  lies  the 
Mosque  of  Mohammed  el-'Ahbasi,  with  a  tasteful  minaret.  An  attrac- 
tive excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Mosque  of  Abu  Mandiir,  to  the 
S.  of  the  town,  beside  the  river;  Tisitors  should  go  by  boat  if  the 
wind  is  favourable,  otherwise  by  donkey  (l/o  lir-;  6  pias.).  The  hill 
of  the  same  name  commands  a  fine  view.  —  The  fortifications  to 
the  N.  of  the  town  are  not  shown  except  by  permission  of  the  com- 
mandant. The  famous  Rosetta  Stone  [p.  cxxvi)  was  discovered  in 
Fort  St.  Julien. 

From  Kosetta  to  Damietta  via  Lake  Burlus,  see  p.  177. 

From  Rosetta  the  train  returns  to  Bustli  (p.  30)  and  thence  runs 
to  tlie  S.E.  to  (43Yi  M.)  Edfina.  on  the  Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile. 
Hence  a  light  railway  runs  via  'Atf  to  Damanhur  (see  p.  32). 


3.    From  Alexandria  to  Cairo. 

130  51.  Kailwat  (comp.  p.  xvii).  Express  train  in  3-3'/'2)  oi'dinary  train 
in  6-6-Vi  lirs.  (fares  88,  44  pias.).  —  Travellers  sUouliI  engage  the  commi.s- 
.'ionnaire  of  the  hotel  or  one  of  the  tourist-agents  (comp.  p.  9.1  to  assist  in 
booking  their  luggage.  —  The  Alexandria  and  Cairo  line,  the  first  railway 
constructed  in  the  East,  was  made  under  .Sa'id  Pasha  in  18f>0. 

The  railway  crosses  the  Farkha  Canal  (p.  20)  and  soon  comes 
into  sight  of  Lake  Marcotis  (p.  27),  the  water  of  which  washes  the 
railway-embankment  at  places  during  the  period  of  the  inunda- 
tion. Beyond  Hadra  ( p.  20 )  and  Sldi  Gdher  (p.  25)  our  line  diverges 
to  the  right  from  that  to  Rosetta  (p.  30).  "We  cross  the  MahmiLdhjeh 
Canal  [p.  15)  by  a  drawbridge,  and  the  triangular  sails  of  the  boats 
which  appear  above  its  banks  enable  its  course  to  be  traced  for 
quite  a  distance.  Cotton-fields  now  appear  to  the  left.  —  17  M. 
Kafr  ed-Dawdr.  In  the  vicinity  are  the  ruins  of  Kom  el-Gheh, 
marking  the  site  o(Schedia,  the  Nile-harbour  of  ancient  Alexandria. 

A  LiGUT  Railway  diverging  at  Kafr  ed-Dawar  (two  trains  daily  in  each 
direction)  serves  a  number  of  villages  on  the  W.  m;ir\;in  of  the  Delta  and 
rejiiins   the  main  line  at  Damanliiir  (see  below). 

We  pass  several  unimportant  villages,  with  the  clay-built  grey 
houses,  crowned  by  cupolas,  which  are  so  characteristic  a  feature 
of  the  whole  Delta  landscape.  —  28  M.  Abu  Jlommos. 

38  m.  Damanhtir  (liujfet),  with  38,752  inliab.,  was  the  ancient 
Kgyptian  Tinie-en-H'ir  (city  of  llorus)  and  the  Roman  HermopoUs 
I'arva.  It  is  now  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Beheireh  (p.  xlvii), 
which  extends  from  the  Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile  to  the  Libyan  desert. 
The  town  lies  on  an  eminence,  with  the  towers  of  a  church  rising  from 
among  its  houses.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  small  mills  for  the  se- 
paration of  the  cotton  from  the  seeds.  The  Arab  cemetery  lies  close 
to  the  railway. 


32    Route  3.  WADI  NA'l'RUN.  From  Alexandria 

Fkom  Damanhur  to  Meiiallet  RCh,  46  M.,  railway  in  2-2'/4  lirs.  (fare  36 
Bias.).  —  Beyond  SanhUr  and  Rahmaniyeh  (Jiahmania)  the  train  crosses  the 
Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile.  —  13  M.  Desiik  (Desuq)^  a  town  with  TOOOinhab., 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Rosetta  arm.  A  large  fair  (mulid)  is  held  here 
in  Aug.  or  Sept.  in  honour  of  the  local  saint,  Seiyid  Ibrahim  ed-Desiiki 
(p.  xcii),  the  fuunder  of  an  order  of  dervishes.  —  Farther  on  we  cross 
several  canals  and  pass  the  station  of  S/iahbds.  —  At  Kalin  (Kalline,  Qallin) 
diverges  the  branch-line  for  Sberbin  (p.  175).  —  Then  come  Shin  (Chine^ 
p.  33),  Koti'ir  (Qohir ;  p.  33),  and  Konaisseh  (Konayesseh.  Konaiesa).  —  46  M. 
Mehallel  R-Cth  lies  on  the  railway  from  Tanta  to  Jlansura  (p.  174). 

Damanhur  is  also  the  starting-point  of  several  Light  Railways:  1.  To 
Teh  el-BdrHd  (see  below)  via  Dclingat  and  Tod  (which  are  also  connected 
by  another  line).  —  2.  To  Teh  el-BdrHd  via  Shubrakhit  (Hot.  du  Nil,  kept 
by  a  Greek;  2746  inhab.),  on  the  Rosetta  arm  of  the  Nile  (branch  to  Miniel 
Saldme/i).^  and  Shandid  (see  below).  —  3.  To  Edjina  (p.  31)  via  ZarkHn  (Zarqun) 
and  'At/.  At  'Atf  the  MahmUdiyeh  Canal  (p.  1.5)  diverges  from  the  Nile ;  and 
on  it  barges  and  small  steamers  maintain  communication  with  Ale.xandria. 
The  machines  which  here  impel  the  waters  of  the  Nile  towards  Alexandria 
are  very  striking.  —  4.   To  Kafr  ed-Daicdr,  see  p.  31. 

From  Shubrakhit  (see  above)  we  may  visit  the  ruins  of  Sd  el-Hagar 
(Sais,  p.  33)  by  boat  or  on  donkey-back  in  I-I1/2  hr.  In  the' latter  case 
we  cross  the  Rosetta  arm  and  follow  the  E.  bank. 

48  M.  Saft  el-MelUk.  About  3  M.  to  the  S.E.,  near  NeMreh  (Ne- 
beirah),  on  the  Canopic  arm  of  the  Nile,  lie  the  ruins  of  Naucratis, 
a  Greek  commercial  city,  founded  by  Amasis.  The  ruins  do  not 
repay  a  visit. 

531/2  M.  Teh  el-Barud  (liai  el-BaruiJ ;  buffet)  is  a  village  with 
a  Ijrge  mound  of  ruins. 

Fkom  Teh  f,l-Bae6d  to  Cairo,  76  M.,  branch-railway  along  the  W. 
uiar;;in  of  the  Nile  delta  in  3-3V4  hrs.  (three  trains  daily).  -^  Q'/i  M.  K6m 
el-Hamddah;  14'^  M-  Wdl'ed  (Waged).  To  the  right  extends  the  Libyan 
Desert.  —  Beyond  (I9V2M.)  Teiriyeh  (Teiria)  the  train  skirts  the  Khaldlbeh 
Canal,  which  diverges  from  the  Rosetta  arm.  —  31  M.  Eafr  DdOd,  a  vil- 
lage with 3000  inhabitants.  —  381/2 M.  Khaldlbeh{\o  Bir  Hooker,  see  below).  — 
451/2  M  Warddn.  with  5000  inhabitants.  The  next  stations  are  Aa«d  (Qatto), 
El-Afiindshi  (p.  121 1,  and  Usitn  (Onssime.  Ausim),  the  imcient' LeiopnlU.  — 
Beyond  (741/2  M.)  Embdheh  we  cross  the  Nile  to  (76  M.)  Cairo  (see  p.  143). 

Light  Railways  run  from  Teh  el-Barud  to  Damanhllr  via  Dclingat  or 
Shuhrakhii  (see  above)  and  to  Ka/r  'Awdiieh  via  /Shandid  (sec  above). 

From  Khatdiheh  (see  above)  a  private  railway  of  the  Egyptian  Salt  & 
Soda  Co.  lead.i  to  (34  M. ;  3  hrs.)  Jiir  Hooker,  on  the  E.  edge  of  the  Wadi 
Natrun  ('Natron  valley').  This  valley  (ca.  20  M.  long)  in  the  Libyan  desert 
contains  ten  salt  lakes,  which  are  supposed  to  be  connected  with  the  Nile 
and  which  dry  up  almost  entirely  in  summer.  These  lakes  and  the  sur- 
rounding soil  yield  salt  and  soda  (natron),  which  are  used  in  Egypt  for 
bleaching  and  in  the  manufacture  of  soap  and  glass.  The  Wadi  Natrun 
is  celebrated  for  its  hermitages  and  convents,  which  were  established  here 
as  early  as  the  4th  cent,  and  had  great  influence  in  the  development  of 
Christianity.  Only  four  of  them  are  still  inhabited,  and  these  are  most 
conveniently  visited  from  Bir  Hooker.  Close  to  Bir  Hooker  are  the  Deir 
es-Surydn  ('convent  of  the  Syrians")  and,  10  min.  from  it,  the  Ueir  Abu  Bshoi 
('convent  of  St.  Pshoi') ;  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Deir  Baramus.,  while  the 
Deir  Abti  Makdr  ('convent  of  St.  Macarius')  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  the  valley. 
—  From  Bir  Hooker  to  the  City  of  St.  Menas,  see  p.  29. 

The  line  skirts  an  irrigation-canal  of  considerable  size,  an 
offshoot  of  the  Khatatbeh  Canal  (see  above),  from  which  numerous 
small  branches  radiate.  The  fellahin  may  be  observed  raising  water 
from  the  canals  by  means  of  Archimedean  screws  or  by  large  wheels 


to  (  airo. 


TANTA.  3.  lioule.     3o 


(sakiyeli)  hung  with  buckets  or  scoops  ((;onip.  p.  Ixxii)-  The  cul- 
tivated land  becomes  richer.  Beyond  Taupkiyeh(Taufiqia)  the  train 
crosses  the  Khatatbeh  Canal  and  an  iron  bridge  over  the  Rosetta  arm 
of  the  Nile  (fine  view  to  the  leftl,  and  reaches  — 

641/2-^1-  Kafr  ez-ZaA^kt  (Buffet),  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile. 
The  town  (10,000  iuhab.)  carries  on  a  busy  trade  in  grain,  cotton, 
and  other  products  of  the  Delta,  and  contains  large  cotton-ware- 
houses and  mills  for  the  separation  of  the  cotton  from  the  seeds. 

A  Light  Railway,  to  the  N.  of  the  maiu  line,  runs  from  Kafr  ez-Zaiyat 
o  Tanta  via  Bermd  (9000  inhab. ;  see  below). 

We  cross  several  canals,  enlivened  by  numerous  ships. 

76  -M.  Ta,ntB.( Buffet).  —  Hotels.  Huleldes  Pyramides;  UOt.  Belle  Gr'ece; 
Dot.  Kill- lUvi'al;  Xew  Hotel.    The  hotels  send  dragomans  to  meet  the  trains. 

British  (  'ossular  Agent,  B.  Ei  ha.  —  Banks.  Agencies  of  the  Cridil  Lyon- 
nais,  Anylo-£'jyptian  Bank.,  national  Bank  of  Egypt,  and  Deutsche  Orienlbank. 

Anglican  Chikch  SeevickS  in  winter. 

Tanta,  on  the  Kased  (Qised)  Canal,  the  thriving  capital  of  the 
province  of  Gharblyeh,  which  lies  betw^een  the  Rosetta  and  Damietta 
arms  of  the  Nile,  has  apopulation  of  54,437  and  possesseslarge  public 
buildings,  churches,  bazaars,  a  large  American  mission  hospital  for 
women  and  children,  an  qxtensive  palace  of  the  Khedive,  and  a 
small  museum  of  antiquitiefe. 

'J'he  iMosque  of  the  Seirid  Ahmed  el-Bedawi,  the  most  popular 
saint  in  Egypt  (p.  scii),  wno  was  born  in  the  12th  cent,  at  Fez  and 
settled  at  Tanta  after  a  pijgrimage  to  iMecca,  is  a  handsome  domed 
building,  erected  by  'Abbjs  1.  and  Isma'il  Pasha  on  the  site  of  the 
original  building,  which  (fated  from  1276.  The  large  forecourt  con- 
tains the  basin  for  ablutions.  Europeans  are  often  denied  access  to 
the  interior.  Tiie  catafalque  of  the  saint  is  covered  with  red  velvet 
adorned  with  gold  embroidery  and  is  enclosed  by  a  handsome  bronze 
railing.  Connected  with  the  mosque  are  a  college,  the  largest  but 
one  in  Egypt  (2026  students  and  99  professors  in  1911 ;  comp. p.  55), 
and  two  small  schools  i^mt'dreseh).  The  sebil,  or  tank,  with  the 
small  school  above  it,  in  the  space  adjoining  the  mosque,  is  older. 

From  Tanta  to  MehaVe'  Rdh.  Matifava,  and  Damietta,  see  K.  10. 

From  Tasta  to  Cairo.  66'/j  M-,  branch-railway  in  3V2-3V4  hrs.  —  The 
line  runs  to  the  .•>.  to  (17V'.M-)  SItibin  el-Kvm,  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
MenHfiy^h,  one  of  the  moit  fertile  regions  in  the  Delta.  —  25V2  M.  MenHf,  a 
town  with  22,316  inhab.,  if  the  central  point  of  the  province.  —  38'/'^  M. 
AshmUn.  —  At  (52  M.)  Barra/e  we  join  the  route  to  Cairo  mentioned  on  p.  121. 

Tanta  is  also  tlie  sta-ting-point  of  several  Light  Railways:  1.  Via 
Bermd  (see  above)  and  Basydn  Rigulateur  to  Shin  (p.  32),  and  thence  via 
Sakha  (liranch  to  Kafr  e.'-h-Sheikh,  ji.  175,  and  Sidi  Salem)  to  Mehalleh 
el-Kuhra  (p.  174).  |Froin  Basvun  Reyulateur  a  branch-line  runs  to  BdivAn 
(9000  inhah.)  and  Sd  drjagar  (see  below).]  —  2.  Via  Kot6r  (p.  32)  to 
Mthalleh  el-Kuhru  (p.  174).  —  3.  To  Kafr  ez-Zaiydt,  see  above. 

About  li2  31.  to  th<  X.  of  .Sd  el-Ilagar  (see  above;  accommodation  at 
the  'Onideh's,  or  chieftoiagislrates)  lie  the  inconsiderable  ruins  of  Sais, 
the  resilience  of  PsamAetichos  I.  and  the  kings  of  the  26th  Dynasty  and 
one  of  the  centres  of  lie  cult  of  Neith. 

80  M.  Defra  (Dira).  —  The  train  crosses  the  Kased  Canal  and, 
beyond  the  station  a  Birkct  es-Saba  (Btit.  Cons.  Agent,  A.W.  Mur- 


34    Route  3.  BENE  A. 

docli;  branch-line  to  Zifteli,  see  p.  174),  (he  Bahr  Shibin  (p.  175), 
tlie  ancient  Sebennytic  arm  of  the  Nile  and  now  the  main  arm  of 
the  Damietta  branch.  A  number  of  cotton-cleaning  mills  afford  an 
indication  of  the  wealth  of  the  country.  —  93  M.  Kuesna  (Quesna). 
Near  Benha,  on  the  Damietta  arm  of  the  Nile,  is  a  large  khedivial 
palace,  where  'Abbas  I.  (p.  cxxii)  died  in  1854  (probably  by  vio- 
lence). —  The  train  crosses  the  Damietta  branch  of  the  Nile  by  a 
large  iron  bridge. 

lOO'/j  M.  Benha,  with  20,000  inhab.,  is  the  capital  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Kalydbtyeli  and  the  junction  for  the  railway  to  Zakazik  and 
the  Suez  Canal  (p.  181).  It  is  noted  for  its  oranges,  mandarins,  aTid 
grapes.    A  considerable  market  is  held  here  on  Mondays. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Benha,  not  far  from  the  town  and  to  the  left  of  tlie 
railway,  are  the  insignificant  ruins  of  tie  ancient  Alhribis,  now  uainod 
K6m  el-Atrib.  —  A  branch-line  (five  trains  daily)  leads  to  (8  M.)  Mil  Berah, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Damietta  arm,  ani  light  railways  run  to  MumHra 
and  the  Barrage  du  Nil  (see  \>.  ITiJ). 

Beyond  Benha  the  train  crosses  the  large  Rayah  et-Taufiki.  Near 
( lOSl/o  M.)  Tukh  or  Tukh  el-Mala^  (light  railway  to  Beltan  and 
Shibin  el-Kanatir,  see  p.  171)  the  mountains  enclosing  the  Nile 
valley  become  visible  in  the  distance.  —  113V2  M.  Kaha  (Qaha). 

120'/o  M.  Kalyub  (Calioub,  Qalitb),  a  district -capital  with 
16,793  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  branth-lines  to  Zakazik  (p.  171) 
and  to  Tanta  (see  p.  33)  via  the  Barrage  du  Nil  (p.  122 1.  The  out- 
lines of  the  pyramids  then  begin  to  loom  in  the  distance  on  the 
right.    The  track  crosses  the  Sharkdw7ijehjSharqawla)  Canal. 

The  Libyan  chain  becomes  more  distinctly  visible,  and  we 
observe  also  the  Mokattam  range  with  tlib  citadel,  and  the  mosque 
of  Mohammed  Ali  with  its  slender  minuets.  Gardens  and  villas 
come  in  sight.  To  the  left  lie  the  site  ♦f  the  ruins  of  Heliopolis 
(the  obelisk  of  which  is  not  seen  from  tlie  Railway),  Matariyeh  with 
its  sycamores,  Kubbeh,  the  residence  of  thcJihedive,  and  the  suburb 
of  'Abbasiyeb,  while  on  the  right  we  perc^ve  the  long  Shari'  esh- 
Shubra  (p.  78). 

130  M.  Cairo  (central  station),  see  p. 


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t 


(?' 


wt 


^ 'Hospital^   '^  vj- 


1^^ 


L 
sTlotrl" 


^^^-^f  e^Ewt^^^ji^  ^ 


Musee 
i"ivpliou    ;       ^"  Mills 


K  AS  R 

"   Champ 

E  :n  -  N  i  L 


S  oulf  imaiiBa  si  It 


1  --^Bc 


„-ll 


C-^cnncs     do  Mars    \,  T  '        < 
'ft 


U 


^V; 


^.  i>£ 


\  lf;uni'< 


ctv 


rKA  S=^  .  ^  B  D  - 

DOU^BA';|lA  Ti'i^auxpi.lc, 


35 


4.  Cairo. 

Plan  ok  Caiko.  The  cnmmoncst  word  for  a  street  J9  fyhdri'  (Freneli 
Chareh),  meaning  a  main  street,  avenue,  or  boulevard;  other  words  used 
a,ve  Siklceh  (street),  Berh  (touiI,  also  caravan-tvack),  //<»•«  (lane,  also  quarter 
of  a  town),  and  'At/a  (blind  alley).  Middn  is  a  square.  —  Since  the  British 
occupation  the  names  of  the  streets  have  been  written  up  at  the  corners 
in  Arabic,  accompanied  by  Knglisb  or  French  transliterations  on  a  some- 
what inexact  system  (p.  xxviii).  Our  plan  follows  this  transliteration  in 
general,  correcting,  however,  the  more  obvious  defects  (e.g.  the  English 
'c«'  is  represented,  as  in  the  text,  by  '»').  Some  of  the  old  French  names, 
eonsecrated  by  usage,  have  l)een  retained. 


a.  Railway  Stations.    Hotels  and  Pensions.     Restaurants  and  Cafes. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Centkal  Station  (Gare  Oeutrale,  PI.  IJ,1;  Bufl'et), 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  12  miu.  from  the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden,  for 
Alexandria^  Port  Sa'id,  Suez,  the  whole  of  the  Delta,  and  Upper  Egypt.  — 
2.  Pont  I-imCn  Station  or  Gakk  dk  Matauiteh,  beside  the  last,  for  the 
line  to  Shibin  el- Kaadlir  (coinp.  p.  120)  via  Dcmivddsh  (for  'Abbdsiyeh), 
Kubbeh,  ZciiOn,  Mtiidrvjeh  (Old  Ueliopolis),  El-Mwg,  etc.  —  3.  Bab  el-LOk 
Station  lOare  de  Bab  el-Loiik;  PI.  B,  O),  for  Ileladn  via  El-Ma'ddi  and  for 
'Ain  cs-Siru  (p.  115).  —  The  hotel-commissionuaircs,  with  their  omnibuses, 
and  representatives  of  the  tourist-agents  (p.  38)  await  the  arrival  of  the  fast 
trains.  I.uiigage  may  lie  entrusted  also  to  the  Arab  porters  with  iiumbereil 
metal  badges  on  tlieir  arms  (trunk  1  pias.,  several  articles  '/^  l''''S-  "^'^cb), 
who  will  conduct  the  traveller  to  the  holel-omiiibus  or  procure  a  cab  for 
him  (tarilT,  sec  p  39).  Heavy  luggage  is  sent  on  to  the  hotel  in  special 
vehicles. 

Hotels  (conip.  p.  ,\viii).  The  leading  hotels  at  Cairo  are  e.Kcellent;  at 
most  of  them  evening  dress  is  de  rigueur  at  late  dinner.  Even  the  tecond- 
class  hotels  are  well  fitted  up,  nearly  all  having  electric  light,  baths,  etc. 
As  all  the  hotels  are  freciuently  full,  especially  in  .Tan,,  Feb.,  and  March, 
it  is  a  wise  precauti(m  to  telegrajdi  for  rooms  from  Alexandria  or  Purl 
.Sa'id,  if  they  have  not  been  engaged  even  sooner.  In  summer  many  of 
the  hotels  are  closed  and  the  others  lower  their  prices.  Children  and 
servants  pay  half-price. 

In  Vie  Int-rior  of  the  2'ow7t:  '■'Sukpiieard's  Hotel  (PI.  B,  S;  owned  by 
the  Kgyplian  Hotels  Co.),  Shari'  Kamel  8,  E/.bekiyeh,  with  400  rooms 
(180  with  bathrooms),  separate  suites  for  families,  a  famous  terrace  (band 
on  Sal.),  };ardcn,  restaurant,  bar,  post  &  telegraph  oflice,  etc.,  i)ens. 
from  80  pias,  open  all  the  year  round;  -Savot  Hotel  (1*1.  B,  4;  owned 
by  the  George  Nungovich  Co.  Ltd.),  Midan  Suleiman  Basha,  a  fashionable 
house,  with  2oU  rooms  (many  with  balhrooins),  central  heating,  private 
suites,  and  a  high-class  restaurant,  frequented  by  British  oflicers  and  ofli- 
cials,  pens,  from  90  pias.;  "Hotel  Semikamis  (PI.  A,  .0;  owned  by  the 
Egyptian  Hotels  i:o.),  Ka.sr  ed-Dubara,  (m  the  Nile,  a  fashionable  house, 
with  250  rooms  (SO  with  bathrooms),  central  healing,  bar,  post- office, 
garden,  terrace  on  the  roof  (Que  view),  etc.,  open  Nov.  20th-April  20th. 
pens,  from  S'J  pius.  ;  "Hotel  Continental  (Pl.B,  C,  3;  owned  by  the  same 
company  as  the  Savoy),  Shari'  Kamel  2,  in  the  Place  de  rOpera,  with 
300  rooms  (60  with  bathrooms),  fainily-snites,  terrace,  grill-room  (dcj.  20, 
D.  30  pias. ;  band),  pens,  from  TO,  in  April-Kov.  from  6(3  pias.,  many  English 
vi.sitors.  —  'Hotel  d'Angleteuue  (PI.  B,  3;  same  owners  as  the  Savoy), 
Shari'  el-Jlaghrabi,  a  quiet  family  hotel,  with  100  rooms,  separate  suites, 
terrace,  etc.,  pens,  from  GO  pias.;  "National  Hotel  (PI.  B,  3),  Shalri'  Su- 


36     Houk  4.  CAIRO.  Practical 

leiman  Basba  30,  at  the  coiner  of  the  Sbari'  Oeir  el-l'.euat,  with  150  room.'', 
pens.  60-8U  pias.  —  New  Khedivial  Hotel  (PI.  B,  2),  Shari'  Nubar  Basba  2, 
with  80  rooms,  pens.  50-70  pias.,  well  spoken  of;  Eden  Palace  Hotel 
(PI.  C,  3),  Sbari'  el-Genaineh,  with  126  rooms,  pens,  from  46  pias.,  evening 
dress  optional;  *Villa  Victokia  Peivate  Hotel  (PI.  B,  3),  Shari'  .Shawarbi 
Basba  8,  a  quiet  house  in  a  good  situation,  with  50  rooms,  pens.  60-70, 
April-Nov.  50-60  pias.  —  Hotel  Villa  Nationale,  Shari'  Sbawarbi  Basha  4 
(PI.  B,  3,  4),  with  garden,  pens.  45-.55  pias. ;  Hotel  Bristol  et  du  Nil  (PI.  C, 
2,  3),  Midan  el-Khazindar,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Ezbekiyeh,  with  120  beds,  pens, 
from  65  pias.,  evening  dress  optional  —  Hotel  lifeTKOPOLE  (PI.  B,  C,  3), 
Haret  Zogheb,  near  tbe  Sbari'  el-JIanakb,  with  80  rooms,  pens.  52-60  pias. 
—  Hotel  des  Votagedks  (PI.  B,  2),  Sbari'  Niibar  Basha  10,  with  good 
cuisine,  pens.  45-50  pias.,  Hotel  de  Pakis  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  opposite  Shepheard's 
Hotel,  pens.  40-50  pias.,  both  patronized  by  French  travellers. 

On  the  Gezireh  Island  in  the  Nile  (p.  79) :  Ghezikeh  Palace  Hotel  (same 
proprietors  as  Shepheard's),  a  family  hotel  of  tbe  first  class,  in  a  large 
;.;arden  (band  twice  weekly),  close  to  the  Khedivial  Sporting  Club,  pens, 
from  75  pias. ;  restaurant  at  the  Casino  (see  below). 

In  the  Oasis  of  HeliopoUs  (p.  119):  ''Heliopolis  Palace  Hotel,  a  first- 
class  house  with  modern  equipment,  on  the  electric  railway  mentioned  ou 
p.  39,  with  400  ri'om'i  (2(0  with  bathrooms),  garden,  pavilion,  etc.,  open 
Nov. -April,  pens.  80-120pias.  —  Heliopolis  House,  a  first-class  family  hotel, 
opposite  the  last,  with  60  rooms,  larae  terrace  (concerts),  restaurant,  bar,  etc., 
pens.  40-.50  pias.  —  Pens.  Belle-Vde,  with  33  rooms,  pens.  35-50  pias. 

Near  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  (p.  l'J3) :  'Mena  House  Hotel  (same  pro- 
prietors as  tbe  Savoy),  at  the  terminus  of  the  tramway  to  the  Pyramids  (p.  38, 
No.  14),  with  15'J  rooms,  swimming  and  other  baths,  garden,  grass  golf- 
course,  tennis  courts,  post  and  telegraph  office,  library,  etc.,  open  Oct.  15tb- 
Jlay  1.5tb  ;ind  recommended  to  invalids  (p.  xxii  ;  physician  in  residence); 
pens,  from  66  pias.  The  restaurant  (dej.  at  1  p.m.  20  pias.,  D.  at  7.30  p.m. 
30  pias.)  and  tbe  swimming-bath  are  open  to  non-residents  also ;  regular 
motor-car  services  to  and  from  the  railway  station  (25  min.)  and  the 
town.  Anglican  Church  service  every  Sunday.  —  Sphinx  Hotel.  10  min. 
to  the  S.E.  of  the  terminus  of  the  tramway,  near  the  village  of  Kafr  el- 
Haram  (p.  138),  pens,  from  50  pias. 

Pensions.  Rossmore  House  (Misses  Greenwell  &  Chicnll),  Shari'  el-Madfi- 
begh  15  (PI.  B,  3,  4),  pens.  40-50  pias.;  Cecil  Bouse,  Shari'  el-Bustan  8, 
beside  the  Mohammed  Aly  Club  (PI.  A,  4),  pens.  35  5)  pias.;  Grosvenor 
Souse,  Shari'  Borsah  el-Gedideh  1  and  Shari'  Kasr  en-Nil,  near  the  Savoy 
Hotel  (PI.  B.  4).  pens.  40-60  pias.;  Pens.  Sim'a,  Sbari'  el-MaKhrabi  5  (PI. 
B,  3),  pens.  40  pias.;  Pens.  Nationale,  Shari'  Kasr  en-Nil  34  (PI.  A,  B,  4,  3), 
pens.  45-55  pias.;  Villa  Chatham,  Shari'  el-Bustan  32  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  pens. 
40-50  pias. ;  Pens.  Morisson,  Shari'  Bfllak  9  (PI.  A,  B,  .3),  pens.  40-50  pias.; 
Pens.  Tadey,  same  address,  pens.  30-60  pias.;  Pens.  Ehrlich,  Midan  Suarez 
(Pi.  B,  3),  pens.  2o-35  pias. ;  Pens.  Konig,  Shari' 'Imad  ed-Din;  Pens.  Beige- 
Handcar,  Shari'  Suleiman  Basha  15,  2nd  floor  (PI.  A,  B,  4,  3),  pens.  28  pias. 
incl.  wine. 

Private  Apartments  (mostly  unfurnished)  are  seldom  to  be  obtained 
for  a  shorter  period  than  six  months.  Information  as  to  rooms  may  be 
obtained  at  the  chief  shops  or  from  agents  whose  addresses  may  be  best 
learned  at  the  consulates.  A  sunny  aspect  should  be  chosen  in  winter, 
and  a  detailed  written  contract  invariably  drawn  up.  A  bargain  as  to 
food  may  be  made  with  some  neighbouring  restaurant ;  for  only  those 
conversant  with  the  language  should  attempt  to  keep  house  for  themselves 
with  native  servants. 

Restaurants.  Besides  the  grill-rooms  at  the  best  hotels:  ''St.  Jatnes''s, 
Shari'  Bdlak,   opposite    the    Egyptian    telegraph  office  (p.  37),  dej.  15,  D. 


(p.  79)   formerly 

pavilion,  sumptuously  fitted  up  in  the  oriental  style,  with  a  French  restaur- 
ant (orchestra  4-6  p.m.);  balls  and  symphony  concerts. 


NoUs.  CAIRO.  t.  Route.     37 

Bars  &,  Cafes.  iWw  liar,  Alahroussa  />'«;•,  ('ti/6  K/icUivial,  all  in  the 
Place  (le  I'Opcra;  Splendid  Bar,  Shari'  Kaiiiel ;  Restaitrant-Bar  High  Life, 
Shari' Wagh  el-15irket  42;  Brasserie  Urquell,  Parisiana,  both  in  the  Shari' 
Elfi  Bey,  near  Sliepheard's  Gai'den.  —  CafiJs  in  tlie  Enr()i)ean  style,  at  which 
beer  and  other  lievorascs  arc  obtained,  abound  in  and  near  the  Ezbekiyeh  ; 
none  of  them  are  suitalde  for  ladies.  —  CAFiis  Conckkts  (for  gentlemen 
only):  Sphinx  Bar,  Shari'  Biilak,  with  grill-room;  St.  James'' s  Restaurant 
(p.  36);  Cafi  Egypiien,  opposite  Shcpheard's  Hotel,  with  female  orchestra; 
Eldorado,  in  the  E.  part  of  the  Shari''  Wagh  el-Birket,  under  the  colon- 
nades. —  The  multitudinous  Arab  Cai'i>s  are  small  and  dirty  and  hardly 
worth  visiting.  t'olTee  in  the  Arabian  stvle  is  easily  obtained  elsewhere.  — 
Bodegas.  In  the  U6tel  Royal  (PI.  C,2),  Shari'  Wagh  el-Birket;  New  Bodega, 
opposite  Cook'.-i  Agency  (\>.  .38),  with  t;ood  cuisine;  Cairo  Bodega,  Shari'  Elfi 
Bey  7.  —  foNKECTiouicES.  Sault,  Shari'  Biilak;  Qroppi,  Sliari'  ol-Jlanakh; 
LeIirenhraiKs,  Sh.Hri''  Ka.sr  en-i<il  22,  with  garden;  Maison  Dor<'e,  Shari'  el- 
Manakh.  —  Bakers.  Kiensle  <t  Simoi/ds,  Shari'  el-Maghrabi;  Le/irenhravss, 
see  above. 

Beer.  Restaurant  Bavaria  (p.  36);  Dippmann  (p.  36);  Flasch,  lli'dan 
ITalim  B;isha;  Brasserie  Pilsen,  Shari'  Elfi  Bey:  Bayrische  Bierhalle,  witli 
bar,  Shari'  Biil.-ll;. 

b.  Consuls.  Police.  Banks.  Post  &  Telegraph  Offices.  Tourist  Ag-ents 
Steamboat  Offices. 

Consulates  icomp.  p.  x.\).  BuiTisn  Aoekct  (PI.  A,  5),  Viscount  Kitchener 
of  Khartoum,  diplomatic  agent  and  consul-general,  Shari' el- Walda  3,  Ka.sr 
ed-Duliara  ;  A  ]i.  Alban,  consul,  Shari'  Gami'  esh-Sherkes  (PI.  B,  4),  near  llie 
Midan  Suleiman  Basha;  G.  G.  Kno.v,  vice-consul.  —  Vnited  St.\tes  Agency 
(PI.  A,  5),  0.  Arnold,  diplomatic  agent  and  consul-general,  Shriri'  Lazoghli, 
Kasr  ed-Duliara;  vice-consuls,  P.  Knabenshue  and  L.  Belrose.  There  arc 
also  Austrian,  Belgian,  Dutch,  German,  Krench,  and  other  consular  re- 
presentatives. 

Sudan  Agent.     Major  L.  0.  F.  Slack,  &^Aa.n  Agency  (PI.  A,  B,  5). 

The  Police  iZabtiyeh,  I'l.  I),  4;  p.  62).  which  is  under  a  military  or- 
ganization, con.-^ists  of  about  S'X)  officials,  who  arc  very  obliging  to  strangers. 
There  are  some  European  niorabers  of  the  force,  chiefly  Italians.  The  town 
is  divided  into  districts,  each  with  a  police  station  (Karakol). 

Bankers.  B'lnque  Impf.riale  Ottomans  (PI.  B,  3),  Shiiri'  'Jmad  cd-Din  13; 
Anglo-Egyptian  Bank  (PI.  C.  3).  National  Bank  of  Egypt  (PI.  B,  4),  Shari' 
Kasr  en-Nil  ;  Cridit  Lyonnais  (PI.  0,  ill,  Shari'  el-Bosta  (office-hours  9-12  &. 
3-5);  Thos.  Cook  d-  Son  (p.  38)  ;  Deutsche  Oriinlbank  \P\.  B.  3),  Shari'  el- 
Manakh  23;  Banque  dAthhies  (PI.  B,  4),  Shari'  Sheikh  Abu'l  Seba'a.  — 
iMoNEr  Changers  (comp.  p.  xv).  The  neces.sary  small  change  can  always 
be  obtained  from  the  money-changers  in  the  streets,  from  the  hotel-portier, 
or  in  making  purchases  in  the  shops  or  at  the  post-office.  The  coins  re- 
ceived should  always  be  carefully  scrutinized. 

Post  Office  fPl.  C,  3;  p.  51).  at  the  corner  of  the  Shari'  Tahir  and 
the  Sbarl'  ol-Baidak.  The  office  on  the  street,  open  daily  from' 7.30  a.m. 
to  9.30  p.m.,  sells  postage -stamps  only.  The  inner  office  is  open  from 
9  a.m.  till  6.30  p.m.  (with  a  short  interruption  about  12.30  p.m.)  and  from 
8.45  to  9.30  p.m.  for  the  night  express  to  Isma'illyeh.  Lists  of  the  mails 
by  steamer  to  Europe,  etc.,  are  exhibited  daily  in  the  vestibule.  The  ar- 
rival of  Registered  Letters,  etc.,  is  intimated  to  the  addressee  by  a  notice, 
which  must  be  produced,  bearing  the  stamp  of  the  hotel  or  the  endorse- 
ment of  a  well-known  resident,  wlien  the  letters  are  applied  for.  There  are 
several  branch  [>ost-officKS  in  the  town  ;  also  at  some  of  the  hotels.  Letter- 
boxes  at  all  the  hotels. 

Telegraph  Offices.  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.  (PI.  B,  3;  British),  Shari' 
'Imad  ed-Uin.  —  Egyptian  Telegraph  (PI.  B,  3),  Shari'  Bulak,  at  the  corner 
of  tbe  Shari'  'Imad  ed-Din.  —  Branch-offices  in  the  Muski.  a  Biilak,  and 
in  (lezireh. 


38     Routed.  CAIRO.  Practical 

Tourist  Agents.  Thus.  Cook  d-  , Son  (1*1.  1!,  2,  3j,  SliiVii'  Kaiuol  G,  besiJe 
Shepheard's  Hotel;  Hamburg  -  American  Line.,  at  tbe  Hotel  Continental; 
Frank  C.  Clark,  near  Shepheard's  Hotel;  Z>.  E.  Miiiiari  (comp.  p.  418),  Shari' 
Kamel  5;  Cox''s  International  Aijcncy.^  Shari'  'Imad  ed-Din ;  Cairo  Express 
Agency.,  Shari'  cl-31aglirabi.  —  Compagnie  Internationale  des  ]V(igon-Lits,  a 
the  Central  Slation. 

Steamboat  Offices.  Ilainhurrj  it  Anglo-American  Nile  Co..,  at  the  Hotel 
Continental;  Peninsnlar  iV  Oriental  Co.,  White  Star  JAne,  Union- Castle  Line, 
at  Cook^s  (see  above);  North  German  Lloyd  and  Honmanian  lioyal  Mail 
Line,  Tlace  de  TOpera  3  (Storzing);  German  East  African  Line.  Shari'  el- 
Bosla  3  (Fi.K  &  David);  Austrian  Lloyd,  Shari'  el-Maghrabi  7  (Heller)  and 
at  Munari\s  (see  above);  KhudiHal  Mail  Steamship  Co.,  at  Munari's  (see 
above);  Russian  Steamship  Co..  Shari'  Ka.sr  en-Nil  40  (Alshov.^ky);  Messa- 
geries  Maritimes,  Shari'  el-Ma;jhrabi  12;  Societa  Maritlima  Italiana,  Shari' 
el-Maghrabi  39  (E.  Figari);  Societa  Italiana  di  Servizi  Marittimi,  at  Cooks 
(see  above).  —  Information  as  to  the  departure  of  steamers  in  the  notice- 
frames  at  Cook's  office  and  in  the  hotels.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  D.  Rees,  Shari' 
'Imad  ed-Din. 


c.  Tramways.   Electric  Railway.    Steamers.   Cabs.   Donkeys.    Dragomans. 

The  Electric  Tramways  are  numbered  and  have  special  compartments 
for  women  (fare,  1st  class  10  mill.,  2nd  cla.ss  5  mill.,  unless  otherwise 
stated).  The  principal  points  of  intersection  are  the  Place  El-' Ataba  el-Khadra 
(PI.  0,  3),  to  the  S.E.  of  tlie  E/.bekiyeh,  and  the  Central  Railway  Station 
(PI.  B,  1;  Place  Ramsh).  —  1  (white  lamp).  From  the  Mid/In  el- Khdzinddr 
(PI.  C,  3)  via  tbe  'Ataba  el-Khadra  (.'ee  above),  Shari'  es-Saha  (PI.  C,  B,  4), 
Midan  Isma'iliyeh  (PI.  A,  4,  H;  Kasr  en -Nil  Bridge,  Egyptian  fliiiseum), 
Shari'  Kasr  el-'Aini,  and  Fumm  el-Khalig  (PI.  A,  7)  to  did  Cairo  (p.  106); 
every  G'/z  miu.,  in  40  min.  —  2  (yellow).  From  the  Khr-divial  Sporting  Club 
at  Gezireh  (p.  79)  via  the  Biilak  Bridge,  Shari' Abu'l  'Ela  (PI.  A,  3),  Shari' 
Biilak,  'Ataba  el-Khadra  (see  above),  and  Bab  el-Khall<  (PI.  D,  4)  to  the 
Citadel  (Place  Saladin;  PI.  E,  6);  every  12  min.  —  3  (white).  From  the 
'Atdba  el-Khadra  (see  above)  via  the  (!entral  Eail\v:iv  Station  (Place  Ram- 
ses; PI.  B,  1)  and  Midan  ez-Zahir  (PI.  D,  E,  1)  to'Abbdsiyeh  (comp.  PI. 
K,  F,  1);  every  3  min.  —  4  (red)  From  the  Zabtlyeh  (comp.  PI.  A,  1)  via 
the  Central  Ptailwav  Station  (PI.  B,  1),  Shari'  Clot  Ei-y,  'Ataba  el-Khadra, 
Midan  Bab  el-Luk  (PI.  B,  4),  and  Midan  Nasriyeh  (PI.  B,  C,  6)  to  the  Seiyideh 
Zeinab  (PI.  C,  6,  7) ;  everv  4  min.  —  5  (red).  From  Ohamra  (to  the  N.  of 
PI.  D,  1)  via  the  Midan  ez-Zfibir  (PI.  D,  E,  1),  Bab  csh-Sha'riych  (PI.  D,  2), 
Muski,  Bab  el-Khalk  (PI.  D,  4;  Arabian  JMuseum),  Shari'  Kbalig  el-Masri, 
and  the  Seiyideh  Zeinab  (PI.  C,  6,  7)  to  the  Abattoirs  (beyon.l  PI.  B,  C,  1); 
every  5  min.  —  6  (yellow).  From  Embdbeh  (p.  143)  to  Gezireh  and  across 
the  Biilak  Bridge,  thence  to  the  Citadel  as  in  No.  2;  every  12  min.  (fares 
2  &  1  pias.}.  —  7.  From  the  Midan  ez-Zdhir  (PI.  D,  E,  1)  as  in  No.  5  to 
the  Seiyideh  Zeinab  (PI.  C,  6,  7).  —  8  (\vhite).  From  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra 
via  the  Shari'  Bulak  (PI.  B,  A,  3),  Shari'  'Abbas  (PL  A,  B,  3,  2),  and  Central 
Railway  Station  to  Shubra  (comp.  PI.  B,  1  ;  p.  78);  every  6  min.  —  9  (green). 
From  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra  via  the  Shari'  Clot  Bey  and  the  Central  Railway 
Station  to  Edd  el-Farag'  (con\\}.  PI.  B,  1;  p.  78);  every  6  min.  —  10  (red). 
From  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra  as  in  No.  S  to  the  Central  Railway  Station  (Place 
Ramses),  then  via  the  Shari'  ez-Zahir  to  Sakakini  (comp.  PI.  D,  1);  every 
5  min.  —  12  (violet;  circular  rovite).  From  the  Central  Bailwuy  Station  via 
the  Shari'  'Abbas,  Shari'  Mariette  Basha  (PI.  A,  4;  Egyptian  Museum),  Ka.sr 
en-Nil,  Midan  el-Azhar  (PI.  E,  4;  Bab  el-Luk  Station),  and  Midan  Nasriyeh 
(PI.  B,  C,  6)  to  the  Seiyideh  Zeinab  (PI.  C,  G,  7)  and  back  by  the  Bab  el- 
Khalk  (PI.  D,  4)  and  'Atal>a  el-Khadra  to  the  Central  Railway  Station;  every 
7  min.  —  13  (green).  From  the  Citadel  as  in  No.  2  to  the  E.  end  of  Biilak 
Bridge,  then  to  (he  N.  to  the  Technical  School  at  Biilak  (p.  79);  every  6  min". 
—  14  (red;  Pyramid  line).  From  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra  (PI.  C,  3)  via  the 
Shari'  BCilak  (PI.  B,  A,  3),  Biilak  Bridge,  Zoological  Gardens,  and  Gizeh 
Village   to   the    Pyramids  (Mena   House;   p.  36);    during   the   winter   every 


Notes. 


CAIRO.  d.  Route..     39 


20  inin.  in  tlie  niMrning  and  every  '/••  h'-  •"  "le  alleriun  n  (during  svunmer 
every  hour  and  half-hour),  in  1  hr.  (lans  l,  2  pias.  ;  last  car  leaving  for 
Cairo  at  11.10  pm.);  when  the  I'.ulak  Bridge  is  open  (see  p.  79),  the  cars 
run  via  the  J.-sUind  nf  Jidda  (\k  105).  —  15  (vinlct).  From  Ihe  'Ataba  el-Khadra 
(PI.  C,  3)  either  as  in  Xd.  14  to  the  Zoological  Garditns  and  to  Oizeh  Village., 
or  as  in  No.  1  to  the  Fumm  el-Khalig  and  via  the  Island  of  Ruda  and 
'Abbas  II.  bridge  tn  GUeh  Village;  every  12  miii.  (fares  2,  1  pias.).  —  17 
(yellow).  From  tho  Central  Uailuiaii  ,'<tatiuti  as  in  No.  12  to  the  Jiasr  en-Nil, 
then  to  GaiiiAmiz ;  every  5  min.  —  From  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra  to  HeliopoHs 
Oasis  (p.  119);  every  10  or  13  niin. 

Electric  Express  Railway  ('Mi'lropolitain' ;  dark  bruwn  and  white  cars) 
from  the  ,Slidri' ' Jiuiid  ^d-D^v  (I'l.  i!,3;  besidf  the  K'^ypliun  telegraph  office) 
to  Heliopiilif  Oaiit  (p.  llil);  every  6-20  min.  from  6  3U  a.m.  until  midnight, 
in  20  min.  (fare.  2  nr  1  pias.). 

Steamboats  of  the  Comjmgiiie  dcs  Baleau.v -  Omnibtis  du  Canal  Ismailia 
ply  daily  from  HOd  el-Farag  (p.  78)  to  the  Barrage  (p.  122).  Excursions 
are   made  al<o  to  the  Barrag>:  (p.  J22)  and  SaUdva  (p.  145). 

Nile  steamers  to   Upper  J'-gypt,  see  p.  201. 

Cabs  (comp.  p.  xviii),  generally  good  victorias  with  two  horses,  are 
always  abundant  in  the  European  quarters  and  others  frequented  by 
strangers.  Closed  cabs  (landaus  I  are  usually  to  be  obtained  only  on  special 
order  and  at  higher  fares.  If  a  cab  is  hired  by  time  the  cabman  should 
be  informed  before  starting.  Fares  shoiild  never  bo  jiaid  until  the  end 
of  the  drive,  and  the  passengers  should  give  no  attention  to  the  complaints 
of  the  cabman.  IJakshisb  is  usually  given  only  tor  drives  of  some  length. 
—  Complaints,  with  the  nnmlier  of  the  cab  and  the  time,  should  be  lodged 
at  the  police-office  (p.  37).  During  the  season  the  demands  of  the  cabmen 
are  often  exorbitant,  but  as  a  general  rule  the  mere  mention  of  the  dreaded 
police  ('Icaralior;  p.  37)  is  sufficient  to  reduce  the  drivers  to  reason. 

Cab  TAniKi--  for  i-3  pers.  (each  pers.  extra  2  pias. ;  each  piece  of  luggage 
beside  the,  driver  1  pias.;  night  and  day  rate  the  same): 

Ordinarv  Cahs.  1.  Per  drive  within  a  radius  of  4  kilometres  (2V2  M.) 
from  the  Place  de  FOpcra  (PI.  C,  3):  1  kil.  3  pias.,  each  additional  kil. 
2  pias.  If  the  cab  is  dismissed  beyond  the  radius  2  pias.  more  is  charged 
for  each  kilometre.  Wailing,  2  pias.  per  i/i  It.  —  2.  By  time  (Arab.  Bi.<- 
sd'a),  within  the  town:  up  to  1  hr.  10  pias.;  each  additional  1/4  hr.  2  pias.; 
whole  day  (.*-8)  70  pias.  —  3.  Longer  drives  :  Citadel  10,  there  and  back  (in- 
cluding halt  of  I  hr.)  20  pias. ;  Old  Cairo  12*25  [lias.  (including  halt  of 
1  hr.);  Tcmbs  of  the  Caliphs  15  &  30  pias.  (including  halt  of  2hrs.);  Oasis 
of  ricliopolis  3U  *  50  pias.  (including  halt  of  2  hrs.);  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  40 
it  (10  pias.  (including  halt  of  3  hrs.). 

Tamhf.tf.i:  Cabs.  Fur  the  first  kilometre  2  pias.,  each  additiona 
()00  metres  1  pias.;  waiting,  2  pias.  per  '/<  lir. 

Taxisietek  Motor  Cabs  (Taxi-Autos).  For  the  first  1200  metres  (3/4  M.) 
3'/2  pias..  each  additi'uial  4()0  metres  or  5  min.  waiting  1  pias.  On  longer 
drives,  when  the  cab  is  n^it  wanted  for  the  return,  the  cabman  is  entitled 
to  5  pias.  from  Gezireh,  the  t'itadel,  or 'Abbasiyeh,  8  pias.  from  Ueliopolis, 
and  10  pias.  from  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh. 

Donkeys  (comp.  p.  xviii),  l)er  short  ride  in  the  city  1-2,  (icr  hr.  4-5  pia^., 
hall'-a-day  S-12,  for  a  day's  excursion  20-25  pias.  They  may  be  found  at 
all  the  most  fre<iuentcd  points,  but  they  are  now  seldom  used  by  Europeans 
in  the  town.  For  visits  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  and  the  Mame- 
lukes, to  the  Mokaltam  Hills,  and  similar  excursions,  donkeys  offer  this  ad- 
vantage over  cabs,  that  they  can  gi.  everywhere,  while  the  bridle-paths  are 
much  less  dusty  than  the  carriage-roads.  The  liaksbish  should  be  propor- 
tionate to  the  quality  of  the  donkey  and  the  behaviour  of  the  donkey-boy. 

Dragomans  (comp.  p.  xxvl.  Only  hurried  travellers  require  a  cicerone. 
The  best  i5-Si.  per  day)  are  to  be  ha<l  at  C.iok  s  office  (p.  38)  or  at  the 
hotels,  where  also  »  list  of  the  guides  licensed  by  the  police  may  be  seen. 
Travellers  are  warned  against  the  guides  who  offer  to  show  them  the  life 
of  Cairo  at  night.  —  Intercourse  with  the  natives,  comp.  p.  xxiv. 


40     Route  4.  CAIRO.  Practical 

d.  Physicians.     Chemists.     Hospitals.     Baths.     Hairdressers. 

Physicians.  English:  J)r.  Beddoe;  Dr.  Day;  Dr.  Garry;  Dr.  Keatinge 
fsee  below);  Dr.  Madden;  Dr.  Milton;  Dr.  Murison  (see  below);  Dr.  Phillips; 
Mr.  Richards;  Dr.  Tribe.,  anil  others.  German:  Dr.  von  Backer -Bey;  Prof. 
Engel-Bey ;  Dr.  Kautzky-liey ;  Dr.  Weriner.  Dr.  Brossard  (see  below ;  French j ; 
Dr.  Hegi  (see  below),  Dr.  Hess -Bey  (both  Swiss).  —  Oculists:  Dr.  Fischer 
(English);  Dr.  Meyerhof  {German).  —  Aurists:  Dr.  Beddoe  {Euf::,\is.h] ;  Dr.  von 
//«6(;reto?i2  (Hunyavian).  —  Skin  Diseases:  Dr.  Scheubcr  (Russian);  Dr.  Lotsy 
(Dutch).  —  Orthopedist:  Dr.  Conrath  (see  below;  Austrian).  —  Diseases 
of  Women:  Dr.  yjoft&w  (English);  Dr.  Hildebrandt,  Dr.  Uetzlaff  {Ge.Tmz,ns).  — 
Dentists:  Dr.  Duprey,  Dr.  Hooper,  Dr.  Waller  (Knglish):  Dr.  Arbeely,  Dr. 
Preund,  Dr.  Henry,  Dr.  Steen  (Amer.).  Tlie  addresses  of  the  above  may  be 
obtained   at  the   hotels,   from  the  chemists,    and  at  Diemer's  (see  below). 

Chemists.  German  tb  English  Dispensary,  Shari'  el-Bawaki;  P/iarmacie 
Anglo- AtnMcaine,  New  English  Dispensary,  Stephenson  <&  Co.,  all  three  in 
the  Place  de  rOpera;  London  Pharmacy,  in  the  Ilalim  Building,  beside 
.Shepheard's  Hotel;  Savoy  Pharmacy  (Norton  &  Co.),  Shari'  Kasr  en-Nil; 
Roberts,  opposite  the  8avny  Hotel;  Pharmacie  Nardi,  in  the  Muski. 

Hospitals.  Victoria  Hospital  (PI.  A,  3;  Prot.),  Shari'  Deir  el-Benat,  man- 
aged by  German  Deaconesses,  under  the  superintendence  of  Drs.  Zeller. 
Murison,  and  Hegi.  —  French  Hospital  (physician.  Dr.  Brossard),  at  'Ab- 
basiyeh  (p.  78),  served  by  Sisters  of  Charity.  —  Anstria- Hungarian  Rudolf 
Hospital  (physician,  Dr.  Conrath),  at  Shubra.  —  Anglo-American  Hospital 
at  Gezireli  (p.  79).  —  Italian  Hospital,  at  'Abbasiyeh.  —  The  A"a.sr  el-'Aini 
(PI.  A,  7;  p.  53),  a  government  hospital  for  native  patients  with  a  school 
of  medicine,  is  under  the  superintendence  of  Dr.  Keatinge.  —  Church  Mis- 
sionary Society  Hospital  (physician.  Dr.  Lasbrey),  in  Old  Cairo  (p.  106),  for 
native  patients.  —  The  Association  Jnlernationale  d'' Assistance  Publique,  Shari' 
Garni'  esh-Sherkes  32  renders  first-aid  (gratuitous)  to  victims   of  accidents. 

Baths.  European  Baths  at  the  hotels;  Swimming  Baths  (in  summer 
only)  behind  Shepheard's  Hotel.  —  The  Arab  Baths  are  scarcely  suitable 
lor  Europeans  (com)),  p.  xxvii). 

Hairdressers  in  the  European  style  abound  in  the  freqnented  quarters 
of  the  town.  We  may  mention  K.  Weinrich  &  Co.,  Shari'  Kasr  en->{il  44, 
H.  Muhr,  Shiiri'  el-Mauakh  25,  and  those  at  the  Savoy,  Continental,  f3emi- 
ramis,  Ghezireh  Palace  and  Shepheard's  Hotels.  —  Arabian  Barbers  (not 
for  Europeans),  .see  p.  48. 

e.  Shops. 

Booksellers  and  Stationers.  F.  Diemer's  Successors  (Find:  <t  Baylaender), 
at  Shepheard's  Hotel  (also  photographs  and  newspapers;  foreign  literature; 
general  information);  B.  Livadas  d:  Kutsikos  ('The  'fourist'),  Shari'  Kamel, 
opposite  Shepheard's  Hotel;  Savoy  Booksellers  (Michel),  Shari' Kasr  en-Nil, 
opposite  the  Savoy  Hotel;  Librairie  Cenirale ( Delburgo),  Shari' 'Imad  ed-Din. 
—  Stationery,  visiting-cards,  etc.:  Boehme  it  Anderer,  Shari'  el-Waghrabi; 
Diemer  (see  above);  Papeterie  Suisse  (Baader  <&  Gross),  Shari'  Ka.sr  en-Nil.  — 
English  Nkwspai'ees  :  Egyptian  Gazette,  the  leading  English  paper  (1  pias.), 
Egyptian  Morning  News  (72  pias.),  Egyptian  Daily  Post  ('/2  pias.),  all  three 
daily;  Sphinx  (weekly  during  the  season  only;  2  pias.).  —  Cikculating 
LiBRAEV,  in  All  Saints'  Garden,  Shari'  Bulak. 

Photographs.  Lekegian,  beside  Shepheard's  Hotel ;  i)te»!er  (see  above) ; 
P.  Dittrich  (Heuman  J:  Co.),  Shari'  Elfi  Bey  7  (negatives  developed).  — 
Photographic  Materials.  Egypt  Kodak,  Place  de  TOp^ra;  Del  Mar,  Midan 
Suarez;  Dittrich  (see  above). 

European  Wares.  Clothing,  shoes,  articles  for  travellers,  for  shoot- 
ing, etc.:  Davies,  Bryan,  &  Co.,  Shari'  'Imad  ed-Din,  corner  of  Shari'  el- 
Manakh  ;  Roberts,  Hughes,  d;  ('o.,  Mi'dan  Suarez;  Phillips  <i'  Co.,  Shari' Kasr 
en-Nil;  Collacott,  Shari'  el-Maghrabi ;  Mayer,  Muski;  S.  Stein,  Bachdrach 
d-  Co.,  both  in  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra;  Karmann,  in  the  Muski  and  the  Halim 
Building,  beside  Shepheard's  Hotel.  Ladies'  requirements :  Au  Printemps, 
Shari'  Ka.sr  en-NiI  23;  Miles.  V4cile.  Shari'  Shawarbi  Basha  7;  Franci's,  Shari' 


Notes.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    41 

'Imad  ed-Din;  Cicurel^  Chemla  Frires,  Sliari'  Bfllak  11  and  19;  B.  Patc?ial, 
Shari'  el-Bawaki.  —  Household  requirements :  J.  d  H.  Fleurent,  Shari' Elfl 
Bey,  behind  Shepheard's  Hotel;  Walker  <t  Meimaraclii,  Shari'  Kasr  en-Nil.  — 
Watchmakers  and  goldsmiths:  Pavid ,  beaide  Shepheard's'  Hotel;  Suys- 
Badollet,  opposite  Shepheard's;  Lattet,  Shari' el-Manakh  30;  Kramer,  Siiss- 
mann,  both  in  the  Muski;  Alerakis,  Zivy,  both  in  the  Halim  Building,  beside 
Sliepheard's  Hotel;  Rud.  Stobhe,  Shari'  el-Manakh  1^8.  —  Sporting  Goods: 
Bajocchi,  in  the  Ezbekiyeh,  near  the  Bristol  Hotel.  —  Opticians:  Davidson  tb 
Jieffenstreif,  in  the  Hotel  Continental;  Lawrence  d-  Mayo,  in  Shepheard's  Hotel 
Buildings  ;  lieinisch,  Muski ;  Siissmann,  Kramer,  see  above.  —  Flowers :  Stamm, 
Shari'  el-Mandkh  23;  Eggert,  in  Shepheard's  Hotel;  Khoulousiy  Bey,  Shari' 
Kasr  en-Nil. 

Tobacco  (comp.  p.  xvii).  Turkish  tobacco  (Stambuli)  and  cigarettes  are 
sold  hy  Ntitor  GianacUs,  Halim  Building,  beside  Shepheard's  Hotel;  Dimi- 
trino  i  Co.,  Shari'  Kaniel';  Salonica,  Place  de  I'Op^ra;  ilelachrino,  Halim 
Building;  Maiossian,  Shari'  el-Ezbek;  Laurens,  opposite  the  Savoy  Hotel; 
etc.  —  CiGAKs:  Engelhardt,  Place  de  TOpera;  S.  <t  C.  Flick,  Van  Vlooten, 
both  in  the  Hotel  Continental,  and  opposite  Shepheard's. 

Arabian  Bazaars,  see  p.  50  &  pp.  53  et  seq.  The  most  important  for 
purchases  is  the  Kl>dn  el-Khalili  (p.  54j.  Many  so-called  oriental  articles  are, 
however,  manufactured  in  Europe  and  are  to  be  obtained  at  home  equally 
srenuine  and  much  cheaper.  —  The  prices  demanded  by  the  dealers  for 
■antiques'  are  absurd,  though  unfortunately  many  travellers  are  foolish 
enough  to  pay  them,  in  spite  of  the  notorious  fact  that  most  of  the  articles  are 
forgeries  (p.  252).  Genuine  articles  may  be  obtained  from.  if.  Nahman,  Shari' 
Sheikh  Abu'l  Seba'a  20,  and  from  Kytikas,  N.  Tano,  and  R.  E.  Blanchard, 
all  three  in  the  Shari'  Eamel.  Those  sold  at  the  Museum  are  cheaper 
(p.  81).  A  special  permit  from  the  Museum  authorities  is  required  by 
law  for  the  export  of  large  specimens. 

Arabian  Woodwork,  Inlaid  Work,  and  Ivory  Carvings  are  sold  hy  Parvis, 
an  Italian,  on  the  left  side  of  a  court  near  the  entrance  to  the  Muski  (p.  53), 
and  by  E.  Hutoun,  also  in  the  Muski ;  strangers  should  not  fail  to  visit  the 
interesting  workshops,  which  they  may  do  without  making  any  purchase. 
Also,  Furino,  Sliari'  Suleiman  Basha,  behind  the  Savoy  Hotel. 

Oriental  Embroidery,  Carpets,  and  other  Articles.  Vilali  Madjar,  in 
Shepheard's  Hotel;  Chellaram,  in  the  Hotel  Continental;  The  Oriental  Carpets 
Manvfaciurers,  opposite  the  Savoy  Hotel;  Joseph  Cohen,  Khan  el-Khalili; 
Jspenian,  Shari'  Kasr  en -Nil;  Pohoomull  Brothers,  opposite  Shepheard's; 
Kytikas  (see  above);  Philip;  Hatoun  (see  above);  The  Oriental  Galleries, 
Shari'  el-Manakh  13;  in  the  Oriental  Museum  (Gabriel  Antoine);  also  at 
various  dealers  in  the  Khan  el-Khalili  (p.  54). 

Goods  Agents.  F.  Bancel  <t  Co.,  Shari'  el-Maghrabi  and  opposite 
Shepheard's;  JohnB.  Caffari,  Shari'  el-Manakh;  Congdon  <b  Co.,  Blattner  & 
Co.,  both  in  the  Shari' Kasr  en-Nil;  John  Ross  &  Co.,  Shari' el-Maghrabi  31 ; 
Cook  &  Son  (p.  38) ;  Egyptian  Bonded  Warehouse  Co.,  Shari'  Zabtiyeh,  near  the 
station.  Those  who  make  purchases  in  Egypt  to  any  considerable  extent  are 
recommended  to  send  them  home  through  the  medium  of  a  goods -agent. 
In  order  to  avoid  custom-house  examinations,  porterage,  and  various  other 
items  of  expense  and  annoyance.  The  consigner  should  satisfy  himself 
that  the  packing  is  properly  done,  as  subsequent  complaints  are  generally 
futile.  —  Parcel  Post,  see  p.  xix. 

f.  Theatres.    Clubs.    Churches.     Schools. 

Theatres.  At  the  Khedivial  Opera  House  (PI.  C,  3 ;  p.  51)  a  French  or 
Italian  opera  company  performs  in  the  winter  season  (chiefly  grand  opera). 
Box  office  open  9-12  and  2-5;  boxes  dear  (evening-dress  compulsory;  closed 
boxes  for  Moslem  ladies).  —  Thi&tre  Printania  (PI.  B,  3),  Shari'  Elfi  Bey 
(French  touring  companies;  comedies  and  operettas).  —  Thidtre  Abbas  (f\. 
B,  2),  Shari'  Kantaret  ed-Dikkeh  (cinematograph  performances).  —  Kursaal, 
Casino  de  Paris,  two  variety  theatres  in  the  Shari"lmad  ed-Din.  —  Summer 
Thkatee,  adjoining  the  Kasr  en-Nil  Terrace  at  the  Ka.«r  en-Nil  Bridge.  — 

Baedekke's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  3 


42     Route  4.  CAIRO.  Practical 

English  Military  Band  on  Tues.  &.  Frid.  evenings  during  the  summer  in 
the  Ezbekiyeh  Garden.  —  Shadow  Plats  (Khaiydl  ed-lHll;  comp.  p.  xxvii) 
may  be  seen  in  the  disreputable  quarter  of  the  Fish  Market  (El-Was'a ;  p.  52), 
in  a  small  cafe  belonging  to  a  certain  Shehata  Hamam  (Sbari-  Bir  Hommos). 
As  the  performances,  which  begin  at  about  9  o'clock  in  the  evening  and 
last  for  several  hours,  take  place  only  two  or  three  times  a  week,  trav- 
ellers should  ascertain  the  programme  beforehand. 

Scientific  Societies.  The  Khedivial  Oeographical  Society  (PI.  A,  5;  Shari' 
Sheikh  Yusiif ;  p.  53),  founded  on  the  instigation  of  Prof.  G.  Schweinfurth, 
the  celebrated  African  traveller,  possesses  a  library,  a  reading-room,  and 
a  small  ethnographical  and  geographical  museum  (open  daily  except  Sun.  & 
Frid.,  8-2;  two  rooms,  in  the  second  a  collection  of  maps-,  secretary,  Gail- 
lardot-Bey);  president,  Dr.  Abbate  -  Pasha.  —  Inslitut  Egyptien  (PI.  A,  5; 
p.  53),  with  a  library;  president,  Yacoub  Artin-Pasha.  —  Inslitut  Frangais 
d'' Archiologie  Orieutale  (p.  53),  with  an  oriental  library  and  a  printing-press. 
—  German  Imperial  Institute  for  the  Sludy  of  Egyptology  (at  Gezireh,  p.  79), 
with  an  Egyptological  library;  director,  Prof.  Ludwig  Borchardt.  —  SociiU 
Internationale  de  Midecine ;  president.  Dr.  Comanos-Pasha.  —  SociM  Khidiviale 
de  Midecine;  president,  Dr.  Abbas-Bey  Hilmi.  —  Colleges.  Azftar  University 
(p.  55);  Universiti  Egyptienne  (p.  52);  School  of  Law  (PI.  C,  4;  English  and 
French  sections);  School  of  Medicine  (p.  40);  Polytechnic  School  (p.  80);  several 
Training  Colleges  (comp.  p.  53). 

Cluhs.  The  Club  Mohammed  Aly  (PI.  A,  4),  Shari^  Suleiman  Basha,  is 
fitted  up  in  the  English  style  (introduction  necessary).  —  Turf  Club  (PI. 
B,  3),  Shari'  el-Maghrahi  12.  —  Automobile  Club,  Shari'  el-Madabegh  25.  — 
Khedivial  Sporting  Club,  at  Gezireh  (p.  79),  Ileliopolis  Sporting  Club,  at  Helio- 
polis  Oasis  (p.  119),  botli  with  golf-links  (18  holes)  and  cricket,  tennis,  and 
polo  grounds.  —  Ileliopolis  Racing  >'lub .  at  Heliopolis  Oasis  (p.  119).  — 
British  Recreation  Club  (PI.  A,  3),  Shari"^  'Abbas. 

Churches.  Anglican:  All  Saints''  (PI.  B,  3),  Shari'  Bulak  (chief  services 
at  11  a.m.  and  6  p.m.);  St.  Mary''s  (PI.  A,  5),  Kasr  ed-Dubara.  —  Presby- 
terian: St.  Andrew's  (PI.  A,  3),  at  the  so-called'  Abu'l  'Ela  Level  Crossing 
(services  at  10.3 )  a.m.  and  6.15  p.m.).  —  American  Service  in  the  American 
Mission  (PI.  B,  C,  3;  at  6  p.m.).  —  French  Protestant  Church  (PI.  A,  3).  — 
(ierman  Protestant  Church  (PI.  A,  3).  —  Roman  Catholic.  Eglise  de  VAssomp- 
tion  (PI.  D,  3),  Shari'  el-Banadkia  2,  in  the  Muski,  with  branch-churches 
in  the  Shari'  'Imad  ed-Din  (St.  Joseph's;  PJ.  B,  4)  and  at  Bulak  (La  Vierge 
du  Carmel);  Jesuit  Church,  Shari'  'Abbas,  in  the  College  de  Faggala;  Church 
of  the  Mission  of  Central  Africa  (Eglise  du  Sacri-Coeur),  Shari'  Deir  el-Benat 
(PI.  A,  B,  3).  —  Orthodox  Greek  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4),  in 
the  Hamzawi  (p.  58).  —  Coptic  Catholic  Church  (PI.  D,  3)  and  Coptic  Orthodox 
Church  (PI.  C,  2);  service  on  Sun.  at  10  a.m.,  on  Christmas  Day  and  the 
Sat.  of  Holy  Week  at  10  p.m.  —  New  Synagogue  (PI.  B,  3),  Shari'  el-Maghrabi. 
The  Jews  here  are  of  two  sects,  the  Talmudists  and  the  Karaites,  the 
former  being  by  far  the  more  numerous.  Most  of  the  synagogues  are  in 
the  Jewish  quarter  (Derb  el-Yehiid ;  PI.  D,  3). 

Schools.  St.  Mary''s  English  School  (comp.  PI.  A,  5),  in  the  Ka.sr  ed-Du- 
bara, Shari'  Ka.sr  el-'Aini,  and  the  Church  Missionary  Society  School^  at  'Ab- 
basiyeh  (p.  78),  both  for  natives.  English  School  for  British  boys  and  girls 
in  Dean's  Buildings,  Shari'  Geziret  Bedran  (PI.  A,  B,  1).  —  The  six  Schools 
of  the  American  Mission  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  have  their  sphere  of  operations  among 
all  classes  and  creeds.  The  American  Mission  College  for  Girls,  Shari'  'Ab- 
bas 4,  is  attended  chiefly  by  Copts.  —  The  German  School  (next  the  Prot. 
church,  PL  A,  3)  is  patronized  by  all  nationalities  and  sects.  There  is 
another  German  school,  adjoining  the  Bab  el-Liik  Station,  kept  by  the 
Sisters  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo.  —  Besides  these  there  are  a  Lycie  Frangais 
(PI.  B,  4),  several  ColUges  des  Frires  (Rom.  Cath.),  an  Ecole  des  Soeurs  du 
Sacri-Coeur  (school  for  girls),  an  Institution  des  Dames  du  Bon-Pasteur  (p.  78), 
a  College  de  la  Ste.  Famille  (school  of  the  Jesuits),  and  a  School  for  the  Blind 
at  'Ezbet  ez-Zeitun  (p.  120;  adm.  on  Thurs.,  2-4).  —  The  Ministry  of  Edu- 
cation maintains  at  Cairo  13  Primary  Schools  (11  for  boys  and  2  for  girls) 
and  3  Secondary  Schools  for  boys.    For  the   elementary  schools,   see  p.  49 


Notes. 


CAIRO.  4.  Route.     43 


g.   Sights  and  Disposition  of  Time. 

Unbelii'vers  are  admitted  by  ticket  (2  pias.)  to  most  of  the  Mosqiiei. 
the  restoration  of  which  has  Id'en  taken  in  hand  hy  a  Comiti  de  Conser- 
vation des  Monuments  de  I'Art  Arabe  (in  the  Arabian  Museum,  p.  62),  and 
to  the  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes,  except  on  Frid.  and  at  the  time  of  the 
midday  prayer  (about  u.ion)  and  on  festivals.  On  leaving  the  mosques 
•/o  pias.  bakshish  should  be  given  for  the  use  of  the  slippers. 

1st  Day.  Forenoon  Tour  of  inspection  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  the  Ezbtkiyeh  (p.  51);  then  walk  or  drive  through  the  Muski  and 
to  the  Bazaars  (most  animated  on  Mon.  &  Thurs. ;  pp.  53-G2).  —  After- 
niion  (by  cab);  to  the  'Tombs  of  the  Calip/is  (p.  Ill)  and  the  'Citadel,  with 
the  mos(iue  of  Mohammed  AH  ('View  of  Cairo;  pp.  68,  69),  returning  (by 
tramway  if  preferred)  via  the  Shari'  Mohammed  'Ali  (p.  62). 

2nd  Day.  Forenoon:  'Egyptian  Museum  (p.  80).  —  Afternoon:  Mosques 
of  "Sultan  Hasan  (p.  66),  '/to  Tuliln  (view;  p.  71),  and  "Kdlt  Bey  (p.  73). 

3kd  Dat.  -Pyramids  of  Gi~eh  (p.  123),  which  may  be  seen  in  the  course 
of  a  forenoon  if  necessary. 

4tu  Dat.  Forenoon :  ■'El-Azhar  Mosqne  (p.  55),  Mosques  of  Ghiiri  (p.  59) 
and  'Muaiyad  (p.  59),  the  Bab  Ztiueileh  (p.  60),  and  the  'Bookbinders'"  House 
(p.  59) ;  spare  time  may  be  spent  in  the  Kazaars  (pp.  53-62).  —  Afternoon : 
by  railway,  or  by  carriage  along  the  'Abbasiyeh  road  via  Kubbeh,  to  Matd- 
riyeh  (Old  ileliopolis,  p.  120);  or  by  the  electric  express  line  to  Heliopolis 
Oasis  (p.  119). 

5th  Day.  Forenoon :  Second  visit  to  the  'Egyptian  Museum  or  the  Ba- 
zaars. —  Afternoon:  Ascent  of  the  •Molcaltam  (p.  116;  view  at  sunset)  and 
visit  to  the  monastery  of  the  Bektashi  Uervishes  (p.  70).  Those  who  take 
the  less  common  excursion  to  the  Spring  of  Moses  and  the  Smaller  Petrified 
Forest  (p.  117),  returning  by  the  Mokattam,  must  start  early. 

6th  Dat.  Forenoon:  'Arabian  Museu/it  (p.  (}2  ;  closed  on  Frid.)  and  A'Aedma? 
Library  (\^.  64).  —  Afternoon  :  Across  the  Kusr  en-NU  Bridge  (closed  to  traffic  at 
certain  hours,  see  p.  79)  to  Gezireh  (p.  79)  and  the  Zoological  Gardens  (p.  80). 

7th  Day.  I)y  railway  (luncheon  should  be  brought)  to  Bedrashein 
and  thence  on  donkey-back  to  Memphis  and  'Sakkdra  (pp.  142  et  seq.).  It 
is  well  worth  while  to  ride  via  Abusir  (p.  141)  to  the  Mena  House  Hotel 
and  return  thence  to  the  town  by  tramway  (comp.  p.  142). 

8th  Day.  Forenoon:  'Muristdn  KalAun(\>.lb),  mosques  of  *Jfo^<ammed 
en-NAsir  (p.  76)  and  Hakim  (p.  77),'  'Bab  en- Nasr  (p.  77).  —  Afternoon 
(cab,  tramway,  or  railway) :  ROda  (p.  105)  and  "O/d  Cairo  (p.  106),  with  the 
Coptic  churches  and  the  mosque  of  Amr  (p.  109);  also,  if  time  permit,  the 
H6sh  el-Bdsha  and  the  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes  (p.  115),  after  which  we  re- 
turn by  the  Place  Saladin  (p. '68). 

9tu  Day.  Barrage  du  Nil  (p.  122),  either  by  railway  (from  the  Cen- 
tral Station;   luncheon  should  be  taken)  or  (preferable)  by  steamer. 

10th  Day.  To  AbuBodsh  (p.  139)  or  to  Abnsir  (p.  141),  if  the  latter  has  not 
already  been  visited  on   the  way  back  from"Sakkara   (see  above,  Day  7). 

The  Egyptian  Museum  (p.  80),  the  Arabian  Museum  (p.  62),  the  El-Azhar 
Mosque  (p.  55),  and  the  Bazaars  deserve  repeated  visits. 

For  the  Mohammedan  Festivals,  see  p.  xcv.  On  account  of  the  crowd 
ladies  should  not  attend  these  except  in  a  carriage.  During  the  festivals 
unbelievers  are  not  admitted  to  the  mosques. 

Cairo,  El-Kdhira,  or  Ma-ir  (Misr)  el-Kdhira,  or  simply  Masr,  is 
situated  in  30°  4' N.  latitude  and  31°'l7' E.  longitude,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Nile,  about  12  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  so-called  'cow's 
belly',  tl)e  point  where  the  stream  divides  into  the  Kosetta  and  Da- 
mietta  arms.  It  has  not  inaptly  been  styled  'the  diamond  stud  oti 
the  handle  of  the  fan  of  the  Delta'.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  city,  which 
covers  an  area  of  11  sq.  M.,  rise  the  barren,  reddish  Mokattam  Hills 
(p.  116),  which  form  the  commencement  of  the  eastern  desert.   On 

3* 


44    Eoute  4.  CAIRO.  History. 

the  W.  the  city  reaches  the  bank  of  the  river  and  the  island  of 
Gezireh  and  has  entirely  ahsorbed  the  suburl)  of  Btilak  (p.  78). 

Cairo  is  by  far  the  largest  city  in  Africa,  as  well  as  in  the 
Arabian  regions.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  Khedive  and  of  the 
principal  authorities  and  has  a  governor  of  its  own.  In  1907  the 
population  was  returned  as  654,476,  including  the  suburb  of  Hel- 
wan.  This  was  inclusive  of  about  53,000  Europeans,  most  of  whom 
were  Greeks  (19,419)  and  Italians  (13,296).  The  native  Egyptian 
population  consists  of  546,328  townspeople  and  4548  Beduins.  The 
otlier  Ottoman  subjects  include  10,546  Turks,  14,539  Syrians,  226 
Arabs,  and  4205  Armenians,  besides  whom  there  are  18, 097  Sudanese 
negroes  of  various  tribes,  Persians,  Hindoos,  etc.  The  great  major- 
ity of  the  inhabitants  are  Mohammedans  (529,877),  while  there  are 
36,605  orthodox  and  3026  Catholic  Copts,  22,599  adherents  of  the 
Greek  Church,  20,545  Roman  Catholics,  20,281  Jews,  13.720  oriental 
Christians  of  various  sects,  and  6867  Protestants. 

History  of  Cairo.  At  a  very  remote  period  a  city  lay  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  the  great  pyramids,  and  was  called  by 
the  Egyptians  Khere-ohe.,  or  'place  of  combat',  because  Horus  and  Seth 
were  said  to  have  contended  here  (p.  cxliv).  This  formed  a  kind  of 
suburb  of  Heliopolis.  The  Greeks  named  it  Babylon,  probably  in 
Imitation  of  the  Egyptian  name  of  the  island  of  Roda,  viz.  Per-hapi-n- 
On  or  the  'Nile  City  of  On'  (Heliopolis).  The  citadel  of  this  town 
(p.  100)  was  fortified  by  the  Romans  and  under  Augustus  became  tlie 
headquarters  of  one  of  the  three  legions  stationed  in  Egypt.  In  641 
A.D.  Babylon  was  captured  by  'Amr  ibn  el- As,  the  general  of  Caliph 
Omar,  who  established  a  new  capital  of  the  country  to  the  N.  of  the 
fortress,  extending  as  far  as  the  Gebel  Yeshkur  (p.  71).  This,  named 
Fustdt  (Lat.  fossatum  =  surrounded  by  trenches),  was,  like  Egypt 
itself,  also  called  Misr  or  Masr  el-Fustdt  by  the  Arabs;  its  present 
name  of  Old  Cairo  (Masr  el-'Attka  or  Masr  el-Kadlmeh)  was  of  later 
introduction.  A  mosque  was  built  on  the  site  of  the  conqueror's 
tent.  When,  after  the  fall  of  the  Omaiyades  in  750  A.D. ,  Fustat, 
with  the  exception  of  the  great  mosque,  was  burned  to  the  ground 
a  new  residence  was  built  still  farther  to  the  N.  by  the  Abbaside 
governors,  and  around  this  sprang  up  the  new  quarter  of  El-' Askar. 
The  town  was  extended  to  the  N.E.  as  far  as  the  base  of  the  citadel 
by  Ahmed  ibn  Tultin,  who  erected  the  quarter  of  El-Katd'i'  (Katd'- 
fyeh).  Ahmed's  splendour -loving  son  Khumdraweih  embellished 
the  town  with  lavish  magnificence.  The  modern  city  of  Cairo  was 
founded  by  Gohar,  the  general  of  the  Fatimite  Caliph  Mu'izz,  after 
the  conquest  of  Egypt  in  969  A.D.  He  erected  a  residence  for  the 
Caliph  and  barracks  for  the  soldiers  commanded  by  him  to  the  N. 
of  El-Kata'i'.  At  the  hour  when  the  foundation  of  the  walls  was 
laid  the  planet  Mars,  which  the  Arabs  call  Kahir,  or  'the  victorious', 
crossed  the  meridian  of  the  new  city,  and  Mu'izz  accordingly  named 


Hhtorij. 


CAIKO.  4.  Route.  45 


the  place  El-Kdhira.  Its  N.  and  its  S.  limits  are  to-day  marked  by 
the  Bab  el-Futuh  (p.  77)  and  the  Bab  Zuweileh  (p.  60)  respectively. 
In  973  Mu'izz  took  up  his  permanent  residence  in  the  new  city  of 
Cairo.  A  new  period  of  prosperity  began  nnder  the  Aiynbides. 
Saladin  endeavoured  to  unite  the  still  separated  cities  of  Cairo  and 
Fustllt  by  means  of  a  common  wall,  which,  however,  was  never 
finished,  and  in  1179  he  founded  the  citadel.  Under  his  luxurious 
and  extravagant  successors  Cairo  was  greatly  extended  and  mag- 
nificently embellished,  and  in  the  14th  cent,  it  reached  its  zenith. 
At  that  period,  however,  it  was  fearfully  devastated  by  the  plague, 
as  it  had  been  on  former  occasions  (^e.g.  in  1065  and  in  1295)  and 
was  also  several  times  subsequently  (especially  in  1492,  when 
about  12,000  people  are  said  to  have  been  carried  off  by  it  in  one 
day).  The  town  suffered  severely  in  other  ways  also,  and  indeed  its 
whole  history,  so  far  as  recorded,  like  that  of  the  sultans  and  the 
Mamelukes  themselves,  seems  to  have  presented  an  almost  con- 
tinuous succession  of  revolutions,  rapine,  and  bloodshed.  As  most 
of  the  Mameluke  sultans  who  resided  in  the  citadel  died  a  violent 
death,  so  the  reign  of  almost  every  new  potentate  began  with  bitter 
and  sanguinary  contests  among  the  emirs  for  the  office  of  vizier, 
while  but  few  reigns  were  undisturbed  by  insurrections  in  the 
capital.  During  the  third  re'gime  of  En-Ndsir  (1293-1340),  who  had 
been  twice  deposed  and  as  often  recovered  his  throne,  a  persecution 
of  the  Christians  took  place  at  Cairo.  The  churches  which  had  been 
built  in  the  capital  and  elsewhere  were  closed  or  demolished, 
while  the  Christians  themselves  were  so  ill-treated  and  oppressed, 
especially  in  the  reign  of  Sultan  Sdlih  (1351-54),  that  many  of  them 
are  said  to  have  embraced  Islamism.  In  1366  and  1367,  in  the  reign 
of  Sultan  Sha'bdn,  sanguinary  conflicts  took  place  in  the  streets  of 
Cairo  between  hostile  parties  of  Mamelukes,  and  in  1377  Sha'ban 
himself  was  tortured  and  strangled  in  the  citadel.  Even  greater 
disorders  attended  the  dethronement  of  Sultan  Barkulc  (1389),  when 
the  wildest  anarchy  prevailed  at  Cairo,  the  convicts  escaped  from 
their  prisons,  and  in  concert  with  the  populace  plundered  the  houses 
of  the  emtrs  and  the  public  magazines.  The  following  year  another 
rebellion  among  the  Mamelukes  restored  Barkiik  to  the  throne. 
Scarcely,  however,  had  he  closed  his  eyes  and  been  succeeded  by 
Farag  (1399),  when  the  Mamelukes  again  revolted  and  renewed  con- 
flicts took  place  for  possession  of  the  citadel,  during  which  the  city 
was  partly  plundered.  Similar  scenes  were  repeated  on  almost  every 
••liange  of  government.  The  turbulence  of  the  Mamelukes,  who 
were  always  treated  with  too  much  consideration  by  the  sultans, 
became  more  and  more  unbearable;  they  robbed  the  people  in  the 
markets  and  assaulted  citizens  in  the  pjiblic  streets. 

On  Jan.  26th,  1517,  the  Osman  sultan  <Seitm /. ,  after  having 
gained  a  victory  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Heliopolis  (p.  120),  en- 
tered the  city.    Tumdn  Bey,  the  last  Mameluke  sultan,  was  taken 


46    Route  4.  CAIRO.  Street  Scenet. 

prisoner  and  executed  (p.  61).  Selira  caused  tlie  finest  marble 
columns  which  adorned  the  palace  in  the  citadel  to  be  removed  to 
Constantinople.  Under  the  Turks  few  new  buildings  were  erected 
in  Cairo  and  the  city  was  freely  exposed  to  the  exactions  of  the 
soldiery,  but  it  still  remained  a  busy  and  brilliant  provincial  capital. 
—  After  the  Battle  of  the  Pyramids  (p.  79)  in  1798  Cairo  was  oc- 
cupied by  Bonaparte,  who  established  his  headquarters  here  for 
several  months.  On  his  return  to  France  Kl^er  was  left  as  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  French  troops  at  Cairo,  where  he  was  assass- 
inated on  June  14th,  1800.  In  1801  the  French  garrison  under 
Eelliard,  being  hard  pressed  by  the  grand-vizier,  was  compelled  to 
capitulate.  On  August  3rd,  1805,  Mohammed  All,  as  the  recognized 
pasha  of  Egypt,  took  possession  of  the  citadel,  which  for  the  last 
time  witnessed  a  bloody  scene  on  March  1st,  1811  (comp.  p.  68). 
Under  Ismd'U  the  neighbourhood  of  the  EzbeMyeh  (p.  51)  was  re- 
modelled, the  great  thoroughfare  known  as  the  Shari'  Clot  Bey  and 
Shari'  Mohammed  'Ali  was  formed,  and  the  new  suburb  of  Isma'Utyeh 
was  begun  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Ezbekiyeh.  To  the  N.  of  the  last  the 
Tauffktyeh  was  added  under  Tauftk.  The  insurrection  of  Arabi  in 
1882  (p.  cxxiii)  scarcely  affected  Cairo. 

Comp.  'The  Story  of  Cairo',  by  Stanley  Lane-Poole,  iu  the  'MediffiViU 
Town  Series'  (2nd  edit. ;  London,  1906) ;  'Oriental  Cairo  ,  by  Douglas  Sladen 
(illus. ;  2nd  edit.,  London,  1913;  7s.  Qd.);  'Cairo  and  its  Environs",  bv 
A.  0.  Lamplotigh  and  R.  Francis  (illus. ;  London,  1909;  20.S.) ;  'The  City  ot 
the  Caliphs',  by  E.  A.  Reynolds-Bnll  (lioston,  1897;  12«.  6rf.);  TyndaWs  book 
mentioned  on  p.  olxxxix ;  and  'Cairo,  Jeni.salem,  and  Damascus'',  bv  D.  S. 
Margoliouth  (illus.;  London,  1907;  20s.). 

The  **Street  Scenes  presented  by  the  city  of  the  Caliphs  admir- 
ably illustrate  the  whole  world  of  oriental  fiction  and  produce  an 
indelible  impression  on  the  uninitiated  denizen  of  the  West.  This 
oriental  life  seems  to  feel  the  atmosphere  of  the  newer  quarters 
uncongenial,  and  it  must  therefore  be  sought  for  in  the  old  Arabian 
quarters,  where  the  streets  are  so  narrow  that  there  is  hardly  room 
for  two  riders  to  pass  and  the  projecting  balconies  of  the  harems 
with  their  gratings  often  nearly  meet.  The  busy  traffic  in  the  prin- 
cipal streets  presents  an  'interminable,  ravelled,  and  twisted  string 
of  men,  women,  and  animals,  of  walkers,  riders,  and  carts  of  every 
description.  Add  to  this  the  cracking  of  the  drivers'  whips,  the 
jingling  of  money  at  the  table  of  the  changers  established  at  every 
corner  of  the  street,  the  rattling  of  the  brazen  vessels  of  the  water- 
carriers,  the  moaning  of  the  camels,  braying  of  donkeys,  and  bark- 
ing of  dogs,  and  you  have  a  perfect  pandemonium'.  It  is  not,  how- 
ever, until  the  traveller  has  learned  to  distinguish  the  various  indi- 
viduals who  throng  the  streets,  and  knows  their  different  pursuits, 
that  he  can  thoroughly  appreciate  his  walks  or  rides. 

From  a  very  early  period  it  has  been  customary  for  the  Arabs  to 
distins:uish  their  different  sects,  families,  and  dynasties  by  the 
colour  of  their  Turbans.    And  the  custom  still  prevails  to  a  certain 


street  Scenes.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    47 

extent.  The  'Sherifs',  or  descendants  oftlie  prophet,  now  frequently 
wear  white  turbans,  though  originally  they  wore  green,  the  colour 
of  the  prophet.  Green  turbans  are  now  worn  by  the  Mecca  pilgrims 
of  a  year's  standing.  The  various  orders  of  dervishes  are  similarly 
distinguished;  the  Rifa'iyeh  wear  black,  dark-blue,  or  bluish-green 
turbans,  the  Ahmediyeh  red,  the  Kadiriyeh  white.  The 'Ulama,  or 
clergy  and  scholars,  usually  wear  a  very  wide,  evenly  folded  turbaii 
of  light  colour.  The  orthodox  length  of  a  believer's  turban  is  seven 
times  that  of  his  head,  being  equivalent  to  the  whole  length  of  his 
body,  in  order  that  the  turban  may  afterwards  be  used  as  the  wearer's 
winding-sheet,  and  that  this  circumstance  may  familiarize  him  with 
the  thought  of  death.  Many  Mohammedans  now,  however,  wear 
European  dress  or  adopt  a  semi-European,  semi-oriental  costume; 
a  common  head-gear  is  the  red  tarhiLsh  (erroneously  known  as  a  fez 
by  most  Europeans).  Little  difference  is  now  observable  between 
the  costume  of  the  Copts,  Jews,  and  other  oriental  'unbelievers'  and 
that  of  the  Moslem  Egyptians,  except  that  the  Coptic  priests  usually 
wear  a  black  turban. 

The  Women  of  the  poorer  and  rustic  classes  wear  nothing  but  a 
black  gown  and  a  veil.  Their  ornaments  consist  of  silver,  copper, 
glass,  or  bead  bracelets,  earrings,  and  anklets,  while  their  chins, 
arms,  and  chests  are  often  tatooed  with  blue  marks.  Similar  tatooing 
is  common  also  among  the  men.  In  Upper  Egypt  nose-rings  also 
are  frequently  seen.  The  women  of  the  upper  classes  are  never  so 
handsomely  dressed  in  the  streets  as  at  home.  When  equipped  for 
riding  or  walking  they  wear  a  silk  cloak,  with  very  wide  sleeves 
(toh  or  sableh),  over  their  home  attire.  They  don  also  the  barkxi\  or 
veil,  which  consists  of  a  long  strip  of  muslin,  covering  the  whole 
of  the  face  except  the  eyes  and  reaching  nearly  to  the  feet.  Lastly 
they  put  on  the  habara,  a  kind  of  mantle,  which  in  the  case  of 
married  women  consists  of  two  breadths  of  glossy  black  silk.  The 
Coptic,  Jewish,  and  Syrian  women  wear  the  same  costume,  but  are 
generally  unveiled.  The  wealthier  ladies,  who  drive  in  their  car- 
riages attended  by  eunuchs,  usually  veil  their  faces  up  to  their  eyes 
with  thin  white  gauze  after  the  fashion  of  Constantinople.  Egyp- 
tian women  colour  their  eyelashes  and  eyelids  dark,  and  their  finger 
and  toe  nails  with  henna ,  which  gives  them  a  brownish-yellow 
tint.    (Circumcision,  weddings,  and  funerals,  see  pp.  xciii  et  seq.) 

Amid  this  busy  throng  of  men  and  animals  resound  the  warn- 
ing shouts  of  coachmen,  donkey -attendants,  and  camel -drivers. 
The  words  most  commonly  heard  are  —  ^Tiglak,  riglak\  ^shimdlak\ 
'yenunak',  'u'u,  u'a.  As  a  rule,  these  warnings  are  accompanied 
by  some  particularizing  title.  Thus,  '^riglak  yii  musyii''  (monsieur), 
or  Wiglak  yd  khawaga'  ('thy  foot,  sir',  i.e.  'take  care  of  your  foot' ; 
khawaga  is  the  usual  title  given  to  Europeans  by  the  Arabs  and  is 
said  to  have  originally  meant  'merchant'  only);  Hvishshak  yd  gada'' 
('thy  face,    young  man');    'shimdlak  yd  sheikh^   ('to  thy  left,   0 


48     Route  4. 


CAIRO. 


Street  Semes. 


chief'};  '■yeminik  yd  pinf  ('to  thy  right,  girl');  'dahrik  yd  sitC 
('thy  back,  lady');  'j/<2  'arUsa'  (bride);  'j/a  shertf  (descendant 
of  the  prophet) ;  'j/a  efendi"  (the  title  for  a  native  gentleman).  — 
Beggabs  are  very  numerous  at  Cairo,  most  of  them  being  blind. 
They  endeavour  to  excite  compassion  by  invoking  the  aid  of  Allah : 
'yd  Mohannin  yd  RabV  ('0  awakener  of  pity,  0  Master');  'tdlib 
min  Alldh  hakk  lukmet  'eish'  ('I  seek  from  my  Lord  the  price  of  a 
morsel  of  bread');  ^ana  deif  Alldh  wa'n-nehi  ('I  am  the  guest  of 
God  and  of  the  Prophet').  The  usual  answer  of  the  passer-by  is 
"al  AUdh\  or  '■Alldh  yehannin  'aleik'  ('God  will  have  mercy  on  thee'), 
or  '■Alldh  ya'tik'  ('God  give  thee';  comp.  p.  xxiv). 

The  Sakka,  or  water-carrier,  with  his  goatskin  of  water,  carried 
either  by  himself  or  by  a  donkey,    still  plies  his  trade  in  Cairo 


although  the  water- works  supply  every  house  in  the  city,  as 
well  as  the  public  sebils  (p.  clxxxii),  with  water,  and  though  on 
many  of  the  houses  there  are  brass  tubes  through  which  passers-by 
may  take  a  draught  from  the  main  pipes.  The  Hemali  also,  wlio 
belong  to  one  of  the  orders  of  dervishes  (p.  xci),  are  engaged  in 
selling  water,  which  they  flavour  with  orange-blossom  {zahrj,  while 
others  use  liquorice  ('erksus)  or  raisins  (zehih).  There  are  also 
numerous  itinerant  vendor.?  of  fruit,  vegetables,  and  sweetmeats, 
which  to  Europeans  usually  look  very  uninviting.  The  Rammdl  or 
soothsayer,  squatting  by  the  side  of  the  road,  offers  to  tell  the  fortune 
of  the  passer-by  by  consulting  the  sand.  Lastly,  there  are  itinerant 
Cooks  (tabbakMn,  sing,  tabbdkh).  with  portable  kitchens,  who  sell 
small  meat  puddings,  fish,  and  other  comestibles. 

Most  of  the  Arabian  Barbers  have  their  shops  open  to  the  street. 
Besides  cutting  the  hair  of  their  customers  thoy  may  be  seen  shav- 
ing their  heads,  an  art  in  which  they  are  very  expert. 


Street  Scenes. 


CAIRO. 


4.  Route.     49 


Several  times  during  the  day  and  also  at  night  the  solemn  and 

sonorous  cry  of  the  muezzin,  summoning  the  faithful  to  prayer  (see 

p.    Ixxxvii) ,     reverberates 

from  the  tops  of  the  minarets 

(mctdna).    When  the  shops 

are     shut     the     watchmen 

(bauwdb)  place  their  heds 

(serir)  of  palm-twigs  in  the 

streets  outside  the  entrances 

and  prepare  to  spend  the 

night  there;  sometimes  they 

have  only  mats  or  rugs  to 

sleep  on.   The  street-traffic 

ceases  in  the  Arab  quarters 

comparatively  early,   while 

in  the  European  districts  it 

goes   on   till    nearly   mid- 
night.       But    during    the 

month  of  Ramadan  it  con- 
tinues      throughout       the 

whole   night   even   in    the 
Arab   quarters;    the   story- 
tellers (p.  xxvi]  in  the   cafe's   then  have  many  listeners,    while 
shadow-plays  (p.  xxvii)  and  broad  farces  attract  others. 

The  traveller  will  ob- 
serve the  Schools  (kultdb), 
of  which  there  are  193  in 
Cairo,  with  363  teachers 
and  11,925  scholars,  and 
one  of  which  is  attached  to 
almost  every  public  foun- 
tain (sebil;  p.  clxxxii).  He 
will  find  it  very  amusing 
to  watch  the  ^fc2,  or  school- 
master, teaching  his  pu- 
pils with  the  aid  of  ad- 
monitions and  blows,  while 
the  boys  themselves  recite 
verses  of  the  Koran  with  a 
swaying  motion  of  their 
bodies  (a  practice  supposed 
to  'strengthen  the  memory') 
or  bend  over  their  wooden 
or  metal  writing  tablets. 
They  do  not  fail,  however, 
to  find  time  for  the  same 
tricks  as  European  school- 


50    Route  4.  CAIRO.  Bazaars. 

boys.     It  is  not  advisable  to  watch  the  flki  too  closely,  as  he  is 
easily  disconcerted. 

These  schools,  mostly  founded  by  endowments  of  the  Wakf  Administra- 
tion (p.  Ixxxvi),  are  now  managed  by  the  Ministry  of  Education.  The  mere 
reading  and  recitation  of  verses  from  the  Kuran  being  in  itself  considered 
a  meritorious  act,  the  great  object  of  these  schools  is  to  teach  the  pupils 
to  recite  the  Koran  by  heart.  Although  the  language  is  often  antiquated 
and  obscure,  no  explanations  are  given,  so  that  the  boy  who  knows  the 
whole  book  by  heart  usually  understands  but  little  of  it.  After  learning 
the  alphabet  the  pupil  is  taught  to  write  a  few  simple  words,  such  as  the 
names  of  his  friends,  and  then  learns  the  ninety-nine  'beautiful'  names 
of  Allah,  a  knowledge  of  vyhioh  is  necessary  to  enable  him  to  repeat  the 
ninety-nine  prayers  of  the  Mohammedan  rosary  (sebha).  The  boy  is  next 
made  to  learn  the  Fdtha  (p.  Ixxxvii),  or  first  chapter  (sureh)  of  the  Koran, 
after  which  he  proceeds  to  learn  the  last,  the  last  but  one,  and  the  others 
in  the  same  inverted  order,  until  he  reaches  the  second,  the  reason  being 
that  the  chapters  gradually  diminish  in  length  from  the  second  to  the  last. 
The  course  of  study  frequently  takes  4-6  years  and  its  completion  is  com- 
memorated by  the  celebration  of  the  K/talmeh,  a  family  festival,  to  which 
the  schoolmaster  is  invited. 

The  Bazaars  i  of  Cairo,  though  inferior  to  those  of  Damascus 
and  Constantinople ,  present  to  the  European  traveller  many  novel 
features  and  many  interesting  traits  of  oriental  character.  As  is 
the  universal  custom  in  the  East,  shops  of  the  same  kind,  with 
their  workshops,  are  congregated  together  in  the  same  quarter, 
named  sometimes  after  a  mosque  but  more  usually  after  the  wares 
there  sold,  e.g.  Silk  en-Nahhastn,  bazaar  of  the  coppersmiths,  Silk 
el-Khordag7yeh,  bazaar  of  the  ironmongers.  Most  of  the  bazaars  con- 
sist of  narrow,  and  often  dirty,  lanes,  generally  covered  over  with 
an  awning  to  shade  them  from  the  sun,  and  flanked  with  shops  about 
6  ft.  wide.  These  shops  (dukkCin)  are  open  towards  the  street,  and 
in  front  of  each  is  a  mastaba  or  seat  on  which  the  customer  takes  his 
place  and  on  which  the  shopkeeper  offers  his  prayers  at  the  appointed 
hours.  These  lanes  usually  enclose  a  massive  storehouse  of  con- 
siderable size  (khan),  consisting  of  two  stories.  Several  such  khans 
together  form  a  quarter  of  the  city  (hdra).  These  were  formerly 
closed  at  night  by  massive,  iron-mounted  gates,  still  in  some  cases 
preserved,  though  no  longer  used. 

The  principal  market-days  are  Monday  and  Thursday,  when 
the  traffic  in  the  narrow  streets  is  so  great  that  it  becomes  difficult 
or  impossible  to  traverse  them.  Pedlars  are  seen  forcing  their  way 
through  the  crowd,  shouting  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  So,  too,  we 
observe  coffee-sellers,  water-carriers,  sweetmeat-vendors,  and  others, 
elbowing  their  way. 

In  walking  through  bazaars  and  other  streets  the  traveller  will 
be  interested  in  observing  how  industriously  and  skilfully  the 
Artisans  work,  with  tools  of  the  most  primitive  description.  The 
turners  (Kharrat),  for  example,  are  equally  adroit  with  hand  and  foot. 

+  Bdzdr  is  properly  speaking  a  Persian  word,  the  Arabic  equivalent 
lor  which  is  sUk.  The  magazines  of  the  wholesale  merchants,  with  their 
large  courts,  are  called  wakk&leh  or  wakkala,  which  the  Franks  have 
corrupted  to  Occaleh  or  Okella  (comp.  p.  clx.xxvi). 


1.  Ezbektyeh.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    51 

European  travellers  who  purpose  making  large  purchases  in  the  ba- 
zaars must  arm  themselves  beforehand  with  the  most  inexhaustible  pa- 
tience. Time  has  no  value  for  an  Oriental,  and  that  fact  must  be  taken 
into  the  calculation.  Everything  must  be  haggled  for,  sometimes  in  the  most 
obstinate  fashion.  When  the  customer  knows  the  proper  price  and  offers 
it,  the  dealer  will  remark  '■shicaii/eh'  tit  is  little),  but  will  close  the  bar- 
gain. Sometimes  the  shopkeeper  sends  for  cotfee  or  tea  from  a  neighbouring 
coffee-house  in  the  course  of  the  bargaining.  If  no  satisfactory  agreement 
can  be  reached,  the  customer  should  calmly  proceed  nn  his  way.  Every  step 
he  takes  will  lower  the  demands  of  the  obdurate  deab-r.  It  is  advisable 
to  offer  at  first  rather  a  lower  sum  than  the  purchaser  is  willing  to  pay, 
in  order  that  the  offer  may  be  raised.  A  common  phrase  in  the  cere- 
monious East  is  •khudu/i  balasIC  (take  it  for  nothing),  which,  of  course,  is 
never  seriously  meant.  Foreigners,  however,  must  be  prepared  to  pay 
more  than  natives.  Dragomans  and  commissionnaires  usually  have  a  private 
understanding  with  the  dealer,  so  that  to  make  purchases  in  their  company 
is  to  add  10-20  per  cent  to  the  price.  The  street-hawkers  often  ask  as  much 
as  5,  10,  15,  or  even  20  times  the  value  of  their  wares.  Skill  in  getting 
the  bettor  of  a  purchaser  is  in  the  eyes  of  an  Oriental  merely  a  desirable 
business  accomplishment. 


1.  The  Ezbekiyeh  and  the  New  Quarters. 

The  ceutral  point  of  the  foreign  quarter,  between  the  old  Arab- 
ian Cairo  and  the  new  town  built  in  the  European  style  within 
the  last  50  years,  is  the  — 

*Ezbekiyeli  Garden  (PL  C,  3),  or  simply  the  Ezbekhjeh,  on  the 
site  of  the  former  Ezbekiyeh  Lake  and  named  after  the  heroic  Emir 
Ezbek,  the  general  of  Sultan  Kait  Bey  (1468-96;  p.  cxix),  who 
brought  the  general  and  son-in-law  of  Bayazid  I.  as  a  captive  to 
Cairo.  A  mosque,  now  vanished,  was  erected  here  in  1496  in  honour 
of  his  victory.  The  fine  gardens,  which  have  several  entrances  (adm. 
i/o  pias.),  were  laid  out  in  1870  by  M.  Barillet,  formerly  chief  gar- 
dener to  the  city  of  Paris.  They  cover  an  area  of  20i/2  acres  and 
contain  a  variety  of  rare  and  beautiful  trees  and  shrubs.  Crows  and 
kites  are  here  very  numerous.  In  the  centre  of  the  gardens  is  a 
roller  skating  rink.   Military  bands,  see  p.  42. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Ezbekiyeh  lies  the  Opera  House  (p.  41),  between 
which  and  the  Hotel  Continental  stretches  the  Place  de  l' Opera 
(M7dan  et-Teatro;  Pl.  B,  C,  3),  with  an  equestrian  statue  of  Ibrahim 
Pasha  (Arab.  EL-Husdn).  Thence  the  Shari'  'Abdin  leads  to  the 
S.  to  the  Midan  'Abdin^  on  the  left  side  of  which  lies  the  Khedivial 
Palace  (PI.  C,  4,  f)),  and  on  the  right  the  Egyptian  Army  Barracks. 

Between  the  Ezbekiyeh  and  the  Opera  House  the  Shari'  et-Teatro 
leads  to  the  small  Midan  Ezbek,  with  the  building  of  the  Inter- 
national Tribunal  (Tribunaux  Mixtes;  PI.  C,  3^  and  the  Credit Lyon- 
nais  (p.  .37).  Parallel  with  this  street  runs  the  Shari'  Tahir,  on  the 
right  side  of  which  are  the  building  of  the  Caisse  de  la  Dette  Pub- 
lique,  the  Oeneral  Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3  ;  p.  37),  and  the  Headquarters 
of  the  Fire  Department.  Both  these  streets  end  at  the"  'Atajba  el- 
Khape.*^,  a  point  of  intersection  of  many  tramways  (p.  38),  whence 
the  Muski  (p.  53)  leads  to  the  E. 


52  Route  4.  CAIRO.      /.  Ismd'Uiyeh  ^  Taufiktyeh. 

Adjoining  the  Ezbekiyeh  on  the  N.E.  is  the  small  Mi<Mn  el- 
Khdzinddr  (PI.  C,  3;  Shari'  Clot  Bey,  see  p.  78).  The  narrow 
lanes  to  the  N.E.  lead  to  the  so-called  Fish  Market  (El-Was' a),  one 
of  the  most  disreputable  quarters  of  Cairo. 

Westwards  from  the  Ezbekiyeh  and  to  the  W.  of  the  Shari'  Kamel 
and  the  Shari' 'Ahdin ,  as  far  as  the  Nile  and  the  Shari'  'Abbas, 
extend  the  quarters  of  IsmS-'iliyeh  and  Taufikiyeh.  —  The  Ismd'- 
Uiyeh  was  begun  by  the  Khedive  Isma'il  (p.  oxxii),  who  desired  to 
rival  the  modern  quarters  of  Paris  and  presented  sites  here  gratui- 
tously to  anyone  who  would  undertake  to  erect  on  each  a  house 
worth  at  least  30,000  fr.  within  eighteen  months.  This  is  still  the 
fashionable  quarter  as  well  as  the  seat  of  the  European  trade.  Several 
of  the  principal  hotels  and  banks  are  situated  here,  also  the  English 
church,  the  ministerial  offices,  most  of  the  consulates,  and  many 
palaces  of  European,  Levantine,  and  Egyptian  grandees.  Isma'il- 
iyeh  and  Taufikiyeh  are  separated  from  each  other  by  the  wide  and 
busy  Shari'  Bulak,  which,  beginning  on  the  W.  at  the  Ezbekiyeli, 
leads  to  the  quarter  of  Billak  (p.  78)  and  the  new  Biilak  Bridge 
(p.  79).  To  the  left  stands  the  Church  of  All  Saints  (PI.  B,  3;  p.  42). 
—  To  the  S.  of  the  Shari'  Bulak,  and  parallel  with  it  part  of  the  way, 
run  the  Shari'  el  -  Maghrabi  and  the  fashionable  Shari'  el- 
Manakh.  Farther  to  the  S.  is  the  Shari'  Kasr  en-Nil,  leading 
from  the  Shari'  'Abdin  (p.  51)  to  the  Midan  Suleiman  Basha 
(PI.  A,  B,  4),  with  the  monument  of  Suleiman  Pasha,  while  at  the 
N.E.  corner  stands  the  Savoy  Hotel  (p.  35).  Beyond  this  point  the 
street  leads  past  the  handsome  Palace  of  Count  Zogheb,  built  by 
Herz- Pasha  in  the  Arabic  style,  to  the  barracks  of  Kasr  en- Nil 
(PL  A,  4)  and  the  Museum  of  Egyptian  Antiquities  (p.  80). 

The  Shaki'  Suleiman  Basha  (PL  A,  B,  3, 4)  leads  from  the  Midan 
Suleiman  Basha  to  the  Middn  Ismd'Uiyeh,  where  it  joins  the  Shari' 
el-Kubri,  leading  to  the  Kasr  en-Nil  Bridge.  Farther  on  the  street 
takes  the  name  of  Shari'  Kasr  el-'Aini.  On  its  right  side  are  the 
English  Church  of  St.  Mary  (p.  42)  and  a  handsome  quarter  erected 
on  the  site  of  the  Palace  Kasr  ed-Dubdra,  including  the  British  and 
the  United  States  Agencies  [PI.  A,  5).  On  the  E.  side  of  the  street 
is  the  Vniversite  Egyptienne  (PI.  A,  5),  an  institution  founded  in 
1  908  on  the  European  system,  with  professors  of  all  nationalities 
(123  students  in  1911-12,  including  43  women).  Farther  on,  on 
the  same  side,  are  the  building  containing  the  Ministry  of  Public 
Works  and  the  War  Office  (entr.  in  the  Shari'  esh-Sheikh  Rihan), 
and  the  building  of  the  Sudan  Age7icy  (p.  37).  In  the  grounds  sur- 
rounding the  ministerial  building,  to  the  N.,  is  the  — 

Museum  of  Geology  (PI.  A,  B,  5 ;  open  from  Oct.  to  April  8.30-4, 
at  other  seasons  7.30-1,  on  Sun.  8.30-12.30;  closed  on  Frid.  and 
holidays).    Catalogue  (1905),  2^/2  pi^-S-    Director,  Dr.  W.  F.  Hume. 

The  lower  story  contains  petrified  trees,  (lint  implements,  and  a  col- 
lection of  dift'erent  kinds  of  Egyptian  stones  and  soil.  On  tlie  upper  floor 
is  an  extensive  collection  of  Egyptian  fossils  (upper  eocene),    found  by 


2.  The  Muiki.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    53 

Mr.  Beadnell  in  the  Libyan  desert.  In  the  centre  room  are  three  skulls 
(preserved  entire)  of  the  Arsinoitherium  Zittelii  (a  species  of  monster 
rhinoceros;  from  theFaiyum);  bones  of  the  PalBeomastodon  and  Moerithe- 
rium,  the  oldest  known  representatives  of  the  order  of  pachydermata ;  and 
two  complete  specimens  of  a  monster  tortoise  (Testudo  Ammonia).  In  the 
side -rooms  are  mineralo^ical  and  geognostic  specimens  (line  auriferous 
quartz)  and  a  complete  collection  of  the  fossils  characteristic  of  the  various 
geological  formations  of  Egypt. 

Adjoining  the  Museum  are  the  Institut  Egyptien  (^p.  42)  and  the 
Chemical  Laboratory  of  the  Survey  Department ;  in  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  grounds  is  the  Geographical  Society  (p.  42);  and  in  the  N.E. 
angle,  the  Public  Health  Department  Laboratory  and  the  Bacterio- 
logical Institute.  At  the  E.  end  of  the  ministerial  building  is  the 
Office  of  the  Department  of  Public  Health  (Services  Sanitaires). 

Farther  on,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Shari'  Kasr  el-'Aini,  lie  the 
Education  Office  (Ministere  de  I'lnstruction  Publique;  PI.  A,  6)  and 
the  Nasrlyeh  Training  College.  Behind  the  latter,  in  the  Shari'  el- 
-Munira,  is  the  French  Institute  of  Oriental  Archaeology  (p.  42).  The 
continuation  of  the  Shari'  Kasr  el-'Aini  passes  on  the  right  side  the 
large  Hospital  of  Kasr  el-'Aini  (PI.  A,  7;  p.  40),  with  the  small  Mosque 
of  the  same  name.  —  Thence  to  the  M7dan  Fumm  el-Khallg  and  to 
Old  Cairo,  see  pp.  104  et  seq. 


2.  The  Muski  and  its  Side  Streets. 

A  visit  to  the  chief  £a;aa/.s  Icomp.  p.  50),  to  which  this  section  is  de- 
voted, is  so  full  of  novelty  and  interest  that  the  traveller  will  scarcely  have 
time  to  combine  with  the  first  visit  the  inspection  of  the  Mosqves  passed  on 
the  way.  —  Both  ladies  and  gentlemen,  aided  by  the  following  description 
and  the  plan  of  the  town  (p.  35),  may  plunge  fearlessly  into  the  thickest  of 
the  crowd,  especially  if  they  do  not  mind  taking  an  occasional  wrong  turning. 

Tlie  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  Arabian  part  of  Cairo  is  the 
*  Muski  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  which  begins  at  the  square  of  El-'Ataba  el- 
Khadra  (p.  51)  and,  with  its  continuations  the  Sikkeh  el-Gedideh 
(see  below)  and  the  Shari'  esh-Sharawani  (Pl.E,  F,  3),  traverses  the 
entire  breadth  of  the  old  town  (nearly  1  M.).  This  street  has  now  to 
a  great  extent  lost  its  external  oriental  characteristics.  The  nu- 
merous tobacco  and  cigar  stores  and  emporiums  of  clothing  present 
quite  a  European  exterior.  But  the  oriental  features  of  the  trafflc 
(p.  46)  that  surges  up  and  down  the  street  from  morning  till  night 
are  still  unchanged.  At  the  end  of  the  Muski,  a  little  short  of  the 
square  known  as  Suk  el-Kanto  (PI,  D,  3),  we  enter  the  old  city  of 
the  Fatimites  (p.  44),  the  second  wall  of  which,  erected  after  1074, 
is  still  represented  by  the  Bab  el-Futuh  and  the  Bab  en-Nasr  (p.  77), 
its  N.  gates,  and  the  Bab  Zuweileh  (p.  60),  its  S.  gate.  Its  W. 
boundary  was  the  old  canal  of  El-Khalig,  now  the  Shari'  Khalig  el- 
Masri  (tramway  No.  5,  p.  38).  —  We  follow  the  continuation  of  the 
Muski,  the  Sikkbh  el-Gbdideh  (Rub  Neuve),  to  the  insignificant 
Gdmi'  el-Ashraf(Fl.  E,  3 ;  comp.  p.  58),  a  mosque  built  by  Sultan  Bars 
Bey  in  1422.    Here  foot-passengers  turn  to  the  left  (carriages  go 


54    Route  4.  CAIRO.  2.  The  Miiski  and 

on  to  the  next  turning)  into  the  long  line  of  thoionghfare  beginning 
with  the  Shaii'  el-Khordagtyeh,  and  at  the  first  cross-street  on  the 
right  we  enter  a  large  covered  bazaar,  known  as  the  Khan  el-Khalili. 

The  KMn  el-Zhallli  (_P1.  E,  3),  still  the  centre  of  the  market 
traffic  of  Cairo,  was  founded  in  1400  by  Garkas  el-Khalili,  master 
of  the  horse  to  Sultan  Barkuk,  on  the  site  of  a  chateau  of  the  Fati- 
mites.  It  forms  a  distinct  quarter  of  the  city,  and  is  intersected  by 
a  main  street  and  numerous  cross-lanes,  formed  by  long  rows  of 
stalls  of  tradesmen  and  artisans,  all  covered  over.  Here  are  the 
headquarters  of  the  silk  and  carpet  merchants  and  the  vendors  of 
trinkets.  We  follow  the  main  avenue,  the  Sikket  el-Badistan, 
which  contains  two  graceful  Arab  gateways.  In  the  first  lane  on  the 
left  is  the  Bazaar  of  the  Shoemakers,  in  which  the  red  shoes  of  the 
Arabs  may  be  purchased.  Farther  on,  to  the  right  of  the  main  street, 
are  some  large  Carpet  Bazaars. 

The  prices  of  Carpels,  like  those  of  other  oriental  goods,  are  liable 
to  great  fluctuation.  As  soon  as  a  purchaser  appears,  the  dealers  spread 
their  wares  over  the  whole  court  for  his  inspection.  Patience  and  time 
are  essential  for  a  satisfactory  bargain  (comp.  p.  51).  The  black  or  white 
tulle  shawls,  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  thread,  are  sold  by  the  best 
dealers  by  weight;  the  price  varies  from  3  to  6  mill,  per  dirhem  (48.15  gr. 
troy).  Many  of  the  so-called  Damascene  silks,  and  particularly  the  lighter 
kuffiyehs  in  pleasing  colours,  are  manufactured  at  Lyons  and  Crefeld. 

Taking  the  second  cross-lane  on  the  right  and  passing  through 
an  interesting  Arab  Gateway,  with  stalactite  vaulting,  inscriptions, 
serpentine  ornamentation,  and  a  few  mosaics,  we  enter  the  attrac- 
tive Brass  Bazaar  (Shari'  Khan  el-Khalili).  From  this  bazaar  we 
enter  the  Shari'  esh-Sharawani  (p.  53)  or  go  on  through  the  Sikket 
ol-Badistan.  Opposite  the  end  of  the  latter,  in  the  Mashhad  el- 
Hoseini,  is  the  — 

Gkmi'  Seiyidna'l-Hosein  or  £1-Hasauein  (PI.  E,  3),  the  mosque 
of  the  youthful  Hosein,  who  fell  at  Kerbela  in  680  A.D.  in  battle 
against  the  enemies  of  his  father  Ali,  son-in-law  of  the  prophet, 
who  was  slain  in  661.  Hosein  is  still  highly  venerated  by  Shiite 
Mohammedans  (p.  xcii),  particularly  in  Persia.  The  mosque  (in- 
accessible to  non-Moslems)  is  of  no  architectural  importance,  while 
it  has  been  almost  completely  modernized,  even  to  the  introduction 
of  gas-lighting.  The  chief  attraction  is  the  mausoleum,  which  con- 
tains the  head  of  Hosein,  said  to  have  been  brought  to  Cairo  in  a 
green  silk  bag.  This  mosque  is  chiefly  frequented  by  men  on  Thurs- 
days and  by  women  on  Saturdays. 

From  the  mosque  we  turn  to  the  S.,  cross  the  Shari'  esh-Shara- 
wani obliquely,  and  enter  the  Suabi'  el-Halwagi  (PI.  E,  3),  which 
is  mainly  occupied  by  the  stalls  of  the  Booksellers. 

Most  of  the  booksellers  are  also  scholars,  and  their  shops  are  the  resort 
of  the  learned  world  of  Cairo.  As  the  prices  of  books  vary  greatly  in 
accordance  with  the  demand  and  other  circumstances,  and  as  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  a  fixed  publishing  price,  purchasers  should  always  endea- 
vour to  ascertain  beforehand  the  true  value  of  any  work  they  wish  to 
buy.      As   in   the    case   of  many   other   wares,  the  line  between  new  and 


its  Side  Streets.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    55 

second-band  liooks  is  not  so  strictly  drawn  in  the  East  as  in  Europe 
The  booksellers  generally  keep  catalogues,  several  feet  in  length,  to  re- 
fresh their  memories  regarding  the  state  of  their  stock.  The  Koran,  which 
is  shown  very  reluctantly  to  non-Moslems,  is  kept  separate  from  the  other 
books.  The  books  are  piled  up  in  a  very  inconvenient  fashion.  Many  of 
them  are  sold  in  loose  sheets,  in  which  case  the  purchaser  should  see  that 
the  work  is  complete,  as  gaps  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  The  bindings 
usually  consist  of  leather  or  pasteboard.  Valuable  books  are  often  kept 
in  cases  of  red  sheepskin.  —  The  workmanship  of  the  bookbinders,  who, 
like  other  oriental  artisans,  work  in  the  open  street,  is  far  inferior  to 
that  of  European  productions.     Red  is  their  favourite  colour. 

We  now  follow  the  Sliari'  el-Azbar,  which  leads  to  the  left  to 
the  main  entrance  of  the  Azhar  Mosque. 

The  *GS.mi'  el-Azhar  [PI.  E,  '6,  4),  the  'most  blooming',  the  most 
important  monument  of  the  Fatimite  period,  was  completed  in  970 
A.D.  hy  Gohar,  the  vizier  of  the  Fatimite  Sultan  El-Mu'izz,  and  here, 
three  years  later,  El-Mu'izz  offered  his  first  prayer  after  his  entry 
into  Cairo.  Admission,  see  p.  43;  cameras  are  forbidden  and  the 
visitor  should  carefully  abstain  from  any  manifestation  of  amuse- 
ment or  contempt.  The  mosque  was  converted  into  a  University  in 
988  by  Caliph  El-' Aziz  (p.  cxv).  The  rectangular  ground-plan  of 
the  original  building,  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by  the  Emir  Salar 
after  an  earthquake  in  1303,  is  easily  recognizable,  but  it  has  been 
so  frequently  restored  that  no  part  of  it  can  be  said  to  date  actually 
from  the  Fatimite  period  except  the  central  part  of  the  sanctuary, 
with  its  cupolas.  Everything  outside  this  rectangle  is  known  posi- 
tively to  be  of  later  date.  The  characteristic  old  ornamentation  of 
the  arcades  and  cupolas  in  the  sanctuary  deserves  special  attention; 
that  of  the  walls  has  been  for  the  most  part  renewed  after  vanished 
patterns.  The  arcades  of  the  court  (sahn)  were  rebuilt  under  the 
Khedive  Taufik  with  scrupulous  reproduction  of  the  old  style  and 
the  retention  of  the  old  columns.  —  Tlie  successive  rulers  of  Egypt 
have  emulated  each  other  in  maintaining  and  enlarging  this  vener- 
able building.  In  the  18th  cent,  the  wealthy  'Abd  er-Rahman  Kihya 
added  four  aisles  to  the  sanctuary,  and  in  more  recent  days  Sa'id 
Pasha  and  the  Khedives  Taufik  and  'Abbas  II.  have  been  notable 
benefactors  of  the  mosque.  'Abbas  II.  erected  a  new  building  in 
place  of  the  dilapidated  N.W.  side  of  the  mosque,  and  his  neo-Arab 
fagade  is  practically  the  only  one  the  mosque  boasts,  the  other  sides 
being  all  quite  unpretentious  and  concealed  in  narrow  lanes. 

The  university  is  con.sidered  the  most  important  in  the  territory 
of  Islam.  Before  the  British  occupation  the  average  number  of 
students  was  7600-7700,  taught  by  230  professors.  After  that 
the  numbers  sensibly  diminished,  as  no  students  came  from  the 
former  equatorial  provinces  of  Egypt  during  the  domination  of  the 
Mahdi.  In  1912,  however,  the  numbers  had  again  risen  to  14,959 
students  and  587  teachers.  Most  of  the  students  are  natives  of  Egypt, 
so  that  the  Egyptian  riwaks  (p.  58;  Upper  Egypt,  Lower  Egypt, 
Eastern  Egypt)  are  the  largest,  each  having  several  hundred  students. 


56     Route  4.  CAIRO.  2.  The  Muski  and 

The  nationality  of  the  various  groups  of  students  may  he  learned 
from  the  guide. 

No  lectures  are  delivered  on  Thurs.  or  during  the  fasting  month  of 
Ramadan.  When  teaching,  the  professor  (sheikh)  sits  cross-legged  on  a 
straw-mat  or  chair  and  reads  from  a  book  placed  on  a  desk  (rahleh)  before 
him,  explaining  each  sentence  as  he  proceeds;  or  he  directs  one  of  the 
more  advanced  students  to  read  aloud,  adding  his  owa  explanations  from 
time  to  time.  The  students  sit  in  a  circle  around  the  teacher,  listening  or 
attentively  taking  notes.  As  soon  as  a  student  knovrs  by  heart  and  can 
explain  the  whole  of  the  book  that  is  being  studied  by  the  class,  the 
sheikh  makes  an  entry  {Igdzeh,  i.e.  permission)  in  the  student's  copy  of 
the  work ,  whereby  authority  to  lecture  in  the  faculty  concerned  is  con- 
ferred. But  the  student  cannot  avail  himself  of  this  permission  until 
he  has  passed  the  final  examination  ,  to  which  he  may  submit  himself 
after  receiving  an  Igazeh  in  each  of  the  subjects  of  examination. 

The  complete  Cokricclum  at  the  Azbar  now  lasts  for  17  years.  If  the 
student  (mtigdwir)  successfully  passes  the  final  examination  at  the  end  of 
this  period  he  receives  the  Shehadeh  el-'AHmiynh,  or  'diploma  of  learning', 
which  qualifies  him  to  teach  at  the  Azhar  or  other  institutions  of  similar 
standing  {e.g.  the  mosque  of  Ahmed  at  Tanta,  p.  33).  At  the  end  of 
the  eleventh  year  a  preliminary  examination  is  held,  success  in  which 
secures  the  Shehadeh  d-Ahliyeh,  a  diploma  qualifying  for  the  minor  offices 
in  the  mosques  and  for  the  post  of  elementary  teacher.  The  subjects 
taught  at  the  university  fall  into  two  classes :  preparatory  studies  and 
professional  studies.  The  former  embrace  syntax  (nahw),  grammar  (sarf)^ 
rhetoric  (baldgha),  logic  (manlik),  the  art  of  poetry  ('ardd  and  kQflyeli), 
algebra  (gibr) ,  arithmetic  (hisdb) ,  and  the  proper  mode  of  reciting  tlie 
traditions  (tnustalah  el-hadith).  The  professional  subjects  are  theology 
(kaldm).,  jurisprudence  ijikh;  p.  Ixxxvi),  the  explanation  of  the  Koran 
(tafsir),  and  the  teaching'  of  the  traditions  {hadilh;  p.  Ixxxv).  History, 
geography,  mathematics,  and  style  are  optional  subjects.  —  The  above  list 
of  the  subjects  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  intellectual  condition 
of  Orientals  at  the  present  day.  The  most  conspicuous  defect  of  their 
culture  consists  in  the  entire  absence  of  independent  thought,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  they  are  the  mere  recipients  of  the  knowledge  of  the 
past.  Their  minds  are  thus  exclusively  occupied  with  the  lowest  grade  of 
intellectual  work,  their  principal  task  consisting  in  the  systematic  arrange- 
ment or  encyclopfedic  compilation  of  the  knowledge  handed  down  to  them. 

At  the  head  of  the  university  is  the  Sheikh  el-Odmf,  with  an  admin- 
istrative committee  of  five.  Control,  especially  in  matters  of  finance, 
is  exercised  by  a  Conseil  Supt'rieur.  Instruction  is  free  ;  the  university 
is  supported  by  pious  endowments,  from  which  also  bread  and  spending 
money  are  provided  for  the  students.  Within  the  last  few  years  numerous 
'strikes'  have  taken  place  among  the  students  in  consequence  of  the 
alleged  misappropriation  of  the  endowments  by  government.  The  income 
is  now  ^E  28,900  in  cash  annually,  besides  25,000  loaves  of  bread  daily, 
representing  an  annual  addition  of  £E  18,250. 

The  principal  entrance  (PI.  1),  where  strangers  receive  a  guide, 
is  on  the  N.W.  side,  and  is  called  Bah  el-Muzaiyinin,  or  'Gate  of  the 
Barbers',  because  the  students  used  to  have  their  heads  shaved  here. 
To  the  right  of  this  is  the  Mesgid  Taibarsiyeh  (PL  8),  with  a  magni- 
ficent mihrab,  or  prayer-recess ,  of  1309,  and  to  the  left  are  the 
office  of  the  steward  (PL  9),  in  a  restored  mausoleum,  and  the 
Zdwiyet  el-lbtighawtyeh  (PL  10),  now  used  as  a  library  and  contain- 
ing some  rare  MSS. 

The  long  archway  (PL  7),  ending  in  a  portal  added  by  KaVt  Bey 
(by  whom  the  adjacent  minaret  also  was  built),  leads  directly  into 
the  large  Sahn  el-  Gdmi',  or  mosque- court,   enclosed  by  an  arcade 


its  Side  Streets. 


CAIRO. 


4.  Route.    57 


After  Herz-Bet/. 

Gates  :  1.  Bdb  el-Muzaiijinin  ('gate  of  the  bai-hers'),  on  the  W. ;  2.  Bdh  el- 
Qdhargiiieh  ('gate  of  the  jewellers''),  on  the  N. ;  3.  Bdb  es/i-Shorbeh  ('soup 
gate'),  on  the  K.-,  4.  Bdb  es-Sa'dideh  ('gate  of  the  Upper  Egyptians') ;  5.  Bdb 
esft-zSAauwdwi  ('gate  of  the  Syrians');  6.  Bdb  el-Maghdrbeh  ('gate  of  the  North 

West  Africans'),  these  three  on  the  S. 
7.  Archwait.  S.  Mesgid  (mosque)  Taibarsii/eh.  9.  Steward's  of/ice.  10.  Zdwiyet 
fl-Ibtighdw!veh  (library).  —  LIwan  el-Gami%  now  the  principal  hall  for 
instruction.  —  11.  Prayer-rece.ss  of  'Abd  er-Rahman  Kihya.  12.  Dome  in 
front  of  the  old  prayer-niche.  13.  Tomb  of 'Abd  er-Rahman.  14.  Zdwiyet 
Odhargiyeh.  15.  Sebil.  16.  Court  of  Ablutions,  with  Meida  in  the  centre 
and  latrines  all  round.  —  17-27.  Riwaks  (or  rooms  for  study).  17.  Riwdlc 
el-Atrdk  (Turks  from  N.  provinces  of  the  empire)-,  18.  Jiiwdk  el-Maghdrbeh 
(N.W,  Africans);  19.  .Staircase  to  tlie  Itiwdk  eth-Shauwdm  (Syrians);  20. 
Staircase  to  the  Riwdk  el-Baghdddiyin  (natives  of  Baghdad)  and  to  the  Riwdk 
e.l-HunHd  (natives  of  India);  21.  Riwdk  el-Gabart  (E.  Africans  from  the 
Somali  coast,  Zeila',  Berbcra,  and  Tajurra);  22.  Staircase  to  the  Riicdk 
el-Mekkiyin  (natives  of  Mecca);  23.  Riwdk  esh-Shardkiceh  (natives  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Sharkiyeh) ;  24.  A'ftrdi  e2-i^as/'7jj!/«rt  (UpperEgyptians  fromFeshn); 
25.  Riwdk  es-S'dddniyin  (natives'  of  tlie  Sudan) ;  2G.  Riwdk  el-Baldbiseh  (natives 
of  Lower  Egypt);  27.  Riwdk  el-Hariafiyeh  (Hanefltes;  see  p.  Ixxxvi).  —  28. 
Steps  to  the  Terrace  and  to  the  Minaret  of  Ghuri.  29.  Gate  of  the  Okella 
Kdit  Bey  (ruinous  but  interesting  facade).  —  30.  Riwdk  el-'Abbdii. 
Bakdukek's  Egypt.   7th  I<;dit  4 


58    Route  d.  CAIRO.  2.  The  Muski  and 

(restored),  with  Persian  keel-arches,  niches,  medallions,  and  open- 
work pinnacles. 

The  Sanctuary  (Ltwan  el-Gami"),  with  its  nine  aisles,  now  form- 
ing the  principal  lecture-hall,  has  140  marble  columns  (100  antique) 
and  covers  an  area  of  about  3600  sq.  yds.  The  front  and  older  part 
is  low  in  the  ceiling.  The  part  at  the  back,  to  which  we  ascend  by 
a  few  steps,  has  considerably  higher  arcades  (restored).  The  hall  is 
imperfectly  lighted.  A  staircase  to  the  right  of  "^Abd  er-Rahman's 
pulpit  (minbar)  ascends  to  an  upper  story,  which  is  assigned  to 
students  from  Mecca  and  Yemen,  On  the  S.  side  is  the  Tomb  of 
'Abd  er-Rahman  (PI.  13).  The  N.  side  is  bounded  by  the  very 
elegant  little  mosque  of  Zdwiyet  Gohargtyeh  (PI.  14;  restored). 

The  ceilings  of  the  Northern  and  of  the  Southern  Llwan  are 
supported  by  double  colonnades.  The  N.  Liwan  is  adjoined  by  the 
Court  of  Ablutions  (PI,  16),  with  a  basin  in  the  centre. 

The  Lateral  Liwans  and  many  of  the  subsidiary  buildings  of 
the  mosque  are  set  apart  as  sleeping  or  working  apartments  (riwaks, 
literally  'galleries')  for  the  use  of  students  of  particular  countries  or 
of  particular  provinces  of  Egypt  (comp,  the  Plan  and  its  reference 
numbers  17-27,  p.  57).  From  the  W,  angle  of  the  Great  Court  we 
proceed  to  the  Small  Mosque  {Riwdkel-'Abhdsi;  PI,  30),  built  by 
'Abbas  n,,  the  reigning  Khedive,  One  of  its  doors  brings  us  back  to 
the  Shari'  el-Azhar. 

Leaving  the  insignificant  Mosque  of  Mohammed  Bey  Abu  Dahab 
(p,  cxx)  on  the  left,  we  follow  the  Shaui'  es-Sanadikiyeh  (PI.  E,  3), 
called  also  SUk  es-SUddn  or  bazaar  for  wares  from  the  Sudan  (gum, 
dum-palm  nuts,  etc),  which  leads  direct  to  the  Shari'  el-Ashrafiyeh, 
opposite  the  Mosque  of  Ashraf  (p.  53). 

From  the  Shari' el-Ashrafiyeh ,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Mosque  of 
Ashraf,  the  Shaei^  el-Hamzawi  es-SeghIh  (PI.  E,  3j,  with  the  bazaar  of  the 
same  name,  leads  to  the  W.  The  Suk  el-Hamzawi  is  the  bazaar  of  the 
Christian  merchants  (Syrians  and  Copts),  who  vie  with  their  Mohammedan 
fellow-tradesmen  in  the  exorbitance  of  their  demands,  and  whose  chief 
wares  are  European  calico,  porcelain,  and  drugs  (which  last  are  oold  in 
nearly  all  the  bazaars).  This  narrow  winding  street  is  prolonged  to  the 
S.  by  the  Shaei'  el-Hamzawi  el-KebIr,  to  the  left  of  which  (approached 
by  a  side-lane)  is  the  Orthodox  Greek  Church  of  St.  Nicholas  (PI.  D,  E,  3,  4). 
—  Just  at  the  beginning  of  the  Shari'  el-Hamzawi  es-Seghir  we  observe 
on  the  left  the  covered  Shdri'  et-Tarh'yeh  (PI.' E.,  3),  with'  the  Suk  el-'Att&rln, 
or  spice -market,  which  is  easily  distinguished  by  its  arom'atic  odours. 
The  perfumes  of  Arabia,  genuine  and  adulterated,  wax-candles,  and  drugs 
are  the  chief  commodities  here.  Attar  of  roses  is  sold  by  weight  at  high 
prices.  The  small  bottles  into  which  it  is  usually  put  contain  only  one 
drop.  Then  follow  the  weavers  and  tailors.  A  small  lane  to  the  left 
(named  'Atfet  esh-Sharm)  leads  to  the  Ghuri  Mosque  (p.  59). 

The  Shari'  et-Tarbiyeh  is  continued  to  the  S.  by  the  Shdri'  el-Fah- 
hdmin  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  in  which  is  the  bazaar  for  wares  from  Tunis  and 
Algiers.  We  first  observe  drug-stalls  and  then  magazines  for  light-coloured 
woollen  and  other  stuffs,  Arabian  rugs,  etc.  —  We  now  proceed  to  the 
left  direct  to  the  Shari'  el -Ghuri  (p.  59),  or  turn  sharp  to  the  right,  then 
sharp  to  the  left,  and  pursue  the  same  direction,  parallel  with  the  Shari 
el-'^Akkadin  (p.  59)  and  passing  a  number  of  shoemakers'  stalls  (bawdbishi), 


its  Side  Streets.  CAIRO.  d.  Boute.     59 

till  we  come  to  a  broader  covered  passage,  which  we  follow  to  the  right 
for  a  few  paces,  and  then  take  the  first  lane  to  the  left.  This  lane  is  con- 
tinued under  the  name  of  Shdri'  el-Menaggidin  and  is  inhabited  chielly  by 
tailors,  cloth-merchants,  and  dealers  in  undressed  wool.  A  short  abrupt 
curve  of  this  lane,  to  the  left,  then  brings  us  to  the  ShdH'  el-'Akkddin. 

The  Shari'  EL-AsHEAFhEH  forms  the  first  part  of  a  long  line 
of  streets  leading  to  the  S.  and  farther  on  taking  successively  the 
names  of  Shari'  el-Ghuri,  Shari'  el-'Akkadin,  and  Sukkariyeh. 

In  the  Sn.inf  el-Ghuri  the  first  things  to  catch  our  eye  are  the 
beautiful  facades  of  the  medreseh  and  mausoleum  of  Sultan  El- 
GhOri  (PI.  E,  3,  4),  which  have  so  often  been  depicted  by  the  brushes 
of  famous  artists.  The  Medreseh,  to  the  W.  (r.),  was  finished  in 
1503  and  has  a  minaret,  inappropriately  crowned  with  five  modern 
dwarf  cupolas.  The  most  notable  features  of  the  interior  are  the 
beautiful  pulpit  and  the  tasteful  marble  panelling  of  the  lower  part 
of  the  walls.  Opposite  the  medreseh,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  street, 
is  the  Mausoleum,  dating  from  1504.  The  sultan,  who  fell  in  Syria 
(p.  ciix),  is  not,  however,  buried  here.  From  the  rectangular 
vestibule  we  pass  to  the  right  into  the  oratory,  covered  by  a  dome. 
From  this  a  door  leads  into  the  mak'ad  (restored),  or  hall  in  which 
the  sultan  was  wont  to  await  the  hour  of  prayer.  To  the  left  of  the 
vestibule  lies  a  second  chapel,  now  used  as  a  school  office.  Adjacent  is 
a  charming  sebil  with  a  school,  projecting  into  the  street  (p.  clxxxii). 

To  the  E,  of  the  Shari'  el-'Akkadin  lies  the  quarter  of  HQshkadam. 
In  its  main  street  stands  the  "House  of  Gamal  ed-Din  ez-Zah'abi  fNo.  6  \ 
PI.  E,4j,  president  of  the  merchants,  one  of  the  best  preserved  of  the  earlier 
Arabic  private  houses  in  Cairo.  The  building,  generally  known  as  the 
'House  of  the  Bookbinder.s',  dates  from  1637  (visitors  knock ;  2  pias.). 
Through  a  crooked  passage  (dirkeh)  we  reach  the  court  of  the  salamlik, 
or  living-rooms  of  the  owner,  with  two  well-preserved  facades.  In  the 
S.W.  corner  is  a  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  mak'ad.  an  open  colonnade 
with  two  arches.  The  inscription  on  the  cornice  gives  information  about 
the  building.  Adjoining  the  mak^ad  is  an  oriel  window  with  mashra- 
biyehs  (p.  clxxxv),  whence  the  ladies  of  the  harem  could  overlook  the  court. 
Proceeding  in  a  straight  direction  we  enter  the  beautiful  ka'a,  or  drawing- 
room  of  the  harem  (p.  clxxxv),  adorned  with  fine  mosaics.  The  middle  and 
lower-lying  part  of  the  room  is  covered  with  a  wooden  dome,  and  the  flat 
wooden  ceiling  of  the  other  parts  of  the  chamber  is  also  very  beautiful. 

The  Sukkariyeh  (PI.  E,  4)  forms  the  bazaar  for  sugar,  dried 
fruits  (niikl),  fish,  candles,  and  similar  wares.  On  the  left  is  the 
modern  marble  Seb'd  of  Mohammed  Ali,  and  on  the  right  the  — 

**Gami'  el-Muaiyad  (PI.  D,  E,4),  called  also  Garni'  el-Ahmar 
(/.  e.  'the  red  mosque')  after  the  adjoining  Derb  el-Ahmar  (p.  61). 
It  was  erected  by  Sultan  Sheikh  el-Mahmudi  Muaiyad  (p.  cxviii), 
of  the  dynasty  of  the  Circassian  Mamelukes,  who  had  been  defeated 
in  a  rebellion  against  Sultan  Farag  and  vowed  that  he  would  build 
a  mosque  on  this  site  if  he  wore  released  from  prison.  The  mosque 
was  not  finished  till  a  year  after  the  sultans  death  (1422).  The 
three  massive  walls,  intended  to  enclose  three  new  liwans,  wre 
erected  during  a  thorough  restoration  in  the  second  half  of  the 
19th  century  (modern  portions  shaded  grey  on  the  ground -plan, 
p.  60^.    The  bronze  gate  at  the  entrance  (PI.  1),  the  handsomest 


60     Route  4. 


CAIRO. 


2.  The  Muxki  and 


in  Cairo,  originally  belonged  to  tlie  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan 
(p.  66),  but  was  bought  for  the  new  mosque  for  500  dinars.  — 
To  the  left  of  the  vestibule  is  a  bronze-mounted  wooden  door, 
leading  to  the  mausoleum  of  the  sultan  (PI.  2),  which  is  covered 
•with  a  beautiful  dome.  To  the  right  is  a  corridor  (PI.  3)  leading 
to  the  old  but  restored  sanctuary  (PI.  4),  a  magnificent  apart- 
ment with  lofty  stilted  arches.  The  decoration  is  rich  and  effective. 
The  lower  part  of  the  wall  with  its  niches  is  adorned  with  panels 
of  coloured  marble  and  other  stones,  surmounted  by  charming  dwarf 


arcades  with  colonnettes  of  blue  glass -paste  and  a  rich  mosaic 
of  coloured  marbles.  Above  the  niches  are  stucco  windows  and  in- 
scriptions in  finely  carved  and  gilded  letters,  interspersed  with  gilded 
arabesques  and  rosettes.  The  coloured  wooden  ceiling  and  the  inlaid 
ornamentation  of  the  pulpit  (PI.  5)  and  doors  also  deserve  notice. 
This  hall  is  now  used  as  a  lecture-room  when  the  Azhar  Mosque 
(p.  55)  is  over-crowded.  In  the  S.E.  angle  is  the  mausoleum  of  the 
sultan's  family  (PI.  6).  The  sanctuary  is  separated  by  a  modern  iron 
railing  from  the  court,  which  is  planted  with  trees  and  furnished 
with  a  modern  Hanefiyeh,  or  fountain  for  ablution  (PI.  7). 

Immediately  adjoining  the  mosque  is  the  town-gate  B&b  Zu- 
weileh  (PI.  E,  4),  at  the  end  of  the  street.    This  is  built  of  solid 


its  Side  Streets.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.     61 

blocks  of  stone  and  in  plan  resembles  the  two  other  gates  of  the 
Fatimlte  period,  the  Bab  el-Futuh  and  the  Bab  en-Nasr  (_p.  77 ).  It  was 
erected  at  the  end  of  the  11th  cent,  by  Greek  builders  from  Edessa. 
The  S.  side  consists  of  t\¥0  huge  towers,  surmounted  by  the  elegant 
minarets  of  the  Muaiyad  Mosque.  On  the  tower  to  the  W.  are  a 
number  of  stone  and  woodeii  balls,  probably  dating  from  the  Mame- 
1  uke  period.  Tuman  Bey,  the  last  of  the  Circassian  sultans  of  Egypt, 
was  hanged  on  this  tower  by  Sultan  Selim  I.,  on  April  15th,  1517 
(p.  45).  This  gate  is  called  also  Bab  el-Metwaiti,  from  the  old 
tradition  that  the  most  highly  revered  saint  Kutb  el-Metwalli 
(Mutawalli)  has  his  abode  behind  the  W.  half  of  the  gate,  where  he 
sometimes  makes  his  presence  known  by  a  gleam  of  light.  On  both 
wings  of  the  gate  hang  shreds  of  clothing,  teeth,  and  other  votive 
offerings,  placed  here  by  sufferers  in  hope  of  cure.  Opposite  the 
outside  of  the  gate  is  the  sebil  of  Sultan  Farag,  by  the  large  grated 
window  of  which  executions  by  strangulation  took  place  down  to 
tlie  middle  of  the  19th  century. 

From  the  Zuweileh  Gate  the  Derb  kl-Ahmar  (PI.  E,  4)  leads 
towards  the  E.  About  200  yds.  from  the  gate  is  (No.  36)  the  restored 
*Mosque  of  the  Emir  Eijm&s  el-IsMki,  a  small  but  handsome 
building,  erected  in  1481  in  the  style  of  KaitBey.  The  mausoleum, 
which  is  large  in  proportion  to  the  mosque,  long  remained  empty, 
as  Emir  Kijmas  el-Ishaki,  master  of  the  horse  to  Kai't  Bey,  died 
and  was  buried  in  Syria.  In  1851,  however,  the  pious  Sheikh  Abu 
Hureiba  was  interred  here. 

In  the  same  street,  farther  on  named  Shaei'et-Tabbanbh  (PI.  E, 
4,6),  lies  the  *M&.rdS.ni  Mosque  (Qamv  el-Mdrdcini),  one  of  the 
largest  in  Cairo,  built  in  1338-40  by  Emir  Altun  Bogha  el-Mardani, 
cup-bearer  of  Sultan  Mohammed  en-Nasir.  The  building  was  in  a 
thoroughly  ruinous  condition  in  the  19th  cent.,  but  has  recently  been 
restored  by  Ilerz-Pasha.  —  The  nearly  square  court  is  surrounded 
by  colonnades.  The  prayer-niche  and  the  walls  on  each  side  of  it  are 
covered  with  costly  mosaics.  The  new  com^rete  dome  in  front  of  the 
prayer-niche  is  borne  by  superb  ancient  Egyptian  granite  columns. 
The  side-colonnades  also  contain  some  ancient  columns,  probably 
from  a  temple  of  the  period  of  the  Ptolemies.  The  sanctuary,  or 
main  hall,  is  separated  from  the  court  by  an  ancient  wooden  railing, 
much  of  which  has  had  to  be  renewed.  The  Hanefiyeh  in  the  court 
formerly  stood  in  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan  and  here  occupies 
the  site  of  the  original  fountain.  —  The  Shari'  Bab  el-Wezir  goes 
on  to  the  gate  of  that  name  and  to  the  Citadel  (p.  68).  About  half- 
way it  passes  the  picturesque  G.\Mf  Aksunkor  or  Qami'  Ibrahim 
Agha  (PI.  E,  5),  known  also  as  El-Azrak,  or  'the  blue',  from  the  rich 
blue  tiles  on  the  walls.  Built  in  1346  by  the  Emir  Aksunkor, 
this  mosque  was  restored  in  1651  by  Ibrahim  Agha  and  again  in 
modern  times. 

To  the  S.,  immediately  adjoining  the  Zuweileh  Gate,  is  the 


62    Route  4.  CAIRO.  3.  South-EasUm 

Bazaar  of  the  Shoemakers,  at  the  entrance  to  which  (on  the  left)  is 
the  dilapidated  Fatimite  mosque  of  Sdlih  Talayeh  (12th  cent.). 
Farther  on,  in  the  IShdri'  el-Khiyamiyeh^  is  the  bazaar  of  the  tent- 
makers,  where  bright- coloured  tent-covers  may  be  purchased;  and 
this,  in  turn,  ends  at  the  Shari'  Mohammed  'Ali. 

3.  The  South-Eastern  Quarters. 

The  route  described  in  this  section  leads  via  the  Shari'  Mohammed 
'All  to  the  Citadel,  and  thence  by  a  wide  curve  to  the  S.  back  to  the  i>ame 
street.    Tramways,  see  pp.  38,  39  (Nos.  2,  4,  5,  6,  7,  12,  13,  &  17j. 

Starting  from  the  Place  El-'Ataba  el-Khadra  (see  p.  61),  the 
Shaei'  Mohammed  'Alt  (PI.  C-E,  3-6),  1  M.  in  length,  leads  to  the 
S.E.  straight  to  the  foot  of  the  citadel  (tramway  No.  2,  p.  38).  On 
the  left,  about  one-third  of  the  way  down  the  street,  lies  the  Place 
Bab  el-Khalk,  with  the  Administration  Building  (^Gouvemorat;  PI. 
D,  4),  containing  the  Police  Headquarters  (p.  37),  and  the  building 
of  tlie  Arabian  Museum  and  tlie  Kliedlvial  Library  (p.  64). 

The  *Arabian  Museum  (entr.  on  the  E.  side),  consisting  of  ob- 
jects of  artistic  or  antiquarian  interest  from  ruined  mosques  and  other 
Egyptian  buildings,  especially  those  of  Cairo,  is  due  to  the  zeal  of 
Franz-Pasha,  formerly  technical  director  of  the  Wakf  Administration 
(p.  Ixxxvi).  The  constantly  increasing  collections  were  formerly 
exhibited  in  the  mosque  of  El-Hakim  but  were  transferred  in  the 
year  1903  to  the  groundfloor  of  the  present  handsome  new  building 
in  the  Arabic  style.  The  museum  is  open  daily  from  Nov.  to  April, 
except  on  Frid.  and  festivals,  9-4  (adm.  5  pias.);  from  May  to  Oct., 
8-1  (adm.  1  pias.).  Illustrated  English  catalogue  (1907),  20  pias. 
Director,  Max  Herz-Pasha ;  curator,  'All  Bey  Bahgat. 

The  walls  of  the  Vestibule  are  occupied  by  a  chronological  survey 
of  the  Mohammedan  dynasties  of  Egypt.  —  We  pass  to  the  right  into  — 

Room  I.  Tombstones.  Nos.  9-42,  54,  55,  with  Culic  inscriptions; 
64.  Marble  slab  with  inscription  mentioning  an  endowment  of  Saladin  ; 
100.  Inscription  with  the  name  of  Sultan  Ghiiri,  from  the  water-works 
of  Old  Cairo ;  Tombstones  in  the  form  of  columns ;  138a.  Stone  com- 
memorating the  dedication  of  a  fountain  ;  172.  Fine  lamp,  with  the  name 
of  Sultan  Hasan  (14th  cent.). 

Room  II.  Marble  and  other  Stone  Carvings.  No.  26.  Fragment  of  a  cornice 
with  an  eagle  (period  of  the  FatimitesJ ;  39.  Marble  slab  with  fine  orna- 
mentation from  the  mosque  of  Sarghutmash  (14th  cent;  p.  73);  89-114. 
Marble  fragments,  with  inlays  of  "stucco  or  marble;  115-120,  123.  Armorial 
bearings ;  127,  128.  Two  reliefs  with  lions,  made  from  the  bases  of  Roman 
columns;  132  et  seq..  Stone  jars  with  their  stands;  156-172.  Capitals  of 
columns,  including  an  ancient  Egyptian  one  from  the  mosque  of  Milrdani 
(p.  61);  175,  176.  Coptic  columns;  177-185.  Shafts  of  Arabian  columns,  with 
•sculptures  from  prayer-niches ;  186,  18S.  Two  columns  from  the  mosque  of 
Kait  Bey  in  Medinet  el-Faiyum;  192.  Fragment  of  the  Nilometer  atRoda; 
193.  Hanging  lamp  from  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan. 

Room  III.  Stone  Sculptures,  Works  in  Plaster,  and  Mosaics.  Mosaic 
pavement  from  the  Mahmudiyeh  mosque  (p.  63);  2.  Slab  of  a  fountain  from 
the  sebil  of  Sultan  Farag,  with  representations  of  animals  (Persian);  8-10. 
Capitals  of  ancient  columns  which  have  been  used  for  well-curbs;  23-30. 
Mosaics  from  the  walls  of  a  house  (conventional  ornamental  inscription 
on  No.  23);  35.  Cast  of  an  engaged  column  from  the  Tuluu  mosque  (p.  71), 


Quarters. 


CAIRO. 


4.  Route.    06 


with  its  original  capital ;  37.  Plaster  window-tracery  from  the  mosque 
of  Salih  TalSyeh ;  39-46.  Plaster  ornaments  from  the  moaqae  of  El-Kamil, 
with  inscriptious  and  arabesque  ornamentation;  51,  52.  Plaster  windows 
from  the  mosque  of  Mardani ;  54.  Fine  window  from  the  Kijmas  mosque; 
57.  Tasteful  modern  window;  63,  64.  Hanging  lamp  from  the  mosque  of 
Sultan  Hasan. 

Room  IV.  Wood  Carvingt.  Pulpits,  Koran  reading-desks.  No.  1. 
Coptic  door  from  the  Kalaun  mosque;  95-97.  Prayer-niches  in  carved 
wood;  101-103.  Cenotaphs  (No.  101  from  a  tomb  near  the  tomb-mosque  of 
the  Imam  Shafi'i);  104  etseq.,  Reading-desks. 

Room  V.  Wood  Carvings,  Fret  Work,  and  Turned  Work.  Mashrabiyehs. 
No.  1 .  Door  from  the  tom  b-mosqne  of  Sultan  Bs-Salih  Aiy  ub  (13th  cent.) ;  21-23. 
Balconies ;  24-31.  Perforated  wood- 
carvings  CNo.  27.  from  the  mo.sque 
iif  the  Imam  Shafi'i,  of  especially 
delicate  execution);  3o.  Bronze  lamp 
from  the  mosque  of  '.-Vbd  el-Basit. 

Room  VI.  Wood  Carvings.  Speci- 
mens of  carved  wood  illustrating 
the  development  of  Arabic  orna- 
mentation; ceilings;  painted  frag- 
ments of  wood;  wooden  doors  with 
fine  inlays  of  ivory :  1.  Carved  portal ; 
25a.  Carving  of  the  Fatimite  period, 
with  animal-deaigns ;  198.  Carving 
from  the  mosque  of  El-Ashraf  Bars 
Eey.  —  From  the  Turkish  period  : 
205,  206.  Carvings  from  the  mosque 
of  Suleiman  Pasha  (p.  70);  214.  Carv- 
ing from  Damietta. 

Room  VII.  Wood  Carvings.  Old 
wooden  ceilings.  —  Wood-carvings 
from  doors  :  to  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance, -4,  5.  from  a  cenotaph  of  the 
Aiyubide  period.  —  Show-cases  A-D 
contain  smaller  wood-carvings,  most 
of  them  inlaid  with  ivory  8  (No.  16, 
in  A,  Eagle  and  hare).  —  142-145. 
Locks;  146,  147,  149.  Wooden  tables 
(Kursi);  148.  Wooden  table  with 
fine  mosaic  from  the  mosque  of 
Sultan  Sha'ban.  —  °156.  Koran-case 
with  mosaic  and  elegant  hinges,  from 
the  same  mosque.  Such  boxes  have 
always  30  compartments  ,  arranged 
in  three  rows,  for  the  30  books  of 
the  Koran.     Small  chest  inlaid  with 

ivory.  —    176.  Richly  painted  and  gilded  wooden  ceiling 
of  Suleiman  Sari. 

KooM  VIII  (to  the  left  of  R.  VII).  Chairs,  Benches,  Cupboard  Doors, 
Mashrabiyehs.  —  Minbars  or  pulpits.  —  Jlosaic  pavement  and  fountain 
from  an  Arab  house  in  the  Hihniyeh,  Cairo. 

Room  IX.  Works  in  Metal.  Bronze-mounted  doors:  1.  from  the  mosque 
of  Salih  Talayeh  (12th  cent.);  2.  from  the  tomb -mosque  of  Imam  Shafi'i 
(13th  cent!);  3.  from  the  convent-mosque  of  Bars  Bey  tl5thcent.);  6.  from 
the  mosque  of  Princess  Tatar  el-Hegaziyeh  (14th  cent.).  —  Table  Case  A: 
9-13.  Candlesticks  (No.  9 'inlaid  with  silver).  —  Table  Case  B:  15.  Koran- 
case,  with  elaborate  brass  cover  and  silver  ornamentation;  14a.  Writing 
utensils.  —  Central  Case:  19.  Fine  brazen  dish;  22.  Brazen  vessel  with 
ornaments  and  arms.  —  Cases  C  it;  D:  Choice  bronze  vessels.  —  Case  O: 
Two  fine  rifles;  weapons  ;  gold  coins.  —  In  the  glass-cases  beside  the  middle 
window  are  ornamental  'Swords  and  rifles.  —  105,  106.  Small  brass  tables 
richly  inlaid  with  silver  (No.  105  with  the  name  of  Sultan  Na-sir,  14th  cent.); 


from  the  sebil 


64    Route  4.  CAIRO.  3.  South-Eastern 

107.  Bronze  grating  with  silver  ornamentation ;  110-123.  Pine  metal  lustres 
(No.  110  belonging  to  Sultan  Ahmed ,  14th  cent. ;  115  &  115a  from  the  mosque 
of  Kait  Bey,  at  Medinet  el-Faiyum;  123  from  the  Ghuri  mosque). 

Room  X.  Works  in  Metal.  Door-mounts,  bands  bearing  inscriptions, 
knockers,  doors  with  bronze  mounts.  — 91.  Door  studded  with  iron  nails; 
92,  93.  Doors  from  the  mosque  of  Seiyideh  Zeinab ;  130,  130a.  Scales  inlaid 
with  silver;  136.  Bronze  chandelier  from  the  mosque  ofEl-Ghiiri;  94-102. 
Crescents  from  domes  and  minarets. 

Room  XI.  Fayence  (that  on  the  E.  wall  native,  that  on  the  W.  wall 
imported  from  other  oriental  countries).  Fayence  tiles,  including  several 
with  carnations  and  one  with  a  representation  of  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca 
(made  at  Damascus  in  1726).  —  The  show-cases  contain  glazed  vessels, 
pottery,  dishes  of  various  kinds;  107  etc.,  Lamps  and  lamp-weights;  frag- 
ments of  fayence.  Case  I:  B.  Fragments  of  fayence  bearing  coats-of-arms; 
D.  Magnificent  cornelian  dish,  from  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Kalaun,  a  beauti- 
ful specimen,  17^/4  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  high,  with  19  cut  facets 
on   the  edge.    Case  F:  Lamps;  dishes  with  fine  glaze. 

Room  XII.  Fayence.  Fayence  tiles  of  European  manufacture,  such 
as  were  used  to  line  the  walls  of  rab  houses  in  the  18-19th  centuries.  — 
On  the  wall  to  the  right.  Stucco  decorations  of  an  Arab  room  from  a  house 
in  Old  Cairo.  Below,  72-74.  Carved  doors  from  Mehalleh  el-Kubra.  The 
cases  contain  vessels  from  Rhodes,  Moorish  dish  (52),  Persian  and  Syrian 
tiles,  and  Celadon  vases  (64-67). 

Room  XIII.    Plaster  Casts.  —  Small  Arab  room  from  Rosetta  (restored). 

Room  XIV.  Textiles.  First  glass-case  to  the  right:  1.  Piece  of  silk  with 
the  name  of  Ma'mun,  son  and  successor  of  Harun  er-Rashid;  5.  Piece  of 
silk  with  the  design  of  two  birds  seated  facing  each  other  (12th  cent.) ; 
0.  Fabric  with  the  name  of  Sultan  Nasir  (14th  cent.);  7.  Fabric  with  a 
double-headed  eagle;  8.  Waistcoat;  10.  Fabric  with  finely  worked  inscrip- 
tions; 11.  Fabric  with  printed  patterns  and  inscriptions.  Two  show-tables 
and  frames  contain  oriental  book-covers.  — 31,  32.  Koran -cases  covered 
with  leather,  with  embossed  ornamentation  and  inscriptions  (No.  31  from 
the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan,  the  other  bearing  the  name  of  the  donor, 
Sultan  El-Ghuri).  In  a  glass-case  is  a  map  with  a  compass,  within  the 
cover  of  which  is  a  representation  of  the  Kaaba  in  lacquer-work. 

Room  XV.  "Enamelled  Hanging  Lamps  from  Mosques,  most  of  them 
made  of  light  green  gla.ss,  with  enamelled  flowers,  foliage,  inscriptions, 
medallions,  and  coats-of-arms.  The  oldest  of  these  dates  from  the  13th 
century.  The  place  of  manufacture  is  unknown.  Only  about  a  hundred 
of  these  lamps  are  now  extant;  most  of  those  in  this  museum  (over  60) 
are  from  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan  (p.  66).  The  finest  specimens  are 
(in  Case  A)  No.  1,  with  the  titles  of  Sultan  Ashraf  Khalil;  5,  with  the 
arms  of  a  OAkdnddr  or  'mallet-bearer'  (i.e.  the  Mameluke  in  charge  of  the 
game  of  polo) ;  (in  Case  B)  7,  with  the  arms  of  the  cup-bearer  Shekhuh ; 
(in  Cases  G  &  H)  "51-56.  Specimens  from  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan. 

Room  XVI.  Hanging  Lamps  (see  above).  Adjoining  the  exit,  pictures 
of  the  sacred  cities  Medina  (r.)  and  Mecca  (1.).  —  Among  recent  additions 
to  the  museum  is  a  rich  Collection  of  Oriental  Carpets. 

On  the  first  floor  of  the  Arabian  Museum  is  the  *Khedivial 
Library  (^Kutubkhaneh;  special  entrance  from  the  Shari'  Mohammed 
'Ali),  founded  in  1870  by  the  Khedive  Isma'il  by  uniting  the  li- 
braries of  several  institutions  and  mosques,  and  regularly  added  to 
since.  The  chief  credit  of  arranging  this  fine  collection  of  books 
belongs  to  four  Germans,  Dr.  Stern,  Dr.  Spitta-Bey,  Dr.  Toilers, 
and  Dr.  Moritz.  Present  Director,  Dr.  Schade.  The  whole  library 
consists  of  over  75,500  vols.  (12,000  MSS.),  of  which  32,000  are 
in  oriental  languages  (Arabic,  Persian,  Turkish,  Amharic,  and 
Syrian).    The  Koran  alone  accounts  for  no  fewer  than  2677  volumes. 


Quarters.  CAIRO,  4.  Route.    65 

The  illuminated  Persian  MSS.  are  extremely  valuable.  The  library 
contains  also  a  collection  of  coins  (upwards  of  3800)  of  the  Moham- 
medan rulers  of  Egypt.  —  The  reading-room  is  open  daily,  except 
on  Frid.  and  official  festivals,  from  8  to  one  hour  before  sunset  (in 
July,  Aug.,  and  Sept.  8-1;  during  Ramadan  10-2).  Visitors  to  the 
otber  rooms  require  a  special  permit  from  the  director,  while  those 
who  wish  to  borrow  books  must  obtain  a  guarantee  from  some  high 
official  or  other  personage  in  Cairo  known  to  the  director. 

The  Show  Koom  (open  tree,  9-4)  contains  coins  and  specimens  of 
oriental  MS^^.  and  printed  works.  We  begin  with  the  table-cases  to  the 
right.  —  S/ielves  1,  2.  Arabic  papyri  (7-9th  cent):  Shelves  3-5.  Arabic  docu- 
ments on  paper,  parchment,  and  potsherds  (8-1.3th  cent.);  Shelf  6.  Early 
Arabic  books  (9-13th  cent.) ;  Shelf  7.  Autographs  of  famous  oriental  authors  ; 
Shelf  8.  Arabic  MSS.  from  North  Africa  and  Spain  (li-17th  cent.).  — 
Shelves  9-20.  Fine  examples  of  the  Koran.  These  are  remarkable  for  their 
large  size,  superb  execution,  and  great  age.  The  Mohammedans  have 
always  exercised  the  greatest  care  in  preparing  the  MSS.  of  the  Koran, 
and  have  always  regarded  the  sacred  book  which  was  sent  to  them  from 
heaven  with  the  most  profound  reverence.  The  oldest  specimens  of  the 
Koran  (Shelves  9  seq.),  dating  from  the  8-lOth  cent.,  are  in  the  C'lific,  or 
early-.\rabic,  character  and  are  written  on  parchment.  Among  the  fine 
large  copies  of  the  Koran  on  paper  which  were  executed  for  the  sultans  of 
the  Bahrite  Mamelukes  (1250-1382)  and  their  emirs,  the  most  notable  are 
those  (Shelves  14  seq.)  made  for  the  Sultans  Hasan  and  Sha'ban  and  their 
emirs  Shekhuh  and  Sarghutmash  (14th  cent.).  —  Shelves  21-36:  Korans 
of  the  14-15th  cent,  made  for  the  Emirs  Ki.jmas  and  Arghiin  and  the  Cir- 
cassian Mameluke  Sultans  Barkuk,  Farag,  Muaiyad,  and  Bars  Bey ;  Korans 
and  other  books  of  the  15th  cent.,  prepared  for  the  Sultans  Hoshkadam, 
Kait  Bey,  and  El-Ghiiri.  The  largest  Koran  in  the  collection,  measuring 
443/4  by  35  inches,  belonged  to  Kait  Bey.  —  Shelf  37.  Korans  of  the  14- 
15th  cent.  (Mameluke  period).  — '  Shelf  38.  Korans  written  in  India.  —  On 
one  of  the  shelves  is  a  collection  of  coins. 

Shelves  39-44.  'Persian  MSS.  with  miniatures.  The  origin  and  develop- 
ment of  this  branch  of  art  have  not  yet  been  adequately  investigated.  The 
specimens  here  exhibited  are  all  the  work  of  Mohammedan  artists,  though 
the  influence  of  E.  Asiatic  taste  is  noticeable  in  those  of  later  date.  These 
book-illu.'itrations  are  distinguished  from  the  purely  ornamental  art  of  the 
Korans  by  a  greater  freedom  of  conception  and  variety  of  motive,  particularly 
by  the  frequent  employment  of  living  forms.  Nearly  all  are  illustrations 
of  poetical  or  historical  works.  The  chronological  arrangement  shows  that 
this  art  was  at  its  best  in  the  14-16th  cent.,  and  that  thereafter  a  rapid 
decline  set  in.  Shelf  39.  'Divan  of  the  poems  of  Farid  id-Din  Attar,  written 
in  1454;  Poems  of  Jami,  written  in  the  N.E.  Provinces  of  India,  perhaps 
in  the  17th  century.  Shelf  40.  Anthology  of  Persian  poetry,  written  for 
the  library  of  Sultan  Bayazid  (15th  cent.);  Persian  MSS.  of  the  16th  cent: 
•Bustan  of  Sa'di.  Shelf  41.  Korans  written  by  Persians.  Shelf  42.  Korans 
and  other  books  written  by  Indians  ;  two  albums  with  Indian  mmiatures 
and  autographs  of  celebrated  Persian  and  Turkish  calligraphers  (16iO-1703); 
tlie  poem  of  Yusuf  and  Zuleika,  by  Jami,  written  in  lliOl,  with  full-page 
illustrations.  Shelf  43.  Persian  miniatures  of  the  15-lHth  cent. ;  a  second 
specimen  of  Jami's  poem  of  Yiisuf  and  Zuleika,  written  in  1533  ;  the  Cosmo- 
graphy of  Kazwini  (1567),  translated  into  Persian,  with  diagrams  in  the  E. 
Asiatic  stvle  ;  two  MSS.  of  Mehr  and  Mushtari,  a  poem  by  Assar  (1493) ;  several 
MSS.  of  the  Shahnameh  or  Book  of  Kings  of  Firdausi^  Shelf  44.  Persian 
miniatures  of  the  1G-I7th  cent.  5  three  copies  of  the  Divan  of  Hafiz  of  Shiraz 
(1556,  1565,  and  1630);  Gulistan  of  the  poet  Sa'di,  written  by  Sultan  Mo- 
hammed Nir  (16th  cent.).  —  Shelf  45,  Korans  written  by  Turks.  Shelf  46. 
Tnrkish  MSS.  with  miniatures;  a  copy  of  the  Kudatku  Bilik,  the  first  work 
of  Turkish  literature  in  Arabic  characters,  composed  about  1110  and  written 
in  Cairo    about  1350;    Cosmography   of  Kazwini  (Oct.,    1553).    —   Shelf  47. 


66    Route  4.  CAIRO.  3.  South-Eastern 

Turkish  albums  (16-17th  cent.);  Shelf  48.  Aatographs  of  Turkish  saltans; 
Shelf  49.  Arabic  books,  printed  in  Africa  (Zanzibar,  Sudan,  Egypt,  Tunis, 
Algiers,  Fez);  Shelf  60.  Arabic  books  printed  in  Asia  (China,  East  Indies, 
Persia,  etc.),  and  also  the  earliest  European  specimens ;  Shelves  51-54.  Arabic, 
Persian,  and  Turkish  book-bindings.  On  the  walls :  Koran  written  for  the 
Sultan  Oedyaitu  of  Persia  (1311)  and  later  (1326)  acquired  by  the  Mameluke 
Sultan  Nasir,  with  wonderful  ornameutation. 

From  the  Bab  el-Khalk  Square  we  continue  to  follow  the  Shari' 
Mohammed  'All.  About  1/4  M.  farther  on  a  side-street  leads  to  the 
left  to  the  Oami'  el-Malika  Safiya  (PI,  D,  5),  a  Turkish- Arabian 
mosque  of  1611,  with  a  dome  borne  by  six  monolithic  antique  col- 
umns and  ornamentation  in  the  Byzantine-Arabian  style.  Behind 
it,  in  the  Shari'  ed-Daudiyeh,  lies  the  small  *Mosque  of  El-Burdeini 
(PI.  D,  6),  built  in  1630  and  restored  in  1885,  lavishly  adorned 
with  mosaics,  and  adjoined  by  an  elegant  minaret.  The  beautiful 
wooden  ceilings  and  the  elaborate  pulpit  are  especially  notable. 

Farther  on  the  Shari'  Mohammed  'Ali  passes  the  much  altered 
mosque  of  El-Keisun  (^Asdn' ;  PI.  D,  5)  and  leads  to  a  large  square 
adorned  with  gardens  in  front  of  two  large  mosques.  That  on  the 
left  is  the  G&,mr  Rif&.'iyeh,  a  handsome  columned  edifice  com- 
pleted in  1912.  It  stands  on  the  site  of  the  tomb  of  Sheikh  ''Aii 
Rifa'i  and  contains  the  family  burial-vault  of  the  Khedive  Isma'il 
(_d.  1895).  —  On  the  right  rises  the  — 

**Gfi,mi' Sult&n  Hasan  (PI.  E,  6),  the  'superb  mosque',  and  the 
finest  existing  monument  of  Egypto- Arabian  architecture.  It  was 
built  in  1356-59  for  Sultan  Hasan  (p.  cxviii),  perhaps  by  a  Syrian 
architect,  and  has  been  restored  byHerz-Pasha.  The  huge  proportions 
of  the  building,  which  occupies  a  shelving  rock  below  the  citadel, 
taken  in  conjunction  with  the  masterly  execution  of  its  details,  pro- 
duce an  effect  of  great  majesty.   Admission,  see  p.  43. 

The  exterior  recalls  the  broad  surfaces  of  the  early-Egyptian 
temples.  All  the  facades  are  crowned  by  a  unique  and  boldly  pro- 
jecting cornice  of  'stalactite'  formation  and  furnished  with  pinnacles 
(restored).  The  broad  wall-surfaces  are  relieved  by  blind  recesses 
and  round-arched  windows  in  couples.  The  mausoleum,  which  pro- 
jects boldly  from  the  S.E.  fa(;ade,  is  covered  by  a  dome  (180  ft.  high), 
said  to  have  been  originally  egg-shaped  but  reconstructed  after  1616 
in  the  Turkish-Arabian  style.  The  N.W.  facade  is  unfinished.  — 
The  massive  **6ateway  (PI.  1),  85  ft.  high,  though  its  ornamen- 
tation was  never  fully  carried  out,  has  been  more  or  less  imitated 
in  many  other  Egyptian  mosques.  The  original  magnificent  bronze 
gate  now  adorns  the  mosque  of  Muaiyad  (p.  59).  — •  The  S.  Minaret 
(PI.  11a;  285  ft.  high)  is  the  highest  minaret  in  Cairo  (that  of 
El-Ghuri  213  ft.,  Kalaun  193  ft.,  El -Muaiyad  167  ft.,  El-Azhar 
167  ft.,  Kait  Bey  and  Barkuk  164  ft.,  Tulun  131  ft.,  'Amr  105  ft.). 
The  minaret  (PL  lib)  at  the  E.  corner  was  overthrown  by  an  earth- 
quake, but  was  afterwards  rebuilt  on  a  smaller  scale. 

The  building  is  in  the  form  of  an  irregularpentagon,  85,000  sq.ft. 


Quarters. 


CAIKO. 


4.  Route.    67 


ill  area,  iu  which  the  cruciform  shape  of  the  original  Medreseh 
(p.  clxxx)  has  been  skilfully  incorporated.  —  From  the  main  en- 
trance (PI.  1)  we  enter  first  a  domfed  vestibule  (PI.  2)  and  then  a 
smaller  anteroom,  whence  steps  ascend  to  the  corridor  (PI.  3),  ad- 
joining the  large  Sahn  el-Gami'  or  mosque-court  (115  ft.  long  and 
105  ft.  broad).  In  the  centre  of  the  court  is  the  Meida  (PI.  4). 
The  four  arms  of  the  cross  are  occupied  by  four  large  halls  (liwan), 
with  lofty  barrel -vaulting.  These  serve  as  praying  rooms.  The 
lecture-rooms  for  the  four  orthodox  schools  of  Jslam  (p.  Ixxxvl) 


1.  Chief  Entrance  (from  the  Sharr  Mohammed  'Ali).'  2.  Vestibule.  3.  Corri- 
dor. 4.  Meida  (fountain  for  ablutions).'  6.  Dikkeh.  7.  Prayer-recess  (kibla). 
8.  Pulpit  (minbar).  9.  Mausoleum  of  Sultan  Hasan.  10.  S.  Entrance.  11a 
and  b.  Minarets.  12.  Medresehs  (lecture -rooms)  for  the  four  schools  of 
Islam.    13.  Old  court  of  ablutions  in  the  sunk  floor  (ruinous). 


were  fitted  up  in  the  four  small  medresehs  (PI.  12).  The  Liwan  el- 
Gamf  or  sanctuary  has  as  its  chief  embellishment  an  elaborate  in- 
scribed *Frieze,  cut  in  the  stucco  and  much  restored,  with  line  Cuflc 
letters  on  a  tasteful  background  of  arabesques.  The  rear  wall,  with 
the  prayer-recess,  is  adorned  with  marble.  The  only  remains  of  the 
once  sumptuous  fittings  of  this  hall  are  the  dikkeh  (PI.  6),  the  pulpit 
(PI.  8),  with  a  wooden  door,  inlaid  with  gold  and  silver  and  mounted 
with  bronze,  and  the  chains  of  the  innumerable  lamps  (p.  64).  To 
the  right  of  the  pulpit  is  a  bronze  door  (now  closed),  damascened 
with  gold  and  silver,  leading  to  the  mausoleum.  The  present  en- 
trance to  the  Mausoleum  (PI.  9)  is  an  iron  door  to  the  left  of  the  pul- 
pit. The  square  domed  apartment,  with  the  simple  sarcophagus  of 
the  sultan,  has  a  beautiful  inscribed  frieze  of  carved  wooden  letters. 
The  stalactitic  pendentives  of  the  original  dome  still  exist.  The 
ceiling  and  the  painted  friezes  have  been  partly  restored. 


68    Route  4.  CAIRO.  3.  South-Eastern 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan  extends  the  large 
*Place  Saladin  {Mtdan  Saladin;  PI.  E,  6, 7),  the  finest  square  in  the 
city,  at  Viscount  Kitchener's  instigation  formed  in  1913  out  of  the 
Place  Rumeileh  and  Place  Mohammed  AH  by  the  demolition  of  several 
small  streets  and  buildings.  At  the  N.  end  of  the  Place,  on  slightly 
elevated  ground,  stand  two  mosques,  the  6dmi'  el-Mahm.ildtyeh  and 
the  Gdmi'  Emir  Akhor  (PI.  E,  6).  On  the  E.  side  rises  the  citadel 
(see  below),  with  the  Bdb  el-Azah  (PI.  E,6),  flanked  with  its  huge 
towers.  Along  the  E.  side  of  the  Place  extends  the  Shdri'  Mastabet 
el-Mahmal;  in  its  S.  part  is  the  Stik  el-Kasr,  the  scene  of  a  busy 
afternoon  market.  Here  also  take  place  the  festivities  on  the  depart- 
ure of  the  Mecca  Caravan  (comp.  pp,  xcvl,  xcvii).  At  the  S.  end 
of  the  Place  are  the  Prison  and,  farther  on,  the  gate  named  Bdb  el- 
Kardfeh  (P1.E,7).  —  Taking  the  Shari'Dayir  er-Rifa'i,  which  leads 
round  the  Gami'  Rifa'iyeh  to  the  square  mentioned  on  p.  66,  we 
see  on  the  right,  on  a  rocky  hill,  the  small  Gohar  Mosque  (PI.  E,  6). 

From  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Place  Saladin  the  citadel  is  ap- 
proached by  the  Shari'  el-Mahgar,  a  carriage-road,  and  then  by  the 
winding  Shari'  Bab  el-Gedid,  whith  a  view  of  the  Tombs  of  the 
Caliphs  (to  the  left).  Foot-passengers  ascend  by  the  Shari'  ed- 
Defterkhaneh,  passing  the  Government  Archives  (Defterkhaneh; 
PI.  E,  F,  6),  built  by  Mohammed  Ali  in  1828,  or,  quitting  the 
Place  Saladin  by  the  Bab  el-'Azab  (see  above),  proceed  straight  on 
by  a  narrow  and  crooked  lane,  enclosed  by  lofty  walls.  It  was  in 
this  lane,  formerly  the  chief  approach  to  the  citadel,  that  the  mas- 
sacre of  the  Mamelukes  took  place  on  March  Ist,  1811,  by  order  of 
Mohammed  Ali  (p.  cxxi)  Amin  Bey,  the  only  one  who  survived,  is 
said  to  have  escaped  by  making  his  horse  leap  into  the  moat. 

The  Citadel  {El-KaVa;  PI.  E,  F,  6)  was  built  in  1179  by 
Saladin  (p.  46),  with  stones  taken,  according  to  the  very  credible 
statements  of  Arabian  historians,  from  the  small  pyramids  at  Gizeh. 
Of  the  original  structure,  however,  nothing  now  remains  except  the 
outer  E.  wall  and  a  few  towers  in  the  interior.  Although  the  fortress 
commands  the  city,  it  is  itself  commanded  by  the  heights  of  the 
Mokattam,  rising  above  it  immediately  to  the  S. ;  thus  in  1805  Mo- 
hammed Ali  was  enabled,  by  means  of  a  battery  planted  on  the  Gebel 
Giyushi  (p.  116),  to  compel  Khurshid  Pasha  to  surrender  the  Citadel. 
—  We  enter  the  outer  court  of  the  Citadel  by  the  Bab  el-Gedtd 
(PI.  F,  6;  'New  Gate'),  and  then  pass  through  the  Bdb  el-Wastdni 
('Middle  Gate')  into  the  main  court,  where  the  Alabaster  Mosque 
rises  in  front  of  us,  with  the  En-Nasir  Mosque  to  the  left. 

The  *Gami' Mohammed 'Ali  (PI.  E,  F,  6;  tickets,  see  p.  43; 
slippers  1  pias.),  or  'Alabaster  Mosque',  the  lofty  and  graceful 
minarets  of  which  are  so  conspicuous  from  a  distance  as  to  form 
one  of  the  landmarks  of  Cairo,  was  begun  by  Mohammed  Ali,  the 
founder  of  the  present  Egyptian  dynasty,  on  the  site  of  a  palace 
which  was  blown  up  in  1824 ;  and  in  1857  it  was  completed  in  its 


Quarters. 


CAIRO. 


4.  Route.    69 


South  -  Kast 


present  form  by  Sa'id  Pasha  (p.  cxxii ).  The  architect  was  the  Greek 
Yusuf  Boshna  of  Constantinople,  wlio,  aided  hy  Greek  foremen, 
built  it  on  the  model  of  the  Nuri  Osmaniyeh  mosque  at  Constanti- 
nople. The  columTis  are  built,  and  the  walls  incrusted,  with  poor 
yellow  alabaster.  Wood 
painted  to  resemble  ala- 
baster is  used  also. 

The  Entrance  (PI.  9), 
near  the  centre  of  the  N. 
side,  leads  directly  into 
X.\\cSdhnel-Gami'  {P\.  10), 
or  Court,  enclosed  by 
vaulted  galleries,  in  the 
upper  parts  of  which  plain 
limestone  has  been  used 
instead  of  alabaster.  In 
the  centre  is  the  Haneftyeh 
(PI.  11),  or  basin  for  ab- 
lution, in  the  debased 
Turkish  style.  On  the  W. 
side  is  the  approach  to  a 
tower  (PI.  13),  which  ter- 
minates in  a  pavilion 
with  Moorish  arabesques 
and  contains  a  clock  pre- 
sented to  Mohammed  Ali 
by  Louis  Philippe. 

The  Interior  is  en- 
tered through  the  centre 
of  the  E.  gallery  of  the 
court.  It  consists  of  si 
large  quadrangle, with  By- 
zantine domes  resting  on 
4  huge  square  pillars. 
The  size  of  the  place  and 
the  manner  in    which   it 


1.  Sultan's  Entrance.     2.  Kursi.     3.    Pulpit. 

■i.  I'rayer-recess.   5.  Tomb  ot'BIohammed  Ali. 

7.  Kntrance.  8.  Great  Gallery.  9.  Usual  En- 
is  lighted  produce  a  very  trance.  10.  Sahn  el-6ami^  11.  Hanefiyeli. 
striking  impression.  The  J?.  Openings-  to  the  great  cistern  under 
„,     ,  .  ?   ,    '^      ..        .  the  court.     13.    Ascent   to   the   dock-tower. 

lurkish  decoration  is  uii-  14   point  of  view, 

important,  and  the  read- 
ing-desk, pulpit,  and  prayer-recess  (PI.  2,  3,  4)  possess  no  parti- 
cular attraction.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  Tomb  of 
Mohammed  Ail  (A.  1849),  enclosed  by  a  handsome  railing  (PI.  5). 
A  magnificent  **Vik-w  is  obtained  from  the  parapet  at  the-  W. 
angle  of  the  mosque  (PI.  14),  which  is  reached  by  walking  round 
outside  the  building,  within  the  railing.  From  this  point  we  survey 
the  yellowisli-grey  city,   with  its  countless  minarets,  domes,   and 


70    Route  4.  CAIRO.  3.  South-EaHem 

gardens.  At  our  feet  stands  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan.  To  the 
N.  and  N.W.  are  the  Windmill  Hills  and  the  green  plain  traverseg 
by  the  Nile.  To  the  "W.,  in  the  distance,  are  the  Pyramids,  towerind 
above  the  desert.  On  the  flat  roofs  of  the  houses  we  observe  in- 
numerable ventilators,  called  malkaf,  by  means  of  which  the  cool 
north-wind  is  introduced  into  the  houses. 

The  Gimr  en-Nasir  (PI.  F,  6)  was  erected  in  1317  by  Sultan 
En-Nasir.  Long  used  as  a  military  magazine  and  storehouse,  it  is 
in  a  dilapidated  condition.  It  exhibits  traces  of  the  Romanesque 
taste  on  the  exterior,  particularly  on  the  portals.  The  two  curious 
minarets  are  surmounted  by  bulbous  cupolas  adorned  with  bright- 
coloured  fayence  tiles  in  the  Persian  style.  The  sadly  misused  liwans, 
in  the  construction  of  which  some  fine  ancient  Byzantine  columns 
were  used,  still  retain  their  painted  cassetted  ceilings.  The  dome 
in  front  of  the  prayer-recess  rests  upon  ancient  Egyptian  granite 
columns,  but  only  the  drum  now  remains. 

The  entrance  to  tlie  barracks  opposite  the  N.E.  facade  of  the  Garni' 
en-Nasir  leads  to  the  small  Garni''  Suleiman  Basha  (PI.  F,  6),  also  called 
Sdryat  or  Sisariyeh,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  citadel,  which  was  erected  in 
1528  by  Suleiman,  one  of  the  Mamelukes  of  Sultan  Selim.  The  architecture 
is  a  mixture  of  Arabian  and  Turkish.  The  mosque  contains  Cufic  inscrip- 
tions, marble  mosaics,  a  decorated  prayer-recess,  and  a  pulpit  in  marble. 
In  the  N.E.  comer  of  the  forecourt  is  the  tomb  of  the  saint  Saryat. 

By  skirting  the  N.E.  and  S.E.  sides  of  the  Gami'  en-Na.?ir  we  reach 
the  so-called  Well  of  Joseph  (Bir  YHsuf;  PI.  F,  6),  a  square  shaft,  with  a 
spiral  passage  around  it,  sunk  in  the  limestone  rock  to  a  depth  of  290  ft. 
Within  the  shaft,  at  a  depth  of  about  155  ft.,  is  a  platform  on  which  the 
oxen  stood  that  brought  the  water  to  the  surface  by  means  of  a  sakiyeh. 
The  well  was  sunk  by  Saladin  to  provide  the  citadel  with  water,  but  has 
lost  its  importance  since  the  completion  of  the  new  water-works.  The 
name  is  due  to  the  legend  that  this  was  the  well  into  which  the  Joseph 
of  Scripture  was  put  by  his  brethren. 

A  narrow  lane  leads  from  Joseph's  Well  to  the  Bdb  el-Oebel  (PI.  F,  6; 
'mountain-gate'),  the  S.  main  gate  of  the  citadel,  whence  a  road  leads 
straight  to  the  Mokattam  (p.  116).  A  road  diverging  to  the  right  a  little 
farther  on  leads  to  the  Monastery  of  the  Bektashi  (Deir  el-Maganri),  a 
Turkish  order  of  Dervishes,  situated  among  green  palms  on  a  bare  moun- 
tain-slope (visitors  admitted).  [The  monastery  may  be  reached  also  from 
the  Place  Saladin  via  the  narrow  lanes  between  the  Tombs  of  the  Mame- 
lukes and  the  citadel.]  An  easy  staircase  ascends  to  a  court,  in  which 
are  situated  the  residences  of  the  monks.  The  garden  in  front  commands 
an  admirable  view  of  the  city,  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  and  the  desert. 
From  the  court  a  dark  cave  (probably  an  old  quarry)  enters  the  mountain- 
side, with  the  graves  of  dervishes.  At  the  end  is  a  chamber  containing 
the  tomb  of  a  sheikh ,  where  worshippers  are  frequently  observed.  The 
remains  of  a  wife  of  'Abbas  I.  also  rest  here,  under  an  elaborate  gilt  tomb. 

From  the  Bab  el-Gebel  a  road  leads  to  the  8.  to  the  Tombs  of  tJit  Mame- 
lukes (p.  115).  —  To  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  see  p.  111. 


"We  return  to  the  Place  Saladin  (p.  68)  and  follow  the  Shari' 
Mohammed  'All  (p.  62}  to  its  intersection  with  the  Shaei'  bl-Hil- 
MiTEH  (PI.  D,  5,  6).  The  latter  street,  along  with  its  continuations, 
the  Sh&ri' es-Siyufiyeh  and  the  Shdri'  er-Rukhlyeh  (PI.  D,  6,  7),  forms 
the  main  thoroughfare  traversing  E.  Cairo  from  N.  to  S.  (  comp.  p.  59), 


Quarter.^.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    71 

to  the  S.  of  the  Sliari'  Mohammed  'Ali.  In  the  Shari'  el-Hilmtyeh, 
on  the  left,  is  tlie  Monastery  of  the  Mevlevis  ('Derviches  tourneurs'; 
PI.  D,  6),  an  order  of  dancing  dervishes  (p.  xcii),  whose  'zikr' 
(comp.  p.  xci)  may  be  witnessed  on  Frid.  afternoons  at  two  o'clock 
(previous  application  through  a  dragoman  necessary).  At  the  inter- 
section of  the  Shari'  Siyufiyeh  and  the  Shari'  es-Salibeh  is  the  rich 
and  effective  marble  Sehll  of  the  Mother  of  'Ahhas  1.  [PI.  D,  6).  To 
the  left,  in  the  Shari'  Shekhuh  (leading  to  the  Place  Saladin),  is 
the  Gdmi'  Shekhuh^  built  by  the  emir  of  that  name  (1350-55),  and 
opposite,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  street,  is  the  Khankah  or  Convent  of 
ShekhUh,  occupied  by  dervishes  of  the  Kadiriyeh  Order  (p.  xcii).  — 
We  continue  to  follow  the  Shari'  er-Rukbiyeh  and  turn  down  the 
Shari'  Ibn  'Tulun  to  the  right,  in  which,  after  about  100  yds.  more, 
we  observe  on  the  right  a  lane  leading  to  the  E.  entrance  of  the 
now  disused  and  sadly  neglected  — 

*Gfi,mi'  Ibn  Tul4n  (PI.  D,  7 ;  also  pronounced  'Falun).  This 
mosque,  the  oldest  in  Cairo  but  one ,  was  erected  in  876-879  by 
Ahmed  ibn  TuliLn ,  the  founder  of  the  dynasty  of  the  Tulunides 
(p.  cxiv).  It  lies  in  the  quarter  oi  Kal'at  el-Kabsh,  on  a  hill  named 
Oebel  YeshkxJir,  and  occupies  an  area  of  30,720  sq.  yds.,  20,320 
of  which  are  taken  up  by  the  mosque  proper.  The  edifice  is  said 
to  have  been  designed  in  imitation  of  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca,  but 
without  columns,  by  a  Christian  prisoner,  who,  in  return  for  his 
release,  constructed  the  whole  of  the  building  of  entirely  new 
materials  (i.e.  not  taken  from  other  buildings).  The  walls  consist 
of  brick,  coated  with  stucco.  The  older  part  of  the  ornamentation, 
which  is  in  carved  (not  moulded)  stucco  and  wood,  exhibits  none 
of  the  intricate  forms  of  the  Byzantine- Arabian  style,  which  appear 
in  the  later  restorations.  At  a  later  period  the  mosque  was  used 
as  a  magazine  and  as  an  asylum  for  aged  men,  which  explains  the 
addition  visible  in  the  N.W.  liwan,  below  the  minaret. 

From  the  main  entrance(Pl.  l,p.72)  we  pass  through  the  E,  outer 
court  to  the  Chief  Liw an  (PI.  4)  or  sanctuary,  and  thence  proceed 
to  the  inner  quadrangle  or  Sahn  el-Gdmi%  99  yds.  square.  With  the 
exception  of  the  ceilings,  most  of  which  have  been  restored,  the 
building  has  been  preserved  almost  intact,  though  its  fitting  up  has 
been  frequently  altered.  The  most  important  renovations  were  carried 
out  by  Lagin,  afterwards  Sultan  El-Maiisur.  It  was  he  wlio  erected 
the  mausoleum-like  Dome  (PI.  6)  in  the  centre  of  the  court,  covering 
an  octagonal  basin,  on  the  site  of  an  older  hall  which  was  destroyed 
.  by  fire.  The  court  is  surrounded  by  a  double  arcade,  except  on  the 
sanctuary  side,  where  the  arcade  is  quadruple,  while  a  fifth  row 
of  arches  collapsed  in  1876.  Pointed  openings  above  the  pillars 
lighten  the  weight  of  the  masonry,  and  the  facades  are  crowned  by 
a  medallion -frieze  and  open-work  balustrades.  The  pillars  are  of 
plastered  brick  and  have  their  corners  rounded  into  quarter  col- 
timns,    with  delicately  ornamented  capitals.    The  pointed  arches 


72     Route  4. 


CAIRO. 


3.  South-Eastern 


are  among  the  earliest  examples  of  the  kind.  On  one  of  the  pillars 
of  the  sanctuary  (PL  x)  is  a  marhle  tablet  bearing  the  charter  of  the 
mosque  in  ancient  Arabic  (Cufic)  characters.  Another  pillar  exhibits 
fine  stucco  ornamentation.  The  original  roof  of  the  arcades,  of  which 


I.   Main  entrance.    2.  Foreconrts.    3.  Liwans.    4.  Chief  Li wan  or  Sanctuary. 

5.  Prayer-recess  and  pnlpit.     6.  Dome  and  water-basin.    7.  Large  minaret. 

8.  Small  minaret.    9.  Sebil  of  later  date. 


remains  are  extant  above  the  dikkeh,  was  made  of  beams  of  date- 
palm,  veneered  with  sycamore  wood.  Along  the  top  of  the  walls 
runs  a  frieze  of  sycamore  wood,  inscribed  with  texts  from  the  Koran. 
According  to  the  testimony  of  Makrizi  this  wood  belonged  to  Noah's 
Ark,  which  was  found  by  Ibn  Tuluu  on  Mt.  Ararat. 


Quartern.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    73 

The  Prayer  Recess  (IM.  5)  has  fine  Byzantine  capitals  and  remains 
of  gilded  mosaic.  The  wooden  cupola  over  it  has  lately  been  restored. 
The  Pulpit  erected  by  Sultan  El-Mansur  (p.  71)  in  1298  is  still 
noticeable,  though  it  has  been  robbed  of  its  characteristic  panels 
carved  in  ebony  and  ivory.  These  were  sold  in  Europe  and  some 
of  them  are  now  in  the  South  Kensinston  Museum. 

The  large  Minaret  (PI.  7),  in  the  N.W.  outer  court,  dates  from 
a  later  period  and  is  perhaps  a  reproduction  of  a  tower  at  Samarra 
on  the  Tigris.  It  is  built  of  stone,  instead  of  brick,  and  also  shows 
peculiarities  in  its  square  lower  section  and  elsewhere.  The  horse- 
shoe arches  at  the  entrance  are  particularly  fine.  The  ascent  is  easy, 
and  the  top  commands  an  admirable  *View.  To  the  S.  are  the  pyra- 
mids of  Dahshur  and  to  the  W.  the  huge  pyramids  of  Gizeh;  the 
valley  of  the  Nile  as  far  as  the  Delta  lies  before  us ;  to  the  E.  rise 
the  picturesque  slopes  of  the  Mokattam  and  the  Citadel;  in  the 
foreground  all  round  lies  ('airo,  with  its  houses,  mosques,  palaces, 
and  gardens;  to  the  N.,  at  the  foot  of  the  minaret,  is  the  Medreseh 
Sarghutmash.  —  From  the  minaret  access  is  gained  to  the  concrete 
roofs  of  the  liwans,  protected  by  elegant  balustrades;  a  walk  round 
these  is  recommended  for  a  full  appreciation  of  the  view. 

We  return  to  the  Shari' Ibn  Tulun,  turn  to  the  right  by  the 
Shari'  ez-Ziyadeh,  on  the  S.W.  siile  of  the  mosque,  and  follow 
the  winding  Shari'  el-Kabsh  and  the  Shari'  er-Rahaba,  all  in  the 
quarter  of  Kal'at  el-Kabsh  (p.  71),  to  the  — 

*Medreseh  Ka.it  Bey  ( I'l.  G,  7),  which  was  erected  in  1475  and 
has  been  recently  restored  by  llerz-Pasha.  It  is  cruciform  in  ground- 
plan,  and  its  rich  and  elegant  forms  afford  a  good  example  of  the 
style  current  under  the  second  Mameluke  dynasty  (p.  clxxx).  The 
minaret  is  one  of  the  most  graceful  in  Cairo.  The  pulpit  is  richly 
embellished  with  wood-carving.  The  mosaics  on  the  pavement  and 
the  flue  ornamentation  of  the  walls  also  are  wortliy  of  notice.  The 
dome  is  modern. 

The  Shari'  Bir  el-Watawit  leads  to  the  E.  from  the  Shari' Ibn 
Tulun,  at  the  Mosque  of  Tulun,  to  the  Shabi'i;l-Khei)eiri(P1.  D,7), 
the  W.  prolongation  of  the  Shari' os-Salibeh  (p.  71).  Here,  just  to 
theN.  of  the  Tulun  Mof-quc,  stands  the  small  Medreseh  Sarghutmash, 
built  by  one  of  Sultan  Hasan's  Mamelukes  in  1357  in  the  style  of 
the  mosque  of  Sultan  lla.^au.  The  four  liwans  form  a  cross  with 
the  court  in  the  centre.  Ou  the  walls  to  the  right  and  left  of  the 
prayer-niche  are  the  arms  of  the  builder.  A  door  in  the  S.W.  corner 
of  the  W.  liwan  leads  to  the  mausoleum,  covered  by  a  stately  dome. 
—  In  the  Sh.iri' E/.bek,  a  side-street,  lies  the  beautiful  Mosque  of 
Ezhek  el-Yuaeli  (PI.  D,6),  built  in  1495  in  the  style  of  K ait  Bey 
and  recently  restored. 

The  W.  continuation  of  the  Shari'  el-Khedeiri  expands  into 
the  Shari'  kl-MaeasIn  (PI.  C,  7),   wliich  leads  almost  straight  to 

Kaedekeu's  Egypt.    7th  F.dit.  5 


74    RotUe  I.  CAIRO.  (.  Northern 

the  small  square  and  mosque  of  Es-Seiyideli  Zeiiiab.  On  the  way  it 
passes  the  high-lying  Odmi' Sang'ir  el-Oauli  (1303),  with  two  stilted 
domes  and  a  minaret  resembling  that  of  the  Hakim  Mosque.  To  the 
N.  of  this  street  lies  the  quarter  of  Birket  el-FU  ('lake  of  the  ele- 
phants'), on  the  site  of  a  former  lake. 

The  Gami'  es-Seiyideli  Zeinab  (PI.  C,  6,  7)  was  completed  in 
1803  and  enlarged  and  restored  in  1884.  The  interior  (not  open 
to  foreigners)  contaiTis  the  tomb  (restored)  of  Zeinab,  daughter  of 
Imam  Ali  and  granddaughter  of  the  Prophet;  the  bronze  railing 
enclosing  tlie  sarcophagus  bears  the  date  1210  (of  the  Hegira).  In 
front  of  this  mausoleum  are  the  cenotaphs  of  three  saints,  beneath 
a  stone  canopy. 

From  this  point  the  tramway  (No.  5,  p.  38)  leads  to  the  N.,  along 
the  course  of  the  former  Khalig  Canal  (p.  104),  to  the  Bab  el-Khalk 
and  the  Muski.  Koughly  parallel  with  it  goes  a  scries  of  tortuous 
streets,  called  successively  Shari'  Seiyideh  Zeinab,  Shari'  el-Lobu- 
diyeh,  Derb  el-tTamamiz,  Shari'  el-Habbaniyeh,  and  Shari'  Bab  el- 
Khalk,  leading  to  the  (1 V4  M.)  Shari'  Mohammed  'Ali  and  the  Place 
Bab  el-Khalk.  In  the  Shari'  bl-Habbaniyeh  is  the  former  Dervish 
monastery  of  Tekkhjeh  es- Sultan  Mnhmud  or  Tekkhjeh  Hahbanhjeh 
(PI.  D,  5).  It  was  erected  in  the  Turkish-.\rabian  style  about. the 
middle  of  the  ISth  cent,  by  Mustafa  Agha,  vizier  of  Sultan  Selim, 
and  is  now  occupied  by  students  of  the  Azhar  Mosque  (p.  55).  The 
building  possesses  a  large  court,  with  a  fountain  and  a  few  palm- 
trees.  Around  the  court  are  the  cells  of  the  students,  and  adjoining 
it  is  a  small  mosque.  Built  on  to  the  monastery  is  the  highly  inter- 
esting SebU  of  Sultan  MahmUd^  with  its  prominent  rotunda  and 
elaborate  facade,  its  projecting  blinds,  and  its  coloured  marble  and 
porcelain  interior  embellishment. 

4.  The  Northern  Quarters. 

The  following  section  deals  principally  with  the  interesting  edifices  in 
the  N.E.  part  of  Cairo,  to  the  N.  of  the  Sikkeh  e}-Gedideh,  the  continua- 
tion of  the  JInski  (p.  53),  and  with  the  N.E.  suburb  of  'Abbn.ii/jeh.  Ttie 
route  here  described  is  thus  a  direct  continuation  of  that  described  in 
Section  2.  —  The  N.W.  portion  of  Cairo  (p.  IS)  contains  little  of  interest. 

From  the  Sikkeh  el-Gedideh  (p.  53),  opposite  the  Gami'  el- 
Ashraf  (PI.  E,  3;  p.  53),  we  enter  the  Shart'  kl-Khordagitbh  (Fl. 
E,  3),  which  begins  at  the  Selnl  of  Sheikh  Motahhar,  dating  from 
1700.  This  street  is  the  continuation  of  the  great  line  of  thorough- 
fares which  runs  from  the  Bab  Zuweileh  on  the  S.  to  the  Bab  el-Futuh 
(p.  77)  on  the  N. 

To  the  right  lies  the  entrance  to  the  Khan  el-Khalili  (p.  54), 
nearly  opposite  which  is  the  Sfik  es-S&,igli  (pi.  Siydgh^,  or  bazaar 
of  the  goldsmiths  and  silversmiths,  which  consists  of  several  crooked 
lanes,  barely  a  yard  in  width.  The  stalls  present  a  very  poor  ap- 
pearance, but  the  filigree-work  is  sometimes  very  good.    The  articles 


Qiiarlerf.  CAIRO.  4.  UouU.     75 

are  usually  sold  by  wciglit,  and  au  oflldal  guavaiit.ee  ol'  its  corrent- 
ness  may  be  obtained  in  the  bazaar. 

From  this  labyrinth  of  lanes  we  return  to  the  Shari"  el-Khor- 
dagiyeh,  which  is  prolonged  by  the  Sh'iri'  el-Goharghjeh.  On  the 
left  side  of  this  street  are  the  striking  red  and  white  facades  of 
the  Muristan  Kalaun,  the  medreseh  of  En-Nasir,  and  the  Darkilkiyeli 
(see  below  and  p.  76),  which  occupy  what  was  once  the  site  of  a 
small  palace  of  the  Fatimite  sultan  Mu'izz. 

Opposite  is  the  brnad  Shari'  Beit  el-K&di,  leading  to  the  Beit 
el-Kadi  (P1.  E,  3),  or  'House  of  the  Judge',  originally  a  palace  of 
Kinir  Mamai,  a  general  of  Kait  Bey.  The  open  veranda,  with  its 
live  lofty  pointed  arches,  dates  from  this  period.  This  court  was 
formerly  the  supreme  tribunal  of  the  country,  and  the  appointment 
of  cadi,  made  by  the  government  at  Constantinople,  was  frequently 
bestowed  upon  favourites,  as  it  is  a  very  lucrative  post.  Now,  how- 
ever, the  cadi  is  always  an  Egyptian  aiid  his  jurisdiction  is  limited 
to  questions  of  civil  status  (birth,  marriage,  inheritance).  —  We 
return  to  the  main  street. 

The  *MTiristan  KalS,6n  (I'l.  E,  3)  is  one  of  three  buildings  be- 
gun by  SulUm  EL-  Slanmr  Kalaun  (p.  cxvii)  in  1285  and  finished 
by  his  son  En-Nasir  in  1293,  the  two  others  being  the  mosque  and 
mausoleum  mentioned  below.  They  are  the  largest  monuments  of 
their  time  and  are  of  considerable  architectural  interest.  They  date 
from  the  period  during  which  the  Arabian  architecture  of  Egypt 
began  to  be  influenced  by  the  European  style  introduced  into  Syria 
by  the  Crnsaders.  —  The  Muristan  was  once  a  vast  hospital,  the 
greater  part  of  which  is  now  in  a  ruinous  condition  and  occupied 
by  coppersmiths  and  other  mechanics.  Part  of  it  contains  a  new 
ophthalmichospital,  erected  by  the  Wakf  Administration  (p.  Ixxxvi). 
Originally  there  was  a  separate  ward  lor  every  known  disease,  be- 
sides lecture-rooms  lor  students  and  an  orphanage. 

The  large  portal  is  constructed  of  black  and  white  marble  in 
alternate  courses.  The  doors  show  traces  of  their  former  covering 
of  bronze.  The  adjoining  corridor  has  a  richly  carved  wooden  ceil- 
ing. [The  other  corridors  are  vaulted  in  the  Gothic  style.]  To  the 
left  of  the  corridor  lies  the  Mosque;  to  the  right  is  the  Mausoleum 
of  Kalaun,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  Arab  buildings  in  Cairo.  It 
has  been  restored  by  Herz-Pasha.  The  forecourt,  the  elegant  facade 
of  which  is  adorned  with  carved  stucco  ornamentation,  is  adjoined 
by  the  mausoleum  proper.  This  is  covered  by  a  handsome  dome, 
supported  by  four  massive  granite  columns  and  four  pillars.  The 
exquisitely  carved  and  coloured  wooden  ceiling  and  the  prayer- 
recess,  with  its  columns  of  red  porphyry  and  its  beautiful  dwarf- 
arcades,  are  noteworthy.  The  marble  and  mother-of-pearl  mosaic 
ornamentation  of  the  walls  and  pillars  is  the  finest  of  the  kind  in 
Cairo.  In  the  centre  stands  the  sultan"s  catafalque.  The  stucco 
ornament.ition  above  the  exterior  of  the  W.  exit  may  be  noticed. 


76     Route  4.  CAIRO.  4.  Northern 

Adjacent  to  the  Muristan  is  the  Medreseh  and  Tomb  of  En- 
N&sir,  dating  from  about  1303 ,  now  almost  a  total  ruin. 

'We  enter  it  from  the  street  by  a  marble  portal  in  the  Gothic  style, 
brought  by  Sultan  El-Ashraf  Khalil,  the  elder  brother  of  En-Nasir,  from 
the  church  of  Acre,  which  he  destroyed  in  1291.  The  door  leads  into 
a  corridor,  on  the  right  side  of  which  is  the  tomb  of  En-Nasir  (dome 
collapsed),  while  t(j  the  left  is  the  sanctuary  of  the  medreseh.  In' front  are 
tlie  ruins  of  the  main  building,  now  containing  coppersmiths'  workshops. 

The  third  large  building  is  the  *Barkftkiyeh,  the  medreseh  of 
SuUan  Barkilk  [138'2-99;  p.  cxTiii ),  built  in  1384.  It  possesses  an 
interesting  marble  portal  and  a  bronze-mounted  door.  The  greater 
part  of  it  has  been  thoroughly  restored,  and  the  colouring  and  gild- 
ing applied  to  the  sanctuary  and  mausoleum  (in  which  a  daughter 
of  Barkuk  rests')  are,  unfortunately,  much  too  loud.  —  Opposite  is 
a  modern  sebil. 

The  N.  continuation  of  the  Gohargiyeh  is  the  busy  Suari'  en- 
Nauhasin,  with  the  market  of  tjie  coppersmiths.  To  the  riglit,  be- 
tween the  Haret  Beit  el-Kadi  and  the  Derb  Kermez,  are  the  remains 
( stone  below,  brick  above)  of  the  huge  facade  of  tlie  palace  of  Dur 
BeshtdkiPl.  E,  3;  p.  clxxxiii),  which  was  erected  in  133Uby  the  Emir 
Beshtak  on  the  foundations  of  a  palace  of  the  Fatimite  caliphs  (eutr. 
from  the  Derb  Kermez).  The  interior  still  retains  traces  of  its  ela- 
borate decorations,  wliilc  tlie  main  room  of  the  harem  (Ka'a ;  inacces- 
sible)  is  well  preserved.  —  At  the  intersection  of  the  street  with  the 
Shari'  el-Tombakshiyeh  (p.  77)  stands  the  SebU  'Abd  er-Rahman^  one 
of  the  prettiest  structures  of  its  sort  in  Cairo  (18th  cent.).  On  the 
groiindfloor  is  the  chamber  for  the  distribution  of  the  water,  taste- 
fully decorated  with  fayence.  Upstairs  is  the  hall  of  an  elementary 
school,  commanding  a  striking  retrospect  of  the  busy  street. 

At  tlie  corner  of  the  Haret  es-Sannannin,  farther  on,  to  the 
right,  stands  the  GS.mi'  el-Akmar  (PI.  E,  2),  built  in  1125  by  Kl- 
Ma'mun,  the  grand  vi/.ier  of  Jll-Amir,  the  Fatimite.  The  facade, 
now  laid  bare  for  the  greater  part,  is  the  oldest  mosque-fagade  in 
Cairo  and  therefore  of  considerable  architectural  interest  (comp. 
p.  clxxix);  it  is  built  of  liewn  stone,  with  tall  pointed  arches  in 
rectangular  frames  alternating  with  small  recesses  in  two  stories.  — 
The  street  now  becomes  the  SHAPa'  el-Margush  el-Barrani.  On 
the  left,  beside  the  modern  mosque  of  Es-Selahdar,  with  its  Turkish 
minaret,  the  Haret  Bir  Gauan  diverges  through  an  archway  and 
leads  in  a  zigzag  to  the  Mosque  of  Abu  Bekr  Mazhar  el-Ans&ri 
(P1.E,2).  ■       • 

This  mosque  was  built  in  1480  by  Abu  Bekr,  director  of  the  chancery 
of  Sultan  Kait  Bey,  in  the  style  of  the  small  mosques  of  the  later  Mameluke 
period,  and  has  been  thoroughly  restored.  The  walls  and  ceiling  illustrate 
the  characteristic  decoration  of  its  date.  Other  noteworthy  features  are 
the  columns  in  the  E.  and  W.  liwans,  the  carved  pulpit,  and  the  pretty 
doors.  The  central  portion  is  domed.  The  coloured  stucco  window- 
traceries  are  modern. 

Farther  on  the  street  assumes  the  name  Shari'  Bab  el-Fotuh. 
On  the  right  we  soon  reach  the  entrance  of  the  ruinous  — 


Quarlcr.i.  OAIHO.  4.  Route.      77 

Gft.mi'  el-H&kim  (I'l.  K,  2),  begun  in  990,  on  the  plan  of  the 
Mosque  of  Ibn  Tulun  (p.  71),  by  Caliph  El-'Aziz,  and  completed 
by  his  son  El-IIakim  in  1002-1012.  It  was  seriously  damaged  by  the 
earthquake  of  1303,  but  was  restored  soon  afterwards  by  Beybars  II. 
Under  the  French  it  was  used  as  a  fort.  It  now  lies  in  ruins,  -with 
the  exception  of  the  sanctuary,  which  has  a  modern  ceiling.  The 
two  minarets,  at  either  end  of  the  W.  wall,  are  noteworthy.  Orig- 
inally round,  they  owe  their  present  cubical  shape  to  a  stirrounding 
wall,  built  at  a  later  date.  In  the  case  of  the  N.  minaret,  which  is 
incorporated  in  the  town-wall  (see  below),  the  finely  carved  marble 
windows  and  the  Fatimitc  inscriptions  in  its  original  lower  portion 
may  still  be  identified.  The  dome-shaped  tops,  resembling  Arabian 
incense-burners  (mabkhara),  date  from  the  above-mentioned  restor- 
ation.   The  N.  minaret  commands  a  fine  view. 

At  the  end  of  the  Shari'  Bab  el-Futuh  rises  the  Bfi,b  el-Futuh 
(PI.  E,  2),  or  'Gate  of  Conquests',  which  is  connected  by  the  ancient 
city-wall  with  the  Bab  en-Nasr  (PI.  E,  2),  or  'Gate  of  Victory', 
165  yds.  to  the  E.  (reached  by  the  Shari'  el-Kassasin).  These 
two  gates  form  the  strong  N.E.  extremity  of  the  old  city-forti- 
flcations.  Together  with  the  mosque  of  Caliph  Hakim,  situated 
between  them  (see  above),  they  formed  a  strong  position  for  the 
troops  of  Napoleon  in  1790.  These  solidly  built  gates  are,  along 
with  the  15ab  Zuweileh  (p.  60),  the  only  survivors  of  the  sixty 
sates  in  tlic  Fatlmite  walls  of  Cairo  erected  by  the  vizier  Badr  el- 
Ganiali  at  the  end  of  the  lltli  century.  Their  plan  resembles 
that  of  ancient  Roman  gateways.  Each  has  an  outer  and  an  inner 
gate,  flanked  by  square  or  round  towers  and  united  by  means  of  a 
vaulted  inner  court. 

The  *AscENT  of  the  towers  and  town-wall  is  highly  recommended 
(adm.  2  pias.).  We  first  ascend  the  Bab  en-Nasr,  on  which  an  old 
gallows  is  still  standing,  then  walk  along  tlie  wall,  the  battlements 
of  whirh  are  partly  preserved,  to  the  Bab  ol-Futuh,  beyond  which 
the  wall  is  <'Ontinued  for  some  distance.  The  view  ranges  over  the 
city  and,  on  the  \V.,  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  and  the  Gebel  el- 
Ahmar  (p.  115).  The  return  to  the  Bdb  en-Nasr  should  be  made 
through  the  casemates,  the  finely  pointed  masonry  of  which  includes 
blocks  (some  inscribed)  from  carly-lCgyptian  buildings. 

In  the  Moslem  cemetery  outside  I  lie  I'fib  en-Nasr  is  buried  Johaiin 
Ludwig  Bvrckhardt  fd.  1817),  known  to  the  Arabs  as  'Sheikh  Ibrahim', 
the  distinguished  oriental  traveller.  —  From  the  Bab  en-Nasr  to  the  Tombs 
of  the  Caliphs,   sec  p.  111. 

We  return  from  the  Bab  cn-Nasr  by  the  Shari"  B.\ii  kn-Nasr, 
passing  (right)  the  Okella  of  Kait  Bey,  dating  from  1480.  Farther 
on,  in  the  Shaei'  r.L-GAMALivEit  (Fl.  E,  2,  3),  to  the  left,  is  the 
Conventual  Mosque  of  Sultan  Beybars  II.  1^1306-9  |,  with  the  domed 
tomb  of  the  founder.  We  next  follow  the  Sharf  el-Tombakshiyeh 
(p.  76)  to  the  right  to  the  Shari'  en-Nahhasin.  the  Shiiri'  el-Khorda- 
giyeh,  the  Sikkeh  el-Gedideh,  and  the  Muski  (_p.  53). 


78    Route  1.  CAIRO.  /.  ^orthern  Quarters. 

The  principal  thoroughfare  of  the  N.W.  quarter  is  tlie  Shakt 
Clot  Bey  (PI. B,  0,2),  which  runs  to  the  N.W.  from  the  Midaii  el- 
Khazindar  to  the  Central  Railway  Station  (p.  35).  —  In  the  Derb 
cl-Wassa,  to  the  W.  of  the  Shari'  Clot  Bey,  lies  the  Chief  Coptic 
Church  (PI.  C,  2),  a  modern  building  dedicated  to  St.  Mark.  (For 
Coptic  services,  comp.  p.  107. )  Adjacent  are  schools  and  the  house 
of  the  Orthodox  Coptic  Patriarch.  —  The  Shari'  Clot  Bey  ends  at 
the  MiDAN  or  Plack  Ramsi^.s  (PI.  B,  1,  2),  which,  at  the  instigation 
of  Viscount  Kitchener,  will  eventually  be  adorned  with  the  colossal 
statue  of  Ramses  II.  found  at  Mit  Rahineh  in  1820  (comp.  p.  144). 
At  the  end  of  the  Shari'  Niibar  Basha  is  the  handsome  modern 
Seb7l  of  the  Mother  of  hmd'U  Pasha  (PI.  B,  2 ). 

From  the  N.W.  end  of  the  Place  Ramses  the  Shari'  esh-Shuhra 
leads  past  the  Central  Railway  Station  to  the  village  of  Shuhra 
(beyond  Pi.  15, 1),  terminus  of  tramway  No.  8  (p.  38;  Hot.-Restaurant 
Shubra).  To  the  left  in  this  street  are  the  Asylum  for  Aged  Men 
and  the  Ecole  Tewflkieh,  with  a  training  college;  on  the  right  is 
the  school  of  the  Dames  du  Bon-Pasteur.  At  Sh\ibra  is  a  now  neglect- 
ed khedivial  garden  (adm.  in  the  absence  of  Prince  Husein  Pasha; 
fee  5  pias.).  —  From  the  tramway-de'pot  the  road  to  Rod  el-Farag, 
on  the  Nile,  the  most  N.  harbour  at  Cairo,  leads  to  the  left  (tram- 
way No.  9).    Steamer  to  the  Barrage,  see  p.  39. 

The  Shari'  el-Faggaxa  runs  to  the  E.  from  the  Place  Ramses, 
and  from  it,  a  little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  diverges  the  Sham'  ez- 
/Ihir  {ed-Daher;  PI.  C,  D,  1),  pleasantly  shaded  by  lebbakh-trees. 
In  its  prolongation  is  the  Middn  ez-Zdhir  ( PI.  E,  1),  with  the  large 
mosque  of  that  name,  erected  by  Beybars  1.  (p.  cxvii)  at  the  end  of 
the  13th  century.    Its  exterior  walls  only  have  been  preserved. 

From  the  Midan  ez-Zahir  the  Shari'  bl-'Abbasiyeh  (PI.  E,  1) 
leads  past  a  Seb'd  on  the  site  of  the  former  Bab  Huseiniyeh  to  the 
quarter  of  'Abb&siyeli  (comp.  Map,  p.  105),  in  a  healthy  situation 
on'the  edge  of  the  desert  (tramway  No.  3,  see  p.  38;  rail,  station  of 
Demirdash,  see  p.  120).  It  was  founded  by  'Abbas  I.  in  1849.  On 
the  left  'side  of  the  Shari'  el-'Abbasiyeh  is  the  Fadatviyeh  Mauso- 
leum (of  the  time  of  Kait  Beyl,  and  farther  on,  at  the  N.  end,  are  the 
Egyptian  Army  Military  School  and  Barracks.  'Abbasiyeh  contains 
also  most  of  the  foreign  hospitals  mentioned  on  p.  40  and  the 
Government  Lunatic  Asylum.  —  To  Kubbeh,  Matariyeh,  and  the 
new  villa-quarter  of  Heliopolis,  see  pp.  119,  120. 


5.   Sdlak,  Gezireh,  and  the  Gizeh  Suburb. 

Comp.  the  Map^  p.  105. 

Bfil&k  (or  Bulaq\  the  quarter  situated  beyond  the  now  fllled- 

in  Isma'iliyeh  Canal ,   is  reached  from  the  Ezbekiyeh  by  following 

the  Shdri' Bv.ldlc  (-p.  62^  and  crossing  a   railway -siding  (tramways 

Nos.  2  &  6,  p.  38).   To  the  left  of  the  level  crossing  is  the  Scottish 


d.  Gezheh.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.   79 

Presbyterian  Church  of  St.  Andrew  (p.  42),  to  tlie  right  a  French  Pro- 
testant cha]>el.  Straight  on  beyond  tlie  railway  line  runs  the  busy 
Shdri'  Abu'l  'Eia,  whlcli  traverses  the  whole  quarter  and  with  its 
narrow  side-streets  and  lanes  affords  a  more  characteristic  picture 
of  oriental  lite  than  Cairo  proper.  At  the  end  of  this  street  are  the 
picturesque  Gatni'  Abu'l  Ela  ami  the  new  BCddk  Bridge  (300  yds. 
long)  to  Gezireh,  built  in  1909-12,  with  a  central  lifting  span 
(closed  for  traftic  daily  12-12.45  p.m.  and  8-3.45  p.m.).  —  Another 
important  thoroughfare,  the  ShSri'  es-Sdhil  (PI.  A,  4),  leads  to  the 
N.  of  the  Egyptian  Museum  past  the  building  of  the  Road  Board 
(Tanzim)  and  the  Hospital  of  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty 
to  Animals,  to  the  W.  end  of  the  Shari' Abu'l  'Ela. 

At  the  N.  end  of  Biilak  is  the  Arsenal  (1835),  with  a  manufac- 
tory of  weapons.  Of  the  several  mosques  the  most  interesting  is 
the  Gdinf  es-Sindnlyeh,  built  in  1573  by  Sinan,  the  Turkish  gover- 
nor under  Selim  II.  Bulak  boasts  also  of  several  churches,  a  Khe- 
divial  Technical  School,  the  Government  Model  Workshops,  a  House 
of  Correction  for  Women,  and  the  Government  Printing  Office. 

The  Kasr  en-Nil  Bridge  (Arab.  El-Kubri;  PI.  A,  5;  420  yds. 
long),  at  the  end  of  the  Shari'  el-Kubri,  unites  the  new  town  with 
Gezireh.  Early  in  the  morning  a  picturesque  crowd  of  peasants 
may  be  seen  here  with  the  wares  they  are  bringing  to  market. 
The  bridge  is  opened  for  the  passage  of  vessels  for  about  li/ohr. 
daily  (generally  1.30-3;  see  notice-boards)  and  is  then  impassable. 
—  A  shorter  route  from  the  Ezbekiyeh  to  Gezireh  is  offered  by  the 
above-mentioned  Bulak  Bridge. 

The  Gez'tret  Bulak,  usually  known  simply  as  Gezireh  or  Oezira 
(island),  an  island  in  the  Nile,  is  a  fashionable  resort.  From  the 
Midan  el-Geztreh  (tramway,  see  p.  80),  immediately  adjoining  the 
Kasr  en-Nil  Bridge,  the  Sikket  cl-Gezireh  leads  to  the  right  to  tlie 
fashionable  villa-quarter  of  Gezireh,  passing  (on  the  right)  various 
pleasure  establishments  and  attractive  public  gardens  and  (on  the 
left)  the  Anglo-American  Hospital  and  the  grounds  and  racecourse 
of  the  Khedivial  Sporting  Club  (p.  42).  In  the  villa-quarter  are  also 
the  Ghezireh  Palace  Hotel  (p.  36),  the  Gezireh  Grotto,  with  the 
Aquarium  (open  8.30-5  :  adm.  1/27  on  Sun.  1  pias.),  containing  an 
interesting  collection  of  Nile-flsh,  and  the  German  Institute  for 
Egyptian  Archaeology  (p.  42),  —  Farther  on  the  Sikket  el-Geztreh 
curves  to  the  S.  and  joins  the  Shari'  el-Gizeh  (p.  80). 

Beluw  Gezireh  the  Nile  is  spanned  by  the  Embdbeh  Railway  Bridge, 
which  can  be  used  ulso  by  lodt-passerigers  and  carriages.  The  station  on 
the  left  bank  is  known  as  Embdbeh  (pp.  32,  143).  This  was  the  scene  of 
the  'Battle  of  the  Pyramids',  in  whio)i  thJ  French  under  Bonaparte  defeated 
the  Mamelukes  (July  21st.  179S). 

The  Shari'  cl-Kubri  el-A'meh  runs  to  the  left  from  the  Mlddn 
el-Gezheh\see  above)  through  the  S.  part  of  Gezireh,  which  is  occu- 
pied by  *Gardens .  much  frequented  especially  in  the  afternoon. 
This  street,  shaded  by  lebbakh-trees  and  popular  as  a  'corso',  crosses 


80    Route  1.  CAIRO.  6.  Egyptian  Mmeum: 

the  so-called  Font  des  Anglais,  spanning  the  W.  arm  of  the  Nile, 
and,  under  the  name  of  Shdri'  el-Glzeh,  skirts  tlie  river  througli 
Oizeh  Suburb,  a  new  villa -quarter.  [The  Shari'  Mahattet  Bulak 
cd-Dakrur,  which  diverges  to  the  right,  leads  to  Bulak  ed-Dakrur 
(p.  143).]  On  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  the  Shari'  el-Brinsat,  is 
the  Survey  Department  (director,  E.  M.  Dowson),  and  opposite  is 
the  MUdMyeh  of  the  province  of  Gizeh.  Farther  on  are  the  public 
Gizeh  Gardens,  behind  which  lie  the  Polytechnic  School  and  the  — 

Zoological  Gardens  (open  daily,  9  till  sunset;  adm.  1/21  on 
Sun.,  when  a  military  band  plays,  5  pias.;  cafe-terrace),  which  are 
rich  in  rare  African  animals  and  birds.  The  beautiful  park  itself, 
52  acres  in  extent,  is  worth  visiting  for  the  magnificent  royal  palms 
fOreodoxa  regia),  papyrus  reeds,  lotus  plants,  and  other  character- 
istic Egyptian  vegetation.  —  Tlie  road  next  reaches  the  N.  end  of  tho 
little  town  of  Gizeh,  where,  at  the  station  known  as  Gtzeh  Village, 
it  joins  the  tramway  to  the  Pyramids  (No.  14,  p.  38).  To  the  right 
is  the  Oovernment  School  of  Agriculture. 

Gizeh  or  Giza,  an  uninteresting  town  with  16,500  inhab.,  is  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  Gizeh  (400  sq.  M.,  with  a  population  of 
460,080).  Tuesday  is  market-day.  —  For  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh, 
see  p.  123. 

6.  The  Egyptian  Museum. 

Tramways  (Nos.  1,  12,  1.5,  &  17J,  sec  pp.  38,  39. 

The  **Egyptian  Museum  (Musee  Egyptien  du  Caire,  Arab.  El- 
Antikkhdneh),  containing  Egyptian  and  Greek  antiquities  found  in 
the  valley  of  the  Nile,  lies  in  the  Shari'  el-Antikkhaneh  el-Gedideh, 
not  far  from  the  Kasr  en-Nil  Bridge.  Founded  by  the  French  Egypt- 
ologist Aug.  Mariette  (1821-81)  in  1857  and  originally  housed  at 
Bulak,  the  Museum  was  greatly  enlarged  by  later  directors  (Grebaut, 
De  Morgan,  Loret,  and  especially  Maspero)  and  is  by  far  the  largest 
and  most  important  collection  of  its  kind.  Its  growth  is  steady  and 
rapid,  owing  to  the  regular  archaeological  enterprises  of  the  Egyptian 
Department  of  Antiquities,  to  purchases,  and  to  the  proceeds  of 
foreign  excavations,  half  of  which  have  to  be  surrendered  to  the 
Museum  on  request.  —  The  present  Director  (and  also  Director- 
General  of  the  Egyptian  Department  of  Antiquities)  is  Sir  Gaston 
Maspero;  the  Conservators  are  Emil  Brugsch- Pasha,  Ahmed- Bey 
Kumal,  and  G.  Daressy.  —  General  Catalogue  Q  Guide  to  the  Cairo 
Museum';  1913),  by  Sir  G. Maspero,  20 pias.  Comp. also  L.Borc/iarcZt'« 
'Kunstwerke  aus  dem  agyptischen  Museum  zu  Cairo'  (Cairo,  1908). 

The  Museum  is  open  in  winter  daily,  except  the  great  Mo- 
hammedan ( Beiram  and  Kurban  Beiram)  and  public  festivals,  from 
9  till  4.30,  in  summer' (May- Oct.)  from  8.30  to  1,  on  Frid. 
tliroughout  the  year  from  10  to  12;  admission  5  pias.  (in  summer 
1  pias.,  Mon.  free).  Sticks  and  umbrellas  are  given  up  at  the  en- 
trance (no  fee). 


MUSEE    DES 


alier    Oal^r 
prd-Ouesl ) 

G  ,^  L  e_  T 


\  .1  .  .'*ii'. 

-  MUSEE    DES    ANTIQUITES     EGYPT  lENNES 


IMZMl 


If    \l :[...]  if '!^rf 


S^ 


f '  ^  ''.■■•''If 

V-^  fi..M^.. ... 


■^M 


N 


Oround  floor.  CAIUO.  4.  lioulc.    81 

Stuuemts  of  special  subjects  should  apply  to  the  director  or  to  one  of 
the  conservators.  —  There  is  no  restrictinn  on  Copying.  Sketchin<;,  or 
Photographing  the  exhiliits,  except  that  the  permission  of  the  director  is 
required  for  scttin;^  up  an  oasel  or  tripoii-stand.  —  In  the  Sale  Room  (see 
helowj  antiquities  (the  genuineness  of  which  is  guaranteed  by  the  Museum 
authoritie.«)  may  be  purchased;  also  photographs,  picluri-  pust-cards,  and 
the  official  publications  of  Ihe  Jluseum.  Travellers  going  on  to  Upper 
Egypt  should  provide  themselves  here  with  a  General  Admission  Ticket 
of  the  Service  des  AntiquiUs  de  rEgypte  (comp.  p.  200),  admitting  them  to 
all  monuments. 

The  museum-building,  covering  an  area  of  14,330  sq.  yds.,  was 
crei.'ted  in  the  Grjcco-Roman  style  in  1897-1902  by  M.  Dourgnon, 
at  a  cost  of  over  5,000,000  fr.  In  the  front-garden  rises  a  Bronze 
Statue  of  Mariette  (p.  80),  by  Denys  Puech  (1904),  behind  the 
marble  sarcophagus  of  the  great  Egyptologist. 

The  centre  of  the  main  fagade  is  occupied  by  a  porch  flanked 
with  two  massive  pillars.  Above  these  are  two  alto-reliefs  by  Ferd. 
Faivre,  representing  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt.  On  both  sides  of 
the  porch  are  colonnades  for  the  exhibition  of  monuments  of  a  large 
size.  At  the  corners  are  two  pavilions,  that  to  the  left  accommo- 
dating the  Library,  that  to  the  right  the  Sale  Room  (see  above). 

The  brown  lettering  on  our  Plan  refers  to  the  rooms  on  the  ground- 
floor,  the  black  lettering  to  the  corresponding  rooms  of  the  upper  floor. 
The  letters  (A,  B,  etc.)  designating  the  different  rooms  are  marked  on  the 
walls.  —  At  the  entrance  to  each  room  of  the  groundfloor  hangs  a  diagram 
showing  the  positions  of  the  larger  and  more  important  objects.  This 
should  in  each  case  be  consulted  as  the  frequent  rearrangement  of  the 
f  xhibits  prevents  absolute  accuracy  in  our  description  (comp.  p.  90). 

A.   Ground  Flooe. 

On  the  groundfloor  are  the  more  ponderous  monuments.  Oppo- 
site the  entrance  is  the  — 

KoTUNDA,  forming  the  centre  of  the  Principal  Gallery  (see  below 
and  p.  89).  In  the  four  niches  are  colossal  statues:  615,  616,  Two 
king^  of  the  Middle  Empire,  afterwards  usurped  by  Kamses  II. ; 
11.  Ramses  II. ;  12.  Amenhotep,  the  son  of  Hapu,  a  sage  of  the 
time  of  Amenophis  III.  (18th  Dyn.).  Farther  on  by  tlie  pillars, 
to  the  lelt,  510.  Statue  of  Scsostris  III.,  to  the  right,  509.  Statue 
of  a  king  of  the  13th  Dyn.,  both  from  Karnak.  —  In  the  Portico 
(Portique  des  quatre  Fillers)  behind  the  liotunda  are  two  large 
wooden  boats  found  near  the  N.  Pyramid  of  Dahshi'ir. 

Principal  Gallery  (Grande  iialerie  cCJIonneurJ,  West  Wing: 
liy  th<!  pillars.  13.  Colossal  statue  of  Sesostris  I.  as  Osiris,  from 
Abydos;  17.  Statue  of  the  same  king,  from  Karnak.  —  Sarcophagi 
of  the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires,  behind  most  of  whii;h  stand 
large  door-shaped  steles.  —  30.  Alabaster  coffin  from  Dahshur; 
44.  Granite  coffin  of  Khufu-onekh,  adorned  on  tlu;  outside  witli 
doors  through  which  the  deceased  might  quit  his  coffin;  34.  Cofflii 
of  Tegi,  from  Thebes,  with  representations  on  the  inside  of  food, 
weapons,  and  ornaments  for  the  use  of  the  deceased  in  the  future 


oL    Route  i.  CAIRO.  6.  Kyyptian  Muxcum. 

life;  38.  Wouileii  coffiii  of  Prince  Ainenemhet,  with  a  smaller  one 
witliin  it.  —  i5y  the  pillars,  518,  519.  Colossal  statues  of  Sesostris  1., 
from  Karuak.  —  50,  51.  Low  reliefs  from  the  tomb  of  Sahu. 

50.  The  deceased  sits  at  a  lable  covered  with  sacrificial  gifts  (meat, 
(liiwers,  and  fruits),  while  other  gifts  are  brought  to  liim  by  servants. 
51.  Sabu  is  being  Ijorne  in  a  litter,  while  below  servants  carry  statues 
of  the  deceased  to  the  tomb;  the  victims  are  dismembered;  the  deceased 
sails  ou  the  Nile;  he  visits  his  flocks. 

Vestibule  of  the  South  West  Staircase  (Vedibule  d'EscaUer 
Sud-Ouest).  —  S.  wall:  61.  Reliefs  from  the  wall  of  a  tomb  represent- 
ing Governor  Ipi,  with  his  wife  Senbct  and  two  daughters,  inspect- 
ing the  harvest  operations,  and  Ipi  borne  in  his  litter  to  the  river, 
upon  which  boats  are  floating. 

We  now  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  the  rooms  containing  the  — 

KEonuments  of  the  Ancient  Empire  (ea.  2980-2475  B.C.). 

Tlie  first  iour  rooms  (A-D )  contain  the  monuments  of  the  3rd- 
6th  Dynasties,  found  mostly  at  Gizch,  Sakkara,  and  Abydos. 

Gallery  A.  Statues,  walls  of  tombs,  false  doors.  —  By  the 
pillars,  Wall-paintings  from  the  mastaba  of  Ra-hotep  (comp. 
p.  83),  in  which  the  silhouettes  of  the  figures  are  hollowed  out 
and  filled  in  with  various  pigments :  to  the  right,  snaring  birds 
and  ploughing,  to  the  left,  a  hunt  in  the  desert.  —  Nos.  91,  92. 
Two  alabaster  tables  of  offerings.  Two  lions  support  each  of  the 
tables  in  a  slightly  tilted  position,  so  that  the  libations  ran  down 
into  a  vase  placed  between  the  tails  of  the  lions.  - —  In  Case  A  arc 
four  royal  statues:  96.  Khephren  ,  97.  Mykerinos,  98.  Nuserre 
(5th  Dyn.),  99.  Menkewhor;  *10'2.  Upper  part  of  the  wooden  statue 
of  a  woman.  —  By  the  projecting  walls  on  each  side  of  this  case, 
Reliefs  from  the  mortuary  temple  of  King  Sehure  (5th  Dyn.l  at 
Abusir  (p.  1411  '■  E-  Slaughter  of  cattle  (below)  and  Personifications 
of  provinces  presenting  their  ofl'erings  (abovel;  P.  Two  rows  of 
figures  bearing  gifts,  with  personifications  of  the  Ocean,  Sacrifice, 
and  Grain;  A.  King  Sehure  suckled  by  the  goddess  of  the  South, 
with  the  goat-headed  god  Khnum  standing  by;  B.  Spoils  of  war  from 
Libya,  wlilch  the  goddess  of  writing  catalogues.  —  85.  Inscription, 
in  which  Uni,  a  high  official,  gives  an  account  of  his  career  under  the 
first  three  kings  of  the  6th  Dynasty.  111-113.  Rock-reliefs  from 
Sinai,  with  King  Snofru  overcoming  a  Semitic  Beduin.  *88.  Reliefs 
in  wood,  depicting  Hesi-re  standing  and  seated  at  a  meal. 

**RooM  B  contains  the  artistic  masterpieces  of  the  Ancient 
Empire. 

Opposite  the  entrance:  **140.  Wooden  statue  from  Sakkara, 
known  as  the  Sheikh  el-Beled  (village-headman),  a  uame  given  to 
it  by  the  Arabs  on  account  of  its  resemblance  to  a  well-fed  speci- 
men of  that  modern  functionary. 

The  feet,  which  had  been  broken  off,  are  re,stored  in  old  wood.  The 
arms  are  separately  worked  and  attached  to  the  body.  The  upper  part 
of  the  body  and  the  legs  are  bare,   while  from  the  hips  hangs  an  apron. 


Ground  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Rontr.    88 

In  the  haad  is  the  long  rod  of  office  (modern).  The  nmnd  head,  with  its 
short  hair,  and  the  portrait-like,  pood-natnred  face  are  remarkabl)'  life- 
like. The  eyes  are  inserted.  The.v  consist  of  pieces  of  opaque  white  quart/, 
with  pupils  I'ormed  of  rock-crystal,  and  the.v  are  framed  with  thin  plates 
of  bronze,  the  edges  of  which  form  the  eyelids. 

*138.  Diorite  statue  of  King  Khephreii ,  fouinl  in  the  valley 
temple  of  Khepliren,  the  so-called  Granitic  Temple  (comp.  p.  136). 

The  king  is  represented  in  life-size,  silting  on  a  throne,  which  is  bnrne 
liy  two  lions.  At  the  sides  of  the  seat  are  the  arms  of  Egypt,  and  on 
the  back  is  a  falcon,  protecting  the  king's  he;ul  with  its  outspread  wings. 

*141.  Statue  of  an  oflicial,  sitting  with  crossed  legs  and  writing; 
tlie  eyes  are  inserted  and  the  colouring  has  been  well  preserved. 

Case  E.  Copy  of  a  group  representing  King  Mykerinos  and  his 
wife.  Figures  of  servants  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  3155.  Nude  hoy 
carrying  a  bag  and  a  pair  of  sandals;  315G.  Woman  brewing  beer; 
3157.  Servants  lining  beer-jars  with  pitcli ;  3158.  Woman  grinding 
corn;  3159.  Baker;  3160.  Man  sitting  before  the  fire  roasting  meat 
and  shielding  his  face  from  the  glow  with  his  left  hand.  —  Case  F. 
226.  Mykerinos  between  Hathor  and  a  goddess  of  an  Upper  Egpytian 
nome;  Statues  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  —  136E.  Relief  representing 
Ra-hotep  and  his  wife  Nofret  (see  below)  watching  the  capture  of 
birds  and  the  landing  of  a  papyrus  boat ;  132,  133.  Two  large  granite 
palm-columns  from  the  mortuary  temple  of  King  Onnos  (p.  165); 
136F.  Ra-hotep  and  his  wife  at  a  hunt  in  the  desert  and  inspecting 
cattle.  —  Case  A.  Statues  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  146.  Sitting 
figure  of  a  man  with  a  long  wig;  147.  Seated  figure  of  Hekenu.  — 
Case  B.  224.  Mykerinos  between  Hathor  and  the  goddess  of  the 
Theban  nome;  *149.  Wooden  figure  of  a  man  in  a  cloak;  151.  Priest 
of  the  dead  kneeling.  —  155.  Large  tombstone  of  Ne-kew-re  and 
his  wife,  of  admirable  workmanship;  157.  Alabaster  statne  of  My- 
kerinos. —  Case  C.  225.  Mykerinos  between  Hathor  and  the  goddess 
of  the  nome  of  Diospolis  Parva  (p.  244);  159.  Statue  of  the  dwarf 
Khnemhotep ;  161.  Limestone  statue  of  a  nude  boy.  —  Case  D. 
Statues  and  family  groups.  —  142.  Seated  figure  resembling  No.  141 
(see  above),  along  with  which  it  was  found,  but  probably  represent- 
ing another  personage;  136D.  Kelief  from  the  mastaba  of  Ka-hotep 
(see  below),  with  servants  and  women  representing  the  villages  that 
belonged  to  the  deceased  and  bringing  sacrificial  gifts;  *137.  Re- 
presentation in  stucco  of  six  geese,  from  the  same  tomb;  131,  134. 
Palm-columns  from  the  mortuary  temple  of  King  Sehure  at  Abusir 
(p.  141). 

Room  C.  In  the  centre,  202.  Lotus-column  with  a  bud-capital, 
from  the  grave  of  Ptahshepses  at  Abusir  (p.  142). 

**I\oost  D.  In  the  centre,  **223.  Limestone  statues  of  Prince 
Ra-hotep  and  his  wife  Nofret,  from  his  mastaba  near  Meidum 
(p.  205),  the  colouring  still  remarkably  fresh  and  the  facial  ex- 
pression excellent  (end  of  3rd  Dyn.). 

*230.  Embossed  copper  statue  of  King  Phiops  1.,  231.  Similar 


84    lynite  i.  OAIIIO.  6.   Eijyptimi  Museum: 

statue  of  bis  son  Mercnrc,  botli  t'roiu  Hierakoiipolis  (p.  337); 
233-237.  Fragments  from  the  walls  of  tombs  (233.  Flute  and  liarp 
players,  singers,  dancers,  and  two  people  beating  time ;  234,  237. 
Boatmen  fighting;  235.  An  ape  biting  a  man  in  the  leg;  236.  The 
deceased  Eiikbeftka  receiving  from  bis  attendants  the  products  of 
his  estates  and  different  objects  for  his  tomb-equipment.  —  229. 
Statue  of  Ti,  from  Sakkara  (p.  154);  232.  Tomb-relief  (herdsmen 
with  their  cattle;  below,  fishermen  and  herdsmen  preparing  a  meal; 
to  the  right,  below,  brewing);  221,  222.  Fine  clustered  papyrus- 
columns  (p.  clix),  from  the  mortuary  temples  of  Kings  Nuserre  and 
Sehure  (p.  141);  *227,  *228.  Limestone  statues  of  the  priest  Ra- 
nofer,  from  Sakkara  ;  238.  Fragments  of  reliefs  from  the  Sanctuary 
of  the  Sun  at  Abu  Gurab  (p.  140). 

Monuments  of  the  Middle  Empire  and  of  the  Hyksos  Period 
(Dynasties  XII-XVI;  2000-1580  K.C.). 

We  pass  through  Uoom  E,  with  monuments  of  the  period  be- 
tween the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires,  into  — 

Room  F.  In  the  centre,  *280.  Wooden  statue  of  the  tutelary 
genius  (Ka)  of  King  Hor,  represented  as  a  nude  man,  bearing  the 
hieroglyph  Ka  (two  raised  arms)  on  his  head;  the  statue  was 
found  in  the  king's  tomb  by  the  S.  Brick  Pyramid  at  Dahshur 
(p.  167),  where  it  stood  in  a  wooden  shrine  (No.  281).  —  *284. 
Limestone  statue  of  Ainenemhct  III.,  from  his  mortuary  temple 
(p.  194);  285.  Table  of  offerings  of  Princess  Ptah-nofru,  in  ala- 
baster; 286.  Granite  statue  of  Queen  Nofret,  wife  of  Sesostris  I., 
from  Tanis ;  287.  Kude  painted  sandstone  statue  of  King  Mentu- 
hotep  III.  as  Osiris,  from  his  rock-tomb  at  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  305).  — 
We  return  to  Room  E  and  thence  enter  — 

*RooM  G.  In  the  centre,  *300.  Tomb-chamber  of  Harhotep,  con- 
taining his  limestone  coffin  and  adorned  with  pictures  of  house- 
hold utensils  required  by  the  deceased;  *301.  Ten  colossal  lime- 
stone statues  of  Sesostris  I.,  from  Lisht  (the  fine  reliefs  on  the 
tlirone  should  be  noticed).   307-310.  Boxes  for  entrail-vases. 

By  the  walls  and  in  Cases  A  and  B :  Statues  of  kings  and  pri- 
vate persons  of  the  Middle  Empire,  from  the  'Karnak  Cachette' 
(p.  278).  —  311.  Lower  part  of  a  tomb-wall  with  a  relief  of  a  King 
Entef  ( 11th  Dyn.)  accompanied  by  liis  hounds,  found,  like  No.  322, 
at  Drah  Abu'l  Negga  (p.  2831;  301-306.  Statues  of  Sesostris  I.  as 
Osiris,  from  Lisht.  Against  the  E.  face  of  the  central  pillar  between 
Rooms  E  and  G:  322.  Tombstone  of  the  nomarcli  Entef. 

Room  H.  360.  Tombstone  of  Prince  Mentuhotep. 

Monuments  of  the  New  Empire  (Dynasties  XVII-XX;  1580-1090  B.C.). 
Room  I.   Statues  and  steles  of  the  ISth  Dynasty.  —  Against  the 
E.  face  of  the  E.  pillar  between  Rooms  H  and  I;  417.  Large  in- 
scription of  Amosis  I.,  from  Abydos.  —  By  the  walls  (beginning  to 


Ground  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    ^5 

the  left  of  tho  entrance  of  Gallery  J):  415.  Statue  of  Amenophis  II.; 
410.  Memorial  stone  of  Amenophis  III.,  referring  to  his  victories; 
*400.  Statne  of  Thutniosls  HI.  as  a  young  man,  in  green  schist  from 
Karnak,  representel  as  treading  underfoot  the  nine  bows  sym- 
bolizing the  desert- tribes;  467.  Memorial  stone  of  Amenophis  IV. 
(p.  cii)  worshipping  the  sun;  40S.  Amenophis  IV.  sacrillcing  to  the 
sun;  466.  Amenophis  II.  protected  by  the  snake  goddess;  *4B2. 
Statue  of  Amenhotep,  son  of  Hapu  (comp.  No.  12,  p.  81),  with 
aged  features,  from  Karnak;  *4r)6.  Head  of  the  goddess  Mut  (sup- 
posed by  some  to  be  Oueen  Teye,  wife  of  Amenophis  III. ),  from 
Karnak.  —  Case  B.  *451.  Fine  head  in  black  granite  with  mild  and 
regular  features,  perhaps  King  Ilaremheb;  *45'2.  The  Queen  of 
Punt  (p.  2*23),  a  relief  from  the  temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  301); 
455.  Head  of  a  king.  —  **445,  446.  The  chapel  and  the  sacred  cow 
of  the  goddess  Hathor,  dedicated  by 'J'hutmosis  III.,  discovered  near 
the  temple  of  Deir  el-Kahri  (p.  306)  in  1906.  The  walls  of  the 
chapel,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  painted  so  as  to  imitate  the  vault 
of  heaven,  are  decorated  with  coloured  reliefs  representing  Thut- 
niosls 111.  and  women  of  liis  family  before  the  sacred  cow  and  the 
goddess  Hathor  herself.  The  cow  is  a  masterpiece  of  Egyptian  sculp- 
ture, the  head  especially  showing  close  observation  of  nature;  in 
front  of  it  stands  the  dead  king,  painted  in  black,  while  the  living 
king  is  represented  as  drawing  milk  from  the  udder.  444.  Painted 
sandstone  statue  of  Mut-nofret,  the  mother  of  Thutmosis  II.  —  Case  A. 
*425.  Statue  of  Isis,  the  mother  of  Thutmosis  III.,  with  a  gilded 
diailem,  from  Karnak ;  426.  Statuette  of  a  king,  in  petrified  wood.  — 
*'l:22.  Triumphal  monument  of  Thutmosis  III.,  from  Karnak. 

In  the  upper  part  appears  tlie  kiny;  sacrificing  in  Amnn-Re,  with  the 
p.ttrori-goddess  of  Thelii'!!  beliitirt  liim.  In  the  potitic  inscription  the  king 
is  hailed  as  a  viclor  l>y  Anion,  and  tlio   conquered  lands   are  enumerated. 

Gallery  .1.  Monuments  of  the  Middle  and  New  Empires.  —  Be- 
ginning on  the  S.  at  the  two  pillars:  531.  Sandstone  table  of  offer- 
ings, dedicated  by  a  King  Ameni-Entef  Amenemhet  (13th  Dyn.). 
532.  Colossal  bust  of  a  king  of  the  Middle  Empire;  the  name  of 
King  Merenptah  (Ameneplithes;  19th  Dyn.~)  on  the  breast  is  a  later 
addition.  533.  Fine  alabaster  table  of  ofl'erings,  dedicated  by  Se- 
sostris  II.;  50S.  Head  of  a  king,  in  grey  granite,  found  in  Bubastis. 
—  Statues  of  kings  with  high  cheek-bones,  folds  about  the  mouth, 
and  other  pertiliar  and  foreign  facial  characteristics,  and  with  hair 
auti  beards  unlike  those  of  Iilgyptians;  these  were  formerly  regarded 
as  llyksos  princes  (p.  ci),  but  are  now  attributed  with  greater  pro- 
bability to  the  end  of  the  12th  Dyn.:  *500-503.  Sphinxes,  in  black 
granite,  found  in  Tanis;  504.  Group  in  grey  granite  from  Tanis, 
representing  two  water-deities,  offering  fish  on  lotus-stems,  while 
they  carry  other  fishes  and  birds  in  snares  (on  the  front  is  en- 
graved the  name  of  King  Psusennes,  p.  civ) ;  497.  Upper  part  of  the 
colossal  statue  of  a  king,  from  Mcdiiiot  el-Faiyum.  —  *496.  Group 
of  Thutmosis  IV.  and  his  mother;  493,  491.   Statues  of  the  lion- 


oh    Rotde  d.  CAIRO.  6.   Efiyplhin  Miixcmn: 

headed  goddess  Sekhmet,  dedicated  by  Amenopliis  III.  in  the  temple 
of  Mut  at  Karnak;  *49i.  Statue  of  the  god  Khons,  from  the  temple 
of  Khons  at  Karnak  (p.  262);  490.  Sacred  snake  dedicated  by  Amen- 
ophis  II.  in  the  temple  of  Athrihis,  near  Benha. 

On  the  Staircase  to  the  Upper  Floor :  (1.)  550.  Colossal  seated 
lion,  in  red  granite,  from  Tell  Mokdam;  (r.)  551.  Praying  cyno- 
cephalus,  in  red  granite,  from  the  base  of  the  great  obelisk  at  Luxor. 

GAiJiERT  K.  Tombstones  and  fragments  of  walls  of  tombs,  of 
the  New  Empire.  —  560.  Memorial  stone  of  King  Tiit-enkh-Amun, 
referring  to  his  buildings  at  Karnak;  562.  Relief  of  a  burial  and  a 
funeral  dance;  559.  Similar  relief  from  the  tomb  of  Harmin. 

Room  L  (temporary  arrnngement).  Statues  and  reliefs  of  the 
New  Empire.  —  By  the  column  on  the  left:  578.  Group  of  Amon 
and  Mut,  dedicated  by  Sethos  I.  —  *o88.  Sacred  boat  In  granite 
from  the  temple  of  Ptah  at  Memphis;  581.  Three  sandstone  blocks 
from  Karnak,  with  representations  of  a  procession  of  the  sacred  boats 
and  of  the  dedication  of  the  two  obelisks  by  Queen  Hatshepsut. 

North  Portico  (Porttque  du  Nord).  592.  Ramses  II.,  seated 
between  Isis  and  Hatliov;  593.  Ramses  II.  and  tlie  god  Ptah-Tenen. 
—  *596.  Stone  with  memorial  inscriptions  of  Amenophis  III.,  re- 
ferring to  his  buildings  for  Amon,  and  of  Amenephthes(Merenptahl, 
referring  to  his  victories  over  the  Libyans  ('Israel  Stele"). 

This  stood  originally  in  a  temple  of  Amennpliis  III.  at  Thebes  and 
was  alterwards  used  by  King  Ainenephtlies,  who  inscribed  upon  the  back, 
(turned  towards  the  room)  a  hymn,  concludinj;  with  the  words  :  'Israel 
is  wasted  and  his  seed  is  brought  to  nought'.  This  is  the  earliest  mention 
of  Israel  in  any  Egyptian  inscription.  The  stele  was  discovered  by  Flinders 
Petrie  in  1896. 

612.  Sarcophagus  of  Thntmo.«is  I. ;  613.  Sarcophagus  of  Queen 
Hatshepsut. 

Central  Atrium  (Atrmrn  Central).  This  court  contains  the 
largest  and  heaviest  monuments,  including  the  colossal  figures  with 
which  the  Temple  of  Tanis  was  adorned  (p.  172).  On  the  N.  stair- 
case: *610.  Colossal  group  of  Amenophis  III.  and  his  consort  Teye, 
with  their  tliree  daughters;  in  front  of  it,  635.  Altar  from  the  mor- 
tuary temple  of  Sesostris  I.  at  Lisht  (p.  205);  611.  Two  chapels  de- 
dicated by  Ramses  II.,  with  representations  of  the  gods  Re,  Atum, 
and  Amon.  —  620,  631,  633.  Colossal  statues  of  unknown  kings  (of 
the  Middle  Empire),  with  the  name  of  Ramses  II.  added  at  a  later 
date  (from  Tanis);  621,  632.  King  Smenkh-ke-re  (13th  Dyn.).  — 
In  the  S.W.  corner,  *614.  Limestone  coffin  of  a  lady  of  the  harem 
of  Mentuhotep  III.  (11th  Dyn.),  from  Deir  el-Bahri,  with  interesting 
pictures  on  the  outside  (the  deceased  at  her  toilet,  cows,  etc.).  — 
In  the  centre:  634.  Point  from  the  pyramid  of  Amenemhet  III., 
from  Dahshur;  Stucco  pavement  from  the  palace  of  Amenophis  IV. 
at  Tell  el-'Amarna  (p.  212)  including  the  representation  of  a  pond 
with  lishes  and  water-fowl.  —  We  return  to  the  Nortli  Portico  and 
pass  tliTongh  it  and  Room  L  to  — 


Ground  Floor.  CAIRO.  d.  Route.    87 

Galleuy  M.  *()60.  The  celebrated  'Tablet  of  Sakkara',  found 
in  a  tomb  at  Sakk.ira,  on  one  side  of  which  is  inscribed  a  hymn  to 
Osiris,  while  on  the  other  appears  the  scribe  Tunri  praying  to  58 
Egyptian  kings,  whose  names  are  arranged  in  two  rows,  beginning 
with  Miebis  (1st  l>yu.)  and  ending  with  Kamses  II.  •,  CGI.  Memorial 
stone  of  iiamses  II.,  referring  to  the  working  of  a  sandstone  quarry 
near  Heliopnlis. 

Gallery  N.  .Monuments  of  the  New  ICmpire.  Stone  coffins  in 
the  form  of  mummies;  statues  of  private  individuals.  —  673.  Statue 
of  Amon;  675.  Fine  liead  in  granite  from  a  colossal  statue  of  Ram- 
ses II. ;  704.  r>roken  lid  of  a  sarcophagus  of  one  of  the  sacred  rams  of 
Mendes;  706.  Bed  of  black  granite  with  the  miinimy  of  Osiris. 

Uoo.M  O  ("Room  of  Apes'}.  Chiefly  monuments  of  the  19th  and 
■JOth  Dynasties.  —  765.  (>roup  representing  the  gods  Horus  and 
Seth  crowning  Ramses  III.  (figure  of  Setii  lacking),  from  Med inet 
Habu;  768.  The  scribe  Ranisesnakht,  with  Thout,  the  tutelar  of 
scribes,  sitting  on  his  shoulder.  —  Case  A.  741.  Bust  of  a  princess, 
with  well-preserved  painting,  of  the  time  of  Ramses  II.;  *745.  Busts 
of  a  man  and  a  woman,  from  Thebes;  743.  Ramses  VI.  seizing  a 
Libyan.  —  729.  Upper  part  of  the  statue  of  a  king;  728.  Two  obe- 
lisks of  Ramses  II.,  praying  cynoccphali,  and  small  chapel  with  the 
figures  of  a  scarabaius  and  of  the  god  Thout  in  the  form  of  a  cyno- 
cephalus,  from  Abu  Simbel(p.  40B);  725.  Bust  of  King  Ameneph- 
thes;  724.  Alabaster  statue  of  a  king.  —  Colossal  statue  of  Ram- 
ses II.,  in  red  granite,  found  at  Erraent  in  1913;  the  king  is  hold- 
ing two  poles  to  which  are  attached  the  heads  of  the  falcon-headed 
Horus  and  of  Isis. 

Monuments  of  the  Foreign  Dynasties  and  the  Later  Period  (1090-332  B.C.). 

Room  Q  ('Naos  Room).  Various  chapels  of  goils  (naoi)  in  granite. 
—  In  the  middle:  790.  Fragments  of  a  ohapel  dedicated  by  Nek- 
tanebos  in  the  temple  of  Saft  el-Hineh  (p.  180)  atBubastis,  covered 
with  texts  and  religious  representations;  *791.  Statne  in  green  stone 
of  the  goddess  Toeris  in  the  form  of  a  hippopotamus,  of  marvellous 
workmanship,  found  at  Karnak  (26th  Dyn.).  —  795.  Memorial  stone 
of  Ptolemy  Sotor,  found  among  the  foundations  of  the  mosque  of 
Shekhdh  at  Cairo  (p.  71);  it  relates  to  a  gift  of  lands  to  the  gods  of 
Buto  and  is  dated  in  the  7th  year  of  the  nominal  reign  of  Alex- 
ander II.,  whose  satrap  Ptolemy  calls  himself. 

Ca.se  C.  870.  Tomb-relief  of  the  Saite  period,  representing  the 
deceased  watching  the  transport  of  ornaments  intended  for  him.  — 
854-857.  Table  of  offerings,  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Hathor  as  a  cow,  before 
whom  stands  a  man  called  Psamtik,  all  found  in  the  tomb  of  the 
latter  at  Sakkara  (a  good  work  of  the  later  period).  —  829.  Fine 
vase  of  black  granite,   dedicated  to  the  god  Thout  by  King  Apries. 

r>y  the  W.  pillar  (near  the  entrance  to  Room  R)  :  858.  Memorial 
stone  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  from  Mendes  (p.  172),  relating  to  the 


88    Route  4.  CAIRO.  G.  Egyptian  Museum: 

lionours  paiti  to  the  sacred  ram  atMendes.  —  Ily  the  E.  pillar:  *851. 
'Pithom  Stele',  or  memorial  stone  of  King  Ptolemy  Philadelphus, 
from  Pithom  (p.  180),  recording  his  exploits  and  his  benefactions 
to  Egyptian  temples. 

Among  the  points  mentioned  are  the  facts  that  the  king  went  to  Persia 
and  brought  back  to  Egypt  the  images  of  gods  which  the  Persians  had 
carried  olf,  and  that  he  sent  a  fleet  of  four  ships  under  a  general  to  the 
S.  parts  of  the  Red  Sea. 

850.  Memorial  stone  of  Nektanebos,  with  a  decree  relating  to 
the  taxation  of  the  Greek  factories  and  to  the  imports  of  Naucratis, 
fonnd  at  that  town.  —  We  pass  throngh  IJoom  11  into  — 

ItOOM  S.  Ethiopian  monuments.  —  In  the  doorway:  937.  Me- 
morial stone  of  the  Ethiopian  king  Espelut  (ca.  650  B.C.),  refer- 
ring to  his  accession.  —  In  the  middle,  ^'930.  Alabaster  statue  of 
Queen  Amenertais  (25th  Dyn. ;  comp.  p.  278).  —  937.  Memorial 
stone  of  Piankhi  (p.  civ),  referring  to  his  victories  over  the  minor 
Egyptian  princes;  938.  Memorial  stone  of  Tanutamun,  referring  to 
his  campaign  against  the  Assyrians  and  their  vassals  in  Lower  Egypt; 
939.  Memorial  inscription  of  Harsiotef,  referring  to  his  victories 
over  the  Nubians;  941.  Group  of  the  god  Amon  and  an  Ethiopian 
queen,  from  Meroe.  —  By  the  pillar  at  the  entrance  to  Gallery  X: 
932.  Statue  of  Osiris,  dedicated  by  Nitocris,  daughter  of  Psam- 
metichos  I.  —  We  return  through  Room  R  and  enter  Room  T. 

Monuments  of  the  Grseco-Koman  and  Coptic  Periods 
(4th  cent.  B.C. -7th  cent.  A.D.). 

Room  T.  In  the  middle,  964.  Money-box  in  the  form  of  a  snake, 
from  a  temple  at  Ptolema'is.  —  E.  wall :  972.  Black  granite  statue 
of  an  Egyptian  scribe  named  Horns.  —  973.  Statue  of  a  man  bearing 
a  naos  with  an  image  of  the  god  Horus,  from  Mit  Rahineh. 

Case  A.  994.  Tombstone  or  stele,  sliowing  a  woman  in  a  mourn- 
ing attitude,  to  wliom  a  child  hands  a  lyre  (a  Greek  work  of  the 
3rd  cent.  B.C.);  *993.  Marble  head  of  a  Gaul,  an  original  Greek 
work  of  the  beginning  of  the  Ptolemaic  period,  from  Rhodes. 

*983.  The  famous  Decree  of  Canopus,  in  three  languages,  found 
at  Kom  el-Hisn,  6I/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Naucratis. 

The  decree  appears  above  in  hieroglyphics,  or  the  ancient  Egyptian 
written  language,  in  the  middle  in  the  popular  dialect  written  in  the 
demotic  character,  and  below  in  the  Greek  language  and  lettering.  The 
decree  was  pronounced  by  an  assembly  of  the  priests  iu  the  temple  of 
Canopus  on  3Iarch  7th  (17thTybil,  238  B.C.,  in  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  111. 
Euergetes  I.  It  praises  the  king  for  having  brought  back  the  images  of 
the  gods  from  Asia,  gained  many  victories,  preserved  peace  in  the  land, 
and  saved  it  from  imminent  famine  by  his  forethought  in  remitting  taxes 
and  importing  corn.  In  token  of  gratitude  a  resolution  is  passed  to  in- 
stitute new  festivals  in  honour  of  the  king  and  queen  and  their  ancestors, 
to  call  all  priests  also  'priests  of  the  divine  Euergetse',  to  found  a  new 
sacerdotal  class  to  be  named  after  Euergetes,  and  to  introduce  an  improve- 
ment in  the  popular  calendar  so  that  the  festival  of  Euergetes  may  always 
be  celebrated  on  the  first  day  of  the  year  as  in  the  year  of  the  decree. 
It  is  resolved  also  to  pay  permanent  honour  to  the  Princess  Berenice,  who 
died   young,    and    to    celebrate    an    annual    festival    to  her    memory.     The 


Ground  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    89 

inscriptions  lastly  declare  that  the  decree  is  to  be  inscribed  in  the  holy 
(hieroglyphic),  the  Egyptian  (demotic),  and  the  Greek  languages,  and  to 
be  exhibited  in  the  temples. 

980.  Another  copy  of  the  same  decree,  found  atTanis.  —  1016. 
Statue  of  a  priest  of  Sobek,  carrying  a  crocodile,  the  animal  sacred 
to  that  god.  —  Case  B.  *1010.  Venus  wringing  the  water  from  her 
hair.  —  We  pass  through  Room  TJ  into  — 

Room  V.  Coptic  monuments,  tombstones,  and  architectural  frag- 
ments. Fine  *Capitals  and  ornamented  friezes  from  the  Convent 
of  Jeremiali  at  Sakkara  (p.  146),  and  the  Convent  of  Bawit  (p.  218), 
illustrating  the  transition  from  Byzantine  to  Arabic  decoration.  — 

1041.  Tombstone  with  the  Madonna  and  Cliild  between  two  angels; 

1042.  Fine  capital  from  Alexandria. 

Gallkry  X.  Monuments  of  the  Later  Period,  of  the  Graeco- 
Roman  period,  and  of  Coptic  art.  —  1080.  Hathor  capital,  dedicated 
to  Neitli  by  Apries;  2004.  Emperor  in  the  guise  of  Pharaoh. 

Case  A.  *1084.  Head  of  Prince  Mentemhet,  with  peculiar 
features,  probably  of  a  negro  type ;  *1085.  Head  of  the  Ethiopian 
king  Taharka  (the  Tirhakah  of  the  Bible),  also  with  a  negro  cast  of 
features.  —  2002.  Front  part  of  a  lion,  used  as  the  spout  of  a  gutter; 
2000.  Relief  from  Luxor,  representing  Isis  and  Serapis,  the  latter 
strangling  a  gazelle. 

Case  B.  Objects  of  foreign  origin  found  in  Egypt.  433,  434. 
Small  clay  tablets  with  cuneiform  inscriptions,  found  at  Tell  el- 
'Amarna  (see  p.  212) ;  435.  Cuneiform  inscription  of  King  Nebu- 
chadnezzar relating  to  the  buiUliug  of  a  temple  at  Babylon. 

Case  C.  Post-Christiau  objects  from  the  ancient  Nubian  cem- 
etery of  'Anibeh  (p.  402)  :  statues  of  the  deceased  represented  as 
souls  in  the  form  of  birds,  terracotta  and  glass  vessels,  Mero'itic 
tombstones,  etc.  —  Architectural  fragments  from  the  Convent  of 
Bawit  and  the  Convent  of  Jeremiah  at  Sakkara  (comp.  above)  in- 
cluding columns,  capitals,  friezes,  and  niches;  *Painted  niche  from 
Bawit,  showing  (above)  God  the  Father  between  the  Archangels 
Michael  and  Gabriel,  and  (below)  the  Madonna  enthroned  and  the 
Child  Jesus  between  apostles  and  saints.  —  2020.  Coptic  inscription, 
ourid  in  a  tomb  near  Deir  el-Bahri  which  was  used  as  a  church, 
containing  a  sermon  against  heretii-s  and  the  customary  prayer  for 
the  emperor  and  his  family. 

Opposite  the  exit  from  Gallery  X,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  principal 
gallery,  are  four  columns  and  an  architrave  from  the  temple  of 
Augustus  on  the  island  of  Philae.  In  this  hall  stands  a  marble  statue 
of  a  Roman  woman  (No.  2041). 

Principal  Gallery  (Grande  Galerie  dHonneur),  East  Wing: 
Against  the  pillars,  1083.  Colossal  statue  of  a  Macedonian  king, 
perhaps  Alexander  II. ;  Statue  of  a  man  of  the  Graico-Roman  period 
in  Egyptian  costume.  —  In  the  gallery.  Large  stone  sarcophagi  of 
the   Saite  and  Ptolemaic  periods.  —  Against  the  pillars   of  the 

Baedeker's  Egyiit.    7tU  Edit.  6 


90   Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  Egyptian  Museum: 

Kotuiicla(p.  81),  *662,  663.  Statues  of  the  god  Ptah  from  the  temple 
of  Ramses  11.  at  Memphis.  —  For  the  W.  "Wing,  see  p.  81. 
We  now  asi'.end  by  the  S.E.  staircase  to  the  upper  floor. 


B.  Upper  Floor. 

As  extensive  alterations  are  to  take  place  in  the  upper  floor  during 
the  next  few  years,  many  rooms  are  for  the  time  being  re-arranged  or 
closed;  our  description,  therefore,  can  in  many  cases  make  no  claim  to 
accuracy. 

The  upper  floor  contains  chiefly  the  smaller  antiquities,  the 
mummies,  the  gold  ornaments,  and  the  objects  found  in  the  Tombs 
of  the  Kings  at  Thebes.    We  begin  with  the  E.  wing  of  the  — 

Principal  Gallery  f  r/aierie  d'Hrmneur),  where  are  exhibited  the 
coffins  and  mummies  of  the  priests  of  Amon  and  their  families, 
which  were  discovered  at  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  305)  in  1891.  These  date 
from  the  period  of  the  '21st  and  227kI  Dynasties.  Each  corpse  had 
an  outer  and  an  inner  wooden  coffin,  both  in  the  shape  of  a  mummy 
and  covered  with  yellow  varnish.  The  arms  are  crossed  over  the 
breast,  the  men  having  their  fists  clenched  while  the  hands  of 
the  women  are  open.  The  women  wear  round  earrings.  The  mummy 
was  generally  enveloped  in  a  kind  of  cover  (cartonnage)  forming  a 
full-length  representation  of  the  deceased.  In  many  cases  old 
sarcophagi  (19th  and  20th  Dyn.)  have  been  used,  and  the  original 
names  replaced  by  new  ones. 

In  the  E.  half  of  the  gallery:  *2080.  Wooden  war-chariot  of 
Thutmosis  IV.,  with  beautiful  reliefs  embossed  in  linen  covered 
with  plaster,  found  in  1903  in  the  king's  tomb  at  Thebes  (p.  298). 
Adjacent  is  the  reproduction  of  a  war-chariot,  the  original  of  which 
is  in  the  Archaeological  Museum  at  Florence.  In  the  middle:  Mum- 
mies of  the  sacred  rams  of  Elephantine  (p.  358),  with  gold  masks. 

In  the  Anteroom  (Pantheon  <le  I'Egyptologie)  to  the  small  galler- 
ies along  the  S.  front  of  the  building  are  busts  of  eminent  Egyptolo- 
gists. In  the  E.  Small  Gallery  (to  the  left)  is  the  Collection  of 
Stone  Implements  (Objets  en  silex)^  chiefly  dating  from  the  pre- 
historic Egyptian  period.  The  W.  Small  Gallery  (on  the  right) 
contains  the  — 

Natural  History  Collection  (Objets  d'histoire  naturelle).  Cases 
A  <?■  B.  Plants  from  the  coffins  of  the  priests  of  Amon  (p.  305) 
and  from  the  Falyum.  —  Cases  D  cf-  E.  Fruit  and  corn.  —  By  the 
walls  :  Flowers  and  garlands  from  the  royal  mummies.  Palm  tree 
with  a  rudely  carved  head  of  Hathor,  used  as  a  column  In  the  tomb 
of  Sennutem  (p.  318).  —  Early  Egyptian  fauna.  Two  mummies  of 
crocodiles.  —  Cases  C^-  F.  Skeletons  of  Bos  Africanus  and  Buballs 
Buselaphus.  —  Stand  G.  Mummies  of  birds.  —  Case  I.  Mummies 
and  coffins  of  apes,  dogs,  and  jackals.  —  Case  K.  Cats.  —  Case  L. 
Calves;  goats;  gazelles.  —  Case  M.  Birds  of  prey. —  CaseN.  Ibises. 
—  Case  O.  Fish ;  shells;  coffin  of  a  scarabseus. 


Upper  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    91 

We  return  to  tlie  W.  wing  of  the  Principal  Gallery,  wliicli 
likewise  contains  coffins  from  the  tomb  of  the  priests  of  Amon  (see 
p.  90).  —  Turning  to  tlie  right  we  enter  — 

Gallery  A,  which  contains  wooden  coffins  of  various  periods, 
but  later  will  have  only  those  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires. 

Room  B.  Earliest  period.  —  Case  A.  Objects  from  the  tomb  of 
Menes  (p.  224  )  and  the  ceraotery  of  Abusir  el-Melek  (p.  206);  vases 
in  hard  stone.  —  Adjacent  is  a  glass  case  with  objects  dug  up  at 
Abydos  by  Prof.  Petrie:  Fragments  of  vases  with  names  of  kings; 
two  stone  vessels  with  stoppers  of  gold-leaf.  —  Case  B.  Other  ob- 
jects from  the  tomb  of  Menes:  3021.  Ivory  tablet  with  a  sacrificial 
scene  and  the  name  of  King  Menes;  3022.  Lion  in  rock-crystal;  lion 
and  three  dogs  in  ivory;  clay  stoppers  from  beer-jars,  sealed  with 
the  king's  name  ;  cow's  feet  in  stone,  used  as  the  feet  of  chests  ;  flint 
knives;  arrow-heads;  etc.  —  Case  C.  Articles  from  the  royal  tombs 
of  Abydos  (p.  243):  Stoneware;  flint  implements;  clay  stoppers 
sealed  with  tiie  names  of  kings;  copper  utensils;  3030.  Elegant  ala- 
baster vase,  with  ornamentation  imitating  the  cord  by  which  the  vessel 
was  carried;  3033.  Seated  figure  of  King  Khasekhem  (3rd  Dyn.); 
3031.  Large  schist  palette  of  King  Narmer  (1st  Dyn.),  with  reliefs, 
from  Ilierakonpolis  (p.  337).  —  (^ases  D^-  E.  Stoneware  and  earthen- 
ware, flint  knives,  combs  and  toilet-articles,  from  burial-places  in 
Upper  Egypt ;  3040.  Vessel  of  diorito.  (the  ears  of  the  vase,  to  which 
copper  handles  are  attached,  are  plated  with  gold);  3043.  Flint  knife 
with  an  engraved  hilt  of  gold  plate;  3044.  Knife  with  a  gold  handle. 

—  In  the  N.W.  corner,  between  Cases  D  &  E:  3052.  Vase  in  red 
granite,  with  the  name  and  ligiire  of  King  Khasekhinui  (2nd  Pyn.). 

—  Case  F.  Stoneware;  3000.  Fragment  of  a  schist  palette  with  repre- 
sentations of  animals;  30H2.  Kneeling  figure  in  granite  (3rd  Dyn.). 

—  Cases  G-J.  Terracotta  stoppers.  —  Cast  K.  Tombstones  of  royal 
dwarfs  and  lap-dogs,  from  Abydos.  —  lietween  the  cases:  Tomb- 
stones of  kings  of  the  first  dynasties,  from  Abydos. 

Room  C.  Coffins  and  mummies,  chiefly  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle 
Empires.  —  Case  E.  3100.  Mummy  of  Ament,  a  lady  of  the  royal 
harem,  with  necklaces  and  tatooing  (11th  Dyn.).  —  Case  F.  Coffin 
with  rude  representations  of  men  brewing  and  women  grinding  corn. 

—  3107.  Mummy  of  King  Merenre  (6th  Dyn.),  with  a  finely  woven 
cloth;  3108.  Wooden  coffin,  standing  on  a  bier  with  lion's  feet. 

Room  D.  Objects  found  in  tombs  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle 
Empires.  —  Case  A.  Wooden  models  of  boats  which  were  used  for 
pleasure-trips  or  for  conveying  the  ilead.  —  Case  B.  I'Mgures  of  fe- 
male servants  with  sacrificial  offerings;  models  of  kitchens;  3124. 
Potter's  workshop;  31211.  Joiner's  workshop;  3l2(t.  Master  and 
mistress  of  a  house  listening  to  their  servants  singing  and  playing 
on  the  harp.  —  Case  C.  3136.  Mode!  of  a  kitchen  in  whieli  a  butcher, 
a  cook,  and  a  brewer  are  at  work;  3137.  Wooden  chest  with  bronze 
models  of  sacrificial  vessels.   In  the  desk-case:  Models  of  sacrificial 

6'* 


92    Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  Egyptian  Museum: 

utensils.  —  Case  D.  '-'Small  limestone  statue  of  a  harp  player;  small 
bronze  tables  with  vessels;  head-rests;  models  of  sacrificial  geese.  — 
Case  E.  Models  of  boats  and  storehouses;  kitchen;  servants  with 
sacrificial  offerings;  wooden  and  gilded  models  of  sandals;  head- 
rests. —  Cases  F  if  G.  Wooden  models  of  boats.  ■ — •  Case  H.  Boats; 
wooden  figures;  statuettes  of  servants;  3195,  3196.  Two  female 
servants,  each  with  a  basket  on  her  head  and  a  goose  in  her  hand ; 
3194,  Kitchen.  —  Case  I.  Boats,  in  one  of  which  are  soldiers  with 
shields;  models  of  storehouses.  —  Case  J.  Figures  of  servants; 
cattle  feeding.  —  Case  K.  Figures  of  attendants;  3224.  Man  carry- 
ing boxes.  In  the  middle:  3220.  Wooden  figure  of  a  man  in  whose 
tomb  most  of  these  figures  were  found  (6th  Dyu.j.  —  Case  L.  Models 
of  boats;  small  barks  of  the  sun. 

Room  E.  Coffins  of  the  late  period.  —  3262.  Wooden  bier  from 
Akhmim.  —  Case  A.  (Jartonnage  of  the  niuinmy  of  a  woman,  from 
Thebes  (22nd  Dyn. ),  fresh  and  beautiful  in  colonr. 

Room  F.  Objects  found  in  tombs  of  the  Middle  and  New  Em- 
pires. —  In  the  centre :  (Hass  Cases  H  ^'  1.  Two  wooden  coffins  from 
Benihasan,  on  which  stand  (in  their  original  arrangement)  models 
of  kitchens,  ships,  barns,  and  figures  of  attendants.  —  Glass  Cases 
J Sf  K.  *3345.  Forty  Flgyptian  soldiers  with  shield  and  spear,  *3346, 
Forty  negro  soldiers  with  bow  and  flint-headed  arrows,  found  in  the 
tomb  of  the  Nomarch  Mesehti  of  Assiut.  —  Glass  CaseF.  3347.  Large 
wooden  boat,  with  two  cabins,  from  the  snmc  tomb. —  Behind  Case  F: 
*Two  coffins  and  mummy-mask  of  Mesehti.  —  By  the  walls:  Case  A. 
Models  of  houses  and  barns,  in  terracotta  and  wood,  being  gifts  to 
the  dead.  —  Case  B.  Canopic  jars.  —  Case  C.  Wooden  head-rests; 
Ushebtis  (p.  cxlviii).  —  Case  D.  Sticks,  sceptres,  clubs;  wooden 
models  of  weapons  and  utensils.  —  Case  E.  Wooden  models  of 
shields;  mummy-masks.  —  CaseF.  Bronze,  fayence,  and  alabaster 
vases  for  oil.  —  Case  G.  (Janopic  jars;  alabaster  vases  in  the  form 
of  slaughtered  geese.  —  Cane  II.  Terracotta  models  of  kitchens; 
wooden  baskets  with  models  of  sacrificial  offerings. 

Room  G.  <Jrnaments  and  amulets  of  mummies.  —  Cases  A  ^'  Y. 
3370,  3600.  Two  mummies  of  the  later  period  with  masks,  breast 
ornaments,  and  other  adornments  of  gilded  and  painted  cartonnage. 

—  Case  B.  Above,  Wooden  grave  tablets  of  the  later  period ;  wooden 
head-rests ;  in  the  desk-case,  scarabaei,  which  were  laid  on  the  breast 
of  the  mummy  in  place  of  the  heart.  —  Case  C.  Above,  Wooden 
grave  tablets;  models  of  women  lying  on  beds,  the  harem  of  the 
deceased.  In  the  desk-case,  scarabsi  from  the  breasts  of  mummies. 

—  Cases  D,  //,  K^  N,  Q,  £?'  U.  Canopi,  or  jars  for  the  entrails  of  the 
dead,  with  lids  in  the  shape  of  the  heads  of  the  guardian  deities 
of  the  deceased  (p.  cxlix).  —  Case  E.  Above,  Wooden  boxes  for 
ushebtis,  or  figures  of  the  dead;  in  the  desk-case,  Amulets  from 
the  breasts  of  mummies;  tablets  with  eyes,  which  were  laid  on  the 
dead  at  the  spot  where  tlie  incision  was  made  for  the  embalming.  — 


V-pper  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.  93 

Case  F.  3365.  Figure  of  the  goddess  Nephthys,  protecting  Osiris. — 
Case  0.  Above,  Wooden  boxes  for  ushebtis.  In  the  desk- case, 
Tablets  with  eyes  (see  p.  92);  falcons  with  outspread  wings.  — 
Cases  I,  J,  L,  (S-  M.  Figures  of  the  dead,  including  one  belonging  to 
the  vizier  Ptahmose  (No.  3377)  in  white  and  blue  fayence;  3375. 
Amenmose,  in  bronze;  3378.  Bier  with  a  mummy  beside  which  is 
seated  the  soul ;  small  coffins  with  ushebtis.  —  Cases  0-R.  Above, 
Mummy  masks;  bead-nets  of  mummies;  small  wooden  coffins  with 
falcons'  heads,  for  the  entrails  of  the  deceased;  in  the  desk-case, 
Amulets;  magic  wands  with  curious  representations.  —  Case  S. 
3505.  Wooden  figure  of  Isis  (companion-piece  in  Case  F ).  —  Case  T. 
Above,  Wooden  figures  of  Osiris.  In  the  desk-case,  Eyes  and  other 
amulets.  —  Case  V.  Above,  Figures  of  Osiris;  wooden  falcons.  In 
the  desk-case,  Round  tablets  with  representations  of  the  gods,  whicii 
were  placed  under  the  heads  of  the  mummies  as  amulets.  —  Case  X. 
Parts  of  the  coverings  of  mummies;  a  boat.  In  the  desk -case, 
Leather  ends  of  mununy-straps  with  pictures  stamped  on  them. 

Royal  Mummies. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  New  Empire  the  vower  of  the  Egyptian  state  was 
no  longer  in  a  position  to  protect  even  the  last  resting-places  of  the  dead. 
Not  only  the  necropoli.'  at  Drah  Abn'l  Negga  (p.  283),  btit  even  the  secluded 
tombs  in  the  'Valley  of  Kings'  (p.  284)  were  plundered.  The  authorities 
i-ontentfd  themselves  with  rescuing  the  mummies  of  the  ancient  Pharaohs. 
Thus  the  bodies  of  nine  kings  were  walled  up  in  a  side-chamber  of  the 
tomb  of  Amcnophis  II.  Eur  the  same  reason  the  mummy  of  Kamses  II.  was 
transferred  from  its  tomb  at  Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  287)  to  that  of  Sethos  I., 
and  when  that  refuge  ceased  to  be  deemed  secure  it  was  removed  to  the 
tomb  of  Amenophis  I.  Finally,  under  the  21st  Dyn.,  it  was  resolved  to 
protect  the  royal  mummies  from  further  profanation  by  interring  them  all 
together  in  a  rocky  cleft  near  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  305;,  which  was  artificially 
widened  for  the  purpose.  The  corpses  of  the  ruling  dynasty  also  were 
placed  here.  Thus  at  last  the  remains  of  the  great  monarchs  of  the  New 
Empire  —  Amosis  I.,  Thutmosjs  III.,  Sethos  I.,  and  Ramses  II.  —  were  left 
in  peace  until  in  1875  the  fellahin  once  more  discovered  their  secret  resting- 
place  and  the  plundering  of  the  mummies  began  again.  In  1881  the  modern 
thieves  were  traced  and  their  finds  secured  fir  preservation  in  the  museum 
at  Cairo.  It  was  not  till  1898  that  Loret  discovered  the  group  of  mummies 
in  the  tomb  of  Amenophis  II.:  and  these  were  transferred  to  the  Museum 
in  1901.  Other  royal  tombs  (of  Thutmosi.s  1.  and  II.)  have  since  been 
excavated  by  Loret  and,  in  1903-12,  by  the  Egyptian  Department  of  Anti- 
quities, at  the  expense  of  Theodore  M.  Davis,  of  America.  Comparatively 
few  mummies  of  kings  or  their  relatives  have  been  discovered  in  their 
original  tombs  (comp.  Room  U). 

Room  H  (Salle  Theodore  M.  Davis).  **Coffins  and  other  articles 
found  in  1905-8  in  the  graves  of  Yu'e  and  his  wife  Tu'e  (the  pa- 
rents-in-law of  Amenophis  III.),  of  Queen  Teye  (wife  of  Ameno- 
phis III.),  and  of  Queen  Tewosret.  —  Case  A.  **3610-3tJl'2.  Canopic 
jars,  witli  beautifully  executed  heads  of  Amenophis  IV.  forming  the 
lids.  —  Case  B.  Couch  with  figures  of  the  god  Bes.  —  Case  C.  Bier, 
on  the  linen  of  which  is  the  figure  of  the  so-called  vegetating  Osiris, 
outlined  in  sown  barley.  —  Case  D.  At  the  foot:  Alabaster  and 
terracotta  jars  of  Tewosret;  vase  of  light  green  fayence  with  the  name 


34:    Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  lujijplian  Museum: 

of  Sethos  II.  In  the  two  upper  divisions  are  objects  from  the  tomb  of 
Teye :  Three  fine  cosmetic-pots,  small  models  of  papyrus  rolls,  boxes 
aud  vessels,  two  small  figures  of  Bes,  woman  carrying  a  jar  (cos- 
metic-pot), ail  of  light  green  fayence.  —  Case  E.  Lowest  division: 
Basket  in  the  form  of  a  house;  sandals;  alabaster  vessels;  wooden 
model  of  a  bier.  Central  division :  Large  col'fln  for  an  usbebti,  or 
statuette  of  the  dead ;  gilded  figures  of  the  same  kind ;  wooden  models 
of  vases.  Upper  division:  Gilded  mask  of  Yu"e;  wooden  cases; 
bronze  hoes  and  sacks  for  ushebtis.  —  Case  F.  Delicately  execut- 
ed ushebtis;  cases  for  similar  figures;  fine  alabaster  jar;  two  small 
masks  from  canopic  jars  (see  below).  —  Cases  G-J.  Four  wooden 
coffins  of  Yu'e,  which  originally  lay  one  within  another,  the  three 
inner  ones  gilded  and  in  the  form  of  a  mummy.  —  Case  K.  Mummy 
of  Tu  e.  • —  Cases  L,  S,  T.  Three  coffins  of  Tu'e ;  the  smallest  (inner- 
most) coffin  is  gilded  and  its  hieroglyphics  and  ornaments  are  beauti- 
fully inlaid  with  gems  and  glass;  the  outermost,  with  an  arched  lid, 
stands  on  a  sled.  —  **Case  M.  Chariot  of  Tu'e;  wooden  chair  decorated 
with  heads  of  women  and  with  well-preserved  cane-plaiting,  while 
on  the  back  appears  the  Princess  Sitamun,  receiving  the  'gold  of  the 
Southlanders' ;  gilded  chair,  on  the  back  of  which  appear  Queen  Teye 
and  her  daughter  Sitamun  in  a  boat;  small  chair,  with  cushion,  the 
back  and  sides  showing  the  god  Bes  and  the  goddess  Toeris;  two 
jewel-cases  richly  adorned  with  enamel.  —  Case  N.  Black  wooden 
bed  painted  in  white  in  imitation  of  ivory  inlay.  —  Case  O.  Bed 
adorned  with  figures  of  Bes  and  Toeris.  —  Case  P.  *3682.  Ushebti 
figure  in  alabaster;  3683.  Bowl  of  light  blue  fayence  of  King  Tut- 
enkh-Amun.  —  Case  Q.  Lowest  division :  Two  boxes  for  the  vessels 
containing  the  entrails  of  Yu'e  and  Tu'e,  in  the  form  of  coffins  stand- 
ing on  sleds;  four  alabaster  vessels,  containing  the  embalmed  en- 
trails of  Tu'e  under  a  gold  mask.  Central  division  :  Gilded  mummy- 
mask  of  Tu'e,  enveloped  in  a  fine  linen  cloth,  which  has  turned 
black;  wooden  vases  painted  to  imitate  stone.  Upper  division:  Cases 
with  embalmed  sacrificial  offerings.  —  Case  V.  Mummy  of  Yu'e ;  the 
incision  on  the  left  sirle  of  the  stomach,  for  embalming  purposes, 
is  covered  with  a  plate  of  gold. 

*llooM  I.  Objects  found  in  the  royal  tombs.  —  Case  B.  Wooden 
models  of  barks  of  the  sun.  —  Case  C.  Articles  from  the  tomb 
of  Thutmosis  IV.    Above:  Cow's  head,  vases,   and  articles  shaped 

like  "T"  ('crux  ansata'),  in  blue  fayence;  fragments  of  embroideries 

in  the  so-called  Kelim  style,  vvitli  lilies  and  the  name  of  Thut- 
mosis IV.  In  the  desk- cases:  Ushebtis  and  their  coffins;  magic 
wands  in  blue  fayence;  3750.  Fragment  of  an  ushebti  in  white 
fayence  with  blue  writing;  leather  quiver  and  sandals.  —  Cases 
D-F.  Articles  from  the  tomb  of  Amenophis  II.  Above:  'Large 
cow's  head  and  calf's  head,  carved  in  wood;  vessels  in  fayence  and 
glass;   two  serpents  in  wood,   one  with  a  human  head 'and  out- 


Upper  Floor.  GAIHU.  4.  Route.    95 

spread  wings.  In  the  desk-cases  below:  Fragments  of  coloured  glass 
vessels.  —  Case  E.  Black  wooden  figures  of  the  king;  two  wooden 
panthers;  wooden  vulture;  coffins  for  ushebti  figures.  In  the  desk- 
cases  below :  Magic  wands  and  'cruccs  ansata;"  (see  p.  94),  of  blue 
fayence;  weapons.  —  Case  F.  Above:  Wooden  swan;  alabaster  figure 
of  Horns;  wooden  figures  of  kings  and  of  gods.  Tn  the  desk-cases 
below:  Blue  fayence  vessels,  some  in  the  shape  of  the  'crux  ansata' 
(see  p.  94).  —  Case  G.  Articles  from  the  tomb  of  Thutmosis  111. 
Above:  Wooden  swan;  papyrus;  below:  Models  of  magic  wands  and 
tools.  —  Case  H.  Above:  3744  a.  Large  wig;  figure  of  Isis,  whicli 
contained  the  papyrus  buried  with  Queen  Hent-tewe;  canopic  jars; 
below:  Ushebti  figures  in  blue  fayence.  —  Case  I.  Above:  3746a. 
Case  with  the  mummy  of  a  gazelle;  wigs;  below:  Blue  ushebtis. — 
Case  J.  Above:  3750a.  Case  for  the  ushebtis  of  King  Pinotem;  fine 
goblets  in  glass  and  fayence;  3751a.  Wooden  tablet  with  a  decree 
in  favour  of  Princess  Nes-khons;  3754a.  Casket  of  wood  and  ivory 
with  the  name  of  Ramses  IX.  In  the  desk-cases:  3760  a.  Small  coffin, 
in  which  a  human  liver  was  found;  embalmed  portions  of  sacrificial 
animals;  fruit. —  CaseK.  Above :  3770.  Reed  casket  with  wig  of  Est- 
em-kheb  (p.  96);  3768.  Inlaid  casket  of  Queen  Kemare-Hatshepsut 
(18th  Dyn.)  with  the  entrails  of  Queen  Kemare  (21st  Dyn.);  3769. 
Marvellously  fine  winding-sheet  from  the  mummy  of  Thutmosis  III.; 
below.  Fayence  goblet  of  Princess  Nes-khons;  3771.  Mirror-case 
inlaid  with  ivory,  from  the  tomb  of  Amenophis  II.  —  Case  L.  Box 
of  palm-leaves,  for  sacrificial  gifts;  winding-sheets. 

Gallery  J  (temporary  arrangement).  Articles  from  the  tomb  of 
Me'i-her-peri,  the  fan-bearer  (p.  297  ;  18th  Dyn.).  —  Case  A.  Large 
rectangular  coffin,  with  a  lid  sliaped  like  a  gable-roof;  within  this 
is  a  second  long  mummy-shaped  coffin  (black,  with  gilding),  which 
never  contained  the  mummy.  —  Case  B.  *3782.  Quiver  of  red 
leather  with  stamped  ornamentation,  a  lid,  and  a  green  border; 
arrows;  dog-collar  of  pink  leather,  bearing  the  animal's  name; 
another  leathern  quiver,  not  so  well  preserved;  bracelets  and  neck- 
laces; blue  fayence  dish;  *Polyclironie  glass  vase;  draught-board  and 
men.  —  Case  C.  Chest  for  tlie  entrail-jars,  in  the  form  of  a  naos 
standing  on  a  sledge.  —  Case  D.  3807.  Gilded  wooden  coffin  that 
contained  the  mummy  of  Mei-her-peri.  —  Case  E.  Wooden  bier  with 
the  painted  figure  of  the  vegetating  Osiris  (see  p.  93).  —  Case  F. 
Partly  gilded  wooden  coffin  of  Mei'-her-iieri.  —  Behind  Cases  D,  E, 
&  F  is  Mei-her-peri's  Book  of  tlie  Dead  (comp.  p.  102),  with  col- 
oured vignettes  (one  of  the  finest  examples).  —  Stand  H.  Wooden 
boxes  with  provisions  for  the  dead.  —  Stand  I.  Large  jars. 

In  the  N.  part  of  the  gallery  are  articles  found  in  the  royal  tombs. 
—  Case  A.  3820.  Coffin  and  mummy  of  Teu-hert,  chief  singer  of 
Amon;  3821.  Coffin  and  mummy  of  the  priest  Nebseni. —  Case  B. 
3822.  Coffin  and  mummy  of  Masaherte,  high-priest  of  Amon  and 
commander-in-chief,   son   of  King  I'inotom  I.;    3823.   Coffin  and 


96    Route  4.  CAIRO.  6'.  Eyyplian  Museum: 

mummy  of  a  woman  (18th  Dyn.);  3824.  Coffin  of  Senu.  —  Case  C. 
3825.  Small  white  coffin  of  Princess  Sitamun,  daughter  of  Amosis  I. ; 
the  mummy  was  stolen  in  antiquity  and  replaced  by  a  doll  with  a 
child's  skull.   3826.  Small  coffln  containing  the  mummy  of  a  child. 

—  Case  D.  3827.  Coffin  of  Rai,  nurse  of  Queen  Nefret-ere  (p.  97), 
whose  mummy  was  replaced  in  antiquity  by  that  of  a  queen.  — 
Case  E.  Objects  found  in  the  tomb  of  King  Haremheb  (18th  Dyn.), 
which  was  discovered  by  Davis  in  1908;  head  of  the  king  in  alabaster, 

—  CaseF.  Other  objects  from  the  same  tomb:  wooden  figures  covered 
with  pitch  (two  hippopotamus-heads,  lions'  heads,  jackals,  seated 
god,  etc.).  —  By  the  pillars  at  the  entrance  to  Room  1:  Upper  halves 
of  two  colossal  wooden  figures  of  Haremheb. 

**Galleet  K  (Landing  of  the  N.  W.  Staircase).  In  the  centre : 
3840.  Drawing  prepared  from  the  remains  of  a  very  artistic  pall. — 
Case  R.  3841.  Double  coffln  with  mummy  of  Zet-Ptah-efonekh, 
priest  of  Amon;  3842.  Coffln  of  Queen  Hent-tewe. 

South  Side  of  the  Gallery.  Case  A.  Lid  of  the  coffln  of  Queen 
Kemare.  —  Case  B.  3845.Coffln  with  the  mummies  of  Queen  Kemare, 
who  died  in  childbirth,  and  her  infant  daughter;  3846.  Coffln  of  the 
priestess  Nes-tenebt-asher  (21st  Dyn.);  3847.  Coffln  of  Pinotem  I. 

—  Case  C.  Coloured  coffin-lid  of  Queen  Kemare.  —  Case  D.  3849. 
Coffln  and  mummy  of  Princess  Nes-khons ;  3850.  Coffln  of  Queen 
Notmet,  mother  of  the  priest-king  Herihor  (21st  Dyn.),  with  fine 
inlays  of  glass.  —  Case  E.  3851.  Coffin-lid  of  Pinotem  I.;  3852. 
Coffin  and  mummy  of  Pinotem  XL,  the  high -priest.  —  Case  F. 
3853.  Coffln  of  a  high-priest  of  the  18th  Dyn.,  with  the  mummy 
of  Ramses  VI.  —  Cases  I  ^-  J.  3854.  Cofflns  and  mummy  of  Princess 
Est-em-kheb;  3855.  White  coffln  with  the  mummy  of  a  poisoned 
prince.  —  Case  G.  Coloured  coffin-lid  of  Princess  Est-em-kheb.  — 
Case  H.  3857.  Coffin  and  mummy  of  Ramses  IV.;  3858.  Mummy  of 
Ramses  V.;  3859.  Mummy  of  a  King  Ramses  (20th  Dyn.).  —  Case  I. 
3860.  Coffln-lid  of  Amenophis  I.  (see  below).  —  Case  J.  3861. 
Mummy  of  RamsesIII. ;  3862.  Coffln  andmummy  of  SiptahMerenptah 
(19th  Dyn.);  3863.  Seth-nakht,  father  of  Ramses  III.  —  Case  K. 
Enormous  coffin  of  Queen  Ahhotep,  wife  of  Amenophis  I. 

Centre  of  the  Gallery.  Glass  Case  L.  Coffin  and  mummy  of 
Amenophis  I.,  with  garlands  of  flowers.  —  Glass  Case  M.  Coffln 
and  mummy  of  Sethos  I.  —  Glass  Case  N.  Ramses  II. 

North  Side  of  the  Gallery.  Case  0.  3868.  Coffin -lid  of 
Ramses  II.  —  Case  P.  3869.  Mummy  of  Ramses  I. ;  3870.  Mummy 
of  Amenephthes,  son  and  successor  of  Ramses  II.  and  considered  by 
the  Alexandrian  tradition  to  be  the  Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus;  3871. 
Mummy  of  Sethos  II.  —  Case  O.  3872.  Coffin-lid  of  Sethos  I.  — 
Case  P.  3873.  Coffln  and  mummy  of  Thutmosis  IV.;  3874.  Mummy 
of  Amenophis  III. ;  3875.  Mummy  of  a  princess  (18th  Dyn.).  — 
Case  Q.  3876.  Coffln  of  a  princess;  3877.  Coffln  of  King  Kemose; 
3878.  Coffin  and  mummy  of  Thutmosis  III.  —  Case  R.  3879.  Gilded 


Upper  tioor.  GAIKO.  4.  Itouic.    97 

cofflu-lid  of  Queen  Ahhotep  (p.  98).  —  Caic  S.  3880.  Coffin  and 
mummy  of  Thutmosis  I. ;  ^881.  Thutmosis  11.;  3882.  Mummy  of 
Nefret-ere.  —  Case  T.  3884.  Coffin  and  mummv  of  Sekeiiyen- 
re  III.  (16th  Dyn.);  ^385.  Amosis  (17th  Dyn.);  3886.  Coffin  and 
mummy  of  Siamun,  son  of  Amosis. 

Jewelry. 

**RooM  L  ( Jewel  Room)  contains  the  Egyptian  jewelry,  illustrat- 
ing the  art  of  working  in  gold  and  other  metals  from  the  earliest 
times  down  to  the  Qrieco-Roman  and  Byzantine  eras. 

In  Cases  I  &  II,  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  is  the  **Treasure  of 
DahsMr.  which  was  discovered  by  Mr.  J.  de  Morgan  in  1894  and 
1895  in  the  tombs  of  various  princesses  of  the  12th  Dyn.  near  the 
pyramids  of  Dahshiir  (p.  166),  and  shows  the  work  of  the  Egyptian 
goldsmiths  at  its  very  best. 

Case  I  (W.).  A.  Jewels  of  Princess  Ite:  Dagger,  the  hilt  in- 
laid with  gems,  the  crescent-shaped  pommel  in  lapis  lazuli;  cornel- 
ian falcon;  fan.  —  **B-D.  Jbwkls  of  Prinxess  Khnumet.  B.  Four 
gold  necklaces  of  the  finest  workmanship,  one  adorned  with  a 
butterfly,  the  others  with  rosettes  and  stars ;  gold  chain-pendants 
inlaid  with  gems  representing  hieroglyphics.  C.  Necklaces,  one  of 
which  is  formed  of  the  three  hieroglyphics  for  'life',  'wealth',  and 
'endurance';  two  falcons'  heads  inlaid  with  gems;  bracelets  of  gold 
beads.  /).  *Two  gold  crowns  inlaid  with  gems;  one  of  these  con- 
sists of  a  net  held  by  six  ornaments  in  the  form  of  flowers  and 
adorned  with  forget-me-nots,  the  other  consists  of  rosettes  and  lyre- 
shaped  ornaments.  To  the  latter  belong  two  other  ornaments,  a 
hovering  vulture  and  a  gold  branch.  —  E.  Plates  of  silver  and  copper 
for  mirrors,  chains,  gold  needles,  etc.  —  F.  Chains  (rcstrung).  — 
At  the  top  of  the  case :  Chains  and  nets  of  gold  beads  (restrung) 
and  semi-precious  stones. 

Case  II  (E.).  A.  Jewels  of  the  Princb.ss  Itk-Weret:  Large 
breast-ornaments,  bracelets,  small  chisels  with  gold  blades.  —  B-D. 
Jewels  of  Peixcess  Mererbt.  B.  Portions  of  mirrors  (head  of 
llathor,  goddess  of  love;  head  of  a  lioness).  C.  Gold  necklace  with 
small  gold  shell-shaped  pendants;  pendants  in  the  form  of  larger 
gold  shells  and  double  lion-heads.  I).  Gold  pectoral  or  breast- 
ornament  inlaid  with  gems;  at  the  top  is  a  vulture  with  outspread 
wings  representing  the  goddess  Nekhbeyet;  below  is  the  cartouche 
of  Sesostris  III.,  to  the  right  and  left  of  which  are  two  griffins,  as 
symbols  of  the  king,  each  trampling  upon  two  Asiatic  foes. 
Pectoral  of  the  same  kind;  at  the  top  is  the  vulture,  below  on 
either  side  appears  King  Amcnemhet  III.,  smiting  a  kneeling 
Asiatic  with  his  mace.  Two  gold  bracelet-clasps  with  coloured  gems 
and  the  Tiame  of  King  Amenemhet  III.  Gold  shell,  ornamented 
with  lotus-flowers  inlaid  in  coloured  stones;  two  gold  tubes  for 
written  amulets;  gold  necklaces  and  portions  of  necklaces;  scarab;ei 


oO    Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  Eijyplian  Museum: 

of  semi- precious  stones;  rings  with  scarabaei.  —  E,  Jewki.s  of 
Peincess  Sit-Hathor.  Gold  pectoral  inlaid  with  stones,  with 
the  cartouche  of  Sesostris  II.  in  the  middle,  on  either  side  of 
which  is  a  falcon  perched  upon  the  hieroglyphic  symbol  for  'gold' 
and  wearing  the  Egyptian  double  crown;  gold  pendant  inlaid  with 
stones,  representing  two  water-lilies  tied  together,  from  which  a 
rattle  (sistrum)  depends;  scarabaei;  six  gold  lions;  gold  shells  and 
knots  belonging  to  chains.  —  F.  Jewels  of  King  Hon  and  of  the 
Princess  Nee-hetepti-khrot.  Silver  diadem  inlaid  with  stones, 
with  the  Uraeus-serpent  in  front;  gold  dagger-blade;  necklaces  and 
bracelets ;  two  gold  falcons'  heads;  clasps  of  a  necklace;  parts  of  a 
fan,  in  semi-precious  stones. 

Case  III.  Amulets  and  jewelry  found  with  a  mummy  of  the 
26th  Dyn.  at  Haw.nra. 

Table  Case  IV.  A.  Chains  of  the  earliest  period.  —  B.  Gold 
ornaments  from  the  time  of  the  earliest  kings  and  the  Ancient  Em- 
pire :  four  bracelets  from  the  tomb  of  King  Zer  (1st  Dyn.)  at  Abydos 
(p.  243);  gold  objects  (bull,  gazelle),  found  at  Nag'  ed-Deir  and 
already  showing  a  high  degree  of  perfection  in  their  workmanship. 
—  D.  Gold  pectoral,  belt,  and  sandals,  from  a  tomb  of  the  12th  Dyn. 
at  Er-Rubayeh  (Lower  Egyptl.  —  E.  *Head  of  a  falcon,  with  inlaid 
eyes,  from  Hierakonpolis  (p.  337).  —  F.  Metal-work  of  the  Middle 
Empire:  chains;  gold  fiilcon;  dagger  with  inscription  of  the  Hyksos 
period.  —  G-M.  **Torab  Furniture  and  Jewels  of  Queen  Ahhotep 
(p.  ci),  mother  of  King  Amosis  (conqueror  of  the  Hyksos),  which 
date  from  the  beginning  of  the  New  Empire  and  were  found  in 
1860  with  the  mummy  of  the  queen  at  Drah  Abu'l  Negga  (p.  283). 
O.  4030.  Silver  boat  with  crew;  4031.  Necklace,  with  three  large 
flies.  H.  4035.  Axe,  with  handle  of  cedar-wood  covered  with  gold- 
leaf  and  inscribed  with  the  cartouche  of  King  Amosis,  the  blade 
being  of  massive  gold  inlaid  with  paste;  4032,  4033.  Other  axes. 
/.  4036.  Gold  chain  with  clasps  in  the  form  of  heads  of  geese  and 
a  gold  scarabteus  inlaid  with  blue  paste  as  pendant;  4037.  Rich 
gold  necklace  formed  of  rows  of  knots,  flowers,  lions,  antelopes,  etc., 
with  two  falcon-heads  at  the  ends.  J.  4038.  Gold  pectoral  inlaid 
with  gems  (the  gods  Amon-Re  and  Re-Horus  in  a  boat  pour  holy 
water  over  King  Amosis;  on  each  side  are  falcons);  4039.  Double- 
hinged  bracelet,  with  delicately  engraved  figures  on  blue  enamel, 
representing  (twice)  King  Amosis  kneeling  with  the  earth-god  Keb 
behind  him,  and  two  falcon -headed  and  two  dog-headed  genii; 
4046.  Armlet  with  a  hovering  vulture  in  gold  and  gems.  4040. 
Diadem  with  the  cartouclie  of  King  Amosis  flanked  by  two  sphinxes; 
4041,  4044,  4045.  Three  bead-bracelets  of  the  same  king;  4042. 
Wooden  handle  of  a  fan  covered  with  gold-leaf,  showing  holes  round 
the  rim  for  the  insertion  of  ostrich-feathers;  4043.  Mirror  of  the 
queen.  K.  4049.  Gold  boat,  on  a  small  wooden  carriage  with  bronze 
wheels,   the   crew  in  silver;   4050.  Necklace;   parts  of  necklace 


Upper  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    91) 

No.  4037  (see  ji.  98).  L.  4055.  Dagger  and  sheath,  both  of  gold; 
tlie  liilt  is  adorned  with  gold  and  semi-precious  stones,  while  the 
pommel  is  formed  of  four  female  heads;  the  junction  of  blade  and 
hilt  is  artistically  covered  with  the  head  of  a  bull ;  the  centre  of  the 
blade  is  inlaid  with  fine  damascening  of  gold.  4056,  4057.  Two 
daggers  of  simpler  style;  4052-4054.  Gold  armlets  and  anklets, — 
M.  4060.  Earrings  inscribed  with  the  name  of  Ramses  XII.  — 
N.  4064,  4065.  Two  gold  bracelets  inlaid  with  cornelian  and  lapis 
lazuli,  from  the  mummy  of  Pinotem  I.  (^IstDyn.);  4062,  4063. 
Pectorals  in  the  form  of  a  temple,  from  the  mummy  of  Ramses  III. — 
O.  4070.  Part  of  a  gold  pectoral,  formed  of  necklaces  with  heads  of 
gods  (20th  Dyn,").  —  P.  Small  gold  ligures  of  gods;  amulets;  pen- 
dants. —  Q.  Earrings.  —  It.  Rings,  several  with  scarabai. 

Glass  Case  V.  4100-4104.  Vessels  of  silver  found  in  the  ruins 
of  Mendcs  and  probably  forming  a  part  of  the  temple  plate.  —  Glass 
Case  VJ.  Ornaments  from  the  mummy  of  the  royal  admiral  Zenhcbu 
(p.  166),  from  Sakkara:  Mask,  bands  with  inscriptions,  sandal.s, 
kneeling  figure  of  the  goddess  Nut  with  outstretched  wings,  the 
four  tutelary  deities  of  the  deceased,  gold  finger  and  toe  casings, 
small  figures  of  gods  and  amulets,  a  palm-tree,  and  the  boat  of  the 
god  Soker,  all  of  the  finest  workmanship.  —  Glass  Case  VII.  A-}>. 
Portions  of  mummy  vestments,  amulets,  figures  of  gods,  and  bead 
nets  of  the  Late  Egyptian  period.  /■,\f-  F.  Gold  chain  of  the  Roman 
period;  4133.  Gold  ornamentation  of  a  Persian  swoid-belt.  G-iY. 
Bracelets,  necklaces,  rings,  and  other  ornaments  of  the  Roman  and 
Byzantine  periods.  0-R.  Articles  belonging  to  the  treasure-trove 
of  Tukh  el-Karamu8  (see  below).  —  Glass  Case  VJJI.  i\lummy- 
ornaments  (gold  mask,  etc.).  —  Glass  Case  JX.  Ornaments  from 
the  mummy  of  the  royal  admiral  Haryothes,  and  articles  similar  to 
those  in  Case  VI. 

Glass  Case  X  is  devoted  to  the  **Treasure  of  Ttkkh  el-Kar&mAs, 
dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  Ptolemaic  period  (ca.  300  B.C.). 
**4172.  Large  armlet  in  the  form  of  a  snake,  with  inlaid  eyes,  and 
on  the  head  a  large  ruby;  armlet,  the  clasp  of  which  imitates  a  tied 
knot,  adorned  witli  gold  wire;  two  small  armlets,  at  the  ends  of 
each  of  which  are  winged  sphinxes  in  tlie  Hellenistic  style;  t^\o 
gold  armlets  or  anklets,  ending  in  the  heads  of  fabulous  animals 
resembling  deer.  Egyptian  figures  of  gods  and  a  neck-oruamcnt 
in  pure  Egyptian  style,  with  falcons'  heads.  (Silver  dishes  and 
bowls;  *Front  part  of  a  griffin,  with  gilded  beak  and  wings;  head- 
dress of  a  statue  of  a  goti  or  a  king,  of  beaten  silver  richly  gilded  ; 
*Head  of  a  king  in  bronze,  inlaid  with  gold,  etc. 

Glass  Case  XI.  *Gold  Ornaments  of  Queen  Teye  (18th  Dyn.) 
and  Queen  Tewosret  (19th  Dyn.),  found  by  Mt.  Davis  in  1907 
and  1908  at  I'.ib;'in  el-Muluk.  Diadem  in  the  form  of  a  vulture  and 
breast-chain  of  Queen  Teye;  crown  of  Queen  Tewosret,  consisting 
of  15  blossoms;  two  large  earrings  with  the  name  of  King  Siptah; 


100  Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  Egyptian  Museum: 

silver  armlets  with  a  representation  of  Queen  Tewosret  before 
Sethos  II. ;  gold  necklet  of  pierced  gold  beads. 

Olass  Case  XII.  *GoId  Treasure  of  the  19tli  Dynasty,  found  at 
Zakazik  (Bubastis).  Two  gold  vases  of  Queen  Tewosret,  -with  rings 
for  banging  them  up;  *Silver  vase  witb  a  gold  handle  in  the  form 
of  a  goat;  silver  bowl  with  beautiful  ornamentation;  lotus-shaped 
gold  bowl  with  the  name  of  Queen  Tewosret ;  two.  gold  bracelets 
with  the  name  of  Ramses  II. ;  necklaces,  earrings,  etc. 

The  Large  North  Hall  (Salon  Septentrional)  is  to  accommodate 
the  coffins  of  the  20-30th  Dynasties.  —  In  front  of  the  entrance 
to  Room  L  is  a  *Glass  Case  (A)  containing  small  articles  of  especially 
fine  workmanship.  Middle  part  of  the  case,  at  the  top:  Censer; 
vases  of  coloured  glass.  N.  side:  4221.  Hippopotamus  in  a  marsh; 
4222.  Recumbent  hippopotamus;  4223-4229.  Wooden  statuettes; 
*4227.  Hairpin  in  the  shape  of  a  papyrus  reed,  upon  which  a  man 
stands  (Middle  Empire).  W.  side:  Beautiful  alabaster  vase;  bronze 
figures  of  kings;  4238.  Man  holding  a  naos  with  a  figure  of  Osiris; 
*4240.  Vessel  in  the  form  of  a  drinking  horn,  adorned  with  a  cow's 
bead ;  4242.  Bronze  statuette  of  a  priest,  bearing  an  image  of  Osiris ; 
4244.  KingKheops.  S.  side:  4246.  Apis,  in  bronze;  4250.  Small 
head  of  a  king  in  blue  fayence;,  4251.  Statuette  of  Ptah.  E.  side: 
4253,  4254.  Two  ivory  draughtsmen  in  the  shape  of  lions'  heads; 
4256,  4257.  Bronze  statuettes  of  kings. 

Galleries  Q  &  R  will  contain  the  coffins  and  mummies  of  the 
Grteco-Roman  period,  plaster  masks  of  mummies,  mummies  with 
portraits  of  the  deceased  painted  on  wood  or  linen,  etc. 

Gallery  R  (temporary  arrangement).  Case  G.  Bronze  utensils 
found  at  Bedrashein.  —  In  the  Frames  by  the  Walls:  Winding- 
sheets  of  the  mummies  of  the  priests  of  Amon  (p.  305),  some  of 
very  fine  linen;  two  fans  of  papyrus  reeds;  stick  with  an  ivory 
knob.  —  Glass  Case  A  (by  the  pillar  near  the  entrance  to  Room  V). 
Fragment  of  a  painteil  floor  from  the  palace  of  Amenophis  III., 
uearMedinetHabu  (p.  330).  —  Glass  Case  B.  4371.  Ground-plan  of 
the  tomb  of  Ramses  IX.  (p.  286),  on  a  large  piece  of  limestone. 

Room  S  (temporary  arrangement)  contains  the  objects  of  foreign 
origin  found  in  Egypt. 

Room  T.  Figures  of  gods  and  sacred  animals.  —  Case  A.  Cats. 
—  CaseB.  Amon,  Toeris,  Mut,  Bastet;  4416.  The  goddess  Nekh- 
beyetin  the  form  of  a  vulture,  in  silver;  4429.  Nefertem.  —  Case  C. 
Small  figures  in  fayence  of  the  deities  Nefertem,  Toeris,  Amon, 
Mut,  Khons,  Min,  and  Khnum.  —  Case  D.  The  gods  of  Memphis, 
Ptah,  Sekhmet,  and  Apis;  the  lion-headed  Buto.  In  the  desk-case: 
Steles  of  Apis;  4495.  Relief  with  the  funeral  chariot  of  Apis.  — 
Case  E.  Figures  in  fayence:  ibis-headed  Thout;  Thout  in  the  form 
of  a  cynocephalus;  Sekhmet;  so-called  Patfekes  (guardian-deities  in 
the  form  of  sick  children  with  large  heads  and  crooked  legs).  — 
Case  F.  Imhotep,  Neith ;  Thout,  ibises,  and  cynocephali;    Khons; 


Upper  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    101 

4602.  Orion ;  4623.  Maat.  In  the  desk-case :  Fayence  figures  of  Thout 
in  the  form  of  an  ibis  and  a  cynocephalus;  amulets  in  the  form  of 
stalks  of  papyrus.  —  Case  O.  Fayence  figures:  Bes,  Anubis,  Show; 
4578.  Isis  with  the  infant  Horus,  carrying  the  sacred  bark  of  Osiris 
on  her  head.  —  Case  U.  Anubis,  Besj  4600,  4601.  Hapi,  the  god 
of  the  Nile;  god  with  a  snakes  head;  4607.  Unuris;  4610.  Cow- 
headed  Hathor;  Hathor  in  the  form  of  a  cow.  In  the  desk -case: 
Figures  and  heads  of  Bes  in  fayence;  sistra  and  handles  of  sistra 
(with  the  head  of  Hathor  in  fayence).  —  Case  I.  Sacred  lish  and 
ichneumons;  4656.  End  of  a  sceptre  with  an  ichneumon  praying; 
coffins  of  snakes.  —  In  the  doorway  to  the  outer  passage:  4750,  4751. 
Two  large  protective  tablets,  with  Horus  upon  the  crocodiles. 

In  the  middle  of  the  room :  Four  large  bronze  ligures  of  the  lion- 
headed  Buto;  falcon-headed  Horus.  —  In  the  Glass  Case:  Leaden 
headgear  for  ligures  of  gods.  —  4666-4668.  Osiris. 

Case  K.  Osiris;  portions  of  figures  of  Osiris.  —  Case  L.  Osiris; 
the  four  sons  of  Osiris.  —  Case  M.  Osiris ;  4680.  Osiris  coming  to 
life  again.  In  the  desk-case:  Amulets;  the  backbone  of  Osiris; 
crowns.  —  Case  N.  Figures  in  fayence  and  stone  of  Isis,  of  Isis 
suckling  Horus,  and  of  Nephthys;  group  of  Horus,  Isis,  and  Neph- 
thys.  —  Case  O.  Isis;  Isis  suckling  Horus;  4690.  Collar  with  the 
head  of  Isis.  In  the  desk-case:  Portions  of  figures  of  Isis;  sacred 
crocodiles.  —  Case  P.  Fayence  figures  of  Horus  and  his  sacred 
falcons;  Harpocrates;  4713.  Seth.  —  Case  Q.  Horus  with  the  head 
of  a  falcon;  falcons;  Harpocrates;  4726.  Horus  in  the  form  of  a 
crocodile  with  the  head  of  a  falcon.  In  the  desk-case:  Ivory  wands 
with  fantastic  representations  (amulets');  protective  tablets  (Horus 
upon  the  crocodiles ).  —  Case  R.  Small  bronze  buckets:  censers; 
ends  of  si-.eptres;  4740.  Sacred  boat  with  a  shrine  and  figures  of 
gods,  borne  on  a  pole  at  processioTis ;  thrones  of  gods. 


Manuscripts,  Papyri,  etc. 

Room  U.  Papyri  (copies  of  the  'Book  of  the  Dead'  and  the  'Book 
of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld',  see  p.  102,  Room  W);  drawings 
on  thin  pieces  of  limestone  (in  the  desk-case  on  the  right:  battle- 
scenes,  wrestlers,  foreigners)  and  models  for  sculptors.  Uncom- 
pleted statues.  —  Cases  A-F.    Models  for  sculptors. 

Room  V.  Writing  materials  and  ostraka.  As  papyrus  was  expen- 
sive, less  important  writings  were  committed  to  wooden  tablets 
(4865,  4866),  potsherds  ('ostraka':  4867,  4868),  or  thin  pieces  of 
limestone,  like  No.  4869  (Case  E),  from  the  tomb  of  Sennutem 
(p.  318),  which  contains  the  beginning  of  the  'Adventures  of  Si- 
nuhet',  an  Egyptian  romance.  —  Gla^s  Case  A.  Writing  and  paint- 
ing utensils;  palettes;  dishes  for  mixing  colours;  pen-case  of  reed 
formed  like  a  lily  at  the  top;  pigments.  —  Glass  Case  B.  Writing 
tablets  ami  ostraka.  —  Glass  Cases  D-H.    Ostraka.  —  (}lass  Case  C. 


102    Route  4.  CAIRO.  6.  Egyptian  Museum: 

Clay  moulds  for  amulets  aud  usbebti  figures;  limestone  moulds  for 
birds,  probably  for  purposes  of  magic.  —  By  the  walls:  Papyri. 
Above  Glass  Case  F:  4875.  Part  of  a  large  mythical-geographical 
treatise  on  the  Faiyiim,  Lake  Mceris,  and  its  crocodile  deity  Sobek. 

Room  W.  MSS.  on  papyrus  or  linen.  The  papyri  of  the  dead 
chiefly  consist  of  extracts  either  from  the  'Book  of  the  Dead',  a  col- 
lection of  texts  referring  to  the  life  after  death,  or  from  the  'Book 
of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'  (p.  284);  they  are  generally 
adorned  with  pictures.  The  finest  are:  In  the  middle  of  the  room 
(divisions  21  <fe  22  in  the  desk-case).  Fragments  of  the  Book  of  the 
Dead  ofTu'e;  on  the  other  side  (^divisions  34  &  35),  4888.  The 
Book  of  the  Dead  of  Queen  Kemare  (21st  Dyn.);  by  the  left  back- 
wall  of  the  room,  4884.  Funerary  papyrus  of  a  singer  of  Amon. 

Gallery  X  (temporary  arrangement).  Cases  C  ^-  E.  SaTidals, 
baskets,  and  boxes  made  of  papyrus  reeds. —  Case  O.  4912.  Wooden 
door  from  the  tomb  of  Sennutem  (p.  318),  with  beautiful  paintings, 
e.g.  Sennutem  and  his  sister  in  an  arbour  playing  draughts.  —  In 
tlie  middle  .  Case  M.  4920.  Side  of  a  sacred  slirine  dedicated  by 
Queen  Hatshepsut  (see  p.  103). —  Cases H <^- J.  Armchairs;  folding- 
chairs; stools.  —  Case  J.  4940.  Water-clock  of  alabaster.  —  Cases 
F  iS'  G.  Baskets  and  wicker  boxes.  —  4952.  Fine  bronze  lion  with 
the  name  of  King  Apries,  used  as  a  padlock  in  a  temple.  —  4953, 
4954.  Fragments  from  the  temple  of  Ramses  III.  at  Tell  el-Yehii- 
dtyeh  (p.  ITl),  with  fayence  ornaments.  —  Case  T).  Stamped  bricks. 
—  Cases  C-E.  IJshebti  iigures,  steles,  etc.  —  Tlie  S.  part  of  the 
gallery  contains  vessels  of  various  periods,  of  clay,  fayence,  bronze, 
and  stone.  —  Case  C.  Coloured  imitation  vases  of  wood,  which 
were  buried  with  the  dead  Instead  of  the  real  ones. 

Room  Y.  Architectural  fragments,  utensils,  etc.  —  Case  A.  Mo- 
dels of  pillars,  capitals,  chapels,  and  temple  gates.  5101.  Wooden 
model  of  a  pylon.  Rosettes  and  coloured  reliefs  of  fayence,  with 
representations  of  foreign  captives  (negroes,  Asiatics,  Libyans), 
mostly  from  the  palace  of  Ramses  III.  at  Tell  el-Yehiidiyeh  (p.  171) 
and  from  Medinet  Habu  (p.  322);  5116.  Figure  of  Amenophis  I.  in 
the  act  of  sacrificing,  in  green  fayence,  from  Karnak.  —  Case  B. 
Inlays  of  fayence  and  glass;  stone-mason's  square,  plumb,  and  in- 
strument for  measuring  the  battering  of  a  wall,  from  the  tomb  of 
Sennutem  (p.  318);  wooden  fastenings  with  the  name  of  Sethos  1., 
from  Abydos.  —  Between  B  and  G :  5155.  Picture  of  a  captive 
negro  from  the  pavement  of  the  palace  of  Amenophis  III.,  near 
Medinet  Habu  (p.  330 ).  —  Case  C.  Foundation  deposits  from  various 
temples,  including  fayence  tiles  inscribed  with  the  name  of  the 
royal  builder.  Especially  interesting  are  the  deposits  found  at  the 
temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  299),  including  imitations  of  tools,  axes, 
adzes,  chisels,  awls,  alabaster  vases,  tip-sleds,  and  so  on. —  CaseD. 
Bronze  mountings  from  doors  and  furniture;  tools;  foundation  de- 
posits (No.  5195   from  a  building  of  Apries).  —   Case  E.    Bronze 


Upper  Floor.  CAIRO.  4.  Route.    103 

door-inountings;  locks  in  the  form  of  lions;  inlays  of  glass  and 
fayence  from  coffins  of  the  Grsco-Roniau  period.  Razors.  —  Case  F. 
Wooden  boxes  and  stools ;  5225.  Wing  of  a  door  from  a  sacred  shrine, 
dedicated  at  Deir  el-Bahri  to  Ainon  by  Queen  Uatshepsut  (whose 
name  has  been  replaced  by  that  of  Thutiuosls  II.).  Parts  of  a  chain, 
of  fayence,  with  small  tablets  bearing  the  name  of  Psammetichos  1. 
Objects  in  glass  of  the  Grseco-Roman  period.  —  *Ca3e  G.  Articles 
of  the  toilet,  chiefly  dating  from  the  New  Empire:  Mirrors  and 
mirror-handles;  cosmetic-pots;  perfume-spoon.s  and  salve-boxes; 
5291.  Cosmetic-pot  in  the  form  of  a  kneeling  man  bearing  a  jar  on 
his  shoulder;  salve-box  in  the  form  of  a  woman  swimming,  holding 
a  goose  in  front  of  her.  —  Case  H.  Mirrors;  combs;  salve-boxes 
( No.  5320  of  wood,  in  the  form  of  a  recumbent  calf),  —  Case  I. 
Articles  of  the  toilet;  salve-boxes;  cosmetic-pots;  5335.  Mirror- 
handle  in  the  form  of  the  god  Bes;  5330.  Pincushion  in  the  shape 
of  a  tortoise.  In  the  central  desk-case:  Castanets;  in  the  desk- 
cases  at  the  side:  Fayence  rings.  —  Case  J.  Musical  instruments: 
lyres,  harps,  flutes,  bronze  drum  in  the  form  of  a  cask  with  skins 
stretched  over  its  ends  [18th  Dyn.)  ;  draught-boards  and  draughts- 
men; figures  of  women,  forming  the  harem  of  the  dead;  children's 
toys,  dolls,  and  balls.  In  the  desk-cases  :  Scarabffii;  in  the  central 
one:  Scaraba:ii  which  were  made  to  commemorate  important  events, 
like  medals  (No.  5401  commemorating  the  lion-hunt  of  Amen- 
ophis  III.).  —  Case  K.  Weapons:  sticks,  axes,  bronze  axe-heads, 
arrow-heads,  a  lance,  throw-sticks,  clubs,  and  heads  of  clubs.  In 
the  desk-case:  Scarabaei.  —  Between  Cases  K  and  L:  Sledge  lor 
transporting  the  coffin,  from  the  tomb  of  Ramses  V.  at  Thebes.  — 
Case  L.  Weapons.  In  the  desk-case:  Scaraban ;  cylindrical  stone 
seals  used  for  sealing  in  the  early  period.  —  Case  M.  Implements 
for  agriculture  and  for  weaving;  two  jars  with  stands.  In  the 
desk-case:  Scarabaei.  —  Case  N.  Chariots  and  stone  weights;  frag- 
ments of  yard-sticks;  5510.  Alabaster  vessel  bearing  the  name  of 
Thutniosis  III.,  and  inscribed  as  27  hin  (1  hin  =  */5  pint);  5512. 
Weight  in  the  form  of  a  calf's  head  with  the  name  of  Sethos  I.  and 
a  statement  of  the  weight  as  300  teben  (1  teben  =  31/5  oz.).  In 
the  desk-case:  Scarabsei  and  impressions  of  seals  in  clay. 

Room  Z.  Grreco-Roman  statuettes  and  articles  of  domestic  use. 
—  Case  A,  Mummy -labels  with  Greek  and  demotic  inscriptions. 
Tablets  coated  with  wax,  used  by  school-children.  —  CaseB.  Bronze 
tigures ;  5553.  Fine  bronze  vase.  —  Case  C.  Terracotta  figures  from 
Alexandria,  resembling  the  Tanagra  figurines.  —  Case  D.  Greek 
vases  of  various  periods;  portions  of  boxes  with  representations  of 
figures  in  ivory  or  inlaid  with  ivory.  —  Case  E.  Grfeco-Egyptian 
terracottas.  —  C'a.sc  /•'.  Lamps.  —  Ca.se  H.  Glass  vessels.  —  Case  1. 
Grasco- Egyptian  terracottas.  —  Case  J.  Vessels  in  fayence;  two 
dogs,  one  in  fayence,  the  other  in  painted  terracotta,  votive  tablet 
of  fayence;  6B53,  5664.  Two  triangular  coffin-ends  with  painted 


104   Route  5.  DEIR  MART  MTNA.  Environs 

ami  gilded  reliefs  in  stucco ,  representing  sirens  (parts  of  coffin 
No.  4278).  —  Case  K.  Bronze  lamps  and  candelabra;  sheet  of  lead 
with  representations  in  relief,  from  a  coffin.  —  Case  L.  Mummy- 
labels  and  writing-tablets;  5677.  Parchment  document  relating  to 
a  sale  of  land  by  a  king  of  the  Blemmyes  (p.  386). 

In  the  middle  of  the  room  :  Glass  Case  M.  Greek  panel-por- 
traits of  mummies.  —  Glass  Cases  N-P.    Coloured  mummy -masks. 

In  the  Doorway  between  Gallery  X  and  Room  A'.  Case  A. 
Vases  of  alabaster  and  hard  stone.  —  Case  B.  Terracotta  vessels, 
some  of  them  in  the  shape  of  animals  or  grotesque  human  figures. 

Room  A'  (temporary  arrangement).  Coptic  utensils,  articles  of 
clothing,  ornaments  (in  CaseE,  arrow-shaped  hairpins,  chains, 
armlets,  anklets),  children's  toys  (Case  D),  church  utensils  (crosses; 
keys  ;  ivory  comb  with  a  relief,  in  Case  F),  wood-carvings  (Case  G), 
pottery  (Case  L),  bronze  candelabra  and  lamps  (Case  M),  censers 
nd  bottles  (Case  N),  bron/.c  bowls  and  buckets  (Case  0). 


5.  Environs  of  Cairo. 

1.  The  Island  of  Koda  and  Old  Cairo. 

Electric  Tramways  CNns.  1  and  15),  see  pp.  38,  39.  —  With  a  visit  to  Old 
Cairo  may  be  combined  tbat  to  tbe  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes.  returninS 
via  tbe  Bdb  el-Kardfeh  (see  p.  115)  and  tbe  Place  Saladin  (p.  68).  Those 
who  wish  to  visit  only  tbe  Kasr  esh-Sham'a  (p.  106)  m;iy  take  the  Helwan 
Kaihvay  as  far  as  the  station  of  St.  Georges  (p.  167). 

Through  the  quarter  of  Ismailiyeh  to  the  Kasr  el -' Aini {PI.  A,T)j 
see  pp.  52,  53.  —  Thence  the  ShdrV  Fumm  el-KhaUg  goes  on  to  the 
M7ddn  Fwnm  el-Khalig,  where  the  city  canal  El-Khnllg  (now  filled 
in)  formerly  diverged  from  the  Bahr  el-KliaUg,  or  small  arm  of  the 
Nile  separating  the  island  of  Roda  from  the  E.  bank. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Shari'  Sadd  el-Barrani,  which  begins  at  the  Midan 
Famm  el-Khalig,  are  situated  tbe  Christian  Cemeteries^  surrounded  by 
lofty  walls  and  presenting  no  attractions.  The  first  is  tbe  English  and 
Protest^ant  Cemetery.  —  At  the  junction  of  the  Shari'  Sadd  el-Barrani  and 
the  Shari'  ed-Deyura  stands  a  SebU  with  two  domes,  about  100  yds.  to  tbe 
E.  of  which  lies  the  Deir  Mari  Hina,  or  convent  of  St.  Menas  (p.  28), 
a  brick-walled  enclosure  containing  an  ancient  church. 

Beyond  the  Midan  Fumm  el-Khalig  rises  the  Head  of  the  Old 
Aqueduct  (p.  116),  constructed  of  solid  masonry  in  a  hexagonal 
form,  with  three  stories.  —  The  road  to  Old  Cairo,  here  called  Shari' 
MasT  el-Kadimeh,  skirts  the  Nile  and  goes  on  to  El-Ma'adi  (p.  167) 
and  Helwan  (p.  167).  A  road,  diverging  to  the  right  via  the  bridge 
El-Malek  es-Sdleh ,  traverses  the  island  of  Roda  and  crosses  the 
Nile  to  Gizeh  by  the  'Abbas  II.  Bridge  (p.  123).  —  To  the  left 
diverges  the  Shari'  Gami'  'Amr,  leading  across  the  Helwan  railway 
to  the  Deir  Abu  Sefein  and  the  Mosque  of  Amr  (p.  109). 


of  Cairr..  ISLAND  OF  RODA.  5.  Route.    105 

The  Coptic  convent  of  Deir  Abu  Sefein  is  named  alter  the  largest, 
tliough  not  the  oldest,  church  within  its  precincts.  The  convent  has  a 
diameter  of  050  ft.  and  includes  three  (|iarily  restored)  churches  (El-'Adra 
Anha  ShenOcla,  and  Abu  Se/ein)  and  a  nunnery  (Deir  el-Iiandt).  The  entrance 
is  by  the  small  gate  at  the  S.W.  angle,  near  the  railway-line.  —  Among  the 
mounds  of  debris  to  tlie  K.  and  S.  of  (Ud  Cairo  are  several  smaller  Coptic 
convents  iDeir  DablOn,  Deir  Todrus,  Abu  Kir  ica  Yuhanna.,  etc.),  which, 
however,  are  of  interest  to  specialists  only.  All  have  both  male  and  female 
inmates.    The  Deir  Bablun  preserves  the  name  of  ancient  Babylon  (p.  44). 

The  Shari'  Masr  cl-Kadimeh  continues  to  follow  the  direction 
of  the  arm  of  the  Nile.  Opposite  the  Haret  ed-Dabweh  (PL  at 
p.  106)  is  the  ferry  crossing  to  the  Island  of  Boda  (Geziret  Roda). 
We  descend  the  slope,  enter  the  ferry-boat  (1  pias.  for  one  person, 
there  and  back ;  payment  made  on  returning),  and  ascend  the  oppo- 
site path.  A  guide  is  usually  easily  found  to  conduct  travellers 
through  the  intricate  lanes  to  the  garden  at  the  S.  extremity  of  tbe 
island,  belonging  to  the  heirs  of  Hasan  Pasha. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  garden  is  a  Nilomkter  (Mikyus),  con- 
structed in  716  A.D.  by  order  of  the  Omaiyade  caliph  Suleiman. 
It  consists  of  a  square  well,  16  ft.  in  diameter,  having  in  the  centre 
an  octagonal  column,  on  ■which  are  inscribed  the  ancient  Arabian 
measures.  The  dira',  or  old  Arabian  ell,  is  54  centimetres,  or  about 
211/4  inches  long,  and  is  divided  into  24  kirat.  The  Cuflc  inscrip- 
tions on  the  central  column  and  on  marble  slabs  built  into  the 
walls  refer  to  restorations  of  the  nilometer  in  the  9th  cent.,  under 
the  Abbaside  caliphs  Ma'mun  and  Mutawakkil.  Numerous  later 
restorations  have  taken  place ,  the  last  in  1893.  The  office  of 
measuring  the  water  is  entrusted  to  a  sheikh. 

The  zero  point  of  the  nilometer  (according  to  llahmud-Bey)  is  28  ft. 
above  the  average  level  of  the  Mediterranean,  so  that  the  top  of  the 
column  is  nearly  5'J  ft.  above  sea-level.  The  water  of  the  Nile,  when  at 
its  lowest,  covers  7  ells  of  the  nilometer,  and  when  it  reaches  a  height 
of  15  ells  and  16  kirat,  the  sheikh  of  the  Nile  measurement  proclaims  the 
IVefa  (comp.  p.  xcviil,  i.e.  the  height  of  the  water  necessary  for  irrigating 
every  part  (jf  the  Nile  valley.  The  announcement  of  the  wcfa  was  formerly 
the  signal  for  cutting  the  embankments  of  the  irrigation-canals,  and  noisy 
popular  merry-makings  still  take  place  (about  the  middle  of  August)  at 
the  Midan  Fumm  el-Khalig  (p.  104).  The  rate  of  taxation  was  determined 
in  ancient  times  in  accordance  witli  the  height  of  the  inundation  (comp. 
p.  357),  and  even  to  this  day  there  is  a  certain  connection  between  these 
two  facts  (comp.  p.  Ixxii). 

Adjoining  the  nilometer  is  a  large  Kiosque  in  the  Turkish  style 
(no  admission).  —  To  tlie  N.  of  a  smaller  round  kiosque  on  the  E. 
quay-wall  is  a  iiiodern  nilometer,  to  which  a  flight  of  steps  de- 
scends. —  The  S.  end  of  the  island  commands  a  fine  view  of  the 
Nile,  with  Gizeh  to  the  right,  the  pyramids  in  the  background,  and 
Old  Cairo  on  the  left,  with  its  imposing  quay. 

in  a  garden  near  the  N.  end  of  the  island  (ca.  6  min.  tu  the  S.  of  the 
bridge  El-Malek  es-8aleh,  p.  104)  stands  the  wonder-working  tree  of  the 
saint  J/onrfflro,  a  huge  nebk-tree,  hung  with  innumerable  little  flags  and 
rags.  According'  to  a  popular  su|ierstition  the  patient  must  thus  offer  to 
thr-  s.nint  the  cloth  which  enveloped  the  affected  limb,  pluck  olf  two  leaves, 
and  tie  them  on  the  affected  part  with  another  c!oth. 


106   Route 


OLD  CAIRO. 


Environs 


To  the  left  of  the  Shari'  Masr  el-Kadimeh  lie  the  bazaars  of 
the  small  town  of  Old  Cairo  (Masr  el-Kadimeh;  conip.  p.  44)  and 
the  Church  Missicnarii  Society  Hospital  (p.  40).  From  the  terminus 
of  tramway  No.  1  we  follow  the  road  along  the  river  as  far  as  Sahel 
Attar  en-^ebi,  a  harbour  for  goods,  chiefly,  like  Rod  el-Farag 
(p.  78).  for  grain  from  Upper  Egypt.  The  quay  lias  a  frontage  of 
about  875  >ds.  and  a  flight  of  about  40  steps  leading  down  to  the 
river.    A  space  of  about  28,000  sq.yds.  is  occupied  by  the  shuna 


=     1 :  7.150 
Old  Cairo. 


or  warehouses,  separated  from  one  another  by  broad  streets  lined 
with  stalls  for  the  use  of  the  harbour  merchants.  The  warehouses 
and  stalls  are  owned  by  the  government.  The  quay  is  to  be  pro- 
longed to  Deir  et-Tin,  the  city  boundary,  and  Sahel  Attar  en-Nebi 
will  then  become  the  chief  harbour  of  Cairo.  We  turn  to  the  left 
from  the  quay  into  the  Shari'  es-Seghir  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  pass  the  police- 
station,  turn  to  the  left  again,  and  reach  the  rail,  station  alSt.  Georges 
(PL  B,  2;  p.  167).  Beyond  the  railway  lies  the  quarter  of  Kasr  esh- 
Sham'a  (PI.  C,  1,  2),   almost  exclusively   inhabited  by  Copts.    It 


of  Cairo.  OLD  CAIRO.  5.  Route.    107 

is  built  witliin  the  still  partly  preserved  girdle-wall  of  the  ancient 
Roman  citadel  of  Babylon  (p.  44).  —  To  tlie  right  of  the  railway,  at 
the  S  E.  angle  of  the  citadel,  stands  the  Coptic  church  El-Mo'allaka 
(PI.  C,  2;  'resting  upon  columns'),  the  oldest  in  Babylon  and  re- 
cently restored.  Beyond  a  vestibule  we  enter  a  garden  and  a  court, 
whence  a  broad  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  the  church.  At  the  top 
are  an  anteroom  and  an  open  court.  We  enter  the  double-aisled  and 
handsomely  fitted  up  church  through  a  colonnade.  —  Beyond  the 
angle,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  citadel,  is  a  massive  Roman  Gateway 
with  two  projecting  towers,  in  which  fragments  of  early-Egyptian 
masonry  have  been  used  (key  from  the  porter  of  the  Mo'allaka 
church).  —  Just  beyond  the  station  the  road  leads  past  the  Greek 
Convent  of  St.  George  (Convent  grec;  Pl.O,  l,^),  the  circular  domed 
church  of  which  rests  on  the  foundations  of  a  Roman  tower  (a  on 
the  Plan),  to  the  Coptic  church  of  — 

*Abu  Sergeh  {St.  Sergius;  PI.  C,  1, 2),  enclosed  by  a  dense  mass 
of  houses.  This  church  is  believed  to  have  been  built  before  the 
Mohammedan  conquest,  but  this  can  be  true  of  the  crypt  only.  Ac- 
cording to  tradition  the  "Virgin  and  Child  after  their  flight  to  Egypt 
spent  a  month  in  this  crypt.    The  church  is  now  being  restored. 

This  church,  which  has  suffered  at  various  times  from  alterations 
and  additions,  now  partly  removed,  may  be  regarded  as  the  original 
model  of  the  older  Egyptian-Byzantine  churches  in  which  the  Coptic 
Christians  now  worship  i".  The  basilica  consists  of  a  nave  and  aisles, 

+  Coptic  'Worship.  On  entering  the  church  the  members  of  the  con- 
gregation first  pay  their  homage  to  a  number  of  pictures  of  saints  hanging 
on  the  walls  (the  veneration  of  saints  and  of  the  Virgin  being  a  prominent 
feature  of  the  Coptic  system)  and  then  kneel  before  the  altar  and  kiss  the 
hand  of  the  priest.  They  then  take  their  stand  (for  there  are  no  seats)  in  the 
part  of  the  church  allotted  to  them,  the  feeble  leaning  on  crutches  which 
they  bring  for  the  purpose,  as  the  service  often  lasts  for  more  than  three 
hours.  The  service  begins  with  the  reading  or  chanting  of  prayers  and 
passages  from  the  Gospels,  partly  in  the  Coptic  language  and  partly  in 
Arabic,  in  which  the  priest  is  assisted  by  a  schoolmaster  and  a  choir  of 
boys.  During  this  performance  the  worshippers,  with  very  few  exceptions, 
engage  freely  in  conversation.  After  a  time  the  burning  of  incense  begins. 
The  priest,  swinging  his  censer,  leaves  the  beikal  and  joins  the  con- 
gregation, each  member  of  which  he  blesses,  placing  his  hand  on  their 
heads.  —  The  Celebration  of  the  Euchavist  is  very  frequent  in  the  Coptic 
churches,  immediately  following  the  ordinary  service.  —  On  January  19th, 
the  anniversary  of  the  Baptism  of  Christ  ('id  el-ghiids),  men  and  boys 
plunge  into  the  large  font  or  bath  which  is  to  be  found  in  most  Coptic 
churches,  the  water  having  been  first  blessed  by  the  priest.  Or  they  per- 
form the  same  ceremony  in  the  Nile,  into  which  they  first  pour  some  con- 
secrated water.  On  the"  eve  of  this  festival,  as  well  as  at  Epiphany,  on 
Maundy  Thursday,  and  on  the  festival  of  the  Apostles,  the  priest  washe.s 
the  feet  of  the  whole  of  his  congregation.  —  On  Palm  Sunday  wreaths  of 
palm  are  blessed  by  the  priest,  which  are  then  worn  by  the  Copts  under 
their  tarbilshes  during  the  whole  of  the  following  year  as  amulets  against 
every  misfortune  that  can  befall  body  or  soul.  —  An  external  form  to 
which  the  Copts  attach  great  weight  is  the  observance  of  fasts,  and  a  Copt 
who  is  negligent  in  this  respect  will  rarely  be  met  with.  On  these  oc- 
casions all  kinds  of  animal  food,  not  excepting  fat,  eggs,  butter,  and 
cheese,  are  prohibited.  —  Comp.  Butler's  'Coptic  Churches  of  Egypt'  (1884). 

Ba«obkeb"3  Egypt.     7th  Edit.  8 


108   Route  5. 


OLD  CAIRO. 


Environs 


the  latter  provided  with  galleries.  The  nave  and  choir,  which  is 
raised,  have  open  ceilings.  The  lofty  side-walls  of  the  nave  consist 
of  two  rows  of  columns,  one  above  the  other,  the  columns  of  the 
lower  row  being  separated  by  keel-arches,  while  the  upper  series, 
supporting  the  gallery,  consists  of  alternate  groups  of  two  marble 
columns  and  one  pillar  of  masonry.  The  columns  of  marble  origi- 
nally belonged  to  ancient  edifices,  and  have  been  placed  here  without 


a.  Entrance  from  the  street,  b,  c.  Vestibule,  d.  Basin  for  ablutions, 
e.  Passage,  f.  Baptistery,  g.  Men's  section,  h.  Seat  for  the  chief  priest. 
i.  Pulpit,  k.  Choir.  1.  Sanctuary  (Heikal),  with  the  altar,  m,  n.  Siiie- 
chapels.  o.  Well.  p.  Keadinj;-desk.  q,  r.  Entrances  to  the  crypt,  s.  Old 
vestibule  or  narthex,  with  the  ancient  water-basin.  —  The  original  walls 
are  shown  in  black,  the  later  ones  are  shaded. 


the  least  regard  to  their  suitability  in  point  of  diameter  or  archi- 
tectural features.  Two  of  the  three  original  entrances  on  the  W.  side 
are  now  built  up;  they  all  led  into  the  narthex,  or  old  vestibule, 
which  had  apses  at  both  ends  (S.  apse  now  wanting).  This  narthex 
contains  an  ancient  water-basin  (PI.  s),  in  which  the  priest  still 
washes  the  feet  of  the  men  at  the  Feast  of  Epiphany. 

The  nave,  which  has  a  pointed  wooden  ceiling,  is  diArided  by 
wooden  screens  into  three  sections.  The  first  (PI.  c,  c)  is  the  vesti- 
bule and  contains  the  basin  (PI.  d)  for  ablutions ;  the  second  (PI.  e) 
is  used  as  a  passage  and  is  adjoined  ontheN.  by  the  baptistery  (PI.  f); 
and  the  third  (PI.  g)  is  the  section  for  the  men,  though  it  is  com- 
monly used  by  women  also,  who  retire  to  the  galleries  only  when 


of  Cairo.  .      OLD  CAIRO.  5.  Route.    109 

the  church  is  crowded.  Beyond  the  nave,  and  raised  by  a  few  steps, 
is  the  choir  (PI.  k)  where  the  priests  officiate,  and  which  is  adjoined 
by  the  Heikal,  or  sanctuary  (PI.  1),  containing  the  altar,  and  by  two 
side-chapels,  that  on  the  left  (PI.  m)  snrmounted  by  an  Arabian 
dome.  In  the  apse  of  the  sanctuary  rise  several  steps,  in  amphi- 
theatrical  fashion,  towards  the  place  which  in  European  churches 
is  occupied  by  the  episcopal  throne,  aTid  in  the  present  case  by  a 
picture  of  Christ.  The  sanctuary  and  the  side-chapels  are  shut  off 
by  wooden  screens,  panelled  and  richly  adorned  with  carvings  in 
wood  and  ivory.  The  finest  and  oldest  of  these  are  on  the  screen 
to  the  left  of  the  sanctuary;  besides  ornamental  designs  they  have 
representations  of  the  Nativity,  St.  Demetrius,  St.  George  (Miiri 
Oirgis),  St.  Theodore  (?),  and  the  Eucharist.  Above  the  door  to  the 
right  side-chapel  (PI.  n),  engraved  in  wood,  is  the  Coptic  inscription, 
'Greetings  to  the  Temple  of  God,  the  Father  1'  Below  it  is  an  Arabic 
inscription  with  the  date  1195.  The  church  contains  also  some 
interesting  Byzantine  carving  and  mosaics  in  ivory,  now  blackened 
and  discoloured  with  age.  A  number  of  old  pictures  of  saints,  some 
of  them  on  a  gold  ground  and  with  well-preserved  colours,  possess 
no  artistic  value.  The  guide  expects  a  fee  of  1  pias.  from  each 
visitor,  who  places  also  1  pias.  in  the  collection-plate. 

Steps  (PI.  q,  r )  descend  to  the  Crypt  (often  flooded),  a  small 
vaulted  chapel  with  marble  columns  under  the  choir,  consisting  of 
nave  and  aisles.  At  the  end  of  the  nave  is  an  altar  in  the  form  of 
an  early-Christian  tomb-niche,  which  tradition  indicates  as  the  spot 
where  the  Virgin  and  Child  reposed;  in  the  centre  of  the  aisles  are 
apses.  The  right  aisle  contains  the  font,  into  which,  according  to 
the  Coptic  ritual,  the  child  to  be  baptized  is  dipped  three  times. 

The  citadel  contains  several  other  basilicas,  used  by  Coptic  and 
Jewish  congregations,  but  interesting  only  to  those  who  are  making 
a  special  study  of  this  kind  of  architecture.  Among  them  we  may 
mention  the  churches  of  St.  Barbara  (^Sitteh  Burbdra ;  PI.  C,  2: 
restored),  containing  good  carvings  and  paintings,  Mdri  Girgis 
(St.  George),  and  El-'Adra  (PI.  C,  1).  The  Jews  say  that  Elijali 
once  appeared  in  the  modern  Synagogue  (Esh-Shamydn  or  Ken^-iet 
Elidhu),  and  show  a  place  in  it  where  Moses  is  said  to  have  prayed. 

About  20  yds.  to  the  right  of  Abu  Sergeh  we  enter  a  pictur- 
esque lane  on  tlie  left,  which  leads  to  a  low-lying  iron-bound  door 
^Entree  on  the  Plan,  p.  106).  Thence  a  road  leads  to  the  N.,  past 
the  rubbish  heaps  of  the  ancient  Fustdt  (p.  44),  and  after  ca.  1/2  ^^^ 
reaches  the  white  and  red  striped  W.  facade  of  the  externally  in- 
significant mosque  of  Amr(comp.  PI.  C,  1),  which  has  three  entrances. 
Visitors  usually  enter  by  the  S.  (r.)  entrance,  below  the  minaret. 

A 

The  G&mi'  'Amr  ibn  el-' As,  or  Mosque  of  Amr,  owes  its  name 
to  the  general  of  the  Caliph  Omar,  though  not  a  trace  now  remains 
of  the  original  mosque,  which  was  only  i)0  ells  long  and  30  ells 

8* 


110    Route  5.  OLD  CAIRO.        .  Environs 

broad.  Indeed  there  is  scarcely  a  building  in  Egypt  that  has  so 
frequently  been  destroyed  by  water,  fire,  and  eartliquake,  and  that 
has  been  so  regularly  rebuilt. 

The  interior  exhibits  the  usual  plan  of  a  court  surrounded  by 
colonnades,  and  in  spite  of  its  imperfect  state  (the  N.  and  S. 
colonnades  are  represented  by  the  column-bases  only)  its  mere  size 
produces  a  certain  effect.  The  columns,  all  of  marble  of  various 
kinds,  were  once  366  in  number.  Their  heterogeneous  nature  is 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  they  were  brought  from  Roman  and 
Byzantine  buildings  in  Cairo. 

The  facades  of  the  Court  (Sahn)  have  no  pretensions  to  an- 
tiquity ;  the  arches  are  of  an  unusually  clumsy  shape.  In  the  centre 
of  the  court,  which  is  now  planted  with  trees,  is  a  hanefiyeh  ;  the 
deep  well  is  popularly  believed  to  have  a  connection  witli  a  well 
in  Mecca.  The  South-F.astern  Ltwdn  is  the  sanctuary.  In  front 
of  the  pulpit,  within  an  iron  railing,  is  a  column  of  grey  marble, 
on  which,  by  a  freak  of  nature,  the  names  of  Allah,  Mohammed, 
and  Sultan  Suleiman  in  Arabic  characters,  and  the  outline  of  the 
prophet's  'kurbatsh'  appear  in  veins  of  a  lighter  colour.  This 
column  is  believed  by  the  Moslems  to  have  been  transported  mi- 
raculously from  Mecca  to  Cairo  by  the  Caliph  Omar.  In  the  N.E. 
corner  is  the  tomb  of  Sheikh  Abdallah,  son  of  Amr.  In  the  N.W. 
corner  is  a  recess  with  two  low  columns ;  the  blood-stains  on  the 
top  are  caused  by  patients  in  search  of  health,  who  here  rub  their 
tongues  until  they  bleed.  In  the  W.  colonnade,  which  consists  of 
a  single  row  of  columns  only,  is  a  Pair  of  Columns^  placed  very  close 
together,  and  it  is  said  that  none  but  honest  men  could  squeeze 
themselves  between  them. 

This  mosque  is  almost  disused.  On  the  last  Friday  in  the  month  of 
fasting,  however,  a  solemn  service  is  annually  held  here,  in  which  the 
Khedive  and  his  grandees  take  part.  On  the  remaining  Fridays  throughout 
the  year  a  handful  of  poor  Moslems,  mostly  of  the  working  classes,  assemble 
for  worship  in  the  venerable  but  poorly  preserved  sanctuary.  —  In  1808 
this  mosque  witnessed  a  very  remarkable  scene.  The  whole  of  the  Mo- 
hammedan priesthood,  the  Christian  clergy  of  every  sect,  and  the  Jewish 
rabbis,  with  one  accord,  assembled  in  the  mosque  of  Amr  to  pray  for  the 
rise  of  the  Nile,  which  had  delayed  beyond  the  usual  period. 

Near  the  Mosque  of  Amr  are  several  Kulla  Manufactories,  in 
which  the  process  of  making  the  porous  water-jars  (Arabic  Kulla, 
pi.  Kulal)  used  throughout  Egypt  may  be  seen.  The  chief  seat  of 
manufacture  is,  however,  Keneh  (p.  222).  The  material  is  a  light- 
grey  clay;  the  remarkably  delicate  porosity  of  the  vessels  is  pro- 
duced by  mixing  the  clay  with  ashes.  The  rapid  evaporation  caused 
by  the  porosity  of  the  kulla  cools  the  liquid  within  to  a  tempera- 
ture of  12-14°  Fahr.  lower  than  that  of  the  surrounding  air.  —  To 
the  convent  of  Deir  Abu  Sefein,  see  pp.  104,  105. 

A  visit  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes  (p.  115)  may  be  con- 
veniently made  from  this  point.  Continuing  to  follow  the  road 
across  the  rubbish-hills  of  Fustat,    we  observe  on  our  right  a  Mos- 


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of  Cairo.  TOMBS  OF  THE  CALIPHS.      5.  Route.    Ill 

lem  burial-ground  and  at  a  sliort  distance  In  front  of  us  the  old 
aqueduct  (p.  116).  A  little  to  the  right,  on  an  eminence,  rises  an 
old  ruined  mosque  (Gami  Ahu  Su'ild),  beyond  it  is  the  Citadel 
with  the  mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali ,  and  farther  distant  are  the 
Mokattam  Hills  with  the  mosque  of  Giyushi  (^p.  116).  This  view  is 
very  striking  towards  sunset.  The  road,  which  becomes  bad  farther 
on,  leads  round  the  ruined  mosque  and  ascends  heaps  of  debris. 
On  the  top  of  the  hill  it  divides.  The  branch  to  the  left  leads  back 
to  the  town.  The  road,  first  in  a  straight  direction,  afterwards  in- 
clining to  the  right,  leads  to  the  mosque  of  Imam  Shafl'i  (p.  115). 


2.  The  Tombs  of  tlie  Caliphs  and  the  Mamelukes. 

Tickets  of  Admitsion,  see  p.  43;  Carriages,  see  p.  39;  Donkeys,  comp.  ]).  39. 
The  genera)  effect  is  most  striking  towards  sunset.  The  enjoyment  of  the 
scenery  is,  however,  greatly  impaired  by  the  dustiness  of  the  roads. 

The  mediaeval  Arab  mausolea  of  Egyptian  rulers,  which,  under 
the  names  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  and  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes^  stretch 
along  the  entire  E.  side  of  the  city,  were  erected  mainly  by  the 
Circassian  Mameluke  sultans.  The  name  'Tombs  of  the  Caliphs', 
applied  to  the  northernmost  group,  is  historically  a  misnomer,  for 
the  tombs  have  no  connection  with  the  Abbaside  caliphs  then  re- 
sident in  Egypt  and  treated  as  mere  titled  puppets.  These  mosque- 
tombs  were  once  each  provided  with  a  numerous  staff  of  sheikhs 
and  attendants.  The  revenues  of  the  mosques  having  been  con- 
fiscated at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century,  the  tombs  gradually 
fell  to  ruin.  Now,  however,  the  Committee  mentioned  at  p.  43  has 
taken  them  into  its  keeping. 

The  usual  route  to  the  *Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  (Arab.  Turab 
el-Khnlafa  or  Turab  Kail  Bey)  leaves  the  city  via  the  Muski  (p.  53) 
and  its  prolongations.  It  then  traverses  the  mounds  of  potsherds 
known  as  the  Windmill  Hills  (p.  114)  and  reaches  the  still-used 
cemetery  (Karafet  el-Afifi).  By  the  roadside  lie  large  mausolea 
(Arab,  Hosh),  with  courts  and  rooms  occupied  during  certain  festi- 
vals by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased.  We  first  reach  the  tomb- 
mosque  of  Kait  Bey,  to  the  N.  of  which  is  that  of  Barkuk.  Hence 
we  return  to  the  city  by  one  of  the  routes  described  below. 

Those  who  wish  to  combine  a  visit  to  the  Citadel  (p.  68)  with 
that  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  should  select  the  route  from  the 
Bab  el-Attaba  (PI.  F,  5)  to  the  Kait  Bey  Mosque  (comp.  p.  114). 

It  is,  however,  more  convenient  to  begin  with  the  N,  group  of 
tombs.  In  this  case  we  quit  Cairo  by  the  Bab  en-Na^r  (PI.  E,  2; 
p.  77)  and  pass  the  Mohammedan  cemetery.  To  the  right  are  the 
Windmill  IliUs  (p.  114).  Beyond  the  unimportant  tomb  of -SAciM 
Galdl  we  have  one  of  the  finest  *Views  of  the  city  of  the  dead. 

The  N.E.  group  of  the  mausolea,  which  is  hardly  worth  visiting, 
consists  of  the  Tomb  of  an  Fmir  of  Sultan  El-GUuri  (p.  59),  a  cube 


112   Route  5.         TOMBS  OF  THE  CALIPHS. 


Environs 


surmounted  by  a  stilted  dome,  and  the  tomb-mosques  of  Sultan 
Inal,  with  a  handsome  minaret,  and  Emtr  KeMr,  son  of  Bars  Bey 
(p.  113).  —  Straight  on  is  the  — 

*Tomb  Mosque  and  Convent  of  Sultan  Barkfik,  reported  to  have 
been  planned  by  the  architect  Sherkis  el-Haranbuli.  The  N.  dome 
■was  completed  in  1400-5  by  Barkuk's  two  sons,  Farag  (p.  cxviii) 
and  'Abd  el-'Azh,    the  S.  dome  and  the  convent  (Khankah)  in 

1410  by  Farag.  The 
mosque  has  lately 
been  restored.  — 
The  ground-plan  is 
square  (each  side 
240  ft.)  and  resem- 
bles that  of  the 
medresehs.  The  li- 
wans,  however,  are 
not  covered  with 
barrel-vaulting  but 
are  protected  against 
sun  and  shower  by 
colonnades  with 
spherical  domes. 
The  present  en- 
trance (PL  1)  is  in 
an  out -building  at 
the  S.W.  angle.  It 
leads  to  a  domed 
vestibule,  whence  a 
corridor  (PI.  2)  runs 
to  the  fine  Sahn  el- 
Gami'  or  large  inner 
quadrangle,  in  the 
middle  of  which,  be- 
neath two  tamarisk- 
trees,  is  the  old 
hanefiyeh  (PI.  3),  or 
fountain  for  ablu- 
tions. To  the  right 
(E.)  is  the  exqui- 
sitely proportioned  main  liwan  or  sanctuary  (PI.  6),  with  three  aisles, 
simple  prayer-niches  (PI.  4),  and  a  beautiful  stone  *Minbar  or  pulpit 
(PI.  5)  presented  by  Kait  Bey,  To  the  left  (N.)  of  the  sanctuary  is 
the  mausoleum  (PI.  7),  with  the  cenotaphs  of  Barkiik  and  of  his 
sons  'Abd  el-'Aziz  and  Farag.  To  the  right  (S.)  are  the  tombs  of 
the  female  members  of  the  family  (PI.  8).  The  beautifully  pro- 
portioned dome  is  a  masterpiece  of  Arabian  architecture.  The 
column  at  the  head  of  Barkuk's  cenotaph  is  said  to  indicate  the 


of  Cairo.  TOMBS  OF  THE  CALIFHS.       5.  Eoule.    113 

stature  of  the  deceased.  The  W.  liwan  (PI.  9),  opposite  the  sanctu- 
ary, had  three  aisles  also,  hut  the  arcade  next  the  court  has  collapsed. 
The  two  side-liwaus  (PI.  10  &  11)  have  one  aisle  only.  Behind  that 
to  the  N.  are  cells  for  dervishes,  students,  and  pilgrims,  and  a  hall 
(PI.  12 ;  now  very  dilapidated),  which  forms  an  out-huilding  to  the 
mosque  and  connects  the  khankah  with  the  small  mausoleum  of  Bar- 
kuk's  father,  Sharaf  ed-Dln  Anas,  who  died  in  1382.  To  the  W.  of 
this  hall  was  the  old  chief  entrance  (PI.  14),  adjoined  by  a  sebil  with 
a  medreseh  or  school  (PI.  15).  Behind  the  S.  liwan  is  a  court  of 
ablution  (PI.  13),  with  a  water-basin  (meida).  —  One  of  the  two 
Minarett  was  restored  in  1900.    Both  had  originally  three  stories. 

To  the  W.  (right)  of  this  tomb-mosque,  within  a  walled  court, 
is  the  Tomb  of  Suleiman,  a  contemporary  of  the  sultan  of  that  name 
(first  half  of  the  16th  cent.).  This  contains  interesting  sculpture 
in  the  dome  and  inscriptions  in  blue  fayence,  now  partly  destroyed. 
To  the  E.  of  this  tomb  (and  to  the  S.  of  Barkuk's  mosque)  is  another 
handsome  dome-covered  tomb  ('MausoMe  de  Ganem  Bey').  On  the 
right  of  the  road  leading  from  the  mosque  of  Barkuk  to  the  S.W.  to 
the  tomb  of  KaVt  Bey  (see  below)  is  the  Ma'bed  er-Rifd'iyeh,  a  large 
depressed  dome  of  the  Turkish  period. 

Opposite,  to  the  E.  (left),  is  the  Tomb  Mosque  (Hosh)  of  Bars  Bey 
(p.  cxix),  completed  in  1432.  It  includes  a  mausoleum  and  the 
ruins  of  a  convent.  Within  the  enclosing  walls  are  the  tombs  of 
some  relatives  of  Bars  Bey.  The  liwan  contains  good  mosaics.  The 
dome  of  the  mausoleum  is  interesting.  The  remains  of  a  sebil  also 
are  extant.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  Tomb  of  the  Mother 
of  Bars  Bey.  a  small  dome  with  pentagonal  and  hexagonal  openings. 

In  the  same  street,  a  few  hundred  paces  farther  to  the  S.,  we 
observe  on  the  right  the  RaV  or  House  of  Kail  Bey,  260  ft.  long, 
completed  in  1473,  but  now  in  ruins.  The  fagade  is  plain  but  the 
gateway  is  very  tasteful.  A  little  farther  to  the  S.,  in  an  angle, 
is  a  Wafer  Trough  (PI.  15,  p.  114),  now  in  ruins,  with  its  once 
beautiful  rear  wall  protected  by  a  roof.  The  rab',  the  trough,  and 
the  mosque  (see  below)  all  belonged  to  the  burial-place  (Hosh)  of 
Kait  Bey,  which  covered  an  area  330  yds.  long.  Its  exact  limits 
cannot  now  be  determined,  and  a  number  of  modern  buildings  have 
been  erected  within  them. 

The  *Tomb  Mosque  of  K&it  Bey  [pp.  73,  cxix),  built  in  1463 
and  restored  in  1898,  is  the  finest  edifice  among  the  Tombs  of  the 
Caliphs.  It  is  distinguished  by  its  beautiful  dome,  its  slender 
minaret  (130  ft.  high),  its  harmonious  proportions,  and  its  hand- 
some ornamentation,  in  which  stalactites  are  profusely  used.  In 
the  interior  we  notice  the  beautiful  marble  mosaic,  the  tasteful  ceil- 
ings, the  pulpit,  and  the  lattice  windows  of  stucco  (partly  modern). 
Within  the  mausoleum  (PI.  8,  p.  114)  are  shown  a  finely  carved 
desk  and  two  stones,  wliich  are  said  to  have  been  brought  from 
Mecca  by  Kait  Bey  and  to  bear  impressions  of  the  feet  of  the  prophet 


114 


Route  5. 


TOMBS  OF  THE  CALIPHS. 


Environs 


To  the  S.E.  of  the  mosque  of  Kait  Bey  the  Shari'  el-Afifl  leads  to 
the  Tomb  Mosque  of  the  Khedive  Taufik  (p.  cxxiii). 

We  may  now  return  to  the  city  either  through  the  Bab  el-Attaba 
(p,  115)  or  via  the  Windmill  Hills  and  the  Muski.  To  the  right 
of  the  latter  route  is  a  point  ('Point  de  vue'  on  the  Plan)  command- 
ing a  beautiful  *Retrospect  of  the  tombs. 


lA  ?.a 


First  Floor. 
Tomb  Mosquk  of  Kii'i  Bei. 
—     1.     Principal    Entrance. 

2.  Vestibule    with    throne. 

3.  Sebil.  4.  Sahn  el-Gami'. 
5.  Sanctuary  with  prayer- 
recess  and  pulpit.  6.  Liwan. 
7.  Side-liwans.  8.  Domed 
room  with  cenotaph  of  Kait 
Bey.  9.  Hall  with  tombs  of 
Kait  Bey's  four  wives.  10. 
Library.  11.  Uncovered  court. 
12.  Hilweh  (chamber)  for  the  < 

Imam.     13   (first  floor),    Knttab   (elementary  school).     15.    Water- trough. 
16.    Staircase  to   the   minaret.     W*,  M^,  M^.   Minaret  in  the  three  stories. 


The  so-called  *Wiiidmill  Hills  |  afford  one  of  the  best  views  in 
the  environs  of  Cairo.  A  fine  effect,  especially  by  evening-light,  is 
produced  by  the  domes  and  the  peculiar  colouring  of  the  valley 
and  the  Mokattam.  To  the  W.  are  the  city,  the  plain  of  the  Nile, 
and  the  Pyramids ;  to  the  N.  lies  the  straggling  suburb  of  'Abbasi- 
yeh ;  to  the  N.E.,  in  the  distance,  is  the  new  suburb  of  Heliopolis 
and  at  our  feet  are  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs. 


of  Cairo.       TOMBS  OF  THE  MAMELUKES.     5.  Route.    115 

Tlie  return-route  leading  to  the  S.  from  the  Tombs  passes  the 
cemetery  of  Kardfet  BcLb  el-Wezir  to  the  gate  oi Bdh  el-Attdba  (Bdh 
el-Atabeg;  PL  F,  5),  which  marks  the  end  of  the  city  of  the  dead  on 
the  S.  side,  towards  the  citadel.  Just  to  the  E.  is  a  fountain  (sehil) 
hewn  in  the  rock  by  Emir  Shekhuh  in  1349.  As  soon  as  we  have 
passed  the  gate  we  find  ourselves  once  more  in  the  midst  of  the 
animated  life  of  the  city. 

Shoet  Walks  in  the  Desert.  Those  who  enjoy  the  silence  and  pure 
air  of  the  desert  may  proceed  from  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  (or  from 
'Abbasiyeh,  p.  7S)  into  one  of  the  small  lateral  valleys  to  the  S.  of  the 
Gebel  el-Ahmar  (see  below).  A  small  round  hill  of  red  sandstone  in  this 
vicinity,  known  by  the  Germans  as  'Rennebaum's  Volcano",  commands  a 
superb  panorama  of  the  Arabian  desert,  the  suburb  of  'Abbasiyeh,  Helio- 
polis  Oasis,  and  the  extremity  of  the  Delta.  —  We  may  return  to  the  S.  via 
the  Oebel  OiyHthi  (p.  116)  or  to  the  N.  via  the  Gebel  el-Ahmar,  or  Ked 
Mountain,  rising  to  the  E.  of  'Abbasiyeh.  The  mountain  consists  of  a 
very  hard  conglomerate  of  sand,  pebbles,  and  fragments  of  fossil  wood, 
coloured  red  or  yellowish  brown  by  oxide  of  iron.  Centuries  ago  the 
quarries  here  yielded  material  for  statues  as  they  now  do  for  excellent 
and  durable  mill-stones  and  road-material. 


The  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes,  to  the  S.  of  the  Citadel,  includ- 
ing monuments  of  various  periods,  are  most  conveniently  visited  via 
the  Bab  el-Kardfeh  (PI.  E,  7;  p.  68).  The  tombs,  both  old  and 
new,  approach  close  to  the  city  and  extend  as  far  as  to  the  slopes 
of  the  Mokattam.  The  older  tombs  are  in  much  poorer  preservation 
than  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  owing  to  their  conversion  into 
modern  burial-places.  Some  are  now  represented  only  by  their 
minarets.  A  few  are  of  architectural  and  artistic  interest.  The 
extant  inscriptions  upon  them  are  almost  exclusively  verses  of  the 
Koran.  To  the  left,  halfway  up  the  Mokattam,  is  the  Convent  of  the 
Bektash.i(f.70). 

Outside  the  Bab  el-Karafeh  we  turn  to  the  right ,  short  of  the 
railway,  and  follow  the  Shari' el- Kadiriyeh  and  the  Shari' Imam 
Shafi'i  towards  the  conspicuous  blue-grey  dome  of  the  Tomb  Mosque 
of  Im&m  Sh&fi'i,  the  founder  of  one  of  the  four  orthodox  schools  of 
El-Islam  (p.  Ixxxvi).  The  mausoleum,  erected  in  1211  by  Malika 
Shemseh,  the  mother  of  the  Aiyubide  sultan  Kamil,  is  a  great  place 
of  pilgrimage  and  consequently  inaccessible  to  unbelievers. 

Near  the  mosque  of  Imam  Shafi'i,  in  a  lane  passing  beneatli 
vine-trellises,  is  the  Hdsh  el-B&sba,  or  family  burial  mosque,  built 
by  Mohammed  Ali.  The  monuments  (including  those  of  Ibrahim 
and  'Abbas  I. ;  p.  cxxii)  are  in  white  marble  and  were  executed 
by  Greek  and  Armenian  sculptors.  The  inscriptions  and  ornament- 
ation are  richly  gilded  and  painted.  —  About  V2  M.  to  the  W.  of 
the  mosque  of  Imam  Shafi'i  lie  the  sulphur-baths  of  'Ain  ea-Sira, 
frequented  by  the  Egyptians  (train  in  14  min.  from  the  Bab  el-Liik, 
p.  35,  on  Frid.  and  holidays  only^.  Thence  to  the  mosque  of  Amr 
and  Old  Cairo,  see  pp.  Ill,  110. 


116   Route  5.  MOKATTAM.  Environs 

From  the  Bab  el-Karafeh  the  Aqueduct  (Arab.  El-Kan&tir),  built 
by  Sultan  El-Gh<iri  and  formerly  ascribed  to  Saladiu,  runs  in  a  wide 
sweep  towards  the  Nile  (see  p.  104).  It  supplied  the  citadel  with 
water  before  the  construction  of  the  new  water-works. 


3.  The  Mokattam  Hills. 

An  excursion  to  the  Mokattam  Hills  is  best  made  from  the  citadel  (tram 
ways  Nos.  2,  6,  and  13,  to  the  Place  Saladin,  see  p.  38).  The  route  from 
the"  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  is  to  be  avoided  on  account  of  the  intolerable 
dust.  The  excursion  may  be  combined  with  the  visit  to  the  smaller  Petrified 
Forest  in  the  manner  indicated  at  p.  119.  The  View  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  that  Egypt  has  to  offer,  and  no  energetic  traveller  should  be 
.satisfied  wdth  the  substitutes  afforded  by  the  citadel  (near  the  mosque  of 
Mohammed  Ali,  see  p.  69j  or  the  Windmill  Hills  (p.  114).  It  is  best  at 
sunset  or  in  the  morning  between  8  and  9  o'clock.  A  visit  at  the  time  of 
the  full  moon  is  attractive  also. 

From  the  Citadel  (p.  68)  the  route  ascends  in  au  almost  straight 
direction,  passing  through  the  Bab  el-Gebel  (PI.  F,  6;  p.  70)  and 
over  the  railway-bridge.    About  ^2  It.  brings  us  to  the  top. 

The  Mokattam  or  Moqattam  Hills  (666  ft.  high),  to  the  E.  of 
Cairo,  also  called  Gebel  GiyHshi,  after  the  conspicuous  mosque  situat- 
ed on  the  summit,  belong  to  the  great  range  of  nummulitic  lime- 
stone mountains  which  extend  from  N.W.  Africa,  across  Egypt  and 
India,  to  China.  This  nummulite  formation  is  one  of  the  eocene,  or 
oldest  deposits  of  the  tertiary  period.  It  yields  a  favourite  building- 
stone,  and  there  are  numerous  quarries  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills. 

Nummulitic  limestone  is  remarkably  rich  in  fossils,  the  chief  mass  of 
which  consists  of  millions  of  nummulites  or  rhizopods  of  the  polythala- 
mia  group.  The  larger  kinds  are  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter 
and  the  smaller  about  Vs  inch.  They  are  frequently  seen  also  in  the 
stones  of  the  Pyramids,  part  of  the  material  for  which  was  taken  from 
the  quarries  of  the  Mokattam.  The  quarries  yield  also  a  profusion  of  sea- 
urchins  (clypeaster,  cidaris,  echinolampas,  etc.),  various  kinds  of  bivalves 
(including  many  oysters),  cerithium,  ovula,  strombus,  nerita,  turritella, 
nautilus,  sharks,  teeth,  and  bones  of  the  halicore.  Beautiful  crystals  of 
isinglass-stone  and  of  strontian  also  occur. 

The  **ViBw  from  the  top  is  magnificent  and  in  a  good  light  is 
finer  than  any  other  in  tlie  neighbourhood  of  Cairo.  The  citadel, 
the  mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali,  and  the  grand  burial-grounds  of  the 
desert  form  a  noble  foreground ;  the  venerable  Nile  dotted  with  its 
lateen  sails  flows  below  us  in  its  quiet  majesty;  to  the  W.,  on  the 
borders  of  the  immeasurable  desert,  tower  the  huge  and  wondrous 
old  Pyramids,  gilded  and  reddened  by  the  setting  sun.  The  thousand 
minarets  of  the  city  and  the  citadel  are  then  also  tinted  with  a 
delicate  rosy  hue.  A  still  more  varied  view  is  commanded  by  a 
steep  projection  to  the  S.  of  the  mosque,  the  foreground  being 
especially  picturesque,  while  the  horizon  to  the  S.  seems  more  open 
and  tempts  our  fancy  to  visit  the  wonders  of  Upper  Egypt. 

The  Giyfishi  Mosque,  one  of  the  oldest  in  Cairo,  was  built  in 
1085,  during  the  Fatimite  period,  by  the  Emir  Badr  el-Gamali,  the 
grand  vizier  of   Sultan  El-Mustansir.     According  to  tradition  he 


of  Cairo.  MOKATTAM.  5.  Route.    117 

chose  this  high-lying  situation  that  he  might  still,  even  after  death, 
he  ahle  to  see  the  mausolea  of  his  seven  favourite  wives  In  the 
valley  helow. 

The  entrance  to  the  mosque  lieS  on  the  K.W.  side  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  minaret,  which  is  built  in  the  earlier  style  of  architecture.  It 
leads  to  an  open  court  adjoined  by  the  vaulted  prayer-room  which  is 
decorated  in  the  Byzantine-Persian  taste.  To  the  left  of  it  is  the  tomb 
of  the  founder. 

Below  the  mosque  are  the  Rocky  Caves  of  Coptic  monks,  with  Coptic 
and  Arabic  inscriptions.     Some  of  them  may  be  reached  by  a  steep  path. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  plateau  is  an  old  Turkish  Fort,  whence  a 
hridge  descends  to  the  citadel.  On  the  N.E.  and  higher  part  of  the 
Mokattam,  separated  from  the  citadel  hy  a  large  quarry,  is  a  memor- 
ial stone,  to  the  right,  adjoining  the  summit,  erected  in  1874  hy 
the  British  party  of  scientific  men  who  observed  the  transit  of  Venus 
from  this  point.  The  projecting  rock  in  front  of  this  commands 
the  most  extensive  panorama  in  the  neighhourhood  of  Cairo, 
and  should  certainly  he  visited  if  time  permit.  The  S.  end  of 
these  hills  is  skirted  by  the  road  to  the  smaller  Petrified  Forest, 
vrhich  may  be  reached  from  this  point  in  about  1  hr.  (see  p.  119). 

On  the  steep  slope  of  the  Mokattam,  to  the  S.  of  the  Giyushi 
Mosque,  lies  the  so-called  Castle  of  the  Mamelukes  or  mosque  of  El- 
Khalawati,  built  in  1533.  The  ruinous  interior  may  be  entered  from 
below.  A  steep  path,  practicable  for  expert  climbers  only,  ascends 
hence  through  the  above-mentioned  Coptic  caves  to  the  plateau. 

The  route  back  to  the  town  skirts  the  citadel  on  the  S.  and 
leads  via  tlie  Bab  el-Kardfeh  and  the  Place  Saladin  (p.  68). 

4.  Spring  of  Moses  and  the  Petrified  Forest. 

The  geologist  will  certainly  find  it  profitable  to  visit  the  Petrified 
Forest  (comp.  p.  Ixix),  but  for  other  travellers  its  chief  interest  lies  in 
the  fact  that  they  here  obtain  their  first  glimpse  of  the  E.  desert.  The 
latter  may  therefore  ccjnfent  themselves  with  an  excursion  to  the  Little 
Petrified  Forest,  the  outskirts  of  which  may  be  reached  in  l'/2-2  hrs.  The 
expedition  may  be  made  in  half-a-day  on  donkey-back  (p.  39).  Carriages 
require  extra  horses  and  even  then  sometimes  stick  in  the  sand.  —  The 
deviation  to  the  so-called  Spring  of  Moses  adds  rather  less  than  an  hour 
to  the  expedition,  and  if  the  donkey-boy  knows  the  route  a  guide  may  be 
dispensed  with.  A  visit  to  the  Great  Petrified  Forest  can  hardly  be  ac- 
complished without  the  aid  of  a  well-informod  guide. 

Starting  at  the  Bab  en-Nasr  (p.  77),  or  from  the  point  where 
the  route  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliphs  leaves  the  Muski  (p.  Ill), 
we  ride  by  the  Tombs  of  the  Caliplis,  pass  between  the  Mokattam 
(p.  116)  and  the  'Red  Mountain'  (p.  115),  and  ascend  a  desert 
valley,  into  wliich  the  E.  spurs  of  the  Mokattam  descend.  Farther 
on  an  isolated  hill  of  red  and  black  sandstone  resembling  the  'Red 
Mountain'  is  visible  in  the  desert  on  our  left.  W  cross  a  water- 
course (usually  dry) ,  where  tlie  paths  separae  That  to  the 
right  (S.E.)  leads  to  the  Spring  of  Moses  and  te.  l.,ittle  Petrified 
Forest  (p.  118),  wliile  tliat  to  the  left  (E.)  is  th  the  te  to  the  Great 
Petrified  Forest  and  the  Bir  el-Fahm  (p.  119). e  rou 


118   Route  5.  PETRIFIED  FOKEST.  Environs 

Abont  100  paces  to  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain-slope  behind 
the  tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  which  we  ascend  on  this  side  past  some  large 
lime-kilns,  we  may  trace  the  high-water  level  of  the  sea  in  the  pliocene 
age,  235  ft.  above  the  present  sea-level,  on  a  rocky  face  of  the  nnmmulife 
plateau,  thickly  dotted  over  with  holes  made  by  boring  shells. 

Following  the  path  to  the  right,  we  observe  a  yellowish  hill  at 
the  foot  of  the  spurs  of  the  Mokattam  and  reach  it  in  1/4  hr.  more. 
This  hill  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  narrow,  winding  valley,  3/4  M. 
in  length ,  through  which  the  path  to  the  Spring  of  Moses  ascends 
over  large  blocks  of  stone  and  rubble.  The  ravine  terminates  in  a 
lofty  amphitheatre  of  rock.  Here  is  a  cleft  in  the  rock  from  which 
trickle  a  few  drops  of  bitter  and  brackish  water,  quite  arbitrarily 
named  the  Spring  of  Moses  ('Ain  Miiaa). 

In  order  to  reach  the  smaller  Petrified  Poorest  we  return  to  the 
mouth  of  the  gorge  and  proceed  towards  the  S.E.,  skirting  the 
slopes  of  the  Mokattam,  which  are  here  more  precipitous.  "We  first 
pass  a  black  projecting  rock,  which  has  a  glazed  appearance,  and 
then  a  square  gap  in  the  rock,  beyond  which  we  observe  opposite 
to  us  gently  sloping  hills,  consisting  of  limestone,  marl,  and  beds 
of  fossil  oysters.  The  route  ascends  between  these  hills  and  soon 
reaches  the  plateau  of  the  Gebel  el-Ehashab,  where  the  scattered 
fragments  of  fossil  wood  indicate  the  beginning  of  the  Little  Petri- 
fied Forest.  These  trunks  and  fragments  have  been  referred  by 
Unger  to  an  extinct  tree,  which  he  named  the  Nicolia  ^gypliaca 
and  regarded  as  akin  to  the  bombaceae.  The  petrifaction  is  now 
generally  supposed  to  have  occurred  during  the  later  tertiary  period 
under  the  action  of  silicious  geysers,  resembling  those  to  be  seen  to- 
day in  the  Yellowstone  Park  of  North  America.  The  silicated  trunks 
lie  in  a  secondary  stratum,  the  overlying  strata  in  which  they  were 
originally  embedded  having  disappeared  in  the  course  of  the  desert 
denudation. 

Crossing  the  plateau  of  the  Petrified  Forest  for  abont  20  min.  more 
towards  the  S.,  we  suddenly  reach  the  S.  slopes  of  the  Mokattam,  through 
a  gap  in  which  a  path  descends  into  the  Wddi  et-Tih,  or  'valley  of  wan- 
derings' (more  correctly  Wddi  Digla).  This  valley  stretches  to  the  W. 
towards  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  and  begins  at  the  hills  of  Gharabun,  like 
the  parallel  Wadi  Hof  fp.  170),  which"  debouches  to  the  N.  of  Helwan. 
On  the  S.  horizon  rise  the  hills  of  Tura  (p.  170),  recognizable  by  the  old 
Mameluke  fortress  on  their  right  spur  and  by  two  heights  exactly  opposite 
to  us,  of  which  that  to  the  left  somewhat  resembles  a  coffin  in  shape  while 
that  to  the  right  is  hemispherical.  Crossing  the  bottom  of  the  valley  in 
this  direction  (S.),  we  perceive  in  the  Tura  hills  the  entrance  to  a  desert 
gorge,  bounded  by  lofty  and  precipitous  slopes.  This  valley  extends  for 
many  miles  in  various  windings,  communicates  with  the  ravines  of  the 
desert  which  begin  in  the  Gebel  Hof  near  Helwan,  and  is  abundantly 
stocked  with  the  plants  peculiar  to  the  desert. 

We  may  return  to  Cairo  from  the  Little  Petrified  Forest  through 
the  Wadi  et-Tih  (see  above),  skirting  the  S.  and  W.  slopes  of  the 
Mokattam  and  passing  the  Jewish  cemetery  and  the  tombs  of  the 
Mamelukes.  Another  return-route  leads  across  the  Mokattam  hills 
If  we  choose  the  latter  we  quit  the  Petrified  Forest  by  a  hollow  to  th 
W.,  and  ascend  over  ridges  to  a  plateau,  stretching  towards  the  W 


of  Cairo.  NEW  HELIOPOLIS.  5.  Route.    119 

and  bounded  on  either  hand  by  hills.  We  hold  somewhat  to  the  right 
and  soon  reach  a  road,  which  finally  passes  through  a  rocky  ravine 
near  tlie  Giyuslii  eminence,  the  view  from  which  (p.  116)  forms  an 
admirable  close  to  the  day's  excursion.  Thence  to  the  city,  see  p.  116. 

The  following  Shoktek  Wat  may  be  recommended.  We  ride  as 
described  at  pp.  117,  118  direct  to  the  Little  Petrified  Forest  and  then 
return  to  the  Spring  ol'  Sloses.  Hence  we  ascend  to  the  W.  to  the  plateau 
of  the  Mokattam  and  ride  across  it  toward  the  W.  to  the  Giyushi  mosque 
(p.  116).     From  the  mosque  we  descend  to  the  citadel. 

A  visit  to  the  Great  Petrified  Forest  near  Bir  el-Fahm  (4  hrs. 
to  the  E.  of  Cairo  and  2V2  hrs.  beyond  the  Little  Petrified  Forest)  takes 
a  whole  day,  and  is  fatiguing,  especially  as  the  traveller  has  the  sun  in 
his  face  both  in  going  and  returning.  The  route  mentioned  on  p.  117  is 
not  recommended  for  the  outward  journey,  as  the  point  for  which  we 
are  bound,  not  being  conspicuous,  is  liable  to  be  missed.  It  is  better  to 
leave  Cairo  by  the  Bdb  el-Kai-afeh  (P1.E,7;  p.  68),  pass  the  Tombs  of  the 
Mamelukes  fp.  115)  and  the  goods-railway  to  Helwan,  and,  leaving  the  village 
of  El-Basatin  on  the  right,  ascend  to  the  left  by  the  Jewish  Cemetery.  After 
reaching  the  lop  of  the  hill  we  follow  the  Wddi  et-Tih  (p.  118)  toward.s 
the  K.  for  I1/4-IV2  br.  more.  Above  the  gradual  slopes  of  the  desert, 
about  P/i  M.  to  the  left,  we  then  perceive  several  reddish  hills  and 
another  of  yellowish  colour  in  front.  Kiding  towards  the  latter  we  reach 
on  its  E.  slopes  the  debris  of  the  Bir  el-Fahm  ('coal  welT)  and  remains 
of  some  walls,  dating  from  the  period  (1840)  when  an  unsuccessful  search 
for  coal  was  made  here.  The  hills  of  the  desert  to  the  N.,  N.W.,  and 
W.  of  the  Bir  el-Fahm  form  the  Great  Petrified  Forest,  and  are  thickly 
strewn  with  trunks  and  fragments  of  fossil  timber.  These  are  generally 
brown  and  black,  with  a  polished  appearance,  and  frequently  contain  chal- 
cedony. A  sand-hill ,  '/j  hr.  to  the  N.  of  Bir  el-Fahm,  to  the  base  of 
which  the  petrified  forest  extends,  afifords  a  good  survey  of  the  district. 
To  the  K.W.  are  the  Mokattam,  the  'Red  Mountain',  'Abbasiyeh,  and  the 
plain  of  the  Nile. 

5.  New  Heliopolis  (Heliopolis  Oasis). 

The  most  convenient  route  to  the  new  suburb  of  Heliopolis  Oasis  is  by 
electric  expre.'is  railway  or  tramway  (see  p.  .39).  Carriage,  see  p.  39.  — 
The  excursions  to  Old  and  New  Heliopolis  may  be  combined  by  taking 
(on  the  return  from  the  former)  the  electric  tramway  from  the  railway 
station  of  Palais  de  Koubbeh  (p.  120)  to  Heliopolis  Oasis. 

New  Heliopolis  (hotels,  see  p.  36),  or  Heliopolis  Oasis,  known 
also  to  the  Arabs  as -Uasrei-Cj'edrde/i  ('New Cairo'),  is  a  modern  suburb 
founded  by  a  Belgian  company  in  190G,  in  the  desert  to  the  N.E. 
of  'Abbasiyeh  and  near  the  now  English  barracks.  It  occupies  a 
healthy  situation  ami  is  intended  to  become  a  residential  suburb  for 
British  officers  and  officials  and  a  health-resort  for  tlie  inhabitants 
of  Cairo  generally.  It  is  laid  out  on  an  ambitious  scale,  with  broad, 
tree-planted  streets  and  squares,  with  hotels,  pleasure-resorts  (Luna 
Park,  adm.  2  pias.),  a  racecourse,  a  stadium,  where  stows  of  all 
kinds  are  held,  and  the  grounds  of  tlie  Sporting  Club  (p.  42). 

6.   Old  Heliopolis. 

This  expedition  i.'f  best  made  by  Carriage  (p.  39;  drive  to  the  obelisk 
I'/i  hr.),  though  it  may  be  accomplished  also  by  Bailtcay  to  Matariyeh, 
starting  from  the  Pont  Limun  Station  (PI.  B,  1;  p.  35).  Trains  run  half- 
hourly  and  take  17-23  min.  for  the  journey  (day  return-tickets  d'/a  or  3  pias.). 


120    Route  5.  OLD  HELIOPOLIS.  Environs 

Donkey  from  the  station  of  Matariyeh  to  the  Virgin's  Tree  and   the  Obe- 
lisk and  back,  4  pias.  —  To  New  Heliopolis,  see  p.  119. 

The  High  Road  leads  through  'Abbdstyeh  (p.  78)  and  crosses 
the  railway  to  El-Marg,  near  Pont  de  Koubbeh.  About  halfway  to 
Matariyeh  we  skirt  the  garden  of  the  Khedivial  Palace,  the  winter- 
residence  of  the  Khedive  (no  admission).  The  plain  between 
Kubbeh  and  Matariyeh  has  been  the  scene  of  two  important  battles. 
In  1517  the  Battle  of  Heliopolis  made  Selim  and  the  Turks  masters 
of  Egypt;  and  on  March  20th,  1800,  General  KleTier  with  10,000 
French  troops  succeeded  in  defeating  60,000  Orientals,  and  in  con- 
sequence of  this  victory  regained  possession  of  Cairo,  although  for  a 
short  time  only.  We  then  reach  the  village  of  Matariyeh  (see  below). 

The  Railway  passes  the  following  stations  :  i-^/^  M.  Demir- 
d(Uh  (DemerdacheJ,  station  for  'Ahb'tslyeh  (p.  78) ;  21/2  M.  Manchiet 
es-Sadr;  3  M.  Pont  de  Koubbeh  ( Kubri  Kubbeh);  31/2  M.  Koubbeh- 
les-Bains  (Hammdmdt  Kubbeh);  41/4  M.  Palais  de  Koubbeh  (/Serut 
Kubbeh;  khedivial  palace,  see  above;  electric  tramway  to  Helio- 
polis Oasis,  p.  119)  ;  5  M.  'Ezbet  ez-ZeitUn  (Gr.-H6t.  Zeitun,  at  the 
station),  with  numerous  villas  and  a  School  for  the  Blind  (adm., 
see  p.  42);  51/2  M,  Helmlyeh.  —  6V4  M.  Matdrhjeh,  station  for  Old 
Heliopolis.  Beyond  the  station  (to  the  W.)  is  a  road  leading  direct 
to  the  (I/2  M.)  Virgin's  Tree. 

The  railway  goes  on,  via  'Fin  esh-Shems  (Ein-el-Chams) ,  'Ezbet  en- 
NakhUh,  El-Marg  (p.  121),  Khdnkah  (p.  121),  and  Abu  Za'tal,  with  basalt- 
quarries,  to  (22'/2  M.  from  Cairo)  Skibin  el-Kandtir  (p.  170). 

Matariyeh  (Or. -Hot.  Matarieli)  is  an  insigniflcant  village,  note- 
worthy only  for  its  proximity  to  Heliopolis  and  for  its  possession 
of  the  Virgin's  Tree,  an  ancient  sycamore,  under  which,  according 
to  the  legend,  the  Virgin  and  Child  once  rested  during  the  Flight 
into  Egypt.  The  sycamore,  planted  after  1672,  was  seriously  in- 
jured in  1906,  but  a  shoot  still  flourishes  and  is  now  protected  by 
a  railing.  The  garden  in  which  it  grows  is  watered  by  means  of 
a  double  sakiyeh,  supplied  from  a  shallow  reservoir  fed  by  springs. 
This  water  is  drinkable,  while  that  of  all  the  other  springs,  which 
percolates  through  the  ground  from  the  Nile,  is  usually  brackish ; 
and  this  peculiar  quality  is  popularly  ascribed  to  the  fact  that  the 
spring  was  called  into  being  by  the  Child  Jesus.  Adjoining  the 
garden  is  the  Roman  Catholic  chapel  of  Notre~Dame  de  Matarieh. 

From  the  garden  the  Shdri'  el-Misalla  (Chareh  el  Massalla)  leads 
in  12-15  minutes  to  the  obelisk  and  ruins  of  the  famous  ancient 
Heliopolis  (p.  cxlv),  or  city  of  the  sun  ,  called  On  by  the  Egyp- 
tians. The  latter  name  frequently  occurs  in  the  Bible.  Thus,  in 
Genesis  (xli.  45),  we  are  informed  that  Pharaoh  gave  Joseph  'to 
wifeAsenath,  the  daughter  of  Poti-pherah  (Egypt,  Pete-pre,  'he 
whom  the  sun-god  Re  has  given'),  priest  of  On'. 

On-Beliopolis  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  Egyptian  cities  and  was 
the  chief  town  of  a  separate  province  included  in  Lower  Egypt.  The 
deities   of  the   place   were  the   falcon-heailed  Re-Harakhte  (the  sun-god, 


of  Cairo.  OLD  HELTOPOLTS.  5.  Route.    121 

whence  the  Greek  name  lleliopolis)  anil  the  hnman-headed  Atum,  to 
whom  the  sacred  Mnevis  Bull  was  consecrated.  To  these  was  dedicated  the 
famous  temple,  'the  House  of  Re',  built  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  edifice 
hy  Amenenthit  /.,  first  king  of  the  12th  Dyn.,  in  front  of  which  his  son 
and  successor  Sesottris  I.  erected  two  great  obelisks  (see  below)  in 
celebration  of  an  important  anniversary.  A  large  section  of  the  Egyp- 
tian religions  literature  was  due  to  the  priests  of  Heliopolis,  and  their 
doctrines  were  widely  disseminated  throughout  the  country  at  a  very 
early  period,  so  that  Ke-Harakhte  was  one  of  the  most  highly  venerated 
deities  in  Egypt.  —  Even  during  the  Greek  period  these  priests  enjoyed 
a  high  reputation  for  wisdom  ;  Herodotus  conversed  with  them  and  Plato 
is  said  to  have  spent  thirteen  years  with  them,  in  order  to  learn  some 
at  least  of  their  doctrines.  —  Under  the  New  Empire  the  temple  of 
Ueliopolis  was  the  largest  and  most  richly  endowed  in  all  Egypt,  next  to 
the  temple  of  Amon  at  Thebes.  —  When  Strabo  (b.  about  60  B.C.)  visited 
Kgypt  the  city  had  been  destroyed,  but  the  temple  was  still  intact,  ex- 
cept for  some  minor  injuries  attributed  to  Cambyses;  even  the  houses  of 
the  prie.'^ts  and  the  apartments  of  Plato  and  his  friend  Eudoxus  were 
shown  to  the  traveller.  The  priestly  school,  however,  had  ceased  to  exist, 
and  only  a  few  officiating  priests  and  guides  for  foreigners  resided  there. 

The  outer  walls,  rising  in  all  directions  from  the  fields,  are 
now  the  only  vestiges  of  the  city,  while  of  the  temple  nothing  is 
leftljut  a  few  scanty  ruins  and  a  solitary  Olelhk  (Aral).  El-Misalla). 
Tlie  latter  is  of  red  granite  of  Syene  (_Assuan,  p.  354)  and  is  66  ft. 
high.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wooden  fence  and  rises  picturesquely 
amid  mulberry-trees.  Each  of  the  four  sides  bears  the  same  inscrip- 
tion in  bold  hieroglyphics,  recording  that  Sesostris  I.  (Senwosret), 
King  of  Upper  and  l>ower  Egypt,  lord  of  the  diadems  and  son  of  the 
sun,  whom  the  (divine)  spirits  of  On  (Heliopolis)  love,  etc.,  founded 
the  obelisk  on  the  first  festival  of  Set  (a  kind  of  jubilee  celebration). 
The  pyramid ium  at  the  top  and  the  falcons  wbich  begin  the  inscrip- 
tions on  each  side  were  once  covered  with  metal.  The  companion 
obelisk  (for  these  monuments  were  always  erected  in  pairs)  stood 
down  to  the  12th  century. 

To  the  W.  of  the  obelisk  the  remains  of  the  temple  may  be  recog- 
nized in  a  few  blocks  of  granite,  bearing  inscriptions  by  Ramses  11.  On 
one  Ramses  II.  appears  offering  a  libation  to  Atnm.  —  The  Necropolis  of 
Heliopolis  lies  about  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  obelisk. 

The  excursion  may  be  extended  to  the  villages  of  El-Marg  or  El- 
Mevg  (21/2  M.),  with  some  ruins  of  the  18th  Dyn.,  and  Khdnkdh,  on  the 
outskirts  of  the  desert  (7'/2  M.  from  ilatariyeh),  both  stations  on  the  rail- 
way from  Cairo  to  Shibin  el-Kanatir  (see  p.  120).  The  palm-groves  at  El- 
Marg  afford  pleasant  walks. 

1.  Barrage  du  Nil. 

The  Branch  Railway  to  thkBauraoe  is  traversed  by  ten  trains  daily 
from  Cairo  (I6V2M.,  in  30-35  min.;  fare  6or4pias.,  day  return-tickets  81/2 
or  572  pias.).  The  intermediate  stations  are  Shubra  and  KalyOb  (p.  34). 
The  best  plan  is  to  walk  from  the  Barrage  station  and  to  return  by  the 
small  'trolley',  pushed  by  Arabs,  which  unites  Barrage  with  the  station  of 
Kl-Mandshi,'  on  the  West  Nile  Railway  {p.  32;  1-2  pers.  10,  3  pers.  13,  4 
pers.  15  pias.  per  hr. ;  from  the  station  to  the  village  of  El-Manashi  across 
the  river,  or  vice  versa,  4  pias.,  each  addit.  pers  2  pias.).  Opposite  the 
Barrage  station  is  the  Restaurant  TewCkieh.  —  Blessrs.  Cook  &  Son  arrange 
special  excursions  by  steam-launch  to  the  Barrage  (see  notice  at  the  hotels). 
Also  steamers  of  the  Compagnie  dcs  Bateaux-Omnibus  (p.  39). 


122     Route  5.  BARRAGE  DU  NIL. 

The  object  of  the  *Barrag'e  du  Nil,  the  largest  structure  of 
the  kind  in  the  world  after  the  Assuan  Dam  (p.  371 ),  is  to  keep 
the  water-level  in  the  Delta  uniform  in  all  seasons,  so  as  to  ob- 
viate the  necessity  for  the  old  irrigation  machinery,  with  its  great 
expenditure  of  labour,  and  to  remove  the  difficulties  of  naviga- 
tion during  the  three  months  when  the  Nile  is  at  its  lowest. 
The  work  was  begun  under  Mohammed  Ali,  about  1835.  Linant 
Bey  proposed  to  alter  the  course  of  the  river  and  to  build  a  weir 
farther  to  the  N. ,  where  the  configuration  of  the  ground  appeared 
more  favourable;  but  his  plan  was  judged  too  costly  and  was  reject- 
ed in  favour  of  one  proposed  by  a  French  engineer  named  Mougel 
Bey.  The  cost  of  establishing  foundations  in  the  shifting  soil  of 
the  Delta,  however,  far  exceeded  the  estimates;  and,  after  all,  the 
erection  was  found  to  be  too  insecure  for  its  intended  purpose.  For 
nearly  twenty  years  after  1867  the  Barrage  lay  useless,  as  a  costly 
failure;  but  in  1885-90  Sir  Colin  Scott-Moncrieff  sncces&fuUy  com- 
pleted it  at  a  cost  of  460,000^.,  so  that  now  a  depth  of  water  of 
about  12  ft.  can  be  maintained  in  the  W.  branch  of  the  Nile.  In 
consequence  of  a  burst  in  the  winter  of  1909-10  considerable  streng- 
thening works  became  necessary,  which  are  not  yet  quite  finished. 

Nearest  the  station  are  the  Weirs  on  the  Rayah  et-Tauftld  a.n A 
on  the  E.  (Damietta)  Branch  of  the  Nile.  The  latter  weir  is  over 
500  yds.  in  length  and  has  68  vertical  iron  sluices.  From  the 
farther  end  a  pretty  avenue  of  lebbakh-  trees  leads  across  the 
isthmus  (about  1/2  M.  wide)  between  the  arms,  in  the  middle  of 
which  is  the  Rayah  el-Menilfiyeh,  constructed  both  for  irrigation  and 
for  communication  with  the  district  of  MenHfiyeh  (p.  33).  The  Weir 
on  thje  W.  (Rosetta)  Branch  of  the  Nile  is  about  480  yds.  across  and 
has  58  vertical  iron  sluices.  Farther  to  the  W.  is  a  fourth  Weir,  on 
the  Mahmild'iyeh  Canal,  constructed  a  few  years  ago.  The  navigation 
of  the  river  is  carried  on  by  means  of  spacious  basins  and  lociis, 
fitted  with  swing-bridges,  at  either  end  of  the  two  weirs  and  also  on 
the  Rayah  el-Menufiyeh.  The  superstructures  of  the  works  are  built 
in  an  effective  Norman  castellated  style.  A  junction-canal  above  the 
weirs  connects  the  two  branches  of  the  Nile,  and  is  used  to  regulate 
the  depth  of  water  in  each.  When  the  river  is  low  the  W.  branch 
receives  all  its  water  through  this  canal. 

The  island,  formerly  occupied  by  fortifications,  is  now  covered 
with  attractive  and  extensive  ^Gardens,  laid  out  with  flower-beds, 
artificial  rocks,  etc.,  by  Mr.  Draper,  an  Englishman.  —  In  the  gar- 
den is  a  Museum,  with  models  of  the  various  water-works  of  Egypt. 

If  not  pressed  for  time  the  traveller  should  visit  the  little  Arab 
viUage  of  Shalakdn  which  stretches  along  the  river  near  the  Barrage 
station.  A  charming  and  picturesque  impression  of  Egyptian  coun- 
try-life is  obtained  here  on  market-days. 


^^  Traces  of  ancient 
Walls,  ErnbanJcfjients, 
<{•  Tomb.-.;  mosllr  rov- 
eretl  \\'ith  sand 


Route daicraed,  W'W^  A^M     '  ^^P 


in  the  Sandbook. 
Modern  Buihlinffs  coloxtrt'J 
Wack. 


^* 


IS 


.    Smat/  /'zi^^r' 

I   Third  \  "°^''''' 

ITYramid   \ 


Vorfirar^- 
^Temple 

\>,_^ 

1  S.            Pyramid 
1  S      o^rtc  ^J/i-e/i 

'i  1 

Vnfinislietlfyramiw^f 


i,M 


Tani 


ci]^ 


7b  mi 

(ara-iefren  s 

m7A.  Cai^f.rns       Cenieia^v  '■ 


3  !a 


Eiffel.  Tower, 


CaUiL>d.X?ologzie 


*^®  S'Petpr's,Roin.e 


Second 


Pvramid 

of  KUeops  XYsktA. 

-^  Pvraxa. 

Comparalive  TabLe   of  He i girts 


Gcogi-apK  Tnstit  .of 


._/^'!i\- 


ters^  ^ 


^1 


^W 


A' 


""-Jh 


References: 

a  Khedivml  Kiosqtie 

h .  X  }>'  Cornet- stone  vft/ie 

Great  Pvrftrtu'd 
c^astaia  ol'yifer-be^fUOi 

d.  Small  natural  cleft  in-  the 
rock  through  vhidt  -rOritors 
descend  to  the  Second  TyrajnH 

e.  Qwirrv  n-irh  hierofft  ■ 
Itiscriptton  above 

f .  HieroglJnscrip.  on  the  vail, 
ojid  Hock  Tombs 

0 .  Jtoc7.-  Tomb  Tr-ith  palm  -  rdlmg 
h.  Tomb  ot'Tebdme,Xih  Vynas^ 
i.       „       ^  Tsamlik 

V.       .       -  Werl.^eKew:SthDvnas^ 

1.  Frramid  oftheBaughtePor 
JOteopstarrorduy  to  Hirodatv.^ 

m .  Supposed  JVortar.p  its 
n.  'Tomb  of  Sumhers' 
o.  Sanctuary  of  Isis 


G  r  e  a  i 


'  K  h  e  0  p  s  >  ■^'"'■"'if' 
P  vi'aiuid  i 


T  o 


dirrcren.t  pe 


b  s  I' 


^\ 


ids 


~'-s:r^ 


'iy^ 


\-^.\    ^\\   y     ^ yulttvaied  Land 


123 


6.  The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh. 

The  excursion  to  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  recinires  at  least  half-a-day. 
Elbctbic  Tbamwat  from  the  'Ataba  el-Khadra  to  the  (1  hr.)  Mena  House 
Hotel,  see  No.  14  (p.  38);  also,  No.  15  as  far  as  Gizeh  Village  only,  see  p.  39.  — 
By  Caeriage  the  drive  takes  I-IV4  hr.  each  way  (p.  39).  Ctclists  and  Motor- 
ists will  find  the  road  excellent.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  the  Ka-fr 
en-Nil  Bridge  is  open  for  11  2  hr.  daily  for  the  passage  of  vessel.s  (see  p. '79), 
when  the  somewhat  longer  routes  via  the  'Abbas  II.  Bridge  (see  below) 
or  the  Bulak  Bridge  (p.  79)  must  be  taken.  —  "Restaubant  at  the  Mena 
House  Hotel.  There  is  also  a  small  restaurant  at  the  terminus  of  the 
electric  tramway.  Or  the  travellers  may  bring  provisions  with  them  from 
their  hotel  (included  in  the  pension-charge). 

A  fine  and  calm  day  should  be  selected  for  a  visit  to  the  Pyramids, 
the  driving  sand  in  windy  weather  being  very  unpleasant.  Suti  Umbrellas 
and  Smoked  Spectacles  are  advisable  precantions  against  the  glare  of  the  sun. 
Ladies  who  intend  to  ascend  the  pyramids  should  dress  as  they  would  for 
mountain-climbing.  A  repetition  of  the  excursion  by  moonlight  produces 
an  ineffaceable  impression. 

Chief  Attractions.  Those  who  are  pressed  for  time  should  devote  their 
attention  to  the  ''Great  Pyramid  (p.  127;  ascend  to  the  summit  and  visit  the 
interior),  the  *~Sp/iinx  (p.  135),  and  the  'Valley  or  Granite  Temple  of  Khephren 
(p.  135).  The  inspection  of  these  chief  objects  of  interest  occupies  about 
2  hrs.    The  'Circuit  described  at  pp.  137-139  will  occupy  11,2-2  hrs.  more. 

The  tramway  to  the  Pyramids  (see  ahove)  traverses  the  quarter 
oi  Bdldk  and  the  Buldk  Bridge  to  the  island  of  Oezireh  (comp. 
pp.  78,  79)  which  it  crosses  to  the  Pont  Zamalek.  From  the  W.  end 
of  this  bridge  it  runs  to  the  S.  along  the  small  W.  arm  of  the  Nile 
to  the  Pont  des  Anglais  {p.  80),  joining  the  Shdri'  el-Gheh  which  it 
follows  past  the  Zoological  Gardens  (p.  80),  to  the  N.  end  of  Gizeh 
(station,  Otzeh  Village,  p.  80),  the  terminus  of  tramway  No.  15 
(p.  39).  [The  route  via  the  island  of  Roda,  which  the  tramway 
follows  when  the  Bulak  Bridge  is  open  (see  p.  79),  diverges  to  the 
right  from  the  line  to  Old  Cairo,  ahout  750  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
water-tower  (p.  10-i),  crosses  the  narrow  branch  of  the  Nile  by  the 
Kl-Malek  ef-Saleh  Bridge,  traverses  the  island  of  Roda,  and  crosses 
the  main  arm  of  the  Nile  by  the  'Abbai  II.  Bridge  (595  yds.  long; 
open  10-11  a.m.  and  3.30-4. 30p.m.  for  the  passage  of  ships).  It  then 
runs  to  the  W.  to  Gizeh.]  Thence  the  road  to  the  Pyramids  (Shdri' 
el-Haram),  which  the  tramway  follows,  crosses  a  canal  and  intersects 
the  Upper  Egypt  Railway  (station;  Gizeh  railway  station  lies  ca. 
5  min.  to  the  S.,  p.  143).  After  crossing  a  second  canal  it  leads  straight 
towards  the  Pyramids,  which  are  still  nearly  5  M.  distant.  On  the 
left  lie  the  huts  of  two  fellahin  villages,  Et-Talibtyeh  and  Kom  el- 
Akhdar  (tramway-station).  The  fields  on  each  side  are  intersected  by 
canals.  The  huge  angular  forms  of  the  Pyramids  gradually  become 
more  distinct,  and  soon  stand  out  in  clear  outlines. 

At  the  terminus  of  the  tramway,  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  are 
the  extensive  buildings  of  the  Mena  House  Hotel  (p.  36)  ;  opposite 
are  a  police-office,  a  post-office,  a  drug-store,  and  other  shops.  The 
road  goes  on  in  curves  up  the  steep  N.  slope  of  the  plateau  on 
which  the  Pyramids  stand. 

Basdbkek's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  •  9 


124    Route  6.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GlZEH.  Situation. 

At  the  tramway-terminus  is  a  stand  for  donkeys  and  cameli  (6  piss. 
per  hr.).  The  porters  of  the  Mena  House  Hotel  also  will  procure  riding- 
animals  at  a  fixed  tariff. 

Tickets  for  the  inspection  of  the  Pyramids  and  other  monuments  are 
sold  in  a  small  office  beside  the  Khedivial  Kiosque  (PI.  a),  near  the  N.E. 
angle  of  the  Great  Pyramid :  for  the  ascent  of  the  Great  Pyramid  10  piaa. ; 
for  a  visit  to  the  interior  of  the  Pyramid  10  pias.  ;  for  a  visit  to  the  Valley 
or  Granite  Temple  6  pias.  For  the  entire  expedition,  including  the  ascent 
of  the  Great  Pyramid  and  the  visit  to  its  interior,  the  charge  is  20  pias. 
Guides  (Beduins)  are  procured  here  through  application  to  their  sheikh. 
Bakshish  is  entirely  optional,  though  a  gratuity  of  a  few  pias.  is  customary. 
The  inspection  of  the  minor  points  of  interest  is  free  ;  our  plan  and  descrip- 
tion render  the  assistance  of  a  guide  entirely  superfluous.  —  No  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  begging  of  the  Beduins,  and  visitors  are  advised 
to  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  vendors  of  so-called  'antiquities'  (almost 
invariably  spurious).  The  fossil  sea-urchins  (Clypeaster  jEgyptiacus)  offered 
here  are  said  to  be  found  in  a  miocene  deposit,  on  a  hill  named  by  the 
Arabs  Gebel  Shellul,  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
Sphinx.  Other  guides  who  press  their  services  on  the  traveller  should 
be  repelled,  if  necessary  with  the  help  of  the  police. 

The  **Pyramids  of  Glzeh  form  the  second  and  most  imposing 
of  the  six  groups  of  pyramids  which  stand  on  the  margin  of  the 
plateau  of  the  Libyan  desert.  To  the  N.  lies  the  group  of  Abu  Roash 
(p.  139);  southwards  follow  the  groups  oiZdwiyet  el-'Arydn  (p.  140) 
and  Abustr  (p.  141),  Sakkdra  (p.  145),  and  Dahihxlr  (p.  166).  The 
Arab  word  for  a  pyramid  is  hdram  (pi.  ahrdm). 

The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  rank  among  the  oldest  monuments  of 
human  industry,  and  their  colossal  proportions  extort  from  us  to- 
day the  same  astonishment  as  was  felt  in  antiquity  by  Greek 
and  Roman  travellers.  We  marvel  not  only  at  the  technical  know- 
ledge and  ability  of  the  Egyptians,  but  also  at  the  might  of  their 
kings,  who  must  have  had  absolute  control  over  thousands  of 
their  subjects,  to  be  able  to  rear  such  monuments.  Some  conception 
of  the  enormous  amount  of  labour  involved  may  be  obtained  when 
we  learn  that,  according  to  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie's  calculation,  about 
2,300,000  separate  blocks  of  stone,  averaging  about  2y2  tons,  were 
required  for  the  Pyramid  of  Kheops,  and  that  some  of  them  were 
quarried  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile  and  had  to  be  ferried  across 
the  river  and  conveyed  to  the  desert-plateau. 

The  Construction  of  the  Pyramids  has  been  admirably  described 
by  Herodotus,  the  earliest  writer  on  the  subject,  who  visited  Egypt 
about  450  B.C. 

Herodotus  states  (ii.  124, 125)  that  there  were  about  100,000  men  employ- 
ed annually  for  three  months  in  constructing  the  Oreat  Pyramid  of  Kheops  i. 
'They  first  made  the  road  for  the  transport  of  the  stones  from  the  Nile  to 
the  Libyan  Mts. ;  the  length  of  the  road  amounts  to  five  stadia  (1017  yds.), 
its  breadth  is  ten  fathoms  (60  ft.),  and  its  height,  at  the  highest  places, 
is  eight  fathoms  (48  ft.),  and  it  is  constructed  entirely  of  smoothed  stone 

t  According  to  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie,  these  three  months  fell  during  the 
inundation,  when  field-work  was  at  a  stand-still  and  the  services  of  100,0(X) 
men  for  transporting  the  stones  could  be  easily  enough  obtained.  The 
stone-cutters  and  masons  were  probably  engaged  all  the  year  round  in 
the  quarries  and  on  the  pyramid  itself. 


Construction.         PYRAMIDS  OF  gIzEH.  6.  Route.    125 

with  figures  engraved  on  it+.  Ten  years  were  thns  consumed  in  making 
this  road  and  the  subterranean  chambers  (for  the  coffins).  The  con- 
struction of  the  Pyramid  itself  occupied  twenty  years.  Each  of  the 
four  sides  measures  eight  plethra  (820  ft.),  and  the  height  is  the  same. 
It  is  covered  with  smoothed  stones,  well  jointed,  none  of  which  is  less 
than  thirty  feet  long.  This  pyramid  was  first  built  in  the  form  of  a 
flight  of  steps.  After  the  workmen  had  completed  the  pyramid  in  this 
form,  they  raised  the  other  stones  (used  for  the  incrustation)  by  means 
of  machines,  made  of  short  beams,  from  the  ground  to  the  first  tier  of 
steps;  and  after  the  stone  was  placed  there  it  w;is  raised  to  the  second 
tier  by  another  machine;  for  there  were  as  many  machines  as  there  were 
tiers  of  steps;  or  perhaps  there  was  but  one  machine,  easily  moved,  that 
was  raised  from  one  tier  to  the  other,  as  it  was  required  for  lifting  the 
stones.  The  highest  part  of  the  pyramid  was  thus  finished  first  (by 
smoothing),  the  parts  adjoining  it  were  taken  next,  and  the  lowest  part, 
next  to  the  ground,  was  completed  last.  It  was  recorded  on  the  pyramid, 
in  Egyptian  writing,  how  much  was  spent  on  radishes,  onions,  and  roots 
of  garlic  for  distribntion  among  the  workmen  and,  if  I  rightly  remember 
what  the  interpreter  who  read  the  writing  told  me  ++,  the  money  they 
cost  amounted  to  sixteen  hundred  talents  of  silver  (upwards  of  350,000i.). 
If  this  was  really  the  case,  how  much  more  must  then  have  been  spent 
on  the  iron  with  which  they  worked,  and  on  the  food  and  clothing  of 
the  workmen.' 

In  modern  times  many  eager  discuasions  have  been  held  as  to 
the  mode  in  which  the  Pyramids  were  erected  and  the  meaning  of 
the  account  given  hy  Herodotus.  The  most  important  questions 
seem  to  be :  (_1)  How  could  Kheops,  when  he  ascended  the  throne 
and  chose  an  area  of  82,000  sq.  yards  for  his  monument,  know 
that  his  reign  ■would  be  so  unusually  long  as  to  enable  him  to  com- 
plete it?  (2)  If  one  of  the  builders  of  the  great  pyramids  had  died 
in  the  second  or  third  year  of  his  reign,  how  could  their  sons  or 
successors,  however  willing  to  carry  out  the  plan,  have  succeeded  in 
completing  so  gigantic  a  task  and  in  erecting  monuments  for  them- 
selves at  the  same  time?  (3)  And  how  comes  it  that  many  other 
kings  did  not,  like  Kheops,  boldly  anticipate  a  reign  of  thirty  years 
and  begin  a  work  of  the  same  kind,  the  design  for  which  might  so 
easily  have  been  drawn,  and  might  so  readily  have  been  carried 
out  by  his  subjects?  —  To  these  questions  Lepsius,  Erbkam,  and 
Ebers  answer.  'Each  king',  says  Lepsius  in  his  letters  from  Egypt, 
'began  to  build  his  pyramid  when  he  ascended  the  throne.  He  began 
it  on  a  small  scale,  in  order  that,  if  a  short  reign  should  be  in  store 
for  him,  his  tomb  might  be  a  complete  one.  As  years  rolled  on, 
however,  he  continued  enlarging  it  by  the  addition  of  outer  coatings 
of  stone,  until  he  felt  that  liis  career  was  drawing  to  a  close.  If 
he  died  before  the  work  was  completed  the  last  coating  was  then 
finished,  and  the  size  of  the  monument  was  accordingly  proportioned 
to  the  length  of  the  builder's  reign. '  —  This  'layer-theory'  of  the 


t  This  causeway  is  still  traceable.    It  terminated   on  the  E.    side  of 
the  Pyramid    of  Kheops  (see  Plan  and  p.  138). 

+t  It  is  unlikely  that  the  interpreters,  who  attended  travellers  like  the 
dragomans  of  the  present  day,  were  able  to  read  hieroglyphics.  They 
probably  repeated  mere  popular  traditions  regarding  the  pyramids  and 
other  monuments,    with  embellishments  and  exaggerations  of  their  own. 

9* 


126   Route  6.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH,         Construction. 

construction  of  the  Pyramids  has  been  opposed  by  Flinders  Petrie, 
who  has  sought  to  show  that  the  initial  plan  of  each  pyramid  practi- 
cally contemplated  the  full  extent  reached  by  the  completed  work. 
But  more  recently  Borchardt  has  demonstrated  conclusively  that 
Lepsius's  theory  of  the  gradual  growth  of  each  pyramid  is  not  incor- 
rect, though  it  requires  modification  in  some  essential  points.  Ac- 
cording to  Borchardt,  each  pyramid  builder  began  by  planning  a 
monument  of  moderate  size.  In  many  instances  this  original  small 
conception  was  permanently  adhered  to ;  but  it  not  unfrequently 
happened  that  kings  who  enjoyed  long  reigns  or  found  themselves 
in  control  of  more  extensive  powers  expanded  their  original  designs 
and  enlarged  their  buildings ,  either  by  mere  additions  without 
altering  the  passages  or  chambers  (as  in  the  step-pyramid  at  Sak- 
kara)  or  by  revising  the  whole  original  design,  including  the  cham- 
bers, etc.,  on  a  new  and  more  extensive  scale  (as  in  the  second 
and  third  pyramids  of  Gizeh).  Occasionally  a  second  enlargement 
took  place,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Great  Pyramid. 

The  Pyramids  were  opened  by  sacrilegious  robbers  at  a  very  early 
period,  probably  under  the  20th  Dyn. ,  when  also  the  tombs  of  the 
Theban  kings  were  plundered,  or  even  earlier.  Attempts  were  made 
to  force  an  entrance  into  the  inner  chambers,  and  passages  were 
laboriously  cut  through  the  solid  masonry  in  order  to  reach  the 
expected  treasures.  In  the  course  of  this  mining  and  tunnelling  the 
passages  and  chambers  sustained  much  damage.  Somewhere  about 
the  period  of  the  25th  or  26th  Dyn.  these  injuries  were  repaired 
and  the  pyramids  restored.  But  they  seem  to  have  been  again  in- 
vaded by  the  Persians ;  and  also  at  later  periods,  under  the  Romans 
and  under  the  Arabs ,  renewed  attempts  were  made  to  penetrate 
to  the  treasures  supposed  to  lie  in  the  interior. 

The  first  modern  traveller  who  carefully  and  successfully  examined 
the  Pyramids  was  Nicholas  Shaw  in  1721 ;  but  he  still  entertained  the 
notion  that  the  Sphinx  had  a  subterranean  connection  with  the  Great 
Pyramid.  He  was  followed  by  Norden  in  1737;  Pococke  in  1743,  who 
gives  a  plan  and  dimensions;  Fourmont  in  1755;  Carsten  Niebuhr  in 
1761;  Davison  in  1763;  Bruce  in  1768;  Volney  in  1783;  Browne  in  1792-98 ; 
Denon,  Coutelle,  Jomard,  and  other  savants  of  the  French  expedition 
under  Bonaparte  in  1799-1801.  Jomard  in  particular  has  the  merit  of 
having  taken  very  accurate  measurements.  Hamilton,  in  1801,  was  a 
dispassionate  and  critical  observer.  In  1817  Caviglia,  a  bold,  but  illiterate 
and  fanciful  seaman,  was  fortunate  in  eliciting  new  facts  regarding  the 
interior  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  and  excavated  the  Sphinx.  In  the  same  year 
Belzoni  thoroughly  explored  the  interior  of  the  Second  Pyramid.  Belzoni, 
an  intelligent  explorer  and  accurate  draughtsman,  was  originally  a  monk 
at  Rome,  but  when  the  French  occupied  that  city  he  retired  to  London, 
where  he  devoted  himself  to  study  in  spite  of  many  hardships.  In  1815  he 
reached  Egypt,  where,  besides  exploring  the  pyramid,  he  discovered  the 
tomb  of  Sethos  I.  at  Thebes,  etc.  The  next  eminent  explorer  was  Sir  Gardner 
Wilkinson  in  1831.  In  1837  and  1838  Col.  Howard  Vyse  and  Mr.  Perring 
made  very  thorough  investigations  and  took  careful  measurements  which 
will  always  be  considered  authoritative.  In  1842-45  Prof.  Lep.sius,  the 
distinguished  German  Egyptologist,  made  several  very  important  discov- 
eries and  furnished  us  with  much  valuable  information.  He  found  no 
fewer  than  thirty  pyramids  which  had  been  quite   unknown   to   previous 


Consli-uction. 


PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH. 


6.  Route. 


127 


travellers.  G.  Maspero  opened  the  small  pyramids  of  Sakkara  in  1880 
and  discovered  important  inscriptions.  W.  M.  Flinders  Petr'ie  snbiected 
the  Pyramid.^  of  Gizeh  to  a  new  and  thorough  investigation  in  1881-82. 
The  Pyramids  of  Dahshur  were  examined  in  1894-95  by  De  Jlorgan:  those 
of  Lisht  in  1895  by  Gautier  and  Jdquier;  and  those  of  Abu  Roash  by  the 
Jnstitut  Franfais  in  1900-2.  Excavations  were  carried  on  by  German  ex- 
plorers at  Abu  Gnrab  in  1898-1901.  A  renewed  examination  of  the  pyra- 
mids and  tombs  of  Sakkara  was  undertaken  by  the  Egyptian  Service  det 
Antiquit^s  in  1900.  The  German  Oriental  Socieit/  (Deutsche  Orienlgesellscha/I) 
carried  on  excavations  at  Abusir  iu  1902-8,  while  Germans  and  Americans 
(and  latterly  also  Austrians)  have  been  exploring  the  Necropolis  of  Gizeh 
.since  1903.  The  excavation  of  the  Valley  or  Granite  Temple  of  Eliephren 
was  accomplished  by  the  German  Von  Sieylin  expedition  in  1909-10. 

The  pyramids  of  Gizeh  stand  upon  a  plateau )  which  extends 
about  1600  yds.  from  E.  to  W.  and  about  1300  yds.  from  N.  to  S., 
the  E.  and  N.  margins  being  precipitous  at  places.  The  pyramids 
are  built  exactly  facing  the  four  cardinal  points.  The  diagonal  of  the 
largest  pyramid  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  is  exactly  in  a  line  with  the  dia- 
gonal of  the  second  pyramid. 


•'■A.N 


:Hum™-„-^- 


r\- 


The  **  Great  Pyramid  is  called  by  the  Egyptians  'Yekhet 
Khufu\  or  the  •Glorious  Place  of  Khufu\  and  was  built  by  Kheops, 
the  Khufu  of  the  Egyptians  (p.  xcii).  The  outermost  covering 
has  now  disappeared,  except  lor  insignificant  fragments  on  the 
base  below  the  entrance.    The  length  of  each  side  (PI.  A  A)  is  now 


128   Route  6.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.     Qreat  Pyramid. 

74:6  ft.,  but  was  formerly  (PI.  B  B)  abont  756  ft. ;  the  present  per- 
pendicular height  (PI.  E  C)  is  450  ft.,  while  originally  (PI.  E  E), 
including  the  nucleus  of  rock  (PI.  FF)  at  the  bottom  and  the  apex 
(PI.  CE),  which  has  now  disappeared,  it  is  said  to  have  been  481  ft. 
The  height  of  each  sloping  side  (PL  A  C)  is  now  568  ft.  and  was  for- 
merly (PI.  B  E)  610ft.  The  angle  at  which  the  sides  rise  is  51° 60'. 
The  cubic  content  of  the  masonry,  deducting  the  foundation  of  rock 
in  the  interior,  as  well  as  the  hollow  chambers,  was  formerly  no  less 
than  3,277,000  cubic  yards  and  it  still  amounts  to  3,057,000  cubic 
yards.  In  round  numbers,  the  stupendous  structure  covers  an  area 
of  nearly  thirteen  acres.  The  material  of  which  it  is  constructed 
is  yellowish  limestone  quarried  in  the  vicinity  and  containing 
numerous  fossUs,  chiefly  nummulites  (p.  116).  The  outer  covering 
was  formed  of  blocks  of  a  finer  white  limestone,  which  was  obtained 
from  the  quarries  at  Tura  (p.  170)  and  other  parts  of  the  Moka^tam. 
Construction  of  the  Great  Pyramid.  According  to  Borchardt's  theory 
this  pyramid  was  not  built  on  a  single  homogeneous  plan  (p.  126).  It 
was  originally  designed  to  contain  only  one  sloping  corridor  hewn  in  the 
rocky  ground  (ar)  and  leading  through  an  antechamber  (t)  to  the  tomb- 
chamber  (t).  But  before  this  design  was  completely  carried  out  it  was 
exchanged  for  a  more  comprehensive  plan,  involving  the  construction  of 
another  chamber,  now  called  the  Queen's  Chamber  fjrj,  reached  by  the  cor- 
ridor marked  cef.  But  even  this  was  not  final,  for  Kheops  undertook 
another  and  greater  extension,  resulting  in  the  construction  of  the  Great 
Hall  (h)  and  the  King's  Chamber  (*). 

The  Ascent  of  the  Pyramid,  though  fatiguing,  is  perfectly  safe. 
The  traveller  selects  two  of  the  importunate  Beduins  (p.  124)  and 
proceeds  to  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  pyramid  where  the  ascent  usually 
begins.  Assisted  by  the  two  Beduins,  one  holding  each  hand,  and, 
if  desired,  by  a  third  (no  extra  payment)  who  pushes  behind,  the 
traveller  begins  the  ascent  of  the  steps,  which  are  each  about  3  ft. 
high.  The  strong  and  active  attendants  assist  the  traveller  to  mount 
by  pushing,  pulling ,  and  supporting  him  ,  and  will  scarcely  allow 
him  a  moment's  rest  until  the  top  is  reached.  As,  however,  the  un- 
wonted exertion  is  fatiguing,  the  traveller  should  insist  on  resting 
as  often  as  he  feels  inclined.  '  Vskut  walla  ma  fish  bakshish'  (be  quiet, 
or  you  shall  have  no  fee)  is  a  sentence  which  may  often  be  em- 
ployed with  advantage.  All  requests  for  bakshish  should  be  refused, 
and  it  is  as  well  to  keep  an  eye  upon  one's  pockets.  —  The  ascent 
may  be  made  in  10-15  min.  but,  in  hot  weather  especially,  the 
traveller  is  recommended  to  take  nearly  double  that  time,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  discomfort  of  arriving  breathless  and  heated  at  the 
summit.  The  space  at  the  top  at  present  is  about  12  yds.  square, 
80  that  there  is  abundant  room  for  a  large  party  of  visitors. 

The  **ViEW  is  remarkably  interesting  and  striking.  There  is 
perhaps  no  other  prospect  in  the  world  in  which  life  and  death, 
fertility  and  desolation,  are  seen  in  so  close  juxtaposition  and  in 
such  marked  contrast.  To  the  W.,  S.,  and  N.W.  extend  yellowish 
brown  tracts  of  sand,  interspersed  with  barren  cliffs.    The  huge 


Great  Pyramid,      PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.         6.  Route.    129 

and  colourless  mouuments  erected  here  by  the  hand  of  man  remind 
the  spectator,  like  the  desert  itself,  of  death  and  eternity.  On 
a  bare  plateau  of  rock  stand  the  other  pyramids,  while  the  Sphinx 
reposes  majestically  on  the  sand.  The  arrangement  of  the  extensive 
burial-ground  with  its  various  streets  of  tombs  is  plainly  seen. 
To  the  S.,  in  the  distance,  rise  the  pyramids  of  Abusir,  Sakkara, 
and  Dahshur.  To  the  N.  are  the  palm -groves  of  Kerdaseh  and 
the  flelds  of  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  Towards  the  E.,  on  the  other 
hand,  glitters  the  river,  on  each  bank  of  which  stretches  a  tract  of 
rich  arable  land,  luxuriantly  clothed  with  blue-green  vegetation 
and  varying  in  breadth.  The  flelds  are  intersected  in  every  direction 
by  canals,  on  the  banks  of  which  stately  palms  wave  their  flexible 
fan-like  leaves.  lu  the  direction  of  Cairo  runs  the  long  straight 
carriage-road.  Immediately  before  us  rises  the  Citadel  with  its 
striking  minarets,  while  the  Mokattam  hills,  which  form  the  chief 
mass  of  colour  in  the  landscape,  gleam  in  the  morning  with  a  pale 
golden  tint  and  in  the  evening  with  a  violet  hue. 

The  descent  of  the  Great  Pyramid  is  hardly  less  fatiguing  than 
the  ascent.  Persons  liable  to  giddiness  may  flnd  it  a  little  trying, 
but  the  help  of  the  Beduins  removes  all  danger. 

Intbrioe  (comp.  Plan,  p.  127].  A  visit  to  the  interior  of  the 
Great  Pyramid  is  comparatively  uninteresting  to  the  ordinary  tourist. 
It  will  be  found  fatiguing,  and  an  interval  of  rest  between  the  ascent 
and  this  expedition  is  recommended.  Travellers  who  are  in  the 
slightest  degree  predisposed  to  apoplectic  or  fainting  flts  and  ladies 
travelling  alone  should  not  attempt  to  penetrate  into  these  stifling 
recesses.  The  explorer  has  to  crawl  and  clamber  through  low  and 
narrow  passages,  which,  at  places,  especially  near  the  entrance,  are 
not  above  3'/2  ft-  high  and  4  ft.  wide.  The  floor  is  often  very  slippery, 
and  the  close  air  smells  strongly  of  bats.  The  temperature  of  the 
interior  is  nearly  79°  Fahr.  The  attempts  of  the  guides  to  goad  the 
visitor  into  inconvenient  hurry  should  be  disregarded. 

The  Entrance  (PL  a)  is  on  the  N.  side  (as  in  all  pyramids),  on 
the  thirteenth  tier  of  stones,  at  a  perpendicular  height  of  49  ft.  from 
the  ground.  The  long  passage  a  r,  which  is  only  3  ft.  4  in.  in  width 
and  3  ft.  11  in.  in  height,  descends  in  a  straight  direction  at  an 
angle  of  26°  41',  and  is  altogether  106'/>yd3.  in  length.  "We  follow 
this  passage  as  far  as  the  point  d  only,  20  yds.  from  the  entrance,  the 
end  being  filled  up.  Here  diverges  the  ascending  passage  d  e,  the 
lower  end  of  which  is  filled  with  massive  blocks  of  granite,  placed  in 
position  after  the  interment  of  the  mummy  to  protect  the  grave  from 
robbers.  The  hardness  of  the  material  of  which  this  barrier  consists 
compelled  treasure -hunters  (p.  126)  to  avoid  it  and  to  force  a 
new  passage  (PI,  d)  through  the  softer  limestone.  This  is  the  roughest 
and  most  awkward  spot  on  the  whole  route.  Beyond  the  granite 
blocks  we  enter  the  passage  (PL  de),  41  yds.  in  length,  with  a  very 
slippery  floor,  beyond  which  lies  the  Great  Hall  (PL  h). 


130    Route  6.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.     Great  Pyramid. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  entrance  to  the  latter  a  formerly  con- 
cealed opening  in  the  pavement  gives  access  to  the  horizontal  passage  «/, 
which  terminates  in  the  so-called  Chamber  of  the  Queen  (PI.  g).  This 
passage  is  at  first  3  ft.  9  in.  only  in  height,  but  at  a  distance  of  6V2  yds. 
from  the  chamber  the  paving  has  been  removed  so  that  the  height  increases 
to  5  ft.  8  inches.  The  N.  and  S.  sides  of  the  chamber  are  each  17  ft.  in 
length,  and  the  E.  and  W.  sides  18  ft.  10  inches.  The  height  is  20  ft.  4  in., 
including  the  pointed  roof,  which  rises  51/2  ft.  above  the  top  of  the  walls 
and  consists  of  enormous  blocks  with  their  ends  sunk  into  the  surrounding 
masonry. 

The  jointing  and  polish  of  the  fine-grained  Mokattam  limestone 
in  the  Great  Hall  (PI.  K)  form  an  unsurpassable  marvel  of  skilful 
masonry,  of  which  the  Arab  historian  'Abdellatif  accurately  re- 
marks, that  neither  a  needle  nor  even  a  hair  can  be  inserted  into  the 
joints  of  the  stones.  The  Great  Hall  is  28  ft.  high  and  155  ft.  long. 
The  lower  part  is  3  ft.  4  in.  in  width;  and  the  upper  part,  above 
the  stone  ramps  on  each  side,  which  are  1  ft.  8  in.  thick  and  2  ft. 
high,  is  68/4  ft.  in  width.  The  roof  is  formed  of  seven  courses  of 
stone  projecting  one  above  the  other  and  crowned  by  horizontal 
slabs.  The  incisions  on  the  walls  were  used  to  facilitate  the  intro- 
duction of  the  sarcophagus.  On  the  smooth  floor  are  irregularly  hewn 
hollows,  which  now  serve  to  prevent  the  visitor  from  slipping.  At 
the  end  of  the  Great  Hall  is  a  small  horizontal  passage,  22  ft.  long 
and  3  ft.  8  in.  high,  expanding  about  the  middle  into  an  Antecham- 
ber (PI.  i),  which  was  once  closed  by  four  trap-doors  of  granite.  The 
remains  of  one  of  these  slabs,  in  its  pendent  position,  should  be 
noticed.  We  next  enter  the  Tomb  Chamber  proper,  commonly  called 
the  King's  Chamber  (PI.  fe).  The  N.  and  S.  sides  are  each  17  ft.  in 
length,  the  E.  and  "W.  sides  341/2  ft.,  and  the  height  is  19  ft. ;  the 
floor  of  the  chamber  is  1391/2  ft.  above  the  plateau  on  which  the 
Pyramid  stands.  The  chamber  is  entirely  lined  with  granite  and 
is  roofed  with  nine  enormous  slabs  of  granite,  each  I81/2  ft.  in 
length,  above  which  five  chambers  (I,  m,  n,  0,  p)  have  been  formed, 
which  may  be  reached  from  the  Hall  h  by  means  of  ladders. 

In  constructing  these  hollow  chambers  the  over-cautious  builders  made 
an  error  in  their  calculations ,  for  as  a  matter  of  fact  the  uppermost 
chamber  by  itself  would  have  been  sufficient  to  prevent  the  roof  of  the 
King's  Chamber  being  crushed  by  the  superincumbent  weight.  The  name 
of  Kheops  was  found  in  the  two  highest  chambers  (PI.  0,  p). 

The  King's  Chamber  now  contains  nothing  but  an  empty  and 
mutilated  Sarcophagus  of  granite,  bearing  no  trace  of  an  inscription, 
the  lid  of  which  had  disappeared  before  the  time  of  the  French 
expedition  (p.  126).  The  sarcophagus  is  772  ft-  long,  3  ft.  3  in. 
wide,  and  3  ft.  4  in.  high.  The  very  massive  sides  ring  with  a  clear 
tone  when  struck.  Curiously  enough,  the  King's  Chamber  does  not 
lie  exactly  in  a  line  with  the  diagonal  of  the  Pyramid  but  is  16  ft. 
4  in.  to  the  S.  of  it. 

The  Air  Shafts  (PI.  G,  ii),  the  ends  of  which  are  seen  about 
3  ft.  above  the  floor  of  the  chamber,  were  perhaps  constructed  from 
religions  motives.    They  are  about  6  in.  in  height  and  8  in.  in  width 


Second  Pyramid.      PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.       6.  Route.    131 

only,  expandin  by  a  iw  i.  cLes  at  the  outer  extremities.  The  N. 
shaft  is  233  ft.,  and  the  S  shaft  174  ft.  long. 

We  now  retrace  our  steps  and,  on  emerging  from  these  awe 
inspiring  recesses,  hail  the  light  and  air  with  no  little  satisfaction. 

The  other  chambers  as  yet  discovered  in  the  interior  of  the  Great 
Pyramid  are  inaccessible.  The  first  passage  a  b  r,  which  is  blocked  at  b, 
leads  downwards  in  a  straight  line,  293  ft.  in  length,  and  terminates  in  a 
horizontal  corridor,  27ft.  in  length,  3ft.  in  height,  and  2ft.  in  width, 
which  leads  to  the  unfinished  subterranean  chamber  s,  hewn  in  the  rock. 
The  E.  and  W.  sides  of  this  chamber  are  each  46  ft.  in  length,  the  N. 
and  S.  sides  27  ft.,  and  the  height  IOV2  ft.  It  does  not  lie  in  a  line 
with  the  diagonal  of  the  Pyramid  and  its  floor  is  101 V2  ft.  below  the 
level  on  which  the  Pyramid  is  built.  The  subterranean  horizontal  pass- 
age t,  60  ft.  long,  ends  in  a  cul-de-sac.  The  statement  of  Herodotus,  that 
the  subterranean  chamber  planned  by  Kheops  for  the  reception  of  his 
body  was  surrounded  by  a  canal  conducted  hither  from  the  Nile,  is  er- 
roneous, as  the  chamber  lies  above  the  highest  level  of  the  overflow  of 
the  river,  and  it  has,  moreover,  been  ascertained  that  no  channel  from  the 
river  ever  led  in  this  direction.  —  From  the  lower  end  of  the  Great  Hall 
a  shaft,  discovered  by  Davison  in  1763,  descends  to  the  lower  passage. 
The  enterprising  Caviglia  (p.  126)  found  that  it  terminated  in  the  passage  (r) 
leading  to  the  subterranean  chamber  (s).  To  all  appearance  it  was  bored 
through  the  masonry  after  the  latter  had  been  finished. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Pyramid  stood  the  Temple  for  the  worship  of 
the  deceased  (p.  clxixl,  such  as  was  erected  in  the  case  of  every 
pyramid.  Nothing  of  this  now  exists,  however,  except  some  rem- 
nants of  the  basaltic  pavement.  The  neighbouring  depressions  known 
as  'mortar-pits'  (marked  m  on  the  Plan  at  p.  123)  are  natural  clefts 
in  the  rock,  some  of  which  have  been  lined  with  slabs  of  stone.  — 
On  the  E.  side  lie  also  Three  Small  Pyramids  intended  for  relatives 
of  the  king.  The  middle  one  of  these  (I  on  the  Map)  is  said  by 
Herodotus  to  have  been  the  tomb  of  a  daughter  of  Kheops.  That  to 
the  S.,  according  to  an  inscription  in  the  Museum  of  Cairo,  likewise 
belonged  to  a  daughter  of  Kheops,  named  Henwetsen.  —  At  the  E. 
base  of  the  small  pyramid  to  the  S,  lies  a  small  Sanctuary  of  Jsis 
(0  on  the  Map),  the  'mistress  of  the  Pyramid',  which  was  erected  by 
King  Psusennes  (21st  Dyn.).  It  is  in  a  very  ruinous  condition, 
nothing  remaining  except  a  few  stumps  of  columns. 

The  Second  Pyramid,  called  by  the  Egyptians  Wer-Khefre 
('■Great  is  KhefrT).  was  erected  by  Khefre,  who  was  called  Khephren 
by  the  Greeks  (p.  xcix).  Owing  to  the  greater  height  of  the  rocky 
plateau  on  which  it  stands,  it  appears  higher  than  its  larger  neigh- 
bour. The  perpendicular  height  of  this  Pyramid  is  now  4471/2  ft. 
(originally  471  ft.),  each  side  of  the  base  measures  69O1/2  ft-  (ori- 
ginally 7073/4  ft.),  and  the  height  of  each  sloping  side  is  563^2  ft- 
(originally  5721/2  ft.),  while  the  sides  rise  at  an  angle  of  52°20'. 
The  solid  content  of  the  masonry  is  now  2,156,960  cubic  yds.,  equi- 
valent to  4,883,000  tons  in  weight  (originally  2,426,710  cub.  yds., 
equivalent  to  5,309,000  tons).  As  the  rocky  site  rises  towards  the 
AV.  and  N.,  a  considerable  part  of  it  required  to  be  removed  in  or- 
der that  a  level  surface  might  be  obtained  (see  p,  187),  while  the 


132   Boute  6.         PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.     Second  Pyramid. 

E.  side  of  the  plateau  was  artificially  extended  by  a  terrace-wall  of 
enormous  blocks  of  stone.  To  the  E.  lies  the  Mortuary  Temple,  the 
various  chambers  of  which  may  be  distinctly  traced  in  spite  of  its 
ruinous  condition.  Like  all  these  pyramid  temples  it  consisted  of 
two  distinct  principal  portions,  the  public  temple  and  the  reserved 
sanctuary.  The  main  chamber  of  the  public  temple  was  a  large  open 
court,  surrounded  by  a  passage  like  the  cloisters  of  a  mediaeval  mon- 
astery and  embellished  with  colossal  statues  of  the  king.  This 
was  the  scene  of  the  great  funeral  festivals.  The  causeway  ascending 
to  it  from  the  valley,  the  monumental  entrance  to  which  was  formed 
by  the  so-called  'Granite  Temple'  (p.  135) ,  is  still  traceable.  To 
theS.,  within  the  wall  that  surrounded  this  pyramid,  stood  another 
small  pyramid,  now  almost  level  with  the  ground,  in  which  the 
queen  was  buried.  —  The  incrustation  of  the  Second  Pyramid,  of 
which  a  considerable  part  still  remains  at  the  top,  consisted  of 
limestone  slabs  in  the  upper  courses  and  of  partially  unpolished 
granite  slabs  in  the  two  lower  (well  preserved  on  the  W.  side). 


The  merit  of  having  opened  this  pyramid  belongs  to  Belzoni  (p.  126). 
An  inscription  over  the  entrance  records  that  the  opening  took 
place  on  March  2nd,  1818. 

The  plan  of  the  Second  Pyramid  also  appears  to  have  been  altered 
in  the  course  of  building.  The  original  intention  seems  to  have  been  to 
erect  a  small  pyramid  over  the  subterranean  chamber.  Afterwards  a  larger 
pyramid  was  decided  upon  and  the  chamber  moved  towards  the  S.,  to 
its  present  position. 

The  Interior  is  thus  entered  by  two  passages,  both  on  the  N.  side. 
The  mouth  of  one  of  these,  blocked  up  on  the  abafldonment  of  the  first 


Third  Pyramid.       PYRAMIDS  OF  gIzEH,        6.  Route.    133 

plan,  is  in  the  level  surface  in  front  of  the  Pyramid  and  was  concealed 
by  the  pavement  (PI.  d);  that  of  the  other,  which  still  forms  the  entrance 
to  the  pyramid,  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Pyramid  itself,  and  is  now  38  ft., 
bnt  formerly  49  ft.,  above  the  level  of  the  ground  (PI.  a).  This  Upper  Passage, 
which  was  lined  with  granite  at  the  beginning,  descends  at  an  angle  of 
25°  55'  for  105  ft.  (PI.  a  b)  and  then  leads  as  a  horizontal  corridor  (PI.  b  g  c) 
to  'Belzoni's  Chamber',  which  once  contained  the  tomb  of  the  deceased, 
situated  3  ft.  10  in.  to  the  R.  of  the  diagonal  of  the  Pyramid.  This  cham- 
ber is  hewn  in  the  rock  and  roofed  with  painted  slabs  of  limestone, 
placed  obliquely  at  the  same  angle  as  the  sides  of  the  pyramid.  It  is 
221/2  ft.  in  height,  46V2  ft.  in  length  from  E.  to  W.,  and  16'/3  ft.  in  width 
from  N.  to  .'^.  Belzoni  here  found  a  granite  sarcophagus  let  into  the 
ground  and  filled  with  rubbish,  3  ft.  in  height,  6  ft.  7  in.  in  length, 
and  31/2  ft.  in  width,  and  destitute  of  inscription.  The  lid  was  broken.  — 
The  Lower  Passage  (PI.  d)  descends  at  first  at  an  angle  of  21°  40',  reaches 
a  trap-door  (PI.  e1,  runs  in  a  horizontal  direction  for  59  ft.  (PI.  «/),  and 
then  ascends,  terminating,  after  a  distance  of  97  ft.  in  all  (PI.  g),  in  the 
horizontal  corridor  leading  to  Belzoni's  Chamber.  This  ascending  passage 
was  perhaps  made  to  permit  the  introduction  of  a  broad  trap-door  of 
granite  and  to  permit  of  the  transportation  of  the  coffin  from  the  old  to 
the  new  tomb-chamber.  On  the  E.  (left)  side  of  the  middle  of  the  horizontal 
portion  of  this  lower  passage  was  introduced  a  small  recess,  and  on  the 
W.  side  is  a  steep  passage,  22  ft.  in  length,  descending  to  a  chamber 
(PI.  h)  hewn  in  the  rock,  8  ft.  5  in.  in  height,  34  ft.  3  in.  in  length,  and 
10  ft.  4  in.  in  width.  This  chamber  was  originally  designed  to  receive  the 
sarcophagus,  but  was  never  used. 

The  Third  Pyramid,  named  by  the  Egyptians  Neter- Menkewre 
('Divine  is  Menkewre^),  was  erected  by  Menkewre,  the  Mykerinos  of 
Herodotus  and  the  Mencherea  of  Manetho  (p.  xcix).  Its  present  per- 
pendicular height  (PL  B  B,  p.  134)  is  204  ft.,  its  former  height  (B  C) 
was  218  ft. ;  the  side  of  the  base  (A  A)  is  356'/2  ft. ;  the  present  height 
(AB)  of  the  sloping  sides  is  2633/4  ft.,  being  originally  (A  C)  2793/4  ft. , 
these  rise  at  an  angle  of  51°.  The  upper  part  of  the  incrustation  of 
the  pyramid  was  formed  of  limestone  blocks,  the  lower  part  of  granite, 
left  partly  unsmoothed.  The  granite  covering  is  in  good  preservation, 
especially  on  the  N.  and  W.  sides.  On  the  E.  side  lie  the  ruins  of 
the  customary  mortuary  temple,  laid  bare  during  the  American  ex- 
cavations of  1907  under  Dr.  Reisner  and ,  as  usual ,  approached 
from  the  valley  by  a  still  recognizable  causeway,  beginning  with  a 
so-called  valley-temple,  a  smaller  sanctuary  built  of  brick. 

The  Interior  is  reached  only  with  difficulty.  The  entrance  is  on  the  N. 
side.  A  passage  a  c  descends  at  an  angle  of  26°  2'  for  a  distance  of  IO41/2  ft., 
being  lined  with  red  granite  where  it  passes  through  the  masonry  from  a 
to  6  and  then  penetrating  the  solid  rock  from  6  to  c.  From  c  a  horizontal 
passage  cd  leads  to  an  antechamber/,  7  ft.  in  height,  12  ft.  in  length,  10  ft. 
in  width,  and  decorated  with  door-shaped  ornaments.  Beyond  this  cham- 
ber it  passes  three  trap-doors  g.  descends  slightly  from  h  io  d  (gradient  4°), 
a  distance  of  41'/2  ft.,  and  finally  descends  to  the  chamber  e,  in  a  cavity 
in  which  the  sarcophagus  of  the  king  seems  to  have  originally  stood 
(comp.  p.  134).  This  chamber  is  44V2  ft.  long,  12'/?  ft.  broad,  and,  owing 
to  the  unevenness  of  the  rock,  from  which  the  pavement  has  been  removed, 
varies  from  13  ft.  to  13  ft.  5  in.  in  height. 

In  the  pavement  of  the  chamber  e  is  the  mouth  (formerly  covered)  of 
a  shaft  30  ft.  in  length,  which  has  a  fine  granite  lining  at  its  upper  end 
and  could  be  closed  by  a  trap-dour  at  its  lower  end.  It  is  continued  by 
a  horizontal   shaft,  10  ft.  in  length,   to  the  granite  Tomb  Chamber  (PI.  i). 


134    Route  6.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.      Third  Pyramid. 

Immediately  before  the  latter  is  reached  a,  flight  of  seven  steps  leads  to 
the  right  to  a  chamber  with  recesses  on  the  right  and  back  walls.  The 
tomb-chamber  is  paved  with  blocks  of  granite,  21/2  ft.  in  thickness,  and 
its  ceiling  has  been  formed  by  placing  the  stones  against  each  other  at  an 
angle  so  as  to  resemble  a  roof  and  then  hollowing  them  ont  on  the  inside 
in  the  form  of  a  Gothic  arch.  The  richly  decorated  sarcophagas  of  Men- 
kewre  was  found  here  by  Col.  Vyse  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  It 
was  made  of  basalt  and  measured  externally  2  ft.  7  in.  in  height.  The 
lid  was  gone.  Fragments  of  the  inner  wooden  coffin  and  of  the  royal 
mummy  (now  in  the  British  Museum)  were  found  in  the  chamber  e. 
The  vessel  in  which  the  sarcophagus  was  being  conveyed  to  England 
was  unfortunately  lost  off  the  coast  of  Spain. 


IfTfirnh^c^t^x^nil^^ 


The  original  intention  of  the  builder  was  to  construct  a  pyramid  on 
a  small  scale,  containing  only  the  sloping  corridor  I  k,  leading  to  a  cham- 
ber at  e,  smaller  than  that  now  existing.  But  when  a  larger  pyramid  was 
projected  the  corridor  abed  was  formed,  leading  first  to  an  antechamber 
and  then  to  a  tomb-chamber  at  «,  enlarged  by  deepening  the  earlier 
chamber  at  that  point.  Under  the  New  Empire  the  interior  of  the  pyramid 
was  ruined  by  the  forcible  entry  of  treasure-seekers  -,  but  probably  during 
the  Saite  period  a  restoration  took  place.  To  this  restoration  are  due  the 
sloping  shaft  and  the  granite  chamber  (i)  in  which  the  stone  sarcophagus 
of  Menkewre  was  concealed,  as  well  as  the  lower-lying  room  with  the 
recesses. 

The  Second  and  Third  Pyramids  are  most  conveniently  visited  in 
the  conrse  of  the  circuit  of  the  Pyramid  plateau  mentioned  at  p.  137. 
After  inspecting  the  Great  Pyramid  visitors  usually  proceed  along 
its  E.  side  to  the  Sphinx,  which  rises  from  amidst  the  sand  of  the 
desert  about  350  yds.  to  the  S.E. 


The  Sphinx.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.         6.  Route.    135 

The  **Sphinx,  which  next  to  the  Pyramids  themselves  is  the 
most  famous  monument  in  this  vast  burial-ground,  is  hewn  out  of 
the  natural  rock  and,  with  some  aid  from  added  blocks  of  stone,  has 
been  moulded  into  the  shape  of  a  recumbent  lion  with  the  head  of 
a  king  wearing  the  royal  head-cloth,  adorned  with  the  royal  serpent. 
Originally  it  was  probably  a  natural  rock  which  from  a  distance 
somewhat  resembled  a  lion.  It  was  no  doubt  the  workmen  engaged 
in  building  the  tomb  of  Khephren  who  improved  this  resemblance 
with  the  help  of  blocks  of  stone  and  carved  the  face  in  the  likeness 
of  Khephren.  Afterwards  it  was  taken  for  the  sun-god  and  named 
Harmachii  (i.e.  'Horus  on  the  horizon').  In  front  of  the  breast 
was  once  an  image  of  a  god.  The  head  is  now  deplorably  mutilated; 
the  neck  has  become  too  thin,  the  nose  and  beard  have  been  broken 
off,  and  the  reddish  tint  which  enlivened  the  face  has  almost  dis- 
appeared. But  in  spite  of  all  injuries  it  preserves  eyen  now  an 
impressive  expression  of  strength  and  majesty.  The  entire  height 
of  the  monument,  from  the  pavement  to  the  crown  of  the  head,  is 
said  to  be  66  ft.,  -while  its  length  from  the  fore-paws  to  the  root 
of  the  tail  is  187  ft.  The  ear,  according  to  Mariette,  is  4'/2  ft.,  the 
nose  5  ft.  7  in.,  and  the  mouth  7  ft.  7  in.  in  length;  and  the  extreme 
breadth  of  the  face  is  13  ft.  8  inches.  If  the  traveller  stands  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  ear  he  cannot  stretch  his  hand  as  far  as  the  crown 
0  f  the  head.    There  is  a  hollow  in  the  head. 

Tht  Excavation  of  the  Sphinx,  so  far  as  is  now  known,  was  first  under- 
taken by  Thutmosis  IV.  (see  below).  During  the  Ptolemaic  and  Roman 
periods  the  colossus  was  several  times  restored  and  was  highly  admired 
und  revered,  as  numerous  inscriptions  upon  it  testify.  Curiously  enough, 
the  Sphinx  was  mentioned  neither  by  Herodotus  nor  by  any  later  Greek 
traveller.  The  mutilations  which  now  disfigure  it  date  from  the  Arab 
domination.  In  1380  it  fell  a  victim  to  the  iconoclastic  zeal  of  a  fanatic 
sheikh,  and  it  was  afterwards  used  as  a  target  by  the  barbarous  Mamelnkes. 
—  In  the  19th  century  the  Sphinx  was  first  completely  excavated  by  Caviglia 
(p.  126),  at  the  cost  (450/.)  of  an  English  society.  He  discovered  the  flight 
iif  steps  which  ascended  to  the  stupendous  monament,  and  also  found  be- 
tween the  paws  of  the  lion  a  carefully  laid  pavement,  at  the  end  of  which 
next  to  the  breast  of  the  Sphinx  rose  a  kind  of  open  temple.  The  latter 
was  enclosed  by  two  partitions,  through  which  ran  a  passage,  in  the  middle 
of  which  was  a  small  figure  of  a  recumbent  lion,  facing  the  Sphinx.  In  the 
background  and  at  each  side  were  memorial  stones  erected  by  Thntmosis  IV. 
and  Kamses  II.  The  Sphinx  was  again  excavated  by  Mcupero  in  1886.  At 
present,  however,  the  Sphinx  is  much  sanded  up  so  that  the  above- 
mentioned  structures  are  no  longer  visible. 

About  50  yds.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Sphinx  lies  the  large  *ValIey 
Temple  of  Khephren,  long  known  as  the  'Gkanitk  Temple',  dis- 
covered by  Mariette  in  1853  and  almost  completely  excavated  by 
the  Von  Sieglin  expedition  in  1909-10.  This  was  the  sanctuary 
erected  as  an  entrance  to  the  causeway  which  ascended  from  the 
valley  to  the  mortuary  temple  and  pyramid  of  Khephren.  It  is  a 
fine  example  of  the  simple  and  majestic  architecture  of  a  period 
when  the  art  of  working  the  hardest  kinds  of  stone  had  already 
attained  perfection. 


136   Route  6.        PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.  Khephren's  Temple. 

The  total  structure  is  147  ft.  square  aud  43  ft.  in  height;  exter- 
nally the  walls  batter.  The  faijade,  on  the  E.  side,  was  pierced  by 
two  huge  portals  (now  closed),  surrounded  by  monumental  royal 
inscriptions.  The  present  entrance  is  from  the  ancient  Causeway 
(PI.  a).  We  descend  the  corridor  (PI.  b)  to  the  Antechamber  (PI.  c), 
constructed  of  red  granite,  in  which  the  passages  leading  from  the 
two  portals  unite.  Here  is  also  the  well  (PL  dj,  now  full  of  water, 
In  which  Marlette  found  the  famous  statue  of  Khephren  now  in 


5      L 


the  museum  at  Cairo  (p.  83).  We  return  through  the  large  door- 
way in  the  central  axis  of  the  building  into  the  main  Hypoityle 
Hall  (PI.  f),  which  is  shaped  like  an  inverted  T,  the  main  arm  being 
57  ft.  long  and  2972  ft-  broad,  and  the  cross  arm  82  ft.  long  and 
23  ft.  broad.  Sixteen  monolithic  granite  pillars  divide  the  main 
arm  into  three  aisles,  the  cross  arm  into  two.  The  stone  beams  of 
the  architrave  still  preserve  their  sharp  edges.  These  rooms  were 
lighted  by  means  of  smaU  oblique  openings,  still  to  be  seen  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  side-walls.  Against  the  walls  originally  stood  23 
colossal  royal  statues,  the  bases  of  which  have  left  rectangular  marks 
on  the  pavement.  Several  of  these  statues  are  now  in  Cairo.  — 
From  the  S.W.  angle  of  the  hypostyle  hall  a  dark  passage  leads  to  a 
group  of  Storerooms  (PI.  g),  arranged  in  two  stories  with  three  rooms 
in  each.  Thence  we  return  to  the  entrance-corridor  (PI.  b),  quit  it 
by  a  door  on  the  left,  and  follow  a  short  oblique  passage  to  the  Porter's 
Room  (PI.  h),  which  is  constructed  of  slabs  of  alabaster.  To  the 
right  In  the  corridor  is  the  entrance  to  an  Inclined  Plane  (PI.  i), 
which  turns  twice  at  a  right  angle  and  leads  to  the  Roof  of  the 
temple.  The  pavement  and  walls  of  this  plane  are  likewise  con- 
structed of  alabaster. 


Circuit.  PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.  6.  Route.   137 

Between  the  Valley  Temple  and  the  Sphinx  is  a  series  of  brick 
walls,  of  the  Ptolemaic  or  the  Roman  period,  intended  to  protect  the 
Sphinx  from  the  shifting  sand. 

The  tomhs  surrounding  the  different  pyramids,  where  the  rela- 
tives and  state-officials  of  the  kings  and  also  the  priests  and  officials 
of  the  various  mortuary  temples  of  the  necropolis  were  interred,  are 
far  inferior  in  interest  to  the  tomhs  that  have  been  excavated  and 
rendered  accessible  at  Sakkara  (p.  149).  Yet  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  laid  out  in  streets  and  lanes,  especially  in  the  area  to  the 
W.  of  the  Great  Pyramid  (recently  excavated  by  German,  Austrian, 
and  American  explorers),  affords  the  best  extant  picture  of  an  Egyp- 
tian necropolis.  The  so-called  Tomb  of  Numbers  (p.  139)  and 
Campbell's  Tomb  (p.  138)  are  nsually  visited  also. 

Travellers  who  are  not  pressed  for  time  and  who  desire  to  ob- 
tain a  closer  view  of  the  Second  and  Third  Pyramids  are  recom- 
mended to  make  the  following  *Circuit  of  the  Pyramid  Plateau 
(comp.  p.  123). 

After  having  inspected  the  Great  Pyramid  (p.  127),  we  turn 
(following  the  dotted  line  on  the  Plan,  p.  123)  to  the  left  (W.)  of 
the  entrance  and  descend  as  far  as  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Pyramid, 
where  the  levelled  space  on  the  ground  (b  on  the  Plan),  intended 
for  the  reception  of  the  corner-stone,  has  been  exposed  to  view. 
Towards  the  W.  and  S.W.  lie  numerous  mastaba-tomhs  presenting 
an  impressive  appearance. 

Those,  however,  who  are  not  deterred  by  difficulty  will  find  the  tomb 
(6th  Dyn.)  of  Shtpiet-kef-onekh  and  his  son  Itneri,  almost  due  N.  of  the 
Second  Pyramid,  the  least  inconvenient.  This  tomb,  called  by  the  Beduins 
Turha  Lepsius  {i.e.  Lepsius's  Tomb),  is  half- buried  in  sand,  and  visitors 
have  to  crawl  through  the  low  entrance  in  order  to  reach  the  long 
vaulted  corridor,  which  is  covered  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions.  —  The 
beautiful  tomb  of  Nefer-bew-Ptah  (PI.  c),  a  grandson  of  Shepses-kef-onekh, 
lies  to  the  left  (S.),  but  is  unfortunately  quite  buried. 

We  now  skirt  the  N.  and  "W.  sides  of  the  vast  necropolis,  and 
reach  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  rocky  enclosure  of  the  court  of  the 
Second  Pyramid.  A  natural  cleft  in  the  rock  (PI.  d)  here  facilitates 
our  descent  from  the  top  of  the  rock,  which  is  over  16  ft,  in  height. 
At  the  foot  of  it  we  reach  the  levelled  plateau  prepared  for  this 
pyramid  (p.  131).  On  the  surface  are  a  number  of  regularly  arranged 
square  incisions,  separated  from  each  other  by  furrows  about  2  ft. 
wide.  These  date  from  the  quarrying  operations  (comp.  p.  356) 
carried  on  here  during  the  building  of  the  pyramid. 

On  the  rock  above  is  an  inscription  in  honour  of  Mei,  chief  architect 
la  the  temple  called  'Ramses  II.  shines  in  the  Great  House  of  the  Prince" 
(*.«.  Heliopolis)  and  son  of  Bek-en-Amun,  chief  architect  of  Thebes.  In  the 
reign  of  Ramses  11.  Mei  systematically  demolished  the  temple  ofKhephren 
or  part  of  the  facing  of  the  pyramid  to  obtain  materials  for  building  a 
temple  at  Heliopolis. 

On  theE.  side  of  the  Pyramid  are  remains  of  the  mortuary  temple 


138   Route  6.        PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEH.     Campbell's  Tomb. 

connected  with  it  (p.  132).  We  follow  the  W.  side  of  the  Pyramid. 
On  the  rock  to  the  right  is  another  hieroglyphic  inscription  (PI.  /") 
by  the  above-mentioned  Me'i ,  near  which  are  several  rock-tombs. 
One  of  these  (PI.  ^),  that  ot  Neb-em-yekhet,  nearly  opposite  the 
S.W.  angle  of  the  Pyramid,  has  a  fine  ceiling  hewn  in  the  rock  in 
imitation  of  palm-stems. 

Our  route  now  leads  towards  the  S.W.  to  the  Third  Pyramid 
(p.  133).  To  the  S.  of  it  stand  three  small  Pyramids,  belonging  to 
near  relatives  of  King  Mykerinos. 

We  now  turn  to  the  remains  of  the  mortuary  temple  to  the  E.  of 
the  Third  Pyramid  and  descend  towards  the  E.  by  the  ancient  cause- 
way (p.  124).  Here,  on  the  left,  is  another  series  of  rock-tombs  dat- 
ing from  the  4th  and  5th  Dynasties.  Among  these  is  that  of  Tebehne 
(PI.  K),  with  several  chambers  and  recesses.  This  is  now  closed  by 
a  wooden  door  and  is  regarded  as  the  sacred  tomb  of  Sidi  Hamed 
Sam'an.  Numerous  villagers  assemble  here  on  Friday  for  religious 
exercises. 

In  the  valley  before  us.  to  the  right,  rises  a  projecting  ridge  of 
rock  containing  tombs  of  no  interest.  Adjoining  this  rock,  on  the 
left,  is  a  picturesque  Arab  cemetery.  Still  farther  to  the  E.  we  ob- 
serve the  remains  of  a  wall  (perhaps  the  ancient  town-wall),  with 
a  gateway.  —  After  passing  a  high  mound  of  debris,  consisting 
of  a  pyramidal  mass  of  masonry  on  a  projecting  rock  and  supposed  to 
be  the  remains  of  an  uncompleted  pyramid,  we  come  to  other  tombs 
on  the  left,  likewise  covered  with  sand.  Among  these  is  the  tomb 
of  Wer-khewew  (PI.  fc),  a  judge  under  the  5th  Dynasty. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  left  (N.)  to  Campbell's  Tomb,  a  family 
tomb  of  the  26th  Dyn.,  discovered  by  Col.  Vyse  in  1837  and  named 
by  him  after  Col.  Campbell,  the  British  consul-general  in  Egypt  at 
that  period.  The  upper  part,  the  mastaba  proper,  has  been  entirely 
destroyed,  and  the  shaft  (53  ft.  deep),  at  the  bottom  of  which  is 
a  tomb-chamber  vaulted  with  an  arch  having  a  span  of  11  ft.,  is  now 
uncovered.  The  sides  of  the  shaft  are  separated  from  the  surround- 
ing rock  by  a  trench,  which  is  spanned  by  bridges  of  stone  at  only  a 
few  points.  The  sarcophagus  which  stands  in  the  tomb -chamber 
contained  the  remains  of  the  royal  scribe  Pe-kop  Wah-eb-re-em- 
yekhet,  a  contemporary  of  King  Apries.  Beside  the  sarcophagus 
lies  a  stone  lid  shaped  like  a  mummy.  In  niches  in  the  S.  and  W. 
sides  of  the  shaft  are  two  other  sarcophagi ;  a  fourth  sarcophagus 
found  here  is  now  in  the  British  Museum.  All  these  sarcophagi  had 
been  opened  and  plundered.  For  a  description  of  the  similar  tombs 
from  the  Persian  period,  see  p.  166. 

We  return  past  the  Sphinx  (p.  135)  and  the  Valley  Temple  6 f 
Khephren  (p.  135)  to  the  Great  Pyramid  and  the  three  small  pyra- 
mids lying  in  front  of  it  to  the  E. 

We  may  now  proceed  to  the  E.  to  the  verge  of  the  desert-plateau, 
in  the  direction  of  the  Arab  village  of  Kafr  el-Haram,  in  order  to 


Tomh  of  Numlers.     PYRAMIDS  OF  GIZEII.      G.  Route.    139 

inspect  the  Tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  hollowed  out  in  the  rocky 
slope.  Several  of  these  are  now  used  as  dwellings  or  stables.  The 
best  known  is  the  Tomb  of  Numbers  (PI.  n),  which  belonged  to  a 
certain  Khefre-onekh,  a  courtier  of  Khephren.  On  the  left  part  of  the 
entrance-wall  appear  the  deceased  and  his  brother,  accompanied  by 
a  dog,  inspecting  the  cattle  that  are  driven  before  them  by  peasants. 
The  peasants  are  arranged  in  several  rows,  headed  by  one  bearing 
the  sunshade  of  his  master.  Scribes  are  engaged  in  recording  the 
number  of  cattle  of  each  kind,  the  numbers  being  placed  above 
the  herds  (whence  the  name  of  the  tomb).  Thus  we  are  informed 
that  Khefre-onekh  had  853  oxen,  220  cows  and  calves,  2235  goats, 
760  asses,  and  974  rams.  On  the  left  (S.)  wall  are  the  deceased 
and  his  wife  at  table.  On  the  rear  (W. )  wftU  are  five  door-shaped 
steles  with  a  statue  of  the  deceased,  to  the  left.  The  mural  reliefs, 
which  are  in  poor  preservation,  are  in  the  clumsy  and  undeveloped 
style  of  the  4th  Dynasty.  —  On  the  S.  horizon,  ca.  6  M.  distant,  rise 
the  pyramids  of  Abusir  (p.  141)  and  the  step-pyramid  of  Sakkara 
(p.  146). 

An  expedition  across  the  desert  to  the  Western  Petrified  Forest 
(Kom  el-Khashah)  is  attractive  (guide  necessary).  To  the  N.  of  the 
Mena  House  Hotel  we  strike  off  to  the  "W.  and  after  a  ride  of  3  hrs. 
across  a  sandy  valley  reach  tlie  beginning  of  the  petrified  forest, 
which  extends  as  far  as  the  Wadi  Natrun  (p.  32).  Tlie  specimens 
of  petrified  trees  here  are  much  finer  than  those  in  the  petrified 
forest  in  the  Arabian  Desert  (_pp.  118.  119). 


The  Excursion  to  the  Pyramids  of  Aku  Ro.^sh,  which  lie  5  M. 
to  the  N.  of  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeli,  takes  about  half-a-day  and  is 
most  conveniently  made  from  the  Mena  Uouse  Hotel,  where  donkeys, 
camels,  or  desert-carriages  may  be  obtained.  —  Tlie  route  leads 
through  the  desert,  skirting  the  edge  of  the  cultivated  land.  It  then 
l)ends  to  the  E.  through  fields  and  reaches  (3/4  hr.)  the  village  of 
Kerdaseh,  which  is  prettily  situated  amid  palm-groves  and  is  itself 
a  sufficient  attraction  for  an  excursion,  especially  on  Mon.,  which 
is  the  weekly  market-day.  We  then  proceed  through  palm-groves 
to  (1  hr.)  the  village  of  Abu  Roash,  with  the  tomb  of  the  saint  of 
that  name.  Here  we  again  turn  to  the  W.  across  the  desert  and 
ascend  by  the  ancient  approach  from  the  N.E.,  of  which  about  1  M. 
is  still  preserved,  to  the  ('  o  hr.l  abrupt  rocky  plateau.  On  this 
plateau  standsthelargePyramidof  Abu  Koftsh,  known  by  the  natives 
as  El-k'd'a,  the  tomb  of  the  king  Tetf-re  (4th  Dyn.).  The  pyr- 
amid itself  has  almost  entirely  disappeared,  but  we  can  look  down 
into  the  hollow  hewn  in  the  rock  which  contains  the  sepulchral 
chamber,  and  on  the  passage  descending  to  it.  The  remains  of  brick 
buildings  to  the  E.  of  the  pyramid  belong  to  the  mortuary  temple. 
Adjacent  is  the  house  of  the  French  Archaeological  Institute.  —  A 

liAKIiEKKK^     Kgypt.      7II1    Edit.  10 


140   Route  6.  ARU  GUIiAR. 

smaller  stone  pyramid  to  the  S.W.  has  been  entirely  demolished. 
The  plateau  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  Nile  valley  and  of  the 
gorges  of  the  Libyan  desert.  ■ —  There  is  a  third  pyramid,  built  of 
briclc,  in  the  plain  to  the  N.  of  the  village  of  Abu  Roash.  The  brick 
superstructure,  which  was  55  ft.  in  height  when  l.epsius  saw  it  in 
1842,  has  since  been  entirely  demolished,  and  nothing  now  remains 
but  the  rock-core  with  the  tomb-chamber. 


The  Excursion  to  the  Pybamids  of  Aisusin,  to  the  S.  of  Gizeh, 
is  interesting.  Wo  take  tlie  eli^ctric  tramway  to  the  Mena  House  Hotel 
(p.  123)  and  proceed  thence  in  IVs"*^  'ts.  on  a  donkey  (there  and 
back  10  pias.),  on  a  camel,  or  in  a  desert-carriage  (see  p.  139j.  Or  a 
donkey  may  be  taken  direct  from  Cairo  in  272  Its.,  via  the  villages  ' 
of  Gizeh,  Tirsa,  and  Shobrement;  or  the  excursion  maybe  combined  <! 
with  that  to  Sakkara  (p.  142;  comp.  Plan,  p.  143).  i 

Quitting  the  Mena  House  Hotel  we  ride  along  the  verge  of  the 
desert,  leaving  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  on  the  right.  To  the  left  is  the  . 
cultivated  country,  witli  several  villages.  After  about  1  hr.  we  have  1 
the  large  cemetery  of  the  village  of  Zdwiyet  Abu  MusaUim  on  our  , 
right.  A  low  mound  of  rubbish  on  the  summit  of  the  desert-plateau 
marks  the  site  of  tlie  stone  pyramid  of  Zdwiyet  el-' Aryan.  In  the 
desert,  about  3/^  M.  to  the  N.W.,  lies  a  second  and  Unfinished  Pyra- 
mid, known  as  ^Shugl  Iskender\  which  seems  to  iiave  been  begun 
by  King  Nebka  (3rd  Dyn.).  Tliis  has  been  excavated  by  Barsanti, 
and  plainly  sliows  the  sloping  passage  cut  in  the  rock  and  leading 
to  a  large  square  shaft,  in  which  the  tomb-chamber  was  to  have  been 
made.  Tlie  foundation  and  pavement  of  the  last  were  completed 
(both  of  red  granite),  and  in  it  stands  the  finely-worked  red  granite 
sarcophagus  of  the  king,  which  was  to  have  been  half- embedded 
in  the  pavement.  —  In  l'/2  hr.  we  reach  the  rubbish  heaps  of  Abu 
Gurab.  [Another,  somewliat  longer  route  leads  via  the  village  of 
Zdwiyet  Ahu  MusaUim,  with  a  picturesque  sheikh's  tomb.] 

Abu  GurS,b,  formerly  called  also  the  Pyramid  of  Righa,  was  ex- 
plored in  1898-1901,  on  behalf  of  the  Berlin  Museum,  by  Drs.  Bor- 
chardt  and  Schxfer.  The  building  was  a  Sanctuary  of  the  Sun 
God,  erected  by  King  Nuserre  (5th  Dyn.)  on  the  occasion  of  the 
jubilee  of  his  accession. 

The  sanctuary  stands  upon  a  low,  artificially  altered  hill  and  consists  of 
an  nncovered  court,  330  ft.  long  by  250  ft.  broad,  with  its  entrance  on  the 
E.  side,  while  in  the  posterior  (W.)  and  main  part  of  it  rose  the  large 
Obelisk  of  the  Sun.  From  the  entrance-gate  a  (once)  covered  passage,  or- 
namented with  fine  reliefs,  led  to  the  left  along  the  E.  and  S.  sides  of  the 
court,  and  then  turned  to  the  right  (N.)  to  reach  the  obeliiik.  The  obelisk 
itself  has  totally  vanished,  but  part  of  the  platform  of  masonry  on  which 
it  stood  is  still  extant;  and  the  top  of  this,  reached  by  an  internal  stair- 
case, commands  a  fine  view.  In  the  front  half  of  the  court  was  the  place 
for  slaughtering  the  sacrificial  bulls;  the  channels  or  gutters  in  the  pave- 
ment empty  themselves  into  nine  alabaster  basins  foriginally  ten).  In  front 
of  the  platform  of  the    obelisk  stands  the  Altar,    19  ft.  long,   13  ft.  broad, 


ABUSIR.  6.  Roule.    141 

and  4  ft.  liigh,  built  of  live  massive  blocks  of  alabaster.  On  the  .S.  side  of 
tbe  obelisk  is  a  mined  chapel,  which  was  embellished  with  admirable 
reliefs  (now  in  the  museums  of  Cairo  and  Herlin).  On  the  N.  side  of  the 
obelisk  was  another  sacrificial  court.  The  N.  side  of  the  court  was 
flanked  by  treasure-houses,  reached  from  the  entrance-gate  by  a  passafie 
(to  the  right)  similar  to  that  described  on  p.  140.  To  the  S.  of  the  temple 
lie  the  brick  foundation.s  of  a  boat  of  the  sun.  —  The  temple  was  conuected 
by  a  covered  cau.ieway  with  a  gateway  situated  in  the  valley  near  the 
N.E.  slope  of  the  hill. 

The  three  largest  Pyramids  of  Abusir,  erected  by  kings  of  the 
5th  Dyn.,  stand  close  together,  about  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  sanc- 
tuary of  Abu  Gurab  (comp.  the  Inset  Plan  II  at  p.  145  ).  They  were 
explored  in  1902-8  by  the  German  Oriental  Society  under  Dr.  Bor- 
chardt.  The  masonry  of  these  monuments,  having  originally  been 
constructed  with  no  great  care,  is  now  much  damaged.  The  entran- 
ces are  on  the  N.  sides,  and  the  interior  chambers  are  almost  com- 
pletely in  ruins. 

The  northernmost  of  the  pyramids  is  the  Pyr.vmid  of  King 
Sehurb.  Its  perpendicular  height  was  16'2Y4ft.  (now  118  ft.),  its 
sides  ■were  257  ft.  (now  216  ft.)  in  length,  and  they  were  inclined 
at  the  angle  of  51"  42' 35".  On  the  E.  side  of  the  pyramid  lie 
the  extensive  remains  of  the  Mortuary  Temple,  to  which  a  slightly 
sloping  causeway  ascended  from  the  small  temple  in  the  valley.  The 
long  vestibule  on  the  E.  side  of  the  temple  opens  into  a  passage, 
which  surrounds  the  following  court  on  the  E.,  N.,  and  S.  sides. 
The  large  Colonnaded  Court,  the  centre  of  the  building,  possesses 
a  well-preserved  pavement  of  black  basalt.  Fragments  of  the  sixteen 
granite  palm-cnlumns(p.  clxi ),  which  once  supported  the  roof  of  the 
colonnade  around  the  walls  of  the  court,  are  scattered  about.  The 
court  is  adjoined  by  a  Transveme  Room,  which  practically  forms  the 
W.  side  of  the  above-mentioned  passage,  and  by  a  Boom  with  Five 
Recesses,  in  which  stood  statues  of  the  king.  A  side-door  on  the  left 
admits  to  the  narrow  passages  leading  to  the  Sanctuary,  in  which,  at 
the  foot  of  the  pyramid,  stood  the  large  door-shaped  stele.  Among 
the  other  apartments  we  may  note  the  Storerooms  for  the  Sacrificial 
Offerings,  a  scries  of  two-storied  chambers  on  the  S.  side,  and  the 
two-storied  Treasuries  on  the  N.  side.  At  the  S.E.  angle  of  the 
pyramid,  in  a  separate  court  with  a  side-entrance  flanked  by  two 
tree-trunk  columns  (p.  clviii),  stands  the  small  Queen's  Pyramid. 

Next,  to  the  S. ,  is  the  Pyramid  of  Nuseree,  to  which  an  easy 
winding  path  ascends  (fine  panorama).  It,  too,  bad  a  mortuary  temple 
on  the  E.  side.  From  the  plain  a  sloping  causeway  ascends  to  the 
main  entrance  and  the  forec,oiirt,  on  each  side  of  which  lir  store- 
rooms. This  is  adjoined  by  an  open  court,  with  columns  and  a  basaltic 
pavement.  Fragments  of  the  granite  papyrus-columns  lie  scattered 
about.  The  following  chambers,  extending  to  the  N.  at  the  base  of 
the  pyramid,  are  in  a  very  ruinous  state.  To  the  N.  of  the  temple  are 
some  large  Mastabas  of  the  time  of  the  5th  Dynasty.  At  the  S.E. 
corner  of  the  pyramid   is  a  smaller  pyramid,   perhaps  that  of  the 

10* 


142    Route  6.  ABUSIR. 

queen.  —  The  builder  of  the  largest  pyramid  (sides  325.  formerly 
360ft.;  perpendicular  height  164,  formerly  2'28  ft.),  situated  a  little 
to  the  S.W.,  was  King  Nefer-er-ke-re  (6th  l)yn.).  On  the  E.  side  are 
the  remains  of  the  mortuary  temple,  built  of  freestone  and  brick.  — 
The  other  buildings,  some  of  which  were  pyramids  and  others 
sanctuaries  of  the  sun,  are  mere  heaps  of  ruins. 

A  few  paces  to  the  S.K.  of  the  Pyramid  of  Seliure  is  the  Mastaba 
of  Ptahshepses  (5th  Dyn.),  excavated  by  De  Morgan  in  1893.  It  is 
mostly  covered  up  again;  the  locked  chambers  are  opened  by  the 
keeper  of  Abusir.  We  first  enter  a  large  hall  (only  partly  excavat- 
ed), with  twenty  square  pillars.  Thence  a  door  opens  into  another 
hall,  with  three  recesses  containing  statues;  on  the  walls  are  reliefs 
of  goldsmiths  and  of  workmen  carving  statues  of  the  deceased  in 
wood  and  stone.  A  third  hall,  in  which  the  lower  parts  of  two  lotus- 
columns  with  bud-capitals,  are  still  in  situ  ( comp.  p.  83),  contains 
remains  of  fine  wall-reliefs. 

Continuing  our  route  to  Sakkara  we  leave  to  the  left  a  pond  and 
the  village  of  Abusir,  situated  beyond  a  group  of  palms  to  the  S.E.,  and 
soon  reach  the  sandy  eminences  of  the  Necropolis  of  Memphis  and  Murl- 
ette's  House  (p.  147),  'A  hr.  from  the  first  pyramid  of  Abu.sir.  At  the  village 
of  Abusir  are  the  remains  of  a  temple  of  the  Nevr  Empire. 


7.  The  Site  of  Ancient  Memphis  and  the  Necropolis 
of  Sakkara. 

A  visit  to  Memphis  and  Sakkara  may  easily  be  accomplished  in  one 
day.  Provisions  should  not  be  forgotten.  —  Tickets  admitting  to  the  mon- 
uments of  Sakkara  may  be  obtained  for  5  pias.  each  at  Marietle's  House 
(p.  147).  Travellers,  however,  who  possess  a  general  Admission  Ticket 
from  the  Service  des  Anliquilis  de  VEgypte  (p.  200)  do  not  require  these 
special  tickets.  The  custodians  are  forbidden  to  ask  for  gratuities,  but  a 
single  traveller  generally  gives  '/z,  parties  2-2'/zpias. 

The  following  arrangement  of  the  journey  will  be  found  convenient. 
Take  an  early  train  to  (I  hr. )  BedrasTiein  {Badrechein ;  fares  Ist  cl.  lt)V-'i 
2iid  cl.  S'/apias.),  where  donkeys  and  drivers  (10  pias.  there  and  back,  grat- 
uity 3-5  pias.),  camels,  and  desert-carriages  (60  pias.  there  and  back)  are  in 
waiting.  It  is  safer,  however,  to  order  a  carriage  by  telegram  addressed 
to  the  station-master.  Eide  via  the  site  of  Memphis,  where  the  "Colossi  of 
Ramses  (p.  144)  are  inspected,  and  thence ,  passing  the  "Step  Pj/ramid 
(p.  146l,  to  (ca.  2  hrs.  in  all)  Marietle's  House  (p.  147),  in  the  Necropolis  of 
Sakkara.  For  luncheon  and  a  visit  to  tlie  ""Serapeum  (p.  147)  and  the 
""Tombs  of  Ti  and  Ptahhotep  fpp.  149,  163)  4  hrs.  should  be  allowed;  and 
possibly  time  may  be  found  for  the  inspection  of  the  Onnos  Pyramid  (p.  165) 
and  the  Persian  Tombs  (p.  166)  or  for  the  "Tomb  of  Merertika  (p.  169)  and  the 
Street  of  Tombs  (p.  162).  For  returning  to  the  station  of  Bedrashein  I'/z  hr. 
more  should  be  reckoned.  —  A  highly  attractive  return  may  be  made  by 
the  route  already  described  via  Abusir  to  the  Mena  House  Hotel  (2V2  hrs. ; 
bargain  beforehand  with  the  donkey -driver  at  Bedrashein;  thence  to  the 
Mena  House  Hotel  donkey  20,  camel  25-50,  desert-carr.  80-100  pias.),  whence 
we  take  the  tramway  to  Cairo.  Those  who  confine  themselves  to  the 
Necropolis  of  Sakkara  may  make  the  excursion  from  the  Mena  House  Hotel 
via  At)usir  (donkey  20,  camel  30,  desert-carr.  80  pias.).  —  For  the  route 
to  Sakkara  via  Helwan.  see  p.  170.  —  Comp.  'The  Tombs  of  Sakkara',  by 
A.  A.  'Quibell  (Ca'ir.i,  1911;  5  piaa.). 


%: 

'1  .-a^' 

III- 
Jt  .5  ^ 


.?'§ 


MEMPHIS.  7.  Route.    143 

The  trains  start  lioiu  the  Central  Station  (p. 3!i).  The  railway 
crosses  the  Nile  beyond  Bul&k  (p.  78),  passes  (i^ji  M.)  Emhdbeh 
(p.  79;  tramway  to  Cairo,  see  p.  38,  No.  6),  a  district-capital  wit]\ 
3459  inliab.,  and  makes  a  wide  curve  to  (6  M.)  Bfddk  ed-Dakrur,  on 
a  canal.  To  the  right  appear  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh ;  to  the  left  a 
reformatory  for  boys  and  p:irl3.  We  cross  the  road  to  the  Pyramids. 
—  At(8V2  M-l  Oheh  (p.  80)  we  see  Old  Cairo  (p.  JOB)  on  the  left, 
above  wliich  rises  the  long  ridge  of  the  Mokattani  and  to  the  S.  the 
Gebel  Tura  (p.  170).  To  the  right,  beyond  (11 V2  M-)  Abu'n-Nomros, 
rise  tlie  hills  of  the  Libyan  desert  with  the  sun-temple  of  Abu  Gurab 
(p.  140),  the  Pyramids  of  Abusir,  and  the  Step  Pyramid  I  p.  146). 
Fine  groves  of  palms.  14  M.  Tammuh;  171/0  M.  El-HawQmdlyeh 
(Hawarndia),  witli  a  large  sugar- factory.  To  the  left,  at  the  foot  of 
the  Gebel  Tura,  lies  Helwan  (p.  167). 

At  (^201/2  M.l  Bedrashein  ( Badrechtin)  visitors  bound  for  Mem- 
phis and  Sakkara  leave  tlie  train,  which  goes  on  to  Upper  Egypt. 
The  station  lies  to  the  left  of  the  line. 

Via  Memphis  (Colossi  of  Ramses)  and  Mix  Hahineh  to  the 
Neckopoi-is  of  S.VKK.inA.  We  ride  along  the  railway,  turn  to  the, 
right,  cross  a  bridge,  and  follow  the  embankment  towards  the  village 
of  Betlrashein  and  a  conspicuous  grove  of  palms  on  the  W.  At  the 
end  of  the  embankment,  '20  min.  from  the  station,  where  the  path 
divides,  we  keep  to  the  left.  The  mounds  of  rubbish  before  us,  the 
ruins  of  brick  buildings,  between  whii'li  the  lines  of  ancient  streets 
may  often  be  traced,  scattered  blocks  of  granite,  and  broken  pottery 
mark  the  ancient  — 

Site  of  Memphis. 

Were  it  not  for  the  vast  Necropolis  to  the  W.  of  the  ancient 
city,  no  one  would  imagine  that  one  of  the  most  famous  and  pop- 
ulous capitals  of  antiquity  had  once  stood  here.  The  Egyptians, 
from  the  earliest  period  down  to  the  Roman  imperial  epoch,  built 
tiieir  private  houses  of  large  sun-dried  bricks  of  Nile  mud,  reserv- 
ing better  material,  such  as  limestone,  .sandstone,  or  granite,  for 
palaces  and  temples.  Hut  even  the  public  buildings  of  Memphis 
have  almost  disappeared,  as  the  stones  were  early  carried  off  to  build 
other  eilifices  elsewhere.  Excavations  have  been  going  on  here 
since  1908  under  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie. 

llisTORir.  The  story  of  Blempliis  stretches  back  to  the  beginninf:  of 
Egyptian  history.  According  to  a  very  prubable  tradition,  Menes,  the 
first  historical  ruler  in  Egypt,  is  said  to  have  founded  the  'white  walls'' 
of  a  fortress  in  a  reclaimed  district  on  the  borders  between  the  two 
ancient  kingdoms  of  XJpper  and  Lower  Egypt  Cp.  xcix),  in  order  to  keep 
the  conquered  inhabitants  of  Lower  Egypt  in  subiection.  To  the  S. 
of  this  he  i.s  said  to  have  built  also  the  temple  of  Ptah  (Hepha-stos),  the 
patron-god  of  the  city.  The  new  settlement  rapidly  became  of  importance  ; 
it  was  made  the  capital  of  a  separate  district,  and  the  kings  of  the  early- 
dynasties  sometimes  planted  their  court  here.  Under  the  (jth  Dyn.  a  new 
quarter  was  founded,  in  which  King  Phiops  I.  lixed  the  residence  of  his 
court   and   near  which  the  sepulchral  pyramid  of  the  ruler  was  situated. 


144    Route  7.  MEMPHIS.  Coiom. 

This  quarter,  as  well  as  the  pyramid,  was  callod  Men-nefru-Mire,  i.e.  'The 
beauty  of  King  Mire  (Phiops)  remains',  and  this  uame  (in  the  later  ab- 
breviated form  Men/e,  in  Greek  Memphis)  was  afterwards  applied  to  the 
whole  city.  Mempliis  attained  its  greatest  prosperity  under  the  monarchs 
of  the  Ancient  Empire,  who  resided  here  or  in  the  vicinity  (near  Gizeh 
and  Abusir).  Even  under  the  Middle  and  New  Empires,  when  Thebes 
became  the  centre  of  Egypt  and  the  Theban  Amon  the  most  revered 
among  the  gods,  Memphis  appears  to  have  retrograded  but  little.  Tn  the 
time  of  the  2Uth  Dyn.  the  temple  of  Ptah  was  still  the  largest  in  tlie 
country  but  two.  In  the  course  of  the  contest.s  fur  the  possession  of 
Egypt,  which  raged  after  the  2'2ad  Dyn.,  the  city  was  captured  by  the 
Ethiopian  Piankhi  and  by  the  As.syrians. 

Cambyses,  the  first  monarch  of  the  Persian  dynasty,  took  Memphis  by 
storm  after  his  victory  at  Pelusium  (525  B.C.j  over  Psammetichos  III. ;  and 
even  after  the  foundation  of  Alexandria  (331  B.C.)  it  appears  to  have  re- 
tained some  importance.  Under  Augustus  it  was  a  large  and  populous 
city,  though  its  palaces,  elevated  on  an  eminence,  lay  ruined  aud  deserted. 
Among  the  temples  that  still  existed  were  those  of  Ptah,  of  Apis  (p.l47t, 
and  of  a  female  deity  who  was  identified  with  the  Aphrodite  of  the  Greeks. 
In  consequence  of  the  edict  of  Theodosius  (379-395  A.D.  ;  comp.  p.  cxii)  the 
temples  and  statues  were  destroyed,  and  under  the  later  Byzantine  mon- 
archs the  heretical  Monophysites  (p.  cxiii)  seem  to  have  been  very  numerous 
here.  Mukaukis,  the  leader  of  the  Copts,  was  established  at  Memphis 
while  negotiating  with  'Amr  ibn  el-'A.s ,  the  general  of  Omar  (p.  44). 
The  Mohammedan  conquerors  transferred  their  residence  to  the  right 
bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  the  northernmost  part  of  Memphis,  using  the 
well-hewn  blocks,  which  had  once  composed  the  venerable  palaces  and 
temples  of  the  ancient  city  of  Menes,  for  the  construction  of  their  palaces, 
castles,  and  mosques  at  Cairo.  But  down  to  a  late  period  the  ruins  of 
Memphis  excited  the  admiration  of  all  visitors.  Thus  'Abdellatif  (at  the 
end  of  the  12th  cent.)  assures  us  that  even  in  his  time  the  ruins  contained  a 
profusion  of  wonders  which  bewildered  the  mind  and  baffled  description.  — 
After  his  time  the  rapidly  dwindling  ruins  of  Memphis  are  rarely  mentioned. 

Tlie  path  continuing  in  the  original  direction  (W.)  from  the 
fork  (p.  143),  and  leading  through  the  palm-grove  to  the  village 
of  MH  RaMneh,  brings  us  to  the  ^Colossal  Statues  of  Kamses  11., 
which  once  marked  the  entrance  to  the  temple.  The  first  of  these, 
discovered  in  1888,  is  made  of  granite  and  lies  on  its  hack  on  a 
slight  eminence.  Its  length  is  26  ft.,  not  including  the  crown,  which 
is  6^2  ft-  long-  The  square  hole  in  the  head  of  the  colossus  was  for 
the  insertion  of  the  crown,  which  lies  on  the  ground  beside  it.  On 
hoth  shoulders,  breast,  girdle,  and  bracelet  occurs  the  name  of  the 
king;  and  on  tlie  pillar  at  the  back  is  an  inscription.  On  the  left  of 
the  statue  is  an  incised  relief  of  Princess  Bent-Anat.  —  Beside  the 
statue  stands  a  stele  of  Apries  (p.  cvi),  in  the  rounded  pediment 
of  which  appear  Ptah  and  the  falcon-  headed  Soker.  —  A  little 
farther  on  lies  a  gigantic  Sphinx,  excavated  in  1912  and  in  an  ex- 
cellent state  of  preserYation.  It  is  made  of  alabaster  and  is,  as  far 
as  we  know,  tlie  largest  sphinx  that  has  ever  been  transported,  being 
26  ft.  long  and  14  ft.  high  and  weighing  about  80  tons.  It  has  no 
inscriptions,  but  may  be  assigned  to  the  18th  or  19th  dynasty. 

We  next  reach  the  mud-hut  that  conceals  the  Second  Colossus 
(adm.  4  pias.  for  those  without  official  admission  ticket,  see  p.  142). 
discovered  by  Caviglia  and  Sloane  in  1820.  A  wooden  flight 
of  ste£s    ascends   to   a  platform    from    which    the    statue    is  in- 


PYRAMIDS  AND  TOMBS  of  SAKKARA 


Scale  1  ;  2.5.000 


IV^ 


Oo 


Modetm  BuHdinqsare  coloiu-ed  bl/tdc. 


"  Tombs         *:  ■ 
:hv  A^icierU  h'n'ipire 


>'      t    e  I- 


".fd'' 


%.l^ 


r-.-y 


PrramiiL  or  Phiops  I 


Plan    1. 
(SExteiiMon  of  Ihe  Principal  Mapi 

S. Groups  of  llie 
P^TtAMlDS    OF    SAKKARA. 


•i^' 


ograpli.TnBU't .  of    Wagiier  *-Deljes,Leipii^. 


■j:^- 

?../' 


apeiufflt 


^// 


.s"    '^i-* 


,>"  i         '^-r    T>r    v"^' 

fHaraiB.-<'t-SiaK55&itsit)  ;                         ^;-              .-y.^      (jo'                     f  ''- r" 

/                 TetZ  \  '^OTtih  or £rget7\ni                                           '  "  ^  -'.  .^'^.' 

Tnwhs   nov              /  '         atrett  of  Tombs  ol'ihe  SthDriu     i-l'-rt^fj 


Pvnunia  affepvet 
Jitunjfd 

f\r,unid 


Abu sir  ^ 


LlTLi: 


,Vf^t   to    Ho  V. 


Pyruniid 
orXuscrre 

iloiinarvT. 


Oatf-r 

Pyramid 
ofSehure 

I  ■      ^AHfrttany  Temp  le 


^y 


Plan    II. 

(  N"  V\'  Kxlonsion  of  IhePriucipfU  M.ip) 

PYRAMIDS    AND   TOMBS 

of 

A  B  U  S  I  R. 


Necropolis.  SAKKAKA.  7.  Route.    145 

spected.  It  consists  of  remarkably  liard  and  liiic-graiucd  limestone, 
and  before  it  was  injured  was  about  4'2  ft.  in  height,  corresponding 
to  tlie  measurement  given  by  Herodotus  (30  cubits  of  I'/o  ft-  each). 
Tiie  workmanship  is  excellent.  The  liandsome  and  gentle  features 
of  the  king  are  admirably  reproduced.  A  conventional  beard  is 
attached  to  the  chin.  In  the  girdle  is  a  dagger  with  two  falcon's 
heads.  On  the  right  shoulder,  the  breast,  and  the  girdle  appear  the 
praeuomina  of  Ramses  II.  This  colossus  is  to  be  removed  to  the 
Place  Ramses  in  Cairo  (comp.  p.  78).  —  In  front  of  the  hut  are 
several  fragments  of  monuments,   showing  the  name  of  Ramses  11. 

Two  routes  lead  from  the  colossi  to  the  Necropolis  of  Sakkara. 
One,  turning  to  the  N.,  passes  the  ruins  of.  the  old  Temple  of  Ptah, 
situated  below  the  village  of  Mit  Rahineh  and  close  by  a  cemetery 
containingthe  picturesque  tomh  of  a  sheikh.  Thence  we  ride  through 
the  lanes  of  Mit  Rahineh,  beyond  which  we  make  for  the  Step  Pyr- 
amid due  W.  (p.  146). 

The  other  route,  more  usually  followed,  leads  to  the  W.  from  the 
colossi  of  Ramses,  leaving  the  village  of  Mit  Rahineh  to  the  right. 
On  quitting  tlie  palm-grove  we  obtain  an  attractive  view ;  imme- 
diately to  the  right,  shaded  by  palm-trees  and  lehbakhs,  is  a  small 
villa.  About  IV2M.  to  the  W.  is  another  long  palm-grove  surround- 
ing Sakkara  and  bordering  the  desert;  beyond  this,  on  the  yellow 
sand  of  the  desert,  rise  eleven  pyramids.  The  iirst  of  these,  to  the 
left,  is  the  S.  brick  pyramid,  beyond  which  are  the  blunted  pyramid, 
the  N.  brick  pyramid,  and  the  great  pyramid,  all  belonging  to  the, 
group  of  Dahshur  (p.  166).  Not  far  from  these  we  next  perceive  the 
Mastabat  el-Fara'6n,  with  the  pyramid  of  Phiops  II.;  then,  exactly 
above  the  houses  of  Sakkara,  two  pyramids,  the  lesser  of  which  is 
that  of  Phiops  I.;  and,  lastly,  to  the  right,  the  pyramid  of  Onnos, 
the  great  step-pyramid,  and  two  smaller  ones  (to  the  right,  that  of 
Teti).  These  last  seven  pyramids  belong  to  the  group  of  Sakkara.  — 
We  ride  along  the  embankment  to  the  W.  and  then  to  the  N.,  skirt- 
ing a  canal  (Bahr  el-Libeini),  to  the  lock-bridge,  where  we  join 
the  direct  route  (sec  below).  We  continue  to  follow  the  embank- 
ment across  the  plain  towards  the  W.  and  arrive  (20  min.  from 
the  lock-bridge)  at  the  Rns  el-Gisr  ('head  of  the  embankment'). 

From  Bbdeashein  to  the  NECROPOiiis  or  SakkAra  direct.  — 
From  the  fork  mentioned  on  p.  143  we  ride  to  the  N.,  following  the 
telegraph-poles,  traversing  the  entire  palm-grove  and  passing  among 
the  brick  ruins  of  ancient  Memphis.  We  then  follow  the  embank- 
ment to  the  above-mentioned  lock-bridge. 

The  united  routes  ascend  to  the  plateau  and  bring  us  in  sight 
of  the  vast  **NecropoIis  of  Sakkflira  (Saqqara),  which  extends 
about  41/3  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  1/4- 1  M.  from  E.  to  W.  It  contains 
sepulchral  monuments  of  almost  every  period  of  Egyptian  history. 
Loose  heaps  of  light-coloured  sand  indicate  recent  excavations.  The 


146    Route  7.  SAKKAUA.  Step  Pyramid. 

whole  necropolis  lias  been  repeatedly  explored  by  the  Byzatitines 
and  the  Caliphs,  as  well  as  by  modern  explorers. 

On  a  hill  close  to  the  Ras  el-Gisr  lie  the  ruins  of  the  large 
Convent  of  St.  Jeremiah,  resembling  a  deserted  village.  They  were 
excavated  in  1907-9  by  .J.  E.  Quibell  for  the  Kgyptian  authorities. 
The  convent,  founded  in  the  second  half  of  the  5th  cent,  and  de- 
stroyed by  tlic  Arabs  about  960,  includes  two  churches,  a  refectory, 
a  bake-house,  oil-press,  wine-cellars,  etc.  The  cell  of  St.  Jeremiah 
also  is  preserved.  Many  of  the  monks'  cells  have  remained  intact, 
each  with  a  recess  in  the  E.  wall ,  which  served  as  an  oratory  and 
was  sometimes  adorned  with  paintings  of  the  Madonna,  the  arch- 
angels, and  the  founder  of  the  convent.  These  paintings,  like  the 
flue  capitals  and  reliefs  from  the  churches,  are  now  in  the  museum 
at  Cairo  (comp.  p.  89J.  On  the  walls  are  numerous  Coptic  and 
Arabic  inscriptions.  The  tombstones  embedded  in  the  pavement 
were  brought  from  the  convent-cemetery.  The  best  general  survey 
is  obtained  from  the  rubbish-heap. 

From  this  convent  we  ride  to  the  N.W.,  straight  towards  the 
Step  Pyramid. 

The  *Step  Pyramid  of  tSakkara  (Arab.  Et-Ifaram  el-Mudarrag, 
i.e.  'the  pyramid  provided  with  steps';  comp.  the  illustration  on 
p.  (Ixix),  a  very  conspicuous  feature  in  the  landscape,  may  be 
regarded  as  the  'Cognizance  of  Sakkara'.  It  was  the  tomb  of  the 
ancient  king  Zo>!er  (3rd  Dyn.)  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  stone 
buildings  in  I'^gypt  that  have  come  down  to  our  days.  Tlie  pyramid 
consists  of  six  stages,  the  lowest  of  which  is  about  'ijl^/2  ft.  in  height, 
the  next  36  ft.,  the  third  341/4  ft.,  the  fourth  321/2  ft-,  the  fifth 
30^/4  ft.,  and  the  sixth  29  ft.,  while  each  stage  recedes  about  6'/2  ft. 
as  compared  with  the  one  below.  The  perpendicular  height  is 
200  ft.  For  the  graduated  construction,  comp.  p.  clxix.  The  pyramid 
is  built  of  an  inferior  clayey  limestone  quarried  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. The  original  entrance  was  on  the  N.  side,  at  the  foot  of  the 
lowest  step.  The  interior  ( inaccessible)  contains  a  complicated 
series  of  passages  and  chambers,  which,  however,  are  due  to 
treasure-hunters  and  to  later  attempts  at  restoration  ;  for  the  orig- 
inal construction  of  King  Zoser  had  only  one  sloping  entrance-shaft 
(PI.  ab,  p.  clxix),  with  ramps  at  the  sides,  and  a  single  tomb-cham- 
ber (PI.  b).  The  pyramid  is  seldom  climbed  as  the  stoue  of  which 
it  is  composed  is  very  friable,  but  the  top  commands  an  interesting 
view.  —  There  are  still  some  remains  of  the  stone  wall  that  en- 
closed the  pyramid;  it  was  decorated  with  door-shaped  ornaments. 

About  300  yds.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Step  Pyramid  is  the  Pyramid 
of  Onnos  (p.  165).  Beyond  the  Step  Pyramid,  in  the  direction  of 
Mariette's  House,  a  striking  view  opens  towards  the  N.  In  the  fore- 
ground lies  the  green  valley  of  the  Nile,  bordered  by  palm-trees, 
and  framed  on  both  sides  with  the  yellowish -grey  desert;  in  the 
distance  the  alabaster  mosque  of  Mohammed  Ali  at  Cairo.    On  the 


Sernpeum.  SAKKAKA.  7.  Route.    147 

left  tower  the  tlirec  pyramids  of  Gizoh  and  tlie  three  nearer  pyr- 
amids of  Abusir.  The  path  turns  to  the  right  beyond  the  next  heap 
of  rubbish  (N.W.),  crosses  the  hollow,  and  soon  reaches  — 

Marietta's  House.  Auguste  Mariette,  the  famous  Egyptologist 
(see  p.  80),  first  rose  into  notice  by  his  discovery  of  tiie  Apis  Tombs 
in  1851;  and  from  1858  till  liis  death  in  1881  was  director  of  the 
official  excavations  in  Egypt.  Visitors  generally  eat  their  luncheon 
(brought  from  Cairo)  on  the  terrace.  A  fee  of  S'/o  pias.  or  more,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  the  party,  is  given  to  the  keepers  in  charge 
of  the  house,  who  supply  coffee  prepared  in  the  Arab  style.  From 
this  point  paths  lead  to  the  various  points  of  interest. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  W,  of  Mariette's  House  lies  the 
Egyptian  "'*Serapeum,  or  subterranean  Tombs  of  Apis,  hewn  in 
the  rock. 

Apis  (p.  cxli),  the  sacred  bull  of  the  god  Ptali  (p.  143),  which  was  wor- 
shipped in  a  special  temple  at  Memphis,  was  after  death  embalmed  like  a 
human  being  and  interred  with  great  pomp  in  the  necropolis  of  Memphis. 
As  early  as  the  reign  of  Amenophis  III.,  and  probably  still  earlier,  the  Apis 
tombs  consisted  of  a  subterranean  tomb-chamber,  reached  by  a  sloping 
shaft,  over  which  a  chapel  was  erected  in  honour  of  the  bull.  Under 
llamses  II.  a  large  common  grave  was  prepared  for  the  Apis  bulls  by 
Prince  Kharawesot;  a  subterranean  gallery,  over  100  yds.  in  length,  was 
hewn  in  the  rock  and  Hanked  with  chambers,  which  were  walled  up  after 
receiving  the  wooden  coffin  containing  the  sacred  remains.  Psanimetichos  I. 
caused  a  similar  gallery  with  side-vaults  to  be  constructed  at  right  angles 
to  the  first  one.  These  vaults,  which  were  added  to  at  intervals  down  to 
the  Ptolemaic  period,  were  mucli  larger  and  more  carcr\illy  constructed 
than  the  previous  series.  They  have  an  aggregate  length  of  about  380  yds. 
and  are  about  10  ft.  in  width  and  IT'/s  ft.  in  height.  Above  them  rose 
a,  large  temple  for  the  cult  of  the  dead  god.  —  The  ancient  Egyptians 
believed  that  like  man  (p.  cslviii)  the  deceased  bull  was  united  with  Osiris, 
and  became  the  'Osiris-Apis'  (Egypt.  Oter-hape;  Gr.  Osorapis).  He  thus 
became  a  kind  of  god  of  the  dead  and  was  called,  like  Osiris,  'Lord  of 
the  western  land';  pilgrims  crowded  to  the  tomb  to  iiiy  their  devotions 
and  to  present  votive  offerings.  The  last  were  usually  small  memorial 
tablets,  which  were  inserted  in  the  walls  of  the  subterranean  galleries. 
The  worship  of  the  foreign  god  Serapis  or  Sarajyis,  introduced  under 
Ptolemy  I.,  rapidly  spread  in  Egypt,  and  it  is  easy  to  understand  how 
the  new  Sarapis  was  confounded  with  Osorapis  and  worshipped  along  with 
the  latter  in  the  ancient  temple  in  tlie  necropolis  of  Memphis.  The  temple 
itself  came  to  lie  commonly  known  as  the  Saruyeion  or  Serapeum. 

A  second  temple  of  Osorapis,  built  by  Nektancbos  II.,  once  stood  op- 
posite the  temple  covering  the  Apis  tombs  (W.  of  IMariette's  house).  These 
temples  were  connected  by  a  path  enclosed  by  walls,  on  which  stood  Greek 
statues;  a  few  nf  these  are  still  on  their  original  site  (but  now  covered 
with  sand).  The  '^reat  Sphinx  Avenue,  which  led  to  the  W.  through  the 
necropolis  to  the  Seropeum,  terminated  in  front  of  the  temple  of  Ncktanebos 
in  a  semicircular  space  adorned  with  statues  of  Greek  jihilosophers.  But 
the  remains  of  all  these  monuments  are  now  covereil  with  sand,  and 
only  the  gallery  of  Apis  Tombt  constructed  by  Psammetichos  is  accessible 
to  visitors. 

Passing  through  the  Gateway  (PI.  a,  p.  148),  we  enter  a  Chamber 
(PI.  b)  of  considerable  dimensions,  with  niches  in  the  bare  lime- 
stone walls,  where  many  tombstones  of  deceased  bulls  and  votive 
tablets  (see  above)  were  found.  Visitors  light  their  candles  here. 
The   guide  now   proceeds   to   the  right.     After  a   few  paces  we 


L_ 


l4^^1ioulc7.  .SAKKAUA.  Serapeum. 

observe  at  our   foot  a  liugc  block  of  black  {^laiiitc  (I'l.  c),    which 
once  formed  the  lid  of  a  sarcophagus.     Beyond  it  we  turn  to  the 

left  and  after  ten  paces  we  reach 
■^     i  an   enormous    granite  sarcophagus 

_  ,r  (PI.    d),     which    nearly    fills   the 

i    '   .    passage.     The   lid   and  the  sarco- 

]-—/  phagus,  which  belong  to  each  otlier, 

I    'Zi:~  were    probably   stopped    here    on 

their  way  to  the  vault  for  which 

they  were  destiued,  in  consequence 

"~  of  the  overthrow  of  the  worship  of 

'■  -'       - —  Apis.   Near  the  end  of  this  passage 

we  turn  to  the  left  (S.)  into  another, 

which  leads  us  to  the  — 

.    V-^-~i  '  Principal  Passage  (PI.  AB), 

j  running  parallel  witli  the  ilrst,  from 

E.  to  W.,  and  penetrating  the  solid 

^.j  rock.   This  passage  is  flanked  with 

side -chambers,    about    26   ft.    in 

\  r.       r  lieight,  the  pavements  and  vaulted 

'       \  7~^        '^'  ceilings   of  which  are  constructed 

j  ,  of    excellent      Mokattam      stone. 

I  Twenty-four  of  the  chambers  still 

i»  j  ;  contain  huge  sarcophagi  in  which 

■^-  '  i  the  Apis  mummies  were  deposit- 

„     1  ed.     These    monster    coffins    each 

'j  consist  of  a  single  block  of  black 

'    r  or    red    polished     granite    or    of 

limestone,    and  average  13  ft.   in 

length,  7  ft.  in  width,  and   11  ft. 

in  height,  and  no  less  than  65  tons 

I   )  1  ■  in    weight.     The    covers,    five   of 

1 J  which    are    composed    of  separate 

'  U  pieces  of  stone  cemented  together, 

^  have  in  many  instances  been  push- 

■^^^x-^t    '^  ed  on  one  side.   All  the  sarcophagi, 

^  '  ^"Y     f    '."    ""      ".vfcirea         whcn  discoverod  by  Mariette,  had 

been    emptied  of   their  contents. 

with  the   exception   of  two,    which  still  contained  a  number  of 

trinkets.     Only   a    few    of  the  sarcophagi  bear  inscriptions;    one 

bears  the  n.'ime  of  Amaiis.,  another  that  of  Cambyses,  and  a  third 

that    of  Khabbash,   leader   of  the  Egyptians  against  the  Persians 

(p.  cvi).  The  finest  is  the  last  sarcophagus  on  the  right  side  (PI. e), 

to  which  a  flight  of  steps  descends.    It  consists  of  black  and  finely 

polished  granite  and  is  covered  with  inscriptions  and  door-shaped 

ornaments. 

Near  the  E.  end  of  the  principal  passage  we  reach  a  side-i)assage 


Serapeum.  SAKKARA.  7.  BouU.    149 

(PI.  f)  flivcrging  to  the  right,  sonic  22  yds.  in  lengtli,  from  which 
another  passage  leads  to  tlie  right,  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the 
main  corridor,  but  now  built  up.  Opposite  the  side -passage  we 
pass  over  another  sarcophagus  by  means  of  steps  fPl.  g)  and  thus 
regain  the  door  by  which  we  entered  the  vaults.  The  temperature 
in  these  subterranean  chambers  is  alw  ays  nearly  80°  Fahr. 

'I  confess',  says  Jlariette,  in  bis  rep'jrt  of  the  discovery,  'Ui.it  when 
I  penetrated  for  the  first  time,  on  Nov.  l'2th,  1851,  into  the  Apis  vaults,  I 
was  so  profoundly  struck  witli  astonishment  that  the  feeling  is  still 
fresh  in  my  mind,  although  five  years  have  elapsed  since  then.  Owing 
to  some  chance  which  it  is  difficult  to  account  for,  a  chamber  which  had 
been  walled  up  in  the  thirtieth  year  of  the  reign  of  Kamses  11.  had  es- 
caped the  notice  of  the  plunderers  of  the  vaults,  and  I  was  so  fortunate  as 
to  find  it  untouched.  Although  37tX)  years  had  elapsed  since  it  was  closed, 
everything  in  the  chamber  seemed  to  be  precisely  in  its  original  condition. 
The  finger-marks  of  the  Egyptian  who  had  inserted  the  last  stone  in 
the  wall  built  to  conceal  the  doorway  were  still  recognizable  on  the 
lime.  There  were  also  the  marks  of  naked  feet  imprinted  on  the  sand 
which  lay  in  one  corner  of  the  tomb-chamber.  Everything  was  in  its 
original  condition  in  this  tomb,  where  the  embalmed  remains  of  the  bull 
had  lain  undisturbed  for  thirty-seven  centuries.'' 

Next  to  the  Apis  Tombs  the  private  tombs  [Mastabas,  p.  clxviil) 
are  the  most  interesting  points  at  Sakkara,  though  only  a  few  are 
open  to  the  inspection  of  tourists. 

The  most  celebrated  of  them  all,  to  the  N.E.  of  Marictte's 
House,  is  the  **Mastaba  of  Ti,  dating  from  the  epoch  of  the 
5th  Dyn.,  at  the  beginning  of  whicli  the  deceased  Ti  was  a  high 
court-official  and  wealthy  landowner.  The  building  originally 
stood  above  ground  but  it  is  now  almost  entirely  sunk  in  the  sand, 
it  was  discovered  and  excavated  by  Mariettc  and  has  been  restored 
by  the  'Service  des  Antiquites  de  TEgypte',  as  is  recorded  on  a 
tablet  at  the  entrance.  The  mural  reliefs,  besides  being  interest- 
ing on  account  of  their  subjects,  are  among  the  finest  and  best- 
preserved  examples  of  the  art  of  the  Ancient  Empire  (comp. 
p.  clxxiv). 

From  the  street(Pl.  A,  p.  150)  we  first  enter  the  Smaxl  Vestibulf. 
(PI.  B),  which  contains  two  pillars  (upper  parts  restored),  on  each 
of  which  Ti  is  represented,  in  a  long  wig  and  a  short,  broad  apron, 
holding  a  staff  in  one  hand  and  a  kind  of  club  in  the  other.  On 
the  E.  wall  are  several  peasant  women  (PI.  a),  representing  the 
villages  belonging  to  Ti,  bringing  food  to  the  tomb;  on  the  S.  wall 
are  poultry  anil  doves  being  fatteTied  in  a  pen  (PL  b).  The  other 
reliefs  are  obliterated. 

AVe  next  pass  through  a  doorway,  the  sides  of  which  show  figures 
of  Ti  and  inscriptions,  ami  enter  the  Gkeat  Court  (PI.  C),  an 
extensive  ([uadrangle,  with  a  modern  wooden  roof  borne  by  twelve 
ancient  square  pillars  (restored).  This  hall  was  the  scene  of  the 
offerings  to  the  deceased.  In  the  centre  of  the  court  is  a  flight  of 
steps  (I'l.  d),    by  which  we  may  descend  to  a  low  subterranean 


150    Uoute  7. 


SAKKAUA. 


Miixtdba 


passage,  oxteiidiiiK  tlie  whole  length  of  the  building  and  leading 
lirst  to  a  kind  of  vestibule  and  then  to  tJie  tomb  chamber.  The  now 
empty  sarcophagus  completely  fills  the  niohe  in  which  it  stands. 

The  Mural  Reliefs  in  the  great  court  deserve  no  long  examina- 
tion j  they  are  much  injured  by  exposure  and  some  have  become 
altogether  unrecognizable.    On  the  N. 
r  '^         Wall  (PI.  o)  Ti  is  represented  super- 

;  -        intending    the    sacrifice    and   cutting 

up  of  cattle,  shown  in  the  woodcut 
at  p.  151,  and  servants  with  gifts +. 
Behind  the  wall  here  was  another 
chamber  (Serddb,-  PI.  D ;  p.  clx viii),  con- 
taining statues.  On  the  E.  Wall  (PI.  f") 
there  are  reliefs  only  to  the  left :  Ti 
borne  in  a  litter,  preceded  by  attend- 
ants carrying  fans,  boxes,  and  chairs. 
On  the  iv.  Wall  (from  right  to  left): 
Ti  and  his  wife  (Pl.  h)  inspect  the 
fattening  of  geese  and  the  feeding  of 
cranes  (PI.  g") ;  a  poultry-yard  (PI.  i); 
'l"i  receiving  the  accounts  of  his  offi- 
cials, who  stand  in  a  house  snj>ported 
by  columns;  Ti  (upper  part  injured) 
superintending  the  arrival  of  liis  Nile 
boats,  while  herds  of  various  kinds  arc 
driven  towards  him  (PI.  k);  false  door 
dedicated  to  Ti's  son  (PI.  1). 

We  pass  through  the  door  in  the 
corner,  noticing  on  each  side  three 
figures  of  Ti,  represented  as  walking 
from  within,  each  time  in  a  different 
costume.  The  door  admits  to  a  Corridor 
f  PI.  E).  On  each  side-wall  are  servants 
l)earing  of  offerings  into  the  tomb.  On 
the  right  is  also  a  false  door  dedicated 
to  ^'efer-hoipes,  the  wife  of  Ti.  Another  door  admits  us  to  a  Second 
(."oRRiDOK.  lu  the  lower  row  on  the  Left  Wall  the  slaughter  of 
cattle  for  sacrifice  Is  represented;  in  the  upper  row  statues  of  the 
deceased  are  being  drawn  to  the  tomb  on  sledges,  in  front  of 
which  a  man  pours  water  to  prevent  the  heavily  laden  sledges 
from  taking  fire  by  friction.  On  tlie  Right  Wall  appear  ships  in 
which  Ti   has   inspected  his    estates  in   the  Delta.    The  curious 


f  We  annex  woodcnts  of  some  of  the  best  of  these  scenes,  froiu  photo- 
£;raphs  taken  from  impressions  obtained  by  Dr.  Reil  (d.  1880),  and  there- 
fore almost  facsimiles.  With  the  exception  of  the  large  pictTire  of  Ti 
engnped  in  hunting  fp.  168),  which  is  one-nineteenth  Ihe  original  size, 
they  are  reduced  to  one-twellth  of  the  original  size. 


of  Ti. 


SAKKARA. 


7.  Route.    151 


steering-gear  should  be  noticed.    Over  the  door  by  which  we  entered 
are  Ti  and  his  wife  in  a  boat  in  a  tliicket  of  papyrus.  Over  the  door 


Tlirowin?  down  the  victim, 

leading  to  PI.  G  are  dancers  and  singers.  A  door  on  tlie  riglit  now 
leads  into  a  Side  Chamukk  (IM.  F),  in  which  the  original  colours 
of  the  reliefs  are  adinirahly  preserved.    On  the  upper  part  of  tlie 


oking  poultry. 

left  door-post  a  piece  of  the  sycamore  wood  to  which  tlie  door  was 

attached  is  still  in  its  place.  Right  Wall:  Ti,  who  stands  to  the  right, 

receives  from  his  servants 

sacrilicial    gifts    (^(lowers, 

cakes,  poultry,  etc.);   in 

the  top  row,   tables  with 

sacrificial  gifts.  BackWalt: 

at  the  top,  pottery  being 

fired  in  a  kiln;  bakers  and 


Faltening  geese. 


Feeding  cr.ine.a;  (he  t\vn  men  aliove 
are  preparing  the  food. 


152 


lloult  7 . 


SAKKAKA. 


Ma^laba 


brewers;  below,  a  man  measures  corn,  wliile  scribes  note  down  tlie 
quantity.  Left  Wall:  Ti;  to  the  right,  servants  with  gifts;  above,  tables 
ami  ve^isels  of  various  kinds.    Entrance  Wall:  Tables  and  vessels. 


Sailing-ship. 


Leaving  the  corridor  we  pass  through  the  door  opening  to 
the  S.  (with  a  figure  of  Ti  on  each  side}  and  enter  the  Tomb- 
Chamber  (PI.  G)  itself.    The  ceiling  rests  on  two  square  pillars, 


Jo  Stri.es 
of 
Vurre.H. 
i\ene.r 


(Bair   mutCUif^fd) 


;I!a:-jofJ"afi-lu>7<U7ig  Scen&r 


East  Wall  of  the  Tomb-Chamber  (PI.  G). 

coloured  to  imitate  red  granite.  The  names  and  titles  of  Ti  are  in- 
scribed on  the  pillars.  The  reliefs  here,  the  colouring  of  which  is 
also   for  the  most  part  well  preserved,  repay  careful  examination. 


of  Ti. 


SAKKAUA. 


7.  Route.    153 


Winnnwins  corn. 


Reaping. 


Ass  witi)  a  sack  of  com. 


Shaping  a  tree-trunk. 


Ship-building. 


rr  v»pn 


Ship-building. 


Sawing.  Carpenters  making  a  door. 


154   Route  7. 


SAKKARA. 


Mastaba 


Oil  the  E.  Side  (to  the  left  of  the  entraur'e;  roiup.  the  Plan  at 
p.  152)  Ti,  to  the  right,  with  his  wife  kneeling  at  his  side,  appears 
inspecting  the  liarvest  operations,  which  are  represented  in  ten 
rows  of  scenes  (  beginning  at  the  top)  :  tlie  corn  is  reaped,  placed  in 
saelis,  and  loaded  upon  asses,  which  hear  it  to  the  threshing-floor;  the 
ears  are  taken  from  the  sacks  and  piled  in  heaps ;  then  follows  the 
treading  out  of  tlie  corn  by  oxen  or  asses ;  the  threshed  grain  along 
with  the  chaff  is  piled  in  a  great  heap  by  means  of  three-pronged 
forks,  then  sifted,  and  winnowed  with  two  small  boards;  finally 
it  is  placed  in  a  sack  by  a  woman. 

Farther  to  the  right  on  this  wall  are  two  well-preserved  and 
several  damaged  ship-building  scenes,  representing  the  various 
operations:  shaping  the  tree-trunks,  sawing  boards,  and  the  actual 


Afit^Jofies   and  staff 


Cmtrl, 
af  Justice 


(yffKri:nris 


Qfferinns       }fiijxrin-nj 


13earerj  of  0.''fei-injjS' 


Slnughierutg    AnhnaJs 


PigeuTis  /  G^^se ,    CranJts .      Jnunals  being  tlaujghi^Kd. 


S.  Side  of  the  Tomb-Chamber  of  Ti. 


construction  of  tlie  ship,  on  which  some  workmen  are  using  hammer, 
adze,  and  chisel,  while  others  are  placing  the  planks.  Jn  one  of  the 
ships  stands  Ti,  inspecting  the  work.  The  primitive  saws,  axes, 
hammers,  drills,  and  other  tools  used  by  the  workmen  are  parti- 
cularly interesting. 

The  S.  Side  (see  Plan  above)  is  richly  covered  with  represent- 
ations, but  the  upper  parts  are  damaged.  From  left  to  right. 
At  the  top  (to  the  left),  Ti.  A  small  cleft  below  this  figure  to  the 
left,  leads  to  a  second  Serddb  (PI.  H),  in  which  a  complete  statue 
of  Ti  (comp.  p.  84)  and  several  broken  ones  were  found.  To  the  right 
and  left  of  the  cleft  are  two  men  offering  incense  to  Ti.  Ti  and 
his  wife  inspect  their  workmen,  who  are  represented  in  four 
rows :  from  above  downwards,  1.  Men  blowing  a  furnace  (perhaps  for 
glass-making  or  copper-smelting);  2.  Sculptors  and  makers  of  stone 
vessels;  3.  Carpenters;  to  the  left  are  men  polishing  a  door  and  a 
chest;   then,   men  sawing  planks;  two  men  polishing  a  bedstead, 


of  Ti. 


SAKKARA. 


7.  Route.    155 


below  wliicli  lies  a  licad-rest;  a  man  using  a  drill;  4.  Leather- 
workers  and  market-scenes;  one  dealer  has  a  skin  and  two  pots  of 
oil  for  sale;  anotl\er  has  a  wallet  for  which  a  man  offers  him  a  pair 


H,1&M  ^'  A  a  A, IT    1  \    c^-^K 


f" 


Carpenters  at  work. 


:^  fn^^lj 


of  sandals;  a  stamp-cutter  makes  a  stone  seal ;  to  the  right  a  man 
is  selling  sticks.  —  At  the  top  \\\\  tlie  middlej,  Ti,  with  his  wife 
seated  at  his  feet,  inspects  the  different  kinds  of  animals  (antelopes, 


'\J 


fe^ 


Village-eldcB    brmight  to  pive 
e  vdence. 


Estafc-office. 


gazelles,  goats,  stags,  cattle;  each  with  the  name  above)  which  are 
being  brought  for  sacrifice  by  the  peasantry  of  his  estates.  Below, 
three  rows  of  cattle;  three  village-elders  are  forcibly  brought  to  the 
estate-office  to  give  evidence  as  to  taxes;  at  the  bottom,  poultry  of 
Baedekkk's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  11 


156    Route  7. 


SAKKARA. 


Mastaba 


all  kinds  (eraucs,  geese,  pigeons).  —  At  the  top  (to  the  right),  Ti 
is  sitting  at  table,   while  attendants  bring  sacrificial  gifts.   Below 


\/A^  i  uh-cuUuny   utnl   Bt-rtL  -  ^ncu^ti/ 


SoLe. 


Fxsrrzn^ 


OrFrre^^        Rtutu>     Cattle^      Seated 


Ape  am. 


Hujfti^     Cattle-    Scerce<f 


nith 
and  Kesit 


n 


HippupotaynzLS 


QxjjorrvL  ajftnitg 


Fishing  tn.  Boats 


Ploit^fang    Sain*- 


seed  into  the  graurid 
Scens 


'J6  J^ema/a     Figures    repre^entij^tg       Ti  S      e^ptatcr 


N.  Side  of  the  Tomb-Chamber  of  Ti. 

arc  attendants  with  gifts  for  sacrifice,  and  flute-players  and  liarpers, 
who  perform  music  during  the  meal;  slaughter  and  cutting  up  of 
cattle  for  sacrifice. 


Cattle  feeding. 


Ploughing. 


Tilling.  Sowing. 


On  the  W.  Sidt  of  the  tomb-chamber  are  two  large  false  doors, 
representing  the  entrance  to  the  realm  of  the  dead.  In  front  of  tlie 


of  Ti. 


SAKKAUA. 


7.  Route.    157 


left  door  is  a  slab  for  tho  reception  of  offerings.  In  the  centre  of 
the  wall  are  slaughterers  and  the  presentation  of  gifts  (^damaged); 
above  are  tables. 


-^^^ 


l^cft, 


^t- 


Rams  treading  in  the  seed. 


lililiMliiil-. 


Cattle  driven  tLrousjh  a  river. 


Dwarfs  with  ape  and  dogs. 


Captured  fish. 


The  **North  Side  of  the  tomb-chamber  (Plan,  p.  156)  is  adorned 
with  scenes  representing  life  in  the  marshes  of  the  Delta.  To  the 
left  (beginning  at  the  top)  :    Ti  superintending  fishing  and  bird- 

11* 


SAKKARA. 


Mastaba 


Peasant  women  vrith  offerings. 


ofTi.  SAKKAKA.  l.Koulc.    159 

snaring  (two  rows);  fisherman  shaking  flsli  from  a  kind  of  wicker 
bow-net  into  a  basket;  two  men  seated  at  a  small  table  cutting  up 
fish;  below,  cattle  pasturing;  a  cow  is  represented  calving,  another 
is  being  milked,  wliilc  an  overseer  leans  on  his  staff  close  by  and  a 
herdsman  grasping  a  calf  by  the  legs  prevents  it  running  to  its 
mother;  to  the  left,  calves  tethered  to  pegs  in  the  ground  try  to  tear 
themselves  free,  others  are  browsing;  to  the  right,  herdsmen  in 
small  papyrus  boats  drive  a  herd  of  cattle  across  a  river  in  which 
lurk  two  crocodiles;  to  the  left  are  two  dwarfs  with  their  master's 
pet  ape  and  a  leash  of  greyhounds. 

In  the  centre:  Ti  sailing  through  the  marshes  in  a  boat  of 
papyrus.  In  front  of  him  is  a  second  boat,  whose  crew  is  engaged 
in  hunting  hippopotami  with  harpoons,  near  which  a  hippopotamus 
bites  a  crocodile.  In  a  smaller  boat  behind  is  a  man  catching  a 
tish.  In  the  surrounding  papyrus-thicket  various  birds  are  sitting 
on  their  nests  or  fluttering  about.  —  To  the  right :  Boatmen  quar- 
relling and  lighting;  fishing;  tilling  the  ground,  a  man  ploughs 
with  two  oxen,  which  anotlier  man  drives  (note  the  shape  of  the 
plough),  a  third  man  breaks  the  clods,  while  a  fourth  is  sowing; 
close  by  is  a  scribe.  Rams  are  driven  over  the  newly-sown  ground 
to  tread  in  the  seed,  while  men  hoe  the  ground,  to  the  right.  Cattle, 
returning  from  pasturage  in  the  Delta,  are  driven  through  the 
water;  one  of  the  herdsmen,  in  front,  carries  a  young  calf  on  his 
shoulders. 

The  narrow  strip  running  along  the  entire  N.  wall  at  the  bot- 
tom consists  of  a  procession  of  36  peasant  women  bearing  sacri- 
ficial offerings  of  meat,  poultry,  vegetables,  fruits,  and  drink.  The 
different  figures  represent  the  various  estates  of  the  deceased  Ti, 
the  name  of  each  being  inscribed  beside  its  representative. 

The  *Tomb  of  Mereruka  is  another  grave  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 
It  is  situated  at  the  N.W.  angle  of  the  Pyramid  of  Teti  (p.  163 ),  which 
lies  to  theE.  of  Mariettas  house,  beyond  a  ruined  stone  pyramid.  The 
tomb  dates  from  the  beginning  of  the  6th  Dyn.  and  contains  31  rooms 
and  passages,  divided  into  three  sections,  of  which  that  marked  A  on 
the  plaTi  (p.  160)  belonged  to  Mereriiica,  that  marked  B  to  Hert- 
\ratet-khet^  his  wife,  and  that  marked  C  to  their  son  Meri-Teti.  The 
tablet  at  the  entrance  records  the  discovery  in  1893. 

Rooms  harkkd  A.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  Entrance:  Mereruka  and 
his  wife  (the  latter  on  a  small  scale).  To  the  right  in  the  entrance:  the 
artist  who  de.signcd  the  reliefs,  seated  before  an  easel,  painting  the  three 
seasons  of  the  Egyptian  year  (p.  Ixxiii),  represented  by  deities;  in  one 
hand  he  holds  a  shell  containing  colour,  and  in  the  other  a  pen,  while  a 
writing-apparatus  hangs  from  his  shoulder;  in  front  of  him  stands  his 
son  Khenu.  To  the  loft:  Mereruka,  before  whom  is  his  little  son  Mcri- 
Teli,  holding  a  lotus-stalk  and  a  bird;  beliind  Mereruka  appear  his  wife 
and  several  rows  of  attendants.  —  A  1.  N^.  Wall.  Mereruka,  in  a  papyrus 
boat  with  his  wife,  spearing  fish;  in  two  smaller  boats  are  men  harpooning 
ihrce  liippopotami;  in  the  reeds  are  birds  and  in  the  river  fish.  S.  Wall. 
Mereruka   hunting   in  the  marshes,   in  a  boat,  accompanied   by  his  wife. 


160   Route 


SAKKARA. 


Tornb  of 


,\ 

1 

\ti 

A2 

"In 
ij 

1  f''^' 

\ 

M 

A'^ 

The  details  are  beautifully  rendered  (birds,  lish,  etc.,  hippopotamns  with 
a  crocodile  in  its  mouth).  Below,  to  the  left,  cuttle  crossing  a  stream; 
above,  cattle  thrown  on  the  ground  in  order  to  be  slaughtered;  gardens 
heing  watered.  The  positions  of  the  cattle  arc  accurately  observed  and 
reproduced.  —  A  2  contains  the  mummy-shaft.  —  A3.  E.  ^yall.  Mereruka 
and  his  wife  (to  the  left)  inspecting  various  operations,  which  are  repre- 
sented in  six  rows.    In  the  two  lowest  rows  are  metal-workers  and  makers 

of  necklaces  and  ves- 
sels ;  in  the  3rd  row, 
three  statues  are  being 
drawn  to  the  tomb,  while 
a  priest  swings  a  censer  ; 
in  the  4th  row  are  car- 
penters making  bed- 
steads; and  in  the  5th 
row  are  men  making 
stoneware  vessels.  TV. 
Wall.  Mereruka  and  his 
wife,  accompanied  by 
attendants,  at  a  hunt  in 
the  desert;  desert  ;ini- 
mals ;  hound  seizing  an 
antelope;  lion  devour- 
ing a  bull;  hedgehogs; 
hares.  —ALE.  Wall. 
To  the  right,  Mereruka 
and  hiswife,  with  attend- 
ants, watching  the  cap- 
ture of  fish ;  the  fat 
brother  of  the  deceased 
is  shown  sailing  in  a 
boat  and  drinking  from 
a  cup;  to  the  left,  Mere- 
ruka and  his  wife;  be- 
fore them  are  servants, 
one  leading  a  monkey 
and  two  hounds  in  a 
leash.  W.  Wall.  To  the 
left  is  the  estate-office, 
a  hall  with  columns,  in 
which  the  clerks  sit, 
while  the  village-elders 
are  being  dragged,  not 
without  cudgelling,  to 
give  evidence  as  to  taxes 
(comp.  p.  155);  one  has 
been  stripped  and  is  be- 
ing beaten  at  a  whipping-post.  To  the  right,  Mereruka  and  his  wife  in- 
spect the  offering  of  sacrifices  to  the  statues  of  the  deceased.  —  A  5  con- 
tains no  reliefs.  —  Leaving  A  6-A  9  unvisited  for  the  present  (see  p.  161), 
we  turn  to  the  right  and  enter  — 

A  10,  the  roof  of  which  is  supported  by  four  pillars,  bearing  incised 
reliefs  of  the  deceased.  W,  Wall  (beginning  to  the  left).  Bedroom  scenes. 
Tlie  bed,  standing  beneath  a  canopy,  is  prepared  in  presence  of  Mereruka 
and  hiswife;  the  deceased,  along  with  his  wife,  who  plays  upon  a  harp, 
sits  upon  a  large  couch  with  lions'  feet,  beneath  which  are  two  rows  of 
vases  ;  Mereruka,  seated  in  an  easy  chair,  receives  gifts  of  various  kinds 
in  vases  and  boxes  from  his  retainers.  JV.  Wall.  Priests  of  the  dead  bring 
stands  loaded  with  meat  and  drink  to  the  deceased.  E.  Wall.  Mereruka 
and  his  wife,  with  attendants;  servants  bringing  sacrificial  gifts;  male 
and  female  dancers  (two  lowest  rows).  <S.  Wall.  The  deceased  receiving 
sacrificial  gifts.  —  A  11.  Only  a  few  reliefs  are  preserved  here,  together 
with   the  false  door  on  the  W.  Wall,  behind  which  is  a  Serdab.  —  A  12. 


Mereruka.  SAKKAUA.  7.  Route.    161 

iV.  ^Vall.  Tlic  deceased  receiving:  gifts;  in  the  second  row  from  the  liottoni 
arc  ten  barns  or  storehouses ;  in  tlie  lowest  row,  treading  grapes  and  press- 
ing the  trodden  grapes  in  a  sack.  On  the  other  walls  arc  the  deceased 
receivinsx  food  and  drink,  and  cattle  being  slaugbtered. 

*A  13,  the  sacrificial  chamber,  has  six  square  pillars,  on  which  Mere- 
ruka is  represented  standing.  In  the  middle  is  a  stone  ring  for  tethering 
the  sacrificial  ox.  iN''.  Wall.  In  a  recess  is  a  statue  of  Mereruka  (front  view), 
with  a  sacrificial  tablet  in  front.  Mural  reliefs  (from  right  to  left):  Mereruka 
inspecting  domestic  animals,  etc.  (in  the  top  row,  boat-building,  in  the  four 
lower  rows,  gazelles,  antelopes,  and  cattle,  in  the  lowest  row,  feeding 
tame  hyfenas);  the  aged  Mereruka  conducted  by  his  two  sons;  Mereruka 
in  a  sedan-chair,  with  a  large  retinue,  including  two  dwarfs  leading  dogs. 
W.  Wall  (much  damaged).  Ships.  S.  Wall  (bottom  row  only  preserved) 
Funeral:  entrance  to  the  tomb,  with  a  priest  and  dancers  in  front  of 
it;  tt)  the  left,  men  carrying  a  large  chest;  sacrificial  gifts;  fonr  ships, 
with  several  men  in  the  water;  the  funeral  procession  with  professional 
mourners  (very  graphic).  To  the  left  of  the  door,  the  deceased,  accom- 
])anied  by  two  women,  sails  in  a  boat  through  the  marshes;  crocodiles 
and  fish  in  the  water.  K  Wall.  To  the  right,  harvest  operations  in  pre- 
sence of  the  deceased  and  his  wife  and  mother.  To  the  left,  Mereruka 
and  his  wife  playing  draughts.  Over  and  beside  Vie  door  to  C  1 :  Mereruka, 
his  wife,  and  mother,  with  female  dancer.i*  and  musicians;  various  games. 
We  now  pa«s  through  a  doorway  of  modern  construction  and  enter  the  — 

Rooms  marked  C.  —  CI.  E.  Wall.  To  the  right,  poultry-yard,  fatten- 
ing geese;  to  the  left,  cattle  and  antelopes.  JV.  Wall,  Jleri-Teti,  son 
of  Mereruka.  receiving  .sacrificial  gifts  from  servants.  W.  Wall.  The  de- 
ceased vritnessing  a  hunt  in  the  desert:  gazelles  and  antelopes.  S.  Wall. 
Servants  witti  poultry  and  fish  as  sacrificial  gifts.  —  C  2  has  no  reliefs.  — 
C  3.  E.  Wall.  In  the  two  lowest  rows,  cattle  beinv:  slaughtered  for  sacrifice; 
in  the  upper  rows,  .Servants  bringing  gifts,  cattle,  gazelles,  etc.  ?f.  <t  5. 
WalU.  Meri-Teti  at  table;  servants  bringing  sacrificial  gifts.  W.  Wall.  False 
door,  with  the  deoe.ised's  name  inserted  in  place  of  an  earlier  one;  in  front 
is  an  altar.  —  C  4.  E.  Wall.  Men  bearing  large  chests  full  of  clothing  and 
vessels  to  Meri-Teti,  who  stands  on  the  left.  iV.  Wall.  In  the  centre,  the 
deceased;  at  the  sides,  servants  bringing  jars  and  bo.xes ;  to  the  right  large 
jars  are  being  brought  on  sledges.  W.  Wall.  Attendants  with  gifts  (un- 
finished); square  hole  leading  to  C  5,  the  Serdab.  /S.  Wall,  unfinished  (re- 
liefs similar  to  those  on  the  N.  wall).  —  We  now  return  to  A  13  and  turn- 
ing to  the  right  (W.)  enter  the  nnvisited  — 

Rooms  markkd  A  icontinucd).  A  14  leads  to  several  sfore-chambers 
(A  1.0  -  A  21),  only  about  3  ft.  high;  the  names  are  inscribed  above  the 
doors.  —  From  A  16  we  enter  .\  9.  W.  Wall.  In  the  centre  are  Mereruka 
and  his  wife,  to  the  right  and  left  are  servants  bearing  pieces  of  cloth, 
vessels  of  sacred  oil,  bo.ves  of  elothinz,  and  stands  of  ornaments;  a  sledge 
with  three  large  jars.  £.  Wall.  Similar  scenes.  —  A  8.  Beyond  the  false 
door  on  tlie  W.  Wall,  iti  front  of  which  stood  the  table  of  oflerings,  nothing 
of  interest.  —  A  6.  W.  Wall.  Feeding  of  poultry  (pigeons,  geese,  cranes). 
A  narrow  cleft  in  this  wall  leads  to  the  Serdab  (A  7),  in  which  a  painted 
statue  of  Mereruka  was  found.  S.  Wall.  To  the  left,  cattle,  antelopes,  etc., 
are  being  driven  before  the  deceased,  while  scribes  note  down  the  numbers  ; 
to  the  right,  peasant  women,  representing  villages  the  names  of  which 
are  inscribed,  bringing  gifts.  N.  Wall.  To  the  left,  the  slaughtering  of 
cattle,  to  the  right.  Mereruka  inspecting  his  fishermen. 

Rooms  marked  1'..  —  Bi.  Jf.  <C-  S.  Walls.  The  wife  of  Mereruka,  a 
princess,  receiving  various  gifts  from  her  attendants,  ll'.  Wall.  To  the  right, 
Jlereruka's  wife,  son,  and  daughter;  four  servants  bearing  a  litter  adorned 
with  lio'is;  to  the  left,  fishing  scene;  above,  capture  of  wild  bulls. — B  2. 
.Staircase.  —  B  3.  A^.  Wall  fto  the  left  of  the  door  leading  to  B  5).  Dancers. 
On  the  other  walls  arc  servants  bringing  food  for  the  deceased,  and  cattle.  — 
B  4.  Serdab  (inaccessible).  —  B  5.  W.  Wall.  In  the  centre  is  an  elaborate 
false  door,  iu  front  of  which  is  a  square  block  once  supporting  a  table 
of  offerings;   to  the  right  and  left  is  the  deceased  stt  table,   with  servant-s 


162    Route  7.  SAKKARA.  Street  of  Tombs. 

briiijiini;  fonci,  (lowers,  etc.  iV.  Wall.  Mereruka's  wife  arid  son  carried  by 
women  iu  a  litter  adorned  with  a  lion,  near  which  aro  three  dogs  and  a 
pet  ape.  On  the  other  walls,  Attendants  bringing  gifts  to  the  deceased  ; 
cattle  being  slaughtered.  —  B  6.  Empty. 

To  the  right  (E.)  of  Mereruka's  Tomb  lies  the  Mastaba  of 
Ke-gera-ni,  a  vizier  and  judge,  also  of  tlie  6tli  Dyn.  and  excavated  in 
1893.    The  paintings  here  are  of  inferior  interest. 

Room  I  (PI.  A).  On  the  left  wall.  Ke-gem-ni 
inspects  his  cattle  and  poultry ;  hyanas  are  being 
fed;  feeding  poultry;  bird  -  snaring.  On  the  right 
wall  the  deceased  inspects  the  fisheries;  the  cap- 
tured fish  are  recorded  and  carried  away.  Above 
the  door  tn  the  next  room  is  the  deceased  in  his 
litter.  —  Room  II  (PI.  B).  Ke-gem-ni  receiving  gifts 
from  his  attendants.  To  the  left  is  a  chamber  (PI.  C) 
in  which  figures  of  the  deceased  are  chiselled  out  at 
two  places.  —  Room  III  (PI.  D).  On  the  side-walls, 
Ke-gem-ni,  seated  in  a  chair,  receives  sacrificial 
gifts.  On  the  end-wall  is  the  false  door,  in  front  of 
which  was  the  table  of  offerings,  reached  by  a  flight 
of  steps.  — Room  IV  (PI.  E).  Two  representations  of 
Ke-gem-ni,  standing,  and  receiving  gifts  from  his 
attendants;  tables  with  vessels;  large  ointment-jars 
dragged  on  sledges. 

A  few  paces  to  tlie  E.  of  the  tomb  of  Ke-gem-ni,  and  to  tlie  N. 
of  tlic  Teti  pyramid  (p.  163),  is  a  Street  of  Tombs,  exhumed  by 
Loret  in  189'J  but  partly  covereil  up  again.  Several  interesting 
structures  of  the  6th  Dyn.  were  discovered  here.  The  first  Is  the 
somewhat  ruinous  tomb  of  Nefer-seshem-re ,  surnamed  ShesM^  a 
vizier  and  judge,  the  chief  remains  of  "which  are  a  hall  with  six 
square  pillars,  each  bearing  the  figure  of  the  deceased,  and  an  ele- 
gant false  door. 

The  first  tomb  on  the  left  in  the  Street  of  Tombs  proper  is  that 
of  *Enkh-7ne-Hor,  surnamed  Sesi,  also  called  the  'Tomb  of  the 
Physician'  on  account  of  the  surgical  operations  represented.  The 
upper  part  of  the  wall  has  been  destroyed. 

EooM  I.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance :  Farming  scenes,  including  a  re- 
presentation of  cattle  fording  a  river.  —  In  IlooM  II,  lying  behind  11.  I, 
the  deceased  is  represented  on  the  left  wall  inspecting  the  catching  of 
birds.  On  the  rear  wall  are  interesting  representations  of  statues  being 
prepared  fur  the  tomb.  In  the  doorway  to  the  next  room  is  represented 
the  slaughter  of  sacrificial  animals;  to  the  right,  the  attendants  arc  seen 
throwing  an  ox  to  the  ground.  —  The  Three  Followino  Rooms  contain  the 
customary  representations,  such  as  the  bringing  of  offerings  to  the  dead, 
and  the  slaughtering  of  cattle.  —  We  return  to  the  first  room  and  enter 
the  room  lying  to  one  side  of  it,  which  was  formerly  supported  by  five 
pillars.  In  the  doorway  are  representations  of  surgical  operations;  on 
the  right,  circumcision,  on  the  left,  an  operation  on  a  mans  toe.  On  the 
entrance-wall  of  the  Pillaeed  1!oom,  to  the  right,  are  representations  of 
attendants  and  women  bewailing  the  dead,  while  to  the  left  arc  dancers. 

The  next  tomb  belongs  to  Vze-he-Teti,  or  Nefer-seshem-Ftah, 
surnamed  Sheshi,  'the  first  next  to  the  king'. 

From  the  Entrance  Koom  we  proceed  through  a  door,  with  represent- 
ations of  attendants  and  sacrificial  animals,  into  a  Second  Chambek,  with 
some   fine   reliefs.      On   the   right  wall :   catching   of  wild   ducks   with    a 


MaHaba  of  Ftuhh'Aep.      .SAKKAKA.  7.  lioult.    163 

net;  iiliove,  a  poultry-yard,  uatchiut:  of  fowls,  feeding  of  eeeso  i  on  Ihe 
other  walls  are  attendants  with  sacrificial  gifts,  several  of  them  in  boats. 
—  On  the  W.  wall  of  the  Last  Room  is  the  false  door,  through  which  the 
deceased  is  twice  represented  as  emerging;  above  is  a  wiiubiw,  out  of 
which  he  is  lookiu;;;  in  front  is  the  tabic  of  olferings;  on  the  other  walls 
are  the  deceased  at  a  banquet,  attendants  with  gifts,  and  the  slaughtering 
of  lattle  for  an  offering  to  the  dead. 

If  in)t  pressed  for  time  the  traveller  may  now  ascend  to  tlie 
Pyramid  of  Teti,  to  the  E.  of  which  lie  the  scanty  ruins  of  the 
mortuary  temple.  Farther  to  the  E.  lies  a  chaos  of  huildings,  brought 
to  light  during  the  excavations  lately  carried  on  by  Mr.  Quibell  of  the 
Service  des  Antiquites  de  TEgypte,  and  dating  from  various  times 
from  the  Ancient  Empire  down  to  tlie  Greek  period.  The  oldest 
monuments  are  two  large  stone  mastabas,  belonging  to  the  Ancient 
Empire,  surmounted  by  brick  tombs  added  in  the  Middle  Empire. 
The  brick  wall  by  whii^h  these  are  surrounded  is  30-33  ft.  thick 
and  dates  from  the  Greek  period.  —  Close  by  is  the  House  of  the 
Service  des  Antiquiles.  In  front  of  this,  to  the  N.  and  E. ,  stretches 
a  cemetery  recently  excavated  by  Quiholl,  with  Brick  Ma^tahas  of 
the  2nd  and  3rd  Dynasties. 

The  niastaba  of  Ti  is  rivalled  in  beauty  by  tlie  reliefs  in  the 
**Mastaba  of  Ptahhotep,  which  lies  between  the  Onnos  Pyramid 
and  Mariette's  House ,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  tlie  latter.  It 
dates  from  the  period  of  the  5th  Dyn.,  under  which  the  deceased 
held  one  of  the  highest  offices  of  state. 

From  the  entrance  (A  on  the  Plan,  p.  164),  on  the  N.  side,  we 
enter  a  Corbiuor  (B),  on  the  right  of  which  is  the  Pillared  Hail 
(C),  a  large  square  apartment  with  its  roof  supported  by  four  pillars. 
A  door  in  the  S.E.  angle  admits  us  to  a  vestibule  (E),  beyond 
which  is  the  — 

Tomb-Ghamber  of  Ptahhotep  (F),  adorned  with  mural  reliefs 
tliat  are  among  the  highest  achievements  of  ancient  Egyptian  art  at 
its  zeivith  (p.  clxxiv).  The  colours  are  still  well  pftscrved.  The  ceil- 
ing imilales  the  trunks  of  palm-trees. 

Jn  the  Doorway :  Servants  with  sacrificial  gifts.  N.Wall:  over 
the  door,  Ptahhotep  at  his  morning  toilet,  with  his  greyhounds 
under  liis  chair  and  a  pet  ape  held  by  an  attendant;  in  front  of 
him  are  harpers  and  singers;  dwarfs  stringing  beads  (upper  row); 
officials  seated  on  the  ground  (next  two  rows);  harpers  and  flute- 
players  and  a  singer  beating  time  with  Ids  hands  (lowest  row). 
To  the  left  of  the  door  are  servants  with  gifts;  slaughter  of  the 
sacrificial  oxen.  —  \V.  Wall:  In  the  right  and  left  angles  are  false 
doors ;  that  on  the  right,  very  elaborate,  perhaps  representing  the 
facade  of  a  palace.  On  th»  left  door  (at  the  foot)  the  deceased  is 
represented  seated  in  a  chapel  (right)  and  boiiic  in  a  litter  (left);  in 
front  is  the  table  of  offerings.  The  wall-reliefs  represent  Ptahhotep 
seated  at  a  richly  furnished  banquet  (left);  before  him  are  priests 
making  offerings  (upper  row)   and  servants  bearing  various  gifts 


164 


Route 


SAKKARA.       Mastaba  of  Plahhotep. 


(three  lower  rows);  above  is  tlie  list  of  dishes.  —  On  the  S.  Wall 
is  a  similar  representation  of  the  deceased  at  table;  before  him  are 
peasant  women  with  gifts  (top  row;  injured);  in  tlio  second  row 
the  sacrificial  animals  are  being  cut  up;  in  the  lowest  two  rows  are 
servants  with  all  kinds  of  offerings.  —  The  representations  on  the 
E.  Wall  are  the  tiaest  and  most  interesting.    On  the  right  Ptahhotep 


inspects  the  'gifts  and  tribute  that  are  brought  by  the  estates  of  the 
N.  and  S.';  in  the  upper  row  are  boys  wrestling  and  seven  boys 
running  (the  first  having  his  arms  tied).  In  the  next  two  rows  are 
shown  the  spoils  of  the  chase:  four  men  drag  two  cages  containing 
lions,  a  man  carries  a  frame  loaded  with  young  gazelles,  bound 
together  in  groups,  another  has  cages  with  hares  and  hedgehogs. 
lu  the  fourth  row  are  herdsmen  and  cattle  in  the  fields,  the  calves 


i  iirainid  of  King  Onno<.     SAKKAUA.  '.Route.    IbO 

being  tethered  to  pegs ;  in  tiie  two  following  row  s  cattle  are 
bronght  for  inspection  (note  the  lame  herdsman  leading  a  bull  with 
a  neek-ornanient) ;  in  the  lowest  row,  poultry.  On  the  left  Ptahhotep 
is  shown  'contemplating  all  tiie  pleasant  diversions  that  take  place 
throughout  the  country';  in  the  top  row  a  herd  of  cattle  is  being 
driven  tliroiigh  a  marsh,  and  men  are  engaged  in  plucking  papyrus 
plants,  tying  them  in  bundles,  and  carrying  them  away;  in  the 
second  row  are  boys  playing;  the  vintage  is  represented  in  the 
third,  with  vines  upon  trellises,  watered  by  a  servant,  while  others 
gather  the  grapes  and  tread  them  in  the  wine-press  or  crush  them 
in  sncks;  the  fourth  and  fifth  rows  are  devoted  to  animal  life  and 
liunting  in  the  desert;  in  the  sixth  are  men  labouring  in  the  marsh, 
cleaning  fish,  and  making  ropes  and  papyrus  boats;  in  the  seventh 
row  are  fowlers  with  nets  and  other  men  placing  the  captured  birds 
in  boxes  and  bearing  them  away ;  in  the  lowest  row  are  peasants  in 
boats  upon  the  Nile,  with  plants  and  fishes;  some  of  the  peasants 
are  fighting.  In  the  boat  to  the  left  appears  Enkh-en-Ptah,  sculptor- 
in-cliief,  receiving  a  drink  from  a  boy ;  this  is  doubtless  the  artist 
who  designed  the  reliefs  and  has  here  immortalized  himself. 

We  now  return  to  the  Pillared  Hall  and  pass  tlirough  a  door  in 
the  W.  wall  into  the  Chapel  of  Ekhet-hotet  (^D),  a  son  of  Ptah- 
hotep. To  the  right  and  left  arc  representations  of  the  deceased  at 
a  banquet,  with  servants  bringing  him  sacrificial  gifts.  On  the  W. 
wall  is  a  false  door,  with  a  large  table  of  offerings. 

From  the  mastaba  of  Ptahhotep  a  path  leads  to  the  S.E.  to 
(I/3  M.)  the  *Pyramid  of  King  Onnos  or  TJnis  (p.  c\  which  may 
easily  be  climbed  without  assistance.  The  view  from  the  top  repays 
the  exertion:  to  the  N.  are  the  Pyramids  of  Abusir  and  Gizeh;  to  the 
S.,  those  of  Sakkara  and  Dahshiir;  and  to  the  E.,  the  Step  Pyramid 
and  the  palm-groves  and  fields  of  Sakkara  and  Mit  Kahineh. 

Iktekior.  The  pyramid  was  ojiencd  in  1S81  and  is  accessible  to  visit- 
ors (apply  to  the  keeper;  admission  tickets,  see  p.  142).  A  sloping  Passage, 
the  mouth  of  which  was  formerly  covered  by  the  pavement,  runs  from 
the  middle  of  the  N.  side  to  an  AnUchrtmber,  beyond  which  a  straight 
Corridor,  originally  Mocked  at  the  farther  end  by  three  trap-doors,  leads 
to  a  Central  Chamber,  with  the  7b;»6  Chamber  on  the  right  (AV.)  and  another 
Small  Room  on  the  left  (E.).  The  last,  which  was  originally  closed  by  a 
slab  of  stone,  has  a  flat  roi.f  and  three  recesses,  while  the  central  chamber 
and  the  tomb-chamber  have  ]<ointed  roofs  and  walls  covered  with  inscrip- 
tions, the  so-called  pyramid-text-:.  These  hieroglyphics  arc  cut  into  the 
stone  and  filled  with  blue  pigment.  They  relate  to  the  life  beyond  the 
tomb  anil  are  the  oldest  religious  Egyi)tian  texts  known.  The  granite  sarco- 
plia-ius  of  the  king  stands  in  the  tomb-chamber,  close  to  the  W.  wall.  To 
the  right  and  left  arc  false  doors  of  alabaster. 

Tlie  small  Mortuary  Temple,  which  stood  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
pyramid,  has  recently  been  excavated  by  the  Egyptian  Service  des 
Antiquitcs,  but  is  much  dilapidated.  It  contained  a  court  with 
palm-columns  (see  p.  83),  of  which  fragments  V.c  scattered  about.  At 
the  foot  of  the  pyramid,  probably  on  the  site  of  the  inner  sanctuary, 
are  some  vestiges  of  a  false  door  of  granite. 


166   Route  7.  SAKKARA. 

On  the  S.  side  of  tlie  Pyramid  of  Oniios  are  three  Shaft  Tombs 
OF  THE  Persian  Epoch,  all  of  similar  arrangement.  A  vertical 
square  shaft  descends  to  a  chamber  constrncte<l  of  blocks  of  stone, 
at  the  bottom  of  a  larger  shaft  sunk  for  the  purposes  of  constractioii 
and  then  again  filled  in.  These  tombs  are  now  accessible  by  a  spiral 
staircase  and  are  connected  with  each  other  by  tunnels. 

The   descent   is    somewhat  toilsome.     The   shaft,    72  ft.    deep,    leads 
via  a  corridor  16  ft.  long   to  the  v;nilted  fomh-cliamber  of  the    physician 
Psamlik,   a    conteuipurary    of  Darius  I.     The  walls  are  decorated  with  re- 
ligious  inscriptions.     The   lid   of  the   lar'^e  limestone  coffin  is  raised  and 
the   arrangement  for  lowering  it  is  plainly  visible.     This  coffin  contained 
.a  smaller  one  of  basalt  and.  like  those  iu  the  twt)  other  tombs,  is  let  into 
the  floor.  —  To  the  W.  is  a  modern  tunnel,  lending  to  the  tomb-shaft  and 
sarcophagus-chamber  of  the  royal  admiral  Zen/iehii  (comp.  p.  99),  which  con- 
tains some  beautifully  carved  inscriptions.  — Towards  the  E.  we  descend  ! 
by  steps  to  the  shaft  (88  ft.  deep)  and  the  chamber  of  Pete-ese.    The  walls ', 
are  decorated  with  inscriptions  in  fine,  low  relief,  the  colouring  of  which 
is  well  preserved,  and  with  representations  of  sacrificial  gifts.   The  vaulted^ 
roof  is  covered  with  coloured  stars  upon  a  white  ground.  ; 

If  time  permit  the  traveller  may  now  proceed  to  tlie  S.  Pyramids  ', 
of  Sakkdra,   a  ride  of  174hr.  to  the  S.  from  Mariette's  House.    We" 
pass  near  a  piece  of  ground  about   440  yds.  square,   enclosed  by' 
broad  and  massive,  but  now  very  dilapidated  walls  on  the  E.,  N.,  i 
and  W.  sides,  while  the  S.  side  is  bounded  by  the  natural  hills  of 
the  desert.  The  route  leads  thence  straight  to  the  Mastabat  el-Fara'6n, 
the  most  interesting  monument  in  the  S.  group.    To  the  left  are 
the  dilapidated  Pyramids  of  Phiops  I.  and  Merenre  and  a  pyramid 
called  by  the  Arabs  El-Haram  esh-Showwaf.    On  the  N.W.  (r.)  side 
of  the  Mastabat  el-Fara'6u  is  the  Pyramid  of  Phiops  II.    All  these 
pyramids  (now  inaccessiblel  are  constructed  and  adorned  exactly  in 
the  same  manner  as  that  of  King  Onnos  (p.  165).   The  Maslabat  el- 
Fara'on  resembles  in  its  shape  some  of  the  mastabas  of  the  Middle 
Empire.    The  passages  in  the  interior  resemble  those  iu  the  pyr- 
amids of  Onnos  and  his  successors,  so  that  this  monument  may 
probably  enough  be  a  king's  grave,   as  its  name  implies   ('grave 
of   Pharaoh').     The  top,    which    is   easily    reached,    commands  a 
fine  view. 

About  IVa  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Mastabat  el-P"ara'on  lie  the  Necropolis  and 
Pyramids  of  Dahshur.  Here  vise  two  large  pyramids  and  a  smaller  one  of 
limestone  and  two  of  brick  (El-Ahrcim  es-SM,  the  'Black  Pyramids'),  together 
with  remains  of  others,  all  of  which  are  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
each  other.  The  y.  Brick  Pyramid.,  which  was  once  covered  with  slabs  of 
stone,  is  probably  the  tomb  of  King  Sesostris  III.  (I2th  Dyn.).  The  length 
of  the  side  at  the  base  is  344  ft.,  while  the  height  is  now  only  about  90  ft. 
To  the  N.  of  this  pyramid,  but  within  the  girdle-wall  that  formerly  en- 
closed it,  are  two  subterranean  galleries  with  tomb-chambers  in  which 
female  members  of  the  royal  family  were  interred.  The  jewels  found 
here  are  now  in  the  Cairo  Museum  (p.  97). 

To  the  S.W.  of  the  N.  Brick  Pyramid  lies  a  larger  Stone  Pijramid. 
This  is  still  325  ft.  in  height  and  709  ft.  in  width,  being  nearly  as  large 
as  the  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh  (p.  127),  and  in  its  solitude  presents  a 
very  imposing  appearance.  Lfke  the  Pyramid  of  Meidum  (p.  205)  it  was 
bniit  by  Snofru,  and  is  thus  the  most  ancient  roval  tomb  in  the  form  of 
a   pyramid. 


HELWAN.  8.  Route.    167 

To  the  E.  is  the  ruintlus  pyramid  oi  Amenemhet  JI.  (I2th  Dyn.)i  while 
to  the  E.  and  S.  are  remains  of  several  other  pyramids.  Still  farther  to 
the  S.  rises  a  pyramid  of  peculiar  form,  sometimes  called  the  Blunted 
Pyramid  or  Pyramid  of  the  Two  AngUt,  the  lower  part  rising  at  an  angle 
of  54°  41',  while  the  sides  of  the  apex  form  an  angle  of  42°  59'.  This  pyr- 
amid is  6l8'/'j  ft.  square  and  319  ft.  in  height.  The  exterior  coating  is 
in  good  preservation  and  gives  a  very  good  notion  of  the  former  super- 
ficial appearance  of  the  pyramids.  The  interior  was  explored  as  early  as 
tlie  year  1G()0  by  an  English  traveller  named  Melton.  In  186(3  Le  Brnn 
found  a  small  chamber  in  the  interior.  No  clue  to  the  name  of  the  builder 
has  been  discovered.     To  the  S.  is  the  pyramid  of  the  queen. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Blunted  Pyramid  and  a  few  kilometres  to  the  S.  of 
the  N.  Brick  Pyramid,  near  the  village  of  Menshiyeh,  which  lies  on  the 
edge  of  the  desert  to  the  N.  of  Dahshur,  rises  the  S.  Brick  Pyramid.  This, 
which  was  originally  covered  with  limestone  slal)s,  was  perhaps  built  by  King 
Amenemhet  lU.  (12th  Dyn.).  To  the  N.  of  it,  but  enclosed  by  the  former 
girdle-wall,  are  the  graves  of  King  ffor  (pp.  8i,  98)  and  Princess  Neb- 
lietepti-khrol  (p.  98). 


8.  Baths  of  Helwan. 

Light  Railway  to  (17  JI.)  Ilelwan  via  Tura  in  29-44  min.;  31  trains 
daily  from  Cairo.  Return-tickets,  1st  el.  8,  'ind  cl.  5  pias.  First-class  day 
return-ticket  including  luncheon  at  the  Grand-Hotel  Helouan,  25  pias. ; 
tickets  may  be  procured  in  the  hotels  of  the  Nungovich  Co.  (p.  35).  — 
There  is  also  a  picturesque  Road  from  Cairo  to  Helw.nu  (comp.  p.  101), 
much  used  by  motorists. 

The  trains  start  from  the  Bab  el-Lvk  Station  (PI.  B,  5)  and 
follow  the  direction  of  the  Sharf  el-Mansur.  Beyond  the  stations 
of  Seiyideh  Zeinah  (PI.  T'.,  7)  and  St.  (ieorges  (for  Old  Cairo,  p.  106) 
the  railway  traverses  the  narrow  plain  on  the  V).  bank  of  the  Nile, 
generally  on  the  honndary  between  tlie  cultivated  land  and  the 
desert.  —  At  El-Ma'<'idi  (Meadi)  are  a  new  villa-colony  and  an  un- 
finished rifle-factory.  To  the  rig;ht,  beyond  Tura,  are  the  'Egyptian 
Army  Bakery  &  Supply  Stores'  and  a  penitentiary ;  about  1  '/■>  M.  to 
the  left  are  the  quarries  (p.  170).  On  the  hill  stand  the  ruins  of  an 
old  fort.  —  Mn'sara,  a  village  on  the  Nile.  —  The  line  leaves  the 
Nile  and  ascends  along  the  slopes  of  the  Gebel  Tura  to  — 

17  M.  Eelw&n  (Plan,  see  p.  169).  —  Hotels  &  Pensions.  "HdTEL 
Al-Hatat  (PI.  c;  C,  2),  on  the  Mokattam  plateau  to  the  E.  of  the  town, 
5  min.  from  tlie  station,  with  central  heating,  terrace,  and  garden,  pens. 
fri)m  8(1,  motor-omnibus  2  pi:is. ;  'Tewfik  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  n;  A,  1),  in 
a  former  khedivial  mansion,  refitted  in  1911,  with  central  heating  and 
garden,  open  all  the  year  round,  pens,  from  (50,  motor-omn.  5  pias.;  'Grand- 
Hotel  Hklouan  (PI.  a;  A,  B,  2),  the  proi>erty  of  the  George  Nungovich 
Co.  (p.  3o),  opposit(!  the  casino,  with  garden  and  terrace,  pens.  60-100, 
motor-omn.  2  pias.;  'Hotel  de.s  I'.ains  (PI.  b,  B  3;  same  proprietors), 
near  the  Bath  House,  a  quiet  family  hotel  with  veranda  and  garden,  pens. 
40-55  pias.;  Hotel-Pension  Hkltzel  (PI.  d;  B,  2),  open  all  the  year  ronnd, 
pens.  45-5(1  pias.;  Esiinsii  Winter  Hotel  (ifi«.?  Docid ;  PI.  e,  B  2),  with 
garden,  pens.  40-60  pias.;  Hot.-Pens.  *  Villa  Antonio  (PI.  g;  B,  3),  with 
garden,  pens.  40-50  pia.-^. ;  H6t.  Clakemont  (PI.  f;  B,  3);  Sphinx  (PI.  h  ;  B,  3), 
open  all  the  year  round,  pens,  from  40  pias.;  Villa  Wanda  (PI.  i,  B3; 
'Uatsha  Vanda';  Russian),  pens.  10-15  fr.,  very  fair.  —  Invalid  cooking  and 
diet  on  request  at  any  of  the  hotels  or  pensions.  —  Furnished  Apartments 
(previous  arrangement  necessary),   fE  10-20  per  month.   —  Csife.     Cqf^- 


168   Route  8.  HELWAN. 

Restaurant  San  Giovanni,  on  the  Nile  at  Old  Iletwan  (p.  169),  belonging  to 
the  Hot.  Al-IIayat  (mutor-omn.). 

Sanatoria.  Frau  Dr.  Urbahn''s  Sanatorium  (PI.  o;  B,  3),  pens,  from  iOs. 
according  to  room,  open  from  Nov.  to  May;  Sanatorium  Jisn  (PI.  1,  C2; 
Dr.  Glam);  Dr.  Preminger^s  Zander  Institute  (PI.  m;  C,  2);  Dr.  Kuschnh's 
(PI.  q;  B,  3),  for  kiduey-dise  ^se-;. 

Physicians.  Dr.  H.  Overton  Ilobson  (medical  saperintendent  of  the  Balli 
Ususej;  Drs.  /lerninger,  Brodski,  I'reminger  (Germans);  Dr.  Qlanz  (German 
lluosian).  —  Ladt  Dentist,  Dr.  Marie  D.  Olanz.  —  Dkugoists.  New  Anglu- 
Oerman  Dispensary,  opposite  the  station;  Anglo- Egyptian  Fharmacy;  Inter- 
national Pharmacy. 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  P.  O. ;  B,  2). 

Carriages  at  the  station  (fares  according  to  tariff).  —  Donket,  5piaa. 
per  hr.,  20  pias.  per  day. 

Churches.  St.  Paulas  (PI.  A,  2),  Rue  Ch^rif  Pacha,  anglican  services 
at  8.30,  11,  &  6  o'clock.  —  Roman  Catholic  Church  (PI.  B,  2),  belonging  to 
the  Missionaires  de  TAfriiiue  Centrale.  —  German  Lutheran  Church  (PI.  C,  2). 

—  Greek  Orthodox  (PI.  A,  2)  and  Greek  Catholic  Churches. 

Golf  Course  (Pi.  A,  1),  laid  out  in  the  desert,  with  18  holes,  club- 
house, and  professional.  There  is  also  a  Ladies^  Course,  with  9  holes.  — 
Tennis  Codrts  at  the  Grand-Hotel  (p.  167)  and  tlie  Hotel  Al-Hayat  (p.  167). 

—  Driving,  Riding,  and  Cycling  are  likewise  favourite  pursuits. 

Coinp.  'Helouan,  an  Egyptian  Health  Resort',  by  H.  Orerton  Ilobson,  M.D. 
(1906).  The  visitor  should  provide  himself  also  with  Prof.  G.  SchweinfurVi  s 
map  of  the  'Environs  of  llelwau'  ('Aufnahmen  in  der  ostlichen  Wuste  von 
iTigypten,  Blatt  V;  scale  l":  30,0J0). 

JJelwdn,  French  Helouan -les- Bains,  an  artificial  oasis  in  the 
desert,  3  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Nile  and  115  ft.  ahove  the  average 
water  level,  is  situated  on  a  plateau  enclosed  by  steep  limestone 
hills  from  N.W.  to  S.E.  and  has  about  8000  inhabitants.  Helwan 
has  hitherto  had  a  very  prosperous  existence.  This  it  owes  partly 
to  its  thermal  springs,  partly  to  its  climate.  The  sulphur  and  saline 
springs,  which  were  made  available  for  sanatory  purposes  in  1871-72, 
have  a  temperature  of  91"  Fahr.  and  resemble  those  of  Harrogate 
and  Aix-les-Bains  Iti  their  ingredients.  They  are  efficacious  in 
cases  of  rheumatism,  lumbago,  sciatica,  neuritis,  and  gout.  The  dry 
and  warm  climate  is  specially  adapted  for  rheumatic  and  kidney 
diseases,  and  for  all  cases  in  which  cold  and  damp  should  be 
avoided  (comp.  also  p.  xxii}.  Between  Nov.  and  Feb.  rain  falls  for  a 
few  hours  only  at  Helwan,  and  the  atmosphere  is  free  from  all  per- 
ceptible moisture.  The  mean  temperature  in  winter  is  61°  5'  Fahr., 
with  a  daily  range  of  21°  (51-72°).  The  amount  of  daily  sunshine 
averages  8  hrs.  and  the  fall  of  temperature  after  sunset  is  very  slight. 
In  consequence  of  the  rocky  soil  and  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun, 
the  air  is  extraordinarily  pure,  dustless,  and  bracing. 

The  Bath  Establishment  (Bains;  PI.  B,  3),  in  the  Moorish  style, 
built  by  the  Egyptian  government  in  1899  and  rebuilt  in  1911  by 
the  George  Nungovich  Co.,  the  present  lessees,  is  excellently  equip- 
ped. It  contains  immersion-baths  with  fresh  and  sulphur  water, 
electric  baths,  hot-air  baths,  vapour  baths,  etc.  There  are  two  swim- 
ming baths  with  stilplniro-saline  water,  one  (90  ft.  long)  for  ladies 


H  EL  WAN.  8.  Route.    169 

and  one  (12U  It.  long)  for  gentlemen.   There  are  arrangements  also 
for  massage  and  snn  and  air  baths. 

To  the  N.E.  of  Hehvan,  on  the  plateau,  stands  the  AslronomicaL  ij' 
Meteorological  Observatory  (PI.  C,  1;  adm.  3.30-5  on  Wed.  from 
Oct.  1st  to  April  30th).   Adjacent  is  the  Reservoir. 


.1^ 


^  a-^ 


boLQiT  b 


Square  j._^ 
'brahim 


■B   .if.     4ii  fc  i;   ^J-  a^c  hj^^ 


I/,    e ^      A    b   d    \.e    I — -JE    a^hx  i 


^h  •^_ 


tiiitUiii:BiiuAar^     Square 
^,       i^    Isnuiil 


t^^^^^l 


'f^A\r^TTm;- 


■Wifnei  A  Bsbes  Lnpjig 


llelwan  is  within  easy  reach  of  Cairo.  Excursions  may  be  made 
to  the  gorge-like  valleys  of  the  desert  and  to  Sakkara,  while  the 
banks  of  the  Nile  afford  good  wild-fowl  shooting.  —  I'leasant  drives 
(cair.,  p.  168)  may  be  taken  to  the  village  of  Old  Helwan  (comp. 
PI.  A,  3  ;  Restaurant  San  Giovanni,  p.  168),  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  Nile,  to  the  Frincesa's  Garden  at  the  chateau  of  the  Khedive's 
mother,  and  along  the  new  road  to  Cairo. 


170  RouUS  WADI  HOF. 

The   quarries    of  Ka'sara    and  Tura    are    reached    from   Helvrin   in 

1' .';  hr.'s  <lonkeT-ride  •,  a  guide  and  caniiles  are  necessary.  These  quarries, 
which  are  still  worked,  yielded  the  fine  white  limestone  used  for  the 
outer  coaling  of  pyramids  and  ma^tabas  and  other  ancient  buildinss  down 
to  the  Ptolemaic  period.  The  stone  is  transporied  to  the  hank  of  the 
Xile  by  means  of  tramways,  carts,  camels,  and  mules.  The  .trabs  of 
the  present  day  quarry  the  stone  on  the  outside  of  the  racky  slopes 
only,  while  the  quarrymen  of  the  Pharaohs  penetrated  int  ■  the  interior  of 
the  mountain  and  excavated  large  chambers  when  they  c^me  to  service- 
able stone.  The  roofs  are  supported  by  pillars  of  rock.  A  few  inscrip- 
tiotts,  recording  the  opening  of  new  halls  in  the  quarrie^s,  some  demotic 
inscriptions,  and  reliefs  iXinss  Amenemhet,  Amosis,  Amenophis  III.,  Kek- 
tanebes)  are  still  preserved.  The  Egyptians  named  these  the  quarries 
of  Eoyu  (or  T-royu).  which  the  Greeks  corrupted  into  Troja.  while  Strabo 
relate^;  that  the  village  beside  the  quarried!  was  'an  ancient  residence  vf 
captive  Trojans  who  had  followed  Menelaus  to  Egypt  and  remained  there'. 

From  Helwan  an  excur>i_in  to  the  -Wadi  Hof  (oomr.  PI.  C,  1),  with 
its  picmresqne  scenery,  curious  fossils,  and  remsrkable  desert-ve.g<et3tion, 
which  is  finest  after  rain,  may  be  made  in  i;  day  either  by  >-arri»ge 
or  by  donkey  «10piiks.).  We  ride  or  drive  across;  the  plateau  to'  the  X.E.. 
l^issing  the  ob.ierva-ory  (p.  16?',  and  join  the  old  caravan-rou-.e  to  Suee. 
At  the  Steindorff  Hill  (shown  on  Sehweinfurihs  n^ap)  we  descend  into 
the  valley,  the  manifoM  and  picturesque  windings  of  which  we  follow. 
Visitors  must  quit  their  CArria^es  before  beginning  the  descent,  but  rejoin 
them  at  ihe  end  of  the  valley,  whence  they  drive  lack  t  Helwan.  To 
the  right-  at  the  beginning  of  the  descent,  are  some  ancient  Egyptian 
Quarri^.  The  places  where  the  hr.ts  of  the  labourers  stood  are  easily 
recognizable.    To  the  left,  on  the  rock,  is  a  partly  effaced  figure  of  a  king'. 

Another  very  pleasant  excursi  n  may  be  made  "o  the  Widi  Bisheid, 
which  lies  to  the  S.E.  of  Helwan  (to  the  end  of  the  valley  l>Shr5.;  guide, 
water,  and  provisi-  ns  necessary  .  The  valley  c  nirac  s  un;il  it  finally 
becomes  a  very  picturesque  go-ge.  at  the  ei.d  of  which  several  pools  known 
K>  the  Beduins  rise  in  sta.es  one  above  the  other. 

About  7  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Helwan  is  the  "Wadi  Gerrani,  a  desert  ravine 
running  E.  and  W.  between  abrupt  lime.'^tOTie  cliffs.  Prof.  Schweinfnrth 
discovered  here  the  remains  of  a  large  Pom  of  masonry,  rrobably  erected 
under  the  E;orly  Empire  t<>  arrest  the  water  dowing  down  the  ravine  in 
rainy  winters  and  so  tK>  provide  drinking-water  for  the  workmen  employed 
in  the  slabaster  quarries,  2'/i  M.  to  the  E.  It  consists  of  an  embankment. 
33  ft.  high.  300-200  il.  long,  snd  150  ft.  thick,  stretching  across  the  rarine, 
and  constructed  of  solid  masonry  faced  with  limestone  slabs  on  the  E.  side. 
Remains  of  the  stone  huts  of  the  workmen  were  found  close  by. 

The  excursion  from  Helwan  to  Sdtldra  takes  a  whole  day.  We  ride 
to  Old  Helwan  and  thence  ferry  across  the  ITile  to  Be^drofhein.  TraTCllers 
are  carried  ashore  on  the  backs  of  the  Arabs.  Thence,  see  p.  143.  Don- 
kevs  can  le  hired  at  Bedrashein. 


9.    From  Cairo  to  Mansnra  via  Belbeis  and  Zakazik. 

92  M.  Kailwat  in  4-4S  ^iirj.;  four  ;r.iin?  daily  .fares  1st  d.  do.  ih>d  d. 
32  pias.X  —  The  route  via  Tanta  (comp.  pp.  34,  33,  174,  IToi  is  shorter  and 
pleasanter. 

From  Cairo  to  [^^'-2  M.")  J^aiJ/w^,  see  p.  34.  —  Beyond  Kalyub  the 
main  line  to  Alexandria  ^^K.  31  diverges  to  the  left.  Out  train  turns 
towards  the  N.E.  and  traverses  a  feiriie  district.  —  13*  j  M.  Na'xa. 
—  QOM.  Shibm  el-Kcinaiir  (Chibine  fJ- Kanater.  Shelin  d-Qanaier). 
a  district-capital,  connected  with  Cairo  .^Iso  l>y  the  branch-line  men- 
tioned on  p.  1'20. 


ZAKA^IK.  ».  fioute.    171 


Aliimt  1'/;  II.  to  the  S.E.  of  Shibin  cl-Kanulir  is  the  ruined  site  of 
Tall  el-Yehiidiyeh  (Uillof  the  Jews),  the  ancient  Leontonpoli*.  Ramscs  111. 
erected  a  temple  here,  covered  with  glazed  mosaic  tiles,  most  of  which 
are  now  in  the  Cairo  Mtiseam.  Their  tolourins  is  produced  partly  by 
variations  in  the  glazing  and  partly  by  the  use  of  separate  inlaid  pieces 
of  glass.  At  a  later  date  (170  B.C.)  a  Jewish  high -priest  named  Onias, 
aided  by  Ptolemy  Philometor.  erected  a  temple  after  the  model  of  the 
Temple  of  .Solomon  for  his  countrymen  who  had  been  expelled  from 
Jerosalem  by  the  .Syrian  party.  A  visit  to  the  ruins  scarcely  repays  the 
trouble,  as  most  of  them  are  auain  buried  in  rubbish. 

Light  Railwats  ran  from  Shibin  to  the  X.W.  to  TOkfi  (p.  34)  and  Beltdn 
fp.  173>,  and  to  the  8.  to  Kvfr  IJamza. 

29  M.  Inshas.  —  36  M.  Tielhtis  lies  on  the  old  caravan  road 
from  Cairo  to  the  East. 

Light  Eauwats  feom  Bklbeis:  1.  To  Mina  el-Kamh  (p.  181).  —  2.  To 
Abu  Hamm&d  (p.  181)  and  Ahu  Kebir  (p.  172). 

"We  now  approach  the  Fresh  Water  Canal  (p.  180).  —  Beyond 
(41 '/2  M)  Burdein  we  cross  the  F.jkus  Canal  (f.  172).  To  the  right, 
short  of  Zakazjk,  appear  the  mins  of  Buhastis  (see  below). 

48  M.  Zakazik  (Buffet).  The  other  .station,  on  the  line  from  Benha 
to  Isma'iliTeh,  is  reached  by  a  subway.  —  Hotels.  SOUl  Bot/al,  Eden 
Palace.,  H6t.  des  Vovageurt,  tliree  modest  inns  in  the  main  street. 

Bbitish  Cossulak  Agest,  G.  Diacono.  —  Basks.  National  Bank  of  Egypt; 
Anglo- Egyptian  Bank;  Baitque  cTADtinu. 

Seevices  at  the  cha^iel  of  xht  Ainei-ican  Ifittion  (see  below);  al.^o  angli- 
can  services  once  monthly. 

Zakaz'ik  (Zaqatii)  or  Zagatiij,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Shar- 
klyeJi  and  the  seat  of  a  mudir,  is  a  thriving,  semi-European  town, 
with  (1911)  40,000  inhabitant*.  Its  situation  on  the  Muwls  (Muweis 
or  Moez)  Canol  (the  ancient  Tanitic  arm  of  the  Nile,  from  which 
the  Mashldt  Canal  here  diverges  to  the  N.),  in  the  midst  of  a  fertile 
district,  is  extremely  favourable  and  has  largely  contributed  to  the 
prosperity  of  the  town,  which  is  the  chief  centre  of  the  Egyptian 
cotton  and  grain  trade.  Many  European  merchants  have  offices  here, 
and  the  large  cotton  factories  give  parts  of  the  town  an  almost  Euro- 
pean appearance.  The  American  Mission  maintains  a  girU'  school 
here.    A  market  is  held  every  Tuesday. 

Light  Railways  fkom  ZakazIk  :  1.  To  Sinbeldain  fp.  172).  —  2.  To 
ifU  Gftamr  (p.  174)  via  KatUiydt'(El-'Qanaiat ;  p.  172)  and  Sahragl  (p.  173). 

About  iVi  M.  to  the  S.E.  ol  Zakazik,  on  the  Tell  Bhtta,  lie  the  ruins 
of  the  ancient  Bubastis  I  Egyptian  Per-Batle;  ibe  Pi-hutth  ol  tzekiel  ,xxx.  17j, 
the  capital  of  the  Bubastite  nome.  Some  of  the  remains  of  the  brick 
walls  of  the  houses  are  of  considerable  height.  The  temple  of  Bastet,  the 
patron-goddess  of  the  town,  at  the  S.W.  foot  of  the  hill,  was  excavated 
in  1887-89  by  Xaville,  at  the  expense  of  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund; 
but  the  remains  (granite  bb<ck.=,  columns,  architraves,  etc.,  some  with 
inscriptions,  and  a  few  statues)  are  in  too  mimms  a  state  to  repay  a 
visit.  The  temple,  begun  by  the  pyramid-builders  Kheops  and  Khephren, 
underwent  frequent  alterations  at  the  hands  of  Ramsi-s  11.  and  other  later 
kings,  but  owed  its  final  form  to  the  monarchs  of  the  22nd  Dyn.,  who 
resided  at  Bubasti;!.  and  to  Xeklancbes  (Kekht-IIar-ehbet).  At  this  period 
it  consisted  of  four  large  halls,  of  an  aggregate  length  nf  ©Xlft.;  and 
in  these  were  celebrated  the  joyous  and  licentious  festivals  in  honour  of 
Bastet.  -When  the  Egyptians  travel  to  Bubastis'.  says  Herodotus,  'they 
do  so  in  this  manner.  Men  and  women  sail  together,  and  in  each  boat 
t!i>-re  are  many  persons  of  both  sexes.     Some  of  the  women  make  a  noise 


172   Route  .9.  T^NIS.  From  Cairo 

with  rattles,  and  some  of  the  men  blow  pipes  during  the  whole  journey, 
while  the  other  men  and  women  sing  and  clap  their  hands.  If  they  pass 
a,  town  on  the  way,  they  lay  to,  and  some  of  the  women  land  and  shout 
and  mock  at  the  women  of  the  place,  while  others  dance  and  make  a 
disturbance.  They  do  this  at  every  town  that  lies  on  the  Nile;  and  when 
they  arrive  at  Bubastis  they  begin  the  festival  with  great  sacriQces,  and 
on  this  occasion  more  wine  is  consumed  than  during  the  whole  of  the  rest 
of  the  year.  The  natives  assert  that  men  and  women  to  the  number  of 
700,000,  besides  children,  make  the  annual  pilgrimage  hither.' 

Beyond  Zakazik  we  cross  the  line  to  Isma'iliyeh  and  Port  Sa'id 
and  follow  the  E.  hank  of  the  M\iwis  Canal.  The  country  is  fertile. 
56  M.  Hehiyeh  {Hehia;  to  IhrdJumtyeh,  see  belovs'). 

G2  M.  Abu  Kebir  is  a  village  -with  8605  inhabitants. 

From  Abu  Kebir  a  narrow-gauge  line  runs  to  the  E.  via  (8V2  M.) 
FaUs  (Faqus)  to  (2OV2  M.j  Es-SdHMpeh  (El-Salhia).  —  To  the  N.  of  Fakiis, 
near  the  hamlet  of  Ahataana,  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  town;  buildings 
dating  from  the  time  of  the  12th  Dyn.  and  of  the  Ramessides  have  been 
discovered  here  by  Naville.  About  2V4  M.  to  the  N.  of  Khataana,  near 
the  village  of  Kaniir,  stood  a  temple  built  by  Ramses  II. 

Light  Railways  from  Aed  Kehir.  1.  \'ia  Horbeit  {Ehorbela,  the  an- 
cient }'harbaeihus,  chief  seat  of  the  worship  of  Ilar-merti),  on  the  Sddi 
Canal,  Ibrdhtmiyeh  {Ibrahimia;  branch  to  Hehiyeh,  see  above),  Diarb-Negrn 
(see  below),  and  Fumm  es-Safuriyeh  (p.  173)  to  Mil  Ohamr  (p.  174).  —  2.  Via 
Ahu  Ilammdd  (see  pp.  171,  181)  to  Belbeis  (p.  171). 

Beyond  Ahu  Kebir  the  line  turns  to  the  N.W.  and  crosses  the 
Sadi  Canal  and  a  number  of  smaller  canals.  —  661/2  M.  El-Buha. 

From  El-Buha  bridle-paths  lei'd  along  both  banks  of  the  Masraf  Sun 
el-Hagar,  a  drainage  canal  about  26  M.  long,  to  the  N.E.  to  the  Sdn'e.l-Hciyar 
Canal,  tlie  continuation  of  the  Fdk-fis  Canal.  About  3  M.  to  the'  N.  oftheir 
confluence,  on  the  Bahr  el-Mashra^,  lies  the  fishing- village  of  Sdn  el-Hagar, 
with  the  ruins  ot  the.  ancient  Tanis  (Egypt.  Zanet;  the  Zan  or  Zoan'oi  the 
Bible).  The  temple  of  the  patron-god  Seth,  built  by  Ramses  II.,  partly 
with  the  material  of  earlier  structures,  is  now  represented  by  a  confused 
heap  of  ruins  and  hardly  repays  a  visit,  as  most  of  the  larger  monuments 
have  been  transferred  ti)  the  Cairo  Museum  (p.  86). 

About  8  M.  to  theS.E.  of  Tanis,  and9iM.  to  the  N.W.  of  Es-Salihiyeh  (see 
abovel,  lie  the  mounds  of  debris  known  as  Nebeslieh,  the  ancient  Egyptian 
i'emet.  These  were  excavated  in  1SS6,  at  the  instance  of  the  Egypt  Ex- 
idoration  Fund,  by  Prof.  Flinders  Pelrie,  who  discovered  the  remains  of 
a  temple,  built  by  Ramses  II.  with  the  aid  of  older  monuments,  and  a 
sanctuary  (if  the  town-goddess  Buto,  founded  by  Amasis.  In  the  cemetery, 
among  the  Egyptian  tomibs  of  the  19th  Dynasty  and  later,  were  found  the 
graves  of  Cyprian  mercenaries  stationed  here  under  Amasis. 

68  M.  Kafr  Sakr,  a  district-capital  with  2108  inhabitants.  — 
701/.2  M.  Abu  Shekik  (Ahu  el-Shequq). 

791/2  M.  Sinbeliinnn  (SimbeUaouein,  Simbellawein). 

About  7^/zM..  to  the  N.E.  of  the  station,  on  eitlier  side  of  the  village 
of  Tmei  el-Amdtd  (road  to  Man.sura,  see  p.  174)  and  a  canal,  rise  two  mounds 
of  ruins.  That  to  the  S. ,  the  Tell  ihn  ex-Saldm,  is  Roman  and  perhaps 
marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  Thmuis.  That  to  the  N.,  the  Tell  Roba  or 
Tell  el-Kasr,  was  kniivrn  in  the  middle  ages  as  El-Mondnl  and  contains  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  Mendes.  A  shrine  dedicated  in  tlie  temple  by  Amasis 
and  coffins  of  sacred  rams,  which  were  revered  in  Mendes,  still  exist. 

Light  Railways  from  SinbelawIn.  1.  Via  Diarb-Negm  (see  above 
and  Kandydt  (p.  171)  to  Zaidzik  (p.  171).  —  2.  Via  Aga  (p.  173)  to  Mi 
SamanHd,  on  the  E.  t)ank  of  the  Damietta  arm  of  the  Nile  (on  the  W.  bank 
lies  SamanHd,  p.  174).  —  3.  To  Fumm  el-Buhiyeh  Ip.  173),  where  the  Buhiyek 
Canal  diverges  from  the  Damietta  arm.    Thence  to  Mil  Ghamr,  see  p.  173. 


to  Mansura.  MANSURA.  9.  Route.    173 

85  M.  Bakltyeh  (Baqlia),  with  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Hermu- 
poUs  (Egypt."  Ba/i ;  comp.  p.  209).  —  88  M.  Shdweh  (Choua,  Skua). 

9*2  M.  Manstlra.  —  Hotels.  Cangiarri't  Hotel,  Rue  de  TEglise  Latine, 
[.ens.  40-50  pia3.;'//i;<.  de  la  Bourse,  facing  the  Jfile,  R.  10  pias. ;  Royal  Hotel, 
in  the  New  Street;  Udl.  Khidivial,  opposite  the  post-office.  —  Kestadrants. 
CangiarrVs  (see  above);  Des  Pyramides,  near  the  Hot.  de  la  Bourse. 

Post  Office,  near  the  Police  Station.  —  Banks.  National  Bank  of 
I'yypt,  Anglo-  Egyptian  Bank,  Cvidit  Lyonnais ,  all  near  the  post-office; 
fieuttche  Orientbank,  in  the  Old  Street.  —  Thf.atre,  near  the  post-office. 

British  Consular  Agent.  F.  T.  Murdoch.  —  Lloyd's  Agent,  James 
Macvey. 

Services  in  English  ave  held  during  winter  by  the  chaplain  of  the 
Delta  Chaplaincy  and  by  the  American  Mission. 

MansHra  { Mansourah),  a  thriving  town  with  (1907)  40,279  inhah. 
and  numerous  new  houses  in  the  European  style,  is  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Dakahllyeh  and  lies  on  the  right  hank  of  the  ancient 
Phatnitic  arm  of  the  Nile,  now  the  Damietta  branch,  from  which  di- 
verges the  Bahr  es-Sughaiijar  (El-Bohr  et-Saghir),  a  canal  emptying 
into  Lake  Menzaleh.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  lies  Talkha 
(p.  176).  Mansfira  is  an  emporium  for  the  cotton  and  other  products 
of  Lower  Egypt. 

HisTOKT.  Man.sura  (i.e.  'the  victorious')  was  founded  by  Sultan  Malik 
el-Kamil  (p.  cxvii)  in  1221,  as  an  advantageous  substitute  fur  Damietta  (comp. 
p.  176).  The  first  serious  attack  made  on  JIansura  was  by  the  Crusaders 
under  Louis  IX.  of  France  in  1249.  After  encountering  great  difficulties  they 
succeeded  in  crossing  the  Ushuium  Canal  (the  present  Bahr  es-Sughaiyar), 
but  in  the  neighbourhood  of  JIansura  they  were  defeated  by  the  young 
Sultan  El-JIo'azzam  Turanshah.  Their  fleet  was  destroyed  and  'famine- 
lever'  broke  out.  When  the  ill-fated  Crusaders  attempted  to  escape  they 
were  intercepted  by  the  Turks,  who  thinned  their  ranks  terribly  and 
captured  the  king  (April,  1250).  On  May  6th,  1250,  Louis  was  released  on 
payment  of  a  heavy  ransom  and  on  surrendering  Damietta. 

The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  and  the  crowded  Arab  quarter  is 
gradually  disappearing  before  modern  streets.  The  main  street 
runs  to  the  W.  from  the  railway  station  to  the  Nile.  In  a  square 
near  the  police-station  is  the  unassuming  mosque  of  El-Muwafik. 
An  unfounded  tradition  points  out  an  old  house  of  Saladiu's  time, 
close  by,  ^s  the  prison  of  Louis  IX.  (see  above  and  p.  cxvii).  —  In 
the  quarter  between  the  main  street  and  the  Nile  are  the  consulates, 
the  former  Palace  of  the  Khedive,  a  large  and  unattractive  building, 
now  used  as  a  mixed  tribunal,  and  the  small  mosque  oi  Sanga.  The 
last  contains  columns  brought  from  older  edifices,  with  Byzantine 
capitals  of  Corinthian  tendency,  bearing  Saracenic  arches.  The 
minbar  (pulpit)  and  ceiling  are  still  embellished  with  remains  of 
line  wood-carving,  which  was  originally  painted. 

Railway  to  Damietta  and   Tanla,  see  R.  10. 

Light  Railways  from  MansCra.  1.  To  Benha  (p.  34),  via  Aga  (p.  172), 
Ftimm  el-Buhtyeh  (p.  172),  MU  Ghamr  (p.  174),  Fumm  es-Safurtyeh  (p.  172), 
and  Sahragt  (7000  inhab.;  branch-lines  to  Zakdzik,  p.  171,  and  to  Mina  el- 
Kumi},  p.  181).  From  Benha  the  line  goes  on  via"5ci'd«  (p.  171)  to  the  Bar- 
rag  e'du  Nil  (p.  121).  —  2.  To  Maldriyeh.  This  line  runs  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  Bahr  es-Sughaiyar  (see  above).    The  intervening  stations  are  Mehal- 

Baedeker's  Egypt.   7th  Edit.  12 


174   Route  10.        MEHALLEH  EL-KUBRA. 

let  Damana  (also  connected  with  Dekernes  by  a  loop-line  via  Mil  'AH),  Mil 
Ddfer,  Dekernes  (5000  inhab. ;  branch-line  to  Mehallel  Ingdk  or  Mehallel  Inshaq, 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Damietta  Arm,  opposite  S/iirbin,  p.  175),  AshmiXn 
er-Rummdn  (2500  inhab.),  Hit  Salsil  (3500  inbab.),  and  Menzaleh  (a  village 
with  fully  10,000  inhab.).  Matariyeh  (Malaria)  is  a  village  with  15,0()0  inhab., 
situated  on  a  peninsula  in  Lake  Menzaleh  (p.  185).  Adjoining  the  station 
is  the  d^pot  of  two  German  firms  occupied  in  exporting  eels  from  the 
lake.  —  Sdn  el-Hagar  [Tanis;  p.  172)  is  conveniently  visited  from  Matari- 
yeh by  boat.  —  For  the  steamer  to  Damietta  and  Port  Sa'td,  see  p.  179. 

Road  (carr.  60-70  pias.)  from  Man.sura  to  Tmei  el  -  Amdid  (Thmnis ; 
Mendes),  see  p.  172.  —  Excursion  to  Behbit  el-Hagar  via  Mil  'Assas,  see  below. 

10.  From  Tanta  to  Damietta  via  Mansura. 

74  M.  Railway  in  3V2-33/4  brs.  (1st  cl.  fare  54  pias.). 

Tanta,  see  p.  33.  —  5  M.  Ragdlyeh.  —  8'/2  M.  Mehallet  RUh 
(Mehallet  Roh)  is  the  junction  for  Mit  Ghamr  (see  below)  and  for 
Desiik  and  Damanhur  (see  p.  32). 

Fkom  Mehallet  RCh  to  Mit  Ghamr,  20  M.,  narrow-gauge  line  in 
l-l'/4  hr.  (fare  16  pias.).  Stations:  Korashiijeh  (Qorashia),  Gemmeizeh  ( Guem- 
mezeh),  ,Sonta  (Santah).  —  18'/2  M.'  Zifteh  (Zi/ta),  a  town  with  15,850  in- 
hab., which  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Damietta  arm.  Light  railway 
to  Birket  es-Saba''  (see  below).  About  2  M.  lower  down,  reached  in 
5  minutes  by  the  light  railway  to  Melialleh  cl-Kubra  (see  below),  lies  the 
Zifteh  Barrage^  constructed  in  1903  and  containing  50  sluices,  each  16  ft. 
in  width.  This  construction  resembles  the  Assiut  Barrage  (p.  232)  and  is 
intended  to  collect  water  for  the  canals  of  the  E.  provinces  (Gharbiyeh 
and  Dakahliyeh),  which  were  formerly  supplied  from  the  barrage-works  at 
Kalyub  (p.  122).  —  Beyond  Zifteh  the  railway  crosses  the  Damietta  arm  to 
('20  M.)  Mit  Ghamr,  a  town  on  the  right  bank,  with  about  12,000  inhabitants. 
About  G  31.  to  the  S.,  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  Delta,  is 
the  Tell  Mokdam,  with  a  ruined  temple  of  Osorkon  II.,  perhaps  on  the  site 
of  the  Leontonpolis  of  Strabo.  Light  railways  run  from  Mit  Ghamr  to  Man- 
sura and  the  Barrage  du  Nil  (see  p.  173);  to  Sinbelawin  (p.  172);  and  to 
Abu  Kebir  (p.  172). 

171/2  M.  Mehalleh  el-Kubra  (Mehalleh  KeMr),  a  district-capital 
with  33,547  inhab.,  has  numerous  European  houses,  cotton  cleaning 
and  weaving  mills,  and  an  interesting  old  synagogue. 

Light  Railways.  1.  To  Baliim,  on  Lake  Burlus  (p.  177),  running  to 
the  N.  of  the  main  line  via  Kafr  Sdrem,  Tireh  (Tira;  branch  to  Talkha, 
p.  175,  via  Nabaroh),  Biydla  (p.  17,5),  and  Hamovl  Barari.  —  2.  To  Birket 
es-Saba'  (p.  33),  running  to  the  N.E.  to  Ka/r  Sdrem,  then  to  the  S.  via 
Samandd  (see  below),  Sonhdt  (a  village  with  5645  inhab.,  on  the  Damietta 
arm),  Zifteh  Barrage,  and  Zifteh  (see  above).  —  3.  To  Tanta  via  Shin  see 
p.  33),  —  4.  To  fania  via  Kotjlr  (see  p.  33). 

20  M.  Rahbein  (Rahabein).  —  22  M.  Samanud,  a  village  with 
14,408  inhab.,  beside  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  ancient  Sebennytos 
(Egypt.  Zeb-nuter,  Copt.  Jemnuti),  the  birthplace  of  Manetho 
(p.  xcviii),  is  situated  on  the  Damietta  arm  of  the  Nile  and  is  a 
station  on  the  light  railway  from  Mehalleh  el-Kubra  via  Zifteh  to 
Birket  es-Saba'  (see  above).  On  the  opposite  (right)  bank  is  MU 
Samanud  (p.  172).  —  26  M.  MU  'Assas. 

Proceeding  to  the  N.  from  the  station  of  Mit  'Assas  for  10  min.  along 
the  canal,  then  turning  to  the  left,  we  reach  the  ('/4  hr.)  ruin.s  of  Behbit 
el-Hagar  (Bihbtl  el-ffigdra),  the  ancient  Iseum  or  Isidis  Oppidum  of  the 
Romans.    The  Egyptian  name  of  the  place  was  Hebet  or  Per-ehbit,  or  'House 


DAMTETTA.  10,  Route.   175 

of  tlie  god  of  Hebet'  (i.e.  Horns),  of  whicli  the  modern  name  is  a  onrrup- 
tioii.  Isis,  as  wpU  as  Horus  and  Osiris,  was  worshipped  here.  Within 
a  still  partly  extant  girdle-wall  of  unlmrnt  brick,  used  liy  the  AraliS  as 
a  place  of  burial,  rises  a  large  heap  of  ruins,  which  t'orin  the  remains 
of  the  once  niajinificent  Temple  op  Isis,  huilt  by  Ncktanebes  {30th  Byn.) 
and  Ptolemy  II.  Philadelphns.  The  ruins  form  a  most  picturesque  mass  of 
fragments,  altogether  about  100  paces  in  circumference.  The  structure  con- 
sisted entirely  of  granite,  chietly  grey  but  partly  red  in  colour,  brought 
hither  from  a  great  distance. 

The  reliefs  all  date  from  the  time  of  Ptolemy  11.  The  position  of  one 
of  them  enables  us  to  identify  the  ancient  sanctuary.  In  this  relief  the 
king  appears  offering  incense  before  the  sacred  bark  of  Isis,  which  is 
here  shown  in  a  form  hitherto  found  only  in  bronzes:  the  cabin  resembles 
a  house  of  two  stories;  above,  the  goddess,  with  the  cows'  horns  and  the 
sun's  disk,  is  enthroned  on  a  lotus-flower,  guarded  on  each  side  by  a 
winged  goddess.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  ruing,  near  the  ancient  entrance, 
is  an  interesting  large  slab  of  grey  granite,  veined  with  red,  on  which  is 
represented  the  king  offering  a  gift  of  land  to  Osiris  and  Isis.  On  the  N. 
side  lies  an  unusually  large  Hathor  capital,  in  granite.  Numerous  remains 
of  pillars,  architraves,  friezes  with  heads  of  Hathor,  and  waterspouts  in 
the  shape  of  recumbent  lions  also  slill  exist.  A  little  farther  on  the  re- 
mains of  a  staircase  built  in  the  walls  may  be  observed. 

The  sacred  lake  of  the  temple  still  exists  near  the  village  of  Behbil, 
to  the  N.W.  of  the  ruins. 

32  M.  Talkha  is  tlie  junction  for  the  light  railway  to  Tireh 
(p.  1741.  —  The  train  crosses  the  Damietta  arm,  by  means  of  a 
handsome  bridge,  to  (34  M.)  Manslira  (p.  173). 

On  leaving  Mansura  the  train  recrosses  the  liver  to  the  left 
bank,  which  it  follows  to  Damietta.  The  land  is  carefully  cultivated, 
and  we  observe  a  number  of  steam-engines  used  for  the  irrigation  of 
tlie  soil.  —  42  M.  Batra. 

481/2  M.  ShirMn  (Cherhine),  a  district-capital  with  8500  inhabi- 
tants. Opposite,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Damietta  arm,  is  Mehallet 
Ingulc  (p.  174). 

Fkom  SiiiRBiN  TO  Kalin,  50  M.,  branch-railway  in  ca.  3  or  4  hrs.  — 
Beyond  (51/2  M.)  Basandileh  the  line  crosses  the  Bahr  Shibiii  (p.  34;  here 
called  also  Saljr  Basandileh)  and  beyond  the  stations  of  Belkas  {Belqas ; 
25,473  inhab.)  and  IHydla  (Biela,  Biala;  p.  174)  the  BaJjr  Tireh.  Stations: 
38  M.  Kafr  esh- Sheikh  (6702  inhab.),  connected  by  a  light  railway  also 
with  Tanta  (p.  33)  and  Sidi  Salem  (p.  33);  Nashart.  —  50  31.  Kalin  (p.  32). 

55  M.  Ran  el-Khaltg.  —  66  M.  Fdreskdr  (Farascour);  the  town 
lies  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Damietta  arm.  Lake  Menzaleh  (p.  185) 
is  seen  to  the  E.  —  70  M.  Kafr  el-Battlkh  lies  in  a  sandy  plain, 
extending  as  far  as  Lake  Burlus  and  covered  in  summer  with  crops 
of  water-melons  (large  melon -market  in  July).  —  The  station  of 
(74  M.)  Damietta  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  arm  of  the  Nile  (ferry 
to  the  upper  landing-place  in  l/4hr.  j  3  pias.). 

Damietta.  —  Hotels.    E0lel  Continental,  at  the  upper  landing-place,  R. 
12  pias.  (bargain  advisable),  plain;  H6t.  Egyptien,  also  on  the  river,  good. 
Post  Ofi'ioe  and  Telkgraimi  Ofpicb. 

Damietta.^  Arabic  Dumydt,  situated  between  the  Damietta  branch 
of  the  Nile  and  Lake  jMenzaleh  (p.  185),  about  7V2  ^^-  ^"^om.  the 
sea,  is  a  district-capital  with  29,354  inhab.  (few  Europeans).  The 
trade  is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  native    merchants  (Arabs  and 

12* 


176   Route  10.  DAMIETTA. 

Levantines).  The  industries  to  wliicli  the  town  owed  its  former 
prosperity  still  exist  to  some  extent.  There  are,  for  instance,  several 
cotton  mills  and  silk  factories,  the  latter  of  which  produce  the  hlack 
silk  of  the  'habara'  worn  by  Moslem  women  (comp.  p.  47). 

IIisTOitr.  Little  or  nothing  is  known  of  the  early  history  of  Damietta. 
During  the  Arahian  era  Damietta  attained  a  great  reputation  on  account 
of  the  resistance  it  offered  to  the  Crusaders  ;  but  the  town  of  that  period 
stood  farther  to  the  N.  than  its  modern  successor  (see  below).  In  1218  it 
was  besieged  by  King  John  of  Jerusalem.  With  the  aid  of  an  ingenious 
double  boat,  constructed  and  fortified  in  accordance  with  a  design  by 
Oliverius,  an  engineer  of  Cologne,  the  Frisians,  Germans,  and  others 
of  the  besiegers  succeeded  after  a  fight  of  twenty-five  hours  in  capturing 
the  tower  to  which  the  chain  stretched  across  the  river  was  attached. 
The  success  of  the  Christians  was,  however,  considerably  marred  by  the 
interference  of  the  ambitious  though  energetic  Pelagius  Galvani^  the 
papal  legate,  and  by  the  vigilance  of  the  Egyptian  sultan  Malik  el-Kamil. 
At  length,  after  various  vicissitudes,  the  Christians  captured  the  place. 
They  obtained  valuable  spoil,  sold  the  surviving  townspeople  as  slaves, 
and  converted  the  mosques  into  churches,  but  in  1221  they  were  compelled 
by  a  treaty  to  evacuate  the  town.  In  1249,  when  Louis  IX.  landed  near 
Damietta,  it  was  abandoned  by  its  inhabitants.  Without  striking  a  blow 
the  Crusaders  marched  into  the  deserted  streets  of  the  fortress,  but  in  the 
course  of  the  following  year  they  were  obliged  to  restore  it  to  the  Saracens 
as  part  of  the  ransom  of  Louis  IX.,  who  had  been  taken  prisoner  at  Mansura 
(p.  173).  During  the  same  year,  by  a  resolution  of  the  Emirs,  the  town  was 
destroyed,  and  was  re-erected  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  farther  to  the  S. 
The  new  town  soon  became  an  important  manufacturing  and  commer- 
cial place.  Its  staple  products  were  leather-wares,  cloth,  and  oil  of  sesame, 
for  which  it  was  famous,  and  its  harbour  was  visited  by  ships  of  many 
different  nations.  Owing  to  the  construction  of  the  Mahmudiyeh  Canal 
Damietta  lost  most  of  its  trade,  which,  however,  is  now  on  the  increase, 
chiefly  owing  to  the  export  of  fish  (especially  eels)  from  Lake  Menzaleh 
(p.  185). 

Seen  from  the  railway  station  Damietta  still  presents  an  im- 
posing appearance,  with  its  lofty  houses  flanking  the  river;  but  this 
by  no  means  corresponds  with  the  interior  of  the  town,  where  the 
buildings  are  mostly  humble  brick  erections.  The  European  quar- 
ter lies  upstream,  with  the  spacious  Government  Hospital  and  the 
Coastguards'  Barracks.  Here  is  also  the  principal  Mosque  (Garni' 
el-Bahr),  with  two  lofty  minarets  and  a  spacious  dome.  Connected 
with  it  is  a  university  (223  students,  46  professors).  In  the  vicinity 
are  a  Roman  Catholic  and  a  Greek  church.  Close  to  the  river  stands 
the  mosque  of  El-Matbultyeh,  founded  by  Sultan  Kait  Bey  in  1475 
along  with  its  institute  (Ashrafiyeh).  The  principal  street,  upwards 
of  1  M.  long,  forms  the  busy  bazaar  of  the  town.  Many  of  the  houses 
are  provided  with  handsomely  carved  wooden  jutties  and  lattice- 
work, which  are  in  most  cases  very  ancient  and  differ  materially 
in  style  from  the  mashrabiyehs  of  Cairo. 

To  the  N.  of  the  town,  in  the  suburb  of  El-Gebdneh,  is  the 
dilapidated  mosque  of  Abu'l  Ma'dteh.  The  building  appears  to  date 
from  the  period  of  the  old  town  of  Damietta  and  has  Cuflc  inscrip- 
tions in  front.  The  interior  contains  numerous  antique  columns, 
two  of  which,  standing  on  the  same  base,  offer  a  test  of  honesty, 
like  those  in  the  Mosque  of  Amr  at  Cairo  (p.  110).    Another  column 


WagnerJt  Dp'bes.I.fij 


PORT  SAID.  11.  Route.    177 

in  the  same  row  is  licked  by  sufferers  in  the  liope  of  cure.  The 
miuaret  is  embellished  -with  early-Arabian  ornamentation. 

A  trip  by  boat  down  to  the  Mouth  of  the  Nile  (Boghdz)  takes 
;i-3V2  l"rs.  or,  if  the  -wind  is  favourable,  I1/2  l"".  only  (fare  there 
and  back  20  pias.).  During  the  summer  months  steamers  ply  to 
(I  hr.)  the  Rds  el-Bahr,  a  peninsula  jutting  out  between  the  Nile 
and  the  sea,  visited  for  sea-bathing  by  both  Europeans  and  Egypt- 
ians.   Dolphins  are  often  seen  in  the  river  near  its  mouth. 

From  Damiktta  to  Port  SaId  via  Lake  Menzaleb  (8  lira.),  see  p.  179. 
Tlic  boats  start  from  the  fishins-village  of  Oheit  en-JVasdra,  2  M.  to  the  E. 
of  Damietta  (carr.  in  20  min.,  6-8  pias.).  —  From  Damietta  to  Eosetta 
(p.  30)  via  Lake  Burins  (Borollos),  a  ronte  which  is  not  recommended, 
takes  2-3  days  at  least  and  sometimes  much  longer. 


11.  From  Port  Sa'id  to  Cairo  or  Suez  via  Isma'^iliyeh, 

Uailwat  to  Ismd'iliych,  48  M.,  iu  ^.^fi-P|^  hr.  (1st  cl.  faro  37  pias.);  (o 
Cairo,  148  M.,  express  in  4-41/4,  ordinary  train  in  ca.  4^4 hrs.  (fare  96  pias.) ; 
to  Suez  (Rue  Colmar),  104>/2  M.,  in  31/2-43/4  hrs.  (fare  74  pias.).  Dining-cars 
arc  attached  to  the  express  trains  between  Isma'iliyeh  and  Cairo. 


Port  Said. 

Arrival  by  Sea.  The  entrance  of  the  harbour,  marked  by  buoys,  is 
•/a  M.  wide.  To  the  right,  near  the  S.  end  of  the  W.  mole,  is  the  Lesseps 
Monument  (p.  178).  —  The  Custom  House  examination  takes  place  on 
shore.  As  the  steamer  does  not  berth  at  the  pier,  the  passengers  have  to 
disembark  at  the  custom-house  (Douane  ;  PI.  8)  by  small  boats  {i.^h-V/2  pias. 
each  pers. ;  trunk  2,  hand-luggage  1  pias.).  The  agents  of  Cook,  Clark, 
and  the  Hamburg-American  and  North  German  Lloyd  lines  will,  for  a 
small  fee,  relieve  travellers  of  all  trouble  connected  with  the  landing  and 
examination  of  their  luggage. 

Kailway  Station  ('Gare'  on  PI.),  1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  custom-house. 

Hotels.  'Eastern  Exchange  (P).  a),  Rue  Sultan  Osman,  with  100  rooms, 
liaths,  lifts,  and  garden,  pens.  IS-ISs.;  'Savoy  Hotel  (PI.  d),  cor.  Quai 
Francois-Joseph  and  Rue  el-Tegara  (Rue  du  Commerce),  with  63  rooms, 
restaurant,  and  bar,  pens.  62-62  pias.  •,  IIotei,  Continental  (PI.  b).  Rue 
el-Tegara,  with  56  rooms,  pens.  50  pias.;  Casino  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  c), 
beside  the  Jetee  Quest  (p.  178),  with  45  rooms,  bathing-establishment,  and 
garden,  pens.  50-70  pias.;  Hotel  de  la  Poste  (PI.  cl,  Rue  du  Nil. 

Cabs.  Per  drive  2^/2  pias.,  to  the  railway  station  4,  to  Er-Rajwa 
(steamboat-station  on  Lake  Menzaleb,  p.  185)  6  pias.;  per  hour  10  pias. 

Tramway  from  the  harbour  through  the  town  and  the  Arab  quarter 
to  the  cemetery  (p.  178);  and  from  the  Greek  Church  to  the  railway 
station  and  Er-Raswa  (see  above). 

Physicid.ns.  Dr.  Cuffey ,  physician  to  the  Lady  Strangfovd  Hospital 
(British);  Dr.  ffayward,  medical  officer  of  the  Egyptian  Government  Hospi- 
tal; Dr.  Wigham;  Dr.  Cassola.  —  Dentist,  Dr.  Stampfl  (German). 

Banks.  National  Bank  of  Egypt.,  Anglo- Egyptian  Bank.,  Cvidit  LyonnaU, 
Comptoir  National  d^Escompte  de  Paris,  all  in  the  Rue  du  Nil;  Banque  Otto- 
mane,  Bassin  du  Commerce;  Deutsche  Orientbank,  Boulevard  Euge'nie.  — 
English  and  French  money,  including  the  copper  coins,  and  Greek  silver 
are  current  at  Port  Sa'id. 

Post  Offices.  Egyptian  (PI.  14),  Rue  du  Nil;  French  (PI.  16),  Boulevard 
Eugenie.  —  Telegraph  Offices.  Egyptian  (PI.  19),  Rue  el-Tegara;  Eastern 
Telegraph  Co.  (PI.  18),  Quai  Francois-Joseph,  for  Europe. 

Consuls.    British   (PI.  3),  E'  C.  Blech  (consul-general),  Place  Abbas; 


nSltoutell.  PORT  SAID.  From  Port  Sa'U 

vice-consul,  R.  E.  W.  Chafy.  —  American  (PI.  2),  Brisiow  (consular  a!;eat), 
Quai  Francois-Joseph.    Also  French,  German,  and  other  consular  officers. 

Shops  of  all  kinds  abound,  but  the  so-called  'oriental  goods'  are  usually 
manufactured  in  Europe  and  are  sold  at  high  prices.  Chinese  and  Japan- 
ese articles,  etc.  (bargaining  necessary):  Fioravanti  d-  C'himem;  G.  C.  Saro- 
lides;  and  at  the  Micado. 

Tourist  Agents.  Thos.  Cook  tt  Son,  Quai  Francois-Joseph ;  F,  C.  Clark, 
Savoy  Hotel  (p.  177) •,  Hamburg- American  Line,  Rue  du  Nil.  —  Lloid's 
Agents,  L.  Savon  Jt  Co. 

Steamship  Offices  of  all  the  large  companies  on  the  Quai  Francois- 
Joseph  (cump.  the  Plan).     Steamboat  connection  with  Kurope,  see  R.  1. 

Church  Services.  Anglican,  at  the  Church  of  Vie  Epiphanij  ('Eglise  angl.'' 
on  Plan),  Rue  el-Tegara,  every  Sun.  at  8  a.m.,  10.30a.m.,  and  6p.m.  ■ — 
Roman  Catholic,  at  the  Church  of  Sle.  Evghiie  ('Eglise  cath.  rom.'  on  Plan). 

Port  Sa'td,  or  Port  Said,  the  chief  town  of  the  Egyptian  goYeru- 
orate  of  the  same  name,  lies  at  the  E.  extremity  of  an  island  which 
helongs  to  the  narrow  strip  of  land  separating  Lake  Menzaleh  from 
the  Mediterranean.  It  owes  its  origin  to  the  Suez  Canal,  and  its 
prosperity  during  recent  years  lias  been  marked.  The  population, 
which  in  1883  was  only  17,000,  was  estimated  at  the  end  of  1911 
at  55,400,  including  ahout  11,000  foreigners. 

The  Harbour  occupies  an  area  of  about  570  acres  and  has  been 
excavated  to  a  depth  of  32  ft.  by  means  of  laborious  dredging.  It  is 
protected  by  two  massive  piers:  the  eastern  (Jetee  Est),  running  out 
into  the  sea  towards  the  N.  for  I1/4  M,,  and  the  western  (Jetee 
Quest),  running  towards  the  N.E.  for  IY2  M.,  now  being  consider- 
ably lengthened  and  intended  to  protect  the  harbour  from  the 
mud-deposits  of  the  Nile  (comp.  p.  12).  On  the  landward  end  of 
the  W.  pier  and  opposite  the  inner  harbour  pier  {Digue  Nouvelle, 
550  yds.  in  length)  rises  the  *Lighthouse  (Phare),  constructed  of 
concrete,  174  ft.  in  height,  and  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  Its 
electric  lights  are  visible  to  a  distance  of  24  M.  About  300  yds.  to 
the  N.  of  it,  on  the  pier,  is  a  statue  of  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  (p.  183), 
by  E.  Fremiet,  unveiled  by  the  Suez  Canal  Co.  in  1899,  thirty 
years  after  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal,  his  great  achievement. 
The  statue,  221/2  ft.  high,  stands  on  a  pedestal  341/2  ft.  in  height. 

The  Inner  Harbour  (220  acres)  includes  the  Bassin  Isma'il  and 
three  adjoining  sheltered  basins,  viz.  the  commercial  harbour  (Bas- 
sin du  Commerce)  and  the  arsenal  harbour  (Bassin  de  I' Arsenal),  on 
each  side  of  the  handsome  buildings  of  the  Canal  Co.,  and  the 
Bassin  Cherif.  The  last  is  flanked  with  fine  buildings  erected  by 
Prince  Henry  of  the  Netherlands  as  a  factory  for  the  Dutch  trade, 
but  now  used  by  the  British  government  as  a  Marconi  station  (PI.  9). 
Beyond  these  lie  the  coal-harbour  (Bassin  des  Chalands  Charbon- 
niers),  the  Bassin  Abbas  Hilmi  or  Bassin  d'Afrique,  and  the  new 
petroleum  harbour  (Bassin  d,  Petrole). 

A  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  interesting  Salt  Works  on  the  E.  side 
of  the  harbour  (apply  to  the  manager),  where  salt  is  evaporated  in 
large  pans.    The  salt  which  is  exported  is  of  great  purity. 


to  Cairo.  ISMI'IlIyEH.  11.  Route.    179 

The  Arab  Quarter  and  the  Cemetery  lie  to  the  W.  (tramway, 
p.  177).  The  tombs  are  constructed  in  the  form  of  vaults  of  masonry 
above  ground,  as  the  soil  is  saturated  with  salt  water  at  a  depth  of 
li/o  ft.  below  the  surface. 

Steamers  of  the  Menzaleh  Canal  and  Navigation  Co.  ply  regularly  across 
Lake  Menzaleh  (p.  185)  from  Er-Raswa  (p.  185  ;  tramway,  p.  177)  to  Matdriyeh 
(p.  174;  in  connection  with  the  train  to  Mansilra)  and  (9  hrs. ;  fare  20  pias.) 
Damietla  (p.  175;  provisions  should  be  taken). 


The  Railway  from  Pout  Sa'id  to  Oaiko  at  tirst  skirts  the  W. 
bank  of  the  Suez  Canal  (comp.  R.  12);  to  the  right  lies  Lake 
Menzaleh  (p.  185).  —  81/2  M.  Ras  el-'Eiah  (p.  185);  15  M.  Tineh; 
23  M.  Le  Cap.  Beyond  (28  M.)  El-Kantara  (p.  185)  the  train  runs 
along  an  embankment  through  Lake  Balah  (p.  186).  SSl/o  M, 
Balah  (Ballafi).  —  Beyond  (40  M.)  El-Ferddn  (p.  186)  we  leave 
the  Suez  Canal  and  turn  towards  the  S.W. 

48  M.  Ismi'lliyeh  (Buffet).  —  Hotel.  H6tel- Restaurant  des  Voyageiirs^ 
near  the  station. 

Post  Office,  Place  Champollion,  near  the  station.  —  Egxptian  Tele- 
GUAPH  Office,  beside  the  station.  —  Toukist  Agents:  Thos.  Cook  &  Son. 

Phtsician  :  Dr.  Cambouillon,  at  the  Hospital  of  the  Suez  Canal  Co.  — 
Chemist:  Pharmacie  Internationale,  Rue  Negrelli.  —  Roman  Catholic  and 
Greek  Orthodox  Churches. 

Ismd'Ulyeh  (Isma'ilia),  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  Lake  Timsdh 
(p.  186),  was  the  main  centre  of  operations  during  the  construction 
of  the  Suez  Canal,  but  has  to  a  large  degree  lost  its  importance.  It 
has  a  governor  of  its  own  and  contains  10,373  inhabitants.  The 
pretty  gardens  and  plantations  and  the  view  of  the  blue  lake  lend  the 
town  the  appearance  of  an  oasis,  with  both  European  and  Arabian 
cultivation.  —  The  Avenue  de  I'Imperatrice  and  the  Avenue  Guichard 
lead  from  the  station  to  the  shore  of  Lake  Timsah  (station  of  the 
steam-launches).  Thence  we  may  follow  the  Rue  de  Chancel  and 
the  Rue  d'ltalie  to  the  left  to  the  Place  Champollion,  beyond  which 
the  Rue  Negrelli,  the  main  street  of  the  town,  runs  to  the  E.  to  the 
former  Palace  of  the  Khedive.  In  the  public  park  beside  the  last 
several  monuments  found  at  Pithom  (p.  180)  and  on  the  Suez  Canal 
are  preserved. 

Group  of  Ramses  II.  seated  between  the  yods  Re  ;ind  Atum;  memorial 
stone  of  Kamses  II.,  with  sculptures  and  inscriptions  ;  recumbent  lion  with 
human  head,  dedicated  by  Ramses  II.  to  Atum;  naos  with  the  figure  of  a 
similar  lion  (sphinx I,  dedicated  by  Ramses  II.  in  the  temple  of  Pithom; 
granite  nao,  from  El-'Arish  with  inscriptions  referring  to  the  rule  of  the 
gods  upon  earth. 

The  Quai  Mehemet  runs  to  the  E.  along  the  canal  to  the  water- 
works. The  shaded  RueLamasson  (benches),  diverging  to  the  right, 
leads  past  the  influx  of  the  canal  into  Lake  Timsah  to  (1^/4  M.) 
the  Canal  Co.'s  Hospital  and  a  chateau  of  the  Khedive  (carr.  there 
and  back  15-20  pias. ,  donkey  5  pias.).  The  hill  of  El-Gisr  (p.  186) 
may  be  ascended  hence  (ca.  1  hr.'s  ride). 


180    lioiUe  11.  ISMAILIYEU.  From  Port  Sa'id 

On  quitting  Isma'iliyeli,  we  obtain  another  glimpse  of  the  azure 
waters  of  Lake  Timsah.  At  (Sl^/o  M.)  Nefisheh,  the  first  station,  the 
railway  to  Suez  diverges  to  the  left  [see  p.  181).  The  line  to  Cairo 
traverses  the  Arabian  Desert,  which  is  intersected  from  E.  to  W. 
by  the  Wddi  Tdmildt,  and  skirts  the  Fresh  Water  or  Ismd'Uiyeh 
Canal.  The  fertile  tract  which  we  now  traverse  is  part  of  the  Ooshen 
of  the  Bible.  During  the  Turkish  re'gime  it  fell  into  a  miserable 
condition,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century  afforded  a  very 
scanty  subsistence  to  barely  4000  Arabs;  but  the  cultivation  was 
so  rapidly  improved  by  means  of  the  fresh- water  canal  that  it 
now  supports  upwards  of  12,000  prosperous  farmers  and  peasants. 
Beyond  the  canal,  on  the  left,  is  a  fertile  strip,  behind  which  rise 
the  desert  hills. 

The  Fresh  "Water  or  Isma'Uiyeh  Canal,  constructed  in  1858-63  to 
supply  the  villages  on  the  Suez  Canal  with  drinking-water  and  enlarged  in 
187(3,  is  in  great  part  a  restoration  of  an  earlier  canal  dating  from  the 
Middle  Empire.  This  ancient  canal,  which  began  at  the  Nile,  watered  the 
land  of  Goshen  with  its  branches,  and  entering  the  Bitter  Lakes  (p.  186), 
changed  their  character,  according  to  Strabo,  and  connected  them  with 
the  Red  Sea.  The  channel  of  the  old  canal,  which  was  re -discovered 
by  the  French  expedition  of  1798,  is  still  traceable  at  places,  and  its 
direction  has  frequently  been  followed  by  the  engineers  of  M.  de  Lesseps. 
The  remains  of  scarps  of  masonry  show  it  to  have  been  about  50  yds.  in 
width  and  16-17'/2  ft.  in  depth.  According  to  Herodotus  the  canal  was 
four  days'  journey,  and  according  to  Pliny  62  Roman  miles,  in  length. 
It  is  now  chiefly  used  for  irrigation  purposes.  At  Shubra,  to  the  N.  fif 
Cairo,  the  canal  diverges  from  the  Nile  and  thence  traces  to  the  N.E.  the 
boundary  between  the  Arabian  plateau  (on  the  N.)  and  the  land  of  Goshen 
fon  the  S.).  To  the  E.  of  Abu  Hammad  (p.  181)  it  intersects  the  ancient 
fresh-water  canal  coming  from  Zakazik,  and  then  runs  to  the  E.,  parallel 
with  this,  through  the  Wddi  TUmildt,  which  is  over  30  M.  in  length.  At 
JVefisheh  (see  above)  the  canal" forks;  the  S.  arm  leads  to  Suez,  while  the 
N.  arm  leads  to  Port  Sa'id. 

The  Goshen  of  the  Bible  (Egypt.  Gosem)  is  first  mentioned  in  the 
Book  of  Genesis,  xlv.  10,  where  Pharaoh  says  to  Joseph :  —  'And  thou 
shalt  dwell  in  the  land  of  Goshen,  and  thou  shalt  be  near  unto  me,  thou, 
and  thy  children,  and  thy  children's  children,  and  thy  flocks,  and  thy 
herds,  and  all  that  thou  hast\  Mention  is  made  of  Goshen  also  in  Genesis 
xlvi.  28,  29;  and  xlvii.  1,  6,  27.  Exodus  i.  11  mentions  the  cities  in 
Goshen  in  which  the  Israelites  were  compelled  to  work  at  the  tasks  im- 
posed on  them  by  Pharaoh  :  —  'Therefore  they  did  set  over  them  task- 
masters to  afflict  them  with  their  burdens.  And  they  built  for  Pharaoh 
treasure-cities  (or  storehouses),  Pithom  and  Raamses'  (see  below).  Comp. 
Sir  Hanhury  Browri'i  'The  Land  oi  Goshen  and  the  Exodus'  (2nd  edit.t^ 
London,  1912;  3  s.).  —  Goshen  lay  in  the  triangle  between  Zakazik,  Belbeis, 
and  Abu  Hammad  and  formed  part  of  the  Egyptian  nome  of  Arabia,  the 
capital  of  which  was  Per-Sopt  (the  Phakusa  of  the  Greeks),  re-discovered 
by  Naville  near  the  modern  Saft  el-Hineh,  2  hrs.'  ride  to  the  E.  of  Zakazik 
(p.  171).  The  ruins  have  disappeared,  but  a  few  ancient  stones  have  been 
built  into  the  houses  of  the  village  and  two  steles  are  preserved  in  the 
garden  of  the  'omdeh  or  village-headman. 

58  M.  Ahu  Sueir.  —  641/2  M.  Mahsameh. 

The  neighbouring  ruins  of  Tell  el-MaskliMa  mark  the  site  of  the  Pithom 
(Egypt.  Per-Atum,  i.e.  'house  of  the  god  Atum')  of  the  Bible  (see  above).  The 
spot  was  explored  for  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund  by  Naville,  who  dis- 
covered among  the  temple -buildings  several  grain -stores,  in  the  form 
of  deep,  rectangular  chambers  without  doors,  into  which  the  corn  was 
poured  from  above.    These  perhaps  date  from  the  time  of  Ramses  II.,  and 


to  Cairo.  TELL  EL-KEBIli.  11.  Route.    181 

may    possibly    be  the  actual  'storehouses'  of  the  Bible.     Later  excavators, 
however,  recot;nize  in  these  buildings  part  of  the  platform  of  a  fort. 

fi9  >I.  Ka-m-sin  (Kassassine,  Qassasin). —  78  M.  Tellel-KebiT, 
noted  as  tlie  scene  of  Arabi's  defeat  by  the  British  troops  in  1882 
(p.  cxxiv).  On  approaching  Tell  el-Kebir  the  train  passes  (left~)  a 
cemetery  laid  out  by  the  English,  with  a  tasteful  monument  to  the 
British  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  struggle  with  Arabi. 

At  (So  .M.l  Abu  Hammad  (p.  171)  the  train  enters  the  fertile 
district  of  the  E.  Delta,  which  is  riclier  both  in  water-courses  and 
trees  than  the  W,  Delta.  —  92  M.  Ahu  el-Alchdar.  —  97  M. 
Zakdz'ik,  see  p.  171.  —  101  M.  Zankalun;  105Vo  M.  Goddieda; 
108  M.'  Mtna  el-Kamh  {Mina  el-Qamh)  pp.  171,  173);  109  M.  Mlt 
Yaiid;  113'/2  ^1-  Sheblengeh  (Cheblanga,  Shiblanga).  The  train 
crosses  the  Rayah  et-Taufiki  and  reaches  (119  M.)  Benha  (p.  34), 
the  last  express-station  before  Cairo,  where  our  line  is  joined  by 
that  from  Alexandria. 

148  M.  Cairo  (Central  Station),  see  p.  86. 


From  Isma'iliyeh  to  Suez,  56'/.)  M.,  in  ca.  2  hrs.  —  As  far  as 
(3V2  ^I-)  Nepsheh  (p.  180)  the  train  follows  the  line  to  Cairo.  It  then 
bends  to  the  S.  and  crosses  the  fresh-water  canal,  on  the  "W.  bank 
of  which  it  remains  all  the  way  to  Suez,  with  the  desert  lying  to  the 
right.  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  bluish- 
green  Bitter  Lakes  (^p.  186).  To  the  right  rises  the  Gebel  Geneifeh 
(Geneffeh),  or  GebeL  Ahmed  Taker,  with  quarries  which  yielded 
material  for  the  construction  of  the  canal.  More  in  the  background 
are  the  heights  of  the  Gebel  'Uiceibid  (Aweibed).  —  16  M.  Fdyid 
(Faxed).  —  Near  (_28  M.)  Geneifeh  (Geneffeh)  we  lose  sight  of  the 
Bitter  Lakes.  On  the  left  again  stretches  a  vast  sandy  plain.  On 
the  right,  above  the  lower  hills,  tower  the  dark  masses  of  the 
'Atdka  Mts.,  the  outlines  of  which  stand  out  very  prominently  by 
evening-light;  they  are  conspicuous  also  from  Suez.  Before  reach- 
ing Esh-Shallufeh  (p.  187)  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  Suez  Canal, 
on  the  left. 

56'/2  M-  Suez.  The  station  is  in  the  Rue  Colmar  (see  p.  187). 
The  train  goes  on  3  M.  farther  to  the  Terre-Plein  Station  and  the 
Docks  Station. 

12.   The  Suez  Canal  from  Port  Said  to  Suez. 

The  passage  of  the  Suez  Canal  is  interesting  only  on  one  of  the  large 
steamers,  for  from  the  small  steamboats  which  ply  regularly  between  Is- 
ma'iliyeh  and  Port  Sa'id  the  passenger  cannot  see  beyond  the  embankments 
of  the  canal.  The  S.  part  of  the  canal,  from  Isma'iliyeh  to  Suez,  is  the 
more  interesting.  The  passage  from  Port  Sa'id  to  Suez  occupies  15-22  hrs. 
The  fare  by  the  British  steamers  is  about  3<.,  by  the  French  steamers 
100  fr.,  by  the  North  German  LInyd  40  and  30  marks;  by  the  German 
Ea^t  African  Line  65  and  55  marks.  The  fares  do  nut  include  the  tax 
levied  by  the  Canal  Cu.  cm  each  i>assen;j;er  (see  p.  186). 


182   Route  12.  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.  History. 

From  Cairo  a  visit  to  the  Suez  Canal  takes  lour  days:  1st  Day.  By 
train  to  Suez;  in  the  afternoon  visit  the  harbour.  —  2nd  Day.  Excursion 
to  the  Springs  of  Moses;  in  the  afternoon  by  train  to  Isind'iUyeh.  — 3rd  Day. 
Excursion  to  £l-Gisr  and  walk  through  IsmS'iliyeh;  in  the  afternoon 
by  train  to  Port  Scfid  (li/s  hr.).  —  4th  Bay.  Visit  the  harbour  at  Port 
Sa'id  in  the  morning ;  in  the  afternoon  return  by  rail  to  Cairo.  —  Hurried 
travellers  may  omit  Isma''iHyeh,  the  attractions  of  which  are  not  great. 
—  Those  with  more  time  may  include  a  visit  to  the  Eastern  Delta  by 
taking  the  train  from  Cairo  to  Man.sura  (p.  173>  and  Damielta,  then 
crossing  Lake  Menzaleh  to  Port  Sa'id ,  and  proceeding  to  Isma'iliy 
and  Suez. 

The  excursion  to  the  Suez  Canal  may  be  conveniently  made  on  t: 
way  back  to  Europe,  as  the  Australian,  China,  and  Indian  mail-steamc 
touch  at  Suez  (comp.  R.  1).  Between  Feb.  and  June  early  application 
the  offices  mentioned  at  p.  3S  is  desirable,  as  the  steamers  are  then  a 
to  be  crowded.  Information  as  to  the  exact  day  of  the  steamer's  arriv 
and  as  to  whether  room  is  .".vailable  is  not  generally  obtainable  until  t 
steamer  has  left  Aden  (i.e.  3-4  days  before  it  reaches  Suez). 


a.  Isthmus  of  Suez  and  History  of  the  Suez  Canal. 

The  Isthmus  of  Suez,  a  neck  of  land  which  connects  Africa  wi 
Asia,  is  at  its  narrowest  part  70  M.  in  width.  On  the  S.  side  it 
washed  by  the  N.  part  of  tlie  Gulf  of  Suez  (Arab.  Bahr  Kolzm 
Greek  HeToopolitc  Bay),  the  western  of  the  two  arms  of  the  R 
Sea,  which  separates  Africa  and  Asia.  The  idea  of  a  Suez  Canal 
no  modern  conception.  The  earliest  authenticated  attempt  to  co 
nect  the  Red  Sea  with  the  Nile  (and  thereby  with  the  Mediterranea 
was  made  by  Necho  ( p.  cv).  His  plan  was  to  extend  towards  tj 
S.,  from  Lake  Timsah  to  the  Red  Sea,  an  earlier  canal,  in  existen 
even  during  the  Middle  Empire,  which  diverged  from  the  Nile  ue 
Bubastis  and  flowed  through  the  Wadi  Tumilat  (p.  180).  Herodot 
informs  us  that  no  fewer  than  120,000  Egyptians  perished  whi 
engaged  in  the  work,  and  that  the  king  abandoned  the  imdertakii 
when  he  was  informed  by  an  oracle  that  the  barbarians  (i.e.  tl 
Persians)  alone  would  profit  by  it.  The  canal  was  completed  a  cei 
tury  later  by  Darius.  Its  course  roughly  corresponded  to  that  of  tl 
present  Fresh  Water  Canal  (comp.  p.  180).  Darius  commemorate 
the  completion  of  the  great  work  by  various  monuments  on  i 
banks,  of  which  the  remains  have  been  found  at  different  spo 
ie.g.  to  the  S.  of  Tell  el-Maskhuta ;  to  the  W.  of  the  Serapeu 
station;  to  the  N.  of  Esh-Shallufeh;  and  to  the  N.  of  Suez).  - 
Under  the  Ptolemies  the  canal  system  was  extended,  and  loci 
were  erected  at  its  efflux  into  the  Red  Sea. 

The  canal  fell  into  disrepair  during  the  first  century  B.  C,  ai 
Trajan  (98-1 17  A.D.)seems  to  have  restored  it.  At  all  events,  a  can; 
beginning  near  Cairo  and  terminating  in  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  the  pr 
eise  course  of  which,  probably  following  the  earlier  channel,  is  n 
where  described,  was  called  the  Amnis  Trajanus  (Trajan's  river). 

After  the  Arabs  had  conquered  Egypt  they  must   have'  been 
desirous  of  connecting  the    Lower  Egyptian  part  of  the   Nile  as 


History.  THE  SUEZ  CANAL.  12.  Route.    183 

directly  as  possible  with  the  Red  Sea.  'Amr  ibn  el- As  (pp.  cxiii,44) 
accordingly  restored  the  ancient  canal,  the  bed  of  which  is  said  to 
have  been  pointed  out  to  him  by  a  Copt,  and  used  it  for  the  trans- 
port of  grain  from  Fustat  (p.  44)  to  Kolzum  (Suez),  whence  it  was 
exported  by  the  Red  Sea  to  Arabia.  The  canal  again  hecame  un- 
serviceable after  the  8th  century.  At  a  later  period  the  Venetians 
frequently  thought  of  constructing  a  canal  through  the  Isthmus,  with 
a  view  to  recover  the  trade  which  they  had  lost  owing  to  the  discovery 
of  the  route  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Leibnitz,  too,  in  his  pro- 
posal regarding  an  expedition  to  Egypt,  made  in  1671  to  Louis  XIV., 
the  greatest  monarch  of  his  age,  strongly  recommends  the  construc- 
tion of  such  a  canal.  Sultan  Mustafa  III.,  the  admirer  of  Frederick 
the  Great,  All  Bey,  the  enterprising  Mameluke  prince,  and  Bonao 
parte  all  revived  the  scheme,  and  the  last  on  his  expedition  t- 
Egypt  in  1798  (p.  cxx)  even  caused  preliminary  works  to  he  under- 
taken, but  the  actual  execution  of  the  project  seemed  almost  as 
distant  as  ever.  Lepi-re,  Bonaparte's  chief  road  engineer,  surveyed 
the  ground,  but  owing  to  a  serious  miscalculation  he  threw  great 
doubt  on  the  feasibility  of  the  undertaking.  While  in  reality  the 
level  of  the  two  seas  is  nearly  the  same,  Lepere  estimated  that  of  the 
Red  Sea  to  be  nearly  33  ft.  higher  than  that  of  the  Mediterranean. 
In  1836  Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  (1805-94)  came  to  Cairo  as  a 
young  consular  eleve,  and  there  had  his  attention  called  to  Leppre's 
Memoire  reprardiug  the  scheme  of  connecting  the  two  seas,  which 
led  him  to  consider  its  great  importance  in  spite  of  Lepere's  doubts 
as  to  its  feasibility.  In  1838  he  made  the  acquaintance  of  Lieut. 
Waghorn  (p.  188),  whose  zealous  advocacy  of  the  establishment  of 
a  route  between  Europe  and  India  via  Egypt  stimulated  his  zeal 
for  a  similar  project.  In  1841  and  1847  Linant-Bey,  the  viceroy's 
engineer  of  water-works,  and  Messrs.  Stephenson,  Negrelli,  and 
Bourdaloue  demonstrated  the  inaccuracy  of  Lepf-re's  calculations. 
In  1854  M.  de  Lesseps,  having  matured  his  plan,  laid  it  before 
Sa'id  Pasha,  who  was  then  viceroy  and  determined  to  carry  it  out. 
Difficulties  were  thrown  in  the  way  of  the  enterprise  by  the  British 
government  during  Lord  Palmerstons  ministry,  but  on  Jan.  5th, 
1856,  permission  to  hegin  the  work  was  formally  granted  hy  the 
viceroy.  A  considerable  time,  however,  elapsed  before  the  necess- 
ary capital  was  raised,  and  it  was  not  till  April  22nd,  1859,  that 
the  work  was  actually  begun.  The  viceroy  undertook  to  pay  many 
of  the  current  expenses  and  provided  25,000  workmen,  who  were 
to  be  paid  and  fed  by  the  company  at  an  inexpensive  rate  and 
were  to  he  relieved  every  three  months.  Until  the  completion  of 
the  fresh-water  canal  (p.  180)  the  supplying  of  these  workmen  with 
water,  which  at  first  had  to  be  transported  on  camels,  cost  the 
company  8000  fr.  per  day.  Later,  however,  fewer  native  hands  were 
employed,  European  labourers  were  engaged,  and  much  of  the 
work  was  done  by  machinery,  of  22,000  horse-power  in  all. 


184   Route  12. 


THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 


Statistics. 


On  March  18th,  1869,  the  water  of  the  Mediterranean  was  at 
length  allowed  to  flow  into  the  nearly  dry,  salt-encrusted  basins  of 
the  Bitter  Lakes,  the  N.  parts  of  which  lay  26-40  ft.  helow  the 
level  of  the  Mediterranean,  while  the  S.  parts  required  extensive 
dredging  operations.  The  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal  was  inaugurated 
on  Nov.  17th,  1869,  with  magnificent  festivities  in  the  presence 
of  many  European  princes. 

The  cost  of  constructing  the  canal  amounted  to  about  19  million 
pounds  sterling,  of  which  12,800, 000(.  was  paid  by  the  shareholders, 
while  the  rest  of  the  sum  was  almost  entirely  contributed  by  the 
Khedive.  In  1875,  however,  the  British  Government  acquired 
177,000  of  the  Khedive's  shares  for  a  sum  of  4,000,000^.  The  canal 
belongs  to  the  Suez  Canal  Company  (Compagnie  Vniverselle  du  Canal 
Maritime  de  Suez),  founded  in  1854,  which  possesses  also  lands, 
buildings,  and  other  property,  valued  at  nearly  3,000,000f. 

The  canal  is  161  kilometres  flOO  M.")  in  length,  and  the  E. 
bank  is  furnished  with  distance-posts  at  intervals  of  5  kilometres. 
Near  the  stations  are  passing-places  for  the  large  steamers,  named 
'Gare  du  Nord'  and  'Gare  du  Sud'  respectively.  The  canal  is  now 
throughout  36  ft.  in  depth,  admitting  vessels  drawing  28  ft.  of  water. 
The  surface  varies  in  breadth  from  260  to  445  ft.,  while  the  minimum 
width  of  the  bottom  is  147  ft. 

The  great  mercantile  importance  of  the  Suez  Canal  is  apparent  from 
the  following  data.  The  distance  from  London  to  Bombay  via  the  Capo 
of  Good  Hope  is  12,548  English  miles,  and  via  the  Canal  TO'28  M.  only. 
The  saving  thus  effected  is  44  per  cent  of  the  distance.  From  Hamburg  to 
Bombay  by  the  Cape  12,903  M.,  by  the  Canal  7383  M.  ;  saving  43  per  cent. 
From  Trieste  to  Bombay  by  the  Cape  13,229  M.,  by  the  Canal  4816  31.;  saving 
63  per  cent.  From  London  to  Hongkong  by  the  Cape  15,229  M.,  by  the  Canal 
11,112  M.  ;  saving  28  per  cent.  From  Odessa  to  Hongkong  by  the  Cape 
16,629  M.,  by  the  Canal  8735  M. ;  saving  47  per  cent.  From  Marseilles  t(i 
Bombay  by  the  Cape  12,144  M.,  by  the  Canal  5022  BI.;  saving  59  per  cent. 
From  Constantinople  to  Zanzibar  by  the  Cape  10,271  M.,  by  the  Canal 
4365  M.;  saving  57  per  cent.  From  Kotterdam  to  the  Sunda  Strait  by  the 
Cape  13,252  M.,  by  the  Canal  9779  M. ;  saving  26  per  cent. 

The  canal  is  open  both  by  day  and  by  night  to  vessels  of  all  nation- 
alities.    The  following  table  illustrates  the  growth  of  traffic:  — 


No.  of 

Aggregate 

No.  of 

Aggregate 

Year 

vessels 

tonnage  t 

Year 

vessels 

tonnage  t 

1870 

435 

493,911 

1805 

4115 

13.132,694 

1875 

1494 

2,009,984 

1906 

3975 

13,443.392 

1880 

2026 

3,057.422 

1907 

4272 

14,728,32(! 

1F85 

3624 

6,335,753 

IfiOS 

3795 

13,640,199 

)885-S9 

8344 

6.286,089 

1909 

4239 

15,417,748 

1890-94 

356S 

7,799,B?6 

1910 

4.f)33 

16,581,898 

1895-99 

3387 

8,8a8.455 

1911 

49fi9 

18,324,794 

1900-4 

3769 

11,423,904 

1912 

5373 

20,275,120 

+  In  the  above  table  the  figures  for  lS85-irO'l  shuw  tlie  annual  averages; 
the  tonnage  for  1870  is  gross,  for  the  other  years  net. 


•Ui      c 

a 


=^^i] 
^^^ 


3  V  ^ 


Suez  Canal.  KL-KANTARA.  12.  Route.    185 

The  nationalities  of  the  vessels  traversing  the  canal  in  1912  were  as 
follows:  British  3*35;  German  698;  Dutch  343;  Austria -Hung.irian  24'^; 
French  221;  Italian  143;  Russian  126;  Japanese  63;  Norwegian  60:  Danish  45; 
Swedish  38;  Spanish  26;  American 5;  other  nationalities  22.  —  The  number 
of  passen:;er8  through  the  canal  in  1912  was  266,403  as  compared  with 
26,758  in  1870. 

The  dues  amount  to  6  fr.  26  c.  per  ton  for  all  vessels  except  ships  in 
ballast  for  which  the  dues  are  3  fr.  75  c. ;  10  fr.  for  each  passenger  (children 
half-price).  The  income  of  the  company  in  1910,  in  1911,  and  in  1912  was 
respectively  133,70i,212  fr.,  138,038,224  if r.,  and  139,922,639  fr.  The  expen- 
diture in  1912  w;.s  47,7'^5,624  fr. 

Steamers  arc  not  allowed  to  steam  through  the  canal  (except  in  the 
large  Bitter  Lakes)  above  a  speed  of  6  M.  per  hr.,  as  their  wash  would 
injure  the  embankments. 


b.  Passage  of  the  Suez  Canal. 

Port  Said,  see  p.  177.  —  I'lie  numerous  masts  in  the  harbour 
of  Port  Sa'id  remain  in  sight  long  after  we  quit  that  town.  The 
canal,  on  the  W.  bank  of  which  runs  the  railway  to  Isma'iliyeh 
(p.  179),  is  constructed  in  a  perfectly  straight  line  through  Lake 
Menzaleh,  but  the  part  of  the  lake  adjoining  the  canal  on  the  E. 
has  been  drained.  The  brackish  waters  of  this  lake  extend  over 
an  area  of  about  1000  sq.M.,  covering  what  was  once  one  of  the  most 
fertile  districts  in  Egypt,  formerly  intersected  by  the  three  most 
important  arms  of  the  Nile  (p.  Ixvii)  in  ancient  times,  the  Pelusiac, 
the  Tanitic,  and  the  Mendesian.  Among  the  numerous  towns  and 
villages  situated  here  were  the  importaitt  cities  of  Tanis  (p.  172) 
and  Tennis.  The  chief  village  is  now  Matariyeh  (p.  174).  Imuieuse 
flocks  of  pelicans  and  silver  herons  and  some  flamingoes  are  to  be 
seen  on  the  lake,  and  its  waters  are  fished  by  about  7000  boats, 
each  of  which  pays  a  monthly  tax  of  <£E  2.  For  steamers  of  the 
Menzaleh  Canal  and  Navigation  Co.,  see  p.  179.  —  The  first  station 
is  Er-Ranva  [Rassoua,  Rufsua ;  2uil  kilometre;  comp.  p.  179),  the 
next  is  (10  M.)  Rds  el-'Eish  (p.  179). 

Lake  Menzaleh  ends  at  (27 '/.2  M.)  £1-Kautara  [F.l-Qaniarn ; 
'the  bridge'),  an  isthmus  separating  it  from  Lake  Balali.  Over  this 
isthmus  led  the  ancient  caravau-route  from  Egypt  to  Syria.  The 
railway  from  Cairo  to  Port  Sa'id  (p.  1791  has  a  station  here.  The 
village,  with  its  mosque,  lies  on  the  Asiatic  bank  of  the  eanal.  The 
hill  to  the  left  commands  a  survey  of  the  environs. 

The  mounds  of  debris  named  Tell  Dffenneh  or  Tell  ed-Daffdneh  ('hill 
of  the  grave-diggers'),  situated  to  the  N.  of  the  caravan-route  between 
Es-Salihiyeh  (p.  112)  and  El-Kantara,  at  the  ancient  Pelusiac  mouth  of 
the  Nile,  contain  the  remains  of  a  camp  of  the  Greek  mercenaries  of 
F'samnicticbos  I.  These  were  e.xcavated  in  1886  by  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie, 
who  found  numerous  fragments  of  Greek  pottery,  arrow-heads,  and  weapons. 
Prof.  Petrie  identifies  the  spot  with  the  Greek  Daphnae  and  with  the 
Tahapams,  Tahpanhes,  or  Tehaphnehes  of  the  Bible  (.ler.  ii.  16  and  xliii.  7; 
Ezek.  XXX.  18,  etc.).  —  About  I'/z  JI.  to  the  E.  of  El-Kantara,  a  little  to 
the  S.  of  the  old  caravan-road,  lies  the  hill  of  Tell  Abu  Sei/eh,  with  the 
ruins  of  a  temple  of  Ramses  II.  and  remains  of  the  Ptcdemaic  and  Rom- 
an periods. 


186    Route  12.  HITTER  T.AKES.  Suez  Canal. 

A  moderate  day's  journey  (on  camels')  to  the  N.E.  of  El-Kantara  are 
situated  the  ruin-strewn  Tell  Farama  and  Tell  el-Fadda,  occupying  the  site 
of  Felusium.  the  celebrated  eastern  seaport  and  "key  to  Egypt  (comp. 
p.  cvi),  which  now  contains  no  objects  of  interest. 

The  canal  traverses  Lake  Balah,  now  almost  entirely  drained. 
At  El-Ferdan  (p.  179),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  the  canal  passes 
Through  the  first  cutting.  At  the  next  passing-place  we  obtain  a 
glimpse  of  the  desert. 

The  hills  of  El-Gisr  ('the  embankment'),  which  cross  the  course 
of  the  canal  at  an  average  height  of  52  ft.  above  the  sea-level, 
l)resented  the  most  serious  obstacle  to  its  construction.  In  order  to 
form  a  cutting  through  it  about  18,800,000  cubic  yds.  of  earth  had 
to  be  removed.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  tlic  deserted  village  of 
El-Gisr,  with  a  chapel  to  the  Virgin  of  the  Desert  and  a  ruined 
mosque.  A  flight  of  steps  ascends  to  this  point  from  the  canal. 
The  view  hence  embraces  a  great  part  of  the  Istlimus,  the  frowning 
'Ataka  Mts.  (p.  181)  above  Suez,  the  mountains  of  the  Peninsula 
of  Sinai,  the  course  of  the  canal,  and  the  green  expanse  of  the 
Bitter  Lakes. 

At  the  end  of  the  cutting  the  canal  enters  Lake  Tims&li,  or  the 
Crocodile  Lake,  the  dredged  channel  through  which  is  indicated  by 
stakes.  As  we  enter  the  lake  we  see  the  khedivial  chalet  (see 
p.  179)  above  us  to  the  right,  and  to  the  S.  the  mountains  of  Gebel 
Abu  Balah.  The  lake,  which  is  now  about  S'/'isq.  M.  in  area  and 
of  a  beautiful  pale-blue  colour,  was,  before  the  construction  of  the 
canal,  a  mere  pond  of  brackish  water,  and  full  of  reeds.  On  its  N. 
bank  lies  the  town  of  Ismailiyeh  (p.  179). 

After  quitting  Lake  Timsah  wc  pass  (r.)  the  foot  of  the  Gebel 
Maryam,  which  an  Arabian  legend  points  out  as  the  place  where 
Miriam,  when  smitten  with  leprosy  for  her  disapproval  of  the  mar- 
riage of  Moses  with  aTi  Ethiopian  woman,  spent  seven  days,  beyond 
the  precincts  of  the  camp  of  the  Israelites  (Numbers  xii).  —  At 
the  85th  kilometre  is  situated  (r.)  the  small  village  of  TusUn,  which 
is  easily  recognized  by  the  whitewashed  dome  of  the  tomb  of  a 
sheikh.  P^xcavations  near  Tusun  have  led  to  the  discovery  of  many 
interesting  fossil  remains  of  large  animals  belonging  to  the  miocene 
tertiary  formation,  and  pieces  of  fossil  wood  also  have  been  found 
here  (comp.  p.  118).  —  A  little  farther  on  (near  the  90th  kilo- 
metre) is  the  cutting  which  conducts  the  canal  through  tlie  rocky 
barrier  of  the  Serapeum  (comp.  p.  182). 

The  canal  now  enters  the  Large  Basin  of  the  Bitter  Lakes. 
Brugsch  identifies  the  Bitter  Lakes  with  the  Marah  of  the  Bible 
(  Exod.  XV.  23).  At  each  end  of  the  large  basin  rises  an  iron  light- 
house, 05  ft.  in  height.  The  water  is  of  a  bluish-green  colour.  The 
banks  are  flat  and  sandy,  but  a  little  to  the  S.W.  (r.)  rises  the 
not  unpicturesque  range  of  the  Gebel  Geneifeh  (p.  181).  The  bed 
of  the  Little  Bitter  Lake,  which  we  next  traverse,  consists  entirely  of 
shell-formations. 


SUEZ.  13.  Route.    187 

Near  Esh-SliaUufeh  (&  station  near  the  139tb  kilometre;  sec 
p.  181)  no  less  thau  45,000  cubic  yds.  of  limestone,  coloured  red 
and  brown  with  iron,  had  to  be  removed  in  the  course  of  the  ex- 
cavation of  the  canal.  This  stone  contained  teeth  and  vertebra- 
of  sharks,  bivalve  shells,  and  remains  of  Bryozoa.  In  the  layer  ol 
sand  above  the  limestone  were  found  crocodiles'  teeth  and  the  re- 
mains of  hippopotami  and  other  large  quadrupeds.  The  monument 
of  Darius  near  Esh-Shallufeh  is  mentioned  at  p.  182. 

We  finally  reach  the  (Julf  of  Suez,  which  is  here  so  shallow^  that, 
but  for  the  canal,  it  might  be  crossed  on  foot  at  low  tide.  It  con- 
tains several  islands.  On  the  W.  bank  rise  the  workshops  and 
magazines  of  the  Canal  Company.  Passengers  are  landed  in  steam- 
launches. 

Suez  ( Port  Tauftk  ,•  160  kilometres),  see  p.  188. 


13.  Suez  and  its  Environs. 

Railway  Stations.  1.  Arbaeen,  for  the  new  quarter  of  Arba'in;  2.  Rtie 
Colmar,  for  the  town  of  Suez;  3.  Terre-Plcin,  for  Port  Taufik  ;  4.  Docks 
Station,  for  the  docks.  —  Arrival  by  steamer,  see  above. 

Hotels.  Hotel  Bel-Aie  (PI.  a),  opposite  the  Eastern  Telegraph  Co.s 
office,  35  R.,  pen<>.  52  pias. .  good;  Hot. -  Restaoeant  d'  Okiest.  Rue 
Colmar.  At  Port  T.%ufik:  Hot.  du  Sisai,  to  the  E.  of  ihe  Terre-Pleiii 
.station  (p.  1S8);  Hot.  Savoi.  —  Habruner's  Bier/ialle,  Shari'  Caracol  el- 
Warsha,  near  the  Rue  Colmar  station. 

Post  Office,  near  the  harbour  (see  Plan).  —  Telegraph  Office  (Egyptian). 
at  the  JT.E.  corner  of  the  Government  Buildintjs.  Telegrams  to  foreign 
countries  should  be  despatched  by  the  wires  of  the  Eastern  Telegraph  Com- 
pany (PI.  2;  English).  —  CiSTOJl  HocsE  near  the  harbour  (PI.  1).  —  At  Poit 
Taufik  there  arc  branch-offices  of  the  post-office  and  of  both  telegrapli 
companies  and  a  sub-office  of  customs.  Mr.  G.  tfavro.  agent  for  Cook 
<fe  Son,  also  lives  at  Port  Taufik. 

Physicians.  Dr.  J.  Creswell  (head  of  the  Government  Hospital);  Dr. 
Gauthier  (head  of  the  French  Hospital).  —  Druggists.  Eippocrate,  Eliades., 
Pharmacie  Suez,  all  in  the  Rue  Oolmar. 

Consuls.  British  Proconsul,  F.  M.  Lockwood;  American  Consular  Agent, 
Fred.  T.  Peake.     There  are  also   I'rench,  German,  and  other  vice-consuls. 

Junction  Railway  between  the  town  (Station  Arbaeen)  and  the  harbour- 
island  (Docks;  11.  188),  in  9  min.  (fare  1  pias.);  trains  half-hourly  all  day. 

Rowing  Boats.  A  charge  of  S-10  pias.  is  usually  made  for  a  rowing 
boat  for  an  hour.  The  boatmen  arc  apt  to  be  extortionate  in  their 
demands,  as  passengers  on  the  large  "liners',  making  a  short  stay  only, 
are  often  too  lavish  in  their  payments.     Comp.  p.  189. 

Steamship  Agents.  Peninsular  db  Oriental  Co.,  Davidson;  North  German 
Lloyd,  Miiller  <t  Co.;  Hambury-Anifrican  Line  and  German  East  African  Lirn-, 
fi.  Meinecke;  Austrian  Llotjd,  A.  Tribel ;  lOiedivial  Mail  Line,  H.  Fraser; 
Messa/jeries  Marilimes,  J.  Jumeliu ;  Societa  ilarittima  Italiana,  L.  Deperais ; 
Societd  Italiana  di  Servizi  Marittimi,  at  Cook's  Agency  (see  above). 

Disposition  of  Time.  The  afternoon  of  the  day  of  arrival  may  be 
devoted  to  a  visit  to  the  Harbour  and  Canal  Entrance,  by  rowing-boat  or 
by  the  junction-railway  (see  above).  The  next  forenoon  (early  start  neces- 
sary; comp.  p.  189)  may  be  spent  in  an  excursion  to  the  Springs  of  Moses. 
A  visit  to  the  ('oral  Formations  (p.  189)  practically  involves  another  day's 
stav  at  Suez, 


188   Route  13.  SUEZ. 

Suez  (Arab.  iSwcis)  lies  at  the  head  oi'  the  gulf  of  that  name, 
one  of  the  N.  extremities  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Suez  Canal.  Before  the  construction  of  the  great 
■work  of  M.  de  Lesseps  it  was  a  miserable  Arab  village,  while  in 
1907  it  contained  18,347  inhab.,  including  2530  Europeans.  Nei- 
ther the  Arab  quarter,  with  its  seven  mosques  and  unimportant 
bazaar,  nor  the  European  quarter,  in  which  the  principal  street  is 
the  Rue  Colmar,  presents  any  attraction.  The  town  has  a  governor 
of  its  own. 

A  mound  of  debris  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  called  by  the  Arabs 
K6m  el-Kolzum,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  of  the 
Peninsula  of  Sinai,  the  sea,  the  harbour,  and  the  town.  This  hill 
was  probably  the  site  of  the  Ptolemaic  fortress  Klysma  as  well  as 
of  an  earlier  settlement  of  the  period  of  the  Pharaohs.  Beyond  the 
railway,  to  the  W.,  are  the  mud-huts  of  an  Arab  sailors'  quarter. 
—  A  little  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Fresh  Water  Canal 
(p.  180),  the  flow  of  which  into  the  conduits,  as  well  as  its  discharge 
into  the  sea,  is  regulated  by  means  of  a  large  lock.  The  level  of  the 
canal  is  here  61/2  ft.  above  that  of  the  Red  Sea.  On  its  banks,  and 
also  near  the  British  Cemetery,  are  gardens  in  which  fruit  and  vege- 
tables flourish  luxuriantly.  The  large  buildings  to  the  N.  of  it  are 
the  former  English  Naval  Hospital  and  the  engine-house  of  the 
Water  Works.  —  To  the  E.  of  the  canal  is  the  large  camping-ground 
for  caravans.  Numerous  pilgrims  to  Mecca,  chiefly  from  Egypt, 
Syria,  Turkey,  and  Bokhara,  pass  through  Suez. 

As  the  N.  extremity  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez  ends  in  a  shoal,  which 
is  dry  at  low  water,  the  entrance  of  the  Suez  Canal  and  the  ne- 
cessary harbour- works  were  constructed  2  M.  to  the  S.,  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  deep  water.  A  stone  Causeway,  50  ft.  wide,  on  which 
run  a  road  and  the  junction-railway  mentioned  at  p.  187,  connects 
the  town  with  these  works  and  affords  beautiful  views  of  the 
'Ataka  Mts.  on  the  W.  and  the  range  of  the  Peninsula  of  Sinai 
on  the  E. 

At  the  end  of  the  pier  is  Port  Taufik,  on  an  artificial  island, 
about  50  acres  in  area,  constructed  of  the  large  quantities  of  earth 
dredged  from  the  canal.  To  the  left  is  the  railway  station  of  Terre- 
Plein.  The  main  street  of  Port  Taufik  is  the  Avenue  HeVene,  over 
1000  yds.  in  length,  at  the  K  end  of  which  is  a  bronze  bust  erected 
by  M.  de  Lesseps  to  Lieutenant  Waghorn  (p.  183),  an  enterprising 
German  in  the  British  service,  who,  after  having  spent  the  best 
years  of  his  life  in  the  endeavour  to  establish  regular  communication 
between  England  and  India  via  Egypt,  died  in  London  in  poverty 
in  1850.  The  large  basin  to  the  S.W. ,  Port  Ibrdhim  (Docks  Station), 
is  spacious  and  well-protected  and  is  capable  of  containing  even 
large  war -ships.  —  The  situation  of  the  sand-banks  and  of  the 
navigable  channel  is  of  course  best  seen  at  low  tide. 


SPRINGS  OF  MOSES.  13.  Route.    189 

EXCDKSION  TO  THE  SPEINGS  OF  MoSES  (7-8  llIS.).  —  BoaU  (p.  187) 
and  Donkeys  (there  and  back  about  20  piaa.)  should  be  ordered  a  day  in 
advance,  and  an  early  morning  start  should  be  made  (about  6  a.m.).  A 
steam-launch,  for  which  application  should  be  made  to  a  consul  or  to  a 
steamship  agent,  is  preferable  to  a  rowing-boat.  Calm  weather  is  very 
desirable  for  this  excursion  also,  not  only  for  the  passage  in  the  boat  (by 
which  the  donkeys  also  must  be  conveyed)  but  also  because  the  driving 
sand  in  the  desert  is  very  disagreeable  in  a  high  wind.  About  2  hrs. 
should  be  allowed  for  the  stay  at  the  springs,  including  time  lor  luncheon 
(brought  by  the  traveller)  and  for  a  walk  on  the  beach. 

Tlie  distance  from  the  usual  landing-place  of  the  boats,  in  the 
entrance  to  the  Suez  Canal  (comp.  the  Map,  p.  187),  to  the  Springs 
is  about  6i/o  M.  (2  hrs.'  ride).  The  whole  of  the  route  thence  by 
land  traverses  the  sand  of  the  desert ,  skirting  the  sea,  which  lisg 
to  the  right.  Towards  the  W.  tower  the  imposing  'Ataka  Mts. 
[y.  181) ,  which  present  a  most  picturesque  appearance  on  the 
return-route.  To  the  left  rise  the  yellowish  ranges  of  the  Gebel 
er-Raha,  helonging  to  the  long  chain  of  the  Gebel  et-Tih,  and 
facing  the  S.E.  We  are  now  traversing  Asiatic  soil,  while  at  the 
same  time  the  eye  ranges  over  part  of  the  African  continent. 

In  favourable  weather  the  expedition  is  usually  made  by  sea 
to  the  pier  at  the  quarantine-station  (Esh-Shatt),  about  2  M"  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  Springs,  which  are  thence  reached  on  foot.  This  part 
of  the  Red  Sea  was  long  regarded  as  the  'reedy  sea'  across  which  the 
Israelites  fled  from  Pharaoh ;  now,  however,  this  is  generally  located 
farther  to  the  N.,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Bitter  Lakes,  which  at  that 
epoch  may  have  been  connected  with  the  Red  Sea. 

The  Springs  of  Moses  ('hjun  Musa)  form  an  oasis  of  luxuriant 
vegetation ,  about  five  furlongs  in  circumference.  Some  of  the 
springs,  which  vary  in  temperature  from  70°  to  84°  Fahr.,  are  only 
slightly  brackish,  while  others  are  undrinkably  bitter.  The  largest, 
in  the  garden  farthest  to  the  S.,  is  said  to  have  been  the  bitter 
spring  which  Moses  sweetened  by  casting  into  it  a  particular  tree 
(Exod.  XV.  23  et  seq.l. 

A  mound,  ca.  10  min.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  gardens,  which  is 
about  15  ft.  high  and  is  marked  by  a  solitary  palm-tree,  commands 
a  fine  view.  The  pool  on  the  top  of  the  moundis  one  of  the  most 
characteristic  of  the  springs,  and  is  full  of  animal  life.  —  Conchol- 
ogists  will  find  a  number  of  interesting  shells  on  the  beach  at  low 
tide,  but  the  best  places  are  farther  to  the  S. 

An  interesting  boating-excursion  may  be  made  in  good  weather  to  the 
Submarine  Coral  Oardens.  We  skirt  the  slope  of  the  coral  rock  '^Sha'db^, 
which  stretches  along  the  coast,  becoming  better  developed  the  farther  S. 
we  go.  Those  who  are  interested  in  marine  biology  should  land  on  the 
rock,  which  is  nearly  dry  at  low  water. 

From  Suez  to  Khartum,  see  R.  33. 

FnoM  SuKz  TO  JIoDNT  Si>?Ai  vifi  tlie  Springs  of  Moses  (8  days),  see 
Baedeker\<i  Palestine  and  Syria. 


190 


14.  The  Faiyum. 

For  a  visit  to  the  Faiyum,  a  fertile  and  attractive  district  with  many 
historical  associations,  four  days  are  desirable,  though  it  may  be  ac- 
complished in  two.  Travellers  with  a  slight  knowledge  of  the  language 
and  the  customs  may  dispense  with  a  dragoman.  1st  Day.  Railway  from 
Cairo  to  Medinet  el-FaiyAm ;  inspect  that  town  and  its  environs  (Kdm  Fdris). 
2nd  Dat.  Excursion  to  Hawdra  (Labyrinth)  s.uA.  lUahiXn;  in  the  afternoon 
on  to  Biahmu  by  carriage  or  donkey.  3ed  Day.  Excursion  to  Lake  Moeris, 
where  the  night  is  spent.  4m  Day.  Return  to  Cairo.  —  Hurried  travellers 
may  take  the  afternoon  train  from  Cairo  to  Medinet  el-FaiyCm,  where  the 
night  is  spent.  Next  morning  visit  Biahmu  (I'/z  hr.  there  and  back)  and 
K6m  Fdris  (there  and  back  1  hr.  on  foot),  or  drive  to  the  pyramid  of  Ha- 
lodra.  At  midday  they  go  on  by  train  to  Fbskuai,  vchence  they  proceed, 
by  carriage  or  donkey,  to  (1  hr.)  Lake  Moeris.  The  night  may  be  spent 
here  or,  if  necessary,  the  late  afternoon  train  may  be  caught  for  Cairo 
via  Medinet  el-Faiyiim.  —  Messrs.  Cook  &  Son  also  organize  six-day  and 
eight-day  desert -excursions  on  camels  from  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  via 
Sakkara  and  Dahshur  to  Tamiyeh,  Lake  Mceris,  and  Medinet  el -Faiyum, 
details  of  which  may  be  learned  at  Cook's  office  in  Cairo  (p.  38). 

Railway  from  Cairo  to  Medinet  el-Faiyum,  81  M.,  in  2i/2-4'A  l^rs.  — 
From  Medinet  el-Faiyum  radiate  two  narrow-gauge  railways  (besides  the 
main  line)  and  a  number  of  light  railways,  which  facilitate  visits  even 
to  remote  points.  —  Cakkiages  and  Hokses  may  be  obtained  at  the  Hotel 
Earoun  in  Medinet  el-Faiyum  (p.  191). 

Situation  and  History  of  the  Faiyum.  In  the  great  plateau  of  the 
Libyan  Desert,  which  rises  300-400  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  is  situated  the 
province  of  the  Faiy6m  (from  the  ancient  Egyptian  'Phiom",  i.e.  the  lake), 
the  first  of  the  oases,  which  is  usually  considered  to  belong  to  the  valley 
of  the  Nile,  and  is  justly  celebrated  for  its  extraordinary  fertility.  This 
tract  is  in  the  form  of  an  oval  basin  and  is  enclosed  by  the  Libyan  hills, 
which  are  here  of  moderate  height,  and  lies  about  three-fifths  of  a  degree 
to  the  S.  of  Cairo.  It  enjoys  a  remarkably  fine  climate.  Even  at  the  period 
of  the  Ptolemies  and  the  Romans  the  products  of  the  Faiyum  were  much  ex- 
tolled. 'The  Arsinoite  Nome\  says  Strabo,  'is  the  most  remarkable  of  all, 
both  on  account  of  its  scenery  and  its  fertility  and  cultivation.  For  it 
alone  is  planted  with  large  and  richly  productive  olive-trees,  and  the  oil  is 
good  when  the  olives  are  carefully  gathered;  those  who  are  neglectful  may 
indeed  obtain  oil  in  abundance,  but  it  has  a  bad  smell.  In  the  rest  of 
Egypt  the  olive-tree  is  never  seen,  except  in  the  gardens  of  Alexandria, 
where  under  favourable  circumstances  it  yields  olives  but  no  oil.  Vines, 
corn,  podded  plants,  and  many  other  products  also  thrive  in  this  district 
in  no  small  abundance.'  The  Faiyum  is  entirely  indebted  for  its  fertility 
to  the  Bahr  YHsuf  ('Canal  of  Joseph'),  which  diverges  from  the  Ibrahi- 
miyeh  Canal  at  Beirut  (see  p.  231),  and  flows  at  lUahun  (p.  194)  through  a 
narrow  opening  in  the  Libyan  chain  into  the  Faiyum,  where  it  divides 
into  numerous  ramifications,  abundantly  watering  the  whole  district.  At 
the  point  where  the  Bahr  Yusuf  enters  the  Faiyum  the  district  forms  a 
plateau  of  moderate  height,  descending  towards  the  W.  in  two  gradations 
towards  the  Birket  Karun  (p.  196).     Method  of  irrigation,  see  p.  Ixvi. 

In  antiquity  the  Faiyflm  was  known  as  Te-she  or  'lake-land'  (6r.  Limni, 
lake),  from  the  great  inland  lake  frequently  mentioned  and  described  by 
Greek  travellers  and  geographers  under  the  name  of  Lake  Moerit  (from  Egypt. 
me(rywer.,  mwir,  great  lake),  of  which  the  last  trace  must  be  recognized  in 
the  present  Birket  KarAn  (p.  196).  At  the  most  remote  period  the  lake  occupied 
almost  the  entire  basin  of  the  Faiyiim,  but  within  the  historical  period  its 
circumference  seems  to  have  been  about  140  M.  (though  Herodotus  says  3600 
stadia,  i.e.  445  M.)  and  its  area  about  770  sq.  BI.  According  to  recent  cal- 
culations  it  lay  73  ft.   above  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean,  whereas  the 


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MEDINET  EL-FAIYUM.        14.  Routt.    191 

present  lake  is  144  ft.  below  sea-level.  The  aucient  Lake  Moeris  thus  left 
uncovered  only  a  narrow  strip  of  fertile  land  on  the  S.,  known  as  the  'Lake- 
land', on  which  stood  the  capital  Shetet  (Crocodilopolis,  p.  192),  protected 
l)y  cmbaukoienta  against  inundation.  Several  rulers  of  the  12th  Dyn.  estab- 
lished their  camps  on  the  E.  margin  of  the  Lake-land,  and  Amenemhet  111. 
seems  to  have  shown  a  special  predilection  for  it.  Teye,  the  wife  of  Amen- 
ophis  III.  (18th  Dyn. J,  fixed  her  residence  near  niahun.  In  the  Greek  period, 
chiefly  in  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  the  lake-area  was  reduced  by 
means  of  embankments,  until  its  total  size  approximated  to  that  of  the 
modern  Birket  Karun.  Attempts  were  made  to  reclaim  land  for  agricultural 
purposes  by  draining  the  marshes ;  and  the  success  that  has  attended  these 
efforts  is  attested  by  the  fertile  fields  and  prosperous  villages  that  have  oc- 
cupied for  twenty  centuries  the  erstwhile  site  of  Lake  Ma;ris.  Strabo  de- 
scribes the  lake  in  the  following  terms:  'Owing  to  its  size  and  depth  Lake 
Moeris  is  capable  of  receiving  the  superabundance  of  water  during  the  in- 
undation without  overflowing  the  habitations  and  crops;  but  later,  when 
the  water  subsides,  and  after  the  lake  has  given  up  its  e.^cess  through  the 
same  canal  (i.e.  the  Bahr  Yusuf),  both  it  and  the  canal  retain  water  enough 
for  purposes  of  irrigation.  At  both  ends  of  the  canal  there  are  lock-gates 
by  means  of  which  the  engineers  can  regulate  the  influx  and  efflux  of  the 
water.'  The  method  by  which  the  distribution  of  the  excess  water  was 
accomplished  is  unknown.  Kear  the  modern  Illahun  there  is  a  lock  to 
this  day.  —  The  statement  of  Herodotus  that  Lake  Moeris  was  an  artificial 
construction  thus  rests  upon  an  error  and  is  moreover  in  direct  contra- 
diction to  Strabo's  account.  For  the  pyramid  and  statues  mentioned 
by  Herodotus  as  standing  in  the  lake,  see  p.  193. 

The  Faiyum  forms  a  separate  province.  The  Inhabitanls  are  fellahin, 
or  tillers  of  the  soil,  and  Bedxiins.  To  the  latter  race  belong  the  poor 
fishermen  who  inhabit  the  banks  of  the  Birket  Kariin.  —  Comp.  'The  Topo- 
graphy and  Geology  of  the  Fayum  Province  of  Hgypt',  by  S.  J.  L.  Beadnell 
(Report  of  the  Egyptian  Survey  Department;  Cairo,  1905;  30  pias.). 

From  Cairo  to  El-Wasta  (57  M.;  92  ft.),  see  pp.205,  206. 
Travellers  change  carriages. 

The  narrow-gauge  railway  to  the  Faiyuui  runs  towards  the  W., 
across  cultivated  land  (with  the  pyramid  of  Meidum  on  the  plateau 
to  the  right;  p.  205),  to  the  village  of  Kom  Abu  Rddi,  beyond  which 
it  traverses  a  desert  tract  and  crosses  the  low  and  bleak  Libyan 
chain  of  hills,  attaining  its  highest  point  at  190  ft.  above  the  sea. 
On  reaching  the  cultivated  districts  of  the  Faiyum  the  train  crosses 
the  Abdalla  Wahbi  Canal.  The  pyramid  of  Hawara  (p.  194)  is  seen 
to  the  left.  Beyond  ( I0V2  M.)  Seileh  (Seila,  Siala)  we  cross  the  Bahr 
Seileh  el-GecUd  and  the  Bahr  el-Wddi  or  El-Bats  Canal  (p.  196;  now 
reclaimed  for  tillage).  —  Near  (I8V2  M.)  Edweh  (Edwah;  69  ft.)  is 
a  cemetery.  In  the  distance  is  the  pyramid  of  Illahun  (p.  195), 
nearer  is  that  of  Hawara  (p.  194).   We  traverse  rich  arable  land. 

231/2  M.  Medinet  el-FaiyAm.  —  Hotels  (near  the  station).  EdUl 
Karoitn  (landlord,  Athanase  Tasco),  R.  10,  pens.  50  pias..  carr.  and  riding- 
animals  for  hire,  Hdfel  du  Fayoum  or  Locanda  Manuli,  pens.  40  pias., 
both  quite  plain.  —  Agency  of  the  National  Bank  of  Egypt. 

Medinet  el-Faiyum,  usually  known  as  El-Medlneh,  is  the  chief 
town  of  the  province  of  Faiyiim  and  contains  37,320  inhab.  (in- 
cluding many  (ireeks).  There  are  several  mosques,  a  large  Coptic 
church,  and  a  station  of  the  American  Mission.  The  long  covered 
bazaars  contain  nothing  of  special  interest.  The  mosque  of  Kd'it  Bey, 


192    Route  14.  CROCODILOPOLIS.  The  Faiydm. 

built  ou  a  bridge  over  the  Bohr  Y'O.suf  (p.  190),  lias  an  ancient  portal , 
■with  bronze-mounted  doors.  The  interior  has  been  restored.  At 
the  W.  end  of  the  town  the  Bahr  Yusuf  radiates  through  sluices 
into  numerous  branches.  0 

To  the  N.  of  the  town,  and  intersected  by  the  railway  to  Abuksa 
(see  below),  are  the  rubbish-mounds  known  as  Klmdn  Fdris,  or 
'riders'  hills',  covering  an  area  of  560  acres  and  rising  to  the  height 
of  65  ft.  These  mark  the  site  of  Crocodilopolis  -  Ai-sinoe,  tlie  most 
extensive  remains  of  any  old  Egyptian  town. 

The  ancient  Egyptian  name  of  this  town  was  Sheiet.  It  was  the  centre 
of  the  worship  of  the  crocodile-headed  water-god  Sobek  (ihe  Greek  Suchos), 
under  whose  protection  the  entire  lake-land  stood.  The  crocodile  was 
sacred  to  Sobek,  and  the  Greeks  therefore  named  the  city  Crocodilopolis 
or  'crocodile-town'.  It  never  attained  to  any  political  importance.  Ptol- 
emy II.  Philadelphns  seems  to  have  converted  it  into  an  essentially 
Hellenic  city  by  adding  new  quarters,  founding  Greek  temples  and  educa- 
tional institutions,  and  introducing  the  Greek  language.  This  monarch 
also  ra,ised  Queen  Arsinoe  to  the  dignity  of  patron-goddess,  and  the  district 
became  known  as  the  'Arsinoite  Nome'  and  the  capital  as  the  'City  of 
the  dwellers  in  the  Arsinoite  Kome%  or,  more  briefly,  as  Arsinoe.  At  the 
time  of  its  greatest  prosperity  it  had  over  100,000  inhabitants. 

In  the  midst  of  the  ruins  rises  a  mound  of  rubbish  known  as 
Kom  Fdris  (65  ft.  high).  The  top  commands  a  wide  survey  of  the 
modern  town,  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  and  the  whole  Faiyum, 
with  the  pyramids  of  Illahfin  and  Hawara  to  the  S.E.  The  rubbish- 
heaps  have  recently  been  much  diminished  by  brick-burners  and 
diggers  for  sabakh  (p.  Ixxi).  —  During  the  last  quarter  of  the  19tli 
cent,  important  discoveries  of  papyri  were  made  here,  especially  in 
the  mound  known  as  Kom  el-Kharydna.  Most  of  these  papyri  are 
now  in  the  late  Archduke  Rainer's  collection  in  Vienna,  while  others 
are  in  the  museums  of  London,  Berlin,  and  other  towns.  They  are 
chiefly  Greek  business-documents  (records,  receipts,  letters,  etc.), 
but  some  literary  specimens  also  have  been  found,  containing  frag- 
ments from  Homer,  Euripides,  Thucydides,  etc. 

The  best-preserved  section  of  the  ruins  is  that  to  the  N.,  which 
in  Prof.  Schweinfurth's  words,  Ho  this  day  produces  the  impression 
of  a  city  but  recently  destroyed.  The  walls  of  the  houses  still  stand 
far  and  wide,  but  the  narrow  interlacing  lanes,  bewildering  in  their 
ramifications  and  interrupted  by  countless  trenches  and  holes  in 
the  ground,  render  it  impossible  to  obtain  any  clear  idea  of  the 
general  plan'.  On  the  extreme  N.  edge  of  the  ruins,  near  the  farm 
of  'Ezbet  Tarkhat  Effendi,  are  a  few  blocks  of  limestone  marking 
the  site  of  the  principal  ancient  temple,  which  was  dedicated  to 
Sobek.  This  existed  as  early  as  the  12th  Dyn.  and  was  afterwards 
rebuilt  by  Ramses  II,  Beside  the  temple  lay  originally  the  sacred 
pond  in  which  the  crocodile  of  Sobek  was  kept. 

Nakrow  Gauge  Railways  run  from  Medinet  el-Faiyum  via  Senru 
(p.  196)  and  Ehshuai  (Eichaaai,  Ihshawai;  p.  196)  to  (15  M.)  Abuksa.^  and  via 
Biahmn  to  (7i/2  M.)  Senitres  (Sanouris;  light  railway,  see  p.  193),  a  district- 
capital  with  17,106  inhabitants. 


The  FaiyHm.  BIAHMU.  14.  Route.    193 

The  Fayoum  Agricultural  Light  Railways  also  radiate  in  various 
directions,  their  starting-point  adjoining  the  main  railway  station.  1.  Via 
Kuhdfelt  (p.  194),  lluwura  (for  the  Labyrinth,  p.  li  5),  and  Dimishkin  to 
illahUn  {M-LahiH;  pyramid,  p.  195j.  —  'i.  Via  Sheikh  IJasait  and  'Ezbet  Maltar 
to  Kalamsha  (Ealamchah),  whence  DesMsheh  (p.  207),  abdut  12  M.  to  the  S., 
may  be  reached  on  donkey-back  via  Abu  Hdmed  in  2'/-i-3  hrs.  —  3.  Via 
Ebgig  (Beglg ,  Abghigli .,  Abguig ;  see  below),  Difinu  (Difino,  Do/aiiou)  ,  Eisu 
(district-capital  with  ij518  inhab.),  iliniet  el-Beii  {El-Minia;  see  below), 
Shidmo  ( Chedmouh),  and  Sheikh  Abu  Ndr  to  El'-Onarak.  About  G  M.  to  the 
S.H.  of  El-Gharak,  on  the  Bahr  el-Gharak  Canal  on'  the  S.W.  border  of 
the  Faiyum,  near  the  modern  Unim  el-Baragat,  lay  the  ancient  Tebtynis, 
in  the  necropolis  of  which  a  number  of  mummitied  crocodiles  and 
numerous  papyri  were  found  in  1899-1900.  From  El-Gharak  an  interestiii'j; 
desert- expedition  may  be  made  in  one  day  on  camels  to  the  Wddi  Raydn, 
a  valley  on  the  way  to  the  oasis  of  Kahriyeh  (p.  379).  —  4.  To  Etsa  and 
iliniet  el-JIeii  (see  above),  and  via  Abu  Gandtr,  Nezleh-Beled,  and  Kasr 
el-Gebdli  to  Shawdshiieh  (p.  197).  —  5.  Via  Sufi,  MuliU  (Motonl),  Oar'adu. 
and  Tubhar  (Ttbhar)  to  Nezleh-Wddi.  —  6.  Via  Edweh  (p.  191),  Milirldrin 
(Malar  Tares),  Ma'savet-DOdch  (Maasarei  Douda)  to  Seniircs  (p.  192)  and 
'I'diiiiyeh  (TamUt;  p.  197).  —  7.  Via  Edweh  and  Milirldris  to  Forkos  and 
Er-R6da.  To  the  E.  of  Forkos  lies  the  village  of  Er-Rubiydt,  the  ancient 
Philadelphia,  in  the  necropolis  of  which  Theodore  Graf  found  the  famous 
mummy-portraits  he  brought  to  Europe. 

The  village  of  Biahmu  or  Bihatni/,  which  lies  on  the  railway  to 
Senures  (p.  192),  4V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  JMedinet  el -Faiyum,  is  usually 
visited  on  donkey-back  (ii/4  br. ;  there  and  back  15  pias.)  or  by  carriage 
(there  and  back  40  pias.).  The  fine  highroad  running  to  Senures  leads 
past  the  Government  School,  the  Government  Hospital,  and  several  country- 
houses.  It  then  traverses  fertile  fields  and  passes  palm  groves  and  fig- 
orchards,  affording  an  insight  into  the  fertility  of  the  district.  —  By  the 
railway-embankment,  about  '/z  ^-  'o  the  IJ.  of  the  station  of  Biahmu, 
rise  two  large  stone  Piles,  which  present  the  appearance  of  rained 
pyramids  and  are  called  by  the  natives  Mursi  Fara'dii  ('Pharaoh's  chair') 
or  Es-Sanam  ('the  idol').  These  were  the  pedestals  of  two  colossal  sandstone 
Statues'  of  King  Amenemhet  III.,  remains  of  which  have  been  found  by 
Lepsius  and  by  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie,  who  estimates  their  original  height 
at  40  ft.  The  learned  Father  Vansleb  of  Erfurt  saw  the  lower  portion  of 
one  of  these  figures  in  1672.  The  pedestals  were  once  washed  by  the 
waters  of  Lake  Jloeris,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  they  are  the  two 
pyramids  described  by  Herodotus  as  standing  in  Lake  Moeris,  each  with 
a  colossal  seated  human  figure  upon  it. 

From  MedTnet  el-Faitom  to  SenhCb,  91/2  J'.i  a  ride  of  about  3  hrs. 
This  line  route  leads  through  a  remarkably  fertile  and  well-cultivated 
region,  via  the  villages  of  Beni  Sdleh  and  Es-Sellytn.  Picturesquely  situa- 
ted on  a  clifl"  to  the  left  appears  the  village  of  Fidimln  or  Fademineh.  — 
Senhur  (Sanhour,  Sanhur)  is  a  large  village  occupying  the  site  of  a  con- 
siderable ancient  town. 

Near  Ebgig  (railway  station,  see  above),  2  JI.  to  the  S.W.  of  Medinet 
el-FaiyiJm,  lies  a  red  granite  obelisk,  now  broken,  which  must  once  have 
been  at  least  46  ft.  in  height.  The  natives  call  it  'Amdd,  or  the  column. 
The  inscriptions,  which  are  damaged  at  many  places,  inform  us  that  the 
monument  was  erected  by  Sesostris  I. 

The  Pyramid  of  Hawara,  the  Labyrinth,  and  lUahiin. 

The  excursion  to  the  Pyramid  of  Hawara  may  be  comfortably  accom- 
plished in  half-a-day.  We  take  the  light  railway  (see  above)  to  ('/z  lir.) 
Hawdra,  and  ride  thence  by  donkey,  which  we  must  bring  with  us  (comp. 
p.  191).  From  the  pyramid  we  ride  all  the  way  back  to  Medinet  el-Faiyum. 
Or  we  may  ride  all  the  way  to  the  pyramid  and  back  (ca.  3  brs. ;  15  pias.).  — 
A  visit  to  the  Pyramid  of  Illahun  requires  an  entire  day,  but  a  visit  to 
Hawara  may  be  included  on  the  return-route.    We  take  the  light  railway 


194    Route  14.  HAWARA.  The  Faiyxlm. 

to  Bash-Kdtib,  ride  thence  to  the  Pyramid  of  Illahun,  and  thence,  in  I1/2  hr-, 
to  the  Pyramid  of  Hawara.  —  Caekiage  to  the  Pyramid  of  Havvara  and 
back  45  piastres. 

1.  Railway  Journey  to  Hawara  and  Illahtln.  The  railway, 
following  the  same  conrse  as  tlie  highroad ,  leads  at  first  along 
the  bank  of  the  Bahr  YHsuf,  with  the  pyramid  of  Hawara  to  the 
left,  to  the  village  of  Kuhdfeh  (Kohafa).  Farther  on  it  traverses 
cultivated  fields,  with  the  heights  of  Gebel  Sedment  to  the  right, 
and  reaches  the  station  of  Hawara^  beside  the  village  of  Hawdret 
el-Makta',  with  its  pretty  mosque  (route  hence  to  the  pyramid,  see 
below).  To  the  left  is  a  large  cemetery,  with  the  graves  of  sheikhs. 
—  The  railway  now  again  approaches  the  Bahr  Yusuf.  The  remains 
of  old  embankments  which  we  see  from  the  train  date  from  the 
period  of  the  Caliphs.  —  Stat.  Bahr  Seileh  (Siala).  We  then  cross 
the  Bahr  Seileh  el-6ed1d,  which  diverges  from  the  Bahr  Yusuf.  The 
pyramid  of  Illahun  becomes  visible  on  the  left.  The  train  ap- 
proaches the  margin  of  the  desert.  —  The  station  of  Bash-Katib 
is  the  starting-point  for  the  pyramid  of  Illahun  (p.  196).  —  The 
train  then  traverses  fertile  land  to  Illah&a  or  EL-Lahfm  (Egypt. 
Le-hone,  i.e.  'mouth  of  the  canal',  see  p.  190),  a  village  with  3785 
inhab.,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf.  Close  to  the 
railway  station  is  the  sluice -bridge  ('pout  re'gulateur')  through 
which  the  Bahr  Yusuf  enters  the  Faiyum.  Beyond  the  bridge  is  the 
village  of  Hawdret  'Edldn  or  'Eglan,  a  picturesque  place  situated 
on  the  water.  About  2  M.  to  the  S.  W.  of  Illahun,  close  to  the  edge 
of  the  desert,  is  the  ruined  town  of  Medtnet  Ouroh,  discovered  by 
Professor  Flinders  Petrie.  It  owed  its  origin  to  Thutmosis  III.,  who 
built  a  temple  here. 

2.  The  Pyramid  of  Haw&ra,  the  tomb  of  Amentmhet  III.,  is 
reached  from  the  village  of  Hawdret  el-Makta''  (see  above)  in  about 
3/4  hr.  The  route  leads  to  the  N,,  through  fields,  to  the  desert 
plateau  on  which  the  pyramid  stands.  We  then  cross  abridge  over 
the  Bahr  Seileh  el-Ged7d,  which  intersects  the  plateau.  The  pyramid 
consists  of  crude  bricks,  and,  when  its  sides  were  perfect,  covered  an 
area  about  116yds.  square.  The  limestone  incrustation, however, had 
disappeared  even  in  the  Roman  period.  The  nucleus  of  the  struc- 
ture is  a  natural  mass  of  rock,  39  ft.  in  height.  The  dilapidated 
summit  is  easily  reached  in  a  few  minutes  by  a  well-worn  path. 
The  entrance  to  the  pyramid,  on  the  S.  side  (now  impassable), 
was  discovered  in  1889  by  Prof.  Flinders  Petrie.  An  intricate 
series  of  passages  in  the  interior  leads  to  the  tomb-chamber  in  which 
Amenemhet  III.  and  his  daughter  Ptah-nofru  were  interred. 

On  the  S.  the  pyramid  was  adjoined  by  the  large  mortuary  temple 
of  Amenemhet.  This  edifice,  however,  which  served  as  a  quarry  for 
centuries  after  the  Roman  period,  has  completely  vanished,  with 
the  exception  of  an  extensive  space  strewn  with  small  splinters  of 
stone  and  fragments  of  fine  granite  and  limestone  columns.   Traces 


The  FaiyHm.  HAWARA.  14.  Route.   195 

of  its  walls  may  be  recognized  also  in  the  sloping  banks  of  the 
Bahr  Seileh  el-Gedid.  There  is  no  donbt  that  .this  edifice  was  the 
famous  Labyrinth,  of  which  ancient  travellers  speak  with  such 
unbounded  admiration. 

For  the  best  description  we  are  indebted  to  Strabo,  who  visited  the 
Labyrinth  in  person.  He  says:  'There  is  also  the  Labyrinth  here,  a  work 
as  important  as  the  Pyramids,  adjoining  which  is  the  tomb  of  the  king 
who  bnilt  the  Labyrinth.  After  advancing  about  30-40  stadia  beyond  the 
first  entrance  of  the  canal  we  reach  a  table-shaped  surface,  on  which 
rise  a  small  tiwn  and  a  vast  palace,  consisting  of  as  many  royal  dwellings 
as  there  were  formerly  nomes.  For  there  is  that  precise  number  of  courts, 
bordered  with  columns  and  adjoining  each  other,  all  being  in  the  same 
row,  and  forming  one  building,  like  a  long  wall  having  the  courts  in  front 
of  it.  The  entrances  to  the  courts  are  on  the  opposite  side  from  the  wall. 
In  front  of  the  entrances  are  numerous  long  covered  passages,  intersect- 
ing each  other  and  thus  forming  such  a  winding  path  that  a  stranger 
cannot  find  his  way  info  or  out  of  each  court  without  a  guide.  It  is  a 
marvellous  fact  that  each  of  the  ceilings  of  the  chambers  consists  of  a 
single  stone,  and  also  that  the  passages  are  covered  in  the  same  way 
with  single  slabs  of  extraordinary  size,  neither  wood  nor  other  building 
material  having  been  employed.  On  ascending  to  the  roof,  the  height  of 
which  is  inconsiderable  as  there  is  only  one  story,  we  have  a  survey  of 
the  flat  stone  surface  consisting  of  these  large  slabs.  On  emerging  from 
the  covered  passages  we  have  a  view  of  them  e.^tending  in  one  line,  each 
borne  by  twenty-.^even  monolithic  columns.  The  walls  also  are  constructed 
of  stones  of  similar  size.  At  the  end  of  this  structure,  which  is  more 
than  a  stadium  in  length,  is  the  tomb,  con.^isting  of  a  square  pyramid, 
each  side  of  which  is  four  plethra  (400  ft.)  in  length,  and  of  equal  height. 
The  deceased  who  is  buried  here  is  called  Imandes.  It  is  asserted  that 
so  many  palaces  were  built  because  it  was  the  custom  for  all  the  nomes, 
represented  by  their  magnates,  with  their  priests  and  victims,  to  assemble 
here  to  offer  sacrifice  and  gifts  to  the  gods,  and  to  deliberate  on  the  most 
important  concerns.  Each  noma  then  took  possession  of  the  hall  destined 
for  it.' 

The  remains  of  brick  buildings,  which  still  linger  on  the  mounds 
of  rubbish  to  the  E.  of  the  temple  and  were  erroneously  regarded 
by  Lepsius  as  remains  of  the  Labyrinth,  date  from  a  village  of  the 
Roman  period.  —  To  the  N.  of  the  pyramid  stretches  the  large  Ne- 
cropolis used  since  the  period  of  the  Middle  Empire  by  the  richer 
inhabitants  of  Shetet-Crocodilopolis  (p.  192). 

The  Return  to  Medinet  el-Faiyiim  may  be  made  in  1  V2l"".  with- 
out again  touching  Hawaret  el-Makta',  as  follows.  We  cross  the 
Bahr  Seileh  el-Gedid  (^p.  194)  and  ride  along  its  \V.  bank  for  some 
distance,  next  continue  in  a  W.  direction  through  the  fields,  and 
then  cro.'s  the  fllled-in  Bahr  el-Wadi  (p.  191),  which  is  partly  culti- 
vated and  partly  covered  witli  reeds.  We  next  proceed  through 
desert  and  fertile  land  to  the  village  of  Kuhdfeh  (p.  194),  charm- 
ingly situated  on  the  Bahr  Yusuf,  whence  we  follow  the  railway- 
embankment  to  the  town. 

3.  The  Pyramid  of  Illahto,  the  tomb  of  Seaostris  II.,  is  most 
easily  visited  (20mln.)  from  Bash- Katib  (p.  194)  or  Illahfln  (p.  194). 
The  pyramid  is  constructed  of  Nile  bricks,  piled  up  upon  a  rocky 
nucleus  bearing  a  star-shaped  framework  of  low  walls  built  of 
massive  Jimestone  blocks. 


196    Route  U.  BIRKET  KARDN.  The  Faiyum. 

About  V^  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  pyramid  of  Illahun  Pmf.  Flinders  Petrie 
discovered  in  1889  the  ruins  of  the  town  of  Hetep-Senwotret  CCoatenteA  is 
Senwosref),  which  he  called  Kahun.  This  town  was  founded  by  Sesostris 
(Senwosret)  II,  (12th  Dyn.)  and  had  but  a  brief  existence.  Numerous 
domestic  articles  were  found  among  the  ruined  houses. 


The  Birket  Karun  (Lake  Mceris)  and  its  Environs. 

From  Medinet  el-Faiyum  and  back,  1-2  days.  We  take  the  noon  train 
to  Ebsbuai  and  go  on  thence  by  donkey  (5  pias.)  or  carriage  (there  and 
back  40,  including  first-class  railway  fare  60  pias. ;  no  room  for  luggage) 
to  the  Hdtel  Moeris  (see  below).  Next  morning  we  make  an  early  start 
and  row  to  Dimei,  returning  to  Medinet  el-Faiyum  or  Cairo  in  the  after- 
noon. —  Those  who  wish  to  visit  also  the  temple  at  Kasr  Kardii  and  to 
extend  the  expedition  (say  for  4  days)  cannot  dispense'  w"ith'  a  dragoman 
(obtained  at  the  Hotel  Moeris). 

The  railway -journey  from  Medinet  el-Faiyiim  to  (I21/2  M.) 
Ebshuai  (Ehchawa'i)^  a  station  on  the  Wasta-Ahuksa  line  (pp.  191, 
192),  takes  ca.  ll/4hr.  Beyond  (T^/o  M.)  Senru  (Senaro,  Senarov, 
Sinaru)  lie  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  town. 

From  Ebshuai  a  carriage-road  leads  to  the  N. ,  at  first  through 
cultivated  land,  then  crossing  the  ancient  bed  of  the  lake.  Various 
small  water-courses  and  canals  are  crossed  ;  and  after  a  ride  of  1  hr. 
we  reach  the  hanks  of  the  Birket  Karun,  which  are  covered  with 
reeds  and  tamarisk  shrubs.  Here  lies  the  Hotel  Moeris,  which  be- 
longs to  the  owner  of  the  Hotel  Karoun  in  Medinet  el  -  Faiyum 
(p.  191)  and  consists  of  two  ordinary  bedrooms  and  of  four  sleeping- 
tents  with  two  beds  each  (pens.  80  pias.).  Boat  on  the  lake  lO 
pias.  per  hr. ,  1/2  ^^Y  50,  across  the  lake  80  pias.;  bargain  necessary) ; 
fine  views  towards  sunset. 

The  Birket  Karthi,  i.e.  'lake  of  Karun'  (the  Hebrew  Korah),  is 
the  Lake  Moeris  of  the  Greeks  (comp.  p,  190).  It  measures  25  M.  in 
length  and,  at  its  broadest  part,  is  barely  6  M.  wide.  At  the  ferry 
to  Dimei  the  depth  is  not  above  16  ft.,  but  it  is  said  to  increase 
towards  the  S.W.  The  greenish  water  is  slightly  brackish  and  is  not 
fit  for  drinking.  The  N.  bank  is  sterile,  but  on  the  S.  the  cultivated 
land  often  reaches  as  far  as  the  lake.  The  right  of  fishing  is  let  by 
government,  and  the  whole  of  the  fishermen  on  the  lake  are  in  the 
service  of  the  lessee.  Water-fowl  are  sometimes  abundant  but  are 
far  too  shy  to  be  approached  within  gunshot. 

The  lake  is  crossed  with  a  favourable  wind  in  about  2  hrs.  To 
the  E.  appears  a  considerable  peninsula,  with  rubbish -heaps.  In 
the  lake  lies  the  large  island  called  Oeziret  el-Kurn,  or  'island  of 
the  horn'.  On  the  N.  bank  of  the  lake  are  barren  hills  of  considerable 
height.  From  the  landing-place  a  somewhat  steep  path  ascends  to 
the  (l"^/4  M.)  ruins  and  temple  of  — 

Dimei  (Dimay).  The  fortified  position  of  this  town,  named  in 
antiquity  Soknopaiou  Nesos,  i.e.  'island  of  Sokuopaios'  (a  form  of 
Sobek,   the  Faiyilm  deity),  provided  a  secure  point  of  departure 


TheFaiyum.  KASR  KARUN.  14.  Route.    197 

for  the  caravans  trading  with  the  oases  in  tlie  Libyan  Desert 
The  ruins  cover  an  area  of  about  125  acres,  A  street  400  yds.  in 
length,  formerly  embellished  with  figures  of  recumbent  lions,  leads 
past  well-pre^crved  houses  to  a  platform  on  which  an  important 
temple  once  stood.  This  temple,  built  under  the  Ptolemies,  was 
dedicated  to  Soknopaios  (p.  196)  and  the  'beautifully  enthroned 
Isis'.  The  precinct  was  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall,  and  the  temple 
itself  contaii\ed  several  apartments,  those  in  the  rear  being  lined 
with  well-jointed  limestone-blocks  and  those  in  front  having  walls 
of  roughly  hewn  stone  coated  with  stucco.  Very  few  reliefs  have 
been  found  here ;  on  one  appears  a  Ptolemy  praying  before  a  ran- 
headed  deity  (probably  Amon). 

At  the  foot  nf  a  steep  descent  in  the  Libyan  Desert,  about  5  M.  to 
the  N.  of  Dimei,  Prof.  Schvveinfarth  diacovered  the  small  Temple  of  A'asr 
fS-Sdglia.  It  coiusists  of  blocks  of  limestone  and  contains  seven  recesses 
and  several  i>ther  apartments,  but  no  sculptures  or  inscriptions.  In  the 
vicinity  are  remains  of  an  ancient  quay. 

In  the  desert,  to  the  E.  from  the  E.  bank  of  the  lake  and  to  the  N.W. 
from  Tamiyeh  (p.  193),  rises  the  mound  oi  Kom  Us/iim,  covering  the  ruins 
of  Karanis.  a  Greek  town  frequently  mentioned  in  local  history,  with  a 
temple  of  Pnepheros  and  Petesuchos.  —  The  mound  called  Umm  el-All, 
7  31.  to  the  K.  of  Karanis,  marks  the  site  of  Bacchias,  with  a  ruined 
Greek  temple.  Both  mounds  were  explored  in  1896  by  Messrs.  Hogarth 
and  Grenfell,  at  the  expense  of  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund. 

The  ruins  marking  the  site  of  Kasr  Kardn  lie  at  the  S.  W,  end  of 
the  Birket  Kariin,  We  land  on  the  promontory  of  Khashin  KhalU, 
which  is  overgrown  with  tamarisks  and  reeds.  Ascending  thence 
across  the  desert  for  about  an  hour,  we  reach  the  temple,  which  is 
now  2'/4  M.  from  the  lake,  thotigh  it  originally  stood  on  its  bank. 
The  fishermen  object  to  pass  the  night  here,  being  afraid  of  the 
Beduins  and  the  'Afrit  (evil  spirits). 

Kasr  Kariin  is  most  conveniently  visited  from  Shawdshneh  (El-Cha- 
wachhah),  a  station  on  the  light  railway  (p.  193). 

Kasr  Ear<in  is  a  fairly  well  preserved  temple,  of  the  late  Pto- 
lemaic period.  The  numerous  traces  of  an  ancient  town  that  sur- 
round it  are  probably  those  of  Dionysias,  which  was  situated  on  the 
extreme  "W.  verge  of  the  Roman  province  of  Egypt,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  caravan-route  to  the  'Small  Oasis'  {^Bahriyeh,  p.  379).  A  cir- 
cular foundation-wall  indicates  the  site  of  an  ancient  cistern.  The 
walls  of  the  temple  consist  of  carefully  hewn  blocks  of  hard  lime- 
stone. This  temple,  like  almost  all  the  shrines  in  the  oases,  was 
dedicated  to  the  ram-headed  Amon-Ivhnum,  as  is  proved  by  two 
figures  of  this  deity  standing  at  the  highest  part  of  the  posterior  wall 
of  the  upper  story  of  the  open  roof.  The  winged  sun-disk  occurs  over 
each  gateway  in  the  building.    There  are  no  ancient  inscriptions. 

The  temple  is  21  yds.  in  width  across  the  faiade  and  'J'JV^yds.  in  length. 
The  entrance,  facing  the  E.,  is  approached  by  a  lofty  and  carefully  con- 
structed platform,  14  yds.  in  length,  forming  a  forecourt.  On  the  facade 
of  the  temple,  to  the  right  (N.)  of  the  entrance-door,  is  a  huge  half-column, 
forming  a  relic  of  a  pillared  hall.    On  the  lower  floor  are  the  apartmentn 


198   Route  14.  KASR  EL-BANAT. 

of  the  temple  which  were  dedicated  to  worship.  In  the  first  three  Ante- 
rooms the  ground  slopes  down  towards  the  Sanctuary,  which  waa  di- 
vided into  three  small  rooms  at  the  back.  The  sanctuary  is  flanked  by 
two  narrow  passages,  each  of  which  is  adjoined  by  three  rooms.  The  ante- 
rooms also  have  adjacent  chambers  from  which  we  may  enter  the  cellars 
or  ascend  by  two  flights  of  steps  to  the  upper  floor,  with  its  different  apart- 
ments, iind  thence  to  the  roof,  whence  we  obtain  an  extensive  view  of 
the  remains  of  the  ancient  city,  of  the  lake,  and  the  desert.  Over  the 
doors  leading  into  the  second  and  third  anterooms  and  into  the  sanctuary, 
instead  of  the  ordinary  concave  cornice,  there  is  a  series  of  Urseus-snakes. 

To  the  E.  of  the  large  temple  are  situated  two  smaller  temples, 
in  tolerable  preservation.  One  of  them,  which  has  the  same  axis 
as  the  large  temple,  is  a  kiosque,  resembling  in  ground-plan  the 
kiosque  of  Philae  (p.  370);  the  second  and  larger  of  the  two  is 
situated  300  paces  from  tlie  smaller.  Its  walls  (18  ft.  by  19  ft.) 
consist  of  good  burnt  bricks  and  its  substructures  of  solid  stone. 
The  sanctuary  terminates  in  a  niche  resembling  an  apse;  on  each 
of  the  side-walls  are  two  half-columns  which,  as  the  fragments 
lying  on  the  ground  show,  belong  to  the  Ionic  order. 

About  8'/2  31.  to  the  S.E.  of  Kasr  Karun  are  the  ruins  of  Kasr  el-Banat, 
the  ancient  JSuhemeria,  including  the'  remains  of  a  temple  of  Suchos  and 
Isis.  —  About  5  M.  to  the  W.  of  Kasr  el-Banat  are  the  ruins  of  the  an- 
cient Philoteris,  now  known  as  Wadfa;  l^J4  M.  to  the  .S.E.,  beside  the  village 
of  Harit  (Batii  Harlt),  lie  the  ruins  (including  a  temple  of  the  crocudile- 
god  Pnepheros)  and  the  necropolis  of  the  ancient  TheadelpMa.  All  these 
places,  which  were  founded  under  the  early  Ptolemies  in  the  reclaimed 
bed  of  Lake  Mceris,  have  been  recently  explored  by  the  English  travellers 
Grenfell  and  Hunt. 


UPPER  EGYPT. 


Route  Page 

Preliminary  Information 200 

15.  From  Cairo  to  Luxor  by  Railway 205 

Tell  el-'Amarna 211 

16.  From  Cairo  to  Assiflt  by  the  Nile 224 

Benihasan 226 

Assiflt 232 

17.  From  Assiu$  to  Girgeh  and  Baliana  (Abydos)  by  the  Nile  235 

18.  Abydos 237 

19.  From  Baliana  to  Keneh  and  Luxor  by  the  Nile.  Deudera  244 

20.  Luxor  and  its  Environs:  the  Site  of  Ancient  Thebes    .   251 

Topography  and  History  of  Thebes 253 

A.  The  East  Bank  at  Thebes  : 

1.  Luxor 257 

2.  Karnak 262 

a.  Temple  of  Khons,  262.  —  b.  Great  Temple 

of  Amon,  264.  —  c.  Northern  Buildings,  276. 

—  d.  Southern  Buildings,  278. 

Excursion  to  Medamut 281 

B.  The  West  Bank  at  Thebes  : 

3.  The  Temple  of  Sethos  I.  at  Kurna 282 

Necropolis  of  Drah  Abu'l  Negga 283 

4.  Biban  el-Muliik.    Tombs  of  the  Kings   ....   284 

5.  From  Biban  el-Muluk  to  Deir  el-Bahri  and  Asasif  299 

B.  The  Ramesseum 306 

7.  The  Tombs  of  Sheikh 'Abd  el- Kurna 309 

S.  Deirel-Medineh.  KurnetMurraT.  Queens' Tombs  31G 
9.  Medinet  Habu  .    .' 322 

High  Gate  or  Pavilion  of  Ramses  III.,  322.  — 
Main  Temple  of  Ramses  III.,  323.  —  Temple  of 
the  18th  Dynasty,  328. 
10.  The  Colossi  of  Memnon 330 

21.  From  Luxor  to  Assuan  by  Railway 332 

El-Kab.  Gebel  Silsileh ;!83,  338 

22.  From  Luxor  to  Edfu  by  the  Nile 341 

23.  From  Edfu  to  Assuan  by  the  Nile.  Kom  Ombo    .    .    .   348 

24.  Assuan  and  its  Environs 353 

Excursion  to  Philae  and  the  Nile  Dam 362 

25.  Routes  through  the  Eastern  Desert:  from  Keneh  to  Abu 

Shar  el-Kibli;  from  Keneh  to  Kos.eir 372 

From  Redesiyeh  to  Bereniko.  ICmerald  Mines  in  the 
wadi  Sakeit  and  on  the  Gebel  Zubara.  Gold-mines 
of  Umm  Rus,  376,  377. 

26.  The  Western  Oases:  Stweh,  Babriyah,  Farafra,  Khargeb, 

and  Dakhleh '. 378 


IUkdkkkr'9  Egypt.     7th  Edit.  13 


200  UPPER  EGYPT.  Preliminary 

Visitors  to  the  temples  and  tombs  of  Upper  Egypt  and  Nubia 
should  be  provided  with  a  Gbnbeal  Admission  Ticket,  which  may 
be  obtained  (price  £  E  1.20  pias.)  at  the  Museum  of  Cairo  (p.  81), 
from  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (p.  38),  at  the  office  of  the  Hamburg  & 
Anglo-American  Nile  Co.  (p.  38),  or  from  the  inspectors  of  the 
antiquities  at  Luxor  and  Assiiit. 

The  ordinary  traveller,  desiring  to  visit  only  the  principal  points 
of  interest,  may  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Nile  either  by  railway  or 
by  steamboat.  By  Railway  not  less  than  a  fortnight  is  required 
for  a  visit  to  the  chief  points.  Those  who  use  the  Toueist  Steam- 
boats, spending  3  or  4  weeks  on  the  voyage,  enjoy  a  much  more 
thorough  and  convenient  survey;  while  the  voyage  on  the  Nile  has 
so  many  attractions  of  its  own  that  even  the  most  hurried  traveller 
should  make  a  point  of  proceeding  by  river  at  least  between  Luxor 
and  Assuan.  At  the  same  time  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  in 
travelling  by  tourist-steamboat  one  is  a  member  of  a  party  and 
has  to  surrender  some  of  the  free  control  of  one's  time.  The  most 
attractive,  but  also  the  slowest  and  most  expensive,  method  of 
ascending  the  Nile  is  by  Dahabitbh  (p.  204).  —  Moonlight  adds  a 
peculiar  charm  to  a  visit  to  the  ruins  at  Luxor  and  Assuan.  It  is  as 
well  for  the  independent  traveller  to  avoid  as  far  as  possible  com- 
ing into  contact  with  the  large  parties  organized  by  the  tourist- 
agents,  for  otherwise  circumstances  are  apt  to  arise  in  which  he  is 
pushed  to  the  wall,  without  any  redress. 

Railway.  Travellers  who  desire  to  see  as  much  as  possible  in  a 
short  time  and  are  impatient  of  the  restrictions  of  an  organized  party 
may  visit  Upper  Egypt  by  train.  Trains  daily  from  Cairo  to  Luxor 
in  131/4-14  hrs.,  see  R.  15;  from  Luxor  to  Assuan  in  61/4-83/4  hrs., 
see  R.  21.  The  following  scheme,  which  is  recommended  to  some- 
what experienced  travellers  only,  takes  about  a  fortnight  and  includes 
the  chief  points  of  interest  as  far  as  Assuan. 

1st  Day.   To  Minyeh  (p.  208).  Thence,  on  the  — 

2nd  Day.  Visit  the  rock-tombs  of  Benihasan  (p.  226)  and  the 
luins  of  Antinoupolis  (p.  209). 

3rd  Day.  Visit  Tell  el-'Amama  (p.  211).  Spend  the  night  at 
Mellawi  (p.  210)  or  push  on  to  Assiut. 

4th  Day.  AssiHt.  Visit  the  Nile  Barrage  (p.  232)  and  the  Rock 
Tombs  (p.  234). 

5th  Day.  SoMg  (p.  219).  Visit  the  Bed  and  White  Convents 
(p.  220)  and  make  an  excursion  to  Alchmm  (p.  220). 

6th  Day.    Baliana  (p.  221).    Visit  Ahydos  (p.  237). 

7th  Day.    Keneh  (p.  222).   Visit  Dendera  (p.  244). 

8-llth  Days.  Luxor  (p.  251).  Visits  to  Karnak  (p.  262)  and 
the  W.  bank  at  Thebes  (p.  281).    Excursion  to  Esneh  (p.  342). 

12-14th  Days.  Via  Edfu  (p.  343)  to  Assuan  (p.  353).  Visit  Philae 
and  the  Nile  Dam  (p.  362).   Excursion  to  Kom  Ombo  (p.  349). 


Information.  UPPER  EGYPT.  201 

An  easier  plan  is  as  follows.  Quitting  Cairo  by  the  night-express 
we  reach  Bnliaixa  (p.  221)  next  morning,  and  ride  thence  on 
donkey-back  to  Abydos  (p.  237).  Provisions  lor  this  expedition 
must  be  brought  from  Cairo.  We  have  sufficient  time  to  explore 
the  niins  at  Abydos  before  catching  the  evening-traiTi  fcr  Luxor 
(p.  251).  At  least  four  days  should  be  devoted  to  an  inspection 
of  the  temples  and  tombs  at  Thebes.  On  leaving  Luxor  we  may 
either  stop  over  a  train  at  Edfu  (p.  343;  which,  however,  may  be 
just  as  well  visited  on  the  way  back)  or  proceed  straight  through 
to  Assudn  (p.  353),  where  not  less  than  two  days  should  be  spent. 
If  possible,  one  should  devote  a  day  to  an  excursion  to  Kom  Ombo 
(p.  349).  We  leave  Luxor  on  our  return  by  the  first  morning-train 
and  break  the  journey  at  Keneh  (p.  222),  whence  we  ride  to  the 
temple  oiDendera  (p.  244).  Provisions  must  be  brought  from  Luxor 
for  this  expedition.  From  Keneh  we  go  on  to  Cairo  by  the  north 
express.  We  may  visit  Dendera  also  as  a  day's  excursion  from  Luxor 
and  take  Abydos  instead  on  the  return-journey  (comp.  below). 

A  Tour  of  Theee  Weeks  may  be  arranged  somewhat  as  follows. 
We  proceed  by  railway  to  Luxor  and  spend  a  week  there,  one  day 
of  which  may  be  devoted  to  an  excursion  to  Dendera  (by  train  to 
Keneh  and  back).  From  Luxor  we  go  on  by  steamer  (2  days)  or  by 
railway  (1  day)  to  Assuan,  where  we  spend  5  days,  including  one 
day's  excursion  to  Kom  Ombo.  We  may  then  return  by  steamer  to 
Cairo,  or  we  may  take  the  steamtr  to  Luxor,  make  another  short 
stay  there,  and  go  on  by  train  in  the  morning  to  Baliana  (visit  to 
the  ruins  of  Abydos')  and  take  the  evening-train  thence  to  Cairo. 

The  railway  may  be  utilized  for  other  excursions  bj'  travellers  who 
are  to  some  extent  familiar  with  the  customs  and  language  of  the  country. 
The  nights  may  be  spent  in  the  station  waiting-rooms  (with  permission 
of  the  station-master)  or  at  the  houses  of  the  local  headmen  ('Omdeh). 
Warm  rngs  and  provisions  (preserved  meats,  tea,  mineral  waters)  must 
be  brought  from  Cairo. 

Steamboats.  The  steamboat  service  to  Upper  Egypt  is  main- 
tained by  two  companies:  Messrs.  Thomas  Cook  i^  Son,  the  more  im- 
portant, and  the  Hamburg  i$'  Anglo-American  Nile  Co.  —  Passengers 
by  steamer  who  sleep  with  the  cabin-window  open  should  take  care 
to  have  sufficient  bedclothes;  and  it  is  well  to  remember  (e.g.  when 
shaving)  that  the  steamers  sometimes  run  aground,  especially  above 
Luxor.  Delay  through  this  last  fact  occasionally  necessitates  the 
completion  of  the  journey  to  Cairo  by  railway  in  order  to  make 
connection  with  the  ocean-steamers. 

The  best  boats  of  Thomas  Cook  &  Son  are  the  'tourist-steamers' 
Arabia  (80  berths),  Egypt  (80  berths),  Barneses  the  Great  (80  berths), 
Barneses  (79  berths),  and  Rameses  III.  (70  berths),  after  which 
rank  the  Amasis  (44  berths)  and  the  Tewfik  (46  berths).  One  of 
the  above  steamers  starts  once  a  week  during  the  season,  spending 
20  days  on  tlie  voyage  to  Assuan  and  back.  The  fare  is  621.;  for 
occupants  of  the  few  superior  cabins  in  the  stern,  specially  adapted 

13* 


202  UPPER  EGYPT.  Preliminary 

for  invalids,  GOl.,  and  for  upper  deck  suites  on  the  ^Arabia'  and 
'Egypt'  Sbl.  These  prices  include  provisions  (wine,  mineral  waters, 
etc.,  excepted),  all  necessary  travelling  expenses,  donkeys,  English 
saddles  for  ladies,  boats  to  cross  the  river,  the  services  of  dragomans 
and  guides,  and  bakshish  to  guides.  The  donkey-boys,  however, 
usually  look  for  a  small  bakshish  from  the  traveller,  who  is  also 
expected  to  bestow  a  gratuity  upon  the  attendants  on  board  the 
steamer.  Each  traveller  is  entitled  to  ship  220  lbs.  of  personal 
luggage;  excess  luggage  is  charged  at  the  rate  of  £  E  1  per  llOlbs. 
A  physician  is  carried  on  each  steamer,  whose  services  and  drugs, 
if  required,  are  paid  for  in  addition  to  the  fare.  In  the  season 
14-day  trips  are  arranged  twice  a  week  at  a  return-fare  of  36  i.,  the 
journey  to  Assiut  and  back  being  made  by  railway.  —  Messrs.  Cook 
have  organized  also  an  Express  Steamer  Service,  running  once 
weekly  in  Nov.  and  Dec.  and  twice  weekly  from  Jan.  to  March, 
between  Cairo  and  Assuan  (19  days  there  and  back).  The  names 
of  the  steamers  are  Cleopatra,  Nefert-Ari,  Amenartas,  and  Hatasoo. 
The  first  three  have  32  first-class  berths,  the  last  40 ;  all  have  also 
extensive  accommodation  for  steerage-passengers.  The  return-fares 
from  Cairo  are  Ibl.  to  Assuan  and  20l.  5s.  to  Luxor,  including  3-4 
days'  hotel  -  accommodation  at  both  places.  Excursions  on  land, 
with  the  services  of  a  dragoman,  are  included  in  these  fares. 

Detailed  information  as  to  prices  and  all  other  points  will  be  found  in 
Coolers  Programme,  published  annually  and  obtainable  gratis  at  any  of  Cook's 
offices:  London,  Ludgate  Circus ;  New  York,  245  Broadway;  Alexandria,  Rue 
dela  Porte  de  Rosette:  Cairo,  Cook's  Pavilion,  next  door  to  Shepheard's  Hotel. 
Messrs.  Cook  &  Son  have  agencies  also  at  all  river-stations  between  Cairo 
and  Assuan,  as  well  as  at  Haifa  and  Khartum.  —  A  deposit  of  half  the 
fare  must  be  paid  on  taking  a  ticket  at  Cook's  offices  in  Europe.  Tickets 
are  not  transferable  except  with  Messrs.  Cook's  consent.  If  a  traveller  be 
prevented  by  exceptional  circumstances  from  joining  the  steamer  for  which 
he  has  booked  he  may  proceed  with  the  following  steamer  if  there  is  a 
berth  free.  After  that,  however,  the  ticket  becomes  invalid,  without  any 
recourse  against  Messrs.  Cook.  Combination  tickets  also  allowing  part  of 
the  journey  to  be  made  by  railway  are  issued  (see  Programme).  —  Cook's 
Dahabiyehs,  see  p.  204. 

The  chief  'tourist-steamers'  of  the  Hamburg  &  Anglo-American 
Nile  Co.  are  the  Oermania  (66  berths),  Victoria  (72  berths),  Puritan 
(72  berths),  and  Mayflower  (54  berths).  These  make  similar  three- 
weeks  voyages  between  Cairo  and  Assuan  from  November  to  April. 
The  general  arrangements  and  conditions  resemble  those  of  Messrs. 
Cook's  steamers.  The  return-fare  per  person  is  45L  in  double  or 
oOl.  in  single  cabins.  —  There  is  also  an  express-service  every  five 
days  between  Luxor  and  Assuan  (fare  upstream  Al.  5s.,  downstream 
Si.  10s. ;  return-fare  from  Luxor,  including  stay  on  board  at  Assuan 
and  excursions,  Ql.  15s.).  Edfu  and  K6m  Ombo  are  visited  on  the 
voyage  upstream,  Edfu  and  Esneh  on  the  voyage  downstream. 

Programmes  may  be  obtained  on  application  at  the  offices  of  the  Ham- 
burg-American Line  in  London  (15  Cockspur  St.,  S.W.),  New  York  (41  Broad- 
way), Cairo  (p.  38),  Luxor,  Assuan,  and  elsewhere.  Combined  railway  and 
steam-boat  tickets  also  are  issued.  —  Dahabiyehs,  see  p.  204. 


Information.  UPPER  EGYPT.  203 

Daily  Itinbrary  of  Cook's  Thrkk -Weeks  Steamers. 

The  programme  of  the  Hamburg  &  Aniilo-American  Nile  Co.  is  very 
similar. 

1st  Day.  Leave  Cairo  on  Taes.  at  10  a.m.  (Hamburg  &  Anglo- 
American  Nile  Co.  on  Frld.  at  4  p.m."),  starting  above  the  Kasr 
en-Nil  Bridge  (p.  79).  From  Bedrashein  an  expedition  is  made  to 
Sakkara  (comp.  pp.  142  et  seq.)-  In  the  evening  the  steamer  pro- 
ceeds to  El-'Ayat  (p.  224:  31  M.  from  Cairo). 

2nd  Day.    Steam  to  (IO8V2  M.")  Maghagha  (p.  225). 

3rd  Day.  Steam  to  Benihasan.  whence  the  Speos  Artemidos  and 
the  tombs  of  Ameni-em-het  and  Khnemhotep  are  visited  (comp. 
pp.  226  et  seq.).  —  Thence  to  (177  M.)  Roda  (p.  231). 

4th  Day.  Steam  to  (247  M.)  Assiut  (comp.  pp.  231,  232).  Visit 
the  town  and  neighbourhood  (rock-tombs  and  barrage)  in  the  after- 
noon (pp.  232-235). 

5th  Day.   Steam  to  (310  M.)  Sohdg  (comp.  pp.  235,  236). 

6th  Day.  Steam  past  Baliann  (Abydos  is  visited  on  the  return 
journey)  to  (3921/2  M.)  Deshna  (comp.  pp.  236,  244). 

7th  Day.  Steam  to  Keneh,  whence  the  Temple  of  Dendera  (p.  244) 
is  visited.  Thence  to  (450  M.)  Luxor,  which  is  reached  towards 
evening  (comp.  pp.  260,  251). 

8th  Day.  Thebes.  Excursion  to  Karnak  (4hrs. ;  p.  262);  in  the 
afternoon,  the  Temple  of  Luxor  (p.  257). 

9th  Day.  Thebes.  Visit  the  Tomhs  of  the  Kings  (p.  284)  and 
the  Temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  (pp.  299  et  seq.).  Luncheon  is  taken 
at  Cook'.s  rest-house,  adjoining  the  temple. 

10th  Day.  Visit  the  Bamesseum  (p.  306),  the  Temple  of  Deir 
el-Medlneh  (p.  316),  and  the  Temple  of  Medlnet  Habu  (p.  322). 
Return  past  the  Colossi  of  Memnon  (p.  330). 

11th  Day.  Steam  to  (41/2  lirs.)  Esneh  (p.  342),  where  a  short 
visit  to  the  temple  is  paid,  then  (4  hrs.  more)  to  (515  M.)  Edfu 
(p.  343),  where  the  temple  is  visited. 

12th  Day.  Steam  past  Gebel  Silsileh  (p.  348)  to  Kom  Omho 
(1  hr.'s  halt;  p.  349)  and  (583  M.)  Assuan  (p.  353).  Visit  to  the 
island  of  Elephantine  (p.  357),  with  its  nilometer  and  museum, 
before  dinner. 

13th  Day.  Assuan,  its  bazaars,  etc.  (p.  353).  The  rock-tombs  on 
the  W.  bank  (p.  368)  are  best  visited  in  the  morning. 

14th  Day.  Expedition  to  the  island  of  Philae  (p.  362)  and  the 
Dam  of  Assuan  (p.  371). 

15th  Day.    The  return-voyage  is  begun.    Steam  to  Luxor. 

16th  Day.  Karnak  (p.  262)  may  be  revisited;  or  the  travellers 
may  inspect  West  Thebes.  As  there  is  no  regular  programme  arrange- 
ments should  be  made  the  day  before  with  the  dragoman  or  manages 
(no  extra  charge).  The  steamer  starts  again  at  11  a.m.  and  reacher 
Nag'  Hamddi  (p.  244)  in  the  evening. 

17th  Day.    Steam  to  Baliana ;  excursion  to  Abydos  (p.  237). 


204  UPPER  EGYPT. 

18th  Day.  Assiut  is  reached  in  the  afternoon.  Train  thence  to 
Cairo  if  desired. 

19th  Day.  Steam  to  Geiel  et-Teir  (p.  226). 

20th  Day.  Arrival  at  Cairo.  Passengers  may  remain  on  board 
until  after  breakfast  on  the  following  morning. 

Holders  of  Cook's  or  the  Hamburg  &  Anglo-American  Nile  Co.'s 
tickets  may  break  their  journey  at  Luxor  or  Assuan  either  on  the 
way  up  or  the  way  down  (after  previous  arrangement  in  Cairo),  and 
proceed  by  the  next  steamer,  if  there  are  vacant  berths.  In  all  these 
deviations  from  the  usual  tours  very  strict  adherence  to  the  terms 
of  the  special  arrangement  is  exacted. 

Dahabiyehs.  Travellers  to  whom  independence  of  action  and 
economy  of  time  are  more  important  than  economy  of  money  may 
charter  for  themselves  steam-dahabiyehs  or  private  steamboats  (6- 
20  berths),  which  are  not  much  slower  than  the  large  tourist- 
steamers.  But  in  a  sailing-dahabiyeh  (4-16  berths),  which  has  to  be 
towed  upstream  when  the  wind  is  unfavourable,  not  less  than  2  or 
3  months  must  be  allowed  for  the  voyage  to  Assuan  and  back.  In 
Cairo  the  best  dahabiyehs,  comfortably  and  even  luxuriously  fitted 
up,  are  those  belonging  to  Messrs.  Cook  ^'  Son  (9  steam-dahabiyehs, 
13  sailing  dahabiyehs)  and  the  Hamburg  ^Anglo-American,  Nile  Co. 
(2  steam-dahabiyehs ,  several  sailing-dahabiyehs).  Dahabiyehs  are 
not  usually  let  for  less  than  a  month.  The  inclusive  charge  for  a 
steam -dahabiyeh  is  about  400-750^.  per  month  according  to  the 
number  of  passengers.  These  prices  include  not  only  the  hire  of  the 
dahabiyeh  and  its  full  equipment  and  the  wages  of  the  raiyis  or 
captain  and  the  crew,  but  also  the  services  of  a  dragoman  and  atten- 
dants, as  well  as  provisions  (except  liquors),  donkeys,  saddles,  and 
all  the  incidental  expenses  of  excursions  (excluding  bakshish).  The 
charge  for  a  sailing-dahabiyeh,  excluding  provisions  and  all  inciden- 
tal expenses,  is  36-50i.  per  month.  In  the  case  of  head- winds 
small  steam-tugs  may  be  hired  for  6-Sl,  per  day.  Further  details 
will  be  found  in  the  programmes  issued  bv  the  companies. 

The  traveller  may  also  hire  a  dahabiyeh  directly,  i.e.  indepen- 
dently of  the  agents ,  and  take  the  commissariat  into  his  own 
hands;  but  this  is  not  recommended  to  inexperienced  travellers.  A 
dragoman  (p.  xxv)  is  essential.  A  contract  with  him  must  be  drawn 
up  stipu  lating  for  the  price  and  duration  of  the  voyage,  the  style  of 
living,  the  maintenance  of  the  dahabiyeh  in  a  good  and  efficient 
condition,  and  the  providing  of  a  small  boat  to  be  at  all  times  at 
the  disposal  of  the  traveller.  A  clause  should  be  inserted  relieving 
the  travellers  from  all  responsibility  for  any  damage  to  the  daha- 
biyeh or  its  contents,  not  due  to  their  fault;  and  finally  both  parties 
should  expressly  agree  to  submit  all  disputes  as  to  the  carrying  out 
of  the  contract  to  the  arbitration  of  the  consul  in  whose  presence 
it  has  been  signed. 


205 


15.  From  Cairo  to  Laxor  by  Railway. 

Comp.  Maps,  j^p.  231,  214. 

4t6V.:M.  Railway  in  l3'/4-14  hrs.  (fares  £  E  2.G,  £  E  1.3,  bi^j-i  pias.); 
two  thron;ih-trains  daily.  In  April-Nov.  the  night-trains  on  Men.,  Wed., 
it:  Sat.  (returning  from  Luxor  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  &  Sun.)  are  provided  with 
restaurant  and  sleeping  cars.  A  'train  de  luxe'  rnns  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  &  Sat. 
in  Dec,  daily  in  Jan.,  Feb.,  and  March  (1st  cl.  only;  supplementary  fare 
£E  1;  '2nd  el.  for  passengers''  servants),  with  restaurant  and  sleeping 
cars.  —  Although  there  are  buffets  at  the  chief  stations,  travellers  are 
recommended  to  provide  themselves  with  a  supply  of  meat,  bread,  and 
wine;  no  stoppage  is  made  for  dinner.  Melons,  oranges,  cheese,  sugar-cane, 
eggs,  bread,  and  water  (better  avoided)  are  offered  for  sale  at  all  the  stations. 

The  Pyramids  are  seen  on  the  right,  but  afterwards,  beyond  Minyeh, 
the  best  views  are  on  the  left  (Nile  Valley  and  Benihasan). 

From  Cairo  to  C^Oi/o  M.)  Bedrashein,  see  p.  143. 

Farther  on  we  have  a  view,  to  the  right,  of  the  Pyramids  of 
Dahshur,  including  the  large  Stone  Pyramid,  the  Blunted  Pyramid, 
and  the  small  Brick  Pyramids  (pp.  166,  167).  To  the  left  are  the 
Nile  and  an  Arab  village  shaded  hy  palm-trees.  —  28  M.  Mazghuna; 
ae'/o  M.  El-'Aydt  (p.  2'243.  —  4OV2  M-  FA-Matdnyeh.  To  the  W.,  on 
the  edge  of  the  desert,  are  the  pyramids  of  Lisht ;  that  to  the  N.  is 
the  tomb  of  Amenemhet  I.  (12th  Dyn.),  that  to  the  S.  the  tomb  of 
his  successor  Sesostris  I.  Excavations  are  being  carried  on  here  by 
the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  New  York.  —  45'/2  M.  Kafr  Ahmar, 

61 72  M-  Rikka  (El-Riqqa,  Rekkah)  is  the  starting-point  for  the 
excursion  to  the  finely  shaped  Pyramid  of  Meidum. 

A  'Visit  to  JIeiuOm  may  be  accomplished  in  about  5  hrs.  on  donkey- 
back.  Crossing  the  railway,  we  proceed  in  about  l'/4  hr.  to  the  pyramid, 
which  rises  on  the  soil  of  the  desert  close  to  the  cultivated  country  and 
IV2  M.  to  the  K.W.  of  the  village  of  MeidAin. 

The  Pyramid  of  Ueidiim,  in  all  probability  the  unfinished  and  never 
used  tomb  of  Snofru,  the  predecessor  of  Kheops,  is  so  different  from  all 
the  other  structures  of  the  kind  that  it  is  called  by  the  Arabs  El-Haram 
tl-Kadddb,  or  the  False  Pyramid.  It  consists  of  three  (originally  seven) 
square  receding  stories,  which  rise  to  a  height  of  214  ft.  8  in.  in  smooth 
and  steei)  stages  at  an  angle  of  74'  lO".  The  first  section  is  81  ft.  6  in.,  the 
second  98  ft.  11  in.,  while  the  third,  now  almost  entirely  destroyed,  is 
84  ft.  3  in.  in  height.  The  outer  walls  consist  of  admirably  jointed  and 
polished  blocks  of  limestone.  The  examinations  by  Maspero  and  Petrie 
prove  that  the  Pyramid  of  Meidvlm  was  pillaged  as  early  as  in  the  time  of 
the  20th  Dynasty.  On  its  E.  side  is  the  small  Mortuary  Temple  of  Snofru, 
now  again  covered  up.  This  temple,  built  of  blocks  of  limestone,  consists 
of  two  bare  chambers  leading  to  an  open  court  immediately  adjoining 
the  pyramid.  The  mu.stabas,  or  tombs  of  courtiers  and  officials  of  Snofru, 
to  the  N.  and  E.  of  the  pyramid,  are  now  likewise  covered  with  sand. 

On  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  Rikka  and  about  1 1/2  M.  from 
the  river,  lies  the  hamlet  of  Atfih  (4300  inhab.),  on  a  canal,  with 
some  mounds  of  earth  and  debris  representing  the  ancient  Aphrodi- 
topolis,  named  after  Hathor-Aphrodite,  who  was  worshipped  here. 

The  Egyptian  name  of  the  town  was  Tep-yeh  or  Per-Hathor  nebt  Tep-yeh, 
i.e.  'House  of  Hathor,  mistress  of  Tep-yeh\  whence  the  shortened  Coptic 
Petpeh  and  Arabic  Atfih.  Strabo  states  that  a  white  cow,  sacred  to  Hathor, 
was  worshipped  here. 

In  the  Christian  period  (ca.  310  A.D.)  Aphroditopolis  gained  some  eel- 


206    Route  15.  BENISUEIF.  From  Cairo 

ebrity  from  Si.  Anthoni/,  who  fixed  his  hermitage  in  the  mountains  to  the 
E.  of  the  town,  beside  a  well  and  a  group  of  palms.  So  many  pilgrims 
of  every  class,  age,  and  sex  sought  out  the  holy  man,  that  a  regular  post- 
ing route,  with  relays  of  camels,  was  laid  out  across  the  desert.  St.  An- 
thony, however,  fled  from  his  admirers  and  buried  himself  deeper  in  the 
mountains.  But  while  he  thus  shook  off  his  earthly  visitants,  he  could 
not  so  easily  escape  those  extraordinary  tempters  from  spirit-land,  at  which 
Callot  has  taught  us  to  smile,  though  to  St.  Anthony  himself,  as  well  as 
iO  St.  Hilarion  and  other  anchorites,  the  contest  was  one  of  bitter  earnest. 

57  M.  El-Wasta  (p.  225;  short  halt").  Passengers  hound  for 
the  Faiydm  change  carriages  here  (p.  1913.  El-Wasta,  a  district- 
capital  with  2644inhah.,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a  grove  of  palms 
and  is  surrounded  with  fields  of  clover.  To  the  right  is  the  great 
harrage  of  Kosheisheh.  —  63  M.  Beni  Hodeir.  —  Near  (67  M.)  Ashment 
(Achemant),  to  the  right,  appears  the  small  hlack  pyramid  of  Illahun 
(p.  195).    The  Arabian  hills  rise  on  the  left. 

About  3  hrs.  to  the  N.W.  of  Ashment  is  the  village  of  Abusir  el-Kelek, 
the  'Northern  Abydos'  of  the  Egyptians,  containing  extensive  ancient 
cemeteries.    In  the  vicinity  is  the  tomb  of  Merwan  II.  (p.  cxiv). 

72V2  M.  Bush  {Bouche;  p.  225),  inhabited  by  Gopts. 

77  M.  Benisueif  or  Beni  Suef  (Continental  Hotel,  kept  by  a 
Greek,  R.  10  pias.,  very  fair,  tolerable  restaurant  opposite)  is  a 
town  of  23,357  iuhab.,  pleasantly  situated  between  the  railway 
and  the  river.  It  contains  a  post  and  telegraph  office  and  is  the 
capital  of  a  province,  which  contains  171  villages  and  372,412  in- 
habitants. To  the  left  of  the  rail,  station  is  the  Mudiriyeh.  The 
linen-manufacture  for  which  this  place  was  celebrated  in  the  middle 
ages  has  greatly  declined,  but  several  factories,  numerous  sugar- 
plantations,  and  a  small  bazaar  still  lend  the  town  a  certain  im- 
portance.   To  the  left  of  the  railway  is  a  fine  grove  of  palms. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf,  10  M.  to  the  W.  of  Benisueif, 
lies  the  village  of  Ahndsia  el-JIJedineh  (vulgo ,  Ahndsia  Umm  el-Kirndn, 
'rubbish-heaps  of  Ahnasia'),  beside  the  mounds  of  debris,  covering  an 
area  of  1/2  sq.  M.,  which  mark  the  site  of  the  ancient  Heracleopolis. 
The  Egyptian  name  of  the  town  was  ffenm-nesui,  from  which  are  derived 
the  Coptic  ffries,  and  the  Arabic  Ahnas  and  Ahnasia.  It  was  the  capital 
of  a  nome  (the  GrcEco-Roman  Heracleopolites)  and  the  chief  seat  of  the 
worship  of  the  ram-headed  god  Herishef,  identified  by  the  Greeks  with 
Heracles  (whence  the  name  of  the  town).  The  ichneumon  also  was  re- 
vered here.  Among  the  chief  shrines  were  a  temple  erected  under  the  Middle 
Empire  and  a  new  building  by  Ramses  II.,  but  all  have  practically  van- 
ished ;  four  columns  of  a  late  period,  probably  dating  from  a  Byzantine 
church,  are  all  that  projects  above  the  rubbish-heaps.  The  ancient  necro- 
polis lies  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf    near  Sedment  el-Gebel. 

A  road  beginning  at  the  village  of  Bidd  (Bidd  en-Nasdra),  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  Benisueif,  leids  through  the  desert  (36  hrs. 
by  camel)  to  the  very  ancient  Convents  of  SS.  Anthoni/  and  Paul  (p.  liv), 
situated  about  25  M.  from  the  Red  Sea. 

9OV2  M.  Blbeh  (Biha),  a  district-capital  (10,156  inhab.)  with 
large  sugar-factories  (comp.  p.  225),  is  the  junction  of  a  secondary 
line  running  parallel  with  the  main  line  on  the  W.  bank  as  far  as 
Maghagha.  At  Bibeh  is  a  Coptic  convent  with  a  tall  bell-tower. 
Our  railway  is  skirted  on  the  right  by  the  Ibrdhtmlyeh  Canal. 


to  Luxor.  BEHNESA.  75.  Route.   207 

At  Desh&sheh  (Dechachah),  beyond  the  Balir  Yusuf,  on  the  edge  of 
the  desert,  14  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Bibeh  (about  6  hrs.'  ride  on  donkey- 
back),  arc  the  tombs  of  Inti  and  Shetu  (5lh  Dyn. ;  examined  by  Flinders 
Petrie  in  1897),  containing:  interesting  sculptures  of  battle-scenes,  a  siege, 
etc.  As  the  tombs  are  kept  locked  visitors  should  not  forget  to  obtain 
the  keys  beforehand  from  the  inspector  of  the  Service  des  Antiquitcs  at 
^ledinet  el-Faiyum  (p.  191),  whence  also  Dcshasheh  may  be  conveniently 
reached  via  Kalanisha  (see  p.  193). 

99  M.  Feshn  (Fashn,  Fachen),  a  district-capital  with  11,364 
inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  a  secondary  line  to  Maghagha  (see  helow). 

To  the  S.E.,  a  little  above  Feshn,  at  the  village  of  El-Hibeh,  are  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  town.  The  town-walls,  several  yards  in  thickness  and 
still  in  eood  preservation,  were  built  under  the  21st  Dyn.,  as  is  proved  by 
numerous  bricks  stamped  with  the  names  of  Princess  Est-em-kheh  and  her 
husband  ifen-kheper-ri,  or  of  their  son  Pinotem  (II.).  high-priest  of  Amon. 
—  AVithin  the  walls,  picturesquely  situated  among  palmg,  arc  the  ruins  of 
a  temple,  built  by  Shoshenk  I.  and  Osorkon  1.  (2'2nd  Dyn.). 

104  M.  Fant.  —  112  M.  Magh&gha  (p.  225),  a  district-capital 
with  8596  inhab.  and  a  sugar-factory,  is  the  junction  for  branch- 
railways  to  Feshn  (N. ;  see  above)  and  to  Matai  (S.;  see  below). 

Thrice  a  month  a  camel-post  leaves  Maghagha  for  (3-4  days)  the  oasis 
of  Bahriyeh  (p.  379),  which  is  connected  with  Behnesa  by  another  desert- 
route  (comp.  below).  —  Opposite  Maghagha,  about  12-20  M.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Nile,  near  the  wide  Wddi  eth-Slieikh,  are  some  prehistoric  Flint  Factories, 
discovered  by  Lt.  H.  W.  Seton-Karr  in  1896. 

To  the  E.  rises  the  Oehel  SheUch  Embarak{-p.  225).  —  At  Sharuna 
[Charounah;  E.  bank)  are  tombs  of  the  end  of  the  0th  Dynasty. 
Near  Kom  el-Ahmar,  to  the  S.,  are  a  ruined  temple  of  Ptolemy  I,, 
and  rock-tombs  of  the  Saite  period,  belonging  to  the  town  of  Hel- 
7iesut,  in  the  Cynopolitan  nome.    The  train  approaches  the  river. 

122  M.  Beni  Mazar  is  a  district-capital  with  8409  inhab.  (p.  226). 
About  I'/o  M.  to  the  S.W.  lies  the  hamlet  of  El-Keis,  Egypt.  Kais, 
whose  local  deity  was  Anubis,  and  which  probably  oc(;upie3  the 
site  of  Cynopolis,  capital  of  the  province  under  the  Greeks. 

About  G'/iM.  to  the  W.  of  r.eni  Mazar,  on  the  Bafir  YHiuf  (must  con- 
veniently reached  by  the  branch-line  to  Sand  a/a  in  abjut  1  hr.),  lies  the 
town  of  Behnesa  (Bahnasa),  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Oxyrhynchos  (Egypt. 
Permezet.  Coptic  Pemje,  Greek  IHhtitt)),  once  the  c:ipital  of  a  nome  but  now 
represented  only  by  a  few  desolate  heaps  of  di'bris.  The  fish  Oxyrhyn- 
ehuf,  a  species  of  mormyrus  (Arab.  Mizdeh),  was  worshippe  1  here,  in  the 
neighbouring  town  of  Cynopolis  the  dog  was  held  in  equal  honour,  and 
Plutarch  relates  how  a  'very  pretty  quarrel',  the  settlement  of  which 
required  the  intervention  of  the  liomans,  arose  between  the  two  towns, 
be'^ause  the  citizens  of  each  had  killed  and  dined  on  the  sacred  animals 
of  the  other.  On  the  introdaction  of  Christianity  Oxyrhynchos  became 
a  veritable  town  of  monks.  In  (he  town  itself  were  12  churches  and  all 
round  it  convent  jostled  convent.  In  the  5th  cent,  the  diocese  of  Oxyrhyn- 
chos is  said  to  have  contained  10,000  monks  and  12,000  nuns.  In  the 
Mameluke  period  it  was  still  of  some  importance,  but  it  has  since  steadily 
declined.  Excavations  begun  here  in  1397  by  Grenfell  and  Hunt  have 
yielded  large  quantities  of  Greek,  Coptic,  and  Arabic  papyri.  —  From 
Behnesa  a  desert-route  leads  in  4  days  to   the  oasis  of  Bahrdjeh  (p.  379). 

Reyond  (129  M.)Mat§.i,  with  a  large  sugar-factory,  a  handsome 
bridge  crosses  a  canal.  Mitai  is  the  junction  of  the  secondary  line 
to  Maghajha  (see  above)  and  Miiiyeh  (p.  20'3).  —  134  M.  Koloma 


208    Route  16.  MINYEH.  From  Cairo 

(Qolosna;  p.  226)  is  situated  between  the  Nile  and  the  Ihrahimiyeh 
Canal;  opposite,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  is  the  village  of  Es- 
Sarinyeh  (p.  226).  Our  line  crosses  the  Abu  Bakara  Canal,  which 
diverges  from  the  Nile.  —  138  M.  SamS.11it  is  a  district-capital 
(8178  inhab.)  on  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal,  with  sugar- factories, 
palms,  and  fields  of  clover.  On  the  E.  bank  rises  the  massive 
Oebel  et- Teir  (p.  226),  forming  a  picturesque  background  for  the 
numerous  sails  on  the  Nile.  Extensive  cotton-fields  are  passed, 
then  sugar-plantations,  and  rich  vegetation. 

144  M.  Etsa.  On  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile  lies  Tehna  el-Gebel,  a 
village  with  2108  inhabitants. 

To  the  S.  of  the  village  is  the  Kom,  or  mound,  virith  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Tenii,  also  known  as  Acoris,  belonging  to  the  nome  of 
Hermopolis.  To  the  S.  of  this  is  a  ridge  65-SO  ft.  in  height,  with  some 
early- Egyptian  Rock  Tombs  which  were  again  used  in  the  Greek  period. 
One  Sepulchral  Chapel,  containing  some  representations  of  a  late  date,  is 
interesting.  A  Greek  or  Roman  grandee  is  here  shown  sacrificing  to  a 
number  of  Egyptian  deities.  The  only  inscriptions  extant  are  on  the  inner 
side  of  the  door.  Higher  up  on  the  rock-walls  are  two  horses  in  the  Roman 
style,  held  by  men.  The  rock  tombs  farther  to  the  S.  belong  to  the  Ancient 
Empire.  A  colossal  image  carved  out  of  the  rock  represents  Ramses  III. 
sacrificing  to  the  gods  Sobek  and  Amon.  —  In  the  valley  between  the 
rocky  ridge  just  mentioned  and  the  Arabian  Mountains,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Mohammedan   cemetery,   lie   a  Graeco-Roman   and  a  Christian  necropolis. 

153  M.  Minyeh  (^Minia,  Minieh;  Buffet  and  clean  waiting-rooms 
at  the  station;  Hotel  de  Minieh,  pens.  45  pias.,  very  fair;  Palace 
Hotel,  near  the  Nile  gardens,  pens.  40  pias. ;  Hot.  du  Nil,  Or. -Hot. 
Pacha  Kamel,  R.  10  pias.),  a  flourishing  town  with  27,221  inhab., 
lies  between  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal  and  the  Nile,  which  is  here  over 
V2  M.  broad.  The  Shari'  el-Mahatta  leads  from  the  station  to  the 
town.  A  handsome  bridge,  with  locks,  spans  the  canal.  Market-day 
(Mon.)  in  Minyeh  presents  a  very  gay  and  characteristic  picture 
of  oriental  life.  The  mudiriyeh  of  Minyeh  (750  sq.  M.)  includes 
269  villages  and  659,967  inhabitants.  Minyeh  is  connected  by 
branch-lines  with  Matai  (p.  207)  and  Roda  (p.  209).  For  the  ex- 
cursion to  Benihasan,  see  p.  209. 

Opposite  Minyeh,  on  the  E.  bank,  lies  Koin  el-Kef ara,  with 
tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire.  Farther  to  the  S.,  4^2  M-  above 
Minyeh,  is  situated  Zdwiyet  el-Meilln  (Zdwiyet  el-Amwdt).  To  the  S. 
of  the  village  lies  the  cemetery  of  the  citizens  of  Minyeh,  with  its 
numerous  domed  tombs  and  chapels.  Faithful  to  the  custom  of 
their  ancestors  under  the  Pharaohs,  the  inhabitants  still  ferry  their 
dead  across  the  river  and  bury  them  near  the  ancient  necropolis. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  towards  the  S.  brings  us  to  the  large 
mound  of  rubbish  known  as  Kom  el-Ahmar  ('the  red  mound'), 
which  runs  parallel  with  the  Nile.  Climbing  over  this,  we  reach 
the  ancient  Bock  Tombs  of  the  princes  and  grandees  of  Hebenu, 
which  date  mainly  from  the  end  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  They  are 
unfortunately  in  bad  preservation,  and  some  of  them  have  been 


to  Luxor.  RODA.  15.  Route.   209 

destroyed  by  violence.  The  most  interesting  are  those  of  Khunes 
and  of  Nefer-sekheru,  superintendent  of  the  storehouses  of  Dpper 
and  Lower  Egypt,  under  the  New  Empire. 

At  Nueirat  (El-Neweirat),  a  village  farther  to  the  S.,  are  some 
small  rock-tombs  belonging  to  the  beginning  of  the  Ancient  Empire. 

Excursion  to  Bbnihasan,  15  M.  (.see  p.  226).  The  traveller  hires  an 
a.'^s  at  Minyeh  (ca.  20  pias.)  and,  making  an  early  start  (not  fDrgetting 
provisions  and  water),  ferries  to  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile  (fare,  incl.  ass, 
ca.  20  pias.),  which  he  ascends  via  Zdwiyet  el-ileitin  (p.  2()8)  and  K6m  el- 
Ahmar  (p.  2u8).  Instead  of  returninq;  the  same  way  he  should  continue  to 
follow  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile  to  the  (10i/'.>  M.)  Ruins  of  Antitioupolis 
(see  below),  visit  the  temple  of  Ramses  there,  and  cross  the  river  thence  to 
RO(la  (sec  below),  whence  the  train  may  be  taken  to  Minyeh.  This  is  a 
long  but  interesting  day's  journey. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Nile  rises  a  lofty  grove  of  palms.  The  vegeta- 
tion is  luxuriant.  To  the  E.  appear  the  hills  of  Zawiyet  el-Meitin 
and  K6m  el-Ahmar  (p.  208),  with  a  sheikh's  tomb  at  the  farther 
end.  Low  rugged  hills  are  seen  on  the  left  and  a  plain  on  the 
right.  —  160  M.  Mansafis.  —  From  (16G  M.)  Abu  Kerkas  (Ahu 
Quryas),  a  district-capital  (6855  inhab.)  with  a  sugar-factory,  we 
obtain  a  view  of  Benihasan  (p.  2261.  —  170  M.  Etlidem. 

177  M.  Boda  is  a  considerable  place  (8263  inhab.),  with  post 
and  telegraph  offices  and  a  sugar-factory.  The  nearest  night-quar- 
ters, however,  are  at  Mellawi  (p.  210)  or  Minyeh  (p.  208;  branch- 
railway).  About  4  M.  inland,  between  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal  and  the 
Bahr  Yusuf  and  on  a  narrow-gauge  line  from  Roda  (which  may  bo 
used  in  one  direction  at  least),  is  the  village  of  El-Ashmuneln 
(accessible  also  from  Mellawi).  Close  to  the  station  of  the  light 
railway  lie  the  ruins  of  the  once  famous  city  of  Khmunu  (Coptic 
Shmun],  the  HermopoUs  of  the  Greeks,  which  from  a  very  remote 
period  was  the  chief  seat  of  the  worship  of  Thout,  the  god  of  writing 
and  science.  Numerous  papyri  of  the  Roman  and  Byzantine  periods 
have  been  discovered  here.  This  town  was  also  the  capital  of  the 
hare-nome,  in  Upper  Egypt,  whose  princes  under  the  Middle 
Empire  were  buried  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile  near  Deir  el-Bersheh 
(see  p.  210). 

Several  granite  columns,  probably  belonging  to  the  colonnade  of  the 
Greek  Agora,  are  still  standing.  To  theN.W.,  beyond  the  grove  of  palms, 
are  the  considerable  relics  of  the  pylon  and  the  court  of  a  sanctuary  built 
by  Amenephtlies.  Still  f.irther  to  tlie  N.  are  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Philippus 
Arrhidceus.  —  At  Tuiieh  el-Gebel,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf, 
are  the  extensive  necropolis  of  the  ancient  city  and  two  rock-inscriptions 
(much  dilapidated)  of  Ameaophis  IV.  (comp.  p.  211). 

Opposite  Koda,  on  the  E.  bank,  amid  palms,  lies  the  village  of 
Sheikh' Abddeh,  to  the  E.  of  which  are  the  ruins  of  Antinoupolis  or 
Antino'e,  the  town  erected  by  Hadrian  in  130  A.D.  in  honour  of  his 
favourite  Antinous.  The  handsome  youth  is  said  to  have  drowned 
himself  here,  to  fulfil  the  oracle  which  predicted  a  heavy  loss  to  the 
emperor  and  so  to  prevent  a  more  serious  disaster.  The  remains  of 
a  Temple  of  Ramsei  II.,  the  relic  of  an  earlier  foundation  on  this 
site,   may  be  traced  to  the  N.   of  Sheikh 'Abadeh;   of  this  only  the 


210    Route  15.  MELLAWI.  From  Cairo 

columns  of  the  forecourt  and  the  main  hall  project  from  the  rubhish- 
lieaps.  The  vestiges  of  public  buildings  are  now  exceedingly  scanty, 
though  the  French  Expedition  saw  a  triumphal  arch,  a  theatre,  and 
streets  flanked  with  columns.  Granite  columns  and  capitals  lie 
scattered  about.  Near  the  ruins  of  a  large  building  on  the  road 
running  to  the  E.  from  the  mosque  lies  a  broken  marble  basin, 
■which  must  have  had  a  diameter  of  about  10  ft.  The  Roman  and 
Christian  cemeteries  have  recently  been  much  injured. 

To  the  S.  of  Sheikh  'Abadeh  we  reach  Deir  Abu  Hennes  (Con- 
vent of  St.  John),  called  also  simply  Ed-Deir.,  a  village  on  the  E. 
bank  inhabited  by  about  2000  Copts.  Near  it  is  a  ruined  town  of 
the  Christian  epoch,  known  as  El-Medineh.  On  the  N.  side  of  a 
ravine  in  the  hill  behind  the  village  are  many  ancient  cave-like 
quarries,  which  were  litted  up  at  an  early  date  as  Christian  chapels 
or  anchorites'  dwellings.  The  largest  Chapel,  in  which  divine  service 
is  held,  may  be  reached  from  the  village  in  1  hr.;  it  is  said  to  date 
from  the  time  of  the  Empress  Helena  and  contains  paintings  of  saints 
and  scenes  from  the  New  Testament,  but  those  in  the  neighbouring 
Chapel  (Raising  of  Lazarus,  Marriage  at  Cana,  etc.)  are  better.  — 
Deir  el-Bersheh  (^see  below)  is  within  ^/2^t.  of  Deir  Abu  Hennes. 

Immediately  beyond  Roda  the  mountains  on  the  E.  bank  recede 
farther  from  the  river.  During  the  sugar-cane  harvest,  in  the  begin- 
ning of  February,  this  region  presents  a  busy  scene. 

181 1/2  M.  Mellawi  (^Mallawi;  modest  Inn  at  the  station,  R. 
8  pias.),  a  district-capital  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal, 
with  20,260  inhab.,  has  a  frequented  market  on  Sundays.-  In  the 
vicinity  are  many  palms.  To  the  left  we  have  a  view  of  the  E,  range 
of  hills,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of  El-Bersheh  (see  below)  and 
Sheikh  Sa'id  (p.  231).  A  shady  route,  skirting  a  canal,  leads  hence 
in  about  i^/ohx.  to  Ashmunein  and  the  ruins  of  Hermopolis  (p. 209). 

Opposite  Mellawi,  on  the  E.  bank,  a  little  way  from  the  river, 
lies  the  Coptic  village  of  Deir  el-Bersbeh.  Beside  a  Coptic  cemetery 
to  the  E.  begins  a  desert-ravine,  running  N.W.  and  S.E.,  and  named 
Wddi  en-Nakhleh  or  Wadi  el-Bersheh^  in  the  steep  sides  of  which  are 
numerous  quarries  and  ancient  tombs.  The  valley  is  chiefly  noted 
for  the  rock-tombs  in  its  N.  slope,  constructed  under  the  Middle 
Empire  by  the  princes  of  the  'hare-nome'  (p.  209),  which  included 
this  region.    The  only  one  that  need  be  visited  is  — 

Tomb  2,  belonging  to  Thuti-hotep,  son  of  Kai,  prince  of  the 
nome  in  the  reigns  of  Amenemhet  II.  and  Sesostris  II.  and  III, 
This  tomb  is  constructed  in  the  same  way  as  the  tombs  at  Benihasan. 
The  Vestibule,  originally  supported  by  two  palm-columns,  has  fallen 
in.  A  door  leads  hence  to  the  Inner  Chamber,  the  walls  of  which 
were  embellished  with  reliefs,  now  partly  destroyed.  On  the  Left 
Wall  is  a  scene  representing  the  transportation  of  a  colossal  statue 
of  the  deceased  from  the  quarries  of  Het-nub  (p.  218)  to  a  temple. 
The  inscription  informs  us  that  the  statue  was  of  alabaster  and 


to  Luxor.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  15.  Route,.    211 

13  ells  (21  ft.)  in  height.  It  is  securely  fastened  with  ropes  upon 
a  wooden  sledge,  which  is  drawn  by  four  rows  of  workmen  with 
43  men  in  each.  A  priest  precedes  the  statue  scattering  incense.  On 
the  prow  of  the  sledge  stands  a  man  pouring  water  on  the  ground  to 
prevent  the  heavily  loaded  sledge  from  taking  fire  by  friction;  and 
on  the  lap  of  the  figure  is  another  man  clapping  his  hands,  probably 
the  leader  and  fugleman  of  the  song  of  the  workmen,  whose  task  was 
facilitated  by  rhythmical  movement.  Below  are  other  workmen 
carrying  water  and  a  beam;  and  behind  the  statue  are  foremen  and 
other  officials.  At  the  top  are  companies  of  people  with  branches  in 
their  hands,  hastening  to  meet  the  procession.  To  the  extreme  left 
stands  Thuti-hotep,  followed  hy  his  body-guard,  observing  the 
spectacle. 

Below  the  rock-tombs  are  Tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  Shaft 
Tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire,  and  numerous  tombs  of  the  Ptolemaic 
period.  Opposite,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  valley,  is  a  large  Quarry, 
which,  according  to  a  now  defaced  inscription,  yielded  stone  in  the 
first  year  of  Amenophis  III.  for  the  temple  at  Hermopolis.  Farther 
up  the  valley  are  quarries  of  the  time  of  Nektanebos. 

188  M.  Deir  Maiods  (Deir-Moes).  The  village  is  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Ibriihimiyeh  Canal;  the  hamlet  beside  the  station  is  called 
Hasabiyeh,  On  the  E.  bank  are  the  ruins  of  Tell  el-'Amama  which 
are  visited  hence. 


Tell  el-'Amama. 

From  Deir  Mawas  we  may  walk  or  ride  via  the  villa'^e  of  Beni  'Amrdn 
to  the  (20  min.)  bank  of  the  Nile,  across  which  we  ferry  (5  pias.)  to  £t-TiU, 
where  the  keeper  of  the  N.  tombs  lives,  or  to  Ilagg-Kandil  (see  below), 
where  the  keeper  of  the  S.  tombs  lives.    Donkey,  10-15  piastres. 

Tell  el-'Amarna  [or  El-  Amama^,  a  name  derived  from  the 
Beni  'Amran  or  El-'Amama  Beduins,  is  the  name  now  given  to  the 
extensive  ruins  and  rock-tombs  which  lie  near  the  villages  of  Hagg- 
KandU  on  the  S.  and  Et-Tdl  on  the  N.,  and  form  the  last  relics  of 
the  ancient  royal  ciiyEkhet-Aton,  'the  horizon  of  the  sun'.  Extensive 
excavations  are  being  carried  on  here  by  the  German  Orient  Society, 
(see  p.  212)  whose  office  is  situated  near  Hagg-Kandil. 

When  Amenophis  IV.  (p.  cii)  became  converted  to  the  ex- 
clusive worship  of  the  sun  and  abjured  the  ancient  gods,  he  quitted 
Thebes,  the  capital  until  that  time,  and  withdrew  with  his  court  to 
a  new  sacred  spot.  This  was  situated  in  the  Hermopolitan  nome  in 
Upper  Egypt,  on  both  banks  of  the  Nile,  and  its  boundaries  may  be 
traced  to  this  day  by  14  inscriptions  chiselled  on  the  rocks  near 
El-Hawata  {jp.  231),  at  the  N.  and  S.  groups  of  tombs,  at  Sheikh 
Sa'fd  (p.  231 ;  all  on  the  right  bank),  and  near  Tuneh  el-Oebel  (p.  209), 
Derweh,  and  Gildeh  (left  bank").  The  new  royal  residence-town  was 
founded  on  the  E.  bank  and  speedily  prospered.  Temples  and  palaces 


212   Route  15.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  From  Cairo 

sprang  up,  beside  the  imposing  royal  abode  arose  the  dwellings  of 
the  nobles,  and  lordly  tombs  were  prepared  for  the  king  and  his 
favourites  in  the  hills  to  the  east.  But  after  the  death  of  Amenophis 
the  ancient  religion  once  more  obtained  the  upper  hand,  the  court 
returned  to  Thebes,  and  the  new  town  rapidly  decayed.  Its  life 
had  not  lasted  for  more  than  50  years,  and  the  site  upon  which  it 
stood  was  never  again  occupied.  Owing  to  this  circumstance  the 
ancient  streets  and  ground -plans  have  remained  to  this  day  and 
may  be  traced  with  little  trouble  (comp.  below).  The  religious  re- 
volution under  Amenophis  IV.  was  accompanied  by  a  revolution  in 
art.  The  artists  who  worked  in  his  reign,  probably  feeling  them- 
selves more  independent  of  ancient  traditions,  attempted  to  lend 
their  creations  a  more  natural  expression.  In  many  cases,  however, 
they  fell  into  exaggeration,  as,  for  example,  in  the  representations 
of  the  lean  form  of  the  king.  The  tombs  of  El-'Amarna  contain  the 
best  examples  of  this  realistic  tendency  and  are,  therefore,  of  great 
importance  in  the  history  of  art. 

About  1/2  hr.  to  the  N,  of  Et-Till  are  the  ruins  of  the  city  and 
ot  the  Palace  of  Amenophis  IV.  Its  fine  stucco  pavements,  discov- 
ered by  Flinders  Petrie  in  1891-92,  were  ruthlessly  destroyed  in 
1912  (fragments  in  the  museum  at  Cairo,  see  p.  86).  —  To  the  E. 
lay  the  Archives,  in  which  in  1888  the  celebrated  clay  tablets  of 
Tell  el-'Amarna  with  cuneiform  inscriptions  were  found  (now  in 
the  British  Museum  and  the  museums  of  Berlin  and  Cairo;  comp. 
p.  89);  these  are  letters  written  to  kings  Amenophis  III.  and  IV. 
by  Babylonian  and  other  kings  of  W.  Asia  and  by  Syrian  and  Phoe- 
nician vassals,  and  are  of  the  greatest  historical  value.  —  The  por- 
tion of  the  city  that  has,  so  far,  been  excavated  by  the  German  Orient 
Society  lies  l^/o  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  office  (p.  211),  where  permission 
to  visit  the  excavations  is  obtained.  If  time  permit,  the  traveller 
should  see  the  well-preserved  i7o«se  of  the  High  Priest  Pe-tvoh, 
affording  as  it  does  a  typical  example  of  the  ground-plan  of  an 
upper-class  Egyptian  dwelling-house  (comp.  pp.  clxi,  clxii).  He 
may  visit  also  the  House  of  a  Farm-Bailiff,  where  the  laying-out  of 
the  garden  is  still  recognizable,  the  House  of  the  Sculptor  Thutmose, 
with  workmen's  dwellings,  and  lastly  a  large  granary.  Some  of  the 
houses  have  well-preserved  bathrooms  and  lavatories. 

From  the  palace  we  proceed  to  the  N.E.,  passing  the  site  of  the 
Great  Temple,  and  in  8/4  hr.  we  reach  the  North  Group  of  Tombs. 

The  rock-tombs  of  Tell  el-''Ainarna  are  essentially  the  same  in  point 
of  structure  as  the  tombs  of  the  18th  Dyn.  at  Thebes  (p.  309).  Each  is  im- 
mediately preceded  by  a  Forecourt,  which  w;is  generally  surrounded  by  a 
brick  wall.  Thence  a  wide  door  admits  to  the  Main  Chaniber,  the  roof  of 
which  is  in  many  cases  supported  by  columns.  The  Chamber  containing 
the  statue  of  the  deceased  is  next  reached,  either  by  another  door,  or  by 
a  corridor  which  frequently  leads  first  to  a  narrow  antei-oom.  Many  of 
the  tombs  are  unfinished,  in  consequence  of  the  death  of  Amenophis  IV. 
and  the  subsequent  return  of  the  court  to  Thebes.  —  The  tombs  (in  bolh 
groups)  are  marked  with  black  numbers  (1-25),  running  from  N.  to  S. 


to  lAuror.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  15.  Route.    213 

Tomb  1  belonged  to  Huye,  superintendent  of  the  royal  barem 
and  steward  to  the  queen-mother  Teye.  In  the  entrance  is  the  de- 
ceased praying.  The  Main  Chamber  has  two  clustered  columns,  of 
which,  however,  only  that  on  the  left  side  is  standing.  Entrance 
Wall.  To  the  right  arc  the  king  and  queen  seated  at  table,  below 
the  queen  are  two  princesses  facing  each  other,  to  the  right  are 
guards,  etc.  Here,  as  in  all  similar  representations  in  the  tombs 
at  Tell  el-'Amarna,  the  sun  appears  above  the  royal  couple,  with 
rays  ending  in  hands.  Below  are  musirians,  a  table  with  offer- 
ings, bowing  servants,  soldiers,  etc.  Right  Wall.  A  temple  of  the 
sun  is  represented  with  the  chief  altar  in  the  colonnaded  court  and 
statues  ;  to  the  right  the  king,  escorted  by  guards  behind  and  below, 
leads  his  mother  to  the  temple  dedicated  to  the  king's  parents, 
Amenophis  III.  and  Teye;  above  is  the  sun  with  the  rays  ending 
in  hands.  Rear  Wall.  This  is  occupied,  on  each  side  of  the  door, 
by  two  companion-scenes  (much  injured),  showing  Amenophis  III. 
and  IV.,  with  their  consorts.  Left  Wall.  The  king  is  being  carried 
to  a  reception -hall  (right)  in  order  to  receive  the  tribute  of  his 
subject  nations;  he  is  accompanied  by  a  large  retinue.  Entrance 
Wall.  To  the  left,  a  scene  resembling  that  to  the  right  (see  above) 
—  On  both  walls  of  the  door  to  the  next  room  the  deceased  appears 
in  prayer.  The  following  chamber  (unfinished)  contains  the  mummy- 
shaft,  surrounded  by  a  parapet  hewn  in  the  solid  rock.  —  In  the  Last 
Chamber  (shrine)  is  a  recess  with  the  colossal  seated  figure  of  the 
deceased,  the  features  of  which  have  been  defaced.  On  the  walls 
are  burial  scenes,  mourners,  men  with  sacrificial  gifts,  a  carriage, 
chairs,  etc. 

Tomb  2,  belonging  to  Meri-re,  another  superintendent  of  the 
royal  harem,  deserves  special  attention  because  its  construction  was 
still  going  on  under  Sake-re,  the  son-in-law  and  successor  of  Amen- 
ophis IV.  The  Main  Chamber  has  two  columns;  the  rear  chambers 
are  unfinished.  Among  the  representations  in  the  former  the  following 
may  be  mentioned.  On  the  Entrance  Wall.  To  the  left  is  the  king 
seated  under  a  canopy  holding  a  goblet,  which  the  queen  is  filling 
with  water;  adjacent  stand  three  princesses.  To  the  right,  the  king 
and  queen,  in  a  balcony,  are  handing  down  golden  ornaments  to  the 
deceased;  while  in  the  forecourt  of  the  palace  (r.)  are  the  royal 
chariot  and  fan-bearers  and  the  secretaries  and  servants  of  Meri-re: 
below  are  represented  the  return  of  Meri-re  and  his  welcome  at  his 
own  house.  Right  Wall,  The  king  and  queen  seated  under  an 
elevated  canopy  receive  the  tributes  of  the  Asiatics  (left)  and  ne- 
groes (right);  other  captives  do  homage  to  the  king. 

The  other  tombs  lie  3/^  M.  to  the  S.E.,  on  another  hill-slope. 

Tomb  3,  belonging  to  Ahmose,  'fan-bearer  on  the  right  hand  of 
the  king",  may  be  visited  by  travellers  with  abundance  of  time. 

Over  the  entrance-door  is  the  deceased  worsbipping  tbe  names  of  tbe 
son;  to  tbe  right  and  left  within  the  duor  be  appears  praying  in  hi.s  ofli- 


214    Route  16.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  From  Cairo 

cial  costume  (with  fan  and  axe).  On  the  Left  Wall  of  the  Mais  Chambee 
the  royal  family  is  thow  n  at  a  banquet  in  a  hall  cf  the  palace;  above 
are  four  rows  of  soldiers,  armed  with  shields  and  spears,  etc.,  marching 
to  the  temple,  followed  by  the  royal  chariot  (merely  sketched  in  red 
pigment).  The  Side  Chambers,  on  each  side  of  the  corridor,  contain 
mummy-shafts,  and  on  the  side-walls  are  door-shaped  steles.  In  the  last 
room  is  a  statue  of  the  deceased. 

Tomb  4,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  interesting,  belonged  to 
Meri-re,  high-priest  of  the  sun.  The  reliefs  are  now  rather  dark 
and  require  to  he  well  lighted.  —  This  tomb  is  preceded  by  a 
spacious  court.  The  entrance-door  is  embellished  with  a  concave 
cornice  and,  on  its  inner  side,  with  a  representation  of  the  deceased 
in  prayer.  It  admits  us  to  a  Vestibule,  on  the  Right  and  Left  Walls 
of  which  are  door-shaped  steles,  with  the  deceased  praying  in  front 
and  large  nosegays  of  flowers  behind.  The  other  walls  are  covered 
with  inscriptions.  —  The  Main  Chambee.  beyond  was  originally 
borne  by  four  columns,  of  which  two  remain.  In  the  doorway,  to  the 
right  is  the  deceased,  to  the  left  his  wife,  praying.  Entrance  Wall, 
to  the  left.  The  king  throws  down  gold  to  Meri-re  from  the  balcony 
of  the  palace.  Left  Wall.  The  scenes  here  represent  the  king  driving 
in  his  chariot  from  the  palace  (on  the  left,  above)  to  the  temple 
of  the  sun  (see  below),  preceded  by  his  guards  and  followed  by  the 
queen,  princesses,  and  retinue  in  chariots  and  on  foot.  The  relief 
is  continued  on  the  Left  Half  of  the  Rear  Wall,  which  exhibits  the 
temple  of  the  sun,  at  the  entrance  of  which  priests,  in  humble  atti- 
tude, and  musicians  await  the  king.  Right  Wall  (the  reliefs  contin- 
ued along  the  Right  Half  of  the  Rear  Wall).  Above  is  the  king 
visiting  the  temple;  below,  Meri-re  Is  being  adorned  with  golden 
chains  in  the  presence  of  the  king  and  queen;  to  the  left  are  the 
royal  barns  and  storehouse.  Entrance  Wall,  to  the  right.  The  king 
and  queen,  accompanied  by  their  two  daughters,  offer  sacrifices  to 
the  sun ;  Meri-re  and  another  priest  stand  beside  the  altars.  Below 
are  the  royal  retinue  and  priests;  at  the  bottom,  to  the  right,  is  a 
charming  representation  of  blind  singers.  —  The  two  following 
rooms  are  unfinished. 

Tomb  5,  of  Pentu,  a  physician,  is  much  damaged.  On  each  side  of 
the  entrance  is  the  deceased  praying,  with  an  inscription  in  front  of  him 
containing  a  hymn  to  the  sun.  On  the  Left  Wall  of  the  first  chamber  are 
the  king  and  queen  praying  to  the  sun,  which  rises  over  the  pylon  of  the 
temple.  The  deep  mummy-shaft  is  in  the  side-passage  to  the  right.  The 
statue  of  Pentu,  which  stood  in  the  last  room,  has  been  chiselled  away.  — 
A  little  to  the  S.E.  is  — 

Tomb  6,  of  Penehse.  In  the  Entrance  Boor,  to  the  left,  are  the  king 
and  queen  followed  by  their  three  daughters  and  the  queen's  sister,  praying 
to  the  sun;  below  is  a  row  of  servants,  fan-bearers,  and  other  attendants; 
at  the  foot,  the  deceased  praying.  On  the  right  are  similar  scenes.  The 
JIain  Chamber  originally  contained  four  papyrus-columns  with  bud-capitals, 
of  which  two  still  remain.  The  false  door  on  the  rear  wall  to  the  left 
has  been  converted  into  a  kind  of  font,  probably  when  the  tomb  was 
used  as  a  church.  A  flight  of  steps  on  the  right  leads  to  the  sarcophagus - 
chamber.  Entrance  Wall  (to  the  left).  The  king  and  queen  hand  Penehse 
golden  ornaments  from  the  balcony  of  the  palace.  On  the  Left  Wall,  at 
the  top,  to  the  left,  appears  the  temple  of  the  sun,  with  the  king  praying 


tn  Luxor.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  15.  Route.    215 

at  an  altar  in  the  forecourt.  Entrance  Wali  (to  the  rii^ht).  The  deceased 
and  his  attendants  bring  offerings  to  the  royal  consorts,  who  are  ac- 
companied by  four  princesses.  —  A  door  with  a  representation  of  the 
(lecea'ieil  and  his  sister  leads  to  a  Second  Room  with  four  columns,  contain- 
ing the  niche  which  held  the  statue  of  the  deceased  (now  chiselled  away). 
A  visit  should  be  paid  also  to  thti  Boun'turif  Inscription  {comj).  p.  211), 
which  is  engraved  on  a  clifl'  about  li/j  Jf.  to  the  K.  of  Toml)  6. 

The  S.  Group  of  Tombs  is  situated  about  3  M.  due  S.,  amid 
the  low  spurs  of  the  Gehel  Abu  Hasdr.  Eighteen  have  been  opened 
(keeper,  see  p.  211). 

Farthest  to  the  N.  is  Tomb  8.  tlie  grave  of  Tutu. 

On  the  Door  Posts  the  deceased  is  represented  praying,  while  his  name 
and  titles  are  inscribed  above.  In  the  boortcay,  to  the  left,  are  the  king 
and  queen  sacrificing:  to  the  sun;  below,  the  deceased  kneels  in  prayer. 
To  the  Ti\iht  is  the  deceased  prayin'j:.  The  Main  (yiiAMBEE  had  its  ceiling 
originally  supported  by  twelve  columns  arranged  in  two  rows  (eight  still 
stand);  the  ccdunins  in  the  rear  row  are  united  by  low  stone  screens 
with  cornices,  and  between  the  central  pair  gate-posts  are  set  to  mark 
the  entrance.  A  llight  of  steps  on  the  left  leads  to  the  sarcophagus-chamber. 
In  the  two  short  side-walls  are  small,  partly  unfinished  recesses  with 
statues.  Entrance  Wall.  On  the  right  the  king  and  queen  look  on  from  the 
balcony  of  the  palace  (represented  on  the  left),  while  Tutu  is  being  adorned 
with  golden  chains;  beneath  is  the  deceased  in  prayer.  To  the  left  the 
royal  pair  are  seated  in  the  palace,  with  Tutu  and  other  courtiers  in 
respectful  attitudes  before  them  ;  beneath  is  the  deceased  in  prayer.  —  The 
Corridor  is  unfinished. 

Immediately  adjoining  is  Tomd  9,  belonging  to  Mahu,  an  officer 
of  the  police.  In  the  Entrance,  to  which  a  narrow  flight  of  steps 
descends,  are,  to  the  left,  the  king  (holding  the  hieroglyphic  for 
'truth'  towards  the  sun),  the  queen,  and  a  princess,  with  sistra,  in 
presence  of  the  sun;  beneath  kiuiels  the  deceased,  with  the  text  of 
his  prayer  inscribed  in  front  of  him.  To  the  right  is  the  deceased 
in  prayer.  —  We  next  enter  the  Main  Chaimheu.  Entrance  Wall 
(left  half).  The  king  stands  on  the  balcony  of  the  palace  (merely 
sketched  in  black  pigment).  Left  Wall.  A  tombstone  rounded  at 
the  top,  to  which  two  steps  ascend;  above  are  the  royal  pair; 
below,  the  deceased  in  prayer.  To  the  right  is  a  scene  that  is 
continued  on  the  Left  Half  of  the  Rear  Wall,  representing  men 
standing  before  the  temple  of  the  sun,  among  whom,  at  the  head 
of  the  lowest  row,  the  deceased  is  seen  kneeling  and  returning 
thanks  for  the  king's  goodness.  On  the  Right  Half  of  the  Rear  Wall, 
the  representations  on  which  are  continued  by  those  on  the  Jjeft 
Half  of  the  Right  Wall,  appear  the  king  and  queen,  driving  from  the 
palace,  with  out-runners  in  advance,  to  visit  the  fortifications  of  the 
City  of  the  Sun;  below,  we  see  them  returning.  Right  Wall.  In 
the  middle  is  a  door-shaped  tombstone.  Entrance  Waii  (right  half). 
In  the  lowest  row  we  see  Mahu  setting  out  in  his  chariot,  to  the 
left,  and  to  the  right,  Mahu  bringing  prisoners  to  the  vizier,  who  is 
accompanied  by  a  retinue,  in  the  second  row  from  the  foot  is  Mahn 
leaning  on  a  staff  and  listening  to  a  report  from  his  subordinates; 
to  the  right,  a  chariot  and  soldiers  running.  The  upper  rows  are 
badly  preserved.  —  The  Second  Koom  has  no  reliefs  or  paintings. 

Baedekkk'.s  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  ^4 


216   Route  15.  TELL  EL-'AMARNA.  From  Cairo 

In  the  rear  wall  is  a  false  door.    To  the  right  a  winding  stuircase  of 
46  steps  leads  to  a  chamber  in  which  opens  the  mummy-shaft. 

Tomb  10,  of  Epe'i,  is  unfinished.  To  tbe  left,  in  the  entrance,  are  the 
king  and  queen  offering  two  pictures  to  the  sun,  the  king  presenting  two 
princesses  who  worship  the  names  of  the  sun,  while  the  queen  presents  her 
own  portrait,  also  adoring  the  names  of  the  sun;  behind  them  are  three 
princesses  with  sistra;  the  sun  darts  his  rays  upon  an  altar  loaded  with 
food  and  vessels.  —  Tomb  11,  of  Ramose.  To  the  left,  in  the  entrance, 
are  the  royal  pair  accompanied  by  a  princess,  receiving  the  symbol  of 
'Life'  from  the  sun's  rays,  which  are  shaped  like  hands.  In  the  niche 
are  seated  {<gnres  of  the  deceased  and  his  wife.  —  Tombs  12  and  13,  though 
unfinished,  are  of  interest  as  illustrating  the  method  in  which  these  rock- 
tombs  were  hollowed  out.  —  Tomb  14  belonged  tn  Afei,  a  'military  com- 
mander and  fan-bearer  on  the  king's  right  hand',  whose  name  has  every- 
where been  carefully  obliterated,  while  the  names  of  the  king  and  queen 
have  been  left  uninjured.  The  tomb  is  unfinished.  On  the  right  portion 
of  the  entrance-wall  are  preliminary  sketches  in  black  of  the  quays  of  the 
City  of  the  Sun,  with  ships,  gardens,  and  the  palace  in  the  background.  — 
Tomb  17,  though  a  fine  specimen,  has  no  representations  or  inscriptions.  — 
Tomb  19,  of  Suti,  had  just  l)ecn  begun. 

Tomb  ^3,  Itelonging  to  Ene'i,  a  royal  house-steward  and  scribe,  differs 
from  the  other  tombs  in  its  arrangement.  A  (light  of  limestone  steps  as- 
cends to  the  entrance,  which  is  crowned  with  a  concave  cornice,  and  in 
front  of  which  a  colonnade  was  intended  to  be  ei-ected.  On  each  side  of 
the  lintel  are  the  king  and  queen  and  three  princesses  praying  to  the  sun  ; 
on  the  left  side  in  the  entrance  is  the  deceased  praying,  with  the  te.\t 
of  his  prayer  in  front  of  him,  on  the  right  side  he  appears  with  a  stalf 
and  nosegay  (painted  on  stucco).  The  walls  of  the  Main  Chamber  are 
coated  with  stucco,  but  with  the  exception  of  the  concave  cornice  at  the 
top  are  nnpainted.  In  the  Niche  is  a  colossal  statue  of  the  deceased.  On 
the  right  wall  are  the  deceased  and  his  wife  seated  before  a  worshipper ; 
on  the  left  wall,  the  deceased  seated  at  table  and  receiving  flowers  from 
a  priest.     These  scenes  also  are  painted  on  stucco  but  are  much  faded. 

Tomb  25,  the  farthest  to  the  S.  in  this  group,  belonged  to  Eye 
(A'i),  the  successor  of  Amenophis  IV.  (p.  cii),  and  perhaps  his  father- 
in-law.  This  tomb,  like  so  many  of  the  others,  was  left  unfinished, 
because  Amenophis  died  during  its  construction  and  the  court  was 
soon  afterwards  removed  back  to  Thebes,  where  Eye  caused  a  new 
tomb  to  be  made  for  himself  (p.  298).  On  the  Door  Posts,  to  the 
right  and  left,  are  Eye  and  his  wife  Teye,  kneeling  below  inscrip- 
tions. In  the  Entrance,  to  the  left,  are  the  king  and  queen,  followed 
by  the  princesses  and  the  court,  praying  to  the  sun,  which  directs 
its  arm-shaped  rays  towards  the  altar;  below  are  Eye  and  his  wife  in 
prayer.  To  the  right  are  Eye,  in  his  official  costume,  and  his  wife 
praying,  their  prayers  being  inscribed  beside  them.  —  The  Main 
Chamber  was  designed  to  be  supported  by  24  papyrus-columns 
with  bud-capitals,  but  only  16  have  been  hewn  out,  and  of  these 
only  4  are  finished.  The  remainder  (to  the  S.)  have  just  been  begun 
in  the  living  rock  at  the  top.  On  three  of  the  columns  appear  the 
deceased  and  his  wife,  adoring  the  names  of  the  sun  and  of  the 
king  and  queen.  In  the  centre  of  the  rear  wall  and  in  the  N.W. 
angle  are  unfinished  doors;  in  the  N.E.  angle  is  a  flight  of  steps 
intended  to  lead  to  the  sarcophagus-chamber,  which  has  not  even 
been  begun.  The  representation  on  the  left  portion  of  the  Entrance 
Wall.,  the  only  one  finished,  deserves  notice.    To  the  left  are  the 


to  Luxor. 


TELL  EL-'AMAHNA. 


75.  Roide.    217 


king  and  iiuten  at  tlic  balcony  ol'  the  palace  throwing  down  de- 
corations to  Eye  and  his  wife  (upper  parts  of  their  bodies  in  the 
Museum  at  Cairo).  Beside  the  queen  are  tlie  three  youthful  princesses, 
one  of  whom  strokes  her  mother's  chin;  above  shines  the  sun.  In  the 
courtyard  of  the  palace  wait  the  royal  retinue  (charioteers,  scribes, 
fan-bearers,  and  soldiers),  raising  their  hands  in  respectful  homage 
to  the  royal  pair.  The  curious  bent  attitudes  of  the  courtiers  should 
be  observed.  Below  are  boys  frisking  for  joy.  To  the  right  Eye 
leaves  the  palace,  receiving  the  congratulations  of  his  retainers, 
who  raise  their  hands  in  exultation ;  servant.s  carry  the  gifts  away. 
In  the  top  row  are  the  door-keepers  sitting  and  conversing  with  their 
yeomen  about  the  sounds  of  jubilation  that  reach  their  ears. 

About  61/2  JI.  frniu  Toll  el-'Aniarna,  in  a  mountain-valley  stretching 
towards  the  K.  between  the  N.  and  S.  (iroups  of  tombs,  anii  known  by 
the  Arabs  n^'Darb  el-Hainziiici  or  Darh  el-Melek,  are  a  number  of  un- 
inscrihed  rock-tumbs  .liid  (ini;  (No.  26j  which,  though  greatly  damaged, 
contain'*  many  interesting  ducorations.     This  is  tlie  — 

Family  Tomb  of  Amenophis  IV.  (closed;  keeper  at  liagg-Kandil).  A 
flight  ol  'JO  >^leps  (I'l.  a],  with  a  smooth  inclined  plane  in  the  middle  for 
the  transportation  of  the  sarcophagus,  leads  tn  the  Entrance  (I'l.  6),  whence 
a  sloping  Corridor  (\'\.  c)  leads  to  a  scconil  lli'^ht  of  l(j  Steps  (V\.  d),  beyond 


which  is  an  Antechamber  (PI.  e),  with  a  shaft,  now  filled  up,  and  damaged 
mural  reliefs.  Beyond  this  lies  the  Tomb  Chamber  (PI./),  in  which  the  sarco- 
phaeus  once  stood.  All  the  pillars  but  one  have  disappeared.  The  mural 
representations  were  carved  in  stucco,  but  all  are  much  damaiied  with  the 
exception  of  thuse  on  the  left  portion  of  the  entrance-wall  (king,  queen,  and 
princesses  adoring  the  sun)  and  the  left  wall  (king,  queen,  princess,  and 
professional  mourners  beside  a  bier?).  In  the  right  wall  is  a  small  recess 
(PI.  (/).  —  We  now  retrace  our  steps  towards  the  entrance.  Tu  the  left  of 
the  steps  at  d  lie  three  rooms  (PI.  /i,  i,  i),  embellished  with  reliefs  and  in- 
scriptions, forming  perhaps  the  Gkave  of  tue  Princ>;ss  Meket-Aton.  lioth 
the  main  walls  of  the  First  Room  (PI.  A)  show  almo.st  exactly  the  saiiie 
scene :  the  king  and  queen,  four  princesses,  and  the  royal  retinue  presenting 
offerings  to  the  snn,  which  is  seen  rising  over  the  mountains  behind  the 
pylon  iif  the  temple  (on  the  left);  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains  are  various 
animals.  To  the  left  {i.e.  on  the  left  part  of  the  entrance-wall  and  be- 
tween the  doors  on  the  rear  wall)  the  king's  non-Egyptian  subjects,  in- 
cluding  negroes   and    .Asiatics   in   their   distinctive   costnme     worship  the 


218    Route  15.  DEIRU'r.  From  Cairo 

suu.  In  the  lower  row  on  the  right  part  of  the  cntrance-vvull  we  see  the 
deceased  princess  on  the  bier,  beside  which  stand  the  king  and  queen 
and  professional  mourners;  in  the  upper  row  the  royal  pair,  the  nurse 
with  a  little  princess,  and  the  mourners  loudly  lament  the  deceased.  The 
Second  Room  (PI.  i)  contains  no  repre.'sentations.  On  the  rear  wall  of 
the  Third  Room  (PI.  k)  the  mummy  of  the  princess  is  shown  (on  the  left) 
standing  under  a  canopy,  while  in  front  of  it  the  royal  family  and  court 
are  mourning.  This  scene  is  continued  on  the  right  wall.  On  the  left 
wall  we  see  the  mummy  lying  below  tlie  same  canopy;  in  front  is  the 
mourning  royal  family,  while  farther  to  the  right  is  the  nurse  with  a 
young  princess  at  her  breast.  On  the  entrance-wall  are  objects  with  which 
the  tomb  was  furnished  (much  injured).  —  We  return  to  the  steps  at  d. 
Nearer  the  entrance  a  Corridor  (PI.  I)  leads  to  tlie  left  to  a  sloping  Passage 
(PI.  to)  ending  in  an  unfinished  Chamber  (PI.  n). 

In  the  hills  eiiolosing  the  plain  of  Tell  el-''Amarna  are  many 
quarries  of  limestone  and  alabaster.  The  most  important  are  the  Ala- 
baster Quarries  ofHet-nub^  about  IT)  M.  distant,  to  which  a  path  run- 
ning eastwards  to  the  S.  ol'  the  S.  group  of  tombs  "leads.  These 
quarries  are  ascertained  from  inscriptions  to  have  been  worked  under 
the  Ancient  Empire  and  at  the  beginning  of  the  Middle  Empire. 


Beyond  Deir  Mawas  (p.  211)  the  train  next  reaches  (1941/2  M.) 
Deirtlt  (Beirut  el-Mahatta),  a  district-capital  with  066')  inhab., 
on  the  Ihrahlrmyeh  Canal  (p.  231),  from  which  the  Bahr  Yiisuf 
(p.  190)  diverges  a  little  farther  up.  Steamer  of  the  Compaguie 
des  Bateaux-Omnibus  daily  to  Assiut  (p.  232).  We  notice  a  large 
lock  and  bridge  here.  About  2  M.  to  the  N.  is  tlie  considerable 
village  of  Deirdt  esh-Sherlf^  with  8649  inhabitants.  To  the  W.,  on 
the  edge  of  the  desert,  lies  the  village  of  BawU,  near  which  once 
lay  the  Coptic  monastery  of  Apa  Apollo,  of  which,  howevnr,  hardly 
any  trace  is  left  (remains  in  the  museum  at  Cairo,  see  p.  89). 

203  M.  NazCdi  Ganub.  Beyond  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal  lies  El- 
Kusiyeh  (El-Qusia),  now  an  insignificant  town  with  9678  inhab., 
the  ancient  Cussae,  in  which,  according  to  JSlian,  Venus  Urania 
and  her  cow  (i.e.  Hathor,  the  mistress  of  heaven)  were  worshipped. 
It  was  the  ancient  Egyptian  Gosu^  the  capital  of  the  Lower  Sycamore 
Nome.  —  About  6  M.  to  the  W.  of  Nazali  Ganub  lies  Meir  (M'ir),  a 
thriving  village  with  6266  inhabitants.  About  41/2  M.  from  the 
last-named  village  is  the  Necropolis  of  Gosu,  with  rock-tombs  of 
the  grandees  of  that  district  dating  from  the  Middle  Empire.  Several 
of  these  contain  very  fine  representations  (apply  to  the  keeper). 
The  interesting  contents  of  several  other  graves  of  the  same  period 
are  now  in  the  museum  at  Cairo.  Graeco-Roman  tombs  also  were 
found  here,  containing  mummies  with  painted  plaster  busts,  — 
Egyptian  rock-tombs  of  the  6th  Dyn.,  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions, 
exist  in  the  hills  of  Koseir  el-Amarna,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile, 
opposite  Nazali  Ganub. 

2151/2  M.  Manf aI6t  (Man/a^ou<;  p.  231),  a  district-capital  with 
14,482  inhab.,  close  to  the  river,  is  the  seat  of  a  ('optic  bishop  and 


to  Luxor.  SOHAG.  lb.  Route.    219 

contains  several  line  villas  and  gardens  and  a  bazaar.  Its  market  is 
much  frequented  on  Sat,  and  it  possesses  a  sugar- factory.  Date- 
brandy  {'araki)  is  made  here,  chiefly  for  local  consumption  by  the 
Gopts  but  partly  for  export  also. 

To  the  >^.W.  of  Maiitalut  lies  Beni  'AUi.  where  in  1708  a  collision 
took  plare  between  the  troops  of  General  Desaix  and  the  Arabs.  In  the 
following  year  (ieiieral  Davout  destroyed  it.  Jlohauimed  Ali  united  his 
army  here  in  I82U.  The  journey  to  the  oasis  of  Furofra  (p.  379)  is  fre- 
quently begun  here.  The  first  station  to  the  K.W.  is  the  Coptic  convent 
of  El-Meliarrak  (p.  ]iv). 

At  the  foot  of  the  hills  on  the  right  bank,  opposite  Manfaliit,  lie 
the  villages  of  El- Mti'abdeh,' Arab  el-'AUyut,  and  Deir  el-Gabrdwi. 

The  hills  to  the  N.E.  of  El-Ma'dbcleh  contain  tombs  of  the  Ancient 
Empire.  About  3i/'2  M.  to  the  N.E.,  on  the  plateau  of  the  Arabian  hill.s, 
is  the  so-called  Crocodile  Grotto,  which,  however,  is  hardly  worth  visiting, 
;is  practically  nothing  is  to  be  seen  except  the  charred  remains  of  the. 
mummies  of  crocodiles.  —  To  the  S.  is  the  GeOel  Kur?ieli,  with  a  quarry 
exhausted  in  the  reign  of  Sethos  II.  (inscription).  —  At  'Arab  el-'Atit/at, 
3  M.  to  the  E.  of  El-Ma'abdeh,  are  tombs  and  quarries.  About  2  M. 
farther  to  the  E.  lies  the  Coptic  village  Deir  el-6abrdwi,  containing  a 
Greek  inscription  (discovered  by  Mr.  Harris)  in  the  form  of  a  dedication 
of  the  Lusitanian  Cohort,  which  served  under  Diocletian  and  Maximian, 
to  Zeus,  Hercules,  and  jfike  (Victoria).  —  In  the  Gebel  ilardg .  a  ridge 
about  H/j  hr.  distant,  are  numerous  rock -tombs  belonging  to  princes 
and  grandees  of  the  nome  of  the  '■Serpent  MountairC.  These  tombs,  mostly 
dating  from  the  close  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  are  divided  into  a  N.W.  and 
a  S.E.  group,  the  former  comprising  SO  tombs  (4  with  inscriptions  and 
representations),  the  latter  about  40  (12  with  representations).  The  most 
interesting  are  two  of  the  S.E.  group,  situated  above  the  village  of  Deir 
rl-Gabrawi,  belonging  to  Zaw  and  Ebe  (6th  Dyn.),  'princes  of  the  nome 
of  the  Serpent  Mountain  and  of  the  nome  of  Abydos'.  Like  the  graves  of 
Henihasan  (p.  227),  these  tombs  contain  interesting  representations  of  handi- 
craftsmen, harvest-scenes,  fishing  and  hunting  scenes,  etc. 

233  M.  Assitit  or  Siut,  see  p.  232. 

241  M.  El-Mati'a(Motidd),  with  7479  inhabitants. 

248  m.  Abu  Tig  or  Butlg  (p. 285),  a  district-capital  with  a  school 
for  cotton-weaving  and  over  12,000  inhab.,  lies  in  the  ancient  ilyp- 
selite  nome.  The  present  name  is  probably  derived  from  the  Greek 
name  of  \\~o%rfA-q,  i.e.  Storehouse.  A  large  weekly  market  is  held 
on  Saturday.  —  254  M.  Sedfa  (Sidfa;  p.  235).  —  2591/2  M.  Tema 
(p.  235),  a  pretty  village  in  verdant  surroundings.  The  village  of 
A'orn  Eshkdf  (Kom  hhqau),  about  5  M.  to  the  S.,  is  the  ancient 
Aphroditespolis.  —  Opposite  (W.  bank)  is  the  fertile  plain  of  Kdu 
(p.  235),  the  Greek  AntaeopoUs.  —  263V2  M.  MisHa;  270  M. 
fahta  (p.  236),  a  district -capital  with  18,203  inhab.  and  a  noted 
cattle-market.  The  Arabian  hills  now  approach  close  to  the  E. 
bank.  —  278  M.  El-Mardgha  (p.  236);  284  M.  Shenduwin  {Chan- 
dan-il;  p.  236).    A  large  market  is  held  in  the  last  every  Saturday. 

290  m.  Soh&g  or  Souhag ( Hotel  Abydos,  R.only,  8pias.,  Hot.  Klii- 
divjai, both  nearthe  station;  Restaurant  Oriental  ).i-<fi\th  17,514inhab., 
is  the  remarkably  clean  capital  of  the  province  of  Girgeh  (575  sq.  M. ; 
792,971  inhab.).  The  handsome  government-building  (muiliriyeh) 
stands  in  a  neat  square.    Close  by  are  the  hospital  and  the  Pro- 


220   Route  li).  AKHMIM.  From  Cairo 

testaut  church.  The  Coptic  church  iu  insignificant.  The  bazaar  is 
small;  Monday  is  market-day.  The  post-office  is  in  the  pretty 
street  skirting  the  river.  An  excursion  to  the  White  Convent  (see 
below)  takes  ahout  3  hrs.  by  carriage  (ca.  20  pias.,  bargain  neces- 
sary; donkey  f)  pias.  and  fee  of  3  pias.). 

An  embanked  road  leads  to  the  W.  from  Soliag;,  via  the  village  of 
Mnzdlwe/i,  to  (3  M.)  the  early-Christian  settlement  of  the  White  Convent, 
or  Deir  el-Abyad,  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  Libyan  mountains.  The 
convent,  named  also  Deir  Anba  ShenUda  after  its  founder,  in  which  men, 
women,  and  children  live  in  families  (ca.  220  souls  in  all),  is  enclosed 
by  a  lofty  wall  of  white  limestone  blocks  and  looks  more  like  a  fortress 
than  a  convent.  The  wall  and  the  entrance-gateway,  on  the  S.  side,  are 
adorned  with  a  concave  cornice  like  an  Egyptian  temple.  The  church, 
a  basilica  with  nave  and  aisles,  dates  at  latest  from  the  5th  cent,  and  has 
been  recently  restored  by  Herz-Pasha.  The  chancel  ends  in  three  vaulted 
apses,  architecturally  interesting.  In  the  church  and  iu  the  court  (formerly 
the  aisles)  are  some  ancient  columns,  probably  taken  from  the  adjacent 
ruins  of  the  antique  Alripe  (Athribis).  The  ricli  treasures  of  the  library 
of  the  convent  have  been  sold  to  European  collectors.  —  About  S'/i  M.  to 
the  N.W.  (donkey  in  1  hr.)  is  the  Red  Convent,  Deir  el-Ahmar,  also  called 
Deir  Abu  Bshoi.  The  old  church  of  the  convent,  a  basilica  with  nave 
and  aisles,  is  a  very  ancient  structure  of  brick  (lately  restored),  with 
elaborate  capitals  and  a  richly  articulated  apse. 

About  400  yds.  below  the  post-office  (see  above)  a  steam-ferry 
(1  pias.)  crosses  the  river  to  the  E.  bank,  and  from  the  landing- 
place  an  omnibus  ('/2  pias.)  runs  in  about  ly2  l^r,  to  — 

Akhmim,  a  thriving  district-capital  \\  ith  23,795  inhab.,  includ- 
ing 6600  Copts.  The  weekly  market  on  Wed.  is  much  frequented, 
and  the  bazaar  is  well-stocked.  The  numerous  cotton-mills  produce 
the  cloth  for  the  blue  shirts  of  the  fellahin  and  for  the  long  shdla 
(pi.  shaldt),  or  shawls  with  fringes,  which  the  poorer  classes  wear 
on  state  occasions  and  for  protection  against  cold.  Akhmim  stands 
on  the  site  of  Chemmis  or  PanopoUs,  which  was  the  capital  of  a 
separate  nome.  The  Egyptians  named  it  Epu  and  also  Khente-Min, 
after  its  god,  the  ithyphallic  Min  (p.  cli),  whence  proceed  the  Coptic 
Shmin  and  the  Arabic  Akhm'im. 

Herodotus  (ii.  91)  distinguishes  the  citizens  of  Chemmis  as  the  only 
Egyptians  who  favoured  Greek  customs  and  relates  that  they  erected  a 
temple  to  Perseus,  worshipped  him  with  Hellenic  rites,  and  held  games 
in  his  honour.  The  citizens  claimed  Perseus  as  a  native  of  their  tovsm 
and  told  the  garrulous  Halicarnassian  that  he  had  visited  Chemmis,  when 
on  his  way  to  Libya  in  pursuit  of  the  Gorgon's  head,  and  had  recognized 
them  as  his  kinsmen.  A  statue  of  him  stood  in  the  temple-  From  time 
to  time  the  hero  revisited  Chemmis,  leaving,  as  a  si^n  of  his  presence, 
a  sandal,  two  cubits  long;  the  linding  of  this  was  considered  a  portent  of 
good  fortune.  —  Strabo  mentions  the  weavers  and  stone-cutters  of  Panopoli.«. 
—  Chemmis  still  flourished  in  the  Roman  period,  and  its  ancient  and 
famous  temple  was  finally  completed  in  the  12th  year  of  Trajan.  After 
Christianity  established  itself  here  the  vicinity  of  Panopolis  became  crowded 
with  convents.  Neslori  u.s  Bishop  of  Constantinople,  who  had  been  banished 
to  the  oasis  of  Khari;eh  (p.  379)  on  account  of  his  disbelief  in  the  divine 
noiotherhood  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  was  attacked  there  by  the  plundering 
Blemmyes  and  carried  captive  into  the  Thebaid,  where  he  surrendered 
himself  to  the  prefect  of  Panopolis,  to  avoid  a  charge  of  wilful  flight.  He 
died  in  Panopolis-Akhmim   (.ca.  440).     Even  after   the    conquest  of  Egypt 


lo  Luxor.  GIRGEH.  li>.  Route.    221 

by  the  Moliaminedans  ihe  temples  of  the  'great  town"  of  Akhmim  were, 
as  Abulfida  (1273-1331)  and  other  Arabs  relate,  among  the  most  important 
remains  of  the  days  of  the  Pharaohs.  But  the  ruins  of  these  temples  are 
now  very  scanty. 

In  18S4  an  extensive  Necropolis  was  discovered  among  the  low  hills 
about  3M.  to  the  K.E.  of  Akhmim.  The  route  thither  leads  via  (21/4  M.) 
El-Hatedwish,  in  a  hill  beyond  which  are  numerous  tombs  of  the  Kew  Empire 
mingled  with  some  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  To  the  N.  and  W.  is  a  Christian 
cemetery,  of  the  5-l5th  cent.,  and  in  the  vicinity  is  a  Coptic  convent.  The 
tombs  to  the  N.,  which  are  the  oldest,  date  from  the  Roman,  Ptolemaic,  and 
Egyptian  periods.  Farther  up  the  mountain  are  tombs  of  the  6th  Dynasty. 
—  To  the  S.  of  Akhmim  is  a  rock-chapel  constructed  under  King  Eve 
(18th  Dyii.). 

The  railway  crosses  the  Sohagtyeh  Canal,  which  joins  tlie  Ibra- 
liiraiyeh  Canal  at  Assiut  and  is  intended  to  convey  the  watiT  of 
the  rising  Nile  as  far  as  possible  towards  the  Libyan  Desert.  — 
294  M.  Bala.%fura,  a  village  with  5045  inhabitants. 

299  M.  El-Menshiyeh  or  El-Minsha  (El-Menchkh,  Menchah)  is 
merely  a  peasants'  town,  with  10,810  inhab.  and  very  few  houses 
of  a  better  class.  It  occupies  the  site  of  Ptolema'is  Hermiou,  a 
town  founded  by  Ptolemy  Soter  I.  and  described  by  Strabo  as  'the 
largest  town  in  the  Thebaid  and  not  inferior  in  size  to  Memphis, 
with  a  constitution  drawn  up  in  the  Hellenic  manner'.  Its  Egyp- 
tian name  was  Pso'L 

About  71/2  M,  to  the  W.  of  El-Menshiyeh,  near  the  village  of  Kawdmil, 
are  large  cemeteries  of  the  earliest  period. 

305V2  M.  El-A.mrat. 

312  m.  Girgeh  (Girga,  Guerga)  is  a  district-capital  with  19,893 
iiihab.,  of  whom  5443  are  Copts.  A  large  weekly  market  is  held  on 
Tuesday.  Many  of  the  houses  are  built  of  burnt  brick  and  decorated 
with  glazed  tiles.  Outside  the  town  lies  a  convent  of  the  United 
Copts,  which  is  probably  the  oldest  but  one  in  Egypt. 

About  31/j  M.  to  the  W.  of  Girgeh ,  near  Beit  K/ialldf,  is  a  large 
brick  mastaba  of  the  time  of  King  Zoser  (3r(l  Dyn.l,  excavated  by  Prof. 
Garstang.'—  The  village  of  El-Birba,  31/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Girgeh,  per- 
haps occupies  the  site  of  T/iis  (Egypt.  Tine),  the  capital  of  the  first  two 
dynasties  (p.  xcix)  and  uf  a  nome  of  the  same  name. 

Upon  the  E.  bank  opposite  Girgeh,  near  Nag'ed-Deir,  lie  several  cem- 
eteries, some  of  them  of  the  prehistoric  period,  which  have  been  excavated 
by  Dr.  Reisner  at  the  cost  of  the  University  of  California  (comp.  p.  98).  — 
Farther  to  the  S.  is  the  old  Coptic  convent  of  Deir  el-Mel&k,  the  large  ceme- 
tery of  which  is  still  used  by  the  Christian  inhabitants  of  Girgeh.  The 
Arabian  mountains,  which  approach  close  to  the  river  beyond  the  village, 
contain  numerous  tombs,  four  of  which,  at  a  considerable  elevation,  belonged 
to  srandees  of  the  ancient  This  (see  above).  Their  inscriptions  and  repre- 
sentations are  now  scarcely  visible.  —  At  Mtiheikh,  about  3  M.  farther  to 
the  S..  are  remains  of  a  temple  built  by  Ramses  II.  and  restored  by  Ame- 
nephthes.  Hesheikh  is  a  village  of  the  Aulad  Yehya,  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Lepidolonpolis.  Above  the  village  are  some  ancient  rock-tombs, 
the  chief  of  which  belonged  to  Knher-mose,  a  high-priest  of  This  in  the 
reign  of  Amenephthes  flOth  Dyn.). 

317V-2  M.  liardts,  a  village  with  8872  inhabitants. 
321 V2  ^i-  Baliana  (Hotel  <$-  Bar  Abydos,  on  the  river  V2  M, 
from  the  railway  station,   R.  8  pias.,    unpretending),   a  district- 


222    Route  Lb.  NAG' HAMADl.  From  Cairo 

capital  of  7875  inhab.,  is  a  steamboat  station  (p.  236)  and  the 
starting-point  for  the  highly  interesting  excursion  to  Abydos  (p.  237  J, 

326V2  ^I-  -^^^  Shilsheh  (Abou  Choucha),  the  ancient  Egyptian 
Pe(r)-zdz.  About  3  M.  to  the  S.  lies  SamhM,  on  amdent  rubbish- 
mounds.  —  332  M.  Abu  Tisht.  —  3341/2  M.  Khargeh  or  Oasis  Junc- 
tion (Muaslet  tl- Khargeh),  for  the  oasis  railway  to  El- Khargeh 
(p.  380).  Beyond  (3381/2  M.)  Farshut  the  railway  approaches 
the  Nile. 

3431/2  M.  Nag'  Ham&di  is  a  district-capital  with  3867  inhab. 
and  a  large  sugar-factory.  The  railway  crosses  the  Nile  here  by  a 
large  iron  bridge  and  remains  on  the  E.  banlc  as  far  as  Assuan. 

3471/2  M-  Ed-Dabeh  (Dahheh}. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  railway  .station,  near  some  larjjc  quarrie.<i 
among  the  Arabian  hills,  are  the  tombs  of  Ka^r  cx-Saiydd,  belonging  to 
jirinr.es  of  the  seventh  nome  of  ll])per  Egypti  under  the  6th  Dynasty. 

The  large  tomb  situated  farthest  to  the  left  is  that  of  the  nomarch 
Zauti.  It  consisted  of  two  chambers,  the  partition-wall  between  which 
has  almost  wholly  disappeared.  Its  vaulted  ceiling  was  hewn  out  of  the 
living  rock.  The  representations  in  the  interior  have  been  largely  destroyed. 
In  the  first  (S.)  chamber,  to  the  right  of  the  entrance,  ships.  In  the  rear 
wall  is  a  niche,  whence  a  mummy-shaft  descends  obliquely.  Farther  to 
the  left,  in  the  S.W.  corner,  is  a  room  with  four  niches,  probably  intended 
for  the  coffins.  In  front  of  them  is  a  bench.  On  the  N.  wall  of  the 
second  (N.)  charmber  are  figures  bearing  funeral  gifts  and  a  large  sacri- 
ficial table,  with  a  list  of  the  gifts.  On  the  W.  wall  is  a  niche  with  a 
figure  of  the  deceased.  This  tomb  contains  also  inscriptions  of  the  Middle 
Empire,  recording  its  restoration  by  a  descendant  of  Zauti. 

The  next  tomb,  farther  to  the  right,  is  that  of  a  prince  named  Etu. 
The  interior  is  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle,  with  the  mummy-shaft  opening 
in  the  back-wall.  The  representation  of  Etu,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
is  very  lifelike  and  derives  peculiar  interest  from  the  fact  that  the  grandees 
of  the  early  period  are  seldom  represented,  as  here,  in  full  military 
activity.  Our  hero  lifts  his  arm  vigorously  to  strike  his  I'oe.  The  mode 
of  wearing  the  hair  and  headdress,  seen  both  in  this  figure  and  that  of 
bHu's  wife,  is  unusual.  Etu  was  a  rich  man,  possessing,  according  to  the 
inscriptions,  2350  oxen.  On  the  left  side  of  the  rear  wall  are  several 
scenes  from  the  private  life  of  the  deceased.  Cattle  are  being  slaugh- 
tered, cooks  are  busy  at  their  work,  etc.  Above  the  door  leading  to  the 
mummy-shaft  we  see  an  unusually  large  table,  adjoining  which  is  along 
but  much  damaged  inscription. 

The  smaller  tombs  in  the  vicinity  are  less  interesting.  Several  Coptic 
inscriptions  testify  that  anchorites  found  retreats  in  these  tombs  during 
the  Christian  period. 

355  M.  F&u  (Faou),  with  15,448  inhab.,  is  the  Coptic  Phbow, 
where,  at  a  large  convent  founded  by  Pachomius,  the  monks  of  all 
the  convents  in  Egypt  used  to  assemble  twice  a  year.  A  little  farther 
to  the  S.,  on  the  E.  bank,  lay  Tabennese,  where  Pachomius  founded 
the  first  convent  about  320  A.D. 

359  M.  Beshna  (Dechna^  Dishna),  a  district-capital  with  10,886 
inhab.,  is  situated  on  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  town.  —  363  M. 
Samata.  —  SBTl/o  M.  Aulad  'Ainr.  To  the  right,  on  the  left  bank, 
is  seen  the  ruined  temple  of  Dendera  (  p.  244). 

3771/2  M.  Keneh,  Kena,  or  Qena  (Hotel,  Denderah,  R.  only),  the 
ancient  Kaincpolis,   with  20,069  inhab.,  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  a 


Lo  Luxor.  KUFT.  16.  Route.   223 

canal,  about  1  M.  from  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile.  It  is  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Keneh,  which  has  an  area  of  about  650  sq.  M.  and  a 
population  of  772,492.  The  railway  station  is  to  the  E.  of  the  town, 
the  mudiriyeh  in  a  neat  square  to  the  S.W.  Keneh  has  a  special 
reputation  for  its  Kulal  (pi.  of  Kulla;  comp.  p.  110),  or  cool  porous 
water-bottles,  and  for  other  clay  vessels.  Hundreds  of  thousands 
of  these  vessels  are  annually  exported  to  Cairo  and  Alexandria, 
chiefly  by  water.  Keneh  is  at  the  starting-point  of  the  routes  through 
the  Eastern  Desert  (R.  25),  and  at  the  time  of  the  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca  is  thronged  with  pilgrims. 

Railway  travellers  make  the  excursion  to  Dendera  (p.  244)  from 
the  station  of  Keneh  in  ca.  4-5  hrs.  (donkey,  incl.  ferry  across  the 
river,  10  pias.  and  fee  of  ■')  pias. ;  carr.  not  recommended).  We 
cross  the  canal  near  the  mudiriyeh  (see  above)  and  follow  an  avenue 
of  lebbakh-trees,  passing  the  pri.son  and  the  office  of  the  irrigation 
department  on  the  right,  to  the  Nile.  The  ferry  is  •/.2  hr.  down- 
stream, beyond  the  hamlet  of  El-Hamidat.  On  the  Sv.  bank  the 
route  skirts  the  river  to  the  landing-place  of  Cook's  steamers,  then 
strikes  off  to  the  hamlet  oi  Kafr  el-Kahragelleh  and  the  (8/4  hr.) 
Temple  of  Dendera  (p.  245). 

390  M.  'K.MiKQift,  Kaft).  the  ancient  Kcptos  (Egypt.  Kebtoyew), 
situated  beyond  the  Shanhuriyeh  Canal.  Though  now  of  no  import- 
ance (pop.  8934),  this  place  was  in  remote  antiquity  a  flourishing 
commercial  town,  and  down  to  the  Graeco-Roman  period  was  one 
of  the  chief  emporia  for  the  wares  of  Arabia  and  India.  It  stood 
under  the  protection  of  the  ithyphallic  harvest-god  Min  (Pan  |,  who 
was  also  the  patron  of  travellers  in  the  desert.  During  tlie  great 
rebellion  in  Upper  Egypt  under  Diocletian  (292  A. D.)  Koptos  was 
besieged  and  destroyed,  but  it  quickly  recovered  from  the  blow. 
Down  to  the  time  of  the  Caliphs  it  remained  a  populous  trading- 
town.    The  extant  ruins  are  of  no  great  interest. 

At  Koptos  the  tireat  caravan-routes  through  the  .\rabian  Desert  to 
the  seaports  on  the  Red  Sea  quitted  the.  >.'ile  valley.  The  chief  goals  of 
the  caravans  were  the  Sinaitic  peninsula  and  the  land  of  Punt  (Fwenet), 
situated  about  the  modern  Somali  Ojast,  which  yielded  incense,  ivory, 
ebony,  pauther-skins,  etc.,  and  was  regarded  by  the  E§:yptiaus  as  a  land 
of  fabulous  wonders,  like  India.  Other  caravans  made  for  the  iVddi  JJa7H- 
indmAt  in  the  desert,  which  produced  a  hard  stone  much  prized  by  the 
Ei;yptian  sculptors  (comp.  p.  374).  At  a  later  period  the  caravan-trade 
was  diverted  to  the  routes  via  Kiis  and  finally  to  those  via  Keneh. 

397  iAl.  Kiis  (Qus.  Kous),  a  district-capital  with  14,355  inhab., 
occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  ApoUonopolis  l\iri}(i,  where  the  goil 
Haroeris  (a  form  of  Horus)  was  worshipped.  According  to  AbuKida 
(d.  1331)  this  town,  of  which  now  heaps  of  ruins  alone  remain, 
was  second  in  si/e  only  to  Fustat  (Cairo)  and  was  the  chief  centre 
of  the  Arabian  trade.  A  few  stones  with  fragmentary  inscriptions 
have  been  built  into  the  houses  of  the  town ;  and  the  mosque  contains 
a  basin  formed  of  a  single  stone,  with  the  name  of  Ptolemy  Phila- 
delphus  upon  it. 


224    RouU  15.  TUKH. 

On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  Kus,  lies  TAkh  (Toukh)^  to  the  N.W.  of 
which,  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  are  the  ruins  of  Ombos  (excavated 
by  Flinders  Petrie  in  1895),  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  town  of 
that  name  to  the  S.  of  Gebel  Silsileh  (p.  349).  Seth  was  the  guardian 
deity  of  this  town.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  extensive  cemeteries 
dating  from  the  prehistoric  period  and  that  of  the  first  Egyptian 
dynasties. 

Also  on  the  W.  bank,  to  the  S.  of  Tukh,  whence  it  may  be 
reached,  is  Nakddeh  (Naqada),  a  town  of  8112iiihab.  (5336  Gopts), 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  river,  with  post  and  telegraph  offices, 
a  Coptic  and  a  Koman  Catholic  church. 

To  the  N.  of  Nakadeb  a  large  and  mucli  damaged  mastaba  of  brick 
was  discovered  by  De  Morgan  in  1897.  By  many  this  is  supposed  to  be 
Iho   Tomb  of  Menes,  the  first  historical  Egyptian  king  (pp.  xcix,  01). 

On  the  edge  of  the  desert,  between  Nakadeh  and  Kamula  (p.  250), 
lie  four  ancient  Coptic  Convents,  said  to  date  from  the  time  of  the  Em- 
press Helena.  Deir  el-Meldk,  the  largest,  is  built  of  crude  bricks  and  con- 
tains four  connected  chiirrhes,  of  which  the  largest  is  dedicated  to  St. 
Michael.  The  convent,  which  has  18  domes,  is  now  unoccupied,  and  is 
used  for  divine  service  only  on  certain  festivals  by  the  clergy  of  Nakadeh.  — 
The  other  convents  ai-e  those  of  Es-8aHb  (near  Ed-Denfik),  Mclri  Oirgit 
and  Mdri  Boktcr  (St.  Victor),  which  last  is  the  oldest. 

40772  M.  Khizdm  has  a  necropolis  of  the  11th  Dynasty.  To  the 
right,  on  the  opposite  bank,  appear  the  ruins  of  W.  Thebes,  while 
near  the  railway  are  the  imposing  ruins  of  Karnak. 

416'/2M.  Luxor  (p.  251);  the  station  is  to  the  S.K.  of  the  village. 
Travellers  to  Assuan  change  carriages  and  proceed  by  the  narrow- 
gauge  line  (p.  332). 


16.  From  Cairo  to  Assiutby  the  Nile. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  206. 

247  M.  TocKiST  Stkamboat  in  4  days  (comp.  p.  203). 

The  starting-place  of  the  steamers  is  below  the  Kair  en-NU 
Bridge.  To  the  left  (E.  bank)  lie  the  quarter  of  Kasr  ed-Dubara, 
the  British  A.gency,  the  island  of  Uoda,  and  Old  Cairo  (p.  106), 
beyond  which  rise  the  Mokattam  Mts.,  with  the  citadel;  on  the  W. 
bank  are  the  town  of  Gizeh  and  the  Great  Pyramids.  —  To  the  left 
( E.  bank),  farther  on,  are  El-Ma'ddi,  Tura,  and  Ma'sara  (p.  167). 
Among  the  hills  are  the  large  quarries  mentioned  at  p.  170.  Oppo- 
site, on  the  W.  bank,  rise  the  pyramids  of  Abusir,  Sakkara,  and 
Dahshur.  Farther  up,  to  the  left,  amidst  a  fine  grove  of  palms,  is 
a  Coptic  convent. 

The  steamer  remains  for  some  hours  at  (14  M.)  Bedrashein  (rail, 
station),  where  asses  are  kept  ready  for  a  visit  to  Sakkara  (see 
p.  142).  Opposite,  on  the  right  river-bank,  lies  the  village  of  Hel- 
u^dn  and  a  little  inland  is  the  watering-place  of  that  name  (p.  167). 

On  the  W.  bank,  at  (31  M.)  El-'Aydt  (rail,  station,  p.  205),  a 
district- capital  (2428  iniiab.),  where  the  tourist  -  steamers  lay  to 


EL-WASTA.  10.  Route.    225 

for  the  night,  are  some  ancient  (-onstructions.  To  the  left,  on  the 
E.  bank,  lies  Es-Sa/f,  a  district-capital  with  2844  inhabitants.  Op- 
posite, at  EL-Matanyeh  (p.  205),  lie  the  pyramids  of  Lisht  (p.  205J. 

Rikka  (rail,  s-tation),  on  the  W,  bank,  is  a  starting-point  for  the 
excursion  to  the  Pyramid  of  Meidum  (p.  205). 

Passing  a  few  islands  we  reach  (\V.  Lank)  El-Wasta  (rail, 
station,  see  p.  206;  branch-line  to  the  Faiyum,  p.  191 ;  post-office 
and  Arab  telegraph  at  the  rail,  station,  l  4  M.  from  the  Nile). 

On  the  W.  bank  the  mountains  recede  a  little,  but  on  the  E.  bank 
their  steep  and  lofty  spurs  frequently  extend  down  to  the  river  in 
rising  picturesque  forms.  None  of  the  Nile-villages  before  Benisueif 
need  be  mentioned.  On  the  E.  bank  stands  the  Coptic  convent  of 
Deir  Mar  Antonios,  from  which  a  caravan-route  leads  to  tlie  Ked  Sea. 
—  On  the  W.  bank  lies  Ashment  (p.  200),  and  about  2M.  inland  is 
the  village  of  Bush  (Bouche;  rail,  station,  p.  20G). 

711/2  M.  (W.  bank)  Benisueif  (rail,  station,  see  p.  206). 

The  next  villages  are  Tezment  and  El-Halabhjeh,  picturesquely 
situated  among  palms  on  the  W.  bank,  and  Beni  Solimdn,  on  the  E. 
bank.  As  far  as  Minyeh  (p.  208)  the  space  between  the  E.  bank  and 
the  hills  remains  narrow,  the  limestone  rocks  frequently  abutting  on 
the  river  in  unbroken  walls  or  rounded  bluffs.  Few  villages  are 
seen  on  this  bank,  but  the  fertile  alluvial  tract  on  the  W.  side, 
10-12  M.  in  width,  is  thickly  populated  and  carefully  cultivated, 
exhibiting  in  profusion  all  the  cereals  that  grow  on  the  Nile,  date 
palms,  cotton,  and  sugar-cane.  The  sugar- factories,  most  of  which 
have  European  nianasxers,  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  They 
are  connected  by  the  railway,  aud  short  branch-lines,  used  in  har- 
vest-time only,  run  from  them  to  the  plantations  lying  farther  to 
the  W.  Their  lofty  brick  and  iron  chimneys  impart  a  very  modern 
industrial  air  to  the  ancient  land  of  the  Pharaohs.  Large  barges 
with  sugar-canes  or  with  fellahin  'factory-hands'  are  met  on  the 
river.  The  juice  is  expressed  from  the  caue  and  then  refined  by 
being  boiled  twice  in  closed  vessels. 

The  boat  passes  several  large  islands.  On  the  W.  bank  lie  Ba- 
ranka  and  Blbeh,  the  latter  a  railway  station  (p.  206).  The  bell- 
tower  of  the  Coptic  convent,  surmounted  by  a  cross,  is  visible  from 
afar.  On  a  promontory  of  the  E.  bank,  opposite  Bibeh,  is  the  tomb 
of  a  sheikh;  in  the  river  lies  the  Gezlrtt  el-Blbeh,  an  island  of  some 
size.  The  channel  now  contracts  and  the  picturesqne  hills  on  the 
E.  approach  the  river.  Nnmerous  islets.  05  M.  Fcshn  (^rail.  station, 
p.  207),  on  the  W.  bank,  is  11  '.7  ^I-  from  the  liver.  Above  Feshn  are 
the  island  and  village  (E.  bank)  of  Et-Hlbeh  (p.  207). 

On  the  W.  bank  lies  Fant  (rail,  station,  p.  207),  and  on  the  E. 
bank  are  several  palm-shaded  villages.  The  Gebel  Sheikh  Etnbdrak 
(Gebel  eah-Sheikh)   and  the  Gebel  Kardra  approach  the  E.  bank. 

IO8V2  M.  (W.  bank)  MagMgha  (rail,  station,  p.  207). 

The  Nile  channel  is  very  wide  here  {Gezirei  Sharuna  and  other 


226    liouU  16.  GEBEL  ET-TEIR.  I<roin  Cairo 

islands);  farther  on  both  banks  are  flat.  —  113  M.  (E.  bank)  Sharuna 
(p.  207). 

118  M.  Bent  Mazar  (W.  bank)  is  a  railway  station  (p.  207).  — 
About  2  M.  farther  up,  close  to  the  E.  bank,  is  the  village  of  Esh- 
Sheikh  Fadl  (steamboat  station),  with  3616  inhab.  and  a  large 
sugar-factory. 

Farther  on,  on  the  W.  bank,  1^/4  M.  from  the  river,  is  Matdi 
(rail,  station,  p.  207).  —  Near  (1331/2  M. ;  W.  bank)  KoLosna  (rail, 
station,  p.  207)  the  Nile  forms  the  large  island  of  Es-Sariuyeh. 
Opposite  (E.  bank)  lies  the  vUlage  of  Es-Sarirlyeh  (El-Seririelt). 
To  the  N.  and  S.  are  ancient  limestone  quarries,  now  disused. 
Among  the  S.  quarries  is  a  small  Rock  Chapel,  built  under  Ame- 
nephthi's  and  dcdirated  to  Hathor.  On  one  of  the  rocks  is  a  represent- 
ation of  Itainses  III.  between  Hathor  and  another  deity. 

On  the  W.  bank  lies  the  railway  station  of  Samdiut  (p.  208).  A 
little  farther  to  the  S.,  at  the  mouth  of  a  side-valley  on  the  E. 
bank,  rise  the  steep  rocky  sides  of  the  Gebel  et-Teir  ('bird-moun- 
tain'), with  an  extensive  flat  top  bearing  the  Coptic  convent  Deir 
Gebel,  et-Teir,  known  also  as  Deir  el-Bakara  or  Deir  el-Aclra  ('con- 
vent of  the  Virgin').  Visitors  are  drawn  up  a  vertical  cleft  in 
the  rock  by  means  of  a  windlass.  The  convent,  which  consists  of 
a  group  of  miserable  huts,  occupied  not  only  by  monks  but  also 
by  laymen  with  their  wives  and  children  (510  souls  in  all),  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  of  hewn  stone,  erected  in  the  Roman  period.  The 
foundation  of  the  church  is  ascribed  to  the  Empress  Helena;  the 
sanctuary  is  hewn  in  the  solid  rock  and  possesses  a  gate,  now  half- 
buried,  adorned  with  Byzantine  ornamentation. 

A  legend,  recorded  by  Makrizi,  relates  that  on  tlic  saints  day  of  the 
convout  all  the  bukir  birds  assembled  here  and  thrust  their  liills,  one  after 
the  other,  into  a  cleft  of  the  rock  until  one  died.  These  birds  are  described 
as  being  black  and  white,  with  a  black  neck  ringed  near  the  head.  The 
convent  is  named  also  Deir  el-Bukir  after  them. 

On  the  E.  bank,  about  1/0  hr.  farther  on,  is  the  village  of  Tehna 
(p.  208).  —  142  M.  (W.  bank)  Minyeh  (p.  208). 
167  M.  Benihasan,  on  the  E.  bank. 


Benihasan. 


Donkeys  (with  good  saddles)  are  in  waiting  at  the  landing-place  of 
the  steamers,  for  the  excursion  to  the  Speos  Ariemidos  .ind  the  Rock  Tomtig 
(there  and  back  3-4  hrs.;  5-8  pias.).  —  For  travellers  by  railway  the  most 
convenient  station  is  Minyeh  (comp.  p.  209). 

The  present  village  of  Benikasan  (Bent  Hxisein  Slterfik)  was 
founded  towards  the  end  of  the  18th  cent,  by  the  inhabitants  of  an 
older  village  (see  p.  227),  now  lying  deserted  to  the  N.,  who  wished 
a  wider  space  for  cultivation  near  their  abode.  —  The  route  from 
the  landing-place  to  the  Speos  Artemidos  ('/.)  hr.'s  ride)  descends 
the   river  at  first,   then  strikes  off  to  the  right  towards  the  desert 


to  Axmit.  BENIHASAN.  16.  Route.    227 

along  an  fnibaiiknjcnt  leading  thronn;li  lields.  In  the  vicinity  is  the 
lats'  graveyard,  in  which  the  cats  sacred  to  Pckhet,  patron-goddess 
of  this  region,  were  interred.  Farther  to  the  S.E.  we  reach  a  wadi 
or  ravine,  from  the  mouth  of  which  an  old  cemetery  of  the  22nd- 
25th  Dyn.  stretches  toward  the  plain.  In  the  valley  are  several 
quarries  of  ancient  date,  and  on  the  right  (S.)  side  of  the  ravine, 
about  000  paces  from  its  mouth,  lies  the  temple. 

The  rock-templ(^  of  the  goddess  Pekhct,  called  Specs  Artemidos 
('Grotto  of  Artemis')  by  the  Greeks,  is  known  to  tlie  Arabs  as  Jstnbl 
y4ntar('Antar"s  stable'),  after  an  ancient  hero.  It  consists  of  a  vesti- 
bule and  of  an  inner  chamber  connected  with  the  vestibule  by  a 
short  corridor.  It  was  built  in  the  joint  reign  of  Queen  Hatshepsut 
and  King  Thntmosis  III,;  the  latter  afterwards  erased  the  names 
and  representatioTis  of  iiis  sister  (comp.  p.  299),  and  Sethos  I. 
(19th  Dyn.)  inserted  his  own  names  in  tlie  blanks. 

Over  the  Kntrance  to  the  temple  is  a  lonj;  inscription  in  pr.iise  of  the 
rei'in  111'  Hatsliepsiit.  Of  the  eii^ht  pillars  which  supporteii  the  Vestibdlk 
only  three  now  remain  -,  these  bear  on  their  sides  the  names  of  Tlmtmosis  111. 
and  .Sethos  I.  (oriu-inally  Hatshepsut).  The  front?  .seem  to  have  been  adorned 
with  .sistra  (unfinished),  r^ear  Wall.  To  the  left  of  the  door.  Sethcs  I.  be- 
tween Amon-Ke  (enthroned)  and  the  lion-headed  Pekhet:  Thout  deliver- 
ing a  speech  to  the  nine  great  gods  of  Karnak  and  to  the  gods  of  Upper 
and  Lower  Keypt.  To  the  right  of  the  door  are  three  reliefs:  Sethos 
sacrificing  to  Pekhet;  Sethos  receiving  from  Pekhet  the  hieroglyphics  of 
the  word  'life',  hanging  from  two  sceptres  ;  Sethos  blessed  by  Thout.  To 
the  left  in  the  Corridor  is  a  long  inscription  of  Sethos  I.  and  a  represent- 
ation of  the  king  otl'ering  wine  to  Pekhet;  to  the  right,  he  oilers  her  s>. 
cynocephalns.  In  the  rear  wall  of  the  Ikner  Chamber  is  a  niche  intended 
for  a  statue  of  the  goddess. 

To  the  W.  (right)  is  a  second  grotto,  on  the  outside  of  which,  at 
the  entrance,  are  the  cartouches  of  v4iea;onder //.,  son  of  Roxana, 
and  six  small  scenes  representing  the  king  in  the  company  of  the 
gods.  The  interior,  which  was  supported  by  pillars,  is  now  in  ruins; 
perhaps  it  was  never  completed.  In  the  vicinity  are  several  rock- 
tombs  of  the  New  Empire,  in  the  form  of  rectangular  chambers, 
with  deep  shafts. 

We  now  return  to  the  mouth  of  the  desert-ravine  and  proceed 
thence  to  the  N..  passing  the  ruins  of  Benihasan  el-Kadlm  ('Old 
Benihasan';  see  p.  226).  In  '/o  hr.  we  reach  a  ruined  tower,  whence 
the  path  ascends  the  hill-slope  to  the  — 

*Rock  Tombs  of  Benihasan  (^/4  hr.'s  ride  direct  from  the  land- 
ing-place). These  were  constructed  during  the  Middle  Empire  by 
the  princes  and  grandees  of  the  town  of  Monet-Khufu  ('Nurse  of 
Khufu'),  and  rank  among  the  most  interesting  monuments  in  all 
Egypt,  not  only  on  account  of  their  remarkable  architectural  fea- 
tures, but  also  lor  their  important  inscriptions  and  representations 
of  scenes  from  the  domestic  life  of  the  early  Egyptians.  The  latter 
are  painted  in  bright  colours  upon  stucco,  but  many  of  them  are 
faded  and  injured. 

The  tombs,  39  in  all,  are  arranged  in  a  row  in  the  rocks  and  are 
now  distinguished  by  red  numbers.     The  be.st  examples  are  protected  by 


228   Route  16.  RENIHASAN.  From  Cairo 

iron  doors.  Travellers  whose  time  is  limited  may  content  themselves 
with  a  visit  to  the  four  chief  tombs  (Nos.  17,  15,  3,  2).  For  remarks  on 
the  construction  of  the  tombs,  see  p.  clxx. 

The  path  tliat  ascends  to  the  tombs  brings  us  first  to  No.  32. 
Here  we  turn  to  the  N.  (left)  and  proceed  to  — 

*ToMB  17,  which  belonged  to  Kheti,  son  of  Beket  and  nomarch 
of  the  gazelle-nome  (11th  Dyn.).  The  i"a(;ade  is  simple.  We  enter 
the  Rock  Chamber,  the  roof  of  whicli  was  originally  borne  by  six 
lotus-columns  with  bud- capitals,  though  only  two,  with  well- 
preserved  colouring,  are  now  standing.  The  wall-paintings  are  in 
good  condition.  Left  Wall  (N.).  In  the  top  rows  is  a  hunt  in  the 
desert,  in  the  lower  rows,  male  and  female  dancers,  the  statue  of 
the  deceased  being  borne  to  its  place,  carpenters,  etc.  Rear  Wall 
(E.).  Above  are  wrestlers  in  various  attitudes;  below,  military 
scenes,  attack  on  a  fortress.  Riuht  Wall  (8.).  From  left  to  riglit : 
the  deceased  and  his  wife;  the  deceased  accompanied  by  his  fan- 
bearer,  sandal-bearer,  two  dwarl's,  etc.;  the  <lereased  receiving  offer- 
ings (notice  the  barn  on  the  right ).  —  Farther  to  the  N.,  at  the  end 
of  an  ancient  path  ascending  from  the  plain,  is  — 

*ToMB  15,  belonging  to  Beket  (or  Baket),  noraarcli  of  the  gazelle- 
nome  (11th  Dyn.).  The  two  columns  which  supported  the  roof  of  the 
rectangular  chamber  have  been  destroyed.  In  the  S.E.  angle  is  a 
small  niche  (serdab;  p.  clxviil).  Left  Wall  (N.).  Above,  hunting  in 
the  desert;  barber,  washermen,  painters,  etc.  Below,  the  deceased 
and  his  wife,  with  four  rows  of  women  spinning  and  weaving,  female 
dancers,  girls  playing  at  ball;  herdsmen  bringing  animals  for  sacri- 
fice to  the  dead ;  goldsmiths ;  fishing ;  various  birds ,  with  their 
names  inscribed  beside  them.'  Rear  Wall  (E.).  Above,  wrestlers; 
below,  military  scenes  (resembling  those  in  Tomb  17).  Right  Wall 
(S.).  The  deceased,  in  front  of  whom,  in  several  rows,  are  men 
drawing  a  shrine  containing  a  statue  of  the  dead;  in  front  are  fe- 
male dancers  and  attendants  bearing  ornaments,  etc.,  for  the  statue; 
peasants  bringing  their  flocks  and  herds ;  peasants  forcibly  brought 
to  testify  as  to  taxes,  while  scribes  note  down  the  amounts ;  potters 
with  wheels;  men  carrying  slaughtered  birds  ;  men  gambling. 

Tomb  3  is  that  of  Khnemhotep,  the  son  of  Neheri,  a  scion  of  a 
princely  family  with  hereditary  jurisdiction  over  the  gazelle-nome 
and  over  the  E.  districts,  the  capital  of  which  was  Monet-Khufu. 
Khnemhotep  was  invested  by  King  Amenemhet  II.  with  the  latter 
districts  and  married  a  daughter  of  the  governor  of  the  dog-nome 
(Cynopolis,  p.  207),  which  was  inherited  by  a  son  of  this  marriage. 

The  Vestibule,  which  formerly  stood  behind  an  open  court,  is 
borne  by  two  sixteen-sided  columns  tapering  towards  the  top.  The 
cornice  projects  considerably  above  the  architrave  and  is  ostensibly 
supported  by  fine  laths,  hewn,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  structure,  out 
of  the  living  rock.  The  resemblance  of  these  laths  to  the  mutules 
of  the  Doric  order  is  worthy  of  mention. 


to  Assiitt.  RENIHASAN.  W.  Route.    229 

The  Main  Chamher  was  divided  by  two  pairs  of  columns  into 
three  sliglitly  vaulted  sections.  The  scenes  and  inscriptions  here 
are  mucli  fadeil  and  therefore  difficult  to  distingnish.  At  the  foot 
of  the  wall  is  a  long  inscription  cut  in  the  rock,  in  vertical  lines  of  a 
greenish  colour,  2'/2  ft.  high,  containing  the  foregoing  interesting 
excerpt  from  Egyptian  provincial  history.  In  1890  the  royal  names 
were  cut  out  of  the  rock  by  some  vandal  hand. 

Entrance  Wall  (W.).  Over  the  door  we  see  the  statue  of  the 
deceased  being  transported  to  the  temple,  preceded  by  female 
dancers  in  curious  attitudes ;  below  is  the  deceased,  watching  car- 
penters at  work.  To  the  Left  (N.)  of  the  door  is  the  estate-office  of 
the  deceased,  with  servants  weighing  silver,  measuring  grain,  and 
bringing  corn  into  the  barns,  while  scribes  seated  in  a  colonnaded 
hall  register  the  amounts.  The  next  two  rows  phow  the  operations 
of  breaking  up  the  ground,  ploughing,  harvesting,  and  threshing 
with  cattle.  In  the  fourth  row  is  a  Nile-boat,  bearing  the  mummy 
of  the  deceased  to  Abydos  (the  grave  of  Osiris;  conip.  p.  237).  In 
the  fifth  row  is  a  representation  of  the  vintage  and  of  the  gathering 
of  figs  and  growing  of  vegetables.  The  cattle  in  the  water  and  the 
fishing  scene  (at  the  foot)  depict  life  by  the  river.  —  N.  Wall  (to 
the  left  on  entering).  At  the  top  is  the  deceased  hunting  in  the 
desert.  Below,  to  the  right,  he  is  represented  on  a  large  scale  in- 
specting various  proceedings  in  his  province.  In  the  third  row  from 
the  top  two  of  his  officials  introduce  to  him  a  Caravan  of  Asiatics^ 
including  men,  women,  and  children,  clad  in  gaily-coloured  foreign 
garments  and  accompanied  by  their  goats  and  asses.  The  sharply 
cut  features,  hooked  noses,  and  pointed  beards  of  these  strangers 
unmistakably  proclaim  their  Semitic  nationality.  The  inscription 
describes  them  as  37  Amus  (f.c.  Semitic  Beduins)  bringing  eye- 
paint  to  the  governor  of  the  province.  Khnenihoteps  secretary  hands 
him  a  list  of  the  visitors.  The  lowest  rows  ilepict  the  cattle  and 
poultry  of  the  deceased.  —  Hear  Wall  (E.J.  To  the  left  the  deceased 
appears  with  his  wife  in  a  papyrus-boat,  hunting  water-fowl  with 
a  throw-stick.  All  manner  of  birds  fly  about  and  nest  in  the  thicket 
of  reeds;  in  the  water  are  fish,  a  crocodile,  and  a  hippopotamus; 
below  is  a  fishing  scene.  To  the  right  is  a  companion  picture,  show- 
ing the  deceaseil  in  a  canoe  transfixing  two  fish  with  a  double- 
pronged  spear.  In  the  centre  of  the  v  all  is  the  door  of  a  recess, 
once  containing  a  seated  figure  of  the  deceased.  Above  this  door  is 
the  deceased,  catching  birds  with  a  net. —  S.  Wall  (to  the  right).  To 
the  left  the  deceased  is  seated  at  table,  with  all  kinds  of  sacrificial 
gifts  heaped  before  him.  To  the  right  are  processions  of  servants 
and  priests  bringing  gifts  for  the  dead.  In  the  lowest  rows  are  cattle, 
gazelles,  antelopes,  and  poultry,  brought  to  be  sacrificed,  and  the 
slaughtering  and  cutting  up  of  the  sacrificial  animals.  —  Entrance 
Wall  (to  the  right,  i.e.  S.  of  the  door).  In  the  top  row  are  men  wash- 
ing; below,  potters,  men  felling  a  palm,  the  deceased  in  a  litter  in- 


280    Route  If!.  RENIHASAN.  From  Cairo 

spfif'tiiig  liis  sliip-carpenters.  In  the  third  row  arc  two  ships  carrying 
the  children,  harem,  and  dependents  of  the  deceased  to  the  funeral 
festival  at  Abydos.  In  the  fourth  row  are  women  engaged  in  spinning 
and  weaving,  and  bakers.  The  lowest  row  contains  men  constructing 
a  shrine,  a  sculptor  polishing  a  statue,  etc. 

In  front  of  Tomb  3  is  an  ancient  path  descending  to  tlie  plain, 
and  another  begins  opposite  the  adjacent  — 

*ToMB  2,  which  belonged  to  Ameni-em-het,  or  Ameni,  also  a 
nomarch  of  the  gazelle-nome  in  the  reign  of  Sesostris  I.  In  the 
Vestibule  are  two  octagonal  columns,  bearing  a  flat  vault  hewn 
out  of  the  rock.  On  the  door-posts  and  lintel  are  prayers  for  the 
dead  and  the  titles  of  Ameni.  Inside  the  door,  to  the  right  and 
left,  is  a  long  inscription  (JateA  in  the  -iBrd  year  of  Sesostris  I., 
extolling  the  deeds  of  Ameni  in  several  military  campaigns  and  the 
benefits  conferred  by  him  tipon  his  provinco. —  Four  sixteen-sided 
columns,  with  shallow  fluting  (so-called  Proto-Doric  columns, 
p.  clvii),  support  the  roof  of  the  Main  Chambee,  which  has  three 
sections.  The  wall-paintings  closely  resemble  those  in  the  tomb 
of  Khnemhotep.  On  the  Entrance  Wall,  to  the  left  (N.),  are  shoe- 
makers, carpenters,  goldsmiths,  potters,  and  other  handicraftsmen, 
and  agricultural  scenes.  Left  Wall(N.).  At  the  top,  hunting  in  the 
desert;  in  the  second  row,  transporting  the  statue  and  ceremonial 
dances;  below,  to  the  right,  the  deceased  receiving  tribute  from  his 
estates;  in  the  two  lowest  rows,  Ameni's  estate-office.  Rear  Wall. 
Wrestlers  and  military  scenes;  in  the  lower  row,  the  mummy  being 
conveyed  to  the  sacred  tomb  at  Abydos  (comp.  p.  237).  In  the  rear 
wall  opens  a  recess  containing  the  statues  (much  dilapidated)  of 
the  deceased,  his  wife  Hetpet,  and  his  mother.  Right  Wall(S.).  To 
the  left  the  deceased  is  seated  at  table  with  sacrificial  gifts  heaped 
before  him  ;  priests  and  servants  bring  food  and  other  offerings  for  the 
dead;  below,  the  slaughtering  and  cutting  up  of  sacrificial  animals. 
To  the  right  is  Hetpet,  wife  of  Ameni,  likewise  seated  at  table  and 
receiving  sacrificial  gifts. 

If  time  permit,  the  fonowing  tombs  also  should  be  visited :  Tomb  4, 
that  of  Khnemhotep,  son  of  the  Khnemhotep  buried  in  Tomb  3.  In  the 
vestibule  stands  a  Proto-Doric  column  (p.  clvii);  the  tomb -chamber  was 
unfinished.  —  Tomb  5,  with  two  pillars,  unfinished.  —  Tomb  14,  (4 Khnem- 
hotep, a  nomarch  under  Amenerabet  I.  In  the  tomb-cliamber  were  two 
plant-columns  (unfortunately  broken);  the  wall-paintings  are  interesting 
but  sadly  faded.  On  the  rear  wall  appear  soldiers  and  a  caravan  of 
I-iibyans,  with  their  wives  and  childrea  and  herds,  who  visited  the  pro- 
vince of  the  deceased  ;  the  men  are  distinguished  by  the  ostrich-feathers 
in  their  hair,  the  women  carry  their  children  in  baskets  on  their  backs. 
—  Tomb  lb,  though  unfinished,  is  interesting,  as  the  process  of  hollowing 
out  the  tomb-chamber  may  be  traced.  The  pavement  in  the  front  of  the 
chamber  is  not  fully  excavated;  and  at  the  back  are  ten  clustered  columns 
with  bud-capitals,  of  which  five  (still  unlinishedj  remain.  —  Tomb  21, 
of  Jffakht,  nomarch  of  the  gazelle-nome  under  the  12th  Dyn.,  resembles 
No.  15  (p.  228)  in  its  arrangement.  —  Tomb  23,  of  Neternakht,  nomarch  of 
the  K.  districts,  with  uninteresting  wall-paintings;  on  the  E.  wall  is  a 
Coptic   inscription.   —    Tomb  27,   of  Jiemiishenti,   nomarch    of  the    gazelle- 


^^® 


.*>,//> 


•r   .V  ' 


to  Asmit.  EL-HAWATA.  Ifi.  Route.    231 

nome.  —  Tomb  28,  with  two  lotus-columns,  was  converted  into  a  church 
in  the  Christian  period.  —  Tomb  29,  of  Beket,  noniareh  of  the  gazelle- 
iiome.  The  doors  opening  into  the  adjoining  Tombs  'c8  and  30  were  made 
hy  the  Copts.  The  wall-paintings  are  in  comparatively  good  preservation, 
but  oOer  no  novel  point  of  interest;  the  dwarfs  following  the  deceased, 
on  the  W.  half  of  the  S.  wall,  and  the  wrestling-scenes,  on  the  N.  wall, 
may  perhaps  be  mentioned.  —  Tomb  33,  of  Beket,  prince  of  the  gazelle- 
noine,  son  of  the  Beket  interred  in  No.  2!3 ;  several  wall-paintiugs.  — 
Tombs  34-39  were  left  »in(inishod. 

On  the  slope  below  the  tombs  of  the  grandees  are  numerous  smaller 
tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire  in  which  officials  and  persons  of  lower  rank 
v\ere  interred. 

We  descend  the  path  from  Toml)  2,  and  a  ride  of  8/4  hr.,  up- 
stream, by  the  edge  of  the  cultivated  ground,  brings  us  to  the 
landing-place. 


To  the  S.  of  Benihasan,  oti  the  E.  bank,  are  some  rock -tombs 
dating  from  tlie  end  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  On  the  E.  bank  the 
desert  extends  down  to  tlie  river;  on  the  W.  bank  is  the  pictur- 
esque village  of  Kalandid. 

177  M.  (W.  bank )  Roda  (rail,  station,  see  p.  209 ). 

On  the  E.  bank,  opposite  iioda,  are  the  village  ot  Sheikh  'AhCuleh 
and  the  ruins  of  Antlnoupolh  (p.  209). 

On  the  W.  bank,  1  M.  from  the  Nile,  is  the  town  of  Mellawi 
(rail,  station,  p.  210). 

Farther  on,  on  the  E.  hank,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  of  the  same 
name,  lies  Sheikh  Sti'7d,  among  palms,  with  tombs  of  the  Ancient 
Empire,  beloiiging  to  princes  and  hifjh  officials  of  the  hare-nome 
(p.  209).    The  tombs  are  clearly  seen  from  the  river. 

We  next  pass  the  ruins  of  Tell  el-'Amama,  on  the  E.  bank 
(p.  211).  —  Farther  on,  on  the  same  bank,  is  ( 193  M.)  Kl-IIdioata, 
with  an  ejitirely  destroyed  palace  of  Amenophis  IV.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  several  rock-inscriptions,  defining  the  boundaries  of 
his  holy  district  (comp.  p.  211). 

On  the  W.  bank  lies  Dcirut  (rail,  station,  p.  218).  The  boat 
passes  between  the  islands  of  (j'eziret  el-Hdioutn,  on  the  E.,  and 
Ueziret  el-Manddra,  on  the  W.  The  arm  of  tlie  Nile  known  as  the  Bahr 
ywsu/" (Joseph's  Canal;  p.  190)  here  diverges  from  the  Ibrahimiyeh 
Canal  (p.  232)  on  the  W.  bank. 

The  Arabian  Mts.,  rising  in  precipitous  rocky  walls,  approach 
the  river.  Swallows,  ducks,  and  other  birds  inhabit  the  oaves  in 
the  porous  rock  on  the  banks  and  fly  in  and  out  in  screaming 
crowds.  The  clifl's  on  the  right  bank  of  this  part  of  the  Nile  are 
known  as  Gebel  Abu  Fdda.  Violent  winds  and  numerous  sand- 
banks frequently  render  the  navigation  of  this  part  of  the  Nile 
difficult  and  dangerous.  On  the  E.  bank  is  the  Coptic  convent  of 
J)eir  el-Koseir.,  near  which  are  some  ancient  rock-tombs  I  p.  218). 

On  the  W.  bank,  3  M.  from  the  river,  lies  El-Ku.fiyeh  (p.  218). 
—  220  M.  Manfaltlt  (rail,  station,  p.  21S)  lies  on  tiie'w.  bank  close 

r.AKDKKKR's    I'lgyjlt.      "til    lOdit  J5 


232    Route  16.  ASSIUT, 

to  the  river,  which  must  have  made  great  encroachments  here  since 
the  end  of  the  18th  century.  Between  Manfalut  and  Assist  (27  M. 
by  river,  only  17  M.  hy  land)  the  Nile  makes  many  curves. 

We  next  observe  ShikelkU,  on  the  E.  bank,  II/4  M.  to  the  S.  of 
El-Ma'abdeh  (p.  219),  El-Hawatkeh,  a  pretty  village  among  palms, 
on  the  W.  bank,  and  Beni  Moharruned,  on  the  E.  bank.  The 
mountains  to  the  N.  (E.  bank)  recede  farther  and  fartlier  from  the 
river,  leaving  a  broad  strip  of  fertile  land  at  their  feet.  Close  to  the 
mountains  lie  'Arab  el-'Atiycit  and  Deir  el-Guhrdwi  (p.  219). 

Above  Jieiii  Mohammed  the  Nile  makes  several  great  bends  and 
is  divided  into  tvfo  arms  by  the  large  island  Qeztret  Being.  On  the 
E.  arm  lies  ( 233  M.)  Ebniib  (Abnub),  a  district-capital,  with  6878  in- 
hab.  (4291  Copts)  and  fine  palm-groves. 

The  foot-hills  of  the  Libyan  chain  on  the  W.  bank  approach  the 
river,  which  is  here,  near  the  village  oi  El-Waladiyeh[WaUdia;  W. 
bank),  bridled  by  the  Assiut  Barrage,  an  imposing  work  intended 
to  regulate  the  amount  of  water  in  the  Ibrahimiyeh  Canal  which 
irrigates  the  provinces  of  Assiut,  Minyeh,  Benisneif,  and  Gizeh, 
and  (through  the  Babr  Yusuf,  see  p.  231)  the  Faiyum.  The  bar- 
rage, which  is  910  yds.  long  and  41  ft.  high,  was  constructed  in 
1898-1902  by  Aird  &  Co.  (p.  372)  from  the  original  design  of  Sir 
W.  Willcocks  and  plans  by  Sir  Benjamin  Baker  (d.  1907)  and  Sir 
W.  Garstin.  It  consists  of  thirteen  sections,  the  first  of  which  (W.) 
has  three  arches  and  a  lock,  while  the  others  have  nine  arches 
each.  Each  opening  (111  in  all)  can  be  shut  by  an  iron  door.  The 
barrage  Is  crossed  by  a  carriage-road.  —  Immediately  above  the 
barrage,  on  the  W.  bank,  are  the  regulation-works  (a  bridge  with 
nine  arches  and  a  lock)  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ihrdhhnlyeh  Canal,  the 
S.  prolongation  of  the  Bahr  Yusuf  (p.  231).  Close  by  are  the  neat 
houses  and  pretty  gardens  of  the  officials. 

We  land  at  (247  M.)  El-Hamra,  the  palm-enclosed  harbour  of 
Assiut. 

Assitt. 

The  tourist-steamers  spend  J/j  day  here.  —  Railway  Station,  see  p.  219. 

Hotel.  New  Hotel,  beyond  the  stalion,  R.  12-15  pias.,  fair.  —  Post 
Office  in  the  main  street.  Telegeaph  Office  at  the  station.  —  Steamboat 
Agencies,  on  the  Nile.  —  Agency  of  the  National  Bank  op  Egypt  in  the 
old  town. 

Carriage  to  the  Barrage  (see  above)  and  the  Rock  Tombs  (p.  234),  in 
ca.  3  hrs.,  15  pias.  —  Donkey  for  each  excursion,  4  pias.  and  1  pias.  fee. 
The  drivers  and  donkey-boys  generally  speak  English. 

Consular  Agents.  The  American  con.'stilar  agent  is  Qeorge  Wissa  Bey. 
one  of  the  leading  inhabitants  of  the  town,  residing  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
near  El-IIamra.  There  are  al.-io  French,  German,  Italian,  Dutch,  Russian, 
and  Au.stria-Hungarian  con.sular  officers.  —  Hospital  of  the  American  Mission 
(see  p.  233),  with  130  beds  and  four  American  physicians ;  Government  Oph- 
thalmic Hospital,  near  the  river. 

Pottevy,  Tulle  Shawls  (see  p.  233),  and  other  Oriental  Goods  may  be  obtained 
in  the  bazaars  at  lower  prices  than  at  Cairo.    European  goods  are  dearer. 


ASSIUT.  16.  Route.   233 

Assiut  or  Siut,  the  name  of  which  still  preserves  the  ancient 
Egyptian  Syout,  enjoyed  oonsideiable  importance,  even  in  anti- 
quity, chiefly  owing  to  its  favouralilc  situation  in  the  midst  of  an  ex- 
tensive ami  fertile  plain,  I21/2  M.  in  width,  between  the  Libyan  and 
the  Arabian  mountains,  and  at  the  beginning  of  a  great  caravan  route 
leading  to  the  oases  in  the  Libyan  desert  (R.  26)  and  thence  to  the 
Sfldan.  Assiut,  however,  seems  to  have  been  of  little  prominence 
politically.  The  town  was  the  capital  of  the  Upper  Sycamore  Nome 
and  the  chief  seat  of  the  worship  of  the  god  Wep-wairet,  who  was 
represented  as  a  wolf  of  the  desert.  This  latter  circumstance  gave 
rise  to  the  Greek  name  Lycopolis,  or  'wolf  town'.  The  modern 
Assiut,  which  exteiids  for  about  3  M.  from  E.  to  W.,  is  the  largest 
town  (39,442  inhab.,  exclusive  of  46(54  in  Ll-l:lamra|  in  Upper 
Egypt,  the  capital  of  a  province  (768sq.  M.;  pop.,  including  the 
oases  of  Dakhleh  and  Khargeh,  903,335),  and  the  residence  of  the 
Mudir.  Its  manufacturing  industry  is  not  UTiimportant.  Among  the 
chief  produits  are  fine  red  glazed  pottery  (bottles,  pipe-bowls,  etc.), 
inlaid  wood  (tables,  caskets,  walking-sticks),  ivory  carvings,  em- 
broidereil  leatlier  goods,  and  tjie  white  and  black  tulle  shawls,  with 
gold  or  silver  embroidery,  which  are  so  oftt-Ti  bought  by  European 
ladies.  Natron,  soda,  and  grain  are  also  among  the  principal  exports. 
The  streets  and  bazaars  are  full  of  busy  life,  especially  on  Tuesdays, 
when  the  people  of  the  neighbourhood  Hock  into  the  market.  — 
Assiut  is  OTie  of  tlie  chief  seats  of  the  American  Presbyterian  Mission, 
which  has  in  Egypt  273  stations,  197  schools,  and  85  churches.  Its 
training-college  iiere  (principal,  Prof.  11.  S.  McClenahan),  attended 
by  700  boys  ami  300  girls,  deserves  a  visit. 

Ploiinus,  the  -reatest  of  the  Neo-Platonic  i)hilosoi>hcr.s  (20r>'J70  A.  D.), 
was  born  here,  and  hia  system  was  not  uninlluenced  by  the  priestly 
iloctrines  of  his  native,  town.  From  the  beginning  of  the  4th  cent,  on- 
wards Christianity  was  dominant  in  the  town  and  nei^libourhood.  Pious 
believers  took  refuge  in  the  caves  of  the  necropolis  to  live  a  life  of 
penitence  apart  from  the  world.  One  of  these,  John  of  Lycopolis.,  at  the 
end  of  the  4th  cent.,  bore  the  reputation  of  a  saint  and  even  of  a  prophet. 
The  Roman  emperor  Theodnsius  sent  an  embassy  to  him  to  inquire  the 
outcome  of  the  civil  war.  The  anchorite  foretold  a  complete  but  bloody 
victory,  and  this  prophecy  was  fulfilled  in  the  victory  of  Theodosius  over 
Eugenius  at  Aquileia  in  304  A. O. 

From  the  landing-place  at  El-Hamra  (p.  232)  we  skirt  the 
river  upstream  and  then  follow  the  main  street  diverging  to  the  W. 
at  the  mudiriyeh.  Beyond  the  (V2  ^I-)  railway  station  is  the  post- 
offlce  (left).  A  street  to  the  right  leads  to  the  old  town  with  its 
picturesque  bazaars,  sotne  of  which  are  still  covered.  Here  are  the 
College  des  Frcres,  the  American  Mission  Hospital  (p.  232),  the 
Wissa  Charitable  Secomlary  School  for  boys  (600  pupils),  and  a 
government  school.  The  more  prosperous  native  families  live  in 
the  quarter  of  Alenshiyeh.  —  The  main  street,  issuing  from  the 
town  'in  a  S.W.  direction,  is  continued  by  a  causeway  leading 
through   cultivated  land  and  across  the  Soliagiyeh  Canal  to  the  — 

15* 


234    Route  16.  ASSIST. 

'Rock  Tombs  of  Ancient  Assist.  We  dismount  at  tlie  slaugliter- 
liouse,  near  which  the  keeper  of  the  tombs  lives,  and  follow  a  steep 
path  leading  to  a  — 

Large  Rock  Tomb,  which  belonged  to  Hap-zefai,  prince  of  the 
nome  in  the  reign  of  Sesostris  I.  The  Arahs  call  it  IHabl  'Antar, 
or  the  stable  of  Antar,  a  hero  of  tradition  (comp.  p.  227 ). 

Entering  the  tomb  we  first  find  ourselves  in  a  vaulted  Passage,  on 
the  right  wall  of  which  is  the  deceased,  with  a  long  and  now  scarcely 
legible  inscription  in  front  of  liim.  A  doorway,  on  each  side  of  which 
is  a  figure  of  the  deceased  holding  a  stall',  leads  hence  to  the  wide  Main 
Chamber,  which  has  a  finely  decorated  ceiling.  On  the  right  halt  of  the 
Entrance  Wall  is  a  long  inscription  containing  the  text  of  ten  contracts 
concluded  between  the  deceased  and  various  priesthoods  of  his  native 
city  to  secure  the  proper  sacrificial  offerings  to  himself  and  to  his  statues, 
and  to  provide  for  the  performance  of  other  ceremonies.  The  corresponding 
inscription  on  the  left  side  of  the  same  wall  contains  addresses  to  visitors 
to  the  tomb  and  an  account  of  the  merits  of  the  deceased.  A  door  between 
two  recesses  in  the  re:ir  wall  admits  us  to  a  second  vaulted  passage,  leading 
to  a  Second  Room  wilh  three  recesses.  On  the  rear  wall  of  the  central 
recess  appeared  the  deceased,  four  women  with  lotus-flowers  standing  be- 
fore him;  on  the  side-walls  he  is  shown  at  table,  while  three  rows  of 
priests  and  servants  bring  gifts  to  him  or  perform  sacred  ceremonies. 
The  left  recess  leads  to  the  mummy-shaft. 

The  *View  from  this  tomh  is  very  fine.  The  fertile  land  and 
the  Nile,  enclosed  by  the  limestone  hills  of  Libya  on  the  W.  and  the 
Arabian  mountains  in  the  distance  to  the  E.,  form  a  quiet  but  by  no 
means  monotonous  setting  for  the  beautiful  town  of  Assiut,  with  its 
minarets  and  its  environment  of  palm-gardens.  The  view  is  still 
grander  from  the  higher  tombs.  Here  there  is  a  row  of  three  tombs 
close  to  each  other,  dating  from  the  obscure  period  before  theMiddle 
Empire.    The  northernmost  has  been  destroyed. 

The  second  is  the  Kahf  el- Anakir,  or  Soldiers'  Tomb,  so  named 
from  the  rows  of  warriors  armed  with  spears  and  large  shields  on 
its  S.  wall.  On  the  right  side  of  the  vestibule  appear  Kheti^  the 
owner  of  the  tomb,  and  his  wife  Tef-yeh,  with  a  long  and  partly 
effaced  inscription,  referring  to  the  otherwise  little-known  King 
Meri-ke-re  of  Heracleopolis  (9th  Dyn.).  Only  a  single  column  is  left 
standing  in  the  main  chamber,  in  the  rear  wall  of  which  is  a  recess 
for  the  statues  of  the  deceased.  —  A  passage  has  been  made  from 
this  tomb  to  that  adjoining  it  on  the  S.,  which  belonged  to  Tef- 
yeb.  a  prince  of  the  nome. 

A  large  *Arab  Cemetery  stretches  across  the  plain  to  the  N.  of 
the  hill  of  tombs,  with  hundreds  of  domed  tombs  among  its  palms. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  behind  the  slaughter-house,  is  the  tomb_  of 
another  Bap-zefai^  unfortunately  much  destroyed.  It  contains  some  ceiling 
ornaments   and   tasteful  paintings  of  harvest-scenes,  etc.,    upon  stucco. 

About  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  rock-tombs,  on  the  slope  of  the  Libyan 
Mts.,  is  the  village  of  Dronkeh,  and  2  N.  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  Coptic 
convent  of  Ed-Deir  (Deir  Jiifeh),  near  which  are  several  t<jmbs  of  the 
Middle  and  New  Empires.  These  belong  to  princes  and  grandees  of  the 
neighbouring  town  of  Shes-hotep  (p.  235l,  but  beyond  some  inscriptions 
contain  nothing  of  interest.  —  About  472  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Assiut,  on  the 
railway   to  Upper  Egyiit,  lies   the  village   of  Sholh  (Chalh),    tlie  kgyptian 


KAU  EL-KEBIU.  17.  lioute.    235 

Shc^-hotep   ;ni(l    (he   Greek  Ilypselis,   capital    of  the  Hypselite   nome.     The 
i-liief  deity  here  vvas  the  ram-headed  Khnuui  (necropolis,  sec  p.  234). 

An  attractive  road  descends  the  river  from  the  steamboat  landing- 
place  and  crosses  the  lock-bridge  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Ibrahimfyeh 
Canal  to  the  Barrage  (p.  232).  To  the  right  is  a  public  garden,  to 
the  left  are  the  handsome  buildings  of  the  new  American  school 
and  (beyond  the  canal)  the  prison. 


17.  From  Assiut  to  Girgeh  and  Baliana  (Abydos) 
by  the  Nile. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  231. 
99  Jf.    Tlie  (onrist-stcamers  lay  up  for  the  night  at  Solidg  and  in  ascend- 
ing the  river  pass  Baliana  without  stopping. 

A^siul,  see  p.  232.  The  voyage  to  Akhmim  leads  through  an  ex- 
tremely fertile  and  well-cultivated  district.  Well-tilled  fields,  broader 
on  the  W.  than  on  the  E.,  adjoin  both  banks  of  the  river,  and  are 
shaded  by  fine  palms  and  Nile  acacias,  especially  near  the  villages. 
Here,  as  in  most  of  Egypt,  large  quantities  of  pigeons  are  kept  by 
the  peasants,  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  their  droppings,  which  form  a 
valuable  manure  (comp.  p.  Ixxi),  the  dung  of  the  cattle  being  dried 
and  used  as  fuel.  Lar»e  pigeon-houses,  not  unlike  forts  or  pylons, 
and  built  of  unbaked  bricks,  clay,  and  pottery,  are  visible  in  all 
the  villages  of  Upper  Egypt.  Most  of  the  pigeons  are  of  the  common 
grey  species  and  attain  a  considerable  size,  but  many  pretty  little 
reddish-grey  turtle-doves  are  seen  also.  The  pigeons  really  consume 
more  than  they  produce,  so  that  their  encouragement  by  the  fellahin 
is  rijihtly  regarded  as  a  serious  mistake  in  their  husbandry. 

Nearly  opposite  Assiut  lies  the  village  oi  El-Wasta.  On  the  PL 
bank  the  next  villages  are  VA-Bosra.  near  the  Coptic  convent  De'ir 
Bosra,  and  EL-Ohorayeh,  to  the  E.  of  which,  in  the  Gebel  Rekhdm, 
is  an  alabaster  quarry.  On  the  W.  bank  are  Esh-Shayhbeh  and  El- 
Mati'a  (rail,  station,  p.  219). 

15  M.  (W.  blink)  Abu  Tig  or  Butly  (rail,  station,  p.  219),  witii 
a  small  harbour  filled  with  Nile-boats. 

Near  the  E.  bank  is  El-Baddri,  a  district-capital  with  9255  in- 
hab.;  on  the  W.  bank  follow  the  railway  stations  of  (21  M.)  Sedfa. 
(^1^12  M.)  Terna,  and  Mishta  (p:219).  Opposite  Tema,  on  the 
E.  bank,  beyond  the  Khizandariyeh  Canal  (p.  236),  is  the  village 
of  Hamairuyeli,  with  rock-tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire;  V2  hr.  to 
the  S.,  on  the  hill-slope,  lies  the  large  Tiecrcpolis  of  Antaeopolis 
(p.  236),  containing  rock-tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire  and  of  later 
periods.    Not  far  off  are  quarries  with  demotic  inscriptions. 

SIM. /r«u(?/iar6(W.  bank)  is  opposite  KauoT  Kduel-Kebir,  which 
lies  in  the  fertili^  plain  on  the  E.  bank.  The  name  Kdu  recalls  the 
ancient  Egyptian  name  of  the  town  Tu-Kow  (Coptic  Tkow)-^   the 


236    Route  17.  GEBEL  t6kU. 

(ireeks  named  it  Antaeopolis,  after  Antseus  wLoni  they  identified 
with  the  deity  worshipped  here  (necropolis,  see  p.  235). 

According  to  the  myth,  Antseus  wa<!  a  Libyan  king  ofimmense  strength, 
who  was  in  the  habit  of  wrestling  with  all  visitors  to  his  dominions  and 
of  slaying  those  whom  he  vanquished,  in  order  to  build  a  temple  to  his 
fatlier  Poseidon  with  their  skulls.  Hercules  came  to  try  cimclusions  with 
him  and,  after  overthrowing  him  in  a  wrestling-match,  slew  him.  —  Ac- 
cording to  Diodorus  the  tinal  struggle  betwixt  Horus  and  Typhon  (Seth)  took 
place  here  (comp.  p.  343).  In  tlie  Roman  period  Antfeopolis  was  the  capital  of 
the  Anta'opolitan  nome.  The  la''t  remains  of  an  imposing  temple,  dedicated 
here  by  Ptolemy  Philometor  to  Antsens  and  restored  by  Marcus  Aurelius 
and  his  colleague  Verus  (164  A.D.),  were  swept  away  by  the  Nile  in  1821.  — 
In  a  deep  grotto  like  quarry  in  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  hill  behind  Kau  are 
two  pillars  bearing  two  remarkable  paintings  of  the  god  Antseus  and  the 
goddess  Nephthys. 

On  the  E.  bank  is  seen  the  look-bridge  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Khizandarlyeh  Canal.  The  hills  of  the  Gebel  Sheikh  el-Harldi^  with 
ancient  quarries  and  inscriptions  hewn  in  the  rock,  approach  close 
to  the  river. 

38t/2  M.  Sdhel,  on  the  W.  bank,  with  7465  inhab.,  is  the  station 
for  the  town  of  Tahta  (p.  219),  situated  2  M.  inland. 

The  next  steamboat  and  railway  stations  are  (46  M.)  El-Mnrdgha 
and  (531/2  M.^  Shenddwln  ( Chandawil),  both  on  the  W.  bank  (comp. 
p.  219).  —  On  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  which  here  forms  several 
islands,  are  some  grottoes  without  inscriptions. 

63  M.  ( W,  bank)  Sohag  (Souhay),  a  provincial  capital  and 
railway  station  (p.  219).  —  The  Nile  makes  a  wide  bond  towards 
tlie  N.E.    On  the  E.  bank  lies  Akhmtm,  see  p.  220. 

We  next  see,  close  to  the  E.  bank,  the  conspicuous  convent- 
village  of  Deir  el-Hadld,  resembling  a  fortress.  About  100  men, 
women,  and  children  occupy  tlie  convent.  The  church  is  lighted  by 
windows  in  the  cupolas. 

77  M.  (W.  bank)  El-Menshlyeh,  a  railway  station  (p.  221). 

Beside  the  village  of  El-Ahdhveh,  on  the  E.  bank,  are  burial 
places  of  the  prehistoric  period  and  the  New  Empire.  On  the  hill, 
close  to  a  sheikh's  tomb,  are  the  ruins  of  an  Egyptian  brick  fortress. 
—  On  the  "W.  bank  is  the  village  of  El-Ahaiweh  el-Gharbtyeh. 

The  Oebel  Tukh,  on  the  Arabian  bank,  approaches  close  to  the 
stream,  about  3  M.  below  El-Menshiyeh.  Extensive  quarries  (with 
Greek ,  Latin ,  and  demotic  inscriptions)  exist  here,  especially 
nesiT  Sheikh  Musa ;  these  yielded  building -material  for  Ptolemai's 
(p.  221).  —  Where  the  mountains  recede  a  little,  opposite  Girgeh, 
lie  the  villages  of  Deir  el-Meldk  and  ISag'  ed-Deir  (p.  221).  At  a 
lock-bridge  on  the  W.  bank  diverges  the  Oirgawlyeh  Canal,  which 
joins  the'Sohagiyeh  Canal  at  Sohag. 

89  M.  (W.  bank)  Girgeh  (Guerya),  a  railway  station  (p.  221). 

On  the  E.  bank  expands  a  fertile  plain  with  numerous  water- 
raising  machines.  —  99  M.  Baliaua,  on  the  W.  bank,  with  a  rail- 
way station  (p.  221),  is  the  starting  point  for  the  interesting  visit  to 
Abydos, 


237 


18.  Abydos. 


TIio  nrdinary  traveller,  with  the  average  amount  of  time  at  his  dis- 
posal, will  ciinline  himself  to  the  Temple  of  SeChos  J.  and  the  sadly  dilapid- 
ated Temple  of  Ramses  II.,  with  possibly  a  visit  to  the  tomb  of  SMlnel 
ez-Zebib.  —  Good  donkey?,  with  European  saddles,  may  be  obtained  at  the 
railway  station  and  hotel  of  Baliana  (p.  221;  15  nias.,  with  bakshish  of 
5  pjas.)-     Carriage  there  and  back,  with  stay  of  2  hrs.,  £E  I. 

Abydos  lies  about  6'/2  M.  I'rom  Baliana,  a  ride  of  I-IV4  hr. 
Tlie  track  crosses  the  railway  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  station  and 
follows  the  telegraph-wires  along  an  embankment.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  El-Hegz  it  crosses  a  canal,  traverses  a  fertile  district  dot- 
ted with  numerous  villages,  and  reaches  the  village  (2400  inhab.)  of 
El-'Ardba  oi'Araba  el-Madfuneh  (i.e.  'buried 'Araba'),  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Kasreh  Canal.  The  view  of  the  well-cultivated  and  popu- 
lous plain,  and  of  the  mountains  to  the  E.,  is  very  fine.  On  the 
verge  of  the  arable  land  lay  the  ancient  Abydos,  which  extended 
from  'Araba  to  El-Kherbeh  (p.  243). 

Abydos  (Egypt.  Abotu)  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in 
Egypt  and  played  an  important  role  under  the  first  dynasty  as  the 
burial-place  of  the  kings  and  grandees.  The  town  and  its  necropolis 
were  both  devoted  to  the  worship  of  the  dog -formed  death -god 
Khente-Amentiu,  'the  first  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  "Western  King- 
dom'. Even  under  the  Ancient  Empire,  however,  the  cult  of  Osiris 
(which  originated  in  the  Delta)  made  good  its  footing  at  Abydos. 
Osiris  took  possession  of  the  ancient  temple  and  was  raised  to  an 
equality  with  Khente-Amentiu.  The  tomb  of  Osiris  was  transferred 
to  Umm  el-Ga'^ab,  and  in  the  days  of  the  6th  Dynasty  it  became 
usual  to  inter  the  dead  from  all  parts  of  Egypt  at  Abydos.  Just  as 
the  Shiite  Mohammedan  cherishes  no  dearer  wish  than  to  be  buried 
near  the  tomb  of  Hosein  (p.  54)  at  Kerbela,  so  the  pious  Egyptian 
desired  no  better  fortune  than  to  have  his  corpse  carried  to  Abydos, 
there  to  find  its  last  abode  beside  the  tomb  of  Osiris.  Those  who 
were  unable  to  do  this,  or  who  had  built  tombs  elsewhere,  often 
caused  their  mummies  to  be  brought  temporarily  to  Abydos,  to  re- 
ceive the  desired  consecration  and  to  spend  some  time  at  least 
with  Osiris.  Many  contented  themselves  with  merely  erecting  a 
memorial  stone  or  a  cenotaph  in  the  necropolis,  thereby  assuring 
to  themselves  the  favour  of  Osiris,  the  lord  of  the  underworld.  — 
Isis,  the  wife  of  Osiris,  his  son  Ilorus,  and,  under  the  New  Empire, 
Ptah,  Harakhte,  and  Anion  were  likewise  worshipped  there. 

Strabo  gives  an  inlen'Stiti'^  .iccoiint  of  Abydos:  'Above  it  (Ptolemai's) 
lies  Abydos,  the  site  of  i\\t  Meinnonium,  a  wonderful  |ialace  of  stone,  built 
in  the  manner  of  the  Labyrinth  (i>.  195),  only  somewhat  less  elaborate  in  its 
complexity.  Below  the  Jlemnonium  is  a  spring,  reached  by  passages  with 
low  vaults  consisting  of  a  sini^le  stone  and  remarkable  for  their  e.xtent 
and  mode  of  construction.  This  spring  is  connected  with  the  Nile  by  a 
canal,  which  tlows  through  a  grove  of  Kgyptian  thorn-acacias,  sacred 
to  Apollo.  Abydos  seems  once  to  have  been  a  large  city,  second  only  to 
Thebes,  but  now  it  is  a  small  place.'  This  spring  may  perhaps  have  been 
a  nilometer.  Ammianus  Marcellinus  speaks  of  the  oracle  of  the  god  Bes, 
which  flourished  here. 


238    Route  IS.  ABYDOS.  Temple 

The  most  important  part  of  ancient  Abydos  was  its  extensive 
Necropolis,  situated  in  the  desert.  Four  distinct  sections  are  clearly 
traceable.  In  the  southernmost,  beside  El-'Araba  (p.  237),  are  tombs 
of  the  New  Empire  and  the  temples  of  Sethos  and  IJamses.  To  the 
N.  of  this  rises  a  hill,  with  graves  dating  from  the  close  of  the  An- 
cient Empire.  Still  farther  to  the  N.,  between  the  sanctuary  of  Osiris 
(Kom  es-Sultan)  and  the  tomb  of  Shunet  ez-Zebib  (p.  243),  are 
the  tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire,  many  in  the  form  of  small  brick 
pyramids.  Here  are  found  also  graves  of  the  18-20th  Dyn.  and  of 
the  later  period.  Finally,  in  the  hill  of  Umm  el-Ga'ab  (p.  243),  to 
the  W.,  are  the  tombs  of  the  kings  of  the  earliest  dynasties  and 
the  sacred  grave  of  Osiris.  —  The  chief  centre  of  interest  is  the  — 

*Temple  of  Sethos  I.,  the  Memnonium  of  Strabo.  This  won- 
derful structure,  built  by  Sethos  I.  and  completed  by  Ramses  II.,  was 
almost  completely  excavated  in  1859  by  Mariette,  at  the  expense 
of  the  viceroy  Sa'id.  The  walls  consist  of  fine-grained  limestone, 
while  a  harder  variety  has  been  selected  for  the  columns,  archi- 
traves, door-posts,  and  other  burden-bearing  portions.  The  Beliefs 
dating  from  the  reign  of  Sethos  I.  are  among  the  finest  productions 
of  Egyptian  sculpture  of  any  age. 

The  ground -plan  diiTers  materially  from  that  of  other  great 
Egyptian  temples.  Instead  of  one  sanctuary  it  has  seven,  dedicated 
to  Osiris,  Isis,  Horus,  Ptah,  Harakhte,  Amon,  and  the  deified 
king;  and  as  each  of  these  had  a  special  cult  the  entire  front  por- 
tion of  the  temple  is  divided  into  seven  parts,  each  with  its  separate 
gateway  and  portals.  The  chambers  behind  the  sanctuaries  are  not 
arranged  behind  each  other  as  in  other  temples,  but  side  by  side. 
Another  remarkable  peculiarity  consists  in  the  wing  (p.  241)  con- 
taining various  halls,  chambers,  etc.,  which  stands  at  right  angles 
to  the  main  building  (comp.  p.  clxvi). 

We  enter  the  temple  from  the  N.E.  The  first  pylon  is  in  ruins 
and  the  first  coxirt  is  still  occupied  by  modern  huts. 

The  Second  Court,  whicb  opens  to  the  S.  on  the  temple  proper, 
is  in  better  preservation.  The  sons  and  daughters  of  Ramses  II. 
were  represented  oti  the  wall  on  the  inner  side  of  the  pylon,  but 
the  figures  and  inscriptions  have  been  almost  effaced.  On  the  right 
and  left  walls  appears  Ramses  II.,  sacrificing  to  different  gods;  on 
each  side  are  steles  of  Ramses  II.  At  the  back  of  the  court  a 
low  incline  ascends  to  the  vestibule  of  the  temple  proper,  which 
is  supported  by  12  square  piers  of  limestone  and  originally  had 
seven  doors  in  its  rear  wall.  On  the  wall,  to  the  left  of  the  main 
entrance,  is  a  Large  Inscription  in  95  vertical  lines,  in  which 
Ramses  II.  describes  in  florid  language  the  completion  of  the  temple. 
In  the  adjoining  relief  Ramses  is  shown  presenting  an  image  of  the 
goddess  Maat  to  a  triad  consisting  of  Osiris,  Isis,  and  his  father 
Sethos  I.,  who  takes  the  place  of  Horus.  On  the  wall  are  other 
representations  of  Ramses  in  presence  of  the  gods.  —  The  seven 


Engraved  iSjTiiitedlij- 


ofSelhnsl.  ABYDO?>.  18.  Route.    239 

original  doors  corresponded  to  the  seven  sanctuaries  of  tbe  temple. 
Processions  in  honour  of  the  king  seem  to  have  entered  by  the  door 
to  the  extreme  left;  the  next  served  for  processions  to  Ptali,  the  third 
for  Harakhte,  the  fourth  for  Amon,  the  fifth  for  Osiris,  the  sixth 
for  Isis,  and  the  seventh  for  Ilorus.  Ramses,  however,  walled  vip 
six  of  these  doors,  leaving  the  central  one  alone  as  the  main  entrance 
to  the  temple. 

The  present  entrance  is  by  the  ancient  main  door.  We  first 
enter  the  First  Hypostyle  Hall,  which  is  about  57  yds.  wide  by 
12  deep.  The  roof,  part  of  which  has  fallen  in,  is  supported  by 
24  clustered  papyrus-columns,  with  bud-capitals.  The  columns 
arc  so  arrans^ed  that  two  pairs  stand  on  each  side  of  the  five  central 
processional  aisles,  while  the  two  outermost  aisles  are  each  flanked 
on  one  side  by  the  walls  of  the  temple.  The  representations  on  the 
shafts  of  the  columns  represent  the  king  before  the  deity  to  whom 
the  aisle  led,  sometimes  accompanied  by  the  other  deities  of  his 
triad.  Thus  in  the  Amon  aisle  we  see  Ramses  11.  before  Amon, 
Mut,  and  Khons;  in  the  Ptah  aisle,  the  king  before  Ptah,  Sekhmet 
(Hathor),  and  Nefertem.  The  sculptures  (reliefs  'en  creux')  are 
of  mediorre  workmanship;  they  date  from  Ramses  II.,  who  here 
forgot  his  filial  piety  so  far  as  to  chisel  away  his  father's  reliefs  to 
make  room  for  his  own.  The  only  interesting  Mural  Rbpkesenta- 
TioNs  arc  those  in  the  lower  row  on  the  end-wall  to  the  right.  To 
the  right  Thout  and  Horus  pour  over  Ramses  II.  the  holy  water  in 
the  form  of  the  hieroglyphics  for  'purity'  and  'life';  to  the  left 
Wepwawet,  with  a  wolfs  head,  and  Horus,  with  a  falcon's  head, 
'the  avenger  of  liis  father',  hold  the  hieroglyphic  for  'life'  to  the 
king's  nose  close  by,  to  the  right,  is  Hathor  of  Dendera;  farther 
to  the  left,  Ramses  hands  to  Osiris  and  his  companions,  Isis  and 
Horus,  a  case  for  papyrus-rolls  in  the  shape  of  a  column  held  by 
a  kneeling  king,  with  a  falcon's  head  on  the  top  as  a  lid. 

Seven  doors,  placed  in  the  axes  of  the  built-up  entrance-doors 
and  the  sanctuaries,  lead  from  this  first  hall  into  the  Second  Hypo- 
style  Hall.  The  architrave,  on  which  rest  the  roofing  slabs,  is  sup- 
ported by  30  columns,  arranged  on  either  side  of  the  processional 
aisles  in  pairs  on  the  same  system  as  in  the  preceding  hall.  The 
24  columns  in  the  first  two  rows  of  columns  have  papyrus -bud 
capitals.  Beyond  the  second  row  the  floor  of  the  temple  is  con- 
siderably raised,  forming  a  platform  upon  which  stands  the  third 
row  of  columns.  These  are  tree-trunk  columns  (p.  clviii),  with 
cylindrical  shafts  and  no  capitals,  on  which  rest  stone  slabs  form- 
ing an  abacus  for  the  support  of  the  architrave.  The  inscrip- 
tions and  representations  on  the  walls  and  columns  date  from  the 
reign  of  Sethos  and  are  of  admirable  workmanship,  but  their  subjects 
are  of  little  general  interest.  The  wonderful  '^Reliefs  on  the  right  end 
of  the  hall  (PI.  b]  should  not  be  overlookcil.  Here,  to  the  right,  we 
see  iScthos  I.  standing  before  Osiris  and  Horus,  holding  a  censer  and 


240    RotUe  18.  AI5VD0S.  Temple 

pouring  water  from  three  vases  embellished  with  flowers.  In  the 
next  scene  the  king  with  the  censer  appears  before  a  shrine  in  the 
midst  of  which  Osiris  is  enthroned;  in  front  of  the  god  stand  Maat 
and  Konpet  (goddess  of  the  year)  and  behind  are  Isis,  Amentet  (god- 
dess of  the  West),  and  Nephthys,  with  nine  small  gods  of  the  dead 
in  the  background.  On  Pier  c  is  a  representation  of  the  highly  ad- 
orned sacred  post  Tet,  the  symbol  of  Osiris  of  Busiris  (p.  cli),  to  the 
right  and  left  of  which  stands  the  king,  wearing  the  crown  of  Lower 
Egypt  (comp.  the  representation  on  the  pier  in  the  S.  wall,  PI.  d). 
To  the  left  of  Pier  e  the  king  presents  an  image  of  Maat  to  Osiris, 
Isis,  and  Horus.  The  kings  profile  is  evidently  a  faithful  likeness 
and  is  everywhere  portrayed  with  great  artistic  skill. 

Adjoining  this  hall,  in  a  direct  line  with  the  seven  entrance 
doors,  are  Seven  Sanctuaries,  of  which  that  in  the  middle  was 
dedicated  to  Amon,  the  chief  deity  under  the  New  Empire.  To 
the  right  are  the  sanctuaries  of  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Horus ;  to  the  left 
those  of  Harakhte,  Ptah,  and  the  king.  Each  contained  the  sacred 
boat  of  its  god  and  was  shut  off  by  a  folding  door.  The  central  chapel 
was  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  the  others  by  inclined  planes. 
The  roofs  of  these  chapels  are  not  vaulted  in  the  strict  architec- 
tural signification  of  that  word;  they  are  formed  of  two  horizontal 
courses,  each  projecting  over  the  one  below,  and  rounded  off  by  the 
chisel  to  the  form  of  an  arch.  The  vaults  are  decorated  with  stars 
and  the  names  of  Sethos  I.,  while  the  walls  are  covered  with  reliefs, 
illustrating  the  ceremonies  that  took  place  in  the  sanctuaries.  The 
colouring  is  in  excellent  preservation.  In  the  piers  separating  the 
doors  are  square  recesses,  which  are  likewise  adorned  with  reliefs. 

Those  who  desire  to  examine  more  particularly  the  sanctuaries  and 
shrines  should  begin  with  the  King's  Sanctuaet,  to  the  left.  Left  Wall. 
Lower  row  (from  left  to  right):  three  dog-headed  gods  and  three  falcon- 
headed  gods  bear  the  king  into  the  sanctuary,  preceded  by  a  priest,  with 
the  lock  of  youth  and  a  panther-skin,  ollering  incense  ;  the  king  seated 
on  a  throne  at  a  banquet,  with  his  guardian-spirit  behind  hiui  and  the 
ibis-headed  god  Thout  in  front ;  the  gifts  oflered  to  tlie  king  are  recounted 
in  a  long  list  in  front  of  the  god.  Upper  row:  the>  priest  in  presence  of 
nine  gods  (in  three  rows);  the  king  between  Thout  and  Nekhbeyet,  on  the 
right,  and  Horus  and  Bnto,  oti  the  left,  who  bestow  ble'isings  upon  him; 
Thout  and  the  priest  sacrificing  to  the  sacred  boat  of  the  king,  which  is 
adorned  with  king's  heads  on  stem  and  stern  and  stands  in  a  shrine 
crowned  with  serpents;  the  priest  before  the  king  is  obliterated.  —  Right 
Wall.  Lower  row  (from  left  to  right) :  the  king  with  his  guardian-spirit  and 
the  priest,  as  on  the  opposite  wall;  the  king  seated  beside  Nekhbeyet  and 
Buto  on  a  throne  supported  by  the  written  symbol  for  'union',  about  which 
Thout  and  Horus  wind  the  characteristic  plants  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt 
(a  scene  symbolizing  the  union  of  Kgypt  under  the  king);  to  the  right 
Seshet  inscribes  the  king's  name  for  eternity;  the  priest  before  nine  gods. 
Upper  row :  the  priest  and  Thout  before  the  (defaced)  image  of  the  king, 
while  six  gods,  with  the  heads  of  dogs  and  falcons,  bring  vases  to  him ; 
Mont  and  Atum  conduct  the  ruler  to  the  temple,  followed  by  Isis.  —  The 
Rear  Wall  in  this  and  all  the  other  sanctuaries  except  that  of  Osiris  (see 
p.  241)  was  occupied  by  two  false  doors  (p.  clxviii).  surmounted  by  round 
pediments  and  separated  by  the  representation  of  a  flower  on  which  a 
serpent  lies.  —  Kiche  /.  To  the  left  Thout  holds  the  symbol  of  'life'  to 
the  king's  nose:  to  the  right  Thout  and  the  king  sit  facing  each  other;  on 


ofSeiho.'^  I.  ABYDOS.  18.  Route.      241 

the  rear  wall  tbc  priest  of  the  dead  oilers  incense  before  tlie  king.  — 
Sanctuakt  of  Ptah  (fiartly  destroyed).  On  the  side-walls  the  kins  is 
shown  worshippiuiT  I'tah.  —  NifHE  (jr.  Sethos  before  Ptah  (rear),  Ilarakhto, 
(right),  and  Sokhmet  (left).  —  Sanctuakt  of  H.mjaicbth.  The  reliefs  here 
represent  the  king  before  Ihirnklite,  Atuni,  the  goddess  Ews-os  of  Heliopolis, 
and  Ilathor.  —  Kiche  /i.  The  king  before  Amon-Re  (rear),  Miit  (right),  and 
Jlarakhte  (left),  to  whom  he  offers  an  image  of  Waat.  —  Sanctdar?  of 
Amom.  Sethos  here  sacrilices  to  the  various  forms  of  Anion  and  ofi'ers  in- 
cense to  the  sacred  boats  of  Amou  (adorned  with  ranis'  heads),  Khons, 
and  Blut  (these  two  adorned  with  the  heads  of  the  deities),  which  stand 
in  a  shrine.  The  colouring  here  is  in  excellent  preservation,  and  the  in- 
scriptions on  the  fal.se  door,  dating  from  the  Greek  period,  should  be 
noticed.  —  ^iche  i.  The  king  anoints  Anion  (rear),  offers  incense  to  Khons 
(right),  and  sacrifices  to  Miit  (left).  —  Sanctuary  of  Osiris.  The  king  in 
presence  of  various  forms  of  Osiris,  who  is  frequently  accompanied  by 
Isis  or  other  gods;  at  the  top  of  the  right  wall  he  sacrifices  to  the  sacred 
boat  of  Osiris,  and  at  the  top  of  the  left  wall  he  offers  incense  to  the 
reliquary  of  Osiris  at  Abydos,  which  stands  beneath  a  canopy  with  five 
images  of  deities  borne  on  poles  in  front  of  it;  on  each  side  of  the 
entrance  is  the  king  before  the  wnlf-headed  Wep-wawet.  —  Niche  k. 
The  king  before  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Nut.  —  Sanctoakt  of  Isis.  Sethos 
appears  before  Isis,  who  is  frequently  accompanied  by  her  son,  the  falcon- 
headed  Horus,  and  the  boat  of  Isis.  —  Niche  I.  The  king  before  Osiris, 
Horns,  and  Isis.  —  Sanctoakt  of  Hords.  The  king  in  presence  of  the 
falcon-headed  Horns.  Isis,  and  the  boat  of  Horus. 

A  door  in  the  Osiris  Chapel  leads  to  a  series  of  chambers  dedicated  to 
the  special  rites  in  honour  of  Osiris.  We  first  enter  the  Western  HaU, 
the  roof  of  which  was  supported  by  ten  columns  (without  capitals).  To 
the  right  of  this  lay  three  small  chambers,  adorned  with  fine  coloured 
sculpture  and  dedicated  respectively  to  Horus,  Osiris,  and  Isis.  Behind 
them  lies  another  room  (PI.  ni ;  closed).  To  the  left  on  entering  the 
Western  Hall  is  a  door  leadin:j:  to  a  room  with  four  columns,  which  was 
adjoined  by  three  smaller  apartments  (PI.  n,  o,  p).  These  are  much  damaged. 

South  Wing.  This  building  consists  of  a  series  of  rooms,  a 
slaughter-yard,  store-rooms,  etc  The  most  important,  to  which  a 
visit  should  be  paid  even  if  all  the  others  be  omitted,  is  the  long, 
slightly  ascending  corridor  known  as  the  — 

*GAi,iiERY  OF  THE  KiNGS,  entered  from  the  left  side  of  the  second 
hypostyle  hall,  between  the  second  and  third  row  of  columns.  On 
the  right  wall  is  the  famous  List  of  Kings.  Sethos  I.,  with  the 
censer,  and  the  crown-prince  Ramses  (with  the  side-lock  of  youth) 
reciting  hymns  from  a  papyrus-roll,  are  seen  revering  their  royal 
ancestors,  the  names  of  7(5  of  whom  are  inscribed  in  the  two  upper 
rows.  The  list  begins  with  Menes,  the  first  king  of  Egypt,  and  ex- 
tends down  to  Sethos,  the  names  of  unimportant  or  illegitimate  rulers 
being  omitted.  Above  the  list  is  the  inscri])tion :  'The  performance 
of  the  prayer  for  tlie  dead  —  May  Ptah-Solcer-Ostrls,  lord  of  the  tomb, 
mho  dwells  in  the  teinple  of  Sethos,  increase  the  gifts  for  the  kings 
of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt  —  by  King  Sethos;  1000  loaviis  of  bread, 
1000  barrels  of  beer,  1000  rattle,  1000  geese,  1000  incense-offer- 
ings, etc.,  by  King  Sethos  for  King  Menes'  etc.  (here  follows  the 
list}.  In  the  lowest  row  the  phrases  'by  King  Men-ma-re',  'by  the 
son  of  Re,  Sethos'  are  repeated  over  and  over  again. 

This  list  of  kings  is  of  great  historical  importance,  as  partly  by  its 
aid  it  has  been  possible  to  fix  the  order  of  succession  of  the  Egyptian 
kings.     Another  similar  list  is  mentioned  at  p.  275. 


242   Route  I  a.  ABYDOS.  Temple  of  Sethos  J. 

Oil  the  left  wall  of  the  corridor  we  again  meet  Sethos  and  the 
youthful  Ramses.  The  father  holds  a  censer  in  his  left  hand,  while 
the  son,  adorned  with  the  priestly  panther-skin,  pours  a  libation  on 
the  altar  in  front  of  him.  The  inscription  contains  a  long  list  of 
the  names  and  shrines  of  gods  whom  Sethos  and  his  son  are  here 
honouring  with  .sacrificial  gifts. 

In  the  centre  of  the  right  wall  a  door  leads  into  a  Passage, 
beyond  which  is  a  vaulted  stone  staircase,  which  led  out  of  tlie 
cmple  but  was  built  up  in  ancient  times. 

The  Reliefs  in  the  pas.'fage  date  from  Ram.ses  H.  On  the  right  wall  the 
king  and  a  prince  appear  lassoing  a,  bull  in  presence  of  the  wolf-headed  god 
Wep-wawet.  Farther  to  the  left  this  animal  is  being  sacrificed  to  the, 
god  Wep-wawet.  On  the  left  wall  Ramses  conducts  four  sacred  oxen  to 
Khons  and  King  Sethos  ;  further  to  the  left  Ramses  paces  out  the  precincts 
of  the  temple  (comp.  p.  306);  Ramses  and  four  gods  are  netting  birds; 
Ramses  and  a  prince  offer  the  captured  geese  to  Amon  and  Mut. 

Another  door  (now  built  up)  in  the  right  wall  of  the  Kings'  Gallery  led 
to  the  Halt,  of  this  Bauks,  a  small  chamber  (now  inaccessible)  snpi)orted 
by  six  columns  and  adorned  partly  with  paintings  by  Sethos  I.,  partly  with 
reliefs  'en  creux'  by  Kamses  II.  The  benches  by  the  walls  were  probably 
intended  for  the  sacrificial  gifts. 

The  other  rooms  of  this  S.  wing  are  all  more  or  loss  in  ruins. 
From  the  S.  end  of  the  Kings'  Gallery,  where  Coptic  prayers  have 
been  written  up  in  red,  we  enter  the  Slaughter  Court,  surrounded 
with  seven  columns,  which  was  never  completed.  The  sculptures 
and  hieroglyphics  were  slietched  in  colour  under  Sethos,  and  only  a 
few  of  them  were  afterwards  finished  as  reliefs  'en  creux'.  They 
represent  Sethos  sacrificing.  The  scenes  in  the  lower  row  depict  the 
slaughter  and  cutting  up  of  sacrificial  animals.  The  screen  between 
the  first  column  and  the  left  wall  was  intended  to  veil  the  proceed- 
ings in  the  court  from  the  Kings'  Gallery. 

Adjoining  this  conrt  are  four  unfinished  rooms  (PI.  A,  B,  C,  D).  In 
the  first  three  the  designs  on  the  wall.s  are  merely  sketched  in;  in  D  they 
have  been  completed  in  colour.  —  Of  Rooms  E-I,  which  lie  one  story 
higher,  H  and  I  are  filled  with  rubbish,  E-G  contain  unfinished  represent- 
ations dating  from  the  reign  of  Amenephthes.  —  Beyond  Boom  D,  outside 
the  temple  proper,  lies  a  deep  circular  well. 

Returning  now  to  the  second  hypostyle  hall,  we  may  pay  a  brief 
visit  to  the  Chamber  which  adjoins  it  on  the  left  and  was  dedicated 
to  Ptah-Soker,  god  of  the  dead  at  Memphis.  The  roof  is  supported 
by  three  tree-trunk  columns  (p.  239 ).  The  fine  reliefs  show  Sethos 
revering  Soker,  Nefertem,  and  other  gods. 

Opening  otT  this  chamber  are  two  small  vaulted  chapels;  that  to  the 
right  dedicated  to  Soker,  that  to  the  left  to  Nefertem.  On  the  left  wall 
of  the  former  is  a  relief  of  Horus  and  Isis  by  the  bier  of  Osiris,  on  whose 
mummy  sits  a  falcon  (Isis);  at  the  head  .and  feet  of  the  mummy  are  two 
other  falcons,  with  drooping  wings.  On  the  right  wall  are  Isis  and  Horus 
by  the  bier  of  Soker-Osiris,  whose  left  hand  is  raised  to  his  brow. 

About  40  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  temple  of  Sethos,  and  in  the  same  axis, 
lies  a  building  constructed  by  Amenephthes  in  an  artificial  mound.  The 
m.Tin  chamber  is  adorned  with  religious  scenes.  This  has  been  taken  for 
a  Shrine  of  Osiris  (Osireion),  but  is  more  probably  a  cenotaph  of  Sethos  I. 
Bcxavations  were  begun  here  in  1911  by  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund, 


Tfmple  of  Ram^f!'  1 1 .         ABTDOS.  18.  Route.    243 

A  few  minutes  to  the  N.  of  the  Toinple  of  Sethos  1.,  partly 
beneath  the  modern  village,  lies  a  Temple  of  Ramses  J.,  and  close 
by  is  the  Temple  of  Ramses  II.,  which  also  was  dedicated  to  Osiris 
and  the  cult  o'i  the  deceased  king.  The  latter  temple  is  in  a  very 
ruinous  state  hut  still  presents  many  features  of  interest.  The 
scanty  traces  of  a  spacious  court  may  he  made  6nt  in  front  of  the 
present  entrance.  Within,  the  ground -plan  of  a  peristyle  court 
(  decorated  with  pillars  and  figures  of  Osiris,  like  the  Kamesseum, 
p.  307),  two  halls,  the  sanctuaries  beyond  them,  and  various  other 
rooms  can  still  be  traced;  but  the  average  height  of  the  remaining 
walls  is  only  5-6  ft.  To  judge  by  the  extant  remains,  this  temple 
was  a  much  more  sumptuous  and  more  carefully  built  structure 
than  any  of  the  other  buildings  of  Ramses  11.  known  to  us.  Not 
only  fine-grained  limestone,  but  also  red  and  black  granite  (for  the 
door-frames),  sandstone  (for  the  columns),  and  alabaster  (for  the 
innermost  shrinel  were  used.  The  still  brilliantly  coloured  mural 
decorations  in  the  rear  rooms  are  in  delicate  low  relief  recalling  the 
admirable  sculptures  under  Sethos  I. ;  the  ruder  reliefs  'en  creux' 
occur  only  in  the  court  and  the  first  hall,  with  the  adjoining  rooms. 
The  reliefs  in  the  first  court  depict  a  grand  procession. 

On  the  right  (N.)  wall  peasants  are  shown  bringina;  oxen,  antelopes, 
geese,  and  other  animals  to  four  priests,  of  vvhcuu  the  first  records  the 
gifts,  while  the  second  offers  incense;  farther  to  the  right,  the  animals  are 
being  alaui^htered.  On  the  left  (E.  and  8.)  walls  are  similar  scenes.  To  the 
left  as  we  enter  are  persons  with  sacrificial  gifts,  who  are  met  by  a  pro- 
cession of  priests,  soldiers,  the  royal  war-chariot,  captive  net;roes  and 
Asiatics,  etc.  The  colouring  of  the  figures  is  surprisingly  well  preserved. 
—  In  the  rooms  behind  are  much  damaged  religious  representations. 

On  the  outside  of  the  temple  (X.  and  W.  sides)  is  an  inscription  relating 
to  the  war  waged  by  Ramses  11.  against  the  Hittites ;  unfortunately  only  the 
lower  parts  of  the  lines  are  preserved.  Adjacent  are  representations  of 
events  in  the  war,  similar  to  those  of  the  Ramesseum  at  Thebes  (comp. 
p.  306).  The  exterior  of  the  S.  wall  bears  a  long  inscription,  recounting 
the  building  of  the  temple  and  its  endowments. 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  Temple  of  Ramses  II.  lies  the  ruin  of  Slumet 
ez-Zeb7b,  surrounded  by  two  walls.  It  has  been  supposed  to  be  an 
ancient  fortress  but  is  more  probably  a  tomb. 

A  few  hundred  yards  to  the  N.E.  of  Shunet  ez-Zebib,  near  the 
village  of  El-Kherbeh,  lie  the  ruins  of  tlie  ancient  city  of  Abydos 
and  of  the  Sanctuary  of  Osiris,  dating  hack  to  the  beginning  of  Egyp- 
tian history.  The  enclosing  walls,  built  of  brick  in  the  Middle  Em- 
pire, and  some  scanty  traces  of  the  temple  are  extant. 

To  the  W.  of  this  point  lies  the  Coptic  convent  of  Deir  es-Sitteli 
Damidneh,  or  Ariba  Musa,  which  looks  more  like  a  village  than  a  convent. 
Although  the  church  is  interesting  for  its  seven  contiguous  chapels,  the 
convent  scarcely  repays  a  visit. 

The  ruhbishniounds  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  1  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 'the 
temple  of  Ramses  II.,  called  by  the  Arabs  TJmm  el-Ga'ab  ('mother  of  pots'), 
contain  tomlis  of  kings  of  the  1st  and  2nd  Egyptian  dynasties,  including 
those  of  Zer  (p.  98;  regarded  even  under  the  Middle  Empire  as  the  tomb  of 
Osiris),  Vsap/ialt,  and  Miebis  (1st  Dyn.),  They  were  explored  by  Amclineau 
and  Klinders  Petrie,  but  there  is  now  practically  nothing  to  be  seen. 

Near  the  village  of  Ghulxit,  lo  the.  S.  of  Abydos,  is  an  ancient  quarry. 


244 


19.  From  Baliana  to  Keneh  (Dendera)  and  Luxor 
by  the  Nile. 

To  Keneh,  65  M.,  Steamboat  upstream  in  9  lirs.,  downstream  6  hrs.  — 
From  Keneh  to  Luxor,  39  M.,  steamboat  in  5  lirs.  —  For  the  former  stage, 
eomp.  'Map,  p.  231. 

Baliana,  see^p.  221.  —  Above  Baliana  the  course  of  the  Nile 
lies  almost  due  E.  and  W.  The  BAm  Palm  (Hyphsena  Thebaica) 
becomes  more  and  more  common  and  increases  in  size  and  beauty 
as  we  travel  southwards  (comp.  p.  Ixxvi).  At  Abu  Shiisheh  (rail,  sta- 
tion, p.  222)  the  river  makes  a  wide  bend  to  tlie  N.  The  Arabian 
hills  (Gehel  Tartf)  approach  close  to  the  river. 

28  M.  Nag'  Hamddi,  on  the  W.  bank,  is  a  railway  station  (p.  222). 
The  large  railway-bridge  crossing  the  river  here  is  opened  at  certain 
hours  for  the  passage  of  ships. 

31  M.  Hou  [Hu;  W.  bank),  at  one  of  the  sharpest  bends  in  the 
stream,  is  a  large  fellah  village.  It  was  the  home  of  Sheikh  Selim, 
who  died  in  1891,  at  a  very  advanced  age,  after  sitting  stark  naked 
for  53  years  on  the  bank  of  the  Nile  at  the  spot  now  marked  by  his 
tomb  a  little  above  the  village.  He  was  deemed  to  possess  great 
powers  in  helping  navigation.  His  son,  in  a  flag-decked  boat,  col- 
lects alms  from  passing  voyagers.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the 
scanty  ruins  of  the  ancient  Diospolis  Parva. 

34  M.  El-Kasr  {El-Qasr  or  Kasr  es-Saiylid;  E.  bank)  is  probably 
the  ancient  Chenoboskiov.  A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  village  are  seen 
the  high  white  walls  enclosing  the  Convent  of  St.  George  (Deir  McLri 
Oirgis).  —  Near  the  railway  station  of  Ed- Dab  eh,  in  the  vicinity,  are 
.incient  rock-tombs  (p.  222). 

Farther  on  we  pass  a  fine  mountain  mass  (N.),  especially  im- 
posing by  afternoon-liglit,  and  see  several  thriving  villages  situated 
close  to  the  river  (on  the  E.  bank,  Esh-Sha'mhjeh  and  El-Yasimyeh ; 
on  the  W,  bank,  Er-Raisiyeh).  The  mountains  on  the  N.  recede, 
leaving  a  wide  fertile  area  at  their  base. 

431/2  M.  Fdu  (E.  bank),  a  railway  station  (p.  222). 

461/2  M.  Deshna  (E.  bank),  another  railway  station  (p.  222). 

65  M.  Keneh  (E.  bank),  also  with  a  railway  station  (p.  222). 

The  tourist- steamers  moor  at  the  W.  bank,  for  the  visit  to 
Dendera. 

Dendera. 

A  hasty  visit  to  the  temple  at  Dendera  may  be  accomplished  in  3  brs. 
Donkeys  (no  side-saddles)  meet  the  tourist-steamers.  The  visitor  should 
not  fail  to  be  provided  with  candles  or  (better  still)  an  electric  or  a  mag- 
nesium lamp  for  exploring  the  crypts  and  other  parts  of  the  temple.  — 
From  the  Railway  Station  of  Keneh  to  Dendera,  see  p.  223. 

The  distance  from  the  landing-place  to  the  ruius  of  Dendera,  the 
rubbish-heaps  of  which  are  conspicuous  from  afar,  is  about  3^/4  M., 
easily  accomplished  on  donkey-back  in  about  40  miii.  ( comp.  p.  223). 


Q 


DENDERA,  7.9.  Route.    245 

Dendera,  the  Tentyra  of  the  Greeks,  is  one  of  the  most  ancieut 
and  most  famous  cities  of  Egypt,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  sixth 
nome  of  Upper  Egypt.  Its  ancient  name  was  Enet,  or  Enet-te-ntore, 
'■Enet  of  the  Goddess'  {i.e.  of  Hathor),  of  which  the  Greek  and  mod- 
ern Arabic  names  are  corruptions.  Enet  was  the  chief  seat  of  the 
worship  of  Hathor  (the  Egyptian  Aphrodite),  goddess  of  love  and 
joy.  Along  with  her  husband,  the  falcon-headed  Horns  ofEdfu, 
and  her  son,  the  youthful  Ehi  or  Har-sem-tewe  (^'Horus,  uniter  of 
both  lands';  Gr.  Harsomtus;  comp.  p.  344),  she  was  worshipped  in 
the  magnificent  temple  which  remains  here  to  this  day.  Her  chief 
festival  synchronized  with  the  great  feast  of  the  New  Year. 

The  gate,  to  which  our  road  leads  and  where  the  cards  of  ad- 
mission (see  p.  200)  are  shown,  forms  the  N.  termination  of  the 
wall  of  Nile  bricks  enclosing  the  temple.  The  total  enclosure  is 
317  yds.  long  and  306  yds.  wide,  and  besides  the  large  Temple 
of  Hathor  contains  a  small  Temple  of  Isis  and  a  so-called  Birth 
House  (^p.  250).  The  N.  Gate  was  built  under  the  Emp.  Domitian, 
who  is  here  named  Germanicus.  On  the  side  next  the  temple 
appear  the  names  of  Nerva  and  Trajanus,  also  with  the  epithet  of 
Germanicus  (^Trajan  is  here  also  called  Dacicus).  There  is  another 
similar  gate  (now  much  sanded  up)  on  the  E.  side ;  while  beyond 
the  temple -precincts,  also  to  the  E.,  is  a  third  gate,  dating  from 
the  Roman  Imperial  epoch.  —  Straight  in  front  of  the  N.  gate 
lies  the  — 

"•'•'Temple  of  Hathor,  the  orientation  of  which  is  practically  N. 
and  S.  Though  still  partly  buried  in  the  accumulated  rubbish  of 
centuries,  this  temple  is  in  better  preservation  than  any  other  an- 
cient Egyptian  temple  except  those  of  Edfu  and  Fhilae.  It  was 
built  in  the  first  century  !>.('.  during  the  reigns  of  the  later  Ptolemies 
and  of  Augustus;  but  it  occupies  the  site  of  an  older  edifice,  going 
back  traditionally  to  the  period  of  the  Ancient  Empire,  and  added 
to  or  altered  not  only  by  the  kings  of  the  12th  Dyn.,  but  also  by 
the  great  mouarchs  of  the  New  Empire,  such  as  Thutmosis  111., 
Ramses  II.,  and  Ramses  III.  The  decoration  of  the  temple-walls 
with  reliefs  went  on  to  a  still  more  recent  date.  In  accordance 
with  the  plan  of  other  temples  (comp.  Plan  of  Edfu,  p.  344)  a 
colonnade  and  two  large  pylons  should  stand  in  front  of  the  great 
■vestihule ;  but  perhaps  the  means  to  add  these  were  not  forth- 
coming. If  we  compare  the  temple  of  Dendera  with  a  similar  struc- 
ture of  the  earlier  period,  such  as  the  temple  of  Abydos  (p.  238) 
or  the  great  national  sanctuary  of  Karnak  (p.  265),  we  find  it  not 
less  beautii'ul  in  its  own  way,  though  of  course  far  from  competing 
with  these  gigantic  structures  in  magnificence  or  extent.  Its  chief 
characteristics  are  a  fine  symmetry  of  proportions  and  dignified  adap- 
tation to  its  purposes.  Neither  the  figures  nor  the  inscriptions 
sculptured  on  the  walls  compare  in  masterly  execution  with  those 
in  the  tombs  of  the  Ancient  Empire  or  with  those  in  temples  dating 


246    Route  W.  DENDERA.  Temple 

fiom  the  reigns  of  Tlmtmosis  III.  and  Setlios  I.  :  but  wo.  cannot 
refuse  our  admiration  even  to  these  products  of  later  Egyptian  art. 

We  first  enter  the  Great  Vestibule,  or  Pronaos,  which  has 
24  sistrum-columns  with  heads  of  Hathor  (p.  clxi).  At  the  top  of 
the  fa(^ade  is  a  huge  concave  cornice,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  the 
winged  sun-disk. 

<Jn  the  upper  edge  of  the  cornice  is  the  fnllowins  Greek  inscription 
of  three  lines:  I'lrsp  AuTOxpotTopo?  Ttpspiou  KaCsapo?  Kio\)  SEpaatoO  deoC 
ilspaaxoO  uioO  iid  A'jXou  AuiXX(ou  'tXdxxou  TjYEfjiovoc  xal  AuXoo  (tcuXoutou 
Kptanou  EittJTOOTTjYOU  2apait(u)vo<;  Tpuydfxpo'j  oTpaTYJYoOvTO?  oi  duo  Tf]c  (at)- 
Tpon6/.e<U(;  xa'i  tou  vo(jlou  to  itpovaov 'Atp poSEtTTQi  i>Edi  jxEYtaTT)!  xal  TOi?  ouv- 
^doi?  SeoI?.  L  [  ...  TipJEpiou  Katoapoj;  . . .  ].  —  For  [behoof  of]  the  Em- 
peror Tiberius,  the  young  Augustus^  son  of  the  divine  Auguslns,  under  the  prefect 
Anli/s  Avillins  Flaccvs,  the  governor  Anliis  Fulvins  Crispi's,  and  the  district 
governor  Snrapion.  son  of  Trvchambos,  the  inhabitants  of  the  capital  and  of 
the  nome  dedicated  the  Pronaos  to  the  great  goddess  Aphrodite  and  her  fellow 
gods,  in  the  ....  yenr  of  the  Emp.   Tiberius  .  .  .  . 

The  exterior  front  of  the  hall  is  enclosed  by  six  stone  screens 
between  the  columns  in  the  first  row.  The  interior  walls  of  the  pro- 
naos are  decorated  with  four  rows  of  representations.  These  depict 
the  rulers  (in  succession  the  Roman  emperors  Augustus,  Tiberius, 
Caligula,  Claudius,  and  Nero)  advancing  with  votive  offerings  for 
Hathor  and  other  gods.  The  mutilated  reliefs  on  the  screens  be- 
tween the  columns  (PL  a-f)  refer  to  the  ceremonial  entrance  of  the 
ruler  into  the  temple. 

Reliefs  on  thk  Screens.  Th  the  right  of  the  entrance  (Pl.a,  6,  c): 
at  a  we  see  the  king,  wearing  the  crown  of  Lower  Egypt,  quitting  the 
palace,  followed  by  his  guardian-spirit  and  preceded  by  a  priest  offer- 
ing incense;  at  6  the  falcon -headed  Horus  and  the  ibis -headed  Thout 
sprinkle  the  king  with  drops  of  water  farming  the  symbol  of  life;  at  c 
the  goddesses  of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt  bestow  blessings  upon  the  king. 
To  the  left  (on  the  W.  wallj  is  a  relief:  the  king  is  conducted  before 
Hathor  by  the  gods  Jlont  of  Hermonthis  and  Atum  of  Heliopolis.  —  The 
representations  at  PI.  d.  e,  /,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  are  similar, 
except  that  at  d  the  king  wears  the  crown  of  Upper  Egypt. 

The  sculptured  Diagrams  on  the  Ceiling  are  interesting  also.  They 
are  divided  by  the  columns  into  seven  bands,  running  from  end  to  end 
of  the  Pronaos,  and  refer  to  astronomical  subjects.  1st  Band  (to  the  ex- 
treme left;  PI-/).  Nut,  goddess  of  the  sky;  beneath  her  are  pictures  of 
the  Zodiac  and  boats  with  personilicatious  of  the  stars.  The  sun  shines 
upon  the  temple  of  Dendera,  here  typitied  by  ahead  of  Hathor.  2nd  Band. 
Deities  of  the  stars  and  the  Hours  of  the  day  and  night.  3rd  Band.  Phases 
of  the  Moon  and  the  course  of  the  Sun  during  the  12  hours  of  the  day. 
4th  Band  (in  the  centre).  Flying  vultures  and  sun-disks.  Bands  5-7  repeat 
the  scenes  in  Bands  3-1. 

The  rear  wall  of  this  great  vestibule  forms  the  facade  of  the 
temple  proper;  it  is  surmounted  by  a  concave  cornice  and  a  round 
moulding.    In  the  centre  is  a  door  leading  to  the  — 

Hypostyle  Hall  ('Hall  of  the  Appearance'),  the  roof  of  which  is 
supported  by  six  columns,  with  elaborate  foliage-capitals  on  which 
heads  of  Hathor  also  appear.  The  base  and  lowest  two  di'ums  of  each 
column  are  of  granite,  the  remainder  of  sandstone.  Eight  square 
apertures  in  the  ceiling  admit  the  light.  Four  rows  of  reliefs  on 
the  walls  exhibit  the  king  before  the  gods  of  Dendera.    In  this  and 


I -XI    SI 


II  <M'ii()nis  ;u 


111   Side  Chapels 


LcLboratory 


Treasury 


Boor 
( built  up) 


G  reat  Vestibule 

■ 

or  Pro  n  ao  s 


I 


Door 
I  built  up ) 


of  Hathor.  DENDERA.  19.  Route.    247 

all  the  following  rooms  of  the  temple,  with  the  exception  of  the 
second  store-room  to  the  left  of  this  hall  and  the  crypts  (p.  248),  the 
cartouches  of  the  king  are  left  empty,  probably  because  the  priests 
were  in  doubt  as  to  which  ruler  should  be  selected  for  honour  in 
the  unsettled  times  during  which  the  temple  was  built. 

Some  of  the  Reliefs  in  the  lower  row,  representing  the  ceremonies 
performed  by  the  kinii  at  the  foundation  of  the  temple,  deserve  notice.  To 
the  right  of  the  Entrance  (PI.  g) :  the  king,  wearing  the  crown  of  Lower 
Egypt,  quits  his  palace,  preceded  by  a  priest  offering  incense;  to  the  left 
the  king  cleaves  the  earth  with  a  hoe  on  the  site  of  the  temple  —  turns 
the  first  sod,  as  we  should  express  it;  in  front  of  him  is  the  goddess 
Hathor.  —  To  (he  left  of  the  Entrance  (PI.  h):  the  king,  with  the  crown 
of  Upper  Egypt,  quits  his  palace  (as  above) ;  to  the  right  he  presents 
Hathor  with  bricks,  representing  the  building-material  for  the  new  temple. 

On  each  side  of  this  hall  are  three  Chambers,  used  as  laboratory, 
treasury,  and  store-rooms  for  the  sacrificial  incense,  etc.  The  in- 
scriptions and  representations  show  the  Pharaoh  in  presence  of 
Hathor,  the  lion-headed  Horns  of  Dendera,  and  other  gods. 

We  next  enter  the  First  Antechamber  ('Sacrificial  Chamber"), 
which  is  lighted  by  apertures  in  the  roof  and  walls  and  is  decorated 
with  four  rows  of  mural  reliefs.  The  latter,  with  reference  to  the 
purpose  of  the  chamber,  represent  the  king  presenting  different 
ofiferings  to  Hathor  and  other  deities.  To  the  right  and  left  are  pass- 
ages, leading  to  the  staircases  which  ascend  to  the  roof  of  the 
temple  (p.  249).  On  the  left  is  also  a  small  chamber  used  for  sacri- 
ficial offerings. 

The  Second  Antechamber  ('Central  Hall'),  which  we  next  enter, 
is  lighted  by  means  of  apertures  in  the  side-walls  and  has  four 
rows  of  bas-reliefs  on  the  walls.  A  door  to  the  left  opens  into  a 
small  room  used  as  a  Wardrobe.,  in  which  perfumes  were  preserved 
as  well  as  the  sacred  garments  with  which  the  images  of  the 
goddess  were  embellished  at  festivals.  —  The  corresponding  door 
oi\  the  right  side  of  the  hall  leads  to  three  connected  Rooms,  which 
to  a  certain  extent  form  a  special  enclosed  sanctuary,  within  the 
large  temple.  We  see  here  first  a  small  store-room,  connected  by 
a  Corridor  (PI.  i)  witli  the  W.  staircase  (p.  249).  Thence  we  enter 
an  open  Court,  beyond  which  is  a  charming  Kiosque,  approached 
by  steps  and  supported  by  two  sistrum-columns.  These  are  con- 
nected with  the  side-walls  by  two  stone  screens  rising  to  half  the 
height  of  the  columns.  Here  the  priests  assembled  to  celebrate 
the  birthday  of  Hathor  and  the  immediately  following  great  new 
year's  festival.  The  sacrificial  gifts  were  ofi'ered  in  the  court,  as 
represented  on  the  left  (E.)  wall.  The  walls  of  the  kiosque  are  em- 
bellished with  three  rows  of  representations,  showing  the  king  and 
various  deities  in  presence  of  the  gods  of  Dendera.  Just  above  the 
floor  is  a  procession  of  local  deities  (1.,  those  ofUpper  Egypt,  r., 
those  of  Lower  Egypt)  bearing  gifts.  On  the  ceiling  the  sky-goddess 
Nut  is  depicted  with  the  sun  rising  from  her  lap  and  shining  upon 
a  head  of  Hathor,  that  typifies  the  temple  of  Dendera. 

Babdeekk's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  16 


248    Route  19.  DENDERA.  Temple 

We  return  to  the  second  antechamber  in  order  to  visit  thence 
the  innermost  part  of  the  temple,  'the  hidden  secret  chambers',  as 
they  are  called  in  the  inscriptions. 

The  central  door  leads  to  the  profoundly  dark  Sanctuary,  'the 
great  seat',  in  which  the  sacred  boats  with  the  images  of  the  gods 
formerly  stood.  The  king  alone,  or  his  sacerdotal  representative, 
might  enter  this  sacred  precinct  and  in  solitude  commune  with 
the  deity.  Only  once  a  year  was  this  permitted  even  to  him,  at  the 
great  festival  of  the  new  year.  The  reliefs  on  the  walls  depict  the 
rites  which  the  king  had  to  perform  on  entering  the  sanctuary,  and 
the  sacrifices  which  he  had  to  offer. 

There  are  three  rows  of  Reliefs,  but  only  the  lowest  can  be  distinctly 
seen  even  with  the  aid  of  an  electric  or  a  magnesium  lamp.  The  reliefs 
are  so  arranged  that  each  scene  on  the  Left  Wall  (PI.  k),  beginning  at 
the  entrance,  is  followed  in  historical  sequence  by  the  corresponding  scene 
on  the  Right  Wall  (PI.  1).  1  (left)  The  king  ascends  the  steps  to  the  shrine 
of  the  gods;  2  (right)  removes  the  band  fastening  the  door;  3  (1.)  breaks 
the  seal  on  the  door;  4  (r.)  opens  the  door;  5  (1.)  gazes  upon  the  god- 
dess; 6  (r.)  prays  to  her  with  his  arms  hanging  down;  7  (1.)  offers  incense 
before  the  sacred  boats  of  Hathor  and  Horus  of  Edfu;  and  (8;  r.)  before 
the  boats  of  Hathor  and  Har-sem-tewe.  —  Hear  Wall  (PI.  m).  To  the  left, 
the  king,  before  whom  is  the  youthful  son  of  Hathor  with  sistrum  and 
rattle,  presents  an  image  of  the  goddess  Maat  to  Hathor  and  Horus  of 
Edfu ;  to  the  left,   the  same  ceremony  before  Hathor  and  Har-sem-tewe. 

The  Sanctuary  is  surrounded  by  a  Coekidoe,  lighted  by  aper- 
tures in  the  side-walls  and  in  the  ceiling,  and  entered  from  the 
second  antechamber  by  means  of  two  side-doors.  Opening  off  this 
corridor  are  11  Small  Chambbes  (PI.  I-XI),  which  were  used  as 
chapels  dedicated  to  various  deities,  as  store-rooms,  and  for  different 
religious  purposes.  Room  I,  which  is  embellished  with  reliefs  like 
those  in  the  Sanctuary,  contained  a  shrine  with  an  image  of  Hathor. 
A  modern  iron  staircase  in  this  room  leads  to  a  small  Niche  in  the  S. 
wall,  containing  a  relief  of  Hathor. 

Before  ascending  to  the  roof  of  the  temple,  we  should  visit  the 
subterranean  chambers,  or  Crypts,  in  which  were  preserved  such 
sacrificial  vessels  and  images  of  tlie  gods  as  were  no  longer  in  use. 
They  claim  attention  not  only  for  their  remarkable  construction  but 
also  for  the  fresh  tints  of  their  paintings.  The  temple  contains  no 
fewer  than  12  crypts,  constructed  in  the  thickness  of  the  temple 
walls  in  different  stories  and  entered  by  narrow  flights  of  steps  or  by 
openings  concealed  by  movable  stone  slabs.  Their  elaborate  mural 
reliefs  date  from  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  XIII.  Neos  Diouysos,  and  are 
therefore  the  oldest  as  well  as  the  best  executed  decorations  in  the 
temple.  The  custodian  will  open,  on  request,  the  locked  crypts 
(Nos.  4  and  7),  both  of  which  are  worth  a  visit  (magnesium  wire  or 
a  lamp  desirable).    Comp,  the  accompanying  Plans. 

In  Crypt  iV'o.  4,  which  we  enter  through  a  square  opening  in  the  pave- 
ment, are  several  narrow  chambers,  on  the  walls  of  which  are  depicted 
the  objects  that  used  to  be  preserved  here.  The  colouring  of  the  admirably 
executed  reliefs  is  remarkably  fresh.  On  the  right  wall  of  the  second 
room  to  the  right  is   an  interesting  relief  of  King  Phiops  (6th  Dyn.)  kneel 


r^^i 


Tr-rT"i 


^:..^._^^.....  i 


v'-'S    p"^!    J^":! 

^J  (j  u 


r^" 


^J  -^A 


U  U 


C:*--!^ 


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r   i 


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> 

3 


of  Haihor.  DENDERA.  29.  Route.    249 

ing  and  offering  a  statuette  of  the  god  EUi  to  foar  images  of  Hathor.  — 
On  tbe  walls  of  Crypt  No.  7  (entered  through  an  opening  in  the  pavement 
of  the  small  sacriflcial  court)  Ptolemy  XIII.  appears  presenting  gifts  (chiefly 
ornameuts)  to  various  gods.  —  Crypts  Nos.  1  A  2,  arranged  above  each 
other  in  two  stories,  are  interesting  also;  they  are  most  conveniently  ac- 
cessible from  Room  VII. 

We  return  to  the  first  antechamber  (p.  247)  and  ascend  one 
of  the  Staircases  which  lead  thence  to  the  roof  of  the  temple. 
The  East  Staircase,  which  ascends  straight  to  the  roof  with  easy 
steps,  is  dark.  The  West  Staircase  is  a  kind  of  spiral  staircase, 
with  ten  rectangular  bends,  lighted  by  several  windows,  with 
tasteful  symbolical  representations  of  the  snn  shining  through 
them.  The  walls  of  both  staircases  are  embellished  with  reliefs  of 
the  ceremonial  procession  of  the  priests  with  the  images  of  Hathor 
and  her  fellow-gods  at  the  great  new  year's  festival.  The  left  wall 
presents  ns  with  a  view  of  the  procession  ascending  from  the  lower 
rooms  of  the  temple  to  the  roof,  in  order  that  'the  goddess  Hathor 
might  be  united  with  the  beams  of  her  father  Re'  (the  sun-god);  the 
right  wall  shows  the  procession  descending.  The  priests  are  headed 
by  the  king;  some  of  them  wear  masks  representing  the  lesser  deities. 
—  The  W.  staircase  passes  a  small  room  (situated  above  the  store- 
room adjoining  the  second  antechamber)  with  three  windows  look- 
ing into  the  court.  Higher  up  is  a  small  court  with  two  rooms 
opening  off  it,  corresponding  to  the  chambers  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
terrace  (see  below)  and  likewise  dedicated  to  the  cult  of  Osiris. 
The  reliefs  in  the  second  room  represent  the  resuscitation  of  Osiris. 

We  now  reach  the  Temple  Roof,  which  has  various  levels,  the 
highest  being  above  the  great  vestibule  or  pronaos  (p.  246).  At 
the  S.W.  angle  of  the  lower  terrace,  which  we  reach  first,  stands  a 
small  open  Pavilion,  supported  by  12  sistrum-columns  with  head.< 
of  Hathor.  Adjoining  the  terrace  on  the  N.  is  a  small  Shrine  of  Osiris, 
situated  above  the  chambers  to  the  left  of  the  hypostyle  hall  and  used 
in  the  worship  of  the  slain  and  risen  Osiris,  as  curious  representations 
and  numerous  inscriptions  indicate.  The  second  room  is  separated 
from  the  first  (an  open  court)  by  pillars,  and  formerly  contained  the 
famous  Zodiac  of  Dendera  (now  in  the  Bibliotheque  Nationale  at 
Paris),  the  only  circular  representation  ofthe  heavens  found  iuEgypt. 
The  remaining  portion  of  the  ceiling  still  shows  two  figures  of  the 
goddess  of  heaven.  The  window  in  the  last  room,  with  represent- 
ations of  Osiris  resting  upon  a  bier,  deserves  attention.  —  A  flight 
of  steps  ascends  from  the  N.W.  end  of  the  terrace  to  the  roof  of  the 
first  antechamber  and  thence  to  the  still  higher  roof  of  the  hypostyle 
hall.  Thence  a  modern  iron  staircase  leads  to  the  roof  of  the 
pronaos,  which  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Nile 
and  the  hills  of  the  desert. 

Finally  a  walk  round  the  outside  of  the  temple  will  be  found 
interesting.  The  exterior  walls  are  covered  with  inscriptions  and 
representations.   The  reliefs  on  the  E.  and  W.  walls  date  from  the 

16* 


250  Route  19.  DENDERA. 

reign  of  Nero  and  otlier  Roman  emperors.  The  large  scenes  on  the  S. 
rear  wall  show  Ptolemy  XVI.  Csesar,  sou  of  Julius  Caesar,  and  his 
mother,  Cleopatra,  in  presence  of  the  gods  of  Dendera.  In  the 
centre  is  the  image  of  the  goddess  Hathor.  The  faces  are  purely 
conventional  and  in  no  sense  portraits.  The  projecting  lions'  heads 
on  the  sides  of  the  building  were  intended  to  carry  off  the  rain-water. 

To  the  right  (N.W.)  of  the  entrance  to  the  temple  of  Hathor  lies 
the  so-called  Birth  House,  a  small  temple  not  yet  quite  freed  from 
de'bris.  Similar  'birth  houses'  were  erected  beside  all  large  temples 
of  the  Ptolemaic  period.  They  were  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the 
sons  of  the  two  deities  revered  in  the  main  temple,  in  the  present 
case  to  Har-sem-tewe  (p.  245).  This  'birth  house'  was  built  by 
Augustus  and  some  of  its  reliefs  were  added  by  Trajan  and  Hadrian. 
On  the  N.  and  S.  sides  is  a  colonnade  with  flower-columns,  the 
abaci  of  which  are  adorned  with  figures  of  Bes,  the  patron  deity  of 
women  in  labour. 

Interioe.  We  first  enter  a  vestibule,  from  which  open  on  the  right 
a  chamber  with  a  flight  of  steps  and  a  door  to  the  colonnade,  and  on  the 
left  two  other  apartments.  A  door  in  the  middle  admits  to  a  wide  space,  out 
of  which  open  three  other  doors.  Those  at  the  sides  lead  to  corridors, 
while  that  in  the  centre  opens  into  the  birth-chamber  proper,  the  mural 
reliefs  in  which  represent  the  birth  and  nursing  of  the  diviue  infant. 

Buried  in  rubbish  immediately  to  the  S.  of  the  Birth  House  is 
a  large  Coptic  Church. 

Behind  the  temple  of  Hathor  (to  the  S.W.)  is  a  Temple  of  Isis, 
consisting  of  a  vestibule  and  three  chambers.  The  unattractive  and 
uninteresting  building  owes  its  origin  to  the  Emperor  Augustus. 

Beyond  Keneh  (p.  244)  the  steamer  passes  three  islands.  On  the 
W.  bank  lies  the  village  of  Ballas^  with  clay-deposits  from  which 
most  of  the  'Keneh  pottery'  is  made  (see  p.  223).  Balalis  (pi.  of 
ballas,  named  after  the  village),  kulal  (pi.  of  kulla),  and  other  kind  - 
of  jars,  some  of  considerable  size,  lie  on  the  banks  awaiting  ship- 
ment. This  village  is  situated  in  the  district  known  to  the  Gi  ;eks 
as  Typhonia  ('dedicated  to  Typhon',  i.e.  Seth). 

121/2  M.  BarM  [El-Baroud;  E.  bank).  —  To  the  E.,  I1/2  M. 
inland,  lies  Kuft  (p.  223).  On  the  W.  bank  is  the  village  of  Tukh 
(p.  224).  The  village  of  El-Helleh  (E.  bank)  is  the  steamboat  station 
forKus  (p.  223).  Opposite  lies  NaMdeh,  another  steamboat  station 
(p.  224).  The  Nile  describes  a  curve  to  the  W.  and  forms  the  island 
of  Mefir.  On  the  "W.  bank  is  Ed-Denftk  (Danfiq).  —  At  Shenhur, 
which  lies  a  little  inland  from  the  E.  bank,  about  3  M.  to  the  S. 
of  Kus,  are  the  ruins  of  a  small  temple  of  Isis,  discovered  byPris-^e 
d'Avennes.  To  the  E.  of  Shenhur  runs  the  Shenhur  Canal,  whic  i 
begins  a  little  above  Thebes  and  extends  on  the  N.  to  Keneh. 

Khizdm  (E.  bank;  rail,  station,  p.  224).  —  32  M.  fW.  bank) 
Kamiila,  formerly  vdth  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  was,   during  the 


^^f^^n^^nme'pl^Wa^ne^^Debe^Te^S^ 


LUXOli.  i>0.  Route.   251 

rebellion  of  Sheikh  Alimed  in  1824.  the  res^idence  of  'Ali  Kashit 
Abu-Tarbugh,  who  defended  it  against  the  insurgents. 

On  the  left  bank,  as  we  draw  near  Thebes,  rise  high  limestone 
hills,  presenting  precipitous  sides  to  the  river,  from  which,  however, 
they  are  separated  by  a  strip  of  fertile  land.  The  right  bank  is  flatter, 
and  the  Arabian  hills  retreat  farther  into  the  distance.  Before 
reaching  the  point  where  the  W.  chain  projects  a  long  curved  mass 
of  rock  towards  the  river,  we  see  to  the  left  first  the  great  obelisk, 
then  the  pylons  of  the  temple  of  Karnak,  half-concealed  by  palm 
trees.  When  we  clear  the  abrupt  profile  of  the  W.  cliffs  and  new 
formations  are  visible  at  its  foot,  we  may  catch  a  distant  view  of 
Luxor  towards  the  S.E.  None  of  the  buildings  on  the  W.  bank  are 
visible  until  the  steamer  has  ascended  as  high  as  Karnak;  then  first  the 
Colosi?i  of  Memnon  and  afterwards  the  Ramesseum  and  the  Temple 
of  Deir  el-Babri  come  into  view.  As  we  gradually  approach  Luxor, 
we  distinguish  the  flags  flying  above  the  consular  dwellings.  The 
Winter  Palace  Hotel  and  the  castellated  villa  of  a  Dutch  resident 
are  conspicuous  in  the  background. 

39  M.  Liixor  (see  below),  on  the  K.  bank,  where  the  steamer 
halts  close  to  the  colonnades  of  the  temple  (comp.  PI.  A,  3,  4). 
The  traveller  is  advised  not  to  leave  the  landing-place  until  he  has 
assured  himself  that  his  luggage  is  being  taken  to  the  right  hotel. 


20.  Luxor  and  its  Environs :  the  Site  of  Ancient 
Thebes. 

Arrival.  By  Sleanur,  see  above;  by  Railway,  see  p.  224.  —  The  Railieuy 
Station  (PI.  D,  5)  lies  to  the  S.E.  of  the  town.  Cabs  and  hotel-carriages 
(5  pias.)  meet  the  trains. 

Hotels.  'WiNTEE  Palace  Hotel  (PI.  A,  5),  on  the  quay,  to  the  S.  of 
the  landing-places,  with  lift,  terrace,  large  garden,  and  beautiful  view  to- 
wards the  Nile,  closed  in  summer,  pens,  from  80  pias. ;  'Xuxor  Hotel  (PI. 
B,  4),  with  a  large  garden,  pens,  from  70  pias.,  open  all  the  year  round; 
Kaknak  Hotel  (PI.  B,  2),  with  garden,  pens,  from  60  pias. ;  these  three 
hotels  are  owned  by  the  Upper  Egvpt  Hotel  Co.  *Savot  Hotel  (PI.  B,  C, 
1,  2),  with  a  pretty  garden  on  the  KUe,  open  Nov. -April,  pens.  60-70  pias.; 
*H6tel  on  Nil,  on  the  Nile,  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel  (comp. 
the  Map  on  p.  254),  with  garden,  pens,  from  GO  pias.,  open  yov.-May; 
6hand-H6tel  Tewfikieh  (PI.  C,  1),  with  large  garden,  pens.  60-100  pias., 
open  Nov. -June.  —  Plainer:  H6tel  de  Famille  (PI.  C,  1,  2),  on  the  road 
to  Karnak,  with  garden,  pens.  40-50  pias..  Hotel  de  la  Oaee  et  Pension 
Suisse  (PI.  D,  5),  opposite  the  station,  pens.  35-40,  in  summer  30  pias., 
both  clean.  —  Beek  on  draught  at  Rohrmosers,  on  the  Nile  (PI.  A,  3). 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  4),  Shari'  el-Mahatta.  —Telegraph  Offices,  near  the 
Luxor  Hotel  (PI.  B,  4)  and  at  the  station.  —  Agency  of  the  National  Bank 
of  Egypt,  on  the  quay  (PI.  A,  4). 

Steamboat  Agencies.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son  (PI.  A,  4),  Hamburg  &  Anglo- 
American  Nile  Co.,  both  near  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel. 

Consular  Agents.  French,  German,  Austria-Hungarian,  Italian,  Belgian, 
and  flussian  (comp.  the  Plan). 


252    Route  W.  LDXOR.  Practical  Notes. 

Physicians.  Dr.  W.  E.  N.  Dunn,  at  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel;  Dr.  Worth- 
ington,  at  the  Laxor  Hotel;  Dr.  H.  Laufer  (German),  on  the  quay  to  the 
N.  of  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel.  The  hospital  (PI.  B,  C,  5),  which' i8  sup- 
ported by  the  voluntary  contributions  of  travellers,  is  in  charge  of  Egyp- 
tian physicians  (chief  medical  adviser.  Dr.  Dunn). 

Chemists.  English  Chemist,  at  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel ;  Rizgallah,  in 
the  town. 

Churches.  Anglican  Church,  in  the  garden  of  the  Luxor  Hotel;  Ameri- 
can Church  (PI.  D,  1),  on  the  road  to  Kamak.  Roman  Catholic  Church 
(PI.  C,  2);  in  the  Zabtiyeh  Square.  The  hours  of  the  services  are  posted 
up  at  the  hotels. 

Guides.  A  guide  is  of  assistance  in  saving  time  but  is  not  indispen- 
sable, as  the  donkey-boys  and  temple-guardians  can  supply  the  necessary 
information.  The  charge  is  20  pias.  for  half-a-day,  30  pias.  for  a  whole  day 
on'  the  E.  bank,  and  35  pias.  for  a  whole  day  on  the  W.  bank ;  more  for  a 
large  party.  The  following  guides  may  be  recommended,  all  of  whom 
speak  English:  Mohammed  'AbOdi,  Oirgis  Mikha'il,  Ahmed  'Abdalldh,  Abul- 
I'cisan  'Aiijad,  BUhis  Ohattds,  Mdlik  ilankariOs.  iSa'id  TaniOs,  Solimdn  Muhauwi^, 
Ahmed  Kuraim,  Mohammed  'Abdalldh,  Amin  Ahmed,  IbrdMm  'Ai\/dd,  Udmid 
'Abd  et-Tauwdb,  YHsuf  Mohammed,  'Abdalldh  Ahmed  ,Solimdn,  Ilusein  Moham- 
med, Shamandi  Ahmed,  and  Abduh  Mohammed. 

The  Donkeys  (comp.  p.  xviii)  are  good  and  have  good  saddles  (English 
saddles  at  the  hotels).  To  Karnak  and  back  7  pias.  (bakshish  included); 
to  Medinet  Habn  and  back  15  pias. ;  to  the  Valley  of  the  Kings  and  back 
01-  for  a  whole  day  15  pias.,  side-saddle  5  pias.  extra. 

Carriages.  From  the  station  to  the  town,  see  p.  251;  to  Karnak  and 
back  (incl.  1  hr.'s  waiting)  30-40  pias.  As  to  the  charges  for  drives  on 
the  W.  bank  and  for  'chaises  k  porteurs'  travellers  should  enquire  at  the 
hotels. 

Steamboats  of  the  Compagnie  des  Bateavx-Omnibtit  ply  once  daily  to 
Esneh  (p.  342)  in  S^/^  hrs.,  returning  in  3V2  (fare  4,  1st  cl.  12  pias.;  comp. 
p.  253).  —  Boat  across  the  river  to  the  W.  bank  5  pias.  (tickets  at  the 
hotels);  for  a  trip  on  the  Nile,  1  hr.  15,  2  hrs.  25  pias. ,  etc.,  3-4  pers.  20 
and  35  pias. 

Bookseller,  N,  Zachoi,  at  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel.  —  Photographs. 
Zachos,  see  above  (also  photographic  materials);  Oaetano  Piromali,  Pohoo- 
mull  Brothers,  both  on  the  quay. 

Gymkhanas  are  frequently  arranged;  during  the  season  races  of  don- 
keys, etc.  take  place  every  week. 

Antiquities.  Luxor  is  noted  for  its  spurious  antiquities.  Many  of  the 
articles  oifered  for  sale  in  the  streets  are  so  skilfully  imitated  that  even 
experts  are  sometimes  in  doubt  as  to  their  genuineness;  the  ordinary 
traveller  seldom  or  never  secures  an  authentic  specimen,  a  fact  which  is 
very  amusingly  illustrated  in  T.  O.  Wakeling^s  'Forged  Egyptian  Antiquities' 
(London,  1912;  illus.  ;  5«.).  Travellers  should  never  buy  antiquities  without 
the  advice  of  a  connoisseur.  Purchases  should  not  be  made  in  presence 
of  the  dragomans,  as  these  individuals,  by  tacit  agreement,  receive  a 
percentage  from  the  dealers,  which  is.  of  course,  added  to  the  price. 
Specimens  may  be  obtained  from  Mohareb  Todrtu,  the  German  consular 
agent,  or  from  the  dealers  Mohammed  Muhasseb ,  'Abd  el-Megld,  Mansilr 
Mahmhd,  R.  de  Rustafjaell,  etc.  Prices  vary  greatly;  \l.,  or  even  more, 
must  be  paid  for  a  good  scarabseus  with  fine  colour. 

Distribution  of  Time.  Travellers  by  the  tourist-steamers  are  more  or 
less  committed  to  the  prescribed  programme  (comp.  p.  203).  Those  who 
are  at  liberty  to  arrange  their  time  for  themselves  will  find  the  following 
programmes  convenient.  (For  day-excursions  the  hotels  provide  their 
guests  with  lunch-baskets;  travellers  staying  at  the  Winter  Palace,  Luxor, 
and  Karnak  Hotels  can  obtain  a  coupon  for  5  pias.  entitling  them  to 
lunch  at  Cook's  Rest  House,  p.  299.) 


Situation.  LUXOR.  20.  Route.   253 

Thrbb  Dats'  Visit.  1st  Day.  Start  early  and  ride  to  Karnak  (p.  262). 
The  traveller  who  visits  the  Qreat  Temple  of  Amon,  the  most  gigantic  of 
the  monnments,  on  the  first  day  proceeds  then  to  view  the  other  lions  with 
the  satisfactory  feeling  that  Thebes  has  fulfilled  his  highest  expectations ; 
and  he  will  not  fail  to  take  a  later  opportunity  to  return  to  refresh  and 
confirm  his  first  impression.  A  visit  by  moonlight  is  exceedingly  attrac- 
tive. In  the  afternoon  visit  the  temple  of  Luxor  (p.  257),  reached  in  a 
few  minutes  from  the  hotels. — 2nd  Day.  Cross  the  river  early,  visit  the 
Temple  of  Sethos  I.  (p.  282),  ride  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings  at  Btbdn 
el-Mul(tk  (p.  284),  then  cross  the  ridge  to  visit  the  terrace-temple  of  Deir 
el-Bahri  (p.  299 ;  an  excursion  of  7  hrs.).  —  3rd  Day.  Cross  the  river 
early,  visit  the  Colossi  of  ilemnon  (p.  330),  Medinet  Habu  (p.  322),  the 
Tombs  of  the  Qtieens  (p.  319),  and  Deir  el-Medineh  (p.  316).  On  the  way  back 
(after  lunch)  visit  the  Bamesse.um  (p.  306),  and  finally  some  of  the  tombs 
of  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Kurna  (p.  309;  another  7  hrs.'  day). 

On  a  T.ONGER  Stat  the  traveller  will  wish  to  revisit  several  points, 
especially  the  temple  of  Amon  at  Karnak,  and  will  be  glad  to  devote 
more  time  to  the  monuments  on  the  W.  bank,  particularly  the  interesting 
tombs  of  Knrna.  MedamiU  (p.  281)  also  may  be  visited,  or  a  half-day  trip 
by  the  railway  (IV2  day  by  the  steamboat  mentioned  at  p.  252)  may  bo, 
taken  to  the  barrage  and  temple  of  Esneh  (p.  342)  and  the  temple  of  Edfu 
(p.  343).  Keneh  and  the  temple  of  i)eHdcjYf  as  well  a,s  Abydos  also  may  each 
be  visited  in  one  day  from  Luxor  by  the  railway.     To  Koseir,  see  p.  373. 

Kap.  The  best  map  of  this  district  is  Prof.  Schweinfurth'' s  Map  of  the 
Western  Environs  of  Luxor  and  Karnak  (1:25,000;  Berlin,  1909;  bs.). 

On  each  side  of  the  Nile  stretches  a  wide  belt  of  fertile  land, 
bounded  both  on  the  E.  and  W.  by  ranges  of  hills,  overtopped  by 
finely  shaped  peaks,  especially  on  the  E.,  where  the  ridge  retires 
farther  from  the  stream  than  on  the  W.  The  verdant  crops  and 
palms  which  everywhere  cheer  the  traveller  as  soon  as  he  has  quitted 
the  desert,  the  splendid  hues  that  tinge  the  valley  every  morning 
and  evening,  the  brilliant,  unclouded  snnshine  that  bathes  every 
object  even  in  the  winter-season,  lend  to  the  site  of  ancient  Thebes 
the  appearance  of  a  wonderland,  richly  endowed  with  the  gifts  of 
never-failing  fertility.  Most  of  the  ruined  temples  are  situated  in 
the  level  district  and  are  reached  by  the  waters  of  the  Nile  when 
the  inundations  are  at  their  highest;  while  the  tombs  are  hewn  in 
the  flanks  of  the  hills,  where  their  dark  openings  are  so  numerous, 
that  the  E.  slope  of  the  Libyan  range  might  be  aptly  compared  to 
a  piece  of  cork  or  to  a  honeycomb. 

On  the  right  (E.")  bank  lies  Luxor  (Luqsor).  now  a  town  of 
13,908  inhab.  (incl.  4598  Copts),  the  chief  tourist-centre  in  Upper 
Egypt.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  Arabic  El-KusUr  (pi.  of  EL- 
Ka^r)  and  means  'the  castles',  having  reference  to  the  extensive 
temple  within  which  part  of  the  place  once  lay.  Near  the  temple 
traces  of  antique  embankments  on  tlie  river  (PI.  A,  4)  and  of  a 
iiiloraeter  may  still  be  seen.  The  most  frequented  part  of  the  town 
is  the  new  Quay  extending  along  the  bank  of  the  Nile  in  a  S. 
direction  from  the  temple;  here  are  the  Winter  Palace  Hotel,  the 
Hotel  du  Nil,  and  many  shops.  On  the  E.  the  ShSri'  el-Mahatta, 
with  the  post-office,  runs  straight  to  the  railway  station  (p.  251). 
To  the  N.  of  the  town  lies  the  Zabtiyeh  Square  (PI.  C,  2),  an  open 
space  adorned  with  gardens,  which  contains  the  Police  Station  (Zab- 


254   Route  20.  THEBES.  History. 

tiyeh),  a  Mosque  (PI.  13),  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  the  Savoy 
and  Grand  Hotels. 

To  the  N.  of  Luxor  extend  the  immense  ruins  of  Kamak  (p.  262), 
connected  with  it  formerly  by  the  lanes  of  the  city,  now  by  a  broad 
street  planted  with  trees  (PI.  C,  D,  2,  1).  Evenunder  the  Pharaohs 
the  Temple  of  Amon,  the  chief  god  of  Thebes,  was  considered  the 
most  striking  creation  of  an  age  peculiarly  famous  for  architectural 
achievements.  To  this  day  few  other  buildings  in  the  world  can 
match  its  dimensions.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  another  extensive  temple- 
site  at  Medamut  (p.  281),  which  must  be  regarded  as  occupying  the 
site  of  a  suburb  of  Thebes. 

On  the  left  (W.)  bank  (p.  281)  was  the  Necropolis,  with  vaults  in 
the  rock  and  tombs  on  the  desert-soil,  adjoined  by  many  temples 
and  dwelling-houses.  Even  in  antiquity  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings 
(p.  284)  were  reckoned  among  the  chief  sights  of  ancient  Thebes. 

The  HisTOKY  of  Thebes  under  the  Ancient  Empire  is  veiled  in 
uncertainty.  The  Egyptian  name  for  the  town  was  Weset,  or  more 
shortly  Neivt,  'the  city',  whence  the  Scriptural  name  No  or  No-Amon 
(  'city',  'city  of  Amon').  The  W.  bank  was  known  as  'the  West  of 
Weset'  or  'the  West  of  the  city'.  No  satisfactory  explanation  has 
been  offered  of  why  the  Greeks  called  it  Thebes  (O-^pai),  a  name 
they  frequently  bestowed  upon  their  own  cities.  Among  the  Greeks 
the  town  was  known  also  as  AtoaTioXi?,  'city  of  Zeus'  (Amon), 
also  called  Diospolis  he  megale  or  Diospolis  Magna  to  distinguish  it 
from  Diospolis  Parva  or  Hou  (p.  244).  Weset  was  the  capital  of  a 
nome,  and  it  was  ruled  by  princes  of  its  own,  whose  tombs  (6th  Dyn.) 
were  discovered  at  Drah  Abu'l  Negga  (p.  283).  The  local  deity  was 
the  falcon-headed  Mont,  a  god  of  war,  who  was  worshipped  also  in 
the  neighbouring  town  of  Hermonthis.  Several  other  places  lay  near 
Weset  on  the  E.  bank}  among  these  were  Epet-Esowet  (the  modern 
Kamak)  and  South  Apet  (Luxor),  which  were  afterwards  incorporated 
with  the  great  'city'  and  subjected  to  the  same  governors. 

When  Theban  princes  assumed  the  royal  dignity  during  the 
Middle  Empire  Thebes  rose  to  a  more  commanding  position.  The 
city  was  adorned  with  temples,  amongst  which  the  large  shrines 
raised  in  Epet-Esowet  and  South  Apet  to  the  god  Amon  were  con- 
spicuous. But  the  greatness  of  Thebes  dates  only  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  New  Empire.  The  liberation  of  the  country  from  the 
Hyksos  and  the  reunion  of  the  empire  was  directed  from  Thebes, 
and  that  city  continued  for  centuries  to  be  the  favourite  seat  of  the 
Pharaohs,  and  the  reservoir  into  which  flowed  the  untold  treasures 
exacted  as  tribute  or  brought  as  booty  from  conquered  nations.  A 
large  share  of  this  wealth  was  bestowed  upon  Amon.  The  mag- 
nificent and  gigantic  temples  erected  at  this  period  to  the  god  are 
still  among  the  chief  sights  of  Thebes.  The  grandees  of  the  kingdom 
esteemed  it  an  honour  to  become  priests  of  Amon,  the  schools  be- 


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History.  THEBES.  W.  Route.   255 

side  his  temples  flourished,  and  the  Icings  offered  their  richest  gifts 
to  this  god.  The  fame  of  the  huge  city  early  reached  the  ears 
even  of  the  Greeks.  In  a  possibly  interpolated  passage  of  the  Iliad 
(ix.  379-384),  Achilles,  enraged  with  Agamemnon,  assures  Ulysses 
that  he  will  never  more  unite  in  council  or  in  deed  with  the  great 
Atrides :  — 

"Ten  times  as  much,  and  twenty  times  were  vain;  the  high  pil'd  store 
Of  rich  Myccna',  and  if  he  ransack  wide  earth  for  more, 
Search  old  Orchomenus  for  gold,  and  by  the  fertile  stream 
Where,  in  Egyptian  Thebes,  the  heaps  of  precious  ingots  gleam. 
The  hundred-gated  Thebes,  where  twice  ten  score  in  martial  state 
Of  valiant  men  with  steeds  and  cars  march  through  each  massy  gate." 

(Blackit^s  Translation.) 

The  epithet  £-/oiT6[j.:r'jXoc,  i.e.  'hundred-gated',  here  used  by 
Homer,  was  applied  also  by  later  classical  authors  to  Thebes.  Diodorus, 
Strabo,  Pliny,  and  Stephanus  of  Byzantium  all  make  use  of  it,  refer- 
ring to  the  gates  of  the  tOAvn  as  symbols  of  its  size  and  power.  The 
persecution  of  the  god  Anion  by  Auienophis  IV.  (^p.  cii)  and  the 
temporary  transference  of  the  royal  residence  to  Tell  el-'Amarna 
(p.  211)  affected  Thebes  but  slightly.  Its  ruined  temples  were  re- 
built under  Haremheb,  Sethos  I.,  and  Ramses  II.,  and  the  wealth  of 
the  god  became  greater  than  ever.  An  idea  of  the  endowments  of 
the  temple  of  Anion  may  be  gleaned  from  the  fact  that  under 
Kamses  IH.  more  than  2/3  of  the  landed  property  possessed  by  the 
temples  of  Egypt  belonged  to  it,  and  that  ^|^  of  the  gifts  lavished  by 
Ramses  III.  upon  the  gods  of  Egypt  fell  to  the  share  of  Amon,  so 
that,  for  example,  of  113,433  slaves,  no  fewer  than  86,486  were 
presented  to  the  Theban  deity.  Under  these  circumstances  it  was 
natural  that  the  arch -priests  of  Amon  should  gradually  grow  to 
regard  themselves  as  the  chief  persons  in  the  state ;  and  they  finally 
succeeded  in  usurping  the  throne  and  in  uniting  for  a  time  the 
royal  title  with  the  priestly  office.  But  the  sun  of  Thebes  began 
to  set  when  the  royal  residence  was  transferred  to  the  Delta  under 
the  princes  of  the  21st  Dynasty.  For  a  long  time,  however,  Thebes, 
with  a  large  part  of  Upper  Egypt,  formed  a  distinct  political  entity, 
governed  by  the  high-priests  of  Amon  and  more  or  less  indepen- 
dent of  the  kings  residing  in  the  N.  In  the  7th  cent.  B.C.  the  armies 
of  the  Assyrians  penetrated  as  far  as  Thebes  and  plundered  it ; 
the  Ethiopians  planted  their  rule  here  and  honoured  Amon  with 
buildings  and  inscriptions;  the  princes  of  the  26th  Dyn.  did  for 
Sais  what  the  princes  of  the  18th  and  19th  Dyn.  had  done  for  the 
city  of  Amon.  The  invading  army  of  Cambyses  ascended  as  far 
as  Upper  Egypt,  but  seems  to  have  done  little  or  no  damage  at 
Thebes.  Nektanebes,  one  of  the  native  Egyptian  princes  who  main- 
tained themselves  against  the  Persians,  added  a  gate  to  the  temple 
of  Mont.  Alexander  the  Great  and  the  princes  of  the  house  of  the 
Lagidae  probably  found  Thebes  still  a  great  though  decadent  city, 
and  they  assisted  to  embellish  it,  as  many  buildings  dating  from 


256    Route  20.  THEBES.  History. 

the  period  of  the  Ptolemies  still  attest.  The  town  of  Ptolema'is 
(p.  221),  founded  and  endowed  with  many  privileges  by  Ptolemy  I., 
soon  became  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt,  and  rapidly  proved  a 
dangerous  rival  to  the  ancient  metropolis.  For  a  brief  interval 
Thebes,  though  politically  and  economically  weakened,  recovered 
its  independence  under  native  princes,  by  putting  itself  at  the  head 
of  the  revolt  in  Upper  Egypt  under  Epiphanes  against  the  Mace- 
donian domination.  But  the  rebellion  was  speedily  crushed  and 
Thebes  once  more  reduced  to  the  rank  of  a  provincial  town.  Its 
decline  steadily  continued  and  the  great  city  gradually  became  a 
mere  congeries  of  village;^.  Under  Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II.  it  again  re- 
belled, but  after  a  siege  of  three  years  was  captured  and  destroyed. 
In  spite  of  its  evil  fate  it  once  more  revolted,  taking  part  in  tlie 
Upper  Egyptian  insurrection  in  30-29  B.C.  against  the  oppressive 
taxation  of  the  Romans.  Cornelius  Gallus,  the  prefect  (p.  ex),  over- 
threw the  rebels  and  utterly  destroyed  the  town.  Strabo,  who  visited 
Egypt  in  '24  B.C.,  found  only  scattered  villages  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  city.  Thenceforward  Thebes  is  mentioned  only  as  a  goal  of 
inquisitive  travellers,  who  under  the  Roman  emperors  were  attracted 
to  the  Nile  by  two  monuments  in  particular  —  the  pyramids  and 
the  musical  colossus  of  Memnon  on  the  W.  bank  at  Thebes. 

The  introduction  of  Christianity  and  the  edicts  of  Theodosius 
were  followed  by  the  destruction  of  many  pagan  statues  and  the 
obliteration  of  many  pagan  inscriptions.  The  Nile,  which  annually 
overflowed  as  far  as  the  temple  of  Karnak,  and  the  saline  exudations 
of  the  soil  wrought  harm ;  many  tombs  were  converted  into  peasants' 
dwellings;  Christian  churches  and  convents  were  erected  in  the 
temple-halls,  and  houses  were  built  between  the  columns  of  the 
temple  at  Luxor.  Carefully  hewn  blocks  and  slabs  were  removed 
from  the  monuments,  which  were  used  as  quarries,  and  many  lime- 
stone details  were  thrown  into  the  furnace  and  reduced  to  lime. 


THEBES  (E.  BANK).  20.  Route.    257 


A.  THE  EAST  BANK  AT  THEBES. 


1.  The  Temple  of  Luxor. 

The  main  eutrauce  to  the  (emple  hy  the  great  pylou  (p.  258j  is  now 
closed.  We  therefore  leave  the  pylon  to  the  last  and  proceed  from  the 
road  on  the  bank  of  the  river  to  the  court  of  Amonophis  III.  (p.  260), 
whence  we  visit  the  older  parts  of  the  sanctuary  (I>-X;  pp.  260,  261).  Wc 
tlien  return  to  the  court  and  proceed  through  the  colonnade  (p.  259)  to 
the  court  of  Eamses  II.  {p.  2.59).  Admission-tickets  (p.  200)  must  not  be 
forgotten.  In  the  follovi^intr  description,  however,  the  pylon  is  mentioned 
lirst. 

To  the  S.  of  the  town  and  close  to  the  hank  of  the  Nile  rises 
the  imposing  — 

•'Temple  of  Luxor  (PI.  A,  B,  3,  4),  which  still  contains  the  little 
mosque  of  Ahu"l  Haggag  within  its  N.  part.  The  temple  was  built 
liy  Amenophis  III.  (18th  Dyn.;  p.  cii)  on  the  site  of  an  older 
sanctuary  of  sandstone,  and  was  dedicated  to  Amon,  his  wife  or 
daughter  Mat,  and  their  son,  the  moon -god  Khons.  Like  all 
Egyptian  temples,  it  included  the  sanctuaries  with  their  adjoin- 
ing rooms,  a  large  hypostyle  hall,  and  an  open  peristyle  court.  The 
last  was  to  have  been  preceded  by  a  large  hypostyle  hall  with  sev- 
eral aisles,  but  only  the  central  rows  of  columns  had  been  erected 
at  the  death  of  the  king.  The  temple  was  then  208  yds.  in  length, 
while  its  greatest  breadth  was  (JO  yds.  Opposite  the  temple  was  a 
granite  (-hapel,  erected  by  Thutmosis  111.  During  the  religions  revo- 
lution under  Amenophis  IV.  (comp.  p.  255)  the  representations  and 
name  of  Amon  were  obliterated,  and  a  sanctuary  of  the  'Sun'  was 
built  beside  the  temple.  Tut-enkh-Amun  (p.  cii)  transferred  the 
royal  residence  back  to  Thebes,  and  caused  the  unfinished  great 
hypostyle  hall  to  be  hastily  completed  and  the  walls  to  be  decorated 
with  reliefs  (p.  260),  in  which  Haremheb  afterwards  substituted 
his  own  name  for  that  of  his  predecessor.  The  'Temple  of  the  Sun' 
was  destroyed,  and  in  the  reign  of  Sethos  the  figures  of  Amon 
were  restored.  Ramses  II.,  the  greatest  builder  among  the  Pharaohs, 
could  not  refrain  from  adding  to  the  temple  at  Luxor,  He  added  a 
large  colonnaded  court  in  front  of  the  completed  temple;  he  'usurped' 
the  ancient  chapel  of  Thutmosis  111.  and  replaced  the  old  reliefs 
with  new  ones;  and  he  erected  a  massive  pylon,  the  entrance  of 
which  was  formed  next  the  chapel  of  Tluitmosis,  so  that  the  longer 
axis  of  the  main  temple  was  altered.  The  total  length  of  the  temple 
was  now  284  yds.  Later  centuries  brought  few  alterations  to  the 
temple  of  Luxor.  After  the  introduction  of  Christianity  it  was  con- 
verted into  a  church.  A  modern  wall  on  the  side  Tiext  the  river 
protects  it  against  damage  from  inundation. 


258   Route  'JO. 


THEBES  (E.  BANK). 


1.  Temple 


In  front  of  the  principal  Pylon 
(PI.  P-F)  of  the  temple  were  six 
Colossal  Statites  of  Ramses  II. ,  two 
sitting  and  four  standing,  of  which 
only  the  two  sitting  and  the  western- 
most of  the  others  are  now  in  position. 
The  sitting  figures  are  about  45  ft. 
in  height;  that  on  the  E.  is  buried 
breast-high  in  rubbish.  In  front 
of  these  seated  figures  rose  two 
Obelisks  of  pink  granite,  erected 
on  the  occasion  of  a  jubilee  of  Ram- 
ses II.,  one  of  which  (the  W.)  has 
adorned  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  at 
Paris  since  1836.  The  inscriptions 
name  Ramses  the  Pliaraoh ,  with 
many  pretentious  titles, as  the  found- 
er of  this  gorgeous  building  erected 
in  honour  of  Amon  in  S.  Apet. 

The  exterior  walls  of  the  pylons 
are  adorned  with  Reliefs  en  creux 
referring  to  the  campaign  against 
the  Hittites,  which  Ramses  II.  car- 
ried on  in  Syria  in  the  5th  year  of 
his  reign.  They  have  suffered  se- 
verely from  the  hand  of  time  and  at 
several  places  are  almost  oblitera- 
ted. On  the  Right  (W.)  Tower,  to 
the  left,  the  king  on  his  throne 
holds  a  council  of  war  with  his 
princes;  in  the  middle  is  the  camp, 
fortified  by  the  shields  of  the  sol- 
diers arranged  side  by  side  and 
attacked  by  the  Hittites;  to  the 
right,  the  king  in  his  chariot  dashes 
into  the  fray.  —  The  scenes  on  the 
Left  (E.)  Tower  plunge  us  into 
the  battle;  the  king  in  his  chariot 
dashes  against  his  foes  who  have 
surrounded  him ,  and  launches  his 
arrows  against  them.  The  field  is 
strewn  with  the  dead  and  wounded, 
while  the  Hittites  flee  in  wild  con- 
fusion to  the  fortress  of  Kadesh, 
whence  fresh  troops  issue.  Farther 
to  the  left  Kadesh,  girt  with  water, 
appears,  with  the  defenders  on  the 


of  Luxor.  THEBES  (E.  BANK").  ?0.  Eoute.    259 

battlements.  Remote  from  the  battlefield,  to  the  extreme  left,  the 
prince  of  the  Hittites  stands  in  his  chariot,  surrounded  by  his 
guards,  and  'fears  before  his  majesty'.  —  Below  the  reliefs  on  the 
W.  tower  is  a  long  poetical  description  of  the  battle  of  Kadesh, 
inscribed  in  vertical  lines.  It  is  continued  on  the  E.  tower,  where, 
however,  the  text  is  still  partly  concealed  by  rubbish. 

Oa  the  front  of  each  tower  of  the  pylon  are  two  large  vertical 
grooves  for  the  reception  of  flag-staffs,  and  above  these  are  large 
square  apertures  to  receive  the  braces  securing  the  flag-staffs  and 
loopholes  to  admit  light  and  air  to  the  interior.  The  portal  between 
the  towers  is  buried  in  rubbish  and  in  a  very  ruinous  condition. 
The  reliefs  represent  Ramses  II.  in  presence  of  the  chief  deities  of 
the  temple.  The  carvings  in  the  doorway,  in  somewhat  high  relief, 
date  from  the  reign  of  the  Ethiopian  king  Shabako. 

Beyond  the  principal  pylon  (though  not  accessible  from  this 
side,  comp.  p.  257)  lies  the  great  Court  of  Ramses  II,  (PI.  A), 
which  was  entirely  surrounded  by  a  double  row  of  papyrus-columns 
(74  in  all),  with  bud-capitals  and  smooth  shafts.  It  meastires 
187  ft.  in  length  and  167  ft.  in  breadth,  but,  owing  to  the  presence 
of  a  mosque  (p.  257),  only  the  W.  and  S.  sides  have  been  laid  bare. 
On  a  platform  in  the  N.W.  corner  lies  an  ancient  Chapel  (PI.  TA), 
built  by  Thutmosis  III.  and  restored  by  Ramses  II.  It  contains 
three  chambers,  of  which  that  in  the  centre  was  dedicated  to  Amon, 
that  on  the  W.  to  Mut,  and  that  on  the  E.  to  Khons,  each  con- 
taining the  sacred  bark  of  the  god.  On  the  side  facing  the  court 
it  had  a  small  colonnade  of  four  clustered  papyrus-columns  in  red 
granite. 

The  Walls  of  the  court  arc  covered  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions, 
including  sacrificial  scenes,  hymns  to  the  gods,  representations  of 
conquered  nations,  etc.,  most  of  which  date  from  the  reign  of  Ram- 
ses II.  The  relief  on  the  S.W.  wall  (PI.  Y)  shows  the  facade  of 
the  temple  of  Luxor,  with  the  pylons  and  flag-staffs,  the  colossal 
statues,  and  the  obelisks,  while  from  the  right  approaches  a  pro- 
cession, headed  by  the  princes  and  followed  by  garlanded  animals 
for  sacrifice.    (The  scene  is  continued  on  the  W.  wall.) 

The  S.  half  of  the  court  is  further  embellished  with  standing 
Colossi  of  Ramses  II.,  placed  between  the  columns  in  the  first  row. 
These,  with  the  exception  of  one  in  black  granite,  are  wrought  in 
red  granite  and  average  23  ft.  in  height.  The  finest  (PI.  a)  is  17'/.>  ft. 
high  ;  the  crown,  carved  from  a  separate  block,  has  fallen  off;  on 
the  pedestal  and  apron  is  the  name  of  Ramses  II.  On  each  side 
of  the  S.  doorway  is  another  colossal  figure  of  the  king  in  black 
granite,  seated  with  the  queen  by  his  side. 

On  the  S.side  this  court  is  adjoined  by  a  Colonnade  (PI.  B),  which 
was  originally  intended  as  the  beginning  of  an  immense  hypostyle 
hall  (comp.  p.  257).    The  colonnade  is  in  fairly  good  preservation 


260   Route  20.  THEBES  fE.  BANK).  /.  TempU 

and  contributes  essentially  to  the  digiiifled  appearance  of  the  ruins 
of  Luxor  when  viewed  from  the  river.  Seven  couples  of  papyrus- 
columns,  about  52  ft.  in  height,  with  calyx-capitals,  still  support 
a  heavy  architrave  above  a  lofty  abacus.  The  whole  was  built  by 
Amenophis  III.,  but  Tut-enkh-Amun  (p.  257),  Haremheb,  Sethosl., 
Ramses  II.,  and  Sethos  II.  have  likewise  recorded  their  names  upon 
it.  The  walls  on  each  side  of  the  colonnade  were  embellished  by 
Tut-enkh-Amun  (whose  name  was  later  replaced  by  that  of  his 
successor,  Haremheb)  with  fine  reliefs,  representing  the  great  festival 
celebrated  at  Luxor  on  New  Year's  Day,  On  that  day  the  sacred 
boats  of  the  gods  were  brought  by  the  Nile  from  Karnak  to  Luxor, 
borne  into  the  temple  at  Luxor,  and  returned  to  Karnak  in  the 
evening.  The  procession  is  here  depicted  in  a  realistic  manner 
in  all  its  interesting  details ,  though  unfortunately  a  large  part  of 
the  reliefs  has  perished  with  the  ruined  upper  part  of  the  walls. 
The  series  begins  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  colonnade  and  ends  at 
the  N.E.  corner. 

The  (second)  Court  of  Amenophis  III.  (PI.  C),  which  visitors 
actually  enter  first,  is  49  yds.  deep  and  56  yds.  broad,  and  had 
double  rows  of  columns  on  three  sides.  The  columns  are  clustered 
papyrus-columns  with  bud-capitals ;  the  E.  and  W.  rows,  with  the 
architrave,  are  in  excellent  preservation.  —  The  remaining  (S.) 
side  of  this  court  is  adjoined  by  the  — 

Pronaos  or  Vestibule  of  the  temple  proper  (PI.  D),  the  roof  of 
which  wa  s  borne  by  32  clustered  papyrus-columns  arranged  in  4  rows 
of  8.  The  reliefs  on  the  E.  wall  show  Amenophis  III.  before  the 
gods  of  Thebes ;  at  the  foot  of  the  wall  are  personifications  of  the 
Egyptian  nomes,  bearing  gifts.  To  the  left  stands  an  Altar,  dedi- 
cated to  the  Emperor  Constantino,  with  a  Latin  inscription.  Ad- 
joining the  rear  wall  are  two  small  Chapels  (PI.  L  and  M)  and  a 
staircase  (PI.  N),  now  destroyed.  One  chapel  (L)  was  dedicated 
to  the  goddess  Mut,  the  other  (M)  to  the  moon-god  Khons.  —  A 
door  in  the  centre  of  the  rear  wall  admits  to  a  smaller  hall,  which 
originally  had  eight  columns  and  was  converted  into  a  Church 
(PI.  E)  in  the  Christian  period.  The  ancient  entrance  to  the  sanc- 
tuary-chambers has  here  been  altered  into  a  kind  of  apsidal  recess, 
bounded  on  the  right  and  left  by  two  granite  Corinthian  columns. 
At  a  few  points  the  Christian  whitewash  has  peeled  off,  permitting 
the  'heathen'  reliefs  of  Amenophis  III.  to  become  visible  again. 
Adjoining  the  church  are  several  small  rooms  (PI.  I  on  the  W., 
PI.  H  and  K  on  the  E.). 

We  return  to  the  Vestibule  and  quit  the  temple  by  a  door  on 
the  E.  side,  then  turn  to  the  right  and  re-enter  it  almost  immediately 
(three  doors)  to  inspect  the  Birth  Koom  (PI.  R),  the  roof  of  which 
rested  upon  three  clustered  columns.  The  room  owes  its  name  to  the 
Reliefs  on  the  W.  wall,  referring  to  the  divine  birth  of  Amenophis  III. 
The  reliefs  on  the  S.  wall  refer  to  his  accession  to  the  throne. 


of  Luxor.  THEBES  (  E.  BANK  ).  20.  fiowfe.   261 

West  Wall.  Lowest  Row  (from  left  to  right) :  1.  The  god  Ehnum  moulds 
two  infants  (Amenophis  III.  and  his  guardian-spirit)  upon  the  potter's 
wheel;  opposite  is  seated  Isis.  2.  Ehnum  and  Amon.  3.  Amon  and  Met- 
em-weye,  mother  of  Amenophis  III.,  seated  upon  the  hieroglyphic  symbol 
for  'heaven',  and  supported  by  the  goddesses  Selket  and  Neith.  4.  Amon 
conversing  with  Thout.  5.  The  king  and  Amon  (much  defaced).  6.  Isis 
(defaced)  embracint;  Queen  Blet-em-weye ;  to  the  right  stands  Amon.  —  Middle 
Row:  1.  Thout  foretells  to  Met-em-wcye  the  birth  of  her  son.  2.  The  preg- 
nant Met-em-weye  conducted  by  Isis  and  Khnum.  3.  Conlinement  of  Met- 
em-weye;  beside  and  beneath  the  coucli  are  Bet,  Toeris,  and  other  genii. 
4.  Isis  (defaced)  presents  the  new-born  prince  to  Anion.  5.  Amon  with  the 
child  in  his  arms;  beside  him  are  Hathor  and  Mut.  —  Top  Row:  1.  To 
the  left  is  the  queen,  with  the  goddess  Selket  seated  behind  her;  to  the 
right  two  goddesses  suckle  the  infant  prince  and  his  guardian-spirit;  below, 
the  prince  and  bis  guardian-spirit  suckled  by  two  cows.  2.  Nine  deities 
holding  the  prince.  3.  The  god  Hekew  (painted  blue)  carrying  the  prince 
and  his  guardian -spirit;  behind  is  the  Kile-god.  4.  Ilorus  hands  the 
prince  and  his  guardian-spirit  to  Amon.  5.  Khnum  and  Anubis.  6.  The 
prince  and  his  guardian-spirit  seated  and  standing  before  Amon.  7  (in 
the  corner),  Amenophis  as  king. 

From  the  Birth  Koom  we  enter  Room  Q,  the  roof  of  which  is 
supported  by  three  columns,  and  thence,  after  glancing  at  the  much 
damaged  reliefs,  we  pass  through  an  arched  doorway,  of  later  in- 
sertion, into  the  so-called  — 

Sanctuary  of  Alexander  the  Great  (PI.  G).  This  chamber  was 
practically  rebuilt  in  the  reign  of  Alexander.  The  original  four 
supporting  columns  in  the  centre  were  replaced  by  a  chapel  (open 
both  front  and  rear),  in  which  the  sacred  boat  of  Amon  was  pre- 
served. The  reliefs  covering  both  the  interior  and  exterior  walls  of 
the  chapel  represent  Alexander  before  Amon  and  his  fellow-gods ; 
those  on  the  walls  of  the  chamber  still  show  Amenophis  III.  before 
tlie  Theban  deities.  —  A  gap  in  the  wall  on  the  N.  side  of  the  sanc- 
tuary admits  us  to  a  small  square  Hall  (PI.  F),  with  four  clustered 
papyrus-columns.  The  wall-reliefs,  which  are  in  four  rows,  shovsr 
Amenophis  III.  before  Amon  and  other  Theban  deities.  The  ori- 
ginal door  hence  to  the  sanctuary  has  been  built  up. 

The  Rearmost  Rooms  of  the  temjile  are  of  comparatively  little  in- 
terest. From  the  Sanctuary  of  Alexander  we  pass  through  Room  S  (with 
12  columns)  into  the  Sancluary  (PI.  X),  the  ceiling  of  which  was  borne  by 
four  clustered  papyrus-columns.  A  relief  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  shows 
Atum  and  Horus  conducting  the  king  into  the  sanctuary.  The  other  reliefs 
represent  the  king  in  presence  of  Amon.  —  The  small  Room  F,  which  was 
probably  a  store-room  for  sacrificial  gifts ,  is  now  accessible  only  from 
without  the  temple. 

We  now  proceed  to  inspect  the  Pylon  (p.  258).  On  the  way  thither 
the  traveller  should  not  omit  to  cast  a  glance  on  the  exterior  W.  -.^alls 
of  the  Court  and  Colonnade  of  Amenophis  III.  and  the  Court  of  Ramses  II. 
(PI.  fc,  c,  d).  These  walls  were  embellished  by  Ramses  II.  with  reliefs 
of  scenes  from  his  Asiatic  campaigns. 

A  paved  street,  flanked  on  both  sides  mth  figures  of  recumbent 
rams,  each  with  a  small  image  of  Amenophis  111.  in  front  of  it,  led 
to  the  N.  from  this  temple  to  the  temples  of  Karnak.  The  avenue  of 
sphinxes  beside  the  temple  of  Khons  at  Karnak  (p.  262)  is  a  rem- 
nant of  (his  street. 


262   Route  20.  THEBES  [E.  BANK).  2.  Kamak: 

2.  Earnak. 

Guides,  Carriages,  and  DonkeySy  see  p.  252.  —  Hurried  travellers  shonld 
see  the  Temple  of  Khons  and  the  main  portions  of  the  great  Temple  of 
Amon.  Carriages  and  riding-animals,  which  the  visitor  quits  at  the  1st  pylon 
(p.  266),  shonld  be  ordered  to  meet  him  at  the  7th  or,  if  the  Temple  of 
iVIut  is  also  to  be  visited,  at  the  10th  pylon.  The  view  from  the  first  pylon 
of  the  Temple  of  Amon  (p.  266)  and  the  survey  of  the  great  Hypostyle 
Hall  (p.  268)  are  wonderfully  effective  by  moonlight. 

The  main  street  of  Luxor  is  prolonged  to  the  N.  of  the  Zabtiyeh 
Square  (p.  253)  by  a  good  road  (comp.  PI.  D,  1),  which  we  follow, 
passing  (right)  the  Summary  Tribunal  and  the  church  and  school  of 
the  American  Mission.  Beyond  a  small  bridge  we  skirt  the  Roman 
Catholic  cemetery  (left).  The  road  to  the  right,  passing  the  sacred 
lake  of  the  Temple  of  Mut  (p.  281)  and  crossing  the  railway,  leads 
to  Medamut  (p.  281),  while  that  to  the  left  runs  direct  to  the  village 
of  Kamak  with  the  great  Temple  of  Amon  and  the  house  of  the 
director  of  the  excavations  at  Karnak.  The  main  road,  straight 
ahead,  brings  us  to  the  Temple  of  Khons.  On  the  way  we  pass  the 
pedestals  of  numerous  recumbent  rams  (p.  261),  while  others  flank 
also  the  old  road  to  the  Temple  of  Mut  that  diverges  here. 

a.  Temple  of  Khons  and  Surrounding  Buildings. 

A  handsome  Portal,  erected  by  Euergetes  I.,  with  a  winged  sun-disk 
in  the  concave  cornice,  forms  the  S.W.  entrance  to  the  temple- 
precincts  of  Karnak,  which  were  enclosed  by  a  brick  wall.  The 
reliefs  represent  Euergetes  praying  and  sacrificing  to  the  Theban 
deities.  Beyond  this  portal  another  avenue  of  sphinxes,  erected  by 
Ramses  XII.,  the  last  of  the  Ramessides,  brings  us  to  the  beautiful  — 

Temple  of  Ehoas.  This  temple  was  dedicated  to  the  Theban 
moon-god  Khons ,  son  of  Amon  and  Mut,  and,  like  Ramses  III.'s 
temple  to  Amon  (p.  267),  may  be  regarded  as  a  characteristic 
example  of  an  Egyptian  sanctuary  under  the  New  Empire.  Ram- 
ses III.  reared  the  walls  of  this  temple,  but  placed  reliefs  only  in  the 
innermost  chambers;  the  completion  of  the  decoration  was  left  for 
Ills  successors  Ramses  IV.,  Ramses  XII.,  and  the  priest-king  Herihor, 
the  last  of  whom  built  also  the  court  (PI.  A). 

The  entrance  is  formed  by  a  large  Pylon  (PI.  P-P^,  105  ft.  In 
length,  33  ft.  in  breadth,  and  59  ft.  in  height.  Upon  the  front  may 
be  seen  the  four  vertical  grooves,  with  the  corresponding  apertures 
in  the  masonry,  used  in  fastening  the  flag-staffs.  The  reliefs  on 
the  towers  of  the  pylon  show  the  high-priest  Pinotem  I.  (21st  Dyn.) 
and  his  wife  Hent-tewe  sacrificing  to  various  Theban  deities.  In 
front  of  each  tower  lay  a  porch,  borne  by  columns  and  surmounted 
by  a  wooden  ceiling.  The  bases  of  the  columns  are  still  in  situ.  —  The 
central  portal  (with  reliefs  of  Alexander  II.)  admits  us  to  the  — 

Court  (PI.  A),  which  is  surrounded  on  two  sides  by  a  colonnade 
with  a  double  row  of  papyrus-columns  with  bud-capitals.    On  the 


Temple  of  Khons.     TTIEBES  (  E.  BANK! 


'20.  Route. 


261 


smooth  shafts  and  on  the   walls  arc  representations   of  Ilerihor 
olTering  sacrifices.    The  court  had  four  side-exits. 

On  the  right  (E.)  wall  is  a  noteworthy  relief:  Herihor  offers  incense 
before  the  sacred  boats  of  Amon  (with  the  ram's  head),  Mul  (with  the 
goddess's  head),  and  Khons  (with  the  falcon's  head).  To  the  right  is  a 
relief  of  the  facade  of  the  temple,   showin'^  the  pylon  with  its  flag-staffs. 

Tn  the  rear  of  the  court  is  a  ratnp  leading  to  the  Pronaos 
or  Vestibule,  which  is  borne  by  twelve  columns.  Beyond  this  lies  a 
Hypostyle  Hall  (PI.  B),  occupying  the  entire  breadth  of  the  build- 
ing. The  central  aisle  has  four 
papyrus-columns  with  calyx-cap- 
itals, while  the  two  side-aisles  on 
each  side,  which  are  5  ft.  lower, 
are  separated  by  two  columns 
with  bud-capitals.  On  the  walls 
and  columns  appears  Ramses  XII. 
sacrificing  to  various  deities. 

A  iloor  in  the  centre  of  the 
rear  wall  leads  to  the  Chapel 
(PI.  C),  which  is  open  at  both  ends 
and  was  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  building  by  an  Ambulatory 
(PI.  D)  10  ft.  wide.  In  the  chapel 
was  preserved  the  sacred  boat  of 
Khons.  The  reliefs  on  the  out- 
side of  the  walls  of  the  chapel 
represent  the  king  (Ramses  IV. 
and  Ramses  XIJ.)  before  various 
gods.  Blocks  bearing  represent- 
ations and  cartouches  of  Thut- 
mosis  III.  have  been  built  into 
the  walls  of  the  chapel. 

On  each  side  of  the  chapel 
lie  dark  chambers,  with  reliefs 
by  Ramses  IV.;  and  behind  it  a 
doorway  of  the  Ptolemaic  period 
admits  to  a  Small  Hall  (I'l.  E), 
with  4  sixteen -sided  columns. 
The  reliefs  in  this  hall  exhibit 
Ramses  IV.  (but  occasionally  also  the  Emp.  Augustus,  e.g.  on  each 
side  of  the  entrance)  before  the  Theban  gods.  Adjoining  are  seven 
Small  Chambers  (PI.  F-M),  with  reliefs  of  Ramses  III.  and  his 
successor.  In  Rooms  H  and  I  tlie  colours  are  particularly  well  pre- 
served; in  Room  M,  which  was  probably  dedicated  to  the  worship 
of  Osiris,  is  a  representation  of  tlie  dead  Osiris  upon  his  bier,  witli 
Isis  and  Nephthys  mourning  over  him. 

The  Temple  Roof,  which,  however,  is  at  present  inacces.^ible,  affords 
admirable  view  of  the  temples  of  Karnak.  ttn  the  roof  are  nuraerons 
Bakdekbb's  Kgypt.    7th  Kdit.  17 


264   Route  20.  THEBES  (E.  BANK)  2.  Rarnak  .- 

hieratic  inscriptions,    besides   representations   of  foot-prints,    placed   here 
by  pilgrims  to  the  temple. 

Adjoining  the  temple  of  Khons  on  the  S.W.  is  a  Temple  of 
Epet,  the  hippopotamus  -  goddess ,   erected  by  Euergetes  II. ;  the 
building  stands  upon  a  basis  about  10  ft.  in  height,  crowned  with 
a  concave  cornice.    The  keeper  of  the  temple  of  Khons  will  open  it 
on  request.    The  main  entrance  is  on  the  W.  side;   on  the  jambs 
appears  the  king  before  Osiris  and  other  deities.   We  enter  first  a 
Rectangular  Hall,  with  a  well-preserved  ceiling  resting  upon  two 
columns,  with  calyx-capitals  and  heads  of  Hathor  above  them.    The 
grated  windows  at  the  top  of  the  S.  wall  should  be  noted.    To  the 
right  lie  three  side-rooms  with  crypts;  the  door  on  the  left  is  built 
up.  —  We  proceed  through  the  central  door  into  a  Second  Hall, 
flanked  by  two  side-rooms,  of  which  that  to  the  left  contains  a  re- 
presentation of  the  dead  Osiris  upon  the  bier.    We  then  pass  through  j 
a  door,  on  the  right  jamb  of  which  appears  the  goddess  Epet,  and  1 
enter  the  Sanctuary,  where  a  figure  of  the  goddess  stood  in  a  niche.  • 
The  reliefs  show  us  the  king  (usually  Euergetes  II.)  before  the  gods.  [ 
—  In  the  E.  wall  of  the  temple  is  a   Chapel  of  Osiris  (separate  < 
entrance  on  the  E.  side),  constructed  by  Ptolemy  XIII,,  to  which 
belongs  the  shaft  issuing  from  the  sanctuary  of  the  Temple  of  Epet,  ' 
in  which  perhaps  a  relic  of  Osiris  was  buried. 


b.  The  Great  Temple  of  AMON.f 

From  the  Temple  of  Khons  we  proceed  in  the  direction  of  the 
Nile  and  soon  reach  the  first  pylon  of  the  great  temple  of  Amon. 
To  the  W,  of  this  is  the  house  of  the  director  of  the  excavations 
(M.  Georges  Legrain).  Direct  route  from  Luxor,  see  p.  262,  Donkeys 
and  carriages  must  be  left  at  the  door  to  the  W.  of  the  seventh  pylon 
(p.  279).  The  rectangular  terrace  in  front  of  the  first  pylon  was  even 
in  antiquity  covered  by  the  waters  of  the  inundation,  as  is  indicated 
by  marks  on  its  front,  recording  the  height  of  the  inundations  under 
the  21st-26th  dynasties.  On  the  terrace  rises  a  small  Obelisk  of  Se- 
thos  II.,  beside  which  is  the  base  of  its  companion.  An  avenue  of 
recumbent  rams,  erected  by  Ramses  II.,  extended  from  this  point 
to  the  portal  of  the  temple  of  Amon.  The  fragments  of  building 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  right  pylon-tower  belong  to  a  Chapel,  erected 
about  390  B.C.  by  King  Achoris  and  his  successor  Psamuthis.  In 
the  interior  Psamuthis  appears  on  the  right  and  left  walls,  offer- 
ing incense  to  the  boat  of  Amon. 


t  The  Great  Temple  of  Anion,  like  the  temples  on  the  left  bank 
(comp.  p.  281),  is  placed  with  its  longer  axis  at  right  angles  to  the  Nile. 
According  to  the  practice  of  Lepsius  and  other  Egyptologists,  we  consider 
the  Nile  as  flowing  from  S.  to  N.,  and  so  use  the  simple  expressions  W., 
N.,  E.,  S.,  whereas  geographical  accuracy  would  require  N.W.,  N.E..  S.E., 
and  S.W.     The  true  N.  is  indicated  on  our  plans  by  an  arrow. 


TEMPLE  OF  MONT 


tU33EQCCaC 

Aveni 

!  c  t  II  r  3 1;  i  ] 


J,  j;i,,i,j,  J.  SjifijdstonePprtal  of 


Avenue  Of  Sphin-xes    rfj^rfty    .^^^       -H-qr:  . 
EuST'getes  [;-..„.. -L-T 


Ptolemaic 
Templel 


Gate  of  Thutm.I. 


PLAN   @r  K\A^NJA\IC 

Ir-i-ooo 

O  too  200  300  *00  SCO  600 


Feet 

Cmi  Madej-n   Village 
■■  Ancient  Bjiilctutg^ 


Prom  aplanTjr  Mariette.-witti-addilioiis  by-  &.Legrain.. 


■      { 


JB 


ipleorf  Osiris 


Easteate 


W   a> 


Small  TempfeoF  Ramses  I. 


^m 


'V 


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'jdr 


^a''^'""""^r''""\^^  — r .-tiJ 


fe=!§ 


T.|ir,^...lL 


Vl'aj  i 


11  **      X         "1' 


f9 


I      Sacred       'I^JTIi 


v^ 


%       <^         Iff 

"■        I  G  i  rdle      Ws 


L 


UJI 


1^^=71   W 


S         3  |i'     .(".^ 


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^sTorOx 


Steps 


TempleofSethosl 


TriumpKlnscrof         'Si 
Sheshonk  I.     Reliefs  o 


Hi 


t'-^l- 


From,  a  plan  Ijy-llariette.^nfli.  additions  Itt  GLe^r 


Temple  of  Amon.      THEBES  (E.  BANKl.  20.  Route.   26b 

The  great  **Teinple  of  Amon  was  not  built  on  any  single  uni- 
form plan,  but  owes  its  present  form  to  the  building  activity  of 
many  successive  rulers  of  Egypt.  From  the  Middle  Empire  to  the 
Ptolemaic  period  most  of  the  Pharaohs  took  some  share  in  adding 
to  or  adorning  this  shrine,  rivalling  each  other  in  the  magnitude  of 
their  designs.  The  foundation  of  the  temple  must  be  dated  not 
later  than  the  first  monarchs  of  the  12th  Dynasty.  Amenophis  I. 
built  a  second  sanctuary  alongside  the  main  temple  of  the  Middle 
Empire,  but  this  was  again  removed  at  an  early  period  (p.  278). 
When  Thutmosis  I.  made  Thebes  the  capital  of  the  New  Empire 
the  original  modest  shrine  seemed  no  longer  worthy  of  the  dignity 
of  the  god,  and  the  king  therefore  built  round  the  temple  of  the 
Middle  Empire  a  large  court  which  was  bounded  on  the  W.  by  a 
pylon  (No.  V),  and  was  surrounded  inside  by  colonnades  with  statues 
of  Osiris.  At  a  later  date  he  erected  in  front  of  this  another  pylon 
(No.  IV)  with  an  enclosing  wall,  placed  two  obelisks  in  front  of  this, 
and  constructed  a  colonnade  between  the  two  pylons.  In  the  reign 
of  Hatsbepsut  alterations  and  additions  were  made  in  the  interior. 
In  front  of  the  temple  of  the  Middle  Empire,  in  the  court  of  Thut- 
mosisl.,  she  constructed  a  special  sanctuary,  and  in  the  colonnade  be- 
tween pylons  IV  and  V  she  erected  two  obelisks,  besides  practically 
rebuilding  the  colonnade  itself.  Her  brother  Thutmosis  HI.  continued 
these  alterations  when  he  became  sole  monarch.  He  tore  down  most 
of  the  colonnades  in  the  court  of  Thutmosis  I.  and  replaced  them 
with  a  series  of  small  chapels.  A  new  pylon  (No.  VI)  was  erected, 
and  the  court  between  this  and  the  building  of  Hatshepsut,  which 
had  been  embellished  with  a  vestibule,  was  adorned  with  colon- 
nades. The  colonnade  of  Thutmosis  I.,  between  pylons  IV  and  V, 
was  subjected  to  a  thoroughgoing  alteration,  the  main  object  of  which 
was  to  withdraw  the  obelisks  of  Hatshepsut  from  the  gaze  of  visitors 
of  the  temple.  Two  new  obelisks  were  raised  in  front  of  those  of 
Thutmosis  I.  About  twenty  years  later  the  king  continued  his  alter- 
ations of  the  temple  by  erecting  the  two  Halls  of  Records  and  the 
antechambers  between  pylons  V  and  VI.  To  the  reign  of  Thut- 
mosis III,  is  due  also  the  Great  Festal  Temple  (the  so-called  'Pro- 
menoir')  which  lies  to  the  E.,  i.e.  behind  the  main  temple.  Amen- 
ophis 111.  erected  a  new  pyloii  (No.  Ill)  on  the  main  front  of  the 
temple.  All  these  buildings  of  the  18th  Dynasty  were  thrown  into 
the  shade  by  the  erections  under  the  19th  Dynasty.  Ramses  I. 
raised  still  another  pylon  (No.  H),  and  Sethos  I.  and  Ramses  II. 
created  between  this  fifth  pylon  and  the  pylon  of  Amenophis  III. 
that  gigantic  Hypostyle  Hall  which  has  remained  ever  since  as 
one  of  the  chief  wonders  of  Egyptian  architecture.  Ramses  II. 
caused  also  a  second  girdle -wall  to  be  built,  outside  the  wall  of 
Thutmosis  111.  The  temple  now  seemed  to  have  received  its  final 
form.  The  temples  of  Sethos  11.  and  Ramses  111.  were  separate 
buildings,  erected  in  front  of  the  facade  of  the  great  sanctuary.    But 

17* 


266    Route  20.  THEBES  (E.  BANKl.  2.  Karvak  : 

the  Libyan  kings  of  Bubastis  (22nd  Dyn.)  revived  the  traditions  of 
the  ancient  Pharaohs.  A  huge  court,  with  colonnades  on  two  sides 
and  incorporating  half  of  the  temple  of  Ramses  III.,  was  built  by 
Shoshenk  in  front  of  the  pylon  of  Ramses  I.  Taharka,  the  Ethio- 
pian (26th  Dyn.),  afterwards  reared  a  kiosque-like  building  with 
colossal  columns  in  this  court.  The  temple  was  now  left  unaltered 
for  some  time,  but  under  the  Ptolemies  it  underwent  fresh  alter- 
ations (including  the  erection  of  the  granite  Chapel  of  Philip)  and 
received  its  final  great  pylon  (No.  I).  Its  decay  began  in  the  time  of 
the  Roman  emperors  (p.  256).  —  Extensive  excavations  and  restor- 
ations have  been  very  successfully  accomplished  since  1895  by  the 
French  archaeologist,  M.  Georges  Legrain  (p.  264),  working  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Egyptian  Service  des  Antiquit^s. 

The  *First  Pylon  is  still  370  ft.  wide ,  with  walls  49  ft.  thick 
and  1421/2  ft.  high.  This  gigantic  portal,  which  dates  from  the 
Ptolemies,  was  never  completed ;  and  portions  of  the  scaffolding, 
constructed  of  crude  bricks,  remain  to  this  day.  —  The  inscrip- 
tions on  the  door  of  the  pylon  merit  notice.  The  one  on  the  right, 
high  up,  placed  there  by  the  savants  who  accompanied  the  army  of 
Napoleon  to  Egypt  in  1799,  records  the  latitude  and  longitude  of 
the  chief  temples  of  the  Pharaohs,  as  calculated  by  them;  opposite, 
on  the  left,  is  one  erected  by  an  Italian  learned  society  (Feb.  9th, 
1841),  showing  the  variation  of  the  compass  as  10'56". 

A  magnificent  *Vlew  is  enjoyed  from  the  top,  which  is  reached 
by  a  staircase  on  the  N.  tower  (comp.  p.  267).  It  is  interesting  to 
seek  to  identify,  with  the  aid  of  the  accompanying  plan,  the  various 
columns,  obelisks,  and  pillars,  though  at  first  we  seem  to  see  noth- 
ing but  a  confused  system  of  ruins. 

The  *Great  Court,  built  by  the  rulers  of  the  22nd  Dynasty,  is 
276  ft.  deep  and  338  ft.  wide.  On  each  side  is  a  row  of  columns, 
that  on  the  right  (S.)  being  interrupted  by  the  temple  of  Ramses  III. 
(see  p.  267).    To  the  left  stands  the  small  — 

Temple  of  Sethos  II.,  built  of  grey  sandstone,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  door-frames  and  the  lower  part  of  the  walls,  for  which 
a  reddish  qtiartzose  sandstone  has  been  used.  The  temple  has  three 
chapels,  of  which  that  in  the  centre,  dedicated  to  Amon,  and  that 
on  the  left,  dedicated  to  Mut,  are  filled  with  rubbish.  The  third 
chapel  is  that  of  Khons;  on  the  walls  the  king  is  represented  before 
the  boat  of  Khons,  which  is  decorated  with  falcons'  heads,  and 
before  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons. 

Beside  the  Temple  of  Sethos  II.,  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  court,  are 
a  number  of  recumbent  rams,  which  were  stored  here  in  antiquity.  They 
belonged  to  the  Sphinx  Avenue  of  Ramses  II.  (p.  264),  which  led  to  the 
second  pylon,  and  were  removed  on  the  erection  of  the  various  buildings 
in  the  great  court. 

In  the  centre  of  the  great  court  are  two  large  Pedestals  for  sta- 
tues (that  on  the  right  retains  its  base  only).  Behind  was  the 
Kiosque  of  Taharka;  of  the  original  ten  columns  there  still  stand 


Temple  of  Anion.       THEBES  (^E.  BANK).  20.  Route.   261 

five  brokea  shafts  on  the  left  side  and  one  complete  column  (with 
calyx-capital  and  abacus)  on  the  right.  This  structure  had  a  door  on 
each  of  its  four  sides  ;  in  front  of  the  W.  door  is  a  recumbent  sphinx. 

Tpon  the  complete  coluum,  ou  the  right,  Psamiuetichos  II.  (26th  Dyn.) 
has  placed  his  name  over  that  of  the  Ethiovian  Taharka  (25th  Dyn.);  be- 
.side  it  is  the  name  of  Ptolemy  IV.  Philojiator,  which  appears  also  on  the 
abacus.  The  shaft  is  composed  of  25  coirses  of  carefully  hewn  stone,  the 
capital  iif  5  courses.  The  height  is  69  ft.;  the  greatest  breadth  of  the 
capital  16  ft.,  the  circumference  at  the  top  49  ft.  The  columns  were  united 
by  means  of  stone  screens,  dating  from  the  reign  of  Philopator. 

A  duor  in  the  N.  walk  of  the  colonnade  surrounding  the  great  court 
leads  out  of  the  temple,  and  from  this  point  we  may  skirt  the  outer  wall 
to  the  left  to  the  steps  leading  to  the  top  of  the  First  Pylon  (see  p.  266). 

To  the  right,  facing  the  great  court,  is  the  *Temple  of  Ram- 
ses III.,  which  was  dedicated  to  Amon.  It  is  perhaps  the  best  ex- 
taut  specimen  of  a  simple  Egyptian  temple,  built  throughout  ou  a 
single  homogeneous  plan.   Its  total  length  is  170  ft. 

The  Pylon  with  the  entrance-door,  which  has  two  statues  of  the 
king,  is  much  injured,  especially  at  the  top.  On  the  exterior  of  the 
left  tower  (E.)  Ramses  III.,  with  the  double  crown,  smites  a  band 
of  prisoners  with  his  club.  Amon,  in  front  of  him,  hands  him  the 
sword  of  victory  and  delivers  to  him  chained  together  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  vanquished  peoples,  who  appear  in  three  rows.  In 
the  two  upper  rows  are  the  conquered  nations  of  the  south,  in  the 
third  row  those  of  the  north.  On  the  right  wing  are  similar  repre- 
sentations, the  king  here  wearing  the  crown  of  I^ower  Egypt.  In  the 
doorway  Ramses  III.  receives  from  Amon  the  symbol  of  life,  etc. 

Beyond  the  pylon  is  an  open  Court,  flanked  by  covered  passages. 
The  roofs  of  these  passages  are  each  supported  by  eight  pillars, 
against  which  lean  colossal  figures  of  Ramses  III.  as  Osiris. 

On  the  rear  walls  of  the  pylon-towers,  facing  the  court,  are  represent- 
ations of  Ramses  III.  receiving  from  Amon  the  hieroglyphic  for  'jubilee', 
as  a  sign  that  the  king  would  yet  celebrate  many  jubilees.  —  The  walls 
of  the  colonnades  are  embellished  with  reliefs :  in  the  E.  arcade,  the  pro- 
cession of  the  sacred  boat  of  Amon ;  in  the  W.  arcade,  a  procession  with 
the  statue  of  the  ithyphallic  Amon,  borne  by  priests  and  accompanied  by 
standard-bearers.  —  The  architraves  bear  llorid  dedicatory  inscriptions, 
recording  that  Ramses  III.  erected  this  monument  in  honour  of  his  father 
Amon.  —  A  door  in  the  left  colonnade  opens  into  the  Portico  of  the 
Bubastides  (p.  263) ;  and  one  in  the  right  colonnade  (now  built  up)  ad- 
mitted to  the  8.  colonnade  of  the  great  court. 

The  court  is  adjoined  by  the  Vestibule  or  Pronaos  of  the  temple, 
which  latter  is  on  a  higher  level.  It  is  supported  in  front  by  four 
Osiris-pillars,  and  in  the  rear  by  four  columns  with  bud-capitals. 
The  pillars  arc  united  by  stone  screens  adorned  with  reliefs. 

From  the  vestibule  a  door  leads  into  a  Hypostyle  Hall,  with  eight 
columns  with  bud-capitals.  Adjoining  are  three  Cliapels,  dedicated 
respectively  to  Amon  (in  tlie  middle),  Mut  (left),  and  Khons  (^right), 
and  each  containing  representations  of  the  king  sacrificing  to  the 
boat  of  the  respective  god.  Beside  the  chapel  of  Khons  is  another 
chamber,  and  beside  the  chapel  of  Mnt  is  a  staircase,  while  beyond 
the  chapel  of  Amon,  ou  each  side,  is  a  chamber. 


268   Route  W.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  •>.  Karaak  : 

From  the  court  of  the  Temple  of  Ramses  we  pass  through  the  E. 
door  to  the  Portico  of  the  Bubastides^  situated  at  the  S.E.  corner  of 
the  great  court.  This  portico  was  embellished  with  reliefs  and  in- 
scriptions by  the  kings  of  the  22nd  Dynasty. 

The  following  reliefs  may  be  particularized.  To  the  left  (E. ;  on  the 
projecting  wall),  above:  Amon  hands  King  Osorkon  I.  the  curved  sword 
and  the  palm-branch  (symbol  of  long  life);  below  :  Khnum  holds  the  hiero- 
glyph for  'life'  to  the  king's  nose;  Hathor  gives  milk  to  the  king.  —  Right 
(W.)  Wall:  Takelothis  II.  and  his  son  Osorkon,  the  high-priest  of  Amon, 
before  Amon.    Below  is  a  long  inscription. 

We  return  to  the  great  court  and  proceed  to  tlie  dilapidated  — 

Second  Pylon  of  Ramses  I.  The  tower  on  the  right,  with  four 
long  grooves  for  the  flag-staft's,  has  been  freed  from  the  ruins  of 
later  buildings.which  were  erected  in  front  of  it  out  of  the  materials 
of  a  temple  of  the  heretical  period  (comp.  p.  cii).  The  left  tower  is 
to  be  laid  bare  later.  In  the  centre  is  the  huge  portal.  On  the  S. 
side  of  the  right  tower  appears  Ramses  II.  defeating  his  foes  in  pre- 
sence of  Amon.  In  front  of  the  portal  was  a  kind  of  small  Vestibule, 
the  entrance  to  which  was  flanked  by  two  statues  of  Ramses  II.  Tlie 
figure  on  the  right  side  still  stands;  only  the  legs  of  the  other  figure 
remain.  In  the  doorway,  where  the  cartouches  of  Ramses  I.,  Sethos  I., 
and  Ramses  II.  are  found,  an  intervening  door  was  erected  by  Pto- 
lemy VI.  Philometor  and  Ptolemy  IX.  Euergetes  II.,  during  their  joint 
reign.  The  lintel  of  this  doorway  is  wanting,  but  the  jambs  are  in 
good  preservation,  with  reliefs  showing  the  king  sacrificing  to  the 
gods  of  the  temple.  On  the  inner  side  (left)  of  the  earlier  doorway, 
at  the  foot,  are  the  sacred  boat  of  Amon  and  the  king  entering  the 
temple.  In  the  second  row  from  the  foot  appears  Ramses  II.  kneeling 
before  Amon  and  holding  the  symbol  of  jubilee,  indicative  of  long 
reign.  Behind  stands  the  goddess  Mut,  while  Khons,  with  the  moon's 
disk  on  his  head,  conducts  Philometor  to  behold  the  god  Amon.  Prob- 
ably the  representation  is  a  restoration  by  Philometor  of  an  older  work 
on  the  same  spot.  The  other  rows  exhibit  the  king  in  presence  of 
various  deities.  —  We  next  enter  the  — 

**Grreat  Hypostyle  Hall,  which  was  justly  considered  orte  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world.  It  has  recently  been  restored  and  freed  from 
rubbish  by  the  Egyptian  Service  des  Antiquites,  under  the  direction 
of  M.  Legrain.  Though  a  certain  picturesque  effect  due  to  the  former 
ruinous  condition  has  necessarily  been  lost,  the  huge  hall  is  still 
extraordinarily  impressive  as  we  look  southwards  from  the  N.  side 
through  the  rows  of  columns.  This  is  especially  the  case  in  the 
morning  or  evening,  or  by  moonlight,  when  the  columns  cast  ^in- 
tense black  shadows. 

The  breadth  of  this  great  hall  is  338  ft.,  its  depth  170  ft.,  and 
its  area  6000  sq,  yds.,  an  area  spacious  enough  to  accommodate  the 
entire  church  of  Notre  Dame  at  Paris.  The  roof  was  supported  by 
134  columns  arranged  in  16  rows,  of  which  the  two  central  rows 


Temple  of  Anion.       THEBES  (^E.  BANK).  -20.  lioule.    269 

are  higher  than  tbo  others  and  consist  of  papyrus-columns  with 
calyx-capitals,  while  the  other  rows  have  clustered  columns  with 
bnd-capitals.  The  hall  is  divided  into  nave  and  aisles.  The  nave, 
itself  divided  into  three  aisles,  is  ca.  79  ft.  in  height.  The  roof  is 
supported  by  the  two  central  rows  of  columns  and  one  of  the  lower 
rows  on  each  side,  the  deflcieni-y  in  the  height  of  the  latter  being 
met  by  placing  square  pillars  above  them.  The  spaces  between 
these  pillars  were  occupied  by  windows  with  stone  lattice -work 


Hypostyle  Hall  of  Karnak  (reconstruction,  sfter'jraspero). 

Tone  on  the  S.  side  is  still  almost  perfect).  The  side-aisles  are 
33  ft.  lower  than  the  nave. 

The  columns  are  not  nionnlithic  but  are  built  up  of  semi-drnnip, 
o'/z  ft.  in  heiuht  and  6"2  ft.  in  diameter.  The  material  is  a  reddish-brown 
sandstone.  Each  of  the  twelve  columns  in  the  two  central  rows  is  IIV4  ft.  in 
diameter  and  upwards  of  33  ft.  in  circumference,  i.e.  as  thick  .-'S  Trajan's 
Column  in  Rome  or  the  Vendome  Column  in  Paris.  It  requires  six  men 
with  outstretched  arms  to  span  one  of  the.se  huge  columns.  Their  hetRht 
is  69  ft.,  that  of  the  canital.s  11  ft.  The  remaining  122  columns  are  each 
42V2  ft.  in  heiglit  and  27V2  ft.  in  circumference. 

To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  frame  of  a  large  memorial 
stone' of  Ramses  II.,  in  front  of  which  lies  an  alabaster  slab  with  a 
representation  of  .subject  races  (negroes  and  A.siatics);  to  the  left  of 
the  door  arc  colossal  statues  of  Araon  and  Ramses  II. 


270   Route  'JO.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  2.  Karnak: 

The  walls  of  the  hall,  the  shafts  of  the  columns,  the  abaci,  and 
the  architrave  are  covered  with  inscriptions  and  reliefs,  many  of 
which  still  retain  their  ancient  colouring.  These  date  from  the 
reigns  of  Sethos  I.  and  Ramses  II. ,  the  former  of  whom  buUt 
the  N.  half  of  the  hall  (as  far  as  the  10th  row  of  columns),  the 
latter  the  S.  half.  Only  a  single  column  (the  first  in  the  6th  row) 
bears  the  names  of  Ramses  I.  Ramses  III.,  Ramses  IV.,  Ram- 
ses VI.,  and  Ramses  XII.  have  likewise  recorded  their  names.  The 
scenes  on  the  columns  show  the  king  adoring  the  gods  of  Thebes. 
Those  by  Sethos  I.  are  in  delicate  low  relief,  those  by  Ramses  II. 
in  ruder  sunk  relief.  Among  the  beautiful  Reliefs  of  Sethos  I. 
(Plan  a,  6,  c)  the  finest  is  that  on  the  E.  half  of  the  N.  wall 
(PI.  i).  We  here  see  the  king  kneeling  before  the  god  Harakhte, 
who  is  seated  beneath  a  canopy,  while  behind  the  king  stands  the 
lion -headed  goddess  Wert-hekew  holding  a  palm-branch,  from 
which  hang  various  symbols.  To  the  left  the  king  kneels  beneath 
the  sacred  tree  of  Heliopolis,  on  whose  leaves  the  god  Thout  is  in- 
scribing his  majesty's  name.  Among  the  Reliefs  of  Ramses  II.  those 
to  the  right  and  left  of  the  S.  side-door  are  worth  noticing.  To  the 
right  Ramses  II.  is  represented  burning  incense  in  front  of  the  sacred 
bark  of  Amon,  which  is  carried  by  priests  in  the  shape  of  semi-gods 
with  falcons'  and  jackals'  heads  and  accompanied  by  the  king  as 
high-priest  clad  in  a  panther-skin;  to  the  left,  the  coronation  of 
the  king  beneath  the  sacred  tree  of  Heliopolis.  —  In  the  S.  aisle  is 
a  fine  sandstone  statue  of  Sethos  U.  (headless). 

On  the  outside  of  the  N.  and  S.  walls  of  this  hall  are  •Historical 
Reliefs  of  great  importance,  commemorating  the  victories  of  Sethos  I. 
(N.)  and  Ramses  II.  (S.)  over  the  inhabitants  of  Palestine  and  the 
Libyans. 

AVe  pass  through  the  N.E.  door,  beside  PI.  d,  and  begin  with 
the  reliefs  at  the  E.  end  of  the  North  Wall  (PI.  d) :  Upper  Row.  Here 
we  see  King  Sethos  in  Lebanon.  The  inhabitants,  whose  physi- 
ognomies are  distinctly  characterized,  are  forced  to  fell  trees  for  the 
king.  Lower  Row,  Battle  with  the  Beduins  of  S.  Palestine,  Sethos 
is  driving  in  his  chariot  and  launching  his  arrows  against  the  foes, 
who  lie  in  confused  heaps  of  dead  and  wounded.  Above,  to  the 
left,  is  the  fortress  of  Canaan,  whose  inhabitants  are  beseeching 
mercy  or  assisting  the  fugitives  to  ascend  into  it. 

We  now  turn  the  corner  and  reach  Plan  e :  Upper  Row  (partly 
destroyed;  described  from  left  to  right).  1.  Battle  of  Yenuam  in 
Syria.  The  king,  advancing  to  the  attack  in  his  chariot,  shoots  arrows 
against  the  enemy,  whose  charioteers,  cavalry,  and  infantry  flee  in 
wild  confusion.  To  the  left  is  the  fortress  of  Yenuam,  surrounded 
with  water.  The  inhabitants  of  the  country,  many  of  whom  are  re- 
presented full  face  (contrary  to  the  usual  Egyptian  method),  conceal 
themselves  among  trees.  2.  The  king  binding  captive  Syrians  with 
his  own  hand.    3.  The  king,   marching  behind  his  chariot,  appears 


Temple  of  Anion.      THEBES  (E.  BANK).  20.  Route.    271 

dragging  four  captives  with  him  and  drawing  others  in  two  rows 
behind  him.  4.  Sethos  leads  two  rows  of  captured  Syrians  before 
the  Thebaii  triad,  Amou,  Mut,  and  Khons,  to  whom  he  also  pre- 
sents costly  vessels  captured  amongst  the  booty.  —  Lower  Row 
(from  left  to  right).  1.  Triumphal  progress  of  the  king  through 
Palestine.  Sethos,  standing  in  his  chariot,  which  advances  at  a 
walk,  turns  towards  the  princes  of  Palestine,  who  do  him  homage 
with  uplifted  hands.  Behind  the  king  are  a  fortress  and  the  costly 
vessels  taken  from  the  foe.  Above  and  below  the  horses  are  seen 
small  castles,  built  by  the  king  to  protect  the  water-stations.  2. 
Battle  against  the  Beduins  of  S.  Palestine.  The  king,  in  his  chariot, 
shoots  arrows  against  the  enemy,  the  survivors  of  whom  flee  to  the 
mountains.  Beneath  are  several  castles  and  wells,  with  the  wounded 
lying  beside  them.  3.  Victorious  return  of  the  king  from  Syria.  The 
king  stands  in  his  chariot,  pres'eded  and  followed  by  fettered  cap- 
tives. The  boundary  between  Asia  and  Africa  is  marked  by  a  canal 
bordered  by  reeds,  in  which  crocodiles  swim;  the  canal  is  spanned 
by  a  bridge,  at  each  end  of  which  is  a  fortified  guard-house.  On 
the  Egyptian  side  (to  the  right)  two  groups  of  priests,  with  nosegays, 
and  grandees  welcome  the  returning  monarch.  4.  The  king  dedicates 
the  captured  Syrians  and  the  booty  to  Amon. 

To  the  right  and  left  of  the  door  are  two  colossal  reliefs,  in 
which  the  king  raises  his  club  against  a  band  of  foes  whom  he  holds 
by  the  hair.  Opposite  is  Amon,  with  several  rows  of  captured  na- 
tions and  cities  and  presenting  the  curved  sword  of  victory  to  Sethos. 

The  representations  on  the  W.  part  of  the  N.  wall  (PI.  f)  begin 
at  the  other  end  and  run  from  right  to  left.  Top  Roic.  Storming  of 
Kadesh  in  the  land  of  Amor  (N.  Palestine).  The  king  (figure  want- 
ing) shoots  against  the  foe  from  his  chariot,  which  has  overthrown 
a  hostile  chariot.  To  the  right,  on  a  tree-clad  height,  appears  the 
fortress  of  Kadesh,  the  defenders  of  which  are  pierced  with  arrows. 
A  herd  of  cattle,  accompanied  by  the  herdsmen,  takes  to  flight.  — 
Middle  Row.  1.  Battle  against  the  Libyans.  The  king  in  his  chariot 
holds  with  his  bow  a  Libyan,  whom  he  is  about  to  smite  with  the 
sword.  To  the  right  are  heaps  of  dead  and  wounded  enemies.  The 
Libyans  are  distinguished  by  large  pigtails  worn  on  one  side  and  by 
feathers  on  their  heads.  2.  The  king  transfixes  a  Libyan  with  his 
lance.  3.  The  king  in  his  chariot,  preceded  by  two  rows  of  captured 
foes.  4.  The  king  presents  the  captives  and  the  booty  to  the  Theban 
triad.  —  Bottom  Row.  1.  Battle  against  the  Hittites  in  N.  Syria.  The 
king  in  his  chariot  shoots  against  his  foes,  who  betake  themselves  to 
headlong  flight  in  chariots,  on  horseback,  or  on  foot.  2.  The  king  in 
his  chariot  grasps  cords  to  which  are  fastened  several  captives  and 
two  hostile  chariots.  In  front  of  him  are  two  rows  of  captured 
Hittites.  3.  The  king  consecrates  the  captives  and  the  booty  to  the 
Theban  triad,  who  are  in  this  instance  accompanied  by  the  goddess 
of  truth.  — "We  re-enter  the  great  hypostyle  hall  by  the  N.  side-door. 


212   Route -20.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  -J.  Kama k: 

The  reliefs  on  the  outside  of  the  S.  "Wall  (PI.  g,  It)  commem- 
orate in  similar  fashion  the  Syrian  campaigns  of  Ramses  II.,  chiefly 
those  against  the  Hittites,  but  they  are  best  visited  after  seeing 
the  rest  of  the  temple  buildings,  from  the  door  beside  the  seventh 
pylon  (comp.  p.  279).  At  the  W.  end  of  this  wall,  on  the  outside  of 
the  S.  tower  of  the  second  pylon,  is  the  Triumphal  Inscription  of 
Shoshenk  I.  (the  Shishak  of  the  Bible).  This  commemorates  the 
victory  won  by  Shishak  over  Rehoboam,  son  of  Solomon,  King  of 
Judah.  The  large  form  of  Amon  appears  to  the  left,  grasping  in 
his  right  hand  the  sword  of  victory  and  in  his  left  cords  binding  five 
rows  of  captured  towns  in  Palestine,  each  of  which  is  represented 
by  a  circular  wall  enclosing  its  name,  beneath  the  upper  part  of  a 
fettered  prisoner.  The  curved  noses,  prominent  cheek-bones,  and 
pointed  beards  of  the  captives  clearly  identify  them  as  Semitic. 
Beneath  Amon  appears  the  goddess  of  the  Theban  nome,  with  the 


name  of  the  nome     I     upon  her  head.    She  holds  a  club,  bow,  and 

TFFRP 
quiver,  and  leads  five  rows  of  captives  with  cords.    To  the  right 
Shishak  is  seen  grasping  a  group  of  cowering  Semites  by  the  hair 
and  smiting  them  with  his  club.  The  figure  of  Shishak  was  left  un- 
finished. 

The  Biblical  passages  referring  to  the  campaign  are  1  Kings  xiv.  25,  26 
and  2  Chron.  xii.  2-4  &  9.  Of  the  name -labels  only  a  few  can  be 
identified  with  certainty  with  otherwise  known  names  of  places  in  Pal- 
estine, such  as  Rabbath  (last  ring  of  the  first  row),  Taanach,  Shunem, 
Rehob ,  Haphraim,  Mahanaim ,  Gibeon,  Beth-Horon,  Kedemoth,  Ajalon 
(in  the  second  row).  The  rest  of  the  inscriptions ,  which  are  couched 
in  the  usual  bombastic  style,  give  no  further  information  as  to  the 
campaign. 

On  the  projecting  wall  to  the  E.  of  the  S.  side-door  is  an  in- 
scription containing  the  Treaty  of  Peace  concluded  with  the  prince 
of  the  Hittites  by  Ramses  II.  in  the  21st  year  of  his  reign.  —  At 
PI.  ?■,  beyond  the  projecting  wall,  we  see  Ramses  II.  leading  two 
rows  of  captives  before  Amon.  Beneath  is  the  poetical  account  of 
the  Hittite  campaign  (the  so-called  Epic  of  Pentaur).  At  PI.  k,  on 
the  end  of  the  wall  (beside  the  closed  S.E.  door  of  the  hypostyle 
hall),  we  find  a  relief  of  Ramses  II.  presenting  to  Amon  the  cap- 
tives and  costly  vessels  taken  in  the  Syrian  campaigns. 

The  Third  Pylon,  built  by  Amenophis  III.  and  now  completely 
ruined,  forms  the  rear  wall  of  the  great  hypostyle  court,  into  which 
its  Vestibule  still  projects.  On  the  rear  of  the  S.  tower  (PI.  t)  is  a 
long  inscription  (unfortunately  imperfect  at  the  top),  recording  the 
gifts  of  Amenophis  III.  to  the  god  Amon ;  and  on  the  rear  of  the 
N.  tower  (PI.  m)  are  seen  the  last  remnants  of  a  larger  represent- 
ation of  a  festal  voyage ,  in  the  shape  of  a  sacred  bark  of  Amon 
with  the  king  on  board  and  another  fully  manned  ship. 


Tem}4e  of  Amon.         THEBES  (K.  BANK).  20.  Route,   21 '6 

In  the  adjoining  Central  Court  we  come  flist  upon  an  Obelisk, 
the  last  survivor  of  four  erected  in  pairs  by  Thutmosis  I.  and 
Thutmosis  III.  It  is  75^2  ft-  ^igb  *nd  stands  upon  a  base  6  ft. 
square.  On  each  face  of  the  obelisk  are  three  vertical  inscriptions, 
the  central  one  being  the  dedicatory  insciiplion  of  Thutmosis  I. 
and  the  other  two  additions  by  Ramses  IV.  and  Ramses  VI.  The 
bases  of  the  three  other  obelisks  are  adjacent.  The  obelisks  of  Thut- 
mosis I.  marked  the  entrance  to  the  temple  in  his  reign. 

Next  follows  Pylon  IV,  in  a  most  ruinous  condition.  (According 
to  the  inscriptions  in  relief  the  door  was  restored  by  Alexander  the 
Great.)   Beyond  it  are  the  scanty  remains  of  a  — 

Colonnade,  originally  embellished  with  columns  and  with  niches 
containing  colossal  statues  of  Osiris  (with  arms  crossed  and  the 
symbol  for  'life'  in  each  hand).  Within  this  colonnade  rose  the  two 
great  Obelixks  of  Queen  Hatshepsut,  made  of  line  pink  granite  from 
Assuan  and  covered  at  the  apex  with  electrum  (a  mixture  of  gold 
and  silver).  The  right  obelisk  has  been  overthrown  and  broken; 
long  inscriptions  on  the  base  celebrate  the  power  of  the  queen.  The 
left  *Obelisk,  still  standing,  is  97  ft.  high  and  its  diameter  at  the 
base  is  8^/2  ft.;  it  is  the  tallest  ancient  obelisk  known,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Lateran  Obelisk  (in  Rome),  whirh  is  105  ft.  high. 
On  each  of  the  four  sides  is  a  single  vertical  inscription  recording 
the  dedication  of  the  obelisks  and  the  fact  that  they  were  made  in 
7  months.  On  the  upper  parts  are  reliefs,  showing  Hatshepsut, 
Thutmosis  I.,  and  Thutmosis  III.  sacrificing  to  Amon.  The  names 
and  figures  of  Amon  were  obliterated  by  Amenophis  IV.,  but 
restored  by  Sethos  I.  By  the  wall  to  the  left  is  a  granite  statue 
of  Thutmosis  UI.,  kneeling  and  holding  an  altar  in  front  of  him. 

This  Colonnade  underwent  various  transformations  under  the  18th  Dyn- 
asty. When  Thutmosis  1.  built  it  originally  it  had  a  wooden  roof  borne 
by  wooden  columns,  afterwards  replaced  by  stone  ones,  of  which  three 
bases  are  still  in  Htit.  The  two  obelisks  were  erected  by  Hatshepsut 
to  celebrate  the  I6th  year  of  her  reign.  Thutmosis  III.  afterwards  sur- 
rounded the  obelisks  with  a  sandstone  structure  which  concealed  them 
to  a  height  of  about  82  ft.,  portions  of  which  still  remain.  The  colon- 
nade was  transformed  by  receiving  a  stone  roof  supported  by  two  rows 
of  papyrus-columns  (six  on  the  N.  side,  eight  on  the  S.).  The  five  old 
columns  were,  however,  retained.  Niches  were  formed  in  the  walls  and 
filled  with  statues  of  Thutmosis  I.,  removed  from  the  great  court  (p.  266). 
The  decoration  of  the  S.  part  was  not  concluded  until  the  reign  of 
Amenophis  IT. 

Through  the  Fifth  Pylon,  also  erected  by  Thutmosis  I.,  we  reach 
two  small  Antechambers,  inserted  by  Thutmosis  III.  in  front  of  the 
sixth  pylon,  and  now  in  a  state  of  ruin.  To  the  right  and  left  of 
these  are  two  larger  courts  adorned  with  colonnades  of  sixteen-sided 
columns  and  statues  of  Osiris.  These  form  the  last  remnant  of  the 
great  court  of  Thutmosis  I.,  which  once  surrounded  the  temple  of  the 
Middle  Empire.  In  the  passage  leading  to  the  N.  court  is  a  colossal 
seated  figure  of  Amenophis  II.,  in  red  granite.  —  The  Sixth  Pylon, 
the  last  and  smallest  of  all,  an  erection  of  Thutmosis  III.,  is  now  in 


274    Route  W.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  2.  Karnak: 

ruins.  On  the  walls  to  the  right  and  left  of  the  granite  gateway  are 
representations  in  the  usual  style  of  the  cities  and  tribes  subdued 
by  Thutmosis  III.  (comp.  p.  272) ;  to  the  right  are  the  tribes  of  the 
S.,  to  the  left  'the  tribes  of  the  Upper  Retenu  {i.e.  Syria),  which 
His  Majesty  took  in  the  wretched  town  of  Megiddo'. 

Beyond  the  sixth  pylon  lies  the  First  Hall  of  Records,  erected 
by  Thutmosis  III. ,  in  a  court  which  he  had  constructed  some  time 
previously.  Here  stand  two  large  Granite  Pillars,  which  once  support- 
ed the  roof.  The  S.  (right)  pillar  bears  the  lily  of  Upper  Egypt,  the 
N.  pillar  the  papyrus  of  Lower  Egypt.  Here  are  also  the  remains 
of  wonderful  Colossal  Statues  of  Amon  (much  restored)  and  of  the 
Ooddess  Amunet ,  in  reddish  sandstone ,  dedicated  by  King  Tut- 
enkli-Amun,  whose  name  was  later  replaced  by  that  of  Haremheb. 

To  the  left  and  right  of  this  Hall  of  Records  are  the  court  and  colon- 
nades of  Thutmosis  III.,  the  ceiling  of  which  was  borne  by  clustered 
papyrus-columns  with  16  shafts.  On  the  back  of  the  entrance-door  to  the 
S.  part  are  representations  of  Sethos  II.  On  the  E.  wall,  in  the  facade 
of  the  building  of  Hatshepsut,  is  a  false  door  which  was  once  lavishly 
adorned  'with  gold  and  lapis  lazuli'.  On  the  S.  side  are  five  chapels  for 
the  worship  of  Amenophis  I. 

The  Chapel  in  which  the  sacred  boat  stood  on  a  pedestal  (still 
in  situ)  was  built  in  the  time  of  Philip  Arrhidaeus,  probably  on  the 
site  of  an  earlier  chapel  of  Thutmosis  III.  the  granite  reliefs  of  which 
were  used  as  paving-stones  (two  reliefs  are  now  standing  in  the 
N.E.  and  S.E.  corners,  a  third  in  the  chamber  to  the  S.  of  the  Hall 
of  Records).  The  chapel  is  built  entirely  of  pink  granite  and  is 
divided  into  two  chambers.  The  front  chamber,  opening  to  the  W., 
is  20  ft.  long,  the  hinder  one  is  over  25  ft.  long  and  has  in  the  E. 
wall  a  double  window  reached  by  four  granite  steps.  The  walls  both 
outside  and  inside  were  covered  with  reliefs ,  the  colouring  of 
which  is  stiU  in  good  preservation  at  some  points. 

Interior  Walls.  In  the  first  chamber  Philip  appears  offering  sacrifices 
to  various  forms  of  Amon  and  performing  other  religious  rites.  The 
figures  and  inscriptions  are  picked  out  with  bluish -green  pigment.  The 
reliefs  in  the  second  chamber  are  larger,  hut  in  poorer  preservation.  Here, 
to  the  left,  Philip  is  seated  at  a  banquet.  —  Exterior  Walls.  On  the  S. 
side  of  the  first  chamber  are  four  rows  of  reliefs,  the  lowest  of  which  is 
destroyed:  1.  Rites  attending  the  entrance  of  the  chapel  by  the  king;  the 
goddess  Amunet  gives  milk  to  the  king.  2,  3.  The  sacred  boats  of  Amon, 
borne  by  priests,  going  and  returning  on  a  festal  occasion.  On  the  S.  wall 
of  the  second  chamber  are  four  sadly  damaged  reliefs,  side  by  side,  re- 
presenting the  king  sacrificing  to  various  forms  of  Amon  or  performing 
religions  ceremonies.  On  the  N.  wall  of  the  first  chamber  the  king  oflers 
two  small  trees  to  Amon-Kametf.  On  the  N.  wall  of  the  second  chamber 
are  representations  of  foundation  ceremonies  and  of  sacrificial  scenes. 

On  the  N.  wall  of  the  second  Hall  of  Records  of  Thutmosis  III. 
(enclosing  the  chapel)  are  long  inscriptions  detailing  the  military 
achievements  of  that  monarch.  The  relief  above  the  inscription  to 
the  right  of  the  black  granite  door  depicts  Thutmosis  III.  conferring 
gifts  on  the  temple  (two  obelisks,  vases,  necklaces,  chests).  —  Open- 
ing off  the  Hall  of  Records  to  the  N.  and  S.  are  a  number  of  rooms, 
all  more  or  less  in  ruins,  which  were  built  and  embellished  with 


Temple  nfAmcn.         THEBES  (E.  BANK).         20.  Route.  275 

reliefs  by  Queen  Hatshepsut.  As  in  all  other  places,  the  names  and 
figures  of  the  queen  have  heen  scratched  out  or  replaced  by  those  of 
Thutmosis  II.  or  Thutmosis  III.  In  the  S.  half  are  a  room  containing 
a  staircase  leading  to  the  roof,  and  a  chamber  with  a  granite  altar 
dedicated  by  Thutmosis  III.  Here  is  also  a  fine  statue  of  Ameno- 
phis  II.  (sitting  beside  a  damaged  figure  of  Amon). 

The  Reliefi  of  Qmen  Ilrilshepsul,  in  a  room  to  the  N.  shut  off  by  a  black 
E:ranite  door  (key  with  31.  LegraiD,  p.  264),  are  very  fine  and  have  retained 
their  colour  well.  The  left  wall,  which  oriiiinally  adjoined  the  X.  wall 
of  the  second  record  hall,  was  removed  thence  and  re-erected  here. 

We  now  descend  to  the  E.  to  an  open  space,  strewn  with  the 
scanty  relics  of  the  earliest  Temfle  of  the  Middle  Empire.  In  front 
of  the  chambers  of  Thutmosis  III.,  which  may  be  recognized  on  the 
N.  side,  ran  a  path,  on  which  the  Pharaohs  erected  statues  to  the 
grandees  judged  worthy  of  that  honour.  —  We  next  reach  the  — 

Great  Festal  Temple  of  Thutmosis  III,  We  enter  by  the  main  portal 
on  the  S.W.  (PI.  a),  in  front  of  which  stand  two  statues  of  the  king 
as  Osiris  (the  left  one  only  complete)  and  the  stumps  of  two  sixteen- 
sided  columns.  We  turn  to  the  left,  traverse  the  antechambers, 
and  find  ourselves  in  the  (ireat  Festal  Hall,  which  has  five  aisles 
and  is  144  ft.  wide  and  52  ft.  deep.  The  roof  of  the  three  central 
aisles,  which  were  higher  than  the  others,  was  supported  by  "20  col- 
umns in  two  rows  and  32  square  pillars.  The  tent-pole  shaped 
columns  (p.  clxi)  are  unique,  and  indicate  that  the  architect  con- 
ceived the  central  aisles  as  forming  a  huge  festal  tent.  The  pillars, 
not  so  tall  as  the  columns,  were  of  the  same  height  as  the  outer 
walls  and  with  the  latter  supported  the  pentagonal  roofing  slabs  of 
the  lower  side-aisles.  At  the  same  time  they  were  prolonged  to  the 
same  height  as  the  columns  by  means  of  imposts  and  architrave,  in 
order  to  assist  the  columns  in  supporting  the  roof  of  the  central 
aisles.  The  reliefs  on  the  pillars  show  Thutmosis  III.  in  presence 
of  the  gods.  The  hall  contains  several  torsos  of  statues  found  there. 

At  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  hall  is  the  chamber  (PI.  c)  in  which  was 
found  the  so-called  Karnak  Table  of  the  Kings,  a  list  of  the  Etiyptian  mon- 
archs  from  the  earliest  times  down  to  the  18th  IJyn.  (transferred  in  1843 
to  the  Bibliotheque  Rationale  in  Paris).  The  statuos  of  the  ancient  kings 
which  were  carried  in  procession  by  the  priests  were  probably  kept  in 
this  room.  —  On  the  N.  side  of  the  three  central  aisles  lie  three  Chapels: 
the  one  on  the  W.  (Pl.x)  contains  a  colossal  group  of  Thutmosis  III.  between 
Amon  and  Ulut.  —  From  the  N.W.  corner  of  the  hall  we  pass  through  an 
antechamber  (PI.  z)  into  a  narrow  corridor,  the  N.  side  of  which  is  adorn- 
ed with  fine  reliefs :  Thutmosis  III.  offering  incense  to  the  ithyphallic 
Amon;  the  king  pouring  water  over  Amon,  while  on  the  right  priests  and 
singing  men  and  women  approach  ;  the  king  pouring  water  on  an  altar 
in  presence  of  Amon  and  burning  incense.  From  the  N.E.  angle  of  the 
Festal  Hall  a  flight  of  steps  ascends  within  a  tower-like  structure  to  a 
chamber  which  was  perhaps  used  for  astronomical  purposes  and  still  con- 
tains an  aliar.  —  The  rooms  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Festal  Hall  are  in  a 
verjr  ruinous  condition.  On  the  N.E.  is  a  chamber  with  two  pillars,  and 
adjoining  it  lies  a  dilapidated  chapel  with  a  large  granite  altar.  —  The 
central  door  in  the  E.  aisle  leads  into  three  chambers,  of  which  only  the 
lower  part  of  the  walls  is  now  left.  Adjoining,  on  the  N.,  and  reached  by 
steps,   is  a  Smai.i.   Uoo.m,  with  it.s  roof  siip|mrted    l)y  4  clustered    papyrus- 


'216    Route  20.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  2.Kamak: 

columns  with  bud-capitala  (still  in  good  preservation) ;  on  the  lower  part 
of  the  wall  are  representations  of  the  plants  and  animals  brought  from 
Syria  to  Egypt  by  Thutmosis  III.  in  the  26th  year  of  hU  reign.  To  the  S. 
is  the  Alexander  Room,  built  by  Thutmosis  III.  and  embellished  with  re- 
liefs and  inscriptions  by  Alexander  the  Great.  The  reliefs  show  Alexander 
(or  occasionally  Thutmosis)  sacrificing.  Farther  on  is  a  Haj.i,  with  8  six- 
teen-sided columns  (7  still  erect),  and  to  the  E.  of  it  are  rooms  with  pillars 
in  two  stories;  beyond  that,  forming  the  end  of  the  temple  on  the  S.  side, 
runs  a  Cokeidoe,  opening  off  which  are  two  small  rooms  with  pillars  and 
seven  other  chambers  with  reliefs  of  Thutmosis  III. 

The  central  and  E.  portions  of  the  Temple  of  Amoii  (from 
Pylon  111  onwards)  were  surrounded  by  a  Giedle  Wall,  the  ex- 
tant remains  of  which  are  covered  with  reliefs  of  Ramses  II.  sacri- 
ficing to  the  gods.  On  the  E.  side  of  this  girdle-wall  and  to  the  E. 
of  the  Festal  Temple  of  Thutmosis  III.  lies  a  second  Sanctuary  of 
Thutmosis  HI.,  which  was  prohably  dedicated  to  the  cult  of  that 
king  and  his  sister  Hatshepsut  after  their  death.  In  the  central 
chapel  (PI.  a)  are  colossal  seated  figures  of  the  royal  pair;  in  front 
of  it,  to  the  E.,  is  a  pillared  hall,  containing  six  gigantic  statues 
of  the  king,  which  were  'usurped'  by  Kamses  II.  —  Farther  to 
the  E.,  in  the  same  main  axis,  lie  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  Temple 
of  Ramses  II.,  which  interrupts  an  old  brick  girdle -wall.  Beyond 
the  entrance-gateway,  which  is  situated  on  the  E.  side,  we  enter 
a  court  with  arcades  formed  of  columns  and  of  pillars  embel- 
lished with  Osiris-statues;  beyond  that  is  a  hypostyle  hall.  To  the 
E.,  in  front  of  the  portal,  lay  an  arcade  with  20  columns,  of  the  time 
of  Taharka.  To  the  N.  of  this  are  the  remains  of  another  Temple  of 
Ramies  II.,  which  was  restored  in  the  reign  of  the  Ptolemies  and  was 
perhaps  dedicated  to  the  cult  of  King  MentuhotepIII.  (11th  Dyn.); 
to  the  S.,  to  the  E.  of  the  Sacred  Lake,  are  the  remains  of  a  Brick 
Building  dating  from  a  period  anterior  to  the  Middle  Empire. 

Farther  on  is  the  well-preserved  E.  Gateway  (now  closed)  of  the 
great  brick  girdle-wall  which  enclosed  the  whole  area  of  the  temple. 
It  was  built  by  one  of  the  Ptolemies  and  is  62  ft.  in  height.  It 
lies  510  yds.  distant  from  the  first  pylon  (p.  266). 

Against  the  girdle -wall  stands  a  small  Temple  of  Osiris  (key  with 
M.  Legrain,  p.  264),  erected  by  Osorkon  III.,  his  son  and  co-regent  Take- 
lothis  III.,  and  his  daughter  Shepenupet.  The  first  chamber  was  added 
later  by  Amenertais,  sister  of  Shabako  (25th  Dyn.)  and  mother-in-law  of 
Psammetichos  I.  Mear  it  are  several  small  chapels  of  the  same  period 
(26th  Dyn.).  —  If  we  turn  to  the  right  (S.)  outside  the  gateway,  we  soon 
reach  a  small  building  bearing  the  cartouches  of  Ramses  III.  and  Ramses  IV. 

c.  The  Northern  Buildings  at  Kaenak. 

Of  the  buildings  to  the  K.  of  the  Temple  of  Amon  the  Temple  of 
Ptah  alone  is  worth  a  visit;  the  others  are  in  such  bad  preservation  that 
hurried  travellers  may  omit  a  visit  to  them  altogether. 

From  the  N.  side-door  of  the  hypostyle  hall  an  ancient  paved 
road  leads  N.E.  to  the  Temple  of  Ptah,  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Temple  of  Amon,  passing  (left)  a  small  brick  fortress  and  three 
small  Chapels  of  the  Late  Period,  all  entered  from  the  E. 


Northern  Buildings.    THEPES  (E.  BANK).       20.  Route.   217 

The  southernmost  and  largest  of  these  cbapels  was  bailt  towards  the 
close  of  the  26th  Dyn.  by  the  majordomo  Peteneit.  In  the  doorway  we 
see  Psammetichos  III.  and  Princess  Enkh-nes-nefer-eb-re  in  presence  of 
Amon  and  other  gods.  Beyond  is  a  hall  built  of  brick,  with  four  stone 
columns.  Tn  the  right  of  the  entrance  to  the  sanctuary  is  Nitocris,  wife 
of  Psammetichos  II.,  to  the  left  is  Amasis.  —  The  central  chapel  wat 
erected  by  a  court  official  named  Shoshenk  in  the  reign  of  Amasis,  who 
is  represented  on  the  left  jamb  of  the  entrance-door.  Un  the  right  jamb 
is  Princess  Enkh-nes-nefer-eb-re,  to  whose  household  Shoshenk  Ijelonged. 
The  walls  of  this  chapel  are  of  brick,  with  the  exception  of  the  gates, 
the  columns  of  the  court,  and  the  sanctuary,  which  are  of  stone.  —  The 
northern  chapel,  the  oldest,  wa.s  built  in  the  reign  of  Taharka  (25th  Dyn.), 
who,  along  with  the  princess  Shepenupet,  appears  on  the  walls. 

The  *Teinple  of  Ptah,  patron -god  of  Memphis,  was  built  by 
Thutmosis  111.  and  enlarged  and  restored  by  Shabako  the  Ethiopian 
and  by  several  of  the  Ptolemies. 

As  we  approach  from  the  W.,  we  reach  five  successive  Gateways,  of 
which  the  second  and  fourth  (PI.  a  and  6)  were  built  by  Shabako,  whose 
names  have  been  scratched  out,  the  others  by  a  Ptolemy.  Farther  on  is  a 
Porch,  enclosed  by  two  columns  (with  rich  foliage  capitals)  connected 
by  a  stone  screen.  The  small  Pi/lon  beyond  the  porch  has  a  portal  bearing; 
the  name  of  Thutmosis  III.,  restored  in  the  Ptolemaic  period.  This 
admits  to  a  Court  (PI.  c) ,  embellished  at  the  back  with  a  porticus  sup- 
ported by  two  sixteen-sided  columns.  Two  altar-bases  of  red  granite  stand 
here,  dedicated  by  Amenemhet  1.  and  Thutmosis  III.  In  the  walls  are 
ancient  recesses.  A  staircase  ascends  to  the  upper  story.  A  doorway 
(with  restored  reliefs  of  Thutmosis  III.)  in  the  main  axis  of  the  temple 
leads  into  the  Sanctuary,  which  retains  the  original  reliefs  of  Thutmosis  III. 
Here  stands  the  image  of  Ptah,  which  is  illuminated  with  weird  effect 
through  an  aperture  in  the  ceiling  (the  modern  wooden  door  shonld  be 
closed).  To  the  right  is  a  room  with  a  statae  of  the  lion-headed  goddess 
Sekhmet;  to  the  left,  another  with  a  well-preserved  ceiling  and  ancient 
reliefs  of  Thutmosis  III.  —  It  is  instructive  to  observe  the  difference  in  style 
between  the  ancient  and  the  restored  reliefs. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  Temple  of  Ptah,  on  the  way  to  the  Temple 
of  Osiris  (p.  276),  is  a  Storehouse,  built  by  the  P^thiopian  Shabako, 
consisting  of  a  single  hall  borne  hy  12  columns.  Kound  the  brick 
walls  run  stone  tables  on  which  the  sacrificial  gifts  were  laid. 

From  the  Temple  of  Ptah  we  pass  through  a  gate  in  the  N.  girdle 
wall  of  the  Temple  of  Amon  and  reach  the  North  Temple  Pre- 
cincts, which  are  surrounded  by  a  girdle-wall  of  brick.  Here  stands 
the  Templb  of  Mont,  which  is  now  so  ruined  and  covered  with 
rubbish  that  its  ground-plan  can  scarcely  be  made  out.  The  temple 
was  built  for  the  war -god  Mont  by  Amenophis  III,  (18th  Dyn.), 
though  it  was  subsequently  several  times  enlarged  and  restored 
between  the  reign  of  Ramses  II.  and  the  epoch  of  the  Ptolemies. 
The  earlier  sculptures  and  architectural  fragments  are  of  great 
beauty.  Two  obelisks  of  red  granite  once  stood  in  front  of  the  N. 
entrance,  of  which  the  bases  and  some  fragments  are  still  extant. 
The  N.  gateway  of  the  N.  temple -precincts,  built  of  sandstone, 
dates  from  Ptolemy  Euergetes.  —  In  the  girdle -wall  to  the  S.  of 
the  Temple  of  Mont  is  a  gate  adorned  with  the  name  of  Nektanebes 
(Nekht-Har-ehbet;  p.  cvii). 

From  the  sandstone  gateway  we  proceed  to  the  S.W.,  passing  the 
remains  of  a  Ptolemaic  Temple  (not  yet  freed  from  rubbish),  of 


278    Route  20.  THEBES  (E.  BANK).  2.  Karnal:  : 

which  the  staircase  is  still  to  be  seen,  to  Six  Small  Chapels,  each 
of  which  is  entered  hy  a  sandstone  gateway  in  the  girdle-wall.  Only 
the  two  chapels  farthest  to  the  W.  have  left  any  considerable  re- 
mains. The  second  from  the  W.  contains  the  name  of  Amenertais, 
with  that  of  her  brother  Shabako.  The  line  alabaster  statue  of  the 
queen  now  in  the  museum  at  Cairo  (p.  88)  was  found  here.  — 
Farther  on  towards  the  river  are  numerous  brick  houses  of  a  later 
date,  which  have  been  largely  demolished.  Among  them  are  the 
remains  of  a  small  temple  dedicated  by  Philopator  to  Thout.  —  To 
the  extreme  N.,  amidst  the  houses  of  the  village  of  Karnak,  stands 
a  Small  Temple,  erected  by  Shepenupet,  the  daughter  of  the  Ethio- 
pian King  Piankhi,  and  adorned  with  palm-columns. 

d.  The  Southern  Buildings  at  Karnak. 

Situated  to  the  S.  of  Ramses  II.'s  girdle-wall  (p.  276)  is  the 
Sacred  Lake,  named  by  the  Arabs  Birket  el-Maliaha  or  Lake  of  the 
Salt  Pit,  as  the  water  has  become  saline  and  undrinkable  through 
Infiltration.  The  banks  were  anciently  faced  with  hewn  stones,  and 
traces  of  these  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  W.  and  S.  sides,  and 
even  better  on  the  N.  On  the  N.  bank  of  the  lake  stands  a  structure 
of  Thutmosis  III.  Near  the  N.W.  corner  are  the  ruins  of  a  building 
of  Taharka,  and  on  the  bank  of  the  lake  is  a  colossal  *Oranite  Scara- 
baeus,  which  was  dedicated  by  Amenophis  III.  to  the  sun-god  Atum- 
Khepre,  who  was  pictured  in  the  form  of  a  srarabffius. 

We  now  proceed  to  visit  the  Connecting  Buildings  between  the 
Temple  of  Amon  and  the  Temple  of  Mut. 

Quitting  the  central  court  of  the  Temple  of  Amon,  we  enter  a 
court  enclosed  on  two  sides  by  walls  and  on  the  rear  by  Pylon  VII, 
all  of  which  are  in  ruins.  Here  stood  a  temple  erected  by  Amen- 
ophis I.  and  taken  down  under  Thutmosis  III.,  the  limestone  blocks 
of  which  have  been  recently  rediscovered ;  they  are  adorned  with 
fine  reliefs.  Adjacent  is  the  so-called  'Karnak  Cachette'  (now  closed 
up  again),  a  large  pit  in  which  a  profusion  of  statues  of  all  periods 
was  discovered  (779  of  stone,  17,000  of  bronze;  now  mostly  in  the 
museum  at  Cairo,  see  p.  84);  they  came  from  the  Temple  of  Amon 
and  were  probably  buried  here  when  no  longer  used.  —  On  the 
exterior  of  the  W.  wall  was  inscribed  the  famous  treaty  made  by 
Ramses  II.  with  the  Hittites  (p.  272).  On  the  E.  wall  is  a  long 
inscription  (PI.  a),  describing  the  contests  of  King  Amenephthes 
(Merenptah)  with  the  Libyans  and  the  peoples  of  the  Mediterranean 
(Etruscans,  Achaeans,  etc.),  and  a  triumphal  relief  (PI.  6)  of  Ame- 
nephthes, in  the  presence  of  Amon,  smiting  his  enemies. 

Pylon  VII,  built  by  Thutmosis  III.,  whose  victories  are  celebrat- 
ed on  it,  originally  served,  like  the  following  Pylon  VIII,  as  the  S. 
entrance  to  the  Temple  of  Amenophis  I.  (see  above).  In  front  of 
theN.  facade  are  colossal  red  granite  statues  of  kings  of  the  Middle 
and  New  Empires;  in  front  of  the  S.  facade  are  the  lower  parts  of 


ffoulhern  Buildings.     THEBES  (E,  BANK),        2U.  Route.   279 

two  colossal  statues  of  Thutmosis  III. ;  in  front  of  the  easternmost 
of  these  stands  the  lower  part  of  a  large  obelisk  of  Thutmosis  III. 
The  East  Tower  in  front  of  the  N.  facade  is  adorned  with  a  figure  of 
Osiris  (on  the  front  of  which  is  an  inscription  of  Ramses  U.  added  at  a 
later  date)  and  a  colossal  statue  of  Thutmosis  III.  On  the  West  Tower  are 
(enumerated  from  left  to  right)  a  colossal  statue  of  Thutmosis  III.  witli 
the  double  crown,  an  Osiris  figure  of  tlie  same  (its  head  on  the  ground 
before  it),  a  seated  figure  of  a  king  of  the  Sliddle  Empire,  a  seated  figure 
of  Sebek-hotep,  a  statue  of  .Ainenophis  II.,  and  the  left  half  of  a  memorial 
inscription  of  Haremheb. 

Beside  Pylon  VII  is  a  modern  door,  by  which  visitors  usually- 
quit  the  temple-precincts  (comp.  p.  264)  in  order  to  inspect  the  re- 
liefs on  the  S.  exterior  walls  of  the  great  hypostyle  hall  (p.  272). 

Beside  the  easternmo.<t  of  the  two  walls  which  unite  Pylon  VII 
with  Pylon  VIII  lies  (to  the  left)  a  small  ruined  Chapel  dating  from 
the  reign  of  Thutmosis  III.  (in  peripteral  form ;  p.  clxiii).  Farther  on, 
on  the  same  wall,  is  a  representation  (Pl.c)  of  Ramses  II.  sacrificing. 

Pylon  VIII  is  in  comparatively  good  preservation,  although  it 
was  built  by  Queen  Ilatshepsut  and  is  thus  the  most  ancient  part 
of  the  entire  building.  Hatshepsut's  names  were  removed  from  the 
reliefs  by  Thutmosis  II.  Sethos  I.  restored  the  reliefs  which  Amen- 
ophis  IV.  (p.  255)  had  destroyed  ;  but  in  many  cases  he  inserted  his 
own  name  instead  of  replacing  those  of  the  ancient  kings. 

N.  Side.  Left  Tower  (JC.).  Above,  1.  Sethos  I.  sacrificing  to  variojis 
gods;  farther  to  the  right,  2.  Thutmosis  II.  (originally  Hatshepsut)  led 
into  the  temple  by  the  lion -headed  goddess  Wert-hekew,  followed  by 
Hathor;  behind  the  king  are  priests  carrying  the  sacred  boat  of  Amon ; 
beneath  appears  Thutmosis  I.  before  the  Theban  triad.  The  inscription 
in  front  of  this  king  refers  to  the  accession  of  Hatshepsut.  —  Hight  Tower 
fir.J,  from  left  to  right:  1.  Sethos  I.  (originally  Hatshepsut)  led  into 
the  temple  by  the  falcon-headed  Mont,  who  holds  to  his  nose  the  symbol 
for  'life';  behind  are  priests  carrying  the  boat  of  Amon.  2  (upper  row,  to 
the  right).  Thutmosis  II.  (originally  Hatshepsut)  before  Amon  and  Khons; 
behind  the  king  are  the  goddess  Wert-hekew  and  Thont,  the  latter  writing 
upon  a  palm -branch;  beneath  (in  two  rows),  Ramses  III.  before  various 
gods.  —  On  the  Jambs  of  the  Central  Doorway  are  inscriptions  of  Thutmosis  II. 
(originally  Hatshepsut)  and  Thutmosis  III. 

On   each   side  in   the  Gateway    is  Ramses  II.  before    various    deities. 

S.  Side.  LeflTower(  W.).  Amenophis  II.  seizing  fettered  enemies  by  the 
hair  and  smiting  tliem  with  his  club;  before  him  is  Amon  (inserted  later 
by  Sethos  I.).  Hight  Tower  (E.).  A  similar  scene.  —  On  the  Door  Jambs 
are  inscripticms  of  Thutmosis  11.  (left;  originally  Hatshepsut)  and  Thut- 
mosis III.  (right).  —  Leaning  against  the  right  door-post  is  a  red  granite 
stele,  unfortunately  much  damaged,  recording  the  Asiatic  campaigns  of 
Ameno)ilus  II.  —  On  the  E.  side  of  the  right  tower  are  reliefs  and  in- 
scriptions of  high-priests  of  Amon  in  the  reign  of  Sethos  II. 

Four  colossal  seated  figures  of  kings  were  originally  placed  before 
the  S.  side  of  this  pylon,  the  best-preserved  of  which  is  that  of 
Amenophis  I.  (to  the  W. ;  of  limestone).  The  two  figures  of  Thut- 
mosis II.  retain  their  lower  part  only  ;  the  one  to  the  W.  is  of  reddish- 
brown  silicious  sandstone  and  bears  an  inscription  on  the  back  record- 
ing that  Thutmosis  III.  restored  it  in  the  4'2nd  year  of  his  reign. 

The  following  Pylon  IX,  built  by  King  Haremheb,  partly  with 
the  remains  of  a  temple  of  Amenophis  IV.,  has  collapsed. 

Baeukkkr's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  18 


280  Route  20.  THEBES  (E.  BANKl.  2.  Karnak. 

Between  Pylons  IX  and  X  lies  a  square  court,  surrounded  by  a 
wall,  -which  is  interrupted  on  the  left  (E.)  side  by  the  ruins  of  a 
small  Temple  or  Amenophis  II. 

In  front  of  the  temple  is  a  Oallery,  borne  by  14  square  pillars  embel- 
lished with  reliefs.  Thence  a  granite  portal  admits  us  to  a  large  Hall,  the 
roof  of  which  rested  on  16  square  pillars  with  concave  cornices  at  the  top. 
On  the  four  sides  of  each  pillar  appears  Amenophis  II.  before  some  deity. 
This  hall  is  flanked  by  smaller  chambers,  two  of  which  have  pillars 
like  those  of  the  main  hall.  Most  of  the  sculptures  on  the  walls  and 
pillars  are  executed  in  fine  low  relief,  only  a  few  being  in  sunk  relief. 
Much  of  the  colouring  is  in  good  preservation. 

On  the  E.  Walt  of  the  court  are  several  important  reliefs  of 
Haremheb.  At  PL  d  the  king  conducts  to  the  Theban  triad  captives 
with  costly  gifts  from  the  incense-yielding  land  of  Punt,  while  at 
PI.  e  he  appears  with  fettered  Syrian  captives. 

On  the  outside  of  the  wall,  behind  PI.  «,  is  a  procession  of  priests 
carrying  the  sacred  boats.  Beside  it  is  an  inscription  of  the  time  of  the 
high-priest  Pinotem  II.,  recording  the  appointment  of  a  priest  in  deference 
to  an  oracle  of  Amon. 

The  reliefs  on  the  W.  Watt  of  the  court,  which  also  date  from 
Haremheb,  are  in  poor  preservation. 

Pylon  X,  which  formed  the  S.  entrance  to  the  precincts  of  the 
great  temple  of  Amon  from  the  end  of  the  18th  Dynasty  onwards, 
was  likewise  built  by  Haremheb,  who  used  the  stones  of  a  temple 
raised  by  Amenophis  IV.  in  Karnak  to  his  new  deity  (p.  211).  The 
reliefs  on  the  central  granite  doorway  exhibit  Haremheb  sacrificing 
and  performing  other  religious  rites.  —  In  front  of  the  N.  side  of  the 
pylon  stand  two  headless  statues  of  Ramses  II.,  of  fine-grained  lime- 
stone (that  to  the  W.  adjoined  by  a  figure  of  his  wife).  Here  is 
also  a  large  stele  with  a  manifesto  of  Haremheb,  intended  to  restore 
order  to  the  distracted  state.  In  front  of  the  S.  side  of  the  pylon 
are  the  remains  of  colossal  statues  of  Amenophis  III.  (E.)  and 
Haremheb  (W.)  and  the  lower  part  of  a  colossus  of  Osiris. 

From  Pylon  X  the  East  Avenue  of  Sphinxes,  erected  by  Haremheb, 
leads  to  a  Oate  in  the  girdle-wall  of  the  South  Temple  Precincts, 
built  by  Ptolemy  II.  Philadelphus  and  embellished  with  reliefs  and 
long  inscriptions.  On  the  E.  side  of  this  road  is  a  Chapel  of  Osiris- 
Plah  (closed),  with  well-preserved  painted  reliefs;  the  chapel  was 
built  by  the  Ethiopian  Kings  Tanutamun  and  Taharka  (25th  Dyn.). 
From  the  gate  we  proceed  amidst  figures  of  recumbent  rams, 
sphinxes,  and  fragments  of  statues  to  the  — 

Temple  of  Mut,  built  by  Amenophis  III. 

A  Gateteay  (PI.  A)  admits  us  to  a  large  Court,  in  the  middle  of  which 
was  a  colonnade.  Outside  the  gateway  are  pillars  with  figures  of  the  god 
Bes.  On  the  gateway  are  lengthy  inscriptions  of  the  Ptolemaic  period 
(hymns  to  Mut)  and  an  inscription  of  Ramses  III.,  who  restored  the  temple. 
The  court  contains  numerous  seated  figures  of  the  lion-headed  goddess 
Sekhmet,  dedicated  by  Amenophis  III.  On  several  of  these  Shoshenk  I. 
has  placed  his  own  name  in  place  of  that  of  Amenophis.  —  Farther  on 
is  a  second  Colonnaded  Court,  with  statues  of  Sekhmet  and  a  black  granite 
figure  of  Amenophis  III.  —  The  inner  rooms,  which  are  likewise  adjoined 
by  statues  of  Sekhmet,  are  in  a  very  ruinous  condition. 


ToflrnxAviih  llSiC' 


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{ T.  of  iVmeimphi^IDy 

■^Colossi  of  Memiion 


•oir   Eslahl.    L.Mii 


HECROPC^US   QF  THiltS 


tiOO         700       800 


,  '   '   Kl/Khnkha 

luiJpiosKIU.  „<>'\^>*      ^^  ,"^-'  J.<aVia<i!iF'>ni.. 

i'  O  3.-     ^ 


Der  cl-bnkliit 


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^^•ah   Abul    Se§l^^ 


T.of  AinenophisL  --• 


■    /        /••    " 


2.  Knrnak.  THEBES  (E.  BANK!  90.  Route.    281 

Behind  the  temple  of  Mut  lies  a  Sacred  Lake,  Farther  to  the  AV. 
are  the  remains  of  a  small  Temple  of  Ramsks  III. 

On  the  TV.  Exterior  Wall  are  representations  of  scenes  from  the  king's 
campaigns:  1.  Battle  in  Syria;  2.  Syrian  captives  brought  before  the  king; 
adjoining,  heaps  of  hands  cut  off  fmm  the  enemy  are  being  counted; 
3.  Battle  with  the  Libyans;  4.  Triumphal  procession  of  the  king,  and 
train  of  Libyan  captives;  5.  The  king  inspecting  the  captives;  6.  Train  ol' 
captives;  7.  Dedication  of  the  spoil. to  the  Theban  triad. 

KxcoRsioN  TO  MedamBt  (3-4  hrs.  there  and  back),  strongly  recom- 
mended if  time  permits.  The  site  is  reached  after  l-l'/4  hr.'s  riding  on 
donkey-back.  We  take  the  road  to  Earnak  (p.  262),  diverge  from  it  to  the 
E.  at  the  Temple  of  Jlut,  and  then  follow  the  railway -embankment  to- 
wards the  N.  [Or  we  may  traverse  the  village  of  Kariiak  and  then  go  to 
the  E.  towards  the  railway.)  Beyond  kilometre-stone  667  we  turn  to  the 
E.  and  soon  reach  the  village  of  Medamui,  situated  amid  palms. 

The  Temple  of  Medamut,  dedicated  to  the  war-god  ilont,  was  situated 
in  the  N.  suburb  of  Thebes,  called  J/f(u.  The  erection  of  this  temple  dates 
from  the  time  of  the  Ptolemies.  The  W.  approach  to  the  temple  was  formed 
by  a  Pylon  (now  in  ruins),  which  incorporated  older  blocks  of  the  time 
of  Sethos  I.  and  Ramses  U.  To  the  W.  of  that  is  a  kind  of  terrace,  similar 
to  that  at  Karnak  and  formerly  bearing  two  obelisks.  On  the  pave- 
ment are  drawings  of  feet  and  demotic  inscriptions  left  by  visitors  to 
the  temple.  Five  columns  of  the  Inner  Chambers  are  still  standing.  In 
the  middle  are  two  columns  with  calyx- capitals  (of  several  pieces),  between 
which  is  a  door.  The  other  three  "are  clustered  papyrus  -  columns  with 
bud- capitals.  There  is  also  a  red  granite  pillar,  with  Amenophis  II. 
sacrificing  to  the  falcon-headed  5Iont. 


B.  THE  WEST  BANK  AT  THEBES. 

Donkeys  and  Carnages  fp.  252)  had  better  be  ordered  the  night  before 
to  be  in  readiness  on  the  W.  bank.  —  An  early  start  should  be  made 
l.uncheon-baskets,  etc.,  comp.  p.  252.  Close  lo  the  temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri 
lies  Cook's  rest-house  (p.  299).  Ferry-boats  ply  from  the  chief  hotels  at 
Lu.xor  to  the  W.  bank  (p.  252). 

On  the  West  Bank  lay  the  Necropolis,  or  City  of  the  Dead,  and 
also  a  large  number  of  temples. t  These  latter,  dating  mostly  from 
the  New  Empire,  were  dedicated  to  Amon,  the  principal  deity  of 
Thebes,  and  were  used  also  in  the  worship  of  deceased  kings.  They 
■were  adjoined  by  dwellings  for  the  priests,  libraries,  and  sometimes 
schools.  In  the  vicinity  were  groves  and  lakes,  besides  granaries, 
stables  for  the  sacrificial  animals,  barracks  for  the  guards,  prisons, 
etc.  Close  by  lay  the  villages  of  the  numerous  workmen  who  found 
employment  in  connection  with  the  cemeteries :  masons,  painters, 
builders,  and  above  all  embalmers,  to  whose  care  the  bodies  were 
committed.  Gradually  a  whole  city  arose  here,  like  the  quarters  beside 
the  tombs  of  the  Mamelukes  at  Cairo.  Under  the  New  Empire  its 
management  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  a  special  official,  known  as 
'prince  of  the  West  and  general  of  the  soldiers  of  the  Necropolis'. 

T  The  longer  axes  of  these  temples  lie  from  S.E.  to  N.W.,  but  in  con- 
formity with  the  system  mentioned  in  the  foot-note  to  p.  264  the  text  speaks 
of  them  as  if  they  lav  from  N.  to  S. 

18* 


282   Route  20.  THEBES  (  W.  BANK).  .?.  Knrna. 


3.   The  Temple  of  Sethos  I.  at  Kurna. 

From  the  landing-place  of  the  ferry-boat  on  the  W.  bank  we 
ride  first  in  a  southerly  direction,  then  pass  between  the  hamlets  of 
Naga'  er-Rizkeh  and  Naga'  el-Ba'irat  to  the  Fadiliyeh  Canal,  which 
we  cross  to  the  N.  at  Naga'  et-T6d,  where  a  light  railway  (for  con- 
veying sugar-cane)  approaches  it.    In  about  2/4  hr.  we  reach  the  — 

*Temple  of  Sethos  I.,  which  was  founded  in  honour  of  Amon 
by  Sethos  I.,  and  at  the  same  time  was  devoted  to  the  worship  of 
the  king  and  of  his  father,  Ramses  1.  Sethos  left  it  unfinished  and 
Ramses  II.  'renewed'  it,  i.e.  embellished  it  with  reliefs  and  inscrip- 
tions. The  beautiful  execution  of  these  recalls  the  contemporary 
sculptures  at  Abydos  (p.  238).  The  original  building  was  518  ft.  in 
length ,  but  of  this  only  the  actual  sanctuary  with  its  halls  and 
chambers,  154  ft.  in  depth,  remains,  while  there  are  but  scanty 
relics  of  the  former  courts  and  pylons. 

The  Colonnade  on  the  front  of  the  temple  originally  displayed 
10  clustered  papyrus-columns  with  bud-capitals,  but  only  8  are  now 
left.  On  the  architrave  is  the  dedicatory  inscription  of  Ramses  II.  In 
its  inner  wall  are  three  doors  (PL  a,  6,  c),  which  lead  into  the  three 
divisions  of  the  temple.  On  this  wall,  to  the  left  of  Pi.  6,  are  repre- 
sentations of  the  provinces  of  Upper  Egypt  (a  man  and  woman  alter- 
nately), bearing  dedicatory  gifts ;  to  the  right,  similar  reliefs  of  the 
provinces  of  Lower  Egypt.  The  former  have  lilies  on  their  heads, 
the  latter  papyri  —  the  floral  emblems  of  the  two  regions.  Above 
the  former  the  king  offers  incense  to  the  bark  of  Amon  carried  by 
priests;  above  the  latter  the  king  appears  before  various  deities. 

Passing  through  the  middle  door  (PI.  h)  we  enter  a  Hypostyle 
Hall  with  6  papyrus-bnd  columns,  flanked  on  each  side  by  three 
chambers  (PI.  d-«).  On  the  slabs  of  the  roof  of  the  middle  aisle  appear 
the  winged  sun-disk,  flying  vultures,  and  the  names  of  Sethos  I., 
between  two  vertical  rows  of  hieroglyphics.  The  low  reliefs  on  the 
walls  show  Sethos  I.  and  Ramses  II.  sacrificing  to  various  deities. 
Those  at  PI.  a  and  at  PI.  p  represent  respectively  Mut  and  Hathor  of 
Dendera  nourishing  Sethos.  —  Side  Chambers.  Chamber  g  is  ruined; 
the  ceilings  in  Chambers  d,  f,  and  h  are  in  good  condition.  The 
finely  executed  reliefs  in  Chambers  c,  f,  h,  and  i  depict  Sethos  I. 
offering  sacrifices  or  performing  sacred  ceremonies  in  presence  of 
various  deities.  In  Chamber  i:  on  the  left  wall,  Thout  before  the 
sacred  bark  of  the  king;  on  the  right  wall,  (left)  the  king  seated  at 
the  banquet  with  the  goddess  of  the  temple  behind  him,  and  (right) 
the  king  in  priestly  vestments  performing  ceremonies  before  him- 
self; on  the  rear  wall,  the  king  as  the  god  Osiris,  seated  in  a  chapel, 
surrounded  by  other  gods.  In  Chamber  d  are  sunk  reliefs  of  Ram- 
ses II.,  showing  (right)  the  king  pacing  off  the  temple  (comp.  p.  306) 
before  Amon  and  Amunet,   and  (left)  the  king  burning  incense 


Hu  i 


^•^•^  Wil      nwiMy 


Cham  be  rs 


|-         Second    (de-    stroyedl   Pylon 


3.  Kurna.  THEBES  (^W.  BANK).  20.  Koule.    283 

before  Anion,  Khons,  and  Mut.  —  On  the  right  and   left  walls 
of  the  Sanctuary  Sethos  appears  offering  incense  before  the  boat 

of  Anion. 

AVe  now  turn  to  the  Right  DrvisioN  of  the  temple,  which  is  in  a 
very  ruinous  condition.  It  consisted  of  the  large  Court  of  the  Altar 
(Hall  of  Ramses  II.)  and  of  several  rooms  adjoining  it.  The  sunk 
reliefs  of  Kamses  11.  sacrificing  to  various  gods  are  inferior  to  those 
of  the  central  building  and  left-hand  portion  of  the  sanctuary. 

We  come  out  to  the  colonnade  through  Door  c,  and  enter  through 
Door  a  to  visit  the  LeftDivisiox  of  the  temple.  In  the  small  Chapel 
of  Ramses  I.  (borne  by  two  papyrus-bud  columns)  are  high  reliefs, 
which  were  probably  usurped'  by  Ramses  II. :  to  the  right  the  king 
kneeling  before  Amon,  Khons,  and  the  deified  Sethos,  while  be- 
hind him  is  Mut.  —  Adjoining  are  three  Chambers  (PI.  .'1,  B,  C). 
On  the  side-walls  of  the  central  chamber  (PI.  A~)  Sethos  I.  offers 
incense  to  the  boat  of  Amon  and  anoints  his  father  Ramses  I. 
with  his  linger.  On  the  rear  wall  is  a  double  door-shaped  stele  to 
Ramses  I.,  with  a  representation  of  the  Osiris-coftln  of  the  king,  on 
which  Isis  is  seated  in  the  form  of  a  falcon.  The  two  other  rooms 
(PI.  B  and  C)  were  built  by  Ramses  II.  and  contain  rather  rude 
reliefs  (the  king  before  the  gods).  —  A  side-door  (Pi.  /)  leads  from 
the  chapel  of  Ramses  I.  to  a  narrow  Corridor,  the  left  wall  of  which 
is  now  represented  only  by  the  lowest  courses  of  masonry.  Thence 
we  enter  (to  the  right)  Room  7),  with  sunk  reliefs  dating  from  Ram- 
ses II.,  showing  that  king  and  his  father  Sethos  sacrificing  before 
various  deities  and  performing  other  sacred  rites.  —  A  small  Door 
(PI.  m)  leads  out  of  the  corridor  back  into  the  colonnade. 

To  the  N.,  among  the  spurs  of  the  Libyan  mountains,  lies  the  Necro- 
polis of  Drah  Abu'l  Negga,  one  of  the  oldest  cemeteries  of  Thebes.  The 
treasures  discovered  here  by  Mariette's  excavations  were  of  extraordinary 
value  (comp.  p.  &8).  Tombs  of  the  11th,  13th,  and  17th  Dynasties  were 
found ,  but  they  have  all  been  destroyed.  The  Rock  Tombs  on  the  hill- 
slope  of  Drah  Abu'l  Negga,  dating  from  the  time  of  the  New  Empire, 
are  comparatively  uninteresting  (opened  by  the  keeper;  small  fee).  Those 
most  worthy  of  inspection  are;  No.  11.  Tomh  of  Thuti,  a  prince  and  pre- 
sident of  the  treasury,  with  long  inscriptions;  from  this  tomb  a  long  pas- 
sage in  the  rock  leads  to  the  next  one  (No.  12),  on  the  left  side-wall  of 
which  funeral  scenes  are  depicted.  No.  13.  Tomb  of  Shuroi,  adorned  with 
beautiful  funeral  scenes.  No.  17.  Tomb  of  Xeb-Amun,  chief  physician  and 
secretary  of  Amem.phis  III. ;  on  the  right  half  of  the  back-wall  of  the 
vestibule  are  interesting  repre-sentations  of  Asiatics ;  the  beautiful  ceiling- 
ornamentation  also  should  be  noticed.  No.  19.  Tomb  of  Amenmose,  the  high- 
priest  of  King  Amenophis  I.;  on  the  end-wall  to  the  left  are  seen  the 
funeral  procession  and  the  burial  ceremonies;  on  the  right  side  of  the 
hack-wall  the  sacred  boat,  containing  the  image  of  the  deified  king  Araeno- 
l>his  1.,  is  being  carried  out  of  the  temple  of  which  the  deceased  was 
high-priest.  Similar  scenes  are  depicted  on  the  other  walls.  No.  20.  Tomb 
of  Mentu-her-khopshef,  royal  fan-bearer,  with  representations  of  the  funeral. 
No.  24.  Tomb  of  Neb-Amun,  president  of  the  royal  chancery  in  the  time  of 
Thntmosis  III.,  with  tasteful  stucco  reliefs  (funeral  scenes,  fields  of  the 
blessed,  banquet).  No.  148.  Tomb  of  Amenemopel.  a  high-priest  in  the  time 
of  Bamses  II. ,  with  colossal  statues  and  good  reliefs  representing  the 
deceased  and  his  relatives. 


284:   Route  20.  THEBKS  (W.  BANK).     4.  Bibdnd-Muluk: 


4.  Blb&n  el-HuMk.   Tombs  of  the  Kings. 

The  TouBs  of  thb  Kings  at  BJban  el-MulCk  belong  to  the  18-20th  Dyn- 
asties, and,  in  contrast  to  the  pyramids  that  mark  the  graves  of  kings  up 
to  the  beginning  of  the  New  Empire,  consist  of  a  series  of  passages  and 
chambers  hewn  in  the  rock.  Like  the  corridors  within  the  pyramids  they 
were  intended  only  for  the  reception  of  the  sarcophagus ;  the  temples 
dedicated  to  the  manes  of  the  deceased,  in  which  the  offerings  to  the  dead 
were  made,  were  built  in  the  plain. 

The  Stsucture  of  the  tombs  is  practically  the  same  in  all.  T/iree 
Corridors,  placed  one  beyond  the  other,  led  into  the  innermost  recesses. 
Small  side -chambers  sometimes  opened  off  the  first  corridor,  and  re- 
cesses for  the  reception  of  the  furniture  of  the  dead  were  provided  in 
the  second  and  third.  The  third  corridor  led  into  an  Anteroom,  beyond 
which  lay  the  Afain  Sail,  where,  in  a  hollow  in  the  floor,  the  heavy 
granite  sarcophagus  was  deposited.  The  main  hall,  the  roof  of  which  was 
frequently  supported   by  pillars,    was   often  adjoined  by  other  chambers. 

The  Walls  of  the  tombs,  from  the  entrance  to  the  final  chamber, 
were  covered  with  sacred  pictures  and  texts,  a  knowledge  of  which  was 
essential  for  the  deceased  in  the  future  life.  The  prevailing  conception 
at  Biban  el-Muliik  was  that  the  deceased  king,  as  companion  of  the  sun- 
god  (or  rather  absorbed  in  the  sun-god),  sailed  through  the  underworld 
at  night  in  a  boat ;  thus  those  scenes  and  texts  were  preferred  which  de- 
scribed this  voyage  and  instrncted  the  deceased  as  to  the  exact  route.  These 
texts  were  chiefly  taken  from  two  books  closely  related  to  each  other. 
One  was  called  ^T/ie  Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  UnderworldC .  According  to 
this,  the  underworld  (Twet;  p.  cxlviii)  is  divided  into  12  regions  ('Caverns'), 
corresponding  to  the  12  hours  of  night ;  and  the  descriptions  in  the 
book  were  therefore  likewise  in  12  chapters.  In  each  of  these  the 
river  bearing  the  boat  of  the  sun  is  represented  in  the  middle;  in  the 
boat  stands  the  ram-headed  sun -god,  surrounded  by  his  retinue,  and 
bringing  for  a  short  time  light  and  life  to  the  regions  he  traverses. 
Above  and  below  are  shown  the  two  banks  of  the  river,  thronged  by  all 
manner  of  spirits,  daemons,  and  monsters,  which  greet  the  sun  and  ward 
off  his  enemies. 

The  second  book,  known  as  the  ''Book  of  the  Oates\  reproduces  the 
same  conceptions.  The  nocturnal  journey  of  the  sun  through  the  12  re- 
gions of  the  underworld  is  again  represented.  Massive  gates  or  pylons, 
guarded  by  gigantic  serpents,  separate  one  region  from  another 5  each 
serpent  bears  a  name  known  to  the  sun-god,  and  the  deceased  must  know 
it  also.  Two  gods  and  two  fire -spitting  snakes  guard  the  approach  and 
greet  the  sun-god. 

A  third  work,  which  may  be  called  Tfte  Sun''s  Journey  in  the  Under- 
worlcT,  contains  still  more  gloomy  and  unattractive  representations.  The 
sun-god  has  arrived  in  the  underworld  and  addresses  a  speech  to  the 
spirits  and  monsters,  which  are  carefully  depicted  in  long  rows. 

Recourse  was  had  to  other  works  also  for  the  decoration  of  the  kings' 
tombs.  The  chief  of  these  were  the  '■Praising  of  Re'  and  '•The  Book  of 
the  Opening  of  the  Mouth\  The  former,  which  was  used  in  the  first  cor- 
ridors, contains  a  long-winded  hymn  to  the  sun-god,  to  be  recited  in  the 
evening  as  the  sun  entered  the  underworld.  In  the  course  of  the  hymn 
the  god  is  invoked  under  75  different  names  and  is  depicted  in  as  many 
forms.  —  The  text  and  illustrations  in  the  second  of  these  works  teach 
the  multifarious  ceremonies  which  had  to  be  performed  before  the  statue 
of  the  deceased  king  in  order  to  ensure  it  the  use  of  its  organs,  so  as  to 
enable  it  to  eat  and  drink  in  the  tomb. 

Strabo  tells  of  40  tombs  'worthy  of  a  visit',  the  scholars  of  the  French 
Expedition  mention  11,  while  at  present  60  are  known,  but  only  16  of 
these  are  accessible.  Pausanias,  j'Elian,  Heliodorus,  Ammianus  Marcellinus, 
and  other  ancient  authors  refer  to  them  as  the  Syringes  (au'piyyE?)  of 
Thebes,  from  the  resemblance  of  the   long   corridors   to   the  reeds  of  a 


Tombs  of  the  Kiuys.     THEBES  (W.  BANK).       iH).  Route.    285 

shepherd's  pipe.    The  name   occurs  also   in  the  Greek  inscriptions  within 
the  tombs. 

There  are  two  routes  from  the  Temple  of  Sethos  at  Kurna  (p. 282) 
to  Biban  el-Muluk  (a  donkey-ride  of  3/4  hr.).  The  lower  of  these  is 
described  below.  The  mountain  -  track  via  El-Asasif  and  Deir 
el-Bahri  is  better  followed  on  the  return  (comp.  p.  299). 

The  well-kept  lower  route  leaves  the  necropolis  of  Drah  Abu'l 
Negga  (p. 283)  to  the  left,  and  winds,  first  to  the  N.W.,  then  to  the 
W.,  up  the  southernmost  of  two  desert-valleys  known  as  the  Wddiyein 
('the  two  valleys').  The  gorge  gradually  contracts,  betwetn  walls  of 
naked  yellowish  rock  on  which  the  midday  sun  pours  its  perpendic- 
ular rays,  and  a  gloomy  solitude  broods  over  the  scene,  which  is  of 
a  sublimity  unmatched  elsewhere  in  the  Nile  valley.  Signs  of  life 
are  rare ;  a  desert-plant  waves  here  and  there ;  jackals,  wolves,  eagles, 
falcons,  owls,  bats,  snakes,  flies,  and  wasps  are  practically  the  only 
inhabitants  of  the  gorge. 

After  riding  for  about  2/4  hr.  through  the  valley  we  reach 
a  place  where  the  road  divides.  The  right  branch  leads  to  the 
seldomer  visited  W.  Tombs  of  the  Kings  (p.  298).  The  left  branch 
leads  to  the  — 

Bib&n  el-Mulflk  proper.  We  dismount  at  a  wooden  barrier  near 
Tombs  6  and  7. 

The  most  important  tombs  (Nos.  6,  8,  9,  11,  16,  17,  <t  35)  are  lighteil 
up  by  electricity  daily  (9-1)  from  Nov.  15th  to  March  I5th.  After  the  visit 
to  Tomb  11  we  should  proceed  to  Tomb  35.  Hurried  or  fatigued  travellers 
may  content  themselves  with  the  tombs  of  Ramses  VI.  (9),  Amcnephthes  (8), 
Amenophis  II.  (35),  and  Sethos  I.  (17),  The  other  accessible  tombs  (un- 
lighted)  are  Nos.  1-4,  14,  15,  19,  34,  &  47,  but  they  are  of  interest  only 
to  specialists.  Any  other  tombs  than  these  may  be  visited  only  by  ex- 
press permission  from  the  general  inspector  at  Luxor.  We  describe  the 
tombs  in  numerical  order. 

The  tombs  occur  both  in  the  main  valley  and  in  its  branches  and 
are  made  accessible  by  easy  paths,  which,  unfortunately,  somewhat 
impair  the  imposing  impression  of  solitude  made  by  the  valley.  — 
On  the  right  (W.)  side  of  the  path:  — 

No.  1.  Tomb  of  Ramses  X.,  Yet-Amun.  A  Greek  inscription  proves 
that  it  was  known  and  accessible  in  Greek  times. 

No.  2.  Tomb  of  Bamses  IV.  An  ancient  staircase,  with  an  in- 
clined plane  in  the  centre,  leads  to  the  entrance.  Above  the  door 
are  Isis  and  Nephthys  worshipping  the  solar  disk,  in  which  stand 
the  ram-headed  sun-god  and  a  scarabaeus.  On  the  right  wall,  behind 
the  door,  are  two  Copts  raising  their  hands  in  prayer ;  an  inscription 
indicates  one  of  these  as  'Apa  Ammonios,  the  martyr'. 

To  the  left ,  in  Corbidok  I  (comp.  the  Plan,  p.  286) ,  appears  the 
king  worshipping  the  falcon-headed  sun-god  Harakhte.  The  other  walls 
of  this  and  the  following  Corbidob  II  are  adorned  with  te.xts  and  figures 
of  the  sun -god  from  the  'Praising  of  Re'  (p.  284).  Corbidob  HI  shows 
texts  and  pictures  of  gods  and  spirits  from  the  'Sun's  .Tourney  in  the 
Underworld'  (p.  284).  —  Anteeoom  IV  has  te.xts  from  the  Book  of  the 
Dead  (p.  284),  the  chief  being  the  125th  chapter,  which  contains  the  justi- 
fication of  the  deceased. 


286   Route  20.         THEBES  (W.  BANK).      4.  BlhCmel-MuLuk: 


\I\' 


m 


EooM  V,  the  maiu  chamber,  contains  the  Granite  Sarcophagus  of  the 
King,  which  is  lOVz  ft-  long,  7  ft.  broad,  and  8  ft.  high,  and  is  adorned 
with  inscriptions  and  designs.  On  the  Left  Walls  are  shown  the  first  two 
chapters  of  the  'Book  of  the  Gates'  (p.  284).  Chapter  J 
(beginning  at  the  left  of  the  entrance)  shows  the  portal 
guarded  by  the  serpent  Senekht,  Next  follows  the  first 
region  of  the  underworld.  In  the  middle  floats  the  boat, 
in  which  the  ram-headed  sun-god  stands  beneath  a  canopy 
with  a  coiled  serpent  above  it ;  before  him  kneels  the 
king,  presenting  to  him  an  image  of  the  goddess  of  truth. 
Four  inhabitants  of  the  underworld  tow  the  boat  by  a 
cord,  while  various  gods  come  to  meet  it.  In  the  upper 
row  appear  the  blessed  dead,  while  in  the  lower  row  are 
the  condemned,  some  lying  on  the  ground  dead,  others 
fettered,  while  the  god  Atum  watches  them,  leaning  on 
his  staff.  Chapter  II  shows  the  gate  of  the  second  region, 
guarded  by  the  serpent  Ekebi.  In  the  middle  appears 
the  boat  of  the  sun-god,  towed  by  S  men;  the  cord  passes 
through  a  hollow  beam  with  a  bull's  head  at  each  end, 
on  which  rest  7  small  figures  of  gods,  while  8  'bearers  of 
the  gods'  carry  the  beam  on  their  shoulders.  In  the  upper 
row  we  see  various  gods  in  their  dwellings,  the  doors  of 
which  open  as  the  sun-god  approaches ;  above  them  coils 
a  huge  snake.  Farther  to  the  right  gods  peep  forth  from 
a  lake  of  fire.  In  the  lower  row,  to  the  left,  Atum  leans 
upon  his  staff;  by  spells  he  has  rendered  the  snake 
Apophis,  the  foe  of  the  aun-god,  innocuous,  and  it  now 
lies  before  him,  watched  by  9  gods,  'who  ward  off  the 
snake'.     To  the  right  are  Atum  and  other  gods. 

JVo.  3,  to  the  left  of  the  path,  is  half-filled  with 

rubbish;  it  was  originally  intended  for  Ramses  III. 

^0,  4.    Tomb  of  Ramses  XII. ,  the  last  of  the 

Ivamessides.   This  tomb  has  no  representations  and 

1/  is  unfinished. 

No.  5,  farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  entrance  to 
a  corridor. 

*No.  6.  Tomb  of  Ramses  IX.,  Nefer-ke-re 
(lighted),  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps  with  an 
inclined  plane  in  the  centre.  On  the  staircase  to 
the  right  is  an  unfinished  inscription  of  the  king. 
On  the  door-lintel  is  the  disk,  with  the  king  on 
both  sides  worshipping  it.  Behind  the  latter  are 
(1.)  Isis  and  (r.)  Nephthys. 

CoEEiDOE  1  (comp.  the  Plan ,  p.  287).  At  the  be- 
ginning of  the  Left  Wall  is  a  chapel,  beside  which  (PI.  a) 
the  king  stands  before  Harakhte  and  Osiris.  Two  doors 
farther  on  admit  to  small  chambers  without  decoration ; 
over  the  doors  is  a  text  from  the  'Praising  of  Re'.  At 
PI.  6  is  a  text  from  the  126th  chapter  of  the  'Book  of 
the  Dead'  (p.  284),  beneath  which  a  priest,  clad  like 
the  god  Hor-En-metf,  pours  the  symbols  for  'life',  'constancy',  and  'wealth' 
upon  the  king,  who  is  clad  like  Osiris.  On  the  Right  Wall,  at  PI.  c,  we  see 
the  king  in  a  chapel  before  Amon  and  Merit-seger,  a  goddess  of  the  dead. 
Two  doors  here  also  admit  to  side-chambers.  Over  the  doors  and  at  PI.  d 
are  representations  of  serpents  and  of  spirits  with  the  heads  of  dogs  and 
bulls.  The  text  contains  the  beginning  of  the  'Sun's  Journey  in  the  Under- 
world' (p.  284). 


Tombs  of  the  Kimj!<.     THEBES  (W.  BANK).       20.  Route.   2S1 


CoBKiDOK  2.  On  the  Left  Wall,  at  PI.  e,  is  a  serpent  rearing  itself,  to 
the  right  of  which  and  in  the  recess  are  figiires  of  the  sun-god  (from  the 
'Praising  of  Re').  Below  the  reeess  is  the  king  followed  by  Hathor.  At 
PI./  is  a  text  from  the  'Book  of  the  Dead";  farther  to  the  right  the  king, 
over  whom  hovers  a  falcon,  appears  before  the  falcon -hcailod  Khons- 
Neferhotep.  On  the  Right  Wall,  at  PI.  ff,  is  a  ser- 
pent; and  at  PI.  h,  daemons  and  spirits  (frequently 
enclosed  in  oval  rings).    On  the  Ceiling  are  stars. 

CoKKiDOR  3.  On  the  Left  Wall  is  the  course  of 
the  sun  during  the  second  hour  of  night  and  the 
beginning  of  the  course  during  the  third  hour.  On 
the  Right  Wall,  at  PI.  ;',  the  king  presents  an  image 
of  Maat  to  Ptah,  beside  whom  stands  the  goddess 
Maat.  Adjacent  at  PI.  k  is  a  representation  of  the 
resurrection :  the  mummy  of  the  king  lies  across  a 
mountain,  with  the  arms  raised  above  the  head; 
above  are  a  scarabsrus  and  the  sun-disk.  At  PI.  /, 
»»,  and  71  three  rows  of  daemons  are  shown,  one 
above  the  other.  In  the  top  row  are  S  suns,  in  each 
of  which  is  a  black  man  standing  upon  bis  head  ; 
in  the  central  row  are  serpents  pierced  by  arrows, 
praying  women  standing  upon  mounds,  and  a  scara- 
biius  in  a  boat,  ending  at  stem  and  stern  in  ser- 
pents' heads;  in  the  lowest  row  are  damons  upon 
serpents,  also  four  men  bent  backwards,  spitting  out 
scarabcei,  etc. 

Room  4.  At  PI.  o  a,nd  p  appear  two  priests,  each 
with  a  panther-skin  and  side -lock,  sacrificing  be- 
fore a  standard. 

Room  5.  This  room,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  sup- 
ported by  four  pillars,  and  then  a  passage  lead  down- 
wards to  Room  6,  which  contained  the  sarcophagus. 
On  the  walls  are  gods  and  spirits.  On  the  vaulted 
ceiling  are  two  figures  of  the  goddess  of  the  sky 
(representing  the  morning  and  evening  sky),  beneath 
whom  are  constellations,  boats  of  the  stars,  etc. 

Opposite,  on  the  right  side  of  the  path,  is  No.  7,  the  Tomb  of 
Ramses  II.,  filled  up  with  ruhbish.  This  tomb  was  plundered  in 
antiquity.  The  mummy  of  Kaiiises  II.  was  found  in  the  shaft  of 
Delr  el-Bahri  and  is  now  in  the  Cairo  Museum  (comp.  pp.  93,  96). 

*No.  S,  the  Tomb  of  Amenephthes  (Merenptah;  lighted),  lies  in 
a  side-gorge,  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  path.   Over  the  entrance  are 


LS:i 


^r 


O          J        K 

>       li       20 

-^  m 

o    msoao 

»S0  607 

^  8ppt 

-. 

, 

r 

\^sm^^^h:-^^^^m 


Isis  and  Nephtliys  worshipping  the  sun-disk,  in  which  are  a  scara- 
bffius  and  the  ram-headed  sun-god. 

Entrance  Corbidoks.  adorned  with  texts  from  the  'Book  of  the  Praising 
of  Re',  with  figures  of  gods,  and  with  scenes  from  the  realm  of  the  dead 
(from  the  'Book  of  the  Gates'),  lead  down  somewhat  steeply  to  an  Ante- 
room (PI.  1),  in  which  lies  the  granite  lid  of  the  outer  sarcophagus.    Farther 


2SS   Route  20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK),      t .  B'tbrnieL-MuLak: 


on  steps  descend  into  a  Vaulted  Cuaubbb  (PI.  2),  supported  by  pillars  and 
containing  the  *Lid  of  the  Royal  Sarcophagus,  on  wliich  the  figure  of  the 
ruler  rests  as  on  a  mattress.  The  lid,  which,  as  usual,  is  in  the  form  of 
a  cartouche  (p.  cxxvi),  is  beautifully  executed  in  pink  granite.  The  face  is 
very  impressive  when  lighted  up  by  electricity.  The  chambers  adjoining 
and  behind  the  Vaulted  Chamber  are  unimportant  and  inaccessible. 

*]So.  9.    Tomb   of  Kamses  VI., 

Neb-ma-re  (lighted).  This  tomb  was 
named  by  the  French  Expedition 
La  Tornbe  de  la  Metempsycose,  and 
by  British  scholars,  following  the 
traditions  of  the  Romans,  the  Tomb 
of  Memnon,  as  Ramses  VI.  bore  the 
same  praenomen  as  Amenophis  III. 
(p.  t;ii),  who  was  called  Memnon  by 
the  Greeks.  The  tomb,  which  was 
originally  intended  for  Ramses  V.,  is 
distinguished  by  the  excellent  pre- 
servation of  its  coloured  reliefs. 

Three  Corridors  (PI.  A,  B,  C)  lead 
to  an  Antkchambee  (PI.  D)  and  then  on 
to  the  First  Pillared  Room  (PI.  £), 
with  which  the  original  construction  of 
Ramses  V.  ended.  On  the  left  walls 
of  these  chambers  appears  the  journey 
of  the  sun  through  the  realms  of  the  dead 
as  related  in  the  'Book  of  the  Gates' 
(p.  'i84).  On  the  walls  to  the  right  are 
other  texts  and  pictures  relating  to  the 
world  beyond  the  tomb.  On  three  pillars 
in  the  Pillared  Room  is  seen  the  king 
sacrificing  to  the  gods  of  the  dead;  the 
ceiling  is  adorned  with  astronomical 
tables.  Two  Corridors  (PI.  F,  O),  the 
walls  of  which  depict  the  subterranean 
journey  of  the  god  of  the  sun,  accord- 
ing to  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the 
Underworld',  lead  to  a  Second  Vestibdlb 
(PI.  ff),  the  walls  of  which  are  covered 
with  inscriptions  and  scenes  from  the 
'Book  of  the  Dead'.  The  wall  to  the 
left  is  occupied  by  chapter  125,  which 
deals  with  the  justification  of  the  de- 
ceased before  the  judges  of  the  dead. 
Next  comes  the  Second  Pillared  Room 
(PI.  /),  still  containing  remnants  of  the 
great  granite  sarcophagus.  On  the  walls 
are  astronomical  representations.  On  Ihe 
right  wall  appears  the  boat  of  the  sun, 
in  which  the  sun-god  stands  in  the  shape 
of  a  beetle  with  a  ram's  head,  and  is 
worshipped  by  two  human-headed  birds, 
the  souls  of  the  sun-gods  Khepre  and 
Atum.  The  boat  is  being  drawn  across 
the  heavens,  which  are  supported  by  two  lions,  and  descends  to  the  left. 
In  the  rear  wall  is  a  niche  (PI.  K).  On  the  ceiling  the  goddess  of  the  sky 
appears  twice,  representing  the  sky  by  day  and  by  night,  with  the  hours.  — 
This  tomb  contains  numerous  Greek  and  Coptic  inscriptions . 


Tombs  of  the  Kings.     TUEBES  (^W.  BANK).       '20.  Route. 


289 


No.  10  is  the  Tomb  of  Ainen-ineses.,  one  of  the  claimants  of  the 
throne  at  the  end  of  the  19th  Dyn.  (p.  ciii).    His  mother  Takhat 
and  his  wife  Beket-weier  also  were 
buried  here.    The  representations  in 
this    tomb    have    been   deliberately 
destroyed. 

'^'^No.  1 1 .  Tomb  of  Ramses  III. 
(lighted).  This  imposing  tomb,  usu- 
ally called  'Bruce's  Tomb'  (after  its 
discoverer)  or  '■The  Harper's  Toinb\ 
is  inferior  in  size  to  Nos.  17  and  14 
only.  The  execution  of  the  sculp- 
tures is  not  the  best,  but  their  variety 
is  exceptional.  This  tomb  possesses 
a  unique  peculiarity  in  the  ten  side- 
chambers,  opening  off  the  first  two 
corridors.  The  tomb  was  begun  and 
finished  as  far  as  Room  III  by  Seth- 
nakht,  father  of  Ramses  III. ;  his  car- 
touches are  stUl  to  be  seen  at  various 
places  where  the  later  stucco  has 
fallen  off. 

The  entrance  is  approached  by 
the  usual  flight  of  steps  with  an  in- 
clined plane  in  the  middle;  on  each 
side  of  it  are  two  pilasters  adorned 
with  cows'  heads.  On  the  lintel  of 
the  door  is  the  usual  representation 
of  Isis  and  Nephthys  worshipping 
the  sun-disk,  in  which  are  a  scara- 
bicus  and  the  ram-headed  sun-god. 

CoERiDOK  I.  To  the  right  and 
left  of  the  entrance  are  kneeling 
figures  of  the  goddess  of  truth, 
sheltering  those  who  enter  with  her 
wings.  On  the  Left  Wall  is  the  king 
before  Harakhte,  followed  by  the 
title  of  the  'Praising  of  lie",  the  sun 
between  a  serpent,  a  crocodile,  and 
two  gazelles'  heads.  Then  follows 
the  text  of  the  'Praising  of  Ifo', 
which  is  continued  on  the  Right 
Wall.  —  Side  Chambek  1  (to  the 
left)  :  Baking ,  slaughtering ,  and 
cooking  scenes.  —  Side  Chamber  2 

(to  the  right):  Two  rows  of  ships,  in  the  upper  row  with  sails 
set,  in  the  lower  row  with  sails  furled. 


290    Route  20.       THEBES  eW.  BANK).     4.  Bibdnel-MulCik: 

Corridor  II,  with  chambers  on  both  sides.    On  both  sides  the 
'Praising  of  Re  is  continued,  with  the  appropriate  llgures  of  tlie 
sun-god  (p.  284),  who  approach  Isis  on  the  left  wall  and  Nephthys 
on  the  right.  —  Side  Chamber  3  (to  the  left).    In  the  Upper  Row 
(beginning  on  the  entrance-wall,  to  the  left)  we  see  a  kneeling  Nile- 
god  bestowing  his  gifts  upon  seven  gods  of  fertility  (with  ears  of 
corn  on  their  heads  )j  and  (beginning  on  the  entrance-wall,   to  the 
light)  a  Nile-god  before  the  serpent-headed  goddess  Napret  ('corn'), 
Ave  Uraeus-snakes,  clad  with  aprons,  and  two  gods  of  fertility.  In  the 
dilapidated  LowJcrJioio,  to  the  left,  the  Nile-god  of  Upper  Egypt  pre- 
sents gifts  to  ten  clothed  Urai ;  to  the  right,  the  Nile-god  of  Lower 
Egypt  before  Napret  and  three  Uraei.  —  Side  Chamber  4  (to  the 
right)  may  be   called  the  king's  armoury,  for  its  walls  are  covered 
with  representations  of  weapons,  standards,  armour,  etc.     On  the 
Entrance  Walt  the  sacred  black  bull  Meri  stands  on  the  'southern 
lake'  (to  the  left)  and  the  black  cow  Hesi  upon  the  'northern  lake' 
(to  the  right).  On  the  Left  Wall^  at  the  top  :  standards  with  pictures 
of  sacred  animals,  heads  of  the  goddess  llathor,  etc.    On  the  Rear 
Wall,   at  the  top,  are  arrows,  bows,  quivers.    On  the  Right  Wall, 
at  the  top,  are  standards  with  gods'  heads.    The  lower  representations 
have  been  destroyed.  —  Siue  Chamber  5  (to  the  left).  In  the  upper 
row  are  various  local  deities  (alternately  hermaphroditic  and  female) 
with  offerings;  in  the  lower  row  are  kneeling  Nile-gods.  —  Side 
Chamber  6  (to  the  right)  is  the  king's  'treasury'.    On  its  walls  are 
depicted  utensils  and  furniture  of  various  kinds :  vases,  jars,  bottles 
(including  so-called  false-necked  vases,  such  as  were  imported  from 
Greece),  elephants'  tusks,  necklaces,  and  couches  with  head-rests 
and  ascended  by  steps.  —  Side  Chamber  7  (to  the  left).    On  each 
side  of  the  Entrance  the  guardian  spirit  of  the  king  is  shown,  bearing 
a  staff  ending  in  a  king's  head.    On  the  other  walls  are  two  rows  of 
representations  of  rowers  with  serpents  and  sacred  cattle.    The  lower 
row  is  much  damaged.  —  In  Side  Chamber  8  (to  the  right)  we  see 
the  sacred  fields,  with  ploughing,  sowing,  reaping,  etc.,  going  on; 
the  king  sails  by  on  a  canal.  —  Side  Chamber  9  (to  the  left).    To 
the  left  we  see  a  harper  singing  to  Enhuret  and  the  falcon-headed 
god  of  the  sun.     To  the  right  is  a  similar  representation  in  a  very 
mutilated  condition.  The  text  of  the  songs  is  inscribed  on  the  entrance- 
wall.  —  Side  Chamber  10  (to  the  right).    Twelve  different  forms 
of  Osiris. 

Room  HI  represents  the  usual  third  corridor,  the  tomb  here 
having  had  to  be  deflected  to  the  right  in  order  to  avoid  the  adjoining 
tomb  No.  10.  On  the  Rear  Wall  is  a  goddess,  representing  the  South, 
raising  a  water-jar.  The  king  appears  on  the  other  walls  sacrificing 
to  various  gods.  —  Corridor  IV.  The  journey  of  the  sun  during  the 
4th  hour  (Left  Wall)  and  5th  hour  of  night  (Right  Wall)  is  here 
illustrated  from  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'  (p.  284). 
—  Room  V.    Figures  of  gods. 


Tomh.^  of  the  Kings.     THEBES  (W.  BANK).       SO.  Route.   291 

Room  VI  is  a  sloping  passage  with  side-galleries  supported  by 
four  pillars  on  which  is  depicted  tlie  king  liefore  various  gods.  On 
the  Left  Walls  (beginning  at  the  entrance-wall)  is  tlie  sun's  jour- 
ney through  the  4th  division  of  the  underworld  (4th  chapter  of 
the  'Book  of  the  Gates' ;  p.  2!^4).  In  the  bottom  row  the  represent- 
atives of  the  four  chief  races  of  men  known  to  the  ancient  Egyptians 
(p.  293)  should  be  noticed.  On  the  Right  Walls  is  the  journey 
through  the  5th  region  of  the  underworld  ('Book  of  the  Gates'). 
—  Room  VII.  Entrance  Wall:  to  the  right,  the  king  led  by  the 
god  Thout  and  the  falcon-headed  llar-khentekhta'i;  to  the  left,  the 
king  presenting  Osiris  with  an  image  of  truth.  Rear  Wall:  the 
king  (to  right  and  left)  in  presence  of  Osiris.  On  the  remaining 
spaces  are  scenes  from  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld' 
(deities  felling  trees,  etc.  L 

The  other  rooms,  which  are  not  lighted  by  electricity,  are  much 
damaged  and  need  detain  the  traveller  but  a  short  time.  —  Room  X, 
with  pillars,  contained  the  sarcophagus  of  the  king  (now  in  the 
Louvre,  the  lid  in  the  FitzwUliam  Museum  at  Cambridge).  The 
mummy  of  the  king,  now  at  Cairo  (p.  96),  was  found  hidden  at 
Deir  el-Bahri  (comp.  p.  93). 

No.  12.  Cave  without  inscriptions. 

No.  13,  very  low,  and  largely  filled  up,  was  not  a  king's  tomb, 
but  seems  to  have  belonged  to  Ba'i,  chief  minister  of  King  Siptah 
(19th  Dyn.). 

No.  Id,  originally  the  Tomb  of  Queen  Tewosret,  wife  of  Siptah 
(comp.  p.  99),  was  afterwards  appropriated  and  enlarged  by  Seth- 
nakht,  who  caused  the  names  and  figures  of  the  queen  to  be  covered 
with  stucco. 

No.  15.  Tomb  of  Sethos  11.  The  first  corridor  of  this  tomb  con- 
tains good  reliefs. 

*No.l6.  Tomb  of  Ramses  I.  (lighted).  A  wide  flight  of  steps  leads 
to  the  entrance.  Beyond  this  are  a  sloping  corridor  and  a  second 
flight  of  steps  (steep),  which  lead  to  the  Sarcophagus  Chambee. 
In  the  middle  stands  the  open  coffin  of  the  king,  in  red  granite,  with 
pictures  and  texts  in  yellow  paint.  The  walls  of  the  room  are  covered 
with  coloured  scenes  and  inscriptions  on  a  grey  ground. 

/entrance  Wall.  To  the  left,  Maat  and  Kamses  I.  before  Ptah,  behind 
whom  stanils  the  post  of  Osiris  (p.  cli).  To  the  right,  the  goddess  of 
truth  and  the  kinic  offering  wine  to  Nefertem ;  behind  the  god  is  the 
symbolic  knot  of  Isis.  —  Left  Wall.  To  the  left  of  the  door  leading  to 
a  small  side-room:  Ramses  I.  led  by  the  dog-headed  Anubis  and  the 
falcon-headed  Harsiesis.  To  the  right  of  the  door  and  above  it:  the  3rd 
chapter  of  the  'Book  of  the  Gates'.  Beyond  the  gate  guarded  by  the 
serpent  Zetbi  we  see  the  journey  through  the  third  region  of  the  under- 
world. In  the  middle  the  boat  is  being  drawn  by  4  men  towards  a  long 
chapel,  in  which  lie  the  mummies  of  9  gods.  Tlien  follow  12  goddesses, 
representing  the  hours  of  the  night;  these,  divided  into  two  groups  of 
six,  separated  by  a  serpent,  ascend  a  mountain,  beneath  which  is  a 
pond,  indicated  by  zigzag  lines.  —  In  the  Rear  Wall  opens  a  small 
chamber,  on  the  back-wall  of  which  is  represented  Osiris  between  a  ram- 
headed  deity  and  a  sacred  snake.    Abore  the  door  are  daemons  with  the 


292    Route  20.        THERES  (W.  RANK).     4.  Blhanel-Afulftk . 


heads  of  dogs  and  falcons  (the  souls  of  Pe  and  Nekhen).  On  the  rear 
wall,  farther  to  the  right:  Ramses  I.  dedicates  four  packages  to  ihe 
beetle- headed  sun -god  Atum-R«-Khepve; 
\7\r  1  IlarsiePis,    Atnm,    and    Neith    conduct    the 

□    J      0    3  king   to   tlie  throne   of  Osiris.  —   The  Right 

:  Wall,   pierced    by   the    entrance   to   a   small 

unadorned   chamber,   is   decorated   with   re- 
presentations   and    hieroglyphic    texts    from 
the  second  chapter  of  the 'Book  of  tlie  Gates' 
;j  (_'  -'      cp.  284). 

**iVo.  /  7.  Tomb  Of  Sethos  I.  (lighted), 
usually  known  as  BelzonVs  Tomb  from  its 
discoverer  in  Oct.,  1817.  The  reliefs  in 
this  tomb,  which  are  extraordinarily  well 
preserved,  far  surpass  all  others  at  Biban 
jY  el-Muluk  in  beauty  of  execution  and 

even  rival  those  at  Abydos  (p.  238).  In 
size  it  resembles  Nos.  11  and  14;  its 
length  is  328  ft.  A  flight  of  wooden 
steps  descends  to  the  entrance. 

Corridor  I.  On  the  Left  Wall  is  the 
king  before  the  falcon-headed  sun-god 
Harakhte.  Then  follows  the  title  of  the 
'Praising  of  Re'  (p.  284),  with  the  sun- 
disk  bearing  a  scarabaeus  and  the  ram- 
headed  sun-god ,  between  a  serpent,  a 
crocodile ,  and  two  cows'  heads.  The 
adjoining  text  is  taken  from  the  'Prais- 
ing of  Ke',  which  is  continued  on  the 
Right  Wall.  The  Ceiling  is  decorated 
with  hovering  vultures. 

Corridor  II  (with  staircase).  On 
the  upper  part  of  the  recess  in  the  Left 
Wall  are  represented  37  forms  of  the 
sun-god,  from  the  'Praising  of  Pie' 
(p.  284);  below  the  recess  is  a  text 
from  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the 
Underworld'.  This  is  repeated  on  the 
Right  Wall.  At  PI.  a  is  Isis,  at  PI.  b, 
Nephthys. 

Corridor  III.  On  the  Left  Wall 
(PI.  c)  is  the  journey  of  the  sun  during 
the  5th  hour  of  night,  from  the  5th 
chapter  of  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in 
the  Underworld'.  On  the  Right  Wall, 
at  PI.  d,  appears  the  journey  of  the  sun 
during  the  4th  hour  of  night,  from  the 
4th  chapter  of  the  'Book  of  him  who  is 
in  the  Underworld'. 


Tomhs  of  the  Kings.    THEBES  (W.  BANK).       20.  lioiite.  293 

Antechamber  JV.  Representations  of  the  king  in  the  presence 
of  various  deities. 

KooM  V,  with  pillars.  On  the  Left  Walls  is  the  .ionrney  of  the 
sun  through  the  4th  region  of  the  underworld,  from  the  4th  chapter 
of  the  'Book  of  the  Gates'. 

At  the  beginning  is  the  4th  gateway,  guarded  by  the  serpent  Teke-hor. 
In  the  Middle  Roto  appears  the  boat  of  the  sun  towed  by  f6ur  men,  preceded 
by  spirits  with  a  coiled  snake,  three  ibis-headed  gods,  and  nine  other 
gods  ('the  spirits  of  men  who  are  in  the  underworld').  To  the  right  is  a 
god  with  a  sceptre.  In  the  Top  Roto  various  men  greet  the  god,  while 
others  hold  a  twisted  cord.  In  the  Bottom  Row,  to  the  left,  is  Horus, 
before  whom  are  representatives  of  the  four  chief  races  of  men  known 
to  the  Egyptians,  viz.  four  'human  beings'  {i.e.  Egyptians),  four  Asiatic, 
with  pointed  beards  and  coloured  aprons,  four  negroes,  and  four  Libyans 
identified  by  the  feathers  on  their  heads  and  tlieir  tatooed  bodies.  Farther 
on  are  genii,  with  a  snake,  on  which  stand  the  hieroglyphs  for  'time',  etc 

On  the  Right  Walls  is  the  suns  journey  through  the  oth  region 
of  the  underworld,  from  the  5th  chapter  ol'  the  'Book  of  the  Gates'. 

Middle  Row:  The  boat  of  the  sun  towed  by  four  men,  preceded  by 
dffimons.  Top  Row:  Twelve  gods  with  forked  sticks,  twelve  gods  with  a 
serpent  from  which  human  heads  project,  and  twelve  gods  with  a  twisted 
cord  attached  to  a  mummy.  Bottom  Row:  A  god  leaning  upon  a  staff; 
twelve  mummies  upon  a  bier  formed  of  a  serpent,  etc. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Rear  Wall  is  Osiris  enthroned,  with  Hathor 
behind  him,  while  the  falcon-headed  Ilorus  leads  the  king  into  his 
presence.  On  the  Pillars  the  king  is  shown  before  various  deities. 

A  few  steps  lead  hence  to  Koom  VI,  the  decorations  of  which 
have  been  sketched  out  only.  On  the  Pillars  the  king  stands  in 
front  of  various  deities.  On  the  Left  Walls  is  the  journey  of  the 
sun  during  the  9th  hour  of  night,  from  the  9th  chapter  of  the 
'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'. 

Middle  Row:  The  boat  of  the  sun,  preceded  by  twelve  star-gods  with 
oars;  three  sacred  animals  (cow,  ram,  bird  with  a  human  head);  a 
mummy  standing  upright,  the  guardian-deity  of  the  sacrifices.  Top  Row : 
Twelve  genii  crouching  upon  curious  stands,  and  twelve  women.  Bottom 
Kou!  (partly  destroyed):  Serpents  spitting  lire  ;  men  with  sticks  ;  a  mummy. 

On  the  Rear  Wall  is  the  journey  of  the  sun  during  the  10th 
hour  of  night  (from  the  10th  chapter  of  the  same  book),  continued 
on  part  of  the  right  wall. 

Middle  Row:  The  boat  of  the  sun,  preceded  by  various  deities,  includ- 
ing falcons  upon  a  two-headed  serpent  with  four  legs;  four  spirits,  hav- 
ing sun-disks  in  place  of  heads,  carrying  arrows;  four  spirits  with  lances, 
and  tour  with  bows.  Top  Row:  A  god  with  a  sceptre;  scarabseus  rolling 
the  hieroglyph  for  'land'  before  it  with  its  fore-legs ;  the  patron-goddesses 
of  Upper  and  Lower  Egypt  seated  beside  two  erect  serpents,  bearing  the 
sun-disk;  two  godde-ses  beside  the  hierojilyph  for  'god',  upon  which  rests 
the  sun-disk;  goddesses  with  lions'  heads  and  human  heads,  etc.  Bottom 
Kotc  (partly  destroyed):  Horns  leaning  upon  his  .staff  watches  twelve  con- 
demned souls  swimming  in  the  waters  of  the  underworld  ;  four  goddesses 
with  serpents;  head  of  the  god  Selh  upon  a  sceptre. 

On  the  Rigid  Walls  is  the  journey  of  the  sun  during  the  llth  hour 
of  night  (from  the  llth  chapter  of  the  same  book). 

Middle  Row:  Boat  of  the  sun,  preceded  by  twelve  men  with  a  serpent; 
two  serpents  bearing  on  their  backs  the  two  Egyptian  crowns,  from 
which  beads  rroject ;  four  goddesses.    Top  Rott :  Two-headed  god  ;  serpent 


294   Route  20.      THEBES  (W.  RANK).      4.  Blban  el-M%Mk: 

(the  god  Atum),  with  four  legs  and  two  wings,  held  by  a  god  (the  soul  of 
Atum)  standing  behind;  the  constellation  of  the  'tortoise',  in  the  shape  of 
a  serpent  on  which  a  god  sits;  two-headed  god;  four  goddesses,  each 
seated  upon  two  serpents,  etc.  Lower  Row.  The  condemned.  The  enemies 
of  the  sun-god  are  being  burned  in  curious  furnaces,  under  the  inspection 
of  the  falcon-headed  Horns  (on  the  rij^ht);  adjacent  stand  goddesses  with 
swords,  breathing  flames;  in  the  last  furnace,  four  corpses  standing  on 
their  heads;  various  deities. 

We  return  to  Room  V,  whence  a  flight  of  18  steps ,  to  the  left, 
descends  through  Corridors  VII  &  VIII  to  Antechamber  IX,  where 
the  king  is  seen  hefore  Osiris,  Isis,  Harsiesis,  Hathor,  Anubis,  and 
other  gods  of  the  dead. 

Hall  X,  whence  an  incline  with  steps  at  the  side  leads  to  the 
muiiiray-shaft,  consists  of  two  portions  —  a  front  portion  with  pil- 
lars and  a  rear  portion  with  a  vaulted  ceiling.  The  scenes  in  the 
former  are  taken  from  the  'Book  of  the  (gates'  (p.  284).  —  The 
alabaster  sarcophagus  of  the  king,  now  in  the  Soane  Museum  in 
London,  stood  in  the  rear  portion  of  the  hall ;  the  mummy,  which 
was  hidden  at  Deir  el-Bahri,  is  now  in  the  Museum  of  Cairo  (p.  96). 
On  the  Left  Wall  here  the  king  is  shown  offering  a  libation  of  wine 
to  Harakhte.  Farther  on  the  journey  of  the  sun  during  the  1st  hour 
of  night  (^Ist  chapter  of  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld") 
is  represented  in  four  rows. 

In  the  two  Middle  Rows  we  see  (above)  the  boat  of  the  sun,  adorned  in 
front  with  a  rug  and  bearing  the  ram-headed  sun-god,  seven  other  gods, 
and  the  'mistress  of  the  boat'.  It  is  preceded  by  two  goddesses  of  truth, 
Osiris,  the  lion-headed  Sekhmet,  and  other  deities.  Below  in  his  boat  is 
the  sun-god,  in  the  form  of  a  scarabffius,  worshipped  by  two  figures  of 
(•siris;  in  front  are  three  serpents  and  several  deities.  In  the  Top  and 
Uoltom  Rows  (representing  the  banks  of  the  river)  are  small  square  panels, 
containing  representations  of  spirits  in  human  and  animal  shapes  (e.g. 
cynocephali,  fiery  serpents),  which  greet  the  god  on  his  entrance  into  the 
lower  world  or  drive  away  his  foes. 

In  a  Recess  at  the  end  of  the  left  wall  is  the  dog-headed  Anu- 
bis, performing  the  ceremony  of  the  'Opening  of  the  Mouth'  before 
Osiris  (comp.  p.  284).  —  On  the  Rear  Wall  is  the  journey  of  the 
sun  in  the  2nd  hour  of  night  (2nd  chapter  of  the  'Book  of  him 
who  is  in  the  Underworld'). 

Middle  Ro>".  In  the  boat  of  the  sun  the  sun-god  is  accompanied  by 
Isis  and  Neplithys,  in  the  form  of  Urseus-serpents.  In  front  of  it  are  four 
smialler  boats,  in  one  of  which  are  three  deities  without  arms,  in  the 
second  a  crocodile  with  a  human  head  upon  its  back,  in  the  third  (which 
is  decorated  with  two  gods'  heads)  a  sistrum,  two  goddesses,  and  a  scara- 
bffius,  and  in  the  fourth  (similarly  adorned)  a  god  holding  a  large  ostrich 
feather,  the  symbol  of  justice,  and  the  moon  upon  a  head-rest.  Top  and 
Bottom  Rows.     Various  spirits  and  daemons  to  protect  the  sun-god. 

On  the  RightWall  is  the  sun's  journey  during  the  3rd  hour  of  night 
(3rd  chapter  of  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'). 

In  the  Middle  Row  is  the  boat  of  the  sun,  preceded  by  three  smaller 
boats.  Four  gods,  with  arms  interlaced,  approach  to  meet  them.  In  the 
Top  and  Bottom  Roics  spirits  of  various  forms  (a  ram  with  a  sword,  five 
dopmons  with  birds'  heads,  etc.)  greet  the  procession. 

On  the  vaulted  Ceiling  are  some  interesting  astronomical  figures, 
lists  of  the  so-called  decani-stars,  constellations,  etc. 


Tombs  of  the  Kmg^.      THEBES  (W.  BANK).      f?0.  Roule.   295 

Side  Room  XI.  Here  is  represented  the  gate  of  the  underworld 
and  the  sun's  journey  through  the  3rd  region  (from  the  'Book  of  the 
Gates',  p.  284).  —  Side  Room  XII.  The  interesting  texts  in  this 
room  contain  a  very  ancient  myth  of  a  rebellion  of  mankind  against 
the  sun-god,  their  punishment,  and  the  final  rescue  of  the  survivors. 
The  scene  on  the  rear  wall  is  an  illustration  from  this  myth :  the 
heavenly  cow,  supported  by  the  god  Show  and  other  spirits,  with 
two  boats  of  the  sun  floating  on  its  body. 

Side  Room  XIII  (the  sacrificial  chamber)  contains  two  pillars, 
one  of  which  has  fallen.  On  the  other  appears  the  king  before  Ptah 
and  Osiris.  Round  the  three  main  walls  runs  a  bench,  decorated  with 
a  concave  cornice ;  the  small  pillars  which  originally  supported  it 
have  been  destroyed.  The  representations  upon  it  are  almost  entirely 
obliterated.  On  the  Entrance  Wall  (to  the  left)  and  the  Left  Wall 
appears  the  sun's  journey  during  the  7th  hour  of  night  (from  the 
'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'). 

Middle  Bow.  The  sun-god  once  more  is  shown  in  his  boat,  on  the 
pi-ow  of  which  stands  Isis,  to  drive  away  evil  spirits  with  her  spells.  In 
front  of  the  boat  a  large  serpent  has  been  overcome  by  the  goddess  Selket 
and  a  god.  Farther  on  are  four  goddesses  with  swords,  and  the  graves, 
adorned  with  haman  heads,  of  the  gods  Atum,  Khepre,  Re,  and  Osiris. 
Top  Row.  Spirits  and  daemons ;  human  -  headed  serpent ;  a  god  ('Flesh 
of  Osiris")  seated  upon  a  throne  beneath  a  serpent;  three  foes  of  Osiris, 
beheaded  by  a  lion-headed  god;  a  god  holding  a  cord  binding  three  foes 
lying  on  the  ground;  three  human -headed  birds  wearing  crowns,  etc. 
Bottom  Row.  Horus,  before  whom  are  the  twelve  star -gods  who  con- 
duct the  sun  at  night;  twelve  star- goddesses  approaching  the  grave  of 
Osiris,  upon  which  a  crocodile  rests.  The  god's  head  projects  from  the 
grave-mound. 

On  the  Rear  Wall  is  the  sun's  journey  during  the  8th  hour  of 
night  (from  the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'). 

Middle  Row.  The  boat  of  the  sun  towed  by  eight  men,  preceded  by 
nine  followers  of  Re,  who  are  ropresented  by  the  hieroglyph  for  'follow", 
with  a  head  attached  to  it  in  front.  Four  rams  (forms  of  the  god  Tenen) 
head  the  procession.  Top  and  Bottom  Rows.  Dwellings  of  deceased  gods 
and  spirits,  the  doors  of  which  open  as  the  sun-god  approaches,  showing 
the  occupants  restored  to  life.  In  each  house  in  the  top  row  are  three 
gods  (first  the  nine  gods  of  Heliopolis),  in  the  bottom  row  snakes  and 
other  spirits. 

On  the  Entrance  Wall  (to  the  right)  and  Right  M''all  is  the  sun's 
journey  during  the  6th  hour  of  night  (from  the  'Book  of  him  who  is 
in  the  Underworld'). 

Middle  Row.  The  boat  of  the  sun  is  here  preceded  by  Thout  with  the 
head  of  a  cynocephalus  (his  sacred  animal),  holding  in  his  hand  an  ibis 
(also  sacred  to  him),  and  by  a  goddess  carrying  the  pupils  of  the  eyes  of 
Horns.  The  remainder  of  the  row  is  taken  up  by  a  house,  in  which  stand 
sixteen  spirits  together  with  the  recumbent  figure  of  the  god  Khepre,  sur- 
rounded by  a  serpent  with  five  heads.  Four  of  the  sixteen  spirits  represent 
the  kings  of  Upper  Egypt,  four  the  kings  of  Lower  Egypt,  while  the  rest 
are  in  the  guise  of  mummies.  In  the  Top  and  Bottom  Roict  are  other  spirits. 
In  the  latter  is  a  serpent,  with  the  heads  of  the  four  genii  of  the  dead  upon 
its  back,  also  nine  fiery  serpents  with  swords,  all  intended  to  annihilate 
the  foes  of  the  sun-god. 

The  second  side-chamber  on  the  right  is  unnumbered  and  has  no 
decorations.  —  Room  XIV  has  no  decorations  and  is  inaccessible. 
Bagdkker's  Egypt.  7tb  Edit.  19 


296   Route  20.        THEBES  (W.  BANK).      4.  Btbun  el~MubU: 


No.  18.    Tomb  of  Ramses  XI.,  Kheper-ma-re. 
No.  19.    Tomb  of  Mcntu-her-khopshef,  a  prince  of  the  close  of  the 
20th  Dynasty.    The  inner  part  is  filled  with  rubhish. 

No.  20.  Tomb  of  Queen  Hatshepsut  (p.  299),  consisting  of  a 
series  of  corridors,  700  ft.  long  and  descending  to  a  depth  of  318  ft., 
has  neither  inscriptions  nor  reliefs.  In  the  tomb-chamber  were  found 
the  sarcophagi  of  Queen  Hatshepsut  and  her  father  Thutmosis  I., 
which  are  now  in  the  Museum  of  Cairo  (p.  86). 
No.  21  has  no  inscriptions. 

Nos.  22-25  lie  in  the  West  Valley  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings 
(p.  298). 

Nos.  26-33  are  insignificant. 

No.  34.  Tomb  of  Thutmosis  III.  This  tomb  is  situated  in 
an  abrupt  and  narrow  rocky  ravine,  about  275  yds.  to  the  S.  of 
the  Tomb  of  Kamses  HI.  The  entrance  is  reached  by  a  steep  flight 
of  steps. 

A  sloping  corridor  descends  to  a  staircase  (PI.  i),  with  broad 
niches  to  the  right  and  left,  beyond  which  another  corridor  leads  to  a 
rectangular  shaft  (PI.  2),  16-20  ft.  deep,  probably  intended  as  a  pro- 
tection against  grave-robbers  but  now  crossed  by  a  foot-bridge.  The 
ceiling  is  adorned  with  white  stars  on  a  blue  ground. 

Farther  on  we  enter  a  Room  (PI.  3)  borne  by  two  unadorned 
pillars.    The  ceiling  is  decorated  with  stars  and  the  walls  bear  the 

names  of  741  different 
gods  and  daemons.  —  In 
the  left  corner  of  the  rear 
wall  is  a  staircase  lead- 
ing to  the  Tomb  Chamber 
(PI.  4),  which  has  the  oval 
form  of  a  royal  cartouche. 
Two  square  pillars  bear 
the  ceiling,  with  its  yellow 
stars  on  a  blue  gronnd. 
The  walls  are  covered 
with  excellently  preserved 
scenes  and  citations  from 
the  'Book  of  him  who  is  in  the  Underworld'.  The  representations  on 
the  pillars  are  of  special  interest.  On  one  face  of  the  first  pillar 
stands  a  long  religious  inscription;  on  the  second  face  are  Thut- 
mosis III,  and  the  Queen-Mother  Eset  in  a  boat  (at  the  top),  the 
king  suckled  by  his  mother  Eset  in  the  form  of  a  tree  (below),  and 
the  king  followed  by  his  wives  Merit-re,  Sat-yoh,  and  Nebt-khrow, 
and  the  Princess  Nefret-erew  ;  on  the  third  face  are  daemons.  The 
second  pillar  has  daemons  and  another  long  inscription.  The  Saeco- 
PHAGUS  is  of  red  sandstone,  and  its  scenes  and  inscriptions  are 
in  red  paint;  it  was  empty  when  the  tomb  was  opened,  and  the 
mummy  of  the  king  was  found  at  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  305).    The  ob- 


Tomh^ofthe  Kln<p.      THEBES  (W.  BANK).     W.  Route.    297 


jects  found  in  the  four  small  adjoining  rooms  (PI.  5-8)  are  now  in 
the  Museum  of  Cairo  (p.  95). 

'*No.  35.  Tomb  of  Amenopliis  II.  (flighted).  This  tomb  lies 
about  200  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  Tomb  of  Ramses  III,  Part  of  its 
contents  has  been  left  on  the  spot  (comp.  p.  94).  From  the  entrance 
steep  flights  of  steps  and  sloping  corridors  descend  to  a  shaft  (now 
bridged;  PI.  1),  in  the  depth  of  which  is  the  opening  to  a  small 
chamber  (PI.  2),  and  on  to  a  Room  (PI.  3)  the  walls  and  two  pillars 
of  which  are  quite  unadorned.  From  the  left  rear  corner  of  this 
apartment  a  staircase  descends  to  a  sloping  corridor  and  to  a  Room 
(PI.  4)  borne  by  six.  pillars.  At  the  back  of  this  is  a  kind  of 
crypt.  On  the  pillars 
Amenophis  II.  is  re- 
presented before  the 
gods  of  the  dead.  The 
blue  ceiling  is  dotted 
with  yellow  stars.  The 
walls,  painted  yellow 
(probably  in  imitation 
of  a  papyrus),  bear 
citations  and  scenes 
from  the  'Book  of  him 
who  is  in  tha  Under- 
world'. In  the  crypt 
stands  the  sandstone 
*  Sarcophagus    of    the 

king  (effectively  shown  by  electric  light),  containing  a  mummy- 
shaped  coffin  with  the  body  of  Amenophis  II.,  wrapped  in  its 
shroud  and  still  adorned  with  garlands.  On  each  side  of  the  main 
room  are  two  small  chambers  (PI.  5-8).  In  the  first  to  the  right 
(PI.  6)  He  three  mummies.  The  second  to  the  right  (PI.  6;  inac- 
cessible) contained  nine  royal  mummies,  placed  here  to  conceal 
them  from  grave -robbers.  Among  them  were  the  mummies  of 
Thutmosis  VI.,  Amenophis  III.  (18th  Dyn.),  Siptah,  and  ,Sethos  II. 
(19th  Dyn.). 

No.  36.    Tomb  of  Me'i-her-peri,  a  fan-bearer  (comp.  p.  95), 
without  inscriptions. 

No.  37  also  has  no  inscriptions. 

No.  38.  Tomb  of  Thutmosis  I.  This  is  the  earliest  royal  tomb 
in  the  Valley  of  the  Kings;  it  lies  in  the  abrupt  slope  at  the 
end  of  the  valley,  between  Tombs  14 
and  15. 

A  steep  flight  of  steps  descends  to  a 
Siiuare  room  (PI.  1),  wheuce  another  (light 
leads  to  the  roughly  hewn  Tomb  Chamber 
(PI.  2),  the  ceiling  of  which  was  supported 
t>y  a  column  (now  broken).  The  walls 
were  covered  with  painted  stucco,  but  this 
has    disappeared,   probably  from   the  fact 


t'--<fc_ji  -M,^o.-. 


19* 


2,98  Route  20.       THEBES  (W.  BANK).     4.  Bibdn  el-Mulftk. 

that  the  grave  was  sometimes  under  water.  The  handsome  red  sandstone 
sarcophagus  is  adorned  with  representations  of  Isis  (foot),  Nephthys  (head), 
the  gods  of  the  dead  (sides),  and  Nut,  the  goddess  of  Heaven  (inside).  — 
To  the  left  is  another  small  room  (PI.  3). 

No.  39.   Tomb  of  Amenophis  7. ,  unimportant. 

Nos.  40  <^'  41  are  without  inscriptions. 

No.  42,  which  may  be  the  Tomb  of  Thutmosls  II.,  is  unimportant. 

No.  43.  Tomb  of  TImtmosis  IV.  This  tomb  is  unfinished;  two 
of  its  chambers  contain  representations  of  the  king  in  the  presence 
of  different  gods  (comp.  pp.  90,  94). 

No.  44.    Tomb  of  Tent-Karu,  uninteresting. 

No.  45.    Tomb  of  Userhet,  without  interest. 

No.  46.  Tomb  of  Yue  and  Tu'e,  the  parents-in-law  of  Amen- 
ophis III.  This  tomb,  which  lies  between  Tombs  3  and  4  and  con- 
tains no  inscriptions,  was  discovered  by  Theodore  M.  Davis  in 
1905 ;  its  rich  contents  were  transferred  to  the  Museum  at  Cairo 
(see  p.  93). 

No.  47.  Tomb  of  King  Siptali  (19th  Dyn.).  This  tomb  contains 
a  few  good  scenes:  the  king  before  Re-Harakhte;  the  sun-disk 
between  two  mountains ;  Isis,  Nephthys,  and  Anubis  waiting  upon 
the  body  of  Osiris. 

No.  48.  Tomb  of  the  Vizier  Amenemopet  (18th  Dyn.),  without 
inscriptions. 

Nos,  49-54,  without  inscriptions. 

No.  55.  Tomb  of  Queen  Teye,  mother  of  Amenophis  IV.  This 
tomb,  which  is  without  inscriptions,  lies  close  to  No.  6;  Amen- 
ophis IV.  also  was  buried  here. 

No.  56,  without  inscriptions. 

No.  57.  Tomb  of  King  Haremheb  (comp.  p.  96).  Some  of  the 
scenes  on  the  walls  are  excellently  executed.  The  tomb-chamber 
still  contains  the  sarcophagus. 

Nos.  58-60  are  without  inscriptions. 


The  W,  valley  of  Bib  an  el-Muluk  (comp.  p.  285),  usually  named 
by  the  Arabs  after  Tomb  23  (see  below),  is  seldom  visited,  in  spite 
of  its  scenic  attractiveness. 

The  first  tomb  here  (No.  22)  is  that  of  Amenophis  III.,  found 
by  the  savants  of  the  French  Expedition.  We  enter  from  the  W. ; 
the  tomb  soon  bends  towards  the  N.,  but  finally  resumes  its  original 
direction. 

The  second  tomb  (No.  23),  called  by  the  Arabs  Turbet  el-Kurud 
(Tomb  of  the  Apes),  is  in  a  very  retired  spot.  It  belongs  to  King  Eye 
(p.  216). 

Tombs  No.  24  and  No.  25  are  without  inscriptions. 


TIM  PL  i  @F  S'lljR.  iL-'SA\Hj^lJ 


0     a 


Recesses  2 


Recesses 


Hall  of  Amtnon 


3    t^^i  Altar    ,Ji::.Chape\ 

Upper  Terrace  |  "^ 


6   p      "      <i 

d  Jl.Coionnadej^ 


Hall 


Granite 
Door 


Court) 

.,   ,       Chapel  oFAnubis 
xVestibule  y     ^  \ 


t^  ""hi    b""l' ''t 


Hall  -\     °'^ 


Recess 


d       c     -ir—n        .f"'"''^ —  a 

S.ColonnS.qe°i    ^j  l°t|.golonnade 


Lower  Terrace 


30  i-O  50 


5.  Deir  d-Bahri.      THEBES  (W.  BANK).  -JO.  Route.    299 

5.  From  Bib&n  el-Multik  to  Deir  el-Bahri  and  £1-Asasif. 

To  return  from  Biban  el-Muluk  to  the  plain  we  should  take  the  moun- 
tain-path via  Deir  el-Bahri.  It  is  possible  to  ride  to  the  top  of  the  hill, 
but  walking  all  the  way  is  preferable.  —  Another  very  pleasant  route  leads 
from  Biban  el-3Iuluk  up  the  steep  hill  and  then,  above  Sheikh  'Abd  el- 
Kurna,  descends  to  Deir  el-3Iedineh  (p.  316). —  The  morning  or  late  after- 
noon is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri,  for  during  the 
hotter  hours  of  the  day  the  oppressive  rays  of  the  sun 'are  reflected  from 
he  rocks  here  with  peculiar  intensity. 

The  path  begins  at  Tomb  16,  ascends  the  hill  separating  Biban 
el-Muluk  from  Deir  el-Bahri  and  El-Asasif,  and  descends  in  zigzags. 
It  is  fatiguing  but  safe,  and  is  easily  accomplished  in  ^/^  hr.  The 
*View  is  most  remarkable:  first  we  look  into  the  desolate  valley  of 
the  Tombs  of  the  Kings;  then,  from  the  summit  and  as  we  descend, 
I  we  see  the  peculiarly  shaped  ravine  of  Deir  el-Bahri,  the  steep 
]  projecting  mountain-side  with  its  tombs  and  buildings  old  and  new, 
t  and  the  rich  green  of  the  fertile  plain  below,  spread  out  on  both 
sides  of  the  Nile,  with  its  groups  of  palms  and  gigantic  temples, 
as  far  as  Karnak  and  Luxor  on  the  E.  bank.  The  situation  of  the 
temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  is  remarkably  fine;  on  the  W.  and  N.  it  is 
framed  by  precipitous  rocks  of  a  light-brown  and  golden  colour, 
against  which  the  dazzling  white  walls  of  the  temple  stand  out  in 
magnificent  relief.  —  Below  the  temple  lies  a  rest-house  open  only 
to  Cook's  tourists  and  to  patrons  of  the  hotels  of  the  Upper  Egypt 
Hotel  Company  (p.  251). 

The  great  Temple  of  Deir  el-Bahri  was  built  and  adorned  Avith 
reliefs  and  Inscriptions  by  Queen  Hatshepsut,  the  sister,  wife,  and 
co-regent  of  Thutmosis  III.  Like  the  sanctuary  of  the  11th  Dynasty 
(p.  304)  lying  to  the  S.  of  it,  it  is  constructed  in  terraces.  The  con- 
struction of  the  temple  shared  the  chequered  fortunes  of  its  found- 
ress (p.  cii).  When  Hatshepsut  was  expelled  from  the  throne  by 
her  brother  and  husband,  after  a  brief  reign,  the  building  operations 
came  to  a  halt,  and  Thutmosis  caused  the  names  and  figure  of  his 
sister  to  be  obliterated  in  all  the  finished  sculptures  and  inscriptions 
at  Deir  el-Bahri  as  well  as  elsewhere  throughout  the  country. 
Thutmosis  II.,  who  succeeded  his  brother,  continued  the  work  of 
destruction  by  inserting  his  own  name  in  place  of  that  of  Hatshepsut. 
When  Thutmosis  II.  died,  however,  Hatshepsut  regained  the  throne 
and  the  building  was  resumed.  Operations  were  not  carried  on 
with  any  remarkable  activity,  for  when  the  queen's  long  reign  came 
to  an  end  the  temple  was  still  unfinished.  Thutmosis  III.,  once 
more  on  the  throne,  so  far  from  supplying  what  was  still  wanting, 
resumed  his  former  tactics,  destroying  all  allusions  to  his  sister 
and  sometimes  inserting  his  own  name  and  figure  in  place  of  hers. 
Amenophis  IV.  (p.  211)  carefully  destroyed  all  reference  to  Amon, 
and  the  inscriptions  and  reliefs  were  left  thus  mutilated  until  the 
reign  of  Ramses  II.,  who  restored  them,  though  with  inferior  work- 
manship. For  centuries  afterwards  the  temple  remained  unaltered; 
but  under  Euergetes  II.  a  few  slight  restorations  were  undertaken 


300   Route  20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).  6.  Temple  of 

and  some  unimportant  additions  were  made,  without,  however, 
affecting  the  original  plan.  On  the  introduction  of  Christianity  a 
community  of  monks  established  themselves  in  the  temple  and 
founded  a  convent,  known  to  the  Arabs  as  Deir  el-Bahri,  or  the 
'Northern  Convent'.  The  chambers  of  the  temple  were  converted  into 
chapels  and  the  'heathen'  representations  ou  the  walls  were  barbar- 
ously defaced.  —  Mariette  made  a  few  excavations  here,  but  finally 
in  1894-96  the  entire  temple  was  exhumed  at  the  cost  of  the  Egypt 
Exploration  Fund  under  the  skilful  directions  of  M.  Eduard  Naville. 
It  should  be  noted  that  Hatshepsnt  in  her  capacity  as  ruler  of  Egypt 
is  uniformly  represented  with  the  traditional  attributes  of  kingship,  viz. 
the  short  apron  and  the  beard,  though  these,  of  course,  are  properly 
appropriate  to  men  only. 

The  temple  was  dedicated  to  Anion;  but  the  goddess  Hathor 
and  Anubis,  god  of  the  dead,  also  had  chapels  here,  and  several 
chambers  were  devoted  to  the  worship  of  the  queen,  who  was  buried 
at  Biban  el-Muluk  (p.  296),  and  to  that  of  her  parents.  The  build- 
ing occupies  three  terraces,  rising  one  above  the  other  from  the 
level  ground;  these  are  connected  with  each  other  by  inclined  planes, 
which  divide  the  whole  into  a  N.  half,  to  the  right,  and  a  S.  half, 
to  the  left.  At  the  W.  side  of  each  terrace  is  a  raised  colonnade.  The 
stages  were  cut  out  of  the  E.  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  support  was 
given  to  the  outer  and  inner  walls  by  means  of  blocks  of  the  finest 
sandstone.  The  chambers  devoted  to  religious  rites  were  likewise 
cut  out  of  the  rock. 

An  Avenue  of  Sphinxes  led  from  the  plain  to  the  temple,  ending 
at  the  gateway  (now  almost  totally  destroyed)  forming  the  entrance 
to  the  temple-precincts.  In  front  of  the  gate,  in  square  enclosures 
of  masonry,  stood  two  persea  trees  (Mimusops  Schimperi),  the  stumps 
of  which  are  still  extant. 

We  first  enter  the  lower  Terrace.  This  is  in  a  very  dilapidated 
condition,  though  it  has  lately  been  restored.  Each  Colonnade  con- 
sisted of  22  columns  arranged  in  a  double  row.  The  columns  in 
the  back  row  were  sixteen -sided,  while  the  others  were  four- 
sided  in  front  and  seven -sided  behind.  Little  now  remains  of 
the  reliefs  and  inscriptions  that  once  adorned  the  walls. 

On  the  rear  wall  of  the  N.  Colonnade.,  at  PI.  a,  are  traces  of  the  re- 
presentation of  a  pond,  on  which  water-fowl  are  being  caught  with  nets. 
—  On  the  rear  wall  of  the  <S.  Colonnade  (from  right  to  left):  PI.  b.  The 
queen  (figure  chiselled  out)  sacrificing  to  the  ithyphallic  Amon;  PI.  <•. 
Erection  and  dedication  of  the  temple-obelisks;  ships  and  soldiers  hastening 
to  a  festival;  PI.  d.  Ships  bringing  two  obelisks  from  the  quarries  of 
Assuan  to  Thebes. 

Below  the  S.  colonnade  are  holes  hewn  in  the  rock,  which  were 
formerly  filled  with  Nile  mud  and  used  for  plants.  Remains  of  palms, 
vines,  and  the  like  are  still  extant. 

We  now  ascend  the  approach  to  the  Central  Terrace,  ou  the  S. 
side  of  which  we  can  best  observe  the  careful  workmanship  of  the 
retaining  walls,  intended  to  obviate  any  movement  of  the  soil.  They 
consist   of  finely    polished  blocks  of  limestone,   with  simple  but 


Dcir  el-r.ahri.  TUEBES  (W.  BANK).  W.  Route.   301 

effective  ornamentation.  Broad  pilasters,  only  8  inches  in  depth 
and  placed  at  wide  intervals,  project  from  the  wall.  Above  each 
are  a  gigantic  falcon  and  serpent. 

The  W.  side  of  the  terrace  Is  bounded  by  two  raised  colonnades, 
that  to  the  right  named  the  Birth  Colonnade,  that  to  the  left  the 
Hunt  Colonnade. 

The  Birth  Colonnade  contains  11  pairs  of  square  pillars  sup- 
porting the  roof.  On  all  four  sides  of  the  pillars  is  the  same  scene : 
Amon  laying  his  hand  in  blessing  upon  the  shoulder  of  Hatshep- 
sut  (figure  defaced  throughout)  or  Thutmosis  III.  The  inscriptions 
and  representations  on  the  walls  of  the  colonnade  refer  to  the  pro- 
creation and  birth  of  the  queen  (PI.  e).  Among  these  are  two  fine 
figures  of  the  queen-mother  Ahmes,  once  in  presence  of  the  ram- 
headed  Khnum  and  the  frog-headed  Heket,  and  once  in  presence  of 
the  ibis-headed  Thout.  —  Two  steps  at  the  N.  end  of  this  colonnade 
descend  to  a  Vestiuulb  with  12  sixteen-sided  columns.  On  the 
walls  are  fine  reliefs. 

In  the  )S.  Wall  is  a  small  Recess  with  represeatations  of  the  queen  (ef- 
faced) before  various  deities;  above  appears  the  queen  (again  scratched 
out)  before  Osiris.  To  the  left  of  the  recess  is  Anubis,  behind  whom 
."itood  the  queea;  to  the  right  are  Xekhbeyet  and  Harakhte,  between 
whom  were  the  names  of  the  queen.  —  In  the  N.  }Vall  is  a  similar  Recess. 
Above  it  is  Thutmosis  III.  making  a  libation  of  wine  to  the  falcon-headed 
Soker,  god  of  the  dead;  to  the  right,  Anubis  and  the  queen  (scratched 
out);  to  the  left,  the  queen  (scratched  out)  standing  in  a  chapel  before  the 
symbol  nf  Eme-wet.  —  On  the  IK.  (rear)  Wall,  the  queen  (scratched  out) 
sacrificing  to  Amon  (to  the  left)  and  to  Anubis  (.to  the  right),  with  the 
sacrificial  gifts  heaped  up  before  each  god. 

Three  steps  at  the  back  of  the  vestibule  lead  to  a  Chapel  of  Anubis, 
consisting  of  three  chambers  with  vaulted  ceilings.  The  colouring  of 
the  bas-reliefs  is  admirably  preserved,  though  the  figure  of  the  queen  is 
invariably  scratched  out.  They  represent  Hatshepsut  before  various  deities, 
especially  Anubis.  Thutmosis  III.  occurs  once  on  the  E.  wall  of  the  second 
chamber,  pouring  water  before  Soker. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  terrace  is  an  unfinished  Colonnadb,  the 
roof  of  which  is  supported  by  15  sixteen-sided  columns.  Behind 
it  are  four  chambers  (now  walled  up). 

We  now  turn  to  the  Colonnadb  of  Punt,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
W.  terrace,  exactly  corresponding  with  the  Birth  Colonnade.  The 
*Scenes  on  the  walls,  some  of  which  are  unfortunately  much  dam- 
aged, commemorate  a  trading  expedition  to  Punt  (p.  223),  under- 
taken during  the  queen's  reign.  On  the  <S.  Walt  we  see  a  village 
in  Punt  (PI.  /■).  The  beehive  huts  are  built  over  the  water  amongst 
palms  and  incense-trees ;  ladders  lead  up  to  the  entrances.  In  the 
lower  row,  to  the  right,  is  the  reception  of  the  Egyptian  envoy 
and  his  suite  by  the  Prince  of  Punt;  above,  the  envoy  in  front  of 
his  tent,  looking  at  the  gifts  that  have  been  heaped  upon  him.  — 
On  the  W.  Wall  we  see,  to  the  left  (PI.  9),  the  arrival  of  the 
Egyptian  fleet  at  Punt,  where  it  is  laden  with  precious  merchan- 
dize; to  the  right  is  the  return  of  the  fleet.  Above  are  the  Inhabitants 
of  Punt  and  the  Egyptians  with  their  gifts ;  while  prostrate  grandees 


302   Route  -20.  TUEBES  (W.  BANK).  5.  Temple  of 

do  homage  to  the  queen.  Farther  on  (PI.  h)  the  queen  (effaced), 
followed  by  her  guardian-spirit,  dedicates  to  Amon  the  spoils  of 
the  expedition ;  the  cattle  feeding  beneath  the  trees  are  especially 
worthy  of  notice.  At  PI.  i  gold  and  other  precious  metals  are  being 
weighed  in  presence  of  the  goddess  Seshet,  who  records  the  results ; 
Horus  presides  at  the  scales,  and  behind  him  is  the  Nubian  god 
Tetun.  Below  we  see  the  incense  being  measured,  while  Thout 
notes  down  the  results;  close  by  are  seven  incense-trees  in  tubs, 
imported  from  Punt.  At  PI.  k  Thutmosis  III.  offers  incense  to  the 
boat  of  Amon,  which  is  borne  by  priests.  At  PI.  I  is  Hatshepsut 
be  ore  Amon  (a  long  inscription  between  them  has  been  erased). 
—  On  the  N.  Wall,  at  PI.  m,  the  queen  (chiselled  out)  is  seated 
beneath  a  canopy,  with  her  guardian-spirit  behind  her.  In  front 
are  her  grandees,  to  whom  she  is  speaking,  and  a  long  inscription. 

At  the  left  (S.)  end  of  the  Punt  Colonnade  is  a  Sheine  of 
Hathoe,  goddess  of  the  necropolis  at  Thebes  (p.  cl),  which  was 
originally  reached  also  from  below  by  a  flight  of  steps.  The  inner- 
most chambers  are  preceded  by  two  covered  Colonnades  (now  in 
ruins).  The  first  of  these  had  sixteen-sided  columns  and  square 
pillars  with  Hathor-capitals ;  the  second ,  which  lies  at  a  slightly 
higher  level,  had  round  Hathor  columns  (three  of  them  in  partial 
preservation)  and  also  sixteen-sided  columns  (six  partly  remaining). 

There  are  still  a  few  Wall  Decorations  in  the  second  colonnade.  On  the 
N.  Wall  (PI.  n):  Thutmosis  III.  with  an  oar,  in  presence  of  a  goddess; 
to  the  right  is  a  procession,  consisting  of  three  rows  with  two  ships  in 
each  and  (below)  soldiers  with  standards  and  axes  (to  the  right  two 
soldiers  dancing  to  castanets).  —  On  the  S.  Wall  (PI.  o;  much  dilapidated): 
Sacrificial  scene,  and  a  boat  containing  a  Hathor-cow,  with  Queen  Hat- 
shepsut drinking  from  the  udder.  —  On  the  W.  Wall  (to  the  right) : 
Thutmosis  II.  (replacing  Hatshepsut),  with  an  oar  and  a  builder's  square, 
before  Hathor  (whose  figure  was  defaced  by  Amenophis  IV.);  the  king, 
whose  hand  is  licked  by  the  Hathor-cow.    These  are  repeated  to  the  left. 

We  ascend  two  steps  to  the  Shrine  proper,  which  comprised  three 
rock-hewn  chambers  (PI.  A,  B,  C),  each  one  step  higher  than  its 
predecessor  and  containing  several  recesses.  The  ceiling  of  Boom  .4, 
which  is  decorated  with  stars  on  a  blue  ground,  is  supported  by  two 
sixteen-sided  columns.  The  reliefs,  which  those  who  have  leisure  may 
examine,  show  Hatshepsut  (everywhere  defaced)  or  Thutmosis  III. 
before  various  deities.  —  Room  B  contains  *Wall  Reliefs  of  unusual 
beauty.  They  represent  Hatshepsut  (chiselled  out)  presenting  offer- 
ings of  all  kinds  to  the  Hathor-cow,  which  stands  in  a  boat  beneath 
a  canopy.  The  traces  of  a  second  and  smaller  figure  of  the  queen, 
represented  as  imbibing  milk  from  the  udder  of  the  cow,  are  still 
visible.  The  little  nude  boy,  holding  a  sistrum,  in  front  of  the  queen, 
is  Ehi,  son  of  Hathor.  —  Room  C  has  a  roof  of  parabolic  vaulting. 
On  each  of  the  side-walls  is  an  admirable  relief  of  Hatshepsut  drink- 
ing from  the  udder  of  the  Hathor-cow,  before  which  stands  Amon 
(on  a  smaller  scale).  Rear  Wall:  Hatshepsut  between  Hathor  and 
Amon,  who  holds  the  hieroglyph  for  'life'  to  her  nose.    Above  the 


Deir  d-Bahri.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).         20.  Rouie.   303 

entrances  to  the  recesses  (PI.  t,  u)  Hatshepsut  and  Thutmosis  lH 
offer  milk  and  wine  to  Hatbor. 

We  return  hence  to  the  Central  Terrace  and  ascend  the  inclined 
approach  which  brings  us  first  to  a  much  ruined  Hall,  the  roof  of 
which  was  borne  by  pillars  and  sixteen-sided  columns.  A  granite 
doorway  here  gives  access  to  the  — 

Upper  Terrace.  The  central  part  of  the  terrace  was  occupied  by 
a  large  Hypostyle  Hall,  now  in  a  state  of  complete  ruin.  Its  walls 
were  adorned  with  reliefs  of  a  festal  procession,  which  have  suffered 
severely  at  the  hands  of  the  Coptic  monks.  —  Turning  sharp  to  the 
right  (N.),  we  reach  a  door  (PI.  i)  admitting  to  a  Vestibule,  which 
had  three  sixteen -sided  columns.  Opposite  the  door  is  a  small 
Recess  (PI.  y ),  with  representations  of  Queen  Hatshepsut,  in  good 
preservation. 

Kear  Wall  of  the  reces:  Hatshepsut  (erased)  before  Amon.  Side 
Walls:  Hatshepsut  seated  at  table,  with  a  priest  clad  like  the  god  Hor- 
En-metf  in  front  of  her.  The  figure  of  the  queen  is  uninjured,  contrary  to 
the  usual  practice;  but  the  priest's  figure  was  defaced  by  Amenophis  IV. 

To  the  left  of  the  vestibule  we  enter  an  open  Court,  in  which  is 
an  *  Altar,  approached  by  ten  steps  and  dedicated  by  Hatshepsut  to 
the  sun-godKe-Harakhte.  This  is  one  of  the  very  few  altars  that  have 
come  down  to  us  from  Egyptian  antiquity  on  their  original  sites. 
In  the  W.  wall  of  this  court  is  a  small  recess  with  sacrificial  scenes 
on  the  walls  (the  figure  of  Hatshepsut  erased).  —  A  door  in  the  N. 
wall  of  this  court  admits  to  a  Chapel,  comprising  two  chambers. 
With  a  few  unimportant  exceptions  the  reliefs  on  the  walls  have 
been  chiselled  away  by  Thutmosis  III.  and  Amenophis  IV. 

On  the  side-walls  of  the  1ft  Chamber  (PI.  V)  Hatshepsut  oilers  sacri- 
fices to  various  deities,  mainly  deities  of  the  dead,  such  as  Anubis,  Soker, 
Osiris,  and  Eme-wet,  and  also  to  Amon.  Above  a  bench  against  the 
end  wall  is  a  represent:i,tion  of  Hatshepsut  and  Thutmosis  I.  before  the 
symbol  of  Eme-wet.  2nd  C/iamher.  On  the  right  wall:  Thutmosis  I.  (ori- 
ginally Hatshepsut)  and  his  mother  Seniseneb,  sacrificing  to  Anubis.  On 
the  left  wall;  Hatshepsut  and  her  mother  Ahmes  sacrificing  to  Amon. 
t)n  the  end-wall :  Hatshepsut  and  Anubis.  On  the  ceiling  are  represent- 
ations of  the  stars. 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  upper  terrace  are  several  chambers  now  in 
ruins  and  a  well-preserved  Saceificial  IL\ll,  with  a  vaulted  roof, 
which  was  used  for  the  cult  of  the  manes  of  Hatshepsut  and  is 
adorned  with  reliefs. 

To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance:  slaughter  and  cutting  up  of  the 
sacrificial  beasts.  On  the  side-walls  are  shown  three  rows  of  priests  and 
officials  bringing  sacrificial  gifts  to  Hatshepsut,  and  above  are  sacrificial 
objects  of  various  kinds.  Hatshepsut  herself  (effaced)  is  seated  with  a  list 
of  the  offerings  before  her,  while  priests  offer  incense  or  perform  other 
rites.  On  the  end  wall  is  represented  the  door  that  led  into  the  realm 
of  the  dead. 

In  the  W.  wall  of  the  large  hall  in  the  middle  of  the  terrace  is 
a  series  of  large  and  small  Recesses,  containing  representations 
of  Thutmosis  III.  and  Hatshepsut  in  presence  of  the  gods.  The 
larger  recesses  were  occupied  by  Osiris-statues  of  the  queen.  In  the 


304   Route  'JO.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).        5.  Delr  el-Bahri. 

middle  is  the  entrance  to  the  sanctuary.  —  In  the  left  corner  opens 
the  small  Boom  H,  in  the  right  corner  the  so-called  Hall  of  Amon^ 
both  of  which  may  be  omitted  hy  hurried  visitors. 

Room  H.  The  ceiling  is  well  preserved.  Oa  the  right  wall  appears 
Amon-Ke  in  front  of  a  table  of  offerings,  which  replaces  the  effaced  figure 
of  Hatshepsut.  Behind  the  table  is  the  queen's  guardian-spirit.  On  the 
rear  wall  are  Thutmosis  III.  and  Thutmosis  I.  (substituted  for  the  queen) 
making  an  off'ering  of  clothes  to  Amon.  On  the  left  wall  Thutmosis  II. 
{substituted  for  the  queen),  with  his  guardian-spirit,  ofl'ers  sacred  oil  to 
the  ithyphallic  Amon. 

Hall  op  Amon.  Part  of  the  ceiling,  decorated  with  stars  on  a  blue 
ground,  still  remains.  On  the  left  side-wall  we  observe  Hatshepsut  pacing 
out  the  temple -precincts,  before  Amon,  before  the  ithyphallic  Amon- 
Min,  and  before  the  enthroned  Amon.  On  the  right  wall  is  Thutmosis  III. 
before  these  same  gods.  On  the  end-wall  is  Thutmosis  U.  (originally  Hat- 
shepsut) before  Amon.  The  figures  of  the  gods  here  were  defaced  by 
Amenophis  IV.  and  were  not  replaced  at  the  restoration  under  Ramses  II. 

A  granite  Portal,  reached  by  a  porch  dating  from  the  18th  Dyn., 
with  balustrades,  forms  the  entrance  to  the  Sanctuary.  The  three 
chambers  (PI.  E,  F,  G)  are  unfortunately  much  damaged.  The  first 
two  have  vaulted  ceilings  and  are  adjoined  by  recesses.  The  scenes 
in  the  1st  Chamber  (PI.  E)  show  Hatshepsut  (sometimes  Thut- 
mosis III.)  sacrificing  to  various  deities,  among  whom  figures  the 
deceased  Thutmosis  II.  The  3rd  Boom  was  added  under  Euergetesll. 
and  was  dedicated  to  the  saints  Imhotep  and  Amenhotep,  who  were 
revered  in  the  Ptolemaic  period.  The  reliefs  and  inscriptions  of  this 
late  period  compare  very  unfavourably  with  the  masterly  sculptures 
of  Hatshepsut. 

On  the  upper  part  of  the  right  wall  of  the  ist  Chamber  is  a  noteworthy 
scene:  Hatshepsut,  Thutmosis  III.,  and  the  princess  Ra-nofru  sacrifice  to 
the  boat  of  Amon,  behind  which  stood  Thutmosis  I.  with  his  consort 
Ahmes,  and  their  little  daughter  Bit-nofru.  A  similar  scene  was  repre- 
sented above  the  recess  (PI.  z)  on  the  left  wall;  the  kneeling  Thutmosis  III. 
and  Princess  Ra-nofru  may  still  be  distinguished. 

Immediately  to  the  S.,  adjoining  the  temple  of  Hatshepsut,  lies 
a  smaller  temple  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the  Middle  Empire. 
This  is  the  Mortuary  Temple  of  Kings  Mentuhotep  III.  and  IV. 
(Neb-hepet-re  and  Neb-khru-re),  begun  by  Mentuhotep  UI.,  who 
erected  over  his  subterranean  tomb  (see  p.  305)  a  terrace  with  col- 
onnades and  a  pyramid,  as  well  as  tombs  and  chapels  for  the  women 
of  his  harem.  The  structure  was  extended  and  completed  by  his 
successor  Mentuhotep  IV.,  who  also  chose  to  have  his  tomb  here. 
This  is  the  earliest  Theban  temple  known  to  us  and  it  is  of  great 
interest  from  the  simplicity  of  its  architecture.  It  was  excavated  by 
the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund  in  1905-7.  —  Like  the  large  temple 
it  is  constructed  in  terraces.  From  the  Court,  bounded  on  the  W. 
side  by  two  Colonnades  with  rectangular  pillars  (with  the  cartouche 
of  Neb-khru-re),  an  inclined  plane  leads  to  a  higher  Terrace,  on 
which  stood  the  actual  mortuary  temple  with  the  pyramid.  Beyond 
a  vestibule  which  has  almost  completely  disappeared,  but  which 
formerly  extended  to  the  N.  and  S.,  lies  the  Main  Chamber,  a  large 
hall  with  140  octagonal  pillars.    In  the  middle  of  the  hall  rose  a 


5.  Deir  el-Bjhri.       THEBES  (W.  BANK).  2U.  Route.   305 

Pyramid,  resting  upon  a  substructure  cased  with  fine  limestone  slabs. 
In  the  W.  wall  of  the  hall  were  inserted  the  Sepulchral  Chapels  of 
the  Favourites  of  the  Royal  Harem.  On  the  W.  we  next  reach  a  Court 
surrounded  by  colonnades.  In  the  pavement  of  tliis  court  was  the 
entrance  to  a  sloping  passage  164  yds.  long,  leadiag  to  the  sub- 
terranean tomb-chamber  of  Mentuhotep  IV.  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
court  are  openings  admitting  to  the  shaft-tombs  of  the  favourites. 
A  large  Pillared  Hall  (only  the  bases  of  its  80  octagonal  pillars 
remain)  and  a  Sanctuary  (hewn  in  the  rock)  terminated  the  temple. 
—  To  the  N.W.  of  this  building  stood  a  Sanctuary  of  Hathor  built 
byThutmosisIIl.jOf  which  no  trace  remains.  The  shrine,  constructed 
in  the  rock  and  containing  the  image  of  the  deity  as  a  cow,  is  now 
in  the  Museum  of  Cairo  (p.  85). 

Numerous  very  important  discoveries  have  been  made  in  the  Valley 
OF  Deir  el-Bahri.  Thus,  in  1881,  the  Roijal  Mummies  mentioned  at  p.  93 
were  found  in  a  shaft  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  mortuary  temple,  while 
in  1891  a  Common  Tomb  for  Theban  PriesU  was  discovered  immediately 
to  the  N.  of  the  lower  terrace  (contents  now  in  the  Museums  of  Cairo 
and  Alexandria,  pp.  90,  22).  Here  is  situated  also  the  subterranean  Tomb 
of  Mentuhotep  III.  (sec  p.  3()4).  known  to  the  Arabs  as  B&b  el-Hosdn,  which 
was  discovered  by  Mr.  Carter  in  19U0,  but  has  been  covered  in  again. 

By  proceeding  from  Deir  el-Bahri  in  the  direction  of  Kurna,  we 
soon  reach  the  small  depression  known  as  El-Asasif.  This  contains 
a  large  — 

Necropolis,  the  rock-tombs  in  which  date  mostly  from  the  be- 
ginning of  the  Saite  period  (Soth  and  26th  Dyn.).  Various  brick 
buildings  are  noticed  also.  The  large  arched  gateway  belonged  to 
a  great  mortuary  chapel  built  by  the  Theban  prince  Ment-em-het 
(26th  Dyn.).  The  tombs  usually  consist  of  an  open  court,  to  which 
a  flight  of  steps  descends  and  whence  a  door  admits  to  a  large  hall, 
beyond  which  are  the  inner  passages  and  chambers. 

Of  especial  interest  is  the  Tomb  of  Ebe  (No.  36),  an  ofticial  in  the  reign 
of  Nitocris,  daughter  of  Psaiiinietichos  I.,  which  contains  reliets  copied  from 
originals  of  the  time  of  the  Ancient  Empire.  A  flijiht  of  steps  leads  into 
the  antechamber,  where  (he  deceased  is  represented  sitting  at  the  table 
of  offerings  and  receiving  sacrificial  gifts.  In  the  room  adjoining  this  on 
the  right  are  tasteful  reliefs  of  artisans  and  dancer.  Farther  on  we  come 
to  what  was  originally  an  open  court  with  arcades  at  the  sides;  the  reliefs 
on  the  walls  represent  sacrificial  scenes,  among  which  one  of  a  hunt 
.should  be  noticed.  The  adjacent  colonnade  leads  to  several  chambers 
fartlier  on.  —  AniOBg  the  other  tombs  of  the  same  epoch  may  be  men- 
tioned the  fine  but  much  injured  tomb  oi  Prince  Harica  (No.  37;  inaccessible 
at  present),  an  official  of  t^ueen  Amenertais,  sister  of  the  Ethiopian  King 
Shabako;  the  Tomb  of  Ment-em-hit  (No.  34;  inaccessible),  a  Theban  prince 
of  the  time  of  the  Assyrian  domination  (2oth  Dyn.);  and  the  Tomb  of 
Peleamenopet  (No.  33),  a  high  official  under  the  26th  Dyn.  (comp.  p.  329). 
This  last  tomb  is  larger  than  any  of  the  kings'  tombs  at  Bihan  el-Muluk, 
being  287  yds.  in  length  and  2710  sii.  yds.  in  area.  The  carefully  executed 
inscriptions  and  reliefs,  now  unfortunately  much  injured  and  blackened, 
refer  almost  without  exception  to  the  fate  of  the  soul  after  death. 

On  the  N.  slope  of  the  hill  of  Et-Khokha  is  the  American  House 
(Arab.  Beit  Morgan),  belonging  to  the  expedition  sent  out  by  the 
Metropolitan  Museum  of  New  York. 


306   Eoute  -20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).         6'.  Rames$eum. 

6.  The  Bamesseum. 

This  temple  may  be  reached  from  the  landing-place  on  the  W.  bank 
in  3/4  !"■•  '1  from  the  Colossi  of  Memnon  in  '/i  lir. ;  and  from  Medinet  Habu 
or  Deir  el-Bahri  in  20  minutes. 

The  **Ramesseuin,  the  large  mortuary  temple  built  by  Ram- 
ses II.  on  the  W.  bank  and  dedicated  to  Amon,  is  unfortunately 
only  half  preserved.  We  may  in  all  probability  identify  it  with  the 
^Tomb  of  Osymandyas  described  by  the  Augustan  historian  Dio- 
dorus,  'Osymandyas'  being  regarded  as  a  corrupt  form  of  User-ma-rc, 
the  praenomen  of  Ramses  II. 

We  begin  our  inspection  at  the  great  Pylon,  the  E.  entrance  to 
the  temple.  This  was  originally  220  ft.  broad,  but  its  ruined  ex- 
terior now  resembles  a  quarry.  Many  representations  on  the  broad 
surface  of  its  W.  Side,  next  the  first  court,  are  in  fair  preservation 
and  easily  recognizable  with  an  opera-glass  (especially  by  afternoon- 
light).  They  refer  to  the  Syrian  campaigns  of  Ramses  II.,  notably 
to  the  war  with  the  Hittites  (comp.  p.  258). 

On  the  XoKTH  Tower,  to  the  extreme  Left,  we  observe  the  Asiatic 
fortresses  taken  by  Eamses  in  the  8th  year  of  his  reign.  Thirteen  of 
the  original  eighteen  are  still  recognizable,  each  with  an  inscription  con- 
taining its  name.  The  captives  are  being  led  away.  In  the  Middle  are 
scenes  from  the  war  with  the  Hittites,  which  are  continued  on  the  S. 
tower.  Below  is  the  Egyptian  army  on  the  march ;  above  appears  the 
Egyptian  camp,  within  a  rampart  of  shields,  presenting  an  animated  scene. 
The  chariots  are  drawn  up  in  long  lines,  with  the  unharnessed  horses  be- 
side them;  close  by  are  the  heavy  baggage-waggons  with  their  teams, 
unperturbed  by  the  great  lion  of  the  king,  which  reclines  before  him.  The 
asses  employed  in  the  commissariat  service  of  the  army  are  conspicuous 
in  the  camp;  now  released  from  their  burdens,  they  testify  satisfaction  by 
means  of  movements  and  attitudes  which  the  artist  seems  never  tired  of 
drawing.  The  soldiers  are  conversing  with  each  other,  and  one  drinks 
from  a  wine-skin.  Disputes  and  quarrels  are  not  wanting.  Above,  to  the 
right,  the  tranquillity  of  the  camp  is  rudely  disturbed  by  an  attack  of 
the  Hittites.  To  the  Eight  the  king  holds  a  council  of  war  with  his 
princes.    Beneath  captured  spies  are  being  beaten. 

The  Left  Half  of  the  South  Towek  of  the  pylon  is  occupied  by  the 
picture  of  the  battle  of  Kadesh,  which  wa  have  already  seen  on  the  pylon 
at  Luxor  (p.  258).  Ramses  in  his  chariot  dashes  against  his  foes,  who  are 
either  slain  by  his  arrows  or  flee  in  wild  confusion  and  fall  into  the 
Orontes.  Behind  the  king  are  other  war-chariots.  To  the  right,  at  a 
distance  from  the  scene  of  action,  is  the  Hittite  prince.  Above  is  a  second, 
now  scarcely  distinguishable,  representation  of  the  Hittites  fleeing  to  their 
fortress.  The  reliefs  on  the  Right  Half  show  the  usual  presentment  of 
the  king,  grasping  enemies  by  the  hair  and  smiting  them;  farther  to  the 
right  is  the  king  holding  a  long  staff  and  accompanied  by  fan-bearers. 

On  the  interior  walls  of  the  Portal  of  this  pylon  are  the  usual  reliefs 
of  Ramses  sacrificing  to  various  gods.  At  the  top  of  the  Jambs  fPl.  a,  i) 
Ramses  appears  pacing  out  the  precincts  of  the  temple  (a  rite  performed 
at  the  foundation  of  a  temple;  comp.  pp.  242,  283);  at  the  bottom, 
various  deities. 

The  First  Court  is  now  utterly  ruined,  with  nothing  left  but  frag- 
ments of  the  wall  on  the  W.  side,  in  front  of  which  lie  the  remains 
of  a.*  Colossus  of  Ramses  II.  The  name  of  Ramses  II.  appears  in 
well-preserved  hieroglyphics  on  the  upper  arms  and  on  the  seat  of 
the  statue.    The  face  is  completely  destroyed.  The  remains  (breast 


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fi.  Rnrnt-xseum.  THEBES  (W.  RAMK).  20.  Route.   307 

upper  part  of  the  arms,  one  foot,  etc.)  still  testify  to  the  care  with 
which  this  gigantic  monument  was  chiselled  and  polished. 

The  length  of  the  ear  is  3'/:!  f- .  surface  of  face  from  ear  to  ear 
OVs  ft.,  surface  of  breast  from  shoulder  to  shoulder  23'/:!  ft.,  from  one 
shoulder  to  the  other  in  a  straight  line  22V2  ft.,  circumference  of  the  arm 
at  the  elbow  1772  ft.,  diameter  of  the  arm  between  the  elbow  and  shoulder 
4V5ft.,  length  of  the  index  finger  3Vi  ft.,  length  of  the  nail  on  the  middle 
finger  7V2  inches,  breadth  of  the  foot  across  the  toes  41/2  ft.  The  total  height 
seems  to  have  been  572/5  ft.,  and  its  total  weight  ca.  lUOO  tons. 

The  head  of  another  colossal  Statue  of  Kavises  IJ.,  found  in  ISIO,  is 
now  in  the  British  Museum. 

The  Second  Court  is  entered  through  a  gap  in  the  wall  to  the 
right  of  the  colossus.  It  is  in  much  better  preservation  than  the 
first  court,  and  is  mentioned  with  its  caryatides  in  Diodorus's  de- 
scription of  the  tomb  of  Osymandyas.  On  all  four  sides  were  colon- 
nades; those  to  the  right  and  left  (N.  and  S.,  almost  wholly  de- 
stroyed) had  two  rows  of  papyrus-bud  columns,  while  those  on  the 
front  (E.)  and  back  (W.)  had  each  one  row  of  square  pillars  with 
statues  of  Osiris,  that  on  the  back  having  also  a  row  of  papyrus 
bud  columns.  The  W.  colonnade  or  vestibule  is  raised  on  a  kind 
of  terrace.  Four  of  the  Osiris-pillars  in  front  are  still  extant,  and 
also  four  at  the  back.  On  the  shafts  of  the  columns  and  the  sides 
of  the  pillars  are  representations  of  Ramses  II.  sacrificing  to  the 
gods.  The  figures  of  Osiris,  most  of  which  are  headless,  likewise 
represent  Ramses  II. 

The  part  of  the  front  wall  which  is  still  standing  is  now  sup- 
ported on  the  side  next  the  court  by  modern  brick  buttresses.  Upon 
it  are  two  rows  of  interesting  reliefs,  bearing  traces  of  colouring  and 
easily  distinguishable  with  the  aid  of  an  opera-glass.  Those  in  the 
Lower  Row  once  more  refer  to  the  Hittite  war  and  commemorate 
Ramses  II.'s  great  exploits  at  the  Battle  of  Kadesh.  The  king  (to 
the  left),  much  larger  than  the  other  warriors,  dashes  along  in  his 
chariot.  The  Hittites,  pierced  by  his  arrows  or  trodden  down  by  the 
horses,  fall  in  confused  heaps;  crowds  of  them  are  hurled  into  the 
Orontes.  Farther  to  the  right  appears  the  battlemented  fortress  of 
Kadesh,  round  which  the  river  flows.  Beside  it,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river,  are  Hittite  troops  that  have  had  no  share  in  the  battle; 
some  of  them  hold  out  helping  hands  to  their  drowning  comrades. 
The  Upper  Row  contains  scenes  from  the  Festival  ofMin  (the  harvest- 
god),  which  was  celebrated  when  the  king  ascended  the  throne 
(p.  325).  To  the  left  stands  the  king,  awaiting  the  procession, 
which  is  headed  by  priests  carrying  the  images  of  the  royal  an- 
cestors. Two  tall  poles  erected  in  front  of  the  king  bear  the  god's 
headdress.  Adjacent  are  priests  letting  four  birds  fly,  for  the  purpose 
of  carrying  tidings  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe  that  the  Pharaoh 
has  attained  the  crown;  to  the  right  the  king  appears  cutting  a  sheaf 
with  a  sickle  for  presentation  to  the  god. 

This  second  court  also  contained  colossal  statues  of  the  king. 
Fragments  of  one  of  these  (in  black  granite)  lie  upon  the  ground, 


308   Route  20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).  6.  Ramesseum. 

notably  the  head,  which  is  well  preserved  except  for  the  nose.  On 
the  throne  are  the  names  of  Ramses  II.,  beside  which  Belzoni  the 
explorer  (p,  126)  has  immortalized  his  own. 

The  Vestibule,  situated  on  a  terrace,  was  reached  by  three  flights 
of  steps,  of  which  that  to  the  N.  is  in  excellent  preservation.  Only 
the  S.  part  of  the  Rear  Wall  (PI.  a)  is  still  standing;  on  it  are  three 
rows  of  bas-reliefs.  In  the  bottom  row  are  eleven  sons  of  the  king; 
in  the  middle  row,  to  the  left,  is  the  king  conducted  by  Atum  and 
the  falcon -headed  Mont,  who  holds  the  hieroglyph  for  'life'  to  the 
king's  nose;  to  the  right  is  the  king  kneeling  before  the  Theban 
triad,  while  Thout,  behind  him,  writes  the  king's  name  on  a  palm- 
branch;  in  the  top  row  the  king  is  shown  sacrificing  to  Ptah,  to 
the  left,  and  offering  incense  to  the  ithyphallic  Min  and  a  goddess, 
to  the  right. 

Beyond  this  vestibule  is  the  Great  Hypostyle  Hall,  which  had 
three  entrances  and,  like  the  great  hall  at  Karnak  (p.  268),  a  nave 
of  three  aisles,  which  was  higher  than  the  side-aisles.  The  nave 
has  six  couples  of  columns  with  calyx  capitals  and  six  couples  with 
bud-capitals.  The  latter  were  lower  than  the  former,  but  upon 
them  rose  a  wall,  with  pillars  and  window-openings,  to  the  height 
of  the  others.  Eleven  columns  of  each  kind  still  stand.  Each  of 
the  side-aisles  had  six  couples  of  columns  with  bud-capitals;  six 
columns  to  the  left  are  still  erect.  Part  of  the  roofs  of  the  nave 
and  the  left  aisle  still  remains.  On  the  smooth  shafts  of  the  columns 
appears  Ramses  II.  sacrificing  to  the  gods. 

On  the  S.  Half  of  the  E.  Wall  (PI.  o)  the  storming  of  the  Hittite  fort- 
ress of  Dapur  is  shown  in  the  lower  row.  To  the  left  is  the  Pharaoh  dash- 
ing in  his  chariot  against  the  enemy,  some  of  whom  are  slain,  while  the 
rest,  horse,  foot,  and  chariots,  betake  themselves  to  flight.  To  the  right 
is  the  fortress,  defended  by  the  Hittites,  while  the  Egyptians  are  attack- 
ing it  on  scaling-ladders  or  push  up  to  the  walls  under  the  protection  of 
storming-sbeds  and  shields.  The  sons  of  the  Pharaoh,  the  names  of  whom 
are  given,  distinguish  themselves  in  the  battle.  —  In  the  upper  row  are 
several  representations  of  the  king  sacrificing  to  the  gods. 

On  the  W.  Wall,  in  the  lower  row  (PI.  6,  e),  appear  the  sons  of  the 
Pharaoh;  in  the  upper  row,  above  PI.  6,  is  the  king  before  Amon  and 
Khons,  with  the  lion-headed  Sekhmet  behind  him,  and  above  PI.  c,  the 
king  followed  by  a  goddess,  in  presence  of  Amon  and  Mut. 

The  First  Small  Hypostyle  Hall,  with  four  couples  of  papyrus 
bud  columns,  has  a  well-preserved  roof  decorated  with  astronomical 
representations  and  pictures  of  the  king  before  the  gods. 

The  Reliefs  on  the  walls  are  not  uninteresting.  On  the  E.  Wall 
(PI.  rf,  e)  are  priests  bearing  the  sacred  boats  of  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons, 
each  decorated  with  the  head  of  its  god.  On  the  N.  part  of  the  W.  Wall 
(PI./)  the  king  is  seated  beneath  the  sacred  tree  of  Heliopolis,  on  the 
leaves  of  which  his  names  are  being  written  by  Atum  (seated  on  a  throne 
to  the  left),  the  goddess  Seshet,  and  Thout  (to  the  right). 

Of  the  following  Second  Small  Hypostyle  Hall  only  the  N.  (r.) 
half,  with  four  columns,  remains.  The  sacrificial  representations 
here  are  of  little  interest;  at  PI.  g  the  king  is  shown  burning 
Incense  to  Ptah  and  the  lion-headed  Sekhmet. 


7.  S!heikh  '^\bd  el-Knrnn.    THEBES  (  W.  BANK).    '20.  Route.   309 

Behind  the  Kamesseum,  especially  towards  the  N.W.,  are  the  remains 
of  a  number  of  extensive  lirick  Buildings,  some  of  which  were  erected  in 
the  time  of  Ramses  II.,  as  we  learn  from  the  stamps  on  the  bricks.  Among 
the  rest  are  some  well-constructed  vaults,  originally  covered  by  a  plat- 
form. From  the  fragments  of  wine-jars  and  the  stoppers  found  here  we 
may  reasonably  conclude  that  these  were  store-rooms  in  connection  with 
the  temple.  Adjacent  is  an  altar,  resembling  that  of  Deir  el-Bahri  (p.  30ci). 
—  To  the  W.,  adjoining  the  brick  vaults,  are  the  ruins  of  a  large  rectangular 
Hall,  the  ceiling  of  which  was  borne  by  32  columns  (the  stumps  of  twelve 
of  tliem  still  remain). 

About  500  paces  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Kamesseum  we  reach  the  Mortuary 
Temple  of  Thutmosis  III.,  protected  by  a  modern  enclosing  wall.  Its  ancient 
girdle- walls  are  partly  hewn  out  of  the  rock  and  partly  built  of  crude 
bricks.  The  inner  chambers  are  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition,  but  we 
can  still  recognize  traces  of  hypostyle  halls,  brick  chambers,  etc.  Many  of 
the  bricks  bear  the  name  of  the  royal  builder.  —  Between  the  Ramesseum 
and  this  temple  of  Thutmosis  lay  the  Mortuary  Temples  of  ATnenophis  II. 
(18th  Dyn.)  and  Siptah  (Ifth  Pyn.),  the  scanty  remains  of  which  were 
discovered  by  Flinders  Petrie  in  1896.  —  Farther  to  the  K.E.,  not  far  from 
Kurna,  are  the  remains  of  the  Mortuary  Temple  of  Amenophis  I. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Ramesseum  were  similar  temples  of  Prince  Wezmote 
(18th  Dyn.1,  Thutmosis  IV.,  Qu^en  Tewosret  (wife  of  Siptah;  p.  291),  and 
King  Amenephthes  (Merenptah;  p.  287),  all  of  which  were  explored  by  Flin- 
ders Petrie  in  1896;  but  the  remains  of  these  are  very  scanty. 

To  the  W.  of  tbe  Ramesseum,  on  tlie  way  to  Deir  el-Medineh, 
lies  the  Oerman  House  (Arab.  Kasr  Almdnyeh),  erected  hy  Emperor 
William  II.  as  a  lodging  for  the  German  savants  at  Thebes. 


7.  The  Tombs  of  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Eurna. 

The  Rock  Tombs  op  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Kuhxa,  situated  in  the  hill  behind 
the  Ramesfeum,  belong  almost  exclusively  to  high  dignitaries  of  the 
period  of  the  18th  Dynasty.  The  majority  consist  of  two  parts:  a  wide 
Hall  or  Vestibule,  with  a  roof  frequently  borne  by  pillars  or  columns,  and 
a  Corridor,  ending  in  a  recess  in  which  the  statnes  of  the  deceased  and 
his  favourite  relatives  were  erected.  Not  unfrequently  there  is  a  small 
chamber  on  each  side  of  the  corridor.  In  front  of  the  tomb  was  a  kind 
of  forecourt,  where  offerings  were  made  to  the  dead.  As  the  limestone 
of  the  hill  of  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Kurna  is  of  poop  quality,  ill  adapted  for 
sculpture,  the  walls  of  most  of  the  tombs  were  covered  with  clay,  then 
whitewashed,  and  adorned  with  paintings.  The  representations  on  the 
side-walls  of  the  hall  depict  the  deceased  in  his  earthly  circumstances 
and  duties,  and  thus  shed  a  flood  of  light  upon  Egyptian  life  of  the 
New  Empire  in  its  heyday.  The  end-walls  (to  the  right  and  left)  of  the 
hall  are,  as  a  rule,  shaped  like  huge  grave-stones-,  one  usually  bears 
prayers  for  tbe  dead,  while  on  the  other  is  recorded  the  biography  of  the 
deceased.  The  representations  on  the  walls  of  the  corridors  illustrate  the 
various  funeral  rites. 

The  more  important  tombs,  which  lie  on  the  E.  and  N.  sides  of  the 
hill,  have  been  enclosed  within  a  wall;  tliey  are  numbered  and  are 
provided  with  doors,  which  are  opened  by  the  custodian.  Some  of  the 
tombs  are  not  accessible  to  the  general  public,  and  to  vi.sit  these  per- 
mission must  be  obtained  from  the  Inspector  General  at  Luxor.  —  Some 
of  the  tombs  that  contain  no  inscriptions  are  inhabited  by  the  poorer 
fellahin,  while  the  forecourts  serve  for  their  livestock.  In  front  of  most 
of  these  cave-dwellings  stand  covered  cylinders  like  gigantic  mushrooms, 
of  Nile  mud  and  straw  kneaded  together.  These  are  primitive  granaries, 
while  their  flat  roofs  serve  as  sleeping  places. 

If  time  is  limited,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  visit  the  tombs  of  Rekhmere, 
Sennofer,  Amenemheb,  Knne,  Ramose,  and  Nakht. 


310 


Route  20. 


THEBES  (W.  BANK).      7.  The  Tombs  of 


B  H 

I 


u 


From  the  Kamesseum  we  proceed  to  the  W.,  in  the  direction  of 
the  mountains,  and  soon  reach  a  gateway  by  which  the  enclosnre 
is  entered.  From  the  gateway  paths  lead  to  the  various  tombs. 
Opposite  the  entrance  lies  the  — 

Tomb  of  Rekhmere  (No.  100),  a  vizier  under  Thutmosis  III.  and 
Amenophis  II.  It  consists  of  a  forecourt  and  a  large  chamber,  from 

the  centre  of  which  a  long  passage 
of  considerable  and  gradually  in- 
creasing height  runs  into  the  rock. 
The  Wall  Decorations  are  much 
faded  and  injured;  among  the  best  are 
the  following.  Large  Room  (PI.  A).  On 
the  entrance-wall,  to  the  left  (PI.  a), 
Rekhmere  (r.)  receiving  petitioners ; 
people  (1.)  with  tribute.  On  the  rear 
wall  (PI.  b)  Rekhmere  receives  tribute 
and  gifts  from  foreign  peoples,  who 
are  arranged  in  5  rows :  1.  People  of 
Punt(p.'i23);  2.  Princes  of  Keft  (Crete) 
and  the  Islands  of  the  iEgean  Sea, 
bringing  costly  vases ;  3.  Nubians,  with 
a  panther,  a  giraffe,  apes,  gold,  skins, 
etc. ;  4.  Syrians,  with  chariots,  horses, 
an  elephant  and  a  bear,  and  costly 
vases;  5.  People  of  the  South,  men, 
~;  women,  and  children.  —  Corridor(Pl.B). 
"n„  On  the  left  wall  (from  left  to  right): 
— I  1.  Rekhmere  superintends  the  delivery 
of  tribute  (corn,  wine,  cloth,  etc.)  at 

the    royal   storehouses.     2.    Rekhmere 

m  inspects  the  workmen  placed  under 
him  (carpenters,  leather-workers,  gold- 
smiths, makers  of  vases);  below  are 
the  building  of  a  pylon  and  the  polishing  of  statues.  3.  Funeral  rites. 
On  the  right  wall  (from  left  to  right):  1.  Rekhmere  at  table.  2  (above). 
Offerings  before  the  statues  of  the  deceased;  belov7  is  the  statue  of  Rekh- 
mere in  a  boat,  towed  by  men  on  the  bank  of  the  pond.  3.  Banquet, 
musicians,  and  singers.    4.  Ships. 

From  this  tomb  we  ascend  the  hill  to  the  *Subterranean 
Chambers  of  Sennofer  (No.  96  B),  a  prince  of  the  southern  capital 
(i.e.  Thebes)  and  overseer  of  the  gardens  of  Amon 
under  Amenophis  II.  These  chambers  are  distin- 
guished by  the  beauty  and  freshness  of  their  paint- 
ings. The  upper  chambers  are  uninteresting  and 
are  now  used  as  a  magazine.  A  steep  flight  of  steps 
descends  to  a  vestibule  and  to  a  room  with  four 
pillars.  The  mural  decorations  all  represent  reli- 
gious subjects. 

Vestibdle  (PI.  A).  The  ceiling  is  adorned  with 
grapes  and  vine  branches.  On  the  left  wall  (a)  sits 
Sennofer  (1.),  to  whom  his  daughter  (partly  destroyed) 
and  ten  priests  bring  offerings.  On  the  right  vpall  (b) 
servants  bring  the  funeral  equipment,  while  his  daughter  stands  behind  ;  to 
the  right  is  the  deceased  entering  and  quitting  the  tomb.  On  the  rear  wall, 
to  the  right  and  left  of  the  door  (d  and  c),  the  deceased  and  his  sister-lover 
worshipping  Osiris,  who  was  represented  above  the  door.  —  Room  P>  (with 


Sheikh  ^Abd  el- lyurna.     THEHES  (W.  BANK).     20.  Roule.    311 

pillars).  The  ceiling  ia  adorned  with  network  paltern  and  vine  briinclies; 
the  latter  occur  also  in  the  wall-frie/e.  Above  the  door  lie  two  dogs 
(Anubis);  below  and  on  the  door-pii.sts  are  the  usual  prayers  for  the  dead. 
Un  the  entrance-wall,  to  the  left  (e),  the  deceased  and  hi-;  sister  iSIerit 
appear  emerging  from  the  tomb  and  seated  on  a  bench.  On  the  left  side- 
wall  (/)  are  depicted  the  funeral  ceremonies,  with  the  deceased  himself 
(left)  looking  on.  On  the  rear  wall  (g)  the  deceased  and  his  sister  (de- 
stroyed) sit  at  table,  while  priests  offer  the  sacrifice  for  the  dead  ;  farther 
to  the  right  are  Iho  ships  Ihat  take  the  corpse  to  Abydos  (p.  237)  and  bring 
it  back  to  the  grave.  On  the  right  side-wall  (h)  the  deceased  and  Merit 
are  seen  in  an  arbour,  praying  to  Osiris  and  Anubis;  in  the  middle,  Auubis 
by  the  bier  of  Osiris;  other  religious  .scenes  and  texts;  jiricst  pouring  the 
water  of  purification  over  Sennofer  and  Merit.  On  the  entrance-wall,  to 
the  right  (i),  the  same  couple  are  seen  at  table,  with  a  priest  sacrificing. 
Most  of  the  [lillars  also  bear  the  same  two  figures. 

We  continue  to  ascend  the  hill  to  thf  Tomb  of  Emunezeh 
I  (No.  84),  a  government  official  under  Thntniosis  IIJ.  In  the  first 
.  chamber  appear  representatives  of  the  South  Eands  aiul  the  North 
^  Lands  bringing  tribute  to  the  kinp;;  in  the  second  chamber  is  the 
;  deceased  huntinir. 

We  next  reach  the  Tomb  of  Amenemheb  ( No.  H5),  an  officer  ot 
the  time  of  Thntmosis  III.,  consisting  of  a  hall  -with  pillars,  a 
corridor,  and  side-chambers. 

Room  A.  On  the  wall  to  the  left  of  the  Entrance  (a)  Amenemheb  super- 
intends the  distribution  of  bread  and  meat  to  his  troops.  On  the  pillars, 
portraits  of  Amenemheb  and  his  wife  Bek.  Above,  between  the  two 
central  pillars  (but  on  the  farther  side),  hy»na-hunt.  The  tasteful  designs 
on  the  ceiling  should  be  observed.  On  the  rear  wall,  to  the  right  (b),  the 
king  was  represented  seated  under  a  canopy,  while  in  front  of  him  stood 
Amenembel),  who  described  the  part  which  he  took  in  the  Asiatic  can)- 
paigns  of  Thutmosis  III.,  in  a  long  inscription  written  in  blue  letters  on 
a  white  ground.    Below  this  inscription,  to  the  right, 

I    are  seen  Syrians,    in  their  peculiar  white  garments 
with  coloured  borders,  bringing  tribute. 

!  CoRRiuoR  (PI.  1'.).    On  the  left  wall  (c)  is  Amen- 

emheb, receiving  vases,  caskets,  sandals,  sliields. 
and  other  objects  presented  to  him  by  the  king  for 
the  eiiuipment  of  his  tomb.  —  Left  Side  Ciiambkk 

\  (IM.  C).  Funeral  rites.  —  Right  Side  Chamber  (PI.  D). 

I   On  the  left  wall  (d)  are  the  deceased  and   his  wife 

'■   (etVaced)   at   table;   on  the  right  is  a  curious  repre- 

!  sentation  of  an  Egyptian  party.  There  is  an  abundant 
provision  of  food  and  drink.  The  servants  in  atten- 
dance carry  flowers  on  their  arms.  The  guests,  two 
of  them  on  easy  chairs  and  three  on  stools,  are  offered 
relreshiuents.  Below,  in  the  second  row,  the  ladies 
are  seated.  An  attendant  carries  slaves  wreathed  and  crowned  with 
flowers,  and  all  the  lady-guests  have  blossoms  in  their  hair  and  round 
their  necks  and  hold  lotus  flowers  in  their  hands.  In  the  lowest  row  is  a 
band  of  music  in  full  activity.  It  consists  of  two  harpers  (a  man  sitting  and 
a  woman  standing),  a  flute-player  (a  woman  standing),  and  a  lute-player 
(a  woman  standing).  On  the  rear  wall  (e)  are  fowling-scenes.  —  On  the 
left  wall  (/)  in  the  continuati  in  of  the  CoKitiooR  (I'l.  Bi)  are  representations 
of  funeral  rites  ;ind  sacrificial  scenes.  On  the  right  wall  (g)  is  Amen- 
emheb's  garden,  with  a  fish-pond  in  the  centre.  To  the  left  flowers  are 
being  presented  to  the  deceased  and  his  wife. 

Ascending  the  hill  a  little  we  come  to  the  Tomb  of  Men-kheper- 
re-seneb  (No.  8(5),  high-priest  of  Amoii.    The  only  paintings  are  in 
Bakdeker'.s  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  20 


312    lioulei'O.  TIIKr.KS(VV.  BANK).  7.  The  Tomb^  of 

tlie  lirst  cliainber.  ()ii  the,  ci',tr:iiice-\vall,  to  the  right,  are  carriagu- 
buildevs  airil  lierds  of  cattle ;  on  the  entrance-wall  to  the  left,  harvest 
scenes;  on  the  right  end-wall,  the  deceased  takes  the  trihnteofthe 
Southlanders  into  his  custody;  on  the  wall  to  the  right  of  the  door 
leading  to  the  corridor,  Asiatics  bringing  tribute,  including  a  curious 
goblet  brought  by  a  Kefti  or  Cretan. 

Passing  the  tomb  of  Nekht-Min  (No.  97),  an  overseer  of  granaries, 
we  ascend  to  the  Tomb  of  Amenemhet  (No.  82),  who  was  scribe, 
steward,  and  granary  superintendent  to  the  vizier  User  in  the  time 
of  Thutmosis  III.  In  the  lirst  room  of  this  tomb,  on  the  left  rear 
wall,  we  see  a  woman  playing  the  harp  and  other  musicians  at  a 
festival;  in  the  corridor  are  burial-scenes. 

We  next  reach  the  Tomb  of  Enne(No.  81),  prince  and  overseer 
of  the  granaries  of  Anion,  who  lloiirisheil  at  the  beginning  of  the  ' 
New  Empire  and  had  charge  of  building  the  tomb  of  Thutmosis  I.  ', 
The  arrangement  of  this  toml)  is  somewhat  unusual.  The  facade  of  : 
the  vestibule  is  formed  by  [)! liars.  The  representations  depict  the  ' 
life  of  the  deceased. 

On  the  1st  Pillar  (to  the  IcftJ  are  lishing-scenes  :  2nil  Pillar:  Harvest-  ( 
scenes  (a  wmnan  gleaning;  three  men  mowing);  3rd  Pillar:  Tillage; 
6th  Pillar:  Enne  at  table;  6th  Pillar:  Enne's  garden,  with  liis  house  and  i 
storehouse  below,  surrounded  by  a  wall;  7th  Pillar:  Hunting-scene:  a 
hysena,  struck  by  an  arrow  in  the  mouth,  rears  on  its  hind-legs  while  a  dog 
dashes  at  it;  a  hare,  mountain-goats,  gazelles.  —  Back  Wall:  to  the  right  of 
the  door,  peasants  bringing  tribute  ;  adjoining,  Knne  hunting  in  the  marshes 
and  spearing  fish.  To  the  left  of  the  door,  P^nne  receiving  tribute  (in  the 
upper  row  are  dark-hrovvn  Nubians,  including  two  women  carrying  Iheir 
children  in  baskets  on  their  backs);  Enne  receiving  the  contributions  of  the 
peasants  (observe  the  lines  to  guide  the  artist's  hand);  Enne  receiving 
tribute  (only  two  rows  remain,  in  one  of  which  are  necklaces,  in  the  other 
incense  is  being  wei:^hed).  —  Corridor.  f>n  thf  left  wall  is  the  funeral,  with 
female  mourners;  next,  the  deceased  in  the  Temple  of  Abydos  (p.  237), 
which  is  seen  to  the  left;  to  the  right,  Enne  and  his  wife  seated  at  a  table. 
(Jn  the  right  wall  sacrifices  are  being  made  to  the  manes  of  Enne  and  his 
wife.  —  In  the  Recess  are  four  statues  :  one  of  the  deceased,  two  of  women, 
and  one  of  a  man.     The  shaft  in  front  of  it  has  been  tilled  up. 

From  the  tomb  of  Enne  we  ascend  the  hill  to  the  highest  row 
of  tombs,  whicli  are  comparatively  uninteresting,  but  there  is  a  fine 
*ViEw  from  the  top,  including  the  Ramesseum  and  the  statues  of 
Memnon  and  extending  across  the  Nile  to  the  buildings  of  Luxor 
and  Karnak ;  to  the  left  are  the  hills,  with  the  temple  of  Deir  el- 
Bahri  at  their  feet. 

Among  the  tombs  in  the  highest  mw,  to  the  right  above  the  tomb 
of  Enne,  is  the  Tomb  of  Haremheb  (No.  78),  who  was  a  general  under 
Thutmosis  IV.  —  First  Room.  To  the  right  and  left  of  the  entrance  is  a 
banquet-scene  with  lute-players.  On  the  rear  wall,  to  the  left,  Haremhel) 
presents  to  the  king  the  contributions  of  the  peasants;  above,  soldiers 
are  being  recruited.  On  the  right  part  of  the  rear  wall  the  tribute  froni 
the  Syrians  and  negroes  is  brought  to  the  king.  On  the  left  wall  of  the 
Corridor  are  shown  the  funeral  rites  and  the  voyage  to  Abydos;  to  the 
right,  hunting  in  the  marshes. 

Close  by  to  the  N.  is  the  much  mutilated  Tomb  of  Zenen  (No.  76),  an 
officer  under  Thutmosis  III.  and  his  successors;  on  the  rear  wall  to  the 
right    the    deceased    is    seen    bringing   the   representatives    of   the   Asiatic 


Sheikh 'A!'>l  ei-KuriHi.     TIIKI'.KS  ( W.  UANKj.     ■JO.Rnnte.   Bio 

peoples,  vvli'i  liavi-  ciiinc  with  Iribuli',  into  tlie  presence  of  Thutiiiiisis  IV. 
This  tomb  is  connected  l>y  abroach  in',the  wall  with  the  Tombof  Amenhotep 
(No.  75),  seccind  prophet  of  Anion  in  the  time  of  Thutnio.^is  III.  On  the 
wall  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  artisans  working  for  the  temple,  and 
surveyors.  On  the  opposite  wall,  statues,  harps,  vessels,  a  pillared  arcade, 
and  other  gifts  made  to  the  temple  of  Araon;  on  the  w;ill  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance,  banquet  of  the  dead;  on  the  opposite  wall,  the  deceased 
is  escorted  to  the  temple  of  Anion  at  Karnak,  the  fajade  of  which  (pylon 
with  Hag-stall's  and  statues)  is  represented  to  the  right,  and  is  here  greeted 
by  his  relatives,  the  priestesses  of  Amon. 

We  ascend  to  the  ridge  of  the  hill  and  then  descend  to  the  N.  to  the 
Tomb  of  Zenen  (No.  74),  chief  scribe  of  the  soldiers  umbr  Thutmosis  IV. 
—  First  Room.  On  the  rear  wall,  to  the  right,  the  king  receives  through 
Zenen  the  trilmte  of  the  Syrians;  adjacent  is  the  deceased  inspecting  tri- 
bute brought  to  him  (in  the  lower  row  are  horses).  To  the  left  are  the 
king  on  his  throne  (obliterated)  and  Zenen  inspecting  the  inarching  of  the 
troops  under  his  command. 

To  the  N.  of  this  tomb  lies  the  Tomb  of  Senmut  (No.  71),  chief  archi- 
tect of  Queen  Hatshepsnt,  in  a  very  ruinous  state.  —  We  descend  lo  the  — 

Tomb  of  Menne  (No.  G9),  land -steward  and  estate -inspector  under 
ibe  IStb  D.Nna.sty.  <>n  the  entrance-wall  to  the  right  in  the  lirst  room 
the  deceased  and  his  wife  are  represented  receiving  sacrilicial  gifts;  their 
relatives  liring  flowers  and  eatables.  On  tlic  entrance  wall  to  tlie  left  we 
see  the  deceased  superintending  the  labours  of  the  lield  in  liis  oflicial 
capacity;  at  the  toii  a  field  is  being  measured  with  a  ro|>  •  (the  details 
are  very  tine).  < 'n  the  rear  wall  to  the  right,  the  deceas.-.d  ami  his  relatives 
at  table.  On  the  end-wall  to  the  left,  the  deceased  and  his  wife  praying 
to  O.'iris.  On  the  left  wall  in  the  second  room  are  burial-scenes  and 
O.siris  Judging  the  dead ;  on  the  right  wall  the  representations  of  the 
ileceased  hunting  in  the  mar.5he.s  are  worthy  of  note.  —  Higher  up  on  the 
hill,  to  the  N.  above  Wilkinson^s  House,  lies  the  Tomb  of  Enief-oker  (No.  60), 
the  oldest  on  the  hill,  dating  from  the  Middle  Empire,  with  slucco-reliels 
in  the  corridor  (to  the  right,  (ishing,  hunting,  handicraftsmen;  I o  the  left, 
funeral  rites!. 

Farther  on,  a  little  higher  up,  is  the  Tomb  of  Imesib  (No.  65),  an 
official  of  the  temple  of  Amon  in  the  reign  of  Itani.scs  l.X.  ('20th  Dyn.). 
This  tomb  was  originally  constructed  under  the  18lh  Dyn.,  but  Imesib 
coa  ed  the  old  reliefs  witli  a  layer  of  stucco,  on  which  he  placed  bis 
own  paintings.  The  festal  barges  with  the  name  of  the  king  should  be 
noticed,  as  well  as  the  golden  utensils  and  (on  the  lei't  wall)  King  Ramses  IX. 
sacrificing  to  the  boat  of  Anion  and  to  the  statues  of  his  ancestors. 

We  quit  the  large  enclosure  de-^idc  tomb  No.  65  and  proceed  to  visit 
a  number  of  interesting  tombs  within  a  smaller  enclosure  immediately 
opposite.  The  Tomb  of  Peser  (No.  lUB),  vizier  of  Sethos  I.,  possesses  a 
fine  stele  and  statues  of  the  deceased,  all  in  the  fureciurt ;  in  the  entrance 
and  on  the  pillars  Peser  ami  his  wife  are  represented,  the  former  in  his 
oflicial  dress.  —  The  Tomb  of  Amenemopet  (No.  41),  chief  steward  of 
Amon,  has  statues  of  the  deceased  against  the  pillars  of  the  lirst  room; 
on  the  walls  are  memorial  inscriptions  and  religious  scenes.  —  We  now 
enter  the  Tomb  of  Amenmose  (No.  42),  governor  of  the  northern  subject 
lands;  in  the  first  pillared  rixmi  (rear  wall  to  the  left  and  end-wall  to  the 
left)  the  deceased  is  seen  presenting  the  tribute  of  the  Asiatic  peoples  to 
the  king.  —  The  reliefs  in  the  Tomb  of  Men-kbeper-re-seneb  (No.  112) 
are  well  executeil  but  iiiucli  defaced.  —  Lastly  we  come  to  the  Tomb  of 
Zeser-ke-re-seneb  (No,  38),  measurer  of  the  corn  of  Amon;  on  the  rear 
wall  to  the  right  in  the  first  room  is  an  e.\'cellent  representation  (^f  a 
banquet,  with  women  dancing  and  playing  before  the  deceased  and  bis 
sister. 

Outside  the  enclosure,  near  tlie  cottages  on  the  road  from  the 
Kamesseiini  to  Deir  el-Bahri,  lies  the  **Tomb  of  Nakht  (No.  521, 
dating  from  the  beginning  ol'  the  ISth  Dynasty,    'i'liis  tomb  ooii- 

'20* 


314    Route  20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).       7.  The  Tomhs  of 

tains  two  chambers,  of  which,  however,  only  the  first  is  decorated. 
The  paintings  on  the  walls  are  wonderfnlly  brilliant.  Under  Amen- 
ophis  IV.  the  name  of  Amon  has  been  obliterated  wherever  it  oc- 
curred. —  WtiiL  A.  In  the  lower  row  is  the  deceased  superintending 
his  labourers,  who  are  ploughing,  digging,  and  sowing;  two  men 
are  breaking  the  clods  with  hammers;  to  the  left  a  labourer  drinks 
from  a  water-skin  hanging  from  a  tree;  a  tree  is  being  felled.  In 
the  upper  row,  to  the  right,  the  deceased  inspects  harvest  operations 
^  represented  in  three  rows:  below,  three 

men  reaping  with  sickles,  behind  them 
a  woman  gleaning,  two  men  packing 
the  ears  of  corn  in  a  basket,  two  women 
plucking  flax ;  in  the  middle,  the  tliresh- 
ed  corn  being  measured;  above,  win- 
nowing the  grain.  To  the  left,  the 
deceased  and  his  wife  sai-viliiing.  — 
Wall  B.  I'alse  door  painted  to  imitate 
granite.  Over  the  true  door  are  the  deceased  and  his  wife  at  table, 
and  beside  and  beneath  it  are  attendants  with  grapes  and  other 
offerings.  —  Wall  C  (in  poor  preservation).  In  the  lower  row,  to 
the  right,  the  deceased  and  his  wife  (much  damaged)  are  seated  at 
table,  upon  a  bench,  below  which  is  a  cat  eating  tish;  their  son 
brings  flowers  and  geese  to  them,  while  three  women  make  music; 
other  relatives  sit  in  two  rows  to  the  left.  Only  the  left  half  of  the 
upper  row  remains :  a  blind  harper  and  women  seated  on  the  ground 
conversing.  —  Wall  D.  In  the  lower  row,  the  deceased  and  his  wife 
seated  in  an  arbour,  while  servants  bring  them  flowers,  grapes, 
poultry,  lish,  etc. ;  to  the  right  birds  are  being  caught  in  nets  and 
plucked;  above,  vintage  and  wine-pressing.  In  the  upper  row,  to 
the  left,  are  the  deceased  and  his  wife;  to  the  right,  the  deceased 
spearing  fish  and  fowling.  —  Wall  E  (unfinished).  Nakht  and  his 
wife  seated  at  table,  while  their  relatives  bring  offerings.  —  Wall  F. 
The  deceased  and  his  vdte,  followed  by  three  rows  of  servants,  offer 
a  sacrifice  (as  on  Wall  E). 

A  little  to  the  E.  of  the  tomb  of  Nakht  is  a  Coukt  adjoined  by 
four  tombs.  To  the  S.  is  the  *Tomb  of  Neferhotep  (No.  50 ),  a  priest 
who  lived  under  King  Haremheb  (18th  Dyn.).  The  first  Large  Room 
contains  some  beautiful  and  well-preserved  ceiling-paintings.  On 
the  left  end-wall  we  see  the  deceased  being  decorated  with  chains  of 
honour  in  the  presence  of  the  king.  On  the  rear  wall,  to  the  left  of 
the  door  to  the  corridor,  we  see  the  deceased  and  his  family,  with 
a  son  bringing  food  to  them.  Below  this,  to  the  left,  is  a  harper, 
with  the  text  of  the  song  he  is  singing  in  front  of  him.  On  the  right 
wall  of  the  corridor,  where  the  deceased  and  his  wife  are  seen  sit- 
ting at  the  table  of  offerings,  is  a  second  copy  of  this  song,  which 
encourages  us  to  leave  all  cares  behind  and  think  of  the  joys  of  life. 
In  the  recess  are  statues  of  the  deceased  and  his  family.  —  To  the 


Shcilclt'Abdel-lytrna.     THKRES  (\V.  BANK).     -JO.  Route.   3l0 

N.  of  the  court  is  the  Tomb  of  Userhet  (No.  61).  the  first  prophet 
of  Thutmosis  1.  This  tomb  was  constructed  in  the  time  of  Kamses  II. 
A  charming  scene  on  the  right  end-wall  represents  the  deceased  and 
two  women  under  a  tree,  with  their  souls  shown  in  the  form  of  birds. 
Other  birds  sit  in  the  branches,  while  to  the  right  stands  a  goddess 
giving  water  to  the  deceased.  i>ome  of  the  other  details  also  are 
very  attractive.  On  the  rear  ^^all,  to  the  right  of  the  door  to  the 
(•orridor  (blocked  up),  the  deceased  and  his  sisters  are  shown  sacri- 
ficing to  Osiris  at  the  top.  while  below  they  stand  in  the  presence  of 
Thutmosis.  —  To  the  K.  is  the  Tomb  of  Amen-wehsu  (No.  Ill), 
a  painter  who  has  decorated  the  walls  with  his  own  hands  with 
well-preserved  scenes  on  stucco  and  texts  of  religious  import.  — 
The  Tomh  of  Khensumes  (No.  30),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  court,  is 
much  dilapidated  and  not  accessible. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  this  court  is  the  Tomb  of  Khonsu  (No.  31), 
the  first  prophet  of  Thutmosis  III.,  with  beautiful  paintings.  On 
the  rear  wall  to  the  left  are  represented  the  pylons  of  the  temple 
of  Hermonthis,  in  which  the  deceased  officiated. 

Among  the  mounds  of  rubbish  between  the  Kamesseum  and  the 
large  enclosure  (p.  31U)  is  the  *Tomb  of  Samose  (No.  55),  a  vizier, 
who  flourished  in  the  reign  of  the  heretical  king  j\.menophis  IV. 
(p.  cii).  As  one  of  the  few  monuments  dating  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  reign  of  Amenophis  IV.,  the  period  at  which  the  transi- 
tion from  the  ancient  religion  to  pure  sun-worship  was  accomplished, 
this  tomb  is  of  great  historical  importance.  The  tomb  consists  of 
an  open  Court  surrounded  by  colonnades  and  a  Hall.  Some  of  the 
scenes  are  executed  in  delicate  relief  and  some  are  painted  in  bright 
colours  or  just  sketched  in  in  black  pigment.  The  pillars  of  the  court 
are  no  longer  standing,  and  the  N.  part  is  still  covered  with  rubbish. 
The  Arcades  of  the  Court  have  been  shut  off  by  modern  walls 
and  are  protected  by  a  wooden  roof.  On  the  E.  Wall  we  see  Ramose 
at  table  with  his  wife  Merit-Ptah  and  his  relatives,  very  delicately 
executed  in  relief.  On  the  S.  Wall  are  painted  burial-scenes.  On 
the  lefthalf  of  the  W.  Wall  is  Amenophis  IV.,  still  represented  in  the 
old  conventional  manner,  seated  below  a  canopy  with  Maat.  the  god- 
dess of  truth,  whileRamose  is  represented  twice;  on  the  riixhthalf  the 
king  aT\d  his  consort  are  shown  on  a  balcony  of  the  palace,  watch- 
ing Ramose  being  adorned  with  the  golden  chains  they  have  thrown 
down  to  him.  Tlie  unattractive  figure  of  the  king  is  here  repro- 
duced with  great  fidelity  to  nature;  the  figure  of  Ramose  is  merely 
sketched  in.  Above  are  the  sun  and  its  beams;  behind,  the  royal 
body-guard.  Farther  to  the  right  is  Ramose  leaving  the  palace  with 
his  decorations  and  receiving  the  consratulations  of  tlie  populace. 
In  the  doorway,  to  the  left,  Ramose  appears  standing;  on  the  right 
Ramose  and  his  wife,  followed  by  three  rows  of  servants,  are  bring- 
ing a  sai-rifice. 

Adjoining  this  tomb  on  the  t?.  is  the  Tomb  of  Userhet  (No.  56), 


316    Koute  20.  T)lKI5E.s  (W.  BANK).  8.  Teinplt  of 

with  its  tasteful  cuiliiig-patterus  anJ  some  excellent  niural  paint- 
ings. Among  tlie  latter  is  a  representation  of  the  deceased,  wlio 
■was  a  baker,  receiving  sonic  loaves,  and  another  of  a  barber's  shop. 

Beside  No.  56  lies  the  Tomb  of  Kha-em-het  (No.  57),  super- 
intendent of  the  royal  granaries  under  Anienophis  III.  It  contains 
admirable  low  reliefs.  To  the  left  in  the  doorway  is  Kha-em-het 
with  uplifted  hands  offering  a  prayer  to  the  sun-god.  In  the,  niche 
to  the  left  in  the  first  wide  CJiamher  are  two  mutilated  statues 
of  Kha-em-het  and  his  relative  Imhotep,  a  royal  scribe,  who  was 
interred  in  an  adjoining  but  now  inaccessible  tomb.  On  the  wall  to 
the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  deceased  offering  two  vessels  with 
two  geese  in  each;  to  the  left  of  this  relief  two  upper  rows  depict 
the  surveying  of  the  fields;  below  are  cheerful  harvest-scenes.  On 
the  rear  wall  to  the  left  Kha-em-het  presents  a  report  on  the  harvest 
toKing  AmenophisIII.,who  is  sitting  beneath  a  canopy  (figures  much 
mutilated).  The  nine  captive  tribes  at  the  foot  of  the  canopy  should 
be  noticed.  On  the  right  is  a  similar  scene  with  the  king  seated 
upon  a  magnificent  throne  on  which  he  is  represented  in  the  guise 
of  a  sphinx.  Behind  Kha-em-het  are  three  rows  of  his  officials  in 
humble  attitudes.  The  chess-board  decoration  of  the  ceiling  is 
peculiar.  —  The  texts  and  scenes  in  the  Corridor  relate  to  the  life 
beyond  the  tomb.  The  Side  Chambers  and  the  Recess  at  the  end  of 
the  corridor  contain  large  seated  statues,  v  ry  highly  polished. 
Adjoining  the  recess  opens  a  small  unadorned  chamber. 

Hard  by  on  the  S.  is  the  Tomb  of  Thuti  (No.  45),  a  steward  in  the 
service  of  a  high-priest  of  Anion.  This  wa.s  afterwards  usurped  by  a  cer- 
tain Thuti-em-heb,  who  added  his  inscriptions  on  a  yellow  ground.  The 
tomb  contains  fine  coloured  representations,  showing  the  deceased  at 
table,  while  on  the  rear  wall  is  a  banquet  at  which  the  guests  are  served 
by  female  slaves. 

8.  Deir  el-Medineh. 

Kurnet  Murrai.     Tombs  of  the  Q,ueens. 

Ko  one  should  miss  seeing  the  beautiful  small  Ptolemaic  temple  of 
J^Hr  el-Medinch.  The  Tomb  of  Iluya  at  Kurnel  Mwrai  (p.  318)  should  be 
visited  only  by  those  who  have  plenty  of  time.  The  interesting  Tombs  of 
the  Queens  (p.  319),  fur  which  at  least  I'/j  hr.  must  be  allowed,  are  pic- 
turesquely "situated  but  lie  somewhat  out  of  the  way  for  the  traveller 
whose  time  is  limited.  We  may,  however,  go  on  to  visit  them  from  Me- 
dinet  Habu  (p.  322)  and  take  Deir  el-Mediueh  in  returning. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Sheikh  'Abd  el-Knrna,  on'the  way 
either  to  Medinet  Habu  (p.  322)  or  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Queens 
(p.  319),  is  the  graceful  Utile  — 

*Temple  of  Deir  el-Medlneh,  begun  by  Ptolemy  IV.  Pliilo- 
pator  and  completed  by  Philometor  and  Euergetes  11.,  and  princi- 
pally dedicated  to  Uathor,  goddess  of  the  necropolis,  and  to  Maat. 
It  lies  in  a  barren  hollow  and  is  surrounded  by  a  lofty  wall  of  dried 
bricks  which  are  fitted  together  in  waving  lines.  Through  this  a 
Doorway  of  stono  (on  the  S.E.)  leads  into  the  temple-precincts,  at 
the  back  of  which  (N.)  are  steep  rocks.    The  traveller  on  passing 


I>cir  cl-Mcdnuh.        TIIKHES  (\V.  UANK). 


I'O.  JiOuU.    317 


(hiougb  the  doorway  in  the  outer  wall  sees  before  him  llu'  teiin>le  of 
freestone,  on  the  smooth  fai.ade  of  which,  crowned  with  a  concave 
cornice,  many  ti reeks  and  Copts  have  written  their  names.  In 
Christian  times  it  was  used  by  the  monks  as  a  dwelling-place, 
and  to  this  is  due  the  mutilation  of  many  of  the  inscriptions  and 
reliefs  and  also  its  present  name  (Deir  :=  monastery). 

Adjoining  I  lie  templi'  on  thj  left  is  an  ari'hw.ay  of  hricks. 

We  lirst  enter  a  large  VKsTimrj.K  ( Fl.  A  ),  the  roof  of  which  (now 
mostly  fallen  in)  was  supported  by  two  flower-columns.  Separated 
from  it  by  t^o  columns  with  rich  floral 
capitals  and  two  pi!lar.s  adorned  with 
heads  of  Hathor  is  the  PaoXAOs  (PI.  D). 
Stone  screens  rose  between  the  pillars  and 
columns,  and  between  the  columns,  which 
bear  figures  of  the  deilied  sage  Amenhotep 
and  the  god  Imhotep,  was  a  doorway,  open  at 
the  top.  Only  the  left  screen  now  remains. 
The  walls  of  this  hall  are  embellished 
with  incised  reliefs,  representing  the  king 
sacrificing  to  various  deities.  Towards  the 
top  of  the  left  wall  is  a  tasteful  window, 
■which  originally  lighted  a  staircase.  —  From 
the  pronaos  three  doors  open  into  as  many 
Chapels.  Above  the  concave  cornice  over 
the  doorway  to  the  Central  Chapel  (PI.  C) 
are  seven  heads  of  Hathor.  On  the  interior 
walls  appears  Philopator,  sometimes  ac- 
companied by  his  sister  Arsinoe,  sacrificing  to  various  gods;  and 
on  the  jambs  of  the  entraiue-door  are  four  gods  with  bulls'  heads.  — 
On  the  left  wall  of  the  Left  Chajiel  (PI.  D)  is  a  remarkable  repre- 
sentation of  the  .ludament  of  the  Dead  (PI.  a).  To  the  right  is 
enthroned  Osiris,  god  of  the  underworld,  and  in  front  of  him  are 
the  symbol  of  Enie-wet  (p.  cl),  the  four  genii  of  the  dead  upon 
a  lotus-flower,  the  'Devouror  of  the  Underworld"  in  tlic  form  of  a 
hippopotamus,  and  Harpocrates,  resting  upon  a  crooked  staff.  The 
ibis-he.ided  Thout  inscribes  the  verdict.  To  the  left  Anubis  and 
llorus  weigh  the  heart  of  the  deceased;  two  goddesses  of  truth,  with 
feathers  on  their  heads,  conduct  the  deceased  into  the  judgment- 
hall.  Above  is  the  deceased  praying  to  thi'  42  judges  of  the  dead. 
On  the  rear  wall  (PI.  b)  of  this  chapel  Philopator  offers  incense 
before  Osiris  and  ]sif.  On  the  right  wall  (PI.  c)  appears,  to  the  left, 
the  sacred  boat  of  Soker-Osiri>  on  a  pedestal,  with  standards,  etc., 
beside  it.  To  the  right  the  king  offers  incense  to  Anubis,  who  holds 
a  disk,  and  to  the  ithyphallic  .Min.  On  the  lintel  of  the  door  is  a 
four-headed  ram  (the  god  of  the  four  winds),  r.bove  which  is  a  flying 
vulture,  worshipped  by  four  goddesses.  On  the  door-jambs,  the 
king  with  three  falcon-headed  and  three  dog-headed  genii.  —  The 


318   Eoute -JO.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).  .S.  Tombs  of 

reliefs  in  tin;  Right  Cliapet  (PI.  E),  which  show  the  king  before 
different  gods,  are  of  little  interest. 

To  the  S.  of  the  temple  lie  the  remains  of  a  town  of  the  Ptole- 
maic period ;  beyond  are  numerous  Tombs  of  the  20th  Dynasty, 
most  of  them  in  ruins. 

Two  only,  both  marked  by  the  admirable  freshness  of  their  paintings, 
repay  a  visit  (key  kept  by  the  Inspector  General  at  Luxor).  No.  1.  Tomb  of 
iSennutem,  an  official  of  the  necropolis  (comp.  p.  282),  with  a  vaulted  tomb- 
chamber  and  well-preserved  mural  scenes  and  inscriptions  of  religious 
import  (fine  representatiiin  of  a  banquet  of  the  dead).  —  No.  3.  Tomb  of 
Peshetu,  another  necropolis  official.  The  vaulted  tomb-chamber  contained 
a  sarcophagus  made  of  blocks  of  limestone.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
relifiious  texts  and  scenes.  To  the  left  of  the  door  is  the  deceased,  lying 
on  the  ground  below  a  palm-tree  and  praying;  to  Ihe  right,  his  father 
(with  white  hair)  and  other  relatives. 

Farther  along  the  \alley  is  a  tomb  with  a  wide  entrance  from 
which  there  is  a  tine  •view  of  Deir  el-Mediueh  and  of  the  fertile 
plains  to  the  E.,  traversed  by  the  Nile  and  bounded  by  the  distant 
Arabian  mountains.  In  the  foreground  are  seen  the  temple  oi"  Me- 
dinet  Habu  ,  the  Colossi  of  Memnon,  and  the  Ramesseum,  and  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river  the  gigantic  ruins  of  Karnak.  —  From 
the  valley  of  Deir  el-Medineh  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  see  p.  299. 


The  bfll  of  KurnetMurraif' Ma/oij,  which  separates  the  valley  of 
Deir  el-Medineh  from  the  arable  district,  is  occupied  by  a  number  of 
fellah  huts.  Scattered  among  these  are  several  tombs  of  the  18th  Dyn., 
most  of  which  are  of  little  interest.  The  only  one  that  nued  be  men- 
tioned is  the  — 

Tomb  ofHuye  {^Amenhotep;  No.  40),  who  was  governor  of  Ethiopia 
(  Nubia)  under  Tut-enkh  -  Amuii.  The  key  is  kept  by  the  Inspector 
(ieneral  at  Luxor. 

Entrance  Wall.  To  the  right  (PI.  a)  appears  the  ceremonial  investi- 
ture of  Huye  as  governor,  in  presence  of  the  king;  his  relatives  and  officials 
congratulate  him.  To  the  left  (PI.  6)  stands  Huye,  with  his  relatives, 
and  in  front  of  him  are  two  gaily  decorated 
Nile -boats;  to  the  right  is  Huye  as  governor 
of  Kthiopia,  with  five  rows  of  people  bringing 
tribute,  etc.  —  On  the  Left  End  Wall  (PI.  c) 
appears  the  deceased,  sacrificing  to  the  dog- 
headed  Anubis  on  the  left  and  to  Osiris  on 
the  right.  —  On  the  Eear  Wall  (PI.  d)  is  Huye, 
bearing  the  fan  and  crooked  staff,  the  symbols 
of  his  dignity,  with  three  rows  of  Nubian 
chiefs.  Behind  him  is  the  tribute  from  Nubia, 
including  a  Nubian  landscape   standing   upon 


/ 
-I  t   I ~ 


(able  covered  with  panther-skins  and  cloths:  in  the  centre  is  a  conical 
hut,  with  dum-palms,  giraffes,  and  negroes  at  the  sides.  Higher  up  are 
bowls  of  jewels,  rings  of  gold,  sacks  of  gold-dust ,  shields  covered  with 
golden  plates  and  gay  skins,  footstools,  chairs,  benches  of  ebony,  a  chariot, 
etc.  The  Nubian  chiefs,  dressed  (with  a  few  exceptionsj  in  the  Egyptian 
style,  are  received  by  Huye  and  his  brother  Amenhotep.  In  the  top  row, 
behind  the  chiefs,  their  princess,  shaded  by  an  umbrella,  approaches  in  a 
chariot  drawn  by  oxen,  and  is  followed  by  chiefs  wearing  ostrich-feathers 
in    their  hair,    which   is  plaited    into   a   kind   of  hood   (as  is  the  custom 


iJeir  el-Medineh.     THEBE.S  (VV.  BANKJ.  -JO.  lioute.    319 

to  this  day  ainoug  these  tribes).  The  processiou  is  closed  by  a  brown  and 
a  black  Ethiopian  woman,  with  pendent  breasts.  The  latter  carries  a 
child  on  her  back,  and  each  woman  leads  a  boy  behind  her.  In  the  second 
and  third  rows  are  Nubians  bringing  gold,  panther-skins,  a  girafle,  and 
o.xen.  Ketween  the  horns  of  the  last,  which  are  represented  as  arms,  are 
heads  of  supplii-ating  negroes.  More  to  the  left  are  Ave  rows  of  ships  (the 
lower  rows  much  damaged).  Five  Ethiopian  princes  kneel  upon  the  deck 
of  the  second  boat.  Cattle  and  other  goods  are  being  brought  to  Egypt  in 
the  smaller  vessels  below.  —  On  the  other  side  (PI.  e)  appears  the  king, 
seated  near  the  corner  pillar;  before  him  stands  Huye  presenting  the  Syrian 
tribute,  which  includes  artistic  gold  vases.  Amenhotep  brings  pieces  of 
lapis  lazuli  on  a  dish;  by  his  right  hand  hangs  a  breastplate,  set  with 
precious  stones.  The  other  representations  are  almost  entirely  obliterated 
—  The  sepulchral  inscription,  which  should  have  occupied  the  Right  Ekd 
Wall  (PI.  /),  was  never  executed.  On  each  side  of  tho  vacant  space  are 
offerings  to  lluye.     The  rest  is  destroyed. 


The  Tombs  of  the  Queens,  called  by  the  Arabs  Bibdn  el-Harim 
or  Biban  el-Bandt,  and  sometimes  Bibdn  el-Haggi  Hammed^  also 
f  deserve  a  visit  from  those  travellers  who  can  afford  the  time  (lights 
should  be  taken). 

On  the  way  from  Deir  el-Mediueh  to  the  (V4  ^'^•)  Tombs  of  the 
Queens  we  pass  a  number  of  inscribed  steles,  formerly  in  niches. 
The  first  of  these  shows  Ramses  III.  before  Amon  and  I'tah.  On  the 
next  Merit-seger,  goddess  of  the  West,  offers  the  same  monarch  her 
breast;  behind  is  the  sun-god  llarakhtc;  to  the  right  is  Amon,  in- 
vesting the  king  with  the  sickle-shaped  sword.  The  inscription  refers 
to  the  campaigns  of  the  king.  We  then  ascend  through  a  mountain 
valley  with  bare  and  lofty  sides  of  limestone,  picturesquely  formed 
and  carved  witli  inscriptions  to  the  gods  of  the  regions  of  the  dead.  — 
The  road  from  Medinet  Habu  (p.  322)  to  the  (t/g  hr.)  Tomhs  of  the 
Queens  unites  with  that  above  described  just  before  reaching  the 
tombs. 

Both  routes  end  in  an  enclosed  Valley,  which  is  of  great  beauty, 
though  not  so  imposing  as  that  of  Bibau  el-Muluk  ([>.  284).  From 
the  farther  end  of  the  valley  ,  in  particular,  a  splendid  view  is  en- 
;   Joyed  of  the  Theban  plain  and  the  Colossi  of  Memnon, 

The  tombs  belong  mainly  to  the  19th  and  20th  Dynasties.  Al- 
together upwards  of  70  have  been  discovered,  most  of  which  were 
excavated  in  1903-4  by  the  Italian  archseological  mission  under 
E.  SchiapareUi.  Many  of  them  are  unfinished  and  entirely  without 
decoration,  and  in  their  rough  and  blackened  condition,  resemble 
mere  caves  in  the  rocks.  It  is  rare  to  find  either  inscriptions  or  re- 
presentations carved  in  the  stone  ;  even  in  the  finest  tombs  the  lime- 
stone walls  were  more  often  covered  with  plaster,  which  could  be 
aiiorned  with  paintings  without  much  difticulty.  The  more  im- 
portant tombs  are  designated  by  tablets  with  Italian  inscriptions, 
and  the  best-preserved  ones,  which  alone  are  \\orth  visiting,  must  be 
opened  by  the  keeper. 

We  proceed  along  the  E.  wall  of  the  valley,  passing  a  tablet 
commemorating  tlie  Italian  excavations.    The  graves  we  lirst  reach 


320  lioutc  -JO. 


TUIir>KS  (W.  llANKj. 


.S.  Tonihs  of 


are  No.  36  (of  an  uuknowu  piiii<ess),  No.  39  (of  Silre^  mother  of 
Sethos  1.),  jYo.  iU  (of  aa  unknown  prinoess),  and  No.  4'J  (oil'ic-hcr- 
irnamf,  a  son  of  Ramses  lllO-    Beyond  these  is  — 

No.  43,  tlie  Tomb  of  Prince  Seth-her-khopshef,  son  of  Kamsos  111. 
Two  narrow  corridors  lead  to  a  some>vliat  wider  chamber,  wliich  is 
adjoined  by  a  small  room.  The  reliefs,  whicli  were  formerly  coloured 
but  are  now  smoke -blackened,  show  the  prince  ami  the  king  praying 
to  various  deities  and  performing;  other  religious  rites.  On  tiie  rear 
wall  of  the  innerm  )st  chamber  Osiris  is  seen  to  the  right  and  left, 
while  on  the  side-walls  are  various  other  di-ities  arranged  in  two  rows. 
*No.  44.  Tomb  of  Prince  Khamweset,  son  of  Ramses  111.,  with 
colourei  reliefs  in  excellent  preservation.  In  the  Fir$t  Room  are 
seen  the  dei-.eased  and  Ids  royal  father  in  the  presence  of  various 
deities.  Adjoining  are  two  lateral  chambers  with  reliefs  of  the  prince 
in  the  presence  of  the  gods;  on  the  rear  wall  are  Isis  and  Nephthys 
with  Osiris.  The  mural  representations  in  the  following  Corridor 
show  the  king  and  prince  in  front  of  the  gates  and  guards  of  the 
Fields  of  the  Blessed ;  adjoining  are  citations  from  the  'Book  of  the 
Dead'  (p.  284).  In  the  last  Toom  the 
king  is  seen  before  various    deities. 

Beyond  the  Tomb  of  Prince  Kham- 
weset we  pass  No.  51 ,  the  Tomb  of 
Queen  Eset,  mother  of  Ramses  VI., 
and  reai;h  — 

*No.  52.  the  Tomb  of  Queen  Titi. 
It  consists  of  the  usuil  antechamber, 
a  long  passage ,  and  a  large  chapel 
with  a  small  chamber  on  ench  of  its 
three  sides.  The  freshness  of  the  colour 
is  extraordinary. 

From  the  An'ernoin  (PI.  1)  we  enter 
the  long  Corridor  (PI.  2).  on  each  side  of 
which,  near  the  door,  is  the  goddess  of 
truth,  protecting  those  who  enter  with 
her  wings.  On  the  left  wall  (P).  a)  we  see 
the  queen  before  Ptah,  Harakhte  (morning 
sun),  the  genii  of  the  dead  Emset  and 
Twe-metf,  and  the  goddess  Isisi  on  the 
right  (PI.  fc)  Titi  stands  before  Thout, 
Atum  (evening  sun),  the  genii  of  the  dead 
Hapi  and  Kebh-snewf,  and  Nephthys,  the 
sister  of  Isis.  —  At  the  entrance  to  the  ChaiKl  (PI.  3>  are  the  goddess  Selket 
(vyith  the  scorpion  on  her  head;  PI.  c),  and  Keith,  'the  great  lady  of 
SaVs'  (PI  d).  On  the  walls  of  the  chapel  are  gods  and  daemons.  —  On 
the  rear  wall  of  Side  Chamber  i  Hathor,  the  goddess  of  the  necropolis 
(left),  appears  (in  the  form  of  a  cow)  in  a  mountainous  landscape;  in 
front  stands  a  sycamore,  from  which  Hathor  (this  time  in  human  form) 
pours  out  Nile  water  to  revive  the  queen.  —  In  Side  Chamber  5  i?  the 
mummy  shaft  (caution  necessary).  —  In  the  innermost  Chamber  6'  Osiris 
sits  enthroned  on  the  rear  wall;  before  him  stand  Neith  and  Selket  and 
behind  him  Nephthys  and  Isis  (side  by  side)  and  also  Thout.  <>n  the  walls 
e  and  f  are  the  genii  ol  the  dead  and  other  gods  seated  at  tables  bearing 
offerings,  while  the  queen  (g,  h)  prays  to  them. 


Veil  tt-Mcdmeli.        illEUE:.-  (\S .  i;A^K). 


.'0.  liouic. 


321 


Close  by  is  — 

*No.  55,  the  Tomb  of  Prince  Amen-her-khopshef,  son  of  Ram- 
ses 111.    The  scenes  in  this  tomb  are  remarkably  fresh  in  colour. 

lu  the  First  KcoJH  (I'l.  1)  we  see,  to  the  left,  Kamses  III.  embraced  by 
Isis;  farther  on,  Itaiuscs  111.,  accompanied  by  Prince  Anien-ber-khopshef, 
offers  incense  to  Ptah;  representations  of  the 
king  before  various  divinities  (Ptah-Tenen, 
Twe-raetf  with  the  ilo^'s  head,  and  Emsct,  the 
guardian  spirits  of  the  dead,  and  Isis),  who 
take  him  by  the  Iiand.  To  the  right  are  similar 
pictures:  the  king  embraced  by  Isi?;  the  kinj; 
and  the  prince  burning  incense  before  the  god 
Show;  Kebh-suewf,  Mapi,  and  Isis  holding  the 
king  by  the  hand.  —  The  Side  Room  (2)  con- 
tains no  pictorial  decorations.  —  The  follow- 
ing Corridor  (3)  is  adorned  with  pictures  like  those  in  the  Corridor  of 
Tomb  Xo.  41  (p.  320).     The  other  rooms  (4  and  5)  are  unfinished. 

Adjacent  is  — 

**No.  66,  the  Tomb  of  Nefret-ere  Mi-en-Mut,  wife  of  Kamses  II., 
the  arrangement  of  which  differs  from  that  of  the  other  tombs  of 
the  queens.  Its  beautiful  pii-tures  take  the  form  of  the  finest  painted 
sturco  reliefs,  which  have,  however,  suffered  in  places  from  tlie  iu- 
tiltration  of  water;  the  portraits  of  the  queen  deserve  particular 
attention.   The  ceiling  is  adorned  with  the  stars  of  the  firmament. 

A  stair  leads  down  to  the  First  lioom  (PI.  1),  along  the  left  ^yalU  of 
which  runs  a  bench  for  the  reception  of  sacrificial  gifts,  crowned  with 
a  concave  cornice.  The  inscri])tions  consist  of  reliiiious  texts  from  the 
17th  chapter  of  the  Book  of  the  Dead.  The  accompauying  pictures 
represent  the  queen,  seated  under  a  canojiy,  playing  draughts;  tlie  soul 
of  the  queen,  represented  as  a  bird  with 
a  human  head ;  the  queen,  kneeling,  wor- 
ships the  sun  borne  by  two  lions;  the 
god  Thout  as  an  ibis  ;  the  mummy  on 
the  funeral  couch;  various  divinities. 
<>n  the  walls  to  the  right,  the  queen 
before  Usiris,  prayinsr  to  the  sun-god 
Harakhte  and  to  the  goddess  of  the  West 
(PI.  b-d)\  similar  picture  of  the  queen, 
folUiwed  by  Isis,  before  the  sun -god 
Khepre,  his  head  in  the  form  ot  a 
scarabaus  (PI.  e);  the  g>ddess  Selket 
(PI.  g).  —  In  the  Side  Room  to  the  right 

(PI.  i)  we  see  (beginning  on  the  right)  the  god  Klinum,  accompanied  by 
isis  and  Xephthys;  the  queen.  worship|iing  the  sacred  bull  and  seven  sacred 
cows;  the  queen  before  Atura  and  (farther  on)  before  Osiris;  the  queen 
offering  writing-materials  to  Thout  and  sacrificing  to  Ptah.  —  On  the 
side-walls  of  the  Staircase  (\'\.  3)  leading  from  Iloom  1  we  see  above,  ito 
the  right  and  left,  the  (|ueen  in  presence  of  various  divinities;  below  are 
I<is  and  Nephthys  kneeling  and  mourning.  On  the  architrave  of  the  door, 
the  goddess  of  trutli  with  outstretched  wings.  —  We  now  enter  the  Pillared 
Hall(V\.i),  containing  the  coffin  of  the  queen,  who  is  represented  on  the 
walls  in  prayer  before  the  keepers  of  the  gates  of  the  underworld.  The 
pictures  on  the  four  pillars  show  llie  ^od  'Horus,  the  avenger  ot  liis  father', 
as  the  priest  of  the  dead  with  the  panther-skin,  the  queen  before  various 
divinities,  Osiris  the  god  of  the  dead,  and  his  pillar-like  symbol.  —  The 
reliefs  in  the  smaller  Rooms  5-7  are  much  damaged. 


322    Route  -JO.  THP:»1ES  (W.  bank).  S».  Temples  of 

9.  Medinet  Habu. 

About  1  M.  from  Deir  el-Medineh  and  '/2  M.  liom  the  Memnoii 
colossi  (p.  330),  in  a  conspicuous  situation,  lies  the  tiouthernmost 
temple-group  of  the  Theban  Necropolis.  This  bears  the  name  of 
Medinet  Habu  ('town  of  Habu'),  a  Christian  village  which  arose 
around  and  even  within  the  ancient  sanctuary  as  early  as  the  5tli 
cent.,  and  of  which  considerable  traces  still  remain. 

The  entire  edifice  may  be  divided  into  two  easily  distinguished 
portions.  One  of  these  is  a  smaller  and  older  temple  of  the  18th  Dyn- 
asty (p.  328),  afterwards  enlarged.  The  other  is  the  main  temple 
of  Ramses  III.  (p.  323),  which  was  encloscfl  by  a  crenelated  wall, 
13  ft.  higii.  We  pass  tiie  pylon  and  other  buildings  in  front  of  the 
small  temple  and  visit  first  the  structure  of  IJamses. 

We  pass  through  the  outer  wall  by  means  of  a  Gate  (PL  A  ), 
aboutl3ft.  wide,  flanked  by  two  small  Porter's  Lodges.  Beyond  these 
we  are  confronted  by  the  remarkable  edifice  resembling  the  gateway 
of  a  fortress  and  known  as  the  — 

High  Gate  or  Pavilion  of  Ramses  III.,  which  forms  the  entrance 
to  the  temple-precincts  instead  of  the  usual  massive  pylon  and  portals 
of  stone.  This  structure  interrupts  the  great  inner  wall  of  brick 
which  enclosed  all  the  temples  within  a  rectangle  and  was  connected 
with  the  royal  palace  (p.  324).  The  pavilion  thus  formed  a  part  of 
the  palace,  which  stood  at  some  distance  from  it.  Its  apartments 
were  occasionally  used  as  a  residence  by  the  Pharaoh  and  his  harem 
and  were  decorated  accordingly  (comp.  p.  323).  Two  tall  towers 
(PI. />,«),  with  almost  imperceptibly  sloping  walls  and  with  their  E. 
sides  resting  upon  a  battering  foundation-wall,  enclose  a  narrow 
court,  gradually  contracting  towards  the  bark,  where  there  is  a  gate- 
way (PI.  a)  in  the  central  erection  joining  the  towers.  The  reliefs  on 
the  Facade  of  the  Right  Tower  (Pi.  b}  show  the  king  smiting  his  foes 
in  presence  of  Harakhte;  below  are  seven  fettered  princes,  represent- 
ing the  vanquished  peoples  (Kheta  or  Hittites,  Emor  or  Amorites, 
Zakari,  Shardana  or  Sardinians,  Shakalasha  or  Sicilians,  Tuirsha  or 
Tyrrhenians,  and  Peleste  or  Philistines;  comp.  pp.  324, 325).  On  the 
Facade  of  the  Left  Tower  (PL  c)  is  a  corresponding  picture  of  Ramses 
smiting  his  Nubian  and  I^ibyan  foes  before  Amon-Re. 

In  the  Court  between  the  towers  are  two  seated  figures  of  the 
lion-headed  goddess  Sekhmet,  in  black  granite  (found  in  front  of 
the  gate).  On  the  walls,  between  the  first  and  second  stories,  are 
some  curious  consoles  or  brackets,  which  are  adorned  with  the  busts 
of  four  captive  enemies,  andfformcrly  bore  statues  of  the  king.  The 
reliefs  on  the  walls  are  mostly  sa'-rificial  in  character. 

Bight  (N.)  Wall  of  ike  Court.  The  representations  from  right  to  left 
are:  1.  Ramses  sacrificing  to  SetU  (defaced)  and  to  Nut;  below  is  the  king 
presenting  two  rows  of  captives  to  Anion,  'i.  The  king  offering  wine  to 
Atum  and  a  goddess;  below,  the  same  ofl'ering  flowers  to  Enhuret  and  to  a 
goddess.  3.  Mont  (defaced)  and  Atum  conduct  the  king  before  Amnii.  — 
Left  (S.)  Wall   of  the   Court.     4.   The   king  presents  an  image  of  Anion 


1 : 2300 

lOO  2O0  300 


aved  i.  primed  bv 


Warner  t  ])ebes,Leipzi 


Mei}mef  liahu.         THEBKS  (W.  BANK).  2U.  Route.   323 

to  llaraklite  and  Maat  •,  below,  he  leads  two  rows  of  captives  before 
Anion  (the  labyan  in  the  lower  row,  drawn  full-face,  should  be  noticed). 
5.  The  king  offers  incense  to  the  moon-god  and  to  Seshet;  below,  he 
presents  an  image'  of  Maat  to  Ptah  and  Sekhmet.  In  the  second  story  is 
a.  window  with  attractive  ceiling-decorations.  G.  The  king  before  Amon, 
with  Jlut  and  Thout  behind  him. 

In  the  Gateway  (PI.  a)  leading  to  the  forecourt  the  king  appears 
<'ondui',ting  two  rows  of  fettered  captives  before  Amon  (on  the 
left)  and  smiting  a  band  of  enemies  (on  the  right). 

A  modern  staircase  in  the  S.  tower  ascends  to  two  Ajxtrlments 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  middle  structure,  the  floor  between  which 
has  disappeared.  The  wall-reliefs  of  the  lower  room  have  vanished, 
but  tliose  of  the  upper  room  (harem-scencs)  are  still  quite  distinct. 
The  windows  command  a  fine  view  of  the  temples  and  ruined  village 
on  the  W.  and  of  the  plain  to  the  E.  Similar  reliefs  adorn  the  walls 
of  the  other  (inaccessible)  rooms. 

Some  of  these  Rkliki-s  may  be  seen  from  below.  One,  on  the  W. 
wall  of  a  room  in  the  upper  story  of  the  N.  Winj,  is  visible  from  the 
entrance;  it  represents  the  king  seated  with  five  maidens  standing  round 
him.  —  From  the  N.K.  corner  of  the  outer  court  (see  below)  we  observe 
iu  the  upper  story  of  the  N.  wing  two  windows.  To  the  right  and  left 
of  these  is  the  king,  again  surrounded  liy  maidens.  More  to  the  right, 
near  a  hole  in  the  wall,  the  king,  with  a  maiden  standing  in  front  of 
him;  of  the  kneeling  and  standing  women  to  the  left  only  the  lower 
portions  remain.  Below  is  a  narrow  window,  with  vases  of  flowers 
above  and  to  the  right  the  king  listening  to  girl-musicians.  —  In  this 
]iart  of  the  N.  wing  we  may  observe  the  holes  in  which  the  ends  of  the 
rafters  supporting  the  floors  of  the  upper  stories  were  inserted. 

The  inner  (W.)  side  of  the  central  edilice,  through  which  we  pass 
by  the  Gateway  a,  bears  reliefs  showing  the  king  in  various  posi- 
tions as  the  conqueror  of  his  enemies.  —  We  have  now  entered  the 
extensive  Outer  Court,  between  the  pavilion  and  the  main  temple. 
In  the  middle  stands  a  small  Gateii-ay  (PI.  7>),  erected  by  Nelitanebos. 
To  the  right  lies  the  Temple  of  the  ISth  Dyii.  (p.  B2.S).  To  the 
left  is  a  small  — 

Mortuary  Temple  of  Amenertais,  a  princess  who  was  the  ec- 
clesiastical ruler  of  Thebes  under  the  last  Ethiopian  monarchs  and 
Psammetichos  1. 

Through  a  Portal  we  enter  a  Forecourt ,  formerly  with  an  arcade  on 
either  side,  each  borne  by  two  columns,  and  thence  pass  to  the  vaulted 
iSancluary,  which  is  completely  surrounded  by  a  corridor.  (Jn  the  Left 
Wing  of  the  portal  we  see  AmenertaVs  sacrificing  to  Amon  (above)  and 
standing  holding  two  sistra  before  Amon  and  Mut  (lielow).  On  the  Right 
Wing  Amenertais  sacrifices  to  Amon  (aliove)  and  to  a  goddess  (below). 
'I'lie  temple  is  adjoined  on  the  right  by  three  chapels,  dedicated  to  Nilocris 
(dauiihter  of  Psammetichos  1.),  Shepenupel  (daughter  of  the  Etiiiopian  king 
Piankhi),  and  Mi'hl-wesekhet  (wife  of  Psammetichos  1.).  The  last  chapel  had 
a  kind  of  crypt,  witli  inscriptions,  visible  beneath  the  broken  flouring. 

The  *Main  Temple  of  Ramses  III.  was  built  on  exactly  the 
same  plan  as  the  Ramesseum  and  was  dedicated  like  it  to  Amon. 

The  facades  of  both  towers  of  the  large  First  Pylon  are  covered 
with  representations  and  inscriptions  commemorating  the  king's 
warlike  exploits.    On  the  Right  Tower  {\'\.  C),  to  the  right,  the  king 


324    noule-2i>.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).  <).  remples  of        \ 

ii  shown  bet'ure  Auioii-Ku-Havaklitc,  gi';i,-pii)g  a  band  of  ciieinies 
by  the  hair  and  smiting  tliem  with  his  club.  The  falcon-headed  god 
hands  him  the  curved  sword  and  leads  to  him  by  a  cord  the  captured 
lands,  which  are  represented  in  the  accustomed  manner  (p.  272) 
by  circular  walls  enclosing  their  names  and  surmounted  by  bound 
enemies.  Beneath  are  two  other  rows  of  representations  of  con- 
quered lands.  Farther  to  the  left,  between  two  grooves  for  the 
tlag-staffs,  is  a  similar  but  much  smaller  scene,  and  beneath  is  a 
long  inscription,  describing  in  exceedingly  exaggerated  language 
the  victory  won  by  Ramses  III.  over  the  Libyans  in  the  IJth  year 
of  his  reign.  At  the  foot  Amon  is  seated  to  the  left,  with  Ptah 
standing  behind,  inscribini;  the  years  of  the  king's  reign  on  a  palm- 
branch.  The  liing  kneels  before  Anion,  under  the  sacred  tree,  and 
receives  from  the  god  the  hieroglyphs  for  'jubilee  of  the  reign', 
suspended  on  a  palm-branch,  as  a  symbol  of  long  life.  Thout  writes 
the  king's  name  on  the  leaves  of  the  tree,  and  beside  him  stands  the 
goddess  Seshet.  To  the  right  of  the  portal,  below,  is  a  stele  of  the 
12th  year  of  the  king  (imitated  from  a  stele  of  the  Both  year  of 
Ramses  II.  at  Abu  Simbel,  p.  408),  representing  the  gifts  made  to 
the  god  Ptah.  The  Left  Tower  (PI.  7>)  bears  similar  scenes  and 
inscriptions. 

Through  the  Central  Portal  (PI.  cV),  embellished  within  and 
without  by  representations  of  the  king  worshipping  the  gods,  we 
enter  the  First  Court,  forming  an  approximate  square  of  115  ft. 
The  inner  side  of  the  first  pylon  is  adorned  witli  scenes  from  the 
Libyan  campaign  of  Ramses  (see  above).  To  the  S.  (PI.  e)  is  a 
battle,  in  which  the  Egyptians  are  aided  by  mercenaries  from  among 
the  Shardana  (p.  P)22),  who  are  distinguished  by  their  round  helmets 
ornamented  with  horns.  To  the  N.  (PLf)  are  the  captured  Libyans 
marshalled  before  the  king,  and  an  inscription.  —  The  court  is 
flanked  on  the  right  and  left  by  covered  Colonnades.  The  ceiling 
of  that  to  the  right  is  borne  by  seven  square  pillars,  against  which 
stand  colossal  statues  of  the  king  as  Osiris.  The  left  (S.)  colon- 
nade has  eight  papyrus- columns  with  calyx-capitals.  These  last 
belonged  to  the  facade  of  a  royal  palace,  which  formerly  stood  to 
the  S.  of  the  temple  and  communicated  with  the  first  court  by 
three  doors  and  a  large  balcony-window.  To  the  right  and  left  of  this 
window  the  king  is  seen  standing  on  a  bracket  formed  of  hostile 
heads  and  slaying  his  foes.  The  scenes  on  the  colonnade-walls  re- 
present the  wars,  victories,  and  captives  of  the  king.  At  the  ends 
the  king  is  seen  on  his  way  to  the  feast  of  Amon,  attended  by  his 
fan-bearers. 

The  inscriptions  and  sculptures  on  the  Second  Pylon  are  still 
more  interesting.  On  the  Eight  Tower  (PI.  E)  is  a  long  inscription 
recording  the  triumph  won  by  the  king  in  the  8th  year  of  his  reign 
over  a  league  of  peoples  from  the  lands  of  the  Mediterranean,  who 
menaced  Egypt  by  sea  and  by  land  from  Syria.    On  the  Left  Tower 


Me.lhiel  llohu.  TIIKllKS  (\V.  MANK).  -20.  UoiiU. 


325 


(PI.  /•)  (he  king  leads  before  Anion  ami  Mut  tlirte  rows  ol'  prison- 
ers, representing  the  conquered  in  this  campaign.  These  have 
beardless  faces  and  wear  enrious  caps  adorned  witli  feathers;  their 
pointed  aprons ,  decorated  with  tassels,  differ  from  those  of  the 
Egyptians.  The  inscription  desr.ribes  them  as  belonging  to  the  tribes 
of  the  Danuuna  and  Peleste  (Philistines'). 

The  granite  gateway  of  the  second  pylon,  which  is  approached 
by  an  inclined  plane,  admits  ns  to  the  Second  Court,  which  is  125  ft. 
deep  and  138  ft.  brna<l.  In  the  Christian  period  it  "was  converted 
into  a  church,  the  remains  of  which  have  been  cleared  away.  This 
court  is  almost  an  exact  r(;produ(:tion  of  the  second  court  of  the 
Ramesseum,  even  to  part  of  the  relief-embellishments;  but  it  is  in 
much  better  preservation.  On  all  four  sides  are  colonnades.  On  the 
N.  and  S.  these  are  snpported  by  columns  with  bud-capitals ;  on  the 
E.  are  square  pillars  with  Osiris-statues,  and  on  the  W.  is  a  terrace 
(pronnos  I  with  eightOsiri.s-pillar.>  in  front  and  eight  coiuinns  behind. 
On  the  columns  and  pillars  the  king  is  shown  sacrificing  to  the  gods. 
The  reliefs  on  the  back-walls  of  the  colonnades  illustrate  events 
in  the  life  of  Ilamses,  some  showing  great  festivals  in  which  he  took 
part,  others  the  warlike  deeds  of  himself  or  his  army.  —  N.  and 
N.K.  Colonnades.  In  the  upper  row  are  ^Scenes  from  the  Great 
Festival  of  the  God  jyin,  which  was  celebrated  also  as  a  coronation 
festival,  as  we  have  seen  in  the  Ramesseum  (p.  307).  First  (PI.  1) 
appears  the  Pharaoh  ,  borne  from  his  palace  by  his  sons  (names 
wanting)  on  a  richly-decorated  litter  with  a  canopy.  He  is  followed 
by  numerous  courtiers,  while  he  is  preceded  by  priests  carrying 
censers,  a  priest  who  recites,  and  a  troop  of  soldiers,  each  of  whom 
wears  two  feathers  on  his  head.  'J'he  trumpeter  and  drummer  in 
the  upper  row,  and  the  ca>tanet- players  in  the  lower  row,  should 
be  noticed.  In  the  next  scene  (PI. '2)  the  king  is  shown  sacrificing 
and  offering  incense  before  the  image  <>(  Min.  The  following  scene 
(PI.  3),  continued  on  the  E.  wall,  exhibits  the  sacred  procession.  The 
image  of  Min  is  borne  on  a  litter  by  priests,  while  fan-bearers  walk 
by  the  side  and  priests  carrying  the  sacred  shrines  follow.  In  front 
marches  the  king,  who  in  turn  is  preceded  by  a  white  bull  (the 
sacred  animal  of  Min),  the  queen,  and  a  long  procession  of  priests 
carrying  standards,  temple  utensils,  and  images  of  the  king  and  his 
ancestors.  To  the  right  is  the  king  awaiting  the  procession ,  with 
two  emblems  in  front  of  him.  Priests  lot  four  birds  escape  (comp. 
p.  307).  Farther  to  the  right  (PI.  4)  the  Pharaoh  cuts  with  his  sickle 
the  sheaf  of  corn  handed  to  him  by  a  priest  (as  in  the  Ramesseum, 
p.  307).  Behind  him  stands  the  reciting  priest,  who  intones  a  hymn 
to  Min,  while  another  priest  presents  the  sheaf  to  the  god.  The 
queen  (above)  also  is  present  at  this  ceremony.  The  white  bull  again 
appears  in  front  of  the  king,  and  beneath  is  a  series  of  images  of  the 
royal  ancestors.  Finally  (PI.  5)  the  king  is  shown  offering  incense 
to  the  god  Min,  who  stands  under  a  canopy. 


326   Route  20.  THKRES  (W.  BANK).  9.  Temples  of 

The  lower  series  of  representations  on  the  N.  and  N.E.  walls  are  less 
interesting.  To  the  left  (PI.  1)  are  the  sacred  boats  of  Kbons,  Mut,  and 
Amon,  to  which  the  king  sacrifices  ;  to  the  right  (PI.  2)  priests  bear  the 
boats  out  of  the  temple,  while  the  king,  beliind  a  fourth  boat,  approaches 
to  meet  them. 

S.  AND  S.E.  Colonnades.  In  the  upper  rows  in  these  a  Festival 
of  Ptah-Soker  is  displayed.  It  begins  to  the  left  of  the  door  (PI.  6) 
with  a  train  of  priests,  bearing  sacred  boats,  images  of  the  gods, 
standards,  and  temple  utensils.  Behind  stand  the  king  and  his 
dignitaries.  We  next  observe  (i*l.  7;  S.  wall)  a  colossal  symbol  of 
the  god  Nefertem,  son  of  Ptah,  borne  by  eighteen  priests.  The  king 
(PI.  8)  holds  a  cord,  which  is  being  pulled  by  sixteen  courtiers. 
Two  priests  offer  incense  before  the  king.  Then  follow  sixteen 
priests  (PI.  9)  bearing  the  boat  of  Soker,  followed  by  the  king. 
The  king  (PI.  10)  sacrifices  before  the  sacred  boat;  and  finally  the 
king  before  the  ram-headed  Khnuin  and  two  other  gods,  and  before 
the  falcon-headed  Soker-Osiris ,  to  whom  he  offers  a  platter  with 
bread.  —  r>elow  are  Warlike  Reliefs.  The  1st  Scene  (PI.  6,  on  the 
S.E.  wall)  depicts  the  king  attacking  the  Libyans  with  his  charioteers 
and  shooting  with  his  bow.  The  infnntry  fight  in  wild  confusion. 
The  Egyptians  are  assisted  by  the  Shardana  mercenaries  (in  the 
lower  row;  p.  3'}4).  The  -nd  Scene  shows  the  return  of  the  king 
from  the  battle.  He  drives  in  his  chariot,  with  three  rows  of  fettered 
fjibyans  in  front  of  him  and  two  fan-bearers  behind  him.  3rd  Scene. 
The  king  leads  the  Libyan  captives  before  Amon  and  Mut.  On  the 
S.  wall  is  a  relief  (PI.  7)  showing  the  king  seated  in  his  chariot 
(with  his  back  to  the  horses)  and  receiving  the  Libyan  captives 
( light-red  in  hue) ,  who  are  conducted  to  him  in  four  rows  by  his 
sons  and  other  notabilities.  The  hands,  etc.,  cut  off  from  the  slain 
are  being  counted.  The  greater  part  of  this  wall  is  occupied  by  a 
75-line  inscription,  recording  the  conquests  of  the  king. 

The  rear  wall  of  the  W.  Coeridor,  on  the  terrace,  has  three 
rows  of  representations.  In  the  two  upper  rows  Ramses  III.  is 
shown  worshipping  various  deities.  In  the  lowest  row  (as  in  the 
Ramesseum,  p.  308)  are  royal  princes  and  princesses.  The  names 
beside  these  were  added  under  Ramses  VI. 

The  following  chambers  are  all  very  dilapidated,  and  only  the 
lower  parts  of  the  walls  and  columns  remain. 

We  first  enter  the  Great  Hypostyle  Hall.  The  roof  was  formerly 
supported  by  24  columns  in  four  rows  of  six,  of  which  the  eight  cen- 
tral ones  were  considerably  thicker  than  the  others.  On  the  walls  are 
representations  of  the  king  in  presence  of  various  deities.  An  inter- 
esting relief  on  the  S.  wall  shows  the  magnificent  gold  vases  pre- 
sented by  Ramses  III.  to  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons. 

Three  Smaller  Chambers  (PI.  G,  H,  J)  follow,  two  with  four  couples 
of  columns,  and  one  with  four  pillars.  In  Room  H  are  two  groups 
of  red  granite,  one  (left)  representing  Amon  and  Maat,  the  other 
(right)  the  king  and  the  ibis-headed  Thnut.  —  The  other  rooms  at 


Mfd'nel  nahu.         THKBES  (W.  BANK).  t^O.  Route.   S21 

the  back  were  dedicated  to  different  deities.  Those  to  the  left  of 
Room  J  were  devoted  to  Osiris.  One  has  a  vaulted  ceiling,  with 
astronomical  representations.  From  Room  G  a  staircase  ascended  to 
other  chambers  on  the  upper  floor. 

The  great  hypostyle  hall  is  adjoined  also  at  the  sides  (N.  and  S.) 
by  two  series  of  rooms  (PI.  1-11),  of  which  those  to  the  S.  formed 
the  Treasury  of  the  temple. 

The  Representations  on  the  walls  of  these  treasure-chambers  refer  to 
the  costly  objects  stored  within  them.  Room  1:  The  king  presents  Amon 
with  papyrus-holders  borne  by  lions  with  the  king's  head  or  by  kneeling 
figures  of  the  king.  Room  2 :  The  king  presents  to  Amon  costly  vessels 
and  boxes  with  lids  in  the  shape  of  rams  or  sphinxes  or  of  the  heads  of 
rams,  falcons,  or  kings.  Room  o :  The  king  presents  Amon  with  sacks 
of  precious  stones.  Room  4:  The  king  offers  costly  table-services,  orna- 
ments, golden  harps,  silver,  and  lead.  Room  5:  The  king  ofl'ers  heaps 
of  gold  and  other  precious  metals.  —  In  Rooms  6-11  we  see  the  king 
sacrificing  to  various  deities.  In  Room  7  the  princes  and  princesses  pre- 
sent gifts  to  the  king  and  queen.  In  Room  10  stands  a  colossal  alabaster 
statue  of  Ptah  (headless),  dating  from  the  time  of  Amenophis  III.  (found 
in  the  first  court). 

We  now  quit  the  temple  and  proceed  to  examine  the  interesting 
Historical  Reliefs  on  the  Outside  of  the  Temple  Walls,  which  chiefly 
conimeninrate  the  wars  of  Bamses  III. 

We  begin  with  the  *S.  Wai>i,,  the  first  pylon  of  whii'h  (PI.  w) 
is  adorned  with  admirable  hunting-scenes.  Above  is  the  king  hunt- 
ing mountain  -  goats  and  wild  asses ;  below  he  appears  with  his 
retinue,  pursuing  wild  bulls  in  a  marshy  district  abounding  with 
fish  and  water- fowl. 

On  the  W.  part  of  the  S.  wall  is  a  long  Festival  Calendar,  which  con- 
tains a  list  of  the  appointed  sacrifices  for  the  period  between  the  26th 
Pakbons  (the  day  of  Ramses  IIL's  accession)  and  the  19th  Tybi.  Beneath 
is  a  procession  of  priests,  carrying  food.  —  To  the  right  and  left  of  the 
balcony-window  of  the  palace  (p.  324),  to  which  a  flight  of  steps  ascends, 
the  king  appears  in  the  act  of  slaying  his  prisoners.  In  the  embrasure 
of  the  window  the  king  and  his  retinue  arc  seen  going  from  the  palace  to 
the  temple. 

On  the  W.  Wall  are  scenes  from  a  war  with  the  negroes  of  the 
Sudan  and  the  first  of  a  series  illustrating  the  Libyan  war. 

S.  Half  of  the  Wall :  1.  The  king  in  battle;  2.  Triumphal  procession 
with  c:iptive  negroes;  3.  Captives  brought  before  Anion.  —  N.  Half  (Libyan 
War):  4.  The  king,  behind  whom  .'^tands  Thout,  in  front  of  Amon  and 
Khons ;  5.  The  king,  the  falcon-headed  Mont,  and  four  priests  carrying 
idols  on  the  ends  of  poles;  6.  The  kiny:  in  his  war-chariot,  accompanied 
by  his  guards. 

On  the  W.  part  of  the  N.  Wall  (PI.  x,  i/)  are  ten  scenes  from 
the  wars  against  the  Libyans  and  a  naval  victory  over  a  maritime 
people  of  the  N. ;  in  the  E.  part  are  Uw  Syrian  wars. 

W.  Half:  lit  Scene.  The  Egyptian  army  on  the  march.  A  lion  walk 
beside  the  chariot  of  Eanisea.  In  another  chariot  before  that  of  the  king 
is  the  standard  of  Amon-Re  with  the  ram's  head.  —  2nd  .Scene.  Battle 
with  the  Libyans.  —  Urd  Scene.  The  king  harangues  five  rows  of  soldiers, 
who  bring  captive  Libyans.  The  severed  hands,  etc.,  are  counted,  amount- 
ing to  12,535.  —  4l/i  Scene.  The  king  in  the  balcony  of  his  palace  inspects 
the  levying  of  troops.     Standards  are  brought  out  and  weapons  distributed 

P.aedekkr's  Kgypt.     7th  Kilil.  21 


328    Route  211.  THEBES  (W.  BANK).  .9.  Temples  of 

Id  the  soldiers.  —  3th  Scene.  The  king  starts  for  Syria;  l)efore  him  march 
soldiers  with  lances  and  bows.  Below  are  the  Shardana  mercenaries 
(p.  324).  —  6th  Scene.  Battle  with  the  seafaring  tribes  of  the  Jigean  in  Pales- 
tine (p.  324).  The  king  in  his  chariot  shoots  arrows  against  the  enemies, 
identified  as  Zakari  by  their  curinus  caps.  The  children  of  the  foe  await 
the  result  in  ox-waggons.  —  7th  Scene.  The  king  at  a  lion-hunt.  One  of  the 
lions,  hidden  in  a  thicket,  has  been  pierced  by  the  king's  spear  and  arrows-, 
another  lies  dying  beneath  the  horse's  feet.  Underneath  is  a  procession 
of  the  Egyptian  army  and  mercenaries.  —  St/i  Scene  (not  very  distinct  except 
when  the  light  falls  cm  it  ol)liquely).  "Naval  battle  with  the  maritime  people 
of  the  TEgfian,  who  were  met  and  conquered  by  the  Egyptian  fleet  at  the 
mouth  of  tlic  Nile.  The  king  shoots  from  the  shore  against  the  hostile 
fleet.  One  of  the  hostile  ships  (below)  has  capsized.  The  Egyptian  vessels 
are  denoted  by  the  lion's  head  on  the  prow.  One  of  these  (below,  on 
the  right)  has  a  large  number  of  oarsmen  and  contains  Zakari  who  have 
been  captured  and  pinioned;  in  the  lower  row  other  prisoners  are  being 
conveyed  away.  The  king  himself  is  treading  upon  captive  foes.  In 
front  of  him  are  some  archers,  and  above  him,  in  the  form  of  a  vulture, 
hovers  the  goddess  of  Lower  Egypt.  —  i/th  Scene.  The  king,  having  alighted 
from  his  chariot,  receives  in  a  balcony  the  grandees  who  conduct  the 
prisoners.  In  the  lower  row  the  severed  hands  are  being  counted.  To 
the  left  is  the  royal  chariot.  Above  is  the  'Kamses  Castle',  perhaps  the 
jialace  of  Jlediiiet  Habu.  —  70ih  Scene.  The  king  presents  two  rows  of 
captives,  Zakari  (above)  and  Libyans  (below),  to  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons, 
the  Theban  triad. 

E.  Half  of  N.  Wall  (PI.  y,  z).  First  Court.  Upper  Row  (from  left  to 
right):  1.  Ramses  storms  a  Syrian  fortress;  2.  The  king  alights  from  his 
chari<it  after  the  victory  and  stabs  a  foeman  with  his  lance;  'i.  The  king 
receives  Ihe  jn-isoners  and  (4.)  presents  them,  along  with  magnificent  vases, 
to  Amon  and  Khons.  —  Lower  Row  (from  left  to  right):  I.  Ramses  in  his 
chariot  attacking  a  I^ibyan  castle;  2.  Libyan  prisoners;  3.  Three  rows  of 
captives  brought  to  the  king  by  his  oflicers;  4.  Return  with  the  captives, 
greeting  by  Egyptian  crandees;  5.  Captive  Libyans  presented  to  Amon 
and  Mut. 

On  the  first  pylon  (I'l.  z)  arc  three  sci^ncs;  in  the  top  row,  the  king 
storming  a  fortress  defended  by  the  Ilittitcs;  below,  battle  with  the 
Libyans;  the  king  alighting  from  his  chariot  and  binding  two  captured 
Libyans. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  outer  court  between  tlie  Pavilion  of 
Ramses  III.  and  the  main  temple  (p.  323)  stands  the  small  hut 
elegant  peripteral  ■ — 

Temple  of  the  18th  Dynasty,  the  oldest  building  at  Medinet 
Habu.  This  was  begun  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Hatshepsut  and  Thut- 
mosis  in.  and  finished  by  the  latter  when  sole  monarch.  The  figures 
and  inscriptions  of  the  queen,  in  the  first  completed  (inner)  chambers, 
have  been  chiselled  ont  here  also  or  replaced  by  those  of  others. 
The  figures  and  names  of  the  gods  defaced  by  Amenophis  IV.  were 
restored  under  Haremheb  and  Sethos  I.  The  entrance  was  originally 
on  the  E.  side,  but  the  restorations  carried  out  under  the  later  Pha- 
raohs (particularly  Ramses  III.)  and  in  the  Ptolemaic  and  Roman 
periods  were  so  extensive  that  little  of  the  ancient  ground-plan 
is  distinguishable.  The  reliefs  on  the  outside  date  from  the  reign 
of  Ramses  III. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Pavilion  of  Ramses  is  a  gate  leading  into  the 
second  court.  The  temple  itself,  to  the  left,  comprises  a  Cella 
(PI.  K).,  surrounded  by  a  Colonnade  (added  by  Thutmosis  III.),  and 


Medlnel  Hahu.  THEBES  (W.  r.ANK).  •J0.Bo7(<e.   329 

six  ClidmbcTs  behind  (the  oldest  part  of  the  building).  The  colon- 
nade is  enclosed  on  the  outside  by  a  purapct  upon  which  rise  square 
pillars,  which  support  the  roof  alons  with  the  sixteen-sided  columns 
in  the  inner  row.  The  representations  show  Thutmosis  III.  sacri- 
ficing or  performing  other  sacred  rites  in  pr(!seiice  of  the  gods.  In 
the  inner  chambers  Thutmosis  I.  and  Thutmosis  II.  also  appear  in 
place  of  the  original  figures  of  Hatshepsut.  The  inscriptions  on  the 
pillars  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  refer  to  the  restorations  by 
Haremheb,  Sethosl..  and  Pinotem.  The  cella,  the  reliefs  in  which 
were  restored  at  a  later  period,  had  a  door  at  each  end  (restored  by 
Euergetes  II.).  The  last  room  on  the  right  still  contains  a  'naos' 
of  red  granite  (unfinished).  —  The  structures  to  the  N.  and  S.  of 
the  anterior  colonnade  were  added  at  a  later  period.  That  to  the  N. 
was  erected  with  blocks  taken  from  earlier  edifices,  bearing  the 
names  of  Ramses  II.,  Pinotem,  and  Achoris.  The  small  grated 
windows  and  the  rings  on  the  upper  part  of  tlie  column-shafts  should 
be  noticed. 

We  now  return  to  the  Second  Court,  which  dates  from  the  Sai'tc 
period.  The  granite  gateway  to  the  N.  was  builj;  by  Peteamenopet, 
a  noble  living  at  the  beginning  of  the  '2()th  Dyn.  (comp.  p.  305). 
On  the  PI  the  court  is  bounded  by  the  Second  Pidon,  which  was 
erected  by  Shabako  (p.  cv),  the  Ethiopian,  and  restored  under 
Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II.  On  the  back  of  the  Pylon  appears  Taharka 
(p.  cv),  grasping  a  hand  of  enemies  by  the  hair  and  smiting  them. 
—  The  adjoining  Court  of  Xektanebos,  o  1 1  2  ft-  loiig  and  26  ft.  wide, 
was  supported  on  each  side  by  four  clustered  columns  with  bud- 
capitals  (two  restored),  connected  with  each  other  by  stone  screens. 
On  the  E,  side  was  a  portal.  —  About  13  ft.  to  the  E.  of  the  last 
rises  the  large  First  Pi/lon,  which  was  built  in  the  later  Ptolemaic 
epoch,  largely  with  blocks  takeiv  from  earlier  edifices  (especially 
from  the  Ramesseum).  Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II.  and  Ptolemy  XIII.  appear 
on  the  central  portal,  worshipping  the  gods. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  pylon,  facing  the  First  Court,  which  was 
130  ft.  long  and  83  ft.  broad,  w.ns  a  Colonnnde  or  Vtstihule,  which 
had  columns  with  rich  floral  capitals,  connected  with  each  other 
by  high  stone  screens.  Only  the  two  central  columns  are  now  left. 
In  front  of  one  of  the  screens  is  placed  a  door- shaped  stele  of 
Thutmosis  111.  in  red  granite,  discovered  in  the  flooring  of  the  first 
pylon.  The  Gateways  in  the  wall  surrounding  the  court  are  now 
built  up;  that  on  the  S.  (PI.  yl'is  adorned  with  inscriptions  by 
Emp.  Antoninus  Pius. 

In  tbe>'.E.  angle  of  the  gi-eat.  !j;irfllc-wall,  near  the  small  temple,  lie-! 
the  Sacred  Lake,  a  basin  about  60  ft.  square,  with  two  flis^hts  of  .steps.  — 
About  4.')  yds.  tn  the  N.W.  of  it  is  a  Niltymeter.  A  Joorway,  Ijearing  the 
name  of  Nektanebos,  admits  to  a  chamlicr  beyond  which  is  a  corridor, 
whence  the  staircase  nf  the  niloineter  descends  to  a  depth  of  65  ft.  — 
Between  the  temple  of  the  ISth  Dynasty  and  the  nilometer  stands  »  small 
(latetray,  with    inscriptions  of  l<".iiiperiir  Dumitian.     Its    original  position  is 

21* 


330   Route  20.  THEBES  (W.  BANK  1.  70.  Cologsi 

unknown,  but  it  was  re-erected  ou  this  spot  with  blocks  found  immured 
in  a  Coptic  building. 

About  200  paces  to  the  S.  of  the  pavilion  uf  Ramses  III.  (p.  322j  is 
a  small  unfinished  Ptolemaic  Temple,  now  known  as  Kasr  el-'Agilz,  erected 
by  Euergetes  11.  to  Teephibis,  a  god  of  similar  character  io  Tliout.  It  con- 
sists of  a  wide  vestibule  and  three  rooms,  one  behind  another.  On  the 
entrance-wall  of  the  second  room,  to  the  lelt,  we  see  the  king  sacrificing 
to  Thout,  Inibotep,  and  the  deified  .-^age  Amenhotep;  the  lower  row  of 
reliefs  alone  is  iini.slied,  the  others  are  merely  sketched  out.  —  About 
'/■2  M.  to  the  W.  lie  the  ruins  of  a  town,  including  the  remains  of  a 
Palace  of  Ameriophis  III.  (comp.  pp.  100,  102).  The  site,  now  known  as 
Malkata,  has  been  excavated  under  the  auspices  of  the  Metropolitan 
Museum  of  New  York. 

Still  farther  to  the  S.  than  (he  Ptolemaic  ten)|.]e,  about  2V2  M.  from 
Medinet  Habu,  on  the  road  to  Erment  (p.  332),  stands  a  well-preserved 
Temple  of  the  Roman  Period,  dedicated  to  Isis.  and  now  known  as  Deir 
esh-ShelwH  (key  kept  by  the  guardian  at  Medinet  Habu).  It  was  erected  by 
Hadrian  and  Antoninus  Pius,  while  the  ruined  pylon  bears  the  names  of 
Vespasian,  Doniitian,  and  Otho.  The  temple  consists  of  a  cella  surrounded 
by  apartments.  A  staircase  leads  to  the  roof  from  a  room  to  the  extreme 
left  of  the  entrance. 

10.  The  Colossi  of  Meninon. 

The  *Colossi  of  Memnon  (called  by  the  Arabs  Es-Sanamdt.,  and 
also,  of  late,  Kl-h'olns.'ult^  i.e.  'the  Colossr),  about  '/^  M.  to  the  E. 
of  Medinet  Habu  and  about  the  same  distance  to  the  S.  of  the 
Kamesseum,  are  the  most  prominent  landmark  on  the  W.  bank  at 
Thebes  and  are  visible  from  a  great  distance  on  all  sides.  These 
two  colossal  statues  have  suffered  severely  from  the  hand  of  time 
and  have  lost  their  artistic  value,  but  they  still  exert  all  their  old 
attraction  in  virtue  of  the  innumerable  associations  that  cling  to 
them.  The  two  immense  flgurL's  and  the  cubical  thrones  on  which 
they  are  seated  are  carved  out  of  a  pebbly  and  quartzose  sandstone- 
conglomerate  found  in  the  sandstone  mountains  beyond  Edfu,  of  a 
yellowish-brown  colour  and  very  difficult  to  work.  Both  represent 
Amenopliis  HI.  atid  they  originally  stood  in  front  of  the  mortuary 
temple  erected  by  that  monarch,  of  which  only  the  scantiest  relics 
are  now  left.  In  the  Roman  imperial  epoch  they  were  taken  for 
statues  of  Meninon,  son  of  Eos  and  Tithonus,  who  slew  Antilochus, 
the  brave  son  of  Nestor,  during  the  Trojan  war,  for  which  he  was 
himself  slain  by  Achilles. 

The  S.  Colossus  is  in  better  preservation  than  the  N.  one,  but 
there  is  little  difference  between  them  in  point  of  size.  The  dimen- 
sions of  the  former,  in  which  the  original  form  is  more  easily  seen, 
are  as  follows:  height  of  the  figure,  52  ft.,  height  of  the  pedestal  on 
which  the  feet  rest,  13  ft,,  height  of  the  entire  monument,  64  ft. 
But  when  the  figure  was  adorned  with  the  long-since  vanished 
crown,  the  original  lieight  may  have  reached  69  ft.  The  legs  from 
the  sole  of  the  foot  to  the  knee  measure  19^2  f*M  *"'!  each  foot  is 
10'/2  ft.  long.  The  breadth  of  the  shoulders  is  20  ft.;  the  middle 
finger  on  one  hand  is  41/2  ft.  long ;  and  the  arm  from  the  tip 
of  the  finger  to  the  elbow  measures  IS'/a  ft- 


of  Memnnn.  THEBES  (^W.  BANK  ).  W.  lioule.    331 

The  Northern  Colossus  is  the  famous  Tooal  statue  of  Memnon.  To 
the  left  of  the  kiiiij  stands  his  mother  Met-eni-weye,  to  the  right  his 
wife  Teye;  a  third  figure,  between  the  legs,  has  been  destroyed.  On 
each  side  of  the  seat  two  Nile-gods  were  represented  in  sunk  relief, 
twining  the  representative  plants  of  Egypt  (papyrus  and  lily)  round 
the  hieroglyph  for  'to  unite',  a  symbol  of  the  union  of  Upper  and 
Lower  Egypt. 

Attention  began  to  be  directed  to  the  Musical  Phenomenon  con- 
nected with  the  colossus  about  the  beginning  of  the  Roman  em- 
pire, after  it  bad  been  broken.  When  it  became  known  that  the  N. 
colossus  emitted  a  musical  note  at  sunrise,  a  new  myth  was  in- 
vented to  explain  the  fact.  Memnon  who  had  fallen  at  Troy  ap- 
peared as  a  stone  image  at  Thebes  and  greeted  his  mother  Eos 
with  a  sweet  and  plaintive  note  when  she  appeared  at  dawn.  The 
goddess  heard  the  sound  and  the  morning-dews  are  the  tears  she 
shed  upon  her  beloved  child.  If  the  sound  was  not  heard,  it  was 
taken  as  a  sign  that  the  god  was  angry.  Strabo,  who  is  the  first 
author  to  mention  the  phenomenon ,  expresses  doubt  as  to  its 
genuineness;  but  Pausanias  and  Juvenal  (p.  354)  a('cept  it  as  a 
fact.  The  phenomenon  ceased  altogether  after  the  time  of  Septimius 
Severus,  who  caused  the  restoration  of  the  upper  portions,  perhaps 
with  a  view  to  propitiate  the  angry  god.  The  restoration  was  not 
very  skilfully  managed,  with  live  courses  of  sandstone  blocks. 
Attempts  have  been  made  to  explain  the  resonance  of  the  stone  as 
due  to  the  splitting  oil'  of  minute  particles  from  the  surface,  caused 
by  the  warm  sunlight  suddenly  following  upon  the  cold  nights.  A 
similar  phenomenon  has  been  observed  elsewhere. 

The  numerous  Greek  and  Latin  Inscriptions,  in  prose  and  verse,  in- 
scribed upon  the  legs  of  the  figure  by  travellers  under  the  Roman  empire, 
are  peculiarly  interesting.  These  are  more  numerous  on  the  left  than  on 
the  right  leg,  and  none  are  beyond  the  reach  of  a  man  standing  at  the 
foot  of  the  statue.  The  earliest  was  carved  in  the  11th  year  of  the  reign 
of  Nero,  the  latest  in  those  of  Septimius  Severus  and  Caracalla,  and  the 
most  numerous  (27)  in  that  of  Hadrian.  Only  one  Egyptian  (who  is  re- 
sponsible for  a  short  demotic  inscription)  is  found  among  these  scrib- 
blers. The  inscriptions  were  for  the  most  part  the  work  of  men  of  some 
eminence,  including  8  governors  of  Egypt,  i'l  epistrateges  of  the  ThebaVd, 
2  procurators,  etc.  A  large  number,  though  not  all,  are  dated.  Many  of  the 
great  officials  who  visited  the  marvels  of  Thebes  were  accompanied  by  their 
wives.  The  colossus  was  frequently  dumb,  in  which  case  the  visitor 
usually  waited  until  a  more  favourable  occasion.  Some  were  so  struck 
with  the  phenomenon  that  they  were  not  content  till  they  had  heard  it 
three  or  four  times.  Hadrian  (130  A.l>.)  spent  several  days  here  along 
with  his  wife  Sabina  and  a  large  retinue.  In  his  reign  a  perfect  (lood  of 
Greek  verses  spread  over  the  legs  of  the  colossus,  most  of  them  by  the 
court-poetess  Balbilla.  One  of  her  effusions  (on  the  left  leg)  relates  in 
12  hexameters  that  Memnon  greeted  Hadrian,  as  well  as  he  could  (w? 
ouvaxdv),  when  he  perceived  the  emperor  before  sunrise,  but  that  a  clearer 
note,  like  that  caused  by  a  blow  on  an  instrument  of  copper,  was  emitted 
at  the  second  hour,  and  that  even  a  third  sound  was  heard  ,  so  that  all 
the  world  could  sec  how  dear  the  emperor  was  to  the  gods. 

By  far  the  best  verses  are  those  on  the  front  of  the  pedestal  by  At- 
klepiodotus,  who  cills  himself  imperial  procurator  and  poet.  They  may 
be  translated  as  follows:  — 


332    Route 'J  1.  EKMENT.  From  Luxor 

'Sea-born  Thetis,  learn  that  Memnon  never  suffered  pangs  of  dying". 
'Still,  where  Libyan  mountains  rise,  sounds  the  voice  of  his  loud  crying' 
'(Mountains  vrhich  the  Nile-stream,  laving,  parts  from  Thebes,  the  hun- 
dred-gated)' 
'When  he  glow^s,  through  rays  maternal  with  warm  light  illuminated'. 
'But  thy  son  who,  never-.sated,  dreadful  battle  still  was  seeking', 
'Dumb  in  Troy  and  Thessaly,  rests  now,  never  speaking'. 

Among  the  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  colossi  are  the 
remains  of  another  Statue  of  great  size,  lying  about  3  min.  to  the 
W.,  amidst  arable  land.  Close  by  is  a  large  Sandstone  Stele,  now 
broken  in  two,  which  is  almost  the  only  relic  of  the  temple  in  front 
of  which  the  above-mentioned  statues  stood.  The  hieroglyphics  and 
the  representations  refer  to  the  dedication  of  the  temple.  In  the 
rounded  pediment  the  Pharaoh  appears  receiving  the  symbol  of  life 
from  Amon  on  the  right  and  from  Soker-Osiris  on  the  left ;  above 
are  the  winged  sun-disk  and  the  name  of  Amenophis  III.  Behind 
the  Pharaoh  in  each  case  is  his  consort  Teye.  —  Still  farther  to  the 
N.W.,  at  the  foot  of  the  Libyan  motintaius,  are  two  fragments  of  an 
ancient  brick  building,  known  as  Kom  el-Heltdn. 


21.  From  Luxor  to  Assuan  by  Railway. 

('oiiiji.  (lie  Map,  p.  'Jll. 
132  M.  One  rxpress  train  (with  restaurant-car)  daily  in  6'/4  hrs.,   and 
one   slow  train   in   8'/4  hrs.     The    railway  (very  dusty)   is  a  narrow-gauge 
single  line  ;  passengers  from  Cairo  change  carriages  at  Luxor. 

Luxor,  see  p.  251.  —  The  line  sometimes  skirts  the  right  bank 
of  the  Nile,  sometimes  the  edge  of  the  desert. 

121/2  M.  Erment  (Armani).  The  town  (12,300  iiihab.),  with 
an  important  sugar-factory  and  post  and  telegraph  offlces,  lies  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  This  town  was  called  in  antiquity  On, 
or,  to  distinguish  it  from  On  (  Ueliopolis)  in  Lower  Egypt  (p.  120), 
the  VpTper  Egyptian  On  or  Per-Mont  {i.e.  'House  of  Mont),  whence 
the  Greek  name  Uermonthh  was  formed.  Its  deity  was  the  falcon- 
headed  Mout,  god  of  war.  In  the  Roman  imperial  period  it  was  the 
capital  of  a  province. 

The  bank  is  shaded  by  stately  lebbakh-trees.  From  the  point 
where  the  bazaar  reaches  the  bank  of  the  river  a  flight  of  steps,  in- 
corporating several  ancient  sculptured  fragments,  descends  to  the 
stream.  The  large  temple-buildings,  dating  from  the  Ptolemaic  and 
imperial  periods,  which  lay  about  lt/2  M.  to  the  N.E.,  have  been  al- 
most entirely  destroyed,  the  stones  being  used  to  build  the  sugar- 
fa  ctory. 

At  Rizakdi  (El-Rizev/tit,  El-Kezikui),  4'/2  31-  to  the  S.W.  of  Erment,  is 
a"necroiJolis  of  the  Middle  Empire.  —  The  village  of  Et-Tiid  (El-Tod), 
the  ancient  Tuphium,  1'/^  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  station  of  Erment,  on  the  E. 
bank,  contains  the  picturesque  remains  of  a  large'temple  of  the  Ptolemaic 
and  imperial  periods,  dedicated  to  Mont.  One  chamber  of  the  Ptolemaic 
period,  in  perfect  preservation,   is  inhabited  by  a   sheikh.     The  building 


t(j  Assudn.  EL-KAB.  -Jl.  Route.   33o 

in  front,  probably  the  ancient  vestibule,  is  rejuesenleii  by  a  wall  and  I'y 
Ihe  lower  halves  of  columns. 

IT'/a  M.  SItayhb,  or  Shaghab  ( Chayab),  is  the  station  for  Gebelein 
(i.e.  'the  two  mountains  ),  the  long  ridge  of  which  is  visible  on  the 
left  bank  of  tlie  river,  crowned  with  the  tomb  of  a  Sheikli  Musa 
beside  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  the  Middle  Kmpire.  In  the  back- 
ground rise  the  hills  of  the  Libyan  Desert.  At  the  \illage  of  Gebe- 
lein, at  the  W.  base  of  the  hill,  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Croco- 
dilopolis.  Sarcophagi  of  the  Middle  Empire ,  numerous  simple 
domestic  articles,  and.  graves  of  crocodiles  have  been  found  here. 
In  the  neighbourhood  once  stood  also  the  ancient  Aphroditespolis, 
also  called  Pathyris  (House  of  Hathor),  which  for  some  time  was 
the  capital  of  a  separate  nome. 

On  theE.  bank,  to  the  S.E.  of  Shaghb,  lie  the  villages  oi  Dabd- 
bhjeh  (El-Daba'ibah),  near  which  are  quarries  with  inscriptions,  and 
El-Mu'alla.  near  which  are  tombs  of  the  New  Empire.  —  28'/2  M- 
El-  Mdta'neh  ( Matana),  st:ition  \'ov  Asfun  el-Matd'neh,  on  the  W. 
bank,  with  large  sugar-factories,  the  ancient  ^Isp/tyiiw  (Egypt.  Hes- 
fan).  —  The  railway  now  skirts  the  edge  of  the  desert  until  just 
before  Ilsneli,  when  it  returns  to  the  river-bank. 

35V2  M.  Esneh.  The  town  (p.  342),  with  its  slender  minarets, 
lies  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Nile  and  is  reached  via  the  barrage 
mentioned  at  p.  342  (trolley,  1-2  pias.  each  pers. ;  ilonkeys  also 
tneet  the  trains).  The  temple  is  not  visible  from  the  railway.  — 
46  M.  Ei-Sihd'yeh  (EL-Sibaiu,  Sabn'ieh).  The  village  lies  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Nile. 

r)2  Jl.  El-Mahamid  is  the  station  for  visitors  to  the  ruins  and 
tombs  of  El-Kdb,  lying  I'/o  ^^-  ^^  ^^^  S.E.  of  the  station,  between 
the  railway  and  the  Nile.  A  simple  visit  to  these  may  be  made  on 
foot,  but  those  who  wish  to  do  more  should  communicate  in  advance 
with  the  postmaster  or  station-master  of  El-Mahamid,  either  by  post 
or  telegraph,  so  that  donkeys  may  be  in  waiting  at  the  station  and 
the  guardians  of  El-Kab  at  their  post.  Close  behind  the  station,  to 
the  left,  is  the  isolated  hill  of  tombs,  and  to  the  right  is  the  old 
town-wall  of  Nekhab. 

El-Kftb. 

El-Kdb,  the  ancient  iVtA-/i(;6,  oint^  ranked  among  the  chief  cities 
of  Egypt  and  was  in  prehistoric  times  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of 
Upper  Egypt.  Even  under  the  I'lolemies  it  was  the  capital  of  the 
third  nome  of  Upper  Egypt,  which  was  afterwards  named  Latopolites. 
Nekhbeyet,  the  goddess  of  the  town,  was  represented  either  as  a 
vulture  or  as  a  woman  with  the  crown  of  Upper  Egypt;  she  was 
regarded  as  a  protecting  deity  of  Upper  Egypt.  She  also  assisted 
women  in  childbirth,  atid  was  therefore  identitied  with  Eileithyia 
by  the  Greek.*,  who  named  the  town  Eileillnjiaspolis.  Ilalf-a-day 
suffices  for  a  visit  to  the  chief  antiquities. 


334   Route  21.  EL-KAB.  From  Ijuxot 

The  *RuiNS  OF  the  Ancient  Town  of  Nekuab,  which  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  massive  girdle-wall  of  sun-dried  bricks,  lie  near  the 
river.  The  wall,  which  probably  dates  from  the  Middle  Empire,  is 
damaged  only  on  the  S.W.,  by  the  Nile.  It  is  of  immense  thickness 
(37  ft.)  and  encloses  a  rectangle,  620  yds.  long  by  590  yds.  broad, 
with  gates  on  the  E.,  N.,  and  S.  sides,  beside  which  broad  ascents 
lead  to  the  top  of  the  wall.  The  N.  wall  intersects  a  necropolis  of 
the  Ancient  Empire,  excavated  by  Quibell  in  1897.  The  city  itself, 
enclosed  by  another  double  vrall,  of  which  distinct  traces  are  still 
to  be  seen,  occupied  only  about  one-fourth  of  the  space  within  the 
girdle-wall.  Very  scanty  ruins  now  remain  of  the  temple,  built 
during  the  18th  Dyn.  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  sanctuary  and  en- 
larged by  Nektanebos  and  others. 

Visitors  should  not  omit  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  N.  wall,  for  the 
sake  of  the  admirable  view:  to  the  E.,  at  the  head  of  a  desert-valley, 
appear  the  isolated  rock  with  the  inscriptions,  the  temple  of  Amenophis  III., 
and,  a  little  nearer,  the  chapel  of  Ramses  II.  (comp.  below);  to  the  N.  is 
the  hill  with  the  rock-tombs,  and  a  little  farther  away  is  a  mushroom- 
shaped  rock,  with  the  quarries  that  yielded  the  stone  for  the  city  temple. 

We  follow  the  route  leading  due  E.  from  the  E.  gateway  in  the 
girdle-wall  and  cross  the  dazzlingly  white  sand,  past  a  small  ruined 
Sandstone  Chapel  (no  inscriptions)  close  to  the  wall.  In  rather  more 
than  V2  hr.  we  reach  a  Chapel  of  Ramses  II.,  known  to  the  Arabs  as 
El-Haimndm,  i.e.  'the  bath  . 

This  temple  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Kauises  II.  by  Setaw,  governor 
of  Ethiopia,  represented  in  the  entrance-doorway  and  on  the  interior  walls 
on  each  side  of  the  entrance.  Other  reliefs  show  Earases  II.  sacrificing 
to  Thout  and  Horus.  On  the  upper  part  of  the  rear  wall  (right)  are  cyno- 
cephali,  sacred  to  Thout;  below  are  praying  men. 

We  keep  straight  on,  leaving  the  larger  temple  of  the  Ptolemies 
on  the  left,  and  soon  reach  two  Rocks  projecting  from  the  plain,  at 
the  point  where  the  road  turns  N.  towards  the  desert,  halfway  be- 
tween El-Hammam  and  the  E.  temple  of  Amenophis  III.  Both 
rocks  bear  numerous  inscriptions  and  figures  of  animals.  Most  of 
these  date  from  the  6th  Dyn.  and  were  probably  placed  here  by 
priests  of  El-Kab. 

The  i-harming  small  temple  or  *Ch.vpbl  of  Amknophis  III.  lies 
fully  V4^''-  ^^  th^  ^^-  I''  ™^y  ^®  reached  direct  in  about  an  hour 
from  the  Nile.  The  little  temple,  which  is  about  50  ft.  deep,  was 
dedicated  to  Nekhbeyet,  'mistress  of  Ke-yant'  (i.e.  of  the  entrance  to 
the  desert-valley).  It  consists  of  a  ruined  Vestibule  of  the  Ptolemaic 
period,  with  papyrus-columns  (the  capitals  of  which  strew  the 
ground),  and  of  a  Chamber  the  roof  of  which  was  borne  by  four  six- 
teen-sided columns  embellished  with  heads  of  Hathor.  The  names 
of  the  king,  Amon ,  and  Nekhbeyet,  and  several  representations 
of  the  gods  were  defaced  under  Amenophis  IV.  and  restored  under 
Sethos  I.   Many  of  them  were  again  renewed  in  the  Ptolemaic  period. 

On  the  Entrance  Door  of  the  chamber  are  a  votive  inscription  and  a 
representation  of  Amenophis  III.  The  exterior  walls  bear  only  a  few  in- 
scriptions  and   representations  (ships)  which  were   added   at   a  later  date; 


to  Assudn. 


EL-KAB.  21.  Rouu.   835 


to  the  riglit  of  the  door  is  Khamweset,  in  presence  of  Uamses  II.,  his 
father,  in  couinieinoration  of  the  king's  fifth  jubilee,  in  the  41st  year  of 
liis  reign.  Another  hieroglyphic  inscription  here  ('In  the  ISlh  year  of  his 
majesty,  lord  of  the  world.  Napoleon  III.')  is  certainly  the  latest  in  Kgypt, 
with  the  exception  of  that  added  to  celelirate  'iving  Henri  V.'  (i.e.  Count 
Chambord).  Ou  the  pavement  outside  the  chapel  representations  of  foot- 
prints have  been  scratched  by  pilgrims  (see  below). 

The  representations  within  the  Chamber  have  retained  their  colouring 
in  good  condition.  ()n  each  side  of  the  entrance,  Amenophis  III.  and  his 
father  Thutmosis  IV.  seated  at  banquet-tables.  Left  Wall.  Amenophis  III. 
sacrilicing  to  the  sacred  boat,  which  is  decorated  with  falcons'  heads; 
Amenophis  III.  presenting  incense  and  water  toNekhbeyet;  Anion  (blue) 
embracing  the  king  and  holding  the  hieroglyph  for  'life'  to  the  king's 
nose.  Rear  Wall.  On  each  side  of  tin;  recess,  Amenophis  III.  sacrificing 
to  Nekhbeyet.  liiglU  Wall.  The  falcon-headed  Horus  handing  the  hiero- 
. glyph  for  'life'  to  the  king  who  stands  before  him;  the  king  presenting 
two  wine- jars  to  Nekhbeyet;  the  king  sacrilicing  to  the  sacred  boat. 
Adjacent  are  demotic  inscriptions  in  red,  written  by  visitors  to  the  chapel. 
The  names  of  Amenophis  alternating  with  heads  of  Hathor  are  arranged 
as  a  frieze  in  this  hall  and  as  an  embellishment  on  the  architrave;  at 
the  base  of  the  walls  are  bulls  in  a  marsh. 

Turning  at  this  little  temple  we  direct  onr  steps  towards  the  Nile 
and  in  '4  hr.  reach  the  ItocK  Temple,  on  the  right  side  of  the  vaK 
ley,  recognizable  from  a  distance  by  the  Stair  leading  up  to  it.  The 
latter  consists  of  41  steps  hewn  in  the  rock,  with  a  massive  bal- 
ustrade on  each  side.  The  temple,  dedicated  to  Nekhbeyet,  was  con- 
structed under  Ptolemy  IX.  Euergetes  II.  (Physkon),  and  provided 
with  reliefs  and  inscriptions  by  him  and  by  Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II. 

On  reaching  the  platform  at  the  top  of  the  stair  we  pass  through  a 
doorway  to  a  Vestibule,  not  quite  33  ft.  wide,  which  was  supported  by 
columns  with  elaborate  floral  capitals,  while  the  e.xterior  sides  were 
bounded  by  stone  screen?  built  between  columns.  Thence  another  door,  the 
right  half  of  which  is  still  standing,  leads  into  a  smaller  Hall  (only  20  ft. 
wide),  which  also  was  bounded  by  screens  between  columns.  The  floor 
is  covered  with  ruins.  Behind  thi.s  is  the  Rock  Ciiambicr.  This  chamber, 
which  was  originally  a  tomb-chamber  dating  from  the  New  Empire,  ha.s 
a  vaulted  ceiling,  with  vultures  hovering  in  the  centre.  At  the  top  of  the 
walls  is  a  frieze  made  of  the  name  of  Ptolemy  X.  between  head.s  of 
Hathor.  Below  are  inscriptions  and  much  injured  representations  of  the 
king  and  queen  before  various  deiiies. 

On  an  isolateil  hill,  about  1  M.  from  the  steamboat  landing-place, 
are  a  number  of  *Rock  Tombs,  placed  side  by  side  on  the  S.  slope. 
Most  of  these  date  from  the  end  of  the  Middle  Empire  or  from  the 
beginning  of  the  New  Empire.  There  are  31  tombs  in  all,  but  only 
6  repay  a  visit.  These  tombs,  like  all  the  monuments  at  El-Kab,  are 
of  small  dimensions,  but  their  distinct  pictures  of  anriciit  Egyptian 
domestic  life  will  interest  even  those,  travellers  who  have  already 
seen  the  tombs  of  Bciiihasan  (p.  2'27)  and  Slieikh  'Abd  el-Kursia 
(p.  309). 

We  first  enter  the  tomb  of  Peheri  (Pehrdij,  nomarch  of  El-Kab, 
which  is  conspicuous  by  its  wiile  opening.  It  dates  from  the  reign  of 
Thutmosis  III.,  and  is  distinguished  by  a  series  of  representations 
from  the  life  of  the  deceased,  with  well-preserved  colouring. 

In  front  of  the  entrance  is  a  platform  in  which  is  the  opening  of  a 
deep  mummy-shaft.    We  enter  the  vaulted  Tomb  by  a  much  damaged  door. 


336    Route  21.  EL-KAl!.  From  Luxor 

Entrance  Wall^  to  the  left;  the  deceased  with  a  long  stall';  above  is  a  sailing 
fhip.  —  Le/t  Wall  (  W.).  In  the  upper  row  is  the  deceased  inspecting  harvest 
operations  (ploughing,  sowing,  reaping  with  sickles,  collecting  and  binding 
the  sheavep,  oxen  treading  out  the  corn,  winnowing  the  grain,  bringing 
home  the  grain  in  sacks).  In  the  lower  row  the  deceased  inspects  his 
herds  (cattle,  asses,  etc.);  he  superintends  the  weighing  of  gold  made  into 
rings  and  the  shipping  of  his  grain.  In  the  upper  row  farther  on  Peheri 
holds  on  his  lap  the  young  Prince  Wezmose,  whose  tutor  he  was;  Peheri 
and  his  wife  in  a  bower  receiving  flowers,  fruit,  etc. ;  above,  vintage 
scenes.  In  the  lower  row  Peheri  superintends  his  fowlers  and  fishers; 
the  captured  birds  and  fish  are  being  prepared  and  the  nets  mended. 
Farther  on  to  the  right  the  burial  of  Peheri  and  the  accompanying  rites 
are  shown  in  five  rows  one  above  the  other.  —  Right  Wall  (E.).  Peheri 
and  his  wife  at  a  banquet,  with  their  son  officiating  as  a  priest  before 
them.  Below  their  chair  is  a  tame  baboon.  Opposite  them  are  their 
relatives  at  table,  and  in  the  lower  row  are  a  female  harpist  and  flute-- 
player.  Farther  on  to  the  right  are  Peheri  and  his  wife ,  praying 
and  sacrificing.  A  door  was  afterwards  made  through  this  wall  to  two 
other  chambers.  —  Rear  Wall.  In  the  recess  here  sit  Peheri,  his  wife, 
and  his  mother.  On  the  side-walls  of  the  recess  are  various  persons  at 
u.  banquet. 

Of  the  tombs  to  the  right  of  the  tomb  of  I'eheri  that  of  Ahmose 
Pen-Nekhbeyet  is  noteworthy.  It  consists  of  a  single  vaulted  cham- 
ber, the  line  reliefs  in  which  have,  however,  left  few  traces. 

Ahmose  was  a  well-known  historical  personage,  who  was  prominent, 
especially  in  war,  under  the  first  kings  of  the  New  Empire,  from  Amosis  I. 
to  Thutmosis  III.     His  biography  is  recorded  in  the  doorway. 

To  the  left  of  the  tomb  of  Peheri  is  that  of  Setaw,  high-priest  of 
Nekhbeyet.  Tins  tomb,  dating  from  the  time  of  Ramses  IX.  (^'20tli 
Dyn.),  is  the  latest  grave  with  inscriptions  at  El-Ka,b.  Though 
400  years  later  than  the  otliers,  it  is  decorated  on  the  same  plan. 

On  the  Left  Wall  nothing  can  now  be  distinguished  but  four  sacred 
boats,  apparently  bound  for  a  festival  of  the  king.  Riyht  Wall.  To  the  left 
are  Setaw  and  his  wife  at  table:  below  their  chair  is  a  baboon.  Before 
them  their  son-in-law  officiates  as  priest,  in  a  panther-skin  ;  and  opposite  are 
their  relatives  at  table,  seated  in  rows.  The  artist  has  included  his  own 
portrait,  identified  by  ihe  palette.  Part  of  this  scene  is  destroyed  by  a  door 
made  at  a  later  period  to  a  side-chamber.  Farther  to  the  right  are  Setaw 
and   his  wife   sacrificing.  —  The  stele  ■  n  the  Rear  Wall  is  much  injured. 

To  the  left  of  this  tomb  lies  that  of  Ahmose,  an  admiral,  which 
is  noted  for  its  long  inscription  recording  the  life  and  deeds  of  the 
deceased,  more  especially  his  share  in  the  war  of  liberation  against 
the  Hyksos. 

The  tomb  cmiiprises  a  rectangular  chamber,  with  vaulted  ceiling,  and 
another  room  (right),  with  the  mummy-shaft.  Main  Room.  On  the  Rvjhl 
Wall  appears  the  deceased  with  staff  and  sceptre,  accompanied  by  the 
painter  Peheri,  his  grandson,  who  constructed  the  tomb.  In  front  is  the 
above-mentioned  inscription,  continued  on  the  entrance-wall.  The  designs 
on  the  Left  Wall  are  unfinished ;  the  red  lines  to  assist  the  draughtsmen 
may  still  be  noticed.  The  Hear  Wall  is  much  damaged;  to  the  right  we 
see  the  deceased  and  his  v^ife  at  table,  to  the  left,  the  relatives  in  rows. 

The  tomb  of  Reni,  nomarch  of  El-Kab  and  high-priest  at  the 
beginning  of  the  18th  Dyn.,  .still  farther  to  the  left  (W.),  contains 
representations  resembling  those  in  the  tomb  of  Peheri  (p.  335), 
but  not  so  skilfully  executed. 

On  the  Left  Wall  are  harvest-scenes;  the  deceased  superintends  the 
counting  of  the  stock  in  his  district;  close  by  are  a  herd  of  swine,  animals 


to  Aasuan.  KOM  EL-AHMAK.  21.  Route.    337 

which  were  much  appreciated  in  El-Kab,  in  cuutradistinction  to  the  rest 
nf  Egypt  (comp.  p.  390);  the  deceased  and  his  wife  at  table,  with  their 
relatives  seated  opposite.  On  the  Right  Wall,  the  funeral  and  accompany- 
ing ceremonies.  In  the  Rear  Wall  is  a  recess  wilh  a  seated  statue  of  the 
deceased,  now  quite  destroyed. 

The  last  three  tombs  farther  to  the  left  (W.)  appear  to  date  from 
a  period  before  the  New  Empire. 

One  of  these  belongs  to  a  man  and  his  wife  Ah-sofrd,  a  lady  attached 
to  the  royal  harem.  Another  (with  a  vaulted  ceiling)  belonged  to  Bebi 
and  his  wife  Sebek-nakht,  who  also  was  a  lady  of  the  harem.  The  third 
consists  of  a  vaulted  chamber  with  a  tastefully  adorned  ceilins  and  a  room 
with  the  shaft.     It  dates  from  the  reign  of  Sebek-hotep  II.  (13th  Dyn.). 

A  little  to  the  W.  of  the  hill  of  tombs  stood  a  small  Temple  of 
Thiitmosis  III.,  now  destroyed. 

On  the  W.  bank  opposite  El-Kab,  about  '/o  ^I-  from  the  river, 
lies  the  village  of  Muissdt  (Mo'isdt),  and  farther  on,  about  3  M.  from 
the  river,  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  rises  the  — 

Kom  el-Ahmar  (Red  Hill'},  with  the  extensive  ruins  and  tombs 
of  Hierakonpolis. 

Hierakonpolis  (Egypt.  Xekhen)  was  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in 
ihe  country  and  in  prehistoric  times  the  capital,  along  with  El-Kab,  of 
Upper  Egypt.  Its  god  was  a  Horus,  to  whom  the  falcon  was  sacred,  whence 
arose  the  (ireek  name  Hierakonpolis  ('city  of  falcons').  A  little  to  the  N., 
beyond  a  broad  desert  route,  is  a  second  mass  of  ruins,  amongst  which 
is  a  large  Fori,  probably  da!ing  from  the  Ancient  Empire,  with  a  low 
liuter  wall  and  a  higher  inner  wall  <if  unburnt  bricks.  On  the  E.  side  is 
the  gate,  lu  the  adjoining:  cultivated  land  lay  the  Temple  of  Nekhen,  in 
which  Quibell  discovered  in  1897-98  some  important  sculptures  of  the 
period  of  the  earlie.-<t  kings,  besides  others  of  later  date,  including  the 
copper  statue  of  I'hiops  I.  mentioned  on  p.  83.  —  To  the  W.  is  a  hill 
with  tombs  of  the  Ancient  and  Middle  Empires,  one  without  inscriptions 
and  two  with  designs  and  inscriptions  upon  stucco.  —  About  '/<  lir.  farther 
to  the  W..  also  on  the  hill  of  Kom  el-Alimar,  are  eight  rock-tombs,  dating 
from  the  beginning  of  the  New  Empire,  of  which  only  the  first  to  the 
right  or  X.  (Thvti,  of  the  time  of  Thutmosis  I.)  and  the  first  to  the  left 
OP  S.  {Harmose,  high-priest  of  Xekhen)  repay  a  visit.  The  structure  of 
these  tombs  resembles  that  of  the  tombs  at  El-KSb.  At  the  inner  end  of 
each  is  a  recess  with  a  statue  of  the  deceased  and  his  wife.  In  the  tomb 
of  Harmose  dancing-girls  are  painted  upon  stucco. 

Beyond  El-Ma\iamid  the  Raii,w.\y  traverses  the  desert.  In  the 
distance  to  the  right  the  pylon-towers  of  Edfu  come  into  sight. 

66  M.  Edfu.  The  town  and  temple  lie  on  the  W.  bank  (p.  343  J. 
Visitors  ferry  across  the  river  in  small  boats  in  1/4  hr.  (2  pias.)  from 
beside  the  station  and  are  met  by  donkeys  on  the  opposite  bank, 
though  the  temple  is  within  '/•>  hr.'s  walk. 

Beyond  (Tf)  M.)  Es-Sirdg  the  line  hugs  the  river  for  some  time, 
passing  below  the  rocks  that  are  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  a  late- 
Byzantine  fortress  (p.  348).  ^  841/2  -^1-  Sihreh  (Selvah,  p.  348). 

Near  the  village  of  Bl-Kosh  ( EC-Jloch),  beside  the  Gebel  Abu 
Shega,  on  the  W.  hank,  are  a  number  of  quarries.  From  masons' 
marks  and  Greek  insi-riptions  in  these  we  learn  that  sandstone 
blocks  were  quarried  here  in  the  11th  year  of  Antoninus  Pius 
( 149  A.D.)  for  a  temple  of  Apollo  {i.e.  Horus,  perhaps  at  Edfu ). 


338    Route  21.  SILSILEH.  From  Luxor 

On  the  W.  bank,  '/4  hr.  above  El-H6sh  and  about  ^/4hr.  below 
Silsileh,  is  a  gorge  known  as  Shatt  er-]Eliga.leh  ('Shore  of  the  Men', 
or  es-snb'a  rigaleh,  'the  seven  men'),  which  was  perhaps  the  starting- 
point  for  an  ancient  caravan-route  through  the  desert.  On  the  left 
side  of  a  cliff  here,  a  few  paces  from  the  river-bank,  is  a  most 
interesting  Relief  representing  the  homage  of  an  inferior  king  Entef 
before  King  Neb-hepet-re  Mentuhotep  III.  (11th  Dyn.)  and  before 
the  king's  mother  Yoh.  Behind  Entef  is  an  official  named  Kheti.  On 
the  same  cliff-face,  farther  up  in  the  valley,  occur  representations 
and  inscriptions  from  the  Middle  Empire  and  the  beginning  of  the 
New  Empire.  —  On  the  W.  bank  to  the  S.  of  Shatt  er-Kigaleh  ;iru 
other  rock-inscriptions  and  quarries. 

89  M.  Kagug  (El-Kagog).  On  the  river-bank,  about  2  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  the  station,  lie  the  extensive  Quarries  of  Silsileh,  worked 
especially  under  the  New  Empire.  The  largest  quarry  is  closed  by  a 
gate,  which  the  keeper  will  open.  In  the  reign  of  Ramses  11.  no  fewer 
than  3000  workmen  were  employed  here  for  the  Ramesseum  alone. 
An  Inscription  of  Amenophis  HI.  records  the  transport  of  stones  by 
the  Nile  for  a  temple  of  Ptah.  There  are  two  Posts  of  the  time  of 
Sethosl. ,  Demotic  Inscriptions  from  Itoman  times,  and  an  unfinished 
colossal  Spltinr  (near  the  river-bank).  —  At  the  N.  end  of  the  quar- 
ries are  found  the  scanty  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  Khenit  and  its 
temple  (fragmentary  inscriptions  of  Ramses  II.).  To  the  E. ,  towards 
the  top  of  the  rock,  is  a  stele  of  Amenophis  IV.,  recording  that 
Amenophis  caused  an  obelisk  for  the  temple  of  the  sun  at  Karnak 
to  be  quarried  here. 

To  visit  the  more  important  monuments,  situated  on  tlie  W. 
bank,  we  ferry  to  the  steamboat  landing-place,  whence  we  turn  to 
the  N.  The  well-beaten  track  skirts  the  river,  passing  a  number  of 
small  tomb-like  recesses  (cenotaphs)  and  memorial  tablets.  Beyond 
some  quarries  we  reach  the  — 

*Rock  Chapel (5peo.5;  unlocked  by  the  keeper),  which  was  hewn 
in  the  rock  under  Haremheb,  last  king  of  the  J  8th  Dyn.,  and  in  the 
following  centuries  was  embellished  with  inscriptions  and  reliefs  of 
great  artistic  as  well  as  historical  value  in  honour  of  kings  and  high 
officials.  In  front  are  five  doorways,  separated  from  each  other  by 
pillars  (PI.  a-d)  at  varying  distances,  and  crowned  with  the  torus 
and  concave  cornice.  We  enter  by  the  middle  door,  on  the  lintel  of 
which  are  chiselled  the  sun-disk  and  the  names  of  Haremheb.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  wide  but  shallow  vaulted  hall  (PI.  A)^  at  the 
back  of  which  is  an  oblong  room  (PL  /?).  All  the  walls  are  covered 
with  carving  and  inscriptions. 

On  the  S.  Wall  (PI./)  is  a  fine  relief  of  a  goddess  oHering  the  breast 
to  King  Haremheb,  while  Khnum  stands  behind  her  and  Amon-Re  behind 
the  kins:. 

On  the  Rear  Wall,  at  PI.  1,  to  our  left  as  we  enter,  is  a  "Relief  of 
King  Haremheb  returning  in  triumph  from  his  campaign  in  Ethiopia.  The 
Pharaoh  is  seated  on  his  throne,  which  is  borne  by  12  soldiers  adorned 
with  feathers.    Behind  and  before  him  are  soldiers  with  the  long-handled 


tn  Assuan. 


SII-SILEH. 


21.  Ronle.    339 


flabelluui.  A  priest  precedes  the  litter,  offering  incense,  willi  a  train  of 
captured  Ethiopians  and  three  rows  of  soldiers  (amon;;  wliuai  is  a  trum- 
peter). To  the  left  the  kin^  and  Ammon  stand  upon  prostrate  negroes. 
Beneath  the  main  scene  is  a  recess,  to  the  left  of  which  are  negro  pris- 
oners, and  to  the  rifjht  Egyptian  soldiers  marching  oil'  captives.  Note 
the  tree  style  of  the  attitudes  of  the  barbarians,  which  is  quite  without 
the  usu;il  stillness  of  Egyptian  drawing.  Poetic  inscriptions  above  both  re- 
liefs extol  the  king  as  the  conqueror  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kush  (Ethiopia): 
'Plail  to  thee.  King  of  Egypt  I'  'Thy  name  is  extolled  in  the  land  ot  the 
Ethiopians",  etc.  —  To  the  right  in  this  wall  is  a  recess  (Pi-  2)  with  the 
ligure  in  high-relief  (full-face)  of  Khai,  an  oflicial  under  Ramses  II.  — 
PI.  3.  Above,  inscription  with  a  representation  of  King  Siptah  bringing 
(lowers  to  Anion,  while  his  official  liai  holds  the  flahellum  behind; 
lieliiw.  King  llareinheb  shooting  arrows  against  an  enemy.  —  PI.  4.  Jlemorial 
tablet  of  the  2nd  year  of  .4uienephthes  :  the  king  ollering  an  image  of  Maat, 
goddess  of  truth,  to  Amon-Re  and  Mut;  behind  the  king  are  <iueen 
Eset-nolret,  with  a  sistrum,  and  the  vizier  Penehsi,  with  a  flahellum.  — 
PI.  5  (recess).  Figure  in  high-relief  of  a  man  holding  his  left  hand  before 
his  breast.  —  PI.  6.    Tablet  placed  by  Khamweset,  son  of  Ramses  II.,  in 


memory  of  the  fourth  jubilee  of  Ramses  II.  —  PI.  7  (to  the  right  of  the 
door).  Similar  inscription  of  Khamweset.  —  PI.  8.  Small  relief  of  a  man 
named  Moi,  in  prayer.  —  PI.  9  (in  a  recess).  Large  ligure,  in  high-relief, 
of  Prince  Khamweset.  —  PI.  10.  Defaced  relief  of  Khamweset  receiving 
otl'erings.  —  PI.  11.  Tablet,  erected  by  the  fan -bearer  Jloi,  in  memory 
of  the  jubilees  of  Ramses  II.;  to  the  left  is  the  kneeling  figure  of  Moi; 
above  is  Eamses  II.  presenting  an  image  of  Maat  to  Amon,  Harakhte, 
Maat,  Ptah,  and  Sobek,  the  local  deity  of  Silsileh.  —  PI.  12.  Relief  of  a 
vizier,  beneath  which  is  a  dainty  little  representation  of  a  column  with 
a  palm-capital.  —  PI.  13.  Memorial  tablet  of  the  A.'jth  year  of  Ramses  II., 
dedicated  by  a  high  official,  who  appears  kneeling  below,  with  a  flahellum; 
above,  the  king  presents  an  image  of  Maat  to  Amon,  the  great  Mut, 
Khons,  Harakhte,  and  Sobek  (bead  injured).  — PI.  14.    Three  men  praying. 

On  the  iV.  Weill  (PI.  A)  is  a  recess  with  six  figures  in  high-relief.  On 
the  E.  Wall,  at  PI.  i,  and  on  the  Entrance  Pillars  are  numerous  memorial 
inscriptions. 

In  the  Doorway  (PI.  g)  from  the  first  chamber  (o  the  second  (B)  are 
representations  of  King  Haremheb  sacrificing  to  Harakhte  and  the  goddess 
Ews-os  of  Hcliopolis  (on  the  left)  and  to  Amon  and  Mut  (on  the  right).  — 
On  the  side-walls  of  Boom  B  are  representations  of  the  gods;  in  the  rear 
wall  is  a  recess  (PI.  *)  with  the  much  damaged  ligure  of  Amon  seated  in 
the  midst  of  six  other  gods. 


340    Route  21.  SIL8ILEH.  From  Luxor 

The  route  goes  on  to  the  S.  from  the  Rook  Chapel,  sometimes 
skirting  the  rivor-bank,  sometimes  leading  through  the  ancient 
quarries,  which  were  probably  exhausted  during  the  lioman  period. 
It  passes  a  number  of  rock -inscriptions  and  chapel -like  recesses 
(cenotaphs). 

We  first  reach  a  rock  facing  the  river,  with  three  Afemorial  Infcriptions 
upon  it:  to  the  left,  llamses  HI.  before  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons;  in  the 
middle,  Shoshenk  I.  (erecter  of  the  tablet)  conducted  by  the  goddess  Mut 
before  Amon,  Harakbte,  and  Ptah,  while  behind  the  king  is  his  son, 
Yewpet ,  high -priest  of  Amon-RS  and  general- in -chief;  to  the  right, 
Ramses  IX.,  worshipping  Amon,  Mut,  Khons,  and  Sobek. 

Farther  on  is  a  Cenotaph  Recess  with  a  painted  ceiling,  on  the  left 
door-jamb  of  which  is  the  praying  figure  of  Thutmosis,  scribe  of  the 
treasure-house.  Another  Jiecess,  with  a  ceiling  finely  painted  with  spiral 
patterns  etc.,  has  the  cartouches  of  Thutmosis  III.  and  of  Hatshepsut 
(destroyed)  on  the  lintel. 

Farther  to  the  S.,  close  to  the  river,  are  three  Cenotaph  Recesses  side  by 
side.  The  northernmost  of  these  belonged  ti>  Nekht-Jlin,  royal  scribe  and 
overseer  of  the  granaries  of  Upper  and  Lower  Ezypt;  on  the  left  wall  is 
a  line  relief  showin;,'  the  defeased  and  a  companion  at  table;  on  the  rear 
wall  are  three  seated  figures.  —  Another  Tomb  Recess,  belonging  to  Amen- 
emhet,  priest  of  Amon,  has  fine  reliefs  and  well-preserved  colouring; 
in  the  rear  wall  appears  the  deceased,  to  whom  attendants  bring  food  and 
drink,  and  on  the  side-walls  are  the  deceased  and  his  wife  Mimi,  etc. 

After  skirting  the  bxishy  river-bank  for  about  V4hr.  we  reach  the 
South  Monuments,  offering  a  picturesque  appearance  as  seen  from 
the  Nile.  The  chief  of  these  are  two  Recesses  (  cenotaphs)  about  G  ft. 
deep,  which  lie  close  beside  each  other.  The  architraves  over  the 
entrances  are  adorned  with  concave  cornices  and  Uraeus-serpents 
and  are  borne  by  clustered  columns.  That  to  the  N.  (right)  was  con- 
structed by  Ainenephthes  ( Merenptah ),  in  the  first  year  of  his  reign ; 
it  represents  the  king  sacrificing  to  Havakhte,  Ptah,  and  the  Nile- 
god  (on  the  right),  and  to  Amon,  Mut,  and  Khons  (oti  the  left). 
Beneath  is  a  lonii;  hymn  to  the  Nile  and  lists  of  offerings  to  be  made 
to  the  river-god.  On  each  of  the  narrow  side-walls  are  injured 
reliefs  of  the  king  sacrificing  to  the  gods.  —  The  scenes  in  the  S. 
recess  are  repetitions  of  these,  except  that  Anienephthes  is  replaced 
by  Ramses  II.,  who  constructed  the  recess  in  the  first  year  of  his 
reign.  —  On  the  rock  between  these  rece-ses  is  a  door-shaped  Stele, 
on  which  King  Ainenephthes  is  shown  presenting  a  figure  of  the 
goddess  of  truth  to  Amon ;  the  king  is  followed  by  a  prince  and  by 
the  vizier  Penehsi,  wlio  erected  tliis  stele  to  his  master.  —  Farther 
to  the  S.  is  another  <SJeJe,  on  which  Amenephthes  sacrifices  to  Amon, 
while  behind  him  is  Roi,  high-priest  of  Amon,  who  dedicated  this 
monument. 

On  a  curious  isolated  sandstone  rock,  to  the  right,  is  a  Stele  of 
the  6th  year  of  liamses  III.,  showing  the  king  sacrificing  to  Amon, 
Harakhte,  and  the  god  of  the  Nile.  On  the  same  rock,  to  the  left, 
appears  a  priest  revering  the  names  of  Sethos  I.  —  Farther  to  the  S., 
and  at  a  lower  level  than  those  steles ,  is  another  and  much  ruined 
recess,  dating  from  the  reign  of  Sethos  I.  On  the  river-bank  are 
traces  of  an  ancient  flight  of  steps  descending  to  the  stream. 


to  Assxdn.  KOM  OMBO.  21.  Route,   341 

A  wider  curve  thTOugh  the  desert  carries  the  railway  past  the 
river-deflle  of  Silsileh.  The  train  then  again  approaches  the  river  and 
traverses  a  district  wliirh  has  only  lately  been  brought  under  fultiva- 
tion'(see  below). 

1021/2  M.  Kom  Ombo  (Hot.  Kom  Ombo,  at  the  station,  the  pro- 
perty of  the  undermentioned  company,  pens.  40-50  pias.,  good)  is 
a  recently  founded  village,  with  the  headquarter.*  of  the  Egyptian 
company  of  the  Domaine  du  Wadi  Kom  Ombo.  On  the  bank  of  the 
Nile  are  the  large  puniping-works  of  the  lompany,  conspiruous  for 
miles  around  by  their  tall  chimney,  by  which  tlie  waters  of  the  Nile 
are  raised  to  a  height  of  about  80  ft.  and  used  on  land  that  has 
hitherto  been  absolutely  barren.  Nearly  23,000  acres  have  already 
been  brought  under  cultivation,  and  when  all  the  new  machinery  is 
at  work  it  is  estimated  that  31,000  acres  can  be  laid  tinder  water. 
The  pumpinii-works  are  connected  by  a  trolley-line  with  the  railway 
station,  wliere  a  factory  dcal.s  with  the  sugar-cane  raised  in  the 
reclaimed  area.  —  The  Temple  of  Kom  Omho  (p.  349)  may  be 
reached  in  1/2  hr.  on  donkey-back  [5  pia.*.  with  bakshi.sh  of  3  pias,). 
—  The  train  next  traverses  a  reclaimed  district,  iater.sected  by  em- 
bankments and  oanals. 

107  M.  Daraw  (Darau)  n  large  village  with  13,515  inhab.  and 
several  mosques,  marks  the  boundary  between  the  Arabic  and  Nubian 
languages.  Fans,  baskets,  and  other  Nubian  articles  may  be  pur- 
chased here  very  cheaply. 

The  line  approaches  the  river  and  passes  fine  groves  of  palms 
as  it  traverses  the  granite  district  of  Assuan.  —  1221/2  M.  El-Khat- 
tdra.  On  the  left  bank  appears  the  hill  of  tombs  (p.  358),  with  the 
picturesque  grave  of  a  sheikh.  In  the  Nile  here  is  the  large  island 
of  £aftr?/- (p.  352).  —  130  M.  Gezlreh  {Gezeireh,  p.  362),  the  station 
for  the  N.  part  of  Assuan.  —  Passing  the  camp  of  the  Bisharin  Arabs 
(p.  356)  and  traversing  the  old  Arab  cemeteries  we  reach  — 

132  M.  Assuan  (p.  353). 

22.  From  Luxor  to  Edfu  by  the  Nile. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  241. 
65  M.  TouKiST  Steamer,  up  in  10,  down  in  7  hrs.   —   Steamer  of  the 
Corapagnie  des  Bateaux-Omnibus  from  Luxor  to  Esneh,  see  p.  252. 

Lux-or,  see  p.  251.  —  The  picturesque  forms  of  the  Arabian 
side  of  the  Nile  remain  long  in  view,  the  colossi  of  Memnon  being 
the  last  of  the  ruins  to  disappear.  On  the  W.  bank  is  Metis,  with  a 
steam-pump.  Sugar-cane  fields  occupy  the  W.  bank.  A  large  is- 
land is  passed.  —  In  ca.  2  hrs.  the  steamer  reaches  — 

91/2  M.   (W.  bank  )  Erment  (Armani;  railway  station,    p.  332). 

The  Nile  describes  a  wide  curve.  —  On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  a 
large  island,  rises  (^181/2  M.)  the  long  ridge  of  Uehelein  (p.  333).  — 
Farther  on,  on  the  same  bank,  is  El-Matd'neh  (rail,  station,  p.  333). 


342    Route  22.  ESNEH.  From  Luxor 

The  river-banks  are  picturesquely  claii  with  extensive  groves  of 
palms,  but  the  smoking  chimneys  of  the  sugar-factories  interfere 
with  the  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  steamer  passes  the  Barrage  of 
Esneh  by  means  of  a  lock  (262  ft.  long)  next  the  W.  bank.  The  bar- 
rage was  constructed  in  1906-9  by  Messrs.  John  Aird  &  Co.  (p.  372) 
at  a  cost  of  £E  1,000,000.  It  is  955  yds.  long,  20  ft.  broad  at  the 
top,  and  rises  30  it.  above  the  Nile  at  its  lowest.  Its  120  sluices 
are  intended  mainly  to  regulate  the  irrigation  of  the  province  of 
Keneh.    On  both  banks  of  the  river  are  large  canals  with  slui(;es. 

36  M.  (W.  bank)  Esneh,  or  Ema  (^Neri)  Orand  Hotel,  modest,  K. 
8  pias.,  on  the  river-bank  ),  is  also  a  railway  station  (p.  333;  steam- 
boat to  Luxor,  see  p.  252).  Esneh,  which  in  antiquity  adjoined  the 
town  oi  Enit,  was  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  Upper  Egypt. 
Its  Egyptian  name  was  Te-snet,  whence  came  tlie  Coptic  Sne  and 
the  Arabic  Esneh.  The  Greeks  called  it  Latopolis,  after  the  latoi, 
a  kind  of  fish  venerated  here.  Esneh  is  now  a  district-capital  with 
19,103  inhab.,  and  has  post  and  telegraph  offices,  a  druggist's  shop, 
and  numerous  coffee-houses.  The  Mud1r7yeh,  Post  Office,  Tribunal 
Somrnaire  (^with  the  telegraph  office),  and  other  public  buildings 
stand  in  the  street  skirting  the  Nile.  On  the  old  quay,  near  the 
mudiriyeh,  are  some  fragmentary  inscriptions  and  the  remains  of  a 
nilometer  of  the  Roman  imperial  epoch.  A  road  leading  to  the  right 
from  the  river-bank  brings  us  to  the  cliief  object  of  interest,  still  to 
a  large  extent  buried  in  de'bris,  viz.  the  — 

*Templb  of  Khnum,  the  ram-headed  local  deity,  associated  with 
whom  were  Neith  (identified  by  the  Greeks  with  Athena)  and  Satet. 
The  extant  edifices  were  built  in  the  Ptolemaic  period  and  extended 
and  embellished  with  inscriptions  and  reliefs  by  various  Roman 
emperors.  The  fagade,  120  ft.  wide  and  50  ft.  high,  is  turned  towards 
the  E.  and  is  crowned  by  a  concave  cornice,  in  which  stand  the 
names  of  Claudius  and  Vespasian.  On  the  architrave  below,  on  each 
side  of  the  winged  sun-disk,  are  the  votive  inscriptions  of  these  em- 
perors. Vespasian  is  referred  to  as  lord  of  'Rome  the  capital'.  The 
vestibule,  which  belongs  almost  entirely  to  the  Roman  imperial 
epoch,  is  the  only  portion  that  has  been  excavated  as  far  as  the  pave- 
ment. It  corresponds  in  arrangement  to  the  pronaos  of  the  temple 
of  Hathor  at  Dendera  (p.  246) ;  it  is  108  ft.  broad  and  54  ft.  deep. 
The  roof,  which  is  embellished  with  astronomical  representations, 
is  borne  by  24  columns  (in  4  rows),  with  elaborate  floral  capitals 
and  decorated  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions.  Each  column  is  37  ft. 
high  and  173/4  ft.  in  circumference;  the  first  six  are  connected  by 
stone  screens.  —  The  walls  are  covered  with  four  rows  of  representa- 
tions, showing  emperors  in  the  costume  of  the  Pharaohs  before  the 
various  gods  of  Esneh.  In  the  middle  of  the  Rear  Wall(W.^  a  por- 
tal (now  built  up),  resembling  a  pylon  and  crowned  with  a  concave 
cornice,  gave  access  to  the  inner  parts  of  the  temple.  The  reliefs  and 
inscriptions  upon  it  date  from  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  VI.  Philometor. 


to  Edfu.  EDFU.  22.  Rule.   343 

On  each  side  is  a  smaller  door  (^built  up);  to  the  right  of  that  on 
the  left  appears  Decius  sacrificing  to  the  ram-headed  Khnum.  — 
Towards  the  foot  of  the  iV.  Wall  is  a  relief  of  the  falcon  -  headed 
Horus,  the  Emperor  Commodus,  and  Khnum  drawiiiisr  a  net  full  of 
water-fowl  and  fishes;  to  the  left  stands  the  ihis-headed  Thout,  to 
the  right  the  goddess  Seshet.  —  Adjoining  the  E.  Wall,  at  the  screen 
immediately  to  the  left  of  the  entrance,  a  small  chapel  has  been 
added.  —  Inscriptions  and  representations  were  placed  also  on  the 
Outer  Walls  by  the  Roman  emperors. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Esneh  are  the  remains  of  seTeral  Coptic  Con- 
vents AND  CuuKCHES.  About  3'A  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  Convent  0/  SS.  Manaos 
and  Sanulios,  which  is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Empress  Helena. 
It  possesses  a  new  and  an  old  church,  the  latter  containing  some  ancient 
frescoes,  now  covered  with  whitewash.  —  About  5'/z  Jl.  to  the  N.  is  the 
Deir  Anba  Matteos,  or  convent  of  St.  Matthew,  with  interesting  frescoes; 
and  V2  M.  to  the  W.  is  an  ancient  Church  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  also 
with  frescoes. 

The  village  of  El-Hilleh  (El-Hella),  on  the  E.  bank  opposite 
Esneh,  stands  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Contra- Latopolis.  The 
temple,  dating  from  the  later  Ptolemies,  has  left  not  a  trace  behind. 
—  In  the  Nile  is  the  cultivated  island  of  Er-Riklyeh;  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  river  lies  the  village  of  Es-Sibd'yeh  (rail,  station,  on 
the  E.  bank,  p.  333). 

At  El-Kanndn,  on  the  W.  bank,  there  are  ancient  river-embank- 
ments. On  the  W.  bank  stretches  a  broad  and  fertile  plain,  on  the 
E.  is  the  finely  shaped  Gebel  Sheroneh.  In  the  river  is  another  large 
island.  —  At  El-Khawi  (El-Khewa),  on  the  E.  bank,  appears  the 
first  sandstone. 

On  the  W.  bank,  about  3/4  lir.  farther  to  the  S. ,  near  the  village 
of  Basallyeh  (El-Basalia),  is  the  pyramid  of  El-Kula,  which  now 
presents  the  aspect  of  a  step-pyramid,  owing  to  the  decay  of  the 
filling -in  material.  This  pyramid  is  still  about  30  ft.  high,  while 
its  base  occupies  an  area  of  about  350  square  yards. 

On  the  E.  bank  lie  El-Mahaintd  (rail,  station,  p.  333)  and 
(44  M.)  El-Kdb,  with  its  ruined  town  and  rock-tombs  (p.  333). 

65  M.  Edfu. 

Edfu. 

The  Tourist  Steamers  spend  a  night  here  on  their  upward  journey.  The 
PMiliBay  Station  (p.  337)  is  opposite  the  town,  on  the  E.  bank. 

Primitive  and  yet  somewhat  expensive  quarters  are  offered  by  the 
small  'Hotel',  which  is  kept  by  a  Greek  (bargain  advisable).  —  Donkeys 
are  to  be  had  at  the  landing-place. 

Edfa,  a  district-capital  with  14,900  inhab.  (including  the  sub- 
urbs), was  called  in  antiquity  That,  Coptic  Atho,  whence  is  derived 
the  modern  Arabic  name  Edfu.  The  Greeks  called  it  Great  Apollo- 
nopolis,  after  its  chief  god  Horus- Apollo.  It  was  the  capital  of  the 
second  nome  of  Upper  Egypt,  the  Apollonopolites  of  Gneco-Roman 
times.  Uorus,  who,  according  to  the  myth,  here  waged  one  of  his 
great  combats  with  Seth  (comp.  pp.  cxliii,  236),  was  suruamed  'he 

Babdekeu's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  22 


344    Route  22.  EDFU.  Temple 

of  Behtet',  Behtet  being  probably  a  district  of  ancient  Edfu ;  he  was 
represented  as  a  flying  falcon,  as  a  man  with  a  falcon's  head,  or  as 
the  sun  with  outspread  wings. 

The  way  from  the  landing-place  to  the  (20  min.)  Temple  of 
Horus  leads  almost  due  W.,  then,  turning  to  the  N.  (right),  skirts 
the  Canal  of  Edfu  and  crosses  it  by  a  bridge.  It  then  proceeds  to 
the  W.  through  several  streets  and  finally  turns  N.  again  for  a  short 
distance.  —  The  bridle-path  ends  at  the  N.  gate  of  the  later  girdle- 
wall.    Route  from  the  railway  station  of  Edfu,  see  p.  337. 

The  **Temple  of  Horus,  built  of  sandstone,  stands  in  wonderful, 
almost  perfect  preservation,  exceeding  that  of  any  other  Egyptian 
temple  or  even  of  any  antique  building  in  the  world,  in  spite  of  the 
2000  years  that  have  passed  over  it.  Unfortunately  the  faces  of  the 
kings  and  gods  in  the  reliefs  all  over  the  temple  were  scratched  out 
in  the  Christian  period.  The  present  temple  occupies  the  site  of  an 
earlier  sanctuary  and  was  dedicated  to  the  sun-god  Horus,  Hathor  of 
Dendera,  and  the  youthful  Horus.  'Uniter  of  the  Two  Lands'  (Har- 
gem-tewe,  Harsomtus).  The  history  of  its  construction  and  a  de- 
scription of  the  entire  structure  are  detailed  in  lengthy  inscriptions 
on  the  exterior  of  the  girdle-wall  (at  PI.  i  and  fc).  The  temple  proper 
was  begun  in  237  B.C.  by  Ptolemy  III.  Euergetes  I.  and  com- 
pleted, so  far  as  the  masonry  was  concerned,  by  his  successor 
Philopator  in  212  B.C.  The  decoration  of  the  walls  with  reliefs 
and  inscriptions ,  postponed  by  the  death  of  Philopator  and  the 
disturbed  reign  of  Epiphanes  his  successor ,  was  resumed  in 
176  B.C.  under  Philometor  and  completed  in  147  B.C.  (under  Euer- 
getes II.),  i.e.  90  years  after  the  laying  of  the  foundation-stone. 
Euergetes  II.  built  the  great  vestibule  (completed  122  B.C.)  and 
embellished  it  with  reliefs,  and  under  Ptolemy  X.  Soter  II.  and 
Ptolemy  XI.  Alexander  I.  the  colonnaded  court,  the  girdle -wall, 
and  the  pylon  were  added,  though  the  reliefs  on  the  latter  date  from 
Neos  Dionysos.    The  final  touch  was  given  in  57  B.C. 

The  temple  was  originally  surrounded  by  a  lofty  Brick  Wall^ 
still  partly  preserved,  pierced  by  a  large  gateway  on  the  S.,  in  the 
axis  of  the  temple,  and  by  a  smaller  gateway  to  the  W. 

The  great  Pylon  stood  in  an  inner  girdle-wall  of  brick,  aud  its 
entrance  was  closed  by  a  double  door.  It  is  covered  on  all  sides 
with  reliefs  and  inscriptions.  On  the  front  of  each  of  the  towers 
the  colossal  figure  of  the  King  Neos  Dionysos  is  conspicuous,  smiting 
his  foes,  whom  he  holds  by  the  hair,  in  presence  of  the  falcon- 
headed  Horus  of  Edfu  and  Hathor  of  Dendera.  In  two  rows,  above, 
the  king  appears  praying  and  offering  sacrifices  before  Horus,  before 
Hathor  and  Horus,  'Uniter  of  the  two  lands',  and  before  other  gods 
of  Edfu.  The  four  wide  incisions,  two  on  each  side  of  the  central 
portal,  were  intended  to  support  large  flag-staffs,  which  were  further 
secured  by  means  of  clamps  fastened  in  the  holes  still  to  be  seen 
in  the  masonry  directly  above.     The  small  rectangular  apertures  in 


Girdle     Wall 


W.Tower 


E.To  wer 


jgmfLE  m  HQRjJj§  A\¥  iiry 


rraved  A  printed  by 


Wagnw  *  Debes,  Leipiij 


of  Jioru?.  ET)FU.  22.  Routf.   345 

the  towers  served  to  admit  light  and  air  to  the  chambers  and  stair- 
rases  within  (see  p.  347). 

A  passage  leads  through  each  pylon-tower  to  the  outside  of  the  girdle- 
wall,  which  is  embellished  with  colossal  reliefs  (Ptolemy  XI.  before  the 
gods  of  Kdfu)  and  bears  the  inscriptions  mentioned  at  p.  344.  In  front 
of  the  pylon  stand  two  colossal  falcons  in  dark  granite.  One  has  the 
ligure  of  a  priest  in  Roman  costume  before  it. 

The  Court,  between  the  pylon  and  the  vestibule,  is  a  spacious 
enclosure,  paved  with  broad  flags  and  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  a  covered  colonnade  of  32  columns.  In  this  court  rose  the 
great  altar  upon  which  oflerings  were  made  to  the  gods  of  Edfu 
in  presence  of  the  assembled  people.  The  columns  supporting  the 
roof  of  the  colonnade  are  embellished  with  rich  floral  and  palm 
capitals.  The  incised  reliefs  on  the  shafts  show  the  king  before 
Horus  and  the  other  gods  of  Edfu;  the  name  of  the  king  has  not 
been  inserted  in  the  inscriptions.  On  the  rear  walls  of  the  colon- 
nades are  three  rows  of  large  reliefs,  showing  the  Pharaoh  (Ptolemy 
Soter  II.  or  Ptolemy  Alexander)  in  communion  with  the  gods  or 
triumphing  over  his  foes,  as  the  earthly  representative  of  Horus. 
The  same  representations  occur  over  and  over  again  in  wearisome 
repetition  throughout  the  temple. 

On  the  S.  wall  (PI.  a),  to  the  left  of  the  entrance :  1.  The  king,  wear- 
ing the  crown  of  Lower  Egypt,  quits  his  palace  in  order  to  visit  the 
temple;  a  priest  offers  incense  in  front  of  him.  2.  Horus  and  Thout  pour 
the  water  of  consecration  upon  the  king.  —  These  scenes  are  repeated  tu 
the  right  of  the  entrance  (Pi-  *),  where,  however,  the  king  wears  the 
crown  of  Upper  Egypt. 

The  doors  to  the  right  and  left  of  u  and  b  lead  to  the  staircases 
in  the  interior  of  the  pylon  (ascent,  see  p.  347).  The  E.  and  W. 
exits  (PI.  c)  are  built  up. 

The  back  of  this  court  is  formed  by  the  front  of  the  vestibule, 
which  is  crowned  by  a  concave  cornice.  On  each  side  of  the 
large  portal  are  three  stone  screens  between  the  columns.  Upon 
these,  facing  the  court,  are  reliefs  representing  Euergetes  II.  with 
pendent  arms  or  offering  sacrifice  to  Hathor  of  Dendera  (on  the  two 
central  screens)  or  to  the  falcon -headed  Horus  of  Edfu  (on  the 
others).  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  stands  a  colossal  falcon  with 
the  double  crown ;  the  corresponding  falcon  on  the  right  lies  on 
the  ground. 

The  Vestibule,  or  Pronaos,  has  12  columns  with  elaborate  floral 
capitals.  The  ceiling  is  covered  with  astronomical  representations, 
now  blackened  almost  beyond  recognition.  On  the  walls  are  four 
rows  of  incised  reliefs,  showing  Euergetes  sacrificing  to  the  gods 
and  performing  other  religious  rites ,  such  as  the  ceremonies  at 
the  foundation  of  the  temple,  etc.  Above  are  a  row  of  astronomical 
reprcj-entations  and  a  frieze  consisting  of  the  names  of  the  king 
guarded  by  two  falcons.  Close  to  the  pavement  we  see  Euergetes  and 
his  wife  Cleopatra  and  a  long  procession  of  local  deities  bringing 
sacrificial  gifts  to  the  three  chief  gods  of  Edfu.  —  To  the  right  and 

22* 


346    Route  22.  EDFU.  Temple 

left  of  the  entrance  are  two  small  Chapels.  One  (PI.  d)  is  the  'Con- 
secration Cliambei",  as  is  indicated  by  the  relief  on  the  rear  wall,  re- 
presenting Horus  (r.)  and  Thout  (1.)  pouring  consecrated  water  upon 
the  king.  The  chapel  to  the  right  (PI.  c)  was  the  library;  upon  its 
walls  is  a  catalogue  of  the  books  preserved  here.  On  the  left  wall 
Seshet,  goddess  of  literature,  appears  writing  upon  a  palm-branch. 
—  A  side-door  (PI.  /")  in  the  E.  wall  of  the  hall  admits  to  the  inner 
passage  (p.  347)  round  the  temple.  —  Above  the  door  in  the  N. 
wall  of  the  vestibule  is  a  curious  representation.  Ptolemy  Philo- 
pator  offers  an  image  of  the  goddess  of  truth  to  the  boat  of  the  sun, 
which  appears  guided  by  two  figures  of  the  falcon-headed  Horus  as 
pilot  and  helmsman.  In  the  boat  the  sun  is  adored  by  Thout  (1.)  and 
Neith  (r.).  In  an  attitude  of  worship,  at  the  sides,  are  Four  Senses : 
to  the  right  sight  and  hearing,  to  the  left  taste  and  reason. 

Next  follows  the  Hypostyle  Hall,  the  roof  of  which  is  borne 
by  12  columns  witli  rich  floral  capitals.  Apertures  near  the  top  of 
the  walls  and  in  the  ceiling  admit  light  to  this  hall.  The  represent- 
ations on  the  walls  resemble  those  of  the  preceding  great  vestibule. 
Of  the  adjoining  side-chambers,  two  (PI.  xviii  and  xix)  served  as 
accesses  to  the  inner  passage  round  the  temple,  one  (PI.  xvii)  was  a 
laboratory,  while  from  another  (PI.  xx)  the  great  E.  staircase  led  up 
to  the  roof  of  the  temple  (comp.  p.  347). 

On  each  side  of  the  adjoining  First  Antkchamber  is  an  approach 
to  one  of  the  Staircases  leading  to  the  temple-roof.  The  mural  re- 
liefs on  the  staircases  resemble  the  corresponding  reliefs  at  Den- 
dera  (p.  249).  On  that  on  the  E.  (PI.  xvi)  is  a  procession  of  priests 
ascending,  headed  by  the  king;  on  that  on  the  W.  (PI.  xiv)  is  the 
same  descending.  The  corridors  and  chambers  on  the  roof  contain 
nothing  of  interest,  those  to  the  E.  were  probably  intended  for  the 
cult  of  Osiris.  —  On  the  E.  of  the  Second  Antechambek  we  enter 
a  small  Sacrificial  Court,  in  which  (to  the  N.)  is  an  elegant  little 
Kiosque,  with  two  columns  with  floral  capitals  supporting  the  roof. 
Upon  the  ceiling  is  Nut,  goddess  of  the  sky,  beneath  whom  appear 
various  forms  of  the  sun  in  boats.  —  To  the  left  of  the  Second  An- 
techamber is  a  small  Room  (PI.  xi)  dedicated  to  the  god  Min. 

In  the  Sanctuary  the  most  interesting  Reliefs  are  those  in  the 
lower  row  on  the  right  (E.)  wall.  1.  The  king  (Philopator)  removes 
the  lock  from  the  shrine  of  Horus.  2.  He  opens  the  door  of  the 
shrine.  3.  He  stands  in  a  reverential  attitude,  with  pendent  arms, 
before  the  god.  4.  He  offers  incense  to  his  deified  parents,  Euergetes  I. 
and  Berenice.  5.  He  offers  incense  before  the  sacred  boat  of  Hathor, 
By  the  rear  wall  is  a  granite  shiine  (PI.  I),  with  a  pointed  roof, 
dedicated  to  Horus  by  King  Nekht-Har-ehbet.  This  is  a  relic  of 
the  original  pre-PtoIemaic  temple  (p.  344).  In  front  of  the  shrine 
is  a  pedestal  of  dark  granite  (found  in  another  part  of  the  temple), 
intended  to  support  the  sacred  boat  and  indicated  by  an  inscription 
as  the  votive  gift  of  a  private  citizen. 


of  HoruK  EDFU.  2'2.  Route.    347 

The  sanctuary  is  surrounded  by  a  Co&ridok  from  which  ten  small 
Side  Chambers  (PI.  i-x)  open.  These,  used  for  various  religious  rites  and 
for  store-rooms,  are  adorned  with  reliefs  and  are  faintly  lighted  by  boles 
in  the  roof.  In  the  flooring  of  each  of  the  corner-rooms  (PI.  iii  and  viii) 
is  the  entrance  to  a  crypt,  formerly  closed  by  a  stone  slab. 

Wo  return  to  the  hypostyle  hall  and  pass  through  Room  xix 
to  the  Inner  Passage  between  the  exterior  of  the  temple  proper 
HUil  the  interior  of  the  girdle-wall.  On  the  outside  of  the  temple 
walls  are  lions"  heads  as  water-spouts  and  four  rows  of  religious 
reliefs.  At  the  foot  of  the  wall  appear  the  king,  the  queen,  and 
a  procession  of  local  deities  approaching  the  three  chief  gods  of 
Edfu.  On  the  inner  side  of  the  E.  girdle-wall  (PI.  hh)  the  king  ap- 
pears before  the  various  gods  of  Edfu ;  on  the  N.  wall  (PI.  gg)  are 
similar  scenes  and  long  hymns  to  the  god  of  Edfu.  On  the  W. 
wall  (PI.  mm)  are  more  important  reliefs  representing  the  contests 
of  the  god  Horns  with  his  enemies,  who  are  depicted  as  crocodiles 
and  hippopotami. 

The  chief  are  the  following:  1st  Scene  (below,  to  the  right).  The  king, 
standing  on  shore,  attempts  to  translix  a  hippopotamus,  which  bends  its 
head  aside.  Ilorus  does  the  same :  in  his  left  hand  he  holds  a  chain,  and 
in  his  right  a  javelin;  beside  him  is  his  mother  Isis,  and  behind,  at  the 
helm,  is  a  small  Horus.  —  2nd  Scene.  The  king  appears  on  land  (to  the  left), 
before  two  ships,  in  each  of  which  are  a  Horus  and  an  assistant.  Horus 
holds  the  hippopotamus  with  a  chain  and  pierces  its  head  with  a  javelin.  — 
5th  Scene.  The  hippopotamus  lies  on  its  back,  with  a  chain  fastened  to 
its  hind-feet.  —  7th  SceM.  Horus,  in  a  ship  with  expanded  sail,  aims  a 
blow  at  the  head  of  a  hippopotamus,  the  hind-foot  of  which  is  caught  in 
a  line  held  in  the  god's  left  hand.  Isis  kneeling  in  the  bow  of  the  boat 
holds  the  head  of  the  animal  by  a  cord.  The  king,  standing  on  the  bank 
with  two  attendants,  seeks  to  pierce  the  skull  of  the  hippopotamus.  — 
Farther  to  the  left  (opposite  the  pylon):  The  king,  the  ram-headed  Khnum, 
the  falcon-headed  Horus,  and  the  ibis-headed  Thout  are  dragging  a  net, 
in  which  are  not  only  water-fowl,  fishes,  and  a  stag,  but  also  two  Asiatics 
and  some  negroes,  the  ancestral  foes  of  Egypt. 

A  subterranean  staircase  leads  from  the  E.  part  of  the  passage 
round  the  temple  to  an  ancient  isUometer,  a  round  well  situated 
outside  the  temple,  and  encircled  by  a  spiral  staircase  which  was 
formerly  also  reached  from  without.  On  the  walls  of  the  latter  is  the 
scale,  with  demotic  numbers.  The  subterranean  communication  with 
the  river  has  been  interrupted. 

Finally,  an  *Ascent  to  thk  Top  of  the  Pylon  is  recommended. 
The  doors  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Court  (to  the  right  and  left  of  PI.  n 
and  b)  lead  into  dark  chambers,  from  each  of  which  an  easy  staircase 
of  242  steps  in  14  flights  ascends  to  the  platforms  of  the  towers. 
Doors  on  the  landings  of  the  staircase  admit  to  small  chambers, 
constructed  in  the  solid  masonry  and  lighted,  like  the  staircases,  by 
means  of  small  window-openings  (see  pp.  344,  345).  The  stair- 
cases in  the  two  towers  are  connected  with  each  other  by  a  pass- 
age running  above  the  central  portal;  and  in  each  tower  there  is  a 
door  affording  access  to  the  roof  of  the  colonnade  in  the  court.  On 
the  roof  of  the  W.  colonnade  are  the  workmen's  drawings  for  th(! 
concave  cornice  of  the  pylon.   The  view  from  the  top  is  unusually 


348    Route  22.  EDFU. 

attractive,  commanding  not  only  the  most  imposing  survey  of  the 
temple-buildings,  but  also  ranging  over  the  plain  through  which 
the  Nile  flows,  with  its  verdant  crops  and  its  villages  fringed  with 
palms  and  mimosas,  framed  by  the  desert-mountains  in  the  distance. 
The  Birth  House  lies  to  the  W.  of  the  entrance  to  the  great 
temple  of  Horus.  It  was  built  by  Ptolemy  IX.  Euergetes  II.,  while 
the  interior  decorations  date  from  Soter  II.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
colonnade,  supported  by  pillars  bearing  figures  of  Bes  (comp.  p.  250). 
Besides  the  main  chamber  there  is  a  vestibule  adjoined  by  two 
small  rooms.  A  staircase  leads  to  the  right  from  the  vestibule  to 
the  roof. 

Main  Chamber.  On  the  right  wall:  Hathor  of  Dendera  nurses  Uorns, 
while  seven  other  Hathors  play  musical  instruments.  Behind  the  goddess 
is  her  youthful  son  Ehi-wer,  with  a  sistrum.  To  the  right  is  the  con- 
linement  of  Hathor,  to  the  left  the  king  holding  two  sistra,  in  presence 
of  seven  other  Hathors.  The  king  before  various  deities  and  (left)  before 
the  sacred  boat  of  Hathor.  On  the  left  wall  are  scenes  referring  to  the 
birth  of  Harsomtus  (Khnum  shaping  the  child  on  the  potter's  wheel,  etc.). 

The  Court  in  front  of  the  Birth  House  was  enclosed  with  columns 
connected  by  stone  screens.  On  the  shafts  of  the  columns  are  gods 
with  musical  instruments. 


23.  From  Edfu  to  Assnan  by  the  Nile. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  244. 

68  M.  Steamboat  to  Gebel  Silsileh  In  4  hrs. ;  thence  to  Kom  Omho  in 
3  hrs. ;  and  thence  to  Assuan  in  6  hrs. 

Edfu,  see  p.  343.  —  On  the  E.  bank,  about  5  M.  above  Edfu,  is 
the  village  of  Redesiyeh  (El-Redesia,  Rodsieh),  after  which  a  Temple 
of  Sethos  /.,  lying  37  M.  to  the  E.,  has  been  named  (see  p.  376).  — 
Farther  along  the  E.  bank  (12  M.  from  Edfu),  on  the  mountain- 
slopes  approaching  close  to  the  river  near  the  hill  Es-Sirdg,  are 
the  picturesque  remains  of  a  late -Byzantine  fortified  town  (per- 
haps the  ancient  Thmuis),  with  a  church  or  convent.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  ancient  quarries  with  inscriptions  (one  of  Thut- 
mosis  III.).  The  nuramulite  limestone  of  the  hills  here  gives  place 
to  sandstone  (comp.  p.  Ixix),  which  has  furnished  the  material  for 
most  of  the  gigantic  buildings  of  Upper  Egypt. 

I8V2  M.  (E.  bank)  Silweh  (rail,  station,  p.  337). 

26  M.  Gebel  Silsileh  ('Mountain  of  the  Chain' ;  so  called  from  a 
chain  that  is  said  once  to  have  blocked  the  passage  of  the  river). 
The  hills  on  the  two  banks  of  the  river  approach  close  together,  and 
in  very  ancient  times  there  were  probably  rapids  at  this  point  (like 
those  at  Assuan,  p.  363).  These  were  regarded  as  the  beginning 
of  the  Nile,  and  even  in  later  periods  the  Nile-god  Harpi  enjoyed 
special  reverence  at  Silsileh,  where  great  festivals  were  held  in  his 
honour. 


KOM  OMBO.  23.  Route.  349 

Above  the  defile  of  Gebel  Silsileh  the  landscape  changes  its 
character.  The  mountains  recede  from  the  river,  giving  space  to 
the  desert,  which  appears  grey  on  the  Arabian  side  and  yellow  on 
the  Libyan  side.  The  narrow  cultivable  strip  is  tilled  by  peasants  of 
a  distinctly  darker  complexion  than  the  fellahin  of  the  Thebaid. 
Both  land  and  people  approach  gradually  nearer  to  the  Nubian  type. 

On  the  E.  bank  lies  AklU.  —  At  the  village  of  Momha  (E.  bank ) 
we  enter  the  E.  branch  of  the  stream ,  which  here  encircles  the 
island  of  Man.idr'iyeh,  with  a  village  of  the  same  name. 

On  the  E.  bank  are  the  large  pumping-works  of  the  Kom  Ombo 
Co.  (p.  341).  On  a  hill  and  conspicuous  from  a  considerable 
distance  appear  the  ruins  of  the  beautiful  temple  of  K6m  Ombo, 
especially  picturesque  by  the  light  of  the  full  moon.  The  islands 
opposite  the  E.  bank  were,  perhaps,  in  former  times  united  with  the 
mainland,  or  separated  from  it  only  by  a  narrow  channel;  but  in  the 
course  of  centuries  the  Nile  has  gradually  extended  its  channel 
farther  and  farther  to  the  E. ;  and  during  the  19th  cent,  alone  about 
20  ft.  were  washed  away  from  the  E.  bank,  along  with  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  building.  An  embankment  has  been  constructed  to 
prevent  further  mischief. 

4IV2  M.  Kom  Ombo  (railway  station,  see  p.  341 ),  the  'Hill  of 
Ombos',  lies  about  50  ft.  above  the  average  surface-level  of  the  Nile. 
The  ancient  Egyptian  city  of  Ombos  probably  owes  its  foundation  to 
the  strategic  importance  of  its  site,  upon  a  hill  commanding  both 
the  Nile  and  the  routes  from  Nubia  to  the  Nile  valley.  Yet  the  town 
attained  no  great  prosperity  until  the  Ptolemaic  era,  when  it  was 
converted  from  an  ordinary  provincial  town  into  the  capital  of  the 
separate  nome  of  Ombites.  It  was  at  this  era  that  the  mighty  temples 
were  built,  which  excite  our  admiration  to-day ;  the  earlier  sanc- 
tuaries have  left  scarcely  a  trace.  Ombos  possessed  two  chief  gods  — 
the  crocodile-headed  SobekfSuchos)  and  the  falcon-headed  Haroerh. 
With  the  former  were  specially  associated  Hathor  and  the  youthful 
uioon-god  Khons-Hor ;  with  the  latter,  the  'Good  Sister'  [T-seni- 
nofret,  a  special  form  of  Ilathor)  and  the  'Lord  of  Both  Lands' 
(I'-neb-tewe).  The  ruins  of  the  town,  now  buried  in  sand,  lie  in 
the  N.E.  corner  of  the  plateau.  In  1893  all  the  temple-buildings 
in  the  S.  part  of  the  plateau  were  cleared  of  rubbish  and  restored 
under  the  directions  of  Do,  Morgan.  A  marble  tablet  on  the  right 
door  of  the  vestibule  (p.  351)  commemorates  the  fact. 

From  the  landing-place,  to  the  S.  of  the  hill,  a  road  skirts  the 
river  to  (5  min.)  a  modern  flight  of  steps,  which  ascends  to  the 
principal  entrance.   Tickets  of  admission  should  not  be  forgotten. 

The  temple -precincts  were  enclosed  by  a  brick  girdle -wall. 
The  entrance  is  formed  by  a  massive  Pylon,  erected  by  Ptolemy 
Neos  Dionysos.  Only  the  right  (E.)  half  is  now  standing;  the 
other  has  sunk  in  the  river.  The  reliefs  show  Neos  Dionysos  pre- 
senting various  oflerings  to  the  gods  of  Ombos.    We  enter  the  — 


350    Route  23.  KOM  OMBO.  From  Edfu 

*Great  Temple  of  Sobek  andHaroeris.  This  temple  was  built  on 
a  uniform  plan  in  the  Ptolemaic  period  and  embellished  with  re- 
liefs by  Philometor,  Euergetes  II.,  and  Neos  Dionysos.  The  reliefs 
in  the  court  and  on  the  outer  walls,  however,  were  added  under  the 
Roman  emperors,  more  especially  under  Tiberius.  The  Ptolemaic 
reliefs  are  easily  distinguished  from  those  of  the  emperors,  as  they 
are  in  low  relief  while  the  latter  are  'en  creui'.  In  its  general 
arrangements  the  temple  of  Ombos  resembles  other  temples  of  the 
same  period  (^at  Dendera,  Edfu,  and  Philae),  but  it  differs  from 
them  in  being  dedicated  to  two  deities  instead  of  to  one  only.  Each 
of  these  two  deities  had  his  own  special  worship  and  festivals,  so 
the  entire  building  is  bisected  longitudinally  by  an  imaginary  line, 
each  half  having  its  own  gateways,  doorways,  and  chapels.  The  S. 
or  right  half  was  dedicated  to  Sobek,  the  N.  or  left  half  to  Haroeris. 

The  Pylon,  at  the  entrance  to  the  temple-court,  had  two  doors. 
The  left  wing  has  completely  vanished ;  while  only  the  lower  part 
of  the  central  pillar  (between  the  doors)  and  of  the  right  wing 
remain. 

On  Ihe  outer  side  (facing  the  i-iver)  of  the  right  wing  are  the  follow- 
ing representations,  from  left  to  right;  PI.  a.  Sobek,  Hathor,  and  Khons- 
Hor,  the  gods  worshipped  in  the  right  half  of  the  temple.  PI.  b.  Hiero- 
glyphic text  of  52  lines.  PI.  c.  Emp.  Domitian,  with  the  crown  of  Upper 
Egypt,  accompanied  by  14  gods  and  goddesses,  otTering  gifts  to  the  above 
mentioned  deities. 

At  the  corner  to  the  right  (above  PI.  c)  the  upper  row  of  representations 
also  has  been  preserved:  six  demi-gods  (the  last  three,  the 'Souls  of  Hiera- 
konpoHs',  with  dogs'  heads)  carry  the  newly  crowned  king  (defaced)  to 
his    palace,    on   a   portable    throne;    they   are   followed  by   the    symbols 

"¥"  ('life')  and        ('happiness'),  bearing  images  of  the  gods  on  long  poles; 

finally  a  large  figure  of  the  king,  preceded  by  a  priest  otTering  incense  and 
followed  by  his  guardian-spirit  (with  a  king's  head  upon  a  sceptre). 

The  Court,  as  at  Edfu,  was  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  colon- 
nades. Only  the  lower  portions  of  the  16  columns  are  now  left. 
The  reliefs  on  these,  the  colouring  of  which  is  in  places  admirably 
preserved,  represent  Tiberius  sacrificing  to  the  gods.  On  the  inner 
side  of  the  right  wing  of  the  pylon  are  two  doors,  one  of  which 
(PI.  d}  admits  to  a  small  apartment,  while  the  other  (PI.  e)  leads  to 
a  staircase  by  which  the  roof  of  the  pylon  was  gained.  The  square 
base  in  the  centre  of  the  court  was  probably  an  altar;  let  into  the 
ground  beside  it  are  two  small  granite  troughs.  In  this,  as  in  all 
the  other  rooms  of  the  temple,  the  ancient  pavement  is  in  excellent 
preservation.  The  rear  of  the  court  is  separated  from  the  adjoining 
pronaos  by  stone  screens,  which  are  pierced  by  two  large  portals 
and  two  smaller  doorways.  On  the  screen  to  the  right  (PI.  f)  is  a 
relief  of  the  falcon-headed  Horus  and  the  ibis-headed  Thout  pour- 
ing the  water  of  consecration  upon  King  Neos  Dionysos,  to  the  left  of 
whom  is  the  crocodile-headed  Sobek,  the  lord  of  the  right  half  of 
the  temple.    On  the  left  screen  (PI.  g)  the  same  scene  takes  place 


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to  A3sudn.  ROM  OMBO.  I'S.  Route.   351 

before  the  falcon -headed  Haroeris,  to  whom  the  left  half  of  the 
temple  is  dedicated.  The  screens  are  crowned  by  a  row  of  serpents, 
with  sun-disks  on  their  heads. 

The  Vestibule,  or  Pronaos,  contains  10  columns  with  rich  floral 
and  palm  capitals.  On  the  shafts  appears  Neos  Dionysos  sacrificing 
to  the  gods.  The  ceiling  of  the  two  main  aisles  is  embellished  with 
flying  vultures  ;  while  the  under  side  of  the  architraves  supporting 
this  ceiling  bears  astronomical  designs  (star-gods  in  their  boats,  etc.). 
We  may  observe  the  lines  dividing  the  surface  into  squares  to  guide 
the  artist  in  drawing  the  figures,  and  also  some  older  sketches  that 
were  not  carried  to  completion.  The  mural  reliefs  here  are  espe- 
cially beautiful,  the  finest  being  that  to  the  right  of  the  N.  portal 
(on  screen  h).  We  here  see  the  king  (Neos  Dionysos) ,  in  pre- 
sence of  Haroeris  (to  the  right),  being  blessed  by  a  lion-headed  Isis 
and  the  falcon-headed  Harsiesis,  on  the  right,  and  by  the  goddess 
Nut  and  the  ibis-headed  Thout,  on  the  left. 

The  remaining  mural  reliefs  may  be  inspected  by  those  who  are  not 
pressed  for  time.  On  Screen  i:  the  guardian -goddesses  of  Upper  and 
Lower  Egypt  blessing  the  king  (Neos  Dionysos);  to  the  left  stand  the  cro- 
rodile-headed  Sobek  and  his  companion  Hathor.  —  To  the  left,  above 
Ihe  small  Door  k:  Neos  Dionysns  sacrificing  to  four  fabulous  monsters 
(including  a  winged  lion  with  four  heads);  the  animals  have  been  scratched 
ont.  —  Opposite,  on  Wall  I,  are  three  rows.  Bottom  Row  :  to  the  right  are 
Energetes  II.  and  Cleopatra  (upper  parts  wanting)  in  presence  of  Sobek 
and  his  fellow-gods  Hathor  and  P-neb-tewe;  in  the  middle,  the  king  before 
the  falcon-headed  Haroeris  and  the  'good  sister';  to  the  left  Euergefes 
presents  the  temple  of  Ombos  to  Sobek  and  Hathor.  Middle  Row:  to  the 
right  the  king  (wanting)  sacrifices  to  Osiris  enthroned,  Isis  (before  whom 
is  her  youthful  son),  and  Nephthys ;  in  the  middle  Euergetes  presents  flowers 
to  the  earth-god  Keb  and  Ihe  sky-goddess  Nut ;  to  the  left  Euergetes  offers 
two  jars  of  wine  to  Show  and  the  lion-headed  Tefnut.  Top  Row:  to  the 
right,  the  king  (wanting)  l)efore  Haroeris,  the  'good  sister",  and  P-neb-tewe; 
in  the  middle  he  offers  an  ornament  to  Sobek  and  Khons-Hor;  to  the  left 
Euergetes  oflers  milk  to  Sobek  and  Hathor.  —  On  Walt  m,  to  the  left  of 
the  left  entrance  to  the  next  room,  are  three  rows  of  similar  scenes. 

The  Hyposttle  Hall  is  entered  by  two  doors.  Its  ceiling, 
which  was  lower  than  that  of  the  pronaos,  was  supported  by 
10  columns  with  floral  capitals.  On  each  shaft  Euergetes  II.  is 
shown  sacrificing  to  a  god ;  the  mural  reliefs  show  lum  in  communion 
with  the  gods.  The  relief  on  the  left  (N.)  wall  should  be  noticed : 
the  falcon  -  headed  Haroeris  presents  the  curved  sword  to  Euer- 
getes II.,  behind  whom  are  his  sister  Cleopatra  and  his  wife  of  the 
same  name.  The  sacred  crocodile  of  Ombos  is  represented  at  PI.  «, 
between  the  doors  leading  from  the  pronaos. 

Between  the  doors  leading  hence  fo  the  inner  rooms  of  the  temple  are 
reliefs  showing  Philometor,  elder  brother  of  Euergetes  II.,  sacrificing  to 
the  falcon-headed  Haroeris. 

The  following  three  smaller  Antechambers,  each  of  which  lies 
a  little  higher  than  the  preceding,  also  are  embellished  with  fine 
reliefs.  Adjoining  are  a  number  of  side-chambers,  whioh  may  have 
been  used  as  store-rooms;  those  to  the  left  (N.)  have  almost  com- 
pletely disappeared.    On  the  rear  wall  of  Antechamber  III,  between 


352   Route  'J3.  KOM  OMBO. 

tlie  doors,  is  a  fine  relief:  Philometor,  clad  in  a  white  luautle  ami 
accompanied  by  Cleopatra,  stands  before  the  falcon-headed  moon- 
god  Khons,  who  writes  the  name  of  the  king  upon  a  palm-branch, 
from  which  hangs  the  symbol  for  length  of  life;  behind  are  Sobek 
and  Haroeris,  the  chief  gods  of  Ombos. 

Two  doors  lead  from  Antechamber  III  to  the  two  Sanctuaeies,  of 
which  that  to  the  left  (PI.  /?)  was  dedicated  to  Haroeris,  that  to  the 
right  (PI.  S)  to  Sobek.  In  each  is  a  pedestal  of  black  granite  on  which 
the  sacred  boat  with  the  image  of  the  god  was  placed.  Beside  and 
behind  these  sanctuaries  are  smaller  apartments  with  crypts. 

Two  small  side-doors  lead  from  the  pronaos  to  an  Inner  Pass- 
age round  the  temple  proper,  at  the  innermost  part  of  which  are 
seven  doors  opening  into  as  many  Chambers  (PI.  I-VIl).  These 
contain  unlinished  reliefs  and  inscriptions,  which  are  interesting 
on  account  of  their  various  stages  of  completion.  la  the  central 
room  (PI.  IV)  is  a  staircase  to  the  upper  story. 

On  the  terrace  in  front  of  the  great  temple  lies  a  small  Sirth 
House,  facing  towards  the  S.E.,  and  now  in  a  most  ruinous  con- 
dition. It  was  built  or  restored  by  Euergetes  II.  Among  the  extant 
reliefs  one  (at  PI.  o)  deserves  notice.  It  represents  Euergetes  II. 
with  two  gods  sailing  in  a  boat  through  the  marshes ,  which  are 
bordered  with  papyrus-plants  thronged  with  birds;  to  the  left  is  the 
ithyphallio  god  Min-Amon-Ue.  —  On  the  S.  side  is  a  subter- 
ranean staircase  (PI.  p)  leading  to  the  river,  on  the  bank  of  which 
is  a  nilometer  (much  damaged),  like  that  at  Edfu. 

Finally  we  visit  the  small  unfinished  Chapel  of  Hathor,  built 
of  red  sandstone  under  the  Emp.  Domitian.  In  one  of  its  rooms 
are  mummies  of  sacred  crocodiles  found  in  the  vicinity. 

The  terrace  in  front  of  the  temple  commands  a  beautiful  *View 
of  the  Nile  and  the  districts  on  the  W.  bank,  while  from  the  rubbish- 
mounds  beside  the  temple  we  may  survey  the  new  irrigated  region 
beside  Kom  Ombo,  the  villages  of  Shatb  and  Daraw,  the  island  of 
Mansuriyeh,  and  the  desert  to  the  W. 

Above  Kom  Ombo  the  channel  of  the  river  narrows.  —  Daraw 
a  railway  station  (p.  341),  lies  on  the  E.  bank.  —  On  the  W.  bank, 
near  Rakdbeh,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Contra-Ombos. 

The  scenery  becomes  tamer  beyond  the  village  of  Kubdnhjeh,  on 
the  W.  bank,  near  which  are  early-Egyptian  cemeteries. 

Opposite  rises  the  Gebel  el-Hammdm,  with  quarries  which 
yielded  stone  for  the  old  temple  at  Ombos  as  early  as  the  reign  of 
Hatshepsut  (18th  Dyn.).  To  the  W.  the  yellow  sand  of  the  desert 
often  extends  right  down  to  the  river.  At  Et-Khattdra  (railway 
station,  p.  341)  granite  appears  for  the  first  time. 

We  now  pass  the  large  and  well-tilled  island  of  Bahrif(j^.  362), 
with  its  palm-groves  and  fields.  Opposite,  near  El-Wdresdb,  on  the 
W.  bank,  are  some  quarries  (with  graffiti). 

As  we  approach  Assuan  (E.  bank)  the  scene  presented  to  us  is 


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L.g.  *p..  fe.,.-o^  W., 


ASSUAN.  24.  Route.    353 

one  of  great  and  pecnliar  beanty.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  is  the 
Kubbet  el-Hawa  fp.  360) ;  straight  in  front  of  us  lies  the  N.  extrem- 
ity of  the  island  of  Elephantine  (p.  35~),  with  the  Savoy  Hotel. 
Sandstone  now  gives  place  to  masses  of  granite  on  the  banks  and 
in  the  channel  of  the  stream.  On  the  left  are  the  harbour,  the 
Roman  Catholic  church,  and  the  hotels  at  — 
68  M.  Assti'tn. 


24.  Assuan  and  its  Environs. 

The  Tourist  Steamers  usually  remain  here  two  days.  —  Railway,  see 
R.  21 ;  the  station  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  town. 

Hotels  (prices  highest  in  .Tan.  and  Feb.).  ■Savoy  Hotel  (V\.  a),  on 
the  island  of  Elephantine  fsteam-launch,  see  p.  357),  with  a  large  and  well- 
kept  garden,  pens,  from  SO  pias.;  'Cataeaut  Hotel  (PI.  h),  opposite  Ele- 
])hantine,  with  lawn-trnnis  courts,  pens,  from  80  pias. ;  "Geand- Hotel 
Assouan  (PI.  c),  on  the  quay,  pens,  from  CO  pias.  These  three  all  belong 
to  the  Upper  Egypt  Hotel  Co.;  the  first  two,  with  lifts  and  central  heating, 
are  open  in  winter  only  (comp.  p.  xxii).  —  St.  James  Hotel  (PI.  d),  on  the 
([uay,  pens.  40-60  pias.,  open  in  winter  only,  Hot. -Pens.  Rohrmosek  (PI.  e), 
on  the  quay,  pens.  40  50  pias.,  both  less  pretentious  but  good.  —  Ohezireh 
Palace  Hotel,  on  the  Nile  to  the  N.  of  the  town.  pens.  40-60  pias.,  new.  — 
Khedivial  Hotel,  Post  Hotel,  both  unpretending.  —  Pension  Neufeld 
(Gorman),  pens.  50  pias.,  with  the  depcndance  Bab  el-Wadi  Camp,  in  the 
desert  21/4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town  (p.  362;  donkey,  8  pias.  and  bakshish 
2  pias.),  open  Nov. -April  for  suO'erers  from  kidney-disease  and  rheuma- 
tism, pens.  (incl.  medical  attendance)  60-80  pias.  --  Assuan  Camp  Hotel,  in 
the  desert  '/^  M-  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town,  near  the  golf-club  and  the  hamlet 
of  Rami  el-Khad:b,  pens.  50-70,  oran.  10  pias. 

Carriages,  Camels,  Donkeys,  and  Boats,  all  at  lixed  tariffs,  which  may 
be  seen  at  the  stands  and  in  the  railway  time-table  (dearer  if  hired  through 
a  hotel). 

Post  &  Telegraph  Office  on  the  river-bank.  —  Bank.  Agency  of  the 
Nationnl  Bank  of  Egypt,  Shriri'  el-Bahr  (p.  3.55).  —  Tourist  Offices.  CooVt 
Office,  in  the  Grand-Hotel  Assouan;  Hamburg  tk  Anglo-American  Nile  Co., 
Shari'  el-Bahr  (p.  355) ;  office  of  the  Sddrrn  Government  Railways  and  Steamers, 
at  the  railway  station. 

Photographers  (plates  developed;  also  photographic  materials,  books, 
etc.):  Bisliareen  Bataar  (A.  Sempad;  branch  of  F.  Diemer's  Successors  at  Cairo, 
p.  40);  F.  Fiorillo,  near  the  Grand-Hotel;   iV.  Sigalas,  at  the  Grand-Hotel. 

Physicians.  Dr.  Leigh  Canney  (comp.  p.  xxi>.  Dr.  Neylon,  Dr.  Saunders, 
all  English;  Dr.  Eddy  Schacht,  German.  German  Hospital  for  natives  at  the 
German  Sudan  Pioneer  Mission.  —  Saeoy  Pharmacy,  at  the  Grand -Hotel 
Assouan.  Swedish  Massage,  at  the  Institut  de  Physiothcrapie,  in  the  Shari' 
el-Balir  (electric  light  baths,  sand-baths,  etc.). 

Churches  (hours  of  service  are  notified  in  the  hotels).  Anglican  :  Si. 
Marlc''s  Church  (p.  355),  near  the  Cataract  Hotel.  —  German  Protestant  Church, 
Shari'  el-Bahr   (p.  355).  —  Roman  Catholic  Church,   Shari'  el-Bahr  (p.  356). 

Golf  Links  (9  holes)  near  the  Assuan  Camp  Hotel  (see  above). 

Nubian  and  Sudanese  Articles  are  everywhere  offered  for  sale :  ostrich 
feathers,  silver  rings  and  armlets,  ivory  hoops,  weapons  of  the  dervishes 
(mostly,  however,  manufactured  in  Assuan  or  in  Europe),  amulets,  horns, 
basket  work,  panther-skins  (generally  poor  and  dear),  and  aprons  of  leather 
fringe  adorned  with  beads  and  shells  (the  costume  of  the  women  of  the 
Sudan,  which  they  oddly  call  'Madama  Nubia').  Grey  and  black  ostrich 
feathers  are  comparatively  cheap  (ca.  8  pias.  each),  larger  and  perfect  white 
feathers  cost  40-80  pias.  apiece  and  upward.  Travellers,  however,  will  find 
i'  more  convenient  to  buy  these  in  Cairo.  —  ''ndanese,  Indian,  and  Persiau 
embroideries  are  sold  by  Dhanctmall  Khellaram,  on  the  (juay. 


354    Route  24.  ASSUAN.  History. 

Distribution  of  Time.  )st  Day.  Elephantine  (p.  351)  and  the  Rock  Tombs 
on  the  W.  bank  (p.  358);  in  the  afternoon,  Assudn  and  its  Bazaars,  the 
Bishdrin  Camp  (p.  35B),  and  possibly  also  the  Granite  Quarries  (p.  356). 
Travellers  by  the  tourist-steamers,  which  arrive  in  the  afternoon,  visit 
Elephantine  on  the  same  day.  —  2nd  Day.  Island  of  Philae  (p.  364)  and  the 
Nile  Dam  (p.  371).  —  3rd  Day.  Excursion  to  the  Convent  of  St.  Simeon 
(p.  361;  '/«  day)  or  to  Oezireh  (p.  362),  or  a  ride  into  the  desert.  — Those 
who  have  not  seen  the  Temple  of  Kdm  Ombo  (p.  350)  on  their  Nile  voyage 
may  visit  it  from  Assuan,  if  time  allows.  The  excursion  takes  half  a  day 
if  the  start  is  made  by  the  early  train  and  the  return  by  the  midday  train. 

As8U(1n  or  Aswan  (Gr.  Syene,  Copt.  Suan),  with  12,618  inhab., 
lies  on  the  E.  bank,  partly  on  the  plain  and  partly  on  a  hill,  in  N. 
lat.  24°  6'.  The  fertile  strip  here  is  narrow,  but  supports  numerous 
date-palms,  the  fruit  of  which  enjoys  a  high  reputation.  This  town 
is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Assuan,  the  southernmost  of  Upper 
Kgypt,  which  has  an  area  of  168  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  232,813 
and  extends  to  the  S.  from  Esneh  to  the  boundary  of  the  Anglo- 
Egyptian  Sudan.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  provincial  authorities.  The 
once  considerable  trade  in  the  products  of  the  Sildan  and  Abyssinia 
has  greatly  fallen  off  since  the  Mahdist  revolt,  but  on  the  other 
hand  the  export  trade  in  senna  (folia  Sennae;  comp.  p.  356)  has 
greatly  increased.  The  Nile  here  divides  into  several  arms,  sepa- 
rated by  granite  rocks  and  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  Elephan- 
tine (p.  357).  The  horizon  on  the  W.  is  bounded  by  the  Libyan 
hills,  on  the  E.  by  the  Arabian  mountains.  On  account  of  its  charm- 
ing situation  and  its  equable  and  dry  climate  Assuan  is  much  visited 
as  a  winter  resort,  especially  from  Nov.  to  Feb.  or  even  later.  The 
constellation  of  the  Southern  Cross  is  visible  here  in  Jan.  about 
3  a.m.  and  in  April  about  10  p.m. 

HisTORT.  The  district  around  the  modern  Assuan,  including  the  island 
of  Elephantine,  bore  in  antiquity  the  name  of  Yebu,  or  'Elephant  Land% 
probably  because  the  Egyptians  here  first  saw  the  African  elephant.  At 
a  later  date  that  name  was  restricted  to  the  island  and  town  of  Elephant- 
ine. From  the  erection  of  the  Pyramids  to  the  Roman  period  the  ancient 
Egyptians  found  material  for  their  great  temples  and  statues  in  the  quar- 
ries of  Yebu  (Syene) ,  which  yielded  fine  coloured  granite,  containing  a 
large  proportion  of  translucent  quartz  and  of  yellow,  brownish,  pink,  and 
black  mica.  Curiously  enough,  however,  the  term  'syenite',  which  was 
used  by  Pliny,  is  now  applied  by  geologists  to  a  different  variety  of  stone, 
containing  a  much  larger  proportion  of  hornblende.  Strategically,  Yebu 
commanded  the  Nile  cataracts  and  the  waterways  between  Egypt  and  Nubia. 
It  was  also  the  starting-point  of  the  great  caravan-routes  leading  to  Nubia 
and  the  Sudan,  along  which  passed  the  earliest  commercial  and  military 
expeditions  of  the  Egyptians.  The  ancient  capital  of  the  province  was 
likewise  named  Yebu  and  lay  on  the  S.  side  of  the  island  (p.  358).  The  exis- 
tence here  of  a  Jewish  military  colony,  with  a  temple  of  Jehovah,  in  the 
6th  and  5th  cent.  B.C.  has  been  proved  by  the  discovery  of  a  large  num- 
ber of  Aramaic  papyri  in  1906-8  (now  mostly  in  Berlin). 

Another  town,  named  Swenel,  the  Syene  of  the  Greeks,  was  situated  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  but  appears  not  to  have  attained  any  great  im- 
portance until  a  late  period.  Juvenal^  the  Latin  satiric  poet,  who  lived 
at  the  beginning  of  tlie  2nd  cent,  of  our  era,  was  appointed  prefect  of 
the  garrison  at  Syene,  or,  in  other  words,  was  banished  to  the  most  remote 
frontier  of  the  empire,  as  a  punishment  for  his  biting  attacks  on  the  court. 
A  famous  curiosity  of  ancient  Syene  was  a  well,  into  which  the  sun's  rays 
descended  perpendicularly,  casting  no  shadow,  at  midday  during  the  summer- 


Ptolemaic  Temple.  ASSUAN.  24.  Route.   355 

solstice,  thus  proving  that  Syene  was  situated  under  the  tropic  (which, 
however,  has  now  shifted  somewhat  to  the  S.).  The  report  of  its  existence 
led  the  learned  Athenian  Eratosthenes  (276-196  B.C.),  attached  to  the  Museum 
at  Alexandria  (p.  13),  to  the  discovery  of  the  method  of  measuring  the  si/i' 
of  the  earth  that  is  still  employed.  —  The  place  suffered  greatly  at  the 
hands  of  the  r.lemmyes  (p.  364),  but  became  the  seat  of  a  Christian  bishop, 
and  appears  to  have  rapidly  regained  its  prosperity  under  the  Caliphs. 
Arab  authors  record  that  no  fewer  than  20,000  inhabitants  died  of  the  plague 
at  one  time,  a  fact  that  points  to  a  very  large  total  population.  After  the 
close  of  the  12th  cent.  Assuan  suffered  severely  from  the  incursions  of  plun- 
dering Arab  tribes,  finally  put  a  stop  to  by  a  Turkish  garrison  stationed 
here  by  the  sultan  Selim,  after  the  conquest  of  Egypt  in  irtil. 

The  landing-place  of  the  steamers  lies  on  the  river  opposite  the 
railway  station.  Thence  the  attractive  Shdri'  el-Balir,  or  riverside- 
street,  skirts  the  Nile  to  the  N.,  passing  the  principal  public  build- 
ings, the  Summary  Tribunal,  the  German  Sfldan  Pioneer  Mission, 
the  Grand -Hotel  Assouan  (beside  a  rock  with  inscriptions),  and 
the  Miidiriyeh  or  Government  Buildings.  Opposite  the  last  a  ruined 
building,  for  which  stones  of  earlier  buildings  have  been  used, 
projects  into  the  river.  This,  known  to  the  Arabs  as  El-Hammam 
(the  bath)  and  as  the  Bath  of  Cleopatra,  probably  dates  from  the 
Roman  period  and  seems  to  have  been  a  lock  or  a  tete-de-pont. 
Farther  on  rises  the  lofty  minaret  of  the  chief  mosque,  beside  which 
the  Shari'  el-Mel.ikemeh  diverges  on  the  right  for  the  bazaars ;  then, 
as  we  descend  the  river,  we  pass  the  Police  Office  (Markaz),  the 
National  Bank,  the  St.  James  Hotel,  the  Post  Office,  the  Govern- 
ment Hospital,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  witli  the  school  of 
the  Catholic  Sudan  Mission.  Across  the  river  appears  the  hill  with 
the  rock-tombs  and  the  Kubbet  el-Hawa  (p.  360).  In  the  highly 
picturesque  inner  town  are  the  large  Coptic  church  and  the  Coptic 
school.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  railway  station  the  road  leads  to  a  hill, 
now  laid  out  as  a  public  garden  (view),  with  the  ruins  of  the  so- 
called  A'asr  ei-M«Za (probably  a  convent)  and  a  sheikh's  tomb.  Oppo- 
site, on  the  E.  side  of  the  road,  stands  the  English  Church,  built  in 
1899-1900  from  a  design  by  Mr.  Somers  Clarke  in  the  style  of  a 
Coptic  church,  virith  a  dome.  The  font  is  a  gift  of  Queen  Victoria. 
Farther  on  the  road  reai-hes  the  Cataract  Hotel. 

Among  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  to  the  E.  of  the  station  lies 
a  small  Ptolemaic  Temple  (open  to  holders  of  the  general  admission 
ticket,  p.  200).  Built  by  Euergetes  I.  and  Philopator  but  never  com- 
pleted, the  temple  was  dedicated  to  Isis  of  Syene. 

The  Main  Postal  is  crowned  with  a  concave  cornice.  Le/t  Jamb:  above, 
Euergetes  presenting  an  image  of  Maat  to  Anion;  belr.w,  Euergetes  mak- 
ing a  libation  of  milk  to  a  goddess,  llight  Jamb :  above,  Jiuergetes  before 
Min-Amon,  and  before  Mut  and  Isi?.  Lintel:  Euergetes,  in  one  case  ac- 
companied by  his  wife  Berenice,  before  various  deities.  In  the  Doorway 
to  the  right,  the  king  before  Thout;  to  the  left,  the  kin<^  before  Harsiesis; 
above  is  an  inscription.  —  The  Inteeiob  consists  of  a  hall  with  two  pil- 
lars, in  which  stand  the  bases  of  several  statues  and  sacred  boats,  and  of 
three  chapels,  the  middle  one  of  which  has  on  its  rear  wall  reliefs  show- 
ing Euergetes  (once  accompanied  by  Berenice)  before  the  deities  of  Syene. 

To  the  E.  of  the  Cataract  Hotel,  on  a  granite  rock  below  a  stone  wall 
of  the  Roman  period,  i"!  an  inscription  of  the  reign  of  Amenophis  IV. :  to  the 


356    Route  24  ASSUAN.  QuarrieK 

right  is  3Ien,  'superintendent  of  works',  before  the  figure  of  Amenophis  III.; 
to  the  left  is  Men's  son  Bek,  chief  architect  at  Tell  el-'Amarna  (p.  211), 
before  the  figure  (defaced)  of  Amenophis  IV.,  upon  which  the  sun's  rays 
descend. 

On  the  hill  above  the  Cataract  Hotel  is  Fort  Tagug,  whence  a 
beautiful  view  is  enjoyed ,  especially  towards  evening.  Visitors 
should  prolong  their  walk  along  the  hill,  to  the  S.,  for  the  sake  of 
the  views  of  the  Nile  valley,  the  islands,  and  the  dam,  and  descend, 
to  the  right,  to  the  village  of  El-Mahatta  (p.  363). 

A  ride  (donkey  or  carr.  there  and  back  6  pias.)  may  be  taken  to 
the  Camp  of  the  Bishabin,  situated  within  an  Arab  cemetery,  s/^M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  town.  These  Beduins  with  their  families  live  in 
wretched  tents  covered  with  mats.  Beduins  of  the  'Ababdeh  tribe, 
differing  both  in  type  and  dress  from  the  Bisharin,  also  have  tents 
here.  Both  tribes  speak  a  curious  language,  allied  to  Egyptian  and 
other  E.  African  dialects.  They  support  themselves  by  cattle-rearing 
and  by  trading,  especially  with  senna-leaves,  which  they  collect  in 
the  desert  and  sell  at  good  prices.  —  A  fine  *View  is  commanded 
by  the  I'omb  of  Sheikh  HariXn^  above  the  camp,  to  the  right. 

We  may  return  via  the  ancient  Aeab  Cemeteries,  which  are 
situated  in  the  desert  to  the  S.  of  the  railway.  From  the  railway 
station  these  may  be  reached  via  the  Sharf  esh-Shellal.  Each  grave 
was  marked  by  a  rectangle  of  unhewn  stones  and  a  slab  bearing  an 
inscription.  The  tombs  of  the  richer  dead  are  small  domed  erections. 

On  the  hills  to  the  right  of  the  road  are  some  large  mosque -like 
Cenotaphs  of  famous  saints,  such  as  the  Sheikh  Mahmud,  the  Sheikh 'Ali, 
the  L;idy  (Seiyideh)  Zeinab,  etc.,  whose  memory  is  celebrated  by  festivals 
on  their  birthdays  (mulid),  etc. 

The  Granite  Quarries  (Arab.  Mahagir),  from  which  the  ancient 
Egyptian  builders  and  sculptors  drew  their  supplies  (comp.  p.  364), 
are  situated  in  the  hills  to  the  S.,  and  may  be  reached  in  ^j^  hr.  either 
direct  from  the  Bisharin  camp  or  from  the  town  by  a  route  leading 
via  the  Arab  cemeteries  (see  above)  and  then  to  the  E.,  passing 
a  grove  of  tamarisks.  Numerous  blocks  of  granite  lie  where  they 
were  left  when  the  works  were  given  up ;  e.g.  the  huge  block  (marked 
'Obelisk'  on  the  Map)  in  the  iV.  Quarry,  measuring  92  ft.  in  length 
and  IOY2  ft.  in  breadth  at  the  broadest  part.  A  moderately  lofty 
cliff  shows  manifold  traces  of  the  industry  of  the  ancient  stone- 
cutters. The  blocks  were  detached  from  the  cliffs  by  boring  nu- 
merous holes  along  a  prescribed  line,  driving  wedges  into  these,  and 
then  wetting  the  wedges.  By  this  process  tolerably  smooth  and 
even  fractures  were  obtained.  Frequently  the  blocks  were  finished 
on  three  sides  before  being  finally  detached.  Statues  ,  sarcophagi, 
obelisks,  etc.,  were  also  roughly  dressed  by  the  stone-cutters  in  the 
quarries  in  order  to  lessen  the  weight  for  transport.  The  hill  above 
the  N.  quarry  commands  a  wide  prospect,  including  the  convent  of 
St.  Simeon  (p.  361)  in  a  desert-valley,  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  Nile. 
A  massive  Causeway,  by  which  the  huge  blocks  were  conveyed  to 
the  Nile,  runs  from  the  quarries  to  Assuau  and  is  used  to  this  day. 


Elephantinf.  ASSUAN.  24.  Jlcute.   357 

From  the  N.  quarries  we  follow  the  jast- mentioned  causeway, 
which  first  crosses  the  mountain  (fine  view),  then  descends  into  a 
picturesque  valley,  and  finally  runs  along  on  a  level  to  ('/2  hr.)  the 
S.  Quarry^  which  opens  to  the  E. ,  facing  the  desert.  This  also 
contains  rough -hewn  blocks  ready  for  removal.  On  a  rock  here 
may  be  seen  an  inscription  with  the  name  of  Amenophis  III., 
though  the  name  and  figure  of  the  stone-cutter  who  carved  it  have 
been  obliterated.  Beside  it  two  trough-shaped  sarcophagi  have  been 
begun  (in  the  Ptolemaic  or  in  the  Roman  period);  and  in  the 
vicinity  are  the  unfinished  colossus  of  a  king  (covered,  except  the 
feet,  with  sand),  and  a  large  quadrangular  block,  perhaps  intended 
for  the  shrine  of  a  god.  Farther  on,  near  the  railway,  and  towards 
the  top  of  the  cliff,  is  a  figure  of  Osiris  (called  Ramses  by  the 
natives),  about  20  ft.  in  height.  This  point  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  desert  and  in  the  direction  of  Philae. 

If  we  follow  the  railway-line  we  reach  the  railway  station  of 
Shellal  (p.  .''.63)  in  1/4  hr. 


The  verdant  island  of  Elephantine,  with  its  luxuriant  palm 
trees,  attracts  all  travellers.  The  Arabs  call  it  merely  El-Qezlreh, 
i.e.  'island',  or  Gezlret  Assuiln.  It  is  reached  by  boat  (feliika)  in  a 
few  minutes  from  the  landing-place  (return  fare  2  pias.)  or  by  the 
steam-launch  of  the  Savoy  Hotel  (1  pias. ;  free  to  guests),  and  the 
entire  visit  takes  barely  an  hour.  There  are  two  villages  on  Elephan- 
tine, whose  inhabitants  speak  Nubian.    Begging  is  common. 

By  far  the  most  interesting  object  is  the  *Nilometer  (Milcyds), 
beside  a  sakiyeh  on  the  E.  side  facing  Assuan.  After  more  than  a 
thousand  years  of  neglect  it  was  restored  to  use  in  1870  in  the 
reign  of  Isnja'il,  as  is  recorded  by  French  and  Arabic  inscriptions. 
On  the  walls  of  the  staircase  are  damaged  Greek  inscriptions  of  the 
imperial  epoch,  giving  the  water-levels.  The  scales  date  from  the 
later  imperial  epoch,  and  the  ells  are  marked  in  Greek  (and  also  in 
demotic)  characters.  The  new  scale  is  inscribed  on  marble  tablets. 
—  Strabo's  description  is  not  yet  antiquated :  — 

'The  Nilometer  is  a  well  built  of  regular  hewn  stones,  on  the  bank 
of  the  Nile,  in  which  is  recorded  the  rise  of  (he  stream,  not  only  the 
maximum  but  also  the  minimum  and  average  rise,  for  the  water  in  the 
well  rises  and  falls  with  the  stream.  On  the  side  of  the  well  are  marks, 
measuring  the  height  sufficient  for  the  irrigation  and  the  other  water 
levels.  These  are  observed  and  published  for  general  information.  .  .  . 
This  is  of  importance  to  the  peasants  for  the  management  of  the  water, 
the  embankments,  the  canals,  etc.,  and  to  the  officials  on  account  of  the 
taxes.     For  the  higher  the  rise  of  water,  the  higher  are  the  taxes.' 

At  the  head  of  the  stone  staircase  leading  to  the  nilometer,  in  a 
pretty  garden,  is  the  Assudn  Museum  (open  9-4;  adm.  5  pias.).  It 
contains  an  interesting  collection  of  antiquities,  mostly  from  Lower 
Nubia,  including  tlie  mummy  of  a  ram  from  the  necropolis  (p.  358) 


358    Route  24.  ASSDAN.  Elephantine. 

and  the  mummies  of  a  priest  and  a  priestess  of  Plillae  found  on  th« 
island  of  Hesseh  (p.  387). 

Fartlier  to  the  S.,  opposite  the  Cataract  Hotel,  lies  a  massive 
ancient  Embankment,  many  of  the  blocks  in  which  were  taken  from 
earlier  edifices  and  bear  inscriptions.  The  rock-inscriptions  close 
to  the  stream  should  be  noticed  also. 

The  entire  S.  part  of  the  island  is  covered  with  great  mounds 
of  rubbish  formed  by  the  ruins  of  the  Ancient  Town  of  Elephantine. 
Among  some  brick  walls  a  few  paces  to  the  W.  of  the  quay  we  may 
distinguish  the  foundations  of  a  small  temple ,  constructed  with 
stones  brought  from  earlier  edifices,  including  drums  of  columns 
and  blocks  with  the  cartouches  of  Thutmosis  III.,  Ramses  III., 
and  other  monarchs.  From  an  inscription  on  the  solitary  stump 
of  a  column  now  standing  we  learn  that  Trajan  was  the  builder. 
About  50  paces  to  the  W.  a  granite  portal,  once  the  entrance  to  some 
large  temple,  dominates  all  this  part  of  the  island.  The  reliefs 
upon  it  show  Alexander  II.  (p.  cvii),  sacrificing  to  the  ram-headed 
Khnum  and  other  deities  of  Elephantine.  Inscribed  blocks  and 
sculptured  fragments  lie  scattered  about.  Close  by  is  the  necro- 
polis of  the  sacred  rams,  whose  sarcophagi  are  still  to  be  seen 
(for  the  mummies  comp.  pp.  357,  90).  Various  other  buildings, 
seen  and  described  by  the  French  Expedition,  were  pulled  down 
about  the  beginning  of  the  19th  century.  Among  these  were  temples 
built  by  Amenophis  III.  and  Thutmosis  III. 

The  higher  parts  of  the  island,  especially  a  granite  promontory 
on  the  W.  bank,  command  a  fine  *View  of  the  black  and  brown, 
rough  and  smooth  rocks  of  the  cataract,  among  which  the  Nile  flows. 

The  trip  round  the  island  by  smaU  boat,  which  takes  about  1  hr. 
(fare  for  1-3  pers.,  15  pias.),  is  full  of  interest.  On  an  islet,  about 
550  yds.  to  the  S. ,  not  far  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile,  are 
several  smoothly  polished  and  cylindrical  'pot-holes',  caused  by  the 
action  of  high  water.  —  The  island  between  Elephantine  and  the 
W.  bank,  named  Atrun,  Sirdar  s  Island,  or  Kitchener's  Island,  for- 
merly belonged  to  Lord  Kitchener  and  is  now  the  property  of  the 
government.  It  is  covered  with  palms,  oleanders,  and  pomegranates. 


On  the  W.  bank,  to  the  N.  of  Elephantine,  rises  a  hill,  crowned 
with  the  tomb  of  a  sheikh  (p.  360),  in  which  are  excavated  the 
*Rock  Tombs  of  the  princes  and  grandees  of  Elephantine.  These, 
which  were  opened  in  1885-86  by  Sir  F,  Grenfell  (now  Lord  Gren- 
fell),  date  from  the  close  of  the  Ancient  Empire  and  from  the  Middle 
Empire  and  are  therefore  contemporary  with  the  tombs  at  Beni- 
hasan  (p.  227),  which  they  resemble  both  in  construction  and  de- 
coration. The  more  important  tombs  are  now  kept  closed.  Tickets 
should  not  be  forgotten. 


Roek  Tomls.  ASSUAN.  '24.  RouU:   359 

We  cross  the  river  in  a  small  boat  (_there  and  back,  6  pias.  each 
person).  From  the  landing-place  we  ascend  a  sandy  path,  which 
reaches  the  top  at  Tomb  31.  The  ancient  staircase,  hewn  in  the 
rock  and  consisting  of  two  parallel  flights  of  steps  with  an  inclined 
plane  between  them  np  which  the  sarcophagi  were  drawn,  is  more 
fatiguing.    The  view  from  the  tombs  is  fine. 

We  begin  with  Tomb  No.  25,  belonging  to  Mekhu.  This  dates 
from  the  6th  l)yn . ;  and  both  its  construction  and  decoration  are 
somewhat  crude.  It  contains  18  roughly  worked  columns  in  3  rows. 
Between  two  columns  opposite  the  entrance  is  a  stone  table  with 
three  legs,  which  was  perhaps  used  as  an  altar.  On  the  rear  wall, 
opposite  the  entrance,  is  a  false  door  within  a  recess  approached 
by  steps  and  closed  by  a  stone  screen.  The  representations  on  the 
walls  and  columns  show  the  deceased  receiving  various  votive  gifts. 
To  the  right  of  the  entrance  sacrifices  are  being  made  to  the  de- 
ceased; to  the  left  of  this  are  agricultural  scenes  (ploughing;  har- 
vest; asses  bringing  home  the  harvest).  —  Adjoining  is  Tomb 
No.  20,  belonging  to  Sabni,  son  of  Mekhu.  The  remarkable  entrance 
is  divided  by  a  cross-beam  into  two  parts,  the  lower  of  which  is 
filled  up  with  rubbish.  The  tomb-chamber  contains  14  square  pil- 
lars. The  Rear  Wall  represents  the  deceased  in  a  boat,  accompanied 
by  his  daughters,  hunting  in  the  marshes:  to  the  left  he  appears 
holding  the  throw-stick  in  one  hand  and  the  slain  birds  in  the  other; 
to  the  right  he  appears  harpooning  two  fish  at  a  blow ;  in  the  middle 
is  a  papyrus-thicket  with  birds  hovering  about  it. 

Climbing  up  to  the  right  (N.)  from  this  double  tomb  we  pass 
several  others  (Nos.  27,  29,  30),  which  are  sanded  up,  and  reach  — 

No.  28,  that  of  Heke-yeb  (locked).  In  the  small  chamber  is  a 
representation  of  the  deceased  as  a  negro,  with  a  dark-brown  skin. 
—  Farther  on  is  — 

*No.  31,  the  fine  tomb  of  Si-renpowet,  son  of  Satet-hotep,  and 
a  prince  under  Amenemhet  II.  Beyond  a  narrow  Passage  follow  a 
Hall  with  6  square  pillars  (without  decoration)  and  then  a  Corridor 
with  three  recesses  on  each  side.  Each  of  these  recesses  contains 
a  statue  of  the  deceased  in  the  guise  of  the  Osiris  mummy.  To  the 
left  of  the  first  recess  is  a  figure  of  the  deceased,  followed  by  his 
son.  At  the  end  of  the  corridor  is  a  small  i/nii,  with  four  pillars, 
on  each  of  which  appears  the  deceased.  The  lines  dividing  the  scene 
into  squares  for  the  guidance  of  the  artist  s  hand  may  still  be  seen 
in  several  of  these  designs.  At  the  back  of  this  hall  opens  a  Recess 
with  good  reliefs  and  delicately  executed  hieroglyphics.  On  the 
back-wall  of  the  recess  the  deceased  is  shown  at  table,  with  his  son 
before  him  carrying  flowers ;  on  the  right  wall  the  mother  of  the 
deceased  sits  at  table,  the  deceased  standing  to  the  right;  on  the 
h'it  wall  is  the  deceased  with  his  wife  and  his  son. 

Farther  on  are  the  tombs  of  Ahi  (No.  32),  Khu'i  (sanded  up), 
and  Khunes.    The   first  contains  a  recess  with  a  representation  of 

Bakulkkk's  Kgypt.    7th  KUit.  23 


360   Rou!e  24.  ASSUAN.  Pock  Tombs. 

the  deceased  and  his  wife  seated  at  a  meal  in  an  arbour,  with  their 
son  before  them.  On  the  left  wall  of  the  tomb  of  Khunes  are  inter- 
esting representations  of  Egyptian  craftsmen  :  bakers,  potters,  metal- 
workers beside  a  furnace,  brewers,  leather-workers,  etc.  The  two 
last-named  tombs  were  used  as  dwellings  by  Coptic  monks,  who 
have  added  various  inscriptions.  —  Then  follow  the  tomb  of  Khe- 
nitseio  (sanded  up)  and  the  Tomb  of  Harkhuf,  with  inscriptions  of 
great  historical  importance.  These  inscriptions  appear  outside  the 
tomb,  on  each  side  of  the  entrance,  above  and  beside  figures  of  the 
deceased  (to  the  left,  Harkhuf  leaning  on  a  long  staff  with  his 
son  holding  a  censer  in  front  of  him).  The  inscriptions  form  an 
extract  from  the  biography  of  Ifarkhuf,  recording  especially  four 
successful  trading  expeditions  to  Nubia,  three  of  which  were  made 
in  the  reign  of  Merenre  (6th  Dyn.)  and  one  in  that  of  King  Nefer- 
ke-re  (Phiops  II.),  the  successor  of  Merenre.  Among  the  goods 
brought  back  on  the  fourth  journey  was  a  dwarf. 

.  Adjoining  is  the  small  tomb  of  Pyopi-rakht  (  No.  35;  sanded  up), 
with  important  inscriptions  on  each  side  of  the  doorway.  These 
extol  the  exploits  of  the  deceased  in  the  campaigns  led  by  King 
Nefer-ke-re  (Phiops  II.)  against  Nubia  and  the  Beduins  dwelling  to 
the  E.  of  Egypt.  Farther  on  are  the  grave  of  Senmose  and  finally 
the  interesting  tomb  (*No.  86)  of  Si-renpowet,  son  of  Sat-zeni,  who 
flourished  in  the  reign  of  Sesostris  I.  (I'Jth  Dyn.).  A  doorway  of  fine 
limestone,  with  portraits  of  the  deceased,  admits  to  the  Court.  The 
shafts  of  the  six  pillars,  which  here  supported  the  roof  of  a  colonnade, 
bear  Inscriptions  and  figures  of  the  deceased.  On  the  Back  Wall,  to 
the  left  of  the  door,  is  a  large  figure  of  the  deceased  followed  by  his 
sandal-bearer  and  two  dogs;  cattle  are  being  brought  to  him  (notice 
the  enraged  bulls);  he  appears  in  a  boat  spearing  fish.  To  the  right 
of  the  door  is  a  large  figure  of  the  deceased  followed  by  his  bow- 
bearer,  a  dog,  and  his  three  sons.  Above,  the  deceased  is  shown 
seated  in  a  colonnade,  with  four  women  with  flowers  in  front  of  him; 
below  are  a  woman  and  two  men  gambling.  Within  the  tomb  is  a 
small  Halt,  with  four  pillars.  The  mural  paintings  on  stucco  are 
unfortunately  much  injured.  At  the  foot  of  the  walls  river-scenes  are 
shown  and  on  the  pillars  are  granaries  (with  scribes  registering  the 
amount  of  grain),  brewing,  and  weaving.  A  vaulted  corridor  leads 
hence  to  a  second  Hall  with  pillars  and  a  recess.  —  From  this  tomb 
we  may  descend  to  the  river-bank,  passing  several  small  tombs.  — 
Higher  up  than  the  tombs  are  the  remains  of  a  Coptic  convent. 

The  summit  of  the  hill,  which,  however,  is  not  reached  without 
some  difficulty,  is  crowned  by  the  Kuhhet  el-Haiim,  the  small  tomb 
of  a  sheikh.  It  commands  a  very  fine  view  (especially  by  full 
moon)  of  the  Nile  valley,  the  district  of  the  cataracts,  and  the 
desert.  —  From  this  point  we  may  reach  the  convent  of  St.  Simeon 
in  40  min.,  by  a  route  leading  to  the  S.S.W. 


Convent  of  .<l.  Simeon.     ASSUAN.  2i.  Route.    361 

The  ruined  *Convent  of  St.  Simeon  (Deir  Anba  Sama'an)  is  situ- 
ated on  a  hill  in  the  deseit  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Nile.  Landing 
opposite  the  S.  end  of  Elephantine,  we  follow  a  desert-valley,  passing 
several  rock-tombs,  and  in  20  niin.  reach  our  goal.  Nothing  cer- 
tain is  known  as  to  the  date  of  the  origin  of  the  convent  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  expedition  sent  to  Nubia  by  Saladin  in  1173.  It 
stands  surrounded  by  a  wall,  over  20  ft.  high,  the  lower  part  of 
which  is  built  of  rough  stone,  the  upper  part  of  crude  bricks;  the 
lower  \V.  portion  is  hewn  out  of  the  rock.  The  Main  Building  has 
two  stories.  The  lower  story  contains  a  large  central  vaulted  corri- 
dor, with  cells  opening  off  it  on  each  side.  On  the  W.  wall  of  the 
corridor  is  a  painting  (much  defaced)  of  Christ  enthroned,  with  the 
Archangel  Michael  and  six  Apostles  beside  him.  Each  of  the  small 
cells  contained  six  or  eight  beds,  some  of  which  still  remain.  At 
the  N.W.  angle  is  the  refectory.  The  dilapidated  staircase  is  con- 
tinued in  the  S.  angle  to  the  next  story,  and  thence  to  the  roof.  — 
Below  the  main  building  are  several  rock-hewn  cells  and  a  rock- 
chapel,  with  a  painted  ceiling  and  pictures  of  saints. 

To  the  S.E.  of  the  main  building,  between  it  and  the  girdle 
wall,  is  the  Church,  comprising  nave  and  aisles  and  a  choir  with 
sacristies  on  each  side.  The  roof  was  vaulted  throughout.  In  the 
semi-dome  of  the  choir  is  a  fine  painting  of  Christ  enthroned,  be- 
tween four  angels.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  nave,  opposite  the  choir, 
is  a  domed  recess  with  a  fresco  of  Christ  with  two  angels  bowing 
before  him.  There  are  numerous  Coptii-  inscriptions  in  the  sa- 
cristies. —  A  Coptic  service  (comp.  p.  107)  is  occasionally  held  in 
this  church. 

From  the  convent  we  may  go  along  the  ridge  in  a  S.  direction  to 
C/o  hr.)  two  Hicjii  Cliffs,  one  of  which,  looking  from  the  Cataract 
Hotel  like  a  gigantic  pig,  is  covered  with  inscriptions.  In  10  min. 
more  we  reach  a  hill  of  dark  stone,  which  affords  a  superb  *ViEW 
of  the  cataract  district,  extending  on  the  S.  to  Pbil;e  and  on  the  N.  to 
Geztreh  (p.  341),  A  similar  view  is  obtained  from  the  tomb  of 
Sheikh  Osnian.  —  The  direct  route  from  the  convent  to  the  Nile 
passes  an  extensive  necropolis,  on  a  plateau  strewn  with  dark  stones. 
On  the  river-bank  are  numerous  rock-tombs. 


Another  very  interesting  excursion  may  be  made  through  the 
Western  Desert  to  the  Quarries  to  the  N.  of  the  Convent  of  St.  Simeon 
(there  and  back  2  hrs.).  From  the  Rock  Tombs  (p.  358)  we  first 
follow  the  telegraph-posts  and  then  a  route,  indicated  by  heaps  of 
stones,  which  runs  to  the  N.  to  a  Sandstone  Quarry,  stUl  containing 
the  upper  part  of  an  obelisk  with  a  representation  and  inscription 
of  Sethosl.  We  return  via  the  village  oiGharb-Assuan  (West  Assuan) 
to  the  landing-stage  at  the  Rock  Tombs  (p.  359). 

A  favourite  afteruoon  excursion  leads  to  the  N.  from  the  station 

23* 


362    Route  24.  ASSUAN.  Environs 

of  Oezireh  (p.  341 ;  good  cafe)  to  the  so-called  Alahaater  Hill,  mark- 
ing the  site  of  an  ancient  quartz-quarry,  whence  the  Egyptians 
obtained  the  necessary  material  for  polishing  hard  stone.  Near  the 
hill  to  the  N.  of  this  point  (with  rock-inscriptions  of  various  dates) 
opens  the  Wadi  Abn  Agag  (see  below),  running  thence  to  the  E. 

In  addition  to  the  trip  mentioned  at  p.  358,  pleasant  afternoon 
trips  may  be  made  by  Boat  from  Assuan  to  the  Nile  islands  of  the 
cataract  district  (Seheil,  etc. ;  p.  363),  and  downstream  pastthe  palm 
and  orange  groves  of  (21/0  M.)  Nag'  esh-Shimeh  to  the  (5  M.)  island  of 
Bahr'if.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  latter  (1 V4  M.  farther)  is  a  pavilion 
belonging  to  the  Sheikh  of  Gezireh  (p.  341),  where  visitors  are  ac- 
customed to  brew  the  tea  they  have  brought  with  them. 

In  the  case  of  a  longer  stay  visits  may  be  paid  to  the  highly  pictur- 
esque Valleys  of  the  Arabian  and  Libyan  Desebts,  which  debouch  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Assuan.    These  excursions  are  made  by  camel. 

Short  Excdrsions.  1.  To  the  KhSr  el-Maba,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  ancient 
quarries;  3  hrs.  there  and  back.  —  2.  To  the  E.  by  the  WddiArl)da,s  far 
iis  the  top  of  the  plateau  (views;  the  Gebel  Garra,  see  below,  is  visible 
beyond  the  Nile),  and  back  to  the  N.W.  through  the  Wddi  Abu  Agag  (see 
above),  at  the  exit  from  which  is  the  Bab  el-Wadi  Camp  (p.  353);  >/«  day. 
— '3.  From  the  Kubbet  el-Hawa  (p.  360)  along  the  picturesque  hills  on 
the  W.  bank  to  the  dam  (p.  371);  4  hrs.  The  camels  should  be  sent  on 
the  night  before  to  the  Kubbet  el-Hawa. 

Lonoer  Excursions.  1.  Through  the  Arabian  Desert  to  the  well  of 
Umm  Hebal,  about  25  M.  to  the  S.S.E. ;  4-5  days  there  and  back.  As  the 
way  lies  through  the  territory  of  the  Bisharin  Beduins,  a  member  of  that 
tribe  should  be  selected  as  guide.  From  Shellal  (p.  363)  we  proceed  to  the 
S.E.  through  the  Wddi  Dnera ,  then  follow  the  Wddi  Bavdmram  past  the 
conspicuous  sharp  ridge  of  Gehel  Kurtunos  (1200  ft. ;  on  the  left),  and  in 
11-12  hrs.  (from  Shellal)  reach  the  well  of  El- Muelha,  in  the  wide  and 
pleasant  Wddi  Dim/iid  (Dehmit).  Thence  we  lay  a  S.E.  course  through  the 
Wddi  Umm  Hebal  to  the  (7  hrs.)  well  of  Umm  Hebal.  A  longer  (3  days)  but 
more  picturesque  route  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the  Wadi  Abu  Agag  (see 
above)  or  the  Wadi  Arud  (see  above)  through  the  Wddi  el-HUdi.,  which 
merges  into  the  broad  Wadi  el- Arab  at  an  abandoned  gold-mine;  and  thence 
by  the  winding  Wddi  Umm  Hebal  to  the  (18  hrs.  from  Assuan)  well  of  Umm 
Hebal.  —  2.  Through  the  Libyan  Desert  to  the  (381/2  M.)  uninhabited  Oasif' 
of  Kdrkur  (lOGO  ft. ;  numerous  fossils);  4-5  days  there  and  back.  The  route 
leads  from  the  Kubbet  el-Hawa  (comp.  above)  to  the  W.S.W.  After  about 
21  M.  it  passes  about  23/431.  to  the  left  of  the  conspicuous  Qebel  Garra  (1770  ft.; 
wide  views),  and  after  16  M.  more  it  surmounts  the  hill  of  Gebel  Kdrkur 
(1225  ft.),  behind  which  lies  the  oasis.  Comp.  John  Ball,  Jebel  Garra  and 
the  Oasis  of  Kurkur  (with  maps;  Cairo,  Survey  Department,  1902;  15  pias.). 

Excursion  to  Fhilse  and  the  Nile  Dam. 

Many  travellers  to  Philoe  avail  themselves  (for  the  outward  journey  at 
least)  of  the  Railway  to  Shellal  (71/2  M.  in  V'-j  hr. ;  fares  6,  3,  IV2  pias.).  But 
the  Desert  Rodte  is  preferable  (1  hr.;  donkey  there  and  back  8  pias., 
bakshish  '2  pias. ;  carriages,  see  p.  353),  whether  we  follow  it  throughout  or 
diverge  from  it  to  follow  the  river  for  part  of  the  way.  The  best  way  to 
return  is  to  arrange  to  take  a  boat  from  Philae  to  the  Nile  Dam  (fare  from 
the  station  of  Shellal  to  the  island  and  thence  to  the  dam,  15  pias.  each 
person)  and  have  donkeys  or  a  carriage  to  meet  us  there  for  the  return 
to  El-Khazan  (p.  363).  Or  we  may  go  on  from  the  dam  in  another  boat 
through  the  Cataracts  to  Assuan  (fare  15  pias.  each  pers.).  —  Provisions 
and  tickets  of  admission  should  not  be  forgotten. 


of  As^mi'm.  PHlLiE.  .         1>J.  Route.   oOo 

The  Railway  (station,  see  p.  353)  runs  through  the  desert  in 
a  wide  curve  round  the  N.  and  S.  granite  quarries  (p.  356)  and  ends 
at  the  station  of  Shellal  (^see  helow). 

The  Dksbkt  Route  leads  from  the  railway  station  past  the 
English  church  (p.  355)  to  the  height  with  the  Arab  sheikh's  grave 
(p.  360)  and  then  descends  into  the  valley.  Beyond  the  grove  of 
tamarisks  (p.  356)  we  reach  the  old  road  described  by  Strabo,  who 
assigns  it  a  length  of  50  stadia.  At  the  little  British  cemetery  our 
route  is  joined  on  the  left  by  a  railway  constructed  for  the  transport 
of  building-material  for  the  dam.  Beside  the  road  lie  large  blocks 
of  granite ,  with  ancient  inscriptions  carved  by  Egyptian  officials, 
now  numbered  with  white  numbers.  About  1/2  M.  beyond  the  ceme- 
tery Is  a  ravine  (telegraph-line)  diverging  towards  the  village  of 
El-Mahatta  (see  below).  "We,  however,  follow  the  railway  and  skirt 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  Brick  ^S'all,  which  was  probably  erected 
as  early  as  the  Middle  Empire  to  protect  the  Nile  traffic  against  the 
predatory  attacks  of  the  E.  desert-tribes.  The  wall  is  6V2lt.  thick 
and,  at  places,  13-20  ft.  high,  and  consists  of  two  faces  of  bricks 
lilled  up  with  blocks  of  granite.  It  leads  as  far  as  Shellal  (see  below). 

The  RiTERsroB  Route  leads  from  the  Cataract  Hotel  via  Fort 
Tagug  on  the  hill  (p.  356)  to  the  village  of  El-Mahatta,  opposite 
the  island  of  Seheil. 

The  island  of  Seheil  (Siheil),  reached  from  Assuan  by  boat,  was 
dedicated  to  Anukis,  and  contains  over  200  rock  inscriptions,  besides  the 
ruins  of  two  temples.  One  of  the  temples,  near  the  village  of  Seheil  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  island,  dates  from  the  ISth  Dyn.,  the  other  (to  the  S.), 
from  the  reign  of  Ptolemy  IV.  Philopator.  High  up  cm  the  S.E.  rocks  of 
the  island  is  an  important  inscription  of  the  Ptolemaic  period,  recording 
that  in  the  reign  of  the  primaval  King  Zoser  (p.  146)  the  Nile  failed  to 
rise  during  a  period  of  seven  years  and  that  a  famine  arose  in  the  land 
in  consequence. 

The  view  of  the  stream  with  its  numerous  dark-coloured  granite 
rocks,  covered  with  a  smooth  glaze,  like  enamel,  is  very  fine,  al- 
though the  foaming  rapids  of  the  Great  Cataract  are  now  things  of 
the  past.  —  From  El-Mahatta  the  route  leads  through  the  dirty 
village  of  Kor&r,  wedged  in  among  the  granite  rocks.  It  then  passes 
the  hamlet  of  El-Khazan,  which  has  recently  sprung  up  here,  with 
the  tasteful  white  bungalows  and  pleasant  gardens  of  the  officials. 
It  then  again  turns  to  the  E.,  passing  a  cemetery  for  Christian  work- 
men, and  joins  the  desert-route  (see  above)  at  the  tomb  of  a  sheikh, 
near  the  ancient  brick  wall. 

A  shorter  route,  diverging  from  the  desert-route  beyond  the 
British  cemetery,  leads  direct  (in  about  1/2  ^^•)  to  El-Khazan  and 
the  dam  (p.  371).    Thence  to  Shellal,  see  above. 

The  village  of  Shellal  (Challal),  where  both  the  railway  and  the 
desert-route  end,  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile,  opposite  Philje.  — 
Good  boats  lie  ready  for  the  ferry  (5  pias.  there  and  back;  tickets 
at  the  hotels). 


364    Route  24.  PHIL^E.  History. 


Tlie  Island  of  Fhilse. 

Philae,  once  the 'pearl  of  Egypt',  is  600  yds.  in  length  and  160  yds. 
in  breadth,  and  consists  of  a  crystalline  granite  mixed  with  horn- 
blende, beneath  the  alluvial  deposits  of  the  Nile.  The  modern  name 
is  borrowed  from  the  Greeks,  and  is  derived  from  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tian Pi-lak,  or  the  'island  of  Lak'.  The  Copts  called  it  Pilakh,  i.e. 
'the  corner",  and  the  Arabs  used  to  call  it  Bilak. 

Now-a-days  the  island  is  cnlleA  El-Kaxr  or  Geziret  Anas  el-Wog&d,  after 
the  hero  of  one  of  tlie  tales  in  the  Thousand  and  One  Nights,  which  has 
its  scene  tran.<;ferred  to  Philse  in  the  Egyi>tian  version.  The  name  Philae 
is  known  to  the  natives  only  through  its  use  by  tourists. 

The  boatmen  relate  it  as  follows.  Once  upon  a  time  there  was  a 
Uing,  who  had  a  handsome  favourite  named  Anas  el-WogCd,  and  a  vizier, 
whose  daughter  was  named  Zdlir  el-Ward.,  i.e.  Flower  of  the  Rose.  The 
two  young  people  saw  and  fell  in  love  with  each  other,  and  found  oppor- 
tunities of  meeting  secretly,  until  they  were  discovered  through  the  im- 
prudence of  the  maiden's  attendant.  The  vizier  was  violently  enraged 
and,  in  order  to  secure  his  daughter  from  the  further  pursuit  of  the 
young  man,  despatched  her  to  the  island  of  Phila',  where  he  caused  her 
to  be  imprisoned  in  a  strong  castle  (the  temple  of  Isis)  and  closely 
guarded.  But  Anas  el-Wogud  could  not  forget  his  love.  He  forsook  the 
court  and  wandered  far  and  wide  in  search  of  her,  and  in  the  course  of 
his  travels  showed  kindness  to  various  animals  in  the  desert  and  else- 
where. At  last  a  hermit  told  him  that  he  would  find  Zahr  el- Ward  on 
the  island  of  Philfe.  He  arrived  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and  beheld  the 
walls  of  the  castle,  but  was  unable  to  reach  the  island,  for  the  water  all 
around  it  was  alive  with  crocodiles.  As  he  stood  lamenting  his  fate  one  of 
the  dangerous  monsters  offered  to  convey  him  to  the  island  on  his  hack,  out 
of  gratitude  for  the  young  man's  previous  kindness  to  animals.  The  lover 
was  thus  able  to  reach  the  prison  of  his  mistress,  and  the  guards  suffered 
him  to  remain  on  the  island,  as  he  represented  himself  to  be  a  persecuted 
merchant  from  a  distant  land.  Birds  belonging  to  Zahr  el-Ward  assured 
him  that  she  was  on  the  island,  but  he  could  never  obtain  .sight  of  her. 
Meanwhile  the  lady  also  became  unable  longer  to  endure  her  fate.  Letting 
herself  down  from  her  prison-window  by  means  of  a  rope  made  of  her 
clothes,  she  found  a  compassionate  ship-master,  who  conveyed  her  from 
the  island  in  which  the  lover  she  sought  then  was.  Then  followed  another 
period  of  search  and  finally  the  meeting  of  the  lovers.  A  marriage,  with 
the  consent  of  the  father,  ends  the  tale. 

The  name  of  Philse  does  not  occur  in  any  of  the  earlier  inscrip- 
tions, and  even  Herodotus,  who  visited  Elephantine  during  his 
journey  on  the  Nile  (ca.  450  B.C.),  makes  no  mention  of  this  island. 
The  first  mention  of  Philse  dates  from  the  reign  of  Nektanebos 
(ca.  350  B.C. ;  p.  cvii),  to  which  the  oldest  temple  buildings  on  the 
island  belong.  But  there  is  little  doubt  that  Philse  was  inhabited 
and  adorned  with  temples  at  an  earlier  period  than  that. 

The  chief  deity  of  Philse  was  the  goddess  Isis;  but  Osiris  SkniNepliihys, 
Halhor  (p.  370),  Khnum  and  Satet.,  the  gods  of  the  cataracts,  and  other 
deities  were  likewise  worshipped  here.  The  imposing  buildings  which 
lend  the  island  its  characteristic  appearance  were  erected  by  the  Ptole- 
mies during  the  last  two  centuries  B.C.  and  the  Roman  emperors  during 
the  first  three  Christian  centuries.  'Numerous  inscriptions  inform  us  that 
Oreek  and  Roman  pilgrims  flocked  in  crowds  to  the  shrine  of  the  mysteri- 
ous, benign,  and  healing  goddess  Isis.  We  know  also  that  the  goddess  of 
Philae  was  worshipped  by  the  predatory  Nubians  and  by  the  Blemmyes 
(p.  386),    and  that,    even  "after   their  battles    with   the  Emperor  Marcian 


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Older  Temple  Court.  PHILi*;.  24.  lioule.   365 

(iSiA.D.),  the  priests  of  these  tribes  were  permitted  to  offer  sacri&cea  to 
Isis  along  with  the  Egyptian  priests,  and  also  obtained  the  right  of  re- 
moving the  miraculous  image  of  the  mighty  goddess  from  the  island  at 
certain  solemn  festivals  and  of  retaining  it  for  some  time.  Even  after  all 
Egypt  had  long  been  Christianized  the  ancient  lsi»-worship  still  held 
sway  in  Nubia.  In  spite  of  the  Edicts  of  Theodosius  the  temples  of 
I'hilK  were  not  closed  until  the  reign  of  Justinian  (5'i7-565),  when  some 
of  their  chambers  were  used  for  Christian  services.  After  the  conquest  of 
Kgypt  by  the  Arabs  Philfe  embraced  Islam,  but  in  the  meantime  a  Coptic 
town  had  been  established  on  the  island. 

The  island,  ■which  formerly  ranked,  with  its  stately  temples  and 
rich  vegetation,  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  points  in  Egypt,  has 
lost  much  of  its  charm  since  the  construction  of  the  Nile  Dam.  It 
is  only  between  Aug.  and  Dec,  when  the  water  of  the  Nile  is  allow- 
ed to  flow  freely  through  the  gates  of  the  dam  and  the  surface 
of  the  water  regains  about  the  same  level  it  had  before  the  con- 
struction of  the  barrier,  that  the  whole  island  stands  above  water, 
80  that  access  may  be  obtained  to  all  the  temples.  Formerly,  during 
the  rest  of  the  year  also,  certain  portions  of  the  ruins  were  accessible 
(partly  by  boat),  but  since  the  raising  of  the  dam  (comp.  p.  371) 
this  is  no  longer  the  case.  Elaborate  operations  on  Philae  have 
taken  place  to  preserve  the  temples  as  far  as  possible  from  injury 
during  their  annual  submergence. 

The  traveller  should  visit  the  various  points  in  the  following  order, 
without  lingering  too  long  over  any  of  them,  if  his  time  be  limited.  It  is 
better  to  obtain  a  good  general  impression  from  the  whole  than  to  examine 
the  details  minutely. 

At  the  S.W.  end  of  the  island  lies  the  extensive  Outer  Temple 
Court,  which  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  first  pylon  of  the  Temple 
of  Isis,  on  the  S.  by  the  Vestibule  of  Nektanebos,  and  on  the  E. 
and  W.  by  colonnades.  This  court  dates  from  the  late-Ptolemaic 
period  or  from  the  reign  of  Augustus.  Attention  should  be  paid 
to  the  remains  of  the  strong  Quay  Wall  that  perhaps  was  carried 
round  the  greater  part  of  the  island,  with  flights  of  stone  steps  at 
various  points. 

The  Vestibule  of  Nektanebos  was  built  by  Nektanebos  as  the 
vestibule  for  a  temple,  dedicated  to  'his  mother  Isis,  revered  at  Aba- 
ton,  mistress  of  PhilcC,  and  to  the  Hathor  of  Senmet'  (p.  370).  The 
temple  was  swept  away  by  the  floods  of  the  Nile  very  shortly  after  its 
completion ;  but  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  caused  the  vestibule  to  be 
thoroughly  restored.  The  elegant  little  structure  was  supported  by 
14  columns  with  varying  floral  capitals,  above  each  of  which  was  a 
second  sistrum-capital.  Only  six  of  the  columns  are  now  standing, 
and  the  roof  has  disappeared.  Between  the  columns  were  stone 
screens,  over  6  ft.  in  height,  crowned  with  concave  cornices  and 
rows  of  UrsEus-serpents,  and  interrupted  on  the  E.,^.,  and  N.  by 
exit-doors.  These  screens  bore  reliefs  showing  King  Nektanebos 
sacrificing  to  the  gods. 

Before  the  river-front  of  the  temple  two  Obelisks  upon  chest-shaped 
bases  were  erected  in  the  Ptolemaic  period.    These  were  made  of  sand- 


366   Route  24  PHIL^.  Temple  of  hit. 

stone  instead  of  the  usual  granite.  Tlie  W.  obelisk,  bearing  a  Greek  and 
several  Arabic  inscriptions,  is  still  standing,  though  it  has  lost  its  apex; 
the  E.  obelisk  is  represented  by  its  base  only. 

The  West  Colonnade,  which  follows  the  line  of  the  shore  of  the 
island,  is  100  yds.  in  length  and  has  a  row  of  31  (formerly  32)  plant 
columns,  each  16  ft.  high,  no  two  capitals  of  which  are  alike.  Most 
of  the  columns  have  reliefs  showing  Tiberius  offering  gifts  to  the 
gods.  The  ceiling,  which  is  partly  destroyed,  is  decorated  with  stars 
and  flying  vultures.  The  rear  wall  is  embellished  with  two  rows 
of  bas-reliefs,  representing  the  Pharaoh  (usually  Augustus  or  Ti- 
berius) offering  various  gifts  to  the  gods.  —  A  subterranean  stair- 
way leads  outside  this  colonnade  to  a  small  Nilometer. 

The  East  Colonnade  is  unfinished ;  only  six  of  its  10  columns 
are  completed,  the  remainder  were  left  merely  rough-hewn.  The 
unfinished  capitals  should  be  noticed.  In  the  back-wall  are  five 
doors,  which  led  to  various  chapels. 

This  olonnude  is  adjoined  at  its  S.  end  by  the  now  very  ruinous  Templk 
OK  Eri-hems-nufer  (llarensnuphis),  erected  by  Philopator  and  Ergamenes, 
his  Nubian  contemporary,  anil  extended  by  Epiphanes.  Upon  the  existins; 
walls,  some  of  which  have  been  rebuilt,  are  representations  in  raised  and 
incised  reliefs  of  the  customary  scenes,  in  which  Philopator,  Ergamenes, 
Epiphanes,  and  Tiberius  figure  as  the  Pharaoh.  —  Behind  the  central  part 
of  the  colonnade  lay  the  small  Chapel  op  Manddlis,  a  Nubian  deity,  now 
in  a  very  fragmentary  condition;  and  at  the  N.  end  of  the  colonnade  is 
a  well  preserved  little  Temple  of  Imhotep  {jSsculapins ;  p.  cli),  built  by 
Philadelphus. 

The  "Temple  of  Isis,  dedicated  to  Isis  and  her  son  Harpocrates, 
was  the  principal  sanctuary  on  the  island  and  probably  occupies 
the  site  of  an  earlier  shrine.  Its  erection,  begun  by  Ptolemy  Phila- 
delphus, was  completed  in  its  essential  details  by  Euergetes  I.,  but 
its  embellishment  with  inscriptions  and  reliefs  was  a  very  gradual 
process,  and  at  not  a  few  points  was  never  finished. 

The  First  Pylon,  150  ft.  broad  and  60  ft.  high,  consists  of  two 
towers  and  a  central  portal,  decorated  by  Nektanebos  with  the  custom- 
ary reliefs.  On  the  front  of  the  right  (E.)  tower  appears  a  huge 
figure  of  the  Pharaoh  (Ptolemy  Neos  Dionysos)  in  the  usual  atti- 
tude, grasping  a  band  of  enemies  by  the  hair,  and  raising  his  club 
for  the  fatal  stroke.  To  the  left  stand  Isis,  the  falcon-headed 
Horus  of  Edfu,  and  Hathor.  Above  are  two  reliefs:  to  the  right, 
the  king  (Neos  Dionysos)  presents  the  crown  of  Upper  and  Lower 
Egypt  to  Horus  and  Nephthys ;  to  the  left,  he  offers  incense  to  Isis 
and  Harpocrates.  On  the  left  (W.)  tower  are  similar  representations, 
and  at  the  foot  are  numerous  demotic  and  Greek  inscriptions.  A 
doorway,  embellished  with  reliefs  by  Philometor,  leads  through  the 
left  tower  direct  to  the  entrance  of  the  Birth  House  (p.  367).  In 
front  of  the  pylon  formerly  stood  two  obelisks ,  erected  by  Euer- 
getes II.,  and  two  lions,  all  of  granite.  The  obelisks  are  now  in  the 
possession  of  Mr.  Bankes,  Kingston  Hall,  Dorsetshire. 

Adjoining  theE.  pylon-tower,  to  the  right,  is  an  elegant  Gateway, 
which  was  built  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus  and  originally  stood  in  a 


Temple  of  his.  PHlLiE.  24.  Route.    867 

brick  wall.   It  is  embellished  with  reliefs  of  Ptolemy  (on  the  lintel) 
and  Tiberius  (ou  the  jambs). 

The  "Ascent  of  the  Pjlon  is  recommended.  The  winding  staircase 
begins  in  the  S.E.  angle  ot"  the  forecourt  (.see  Plan,  p.  365).  Several  unadorned 
and  feebly  lighted  chambers  are  found  within  the  towers.  The  view 
from  the  top  commands  the  whole  island  and  its  .surroundings. 

We  now  pass  through  the  central  gateway,  within  which,  to  the 
right,  is  a  French  inscription  ('an  7  de  la  r^publique' )  commemorating 
Napoleon's  Egyptian  campaign  and  the  pursuit  of  the  Mamehikes 
by  General  Desaix  in  1799. 

The  Forecourt,  which  we  next  enter,  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by 
Pylon  I  and  on  the  N.  by  Pylon  II.  On  the  K.  and  W.  are  edifices, 
each  with  a  colonnade  on  the  side  next  the  court. 

On  the  W.  (left)  is  the  Bibth  House,  dedicated  to  Hathor-Isis 
and  to  the  memory  of  the  birth  of  her  son  Horus  (comp.  p.  250). 
It  is  reached  also  by  a  doorway  in  the  W.  tower  of  Pylon  I  (see 
p.  366);  on  the  back  of  the  pylon  is  a  relief  of  four  priests  carrying 
the  boat  of  Isis,  preceded  by  the  king  burning  incense.  The  Birth 
House  is  surrounded  on  all  four  sides  by  colonnades,  the  columns 
of  which  have  floral  capitals  surmounted  by  sistrum-capitals.  The 
columns  on  the  W.  side  are  unfinished.  The  walls,  the  columns,  and 
the  stone  screens  between  the  columns  are  adorned  with  the  con- 
ventional reliefs  and  inscriptions,  mostly  dating  from  Euergetes  II., 
Neos  Dionysos,  Augustus,  and  Tiberius.  The  reliefs  in  the  last 
chamber  are  especially  interesting :  Horus  as  a  falcon  in  the  marshes, 
J  sis  suckling  Horus  in  the  marshes  of  the  Delta,  and  other  scenes 
from  the  childhood  of  the  god. 

The  East  Building,  opposite  the  Birth  House,  was  occupied  by 
the  priests,  partly  for  scientific  purposes.  The  colonnade  of  plant 
columns  is  very  elegant.  The  reliefs  and  Inscriptions  date  from  Neos 
Dionysos,  the  votive  inscription  on  the  architrave  from  Euergetes  II. 
At  the  N.  end  of  the  colonnade  is  a  Door  (PI.  i),  approached  by 
several  steps,  opening  upon  the  inner  passage  round  the  temple. 
The  reliefs  upon  this  show  Neos  Dionysos  before  the  gods. 

The  Second  Pylon  is  10.')  ft.  broad  and  40  ft.  high.  The  Portal 
between  the  towers  was  embellished  by  Euergetes  II.  with  reliefs 
of  the  usual  type.  The  large  relief  on  the  right  tower  represents  the 
Pharaoh  Neos  Dionysos  dedicating  the  slaughtered  sacrificial  animals 
to  Horus  and  Hathor.  Above  are  two  small  reliefs:  on  the  right,  Neos 
Dionysos  presenting  a  wreath  to  Horus  and  Nephthys;  on  the  left, 
Neos  Dionysos  ofl'ering  incense  and  pouring  water  upon  an  altar,  in 
presence  of  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Horus.  The  granite  of  the  site  at  the  foot 
of  the  tower  has  been  smoothed  to  form  a  stele,  with  a  six-lined  in- 
scription and  reliefs  relating  to  a  grant  of  lands  made  to  the  temple 
of  Isis  by  Philometor  in  the  24th  year  of  his  reign  (167  B.C.).  In 
front  of  it  are  the  foundations  of  a  small  Chapel  (PI.  m).  —  On  the 
left  tower  are  similar  scenes  (figures  deliberately  defaced).  On 
both  towers  are  grooves  for  the  flag-staffs. 


368   Koule2d.  PIlILiE.  Temple  of  Jsis. 

An  inner  staircase  ascends  to  the  W.  tower  (coinp.  the  Plan),  whence 
we  proceed  across  the  central  portal  to  the  E.  tower.  The  ascent,  however, 
is  not  worth  nxaking  except  when  the  first  pylon  is  inaccessible. 

Within  the  doorway,  at  the  top,  to  the  right,  are  some  much 
faded  early-Christian  pictures. 

The  Temple  of  Isis  proper,  entered  by  this  portal,  consisted  of 
an  open  court  (here  very  small),  a  vestibule  or  pronaos,  several 
anteohambers,  and  a  sanctuary,  with  smaller  chambers  adjoining. 
The  walls  are  covered  both  outside  and  inside  with  reliefs  of  Ptole- 
mies (Philadelphus,  Kuergetes  11.,  etc.)  and  Roman  emperors  (Au- 
gustus, Tiberius,  Antoninus)  performing  the  customary  ceremonies 
in  the  guise  of  Pharaohs ;  but  the  traveller  will  find  detailed  de- 
sciiptions  of  similar  scenes  in  our  accounts  of  the  temples  of  Dendera 
(p.  245)  andEdfu(p.  344). 

The  Court  had  a  small  colonnade  on  each  side,  the  roof  of  which 
rested  on  a  single  column.  The  uncovered  portion  could  be  shaded 
from  the  sun  by  means  of  a  velarium;  the  holes  for  the  cords  are 
still  visible  in  the  upper  part  of  the  concave  cornice  turned  towards 
the  second  pylon. 

The  Vestibule,  with  eight  columns ,  was  originally  separated 
from  the  preceding  court  by  stone  screens  between  the  first  row  of 
columns.  The  colouring  of  tliis  hall,  which  has  been  preserved  on 
the  ceilings  and  the  columns,  must  have  been  very  brilliant.  The 
floral  capitals  of  the  columns  both  in  the  court  and  in  the  hall  are  the 
most  instructive  of  all  the  specimens  that  have  come  down  to  us  of 
the  manner  in  which  the  Egyptians  of  the  later  period  coloured  their 
columns.  Comparatively  little  regard  was  paid  to  the  natural  colours; 
e.g.  light  green  palm-twigs  receive  blue  ribs,  etc.  Christian  services 
were  celebrated  in  the  court  and  vestibule,  of  which  the  numerous 
Coptic  crosses  chiselled  in  the  walls  are  memorials.  A  Greek  in- 
scription in  the  doorway  to  Room  D,  on  the  right,  records  that  'this 
good  work'  took  place  under  Bishop  Theodorus.  That  was  in  the 
reigu  of  Justinian  (p.  365). 

The  small  ADtechambers  (PI.  i>,  E,  F)  preceding  the  sanctuary 
are  adjoined  by  chambers  lying  in  darkness.  The  Sanctuary,  which 
has  two  tiny  windows,  still  contains  a  pedestal  placed  here  by  Euer- 
getes  I.  and  his  wife  Berenice,  on  which  stood  the  sacred  boat  with 
the  image  of  Isis. 

The  other  rooms  in  the  inner  part  of  the  temple  do  not  repay  a  visit. 
Rootns  VIII,  VII,  and  VI  contain  fine  large  reliefs  of  Ptolemy  Philadelphus, 
some  of  which  retain  their  vivid  colouring.  The  small  Court  in  which  sa- 
crifices used  to  be  made  is  embellished  with  reliefs  of  Philadelphus  sacrific- 
ing and  pouring  water  upon  an  altar.  There  are  cellars  beneath  all  these 
rooms  and  the  sanctuary,  but  the  ceilings  and  floors  have  in  many  cases 
fallen  iu. 

To  the  W.  of  Antechamber  D  is  a  small  room  (PI.  I),  embellished 
with  representations  of  the  king  before  Isis.  A  door  (PI.  n;  see 
p.  369)  here  affords  an  exit  from  the  temple.  Here  also  is  the  ap- 
proach to  the  Staircase,  ascending  first  to  a  chamber  situated  above 


Hadrian's  Gateway.  I'WU.Ai.  24.  Route.   369 

Koom  Vll,  and  tbeiice  to  tlie  ]{oor  of  the  sanctuary.  —  A  few  steps 
descend  liere  to  the  *Osiris  Chambers,  witli  some  interesting  reliefs 
referring  to  the  death  of  Osiris  (p.  cxliii).  On  the  left  wall  of  tho 
Anteroom  (above  Room  F):  1.  The(N.)  Nile-god  olTers  a  libation  of 
milk  to  the  soul  of  Osiris,  sitting  before  Lim  in  the  form  of  a  bird; 
2.  The  falcon-headed  llarendotes  pours  the  sacred  water  over  the 
falcon-headed  mummy  of  Osiris,  behind  which  stand  the  sisters  of 
tlie  god.  3.  Four  daemons,  the  god  Show,  and  the  Emp.  Antoninus 
(builder  of  this  room)  before  Osiris  and  his  two  sisters  Isis  and 
Nephthys.  In  the  small  Main  Chamber  (above  Room  11),  on  the 
wall  opposite  the  entrance:  Central  Row,  beginning  to  the  left: 
1.  Isis  and  Nephthys  by  the  bier  of  Osiris  Onnophris,  who  is  nude; 
'2.  Two  goddesses  beside  the  tomb  of  Osiris,  whoso  head  is  wanting; 
a  lion  approaches  the  door  to  the  tomb;  3.  Four  dsemons  carrying  the 
falcon-headed  mummy  of  Osiris.  Lower  Row:  1.  The  frog-headed 
Heket  and  the  falcon-headed  Harsiesis  by  the  bier  of  Osiris,  beneath 
whiiih  stand  the  jars  for  the  entrails;  2.  The  corpse  of  Osiris  amongst 
marsh-plants;  a  priest  pouring  the  consecrated  water;  3.  The  dog- 
headed  Anubis  by  the  bier  of  Osiris,  beside  which  kneel  Isis  and 
Nephthys,  the  sisters  of  Osiris. 

We  quit  the  temple  of  Isis  by  Door  n  (sec  p.  3t38),  turn  to  the 
\V.,  and  proceed  to  visit  — 

Hadrian's  Gateway,  a  small  portal  in  the  ancient  girdle-wall 
of  the  temple,  adjoined  by  a  much  ruined  vestibule.  This  structure 
was  built  by  Hadrian  and  embellished  by  Hadrian,  Marcus  Aurelius, 
and  Lucius  Verus.  Probably  because  this  door  led  to  Abaton  (p.  371) 
the  reliefs  upon  it  refer  to  the  cult  of  Osiris.  On  the  lintel:  Hadrian 
before  Osiris,  Isis,  and  Harsiesis,  and  before  Osiris,  Nephthys,  and 
llarendotes.    On  the  left  jamb  is  the  sacred  relic  of  Abydos,  on  the 

right  jamb,  the   sacred  relic  of  Busiris  |  Tj,    the  post  of  Osiris  j. 

Within  the  gateway,  at  the  top  of  the  right  wall :  Marcus  Aurelius 
before  Osiris  and  Isis  (note  the  lines  to  guide  the  artist);  below, 
Marcus  Aurelius  bringing  offerings,  grapes  and  flowers,  to  Isis. 

The  Vestibule,  which  was  never  completed  and  is  now  much  ruined, 
contain.s  some  interestin;;  reliefs.  Above  the  door  in  the  S.  wall  (PI.  o) 
of  the  chamber  are  two  rows  of  reliefs.  Above:  Nephthys  presenting  the 
crown  of  Lower  Egypt,  and  Isis  that  of  Upper  Egypt  to  Horns,  who  is 
seated  on  a  bench;  the  king's  name  is  being  inscribed  on  a  palm  branch 
by  Thout,   to   the  left,  and  by  Seshet  (goddess  of  writing),  to  the  right; 

behind  Thout  sits  the  god  Show,  holding  a  sail  .2  ■]■  )  ,   and  still   farther 


^. 


back  are  another  god  and  a  goddess  playing  the  lyre.  Below  :  The  Osiris 
tomb  at  Abaton,  with  the  body  of  Osiris  borne  by  a  crocodile;  to  the  left 
stands  isis,  hii;her  up  is  the  sun  among  mountains,  and  above  the  whole 
are  the  sun,  a  half-moon,  and  stars.  The  whole  design  is  shown  within  a 
small  temple,  with  a  door  to  the  left,  and  two  large  pylons  and  one  small 
one  in  front;  to  the  right  are  rocks.  —  To  the  left  of  the  door  is  an  unfin- 
ished relief  of  the  king  presenting  lands.    Above  are  three  lines  in  MeroVtic 


370    Route  24.  PHILvE. 

carsive  characters  (p.  cxxxi)  —  In  the  second  row  from  the  top,  on  the 
Right  Wall  (PI.  p),  is  the  celebrated  Representation  of  the  Source  of  the  Nile: 
at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  eminence,  on  which  perch  a  vulture  and  a  falcon,  the 
Nile-god,  surrounded  by  a  serpent,  pours  water  from  two  vases.  —  To  the 
right  of  this  is  Horas  (in  the  form  of  a  falcon)  on  a  reedy  lake  between 
Hathor  (on  the  left)  and  Isis,  Kephthys,  Horus,  and  Amon  (on  the  right). 
A  subterranean  staircase  to  the  8.  of  Hadrian's  Gateway  leads  to  a 
kilometer  (lights  necessary),  which  has  hieratic  and  demotic  scales  as  well 
as  the  customary  Coptic  one. 

From  Hadrian's  Gateway  we  proceed  to  the  N.,  to  the  mins  of  a 
Temple  of  HuTendotes  (p.  cl),  built  by  the  Emp.  Claudius. 

In  the  N.  part  of  the  island  (comp.  the  Map,  p.  364)  are  two 
Coptic  Churches^  the  remains  of  a  Coptic  Convent,  and  a  ruined  Temple 
of  Augustus,  built  in  the  18th  year  of  that  emperor's  reign. 

At  the  extreme  N.E.  of  the  island,  and  in  the  axis  of  the  temple 
of  Augustus,  is  a  large  Uoman  Town  Gate,  with  three  arches,  the 
side-arches  being  lower  than  that  in  the  centre.  The  N.  side-aroh 
has  a  domical  stone  vault  in  the  Itoman  style.  This  gateway  was 
probably  erected  by  Diocletian. 

About  50  paces  to  the  E.  of  the  Temple  of  Isis,  lies  the  small  — 

*Temple  of  Hathor,  dedicated  to  Hathor-Aphrodite  by  Philo- 
metor  and  Euergetes  II.  The  colonnade  in  front  of  it  (restored) 
and  the  sanctuary  (now  vanished)  were  both  added  by  Augustus. 

The  columns  in  the  former  were  united  by  stone  screens,  on  which 
Augustus  appeared  sacrificing  to  various  forms  of  Hathor.  On  the  columns 
themselves  are  charming  representations  of  flute-players,  harpers,  figures 
of  Bes  playing  the  tambourine  and  the  harp  and  dancing,  apes  playing 
the  lyre,  priests  carrying  an  antelope,  etc.  The  temple  proper  is  in  better 
preservation;  in  front  of  it  are  two  plant  columns,  which  were  joined  to 
the  walls  by  means  of  screens. 

To  the  S.E.  of  this  temple ,  on  the  bank  ,  rises  the  so-called  — 
**Kiosque,  the  chief  decoration  and  the  characteristic  symbol  of 
tlie  island,  which,  however,  is  generally  so  submerged  that  only  the 
upper  part  of  its  columns  are  visible.  It  dates  from  the  Roman 
imperial  period  and  was  never  completed.  Above  the  floral  capitals 
of  the  columns  it  was  intended  to  add  sistrum-capitals. 

Only  the  end-walls  are  smoothed  on  the  outside,  the  side-walls  were 
left  rough-hewn.  Within,  two  of  the  stone  screens  between  the  columns 
are  embellished  with  reliefs:  Trajan  oflering  wine  to  Isis  and  to  the 
falcon-headed  Horus,  and  Trajan  before  Osiris  and  Isis.  The  remaining 
screens  are  simply  smoothed,  except  two  which  are  still  rough-hewn. 


The  rocky  island  of  Biggeh  or  Bigeh  (Egypt.  Senmet),  the  chief 
deities  of  which  were  Ups,  the  goddess  of  fire,  and  Hathor,  is,  like 
Philae,  now  flooded  in  winter  (comp.  p.  365).  It  is  reached  by  boat  in 
a  few  minutes  from  Philse,  of  which  it  commands  a  picturesque  view. 
"We  land  at  the  ancient  quay  and  ascend  by  a  staircase.  In  front  of 
us  lie  the  remains  of  a  Ptolemaic  temple  (Neos  Dionysos),  of  which 
part  of  the  hypostyle  hall  is  still  standing,  with  its  plant-columns 
united  by  stone  screens.  On  the  E.  side  is  a  door,  into  which  an  apse 
has  been  built.     There  are  numerous  inscriptions   on  the  island. 


DAM  OF  ASSDAN.  24.  Route.   371 

Biggeh  was  the  site  also  of  the  famous  sanctuary  of  Aboton,  with  a 
tomb  of  Osiris  (conip.  p.  cxliv").  Active  travellers  are  recommended 
to  climb  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  rocks  of  Biggeh,  for  thu  sake  of  the 
remarkable  view  over  the  whole  cataract  district. 

The  rocky  islets  off  the  N.  end  of  Philse,  now  called  Konosso 
('great  rook'),  were  formerly  the  S.  limit  of  Egypt  (seep.  386). 
They  are  now  generally  submerged.  The  islets  contain  numerous 
rock-inscriptions,  among  which  the  cartouches  of  Psammetichos  11. 
are  conspicuous  on  a  massive  double  rock. 


The  Nile  Dam  at  Assu&n. 

Those  who  wish  to  visit  the  Dam  only  may  go  hy  the  shorter  route 
described  at  p.  363,  and  return  by  the  rather  lonp^er  route  along  the  bank. 

The^Dam  of  Assuan  [Barrage,  Ax&h.  Es-Sadd,  i.e.  'the  Dam',  or 
El-Khazdn,  i.e.  'the  Reservoir' ),  built  in  1898-1902  below  Philse,  is 
the  largest  structure  of  the  kind  in  the  world  and  ranks  among  the 
most  wonderful  sights  of  Egypt.  It  was  constructed  in  order  to  dam 
up  the  water  of  the  Nile  so  that  a  regular  supply  could  be  furnished 
during  time  of  low  water.  By  this  means  the  country  can  be  regularly 
irrigated  all  the  year  round,  and  many  irrigation  canals  that  used 
formerly  to  run  dry  periodically  now  receive  a  constant  supply  of 
water.  Upwards  of  500,000  acres  were  added  in  1902  to  the  area  of 
land  cultivable  in  summer,  and  it  is  estimated  that  this  increased  the 
national  wealth  by  15,000,000Z.  The  dam  is  built  of  granite  blocks 
brought  from  the  old  quarries  at  Assuan  (p.  356)  and  runs  straight 
across  the  river-channel  for  a  distance  of  2160  yds.  (II/4M.).  The 
original  height  of  the  dam  was  130  ft.  above  the  foundation,  while 
its  thickness  varied  from  23  ft.  at  the  top  to  98  ft.  at  the  bottom. 
Inl907-12,  however,  it  was  raised  about  1672  ft- higher  and  its  thick- 
ness increased  by  about  as  much ;  so  that  the  storage-lake  formed 
above  the  dam  has  now  a  capacity  of  2,420,000,000  cubic  metres 
(instead  of  980,000,000),  a  depth,  when  full,  of  88  ft.  (instead 
of  65  ft.),  and  an  extent  upstream  of  185  P/I.  (instead  of  140  M.). 
The  masonry  is  penetrated  by  180  sluice  gates  for  regulating  the 
flow  of  the  water.  These  include  140  lower  sluices  (each  measuring 
23  X  6I/2  ft.)  for  the  distribution  of  the  water  and  40  upper  sluices 
(each  6I/2  X  11  ft.)  to  permit  the  escape  of  surplus  water.  The  iron 
gates  of  the  sluices  ('Stoney  patent')  are  regulated  by  the  help  of 
electrical  winches  standing  on  the  top  of  the  dam.  "When  the  Nile 
commences  to  rise  at  the  beginning  of  July  all  the  sluices  are  opened. 
After  the  end  of  November,  when  practically  all  the  suspended 
mud  has  passed  through  and  the  water  has  become  comparatively 
clear,  the  gates  are  gradually  closed,  one  after  the  other  in  regular 
order.  The  lake  above  the  dam  is  thus  formed  and  becomes  quite 
full  about  Feb.  1st.  When  the  want  of  water  in  Egypt  begins  to  be 
noticeable  (about  the  end  of  March)  the  quantity  required  for  culti- 


372    Route  24.  DAM  OF  ASSUAN. 

vation  is  dra'wn  off  gradually  from  the  accumulated  stores  in  tlie 
reservoir,  -which  last  until  the  river  once  more  begins  to  rise. 

To  the  W.  of  the  dam  is  a.  Navigation  Caval,  by  which  the  boats 
are  looked  up  and  down  stream.  It  is  II/4M.  long  and  the  difference 
in  level  (75  ft.)  is  surmounted  by  four  locks,  each  230  ft.  long  and 
31  ft.  wide.  The  two  npper  gates  of  the  locks  are  G3  ft.  high,  the 
live  others  49  ft.,  39  ft.,  and  30  ft.  high. 

The  original  plan  for  the  two  dams  of  Assuan  and  Assiut  (p.  232)  was 
worked  out  by  Sir  William  Willcocks  at  the  Egyptian  Ministry  of  Public 
Worka  under  the  superintendence  of  Sir  William  Qarslin,  Under-Secretary 
of  State.  The  execution  of  the  design,  which  was  finally  adopted  on  the  ad- 
vice of  the  late  Sir  Benjamin  Baker  (p.  23'-'),  was  entrusted  to  the  English 
contractors  Hears.  John  Aird  <k  Co.  The  work  was  begun  in  the  summer  of 
1898;  the  foundation-stone  (now  commemorated  by  a  bron/.e  tablet)  was  laid 
on  Feb.  12lh,  1899,  by  the  Duke  of  Comanght;  and  on  Dec.  10th,  1902,  the 
dam  was  formally  declared  complete  in  the  presence  of  the  Khedive,  the 
Duke  and  Duchess  ofConnaught,  and  Lord  Cromer.  The  total  cost  of  the 
two  dams  amounted  to  &¥.  3,237,000.  —  The  plan  for  the  raising  of  tlie 
dam  at  Assuan  was  ^T^^s.ve  A  \>y  Sir  Benjamin  Baker.  The  new  works,  which 
cost  about  i£E  1,200,0(0,  besides  iSE  520,000  spent  on  the  expropriation 
of  the  ^Nubian  villages,  were  formally  opened  on  Bee.  23rd,  1912,  in  pre- 
sence of  the  Khedive  and  Lt  rd  Kitchener.  —  Comp.  'The  Assuan  Reservoir 
and  Lake  Maris',  by  Sir  William  Willcocks  (1906). 

Those  who  come  from  Philae  by  boat  (p.  362)  land  at  a  flight  of 
wooden  steps  by  the  dam.  On  the  \V.  bank  is  a  small,  but  good 
Restaurant,  affording  a  good  view  of  the  whole  structure. 

The  Return  to  Assu.\n  by  boat  (p.  362)  is  made  from  the  lowest 
of  the  four  locks.  The  course  follows  the  W.  bank  of  the  river, 
•through  another  lock  and  past  Seheil  (p.  363),  Saliig,  and  other 
picturesque  rocky  islands.    Assuan  is  reached  in  about  li/o^r. 


25.  Routes  through  the  Eastern  Desert. 

Comp.  the  Map  after  the  Index. 

The  necessary  Camels  (about  20-30  pias.  per  day)  are  obtained  with  the 
aid  of  one  of  the  consular  agents.  Tents  and  other  requisites  must  be  brought 
from  Cairo  (comp.  p.  xxv).  The  Ehabtr,  or  guide  in  charge  of  the  caravan. 
Is  held  responsible  for  the  safe  conduct  of  the  entire  party,  and  obedience 
to  his  marching  orders  is  advised. 

Comp.  T.  Barron  tt  W.  F.  Hmne.^  Topography  and  Geology  of  the  Eastern 
Desert  of  Egypt  (Central  Portion;  Cairo,  Survey  Department ,  \^Qi1) :,  Arthur 
E.  P.  Weigall.,  Travels  in  the  Upper  Egyptian  Deserts  (Edinburgh  &  London, 
1909);  Ed.  Fraas.,  Geoenostisches  Protil  vom  Nil  zum  EotenMeer  (Zeitschrift 
der  Deutschen  geologischen  Gesellschaft,  Band  52,  Heft  4,  190(0;  Prof. 
G.  Srhice^nfurth,  Autnahmen  in  der  ostlichen  Wiiste  von  ^Egypten  (in  ICisheets, 
1:200,000,  with  the  exception  of  Sbeet  1  mentioned  on  p.  If8;   1897-19J0). 

The  desert-routes  between  the  Nile  and  the  Red  Sea  were  im- 
portant in  antiquity  both  for  the  trade  with  the  seaports  and  the 
land  of  Punt  (p.  223)  and  for  the  gold-mines  and  valuable  quarries 
of  green  breccia  and  several  varieties  of  granite  in  the  mountains 
of  the  Arabian  Desert.  Keneh  (p.  222)  is  now  the  usual  starting- 
place  of  the  caravans,  but  in  antiquity  it  was  Koptos  {^Kufl;  p.  223). 


Bill  ^\.\I{UU.  -25.  Route.   373 

The  most  important  barbonrs  on  the  Red  Sea,  named  from  N.  to  S., 
were  Myos  Hormos  (now  Abu  Shnr  €l-KilU).i  LfuJcos  Limen  (now 
Koseir),  and  Berenike. 

From  Kkneh  to  Auu  Shar  Tsl-Kibli,  5-6  days.  The  route  leads 
to  the  N.E.  from  the  Wdill  Keneh  to  the  (3  days' march)  WCidi  Faltreh, 
on  the  N.  side  of  w]iich  lics'the  Ge'el  Fatlreh  (49*20  ft. ;  Mom  Cl'aud- 
ianus).  About  '/2  ^^-  to  '^'^  S.  of  the  latter  wadi  are  the  granite 
quarries,  known  as  Umm  Dikal  ('mother  of  columns'),  which  were 
worked  by  faptives  and  convicts,  chiefly  in  the  reigns  of  Trajan  and 
Hadrian.  Traces  have  been  found  also  of  old  gold-mines,  the 
exploitation  of  which  is  again  being  attempted  by  the  Fatirah  Explor- 
ing Company.  Here  are  situated  also  the  ruins  of  the  Roman  settle- 
ment of  Hydreuma  Trajani.  These  consist  mainly  of  a  fort  about 
82  yds.  square  surrounded  by  walls  and  towers.  Outside  the  walls 
lie  a  temple  and  other  buildings,  and  some  large  columns  and  Greek 
inscriptions  have  been  found  in  the  quarries.  About  two  days' 
journey  farther  to  the  N.  is  the  Mons  Porphyrites,  now  called  Gebel 
Dukhdn  ('smoke  mountain' ;  4460  ft.),  the  ancient  porphyry  quarries 
of  which  were  worked  by  the  Romans.  Here  are  the  ruins  of  an 
Ionic  temple  of  the  time  of  Hadrian  (never  completed),  remains  of  an 
irregularly  built  town,  and  two  large  water-reservoirs.  We  follow 
the  ancient  route  hence  to  the  plateau  of  Abu  Shdr  el-Kibli,  on  the 
E.  slope  of  which  lie  the  ruins  of  Myos  Hormos  (see  above).  On  the 
coast,  3  M.  to  the  E.,  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  fort, —  A  second 
route,  running  farther  to  the  S.,  along  the  ancient  'Porphyry  Road', 
ascends  the  large  Wcidi  Keneh,  then  proceeds  to  the  Wadi  Kaltar, 
and  finally  skirts  the  S.  base  of  the  Mons  Porphyrites  to  the  sea. 

The  Journey  from  Keneh  to  Koseir  (4-5  days ;  from  Luxor, 
see  below)  is  much  more  interesting.  The  route  from  Keneh  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Nile  for  the  first  day  and  leads  through  the  villages 
of  Sheikh  Rekdb,  Doni,  and  Kom  'Imr'in,  the  first  on  the  left,  the 
other  two  on  the  right  side  of  tlio  road.  The  first  night  is  generally 
spent  at  the  caravanserai  of  Bir'Ambar,  about  B'/o  l^i'S-  from  Keneh. 
This  large  caravanserai  was  erected  at  the  expense  of  an  Ibrahim 
Pasha  and  comprises  several  separate  buildings,  covered  with  dome- 
shaped  roofs  and  surrounded  by  courts  and  colonnades. 

On  the  second  day  we  advance  steadily  towards  the  E.,  ascending 
almost  imperceptibly,  through  a  monotonous  plain  intersected  in 
all  directions  by  small  undulating  heights.  All  around  us  extend 
the  interminable  yellowish-grey,  sun-bleached  rocks  of  the  desert; 
not  a  trace  of  organic  life  is  visible,  not  a  single  green  tree  or  shrub. 
To  the  E.  of  the  Gebel  el-Karn  ('the  horn'),  about  midway  between 
Bir'Ambar  and  Lakeita,  the  road  from  Keneh  is  joined  by  that  from 
Luxor.  The  only  variety  is  afforded  by  an  occasional  Mabwnla  or  Ma- 
halta.  The  mabwalas  are  the  places  where  the  camels  are  lialted 
from  time  to  time  to  make  water.  They  occur  on  every  great  caravan- 


374   Route  25.  LAKEITA.  KaMern  Pesert. 

route  at  regular  intervals  and  are  of  the  utmost  importance  as 
guide-posts  showing  the  road.  The  mahattas  or  halting- places  are 
6-9  M.  apart  and  serve  also  as  measures  of  distance.  Here  and  there 
we  observe  some  of  the  semaphore-towers  of  an  optical  telegraph 
dating  from  the  time  of  Mohammed  All.  The  Koseir  caravans 
usually  pass  the  second  night  in  the  village  of  Lakeita  [El-Gheta; 
9  hrs.  from  Bir  'Ambar,  I21/2  ^irs.  from  Keneh),  which  is  chiefly  in- 
habited by  'Ahdbdeh  (p.  356).  The  small  oasis  has  two  wells,  some 
palms,  a  few  mud-huts,  and  a  half-ruined  Arab  caravanserai.  Near  the 
chief  well  are  some  fragments  of  a  Greek  inscription  containing  the 
name  of  Tiberius  Claudius.  The  manners  and  customs  of  the  primitive 
desert-tribes  in  this  region  well  repay  observation;  the  way  in  which 
the  children  wear  their  hair  is  especially  notable. 

About  21/2 hrs.  to  the  E.  of  Lakeita  we  quit  the  plain  and  enter  a 
wadi,  flanked  by  abrupt  terraces  belonging  to  the  upper  cretaceous 
formation  and  containing  petrified  oyster-shells.  In  8/4  hr.  more  we 
reach  the  Kasr  el-Bandt,  or  'Castle  of  the  Maidens',  a  picturesque 
rock  of  sandstone  formed  by  atmospheric  erosion  and  covered  with 
numerous  graffiti  in  Greek,  Coptic,  Arabic,  Himyaritic,  and  Sinaitic 
characters,  engraved  here  by  caravans.  Adjacent  lies  a  Roman  water- 
ing-station (Hydreuma),  forming  an  oblong  125  ft.  in  length  and 
102  ft.  in  breadth.  The  enclosing  wall,  formed  of  courses  of  sandstone 
without  cement,  was  6V2  ft-  high.  Within  the  wall  lie  20  small 
chambers  opening  on  a  rectangular  inner  court,  the  only  exit  from 
which  is  on  the  N.  side.   No  water  is  now  procurable  here. 

At  a  distance  of  about  2  hrs.  from  Hydreuma  the  rocks  close  in 
and  form  a  winding  pass  named  Mutrak  es-Seldm.  On  the  Gebel  Abu 
Ku'  ('father  of  the  elbow'),  at  the  entrance  to  the  pass,  are  more 
graffiti,  older  than  those  at  Kasr  el-Banat;  in  one  of  them  Amen- 
ophis  IV.  is  mentioned.  Beyond  the  pass  we  approach  the  fine 
mountain  scenery  through  which  the  second  part  of  the  Koseir  route 
leads.  In  the  distance,  to  the  right,  rise  the  S.  foothills  of  the  Ham- 
mamdt  Mts.,  while  nearer  and  in  front  are  the  S.W.  spurs.  These 
mountains  rise  in  terraces  to  the  height  of  4200  ft.  and  outvie  in 
impressive  scenery  the  rocks  of  Assuan.  The  outliers  of  the  range 
consist  of  a  yellow  sandstone,  belonging  to  the  cretaceous  form- 
ation, followed  by  the  red  'Nubian'  sandstone,  also  of  the  creta- 
ceous system. 

Among  these  hills,  to  the  N.  of  the  caravan-route,  lies  a  second 
Roman  station,  with  a  fllled-inwell.  About 2 hrs.  farther  on  the  sand- 
stone disappears  and  we  reach  the  older  (palaeozoic)  formations  of  the 
Hammamat  Mountains  proper.  The  character  of  the  scenery  suddenly 
changes;  the  hard,  dark  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  and  the  mountains 
assume  an  abrupt,  Alpine  appearance.  Here  begins  the  W&di 
Hamm&mit,  the  Behenu  Valley  of  the  Egyptians,  who  quarried  its 
hard  dark  stone  for  statues  and  coffins  in  the  most  ancient  times. 
[This  was  the  Niger  or  Thebaicus  Lapis  of  the  ancients,  according  to 


F.aflfrn  Dffiert.  KOSEIK.  25.  Rouk.   375 

Fraas  a  Silurian  rock  with  outcDppirigs  of  later  granite.]  lii  1  lir. 
more  we  reach  the  Blr  nammdmdt,  a  well  16  ft.  in  diameter,  now, 
however,  containing  no  water.  Near  the  well  arc  the  remains  of  a 
Roman  wall  and  five  unfinished  and  now  shattered  sarcophagi.  The 
([uarries  contain  nnmerous  Egyptian  inscriptions.  The  earliest  ex- 
pedition to  llammamat  of  which  we  have  any  knowledge  took  place 
in  the  reign  of  King  Esse  (5th  Dyn.).  At  a  later  period,  especially 
under  the  Middle  Einpire,  the  quarries  were  diligently  worked,  and 
even  under  the  New  J'2nipiro  they  were  in  operation.  We  hear  of  a 
great  undertaking  under  Ramses  IV.  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
block>  for  the  temjile  of  Amon  at  Thebe.«,  in  which  no  fewer  than 
8368  workmen  and  soldiers  were  employed.  The  quarries  were 
worked  under  Darius,  Xerxes,  and  Artaxerxes  also. 

Just  beyond  the  quarries  the  route  turns  from  the  N.E.  to  the  S. 
and  passes  the  ruins  of  El-Fmvakhir  ('the  potsherds'),  now  in  the 
possession  of  a  British  mining-company.  Traces  of  the  ancient  open 
workings  and  deep  subterranean  adits  (now  very  difficult  of  access), 
the  foundations  of  hundreds  of  workmen's  cottages,  and  numerous 
inscriptions,  hear  witness  to  the  former  importance  of  the  place. 

About  1  hr.  beyond  El-Fawakhir  we  reach  Blr  es-Sidd,  a  small 
and  picturesquely  situated  spring,  adjoined  by  settlements  of  the 
'Ababdeh.  In  4  hrs.  more  we  reach  the  top  of  the  pass  of  Ri'a,  on 
the  other  side  of  whii-h  we  descend  through  the  Wad i  Ahu  Shan 
to  (3  hrs.l  the  Wadi  Rij^afa,  containing  a  large  well,  the  water  of 
which,  however,  is  considered  unwholesome.  The  route  now  makes 
a  wide  curve  to  the  N.  and  at  the  plain  of  'Liteima'  reaches  the 
dividing  line  between  the  central  mountain  range  and  the  outlying 
chains  consisting  of  cretaceous  sandstone  and  tertiary  rocks  (white 
limestone).  After  2^/2  hrs.  we  pass  through  the  Wadi  Beida  slwA 
proceed  to  (3  hrs.)  XheBh  el-lnglis  (dug  by  l-lnglish  troops  in  1800), 
the  cisterns  of  which  are  generally  dry.  Thence  we  go  on  through  the 
^Vddi  Aiiibayi,  with  a  spring  of  bra  kish  water,  to  (4  hrs.)  — 

Koseir  (Qos^eir),  on  the  Arabian  Gulf.  Koseir  is  now  an  un- 
important town  of  IGOO  inhali.,  the  seat  of  a  Ma'miir  (p.  xlvii),  with 
a  quay,  a  long  wooden  mole,  two  mosques,  several  bazaars,  govern- 
ment-buililings,  and  a  telegraph-ofiice.  In  the  Ptolemaic  period  the 
desert-route  ended  here  at  the  Leukos  IJmen  or  'White  Harbour', 
and  in  earlier  times  in  the  vicinity  of  the  WudiGasiis,  near  the  village 
of  <Saui(',  a  little  to  the  N.  of  Koseir.  About  3-4  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Koseir  lies  Old  Koseir,  with  some  scanty  ancient  remains.  —  An 
interesting  and  very  attractive  visit  may  be  made  to  the  coral  reefs 
which  here  skirt  the  shore  and  are  easily  accessible  at  ebb-tide. 

On  the  return-journey  towanls  the  Xile  the  Keduins  sometimes  prefer 
another  and  more  southerly  route  (the  so-called  'Jlo'ilii  Route),  diverging 
from  the  route  above  described  at  the  Hir  el-lnglts  (see  above).  This  alter- 
native route,  which  may  he  strongly  recommended,  leads  at  lirst  through 
the  winding  Wddi  Kabr  el-Khddim,  afterwards  passing  the  Qebel  Auhcif  and 
throiigh  the  pass  of  lii'at  el-Oliutdl  into  the  ]Viidi  Ohazdl.  To  the  right 
rise  the  impo-iing  phonnlithic  cnnes  of  the  Oebel  Daghaniyeh  and  the  Q(bel 

IUki>kkkr''s  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  24 


376    Roiite  '25.  KOSEIR.  FM^Urn  Desert. 

Moshdghir  (6  hrs,  from  Bir  el-Inglis),  the  ascent  of  wbich  from  the  E.  is 
easy  ami  well  worth  while,  as  it  commands  an  excellent  survey  of  the 
abrupt  peaks  of  the  Ilammamat.  We  next  follow  the  ^Vddi  Hovi'Cda,  which 
farther  on  takes  the  name  of  Wddi  el-Jlomr,  with  the  line  Oebel  ffomr 
flanking  it  on  the  right.  On  the  way  are  numerous  traces  of  ancient 
gold-mines,  especially  noticealile  in  the  numerous  thick  beds  of  quartz 
to  which  the  Oebel  Ilnmr  owes  its  formation  The  night  is  spent  at  (4  hrs.) 
Bir  el-Mo'ila,  a  well  beside  a  few  huts  of  the 'Ababdeh.  At  the  Oebel  Wdkif 
we  cross  the  Tarik  ed-Da/'rdm,  a  road  running  from  N.  to  S.,  and  farther 
on  we  reach  'Amdra,  with  another  well  and  'Ababdeh  huts.  Thence  our 
route  lies  through  the  Wddi  A'i7r  and  the  Wddi  el-Kash  to  the  (S'/z  hrs.) 
Bir  el-Kash,  a  dried-up  well.  The  routed  now  leads  through  palaeozoic 
greywacke  rocks,  which,  beyond  Bir  el-Mo'ila,  assume  the  same  breccia 
formation  as  in  the  Ilammamat.  The  Wadi  el-Kagh  bends  towards  the 
S.,  but  wc  quit  the  mountains  (2i/2  hrs.  from  Bir  el-Kash)  by  the  pass  of 
/li'at  el-Kheil-,  and  re-enter  the  desert  of  sand  and  gravel,  the  heights  of 
which  ore  formed  of  cretaceous  sandstone.  We  proceed  across  the  pass  of 
h'i'al  el-IIamra  to  MabwcUdt  Has  As/ar,  whence  we  go  on  through  the  Wddi 
Mdghlnl  to  Mabicalat  Kh6r  el-Ghir.  Lastly  we  proceed  via  Odhral  ed-Dab'a 
to  (10  hrs.  from  Ri'at  cl-Kheil)  Lnheiln  (p.  374),  where  our  route  unites 
with  the  more  northerly  one  already  described. 

The  .louKNEi"  TO  Bf.kenike  through  the  territory  of  the  'Ababdeh  Be- 
duins  is  seldom  undertaken.  We  may  .start  from  Kcneh  or  Kuft,  diverging 
at  Lakeita  (p.  374),  or  from  Kdfu  (Redesiyeh;  see  below).  On  both  routes 
traces  of  old  walerinji-stations  are  liiscernible.  The  Itinerary  of  Antoninus 
(3rd  cent.  A.D.)  gives  a  list  of  the  ancient  stations  (starting  from  Koptos) 
with  their  distance  from  each  other  in  Roman  miles,  as  follows:  Phoeni- 
con  24,  Didyme  24,  Afrodito  20,  Kompasi  22,  Jovis  2i5,  Aristonis  25,  Pha- 
lacro  25,  Apollonos  23,  Kabalsi  27,  Ksenon  Hydreuma  27,  Berenike  18  — 
in  all  258  Roman  miles  =  about  236  I'Inglish  miles.  —  A  third  route, 
established  by  Hadrian,  led  from  Antinoupolis  (p.  209)  to  the  Red  Sea, 
and  then  southwards  along  the  coast  to  Berenike. 

Golenitheff,  the  Russian  Egyptologist,  who  described  his  journey  in 
the  'Recueil  de  travaui  relatifs  a  la  philologie  et  a  I'archeologie  egyp- 
tiennes  et  assyriennes'  (xiii,  1890),  took  11  days  from  Redesiyeh  (p.  348) 
to  Berenike,  and  returned  thence  to  Assuan  in  8  days.  One  day  may  be 
saved  on  the  outward  journey  by  starting  from  Edfu  (p. 345).  The  temple  of 
Sethos  I.  is  then  reached  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  first  day. 

ist  Day.  From  Redesiyeh  to  Bir  Ahbnd  (3  hrs.),  in  the  Wddi  Midh. 
In  the  Wadi  51iiib,  which  is  entered  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Wddi  Am- 
merikbeh,  is  an  ancient  station  with  masons' marks  like  those  at  El-Hdsh, 
near  Silsileh  (p.  337j.  Lepsius  mentions  a  ruin  here,  named  Serhush  (i.e. 
sandstone),  datini;  from  some  ancient  settlement.  * 

2nd  Day.  The  Temple  of  Sethos  I.  is  reached  in  the  afternoon.  This 
temple,  about  37  31.  from  Redesiyeh,  after  which  town  it  is  sometimes 
called,  was  discovered  in  1816  by  CailHaud.  It  was  built  by  Sethos  I.  beside 
an  ancient  watering-station,  and  was  dedicated  to  Amon-Re.  The  vesti- 
bule is  built  of  blocks  of  sandstone  and  has  four  papyrus  -  columns  with 
bud-capitals.  The  reliefs  represent  the  king  as  victor  over  negroes  and 
Asiatics.  The  following  hall,  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  contains  four  square 
pillars,  reliefs  of  the  king  at  sacriiice,  and  long  inscriptions  recording  the 
sinking  of  the  wells  and  the  building  of  the  temple.  In  the  rear  wall 
are  three  niches,  with  statues  of  the  king  and  various  gods.  —  A  Small 
Building  beside  the  temple  perhaps  marks  the  site  of  the  well.  On  an 
adjoining  rock,  to  the  E.,  are  three  steles.  On  one  of  these  is  an  Asiatic 
goddess  on  horseback,  with  shield  and  spear;  the  second  is  dedicated  to 
the  official  entrusted  with  the  sinking  of  the  well ;  and  on  the  third  is 
Eni,  viceroy  of  Ethiopia,  kneeling  before  the  king.  Higher  up  on  the 
rock  are  rude  figures  of  gazelles,  Greek  graffiti,  and  an  inscription  of  a 
Prince  Mermes,  dating  from  tbe  reign  of  Amenophis  III. 

3rd  Day.  More  masons'  naarks  discovered  on  small  rocks.  Ancient 
statiou  of  Abu  Greta,  with  two  cisterns  and  chambers  (not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  place  of  the  same  name  near  Berenike,  see  p.  377). 


FM»tem  Desert.  BERENIKE.  25.  Route.   377 

4th  Day.  Descent  into  the  Wadi  Beizah ,  with  its  acacias.  Eude 
tiesigns  and  grafUti  on  the  rucks.  We  cross  the  H'drfi  IHgelig.  On  the 
rocks  to  the  right  are  rude  representations  of  girafl'es,  camels,  and  ibexes. 
Kemalns  of  an  ancient  station  named  Sammut,  with  a  cistern  and  cham- 
bers, occur  in  the  wadi  of  the  same  name.  We  next  proceed  through 
the  broad  green  Wddi  Moelheh  (Bir  Jliiclih)  towards  the  Oebel  Mdgef 
0935  ft.),  near  which  is  a  well  of  excellent  water. 

5th  Day.  We  pass  several  groups  of  rude  stone  huts,  probably  built 
by  miners.  View  of  Gebel  Ziibara  (see  below).  On  a  rock  to  the  right 
is  a  representation  of  an  Egyptian  bark,  with  sails  and  oars.  Farther  on 
is  another  ruined  station. 

6th  Day.  Ancient  station  of  Ed-Duei(j.  Adjacent  is  another  smaller 
building.  About  3  hrs.  farther  on  w5  cross  the  watershed  between  the 
Kile  and  the  Red  Sea.  Two  more  cisterns,  within  a  semicircular  enclosure. 
We  pass  the  granite  hill  of  Abu  Had  (2075  ft.). 

7th  Day.  Descent  into  the  Wddi  Oemdl.  Station  in  the  form  of  a 
right-angled  triangle,  with  two  cisterns.  Lateral  valley  diverging  towards 
the  emerald  mines  (see  below).     To  the  right  rises  the  Gebel  Abyad. 

8th  Day.  We  proceed  through  the  M'ddi  Ahi/acl  and  the  Wddi  iligelig., 
leaving  the  Gebel  J/amdla  (6490  ft.)  to  the  right;  then  along  the  Wddi  R6mit. 
On  a  height  in  the  W&di Ilufihi  are  some  sheikhs'  graves,  in  a  circular  form. 
9th  Day.  .Seven  other  circular  tombs:  the  well  oi  El-Haratra  lies  to  the 
right;  old  structure  of  a  large  cistern  in  the  Wddi  el-IIasir.  Through  the 
Wddi  Amvugdni  to  the  Wddi  Ldhemi,  which  descends  from  the  mountain 
of  that  name,  crosses  our  route,  and  proceeds  in  windings  to  the  Red 
Sea.  The  last  station  is  Abu  Greta  {let  remark  at  p.  376),  comprising 
several  buildings,  the  largest  of  which  contains  the  remains  of  rooms. 
Another  rectangular  building  seems  to  have  been  a  reservoir  for  water. 
10th  Day.  Arrival  at  Sikket  Bender,  near  the  temple  of  Berenike. 
The  town  of  Berenike  (Berenice),  situated  in  the  same  latitude  as 
Assuan,  was  founded  in  275  B.C.  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  who  revived 
the  commerce  of  the  Red  Sea  by  the  establishment  of  several  new  ports. 
The  town,  which  was  named  by  Ptolemy  after  his  mother,  was  the  ter- 
minus of  the  main  desert-routes  from  Egypt,  and  for  400  or  500  years  was 
the  entrepot  of  a  marine  commerce  carried  on  mainly  with  Arabia  and 
India.  The  ruins,  still  extant,  surround  the  Temple,  which  faces  the 
E.N.E.  In  front  is  a  forecourt  iS'/z  ft-  in  width  and  12  ft.  in  depth, 
which  was  adjoined  by  the  temple  proper  (inner  length  31  ft.),  com- 
prising two  rows  of  apartments.  The  representation  on  the  left  outside 
wall  shows  an  emperor  appearing  before  a  goddess,  who  seems  to  be, 
from  the  legend,  the  tutelary  deity  of  the  green  (i.e.  emerald)  mine. 

The  Emerald  Mines,  '/-'  '"  'l'^  ■^-  "*^  Berenike,  were  worked  by  the 
Arabs  down  to  the  year  7(50  of  the  Hegira  (1370  A.D.),  after  which  they  were 
abandoned.  Mohammed  Ali  made  an  unavailing  attempt  to  re-open  them. 
They  lie  partly  in  the  Wddi  SakHt  and  partly  on  the  Gebel  Ziibara  (4465  ft.), 
14  M.  to  the  N.E.  They  are  best  visited  from  Edfu  (p.  3iS),  but  may, 
like  Berenike,  be  approached  by  following  the  coast  of  the  Arabian  Gulf 
from  Koseir.  The  first  route  diverges  from  the  road  to  Berenike  in  the 
Wddi  Qemdl  (see  above).  To  the  S.  of  the  Oebel  Zubara  lies  the  village  of 
Sakeit  (Sikait),  with  numerous  huts  of  miners  and  a  small  rock-hewn 
temple,  with  a  few  Greek  inscriptions. 

Farther  to  the  N.  (25°  30'  K.  lat.),  in  the  Wddi  Umbdrek,  lie  the  ancient 
gold-mines  of  Umm  Bus,  reopened  by  the  Um  Rus  Gold  Mines  of  Egypt, 
a  British  company.  Hundreds  of  labourers'  huts  are  still  visible  here 
besides  the  ruins  of  about  300  houses  dating  from  a  Grspco-Roman  settle- 
ment (called  by  Ptolemy  Nechesia).  A  light  railway  leads  from  Uram  Rus 
to  (41/2  M.)  the  small  port  of  Mirsa  Umbdrek  or  Merta  Imbarak ,  on  the 
Red  Sea. 

Travellers  going  on  from  Aba  Shar  el-Kibli ,  Kcseir,  or  Berenike  to 
Sinai  (comp.  Baedeker^ i  Palestine  and  Syria)  or  Arabia  cross  the  Red  Sea 
to  one  of  the  ports  on  the  E.  coast,  where  Tilr  (Tor ;  p.  424),  Minat  el-Wej 
(El-Wedj),  Yanbo  (Yainbo)  el-Bah\  a.ai.  Jidda  (Jeddah;  p.  424)  are  called  at 
everv  fortnight  by  the  Khediviail  Mail  Line. 

24* 


378 


26.  The  Western  Oases. 


By  the  term  Oasis  (Egypt,  rvel,  Arab,  el-vidli)  is  generally 
understood  a  fertile  and  inhabited  spot  in  the  midst  of  the  desert. 
More  correctly,  however,  the  oases  are  large  depressions  in  the  de- 
sert-plateau, of  which  a  comparatively  very  small  area  is  really  fer- 
tile, by  far  the  larger  portion  being  desert.  The  fertility  of  the  oases 
depends  upon  the  existence  of  a  water-supply  lying  in  a  stratum  of 
sandstone,  from  300  to  550  ft.  below  the  surface,  and  rendered  avail- 
able either  by  natural  springs  .or  by  deep  artesian  wells.  Fertile 
land,  therefore,  is  usually  found  in  the  lowest  parts  of  an  oasis. 

The  live  Egyptian  oases,  situate!  in  the  Libyan  Desert  (comp. 
p.  Ixx),  have  an  aggregate  population  of  38,000.  Khdrgeh  is  connected 
with  the  Nile  valley  by  railway,  and  is  therefore  easily  visited;  the 
oihera  (Slweh,  Tiahr7y€h,  Fardfra.  and  Ddkhleh}  are  reached  by  camel- 
caravans  (romp.  p.  XXV ). 

Siweh. 

The  Oasis  of  Siweh  (Slum),  the  Atvmonium  or  seat  of  the  oracle 
of  Jupiter  Ammon,  is  the  most  westerly  of  the  oases  and  lies  15-20 
days'  journey  from  the  Nile  valley.  The  best  starting-points  for  a  visit 
to  this  spot  are  Cairo  and  Alexandria,  where  also  the  caravan  can 
be  organized.  The  route  from  Cairo  leads  via  Ahii  Rodsh  (p.  139)  to 
the  Convent  of  St.  Macarius  (Deir  Abu  Makar,  p.  32)  in  the  Wadi 
Natron,  and  thence  to  the  W.  to  the  uninhabited  depression  of 
Moghara,  7-8  days  from  Cairo.  In  7  days  more,  proceeding  via  Blr 
(Iharddlk  and  Wddi  Letheileh  ,  we  reach  the  small  oasis  of  Odra, 
or  Umm  es-Sughair  [i.e.  'the  wliite  mother).  The  little  village,  which 
has  about  fourscore  inhabitants  ,  occupies  a  low  limestone  rock. 
Thence  3  days'  march  brings  us  to  Siweh.  —  From  Alexandria  we 
may  follow  the  caravan-route  to  the  S.W.  via  the  City  of  St.  Menus 
(p.  28)  to  join  the  Cairo  route  at  Moghara  (see  above).  Or  we  may 
send  the  camels  on  to  Ed-Daba'  (p.  29),  join  them  there  by  means 
of  the  Maryfit  railway  (p.  27),  and  go  on  to  the  seaport  of  Mirsa 
Matruli  (p.  29)  in  two  days.  Thence  the  caravan-route,  known  as  the 
Sikket  es-Sultan  (•sultan  road")  or  Sikket  Istabl  ('stable  road'),  the 
route  followed  by  Alexander  the  Great  (p.  29),  leads  to  Siweh  In 
7  days,  via  the  Wddi  Rami  and  B'lr  Goaiferi  and  thence  through  the 
Pass  of  Kanais  and  past  several  wells  to  the  Eds  el-Hamrayeh. 

The  Oasis  of  Shceh  lies  about  78  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea, 
in  N.  lat.  29"12'  and  E.  long.  25"30'.  After  the  visit  of  Pausanias, 
the  Greek  traveller,  in  160  A. D.,  the  first  European  to  penetrate  to 
this  oasis  was  Browne  (p.  126)  in  1792,  who  may  thus  rank  as  the 
vediscoverer  of  the  Ammonium.  The  inhabitants  (3884  in  number) 
are  chiefly  Berbers  and,  like  the  Berbers  of  North  Africa,  have  a 
language  of  their  own,  though  the  men  speak  and  understand  Arabic 
also.    Besides  a  number  of  smaller  settlements  there  are  two  large 


^T^  Wadi  — 


L  adjjj^s 


E=^ 


.Ucl<l(/     ^ 


^ 


Biirket  Qjjl'uti,  - 


Badn^i 


Jei."  iif^  cl-Teir        -^ 


,  .     -  \    ClTni         V- 


.'5 

afra  Oasis 


"■Belli  Uasan 


\H''Agol"'      TKfiirlu 


A-z/tJ/"  (//■■Tell  el-Amaiita      .    - 

\'^S<;-\bu  Foda 
Af(Ul/iitiit^t  ifi<»^'•/■/;n^^r-;«•.■ 

ifl-Badari 
JS'i, 

Ta: 


W^ 


G.KulVa    j 
G.lTmSidr 


BdhtJ  inMii 


X  Ba/i^ftii^ 


l-CailUaiiti  Q^ 

srDsLkhl 


G.  Rami  ifUrj^^iO 


BRIIfLTga 

KHA&ck'bA^IS 


tabeifa 


TMJ  i,    NIIJLE 

roni  Cairo  lo  Aswan 

and  A-o— • 

The  Western  Oases     <-/j^^ 

1  :  5.000.000 

1— < ?      .      V .i-J°Knglisli  Miles 

■     t^<">   T^r  Tn^r   r^°Kilomelres 
Cultii-atcd  land  bCoptic  Monastery- 
Jpriruf.Jt'etl  Heights  in  Metres 


yaqtid 
THEBESKfK7-/i,M 

Jel  Tiul     ''-Ve 


fSnisl-AJuruw  ■'• 


errors; 


vH 


■  A  Tlpbcs'  Gco|r.F.slabl'.  Leipzig 


I  \AinX 


KHARGEH.  ^6.  Route.   379 

villages,  built  upuii  isolated  rocks,  viz.  Stweh  and  Aghurmi.  Date- 
palms  and  olive-trees  are  the  chief  support  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  most  important  relics  of  antiquity  are  the  rock -tombs  of  the 
Kuril  el- Mjisabbertn  (Gehei  eL- Mula)^  near  Siweh;  the  temple  of 
Ayhunni  (now  almost  entirely  taken  up  by  modern  dwellings),  in 
which  we  may  recogirize  the  seat  of  the  oracle  of  Jupiter  Ammon; 
and  the  almost  wholly  destroyed  temple  at  Vmmebeida^  1/2  .^• 
from  Aghurmi. 

Travellers  are  recommended  to  return  to  the  S.E.  via  the  oasis 
of  Bahriyeh  (see  below)  to  the  Faiyflm  or  the  Nile  valley. 

Comp.  A,  Silva  While's  From  Sphinx  to  Oracle:  through  the  Libyan 
Desert  to  the  Oasis  of  Jupiter  Ammon  (London,  1899)  and  Steindorff's 
l>urch  die  Liliysche  Wiiste  zur  Aiiiousoase  (Leipzig,  1904). 

Bahriyeh. 

The  Oasis  of  Bahbiykh  {Baharia;  'the  northern'),  or  Oasis  of 
Behnesa  (  Wdh  el-Behnesa) ,  the  'Little  Oasis'  of  the  ancients.  Is 
reached  in  S'/a^^^iys  from  Medinet  el-Faiyum  (comp.  pp.  193,  197) 
or  in  3-4  days  from  Maghagha  (p.  207).  A  desert-route  leads  also 
in  4  days  from  Behnesa  (p.  207)  to  Bahriyeh.  The  oasis  is  about 
11  M.  long  and  S'/'i  M.  broad  and  is  situated  in  N.  lat.  28°23'  and 
K.  long.  28''19'.  The  population  numbers  6773.  The  chief  villages 
are  El-Kasr  (635  ft.)  and  Bawlli  (370  ft.),  to  the  E.  of  which  are 
the  hamlets  of  Mendlslich  and  Zabu.  The  remains  of  antiquity  in 
this  oasis  are  very  scanty. 

Comp.  Ball  <t  /leadnell's  Baharia  Oasis,  its  Topography  and  Gcdlo'^iy 
(Cairo,  1903;  20  pias.)  and  f^leindorff's  vulume  uientioued  above. 

Farafra. 

The  Oasis  of  Farafra  (230  ft.),  with  632  inhab.,  is  of.  little  im- 
portance except  as  a  station  on  the  route  between  Bahriyeh  and 
Dakhleh  (p.  382).  It  lies  about  5  days'  march  (ca.  72  M.)  to  the 
N.N.  \V.  of  the  latter.  Assiut  (p.  232)  is  the  best  starting-point  for 
a  visit  from  Egypt  (8-10  days),  but  the  oasis  is  frequently  visited 
also  from  Manfalut  (p.  218). 

Comp.  BeadnelVs  Faral'ra  Oasi.«,  its  Topography  and  Geology  (Cairn 
1801;  15  pias.). 

Khargeh. 

The  Oa.sis  of  Khaugku  ( Khanja)  is  connected  by  the  Western 
Oases  Railway^  122  M.  in  length,  with  Khargeh  Junction,  on  the 
line  from  Cairo  to  Luxor  (p.  222).  A  visit  to  it  is  highly  recom- 
mended to  travellers  who  are  attracted  by  the  prospect  of  a  railway 
journey  through  the  desert  and  an  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  scenery  and  life  of  an  oasis.  The  railway  was  purchased 
by  government  in  1909  from  the  Corporation  of  Western  Egypt 
(p.  380). 


380    UouU  26.  KHAKGEH.  Western  Oaien. 

There  are  two  trains  weekly  in  each  direction  in  O-D'/jhrs. :  from  Khar- 
geh  Junction  on  Tues.  ti  Frid.,  returning  from  El-Khargeh  on  Jlon.  <fe  Thurs. 
(1st  cl.  fare  to  Headquarters  78  pias.)-  The  evening  express  train  from 
Cairo  connects  at  Khargeh  Juni-tion  with  the  oasis  train  (from  Cairo  to  the 
junction,  334'/2M.,  fares  173,  86V2  pias.).  Previous  notice  should  be  given, 
as  the  rest-house  at  Headquarters  is  often  overcrowded.  —  Those  who  reach 
the  junction  at  other  times  {e.g.  coming  from  Luxor)  proceed  by  a  trolley, 
which  must  be  ordered  in  advance,  to  El-Kara  (see  below)  and  spend 
the  night  there. 

Diverging  from  the  Cairo  and  Luxor  line  at  lOiargeh  Junction  or 
O ash  Junction  i^Muadet  el-Khargeh;  p.  222),  the  Oases  Railway  runs 
to  the  W.,  at  tirst  through  cultivated  land  but  afterwards  ascending 
towards  the  desert,  to  (3'/2  M.)  El-Kara  {^Qara;  good  nightquarters 
and  entertainment  in  the  railway  rest-house,  4  beds,  pens.  70  pias.). 
A  halt  for  breakfast  is  made  here.  The  line  follows  the  edge  of 
the  cultivated  land  a  little  farther,  then  strikes  oiT  into  the  desert, 
gradually  ascending  through  a  valley  narrowing  as  we  ascend  and 
flanked  by  picturesque  rocks.  At  25  M.  the  plateau  is  reached,  and 
a  boundless  sea  of  gravelly  desert  extends  on  every  hand,  giving 
place  farther  on  to  a  rocky  waste.  After  90  M.  the  railway  begins 
to  descend  through  a  rocky  valley  of  peculiar  beauty.  It  then  crosses 
a  wirle  plain  and  at  (106  M.)  Meherik  (Mahariq),  where  the  first 
vegetation  appears,  reaches  the  level  of  the  oasis.  —  112  M.  Head- 
(juarters  ( Markaz  esh-Shartkeh)  ^  with  a  good  rest-house  (8  K.,  pen.«. 
70  pias.),  is  the  seat  of  the  Corporation  of  Western  Egypt  (see 
below).  The  Gebel  Ghenneima  (p.  ;}82)  is  seen  in  the  distance,  about 
5V2  M.  to  the  E.  —  Near  (119  M.)  Nadura  are  the  most  important 
ruins  of  antiquity  (see  p.  381).  —  122  M,  Kharijeh  (Kharga),  or 
El-Khargeh  (190  ft.),  with  5362  inhab.,  fine  palms,  and  two 
mosques,  is  the  chief  town  in  the  oasis.  The  government  building 
(markaz)  and  the  post-offlce  are  situated  in  the  principal  square. 
Part  of  the  town  is  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  dark  lanes,  roofed  over 
with  palm-trunks  or  palm-branches  daubed  with  mud. 

Donkeys  (12  pias.  per  day)  and  Camels  (20  pias.  ;  per  half-day  12  pias.) 
may  be  hired  at  Headquarters.  Trolleys^  running  on  the  railway  line,  cost 
for  the  journey  from  Headquarters  to  El-Khargeh  and  back  15  pias.  when 
drawn  by  mules  iir  25  pias.  when  pushed  by  men. 

The  Oasis  of  Khuryeh,  the  'Southern  Oasis'  of  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tians, the  'Great  Oasis'  of  the  Greeks,  forms  a  district  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Assiut.  It  is  about  185  M.  long  and  20-50  M.  broad,  and 
is  situated  iuN.  lat.  25°26'  and  E.  long.  30"33'.  The  population 
numbers  8383.  Like  all  the  oases  Khargeh  is  surrounded  by  a  toler- 
ably steep  chain  of  cretaceous  limestone  hills,  which  rises  in  terraces 
to  the  height  of  1410  ft.  on  the  side  next  the  desert.  Thanks  to  numer- 
ous springs  issuing  freely  from  clefts  in  the  cretaceous  marl,  the  oasis 
was  extremely  fertile  in  antiquity  and  contained  many  towns  and 
settlements,  whose  ruins  exist  to  this  day.  Even  in  ancient  times 
Khargeh  was  connected  by  a  caravan-road  with  Abydos  (p.  237). 
In  the  middle  ages,  however,  its  prosperity  waned.  At  the  present 
time  an  effort  is  being  made  by  the  Corporation  of  Western  Egypt, 


Western  Oaies.  KilAKGElI.  26.  lioule.   381 

a  company  which  built  the  railway,  to  extend  the  area  of  cultivation 
by  boring  artesian  wells.  About  40  such  wells  have  already  been 
sunk,  by  whicli  nearly  1000  acres  have  been  reclaimed  from  the 
desert.  Cotton  is  the  chief  crop  in  summer,  wheat  and  barley  in 
winter.  Vines,  bananas,  and  vegetables  of  various  kinds  are  grown 
also.  But  the  main  wealth  of  the  oasis  still  consists  in  its  date-palms, 
about  40,000  in  nninher. 

Visitors  who  spend  only  one  day  in  the  oasis  should  visit  the  Christian 
necropolis,  the  tiiuiple  nCUibis,  the  town  of  KhSrgeh,  and,  if  time  permit, 
the  temple  of  Nadur.-i  und  the  Ooptie  convent.  Visitors  with  more  time 
will  find  the  irrigation-system  and  cultivation  of  the  oasis  of  interest. 

Couip.  Ball's  Khar^a  Oasis,  its  'J'opography  and  Geology  (Cairo,  1900; 
25  pias  )  and  ISeadnelVs  An  Egyptian  Oasis  (London,  1909;  lOs.^d.). 

The  chief  Ruins  in  the  N.  part  of  the  oasi.-,  which  may  be  con- 
veniently visited  from  Nadura  (p.  1-580),  are  those  of  the  large  — 

Temple  of  Hibis ,  picturesquely  situated  in  a  grove  of  palms. 
10  min.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  station.  This  temple,  built  by  Darius  I 
in  honour  of  Amon  (comp.  pp.  cvi,  clxvi),  was  excavated  by  the 
archaeological  expedition  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  New  York  in 
1909-11  and  has  been  restored  by  the  Egyptian  Department  of  An- 
tiquities. The  axis  of  the  temple  runs  E.  and  W.,  and  the  building  is 
approached  through  four  gateways.  On  the  right  wing  of  the  second 
gateway  is  a  Greek  inscription  of  66  lines,  dating  from  the  2nd  year 
of  the  Roman  emperor  Galba (69  A. D.).  We  enter  the  temple  through 
a  Colonnade,  built  by  Nektanehes  (378-361  B.C.),  which  is  adjoined 
by  a  Colonnaded  Court.  Beyond  tliese  are  a  Vestibule  (pronaos)  and 
the  small  Hyp ostyle Hall,  borne  by  eight  columns.  A  staircase  to  the 
left  leads  to  a  chamber  dedicated  to  the  cult  of  Osiris.  In  the  Sanc- 
tuary, in  the  main  axis,  are  some  interesting  representations  of  gods 
(Astarte  on  horseback,  Astarte  with  bow  and  arrows,  etc.).  To  the  left 
is  a  staircase  ascending  to  the  roof,  to  the  right  is  a  small  chamber 
with  a  representation  of  the  god  Khnum  shaping  the  king  on  the 
potter's  wheel.  —  On  a  hill,  20  min.  to  the  S.E.,  is  the  — 

Temple  of  Nadura,  which  dates  from  the  time  of  Antoninus  Pius 
(138-161  A.D.)  and  is  surrounded  by  a  lofty  brick  wall.  The  pro- 
naos, which  was  separated  from  the  forecourt  on  the  E.  by  columns 
connected  by  stone  screens,  is  in  good  preservation.  —  The  trigono- 
metrical survey  mark  beside  the  temple  commands  an  excellent  view 
of  the  N.  portion  of  the  oasis.  —  On  a  ridge  about  ^/o  M.  to  the  N. 
of  the  temple  of  ilibis  is  the  — 

'Christian  Necropolis,  in  which  are  several  hundred  brick  tombs. 
Most  of  these  are  arranged  on  either  side  of  a  broad  avenue.  The 
typical  tomb  consists  of  a  domed  chamber,  frequently  with  an  E. 
apse  and  side-recesses,  and  a  vestibule;  the  larger  tombs  are  practi- 
cally miniature  basilicas.  The  facades  are  not  unfrequently  adorned 
with  pilasters  or  semi-columns  and  contain  triangular  recesses  for 
the  reception  of  lamps.  Few  of  the  internal  decorations  are  pre- 
served ;  in  one  tomb  is  a  representation  of  Daniel  in  the  den  of  lions, 


382    Route  '26.  DAKHLEU. 

another  has  sceues  from  biblical  hibtory.  —  Between  the  temple  and 
the  necropolis  lie  the  — 

Ruins  of  the  Roman  Town- of  Hibis  (Egypt.  Hibet),  Some  of  the 
houses  of  which  are  in  good  preservation.  —  About  1/2  M.  to  the  N. 
of  the  necropolis  stands  the  — 

Christian  Convent  (Kasr  'Ain  Mustafa  Kdshif),  a  brick  structure 
in  admirable  preservation.  The  entrance,  on  the  N.  side,  is  protected 
by  a  lofty  square  tower.  In  the  W.  half  are  the  monks'  cells,  with 
\aulted  roofs,  arranged  one  above  the  other  in  several  stories,  in  the 
E.  half  are  the  refectory,  the  common  room,  the  chapel,  etc. 

An  expedition  to  the  Roman  Fort  of  Ed-Deir  is  recommended. 
This  lies  about  7  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Headquarters  (IV2  l'^"-  by  trotting- 
camel),  on  the  caravan-route  to  Girgeli  (p.  221).  The  large  fort  is 
provided  with  round  towers;  on  the  N.  side  is  a  temple.  There  are 
other  ruins  in  the  vicinity,  and  i^j^  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  flat-topped 
Gebei  Ohenneiina  or  Gennihma  (1270  ft.),  the  highest  point  in  the 
oasis  (view). 

Excursions  to  the  South  Portions  of  the  Oasis  are  practicable 
only  for  those  who  know  Arabic  or  who  bring  a  dragoman  with  them 
from  Cairo  or  Luxor.  Camels  and  other  necessaries  may  be  obtained 
from  the  Corporation  of  Western  Egypt  at  lleadiiuarters  (p.  380).  — 
About  ^fn\a.y''&  march  brings  us  to  the  village  and  ruins  (Ptolemaic 
temple)  of  Knsr  el-Glnieida,  situated  about  the  middle  of  the  oasis,  to 
the  S.  of  the  Kurn  el-Gennah.  About  2l/oM.  farther  on  is  the  village 
i)i  Kasr 'Ain  tz-Zuiijun  (Qasr  Zaiyan)^  near  which,  within  a  lofty 
girdle-wall  of  brick,  lie  a  precinct  covered  with  small  brick  huts  and 
a  temple  of  red  sandstone  adorned  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions. 
A  journey  of  I'/o-"^  I'^ys  to  the  S.  from  this  point,  via  the  large 
village  of  Birh  (Barls)  or  Rerys  (170  ft. ;  inn  to  the  E.  of  the  village) 
and  El-Maks,  brings  us  to  the  Kasr  Dusk,  the  Kysis  of  the  ancients, 
with  a  large  temple  of  the  Komaii  imperial  epoch.  There  is  another 
brick  temple  in  the  vicinity. 

Dakhleh. 

The  Oasis  of  Dakhleh  (Dakhia,  Dakhel),  the  most  populous  of 
the  oates  (18,368  inhab.),  is  situated  in  N.  lat.  25°24'  and  E.  long. 
28''54',  43  M.  to  the  W.  of  Khargeh,  and  may  be  reached  from  the 
town  of  El-Khargch  in  3  days'  marches.  From  Assiut  (p.  232)  it  is 
reached  in  about  7  days.  The  chief  places  in  the  oasis  are  El-Kusr 
(3U00  inhab.),  GedUeh  (2536  inhab.),  Balat  (2219  inhab.), 'aiJd 
Kalamun  (2000  inhab.).  About  2  hrs.  to  the  S.W.  of  El-Kasr  is  a 
large  ruined  temple  of  the  Roman  imperial  era. 

Comp.  BeadnelVs  Dakhla  Oasis,  i(s  Topi  graphv  and  Geoli  gy  (Cairo 
1901;  20  piaa.). 


LOWER  NUBIA. 


Route  Page 

Preliminary  Information 383 

Land  and  People.  —  History 384,  385 

27.  From  Shellal  (Phila;)  to  Kalabslah 887 

28.  From  Ivalabsheh  to  Korosko 393 

29.  From  Korosko  to  Abu  Simbel 399 

30.  The  Kock  Temples  of  Abu  Simbel 404 

31.  From  Abu  Simbel  to  Wadi  Haifa 410 

Excnrsions  from  Wadi  Haifa 412 


Tickets  of  Admission  to  the  antiquities,  see  p.  200.  —  As 
Shellal  (Philae)  is  not  yet  united  by  railway  witli  Wadi  Haifa,  visitors 
to  Lower  Nubia  are  practically  dependent  upon  the  steamboats.  The 
journey  by  land,  on  camels  or  donkeys,  is  fatiguing  and  by  no  means 
recommended;  and  the  costly  dahabiyeh  (p.  204)  will  be  employed, 
only  by  travellers  with  special  aims,  sui:h  as  archieologists  or  painters 

Steamboats.  Regular  communication  between  Shellal  and  Wadi 
Haifa  is  maintained  by  the  Sudan  Government  Express  Stkamers 
Sudan  and  Britain,  which  leave  Shellal,  in  connection  with  the  train 
from  Cairo  and  Luxor,  about  7  p.m.  on  Tues.  and  Thurs.,  taking  about 
42  hrs.,  and  from  mid- Jan.  to  mid-March  also  by  the  Ibis,  leaving 
on  Sun.  at  6  a.m.,  taking  32  hrs.  The  return-journey  is  made  from 
Haifa,  starting  at  about  11  p.m.  on  Friil.  and  Sun.,  in  34  hrs.  (also 
on  Tues,  from  mid- Jan.  to  mid-March).  The  boats  are  stern- 
wheelers  and  are  excellently  fitted  up.  Allowing  II/2  ^^y  i"  Haifa 
in  order  to  visit  the  Second  Cataract,  the  round  trip  can  be  accom- 
plished in  4'/2"5  days.  The  fares  in  either  direction  are  1st  cl.  £E  4, 
50  pias.,  'ind  cl.  (for  European  servants)  j£E  2,  50  pias.,  besides 
a  daily  charge  of  70  pias.  1st  cl.,  40  pias.  2nd  cl.,  for  provisions. 
There  is  no  reduction  on  return-tickets.  Luggage  is  charged  16mil- 
liemes  per  10  kilogrammes  (ca.  4c/.  per  22  lbs.).  Although  these 
steamers  make  no  halt  of  any  duration  except  at  Haifa,  travellers 
who  are  not  specially  interested  in  archieology  will  obtain  a  suffi- 
ciently adequate  idea  of  the  scenery  of  Nubia  on  this  voyage.  There 
is  usually  a  short  halt  at  Abu  Simbel  (p.  404)  on  the  return- voyage. — 
There  is  also  a  mail-service  maintained  by  smaller,  so-called  'inter- 
mediate'steamers,  leaving  Shellal  oti  Mon.  and  (except,  from  mid- 
Jan,  to  mid -March)  on  Frid.  and  calling  at  some  or  all  of  the 
24  intermediate  stations.  These  return  from  Haifa  on  Sat.  and  (ex- 
cept from  mid-Jan.  to  mid-March  )  on  Wed.;  fares  in  either  direction 
1st  cl.  j£E  3,  50  pias.,  2nd  cl.  S,  E  2,  in  addition  to  a  daily  charge 


384  LOWER  NUBIA.      rrcUminary  Information. 

for  provisions.    Information  and  time-tables  may  be  obtained  on 
application  to  the  tourist-agents  at  Cairo  (p.  38). 

Tourist  Steamers.  Travellers  who  desire  to  inspect  the  ruined 
sites  of  Nubia  more  closely  will  avail  themselves  of  one  of  the 
tourist-steamers  which  devote  a  week  to  the  round  trip  (fare  20i. ; 
return-fare  from  Cairo  by  steamer  all  the  way,  from  45f.,  comp. 
p.  201).  Messrs.  Cook's  steamers  Thebes  (42  berths)  and  Prince 
Abbas  (44  berths)  leave  Shellal  respectively  every  Moii.  from  Dec. 
to  the  middle  of  March  and  every  Wed.  in  Jan.  and  Feb.;  while 
the  Niibia  (42  berths)  of  the  Hamburg  &  Anglo- American  Nile  Co. 
leaves  Shellal  every  Wed.  from  Christmas  to  the  middle  of  March. 

In  consequence  of  the  heightening  of  the  dam  at  Assuan  (p.  371) 
the  Nile  banks  in  Northern  Nubia  will  be  under  water  during  the 
season  and  most  of  the  temples  will  be  inaccessible  (comp.  pp.  387, 
393).  White  marks  on  the  rocks  indicate  the  highest  levels  hitherto 
reached  by  the  river.  In  summer  and  autumn  all  the  ruins  will  be 
above  water. 

The  Itinerary  of  Cook's  steamers  announced  for  1913-14  is  as 
follows ;  that  of  the  Hamburg  &  Anglo-American  Nile  Co.  differs 
from  it  in  only  a  few  unimportant  details. 

1st  Day.  Start  from  Shellal  (Philae)  at  9.30  a.m.  Past  Debod, 
Kertassi,  and  Kalabsheh  (the  temple  is  visited  on  the  return-jour- 
ney) to  Dendi'ir  (visit  to  the  temple,  p.  393)  and  then  on  to  Gerf- 
llusein  (p.  394),  where  the  temple  is  visited  in  the  evening. 

"Jnd  Day.  Via  Sebu'a  (inspection  of  the  temple)  and  past  Ko- 
rosko  to'Amada  (inspection  of  the  temple,  p.  399),  then  past  Derr 
to  Kasr  Ibrtm  (view  of  sunset  from  the  hill). 

3rd  Day.  To  Abu  Simbel,  reached  about  noon.  Visit  to  the 
temples,  pp.  404  et  seq. 

dth  Day.   To  Wadi  Haifa  (p.  411),  arriving  about  1  p.m. 

5th  Day.  Excursion  to  the  Second  Cataract  (p.  412)  in  the  morn- 
ing.   Inspection  of  the  town  and  its  bazaar  in  the  afternoon. 

6th  Day.  Return -jourTiey  begins.  Voyage  to  Gebel  Addeh 
(p.  410),  where  the  rock-temple  is  visited,  and  thence  to  Dakkeh 
(p.  395)  or  to  some  point  still  farther  to  the  N. 

7th  Day.  Past  Dendur  to  Kalabsheh  (inspection  of  the  temples, 
pp.  389  et  seq.)  and  to  Shellal,  arriving  in  the  afternoon. 

Land  and  People.  Nubia  (Arab.  Bildd  cl-Barcibra')  extends 
from  the  First  Cataract  to  Merowe  (p.  420),  i.e.  to  18°  N.  latitude. 
It  is  divided  into  Lower  Nubia  (from  Philae  to  Haifa)  and  Upper 
Nubia  (from  Haifa  southwards).  Politically,  the  portion  to  the  N. 
of  Faras  (p.  411)  belongs  to  the  Egyptian  mudiriyeh  of  Assuan, 
in  which  it  forms  the  district  of  Derr.  The  rest  of  Lower  Nubia 
and  the  whole  of  Upper  Nubia  has,  since  its  reconquest  in  1898 
( p.oxxv),  beenplaced  underthe  administration  of  the  Anglo-Egyptian 
vSiidan.  In  Tjower  Nubia  the  cultivable  area  is  seldom  more  than  a 
few  hundred  yards  in  width;  and  at  not  a  few  points,  especially  on 


History.  LOWER  NUBIA.  385 

the  W.  bank,  the  desert  advances  clear  up  to  the  riTer-brink.  The 
population  is  ia  consequence  very  scanty,  viz.  96,500  in  1^97. 
Comp.  p.  Ix.  —  All  the  countries  on  the  Upper  Nile ,  from  the 
borders  of  Egypt  southwards,  were  included  by  the  ancient  Egyptians 
under  the  single  name  of  Kosh,  the  Cttsh  of  the  Bible.  The  Greeks 
and  Romans  called  thom  Ethiopia.  Lower  Nubia  was  more  particularly 
known  to  the  Egyptians  as  the  land  of  Scti  and  consisted,  as  it  does 
to-day,  of  a  number  of  separate  districts  (^e.g.  the  land  of  Weirei). 
The  present  inhabitants  of  Nubia  are  more  faithful  to  their  ancient 
manners  and  customs  than  the  Egyptians.  When  the  huge  storage- 
lake,  extending  far  into  Northern  Nubia,  was  formed  by  the  dam  at 
Assuan,  the  villages  within  its  basin  were  either  deserted  or  re- 
moved to  the  heights.  This  fact  accounts  for  the  numerous  ruined 
villages  seen  under  water  or  on  the  edge  of  the  lake  (comp.  p.  384). 
History.  Lower  Nubia,  whence  the  Egyptians  procured  their 
supplies  of  incense  and  other  products  of  the  Sudan,  is  mentioned 
in  some  of  the  earliest  Egyptian  texts.  Its  relations  with  Egypt  were 
still  closer  under  the  kings  of  the  6th  Dyn.,  who  there  enlisted  negro 
mercenaries,  while  the  princes  of  Elephantine  dispatched  great 
trading  expeditions  to  the  lands  of  the  Upper  Nile.  But  it  was  not 
until  the  period  of  the  12th  Dyn.  that  the  conquest  of  Nubia  was 
undertaken  and  the  borders  of  Egypt  advanced  to  Semneh  (p.  413). 
In  order  to  guard  the  newly  acquired  possessions  against  the  attacks 
of  the  negroes  a  chain  of  forts  was  erected  in  the  rocky  valley  of  Batn 
cl-Hagar  (p.  412),  with  its  numerous  cataracts,  between  Haifa  and 
Semneh.  From  this  base  the  Pharaohs  of  the  18th  Dyn.  penetrated 
still  farther  to  the  S.  and  made  themselves  masters  of  the  land  of 
Kosh  as  far  as  Napnta  (p.  419),  which  then  became  the  southernmost 
city  of  the  empire.  The  conquered  regions  were  incorporated  with 
the  southernmost  department  of  Egypt  proper,  which  began  at  El-Kab 
(p.  333),  and  the  whole  of  the  great  province  thus  formed  was  placed 
under  an  official  who  bore  the  title  of  'Prince  of  Kosh  and  Governor 
of  the  Southern  Lands'.  Under  the  established  rule  of  Egypt  Nubia 
rapidly  prospered;  new  towns  were  founded,  and  beautiful  temples, 
little  inferior  in  size  and  embellishment  to  those  of  the  motherland, 
arose  in  profusion,  especially  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Nile,  which 
was  safer  from  the  attacks  of  the  E.  Beduins.  Most  of  these  temples 
were  dedii-atcd  to  the  great  Egyptian  gods,  Anion,  Re-Harakhte, 
and  Ptah ;  but  iu  some  of  them  other  deities  also  were  worshipped, 
such  as  Isis  and  others  of  the  ICgyptian  gods,  the  local  Nubian  god 
Tetun,  the  deceased  King  Sesostris  IlL,  who  united  the  roles  of 
first  conqueror  and  patron-saint  of  Nubia,  and  occasionally  also  the 
reigning  king  and  queen  (pp.  395,  398,  404,  408,  409).  The  temple 
inscriptions  were  composed  in  the  Egyptian  language  and  written 
in  the  Egyptian  character,  and  Egyptian  became  the  official  lan- 
guage, although  the  great  mass  of  the  people  adhered  to  their  native 
Nubian  tongue. 


386  LOWER  NDBIA. 

Nubia  continued  to  be  a  dependency  of  the  PJiaraohs  until  about 
1100  B.C.  But  when  the  power  of  Egypt  waned  under  the  21st  Dyn. 
(p.  civ)  Nubia  shook  off  her  allegiance  and  a  native  Ethiopian 
MoNAECHY  was  established,  with  Napata  as  its  capital  (p.  419 ).  But 
the  civilization  of  this  kingdom  continued  to  be  Egyptian ;  and  its 
monarchs,  who  were  dependent  on  the  priests,  regarded  themselves 
as  the  true  protectors  of  the  Egyptian  religion  and  as  the  legitimate 
rulers  of  Egypt.  About  730  B.C.  tlie  Ethiopian  Piankhi  (p.  civ) 
temporarily  overran  all  Egypt,  and  shortly  afterwards  an  Ethiopian 
dynasty  (the  25th;  p.  cv)  established  itself  firmly  on  the  Egyptian 
throne.  But  in  little  more  than  a  century  (about  663  B.C.)  these 
Kthiopian  Pharaohs  were  forced  to  give  way  before  the  Assyrians, 
and  their  kingdom  was  restricted  to  Nubia,  of  which  the  N.  border 
then  lay  near  Phila;  (Konosso,  p.  371). 

The  Egyptian  civilization  gradually  declined  in  Nubia.  The 
Egyptian  hieroglyphic  writing  became  corrupted  and  a  native  Meroi- 
tic  hieroglyphic  and  cursive  character  was  developed  (p.  cxxxi), 
which,  about  the  beginning  of  the  Christian  era,  began  to  he  used 
for  writing  the  native  Nubian  language  even  in  official  documents. 
About  600  B.C.  the  royal  residence  was  transferred  from  Napata  to 
Mero'd  (p.  422),  which  lay  farther  to  the  S.  Comparatively  full 
information  has  come  down  to  us  concerning  the  earlier  kings  who 
dwelt  at  Meroe.  We  know  also  of  the  unsuccessful  campaign  of  the 
army  of  Fsaimneiichos II.  against  Lower  Nubia  (about  590  B.C.)  and 
of  the  attempts  of  Cambyses  (525  B.C.)  to  conquer  Ethiopia,  which 
were  foiled  mainly  by  the  energetic  Ethiopian  King  Nmtesen. 
After  that  an  almost  impenetrable  veil  falls  over  the  history  of  the 
country. 

During  the  Ptolemaic  and  Roman  Imperial  Epochs  the  S. 
boundary  of  Egypt  was  near  Hierasykaminos  (p.  397),  and  it  was 
occasionally  pushed  farther  S.  as  far  as  Primis  (p.  402).  On  the 
other  hand  the  Nubians  sometimes  succeeded  in  extending  their 
power  as  far  N.  as  Phils,  and  perhaps  even  occupied  part  of  Upper 
Egypt.  When  the  Romans  first  came  to  Egypt  Ethiopia  was  gov- 
erned by  a  succession  of  queens  named  Candace.  One  of  these 
attacked  the  Roman  province,  but  was  repulsed  by  the  Roman  gov- 
ernor Petronius  in  23  B.C.  The  Ethiopian  kingdom  seems  soon 
afterwards  to  have  fallen  into  disorder  and  to  have  split  np  into  a 
number  of  small  principalities.  About  this  time  also  the  Blem- 
ynyes,  a  nomadic  race  of  the  E.  desert,  who  had  previously  acknow- 
ledged the  suzerainty  of  Ethiopia,  assumed  an  aggressive  attitude. 
Not  content  with  harassing  the  N.  parts  of  Lower  Nubia,  they  car- 
ried their  depredations  also  into  the  Roman  territory  in  S.  Egypt, 
until  finally  the  Romans  gave  way  before  them.  Diocletian  (about 
iiOO  A.D.)  withdrew  from  Nubia  altogether,  retiring  within  the 
bounds  of  ICgypt  proper,  to  the  N.  of  Philie.  The  Blemmyes,  how- 
ever, in  alliance  vi-ith  the  Nubians,  continued  their  attacks  on  Upper 


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DEROI).  27.  Ronff.    387 

Esypt;  bnt  In  451  A.D.  they  were  defeated  by  Marciaji,   who  coii- 
i-.liided  a  peace  witli  them  (p.  364). 

Christianity  established  itself  at  Philae  in  the  4th  cent.,  and 
thence  extended  throughout  Nubia,  where  the  temples  were  con- 
verted into  churches.  In  G40  A.D.  Egypt  and  tlie  Upper  Nile  Valley 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Mohammedans.  'j4Tnr  (p.  cxiii)  penetrated 
as  far  as  Dongola  and  imposed  tribute  upon  Nubia,  but  no  enduring 
subjugation  of  the  country  was  efl'ected.  Shams  ed-D61a,  brother 
of  Saladin,  took  possession  of  the  fortress  of  ihrim  (p.  402)  in  1173 
and  plundered  the  church -treasury;  but  Christianity  yielded  to 
Islam  very  gradually,  and  a  Christian  kingdom  lingered  at  Soba 
on  the  Blue  Nile  (p.  432)  nntil  the  middle  ages.  We  know  little 
of  the  Mohammedan  principalities  established  at  Derr,  Dongola, 
Sennar,  and  other  points  in  Nubia.  In  1821  Isma'il  Pasha  con- 
quered the  whole  of  Nubia  for  his  father,  Mohammed  Ali,  Pasha  of 
Egypt.  For  the  later  history  of  the  country,  the  Mahdist  rebellion, 
and  the  reconquest  by  Kitchener,  see  pp.  cxxiv.  cxxv. 


27.  From  Shellal  (Pliilee)  to  Kalabsheh. 

31  M.  )!T  Steamboat  (comp.  pp  383,  334).  —  Huring  the  winter-season  the 
quarric  and  fort  :it  Kertassi  and  the  temple.s  at  'fafeh  and  Koldhsheh  will 
lie  flooded  and  therefore  inaceessiblo,  except  in  some  cases  by  small  boat. 

As  we  leave  Shellal  (p.  .^(i3)  we  have  a  line  view  of  the  mined 
temples  of  Philae  { p.  3t55 )  and  of  the  rocks  of  Bigysh  (p.  370).  To  the 
S.W.  of  Biggeh  lies  El-IIe.'<s(h  (Hem),  the  largest  of  the  cataract-is- 
lands, where  the  cemetery  of  the  priests  of  Fhilre  was  discovered.  On 
the  E.  bank  are  the  villages  of  El-BCih  and  Bdl<U  (El-Meshhed),  with 
picturesque  ancient  mosques.  On  the  rocks  above  Belial  is  a  sheikh's 
tomb.  —  On  the  E.  bank,  opposite  the  S.  eml  of  J'21-Hesseh,  is  a 
rock-inscription  of  Pliiops  I.,  relating  to  his  victory  over  the  Nubians. 

At  El-(rudhi  the  river  bends  to  the  S.W.,  afterwards  returning 
to  its  S.  direction.  The  scenery  becomes  less  wild,  and  a  narrow 
strip  of  verdure  appears  on  each  bank.  —  To  the  W.  is  the  Gebel 
Sheimet  el-Wcih.  From  time  to  time  we  observe  ancient  dykes  of 
huge  stones  (  on  both  banks),  and  on  the  summits  of  the  higher  hills 
are  ruined  guard-houses,  dating  from  the  Mahdi.st  insurrection. 

d^/oM.  Behoi  (Dahod) ,  a  village -community  on  both  banks. 
On  the  W.  bank  are  traces  of  an  ancient  quay  and  the  — 

Temple  ok  Dkbod,  situated  near  the  river.  This  temple  was 
built  by  the  Nubian  kinj:  Ezekher-Amun,  a  contemporary  of  the 
earlier  Ptolemies,  and  it  was  enlarged  by  Ptolemy  Philometor.  From 
a  modern  flight  of  steps  we  pass  through  two  Doorwaiis,  on  the 
second  of  which  appear  the  winged  sun-disk  and  a  Greek  inscription 
in  favour  of  Ptolemy  Philometor  and  his  consort  Cleopatra.  About 
42  ft.  beyond  a  third  doorway  (now  ruined)  is  the  temple  proper. 

Of  the  Vestibule^  the  fai;ade  of  which  was  borne  by  four  columns 


388    Route  27.  TAFEH.  From  Shdldl 

with  rich  floral  capitals,  connected  by  stone  screens,  little  now  re- 
mains. The  reliefs  on  the  facade  show  Augustas  or  Tiberins  in  pres- 
ence of  various  deities.  The  side-walls  of  the  First  Hall  are  decorated 
with  reliefs  in  two  rows,  exhibiting  Ezekher-Amnn  sacrificing  to 
various  deities.  Over  the  door  is  a  votive  inscription  of  the  same 
monarch.  Thence  we  proceed  through  an  Antechamber  (without  de- 
coration) to  the  Sanctuary^  which  contains  ^.Granite  Naos,  dating 
from  Euergetes  II.  and  Cleopatra  (p.  cix).  The  adjoining  chambers 
contain  nothing  of  interest. 

At  Dimri  (W.  bank)  is  an  ancient  wall;  and  on  the  E.  bank 
farther  on  is  the  fragment  of  a  quay-wall,  with  a  staircase.  The 
island  of  Morgos  (Markos),  next  passed,  has  some  picturesque  ruins 
of  houses,  apparently  of  mediaeval  origin. 

171/2  M.  J^ehmU  (Dehmiet),  on  both  banks,  is  a  steamboat  station. 
—  26  M.  Ambarkab,  with  considerable  hamlets  on  both  banks. 

To  the  right  ( W.  bank)  next  appears  the  small  temple  of 
Kertassi  (Oirtas),  an  attractive  building  on  a  rocky  plateau,  recall- 
ing the  'Kiosque'  at  Philae  (p.  370).  It  is  only  25  ft.  square. 
Columns,  connected  by  stone  screens,  once  supported  the  roof,  of 
which  only  a  single  cross-beam  now  remains.  Two  Hathor-columns 
(at  the  entrance,  which  faces  N.)  and  four  other  columns  with  elab- 
orate flower-capitals  (two  on  each  side)  are  now  standing. 

To  the  S.  is  an  embankment  constructed  to  protect  the  valley 
from  inundation,  and  farther  on  are  extensive  ^Sandstone  Quarries, 
which  yielded  the  stone  for  the  temples  at  Philae.  They  contain 
numerous  Greek  votive  inscriptions  (and  one  demotic)  dating  from 
the  Roman  imperial  epoch  (Antoninus,  Marcus  Aurelius,  Septi- 
mius  Severus,  Caracalla,  Gordian).  These  are  addressed  to  Isis  and 
to  the  Nubian  deities  Sruptichis  and  Pursepmunis.  Two  busts  in 
high  relief  and  an  empty  niche,  with  an  Egyptian  doorway,  also 
deserve  notice.  —  At  the  end  of  the  quarries  (3/4  M.  from  the 
temple)  is  a  Roman  Fort  (perhaps  the  ancient  Tzitzi') ,  with  a 
girdle-wall  of  large  hewn  stones,  the  inner  core  of  which  has  dis- 
appeared, leaving  only  the  outer  shell.  The  gateway  on  the  N.  side 
shows  the  Egyptian  concave  cornice.  On  the  W.  side  we  may  trace 
the  ancient  ditch. 

Farther  on  the  river-valley  narrows  and  lofty  cliffs  approach 
close  to  the  stream. 

Tafeh  (^Teifeh,  Teifa;  W.  bank),  the  ancient  Taphis.  On  the  river 
bank  are  the  remains  of  a  narrow  quay,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  is  a 
small  nilometer.  The  little  Temple,  of  the  Roman  period,  was  left 
unfinished  and  has  no  mural  reliefs.  The  entrance  faces  the  S.  The 
facade  is  supported  by  two  columns  with  elaborate  floral  capitals. 
In  the  interior  of  the  temple  are  four  standing  columns,  with  floral 
capitals.  —  To  the  N.  are  the  remains  of  some  large  structures, 
perhaps  the  relics  of  a  fortified  camp.  —  To  the  S.  of  the  village 


to  tCalabi>heh  KALABSnllH.  27.  noute.   389 

lay  a  second  temple,  which,  however,  was  entirely  destroyed  in  the 
latter  half  of  the  19th  century.  To  the  W.  is  a  Mohammedan  cemetery 
of  an  early  period,  with  many  Cuflc  inscriptions.  On  the  hill  above 
is  a  castellated  building. 

Beyond  Tafeh  the  dark  shining  rocks  advance  close  to  both  river 
banks,  forming  a  kind  of  rocky  gateway,  known  as  the  Bab  el- 
Kalabsheh.  At  a  few  isolated  points  a  narrow  strip  of  cultivated 
land  with  palms  borders  the  river;  and  on  the  E.  bank  lies  a  small 
village.  The  navigation  of  this  reach  is  somewhat  intricate,  owing 
to  the  numerous  rocky  islands.  At  the  point  where  the  valley  ex- 
pands again  lies  a  small  island,  with  some  ruined  buildings. 

31  M.  Kaldbshehf  Kalabsha)  formsa.\^TgB  commune  on  both  banks 
of  the  Nile.  —  From  Khartum,  a  small  village  on  the  W.  bank,  a 
desert-route  leads  round  the  Bab  el-Kalabsheh  to  Tafeh  (p.  388). 
On  this  route,  about  '/i  M.  from  the  village,  is  a  rock-inscription, 
dating  from  the  I'Jth  year  of  King  Taharka  (p.  cv).  About  l'/4  M. 
farther  on,  on  a  small  plateau,  is  the  ruined  church  o(  Sitteh  dasma, 
built  of  rough  stones. 

Hard  by  the  river,  as  we  proceed  to  the  S.,  lie  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  town  of  Talnti?.  Closely  hemmed  in  by  modern  houses 
appears  the  large  and  picturesque  — 

*Temple  of  Kal&bsheli,  built  in  the  reign  of  Augustus  on  the 
site  of  an  earlier  sanctuary  founded  by  Amenophis  II.  and  refounded 
by  one  of  the  Ptolemies.  It  was  never  completely  adorned  with 
reliefs  and  inscriptions;  and  the  reliefs  that  are  finished  are  very 
crude,  while  the  subjects  of  the  representations  are  frequently 
misunderstood.  The  temple  was  probably  dedicated  in  the  first  place 
to  the  god  Mandulis  (p.  366),  to  whom  are  addressed  most  of  the 
dedicatory  inscriptions  to  be  found  on  the  pylons,  the  walls  of  the 
vestibule,  and  elsewhere.  It  was  converted  into  a  church  on  the 
introduction  of  Christianity.  The  building  is  in  comparatively  good 
preservation  and  has  recently  been  restored. 

The  approach  to  the  temple  (^comp.  tlie  Plan,  p.  390)  is  formed 
by  a  Causeway,  about  100  ft.  long  and  25  ft.  broad,  constructed  of 
hewn  stones  and  still  in  excellent  preservation.  At  the  end  next 
the  river  is  a  rectangular  projection,  below  which  passes  a  road;  at 
the  landward  end  a  flight  of  low  steps  ascends  to  a  long  and  narrow 
platform  immediately  in  front  of  the  pylon. 

The  Pylon  (PI.  AA),  the  principal  entrance  to  the  temple-pre- 
cincts, stands  at  a  slight  angle  with  the  axis  of  the  temple  and 
causeway.  Only  the  top  of  it  has  been  destroyed,  but  it  has  no  reliefs 
whatever,  with  the  exception  of  two  representations  of  gods  in  the 
doorway.  Each  tower  of  the  pylon  has  a  groove  for  a  flag- staff 
comp.  p.  344). 

The  Court  (PI.  B),  between  the  pylon  and  the  vestibule,  was 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  colonnades,  of  wliich  four  columns 
(with  ricli  floral  capitals)  on  each  side  (N.  and  S.)  arc  now  erect. 


390 


Route  27. 


KAT.ARSHKn. 


Temple  of 


111  the  W.  side  of  the  S.  pylon -tower  are  two  doors,  cue  (N.) 
leading  to  a  chamber,  the  other  (S.)  to  a  staircase  ascending  in 
three  flights  to  the  roof  (fine  view).  The  N.  tower  also  contains  a 
staircase.  On  each  side  of  the  court  four  narrow  chambers  have 
been  constructed  in  the  wall;  and  a  door  in  the  N.  colonnade  com- 
municates with  the  passage  round  the  temple  and  with  a  crypt. 

The  rear  wall  of  the  court 
forms  the  imposing  facade 
of  the  vestibule,  which 
is  entered  by  the  large 
portal  in  the  miildle.  Be- 
tween the  columns  are 
four  stone  screens. 

On  the  first  sci'een  to 
tlie  left  Thout  and  Ilorus 
are  shown  anointing  the  king 
with  the  consecrated  water, 
(ypified  by  the  hieroglyphs 
for  'life'  and  'purity'.  Adja- 
cent sits  the  god  Harsiesis 
of  Talinis. 

On  the  first  screen  to  the 
right  is  a  Greek  inscription. 
This  is  a  decree  of  Aurelius 
I?esarion,  also  named  Amo- 
nius,  governor  of  Umbos  and 
Elephantine,  ordering  the 
owners  of  swine  to  remove 
their  animals  from  the  holy 
Talmis.  It  probably  dates 
from  248-9  A.D.  —  On  the 
second  column  to  the  right 
;ire  two  Greek  inscriptions, 
between  which  is  a  long 
inscription  in  the  Meroitic 
cursive  character  (p.  cxxxi). 
—  The  most  interesting  in- 
scription, however,  is  on  the 
right  corner  of  the  facade. 
This  U  the  Memorial  Inscription  of  Silko,  sub-king  of  the  Nubians  and  all 
the  Ethiopians  (ca.  5th  cent.  A.D.),  in  which  he  celebrates,  in  bad  Greek, 
his  victory  over  the  Blemmyes,  whom  he  defeated  'from  Prlmis  to  Talmis, 
advancing  as  far  as  Taphis  and  Talmis'. 

The  Vestibule,  or  Pronaos  (PI.  C),  the  roof  of  which  has  fallen 
in,  has  12  columns,  with  elaborate  floral  capitals.  Most  of  the  reliefs 
represent  the  emperor  in  presence  of  the  gods;  two,  on  the  rear 
fW.l  wall,  to  the  left  of  the  door,  deserve  notice.  One  shows  one  of 
the  Ptolemies  presenting  a  field  to  Isis,  Mandulis,  and  a  third  deity; 
the  other  (to  the  right)  represents  Amenophis  11.,  founder  of  the 
original  temple  (p.  389),  offering  a  libation  of  wine  to  Min  and 
Mandulis.  On  the  stone  screen  to  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  later 
Christian  painting  of  the  Hebrew  Children  in  the  fiery  furnace. 

The  following  *Thker  Rooms  (PI.  D,  E,  F)  have  well-preserved 
reliefs,  with  vivid  colouring,  depicting  the  emperor  in  presence  of 


-—^-^■a 


Kair,bsheh.  KALABSHEH.  27.  Route     391 

tin;  {TOils  of  Talmis  aiiii  other  deities.  At  the  foot  of  the  walls  of 
Jiooni  D  are  depicted  local  deities  with  their  offerings.  Many  of  the 
inscriptions  are  merely  sketched  in  in  red.  Small  chamb'rs  have 
been  (constructed  in  tlie  S.  walls  of  Koonis  U  and  E.  From  Room  D 
we  reach  the  Stnircase,  which  ascends  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall 
to  the  roof  of  Room  V.  Thence  the  higher  roofs  of  the  front  portions 
of  the  temple  are  riached  by  steps.  Another  staircase  leads  from 
the  roof  of  Room  1<;  to  the  top  of  the  (external  wall.  Descending  a 
few  steps  to  the  left,  we  reach  a  Chapel  formed  in  the  thickness  of 
the  wall.  This  compris?s  two  rooms  (with  a  crypt  in  the  second) 
and  wa.-i  probably  intended  for  the  cult  of  Osiris. 

The  Inner  Pass.\ge  (PI.  G)  round  the  temple  is  entered  by  doors 
in  the  court  and  vestibule.  The  unfinished  lions'  heads  on  the  ex- 
terior of  the  temple  proper  are  water-spouts.  On  the  rear  wall  is 
a  large  relief  of  the  emperor  before  the  gods;  below  are  smaller 
reliefs.  The  two  representations  of  Mandulis,  on  the  girdle-wall 
opposite  these  reliefs,  were  probably  originally  protected  by  a 
small  wooden  chapel.  At  PI.  a,  on  the  S.  side,  is  a  well-preserved 
Nilometer. 

The  W.  part  of  the  girdle-wall  of  the  Outer.  Passage  (PI.  H) 
round  the  temple  was  built  against  the  rock.  The  small  Chapel 
( IM.  I)  in  the  S.W.  angle  was  perhaps  a  Birth  House.  It  includes 
an  unlinished  open  court  enclosed  by  columns  and  stone  screens, 
and  a  liock  Chamber  (PI.  L),  of  which  only  the  door  lias  reliefs  (the 
emperor  before  the  gods).  —  Another  well-preserved  Chapel  (PI.  K), 
in  the  N.E.  angle,  probably  dates  from  the  Ptolemaic  temple. 

Ontside  the  temple  are  Gateways  and  ruins  of  a  massive  wall 
of  hewn  stones.  On  the  W.  hill -slope  are  Quarriefi^  while  the 
Remains  of  the  Ancient  Town,  the  houses  and  girdle-wall  of  which 
are  easily  traceable,  stretch  down  into  the  plain.  In  the  latter  are 
towers  of  rough  stone. 

We  now  proceed  to  the  N.  from  the  temple  of  Kalabsheh,  pass 
through  the  village,  turn  to  the  left,  and  reach  the  (1/4  hr.)  — 

■*Rock  Temple  of  Beit  el-Waii  ('Hou.«e  of  the  W'ali'),  situated 
halfway  up  a  hill,  at  the  mouth  of  a  side-valley.  The  temple, 
founded  under  Ramses  II.,  consists  of  a  vestibule,  a  hypostyle  hall 
hewn  in  the  rock,  and  a  small  sanctuary.  The  Vestihule,  of  which 
only  the  side-walls  so  far  as  they  were  formed  by  the  rock  are  now 
standing,  besides  the  lately  re-erected  door-posts,  was  used  as  a 
church  in  Christian  times,  being  divided  into  nave  and  aisles  and 
provided  with  a  vaulted  brick  roof.  Our  interest  is  excited  by  the 
animated  ^Historical  Reliefs  on  the  side-walls,  of  which  coloured 
casts  have  been  placed  in  the  British  Museum. 

Two  scenes  on  the  left  wall  represent  the  king's  triumph  over  the 
Ethiopians.  In  the  first  relief  we  see  the  king,  to  the  right,  under 
a  canopy,  while  (in  the  row  below)  Egyptian  grandees  present  him 
with  tribute  of  various  kinds,  the  principal  object  being  a  tablet 

Baedekbr's  Egypt.    7th  Edit.  25 


392    Route  27.  KALABSHEH. 

adorned  with  plants,  from  which  liang  rings  and  skins.  Behind 
these  are  two  fettered  negroes,  after  whom  come  negroes  with  offer- 
ings (monkeys,  greyhounds,  a  panther,  a  giraffe,  cattle,  an  ostrich) 
and  women  with  their  children  (one  carrying  her  children  in  a  basket 
held  on  her  back  by  a  strap  round  her  forehead).  One  of  the  oxen 
has  horns  represented  as  arms,  between  which  is  the  head  of  a  negro 
suing  for  mercy.  In  the  npper  row  we  see  the  above-mentioned  tablet 
placed  before  the  king,  while  the  governor  of  Ethiopia  is  being  adorned 
with  gold  chains  of  honour ;  farther  on  are  rings  of  gold,  chairs,  ele- 
phants' tusks,  bows,  shields,  panther-skins,  ebony,  fans,  and  other 
articles  brought  as  tribute;  negroes  approach  with  their  offerings 
(cattle,  antelopes,  a  lion,  etc.).  —  In  the  second  relief  the  king  and 
his  sons  appear  in  chariots  dashing  against  the  negro  foe.  The  ne- 
groes flee  to  their  village,  which  lies  among  dum-palms.  A  wounded 
negro  is  led  by  two  comrades  to  his  wife  and  children,  while  another 
woman  crouches  over  a  tire  and  cooks  a  meal. 

The  reliefs  on  the  right  wall  refer  to  the  wars  against  the  Syrians 
and  Libyans.  In  the  first  scene  (beginning  to  the  right)  the  Pharaoh 
stands  upon  two  prostrate  enemies,  grasping  three  others  (Syrians) 
by  the  hair,  while  a  prince  leads  fettereii  prisoners  before  him.  — 
In  the  second  relief  the  king  appears  before  a  Syrian  fortress ;  on 
the  battlements  are  men  and  women  suing  for  men^y  (notice  the 
woman  holding  her  child  by  the  arm) ;  the  king  seizes  one  of  the 
enemy  (who  holds  a  broken  bow)  by  the  hair  to  kill  him;  below, 
one  of  the  royal  princes  is  beating  in  the  doors  with  an  axe.  —  The 
third  relief  shows  the  king  in  his  chariot,  dashing  against  the  fleeing 
Syrians;  he  kills  two  of  the  foes,  while  two  others  are  bound  to  his 
chariot.  —  In  the  next  scene  the  king  smites  a  Libyan,  while  his  dog 
seizes  the  foe.  —  In  the  lifth  relief  we  see  King  Kamses  II.  enthroned 
beneath  a  canopy,  with  his  lion  at  his  feet.  His  son  Amen-her-wnamf 
leads  Syrian  prisoners  to  him. 

Three  doors  lead  from  the  vestibule  into  the  Hypostyle  Hall, 
which  was  hewn  in  the  rock.  The  ceiling  of  the  hall  is  borne  by 
two  'proto-Doric'  columns  (p.  clvii),  each  with  four  plain  sides  on 
which  are  inscriptions.  Tlie  mural  reliefs  arc  well  executed,  but 
their  subjects  are  of  no  special  interest.  'J'hey  represent  the  king 
before  the  gods  and  (on  each  side  of  the  side-doors)  smiting  his 
enemies  (a  Syrian  and  an  Ethiopian ).  —  The  Sanctuaky  has 
similar  reliefs.  By  the  rear  wall  are  three  statues  of  the  gods,  now 
defaced  beyond  recognition.  Both  these  rock-chambers  also  were 
used  as  Christian  churches. 


393 


28.  From  Kalabsheh  to  Korosko. 

Comp.  the  Map,  p.  .^S7. 

87  M.  BY  Steamboat  (coiup.  pp.  383,  384).  —  During  the  winter- season 
part  (if  the  temple  at  DmMr,  the  fortress  at  Koshtamnrh,  the  temple  of 
Vakke/i,  part  of  tlie  fortress  at  Kuban,  and  the  temples  at  Kttrleh  and  at 
JUa/iarraka  will  be  flooded  and  inacces.sible. 

Kaldlisheh,  see  p.  389.  —  4'/.>  M.  Abu  Hot,  on  both  banks,  i.s 
situated  under  the  tropic  of  Cancer.  On  the  K.  bank  lie  Esh-Shigeiy 
and,  farther  on,  the  chief  village  Abu  Hor,  with  post  and  telegraph 
offices.  It  is  also  a  steamboat  station.  On  the  rocks  on  the  barren 
W.  bank  are  numerous  graffiti  of  ships  and  animals  (some  of  them 
of  hoar  antiquity)  and  a  few  inscriptions  of  the  Middle  Empire. 

Abu  Tnrfa  (W.  bank).  About  1  M.  to  the  S.  is  a  rock-cave  with 
the  tomb  of  a  sheikh.  The  low  rapids  here,  caused  by  granite  rocks 
in  the  Nile,  are  known  as  the  Bab  Abu  Hor. 

121/2  M.  Murirau  [Merwaw ;  on  both  banks )  is  a  steamljoat  station. 
At  KuboshCib  ( Kobosh),  on  the  W.  bank,  are  ancient  quay-walls  with 
a  niloineter  and  an  unfinished  little  rock- chapel.  A  little  to  the 
N.  is  a  curious  irrigation  arrangement  hewn  in  the  rock. 

On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  the  village  of  Dendur  (E.  bank),  ap- 
pears the  small  — 

Temple  of  Dend6r,  built  by  Augustus  and  dedicated  to  various 
gods,  including  Pete-ese  and  Fe-IJor,  the  sons  of  Kuper,  two  local 
deified  heroes.  The  temple  stands  upon  a  platform,  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  is  preceded  by  a  broad  terrace.  Of  the 
Pylox,  which  formed  the  entrance  to  the  temple,  only  the  stone  door- 
way remains;  tlie  towers,  probably  built  of  brick,  have  disappeared. 
At  the  top  of  the  portal  is  the  winged  sun-disk,  and  within  and 
on  the  front  (E.)  and  back  (W.J  is  the  emperor  sacrificing  to  various 
gods.  Beyond  the  portal  we  enter  an  open  Court,  which  was  ori- 
ginally enclosed  by  brick  walls.  The  facade  of  the  Temple  is  adorned 
with  two  fine  columns  with  floral  capitals,  once  connected  with  the 
side-walls  by  stone  si-reens.  The  temple  comprises  a  Vestibule  and 
two  Smaller  Chambers.  The  former  is  embellished  with  reliefs  of 
the  emperor  in  presence  of  the  gods,  whiih  in  the  Christian  period, 
when  the  hall  was  used  as  a  church,  were  covered  with  stucco  bear- 
ing pictures  of  saints.  The  smaller  rooms  have  no  decoration.  In 
the  rear  wall  of  the  innermost  is  a  False  Door,  surmounted  by  ser- 
pents, with  representations  of  tlic  local  saints  Pete-ese  and  Pe-Hor 
praying  to  Isis  and  Osiris.  The  N.  and  S.  I'.xttrior  Walls  of  the 
temple  are  adorned  with  interi'sting  reliefs.  On  the  N.  wall,  to  the 
left  of  the  door  from  the  vestibule,  appears  the  emperor  ofl'ering  a 
piece  of  cloth  to  Pe-Hor,  on  the  S.  wall,  below,  to  the  left  of  the 
door,  he  sacrifices  to  Pete-ese,  who  is  accompanied  by  a  woman, 
probably  his  wife. 

Among  the  various  Inscripliont  placed  on  the  walls  by  visitors  to  the 
temple    is  one    in  Coptic,    in  which  a  certain  Presbyter  Abraham  records 

26* 


394 


Route  28. 


GERF-HUSEIN. 


From  Kaldbsheh 


that  he  erected  a  cross  here  iu  the  churcb  at  the  command  of  the  Nubian 
King  Elspanome.  This  appears  within  the  S.  side-door  of  the  vestibule. 
Above  the  temple  is  a  small  Rock  Chapel.,  with  a  door  showing  the 
Egyptian  cornice.  In  the  cliffs  to  the  N.  of  the  temple  are  Quarriet,  The 
stones  lying  in  front  of  these  are,  perhaps,  remains  ot  ancient  houses. 

Beyond  tlie  steamboat  station  at  [18'/2  M.)  Merlyeh  (Maria).,  a 
commune  on  both  banks,  the  banks  of  the  Nile  become  flatter  and 
are  partly  cultivated. 

23  m.  Girsheh  {Qersha ;  E.  bank),  situated  in  a  wide  belt  of 
cultivated  land,  lies  beside  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Byzantine 
fortress  of  Sahayura.  which  stretches  up  the  hill  from  the  river  and 

is   enclosed   by   strong  stone 


tnz 


walls.  —  Opposite,  on  the  W. 
bank,  lie  the  village  (steam- 
boat station)  and  — 

Eock  Temple  of  Gerf- 
Husein.  The  Egyptian  name 
of  this  temple  was  Per-Ptah, 
the  'House  of  Ptah'.  It  was 
founded  in  the  reign  of  Ram- 
ses II.  by  Setiiw.,  at  that  time 
governor  of  Ethiopia,  and  it 
was  dedicated  to  Ptah  of  Mem- 
phis and  his  fellow-gods.  In 
front  of  the  rock-temple  pro- 
per lay  a  quadrangular  Couet 
(PI. A),  which  was  surrounded 
on  three  sides  by  covered  col- 
onnades. The  E.  colonnade 
had  plant-columns,  while  the 
otliers  were  stipported  by  pil- 
lars, against  wliich  stood  co- 
lossal figures  of  Ramses  II. 
Two  of  tlie  columns  and  five 
of  the  pillars, with  the  remains 
of  the  architrave,  are  still  ex- 
tant. The  W.  side  of  the  court 
is  bounded  by  the  rock-facade 
of  the  temple,  hewn  to  imi- 
tate a  pylon  and  decorated  in 
a  corresponding  style.  On  the 
left  side  of  the  portal  is  a 
relief  of  Ramses  offering  fresh  vegetables  to  Ptah.  Passing  through 
this  portal,  we  enter  a  large  Hall  (PL  B\  45  ft.  square,  hewn  out 
of  the  rock.  The  ceiling  is  supported  by  six  pillars,  28  ft.  high, 
against  which  are  statues  of  the  king  like  those  in  the  court.  On 
each  side  of  the  hall  are  four  recesses,  each  with  the  king,  in  the 
guise  of  a  god  under  various  titles,  standing  between  two  deities. 


to  Korosko.  DAKKEQ.  28.  Route,    395 

111  the  Recesses  on  the  f^e/t  (S.)  Side  (from  left  to  right):  1.  The 
kin^'  between  Amon  -  Re  and  Mut:  2.  hetwcen  Hurus,  lord  of  Beki  (Kn- 
ban),  and  Horns,  lord  of  Biihen  (Ilalfa);  o.  between  l*tah-Tenen  and  the 
cow-headod  Hathnr;  4.  between  PtaU  and  Sekhmet.  —  In  the  Recesses  on 
tlie  Riijhl  (N.)  Side  (from  left  to  right):  1.  The  kinj;  between  Khnum  and 
Anukis ;  2.  between  Nefertem  and  Satet:  3.  between  Horus,  lord  of  Mem 
I'Anibeh),  and  Isis;  4.  between  Harakhte  and  Ews-os.  —  The  reliefs  on  the 
walls  of  the  hall,  showing  the  king  before  various  deities,  are  unimportant. 

The  following  Anteroom  (PI.  C),  about  36  ft.  wide  though  only 
17  ft.  deep,  is  entered  by  a  small  door,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is 
the  king  before  Ptah.  The  ceiling  is  supported  by  two  square  pillars. 
The  walls  and  pillars  are  embellished  with  representations  of  the 
king  in  presence  of  various  gods  (in<luding  the  deilied  Ramses). 
To  the  right  and  left  lie  two  chambers.  At  the  back  are  three 
chapels,  the  central  and  largest  of  which  is  the  Sanctuary  (PI.  D). 
(.)n  the  walls  of  this  chamber  are  reliefs.  On  the  left  wall  Ramses 
before  the  boat  of  Ptah;  on  the  right  wall,  the  king  before  the  boat 
of  Harakhte.  In  the  centre  of  the  sanctuary  is  a  pedestal,  wrought 
out  of  the  rock,  for  the  sacred  boat.  At  the  back  is  a  recess  with 
four  seated  figures,  representing  (from  left  to  right)  Ptah,  the  dei- 
fied Ramses,  Ptah-Tenen,  and  Hathor  with  the  cow's  head. 

Above  Girsheh  and  Gerf- Iiu:^ein  the  scenery  relapses  into 
monotony.  —  29  M.  Ko^hlmnnch,  a  conuuune  on  both  banks.  On 
the  E.  bank  rises  the  GeheL  Haydli.  On  the  \V.  bank  is  a  brick- 
built  fortress  of  the  ^liddle  Empire,  known  to  the  natives  as  KurL 
I'j^tcnsive  sand -banks  and  granite  rocks  interrupt  the  course  of 
the  river. 

35  M.  Dakkeh,  on  the  W.  bank,  is  a  steamboat  station.  Dakkeh 
is  the  ancient  Egyptian  Per-SeUcet,  'House  of  (the  Goddess)  Selket  , 
the  Greek  Pselcfns,  near  which  the  Roman  general  Petronius  de- 
feated the  Ethiopians  in  23  Pj.C.  on  his  campaign  to  Napata.  A 
little  to  the  N.  of  the  landing-place  and  not  far  from  the  river- 
bank  is  the  — 

Temple  of  Dakkeh,  which  was  restored  in  1908-9  by  Barsanti. 
The  present  temple  occupies  the  site  of  an  earlier  shrine,  probably 
of  the  New  Empire,  and  was  dedicated  to  Thout  of  Pnubs,  an 
Ethiopian  town.  r>y  the  Greeks  this  god  was  called  Paotnuphis. 
The  most  ancient  part  of  the  building  dates  from  the  time  of  the 
h]tliiopian  king  Ergamenes  and  his  contemporary  Philopator.  I'^uer- 
getes  II.  added  a  vestibule  and  the  temple  received  its  final  form 
under  the  Roman  emperors  by  the  addition  of  the  sanctuary  and 
of  the  pylon.  The  tempio  lies  with  its  main  axis  parallel  to  the 
river  (i.e.  running  N.  and  S.),  cotitrary  to  the  usual  rule  in  Nubian 
temples. 

A  broad  path,  bordered  on  both  sides  by  a  row  of  hewn  stones, 
leads  to  the  well-preserved  Pyt.on,  which  stood  in  the  outer  girdle- 
wall  and  formed  the  entrance  to  the  temple-precincts.  Each  pylon - 
tower  has  a  groove  for  a  flag-staff;   and  both  have  a  few  isolated 


396    Route  28.  DAKKEII.  From  KaUlbsheh 

reliefs  on  the  outside  and  numerous  inscriptions,  chiefly  Greek, 
(hough  some,  added  by  visitors  to  the  temple,  are  demotic  and 
Meroitic.  Within  the  central  gateway,  on  the  left  side,  is  a  re- 
presentation  of  the  king  making  offerings  to  Thout,  Tefnut,  an<l 
llathor,  and  (below^  to  Isis. 

The  Ascent  of  the  Pvlon  is  attractive.  In  each  tovvei-  there  is  a  stair- 
case, beginning  in  a  guard-room  at  the  foot  and  passing  three  other  rooms 
in  the  successive  stories.  On  the  platform  at  the  top  of  the  W.  tower  are 
numerous  inscriptions  written  by  visitor.?  and  also  carved  representations 
of  foot-prints,  indicating  the  spots  where  the  worshippers  stood.  The  roof 
of  the  central  portal  may  he  reached  from  the  W.  tower. 

No  trace  now  remains  of  the  court  between  the  pylon  and  the 
vestibule.  The  facade  of  the  Vestibule,  or  Pronaos,  has  two  columns 
with  floral  capitals,  connected  with  the  side -walls  by  means  of 
screens.  On  the  walls  are  representations  of  the  king  before  the  gods 
of  Dakkeh.  On  the  E.  wall  the  Pharaoh  proffers  to  the  god  Thout 
a  palette,  which  is  borne  by  Isis  and  Nephthys  and  is,  perhaps, 
symbolical  of  Osiris,  lleliefs  of  an  Ethiopian  king  occur  on  the 
rear  wall  (at  the  top,  to  the  left).  The  pronaos  was  at  a  later  date 
used  as  a  church,  and  the  whole  of  the  walls  and  the  ceiling  were 
painted  over  with  sacred  subjects,  traces  of  which  are  still  visible. 
—  The  doorway  in  the  rear  Avail  was  originally  the  main  entrance 
to  the  earlier  temple.  On  the  jambs  are  a  number  of  reliefs:  to  the 
left,  Philopator  before  Re,  Khnum,  and  Isis;  to  the  right,  Philo- 
pator  before  Amou-Re,  Harendotes,  and  Isis.  Within  the  portal  an 
emperor  offers  the  figure  of  Maat  to  the  god  Thout  of  Pnubs  and  to 
the  lion-headed  Tefnut. 

We  next  enter  the  Teansversb  Chamber  (restored).  A  staircase, 
on  the  right,  led  hence  to  the  roof  of  the  temple  in  the  imperial 
period;  at  the  top  is  a  crypt  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall.  —  The 
following  Chamber  was  built  by  Krgamenes.  Of  its  reliefs  only  one 
is  interesting  (on  the  right  wall) :  Ergamenes  making  a  libation  of 
wine  to  a  god  described  as  'Pharaoh  of  Senmet'  (Biggeh)  and  to  the 
goddess  Anuket.  —  A  small  door  (of  later  construction)  in  the  E. 
wall  admits  to  Two  Chambers.  On  the  back-wall  of  the  second 
are  two  lions  sitting  face  to  face;  above  them  is  a  baboon  (Thout) 
worshipping  the  goddess  Tefnut  (in  the  form  of  a  lioness);  higher 
up  are  two  ibises. 

The  Sanctuary,  containing  the  granite  shrine,  is  embellished 
with  reliefs  by  an  unidentified  emperor,  who  appears  in  them  be- 
fore various  deities.  An  interesting  relief  represents  the  Nile  gods 
approaching  the  sacred  fig-tree,  beneath  which  sits  Thout  in  the  form 
of  a  baboon.  In  the  rear  wall  are  a  door  (of  later  construction)  and 
two  windows  (surmounted  by  the  winged  sun-disk).  On  the  out- 
side of  this  wall  was  a  large  door-shaped  recess,  containing  a  relief 
of  Thout  of  Pnubs. 

On  the  E.  bank,  nearly  opposite  Dakkeh,  lies  the  commune  of 
Ailaki  (Allatji).    A  little  to  iUe  N.  of  the  stoainboat  station  is  the 


to  Korosko.  MAHARKAKA.  1^5.  RouU.    397 

village  of  KubUn,  the  ancient  Beki,  with  the  ruins  of  a  Fortress  of 
the  Middle  Empire,  commanding  the  road  to  the  undermentioned 
gold  mines.  The  fortress  was  enclosed  by  a  lofty  wall  of  sun-dried 
bricks,  mats,  and  wooden  logs,  and  was  defended  by  a  ditch.  Within 
the  S.E.  angle  of  the  wall  lay  a  small  temple.  —  Adjacent  are  two 
almost  completely  demolished  Temples,  one  to  the  S.,  the  other  to 
the  N.  of  the  village.  Near  the  former  is  a  rock-hewn  Cistern,  to  the 
E.  of  which,  in  the  desert,  are  several  tombs  of  the  Middle  Empire. 
From  Kulian  a  routi;  leads  through  the  extensive  Wadi  Ali.aki  to 
(40  M. ;  a  camel-ride  ut"  l'/2  day)  the  Gold  Mines  of  Umm  GarayCU  {'WAdi 
KJiateanib),  situated  in  'i2'  W  N.  lat.  and  33°  18'  E.  long.  These  wore  worked 
until  the  middle  ages,  and  granite  mortars  and  mills  and  other  apparatus 
used  in  the  search  for  gold  are  still  to  be  se^n.  The  mine.s  are  now  being 
worked  again  by  an  Kiiglish  company.  In  the  same  neighbourhood  are 
trace.'  of  various  other  ancient  mines. 

At  (38  M.)  Kurleh  (Qurta),  on  the  W.  bank,  are  the  ruins  of  a 
small  temple,  dedicated  to  Isis,  on  the  site  of  an  earlier  shrine  of 
the  New  Empire.  —  In  the  river  lies  the  large  and  well-cultivated 
island  of  ZerCir  (Zarar),  known  also  as  Gezlrel  Kurleh.  On  the  W. 
bank,  about  I1/4  M.  farther  on,  and  to  the  S.  of  the  hamlets  of 
Ofediimeh  (0/fedunia)  and  Birieh,  lies  the  small  Temple  of  Mahar- 
Tsika.  ( Maharraqa),  also  called  the  Temple  of  Of edumeh.  This  marks 
the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of  Hierasykaminos,  the  'town  of  the 
sacred  sycamore',  which  lay  on  the  extreme  boundary  of  the  Egyptian 
kingdom  under  the  Ptolemies  and  the  Romans.  The  unfinished 
temple  (restored)  dates  from  the  Roman  period  and  was  dedicated 
to  Serapis.  It  includes  a  rectangular  court,  surrounded  on  three 
sides  by  covered  colonnades.  The  entrance  is  on  the  E.  side.  The 
columns  on  the  S.  side  are  connected  by  stone  screens,  and  through 
the  central  one  of  these  a  door  leads  to  the  rest  of  the  temple.  The 
spiral  staircase  of  masonry,  which  leads  to  the  roof  of  the  colonnade 
from  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  court,  is  an  unusual  feature. 

■44  M.  Mahiirraka  (Maharraqa),  on  both  banks.  On  a  flat-topped 
hill  on  the  W.  bank,  about  i'/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  temple,  stands 
the  Byzantine  Fortress  of  Mehendi.  This  is  surrounded  by  a  thick 
wall  strengthened  with  towers,  except  on  the  side  next  the  river, 
where  the  steepness  of  the  hill  was  considered  protection  enough. 
From  the  main  entrance,  on  tlie  S.  side,  a  street  leads  to  a  church 
and  thence  to  an  open  space.  The  houses,  built  of  brick  and  stone, 
have  vaulted  roofs  and  are  in  good  preservation. 

50  M.  Sayaleh  (Seyahi),  on  both  banks;  the  steamboat  station  is 
on  the  E.  bank.  —  a()  M.  Medlk  (Madiq,  Madiak)  is  a  steamboat 
station  on  the  W.  bank.  The  mountains,  especially  on  the  E.,  become 
higher.    The  river  makes  a  wide  bend  to  the  W. 

The  (68  M.)  Wddi  el-'Arab,  on  both  banks,  is  inhabited  by  an 
Arabic-speaking  population.  The  rise  of  the  water-level  occasioned 
by  the  closing  of  the  Assuan  Dam  .is  originally  constructed  was 
Perceptible  up  to  this  point. 


398    Route  'JS.  ES-SEBfr'A. 

The  village  of  Es-Sebti'a  ('the  lions'),  also  called  Sihoo,  consists 
of  two  parts,  one  on  each  bank  of  the  Nile.  The  steamboat  touclies 
at  the  K.  bank.  On  tlie  W.  bank,  amid  the  tawny  desert-sand,  lies 
the  Temple  of  Es-Sedij'a,  called  by  the  Egyptians  Per-Amun  ('House 
of  Amon').  This  temple  was  dedicated  to  Amon  and  Re-Harakhte 
by  Ramses  11.,  and  is  constructed  on  the  same  plan  as  the  temple  at 
Gerf-Ilusein  (p.  394).  Ramses  himself  also  was  worshipped  here  as 
a  god.  An  avenue  of  Statues  of  Rnmse.^  II.  and  Sphinxes  leads  from 
a  ruined  brick  pylon  to  the  temple.  The  modern  name  of  the  place 
is  derived  from  these  sphinxes.  The  entrance  to  the  temple  is 
formed  by  a  well-preserved  stone  Pylon  \Jj2  ft.  high,  42  ft.  broad), 
in  front  of  which  stood  several  colossal  statues  of  Ramses  II.  (one 
of  whii  h  is  still  erect).  The  sadly  weatherworn  reliefs  on  the  front 
of  the  pylon-towers  represent  the  king  smiting  his  foes,  in  presence 
of  Re-Harakhte  and  Amon -Re).  The  reliefs  embellishing  the 
jambs  of  the  central  doorway  show  the  king  sacrificing  to  various 
deities.  The  large  Court,  which  we  now  enter,  is  65  ft.  square.  To 
the  right  and  left  are  colonnades,  each  with  5  pillars,  against  which 
stand  colossal  figures  of  the  king.  The  reliefs  on  the  walls,  repre- 
senting the  king  in  the  usual  scenes  of  intercourse  with  the  gods,  are 
poorly  executed  and  ofl'er  no  special  interest.  The  stone  basins  for 
the  ceremony  of  purification  should  be  observed. 

The  following  Grkat  Hall  begins  the  rock-hewn  portion  of  tlie  temple. 
The  ceiling  of  this  is  supported  by  12  pillars,  of  which  six  are  adjoined 
hy  colossal  figures  of  Ramses.  The  following  Transverse  Room  is  atljoineil 
by  two  side-rhambers  and  three  other  chambers  in  the  back-wall.  On  its 
walls  we  see  Ramses  II.  worshipping  and  presenting  offerings  to  various 
deities,  among  whom  the  deified  king  himself  appears.  The  central  cham- 
ber behind  is  here,  as  at  Gerf-Husein,  the  .Sanctuakt.  On  the  right 
wall  the  king  oflfers  flowers  before  the  sacred  boat  of  Harakhte,  which 
is  decorated  with  falcons'  heads.  On  the  left  wall  he  oflers  sacrifices 
before  the  boat  of  Amon,  which  is  adorned  with  rams'  heads.  On  the 
rear  wall  appears  the  bout  of  the  sun,  in  which  the  ram-headed  sun-god 
Re-Harakhte  sits  beneath  a  canopy,  worshipped  by  the  king  (on  the  left) 
and  three  apes  (on  the  right).  Beneath  is  a  recess,  in  which  the  outlines 
of  statues  of  the  three  gods  of  the  temple  (Amon,  Ramses  II.,  and  Ee- 
llarakhte)  may  still  be  made  out,  although  a  figure  of  St.  Peter,  with  a 
halo  and  a  large  key,  has  been  painted  over  that  in  tlie  centre;  for  this 
temple,  like  many  others,  was  at  one  time  used  as  a  Christian  church. 
The  king  appears  on  the  right  and  left  of  the  recess,  with  flowers.  —  To 
the  S.  of  the  temple  wa'-  a  Slaughtek  Couiit,  with  loop- shaped  stones 
to  which  the  sacrificial  animals  were  fastened.  —  Within  the  brick  girdle- 
wall  lay  another  small  brick  temple  (to  the  S.)  and  a  chamber  with  round 
store-rooms. 

76  M.  Shdturmeh  (Shatorma),  a  considerable  village,  situated 
among  palms  on  the  E.  bank.  The  Nile  now  bends  to  the  S.,  and 
the  mountains  approach  close  to  the  E.  bank,  their  steep  slopes 
lending  a  peculiar  charm  to  the  scenery. 

81 1/2  M.  Senkdri  -  DakUamyeh  (^Ei-  Singari-  El-  Bakhlania ;  E. 
bank)  and  Mdlki  (W.  bank),  a  steamboat  station. 

87  M.  Korosko  (E.  bank),  a  steamboat  station  with  a  post  and 
telegraph  office,  is  situated  in  a  plain,  bounded  by  a  semicircle  of 


'AMADA.  'JO.  Route.    399 

mountains,  and  it  is  the  starting-point  of  the  great  caravau-route  to 
Abu  JIamed  (p.  419;  8-10  days'  journey).  This  road  strikes  direct 
across  the  desert ,  the  chief  resort  of  the  'Ababdeh  ami  Bisharin. 
Beduins,  avoiding  the  three  upper  cataracts  and  cutting  off  the 
windings  of  the  Nile.  During  the  Mahdist  insurrection  Korosko  was 
of  considerable  strategical  iniportaiice  and  was  held  by  a  strong 
garrison;  now,  however,  the  forts  and  barracks  are  deserted  and 
many  houses  are  in  ruins.  In  the  valley  behind  the  town  is  a 
British  cemetery  with  the  graves  of  British  soldiers.  —  The  tra- 
veller may  ascend  (^,4-1  hr.;  steep  and  stony)  the  hill  of  .4u-fl>s 
el-Guardni,  close  to  Koroi^ko.  The  view  extends  over  the  Nile  valley 
as  far  as  Derr. 


29.   From  Korosko  to  Abu  Simbel. 

56  M.  Bi  Steamboat  (comp.  pp.  3S3,  384).  —    Comp.  the  Map,  p.  3S7. 

The  E.  bank  of  the  Nile  between  Korosko  (p.  398)  and  Armenna 
(p.  403)  is  the  most  fertile  portion  of  Nubia.  The  belt  of  cultivable 
laud  along  the  river  is  cnmparatively  broad;  and  it  is  irrigated  by 
li.eans  of  water-wheels  (sakiyeh)  of  curious  construction,  worked  by 
oxen.  —  Beyond  Korosko  the  Nile  valley  trends  to  the  N.,  so  that 
the  N.  wind  which  prevails  in  winter  frequently  retards  the  sailing- 
boats.  On  the  E.  bank  is  (3  M. )  Abu  haridnl  (steamboat  station"). 
On  the  W.  bank  lies  the  district  of  Areika  (EL-Riqa),  in  which,  near 
Kl-Gezlreh,  is  a  ruined  fortress  of  the  time  of  Thutmosis  III.  About 
3  .M.  farther  N.  (upstream),  on  the  top  of  the  plateau  in  the  midst 
of  the  yellow  desert-sand  on  the  \V.  bank,  not  far  from  the  landing- 
place,  lies  (91/2  M.)  the  — 

Temple  of  'Amada,  which  dates  from  the  ISth  Dyn.  and  was 
dedicated  to  Re-Harakhte,  the  sun-god.  It  was  erected  under 
Thutmosis  III.  and  Amenophis  II.  and  was  extended  under  Thut- 
mosis IV.  The  figures  of  Amon,  which  were  defaced  by  Amen- 
ophis IV.,  were  restored  by  Sethos  I.  In  Christian  times  the  temple 
was  used  as  a  church  and  the  reliefs  were  covered  with  whitewash, 
which  has  had  the  effect  of  preserving  the  original  colouring,  as  we 
see  now  that  the  whitewash  has  peeled  off. 

We  enter  by  a  stone  Portal,  which  was  originally  flanked  by 
]>ylon  towers  of  brick.  On  the  right  side  of  the  doorway  appears 
Thutmosis  III.,  to  the  left  Amenophis  II.,  in  the  presence  of  Kc- 
Ifarakhte.  On  the  inside  of  tlie  doorway,  to  the  left,  is  an  inscription 
referring  to  a  campaign  of  .\nienephthes  (p.  ciii)  against  the  Ethi- 
opians; farther  on  appears  the  praying  figure  of  Setaw,  who  was 
governor  of  Ethiopia  under  Itamses  II.  —  Beyond  the  pylon  e\.tended 
originally  a  court  enclosed  by  brick  walls,  while  at  the  back  stood  a 
colonnade  with  four  proto-Doric  (p.  clvii)  columns.  This  court  was 
afterwards  converted  by  Thutmosis  IV.  into  a  covered  llYrosTVi.E 
Uall  (still  in  good  preservation  )  by  the  addition  of  12  pillars  and 


400    lioule^'J.  DKRR.  From  Korosko 

stone  side-walls.  The  reliefs  on  the  pillars  and  walls  show  Thut- 
mosis  IV.  in  intercourse  with  the  gods;  and  the  inscriptions  on 
the  architraves  also  date  from  that  king.  The  columns  are  em- 
bellished with  perpendicular  bands  of  inscriptions,  containing  dedi- 
cations by  Thutmosis  III.  or  Amenophis  II.,  who  are  represented  also 
on  the  rear  wall  before  the  gods.  —  The  following  Tkansverse 
Chamber  is  241/?  ft.  broad  and  G'/.j  ft.  deep.  On  the  right  half 
of  the  Entrance  Wall  is  Thutmosis  III.  embraced  by  Isis,  and  then 
Amenophis  II.  sacrificing  to  Amon-Re.  On  the  left  half  Thout 
and  Horns  of  Edfu  pour  the  consecrating  water,  symbolized  by  the 
hieroglyphs  for  'life',  over  Amenophis  II.  —  Three  doors  in  the 
back-wall  of  this  room  lead  into  other  apartments.  The  central 
one  gives  access  to  the  Sanctuary,  on  the  back-wall  of  which  is  a 
Stele  of  great  historical  importance.  A't  the  top  is  a  relief  of  the 
sacred  ]>oat  of  the  sun  with  the  gods  Re,-Harakhte  and  Amon,  to 
whom  Amenophis  II.  is  making  a  libation  of  wine;  beneath  is  an 
inscription  of  20  lines,  from  the  ^ird  year  of  the  king's  reign,  re- 
cording the  completion  of  the  temple  and  his  campaign  in  Syria. 
Among  other  details  Amenophis  records  that  he  captured  seven 
Syrian  princes  and  hanged  six  of  them  on  the  walls  of  Thebes  and 
the  seventh  at  Napata  (p.  419).  —  Doors  (of  later  construction)  to 
the  right  and  left  of  the  sanctuary  each  admit  into  two  Chambers, 
also  accessible  from  the  above-mentioned  transverse  chamber.  The 
reliefs  in  the  first  room  to  the  right  represent  the  ceremonies  at  the 
foundation  of  a  temple. 

Between  tbe  temple  anil  the  river  are  the  foundations  of  a  .<ima]l  Cliapel. 

The  Nile  here  describes  a  curve  from  E.  to  W.,  on  tlie  E.  bank 
of  which  are  (IH  M.)  Diwun  and  — 

Derr(D(rr,-  steamboat  station),  the  handsomest  village  in  Nubia 
and  a  di-strict- capital  (with  over  3000  inhab.),  prettily  situated 
beneath  sycamores  and  date-palms.  On  the  river-bank  is  the  govern- 
ment building.  A  little  inland  is  the  large  brick  residence  of  the 
Kashif,  who  was  formerly  independent  ruler  of  Nubia;  in  the  court 
is  the  mosque.  Beyond  this  is  a  cemetery  containing  a  tasteful 
sheikh's  tomb.  Most  of  the  tombs  here  are  surrounded  by  low 
mud-walls  and  strewn  with  pebbles ;  at  the  head  of  each  is  placed 
a  large  dish  for  water  and  frequently  a  censer  also.  Close  by,  at 
the  foot  of  the  hills,  lies  the  small  — 

Rock  Temple  of  Den-  (known  as  the  ^Temple  of  Ramses  in  the 
House  of  lie),  built  by  Ramses  II.  and  dedicated  to  the  sun-god 
Re-Harakhte.  The  temple  lies  N.  and  S.  The  Pylon  and  Court  having 
disappeared,  we  first  enter  the  much  ruined  Hypostyle  Hall,  the 
sides  of  which  were  partly  formed  by  the  smoothed  rocks  of  the  hill. 
The  roof  was  supported  by  twelve  square  pillars  in  three  rows.  The 
pillars  in  the  back  rows,  against  which  rose  colossal  statues  of 
Kamses  II.,  still  stand  to  a  considerable  height.  Only  the  lower  por- 
tion of  the  walls,  the  reliefs  on  which  were  of  historical  importance, 


to  Abu  Simbel.  DKRR.  29.  Route.    401 

is  now  standing.  On  the  left  (E.)  half  of  the  I'/ntrance  Wall  are  traces 
of  warlike  sneiK's  witJi  chariots  ami  warriors.  On  the  Right  (  W.)  Wall 
are  scenes  from  the  Nubi;m  c.impaign  of  the  king.  Tn  the  upper  row 
(mnch  damaged)  we  see  Ramses  II.  in  his  chariot,  accoinpinicd  by  hi.^ 
lion,  conducting  a  group  of  captives  before  the  god ;  adjacent  the 
king  sacrifices  to  Amon-Re.  The  lowest  row  shows  the  king  in  his 
chariot  launching  arrows  against  his  fleeing  foes.  AVe  see  the  fugi- 
tives conveying  their  wounded  to  the  mountains,  where  a  herdsman's 
family,  surrounded  by  their  cattle,  wait  in  grief  and  anxiety.  To  the 
left  are  Egyptian  soldiers  with  negro  captives.  On  the  Left  (E.) 
Wall  also  are  remains  of  several  reliefs  (from  left  to  right):  1.  Cap- 
tives led  before  the  king;  2.  The  king  in  battle;  ?>.  The  king  fighting 
on  foot;  4.  The  king  leads  two  rows  of  captives  before  I'e-Harakhte, 
in  whose  temple  they  are  to  be  slaves.  Above,  the  king  appears  be- 
fore Atum.  ih.ar  (S.)  Wall:  To  the  left  of  the  door  appears  the 
king  grasping  a  group  of  enemies  by  the  hair  and  smiting  them  with 
his  club,  while  the  king's  lion  seizes  a  foe  by  the  leg,  and  the  falcon- 
headed  Re-Harakhte  hands  the  king  the  sickle-shaped  sword;  to 
the  right  the  king  presents  an  image  of  M;iat  to  the  ram-headed 
Khnum.  At  the  foot  of  the  wall  are  princes  with  their  fans.  To  the 
right  of  the  door  is  the  king  smiting  his  enemies  in  presence  of 
Amon-Re ;  to  the  left,  above,  the  king  makes  a  libation  of  wine  to 
Ptah  and  anotlier  god,  below,  he  burns  incense  before  Thout.  At 
the  foot  of  the  wall  are  princesses  with  their  sistra. 

The  following  Hali,,  which  is  almost  square,  is  entirely  hewn 
oiit  of  the  rock.  The  roof  rests  upon  six  pillars,  on  which  are  reliefs 
of  the  king  before  various  deities.  One  scene  on  the  W.  Wall  shows 
Ramses  burning  incense  before  the  sacred  boat  of  Re-Harakhte, 
which  is  adorned  with  falcons  heads  and  carried  by  priests.  On 
the  E.  Wall  is  a  similar  scene,  in  which  the  king  offers  flowers  to  the 
sacred  boat.  —  Adjoining  this  hall  are  three  chapels,  the  central 
one  being  the  Sanctuary,  in  which  the  sacred  boats  were  kept,  as 
is  depicted  on  the  side-walls.  On  the  rear  wall  are  four  seated 
figures  (in  poor  preservation)  of  the  gods  worshipped  in  the  temple, 
viz.  (from  left  to  right)  Ptah,  Amon-Re,  the  king,  and  Re-Harakhte. 
—  In  the  Christian  period  this  temple  also  was  used  as  a  church. 
On  the  hill-slope  to  the,  E.  of  the  temple  are  a  ruined  Egyptian  rock- 
tomb,  a  rocky  memorial  niche  dedicated  to  Amenemheb  in  the  reign  of 
Ramses  II.,  inscriptions  of  the  Middle  and  New  Empires,  and  very  ancient 
graffiti  of  ships,  giraffes,  etc.  At  the  entrance  of  the  valley  through  which 
leads  the  road  to  the  well  of  Murhad  is  a  small  and  ancient  recess,  in 
which  a  Bre  is  now  maintained  in  honour  of  Sheikh  Issu,  who  is  burie.d 
beneath.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  temple  are  nine  shallow  rock-recesses,  some 
Coptic  graves,  and  an  ancient  cistern. 

Beyond  Derr  the  Nile  valley  again  turns  to  the  S.W.  The  W. 
bank  becomes  more  fertile,  and  nnmerous  water-wheels  enliven 
the  water's  edge.  The  landscape  takes  on  quite  a  new  character. 
On  the  W.  bank  lies  Toovi"  f  7'u;;i«s),    to  which   the   .idjacont  largo 


402   Route  29.  KASR  IBRIM.  From  Korosko 

and  well-cultivated  island  belongs.  Behind  the  village  are  rock-in- 
scriptions of  the  Ancient  Empire.  The  hills  on  the  E.  bank  approach 
closer  to  the  stream.  —  15  M.  Tenkdleh  (Tunqala;  E.  bank)  and 
'Afyeh  (Afia;  W.  bank).  —  20  M.  Katteh  {Qatta;  E.  bank).  On  the 
W.  bank  lies  the  ruined  castle  of  Karanog,  a  lofty  brick  edifice  on 
a  substructure  of  sandstone;  it  is  of  early  Nubian  origin  and  may 
date  from  the  3rd  or  4th  cent.  A.  D.  To  the  S.  of  it  are  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  town. 

23'/2  M.  Kabd,  a  village  on  the  E.  bank,  off  whicli  lies  a  large 
island  known  as  Gezhe.t  Ibrhn  or  Geziret  Aiu  Rds.  Farther  on  is  the 
prosperous  village  of  Ibrim  (Jbreein),  with  fine  groves  of  palms  and 
two  mosques.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  village,  near  a  cemetery  with  a 
picturesque  sheikh's  tomb,  are  the  rock-grottoes  of  Ellesiyeh  ( J?i- 
Leisla).  The  largest  of  these  dates  from  the  reign  of  Thutmosis  III. 
Beside  the  entrance  and  on  the  rocks  farther  on  are  numerous 
Memorial  Inscriptions ;  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  are  inscriptions 
of  Thutmosis  III.    Ibrim  is  a  steamboat  station. 

Opposite  Ibrim,  on  the  W.  bank,  lies  the  village  of  'Anibeh 
(Aneiha),  prettily  situated  amidst  verdant  surroundings  and  shaded 
by  palms.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Mem,  the  capital  of 
Nubia  and  residence  of  the  Egyptian  viceroy  under  the  New  Em- 
pire. About  1'  2  ^^'  from  the  river,  in  a  solitary  rock,  is  the  Tomb 
of  Fennel,  an  official  under  Kamses  VI.  (20th  Dyn.),  now  in  a  very 
dilapidated  condition.  The  entrance  is  on  the  S.I'l  side  and  was 
originally  approached  by  a  still  traceable  rough  causeway. 

Midway  between  Pennet's  tomb  and  the  river  lies  an  extensive 
cemetery  of  the  New  Empire,  with  the  remains  of  pyrauddal  and 
other  Brick  Tombs. 

The  E.  bank  of  the  river  is  now  approached  by  lofty  and  pre- 
cipitous rocks.  Upon  one  of  these  stands  the  extremely  picturesque 
ruined  fort  of  *Kasr  Ibrim  (Qasr  Ibrim),  dating  from  Roman  times. 
A  visit  to  it  is  interesting. 

Kasr  Ibrim  is  identified  with  the  Roman  Primis,  which  was  one  of  the 
most  important  strategic  points  in  Nubia.  At  the  beginning  of  the  16th  cent. 
the  sultan  Selim  (p.  cxix)  placed  a  garrison  of  Bosnians  here.  Their  de- 
scendants were  defeated  in  1812  by  the  tieeing  Jllamelukes  I  p.  cxxi),  but 
in  the  same  year  Ibrahim  Pasha  (p.  cxxi)  re-captured  and  destroyed  the 
fortress. 

An  easy  path  ascends  on  the  N.  to  the  only  Gate  of  the  fortress, 
which  lies  on  the  N.  side.  This  is  embellished  with  the  Egyptian 
concave  cornice  and  the  sun-disk.  The  GirdleWall  of  rough  stones 
is  supported  on  the  S.  side  by  an  older  substructure  of  carefully 
hewn  blocks.  The  interior  of  the  fortress  is  occupied  by  a  confused 
group  of  houses  of  the  Turkish  period,  built  of  rough  stones,  but 
incorporating  fragments  of  older  buildings,  such  as  portions  of  col- 
umns used  for  thresholds.  Two  of  the  larger  buildings  are  still  in 
good  preservation,  viz.  a  Byzantine  Church  in  the  middle  and  a 
Temple  in  the  Egyptian  style  in  the  N.W.   corner.     The  church 


to  Aim  SimhH.  KASR   IF.R'M.  29.  Route.   403 

stands  on  the  site  of  an  older  Coptic  church  ;  it  was  aftersvards  used 
as  a  mosque,  but  a  dedicatory  cross  is  still  to  be  seen  on  one  of  the 
columns.  The  temple  has  no  inscriptions.  Steep  flights  of  steps,  cut 
in  the  rock,  descended  on  the  W.  side  to  the  river.  The  view  from 
the  castle-hill  is  very  tine;  to  the  E.  rise  the  hills  of  the  .-Vrabiaii 
desert  (one  eminence  crowned  by  the  tomb  of  a  sheikh),  while  the 
Nile  flows  far  below;  to  the  S.  are  the  rocks  near  Abu  Simbel ;  to 
the  W.  lies  the  tawny  desert  with  its  pyramidal  hills,  contrasting 
with  the  verdant  cultivated  land  and  the  grey  houses  of 'Anibeh. 
Close  to  the  S.  slope  of  the  castle-hill  lie  the  ruins  of  a  small  To>c7i, 
surrouniled  by  a  wall.  Farther  up  the  valley  is  a  large  Cemetery.,  with 
simple  Christian  graves  and  some  brick  tombs  on  a  more  ambitious  scale. 
There  is  a  similar  cemetery  in  the  valley  to  the  N.  of  the  castle. 

In  the  steep  "NV.  slope  of  the  castle-hill  are  several  large  Memorial 
Recesses,  dating  from  the  New  Empire.  These  now  lie  at  some 
heiglit  abo\e  the  river-bank  and  some  are  very  difficult  of  access,  but 
originally  they  were  reached  by  means  of  steps  from  a  path  skirting 
the  rivei  at  a  higher  level  than  the  present  path.  The  first  (on  the  S.) 
was  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Thutmosis  HI.  by  Nehi,  governor 
of  Ethiopia.  The  second  was  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Ramses  II. 
by  Setaw,  governor  of  Ethiopia,  who  is  represented  in  it  with  his 
officials.  1"he  third  recess  dates  from  the  joint  reign  of  Thut- 
mosis III.  and  Hatshepsut,  but  the  name  of  the  latter  is  every- 
where defaced.  Both  rulers,  eaili  beside  a  deity,  are  represented 
on  the  rear  wall.  The  fourth  recess,  the  most  important,  belongs 
to  the  reign  of  Amenophis  II.  On  the  right  side-wall  the  king  re- 
ceives tribute  of  all  kin^is  (includins  panthers)  from  two  officials. 
On  the  left  wall  the  king  appears  conducted  by  Ilorus,  lord  of  Buhen 
(Wadi  Haifa),  before  a  row  of  gods.  In  a  niche  in  the  back -wall 
is  the  statue  of  the  king,  embraced  by  Horus  of  Mem  (Anibeh), 
on  the  right,  and  by  the  goddess  Satet,  on  the  left.  The  walls  are 
further  adorned  with  Meroitic  paintings.  The  fifth  recess  has  no 
sculptures. 

On  a  steep  cliff  facing  the  river,  to  the  S.  of  Kasr  Ibrim,  are  a 
Relief  and  Inscription  ofSethos  7.,  commemorating  a  victory.  Beside 
it  are  very  early  graffiti  of  elephants,  giraffes,  etc. 

The  mountains  on  the  K.  bank  presently  retire,  leaving  room 
for  a  strip  of  cultivated  land.  Numerous  sakiyehs  or  water-wheels 
are  seen.  —  30  M.  (ieneineh  (El-Geneina;  E.  bank);  33 Y2  M. 
Shibbak  (^El-Shehbok ;  E.  bank),  opposite  which  is  Mapnas.  —  36  M. 
I'o-ihkeli  {Ihski;  steamboat  station),  on  both  banks.  On  the  W. 
bank  here,  7  M.  from  the  river,  a  large  force  of  dervishes  was 
defeated,  with  the  loss  of  their  cannon,  by  the  British  on  Aug. 
Bni,  1889;  several  thousand  slain  were  left  on  the  battlefield.  — 
45'/2  M.  Armenna  (E.  bank).  The  desert  approaches  close  to  the 
river,  and  the  banks  often  rise  steeply  from  the  water.  The  large 
ruined  building  on  the  W.  bank  was,  perhaps,  a  storehouse  dating 


404    Route  30.  ABU  SIMBEL.  Great 

Iroin  the  time  of  Moliamined  Ali.  —  54  M.  Farrlk  (^Forriq;  E.  bank), 
a  commune  including  the  villages  of  Furkundi  and  Demld.  The  hills 
on  both  banks  become  higher.  At  the  point  where  they  touch  the 
river  on  the  W.  bank  lie  the  great  rock-temples  and  colossi  of  — 
56  M.  Abu  Simbei  (steamboat  station). 


30.  The  Rock  Temples  of  Abu  Simbei. 

The  two  rock  temples  oi  AOu  Simbei,  known  also  as  Abousamlul 
ur  Ipsambul,  built  by  Ram.ses  II.,  are  among  the  most  stupendous 
monuments  of  ancient  Egyptian  architecture  and  challenge  com- 
parison with  the  gigantic  edifices  situated  in  Egypt  proper.  Tickets 
of  admission  (p.  200)  should  not  be  forgotten.  This  temple  produces 
a  very  grand  etfect  by  moonlight  or  at  .sunrise. 

The  **Great  Temple  of  Abu  Simbei  is  entirely  excavated  out  of 
the  solid  rock.  It  was  dedicated  in  the  first  place  to  Amon-Re  of 
Thebes  and  Re-Harakhte  of  Ileliopolis,  the  leading  deities  of  Egypt 
proper,  but  Ptah  of  Memphis  and  the  deified  Ramses  himself  were 
likewise  worshipped  here.  Its  longer  axis  runs  almost  due  E.  and 
W.,  so  that  at  sunrise  the  sun's  rays  penetrate  to  the  innermost  sanc- 
tuary. Burclchardt,  in  1812,  was  the  first  modern  traveller  to  ex- 
amine this  temple.  In  1909  Barsunli  discovered  the  N.  chapel  in 
the  forecourt,  freed  the  N.  colossus  from  the  rubbish  concealing  it, 
and  built  a  wall  to  protect  the  temple  from  the  sand. 

From  the  landing-place  the  temple  is  reached  in  10  min.  across 
fields.    We  ascend  a  modern  stairrase  to  the  — 

Forecourt  in  front  of  the  temple,  which  is  hewn  out  of  the  rock 
and  is  enclosed  on  the  N.  and  >S.  by  ancient  brick  walls  that  have 
been  repaired  in  places.  Adjoining  this  on  the  W.  is  a  Terrace  (PI.  A ), 
reached  by  a  flight  of  steps  with  an  inclined  plane  in  the  middle, 
and  at  the  back  of  the  terrace  rises  the  facade  of  the  temple.  To  the 
right  and  left,  in  front  of  the  inclined  plane,  are  inscriptions  in 
honour  of  Ramses  II. ;  that  to  the  right  (N.)  represents  the  king  burn- 
ing incense  before  Amon,  Re-IIarakhte,  and  Tbout  and  presenting 
them  with  flowers.  The  terrace  is  embellished  in  front  with  rows  of 
captives  and  a  concave  cornice,  and  is  bounded  by  a  balustrade,  bear- 
ing the  dedicatory  inscription  (comp.  above  ).  Behind  the  balustrade 
stand  figures  of  falcons  and  small  statues  of  the  king.  Here  our  atten- 
tion is  attracted  by  the  four  '"Colossi  ofEamses  II.  (PI.  fl,  6,  c,  d),  hewn 
out  of  the  cliff  against  which  their  backs  are  pLued.  and  arranged 
in  pairs  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  temple.  Each  of  these 
figures  is  over  65  ft.  in  height,  i.e.  larger  than  the  Colossi  of  Memnon 
(p.  330j,  but  the  workmanship  is  good  and  the  proportions  just, 
while  their  size  is  in  admirable  keeping  with  the  scale  of  the  facade 
of  the  temple  and  the  surrounding  cliffs.     The  mild  countenance 


Temple. 


ABU  SIMREL. 


30.  Route. 


405 


and  characteristic  nose  of  Ramses  II.  are  best  preserved  in  the  flr.^t 
colossus  on  the  S.  (PI.  a).  The  second  colossus  has  unfortunately 
been  deprived  of  its  head  and  shoulders,  which  now  lie  on  the  ground 
before  it.  The  upper  part  of  the  third  colossus  was  patched  up  under 
Sethos  II.,  who  added  the  support  under  the  right  arm. 

Upon  his  head  the  king  wears  the  double  crown;  his  liands  rest  upon 
his  knees;  and  fruni  bis  neck  hang.'*  a  ring  bearing  the  prienomen  uf 
Ramses  II.,  wliich  i.s  c^irved  also  upun  the  upper  arms  and  between  the  leg.s. 
To  the  right  and  left  of  eacli  coloss\is  and  between  their  legs  are  smaller 
ligures  of  other  members  of  the  royal  family.  To  the  left  of  the  lirst 
colossus  (PI.  a)  is  Princess  Xebt-tewe,  to  the  right,  Kent-Anat,  between  the 
legs  an  unidentified  princess.  To  the  left  of  the  second  colossus  (PI.  6) 
is  Tue,  the  mother  of  Ramses  II.,  to  the  right  is  his  wife  Nefret-ere,  and 
between  his  legs,  Prince  .Vmen-her-khopshef.  On  each  of  the  thrones  of 
colossi  b  and  c,  on  the 
sides  next  the  entrance, 
arc  two  Nile -gods, 
wreathing  the  floral  em- 
blems (papyrus  and  lily) 
uf  Lower  and  Upper 
Egypt  round  the  hiero- 
glyphic symbol  for  'to 
unite'  (comp.  p.  xcviii), 
while  below  is  a  row  of 
fettered  prisoners,  those 
on  the  left  being  negroes, 
those  on  the  right 
.Syrians. 

Upon  the  two  S.  co- 
lossi are  a  number  of 
Greek,  Carian,  and  Ph<i-- 
nician  inscriptions,  of 
considerable  philological 
and  historical  interest. 
These  were  carved  by 
mercenaries,  who  had 
penetrated  thus  far  in  the 
course  of  military  ex- 
peditions. The  most  re- 
markable is  a  Greek  in- 
scription on  the  left  leg 
of  the  injured  colossus 
(PI.  b),  written  by  Greek 
mercenaries  sent  by 
Psammetichos  II.  from 
Elephantine  to  Nubia. 
They  had  advanced  to 
the  second  cataract  and 
wrote  this  inscription 
on  their  way  back.  The 
English  translation  runs 
as  follows :  — 

'When    King    Psam- 
metichos   came    to    Ele- 
phantine.they  wrote  this, 
who    came    with    Psam- 
metichos, son  of  Theocles,   and    proceeded  via  Kerkis'aSj  far  as  the  river 
allowed  of  it.    Potasimto  led  the  foreigners,  Amasis  the  Egyptians.  Archon, 
sou  of  .\moibichos,  and  Pelekos,  son  ofUdamos,  wrote  this.'  —  Kerkis  is 
probably  the  modern  Gir.sheh. 

On  the  smoothed   S.  wall  of  the  forecourt  is  a  Stele  (PI.  e)  of 


406    Route  30.  ABU  SIMBEL.  Oreat 

the  34th  year  of  the  reign  of  Ramses  II.,  commemorating  the  mar- 
riage of  the  Pharaoh  with  the  daughter  of  the  King  of  the  Hittites, 
who  was  brought  to  Egypt  by  her  father.  At  the  top  the  king  appears 
seated  between  two  gods  beneath  a  canopy,  while  the  prinre  of  the 
Hittites  and  his  daughter  worship  him.  —  The  space  between  the 
southernmost  colossus  and  the  face  of  the  cliff  has  been  converted 
into  a  small  open  Court  (PI.  f)  by  the  erection  of  a  doorway.  On  the 
W.  wall  of  the  lourt  is  a  long  poetic  inscription  placed  here  by 
Ramses  II.  —  In  the  space  between  the  northernmost  colossus 
(PI.  d)  and  the  face  of  the  cliff,  on  the  \V.  wall,  is  a  large  memorial 
inscription,  also  erected  by  Ramses  II.,  and  representing  him  in 
tlie  presence  of  Re-Harakhte. 

In  Court  /  is  the  tomb  of  Major  Tidswel!,  a  British  officer  who  died 
in  1884,  during  the  Nile  Expedition. 

The  terrace  is  adjoined  on  the  N.  by  an  Open  Court  dedicated 
by  Ramses  II.  to  the  worship  of  the  sun,  which  was  excavated  in 
1909.  The  walls  surrounding  it  rise  on  the  E.  side  to  form  a  sort  of 
pylon.  To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  memorial  inscription  of 
Ramses  II.,  on  which  he  is  represented  burning  in'sense  to  the  gods 
Amon-Re,  Mut,  Re- Ilarakhte,  Seth,  and  the  Asiatic  Astarte.  In 
the  court  are  two  pedestals  with  concave  cornices.  On  the  one  on 
the  S.,  to  wldch  steps  ascend,  stood  four  cynocephali;  the  one  on 
the  N.  bore  a  chapel  containing  the  images  of  a  scarabaius  (the  sun- 
god  Khepre)  and  of  a  cynocephalus  { the  moon-god  Thout ;  see  p.  87). 
On  the  N.  wall  of  the  court  we  see  the  boat  of  the  sun,  in  which 
Ramses  is  sacrificing  to  Re-Harakhte. 

The  Facade,  which  here  represents  the  pylon  of  the  ordinary 
temples,  is  crowned  by  a  concave  cornice,  above  which  is  a  row  of 
cyno^ephall  worshipping  the  rising  sun.  Within  the  cornice  are  the 
cartouches  of  Ramses  II.,  surrounded  by  Uraeus-serpents,  and  inter- 
rupted by  figures  of  Amon  (to  the  left)  and  Re -Ilarakhte  (to  the 
right).  Then  follows  the  dedication -inscription  of  the  king  to 
Amon-Re  and  Re-Harakhte.  In  a  niche  above  the  Entrance  Door 
(PL  g)  the  prffiuomen  of  the  king  is  represented  by  large  figures 
in  low  relief,  amongst  which  that  of  the  falcon-headed  sun-god  is 
conspicuous.  To  the  right  and  left  the  king  presents  an  image  of 
Maat  to  this  god  and  to  his  own  deified  name.  On  the  lintel  of  the 
door  Ramses  is  shown  laying  the  foundation-stone  of  the  temple 
before  Amon  and  Mat,  on  the  left,  and  before  Re-Harakhte  and 
the  lion-headed  Wert-hekew,  on  the  right.  Within  the  portal  a 
smaller  doorway  was  built  by  Ramses  II. 

We  now  enter  the  rock-temple,  the  interior  of  which  measures 
about  180  ft.  from  the  threshold  to  the  back  of  the  innermost  cham- 
ber. The  first  room,  the  Great  Hypostyle  Hall  (PI.  B),  correspond- 
ing to  the  open  court  with  covered  colonnades  in  temples  built  in 
the  open  air,  is  54  ft.  broad  and  58  ft.  deep.  The  ceiling  is  sup- 
ported by  eight  square  pillars,  against  which  stand  Osiris-figures  of 


Temple.  ABU  SIMBEL.  30.  Route.  407 

the  king  (30  ft.  high),  holding  the  scourge  and  the  crook.  The  figures 
in  the  N.  row  wear  the  double  crown,  those  in  the  8.  row  the  crown 
of  Upper  Egypt.  The  artistic  effect  of  these  admirably  executed 
statues  is  very  fine;  the  best  is  the  fourth  figure  in  the  N.  row,  with  its 
intelligent  expression  and  well-preserved  characteristic  nose.  The 
ceiling  of  the  central  aisle  is  adorned  with  flying  vultures,  those  of 
the  side-aisles  with  stars.  Some  of  the  reliefs  on  the  wall,  still  viv- 
idly coloured,  are  of  great  historical  value.  On  the  N.  half  of  the 
Entrance  Wall  (PI.  h)  the  king  is  shown  grasping  a  band  of  en- 
emies by  the  hair  and  smiting  them  with  his  club,  in  presence  of  Re- 
llarakhte,  guardian-deity  of  N.  Egypt,  who  hands  the  curved  sword 
to  Ramses.  Above  the  king  hovers  a  vulture  and  behind  him  is  his 
guardian -spirit  or  Ka.  Beneath  are  the  king's  daughters,  with 
sistra.  The  S.  half  of  this  wall  (PI.  i)  is  occupied  by  a  correspond- 
ing scene,  in  presence  of  Amon-Re,  guardian  -  deity  of  S.  Egypt. 
Beneath  are  the  king's  sons. 

South  Wall  (left;  PI.  fc).  At  the  top  are  five  reliefs:  1.  The 
king  before  a  ram-headed  god  and  a  lion-headed  goddess;  2.  The 
king  dedicates  four  packages ;  3.  The  king  ofl'ers  incense  to  Ptah ; 
4.  The  king  kneeling  under  the  sacred  tree  of  Heliopolis,  before 
Re-Harakhte,  while  Thout  and  Seshet  stand  close  by;  5.  The  king 
before  Amon.  Beneath  are  three  large  warlike  scenes  (from  left 
to  right).  1.  The  king  in  his  chariot  storms  a  Syrian  fortress.  The 
defenders  on  the  battlements  sue  for  mercy,  but  are  pierced  with 
his  arrows.  The  king  is  followed  by  three  of  his  sons.  Beneath, 
a  herdsman  flees  with  his  herd  [towards  the  town.  2.  The  king 
pierces  a  prostrate  Libyan  with  a  lance.  3.  The  triumphal  return 
of  the  king  from  battle  with  the  captured  negroes. 

The  NoBTH  Wall  (right;  PI.  I)  represents  scenes  from  the  king's 
campaign  against  the  Hittites,  with  which  we  have  already  become 
acquainted]  in  the  Ramesseum  (p.  306)  and  at  Luxor  (p.  258)  and 
Abydos  (p.  243).  —  In  the  Lower  Half  of  the  representation  we  see 
first  (left)  the  march  of  the  Egyptian  army,  which  consists  of  in- 
fantry and  charioteers;  then  (between  the  doors  to  Rooms  F  andO), 
the  Egyptian  camp,  with  the  shields  of  the  soldiers  arranged  round 
it  in  a  kind  of  stockade.  The  bustle  of  the  camp  is  represented  with 
great  vivacity  :  the  unharnessed  horses  receiving  their  fodder,  the 
resting  soldiers,  the  camp-followers,  etc.  To  the  right  is  the  royal 
tent.  The  third  picture  shows  the  king  on  his  throne,  holding  a 
council  of  war  with  his  officers.  Below  information  is  extorted 
from  two  spies  by  means  of  blows.  In  the  last  scene  (to  the  right) 
the  chariots  of  the  Egyptians  and  Hittites  are  already  engaged  in 
battle.  —  The  scenes  in  the  Upper  Hai/"  transport  us  to  the  midst 
of  the  fight.  To  the  left  the  king  dashes  in  his  chariot  against 
his  enemies,  who  have  surrounded  him  in  their  chariots.  In  the 
centre  is  the  fortress  of  Kadesh,  surrounded  by  the  Orontes.  Its 
defenders  watch  the  fight  from  the  battlements.    To  the  extreme 

BiKMiKKK's  Egypt.    7th  Kdil.  20 


408   Route  30.  ABU  SIMBEL.  Great  Temple. 

right  is  the  king  in  his  chariot,  inspecting  his  officers,  who  count 
the  severed  hands  of  the  enemy  and  bring  fettered  prisoners. 

Rear  (W.)  Wall.  To  the  right  (Pi.  m)  of  the  central  door  is 
Ramses  II.  leading  two  rows  of  captured  Hittites  before  Harakhte, 
his  own  deified  figure,  and  the  lion-headed  Wert-hekew;  to  the  left 
(PI.  n)  he  leads  two  rows  of  negroes  before  Amon ,  the  deified 
Ramses,  and  Mut.  —  Between  the  two  last  (S.)  pillars  stands  a 
Stele  (PI.  p)  dating  from  the  35th  year  of  the  reign  of  Ramses  II., 
on  which  is  a  long  inscription  recording  in  florid  terms  that  Ramses 
erected  large  edifices  for  Ptah  of  Memphis  and  presented  rich  gifts 
to  him. 

Adjoining  this  large  hall  are  eight  Chambers  (PI.  F-N),  pro- 
bably used  to  store  the  temple  utensils  and  furniture.  Round 
the  walls  of  these,  which  are  covered  with  inferior  reliefs,  run 
stone  tables. 

We  now  enter  a  Hall  (PI.  C),  36  ft.  broad  and  25  ft.  deep  and 
supported  by  four  pillars.  On  the  S.  wall  the  king,  followed  by  his 
wife  Nefret-ere  holding  two  sistra,  appears  offering  incense  before 
the  sacred  boat  with  the  shrine  of  Amon,  which  is  carried  by 
priests ;  and  on  the  N.  wall  is  a  similar  scene  before  the  boat  of  Re- 
Harakhte,  Three  doors  lead  from  this  hall  into  a  long  and  narrow 
Transverse  Chamber  (PI.  D),  and  thence  three  other  doors  admit  to 
three  apartments,  of  which  the  two  at  the  sides  are  very  small.  The 
central  apartment  is  the  Sanctuary  (PI.  E),  containing  a  rock-hewn 
support  for  the  sacred  boat,  behind  which  are  seated  figures  of  the 
four  deities  worshipped  in  the  temple  —  Ptah,  Amon -Re,  the 
deified  Ramses,  and  the  falcon-headed  Re-Harakhte. 

Immediately  to  the  S.  of  the  great  temple  is  a  small  Rock  TEMrLE, 
discovered  in  1874  by  a  party  of  travellers  including  Miss  Amelia 
B.  Edwards,  the  well-known  writer  (d.  1892),  who  has  described  it 
in  her  interesting  'Thousand  Miles  up  the  Nile'.  This  is  possibly  a 
Birth  House  (comp.  p.  260).  The  first  chamber,  probably  built  of 
brick  and  vaulted,  has  disappeared.  The  second  chamber,  hewn  in 
the  rock,  is  the  Sanctuary,  and  is  embellished  with  well-preserved 
reliefs. 

Entrance  Wall.  On  each  side  appears  the  king  entering  the  temple.  — 
Left  Wall.  The  king,  followed  by  his  guardian-spirit,  offers  incense  to  the 
sacred  boat  of  Thout.  —  Rear  Wall.  To  the  left,  the  king  presents  his  own 
cartouche  to  Amon -Re  of  Kapata;  to  the  right,  he  makes  a  libation  of 
wine  to  Re-Harakhte.  —  Right  Wall.  The  king  accompanied  by  his  guar- 
dian-spirit, sacrifices  to  the  boat  of  Amon -Harakhte.  The  king's  pree- 
nomen  is  represented  behind  by  the  goddess  Maat,  who  is  equipped  with 
special  symbols. 

A  Marble  Tablet  on  the  rock  in  front  of  this  small  temple  commem- 
orates the  battle  of  Toshkeh  (p.  403)  in  English  and  Arabic. 

From  the  forecourt  of  the  temple  we  pass  through  a  stone  gate- 
way made  by  Ramses  II.  in  the  brick  enclosure  and  proceed  to  the 
N.  by  the  path  along  the  river-bank,  which  brings  us  in  a  few 
minutes  to  the  small  — 


Small  TempU.  ABU  SIMBEL.  30.  Route.   409 

*Teinple  of  Hathor.   This  temple  is  hewn  in  a  rock  separated  by 
a  valley  from  the  great  temple.   It  also  was  founded  by  Ramses  II. 
and  was  dedicated  to  Hathor  and  to  the 
deified  Nefret-ere,  consort  of  Ramses.    The  A 

facade  is  turned  more  to  the  S.  than  that  of  .^, — ii — ^ 

the  great  temple.   The  quay  on  the  river  and         ,  ''^  iSi::^  r 
the  approach  thence  to  the  entrance  have 
been  washed  away. 

The  Facade,  92  ft,  long  and  o9  ft.  high,  .    ^- 

is  hewn  in  imitation  of  a  pylon  with  reced-     .-.-     — '~> 
ing  front,  crowned  by  a  concave  cornice.  The    i^y  nf  nflj  ^-flf'J'-Tylri 
cornice,  however,  has  fallen.    On  each  side      ;,,1  :      :^  _:^^^"m 
of  fhe   narrow  entrance,   with  their  backs        .--:■- ^i-  -.^^^.-..^^fr 
against  the  fa<;ade,  are  three  Colossal  Statues, 

33  ft.  in  height,  representing  Ramses  II.  and  Nefret-ere.  Beside 
these  are  smaller  figures  of  the  royal  children  :  beside  the  colossi  of 
the  queen  are  the  princesses  Merit- Amun  (right)  and  Hent-ten-e 
(left) ;  beside  the  outer  colossi  of  the  king  are  the  princes  Merl- 
Atum  (right)  and  Meri-Ri  (left);  and  beside  the  colossi  of  the  king 
on  the  right  and  left  of  the  door  are  the  princes  Amen-her-khopsltef 
(right)  and  Ra-her-wnam/' (leii).  On  the  receding  facade  are  pro- 
jecting parts  resembling  buttresses,  separating  the  colossi,  so  that 
each  of  the  latter  appears  to  be  in  a  kind  of  niche.  On  these  but- 
tresses are  votive  inscriptions. 

We  now  enter  the  Hypostyle  Hall  (PI.  A),  the  roof  of  which 
is  borne  by  six  pillars,  decorated  in  front  with  sistra  with  the  head 
of  Hathor,  while  the  other  sides  bear  representations  of  the  king, 
the  queen,  and  various  deities. 

3IDBAL  Reliefs.  On  the  Entrance  Wall  (PI.  «,  V)  Ramses,  accompanied 
by  his  wife,  smites  (left)  a  negro  in  presence  of  Amon-Re  and  (right) 
a  Libyan  before  Ee-Harakhte.  —  Left  Wall  (PI.  c;  from  left  to  right): 
1.  Ramses  before  Hathor;  2.  Ramses  crowned  by  Seth  and  Horus ;  3.  The 
queen  before  Anukis;  4.  Ramses  presenting  an  image  of  Maat  to  Amon. 
—  Right  Wall  (PI.  d;  from  right  to  left):  1.  Ramses  offering  food  to 
Ptah;  2.  Ramses  before  the  ram-headed  god  Herishef  of  Heracleopolis; 
3.  The  queen  before  Hathor ;  4.  Ramses  making  a  libation  of  wine  to 
Re-Harakhte.  —  Rear  Wall.  To  the  right,  the  queen  before  Hathor;  to  the 
left,  the  queen  before  Mut. 

Three  doors  lead  into  a  Transverse  Chamber  (PI.  B),  with  un- 
important mural  reliefs.  Adjoining  are  two  rooms,  barely  begun, 
over  the  doors  of  which  are  tasteful  reliefs  of  the  Hathor  cow  in  a 
papyrus  marsh,  worshipped  in  one  case  by  the  king,  in  the  other  by 
the  queen.  From  the  Transverse  Chamber  we  enter  the  Sanctuary 
(Pi.  C).  In  the  rear  wall  is  a  chapel-shaped  recess,  with  its  roof 
supported  by  sistra.  Within  this  is  a  high  relief,  representing  (full 
face)  a  figure  of  Hathor  in  the  form  of  a  cow,  below  the  head  of 
which  appears  the  king  under  her  protection.  (Tn  the  Right  Wall 
the  queen  offers  incense  to  Mut  and  Hathor;  on  the  Left  Wall  the 
king  offers  incense  and  pours  a  libation  before  his  own  image  and 

26* 


410   Route  37.  GEBEL  ADDEH.         From  Ahu  Simbel 

that  of  his  wife.  Two  rooms  adjoining  the  sanctuary  were  ori- 
ginally planned,  and  spaces  for  doors  to  these  have  been  left  free  in 
the  rear  wall  of  the  Transverse  Chamber. 

On  the  smoothed  face  of  the  rocks  both  to  the  N.  of  the  small 
temple  and  to  the  S.  of  the  great  temple,  are  numerous  ^Memorial 
Inscriptions  and  Niches,  most  of  which  date  from  the  reign  of  Ramse.s  II. 


31.  From  Abu  Simbel  to  Wadi  Haifa. 

40  M.  BT  Steamboat  (coiiip.  pp.  38.3.  384).  —  Comp.  the  Map,  p.  3S7. 

As  we  proceed  to  the  S.  from  Abu  Simbel  we  notice  the  village 
of  Balldneh  (Ballana)  on  the  W.  bank.  On  the  E.  bank,  bfilow 
Abahuda ( Abu  Oda),  a  village  belonging  to  Farrik  (p. 404),  the  hills 
approach  close  to  the  stream.  On  one  of  these,  the  Gebel  Addeh, 
lies  a  small  Rock  Temple,  founded  in  the  reign  of  King  Haremheb 
and  dedicated  to  Amon-Re  and  Thout  of  Shmun.  This  temple 
was  afterwards  used  as  a  Christian  church.  The  ancient  approach 
has  disappeared ;  a  broken  flight  of  steps  leads  up  to  the  entrance. 
The  First  Hall  contains  four  papyrus  -  columns  with  bud- capitals. 
The  architectural  details  have  been  painted  over  with  Byzantine 
ornamentation,  aTid  the  ancient  mural  reliefs  project  from  beneath 
figures  of  Christian  saints.  This  hall  is  adjoined  by  two  side- 
chambers  and  behind  it  is  the  sanctuary. 

Among  the  reliefs  on  the  walls  of  the  Hall  are  the  following.  On  the 
\efthalf  of  the  Entrance  Wall,  Haremheb  suckled  by  Anukis,  beside  whom 
stands  the  ram-headed  Khnum;  on  Ihe  right  half  of  this  wall  is  Harem- 
heb before  Thout.  On  the  iV.  Wall.,  to  the  left  of  the  door,  the  king  he- 
fore  the  ibis-headed  Thout  and  four  forms  of  the  falcon-headed  Horus 
worshipped  in  Nubia;  to  the  right  of  the  door,  Haremheb  acL'ompanied 
by  Seth  and  Horus.  —  On  the  S.  Wall  are  Christian  paintings  of  St.  Epi- 
niachns  and  other  saints  on  horseback  and  Coptic  inscriptions.  On  the 
ceiling  are  Qgures  of  Christ  (with  raised  right  hand)  and  an  Apostle 

On  an  isolated  rock  to  the  S.  of  the  Gebel  Addeh  rise  the  ruins 
of  a  Mediaeval  Fortress.  In  the  valley  are  numerous  domed  brick 
tombs,  probably  Christian,  —  Farther  to  the  S. ,  in  the  face  of  an 
isolated  cliff  opposite  the  large  island  of  Shataui  (Shetawi) ,  are 
several  Memorial  Niches.  One  of  these  dates  from  the  reign  of  King 
Eye  (18th  Dyn.),  who  here  prays  to  six  gods.  Another  was  con- 
structed by  Paser,  governor  of  Ethiopia  in  the  reign  of  King 
Haremheb.  On  the  waUs  we  see  Paser,  praying  to  Amon-Re  and 
Re,  and  Paser's  relatives  before  the  deceased. 

On  the  E.  bank  rise  numerous  isolated  rocks,  while  the  moun- 
tains recede  far  from  the  river.  —  11  M.  Kustol  {Qostol;  E.  bank). 
—  17^2  M.  Adendan  (E.  bank;  steamboat  station)  is  the  last  com- 
mune belonging  to  Egypt.  In  the  village  are  the  remains  of  a 
church,  and  there  is  another  ruined  church  farther  inland. 

The  following  villages,  on  both  banks,  were  placed  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan  in  1899  (comp.  p.  415). 


to  Wddi  Haifa.  WADI  HALFA.  31.  Route    4l/ 

On  the  W.  bank,  near  the  river,  lie  the  remains  of  a  fortress  Oi 
a  late  period  and  some  ruined  houses. 

Fara^  (^W.  bank  |.  Close  by  is  a  rectangular  wall  of  the  Christian 
period  enclosing  the  remains  of  a  castle  as  well  as  blocks  of  masonry 
belonging  to  an  Egyptian  temple  and  to  a  church.  To  the  S.W.  is 
an  isolated  rock  with  a  Memorial  Niche  of  Setaw,  governor  of  Ethiopia 
under  Ramses  II. ;  farther  to  the  W.  are  a  Christian  cemetery  and  the 
remains  ef  two  churches.  To  the  N.  of  the  walled  enclosure,  near 
a  modern  Mohammedan  cemetery,  lies  an  early  Nubian  necropolis, 
to  the  W.  of  which  are  remains  of  churches  and  Christian  tombs. 
Extensive  excavations  were  made  here  in  1910-12  by  the  Oxford 
Expedition  under  Dr.  Griffith.  —  On  the  W.  bank  our  attention  is 
attracted  by  the  curious  dunes  extending  between  the  villages  and 
the  desert  expanse  and  consisting  of  sand  and  the  pointed  leaves  of 
tamarisks.  In  the  river  lies  Gezhet  Faros,  a  large  island,  known  as 
Artikargu  ('rich  island')  by  the  Nubians. 

Opposite  the  S.  end  of  the  island,  on  the  W.  bank,  lies  the 
village  of  Aksheh,  with  the  remains  of  a  small  temple  built  by 
Ramses  II. 

We  next  reach  the  scattered  village  of  Sarreh  (Sara),  on  both 
banks  of  the  Nile.  Here,  on  the  E.  bank,  are  the  remains  of  Coptic 
conventual  buildings  and  three  churches,  all  within  a  wall  of  an 
earlier  period.  About  1/2  M.  farther  S.  lies  a  fourth  church,  to  the 
E,  of  which  is  a  hill  with  graffiti  of  the  Middle  Empire. 

Farther  on ,  on  the  W.  bank,  are  remains  of  Coptic  buildings 
and  a  ruined  Coptic  church.  29  M.  Dibeireh  (Debeira,  Debiera),  on 
both  banks,  with  fine  palm  groves.  In  the  river  lies  the  Island  of 
Dibeireh.  Farther  on  we  pass  (331/2  M.)  Ashkit  (  E.  bank)  and  Arlcm 
{Arqin;  W.  bank),  beyond  which  the  river-banks  again  become  flat 
and  barren. 

40  M.  Wadi  Haifa  (^Sudan  Government  Rest  House,  R.  20,  pens, 
from  40  pias.,  good),  often  called  simply  Haifa,  is  a  clean  little 
town  on  the  E.  bank,  founded  by  the  British  on  the  site  of  several 
Nubian  villages.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name 
in  the  Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan.  It  contains  a  hospital,  a  small  bazaar, 
and  a  pretty  mosque,  and,  including  the  Nubian  village  of  Dabarosa 
on  the  N.,  has  2675  inhabitants.  Haifa  is  the  starting-point  of  the 
government  railway  to  Khartum  (p.  419).  The  government  steamers 
lie  to  close  to  the  station.  The  military  railway  from  Haifa  to  Kerma 
(at  the  Third  Cataract;  p.  4201  is  no  longer  used. 

About  11/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  Haifa  is  the  British  Camp  or  Lines 
(called  Geiger  by  the  natives),  the  base  for  the  campaign  against 
the  Mahdists  (p.  427;  donkeys  obtainable  at  the  rest-house).  It  has 
lost  much  of  its  military  importance.  Besides  the  partly  disused 
barracks  and  stores  it  contains  the  residence  of  the  commandant, 
large  railway  workshops,  etc. 


412   Route  31.  SECOND  CATARACT. 

On  the  W.  bank,  opposite  Wadi  Haifa,  a  little  to  the  N,  of  a  large 
and  conspicuous  sycamore-tree,  lay  the  ancient  town  of  Bahen,  the 
site  of  which  may  he  reached  hy  boat  from  the  town  of  Haifa  in 
1-2  hrs.  (according  to  the  wind).  The  remains  of  two  temples  are 
still  extant.  The  North  Temple,  dating  from  the  beginning  of  the 
12th  Dyn.,  was  built  of  brick,  with  the  exception  of  the  pillars  in 
the  first  hall  and  the  jambs  of  the  entrance-door,  which  were  of 
sandstone.  It  is  much  damaged  and  sanded  up.  The  inscriptions 
found  here  date  from  the  time  of  Amenophis  II.  and  Sethosl.  The 
South  Temple,  about  50  yds.  distant,  was  exhumed  in  1887  by 
Col.  (now  Maj.-Gen.  Sir  Ch.  H.)  Smith  and  is  now  protected  by  a 
wooden  structure  (adm.  10  pias.}.  It  is  in  better  preservation  than 
the  other,  its  sandstone  walls  and  pillars  still  rising  to  the  height 
of  5-6  ft.  This  S.  temple  was  built  by  Thutmosis  III.  and  Hat- 
shepsut  and  dedicated  to  Horns  of  Buhen.  The  cartouches  and 
figures  of  Hatshepsut  have  been  systematically  defaced  or  con- 
verted into  those  of  Thutmosis  II.  (p.  cii).  The  temple  stands  from 
E.  to  W.  Close  to  the  river -bank,  where  traces  of  a  quay  may  be 
made  out,  is  a  brick  Pylon,  the  S.  tower  of  which  rises  like  a  mas- 
sive pillar.  Behind  is  a  large  Hall,  the  present  form  of  which  is 
due  to  a  reconstruction,  probably  at  the  beginning  of  the  20th  Dyn- 
asty. The  pillars  and  columns  on  which  the  roof  rested  bear  not 
only  the  original  reliefs  and  inscriptions  of  Thutmosis  III.  but  also 
numerous  hieroglyphic  inscriptions  added  by  officials  of  the  New 
Empire.  There  are  also  Greek,  Carian,  and  Meroitic  inscriptions. 
On  one  pillar  is  a  long  and  pompous  inscription  celebrating  the 
deeds  of  Thutmosis  III.  Behind  this  hall  lies  the  Temple  Proper, 
the  back  of  which  adjoined  the  cliff,  while  on  the  other  three  sides 
were  colonnades  with  'proto-Doric'  columns.  Within  are  a  Trans- 
verse Hall,  communicating  with  the  Sanctuary,  and  several  other 
chambers.  The  admirable  mural  reliefs,  many  of  which  retain  their 
colouring,  represent  the  Pharaoh  in  presence  of  the  gods.  —  Beside 
the  temples  lie  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town,  and  on  a  hill  to  the 
AV.  are  graffiti  of  the  Middle  Empire.  In  the  desert  close  by  are 
ancient  graves. 

^Excursion  to  the  Second  Cataract  (5-9  hrs.).  —  The  camels 
or  donkeys  should  be  sent  in  advance  to  the  ruined  temples  of  Buhen, 
whither  the  traveller  proceeds  by  boat  (see  above) ;  or  the  start  may  be 
made  from  the  W.  bank  immediately  opposite  Wadi  Haifa.  The  ride 
from  Buhen  to  the  rock  of  Abusir  takes  I1/4  hr.  by  donkey. 

After  leaving  the  ruined  temples  the  route  at  first  skirts  the 
stream,  then  turns  inland  towards  the  desert,  and  finally,  gradually 
ascending,  returns  to  the  stream  shortly  before  the  cataract  is  reached. 

The  Second  Cataract  is  superior  in  scenic  beauty  to  the  First 
Cataract  at  Assuan.  It  lies  at  the  N.  end  of  the  gorge  of  the  Batn 
fl-Hagar  ('belly  of  stones') ,  which  begins  at  the  island  of  Dal, 
about  90  M.  to  the  S.,  and  through    which  the  river  descends  in  a 


SEMNEH.  31.  Route.   4 It- 

series  of  rapids,  over  rocks  of  greywacke,  greenstone,  and  granite, 
forming  numerous  rocky  islands  in  its  coarse.  The  best  point  of 
view  is  the  abrupt  rocky  hill  of  Abu.ftr,  on  the  W.  bank.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  contrastina;  strongly  with  the  green  of  the  tamarisk- 
trees,  lies  a  chaos  of  glistening  black  boulders,  through  which  the 
river  forces  its  way  in  foaming  cataracts,  especially  line  at  the  time 
of  the  inundation.  In  the  distance  to  the  N.  are  the  white  houses 
and  slender  minaret  of  Wadi  Haifa  on  the  E.  bank,  and  the  great 
sycamore  and  the  pylon  of  the  S.  temple  of  Buhen  (p.  4121  on  theW. 
bank;  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  broad  river,  rise  the  mountains  of  the 
desert;  to  the  S.  lie  the  rocky  islets  among  the  rapids.  Numerous 
modem  travellers  (including  Champollion,  p.  t  xxvi)  have  left  in- 
scriptions on  the  rock  of  Abusir. 

From  Wadi  Haifa  to  Semneh. 

371/2  M.  —  A  visit  to  the  naturully  beautiful  and  historically  interest- 
ing N.  part  of  the  Bain  el-Hagar  (p.  412)  requires  4  or  5  days  at  least. 
Camels  may  be  hired  at  Haifa  for  about  17  pias.  each  per  day,  including 
the  driver's  wages  and  food.    A  tent  and  provisions  are  necessary. 

By  the  W.  bank  to  the  rocky  hill  of  Abuftr,  see  p.  412  and  above. 
Thence  the  route  leads  through  the  desert  to  (1  hr.)  the  village  of 
Matuga,  on  the  river.  In  another  hour  we  reach  Mirgisseh^  a  fortress 
of  the  Middle  Empire,  situated  on  a  steep  rock  close  to  the  Nile. 
Within  the  girdle-wall,  which  is  built  partly  of  sun-dried  bricks  and 
partly  of  rubble,  are  the  scanty  ruins  of  a  small  temple  erected  by 
Sesostris  III.  On  the  island  of  Dabeh,  nearly  opposite,  are  some 
ancient  Egyptian  fortifications.  —  The  route  leads  round  the  steep 
rocks  lying  to  the  S.  of  Mirgisseh  and  returns  to  the  river-bank 
through  a  picturesque  defile.  On  the  opposite  (E.)  bank  lies  'Abkeh. 
In  11/2  hr.  we  reach  the  straggling  commune  of  Gemmeiy  with  some 
ruined  Christian  domed  tombs,  several  of  which  contain  remains 
of  frescoes  and  inscriptions. 

The  second  day's  march  leads  through  the  desert  for  the  first 
six  hours.  We  regain  the  river  opposite  Sarras.  Numerous  rocky 
islets  interrupt  the  stream;  on  one  of  these,  to  the  S.,  are  the  ruins 
of  an  Arab  castle,  perched  upon  a  rock.  Alternately  skirting  the 
river  and  traversing  the  desert  for  another  hour,  we  next  reach  Shal- 
fak,  with  a  well-preserved  fortress  of  the  Middle  Empire. 

The  third  day's  route  also  leads  through  the  desert,  from  the 
heights  in  which  we  have  occasional  glimpses  of  the  river-valley. 
In  2  hrs.  we  find  ourselves  opposite  the  rocky  island  of  TJronarti 
(Arab.  Gezlret  el-Melek,  i.e.  'king's  island'),  on  the  N.  end  of  whicli 
are  the  ruins  of  a  fortress  of  the  Middle  Empire  and  of  a  chapel  built 
by  Thutmosis  III.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  island  are  considerable 
rapids.  In  2  hrs.  more  we  reach  Semneh,  which  marked  the  S.  limit 
of  Egypt  under  the  Middle  Empire.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  are  massive 
fortifications,  with  well-preserved  girdle-walls.  Within  the  latter  is 


414   Route  31.  KUMMEH. 

a  temple,  built  by  Thutmosis  111.  a.nd  Hatshepsut  and  dedicated 
to  the  Nubian  deity  Tetun.  The  river,  here  flowing  between  granite 
cliffs,  forms  numerous  rapids.  —  On  the  E.  bank,  opposite  Semneh, 
lies  the  village  of  Kummeh,  to  which  the  traveller  is  ferried  on  a 
raft.  At  Kummeh  are  a  ruined  fortress  of  the  Middle  Empire  and  a 
temple  of  the  same. date  as  that  at  Semneh.  The  numerous  inscrip- 
tions on  both  banks  of  the  stream  are  interesting,  especially  those 
of  the  end  of  the  12th  and  of  the  13th  Dyn.  with  flood-marks,  from 
which  it  would  appear  that  the  Nile  used  to  rise  about  26  ft.  higher 
than  it  does  at  present.  The  explanation  probably  is  that  in  the 
course  of  centuries  the  impetuous  river  has  hollowed  out  its  rocky 
bed  to  the  extent  of  26  ft.  (comp.  Ball,  Qu.  Journ.  Geol.  Soc.  LIX, 
1903,  65-79). 


UPPER  NUBIA  AND  THE  SUDAN.  + 


Route  Page 

Political  Summary.  Climate.  Preliminary  Information  415 

3'2.   From  Wadi  Haifa  to  Khartum 419 

From    Abu   Hamed   to  Kareima.     Gebel  Harkal ,   419.  — 

From  Kareima  to  Kerma,  420. 

33.  From  Suez  to  Khartum  via  Port  Sudan 423 

From  Sallnm  Junction  to  Suakin,  425. 

34.  Khartum  and  Omdurman 42(") 

From  Khartum  to  Kosti,  on  the  White  Nile,  via  Wad 
BIcdani  and  Sennar,  432.  —  From  Kosti  to  El-ObeVd. 
From  Khartum  via  Ed-Dueim  to  Kosti,  433.  —  From 
Khartiim  to  Gondokoro  and  Rejaf,  on  the  Bahr  el-Gebel, 
434.  —  From  Khartum  to  Meshra'  ei--Rek.  From  Khar- 
tum to  Gambela  (on  the  Sobat),  436. 


The  Anglo -Egyptian  S6dfi,n  (pp.  xlvi,  oxxiv,  cxxv),  occupying 
an  area  (984.520  sq.  M.  including  Darfur)  approximately  equal  to 
that  of  Central  Europe,  extends  from  a  line  drawn  at  Faras  (p.  411), 
below  Wadi  Haifa,  on  the  N.,  to  the  fifth  parallel  of  latitude  on 
the  S.  It  includes  the  fourteen  provinces  (Mudiriyeh)  of  Bahr 
el-Ghazdl  (capital,  Wau),  Berber  (capital,  Ed-Damer),  Blue  Nik. 
(capital,  WadMedani),  Bongola  (capital,  Merowel,  Haifa,  Ka  s^ala, 
fChartum,  Kordofan  (capital,  El-Obe'id),  Nuba  Mountains  (capital, 
Talodi),  Mongolia,  Red  Sea  (capital,  Port  Sudan),  Scnndr  (capital, 
Singa),  Upper  Nile  (capital,  Kodok),  and  White  Nile  (capital,  Ed- 
Dueim).  The  population  is  now  nearly  3,000,000.  The  British 
and  Egyptian  flags  fly  side  by  side  in  the  Sudan,  and  the  rights  of 
the  joint  possessors  are  defined  by  a  convention  signed  on  Jan.  19th, 
1899.  The  interest  on  the  Sudan  war-loan  is  guaranteed  to  the 
IJritish  Empire.  The  cost  of  the  civil  administratiou  is  borne  by 
the  Sudan,  which,  until  1913,  was  assisted  by  a  subvention  front 
the  Egyptian  government.  Egypt  bears  the  main  cost  of  the  army, 
but  the  Sudan  also  contributes  to  its  maintenance.  Several  regiments 
of  the  Egyptian  Army  are  stationed  in  the  Stidan,  and  a  detached 
body  of  the  British  Army  of  Occupation  in  Egypt  is  quartered  at 
Khartum,  under  the  command  of  the  Sirdar.  The  Governor-General 
(Arab.  Hakim  'Am)  and  Sirdar  of  the  Egyptian  Army  is  a  British 
officer  (since  1899,  Lieut.-Gen.  Sir  Reginald  Wingate,  formerly 
chief  of  staff  to  Lord  Kitchener),  appointed  by  the  Khedive  on  the 
recommendation  of  the  British  government,  without  whose  consent 
he  may  not  be  dismissed.     The  Mudirs  (p.  xlvii)  of  the  provinces 


+  Comp.  the  Maps  at  the  end  of  the  volume  and  at  p.  432. 


416  THE  StiDAN. 

are  British  officers  and  officials,  but  the  Ma'murs  are  Egyptian  offi- 
cers. The  revenues  of  the  Sudan  Government  in  its  first  year  f  1899) 
amounted  to  £  E  126,596,  its  expenditure  to  £  E  230,238;  in 
1912  the  revenue  and  expenditure  were  respectively  £  E  1,428,600 
and  £E  1.490,700,  while  for  19l3  the  anticipated  revenue  is 
£  E  1,631,000.  The  development  of  the  railway  system  and  the 
artificial  irrigation,  now  being  actively  carried  out,  by  which  cotton- 
growing  especially  is  furthered  (comp.  pp.  432,  433),  ensure  a  great 
economic  future  for  the  Sudan.  In  1909  the  net  profits  of  the 
Sudanese  railways  were  £  E  72,039,  in  1912  £E  133,753;  in  1909 
the  value  of  the  cotton  crop  was  £E  63,000,  in  1911  it  was  £E 
267,000.  In  1912  over  2,000.000  acres  were  under  cultivation  as 
against  1,235,500  acres  in  1908.  The  total  value  of  exports  in 
1909  was  £E  674,000,  in  1911  £E  1,377,000,  and  in  1912  £E 
1,373,000;  the  value  of  imports  in  each  of  these  years  was  £E 
1,360,000,  £E  2,570,000,  and  £E  2,261,000.  An  ad  valorem  tax 
of  20  per  cent  is  levied  upon  the  export  of  gum,  india-rubber,  and 
ivory;  certain  articles  of  general  consumption  are  taxed  10  per 
cent  of  their  value  in  the  towns;  and  among  the  other  sources  of 
revenue  are  taxes  upon  date-palms,  boats,  and  irrigation  wheels, 
the  house  tax,  the  land  sale  tax  etc.  The  considerable  import  trade 
in  cotton  goods,  sugar,  liquors,  iron  goods,  and  machinery  is  in 
the  hands  of  Greek  and  Arab  merchants  (gellaba).  The  great  bulk 
of  these  goods  comes  via  Port  Sudan  (p.  425).  Beside  the  Egyptian 
coins  the  Maria  Theresa  dollar,  a  reproduction  of  the  Austrian 
issue  of  1780  (Arab,  rtyal  Abu  nukta),  equivalent  to  8^/2  or  9  pias., 
is  current  in  the  districts  adjoining  the  Abyssinian  frontier  (Sennar, 
Kassala)  and  in  Eritrea.  It  is  not  legal  tender  in  the  Sudan  but  is 
the  only  coin  the  Abyssinians  will  accept.  British  sovereigns  also 
are  current  in  the  Sudan  and  are  accepted  by  the  government. 

The  Climate  resembles  that  of  Upper  Egypt  (p.  Ixxvii),  though 
th«  maximum  of  temperature  is  higher  and  the  occasional  variations 
have  a  greater  range.  At  Khartum  the  maximum  heat  is  reached 
twice  a  year,  in  April  or  May  (113°  Fahr.)  and  September  (109° 
Fahr.).  Violent  sand-storms  (Arab.  habUb)  are  frequent  from  May 
to  September,  followed  by  deluges  of  rain,  which  are  apt  to  cause 
fever.  —  The  best  Season  for  a  visit  to  the  Siidan  is  between  Nov. 
and  Feb.  inclusive,  though  March  also  is  frequently  suitable. 

Travel  in  the  Sudan.  Visitors  to  the  Sudan  are  recommended 
to  make  the  outward  journey  via  Assuan  and  Wadi  Haifa  and 
to  return  by  the  Red  Sea  route  (R.  33)  via  Port  Sudan  to  Suez, 
whence  the  train  may  be  taken  to  Cairo;  or  to  reverse  this  route. 
A  circular-tour  ticket  from  Cairo  to  Khartum  and  back,  in  either 
direction,  costs  £E  23,  70  pias.  The  direct  journey  from  Cairo  to 
Khartiim  by  railway  (steamboat  between  Assuan  and  Wadi  Haifa) 
takes  91-921/2  hrs.  and  costs  £E  14,  96  pias.  (incl.  sleeping-.-ar 
supplements).   In  winter  circular  tours  are  organized,  taking  about 


THE  StoAN.  417 

three  weeks  from  Cairo  and  visiting  the  chief  points  in  Egypt  and 
the  Sudan;  return-fare  £E  75,  including:  1st  cl.  on  the  train  and 
steamboat  and  hotel-acommodation  at  Khartum.  —  The  Sudan 
Government  Steamers  plying  from  Khartum  to  Gondokoro  and  Rejaf 
(see  p.  434)  and  those  making  weekly  six-days  trips  on  the  White 
Nile  (see  p.  4':33)  are  well  equipped  and  provide  everything  that  is 
necessary  for  the  tourist's  comfort.  On  most  of  the  regular  postal 
services  also  iu  tlie  Sudan  provisions  and  attendance  are  furnished 
at  a  fixed  daily  cliarge  (comp.  p.  434).  but  on  others  no  food,  bed- 
ding, or  service  is  supplied  (comp.  p.  420).  —  Details  of  all  the 
above  services  are  given  in  the  official  time-tables  of  the  Sudan 
Government  Railways  and  Steamers,  which  may  be  obtained  (1  pias.) 
from  the  tourist-agents  and  the  Sudan  Agency  at  Cairo  (p.  37). 

Outside  the  ordinary  tourist-track  the  traveller  or  sportsman  is  depen- 
dent upon  Camels,  Sailiiig  Boats,  or  privately  chartered  Steamers.  For 
camels  the  charge  at  Kbarlum  is  10-12  pias.  per  day,  in  the  Red  Sea  pro- 
vince 9  pias.;  saddles,  iuf;s,  saddle-bags,  and  water-skias  must  be  supplied 
by  the  hirer.  The  average  load  for  a  camel  is  360 lbs.  (in  two  packages). 
Sailing  boats  ('gyasses'  and  'nuggers"),  roughly  fitted  up  with  a  kind  of 
house-boat  cabin,  at  a  charge  of  £  E  1,  40  pia.i.-£  E  2  per  day,  and  daha- 
biyehs,  at  a  charge  oi  £  E  3-f  E  5  per  day,  may  usually  be  obtained  from 
the  Government  Steamers  Department  or  Messrs.  Cook's  agent  at  Khartiim. 
Steam-tuL's  to  tow  thes'^  in  the  absence  of  wind,  cost  £  E  8^sEE  12  per  day. 
Steamers,  costing  i£E  12-i£E  35  per  Hay,  may  be  chartered  from  the  Govern- 
ment Steamers  Department.  —  Travellers  who  intend  iniiking  a  journey  olT 
the  beaten  track  shruld  communicate  beforehand  with  the  Sudan  Agent  at 
Cairo  (p.  37).  All  arranaements  with  natives  should  be  made  with  the  aiil  of 
the  i/a'm<Jr,  or  head  of  the  sub  district,  and  contracts  should  be  concluded 
in  his  presence.  —  Travelling  in  the  Sudan  is  much  facilitated  by  the  Rest 
iZoMsei  (quarters  only)  maintained  by  the  Government  in  numerous  villages; 
permission  to  use  these  must  be  obtained  from  the  authorities  in  Khartum. 

Outfit.  Light  clotliing,  of  flannel  or  tussore  silk,  with  a  sun- 
helmet  to  protect  the  temples  and  neck,  should  be  worn  by  day :  but 
a  warm  rug  and  overcoat  for  night-travelling  and  during  cold  winds 
should  not  be  forgotten.  Stout  boots  for  visiting  ruins  and  riding- 
breeches  and  gaiters  for  camel-excursions  are  convenient.  Evening 
dress  need  not  be  warmer  than  that  worn  at  home.  —  Photographic 
materials  are  best  brought  from  home,  although  they  are  obtainable 
in  Khartiam.  Plates  are  on  the  whole  preferable  to  Alms,  which  are 
apt  to  suffer  from  the  climate.  —  Those  Mho  do  not  travel  by  the 
tourist -trains  or  tourist  -  steamers  should  provide  themselves  mth 
camp-beds  and  bedding,  mosquito-nets,  filters,  cooking-apparatus, 
provisions,  quinine,  etc.  All  these  are  to  be  obtained  at  Khartum 
at  fair  prices.  A  servant  who  can  cook  is  quite  indispensable,  and 
may  be  obtained  at  "Wadi  Haifa  or  Khartiim  (wages  £E  3  to  £E  5 
per  month).  The  advice  and  assistance  of  Europeans  acquainted  with 
the  country  should  in  all  cases  be  obtained  if  possible. 

Spoet.  Excellent  big-game  and  other  shooting  may  be  enjoyed 
in  the  Sudan,  the  best  months  being  Jan.,  Feb.,  and  March,  when 
the  long  grass  has  disappeared.  The  regulations  as  to  the  impor- 
tation of  firearms  and  ammunition,  game-licences,  protected  areas, 


418  THE  SUDAN. 

and  other  details  may  be  learned  from  the  official  Notes  for  Travellers 
and  Sportsmen  in  the  Sudan  (see  below)  or  from  the  Sudan  Agency 
at  Cairo  (p.  37).  The  importation  of  rifles  and  ammunition  of 
•303  calibre  is  absolutely  prohibited.  Game -licences,  valid  for  a 
year,  are  of  two  classes.  Licence  A,  costing  £E  50,  entitles  the 
holder  to  shoot  any  unprotected  animal  or  bird,  including  elephants, 
hippopotami,  rhinoceroses,  giraffes,  buffaloes,  antelopes,  etc.  Hold- 
ers of  Licence  B,  costing  £E  5,  are  restricted  to  hippopotami, 
ibexes,  wild  sheep,  wart-hogs,  and  other  smaller  and  commoner 
varieties.  Both  licences  are  subject  to  a  limitation  of  bag  in  respect 
of  the  rarer  animals  and  birds.  For  each  giraffe  killed  an  additional 
fee  of  j£  E  20  is  charged;  while  wild  asses,  zebras,  ostriches,  shoe- 
bill  cranes  (balaeniceps),  ground-hornbills,  secretary-birds,  and  rhi- 
noceroses in  Kassala  and  Sennar  may  not  be  shot  at  all.  —  A  tem- 
porary licence  (restricted  as  Licence  B)  may  be  obtained,  for  not  more 
than  four  days,  at  25  pias.  per  day,  by  those  who  already  hold  gun- 
licences  (for  a  gun  50,  for  a  revolver  25  pias.).  —  Hunting  expeditions 
are  organized  by  Hasan  Mohammed  esh-Shami  (Shepheard's  Hotel, 
Cairo),  D.E.  Munari  (p.  38),  and  others;  and  the  Sudan  Government 
will,  if  required,  supply  sportsmen  with  boats,  camp-outfit,  pro- 
visions, native  servants,  shikaris,  gun-bearers,  etc.  Sportsmen  un- 
acquainted with  Arabic  should  bring  with  them  from  Cairo  a  drago- 
man licensed  to  act  in  the  Sudan. 

For  intercourse  with  the  natives,  which  to  the  intelligent  traveller  is 
one  of  the  charms  of  the  Sudan,  a  supply  of  articles  for  gifts  and  barter 
should  he  brought.  The  Sndan  Almanac  (see  below)  contains  a  list  of  the 
principal  articles  of  barter,   as  prized  by  the  various  tribes. 

LiTERATOBE.  The  Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan  (2  vols. ;  revised  edition,  Lon- 
don, 1906),  Handbook  of  the  .Sudan  (London,  1898;  Supplement,  1899), 
and  Report  on  the  Nile  and  Country  between  Dongohi,  etc.  and  Omdur- 
man  (Londcjn,  1898),  all  by  Cou7il  Gleichen;  Dr.  E.  A.  Wallis  Budge's  The 
Egyptian  Sudan  (illus.;  London,  1907;  2  vols.);  Artin  Pasha's  England  in 
the  Sudan  (London,  1911);  Crotofoofs  The  Island  of  Meroe  (ArchfEological 
Survey  of  Egypt,  19th  Memoir:  L  .ndon,  1911);  J.  Ohrwalder,  Ten  Years' 
Captivity  in  the  Slahdi's  Cimp  (transl.  by  Sir  R.  Wingate;  London,  1891); 
Sir  Rudolf  Slatiii's  Fire  and  Sword  in  the  Sudan  (London,  1896) ;  Steevens's 
With  Kitchener  to  Khartum  (London,  1898);  John  Ward's  Our  Sudan,  its 
Pyramids  and  Progress  (London,  1905;  Ts.  6rf.);  J.  Kelly  G-ifl'en's  Egyptian 
Sudan  (New  York,  1906) ;  Hon.  Sidneij  PeeVs  Binding  of  the  Nile  and  the  New 
Soudan  (London,  1904) ;  Wingate's  Mahdism  and  the  Egyptian  Sudan  (London, 
1900);  A.  B.  Lloyd's  Uganda  to  Khartoum  (London,  1906;  5  s.) ;  Sit-  C.  Wilson's 
From  Korti  to  Khartum  (London,  1885);  Ed.  FothergilVs  Five  Years  in  the 
Sudan  (London,  1910;  16  s.);  1).  C.  E.  F.  Comyn's  Service  and  Sport  in  the 
Sudan  (London,  1911;  12  s.  6rf.);  Ethel  Stevens's  My  Sudan  Year  (London, 
1912);  and  Amery's  English- Arabic  Vocabulary  for  the  Use  of  Officials  in 
the  Anglo-Egyptian  Sudan  (Cairo,  1905;  60  pias.).  The  Sudan  Almanac  (1«.  or 
5  pias.)  is  a  useful  annual  publication  of  the  Intelligence  Office.  The  official 
Notes  for  Travellers  and  Sportamen  in  the  Sudan  (Cairo,  1909;  3rd  edit.,  with 
Addenda  1912;  10  pias.)  and  Butler  s  Brief  Notes  for  Identifying  Game 
Animals  of  the  Sudan  (5  pias.)  are  indispensable  to  sportsmen.  All  these 
may  be  obtained  in  Cairo.  —  Maps,  see  p.  cxc. 


419 


32.  From  Wadi  Haifa  to  Khartixm. 


581  M.  SBdan  Ooveknment  Railway.  A  Train  de  Lnxe,  with  dust-proof 
sleeping  and  dining  cars,  runs  throughout  the  year  twice  a  week  (Thurs. 
&  Sat.)  from  Wadi  Haifa  to  Khartum  in  24  hrs.,  in  connection  with  the 
siovernment  express  steamers  'Sudan'  and  'Britain'  (p.  383;  fare  1st  cl. 
£M  5,  85  pias.,  2nd  cl.  £E  4,  d^/2  \>i&».i  meals  respectively  70  and  40  pias. 
per  day;  slet'pinu'-car  supplement  £K  1).  From  mid-Jan.  to  mid-March 
there  is  an  additional  service  both  ways  on  Mon.  (in  connection  with  a 
special  steamer  service  to  and  from  Assuan,  see  p.  383).  —  Detailed  in- 
formation may  he  obtained  at  the  tourist-agencies  in  Cairo  (p.  38)  and  at 
the  Sudan  Government  Railways  Agency  at  the  railway  station  at  Assuan. 

Wadi  Haifa  and  excursions  thence  to  the  Second  Cataract  and 
to  Semneh,  see  pp.  411-414. 

The  construction  of  the  railway  to  Khartiim  was  undertaken  in 
1896-97  in  order  to  support  the  advance  of  the  Anglo-Egyptian  army ; 
and  ill  spite  of  the  enormous  difficulty  of  laying  a  railway  line  across 
the  sandy  and  stony  surface  of  the  desert,  the  worii  was  so  energeti- 
cally carried  on  that  it  advanced  almost  a  mile  daily.  As  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  Suez  Canal  (p.  183)  the  one  essential  point  was 
the  provision  of  an  adequate  supply  of  water  for  the  workmen  and 
the  machinery.  A  series  of  watering- stations  (I-VI)  was  accordingly 
established,  at  which  wells,  sunk  to  a  depth  of  80  ft.,  tap  the  sub- 
terranean water,  which  is  found  to  flow  from  the  S.  —  On  the  E,  rises 
the  bare,  violet-coloured  chain  of  hills,  beyond  which  lies  (124  M.) 
B7r  Mur'it  and  behind  which  runs  the  caravan-route  from  Korosko 
to  Abu  Hamed  (comp.  p.  399).  The  stony  desert  gradually  gives 
place  to  undulating  sand-hills.  As  the  train  approaches  Abu  Hamed 
the  dark-coloured  ranges  of  hills,  which  border  the  left  bank  of  the 
Nile,  become  visible  in  the  distance.  Isolated  ditm-palms,  fields  of 
barley,  conical  sayal-acacias,  and  finally  a  grove  of  palms  announce 
the  proximity  of  the  river. 

232  M.  Abu  Hamed  (baths  at  the  railway  station).  From  the 
station  we  have  a  glimpse  of  the  poor  village,  which  takes  its  name 
from  a  sheikh  buried  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  important  position 
at  the  bend  of  the  river,  which  here  turns  abruptly  to  the  S.W.,  was 
captured  from  the  dervishes  in  Aug.,  1897,  by  General  Hunter, 
who  had  advanced  from  Dongola. 

From  Abd  Hamed  to  Kakkima,  145  M.,  railway  in  9^/4  hrs.  (1st  cl.  fare 
iE  E  1,  2072  pias.);  trains  every  Frid.  &  Sun.  (returning  Sat.  &  Thurs.  in 
01/2  hrs.),  in  connection  with  the  trains  to  and  from  Khartum.  This  line 
evades  the  difflcult  naviiiation  of  the  Fovrth  Cataract  and  provides  con- 
nection with  the  rich  province  of  Dongola.  —  On  the  right  hank,  above 
the  cataract,  lies  Kirbekan,  where  General  Enrle  fell  in  1885. 

About  2',2  3!.  below  Kareima  and  2  M.  from  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile 
rises  the  Gebel  Barkal,  the  'sacred  mountain'  of  ancient  in.scripfions.  This 
isolated  rocky  hill  rises  abruptly  from  the  plain  to  a  height  of  302  ft.  At 
its  base  extend  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Ethiopian  city  iA  Napaia.  Under 
the  New  Empire  Napata  was  the  southernmost  town  under  Egyptian  rule 
and  the  chief  depot  of  the  trade  with  the  Sudan.  It  attained  the  zenith  of 
its  prosperity  in  the  9th  cent.  B.C.,  when  it  became  the  capital  of  an  inde- 
pendent Ethiopian  kinjidom  (p.  386).  Taharka  and  his  .successors  (p.  cv) 
resided  here  and  built  sumptuous  temples  for  Amon-Re  and  other  deities. 
When  the  royal  residence  was  transferred  about  600  B.C.  to  Meroe  (p.  422), 


420    Route  32.  DONGOLA.  From   Wadi  Haifa 

farther  to  the  S.,  Napata  began  to  decline;  and  although  it  afterwards 
became  the  seat  of  the  court  more  than  once  and  though  it  remained 
throughout  the  religious  centre  of  the  kingdom,  it  never  regained  its  former 
prosperity.  The  extant  rains  include  many  pyramids,  differing  from  those 
of  Egypt  by  their  slender  form,  and  several  temples,  of  which  those  built 
by  Ramses  II.  and  by  Tabarka  are  specially  noteworthy.  Cailliaud  ex- 
plored the  site  in  1822  and  Lepsius  in  1844  and  excavations  are  now  being 
made  under  the  auspices  of  the  University  of  Oxford. 

Feom  Karkima  to  Kekma  via  Merowe  and  Dongola,  government  steamer 
twice  weekly  in  winter  in  2^/2  days  (upstream  about  4  days).  Passengers 
must  cater  for  themselves.  There  is  also  a  frequented  caravan-route  from 
Kareima  to  Dongola.  The  first  station  is  (6  51.)  Merowe  (rest-house), 
capital  of  the  province  of  Dongola,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jiile,  beside 
which  lies  the  village  of  Abu  D6m.  To  the  E.,  in  the  desert,  is  the  Wddi 
Ohazdl,  with  the  ruins  of  a  large  Clirjstian  convent.  On  the  right  bank, 
opposite  Merowe,  is  the  now  abandoned  village  of  Merowe,  with  the  ruins 
of  the  government  building,  erected  on  ttie  remains  of  a  mediaeval  for- 
tress, which  was,  in  its  lurn,  built  with  the  stones  of  an  ancient  edifice. 
Among  the  ruins  is  an  altar  dedicated  by  Piankhi,  the  Ethiopian  king.  ■ — 
On  the  left  bank,  about  6  M.  above  Abu  Dom,  is  the  pyramid-field  of 
Belal,  a  group  of  at  least  two  dozen  pyramids,  probably  older  than  those 
of  the  Gebel  Barkal.  They  are  built  of  soft  sandstone  and  are  much 
weather-worn.  Close  by  is  the  village  of  NOri.  —  Tangassi,  on  the  left 
bank,  the  next  steamboat  station,  is  the  scene  on  Tues.  of  one  of  the 
largest  markets  in  the  Sudan.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  some  ancient 
pyramids;  and  on  ttie  opposite  bank  lies  the  pyramid-field  of  El-Kurru. 
About  2/4  hr.  farther  on,  near  the  village  of  ZHma,  on  the  right  bank,  is 
another  group  of  more  than  thirty  pyramids.  —  Still  farther  to  the  S.W. 
in  the  Nile  valley,  on  the  left  bank,  about  30  M.  from  Merowe,  lies  Koi  (i 
(rest-house),  which  was  General  Wolseley's  headquarters  in  Dec,  1884, 
during  his  unavailing  dash  to  relieve  Gorddn  (p.  422).  On  the  same  bank, 
about  50  M.  farther  (12  hrs.  by  steamer  from  Korti),  lies  Debba  (rest-house), 
and  farther  downstream  is  Abu  Ouasi,  an  important  trading  point  with  the 
Kabbahish  Beduins,  and  the  starting-point  of  a  caravan  route  to  El-Obeid 
(p.  433;  14-20  days'  journey).  On  the  right  bank,  5  51.  farther  down,  lies 
Dongola  el-'AgUia  (-Old  Dongola'),  the  former  capital  of  the  province, 
which,  though  now  deserted,  is  full  of  interest.  In  the  middle  ages  it  was 
the  capital  cf  a  Christian  Kubian  empire,  and  it  still  contains  a  fine  old 
church.  Beyond  the  steamboat  stations  of  Khandak  (rest-house)  and  Urhi 
we  reach  New  Dongola  or  El-Ordeh  (rest-hou«e),  a  thriving  town  with 
15,(X)0  inhab.,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile.  Finally,  passing  the  island 
of  Argo  (rest-house),  the  steamer  arrives  at  Kerma  (eomp.  p.  411). 

Beyond  Abu  Haraed  the  railway  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Nile 
on  the  border  line  between  the  'Atmur  (steppe)  on  the  E.  and  the 
cultivable  belt  on  the  river-bank  on  the  W.  The  latter  is  marked 
by  palm-trees  and,  lower  down,  by  a  bushy  undergrowth.  Between 
Nov.  and  Jan.  the  verdant  strip  reminds  one  of  the  bank  of  the  Nile 
in  Egypt.  —  In  the  settlements  on  the  banks  we  now  for  the  first 
time  see  the  typical  round  straw  huts  (tukul)  of  Central  Africa,  with 
their  pointed  roofs  and  airy  'recubas'  or  porches. 

248'/2  M.  Dagash  is  the  residence  of  a  Ma'miir,  whose  spacious 
white  house  is  seen  at  a  little  distance  from  the  village.  The  Eobatdb 
and  Sheiklyeh  tribes  here,  together  with  a  few  sub-tribes,  constitute 
the  great  Arab  group  of  the  Monaslr.  The  Monasir  preserve  a  num- 
ber of  ancient  legends  concerning  the  wanderings,  feuds,  and  inter- 
marriages of  their  ancestors,  and  are  exceedingly  prond  of  these 
'histories  of  God's  people'.    In  1884  Col.  Stewart,  General  Gordon's 


to  Khartilm.  ATBARA.  32.  Route.     421 

chief  assistant,  Rousset,  the  French  consul,  and  a  Greek  were 
treacherously  decoyed  to  the  left  bank  and  murdered  by  this  people, 
an  atrocity  by  which  Gordon's  Isolation  was  hastened  and  his  ulti- 
mate fate  sealed.  — 267  M.  Abu  Dh;  291  M.  Shereik,  prettily  situated 
among  palms  near  the  river;  319  M.  El-Karaha. 

Ml M.  El-'Abidtyeh(Abidia)is  situated  above  the  Fifth  Cataract. 
In  the  summer  of  1898  half-a-dozen  stern-wheel  gun-boats  and  three 
large  screw-steamers  for  the  Nile  flotilla  were  put  together  here.  A 
hospital  and  workshops  still  lend  the  place  some  importance. 

362  M.  Berber  (1048  ft;  Rest  House),  or  El-Mekheirif,  was 
destroyed  during  the  Mahdist  rebellion,  but  it  was  afterwards  re- 
built a  little  to  the  N.  and  is  gradually  recovering  its  importance. 
The  town  stretches  along  the  E.  bank  of  the  Nile  for  a  distance  of 
5^2  ^'  The  river-banks  here  are  exceedingly  fertile,  but  very 
scantily  populated,  though  the  government  actively  encourages  the 
settlement  of  peasant  proprietors.  Berber  is  noted  for  riding-iamels, 
woven  fabrics,  silver-work,  leathern  goods  (e.^.  red  shoes),  camel- 
saddles,  water-skins,  saddle-bags,  and  saddle-blankets.  The  Sudan 
salt  prepared  here  formerly  circulated  throughout  all  Central  Africa 
as  an  article  of  barter,  in  the  form  of  small  brown  cones. 

A  caravan-route  leads  from  Berber  to  (246  M.)  Kastala,  a  journey  of 
about  10  days. 

388  M.  Atbara  Junction  (baths  at  the  railway  station),  situated 
to  the  N.  of  the  junction  of  the  Atbara  and  the  Nile,  is  a  flourishing 
place  with  large  railway-workshops.  This  is  the  point  of  divergence 
of  the  Nile  &  Red  Sea  Railway,  which  runs  to  Port  Sudan  and 
Suakin  (see  pp.  426,  425).  To  the  left  of  the  railway  is  a  cemetery 
containing  graves  of  the  British  soldiers  who  died  in  the  hospital 
after  the  battle  of  Atbara.  The  railway  is  here  carried  by  an  iron 
bridge  over  the  river  Atbara  (p.  Ixiv),  the  channel  of  which  is  dry 
from  April  to  June.  —  The  battle  of  Atbara  took  place  on  April  8th, 
1898.  Kitchener  marched  from  Berber  to  Hudi  on  the  Atbara, 
whence  he  attacked  the  Emir  Mahmiid,  who  was  strongly  posted  at 
a  place  called  NakhfUeh.  The  victory  of  the  British  opened  the 
way  for  a  further  advance  to  the  Sildan. 

395  M.  Ed-Ddmer,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Berber,  lies  to 
the  S.  of  the  junction  of  the  Atbara  and  the  Nile,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  latter.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the  remains  of  the  fortified 
British  camp  of  1897-8. 

From  Ed-Damer  a  caravan-route  leads  to  the  S.E.  to  Kuz  Rejab  and 
t6  days)  Kassala  (2822  ft.),  to  which  there  is  a  postal  service. 

408M.  Zeidab.  The  scenery  now  assumes  a  savannah-like  char- 
acter, with  a  bushy  undergrowth,  intersected  by  the  usually  dry  beds 
of  'khors'  or  mountain -torrents.  Game  is  abundant,  including 
gazelles,  hytenas,  hares,  guinea-fowl,  and  bustards.  —  4331/2  M. 
Mutmir;  437  M.  Vmm  'AIL  —  440  M.  KabHshlyeh,  with  a  rest-house 
close  to  the  railway  station. 


/■ 


422    Route  32.  MEROft. 

About  3/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  station  ofKabushiyeh  the  railway  inter- 
sects the  extensive  Buins  of  Meroe,  capital  of  tlie  Ethiopian  empire  (p.  419), 
which  have  been  excavated  since  1909  by  Prof.  J.  tJarstang  (comp.  his 
annual  Interim  Reports  in  the  'Liverpool  Annals  of  Arch(Pology\  1910  et 
seq.,  and  'Meroe,  the  City  of  the  Ethiopians',  Oxford,  19111.  About  V2  M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  railway-line  is  the  large  Temple  of  the  8un,  mentioned  by 
Herodotus,  which  seems  to  have  been  built  by  King  Espelut  (630  B.C.). 
It  rises  in  several  terraces,  the  lowest  of  which  is  surrounded  by  an  arcade. 
On  the  highest  terrace  is  the  sanctuary,  with  the  remains  of  an  obelisk, 
the  symbol  of  the  sun-god.  The  iiavemont  was  of  blue  and  yellow  tiles. 
On  the  exterior  of  the  walls  are  interesting  reliefs,  commemorating  the 
victories  of  the  king.  Also  to  the  E.  of  the  railway,  among  ancient  ceme- 
teries, .stand  two  small  Chapels,  one  dedicated  to  the  Ethiopian  lion  god, 
the  other  probably  to  a  sacred  cow.  —  To  the  W.  of  the  railway  are  the 
ruins  of  several  houses  and  the  large  Temple  of  Anion,  built  ca.  350  B  C. 
The  entrance  to  the  latter,  which  is  formed  by  a  pylon,  gives  access  to 
several  columned  halls,  beyond  which  are  the  sanctuaries.  The  axis  of 
the  temple  is  about  430  ft.  in  length.  Among  the  objects  of  interest  here 
are  a  stone  throne,  whence  the  god  Amon  pronounced  his  oracles,  a  place 
for  the  sacrifice  of  animals,  and  an  altar  embellished  with  reliefs.  We 
cross  the  town-wall  to  the  W.  of  the  temple  to  the  ruins  of  two  Royal 
Palaces.  Near  these  is  a  hypostyle  hall  (opened  by  the  custodian),  the 
walls  of  which  are  decorated  with  coloured  frescoes  of  the  king  and  royal 
lamily  in  rich  costumes  and  of  captive  foes.  In  1912  were  discovered  the 
ruins  of  a  small  Roman  temple  and,  near  the  river,  the  interesting  remains 
of  the  Royal  Baths,  supposed  to  date  from  about  the  2nd  cent.  B.C.;  the 
statues  and  frescoes  of  the  latter  are  protected  by  wooden  structures  (opened 
by  the  custodian).  In  1913  a  large  portion  of  the  Royal  City  to  the  N.E. 
was  laid  bare,  including  several  streets  and  a  palace  supposed  to  be  that 
of  King  Keteg-Aiiiun. 

About  3  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Kabushiyeh  and  visible  from  the  railway 
ri.se  the  Pyramids  of  Meroe,  on  two  chains  of  hills  separated  by  a  valley. 
Like  the  earlier  pyramids  of  Napata  (p.  419)  these  Meroitic  pyramids  are 
distinguished  by  their  slender  form.  Many  of  them  are  still  adjoined  on 
the  E.  by  mortuary  chapels  decorated  inside  with  religious  reliefs  in  the 
peculiar  Egypto-Ethiopian  style  and  with  hieroglyphic  inscriptions.  The  py- 
lon-shaped portals  are  usually  embellished,  after  the  Egyptian  fashion, 
with  ligures  of  kings  grasping  their  foes  by  the  hair  and  smiting  them  with 
the  sword.  —  About  3|^  M.  to  the  W.,  in  the  plain,  lies  a  third  group, 
in  which,  however,  the  mortuary  chapels  are  in  a  very  ruinous  condition. 

474  M.  Shendi,  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the  ancient 
Fung  empire,  is  an  industrial  centre  of  some  importance,  with 
(^ottou  factories,  dye-houses,  and  iron-works.  —  On  the  left  batik, 
opposite  Shendi,  lies  Metemmeh,  captured  by  Wolseley  on  Jan.  21st, 
1885,  after  the  battle  of  Abu  Klea.  This  was  the  final  act  in  the 
campaign  (comp,  p.  420). 

The  Fung  tribes  distinguished  themselves  by  their  warlike  ability  in 
the  18th  and  beginning  of  the  19th  centuries.  Their  emirs  wore  shirts  of 
chain-mail  and  helmets  with  nose-pieces-,  specimens  of  both  were  captured 
as  late  as  1897.  Lsma'^il,  son  of  Mohammed  Ali,  was  treacherously  captui-ed 
and  burned  at  Shendi  in  1822,  though  his  army  was  rescued  by  the  hasty 
advance  of  the  Defterdar  from  Kordofan. 

At  (497  M.)  Wad  Bendga  are  the  scanty  remains  of  several  late- 
Ethiopian  temples. 

In  the  fertile  Wddi  Awateih,  about  22  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Benaga,  are 
the  ruins  of  Naga  (Rest  House),  reached  in  7-8  hrs.  on  camels  or  ponies, 
which  must  be  ordered  five  days  in  advance  from  the  ma'miir  (p.  xlvii)  of 
Shendi.  Among  the  ruins  are  several  ancient  houses,  three  well-preserved 
late-Ethiopian  temples,  a  graceful  Roman  chapel,  and  also  the  remains  of 
several  smaller  sanctuaries  and  two  ancient  reservoirs.    The  Bedtiins  water 


GULF  OF  SUEZ.  33.  Route.  423( 

their  herds  at  the  well  here.  —  A  journey  of  4  hrs.  to  the  N.E.  from  this 
point  via  the  (ll'/z  M.)  well  of  Mr  Bendga  (Rest  House)  brings  us  fo  the 
(2  M.  farther)  well-preserved  ruins  of  Musauwardt,  in  the  Wddi  es-Sofra, 
probably  at  one  time  the  residence  of  an  Ethiopian  king.  Amoiig  the 
remains  are  those  of  a  large  palace,  several  sanctuaries,  imd  stables  lor 
cattle,  etc.     Thence  we  return  via  Bir  Denaga  to    (28  M.)   Shendi  (p.  422). 

The  devastation  on  the  river-banks  and  the  ruins  of  numerous 
villages  recall  the  raid  of  the  dervishes  in  1895  against  the  Ethiopic- 
Semitic  Ja'dlin,  whom,  in  the  true  spirit  of  Arab  vendetta,  they 
endeavoured  to  exterminate,  root  and  branch,  in  revenge  for  alleged 
treacliery.  Members  of  the  Ja'alin  tribe  are  now  frequently  met  in 
Khartum  as  servants,  soribes,  or  watchmen. 

526  M.  Gebel  Gerri  lies  8Y2  M.  to  the  E.  of  tlie  Sixth  or  Shab- 
iuka  Cataract.  On  each  side  rise  numerous  conical  summits.  — 
549  M.  Geili.  To  the  right  beyond  the  Nile,  the  hills  of  Kerreri 
(p.  431)  come  into  sight. 

579  M.  Khartum  North  (formerly  Halfdyeh),  with  35,285  inhab., 
magazines,  barracks,  stores,  etc.  The  railway  crosses  the  Blue 
Nile  by  a  cantilever  bridge,  710  yds.  in  length,  with  seven  main 
spans  of  217  ft.  each  and  a  swing-section  for  the  passage  of  boats. 
The  bridge  was  designed  by  the  French  engineer  G.  C.  Imbault  and 
was  built  in  1908-10  by  the  Cleveland  Bridge  and  Engineering  Co. 
of  Darlington,  England.    It  is  used  also  for  ordinary  traffic. 

581  M.  Khartftm  {Central  Station,  PI.  D,  4),  see  p.  426. 

33.  From  Suez  to  Khartum  via  Port  Sudan. 

From  Sue::  Docks  (p.  18S)  to  Poi't  Sudan,  steamer  of  the  Khedivial  Mail 
Steamship  Co.  every  Wed.  from  Jan.  to  May  at  5  p.m.  (during  the  rest  of 
the  year  fortnightly),  arriving  on  Sat.  at  11  a.m.;  returning  from  Port 
Sudan  on  Wed.  at  noon  and  reaching  Suez  Docks  on  Sat.  at  10  a.m.  Fares, 
1st  cl.  *E  6,  50  pias.,  2nd  cl.  £  E  4,  7o  pias.  —  From  Port  Sudan  to  Kliartllin, 
490  m.,  express  train  (with  sleeping  and  dining  cars)  every  Sat.  &  Thurs. 
(also  on  Men.  from  mid-.Tan.  to  mid-March)  in  27  hrs.  (fares,  1st  cl.  £  E  5, 
2  pias.,  sleeping-car  supplement  f  E  1;  2nd  cl.  ;£  E  3,  51'/^  pias.). 

Other  stbameks  pkom  Sue',  to  Port  Sudan.  Union  C'istle  lAne  (p.  2), 
monthly  (fares  from  London  or  Southampton  to  Suez  19J.  19s.,  ii.1.  lis. ;  to 
Port  Sudan  111.  6*.,  16/.  16s.,  aud  W/o  surta.K;  British  India  Steam  Navi- 
gation Co.,  every  four  weeks  (fare-s  from  London  as  for  the  Union  Castle 
Line) ;  Austrian  Lloiid,  oni'e  a  month  in  Jan.  &  Feb.  (fares  from  Trieste 
20;.,  16i.;  from  Port  Sa^id  IK.,  7/.;  from  Suez  10/.,  %l.);  Ellerman''s  City  & 
Hall  Lines. 

Suez,  see  p.  187.  —  On  the  left,  soon  after  our  departure,  appear 
the  palms  at  the  Springs  of  Moses  (p.  189),  about  1  M.  from  the 
coast;  on  the  right  is  the  lightship  'Zenobia',  marking  the  Newport 
Reefs.  The  gulf  expands,  'ant  the  reddish  cliffs  on  both  sides  remain 
in  sight.  About  47  nautical  miles  from  the  Newport  reefs,  on  the 
right,  rises  the  white  lighthouse  (80  ft.  high)  on  the  Rd-i  Za'feraneh, 
whose  light  is  visible  for  14  sea-miles.  Farther  on,  on  the  same 
side,  rises  tlio  pictiuesque  Gebel  Ghdrib  (6000-8000  ft.),  at  the  foot 
of  which,  on  the  cape  of  the  same  name,  is  another  lighthouse.  — 
To  the  left  are  the  imposing  mountains  of  Sinai,  the  most  conspi- 

Bakdekeh's  Egypt.    7tli  Edit.  27 


424   Route  33.  RED  SEA.  From  Suet 

cuous  summits  of  which  are  the  serrated  pyramid  of  the  Oebel  Serbdl 
(6759  ft.)  and,  to  the  S.,  the  sugar-loaf  of  the  Oebel  TJmm  Shomar 
(8449  ft.).  At  their  base  stretches  the  barren  desert  of  El-Ku'a^  follow- 
ing the  undulations  of  the  coast-line  and  rising  to  the  height  of  984  ft. 
In  front  of  us  lies  the  solitary  little  port  of  Tiir  or  Tor  (p.  377),  which 
is  a  quarantine-station  during  the  period  of  the  Mecca  pilgrimage.  To 
the  N.W.  of  it  lies  a  small  grove  of  palms.  Among  the  central  moun- 
tains of  Sinai  we  obtain  a  brief  glimpse  of  the  bebel  Musa  (7519  ft.; 
'Mountain  of  Moses'),  the  traditional  Mount  of  the  Covenant,  and 
of  the  Oebel  KaVerin  (^551  ft.)  to  the  right  of  it.  The  Peninsula  of 
Sinai  ends  on  the  S.  in  the  steep  RCis  Mohammed  (98  ft.).  —  The 
coast  on  the  right  is  fringed  by  a  series  of  rocks  and  islets;  on  the 
Ashrafi  Reef  is  an  iron  lighthouse  (140  ft.  high)  with  a  revolving 
light  and  on  the  rugged  islet  of  Shadiran  (1213  ft.)  is  a  flash-light. 

Passing  through  the  Straits  of  Jubal,  4  M.  wide,  the  steamer 
enters  the  Red  Sea.  On  the  left  we  have  a  view  up  the  Gulf  of 
'Akaba,  through  which  the  Er\thraean  depression  is  continued  to  the 
N.  towards  the  Syrian  depression  (Dead  Sea,  Valley  of  the  Jordan). 
We  now  lose  sight  of  the  coast  on  both  sides.  Excluding  the  gulfs 
at  its  N.  end  the  Red  Sea  is  1060  nautical  miles  in  length,  120  to 
190  nautical  miles  in  breadth,  and  has  a  maximum  depth  of  7740  ft. 
The  name  dates  from  antiquity  and  is  supposed  to  have  some  con- 
nection with  the  tribes  of  the  Homerites  ('the  red').  The  sultry  cli- 
mate, which  is  rendered  more  oppressive  by  the  extreme  moisture  of 
the  atmosphere  due  to  evaporation,  is  notorious.  In  August  the  tem- 
perature frequently  rises  to  above  104"  Fahr.  in  the  shade,  when 
sunstroke  is  to  be  guarded  against;  but  during  the  travelling-season 
(Oct.-May)  the  heat  is  often  so  modified  in  the  N.  part  of  the  sea  by 
the  prevailing  N.  winds  that  travellers  returning  from  the  tropics 
run  the  risk  of  taking  cold.  During  this  season  a  strong  S.  wind 
usually  blows  in  the  S.  part  of  the  sea,  rendering  the  outward  journey 
at  least  endurable.  In  any  case,  in  winter  the  steamer  is  seldom 
more  than  one  or  two  days  Avithin  the  zone  of  extreme  heat. 

There  are  several  islands  and  islets  in  the  N.  part  of  the  Red  Sea. 
About  80  nautical  miles  from  Shadwan  (see  above)  lie  the  Brothers, 
two  low  coral  islands,  with  a  lighthouse  (69  ft.  high)  whose  light  is 
visible  for  12  nautical  miles ;  and  about  100  nautical  miles  farther 
S.  is  the  once  dreaded  I'aedalus  Shoal,  a  submarine  coral  reef,  now 
marked  by  a  lighthouse  (59  ft.  high),  with  a  light  visible  for  14  nauti- 
cal miles.  Beyond  that  point  the  steamer's  course  is  free  of  islands 
for  more  than  650  nautical  miles.  At  about  lat.  22  we  descry  on 
the  Egyptian  coast  the  Oebel  Soterba  or  Oebel  Ten  (7280  ft.), 
while  on  the  Arabian  coast  (at  a  distance  from  our  route)  lies  Jidda 
or  Jeddah  (20,000  inhab.),  the  harbour  for  Mecca^  which  lies  50  M. 
inland.  About  40-60,000  Mecca  pilgrims  land  annually  at  Jidda, 
on  their  way  to  the  birthplace  of  the  Prophet  (comp.  p.  Ixxxviii). 

As  we  enter  the  harbour  of  Port  Sudan  several  lighthouses  and 


to  Khartum.  P  ORT  SUDAN.  33.  Route.    4:2b 

coral  reefs  are  passed.  To  the  right,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour,  is 
the  whitewashed  tomb  of  Sheikh  Barghut  ('Sheikh  Flea'),  which  was 
the  only  building  at  this  place  before  the  founding  of  Port  Sudan. 

Port  Sudan. —  Porterage  of  luggage  from  the  steamer  to  the  custom- 
bouse  (where  luggage  is  e.xamined)  and  thence  to  the  train,  1  pias.  per  package. 

Hotel.  Sudan  Oovernment  Railway  Hotel,  of  the  first  class.  —  Bank. 
yalional  Bank  of  Egypt.  —  Anglican  Church  Service.     Oreek  Church. 

Fishing.  E.xcellent  fishing  from  boats  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  har- 
bour, the  waters  of  which  abound  with  the  bayardo,  sirroe,  barracouta  (up 
to  40  lbs.),  and  other  fish.  Tackle  should  be  brought  from  home,  includ- 
ing a  tarpon-rod  (9-10  ft.  long)  or  a  strong  salmon-rod  (ca.  14  ft.)  and  a 
metal  reel  with  not  less  than  200  yds.  of  tarpon-line. 

Port  Sudan,  with  4650inhab.,  the  flourishing  port  of  the  Anglo- 
Egyptian  Sudan  and  the  principal  outlet  for  its  trade  in  gum  (19,090 
tons  in  1912,  valued  at  J9E  598,648)  and  for  cotton,  is  the  chief  town 
of  the  Red  Sea  province,  .situated  in  N.  lat.  19°37'  and  E.  long.  37°14', 
on  a  deep  bay  running  inland  in  a  N.  direction.  It  was  founded  as  the 
terminu.s  of  the  railway  from  the  Nile  to  the  Red  Sea,  constructed  in 
1904-5  and  opened  in  1906,  as  the  dangerous  harbour  of  Suakin 
(see  below)  could  not  be  adapted  to  the  requirements  of  modern 
shipping.  The  imports,  excluding  Government  goods,  amounted  in 
1912  to  £E  631,177  and  the  exports  to  £E  900,158  as  compared 
to  £E  418,088  and  £E  342,987  respectively  in  1909.  The  town 
proper,  with  its  clean  streets  and  neat  houses,  lies  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  harbour,  opposite  the  quays.  Outside  the  town  are  settlements 
of  Sudan  negroes  and  of  Hadendoa  Beduins,  a  nomad  tribe  frequent- 
ing the  mountains  between  the  Nile  and  the  Red  Sea. 

The  interesting  visit  to  Siiakiii  (?ee  below)  is  best  made  as  a  day- 
excursion  (provisions  fhould  be  taken). 

The  R.\iL-WAY  TO  Khartum  crosses  the  harbour  by  a  bridge  to 
the  station  of  Port  Sudan  Town  and  thence  runs  to  the  S.  through 
the  desert-plain  bordering  the  Red  Sea.  —  6  M.  Anotriba.  IS^/o  M. 
Sallom  Junction. 

From  .'^allom  .Tunctiosj  to  Suakin,  20'/2  M.,  branch-railway  in  1  hr. 
10  min.  (fare  28  or  19'/2  pias.);  local  trains  from  Port  Sudan  (see  above) 
in  2V4  hrs.  (52'/2  or  36'/'.'  pias.).  The  only  intermediate  station  is  (15V2  M.) 
Handub.  —  Suakin  or  Sudkim,  more  correctly  called  Sawdkin  (no  hotel 
accommodation;  Eastern  Telegraph  Office;  National  Bank  of  Egypt).,  with 
about  11,000  inhab.,  lies  on  a  mcky  island,  situated  at  the  W.  end  of  an 
inlet,  about  3  M.  from  the  coast.  It  was  the  seaport  of  the  Sudan  before 
the  foundation  of  Port  Sudan  (comp.  above)  and  is  still  an  important 
harbour  for  the  shi|iping  of  cotton  from  the  Tokar  district.  The  town  with 
its  maze  of  alleys  contains  many  tall  Moorish-looking  houses  of  white  coral 
stone,  with  carved  doors  and  windows.  From  the  railway  station  outside 
the  town  a  road,  passing  through  two  old  gateways  which  form  part  of  the 
former  fortifications,  leads  in  20  min.  to  the  Oovernment  House,  a  battle- 
mented  building  picturesquely  overhanging  the  water's  edge.  This  served 
as  the  headquarters  of  both  Gordon  and  Kitchener.  On  the  mainland, 
opposite  the  island,  are  seen  traces  of  the  old  railway  to  Berber,  begun 
by  the  British  government  in  1885  but  soon  abandoned. 

Beyond  Sallom  Junction  the  line  gradually  ascends  among  the 
picturesque  mountains  that  stretcii  parallel  with  the  Red  Sea  from 
the  Abys.sinian    highlands   to   the   Gulf  of   Suez.     66*/2  M.  Oebeit. 

9.7  • 


426   Route  34.  KHARTl&M.  Practical  Notes. 

75  M.  Sinkat  (2933  ft.),  a  hill-station  for  the  officers  and  officials  of 
the  Sudan  Government,  has  two  rest-houses  (H.  5  pias.).  —  The  line 
reaches  the  crest  of  the  ridge  at  (81  M.)  Summit  (3015  ft. ;  Rest 
House),  the  station  for  Erkowit  (ca.  3600  ft.),  a  summer-resort  with 
a  golf-course,  among  the  mountains,  about  5  hrs.'  camel-ride  to  the  E. 
During  the  hot  weather  Erkowit  is  the  headquarters  of  the  admin- 
istration of  the  Red  Sea  province,  and  in  spring  that  of  the  governor- 
general.  For  accommodation  and  camels  application  must  he  made 
not  less  than  three  days  in  advance  to  the  ma'mur  of  Erkowit,  who 
will  also,  if  desired,  provide  tongas,  or  litters,  at  50  pias.  each  person. 
—  The  line  now  rapidly  descends  across  the  wide  steppe  that  stretches 
W.  towards  the  Nile.  —  118  M.  Thamiam.  —  181  M.  Musmar.  —  At 
(297  M.)  Atbara  Junction  we  join  the  main  line  from  Wadi  Haifa  to 
Khartum,  see  p.  421. 

34.  Khartum  and  Omdurman. 

Arrival.  The  Central  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  i)  is  on  the  S.  side  of 
Khartum;  it  is  the  starting-point  for  the  line  to  Kosti  and  El-Obeid  (p.43'2) 
also.  —  KharlAm  North  Station  (PI.  K,  3;  p.  423)  i3  of  no  importance  to  touri.^ts. 

Hotels  (in  Khartum).  "Grand-Hotel  Khartum  (PI.  a;  D,  3),  on  the 
Blue  Nile,  with  garden  and  fine  view,  pens,  from  iE  E  1 ;  Kindel's  Gordon 
Hotel  (Pl-b;  D,  4),  pens.  70-80  pias.,  good;  Hoial  Hotel  (PI.  c;  E,  4), 
with  pretty  garden,  pens.  40-50  pias.;  New  Khedivial  Hotel  (PI.  d; 
D,  4),  with  the  Restaurant  d'Athenes,  R.  ca.  20  pias.;  Hotel  Victoria 
(PI.  e;  D,  4),  R.  10  pias.,  quite  unpretending. 

Post  and  Telegraph  Offices.  On  the  Embankment  at  Khartiim  (PI.  5, 
D  3;  p.  42S);   near   the    Large  Market  at  Omdurman  (PI.  20,  Bl;  p.  431). 

Steam  Tramways.  A  combination  of  steam- tramways  and  ferries, 
forming  a  circular  route,  connects  KharUlm  with  Omdurman  and  Khartum 
North.  Cars  start  hourly  in  both  directions  from  the  Sirdar  Avenue  in 
Khartum  (PI.  B,  4;  Khartiim  Central  Tramway  Station;  1st  class  fare  for  the 
whole  circuit  II/2  pias.)'.  In  a  W.  direction  they  run  past  the  Gordon 
Hotel  and  behind  the  Grand-Hotel  (stopping-place)  to  (1/2  hr.)  the  Mogre.n 
Point  (PI.  B,3;  fares,  1st  cl.  1,  2nd  cl.  1/2  pia.s.),  where  they  connect  with 
the  steam-ferry  to  South  Omdurman  (Abu  Anga,  PI.  B,  2;  p.  430).  Thence 
a  tramway  goes  on  to  Omdtirmdn  Central  (Large  Market,  PI.  A,  B,  1)  and  to 
Abu  RSf  (PI.  C,  1),  at  the  N.  end  of  Omdurman,  to  connect  with  the  ferry 
to  Khor  Sfiambat,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Nile.  From  Khor  Shambat  a 
tramway  runs  past  the  Gordon  College  Farm  to  Khartum  North  and  across 
the  Blue  Nile  Bridge  (p.  423)  to  Khartum.  —  A  Mule  Tramway,  connect- 
ing with  the  last-named  steam-tramway  at  the  foot  of  the  incline  from  the 
bridge,  runs  to  the  village  of  Burri  (PI.  G,  3;  p.  428),  on  the  E. 

Donkeys  and  Kickshaws  (drawn  by  donkeys)  may  be  obtained  at  the 
Grand-Hotel  (fixed  tariff);  the  donkeys  hired  on  the  streets  are  cheaper 
and  also  good  (ca.  2  pias.  per  ride,  4  pias.  per  hr.).  The  charge  for  a 
camel  is  12  pias.  per  hr. ;  for  a  sailing-boat  15  pias. 

Banks.  Branch -offices  of  the  National  Bank  0/  Egypt  (PL  12;  D,  4) 
and  the  Banque  d  AtMnes,  Sirdar  Ave.  (PL  D,  4).  —  Tourist  Agent.  Cook's 
Agent,  at  the  Grand-Hotel  (daring  the  season  only).  —  Travelling  Requi- 
sites from  H.  U.  Cavadias.  —  Forwarding  Agent.  Alb.  Singer.  —  Newspapers. 
Sudan  Times  (Mon.  &  Thurs.) ;  Sudan  Herald  (Sat.).  The  official  Sudan  Gazette 
(2  pias.)  containing  the  government  notices  and  ordinances  as  to  shooting, 
travelling,  and  the  export  of  curiosities  (weapons,  ostrich-feathers)  may 
be  obtained  from  the  Civil  Secretary,  Khartum. 

Golf  Courses  both  at  Khartum  (see  PL  1),'4)  and  at  Ouidarman(Pl.  A.  1). 


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Situation.  KHARTUM.  34.  liouU.    427 

Anglican  Church.  All  Saints"  Cathedral  (PI.  8,  E  3;  p.  429);  Right  Rev. 
LI.  Otcynne,  Bishop  of  Khartum;  chaplains,  Rev.  H.  B.  Riving/on  and  Rev. 
H.  C.  Robins.  —  Missions.  Church  Missionary  Society;  American  Mission ;  Austrian 
Roman  Catholic  Mission  to  Central  Africa  (with  church ;  PI.  9,  E  3). 

A  Military  Band  plays  twice  a  week  on  the  Embankment  about  5  p.m. 

DiSTEiBUTios  OF  TiME.  A  stav  of  three  or  four  days  allows  sufficient 
time  for  the  principal  sights  and  for  excursions  to  the  battlefield  of 
Kerreri  and  the  ruins  of  Soba.  —  First  Day.  Visit  to  the  sights  of  Khar- 
tum and  a  ride  to  the  native  villages  (p.  429).  —  Second  Day.  Oiudurman 
(p.  430).  —  Third  Day.  Excursion  to  the  battlefield  of  Kerreri  (p.  431) 
and  second  visit  to  Omdurman.  —  Fourth  Day_.  Trips  by  boat  on  the 
White  and  Blue  Nile  or  excursion  to  Soba  (p.  432).  —  Those  who  make  a 
longer  stay  should  undertake  the  6  days'  trip  up  the  White  Nile  (pp.  433, 434), 
or  the  very  attractive  excursion  to  Naga  (p.  422)  and  Musauwarat  (p.  423), 
which  requires  about  f(mr  days,  or  the  visit  to  the  ruins  of  Meroe  (p.  422). 

Khartlm  or  Khartoum  (1252  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Sudan  and 
the  residence  of  the  Sirdar  and  Governor-General,  is  situated  in  N. 
lat.  15°  36'  and  E.  long  32"  32',  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Blue  Nile, 
immediately  above  its  confluence  with  the  White  Nile  (comp.  p.  Ixiv). 
The  name,  meaning  'elephant's  trunk',  refers  to  the  shape  of  the 
long  peninsula  that  ends  on  the  N.W.  in  the  Mogren  Point  (p,429). 
The  town  was  built  in  1823-30  by  Mohammed  Ali  and  quickly  rose 
to  prosperity  as  the  southernmost  depot  of  the  trade  of  Egypt,  so  that 
it  is  said  to  have  had  70,000  inhab.  in  1882.  During  the  rebellion 
of  the  Mahdi  (p.cxxiv)  General  Gordon,  who  was  despatched  hither 
by  the  British  government  to  withdraw  the  garrisons  in  the  Sudan, 
entered  the  town  on  Feb.  18th,  1884,  and  defended  it  until  Jan.  26th, 
1885  (comp.  p.  428).  The  town  was  reduced  to  ruins  by  the  Mahdists, 
but  has  been  rebuilt  since  the  capture  of  Omdurman  in  1898. 
Its  ground-plan,  designed  by  Lord  Kitchener  as  a  series  of  'Union 
Jacks',  somewhat  recalls  that  of  Washington,  with  its  broad  streets 
and  large  squares.  In  1909  the  town,  including  Omdurman  and  the 
suburbs,  contained  110.682  inhab.  (Khartiim  18,235;  Omdurman 
42,779;  Khartum  North  35,285;  Geili  14,383);  of  these  106^286 
were  natives  of  the  Sudan,  1734  were  Europeans,  and  2662  were 
Abyssinians,  Egyptians,  Indians,  etc.  Most  of  the  houses  have  but 
one  story  and  are  built  of  brick,  though  in  the  better  ones  free  use 
is  made  also  of  white  Kerreri  sandstone  and  limestone  from  Gebel 
Auli;  they  are  frequently  surrounded  by  fine  gardens. 

The  Tbees  and  Plants  tbat  occur  in  the  private  and  public  gardens 
at  Khartum  nearly  all  belong  to  the  Sudanese  flora,  with  the  conspicuous 
exception  of  the  date-palm.  Among  them  the  following  may  be  specially 
mentioned :  the  curious  Sudanese  Balaeniies  j£gyptiaca  or  soap-tree  (Arab, 
el-heglig),  the  bark  of  which  has  the  property  of  converting  fatty  substances 
into  soap;  the  Salvadora  Persica  (Arab,  el-arak),  by  some  supposed  to  be 
the  mustard-tree  of  the  Bible;  and  the  saccbarin'e  but  poisonous  Callotropis 
proeera  (Arab,  el-ushar),  a  large-leaved  Asclepiadea.  Some  specimens  of  the 
gigantic  Adansonia  digitata,  baobab,  or  monkey-bread-tree  (Arab,  el-homr), 
may  be  observed  in  the  town  ;  the  thick  trunk  of  this  tree  is  often  hollowed 
out  l>y  the  natives  and  used  as  it  stands  as  a  cistern.  There  are  also 
several  Piirkinsonias,  Sesbanias,  and  a  few  coffee-plants.  —  Agricultuee 
is  carried  on  by  the  Nubian  fellahin  in  the  primitive  manner  of  the 
Dongolese,  without  plough  or  harrow,  but  none  the  less  industriously. 
Their  sakiyeh,  or  water-wheels  (p.  Ixxii),  are  sometimes  25  ft.  and  more  in 


428    Route  3d.  KHARTUM.  Gordon  CoUege. 

• 
height,  and  are  worked  by  zebus.  Wooden  posts  are  occasionally  placed 
Ijeside  these  wheels  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  a  kind  of  sun-dial,  by  which 
the  hours  of  labour  are  regulated.  The  chief  crop  is  Andropogon,  f^orghum, 
the  staple  food  of  the  country,  but  sweet  potatoes  (/pomoea  Batatas;  Arab, 
bombai).  Maize  (recently  introduced),  and  the  Sudanese  sugar-cane  {Andro- 
pogon Zaccharatum;  Arab,  el-'ankulib)  are  cultivated  also.  The  last-named 
ripens  between  February  and  May. 

Along  the  bank  of  the  Nile  runs  the  Embankment,  a  promenade 
ahout  3  M.  in  length,  planted  with  lebbakh  and  other  trees.  The  view 
hence  is  very  fine;  on  the  opposite  bank,  beyond  the  sand-banks 
in  the  Nile,  which  are  covered  when  the  river  is  high  (in  October), 
lies  the  desert-town  of  Omdurman,  with  misty  hills  in  the  back- 
ground; to  the  N.  rise  the  hills  of  Kerreri  and  Surkab  (p.  431); 
also  to  the  N.  is  the  island  of  Tuft,  with  its  vegetable-gardens.  On 
this  island  are  a  number  of  conical  grass-huts  inhabited  by  natives, 
and  an  old  fort  which  offered  a  desperate  resistance  to  the  der- 
vishes in  1886. 

Following  tlie  Embankment  to  the  E.  from  the  Orand-Hotel  we 
pass  the  Coptic  Church  (PI.  2),  with  its  two  towers,  and  a  number  of 
attractive  villas,  including  those  of  the  Miidir,  the  Financial  Secre- 
tary, and  the  Commandant  (PI.  4;  D,  3).  We  next  reach  the  Post 
,S'  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  5;  D,  3)  and  the  War  Office  (PI,  6;  D,  3), 
considerably  enlarged  in  1913,  with  most  of  the  offices  of  the  civil 
administration.  Adjoining  the  latter  rises  the  Gothic  Palace  of  the 
Sirdar  and  Oovernor-Oeneral  (PI.  D,  3);  before  it  stand  a  Britisli 
sentinel  (on  the  river  side)  and  two  Sudanese  sentinels  (on  the  jS. 
side).  A  special  permit  is  needed  for  a  visit  to  the  house  or  grounds. 
The  palace  incorporates  the  lower  story  of  Gordon's  house,  in  which 
he  fell  under  the  lances  of  the  dervishes  (memorial  tablet  in  the 
corridor).  —  Farther  on  are  military  stores  and  the  workshops  of 
the  Public  Works  Department.  The  gardens  and  villas  of  the  British 
officials,  including  that  of  Slatin-Pasha  (PI.  10;  E,  3),  add  a  pictur- 
esque feature  to  the  scene,  many  of  the  houses  being  built  in  the 
bungalow  style.  At  the  corner  of  Mohammed  Ali  Street  is  the 
attractive  building  of  the  Sudan  Club  (PI.  E,  3) ,  situated  in  a 
garden.    Farther  on  is  the  Military  Hospital. 

We  then  reach  the  Gordon  Memorial  College  (PI.  E,  F,  3; 
director,  Mr.  James  Currie),  for  which  Lord  Kitchener  obtained  the 
necessary  funds  by  public  subscription  throughout  the  British  Empire. 
This  is  a  large  and  substantial  building  in  which  native  youths  are 
trained  by  English  and  Egyptian  teachers  for  an  official  career.  The 
College  contains  a  Higher  Elementary  School,  a  Higher  School  for 
Technical  Education  (surveying  and  engineering),  a  Training  Col- 
lege for  Schoolmasters  and  Cadis,  and  a  Military  Cadet  School. 
Associated  with  it  are  Instructional  Workshops,  an  Economic  Museum 
(with  interesting  archaeological,  ethnographical,  and  natural  history 
collections),  and  a  Bacteriological  <J'  Chemical  Laboratory  (adm.  9-1), 
the  last  due  to  the  liberality  of  Mr.  Henry  S.  Wellcome  of  London. 


'Abbas  Square.  KHARTUM.  34.  Route.   429 

Beyond  the  railway  are  the  British  barracks  and  the  village  of 
Burri  (PI.  G,  3),  with  the  water-works. 

We  return  from  the  Gordon  Memorial  College  by  Khedive  Avenue, 
which  runs  parallel  with  the  Embankment.  Here  are  the  Maronile 
Church  (PI.  13;  E,  3)  and  the  new  Cathedral  Church  of  All  Saints 
(PI.  8;  E,  3),  consecrated  in  1912,  the  N.  transept  of  which  is  the 
Gordon  Memorial  Chapel.  In  the  grounds  behind  the  Sirdar's 
Palace  is  a  Statue  of  Gordon  (represented  as  riding  on  a  camel), 
a  bronze  copy  of  that  executed  by  E.  Onslow  Ford  in  1890  for  the 
Royal  Engineers'  Institute  at  Chatham.  —  The  grounds  behind 
the  War  Office  (p.  428)  contain  a  large  Late  -  Ethiopian  Relief, 
brought  from  a  pyramid  at  Meroe  (p.  422).  It  represents  a  king 
and  queen  protected  by  the  wings  of  Isis;  to  the  right  is  a  crowd 
of  death-gods,  relatives,  and  priests,  bearing  gifts  or  celebrating 
funeral  rites.  —  Farther  on  are  the  National  Bank  of  Egypt  (PI.  12, 
D4;  left),  the  Survey  Department  (right),  the  office  of  the  Stores 
Section  (left)  and  the  law-courts,  the  Irrigation  Department,  and 
the  Mudlrtyeh  (PI.  3;  D,  3),  or  office  of  the  mudir,  all  three  ou 
the  right. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Grand-Hotel,  on  the  Embankment,  lies  the 
pretty  Zoological  Garden  (PI.  1,  C  3;  open  free),  which  contains 
a  representative  collection  of  Sudanese  animals.  A  very  attractive 
walk  is  afforded  by  the  Promenade  extending  to  the  Mogren  or 
Mugran  Point  (comp.  p.  427),  the  promontory  between  the  two 
arms  of  the  Nile,  the  different-coloured  waters  of  which  are  easily 
recognizable  after  their  junction.  Along  the  bank  are  numerous 
sakiyehs  (comp.  p.  427),  for  watering  the  fields  and  palm-groves. 
To  the  left  are  a  Nubian  village,  picturesquely  situated  among 
palms,  and  various  other  settlements. 

The  business-part  of  Khartum,  which  is  chiefly  inhabited  by 
Greeks,  is  restricted  to  the  portion  of  the  town  lying  to  the  S.  of 
Khedive  Avenue,  and  is  intersected  by  the  tramway.  Its  central 
point  is  the  large  'Abbas  Square  (PI.  D,  4),  with  a  handsome  Mosque; 
to  the  N.  W.  are  the  interesting  Markets.  The  Bazaars  are  especially 
animated  in  the  afternoon. 

From  the  Gordon  Statue  (see  above)  Victoria  Avenue  runs  to  the 
S.,  crossing  the  'Abbas  Square,  and  brings  us  to  the  Central  Rail- 
way Station  (PI.  D,  4),  which  may  be  reached  also  by  the  streets 
parallel  with  Victoria  Avenue.  Beyond  the  station  are  the  Parade 
Ground  and  Racecourse  and  the  Fortifications  constructed  by  Gordon. 
To  the  right  and  left  are  barracks.  To  the  S.E.  lie  the  Sudanese 
Villages  (PI.  E,  4),  known  to  the  natives  as  Ed-Deim  or  'the  Camp'. 
They  shelter  various  tribes  of  the  Sudan  (Shilluks,  Dinkas,  Bor- 
nawis,  Gebelawis,  etc.),  partly  in  mud  hovels,  partly  in  the  charac- 
teristic round  huts.    Native  dances  may  often  be  witnessed  here. 

Communication  between  Khartum  and  Omdurman  is  maintained 
by  a  steam-ferry  (p.  426)  from  the  Mogren  Point  (see  above). 


430    lioule  34.  OMDURMAN.  Arsenal. 

The  native  town  of  Omdurm&n,  which  was  the  capital  under  the 
new  Mahdi  regime,  was  founded  in  1883-84  by  the  Mahdi  Moham- 
med Ahmed  (p.  427),  and  after  his  death  in  1886  it  was  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Khalifa  'Abdallah  et-Ta'aishi  for  14  years,  during  which 
it  became  the  scene  of  the  most  atrocious  cruelties  and  the  most 
extravagant  orgies.  It  extends  for  about  3V2  M.  along  the  left  bank 
of  the  united  Nile,  and  has  room  for  upwards  of  100,000  inhabi- 
tants. The  name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  an  old  woman  who 
once  spent  a  solitary  existence  here.  The  S.  part  is  the  Umm 
ed-Durmdn  proper.  The  central  part,  including  the  holy  buildings 
and  the  walled  inner  town  inhabited  by  the  Baggara  (Bakkara) 
tribe,  to  whom  'Abdallah  belonged,  is  called  by  the  natives  Et-Bu- 
k'a,  i.e.  'the  (holy)  place',  a  name  always  given  to  the  wandering 
headquarters  of  the  Mahdists.  To  the  N.  is  the  Hdret  en-Nasdra 
or  el-Mesihin,  the  Christian  quarter,  inhabited  by  Abyssinians, 
Copts,  and  Greeks. 

The  warlike  oppression  before  1899,  the  fanatical  enthusiasm 
for  pilgrimages,  th^  desire  for  plunder,  and  the  devastation  of  whole 
provinces  have  assembled  here  a  confused  medley  of  the  most  diverse 
races  and  stocks :  Bantus  and  grotesque  dwarf  negroes  from  the  W. 
Sudan ;  Semitic  and  Hamitic  tribes  from  the  desert,  such  as  Nuba, 
Baggara,  Kabbabish,  Gowameh,  and  Kowahleh  Arabs ;  Nubians,  Fel- 
lahin,  Ja'alin  (p.  423).  To  these  must  now  be  added  Egyptians, 
Syrians,  and  a  few  Greeks.  The  shopkeepers  are  mostly  Dongolese. 
The  fnshions  prevalent  among  the  natives  are  very  curious,  such  as 
their  methods  of  shaving,  tattooing,  and  perfuming  themselves,  and 
otherwise  altering  their  personal  appearance. 

The  steam-ferry  lands  its  passengers  a.t  Abu  Anga,  near  the  large 
and  picturesque  Murada,  or  Boat  Harbour,  which  is  adjoined  by 
the  markets  for  ivory,  india-rubber,  and  grain.  From  this  point  we 
may  proceed  into  the  town  either  by  the  steam-tramway  (p.  426)  or 
(preferably)  by  donkey.  —  Following  the  tramway-line,  we  cross  one 
of  the  markets  (Suk)  and  reach  the  lofty  walls  surrounding  the  Beit 
el-Amdna  (PI.  19;  B,  2),  the  former  arsenal  of  the  dervishes,  which 
still  serves  as  a  military  magazine  and  contains  memorials  of  Gordon's 
time  and  trophies  of  weapons.  For  a  visit  to  it,  which,  however, 
is  hardly  worth  while,  a  permit  must  be  obtained  from  the  As- 
sistant Secretary,  Stores  Section  in  Khartiim  (p.  429).  The  Prison 
(PI.  B,  2),  where  many  Europeans  languished,  is  situated  500  yds. 
farther  E.,  at  the  S.  angle  of  the  ruinous  town-wall.  It  is  sometimes 
known  as  the  'Saier  Prison',  from  the  name  of  the  jailor  under  the 
Mahdi  and  Khalifa.  —  Farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  Komanddniyeh 
or  Guard  House  of  the  Sudanese,  formerly  the  House  of  Emtr  Yak^b 
(PI.  21).  On  the  large  Mosque  Square  (PI.  B,  2),  in  which  the  der- 
vish army  was  reviewed,  lie  (1.)  the  Zabtiyeh  or  office  of  the  ma'mur 
(PI.  22)  and  (r.)  the  Mosque  of  the  Khalifa,  a  large  rectangular  court 
surrounded  by  a  brick  wall  (comp.  p.  clxxviii). 


Mahdis  Tomb.  OMDURMAN.  34.  RouU.    481 

Adjoining  tlie  Mosque  Square  on  the  E.  lies  the  *Tomh  of  the 
Mahdi  (PI.  15).  This  was  erected,  at  the  order  of  the  Khalifa,  by 
an  Arab  architect,  and  consisted  of  a  rectangular  building  85  ft. 
liigh,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  dome,  and  furnished  with  three  arched 
windows  on  each  side.  After  the  capture  of  Omdurman  the  tomb 
was  destroyed  by  the  British  and  its  contents  scattered.  —  Opposite 
tlie  tomb,  adjoining  the  great  Mosque,  is  the  *House  of  the  Khalifa 
'Abdalldh  (PI.  16;  see  p.  430),  a  large  enclosure,  im-luding  several 
courts  and  colonnades,  numerous  chambers,  and  a  bath-house  (adm. 
5  pias.,  including  the  Mahdi's  Tomb).  The  roof  of  the  tower  com- 
mands a  flue  view  of  Omdurman  and  its  environs.  Adjacent  are 
the  House  of  the  British  Inspector  (PI.  17),  and  the  grave  of  the 
Hon.  H.  G.  li.  Howard,  an  English  war-correspondent  who  fell  here. 
Farther  to  the  E.  stands  the  Military  Hospital  (PI.  18),  formerly  the 
House  of  Sheikh  ed-Din.  the  son  of  the  Khalifa.  To  the  N.,  on  the 
site  of  the  walled  inner  town  of  El-Buk'a  (p.  430),  with  the  quarters 
of  the  Khalifa's  bodyguard,  stands  the  Civil  Hospital  (PI.  B,  1). 

We  now  skirt  the  N.  wall  of  the  Great  Mosque,  passing  the 
ruined  House  of  the  Klialifa  Ali  Woled  Helu,  to  the  Mosque  Square 
and  then  follow  the  broad  street  traversed  by  the  tramway.  To  the 
right  is  the  Government  School  (PI.  B.  1,  2) ;  to  the  left,  in  an  open 
space,  is  the  Cattle  Market  (PI.  26).  The  street  ends  at  the  *Large 
Market  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  on  which  the  various  bazaars  converge  and 
which  presents  a  busy  and  variegated  scene  of  African  life.  All  the 
articles  of  consumption  of  Central  Africa  are  to  be  seen  here  in 
profusion :  curious  spices  of  a  hundred  different  varieties,  drugs, 
and  perfumes;  soda,  saltpetre,  salt;  betel,  bead-nuts,  seeds,  and 
wood  of  every  kind;  ostrich-feathers,  glass  beads,  toilet-butter,  'an- 
garibs  (bedsteads),  the  dried  flesh  of  wild  animals,  etc.  The  Bazaar 
of  the  Silversmiths  (PI.  24)  is  especially  interesting.  Skilful  smiths, 
and  saddlers  dealing  with  hippopotamus  hide,  may  be  seen  at  work. 
Many  articles  here,  however,  are  manufactured  specially  for  tourists. 
The  place  of  execution  (PI.  23)  under  the  Khalifa  was  in  the  Date 
Market.  The  Suk  el-Harm  (formerly  limited  to  women-dealers)  is 
devoted  to  fruit,  milk,  ornaments,  ointments,  and  basket-work.  — 
To  the  E.  is  the  Po^t  ^  Telegraph  Office  (PI.  20). 

Excursions.  To  the  X.  to  (6  M.)  i^e.  Battlefield  of  Eerreri,  "ii  the  left 
bank  of  the  Nile.  This  excursion  is  made  on  donkeys  from  Omdurman: 
large  p:ii'ties  may  hire  a  steamer.  We  first  proceed  to  the  KhSr  Shambal, 
and  thence  to  the  Gebel  SOrkab  (commonly  called  Gebel  Surgham),  which 
affords  the  best  general  view  of  the  battlefield.  On  the  way  we  puss  a 
large  marble  Obelisk.,  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  officers  and  men  of 
the  21st  Lancers  who  fell  in  the  engagement.  The  monument,  which  has 
been  damaged  by  fanatic  natives,  is  surrounded  by  a  mud-wall;  the  keeper 
(absent  on  Sun.)  expects  a  gratuity.  —  Near  the  village  of  Kerreri  and 
the  Gebel  SOrkab,  on  the  left  hank  of  the  Nile,  Sir  Herbert  Kitchener,  with 
22,000  men,  defeated,  on  Sept.  2nd,  1898,  a  dervish  army  of  35,000  men, 
whose  fanatical  onslaughts  were  shattered  by  the  steady  fire  of  the  Anglo- 
Egyptian  troops.  The  dervishes  are  estimated  to  have  lost  10,000  killed, 
16,000  wonnded,  and  4000  prisoners,  while  of  the  British  25  were  killed 
and  99  wounded,  of  the  Egyptians  21  killed  and  230  wounded.     On   the 


432    Route  34.  SOUTHERN   SUDAN. 

afternoon  of  the  same  day  Kitchener  entered  Omdurman.  'Abdallah  (p.  430) 
fled  to  the  S.,  but  on  Nov.  24th,  1899,  the  remnants  of  his  army  were 
annihilated  at  Umm  Debreikat  orDeberikat,  to  the  S.W.  of  Kosti  (p.  433), 
and  he  himself  was  slain. 

The  Ruins  of  Sdba,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Blue  Nile,  to  the  S.E. 
of  Khartum,  are  most  easily  reached  from  (9  M.)  the  station  of  Soba 
(left  bank  of  the  river),  on  the  railway  from  Khartum  to  Sennar  (see 
below),  by  sailing  boat  or  steamer  in  about  2  hrs.  Near  the  landing-place 
is  a  government  Eest  House.  S6ba  was  the  capital  of  the  Christian  king- 
dom of  Aloa,  which  existed  until  the  middle  ages.  The  extensive  field 
of  the  ruins  is  covered  with  fragments  of  baked  bricks.  The  large  tu- 
muli rising  here  and  there  probably  mark  the  sites  of  churches  and  public 
buildings.  One  church,  with  granite  columns,  has  been  partly  brought  to 
light.    On  the  whole,  however,  there  is  little  to  see. 


Longer  Excursions  to  the  Southern  S&d&n. 

Longer  excursions  to  the  Southern  Sudan  are  mostly  undertaken  by 
sportsmen.  The  inliospitable  steppes  of  Kordofan  swarm  with  game.  The 
expense  of  such  excursions  is  necessarily  great,  and  the  equipment  must 
be  very  carefully  selected.  The  Railway  it  Steamboat  Routes.^  however, 
mentioned  below,  afford  an  excellent  opportunity  for  those  who  wish  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  characteristic  and  wonderful  scenery  of  the 
Tropics.  —  For  Caravan  Journeys  the  best  plan  is  to  hire  camels,  with 
the  help  of  competent  advice,  in  Khartum.  The  rest  of  the  equipment, 
such  as  beds,  cooking-utensils,  and  provisions,  should  be  brought  from 
Kurope  or  from  Cairo  (comp.  p.  417). 

From  Khartum  Yii  Wad  Meuani  and  Sbnnab.  to  Kosti,  on  the 
White  Nile,  '236  M.  Railway  to  Wad  Medani  daily  in  7  hrs.,  thence 
to  Kosti  on  Wed.  and  Sat.  in  8  hrs.  more  (fai  is  to  Kosti,  £  E  2,  42, 
£  E  1,  691/2  pias.).  —  The  line  skirts  the  left  (W.)  bank  of  the  Blue 
Nile.  9  M.  Soba  (see  above);  54  M.  Maleig  Road  is  the  station  for 
Kdmltn,  the  chief  town  of  a  district,  with  indigo  plantations.  — 
10072  ^'  Tayiba,  with  the  large  pumping-station  of  the  govern- 
ment cotton-growing  experimental  area.  —  107  M.  Wad  Medani, 
■with  16,000  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  province  of  the  Blue  Nile, 
lies  near  the  confluence  of  the  Rahad  and  the  Blue  Nile ;  it  has  broad 
streets  liued  by  the  round  straw-covered  huts  of  the  natives  (of  the 
Fung  and  Hamag  tribes).  On  the  river-bank  stands  the  palace  of 
the  Mudir  with  its  beautiful  tropical  gardens. 

During  the  winter  season  (Nov.  to  June)  the  Blue  Nile  is  closed  to 
navigation  but  in  summer  (end  of  June  to  Out.)  a  steamer  plies  fortnightly 
from  Wad  Medani  via  Senndr  (see  below),  Singa,  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  Sennar,  and  Barankwa  {Abu  Na'dma)  to  Roseires  (1540  ft.),  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Blue  Nile.     Higher  up  navigation  is  stopped  by  cataracts. 

166  M.  SennS.r,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Blue  Nile.  A  very  fine 
ride  may  be  taken  through  the  forest,  in  which  are  large  numbers 
of  monkeys,  to  the  ruins  of  Old  Senndr,  some  miles  downstream. 
This  town,  which  had  ca.  20,000  inhab.,  was  completely  destroyed 
by  the  Khalifa  in  1885. 

During  the  summer  season  there  is  a  weekly  steamer  service  from 
Sennar  to  Barankwa  (see  above). 

Beyond  Sennar  the  railway  turns  towards  the  W.  and  traverses 
the  so-called  Oezlreh  ('island'),  the  region  between  the  Blue  and 


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tlie  White  Nile,  whicli  promises  to  be  oue  of  the  finest  cottou- 
growiug  districts.  —  230  M.  Hillet  'Abbas.  The  railway  now  crosses 
the  "White  Nile  by  a  remarkable  iron  bridge  of  seven  spans  (1910), 
with  a  central  swing-span,  82  yds.  wide,  for  the  passage  of  boats. 
236  M.  Kosti  (steamboat  station,  see  p.  4341,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  White  Nile,  near  the  S.  end  of  the  island  of  Abba  (p.  434),  was 
originally  named  after  a  Greek  settler.  It  is  a  rising  place,  being 
one  of  the  chief  markets  for  the  produce  of  the  province  of  Kordofan. 
It  lies  on  the  borders  of  the  negro  lands,  and  representatives  of  the 
nearest  tribes  (Habbanias,  Danaglas,  Dinkas,  and  occasionally 
Shilluks)  arc  seen  in  the  market-place. 

Feom  Kosti  to  El-ObeVd,  198  M.,  railway  in  IS^/^hrs.  (tr;iins  on  Suu. 
&  Tburs.):  tbrough-fares  from  Kbartum,  *  E  4,  33V2  *  E  3,  S'/v  pias.). 
—  Zl-ObeSd  or  El-Obeid  (1900  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Kordofan 
(area  131,500  sq.  M.),  has  taken  a  new  lea^e  of  life  as  the  centre  of  the 
gum  trade.  It  is  situated  in  N.  lat.  13°  11'  and  E.  long  30°  14',  and  extend? 
over  a  flat  hollow,  at  the  lowest  parts  of  whii'h  are  numerons  springs  of 
good  water.  The  population,  at  one  time  numberini;  about  35,000.  consists 
of  Arabs  and  Nul)ian  negroes,  and  in  the  dry  season,  when  the  neighbouring: 
villages  have  no  longer  any  water,  it  now  amonnts  to  about  12,000.  With 
the  exception  of  the  mosques  and  a  few  large  buildings  the  houses  arc 
almost  all  round  straw-covered  huts  with  conical  roofs.  To  the  S.  lie  the 
barracks  and  the  government  building.  An  Egyptian  force  under  Hicks 
Pasha,  which  attempted  to  take  El-Olieid  from  the  Mahdi,  was  completely 
annihilated   on  Xov.  5th,  1883  (comp.  p.  cxxiv). 

Fro.m  Khartum  vi.i  Ed-Dueim  to  Kosti  (Goz  Abu  Gum'a), 
199  M.,  postal  steamer  three  times  monthly  (fare  £  E  25  in  a 
single,  &  E  15  in  a  double  cabin).  —  1st  Day.  We  steer  to  the 
NV.  and  in  "■,  far.,  at  the  Mogren  Point  (p.  429),  reach  the  White 
Nile,  which  forms  the  verdant  island  of  Dakin  at  its  confluence  with 
the  Blue  Nile.  The  steamer  enters  the  W^.  arm  of  the  White  Nile. 
The  so-called  'Gordon's  Tree'  or'Mushir  Bey'  forms  a  landmark  which 
is  conspicuous  far  and  near.  W^hen  the  river  is  high  it  is  2-3  M. 
wide  and  resembles  a  great  lake.  Large  herds  of  cattle  may  frequently 
be  seen  grazing  on  the  low  flat  banks.  —  On  the  E.  bank  of  the  river, 
31  M.  from  Khartum,  rises  the  hill  of  GebeL  Auli,  the  limestone  quar- 
ries of  which  yielded  the  material  for  All  Saints'  Cathedral  and  other 
buildings  at  Kbartum.  About  29  M.  farther  on  (E.  bank)  is  the 
Ge'iel  Maniara,  on  which  lies  El-Geteina,  a  large  village  inhabited 
mainly  by  Danagla  Arabs.  —  2nd  Day.  The  banks  are  now  covered 
with  low  but  thick  groves  of  mimosa  and  acacia.  In  the  distance  we 
see  the  Oebel  Ara<hkol,  a  group  of  bare  rocky  hills  about  330  ft.  in 
height.  —  130  M.  El-Dueim  (W.  bank),  the  capital  of  the  province 
of  the  White  Nile,  with  regularly  laid  out  streets,  is  inhabited  by 
Danagla  and  Hassaniyeh  Arabs.  It  has  a  small  mosque,  designed  by 
a  Greek  architect,  and  an  unpretending  Greek  cafe.  Barley,  wheat, 
onions,  and  hibiscus  plants  are  cultivated  here.  Ed-Dueim  was  once 
the  chief  trading-centre  for  gum  arable,  but  has  been  superseded  by 
El-Obpid  (see  above)  since  tlie  construction  of  the  railway.  This  was 
the  point  at  which  the  Egyptian  force  of  Hicks  Pasha  quitted  the  Nile 


434   Route  34.  SOUTHERN   SUDAN. 

(see  p.  433).  —  Ban  Day.  151  M.  Kawa  (E.  bank),  the  chief  town 
of  a  district,  ^vlth  houses  (tukuls)  the  curious  straw  roofs  of  which 
arrest  our  attention.  —  The  steamer  now  reaches  the  N.  end  of  the 
densely  wooded  Island  of  Abba  or  Aba  (2S^/2  M.  long),  the  base  of 
the  Mahdi  in  his  religious  war  of  1883  (p.  cxxiv).  —  181  M.  Faahi 
Shoya,  on  the  W.  bank,  was  the  home  of  the  Mahdi.  —  199  M.  Kosti 
(W.  bank;  see  p.  433),  opposite  the  S.  end  of  Abba  Island;  on  the 
opposite  (E.)  river-bank  lies  the  village  of  Goz  Abu  Gum'a. 

From  Khartum  to  Gonuokoro  and  Rejaf,  on  theBahr  el-Gebel, 
1096  M.  On  the  6th  and  21st  of  each  month  starts  a  government- 
steamer,  which  occupies  15  days  for  the  voyage  upstream  and  11  days 
for  the  return  (return-fares  £  E  38,  50  pias.,  £  E  19,  25  pias. ;  meals 
60  and  45  pias.  per  day).  In  addition  to  these  steamers  a  tourist- 
steamer  leaves  on  Feb.  1st  (return-fare,  inch  meals,  £  E  66,  10  pias., 
servants  £  E  40,  70  pias.;  particulars  from  the  tourist- agents  In 
Cairo,  p.  38).  —  From  Khartum  to  Kosti  (Ooz  Abu  Gum'a),  see  p.  433 
and  above.  About  4  M.  beyond  Kosti  the  steamer  passes  through  the 
large  railway  bridge  mentioned  on  p.  432.  We  now  enter  the  region 
of  the  'Blacks';  at  many  of  the  stations  war-dances  are  performed  for 
the  benefit  of  the  tourists.  The  forests  often  come  right  down  to  the 
river-banks,  and  hippopotami,  crocodiles,  gazelles,  and  innumerable 
water-fowl  may  be  seen.  On  the  E.  bank  is  the  territory  of  the  Dinka 
negroes.  —  About  246  M.  from  Khartum  we  see  on  the  E.  bank  the 
ridge  of  Gebelein  (Jebelein,  'the  two  mountains'),  with  a  govern- 
ment rubber  plantation.  Here  the  serut  fly  is  met  with  for  the  first 
time;  though  not  poisonous,  it  is  very  troublesome.  —  4th  Day. 
305  M.  Eenk  (E.  bank).  —  5th  Day.  At  a  point  364  M.  from 
Khartum  we  pass  the  6 eb el  Ahmed  Agha,  a  cliff  345  ft.  in  height.  — 
408  M.  Kaka  (W.  bank),  to  the  N.  of  which  is  a  government  rubber 
plantation.  Kaka  consists  of  a  group  of  settlements  of  Shilluk  negroes, 
who  live  partly  by  hunting  and  fishing  and  who  build  ingenious  boats. 
The  river  sweeps  round  towards  the  E.,  separating  the  Dinka  negroes 
on  the  E.  bank  from  the  Shilluk  negroes  on  the  W.  bank.  Neither  of 
these  tribes  wear  clothes  but  both  adorn  theni selves  with  all  kinds  of 
ornaments;  they  carry  long  spears.  The  Shilluks  are  much  superior 
to  the  Dinkas.  —  6th  Day.  424  M.  Melut  (E.  bank).  The  river  again 
bends  towards  the  S.  —  469  M.  Kodok  {Fashoda;  1035  ft.),  on  the 
W.  bank,  capital  of  the  province  of  the  Upper  Nile,  was  occupied  by 
the  French  under  General  Marchand  from  July  10th  to  Dec.  11th, 
1898,  but  was  then  ceded  to  the  British.  It  has  an  evil  reputation 
for  malarial  fever;  the  climate  is  sultry  and  damp  and  mosquitoes 
abound.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  capital  of  the  Shilluks  and  the  resi- 
dence of  their  'Mek'  (from  melek,  i.  e.  king),  or  hereditary  headman. 
The  tomb  of  the  first  king  Nyikong  at  Kodok  is  an  object  of  great 
veneration  among  the  natives.  —  7th  Day.  487  M.  Lul,  a  station 
of  the  Austrian  Roman  Catholic  Mission  (p.  427).  The  scenery  be- 
comes very  dreary.    The  W.  bank  is  lined  with  Shilluk  villages, 


SOUTHERN  SUDAN.  34.  Route.   435 

each  surrounded  by  groups  of  duleib  palms  (Borassus  /Ethiopicus). 
—  520  M.  Taufikia  (E.  bank),  the  chief  garrison  of  the  Upper  SudAn. 
Steamer  hence  to  Meshra'  er-Rek  and  Ganibela,  see  p.  436.  About 
5  M.  farther  up,  on  the  E.,  the  Sohal  joins  the  White  Nile,  which 
now  flows  from  W.  to  E.  The  steamer  ascends  the  Sobat  to  (ca.  6  M.) 
Hillet  Duleib  (Duleib  Hill),  a  station  of  the  American  Presbyterian 
Mission  mentioned  on  p.  233,  and  then  returns  to  the  White  Nile. 
To  the  S.,  a  little  way  inland,  lies  Kio,  with  a  government  rubber 
plantation.  —  8th  Day.  554  >I.  Zeraf  Mouth,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Bdhr  ez-Zeruf  (^ Giraffe  River^),  which  flows  into  the  White  Nile  from 
the  S.  About  9  M.  farther  on  is  the  Austrian  Mission  station  of  Tonya. 
Fully  60  M.  to  the  N.  we  may  distinguish  the  Gebel  el-Amira  and 
Gebel  Eliri.  Elephants,  buffaloes,  and  some  rare  species  of  antelope 
are  seen  from  time  to  time.  —  At  (603  M.)  Mouth  of  Gebel  we  reach 
Lake  No,  where  the  Bahr  el-Gebel,  coming  from  the  S.,  and  the  Bahr 
el-GhazCil  or  '■Gazelle  River^  (see  p.  436)  unite  to  form  the  White 
Nile.  —  9th  Day.  The  steamer  turns  to  the  S.  up  the  Bahr  el-Gebel, 
through  the  swampy  waters  of  the  'Sudd'  or  ^Sadd\  This  name, 
which  means  hindrance  or  barrier,  has  been  given  on  account  of  the 
blockading  masses  of  water-plants  which  form  floating  islands  con- 
siderable enough  to  obstruct  the  course  of  the  river  at  frequent  inter- 
vals. Of  recent  years,  however,  the  river  has  been  cleared  of  these 
barriers  of  vegetation  at  several  points,  and  the  strong  current  has 
prevented  fresh  accummulations  from  forming.  A  factory  in  Khar- 
tum now  manufactures  paper  and  rope  out  of  the  sudd,  using  also 
as  fuel  suddite  or  peat-briquettes  made  from  the  sudd,  according  to 
a  process  invented  by  Prof.  Hoering.  On  the  river-bank  are  tablets 
giving  the  distance  from  Lake  No  to  Kemseh  (see  below).  —  10th  Day. 
The  station  of  Zeraf  New  Cut  is  reached.  —  11th  Day.  853  M. 
Sharnbe,  the  chief  town  of  a  district  in  the  province  of  Bahr  el-Ghazal, 
whence  a  caravan-route  leads  to  the  W.  via  Rumbek  to  Wau  (p.  436), 
the  capital  of  the  province.  Large  quantities  of  hippopotami  in- 
habit the  lagoons  here.  —  12th  Day.  906  M.  Ken'iseh.  a  deserted 
station  of  the  Austrian  Mission.  The  region  becomes  more  thickly 
wooded;  diim  and  duleib  palms  abound.  —  13th  Day.  973  M.  Bar 
(1410  ft.),  the  chief  town  of  a  district  in  tlie  province  of  Mongalla, 
with  a  government  rubber  plantation.  The  village  of  tlie  same  name 
lies  9  M.  inland  and  is  the  largest  settlement  of  the  Dinka  negroes. 
To  the  S.  begins  the  territory  of  the  Bari  negroes.  We  next  reach 
the  English  Mission  station  of  Malek.  The  river  divides  into  two 
arms,  then  reunites  to  form  the  E.  frontier  of  the  former  'Lado 
Enclave'  (17,000  sq.  M.),  which  was  leased  to  the  Congo  Free  State 
in  1894-1910  but  now  belongs  to  the  province  of  Mongalla.  The 
scenery  assumes  a  park-like  character. 

'Luxuriant  tropical  vegetation  abounds.  Giant  Euphorbia  are  u  ui;irked 
feature  of  tlie  forest.  The  whole  of  the  banks  and  most  of  the  trees  are 
covered  with  a  velvety-lookin;;  mass  of  creepers.  A  blulT,  10-13  ft.  high, 
projects    into  the  stream The  face   of  this    clitl   is   perforated    by 


436    Route  34.  SOUTHERN  SUDAN. 

myriads  of  holes  made  by  a  very  beautil'ul  and  tiny  species  of  bee-eater. 
These  birds  have  rose-coloured  wings,  vyiih  broQ/e-coloured  bodies.  They 
add  much  to  the  beauty  of  a  lovely  scene'  (Oarslin). 

14th  Day.  1016  M.  Giggings,  the  chief  town  of  a  district.  The 
Gebel  Lad6  comes  in  sight.  1042  M.  Kiro,  prettily  situated  on  tlie 
W.  bank,  in  the  midst  of  trees.  On  an  island  in  the  river  pawpaw- 
trees  and  vegetables  are  grown;  otherwise  there  appears  to  be  no 
cultivation.  1055  M.  Mongalla,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  the  capital  of 
tlie  province  of  Mongalla,  which  is  remarkable  for  the  large  number 
of  elephants  and  giraffes  it  contains.  The  Myambnra  Mts.  on  the  W. 
and  the  mountain  ranges  of  Uganda  on  the  S.  now  become  visible. 
Navigation  is  impeded  here  by  shoals  and  sandbanks.  —  15th  Day. 
1068  M.  Lud6  (1475  ft.),  now  the  chief  town  of  a  district,  was 
founded  by  Gordon  in  18<"4,  and  was  in  1878-85  the  headquarters  of 
Emin  Paslia;  later  it  became  a  Belgian  military  station  (see  p.  435). 

—  1077  M.  Gondokoro  (N.  lat.  4"  54',  E.  long.  31°  46'),  the  northern- 
most station  of  the  British  Uganda  Protectorate,  is  the  seat  of  a  British 
sub-commissioner.  It  is  garrisoned  by  the  Uganda  Rifles.  The  place 
is  strikingly  situated  on  the  lofty  and  thickly  wooded  bank  of  the 
river,  with  the  mountains  of  Lado  and  Rejaf  in  the  background.  — 
1096  M.  Erjaf  is  reached  on  the  15th  day. 

From  Rejaf  we  may  prueeed  upstreym  to  (97  M.)  Mmule ,  whence 
sailing- boats  wnd  a  tmall  steamer  (in  connection  with  the  Khartum 
steamer)  ply  up  the  "Vile  (Bahr  elGebel)  via  Wadeiai,  once  the  residence 
of  Emin  Pasha,  to  (ca.  250  M.)  the  Albert  Nyanza  (2035  ft.);  and  thence 
we  may  go  on  overland  to  the  S.E.  (partly  by  motor-vehicle)  to  (ca.  530  M.) 
the  Victoria  Nyama  (37-^5  ft.).  A  small  steamer  plies  on  this  lake  fort- 
nightly from  EntrOhe  (3650  ft),  the  capital  of  the  Uganda  Protectorate,  to 
(175  M.)  Port  Florence  (Kisvmu),  the  ,'tai ting-point  of  the  Uganda  Railway, 
a  narrow-gauge  line  (re  chin;;  7940  ft.  at  its  highest  pc  int)  running  via, 
(257  M.)  Nairobi  (5560  ft.),  capital  of  British  East  Africa,  to  (584  M.  in 
48  hrs.)  Mombasa,  an  important  harbour  on  the  Indian  Ocean.  Thence 
the  return  to  E^y|it  (Suez  Canal)  or  England  may  be  made  by  the  Union 
Castle  Line  or  the  British  India  Sleam  Navigation  Co. 

From  KhaktBm  to  Meshra'  ee-Rkk,  780  M.;  steamer  ou  the  first  day 
of  each  month  in  11  days  (1st  cl.  fiief  E  15,  60  pias.).  —  To  (520  M.)  Taufikia 
and  (603  M.)  Lake  A'o,  see  pp.  434,  455.  Thence  the  steamer  ascends  the 
Bahr  el-Ghazal  to  (700  M.)  Ghabat  el-'Arab,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ba/ir  el-'Arab., 
which  flows  in  from  the  W.  We  now  take  a  S  direction.  723  M.  Jtir  River 
Mouth,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Jur  and  the  Bahr  el-Ghazal,  which  here 
expands  info  a  lake  called  Lake  Ambadi.  —  780  M.  (3  days  from  Taufikia) 
Heshra'  er-Rek,  the  chief  town  of  a  district  in  the  province  of  Bahr  el- 
Ghazfil,  whence  there  is  a  steamer  service  in  July  and  August  to  Wau  (p.  435). 

Fkom  Khartum  to  Gambela  (on  the  Sobat),  880  M.;  steamer  once  a 
month  from  June  to  Nov.  (when  the  Soliat  is  navijiable),  in  13  days  (1ft  cl. 
fare  £  E  17,8  pias.).  —  To  Taufikia  and  (531  M.)  Hillei  Duleib,  see  pp.  434,  435. 

—  We  continue  to  ascend  the  Sobat.  597  M.  Ab}co"g,  the  chief  town  of  a 
district  in  the  province  of  the  Upper  Nile;  707  M.  Fort  Nasr  (Nasser; 
1525  ft.).  —  On  the  fifth  day  after  leaving  Taufikia  we  reach  the  month  of 
the  Baro,  which  we  ascend,  entering  Abyssinian  territory  about  40  M.  from 
the  point  of  junction.  834  M.  Hang.  8-0  JI.  Gambela  (1700  ft.),  a  trading- 
place  and  the  thief  town  of  the  district  of  that  name,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river.  It  forms  an  enclave  of  the  Sfldan,  to  which  it  is  leased  by 
the  Abyssinian  Government. 


INDEX. 


Besides  the  names  of  the  places  described,  this  Index  contains  also 
a  number  of  names  of  persons  and  other  words  occurring  in  the  Kontes 
and  in  the  Introduction.  —  The  following  is  a  short  list  of  Arabic  words 
of  frequent  occurrence  (comp.  vocabulary,  p.  xxxii):  — 


'Ain,  Spring. 
Bat),  Gate. 

Bahr,  Lake,  river  (Nile). 
Beil,  House. 
Beled,  Village. 
Bildd^  Land.  District. 
Sir,  "Well,  Cistern. 
Birbeh,  Temple-ruin. 
Birke/i,  Pool. 


Darb,  Derb,  Road. 
Deii\  Monastery. 
Gdini',  Mosque. 
Gebel,  Jlountain. 
Gezireh,  Island. 
K(i/r,  Village. 
Kal'd,  Fortress. 
kantara.  Bridge. 
kasr.  Castle. 


Kdin,  Mound  of  rubbish. 
Afedineh,  Town. 
Meiddn,   Middn,    Square, 

Place. 
Merg^  Meadow. 
Rds,  Promontory. 
Shdri',  Street. 

Tell,  Hill. 

Wddi,  Valley. 


'Ababdeh  Beduins  Ivii. 

356.  374. 
.^b'adiyeh  xlvii. 
Abahu>la  410. 
Abaton  371. 
Abba  Island  434. 
^Abba3  I.  cxxii.  33.  34. 

78.  115. 

—  II.  Hilmi  cxxv.  55.  53. 
Abbasides  cxiv.  cxv. 
'Abdallah  et-Ta'aishi 

cxxr.  4.30.  431.  432. 
'Abdellatif  130.  144. 
'Abd  el-kader  27. 

—  el-Kurna  309. 

—  er-Rahman  29. 

—  el-Wahhab  xci. 
Abercrijmby,Sir  Ralph  30. 
Abghigh  (Abguig)  193. 
el-'Abidiyeh(Abidia)421. 
'Abkeh  413. 
Ablutions,  Religious 

Ixxxvii.  clxxxi. 
Abnub  232. 
Abotu  237. 
Al.uu  Chducba  222. 
Abousambul  404. 
Abu  el-Akhdar  181. 

—  Bekr'cxiii. 

—  Dis  421. 

—  Dom  420. 

—  (iandir  193 

— 'Greia  (near  Berenike) 

377. 
(near  Redesiveb) 

376. 

—  Gurib  140. 


Abu  Gussi  420. 

—  Had  377. 

—  Hamed  (Faiyum)  ly3 

—  Hamed  (Sudan)  419. 
Hammad  181.  171. 

—  Handal  399. 
Hanifa  l.xxxv. 
Hommos  31. 

—  Hor  393; 

—  Kebir  172 

—  Kerkas  203. 

—  Khrug  cxxiv. 
Abukir  30. 

.Vbu  Klea  cxxiv. 
Abuksa  192. 

Abulfida  cxviii.  221.  223. 
Abu  Na'ama  432. 
Abu'n-Nomros  143. 
Abu  Oda  410. 

—  <^ir  30. 

—  Qurgas  209. 

—  Roash  139. 

—  Shar  el-Kibli  373. 

—  .Shekuk  172. 

—  Shusheh  222. 

—  .Simbel  404. 
Abusir  (near  Behig)  29. 

—  (near  Gi/.eh)  141.  142, 

—  (2nd  Cataract)  413. 

—  el-Melek  206. 
Abu  SueirlSO. 

—  Tarfa  393. 

—  tig  219.  235. 

—  Tisht  222. 

—  Za'bal  120. 

—  Ziidiyeh  xxvi. 
Abwong  436. 


Baedeker's  Egypt.     7th  Edit. 


Abydos  237. 
Achemant  206. 
.\cboris  cvii.  264. 
Acoris,208. 
■■Ada  Ixxxvi. 
Adendan  410. 
el-'jidid  cxvi. 
el-'Adil,  Malik  cxvi. 

—  11.   cxvii. 
^lian  213.  284. 
Ji^milianus  cxi. 
el-Aldal  cxvi. 
'Afyeh  (Afla)  402. 
Aga  172.  173. 
Aghurmi'379. 
Agricultural  Implements 

Ixxiii. 

—  Seasons  Ixxiii. 
.\griculture  Ixx. 
el-Aliaiweh  236. 
.\hhotep  ci. 

Ahmed   ibn  Tuliin   cxiv. 

■44.  71. 
.\hmediyeh  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Ahmose (Kings),  lee  Ama- 

.sis  and  Amosis. 
— ,    Tomb    of   (El-Kab) 

336. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Tell  el- 

■Amarna)  213. 

—  Pen-Nekhbeyet,Tomb 
of  33B. 

Abna?,  or 

Abnasia  el-Medineh  206. 
Ah-nofru,  Tomb  of  337. 
Ai,  tee  Eye. 

28 


438 


INDEX. 


Aibek  cxvii. 

•■Ain  Musa  118. 

Aiyiibitles  civi. 

'Akaba,  Gulf  of  424. 

Akhmim  220. 

Aklit  349. 

Ak;sheh'i411. 

Aku,  Tomb  of  359. 

Alamein  29. 

Alatiyeh'?xxvi. 

Albert  Nyanza  436.  l.xiv 

Alexander  the  Great 

cvii.    cxxxyi.    12.   261. 

273.  276. 
--  II.  cvii.  227.  262. 
Alexandria  9. 

Anfushi,  Bay  of  19. 

Anglican  Churche.s  11 
16.  26. 

Antoniadis  Garden  20 

Arab  Quarter  19. 

Armenian  Church  16. 

Arrival  9. 

Bab  el-'Arab  26. 

Bacos  26. 

Bank.9  10. 

Baths  9. 

Booksellers  11. 

Bruchinm  13. 

Bulkeley  26. 

Cabs  10. 

Cafes  9. 

Camp  de  C^sar  26. 

Canopic  Gate  13.  20. 

Carlton  26. 

Catacombs  17.  19. 

Champs  Elysees  20. 

Chemists  10. 

Churches  11.  IG.  20. 

Cistern,  Ancient  20. 

Cleopatra  26. 

— ,  Baths  of  26. 

Climate  Ixxvii. 

Clubs  9. 

College  St.  Franooia 
Xavier  16. 

Commissionnaires  10 

Confectioners  9. 

Consulates  10. 

Coptic  Church  20. 

Cotton  Exchange  16. 

Earle's  Monument  16. 

Eunostos  Harboni-  It. 

Exchange  16. 

Farkha  Canal  20. 

Fleming  26. 

Fort  Cafarelli  10. 

—  Kait  Bey  13.  19. 

—  Napoleon  19. 

—  Silsileh  24. 
Gabbari  26. 
Gianaclis  26. 
Glymenoponlns  26. 


Alexandria: 

Government  Building 

19. 
Gymnasium  13. 
Hadra  20. 
Harbours  11.   19. 
Heptastadiuni  13.   19. 
History  12. 
Hospitals  10.  16.  20. 
Hotels  9. 
Ibrahimiyeh  25. 
.Tews'  Quarter  13. 
Kasr   el-Kayasereh  2G. 
Kom  ed-i)ik  iO.  13. 

—  esh-Shukafa  17. 
Laurens  26.' 

Law  Courts  16. 
Library,  Ancient  14. 
Lighthouse  19. 
Mahmudiyeh  Canal  lo. 

i1.  20. 
Marine  Arsenal  19. 
JIazloum  Pacha  26. 
Meks  26. 
Minet  el-Bas.sal  16. 

—  esh-Sharkawiyeb  16. 
Mohammed  All,  Statne 

of  15. 
Moustapha  Pacha  25. 
Municipal  Building  20. 
Museum,  Ancient  13. 

—  of  Grseco-Roman 
Antiquities  21. 

Necropolis  13 
Nicopolis  25.  13. 
>vuzha  Garden  20. 
Omdurman  Column  20. 
Paneum  13. 
Pharos,  Island  of  13  19. 
Photographs  11. 
Physicians  10. 
Place  des  Consuls,  or 

—  Meh^met  Ali  15. 
Pompey's  Pillar  16. 
Pont  Neuf,  or 

—  Ibrahim  16. 
Porte  de  Eosette  20. 
Post  Office  10. 
Prisons  20. 
Quarantine  26. 
Railway  Station  9. 
Kamleh  26. 

Raset-Tin,  Palace  of  19. 
Kegia  13. 
Restaurants  9. 
Rhakotis  12.  13. 
Rond  Point  20. 
Royal  City  13. 

Rue  Ch^rif  Pacha  16. 

—  d'Allemagne  20. 

—  de  France  19. 

—  de  la  Colonne  Pom 
p^e  16. 


Alexandria: 
Rue  de  la  Porte  de  P.o- 
sette  20. 

—  des  Soeurs  16. 

—  du  Mus(?e  21. 

—  dn  Premier  Khedive 
10. 

—  Ibrahim  Premier  16. 

—  Karmous  17. 

—  Ras  et-Tin  19. 
Saba  Pacha  26. 

St.  Catherine's  Ch.  16. 

St.  Mark's  Building  16. 

.San  Stefano  26. 

Schools  20. 

Schutz  26. 

Seffer  26. 

Sema  13. 

Serapeum  14.  16. 

Shatbi  25. 

Shops  11. 

Sidi  Amr,  Mosque  of  16. 

Sidi  Gaber  26. 

Sporting  Club  25. 

Square  Ste.  Catherine 

16. 
Steamboat  Offices  10. 
Streets,  Ancient  18. 
Synagogue  20. 
Telegraph  Offices  10. 
Theatre,  Ancient  13. 
Theatres  11. 
Tombs,  Ancient  17.  19. 

25. 
Topography,   Ancient 

13. 
Tourist  Agents  10. 
Tramways  9. 
Turkish  Quarter  19. 
Victoria  College  26. 

—  Column  20. 
Wardian  26.  27. 
Zizinia  26. 

'Ali  cxiv. 

—  Bey  cxx. 

A,l]aki  (Allagi)  396. 

^Alm'eh  xxvii. 

Aloa  432. 

Alphabet,  Arabic  xxix. 

Amada  399. 

Amara  376. 

el-'Amarna  211. 

Amasis   cvi.  cxxxvi.  32. 

148.  172. 
Ambadi,  Lake  436. 
Ambarkab  383. 
Ameid  29. 
Amelineau  243. 
Amenemheb.ii  Memorial 

Niche  of  401. 
— ,  Tomb  of ,311. 
Amenemhet  L  c.  cxxxiii. 

121.  205. 


INDEX. 


439 


Ainencmlietll.ci.oxxxiii. 
167. 

—  III.  ci.  cxxxiii.  Iti7. 
191.  193.  194. 

—  IV.  ci.  oxxxiii. 
— ,  Tomb  of  312. 
Amenemopet  civ. 

— ,   Tomb   of  (Hiliau  fl- 

Mnluk)  283. 
— ,  Tomb  (if  tDrab  Abiil 

Nc'ga)  283. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Sheikb  'Abil 

el-Kurna)  313. 
Ameiiephthes  ciii.  cxxxv. 

209.  m.  '22tt.  242.  278. 

309.  340. 
- ,  Tomb  (if  287. 
Amonertiiis  c.^cxxvi.  .Tir.. 

27^.  278. 
Ainen-her-kliopshef, 

Tomb  of  ;i2f. 
Amenliotep    (King.s),    see 

Amoiiopliis. 
— ,  the  Sage  cxliii.  304. 
— ,  Tomb  of_3l3. 
Ameni(-em-het),  Tomb  of 

230. 
Amen-meses  ciii. 
— ,  Tomb  of  289. 
Amenmose,  Tomb  of 

{r)rahAbu'l>rfgga)283. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Sheikh  'Abd 

el-Kurna)  313. 
Amerioiihisl.  ci.  cxxxiv. 

218.  309. 

—  I.,  Tomb  of  298. 

—  II.  cii.  cxxxiv.  280. 
309.  3S9.  399. 

—  II.,  Tomb  of  297. 

—  III.  cii.  cx.xxiv.  212. 
257.  260.  261.  272.  280. 
330.  334. 

—  III.,  Touib  of  29S. 

—  IV.  cii.  cxxxiv.  209. 
211.  212.  257. 

—  IV..  Tomb  of  298. 

—  IV.,  Family  Tomb  of 
217. 

Amentet  240. 
Amen-wehsu,  Tomb  of 

315. 
American  Mi.ssion  33.  42. 

232.  233.  Ivi. 

—  Residents  Ixiii. 
Ammianu.s  Marcellinius 

237.  281. 
Ammonium  378. 
Amnis  Trajanus  182. 
Amon  cxlvi.  cxlix.  cliii. 

237.  257.  265.  274.  282. 

300.  304.  3U6.  323.  376. 

398.  404.  410.  422. 
Amosis  ci.  cxxxiv. 


'Amr  ibn  el-'A.i  cxiii.  16, 

41.  109.  144.'  1S3.  3.S7. 
.\rariyeh  27. 
Amunet  274. 
Amyrticos  cvi. 
Anastasius  cxiii. 
'Anatireh  xxvi. 
'Anibeh  (Aneiba)  402. 
Animals.  Sacred  cxli. 
Antfeopolis  236. 
Aateeus  cxlix.  236. 
Antinoupolis  (Antino(') 

209. 
Antiquities  41.  81.  252. 
Antoninus  Pins  cxi. 

cxxxis.  330.  381. 
Antony  ex.  13. 
Anubis    cxlvii.     cxlix. 

cliii.  207.  301. 
Anuket  (Annkis)    <;xlix. 

3{)3. 
A  pet  254. 
Aphroditespolis  (Gi^bu- 

lein)  333. 

—  (Kom  Eshkaf)  219. 
Aphroditopolis  205. 
Apis  cxli.  cxlix.  147. 

—  Tombs  at.Sakk;lra  J47. 
Apophis  cxxxiii. 
Apollonopolis  )Iagna343. 

—  Parva  223. 

Apries   cvi.  cxxxvi.    144. 
el-'Araba,  or 
Araba  el-JIadfuneh  237. 
'Arab  eKAtijat  219. 
.\rabian  Desert  Ixix.  362. 

3(2. 
Arabi  Bey  cxxiii.  181. 
Arabic  Language  xxviii. 
Arab  Town-Dwellers  lix, 
el-'Arayish  Ileduins  Iviii 
Arcadius  cxii.  28. 
.Vrohitecture,  Arabian 

clxxviii. 
— ,  Egyptian  clvi. 
Ardebb  ii. 
Areika  399. 
Argo'  420. 
Arians  cxii. 
Arkin  411. 
.■irmant  332.  341. 
Armenians  Ixii. 
Armenna  403. 
Arsinoe  (town)  192. 

—  I.  (fe  II.  cvii.  cxxxvii 
192. 

—  III.  cviii. 

Art,  Arabian  clxxviii. 
— ,  Egyptian  clvii. 
Artaxerxes  I.-III.   cvi. 
Arlikargu  411. 
el-Asasif  305. 
Asfun  el-Mata'neU  333. 


Ashkit  411. 
Asbment  206. 
Ashmun  33. 
el-Ashniunein  209. 
A.shmiin  er-Kumman  174. 
cl-A.shraf  Hars  Beyicxix. 

53.   113. 
Ashrafi  Keef  424. 
el-Ashraf  Khalil  cxvii. 

76. 
Asklepiodotns  331. 
Asotriba  425. 
Asphyuis  333. 
el-Assirat  221. 
Assiut  232.  219. 

,  Province  of  233.  xlvii. 
Barrage  232. 
Assiian  (Aswan)353.  xxii. 
— ,  Dam  of  371. 
'.\taka  Mountains  181. 
Atbara.  the  Ixiv.  421. 

—  Junction  421. 
\tb6  343. 

Atf  32. 
Atfih  205. 
.\thanasius  cxii. 
Athribis  (near  Benba)34. 

—  (near  Sohag)  220. 
'Afmilr  420. 
Atrepe  220. 

Atrun  Island  358. 
Atum    cxl.   cxliii.  cxlvi. 

c.xHx.  cliii.  121.  278. 
Atwani  Beduins  Iviii. 
Auaris  ci. 
Augustus,   Emperor    ex. 

cxxxviii.  13.  250.  370. 

389.  393. 
Aulad  'Amr  222. 
Aurelian  cxi. 
.Vusim  32. 

Austrian  Residents  Ixiii. 
Autumn  Season  Ixxiii. 
Avidius  Cassius  cxi. 
'Awalim  xxvii. 
Awas  el-Guarani  399. 
el-'Ayat  224.  205. 
el-'Aziz  cxv.  55.  77. 

el-Bab  387. 

Bab  Abu  Hor  393. 

—  el-Hosan  305. 

—  el-Kalabsheh  389. 
Babylon,  Citadel  44. 
Bacchias  197. 
Racos  26. 
el-Badari  235. 
Badrechein  143. 

Badr  el-Gamali  cxvi.  77. 

116. 
Bah  173. 

Babaria  Oasis  379. 
Bahnasa  207. 

■2b* 


440 


INDEX. 


Bahr  el-Abyad  Ixiv. 

—  el-'Arab  43fi. 

—  el-Azrak  Ixiv. 

—  Basandileb  175. 

—  el-Gebel  Ixiv.  435. 

—  e]-Ghaz;a  Ixiv.  435. 

,  Province  of  415. 

Bahrif,  Island  of  362.  352 
>!ahr)yeh.    Oasis   of  371) 

207.  xlvii. 
Babr  Kolzuni  IS'i. 

—  el-Libeiiii  145. 

—  el-JIasbra'  172. 

—  Seik'b  194. 

el-Gedid  191.  194. 

—  Sbibin  34    175. 

—  es-Sughaivar  173. 

—  Tireh  175. 

—  el-Wadi  191.  195. 

—  Yflauf  190.  192.  218 

—  ez-Zeraf  Jxiv.  436. 
BnV,  Tomb  of  291. 
Baibars,  xee  Beybar.-;. 
Bairam,  see  Beiram. 
Baiyumiyeh  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Baker,  Sir  I!.  232.  372. 
Baket,  Tomb  of  228. 
Kakliyeh  173. 
Bakshiib  xxiv. 
Balab  179. 
— ,  Lake  186 
Balasfura  221. 
Balat  382. 
Balbilla  331. 
Baldwin,  King  cxvi. 
Baliana  ^21.  238. 
Ballah  179 

Ballaneb  (Baliana)  410. 
r.allas  260 
Baltim  174. 
Baranka  225. 
Barankwa  432. 
Bardis  221. 
llari  Negroes  436. 
Bans  382. 

Barkuk  cxviii.  45. 76. 112. 
Baro  436. 
el-Baroud  250. 
Barrage  (station)  33.  121. 

—  du  Nil  122. 
Barrages    122.    174.   206. 

232.  342.  371. 
Barsanti  395.  404. 
Bars  Bev  cxlx.  63.   113. 
Bariid  250. 
Basaliyeh  (El-Basalia) 

343. 
Basandileb  176. 
el-Basatin  119. 
Basb-Katib  194. 
Bastet  cxl.  cxlvi.  cxlix. 

171. 


Basyun  33. 

Raths  xxvii.  clxxxvi 

Hatn  el-Hagar  412 

—  narit'196. 
Batra  175. 
cl-Bats  Canal   191. 
Bawit,  218. 
I'awiti  379. 
Jlazaars  41.  50. 
Beba  206. 

I'.ebi,  Tomb  of  337. 
ISedrasUein  143. 
Heduins,  the  Ivii. 
I'.ega  Ivii. 
ljegt;ars  xxiv.  48. 
Begig  193. 
Behbit  175. 

—  el-Hagar  174. 
Beheireh,    Province    of 

xlvii.  31. 
Beheiret  Marynt  27. 
Behig  28.  29." 
Behnesa  207. 
— ,  Oasis  of  379. 
Heiram  xcvi.  xcvii. 
Beit  Khaliaf  221. 

—  el-Wali  391. 
Bckenranf  civ. 

Beket.  Tombs  o f  228.  JSl 
Beki  397. 
Belal  420. 
Belbeis  171. 
Belkas  175. 
Belial  387. 
Beltan  173.  171. 
Belzoni  126.  132.  308. 
Belzoni's  Tomb  292. 
15enben  cxlvi. 
Heuha  34.  173.  181. 
Bciii  'Adi  219. 

—  ''Amran  211. 
r.enihiisan  226. 
Beni'Hodeir  20G. 

—  Hu'sein  Sheriik  226. 

—  Mazar  207.  22b. 
Mohammed  1'32. 

—  Saleh/93. 
Soliman  225. 

Benisueif  206.  225. 

,  Province  of  206.  xlvii. 
Beni  WaselBeduins  Iviii. 
Berber  421. 

,  Province  of  415. 
Berenice,  Queen  cviii 

cxxxvii. 
Berenike  377. 
fieris  (Berys)  382. 
Berma  33. 
Bes  cxliii.  cl.  237. 
Beybars  I.  cxvii.  78. 
Biid  206. 
Biahmu  193.  192. 
Biala  175. 


Biban  el-Harim  319. 

—  el-Mulii"k  284. 
Bibeh  206 

Bibliography  olxxxvii. 
Biela  175. 

Bigeh,  or 

Biggeh:370. 

Bihamu  193. 

Bilad  el-Barabra  .884. 

liilak  .364. 

Bir  'Abbad  376. 

—  'Arabar  373. 
el-Birba  221. 
Birbeb  397. 

Bir  Bena^a  423. 

—  'Eseili  28. 

—  el-Fahm  Hi). 

—  Fuka  29. 

—  Gharadik  378. 

—  Goaiferi"378. 

—  Hammamat  375. 

—  Hooker  3>. 

—  el-Inglis  375. 

—  el-Kash  376. 
liirket  Karun  196. 

—  eI-Mallaha,278. 

—  es-Saba^'33.  174. 
r.ir  el-Mo'il;i,  376. 

—  el-Muelha"362. 

—  Murat  419. 

—  es-Sidd  375. 

Birth  Houses  olxiii.  250. 

348.  352.''367.  408. 
Bir  Umm  Hebal  362. 
Blsharin   Beduins   Ivii. 

356. 
Bitter  Lakes,  the  186. 
Biyala  175.  174. 
Blemmyes    365.  364  386. 

Ivii. 
Blue  Kile,  the  Ixiv.  427. 

Province  415. 

Blunted   Pyramid  167. 
Bochchoris  civ.  cxxxv. 
Boghaz  177. 
Bolbitinie  Arm  of  the 

Nile  30.  Ixvii. 
Bunaparte  cxx.  30.  46.  79. 

183.  367. 
Bor  435. 
Borchardt,     L.    42.    12C. 

140    141. 
Borollos,  Lake  177. 
Bi.seili  'M. 
el-Bosra  235. 
Bouche  206. 
Brick  Pyramids  clxx. 
Brindisi  3.  6. 
British  Residents  Ixiii. 
Browne,  W.  G.  126.  378. 
Bruce,  J.  126. 
Bruce*s  Tomb  289. 
Brugsch,H.lx.  cxx vi.  186. 


INDEX. 


441 


Bubastide  Dyn.  civ. 
ISubastis  civ.'  171. 
Buchis  cxli. 
Bueolians  cxi. 
Bucolic  Arm  of  the  Nile 

Ixvii. 
Buffoons  XX vii. 
fil-Buha  172. 
Buhen»412. 
Buhiyeh  Canal  172. 
Jiuildinfts,  Arabian 

clxxviii. 
— ,  Egyptian  clxi. 
llukir  Birds  226. 
IJukiri.i  30. 
Bulak  78. 
—  ed'-Uakrui-  143. 
Bulkeley'26. 
Burckhardt,  J.  L.  77.  404. 
Kurdein  171. 
Burhamiyeh  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Kurlus,  Lake  177. 
Bursbey,  see  Bars  Bey. 
Bush  206. 
Busili  30. 
Butig  219.  235. 
Buto  (Wto)  cxlv.  i7J. 
Byzantines  cxii. 

Cabs  xviii. 
Cfesar  cix.  12. 
Cafes,  Arab  .xxvi. 
Cailliaud,  F.  376.  420. 
Cairo  35.  sxi. 

'Abbas  II.  Bridge   123. 
104. 

'Abbisiyeb  78. 

Abu  Sergeh,  Church  ol' 
107. 

Administratioa    Build- 
ing 62. 

el-'Adra,  Church  of  109. 

Agriculture,  Govern- 
ment' School  of  80. 

'Ain  es-Sira  115. 

Alabaster  Mosque  68. 

American  Mission  42. 

Amr,  Mosque  of  109. 

Anglican  Church  42.  52. 

Aquarium  79. 

Aqueduct,  Old  116.  104. 

Arabian  Museum  02. 

Archives,  Gov.  68. 

Arsenal  79. 

el-'Askar  44. 

'Ataba  el-Khadra  .51. 

Bab  el-Attaba'(Atabet') 
116. 

—  el-'Azab' 68. 

—  el-Futuh  77. 

—  el-Gebei  70. 

—  el-Gedid  68. 


Cairo : 

Bab  el-Karafeh  68. 115. 

—  el-Metwalli  61. 

—  en-Nasr  77. 

—  el-Wastani  08. 
lifibvlon,  Citadel  44. 106 
Bab  Zuweileh  60. 
Bacterioloeical   In- 
stitute 53. 

Bakers  37. 

Bankers  37. 

Barbers,  Arab  48. 

Earkukiyeh  76. 

Baths  iO. 

Bazaars   {see  also   Suk) 

41.  50. 
— ,  Bookbinders'  55. 
— ,  Booksellers'  54. 
— ,  Brass  54. 
— ,  Carpet  54. 
— ,  Coppersmiths'  75 
— ,  Goldsmiths'  74. 
— .  Shoemakers' 54.  58 

62. 
— ,  Silversmiths'  74. 
— ,  Spice  58. 
Beggars  48. 
Beit  el-Kadi  75. 
Bektash'i,  Monasterv  ol 

the  70. 
Bibliographv  46. 
Hirket  el-Ftl  74. 
Bir  Yusuf  70. 
Bookbinders,  House  of 

the  59. 
Booksellers,  Arab  5i. 
— ,  European  40 
Bridges  78.  79.  80.  lOi. 

123. 
British  Agency  37.  52. 
Bulak  78. 

—  Bridge  J9. 
Burckhardt's  Tomb  77 
Cabs  39. 

Cafes  37. 

Caliphs,' Tombs  of  tue 
111. 
Sultan  Barkuk  112 

—  Bars  Bey  113. 
Mother   of  Bars  Bey 

113. 
Sheikh  Galal  111. 
Em;r!;of   Sultan    EI- 

Ghuri  111. 
Sultan  lual  112. 

—  Kait  Bey  113, 
Emi^  Kebir  112. 
Ma'bed^er-Rifa'iyeh 

113. 
Sliaraf  ed-Din'^'Ana- 

113.  _ 
Suleiman  113. 
Khedive  Taufik  114. 


Cairo  : 

Carpets  41.  54. 
Cemeteries,    Christian 

104. 
— .  Mohammedan  77. 

HI.  115. 
Chemical    Laboratory, 

Khedivial  53. 
Chemists  40. 
Churches  42. 
Cigars  41. 
Citadel  68. 
Climate  Ixxvii. 
Clubs  42. 
Confectioner.s  37. 
Consulates  37. 
Coptic  Churches  42.  78. 

107.  109. 

—  Convents  105. 
Correction, House  of79. 
Dancing  Dervishes  71. 
Dar  Beshtak  76. 
Deir  Abu  Sefein  105. 

—  el-Magauri  70. 

—  Mari  Mina;i04. 
Derb  el-Ahmar  61. 
Dervi.sh  Monasteries 

70.  71. 
Diplomatic  Agents  37. 
Donkeys  39. 
Dragomans  39. 
Education  Office' 53. 
E.;yptian,J'useuin,  fee 

Museum. 
Kmbabeh  79. 
Embroiderv,  Oriental 

41. 
Express^Railway  39. 
Ezbekiyeh  51. 
Fadawiyeh  Mausoleum 

78. 
Fish  Market  52. 
Fustat'44.  109. 
Ganiai  ed-Din,  House  of 

59. 
Gami'  Abu  Bekr'Maz- 

har  el-Ansari  76. 

—  Abu'l  'Eia  79. 

—  Abu  Su'ud  111. 

—  el-Ahmar  59. 

—  Emir  Akhor  68. 

—  el-Akmar  76. 

—  Aksunkor  61., 

—  'Ainr  ibn  el-'As  109. 

—  el-Ashraf  Bars  Bey 
53. 

—  el-Azhar  55. 

—  cl-Azrak  61. 

—  Sultan  Beybars  II. 
77.    ■ 

—  el-Burdeini  66. 

-  Ezbek  el-Yusefi  73. 

—  el-Ghuri  59. 


442 


INDEX. 


Cairo  : 
Garni'  Giyiislii  116. 

—  Gohar  68. 

—  el-Hakim  77. 

—  Sultan  Hasan  66. 

—  el-Hasanein  54. 

—  Ibrahim  Agha  61. 

—  Kait  Bey  73. 
— •  Kasr  el-'Aini  53. 

—  el-Keisun  66. 

—  el-Kbaliiwati  117. 

—  Kijmas  el-Ishaki61. 

—  el-JIahmiidiyeh    68 

—  el-Malika  Safiya  66. 

—  el-Mardani  61. 

—  Mohammed  'Ali  68. 
Bev  Abu  Dahab 

53. 

—  el-Muaiyad  59. 

—  en-Nasir  70. 

—  Rifa'iyeb  66. 

—  Salih  Talayeh  62. 

—  Sangar  el-Gauli  74. 

—  Sarghutrtiash  73. 

—  Saryat  70. 

—  es-Seiyideli  Zeinab 
74. 

—  Seiyidna  'l-Hosein 
54. 

—  .ShekbuU  71. 

—  es-Sinaniyeb  79. 

—  Sisariyeb  70. 

—  Suleiman  Basha  70. 

—  Ibn-Tulun  71. 

—  ez-Zahir  78. 
Gates,' «ee  Bab. 
Gebel  el-Ahniar  115 

—  Givushi'116 

—  cl-kbasbab  118. 

—  Yesbkur  71. 
Geographical  Society 

42.  53. 
Geology,  Museum  of  52. 
German  Archaeological 

Institute  42.  79 
Gezireh  79. 
Ghezireb  Palace  Hotel 

36.  79. 
Gizeh^BO. 
Goods  Agents  41. 
Gouvernorat  62. 
Greek  Church  42.  58. 
Hairdressers  40. 
Heliopolis,  Old  120. 

—  Oasis  119. 
Hemali  48. 
History  44. 
H6sb"el-Basha  115. 
Hosbkadam  59. 
Hospitals  40.  78.  106. 
Hotels  35. 
Ibrihim  Pasha,  Statue 

of  51. 


Cairo : 

Imam    Sbafi'i ,     Tomb 

Mosque  of  115. 
Institut  Egyptian  42. 

53. 
— ■  Fiancais   d'Archeo- 

logieOrientale  42.  53. 
l.sma'iliyeh  Quarter  52. 
Joseph's  Well  70. 
el-Kara  68. 
Karat  el-Kabsb  71. 
Kasr  el-'Aini,  Hospital 

■  of  40.  53. 

—  en-Nil  .52. 
Bridge  70. 

—  esh-Sliam''a  106. 
elKatai'  44. 
Keniset  Eliabu  109. 
Khaiyal  ed-l)ill  42. 
el-Khalig,Canal53. 101. 
Klian  el-Kbalili  54. 
Kbedivial   Library  6i. 

—  Palace  51.  120. 
Kulla  Manufactories 

■  110. 

Kutubkhaneb  64. 
Library.  Kbedivial  64 
el  -  Malek  es  -  Saleb 

Bridge  101.  ' 
Mamelukes,    Castle   of 

the  117. 
— ,  Tombs  of  the  llu. 
Mandura,  Tree  of  105. 
Mariette's  Statue  and 

Tomb  81. 
Blari  Girgis,  Cburcb  nf 

109. 
Masr  el-'Atika  44. 

—  el-Kadimeh  105.  44 
Medreseb  Kait  Bey  73. 

—  en-Niisir  76. 

—  Sarsrhutmash  73. 
Meria  House  Hotel    36. 

123. 
Mdtropolitaiu  Railway 

39. 
Mevlevis,  Monastery  of 

the  71. 
Midan  (see   also  Place) 

'Abdin  51. 

—  Bab  el-Hadid  78. 

—  Fumm  el-Khalig  104. 

—  el-Oezireb  79. 

—  Isma'iliyeh  62. 

—  el  Khazindar  52. 

—  Ramses  78. 

—  tialadin  68. 

—  Suleiman  Basha  52 

—  et-Teatro  51. 

—  ez-Zahir  78. 
Mikyas  105. 
Minarets,  Heights  of  66. 
el-Mo'allaka  107. 


Cairo  : 
Model  Workshops  79. 
Mokattam  Hills  116. 
Moses,  Spring  of  118. 
Mosques,  see  Garni'. 
Muristan  Kalaun  75. 
Museum,  Arabian  62. 
MusEDM,  Egyptian  80. 

Abhotep  98. 

Ainenemhet  III.  84. 

Amenertais  88. 

Amenhotep  85.  81. 

Amenopbis  III.  86. 

Ancient  Empire  82. 

Canopus,   Decree    of 
88. 

CopticMonumcnts89. 
104 

Dahshur, Treasure  of 
97. 

Foreign  Dyn.    &  tlie 
Later  Period  87. 

Gaul  88. 

Geese  (Meidum)  83. 

Gold  Treasure  of  the 
19th  Dyn.  lOU. 

Grieco-Roman  Monu- 
ments 88. 

Harhotep,    Tomb 
Chamber  of  84. 

Itatbor,  Cow  of  85. 

Ilor  84.  98. 

fsrael  Stele  86. 

Jewelry  97. 

Kbcpbreu  83. 

Manuscripts,  etc.  101. 

.Mentemhet  89. 

Middle    Empire    <fe 
Hyksos  Period  84. 

Mummies    of   the 
Priests  of  Amon  90. 

— ,  Royal  93. 

Natural  History  Col- 
lection 90. 

New  Empire  84. 

Papyri  101. 

Phiops  83. 

Piankbi  88. 

Pithom  Stele  88. 

Punt,  Queen  of  85. 

Ua-hotep  83. 

Ka-nofer  84. 

Sakkara,  Tablet   of 

8'7: 

Sale  Room  81. 
Sesostris  I.  84. 
Sheikh  el-Beled  82 
Soldiers  92. 
Stone  Implements  90. 
Taharka  89. 
Tell  el-'Amarna 

Tablets  89. 
Tewosret  99.  100. 


INDEX. 


443 


Oairo  : 

JIdsedm,  Kgtptian: 
Teye  09. 
Tliutiuosis  HI.  86. 

—  III.,  Triumphal 
3l0Dunient  of  85. 

—  IV.  85. 

—  IV.,  Chariot  of  i'O. 
Ti  84. 

Toeris  87. 
Ti1kh  el-Karamri?, 
Treasure  of  99. 

JIu.ski  53. 

eu-Na.«ir,Medi-esL'h  and 
Tomb  (if  76. 

Xasriveh Training;  Col- 
lege 53. 

Xewspapers  40. 

Kilometer  105. 

Okellasof  KaitBev  57 
77. 

Old  Cairo  lOG. 

Opera  House  41.  51. 

Palace  Kasr  ed-Du- 
bara  52. 

—  of  Count  Zogheb  52. 
Pensions  36. 
Petrified  Forests  118. 

119. 
Photographs  40. 
Physicians  40. 
Place  (see   also  Midan) 

El-'.4itaba  el-Khadra 

51. 

—  Bab  el-K.hall<  62. 

—  Mohammed  Ali   C8 

—  de  POpera  51. 

—  Ramses  78. 

—  Rumeileh  68. 

—  Saladin  68. 
Police  37.  62. 
Polytechnic  School  80 
Pont  des  Anglais  80. 
Population  44. 

Post  Office  37.  51. 
Printing  (Mfice.Gov. 79 
Prison  68. 

Private  Apartments  36, 
Public   Health   Depart- 
ment .53. 

—  Works,  Ministry  of 
52. 

Rab'  Kait  Bey  113. 
Railway  Stations  35. 
Rennebaum's    Volcano 

115. 
Restaurants  36. 
Roda,  Island  of  105. 
Rod  el-Farag  78. 
Roman  Gate  107. 
Rue  Neuve  63. 
Sahel  Attar  en-Nebi 

106. 


Cairo: 

St.    Barbara's    Church 

109. 
St.  George,  Convent  of 

107. 
St.  Sergiu."!,    Church  of 

107. 
.Sakka  48. 
Sctidols,  Arab  49. 
— ,  European  42. 
.Sebil  'Abd  er-l!ahmaii 

16. 

—  Sultan  Farag  61. 

—  —  Malimud  74. 

—  of  Mohammed  Ali  59 
of  Sheikh  Motahhar 

74. 

—  of   the     Mother    of 
'Abbas  I.  71. 

—  of  the  Mother  of  Is- 
ma'il  Pasha  78. 

—  of  Emir  Shekhuh 
115. 

Shallow  Plays  42. 
csh  Shamyan  109. 
Shari'  el-'Abbasiyeh  7S 

—  Abu'l  'Ela  79. 

—  el-'Akkadin  59. 

—  el-Ashrafiyeh  59. 

—  Bab  el-Futuh  76. 

el-Khalk  74. 

en-Nasr  77. 

el-Wezir  61. 

—  Beit  el-Kadi  75. 

—  Bulak  52. 

—  Clot  Bey  78. 

—  el-Faggala  78. 

—  el-Fahhamin  58. 

—  Fumm  el-Khalig 
104. 

—  el-6amaliyeli  77. 

—  el-Ghuri  .59. 

—  el-Gizeh  SO. 

—  el-G6hargiyeh  75. 

—  el-II:ibbaniyeU  74. 

—  el-nalwagi"54. 

—  el-Hamzawi  el- 
Kebir  58. 

—  —  es-Seghir  58. 

—  el-Hiliniveh  70. 

—  Ibn  Tulun  71. 

—  Kasr  el-'Aini  52. 
'-  en-Nil  62. 

—  el-Khedeiri  73. 

—  el-Khiyamiyeh  62. 

—  el-Khordagiyeh  71. 

—  el-Lobiidiyeh  74. 

—  el-Maghrabi  52. 

—  el-Manakh  52. 

—  el-Marasin  73. 

—  el  -  Margush  el  -  Bar- 
rani  76. 

—  Masrel-Kadimeh  104. 


Cairo : 

Shari'    Mastabet    el- 
MahmalJ68. 

—  el-Menaggidin   59. 

—  Mohammed  .'Ali'  62. 

—  en-Nahhasin  76. 

—  er-Rukbiveh  70. 

—  es  Sahil  79. 

—  es-Sanadikiych  58. 

—  Seiyideh  Zeinab  74. 

—  esh-Sharawani'63. 

—  Shubra  78. 

—  es-Siyufjyeh  70. 

—  Sukkariyeh  59. 

—  Suleiman  Basha  52. 

—  et-Tabbaneh  61. 

—  et-Tarbiyeh  58. 

—  ez-Zahir  78. 
Shekhuh,Conventof71. 
Shops,  European  40. 
Shubra  78. 

Sikkeh  el-Gedideh  53. 
Sikket  el-Badistan   54. 
Societies,  Scientific  42. 
Sporting  CIub•42.^79. 
Stationers  40. 
Steamboat  Offices^ 38. 
Steamboats  39. 
Street  Scenes  46. 
Sudan  Agency  52. 
Suk  {see  also  Bazaar.s) 
ei-'Attarin  58. 

—  el-Hamzawi  68. 

—  el-Kanto  53. 
Sukkariyeh  59. 
Suk  el-Ka.?r,68. 

—  el-Khordagiyeh  50. 

—  en-Nahhasin  50. 

—  es-Saigli  74. 

—  es-Sudan  58. 
.•^uleiman  Pasha,  Monu- 
ment of  52. 

Survey  Department  80. 
.Synagogues  42.  109. 
Taufik,   Tomb  of  114. 
Taufikiyeh  (Juarter  52. 
Technical  School  79. 
Tekkiyeh  es-SultIn 

Mahmud  (or  Habba- 

niyeh)  74. 
Telegraph  Offices  37. 
Theatres  41. 
Tobacco  41. 
Tourist  Agents  38. 
Tramways  38. 
Tribunal,  Internat.  51. 
University   Egyptienne 

52. 
University  of  £1-Azhar 

55. 
Virgin's  Tree  120. 
War  Office  52. 
Water  Carriers  48. 


444 


INDEX. 


Cairo : 

Windmill  Hills  114. 

Woodwork,  Arab  41. 

Zabtiyeh  (Police)  37. 

Zikr    of    the    Dancing 
Dervishes  71. 

Zoological  Gardens  80. 
Calendar,   Mohammedan 

xcv. 
Caligula  ex.  cxxxviii. 
Caliphs  cxix. 
Cambyses  cvi.  cxxxvi. 

144.  148.  3S6. 
Camels  372.  417. 
Campbell's  Tomb  138. 
Camp  de  Ce'sar  25. 
Candace  ex.  336. 
(^anopi  cxlix. 
Canopic  Arm  of  the  Nile 

30.  Ixvii. 
Canopus  30. 
— ,  Decree  of  88. 
Caracalla  cxi.  cxxxix.  14 
Carlton  26. 
('arter,  H.  305. 
Cartouches  cxxvi.  exxx. 

cxxxiii. 
Cataract,  First  303 
— .  Second  412. 
— ,  Fourth  419. 
— ,  Fifth  421. 
— ,  Sixth  423. 
Cat.«,   Jlummies  of   cxli. 

227. 
Caviglial26. 131.135. 144 
Cereals  Ixxiv. 
Chagab  333. 
Challal  363. 
Champollion,    F.    exxvi 

413. 
Chandawil  219.  236. 
Charounah  207. 
Chatb  234. 
Chatby-les-Bains  25. 
el-Chawachnah  197. 
Cheblanga  181. 
Chedniouh  193. 
Chemmis  220. 
Chenoboskion  244. 
Cheops,  see  Kheops. 
Cherbine  175. 
(hibine   el-Kanater   170. 
Chine  32. 

ChosroesHI.  cxiii.  1.5. 
Choua  173. 
Christianity,    Oriental 

liv. 
— ,  Beginnings  of  ex. 
Chronolog.  Tables  xcix. 
Circumcision  xeiii. 
Claudius  I.  ex.  exxxviii. 

870. 
—  U.  cxi. 


Cleopatra  (Queens)  cviii. 

eix.  exxxviii. 
Climate  Ixxvi. 
Columns,  Egyplian  clviii. 
Commiidus   cxi.   exxxix. 
Companions  xiv. 
Constantine     the     Great 

cxii.  260. 
Constantius  cxii. 
Consulates  xx. 
Contra-Latopolis  343. 

Ombos  352. 

Convevances  xvii. 
Cook  &  Son  xiv.  201.  384. 
Coptic  Convents  liv.  '.220. 

221.  224.  225   343. 

■  Worship  107.  liv. 

■  Writing  cxxxi. 
Copts  liv. 

Cornelius  Gallus  ex. 
Cotton,  Cultivation  of 

Ixxiii.  Ixx.  Ixxiv.  416. 

432.  433. 
Cow  Goddesses  cxlii. 
Crocodile  Grotto    of  Ma- 

'abdeh  219. 
—  Lake  186. 
Crocodiles,  Graves  of 

cxli.  219.  333.  352. 
Crocodilopolis  (Gebelein) 

333 

Arsinoe  192.  195. 

Cromer,  Lord  cxxiv. 
Crops  Ixxiii. 
Cush  385. 
Cussse  218. 
Custom  House  xv. 
Customs,   Mohammedan 

xciii. 
Cynopolis  207. 
Cyril  cxii.  15. 

ed-Daba'  29. 
Daba.biyeh(El-Dabaibah) 

333^ 
Dabarosa  411. 
Dabbeh  222. 
Dabeh,  Island  of  413. 
ed-Dabeh  222. 
Dubod  387. 
Dcrdalus  Shoal  424. 
Da^ash  420. 
Dahabiyehs  204. 
Dahshur  166. 
Dakahliveh,  Province  of 

xivii.  173. 
Dakhleh,  Oasis  of  382. 

xlvii. 
Dakin  Island  433. 
Dakkeh  395. 
Damanhur  31. 
ed-Damer  421. 
Damietta  (Dumyat)  175. 


Dancers,  Female  xxvii. 
Danfiq  250. 
Daphnae  185. 
Daraw  (Darau)  341. 
Darb  el-Hamzawi  (el- 

Melek)  217. 
Darius  I.    cvi.  cxxxvi. 

182.  381. 

—  II.  cvi. 

Date  Palms  Ixxv. 
Davis,  Th.  298. 
Davison  126.  131. 
Dead,  Books  of  the  284. 
— ,  Gods  of  the  cxlviii. 

,  Judgment  of  the 

cxlviii. 
Debba  420. 

Debeira  (Debiera)  411. 
Debod  387. 
Dechachah  207. 
Dechna  222. 
Decius  cxi.  cxxxix.  14. 
Defra  33. 

Dehmit  (Dehmiel)  388. 
Deinocrates  12. 
ed-Deir  234. 
— ,  Fort  of  382. 
Deir  Abu  Bshoi  (near 

Sohag)  220. 
(Wadi  Natriin) 

32. 

Hennes  210. 

Makar  32. 

—  el-Abvad  220. 

—  el-'Adra  22U. 

—  el-Ahmar  220. 

—  Anba  Matteos  343. 

Musa  243. 

Sama'an  360. 

Shenuda  220. 

—  el-Bahri  299. 

—  el-Bakara  226. 

—  el-Ballas  clxi. 

—  Baramus  32. 

—  el-Bersheh  210. 

—  Bosra  235. 

—  el-Bukir  226. 

—  el-Gabrawi  219. 

—  Gebel  it-Teir  226. 

—  el-Hadid  2.S6. 

—  el-koseir  231. 

—  Mar  Antonios  226. 

—  Mari  Boktor  224. 
Girgis  224. 

—  Mawas  211. 

—  el-Medineh  316. 

—  el-Mel  ak  (near  Girgeh) 
221. 

(near  NaUadeh)  224. 

Moes  211.  ■ 

—  Rifeh  234. 

—  es-Salib  224. 

—  esh-Shelwit  330. 


INDKX. 


445 


Deir  es-Sitteh  Damianeh 
243. 

—  es-Suryan  32. 
Deiriit  218. 

—  e«h-Shepif  318. 
Deities,  Egyptian   cxlix. 

cliii. 
Dekernes  174. 
Delingat  32. 
Demid  404. 
Demirdash  (Demerdache) 

120. 
Demotic  \Vi-itin<;  cxxxi. 
Dendera  244. 

-,  Zodiac  of  259. 
Dendur  393. 
ed-Denfik  250. 
Derr  400.' 
Dervi.shes  xci. 
Derweh  211. 
Desert,  the  lxi.\.  Ixxviii. 
Ueshasheh  20T.  193. 
DesUna  222.  24'i. 
Desuk  32 
Diarb-Negm  17J. 
Dibeireh  411. 
Difinu  (DifiQo)  193. 
Dikkeh  clxxxi. 
Dimei  (Dimay)  196. 
Dimishkin  19'3. 
Dimri  38S. 
Dink  a  Negroes  434. 
Diocletian  cxi.  IB.  3^6. 
Diodorus  .xlix.  '2S6.  306 
Dionysias  197. 
Diospolis  Magna  254. 

—  Parva  244. 
Dira'  ii. 
Dirgham  cxvi. 
Dirhem  ii. 

Dirkeh  clxxxiii.  clxxxv 

Dirr  400. 

Disbna  222. 

Diwan  400. 

Dofannu  103. 

Dom  3i3. 

Doniitian  ox.  cxxxix.  245 

Dongola,  Province  of  415 

—  el-'Agiiza  420. 

—  Dialect  Ix. 
Donkeys  xviii. 
Doseh  xcvi. 
Dragoman.'!  xxv 
Drah  Abu'l  Keg.'; 
Dronkeh  234. 
ed-Dueig  377. 
ed-Dueim  433. 
Duleib  Hill  435. 
Dum  Palm  Ixxvi. 
Dum^at  175. 
Durka'a  clxxxv. 
Dwellinj:   Houses. 

clxxxiii. 


39  204. 
a  283. 


.\rab 


Dwelling  Houses,  Kgyp- 

tian  clxi. 
Dyes  Ixxiv. 
Dynasties  xcviii. 

Earle,  Gen.  419.  16. 
Eai'u  cslviii. 
Ebchawai  192.  196. 
Ebe,  Tomb  of  (El-Asaslt) 

305. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Gebel  Mo 

rag)  219. 
Ebers,  G.  125. 
Ebgig  193. 
Ebnub  232. 
Kb.'ihuai  192.  196 
Edfina  31.  32. 
Edfu  343.  337. 
Edku  30. 
— .  Lake  30. 
Edwards,  Amelia  408 
Edweh  (Edwab)  191.  193. 
Egypt,  Area  and  Sub- 
divisions of  xlvi. 
— ,  History  of  xcviii. 
—  Exploration  Fund  300 

304. 
Egyptians,  Origin  of  the 

xlviii. 
Kbi  245. 

Eileithviaspoli.s  333. 
'Ein  e=h-Shems  120. 
Ekb-en-Aton  cii. 
Ekhet-Aton  211. 
Elephantine  357. 
F.llesiveh  402. 
Embabeh  79    143.  32. 
Emerald  Mines  377. 
Eme-wet  cl. 
Empire,     the     Ancinit 

xcix. 
— ,  the  Middle  c. 
— ,  the  New  ci. 
Emset  cl. 

Emunezeb,  Tomb  of  311. 
Enchorial  Writing  cxxxi. 
Enei,  Tomb  of  216. 
Enet  245. 

Enher-mo.se,  Tomb  I  if  221 
Enhuret  cxl.  cl. 
Enit  342. 
Enkh-me-llor,    Tomb   n 

lb2. 
Eune.  Tumb  of  312. 
Entebbe  43G. 
Entef  c.  cxxxiii. 

oker.  Tomb  of  313. 

Epei.  Tomb  of  216. 
Epepi  cxxxiii. 
Epet  cl.  264. 

Esowet  254. 

Epu  220. 
Equipment  xjv. 


Eratosthenes  355. 
Erbkam  125. 
Ergamenes  366.  395. 
Eri-bems-nufer  cl.  366. 
Erkowit  426. 
Erment  332.  341. 
Ert-Har-erow  cvi. 
Eset,  Tomb  of  320. 
Esneh  (E'^na)  342.  333. 
Espelut  88.  422. 
Esse  cx.xxiii. 
Est-em-kheb  207. 
Ethiopia  3=15. 
Etlidem  209. 
Etsa  (Faivum)  193. 

—  (Upper  Eiypt)  203. 
Etu,  Tomb  of  222. 
Euhemeria  198. 
Europeans  Ixii. 
Eutychians  Iv. 
Ews-os  cl. 
Expenses  xiii. 
Eve  cii.  221. 
— ,  Tombs  of  2LG.  298. 
'Ezbeh  xlvii. 
'Ezbet  Mattar  193. 

—  en-Nakhleh  120. 

—  ez-Zeitun  120. 
Ezekher-Amun  387. 

Fachen  207. 
Fademineh  193. 
Faied   181. 
Faiyum,  the  190. 
Fakir  xci. 
Fakus  172. 

—  Canal  171.  172. 
Fant  207. 
Faniis  clxxxi. 
Faou  222. 
Farafra,  Oasis  of  379. 

xlvii. 
Farag  cxviii.  45.  112. 
Faras  411. 

Fareskur  (Farascour)  175. 
Far'  el-Gharbi  30. 
Farkha  Canal  20. 
Farm  Produce  Ixxiv. 
Farrik  404. 
Farshut  222. 
Fa?hi  Shoya  434. 
Fashn  207. 
Fashoda  434. 
Faskiyeh  clxxxiv. 
Fasts,  Moslem  xcvi. 
Fatba  Ixxxvii.  50. 
Fatimites  cxv. 
Fan  222.  244. 
el-Fawakhir  375. 
Fayid   181. 
Feddan  ii. 
Fellahin  Ii. 
el-Ferdan  179.  186. 


446 


INDEX. 


Feshn  207.  225. 
Festivals,  Moslem  xcv. 
Fez  47. 
Fidimin  193. 
Fikh  Ixxxvi. 
Fleming  56. 
Forkos  193 
Fortilied     Structure."!, 
Arab  clxxxiii. 

—  — ,  Kgvptian  clxii. 
Fort  Nasr"  436. 
Fountains  clxxxii. 
Fraas,  E.  372.  375. 
French   Expeditimi    cxx, 

126.  180.  266.  284.  288, 
298. 

—  Residents  Ixiii. 
Fresh  Water   Canal     180, 

188. 
Fruit  Trees  Ixxv. 
Fumm  el-Buhiyeh  172. 

173. 

—  es-Safuriyeh  172.  173 
Funerals  xi'iii. 

Fung  Arabs  422. 
Furkundi  404. 
Fustat,  44. 

Gabbari  26. 
Gahrat  ed-Oaira  :!76. 
Ga]lienu.<!  cxi.  I'l. 
Callus,  C.  Cornelius  ex, 

256. 
Ganibela  436. 
(;3.mi'  clxxx. 
Gara,  Oasis  of  378. 
Garadu  1''3. 

(iarstang,  I'rof.  2-'l.  422 
Garstiii,  Sir  W.  232.  372 
Gautier  127. 
Gazelle  lliver  43'>. 
Geb,  see  Keli. 
Gebadsei  Ivii. 
Gebeit  425. 
Gebcl  Abu  Foda  231. 

—  Abu  Hasar  215. 

—  Abu  Ku'  374. 

*  —  Abu  Shega  337. 

—  Abyad  377. 

—  Addeh  410. 

—  el-Ahmeir  115. 

—  Ahmed  Agha  434. 
'  Taher   181. 

—  el-Amira  435. 

—  Arashkol  433. 

—  Auli  433. 

—  Avveibed  181. 

—  Barkal  419. 

—  Daghaniyeh  375. 

—  Dukhan  373. 
Gebelein  (Sudan)  434. 

—  (Upper  Egypt  I  333. 
Gebel  Eliri  435. 


Gebel  Fatireb  373. 

—  Garra  362. 

—  Geneifeb  (Geneffeh) 
181. 

—  Gerri  423. 

—  Ghilrib  423. 

—  Ghennt'ima    (Gennib- 
ma)  382. 

—  Giyushi  116. 

—  Hamata  877. 

—  el-Hammam  352. 

—  Hayati  395. 

—  Homr  376. 

—  Karara  225. 

—  el-Karn  373. 
Katherin  421. 
pl-Khasbab   118. 

—  Kurknr  362. 

—  Kurneh  219. 

—  Kurtunos  362. 

—  Lado  436. 

—  Mandara  433. 

—  Marag  219. 

—  Jlaryam  180. 

—  Jlokattam  116. 

—  jro.s'baghir  37li. 

—  cl-M6ta  379. 

—  JIugef  377. 

—  Musa  424. 

—  Nuhas  375. 

—  er-Raba  189. 

—  Itekbam  235. 

—  Serbal  424. 

—  Sheikh  Embarak  225. 
el-Haridi  236. 

—  Sheimet.  el-Wah    387. 

—  Slieroneh  343. 

—  Silsileh  3^8. 

—  Soterba  424. 

—  Surgham  431. 

—  Surkab  431. 

—  Tarif  244. 

—  et-Teir  226. 

—  TeA  424. 

—  et-Tib  189. 

—  Tukh  236. 

—  Tara  167. 

—  ilmm  Shoniar  424. 

—  'Uweiliid   181. 

—  Wal(if  376. 

—  Zubara  377. 
Gedideh  382. 
Geiger  411. 
Geili  423. 
Gemmei  413. 
Gemmeizeh  174. 
Geneifeb  (Gcncffeb)  181. 
Geneineh  403. 

Genoa  4.  6. 

Geographical  Notice  xlvi. 
Geologiial  Notice  Ixviii. 
f^erf-Husein  394. 
Germanicus  ox. 


Germans  Ixiii. 
(^eta  cxxxix. 
el-Geteina  433. 
el-Gezireh  399. 
Gezireh    (Gezeireb)    341. 
362. 

(Sudan)  432. 
Geziret  Abu  Ras  402. 

Ana3  el-Wogiid  364. 

—  Assuan  357. 
Behig  232. 
el-Bibeh  225. 

—  Faras  411. 

—  el-Uawata  231. 
Ibri'm  402. 

—  el-Kurn  19li. 
Kurteh  397. 
el-Mandara  231. 

—  el-Melek  413. 

—  Rod  a  105. 
SLaruna  225. 

Ghabat  243. 

—  el-'Arab  436. 
el-Gharak  li)3. 
Gharb-As'suan  361. 
Gharbiyeh,    Province    of 

33.  xlvii. 
(Uiawazi  xxvii. 
Ghazal  29. 
(ihaziyehs  x.xvii. 
Ghazzali  xci. 
Gheit  en-Na.sara  177. 
Gherlianeyat  29. 
el-Gbeta  374. 
el-Ghorayeli  235. 
el-Ghuri  cxix.  59.  116. 
Gianaclis  2i). 
(diggings  436. 
Gildeh  211. 
Giraffe  River  435. 
Girgawiveh  Canal  236. 
Girgeh  (Girga)   221.  23(i. 
— ,  Province  of  219.  xlvii. 
Girsheh  39 1. 
Girt  as  383. 
el-Gisr  186. 
Gizeh  80. 

— ,  Province  of  80.  xlvii. 
— ,  Pyramids  ol  123. 
Glymenopoulos  26. 
Godaieda  181. 
Gods,  Egyptian  cxlix. 

cliii. 
Gohar  cxv.  44.  55. 
Golenishetr  376. 
Gondokoro  436. 
Gordon,  Gen.  cxxiv.  427. 

428.  43,3. 
Gorst,  Sir  1'].   cxxv. 
Goshen  180. 
Gosu  218. 

dovernorates  xlvii. 
Goz  Abu  Gum'a  434. 


INDKX. 


447 


Gozeh  xxvi. 
Graf,  Th.  193. 
Greeks  Ixii. 

Grenfell,  B.P.  197.198.207. 
— ,  Lord  358. 
C'Ubat  cxxiv. 
el-Gudhi  387. 
Guemmezeh  174. 
Guerga  221.  236. 

Haditli  Ixxxv. 
Madra  20. 

Hadrian  cxi.  oxxxlx.  14. 
209.  250.  330.  331.  369. 
lla'^gi  cxviii. 
Hagn-Kandil  211. 
el-Hakim  cxv.  77. 
Hakor  cvii. 
el-Halahiyeh  225. 
Haifa  411. 

—  ,  Provinc  of  415. 
Halfayeh  423. 
Haniiimiyeh  235. 
Hamburg  &  .Anglo-.Ameri- 

can  Kile  Co.   xiv.   202. 

3S4. 
el-IIamidat  223. 
Hamilinn  126. 
Ilammam  29 
Uaininaiiiat  Mts.  :i74. 

—  Kubb.'h  120. 
Haiiinul  Karari  174. 
el-Ilanira  232. 
Ilanbalites  Ixxxvi. 
ilandliub  425. 
Handicrafts,  Egyplian 

clxxvii. 
Hanefites  Ixxxvi. 
H:inefiyeh  clxxxi. 
lUipi  (guardian-deity)  cl. 

—  CNile-'od)  oxlii.  848. 
H:.p-7.efaV,  Tnmb  „i  234. 
Harakhte  cxliii.  cl.  cliii. 

120.  237.  398.  399.  400. 
404. 
t'l-Haram  el-Kaddali  205 

—  esh-Showwaf  16lj. 
el-H.iratra  377. 
Harem  clxxxiii. 
Hareiiiheb   oii.    cxxxiv. 

257.  279.  2-0.  3HS.  410 
— ,  Tomb  of  King  298. 
— .    Tomb    of  (General) 

312. 
Harendotes  cl.  cliv.  370. 
Hare  Nom.^  209.  210.  231 
llaren.sniiphis  cl.  366. 
I.Iarit  198. 

Har  khentekbtai  cl. 
Harkbuf.  Tomli  nf  MO. 
Ilarniachi.'!  cl    13'). 
Harmais,  see  Hareiiiheb. 
Har-mcrti  172. 


Harmose.  Tomb  of  337. 
Har-net-yotf,  see  Haren- 
dotes. 
Haroeris  223.  349. 
Harper's  Tomb  289. 
Ilarpocrates  cxlvii.  cl. 

366. 
Harris  219. 
Har-sem-tewe  (Harsom- 

tu.s)_cl.  245.  344. 
Harsiesis   cl. 
Harvest  Ixxiii. 
Harwa,    Tomb  of  305. 
Ilasabiyeb  211. 
Hasan.  8ultan  cxvili.  66. 
Hashish  xxvi.  Ixxiv. 
Hatbor    cxl.    cxli.    cxlii. 

cxliii.    cxlvi.    cl.    cliv. 

205.  218.  226.  245.  302. 

30,1.  3Ui.  344.  349.  370 

409. 

■  I'dlumns  clxi. 
Hatsbep>ut  cii.  cxxxiv. 

227.  273.  279.  299.  328. 

412.  411. 

,  Tomb  of  2r6. 
el-H;ivvauidivt"b  143. 
Hawara  193!  194. 
— ,  Pyramid  ,<(  19'l. 
Hawaiet  'Kdlan   ('E'.;lan) 
■  191. 

—  el-Makta'  194. 
Hawariyeh  28. 
el  Hawata  231. 
el-Hawatkeh  232. 
eI-Hawa\vish  221. 
Hawi  xxvii. 
Headquarters  380. 
Health  Resorts  xxi. 
Hebenn   208. 
Hebet  175. 
Hegira  l.vxxiv. 
el-H.'gz  23?. 
Hehiyeh  (Hehia)  172. 
Heik^l,  the  109. 
Hekew  261. 
Heke-yeb,  Tomb  of  3.59. 
Helena,  Empress  226.  343, 
Heliodorus  284. 
Heliopolis  cxlv.  120. 

—  Oasis  119.  xxii. 
el-Hella  343. 
pl-Helleh  2.5(1. 
Helniiyeh  120. 
llehvan   167.  xxii. 
Hemali  4S. 

Heml  xciii. 

Hemp  (hashish)  xxvi 

Ixxiv. 
Henen-nesut  206 
Henna  Ixxiv    47. 
Heracleopolis  206. 
Heracles  206. 


Heraclius  cxiii.  15. 
Herhnsh  376. 
Herihor  civ.  262. 
Herishef  cxl.  cl.  206. 
Hermonthis  332. 
Hermopolis  209. 

—  Parva  31. 
Hermupolis  173. 
Herodotus  cvi.  cxlix.  121. 

124.  131.  145.  171.  180. 

182.  190.  193.  220.  364. 

422. 
HeroiMiolite  Bav  182. 
Hesa  387. 
Hesfun  333. 
el-Hesseh  387. 
Hetep-Senwosret  196. 
Het-ne>ut  207. 
Het-nub,  Quarries  of  218. 
1-Hibeh  207.  225. 
Hibet  382. 
Hibis  382. 

Hicks  Pasha  cxxiv.  433. 
Hierakonpolis  337. 
Hierasykaminos  397. 
Hieratic  Writing  cxxxi. 

ierOEclyphics  cxxvi. 
Hijra  Ixxxiv. 
el-Hilleb  343. 
Hiliet  'Abbas  433. 

—  Duleib  4.35. 
History  of  Egypt   xcviii. 
Hittites,    War   with    the 

243.  258.  271.  272   306. 

407. 
Hnes  206. 
el-Hoch  337. 
Hogarth,  D.  O.  197. 
H<imer  255. 
Hophrah,  see  .\ pries. 
Hor,  Tomb  of  167. 
Horbeil   172. 
Hoius     cxl.    cxli.     cxlii. 

cxliii.   cxlv.  cl.  31.  44. 

175.  236.  237.  245.  3i3. 

344. 
Hosein  54.  xcvi. 
Hosh  clxxxiii.   clxxxv. 
el-H6sh  337. 
Hotels  xviii 
Hou  (Hu)  244. 
Hunt  198.  207. 
Huwa  xxvii. 
iluve.   Tomb  of  (Kurnet 

M"urrai)  3IS. 
",  Tumb  of  (Tell  el- 

Amiirna)  213. 
Hydreunia  Trajani  373. 
Hyksos,  the  ci. 
Ilypatia  cxii.   15 
Hypostvle  Hall  clxiv. 
Hypselis  235. 
Hypselite  Kome  219.  235, 


448 


INDKX. 


Ibrahim  Bey  cxx. 

—  Pasha  cxxii.  cxxi.  115, 
402. 

Ibrahimiyeh  (near 
Alexandria)  25. 

—  (near  Zakazik)  172. 

—  Oanal  20&.  218.  232. 
Ibrim  fibreem)  402. 
Ibshawai  192. 
Ichneumon  20G. 
Igma'  Ixxxv. 
Ikh'ihidides  cxv. 
lllahun  194.  193. 
'Ilwaniyeh  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Imam  xcii. 

—  Shafi'i  Ixxxvi.  115. 
Imesib,  Tomb  of  313. 
Imhntep   oxUu.  cli.  304 

366. 
Immortality,    Egyptian 

doctrine  of  cxlvii. 
Inaros  cvi. 
Inshas  171. 
Intercourse  with  Orient- 

uls  xxiv. 
Inti,  Tomi)  of  207. 
Ipsambul  404. 
Irrigation  Ixxi.  Ixv. 
Iseum  174. 
Isis   cxliii.  cxlvi.  oxlvii 

cli.  cliv.  131.  175.  197, 

198.  237.  250.  330.  855, 

366.  397. 
Iskanderieh  11. 
el-Islam  Ixxix. 
— ,  Doctrine.'!  of  Ixxxiii, 
Isma'il.  Khedive   cxxii. 

xlvi.  33.  46.  52.  64.  66, 

—  (son  of  Blohammed 
Ali)  387.  422. 

Isma'iliyeh  (Ismailiai 
179. 

—  Canal  180. 

Istabl  'Antar  (Assiut)  234 

—  —  (Benihasan)  227. 
Isthmus  of  .Suez  182. 

Ixviii. 
Itai  el-BarOd  32. 
Italians  Ixiii. 
Itang  436. 
Itinerarium     Antonini 

376. 
lyun  Musa  (Suez)  189. 

Ja'alin,  the  423. 
.Tacobites  Iv. 
.Teddah  424.  377. 
Jemnuti  174. 
.T^quier  127. 
Jews  Ixii. 
Jidda  424.  377. 
Jinn  Ixxxix. 


John  of  Jerusalem,  King 
176. 

—  of  Lycopolis  233. 
Jomard,  E.  F.  12G. 
Joseph's  Canal,  see  Bahr 

Yusuf. 
Jubal,  Straits  of  424. 
Jugglers  xxvii. 
Julian  cxii.  14. 
Jar  River  Mouth  436. 
Justice,  Courts  of  xx. 
Justinian  cxiii.  15.  365. 
Juvenal  354.  331. 

Ka  cxlix. 

Ka''a  clxxxv.  clxxxiv. 

el-Ka'a  424. 

el-Kab  333. 

Kabbabish   Beduins   420. 

430. 
Kabd  402. 
Kabileh  Ivii. 
Kabushiyeh  421. 
Kadesh,  Battle  of  258. 271. 

3(6.  307. 
Kadiriyeh  Dervishes  xcii. 
Kafr  Ahmar  205. 

—  ''Awaneh  32. 

—  el-Battil<h  175. 

—  Daud  32. 

—  ed-Dawar  31. 

—  Hamza  171. 

—  e'l-Haram  138. 

—  el-Kahragelleh  223. 

—  Sakr  172. 

—  Sarem  174. 

—  esh-Sheilih  175. 

—  ez-Zaiyat  33. 
Kaft  223. 
Kafiir  cxv. 
Kagera  Eiver  Ixiv. 
Kagug  (El-Kagog)  33S. 
Kaha  34. 

Kahf  el-'Asakir  234. 
el-Kahira  43.  45. 
Kaiiun  196. 
Kainepolis  222. 
Kais  207. 

KaitBevcxix.  73. 113.176. 
Kaka  434. 
Kalabsheh  389. 
Kalamsha  193. 
Kalamun  382. 
Kalandul  231. 
Kalaun  cxvii.  75. 
Kalin  (Kalline)  32.  175 
Kalyub  34.  121. 
Kalyubiyeh,  Province  of 
■  34.  xlvii. 
Kamariyeh  clxxxvi. 
el-Kamil,    Malik     cxvii, 

173.  176. 
Kamlin  432. 


Kamula  250. 
KanaiSj  Pass  of  378. 
Kanayat  171.  172. 
Kandil  clxxxi. 
el-Kannan  343. 
Kantar  ii. 

el-Kantara  185.  179. 
Kant,irl72. 
el-Kara  380. 
el-Karaba  421. 
Karanis  197. 
Karanog  402. 
Kareima  4L9. 
Karit  el-Musabberiu  370. 
itarm  Abuni  28. 
Karnak  262. 

Table  of  Kings  275. 

Temple  of  Amon  265 

—  of  Epet  264. 

—  of  Khons  262. 

—  of  Mont  277. 

—  of  Mut  280. 

—  of  Osiris  276. 

—  of  Ptah  277. 

—  of  Ramses  II.  276. 
III.  267.  281. 

—  of  Sethos  II.  266. 

—  ofThutmosi8m.275. 
Ka.^abeh  ii. 

Kasasin  181. 
Kased  Canal  33. 
Kashta  civ. 

el-Kasr  (Bahriyeh  Oasis) 
3*79.' 

—  (Dakhleh   Oasis)  382. 

—  (Kasr  e.s-Saiyad)  244. 
Kasr  ei-'Aguz  330. 

—  'Ain  Mustafa  Kashif 
382. 

ez-Zaiyan  382. 

—  Anas  el-Wogud  364. 

—  el-Banat  (Faiyum)  198. 

—  —  (near  Lakeita)  374. 

—  Dush  382. 
Kasreh  Canal  237. 
Kasr  el-Gebali  193. 

—  el-Ghueida  382. 

—  Ibrim  402. 

—  Karun  197. 

—  el-Kayasereh  26. 

—  es-Sagha  197. 

—  es-Saivad  244. 

'-,  Tombs  of  222. 

Kassala   421. 

— ,  Province  of  415. 

Kassassine  181. 

Katta  32. 

Katteb  402. 

Kau  235. 

Kavasses  xx. 

Kawa  434. 

Kawamil  221. 

Keb  cxlii.  cxliii.  cxlv.  cli . 


INDEX. 


449 


Kebb-snewf  cli. 
Kebtoyew  2'23. 
Ke-gem-ni,    Mastaba    of 

162. 
el-Kei9_207. 
Kemare-Hatshepsut,   see 

Hatshepsut. 
Kemose  ci. 

Keneh  (Kena)  222.  244. 
■  372. 

— ,  Province  of  223.  xlvii 
Keniseh  435. 
Kenuz  Dialect  Ix. 
Kerdaseh  139. 
Kerma  420. 
Kerreri  431. 
Kertassi  38S. 
kbabbash  cvi.  148. 
Kha-em-bet.  Tomb  of  310 
Khaiyal    ed-Dill    xxvii 
Kbamasin  Ixxviii. 
Kbamweset  147. 
— ,  Tomb  of  320. 
Kbandak  420. 
Kbankah  121. 
Kbans  60. 
Kbaregites  xcii. 
Khar^eh,  Oasis  of  379. 

xlvii. 

—  (town)  3S0. 
Ehslrgeh  Junction  222. 

380. 
Khartum  (Lower  Nubia) 
3S9'. 

—  (Sudan)  426. 
— ,  Province  of  415. 

—  North  423. 
Kbashm  Khalil  197. 
Kbataana  172. 
Khatatbeh  32. 
Ebatmiyeb  Dervishes 

xcii. 
cl-Khattara  341.  352. 
elKha'wi  343. 
el-Kha/.an  3(i3. 
Khefre.  see  Khephren. 
Kbf.nit  338. 
Kliensumes,  Tomb  of  315. 
Kbente-Amentiu    cxlviii. 

237. 
Kbeute-Min''220. 
Khenusew,  Tomb  of  360. 
Kheops  xcix.  cxxxiii.  127. 

171.  ■ 
Khephren   xcix.  cxxxiii. 

131.  135.  171. 
— ,  Granite  or  Valley 

Temple  of  13.i. 
Khepre  cli. 
el-Khcrbeb  243. 
Kbere-obe  44. 
Kheti.  Tomb  of  (Assiut) 

234. 


Kheti,    Tomb    of   (Beni 

hasan)  228. 
el-Khewa  H43. 
Khizam  224.  250. 
RhizandarivchCanal236. 
Kbmunu  209. 
Khnemhotep,    Tombs    of 

22-!.  230. 
Khnum    c.xli.    cxlii.    cli 

cliv.  197.  235.  342. 
el-Khoka  305. 
Khons  cli    257.  262. 

-Hor  349. 
Khonsu,  Tomb  of  315. 
Khor  el-Akaba  362. 
Khorbeta  172. 
Khor  Shambat  431. 
Khufu,  see  Kheops. 
KhuV,  Tomb  of  359. 
Khumarawelh  cxiv.  44. 
Kbunes.    Tomb    of    (As- 

suan)  359. 
— .   Tomb  of  (Kom  el- 

Ahmar)  209. 
Kibla  clxxxi. 
Kiman  Paris  192. 
Kings,  Cartiiuches  of 

Egyptian  cxxxiii. 
— ,  Lists  of  xcix.  87.  241 

275. 
— ,  Tombs   of  clxviii   et 

seq.  284. 
Kio  435. 
Kirbekan  419. 
Kiro  436. 
Kism  xlvii. 
Ki.sumu  436. 
Kisweb  xcvi. 
Kitchener,Vi3(;ouut  cxxv. 

421.  427.  431. 
Kitchener's  Islanil  358. 
Kitchens,  Public  48. 
Kiyas  Ixxxvi. 
klOber,  Gen.  4G.  120. 
Klysma  188. 
Kobosb   393. 
Kodok  434 
Kohafa  194. 
Kohl  li. 

Koiosna  2<i7   226 
ICom'.Abu  Radi  1!)1. 

—  el-Ahmar  (near  El 
Kab)  337. 

(near  Minyeh)  208 

( near  Shar'una)  207 

—  el-Akhdar  123. 

—  el-Atrib  34. 

—  Eshkaf  219. 

—  Paris  192. 

—  el-6izeh,31. 

—  el-Hamadab"32. 

—  el-fleitan  332. 

—  'Imran  373. 


Kom  Isliqau  219. 
Kom  el-Kasbab  138. 

—  el-Kefara  208. 

—  el-Kharyana  192. 
el-Kolzum  188. 

—  Om'ho  349.  341. 

—  et-Terban  30. 

—  Ushim  1&7. 
Konaisseh  32. 
Konosso  371. 
Koptos  223.  372. 
Koran  Ixxxix.  Ixxxv.  50. 

65. 
Korashiyeh  174. 
Kordofan   415.  433.  xlvi. 
Koror  363. 
Korosko  398. 
Korti  420. 
Ko-seir  375. 

el-'Amarna  218. 
Kosh  385. 
Kosheisheh  20fi. 
kosbtamneh  395. 
Kiisti  433.  434. 
Kotur  32.  33.  174. 
koubbeh-les-Bains  120. 
Kous  223. 
Koz  Rejab  421. 
Kuban  397. 
Kubaniyeh  352. 
Kubbet  el-Hawa  360. 
kuboshab  393. 
Kubri  Kubbeh  120. 
Kue3na'34. 
kuft  223.  372. 
kuhafeh  lf4.  193.  195. 
el-Kula  343. 
Kulla  Manufactories  110. 

223. 
Kummeh  414. 
Kuri  395. 

Kurkur,  Oasis  of  362. 
Kurna  282. 

kurnet  Mnrrai  (Mar'ai) 
■  318. 

Kurn  el-Gennah  382. 
el-Kurru  420. 
Knrsi  clxxxi. 

—  Paraxon  193. 
Kurteh  397. 
kurudati  xxvii. 
kuR  223. 
el-Ku.siyeh  218. 
Ku'aruf  Pasha  cxxi. 
Kustol  410 
el-Kusur  253. 
Kuftai)  clxxxii. 
Kysis  382. 

Labvrinth,  the  196. 
I. ado  43H. 
Lagin  71. 
el-Lahiin,  see  Ulahun. 


450 


INDEX. 


Lakeita  374. 
Language,  Arabic  xxviii 
Lafopolis  342. 
Laurens  26. 
Law,  Mohammedan 
Ixxxv. 

—  Courts  XX. 
Lebbakh  Tree  Ixxv. 
Le  Brun  167. 

Le  Cap  179. 
Legrain,  G.  266. 
Le-hone  194. 
Leilet  el-Kadr  xcvi. 

—  el-Mi'rag  xcvi. 

—  en-Nnkta  xcvii. 
el-Leisia  402. 
Leontonpolis   (Tell  Mnk- 

dam)  174. 

—  (Tell  el-Yebudiveh) 
171. 

Lepere,  .T.  B.  183. 
Lepidotonpolis  221. 
Lepsius,  R.  125.  126.  140. 

193.  195.  376.  420. 
Lesseps.Ferd.  de  183. 178 
Letopolis  32. 
Letters  xix. 
I.eukos  Linien   375. 
Levantines  Ixi. 
1-ibvan  Desert  Ixx.  liiO. 

378. 
F,isht  205. 
Livyan  clxxx. 
Lotus  ColuiiiD,^  olix. 
Louis  IX.  cxvii.  173.  176, 
Lucian  14. 
Lul  434. 

Luxor  251.  2'24.  xxii. 
Lycopolis  233. 

cl-MaTibdeh  219. 
el-Ma'adi  167. 
el-Ma'adiyeh  30. 
Maaaaret  Donda  193. 
Maat  cli.  civ. 
Ma'azeh  Bedviins  Iviii 
Habwalas  373. 
Mabvyalat    Kbur   el-Gbir 
376. 

—  Has  A.sfar  3T6. 
Macrianus  cxi. 
Macrinus  cxi. 
Madia  30. 

Madiq  (Madiaki  397. 
Maghagha  207.  225. 
el-Mabamid  333. 
Mabariq  380. 
Jlaharraka  397. 
el-Mahasi  Dialect  Ix. 
el-Mahatta  363. 
Mabdi,'  tbe,   see  Moham- 
med .\hmcd. 
Mahmal  xcv. 


el-Mahmudi  cxviii. 
Mahmudiyeh  Canal  15. 12. 

30.  32.  122. 
Hahsameh  ISO. 
Mahu,  Tomb  of  215. 
Mak'ad  clxxxiv. 
Makrizi  226. 
el-Biaks  332. 
Maleig  Road  432. 
Malek  436. 

Malik  ibn  Aua.<!  Ixxxv. 
Malikites  Ixxxvi. 
Malkata  330. 
Malki  39S. 
Mallawi  231. 
Maltese  Residents  Ixiii. 
Mameluke  Dynasty  cxvii 
Mammisi ,     see    Birth 

Houses. 
Ma'mun  cxiv.  105. 
Ma'milr  xlvii. 
Mamura  30. 
el-Manasbi  32.  121. 
Mancbiet  es-Sadr  120. 
Mandara  clxxxiv. 
cl-Mandara  30. 
Mandalis  366.  389. 
Manetho  xcviii.  174. 
Manfalut  218.  231. 
Mansafis'  20!l. 
Mansura  173.  175. 
Mansuriyeh  349. 
el-Man.sur  Kalailn    cxvii. 

75.    ■        ■ 

—  Lagin  71.  73. 
el-Maragha  219.  236. 
Marah  186.  189. 
.Marcian  cxiii.  386. 
Marcus  Aurelius  cxi. 

cxxxix.  14.  236. 
Mareia  27. 
Mareoti?,  Lake  27. 
1-Marg  121. 
Maria  394. 

Mariette,  A.  80.  81.  135 
147   149.  238.  283.  300. 
Markaz  xlvii. 

—  esh-Sharikeh  380. 
Mark  03  388. 

Marriages,  Moslem  xciii. 
Marseilles  1.  2    4-6. 
Ma'sara  167.  170. 
Ma',5aret-Dudeh  193. 
Mashrabiyeh  clxxxv. 
Masbtut  Caual  171. 
Masmas  403. 
Masper'o.  Sir  G.  xlix.  80. 

81.  127.  135.  205. 
Masr  el-'Atika  44. 
el-Fustat'44. 

—  el-Gedideh  119. 

—  el-Kadimeh  44. 
el-Eahira  43. 


Ma.^taba  clxviii. 
Mastabat  el-Fara'on  166. 
Matai  207. 
el-Mata'neb  (Matana)333. 

34 1: 

el-Matanyeh  205. 
Matariyeb   (Heliopolis) 
120. 

—  (Lake  Menzaleh)  174. 
179. 

Matar  Tares  193. 
el-Matra  219. 
Matuga  413. 
Maximinus  cxii. 
Mazalweh  220. 
Mazghuna  205. 
Mazloum  Pacbii  26. 
Measures  ii. 
Mecca  424. 
— ,  Pilgrimage  to 

Ixx.xviii.  xcv. 
Medamut  281. 
Medical  Hints  xxiii. 
Jledik  397. 
Medinet  el-Faiyum  191. 

—  Gurob  194. 

—  Habu  322. 
Medreseh  clxxx. 
Mehalleh  Kebir,  or 

—  el-Kubra  174.  33. 
MehalletDamanal73. 174. 

—  iugak   174. 

—  Kuh  174.  32. 
el-Meharrak  219.  liv. 
Meheridi  39"7. 
Meherik  380. 
Meht-w'esekhet  323. 
Mei,  Tomb  of  216. 
Meida  clxxxi. 
Sleidum,  Pyramid  of  205. 
Mei-her-peri,  Tomb  nf 

297. 
Meir  218. 
Meket-Aton  217. 
el-Mekheirif  421. 
Mekhu.  Tomb  of  359. 
Meks  26. 

Mellawi  210.  231. 
Melton  167. 
Melut  434. 
Mem  402. 
Memnon  cii.  330. 
— ,  Colossi  of  330. 
— ,  So-called  Tomb  of 

288. 
Memnonium  238.  237. 
Memphis  143. 
Mena  House  Hotel  xxii. 

36.  123. 
Menchah  221. 
Mencheres,  see  Mykeri- 

nos. 
el-Menchieh  221. 


INDEX. 


451 


Mendes  172. 

Mendesian   Arm    n(   the 

Nile  185.  Ixvii. 
Mendisheh  379. 
Menes  xcix.  cxxxiii.  143. 
— ,  Tombof  224. 
Menkewre,    see  Mykevi- 

nos. 
Jlen-kheper-re  207. 
BIen-kheper-re-.seneb, 

Tombs  of  311.  313. 
Menne,  Tomb  of  313. 
pl-Menshiyeh  221.  236. 
3Ient-em-het,  Tomb  of 

305. 
?.lentu-lier-khop?lief, 

Tomb  of  (Bibuu  el- 

Muliik)  296. 
Meniu-her-khopshef, 

Tomb   of  (Drah  .Vbu'l 

Negga)  283. 
Mentubotep  (Kings)  c. 

cxxxiii. 

—  III.  276.  304. 

—  III.,  Tomb  of  305. 

—  IV.  304. 
Menuf  33. 
Jlenufiveh,  Province  of 

33.  xivii. 
Meny,  ^ee  Menes. 
Menzaleh  174. 
— ,  Lake  185. 
9Ierenptab,  see  Amen- 

ephthes. 
Merenre  c.  cxxxiii.  16G 
Mcreruka,  Ma,«taba  of  15'J . 
e,l-Merg  121. 
Mergheb  27. 
:>reri-ke-re  234. 
3Ieri-re,  Tombs  of  213. 

214.  _ 
Bleri-re  Pepi,  see  PhiopsL. 
Meris  341. 
Meri-Teti  159. 
Meriyeh  394. 
Meroe  422. 
Meroitic  Writing   cxx.xi 

386. 
Merowe  420. 
Jlersa  Imbarak  377. 
Merwan  II.  cxiv.  206. 
Merwaw  393. 
Mesgid  clxxx. 
Mcsheikh  221. 
el-Meshhed  387. 
Meshra'  er-B,ek  43ii. 
Hctemmeb  i2i. 
Methusuphi8,<e«  Merenre. 
Metir  260. 
JIetu.28l. 
Mevlevis  xcii.  71. 
Mcx  26. 

—  Jonction  27. 


Miebis,  Tomb  of  243. 
Mihaiiditati  xxvi. 
Mibrab  clxxxi. 
Min    cxl.    cxlii.   cli.  civ 

220.  223.  3u7.  325. 
.Miua  el-Kamh   tSl. 
Slinarets'clxxxii.  13.  66 
Minat  el-Wej  377. 
Minbar  clxxxi. 
Minia  (Winieh)  208. 
cl-Minia  193. 
Miniet  el-Heit  193. 

—  Salameii  32. 
el-Minsha  221. 
Minyeh  208. 

— ,    Province    of   208. 

xlvii. 
Mir  218. 
Mir-haniyeb  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Mirgisseh  413. 
Jlirsa  Matruh  29. 

—  Umbarek"377. 
Misbta  219. 

Mi.'r  el-Kabira  43. 
M!t  'Ali'174. 

—  'Assas  174. 

—  Berah  34. 

—  Dafer  174. 

—  Ghamr  174.  171.  173. 
Mitirtaris  193. 

Mil  Rabineh  141 

—  Salsil  174. 

—  Sameniid  172. 

—  Yazid  181. 
Mnevis  Bull  cxli.  121. 
Jloeris,  Lake  196.  190 
Moez  Canal  171. 
:\ioghara  378. 
Mohabbazi  xxvii. 
Mohammed  Ixxxiv. 
Mobammed   Ahmed    (the 

Mahdi)  cxxiv.  xlvi.43a 

431.  433.  434. 
Mohammed  .-Mi  cxx.  .\lvi 

Ixv.  15.  27.  46.  68.  427 
Mohammed  Hey  Abu 

Dahab  cxx.  5S. 

—  el-Ikhshid  cxv. 
-Moharrem  xcv. 
JIoMsat  337. 
Mokattam  Hills  116. 
Mombasa  436. 
Monasir  Arabs  420. 
.•1-Mondid  172. 
Monct-Khufu  227. 
Money  ii.  xiv.  xv.   xvi. 
Mongolia  436. 

— ,  Province  of  415. 
Moniha  349. 
.Monophysites  Iv. 
Mons  Claudiaiius  373. 

—  Porphyrites  373. 


Mont  cxlu.  oli.  254.  277. 

281.  332. 
Montaza  30. 

.Months,  Moslem  xxsix. 
Morgan.  .T.  de  127.   142. 

224   349. 
Morgos  388. 
Moses,  Spring  of  (near 

Cairo)  118. 
— .  Springs  of  (near 

Suez)  189. 
Jlosques  clxxx. 
Motiaa  219. 
Moustapha  Pacha  25. 
Mouth  of  Gebel  435. 
Muaiyad,  El-Mahmndi 

cxviii.  59. 
el-Mu'alla  333. 
Mua'ilet  el-Khargeb  222. 

380. 
Mu'awia  cxiv. 
Mudir  xlvii. 
Mudiriyeh  xlvii. 
Muezzin  Ixxxvii.  clxxxii 
Mufti  Ixxxvi. 
Muissat  337. 
Mu'izz  cxv    44    55. 
Miilid  en-Nebi  xcv. 
Mummies  cxlix. 
Munadi  en-Nil  xcvii. 
Murad  Bev  cxx. 
Murwau  393. 
.Musauwarat  423. 
Musicians,  Arab  xxvi. 
Musmar  426. 
el-Mu8ta'li  cxvi. 
el-Mustansir  cxv. 
.'lut    cxlii.    cxlvi.    cli. 

■J57.  280. 
Mutmir  421. 
Mutrak  es-Selam  374. 
.Mutiil  193. 
Muweis  Canal,  or 
Muwi.s  Canal  171. 
Mykerinos  xcix.  cxxxiii. 

133. 
My 08  Hormos  373. 
Mysticism,  Moslem  xc. 

Nabaroh  174. 
Nadura  380.  381. 
Naga  422. 
Nag'  ed-Deir  221. 

-  Hamadi  222.  244. 

—  e'sh-Shimeh  362. 
Nahiyeh  xlvii. 
Nairobi  436. 
Nakadeh  224.  250. 
Nakhfileh  421. 
Nakht.  Tomb  of  (Beni- 

hasan)  230. 
-,■  Tomb  of  (Sbeikh'Abd 
el-Kurna)  313. 


452 


INDEX. 


L72. 


Napata  419. 
Naoles  1-4.  6. 
Naqada  224. 
Nashart  175. 
en-Nasir  cxvii  45.  70.  76 
Nastesen  38'>. 
Naucratis  32. 
Naville,    Prof.    171. 

180  300. 
Nawa  170. 
Nazali  Ganub  218. 
Neb-Amun ,    Tombs 

283. 
Neb-em-yekhet,  Tomb  of 

138 
Nebesheh  n2 
Neb-lietepti-kbrot,  Touii 

of  167. 
Nebireh  (Npbeirab)  3'J 
Nechesia  377 
Necho  cv.  cxxxvi.  182. 
Uefaret  cvii. 
Nefer-bew-Ptab.Tomb  of 

137. 
Nefer-er-ke-re  142. 
Neferhotep,     Tomb 

314. 
Nefer-ke-re  Pepi,  see 

Phiops  II. 
Nefer-sekheru,  Tomb   of 

209. 
Nefer-.ieshem-re,  Tomb 

of  162. 
Nefertem  cxli.  cxliii.  cli. 
Kefi.sheh  180.  181. 
Kefret-ere  ci. 
i^Tefret-ere  Mi-en-Mut, 

Tomb  of  321. 
■Negroes  Ixi. 
Nebi,  Memorial  Recess  of 

403. 
Neith  cxl.  cxli.  cxlii.  cli 

33.  342. 
■Nekaw,  see  Necho. 
Nekhab  333. 
Nekhbevet  cxl.  cxli. 

cxlv.  cli.  333.  334.  335. 
Nekben  337. 
Nekhte-nebof,  see  Nek- 

tanebos. 
Iv'ekht-Har-ebbet,  see 

Nektanebes. 
Nekht-Min,  Tomb  of  312. 
Nektanebe.'f  evil,  cxx.xvi 


Nerva  ox.  245. 
Nestorius  220. 
Neternakht,  Tomb  of  230. 
New  Dongola  420. 

1-Neweirat  209. 
New  Ileliopolis  119. 
Newport  Reefs  423. 
Newt  254. 
Nezleh-Beled  193. 

Wadi  193. 

Nicopolis  25.  13. 
Nile,  the  Isiv. 
— ,  the  Blue  Ixiv.  427. 
— ,  the  White  Ixiv.  427. 

435. 
— ,  Arms  of  the  Ixvii 

—  Festivals  xcvii. 

— ,  Inundation  of  the  Ixiv. 

—  .Sources  Ixiv.  370. 

—  Steamboats  201.    383. 
417. 

Nilometers  105.  329.  347. 
357.  370. 

Nimule  436. 

Nitocris  323. 

No  (No-Amon)  254. 

— ,  Lake  435. 

Nomes  xcviii. 

Nuba  Mountains,    Pro- 
vince of  416. 

Nubia  384. 

Nubians  Ix.  384. 

Nueirat  209. 

Numbers,  Tomb  of  139 

Nummulites  116. 

Nun  cxlii.  cxlv. 

Nilr  ed-Din  cxvi. 

Nuri  420. 

Nuserre   c.  cxxxiii.  140. 
141. 

Nut  cxlii.  cxliii.  cxlv.  cl. 

Nyavarongo  Ixiv. 

Oases  378.  362.  Ixx. 
Oasis  Junction  222.  380. 
el-Obeid  433. 
Obelisks  clxiii.  121.  140. 

264.  273. 
Octavianus  ex. 
Ofeduineh  (Ott'edunia) 

397. 
Oil  Plants  Ixxiv. 
Okellas  clxxxvi.  50. 
Okka  ii. 
Old  Cairo  106 


171.  175.  277.  381 
Nektanebos  cvii.  cxxxvi. I —  Heliopolis  120 

323.  329.  365.  el-Omaied  29. 

—  II.  147.  Omaiyades  cxiv. 

Nelson  30.  Omar  cxiii.  15. 

Nepherites  cvii.  ()mbos  (Kils)  224. 

Nephthys  cxliii.  cli.  civ.'—  (Gebei  Silsilehl  349 

226.  I'Omdeh  xlvii. 

Nero  ex.  cxxxix.  lOmdurman  430. 


On  (Heliopolis)  cxlv.  120. 
—  (Hermonthis)  332. 
Onias  171. 
Onnophris,  see  Wen- 

nofre. 
Onnos  c.  cxxxiii. 
— ,  Pyramid  of  165. 
Onuris,  see  Rnburet. 
el-Ordeb  420. 
Orion  cxlii. 
Osiris  cxl.  cxliii.  cxlviii. 

cli.   civ.  29.   147.  175. 

2S7.  242.  243.  264.  276. 

280. 

Apis  147. 

lOsmans  xcix. 
iOsorapis  cxlvii.  147. 
Osorkon  I.  civ.  exxxv. 

207.  268. 

•  II.  174. 

■  III.  276. 
Osymandyas  306. 
'Othman  cxiii. 
Othoes,  see  Teti. 
Ous.sime  32. 
Oxyrhynchos  207. 

Pachomius  cxii.  222. 
Painting,  Egyptian 

clxxv. 
Palaces,  Arab  clxxxiii. 
— ,  Egyptian  clxii. 
Palais  de  Koubbeh  120. 
Palm  Columns  clx. 
Palms  Ixxv. 
Panopolis  220. 
Paotnuphis  395. 
Papyrus  Columns  clix. 
Paratonium  29. 
Paser,  Memorial  Niche  of 

410. 
Passports  xv. 
Pathyris  333. 
Pau.sauias  284.  331.  378. 
Peheri  (Pehrai),  Tomb  of 

335. 
Pe-Hor  393. 
Pekhet  cxlvi.  cli.  227. 
Pelusiac  Arm  of  the  Nile 

185.  Ixvii. 
Pelusium  186. 
Pem.ie  207. 

Penehse,  Tomb  of  214. 
Pennet,  Tomb  of  402. 
Pensions  xix. 
Pentaur,  Epic  of  272. 
Pentu,  Tomb  of  214. 
Pepi  I.  &  II.,  see  Phiops. 
Per-Amun  398. 

Atum  180. 

Baste  171. 

ehbet  174.    ' 

hapi-n-On  44. 


INDEX. 


453 


Per-llathor  nebt  Tepveh 

205. 
Peripteros  clxiii. 
Permezet  207. 
I'er-Mont  332. 

—  -Ptah  394. 
Perring  12G 
Per-Selket  395. 
Persians  cvi.  cxiii. 
Per-Sopt  180. 
Pe(r)-zoz  222. 
Peser,  Tomb  of  313. 
Peshetu,  Tomb  of  318. 
Peteamenopet,   Tomb  ot 

305. 
Pete-ese  393. 
Pete-ese.  Tomb  of  166. 
Petesuchos  197. 
Petpeh  203. 
Petrie,  Prof.  Flinders  124. 

J  26.  127.  143.  172.  185. 

193.  194.  196.  205.  207. 

212.  224.  243.  309. 
Petrified  Forests  118.  119. 

139. 
Petroniu.o  38G.  395. 
Phaku.sa  180. 
Pharbrethus  172. 
Pharos,  Island  13.  19. 
Phatnitic  Arm  of  the  Nile 

173.  Ixvii. 
Phbow  222. 
Philadelphia  193. 
Philse  364. 
Philippus  Arrhidoeui* 

cvii.  cxxxvi.  209.  274. 
Philoteris  198. 
I'hiops  I.  c.  cxxxiii.  143. 

166.  337.  387. 

—  II.   c.   cxxxiii.   166. 
Phoenix  csli. 
Photography  xiv. 
Phrases,  Arab  xxsii. 
Physician,   Tomb  of  the 

162. 
Physicians  xxiii. 
Piankhl  civ.  cxxxvi.  144. 

386. 
Piaster  xv. 

Pi-beseth  (Bubastis)  171. 
Piseons  235. 
Pi-lak  (Pilakh)  364. 
Pillars,  Egvptiuu  civil 
Pinotem  I.' civ.  262. 

—  II.  207. 
Pithom  180. 

—  Stele  88. 

Plan  of  Tour  xiii. 
Plantations  Ixxv. 
Plant  Columns  clviii 
Plato  121. 
Plinv'180.  255. 
Plotinus  233.  14. 


Plutarch  207. 
P-neb-tewe  349. 
I'nepherbs  197.  19-i. 
Pococke  126. 
I'olitical  Notice  xlvi. 
I'olyiiamy  Ixxxviii. 
I'ompey  cix.  16. 
Pont  de  Koubbeh  120. 
Popular  Festivals  xcv. 
Population  xlvii. 
Port  Florence  436. 

—  Ibrahim  188. 

—  Sa'id  177. 

—  Sudan  425. 

—  Taufik  188. 
Post,  Egyptian  xix. 
Prayers,  Moslem  lixxvii 
I're-her-wnamf,  Tomb  of 

320. 
I  rim  is  402. 
Prisse  d'Avennes  250. 
Probus  cxi. 
Pronaos  clxiv. 
Proto-Doric  Columns 

clvii. 
I'rovinces  of  E!;ypt  xlvii. 

—  of  the  Sudan  415. 
P.-ammetichos  (Psame- 

lik)  I.  cv.  cxxxvi.  33. 
147.  185. 

—  11.  cv.  Cxxxvi.  386. 

—  III.  cvi. 

Psamtik,  Tomb  of  166. 
Psamuthis    (Psbe  -  Mut) 

cvii.  264. 
Pselchis  395. 
Psoi  221. 

Psusennes  civ.  131. 
Pt:ih    cxl.    cxlii.    csliii. 

oslv.  cl.  clvi.  143.  145. 

237.  277.  394.  404. 

tahhotep,Mastaba  of  163. 
Ptah-nofni  194. 
Ptahshepses,  Jlastaba  of 

142. 
Ptah-Soker,  see  Soker. 

Tenen  clii. 

Ptolemais  Hermiou   221. 
Ptolemv  I.   Soter  I.  cvii. 

cxxxvi.  12.  2U7.  221. 
II.  Philadelphus  cvii. 

cxxxvi    175.   192.   280.  | 

366.  377. 

—  III.  Euep'-'etes  I.  cviii.] 
cxxxvii.  262.  344.  355. 
366. 

IV.  Philopator  cviii. 
cxxxvii.  278.  316.  344. 
355.  366. 

—  V.  Epiphanes  cviii. 
cxxvi.  cxxxvii.  256. 
36G. 

VI.  Pliilornetor  cviii. 


cxxxvii.   171.  236.  268. 
316.  344.  370.  387. 
Ptolemy  VII. Eupator  cix. 

—  VIII.  cix. 

—  IX.  Euergetes  II. 
Physkun  cviii.  cxxxvii. 
264.  26S.  31G.  330.  335. 
314.  348.  370.  395. 

—  X.  Soter  II.  Latbvrus 
cix.  c.vx.xviii.  329.335. 
341.  348. 

—  XI.  Alexander  I.  cix. 
344. 

—  XII.  Alexander  II.  cix. 

—  XIII.  Keos  Dionysos 
cix.  264.  349. 

—  XIV.  cix.  12. 

—  XV.  cix. 

—  XVI.  Cffisar  cix. 
Punt  (Pwenet)   223.  301. 
Pylon.s  clxiii. 
Pvopi-nakht,  Tomb  of 

360. 
Pyramid,  the  Great  127. 
,  the  Second  131. 
,  the  Third  133. 
of  Hawara  194. 

—  of  illahun  195 

—  of  EI-Kula  313. 

—  of  Meidum  205. 

—  of  Jlerenre  166. 

—  of  Nebka  140. 

—  of  Nuserre  141. 

—  of  Onnos  165. 

—  of  Phiops  I.  166. 

—  of  Phiops  II.  166. 

—  of  Righa_140 

—  of  Sehure  141. 

—  of  Teti  163. 
Pyramids,     Construction 

"  01  the  clxis.  124. 

—  of  Abu  Roash  139. 

—  of  Abusir  141. 

—  of  Dahshiir  166. 

—  of  Gebel  Barkal  419. 

—  of  Gizeh  123. 
of  El-Kurru  420. 
of  Lisht  205 
of  Meroe  422. 
of  Napata  420. 

—  of  Nuri  420. 

—  of  Tangassi  420. 

—  of  Zawivet  el-'Arvan 
140. 

—  of  Ziima  420. 

ft.  For  place-names  be- 
ginning with  this  letter, 
see  also  under  K. 

Qerslia  39  i. 

t^ift  223. 

Queen.i,  Tomb.<  of  the319. 

Q.Hibelll46.  It 3.  334.  337. 


454 


INDEX. 


Ka,  see  Re. 
KagdiyeU  174. 
Rahbein  174. 
Rahmaniyeh  32. 
Railways  xvii. 
Rain  Ixxvii. 
er-Raisiyeb  244. 
Rakabeh  352. 
Ramadan  xcvi. 
Ramesse,  lee  Rampe.s. 
Ramesseam  30'i. 
Ramleh  26. 
Ramose,   Toinl)   of  (Tell 

el-'Amarna)  216. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Sheikh  'Abd 

el-Kurna)  315. 
Ramses  I.  ciii.  cxxxiv. 

243.  268.  282. 

—  I.,  Tomb  of  291. 

—  II.  ciii.  cxxxiv.  121 
171.  172.  185.  192.  206. 
209.221.238.  2i3.  2.57ct 
.seq.  264.  269.  270.  272. 
276.  282.  306.  334.  340. 
391.  393.  400.  404.  411. 

—  II.,  Colossi  of  144.25'!. 
259.  306.  404.  409. 

—  II.,  Tomb  of  287. 

—  III.  ciii.  cxxxv.  171. 
208.  262.  267.  2St.  322 
et  seq.  340. 

—  III.,  Tombsof2S9.286. 

—  IV.  civ.  cxxxv.  262. 
375. 

—  IV.,  Tomb  of  285. 

—  V.  cxxxv.  288. 

—  VI.  cxxxv. 

—  VI.,  Tomb  of  288. 

—  VII.  cxxxv. 

—  VIII.  cxxxv. 

—  IX.  cxxxv. 

—  IX.,  Tomb  of  286. 

—  X.  cxxxv. 

—  X.,  Tomb  of  285. 

—  XI.  cxxxv. 

—  XL,  Tomb  of  296. 

—  XII.  civ.  cxxxv.  262. 

—  XII.,  Tomb  of  286. 
Ras  el-Bahr  177. 

—  el-'Eish  179.  185. 

—  el-Hamrayeh  318. 
Rashid  (Rosetta)  30. 
Ras  el-Khalig  175. 

—  Slohamnied  424 
er-Raswa  (Rassovia)   185. 
Ras  Za'feraneh  423. 
Rayah  el-3Ienuiiyeh  122. 
— _et-Taufiki  122. 

Re  cxlii.  cxlv.  ciii. 
Red  Convent  220. 
Redesiyeh  (El-Redesia) 

348. 
Red  Sea  424. 


Red  Sea  Province  415. 
Reedy    Soa,   the  Biblical 

189. 
Re-Harakhte,  see  Ha- 

rakhte. 
Rehenu  Valley  374. 
Rehoboam  272. 
Reisner  133.  221. 
Rejaf  436. 

Rekhmere,  Tomb  of  310. 
Rekkah  205. 

Reliefs,  Egyptian  clxxiv. 
Religion,  Egyptian  cxl. 
— ,   Mohammedan    Ixxix. 
Religions  Festivals, 

Mohammedan  xcv. 

—  Orders,  Mohammedan 
xci. 

Remushenti,Tomb  of  230. 

Reni,  Tomb  of  33G. 

Renk  434. 

el-Re7(?kat  332, 

IJhakotis  12.  13. 

Ri'a  375. 

Ri'at  el-GhazfU  375. 

—  cl-Hamra  376. 

—  el-Kbeil  376. 
riifiViyeli  xci. 

Righa,  Pvramid  of  140. 
er-Rikiyeh  343. 
Rikka  (El-Riqqa)  205. 
el-Riqa  399. 

Rizakilt  (El-Ri  zeiqat)  332. 
Robatab  Arabs  420. 
Rock  Tombs   clxx.  208. 

210.  212.  219.  221.  222. 

227.  284.  305.  309.  335. 

358. 
Roda  (Upper  Egypt)  209. 

231. 
— ,  Island  of  105. 
er-Roda  (Faiyiim)  193. 
Rod  el-Fara';  78. 
Uodsieh  348, 
Romans  ex. 
Roseires  432. 
Kosetta  (Rashid)  30.  177. 

—  Stone  cx.xvi.  31. 
Rotl  ii. 
Ronessate  29. 
Rub'a  ii. 
er-Rubiyat  193. 
Ruei.sat  29. 
Rumbek  435. 
RiiFsaa  185. 

Sabagvira  394. 
Sabaieh  333. 
Sabakh  Ixxi. 
Sabakon,  see  Shabako. 
Sdba  Pacha  26. 
Sabni,  Tomb  of  359. 
Sadd  435. 


Sadi  Canal  172. 

Sa'diyeh  Dervisliej  xcii. 

Safety,  Public  xx. 

cs-Safl"  225. 

Saft  el-Hiueh  180. 

—  el-Meluk  32. 

sa  el-ITagar  fSaVs)  33.  32. 

Sahol  '236. 

Sahn  clxxx. 

Sahragt  173.  171. 

es-Sa'^Jd  xlvii. 

Sa'id  Pasha  cxxii.  31.  69. 

Sailing  Boats  204.  417. 

St.  Anthony,  Convent  of 

206.  liv. 
St.  Georges  106.  167. 
St.  Jeremiah,  Ccmvent  of 

146. 
St.  Mark  14. 
St.  Menas,  City  of  28. 
St.  Paul,  Convent  of  20fi. 

liv. 
St.  Simeon,   Convent    of 

361. 
SS.  Manaos  and  Sanutios, 

Convent  of  843. 
Saints,  Tombs  of  Moslem 

xc.  clxxxiii. 
Sais  (Sa  el-Hagar)  33.  32. 
Sakeit'_377.  ' 
Sake-re  213. 
Sakha  33. 
Sakiyeh  Ixxii.  427. 
Sa&kara  145. 

Apis  Tombs  147. 

Convent  of  St.  Jeremiah 
146. 

Mariette's  House  147. 

Jlaskiba  (Tomb)  of  Ke- 
gem-ni  162. 

—  of  Mereruka  159. 

—  of  Ptahhotep  163. 

—  of  Ti  149. 
Mastabat  el-Fara'6n 

166. 
Persian  Shaft  Tombs 

166. 
Pyramid  of  Merenre 

166. 

—  of  Onnos  165. 

—  of  Phiops  I.  166. 

—  of  Phiops  II.  166. 

—  of  Teti  163. 
Serapeum  147. 
Step  Pyramid  146. 
Street  of  Tombs  162. 
Tomb  of  the  Physician 

lb2. 
Sakkara,  Tabletlof  87. 
Saladin  (Salah  ed-Din) 
cxvi.  45".  68;  70.;  116. 
Salamlik  clxxxiii. 
Salih,  Sultan  cxviii.  45. 


INDEX. 


455 


es-SalUi  Aiyub  oxvii. 
es-Salihiych  (El-Salhia) 

1^2.  ■ 
Sallom  Janction  425. 
Samalut  208. 
Samanud  174. 
Samata  222. 
Sarnhfld  222. 
Sammut  3T7. 
es-Sanaui  ^193. 
es-Sanamat  330. 
Sandafa  207. 
San  el-IIagar  (Tani.sj  172. 
Sanhour  (Faiyum)  193. 
Sanhur  (near  Damanhur) 

32. 
Sanhur  (Faiviim)  193. 
Sanoures  192. 
San  Stefano  26. 
Santah  174. 
.•^ara  411. 

Sarapii!.  fee  Serapis. 
es-Saririyeh  226. 
Sarras  413. 
.Sarreh  411. 
Satet  (Salis)  clii.  342. 
Sauw  375. 
Sawakin  425. 
Sawarkeh  Beduins  Iviii. 
Sayaleh  397. 
.Scarabaei   cxlv.   clxxvii. 
Schsefer  140. 
Schedia  31. 
SchiaparelH  319. 
Schools.  Arab  49. 
Schutz  26. 
Schweint'iirth,    Prof.    42. 

168.170.192.197.263.372. 
Scott-Moncrieff,  Sir  C.  122. 
Sculpture,  Egyptian 

clxxi. 
Season  xiii. 

Sebek-hotep  ci.  cxx.xiii. 
Sebek-nofru  ci. 
Sebennytic   Arm    of   the 

Kile  31.  Isvii. 
Sebennytos  174. 
Sebichos  cv. 
Sebil  clxxxii. 
es-Sebu'a  398. 
Second  Mariout  28. 
Sects,  Mohammedan  xcii. 
Sedfa  219. 

Sedment  el-Gebel  206. 
Seffer  26. 
Seheil_363. 
Sehure  c.   141. 
Seileh  191. 
Seiyid  Ahmed  el-Bedawi 

xcii.  33. 
Seiyideh  Zeinab  xcvi.  74. 
Seiyid  \  Ibrahim    ed  -  De- 

suki  xcii.  32. 


Sekenyenre   111.    ci. 

cxxxiv. 
Sekhmet  cxl.  cxlii.  cxliii. 

cxlvi.  clii.  clvi. 
.Selim  1.  cxix.  45.  61. 120. 

355. 
es-Seliyin  193. 
Selket  clii. 
Selwah  337.  348. 
Semneh  413. 
■Senaro  (Senarou)  19G. 
Senhur  193. 

SenkariDakhlaniyeh  398. 
Senmet  370. 

Senmose,   Tomb  of  360. 
Senmut,  Tomb  of  313. 
Sennar  432. 
— ,  Province  of  415.  'i32. 

xlvi. 
Sennofer,   Tomb   of  310. 
Senmitem,  Tomb  of  318. 
Senru  196.  192. 
.Scnures  192.  193. 
Senwosret,  see  Sesostri,^. 
Scptimius  Sevems  cxi. 

cxxxix.  14. 
Serai  Kubbeh  120. 
Serapeiim  (at  Alexandria^ 

14.  16. 

—  flsthmns  of  Suez)  186. 

—  (at  Sakkara)  147. 
Serapis    cxlvii.   clii.    11 

30.  147.  397. 
Serdab  clxviii. 
el-Seririeh  226. 
Serpent  Mountain,  Nome 

of  the  219. 
Seshet  cxlvi.  clii.  clvi. 
Sesonchis,  tee  Shoshenk. 
Sesostris  I.  c.  cxxxiii. 

121.  193.  205. 

—  II.  ci.  cxxxiii.  195. 196. 

—  III.    ci.    cxxxiii.    166. 
385.  413. 

Setaw,Memorial  Recesses 

of  403.  411. 
— ,  Tomb  of  336. 
Setekh,  see  Seth. 
Seth  cxliii.  cxlv.  clii.  44. 

172.  224.  236.  250.  343. 
her-khopshef.    Tomb 

of  320. 

nakht  ciii.  289.  291. 

Sethosl.  ciii.  cxxxiv.  16. 

227.  238.  257.  270.  279. 

282.  376.  403. 

—  I.,  Tomb  of  292. 

—  II.  ciii.  cxxxv.  264. 
266. 

—  II.,  Tomb  of  291. 
Sethy,  tee  Sethos. 
Seti  385. 
Seton-Karr,  I.t.  207. 


Seyala  397. 

Shabako  cv.  cxxxv.  259. 

277.  329. 
Sha'ban.  Sultan  45. 
Shabataka  cv. 
Shabbas  32. 
Shabluka  Cataract  423. 
Shadow  Play.s  xxvii.  42. 
Shaduf  Ixxii. 
Shadwan  424. 
esh-Shafi'i  Ixx.vvi.  115. 
.Shaiyites  Ixxxvi. 
Shaft  Tombs,  Persian 

166. 
Shaghb  (Shaghab)  333. 
esh-Shaghbeh  235. 
esh-Sha'iniveh  244. 
Shalakan  122. 
Shalfak  413. 
esh-Shalliifeh  187. 
Sbambe  435. 
Shandid  32. 
Shar'  Ixxxvi. 
Sharaki  Fields  l.\xii. 
Sharkawiyeh  Canal  34. 
Sharkiyeli.   Province   of 

xlvii.  171. 
Sharuna  207.  226. 
Shataui  410. 
Shatbi  25. 

Shatt  er-Rigaleh  338. 
Shaturmeh  (Shatorma) 

398. 
Shauvi^al  xcvi. 
Shaw,  Nich.  126. 
Shawashneh  197.  193. 
Shaweh  173. 
Shawer  cxvi. 
el-Shebbak  403. 
Sheblengeh  181. 
Sheikh  'Abadeh  209. 

—  "^Abd  el-Knrna  309. 

—  Abu  Nur  193. 
el-Beled  xlvii. 

esh-Sheikh  Fadl  226. 
Sheikh  Hasan  193. 

—  Ti'1-Isiam  Ixxxvi. 
Musa  236. 
Rekab  373. 
Sa'id  231. 

—  Tombs  xc.  clxxxii. 
Sheikiyeh  Arabs  420. 

hellal  363. 

hendawin  219.  236. 
Shendi  422. 
Shenbur  250. 
Shepenupet  (daushter  of 
PiaiikhiJ  278.  323. 

—  (daughter  of  Takelo- 
this  111.)  276. 

Shepses-kef-onekh, 

Tomb  of  137. 
Shereik  421. 


456 


INDEX, 


Sheri'a  Ixxxvi. 
Sheshonk,  see  ShoshenU. 
Shes-hotcp  '235. 
Shetawi  410. 
Shetet  192.  191.  195. 
Shetu,  Tomb  of  207. 
Shibbak  403. 
.Shibin  el-K;iniltii-  170. 
120. 

—  el-Kom  33. 
ShiblaDga  181. 
Shidmo  193. 
esh-Shigeig  893. 
Shiites  xcii. 
■Shikelkil  232. 
Sliiliuk  Negroes  434. 
Shin  32.  33.  174. 
Shinnawiyeh  Dervishes 

xcii. 
Sliirbin  175. 
Shirkiih  cxvi. 
Shishak,  see  Shoshenk. 
Shisheh  xxvi. 
Shmin  220. 
Shmun  209. 
Shooting  417. 
Shoshenk  I.  civ.  cxxxv. 

207.  272. 
Shotb  234. 
Show  cxlii.  t'.Kliil.  cxlv. 

clii. 
Shua  173. 
Shu''ara  xxvi. 
Shubra  7S.  121. 
Shubrakhit  32. 
Shflnet  ez-Zebib  243. 
Shuroi.  Tomb  of  283. 
Siala  191. 
es-Siba'yeh  (El-Sibaia) 

333.  343. 
Siboo  398. 
Sid fa  219. 
Sidi  Berani  29. 

—  Gaber  25.  30. 

—  el-Haggag  29. 

—  Salem  33. 
Siheil  363. 
Sikait  377. 
Sikket  Bender  377. 
Silko  390.'  ■' 
Silsilehv338. 
Silweh  337.  348. 
Sinaru  196. 
Sinbelawin  fSimbella- 

ouein)  172. 
Singa  432. 
el-Singari-El-Dakhlania 

898. 
Singers.  Female  xxvii. 
Sinkat  426. 
Siptah  ciii.  309. 
— ,  Tomb  of  298. 
es-Sirag  348.  337. 


Sirdars  Island  368. 
Si-renpowet ,    Tomb.s    of 

359.  360. 
Sistrum  Columns  clxi. 
Sitre,  Tomb  of  320. 
Sitteh  Gasma  389. 
Siut,  see  Assiut. 
Siweh,   Oasis  'of  378. 

xlvii. 
Slavery  Ixi. 
Sloane  144. 

Smith,  Sir  Ch.  H.  412. 
Smithis,  see  Nekhbcyet. 
Snake  Charmers  xxvii. 
Sne  342. 
Snofru  xcix.  cxxxiii.  166 

205. 
Soba  433. 

Sobat,  the  Ixiv.  485. 
Sobek    cxl.    cxli.    cxlIi. 

cxlvi.    clii.    clvi.    192. 

196.  198.  349. 
■Sohag  219.  236. 
Sohagiyeh  Canal  221. 
Soil,    Capabilities  of  th 

Ixx. 
Soker  clii.  242.  32G. 
Soknopaios  196. 
Soknopaiou  Nesos  106. 
Soldiers'  Tomb  234. 
Solium  29. 
Sonbat  174. 
Songs,  Arab  xxvii. 
Sonta  174. 
Sotliis  cxlii. 
Souhag,  see  Sohag. 
Speos  Artemidos  227. 
Sphinx,  the  Great  (Gizeh) 

135. 
— ,  the  (Memphis)  144. 

—  Avenues    clxvii.    147 
261.262.264.230.300.398. 

Spices  Ixxiv. 

Sport  417. 

Statues,  Egyptian  clxxii. 

Steamboats  1-6.  201.  383. 

417. 
Stephanus  of  Byzantium 

255. 
Step  Pyramid  clxix.  146 
Stewart,  Col.  cxxiv.  4'20. 
Stimulants  Ixxiv. 
Story-Tellers  xxvi. 
Strabo   ex.    13.  121.  170. 

180.  190.  191.  195.  205. 

220.  221.  237.  255.  256. 

284.  331.  357.  363. 
Students,  Moslem  55. 
Suakin  425. 
Suan  354. 
Suchos,  see  Sobek. 
.'^udan  415.  xlvi. 

—  Negroes  Ixi. 


Sudd  436.  Ixiv. 

Suez  187. 

— ,  Isthmus  of  182.  Ixviii. 

—  Canal  182. 
Sufi  198. 

Sugar  Cane  Ixxiv.  Ixx. 
Summer  Crops  Ixxiii. 
Summit  426. 
Sun,  Cult  of  the  cxliv. 

cxlvi.  120. 140. 211. 422. 
— ,  Winged  cl.  clvi. 
Sunna  Ixxxv. 
Sunt  Tree  Ixxv. 
Sureh  Ixxxix.  Ixxxvii. 
Suti,  Tomb  of  216. 
Sweis  188. 
Swenet  354. 

Sycamore  Nome  218.  233. 
Syene  354. 

Symbolic  Signs   clxxvii. 
Syout  233. 
Syrians  Ixi. 
Syringes  284. 

Tabennese  222. 
Tabut  Ixxii. 
Tachos  cvii. 
Tateh  383. 
Tahapanhes  185. 
Taharka  cv.  cxxxvi.  2B6. 

277.  280.  329.  419. 
Tahta  219.  23t). 
Taka  xlvi. 
Takelothis  I.  civ.  cxxxv. 

—  II.  268. 

—  m.  276. 
Takhtabosh  clxxxiv. 
et-Talibiyeh  123. 
fal'kha  175.  174. 
talmis  389. 

Tamai  cxxiv. 

Tamiyeh  (Tamia)  193. 

Tammuh  148. 

tangassi  420. 

Tanis  172. 

Tanites  civ. 

Tanitic  Arm  of  the  Nile 

171.  185.  Ixvii. 
Tannur  clxxxi. 
Tanta  83.  174. 
Tanutamun  cv.  280. 
Taphis  338. 
Taposiris  Magna  29. 

—  Parva  30. 
etTarh  30. 

Tarik  ed-Dahrawi  376. 
Tarkibeh  clxxxiii. 
Taufik  cxxiii.  46.  114. 
Tauflkia  (Sudan)  436. 
Taufikiyeb  (Delta)  33. 
Tayiba  432. 
Tbot  343. 
et-Teb  cxxiv. 


INDEX. 


457 


Tebehne,  Tomb  of  138. 
Tebhar  193. 
Tebtynis  193. 
Teephibjs  330. 
Tefnakhte  civ. 
Tefnut  cxlii.  cxliii.  clii. 
Tef-yeb,  Tomb  of  2.S4. 
Tehaphnebes  185. 
Teh  el-Barud  32. 
Tehna  el-Gebel  20S. 
Tehor  cvii. 
Teifeh  388. 
Teiriyeh  32. 
Telegraphs  xx. 
Telephones  xx. 
Tell  Aba  Seifeh  185. 

—  el-'Amarna  211. 

—  Basta   (Bnbastis)  171. 

—  Defenneh  185. 

—  el-Fadda  186. 

—  Farama  186. 

—  ibn  es-Salam  172. 

—  el-Kasr  172. 

—  el-ke'bir  131. 

—  el-Maskhuta  180. 

—  Jlokdam  174. 

—  Eoba  172. 

—  el-Yehudivch  171. 
Tema  219. 

Temperature  Ixivii. 
Temple.s  clxii. 
Tenis  208. 
Tenkaleh  402. 
Tennis  185. 
Tent-Karu,  Tomb  of  298. 

Pole  Column  clxi. 

Tentvra  245. 
Tep-'yeh  205. 
Terabiyin  Bednins  Iviii. 
Te-she  180. 
Te-snet  342. 
Tet  cli. 

Tetf-re  xcix.  139. 
Teti  c.  cxxxiii.  163. 
Tetnn  cJii.  3'^.  414. 
Tewfik,  ue  Taufik. 
Tewosret  309. 
— ,  Tomb  of  291. 
Teye  cii.  191. 
— ,  Tomb  of  298. 
Thamiam  426. 
Theadelphia  198. 
Thebes  254. 
Theodosius  I.    the  Great 

cxii.  14.  16. 

—  II.  cxii. 
TheophiJus  cxii.   15. 
This  221. 
Thmnis    (Lower   Egypt) 

172. 

—  (Upper  Egypt)  348. 
Thout  (Thoth)  cxl.  cxii 

cxlii. clii. clvi. 209.410 


Thout  of  Puubs  395. 
Thuti,  Tomb  of  (Drah 

Ahul  Ne-ga)  283. 
— ,  Tomb  of  (Kom  el- 
Ahmar)  337. 
,  Tomb  of  (Sheikh  'Abd 
el-Kurnal  316. 
-hotep,  Tomb  of  210. 
Thutmosis  (Thntmose)  I. 
cii.  cxxxiv.  2B5.  273. 
I.,  Tomb  of  297. 
II.  cii.  cxxxiv.  273. 
II.,  Tomb  of  298. 

—  III.  cii.  cxxxiv.  19i. 
227.259.273etseq.303. 
309.  328.  337.  399.  412. 
413.  414. 

—  III.,  Tomb  of  296. 

—  IV.  cii.  cxxxiv.  135. 
309.  399. 

—  IV.,  Tomb  of  298. 
Ti,  Mastaba  of  149. 
Tiberius  ex.  cxxxviii. 
et-Till  211. 
Time-en-Hor  31. 
Timsah,  Lake  186. 
Tine  221. 
Tineh  179. 
Tireh  174. 

Tirhakah,  see  Taharka. 
Titi,  Tomb  of  320. 
Titus  ex. 

Tiyaha  Beduins  Iviii. 
Tkow  235. 

Tmei  el-Amdid  172.  174, 
Tobacco xvii.  xxvi.lsxiv, 
Tod  (near  Damanhur)  32, 
el-Tod  (near  Erment)  332. 
Toeris  clii. 
Tomas  401. 

Tombs,  Arabian  clxxxii 
— ,  Egyptian  elxvii. 
Tonga  435. 
Tor  424.  377. 
Toreiya  clxxxi. 
Tosbkeh  403. 
Toski  403. 
Tuukb  224. 
Tourist  Parties  xiv. 

—  Steamers  201.  384. 
Trajan   ex.  cxxxix.  14. 

182.  245.  2.50.  358. 
Trees  Ixxv. 
Tree-Trunk  Column 

clviii. 
Tribunal.^  xx. 
Trieste  5.  6. 
T-sent-nofret  349. 
Tubhar  193. 
ef-Tud  332. 
Tu'e,  Tomb  of  29S. 
Tukh  Delta)  34. 

—  (near  Kus)  224. 


Tu-Kow  235. 

Tulunides  cxiv. 

Tuman  Bey  cxix.  45.  61. 

i'umas  401. 

Tuneh  el-(Jebel  209. 

Tunqala  402. 

Tuphium  332. 

Tur  424.  377. 

Tura  167.  170. 

Turanshah  cxvii.  173. 

Turba  clxxxi. 

Turbans  46. 

Turbet  el-Kurud  29?. 

Turks  Ixi.  "exx. 

Tusun  186. 

—  Pasha  cxxi. 
Tut-enkh-Amun  cii.  257. 

260.  274. 
Tuti,  Island  428. 
Tutu,  Tomb  of  215. 
Twe-metf  clii. 
Twet  cxliv.  cxiviii.  284. 
Tytihon,  see  Setb. 
Typhonia  250. 
Tzitzi  388. 

TJaphris,  see  Apries. 

LTganda  436. 

ykiya  ii. 

Ulad  'Ali  Beduins  Iviii. 

—  'Ilwan  xcii. 

—  iSuh  xcii. 
Ulama  Ixxxvi.  47. 
Umm  el-'Aish  29. 

—  ^Ali  421. 

—  el-Atl  197. 

—  Dikal  373. 
Ummebeida  379. 
Umm  el-Ga'ab  243. 

—  Garavat  397. 

—  Hebal  3G2. 

—  Rus  377. 
es-Sughair  378. 

Underworld  cxiviii.  284. 

Unis,  see  Onnos. 

Upper  Nile  Province  415. 

Ups  370. 

Urseus  Snake  e.xliv. 

clxxvii. 
Urbi  420. 
Uronarti  413. 
Usaphai's,  Tomb  of  2-13. 
Userhet,  Tomb  of  (Btbiiii 

el-Muluk)  298. 
— ,  Tombs  of  (Sheikli 

'Abd  el-Knrna)  315. 
Ushebtis  cxiviii. 
Usim  32. 
Uze-he-Teti,Tombofl62, 

Valerian  cxi.  14. 
Vegetables  Ixxiv. 
Vegetation  of  Egypt  Ixx. 


458 


INDEX. 


Vegetation  of  the  Sudan 

427. 
Venice  4. 
Varus  23C. 

Vespasian  ex.  cxxxix.  14 
Victoria  College  26. 

—  Nyanza  436.  Ixiv. 
Vine,  Culture  of  Ixxvi. 
Virgin's  Tree  120. 
Vocabulary,  Arabic  xxxii 
Vyse,  H.  126. 

Wad  Bennaga  422. 
Wadelai  436. 
Wadfa  198. 
Wadi  Abu  Agiig  362. 

—  Abyad  377. 

—  Allaki  397. 

—  Ambagi  375. 

—  Ammerikbeh  376. 

—  Amrugum  377. 

—  el-' Arab  (valley)  362. 
(village)  397. 

—  Arud  362. 

—  Awateib  422. 

—  Baramram  362. 

—  Beida  375. 

—  Beizah  377. 

—  el-Bersheh  210. 

—  Digla  118. 

—  Dimhid  (Dehmit)  362, 

—  Duera  362. 

—  Fatireh  373. 

—  Gasus  375. 

—  Gemal  377. 

—  Gerraui  170. 

—  Ghazal  (Arabian 
Desert)  375. 

(near  JJIerowe)  420. 

—  Haifa  411. 

—  Hammamat  374.  223. 

—  el-Hasir  377. 

—  Higelig  377. 

—  Hof  170. 

—  el-Homr  376. 

—  Homuda  376. 

—  el-Hudi  362. 

—  Kabr  el-Khadim  375. 

—  el-Kash  376. 

—  Kattar  373. 

—  :feeneh  373. 

—  l&hawanib  397. 

—  Lahemi  377. 

—  Letheileh  378. 

—  Maghlat  376. 

—  Miah  376. 

—  Moeiheh  377. 

—  en-Nakhleh  210. 


Wadi  Natrun  32.  29. 

—  Nur  376. 

—  Rami  378. 

—  Bayan  193. 

—  Risheid  170. 

—  Rosafa  375. 

—  Rumit  377. 

—  Sakeit  377. 

—  esh-Sheikh  207, 

—  es-Sofra  423. 

—  et-iih  118. 

—  Tumilat  180. 

—  Umbarek  377. 

—  Umm  Hebal  362. 
Wadiyein  285. 
Wad  Medani  432. 
Waghorn,  Lt.  183.  188. 
Wahabis  xci. 

Wah  el-Behnesa  379. 
Waked  32. 

el-Waladiveh    (Walidia) 

232. 
Wall  Paintings  clxxi. 
Wardan  32. 
Wardian  26.  27. 
el-Waresab  352. 
el-Wasta  (near  As.siut) 

235.  ' 

—  (near  Benisueif)  206. 
225.  191. 

Water  Carriers  48. 

—  Pipes  xxvi. 

—  Wheels  Ixxii. 
Wau  435. 
Weather  Ixxvi. 
Weddings,  Moslem  xciii. 
el-Wedj  377. 

Wefa  en-Nil  xovii. 
Weh-eb-re,  see  Apries. 
Weibeh  ii. 
Weights  ii. 
Wen-nofre  clii. 
Wep-wawet  cxl.  clii.  233. 
Wer-khewew,    Tomb  of 

138. 
Wert-hekew  clii. 
Weset  25^. 
Wewet  385. 
Wezmose  309. 
White  Convent  220. 

—  mie,  the  Ixiv.  427. 43.5. 

—  —  Province  415. 
Wilkinson,  Sir  G.  126. 
Willcocks,    Sir  W.    232. 

372. 
Wilson,  Sir  Chas.  cxxv. 
Winds  Ixxviii. 


Wingate,  Sir  R   415. 
Winter  Cultivation 

Ixxiii. 
Wolseley,    Gen.    cxxiv. 

420.  422. 
Women.  Oriental 

Ixxxviii.  47. 
Wto  (Bulo)  clii. 

Xerxes  I.  cvi.  c.vxxvi. 
Xois  ci. 

Yanbo  el-Bahr  377. 
el-Yasiniyeh  244. 
Year,  Arabian  xcv. 
Yebu  354. 
Yefu-Ile  clii. 
Yemet  172. 

Yenuam,  Battle  of  270. 
Young,  Thos.  cxxvi. 
Yu'e,  Tomb  of  298. 

Zabu  379. 
Zagazig  171. 
ez-Zahir  cxv. 
Ziikazik  171.  173.  181. 
Zan  172. 
Zanet  172. 
Zankalun  181. 
Zarar  397. 
Zarkun  32. 
Zauti,  Tomb  of  222. 
Zaw,  Tomb  of  219. 
Zavpiyeh  olxxxi. 
Zawivet  Abu  Musallim 
140: 

—  el-Amwat  208. 

—  el-''Aryan  140. 

—  el-31eitin  208. 
Zeb-nuter  174. 

Zeflfet  el-Hammam  xciii. 
Zeidab  42i. 

Zenen,  Tombs  of  312.  313. 
Zenhebu,  Tomb  of  166. 
Zeno  cxiii. 
Zenobia  cxi. 
Zephirium  29. 
Zer,  Tomb  of  243. 
Zeraf  Mouth  435. 

—  New  Cut  435. 
Zerar  397._ 
Zeser-ke-re-seueb,  Tomb 

of  313. 
Zifteh  174. 
Zikrs  xci. 
Zizinia  26. 
Zoan  172. 
Zoser  xcix.  146. 
Zuma  420. 


PaiNTBD    IN  GaKMANX   BT    EkEITKOFP   &.   H.«ETEL,    LEIFZIG. 


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