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THE LIBRARIES

Bequest of

Frederic Bancroft
1860 - 1945

GENERAL LIBRARY

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

y^ £y. y4::^^^a^<f^^y^'.

rOGRAPh

MINIATURE PAIxXTED FROM PHOTOGRAPH

MADE IN MILAN IN 1870

EIGHT JOURNEYS
ABROAD

LETTERS OF

MRS. FRANK H. ROSENGARTEN

(nee MARY D. Richardson)

WRITTEN IN

1869, 1870, 1892, 1897, 1900, 1903, 1906, I9IO

WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

'^<^^3*^-:

PHILADELPHIA

PRINTED

FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION

BY J. B

. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

1917

COPYRIGin, 191 7, BV FRANK H. ROSENGARIEN

J- 2 ?^ / ^'

UJ
Q

DEDICATION

AS A MEMORIAL OF HER WONDERFUL TALENTS AND
UNCEASING INDUSTRY, THESE LETTERS ARE PUB-
LISHED AND DEDICATED TO THE SONS, RELATIVES
-) AND SUCH FRIENDS AS REMEMBER THE WRITER IN LIFE

PREFACE

The writer of the accompanying letters, Mary D. Rosen-
garten, was born in 1846 at Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, daughter
of James and Laura Chfford Richardson. In 1857, Mr. and
Mrs, Richardson removed to St. Louis, Missouri, and it was in
that city their daughter received her early education, grad-
uating from the high school at the head of her class, in 1862.

After her graduation in St. Louis she entered the home
of President Sanborn of Dartmouth College at Hanover,
New Hampshire, and under his supervision studied English
literature.

Later, in 1863, she entered a school in Brooklyn, N. Y., on
Brooklyn Heights, and applied herself to the study of vocal and
instrumental music.

The following years she studied vocal and instrumental
music and became a most accomplished singer, having a mezzo-
soprano voice.

Her intense desire for culture induced unceasing efforts in
all branches. Her study of music, and French, Italian and,
English literature never wavered, even during her long years
of married life and motherhood. Her appreciation of the
artistic and beautiful was a strongly marked characteristic.
Her kindness of heart, generous disposition and quiet charity
made her beloved by the many who knew her.

In the winter of 1863, instead of journeying to her home in
St. Louis, she spent the Christmas holidays at the home of
the father of her future husband at 1532 Chestnut Street,
Philadelphia.

Her visit there began a friendship that never wavered and
resulted in her subsequent engagement and marriage in 1873,
ten years after her first visit to Philadelphia, followed by over
forty years of intensest mutual love. From 1864 to 1869, she
lived at her father's home, 2827 Locust Street, St. Louis, from

PRKI'ACE

lime to time making journeys in the United States, until in
1869 she was enabled to fullill her ideals for European travel
and musical culture.

She left New York on the 30th of October, 1869, accom-
panied by her father, journeyed to Italy and settled in Milan
to study singing under the celebrated Maestro Lamperti.

At first she studied singing under the A^Iaestro Corsi, taking
three lessons a week, but wrote home objecting, "He will not
let me practice more than two hours a day!"

Later she concluded her studies under Lamperti, among
whose pupils was the great tenor Campanini, who created in
his later career the intensest enthusiasm and with Christine
Nilsson constituted probably the greatest vocal duo ever
known.

Her letters written during this period of late 1869 and 1870
were treasured by her parents and were carefully preserved; it
has been a labor of love to reproduce them literally, for they
so fully demonstrate the deep appreciation she felt for the
wonders of Europe, although written in hurried moments.

These pilgrimages included travels in Italy, Switzerland,
France, Belgium, England, Scotland, Norway, Sweden, Fin-
land, Russia, Poland, Austria, the Tyrol, Spain, Algiers,
Turkey, the Balkans, the Holy Land and Egypt. The places
and things described by her will certainly interest persons
familiar with them. Persons intending to travel can read her
descriptions with assurance of their accuracy.

She was married on the 5th of March, 1873, at the home
of her parents, 2827 Locust Street, St. Louis, and, after a short
wedding journey by way of Louisville, Cincinnati, Harper's
Ferry and Washington, arrived at Philadelphia, her home from
that time onward.

At first residence was made at 1532 Chestnut Street. After
a few months, 256 South 15th Street was purchased and then
furnished and adapted to suit her taste for artistic surround-
ings. This home was occupied for twenty-one happy years
and here were born her two sons, J. CliflFord and Samuel Rich-
ardson Rosengarten.

PREFACE

In 1894 the family home was changed to 1905 Walnut
Street, and occupied by her for the nineteen remaining years
of her life.

During all her forty years of married life in Philadelphia
she was enthusiastically busied with musical activities. She
constantly attended the Grand Operas and delighted in lis-
tening to the greatest singers of the world. She joined the
Beethoven and St. Cecilia Choruses, was a director of the
Philadelphia Orchestra from its inception until her death,
was one of the founders of the Eurydice Chorus and was
president of that society at the time of the celebration of its
25th anniversary.

She induced the conductor. Professor Parker, of Yale Uni-
versity (composer of the Opera of Mona and other celebrated
compositions) to make the concert given in honor of the cele-
bration a unique musical event. The concert was devoted to
the memory of Michael Cross, first leader of the Eurydice and
conductor of the Orpheus Club, and in the programme were
several songs that had been taught the chorus many years
before by Mr. Cross. Compositions written by Professor
Horatio Parker, by his assistant at Yale University, Professor
Smith, by Mr. Chadwick of Boston, who has written music of
the very highest worth, a song by Gilchrist of Philadelphia and
one by Frank Damrosch, at one time conductor of the Euryd-
ice and now the head of the great conservatory of music in
New York, were rendered.

The crowning feature of this concert was the fact that each
of these eminent composers conducted in person the composi-
tion allotted to him.

After the concert these men and many of the chorus were
entertained at Mrs. Rosengarten's home, and speeches were
made congratulating the society on such a wonderful event
and praising the genius and musical talent of the president of
the society.

Mrs. Rosengarten was insatiable for travel and study of the
wonders of the world. She visited Europe in 1 869-1 870, in

PREFACE

1872, in 1892 and 1897, in 1900, 1903, 1906 and 1910. Twice
she was in California and many times in Canada. She visited
the Centennial Exposition of 1876, the Exposition at Paris in
IQOO, the St. Louis Fair, the Pan-American Exposition in
Buflfalo and went twice to the World's Fair in Chicago.

While her summer home and garden in Jamestown, Rhode
Island, were quite satisfying to her esthetic and artistic ideals
she always declared it to be a waste ot valuable time to reside
there when there was so much of intcnscst interest to her in
many parts of the world she had not seen.

She deeply regretted her inability to visit her niece, the
wife of a high military officer attached to the staff of the Vice-
roy in India, and another niece, married to an American of-
ficer attached to the United States Embassy at Peking, China.

She died on the 29th of October, 191 3, at Coronado, Cali-
fornia, after long months of illness. She passed away peace-
fully, surrounded by her family and loyal home servants,
beloved and admired by all who knew her.

F. H. R.

CONTENTS

PAGE

The Journeys of 1869-1870 17

The Journeys of 1892 177

The Journeys of 1897 245

The Journeys of 1900 353

The Journeys of 1903 419

The Journeys of 1906 5^7

The Journeys of 1910 599

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Miniature painted from photograph made in Milan in 1870 Frontispiece

Sketch Outline of the Eight Journeys Abroad 16

The Forum, Rome 41

Interior of the Coliseum, Rome 42

Pope Pius IX in the Garden of the Vatican 44

"The Noon Hour," Florence. A Contrast 48

Ponte Vecchio, Florence 49

The Campanile and the Palace of the Doges, Venice 52

Princess Marguerite 78

The Lake of Geneva 92

The Park at St. Cloud, Paris 96

The Louvre, Paris 97

The Park at Versailles, Near Paris 98

The British Museum, London 105

Holyrood Castle, Edinburgh 117

The Caledonian Canal, the Water Journey Across Scotland 125

The Gota Canal, Sweden 129

On Lake Geneva 161

Chamounix, Foot of Mt. Blanc 164

Martigny 168

Lugano, Switzerland 170

The Royal Palace, Brussels 173

The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London 188

Windsor Castle 192

Henley Regatta 194

Mont Orgueil, Castle Gorey, Jersey 196

Seigneurie Lane, Guernsey 197

Corbiere Lighthouse, Jersey 198

Creux Harbor, Sark 199

Mont Saint Michel 204

L'Escalier de Dentelles, Mont St. Michel 205

Trou ville 207

The Inn of Guillaume le Conquerant, Dives 209

Chateau de Chenonceaux 210

Chateau d'Amboise 211

Marquis de Rochambeau 216

Chateau de Rochambeau, Vendome 217

The Chamber and Deathbed of Count Rochambeau 219

Hombourg 221

St. Moritz 226

The House of Richard Wagner, Bayreuth 227

Hotel Tyrol, Innsbruck 228

To Chur, Julier Pass 23 1

Versailles 240

ILLUSTRiVriOXS

Aboard S. S. St. Paul, June, 1897. . . .- 254

Southampton 258

Daisch's Hotel, Shanklin, Isle of Wight 260

Bonchurch, Isle of W ight 261

The Crab and Lobster, Ventnor 262

Lunch at Carisbrooke Castle at "Eight Bells Inn" 263

Salisbury Cathedral 264

Exeter Cathedral 266

Interior of Exeter Cathedral 266

Penzance 267

Land's End, Cornwall 269

Logan Rock, Cornwall 270

King Arthur's Seat, Tintagel, Cornwall 273

The Walk from Lynmouth to Lynton 274

Going Through Lorna Doone Valley 275

Door of Cathedral at Bath 276

Wells Cathedral 277

At Clovelly, Cornwall 278

New Inn, Clovelly 278

Hall at Oxford 280

Trafalgar Square and the Hotel Metropole, London 281

The Eton-Harrow Cricket Match 282

Blenheim 283

"Thames Day" in the Lock 284

"Surley Hall" 285

Henley Regatta 288

On the Omnibus, London 290

Henley Regatta 291

Crossing from Folkestone to Boulogne 293

Fontainebleau: The Chateau, the Town and the Forest 295

Hotel Victoria, Hombourg 297

Theatre Marigny, Paris 299

Fontainebleau 300

Door at Fontainebleau 300

Barbizon 301

Fresenius Laboratory, Wiesbaden 302

Curious Alotto in Fresenius Home 303

"The Schloss," Hombourg 306

On the Danube at Sigmaringen 312

Schloss Sigmaringen 313

Bicycle Party at Triberg 317

Armor in Vault at Schloss Sigmaringen 318

Count Salis, "Pater Nicolas," Head of the Monastery, Benedictine

Order, at Beuron 319

Hall, Schloss Hornstein, Grueningen 320

The Family Adelmann and Airs. F. H. Rosengarten 321

The Excursion to Niebelungen Land in Royal Equipages 324

Count Adelmann and Wife and M. D. R 325

Hohenzollern Hechingen 325

Salon, Schloss Hohenzollern, Sigmaringen 326

ILLUSTRATIONS

"Hof Kammer," Sigmaringen 326

Entrance to Schloss Hohenzollern, Hechingen 327

The Lunch at Schloss Hohenzollern, Hechingen 327

Hotel Bayerischer Hof, Munich 329

The Opera House, Munich 329

Schloss Hohenstadt 332

Augsburg Cathedral 333

Royal Carriages of Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern 333

Prince Leopold of Hohenzollern 334

Staircase, Schloss Hohenstadt 335

A Part of the Garden of Schloss Hohenstadt 335

Church of Hohenstadt 336

Countess Adelmann's Boudoir, Schloss Hohenstadt 337

Banquet Hall, Schloss Hohenstadt 338

The Chemical Laboratory, University of Tubingen 342

The Roman Arch, Rheims 346

Court of Castle Pierrefonds, Near Compiegne 347

Compiegne, from the Palace 347

Laon 348

Salon, Chateau de Compiegne 349

The Cathedral, Rheims 349

Aboard the "Touraine" at Havre, September 24, 1897 350

The "Touraine" 351

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest 360

Beaulieu Abbey 361

Where William Rufus fell, New Forest 361

General Horace Porter 364

Replica at Washington, D. C, of the Monument of Rochambeau at

Vendome 365

Chantilly 367

Exposition, Paris, 1900 368

Rue des Nations, Paris Exposition, 1900 370

Grand Hotel, Lake Lugano 373

Koenigstein 375

Palace Hotel, St. Moritz 377

Tegern See, Tyrol 381

Austrian "Jager" Regiment in the Fern Pass 382

Castle Ambass, Innsbruck 382

The Fern Pass, Tyrol 384

Banquet Table, Silver Wedding, Hohenstadt 384

Hotel, Tegern See, Tyrol 385

The Bridal Couple in the Garden, Hohenstadt 387

Schloss Hohenschwangau 390

Neuschwanstein 391

Gorgeous Room in Neuschwanstein 392

Village Folk Parading for the Silver Wedding 396

Gate of Castle Hohenstadt 397

The Procession to the Church 397

Coming Out of Church after the Ceremony 397

The Return to the Castle 397

TT,LrS11^.Vll()\S

Schloss and Church, Hohenstadt 398

The Wedding Couple, Friends, and Relatives in the Garden 399

"Hoch!".... 400

Musicians of Joseph Anselm at the Wedding Banquet, Hohenstadt . . 401

Adclmannsfeldcn Castle at Elhvangen 408

"Baur au Lac," Zurich 41 1

The Top of Pilatus 412

Porta Nigra, Trier 415

S. S. Auguste Victoria 428

Funchal from the Terrace 430

Funchal, Madeira 43 1

"Coasting" at Funchal 432

Mother's Carriage, Madeira 433

Tangiers 436

Tangiers from the Citadel 437

Watching a Snake Charmer, Tangiers 437

Gibraltar 439

In Tangiers 440

The Alhambra 441

Landing at Algiers 443

Algiers 444

Blidah 445

Blidah 447

Genoa 449

The W' ater Front, Nice 450

The Carnival, Nice 452

Villefranche 452

Entrance to the Amphitheatre, Syracuse 455

Ear of Dionysius, Syracuse 456

Malta from the Sea 458

Malta 459

Tyryns, Greece 461

The Temple of Jupiter, Athens 462

The Temple of Theseus, Athens 463

Yildiz Kiosk, the Arrival of the Sultan 468

The Train to Damascus 473

Beyrout, the Port of Damascus 474

The Temple of the Sun, Baalbec 475

A Gate in Damascus 478

On the Way to Jerusalem 481

View of Joppa 482

The Gate, Joppa 483

A Street in Jerusalem 484

The Gardens of Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo 487

Cairo 488

The Trip to the Pyramids 489

The Sphinx 490

Karnak 492

The Avenue of Sphinxes 493

The Ride to the Tombs of the Kings, from Luxor 494

ILLUSTRATIONS

Isola e Capo S. Leo, Taormina 497

In the Convent Hotel, Taormina, Sicily 498

The Greek Theatre, Taormina 498

The Harbor at Fayal 518

Mountains Back of Fayal 519

Grotto of Posilipo, Naples 528

Sorrento 529

Hotel des Capuchines, Amalfi 531

Ravello 532

At Psestum 534

Hotel Timeo, Taormina 535

Solfatara, near Naples 536

From the Greek Theatre, Taormina 537

The Cathedral, Syracuse 540

The Cathedral of Palermo 542

Capri 544

At Capri ■■•••.• 545

" Campo di Fiori," Rome 548

Fountain of Trevi, Rome 549

The Appian Way, Rome 551

Viterbo 556

City Gate, Orvieto 558

The Cathedral at Orvieto 559

Spoleto 562

Spello 563

Foligno 564

Roman Temple, Perugia 565

Collegio del Cambio, Perugia 570

Monte Oliveto, Siena 572

Siena 574

San Gimignano 576

The Roman Theatre at Fiesole, near Florence 579

Door of St. Mark's, Venice 581

The Bronze Horses, St. Mark's 582

House of Peers, Munich 586

Burg Adelmannsfelden, Elwangen, Wurtemberg 587

Castle Hohenzollern, Sigmaringen 588

River Alongside Hotel Bauer au Lac, Zurich 589

Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, Paris 594

Dover Castle 597

A Bit of Canterbury 597

Canterbury Cathedral 598

Portrait of Mary D. Rosengarten, from the oil painting by Alice Kent

Stoddard 601

Aboard the Cedric 607

Ponta Del Gada 609

Glorious Madeira 611

Madeira 612

Solfatara 616

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Amphitheatre, Pozzuoli 617

A Bit in Ravello 619

Amalfi 620

Perugia and Hotel Brufani 625

The Convent of St. Francis, Assisi 626

Madonna Delia Sedia, Raphael 628

The Gallery of the Ufhzi, Florence 629

Interior of Santa Croce, Florence 629

Garden of the Hotel Byron, Ravenna 630

The Tomb of Dante, Ravenna 63 1

Chapel and Altar of St. Anthony, Padua 633

The Fountain and Pigeons, St. Mark's Square, Venice 634

Abbazia, Dalmatia 636

Trau 637

Fiume 638

Zara, Capital of Dalmatia 639

The Water Front, Sebenico, Dalmatia 640

One of the Five Cascades of the Krka River, near Sebenico 641

. At Clissa 642

The Dalmatian Coast 644

View of Ragusa from Lacroma 645

Cettinge, Capital of Montenegro 647

Mostar 648

Between Mostar and Jayce, Herzegovina 649

Sarajevo, Capital of Bosnia 652

Jayce 653

Royal Palace, Budapest 655

Hotel de Crillon, Paris 661

Hotel de Crillon, Place de la Concorde, Paris 662

Hotel de Crillon, Paris 663

The Garden, Hotel de Crillon, Paris 663

Count de Rcchambeau 666

Countess de Rochambeau 667

Her Son Clifford, Uniform of 1st City Troop in Campaign of 1898. . . 673

And in the U. S. Army in 1917 673

256 South 15th Street, the Home 1873 to 1894 674

1532 Chestnut Street, Her Home in 1873 674

Rittenhouse Square and 1905 Walnut Street, Home 1894 to 1912 .... 675

Castanian, Home in Germantown 676

Jamestown Home in 1885 676

Jamestown Home as She Changed it, 1912 677

Garden at Jamestown, 1912 677

Grape and Plum Arbor in 1912 678

The Home in Newport, R. I., 1888 678

Interior of Jamestown Home in 1912 679

The Last Day in the Garden, Jamestown, 1912 679

The Villa at Ccronado, California, 1913 680

In the Garden at Coronado, California, 1913 680

The Coronado Villa 680

THE JOURNEYS OF 1869-70

THE JOURNEYS OF 1869 AND 1870

Ambition for culture and travel finally brought permis-
sion to satisfy these long-looked-for undertakings, for Mrs.
Rosengarten, at that time Mary D. Richardson, sailed on the
30th of October, 1869, with her Father, James Richardson, of
St. Louis, and arrived safely in Paris, and thence followed her
experiences in France, Italy, Switzerland, England, Scotland,
Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Austria and the Tyrol and
a return to Italy. After the long months of study under
Maestro Lamperti in Milan began the journeys through Ger-
many, Belgium to England.

It is apparent from the letters that every moment was
utilized in the acquisition of useful and intellectual experi-
ences, the study of historic, artistic and social conditions,
and the noting of surroundings in a manner remarkable for a
person so young.

The energy shown in the ascents of Vesuvius and of the
Grand Mulcts was exceptional, and the memories of these
accomplishments were always sources of deepest pleasure to
her during the forty-four subsequent years of her life.

Notwithstanding the exciting conditions caused by the
War of 1870, the journeys were but little inconvenienced.

On the 9th of December, 1870, the return to America was
made on the Steamship Russia.

F. H. R.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1869-70

S. S. PEREIRE^ERQJvl NEW YORK, 30TH OCTOBER, 1869

New York .Oct.

Paris .Nov.

Nice \f . .Dec.

Lyons )v^Dec.

Height of Fourriere,"

Lyons Dec.

Marseilles Dec.

Avignon Dec.

Corniche Road Dec.

Monaco Dec.

Mentone Dec.

Leghorn Dec.

Naples Dec.

Savona Dec.

San Remo Dec.

Oneglia Dec.

Genoa Dec.

Pisa Dec.

Vesuvius Dec.

Herculaneum Dec.

Rome Jan.

Posilipo Jan.

Pozzuoli Jan.

Baiae Jan.

Solfatera Jan.

Cave of the Cumaean

Sybil Jan.

House of Diomedes Jan.

Sorrento Jan.

St. Peter's, Rome Jan.

Christmas Services at St.

Peter's Jan.

Rome Jan.

Hotel dellaCitta, Florence. Jan.

Pitti Palace Jan.

Florence Jan.

Uffizi Palace Jan.

Dante's House Jan.

Palazzo Vecchio Jan.

Church of Santa Croce. . .Jan.
Church of San Lorenzo. .Jan.

Duomo, Florence Jan.

Venice Jan,

Square of St. Mark's Jan.

St. Mark's, Venice Jan.

Doges' Palace Jan.

Bridge of Sighs Jan.

Pigeons Jan.

Rialto, Venice Jan.

Othello's House, Venice .Jan.
Paul Veronese Picture

and House, Venice. . . .Jan.
Titian's House, Venice. . .Jan.
Milan Jan.

29,

1869

19,

1869

1869,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

18,

1869

1870

.3';

1870

3';

1870

3^;

1870

10,

1870

10,

1870

10,

1870

10,

1870

ID,

1870

10,

1870

10,

1870

12,

1870

13,

1870

1.3.

1870

13,

1870

1,3.

1870

13.

1870

13,

1870

13,

1870

18,

1870

Cathedral, Milan Jan.

Santa Maria della Grazie.Jan.

Aleals in Milan Jan.

Masked Bail in La Scala.Jan.

Climate in Milan Jan.

Mr. Clarke, Consul,

Milan Jan.

French and Italian Les-
sons Jan.

Luca Fumigalli Jan.

Maestro Corsi, Singing

Master Jan.

Lamperti, Singing Master Jan.

Sforza Palace, Milan Feb.

Court Ball, Masked, at La

Scala Mar

Carnival at Milan Mar,

King Victor Emmanuel.. .Mar
King Victor's Birthday,

and Te Deum M

Public Gardens, Milan. . .Mar

Galleria in Milan Alar

Food in Milan Mar

Service in the Grand Hos-
pital Mar

Flowers Mar

Opera of II Guarany Apr:

Tame Hen Apr

Lamperti Music Apr;

Easter in the Cathedral of

Milan Apr;

Princess Marguerite Apri

Lake Como Apr

Camerlata Apr

Cadenabbia Apri

Villa of Princess Carlotta Apr:

Bellaggio Apr

Villa Serbelloni Apr:

Monza May

Strawberries May

Chailly, Lausanne June

Turin June

Church of La Superga.. . .June

Royal Chapel, Turin June

Prince Amadeo June

Chinamen at Turin June

St. Michele June

Lord and Lady Armstrong. June
Tower of "Bertha the

Spinner" June

St. Cecilia Society, Church
of St. Frangois Lau-
sanne June

Paris June

18, 1870 55

18, 1870 56

30, 1870 57

9, 1870 60

9, 1870 65

9, 1870 66

9, 1870 67

15, 1870 68

17, 1870 69

17, 1870 70

27, 1870

4, 1870

10, 1870

24, 1870

24, 1890

24, 1870

15, 1870

7, 1870

71
71
73
75

77
78
78
79
79
79
80
80
82

83
86
86
86
87

90
91

7, 1870 91

12, 1870 92
27, 1870 94

INDEX

Grand Hotel, Paris June

Hotel des Invalides June

Church of St. Roch June

St. Cloud June

Tlie Louvre, Paris June

Fontainebleau June

Souvenirs of French Kings June

Empress Eugenie June

Malmaison June

Church of Rueil June

St. Germain-des-Pres. . . .June

P^re La Chaise June

Tomb of Abelard and

Hcloise June

Lancham Hotel, London. July

WAR DECLARED July

Westminster Abbey July

Chaucer's Tomb July

Chapel of Henry 7th July

Tomb of Mary, Queen of

Scots July

Coronation Chair July

London Tower July

National Picture Gallery. July
Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane

Grey July

British Museum July

Crystal Palace July

Concert, Christine Nllsson,
Faure, Sineco and Tre-

belli Bellini July

Dr. Spurgeon July

St. Paul's Service July

Leamington July

Warwick Castle July

Kenilworth July

Last of the Barons July

Guy's Cliff July

Amy Robsart July

Stoneleigh Abbey July

Stratford on Avon July

Charlecote July

Shakespeare's Tomb July

Red Horse Inn July

Matlock Bath Aug.

Derwent Water Aug.

Home of Florence Night-
ingale Aug.

Peacock Inn Aug.

Haddon Hall Aug.

Chatsworth Aug.

Gardens at Chatsworth. .Aug.

Manchester Aug.

Lake Windemere Aug.

Keswick Aug.

Grasmere Aug.

Thirlemere Aug.

Rydal Water Aug.

Ambleside Aug.

Greta Hall Aug.

Southey Aug.

Edinburgh Aug.

Dr. Stuart Aug.

1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870

1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870

1870
1870
1870
1870

1870
1870
1870

18,

1870 i<

18,

1870 I

1S70 I

1870 I

94
95
95
96

97
98
98
99
99
99
99
99

lOI
lOI
lOI
102
102

102
102
103
103

104
104
104

St. Giles .'\ug. 3

juiin Kno.x Aug. 3

Edinburgh Aug. 3

Carlton Hill Aug. 3

Edinburgh Castle Aug. 3

Ilolyrood Castle Aug. 3

Lcith Aug. 3

Queen Mary's Bath House. Aug. 3

Ilolyrood Abbey Aug. 3

Tolbooth Aug. 3

Joiin Knox Aug. 3

llcart of Midlothian Aug. 3

Crown of Scotland and

Regalia Aug. 3

Roslin Castle and Chapel Aug. 3
House of Earl of Buc-

cleugh Aug. 3

Legend of the Chapel at

Roslin Aug. 3

Greyfriars Churchyard. . .Aug. 3

Cowgate Aug. 3

Grass Market Aug. 3

Queen Mary's Prayer. . . .Aug. 3
Grave of the Covenanters. Aug. 4
Mrs. Peter Leslie's Tomb. Aug. 4

Stirling Castle Aug. 4

Inscription on Tomb at

Stirling Aug. 4

Inscription on House of

Earl of Mar Aug. 4

Perth Aug. 4

Banavie Aug. 7

Aberdeen Aug. 7

Keith Aug. 7

Inverness Aug. 7

Battle Field of Colloden. .Aug. 7

Caledonian Canal Aug. 7

Loch Ness, Loch Oich. . . .Aug. 7

Loch Lochy Aug. 7

Ben Nevis Aug. 7

Braes of Lochaber Aug.

Inverlochy Castle Aug.

Oban Aug.

Fingal's Cave Aug.

Pier of Granton Aug. 22

Across German Ocean.. . .Aug. 22
Christiansand, Norway.. .Aug. 22

Gothaburg Aug. 22

Gotha Kallare, Gothaburg.Aug. 22

Concert at Park Aug. 22

Museum of Art Aug. 22

Visit to the Whale Aug. 22

Trollhatten Falls Aug. 22

Meals in Sweden Aug. 22

Trip by Canal, Sweden.. .Aug. 22

Stockholm Aug. 22

Royal Rooms .Aug. 22

Stockholm like Paris Aug. 22

Djurgatan, Finest Park in

Europe Aug. 22

Hotel in Place Gustavus

Adolphus Aug. 22

Public Gardens, Music

and Fireworks Aug. 22

, 1870

116

. 1870

116

, 1870

116

. 1870

116

, 1870

116

, 1870

116

, 1870

117

, 1870

118

, 1870

118

, 1870

118

, 1870

118

, 1870

119

, 1870

liq

, 1870

119

, 1870

119

, 1870

120

, 1870

120

, 1870

120

, 1870

120

, 1870

120

, 1870

121

, 1870

122

[, 1870

122

, 1870

122

, 1870

121

, 1870

123

, 1870

123

, 1870

124

', 1870

124

, 1870

124

', 1870

124

', 1870

124

, 1870

124

, 1870

124

, 1870

121;

, 1870

126

, 1870

126

, 1870

126

, 1870

126

, 1870

127

, 1870

127

, 1870

127

, IS70

127

, 1870

128

, 1870

128

, 1870

128

, 1870

128

, 1870

129

„ 1870

129

, 1870

130

, 1870

130

, 1870

130

, 1870

131

, 1870

131

,, 1870

131

., 1870

131

INDEX

Royal Palace, Stockholm Aug. 22,
President Lincoln's Gift

of Colt's Revolvers. . . .Aug. 22,
In Museum, Boots of

Charles 1 2th Aug. 22,

Mr. Andrews, American

Minister Aug. 22

The King Aug. 22

Salmon, Regular Food. .. Aug. 22
DelightsofTravelby Canal Aug. 22

Finland Aug. 26

Aland Islands Aug. 26

Large City Aug. 26

Cathedral Aug. 26

Helsingfors Aug. 27

Beginning to Hear Russian

Language Aug. 27

Russian Church Aug. 27

Lutheran Church Aug. 27

Strawberries, All Year

Treat Aug. 27

Wiborg Aug. 28

First Ride in Drostky . . . .Aug. 28
Men Repos, Residence of

Governor of Finland. . .Aug. 28

Russian Sailors Aug. 28

Sunday Night Ball Aug. 28

Soup Made of Fruits. . . .Aug. 28,

St. Petersburg Aug. 29

Cronstadt Aug. 2g

Church of St. Isaac Aug. 29

Marvellous Things in St.

Isaac Aug. 29

Wonderful View from the

Dome Aug. 29

Cathedral of Our Lady of

Kajan Aug. 29

Common People and Their

Dress Aug. 29

Hotel d'Angleterre, St.

Petersburg Sept.

Hermitage, St. Petersburg Sept.
National Museum, St.

Petersburg Sept.

Trip to the Island in the

Neva Sept.

Boat and Chair of Peter

the Great Sept.

Flower from Votive Offer-
ing on Tomb of Czar

Nicholas Sept.

Peterhoff Sept.

Pleasure Houses in the

Grounds Sept.

Mon Plaisir Sept.

Fountains Rivalling Those

at Versailles Sept.

The Great Theatre and

Russian Ballet Sept.

Grand Duke Nicolai. . . .Sept.
Services at Convent of

Alexander of Neoshoi . .Sept.
Fine Singing of Monks . . . Sept.

1870

1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870

1870
1870
1870

1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870
1870

1870

1870
1870

1870

1870
1870

1870

1870
1870

32
32

32
32
32
33
33
33
33

33
34
34

34
34
34

35
35
35
36
36
36
36

38
38

39
40

41
41

41
41
23

Furs Sept.

Moscow Sept.

School of Mines Sept.

State Carriages Sept.

Fatiguing Journey from
St. Petersburg Sept.

Railroad Station and Tea. Sept.

Fleas Sept.

Moscow Sept.

Kremlin and its Wonders. Sept.

Tower of Ivan the TerribleSept.

Holy Gate Sept.

Great Bell of Moscow. . . .Sept.

Wonderful Bells Sept.

House of the Holy Synod. Sept.

Holy Oil vase of Mary
Magdalen Sept.

Czar drilling Cavalry. . . .Sept.

Appearance of Russian
people Sept.

Church of the Assump-
tion and of St. Basil the
Beatified Sept.

Sparrow Hills Sept.

Songs of Peasants Sept.

Nijni-Novgorod Sept.

Bought Russian Sables. . .Sept.

St. Petersburg Sept.

Winter Palace Sept.

Crown Jewels of Russia. .Sept.

Czar's Children's Play
House Sept.

Miseries of Drostky RidingSept.

Warsaw Sept. il

54-hour Ride to Vienna . . . Sept. 1 1

St. Stephen's Church,

Vienna Sept. 1 1

Gay Life of Vienna Sept. 11

Prosperous People of

Vienna Sept. 15

Schonbrunn Sept. 15

Opera House Sept. 1 5

Glorietta Temple Sept. 15

Church of the Capucines,

Tombs of Royal FamiliesSept. 15

Sarcophagus of Maria

Theresa Sept. 15

Church of the Augustines. Sept. 1 5

Canova's Tomb of Chris-
tine Sept. 15

Treasury and Museum.. .Sept. 15

Crown Jewels of Austria,

Bohemia and Hungary. Sept. 15

Imperial Library Sept. 15

Torquato Tasso's Jeru-
salem Delivered Sept. 15

Royal Riding School Sept. 15

Picture Gallery, Belvedere. Sept. 15

Strauss Band at Folks-

garten Sept. 15

Salzburg Sept. 15

Mozart's Home Sept. 15

Geneva Sept. 19

1870
[870
[870
1870

[870
[870
1870
[870
1870
[870
[870
[870
1870
1870

[870
[870

[870

1870
1870
[870
[870
[870
[870
[870
[870

[870
[870
[870
1870

1870
[870

[870
[870
[870
[870

1870

[870
[870

[870
1870

[870
[870

[870
[870
1870

[870
1870
1870
1870

[41
[42
[42
[42

[42
[42
[43
[43
[43
'43
[43
t43
[44

'44

'44
'44

'45

'45
[46
[46
[46
[46
147
'47
'47

'47
[48
149
'49

'49
'49

[50
150
150
ISO

'50

150
[50

'5°
151

[51

151
'SI
151

[52

[52
152

152

INDEX

Munich Sept. 19

Picture Galleries Sept. 19

Great Statue ot Bavaria. .Sept. 19

Pinacotheic Sept. 19

Royal Palace Sept. 19

Music at the Cathedral.. .Sept. 19

Bronze Factories Sept. 19

Trophies at the Arsenal. .Sept. 19
Zurich via Romanshorn. .Sept. 19

Zug Sept. 19

Arth Sept. 19

Ascent of the Rhighi Sept. 19

Description of the Rhighi. Sept. 19

Kiissnacht Sept. 19

Immcnsec Sept. 19

Tell's Chapel Sept. 19

Sunset in Descent from

Rhighi Sept. 19

Naples Sept. 25

Lake Lucerne Sept. 25

Hotel Schweizer Hof Sept. 25

Lucerne Sept. 25

Brunig Pass Sept. 25

Alpine Songs and Alpine

Horn Sept. 25

Lungern Sept. 25

Brienz Sept. 25

Scenery in Switzerland. . .Sept. 25

Falls of Giesbach Sept. 25

Interiaken Sept. 25

Jungfrau at Sunset Sept. 25

Griindelwald Glacier Sept. 25

Alpine Horn Sept. 25

Thun and Lake Thun. . . .Sept. 25

Naples Sept. 25

Pompeii and Hercula-

neum Sept. 25

Baise Sept. 25

Cumse and Lake Avernus.Sept. 25
Cape Micenae and Dead

Sea Sept. 25

Grotto of the Cumaean

Sibyl Sept. 25

Hot Baths of Nero Sept. 25

Beauty of the Bay of

Naples Sept. 25

Florence Sept. 28

Entry of Victor Eman-
uel in Rome Sept. 28

The Pope Sept. 28

Breach in Rom.an Walls by

Italians Sept. 28

Italian Military Music. . .Sept. 28
Organ at Fribourg, Switz-
erland Sept. 28

Ouchy Sept. 28

Lakes of Europe Sept. 28

Geneva Sept. 28

Chamounix. ... Sept. 28

Funny Diligence Sept. 28

Sunset on Mt. Blanc Sept. 28

870
87c
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870

870
870
870
870
870
870

870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870
870

870
870
870

870

870
870

870
870
870
870
870
870
870

52
52

S3
53
S3
53
S3
53
53
54
54
54
54
54

55
55
55
55
55

55
56
56
56
56
56
S6
57
57
57
58

58
58
58

58
58

58
59

59
59

60
60
60
60
60
60
61

Venice Oct. 30,

Verona Oct. 30,

Town Hall and Palace of

Scaligers Oct. 30,

Roman Amphitheatre. . . .Oct. 30,

Tomb of Romeo and Juliet. Oct. 30,

Snow Storm in the 'lyrol.Oct. 30,

Innsbruck Oct. 30,

Hotel de la Poste, Kuf-

stein Oct. 30,

Brenner Pass Oct. 30,

Chamounix, Mer de Glace. Oct. 30,

Mauvais Pas Oct. 30,

Grand Mulcts Ascent ...Oct. 30,

Chalet on Way Oct. 30,

Avalanches and Crevasses. Oct. 30,

Wall of Ice Oct. 30,

Tied Together with Ropes.Oct. 30,
Comical Costume for the

Climb Oct. 30,

Terrible Dangers and Fa-
tigue Oct. 30,

Over the Tete Noire Oct. 30,

Wonderful Views from the

Tete Noire Oct. 30,

Martigny Oct. 30,

The E.xcursion of School

Boys Oct. 30,

Diligence to Brigue Oct. 30,

Simplon Pass Oct. 30,

Arona Oct. 30,

Hospice of St. Bernard.. .Oct. 30,

St. Bernard Dogs Oct. 30,

Domo d'Ossola Oct. 30,

Lake Maggiore Oct. 30,

Isola Bella Oct. 30,

Gardens of Duke Bor-

romeo Oct. 30,

Luino Oct. 30,

Lugano Oct. 30,

Lake Como Oct. 30,

Menaggio Oct. 30,

Camerlata Oct. 30,

Milan Oct. 30,

Brussels Dec. 5,

Antwerp Dec. 5,

Cathedral and Paintings .Dec. 5,

Market Writers Dec. 5,

London Dec. 5,

Messe Solenelle of Rossini Dec. 5,
Titiens, Sims Reeves and

Alboni Dec. 5,

Titiens and Alboni Sing

"QuiToUis" Dec. 5,

Liverpool Dec. 9,

Paris Newspaper Sent out

of Siege on Balloon .... Dec. 9,
Little Inconvenience from

Franco-Prussian War . .Dec. 9,

On Board Ship Dec. 10,

1870 1

1870

[69

187c

1870

[70

1870

[70

1870

[70

1870

[70

1870

[71

1870

[71

1870

171

1870

[71

1870

[72

1870

[72

1870

[72

1870

'74

1870

'74

1870

'74

1870

'74

1870

'75

1870

EN ROUTE

New York, Friday, Oct. 29th, 1869.
Dear Mother,

This is the last opportunity I shall have to write before
we sail, which will be to-morrow at 2 o'clock.

We sail in the French Steamer Pereire, and father heard
to-day that one of the German Line sails at the same time and
it is to be a race between them, the Pereire is one of the
fastest steamers, its last trip was the fastest on record. We
have got a heavy lap blanket and sea-chair apiece, and are
going to have a state room together so if Father is sick I can
take care of him. Our address will be in Paris, Care Munroe
& Co., No. 7 Rue Scribe. Emma Rosengarten is to be mar-
ried the last of next month and Frank is not coming home.
I feel rather blue when I think how far we are going, but of
course I shall enjoy it immensely. Do all of you write me
often. With much love to all

Your aff. daughter

M. D. R.

Paris, Friday, Nov. 19, 1869.
Dear Frank,

I don't wonder you were surprised to hear from me
on this side of the water. The truth of the matter is I
did not know of it myself until about four weeks before we
started. In October Father was taken sick. He came straight
through to New York, where I met him and we sailed on the
Pereire on the 30th of October.

EIGHT JOURNKYS ABROAD

Our plan is to spend the winter in Italy; shall probably
remain here a week longer, leaving here the first of week
after next for Marseilles. We shall go to Nice and other
places and intend to be in Rome during the Holidays. Father
expects to stay longer in Naples than anywhere else on account
of the climate. He will return in the spring and I expect to
remain at the Musical Conservatoire at Milan, but may go
to some other. We did think a little of going to Stuttgart
thinking that friends will be there, but as they are not and
we would have to go just that much out of our way and
return to Paris again, it would be foolish. Besides I shall
have opportunities to travel with friends next summer
through Switzerland and Germany.

I am going to do my best to get Father to go to Athens.*
Can't you meet us somewhere and go with us and perhaps to
Egypt? Wouldn't it be fun.^ Don't you think you will be
able to come to see me somewhere before you return. I
can't go to see you so you ought to come to me. Of course
I wouldn't expect you to come specially for that purpose,
but you can arrange some of your vacation trip so we can
meet. I must close this as I am going out. Write me soon
will you not.^ I stand very much in need of letters, have not
heard a word from home.

Yours truly,

M. D. R.

* Not till 1903 were visits to Athens and Egypt made.

FRANCE

Hotel de Paradls,
Nice, Dec. 8th, 1869.
Dear Jimmy and Lolly,

I shall direct this letter to you, because I got such a nice
letter from both of you to-day.

We left Paris last Thursday morning. We arrived at
Lyons at 1 1 o'clock at night, and put up at the Grand Hotel.
We all started out early in the morning to see the town of
Lyons. Went first to an old church founded on the site of a
palace in which Caligula was born, then we ascended the Height
of Fourriere where on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc and
the Alps a hundred miles off.

There is a church on the top, containing a miraculous
image of the Virgin. It is dressed in gold cloth and big
as a good-sized doll and when there is an invalid to be cured,
it comes out and holds a doll baby in long clothes over their
heads. The church is filled with crutches of the people who
have been cured. Then we went to see a church with a won-
derful clock that has little wooden images that popped out
from holes and staggered around and went back again, and
a cock that crowed very famtly, and one of them was gilded
and was called the angel Gabriel.

The most interesting of all the places are the manufac-
tories of silk and velvet. They all are small affairs each
owned by separate persons, and not conducted on a large scale
like ours. We saw elegant silks and velvets and damasks for

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

furniture, but the most wonderful arc the portraits woven in
black and white silk. We bought one of Louis Napoleon to
take home.

The next day we came on to Marseilles, where we had our
first glimpse of the Mediterranean. The scenery was magnifi-
cent, and on the way we saw lots of old Roman ruins, aque-
ducts and amphitheatres. At Avignon we saw the Palace of
the Popes who used to live there, also the home of Petrarch the
poet. His "Laura" is buried in one of the churches there.
Rienzi, the Roman tribune, was also once confined at Avignon.
On the way they showed us the rock from which Pontius Pilate
threw himself down.

The country is very barren, the hills are principally chalk,
but every square foot of ground which can be cultivated is
covered with grape vines. Between Lyons and Marseilles is
the great wine country, where the finest wines in France
are made, and we began to find olive trees also.

Marseilles is a beautiful city, with the Mediterranean irx
front and a mass of mountains directly behind.

I was taken sick the next morning with a touch of the ague
and didn't go out at all with Father but went the next day
riding. From one of the hills behind the city there is one of
the finest views I ever saw. The immense chalky hills and the
valleys filled with vines and olive trees taken with the beautiful
blue of the Mediterranean, combine to form a view intensely
picturesque.

The celebrated Corniche Road commences at Marseilles.
We drove along it for a mile or two then turned into the Prado
which is the fashionable drive. It is full of fine buildings,
the Imperial Chateau, Palais de Justice, and Palais de Long-
champs. In front of the latter and a part of the building is a
magnificent fountain, the handsomest we have seen. On the
Island is the prison where Mirabeau was confined. There is
also a Monument to Cataline and baths named after him.

We were two days in Marseilles and then came on here. On

the way we saw quantities of vineyards and olive trees, towards

FRANCE

the last orange trees, and here and there roses, red and pink
and all kinds of flowers in full bloom in the open air. There
is a magnificent promenade all along the sea planted with
orange, palm and date trees, and the water comes rolling in
and dashes almost over it. Along this are fine hotels and ele-
gant villas.

There are plenty of the nobility here at this season of the
year. A gentleman told father he saw the Duke of Newcastle
gambling in the Casino yesterday. They have music on the
promenade every afternoon and all the people in town walk
there at that time. Tomorrow we go out to see the kingdom
of Monaco, the smallest in the world, but it has its palace and
fortifications and theatres, &c and all the things pertaining to a
large one — and on Friday we leave for Genoa by the Corniche
Road by carriage, it will take two days. I am too tired to write
any more to-night. If you only knew how fatiguing it is to sit
up and write late at night when you have been on your feet
all day you would appreciate these letters. I will finish this
to-morrow.

Thursday Night. Dec. 9th, 1869.

We have just returned from Monaco, having spent the
day there. We had a car to ourselves, being eight in number.
It took us an hour by railroad passing through the most beau-
tiful scenery. The railroad is for the most part tunnelled
through the high rocky cliffs that rise abruptly from the Med-
iterranean, and the rest runs along embankments close to
the sea.

The Kingdom of Monaco is built on a very high prom-
ontory of solid rock, is surrounded by high walls mounted
with cannon and contains a small town and palace. The
reigning family dates back to the tenth century, and the pres-
ent prince has just married the Duke of Hamilton's daughter,
and there was a splendid green arch to their honor and flags
flying in every direction. We went first to the part that is
leased to an English Company for a summer resort. There

they have a fine garden-hotel and a Casino where there is a

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

fine instrumental concert, free, and gambling rooms. We saw
men and women gamble at roulette and rouge et noir. I
think it is a disgusting sight.

To-morrow at noon we take the cars for Mentone, where
we take a carriage and drive all the way to Genoa, which will
take until Sunday night, from there we shall go to Leghorn and
run out to Pisa to see the leaning tower, and from there by
sea to Naples. This morning we went through the old Italian
part of this town. We had to go single file and the streets
which you would call alleys are so narrow that you could
shake hands across from one house to another, and the smells
are beyond description, what with filth and garlic.

I am making a collection of stereoscopic views and photo-
graphs, and making a flower album. I wish I could buy some
of the elegant bronzes and inlaid wood tables I find everywhere.
Perhaps I shall get a book rack. I cannot possibly write
letters and keep a diary too, and I want to have my letters
for a diary on my return. Jimmy and Lolly will be interested
to know that I sat beside a real Russian princess at dinner
yesterday!

Women go round the streets driving donkeys about as
big as Jack. Men drive three horses abreast and all the
horses have great peaks on the harness between their ears.
The men do the chamber w^ork and the women act as clerks.
We see women carrying fresh sardines in baskets and crying
"Bella sardina" and saw loads of orange trees loaded down
with ripe oranges. It is just as warm here as late in April
with us, and they don't have colder weather. Will write
from Genoa if possible. With much love to all.

Your aff. sister, M. D. R.

Father is looking better than I ever saw him, and in ex-
cellent spirits.

ITALY

Naples, Dec. i8th, 1869.

Hotel du Louvre.
Dear Cliff,

I have been trying to summon up courage for three nights
to write to some of you, but if you could only know how tired
we come home every night you would not wonder.

I believe that very last letter finished with our stay at Nice.
We left there the next morning in the cars for Mentone, where
we spent the night, — it is becoming a rival of Nice as a resort
for invalids, has a lovely promenade on the sea, and protected
on the north by a high wall of mountains. In the evening we
took a walk, climbed up very narrow streets and long flights
of steps, old Roman Masonry, to the top of the hill, where
they have converted an old Roman fortress into a cemetery.

It was most weird and romantic — after poking round
through the olive groves on top of the hill in the half moon-
light we came down into a Plaza with two large churches facing
each other, and the stone pavement, and one gas lamp light-
ing the whole, once in awhile a figure creeping out of the shad-
ows just like a scene in an opera, which has always seemed so
unnatural. When we were coming down through one of the
narrow streets, where you could shake hands across, in turn-
ing a sharp corner, two old women poked their heads out of
the doors so suddenly that, with the deathly silence all round,
we were quite startled. I can't imagine anything more "poker-

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

ish," as Mrs. Place would say, than the funny narrow streets
in these places!

The next morning we took a carriage in which we rode
all the way to Savona within a few miles of Genoa, taking
two days. It was a most delightful drive along a perfectly
built road skirting the shores of the Mediterranean, in some
places reaching an elevation of two thousand feet, and through
grove after grove of olive and orange trees, and along beaches,
where a fine surf comes rolling in.

The first day we took dinner at San Remo, an interesting
old town built on arches, and stopped over at Oneglia. All
along the road we saw the old ruins of Roman fortresses and
the chain of towers built on all the high points, visible from
each other so that they could signal from one to the other. It
was a rare sight to see the Mediterranean rolling in at our feet,
and feel the warm air around us and at the same time to see the
Maritime Alps, their tops one mass of glittering snow, coming
down almost into the sea.

We arrived in Genoa "the Superb" Saturday night at
nine o'clock and went right to bed. The next day we
started out early in the morning and went first to the
cathedral built of black and white marble, in which there is
a chapel of St. John the Baptist, where his bones are kept
locked up and ladies are not allowed to enter, by order of
the Pope. We also saw another church which was modelled
after St. Peter's at Rome, and contained four magnificent
statues and one of them a celebrated St. Sebastian. We
went next to the Palazzo Doria, which was the residence of
Andreas Doria called the father of his country, and once Doge
of Genoa. It has a fine garden, and contains many interest-
ing things, such as the chair in which he used to ride around
the city, and opposite to the windows of the chamber in which
he died is the monument he erected to his dog.

At the Palazzo Brignoli we saw a magnificent collection of
paintings, among them the celebrated "St. Sebastian" by Guido
Reni, and Madonna by the same and the "Tribute Money" by

ITALY

Vandyke, also portraits of three members who have been
Doges of the Republic. The two sisters of the last one are
living one at Milan and the other at Paris. From there we
went to see one of the finest villas in the suburbs. The house
was on a level with the street and the garden built up in ter-
races behind it, so high that one could see all over Genoa from
the top. There were most beautiful fountains and grottos.

In the evening at nine o'clock we were taken with our
trunks in a sort of dory out to the steamer for Leghorn and
Naples. All that night Emma and I were terribly sick and
thought we should die before morning, and quite made up
our minds we would not go to Egypt.

We were in Leghorn early in the morning and after break-
fast went to shore in a little boat. As soon as we had put our
feet on shore we were surrounded by at least thirty ragamuffins
each one of whom wanted us to hire his horse and carriage.

They didn't pay any attention to Father, but devoted
themselves to Emma and me because we understand them and
Father would insist upon screaming English at the top of his
voice and gesticulating with his cane. After we had ridden
round the city and visited several churches and the water-
works, we took the cars to Pisa, where we visited the Grand
Cathedral and the Leaning Tower. The tower consists of
eight stories supported by Corinthian columns of white marble,
some of them quite new and others looking very dilapidated.
When the bells ring they shake the whole tower. We heard
them just after we had come down, and they were very musical.

The greater portion of the town has lately been inundated
by the Arno, and as we walked through the town we saw
them scraping out the settlings of mud and filth from the
stores and churches. After that we went back and had
our dinner in a restaurant at Leghorn and went back to the
steamer. And all that night we suffered horrors untold with
seasickness, while father was not sick at all, but he came very
near it. During one hour it was so rough that he couldn't put
into practice his method of accommodating himself to the mo-

3 33

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

tlon of the boat, for when he thought the boat had gone down
far enough it did not come up again but went down further still.

We arrived at Naples early Thursday morning, and have
had the most delightful weather imaginable. I have a room
in the front of the house facing the promenade, which runs
along the seashore, and is planted with beautiful trees, palms
and orange trees, and a place for people to ride on horse-
back. Every afternoon thousands of people walk here and
ride up and down on horseback and in carriages, dressed in
the most elegant velvet costumes, pink and blue silks. From
our window we have the whole view of the bay of Naples with
Vesuvius and Herculaneum on the left, the Island of Capri
directly in front and Baiae and Ischia on the right and at sun-
set nothing could be more beautiful than the effect of the
scenery and the promenade and all the elegant turnouts
and gaily dressed people and the music.

It is so warm we can open our windows before we are
done dressing and keep them open all day until the sun goes
down. We have given one day to shopping, i. e. looking at
coral and gloves. You can get those sets of coral flowers
very cheap, comparatively, but they are so frail that they are
not worth buying, and are old style besides. The new style
is heads, but not like mother's, that is they are not set in
gold, but are modelled after the antique and have two and
three heads in a row with pendants. They are more expen-
sive because they require larger pieces of coral. I think I
would rather have a set of coral, necklace and bracelets, than
to have any other kind of jewelry for of course I can afford
to have but one set, and I would rather have that one hand-
some than to have more and poorer quality.

I am on the dead run every minute to see one thousandth
part of what there is to be seen. I shall buy some small
scarfs in Rome for us all. I think we shall not attempt to
buy any pictures. I have to sit up late at night when I am
nearly dead in order to write. My love to all.

Yours aff. M. D. R.

ITALY

Rome, Jan. 2nd, 1870.
Hotel del America.
Dear Aunt Mary,

I have gotten so behindhand that I have hardly courage
to commence. We have been now in Rome a week, having
arrived here Christmas eve. We were in Naples eight days,
and in that time managed to see almost everything but the
Blue Grotto, at Capri and that can only be seen for a few
days during the year, as the surface of the water is so near
the roof of the entrance that if there is the slightest ripple
on the water an entrance cannot be effected.

We spent most of the time in Naples in visiting the sur-
roundings, which are very beautiful. One day we devoted to
Posilipo, Pozzuoli and Baiae, saw the temples of Venus,
Mercury, Jupiter and Diana. At the former were found the
four celebrated Venuses now in the Museum at Naples. At
Pozzuoli we visited the extinct volcano of Solfatera, which
was in action at the same time with Vesuvius when Pompeii
was destroyed. The crater is almost circular and about a mile
in circumference, and at one side is a small opening from
which sulphurous smoke pours out. The heat is so intense
that there is danger in holding one's hand near it, and the
mouth of the opening is red hot, while down inside one can
hear a terrible warning noise, which makes you feel that you
are on pretty dangerous ground.

Near this volcano which is on the opposite side of Naples
from Vesuvius, is the old Roman Amphitheatre, where the
Emperor Nero sometimes fought in the arena. Along that
hill which extends from Pozzuoli to Baiae are the summer
residences of some of the distinguished Romans, and they
showed us the ruins of Julius Caesar's villa, and that of Nero,
and many other celebrated Romans, also the hot baths of
Nero, where the water which is brought from the Solfatera
is so hot that it boils an egg easily.

Our most amusing adventure was in the Cave of the
Cumaean Sibyl which is described by Virgil in the ^neid.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We went into a long subterranean passage, and there we had
to get on the backs of men provided for the purpose, who wade
through water up to the knees, through narrow circuitous
passages and finally deposit you on a slab of stone about two
inches above the level of the water. The soot from the torches
used there for years has enveloped everything, but they brush
it away and show you the ancient frescoes all over the walls.
In the time of the Sibyl the water was not there but was intro-
duced warm from the hillside into the large stone bath tubs,
now under w^ater, one for the use of the Sibyl and one for Nero.
They show also the small opening through the thick wall from
this chamber into the open passage where the Cavaliers of the
day used to stand to receive the divinations of the Sibyl.

Father had the slimmest guide of all and it w^as a laughable
sight to see him on the poor man's back. But the funniest
of all was to see him going tip Vesuvius. We took a whole
day for that, leaving Naples in the nine o'clock train and com-
mencing the ascent with horses from Portici. We were on
the horses about an hour and a half. After we had passed
the hermitage about half an hour we left our horses and com-
menced the ascent of the cone which is 1500 feet high. As
you look up at this it appears almost perpendicular and
almost impossible for any one to climb, but I knew people
did it, and although father said he wouldn't attempt it I
announced my intention to do it, and to walk into the bargain.

Finally we began the ascent as follows. I ahead, with a
guide who had a strap over his shoulder of which I took hold,
and another behind who pushed me up. Next came Emma
seated in a chair borne on the shoulders of four guides, look-
ing very much like the Pope when he enters St. Peter's at the
ceremonials, and father bringing up the rear fixed out, as I
was, wath two guides. When you think that there is no road
whatever like on Mt. Washington, and that under foot is
exactly like broken glass bottles and ashes, and with all that in-
clined at an angle of 45 degrees, you can realize that making an
ascent of 1500 ft. under such circumstances is no small matter.

ITALY

However, I accomplished it without using the chair, but
if I live to a thousand years I shall never forget how father
looked when he was tilting along in the chair at the imminent
risk of being spilled over backwards and shouting at the top
of his voice, "On the mountain's top appearing," &c. Once
arrived on the summit of the crater, we could see nothing
(and any way there is nothing to see on account of the dense
clouds which surrounded, and the sulphurous smoke is ter-
rible). I got very much frightened while I was up above the
rest on the crater,^ — after breathing the sulphur three or
four times I felt I could not take it in again without strang-
ling, and so I just turned about without being able to see an
inch before me through the dense smoke, slid down, tumbled
down, any way to get down from the crater, where I got a
breath of fresh air and felt as if I had made a narrow escape.

The descent is made part of the way on that side of the
mountain where there is nothing but ashes. It seemed quite fear-
ful to think of first, but is in reality the easiest way, for the ashes
have so much body to them that you don't slide in further than
up to your knees, then you pull out that foot and put the other
in and slide on, only that you reverse the process, really.

The next day we were all pretty well used up and took
the day for shopping, buying coral and gloves. On the
following day we went to Pompeii. We were a little dis-
appointed to find that all the objects of interest found in the
houses have been removed to the Museum at Naples to pre-
serve them. However, there is sufficient to interest one in
the bare walls, and who last lived there, and under what cir-
cumstances they took their departure. In the streets are
the grooves worn by the chariots' wheels, and where the last
chariot that rolled over them was that of a Sallust or a Cicero.
The remnants of the Forum, Temples and theatres are all
very interesting, but the private houses more so. In the cor-
ner of a room by a barred window we saw a skeleton all doub-
led up and the head stuffed hard with ashes. In the house
of Diomedes who was the richest man in Pompeii in one of

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the underground passages there was on the wall the impress
of a human body, overtaken there and buried standing up-
right by the volume of ashes. The skeleton of course was
removed when found.

Under Sallust's house was a wine shop, with great stone
counters with holes in which the wine jugs were set. In all
the houses the floors are of fine stone mosaics and the walls
are covered with beautiful frescoes, the finest of which have
all been conveyed to the Naples Museum. I picked up a few
pieces of the mosaic to send home.

Our last day at Naples we spent at Sorrento, which is an
hour's ride in the cars and an hour's ride in a carriage along a
lovely coast from Naples. There we saw the most luxuriant
orange groves we have seen at all. It would be impossible to
describe the beauty of the Sorrento portion of the famous bay.
The great hills luxuriantly clothed with verdure rising with
scarcely any slope out of the sea, — the w^ater dashing up
against their rocky bases and displaying as many as five or
six different hues until they all blend in the distance into a
deep dark blue.

It was about dark Christmas eve when we arrived in
Rome, and as we had to get up early in the morning went
right to bed. At 3 o'clock we dressed and went to St. Peter's
to hear the Rastorella the only time it is performed during
the year, but were very much disappointed in it. I don't like the
soprano voices which belong to men, women not being allowed
to sing in the Catholic churches here. After it was finished we
hurried back to the hotel and put on black lace veils over our
heads and returned as rapidly as possible to the church in
order to get a good seat in the tribune for the high mass at
ten o'clock Christmas morning.

The tribune is a place on one side of the high altar in
St. Peter's, for the accommodation of ladies, who are only
admitted, however, in black lace veils. I wish I could give
you an idea of the magnificence and variety of the costumes
I saw on that day. First there were the members of the

ITALY

Pope's household, his chamberlains, &c., one of whom seated
the ladies in the tribune I spoke of, and for various other
purposes were stationed around the church. They are all
noble and were gorgeously dressed in purple silk short clothes
and velvet doublet, and deep cuffs of elegant point lace on
the sleeves, and high white ruffs around the neck, and a short
velvet cloak hanging from the shoulders, while their coats are
covered with badges and orders.

Then there were priests of every order and description,
some in white and some in red, and brown and black, with
every degree of shaven head. When the church was quite
full, and it is said to be capable of holding 40,000 people, the
Pope's Swiss Guard came in and formed a line around the
high altar. Their costume is very peculiar, was designed by
Michael Angelo, consists of slashed trousers of black and yel-
low and red, and high boots, and the upper part was dressed
in steel armor while the sleeves matched the trousers and
steel helmets on their heads, and a long spear called a hal-
berd in their hands. After them the bishops and archbish-
ops, Greek and Latin, came in one after another. They
were most gorgeously dressed in long embroidered robes and
the Latin with high white pointed mitres.

The Greeks wore richer dresses and a sort of triple crown in-
stead of a mitre; they are also bearded while the Latins are not.
In the meantime the nobility were entering on all sides, — they
have a separate tribune, the ladies all in black and the gen-
tlemen also, but with all their orders on. One lady came in
escorted by five or six footmen, who proved to be the Empress
of Austria, a tall fine-looking woman. Then we heard a blast
of trumpets and the Giarde Nobile, the Pope's guard, all the
members of which belong to the nobility, came in and formed
a double line the whole length of the church for the Pope to
pass through. They were dressed in scarlet with white leather
breeches, and finally, after a great deal of delay, the large
feather fans made their appearance and we knew the Pope
was coming. These fans are of large white ostrich feathers

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

set with peacocks' eyes, and are typical of the eyes of all men
resting upon him, and seven men carrying tall candles go
before him, referring to those described in the Apocalypse.

Then there are six men carrying a white silk canopy, under
which is the Pope in a magnificent w^hite robe, seated on a
portable throne carried on the shoulders of men, and as he
passes up the aisle he lifts his hand feebly at intervals to be-
stow his blessing on the multitude.

At this ceremony there is always a hat and sword blessed
and given to some of the nobility. They had the hat bob-
bing round on a stick during the whole of the ceremony.
At the conclusion there was a burst of silver trumpets from
the immense dome, of which the effect is more beautiful than
can be described.

I am too tired to write more to-night, in regard to what I
have seen. It w'ould amuse the children very much to see
Father shake hands with the little beggars who come after
him, and they think he is going to give them something but
they are vastly mistaken. I will write once more before we
leave and try to tell you all about Rome.
With much love to all.
Father continues well. Yours AflF. M. D. R.

Rome, Jan. 3rd, 1870.

We have seen so many things in Rome that I can
scarcely make a beginning, but I think I have seen nothing
that I prefer to the Coliseum and the Baths of Caracalla.
The seven hills are all included within the walls, the Capi-
toline. Palatine, Quirinal, Esquiline, Vimlnal, Caelius and Aven-
tine, and the most interesting remnants of old Rome lie near the
two former. At the foot of the Capitoline are the ruins of the
Roman Forum, considerably below the level of the modern city.

There is very little standing now — a colonnade in one

corner, what is left of the School of Xanthar, and there are

eight columns of the Temple of Saturn, and three columns

of the Temple of Jupiter, also the Arch of Septimius

ITALY

Severus under which may yet be seen a remnant of the old
Via Sacra, and the ground all around is covered with frag-
ments of columns. On the right, and covering the Palatine
Hill, are the ruins of the Palace of the Caesars, an immense
mass which has only recently been discovered, the summit
of the hill having been heretofore a public garden. Since the
discovery it is being excavated at the expense of Napoleon III.
They have found three tiers of houses, built one upon
the other, first that built by Constantine II, that by the

THE FORUM, ROME

Caesars, and third that of Romulus. The mosaic pavements
in these old ruins are most wonderful and the amount of
elaborate carving in white marble, and the glorious old
colunins are beyond description. Opposite these ruins are the
Basilica of Constantine, and the temples of Antoninus and
Faustina, and in between the temple of Venus and Roma,
and in front of all the Coliseum, the grandest ruins in the
world. We climbed way up to the top of it, and could hardly
bear to look down, the height is so tremendous. It is con-
structed with four rows of seats, the lower for the Emperor

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and Senate, the next for the nobility, the third for the middle
classes and the highest for the plebeians.

I bought to-day a very fine stereoscopic view on glass, which
I paid nearly a dollar for; it is a new kind of view and con-
sidered very beautiful. One day we visited the Baths of
Caracalla, a magnificent ruin, with beautiful mosaic pave-
ments (it was here Shelley wrote most of the Prometheus
Unbound), and porphyry columns. I took away a few pieces

SS^

INTERIOR OF THE COLISEUM, ROME

of the mosaic, they are very antique, and look very much
like malachite, and the same day we went to the Catacombs of
St. Sebastian. I think we walked a mile or two, and there is
no knowing how far one could walk. They are merely narrow
passages lined with holes on each side, for the bodies, and every
once in awhile altars, and by the side of a great many tombs
are little bottles which held the blood of the martyrs.

We went to a church called the Three Fountains, on the
spot where St. Paul was beheaded. The tradition is that when

ITALY

Paul's head fell oflf it rebounded three times, and at each place a
miraculous fountain sprang up. Then at another church
outside the walls, called St. Sebastian, and where there is a
beautiful reclining statue of that Saint, they show visitors a
stone in which are the foot-prints of Christ when he appeared
as a vision to Peter and Paul as they were fleeing from Rome.
We saw also, in a little church outside the walls, the spot
where St. Peter was crucified and I took some sand in a little
bottle.

Rome, Jan. 4th, 1870.

To-day we have been all day long in the Vatican, and
have seen the two finest pictures the world contains, that is
according to the artistic standard. I think I have seen pic-
tures that have given me quite as much pleasure, but in
point of grandeur of conception and beauty and delicacy of
finish, nothing could excel the "Transfiguration" of Raphael
and the Last Commission of St. Jerome by Domenichino.
They are in the Pinacotheca or Picture Gallery in the Vatican.

The other fine pictures are the Madonna da Foligno, and
a Magdalen by Guercino and Bavoccio. The celebrated car-
toons of Raphael are executed in tapestry and hung on the side
walls of a long corridor. I think I should enjoy the original
drawings much more. They are in Hampton Court, England,
I believe. The Stanze of Raphael are distributed through four
rooms. Among them is the celebrated picture of the deliverance
of St. Peter from prison and the School of Athens, and a fresco
called "Poetry" representing Apollo on Mount Parnassus, sur-
rounded by the muses and Greek, Roman and Italian poets.
In the whole effect of the Sistine Chapel I was considerably
disappointed, for it is very much defaced in places, and I
had expected to see something extremely elegant in detail.
The things worth remembering in it are the "Last Judgment"
by Michael Angelo, which occupies one whole end of the
Chapel and the frescoes on the roof by the same painter
pleased us as much as anything we have seen, — they repre-
senting the difi^erent stages of the Creation and the Expulsion

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

from Paradise. The two figures of Eve are considered perfect
representations of female beaut)^ The statuary of the V^ati-
can is the finest in the world with the exception of a few pieces
in the Capitol here, and some at Florence. What I liked
best were the Perseus and two Wrestlers by Canova, the
celebrated Maleager with hound, the Belvidere Apollo,
.the Belvidere Antinous and the Laocoon. These were the
finest, but there were Venuses and Minervas and others by
the thousand, all beautiful in themselves, but comparatively un-

PuPE i-iLb IX IN THE GARDEN oP iliE VATIlAN

important when viewed beside the great masterpieces. In the
Palazzo Barberini is the celebrated portrait of Beatrice Cenci.
The rest of the best works of Art in Rome are to be found
in the Capitol. This is a collection of large palaces on the
Summit of the Capitoline hill overhanging the Forum. The
galleries of sculpture and painting occupy two sides of a
square and the Hall of Senators a third. In the middle and
front of the latter are two colossal statues of the Nile and
Tiber and in the middle of the open square a large statue of
Marcus Aurelius. It must at one time have been covered
with gilt as there are traces of it on the neck of the horse. In

ITALY

the Sculpture gallery we saw the "Dying Gladiator." I could
only take a short look at it, which, however, was long enough
to impress me with the great power of expression displayed in
it. It represents a Gallic gladiator dying in the arena of the
Coliseum probably, and the agony in his face is finely expressed.

In the same room is the Faun of Praxiteles mentioned
In the "Marble Faun" as the one of Donatello it so strikingly
resembled. The Venus of the Capitol Is kept under lock and
key, and is a most lovely creation. All these are relics of an-
cient Roman art. I think the marble the ancients used does
not compare with the Carrara A/[arble now in general use
among Sculptors.

Our last day in Rome was spent among the studios, but
as we were all very tired we concluded to visit those of
American artists only. We went first to Buchanan Read's,
found him at home and very affable. His paintings are all very
much in the same style and I must say that I think his con-
ception of angels is far finer than one sees generally — he makes
them to appear almost transparent. The "Pleiades " and "Will
of the Wisp" I liked best of the pictures we saw in his studio.

Miss Hosmer we did not find at her studio — had just gone
out. We saw her "Sleeping Faun" and a beautiful fountain
ordered by an English lady, all very fine works. We went to
Vinnie Ream's studio partly to see her and partly the statue of
Lincoln she is making. She was not by any means the beauty
I expected to see and I was not particularly prepossessed by
her or her statue, though the face of the latter is very natural.

Reinhart is the American sculptor who has gained the
highest reputation in Rome, and we certainly found more
to admire there than anywhere else. I have no doubt you
think these letters terribly tedious for I find that I have
confined myself quite too strictly to the things I have seen,
but you must remember that it is a great deal more satis-
factory in the end to have an account of all one's travels, for
traveling as rapidly as we do it is impossible to remember one-
half of what we see or what is told us.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Hotel della Citta,

Florence, Jan. 7th, 1870.
Dear Mother,

We left Rome very early yesterday morning and had a
very long fatiguing journey here, although we passed through
some of the loveliest country I have ever seen. The road runs
along under high mountains, the Apennines, and we had a
fine view of fertile valleys and high peaks and narrow, swift
streams and sometimes cataracts. One reason why we were
so tired was that we were kept awake all the night before by
the noises in the streets of Rome. It seems that on the night
of the 5th of January the Pope liberates the Devil in Rome
for three days, and he is allowed to run loose and do what he
chooses until the end of that time. And anyone would have
certainly thought he had really got loose by the noise of the
men, women and boys who collect and go through the streets
each playing on a different instrument, and they manage to make
an outrageous noise.

As we entered the depot at six o'clock to come here, the
guns of St. Angelo ushered in the Epiphany and there was to
be a grand ceremony at St. Peter's. All day yesterday and
to-day I have been troubled with a terrible cold in my head
and throat, so we didn't manage to do much sightseeing to-
day. We went, however, to the Pitti Palace and through
its Gallery, saw several beautiful Holy Families by Andrea
del Sarto, and the Madonna del Seggiola of Raphael, con-
sidered the most beautiful of all Madonnas and indeed it is
beautiful. But a Holy Family of Andrea del Sarto I like
just as well. In one of the rooms we saw a most elegant
mosaic table which cost an almost fabulous price.

The shops here are filled with mosaic jewelry and paper
weights inlaid with beautiful flowers almost as perfect as
nature, and boxes for all sorts of uses.

ITALY

Florence, Monday, Jan. loth, 1870.

We haven't had one decent day since we arrived here last
Thursday night, so that we have really seen very little of
Florence. One day we spent in the Pitti Palace, which is the
residence of Victor Emmanuel. This Palace is on one side
of the river and the Uffizi on the other, — they are both used
as galleries of Art, and are connected by a long narrow pas-
sage built over the tops of the houses and that crosses the bridge
over the Arno in the same way. In the Uffizi we saw the cele-
brated Venus di Medici, in which I was dreadfully disappointed,
the Dancing Faun, the Young Apollo, the Wrestlers and
Antonino or slave whetting his knife, five works of great celeb-
rity as well as antiquity. The finest of the paintings in
this gallery were the Madonna of the Goldfinch, and of Ra-
phael and his celebrated Fornarina, the Venus alluded to by
Byron, Guercino's Sibyl, and a Madonna and child by Corr-
eggio. The Carlo Dolce's Mater Dolorosa, of which there
is an engraving in the parlor, we saw, I think, in the Pitti
Palace. Afterwards we went to the house where Dante used
to live. It is unoccupied and the windows broken in so we
did not think it worth while to enter, and went to the house
of Michael Angelo, which is a palace, as he was noble. There
we saw quantities of sketches in all stages of completion.
They show his furniture and portraits of his family and the
little cabinet where he used to write.

We then drove to the Palazzo Vecchio, where in the open
square is a fine fountain called the Fountain of Neptune, and
in the portico along side of it are some magnificent statues,
Michael Angelo's David, Perseus, with the Medusa's Head,
and the Rape of the Sabines, and after that to the Museum
where there is a good collection of bronzes and ancient armor
and weapons. The only thing worth remembering is, I be-
lieve, a fine bronze of Mercury represented in motion. I take
more interest in the churches than anything else and they
are remarkably fine here.

In the Church of Santa Croce are buried almost all the

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Florentines of distinction. Here are the tombs of Michael
Angelo and Dante, Machiavelli, Galileo, Michele, Nobili, Lami,
and Bruni, This church is alluded to by Byron in the 4th canto
of Childe Harold. It is very large and gloomy, as most Catholic
churches are, and they were conducting Vesper service while we
were looking at the tombs. The combined effect of the music
and associations connected with the place I shall never forget.

Till-: >;()(")>: hour." fldrI' N'i:

In the church of San Lorenzo in front of the high altar is
the testimonial presented to Cosmo di Medici, with the
words "Pater Patriae." In one of the side chapels. is the tomb
of Lorenzo di Medici executed by Michael Angelo. The finest
part of the church is the Medicean chapel, built in circular
form with a magnificent dome and lighted only by a few win-
dows way up in the dome. In this are the tombs of the rest
of the Medici family. The walls are one solid mass of the
most elegant mosaic in costly marbles you can imagine, even
precious stones are used in the ornamentation.

ITALY

But of all things the Duomo or great cathedral pleases me
most. The exterior, which is 500 ft. long, is covered with blocks
of black and white marbles arranged in patterns, and in the in-
terior, which is quite plain, the light is always like subdued
moonlight, and the echoes of the organ tones are wonderful.
We ascended to the dome, and from the balcony, which is built
just at the foot of the dome, looking down, the men and women
below look like flies crawling on the pavement, and the feet
of figures in the fresco of the dome are longer than a man's
cane, while from below they look perfectly minute. The

PONTE VECCHIO. FLORENCE
Built in 1345

Campanile or bell tower is built separate from the church and
is square, built of marbles of all colors and blocks of all sizes
arranged in the most elaborate patterns. The Baptistery in
which all the children are baptized has the celebrated bronze
doors by Ghiberti which Michael Angelo said were worthy
to be the gates of Paradise, but I couldn't see it.

I am so glad Jimmy wants to take lessons on the organ,
do let him take of Mr. Anton, and tell him I want him to take
pains with him and be strict with him.

We leave to-morrow morning for Venice and shall be in
Milan Saturday night. With much love.

Yours aff'ly, M. D. R.

4 49

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Venice, Jan. 12th, 1870.

Hotel Victoria.
Dear Aunt Mary,

Here we are in Venice, and all of us perfectly carried away
with It, and Father the most of us all. We travelled all day
yesterday through the most beautiful country imaginable,
among mountains with their tops covered with snow, and by
little villages in the hollows between them and in sight of all
sorts of pretty and romantic bridges spanning the mountain
torrents, and towards evening the railroad swept out into the
open sea and we were in Venice before we knew it. We had
a moonlight ride in a gondola to the hotel and for real romance
found it the only thing that has not disappointed us at first
sight.

Venice, Jan. 13th, 1870.

We have concluded to go away to-morrow morning and
as I don't wish to have anything on my mind, I will give you
an account of it and send this oflF from Venice so it may go
by the way of Germany.

We spent our first morning in looking at the surround-
ings of St. Mark's square, which can be reached from the hotel
by a very narrow and crowded street. This brings us out
facing St. Mark's church, which is decidedly the most in-
teresting church we have seen in point of architecture, being
built in the Moslem style with domes and minarets. The
front is supported by pillars brought from the church of Santa
Sofia in Constantinople, and over the doors are the gilt bronze
horses of St. Mark. The inside is more peculiar than the
outside, if that be possible. The roof is one mass of mosaic
on gilt ground and the floor is mosaic and very elaborate, the
parapet is formed entirely of the fronts of tombs from Con-
stantinople and four of the pillars of the high altar were
brought from Solomon's Temple, though I find the latter
rather hard to believe.

They also show some very rich columns carved in alto
relievo the whole length, and in the Baptistery an elegant

ITALY

font from Constantinople of bronze carved instead of moulded.
In this church is the pulpit from which the Doges preached
at the time of the crusades — you know they all started from
here and were fitted out here. In front of the church are
three red masts, standards to commemorate the three great
conquests made by Venice. The open square of St. Mark's
is about 600 feet long and paved with large blocks of stone.
It is very imposing, surrounded on all sides with magnificent
palaces, on one side the ancient palace of the Doges and on
the other the royal palace of Victor Emmanuel. The open side
of the square is on the w^ater and is the grand or State land-
ing, and there stand two immense pillars of granite, one sur-
mounted with the Venetian lion and the other with Theodore,
the first patron saint of the city.

It was between these two columns criminals were formerly
executed. When Mariano Faliero landed at Venice in the dark
he came by mistake between these columns, a fact held to be
ominous by the people, and in a year he was executed. I for-
got to say that in the baptistery of the church the altar was
formed from a large rock, from the summit of Mt. Tabor,
where the Transfiguration took place.

The Doges' Palace is full of historic interest. Part of it is
now used as a public library and is ornamented with very
fine paintings. In it are the Halls and Antechambers of the
celebrated Councils of Three, Forty and Ten, who ruled the Re-
public with the Doge, and also the secret passages leading from
the Bridge of Sighs to these Halls, for the use of the prisoners.
Father seated himself in the Doge's seat and feltvery important.

The garret was formerly used as a prison in the summer
season, as a more severe punishment on account of the heat.
Here Silvio Pellico and Casanova were imprisoned and the
former used to feed the doves out of his prison window. Of
course the Bridge of Sighs interested us more than anything
else. It connects the Doges' Palace with the large prison
separated from it by a small canal. The most gloomy and
dreadful prisons are on the Palace side of the bridge and were

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

called the Political prisons. It is said that no one could sur-
vive more than eight days in them. It was here Mariano
Faliero and the two Foscari were imprisoned and were exe-
cuted at the entrance of the bridge in a narrow dark passage-
way. AH criminals were brought over the Bridge of Sighs
to hear their sentence and executed between the two columns
in the Piazza.

Ilfl ,'

i •

THE CAMPANILE AND THE PALACE OF THE DOGES, VENICE

There is a magnificent entrance to the Palace called the
Giants' Staircase on account of the colossal figures of Mars
and Neptune at the top. At the head of this stair-case the
Doges w^ere crow^ned and in the middle half-way down
Mariano Faliero was executed, having been tortured for
two days before. The clock tower of the church is a great

ITALY

curiosity, on the high tower are two bronze men standing,
one on each side of a bell, and these men strike the hours with
huge hammers. As the clock strikes two every day all the
pigeons in Venice come to one window in the square to be fed,
an old lady having left a bequest to that effect. You cannot
imagine what a curious sight it is to see those birds flying
from all points as the clock strikes and many come a few
minutes beforehand and seat themselves around the window.
We have fed them for two days with corn and they come
around us by the hundred and will even light on your hand,
they are so tame.

We have been into quite a number of churches, one of
them remarkable for being the burial place of most of the
Doges, but have seen none that pleased us so much as that
containing Titian and Canova, Santa Maria dei Frari. That
of the former is very beautiful in itself, but is so completely
eclipsed by the tomb of Canova that one scarcely cares to look
at it. Anything to equal that in the effect it has upon one,
I never saw. It represents a pyramidal tomb with half open
doors and flight of steps on which at one side Genius habited
as an angel is presented dying, and on the other a procession
of figures all life size are ascending from the side, the fore-
most of which, a beautiful figure completely veiled, carries an
urn in which is Canova's heart.

There is also in this church a very remarkable monument
to one of the Doges, colossal Moors in black marble and
clothed in white, holding up a balcony on which he sits.

We went to-day to the Arsenal but were not permitted
to enter as the workmen had mutinied but we wxre quite satis-
fied to look at the outside. On each side of the gate is a co-
lossal lion in Greek marble, brought from Athens, and dating
back to before Christ. It seems when the 1st Napoleon came
to Venice he broke the heads of all the lions in Venice so that
they are all to be seen now with patched heads.

Yesterday we went to the Rialto, the famous bridge over
the grand canal, consisting of one arch and having three pas-

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

sage-ways — near this we found Shylock's money shop, and
found them still at the same old trade. Father went in and
asked them if they had any "monish" to lend. On the grand
canal are many fine palaces, belonging to the old Venetian no-
bility, there also is the house of Desdemona, and in another part
of the cit}' that of the Moor, Othello, ornamented with a black
statue of himself. Nearby was the house of Paul Veronese
and in another part of the city we were shown where Titian
lived. Canova the great sculptor lived here, and in one of
the private palaces here are two fine statues of his "Ajax" and
"Hector." We have seen some fine works of art, but I am
so tired of looking at pictures that I find it very difficult to
remember them. Paul Veronese's "Rape of Europa" and the
Assumption of the Virgin, and some historical pictures of
value are the best worth remembering. In the Scuola St. Roch
are very fine frescoes and wood carvings and parapets for the
altar, one mass of gold and precious stones, used on Feast Days.

We have just returned from a moonlight walk in the
square, and the Rialto. It is a sight I shall never forget. As
we were standing near the column of the Lion of St. Mark, a
man issued out dressed in an immense white mask with long
flowing hair and saluted us. We were quite a little frightened
at first, but he did not molest us.

We shall be in Milan to-morrow night and I am very glad,
being about worn out with travelling, for between driving
about all day doing the hardest kind of work for there is no
harder work than sight seeing, and writing all night there is not
much left of me. Emma is going to stay with me in Milan,
where I shall remain until ready to travel next summer. Father
is beginning to be anxious to get home, and I think we shall
all be glad to rest. We have got Kate Flinn a rosary blessed
by the Pope, and I had one given to me, a present from the
Bishop of Toronto, Canada, who came over with us. My
love to all inquiring. Tell the children to write.

With much love,

Yr. aff. niece M. D. R.

ITALY

No. 7. P. Via Pasquirolo,

Milan, Jan. i8th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary,

Father has left us and here we are sitting in our parlour
as forlorn as possible. I felt dreadfully to have father go.
We moved Into our apartments yesterday and he stayed with
us until his dinner, then went and returned for us to accom-
pany him to the railway station. I never felt so badly in my
life as when I saw the last of him and I think he felt very
badly also. He seemed to dread the journey very much.
His general health seems very good, but he suffers very much
with the cold, as Indeed all of us do. He can outwalk any of
us and has slept well until lately, and now he wakes up early
in the morning. He will be in Paris to-morrow morning if
he is not delayed, and we shall hear from him in a day or two.

We spent the time while he was here in seeing the places
of interest. Sunday afternoon we went to the Cathedral and
to the top of It, and from there had a splendid view of the
Mountains with their tops covered with snow. This Cathe-
dral is a wonderful structure. It is all built of white marble
and the outside is a mass of the most delicate and ethereal
pinnacles and the Inside of Gothic arches. There are
accommodations for ever so many thousand statues, but
as there is such a difference of opinion In regard to the number,
I will not attempt to tell how many! Under the altar is
a subterranean chapel dedicated to St. Charles the first. Arch-
bishop of Milan. He is exhibited in very elegant clothes in
a silver coffin, through a rock-crystal cover.

In the church of Santa Maria delle Grazle we saw the
celebrated painting of Leonardo da Vinci, the Last Supper,
which you have seen in many engravings.

Now I will tell you about our apartments. We went
to work the first thing to find the American Consul and call
on him. He told us It would be of no use to go about in
search of apartments, that he would do it for us, &c., and the
next day he came for us to go look at some. We were well

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

pleased and he said he knew it was the best we could do.
They consist of quite a large room with two windows,
grand piano and quite handsome furniture, — that is our
parlor, and a small bedroom adjoining.

We have made arrangements to-day about our French and
Italian lessons and by the time I write again shall be able to
tell you what sort of person I have got for a singing teacher.
I suppose you all think that as we are in sunny Italy we ought
to be very warm. Far from it! I never suffered so in all my
life with the cold. I spend most of my time sitting, bellows
in hand, trying to keep the fire from going out altogether.
The only people in the house are three English girls and an
Italian Professor of literature. We have seen them only at
dinner and such a dinner! Macaroni, chestnuts and onions!

We took our coffee in bed this morning and had breakfast
at half past eleven. Then we went out and got some few neces-
saries. I have been reading over all your letters to cheer me
up. I feel so dreadfully now father is gone. It is awfully
lonesome for us two, alone among strangers. I wish you
would write very often — you don't know how welcome your
letters are. I like to get just the kind of letter you write tell-
ing all the home news. I have sent to Paris for my gray poplin
and black and white silk, and expect to wear out some of my old
clothes while I am here. I shall not get anything new unless
perhaps a new black silk suit when I leave here next summer.

We understand they keep the carnival here more than
in Rome. I suppose we shall go to one of the Masked Balls
in "La Scala" before it is over. I forgot to say that Father
took us one night to the Opera to see "Piero di Medici." We
had a box and invited the Consul and he came. I would
give a good deal to-night if I could toast my feet over a reg-
ister. My hands are so stiflF now that I can hardly write and
I don't see but what we are really going to suffer with the
cold until warm weather comes. Do write often and tell Cliff
and Warren to write also.

With love to all inquiring friends,

Your aff. niece, M. D. R.

ITALY

Milan, Jan. 30th, 1870.
Dear Mother,

I am not feeling very well to-day, but felt that I ought
not to let the day pass without writing a letter home. I think
I have got the ague, this climate is very much like ours, and
they have intermittent fever here as well as all through Italy,
but I hope to get over it soon. We begin to feel quite at home
in our rooms now, and long for warm weather to come. We
have had several calls, a Mrs. Heisch and her daughter — very
nice English people who boarded at the hotel where we stopped
when we first came, and the minister who preaches at the
English Chapel, where we go every Sunday and pray for Vic-
tor Emmanuel and the Queen of England. He has gone away
for his health and the minister who has supplied his place has
also called. The American Consul, Mr. Clarke from Boston,
comes to see us nearly every other day, and to-day he intro-
duced the English Consul to us, and he will also call.

We are now settled at our lessons, but no matter how dili-
gent we may be, four months is too short a time to learn very
much. We take lessons in French and Italian of a lady, and
Emma takes lessons in instrumental music of Luca Fumigalli,
who is a composer and has played at the best concerts in Lon-
don. I take singing of Maestro Corsi who has been one of
the great artists, such as Garcia and Ronconi have been. We
went the other night with Mr. Clarke to see the Opera of
"Rigoletto" in which Corsi is playing for the first time in fifteen
years for he is quite an old man and has not had any voice
for a long time. His acting is very celebrated and certainly
is the finest I ever saw. We got quite frightened at one time,
the people became so excited when there was a particularly
fine part, crying "Corsi" and "Bravo," and called him out
before the curtain four times before they became quiet.

I am taking three lessons a week now and he will not let
me practice more than two hours a day, says my voice is
soprano and sweet and flexible. I went to hear a lesson at
Lamperti's who has trained a great many for the stage, and was

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

never so disgusted in all my life. His lessons arc from twelve
to four. In the meantime all the scholars come in and he takes
them in turn. He sits down on the sofa and takes hold of the
pupil's hand and with a stick which he holds in the other hand
he marks the time and how he wants the tones shaded by pass-
ing the stick over the pupil's arm. He in the mean time smokes
and laughs and talks with all the people in the room and all the
artists in the city walk in and out of the room smoking also, and
the smoke and confusion cannot be imagined. All sorts of
characters go there, most all of them are training for the stage.

This is one of the places where all the engagements,
musical, are made. I had a letter from Father this morning
saying that he had concluded to wait a week longer in London
for the sake of going with Mr. Perry and Cyrus W. Field,
as they wanted him to. I am glad Father has met friends.
He needs a great deal of society and is very dependent on
it, — he was dreadfully homesick. Vienna is the place to
buy all sorts of things in Russia leather. Silks and velvets
and laces and underclothing are the things that it pays to
buy. I shall not be in Paris until next September at least,
so you will have plenty of time to think over what you want
me to get by that time.

I shall be dreadfully discouraged if I get the ague fastened
on me again. It takes all the ambition out of one. I shall
go out to-morrow and hunt some quinine. Mr. Clarke says
it is well to take it often in this climate. I would give a good
deal if I could look in on you all to-night. I do miss father
so. I think you had better decide to come over next summer
with Mr. Greeley, and travel all summer, and we'll go back
in the fall together. Do write often, just think how you would
feel if you were off here alone. Some of you can certainly
write once a week. My letters are to all. My time is so
occupied I can't write oftener than once a week.

Your aif. daughter,

M. D. R.

ITALY

No. 7 Via Pasquirolo,

Milan, Feb. 9th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary,

It is nearly a month now since I have heard a word from
home and I can't imagine what you are all thinking of. It
is three weeks since Father left us to go to London and since
then I have not heard a single word from any of you. Father
has written me every few days, and I'm thankful to say so,
or I don't know what would have become of us. Last Satur-
day, the day I knew Father was to sail from Liverpool, I
thought I would die of homesickness, and sat down and cried
for two or three hours.

You at home cannot imagine how we are situated here.
We don't know but two or three people here, and of course
being busy can't see much of them. A Mrs. Bonney and
children from Boston were here to-day and a Mrs. Heisch and
daughter from England are the only acquaintances we have.
There is not a large foreign population as in the German cities
and Florence, Rome and Naples, and one has no choice between
no society at all and the Italian, which is very corrupt and is
of two kinds, that which includes the highest rank of nobility,
who don't admit foreigners, and the other a combination of
musicians, artists and critics, and some few counts and count-
esses, which is as corrupt as any society well can be. I don't
know what we would do if Mr. Clarke didn't take such an in-
terest in us, and he is an old stick and is gone now to Vienna
to stay three weeks. And in the house the two young ladies
of whom I have spoken manifest no desire to be at all friendly
with us. They go with the artist set and are studying for
the stage, and whether they are afraid we shall get into their
set or not, I don't know, but as they are infidels I don't think
the loss of their acquaintance will do us any harm.

The truth of the matter is that between music, French and
Italian I have to work too hard and don't have enough relaxa-
tion. Every time we go out we are spoken to by men, some of
them old grey-headed ones too. The lady of the house don't

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

speak anything but Italian and the man speaks only a little of
the worst French you ever heard. You would be much amused
if you could see us take some tea of an evening with the land-
lady. We talk in French, Italian and pantomime, and have
a great time understanding each other, and sometimes we talk
for an hour or two, so you can imagine we get along somehow.
The Court Ball takes place in two or three weeks where
King Victor Emmanuel will be present. I suppose we could go
if we had our names put down a long time before, but one has
to go in Court dress and I should have to get a new one and
as there is not the least probability that anyone would take
any notice of us, it would hardly pay. We shall probably
go to one of the Masked Balls during the Carnival. The King
will come here for that they say, as this is the only place where
they keep the three days succeeding Ash Wednesday. In
fact there is more gaiety here than in any other city in Europe
at that time. During those days they pelt everbody who
appears on the Corso with white lime.

I wouldn't say much about my studying music here, for
although I shall do my very best to acquire as much as possible,
still four months is a very short time to accomplish anything
in, and I found that losing my practice while travelling made
a great difference, and we shall probably be travelling six
months after leaving here and shall consequently lose a great
deal for want of practice. We have been so busy we have not
really seen any of the sights of Milan. We are going some
day soon to see the King's Palace, and when the warm weather
comes shall go to the Gardens, and old Sforza Palace or Tri-
umphal Arch erected by the ist Napoleon.

The place where they drive and walk here is called the
Bastione, and is a magnificent wide street, planted with trees
on both sides of great height, and has a low stone wall the
whole length, also on both sides, and is several miles long. It
is the most delightful place to walk you ever saw.

I had a letter from Father this morning saying that Mr.

Perry had arrived in Liverpool, and they were to go on board in

ITALY

three hours. I feel dreadfully to have him go as long as he was
on the same continent. I would give a good deal if you could
look in on us and see what we are doing.

We take turns in practising and the only recreation we have
is sometimes to go out walking together. We have been getting
up earlier in the morning lately to gain more time. The people
here generally take their coffee and bread and butter in bed at
half past eight and then get up and dress. I don't believe
the servant girl gets up before half past seven o'clock, it is the
custom here, and at 12 o'clock we have another breakfast
of meat or omelette and bread and butter and wine, and at
half past five dinner.

I never saw such a place for dwarfs and singing. All the
people down to the infants in arms sing in the streets at night
and I don't exaggerate when I say that one person out of every
five is a dwarf. One spoke to us and winked at us on the
street the other day and we were so indignant. The children
would think our street was an alley if they should happen to
get into it — it is not a bit wider than, if it is as wide as, the
alley behind our house, and is built four or five stories high
on each side, so that the sun never comes in more than a half
hour during the day.

They say there will surely be an uprising in Paris, on
account of their acquitting Pierre Bonaparte, the people are
so indignant.*

In my letter this morning Father writes "the next time I
travel I shall take your Ma with me," and I hope he'll con-
clude to come over next summer with her and we'll all go home
together. Don't forget to get Father to tell you about the
verse in scripture that he thought would be rather a hard
sentence on the people of this country. Emma wants him
to tell over the adventures to her father and mother. I do
long for some oysters so! I haven't seen one here.

With love to all,

Your loving niece, M. D. R.

*In July, 1870, the Franco-Prussian War began! Doubtless the result of universal
political unrest such as again brought on the War in 1914.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Milan, Feb. lot.h, 1870.
Dear Father,

I received yesterday your letter from Liverpool written
just before you sailed, and thought as I was just sending off
a letter to Aunt Mary would write you a few lines which you
will probably get in New York. I suppose you are now in
the middle of the ocean. I don't exactly envy you but I don't
doubt you are in pleasanter company than I am, and hope
you will have a safe journey.

The weather continues very cold here, and although now
that we have got a stove we manage to keep warm, we
really suffer when we are taking our meals. An American lady
by the name of Bonney, who was introduced to us by Mr.
Clarke, called yesterday and we are going with her some day to
see the king's palace, which is said to be a remarkably handsome
one. You didn't tell me anything about Westminster Abbey.
Is it like anything else we have seen.'* Do write from New
York and tell me all the people you see and all the news.

I am drinking beer now in hopes to get some flesh on my
bones, and like it much better than wine, for I don't derive
much satisfaction from the food, as to nourishment. Mr.
Clarke has gone away to Vienna for three weeks, and we are
more lonesome than ever — said perhaps he would write us
once. You ought to see my hands, they look as if I had done
kitchen work, for the last week, and as it is the fashion among
all classes to have chilblains I expect to see mine all swollen
up with them some morning when I awake. I do hope you
and mother will come over next summer for me. If mother
can make up her mind to cross the sea, it will do her good, and
above all things do take time to write me once a week and
oftener if you can. The time seems so long between. So
with love to all inquiring friends, good-bye my darling Father,

M. D. R.

ITALY

Milan, Feb. 20th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Alvira,

I have just a half hour in which to write you a few words,
having to take a music lesson and after that a French lesson
and after that get ready to go to the Opera.

We suffer dreadfully with homesickness here, being so
alone. Father is probably in America now — left here five
weeks ago. Milan is a beautiful city. The public gardens and
promenade are magnificent. The carnival commences very
soon and we are going to one of the Masked Balls at La Scala,
the great Opera house. Also think of going to the Court Ball.
The King Victor Emmanuel gives this year, one ball at Turin,
one here and one in Florence, at the different Palaces. We shall
go if the Consul gets back from Vienna in time to take us.

Will write you all about it when it is all over. We find
the climate very debilitating and are very weak from it. So
much study keeps us confined to the house and we don't get
exercise enough, which is very necessary here, they say.
While we were travelling we were on our feet all day long
and although we got tired we slept well and had good appetites.
With love to all the family,

Yr. aff. niece, M. D. R.

Milan, Feb. 28th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary,

It is now six weeks or more since I have heard a word
from St. Louis! All the time that we were travelling I used
to sit up at night after a hard day's work and deprived my-
self of sleep that I might keep you informed as to our where-
abouts, and since we have settled here I have written regularly
once a week, but I have made up my mind not to do it any
more and shall not write until I have had some letters from
home, so you may have to wait some months before you hear
anything from me.

Father must be in New York by this time, as he left here
five weeks ago. If he hadn't taken pity on me and written
as often as he did I don't know what I should have done.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The climate proves very debilitating for us. I never felt
so weak in my life. When we first came we set ourselves to
work too hard and did not take enough exercise, and then the
food is not so strengthening as ours, their meat being cooked
into perfect strings. They say it is necessary here to take a
great deal of exercise to keep well and we can't find time to
do it and study much.

My singing teacher won"t let me practise over two hours a
day, thinks it would tire me too much and weaken my voice.
The weather is gradually softening — to-day being quite warm.
This afternoon we went to walk in the Public Gardens, and
it was quite like spring. I wish you could see them. At the
end of the principal street, the Corso Venizia, at the left is
a beautiful Park and running along it at right angles with
the Corso and at a much higher elevation is the Bastione or
Rampart, a very long street and very wide, and with wide
side walks with four i*ows of tall trees running the whole
length, one on each side of each pavement. Every afternoon
in pleasant weather and on Sundays especially (Sunday being
the great day for amusement here) all the elite of Milan drive
and walk in this place, and it is really a fine sight.

We are invited to some private theatricals by the English
Consul this week — shall enjoy them much. There will be
three masked Balls at "La Scala" and we expect to go to one
of them in mask, but don't know how we shall go exactly and
in three weeks we are going. I expect to go to the Court
Ball at the Royal Palace. Victor Emmanuel gives three balls
a year, one at Turin, one here and one at Florence. We
may go with Mr. Clarke, but are not certain. I don't want
to get a new dress if I can help it. I can't wear my blue
silk because no one can go without a train. We shan't be
able to talk with any one so don't anticipate much pleas-
ure. Last evening our French and Italian teacher came to
call on us with her brother, who can't speak a word of English,
and so we had to maintain a conversation in French, which
is a very trying affair. However, I am determined to learn
to speak well, even if it does prove mortifying sometimes.

ITALY

I have indulged in a pair of jet earrings and put them on
with a gold wire which passes round behind the ear and looks
exactly as if the ear were bored. I find Russia leather work
is as cheap here as in Vienna and think I shall get some
before we leave.

In great haste,

Yr. aff. niece, M. D. R.

You must talk over with Father and ascertain if I can get
some bronzes in Munich. It seems too bad to come home
without something nice for the house.

Milan, March 9th, 1870.
Dear Father,

I received two or three days ago your very short letter
from New York, telling me that you had arrived and nothing
more. Why couldn't you have written me a good long letter
telling me all about your passage and about getting through
the custom house.'' Lolly writes an amazingly good letter for
her age. It is lovely weather and warm sun so we are about
done with a fire.

I want to tell you all about the Carnival and the Balls, but
I hardly know where to commence. A week ago to-night was
the first mask ball in the Scala. We went with Mr. Menni in
black dominoes trimmed with blue, and blue masks and met the
Heischs there. All the seats were removed from the Parterre
and a flight of steps led up to the stage. The heat and crowd
were something terrible and all the boxes were filled with
people in full dress with the most elegant jewels and diamond
coronets. There were people in every sort of costume that one
could imagine. Very soon after our arrival there was a tourna-
ment and the men had feathers nearly a yard long sticking up
from the tops of their hats and were supposed to be mounted
on horses and they had a drill of soldiers in linen jackets repre-
senting the Austrians whom the Milanese hate cordially.

There were women with next to no dresses at all on and we
were very much astonished while standing near a box to see
a man and girl come along and the man leaped up into the box
5 65

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD .

and pulled the girl up after him. In short we saw a good many
sights that we never saw before and shall come from Europe
somewhat wiser on some points than before we came. When
we came away they were eating suppers in all the boxes — it
was as beautiful a sight as I shall ever see. We did not go
until one o'clock and returned at four.

All day Thursday, Friday and Saturday the streets were
thronged with people celebrating the Carnival. The Grand
Processions take place on the Corso and are something like
ours, that is there are all the different journals, etc. represented.
We were much amused to see an immense pair of bellows walk-
ing along without any visible support, and all the newspapers
were dressed as immense carrots with the roots sticking up in
the air. One wagon came along fixed as a pudding with cakes
round the edge of the platter. But the best of all was a com-
pany of men in a wagon who represented the silk manufacture.
The wagon was led by six horses, each one mounted by a man
completely hidden by a cocoon, and the wagon itself was
covered w^th representations of worms in the different stages,
and all the men were dressed as worms, white with black stripes.

While everybody and anybody threw what they call con-
fetti, which are bonbons done up in fancy papers and conandoli,
a species of lime, which they carry round in the carriages by
the bushel, each one being armed with a wooden ladle with
which they scatter the lime over everyone within reach.
Besides the companies there were private and public carriages
filled with people in fancy costumes, masked, who threw con-
fetti and "conandoli" as fast as they could. Sunday afternoon
there was a parade of all the different kinds of officers on horse-
back, on the Bastione, which was very interesting. Some of
them had on scarlet coats and short clothes and powdered wigs.

On Saturday night we went to the Court Ball at the King's
Palace with Mr. Clarke. We both looked well and didn't feel
at all ashamed of ourselves beside the nobility with all their
jewels. The whole Piazza in front of the Palace, which is that
large building to the right of the Cathedral as you stand facing

ITALY

it, was as light as day, with a thousand gas Hghts erected for
the occasion, and filled with a dense crowd of people through
which we had to drive to get inside of the Palace. Arrived at
the foot of the staircase which was carpeted down to the car-
riages, we found a line of soldiers on each side, and when we
reached the antechambers, which had also a line of soldiers
all the way around it, we had to take off our things there,
there being no private dressing room. We then walked through
five or six rooms before coming to the grand salon where the
dancing was going on. This was crowded and heated to an
extent that was almost unendurable, and the gallery which
goes all around was also crowded with people who get
tickets to come in. The whole ceiling seemed one mass of
light on account of the number of chandeliers all of crystal
and candles. They illumine here as in France only with
candles because they think they give a more becoming light.
The room was also surrounded with two rows of cushioned
stools for the ladies and the place for dancing was not large.

The King Victor Emmanuel stood at one end of the room
with the Mayor and Prince Amadeo, the second son, and a few
ladies were seated near him of the highest nobility with very
elegant lace and diamonds but as ugly as sin. I thought the
King very ugly and fierce looking, looked as if he was bored to
death standing in one corner with his arms folded. He left the
ball early and went away on the cars that night. He is not
liked at all here, they think he wants to take away everything
of importance from Milan. They say he would move the
Cathedral to Turin if he could.

We danced several times at the ball with an Italian and
were very much noticed, all the old women were looking at us
through their glasses. There were some very fine people
there I believe but can't remember their names, but they
were not well dressed at all, though they had elegant laces
and jewels. There was one lady there with 250 thousand
dollars' worth of diamonds on, but they did not make her look
any better. We came away from the Ball at half past twelve
on account of its being Sunday morning.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Last night we went to a little company at the Hotel
Grande Bretagne given by Mrs. Heisch, and had a very nice
time. They expect to leave here the last of next week for the
Lakes, Como and Maggiore, and will go soon to England. We
have an appointment to walk with Mr. Clarke, for everybody
says we must not walk alone and it is very disagreeable, you
can have no idea of the wickedness and depravity of Italian
men until you have lived a while in an Italian city — it is
terrible. I wouldn't trust some girls here three days.

The wxather is becoming much warmer already and the
gardens are quite green. I wish you could have seen more of
Milan than you did. I hope you will keep me posted as to
your intentions in regard to coming over here next summer.
I hope and pray you will, with mother.

My black silk dress is the meanest thing I ever bought, it
is worn out all over. I shall have to get something before
I leave here.

I said I shouldn't write home again for two months, but I
find I can't stand it to go without any communication. I find
that the gloves here in Milan are much nicer than those w^e sent
from Naples. You can get five button gloves for a dollar and
shorter ones less, and they are much nicer kid than the others.
When I leave I think I shall buy some to carry with me.

With much love to all.

Your afT. daughter, M. D. R.

Milan, March isth, 1870.
Not having gotten this letter off yet I thought I would
open it to say a few words. Yesterday was the King's birthday
and we went to hear the Te Deum performed in the Cathedral.
The Prefect and all the high civic officers were there in full
dress but the church was so large that the music made almost
no impression at all. The square in front was filled with
soldiers and the band played splendidly all the time the cere-
mony was going on inside. When we came out we found the
Reeps, those people who were on the steamer from Genoa to

ITALY

Naples, you remember, and who were at the hotel at Naples
with us and we are going to see them to-night at Hotel
de Milan on the Via del Giardino.

We are having a little more cold weather for a few days but it
is very clear and bracing. I am almost destitute in the matter of
outside garments having nothing to put on between a cloak lined
with fur and a lace shawl, and my hat is perfectly gone up. No
one can know what sort of a feeling it is until they come into a
foreign country entirely alone. Good bye and don't forget
to write soon.

Milan, March 17th, 1870.
Dear Grandmother,

I am so homesick to-day I don't know what to do with
myself, never knew before what a home-baby I could be. But
you can form no idea of what it is to be so very far away from
home and friends and to be among foreigners and people who
have no ideas whatever in common with you and never to hear
your own language spoken — it is terrible. We have had de-
lightful weather here until lately and now it is quite cold again,
but it cannot last long for the trees are all ready to leaf out
and before long everything will be green. The public gardens
here are very beautiful and almost every day we go to take a
walk there and there is a very beautiful street which runs all
around the city at a higher level and is planted with four rows
of trees, the finest place to ride and walk in that I ever saw.
At first we did not walk much because we were so anxious to
study, but we found our health began to suffer and since have
taken a long walk almost every day.

I wrote all about the Carnival and the two Balls we attended
in a long letter home which I suppose they will send you. Last
Monday we went in the morning to hear theTeDeum performed
in honor of the King's birthday and in the evening Mr. Clarke
came and took us to the large Cafe in theGalleria, which was
illuminated for the occasion. The Galleria is a very large struc-
ture built in the shape of a cross and is like a covered street
and lined with elegant buildings three and four stories high.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The roof is all in glass and at the intersection is a large dome
and on grand occasions this dome is illuminated. There are
several very fine cafes in this Gallcria where they have free con-
certs. You would undoubtedly think them very strange places.
At night they are filled to overflowing with crowds of citizens
and officers seated at little round tables and all of them smok-
ing, for the men smoke everywhere. And in the midst of all
this noise and smoke we go and take some coflfee or ices, but
never alone, always with Mr. Menni or Mr. Clarke.

We find things very cheap here for a nice pair of fine kid
boots with buttons I have to pay only three dollars and a half.
At home I would have to pay just twice as much. You can
get beautiful gloves here with five buttons for 3 francs and
a half and the 2 buttons cheaper. They are much better than
the Naples gloves that I sent home.

I think if you had to sit down one day to macaroni soup,
then two different kinds of meat cooked with garlic and onions
without a single vegetable, and chestnuts for dessert, you would
think you were well off at present in the way of things
to eat. That was what we found when we first came and
the change affected our health so much that we had to tell them
we must have beefsteak rare and some potatoes and lately we
have had cauliflower and by dint of telling them how to cook
things we get along better now, but we have had but one thing
for dessert since we came. As regular as night comes whipped
cream and chestnuts. We are so tired of it. Yesterday I
received a few lines from Father written with pencil to say he
had arrived at home.

With much love.

Your aflF. granddaughter,

M. D. R.

Milan, March 27th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary:

Last Monday I received yours and father's letters. I had
not heard from any of you for some time and was very glad

ITALY

to get them. I have not much news to tell you, everything
goes on in the same old humdrum way. I get rather discour-
aged sometimes in thinking that I am not accomplishing very
much, although I do as much as I can, and when I think how
short a time I can spend here I can't expect to accomplish
very much.

The other day we went with Mr. Clarke to a service held
in the church of the grand Hospital in commemoration of
the burial of those who were killed during what is called the
"five days of Milan" in 1848. We couldn't have gotten in
except for Mr. Clarke as the church is very small and there
were hundreds waiting outside. The church was round and
built with a dome and from the centre of this dome to walls on
all sides was arranged black drapery with silver stars and
wide silver border and red, white and green lamps were sus-
pended from the centre of the dome. There was one part of
the service very beautiful. That was when the band which
was stationed behind the high altar played a very sweet and
mournful air while the priest elevated the Host.

The other day we had a delightful walk in the country —
went out by the Porta Vittoria. Father can tell you that the
country round Milan is nothing but a series of fields hedged in
by ditches filled by running water and planted on both sides
with trees. On the edges of these we found violets like our
cultivated violets and buttercups and daisies and wood
anemones and myrtle, all wild, and all the trunks of the trees
are covered with ivy. We came home laden with flowers and
have pressed some for our books. To-morrow afternoon we
are going with the Heischs out in the country somewhere to
hear a remarkable echo.

A few days ago we had a snow storm but it very soon
ended and disappeared though the mountains are covered
almost down to their bases. The view of the mountains
from here is very grand. They say from the top of the
Cathedral one can see Mont Blanc, so we are going up early
some morning to take our breakfast there, that being the best

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

time to see the mountains. We went to church this morning
as usual, and heard a very good sermon from Mr. Garrard.
A young American artist from Boston, who has been singing
near Rome this winter, brought us some of Henry Ward
Beecher's sermons, which we read this evening. At dinner
to-day we got into quite a warm discussion with the Professor
in regard to observing the Sabbath. As I was obliged to talk
all the time in the French language I could not say all I wanted
to, though when I first came here I should have been aston-
ished to hear myself talk so fluently. Has father displayed his
French as yet for your benefit.'* We used to have a great deal
of fun over it.

They have some very fine books here, beautifully illus-
trated, at very low prices. I shall buy the "Promessi Sposi"
and "My Prisons" by Silvio Pellico, whose prison we saw
in Venice in the Ducal Palace. They have also Dante's
three works, the Inferno, Purgatorio and Paradiso, illustrated
by GustaveDore, but I think I will buy them in London trans-
lated into English by Longfellow. By the way, we heard that
Longfellow is coming here very soon. The Italians think
everything of his poetry and praise very highly his translation
of Dante.

I had my pictures taken last week but have not yet seen
the proofs — as soon as I get them will send them home.* I want
you to keep me posted all the time in regard to any of the folks
coming over this summer. I thought I wrote you what I wore
to the reception in Paris. I wore my long black silk and Roman
sash and my dress open in the neck. The people were dressed
in all sorts of ways, some in black silks^some in full dress and
some in plain short silks and some young ladies in light short
silks and white swiss overdresses. I remember they had for
the supper, coffee, tea and chocolate and all kinds of cakes and
ices in fancy forms. They had a peculiar kind of soft cake
made with fruit and wine. In Rome I wore my black silk with
my black lace shawl arranged as an overdress, and scarlet

*The frontispiece is a reproduction of a miniature painted from one of the photograpiis.

ITALY

sash covered with black lace and open at the neck, and my
coral and red flowers.

I expect to get a good deal of wear out of my light blue
silk this summer. My black silk short dress is all worn out
and I am quite destitute but dislike so much to have any-
thing made here; I shall try to get along without. I bought
Jimmy the other day one of every kind of stamp they use here
in Milan, and I have asked Mr. Clarke to save all his stamps
for me and will send them to him. There is a little boy here
in this family who is afflicted with kleptomania and he is
getting so bad they talk of sending him off for a sailor.
Don't forget to write often and I will do the same.

Your aff. niece,

M. D. R.

Milan, Monday, April 4th, 1870.
Dear Father and Mother,

I intended to write to you yesterday but was sick in bed
all day so put it off. During the day I received your letters
telling me about the party. It must have been quite an affair
from what you say. How I wish I could have been there!
You must have had a good many young people there.

It is getting warm and pleasant here now and the Americans
are beginning to come. Last Friday as Emma and I were walk-
ing in the street with Mr. Clarke whom should we meet but
the Mr. Jones we met at the Grand Hotel in Paris, not the one
we saw at Florence. Saturday as I was coming home from a
lesson at Lamperti's I met Conklin and brought him home
with me and we went to the Scala that night to hear the new
opera, II Guarany, and he made an appointment to go walking
with us yesterday afternoon.

The other day I bought you one of those black embroidered
shawls — while I was about it I thought I would get you a hand-
some one and this is as handsome a one as I ever saw. It is
of very fine cashmere, extra size and the embroidery is very
fine. They wear lace on them a good deal and perhaps that old

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Puschia lace of yours. I paid 60 francs for it, or 1 2 dollars, but
that is cheap for it. I am sorry my pictures are not yet finished
so that I might send them in this letter. I expect to have them
Wednesday and will send them immediately. They are the
best I ever had taken. I think before I go away I shall order
some more as it is so difficult for me to get a good picture.

There is a good deal of sickness in the city we hear. Mr.
Jones told us of a very sad case of a young lady from Boston
who died at the hotel du Louvre at Naples. She had been
travelling with the Cushings and they had left her there to wait
for some others with whom she expected to go to Egypt, and
while waiting she was taken sick with fever. Mr. Jones hearing
of it went to offer his services but the hotel people wouldn't let
him in — told him she was much better and would soon be out.
Two days after she was dead and he heard that she was deliri-
ous and used a knife on herself. There was also another case
in Rome. A young gentleman and his three sisters from
Philadelphia were there and one of the sisters took the fever
and died and it aifected the brother's mind, so they couldn't
induce him to leave on account of his own health and in two
weeks from the time his sister died, he died also.

There is a family from Boston by the name of Bonney
living here, of whom I have made mention before, I think.
The oldest daughter is very sick and the doctor who attends
her says it is a wonder to him that all the Americans who
come here don't die, that they make too much of a change
in their diet and ways of living, besides the change of climate.
However, now we live very well. We have excellent bread
and butter and good rare beefsteak, nearly every day, and
chicken and salad. We told the lady of the house that we
couldn't live on the Italian dishes and since the fare has
changed we are much better.

The season in London is from May to August and we
were saying perhaps it would be better to go straight to
England from here and meet Mr. Greeley in Paris and be
in London while there is something going on and then come

ITALY

back to Germany and Switzerland and Holland and do Paris
the last thing, sailing from Havre. I don't think it is nice
for ladies to travel alone. It would be a grand thing if I
could learn to speak Italian and French and German fluently.
But although it would be a great advantage mentally, I don't
feel as if I could stay away from home among strangers so long.
I want you to keep me posted all the time in regard to what
you intend. If mother comes don't bring more than a small
trunk with a few things, three or four of your most suitable
dresses, just enough to wear out in travelling, and get new things
to bring home. The cost of extra baggage is enormous and in
travelling one doesn't need a variety of dresses. Tell Jimmy
and Lolly we have a tame hen here who walks all around the
table when we are at dinner and fights with the cat. The hen
flew over my head one day when it got very angry, the cat is
afraid of it. Neither of the animals is remarkably neat.
Wiuh love to all from

Your aff. daughter, M. D. R.

Milan, April loth, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary,

I was so disappointed not to find any letters on my return
from church to-day.

My pictures came a few days ago and I enclose two of them.
I am very much pleased with them — think before I leave shall
order another dozen though I expect to have some taken at
Labitzky's in Paris, a famous place. I am so very hard to take.

We have seen no more Americans since last week. I went to
church alone this morning and found it quite full of strangers,
but they were all English. The week has passed by without
anything occurring. I am trying to learn as much as possible
while taking lessons in French and Italian. Have changed my
music teacher — he was too lazy, did not come regularly. As
yet have taken only one lesson of my new teacher, Lamperti,
who has the greatest reputation of any one here. I bought
half a dozen tickets at twelve francs apiece. Shall only use

EIGHT JOURNFA S ABROAD

one a week till they are gone and after, Mr. Menni thinks he
can get him to give me two a week for twenty francs. I have
to pay a little more because I take my lessons alone. For his
ordinary lessons he charges 8 francs and they are very strange
affairs. From twelve o'clock till five every day he is in his par-
lour and as many as twenty people come to take their lessons.
He takes them in turn as they come (has a lady to play the
accompaniments) and gives each lo or 15 minutes on exercises
and after he is through with the exercises he goes back to the
first one and gives them another 15 minutes on cavatinas.

There are men as well as women who take their lessons
and it is a rendezvous for all the artists in the city. They all
smoke and talk as loud as they can and walk up and down
the room. For my part I don't know how they manage to
sing in such a hubbub. My voice seems weaker than it used
to, perhaps because I am studying those exercises calculated
to make it agile and flexible. We are very much astonished
to find how the money goes, but when I consider that we are
paying for our board and lessons and everything we have it is
certainly cheap.

I have made a hat of thread lace on a thin frame and put
violet ostrich tips on. The whole cost me 30^ francs or 8
dollars and a half, greenbacks. Dress goods here in Milan
cost as much as in America and thread and Valenciennes
lace more. I sha'nt buy any dress while I am here, tho I
am sadly in need of one. Our washing is certainly very cheap,
never over 25 cts. a dozen, and when I went to the ball, I had
some things done up that would have cost fully two dollars
and I only paid about 60 cents. The Carnival and the two balls
are what took the money out of our pockets.

I never would advise any one to come to Europe to travel

in the winter — summer or spring is the time to come, when one

can be comfortable. We could go from England to Holland and

Germany and Switzerland. It would give us a better chance

to see all the countries in a pleasant season and save carrying

all our baggage through England from Paris for we should return

ITALY

by the French Hne. How I dread crossing the ocean again, it
seems as if I could never get up courage to do it!

What do you think about my getting some coral earrings
to match my set. I would like to have some. It is still quite
cool here — not a strawberry as yet. I have no doubt it is
warmer in St. Louis than here. The Prince Umberto and
Princess Marguerite are here now and will drive on the Bas-
tione this afternoon, but we don't either of us feel very well
and don't think we'll go out.

Hoping you will like the pictures and will write soon, I am,

Your aff. niece, M. D. R.

Milan, April 24th, 1870,

Sunday Afternoon.
Dear Father,

Your letter dated Feb. 5th arrived yesterday and very glad
I was to get it, also in the same envelope one from Aunt Mary.
Since I last wrote you, which was two weeks ago, I have had
two letters from you. Last Sunday I got all ready to write
in the afternoon when Mr. Clarke came for us to go walking
with him on the Bastione, and I had to give it up.

Last Sunday being Easter we went to hear service in the
Cathedral. It was crowded with strangers and the music was
superb, two full choirs placed on opposite sides of the high
altar. The Arch-Bishop performed the service and it was
quite as grand in its way as the ceremonies at Rome. You
remember probably the two pulpits, one on each side of the
altar. It was rather comical to hear the different priests who
climbed up into one of the pulpits and read out of a book
for two or three minutes and then retired, the people not
paying the slightest attention to them, in fact I don't think
half of them knew they were there until they were gone, but
finally the Arch Bishop, whom we could distinguish by his
wearing a jewelled mitre, ascended into the pulpit, accom-
panied by a long row of priests and candles and preached a
sermon in Italian. When the Host was elevated and all the

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

people were on their knees the great bell of the Cathedral was
rung and one of the choir with a magnificent baritone voice
sang a solo. I never heard anything so beautiful.

In the afternoon we went up into the public gardens
and heard the band play and then on to the Bastione where
we walked until the Princess Marguerite arrived. She is a
daughter of the Duchess of Genoa and has married the oldest
son of Victor Emmanuel, Principe Umberto, and will be future
Queen of Italy. When she made her appearance on the Bas-
tione she had one outrider on horseback, who went before the
carriage. She was dressed in a suit of wine-colored velvet and
bonnet to match and the footmen and trappings of the horses
were in scarlet. A lady and gentleman of her suite were with

her, while her husband, who never
is seen with her, was in another
carriage with an officer. They
have only been married one year.
Sunday evening while we were
sitting quietly in our room who
should come in but Mr. Clarke
and Gen. Fiske. It seems Mr.
Clarke was calling at the Hotel
Cavour and was accidentally in-
troduced to Gen. Fiske, who told
him he had been hunting all day
for two American young ladies
and mentioned our names, and
Mr. Clarke brought him immedi-
ately to the house. Wewere so de-
lighted to see him and he seemed
equally delighted to see us and in-
vited us to go with his party the next day to Lake Como, and
we accepted. So at four o'clock the next morning he came for
us and we started off in great spirits. There were Major Sealy
of New York, and Mr. Murphy, the Consul General at Frank-
fort, Germany. The latter's wife was to have gone but was sick.

PRINCESS MARGUERITE
Now Dowager Queen of Italy

ITALY

After an hour and a half by rail we arrived at Camerlata,
and the Courier got places for the General, Emma and myself
in the banquette of the diligence, in which we went to Como,
a delightful ride. As the mountains opened out before us
they seemed like a high impenetrable wall. As we rode into
the town we passed under a remarkable old gateway quite
ancient in appearance and higher than any of the houses in
the town. The openings were open arches and the whole
overgrown with moss and weeds. In passing through the
town we saw the Cathedral, a very beautiful church in
white marble, covered with elaborate carvings of angels and
saints. Arriving at the Lake we all went on board the steamer
lying at the wharf and in a few minutes were off. We were
quite a jolly party, all of us except Major Sealy being quite
lively and the courier not the least so.

The Lake is more like a river than a lake in appearance,
being quite narrow — nothing can exceed the beauty of the
shores, mountains rising in every direction abruptly from the
water, and at every turn we could see the more distant and
higher ones covered with snow, while everything around us was
of a vivid green. The shores were lined with beautiful villas
and groves and walks. One had a stone wall coming out into
the water in a curve and mounted with statues. After about
an hour and a half we arrived at the town of Cadenabbia, and
took our breakfast there.

In the meantime we had made the acquaintance of two
American gentlemen on the boat. They turned out to be two
rebel officers from Savannah. General Fiske knew the father of
one of them and said they were a very fine family and he was
a Union man. They were going to make the tour of the lakes
Lugano, Maggiore and Como, had just returned from Con-
stantinople and Athens. We had a nice breakfast at Caden-
abbia and then visited the villa of Princess Carlotta. There
we found a Magdalen by Canova and a bas-relief by Thorwald-
sen in marble, executed at immense cost — also some pictures
that I did not much like.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The gardens were very beautiful — saw quantities of large
camellia trees, one mass of exquisite flowers. After that we
took a boat and went to the town of Bellaggio to visit the villa
Serbelloni. We had quite a climb through the town and after
we reached the grounds we had to make a very steep ascent
to get a view of the three Lakes. In all our travels I never
have seen anything equal to Lake Como in beauty. The water
looked like velvet and the outlines of the mountains against
the sky were too beautiful for my pen to do justice to them.
At Bellaggio they have work in olive wood to sell. We bought
some of those travelling bottles in wood cases for one and two
francs apiece, and about two o'clock took the steamboat back
to Como and arrived in Milan at about six o'clock. The two
young Americans came back with us and General Fiske went
away the next morning, but they stayed until Friday morning,
when they left for Spain. While they were here we went with
them to the French Comedy and saw the Princess there. They
expect to be in Switzerland and Germany next summer and
we may possibly meet them.

Gen. Fiske was very kind and generous. He would not let
us pay any of our expenses for the trip to Lake Como, although
we insisted. I hope you will call and thank him immediately
on his return; there are not many men who would have done
it, however rich they might be. He has bought the greatest
quantities of everything at every place he visited and sends
the boxes continually to Paris.

A Russian and his wife who are boarding here now have

been telling us what a delightful trip one can make to St.

Petersburg and back in three weeks, and I do hope you and

mother will come over. We are inclined to think it w^ould be

better to go to England first instead of putting it off until the

last thing. I don't see why you can't come over this year; as

the summer is the pleasantest time to be over here I should

think you had better come in June, or if not, I can travel until

you do come. The trip we have been talking of is to go by

steamboat after visiting England and Scotland to Stockholm

ITALY

and from thence touching at several ports to St. Petersburg
and to Moscow, then back to St. Petersburg again and by
rail to Konigsberg and Berlin. This man says there is no
country in Europe to compare to Sweden and for my part I
would rather see some things that all the world has not seen
than to explore thoroughly every little town in Germany and
Italy. For instance in visiting Switzerland one can see just
as much in two weeks as in four, for there is little variety in
the scenery.

We were the biggest fools ever known not to have gone
to Constantinople and Greece. We could have gone from
Trieste there and back in two weeks and we could go the route
I have described on leaving England, by Stockholm and St.
Petersburg, to Moscow and through Caucasia to Constanti-
nople, to Vienna, Athens and to Trieste in six weeks. I would
give anything to be able to make these trips. I don't see why
it isn't possible. Would much rather see less of Europe.

I think I have heard from Frank Rosengarten several times.
He sails from Liverpool for America the 30th of this month,
he wrote me. I wish you would send to his father for me the
value of 46 francs in greenbacks, for those Roman scarfs he
bought for me. It will be eleven dollars and a half, I think.
I should think it would not be much longer before we leave
here, about five weeks. If we don't go to Paris first I shall
send and have a suit made, or if I do go there shall buy it
myself, a black silk one, my old one is completely gone.

It is a hard life to live here tho one doesn't mind it so much
except when one gets homesick.

With much love to you all and to all inquiring friends.
Your loving daughter, M. D. R.

Milan, May 15th, 1870.
Dear Lolly;

This morning I went to church as usual but saw no Ameri-
cans, all the strangers being English. Mr. Garrard is not well
enough to preach, although he insists upon coming to church,

6 81

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and tries to put on his robes and enter the chancel, but the
doctor will not allow it. We sent him a bouquet about a week
ago. You can buy a bouquet as large around as a large dining
plate for one franc. It is astonishing how cheap flowers are.
You will think when I tell you how cheap things are that it is
astonishing how I manage to spend so much money. It is
because I have to pay for everything and the demand is con-
stant, some little thing being necessary every day. I am tak-
ing now three singing lessons a week for which I pay 12 francs
the lesson. A German lady who has been singing in Berlin
for several years boards in the same house with us, and as she
takes also three lessons a week we manage to go every day
together and take an hour lesson, so I take one half-hour and
she the other, much better for both of us as we really get the
value of six lessons instead of three. Lamperti keeps me en-
tirely upon the exercises so I am not learninganything new but
intend to take a few songs just before I go. I think I shall buy
some operas here, but they will weigh down my trunk amaz-
ingly. Don't know whether I shall buy any Italian books or
not, have not yet been to price them. I would rather have such
things as those for souvenirs of Europe than merely clothes.

The other day Mad. Griin, the German lady I spoke of,
and I went into a little vegetable store to buy some eggs to
drink before going to our music lesson, and were much amused
to see an image of the Virgin with a nasty little oil lamp burn-
ing before it and beside it anything but an elegant picture of
a danseuse. They are the most inconsistent people here, you
would think from the number of the Madonnas and the faith-
fulness with which they keep the lamps burning before them
that they were the most religious people in the world, whereas
they haven't a single idea of religion.

We took one day of last week to go to Monza to see the

King's park. We left here at one o'clock and drove the distance,

ten miles, arriving at the town at about half past 2, and drove

through the park for an hour or so. The Prince and Princess

spend a few weeks here every summer at a castle near the park.

ITALY

The public park Is very large and beautiful, nothing more than
a series of woods cultivated and kept In perfect order. The turf
was dotted with forget-me-not and all sorts of beautiful wild
flowers. And there were beautiful little streams and rustic
bridges. It all looked so delightful and secluded that Emma
and I and little Rose from the house, whom we took with us,
took off our shoes and stockings and went In wading. I
guess there are not many people who have done that In a
King's Park.

At live o'clock we took our dinner In the garden of an
albergo. In the midst of the park, and then had a delightful
ride home through the twilight. As we were riding along who
should we meet but the Prince on horseback and all alone,
going out to Monza to see the Bonognlnl, a lady friend for
whom he neglects his wife shamefully, although she Is very
pretty and they have only been married a year.

We made a desperate effort Friday and went to the Ambro-
sian Library, where we saw a few line paintings and quantities
of sketches by all the celebrated painters. Among the cartoons
was one of Raphael's of the School of Athens. We saw the
correspondence of Lucretia Borgia and Cardinal Bunbo, also
letters by Cardinal Borromeo and Leonardo da Vinci, and some
very valuable illuminated volumes in Latin and Hebrew, also
two books of the Koran. Attached to Lucretia Borgia's letters
was a lock of her hair, very light, and of a dull yellow tinge, per-
haps in the sunlight it may be golden, but there it appeared
of a dull tinge, though pretty.

Mr. Clarke invited us the other day to coffee at his house,
also Mad. Griin and her husband who is a Russian, and says he
Is going to ask us some time to eat strawberries. You would
laugh if you could see the berries they have here. They are
about the size of peas and have not nearly so much flavor as
ours, and they eat them here some with lemon juice and sugar
and others with wine. They look at us in astonishment when
we put sugar and cream on them.

We had thought some of going to Stuttgart if It got too

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

warm here. I suppose by this time you have made up your
minds whether you will come or not. I shall hope to hear soon.
If you do not I don't want to come home. I can live cheaper
here than at home and can be learning so much more — besides
it is better for my health to live as quietly as we have done this
winter. Milan is looking very beautiful now, the public gar-
dens are one mass of flowers and the Bastione is delightfully
shaded. We often go out there and sit down and look at the
mountains, which, although it is hot here, are covered with
snow and make one cool just to look at them. The number
of babies that I hear accounts of is something prodigious.

Give my love to all my friends. I believe it is easier to
spend five francs than a dollar, for they do fly away so. I
hardly expect to hear from you after you get this, in Milan,
for we shall probably have left. However you might hazard
writing once more to Ulrich.

With love to all inquiring friends, and much love for you
all, I am. Your aff. sister, M. D. R.

Have you kept all my letters.^ The stamps are for Jimmy
and the four together are Russian.

The other day Emma and I went up on the Bastione and
sat down on one of the benches there, and very soon the Prin-
cess drove past. In the course of a half an hour she passed
many times and seeing that we were not Italians she seemed
to notice us and called the attention of the lady and gentleman
who were with her to us. A few days after we saw her again
and she smiled at us and they all looked after us. She is always
with the same gentleman and lady. I wouldn't change places
with her for a good deal.

Milan, May i8th, 1870.
Dear Mother,

I have time only to write a few words. Bring your black
satin, you may have an opportunity to wear it. Don't buy a
single thing in America. Anything will do to come over on the
steamer and you can buy a travelling dress in Paris for one-

ITALY

half of what you can get It at home. Of all things don't get a
waterproof suit, they are the meanest things in the world.
They stick to everything and catch all the dust and dirt. As
to the wrapper, I scarcely wore mine at all on the steamer.
I have worn it more since I came here when I have been sick,
but I should think there would be very little use for one in the
summer. On the steamer all that I wore was my suit of flannel
and flannel petticoat and then put one of the blankets over
me and suflFered more at night with heat and want of air than
I did with cold, but in the day time it was difficult to keep
warm. A waterproof cloak serves for a rainy day. For Switz-
erland one needs only two dresses, one to ride on the mules
and the other to dress up in. Take my advice and don't get
anything but shoes to bring with you and bring enough of them
and comfortable ones. I should think you had better get a
hat in Paris to travel in. It will be more comfortable and it
is pretty warm work to go sightseeing all day. I feel quite
sick to-day. It is only the i8th of May and yet the heat is
like with us in July. We find our rooms very warm. I don't
know if we can stand it another month but will try. The
missionary that father writes about is this very Mr. Clarke
himself. He used to be a missionary at Constantinople also.
Don't bring any more stuff with you than you can help. I
had to leave half of mine in Paris.

In great haste.

Your aff. daughter,

M. D. R.

SWITZERLAND

Challly, Lausanne, Switzerland
June yth, 1870.
La Rosiere.
Dear Aunt Mary,

You will be rather astonished to find that we have changed
quarters, but the heat became intolerable in Milan so that we
couldn't sleep at night and lost our appetites so we concluded
to come here, where Mary Perry spent some time last fall on
the shore of Lake Geneva, not far from the Paris route, so we
can be ready to start for Paris on short notice. I have already
sent our address to Bowles and Bros., so that father will find
it as soon as he arrives.

We left Milan the last Sunday night of May. Mr. Clarke,
Mde. Griin and Mr. Sadler and two Italian Professors, Patuzzi
and Castelfranco, came to see us off. We felt quite badly when
it came to leaving as we had been there so long, we had begun
to feel quite at home. Another Italian by the name of
Garavaglia whom we knew quite well went to Turin at the
same time we did. In the afternoon he sent us each an
enormous bouquet with small notes in English. We laughed
over them until we cried, so you can imagine they were amusing.

We arrived at Turin that night at eleven o'clock and
went to the Hotel Trombetta, and the next morning early
started off to see the sights with Mr. Garavaglia. At break-
fast we had made up our minds to go to the church of La
Superga, situated at some distance from Turin, on the top
of a high hill or rather mountain. Underneath this church
are the tombs of all the Kings of Savoy. So we took a carriage

SWITZERLAND

at about eleven o'clock, after having walked through some of
the principal streets, and drove to the foot of the hill. Mr. G.
had informed us that it was necessary to go on "aback," as
he expressed, so we were quite prepared to see the three don-
keys awaiting us. They are such comical objects, and one does
look so funny on them. I think you would all have laughed
well if you could have seen us start off, Indian file, each one
with an enormous sun umbrella. Mr. G. expresses himself so
comically with his Italian idioms put into English words, that
it is utterly impossible to keep from laughing in his face. I
have as much control of my risibles as any one and I couldn't
abstain. When we get home E. and I will have some rich
things to tell you.

By the way I long to see Mother on a donkey! It was a
very hot day that we made the ascent of the mountain and it is
a great wonder that we did not take terrible colds, for on de-
scending into the vaults we found it so cold that we could see our
breath distinctly. The centre tomb is magnificent. It is here
that the last king is always kept until his successor dies, then he
is removed into a side tomb to make way for the new one — so we
go! Victor Emmanuel was king of Savoy before he was made
King of Italy, and will be buried here also. They say he never
has entered the place but once on the occasion of his father's
death.

The church itself is built in circular form with a dome and is
quite rich in marbles. They used to keep a great many priests
here but Victor Emmanuel, not being sufficiently fond of them
to be willing to maintain the expense, has cleaned them all out
except two. There is a chapel where they say the priests used
to assemble and one of them would go up into the pulpit and
address them on the subject of the dinner for that day and
advise them to eat, drink and be merry. When we got down
to the foot of the hill before Emma could get off her donkey
it commenced to roll and kick up such a dust!

Coming back to Turin, in the afternoon we went into the
Cathedral, not by any means remarkable. The royal chapel is

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

separated from the church by a glass partition, behind the high
altar. We were obliged to go through the royal palace to enter
it. It is quite imposing but gloomy, being finished all in black
and gold. Inside a glass box kept in the grand altar, is a cloth
bearing the impression of the body of our Savior. Afterwards
we visited the apartments of the royal palace, ascending by
means of a magnificent staircase. On our way out we met the
Prince Amadeo, face to face, with two gentlemen of his suite.
The drums beat every time he enters or goes out of the
Palace.

At dinner that day rather an amusing circumstanceoccurred.
There were two gentlemen sitting opposite us who didn't hesi-
tate to criticize us quite freely, thinking themselves perfectly
safe, as they were speaking Piedmontese, a dialect which
strangers don't understand. But Mr. Garavaglia happened to
be perfectly familiar with it and so after they had discussed us
at length he called a waiter and spoke to him in Piedmontese.
The amazement depicted on the countenances of those men was
too comical. They didn't try to conceal their consternation
but said, "Oh what shall we do — he understands Milanese!"
After dinner we drove an hour or so on the Corso, a long street
bounding a square and shaded on both sides with tall trees.
The Corso in summer is from six to nine, but in the winter
from 3 until dinner.

That evening as we were in the hall settling up our
accounts we made the acquaintance of two Chinese. There
was an embassy of them, staying at that hotel, travelling
round the world. They passed us several times in the hall
and finally one of them stopped and smiled at us and
we were so much amused at his appearance that we smiled
too. He was dressed in rich blue and gray silk and his hair
all shaved off except at the back and that was braided in a long
queue which hung down almost to his feet. Seeing a flower
in Emma's hands he said "flower" and we were quite amazed
to hear him speak English. Then another came up and we
managed to find out that they had been in America and liked

SWITZERLAND

it better than any other country. They said also "America —
mademoiselles — very well," with a vigorous affirmative nod,
which was meant to convey more than the words expressed.
They wrote their names for us, Fuyeh and Rworan, and asked
us for our pictures. They said theirs were in their trunks
locked up and down stairs and that they would give them to
us the next morning, but we told them we were going away too
early.

We left Turin early Tuesday morning, Mr. G. having
accompanied us to the depot, but after we had said good-bye
to him and the train started out of the depot, we began to feel
that we were pretty well alone, with nobody but ourselves to
depend on. Consequently we pulled long faces and sat up very
stiff and straight with an expression which was intended to
strike dismay into the hearts of all (men) beholders. It was
sufficient for all but one — he, in spite of our ferocious appear-
ance, continued to smile amiably upon us during the two hours'
ride to Susa. There was also in the carriage a very amusing
French woman who informed us that crossing Mt. Cenis was
the worst thing in the world and that she suffered terribly with
seasickness, in consequence of which she had prepared herself
with a big hood and already, in anticipation of the ascent, she
began to cough suspiciously out of the window. The amiable
gentleman alluded to now began to render himself still more
so by attempting to open a conversation with me in reference
to travelling in general — it is unnecessary to say he was not
successful.

We were now arrived at Susa and went into the waiting
room to eat the lunch we had brought with us from Turin.
The "amiable" stationed himself about two feet in front of
us and we were really beginning to fear he would prove a
nuisance when the door opened and who should enter but
Mr. and Mrs. Bishop, who had been at the same hotel with
us in Rome. We were glad enough to see them and to have
the pleasure of their company as far as Aix-les-Bains, where
they were going. There were too many people to be accommo-

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

dated in the train and we were obliged to wait a half an hour for
them to put on another train and after a great deal of sputtering
about first-class and second-class, we were at last put into a
first-class car and off we started. We were immensely pleased
with the scenery for about four stations, and then, beginning
to feel rather queer, nothing more, there was a perceptible
diminution in the enthusiasm of the party, we settled down
into contenting ourselves with admiring the constancy with
w'hich an old French lady and gentleman took their potations
of eau Sucre as we issued from each tunnel at the top of the
mountain.

For at least two hours on the top the railway is covered
to prevent the avalanches which are constantly falling from
injuring the road. There was also in the car a Swiss woman
who had paid second-class but was put in our car, — as the
only available space, whose head was a little turned by her
sudden elevation in rank, and she held forth to an admiring
but small audience on the beauties of Alpine scenery. I think
most of us were oblivious to everything but our own feelings
until we reached St. Michele. There just as we were about
taking the train for Geneva I encountered some Lowell friends,
the Whitneys, who were travelling with a party of Bostonians.
I had only time to say good-morning and ask how they were
and they were off.

Arrived at Aix-les-Bains, Mr. Bishop thought it advisable
for us to get into a carriage especially for ladies, as the "ami-
able" was still to be seen lurking around. We had still another
change to make before arriving at Geneva, which place we
reached at nine o'clock.

We had been much amused all day at seeing a most awkward
youth with a fat old gentleman, whom we supposed was his
father (he wore a most extraordinary red and white cap), but
the former with all his awkwardness had a pleasant, intelligent
face that we took rather a fancy to. When we arrived at Geneva
we got into the omnibus of the hotel De la Paix and had to wait
some time for the baggage. In the meanwhile this fellow seated

SWITZERLAND

himself at the other end of the omnibus and we began to discuss
him. Emma said — he understands EngHsh! No, said I, every
time I have heard him speak it was in ItaHan, so we felt quite
free to discuss him. When some man offered to come in E. said
to me, we won't let any but good looking ones come in, well then,
said I, you will have to put somebody out. You can imagine
then our amazement when on arriving at the hotel he spoke to
the waiter in plain English.

We took our supper at contiguous tables, and he informed
us that the old man was a Russian and he an Irishman.
The next morning as we were waiting in the reception room
for the omnibus he hung around and finally asked us why
we didn't go by boat, that he was going that way to visit
his mother. Lady Armstrong, who was boarding at Ouchy
just below Lausanne. He insisted upon riding to the depot
and buying our tickets for us, and not in the least mind-
ing the remonstrances of the guard he ushered us into the car.

So here we are some distance out of Lausanne in the midst
of the most beautiful scenery imaginable, and occupying an
attic room — fortunately it is not hot. Our beds I think have
made the ascent of Mt. Cenis head foremost and have never
been able to recover their equilibrium. We could be well
enough off here if we could be out of doors all the time, but
of course I don't like to leave Emma long alone, and it is
awfully dreary in the house. Moreover the table is miserable.

Yesterday evening was the most beautiful sunset I have
seen in a long while. On the north side of the lake where we
are there are only hills, but on the other side are the high Alps
rising abruptly from the water's edge, some of them covered
with snow, and yesterday when the sun set the white rocks
of all these mountains were tinged the most beautiful rose
color and the water of the lake was of all colors of green and
blue. From our windows we can see the ruins of a tower built
by the good queen Bertha the Spinner. 1 cannot realize that
I am in the midst of so many historical objects, one gets used
to seeing them and they don't have at all the same prestige

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

that one would think they would have. 1 have not heard a
word from father for about two weeks and as I am very anxious
to hear when we can join him in Paris I don't know what to
make of it.

Lausanne, June 12th., 1870.
Still not a word from Father. I think it is very strange he
must have known we couldn't stay in Italy so late as this.
Night before last we went into town to hear a sacred concert

Hk-

THE LAKE OF GENEVA

given at the Church of St. Frangois by the St. Cecilia society

of Lausanne. The chorus was finely trained and they gave a

part of the St. Paul very effectively. I forgot to say that last

Sunday I went into town to attend the English service and

saw our young Irishman and his mother, whom he introduced

to me as Lady Armstrong and then he walked out home with

me. Since then he has been out to call twice, first alone, and

SWITZERLAND

second with his mother, and she invited us to come to see her.
So yesterday we drove down to Ouchy and she insisted upon
our sending away the carriage and staying to tea, and after
tea we went out on the lake in row boats. As it was bright
moonhght and the mountains were enveloped in a sort of haze,
it was as lovely as possible.

The Beau Rivage, a magnificent hotel, is situated directly
on the shore of the lake, i.e. with only a garden between,
and here all the evening a band plays and there is a plat-
form built out into the water where people can sit and watch
the boats and hear the music. I cannot imagine a greater
combination of delights than is afforded by a stay in such
a place as that. It seems Lady Armstrong is a sister of Sir
Francis Armstrong. This son, Montague, is only eighteen
years old, but has seen so much of society that he appears
much older than that. He spent all the winter in Florence
with an aunt and as he had letters of introduction to the
Prince Orsini and some of the first families there, went into
society a great deal. We thought it was very polite in
them to come and see us, as they didn't know anything of us
and meeting us on the railway, and he is too young for us to
have any designs on or he on us. I must go now and get ready
for dinner, so will say good bye. The Irishman is going to
make us some sketches — he does them remarkably well.
In great haste and with much love to all.

Your aff. niece, M. D. R.

P. S. I open this to say I have just received a telegram
from father in Paris saying they all safely arrived and we leave
to-morrow noon for Paris by the way of Yverdon and Neuf-
chatel.

FRANCE

Paris, June 27th, 1870.
Dear Aunt Mary & Children,

There is something about the very atmosphere of Paris
which is fatiguing — there is so much noise and confusion, and
so much to be done that we feel, when we come home late in
the afternoon, as if we could go right to bed and stay there.
I don't think Paris is any too healthy myself and long to get
away from it. Tuesday or Wednesday, the 2nd or 3rd of July,
we shall leave for London.

We came by the way of Neufchatel and had to ride all
night. During the afternoon we passed by the shore of Lake
Neufchatel through the most delightful country. All the land-
scape was of the most beautiful green and dotted over with
brilliant flowers, (poppies grow wild in among the grain) and
every few miles we came across some old ruin with high pointed
towers and Gothic arches. In the night, however, as we ap-
proached Paris we began to feel the effects of the drought, and
on our arrival we were perfectly disguised with dust.

We did not find Father at the station and I was so discour-
aged that when we arrived at the Grand Hotel and I went up to
his room, all I said in way of salutation was, Why father! how
could you let us come here alone, but the poor man was not to
blame, as the telegram had made the mistake, saying ten o'clock
instead of five o'clock. We hadn't the slightest idea where they

FRANCE

were stopping but as good luck would have it found them at the
Grand Hotel.

We have been here now two weeks and have worked as
hard as any poor dogs ever did, what with sight-seeing and
shopping. When I arrived here I was quite ragged — I had
not bought a new dress since I came over and my old ones
were hanging together by the last thread (figuratively speak-
ing) so my first business was to hunt a black silk suit.
After going through all the large establishments to find one
ready made, unsuccessfully, I went to a dressmaker who
promised to have one done last Monday and here it is Friday
and it is not yet arrived. In the meantime I await the giving
away of the last thread — the last hair that broke the
camel's back.

I have always looked forward to Paris as a sort of shopping
Paradise where you had only to say you wanted a dress in such
and such a color and immediately you would be invested with
the dress, a perfect model of beauty and style. Instead of
which I find it is quite the same old story here as at home.
To get the best style you must go to the most expensive
dressmaker and thereby defeat the object of buying here.

For the past week we have been busy sightseeing, improv-
ing the pleasant weather in seeing the suburbs of Paris, a very
difficult matter in the fall as it is always sure to rain. A week
ago last Sunday Father and mother and I went to the Hotel
des Invalides to hear military music. I wrote you about it
when I was here before, and I wanted mother to hear it.
There are now in the Hospital three hundred men who fought
with the first Napoleon. It is a grand sight to see them march
up the aisle to the drum roll and when the host is elevated
they lower arms and bend the head during the trombone solo
which is always played at that time.

Last Sunday morning Father and I went to St. Roch. It was
a fete day and we heard there was to be fine music, and were not
disappointed. There was a procession of children all dressed in
white, with wreaths of roses on their heads, who came up the

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

middle aisle to the music of the most magnificent brass band I
ever heard. Finally when the officiating priest came into the
aisle from the entrance, carrying the host, the band followed him
and he was preceded b}' the censer boys, who turned every mo-
ment in the progress and swung the censers backwards while
others had baskets of rose leaves w^hich they threw high in the
air. Altogether it was a magnificent sight. The long line of

THE PARK AT ST. CLOUD, PARIS

censers swung in perfect time, the flowers and the incense and

with all the glorious music which made the whole building fairly

tremble with sound. I shall not readily forget it. I think Father

was quite pleased, as he did not seem to think his time had

been thrown away. He made the remark that "old-fashioned

muster was nothing at all to it."

In the afternoon all of us went out to St. Cloud, as the

fountains w^ere advertised to play at four o'clock. The Court

FRANCE

are now occupying the Palace* so we were not admitted to
the private grounds and had to content ourselves with the
Public Park. The grounds are lovely, laid out on the side
of a hill, and the celebrated fountain is laid out in terraces
descending from the private garden of the Palace. The
water falls in broad sheets from one terrace to another,
while at the sides, vases and dragons of all shapes throw out

THE LOUVRE, PARIS

separate spouts. The whole effect as you stand at the foot
and look up is very beautiful. Next Sunday we are going to
Versailles to see the fountains play, — there they only play on
the first Sunday of each month and on grand occasions.

Monday father devoted to business and Emma to rest and
Mother and I took the "Louvre" for our duty that day. I had
already spent three days in it last fall and had not finished, so
this day I made that an object and think I succeeded. The gems
of the collection of pictures are all in one room which I believe I

*This Palace was destroyed in the War of 1870-71 by the Germans.
7 97

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

told you about last fall. There are two originals of Aiurillo's
Madonnas and a holy family of Raphael and the Mona Lisa
of Leonardo da Vinci, a holy family of Andrea de Sarto, the
Marriage of Cana by Paul Veronese, St. Michael overthrowing
the Demon by Raphael, and many others. In the sculpture
Gallery I was anxious to see the Venus of Milo, to compare it
with the two at the Vatican and Capitol at Rome. I like it
better than the Venus de Medici, the celebrated Diana a la
biche is also in this collection. While looking at the souvenirs

r "

THE PARK AT VERSAILLES, NEAR PARIS

of the first Napoleon, his old gray coat, &c., the camp bed,
table, and chair, and the bench he sat on at St. Helena, we
came across John Davis.

Wednesday we went to Fontainebleau. It is two hours
from Paris, a long ride. We saw the table where Napoleon
signed the abdication, the apartments where he imprisoned
Pope Pius 7th after he brought him from Rome to perform
the ceremony of Coronation, also the apartments of Mde.
de Maintenon. We saw there souvenirs of all the French
Kings from the time of Francis ist. There was one splen-
did old fireplace on the ground floor, representing King

FRANCE

Henry 4th on horseback, a basso relievo of white marble
on black ground. The present Empress occupies the same
bedroom that Marie Antoinette did, the furniture is all em-
broidered by hand and was a present to Marie Antoinette.
We saw and were much interested in the rooms occupied by
Marie Antoinette. Did not drive in the forest for want of
time. I suppose it is quite the same as other forests I have
seen, but I should like to have seen it.*

Yesterday we went out to Malmaison. First went into the
village church of Rueil where Josephine and Hortense are
buried. The former is represented kneeling at her prayers and
in the dress she wore at her coronation. The likeness is said to
be very striking. We walked from there to the Palace, which
is only an ordinary country house and quite plain, still there is
an air of home and comfort about it that noneof the others have.
The ceilings are low and the rooms cheerful. In the music room
is the very harp she used to play on and in her work room her
tapestry work is just as she left it, the needle stuck in the work.
Up stairs we saw the bed where she died and two very fine crayon
portraits done by Hortense, one of herself and one of her hus-
band. Altogether it was a most interesting old place.

On our return to town we went to the church of St. Germain-
des-Pres, the oldest church in Paris, but it has been so altered
and transformed that it has quite the air of a new one. All that
interested me in it was the tomb of James Douglas. The other
day we visited Pere la Chaise, the great cemetery of Paris. It is
a strange place, not at all like our cemeteries. It is on a side
hill and is laid out in regular paved streets like a city, the
tombs rising up on each side like miniature houses. It is
exactly like the street of tombs in Pompeii. The tomb of
Abelard and Heloise is the great attraction. The effigies in
marble lie side by side on the slab under which their bodies lie.
I couldn't begin to tell you the names of all the distinguished
people who are buried there. Moliere, La Fontaine, Rachel,
Grisi, Manuel Garcia, Balzac; Marshal Ney's tomb is only a

* She went to the Forest in 1897.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

plain grave such as we have in America. So much for the
sights.

Mother tells me grandmother has my quilt nearly finished
and that it is a beauty. I expect to be delighted with it and
hope it will take the premium. Tell Jimmy to save his stamps
and I will get him a book. I didn't come over to spend my
time shopping but to see and learn something.

Give my love to all. Mother will write soon I guess.

Your aff. niece, M. D. R.

ENGLAND

London, July i8th, 1870.
Langham Hotel.
Dear Aunt Mary and Children,

We left Paris just a week ago to-morrow morning, and a
day or two before the war was declared between France and
Prussia, so we missed all the excitement that is raging in that
city at present. The impression everywhere previous to the
declaration was that there would be no war, and they are all
down on France as being the cause of it all. * We had a delight-
ful passage across the channel, the water was as smooth as
glass, and we enjoyed our first meal of roast beef, hugely.

We are delighted with London,^ — it is such a wonderful city.
I never expect to see a tithe of it, there is so much to be seen.
To be sure we have visited some of the great sights but at
every turn I see names that I have read about all my life
belonging to lanes and buildings that I long to explore. The
buildings are all massive and aged in appearance, and there
is a sense of solidity about everything that is very impressive
and then there are such beautiful parks scattered all through
the city, where you seem transported suddenly into the heart
of the country.

Our first day was spent in Westminster Abbey. I never
saw a building that made such an impression upon me at
first sight, not that it is larger or finer than any other, but

*The Franco-German War began soon after.

lOI

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

because of the irregular architecture and its extremely old
appearance — it is black with age. To enter you cross a yard
paved with tomb stones which brings you into one of the
transepts. The building is in the form of a cross, in the Gothic
style, high vaulted arches and elaborate carving. The win-
dows are of stained glass and the light very dim. Every avail-
able spot that is not used for the accommodation of the con-
gregation is devoted to tombs. Here you see the tombs
of all of England's greatest men for ages. The Poets' Corner
is the most attractive spot of all. Shakespeare has a monu-
ment here, but his body is in the church at Stratford-on-Avon.
Chaucer's tomb is very elaborately carved and worn with time.

Behind what is the high altar in a former Catholic cathedral
is the famous Chapel of Henry 7th, which has the finest carved
stone ceiling in the w^orld. Here are the tombs of King Henry
and his wife, their effigies on their tombs, the whole enclosed
by a brass railing. In this chapel the Knights of the Order of
Bath held their reunions, their stalls surround the chapel and
their banners hang over them. In the other small chapels lie
the bodies of Mary Queen of Scots and Lord Darnley and
Queen Elizabeth. I remember one curious tomb made by
some earl for himself and his two wives. His ef^gy and that of
his first wife are to be seen but that of the second wife is
missing, she having refused to be placed on his left side.

The shrine of Edward the Confessor, a monument of the By-
zantine order, occupies an elevated position behind the high
altar. It is here the sovereigns of England have been crowned
for many years, the chair used on the occasion has been used
since the time of Edward the Confessor, and is a most uncom-
fortable looking affair and very much decayed. I can't begin to
tell all there is of interest in the Abbey for it is a perfect ceme-
tery. I found on one tomb an inscription that I have often met
with in books, "They were a noble familie for all the brothers
were valiant and all the sisters virtuous." I was interested in
looking at all the celebrated inscriptions but haven't time to
speak of them all. Milton's tomb has the oft-quoted verse,

ENGLAND

comparing him with Homer and Virgil, Chaucer's, the follow-
ing, in Latin —

"Of English bards who sang the sweetest strains
Old Geoffrey Chaucer now this tomb contains,
For his death's date if reader thou shouldst call,
Look but beneath and it will tell thee all."

The remains of the unfortunate princes, Edward 5th and
Richard, Duke of York, were deposited in the Abbey after
they were found under the staircase in the Tower. There are
no inscriptions on Elizabeth's and Mary's tombs. The Clois-
ters are precisely like all we have seen in Italy, a portico sur-
rounding an open court. The carved stone work is falling
away in every direction and they are obliged to keep it in
constant repair to keep it from falling in pieces.

In every direction from the Abbey we came across remnants
of the old architecture built into newer buildings — we went into
Westminster school, or rather peeped into one of the corridors
lined with students' cells. The boys were all engaged in a wrest-
ling match and their caps and gowns were flying about at a great
rate, and the noise they made was deafening, I guess boys
are the same all over the world. Gowns don't seem to have a
dignifying effect. Everywhere we go we meet these college
boys with their funny square caps.

Our second day we spent in the Tower and National Picture
Gallery. The former used to be outside of the City on the bank
of the Thames, but now the city is built all around it. The
guide who conducted us through it was dressed as a yeoman of
Henry 8th's time in a very strange costume. What was for-
merely the moat is now used as a garden, otherwise its aspect
remains unchanged from former times. We saw the Traitors'
Gate, where all prisoners of state made their entrance from
the river. The White Tower is the centre building and was
occupied by the Court when a royal residence, — what was
once the great dining hall is now an armory, an immense col-
lection of arms.

103

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

In the same building is a fine collection of horse armor
and suits of armor which belonged to celebrated men of
former times. The walls of this building are 14 feet thick;
here Sir \\ alter Raleigh was imprisoned. The room where
he slept was dug out of the solid wall and the only way in
which fresh air could be admitted was through a small hole
in the door. In another building we were shown where Peveril
of the Peak was imprisoned and many others who have covered
the walls with inscriptions, one of them — "Be ye faithful unto
death and ye shall receive a crown of life." The guide pointed
out to us the very spot where Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane
Grey were executed. The husband of the latter was executed
in the morning in sight of her window and in a few hours they
beheaded her also. We saw all the crown jewels of England, but
to me they were not nearly as interesting as the building itself.

At the National Gallery we saw the Turner collection.
I don't like the pictures themselves as well as the engravings
of them I have seen. I had always supposed that as he made
it his special study to imitate nature as closely as possible that
his pictures would possess the merit of being very natural, but
it seems to me to be quite the reverse of the case. His coloring
is very brilliant and there is a rough unfinished look about all his
pictures, Queen Mab's Grotto in particular. A great many of his
subjects are taken from the Revelation. There were also some
Italian gems, an Ecce Homo and Mary Magdalen of Guido's
and a Christ disputing in the Temple of Da Vinci (beautiful).

That night we went to the Italian Opera, heard Lucca,
Titiens and Mario. Lucca has a great reputation here but
I was much disappointed in her voice. Titiens is magnifi-
cent, tho' quite old now. Mario's voice is entirely broken.
I can scarcely believe that he ever had a beautiful voice. The
British Museum we walked through as rapidly as possible —
it is a collection of everything and I have come to the conclu-
sion that I won't enter another museum; they are all alike
only that one is larger than another.

Last Saturday was a great day at the Crystal Palace and

104

ENGLAND

we determined to spend the day there. So we went out in the
morning, (it is about six miles from the city)and took our
lunch of the most delicious strawberries we ever saw, in a large
saloon overlooking the country for miles, and then after looking
round among curiosities of all kinds collected there went into
the concert. These concerts are given once a week during the

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season in the Palace free of charge. We heard Christine Niel-
son and were delighted with her voice, and Faure the great
baritone, Mad. Sinico and Trebelli-Bellini.

Afterwards we took our dinner in the restaurant, and that
over, went out on to the terrace to hear the band of the Cold-
stream Guards play. Godfrey, the composer of the "Guard's

Waltz," and the 'Hildah," and others, is the leader, and they

105

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

played splendidly. One young fellow played the "Last Rose of
Summer" on the cornet so beautifully that it brought tears to
everybody's eyes. I never heard anything more touching.
Another played some wonderful variations of the Carnival of
Venice on a piccolo and was cheered tremendously by the crowd.
Then there came a display of fireworks which exceeded anything
of the kind I ever saw. The whole sky was filled with stars
bursting from the rockets and the great fountains were illumi-
nated with red, blue and green and fire balloons were sent up
every minute. It was too elaborate for my powers of descrip-
tion— it was like a spectacle from fairyland.

At ten o'clock we went back into the palace and heard the
great Handel Organ and then came home well tired out, but
had to get up early the next morning to hear Spurgeon. His
church is capable of containing seven thousand people and it
was crammed with people. They say he is only twenty-eight
years old, but it seems hardly possible, he looks much older.
He preaches in a conversational way, but his downright earnest-
ness makes him very impressive. His text was — "Like as a
father pitieth his children so the Lord pitieth them that fear
him." A woman was taken with a fit and had to be carried
out in the middle of the discourse.

In the afternoon we went to St. Paul's and heard some glori-
ous music. One of the little boys had a magnificent soprano
voice. The whole service is intoned except the sermon. When
the officiating minister went up to the pulpit preceded by two
old men who carry silver maces he proved to be an acquaintance
we made at Venice so we staid and spoke with him after service.
Father took a very bad cold there and has been quite sick with
it, but is better to-day. St. Paul's is an immense edifice, built
according to the plan of Sir Christopher Wren, and is still
unfinished and contains the tombs of Wellington and Nelson,
Dr. Johnson's and Bishop Heber's, Sir Benjamin W^est, &c.
It is celebrated for its great bell (which is only tolled on the
death of members of the royal family), and for the whispering

gallery. These two we didn't see because it was Sunday.

1 06

ENGLAND

We expect to leave here to-morrow morning but have not yet
decided where we are going. Father and Mr. Greeley are going
to hear the debates in Parliament to-night, ladies are not
admitted they say. We are all of us pretty well worn out and
long to get into the country. We are afraid the war is going
to prevent us from travelling much on the continent and the
price of goods will be raised. We find London in every respect
more expensive than the continent, and shall not buy anything
here. Mother has bought an India shawl for ^500. We
haven't heard from you for a long time — are you all well.^ My
best love to all the family.

Your aff. niece,

M. D. R.

Regent's Hotel, July 21st. 1870.
Leamington Spa.
Dear Aunt Mary & Children,

I am very tired to-night, but thought I had better write
you something about to-day's doings before going to bed, as
it shortens the work in the end.

Leamington is one of the fashionable watering places of
England and is about two hours and forty minutes from London
and a half hour north of Rugby. I would have liked to stop
at the latter place but father was in a hurry to get here, and
so we kept on. I saw some of the Rugby boys as we passed
through the station. I wonder if Jimmy has read "Tom Brown
at Rugby".? — it is a great boys' book. Part of the way the
train ran with such speed that we were quite frightened think-
ing the cars would surely leap from the track.

There are medicinal springs in this place that are very

good for rheumatism and skin diseases — father thinks they

are going to do him good. So we walked down to them

this morning and drank some of the water. It is very nasty

stuff, like ocean water, only worse. About eleven o'clock we

started off in a big carriage in which Emma and I sat up in a

high seat behind the others, for Warwick Castle and Kenil-

107

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

worth. We enjoyed our ride along the fine English roads,
bordered with neatly trimmed hedges — the English keep the
country in such a high state of cultivation that it is beautiful
everywhere just for that very reason.

Warwick Castle is on the river Avon — we had a lovely view
of it as we approached. It is a grand old building, with high
battlemented towers and is said to date back to the time of
Caesar, but if so there is none of the original building left. The
oldest part of the castle is Caesar's tower, which we did not
enter. Of course like all old castles it is surrounded by a moat,
which is now all overgrown with trees. We entered through the
old portcullis into the open Green round which the castle is built
and where we had a fine view of all its different portions.

Entering the lodge at our left an old woman showed us a
collection of curiosities of the Giants, as she said. There was
the great porridge pot of bell metal which will hold 102 gallons
and which she said she saw emptied three times at the coming
of age of the present earl. It belonged to Guy the great Earl of
Warwick, the Giant, who lived in the year 1000 and who was
over eight feet tall. She also showed us his helmet and his horse
armor and his battle-axe, and many things of the same sort.
Afterwards a man took us through that part of the castle used
at present. The banqueting hall, the dining and drawing rooms.
In the former was another collection of curiosities, armor be-
longing to distinguished members of the family, &c., among
them a helmet which belonged to Oliver Cromwell. In another
part of the house we saw a plaster cast of Cromwell's face after
death and a bust of Proserpine by our artist Powers. The cele-
brated picture of Charles the ist by Vandyke stands at the end
of a long gallery filled with armor. He is represented as ap-
proaching on horseback. The horse and rider stand right out
from the picture as if they were alive.

In the dining room is a very remarkable sideboard or buffet

as they call it, presented to the present Earl by the town. It is

made of a tree grown at Kenilworth and elaborately carved

with scenes representing Elizabeth's visit at that place. I had

108

ENGLAND

more interest in this castle from having read Bulwer's "Last of
the Barons." This Baron was Richard Earl of Warwick, the
King Maker, and is buried in the Beauchamp Chapel of St.
Mary's church in the village. In this church we went up into a
little passage where they used to hear confession — the steps of
solid stone were worn completely through in the middle so that
I could see through under the staircase. Here was also the
tomb of Lord Dudley, Earl of Leicester.

We next went to Guy's Cliff, where is the country seat of
Lord Percy, and saw a part of an old monastery with cells
dug into the side of the hill. Before the time of the mon-
astery Guy, Earl of Warwick, having killed a great many men,
became penitent and disguising himself as a hermit lived in a
cave in the side of this cliff and went every morning to beg at
the gate of his own castle and in that way supported himself
until he died. They also showed us a well called Guy's well.

Then we went to Kenilworth Castle. It is a glorious old
ruin, overgrown with ivy. We climbed all over it and thought
of the time when the Earl of Leicester entertained Queen Eliza-
beth here and at the same time kept Amy Robsart confined in
Mervyn Bower — we went into the very room. It was in the
garden of this castle I believe that Elizabeth and Mary Stuart
had their memorable interview. Elizabeth afterwards had this
same earl beheaded at the tower. I should like to see this old
ruin by moonlight — it seems to me like a haunted place, and
as if the ghost of poor Amy Robsart, who suffered so here,
might come out and confront one. How I should have liked
to see this place just as it was during Elizabeth's visit!

On our way home we passed through the grounds of Lord
Leigh, the wealthiest nobleman of this county and saw all that
remains of Stoneleigh Abbey. Saturday we intend to spend at
Stratford. I am sitting in the dining-room of the hotel looking
out into the garden which is a beautiful spot with a fountain
and hosts of brilliant flowers. It is as cool and comfortable as
possible.

This is said to be a very fashionable place, and the hotel

109

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

is full, but it is so different from with us. There is hardly ever
any one to be seen here, in this room or at the bath room.
I suppose a great many have private villas, but where they
keep themselves I cannot imagine.

Leamington, July 24th, 1870.

To-day is Sunday, but we have not any of us been to church
because we felt that we needed to-day for rest, as we are to
start off again to-morrow, but I always have letters to write so
there is no rest for me. Yesterday at half-past nine we started
for Stratford-on-Avon, the home of Shakespeare. Driving
through the country here is as delightful as possible — the grass
is so green and there are so many fine old trees — father thinks
he would like to own a place here.

About four miles this side of Stratford we came to Charle-
cote, the residence of Spencer Lucy — it has been in the Lucy
family for generations since before the time of Shakespeare.
As we came along whole herds of deer were lying down a short
distance from the fence and father had to get down and go to
look at them. In Shakespeare's time Sir Thomas Lucy lived
here and it was in this very park that Shakespeare shot the
deer and was arraigned in the Hall for deer-stealing. After-
wards in one of his plays he brings in almost the whole scene
and satirizes Sir Thomas under the form of Justice Shallow.

Stratford is now a flourishing town, much larger than in
S's time, but all its interest for strangers lies in the fact that
the great poet was born here and here died. Our first visit was
to the house where he was born. It is a little old fashioned
house in Henley street- and has been used as a butcher shop
but has been bought by the government and restored to its
original condition. He was born in the front room up stairs;
its walls are covered thick with the names of visitors, among
them on the window I saw the name of Walter Scott written
with a diamond.

There was a bust of Shakespeare on a table which is said
to be the best likeness of him, and which does not in the least

ENGLAND

resemble the pictures we have of him in America. His face in
this is rather fleshy and his mouth very small with full lips.
There is nothing besides this in the house of any interest. In
the garden there is a small mulberry tree, which the gardener
told me was a lineal descendant of the one Shakespeare planted
at his other house — there was also a Vv^hite cat walking around
whose acquaintance I made and who bore the rather remark-
able name of William Richard— the gardener said he was not
deaf as is usually the case with white cats.

On our way to church we passed Kew Place where the
poet lived after his return from London. At one time the
house came into the hands of a Rev. Mr, Gastrell who had
it razed to the ground to prevent the trouble of answering
the questions of strangers who came there to see it. Since
then the government has bought it and having uncovered
the foundations keeps the garden around it in fine order.
The large mulberry tree planted by Shakespeare's own hand —
this same man had cut it down for fire-wood, and thereby made
himself so odious to the inhabitants that they turned him out
of the town.

The church is a fair example of all the village churches
of England, surrounded by a churchyard along the further
side of which the Avon runs. It was. a quiet, delightful spot,
where I should like to spend a day. The interior is very
pretty — contains some strange monuments of the Clopton
family with colored effigies. Shakespeare is buried in front of
the chancel with the others of his family under a plain stone
slab, with the strange inscription which has prevented the
government from moving his body to Westminster Abbey.

"Good Frend for Jesus sake forbeare
To digg the dust encloased Heare.
Blessed be the man yt spares these stones,
And curst be he yt moves my bones."

On the left is a monument with a bust of Shakespeare
represented as writing, and under it this inscription —

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

"Stay, passenger, why goest thou by so fast?"
"Read, if thou canst, whom envious death hath plast"
"Within this monument Shakespere, with whome"
"Quick nature dide: whose name doth deck ys tombe"
"Far more than cost: Sith all yt he hath witt, "
"Leaves living art but page to serve his witt."

All the time we were in the church the organist was playing
on the organ, and I couldn't help but be impressed with the
solemnity of the scene. The sexton showed us the parish reg-
ister with the record of Shakespeare's baptism in Latin. "Gug-
lielmus filius Johannes, Apr. 26, 1564." I copied a very amusing
epitaph I found in one side of the church, it was that of a
woolen draper.

"Heare lieth intombed the Corps of Richard Hill,
A woolen draper beeing in his time,
Whose virtues live, whose fame dooth fiorish stil
Though hee desolved be to dust and shine.
A mirror hee and paterne mai be made.
For such as shall suckcead him in that trade,
He did not use to sweare to close eather faigne.
His brother to befraude in barganninge
He woolde not strive to get excessive gaine
In any cloath or other kinde of thinge."

We took our lunch at the Red Horse Inn, the same where
Washington Irving stopped when he visited Stratford, and saw
the parlor he occupied — then went down into the fields by the
Avon and sat down on the banks awhile, and then drove home.
I believe we stop at Matlock, Derbyshire, to-morrow. This
will have to do for to-day, I guess, as I am tired.

M. D. R.

SCOTLAND

Edinburgh, Aug. 2nd, 1870.

Royal Hotel.
Dear Cliff,

We arrived here in Edinburgh last Saturday night, and
the very next morning mother fell on the stairs and sprained
her ankle so badly that we thought at first it was broken — it
very soon was terribly swollen and painful and we sent for a
surgeon. He said there was no fracture but she would have to
be very careful and might not use her foot — but must lie in bed
for several days. To-day it is very much better — ^we hope she
may be able to get up in a day or two.

I believe my last letter was written from Leamington, so in
accordance with my usual plan I will try to give you an idea of
what we have seen between there and here. A two hours' ride
from Leamington brought us to Matlock Bath, a lovely place in
among the hills and on Derwent water, commanding a fine view
of High Tor, and opposite cliffs. We stayed there only one night
taking a drive to the paternal home of Florence Nightingale, a
beautiful English home. Here father and Mr. Greeley amused
themselves by dealing out pennies to at least twenty ragged
youngsters. At the hotel there was a magnificent Plane tree, a
tremendous one with its branches supported by poles, giving it
the appearance of a banyan tree. At the Old Bath Hotel
Lord Byron and Mary Chaworth used to meet.

From there we went to the famous Peacock Inn at Rowsely,

8 113

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

in the neighborhood of the Duke of Devonshire's place. It was
a real specimen of the old-fashioned style of house, with high
sloping roof and small diamond-paned casement windows, all
half-grown with ivy. Our first excursion was to Haddon Hall,
an uninhabited Castle left exactly as in the olden time and on
that account we found it very interesting. It was built by
Peveril of the Peak, the natural son of William the Conqueror,
and has since been the residence of the Manners and Vernon
family. It was here the celebrated Dorothy Vernon lived.
I have never read her history but mean to.

Entering the Court they showed us the Chaplain's room.
Poor man, he was but an unimportant member of the house-
hold, and was put off into a corner. The chapel too was a
strange uncomfortable affair. The greatest space was devoted
to the dining hall, kitchen and larders. How they ever managed
to cook in such a dark place I don't understand, there was a
great open fireplace and besides that something like our modern
ranges and heavy wooden tables with basins cut in them for
chopping things, places to cut meat and water troughs, the
whole surrounded by small store-rooms. From the kitchen a
small dark passage led up to the dining hall with a table raised
on a platform and rude wooden benches to sit on. On the wall
was an instrument used to fasten a man's wrist to the wall if he
couldn't drink his portion and then cold water was poured
down his sleeve. Some one says they never would have thought
of pouring it down his throat.

The drawing room was hung with tapestry and had the
funniest little windows and closets — the bed-room contains
an old bed all in rags, which must have been elegant, in
which Queen Elizabeth slept when on a visit here. The great
ball-room looks out on a stiflP-looking terrace of theold fashioned
style with a heavy stone balustrade and flight of steps leading
down from it. This is the only place we have seen that gives
one a perfect idea of how they used to live three or four cen-
turies ago.

From here we went to Chatsworth, the modern residence

114

SCOTLAND

of the Duke of Devonshire, esteemed one of the, or rather
the finest, place in England. The Park is immense and
stocked with all sorts of game. The house is built in the Italian
style and resembles, both exterior and interior, an Italian
Palace. Near the house is a small building surrounded by a
moat and called Queen Mary's Bower, as she used to spend
some time on that spot when imprisoned at Chatsworth. I
haven't time to tell about all I saw there, but I don't take the
same interest in such a modern building anyway.

There is a splendid library and a fine collection of paintings,
and a large room devoted to statuary, in which there are some
gems. The suite of state apartments is one hundred and ninety
feet long, and splendidly ornamented with the finest wood carv-
ing I ever saw, done by Gibbons. In one room is the wardrobe
of Louis XIV. Among the elegant ornaments are some mala-
chite tables and a clock in the same material, presented by
Alexander 1st and the late Czar Nicholas of Russia. The
walls of the chapel are richly ornamented with wood carvings
and paintings.

The gardens are laid out in every imaginable style and con-
tain some fine fountains. One of them is an iron tree, so good an
imitation that no one would suspect it and they generally play
tricks on people. Mr. Greeley went under it unsuspectingly and
got slightly deluged, though not enough to inconvenience him.
There is an immense hot house built after the Crystal Palace,
where I found a poor little kitten who is kept there to catch
bugs, I suppose. It was evidently dying of the heat. The late
Duke had immense rocks brought from a distance and piled up
to make quite large hills and grottoes in his garden. There
is everything there that money can buy.

We went on to Manchester the next day but saw nothing
there. The next day found us on the banks of Lake Windemere
in a hotel where the American flag was floating. In the even-
ing we took a boat ride on the lake and the next morning we
were all on top of the stage coach en route for Keswick where
we took the cars for Edinburgh. It was like our White Moun-

115

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

tain travelling, but the scenery bore a striking resemblance to
the Green Mountains.

Of the four Lakes, Windemere, Grasmere, Thirlemere and
Rydal water, Grasmere is the most beautiful, the grass cloth-
ing the banks to the very verge of the water and then re-
flected in it. Near Ambleside is the home of Wordsworth,
but we did not stop to visit it. By the roadside we saw the
rock with the steps ascending to it which he made himself
and which goes by the name of Wordsworth's study. Both
he and Coleridge have tombs at the village church but
Coleridge is not buried there but at Highgate. Arrived at
Keswick we had time to go up to Greta Hall, the former
residence of the poet Southey and where he gloried in the
beauty of the view to be obtained from its windows, and
also to visit his tomb, a mile beyond in the village churchyard,
only a plain black slab.

Edinburgh, August 3rd. 1870.

As we leave Edinburgh to-morrow morning to take a hur-
ried trip through the Highlands, I must finish all I've got to
say about this place to-night. Finding that mother's foot was
not likely to prove dangerous we went out Sunday morning
to hear the celebrated Dr. Stuart preach. He was a regular
Scotchman in appearance, but spoke with very little brogue —
his style is very concise and he is evidently a man of ideas
but he hardly clothes them with enough ornament to render
them palatable to an ordinary congregation. In the evening
we walked over to St. Giles, where John Knox used to preach.
It was formerly a cathedral but is now divided into three parts
and three different ministers preach there at the same time.

The next morning we went up on Carlton Hill to take a view

of the city. Edinburgh has been compared to Athens — in

point of situation and architecture. Edinburgh castle stands

on a high crag, which looms up high above the rest of the city

and is inaccessible except on one side, where a street runs down

from it into the heart of the old city, to the castle of Holyrood,

which slopes away from this street on both sides into a ravine.

116

SCOTLAND

On the other side of one of these ravines stands the new town.
From the top of this hill where we were standing we had a
splendid view of both old and new town, and I have never
seen a more picturesque sight, there is so much more variety
in its position than is usual. At our feet lay the Castle of
Holyrood, so celebrated in History, and on the other side Leith,
the seaport of Edinburgh and in the distance the Bare Rocks,
where the Covenanters used to hide.

HOLYROOD CASTLE, EDINBURGH

The monuments to .Nelson and Dugald Stewart are on this
hill, also the unfinished remains of a building designed to be a
copy of the Parthenon at Athens. The effect when you are down
at the other end of the city looking up the ravine is very impres-
sive and different from anything I have ever seen. Holyrood
Castle which we visited next is now used by the Queen when-
ever she comes here, and has been remodeled to serve modern
purposes, but the rooms connected with the history of Mary,
Queen of Scots, are left just as they were when she used them,

her drawing room and bed chamber, and adjoining the latter

117

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the little supping room in which took place the tragedy of
Rizzio. They showed us the very staircase leading to her
bedroom by which Lord Darnley and his associates ascended
and entered the supping room. Here they seized Rizzio
and dragged him through her bedroom out into the draw-
ing room, stabbing him a great many times, when he final-
ly breathed his last close by the door into the hall. He got
behind Mary and tried to protect himself in that way, but
it was of no avail, and they even threatened her life if she
should attempt to interfere. The blood-spot still remains on
the floor where Rizzio fell — and the partition which Mary had
erected to prevent her from seeing it.

Her bed chairs and a child's cradle are still in her bed cham-
ber, though nearly fallen into decay. It is hard to realize that
they ever were the rich things they really were. Her work-box
is made of her own handiwork covered with glass — over it hangs
her mirror, which we should not now consider fit for a servant's
bedroom, so little and old fashioned is it. In the supping
room is the block of marble on which she kneeled when she was
married to Lord Darnley. His apartments were immediately
over hers and connected with them by a small winding staircase.

Opposite the Palace is a little low building called Queen
Mary's Bath House, and adjoining it the ruins of the fam-
ous Holyrood Abbey. The place is paved with graves — in
one corner the royal vault where are buried James 2nd, James
5th, and Lord Darnley. Nothing but the walls are standing, the
roof being entirely gone. The street leading from this palace up
to the Castle passes through the heart of the old town, by the
Tolbooth, or old Jail, a remarkably old building, and past the
house where John Knox lived. There is an effigy of him on
the outside of the house represented as preaching to the multi-
tude. This inscription is over the door, —

"Love God above all, and your neighbour as yourself."

The houses in this part of the city are very strange looking

affairs — they look so old it seems as if they must come down

118

SCOTLAND

over your head; some of them are seven and eight stories high,
which adds to their dangerous appearance, and are capped
with little pointed towers.

Just before reaching Parliament house we came to a heart,
laid in the pavement, with stones. That is the heart of Mid-
lothian and stands on the place where the old jail stood. In
front of the Parliament House is a stone placed in the street
to mark the spot.

The Castle, like all other old castles, is a great rambling
building with high walls and towers. There is nothing partic-
ularly interesting on the inside but the rooms occupied by
Queen Mary when James the 6th was born. When he was
eight days old he was let down in a basket from the window of
one of these rooms, at a fearful height, because they were doubt-
ful of his safety. The prayer that Mary offered up at the time
is painted on the wall. In another room, are kept the crown of
Scotland and the Regalia. It seems the latter were kept in
hiding for over a hundred years to keep them out of the hands
of the English and some people even suffered torture on their
account. Walter Scott was present at the opening of the chest
when they were at last found, after the cause of their seclusion
had been removed.

Yesterday we spent in hunting shawls and to-day we drove
out to Roslin Castle and Chapel, first visiting the Earl of
Buccleugh's residence and then driving to Hauthomeden, the
former residence of the poet Drummond, where we left mother
to go in the carriage round to Roslin Chapel to which we
walked. Drummond's house is built on a high rock at the
head of a beautiful and romantic glen, through which the river
Esk runs — the view of this glen from the house is perfectly
lovely. Underneath the house and dug out of the solid rock
are the caves where Bruce lived for a time. The room which
served for his library has walls like a honeycomb to contain his
books. His sword is there and a desk belonging to John Knox.

We then walked through the glen, the distance of two

miles to Roslin Castle. The Castle is nothing but an old ruin

119

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

mostly underground, but the Chapel is considered one of the
finest specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland. The
stone carving is very beautiful, there is one pillar in particular
of which the carving is considered wonderful. It seems the
architect was not able to complete it from the design, so he
went off to Rome to study and while he was gone one of his
apprentices finished it and the architect on his return was so
provoked and jealous that he raised his hammer and struck the
man on his head, so that he died. There is a legend that when-
ever a Lord of Roslin is about to die, that the chapel appears to
be in flames. Walter Scott speaks of it in his ballad of Rosabel.

The Knights of Roslin were all buried in full armor un-
derneath the chapel. This evening father and I drove over
to Greyfriars churchyard, where some of the most distin-
guished men of Scotland are buried, but found it closed, so
we drove down through Cowgate, one of the oldest streets of
the old town, where all the scum of the city lives and through
Grass Market (where all criminals used to be beheaded), a filth-
ier set of people I never saw — -a squalid miserable looking
set. Then we passed around under the castle, where the Earl
of Moray with his followers climbed up one night and scaling
the wall took the castle. The driver said that the soldiers now
quartered in the garrison are in the habit of dropping themselves
down over the wall if they want to get off of a night. It doesn't
seem as if they possibly could without breaking their necks.

Mother and I are going out to-morrow morning to hunt
some blanket shawls. So far she has seen nothing she likes so
well as those at home.

Queen Mary's prayer is written on the wall in old English
and very difficult to decipher —

"Lord Jesus Christ that crounit was with thornse,
Preserve the Birth quhais Badgie heir is borne,
and send Hir Sonne successione, to Reigne stille
Lang in this Realme, if that it be they will,
Als grant O Lord quhat ever of Hir proceed,
Be to Thy Honer and Praise sobied."
1 20

SCOTLAND

Herring seems to be the favorite food of the lower classes.
The fish wives are constantly crying through the streets
carrying them in baskets on their backs, and held in
place by a leather strap passed over the forehead. No
one, a stranger, would ever find the slightest clue to the
cry they utter, their voices are so shrill and discordant,
and their pronunciation so rude.

Edinburgh, August 4th. 1870.
Early this morning I went over to Greyfriars churchyard.
They wouldn't any of them go with me, so rather than miss
it I determined to go alone. As I had only a few minutes I
had time to visit but few graves. The most important one is
the grave of the Covenanters where most of those killed during
the persecution of the Covenanters are buried. I copied the
inscription on the tombstone as follows —

"Halt passenger, take heed what you do see,
• This tomb doth shew for what some men did die,

Here lies interred the dust of those who stood
'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood.
Adhering to the Covenants and Laws,
Establishing the same, which was the cause
Their lives were sacrificed unto the lust
Of Prelatists abjured. Though here their dust
Lies mixed with murderers and other crew
Whom justice justly did to death pursue.
But as for them no cause was to be found,
Worthy of death but only they were found
Constant and steadfast and zealous; witnessing
For the prerogatives of Christ their King,
Which truths were sealed by famous Outline's head,
And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood
Reproaches, torments, deaths and injuries
But yet they're those who from such troubles came
And now triumph in glory with the Lamb."

About 18,000 buried here.

Reference, "Cloud of Witnesses, Crookshanks."

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I came across also another very curious inscription on the
grave of Mrs. Peter LesHe.

"She was!

But words are wanting

To say what!

Think what a wife should be

And she was that.

i8i8."

At one o'clock we left for Stirling, and arrived there at the
end of one hour. Leaving our things at the station we walked
up to the church and ruins of the Castle of the Earl of Mar. In
this church James 6th was crowned King of Scotland, John
Knox preaching the coronation sermon. Stirling castle was
originally a Roman fortress and has since been a favorite resi-
dence of the Scottish Kings. They show to visitors the room
where James 2nd stabbed the Earl of Douglas on his refusing
to renounce his share in a conspiracy formed among three or
four powerful nobles for mutual protection, even against the
King, and exclaiming, "If thou wilt not break the bond, this
shall." The scene took place in the secret council room adjoin-
ing the Star Chamber and his body was thrown out of a small
window and interred near by. In 1797 some masons, while
digging, came across a skeleton which was supposed to be the
remains of the Earl.

In the old churchyard adjoining the Castle I came across
another funny inscription and will write it down as I like to
keep such things.

"Our life is but a winter day,
Some only breakfast and away,
Others to dinner stay
And are full fed.
The oldest man but sups
And goes to bed.
Large is his debt
That lingers out the day
He that goes soonest.
Has the least to pay."

SCOTLAND

From the castle twelve battlefields may be seen, among them
that of Bannockburn. We met any quantity of Highlanders
coming down from the Castle, which is now a military station
and were much amused, tho a little disgusted, with the costume.
At the same time I must say it is a very beautiful and striking
one. It seems funny to see a man with bare legs, his red and
white plaid stockings not coming half way up to the knees,
these are fastened with handsome red garters and the pleated
kilts don't come down to the knees. Then they had on tight
fitting white jackets with a mass of white tassels hanging down
in front and tremendous black hairy caps. I couldn't help
feeling that it w^as a romantic sight, these Highlanders in
their strange costumes pacing the walls of the castle and in the
distance the very Highlands themselves which we shall soon
be among.

The Earl of Mar was a great villain it seems and that he
was conscious of it is proved by the inscriptions over the doors
of his ruined house.

"The moir I stand on oppin hitht
My faultis moir subject as to sitht
I pray al luikaris on this luging
Vith gentil e to gif thair juging."

which, translated, is

"The more I stand on oppin height
Aly faults more subject are to sight,
I pray all lookers on this lodging
\Mth gentle eye to give their judging."

I am writing this at Perth, where we are spending the night.
Perth is made famous by Scott's novel, "The Fair Maid of
Perth."

Banavie, August 7th. 1870.

From Perth to Inverness, by the way of Aberdeen, was a

delightful journey, tho the scenery was not as grand as by the

Highland railway. We were unable to change our tickets or

we should have taken the latter route.

123

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We came near havingtrouble with ourbaggage at Aberdeen.
The train was behind time and we had to rush for seats while
the gentlemen attended to the baggage. Arrived at Keith
father found his valise was "non est." You never saw a man
look so crestfallen — he began to threaten immediately to return
to ^''WAmerique,''^ as he always calls home. All his new clothes
were in it and a new^ blanket shawl that mother had just
bought — but it turned up at Inverness and "Richard was him-
self again." Then there was another adventure. After we
left Aberdeen the train stopped all of a sudden and on looking
out we saw several w^omen screaming and taking on dreadfully,
but it was a long time before we found out what was the matter.
It finally turned out that these women had been in one com-
partment of a car next to a horse (they were common fishing
women) and the horse had broken through the partition, at
least almost through, and had frightened these women so that
they jumped off while the train was running and one of them
was somewhat hurt, and they had to back down the train
for her.

On the way to Inverness is the battle field of Culloden and
not far beyond it we saw the heath near the Castle of Caudor,
where Shakespeare makes Macbeth meet the witches before
the murder of Duncan. We got into Inverness in time to take
supper and in the evening we went out to the town. The river
Ness runs through the town, dividing it into two parts. We
walked up to what we thought was a castle on top of the hill
overlooking the river, but it proved to be a Court House and
jail, and we got into conversation with the old keeper who was
sitting out in front. Father talked with him about the connec-
tion of Scotland and England, and there was an old man sitting
next to him who kept whispering to the jailer to tell father that
Scotland was an unconquered country, that they had never
been conquered.

At Inverness we took the Caledonian Canal to this place,

travelling in a small steamboat. We passed through several

beautiful lakes, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch Lochy, as-

124

SCOTLAND

cending and descending from each by means of locks, dur-
ing which operation we got out and took several walks.
The scenery is certainly very beautiful, and the mountains
are even grand, though the highest, Ben Nevis, is not 4500
ft. in height, but they are mostly destitute of vegetation
and indented by deep fissures which give them a very wild and
rugged appearance. We made only one excursion during the

THE CALEDONIAN CANAL, THE WATER JOURNEY ACROSS SCOTLAND

day (and for that the boat waited for us) to see the Falls of

Foyers, which are very celebrated. The guide book tells us

they consist of two cataracts, but it has been very dry here

for a long time and consequently we saw only one, a very small

affair. I can imagine though that it might be very pretty, when

there is a full volume of water, which by the way is of the same

peculiar amber color as that of the Falls of Montmorency.

125

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Banavie, Scotland, August 8th. 1870.

We are in a charming hotel here, commanding a fine view
of Ben Nevis and the Braes of Lochaber. Charley Greeley
made the ascent of the mountain yesterday morning. They
say it is a very dangerous mountain, there are so many preci-
pices. Charley came very near going over one he came upon
unawares, but the guide called to him and he fell back immedi-
ately and saved himself. Some man went up from Fort Will-
iam the night before and has not been heard of since, though
they have sent up guides to hunt him, but they were unsuc-
cessful and they think he must have perished. What an awful
thing it is!

Last evening we walked across about two miles to an old
ruin called Inverlochy Castle. It is supposed to be a thousand
years old, or rather its origin is unknown. From its appear-
ance w^e judged the materials must have all been brought
there by hand, none of the stones being larger than a strong
man could carry. We stayed there during the sunset and had
a superb view of the surrounding mountains. Mother went
with us but her foot is feeling sore this morning. I think she
uses it too much. We leave for Oban this evening and thence
to Fingal's Cave to-morrow, so I will say good-bye for this
time. I am afraid you won't have patience to read it now.

Your aff. sister,

M. D. R.

P. S. The children ought to trace out our route on
the map. The party all went yesterday to hear Norman
McLeod, except mother and myself. We were so sorry,
father says he is the finest preacher he ever heard.

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

Gotha Canal, Sweden, August 22nd. 1870.

Last Tuesday morning we left the pier of Granton, the
port of Edinburgh, in the steamer Scandinavia, bound for
Gothaborg, Sweden. The only lady on board, besides mother
and myself, was from Dublin, and we three had the ladies'
cabin together. We were glad there were no more of us for
we were so dreadfully seasick that we could not have borne
it at all if we had been obliged to stay in our close berths. As
it was we lay on our backs three nights and two days without
being able to lift our heads. I'm sure I never suffered so in
my life, even father and all the gentlemen were terribly sick.
That German Ocean is an awfully rough customer. I can
well realize that the Swedes and Norwegians must have al-
ways been capital sailors to follow such a sea.

About forty-eight hours out we reached Christiansand, a
small town on the coast of Norway. The vessel stopped there
only half an hour but we had time to land and take a look at the
town, so clean that you would be willing to eat off the street, and
built of wood principally, all the houses having pretty white
muslin curtains and windows filled with flowers. We re-
turned to the steamer laden with cherries and going straight
to our berths there remained until the next morning, when
we came into Gothaburg.

In the meantime in spite of our sickness, we had made

some very pleasant acquaintances, the Irish lady, Mrs.

McGusty, of whom I have already spoken, and her husband,

quite a prominent barrister, and several other gentlemen from

Dublin, also lawyers, and three young Scotchmen. This Mr.

127

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

McGusty seems to hold himself a little above the other Irish-
men and they certainly seem very cultivated people and have
been very polite to us. The others are very witty in the real
Irish way and have kept us fairly convulsed with laughter a
great part of the time.

We were all thankful enough to be on shore once again
and having taken rooms at the Gotha Kallare at Gothaburg,
we "fixed up" and then started off to see the town and observe
the customs of the people, and found plenty to amuse us. Al-
most every street has a canal running through the center,
fenced in with iron railing, crossed with many bridges and add-
ing much to the picturesqueness of the place. After walk-
ing around in the afternoon we took a carriage and drove out
into the country and stopping at the residence of a rich mer-
chant we ascended a rocky eminence in his grounds from which
we had a remarkably fine view of the whole town and sur-
roundings. Driving back we saw quantities of the Swedish
peasantry in their picturesque costumes which remind one
much of the Roman dress as they wear the bright bayadere
striped aprons.

The first evening we went up to the Park, where they
give concerts twice a week, and had the good fortune to hear
some very fine music. The Swedes are very much like the
French in their tastes and in fact their whole sympathy
in the present war is given to the French. This "caffe"
and garden quite reminded me of the summer concerts of
the Champs Elysees. As we came away they played the
Marseillaise and they were obliged to repeat it several times
the crowd became so excited. The next day we went to the
museum and saw a collection of Swedish paintings which
didn't amount to anything and an immense whale, the largest
in the world, all fitted up on the inside as a ship, and we all
went inside, but the odor was something so frightful that we
didn't stay any longer than was absolutely necessary.

At the hotel in this place we had the most delicious apple

pudding, but their vegetables are dressed with some kind of

128

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

sweet sauce that I found very unpalatable. Saturday even-
ing we all went on board the "canal-boat" which is not like
our canal boats, but a regular little steamer only built very
narrow. It was quite funny the way we were packed in, there
was such a crowd of people on board. The boat started at
two o'clock in the morning and we got up at eight just in time
to see the celebrated TroUhatten falls.

To see them we had to take a two mile walk through
the woods while the boat was lifted through a series of locks
and to a level with the top of the falls, the only thing of
the kind in Europe, I believe. We had a delightful walk

THE GOTA CANAL, SWEDEN

through the fine old pine woods and soon came to the falls,
which are the finest in Europe with the exception of Schaff-
hausen. Crossing over to an island in the middle of the stream
we had the full benefit of the roar and rush of the waters
and it was exceedingly fine. Passing beyond we met the boat,
again embarking.

At three o'clock we had our dinner on deck under the awn-
ing, a course which we much preferred to eating down in the
close cabin. They begin a meal in Sweden by eating bread
and butter and cold meats and partaking of a sort of stimu-
lant called "Pomerania" standing at a side table, then they
sit down and take soup and afterwards meat and then comes

9 129

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

fish, the last thing before their dessert. These latter were al-
ways very fine. On this day in particular they brought on
plum pudding and a sauce which was on fire and we had great
fun helping ourselves to it, the wind would blow the flame right
into our faces.

Travelling in this way we spent three days passing through
Lake Wener the third largest lake in Europe, and Lake Wetter.
We often got out to walk when the steamer passed through
locks and that added much to our enjoyment. In one place
the name of which I cannot call to mind, we entered into a
large building which looked like a sort of castle, and the foun-
dations of which appeared very ancient, being built of huge
boulders. Over th^ door was the inscription — "Meuni Maxi-
mum a Domino. " At another time we got off and walked
through a village where we saw a huge May Pole ornamented
with flowers and ribbons which brought to mind Longfellow's
description of a Swedish village scene and May Dance written
as a preface to "the Children of the Lord's Supper."

At another time we visited the most ancient church in Swe-
den, a little old tumbledown affair, but one of the most interest-
ing places I ever saw. There were two tombs of Kings in it with
great gilt crowns suspended from the ceiling over them. In
one of the side chapels was a collection of coffins entirely
different from anything I have ever seen in any museum.
They were piled up one upon another, painted in red ground
with gaudy pictures all over them.

We arrived at Stockholm about noon of the third day and

were met at the landing by a Commissionaire who had come

down to meet us with fine open carriages and said he had rooms

already engaged for us, that they had been telegraphed at the

hotel that we were coming. We could not understand the cause

but thought we would go on so we drove up to the hotel in style

and were ushered into rooms furnished in the most elegant style,

all gold and upholstered with blue. The very rooms occupied

by Burlingame and the Chinese Embassy. They must have

thought we were great bugs by the way they treated us.

130

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

We expected to find Stockholm rather behind the times, in-
stead of that we found it a hvely, gay place, more like a small
Paris than anything else. That afternoon I went riding with
Adr. and Mrs. McGusty through the Djurgatan or Deer Park,
which is the great park of Stockholm, and by many considered
the finest park in Europe. The city is built on three islands, all
connected with bridges, which gives the city a highly pictur-
esque appearance. Our hotel was situated in the place of
Gustavus Adolphus, immediately opposite the royal palace. It
is a fine, well-built city and the people are fine looking and in-
teresting in their appearance.

That evening we took one of the little steamers, which
take the place of omnibuses in other cities, and went to
one of the public gardens, where we heard a fine concert
and saw a grand display of fireworks. The next day we
went through the royal palace and thought it the finest
one we had ever seen. We were most interested in the pri-
vate apartments of the king and queen. In the apartments
of the former we were admitted just as he had left them. He
is an artist of no mean order, and we saw the paintings which
he is now at work on, his sleeping room which is as plain and
unpretending as possible, his smoking room and fine collec-
tion of pipes and meerschaums and his little "armoury," con-
taining a rare collection of costly antiques. There we saw a
set of Colt's revolvers sent as a present to him from Abraham
Lincoln. These rooms may be called his sanctum sanctorum,
and it was a fortunate chance that we were permitted to see
them.

In the Museum we saw the celebrated boots of Charles
the 1 2th and the coat in which he was killed at the battle of
Lutzen, also a collection of the wedding clothes of the differ-
ent sovereigns of Sweden. The most interesting place in
Stockholm to me w^as the church called Ridderholm, in which
are the tombs of Charles the I2th, Gustavus Adolphus, and
General Bernadotte. Their tombs are surrounded with the

131

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

banners of foreign nations captured in battle and the keys of
conquered cities.

An attack of neuralgia in my face prevented me from
going out to Drottningholm, the summer residence of the
royal family, but some of our part}' went and told us that
they were invited into the dining room by the command of
the queen dowager when the dinner was all ready to be served.
Father invited the American minister, Mr. Andrews from
Massachusetts to take dinner with us, and he proved to be
some connection of mother's. We were invited to take dinner
at his house the night before we left but could not.

We were fortunate in seeing the king, by accident, as we
were looking out of the window he passed on his way from the
hunt to his summer palace. He had on a green hunting suit
and was a very fine-looking man. His people think he is not
quite dignified enough as he is very fond of dispensing with
any unnecessary ceremony. The Swedes are the neatest peo-
ple I ever saw% and they have the most delicious food. (We
have just lived on salmon, it is no luxury whatever here.) They
are almost all Protestants and w^ell educated and have that
look of intelligence in their faces, which is the distinguishing
mark between an educated and an uneducated people.

This little trip through Sweden will always be remembered
by me with pleasant feelings because it was such a rest from
ordinary travelling and the country was more than ordinarily
interesting.

Our whole party came to the conclusion that travelling
by canal, though it sounds a little primitive, is a most de-
lightful way of locomotion.

Finland,

Steamer Wiborg, Aug. 26th, 1870.

We left Stockholm this morning at two o'clock, having

come on board last night. Here some of our party left us, to

return, and the American minister came down to see us off.

From eight to eleven this morning it was so rough that we

132

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

were obliged to He In bed until we reached the Aland Islands.
Since then it has been quite smooth. The scenery is very
much the same thing all the time, flat rocks covered
with pine trees. We reached this place at nine o'clock
this evening and have just returned from a stroll around
the town.

We were surprised to find it quite a large well-built town,
having expected to find it a mere village. It was too late to enter
the cathedral, the chief point of interest, so we had to content
ourselves with looking at the outside, as we start off very
early to-morrow morning. It is an immense structure built
of great boulders, fastened together with cement — it is in the
crypts of this church the coffins are left half open, exposing
the embalmed bodies ready for the resurrection. It must be
a horrible sight, but one I should have ventured to look at if
I had had the opportunity. This church was built six
hundred years ago, the first means of introducing Christianity
into the northern country. On our way back to the boat we
stopped to get some lunch in a very attractive looking "caffe,''
but couldn't get anybody to wait on us so came back and got
it here, having found everything very nice on this boat.

August 27th. Helsingfors.

We have stopped again to-night at Helsingfors, the capi-
tal of Finland. The scenery to-day has been much more
varied than usual, in some places quite striking. This morn-
ing we passed an old dismantled castle, the former residence
of the Swedish Kings. The Captain told us that we might
have seen there the old stone floor where Eric somebody used
to pace up and down until the stone was worn into deep hol-
lows. Also passed during the day some very picturesque
ruins of forts.

We begin to hear the Russian language now and last night
a lot of Russian officers and soldiers came on board dressed
in light covered overcoats which reach down to the floor and
while it rained this afternoon they threw a funny pointed

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

hood over their heads which gave them a very wolfish appear-
ance. We entered the harbor of this town just at sunset,
when the whole town was beautifully outlined against the
red ground of the sky. On arriving we went at once to the
Russian church, an edifice built on a high rock and orna-
mented with minarets in the Eastern style and here we
found the evening service going on. It was quite different
from anything I have ever seen. Behind the railing of the
chancel instead of a high altar there was a sort of drawing-
room from which the priests entered dressed in the most gor-
geous apparel. The chanting was fine and it was very in-
teresting to observe the conduct of the worshippers. They
crossed themselves as often and as rapidly as possible and
then falling down on their knees bent over until their fore-
heads touched the floor and then rising again would repeat
the same ceremony. We didn't stay through the service but
proceeded to the Lutheran church, a fine building in the shape
of a Greek Cross, with a large open space in front of it and a
huge flight of stone steps ascending to it.

We then adjourned to the Park, for our supper, and heard
some very good music besides having a fine treat of straw-
berries. I was counting up to-day the length of time that I
have eaten strawberries this year and find it is five months, hav-
ing followed them from Italy to Finland. They use such funny
little carriages here, called "drostkys," something like a very
low basket wagon and over the horse's neck rises an arch of wood
to which the reins are fastened. We think the Finlanders re-
semble Americans more than any nation we have seen. The
men are very distinguished looking both here and in Sweden.

Wiborg, Aug. 28th.
It is nearly midnight, but I don't like to go to bed without
relating the occurrences of the evening, as we get into St. Peters-
burg to-morrow afternoon and I shall have plenty to write
about there. I have had my first Drostky ride to-night and
I can't say I am anxious for another. They only hold two

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SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

people and it is all those two can do to keep in, they shake
about so in every direction, what with the speed with which
they drive their animals and the jingling of the bells one be-
comes quite confused. Our destination was a country place
called Mon Repos, the present residence of the Governor of
Finland.

We found it a beautiful wild place full of moss-covered
rocks and fine old pine trees and with some very pretty water
views, but quite out of repair. The house was of great
extent but only one story high. We enjoyed the ride all
the more that we have been so long on ship-board, it is now
almost two weeks since we left Edinburgh and we have
come all the way by sea and canal. As we came in this even-
ing, it being Sunday evening the sailors from the neighbor-
ing Russian fleet had been on land all day and they were
just embarking in the tugs which had come to convey them
to the steamers, and at least one-half of them were so drunk
they had to be pulled and hauled and some of them carried
on board.

At about eight o'clock this evening the Captain came and
proposed that we should go up to a ball at one of the cafes.
As they keep their Sundays from Saturday night at six until
Sunday at six they think no harm of it, so we all went up and
found it just opening. It was quite a pretty hall, dressed
with evergreens and with the band in a balcony. We went
just as we were with our old shoes and not even gloves on. We
found our Irish friends seated at the top of the room in
state as if about to open the ball. Almost all the ladies
were in short dresses and in fact there was every variety
of costume.

The Captain told us that many Russians came here to
spend the summer on account of the bracing air and that most
of the ladies present were Russians. They were all dressed in the
worst possible taste, but there were some quite nice men, offi-
cers from the Russian fleet. Two of them came up and asked
me to dance, and as I couldn't say anything I was obliged

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to get the captain to apologize for me. The way in which
they take their partners is most amusing. They go up to the
lady and stand before her and she gets up and dances off with
them, all without a w^ord said. I noticed they danced much
more rapidly than w^e do. One man came up and asked me
to dance (in English), so I couldn't refuse, it seems very strange
to think of being at a ball in Finland. We came back in com-
pany with two young Englishmen, who have been shooting
and fishing in Norway for two months, and they were telling
us about the national soup, made of all kinds of fruit, put into
a sort of red gruel, which they say is delicious. They put raw
salmon on the table here and I see the poor children eating all
kinds of fish raw.

St. Petersburg, Aug. 29th, 1870.

We passed the fortress of Cronstadt this morning about
nine o'clock, the most formidable fortress in Europe, sit-
uated on an island at the mouth of the Neva guarding the
city of St. Petersburg, From this point, eighteen miles from
the city, we could see the gilded dome of the great church
of Isaac, situated immediately in front of the hotel in which
we now are. As soon as we had arranged about rooms we
took a commissionaire and started forth. I had read much of
the riches of this church but all that I had read had not pre-
pared me for the reality. It is impossible to appreciate its
richness. In the first place the exterior, built in the shape
of a Greek Cross, has four grand entrances, each one guarded
by many pillars of Finland granite monoliths and polished
like a mirror. They are 60 ft. in height and seven in diameter.
Three immense steps, each one a monolith, lead up to the build-
ing from every side and its whole extent — in short the whole
building is of the most magnificent proportions. The center
dome is also surrounded by thirty pillars of granite and at the
four corners are four smaller domes — on top of the gilded
dome is a huge gilt cross.

On entering the church one is overwhelmed with the mag-

136

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

mficence on every side, floors and walls all of the most beauti-
ful variegated marbles, mosaic paintings of the most bril-
liant hues. A wall, or screen, as it is called, separates the
inmost shrine from the eyes of the vulgar. The several doors
leading to the inside are of openwork silver gilded and in-
terspersed with beautiful paintings. All the paintings of the
Madonna and Saviour are surrounded with silver and gold
frames blazing with jewels, thousands of diamonds, most of
them as large as a pea, and many of them a half an inch
across, to say nothing whatever of sapphires, emeralds and
rubies. Then forming a part of this screen are ten columns
at least live feet in diameter of real malachite, such as is
used for jewelry, and two columns of lapis lazuli, an immense-
ly expensive stone, all from Siberia.

The inmost shrine presented by the Prince Demidoff, and
costing one million of dollars, is built in the shape of a
small circular temple. The bronze work alone must have
cost enormously — the four grand doors are finer in my eyes
than the celebrated Ghiberti doors in Florence, and on the
four sides of the exterior are bronze bas-reliefs of the grand-
est conception. A bronze railing surrounds the outside of
the immense center dome, surmounted at intervals of three
or four feet by colossal bronze statues of angels — then there
are other bronze groups disposed over the building. I have
attempted to give you an idea of the general style and char-
acteristics of this building but it is utterly impossible for any
one to form an idea of its magnificence — all the riches I have
ever seen at home wouldn't be noticed here — it even cost a
million of dollars to drive in the piles that the structure is
built upon. It was built by the Emperor Nicholas.

We ascended the dome and had a fine view of the city,
giving us an idea of its general position and of the finest build-
ings— there are many in the Oriental style with gilded domes
and minarets, but we shall see more of that in Moscow.
There are very many large and handsome public buildings
and imposing palaces. I have never seen any city contain-

137

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ing so many. There Is one church, built in imitation of St,
Peter's, at Rome, called the Cathedral of our Lady of Kajan,
and named after a picture of the Madonna which it contains,
covered with jewels, one of them of almost inestimable value,
brought from Kajan to Moscow by Ivan Vassilievitch and
from there here by Peter the Great. The shrines of this
church are also very rich — blazing with jewels, but it is not
very rich in marbles. In front of the screen is a railing or
rather balustrade of silver, and all the columns had gilt ped-
estals. The walls are hung with military trophies, flags from
all parts of the world, and keys of conquered cities.

The lower order of Russians are as filthy and unattractive
in appearance as possible — they wear immense long coats belted
in round the waist and I have seen them holding the skirts
up and showing a sort of petticoat underneath. They wear
a very strange hat like a very low beaver and flaring very much
at the top. The Czar is at Peterhoff at present, his summer
palace, not far from the city.

Hotel d'Angleterre,
St. Petersburg, Sept. 1st, 1870.

Mother and I have spent the evening looking out the win-
dow at the sunset on one side and the moon rise on the other, the
great church of St. Isaac looming up immediately before us.
The great bronze angels with extended wings stood out finely
against the red sky.

I would like to go to rest to-night but I had to go to bed
last night with neuralgia in my face and so neglected to do
any writing.

Day before yesterday we spent mostly in the Hermitage,
an immense building reconstructed from the old one built by
Catherine II next to the winter palace as a place of retire-
ment from the cares of state. Here she held conversazione in
the society of artists and literary men who were obliged to
conform strictly to a set of rules. Among others they
were not permitted to speak of anything which took place at

138

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

these meetings — must leave their rank outside — and to be gay
without being noisy. The building is now used as a National
Museum for painting, statuary and gems, coins, &c.

The entrance is very imposing — the portico upheld by
giant figures in gray granite — a staircase of three flights of
marble steps and a gallery runs round the top ornamented
by statuary. Many of the halls are ornamented in Pom-
peian style and overflow with tables and ornaments of mala-
chite and lapis lazuli. The collection of paintings is remark-
ably fine, there is not a single picture in it that is not valu-
able— it is rich in Murillos, Guidos and Rubens, Van Dycks
and Rembrandts, but I have not time to go into details.

From this place we took a rowboat and crossed the Neva
to the island, to see the original hut of Peter the Great. It
is a curious little place with one continuous window all
round it and a second house has been built over it as a sort
of cover. One portion of it is kept as a shrine and here we
found service going on. A child was being baptized I believe,
and its lips were touched to a book the priest held. Here
we saw the little boat Peter built and the chair in which he
used to study his plans for St. Petersburg, and a little foot-
stool on which he used to sit outside his door. Then we went
to the church of Peter and Paul, where all the sovereigns of
Russia are buried. Of course we were interested in looking
at those of Peter and Catherine II. The tombs are all alike,
box-like in shape, of pure white marble with a heavy gold
cross reposing on the top. This church, like all others here,
is magnificently gilded and full of jewels.

Further on we came to a little boat-house just large
enough to hold the second boat built by Peter, which was the
origin of the Russian navy. The attendant gave me a piece
of an old flag conquered from the Persians and at the church
I was allowed to take a flower from a votive offering on the
tomb of the Czar Nicholas — shall put it in my album among
my other treasures.

Wednesday we spent at one of the Czar's summer pal-

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

aces, Peterhoff, twenty miles from St. Petersburg. We went
out by boat, as it lies on the sea, and then took a carriage
and spent most of the day in driving through the vast park
and stopping at the different points. In addition to the Pal-
ace itself almost every emperor has built some sort of a pleas-
ure house in the grounds, that is a house without bedrooms,
arranged to accommodate the court, whenever they happen
to want to lunch or write letters on their little excursions.

One of them was on an island to which we were pulled
over by ropes. It was a perfect little gem of a place, built in
imitation of a Pompeian villa, with a court and fountain in
the centre and the rooms built around it — these latter were
filled with beautiful vases, bronzes and statuary and thous-
ands of elegant little knick-knacks. It seems as if they ought
to be very happy with everything in the w^orld to make them
so. Quite a contrast to this was the odd old-fashioned lit-
tle palace called Mon Plaisir, built by Peter the Great for
himself, with its low ceilings and stiflF uncomfortable looking
furniture. In this house we saw the bed where he died, exactly
in the condition in which it was left, and the kitchen in w^hich
the Empress Elizabeth used to amuse herself by cooking her
own dinner sometimes.

The large palace is very plain in its outside appearance, but
has a very attractive interior. It is decidedly the finest pal-
ace I ever saw. In one room the walls are made of paintings
representing the costumes of the fifty diflPerent provinces of
Russia, very interesting. In others they are one mass of gilt,
the ceiling as well. All are furnished with the richest materials
and in every possible color, and one or two entirely in the richest
Chinese goods; one room especially was striking, having been
furnished by Catherine II, who was a very luxurious person.

I often wonder what they do with all their possessions — they
certainly don't have time to rightly enjoy them. In front
of the palace are the great fountains thought to rival those
of Versailles, and in my opinion they far exceed them. The
cascades are all interspersed with gilded statues and under-

140

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

neath the sheet of falHng water the stone is also gilded so that
it shines through the water, giving it a far more brilliant ap-
pearance than the ordinary style.

In the evening we went to the great Theatre, where Patti
has had her triumphs, to see the Russian ballet. On the way
up the Grand Duke Nicolai passed us in his carriage and hon-
ored us by turning round to look after us. The ballet was
called the Magic Horse and was splendidly put upon the stage.
Some of the scenery was beautiful as fairyland, introducing
real fountains illuminated with different colors. One scene
represented the bottom of the ocean, with perfectly natural
whales swimming about — the crawfish and oysters joined in a
dance with the sea nymphs, very amusing, and at the same
time very wonderful. During the ballet all the Russian cos-
tumes were introduced, Tartars and Circassians, and the
Russian national dance was performed. In the audience was
a Circassian officer of high rank in full regimentals — it is a
very distingue costume. We went with our Irish friends and
we filled two boxes.

The next day we went to hear service at the Convent of
Alexander Neoskoi, where they have the finest singing in St.
Petersburg. It is a very large establishment containing a fine
church and a very rich shrine called the shrine of Alexander
Neoskoi, one mass of solid silver in rich designs weighing over
3250 lbs. of pure metal. The monks stood in a semi-circle
and chanted. Their singing is very effective, though they
are not allowed to use any organ or other musical instru-
ments, but their voices are so heavy and rich that one don't
mind their absence. It is almost impossible to tell the nuns
from the monks, their dress being exactly the same, — of
course when the monks have beards there is no difficulty.

That same day we went to look at furs and I found a muff
I liked very well for 66 dollars, but the best quality were from
250 to 400 rubles or 175 dollars to 280. We put off buying
until we come back from Moscow.

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

AIoscow, Sept. 4th, 1870.

We left St. Petersburg day before yesterday in the after-
noon. In the morning we went to the School of Mines, where
we saw models of all the mines in Siberia and a collection of
Siberian minerals. Such quantities of gems and great pieces
of gold and silver as we saw — specimens of malachite and
lapis lazuli, amethysts and amber, with all sorts of insects
imbedded in it, and there was one piece of beryl, a golden
brown color, about ten inches long and four inches thick worth
over 2000 dollars, and then there were all kinds of gems. We
afterwards went to see the state carriages, a gorgeous array,
I should think fully fifty in number, all of them gilded the
entire surface and some painted in beautiful flowers. Most
of the gayest ones belonged to Catherine II, who always
had her own portrait on them, and then we saw the covered
sledge Peter built for himself and used to travel in, the panes
of the windows were about two inches square and made of
isinglass. There is to be a court procession in a few days when
these carriages will be used. They drive eight horses for each
carriage and they and the footmen are dressed to correspond.
The horses' headpieces alone were so heavy I could hardly
lift them and I don't see how the horses can carry their har-
ness and a postilion besides.

At half past two we left St. Petersburg — did not take a
sleeping car thinking we would run less risk of being devoured
by insects if we sat up all night, but when we arrived in Mos-
cow, after a twenty hours' ride we were so used up that we
shall take the sleeping car in future at all risks. The railroad
was built by Winans & Co. of Baltimore and is a remarkably
fine one. I never on any road have seen such large and
commodious stations. Up to half-past twelve we got out to
eat at four different buffets to kill time. They were al-
ways crowded with people drinking tea in the Russian fash-
ion, that is, out of a tall glass, mixed with sugar and a slice
of lemon. We find it very good and prefer it to tea with milk

when taken alone.

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SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

We were horrified to find the women smoking in the cars,
as well as the men, even those who had all the appearances
of ladies. The fleas were something awful — everything seems
to be alive with them — even in an apparently clean room,
the carpet will be full of them, and as they poison me
dreadfully you can imagine in what a state of discomfort I am.

I send this off just as it is for I cannot put any more into
one envelope. You will find the continuation in another en-
velope.

M. D. R.

Monday morning,
Moscow, Sept. 5th, 1870.

Saturday afternoon, although we were half dead with fa-
tigue, we went out for an hour or two. All the sights of Moscow
with the exception of two or three monasteries and views, are
contained within the Kremlin, a place in the heart of the city,
surrounded by a high wall and situated somewhat higher than
the rest of the city. This is one mass of churches, palaces
and towers, blazing with gilt and brilliant coloring.

The Czar had come down the day before so we were un-
able to gain admittance to the churches or to the palace.
However we found the Tower of Ivan the Terrible open and
passing into it through the Holy Gate we ascended. The Holy
Gate is so called from the miraculous picture of the Redeemer,
which hangs over it, and all persons passing under it are ob-
liged to remove their hats, no class being free from the condi-
tion, not even the Emperor himself. It is a strange sight to
stand there a while and watch the different classes of people
passing under it. The drostky drivers going through at full
speed w'ith reins in one hand pull off their hats with the other
and cross themselves.

At the foot of the tower Is the great bell of Moscow, called
Tzar Rolokol, King of bells. It was cast in the reign of Em-
press Anne and is 67 feet In circumference. Since then it
fell down and has been placed in its present situation at the

143

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

foot of the tower. Among the forty bells now hanging in
the tower there is one which is larger than any other bell
in the world, and the others are graduated down from this
to two small silver bells. The effect of them all rung to-
gether must be very fine. While we were standing in the
courtyard of the palace one of the smaller bells was ringing
and we all thought it was the most magnificent toned bell
we ever heard, the tone was so deep and rich, and it seems to
harmonize with everything.

From the tower we went to the House of the Holy Synod,
where we were shown the robes of the Metropolitans of Mos-
cow, all of them embroidered with jewels, one of them
weighed forty-five pounds and was completely covered with
pearls and cameos, emeralds, rubies &c. They showed us
also a case full of jeweled mitres, equal in richness to royal
crowns. But the most interesting sight to us was the vase in
which the original holy oil, the same with which Mary Mag-
dalen anointed the feet of the Saviour according to the tra-
ditions of the Greek church, was brought from Jerusalem,
and also the silver vessels used in the making of the holy oil.
This holy oil or Mir, is made once a year in this house, the
whole process attended with great secrecy, and all the vessels
used in the process are of solid silver or gold. It is sancti-
fied with a few drops of the original oil and it is with this
that every child in Russia is baptized. The bishops come from
all parts of Russia to Moscow at a certain time of the year
to obtain their share.

The next morning early we took a carriage and went out
to the parade ground to see the Czar drill some cavalry.
We could not get near enough to see much of the practice
though we saw them rush forward swinging their swords on
each side of the horse, and then we had to rush for dear life
to see the Czar for as soon as the drill was finished he was
driven away as rapidly as possible, but fortunately we man-
aged to drive up just as he came along. He was in an ordi-
nary open carriage drawn by two fine black horses and with-

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SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

out any footmen. His son Vladimir sat beside him and both
were wrapped in military grey cloaks.

We followed on as far as the gate of the summer palace
and then drove for a while in the park which surrounds it.
All this took place on Sunday, which they do not seem to
distinguish from any other day and yet they are a very devout
people for all that. They never pass a church or picture of
Christ and Madonna but they stop to cross themselves and
say a prayer and as those things occur at every step it keeps
them pretty busy.

The Russians are the dirtiest people in existence and
equally ignorant and superstitious, though it is not to be won-
dered at when you consider how long they have been enslaved.
There is nothing prepossessing about their personal appear-
ance, their countenances are stupid and treacherous look-
ing, but the higher classes seem like a different race from the
peasantry. They are quite distinguished looking and fash-
ionably dressed, but the greatest eaters I ever saw.

Sunday afternoon we went into the different churches of
the Kremlin, the oldest and most interesting of which is the
Church of the Assumption, built with five gilded domes, sup-
ported on the inside of the church by four huge frescoed pil-
lars. It is here that the coronation of the Czars has taken
place since the time of Ivan the Terrible, and it is considered
the most sacred church in Russia and is full of tombs of the
great dignitaries of the church and state. In one corner St.
Philip, who publicly rebuked Ivan the Terrible for his in-
iquities, is buried. There is the wooden throne in which the
Czars previous to Peter the Great used to stand to hear mass.

All Russian churches are very much alike, so I will not say
anything of the churches of the Archangel Michael and of the
Annunciation. The most unique church in all Moscow is just
outside the Holy Gate and is called St. Basil the Beatified.
It is built with eleven domes, each one of a different color and
shape, one of them I remember looked exactly like a pine-
apple, and the church inside consists of eleven chapels under
lo 145

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

these domes. There is a tradition that John the Terrible, at
whose order the church was built, had the eyes of the Italian
architect put out that he might never build another like it.

Just at sunset we drove out of the city past the Empress's
villa to the Sparrow Hills, a fine eminence, from which we
obtained the finest possible view of Moscow and I venture
to say there is nothing to surpass it in the world. It was from
this side that Napoleon approached the city and when his
troops caught their first glimpse of the beautiful city, they
pushed on invigorated by the sight and shouting Moscow!
Moscow !

We had an opportunity of hearing the peasants sing, and
I never heard anything so funny in my life. A lot of young
girls stood in a circle, holding each others hands and walk-
ing slowly around. One girl would sing a sort of solo without
any words in a way that reminded me of the way old people
sing w^ho have lost their voices, and then all the others would
join in and as they always sang in a minor key the effect was
the strangest possible.

St. Petersburg, Sep. yth.

We had had some intention of going from Moscow to the
Fair of Nijni-Novgorod. A very celebrated Fair has been held
there for ages. People came to it from all parts of the world,
and it was one of the great centres of trade, but of course it
cannot last long after railroads bring the different parts of
the country into communication. Here the Tartars and the
Persians, the Laplanders and the Chinese all bring their goods.
But we finally concluded not to go, as we should have had to
ride two nights in succession without sleeping cars and we
thought that it would hardly pay. We would have been al-
most to China then, and I am almost sorry we did not go.
Our waiters at the hotel were Tartars and they look very
much like the Chinese.

Monday morning we went out and bought some Russia

sable skins to make me a muff, and in the afternoon started

146

SWEDEN, FINLAND AND RUSSIA

for St. Petersburg. We took a sleeping car but were nearly
eaten up alive by the fleas. As soon as we reached St. Peters-
burg we obtained entrance to the Winter Palace, which w^e
had not been able to see before. It was undergoing repairs
and so all the curtains and cornices were down. We were
not permitted to see the Emperor's or Empress's rooms, but
were admitted to those of the empress's mother, the daughters
and the children's rooms, the ball-room and others, also
to the very plain room where the Emperor Nicholas died, and
the clothes which he last wore are lying on the bed.

This palace and that of the Kremlin at Moscow, which we
did not enter as the Czar was there, are the most magnificent
palaces in all Europe, and it is of no use for me to attempt to
describe them. I wish I could give you a faint idea of the
crown jewels of Russia. Of course we saw the great Orloff
diamond, which is set in the royal sceptre. It is almost spher-
ical and at least an inch in diameter. As for the King's
Crown, it is one solid mass of diamonds so that nothing else
is visible, and round the base of it is a chain of solitaires each
one of great size.

Then the Empress's necklaces are something wonderful.
One of them in diamonds was all of solitaires, the pendants
being larger. You never saw such diamonds in your life.
There were sets of diamond trimmings for the Empress's
dresses, some were in Greek patterns and others in more
fancy patterns, and a string of huge solitaire diamonds for a
belt and besides all these there were sets upon sets of pearls,
emeralds and rubies. After seeing such jewels as those one
would never care to buy what one sees in shops. The chil-
dren will be interested in knowing that the Czar's children
have a play-house in their suite of apartments, fitted up ex-
actly like a house and beautifully furnished. I went all
through it but I had to stoop a deal to get into it.

I have never seen any city I liked better then St. Peters-
burg. The public buildings are very imposing, the shops
magnificent, the streets wide and well paved and always

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

crowded with people, while the great number of officers in the
streets gives it an attractive appearance. The funniest sight
was to see mother and me in a drostky. I think I have de-
scribed them to you before. They drive them at headlong
speed and when they dash round the corners it is something
frightful. The seats are none too large for one, so people
always ride with their arms around each other's waists. At
first we didn't like them at all, but in a few days we got to
be really fond of them.

EN ROUTE

Vienna, Sep. nth, 1870.

We left St. Petersburg at noon of the eighth and after
a dreadful ride of thirty hours through very uninteresting
country we reached Warsaw in Poland where we spent the
night of the loth. We would have liked to see more of
Warsaw — it was such a beautiful looking city, but we were
anxious to get news from home so pushed on to this city,
which we reached early this morning. A fifty-four hours' ride
is beginning to tell on us, and besides we have been out all
day shopping, as we have arrived here in a needy state. It is
a beautiful city and seems to be very fashionable.

We went in to Vesper service at St. Stephens, a mag-
nificent Gothic cathedral something like the Milan church in
elaborate carving. All the aristocrats live in the old portion
of the city, the centre of it, and what was the old wall of the
city is laid out as a garden. Vienna is such a lively, jolly sort
of a place we should like to spend several weeks here and enjoy
ourselves, for they say the people of this place enjoy life more
than the inhabitants of any other city in Europe.

Munich, Sep. 15th, 1870.

Thursday night.

I was sick all day Sunday in Vienna and so father and

mother stayed at home and didn't see anything, and though

I was quite miserable Monday morning we took a carriage

and drove all round the city. We all remarked the clean,

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

neat appearance of the people, they all seemed well-to-do,
quite different from the Russians in that respect. We drove
past the Royal Palace, a large mass of buildings with an open
space in front. The streets pass right under it and through its
middle court. We did not care to enter, though w^e could not
have done so as the Empress was at home, but as for me I am
sick and tired of palaces and don't care ever to enter another.

In the afternoon we drove out to Schonbrunn, the favor-
ite summer residence of the royal family. On our w^ay out
we passed the new Opera House, now the finest in Europe.
Schonbrunn, built by Maria Theresa, is beautifully situated
at the foot of a high eminence, the side of which behind the
palace is laid out as a Park and at the very top is a sort of
Temple called Glorietta, from which may be obtained the
finest view of Vienna possible. The Park is laid out very
much like that of Versailles.

They say that the Palace of Versailles is used as a hospital
now. It seems a great sacrilege.

When we came back into town it was quite late but w^e
profited by the remaining light to see the Church of the
Capucines. In the vaults under this church the bodies of the
royal family of Austria have been deposited for centuries.
Conspicuous in the centre is the sarcophagus of Maria The-
resa and her husband Francis and they say she visited this
tomb, for thirteen years after his death, every day. Their son
Joseph 2nd and the favorite ruler of Austria lies at their feet.
Marie Louise, the second wife of Napoleon, and the young
King of Rome, are also buried here, and Maximilian, who
was shot in Mexico, the Arch Duke Charles and many others.

The next morning our first visit was to the church of
the Augustines to see the tomb of the Archduchess Chris-
tine, designed by Canova. His own tomb in Venice is a copy
of this one. I remember writing you about it last winter and
that certainly made a greater impression on me than this one,
though it might have been owing to the time and place. Here
the hearts of the royal family are placed in silver urns in a

150

EN ROUTE

small cell into which you look through an iron grating. In
one of the chapels are the tombs of the celebrated Gen. Daun
and Van Swieten, the physician of Maria Theresa and of Leo-
pold second.

From this church we went to the treasury, a part of the
Museum connected with the Royal Palace. This is indeed
a magnificent collection of valuable articles of every kind,
gold and silver plate, carved ivory work, &c. Here we saw
the Crown jewels, the three large crowns of Austria, Bo-
hemia and Hungary, which I think as fine as the crown of
Russia; then there were sets of rubies and diamonds and emer-
alds and diamonds and some fine pearls, but after the lavish
display of jewels I saw in Russia they failed to make the im-
pression upon me that they might have done otherwise.
Among the historically interesting curiosities was the regalia
of Charlemagne, taken from his tomb at Aix-la-Chapelle and
the silver cradle presented to the young king of Rome by the
people of Paris.

In the Imperial Library which is a large and splendidly
ornamented room, we saw a rare collection of illuminated
manuscripts and rare editions of old works — the original
manuscript of Torquato Tasso's Jerusalem Delivered. We
found a visit to the Royal Riding School very interesting.
The servants were riding the most beautiful Arabian horses
I ever saw. Such beautiful creatures as they were. One of
the men made his horse dance for us and walk sideways, &c.,
all without saying a word.

After spending some little time shopping, during which we
met the Greeleys who have just come down from Dresden, we
went to the Royal Picture Gallery called the Belvedere. It is
the second in Germany in size and quality. I was particularly
pleased with some of the modern paintings by German Artists.
Of the old masters I liked best a Madonna and Child of Van
Dyke and his Christ on the Cross, and a Madonna and Child
by Carlo Dolce and the head of the Mater Dolorosa by the
same, and the Ecce Homo of Titian.

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

In the evening we went to the Folks-garten to hear the
celebrated Strauss band play. Strauss's son led the band and
he entered into the spirit of the music so that it seemed as if
he were about to whirl off into a dance every moment. I
never heard such music in my life. I think it would almost
make a dead person dance.

Yesterday morning we left Vienna and were obliged to stay
over night at Salzburg, a lovely spot in among the mountains.
The Hotel was large and delightful with a splendid view from
the windows and a fine garden around it. We walked out to
Mozart's dwelling house. It had a harp on the outside and
the sign "Mozarts Wohnhaus. " It was pouring rain and that
with the sound of the river which runs directly through the
hotel I could almost be convinced I was near Niagara.

Geneva, Sep. 19th, 1870.

It is over a week since we left Munich to make a hurried
tour through Switzerland. I did not find Munich a very
interesting city outside of the picture gallery and the great
statue.

It took us two days to go through these galleries and we
were well repaid for the labor. In these galleries are the cele-
brated pictures of beggar children by Murillo, and we bought
copies of tw^o of them. There was one room filled with pic-
tures by Adrian Van Der Werff, which pleased me more than
any collection I ever saw — they were so soft and beautifully
finished. There are many gems of the old masters also, es-
pecially of Carlo Dolce. A new Pinacothek contains the cele-
brated Destruction of Jerusalem by Kaulbach and Schorus'
picture of the Deluge, unfinished.

We drove out to the colossal statue of Bavaria, designed by
the great Schwanthaler. In standing below and looking up
you don't get the faintest idea of its immense proportions.
It is an immense female figure clothed in fur and at her side
crouches the Bavarian lion. It will give you some idea of its
size that seven of us sat down inside the head at one time.

152

EN ROUTE

Some parts of the royal palace were very fine, especially the
ball-room and the throne-room, the latter is decorated with
colossal gold-bronze statues, representing the different Bava-
rian princes and Charles 12th of Sweden, There is one court in
this palace containing a grotto made of shells, very elaborate
and beautiful, and in another part is a huge stone weighing 364
pounds, which the Duke Christopher used to throw a great dis-
tance— there were three marks on the wall to indicate the height
to which the princes used to jump. Father insisted that he used
to be able to go as high as the lowest one but on making a trial
he was altogether unsuccessful.

We met the Hoyles again in Munich and saw quite a
good deal of them. The morning before we left I went to the
cathedral to hear an extra service, it being a grand fete day.
It was terribly rainy and no one would come with me, but I
was fully repaid by the fine music.

We visited the bronze factories and saw the whole operation
of bronze casting, the amount of labor and patience required
is something wonderful. They are at work on several fine
monuments for America and Lincoln Monuments, one each
for Michigan and Rhode Island. At the Arsenal we saw some
of the "trophies of war" as they call the old clothes, canteens
and other rubbish they have captured from the French.
Among these trophies was a soldier's mattress all saturated
with blood, a horrible sight.

W^e left Munich the next Monday morning for Zurich by
the way of Romanshorn. This town is beautifully situated
on the lake of the same name with lovely views of the moun-
tains in the distance. The next afternoon we three and Mr.
Whitelaw and Charley Perry went by rail to Zug on Lake
Zug and from there by steamboat to Arth with the intention
of making the ascent of the Rhighi.

Arth is a lovely little place and after a beautiful walk
during sunset we returned to the hotel for our dinner, where
we being the only guests the landlord had laid out his last
penny to please us. We were quite surprised to have so nice

153

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

a dinner in such a small hotel. The only drawback was the
powerful odor of the stable which saluted us. In searching
the next morning I was hardly surprised to find the stable situ-
ated immediately under the room where we had taken our
dinner.

After a good night's sleep I rose refreshed and went into
the village church while breakfast was being prepared and
heard some very pretty choral music. At eight o'clock we
were all mounted on horses pursuing the track up the Rhighi
— it proved a very easy ascent interspersed with magnificent
views of the Alps. The time passed so rapidly we were at
the summit almost before we knew it. There is a large and
stylish hotel there where we had a fine dinner, which rather
detracts from the effect of the trip according to my notion,
but the panorama from the summit of the Rhighi is certainly
wonderful. Alps piled upon Alps nearly all of them tipped
with snow and then the beautiful lakes lying immediately
under our feet, a view not easily to be forgotten.

It is a peculiarly-shaped mountain, rising perpendicularly
from the lakes on one side and sloping back gradually on the
other. On starting to descend the mountain the gentlemen
started to walk and mother and I were to ride, but after a
few steps father's legs gave out entirely and he took the horse
while I went ahead with the gentlemen. We went so much
faster than the horses that we soon were beyond them. We
somehow missed them as they took the direct path to Kuss-
nacht and we went over in the direction of Immensee, to see
the Chapel of William Tell. We were misdirected by little
urchins of whom we asked the way and so wandered out of
our way at least a mile and a half, making the descent and
walking rapidly without resting. I can't attempt to give
you any idea of the beauty of the sunset on the snow-capped
mountains, as I saw it from half way down the Rhighi — every-
thing one blaze of rosy red.

ITALY

Naples, Sep. 25th, 1870.

Here I am way down in Southern Italy and have written
you scarcely anything of our trip through Switzerland. We
found the chapel of William Tell quite repaid us for the fatigue
of our walk. A little stone building with a steep sloping roof,
situated in a very secluded spot and covered with figures and
inscriptions relative to Tell's prowess. A mile and a half
more brought us into Kiissnacht, where we found father and
mother waiting for us. Of course I was dreadfully tired and
so was mother for riding down a mountain on horseback is
conducive to anything but comfort, though of course walk-
ing fatigues the muscles more.

We had a nice supper at the little hotel on the edge of
Lake Lucerne which is the loveliest spot imaginable and early
the next morning drove along the edge of the lake for two
hours to Lucerne, stopped at the Schweizer Hof long enough
to take our dinner and then took a carriage and drove along
the Brunig Pass until nine o'clock. We often speak of that
drive as being one of the pleasantest we have had. As it be-
gan to grow dark we commenced the ascent of a mountain
pass and we all got out and walked.

The valley soon lay far below us and in the distance we could
hear the village bells and then for the first time we heard the
Alpine song. Some man was singing it way down in the valley

155

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and we could hear as distinctly as if he were quite near us.
Charley Perry can do it to perfection, so he often answers
it and they will keep it up for sometime. It is very beauti-
ful when heard at night and echoed from one mountain to
another. We spent the night at Lungern a little town quite
at the head of this valley, where we fared sumptuously and had
a welcome night's rest after the walking we had done during
the day. The next morning we went over the finest part of the
pass to Brienz.

In Switzerland one is constantly surprised at the unexpected
changes in scenery. When you have been climbing a long
time and have reached the top of a valley you naturally expect
to go down on the other side, but instead, when you have
made a few turns you suddenly find yourself quite at the foot
of a new valley and you don't realize that you have made any
ascent at all.

At Brienz we took lunch and then crossed the lake of the
same name to take a look at the falls of Giesbach. The falls
in this country are such small affairs that an American always
experiences a feeling of disappointment. Giesbach tumbles
from an immense height not in one fall but in a series of cas-
cades, all small in themselves but very beautiful when you
place yourself where you get the effect of the whole with all
the cascades in view, with the numerous turns they make.

About four o'clock we came into Interlaken, just in time
to get the benefit of a fine sunset on the Jungfrau, w^hich is
to me the grandest of all the Swiss mountains from its posi-
tion and inaccessibility, though not so terrible as Mt. Blanc.
Interlaken is in a very small plain entirely surrounded by high
mountains. The hotels are ranged in a line facing the Jungfrau
which rises beyond a gorge between two dark mountains, which
stand like sentinels on either side, completely covered from
this point of view with pure white snow. It does not show
its height at first view, but nothing in nature could be more
magnificent than the effect of sunset upon it. The whole vast
pile of snow was changed into rose color which gradually grew
fainter and fainter and long after the other mountains were

156

ITALY

clothed in comparative darkness the summit of Jungfrau was
tinged with the rays of the setting sun.

We stayed over one day at Interlaken to make the ex-
cursion to the Grundelwald glacier. The next morning, there-
fore, we were off at an early hour for the town of Grijndelwald.
On the way we met Mr. and Mrs. Rogers of Cleveland. They
seemed delighted to meet us and we all got mules and made
the ascent together. We went to what is called the Upper
Glacier. It was very dirty and ugly I thought, and only en-
joyed the Grotto. That is a long passage dug into the ice
which is not dark inside for the light penetrates through the
ice but the process changes it into a greenish blue, something
the color of sea water, which made us all look more like corpses
than anything else.

On our way home we heard a solo on an Alpine horn played
by a little boy who stands there day after day for that special
purpose. The horn was at least two yards long of a curved
shape and part of it lay on the ground. They say those who
play rarely live long, it is ruinous to the health, but the effect
is wonderfully beautiful, the tones are so powerful and yet so
sweet and carried along from one mountain to another they
come back to you again from the distance like an echo. They
also fired a cannon for our benefit in front of the glacier and
there was a remarkable echo. The blast was taken from the
cannon by a mountain and hurled from that to another and
so on until it travelled beyond the reach of our ears and was
left to the imagination.

Mr. Rogers is much thinner than he used to be — says he
has walked all his flesh off in the mountains — a very easy
thing to do. They came over in the evening to call on us and
the next morning we went by boat to Thun on Lake Thun,
where we used the railroad again. We reached Berne the
capital of Switzerland at noon and took a stroll through the
town, went to the bear pit after which the town is named
they say, and which I very much doubt, and concluding there
was nothing to be seen there went on to Fribourg, which I
will describe later.

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Naples.

There is a magnificent surf rolling in this morning after
the late storms, but it has cheated me out of a trip to Capri
and the blue grotto, which I was so anxious to see. We have
been here four or five days and have been going over the same
ground as last winter and some things in addition. Day be-
fore yesterday we drove out to Pompeii and on the way back
stopped at Herculaneum, which I had never seen before. It
seemed to me more wonderful than Pompeii because it has
to be seen in the dark, i. e. the Amphitheatre. Unlike Pompeii
it was overwhelmed by liquid lava and is very difficult to
excavate, so that they have only dug passages through in
different places.

Yesterday we made the excursion of Baise, the favorite
summer residence of the ancient Romans and went all over
the classic ground of Cumse and Lake Avernus, Cape Micenae
and the Dead Sea, under which the ancient city of Micenae
lies buried. We couldn't get mother to enter the Grotto of
the Cumsean Sibyl, though it seems the Queen of Prussia has
done it. I entered for the first time the hot baths of Nero;
they are dug in so near to a volcano that the heat is intense.
We went through a narrow passage — had to walk with our
heads down nearly to the ground in order to breathe, but sev-
eral times, I was unable to, the air was so hot. We were not
in more than five minutes but I was wet through with the
heat and perspiration. We had a glorious ride home by
the sea. In all my travels I have seen nothing equal to the
beauty of the bay of Naples, that is for a sea view. It would
be delightful to have a summer residence on the road be-
tween Naples and Pozzuoli on the high land overlooking
the bay.

I must stop now as the omnibus is at the door to take us
to the station for Rome. I will try to write soon again.
In great haste,

M. D. R.

158

ITALY

Florence, Sep. 28, 1870.
Dear Cliff,

I sent off a letter to you several days ago from Rome and
now we have come back again to Florence and are going to-
morrow to Venice and from there over the Brenner Pass to
Munich. It cannot be long now before we sail as we shall
travel pretty rapidly up through Germany to Holland and
Belgium and down to Brussels, where we shall be obliged to
do our shopping unless an armistice* is declared and we can
get down to Paris. We should like to be in Rome to see the
entry of Victor Emmanuel. We had heard that it was to take
place on the 27th of this month and had expected to be present,
but it seems he don't want to act rashly and is going to wait for
the full concurrence of the other European powers. I don't
know whether I told you that the Pope, ever since the change
in his affairs, has shut himself up in the Vatican and refuses to
attend to any of his duties — a very naughty frame of mind for a
man who has just proclaimed himself infallible to all the world.

In making one of our excursions outside of Rome we passed
by the place where the troops of the King effected their en-
trance through a breach in the wall, on the 25th of Sept. Two
or three of the city gates and the whole extent of wall between
them are quite perforated with holes made by cannon balls,
especially the Porta Pia, the gate named after the Pope him-
self. The Italians seem all to be rejoiced in this movement
against the Papal States and in Rome whenever the troops
marched through the streets there were the wildest demonstra-
tions of joy among the people.

The Italian military music is something entirely different
from anything I ever heard. The bands are composed entirely
of bugles, all playing the air, and their marching is quite an
exemplification of the old motto "every man for himself — the
devil take the hindmost," not that they march out of order,
but that they go so very fast.

And now I will take up my account of the Switzerland trip,

* The Franco-Prussian War of 1870 was prevailing.

159

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

which I left off at Fribourg. The finest toned organ In the world
is there and a short concert is given every evening for the bene-
fit of travellers. Unfortunately the train in which we wished
to go to Lausanne was to leave in the middleof the concert and
the celebrated storm piece is always played last, so that I had to
have an interview with the organist to implore him to play that
before we left, which he politely consented to do, though of
course it must have spoiled the effect of his concert. It is of
no use for me to try to describe. I don't think anybody could,
but it seemed to me that the wonderful echoes he produced
from that organ came nearer to realizing the "still small voice"
coming out of the storm than anything else I can think of.

At nine o'clock again we were off and were at Lausanne,
or rather at Ouchy, a lovely village on Lake Geneva, at mid-
night. Here we stopped two days to obtain the repose we
needed so much, and in the meantime made the excursion
of Lake Geneva. As everybody goes into raptures over it
(generally those who haven't travelled very extensively) I
will omit to do so. I flatter myself I ought to be something
of a judge as I have now seen nearly all the lakes of Europe —
all I believe with the exception of the two large lakes of
Russia, Lake Ladoga and Lake Poipus, and they are all so
entirely different that it is almost impossible to say which is
the most beautiful. As far as I am concerned, Lake Como,
take it all in all, pleases me more than any other.

Geneva was very uninteresting but we had to stay there
a day or two in order to get your watch, but finally we started
off one fine morning for Chamounix. The diligence (which
was our first) was a funny top-heavy affair with room for 25
outside and for nobody inside, and the five of us, even with
aid of two others, young gentlemen who were going the same
way, made rather a poor show in the roomy vehicle. When
we descended on ladders at noon to partake of some lunch
there was the usual admiring crowd of male bystanders pres-
ent on such occasions. The scenery became more grand at

every turn as we approached Mt. Blanc and wound through

160

ITALY

the narrow valley of the Chamounix between the towering
mountains on either side clothed with dark green firs up to
the line where vegetation ceases and beyond the eternal snows.
We found the Fields and Jessops of New York and the
Greeleys just returned from the trip across the Mer de Glace,
which we were to take the next day, and they had been
very much disappointed. That night I saw the finest sunset

ON LAKE GENEVA

I shall ever see in my life; the clouds rolled down on the sides
of the Mt. Blanc chain and when the sun was almost down the
clouds became a brilliant red and above all the brilliant white
peaks towered up in splendid relief, while the summit of Mt.
Blanc itself without a cloud, was a brilliant mass of red and
then when the coloring had all faded away the new moon at-
tended by one star appeared suddenly hanging over the highest
peak of the mountain.

II i6i

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Venice, Oct. 30th, 1870.

We arrived here late last evening, after a long and fatigu-
ing journey from Florence. Do you know what is meant by
asking if I have heard the Philadelphia news ^ I suppose it
must be that Frank is going to be married or something of
that kind. Have you heard of anything to that effect? We
leave to-morrow for Verona and shall soon be on our way
home.

Leaving Venice Monday afternoon we arrived at Verona
in time for dinner. Here we were to stop all night in order to
take the early morning train over the Tyrol. I met a young
Italian with whom I was acquainted and he took us round in
the evening to see as many of the sights as possible, to the
town hall and the remnant of the old Palace of the Scaligers,
the street of tombs some of which were of the most beauti-
fully carved marble like a small Milan cathedral in minia-
ture. We could only get an idea of the great Roman Amphi-
theatre, the most perfectly preserved of all the Roman ruins,
and last of all to the tomb of Romeo and Juliet in the garden
of the old Capucin Convent. As we had to look at it by the
light of a lamp it was on the whole rather a quixotic expedition.

At five o'clock the next morning we were on our way
towards the mountains and towards noon we arrived at snow.
We were not half prepared for such cold weather and suffered
very much in consequence. It was rather an extreme change
from the heat of Naples in one week to a snow storm on the
Tyrol.

We formed the acquaintance of a young English clergyman
who helped us to pass away the long hours. We expected
to have gone through to Munich that night but on arriv-
ing at Innsbruck found that the train would go no further
than Kufstein, so on arriving there we left our baggage at
the station and then proceeded to hunt up the Hotel de la
Poste, which was considered the best the town could afford.
We found it a regular German Gast-Haus full of noisy smok-
ing beer drinking men all trying to see who could exceed the

162

ITALY

other in making an uproar, and we were obliged to take some
kind of German meat for our supper which was not very bad
after all, and to sleep on feather beds, or rather between fea-
ther beds, for there was one on top as well, so altogether we
had rather a funny time of it. The Brenner Pass was a very
grand one, but we were prevented in a great measure from
seeing its beauties by the inclemency of the wxather. The
atmosphere being so thick with snow it was impossible to get
an extended view.

I want to finish the Switzerland trip to-day if possible so
as to have nothing to do until I get to Dresden. How glad
I shall be when I come to an end with all this writing, and yet
I hardly feel willing to return so soon. The F's invited me
to go with them to Egypt, but Father and Mother think that
I am so very thin that I ought to go home and rest and de-
vote myself to getting fat.

We spent two days in Chamounix making an excursion
each day. The first was that of Montanvert and the Mer de
Glace, of which I had formed my ideas from a terrible descrip-
tion by Miss Bremer, who must have been an exceedingly
great coward. The reality was the tamest thing imaginable —
all we did was to ride up to Montanvert on horseback and then
cross the ice, where the passage was as easy as walking on
land. There were crevices to be sure, but so very narrow that
I stepped across them without the slightest sensation of ex-
citement and of course I wouldn't give a snap for a trip of
that kind without any excitement.

The celebrated Mauvais Pas has an iron railing on each side,
so that one couldn't possibly fall oflF unless one did so purposely
for the sake of the experiment. I was sufficiently fatigued how-
ever with the walk to be glad of a little rest at the Chapeau.
I forgot to say that we were photographed in coming over the
Mauvais Pas. There were three young gentlemen, tw^o American
and one English, at the hotel that evening and we had an anim-
ated council in regard to a move for the next day. I had set my
heart on the Grands Mulcts, the next most difficult excursion

163

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

after Mt. Blanc, but the trouble was to get any one to go along.
Finally Charley Perry decided upon going and I induced
Father without giving him any notion of what he had to go
through.

At six o'clock on the following morning we mounted our
mules and started off, with two guides, down the vallc)^ I

CHAMOUNIX, FOOT OF MT. BLAiN'C

was well wrapped for it was very cold. I had put on all the

flannels the family afforded. We commenced the ascent by

following the bed of a torrent then dry and after a delightful

ride of two hours and a half through glorious pine forests and

along raging mountain torrents we finally reached the line

of vegetation and soon after the Chalet of Pierre Pointue.

Glad enough were we to dismount from our mules, for we were

quite numb from sitting so long, in addition to the sharpness

164

ITALY

of the autumn air at that elevation, six thousand feet above
the level of the sea.

The proprietor of the Chalet we had encountered in the
village and he returned with us and set himself hard at work
to get us something to eat. There was not a sign of fire
about the house, but by means of putting our feet into the
stove we managed to get them warm, and as to the rest
we had to trust to cloaks. We had to sit for some time
without our boots while the guides put some heavy nails
into the soles of them, then we took the apology for breakfast
with which they furnished us and having each been provided
with a leather belt and goggles we went upon our winding way.

We first climbed along a zigzag path for about two thou-
sand feet and then came a very difficult portion of the way
which the guides told us was the most difficult portion of the
entire ascent of Mt. Blanc. There was great danger of ava-
lanches at one point and although the footing was scarcely
two inches wide, we were obliged to run along as fast as pos-
sible, holding on to the edge of the cliff. As I had just reached
a point where a small waterfall came dashing down over the
rocks the guide shouted for me to go faster and I was obliged
to dash right through the water, but as I don't remember
being wet afterwards, I suppose I went through so rapidly
there was no time for such a thing. After this experience was
over we were on the glacier des Bossons, and I wish I was
adequate to a description of the wonders we saw, and the
perils we braved.

As we commenced the upward journey a strange pros-
pect loomed up before us, tall needles of ice of immense
height as we always found on approaching, though at a dis-
tance they seemed quite inconsiderable, and at Chamounix
they v/ere indistinguishable. The greatest excitement, how-
ever, was in surmounting the obstacles which presented
themselves, for instance quite in the beginning we were ob-
liged to climb a wall of ice about seven feet high which in-
clined toward us. It looked quite impassable but by dint of

165

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

cutting footsteps at intervals they managed to haul us up by
ropes, and then we came to a seemingly impassable inclined
plane of ice, sloping at an angle of about 95 degrees.

Here we were all tied together with ropes and then the
guides going forward cut into the side of the precipice so that
we could just find foot room, but generally for one foot only,
we remaining in that graceful attitude until we could change.
I think about that time I must have been a picture which would
have delighted the eyes of a fastidious critic. With my dress
well up to be out of the way and a huge leather belt which was
not well adjusted, and a knotted rope dragging after me, some-
thing after the manner of a Capucine, all this surmounted by
a very small head well wrapped up in a blue comforter and
ornamented with green goggles, and to cap the climax a huge
thing which resembled the ruin of an umbrella fastened on
to the top of my hat, to preserve my complexion, the guide
said. It didn't answer that purpose, however, for it kept
flapping about like a huge wing so that I finally put it
back and then it looked like a caricature Aurora Borealis.
In this guise I wormed over the glacier, but seriously there
were places where after I had gotten over them myself I stood
and held my breath while father crossed. At one time he
stood on a piece of ice jutted over a fearful chasm and it was
not over two or three inches thick.

There were dozens of just such places where we were in
danger of death every minute, but finally we emerged into an
open space where we had nothing to contend with but the cold.
We had reached the point where the snow never melts but lays
in long prisms and we could not stand still one moment but our
feet would freeze to the ice. The view was something inde-
scribable, the mysteries of that terrible region lay before us.
I can only leave that to the imagination.

When we reached the top or rather Grands Mulcts we took

a lunch and then started down. The fatigue was terrible, but

after any quantity of slips and tumbles we got over the

glacier and came to the avalanches again. I think we saw five

166

ITALY

or six during the trip. Charley Perry just escaped being
killed — we heard a crash above us and jumped aside in-
stinctively and in the very place where he had been stand-
ing an immense fragment of rock came dashing down at a
fearful speed. When we got beyond this danger we amused
ourselves by detaching fragments of rock and dashing them
down the precipice to see them fly into a thousand pieces as
they disappeared into a fearful abyss.

Reaching the chalet again we found to our amazement
that the mules had gone back to Chamounix. We were in a
dreadful state, had to walk all the way to the village. Father
gave out completely and had to have a mule sent back to him
from Chamounix, but I staggered on with Charley over narrow
bridges through the beds of streams and two hours of dark and
after having walked two hours of the hardest kind of climbing
up hill and six hours on ice and three hours straight down, at
nine o'clock I tottered into Chamounix, my last remnant of
strength exhausted, but with the satisfaction of having suc-
cessfully undergone one of the most exciting experiences one
can have in Europe. All that night I woke at the slightest
sound, imagining that I was fleeing from an avalanche. We
stood around the fire at the hotel with tears of joy in our eyes
that night when we thought of the great dangers we had been
allowed to go through unharmed.

Leaving Chamounix we came over the Tete Noire with
mules to Martigny in nine hours and what with my expedi-
tions of the two days before I was in perfect misery when I
had not been on my mule more than two hours, so I tried get-
ting down and walking, but I was so tired that I was forced
to return to the mule, which was the most uncomfortable,
animal I ever rode. At noon we met our American friend
Mr. Tilney and took lunch together. During the afternoon
we went through the finest part of the pass, following a narrow
gorge in which were rocks as large as a house, which had fallen
off from the sides of the mountains.

We were high up above it all, the road winding along the

167

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

edge of the precipice and completely shaded by great pine
trees under which the rocky soil was covered with thick
green moss and lovely ferns. Where the mountain cropped
out it was black as ink, as it name signifies. In one place
near, we passed through a tunnel and on coming out had
a wonderful view. There was the valley far below us
which had suddenly widened out in a circular form, and

MARTIGNY

in the centre was a miniature mountain rising from the valley
like an island from the sea. Thankful enough we were to
get to Martigny — so stiff we could hardly reach our rooms,
however.

We found the place besieged by a boys' school from Vevay
making a short tour. They had taken possession of the
table d'hote and we had to do the best we could. More
than half of them were American and English boys, and
they were so delighted they couldn't conceal any of it. Then

i68

ITALY

next morning there was a formidable array of mules on
the open place in front of the hotel, provided for one-half
of them, so they could take turns. I suppose all the little bits
of fellows got on them and started off in great glee, I couldn't
help feeling sorry for the poor little things left off here
alone. That morning we took the rail to Lion and then the
diligence to Brigue, where we arrived in time for an excellent
dinner. We hadn't intended to open the trunk, but father
in poking about the town had found an old shoe shop and
thought he would have the nails taken out of his boots, and
finding it was going to take more time than he expected sent
back for his slippers and so we had to pull everything out and
hunt after them.

We were obliged to get up at five o'clock the next morn-
ing in order to go by the Pass of the Simplon and to reach
Arona that night. The ascent was all well enough and we
had quite a gay time of it — there were four large diligences
and several carriage loads. We reached the Hospice, or high-
est point of the Pass, at about noon.

This is an establishment somewhat similar to that of the
St. Bernard, where monks reside and entertain strangers.
There were also some St. Bernard dogs, which are all tan
colored instead of black, as I supposed. They have fine, in-
telligent faces, though not as handsome in appearance as I
had expected. After leaving this we descended rapidly and
the dust became intolerable, but the scenery was so grand
that it was worth any amount of inconvenience. We came
through the finest gorge I ever saw and which fully came up
to my idea of gorges in general. We passed through what
must have been rents in the rock, where the smooth bare
rock rose on each side perpendicularly to the height of at
least two thousand feet.

Arriving at Domo d'Ossola we were once more in Italy —

here we made a short stop, and then going on soon struck

Lake Maggiore, but did not arrive at Arona until twelve

o'clock at night. However we were lighted along our way

169

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

by the full moon and it was very charming, notwithstanding
the fatigue.

The next morning we went up to Isola Bella, where is
the Duke Borromeo's country seat. His gardens are the
finest I ever saw, and must have taken an immense amount
of labor. The solid rock has been cut into terraces and then
covered with soil and planted with the rarest flowers and

LUGANO, SWITZERLAND

shrubs. The palace contains some fine works of art and el-
egant tables and vases, &c. We had got down into a warm
climate where all the people spent their time out of doors.
It was certainly amusing to active Americans to watch them
lolling about doing nothing or else performing their duties in
the most listless, dragging way.

We got on to Luino by boat, a town at the head of the lake,
and a delightful drive of three hours through the moonlight

brought us over to Lake Lugano where we spent the night.

170

ITALY

The next morning we took a stroll through the town and
bought a pair of little peasant girls' shoes in the market for
Lolly to see. We had front rooms at the hotel looking out
upon the Lake as beautiful a view as possible, combining all
the elements of beauty with some of grandeur. An hour's
ride on the Lake the next morning and two more in a diligence
brought us to Lake Como, at the town of Menaggio, and from
this place we took the boat down to Como going over the same
ground I went over with Gen. Fiske last spring, and which I
described to you. The second sight of Lake Como, with all
my lake experience since I had last seen it, left me with an
even more favorable impression in regard to its beauty.
Omnibuses were in waiting to take us to Camerlata, and at
nine o'clock I was once more in Milan. It seemed almost
like going home.

":'wi>:?^--

ENGLAND

London, Dec. 5th, 1870.

We left Brussels early Thursday morning and in one hour
were landed at Antwerp. I had expected that we were to
spend several hours in that city before taking the London
steamer, but found to my disappointment that I had no more
than one hour. So as soon as our things were put on board we
started oflP to the Cathedral to see the celebrated "Elevation
to and Descent from the Cross" by Rubens. With our usual
luck the man whose business it was to show these pictures
obstinately refused to be persuaded into showing them to us
until within five minutes of the time when the boat was to
start. Consequently we sauntered round the town during the
intervening half-hour hunting out interesting relics of the old
Dutch architecture, old Spanish houses, &c., and although
the cold was very penetrating and disagreeable I was so much
interested in the funny crooked old streets and the quaint
old architecture that we were soon back at the Cathedral
where we regarded the wonderful pictures and made the two
minutes' walk all within five minutes.

As a general thing I don't like Rubens but in these sacred

pictures he has certainly shown extraordinary talent. He has

depicted the two different expressions in the face of the live

suffering Christ and that of the dead one, with wonderful skill.

In one of the side aisles I found a head of Christ by Leonardo

172

ENGLAND

da MncI, simply a bearded face without any support, some
thing Hke the one in Berlin by Correggio.

In driving to the boat we passed through the market place
and saw the old market writers in their ridiculous costumes,
an immense bonnet of straw with a high crown rising up nearly
a foot above it, and two great lace lappets hanging out at
either side of the face, and in addition to this headpiece I saw

THE ROYAL PALACE. BRUSSELS

some who had thrown the old-fashioned calash-like hood, at-
tached to a long black cloth cloak they all wear, over the bon-
net. The effect was preposterous.

It was so cold as we went down the river from Antwerp that
we were obliged to stay down in the cabin. I went up to see
the sunset which was something like our Mississippi river sun-
sets, but I soon found myself getting seasick. We all had to
get into our berths by seven o'clock, the channel became so

173

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

very rough, and were as sick as possible for the five hours
until we got into the Thames. I look forward with utter
horror to Saturday next when we shall embark on board the
Russia. Eleven days will seem an eternity. Mr. Whitelaw
called yesterday with young Glasgow and Carson. They are
all going on the Russia. We are stopping at an old-fashioned
house far down on the Strand near the new Victoria embank-
ment, where we can see the boats running to and fro on the
Thames, but it is a very dreary prospect, much better at night
when the streets and bridges are lighted with gas.

Went last night to hear the Messe Solenelle of Rossini.
The cast was as great as it is possible to hear. I certainly
never expect to hear as great a one again. Titiens, Sims
Reeves, Alboni. It was the only appearance of Alboni for
many years. I was prepared to be disappointed because she
is quite too old now to sing, but she sang magnificently in
"Qui Tollis," the duet with Titiens. The chorus was so finely
trained that no one person could have rendered a song with
more expression and the effect of the last chorus in unison
with the "Agnus dei" of Alboni, fairly made the cold chills
come over me. Every time she sang the Miserere notes in her
magnificent chest tones the audience just groaned with sym-
pathy. And when she left the stage she was recalled twice,
and the people all rose to their feet, applauding in the
English fashion, and calling out Ho! Ho! altogether it was
very exciting.

Liverpool, Dec. 9th, 1870.
We left London at ten this morning, arrived at the Adelphi
at four, found it full of Americans going on the Russia
to-morrow. The country between here and London is covered
with snow and it seems quite as wintry as America at this
season of the year. Mother and I expect to be sick all the way
over and look forward with perfect dread to the next eleven
days.

174

ENGLAND

Liverpool, Dec. 9th, 1870.
We are all laughing very much at the conversation of a
gentleman named Moore, who has lived in Paris in some
official capacity. He has just shown us a newspaper which
is being published at present in Paris. It comes out regularly
by balloon, is about eight inches square.* He says there was
never a place where a man is so downtrodden as New York.
They hold our noses to the grind-stone and keep them there
while they grind and the blood flies, and we cry beautiful!

On board, Dec. loth, 1870.
We were all drummed up early this morning and after a
good hot breakfast came down to the tender, where we were
fairly crammed, packed like sheep, there being some two
hundred and thirty or more passengers. All the faces are
quite familiar — we having met most of them at one time or
another while travelling. Gen. Burnside and wife are on
board, Gen. Hazen and quite a number of distinguished
people. I never saw such a nice set of people together. They
are all down getting the trunks into the staterooms and I
seize the opportunity to add a few last words, for I know I
shall not get out of the river even without being sick. I can't
realize that I am at last really on my way home.

* Paris was besieged by the Germans and shut off from the outside world.

THE JOURNEYS OF 1892

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1892

On board S. S. City of

New York June 15,

Earl and Countess Meath June 16,
Concert, Salvini, Clemen-
tine De Vere and Pow-
ers sing June 20,

Liverpool June 23,

The Adelphi Hotel June 23,

Chester June 23,

Grosvenor Hotel, ChesterJune 23,
Cathedral and old walls,

Chester June 23,

Excursion to Duke of
Westminster's Palace,

Eaton Hall June 24,

Leamington, Haddon Hall

Warwick Castle June 24,

Stratford on Avon June 26,

Oxford June 26,

Entertained by Prof. Ger-

rans June 26,

Magdalen College, Iffley,

beauties of the Colleges June 26,
Daylight 'till 10 P. M.. . June 26,

London June 26,

Entertained by Mactears June 29,
Henry Irving in Henr>'

8th June 29,

Buffalo Bill's Show June 29,

Siegfried at the Opera July 5,

Hampton Court July 2,

"Venice" and Salviati,

Glass makers July 2,

The Brunswick and Met-

ropole Hotels July 3,

Foundling Hospital July 3,

Scoreof Handel's Messiahjuly 3,
Windsor Castle by Coach,

60 mile drive July 3,

London Tower July 3,

Christy's Auction and its

wonders July 5,

Lost Letter of Credit

found July 3,

Isle of Jerse}', St. Heliers July 14,
Isle of Wight, Shanklin,

Newport, Cowes July 14,

Guernsey, Victor Hugo's

house July 14,

Sark July 14,

Dinard July 16,

St. Malo, Dinard July 17,

Mont St. Michel July 17,

Wonders of St. Michel. . .July 20,
Madame Poulard's and

Omelettes July 20,

1892

181

, 1892

181

1892

183

1892

184

1892

184

1892

184

1892

i«5

1892 185

1892 186

1892
1892
1892

186
186
186

1892

187

1892
1892
1892
1892

187
187
187
188

1892
1892
1892
1892

188
189
190
190

1892

191

1892
1892
1892

191
191
191

1892
1892

192
193

1892

194

1892
1892

198

1892

198

1892
1892
1892
1892
1892
1892

199
199

201
202
202
203

1892 203

Trouville and Caen,

Bayeax July 20, 1892 206

Dives, Inn of Guillaume

le Conquerant July 24, 1892 208

Le Mans, home of Queen

Berengaria July 24, 1892 209

Chenonceaux and Am-

boise : . . . July 24, 1892 210

Lunch at the "Bon La-

boureur July 24, 1892 210

Chapel of St. Hubert. . . .July 24, 1892 210
The Emersons of Boston

and the funny poetry. .July 24, 1892 211

Blois .' July 27, 1892 213

Vendome, Tours and the

Rochambeau Chateau .July 27, 1892 213

Grand Hotel de Blois July 27, 1892 213

Blois and Chambord July 27, 1892 213

Vendome July 27, 1892 214

Paris July 29, 1892 215

Eiffel Tower July 29, 1892 215

Dinner on the Tower. . . .July 29, 1892 215
Visit to the Marquise de

Rochambeau July 29, 1892 215

Charms of the Chateau July 29, 1892 216

Interesting dinner July 29, 1892 216

Cave Dwellings July 29, 1892 217

Chartres July 29, 1892 219

Cathedral of Chartres . . .July 29, 1892 219

Hombourg Aug. 6,1892 220

Strasbourg Aug. 6,1892 220

Kurgarten Hombourg Aug. 6,1892 220

Prince of Wales Aug. 9,1892 222

Dowager Empress of

Germany Aug. 9, 1892 222

Nuremburg Aug. 22, 1892 225

Bayreuth Aug. 22, 1892 225

Wagner's Grave Aug. 22, 1892 227

Parsifal Aug. 22, 1892 227

Duchess of Edinborough Aug. 22, 1892 227

Hotel Tyrol, Innsbruck Aug. 25, 1892 228

St. Moritz Aug. 29, 1892 230

Coire Aug. 29, 1892 230

Sairgno Aug. 29, 1892 230

JuHer Pass Aug. 29, 1892 230

Pontresina Aug. 29, 1892 230

Roseg and Morteratsch Aug. 29, 1892 231

Milan Sept. 3, 1892 233

LakeComo Sept. 3, 1892 233

Lucerne Sept. 3, 1892 233

Lausanne Sept. 3, 1892 233

Zermatt Sept. 3, 1892 233

Chiavenna Sept. 3, 1892 234

Bellano Sept. 3, 1892 234

Hotel Metropole, Milan. .Sept. 3, 1892 234

Via Pasquirolo Sept. 3, 1892 234

179

INDEX

Santa Maria dellc Grazie Sept. 3, 1892 234

San Gothard Pass Sept. 4, 1892 235

Lucerne Sept. 5, 1S92 235

Lausanne Sept. 5, 1892 235

Zermatt Sept. 8, 1892 236

Ouchy Sept. 8, 1892 236

Villeneuve Sept. 8, 1.892 236

Visp Sept. 8. 1892 236

Fete day at Visp Sept. 8, 1892 237

Geneva Sept.ii, 1892 238

Paris Sept. 15, 1892 239

Cholera Sept. 15, 1892 239

Normandy Hotel, Paris. .Sept. 15, 1892 239

Mourpe, Opera, Sa-

lammbo Sept. 22,

Luxembourg Sept. 22,

Hippodrome Sept. 15,

Visit to Alfred Durand,

Versailles Sept. 19,

Palace of Versailles Sept. 19,

St. Germain Sept. 19,

Pavilion Henry IV Sept. 19,

London Sept. 22,

Sailing from Liverpool

on the "Citv of New

York" ' Sept.28,

1893 2+3

1892 242

1892 239

1892 241

1892 240

1892 241

1892 242

1892

EN ROUTE

S. S. City of New York,

Wed. Eve., June 15th, 1892.
Dear Frank,

I sent a few words by the pilot this morning and at Sandy

Hook the boat stopped and a little row boat came along side

first one and then another of the three big ships and took the

mail. Cliif and I both went down to lunch and dinner. So

far there is nothing to remind us that we are not on the Sound,

except an occasional lurch. While I am not really seasick I

don't feel as I do on land.

Aboard S. S. City of New York.

June i6th, 9 P. M. 1892.

Another day is past and we are still on our feet. The weather
has been ideal and there is scarcely any motion. We slept well
last night and found our staterooms well ventilated.

We have been on deck all day but I don't do any reading.

The man we thought was Talmadge is Rev. Mr. Satterlee of
New York. The J. Bertram Lippincotts had letters of intro-
duction to him. We have found out the Earl and Countess of
Meath are at the same table with the Cuylers. We have not
yet discovered T. B. Aldrich, the famous author.

We went to our meals but I can't say I enjoyed them and
depend on roast beef principally. I walk around the ship
five or six times a day. I found my long Russian coat just the
thing. No champagne as yet. We got some claret which will
last us several days, to color the water. Good night.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Friday, 17th, 1892.

Another perfect day has passed and we are doing splendidly;
I have been to our three meals and had plenty of conversa-
tion. At half past nine the ship is beginning to roll pretty badly.
I tried to read to-day but couldn't. Up to yesterday noon we
had gone 457 miles and up to noon to-day, 460.

A nice English woman, a Mrs. Barclay, has been travelling
with the Earl and Countess of Meath, and we see a good deal
of her. I walk around the boat every hour or two to keep up
my circulation, and ate a big dinner to-night. They say we
will get to Queenstown Tuesday afternoon and to Liverpool
Wednesday morning. There is certainly more motion and I
rather dread the night, so good-bye,

Your aff., M. D. R.

Saturday eve., June i8th, 1892.

Here we are at the end of the 4th day and the weather has
changed very much. The ship has rolled fearfully every day and
yet we have taken our three meals in the saloon and there seem
to be few sick people. I am so amazed at myself I don't know
what to do. We had great fun at dinner, holding on to the table
and eating between times. To-morrow the Captain will conduct
the morning service and Talmadge is to preach in the evening.

It turned suddenly cold this afternoon so that we thought it
must be owing to the presence of icebergs, and they were tak-
ing the temperature of the water, Clementine de Vere is on
board with her husband Mr. Sapio, also Powers the baritone.
I cannot read at all, so do nothing but talk and watch people.
It seems a long time until Tuesday, but the worst is over. So
many people are going to get off at Queenstown, we shall miss
them. Good night.

Monday, June 20th, 1892.

Yesterday the ship rolled so that both of us were quite un-
comfortable. Rev. Mr. Satterlee preached in the evening and
the Captain read the morning service. Clementine de Vere
sang magnificently up in the organ loft, also Francis Fisher

Powers, but I could only hear a little from the gallery. The

182

EN ROUTE

Irish lawyer got up some sports, which took up all this after-
noon and were quite amusing.

To-night there is to be a concert in aid of the shipwrecked
sailors and all the distinguished singers take part. Salvini
will recite and De Vere and Powers sing, and the Mendelssohn
Club. It will be very fine.

We only made 442 miles up to noon to-day and don't ex-
pect to get to Queenstown until late to-morrow evening and
if we don't get over the bar at Liverpool before 9 a. m. on
Wednesday I don't know how long we will be. We are still
rolling a good deal and I don't know if I will be able to stay
in the saloon long enough for the concert.

12 M. Tuesday, June 21st, 1892.

Our last day we hope, although we are not yet in sight of
land. All who are going off are packing. The weather is per-
fect, but there is enough rolling to make me dread going be-
low to pack.

We had the most delightful concert last night and we all
enjoyed it thoroughly. Salvini recited first a short Italian piece
and then the Star Spangled Banner. It was a fine tribute to
America in the face of so many English. A Mr. Coleman, of
New York gave a supper afterwards to Clementine de Vere
and her husband, Mr. Sapio (who must be a fine composer,
judging from the songs of his composition she sang), and to the
English lady, Mrs. Barclay. They all sit together at table.
Dr. Satterlee was talking with the Earl, and I noticed as he
looked down and listened, that there was quite a resemblance
to you. I have enjoyed the ship's company very much but
cannot feel as if I were on dry land. I have never seen so
many nice-looking people on a ship, so many big handsome men.

I wish every day you could be with me and cannot feel
reconciled. I am like another person and am so much stronger
and feel more lively and toned up mentally and physically.
I hope now, Mr. and Mrs. Bert Lippincott will be with us at
Leamington and Oxford.

Looking forward to letters,

Your loving, M. D. R.

183

^^:i«^?l^--'^' ■"^^^U;-:¥;

ENGLAND

Thursday, June 23rd, 1892.

Dear Papa:

I am writing this letter on the train from Chester to Leam-
ington. The fast express it is, and we are alone in a first class
compartment. We landed yesterday at Liverpool at one o'clock
^nd went through the customs all right under the direction of a
"Cook Tourist" man. Mother's trunk was found after some
hunting in the compartment. We had a very good lunch at
the Adelphi, where they know how to charge.

We took the four o'clock train to Chester, a distance of 16
miles, and engaged a carriage immediately and drove around the
town. Dined at the Grosvenor Arms. This morning drove out
to the Duke of Westminster's place. I could not describe it,
it would take too long; however we saw a flock of over 200 wild
deer. The deer park surrounds the house within a radius of
half a mile. The place is 12 miles long by 8 wide and con-
tains several villages. The deer are pretty tame, except when
they smell a gun.

We telegraphed for rooms at Leamington, as there is an
agricultural fair going on there. The weather to-day is cold.
Yesterday warm with showers in evening. Chester is a quaint
old place.

Yours, C.

ENGLAND

Grosvenor Hotel, Chester,

June 23rd, 1892.
Dear Frank:

Although dead tired I cannot resist giving you an account
of our first day on land. We didn't get to bed last night until
very late, as we had all our packing to do, having spent the
afternoon in admiring the Irish coast and the evening in seeing
the people oif at Queenstown. This morning we dressed up
and stored our steamer trunk with the Inman people, had our
breakfast and hung around until one o'clock before we got
oif on the tug. When we got into the Custom House my trunk
was not to be found among the R's, where it should have been,
but one of the Cook's men got it for me among the B's.

Then we took a cab with the English lady and drove to
Inman's office and changed our stateroom, as we found 154
a little too far forward, to a nice large one. We found we had
to fee every one on the ship and I have not yet put down our
expenses — they have been something fearful to-day. After
that we went with Mrs. Barclay to the Midland Railway and
left her and then to the Adelphi Hotel. We had the most de-
licious lunch, then took a cab and went to the Ferry and
across the Mersey to the Great Western and took a way train
here.

Cliff and I took a small carriage and drove all round the
walls and castle and cathedral. I have never seen anything so
interesting as the wonderful cathedral and the old Roman
walls. Caesar's Tower, King Edgar's palace and old houses
dating from 962, the river Dee outside the walls and the ivy
covered walls. We all had table d'hote dinner and then we
took a walk around the top of the walls.

I have written Mr. Gerrans that I expect to be in Oxford
over Sunday, as Mr. Wells requested, stopping here and hav-
ing one day longer on ship than I expected, will set me back
a little. When we come over again you must come here.
There is a howling mob outside over some political excite-
ment. Good-night and good-bye.

Your affectionate wife, M. D. R.

185

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Leamington, England
Friday, June 24th, 1892.

Dear Frank:

I have so much to tell my courage gives out at the begin-
ning. Outside there is a beautiful garden and I wish you were
here with us. I believe I wrote you up to the morning we went
to Eaton Hall, the Duke of Westminster's house. We had an
early breakfast, and while the carriages were being made
ready, we went over the the Chester Cathedral and saw the
interior. It was the most interesting I ever saw, the wonder-
ful wood carvings like lace and miniature cathedrals, which
hung as canopies over the chairs where the Monks used to sit,
were beyond description. It was impossible to realize that the
church had stood there over a thousand years. It would take
hours to describe all I saw, so I will not try.

We took a carriage with Mrs. Haines and her son and
daughter (she is Dr. Tom Wistar's sister), and drove out
to Eaton Hall which was a line place with magnificent gardens,
but I wasn't much impressed with the outward appearance of
the house. The best were the beautiful views of the Welsh
Mountains in the distance, and the perfect atmosphere and
lovely trees and flowers. I saw the daisies growing in the grass
wild, like our cultivated ones.

After a nice lunch at the hotel, we took the train and came
here at five o'clock yesterday.

Oxford, Sunday, June 26th, 1892.

Friday morning Cliff and I went by coach to Stratford.
The coach put up at the Red Horse and we did all the sights,
having from one to four o'clock to do them in. Stratford is
quite a city now, otherwise the sights are the same as when
I was here in 1870. The best part was the lovely drive.

We took the 9.57 train from Leamington Saturday morn-
ing and came here to the Randolph Hotel. I immediately sent
a note to Mr. Gerrans saying we would be in until after lunch,
and Mrs. Gerrans appeared at once, as they only live around

ENGLAND

the corner. They gave us some assistance as to sight seeing
during the afternoon and invited us to tea to-night, CHflf and
I took a carriage and went the rounds of the more important
colleges. They were so interesting, especially the gardens and
chapels, that I went far beyond my strength and to-day could
hardly crawl about.

At seven the Gerrans came and he is a very interesting,
jolly man, not seeming at all English. He seemed to be amused
with me, so we became good friends at once. She is a Canadian
but not so full of life as he is. They had asked some people
for tea to-night and then asked us to breakfast at half past
eight and we went afterwards to Magdalen college to hear the
service, but got there just too late, so I only saw the gardens,
and then we drove out to Iffley and saw the old mill and the
Norman Church, and a lovely English village.

I can't take time to describe the beauties of the colleges;
the fine carvings in wood and stone, the interesting portraits
and old bits of walls and gate ways and the magnificent parks
with deer, etc. We went to afternoon service at Christ Church
Cathedral and heard a most beautiful choir, and Dr. Lloyd
at the organ. Much to my surprise the service was very Low
Church and all the reading and chanting very distinct.

We then went to Gerrans' to tea and had a very nice meal of
cold lamb and veal pie, salads and preserves, etc., and met an
Oxford Professor of Roman law (a German) Prof. Griiber and
wife, a Professor Brown, of New York, who lectures on theol-
ogy, and a Mr. Elliott, who knew Mr. Wells when here. They
think I ought to stay longer, but I am anxious to get to London
to-morrow to get our first letters and find out what you are
all doing at home.

Mr. Gerrans is to take us to see his rooms at Worcester col-
lege, and we shall take the eleven o'clock train to London. My
feet are so swollen with fatigue that I shall need a day's rest.
Clifford is getting to understand the baggage business very well
and the money also. We walked home to-night after nine o'clock
in bright daylight, and it is not dark when I go to bed at ten.

187

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I would like to stay here a week, there is so much I must
leave undone. We have had such wonderful weather for Eng-
land, clear and delightfully cool. Yesterday it rained a few
drops, so I was surprised to find it clear this morning. This
hotel has an elevator and bath room, wonderful for England.
Tell Fanny she would revel in gooseberries here, as they serve
them as compote and tart, etc.

With my best love,

Your affectionate, M. D. R.

London, June 29, 1892.

Dear Frank:

We sent our cards to Mactears and they appeared at once,
but we were out, and Mr. M. came back for the third time at
seven last eve. We went to see Henry VHI at Irving's Theatre.

THE MARBLE ARCH, HYDE PARK, LONDON

It was magnificent, but so dear. Everything of that kind is
much dearer than in America. Mr. Mactear came and took
us out this morning, then we went to his house at noon, and
went with Mrs. M. and daughter to the Coaching Parade in
Hyde Park, but lots of people have gone away, and there
were very few distinguished people.

We went back and had a very elegant lunch beautifully
served, champagne and other wines, etc. Yesterday was so

ENGLAND

warm, and at the theatre really uncomfortable but to-day
is so cold I can't get warm. We went to the Army and Navy
stores yesterday morning and bought stockings and a small
trunk for me and a large Gladstone bag for Cliff to travel on
the continent, and took lunch there.

At half past six we are going to meet the Mactears to dine
at some club and go to Buffalo Bill's show. The David Bis-
phams have called to-day while we were out. To-morrow we
shall do two picture galleries and Cliff will go to the Tower
and I must get a waterproof.

London, Wednesday, June 29th, 1892.

Dear Papa:

We had a fine time at the show last night which was out
at a new exhibition grounds in Kensington. We dined at a
little private club there, of which Mr. Mactear is a member.
The whole grounds were brilliantly illuminated. Mr. Mactear
is very nice.

We found Richardson's grave in Westminster Abbey and
mother is having a photograph taken of it. The streets here
are all paved with wood and I think are very fine even if a
little slippery.

We are going to hear Mr. David Bispham sing in Siegfried
on July 5th and after that we will soon leave London.

London, Thursday morning, June 30th, 1892.

We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Mactear and daughter at a
private club house in a great garden where they have exhibi-
tions and where Buffalo Bill is now performing, and went to
the show afterwards. There was a cunning little club house
which was illuminated on the outside with little green glass
cups and all the gardens were illuminated the same way with
millions of lights all through the trees. I have never seen any
thing like it.

I said to Mr. M. that we hadn't heard from him and he
said he had been away ever since he returned from America

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and had waited to get the Mexican photographs to send you.
He certainly is most attentive and insists upon our lunching
with him at the Savoy to-day. They speak about dining there
informally and going to a Kiralfy show called Venice, after-
wards on Friday, but I don't feel very enthusiastic about it.

London is the most expensive place I ever saw. This is
only a medium class hotel, I consider, and yet we pay 6 shillings
(^1.50) for our dinner and pay extra for our dessert; and six
shillings for an omelette, coffee and bread for two. The noise
is almost unendurable and I think seriously to-day of changing
to the Metropole if we can get in. I tried to send a cablegram
yesterday and they refused to send any word not in the dic-
tionary, so all your inventions are for nothing. I shall be glad
to get away from London as it is too fatiguing for me.

To-day is beautiful and sunny and I hope to accomplish
a good deal in the way of sightseeing. Here people have their
houses just as in winter, all their draperies up and carpets
down and live as in winter. I expect to leave here on Thursday,
yth July; have taken tickets for Siegfried at Bayreuth.
Hoping there is nothing the matter.

Yours as ever, M. D. R.

Saturday, July 2, 1892.
To THE Assembled Family:

The Mactears have been very nice. We have been there
twice to dinner, once to lunch, twice out at hotels to lunch,
twice in the evenings to Buifalo Bill's Wild West, and Venice
by Kiralfy. A Mrs. Barclay on the ship gave us her Army and
Navy store ticket. We bought a good deal there.

Give my love to all. C.

London, Friday, July 2, 1892.
Dear Papa:

We have removed to the Metropole and find it much nicer
only the food is not quite so good. Mother went this morning

on a coach to Windsor. We went out to Hampton Court

190

ENGLAND

yesterday and, of course, struck the day the house was closed,
but walked around the grounds, which are very beautiful.
We went into the "maze" and got to the centre but could not
get out again.

We went to "Venice" last night. It is a production of
Imre Kiralfy's and is somewhat like the Fall of Babylon, etc.
There was an enormous aquarium in front of the stage on
which there were gondolas. There was nearly a whole square
of houses built on canals, also lots of bridges. For a sixpence
a gondola takes you all through the town in ten minutes. The
stores were filled with beautiful Venetian mosaics, etc., for
sale. I believe the show has been here all winter. We saw a
lot of Salviati's men making Venetian glass. One of them
made a big dragon vase in about ten minutes. It was in dif-
ferent colored glasses. There is some secret process and there
are only two manufactories in the world. They, of course,
have branches all over, but are under the control of two men.
Apprentices are taken who are sworn to secrecy.

J. C. R.

Hotel Metropole
London, July 3rd, 1892.
Dear Aunt Mary:

We moved here from a small hotel called the Brunswick,
in Jermyn St., on Friday, and at last I have a moment to write.
I went to the Foundling Hospital this morning alone, for when
I went to Clifford's room after ten o'clock, I couldn't get him
up, he was so tired, so I took a hansom and went alone. I
found it very interesting, but the music didn't come up to my
expectations. I saw the score of Handel's Messiah there, pre-
sented by the composer, and his statue stands on the street
wall.

We are going to leave London Thursday for the Isle of
Wight, after a ten days' stay here. The soot and cinders are
most disagreeable to me, and keep my throat in a constant state
of irritation, so I shall be glad to get away from the smoke.

191

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We have been extremely fortunate In having bright, sunny
weather all the time, sometimes very cold, or else very hot.
They have more sudden changes than we have. I understand
now why English women wear furs in summer.

Yesterday morning I had planned to go shopping in the
morning, and to St. Paul's in the afternoon, but after break-
fast I met Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Lippincott and they were just
about to get on the coach to go to Windsor, and I suddenly

WINDSOR CASTLE

determined to go if I could get a seat, and I was fort\mate
enough to get the best seat on the coach. I sat on the box
beside the driver, who was a gentleman, and we had a delight-
ful drive through Hampton Court and along the Thames.
I saw quantities of house boats; they are shaped like canal
boats, have awnings on top, and are regular floating flower
gardens, and the decks furnished like drawing rooms. We
had a delightful table d'hote lunch and then went up to the
castle.

I can't imagine anything finer; the view from the Terrace

192

ENGLAND

over Eton and the magnificent masonry, I shall never forget.
As Queen Victoria was in residence, we were only admitted to
St. George's chapel and the terrace. We bought strawberries
and roses on the way and really had an ideal time. You can
imagine I was pretty well tired out after a sixty mile drive.
We had four relays of horses.

No one could be more attentive than Mr. Mactear. I
have lunched there and at the Savoy with them and dined
there and at the Club, and went to Buffalo Bill's and to Venice
with them afterwards; and yesterday while I was at Windsor,
he went with Cliff to the Tower. Kiralfy's Venice is one of the
most wonderful of shows. It is on the order of the Fall of
Babylon, but under cover, and they have gondolas
and gondoliers from Venice. During and after the show
you go into a perfect imitation of Venice; real canals bordered
with brightly illuminated shops with Italian names, and cafes,
and groups of men singing Venetian songs, and gondolas
going and coming in every direction, and people crossing the
bridges. To add to the illusion we heard more Italian and
French than English; and we went into a shop and saw the
man manufacture the real Salviati glass, and it was a most
interesting sight though the heat was frightful.

I never saw such gardens and such stone carvings, or heard
such church music as at Oxford, and shall never forget them.
I am going with Mrs. David Bispham to the German Opera
at Drury Lane Wednesday night. We went to Hampton
Court Friday afternoon and returned just in time to dine with
Mactears and go to Venice that evening, so you can imagine
me pretty tired to-day after two days of solid work.

I have had to wear my fawn colored Guerin dress every-
where because we always go somewhere after dinner, but hope
to wear my dinner dress to the opera. We went to Henry the
VIII with Irving and Terry and found it wonderfully fine.
I am really too busy to indulge in homesickness. I am try-
ing to remember everything I see and talk about it when I
get home. Aifiy. M. D. R.

13 193

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

London, Jul>' 5th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

I was glad to get your letter late last night. Air. Mactear
was saying you ought to have a little place where you could
set up for yourself as an expert and make a name for \ ourself.
He seems to have a high opinion of your abilities as a chemist.

I found silver quite as dear as at home and did not see
anvthing astonishing, was disappointed with Liberty's dis-

HEXLEY REGATTA

play and at the great china shop where all the Royalties deal

I found very elegant sets but nothing buyable. We loitered

along and looked at shop windows, and finally went to Christy's,

the auction place, and saw treasures of Limoges enamel and

carved ivory, miniatures, etc. and it breaks my heart not to

avail myself of such a chance, but I find the things I marked

will not be sold until after Thursday, and we must get away

from here.

How I wish you were here and what a good time we could

194

ENGLAND

have together! Mrs. Barclay kindly asked us to go to the
Henley regatta. I couldn't go on account of having accepted
for the Opera, but Clifford is going with her. To-day we are
going to the Bank to draw enough money to take us to St.
Malo. I find the newest and best route to Guernsey is from
Weymouth, only four and a half hours, but the difficulty is
to get to Weymouth from Southampton.

It has turned very much colder over night and looks a
little threatening for the Regatta. I saw no trace of any Fourth
of July celebration, but it happened to be election day here
and throngs were screaming in the streets last night. I must
try to at least walk through the South Kensington Museum
to-day.

Do you ever go to the Yacht Club.^ The great Eton and
Harrow cricket match comes off at Lords Friday and Saturday
and there we should see all the swells, but I don't feel inclined
to wait for it somehow. Aff., M. D. R.

Dear Mr. Rosengarten:

I return herewith your father's photograph. He looks
quite provokingly young, just as ever he did, as if the twenty-
three years which have passed since last I saw him, at Tubingen
had left no mark whatever on him; well I spitefully hope that
he may at least have a few grey hairs on his head.

I was so sorry to have missed your mother; please remember
me to her, and I hope, if time permits, that I may see you both
on your return.

Faithfully yours,
1 2th July, '92. Rudolph Messel.

Note.— Alessel was a chemical student at Tubingen when I studied
there under Professor Adolph Strecker in 1869-70. F. H. R.

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS

Isle of Jersey, July 12th, 1892.
Dear Papa:

Poor mother was very sick coming across the channel,
while I was not. We were in separate cabins so I could do
nothing for her. We drove all over the Isle of Wight in a coach.

MONT ORGUEIL. CASTLE GOREY, JERSEY

The towns are just like Newport, hilly, with well paved, mac-
adamized streets and small asphalt pavements. The houses
have small gardens in front and the streets are the same width.
We expect to get to St. Malo in a couple of days. Mother

will be glad to get off the ocean. Love to all, C.

196

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS

July 14th, 1892.

Isle of Jersey.
Dear Grandpa:

To-day they celebrate in France the taking of the Bastille.
We took a long coaching trip here to-day with an excursion.
There were some sixty people. We saw some fine caves, one
of which was four miles long. I don't know whether the pic-
ture of "Jedge" Richardson in Westminster has turned up
yet or not. I have seen some splendid cows here and at Guern-
sey and still they have bad butter.

We will get to St. Malo to-morrow and then on to Mont
St. Michel where, according to a novel mother has read they
have good omelettes. They have some fine conger fishing
here and I have seen some very big ones. The scenery in all
these islands resembles that of Newport and Jamestown. The

SEIGNEURIE LANE, GUERNSEY

same granite coast and hills rising above them covered with
grass and blackberry bushes. I hope Aunt Laura is all right
now.

Love to all, Cliff.

197

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

St. Heliers,

Isle of Jersey, July 14, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We left Shanklin, Isle of Wight, in a coach with our baggage
behind us, Monday morning and had the most exquisite drive,
taking our lunch at Black Gang Chine and passing through
Bonchurch and Ventnor, and then Carisbrook, where there is
a magnificent old castle, one of the finest specimens in exist-

CORBIERE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY

ence. There w^as a stronghold there in the Saxon time before
the Roman occupation, and a castle ever since. There the
coach dropped us and we took an omnibus for Newport, a
mile distant, and ten minutes by train brought us to Cowes,
connecting with steamer for Southampton, where we arrived
in time for a late supper.

We went immediately to the boat for this place and were
just in time to get the last berth in the ladies' cabin for me and
the last in the other for CliflF. We each took a dose of bromide,

hoping to avoid sickness. The ships are new and very well

198

THE CHANNEL ISLANDS

furnished with electric Hght. They wanted £2 extra for a
private cabin, so I went in with the polloi. I went sound
asleep at ten o'clock but the people coming in at midnight
woke me up and the boat started and I didn't get asleep until
after I had been terribly seasick and was exhausted.

We arrived at Guernsey at six and walked up to the old
Government House Hotel w^hich has a beautiful garden and
view over the bay. I was so perfectly "worn out I w^ent to bed
until lunch; then in the afternoon we took a carriage and drove

CREUX HARBOR, SARK

to Mctor Hugo's house and were admitted to all the rooms,
altho his grandchildren had just come for the summer.

Then we went to one of the bays. The grand rocky coast
is wonderfully fine and the country roads so picturesque with
high hedges. We had a good night's rest which we sadly needed
and took the steamer to Sark yesterday for the day.

I haven't time to describe the wonderful feats of walking
and climbing into caves, the terrible chasms, the ideal
loveliness of Sark and the primitiveness and loneliness. I
would like to go there sometime to stay. We had to get up
very early to take the same Southampton boat and arrived

199

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

here at eight o'clock, took a coach at eleven and have been
driving until five this P. M.

To-morrow morning we go on to St. Malo and will cable.
We have not yet heard of the arrival of our Queenstown letters
but hope to get a large mail to-morrow at St. Malo. These
Islands are crowded with travellers and boats also. I expected
to find them much less populated.

Love to all,
Yours aflP., M. D. R.

FRANCE

Dinard, July i6, 1892.
Dear Papa:

We are staying at the Hotel de Casino at Dinard. I get
along well in my French and can understand all that is said
to me and make everyone understand me, St. Malo is an
ugly little walled town where the tide rises and falls eighteen
feet and in the early spring, forty feet. I received a letter
from Dr. Messel returning the photo of you I had sent him.
I enclose the note. It was the amateur picture taken at
Island Heights.

Most of the people in the hotel are English and Americans.
The hotel is right on the water front of a fine beach and the
Casino faces us. Mother left her keys in the custom house
when our baggage was examined and I had to go all the way
back to St. Malo for them. I jabbered French, however, and
got them all back. Mother is down at the Casino taking a
warm bath. They have the funniest banks over here I ever
saw. Everyone was away for dinner when we arrived, and
we had to go and hunt them up.

I saw a peasant woman making lace and it was very in-
teresting. The St. Johns fire must have been an awful thing.
We heard a good deal about it in England.

Love to all.

Cliff, not Cliffy.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Mont St. Michel, France,

July 17th, 1892.
Dear Papa:

We arrived here this morning and had lunch. We are
staying at Madame Poulard's, which is described in "Three
Normandy Inns" which Uncle Joe lent mother. We had some
splendid omelette and roast chicken. Mont St. Michel is a
high rock surrounded entirely with flat sand. The tide comes
in in a couple of minutes over the miles of sand. It is just
like a great flat plain. Mother sends her love.

Mont St. Michel, July 17th, 1892.
Dear Laura:

I wrote Thursday night to Frank, describing everything
up to that date. We had a perfectly smooth ride of three
hours to St, Malo. Our first day on French soil was a picnic.
I wished to spend only a few hours at St. Malo seeing the town,
and to go to spend the night at Dinard, a French watering
place across the bay. The tides are so peculiar that you take
the boat one hour at one place and another hour miles away.
So after going through the Custom House when I forgot my
keys, we had to drive all the way to St. Servant and sent all
the luggage over to Dinard without any receipt or anything
to show for it, and as soon as I had done it I was scared stiff.

We then went to the bankers, got our first mail acknowl-
edging the first mail from Queenstown, and some money.
We took our lunch at a hotel and drove around the city, which
is a very interesting old walled city. Then we went to the
boat and arrived at Dinard in the middle of the afternoon.
Found Dinard a beautiful place with a casino and our hotel
close by it.

Dinard is a most picturesque place with pretty villas and
gardens upon high rocks. The tide rises so high that the whole
aspect of the place is entirely different at high and low tide.
We started off this Sunday morning and took the boat on the

FRANCE

river Ranee for Dinan, a beautiful river with high banks and
castles perched up on top. The common women wear the
Breton caps, but generally black dresses with shawls on their
shoulders.

It is provoking to only be able to stay a day in a place
where I would like to stay a week. At Dinan there are so
many interesting castles we had to renounce seeing. We took
our baggage to the railroad station and had a good lunch at a
hotel where a woman waited on us with a real Breton cap.
We went to the old Chateau and Cathedral and drove through
the streets and saw the old houses and the peasants coming
from church. Then we took a train intending to spend the
night at Dol and go on to-morrow to Mont St. Michel. We
changed from two hotels to a third one beside the railway
station as we were afraid to spend the night in them, they were
so frightfully dirty. I will have to leave details until I get
home.

Trouville, July 20th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We left Dinard Sunday morning, going up the Ranee by
boat as I wrote Laura, and spent the day at Dinan and the
night at Dol, and went to St. Michel Monday morning. All
the time we had perfect weather. From the moment we sighted
the "Merveille" St. Michel I have been in a stupor of delight.
I expected a great deal, having read such enthusiastic de-
scriptions but nothing can equal the reality, and it is rightly
named the wonder of the world.

We were taken from Pontorson in a big sort of omnibus
and stopped dead against the town wall with no gate in sight.
Then we got out and went round to another side where there
was a gate. From that a narrow street without sidewalks and
a gutter in the middle, led up through the little town there is.
At the left, quite near the gate, was the Hotel of Poulard Aine,
where we were to put up. At the door was Madame, just as
handsome as the book (Three Normandy Inns) describes her,
and she ushered us into a great kitchen with a hoveled iire-

203

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

place — immense — but only a small wood fire. On a spit in
front of the fire at least a dozen chickens were turning slowly
and roasting, preparing for the eleven o'clock dinner. Crowds
of people were coming in, starved, and we concluded to stay
there until after breakfast, as we had to mount 200 steps to
our rooms in a separate house. So I sat myself down by the
fire, which was not too warm (July i8th) and watched Madame
Poulard make her celebrated omelettes.

There are three dining rooms on three separate floors, one
opposite the kitchen, an open room, and one on the first floor

T SAIXT .MICHEL

over the kitchen, and the other above that. I never had a

more delicious meal. First, the perfect omelette, then fish

cooked to perfection, then chickens so juicy and tender, and

large cherries for dessert. The table seated forty people and

there were two sets, eleven and twelve o'clock.

To go to our rooms we crossed the street, went up on the

town wall, crossed back over the street by a bridge and went

up a circular flight of stone steps to our rooms. The house

consisted of four stories of tiny single rooms; the lower floor

opened on a terrace with wall and a row of dwarf plantain

trees, trimmed very low and making a perfect shade, and tables

204

FRANCE

and chairs there. Our rooms were on the second floor and had
a porch.

I had scarcely made myself comfortable when I heard the
voices of Mrs. Denckla and the others, and was glad enough
to see them, and we all started off together to see the Abbeys,
etc., etc. It took us three hours steady climbing and walking,

L'ESCALIER DE DENTELLES, MONT ST. MICHEL

and it was well worth it. There was an elderly priest with a
fine face in our party, whose picture I should like to have had
taken in the cloisters. He sighed frequently as we went
through the magnificent halls, and said how hard it was to
see such a place idle, doing no good.

There are many parts being restored now by the govern-
ment. The beauty of the "escalier de dentelle" and the flying

205

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

buttresses which support It, are beyond my powers of descrip-
tion also the effect of the shadows of the clouds on the wet
sand when the tide was out. The feeling of immense height
when looking over from the stairways and open stone railings
of some of the galleries was almost frightful. You must cer-
tainly come to see it sometime.

After dinner we all went up the little street which leads
from the gate, to find the house of Bertrand du Guesclin. It
is the only real house in the place. The others were mere holes,
without windows except in the street, the real, unchanged
Medieval homes of the people; the animals and people all
huddled together, with the tools of trade. Then the fisher-
men with blue berets on their heads and knitted jackets and
short trousers, and bare legs and feet, with bags thrown over
their shoulders, while very dirty, were most picturesque.

We wandered round the ramparts and couldn't tear our-
selves away, except we were nearly killed with fatigue. I de-
cided to give up the small towns of Avranches and Coutances
as there is very little that cannot be seen from outside, and
to go on to Trouville and return to Caen. I was glad I had done
so, for in passing through those towns we saw all there was to
be seen, but we had scarcely arrived here last night when there
came up a furious storm, with about the worst wind I have
ever known, and the noise of the surf was terrible all night.
This is a beautiful place and I am sorry to have lost, through
the storm, the opportunity of seeing the bathing.

We go in an hour to Dives to see the celebrated Inn of Wil-
liam the Conqueror, and on to Caen early to-morrow. We have
walked all around the beach and through the town of Trou-
ville and had to hold our hats as it is the worst wind I have
ever been out in. The beach has a wooden walk on the level,
hotels are a little higher, built around three sides of beautiful
gardens. The villas rise behind on a hill. The streets are full
of beautiful shops with lovely jewelry, brocades and silver,
fruit and confections.

206

FRANCE

I wish I felt able to write to everyone, but it takes really
all my. time to write these descriptions of what I am seeing,
travelling so fast as we do.

With much love to all and for yourself,

Yours aif., M. D. R.

A month gone already and soon it will be time to go home!

Trouville, July 20th, 1892.
Dear Papa:

We are here in the middle of an enormous windstorm and
so, of course, see none of the society life on the beach. We

TROUVILLE

arrived here last night after travelling all day in the train.
The church at Mont St. Michel is very interesting. We saw
all the dungeons and secret torture chambers. We missed
seeing the tide come in at the Mont, but Madame Poulard
told us the tides were very low just now.

Love to all,

207

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Caen, July 22nd, 1892.
Dear Uncle Joe:

We are now in Caen, an interesting old town with a lot of
cathedrals. They are nearly all Romanesque in style except
one, which is in the flamboyant Gothic. The carving in the
latter is very fine. On the sides of the naves are the flying
buttresses, which are also beautifully decorated. The in-
teriors are quite plain, as the people as a rule are poor, and
cannot replace the tawdry ornaments which do not wear like
the stone itself. The old houses here are somewhat like the
American or English Queen Anne style. The front overhangs
and each story projects a little more than the other. They
are composed of wooden beams, which are generally carved,
filled in between with stone, brick, or plaster.

All the wood one sees here is oak, black and worm eaten.

The Breton peasants are a great disappointment to me, for
although they still wear the accustomed headgear, they do
not wear the costume or the sabots and they talk real French.
The cooking has been good nearly everywhere, but the cus-
toms of serving are not much different.

Love to all,

Clifford.

Tours, July 24th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

I wrote you about the storm at Trouville, which was at
night. We came back to Dives that evening in order to spend
the night at the Inn called Guillaume le Conquerant. It was
just as curious and interesting as I expected. It was built
around a court and was full of delightful things, and there
were two perfectly beautiful rooms with magnificent carved
high dados and tapestry above and wonderful cabinets and
bric-a-brac. They were where Madame de Sevigne had spent
the evening with the Duchess de something. The bed rooms
all opened off very low galleries which went all around the

court on the second floor. I had Madame de Sevigne's room

208

FRANCE

and couldn't sleep; I was so afraid the canopy of magnificent,
but very old brocade would fall on me.

The rest of the Inn looked very old and poor, and I cannot
take time to tell you of the all curious things there now. We
took an early morning train to Caen and spent the afternoon
seeing the town, the Abbaye aux Hommes and Abbaye aux
Femmes, founded by William the Conqueror and his wife,
Mathilde. Caen Is very old and interesting; the streets very

THE INN OF GUILLAUME LE CONQUERANT. DIVES

narrow and full of life. Our hotel, the Grande Bretagne, was
terribly old, but had an excellent cuisine.

The second day, Friday, we went out to Bayeux to see the
famous tapestry, and spent three hours, saw a very fine cathe-
dral, etc., and on Saturday came directly here to Tours, start-
ing at 9.30 and arriving at 8. We had to spend two hours at
LeMans and went all over the town, the Cathedral very fine
and the house where Queen Berengaria lived after the death
of Richard Coeur de Lion. We were scarcely tired when we
got here as the trains go slowly and there Is almost no motion,

but we were hungry and got a good dinner.
14 209

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I found on inquiry that we could see both Chenonceaux
and Amboise in one day. We met the Emersons from Boston
and spent the whole day with them.

We drove from Chenonceaux in carriages to Amboise after
lunching at the "Bon Laboureur" where we had fresh wild
strawberries and large red and white raspberries, and sucre
d'orge.

Amboise is the property of the Comte de Paris and he is

CHATEAU DE CHENONCEAUX

restoring it to the state it was in in the Fifteenth Century.
A great part of it is uninhabitable at present. The Chapel of
St. Hubert is perfectly beautiful. We went down into the
town and out of the chateau by an enormous tower, not by
a staircase, but by an inclined plane which was used by eques-
trians and up which Charles V w^as conducted by Henry H
when he came to visit him, by torchlight. An iron-railed gallery
out of one of the rooms is where Francis H and Mary Stuart,
Catherine de Medici and her two sons witnessed the massacre
of the Huguenots in the streets far below. Leonardo da Vinci
also died and was buried there at that castle.

FRANCE

I hope to see two more castles to-morrow. Although it
Is Sunday night, the band is playing the Marseillaise and I can
see some fountains from my windows on the Boulevard. It was
quite a coincidence, our meeting the Emersons. Just as we
were leaving Mont St. Michel last Tuesday morning, Madame

CHATEAU D'AMBOISE

Poulard asked us to write our names in her book. There we
saw the following verse signed with three Emerson names
from Boston:

"Joan of Arc at point of lance,
Drove the English out of France;
But Madame Poulard better yet,
Brings them back with an omelette.

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We thought it very clever and all learned it by heart, so when
I found these people were named Emerson, it flashed upon me
who they were, and I repeated the verse much to their sur-
prise and Mr. E. asked where I found the verse. They will
spend the night of September 27th at the Adelphi, as we ex-
pect to do, but sail by another line. Cliff and I have made up
our minds that you must come over, if only for two or three
weeks and take us home

With much love from both of us, Yours aff., M. D. R.

P. S. — We have struck our first warm weather. As usual, the
sun shines brightly. I don't know what we should think if
we should find it raining some day. There is so much cool
breeze that the heat is perfectly bearable and not at all op-
pressive, and the nights are very cool. They can beat us all
to pieces with climate.

Tours, Monday, July 25, 1892.
Dear Papa:

The scenery in this part of France is much more interest-
ing than in Normandy. Besides being hilly and rough, it is
wilder. We went to see the Chateau of the Comte de Paris
yesterday. The chateau at Chenonceaux is much more in-
teresting and is built on a stone bridge across the river Cher.

Love to all. C.

Tuesday, July 26th, 1892.
Tours.
Dear Papa:

France is a queer place in the evening. All is gayety and
life, the streets are full of people and so are the cafes, and yet
with all the sins and vices here, drunkenness is not included.
We drove all around the town this morning.

The weather here to-day has been quite warm. We go to
Blois this evening and if it has not cooled off it will be nasty
travelling. The poor soldiers have a hard time here, especially
the recruits, who have to make long marches every day to
learn to keep step. Love to all, C.

FRANCE

Grand Hotel de Blois,

Blois, July 27th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We came here late yesterday evening to avoid the heat,
and went this morning to see the Chateau of Blois, quite nearby
and very beautiful and interesting historically; and drove to
Chambord this afternoon. It was a long, dusty drive, but
fortunately for us the sun stayed under a cloud.

The Emersons concluded to give it up and I did not feel
repaid though I am glad to have seen it. The weather is very
warm and I begin to feel that we have done enough rapid
travelling, and will get to Hombourg as soon as possible,
and rest.

I had written to the Rochambeaus in French that I expected
to pass through Vendome and would stop off to call on them.
When we returned from Chambord we found a telegram from
the Marquis telling me to get my tickets for a certain station
and he would meet me there, so we all start to-morrow at 8.40
and if they don't insist upon our staying over night, I shall
go on to Chartres for the night and be in Paris the next day.
I am in my usual condition of shabby clothes and shall have
to buy a dress in Paris to present a respectable appearance at
Hombourg.

I never saw such a table as they have at this hotel; one

is just stuffed. They had delicious melon after the soup; then

pates of sweetbread, then salmon, then filet with tomatoes,

then duck, then artichokes, then string beans, then chicken

and salad, then pudding, then most delicious small eclairs

served in little papers like Marrons glaces, then large dishes

of peaches, grapes, nectarines, strawberries and raspberries,

cherries, white and red vin ordinaire.

I hope we shall find plenty of letters at Paris to find out

how you all are and what you are doing. Will write you all

about our visit.

With love to all.

Yours aff., M. D. R.
213

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Grand Hotel de Blois,

Blois 27th July, 1892.
Dear Laura:

We have been travelling so rapidly and so hard that I
could not write oftener. It has been very hard work seeing
these chateaux along the Loire. We found hot weather when
we got to Tours. We went in an hour and a half in a train to
Chenonceaux, had our lunch, saw the castle, then drove eight
miles across country to Amboise and back to Tours by rail-
road.

The third day I gave up Loches and Chinon and saw the
city of Tours, and took a train at seven p. m. and got here at
nine. We have been doing all the castles with the Emersons,
of Boston. They know all the people we know of Boston, and
are clever and related to Ralph Waldo.

The Rochambeaus have telegraphed me to stop at a small
station near Vendome and they will meet me, so we are off
to-morrow morning having seen the two chateaux of Blois
and Chambord. I feel now that w^e must get somewhere to
rest, that we have done enough rapid travelling.

I am trying to write in this salon de lecture but the pen
is too bad and I shall have to retire to my room. I am
so stupefied with good things and wish I could get the
cook of this Hotel to take home with me. Unfortunately
this warm weather takes away one's appetite. I think
we have been so fortunate, in the first place to have had
such delightful cool and even cold weather for our hard travel-
ling, and never have had one day of rain. It rained hard
when I was in the South Kensington Museum and that
is all. It is thundering now^ at nine p. m. and I hope it
w411 rain and cool the air.

I dread two days in Paris with cholera there, but I have
to get a new dress to make a respectable appearance in Hom-
bourg and get my brown jacket fixed up. I have felt per-
fectly well and energetic all the time because the weather has

been so favorable. Aiost of my days are as much labor as

214

FRANCE

going to New York for the day from Philadelphia, but I shall
do nothing at Hombourg. Hot weather takes all the ambition
right out of me and makes me long for a bath tub, .

Paris, July 29th, 1892.

Yesterday morning I had thought of going to church, when
it was suggested it might be a little risky on account of cholera,
so I rested and stayed in all morning. Then at five, Cliflf and
I went up the Eiffel Tower. It is amusing how we always
strike cheap days without knowing it. It only cost the two of
us four fares to go up and down, and we dined on the pre-
mier etage. It was a wonderful sight, and the surroundings
of the Tour, the Trocadero and Champ de Mars, and the build-
ings left from the exhibition are wonderfully beautiful.

We came back on one of the Seine boats from the Tour
Eiffel to the Place de la Concorde, just to try them. They
■go wonderfully fast, and although it is out of season, and every-
body supposed to be away, both boats and omnibuses are cram
full all the time.

It was delightfully comfortable on the Tower, but the crowd
in the elevators was frightful. I cannot get away from here
before Wednesday morning, August 3rd, and we expect to go
straight to Strasbourg and Frankfort to let Clifford do the
Rhine while I am at Hombourg, as I don't want to take the
time for it. It has been very hot but is raining now and I hope
will be cooler. I do wish you could be here with us.

With love to all,

Aff., M. D. R.

Normandy Hotel,
Paris, July 29th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

Here we are in Paris suffering with the heat. I am ob-
liged to stay here two or three days to get a dress. We went
to the Rochambeau's yesterday morning from Blois. The
Marquis met us at the station and took us in a Victoria to

215

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

his chateau. It looked exactly as I expected a French chateau
to look. The river Loir passes in front of it, and the strip of
land between it and the house has a hedge of roses. The
house was long, the way of the River, and shallow, only one
room deep. We were conducted through three or four salons
beautifully furnished with real old Louis XV furniture, and
then I was taken upstairs to Mme. de Rochambeau's room.
She has been very ill so she can't walk. No one could have
been more cordial. She kissed me on both cheeks and held

MARQUIS DE ROCHAMBEAU

my hand and made the biggest fuss over me. They then
brought in the whole family. The oldest son with his wife and
baby*; the next son who is in some office in Paris and has had
the grippe and been at home convalescing, and then the young
boy who was born after they returned from America. The
doctor came and we all went downstairs, and I was shown the
family portraits and miniatures. Both their ancestors were
Marechals de France; they have full length portraits of them
and beautiful portraits of women; the Marechal's sword and
orders and the robe of the Saint Esprit (Santo Spirito).

When lunch was served, I found a crowd of company, the

*The " babies " grown to manhood were killed in battle in 1916 in France!

216

FRANCE

doctor with his wife and baby, three Abbes, a Count some-
body, who has married an American wife and who was a per-
fectly charming man. I was the guest of honor and taken in
on the Marquis' arm. They had a nice lunch of several courses,
three or four kinds of wine and champagne. Two men in
livery; you would have laughed to see how perfectly at my
ease I was. I talked as much as anyone and even made jokes.
After lunch we found Madame had been brought down
into the salon the first time. She was so very enthusiastic
over me I couldn't help being flattered and she raved over

CHATEAU DE ROCHAMBEAU, VENDOME

America. I told them they must certainly come over next
year and we would do all we could for her. The second son
had to come to Paris in the afternoon, so we travelled together
as far as Voves. We went in a private omnibus, with our bag-
gage on top, to Vendome, and the Marquis took me through
the cathedral and showed me all the sights. They have be-
hind their house a hill which is riddled with caves, former
dwellings of a race called the "cave dwellers." They have
been like that 3000 years! We noticed all through the Tour-
aine from Tours all along the Loire, the hills pierced with holes.
They make use of them now to store things and as stables,
and even as dwellings. Mme. has built a handsome chapel

and they have Mass twice a week.

217

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

218

FRANCE

They had so much to say about Joe and Fanny and praised
them to the skies, and hoped they would certainly see them
over here and sent all sorts of messages to them. They also
sent their greetings to Mr. and Mrs. Childs and spoke of the
Drexels. The whole family saw us off and the Marquis all
the way to Vendome and put us in the train. The son was
very nice in the train. They all raved over Laura's picture,
which I happened to have with me.

They all said it was all bosh about cholera in Paris, and
we find it full of Americans. We spent last night in Chartres

THE CHAMBER AND DEATHBED OF COUNT ROCHAMBEAU

The embroidery on bed and chairs was worked by the Countess during her husband's campaign in the

United States. The portrait presented by General Washington.

and went early this morning to see the cathedral, which is
wonderful, and took the express here, arriving at one.

If I happen to get sick, or to feel that I need a day's rest
I am going to take it, and not feel that sick or well I must be
at any place on the minute.

George B. Roberts is here with his wife and oldest child
and says he would like to stay here in all this heat. They only
arrived yesterday. I have not yet got my tickets for Bay-
reuth. The man in Dresden wrote July 3rd I could have
tickets for July 28th. Good-bye, with love.

Yours affly., M. D. R.

GERMANY

Royal Victoria Hotel,

Hombourg, August 6, 1892.
Dear Aunt Mary:

While I am waiting here to see if I can get rooms, I will
write a few lines. We arrived here last night after leaving
Paris the morning of the day before, spent the night at Stras-
bourg and stayed until noon looking at the town. The cathe-
dral was a dream of beauty and the town full of quaint and
interesting houses.

My first uncomfortable train ride since I came over was
yesterday coming from Strasbourg to Frankfort. There was so
much motion and the men smoked everywhere. They had
no rooms for us here and sent us to another place where we
had a good dinner, but I didn't like the rooms. It was directly
in front of the Kursaalhaus, and up the street from this hotel.
After dinner we went into the Kurgarten, which was brilliant
with electric lights and lanterns and a fine military band was
giving a concert, and it was full moonlight, but I was too tired
and cold to stay long.

This is the sort of place where you want fine clothes, and I

have mighty little. My black grenadine and Egan black silk

are already very shabby; my fawn colored woolen and velvet

dirty and discolored. I went to Doucet in Paris and got an

India silk, black ground, with dull pale blue narrow stripes

and pin dots between, trimmed with handsome black lace in

220

GERMANY

some parts over blue, so I have that to dress up in; but I went
to a cheap dressmaker and had a dark blue crepon made up
with a little black satin ribbon and some black guipure, and
I don't like it. I am done with cheap dressmakers, only I
wear out my clothes so dreadfully, I need so many. My Egan
black silk is the only dress I have a decent figure in.

I have my tickets for the Parsifal at Bayreuth for the 2ist,
which gives me only two weeks here, but I cannot help it.

HOMBOURG

I find everything so dear. I had to pay ^iio in Paris for an
India silk, and everything in proportion. The only cheap
things are some gloves and stockings. I preferred the Bon
Marche to the Louvre in almost everything, but one day found
the same stockings at the Louvre for 9 frcs. 50 I had paid 12
frcs. 50 Bon Marche and 14 shillings in London at Army and
Navy stores.

With love for all.

Yours aff., M .D. R.

221

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Royal Victoria Hotel,

Hombourg, Aug. 9th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

I have just got }'our two letters dated July 29th enclosing
one to you from Laura and acknowledging a cablegram from
Paris. We arrived here Friday night and finally settled here
Saturday noon and will leave for Bayreuth just two weeks
from that day and spend Sunday, the 21st there, and then on
to San Moritz. We have two nice rooms, one facing the hotel
garden and the other another garden, so we have a fine draught
of air and are comfortable. I went at once to see the doctor
but he said that two wrecks were a very short time to do much
good. I did not care to make the trip to Bayreuth and return
here, it is too far away.

Most of the w^omen have large bunches of flowers and it
looks very pretty on a sunny day. It rained here this morn-
ing, and has been very warm, but cool at night. W^e all went
in to the hop last night to look on. The Prince of Wales* is
expected on Sunday, I believe, and as he dines on the Kursaal
Terrace every night, we shall probably see him. They say
the ex-Empress Frederick goes to the Springs every day, but
I have not seen her.

I have taken the water now three days. My rules are to
be at the spring about eight. It takes me from fifteen to
twenty minutes to get there; then I drink one glass and walk
fifteen minutes; then another and back to breakfast a half
hour later. Then at four in the afternoon the same thing. I
have been feeling perfectly strong and well, but since I have
been taking this water, I can hardly get back to the hotel, I
feel so dead tired. '

They say Mark Twain and Oscar Wilde are here, and
in our hotel there is the Duchess of Bedford and she is
a sight.

Most of the people we know are gone to Switzerland. We
are going to Frankfort some day to spend the day. I would

* Afterward King Edward.

GERMANY

like Clifford to go to Wiesbaden and as far as Coblentz and
back again, if possible, while we are here, but have made no
plans as yet. We leave here on Saturday noon of the 20th
and arrive at Bayreuth at midnight. I prefer this to getting up
at four in the morning. I had no idea it was so long a trip;
thought it took about five hours. It is less than 200 miles,
so you see how they travel here.

I go to bed hungry every night because I am not allowed
fruit or salad and sweet things, and I don't get enough to eat
to go to sleep on; but I guess I can stand it for two weeks.
This climate is a good deal like Newport. I long for the moun-
tains and Switzerland.

I never go over the same ground twice, to avoid expense and
to see more. I am glad we stopped at Strasbourg as it was so
interesting.

With love to all, and wishing you could be here with us
and enjoying things as I do.

Yours aff., M D. R.

Hombourg, Aug. 14, 1892.
Dear Frank:

Two letters from you yesterday dated July 29th and Au-
gust 1st, so you see they came together, although written three
days apart. Clifford went yesterday to Coblentz, taking the
Rhine steamer at Bieberich, and was going to Wiesbaden by
train to-day to see your relative, Mr. Rosengarten, the archi-
tect, and will perhaps be home to-night. I will take my dinner
at the Kursaal with the Warrens to-night. I went to church
with him at the castle where the Empress Frederick lives.
She and her daughter were present in a sort of gallery, up
above the pulpit. Calvary church is a palace compared with
it and every other detail in the same proportion.

We are going to-morrow to Frankfort to see the Roths-
child's collection. I shall not have time to look up people as
I shall only be there a few hours.

223

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Hombourg, August 17th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We have been scorched here for three or four days, and
I find it hard to get down in the morning to the springs and
then at eleven for my bath and late in the afternoon again to
drink. In the evenings there is nothing to do after dinner
but go up to the Kursaal and see the crowd. Sometimes we
dine there. The Duke of Cambridge, cousin to Queen Vic-
toria, sat near us, dines here every day, and all the swells dine
at that time. We leave here Saturday at noon, take the 1.30
train for Frankfort and arrive at Nuremberg, seven something,
and get to Bayreuth before eleven.

Monday we will go back to Nuremberg and from there to
Innsbruck and Landeck, and drive from there to St. Moritz,
where I long to be, for they say it is always cool there, being
so high.

Aflt., M. D. R.

Hombourg, Friday, August 19, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We leave here to-morrow noon, and arrive at Bayreuth
eleven at night. We have had most terrible heat here for
over a week, and I have suffered as much as I ever did in my
life. Yesterday I was out in the sun too much and am pay-
ing up for it by a severe congestion to-day. This morning
I tried to take my bath after drinking the water before
breakfast so as to avoid an extra trip to the springs. It
has been too hot for me to think of going to Frankfort, or
for Clifford either.

We are going this afternoon to see a Roman camp at Saal-
berg, which they say is one of the finest and best preserved
camps in Europe. Yesterday there was a battle of flowers,
but it was not a success. If it had not been for my cure here,
I would have gone away from here to some cool place. Yes-
terday was the hottest day ever known in Frankfort, but we

hope it will be better to-morrow. I think that if it is pleasant

224

GERMANY

at San Moritz we had better stay there three or four days to
recover from this heat. We drive in from Landeek and drive
out to Chiavenna, and we will telegraph wheii we arrive at
San Moritz, so you can find us for a day or tw,o. From there
I have no particular plans, except that it would be very con-
venient to go to the Italian Lakes, unless it should be fright-
fully hot. We want to get over the San Gothard pass and will
travel about through Switzerland, and try to get back to Paris
by the tenth of September. If the cholera is raging there, we
shall only pass through and get to London.

We cut ourselves off from mail now until we arrive at San
Moritz. I dread to-morrow's journey on account of heat and
motion, and grudge the money they make us pay for the bag-
gage that costs us nothing in France. They make us pay eight
marks a day's trip.

Love to all,

Mary D.

5 P. M. Nuremberg,
August 22nd, 1892.
Dear F:

We are oif in an hour by fast train to Munich, there to
spend the night and go in the morning to Innsbruck. It is too
hot to stay in Munich, and as the heat has upset both Cliflford
and myself, we think it wiser to avoid cities and get to the
mountains as soon as possible and into high countries. I can-
not bear the heat any longer. We have had now ten days of
it, and I am in a perspiration all the time.

By taking this evening train, we get there at 10.30 and
avoid the sun. Our faces are now turned toward home. The
smells in Bayreuth were frightful and I was afraid to stay there.
Germany is less civilized than France in that respect. Nurem-
berg is so interesting. If it were not so hot, I should like to
stay longer. Have to change to Austrian money at Innsbruck
and to French money next day. Love to all.

Affly., M. D. R.
15 225

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Innsbruck, Aug. 25th, 1892.
Dear Aunt Mary:

Although it is only six it is almost dark, as the high moun-
tains shut off the light very earh'. I don't know whether you
were here or not, but father and mother and I passed through
here once in cold weather in 1870 on our way from Verona to
Munich. Now the heat is so great that the snow is all melted
from the mountains, and a very hot, strong wind has pre-

ST. MORITZ

vented our driving about any to-day. To-morrow we go by
rail to Coire, and the next day by diligence or carriage to St.
Moritz in the Engadine, where w^e hope to be cool, as It is
higher than Mt. Washington. I may stay a week, as I need a
rest after my cure and have found the trip here from Hom-
bourg very trying. We left Frankfort at noon last Saturday
and arrived at Bayreuth at midnight in intense heat; had rooms
In a private house and took our meals anywhere. They only
had one sheet on each bed and I had a great time getting an-
other and slept under one sheet. Clifford didn't know what to

226

GERMANY

make of it. We got up late and after our coifee, went into the
Park to keep cool, visited Wagner's grave, and Frau Wagner's
house then took lunch, which cost us in that little primitive
place, ^2.00. The Opera Parsifal began at 4 p. m. and we
started a little after 3, found we had good seats. I w^as much
disappointed in the inward and outward appearance of the
theatre, but the performance was wonderful.

Vandyke was the Parsifal and looked just like the pictures
of Christ, The Duchess of Edinborough was there with the
Princess of Saxe Meiningen in the Royal box. At six there

Mier, wo ruein Wahneii Kricilcn fan-J,
..Walinfried" sei dieser Ort ziibcnannt.
Rich. Wagner.

THE HOUSE OF RICHARD WAG.XER, BAYREUTH

was a half-hour interval and we went out and got an ice and
at eight we had time to get a supper. We sat in the dark the
entire time and were not allowed to speak or move. It w^ould
take too long to tell you all about it now.

We went back to Nuremberg the next morning, our livers
upset by the intense heat and the frightful smells of Bayreuth.
Nuremberg is delightful. I took a carriage and we went every-
where. I got myself a little solid silver after-dinner coffee pot
there. They had such beautiful silver and peasant costumes.
I was crazy to bring a headdress and bodices, also at Bayreuth

they had most beautiful carved screen frames, beautiful shapes

227

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

ungilded very cheap, but I thought I could get them anywhere,
and have not seen one since. I think I shall get in London
one of those travelling capes that are so useful.

With love to all,

M. D. R.

Innsbruck, Aug. 25th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We arrived here yesterday afternoon at three p. m., worn
out with the heat and dust, and came to the Hotel Tyrol, near
the station. The place is perfectly beautiful, grand moun-

iiiJiiil^iNi

.:^.

KulEL TYROL, IXXSBRUCK

tains rising all around it, but a sirocco is prevailing, which
blows the dust in clouds on everything and makes riding or
walking unendurable. We rested until table d'hote dinner and
walked out in the town afterwards, but it was quite deserted
on account of the wind.

I thought, of course, it would rain, but this morning the
sun was shining brightly and the wind blowing as hard as ever.
We found it takes two whole days to go from here to the

228

GERMANY

Engadine, so decided to leave to-morrow 9.45 for Coire, reach-
ing there at 4.30 and next morning take either diHgence or
carriage to St. Moritz, taking the whole day.

This morning we walked through the whole town and en-
joyed the picturesque houses and the cathedral with the tomb
of Maximilian the Great and the high sized statues in bronze
of his relatives and ancestors. This afternoon we had intended
to drive to Castle Ambras but had to give it up on account
of the wind.

Our rooms are at the back of the house overlooking the
garden, and the mountains are so near, they look as though
they would fall over us. The snow is all melted off the sum-
mits with the intense heat. At Vienna they had it no degrees
and the drought makes it worse. I need a few days' rest in a
cool, quiet place after my cure, and have had too much trav-
elling in the last few days.

Bayreuth was a most awkward place to get at. If it had
not been for Bayreuth, I should have gone straight down to
the Black Forest and into Switzerland that way. If it stays
warm, I shall also have to give up the Italian Lakes. I will
let you know when we decide on our next movements. I
want to be back in Paris by the eleventh, but if not considered
advisable to stay, shall go on to London. I am so sorry I
did not get a carved wood screen at Bayreuth; they were so
pretty and reasonable. I haven't seen one since we left there.
It gets dark here very early on account of the high mountains.

With love, and hoping to get letters at St. Moritz,

Affly., M. D. R.

Germany is much more expensive than France, and it was
very dear at Hombourg. The sky looks very threatening, and
I have no doubt it will rain just in time for our day's drive
on Saturday which would be most unpleasant.

With much love,

M. D. R.

SWITZERLAND

St. Moritz, Aug. 29th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We arrived here very late Saturday afternoon. The weather
changed the night before we left Innsbruck coming on with
a hard rain about eight o'clock and lasting all night. It cleared
in the morning and we had a delightful railroad ride to Coire,
spent the night at the hotel Steinbock and watched the dili-
gences arrive from every direction.

As we could not get the best seats in the Diligence for St.
Moritz, we engaged a carriage and then visited the town,
which was very picturesque. The next morning we took break-
fast at half past five and were on our way at six. The weather
was magnificent, perfectly clear and cool, and we stopped at
Sairgno at noon for lunch, a quaint Italian place. The people all
looked Italian and spoke it, and yet it is German Switzerland.

It got very cold by the time we got to the top of the Julier
Pass, and we were almost frozen by the time we arrived at
St. Moritz after nine. People generally take two days to do
this trip, but we hadn't time. Yesterday it was 20°, wintry
cold and a fearful gale raging, so that we found it impossible
to stay out of doors and as the hotel was not heated in any way
we found it impossible to get warm. So in a few days we have
passed from intense heat to intense cold, and I don't know
which is the more disagreeable!

This morning we found it warmer and no wind so we walked
to Pontresina, a perfectly beautiful walk by lakes and
through pine forests, with glimpses of glaciers, and at Pon-
tresina, a quaint Italian town wnth little shops and grated

windows, had our lunch at the Kroner Hotel, full of English

230

SWITZERLAND

people and much more homelike and attractive than here.
There are two great glaciers in view from Pontresina, the
Roseg, and the Morteratsch, and we propose to make an ex-
cursion there very soon.

This hotel is filled with French and Germans and is very large
and bare. I think Pontresina more sheltered and picturesque.

TO CHUR, JULIER PASS

St. Moritz is too cold and windy. The wind is blowing again
furiously. We are trying to make up our minds what to do.

Cliff and I are both too cold to want to stay long and think
of leaving Friday for Chiavenna and Milan and spend Satur-
day there and take the express over the St. Gothard to Lu-
cerne, arriving there Saturday before night.

We all want to get to Zermatt, but it is so hard to get to.
I would have to take the Simplon Pass from Milan to Brieg.
Will let you know when I decide.

Hoping to hear soon,

Afffy., M. D. R.
231

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

St. Moritz, Thursday, Sept. ist, 1892.

The carriage will cost only about lYz francs more apiece
and is a little more independent. There is now some question
of quarantine between here and the Italian Lakes, but I am
not afraid of it.

Yesterday we had a delightful drive up the Fex Glacier,
and got home just in time to escape a heavy rain. This morn-
ing the whole party was to go on donkeys over the Furka
Pass, but the men said the weather was too threatening for
that trip, and as I did not feel very well, I was rather glad to
get rid of the excursion; also I wanted to write three or four
letters, and have a lot of mending to do. The whole day had
not been long enough, and I am frozen sitting in my room.
It looks very gloomy just at present and I am quite sure it
will rain to-morrow.

We will get to Chiavenna in time for the 3.45 train to the
Lakes and arrive late at Adilan, about 10 p. m. On Thursday
I expect to take the fast train to Lucerne over the St. Gothard,
and go from there to Geneva and meet the party at Zermatt.
I shall take the night train from Geneva Sunday night, Sept.
nth. Switzerland is very dear indeed. Since we left Inns-
bruck the money fiies;68 francs for our trip from Coire to
St. Moritz, 40 to Chiavenna and hotels dear.

The views are magnificent here, but the hotel is so cold I
should never want to stay here again. Of course. Cliff and I
will not see all the sights here, but will get an idea of what to
do another time. I have no doubt the weather is comfortable
now in other parts of Switzerland; it is not likely to be hot from
now on. With much love,

Affly., M. D. R.

ITALY

Milan, Sept. 3rd, 1892.
Dear Papa:

We got here late last night after travelling all day. I did
not have a chance to drop you a postal. Part of the way was
on a steamboat on Lake Como. The Lake was not blue,
however, like in the pictures. Milan Cathedral is most in-
teresting. I never saw so much detail massed together at
once.

Castelfranco is away in the country somewheres and so,
of course, we will not see him. The weather here is a great
change from that of Switzerland. We go to Lucerne to-mor-
row and from there to Lausanne. From Lausanne we go co
Zermatt, and then back the same way to Geneva where we
take the night train to Paris. There is no fear of cholera here
and there is no quarantine at the "borders."

Mother finds everything greatly changed, but still was
able to find the house where she used to live in 1869. The
landlady was dead or removed, for they did not know of any
such name. The streets here are well paved with cobbles,
but these cobbles differ a little from ours.

With love to all,

Afiiy., C.

233

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Milan, Sept. 3rd, 1892.
Dear Frank:

We have had lunch and arc going out again at 3 p. m.
We left St. Moritz yesterday morning in a little carriage and
had the most perfect drive you can imagine. We nearly froze
on the Swiss side and found it very hot as soon as we had crossed
the border. The descent is something wonderful.

We took the train at Chiavenna, after taking an expensive
but poor dinner, and at Colico took the boat. In order to get
the fast train to Milan w^e had to get off the boat at Bellano
and so missed Cadenabbia and Como, but it was a lovely ride
xate in the afternoon and the sunset was superb. There can
be nothing more beautiful in the world than the Italian
Lakes.

We had a comfortable ride from Bellano here by bright
moonlight and arrived at ten; came to the Hotel Metropole
because it is in the Place de Duomo and opposite the Galleria.
Prof. Castelfranco has not turned up, so I suppose he did not
get my note. CliflF and I went into the Cathedral and he went
all over the top. It is the most impressive interior we have
seen yet.

Cliff is delighted with Milan because it is gay and full of
shops. We then walked up to the Via Pasquirolo and went into
the house where I used to live in 1869, but the porter said there
was no family by the name of Meuni there so I didn't go up.
Milan is, of course, much changed and improved, with mag-
nificent new buildings and is a beautiful city.

We take the express over the San Gothard to-morrow and
will be in Lucerne to-morrow evening. I met a charming
French lady on the boat, who knew the Rochambeaus. Her
conversation was delightful. We are now going to the Santa
Maria delle Grazie to see the Last Supper and to drive around
and show Cliff the town.

With much love,

Yours aff., M. D. R.

SWITZERLAND

Grand Hotel National,

Lucerne, Sept. 4th, 1892.
Dear Father:

We arrived here to-night at six o'clock, after travelling
all day. We passed over the St. Gothard, but as it rained all
the time, we did not see much of the scenery. The hotel is
very big here but not very comfortable. We had quite a good
dinner. I hope we will not be quarantined when we come back
to America.

If it stops raining and the atmosphere is clear, I will go
up Mt. Rigi on the railroad to-morrow.

Love to all, C.

Grand Hotel National,

Lucerne, Sept. 5th, 1892.
Dear Father:

It is raining hard here so I will not be able to see anything
of Lucerne or its neighborhood. We leave here to-morrow
at 10.20 for Lausanne. We will not leave Switzerland until
the 1 2th so that we expect to receive your letter with full in-
structions and particulars.

This house is full of people and I had to be put in a room
in the annex, which is rather disagreeable. I was very much
disappointed yesterday that our trip over the Pass was spoiled
by the rain. Affiy., C.

235

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Hotel Seller

Zermatt
September 8th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

Here we are at Zermatt and a bitter disappointment awaits
us in the weather. It is pouring and apparently no sign of
its letting up. I wrote you at Milan and since then have not
been able to, from fatigue, we have travelled so fast.

Mr. Castelfranco was at the seashore so we didn't see him
at all; and we left Milan Sunday morning, after a shower,
which laid the dust, and had a delightful ride over the St.
Gothard Pass by Lugano and Como. It began to rain at
Goschenen, and turned very cold. We found no fires in the
hotel, nor in fact anywhere have they any provision against
the cold. It poured all day Monday in Lucerne. We walked
through the town and across the two old bridges and to Bos-
sards antique store. The house was occupied by the Papal
Nuncio in the last century and was very curious. They have
it now filled with armor, old furniture, silver, brocades, etc.
The next morning we started for Lausanne and had
a lovely ride, although it was not perfectly clear. We spent
the night at the Beau Rivage at Ouchy down on the lake,
but were put off in cold rooms in the dependance. It is the
most romantic spot possible and as we went to our rooms after
dinner late, it was bright moonlight. There was no one there
we knew.

Wednesday morning we took the boat as far as Villeneuve,
so Clifford saw Vevey, Montreux and Chillon, and we ex-
pected to get through to Zermatt the same evening, but when
we got to Villeneuve, they informed us the last train was
taken off from Visp to Zermatt and we would have to spend
the night at Visp. We arrived there at seven in a rain, but
found a comfortable hotel, but no fires. This morning the
sun was shining and as I was the first one down, I went out
into a beautiful garden at the back of the house and saw the

peasants going to church, so I followed them up the hill to a

236

SWITZERLAND

very ancient church, and it was a fete day; the church was
crowded with people, the peasants with their gold lace head-
dresses, etc., and the church itself had a gallery hanging over
the ravine, and was most picturesque.

At ten we took the train up here and it soon began to rain.
It took us three hours to come, and we had to get out and walk
and change into another train on account of a landslide which
occurred twoor three weeks ago and destroyed some of the track.

We went for our mail as soon as we had lunch and found
your two letters of the 21st and 25th, and one from Aunt
Mary, one from Clara saying they had not gone to Paris. At
Lausanne, I sent my trunk to Geneva to avoid bringing it up
here, and secured my sleeping car tickets for the Sunday night
train to Paris.

There seem to be plenty of Americans in Paris, and I think
by not drinking any of the Seine water, we will not run any
risk. The travelling this last week has been expensive. This
railroad from Visp cost 33 francs for us two and the same to
get back again, and I had to pay 50 francs for sleeping berths
from Geneva to Paris, and that don't include the fares.

We shall go from here to Martigny and by the south shore
to Geneva, as it is a shorter way. I cannot get to our ship for
the 28th unless I start now. I have allowed myself the least
time possible and want to spend five or six days in London.

There is fresh snow on the mountains all around almost
down to the village, and it looks dreary enough with the clouds
hanging so low. Even if it is clear to-morrow, I doubt if I
would be able to go on mules, but I hope to see something
before we leave Saturday morning. These sudden changes
of climate are trying to everyone. I hope sometime we can
come here together before we get too old.

I am doing what I think the very best in keeping on with
my original plan, and do not think anything would be gained
by delay. The big steamers from Liverpool will not take any
steerage passengers. With much love.

Yours affly., M. D. R.
237

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Grand Hotel National, Geneva,

September ii, 1892.
Dear Frank:

I ought to be out of doors looking at the gorgeous view of
the mountains, but I can't do that and write too. The atmos-
phere is perfectly clear, and the lake blue as indigo, while
ever}^ mountain stands out with perfect clearness. The whole
snow range of Mt. Blanc is visible, as it seldom is, and the
scene is too beautiful for my powers of description.

I wrote you at Zermatt the afternoon of our arrival when
I felt too sick to go down to dinner, therefore, you will be sur-
prised to hear that after a night's rest, and the day turned out
to be fine, I made up my mind to go up to the RiflPelberg.
Cliff walked and the rest went on horseback, but we didn't
have a clear view of the Matterhorn, and when we had passed
the second hotel, it began to snow, and we could not go all
the way to the Gorner Grat, as the snow was too deep the guide
said. I rode most of the way down, although the guides wanted
me to walk. I was afraid of getting my feet wet and was
not prepared for mountain climbing.

Yesterday morning I was less lame than I expected, and
we started off from Zermatt at ten, having a perfectly clear
view of the Matterhorn. Were we not fortunate, as others
had been there a week and gone away without seeing it.^

We had a long, tiresome ride of twelve hours here, and
arriving at Geneva, were informed there were no rooms for
us at the Beau Rivage, so came to the National, where we
have a fine front room between us, all we could get. This
hotel is magnificent, right on the lakes, and to-day the air is
just right. I think I am right to push on, as I see the City of
New York was released from quarantine and will probably
sail on the 28th. How I wish you could see this all, but I am
sure we will be over here two years from now if alive.

With much love, and looking forward to meeting again,

Yours aflay., M. D. R.

238

FRANCE

Normandy Hotel,
Paris, September 15th, 1892.
Dear Frank:

I was so tired I couldn't write as I ought to have done yes-
terday, and this is the first time to-day. It is just after table
d'hote and we are going with the Cochranes to the Hippo-
drome. We do not feel any fear of sickness here. The place
is full of Americans and you would never judge from the ap-
pearance of the city that there was any unusual sickness here,
and I don't think there is.

The Inman people here say the City of New York will sail
on the 28th. I feel that I have done the right thing in stick-
ing to my original dates. I would have preferred getting to
England rather than staying in Geneva. Everything is fright-
fully expensive in the way of clothes for women, but I think
I am going to like mine. We expect to leave here Wednesday
in the club train at 3 p. m. It is more expensive, but under
the circumstances, there is less chance of detention than going
second class. There was nothing but the ordinary examina-
tion of baggage between Switzerland and France in spite of
all the talk in the newspapers.

I must be off, so good-bye. How I wish you were here to
go with us. With much love,

Affly., M. D. R.

239

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Normandy Hotel,

Paris, Sept. 17, 1892.
Dear Frank:

The only thing I am afraid of is the fumigation of cloth-
ing, but I scarcely think the passengers of a ship like the City
of New York, coming from Liverpool without steerage pas-

VERSAILLES

sengers, will be subjected to it. It is cold and rainy here to-
day, but has been lovely since Monday.

We went to the Hippodrome night before last with the
Cochranes; enjoyed it very much. Last night we went to the
Theatre Francais near by and heard Hernani. Of course, the
great actors are not back yet, but it was very good. Mr.
Durand appeared day before yesterday with old Mr. Mourge
and the latter insisted upon our going early to-morrow morn-
ing for a whole day's excursion to Versailles and St. Germain,
and lunch at the Durand's.

Cliff and I went to the Musee Cluny to-day and enjoyed

240

FRANCE

it highly. It breaks my heart not to get lots of things I see
here, which it would pay to bring, but I can't do it.

I have written to the Metropole we will be there Wednes-
day night. There is much more illness in London, Typhoid
and Scarlet Fever, than in Paris. Clifford has bought his
watch and chain here at Henry Capt's, and has done a good
deal of sightseeing. How I wish you were coming over, and
we were going to stay a year.

Paris, Sept. 19th, 1892.
Dear Father:

We went out by invitation to Mr. Durand's at Versailles.
He and M. Mourge met us at the station in a carriage and
took us to the palace. We went over the whole of it and I was
struck by its immensity. The gardens were very handsome.
The whole building is filled with famous war pictures and
copies of other famous ones.

It took us about two hours to walk through, without look-
ing carefully at the pictures. We then took another carriage
and went to his house, where we were met by Mrs. Durand and
a friend of hers. The house is beautifully furnished with old
Breton furniture and has a pleasant garden. We had a pleas-
ant lunch and then we all got in a big carriage and drove to
St. Germain. There were six of us and when we got there we
found the palace closed, so we walked up and down the plateau
enjoying the fine view. There was just enough mist to give the
sunset some beautiful eifects. As soon as darkness closed in we
went into the Pavilion Henry IV, to a champagne dinner which
had been ordered beforehand. We had a small dining room to
ourselves, and the end facing Paris was entirely open so as to give
an undisturbed view. One by one the lights spread over the coun-
try and last of all the searchlights on the EiffelTower appeared.

We then sat down to dinner. M. Mourge was indefati-
gable and kept on the go all day although 85 years old. At
8.30 we left them and took the 9 o'clock train to Paris, while
they had to drive all the way to Versailles.

Affly., J. Cliiford Rosengarten.
16

,/,.::::i.^^j^^.

^\:.

EN ROUTE

The Hotel Metropole,
London, Thursday,
Sept. 22nd, 1892.
Dear Frank:

It was impossible for me to write for the last three days.
I was on the dead run. One day I went to the Luxembourg and
Louvre, and stood three hours at the dressmaker's, all in one
day.

I must write you about our Sunday in Versailles. We took
the 9.20 train and found Mr. Durand and old Mr. Mourge
waiting for us at the station. They took us in a carriage to
the Palace, and old Mr. M. conducted us like a guide through
the whole place. We spent two hours walking and then drove
to the Durand's to lunch.

There we had a delicious lunch with wines; and a very
pretty young lady (Franco-American) whose name I didn't
catch, and we all went in a big carriage to the Trianons and the
Court carriages. After that we drove an hour and a half to
St. Germain and saw the celebrated terrace and had dinner
at the Pavilion Henri IV.

That was Mr. Mourge's dinner and it was magnificent;

a private room, a centre piece of flowers, a fine menu ordered

expressly, and four or five kinds of wine and champagne. The

menus were given to us. They drank your health and wished

you were there.

242

EN ROUTE

You must write immediately on receipt of this and thank
them for their attention. Mr. Durand said he hoped you
would write to Mr. Mourge, he would be so pleased. We
were on our feet nearly all day and very tired with the driv-
ing, but the old man was perfectly fresh at the end. He is
certainly wonderful, 85 years old! I felt almost ashamed to
accept their hospitality, when we had never asked them to a
meal, but Mr. Mourge just made out the program and we
had to follow it. Mrs. Durand is quite gay and lively and wore
a youthful hat and magnificent diamond earrings.

At the opera we had a delightful evening, saw Salammbo
finely sung by Rose Caron, and magnificently mounted, and
between the acts walked through the foyer and about the
house. The Paris Opera House is the most superbly decorated
place you can imagine.

It cost us to come from Paris here on the club train, ^56,
including our lunch and fees at hotel, omnibus, etc. The club
train is the first fast one I have seen; Pullman cars, and we
had a fine dinner, and a smooth trip across the channel from
7.30 to nearly 9. I had neglected to leave out my wraps and
an English lady lent me one so I didn't have to go below. She
turned out to be an aunt of the cricketer, Mr. Wright, who
came over with Lord Hawke's team last year.

There was no difficulty about baggage; they examined it
on the train, and only opened one trunk, so you see you can't
believe what the newspapers say. We found rooms ready for
us here and it was hard work to get up this morning.

Love to all,

Affly., M. D. R.

Suggestions for reading matter.
For Mrs. Rosengarten:

The Upton Letters.

From My College Window — A. Benton.
The Golden Days of the Renaissance in Rome — Lanciani.

243

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Roman Days — Victor Rydberg.

J. Addington Symond's Autobiography.

The Florence of Landor.

The World Beautiful in Books.

The World Beautiful.

These are some of the books which we have enjoyed this win-
ter. Roman Days is not in every library. I think the tran-
lation is by Lindehn. You will delight in it I know.

Sallie P. Brooks.

THE JOURNEYS OF i897

After an interval of five years the inexorable desire for
travel culminated in the fulfillment of long studied plans. In
the meantime tours had been made in California, Canada and
distant parts of the United States.

The leading plans were based on a nearer study of pic-
turesque England, especially the Southern Counties Devonshire
and Cornwall and some of the most interesting Cathedrals.

After these had been accomplished and visits made to Paris,
thence to Brussels, Cologne and Hombourg and the "Kur,"
there came the memorable trip through the Black Forest and
on to Sigmaringen.

There the reception by Count and Countess Adelmann,
the dinner given to their "American guests" by the Prince
of Hohenzollern (Cousin of the Emperor and brother of the
King of Rumania), and visits to most interesting historic
castles, were followed by a journey to Munich and thence to
Hohenstadt, the castle of Count Adelmann.

After the return to Paris, short tours to Fontainebleau,
Chantilly, Compiegne, Laon, Rouen and places memorable
by their participation in the terrible War of 1914-1916, were
made.

Rouen and Havre were visited in company with Mrs.
Thackara, daughter of General Wm. T. Sherman, and wife of
the then Consul General of the United States at Havre.

The journey homeward was completed in September, 1897,
aboard the French Steamship "Touraine." F. H. R.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF i897

S. S. ST. PAUL

Fellow Passengers June

Bellamy Storer June

Mme. Vere de Sapio. . . .June
Meeting ot Passengers. . .June
F.H.R.made Secretary. . .June
Resolutions to promote
American Shipping. . . .June

Southampton June

Shanklin, Daisch's Hotel June
Review of Jubilee Fleet June
200 English, 12 foreign

ships June

Ryde, Isle of Wight June

Newport June

Cowes June

Ventnor, Isle of Wight. . .June
Bonchurch, Isle of Wight June
Carisbrooke Castle, Isle

of Wight June

Salisbury, England June

Concert in the Cathedral

Ground? June

Cedars of Lebanon June

Bishop of Exeter and the

service June

Stonehenge June

Old Sarum June

Amesbury June

Exeter June

The Cathedral June

Tombs of Bishops and

Crusaders June

Service in Cathedral June

Penzance, Cornwall June

Devonshire, Cornwall . . .June

St. Michael's Mount June

Land's End June

"Dundagil by the Cornish

Sea" June

Primitive village June

Logan Rock June

Tintagel, Land of King

Arthur June

Land's End and Mine-
head June

British and Druid Ruins June

Truro — St. Ives June

Camelford June

Mrs. R. sitting on Ar-
thur's Seat 600 ft.

above the sea July

Ilfracombe July

Clovelly and the New Inn July

20,

1897

2.v3

20,

1897

2.v3

21.

1897

2=;s

21,

1897

2,s,=;

22,

1897

257

22,

1897

2,S7

2.3,

1897

2S7

24,

1897

2r;8

24,

1897

258

24,

1897

2,!;9

24,

1897

2.S9

24.

1897

2^9

2=;,

1897

2S9

26,

1897

261

26,

1897

261

26,

1897

261

26,

1897

262

26,

1897

262

26,

1897

262

26,

1897

263

26,

1897

26^

26,

1897

263

26,

1897

263

27,

1897

26^

27,

1897

265

28,

1897

26,-

28,

1897

26^

29,

1807

268

29,

1897

268

29,

1897

268

29,

1897

268

30,

1897

268

^o,

1897

268

30,

1897

269

30,

1897

271

30,

1897

271

30,

1897

269

30,

1897

269

30,

1897

271

1897

272

1897

272

1897

277

Biddeford July

Barnstable July

Lynton July

Lynmouth July

Lorna Doone Country. . .July

Porlock July

Minehead July

Exmoor July

Bath JulV

Wells JulV

Wells Cathedral July

Glastonbury Abbey July

Oxford July

Blenheim Castle July

Fine weather in Corn-
wall, Devonshire, Som-
ersetshire, Wiltshire,
Hampshire and part of

Dorsetshire July

Deer in Magdalen Gar-
dens Ju'y

Christ Church College. . .July

London July

Eton and Harrow Cricket

Match July

Earl's Court July

Welcome Club July

Sunday on the Thames July
The wonderful crowds. . .July

Paddington July

David Bispham July

"Skindles" July

Electric Launch for the

day July

Passing the "Locks". . . .July

Cliveden July

Cookham July

Surley Hall July

Windsor July

Richmond July

Star and Garter July

Sheen House, former home

of Count de Paris July

Hotel Metropole, Lon-
don July

Weather like May July

Fames in Nozze di Fig-
aro, at the Opera July

Henley Regatta July

Indian Prince at Hotel. . .July
Ride down Strand on bus July
Chancery Lane, Lincoln
Inn and High Holbornjuly

249

1897

274

1897

274

1897

274

1897

274

1897

274

1897

276

1897

276

1897

276

1897

276

1897

276

1897

277

1897

279

1897

279

1897

279

8, 1897 279

1S97
1897
1897

1897
1897
1897
1897
1897
1897
1897
1897

1897
1897
1897
1897
1897
1897
1897

280
280
281

282
283
283
284
284
284
284
284

285
285
285
28s
285
285
285
285

12, 1897 286

1897
1897

1897
1897
1897
1897

286
287

287
287

17, 1897 289

INDEX

Irving and Terry at
theatre Ju

Supper at the "Savoy" Ju

Folkstone, Boulogne and
Paris Ju

Hotel Normandie Ju

Jardin des Tuilleries Ju

Versailles and Mons.
Mourgue Ju

Fontainebleau and Bar-
bizon Ju

Scare about luggage Ju

Jupiter and Pharamond,
great trees Ju

Cologne, Brussels and
Exposition Cathedral. .Ju

Journey up the Rhine Ju

Frankfort Ju

Hombourg an der Hohe Aug.

Royal Victoria tlotel. . . .Aug.

Kursaal Aug.

Wiesbaden Aug.

Saw Sons of mj- old Pro-
fessor Aug.

Frcsenius and the Lab-
oratory Aug.

Invitations from Count
and Countess Adelmann Aug.

Future Review by Em-
peror William Aug.

Baths and waters in the
Kur Aug.

The "Saalburg" — An-
cient Roman Camp. . . .Aug.

The old "Schloss," re-
furnished for Emperor
\\ illiam's visit Aug.

Dinner on the Kurhaus
Terrace Aug.

Castle garden and curi-
ous shaped Box Plants Aug.

Hombourg, after a S
years' interval (1892). .Aug.

Bicycle outing to the
Tannenwald Aug.

Yagd House gaieties Aug.

Exhaustion from waters
and baths Aug.

Dance at the Kursaal
under patronage of the
Duke of Cambridge . . .Aug.

Fireworks and illumina-
tions at the Kursaal . . .Aug.

Heidelberg, Hausach and
Triberg Aug.

Sigmaringen on the Dan-
ube Aug.

Meeting Countess Adel-
mann Aug.

Dinner given to us by
Leopold of Hohenzol-
lern. Cousin of Emperor
William H Aug.

Count (Hof Kammcr
y 17,1897 290 President) and Countess

y 17, 1897 292 Adelmann Aug.

Strange sensations of a

y 21, 1897 293 Richardson Aug.

y 21, 1897 294 Riding in Royal Carriage.

y 25, 1897 294 Description of our

home at Hof Kammer

y 25, 1897 294 Building Aug.

Wonders of Schloss Hoh-

y 25, 1897 295 enzollern Aug.

y 28, 1897 297 Monastery of Beuron on

the Danube Aug.

y 30, 1897 298 Gregorian Music Aug.

Pater Nicholas, head of

y 30, 1897 301 the Benedictines Aug.

y 30, 1897 301 Schloss Grueningcn and
30, 1897 301 the family Hornstein Aug.

2, 1897 302 Count Hornstein's family
2, 1897 302 book and his illumina-

2,1897 304 ted coats of arms, etc. Aug.

2,1897 303 Portraits and embroideriesAug.
Sedan Chair to play

2, 1897 303 bowls Aug.

Graf Bruhl and Graf

6, 1897 306 Gallen Aug.

Menu of the Dinner Aug.

2, 1897 303 Burg Hohenzollern at

Hechingen Aug.

6, 1897 307 Hohenstauffen Aug.

Jamestown corn, toma-
2, 1897 304 toes and flannel cakes Aug.

Ulm, Hotel Drei MohrenAug.
6, 1897 305 Augsburg, Fugger Haus Aug.

Munich Aug.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof. . .Aug.
6, 1897 307 Cosi Fan Tutti, Resi-

denz Theatre Aug.

6, 1897 307 Kaim Concert Aug.

Tristan & Isolde, Vogl as

6, 1897 307 Tristan Aug.

Fledermaus Aug.

II, 1897 309 Old Clock bought for

library Aug.

11,1897 309 Aalen Aug.

II, 1897 310 Schloss Hohenstadt and
its interesting services.

11,1897 310 Crypt Aug.

Adelmannsfelden Aug.

French Garden Aug.

I3> 1897 311 Tablet of Ancestor of

Crusaders Aug.

I3> 1897 311 Great Moat and gold fish Aug.

Souffle au Chocolat Aug.

20,1897 316 Wonderful Stair Case. .. .Aug.
Hohenstadt and its

19, 1897 311 dozen or more farms.. Aug.
Stuttgart Aug.

20, 1897 314 Freudenstadt in the
Black Forest Sept.

Tubingen, scene of hus-
band's University ex-
20, 1897 314 periences in 1869-70. Sept.

250

1897 314

1897 317

1897 318

1897 319

1897 319
1897 320

20, 1897 321

1897 321

1897 323

1897 322

1897 323

1897 330

1897 328

1897 330

1897 331

1897 332

1897 334

1897 336

1897 338

1897 339

I, 1897 340

3. 1897 341

INDEX

Drive through the Black
Forest Sept.

Oppenau Sept.

Strasbourg Sept.

Paris, Normandy Hotel. .Sept.

Rainy weather Sept.

Unable to go to Vosges
Mountains on account
of rain Sept.

American Church, Paris. Sept.

Costs of dresses, etc.,
very high Sept.

Meal at the "Diner de
Paris" Sept.

Compiegne, Pierrefonds . .Sept.

Galleries of the Louvre,
Luxembourg, Ver-
sailles and others Sept.

Latin Quarter and Ecole
Polytechnic Sept.

Paris Sept.

3. 1897 341

3, 1897 341

3. 1897 341

3, 1897 341

9, 1897 343

9, 1897 344

9. 1897 344

9, 1897 344

9, 1897 345

9, 1897 345
9, 1897 344

Palace 01 the Senate Sept. 9,

Laon, Rheims Sept. 14,

Description of Com-
piegne, etc Sept. 14,

Laon Sept. 14,

Cathedral at Rheims and

Roman Arch Sept. 14,

Paris Sept. 17,

Visit from Sigmund Adel-

mann Sept. 19,

Journey to Rouen, meet-
ing there Mrs. Thack-
ara, daughter of Gen'l
Sherman and the in-
teresting things in

Rouen Sept. 19,

Visit to the Thackaras at
Havre, where he is Con-
sul General Sept. 14,

Aboard S. S. Touraine. . .Sept.24,
Rough voyage

1897 345

1897 346

1897 348

1897 350

1897 348
1897 350

EN ROUTE

U.S. M.S. "St. Paul"
Wed. June i6, 1897, 11 A. M.
Off Sandy Hook.
Dear Boys,

Thus far everything most satisfactory — sea calm as a mill
pond and Mother fixing state room as if she were to stay per-
manently aboard. Lots of acquaintances. Mama shed a tear
of gratitude for your good-bye greetings. Love to you both

from us,

Yr. aff.

F. H. R.

Aboard the "St. Paul,"

Sunday, June 20th, 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are rolling off 20 miles an hour in midocean and
more than half over to Europe and your Mother and I have
been to every meal, on deck all day and far into the night and
sleeping like tops, and your Mother eating strawberries and
soft shell crabs, pastry and shad, lobster and all the indi-
gestible things imaginable.

Our state room is most comfortable and convenient and
we have an excellent place at table on the port side in an alcove
next to Hon. Bellamy Storer, Minister to Belgium, and we
have become quite friendly with him and his family. We find
a number of friends aboard and there are lots of nice young

253

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

girls. The first two days were fairly smooth and sunshiny,
but Friday and yesterday were rainy, cold and a heavy sea.
The ship goes ahead, however, making about 460 miles a day
on the Southern track to avoid icebergs and fog.

We have had no fog and see no ships or live things. 1
wish you both were with us, I think of you every minute and
shall miss you both.

Our plans are just as unsettled as ever and we wdll have to
write you later when our intentions are fixed.

We have a lot of Bishops aboard and about thirty Phila-

4 ¥A

ABOARD S. S. ST. PAUL, JUNE, 1897

delphians. Mr. Wm. P. Clyde with a lot of daughters, Mr.
Frank Firth with a party. I believe you both would have en-
joyed the trip, and Sam would have a taste of the sea under
good auspices. The St. Paul is as firm and staunch as a rock
and I was scared a bit at her big roll, but she recovers so
steadily and firmly I quite enjoy it now.

There are two bright Japanese merchants, some French
folks who amuse Mary, and people from all over the States.
I talk a good deal with the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court
of Wisconsin, a very cheery, intelligent man. The service is

very good and folks can eat and drink all the time. The young

254

EN ROUTE

men aboard don't have much fun, there being no one to lead
off. I gave my letter to the Captain, but we have seen little
or nothing of him and fortunately have no need to bother him.
I will write more as we approach Southampton. Writing
is not easy with the ship shaking.

Monday, 21st, 3 P. M.
Dear Boys,

I can scarcely realize that to-morrow is our last day and
I have never been sick. We have seen and passed several
ships. The Barringers and the son of Mrs. Bellamy Storer
named Nichols, who is a Harvard graduate and has just
taken a fellowship at Johns Hopkins, are the only young men
I know, except young Davies, w^ho came up to speak to me and
introduced me to all the family, and they are very nice. The
Storers have a daughter who married the Marquis de Cham-
brun, who lives in Washington. We find Mr. Storer is first
cousin to the Tysons.

There is a prize fighter on board by the name of Sharkey,
who gave a performance of punching the bag this p. m. He
seems to attract the boys and I saw young Davies walking
with him. There is to be a concert to-night and Mme. de Vere
Sapio who sang the time we crossed five years ago is going
to sing, and a French lady is going to play. To-morrow will
be our last day and we shall be busy packing and getting our
things in shape. Your Father says he has no plans, but he
has decided he wants to go to the Isle of Wight all the same.
We miss you very much

M. D. R.

Nearing Southampton,

• June 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are speeding along at a 20 mile an hour "clip" —
467 miles to-day, the average run and neither your Mother
nor I have had a moment's discomfort, on the contrary we are
just from dinner after a meal that would have suited you both.

255

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The hours fly by and yet wc do little. Sharkey the prize
fighter is always "en evidence" and to-day pave an exhibition
in his green fighting trunks punching the bag on the Deck.
Then there are lots of nice young girls and fellows and every-
body well and amiable. To-night there is to be a concert for
the Seamen's Orphans' Society, beginning with Mr. Storerand
ending with a clergyman, but Mr. Sharkey takes the next to
the last number. So time goes and we look forward to land-
ing on Wednesday noon.

To-day I made the tour of the hold of the ship with the
first officer, on his inspection, a favor no one else has had and
I was greatly pleased with the wonderful arrangements and
the cleanliness and good discipline. There isn't an unpleasant
odor anywhere and everywhere the tidiness and cleanliness
are pleasing.

While we have head winds, rain and a heavy sea, the old
ship plows right through them and this evening is wet and
cloudy. I don't pretend to keep a diary, so you will have to
depend on our telling you of things in detail on our return in
September.

Your Mother is like a young girl, so enthusiastic and well
and making plans for our journeys, so I rest content and let
her have her way.

So good-night and accept our deepest expression of love
and good wishes to you both for lots of happiness and health.
Tell my brothers of our good fortune in escaping illness and

in meeting nice people.

As ever your affectionate

F. H. R

Tuesday, June 22nd, 1897, 9.30 P. M.
Approaching Port in a fog.

U.S. M.S. "St. Paul"
Dear Harry,

Our journey will be ended at noon to-morrow and a happy
one it has been indeed! While we have had rain, are now in

a fog and the wind blew a half gale for a day or two, Mary

256

EN ROUTE

and I have been wonderfully well and never missed a single
meal and the good ship St. Paul is as staunch as a rock,

I have had the good luck, through Griscom's courtesy and
on the coat tails of Frank Firth, President of the Erie and
Western Transportation Co., and Wm. P. Clyde, the head of
the Clyde Line, of seeing this ship in every nook and cranny,
and am delighted with the marvels of construction.

To-night there was the usual meeting to thank the officers
of the ship for our safe journey thus far. Hon. Bellamy Storer,
Minister to Belgium, opened, and the Chief Justice of the
Supreme Court of Wisconsin presided and I acted as Secre-
tary. All the passengers were in the Saloon and we had some
good resolutions and rattling speeches from Bishop Neely of
Maine, Judge Cassady of Wisconsin and Storer. As the reso-
lutions will be spread pretty wide by the S. S. Co., should any
letters come to me at the office as Secretary, read them and,
if of any use, have copies sent to C. A. Griscom, as Clyde and
others want to start a movement for legislation to promote
ships carrying the American flag.

We will probably land at Southampton to-morrow noon
if this fog don't interfere and go to the Isle of Wight for a day
and then on to Cornwall and Devonshire and later to London.

I have met a few interesting people, Storer being at our
table with his wife and son and very companionable, his wife
being a daughter of Nicholas Longworth of Cincinnati, the
son a bright fellow who has taken a fellowship at Johns Hop-
kins University.

It is hard to realize we are not going into Newport Harbor
in a fog instead of being out 200 miles from shore in the " Broad
Atlantic," it is so smooth and people so cheery.

Your aff. brother,

ENGLAND

Daisch's Hotel, Shanklin, Isle of Wight, England
My Dear Boys, Thursday, June 24, 1897.

Here we are, busy sightseeing and everything so beautiful
and new to us. Your Mother is wonderfully well and rested

SOUTHAMPTON

well at Southampton. I went with Mr. Page to see the town

there, saw four cricket Matches and the town was gay with

iiags for the Queen's Jubilee and at least 500 yachts, big and

258

ENGLAND

little, in the harbor. We made a tour around the war ships,
200 EngHsh and a dozen foreign, including the Brooklyn
which was most imposing of all.

This morning we took the boat to Cowes where we saw
Goelet's Mayflower at anchor, a splendid boat, thence still
on our pretty little steamer to Ryde Pier and then by train
to this exquisite place. Newport is just a little reminder of
it and yet this is so old and so perfect it is wonderful.

We met a party coaching who had crossed on the steamer
with us, and we are to drive in a few minutes to Ventnor, where
we spend to-night and dine with them. To-morrow we will
take a coach ride and be back in Southampton by Sunday and
thence to Salisbury. Oh how I wish you were with us to enjoy
it all, altho it is a bit hot. Your Mother joins me in best love
to you both. Love to your uncles. a rr F H R

White Hart Hotel,
Salisbury, Eng., June 25, 1897.
Dear Sa.m,

Here we are under Lhe shadow of the Cathedral after such
a two days as I never had before. We saw Southampton with
over 1000 Yachts, wxnt around the 200 warships and went
yesterday noon to the Isle of Wight, lunching at Shanklin,
going through Bonchurch to a delicious Hotel, coaching to-day
to Carisbrooke Castle and going all over it, thence to New-
port, the Capital of the Isle of Wight, took train to Cowes,
saw Mayflower and Valiant, and back to Southampton and
here we are wxll and not tired.

If you were along we w^ould be completely happy.

AflFy. F. H. R.

White Hart Hotel,
Salisbury, Eng., June 26, 1897.
Dear Laura,

Since writing you on board ship, so much has happened
I don't know how to begin. We all separated on landing at

259

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Southampton in a hot sun. W'c went to Radlcy's hotel, and
stayed over night, and left at 1 1 a. iM. next day for Isle of
W ight. The crowds of people at Southampton were terrific.
Frank and I had intended to come back Friday and stop over
night there en route here, but couldn't get a bed on account
of the crowds coming to see the Naval Review.

While I unpacked trunks, &:c. Frank went on a three hours'
trip around the battleships, and didn't get home until after
ten at night. I w^as sorry not to go, but of course had to give

mmammoM

DAISCH'S HOTEL. SHANKLIN, ISLE OF WIGHT

up as I was not feeling well enough. So the next day w^e took
the boat for Cowes and Ryde and I saw them all, without any
trouble. I thought ourWar Ship Brooklyn looked the best of all.
We took the train at Ryde Pier and went to Shanklin and
this time went to Daisch's hotel in the village and had a deli-
cious lunch and Frank went out after, down the Chine and
along the Esplanade and I rested. Words fail to describe the
hotel, the oldest on the Isle of Wight. It had the most per-
fect roses climbing to the roof and such vines ! And everywhere
growing on roofs and walls, is a dark pink flower they call a

weed and makes an exquisite effect ot color. Also a yellow

260

ENGLAND

lichen and such gardens with hedges and terraces and the pea-
cocks strutting about.

Instead of taking the train, we had a carriage and drove
over to Ventnor through Bonchurch and Luecombe. It was
certainly a paradise on earth. We stopped at the old church
at Bonchurch, built in 1070, with Norman remains and such
a churchyard and flowers and trees. Frank got excellent pic-

'■*'^'^

BOXCHURCH, ISLE OF WIGHT

tures of Shanklin thatched village and Bonchurch. At Vent-
nor Frank was glad to see his friend Mr. Firth and party at
the "Crab and Lobster," the most perfect hotel you can
imagine, delicious beds, linen sheets, perfect service, and such
a restful place.

We arranged to go the next morning at 10.30 to Caris-
brooke Castle by coach. So the next morning a swell coach
appeared with four horses and trumpeter and we all piled on,
baggage and all, and had the most heavenly ride of fifteen
miles across the Island to Carisbrooke Castle, which we saw

thoroughly while lunch was being prepared at the "Eight

261

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Bells" in the village. As I had been all over the Castle before,
I kept quiet and enjoyed looking at everything, and then we
went down to a perfect lunch and were surprised to find the
table set out on a lawn, like velvet, behind the little Inn and
great towering trees overhead. We revelled in strawberries
there and everywhere and then we took the train at Newport
for Cowes and there we found the crowd again.

We got over to Southampton about five o'clock and to
Radlev's, where I had left the trunks. So I started two trunks

THE CRAB AND LOBSTER, VENTNOR

for London and then we got off for Salisbury and arrived here
at about eight o'clock. On our arrival we found that there
was a concert in the Cathedral grounds and illumination of
the Bishop's palace, so of course we went at once. You can
imagine how the great Cathedral and the cedars of Lebanon,
looked in the artificial light, altho at 9.30 there was still day-
light. Such turf cannot be seen out of England, it is so fine
and springs up like a velvet carpet.

This morning we all went to service at 10 and the full

262

ENGLAND

choir and the Bishop of Exeter and we ten Americans con-
stituted the congregation, and we sat in the choir. The sing-
ing and intoning were Hke from angels and such fine fugue
music. Then we were conducted all over the Cathedral.

As soon as we came back, I had decided we would drive to
Stonehenge as it was a grey day and I wanted to see it under
such a sky. So we were off again in a drag, and went by way
of Old Sarum, the ancient British camp, and afterwards
Roman, which was the beginning of Salisbury. Then we went
out to Amesbury and wandered around the old Abbey Church

LUNCH AT CARISBROOKE CASTLE AT "EIGHT BELLS INN"

and a beautiful private park and quaint old houses. We only
had a few minutes for lunch at the "George," and it was so
good, cold meats and salad and hot potatoes and a hot Goose-
berry tart with cream. Frank was the last to get into the
brake with his mouth full and then we were off to Stonehenge.
Instead of being on a low flat plain, it is on high rolling
country, but bare and lull of little hillocks called "barrows,"
which were Saxon burial places. The great stones are some-
thing wonderful, looming up against the dark sky, the mystery

263

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

of the ages, as there is no positive knowledge as to how they
got there when there is no appearance of stone, or what they
were put there for. Standing on the sacrificial altar and look-
ing through between two great stones, one, situated at a little
distance, comes up directly in the middle and marks where
the sun rises on the longest day of the year, June 2 1st.

We drove off right over the grassy downs and the effect
of Stonehenge against the sky was immense, too overpowering
to either realize or describe. It and the Sphinx remain the
unsolvable mysteries of all time.

SALISBURY CATHEDRAL

We came back direct to the Railway station and had a good
rest and dinner and it has rained hard. Frank went to the
Cathedral Close and took some pictures. To-morrow we go
to the Sunday morning service and at 2 p. m. go to Exeter,
where we shall be over night, and leave late in the afternoon
for Penzance.

Frank is like a boy out of school and calls himself a per-
sonally conducted tour and refuses to lift his fingers to do
anything but take photographs and pay the bills.

Love to all,

Afiiy, M. D. R.

264

ENGLAND

Hotel Salisbury, June 27th, 1897.
Dear Cliff,

Here we are at a typical English Tavern, have been here
since Friday night. We arrived from the Isle of Wight in
time to dine and attend the Bishop's Concert in the private
grounds of his palace. Since then we have been busy doing
the Cathedral and Stonehenge and to-day we go to full ser-
vice at the Cathedral and leave for Exeter at 2 p. ai. to see
the See there.

Your Mother is just as indefatigable as ever and happy
all the time and full of adjectives of admiration and desire
to learn of the history and origin of things. The climate here
is most enjoyable to me, altho the sky is dark and foggy and
even rainy at times

We will get to Penzance to-morrow and may go even to
Land's End which as you can see by the map is pretty near the
"jumping off place." Distances are absurdly small here and
yet it is as much of a job to move on as if for a transatlantic tour.

Yrs. affectionately, F. H. R.

Monday, June 28th, 1897.
Royal Clarence Hotel,

Exeter.
Dear Boys,

As you see by this heading I am sitting in a lovely bay
window overlooking Exeter Cathedral, where we have spent
the last hour seeing such beautiful things, tombs of bishops,
dating from nth century, and crusaders lying inside their
stone coffins.

Your Father and I went to service yesterday at Salisbury
Cathedral with a young New Yorker studying Anthropology.
We went to Stonehenge and we came on here by the 2 o'clock
train, which started at 3 and got here at six, just in time for
a delicious dinner, and we were pleased to find ourselves in
this quaint old Inn and near the Cathedral.

We rushed dinner to get to the 7 p. m. service, and en-
joyed it with eye and ear. It is so different from Salisbury

26.S

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

bXETER CATHEDRAL

INTERIOR OF EXETER CATHEDRAL
266

ENGLAND

that it is impossible to compare them. The former is enormous
and very lofty, giving a distinctly cold impression, surrounded
by cedars of Lebanon and exquisite parks, while this has very
little ground about it but is much more decorated and re-
minds me very much of the French Cathedrals, mixed with

Oxford.

The Bishop's chair reaches to the roof and is the finest
wood carving in the world and is also unique in possessing a
minstrel's gallery. After the service last evening we went about
the town through the High St. which was thronged with peo-

PENZANCE

pie and your Father thought it looked more like a German
than an English town. And this morning he went hard at
work with his camera.

On our way to the Palace Gardens we were attracted by a
very fine old wooden gate closing an arch way and peeped in to
find a little court with most beautiful quaint windows and doors
and a Latin inscription, and took some pictures of it. The verger
of the Cathedral told us that it had been a part of the original
Bishop's House, the one who rebuilt the Norman Cathedral
and had it decorated. Tell Ellen we are revelling in goose-

267

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

berry tart with Devonshire cream and get her to make you
one. With much love from both of us,

Your aff. Mother, M. D. R.

Penzance, Cornwall, England,

June 29, 1897.
Dear Boys,

Can you imagine us here, within a few miles of Land's
End, the S. W. Corner of England? Well we left Exeter this
afternoon after seeing the beautiful Cathedral built in 1160
and the quaint old town and came through the most exquisite
scenery of Devonshire and Cornwall. We will visit St. Mich-
aels Mount (a miniature Mont St. Michel), Land's End, etc.,
and then go for our coaching tour up to North Cornwall and
Devonshire and to Bath and Wells and then up to London.
We are so on the go we can't do much writing. We both send
best love and wishes, awaiting good news from vou.

Your aff. ' F. H. R.

WharnclilTe Arms Hotel,
Tintagel, North Cornwall.
June 30th, 1897.
Dear Boys,

I began a letter to you at Exeter and was called away in
the middle of it, and fear it is now lost, as I put it in the guide
book which we are constantly using.

I have been revelling to-day in this King Arthur land in
old stone cofHns, and relics of Druid times, and in the Castle
"Dundagil by the Cornish Sea" and no words can describe
the beauty of this coast, and the wonderful color effects in
the sky; it is much finer than Jersey and Guernsey, while re-
sembling them very much.

This village is so primitive one might almost call it prime-
val. There is no wood to be seen on the outside of the houses.
The door frames and window frames are stone and slate and
the cottages appear so much like the rock formation that crops

out between the turf that if it were not for the chimneys and

268

ENGLAND

smoke thereof you wouldn't know they were houses. And such
hills and gorges and chasms!

King Arthur's Castle is partly on a high cliff on the main-
land and partly on an island which is connected by a causeway
to the other somewhat like the one at Sark, only much smaller,
as in old times a drawbridge joined the two. I hope your
Father's pictures will turn out wxll, so you can get a little
idea of what we have seen, altho' no picture can do justice
to the coloring.

We are arranging to coach to Clovelly to-morrow and will

LAND'S END, CORNWALL

have a long day's ride, but your Father likes to move on even
faster than I do, but we have no interest in the sort of people
staying in these places as they are the regulation funereal sort.
Of course we are both anxious to get our first letters which we
expect at Ilfracombe in a day or two. Your Father wrote
you from Penzance and since then we have driven round Land's
End and the Logan rock and it was very interesting, the coast
very fine and full of interesting British and Druid remains
hke old crosses and cromlechs, &c. There were so many places
J would have liked to stay at, Truro and St. Ives, &c.

We saw some amusing names on the grave stones or tablets

269

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

in Salisbury Cathedral. I remember Money Fishe, Post-
humous Chapeau and Pothecarye Jones. 1 heard a man ask
a woman near Penzance if it had rained where she had been
that day and she said, "oh no, just a jump or two :" and the com-
mon people say, "Pll look after he, sir;" "There's nothing
near we, ma'am." There are a good many young people
travelling on their wheels, but how they ever get up these
hills I don't understand.

LOGAN ROCK, CORNWALL

With much love and hoping to hear from you soon, with
kind remembrances to the girls. I am getting stronger every
day. This is the climate for me. With love.

Your AfT. Mother, M. D. R.

Tintagel, WharncliflFe Arms Hotel,

Cornwall June 30th, 1897.
Dear Laura,

The last day of June finds us in this heavenly spot, where

I have longed to come for years. When we drove over in a

270

ENGLAND

wagonette from Camelford it was eight o'clock and bright
dayHght, but the most beautiful evening sky effects you can
imagine. The sweet smells from the flowers and hedges are
almost overpowering and the air is always cool even when the
sun is hot. This morning dawned clear and we took a pony
cart to go first to the old Saxon church and afterwards to
King Arthur's castle, "Dundagil by the Cornish Sea." But
it came on to rain as the English say and I with the pony cart
hurried back.

You would have screamed with fear if you had seen the
hills I went down and up. At 5 o'clock this P. M. it cleared and
I with Frank went down the gorge to the little cottage where the
key is kept. Frank said it was no use for me to do it, that the
walk down the valley and back again would be more than I
could do, but off we started and took the guide and went up.

Perhaps you remember Mr. Wm. T. Richards' pictures
of Tintagel. There is a high headland with part of the castle,
the old Saxon keep and beyond that a sort of island attached
to the mainland by a small causeway. In former times the
two parts were connected by a drawbridge 200 or 300 feet up
in the air. The finest part of the Maine coast is child's play
compared to this coast. Frank's pictures will be the only
way we can describe it for if I wrote every day I couldn't begin
to tell you what we see and do.

This is the dearest little hotel, and the food dainty and
delicious, all but the coffee, which we put up with. Land's
End and this place take one back to the stone age. Everything
is stone — the houses, the roofs, the fences, everything, and
the chimneys are very peculiar and look like old women in
cloaks as you will see by Frank's pictures. There is a little
one-story stone house struggling down the street with slate
roof and high chimneys and bunches of yellow flowers grow-
ing on the roof and a porch like a church has.

The sunset is so fine we must go out for a while. Last

night at 8.30 the sun was still high up in the sky and it was

light at 10.30. There are a lot of stiffys in the house, clergy-

271

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

men's widows, &c., and there is the general effect of a funeral
having recently taken place in the house, but it don't bother
us as we are always moving on. It is after nine p. m. and
Frank is sitting out of doors reading. I am afraid to do so as
I came in so warm from my climbing and it gets so cold out,
I would surely take cold.

There is only one street and the babies out of these stone
houses are still up and playing in the street with low necked
dresses and aprons and short sleeves. If I could stay in this
climate a month I would get as strong as an ox, but we should
want our own party, we would have the horrors otherwise.
I have been a perfect wonder to myself to-day. We get our
first letters at Ilfracombe in two days. I sent the sheet of
colored coats of arms to little Laura and thought it would
interest her to keep the headings of these letters.

Hoping you are all well, Affly., M. D. R.

Royal Clarence Hotel,
Ilfracombe, North Devonshire,

July 2nd, 1897, Friday, 10.30 P. M.
Dear Cliff and Sam,

Your first letters reached us here and were as great a pleas-
ure as any enjoyed here. I was truly glad to hear you both
were well and happy and enjoying life in your own way. We
too have had a glorious series of surprises in the beautiful
places we have visited around the whole South coast of Eng-
land, to Land's End, even to the Cathedral towns and to Tin-
tagel and Clovelly.

Your Mother keeps me busy firing off photographs and
she is as nimble as a kitten climbing King Arthur's seat, 600 ft.
above the sea, on dizzy paths and over rocks and rejoicing in
long coaching tours. Cornwall and Devonshire are surprises
to us in every way and I can't begin to tell you about them,
but we will have lots to talk about on our return.

This place is said to be very interesting and we are to stay

here till Sunday and then Coach to Lynton, Tuesday to Bath

272

ENGLAND

and Wells and we ought to be in London by Friday. We will
be in London for a week or ten days, so letters written up
to the 4th of July will reach us at Morgan's.

The coast between Land's End and Minehead defies any
efforts to describe it. Tintagel I wrote from, but Ilfracombe
we didn't like, it was a sort of Atlantic City; people, like ants,
all over the hills, so we got to Lynton and stopped in the
most perfect Hotel and found the rocks and cliffs magnificent.
I feel now that we have seen something of English country

KING ARTHUR'S SEAT, TINTAGEL, CORNWALL

and know of no coast scenery to equal what we have been
through. We got our first letters at Ilfracombe and were so
thankful to know you are all well and that nothing has hap-
pened. We go to Bath to-morrow and spend Thursday there
and will be in London Friday, probably will try at the Metro-
pole first and then Victoria or Grand. We expect to go to
Glastonbury this p. m. and back to dinner. Your Mother
joins me in tenderest love and best wishes.

Your affectionate, F. H. R.

Clovelly is truly one of the most beautiful and romantic

spots on earth, and you must visit there some day.
18 273

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Valley of Rocks Hotel,

Lynton, North Devon.
July 4th, 1897, Sunday 9 P. M.
Dear Boys,

From the heading you see we arc In a lovely hotel almost
by ourselves, but with views and surroundings that are
beyond description for grandeur ot rocks, dizzy heights and ex-
quisite coloring. We left Clovelly Friday afternoon for Bidde-
ford, dined there and took the train to Barnstable and on to
Ufracombe, which we found to be a biggish place and with bad

THE WALK FROM LYNMOUTH TO LYXTON

luck we struck a forlorn hotel, altho several fine ones were here.

The views were splendid but we had enough of it by Satur-
day afternoon and took a carriage for this place, twenty miles
away, and here we are. We have gone to Lynmouth by an
inclined railway down 600 feet to the water's edge and then
walked back. This afternoon we drove many miles through
wonderful glens and skirted Exmoor to Lorna Doone's Valley
and saw so many interesting things I cannot describe them.

To-morrow at nine we coach 20 miles to Minehead, lunch
there and take train to Bath. This will take us out of the

274

ENGLAND

coast scenery and we shall not be sorry, for we have seen so
much our heads begin to whirl. In fact on the walk this after-
noon to the Valley ot Rocks along a very sharp declivity I
had to turn back I got so dizzy. Your Mother persisted and
described the rocks as wonderful.

But this the 4th of July, such a noisy day at home, was dis-
mal to us for we don't know a soul and other folks appear to
be in the same box and wander around like lost spirits. Your
Mother is just as keen for moving on and doing more travel-

GOING THROUGH LORNA DOONE VALLEY

ling as ever. We hope to be in London by Thursday at latest
and stay there a week or ten days and then go to the
Continent.

As we get no news here to-day I am impatient to hear of
the Boat Race yesterday and hope U. of P. won. Your Mother
joins in love to you.

Affectionately yrs,

F. H. R.

275

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Swan Hotel, Wells, Somerset.

July 6th, 1897.
Dear Boys,

I have written to you and Aunt Laura several times since
I began the enclosed letter at Exeter, which I have been carry-
ing around intending each day to finish it, but we have trav-
elled so rapidly that for days I couldn't get a moment to wTite.
01 course it w^as very delightful to travel by driving and we
have thoroughly enjoyed it, but after 10 days without any

DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT BATH

let up w^e both feel like getting to London and seeing people

and sleeping more than one or two nights in the same Hotel.

We were quite surprised last night when Basil A/liles and young

Harrison walked in at Bath.

Yesterday's journey was an exhausting one and w^e feel

like resting to-day. We left Lynton at 9 a. m. on the top of

a coach and came to Minehead through the Doone country

by Porlock and over Exmoor. We had a typical English

driver, full ot spirit and fun, told us stories in Devonshire

276

ENGLAND

dialect and amused us immensely. The only drawbacks were
clouds of dust. You can't imagine what sights we were when
we got to Minehead and the joy of going into a clean, cool
hotel to hnd lunch ready, but only 20 minutes to get it in and
get brushed and washed for the train. However we managed
it and after changing into three trams got here in time for 7
o'clock dinner, got a big comfortable room looking out on the
Cathedral and have been sightseeing all morning.

I wish I could give you some idea of the wonderful things

WELLS CATHEDRAL

I have seen. Clovelly is unique, nothing like it in the world,

and the most fantastic place you can imagine. It would be

just like a scene in a theatre, if it were not for the blue ocean

and old pier down at the bottom. We stayed at the New Inn

(no one knows how old it is) half-way down the street and it

was all I tould do to get down to it.

Our baggage was brought down on sledges which have

polished off the fine little cobble stones which pave the streets

so that it is hard to keep a footing. The street is about 8 ft.

277

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

>;--fev^--

AT CLOVELLY, CORNWALL

NEW INN. CLOVELLY
278

ENGLAND

wide and the houses are built on a level, each with its little
garden full of flowers enclosed with a railing and every window
gay with color. Our hotel had a piazza instead of garden on
which we sat and watched ever}'thing.

Excursions arrive by steamer and landing by little boats
on the beach, they swarmed all over the place thro the middle
of the day. The Hobby Drive is along the edge of the Cliff
3 miles, at least 800 or 900 above the sea, going through beauti-
ful trees and farms as dark as the \\ issahickon and ends at
the top of the village street. Even the sailors are dressed as
they were in Pinafore, exactly. An old one over 80 years be-
longed to our hotel and was very amusing.

Oxford, England, July 8, 1897.
Dear Cliff and Sam,

Here we are, though not on your Mother's schedule. She
consented to oblige me by coming here from Bath, it being
but little out of our way.

1 wrote you last, I think from Ilfracombe or Lynton. We
left there for Wells and stayed in Wells two nights and a day,
and saw the Cathedral, Bishops gardens and the luins of
Glastonbury. We left Wells yesterday early and went to
Bath, saw the Cathedral there and drove about the city and
your Mother bathed in the old Roman Baths like a loyal
archseologian as she is, and this morning we came here. I
soon walked her legs oft and those of a guide, took pictures of
many bits and now, 5 p. m., your Mother is gone to Christ
Church Cathedral to a service there. To-morrow we go to
see Blenheim Castle and leave late in the afternoon for Lon-
don, where we are to be lodged for a couple of weeks at the
Hotel Metropole.

So now you have a history of our itinerary up to date and
a little ahead.

We have been immensely favored by the weather during

our canter through Cornwall, Devonshire and Somersetshire,

Wiltshire, Hampshire and part of Dorsetshire, and we feel we

279

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

have a fair idea ol these parts of England. Of course we have
to depend on each other for company, for we fail to find any
congenial English or American travellers. How'ever, after to-
morrow we shall meet lots of familiar faces in London and later
on in France and Germany. With the Photos I have made
put into an album I will be fairly able to give you a good idea
of our journeys for I am incapable of writing my impressions,
they crowd so quickly on my mind.

HALL AT OXFORD

Oxford far exceeds my ideals, but I am confused with the
innumerable chapels in the colleges and commons halls and
exquisite architecture everywhere, altho all lifeless now as
there are no students about. To see the Deer in Magdalen
and the beautiful grounds and ffowers in Trinity and the
wonders of Christ Church College upsets one for the tameness
of U. of P. and other home Universities. So with love from
both of us and best wishes for your health and happiness,

Yr. affectionate, F. H. R.

280

ENGLAND

Hotel Metropole, London.
July nth, 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are in London! And enjoyed with great zest the
batch of letters awaiting us, telling of all your doings at home.
We had a most enjoyable visit to Oxford and Blenheim Palace
and came on with some acquaintances to London.

We find this hotel most enjoyable. Mactear and family

TRAFALGAR SQUARE AND THE HOTEL METROPOLE, LONDON

have been very attentive. They have cut out a lot of things
for us, among others a trip on the Thames to-day. They made
many inquiries about you both and seemed to remember
Cliff with pleasure.

At the pace we are going I think a week or ten days here
will be ample and we shall soon be moving on to Paris and
Hombourg. We are having delightful weather and moon-
light and we watch the myriads of hansoms and busses and
vehicles with the crowds of well-dressed folks and wonder
where they all come from. In fact I am more than usually im-

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

pressed with London's greatness, such buildings and such
evidences of immense wealth!

However, I don't want to be spoiled by it all and won't
get cleaned out by the extravagances rampant here.

We read in the papers of the hot wave prevailing in the
United States and hope both of you have the good sense to try
and make yourselves comfortable by seeking a cool climate.

Well I must run now and only thank you both for your

THE ETON-HARROW CRICKET MATCH

goodness in writing so fully and frequently and regret we can-
not reciprocate, but we are on the go constantly. We must
run for a train at Paddington so good-bye for to-day.

Affy, F. H. R.

I saw the Eton vs. Harrow match yesterday. A great
sight.

Hotel Metropole, London,
July I2th, 1897.
Dear Laura,

I take advantage of our first evening at home to write a
line. London tires one so it is hard to get up courage to write.

I don't remember where I last wrote from, but think it was

282

ENGLAND

Wells. From there we went to Bath and enjoyed the quaint
old town. I took a bath in the grand Pump Room built over
and around the old Roman Baths and enjoyed it, but it made
me ache like fury all night so I couldn't sleep.

Frank decided he wanted to see Oxford — so we went there
Thursday morning and Frank worked so hard at the colleges
he couldn't sleep all night and made up his mind that his
mind was failing him. However he recovered enough to go
out to Blenheim the next morning.

I love Oxford and Frank was delighted with it, also Blen-
heim was very fine, but not at all old-fashioned. The Duchess

of Marlborough was not there, so we got a look at the State

rooms or parlors, rather small ones, but beautifully furnished,

except the Library, which was very large and long, — white

carved wood walls and ceiling and Immense palms down the

middle of the room, and a fine organ. I took in all the details

I could but it Is very hard to remember seeing so much.

That same afternoon we came on to London. Frank had

written to Mr. Mactear and so after going to the Bank we

found him here and he had arranged for us to go to Earl's

Court to see the exhibition and dine with them at the Welcome

Club. The Gardens were illuminated and it was a beautiful

sight. Mrs. Mactear was very cordial and we had another

guest, Princess de Luslgnan, an elderly stout woman, but who

283

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

was very polite and an interesting talker. Air. M. in the mean-
time had arranged for a day on the River, the next day being
the greatest Sunday on the River.

They arranged with us to meet them at Paddington at
10 A. M. Imagine my surprise on arriving there to find that

"THAMES DAY" IN THE LOCK"

the whole world was intent on the same thing. Shoals of
gaily-dressed women arrived in hansoms and private carriages
and hampers of all sizes and descriptions. The men in striped
flannels and women almost universally dressed in white pique
skirts and chiiton blouses, any color from lemon to black.
I have never seen such a display of color.

There we met the Bisphams and David put his arm around
me and seemicd perfectly delighted to see us. We got into the
train and went as far as Taplow where we drove to the river
and went into the grounds of a delightful small Hotel called
Skindles. Mrs. M. tells me this garden has figured in many
plays. Launches and boats were fastened to the bank and the
river was alive.

ENGLAND

Mr. M. got a lovely Electric Launch and we sat up in
delightful wicker arm chairs and pretty soon got to a lock.
You know the river is only as wide as a canal and every little
distance the boats have to go through locks and the scene is
indescribable. The boats of all sizes blocked close together
and all alive with people, great silk cushions in the most brilliant

'•SURLEY HALL"

colors and added to the gay costumes of the women they made a
most beautiful sight. We passed Mr. W. Waldorf Astor's place,
Cliveden, going up, and stopped at Cookham for lunch.

The day was the most perfect you can imagine and neither
hot nor cold. We had lunch in a crowded room and gaily
decked in flowers, as flowers are everywhere in masses, on the
boats and in the gardens along shore. It was too beautiful
for w^ords. Leaving Cookham at once we wxnt further up
and then turned down the river and at about 6 o'clock stopped
at another exquisite place called Surley Hall for 5 o'clock Tea.
Here we had tea and cake and sandwiches with more crowds
and then down to Windsor where we left the launch, not being
in the least fatigued, and took the train to Richmond.

There we got into a carriage after looking at the Star and

285

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Garter, which is no longer swell, and drove through Richmond
Park to Sheen House, the former residence of the Count of
Paris and now turned into a private Club,

It was elegant to a degree, beautiful grounds and flowers,
liveried servants and beautiful tables. Here we had a fine
dinner with champagne. All the tables were filled with elegant
people and beautiful with flowers. After dinner we adjourned
into a large room, sort of gallery, where a band was playing
and people were having coffee and smoking. At about ten
we took another carriage and drove to town. There was not
much Sunday about this you can imagine, but as I had heard
and read so much about such experiences I felt that we must
not miss it. Aff. M. D. R.

T^ T July 12, 1897, London, 8.30 P. M.

Dear Laura, j ^ ^ yi^ ^ j

A'lany thanks for your letters which reached us. Here we
find the weather very cool and wear quite warm clothing.
Mary works like a beaver. The Mactears have been lavishly
hospitable to us, so much so I am scared to know how to re-
venge myself for their courtesy. I am being outfitted and as
soon as my clothes are ready we will leave for the Continent.
With best love, Affy, Frank

The Hotel Metropole, London,

T, T3 July i^^h, 1897.

Dear Boys, -^ ^

Here we are yet, much to my chagrin, waiting for my
clothes. We hope to get off Monday for the Continent, altho
undecided to what point we shall go. To-day I am going
with Mactear and Peggy to Henley to see the rowing and to-
morrow we take them to the Opera. What with shopping
and sightseeing we have passed the time reasonably fast, but
somehow I feel a nervous fatigue and will be glad to get to
some quiet place. Last night Mr. Elias* called on us and we
had a very enjoyable talk over old times. He is very little
changed in appearance since 1876 and hoped we would come
to Egypt. He spoke of you both most feelingly.

*Mr. Elias was Egyptian Commissioner in 1876 at the Centennial Exposition.

286

ENGLAND

Dr. Messel took me to his works and I was much impressed
with the way he conducts them.

The weather here is like May with us and the sun shines
each day. We have had no rain and no fog and London is
as clear as Philadelphia.

Your Mother begins to feel just a little fatigued and I
fancy finds me a rather dull comrade.

What a great roaring bustling place London is! I always
knew it was big but never realized before how immense it is!

I suppose the hot weather at home has warned you to get
in the shade at some cool resort and endeavor to keep cool
and take the world easy.

What our future journeys will be I don't know beyond a
longer stay at Hombourg and a visit to Adelmann. While
at Hombourg I hope to run over to Wiesbaden, to Wurzburg
and Tubingen and possibly Munich to revisit my residences
in 1867. I tried to get passage by the St. Paul in September,
but all good places were taken and I shall have to look out
later and take my chances.

I appreciate now the difficulty of letter writing at this
end, for it is hard to collect one's thoughts or write anything
worth reading. W^ith heaps of love to both of you, I am,

Your affectionate, F. H. R.

The Hotel Metropole,
Dear Laura, London, Saturday, 17th, 1897.

As I did not feel well enough to get up early and the shopr
all close at noon, I concluded not to go out. We are going to
the Opera to-night and will hear Eames in the "Nozze di
Figaro." We take the Mactears with us and will have supper
at the Savoy Restaurant afterwards. Frank went with Mr.
M. and his daughter to Henley Regatta yesterday and got
back at 1 1 P. M. I was alone and thought I would accomplish
some shopping but I find I simply am not equal to it.

There is such a horrid smell of pitch from the street pave-
ments brought out by the hot sun and the stores so crowded

287

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and hot that I forget what I came for and feel my head all
queer. The hot and stuffy city is no place for me and we both
feel anxious to get away, but cannot get oif until Tuesday
morning on account of Frank's clothing.

The jewelry here is very attractive but I don't want to
get much before looking in Paris. Lena and Betty are visit-
ing Scotland near Aberdeen and are having a fine time. They
will perhaps join us at Hombourg. We had the pleasure of one
hour with Elias night before last. He had written to Ilfracombe
to tell us he had delayed starting for Scotland asking for our

■^.

HEXLEY REGATTA

address and he only got it last night. Then he wrote again to
the Banker saying he would leave Friday and could he see us
and I sent a messenger boy at once. He looks the same as ever,
perhaps a little older, and said it w^as the first time he had
laughed since he came to London, and w^e all regretted this
whole week we might have been going about together.

I had begged Frank to see him when we first came, but he
said Oh ! of course he was gone. I took a cab in the afternoon to

ENGLAND

return the Bisphams call, as it was their day at home, and
found they had gone to the Regatta. I almost fainted with
the heat and the sun in my eyes all the way. I saw plenty
of fine carriages and a great show of color, but very few pretty
wbmen or toilets. I bought some beautiful photographs so
I shall have an album of English Cathedrals and of the West
Coast. After I got back I sat until 7.30 in the square hall
watching the people arrive and go out for dinner. All the
women in low necked dresses and entire arm exposed. An
Indian Prince is in the hotel, is very tall with big beard and
an immense turban with tails hanging down from it, long
lanky legs with skin tight trousers of ordinary tan mixture
and a coat of same with tight belt and funny pointed shoes.

Then I saw another immense man in full uniform, some
Oriental who was going out to dinner, but as he wore a black
ulster all over him I couldn't see much. The swellest-looking
man had one man and three ladies to dinner and all fine look-
ing. There are more English here than Americans and some
of the worst frights I have ever seen in my life.

I saw the Parisian Diamond store where the things were
perfectly beautiful, but almost as dear as the real. A hair
ornament mounted on shell hair pin from 50 to 100 dollars,
but the buckles were exquisite for ^15 to ^20 and a turtle of
green stones and brilliants, 20 or 25 dollars. I thought best
to see what the French prices were, as if I come back here I
can get things then. I think I like the Liberty jewelry which
is curious and real of its kind.

I am disappointed at not being able to go about more and
expect it will be the same in Paris. While I was on the west
coast in the fresh bracing air I could do so much, and then the
nights were quiet and restful, but here the bad air and noise
affect my head and I just have to leave the shops after an hour
or more. The thing we have enjoyed most was a ride on top
of an omnibus which we took unexpectedly down the Strand,
Chancery Lane, past Lincoln Inn and High Holborn with one
block of old timbered houses, one of the last bits of old Lon-
19 289

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

don, through IsHnglon and the Angel Inn and the house where
Sir Walter Raleigh lived, which was told us by the bus driver.
The old furniture and silver almost drive me wild and to
feel that I cannot get to them, ior everything is so scattered
that you cannot get about unless you have weeks. I ha'C^e
about made up my mind that no one must expect anything of
me, that I cannot travel and shop too, it is too much effort. I

ox THE OMNIBUS, LONDON

can't seem to decide on things and my only way is to go to
one place and let them furnish everything. I worry and stew
to try and get the right thing and it isn't worth while.

We went to see Irving and Terry Wednesday night. Terry
was sick but the woman who took her place was fine, and it
didn't seem it could be better played. The play was fine but
the audience was ugly and the house dark and gloomy, and
you pay 3^ dollars for what you pay i>^ or 2 at home. No
wonder for the theatres are so small. I must stop, it is going
to rain and I hear that the weather will change and only hope
for decent weather to cross the channel. Love to all,

AflFy., M. D. R.

2go

ENGLAND

The Hotel Metropole,
My Dear Boys, London, Sunday, July i8, 1897.

Here we are still and with little hope of getting away be-
fore Tuesday and then only if your Mother gets over one of
her headaches. She wants to go on, is thoroughly sated with
London and its extravagant prices. The weather is lovely.
The present intention is to go to Ostend, Bruges, Liege, Brus-
sels, Cologne and on to Hombourg, where we hope to be about

HENLEY REGATTA

the 25th or 27th of July and stay a couple of weeks. We thus
avoid Paris and will have to let our mail be sent after us.

I can only pray that all goes well with you at home. We
read of the hot wave and wondered what you did to keep
comfortable.

I wrote you of my invitation to Henley. Mactear and
Daughter took me, but your Mother had a lonely day at the
hotel. At Henley we were entertained by a Mr. Jamison,
who had rented a house for the week and knew everything of
interest and piloted us about. The day was warm for here
but this did not prevent myriads of well-dressed people being
there in boats of every description. We were in a punt, a sort of

291

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

flat-bottomed scow, with comfortable seats on the bottom and
quantities of cushions and propelled either by paddles or a pole.

The river was fairly jammed full of boats, in fact one could
step from boat to boat for a mile. The boats kept jamming
each other, but everybody was most good natured and little
interest taken in the racing. When a race was on the police
boats warned people to get out of the track and every one did
so with avidity. It was a marvelous kaleidoscopic picture
of bright colors with beautiful faces and handsome men in
boating clothes. At night there was an illumination and fire-
works but I did not stay, not wishing to leave your Mother
alone. I took a lot of Photos and hope to be able to show you
the nature of the event.

Yesterday was a sort of "dies non." Banker, Tailor and
Hotel and trying to make up our minds for the journey to the
continent. At night we took the Mactears to the Opera, a
rather formidable undertaking here, and then to late supper
at the Savoy.

One-third of our time Is up and I have as yet not been able
to get my return passage by the American Line. I think it
very possible we may come back via Havre, either by a North
German or French Liner. With love from both of us,

AflFy., F. H. R.

Hotel Metropole,
London, July 20th, 1897.
Dear Boys, Tuesday.

Here we are starting for Paris. Your Mother gave up
going to Belgium, so we hope to get away this morning to
France. I am not a bit sorry to get out of London, it Is such
a big noisy, busy place, and one feels lost. The weather Is
cool compared to Philadelphia and to-day is overcast and no
wind, so I hope we shall have a nice run over the Channel
and on to Paris. I will cable you from Paris, probably. So
with best love and wishes to you.

As ever Your Affectionate, F. H. R.

FRANCE

Paris, July 2ist, 1897.
Dear Boys,

Here we are at last, glad to be out of England and delighted
with our first impressions of Paris and I have just received

CROSSING FROM FOLKESTONE TO BOULOGNE

your batch of letters sent to Paris, Of course we are greatly
satisfied to know of your welfare and contentment.

We crossed yesterday from Folkestone to Boulogne and the

Channel was as smooth as glass and the weather charming.

293

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We found good rooms at the Hotel Norniandle and splendid
food. You can imagine your Mother's delight at finding Mrs.
W. at the Hotel Jardin, opposite the Gardens of the Louvre.
We sat out on the balcony of the top story there with the
beautiful vista in front and it was simply delicious after the
noise of London.

We have met quite a number of acquaintances already
and shall be contented here for the week we remain. Next
week we go on to Hombourg and remain there for two or three
weeks and hope to get a visit to Count Adelmann.

Paris is simply delicious after the existence in England,
there the food was tedious and expensive and people stiifer
than ramrods, but it was interesting. Here everyone seems
good natured and the streets and buildings are an unending
pleasure.

Affectionately, F. H. R.

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, 25 de Juillet, 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are in Paris still but are going to-day to Brussels
en route to Hombourg. It is pretty hot to-day but not un-
bearable, and I fear we shall hardly find ourselves as comfort-
able elsewhere. This Hotel is very quiet but well kept with
good attendance and. dainty food. We got here Tuesday,
dined and strolled out to the Jardin des Tuilleries. Your
Mother thought of Mrs. W., inquired at her Hotel and found
to her delight she was not only in Paris but in her apartment,
so up we went to the top of one of those big houses facing the
Tuilleries gardens, to find a warm reception and such a beau-
tiful view.

Your Mother has therefore been very happy with Mrs. W.,

and I have wandered around pretty much alone. Thursday

I went out to Versailles and found old Mr. Mourge (90 years

old!) and Mr. Alfred Durand, and they gave me a warm

reception, Mourge kissing me on both cheeks. It was a

294

FRANCE

most delightful glimpse of real French existence, a droll sort of
house with beautiful garden filled with blooming flowers. Old
Mourge was deaf as a post so to amuse me he got a whistle
and some bread crumbs and when he blew his whistle myriads
of sparrows came and crowded around him. It was a picture
indeed. I fired off a plate at him but don't know if I will get
anything.

Yesterday your Mother and I had our star excursion to
Fontainebleau and Barbizon, and while the weather was hot

FONTAINEBLEAU: THL

L inc low .\ AND THE FOREST

we enjoyed the trip greatly. The Palace is marvelously pre-
served. The park covers 35,000 acres, and as well kept as a
garden. Barbizon is where quantities of painters have their
places and make sketches.

We drove for hours through the forest and saw the trees
by all lights and now shall have a more tender appreciation
of the pictures of the Barbizon school.

To-day we are off to Brussels, finding the journey to Frank-
fort and Hombourg no longer than by Strasbourg and giving
us a chance to see Belgium, Cologne and the Rhine. We will

295

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

arrive in Hombourg on Wednesday and remain there, your
Mother thinks, two or three weeks. I have written Count
Adelmann but thus far have no response, if I don't hear soon
I will write to him again for I know he wants us to visit him.

We expect to meet all our folks later on in Hombourg and
hope to hear they are having an enjoyable time.

Now to the most important thing. We took passage yes-
terday on the "Iburaine," the finest of the French Line, for
September 215th for New York, so you will not see us before
the first of October. Your Mother did not want to travel
back to London and Southampton and so I had to give up
my hope of going home on the St. Paul, as we had come.

Your Mother unloads trunks and then has to spend hours
packing them again.

As ever yr. affectionate, F. H. R.

GERMANY

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Wednesday, July 28th, 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are at last, just this moment arrived and sorry
not to have any mail. We left Paris on Sunday and stayed

HOTEL VICTORIA, HOMBOURG (ON THE LEFT)

in Brussels until yesterday morning and then came on to
Cologne and spent last night there, meeting young Charles
Harrison. This morning it rained hard while we were in the
train coming up the Rhine to Frankfort and here.

We had a scare at Frankfort. Our luggage was checked

297

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to Nuremberg by mistake and somebody else's checked for
Frankfort instead of ours. By the best of hick the porter we
took tracked ours up and by dint of hard running I succeeded
in inducing the baggage man on the train to Nuremberg to
let me haul ours out just as the train was leaving Frankfort.
You can imagine your mother's discomfort for the time, and
what she would have thought had it gone on.

My impressions of Germany have vanished in the immense
changes everywhere apparent. I hope I shall like Hombourg.

Your Mother seems bent on remaining here two or three
weeks and we hope soon to have the other members of the
family with us. Your Mother, no doubt, will write you par-
ticulars of our doings and I shall write too, as soon as I am
settled and cleaned up. So with best love and best wishes
from both of us.

Believe me your affectionate, F. H. R.

Royal Victoria Hotel,
Hombourg, July 30th, 1897.
Dear Laura,

We have just come back from our first morning walk and
drink at the Springs, have had our breakfast and I have time
to write before my bath. It was lovely at the Springs, sweet
with new mown hay and flowers and gay music, but it lacks
the festive appearance it had before when the Prince of Wales
was here. I believe I have not written you since the first
night in Paris. I went to Paquin and Doucet. Of course the
new models were not in. We drove in the Champs Elysees
and Bois, then F. and I went to the Marlngny and saw a
beautiful ballet. The whole Chinese legation was there.

Then we spent a day at Fontainebleau, first the Chateau,
which is perfectly beautiful, and in Marie Antoinette's finest
room I found my parlor side gas fixtures, much to my delight.
Then we drove through the Forest, saw the Gorge Franchard
which is really remarkable, and the great trees Jupiter and

Pharamond, then to the Gorge Apremont, caused by some

298

GERA4ANY

terrible cataclysm thousands of years ago, and dined at Bar-
bizon, identified as the origin of the Barbizon school of paint-
ing, an ideal spot on the edge of the Forest, then we drove
back in the twilight and took train to town and rode back on
top of an omnibus in Paris down the Rue Rivoli and a man
who said he was a cook explained everything we passed,
through the very heart of old Paris.

We left in the afternoon of the next day for Brussels
Hotel Bellevue, superb, and found Bellamy Storer had left

THEATRE MARIGNY, AVENUE BOIS DE BOULOGNE, PARIS

that very morning for Spa. ; we were so sorry to miss him. That
evening we went out through a beautiful park back of the
Hotel to the Ministry of Finance, &c., a palace all illuminated
and the whole city was illuminated, and took a trolley out
to the Exposition, which entered the grounds and made a
circuit showing everything. The next day we spent the morn-
ing in a carriage seeing the town. The old part is so interesting
and the new part most impressive — it is certainly a beautiful
place and puts our towns to shame. In the afternoon we went
out to the Fair, but were not impressed as after Chicago such

a thing seems tame.

299

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

FONTAINEBLEAU

DOOR AT FONTAINEBLEAU

300

GERAIANY

We left the next morning for Cologne. Met delightful
English women on the train who raved over David Bispham
and Emma Eames, but we didn't find out their names.

We spent the late afternoon looking at the Cathedral.
They have had the good sense to preserve the old Roman re-
mains and the city gates with their beautiful pointed towers
though they have torn down many of the old streets. After
dinner we went in a boat on the river to a beer garden,
where there was music and from the river the Cathedral is

BARBIZON

overwhelming, it seems suspended in the air. It is the most

graceful thing in the world. Its wonderful size cannot be

appreciated any more than Niagara.

From Cologne, where it rained hard in the night, we came

on to Frankfort, following the Rhine closely, and it seemed

more beautiful than ever. If I live and can ride I want to

bring my wheel over here and ride on that perfect and level

road along the Rhine from Coblentz to Rudesheim; perfectly

level with those enchanting hills and castles and ruins always

in view and fascinating and quaint old towns whenever you

want to stop.

301

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We arrived here at 3.30 and found a lovely room with bal-
cony on the Garden. The Hotel has changed hands and they
have enclosed part of the garden into an eating place, so you
can no longer eat in the garden and it is not half as gay. Mrs.
Learning danced a great deal. She is just my age and looked
so young and slender and perfectly beautiful. There wasn't
any one to compare with her.

We shall go from here to Sigmaringen to see the Adelmanns.

With love to all and hoping to hear from you soon, as we
have had nothing for a week, Aff'ly, M. D. R.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Monday, Aug. 2nd, 1897.
Dear Cliff,

Your welcome letter of the 20th ult. from Biddeford Pool
came and gave us much pleasure. We are glad you have left

FRESE.XIUS LABORATORY, WIESBADEX

hot Philadelphia for the cool breezes of New England. I am

glad to know you have attended carefully to my business

matters and paid the servants.

302

. GERMANY

We are now in our 6th day here and must remain eight
days longer if your Mother persists in taking the baths, etc.
This Hotel is crowded with English people, few Americans.

Saturday I took a run to Wiesbaden and had a hearty
reception from the sons of Prof. Fresenius, drove all over the
town and enjoyed it all, but it is immensely changed since
my time there in 1867.

Yesterday we had a quiet day of it and this morning as
usual went bright and early to drink the waters and at 11
both of us took the baths.

We have had two pressing letters from the Adelmanns ask-
ing us to come there and I am impatient to get there. Your
Mother paid another visit to the Doctor and now he orders
her to take the water in her bed instead of the pleasant walk
to the Springs. My idea is she would be much better off to
let the water alone but she cannot be convinced of that.

I fancy Hombourg is a good deal as you remember it and
the weather is charmingly clear and cool. We have just come
back from the drive to the Tannen Baiime, where your Mother

303

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

says you once drove with her. It certainly is a drive typically
German in character.

On the 4th of September the Emperor is to have a great
review of 40,000 soldiers here, so the authorities are cleaning
up the roads and woods and with the splendid crops now being
gathered the country is most interesting. Your Mother is
always planning and attempting but her strength soon gives
out and she easily becomes fatigued.

We expect now to come home on the French Steamer
Touraine from Havre, sailing on the 25th of September, and
with good luck should reach New York about the 2nd or
3rd of October. Your Mother joins me in best love to you both.

Affectionately, F. H. R.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Monday, August 2nd, 1897.
Dear Sam,

Thanks for your letter of the i8th of July telling us of the
delightful weather in Jamestown.

We have been here in Hombourg since last Wednesday
afternoon and your Mother is drinking the waters and taking
the baths. She seems to enjoy it all very much and I hope
will be greatly benefited. I ran off last Saturday for a visit
to Wiesbaden, my old stamping ground, and had an enjoyable
time there, though I was quite alone and no one to talk to.

To-day we took a beautiful drive through the forest and
enjoyed it greatly. We usually take breakfast and lunch at
the Hotel and wander for dinner. Last Friday we dined at
the Kursaal and saw beautiful fireworks and illuminations.
You would be interested to see the life here, lots of tennis,
golf, etc., but few young folks, mostly dried up English tabbies
who come for the waters.

We have had two letters from the Adelmanns who are an-
ticipating our visit, but your Mother insists on remaining
here until her 24 days are up and I must abide by it, though
I would greatly prefer to go on. We shall probably be in

304

GERMANY

Paris by the 5th of September and remain there until the 23rd
and then go on to Havre for a day or two to see the Thackaras,
and sail on the 25th of September.

Affectionately, F. H. R.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Friday, Aug. 6th, 1897.
Dear Sam,

Here we are still, your mother insisting on taking the baths
and drinking the water and enjoying glimpses of the fine folks
who crowd the Hotels and Casino. We have quite a Phila-
delphia colony and last night ten of us dined together at the
Kursaal. After the dinner all hands went to the dance in the
Ball room, even your Mother taking a dance. Your Mother
took a walk this morning with Mrs. Geo. W. Childs, and they
are becoming quite chummy.

I fancy you would hardly enjoy the place, although the
gardens and park are beautiful and the surrounding moun-
tains most romantic. We drove the other day to the Roman
Camp on top of one of the mountains, the Saalburg, where the
Romans camped for 200 years, and I got a fragment of a vase
that a man dug up in our presence. The Camp has been
studied and partly restored and the statues and bronzes that
were excavated are in a museum here. The weather is too
warm to take much exercise by day time but the nights are
very pleasant and we sit out till late and sleep like tops.

Your Mother became so weary by early rising and the
walk to the Springs that the Doctor told her to take the waters
in bed, which suits her much better. We hope to get off next
week, at least I do, to visit the Adelmanns and I look to that
visit as the most enjoyable of our experiences.

Your letters give us much pleasure.

I hope to hear you joined the Yacht Club cruise either at
New Haven or New London and sailed with them to New-
port. However, you no doubt consulted your own comfort
in the matter. Affectionately, F. H. R.

20 305

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Hombourg, Hotel Victoria,

Aug. 6th, 1897.
Dear Laura and Sam,

I don't seem to be able to write more than once a week,
what with drinking the waters and taking baths and eating
and resting. The first few days I went to the Springs and took
the water before breakfast, being away an hour, and I£felt
so exhausted that I went to the Doctor and he said it would

"THE SCHLOSS," HOMBOURG

never do, that my pulse was very feeble and to have the water

sent up and take the 3 glasses before getting up. So now I

feel better and spend the rest of the morning until I go to my

bath, walking about.

Frank went to Wiesbaden Saturday to see the Fresenius'

and didn't get back until bedtime. I saw him speak to some

familiar-looking people and it was Cynthia Yeatman and

her aunt. She had lots to tell about Hugh Campbell and

it seems Mrs. Mackay was at the same Hotel, but left sud-

306

GERMANY

denly, as my Doctor Noeber found she had something which
required operating.

Sunday we attended church service in the old Schloss
(where the Empress Frederick used to Hve) and now is being
renovated for the Emperor. We were about the last people
admitted to the State Rooms.

There is to be a great review here in September. Miss
Yeatman is coming back for it, but Frank doesn't seem to
care about it. We dined on the Kurhaus Terrace last night
and went into the Hop and I danced. There was a private
ball upstairs Tuesday. People arriving every day and the
place is full. I love the old town, care nothing for the fashion-
able side of it.

The castle garden is beautiful and I have been there every
morning. We dined here last evening as it poured rain until
late and then went up to the Kurhaus and sat on the Terrace.
On Friday nights there are two bands, one military at one
side and the regular orchestra at the other, and the fountain
illuminated. It is now crowded here and I don't know what
it will be when the Prince of Wales comes.

We are thinking of going, after we leave the Adelmanns,
into France instead of Switzerland, into the Vosges Mts. It
seems more sensible instead of going so far away as Munich
and Innsbruck to keep in the direction of Paris — besides
going to new scenes where the whole world doesn't go. The)^ say
Switzerland is just filled with Americans and as I have been
there so many times it would be nice to see something new.

We shall probably be in Paris from Sept. 5th to 23 rd and
go on to Havre stopping at Rouen for a day. We left our
trunks at the Normandy so as to go back there and it was the
easiest way to manage. It is such a relief not to have to go
to London and then to Southampton or Liverpool. Then we
shall be in New York the next Saturday morning and perhaps
Friday night, according to the weather.

Love to all.

Aifectionately, M. D. R.

307

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

August 7th, 1897.
Dear Cliff,

Doubtless \'ou are still at North East Harbor enjoying
the fresh sea breezes and having a good time. Here we have
quite a colony of Philadelphians.

Your Mother seems perfectly contented here.

Owing to the scare here over the miseries of the new Tariff
law I shall make few or no purchases on this side and prefer
to give you something when I get back to suit you.

We hope to get off to the Adelmanns at the end of next
week, although your Mother is quite desirous to remain here.
I cannot stand this kind of a loafing existence, especially as I
must always be within hailing distance of your Mother.

We both keep wonderfully well, go to bed early and get
up late and cannot eat the greasy food here, so I fancy this
may account for our good condition.

We are always thinking of you and Sam and hoping you
are enjoying good health, good company, and having lots
of fun before starting in on serious work at the law. W ith
our best love and my tender expression of regard,

Affy., F. H. R.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Tuesday, Aug. 9th, 1897.
Dear Clifford and Sam,

Your Mother keeps well and just as contented as ever
with this place. We have had a couple of days of rainy weather
and the hours seemed like days to me.

Last night Uncle Joe and Aunt Fanny arrived from Ham-
burg, so we now have quite a colony. Lina and Betty are at
Riechelmann's, Uncle Joe at Ritter's Hotel and we are here,
so I fancy we will berunningaftereach other pretty constantly.
Our plans are, as far as we are able to make plans, to go
to Adelmann the end of this week via the Black Forest, partly

by train and partly by Coach, the young Count to meet us

308

GERMANY

part way and act as guide. How long we remain in Sigmarin-
gen I don't know, but I do hope four or five days, and thence
either to Switzerland and eventually to the Vosges Moun-
tains in Eastern France and gradually back to Paris where
we are to be about the 5th of September at the Hotel
Normandy.

I fancy by the time this reaches Philadelphia you will
have returned from North East Harbor after an enjoyable
stop there. If the weather is very hot in town you would do
well to take a room at Devon Inn or some surburban place
where you would have nice company and plenty of golf. This
would make time pass agreeably to you.

Sam didn't go to meet the Corinthian Yacht Club and gave
as a reason the prevalence of a heavy Nor'easter! I do
hope the cruise was a success, for all hands had taken so much
trouble to make it a success.

Your Mother sends, with me, love and tender remem-
brances and wishes for your happiness

As ever, affectionately, F. H. R.

Hombourg, Aug. nth, 1897.
Dear Clifford,

Just five years ago (1892) since we were here together,
and every day I think how much more you would have en-
joyed it this time. We dine very often at the Kurhaus and at
present it is crowded there every night. Yesterday afternoon
Lina and Betty, Fanny and Evelyn Howell and her two uncles
started on bicycles for the Tannenwald. Your Uncle Joe,
Aunt Fanny, your Father and myself in a carriage. We went
ahead and stopped at the first turn and then drove back to
find them. The two uncles had turned back in despair as their
bicycles were too low for them, little Fanny went all the way
back and changed hers. Evelyn Howell came to grief with
her dress, which had white silk rufiles inside and she tore
them out and left them along the road. Betty and Fanny got
lost and went to the little Tannenwald. After we had been

309

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

there more than half an hour Lina and Evelyn arrived blow-
ing and puffing, and a quarter of an hour later Betty and
Fanny. We had more fun than enough.

\\ hen we got to the Yagd house the gardens were full
of people taking coffee. The others came straight home down
hill. Betty and Fanny collided and fell in a gutter, but
otherwise unhurt. Then we drove through the Pines and
made a circle and came back in a different way, a beautiful
drive. I was dying to go on a wheel, but they are heavy and
it was up hill, and the water is playing havoc with me so I
thought it best not to go.

We are now corresponding vigorously with the Adelmanns
and have about decided to leave here Saturday, 14th, and
arrive at Triberg that night, leave there the next afternoon
and arrive that eve at Sigmaringen. We expect to drive
from Hausach to Triberg. From Sigmaringen we have no plans.
But your Father says he wants to go to Munich, so if we go
there I think we will probably go on to Innsbruck and drive
to Cortina and some of the places near by.

I suppose you know we have taken staterooms on the
Touraine 25th of Sept., and will sail from Havre, stopping at
Rouen over one night. We expect to be in Paris the 4th of
Sept., so we will have almost 3 weeks in Paris. I bought heavy
silk stockings for you and Sam in London and paid over $z
a pair for them, so you see they were not cheap. I shall bring
you both a toilet set of ebony with silver initials and I am
afraid that must be all.

Of course as I am here, on this side of the water, I would
rather stay, but your Father is crazy to get home. I am too
tired to write much while travelling and this climate when
you take the water makes you feel good for nothing. No
doubt a change will be better. I am takingthecure religiously.
I must stop to go out with Aunt Fanny, so good-bye.
With much love,

Your aflf., M. D. R.

310

GERMANY

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

Friday, Aug. 13th, 1897.
Dear Sam,

To-day I got the Ledger with the account of the Corin-
thian Cruise. What a rough time they did have! I am glad
now you had the good sense to stay away. Your Mother has
at last agreed to quit Hombourg, so to-morrow we start at
9 A. M. for Frankfurt, Heidelberg and the Black Forest, and
arrive on Sunday evening at Sigmaringen for a stay of several
days with Count Adelmann. She is sorry to leave here now
Uncle Joe and Aunt Fanny and Lina and Betty are here. I
am perfectly satisfied to go.

To-night we are to dine at the Kursaal where there will
be splendid fireworks and a dance and another dance at our
Hotel under the patronage of the Duke of Cambridge. Your
Mother seems perfectly contented here and enjoys the flutter
of fine folks that crowd the place. I wander around when
not doing errands for her, sit at the Tennis Courts or make
excursions into the Taunus Mountains.

Beau Thomson left this morning for Bremen and will be
very much missed here. He has been most attentive to all
of us and we enjoyed seeing him play Tennis.

We have had cloudy weather for a few days but to-day
is like a typical May day with us and most enjoyable. I only
hope we shall have as good weather for our Black Forest trip.

Write me what your plans are about getting the Acme
back to Philadelphia and if you contemplate entering the
Law School this Autumn.

So good-bye and with our united love

Your aff, F. H. R.

Sigmaringen, Thurs. Aug. 19th 1897.

Dear Cliff and Sam:

Here we are quartered in Graf Adelmann's house and have
been since last Sunday night, but on the run every minute
with some delightful occupation or engagement and only

311

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

have had this chance to write as it is pouring rain. Your letter
of the 30th July from North East Harbor found us here, and
Sam's of 1st and 3rd of August. We were delighted to know
you were both well and happy and only regret you are not
here to enjoy with us the delights of this historical region.

ON THE DANUBE AT SIGMARINGEN

We are on the Danube in a country dotted everywhere with
castles and we have been entertained in several and this even-
ing we are formally invited to tea with the Furst (Prince).*
You can imagine our perturbation at such an undertaking.

*Prince Leopold, Sigmaringen, about whose nomination for King of Spain, in 1870,
the Franco-Prussian War was forced. Count Adelmann is his Hof Kammer President and
hence the invitation to dinner. The Prince died in Berlin later while attending the wed-
ding of the Crown Prince of Germany. His brother was King of Roumania, and his son
is now King of that country (1916), the former king having no heir.

31-

GERMANY

Friday, Aug. 20th.
As expected at 6 last evening two carriages came from the
Summer Palace for us. Your Mother, Countess Adelmann
and Graf Raban went in one and Graf and I in the other. It

. ScbloB Siamaringc

rained pitchforks, so we snuggled in to keep dry, for a drive
of about 5 miles. We drove up to the palace and found the
Hof (court) Marshal waiting for us and about a dozen lackeys.
Our wraps were soon off and we went through a series of rooms

313

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to a large reception room, where I was introduced to one or
two gentlemen and the Priest when a gentleman greeted me
in a most friendly manner and I talked some minutes with him
before I knew I was talking to the Prince of Hohenzollern
Sigmaringen, Cousin of the Emperor William and probably
the wealthiest prince in Europe! a most amiable, intelligent,,
and unpretending man, a good edition in appearance and size
of Sterling, w4th the same nervous energy; afterward the
three ladies of the Court came in and I was introduced.
When your Mother and Countess Adelmann came in all
the men were presented and the Hof Marshal quietly told
each one where to sit at the dinner table. To my sur-
prise your Mother was taken to table by and sat on the
right of the Prince, Grafin Adelmann on his left and I to
her left, etc., your Mother being the guest of honor. Well
you can imagine her sensations, first an all-gone feeling and
then the pride of the Richardsons and at last a feeling of
confidence and she kept the Prince and table in good spirits.

The table fixins she will no doubt describe, altho they were
not half as showy as your Mother's, yet nice. There w^ere
lots of servants and two or three sorts of wine. The Prince
drank to my health and then the Hof Marshal and by the
time the meal was over we felt as if we could eat with anybody,
however grand.

After dinner we went to a tenpin alley, the ladies going
in an antique Sedan Chair and the men skipping between the
rain drops. Once inside the Bowling place cigars were lighted
by the men and cigarettes by the ladies. I had several long
talks with the Prince and yourMother sat with him the whole
evening, the centre of all observers. He thanked us for coming
and said he was delighted to have met us.

About 10.30 we started for town through the rain and after
a cup of tea at Adelmann's we went to bed at midnight. Your
Mother to dream of Princes and palaces, etc. The Adelmanns
have been simply unending in their kindness to us. Graf
Raban is a lovely fellow, studying law, has been in Leipsic

314

GERMANY

but goes to Berlin this winter. His elder brother is in Mar-
gate, has throat trouble. The daughter Mechtilde is a sweet
blonde girl, charming and chubby and the Countess is fine
looking and a splendid hostess.

//^Z^C<.<y^

<C^c

^f'f^^vU'

Adelmann is full of fun altho he is a very busy man, having
charge of all of the Estates of the Furst, here, in Holland,
Pomerania, Austria and other places. We are to be here

315

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

till Tuesday when wc take Raban with us to Munich and
Augsburg and thence to Adelmann's own Castle Hohcnstadt
for two da}'s and then we will work our way to Paris, to be
there about the 5th of Sept. It would take many pages to
give }'Ou a faint idea of all we have seen and done here, the
castles we have visited, the people we have met and of the
beautiful things we have seen.

Adelmann* is related to the very highest nobility around
and is welcomed everywhere and entertains a great deal. He
showed us his book in which all visitors sign their names and
among them were many royal persons. The sun is shining
again and I have warm clothing on but I feel cold.

Well I must close now, hoping to have letters from you
to-day. With love to both of you,

Affy., F. H. R.

Sigmaringen, August 20, 1897.
Dear Laura,

How can I ever begin, there is so much to tell! We left
Frankfurt last Saturday morning and came down through
Heidelberg to Hausach in the Black Forest, where young
Adelmann met us and we drove by carriage to Triberg, a most
beautiful place, and spent the night there. We found Dr. and
Airs. Wm. White and young Harrison, and Dr. Stengel there
bicycling through that part of the country and old Mrs. Geo.
W. Biddle at the Hotel.

The next morning Raban and I went shopping and found
peasant bonnets and some little dolls, as we waited for the
hotel omnibus to come along, and then who should appear
but Graf Adelmann. He came all the way from Sigmaringen
to meet us; it took us all the rest of the day till 5 o'clock to get
to Sigmaringen, as it is a roundabout way.

*Graf Adelmann was a "Corps Brother" of mine in 1869-1870 at Tiibingen Univer-
sity, at the time the present King of Wurtemberg was a member. Our friendship there
was renewed in 1893 when Adelmann came to the United States as a judge at the Chicago
Exposition and visited us in Philadelphia and Jamestown. His letters "62 Days Among
the Yankees " went to 14 editions.

316

GERMANY

The Countess met us at the station and we had afterward
a most delicious dinner with a souffle au chocolat for dessert.
This is their town house and is a fine big house with beautiful
garden opening into the gardens of the town house of the
Prince of Hohenzollern, cousin of the Kaiser, and is beauti-
fully furnished like a museum.' My bed room has an entire
set of old Empire furniture, perfect sofa, bed, wardrobe, and
the reception room is all old Louis XV and beautiful portraits
everywhere, coats of arms, &c., which it will take me weeks
to tell you about.

BICYCLE PARTY AT TRIBERG

The first morning we had flannel cakes, better than any
we ever have — yesterday green corn out of their garden.
They also have electric light everywhere and a nice bathroom.
They are certainly the most hospitable people I ever met and
devote themselves to our pleasure. The first day, Monday,
we went to the Museum in the Royal Chateau and in the after-
noon drove to the Royal country house, through the park of
pine trees, filled with deer, exquisite flower gardens and arbors
and the house very low and old fashioned. The Prince and
wife were at Scheveningen in Holland but were to return next
day. She was an Infanta of Portugal and an invalid at present.

317

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Little did I think I would be the guest of honor at a Royal
residence and taken in to supper on the arm of the Prince,
as I was last night, but of that later. Tuesday morning we
went through the Schloss, their ancient residence perched
high on great rocks hanging over the Danube, and in the after-
noon we went to see a monastery at Beuron, through magnifi-
cent rock scenery along the Danube, This monastery is the
headquarters of the Benedictines in Germany and we got there

ARMOR IX VAULT AT SCHLOSS SIGMARINGEN
A collection of arms, etc., from earliest ages to the present time

in time for a service in honor of some Fest, and heard the old
Gregorian church music, one of the few places where it is
possible to hear it. Then we called on Pater Nicolas, who is
a Count something, and one of the big men. He was sent to
the Rhine to entertain the Kaiser at one of their monasteries.
He took us to walk up a mountain, where we could see a beau-
tiful old castle, where lived relatives of the family, but we
couldn't walk as far as it was so warm in the sun. It seems
they saw us coming in the castle and were disappointed when
we turned back,

318

GERMANY

I met a count and countess there who spoke

English perfectly, and there came, back with us a widow,
Baroness of Hornstein (whose castle we saw on top of a rock
on the way from Triberg), with her two children. She is a
relative and stayed here over night, to go with us on Wednes-
day to Grueningen to visit another Hornstein in an old castle
built on Roman foundations.

So Wednesday three Adelmanns, three Hornsteins, two

.^%m

COUNT SALIS. "PATER NICOLAS," HEAD OF THE MONASTERY
BENEDICTINE ORDER AT BEURON

von Gallens and ourselves, went by train to Riedlingen and
drove to the village of Grueningen, which belongs to the castle
where the Hornsteins live and the castle church is also the
parish church. The castle was wonderful with secret stair-
cases and windows of old stained glass, coats of arms every-
where, armor and guns, rifles, spears and lances, in short the
whole thing looking like the Cluny Museum.

The Count does the most wonderful illuminating and
showed us the family book, containing the family history and
names of all people who visit them, with colored coats of arms.

319

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Here again I was the guest of honor and seated at the tea
table in a mediaeval room at the right hand of the host. Then
we saw beautiful portraits and embroideries in use 400 years,

HALL, SCHLOSS HORNSTEIX. GRUEXIXGEX

such furniture, tapestries, brocades and bric-a-brac, and they
are so modest with it all, and you would have thought I was
a queen the way they treated me.

Sigmaringen, Sunday 22nd August, 1897.
We were invited Thursday by the Prince and Princess of
Hohenzollern to spend the afternoon and take supper at their
country residence. It rained so terribly that the Hof Marshall
sent us word to come only to supper at 7.30. They sent the
Royal carriages with crowns on the lining at 6.30 and we drove
nearly an hour. We were taken up to a room lighted with
candles and then they came in a hurry to say the Prince was
waiting, so we had to fly down and the first thing I knew I was
leaving the drawing room on the arm of the man who unwit-
tingly caused the Franco-Prussian war.

320

GERMANY

We entered the dining room between two rows of servants
in livery and one man in full uniform also waited on us. Every
one stood until the Prince and I were seated. Frank sat with one
of the Maids of Honor and Countess Adelmann was on the other
side of the Prince. When the champagne came the Prince drank

THE FAMILY ADELMANN AND MRS. F. H. ROSENGARTEN

first my health and then Frank's. I have kept the menu and the
namesof thepeopleattable. Itwasallveryinformal and I wished
I had Mrs. Whelen's talents and my own voice to entertain
them, but I did my best and I think they were all amused.
After supper the Prince said we would play nine pins and
before I knew it, in my Shaker cloak, which was much ad-
mired, I was alone in a Sedan chair, which had been arranged
on two wheels and drawn by a valet in livery to another
entrance, through the rain, where the Prince received me.
Then we all played and had tea, beer and mineral waters.
The Princess goes to bed at 6 o'clock, so we couldn't see
her, as the rain prevented our going in the afternoon. Can
you imagine sister Mary going through all this with head up
high? They were to leave for Ragatz next day and Friday
night three of the maids of honor came to supper here and a
Count Bruhl and Count Gallen and I taught them Grabuge

21 321

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and they were delighted. Before he left the Prince gave orders
that his coach and four were to be sent to take us out for a
drive. Yesterday we spent the whole day making the excur-
sion to Hohenzollern, a magnificent stronghold on top of a
mountain. This Prince owned it all, but gave half the owner-
ship of the Castle to the Kaiser in 1850 when there was a
rebellion here and he ceded many of his lands to Prussia.

To-morrow we leave for Munich, stopping first at Ulm for
a few hours and spend the night at Augsburg and get to Munich
Tuesday eve. We stay there until Saturday and come back
to Ulm where we meet Count Adelmann and all go to
Hohenstadt, their castle and estate. The family comes from
Adelmanns-felden, near by, and in the 15th century acquired
Hohenstadt.* Some of the family still live at Adelmanns-
felden and they also have a great house in some other place.

We passed in coming from the Black Forest an old ruin
on a high hill called Hohenstauffen where Adelmann's mother's
family lived. His grandfather and grandmother's portraits are
beautiful. They have a dreadful picture of severing a man's
hand from the arm, showing their powder of life and death in
the old times over their peasants.

I must send this off at once. I don't get a minute to do

anything. Count Adelmann never forgets little Laura and

wanted to know all about her. They think they may come

over for their silver wedding two years from now.

With much love,

AfT'ly., yours, M. D. R.

Sigmaringen, Aug. 22nd, 1897.

Sunday — Raining.
Dear Cliff and Sam,

Here we are still and enough cut out for us to keep us here
a month, so hospitable are our hosts. This afternoon the
Prince's four-in-hand is to come to take us driving, but alas
it is raining. I wrote you about our evening at the Palace.

*We were invited in 1907 to come and join in the celebration of the acquisition of
Hohenstadt by the Adelmann family, which occurred in 1407!

322

GERMANY

Yesterday we went to the famous Castle of Hohenzollern at
Hechingen and I renewed the dehghts of a visit there 30 years
ago.

To-morrow we are to leave for Ulm and Augsburg. Young
Raban Adelmann and his sister Mechtilde are to go with us as
our guests. We arrive in Munich on Tuesday and stay there
till Saturday. Then we go to Count Adelmann's estate to
remain two days and then we must move on towards Paris.

We have enjoyed our visit here beyond our ability to de-
scribe. The family are all most intelligent and there is no end
to their hospitality. Night before last Graf A. gave an Ameri-
can supper for us, tomatoes, green corn, flannel cakes and
other American things that are unknown here (the seeds and
formulas he got at Jamestown in 1893), and had the Court
ladies and several Counts and your Mother taught them
"Grabouche" and we had lots of fun. I dread to say good-bye
— everyone has been so kind and we feel as if we were per-
fectly at home. The Prince was most cordial and thanked
us for visiting him. So good-bye and best love,

Affy., F. H. R.

We hope to be in Paris on the 5th.

Aug. 23rd 1897, 10 A. M. — Raining.
Dear W,

We have been here eight days with Count Adelmann and
have been overwhelmed with attentions, dined with the Prince
in the summer palace. He sent his four-in-hand to take us
driving and we have been to the most romantic castles, cloisters
and visited the wonderful museums and collections of arms
here. So time has flown and no letters written. We must
tell you all about it when we come back.

We are to leave at i o'clock for Ulm, Augsburg and Munich
and remain in Munich till Saturday when we go to Hohen-
stadt, Graf Adelmann's own castle, for two days and by the
time this reaches you we will be back in Paris, where we stay
till the 22nd of Sept., on the 25th we sail for home. The

323

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Danube is beginning to run very full owing to the rain. Mary
is in her element but feels under deepest obligations for her
reception here.

Yours ever, Frank.

Sigmaringen, Aug. 23rd, 1897.

II A. M. — raining.
Dear Cliff,

At last the time has come for us to leave here and we go

at I to Ulm and Augsburg and Munich. While much of the

time we have had rain our visit has been a series of delightful

THE EXCURSION' TO NIEBELUXGEN LAND IN ROYAL EQUIPAGES

experiences. Since I wrote you we have visited Castle Hohen-
zoUern Hechingen. Yesterday the Prince sent his four in hand
and another carriage and a big party of us had a glorious
drive along the Danube. The Adelmanns have been untiring
in their thought of our comforts and pleasures and your
Mother is overwhelmed with their attentions. The son Graf

324

GERMANY

COUNT ADELMAN AND WIFE AND M. D. R.

HOHENZOLLERN HECHINGEN

Ancient home of the Hohenzollern Dynasty

325

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

SALON, SCHLOSS HOHEXZOLLERN. SIGMARINGEN

"HOF KAMMER," SIGMARINGEN

Adelmann's home as Hof Kammer — President

326

GERMANY

EXTRAN'CE TO SCHLOSS HOHEXZOLLERN, HECHIXGEX

>^^

"•>^

■rJ

THE LUXCH AT SCHLOSS HOHEXZOLLERX, HECHINGEN
327

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Raban goes with us to Munich where we stay until Saturday
and then we go to Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's Schloss. He
lives in a government building here, being the President of
the Prince's establishment. It is a big building with offices
on the 1st floor and his residence occupying the whole second
story. He has a beautiful garden and on Friday gave us an
American supper of green corn, tomatoes, flannel cakes and
lots of things he learned of and brought from America. His
wife and children are charming people and on close footing
of friendship with the Prince, also the King of Wurttemberg
and the Emperor. Naturally we feel a little awkward meeting
all the fine people but we find them all cultivated and most
courteous to us. Adelmann is so cordial in his expression of
friendship I feel sad at parting with him, as I shall hardly dare
to come to Europe again and he will have to come to us. We
will have lots to talk about on our return. And with love to
you and all,

Affy. yrs., F. H. R.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof,
Munich, 27th August, 1897.
My Dear Boys,

Here we are still, arriving Tuesday evening and expecting
to leave for Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's Estate, to-morrow
noon and remain there till Monday. Thence we work our
way gradually to Paris, where I shall be glad to get a rest.
Here we have been on the go with Count Raban Adelmann,
going to concerts, theatres and the Opera in the evenings,^
and seeing pictures in the day time. Your Mother is perfectly
wild to buy things and as I am not interested in the sort of
things she is, nor in the trouble of getting purchases to Phila-
delphia, she makes little progress.

Munich is a very interesting place, but this Hotel is not

cheerful. The art life here is intense but without suitable

people to show us around, naturally we lose more time trying

to make up our minds what to see than we take in seeing them.

328

GERMANY

HOTEL BAVERISCHER HOP, MUNICH

THE OPERA HOUSE. MUNICH

329

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The weather is most treacherous and ever}' day the rain comes
at intervals so one has to trust to an umbrella to keep dry.
However we have been fortunate to escape a wetting. Your
last letters were dated about the 12th of August and gave us
much comfort.

Your A'lother is as enthusiastic as ever, altho she tires
easily and I have to obey her wishes. Uncle Joe is still at
Hombourg and expects to be there until 6th or 7th of Septem-
ber. So with love to all our dear ones, remembrances to the
servants and best wishes for your happiness.

As ever Your affectionate, F. H. R.

Schloss Hohenstadt,
August 29th, 1897.
Dear Laura,

Just a week since I wrote you from Sigmaringen and when
the Prince sent his break and four horses to take us driving-
We went to a beautiful valley where there was a cave exactly
like the one in Siegfried where the dragon stays. We went to
Ulm, Monday at one o'clock, taking Raban with us and got
there at four, took a carriage and drove all around and found
it very curious and interesting, not in any way modern — and
dined there and went on to Augsburg for the night. We slept
at the "Drei Mohren," Three Moors, and it is next to the
Fugger House, and in the hall of the hotel is the chimney piece
where the old Fugger threw the bonds of Charles the Fifth
into the fire.

Augsburg we also found very ancient and interesting, the
magnificent Cathedral, Ratti Haus, &c. taking all our morning
and we took the afternoon train to Munich. There we were
busy looking at the New and Old Palaces filled with gorgeous
things and the Old and New picture galleries and antiquary
shops all day long.

The second evening we spent at the Residenz Theatre at a
performance of "Cosi fan tutti" by Mozart. The Theatre
was very richly decorated in rococo style and the perform-

330

GERMANY

ance excellent. The first night I forgot to sav we went to
the Kalm Concert, a splendid orchestra of 85, and a big organ.
I brought the program with me.

Thursday night we went to see "Tristan and Isolde" at
the Royal Opera House, Vogl singing Tristan. I got so tired
before the last act I had to come home. The last evening the
others went to the "Fledermaus" and I stayed at home and

J^.a^^^/<^/.

packed the trunks so as to have Saturday morning free and I
bought an old clock for the library mantel. Saturday at one
we took a fast train back to Ulm where Count Adelmann met
us and an hour and a half brought us to Aalen, when a carriage
was waiting with a coachman in greenish gray Tyrolean or
Jager costume and we drove ten miles mostly up hill to this
place.

I expected a good deal but I was not at all prepared for the
size of the castle and church. There is a circle of mountains

331

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

in the distance and we look down from every window on a
magnificent panorama. The staircase is superb and the steps
so low that in the old French wars once the French officers
rode their horses all the way up. The first room was an enor-
mous hall, at least 30 ft. by 50 ft., perhaps more, with a music
gallery at one end and the rooms all open on it, with double
doors. It is hung with old portraits and decorated in plaster
in rococo style and all the ceilings of the rooms are similar,
as also the church.

S^ HLOSS HOHENSTADT
The Home of the Adelmann Family

We arrived after seven in time for supper, which was de-
licious, and went to bed early. This morning we went to
church at nine o'clock after this fashion. We went a short
way from the Castle through a cloister formerly covered, into
a tower and up a high staircase, which brought us into a room
just over the chancel and with a long window into the church
just like a proscenium box at the Opera, with a beautiful gilt
frame and glass windows pushed up, red velvet cushions to
kneel on and lean on and after the sermon the priest prayed

332

GERMANY

AUGSBURG CATHEDRAL

ROYAL CARRIAGES OF PRIX'CE LEOPOLD OF HOHEXZOLLERN

333

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

for the Adelmann family. They lived at Adclmannsfelden,
their old home a thousand or twelve hundred years ago and
own it yet, and bought this place in 1407, I think it was, and
have been Lords of the Manor ever since.

After service we w^ent down and visited the church. It
was built by an Adelmann and very large and handsome and
the service was very impressive. In front of the Chancel was
a large tablet in the floor with a huge colored coat of arms,
which turned out to be the door to the crypt, where the family

PRINCE LEOPOLD OF HOHENZOLLERN

is all buried. Afterwards we went into the garden, which is
laid out like Versailles. It was made by an ancestor, a lady,
whose husband (an Adelmann) was Minister to France, and
there she got the idea. Long arbors and rows of high trimmed
trees and orangeries down the middle with exquisite views
over the mountains.

The furniture here makes one weep with envy and how
perfect it must have been here before they took away all they
have at Sigmaringen. They have a replica of the great stone
tablet that the Austrians took from them, in the Church, of

334

GERMANY

STAIRCASE, SCHLOSS HOHEXSTADT

A PART OF THE GARDEN OF SCHLOSS HOHEXSTADT

335

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the Adelmann who was killed on his return from the Crusades
by a neighboring Baron. I believe the descendants of that
very man still live here and they are all friends now.

I have made a little spot where our rooms are on the pic-
ture at the head of this paper and the moat is down below
filled with big fish which look just like gold fish but are not.
From the dining room and salon you look straight down a
fearful depth to the ground, and then there is a slope way off
to the valley covered with orchards. Frank has taken pic-
tures of everything and if they turn out all right you will have
a very good idea of the place.

CHURCH OF HOHENSTADT

You feel as if you were high up in the mountains, but it
is not really so high, and I never saw a more glorious view.
We are eating delicious green corn as sweet as sugar and such
flannel cakes as we never get, and strange to say, baked with-
out any fat on the griddle. We leave Tuesday morning for
Stuttgart and Tubingen and go into the Vosges on our way

336

GERMANY

to Paris. Please send this to Cliff and ask him to keep it
carefully. I was glad to hear of your cheerful surroundings
at Jamestown and hope it may last. With much love to all,

Aiffy. yours, M. D. R.

Schloss Hohenstadt,

Aug. 29th, 1897.
Dear Clifford,

I write in a hurry to tell you of our arrival here last evening
and with all our expectations more than realized. A real old
castle with village and church attached. We spent four days

COUNTESS ADELMANX'S BOUDOIR, SCHLOSS HOHENSTADT

in Munich and had young Adelmann with us — went to theatre

and Opera, &c., &c.

We go from here day after to-morrow to Stuttgart and

Tubingen two or three days in the Vosges on our way to Paris.

I don't know why your Father don't care to go to Hombourg

to see the Parade.

22 337

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Can you imagine me sitting up in a proscenium box at
church to-day with velvet cushions and gilt frame like the
Empress Frederick at the old Schloss at Hombourg? Only
it is much more elegant and talk about portraits of ancestors,
everywhere, and coats of arms and the crypt where all the
Adelmanns are buried under the chancel! They prayed for
the family just after the sermon. I fear it will be hard to
become an ordinary person after speaking with nothing be-
low a Count or Baron, each one with a castle attached.

BANQUET HALL, SCHLOSS HOHEXSTADT

The waiter man here wears a hunting costume of greyish-
green, which is beautiful and just in keeping with the room
and furnishings. I am bringing back the recipe for souffle au
chocolat, you never tasted such good things to eat in your
life, and they know how to live. The staircase is superb.
In the French wars once the French officers rode up the stair-
case on horseback.

The manoeuvres are to take place in the neighborhood and

338

GERMANY

they are to entertain eleven officers for ten days, among them
two Princes, &c., &c.

I must stop and we shall not cease to regret that you
couldn't have seen all this.* I must go to supper, so good-bye.

With much love,

Your aff. Mother, M. D. R.

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart,
Tuesday, Aug. 31st, 1897, 11 P. M.
Dear Cliff and Sam,

We said good-bye to-day to the Adelmann family at their
Schloss at Hohenstadt, near Aalen in Wurtemberg after four
days of most delightful hospitality from them. Hohenstadt
consists of a dozen or more farms and large forests and the
Schloss and grounds have been in the family since the iSth
Century.

The Schloss is wonderfully interesting but it is so late I
wont attempt to describe it now as we are to leave to-morrow
at 8.30 for Tubingen, stay there to dinner and then go on to
Freudenstadt In the Black Forest for the night. Thursday we
drive over the highest roads there and reach Strasbourg for
the night and Paris by Saturday.

Graf Adelmann's family, wife, son Raban and daughter
Mechtilde are cultivated, handsome people, and we enjoyed
being with them and they begged us to stay longer but as they
must quarter 14 officers (a Prince will have the rooms we had)
and 150 soldiers for ten days during the army manoeuvres
beginning on the 8th of Sept., we felt we could not intrude
longer.

Raban is a splendid fellow and is studying law and will
enter the government service, his brother inheriting the estate
and title.

Your affectionate, F. H. R.

We hope to get a pile of letters at Strasbourg on Thursday.

*With our sons we revisited Hohenstadt in 1900 and shared in the celebration of the
Adelmann Silver Wedding.

339

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Schwarzwald — Hotel in Freudenstadt,
September ist, 1897, Wed. 8.30 P. M.
Dear Boys:

Here we are in a curious place at the edge of the east side
of the Black Forest, on our way across the Forest to Stras-
bourg and Paris. We left Hohenstadt, Graf Adelmann's
Schloss, yesterday afternoon and spent the night in Stuttgart.
This morning we left Stuttgart at 8.20 for Tubingen, reaching
there at 10.20 and taking a cab drove all over, saw the many
familiar places and the Dungeons under the Castle, etc. At
1.30 we left for this place, but had to change trains three times
and the hot weather nearly used up your Mother.

This place is very high and the Doctors send their patients
here after the "cure" in Hombourg and other places. The
Hotel is neat and clean but there are few English-speaking
people and none of them interesting looking. W^e take a
carriage to-morrow and drive about 20 miles and then take
train to Strasbourg.

I hope to find a lot of letters at Strasbourg with good news
of you both. I wonder if Sam has started the Acme towards
home and attended to having the Custom House papers fixed
in Newport.

So good night with our best love.

Affectionately, F. H. R.

FRANCE

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, September 3rd, 1897.
Dear Boys,

Here we are a day ahead of our schedule, owing to unceas-
ing rain storms in Germany,

We left Hohenstadt (Count Adelmann's Castle), on Tues-
day and spent that night in Stuttgart. Next morning bright
and early we went to Tubingen, my old University town, and
had a most interesting visit there, but met no acquaintances
there as the vacation is now on. In the afternoon we went
on to Freudenstadt, a pretty mountain resort on the border
of the Black Forest and spent the night there. Yesterday
morning we left there in bright sunshine in a good team
to drive through the highest part of the Black Forest, but
were hardly started before a dreadful rain storm came on and
we saw very little of the beauties of that interesting region.
Fortunately we got through without a wetting and took a
train at Oppenau for Strasbourg. There we went to the Hotel
Ville de Paris to stay all night and to go to-day to the Vosges.

Alas ! we woke up to find heavy rain so we concluded to come
right on to Paris and now we are glad we did as the ride was
cool and no dust and we had the good fortune to meet Mrs.
Dr. Thos. Conrad (Aunt of Percy Frazer) and Miss Hutch-
inson, Aunt of Margaretta H. — your friend, two very lovely
women and we had the first jolly railroad ride yet.

341

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

This Hotel is crowded with Americans but not one single
face familiar to us. Air. Elias has not turned up as we had
hoped for and no letters here from home. Your Mother keeps
wonderfully well.

W'c shall make this our Headquarters till about the 21st
of September and then work our way towards Havre, whence

THE CHEMICAL LABORATORY, UNIVERSITY OF i LL;:...E.\

we now expect to sail on the 25th on the French liner Touraine
and hope to reach New York by the ist of October.

F. H. R.

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, 6th Sept., 1897.
Dear Sam,

We are having continuous rainy weather and to-day is
forbidding. Fortunately this Hotel is very comfortable and
we manage to pass the time, especially as a big batch of
"Ledgers" came from Wm. Cotter, who has faithfully remem-
bered me in our wanderings.

I suppose by this time the Yachts have pretty well disap-

342

FRANCE

peared from the Bay and Jamestown is pretty well cleaned
out of Summer folks. You no doubt will soon be starting Jim
homeward with the boat.

We, too, were glad to read in the Paris Herald that Wrenn
had again won the Championship, notwithstanding the rain.
Curiously enough the Tennis Tournament at Hombourg was
spoiled by rain, too.

Your Mother is busy with her shopping here and keeps
me running errands. We are to sail on the 25th — 19 days
more, so the time will pass quickly I am sure. If you are near
New York about the ist or 2nd of October look us up at
the French Line Dock.

I suppose I will hardly receive the answer to this letter as
it will not reach you until the i6th and we leave Paris on the
23rd or 24th.

Yrs. F. H. R.

The Normandy Hotel,

Paris, 9th September, 1897.
Dear Laura,

I haven't had a moment in which to write since we left
Hohen'itadt. That Sunday I wrote you a full description of
everything but shall have plenty to tell when I get home. We
went to Stuttgart and Tubingen and then to Freudenstadt in
the Black Forest, and drove in a pouring rain over a high
mountain and down through a beautiful valley w^here there
were numerous watering places and very attractive looking
ones, where I should like to go sometime. We enjoyed it in
spite of the rain and got to Strasbourg that night.

From there we intended to go into the Vosges Mts., but
it was raining so hard that we gave it up and took the fast
train to Paris, and here we are. I, of course, was laid up for
several days and had headache and the weather has been
horrid so I have lost almost a week. We went to church Sun-
day morning.

I at first had decided not to buy anything, but got inter-

343

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

ested and now think I will get a silk dress and a ball dress as
I may not come again and I shall not grow younger and it
seems to me if I am ever going to have anything I should have
it now and not w^orry about it, but the prices are terrible at
the good places and I haven't the strength of mind or body to
go around getting prices and making comparisons.

Last night we amused ourselves by going to the "Diner de
Paris" in the Passage Jouffroy, w'here Father and I used to
go and we had a delicious dinner, but it was all so old fashioned
and different from the Americanized hotels.

As I was sitting here writing who should come in but
young Miss Boyd from Phila., and her aunt, who have been
visiting an aunt in Loches near Tours, so now we are all writ-
ing and talking together. I get tired very easily and when I
am tired I have no sense and consequently cannot do much
of any shopping. I cannot tell you how I dread the trip home,
while Frank is counting the hours.

We are going to make a two-days' trip, to Rheims, Laon,
Pierrefonds, Compiegne and Beauvais, when it clears, and
will stop at Rouen on our way to Havre, probably leaving
here the 23rd. I am so tired I must go to bed, so good bye
and don't be surprised if I don't write again, as I shall be in a
whirl. With love to all.

Your aflP. M. D. R.

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, 9th September, 1897.
Dear Sam,

Your welcome letter of the 29th of August came today
and was the only bright thing about. Here we are pursued
with rain and cold. Your Mother seems to enjoy everything
and cannot understand why I am cold. I am glad you have
had some compensation in the way of warm w^eather and can
enjoy some sailing.

Paris is a most impressive place, a mixture of modern
newness with much that is quaint and old and everything

344

FRANCE

artistic and satisfying to the eye. The wonderful galleries
and Museums of the Louvre, Luxembourg, Versailles and
other places are simply beyond description. This afternoon I
drove across the Seine (where we live is north of the Seine) to
the Latin quarter and saw the Museum of the Luxembourg,
wonderful modern sculptures and paintings and then past
the Ecole Polytechnic and other wonderful buildings to the
Pantheon, where great Frenchmen are buried. We saw the
Palace of the Senate and a beautiful Park surrounding it.

Thus one thing after another springs up most unexpectedly
and each one of great historic interest. Owing to the rainy
cold weather we have been disappointed in excursions to St.
Cloud, St. Denis and many other places in the neighbor-
hood. However some of these days you and Cliff must come
over here and travel and see all these fine things with your
own eyes.

Last night your Mother took me to the Cafe "Diner de
Paris" in one of the Arcades on the Boulevard Montmartre,
dinner at 50 cts. and very good, but everything so different
from home. We had lots of fun and ate odd French dishes.
The Artichokes were splendid and quite new to me. Fruit
here is superb. Cantaloupes, Peaches, Pears, Plums and Grapes
and in profusion, though expensive. You would like the food,
it is all cooked with such a delicious flavor. We take a simple
breakfast and lunch and I drink but little wine, altho wine
here is served as part of the dinner. The table d'hote begins
about 6.30 and is quite an elaborate meal and about 60 or 70
sit down in a pretty room.

Nearly every person in the house is English or American,
but you might think they were all condemned to silence there
is such an entire absence of fun or intercourse. Your Mother
goes ahead, however, and how she is going to get things home
is a mystery to me. She buys for the house principally.

Well dinner is ready so I will run. I send this to 1905 as
you will either be there by the time it comes or they can for-
ward it. Tomorrow we go to the Opera. We leave here about

345

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the 22nd or 23rd for Havre and sail at 8 a. m. on the 25th
and are due in N. Y. late Oct. ist or carh' Oct. 2nd, French
Line. Good b}'e,

Affv

F. H. R.

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, Tuesday, Sept. 14, 1S97.
Dear Cliff and Sam,

Here it is cold enough to wear thick winter clothing and an
overcoat at night. Your Mother keeps well and works hard
at her shopping and dress making and must be pretty near
bankrupt b\' this time.

THE ROMAN ARCH, RHEIMS

We have just returned from a two-days' outing to Com-
piegne, Pierrefonds, Laon and Rheims. Compiegne is a won-
derful Chateau of Napoleon 1st, with a Park and Forest of
48,000 acres. We drove from there to Pierrefonds where Napo-
leon HI restored a curious but grand old castle, which, while
quite modern in look, exactly represents the former structure.
Laon has a very interesting church on a hill like Mont St.
Michel, coming up out of a flat plain. Rheims has several
fine churches and a Roman arch. Your Mother, of course,
saw them very quickly but enjoyed it immensely.

346

FRAX'CE

COURT OF CASTLE PIERREFOXDS, NEAR COMPIEGNE

COMPIEGXE, FROM THE PALACE

347

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We shall probably leave here on the 22nd or 23rd for Havre,
and be with Mr. Thackara, the Consul, there on the 23rd and
24th, so if necessary )'OU could wire us to his care but I hope
there will be no occasion to do so.

A Curious Ancient Town, Now (191 7) Headquarters of the German Army

I will be with you in i8 days I hope and then we can have
some good talks and enjoyable times together.

Affy. as ever, F. H. R.

My photos of Hohenstadt are capital.

The Normandy Hotel,
Paris, 17th Sept., 1897.
Dear Laura,

This will be my last letter, and I ought to be in bed now.
as I am not at all well. In fact I haven't been well in Paris at
all. We went away to Compiegne, Pierrefonds, Laon and
Rheims, and were gone Sunday and Monday.

348

FRANCE

^ih"^

SALON. CHATEAU de COMPIEGNE

THE CATHEDRAL, RHEIMS
349

EIGHT JOURXEYS ABROAD

The other young Adchiiann came to-night on his way home
from England. He looks a little like George and has his voice
exactly — is very nice but looks very delicate. We leave Paris
Thursday, 23rd, and stay over night at Rouen and will dine

ABOARD T

with the Thackaras Friday night at Havre. I can't tell you
how I dread the trip home. Good bye, wuth love to all,

Affly., M. D. R.

Hotel Normandy, Sunday, Sept. 19, 1897.
Dear Gliff axd Sam,

This; is our last Sunday on this side and the da}'s fly away
quickly; We were surprised to have a telegram from Count
Sigmund Adelmann from Margate, saying he would visit us
here and so on Friday night he arrived. He is blond and
smaller than Raban but is a very bright manly fellow and
enjoys sight seeing with your Mother. As we leave on Thurs-
day for Rouen and Havre he w^ill not have very long with us.

350

FRANCE

He goes to Berlin in October to hear the law lectures and
next year passes his first examinations, then he goes into some
position for three years and makes a second examination and
gets into a government position. It is quite a different sort of

THE "TOURAINE"

thing in Germany to study law, from our methods, doubtless
owing to the immense numbers of University men and the
competition for a career.

Naturally I think much of home and you and Sam and
hope you have cooler weather and that Sam arrived safely
on the Acme.

Report to Uncle Harry and the others our welfare and that
I hope Dolphy and young Mitchell did not have to go to the
coal regions with the City Troop for the coal strike. So good
bye and best wishes and love from your Alother and me and
greetings to you from Count Sigmund Adelmann.

Aflfy., F. H. R.

THE JOURNEYS OF 1900

With the Paris Exposition as a great attraction, the
writer with her husband and two sons sailed in May aboard
the Steamship St. Paul and landed at Southampton, thence
going to the New Forest, Winchester, and London.

The Exposition in Paris more than fulfilled anticipations.

The unveiling of the monument to Rochambeau at Ven-
dome made the visit there memorable and the cordial greet-
ings of the Marquise de Rochambeau more firmly cemented
the old friendship with her.

The customary visit to Hombourg and the "Kur" there
and thence the trip to Sigmaringen to visit the Count and
Countess Adelmann, followed. In order to give the Count-
ess Adelmann opportunity to prepare for the silver wedding
at the Castle at Hohenstadt, the journey to Munich, the castles
of the King of Bavaria and to Innsbruck and by the beautiful
Fern Pass to Neuschwanstein and to the Passion Play at
Oberammergau, was undertaken, while the Countess moved
her household from Sigmaringen to Hohenstadt.

The Silver Wedding at Schloss Hohenstadt was a memor-
able function and at the dinner nearly a hundred telegrams
of congratulation were read, among them ones from Emperor
William, the King of Wurtemberg, the Prince of Hohen-
zollern and other distinguished friends of the bridal pair.

Then followed the visits to Switzerland, the Vosges
(where war scenes of 1914-1917 are now progressing), Paris
and the return to America.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1900

S. S. ST. PAUL

Rough Weather May 24, 1900

Young Swedish woman

washed overboard May 24, 1900

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst,

New Forest May 26, 1900

Winchester and the

Cathedral May 26, 1900

Beautiful flowers and

shrubs, etc May 26, 1900

"Bewley Abbey"; Beau-
lieu, Home of Lord
Montague May 26, 1900

Stony Cross and Sir Wm.
Harcourt's House May 26, 1900

London June 7, 1900

Paris, Hotel Columbia. June 7, 1900

Terrible crossing from

Dover to Calais June 7, 1900

Vendome and the un-
veiling of the Monu-
ment of Rochambeau June 7, 1900

The ceremonies and cor-
dial greetings of the
Countess Rochambeau. June 7, 1900

General Horace Porter. June 7, 1900

Escorted by town author-
ities June 7, 1900

Homes of Guzman-Bianco

and Queen Isabella. . .June 7,1900

Infanta Eulalia June 7, 1900

Paris Exposition of 1900 .June 7,1900

Palais des Beaux Arts,

Arc de Triomphe June 7, 1900

Mrs. Eads Hazard's break-
fast at Cafe d'Armen-
onville June 22, 1900

Hunting and purchasing

tapestries June 22, 1900

Gladys Unger and her

portraits of us June 22, 1900

Julian's studio June 22, 1900

Interesting visits to Ger-
ome, Bouguereau and
Jan Van Beers June 22, 1900

Shown through the homes June 22, 1900

Theatre des Danses,
cafes, pavilions and
trip to Peking on the
Trans Siberian, Train
de Luxe June 22, 1900

Sarah Bernhardt in

L'Aiglon June 22, 1900

"Andalusia" at the Ex-
position June 22, 1900

359 Tea at "Ceylon," Coffee

at Spanish Restaurant July i, 1900 370

359 Wonderful Swiss Village July i, 1900 370
Rue des Nations and the

360 Foreign Pavilions July i, 1900 371

4th of July at the Ambas-

360 sador's July 7,1900 372

Hombourg, via Metz and
362 Mayence July 7, 1900 372

Royal Hotel Victoria July 7, 1900 372

Cool weather July 7, 1900 372

362 Lugano July 11, 1900 373

Hombourg July 22, 1900 374

362 Saalburg July 22, 1900 375

363 Koenigstein July 22, 1900 375

363 Cronberg July 22, 1900 375

Empress Frederick's cas-

363 tie July 22, 1900 376

Palace Hotel, St. Moritz July 23, 1900 376
Meeting Twombleys and

364 Vanderbilts July 23, 1900 376

Anxiety about War with

China July 23, 1900 377

364 Hombourg July 27, 1900 377

364 Kaiser Wilhelm's energy July 27, 1900 378

Hardtwood July 27, 1900 378

364 Frederichs-Dorf July 27, 1900 378

Koenigstein July 27, 1900 378

366 Sigmaringen Aug. 3, 1900 379

366 Sousa's Band at Frank-

366 furt Aug. 3, 1900 379

Intense heat Aug. 3, 1900 379

366 Stuttgart Aug. 3, 1900 379

Death of King of Italy Aug. 3, 1900 380
Innsbruck, Hotel Tirol Aug. 11, 1900 380

367 Castle Ambass Aug. 11, 1900 381

Perplexing currency Aug. 11, 1900 381

367 Hall Imst Aug. 13, 1900 383

Nassareit Aug. 13, 1900 383

368 Fern Pass Aug. 13, 1900 383

368 Tegern See Aug. 20, 1900 385

Neuschwanstein, fres-
coes, etc Aug. 24, 1900 390

368 Castle Hohenschwangau.Aug. 24, 1900 392

368 Oberammergau Aug. 24, 1900 392

Drive through Forests. . .Aug. 24, 1900 392
The Passion Play, de-
scription of Munich. . .Aug. 24, 1900 393

Hohenstadt Aug. 25, 1900 395

369 Silver Wedding Aug. 25, 1900 395

Altar in the Church Aug. 25, 1900 397

369 The Silver Wedding of
Count and Countess
369 Adelmann Aug. 25, 1900 397

357

INDEX

1900

402

1900

402

1900

402

1900

404

1900

403

1900

403

1900

403

The " B a u m k u c h e n "

from Ponicrania Aug. 25, 1900 399

The Dinner and Curi-
ous old musicians Aug. 25, 1900 399

Manoeuvres and Aus-
trian Soldiers Aug. 25, 1900 402

General Von Cam-

erer's Reveille Aug. 25,

Uhlans Aug. 25,

Count Szeil Aug. 25,

Fireworks Aug. 25,

Decorating band leader Aug. 25,

Departure of the troops Aug. 25,

Splendor of soldiers Aug. 25,

96 Telegrams of con-
gratulations from the
Kaiser, King of Wur-
temberg, Prince of
Hohenzollern, etc Aug. 25, 1900 400

Old Tubingen student

songs Aug. 25, 1900

The Regimental Band. . Aug. 25, 1900

Presenting red, white
and blue asters to
band master Aug. 25, 19CX)

Wonderful uniforms Aug. 25, 1900

Beautiful songs by vil-
lage choir and band Aug. 25, 1900

Play at the Kindergarten Aug. 26, 1900

Castle and garden of
Baron Konig and its
treasures Aug. 26, 1900

Pheasant shooting Aug. 29, 1900

Ellwangen and Adel-

mannsfelden Aug. 29, 1900 406

402
403

403
403

404
404

40s
406

Laubach in Leinthal Aug.

Dungeons Aug.

Purchases of antiquities
there, ciiurch lamp,
etc Sept.

Lucerne Sept.

Constance, Insel Hotel Sept.

Zurich, Land Museum. . .Sept.

Duse Sept.

Ascent of Mt. Pilatus. . . .Sept.

Letter from top of Moun-
tain Sept.

Munster Sept.

Hotel Altenberg Sept.

Basle, Colmar Sept.

Schlucht and Munster
Thai Sept.

Gerardmer Sept.

Hotel du Lac Sept.

Oberrheinheim Sept.

Odilienberg Sept.

Strassburg Sept.

Metz and the Battle-
iields of 1870, and
Cathedral Sept.

Treves, Roman ruins. . . .Sept.

Marquis of Salisbury. . . .Sept.

Beauties of the Vosges
region Sept.

Hotel Porta Nigra,
Trier Sept.

Regiment of Artillery. . . .Sept,

Gravelotte Sept.

Paris Sept,

Bedford Hotel Sept.

Hotel France and Choi-
seul Sept.

29,

1900

408

29,

1900

408

1900

409

1900

410

■ <^,

1900

410

1900

411

1900

411

1900

411

1900

412

1900

412

II,

1900

413

11)

1900

413

• II,

1900

413

-II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

•II,

1900

413

■11,

1900

413

■13,

1900

414

•IS,

1900

414

•IS,

1900

415

•IS,

1900

41 s

.18,

1900

416

.18,

1900

416

.18,

1900

417

ENGLAND

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest

May 24th, 1900.
Dear Fanny,

As you see we are here after many efforts, and think we
are In heaven, or did last night. As it is raining this morning
we are a little discouraged, for we expected to see everything
in one drive and move on to Winchester and London to-morrow.

We left New York in perfect weather which continued
several days, but then it got terribly rough and we had great
waves following the ship, which swept off a poor young
Swedish woman and (altho the ship turned around and threw
buoys) she was overwhelmed by an enormous wave and not
seen again. The turning of that great ship in that awful sea
was something wonderful. The whole thing cast such a gloom
over the ship's company we could hardly wait to get off it.

We came right out here by the first train, as the boys
wanted to and it is a little Eden. I wonder if this is where
you stopped — it is a nobleman's estate changed into a hotel,
but is badly misnamed. It is narrow and long with doors
opening to the lawn, and such a lawn and trees, rhododendrons,
in full bloom! The back of the house is covered with a mag-
nolia, with glossy pointed leaves, with wistaria and Banksia
rose vine, which has clusters of tiny yellow roses.

After dinner, beautifully served at small tables, we went
into the hall room where there was a coal fire, as it is cold and

3S9

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

looks as if it were in for a rainy day. I will let you know

what we do in London. With love to all and hoping to hear

from you soon.

Aflfly, yours M. D. R.

Grand Hotel, Lyndhurst, New Forest.
Saturday, May 26th, 1900.
Dear Fanny and All,

Here we are still, having come from Southampton for a
rest and a fine resting place it is, but oh! so cold! I wear

CRAXIJ HOTEL, LVXDHURST, NEW FOREST

the thickest Winter clothing and sleep under layers of heavy
blankets.

Mary is in fine shape. Cliff" too, Sam better, but not yet
himself. Cliff went to London this morning to arrange our
lodgings, get the trunks, etc., and we go tomorrow to Win-
chester to service at the Cathedral and a drive around in the

afternoon and reach London in time for dinner.

360

ENGLAND

BEAULIEU ABBEY

WHERE WILLIAM RUFUS FELL. NEW FOREST
361

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We have some nice Americans here.

We drove through the Forest yesterday to "Bewley'' —
Beau Lieu by rights — saw the home of Lord Montague.
In the afternoon to Stony Cross, saw Sir Wm. Harcourt's
house and the big oaks, took tea at a Forester's Lodge and
got back to a good dinner.

What a contrast it all is to things American. Here the

birds are endless, the flowers fascinating, hawthorne, gorse,

roses, wistaria and the rhododendron in great profusion. Mary

is more enthusiastic about travel than ever and beams upon

us all.

Affectionately Frank.

FRANCE

Hotel Columbia, Paris,
June 7th, 1900.
Dear Laura,

Frank and I left London last Friday in a terrible North
Easter, and had a daisy time crossing from Dover to Calais.
I think it was the wettest day I ever saw and we were much
more exposed to the rain than I expected. We found the
boat French and different, and were lucky to get a cabin
costing seven dollars and a half for the hour and twenty min-
utes, but it was worth it to keep our baggage dry and we had
comfortable sofas.

I lay flat on my back and when I thought I couldn't stand
it any longer got up and tried but was not able to do much
and in consequence have been upset ever since, until now. I
begin to think I am a good sailor, as the waves poured over
the deck and the motion was terrible and I could hear people
sick all around us.

We got here and found nice rooms and comfortable beds
and a good dinner. The Hotel is small and we have one side
of this floor with bath, practically to ourselves. We have our
trunks in the passage way between the front and back rooms
and have plenty of room for our things. It was a great change
from London and I had to put on my summer things, the sun
shone so hot. We went to church in the Avenue de 1 Alma Sunday

363

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

morning and met Dr. K, who walked back with us and took
us in en route to the new Hotel du Palais on the Champs
Elysees.

Monday morning we got up at 5.30 and went to the Gare
d'Orleans a three quarter hour ride and took the train to
Vendome, a ride of 5 hours and found the place all decorated

GENERAL HORACE PORTER

Then U. S. Ambassador to France

and went (after lunch at the dirtiest hotel I ever saw) to see

the statue of Rochambeau unveiled. We were conducted by

some of the town notables to the Estrade and there saw the

Marquise who made us sit on the front row beside her. On

the opposite side were Horace Porter, our Aiinister, and Count

Rochambeau and a distinguished Admiral of the French Navy

and some Generals, &c.

-^64

FRANCE

There were military bands and choirs of singers from Paris
and decorations galore. Gen'l. Porter had come down the
ni^ht before and stayed at the Chateau and had taken part

REPLICA AT WASHINGTON, D. C, OF THE MONUMENT OF ROCHAMBEAU AT

VENDOME

in a mass celebrated in the Cathedral during the morning.
He and his secretary and the father-in-law of the Marquise
took up the available bed rooms there. They begged us to

365

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

come after the ceremony of unveiling to the Chateau, where a
lunch was to be served, — flowers put on the tomb ot the
Marquis I knew, &c., but we knew it would be impossible for
us to stay in that hotel over night, so there was nothing to
do but to come back.

Some Americans went down in the train with us but of
course didn't know who we were, — a Col. Huntington, and
Col. Chaille Long, &c., who were most polite after they found
out who we were and saw us sitting with the Marquise. I
was disappointed to give up going to the Chateau, but between
the heat and fatigue had to let it go.

Last evening (Wednesday) the boys arrived from London.
They both like the hotel, are satisfied with the situation and
the food is excellent. I went to the Louvre store day before
yesterday as I needed some gloves and I got slippers (felt)
like mine and yours for Frank and Cliff and a parasol.

In the evening Frank and Sam and I walked around in
the neighborhood. Guzman-Bianco lives on the opposite cor-
ner and we saw the magnificent dining room with carved
wood panels. Queen Isabella's palace is on the other corner.
The Infanta Eulalia is there at present and is getting
divorced. This morning I went with Frank and Sam to
where he has his baths and then to the Exposition and went
all through the Petit Palais des Beaux Arts, came back in an
omnibus to the Arc de Triomphe and walked down here. I
shall go this p. m. either to order some things or with Sam,
if he will take a chair and ride awhile in the exhibition.

Everything is hard work here, the crowds are so great
and the streets almost impossible. The coachmen don't want
to go by the hour and the omnibuses are always full.

Love to all, Affly, M. D. R.

FRANCE

Hotel Columbia, Paris,

June 22nd, 1900.
Dear Laura,

It seems almost impossible to get time to write here and

now that the time is getting short I want to be out all the

time. We have had a delightful week. I don't know whether

I wrote you that I had written to Mrs. Hazard (Addie Eads)

to let her know that I was here. She responded immediately

and has been just as kind as possible ever since. The first

day she took me out to do some errands and then we drove

iantii.lv

through the Bois all the way to Sevres and went through the
Factory and then came back to the Cafe d'Armenonville and
had a delicious breakfast in a most beautiful spot.

The climate is so heavenly here, there is always just enough
cool breeze to prevent suffering with the heat. Since then she
has been out with me a whole day looking at tapestries, lace
shades and bedspreads, table cloths, &c. Her apartment
is furnished magnificently in the French style — she is at

367

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

home Sunday afternoons this month. Frank and Cliff went
there last Sunday at six, after we got back from Chantilly,
but I was so tired I could not do anything.

I find I cannot write in the evenings because I am so tired.

Over a week ago we paid all our calls. Walter Douglas'
sister introduced us to a Miss Unger, who is studying art
here and she took us to Julian's studio, where I saw a life

EXPOSITIUX, PARIS, 1900

class all women and a man model, and it didn't shock me at

all, and she also gave us a great treat by taking us to see

Gerome and Bouguereau, the two painters Frank has always

admired the most. Gerome's studio was very fine and filled

with beautiful things, and he was the grandest man I ever

saw. He now spends more time modeling statues than in

painting, but everything he does is wonderful. We also saw

his whole house and Bouguereau's also, which has a beautiful

garden.

368

FRANCE

We had these girls to dinner afterwards and then all went
to the Exposition and saw the Theatre des Danses (dances
of all nations) in the Rue de Paris, and then sat out on a
Terrace over the river at one of the Cafes. The Cafes are
down under the different Pavilions, close to the river on
both sides. Last night Cliif and I went to see Sarah Bern-
hardt in L'Aiglon by Rostand, the story of the Due de Reich-
stadt, son of the first Napoleon.

We all, with Mrs. H, are going to the Exhibition to-night
to see "Andalusia in the Time of the Moors." At the Spanish
cafe under the Spanish Pavillion on the Rue des Nations the
other side of the river, they have dancing and orchestra
during dinner and all evening, also at the Russian, German
and Swedish cafes, and these are packed full every night
besides every restaurant in the city and in the Bois and at
all the Hotels. Before the Grand Prix it was necessary to
engage a table at the German restaurant three weeks ahead.

I don't find the gloves at 5 francs here much better than

the gloves at home. Of course you see pretty things but they

are all very dear.

Affly., M. D. R.

We do not yet know where we go from here, but Sam will

visit St. Moritz.

Hotel Columbia, Paris,

July 1st, 1900.
Dear Fanny,

I have wanted to write, but you cannot know what it is
to have the care of three men, who don't know how to care
for themselves without a maid or valet, and try to see an
Exhibition and see visitors and do Paris at the same time.

I have been very well and have to-day only a little sick
headache, which I know perfectly well I can attribute to
indulging in afternoon tea and chocolate and good things
generally at the Exhibition afternoons. It is astonishing to
see every cafe and tea place filled to overflowing w^ith people
taking tea.

24 369

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I know Frank has told you a great deal about the Exposi-
tion as to exterior and exhibits. I find one of the greatest
attractions is to loaf about and sit down and watch the people
and take tea at Ceylon or at the English cafe or lunch at the
German restaurant (the fashionable thing to do), or take
coffee or an ice at the Spanish restaurant, where there is a
stage and Spanish dancers and singing afternoon and evening,
or to spend an evening in "Andalusia in the Time of the

RUE DES NATIONS, PARIS EXPOSITION, 1900

Moors," and see real Spanish dances of the people, on one
side, and on the other tournaments and tilts between Moors
and Spaniards on horses and camels.

Another delightful afternoon was spent in the Swiss
village, which is a most wonderful illusion, with real rocks,
mountain high and green grass, and valleys and shepherdess
huts way up on the hills and waterfalls and old houses and
chalets reproduced, shops, cafes, stables with real cows and
milk to sell, and a little church.

After an hour or two of hard work in the art galleries or

370

FRANCE

exhibits, such a scene is very restful and one carries away a
pleasant impression. The river runs between the Rue des
Nations on one side with the foreign pavilions, and the Rue
de Paris on the other. The latter is lined with theatres and
restaurants and is very fashionable at night. The foreign
pavilions have their restaurants underneath and all have
music, so it is very gay at lunch time and dinner time.

Another experience was sitting in the Trans-Siberian train
de luxe and having lunch in the dining car, while travelling
from Moscow to Pekin; the illusion is perfect; the scenery
moves while the train is stationary. All is very elegant and
you come out into the Chinese pavilion and restaurant
where there are Chinese servants with long pig tails and
queer hats and always the same gayety.

Miss Douglas is very nice and she introduced us to a Miss
linger, an art student here, who has taken us to Gerome's,
Boug-ereau's and Jan Van Beers' studios and also Julian's.
This was a great treat and the houses also superb. Gerome
is magnificent and his work the same. Van Beers' house
something wonderful but Monte Cristo like. I have never
dreamed of such houses as I have seen here.

At last we have decided on our future movements. We
all leave here Thursday, July 5th, Frank and Sam go to Basle
and spend the night, then on to Lucerne and in a day or two
across the lake to Burgenstock and spend a week at the big
Hotel half way up the mountain to get accustomed to the
high air. Then they go to Lugano, Chiavenna and over the
Maloja Pass to St. Moritz. Cliif and I go to Hombourg for
my three weeks' cure, as I need it very much. I prefer going
with the others but think it best to go to Hombourg.

Affly. yours, M. D. R.

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Royal Victoria Hotel, Bad-Hombourg.

July 7th, 1900.
Dear Laura,

Of course you know how hard it was at Paris to get a
chance to write, with going to the Exhibition and out to all
sorts of things. At the 4th of July reception at Mr. Porter's,
the American Ambassador, Frank met the Christophersons
(who were married in Philadelphia during the Centennial),
and they were most cordial, and she said if she had only
known we were in Paris she could have done a great deal
for us.

Frank and Sam left Paris Thursday morning, July 5th,
for Basle and Lucerne and are to spend a week at Burgen-
stock, a high place across the lake from Lucerne, preparatory
to going to St. Moritz. Cliff and I took the night train the
same night to Frankfort, by way of Metz and Mayence, and
got here by one o'clock the next day. We found two nice
single rooms awaiting us and if it would only get warm it
would be perfect, for the Hotel is beautifully kept and has
been all fixed up inside and everything is immaculately clean.

How I wish we could have this Hotel at Bedford, but I
must say the water tastes a great deal better here than the
Bedford water, but I miss the fires. It is as cold as winter
here and I am only comfortable in my fur cloak. There are

372

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

very few people here yet and the Paris fair may interfere with
all these baths.

It was hard work to get up this morning with the ther-
mometer at 50 degrees or lower and go out to drink 3 glasses
of cold water before breakfast. I am not to begin the baths
for several days.

Grand Hotel Splendide, Lugano.
Wed., July nth, 1900.
Dear Fanny and Joe,

Many thanks for yours of the 29th of June, which found
us at Lucerne this morning before we left at 9.08 to cross the
Gothard, and we arrived here at 1.24 to find heat like we have

GRAND HOTEL, LAKE LUGANO

at home and a great contrast to the nasty damp cold rainy
days in Lucerne. We spend the night here and go to Menaggio
and Chiavenna tomorrow and leave Chiavenna at 7 a. m.
on Friday for St. Moritz. We meet no home faces and make
no acquaintances, so we have to rely on each other for company.

373

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

If St. Aloritz benefits Sam we are likely to remain there
till about the 5th of August and go thence to Sigmaringen
for a visit, back to Paris and I do hope to sail on the 25th of
August. Mary seems never to tire of it over here and she
and Cliflf are in Hombourg, having chilly weather and I
fancy meeting few people but taking the "Kur" and imagin-
ing she is doing good for herself.

This is a most picturesque place and so neat and clean,
but deserted. I fancy we are the only guests in this big house
and we are seated in a big room trying to keep cool and await-
ing five o'clock when we go aboard a steamboat for a tour
around the Lake.

You seem to have had torrid weather in America and a
good spell of it, while we have had thick winter clothing on
and been glad to hug up to the fire.

We had to give up Burgenstock, the place looked so for-
lorn and damp and cold and inaccessible, and I hope the
change to St. Moritz will not be too sudden. I fancy the
weather will be more seasonable from now on. Everyone
talks Italian here and a few hours ago it was all German
and yet all pride themselves on being Swiss.

Sam joins me in love to you and all.

Affy. Frank.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Bad-Hombourg,

Sunday, July 22nd, 1900.
Dear Laura and Maria,

I write to you both together because I don't want to put
oflP writing to another day. Since I wrote you last (when we
were freezing in a cold rain) we have had the most intense
heat I ever felt, and it has been a struggle to get up at all
in the morning and get down to my bath. On returning I
was fairly swimming in perspiration. No doubt it is very
good for one.

Altho we are quite alone I love this place and the restful
quiet of it. I was never made to stay in cities in hot weather.

374

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

There are two old ladies from Boston in this Hotel that
Gen. Warren introduced to us by the name of Walker — have
been identified with Harvard, through father or brother, and
are delightful people.

Raban came over from Wiesbaden last Sunday, and we
took the trolley to the Saalburg, had coffee and came home to
late dinner. This Sunday morning he came partly on his
bicycle and partly by train to spend the day and it is just
beginning to rain, so I suppose he will have to go back by
train. His sister Alechtilde is visiting near Bonn on the

KOENIGSTEIX

Rhine and we have just come to the conclusion that we will
go direct to Sigmaringen from here and take her home with us
and perhaps go after a visit of 4 days to meet Frank and Sam,
returning to Hohenstadt for the silver wedding on the 17th.
Clifford and I made a beautiful excursion after lunch on
Wednesday. Taking a two-horse carriage we drove through
the pine woods, up and down hill to Koenigstein, where there
is a magnificent ruin, on a very high point above the town
and which I climbed up to. It was a royal residence and
fortress destroyed by the French in 1796. Then we took
coffee in the town and came back by the village of Cronberg,

375

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

a quaint place with frescoed houses and doll-house windows.
Those old villages have very steep roofs, covered with red
tiles, and nothing could be more beautiful than the view from
a high point over the dull red tiled roofs, nestled among the
green trees. Nearby is the Empress Frederick's new castle,
which we passed on our return home.

It has been too hot to make any excursions since, so we
have simply gone up in the trolley to the Saalburg and sat
there until well cooled off and then back again. There are
lots of pretty things here to buy, but such prices, everything
is so dear. M. D. R.

Palace Hotel, St. Moritz,
July 23 rd, 1900, Monday.
Dear Fanny and Joe,

Your most welcome lines of the nth came this morning
and were eagerly perused. You cannot tell how grateful we
are for your thought of us. Our present plan now is to leave
here on Thursday for Zurich and try to meet Cliff and Mary
somewhere, arrange our plans for the visit to the Adelmanns
and for the remaining weeks I have on this side Mary proposes
a few days in Sigmaringen and to make a trip somewhere and
be in Hohenstadt (Adelmann's Castle in Wurtemburg) for
the Silver Wedding about the i8th of August.

She finds the heat in Hombourg hardly bearable, but
declares she has enjoyed herself there. So you see trying to
arrange plans to be with Emma and party and with Mary
and Cliff and then to try to do the best for Sam has set us all
at diagonal points and I endeavor all the time to know what
to do to accomplish all. I have written Mary Sam and I
expect to leave on Thursday for Thusis and Zurich, remain
there anyhow till Monday, the 31st, and then! alas I have
no plans.

The F. W. Vanderbilts and Twombley have been in this
house four days. Sam cannot walk much and will not drive,
and each afternoon is showery and we are housebound, so the
search for health and strength for him is not a grand success.

376

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

The anxiety about affairs in China does not make any one
cheerful over here and we dread the future, for no one knows
what may come of all the horrible fighting and the political
events so near the bursting point. Europe cannot stand much
more without a rupture and the United States is just as

PALACE HOTEL, ST. MORITZ

likely to be embroiled as the other countries. The uncer-
tainty of the future makes me want to be home. I cannot
enjoy pleasuring with the thought of such anxieties everywhere
and if nothing prevents I shall sail as anticipated on the 25th.
So wishing you both pleasurable experiences in New England
and with love from all. Affy. Frank.

Royal Victoria Hotel, Hombourg,

July 27th, 1900.
Dear Fanny,

The heat has been intense here and with the taking of the
waters I have been almost incapacitated. It is very weakening
at the time and I am just getting over a two-day sick headache.

377

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I could hardly keep up the necessary correspondence with
f>ank and the temporary voluminous one with the Adel-
manns as I take the afternoons for a little rest, and then out
again either for a walk or up to the Saalburg in the trolley.

The Emperor Is too much like an American for anything.
He is just hustling things. He has built this trolley and is
building up the Roman Camp on the foundation walls to be
just as it was in Roman times. He already has a sort of
drawbridge at the main gateway and serrated walls along the
front and a piece of thorn-wood patch such as is described
in Julius Caesar and the restaurant is called Dornholzhause.

I have been to several places I did not go before, walks
through the Hardtwood, the other side of the town and to the
French village Friedrichs-dorf. One afternoon we took a
delightful drive to Koenigstein and climbed up to the ruins,
which are magnificent and back through the village of Kron-
berg and round by the Empress Frederick's castle.

On the Sunday Raban Adelmann came over from Wies-
baden on his bicycle and went back by train and on Monday
Clifford rode it back over the Koenigstein road and had a
delightful ride, stayed until Wednesday noon. He has gone
to Frankfort to meet Mechtilde Adelmann, who will stay here
until Monday with us when we all go to Sigmaringen, getting
there Monday evening.

We have the new Gov. General of Australia here — looks
like a boy; Earl of Hopetown. I must stop, so good bye.

Aff. yours, M. D. R.

I will keep you posted as to all our movements. Am
sorry I have no more news to tell you, but our life here is
most quiet.

I hope you are enjoying the cottage and have good food.
With much love to all, and hoping for a letter soon from
Jamestown.

Affly, M. D. R.

378

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Sigmaringen, Aug. 3rd, 1900.
Dear Laura,

I sent Laura postal cards to-day because beautifully
painted. She must keep them as it is quite the thing to collect
them. We had quite a gay time the last few days of our
stay at Hombourg. First Emma and family arrived and
after we had been so very much alone it was very nice to
have them to talk to. Then Mechtilde Adelmann, who had
been visiting on the Rhine, came to us Friday 27th and
stayed with us until we came here on Monday. Sigmund
brought her and as he had to go back to W^iesbaden that
evening and Sousa's band was to play that evening at a big
garden in Frankfort, we all, Sinnicksons, &c., went in and
came out on a late train.

Raban and Sigmund both came over from Wiesbaden
Sunday for the day and I had the girls for lunch and Emma
had us all for dinner. The table was beautifully decorated
with roses and altogether very fine. We left early Monday
morning and had lunch at Stuttgart and came on here at
eight o'clock.

We are enjoying every minute of it, going about in this
glorious climate. Frank and Sam arrived an hour ahead of
us, so we are all here together. Clifford and Mechtilde and a
friend have gone off on their bicycles to a neighboring village
to fish for trout, where he got a permission and the trout are
plentiful. Unfortunately the Prince and Court are in
deepest mourning for the Dowager Princess of Hohenzollern
and now they have gone to the funeral of the Duke of Coburg,
who is Victoria's son, and was formerly Duke of Edinburg,
and married the Czar's sister. Their daughter is the wife of
the Crown Prince of Roumania and has been entertained by the
Adelmanns in this house.* I think this is as beautiful country
as I ever saw and the climate is perfect, almost 2,000 ft. above
the sea. We suffered terribly with the heat at Hombourg, the
worst ever known there.

*Now (1916) the Queen of Roumania and alas! her distress great, owing to the dread-
ful War.

.^79

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Frank and Sam are quite decided to sail on the 25th of
this month and I shall have to give up my southern trip,
so probably Clifford and I will return late in October. We
go away Monday for a little trip around Innsbruck to give
the Adelmanns a chance to move to Hohenstadt and then we
meet on the 17th for the silver wedding, 19th, and the boys
come from Wiesbaden for their vacation and we expect to
stay there for at least ten days. Frank will leave 21st and
Sam may not go there at all but go to the Touraine instead
and meet his father at Cherbourg for the ship. Emma and
little Fanny have gone on to Oberammergau and the girls
have stayed in Hombourg.

Isn't it terrible about the King of Italy?* We are anxious

for news from China but don't get much. I must go to dinner,

so good bye, with love to all,

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

Flotel Tirol,
Innsbruck, nth Aug., 1900.
Dear Sam,

Many thanks for your two postal cards of Thursday
which came just now telling of your journey to Paris and meet-
ing Cliff, and of your arrangement for rooms at the Hotel
Columbia. I am glad to know of this and will come direct to
that Hotel from the Station. I do hope you will have a most
enjoyable time in the Touraine and be able to present the
letters so you will have some acquaintances to keep you
company and pick out little excursions.

If you can, hunt up Mrs. Charlemagne Towner at Tours
where she is spending the summer with her family. All you
have to do is to leave your card and address and I am sure
she will be happy to see you as she and her husband are
always most friendly to us and are very nice.

Here we are having a cold rain this morning and are con-
sequently housebound, but this is a nice hotel, very cleanly

*The King of Italy had just been assassinated.

380

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

and good food and with Aunt Emma and Fanny for company
we get along nicely and will not leave till Monday.

We start Monday on our return northward through the
Austrian and Bavarian Tyrol to the wonderful castle of the
crazy King of Bavaria and then turn westward to Bregenz and
Lindau and on to Ulm and Hohenstadt. On Monday we
have a two-hours' ride by rail to Imst and thence to Fiissen,
a ten-hours drive to take all day. It is said to be very beau-

TEGERN SEE, TYROL

tiful and I hope will be a success, altho the weather is fitful
these days and we may be caught by rain. Innsbruck is
certainly very beautiful and surrounded entirely by snow
capped mountains. Yesterday afternoon we took a beautiful
drive to a very old Castle, Ambass, near here, owned by the
Emperor of Austria and your Mother was greatly pleased
with the old furniture and paintings and a fine display of
armor.

They have a funny currency here, Guldens worth 40
cents are the units divided into a hundred Kreutzers and

381

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

l^MgC

w^%^

'^^J^^^^HBK'

^^H Jfy ^^r ^^Hft/^^l

AUSTRIAN "JAGER" REGIMENT IN THE FERN PASS

CASTLli AMBASS. INNSBRUCK
382

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

now they have Kroners about Y^ a Gulden, divided into
Hellers, lOO Hellers make i Kroner and two Hellers make
one Kreutzer. This involves a calculation at every trans-
action that resembles very much the Jew's who said the man
wanted ^lo for his coat, would take ^8 but would sell at $6
and it cost him ^4 and the buyer would give ^2. So every
time I buy a cigar it takes a lot of Japanese figuring to pay
for it and I pull out my "chicken feed" coins and find I have
to double the Hellers to make Kreutzers! Such is life! I
shall be glad to get back to a country where we will have
dollars and cents, or more properly dollars and lots of sense.
So good bye, old boy, write me fully care Morgan Harjes
& Co., and enjoy yourself and grow strong and well. Your
Mother joins me in affectionate greetings and love to you.

Affectionately, F. H. R.

Lermoos, Tirol, Aug. 13th, 1900.
Dear Fanny,

I have thought all day of how you would enjoy this drive
on this most perfect day. We were with Emma three days
at Innsbruck and yesterday took the small train to Hall and
walked all over it. To-day we left Innsbruck at 8 a. m. and
came to Imst by train and then took Extra Post to Nassareit
and then changed and had a real postilion and came over the
magnificent Fern Pass in an ideal atmosphere. We are going to
Oberammergau, but will spend to-morrow at Hohenschwangau.

We start this minute for Oberammergau, will stay over
Wednesday and come back here and use our tickets by Lindau.
We are very tired and must get up two mornings at 5 o'clock,
then on to the wedding. Love to all,

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

Hohenstadt, Aug. 20th, 1900.
Dear Sam,

Your Father is just going and I send this by him to say we
have enjoyed your nice letters from Blois and hope the stay
there has done you good. The silver wedding was the greatest

383

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

"^M'-- ■

THE FERN PASS, TYROL

^■lbt>

. A^ ■ i .^'^''.^■

*r:'-

-•• ->,

*.*

BANQUET TABLE, SILVER WEDDING, HOHENSTADT
384

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

success you can imagine and we only went to bed at one
o'clock beginning with a six o'clock dinner. The men of the
family all wore orders and the oldest was a general in full
uniform. There were 95 telegrams so far and five of them
were from different royalties. Your Father will tell you all
about it — it was much more delightful than we expected it
to be. Do write often and let me know how you are all the
time, as I shall be very anxious.

HOTEL, TEGERN SEE, TYROL

We had a most delightful trip of twelve days in the Tyrol
and travelled very hard, and as I had all the packing and
planning to do did not get much time to write. The first
day from Munich we were in 9 diflFerent conveyances and
arrived at Tegern-See at seven o'clock to find not a bed in the
village, but I told the woman we were going to stay just the
same and she finally found a single room, so after that we
took the trouble to telegraph ahead.

We were three days in Innsbruck in a most comfortable
Hotel and enjoyed being with your Aunt Emma and Fanny
25 385

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and Airs. Robinson, and her boys and met some nice young
Englishmen. Then we had a beautiful drive over the Fern
Pass to Fussen and the Castles of King Ludwig and then to
Lindau and then here. Take good care of yourself on the
ship. I hope it will be warm and now with a kiss for good
bye and with much love,

Your aflfectionate Mother, M. D. R.

Hohenstadt,
Aug. 21 St, 1900.
Dear Frank,

We received your postal this morning saying you were
unable to get a berth on the Oriental Express. Count A.
says he secured it two weeks ago and cannot understand
why you should not have had it. We were very anxious
when the terrible hail storm began for fear you would be
soaked as it w^ould have been impossible for three of you to
be protected in that carriage from the storm, but the coach-
man said you got to the station all right.

This morning before I could get dressed I heard the
soldiers coming and looking out saw all sorts of horses, wagons,
&c, officers and soldiers and sure enough they arrived in time
to want an early breakfast and now at one o'clock they will
have another and dinner to-night in the hall. It is still hot
and looks like another storm late in the day.

We miss you terribly and I feel badly to have you go
away. I don't see why you and Sam cannot be content to
settle down somewhere here and where the climate and food
are good. Do write often and keep me posted about Sam and
with much love from us all. Your aff, M. D. R.

Hohenstadt, 7 o'clock,

Aug. 22nd, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

We have been in a perfect whirl with the soldiers and
officers and I cannot get a moment. They came early yester-
day morning and we had early lunch and late dinner. They

386

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

are Uhlans and the highest officer is Major Frank and then
Baron von Gemmingen, a sort of cousin of Countess Adel-
mann, and then the young officers were a Count Szeil, whose
father is a Prince and his cousin young Baron Ensberg, whose
castle we saw not far from Sigmaringen.

Last night we had a big dinner in the Hall and General
von Camerer drank to your health. In the afternoon we went
out to see them inspect the horses but it was not very much.

THE BRIDAL COUPLE IN' THE GARDEN, HOHEXSTADT

We all sat up very late and the General and I make as much
fun as possible where neither can speak the other's language.
To-day they had a grand dinner at 8 o'clock with fish and
ice cream and champagne and the regimental band had as-
sembled from all round the country and while we were eating
they stood in the churchyard, where the fire works were and
played beautifully. The programs were written out and put
on the table. After dinner they played the Washington Post
for Cliff and myself and I sent them down red, white and

387

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

blue China Asters tied with some red, white and blue ribbon
and the leader pinned them on his shoulder and saluted and
I had to bow at the window. All these fine uniforms make
it seem very stately and fine.

We spent the afternoon in the garden, the young officers
and the boys played croquet and all drank beer and now
they are ready for another meal. It is nothing but eat and
drink all day long. There were twenty at table to-day.

Countess Adelmann sends her regards and regrets that
you could not have stayed to see the officers. The General
has been threatening to serenade me and this morning he
sent the chief trumpeter and stood him in the Hall in front
of my door and played the reveille. You can imagine the
noise. I do hope Sam is feeling better and I am so sorry he
went into such a hot climate. I hope to get a letter from you,
as none came to-day. I wonder if you go Friday afternoon
or Saturday morning to Cherbourg. Hoping you are both
well, with much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Hohenstadt,

Thursday noon, Aug. 23rd, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

The Uhlans were magnificent on horseback. We got up
early to see them off, as they got up a special parade for me
and the trumpeters played on horseback in front of our
windows and we watched them all wind away down hill.
They looked taller and more imposing than our cavalry,
with their lances upright and it was a magnificent sight.

I fear it is too late to send this letter to Paris and you
don't name your Hotel at Cherbourg so we can only send to
the ship and hope you will get it. Your two letters came to-day,
Thursday, at ten o'clock, so I will telegraph to Hotel Columbia
to-day. I also miss you very much and am only diverted a
little by all this excitement. With best love and hopes for a
safe voyage. Your aff. M. D. R.

GERAIANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Dear Father,

The Uhlans left here this morning and we got up to see
them off. At ten a. m. we went to see a little play at the
kindergarten and it was really very good. The story was
taken from Hansel and Gretel. This afternoon we drive and
"bike" to Fachsenfeld. At this time of year you should
meet pleasanter people on the St. Paul than we did coming
over. Well with best wishes for clear weather, smooth seas
and a pleasant company,

Clifford.

Hohenstadt, Aug. 24th, 1900.
Dear Laura,

I am quite crazy when I remember that I haven't written
to you since Innsbruck and how things have accumulated
since then! We left Innsbruck Monday morning, Aug. 13th
in the train as far as Imst, where we found a carriage waiting
for us. W^e lost no time getting off as it was a long way to
Hohenschwangau. Our way lay through several villages
filled with Austrian soldiers who were most picturesque as
we saw them around the village fountains and across the
celebrated Fern Pass, the most beautiful of all the Passes.
We were very fortunate in having the most glorious weather
possible and the high mountains with bare rock summits, a
pale pink color, towering above our heads and contrasting
with the green forests below, were something wonderful.

We enjoyed lunching at a little village on the Austrian
frontier and took tea at Lermoos and then on to Reutle and
Fiissen. At Fiissen the railroad comes in but we went on to
the Alpen Rosen at Hohenschwangau, getting there in time
for a table d'hote supper. We were glad to get a room as
the whole country is swarming with tourists going to and
coming from Oberammergau, and who take in the Royal
Castles at the same time.

That night our decision not to go to Oberammergau began
to waver and we concluded that when we were so near people

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

would think us fools not to go so we told the porter to tele-
graph if we could get a room and seats in the Theatre and we
would decide in the morning. I found my bed wet and cold
and had a real shaking chill and got up and put on some
things and my fur lined circular on top and took brandy and
finally got warm. In the morning I found myself all right
again. The porter had secured accommodations for us so it
was decided we should drive from there in the afternoon.

SCHLOSS HOHENSCHWANGAU

So the morning was given up to the Castle of Neuschwan-
stein, built by King Ludwig on the foundations of an old
castle in the most romantic location, on top of a high crag
with great rocky gorges all around it and higher mountains
with cataracts of water dashing down into the gorges. It is
built all of white stone and is dazzling to look at — is modeled
somewhat after the Wartburg at Eisenach. The great hall
of the Troubadours has a stage at one end and here Ludwig
used to have the Wagner Opera given for himself alone.

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GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Magnificent scarcely expresses the costliness of all the deco-
rations. One room was all of foliage in wood carving, gilded,
coming way out from the corners and spreading over the
ceiling. The frescoes were all of subjects from the Parsifal,
of Wolfram von Eschingen and the Niebelungen and Lohen-

NEUSCHWANSTEIN
Castle of the King of Bavaria

grin, as this is the country associated with the Swan legend
and everywhere through the castle the swan was in every-
thing, blue and white leather cushions with swan design,
embroidered on the curtains.

In the dining room the centre piece for flowers was a great
white swan. On some of the balconies you could imagine

391

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Elsa just as in the Opera. The other castle Hohenschwangau,
"High swan place" happened to be occupied by one of the
royal family and so could not be seen, so we ate our lunch
and started off" for Oberammergau by the shortest road, with

GORGEOUS ROOM IN NEUSCHWANSTEIN

all our luggage behind us, as we were to come back to Fiissen
to take the train after the Passion Play.

A delightful drive through pine forests and a long pull up
the valley and we arrived at Oberammergau and had to let
the horses walk through the village so great was the crowd of
people. Young Ben Reath rushed up to us to know if Clifford

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GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

was there, otherwise we saw no one we knew, but at the
Hotel, which was across the Httle river and not in the main
street, we found two men who had been in the same Hotel
in Munich.

We got our supper quickly and hearing cannons going
oflf and music rushed back to the village. There every one
was out and the village band was playing, the balconies and
even the streets close by the houses were filled with people
eating and others were in the shops. I saw such beautiful
things but unfortunately as the light was poor decided to
wait until the next day, thinking that I would get time to
look at things in the daylight, and as it rained terribly I
never got a chance to see anything.

We had a very nice room and good food at our Hotel and
had a good night's rest. We had to get up at 6.30 to dress and
breakfast and get to the Theatre by 8 o'clock. It was a
curious sight to see the throngs of people all converging
towards that one spot and filling the many entrances. I
found the two Sands were next to me and some very aristo-
cratic looking Germans, also a gay widow who came over on
the ship with us.

The play is opened by the Chorus, like in the old Greek
plays, who explain the following scene and the tableaux.
Then comes a tableau from the Old Testament, then a scene
of the play. The Chorus became a little tiresome after 8
hours, but the tableaux were wonderful, the throngs of people
and the different colors of the costumes and the gorgeous
ones of the High Priests of the Sanhedrim and of the Roman
Pilate and soldiers and the streets of Jerusalem, made a never-
to-be-forgotten scene.

The entrance of Christ on the Ass, with the people acclaim-
ing and waving palms, was very impressive. After the first
hour I began to feel very ill (the result of my chill) and
concluded to go out. I told Frank not to follow and I managed
to get an "einspanner" and get back to the Hotel, where I
lay down and got warm and dry and got relief from pain.

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EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

In the afternoon the play began at 1.30 and I went, after
a good dose of medicine, and sat it through all right but I
had to ride both ways as everything was soaked with rain
and afloat.

It was all a wonderful picture and most impressive,
especially the crucifixion. The Christus was like the best
pictures, but of course one couldn't expect the expression in
the face. He was very sad and pensive and the bearing of
the cross and the tormenting and scourging by the Roman
soldier was terrible. He was hanging on the cross eighteen
minutes. It looked exactly as if the nails went through the
hands and feet and there was no visible support. When
they forced the crown of thorns down on his head and the
blood trickled down it was terrible. Then when he died on
the cross and everything became dark and there was terrific
thunder, it was wonderful, right out of doors as it was.

We have brought books and pictures to show something
of it all. It was still raining the next morning when we left
at a quarter before six in our same carriage to drive back
over the same way to Fiissen. We had an hour to spare and
visited the fine old castle, where the Archbishops of Augs-
burg used to live, and is now used by the Government for
offices. It is a magnificent old castle on a hill arid below it
on the river an old straggling monastery in a corner of which
are still left some portions of the old city wall and a tower.

From the train after leaving Fiissen we had our most
impressive view of Neuschwanstein, it seeming much longer
and more spread out than from the other positions we had
seen it.

We arrived at Lindau on the Boden-See to find a lovely
Hotel on the lake, with a balcony out of our room overlooking
the Harbor and we dined delightfully on the veranda and
watched the crowds of people off and on the boats going to
Bregenz, Constance, and dozens of places. It was a great
change from the primitiveness of our last few days.

The next morning we went by boat to Friedrichshafen

394

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

and dined and drove about and then came by fast train here
via Ulm. We drove up here in an hour and a half and found
the other guests arriving and Clifford here.

They had two suppers that night, each of not less than
ten or a dozen people. I am so tired that I will send this off
and write the description of Saturday and the Silver Wedding
on Sunday, 19th, another time. Frank left Monday after-
noon and met Sam in Paris, Tuesday, and is to-day travelling
to Cherbourg to sail to-morrow.

I have no plans for the present after leaving here. Shall
wait to hear of Sam's condition after he gets back. With
love to all,

Aff'ly., M. D. R.

Hohenstadt, Aug. 25th, 1900.
Dear Laura,

Your letter came this morning inclosed in one from Frank,
who is now, to-day, in Cherbourg and will soon be on the
St. Paul with Sam. The latter wishes to go, much to my
regret, as the climate is so much better here. He will be far
better off in Jamestown than in Philadelphia and cannot get
there until October, as I cannot have the house ready.

I wrote you of our doings up to the time we arrived at
Hohenstadt. There is so much I would like to tell, but it is
really impossible to write everything. All day Saturday
they were busy decorating with flags and flowers and putting
up a long table in the Hall. The Countess' brother, the
Baron von Briisselle, is a remarkably handsome man, blonde
and tall and most beautiful features. He also speaks English
perfectly. He arrived Friday evening with a cousin, Baronin
von Briisselle and a Frau von Fischer, who was an Adelmann
and whose husband is a General. Another Cousin General
von Camerer, is the head of the family. Then there was
another Count Adelmann and the other Adelmann family,
who occupy the floor under this.

Early on Sunday morning we got up and dressed and had

395

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

breakfast, then all the Adelmann family formed in line.
Aleantime the church was decorated and all the better class
of villagers had formed in line on each side of the street,
among them all the old soldiers. Then the band took its
place and began to play as soon as the Adelmanns issued
from the castle gate. Cliff and I stood inside between the
castle and church to see them pass.

VILLAGE FOLK PARADING FOR THE SILVER WEDDING

First came two little nieces in white with blonde hair
hanging down their backs and each holding a blue velvet
cushion out in front of them on which rested one a silver
wreath and the other a bunch of silver flowers — then came
the Count and Countess, he in frock coat and high hat and
she in a purple satin foulard with lace and a pretty little
bonnet, then the family after them. As they entered the
church door the organ pealed forth and we flew up the tower
stairs to our proscenium box in time to see them come up
into the chancel, where there were seats on each side like

396

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

priedieu's to accommodate the whole of them. The Priest
was very nice looking — wore the most gorgeous chasuble you
can imagine, over a white linen robe edged with deep lace.
The service was long and towards the end the Count and
Countess came out from the side and knelt on a priedieu in

GATE OF CASTLE HOHENSTADT

THE^PROCESSION TO THE CHURCH

COMING OUT OF CHURCH AFTER
THE CEREMONY

THE RETURN TO THE CASTLE

the middle and the priest made some address and then he
held the Evangels for each of them to kiss and then the
.service ended with some fine music and they marched out
again between the lines of people and the band playing.

They then received all the villagers in the great Hall and
^ave them sherry and cake. After lunch we all retired to

397

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

rest for the dinner, to be at six o'clock. I wore my jet evening
dress for the first time, much I fear to the scandal of the two
priests present. None of the other women had real evening
dress, but some had low linings and mine looked very well
with the gorgeous uniforms of the men.

General Camerer was magnificent in full uniform covered
with orders, among them the iron cross. The others all had a
beautiful order hung from a red velvet sort of yoke which lay

SCHLOSS AND CHURCH, HOHEXSTADT

below the collar and then strings of orders across the left
breast. Count Adelmann and Baron Briisselle also had two
gilt buttons at the back of the waist which they wear now
instead of the big golden key, as Chamberlains to the King
of Wiirtemburg.

The Baron has been everywhere in Europe with the King
and told me many interesting experiences as he took me to
dinner. The Count and Countess sat side by side in the middle
of one side of the table and opposite them the General with

398

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

his Aunt, the Baron Briisselle and myself came next and the
other members of the family, and then village functionaries
and the priests. None of the neighbors were invited as there
were 21 people at table as it was.

They used the celebrated service of Marie Antoinette
china with tiny blue flowers made at the factory she estab-
lished near Paris and which only existed a very few years,
so it is now very rare. There are two pieces of it in the

THE WEDDING COUPLE, FRIENDS, AND RELATIVES IN THE GARDEN

Museum at Sevres. In the middle of the table was a cake
2 ft. high from Pomerania called a Baumkuchen and looked
like the stem of a fern palm. It was stuck over with blue and
white flags and then at intervals down the table were jar-
dinieres of the china service filled with alternately blue and
white flowers and green asparagus, &c., were strewn between
the dishes and silver flowers fastened to them — china plates
filled with delicious cakes and bonbons completed the table
decoration.

As soon as the dinner was well under way Sigmund got

399

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

up to read the telegrams which were 96 in number, 5 of them
from royal personages and that was all most interesting.
Then the General as the oldest of the connection rose and
made an address and asked us to drink the health of the
Count and Countess and then they all gave utterance to
three "Hoch's!" and it was very stirring.

Just then came trooping into the room six or eight of the
strangest figures dressed in long frock coats, short breeches

•HOCH!"

and long white stockings and fur caps each with an instru-
ment, then one of them came forward to Count Adelmann
and taking off his cap said, "We are the musicians of your
great-great-grandfather Joseph Anselm and we want to play
some old music." So they began to play with great vigor and
after the different speeches, when they all gave their three
Hoch's, they played a sort of accompaniment, like this, with
each one. Do-mi-sol-do.

I never saw a more beautiful sight than the Hall and the

dinner, the big glass chandeliers with their lights and the

400

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

portraits and gallery, and the long table and the bright colors
of the flowers and uniforms and the musicians. The great
tree cake was cut with much ceremony and the Count thanked
every one for their good wishes and Raban made a speech
requesting all to drink to the health of the Rosengarten
family and then all the men came trooping round to touch
my glass with theirs and gave us the three hoch's and the
musicians played, and there was altogether a great time.

MUSICIANS OF JOSEPH AXSELM AT THE WEDDING BANQUET, HOHENSTADT

At each plate there was a photo of the Count and Countess

and the chocolates were done in blue and white paper with

a picture of the castle on them, which we kept for souvenirs.

Then at the last one of the little girls In white came Into the

room with a basket and passed around to each one a ribbon

favor, blue and white knot and streamers, with the dates of

the two weddings, which we pinned on our shoulders. After

dinner and cofi"ee the village choir came In and stood up In

the gallery and sang glees. During the evening the General

played accompaniments and the men sang their old student
26 401

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

corps songs of Tiibingcn and Frank was perfectly happy.
Then the musicians played for dancing and everybody danced
and it was one o'clock before we finally dispersed.

The musicians had found their costumes among the
peasants' old houses and they were just such as were worn at
that old time. The next day Frank left for Paris and Baron
Briisselle and his cousins also, as on Tuesday the soldiers
were to appear on the scene to spend two days on their w^ay
to the manoeuvres. Clifford was moved into the room next
to mine and the big table was left in the Hall, as we were to
eat there w^hile the officers were here.

The next morning just as I was ready for breakfast I
heard a tramping and looked out of the window to the front
street and saw the Uhlans trooping along with their long
lances, poised on their stirrups, and in beautiful uniforms,
then carriages and great covered wagons, which were left
under the trees at the side of the street. I went into the
breakfast room and said "there is a whole army arriving"
and sure enough officers and all had arrived much earlier
than was expected and had to have an extra breakfast.

There were five officers, each with a servant and a horse
to be quartered in the castle, and the others were in the
village, but came to dinner that evening. There was a Baron
von Gemmingen, a cousin of Countess Adelmann's, a young
Count Szeil, whose Father is a Prince, and so on. As they were
only passing through there were no parades, only an examina-
tion of the horses at 4 p. m. by two of the younger officers,
so that evening we had only dinner with about 15 people at
table and it all looked very fine with the uniforms of the officers
and the flowers and lights.

The General and I are having great fun with each other
and he said he was going to serenade me at six o'clock the next
morning. I said I thought it was rather early and thought
no more about it. I had just gotten up at 8 a. m. the next
morning when the most terrific trumpeting started up outside

my door and there outside in the Hall stood the trumpeter,

402

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

in full uniform, playing the reveille, and their uniforms are
handsomer than our generals'.

There was a big dinner in the middle of the day of at least
21 people. I was much teased about my serenade. They
had an early dinner and invited the other officers and young
Baron von Ensberg and another officer came also from Adel-
mannsfelden, where they were staying, and all the family
from down stairs and we had another great dinner, with
menus at each plate, and, between, a musical programme.
The regimental band had been collected and played beau-
tifully through the whole dinner, really fine selections.

After dinner we stood at the castle windows looking
across the moat to where they stood in the church yard.
Then Count Adelmann requested them to play the Washington
Post in our honor. Then I got together a red and a white and
a blue China Aster bouquet tied together with a piece of red
white and blue ribbon and Clifford and Raban went down
and presented it to the leader with my thanks, and he then
saluted me as I stood at the window.

The officers dance a peculiar dance to the Washington
Post and were quite surprised that we knew nothing about it.
Clifford must introduce it. We spent the last afternoon in
the garden where they drank beer and played croquet. In
the evening a light supper and tea after, music and dancing,
and then bed.

The soldiers were to leave at seven o'clock in the morning
and as I expressed some disappointment at not seeing them
"en parade" they arranged to leave here, in full marching
order, parading through the village street but had to dis-
mount to go down the very steep hill and I was amply repaid
for getting up. The uniforms are so fine and the helmets
attached by long w^hite cords to the shoulder of the coat,
then the long lances, erect, they certainly looked formidable
enough, and I could readily imagine how the French women
and children raved when the cry was raised, "The Uhlans are

coming."

403

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

They looked so very high and big. We followed to the
garden and watched them wind along down the steep hill and
along the white road in the valley and as they turned and
vanished they were all singing soldier songs. The General
says as he can't marry me he is going to wait for little Laura,
whom I have promised to bring over. The next day I cannot
describe I am so tired, but will send this off and perhaps by
the time you get it Frank will be with you and can tell you all
about it. We hope his pictures will be good, as he took many.
With much love to all,

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

The village choir and band came and sang old German
hymns under the windows, very interesting music. Count
Adelmann had to go down and make a speech and was very
much affected, there were also fireworks.

Hohenstadt, Aug. 26, 1900.
Dear Frank,

Your letter of Friday has just come to hand. I am sur-
prised to find you did not go to Cherbourg.

Thursday morning Mechtilde asked us to go over to the
little school she is interested in as they were to give a little
play. They had a little stage with trees on it and played
Hansel and Gretel and it was too cunning. Two tiny little
things dressed in costume and barefooted took the two parts
and did very well. Before the curtain rose five little girls and
boys, from 3 to 6 years old, stood in a row dressed in their best
and with bouquets in their hands, and one after the other
made a little speech and presented their bouquets.

It was just like the German children's picture books and I

thought of Clara all the time. I was in the front row with

Count and Countess Adelmann and we were so near we could

touch them. It was too cunning when they began "hochge-

borne Herrschaft" and all that sort of thing, and their funny

little high voices. You would have been delighted with it

404

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

all. Raban took pictures of everything so perhaps he will
give me some.

In the afternoon we went to call at a neighboring castle,
Baron Konig, who receives on Thursdays. Countess Adel-
mann, Sigmund and I in the victoria and Mechtilde drove a
dog cart with Clifford beside her and Raban behind. We
went to Abtsgemund and turned off the opposite way from
Aalen. Count A. was not very well that day and concluded
to stay at home.

We drove in through the village which was not very clean,
but passing through an archway we were suddenly in the
most beautiful garden, laid out in carpet designs and the
entrance to the house quite on a level with the ground. It
seems it used to be a castle, but they rebuilt the lower floor,
changing it into a modern country house. It had a wide hall
like our houses and rooms opening on each side. They led
us through several rooms to the other side of the house and
they had been seated on the small veranda and so we sat
there awhile and there was a beautifully spread table down
at the left up against the house.

A man in livery brought coffee and tea and they gave us
the most delicious bread and butter and currant tart and cakes
I ever tasted. Anything like the way these people eat I never
saw. The old Baron is very proud of his treasures and showed
them to me.

The right wing was an immense drawing room, which
also opened on the garden like the French houses and every-
thing was immaculate, not a scrap of dust to be seen anywhere,
so I find there are good housekeepers here too. They had
most wonderful old Majolica and other china and I was
much interested. The son had travelled in America and came
back with Raban, and they had an interesting book of postal
cards.

Friday it was rather rainy and we did nothing but write.
It has taken me two mornings to describe the silver wedding
and the soldiers to Laura and I ought to write it to Lina also.

405

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Yesterday afternoon we spent in the garden and walking
about. The atmosphere was remarkably clear and anything
more beautiful than the light on the far away hills would be
hard to conceive. We took a long walk along the brow of the
hill coming out across a big field and in through the stables
on the outer side of the street from the castle. Everything
was swept and garnished for Sunday, even the streets and the
stables seemed perfectly clean.

Today, Sunday, we are to dine at the "Adler" instead of
at home. Tuesday Count A. goes back to Sigmaringen.
Wednesday we are to go to Ellwangen. Baron Brusselle has
written his sister to let him know when we will be in Stuttgart
as he will come in to show us about. With much love from
all to all, and hoping for a cablegram as soon as you arrive,

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

Hohenstadt, Wed., Aug. 29th, 1900.
Dear Father,

By the time you get this you will have been at home a
w^eek and I hope satisfied. We have been very quiet lately.
Raban and I have been out pheasant shooting twice and have
proved ourselves very bad shots, but I enjoyed the walks
and the exercise. We have paid two formal visits, one to
Baron Konig and family and one to Baron Velvarts. The
latter is a cousin of Hermann's. They say Hermann is at
home on a visit but we shall not write to him.

To-morrow we go to Ellwangen for the day and I suppose
we will do some shopping there. We leave here Saturday
afternoon and go to Stuttgart where we spend two days,
then going slowly to Paris by way of Lake Constance and the
Vosges. I think we arrive in Paris about the 15th September.

Graf Adelmann left yesterday morning and we miss him

very much. Raban went with him as far as Stuttgart and

came back this morning. The Countess Mechtilde and I

drove out to Mozlingen in the dogcart to meet him. This

afternoon walked across the valley to top of hill over the

406

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Crockerluf farm. Splendid view with Adelmannsfelden in
distance. The weather is much colder. Mother well. With
best wishes for Sam's better condition,

Cliff.

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart,
Sun., Sept. 2nd, 1900.
Dear Father,

We left Hohenstadt yesterday afternoon and arrived
here for supper where we found the cable from you announc-
ing your safe arrival. Mother did not get up for breakfast
as she is tired and has a slight cold but will come down
for lunch.

Friday afternoon the people from Adelmannsfelden came
over to Hohenstadt and spent the afternoon. They all spoke
English so that it was very pleasant. We expect to leave
here Tuesday morning and go I think to Lake Constance.
Then to Lucerne, Zurich, the Vosges (6 days) Strasbourg and
afterwards Paris.

Mother expects Baron Bruselle will call tomorrow, Monday,
and show her the curiosity shops. We drove to Elwangen
the other day and she bought some things there. One old
glass with C. A. and a crown on one side and a bishop's head
on the other. There was a Christopher Adelmann, who was
a bishop.* She also got a beautiful clergyman's surplice of
brocade for $2.}4 and this certainly was a bargain. Also a
big german silver thing which she expects to make into a
hall lamp. Hoping you and Sam will be very comfortable,
and find nice people at Jamestown, With love, J. C. R.

Hotel Marquardt, Stuttgart,

September 2nd, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

We were delighted to get your cablegram last evening.
It was handed us at the supper table soon after our arrival.
We left Hohenstadt in the same train you did. All the family

*This curious cut glass goblet is at 1905 Walnut Street now.

407

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

from both Etages came down to see us start and the Gen-
eral at the last moment presented me with a large bouquet.
Countess Adelmann and Mechtilde and Raban rode part of
the way with us and then walked back. Clifford and I cer-
tainly felt very badly at leaving them. Perhaps we stayed
too long, but I proposed going last Thursday but they wouldn't
hear of it and arranged an excursion to EUwangen for the
whole day.

I wrote you on Sunday last and I think it was on Monday
that we drove in the afternoon to Laubach in Leinthal, an
old Burg, with double moat and lots of towers, a most inter-

ADELMANNSFELDEN CASTLE AT ELLWANGEN

esting place, the home of the von Wellwarths. There was
the usual sit-down tea with a big Apfelkuchen and all kinds
of cakes and there was a dungeon where the prisoners were
let down with a rope and then covered up. Of course the
Baron gave me his arm and escorted me everywhere through
the home. I wrote little Laura a postal with a picture of it,
but it does not do it justice as the trees hide the prettiest side.
Thursday was arranged the long-expected excursion to EU-
wangen. We drove all the way, starting at nine o'clock and
arriving at half past eleven. Countess Adelmann had made
an appointment with the Doctor, so we went sightseeing
without her, Cliff, Sigmund and myself. The old house in

the town was very fine, built in the Italian Renaissance

408

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

style and containing fine old rooms hung, some with brocade
and some with Gobelin tapestries and the staircase was
beautiful. We walked through the town and then to the
Antiquary's before going to dinner at the Hotel Adler.

The houses were very interesting with very wide gable
ends turned towards the street. I bought a few things, among
others an old church lamp for 25 marks and it is shipped to
America, as old metal, and you must be on the lookout for it.
I got also a large glass, i. e.^ a little larger than an ordinary
tumbler, with the initials C. A. and a mitre and crown which
proved to be the Prince Bishop Adelmann's who ruled in the
i6th century and they think it must have belonged to him.
Sigmund was quite in despair but I said I wanted to keep it
for the very reason that it had the Adelmann name on it.
It cost 20 marks.

After dinner we went into the church which is Norman
on the outside and Baroque inside, and the Adelmann coat
of arms is everywhere. It has a choir like the English cathe-
drals and they now wish to restore the Norman interior as
they find the Norman stonework is still in existence under
the plaster — they have knocked it away in places and find
the round stone columns and every detail just as it should be.
After the church we drove up a high hill to the old Schloss,
which was the residence of the Prince Bishops who were
rulers as well as Bishops and now is used by the Government.
It is a magnificent castle with a moat and two courts and the
staircase of the inner court is very fine.

One of these Prince Bishops was a Christopher Adelmann
and he built a very large church on this same hill, to which
pilgrimages are now made. It is a very beautiful rococo
aflfair, with very fine wood carvings and the stucco is very
elaborate. He is buried in this church and it was his brother
who built the house in the town of Ellwangen.

I was pretty well tired out with that excursion. I hope

you got our letters written to the ship, and thought you would

have sent a postal from Cherbourg, but got nothing. Of

course we shall be very anxious to get your first letters.

409

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We shall stay here to-morrow, Baron von Brusselle having
asked his sister to let him know when we were to be in Stutt-
gart, offered to come in and show us about and we expect
him tomorrow. We shall go on Tuesday to Constanz and
Zurich and Lucerne, Basle and from Mulhausen make a
week's trip through the Vosges to Strasbourg. General von
Camerer made out a nice trip for us and so we have about
decided to go.

I hope we may have a nice day in Lucerne to make an
excursion up Pilatus and get one general view of Switzerland.
We are most comfortable here, had a delicious dinner and I
have a front room.

I waited to see if Baron Brusselle would come and have
just had two letters from Hohenstadt, saying he would not
be able to come, and that they all missed us very much, &c., &c.,
and the general signed himself General Donnerwetter! WVite
me all about Sam. With much love,

Most aff'ly, M. D. R.

Hotel d'Angleterre, Lucerne,

Sept. 6th, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

I don't know where you both are or whether you are both
together. I was delighted that you had such a quick trip
home and judge it must have been a quiet one. I wrote you
last in Stuttgart where we spent a rainy Sunday and I was
feeling miserable so did not see much on Monday.

We left Tuesday morning early for Constance, where we
had perfect weather and stayed in the old Benedictine mon-
astery on an island, Insel-Hotel. Our rooms were over the
cloisters and looked down into the court, with fountain and
beautiful flowers. John Huss was confined in the tower of
this monastery. The dining room was formerly the church
and had two rows of pillars. The old Refectorium was the
cafe and everything in the place was most interesting. Li

Ekkehard it tells about the people taking refuge in this

410

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

monastery, when the Huns overran that part of Germany.
The gardens on the lake side were most beautiful and alto-
gether I wouldn't have missed it.

Wednesday we came on to Zurich which we liked very
much, though we had noisy back rooms on the court. The
Landesmuseum was perfectly fine and worth staying over
for — then we came here and much to our disappointment
couldn't get in at the Schweizer Hof, although I had written

"BAUR AU LAC." ZURICH

a week ahead. The races are going on and Duse is playing
here and the big hotels are full.

Yesterday afternoon Cliff and I were driving about when
we saw the Watsons disappear into a store and they were as
glad to see us as we wxre to see them, so we arranged to go
up the Pilatus to-day and to be with them to-morrow. We
shall leave about six in the afternoon for Basle and begin our
trip to the Vosges and probably be in Paris in another week.
I am so dead tired I must stop, so hoping to hear from you
soon and with much love to Sam.

Your aff. wife, M. D. R.

411

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Top of Pilatus, 2.30 P. M.
Friday, Sept. 7th, 1900.
Dear Frank,

Just a few words while Clifford, Mr. Watson and myself
are waiting for our colTee, before going up to the platform
to look at the view. It was a fearful ride up on the car,
but Mrs. W. was much more nervous than I. I don't like
the going down very much, but we have the most perfect

THE TOP OF PILATUS

day of the season, absolutely clear and the coloring beyond

words to describe.

Love to all, M. D. R.

Munster Hotel,
Munster, Sept. 9th, 1900.
Dear Father,

Here we are in a nasty little place and absolutely uncer-
tain of what we are going to do. The hotel is no more like
the picture than black is to white. We have been in Switzer-
land and met Mr. and Mrs. Watson at Lucerne and went up
Pilatus with them. Mother enjoyed Constance and Zurich.
We read in the N. Y. Herald that your trip was a record one,
so that we are pleased to think that you must have had
pleasant weather.

With best wishes to you and Sam. Cliff.

412

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

Hotel Altenburg, Munster,

Sept. nth, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

Not a word as yet from you, but we hope for a letter at
Strasbourg. This is a perfect hotel, 3600 ft. up, and with
everything new and comfortable, perfect cleanliness, every
convenience and our rooms only 4 marks. We came from
Basle to Colmar on Sunday and came on to Munster for the
night, thinking it would be more comfortable, but it was
dreadfully dirty. We were delayed a whole day by not being
able to draw money on Sunday. We couldn't draw German
money before we got to Colmar so I waited at Munster and
Clifford went back to Colmar early Monday morning and
got the money and we drove up here in the afternoon, having
lost 24 hours, as we could have come right through to here
Sunday night.

We are just a little below the Schlucht or summit and the
view down over the Munster Thai is exquisite. We go on in
carriage to Gerardmer, over the summit and into France to
breakfast at the Hotel du Lac and return here for to-night.
To-morrow we go on back to Colmar and up to Oberrheinheim
where we get off to drive to the Odilienberg and perhaps
get to Strasbourg to-morrow night. From there to Metz where
we drive over the battlefields and make an excursion to Treves,
where are wonderful Roman remains, back to Metz and fast
train to Paris.

We are having wonderful weather, though a little too
hazy for clear view. I telegraphed to Emma to meet us at
Gerardmer to-day but she answered it was impossible and
they were going to Paris Sept. 15th. I suppose we shall get
there Monday 17th.

The Marquis of Salisbury is here. As I came out from
breakfast on the enclosed glass veranda I met him and had a
good look at him — he is big and broad like Father but not
as tall and has blue eyes and wears a black skull cap just as
Father did.

At the table d'hote the people all looked first class and

413

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

those near me were Americans, but spoke French Hke natives.
The mother afterwards told me her daughter was married to
a French engineer and she had lost her son, also an engineer,
six weeks ago^died from overwork and paralysis. She
spends her time over here. Years ago she spent six years
at the Marquardt, Stuttgart, and knew von Gemmingens
and von Camerer. I must try to find out their names. She
is from Kentucky. I would love to stay here two or three
weeks with a friend or two. It is such a perfect comfort.
Farewell, with much love for both.

Your afT. M. D. R.

Hotel Angleterre, Strasbourg,

Sept. 13th, 1900.
Dear Father,

Here we are at last out of the Vosges and well on our way
to Paris, which we expect to reach Sunday or Monday. We
have had wonderful luck with the weather as it has been
quite clear and allowed us to take a great many long drives.
The Vosges were very beautiful but awfully lonely. From
here we go to Metz and drive over the battlefields of 70-71
and then go to Treves and see the Old Roman remains.
Your letters have just come for Mother and have been sent
up to her. I expect to read them with great pleasure. We
go to the Hotel Athenee. Metz I do not believe will interest
us very much as we do not know who commanded the differ-
ent army corps and which regiments were most concerned.
But Treves I am sure we will enjoy. The guide book which I
have been reading says that it has the finest Roman remains
outside of Italy. With much love to you and Sam.

Sincerely, Cliff.

Hotel Porta Nigra, Trier,

Sept. 15th, 1900.
Dear Frank,

Just a few words before leaving Treves, as I know I won't
have time again for several days. We were going to take
the one o'clock train, but there was so much that was inter-

414

GERMANY, SWITZERLAND AND AUSTRIA

esting to see and the Hotel is so comfortable and the coffee
so remarkably good that Clifford absolutely proposed staying
until the six o'clock train. Just now we were taking coffee
and bread and butter (as we will get "kein abend-essen")
and sitting in the glass terrace overlooking the great three
story Roman gate and the boy playing the hose over the
street, for the heat and dust are terrific, when a whole regi-
ment of artillery came in and some of the officers came in to
refresh and eat here. They are a splendid looking lot of men
and very formal with each other. They were white with dust

J ] \

PORTA NIGRA, TRIER

and Clifford and I were the same yesterday after driving to
Gravelotte — it is like around St. Louis.

We spend to-night in Metz and take the fastest train to
Paris, which leaves at noon, and gets in at six p. m. I shall
have Mrs. Watson to go about with. I only hope this heat
will not continue, it seems unbearable after the cool air of
Hohenstadt and the Vosges. I was delighted you had such
a comfortable trip home, but I am sure you and Sam have
already repented. How I wish you wxre here with your
camera to take pictures of these wonderful things. I must stop.

Aff. M. D. R.

415

FRANCE

Paris, Sept. i8th, 1900
Dear Father,

We are staying at the Bedford Hotel back of the Made-
leine and hope to get into theFrance et Choiseul to-day or
to-morrow. Last night we dined at the Tour d'Argent. Saw
Pepper for a few minutes before he left for London to sail for
America. Treves was really fine and we would have liked to
stay longer. We are surprised and grieved to hear of Dr.
DaCosta's death, but as yet have received no details.

With love,

J. C. R.

Bedford Hotel, Paris.

Sept. 1 8th, 1900.
Dear Frank and Sam,

Clifford says he wrote this morning, but as I have a little
leisure time before lunch I must utilize the time. Later
when we are settled I will find out what days the mails go and
have special days for writing.

When we arrived hot and dusty Sunday night they

couldn't take care of us but sent us on here, where we have

two dirty noisy rooms, but they are a good deal better than

none. We had a terrible time getting away from the station —

I was really frightened at the crowd, and if the man in control

416

FRANCE

had not given us a cab that had been ordered for someone
else, I don't know when we would have got away.

Yesterday Clifford went to the Hotel de France and
Choiseul and we are to get in there to-day and move into
other rooms to-morrow. I went to the Regina to lunch and
Cliff went to see Pepper off. It is so very hot here that any
exercise is uncomfortable, and it hasn't rained for weeks and
the whole of France is parched and burned up. The Watsons
will be here and probably Mrs. Hazard will soon be back and
I shall look up the Christophersons as soon as we are settled.
I am tired out and shall keep quiet until this hot spell is over.

You cannot imagine the crowds, they are something
fearful. As I was walking to the Regina yesterday along the
Rue de Rivoli, who should come up beside me but Henrietta
Tower, now Mrs. Wurts of Rome, with her husband whom
she introduced. She is wonderfully improved in appearance
and was very nice and cordial. I forgot to ask where they
were staying. Hoping to hear often of Sam's improvement
and with love to you, Laura and all,

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

THE JOURNEYS OF 1903

These long-thought-of journeys, even proposed in 1869, were
undertaken after prolonged study and carefully arranged
details and accomplished with delight.*

Sailing on the Steamship Auguste Victoria from New York
on February 3rd, 1903, with a most interesting lot of passen-
gers, the first stop was made at Madeira, then Gibraltar and
rail trips to Granada and the Alhambra, Algeciras, Ronda,
Andalusia and Malaga in Spain. Then to Algiers, Blidah, Chiffa,
Genoa, around the Bordighera to Nice, Monte Carlo, Ischia
and Ville Franche. Then began the journey to the East,
the Holy Land and Egypt.

This included a visit to Syracuse in Sicily, Malta, Nauplia,
Mycenae, Kalamaki, Corinth, Athens and the Piraeus in
Greece, on to the Dardanelles and the Sea of Marmora, through
the Bosphorus to Constantinople, Scutari and a run to the
Black Sea. Then to Cyprus and to Beyrout, Damascus,
Rayak, and Baalbec.

Thence to Joppa and Jerusalem, the Mount of Olives,
Jericho, Dead Sea and the River Jordan.

Sailing from Joppa, to Alexandria in Egypt and thence to
Cairo and Luxor.

The return journey from Alexandria was made by way of
Palermo, Messina, Taormina, Naples, Rome and Paris, and
sailing for New York on May 8th, 1903.

* The plans of travel were so carefully studied out and arranged that a cablegram
could have reached her almost any time on the journey.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1903

TOUR ON S. S. AUGUSTE VICTORIA,— AZORES, GIBRALTAR, GRANADA
AND THE ALHAMBRA, ALGIERS, SICILY, GENOA, RIVIERA, GREECE, MALTA,
CONSTANTINOPLE, HOLY LAND, JERUSALEM, ETC., ALEXANDRIA, CAIRO,
LUXOR, ETC., IN EGYPT; NAPLES, ROME, PARIS.

Aboard S. S. Auguste

Victoria Feb.

The "Star Spangled Ban-
ner" Feb.

Guardabassi Feb.

Madeira Feb.

Rough landing Feb.

Wonderful views Feb.

Bullock Carts Feb.

Funchal Feb.

Mosaic Patterns in Street
Paving Feb.

Funicular to the Church
2000 ft Feb.

Steep hills, reminders of
Clovelly Feb.

Wonderful color effects
and flowers Feb.

Climate wonderful Feb.

Beauties of the Casino . . . Feb.

Wicker things and pur-
chases Feb.

Gibraltar Feb.

Tangiers — Scimitar and
powder horn Feb.

Algeciras Feb.

Baroness Von Ketteler. .Feb.

Orchards of olives and
almonds Feb.

Ronda, Andalusia Feb.

Granada Feb.

Alhambra and its won-
ders Feb.

Sierra Nevadas, snow
covered Feb.

Generalife Palace and
gardens Feb.

Carthusian Monastery ..Feb.

Malaga and its interest-
ing things Feb.

Grand Hotel del' Oasis,
Algiers Feb.

Excursion to Blidah. . . .Feb.

Arab quarter of Algiers. .Feb.

Country a surprise, like
New England Feb.

Cold weather a surprise. Feb.

Blidah, Chasseurs d'Af-
rique and Zouaves .... Feb.

Arabian horses Feb.

1903

427

II,

II.

II,

II.
II,

1903
1903
1903
1903
1903
1903
1903

427

430
430
430
431
431

II.

1903

431

II.

1903

431

II.

1903

431

II,
II,
II.

1903
1903
1903

432
433
433

II.

16,

1903
1903

434
436

16,
16,
16,

1903
1903
1903

438
438
438

16,
16,
16,

1903
1903
1903

438

439
440

16,

1900

440

16,

1903

441

16,
16,

1903
1903

441
441

16,

1903

442

17.

1903

442

17.

1903

443

17,

1903

443

17.

1903

443

17,

1903

444

17.

1903

444

17.

1903

444

Tangerine oranges Feb.

Gorge of Chiffa Feb.

Absence of monkeys . . . .Feb.
Old Roman walls and

Moorish houses Feb.

U. S. Navy ships, Chicago

and Machias Feb.

Genoa Feb.

Smooth passage Feb.

"Nearer the Equator

more furs are needed ".Feb.

Adieux at Genoa Feb.

Eden Palace Hotel,

Genoa Feb.

Hotel des Anglais, Nice. Feb.

Monte Carlo Feb.

Along the Riviera Feb.

Languages, German,

Portuguese, Spanish

French, Arabic, Italian. Feb.
Roses, violets, carnations

and narcissus Feb.

Oranges and lemons Feb.

Cafe Ciro Feb.

Flower parade Feb.

Bataille des Fleurs Feb.

Carnival at Nice, wire

masks Feb.

Cannes Feb.

Due d'Orleans Feb.

Villefranche Feb.

Ischia Feb.

Capri Feb.

Syracuse Feb.

Mt. iEtna Feb.

Greek Theatre Feb.

Ear of Dionysius Feb.

Church where St. Paul

preached Feb.

Malta Feb.

Citto Vecchio Feb.

Governor's summer pal-
ace Feb.

Governor, Lord Grenfell.Feb.

Curious cave shops Feb.

Steep streets Feb.

Wonderful weather Feb.

Summer clothing Feb.

Nauplia, Greece Mar.

Tyryns, the Acropolis,

1700 ft. above Mar.

17,

1903

444

17,

1903

445

17,

1903

445

17.

1903

445

19.

1903

446

19.

1903

446

19,

1903

446

19,

1903

447

20,

1903

448

20,

1903

448

20,

1903

448

20,

1903

449

20,

1903

449

20,

1903

449

20,

1903

450

20,

1903

450

22,

1903

451

22,

1903

451

23.

1903

451

23.

1903

453

23.

1903

453

23.

1903

453

2b,

1903

454

26,

1903

454

26,

1903

454

26,

1903

454

26,

1903

455

26,

1903

455

26,

1903

456

26,

1903

457

26,

1903

457

27.

1903

457

27,

1903

458

27.

1903

458

27,

1903

458

27.

1903

458

27,

1903

460

27.

1903

460

1903

461

1, 1903 462

423

INDEX

Wonderful Cyclopean

walls Mar. i,

Shepherds and sheep. .. .Mar. i,

Mycenae, Agamemnon's

city Mar. I,

Schlieman's Excavations Mar. i,

Tomb of Agamemnon .. .Mar. i,

Kalamaki Mar. i,

Old Corinth Mar. i,

The Isthmus and new

canal Mar. i,

Hotel Grande Bretagne,

Athens Mar. 3,

Aboard Auguste Victoria. Mar. 4,

Just sailed from the Pir-
aeus Mar. 4,

Dined with American

Minister Jackson Mar. 4,

Acropolis, University
Museum Mar. 4,

Dardanelles Mar. 4,

Sea of Marmora, Bos-

phorus Mar. 4,

Constantinople Mar. 7,

Pera-Palace, Constanti-
nople Mar. 7,

City of filth Mar. 7,

Yildiz Kiosk, Sultan en-
tering It Mar. 7,

Gorgeous military and

civil uniforms Mar. 7,

Thousands of soldiers,

big men Mar. 7,

Alosques, white palace,

Museum Mar. 7,

Ramadan, hordes of

sheep in streets Mar. 7,

Illumination of the Mos-
ques Mar. 7,

Visit to American college,

Scutari Mar. 7,

Feast of Beiram, 2000

sheep Mar. 8,

"Loukoum" (Turkish
Delight) Mar. 8,

Sultan's gifts, camellias,

azaleas and "loukoum" Mar. 8,

Trip to Black Sea, Run

through Bosphorus . . .Mar. 8,

Baron Marshall von

Bieberstein Mar. 11,

Candies for ladies, cig-
arettes for men from
Sultan Mar. 11,

Shadowed by detectives

and spies Mar. Ii,

Coast of Cyprus, Isle of

Rhodes Mar. II,

Beyrout Mar. Ii,

Difficult landing in small

boats Mar. 13,

Damascus Mar. 13,

Palace Hotel Mar.

903 462 Nice train to Damascus. Mar.
903 462 Lebanon Mountains Mar.

Wonderful views, bitter

903 462 cold Mar.

903 462 Camel trains Mar.

903 463 y\rab costumes Mar.

903 463 Bible expressions recalled Mar.
903 463 Rayak Mar.

Baalbec and its marvel-
903 463 lous ruins Mar.

Temples of Jupiter and of

903 464 the Sun Mar.

903 464 Ruins of Athens are tame

as compared to these. .Mar.
903 464 Wonderful Cyclopean

stones Mar.

903 465 Exquisite marble carv-
ings Mar.

903 465 Danger from use of bra-
903 465 ziers to heat rooms. . . .Mar.

Feast day and its curious

903 465 costumes, etc Mar.

903 466 Apricot, orange and lem-
on trees, in full blos-

903 466 som Mar.

903 466 Faithful saying prayers. .Mar.

Jewish and Christian
903 466 houses Mar.

Very fine interiors Mar.

903 466 Jewish procession carry-
ing an infant Mar.

903 467 Bazaars Mar.

Looking at the city by
903 467 moonlight, from the

housetop Mar.

903 467 Arab coffee house and

nargllehs Mar.

903 468 Interesting people in

party Mar.

903 468 Officers of Prussian Garde

do Corps Mar.

903 469 Jerusalem Mar.

Joppa, easy landing . . . .Mar.
903 470 A filthy city Mar.

Saluted by a Baldwin
903 470 locomotive Mar.

Crossing the Plain of
903 470 Sharon Mar.

Mud villages Mar.

903 471 Hills of Judea, Tower of

David Mar.

Bethsheba, now a fort-
903 471 resson topof Mt.Zion.Mar.

Mt. Moriah and the
903 471 Temple Mar.

Holy Sepulchre, groups of
903 471 churches, Greek, Cath-
903 471 olic, Roman, Armenian,
Coptic and Abyssinian
903 472 where Christ was
903 472 buried Mar.

424

13,
13,
13.

1903
1903
1903

472

473
473

13,
13,
13,
13,
13,

1903
1903
1903
1903
1903

473
474
474
474
47S

13,

1903

47S

13,

1903

47S

13,

1903

47S

13,

1903

47S

13,

1903

476

13,

1903

476

13,

1903

477

IS.

1903
1903

478
478

IS.
IS.

1903
1903

478
479

IS.
IS.

1903
1903

479
479

IS.

1903

479

IS.

1903

480

21,

1903

480

21,
21.
21,
21,

1903
1903
1903
1903

480
480
481

482

21,

1903

482

21,
21,

1903
1903

482
482

21,

1903

482

21,

1903

482

21,

1903

482

21, 1903 482

INDEX

Overwhelming sensation
on seeing actual spot of
Christ's suffering Mar.

Greek Patriarch and pro-
cession Mar.

Bethlehem, more un-
changed than Jeru-
salem Mar.

Showing manger where
Christ was born Mar.

City walls dating from
8th Century Mar.

Country picturesque and
lovely flowers Mar.

Mosque of Omar, on site
of Soloman's Temple. .Mar.

Rock at top of Mt.
Moriah where Abraham
offered Isaac as sacri-
fice Mar.

Mt. of Olives Mar.

Jericho, Dead Sea and
the river Jordan Mar.

Wicked looking Bedouin
as guard Mar.

Road made for German
Emperor Mar.

Decent hotel at Jericho. Mar.

Monastery where Elijah
was fed by ravens . . .Mar.

Mt. Nebo, where Moses
first saw the promised
land Mar.

Dangerous ride to the
Dead Sea . . — Mar.

Swim in Dead Sea Mar.

Sodom and Gomorrah. . .Mar.

Great change of tem-
perature from cold in
Jerusalem to heat of
Jericho Mar.

Descent of 3500 ft. to

Dead Sea Mar.

Jordan River only a
creek Mar.

Spot where Christ was
baptized Mar.

Fill can with Jordan
water Mar.

Bethany, house of Mary
and Martha Mar.

Lunch at the Apostles'
Fountain Mar.

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo Mar.

A combination of Paris
and Saratoga Mar.

General von Roeder . . . .Mar.

Pyramids and Sphinx. .Mar.

Tombs of the Mame-
lukes Mar.

21,

1903

483

21,

1903

483

21,

1903

483

21,

1903

483

21,

1903

484

21,

1903

484

21,

1903

484

21,
21,

1903
1903

484

485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

48s

21,
21,

1903
1903

48s
48s

21,

1903

485

21, 1903 485

21,
21,
21,

1903
1903
1903

485
48s
485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

485

21,

1903

486

21,
24,

1903
1903

486
486

24,
24,
26,

1903
1903
1903

487

487
488

26, 1903 488

Disfigured faces of chil-
dren Mar.

Brugsch Bey Mar.

Mena Hotel on edge of
Desert Mar.

Mohammedan Wedding. Mar.

Elias Bey's giftof ascarabMar.

Lu.xor, Lu.xor Hotel Mar.

Dusty ride. Summer Heat
and flies Mar.

Temple of Karnak Mar.

French Government ex-
cavations Mar.

Troops of natives and
overseers with whips. .Mar.

Avenues of sphinxes Mar.

"Egypt of my dreams". Mar.

Lybian Hills, beyond the
'Nile Mar.

Picturesque boats Mar.

Women with water vases
poised on their heads. Mar.

Misery of the people. . . .Mar.

Thebes Mar.

Tombs of the Kings. . . .Mar.

Aboard Auguste Victoria . Mar.

Alexandria Mar.

Presentation of silver
bonbon box as sou-
venir of Steam Ship
Company Mar.

Palermo, Sicily Mar.

Messina and Taormina .Apr.

Hotel St. Domenica Apr.

Mt. Aetna Apr.

Beautiful Taormina Apr.

True Greek theatre Apr.

Pompeii Apr.

La Tosca at Naples Apr.

Hotel Bertolini Apr.

Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius. Apr.

Rome Apr.

Strike of cabmen Apr.

Mrs. Elliot's house near
Palace of Queen Marg-
herita Apr.

Old Aurelian wall Apr.

Tea rooms on the Corso.Apr.

Santa Maria Sopra Mi-
nerva Apr.

Pantheon Apr.

Tombs of Victor Emman-
uel and Umberto .Apr.

St. Peter's, Miserere sung
by Sistine Choir Apr.

Villa Medici, Borghese
gardens Apr.

Easter Mass at St.
Peter's Apr.

Pincian Hills Apr.

Tivoli Apr.

26,

1903

488

26,

1903

488

26,

1903

489

27,

.1903

494

27,

1903

491

28,

1903

491

28,

1903

491

28,

1903

492

28,

1903

492

28,

1903

492

28,

q903

492

28,

1903

494

28,

1903

495

28,

1903

495

28,

1903

495

28,

1903

495

28,

1903

495

28,

1903

495

29,

1903

496

29,

1903

496

29,

1903

496

29,

1903

496

1903

496

1903

496

1903

496

1903

496

1903

497

1903

499

1903

499

1903

499

1903

499

1903

499

1903

499

1903

499

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

1903

500

17,

1903

501

425

INDEX

Villa d'Este and wonder-
ful gardens Apr.

Hadrian's villa Apr.

Cardinal Rampolla Apr.

Grand Hotel Apr.

Via Appia Nuova and
Campania Apr.

Sabine hills and Frascati Apr.

Rag fair Apr.

Barbcrini Palace and Cas-
tcllani's Apr.

Baths of Diocletian Apr.

Ezekiel and his studio. .Apr.

Call at the embassy . . . .Apr.

Lunch at Mrs. Haseltine'sApr.

Costanzi Theatre, Opera
of "Germania" Apr.

Got rosaries from Holy
Sepulcher in Jerusalem
and Bethlehem blessed
by the Pope Apr.

Villa Doria-Pamfili ....Apr.

Monte Janiculum, Tas-
so's Oak Apr.

>7.

1903

5C1

17.

1903

SOI

17,

1903

501

17,

1903

501

17,

1903

502

17.

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17,

1903

502

17, 1903 503

17, 1903

21, 1903

503
503

21, 1903 503

Mountains covered with

snow Apr. 21, 1903 503

Paris Apr. 29, 1903 504

Dinner at "Tour d'Ar-

gent Apr. 29, 1903 504

Dinner at Durand's Apr. 29, 1903 504

Paillard's Apr. 29, 1903 504

Visit Marquise de Roch-

ambeau Apr. 29, 1903 504

Paris decorated to re-
ceive King Edward. . .Apr. 29, 1903 504

Caf6 Foyot May 3, 1903 505

Concert Rouge May 3, 1903 505

Opera May 3, 1903 505

Illuminations, etc., for

King Edward May 3, 1903 505

The "Salon" and pic-
tures May 3, 1903 505

Tea and strawberries at

cake shop May 3, 1903 505

Dinner at "Noel and

Peters" May 3,1903 505

Madeleine and St. Roch.May 3, 1903 505

Lunch at "Viau's" May 3,1903 505

Sails for New York May 8, 1903 505

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

Feb. 3rd, 1903.
Dear Frank,

You are only just gone but I thought I would send just a
line. People are now pouring in. The band was playing
something of Sousa's. Just now while I was beginning this
the band struck up the Star Spangled Banner and the lady
sitting next to me burst into tears. Her husband said, "Oh, it
always affects you so, doesn't it.^" We are lucky to have
such a nice day. I shall miss you very much and do so wish
you had thought it best to come. Did you see Guardabassi
on the dock near you.^* I am going down now to take a bite
of lunch and get my stateroom fixed up and then I shall retire
to the deck to stick it out as long as possible.

I forgot to tell you I still have two tickets for the last
Opera night, March 17th, and told Laura she had better come
up and use them with you. If she cannot come I hope you
will invite some one to go with you.

I must go now, so farewell, take care of yourself and take
my best 'ove. I meant to write to the Adelmanns to ask if they
could give me any letters anywhere. Won't you do it and give
them a list of our stoppings.^ I should have done it sooner.

Your loving, M. D. R

427

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Am Bord, Augustc Victoria,

February, 1903, 9 P. M.
Dear Father,

We expect to get to Madeira to-morrow after a rough
rainy trip. The first day was smooth and pleasant but since
then the boat has been continually rolling in a heavy side
sea. I missed lunch on the second day but did not mind.
Mother w^as pretty ill and kept in her cabin, but has been on
deck now for three days. We have well-placed seats at table
near the door. The food is greasy and covered with fancy

sauces. The sleeping cabins are very stuflFy.

Cliff.

Auguste Victoria, Monday, February 9th, 1903

Just after lunch.
Dear Frank,

As I want to enjoy the fresh air and sunshine I will begin
my letter out here on deck. We have had a horrible trip and
after I went down to my room on Tuesday night I never came
up again until Saturday at lunch time, and even since then

'■•\

S. S. AUGUSTE VICTORIA

it has been almost constantly raining and blowing. Wednes-
day morning we got into warm weather and it was uncom-
fortably warm in the staterooms and other rooms and even
on deck. They have had to keep the sides wholly enclosed

on account of the wind and rain. I find that all the people we

428

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

know are going to get oflP at Genoa, some to go to Sicily and
others to stay on the Riviera and to Rome. We are to arrive
at Madeira. It is hard to realize we are off the coast of Africa.

It is really cooler today than it has been at all and we had
fresh air in the stateroom for the first time. Of course the
worst is now over and a young Mr. Curtis, a college friend of
Charley Sinnickson's, says that his experience is that it is
delightful sailing after Gibraltar, but I have made an applica-
tion for a stateroom on the deck above where I can always
have an open window, for I seem to not be able to sleep down
there. To-day is like our ordinary summer trips across the
Atlantic, but it has been much warmer hitherto. They say
it will be warm in Funchal. We arrive there some time in the
forenoon and spend the night in a good hotel and depart at
5 in the afternoon.

Cooks' people take us up to the top of the mountain funicu-
laire and down in sledges and then leave us to ourselves.

There was a very nice service yesterday, and they prayed
for the dear ones at home. I have missed you very much ; I shall
write as often as possible and hope all is well at home. I wrote
with a pencil on deck and am now in the conversation room to
finish up. It was quite gay at dinner to-night as the people are
beginning to get acquainted. The food is very beautifully
garnished and served but rather heavy. A man who looks
exactly like Dr. Lorenz sits opposite and he is a Dr. from Berlin.
A young German with him who has reminded us of Raban has
been eating everything in great quantities and drinking beer and
champagne and was not able to come to the table. I have been
careful picking out the plain things, roasts and compote, as
much as possible. Strange to say while the weather has cleared
it is colder than at any other time since we left New York.

I will write postals to-morrow and write a long letter at the

first opportunity. I suppose the ship will cable our arrival

and you will probably know it by noon. With much love to

you both and all and kind regards to the girls.

Your loving wife, M. D. R.

429

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Am Bord, Augustc Victoria,
Leaving Madeira, February nth, 1903.
Dear Frank,

We have just finished dinner and a very good one it was,
after coming on board about 3 p. m. I have so much to tell
that I almost dread to begin. All the time I was dressing yes-
terday morning I was gazing out at the outlines of Madeira,
rejoicing beyond words that I was going to put my feet on
land. It is not a large island but very mountainous and very
impressive in outline. As soon as the ship dropped anchor

FUNCHAL FROM THE TERRACE

little boats came out filled with half-dressed boys who dove
into the water for pennies just like so many frogs, then we
began to get into the row boats to go to the shore. The water
was very rough and we had to jump into the boat when it
rose on a wave, and then we danced along like a cork on top
of the water. You would have been amazed to see my agility
and freedom from any sickness. The view before us was in-
comparable, the town lay on the side of the mountains slop-
ing steeply down to the bay, square, white plaster houses,
Portuguese or rather Spanish architecture, dotted all over

430

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

among banana trees, fern, palms, and the outlines of moun-
tains are gorgeous rising out of the sea, something to re-
member forever.

The harbor was formed by an arm of stonework which
came out to a fortified island rising straight out of the
water. As we landed the bullock carts were waiting for us
and it was all so wonderfully strange — the bullock carts,
as all the vehicles in Funchal, are on runners, like a sled and
it was a strange sensation to be jerked along zig-zag. The
streets are all paved with very small pointed stones in beau-

FUXCHAL, MADEIRA

tiful mosaic patterns in many cases and shine like glass from
the oil which is put on the runners to make them slip
along As we came from the mole we passed along a high
precipice on top of which was the Casino, then we went to
the station and took the funicular R. R. up to the church on
the hill where there are hotels, and we lunched. The place in
a way reminded me of Clovelly as the streets are as steep but
it is far more beautiful.

We had taken Cooks' tickets and were to ride down in
sledges after lunch; they were flat things with cushioned

431

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

seats and a man on cacli side to hold it hack. Mrs. Potter,
her daughter and myself came in one and were pretty well
frightened, but one would quickly get used to it. How I
wish I could adequately describe the wonderful color effects;
all the houses were white plaster with heavy green slatted
shutters to keep out the sun, surrounded by tropical gardens
and high white walls. The corners were arranged as a sort
of loggia, protected by trellises covered either with a giant
trumpet vine or masses of the Bougainvillea vine, such masses
of color and w^hen a gate would be open in a high wall we

■COASTING" AT FUNCHAL

could see glorious shady gardens, the ground covered with
myrtle and giant camelia trees and big rose trees in full
bloom. Another bush had a vivid scarlet flower shaped like
hawthorn; bunches of unfamiliar flowers were on giant bushes
and the ground was covered with pink and scarlet geraniums
and heliotrope. All that with the blue sea behind was a dream.
I pity the people who cannot see it, and when I think what
you have missed I could cry.

The sledges brought us down to the Santa Clara Hotel in
the town and on as steep a street as the hotel in Clovelly,
They met us with the information that not a room could be

432

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

had, but Mrs. Potter and I refused to go and finally they
concluded to put us in the children's room in the garden.

A wharf or mole of masonry opens into the principal
promenade, which was of bare ground with a row of big
sycamore or plane trees. The only sign of winter was that
certain trees had not their foliage, but they were so few
that they were not noticed. As to climate, heaven can-
not have a better; imagine a perfect June day or July day
with a delicious cool breeze never failing. I wore thin summer

MOTHER'S CARRIAGE, MADEIRA

clothing, but at night was glad of my coat. The hotel was so
overcrowded that they put us at a pretty round table in a
small room. A man and his wife whom we had spoken with
were at our table and he asked us to accept some cham-
pagne to drink to the success of our trip, and we had pretty
flowers and a good dinner and an altogether good time; then
we adjourned in bullock carts to the Casino, where there was
a ball given in honor of the ship's arrival. The grounds were
decorated with colored lights and inside in the ball room and
the gambling rooms at either end great plateaus of camellias

28 433

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and other flowers were everywhere and the most delicious
refreshments were given.

Clifford had to go back to the ship for the night. When
we got into our room we found they had fixed a small
room for mc and when I got into bed there was no blanket
and as it was quite cold, being on the ground and the
stone walls very thick, I had to put my skirt over me, and
my coat as well, and then I was afraid to move for fear of
throwing off covers and could think of nothing I looked like
so much as Brunhilde in the Valkyrie.

The wicker things are perfectly fascinating and it was
comical to see the people arriving at the ship this after-
noon with every sort of thing in wicker from birds in cages
to chairs and sofas. It is a great temptation to buy. Mrs.
Potter gave away two or three dollars in pennies to beggars
the first day, so to-day she was a little more careful. At
the Hotel there was a terrace like the deck of a ship, built
up very high between the street and the garden, where
we could sit and a fascinating place it was. In the little
narrow street the bullock carts slipping along and the
strange cries of the drivers and on the other side the tropical
garden, and in the distance the great headland at the North
and th^ picturesque fort on the Loo rock, and the sea far
below I shall never forget as long as I live, and how we did
enjoy the excitement of the landings and the strangeness of
everything.

Aboard Ship, Thursday, Feb. I2th, 1903.

I wrote as long as I could last night but couldn't finish.
We are now arranging for our tour to Granada. Not all
are going — like you they have not courage to endure the
fatigue, but after reading the description in Murray's Hand
Book I couldn't stay away. Clifford prefers to see more of
Gibraltar and go over to Tangier for one day. I shall write
you all about it on the ship en route to Algiers. I am in the
seventh heaven, if it were not for my hot and disagreeable
stateroom. I fear you will not receive my postals from Eun-

434

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

chal until after this as there are not many mails from there.
We are all wrecks to-day. I must have used muscles that don't
often come into play. Perhaps the Alhambra will not be so
hard on us. Mrs. Potter and her daughter and the two Crillys
will go with us to the Alhambra. I must say good bye as I
fear to stay inside too long. It is much cooler and more motion
than this morning. We must have passed very near Ceuta,
the penal settlement on the African coast. I hope to hear at
Genoa that you are all well and not too unhappy, when you
think you might have been here instead of ugly Philadelphia.
With love to you all and to those who inquire.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Approaching Gibraltar
Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

Feb. 1 2th, 1903.
Dear Father,

We land at Gibraltar early to-morrow morning and Mother
goes with Mrs. Potter and her daughter and the Miss Crillys
to Granada, while I go to Tangiers with a party of men. We
had an ideal time at Madeira which is quite the prettiest place
I have ever seen with the exception of Porto Rico. We
landed the first day and went up the mountain on a cogwheel
road after a ride in a bullock sledge over cobble paved streets
worn smooth and shiny. The mountains are very steep and
all terraced and bright green with sugar cane and banana
trees. After a long wait we had a nice lunch and then visited
an old church. We coasted down the mountain 2000 feet on
hand sledges. Went to the Casino, which is a garden spot
on top of a precipice overlooking the Ocean. We had after-
noon tea there and then dined at the hotel St. Clara, going
afterwards to the Casino to a ball, where all the Americans
played roulette and lost, your son among others. The grounds
there are filled with beautiful tropical trees and plants and
there were beautiful illuminations. We have had beautiful
moonlight nights and uninterrupted good weather for the last

435

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

four days. Took twelve photos and hope they will turn out
well. Am sure you would have enjoyed the island of Madeira.
The second day we wandered around the streets and went to
the Casino sailing a' five in the afternoon. To-day is Lin-
coln's birthday and was celebrated this morning with speeches,
etc. We hear that there were bad storms just after we left
N. Y. and that there was very cold weather. I hope you were
not worried about us. I am to present our letters at Gibraltar,
as Mother will not have time.

With love J. C. R.

After leaving Gibraltar
Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

Feb. i6th, 1903.
Dear Father,

Mother and I cannot agree which of us had the better
time, she at Granada or I at Tangiers. The latter place has

TAXGIERS

rema'ned as yet almost entirely unspoiled by European influ-
ences and while disgustingly dirty is most interesting. We
had a smooth trip over of four hours and after landing we
mounted donkeys and started off sightseeing. Saw the prison,

436

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

TANGIERS FROM THE CITADEL

WATCHING A SNAKE CHARMER, TANGIERS

437

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the markets, the mosque, the citadel and a snake charmer.
I bought a silver mounted scimitar dagger and a powder horn,
of what looks like rhinoceros horn mounted with brass.
Gibraltar was rather disappointing as it is not on the sea as I
expected, nor is it the most southern point of Spain. The
fortifications of course are wonderful. We spent yesterday
at Malaga and enjoyed the Cathedral there. We arrive this
afternoon at Algiers which I am led to understand is a junior
little Paris. We both keep well and enjoy the trip. We
expect to find some letters at Genoa. Weather keeps fine
and clear. With love, J. C R.

Auguste Victoria
Nearing Algiers, Feb. i6th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

I suppose you will find our letters few and far between,
but as we have only had two opportunities to post letters
you understand how it is. I sent you postal cards from Gibral-
tar Friday morning when we landed for an hour to see the
town, and then started on our trip to the Alhambra. Clifford
decided to go with a party to Tangiers and I went with Mrs.
and Miss Potter by ferry to Algeciras and then took the train.
The rock of Gibraltar is a wonderful sight and it loomed
up higher and higher as we drew away from it by train . We had
a most comfortable carriage with all the conveniences and
very clean. Beside our party of five the Baroness von Ketteler
and her sister from Detroit, McMillan were also in our
carriage, they were very interesting people and were very
pleasant, though on the ship they seemed to keep entirely by
themselves and their surroundings are all very elegant and
even their leather cushions were black to harmonize with their
mourning.

We at once began to climb into the mountains and
the scenery became every moment more impressive, while
the fields and valleys were beautifully cultivated, giving an
impression of thrift and prosperity. Orchards of olives and

438

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

almonds all over the hills and the soil a rich red. The effect
of the groves of almond trees in full bloom of pale pink flowers
against the bare stony tops of the Sierra Nevadas, and the
dark -grey green of the olives made a color picture well worth
travelling far to see. I don't think the cherry blossoms in
Japan can equal it.

GIBRALTAR

The beggars swarmed about us at every stop and we
were soon able to understand what they said. I could
very easily pick up Spanish if I could stay here a few
weeks. All the women (not ladies) that are in the streets and
about the stations wear their hair beautifully coiffed and look
very neat; only the Moors that we saw were filthy.

We passed through Ronda, a beautifully-situated place,

439

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and considered the most picturesque in Spain. Undoubtedly on
this trip we passed through the most beautiful part of Spain,
Andalusia. We also saw San Francisco and Bobadilla; at the
latter town I discovered some fine cakes and smelt the good
coffee and as we were delayed there Cooks' man decided to
treat us all to coffee and tea and we had quite a spree. We
got to Granada at about seven o'clock and were taken in car-
riages up the high hill to the Hotels which are very near the
Alhambra, one facing the other.

IN TANGIERS

It was wintry cold and after a great deal of confusion

w^e got our rooms in the Hotel opposite the Washington

Irving, but not nearly so comfortable, as it is a sort of

annex. There were no fires and we almost froze while

eating our dinners, so as it was bright moonlight we took

a guide, a handsome young Spaniard with a long cloak, and

wandered all about the Alhambra. Ordinary words cannot

convey the effect of that view. Far, far below lay the old

town of Granada, beyond the Gypsy Hill where they live in

houses scooped out of the side of the hill and back at the right,

440

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

the Sierra Nevadas covered with snow. We stayed until
midnight and then went to our icy cold rooms, but found
warming pans, or rather bottles, in the bed. Everything was
scrupulously clean, and in the morning they gave us each a soft
wicker bag with handle with a lunch for the return journey.
At seven we were called and at eight had breakfast and
at nine were off to see the Genaralife Palace and gardens and
wonderful indeed were they, the intricate lace-like carving,
the delicate columns and arches, against the deep blue sky,

THE ALHAMBRA

were wonderfully beautiful. We walked there and back and

then to the Alhambra, quite a climb up hill. Charles the Fifth

tore away some of the finest carving and covered up others

with plaster ceilings in the taste of that period and now they

are taking that away and find the original coloring which they

are copying in the restorations.

After we had been taken in groups through all those wonders

we were driven through the old part of Granada and out to a

suppressed Carthusian monastery where they showed us a

chapel constructed of the marbles from the Sierra Nevada of

wonderful colorings, pink and coffee color, streaked with white.

441

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

It was the most richly-dccoratcd chapel I ever saw, with carved
marble and gilded wood carving. The sacristy was a gem with
all the doors and chests of drawers a solid mass of inlay work of
tortoise shell, ivory and ebony, in Moorish designs. The cathe-
dral was also very impressive but most of all the little narrow
streets and the people and the donkeys with their queer saddles.

We had lunch at the Hotel and drove in the carriage into
the town. The ship sailed immediately and when I awoke in the
morning we were at Malaga. This city, Malaga, presents a
beautiful picture from the ship. We went over in small boats
at II, and had an early lunch, drove out to see the new villas
and went all over the cathedral, which looms up high and
square above the City, and a ruin on the hill, and most of all
enjoyed roaming through the streets and seeing the people
and trying to talk with them.

We are so impressed in Spain by the number of blind
people we see. It seems as if one-fourth of the whole pop-
ulation w^as blind. We had a delicious lunch at the Hotel de
Roma and came aboard at 4 o'clock and sailed at 5. I had
reached the limit of my strength and lay in my chair all even-
ing except while at dinner. The weather continues heavenly,
like summer in the sun but cool in the shade. I took a slight
cold in my bronchi at Granada and my throat ached with fa-
tigue, but I am feeling much better as I get rested.

We land at five o'clock at Algiers and expect to spend
the night at the St. George Hotel up on the hill. As we
have not yet heard a word from you w^e are beginning to
be anxious for our first letters. With love for you and Sam,
and hoping you are both well and happy.

Your aff. wife, M. D. R.

Grand Hotel de I'Oasis, Alger,

Feb. 17th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

For fear I will not get time to-morrow I will write a few
words to-night. We came off the ship yesterday afternoon to

the strains of the Star Spangled Banner, as there were three

442

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

of our warships in the harbor, and altho we were told it was
of no use to try to get rooms, we were lucky enough to find
a big room here on our arrival at the dock in little boats.
Clifford concluded to sleep on board ship. Clifford dined with
us and then went with Walter Cramp for the evening. We
were dead tired and went to bed early, so as to get up at six
thirty to make the excursion to Blidah today and to the Gorge
of Chiffa.

LANDING AT ALGIERS

Our drive yesterday was up around the fortifications
on the heights and down through the Arab quarter, ^a series
of narrow streets crossed by flights of steep steps with houses
almost touching and such filth and such picturesqueness
it would be hard to find. This morning we started early
without Clifford for Blidah by train. The country was a
great surprise to me as it might have been New England
except that the hedges were cactus and there were orange
groves behind the close rows of pine trees, and the swarms
of Arabs everywhere. Also we expected warm weather
as it was very warm on the ship. Instead of that we were

443

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

perished with the cold all day long. I longed for my fur
cloak, which I had left on the ship. At Blidah carriages were
waiting and we drove through the market place and saw the
Arabs in swarms mixed with French soldiers, Chasseurs
d'Afriquc and Zouaves and saw the fine "pur sang" Arabian
horses, belonging to the government and then went to the
Hotel d'Orient and in that seemingly far-away Arab town

ALGIERS

had a most delicious lunch. The table was beautiful
with plants and moss baskets, Tangerine oranges and mer-
ingues, etc. We had fresh green peas, and were presented with
a bunch of sweet violets at each plate and at the station an
enormous basket of Tangerines was brought out and we were
told to take all we wanted.

In spite of the cold weather the trees are leaving out and the
roses are blooming and we are eating fresh peas and asparagus.

444

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

We had a long cold drive through the magnificent gorge of
ChifTa in the mountains back of Algiers, ancient " Alauritania. "
We saw no monkeys. Mr. Walter Cramp, whom we saw last
eve, said there were swarms of them in warmer weather. We
got home late and Clifford had left word he had been invited
out to dinner, so I shall have to fall back on Cook to see the
city of Algiers to-morrow as we must make an early start.
We sail at five in the afternoon for Genoa and will probably

BLIDAH

have a rough time of it though it was smoother than the Sound
coming here from Malaga. The old Roman walls and the
Moorish houses are very interesting. Everything else is as
modem as Paris and the contrast is violent. We expect to
stay at Nice and be on land four or five days and will write
from there.

As I am sitting up now after every one else to write this,
you must please forward it to Laura, as it is really impossible
for me to write to any one else. With love to you and Sam
and all who inquire. Your aff., M. D. R.

445

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Am Bord, Aiiguste Victoria,
En route from Algiers, Feb. 19th, 1903.
Dear Father,

To-morrow morning we land at Genoa and take the noon
train for Nice. We had cold, cloudy weather which dampened
our enthusiasm at Algiers. The place is a modern city and
the Arab quarter too civilized. To-day is bright, sunny and
smooth, but quite cold. Mother has all her things packed so
we can walk ashore. We fully expect to find our first home
mail and are looking forward to reading it with a great deal
of pleasure. Many people leave the ship at Genoa and some
new ones come aboard, so w^e won't feel so much at home
when we return to the ship at Villefranche. The Moltke
came in at Algiers the day we left with 450 Cook excursionists.
She is much larger than our boat and also more modern.
The chief objection to this boat is the stuffiness of the sleep-
ing cabins. Will write from Nice.

With love J. C. R.

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

19th Feb. 1903.
Dear Frank,

W^e spent the day looking about Algiers in the Mosque,
churches, &c., and walked through the Arab quarter. It
w^ould be hard to imagine the filth and squalor, the streets as
wide as our front hall, the shops opening on them without any
outlet at the rear and the houses having a small door right
on the street. When I happened to see one open I looked in;
it looked quite spacious and was whitewashed in blue, and
looked clean enough. We came aboard about 4 o'clock — a cold
wind blowing. The band played the Star Spangled Banner
as we passed our ships the Chicago and Machias, and we were
soon out at sea, rolling and pitching. I went to bed, most un-
comfortable, expecting to be violently ill, but fortunately went
to sleep and when I woke up found there was no motion. I

took advantage of the smooth water to go down to my trunks

446

MADEIRA, SPAIN AND ALGIERS

in the hold and took out some clothes and arranged the small
trunk for Nice.

We intend to go right on to Nice, and as I tele-
graphed from Gibraltar for rooms hope we can get them,
but they say Nice is crammed. It is perfectly wonderful how
all the places are jam cram full of people. The ship stays at
Genoa two days but I have to get to the land as often as pos-
sible to get rid of the boat. I believe this is about the worst

BLIDAH

trip we have to take, and it is as smooth as a mill pond. We
hear all three ships are to be at Joppa at once and if so we
may have to sleep in tents at Jerusalem. I told Cooks' man
I would not do it. A lady on board told me that the nearer
you went to the Equator the more you wanted your furs, and
I have found it true. I needed my heaviest winter clothing
and didn't have it. We hope to get our first mail to-morrow
and to hear how you all are. Tell Sam to write me once in
a while. With much love for you both.

Your aff.

M. D. R.

THE MEDITERRANEAN

Hotel des Anglais, Nice,

Dear Frank, ^'^- ^°'^' "^^' '° ^- ^-

After a very smooth trip across the Mediterranean we

landed this morning in Genoa, saying good bye to almost

everyone. Clifford wanted to take a boat called the Cobra

w^hich lay just beside the Auguste Victoria, but I wanted to

come by train, so we took our things to the station and then

drove around Genoa and lunched at the Eden Palace Hotel,

high up on one of the hills, with a lovely garden and such

cleanliness and quiet. I longed to stay there. Clifford had

played bridge with, a Mrs. Brown of Providence and a

Mrs. Sewell of Pittsburgh, and Miss Bonsall and her sister,

were staying there and Clifford sent them some flowers. Miss

Crilly met her friend Adiss Wheeler, daughter of General Joe

Wheeler, and invited us to the Hotel Savoy to dinner, but we

could not accept as we decided to leave on the noon train.

I was fortunate enough to get into the same compartment

with Mrs. Marion Story, whose husband is a cousin of Julian

Story, a very interesting woman, and her friend, who I

think was a Miss Story, but now a Mrs. Macdonald. They

were most friendly and said they were sorry they had made

my acquaintance so late and hoped they would meet me again.

They go to Cannes next week. We had telegraphed here from

Gibraltar a week ago for rooms but every one said we would

have great difiiculty to get in. I wanted to come here because

448

THE MEDITERRANEAN

it is where Father and I stayed more than thirty years ago.
We found the omnibus waiting and they had rooms for us all
right, delightfully clean and comfortable at ii frcs. each, not
cheap, but it is the height of the season and carnival time.
There is to be a procession on Sunday afternoon and the
battle of flowers on Monday, which we are arranging to see.
To-morrow we shall go to Monte Carlo to dine and spend the
evening, so we are going to be very gay. We got our first
mail this morning at Genoa and glad I was to hear from you

GENOA

all. There seems to be nothing exciting in your life. What a
contrast to mine! I was ideally happy going along the Riviera
to-day and repeating my experience of many years ago, and
all I regret is that you are not here to enjoy it with me. I
cannot tell you how I have enjoyed all our land excursions.
It is astonishing how much we have seen and accomplished,
but it is a perfect whirl. Just think, German all the time on the
ship and Portuguese at Madeira, Spanish atGibraltarand Gran-
ada, French at Algiers, Arabic at Blidah, Itahan at Genoa and
French here, and think of all we have ahead of us. The ship part

29 449

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

is the only trial but most of the people enjoy getting back to it.
It has been very warm all day and the roses are in full
bloom everywhere and violets and Narcissus and carnations
out of doors. We could see them picking flowers, from the
train, and such quantities of orange and lemon trees! It
seems strange that the coldest place should have been
Africa. Cliff is delighted with this Hotel. I found the letter
from Mrs. Elliot asking me to stay with her in Rome; noth-
ing could have been more friendly. The Pembertons from

THE WATER FRONT, NICE

New York are going to make the whole tour and are
about the only people I care for, left on board. I am so tired,
up at seven this morning and all the excitement of landing
and luggage and custom houses, travelling all day and now it
is eleven o'clock, so good bye and with much love and hoping
you and Sam will not mope Your aff., M. D. R.

Monte Carlo,

Sunday, Feb. 22nd, 1903.
Dear Father,

I have just finished a light supper after losing last night
and to-night together the large sum of ^29, which I put down
to profit and loss and experience. We landed at Genoa day

450

THE MEDITERRANEAN

before yesterday and after a pleasant drive and lunch took a
most unpleasant railroad trip of eight hours by which we
missed a lot of beautiful scenery, which we could have seen
from a large steamer, which makes the same trip. Nice is a
very beautiful place, but we came up here for dinner at the
Cafe Ciro last night, returning by the ten o'clock train. To-
day we saw the Carnival procession and joined in a confetti
fight. Mother was tired and decided to stay at the hotel, so
I came up here alone and am returning on the same train as
last night. We were much pleased at receiving the home mail.
To-morrow we see the flower parade at Nice and sail Tuesday
from Villefranche, the next railroad station Our hotel is
exceedingly well run. With love, J. C. R.

Hotel Gallia, Cannes,
Mon. Feb., 23rd, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Clifford and I took seats for the Bataille des Fleurs at
Nice this afternoon and found it very beautiful and amusing.
I never saw so many flowers in my life, for not only were hun-
dreds of carriages decorated solidly all over with such flowers
as violets, white lilacs, daisies, tea roses, pink roses and gilly
flowers in pink and white, and yellow daffodils, for which we
pay a dollar a dozen, but they had baskets full of bunches of
flowers to throw at people. Each side of the street was filled
with stands and all the people down in the stands had flowers
and pelted each other mercilessly. It was really a unique
spectacle. After it was mostly over we took the train for this
place and had just time enough before dark to get a glimpse
of this place; it is not so large as Nice and has one magnificent
view, to the west, of high mountains jutting out into the sea.
We saw the Margherita and the Nahma, N. Y. Y. C. in the
harbor. This Hotel stands up high on the hill and is modern
with steam heat and other American ideas. Our Hotel at
Nice is more homelike and the most perfect cooking I ever
tasted. We were to have come here yesterday to see the torch-

451

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

THE CARNIVAL, NICE

VILLEFRANCHE

452

THE MEDITERRANEAN

light parade, but were so used up after our Carnival experi-
ences that we rested instead and dined at our Hotel next
table but one to the Due d'Orleans. His wife had the most
magnificent jewels I ever saw. I suppose she was dressed for
the Veglione (the great Masked Ball). Were we not lucky
to arrive here just in time for the Carnival.? I don't remember
whether I wrote you on Saturday, but I think it was Friday
night. We went out to Monte Carlo Saturday afternoon with
the young man and his bride that you played cards with at
Hot Springs. We saw shoals of people and the gambling and
dined at Ciro's, the swellest restaurant. Yesterday we had
seats for the Carnival procession and had to wear wire masks
and cover our hats and cloaks. It was a great sight; there
were big floats much more artistic than anything you ever
see at home and there were military bands of only bugles, which
played in the most wonderful way, throwing the bugles up
in line in turn in a way I never saw. The great square was
thronged with people in dominos or fancy costumes of every
color and all wore masks and hoods fitting tightly over. There
was a continual rain of confetti (balls of lime) and every place
was an inch deep with it. We are going to dine here and take
the 8.40 train back to Nice. To-morrow we will start immedi-
ately after lunch in a carriage with our luggage and drive to
Villefranche and get on the ship which will sail at six p. m.
for Sicily. This little stay on land is very expensive, but it is
the last gaiety we will have. I must go to dinner, so good bye.

With love, M. D. R.

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,
Villefranche, Feb. 23rd, 1903.
Dear Father,

Yours No. 4 we found aboard today on our return to the
ship. Many thanks! Mother has changed to a very nice
stateroom but I have decided to stay where I am. Mother
and I went to Cannes to dinner last evening. We hope to
have smooth sea as it is like glass this afternoon.

With love, J. C. R.

453

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

After leaving Villefranche.

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

26th Feb. 1903.
Dear Frank,

I think I wrote you last from Nice or Cannes. We left
there the next day, immediately after lunch, took a carriage
and put all our luggage on it. As the last carnival frolic was
going on we had to make a detour to avoid it. I shall always
remember the trumpet music and the immense crowds all
dancing at once in their gay colored dominos. We had a most
beautiful ride to Villefranche, but while the warships in the
harbor made a beautiful spectacle, I couldn't bear to look at
this ship because I never feel the same on it. I needed to get
on before the ship started as I wanted to see about my state-
room. I could not stand the old one any longer because when
it was rough I could not have fresh air. Now I have taken
one on the next deck above and it is much quieter and I can
have my port hole open all the time.

I had a pain in my head yesterday, but spent all day on
deck and in the afternoon we passed close to Ischia and then
by Capri. It was hazy and the sunset was a wonderful rosy
glow which threw out the outlines of Capri so that it was a
thing of beauty to remember forever. They did not tell us
that we would pass near Stromboli at midnight but those who
were up at that time saw it in eruption. We were up early
this morning and ready to get off at Syracuse, in little boats
as usual. I wonder how many little boats I have been in since
Feb. 3rd.^ Syracuse from the ship looked like the pictures
in the Bible, of Jerusalem, dead grey stone and square outlines;
as we landed we found a lovely walk of green trees, spring
bloom and stone seats. There we hired a carriage and took the
Murray program for one day in Syracuse, beginning with a drive
of five miles out into a cultivated country with beautiful groves
of orange trees to the great fortress of Euryalus built 800 B. C.

There we met four Germans, one of them an old Pro-
fessor, and they all spoke more or less Italian and as

454

THE MEDITERRANEAN

the guide spoke only Italian it was very nice to be with
them. The walls were of great blocks of stone of Cyclopean
proportions and the whole fort of immense size with battle-
ments where men on horseback could go about and great
passages through the rock. The whole population in time of
siege would recede from one wall to another until finally they

ENTRANCE TO THE AMPHITHEATRE, SYRACUSE

were gathered into the Fortress itself. The palace of Diony-
sius was above all in solid stone. The view of Mt. Aetna from
here was colossal. It seemed to hang in the clouds. From
there we came back to the Greek theatre. Just as I happened
to look up I saw May Reeves standing in the door! I thought
I was dreaming and I jumped up and sure enough it was she,
with her uncle and Miss Tyson. They had arrived at Syracuse
from Girgenti and saw our ship in the harbor and sent out an

455

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

invitation to dine with them at the Villa Politi, but we didn't
get it, and so they came on board.

We sail at midnight and it is now about eleven, and they
are just gone. I must finish so as to post this to-morrow
morning at Malta. The Greek theatre was a magnificent ruin,
an out of door theatre with seats cut out of solid rock and

EAR OF DIONYSIUS, SYRACUSE

immense. More interesting to me were the quarries and the
Ear of Dionysius, about which I have read but never expected
to see. It is cut out of solid rock and way up in the top is a
little opening where Dionysius is supposed to have sat to
listen to the talk of his victims in the prison below. The
slightest sound can be heard perfectly in every part; the pic-
tures give you no idea of it. A church near by was most
interesting, as the oldest Christian church in Syracuse and has

456

THE MEDITERRANEAN

incorporated an old Greek temple. In the crypt is where St.
Paul preached three days and it is so intensely old and all of
solid rock one cannot but be immensely impressed. Then we
went into the catacombs, which are finer than those in Rome.
It was first a place of burial and the tombs are thick and close,
solid stone coffins and later were places of refuge. The first
Bishop was martyred in the chapel where St. Paul preached,
I think it would be interesting for you to borrow some guide
books and read up, as we go along. We enjoyed buying
bunches of fresh lemons and eating them, they are so much
riper than those we get.

We had a very bad lunch in the Grand Hotel and so
after seeing the Cathedral (which is built around a mag-
nificent temple in whose walls the great fluted columns
with Doric tops still stand out) and the Fountain of Arethusa
we concluded not to dine in the town but to go out on the ship.
The Reeves are going on to Palermo, I believe, and up to
Rome, and may possibly join this ship at Genoa and go home
on it. Here at eleven I am writing and yet we are due at
Malta early in the morning and I must get up early and be
sightseeing all day. So good night. Clifford said he wrote
you. Tell Sam he might write. I got your first letter to-day
at Syracuse, so the other three arrived days ago.

With love for you both. AflF'ly, M. D. R.

Malta, 27th Feb. 1903.
Dear Frank,

We got oflF this morning at Malta, where there is a fine
harbor, and where the same oriental effect continues as at
Syracuse. It is one series of yellow stone walls, one above
another, up to the tops of the different hills and islands. We
had taken Cook tickets and found a long string of carriages
awaiting us, and we were taken a long six mile drive to the
Citto Vecchio, on top of a high hill, inclosed in fortified walls
with a moat. The views were magnificent, and the oldest
church in the town had a crypt connecting with the catacombs,
where St. Paul once stayed, and of course that made it interest-

457

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

ing. The main streets and the Governor's Palace and Ar-
mory and the great church of St. John are inside of two walls
and two moats. I forgot to say that we visited the Governor's
summer palace in the country, walking through the Public
Gardens and as we were going out the Governor, Lord Gren-
fell, passed us in a fine turnout and his uniform looked more
like that of a German officer than an Englishman.

The women wear a sort of calash on the head, a
wired arrangement which is a combination of mantle
and bonnet and is very picturesque — they, the women,
are dark and pale, with straight features. All the shops
are like in Algiers, sort of caves, that is, all the light

MALTA FROM THE SEA

comes from the front and you look in and see a large
dark room with beds and chests of drawers and the poorer
people seem to cook and keep house on the pavement. They
are dirty and terrible beggars. We were taken to an Italian
restaurant, where it was impossible to eat the food, so after
we had driven round the town and seen the gorgeous view
from the highest point where there was a garden, our party,
some Pawtucket and New York people, went to an English tea
house and had tea and hot muffins and enjoyed them largely.
The streets are so picturesque, frequently so steep as
to be all steps, looking down one saw the sea and harbor
at the end, with always the contrast between the stone and

458

THE MEDITERRANEAN

the blue. One never sees anything but stone, not a vestige of
wood. When we came out on the ship at six we found the
Promenade deck crowded with merchants who had come out
from the town. They will sell things for almost any price
rather than take them away. I got a piece of Maltese lace
as a souvenir. Mr Pemberton took me to see his rooms. On
account of his wife being a poor sailor and not strong he had
a large room at the back of the ship on the Promenade deck
partitioned off with temporary partitions and had bells put

MALTA

in and they have their own steward and a brass bed, and he
also stipulated that the band should not play at that end.
I have slept so much better since I changed my stateroom and
am sure it was wise.

It is great fun getting off on land, but two hard days in
succession are almost too fatiguing. To-morrow I must man-
age to pack my trunk for Athens for day after to-morrow we
land at Nauplia. Fortunately I have taken Cook tickets only
for the Railway trip to Athens and propose to manage alone

459

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

at Athens, as in a city like that we can get along better. I
think we did much more at Syracuse by ourselves than today.
Still there are times when you need Cook, for special trains,
&c. I am so tired I must stop. I am only happy on shore.
I wish I could write better letters, but I have to write most
of them when either very tired or sea sick.

With much love, and hoping you are both well,

Your afT., M. D. R.

P. S. I must add a few words this morning to tell you of the
wonderful weather. Altho we are crossing the Adriatic and
might expect a counter current the sea is like glass. I thought
we must be at anchor until I looked out of the port hole. We
have not had a single day of rain since arriving at Madeira.
Mr. Pemberton says every day that it is a wonderful voyage.
I could not wear a wrap yesterday at Malta and have all my
summer clothing on. I cannot get over my regret that you
did not come. It is one continuous spree. Our train leaves
Nauplia for Argos and Mycenae at 8.35 tomorrow and we
come back to the steamer at Kalamaki.

After Villefranche.
Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,

Feb. 28th, 1903.
Dear Father,

We certainly have been lucky in having good weather, but
in spite of that fact I have a bad cold. We left Villefranche
Tuesday afternoon after a beautiful drive from Nice and
landed at Syracuse which was most interesting. In the morn-
ing we got a good carriage and pair of horses and with the
Pierces went out to the fort and palace of Dionysius the
Tyrant. It was a beautiful Springlike drive. Then we visited
his prison called his ear. He sat in the upper end and the
slightest whisper from the wretches below he could hear. We
visited the remains of the Greek theatre, the Roman Amphi-
theatre and the old Christian church, where Paul preached

460

THE MEDITERRANEAN

for three days, and the catacombs. After a poor lunch we
went around the city and saw the Cathedral, which has built
in its wails the columns of the ancient Temple of Minerva.
Malta is a very fine harbor and is very thickly populated.
Hope you and Sam are having a good time.

With love, J. C. R.

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria, March i, 1903.
Dear Frank,

The first day of Spring and although there was snow on
the mountains it was as warm as May. It has been a very
amusing and interesting day. We made an early start to take

TYRYXS, GREECE

the 8.35 train at Nauplia. The scene was beautiful as we
rowed in little boats from the ship to land. High snow moun-
tains in the distance and a clear crisp atmosphere, and a very
precipitous rock, an Acropolis, immediately behind the town,
which serves as a general prison for all Greece. The buglers
were blowing the Assembly call and it was very still on the

water. We were only a short time in the train when we got

461

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

out and walked up to the Acropolis at Tyryns where the great
Cyclopean walls were built two thousand years before Christ.
It was the birth place" of Hercules and near by he slew the
Hydra-headed Snake. At Tyryns the walls are of unhewn
stones of prodigious size and the many passage ways were
vaulted by approaching the horizontal rows of stones a little
nearer to each other until they met at the top making a high
pointed arch. All this was destroyed 446 Before Christ.

The whole country is desolate looking but very beautiful.
There were many iiocks of sheep and the shepherds with their

-r*^-

THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER, ATHENS

short white ruffled skirts and peculiar woolen coats all helped to

make a memorable day. We next stopped at Mycenae, which

was Agamemnon's city and a great and rich city. Now there

exists only what Dr. Schlieman has excavated, namely the

palace of Agamemnon, on the top of a very high hill, which

we reached by open carriages and funny painted carts, the

drivers in all sorts of costumes. There, after seeing more

Cyclopean walls, but this time of hewn stones and the treasure

vaults, where Dr. Schlieman found 25,000 dollars worth of

treasure, w^hich we will see in Athens, we had our lunch. The

462

THE MEDITERRANEAN

view and the air were glorious. We had been given boxes of
lunch from the ship and a number of the stewards were sent
along with napkins and glasses. I took my tea basket and
made tea on the historic place and we had wine and mineral
water and sandwiches and hard boiled eggs and plenty of
oranges. It was delightful! A little distance from there on
our return we saw the most wonderful of all, the tomb of
Agamemnon, a circular vault coming to a sharp point 60 feet
high and made of colossal stones, without anything to hold
them together. There was a square entrance, with one enor-

THE TEMPLE OF THESEUS, ATHENS

mous stone across which is large beyond belief. On our way
back to Kalamaki we came over a high pass and in one town
saw peasants in costume dancing and old Corinth (the Acrop-
olis) up on the hill and then new Corinth and along the bay,
where Paul must often have been during his 18 months in
Corinth, then came the Isthmus and the new canal, which
gives the effect of being sliced right down through yellow rock
and is very strange. I am so dead tired I must stop, so good
bye, with much love. Your aff., M. D. R.

463

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athenes.

Tues., March 3rd, 1903.
Dear Father,

To-day is rainy but we spent nevertheless the morning at
the AcropoHs. At two o'clock we start again and go to the
museums. In a drive yesterday afternoon I saw the Uni-
versity buildings, which are of white marble and carvings
covered with gold sheets. The whole is in the best Greek
style and very beautiful. The hotel is good. It looks now
as if we would not be allowed to go to Damascus as there is
cholera there and the ship would be quarantined; if it breaks
out at Jerusalem we will go to Alexandria and have time to
go up the Nile. I hope you and Sam are well and having a
good time With love, J. C. R.

From Greece — aboard Auguste Victoria.

March 4th, 1903
Dear Frank,

I wonder if you remember that to-morrow is the thirtieth
anniversary of our wedding day. I think it is the first time
we have been separated at that date. I hope it will find you
well. We have just sailed from the Piraeus and it is blowing
up cold and getting rough, so I may not be able to do much
writing. We left Kalamaki Monday morning early and took
the train for Corinth and went in chariots (the real name for
the two-wheeled carts they use), to old Corinth, where there
are some beautiful ruins, and then we took donkeys, mules
and horses to go up the Acropolis, which is 1700 ft. above and
has the finest view in Greece. I struck a mule that turned
out to be lame and developed a great desire to get rid of me,
so that before we got to the top I jumped off in a great fright
when he turned on the edge of a fearful precipice and gave
a snort of fright or something else. I had a long climb to the
top and then went all the way back to old Corinth on foot
and it is the hardest jaunt I ever undertook. We got into a

car with Mrs. S and Miss S and Mr. and Mrs. F, all very nice

464

THE MEDITERRANEAN

intelligent people, and we had great fun. We started in the
chariots with a man in full Greek costume playing on a pipe,
which sounded exactly like a bag pipe. The atmosphere was
perfect and it was a joy to live, the sky and sea as blue as a
sapphire and when the women got on the donkeys astride it
was a sight to see. We got into Athens just before dark and
were glad to find a beautiful hotel with a nice large reading
and writing room and a fire. Clifford had sent our letters and
cards to the Jacksons* who were living in the Hotel and they
asked us to dine with them the next evening.

The next day, yesterday, we had our first rain, spring
showers, and we took a carriage and went first to the Acropolis
in the rain and it was very beautiful even then, and explored
the Museum In the afternoon it cleared and we visited all
the ruins and ended at the Acropolis again and had a fairly good
view and the last thing stopped at the Stadium, where they have
the Olympic games. A millionaire gave the money to put new
white marble seats over the old ones and as it holds 50,000
people you can imagine the size of it, the shape is that of an
ellipse. In the National Museum we found the treasures Dr.
Schlieman had found at Adycense and enjoyed them doubly.
When I got back I found an enormous bunch of double violets
from Mrs. Jackson, which I carried to the dinner and found
the captain of our ship was the other guest. I think I must
stop as it is getting very rough.

Thursday. Mother is not feeling well and asks me to
finish, so it can be posted when we arrive at 5 p. m.
Smoother now and Mother feels better. We probably cannot
land till 9 to-morrow morning. Expect to find mail. We shall
probably live on the boat and not stay at the Hotel ashore
as they say the town is very dirty. Cold and rainy this
morning. Have passed the Dardanelles and are in the sea of
Marmora.

With love, J. C. R.

* Mr. Jackson was the American Minister to Greece.
30

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

Pera-Palace, Constantinople.

March 7, 1903.
Dear Frank,

I came out from dinner very tired after a hard day's work
in a cold misty rain and stopped to talk with Mr. and Mrs.
Fowler of New York, perfectly charming people, who know
Alex, van Rensselaer and loads of Philadelphians we know,
and now it is very late for me to write any detailed account
of what we have seen in the last two days, in spite of weather.
We arrived before Constantinople in a howling wind and cold
rain at five o'clock. Fowlers got oif, but Clifford persuaded me
to stay on the boat and altho we had taken Cook for two days,
we did not come to the Hotel until last evening. To our de-
light we found it heated by steam heat, as we were chilled
through from riding about in carriages all day. It was too
bad to have two days of bad weather as we have not been
able to see an outline and this place needs sunlight and color
to bring out its beauties. We first drove for an hour through
the worst filth I ever saw, regular bogs of mud and sewage
sometimes a foot deep, up to the Yildiz Kiosk to see the Sultan
go to church, and it was a great sight. Cliif and Mrs. E, Miss
S., a Swedish man and myself, and we three women were per-
mitted to cling to an iron railing on top of a stone walk right
among the soldiers who lined every approach to the Mosque.

There we saw everything, the most gorgeous military and

466

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

civil uniforms and thousands of soldiers The Fowlers had
applied to our minister and were on the Sultan's terrace, but
they had to give up their umbrellas and were pushed about.
After two lines of officials from the Palace had passed into the
Mosque there was a hush and the Sultan's carriage appeared,
a sort of victoria, then all the soldiers crouched down and
motioned us to do the same and they seemed to cross them-
selves, and then I heard a queer quavering voice way up some-
where and looking up saw the Muezzin on the Minaret and
he was calling to prayer, and then they all gave a great shout
three times and the Sultan drove rapidly by into the Mosque,
I got a good look at him. The trumpet music was fine before
all this and we admired the appearance of the troops. They
are big men and strange to say, not many are dark. The
horses are fine, also, and well cared for. All animals here
look well cared for and the Turks seem to be much more
gentle and kind towards them than the Greeks or Spaniards
and Italians, but it is impossible to describe the general
dilapidation. I think that after the Turks came in here, when
they conquered Constantine, that they settled down amid the
ruins and have never repaved anything since. The ordinary
streets here are worse than the worst roads around St. Louis
after a thaw, and there is no drainage and they throw all
refuse into the streets, and leave the dogs to clean it up at
night; as a consequence the dogs fight and bark all night long.
I have bought some good photos, which will give you an idea
of the place. Last eve there was a dance after the dinner was
over, and I danced. We have done a lot to-day, three mosques
and the white palace along the Bosphorus and the Museum
and Treasury and went into the Bazaars (lo miles of streets
covered). Everywhere we go the streets and squares are
filled with sheep (much larger and finer looking than ours)
even the steps of the mosques are covered with them, and on
Monday they will be slaughtered and every person in Con-
stantinople will have meat to eat. The Sultan begins it at

467

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

5 A. M., and as far as I can learn the slaughtering Is done in
the street and it will be a dreadful sight. We are going on
board Sunday night as if it is fair the ship will sail up the
Bosphorus to the Black Sea at 9 a. m. and returning leaves
here at noon. I am going with the Fowlers to the American
College for Girls in Scutari tomorrow forenoon for service and
at 7 p. M. the mosques are all to be illuminated.

With love to all, M. D. R

Pera-Palace, Constantinople,
March 7th, 1903.
Dear Father

We arrived here on the afternoon of day before yesterday
in a hard rain with a very cold wind blowing and so did not

YILDIZ KIOSK, THE ARRIVAL OF THE SULTAN

land till the next day. The weather has remained just as bad,

but we have spent the two days ashore notwithstanding.

468

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

The first morning we saw the Sultan on his way to mosque
with a lot of soldiers all armed with out of date rifles. In the
afternoon saw a mosque which was once the oldest Christian
church This morning we went to two mosques, large ones,
and the Sultan's treasury, which I thought very interesting.
There was a throne of gold set with pearls, rubies and emer-
alds After lunch we went to the last Sultan's palace on the
Bosphorus. A beautiful building with a beautiful view, but
ruined by bad interior decorations and furniture. Then
another mosque and the bazaars. To-morrow, Sunday, Mother
is going with Mr. and Mrs. Fowler of N. Y. to some Presby-
terian school and I am going to the bazaars, meeting Mother
at lunch. In the evening the mosques are to be illuminated
as the Turkish Easter is at hand and we wish to go to a mosque
at night. We go aboard again late to-morrow night and sail
up the Bosphorus and back Monday morning and sail at noon
for Beyrout the port of Baalbec and Damascus.

With love to you and Sam. Cliff,

Constantinople, Aboard Auguste Victoria.

8th March, 1903.

Dear Frank,

When we came on board ship at six o'clock we found your

seventh letter and are glad that you are going out a little.

This morning, Sunday, Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and myself

went over to Scutari to the American college, as Miss Patrick

had written asking me to come and the Fowlers had letters

to her. The road was so fearful I expected to end my life

then and there, but we arrived safely and they seemed much

pleased to see us, showed us the college and then we attended

service. After lunch we went to some of the shops, but they

were most y closed as they were preparing for the Feast of

Beiram, and as we came out to the ship the cannons were

booming the opening of the Feast. Tomorrow morning at 5

469

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

they slaughter the sheep. The streets have been full of them
for days and the rich are supposed to give them to the poor.
The Sultan has bought two thousand to present to the poor.
I wouldn't have been in the city to-morrow morning for any-
thing; the streets will be a terrible sight. We met hundreds
with sheep on their backs with their forelegs around their
necks and looking so pathetic. We also went to-day into the
place where the Sultan buys his Loukoum or "Turkish De-
light." They had big wood fires in the dark back of the shop
and were stirring big cauldrons, but it was cleanly enough and
lots of French and Germans came in to buy candy. When we
were at the Treasury yesterday we were treated by the Sul-
tan's orders to Rose conserve and colfee. To-day the Sultan
sent on board this ship a giant bouquet of camellias and azaleas
to the ladies and some "loukoum" and it was passed round
at dinner.

Coming out to-night the outlines of the mosques were
beautiful, although there were still the dark heavy clouds.
It was gay at dinner to-night, every one seemed to be glad to
get away from Constantinople's dirt and Turks. To-morrow
at ten we start for the Black Sea and then returning sail for
Beyrout at one o'clock. Mr. M. thinks I will have brain fever;
I work so hard between seeing, reading up and writing. There
was a nurse, who had been with Weir Mitchell and had met
Joe, at the College at Scutari and that is how they happened
to write to me. I hope all understand that until I can stop
long enough somewhere I cannot write more than I do. I
am now writing in a small room with Mrs. E. singing La Tosca,
and lots of people talking. The decks are covered with rugs
and things for sale, and it is very cold so we are glad to stay
in and keep warm.

I am so tired and must go to bed. So hoping you

are all well and happy, and with love to all the family

and friends.

Your aff., M. D. R.

470

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

On Board after leaving Constantinople.

March nth, 1903.
Dear Frank and Sam,

We came out from Constantinople Monday at one o'clock
after a pleasant but very cold run up through the Bosphorus.
The German Ambassador and his wife. Baron Marshall von
Bieberstein, or something like that, were on board for the
trip, but no one met them but the German officers. She was
a perfect beauty. That evening at dinner we had quite a
surprise — first large bouquets were passed around that the
Sultan had sent on board and then each lady was presented
with a box of sweets and each man with a box of cigarettes.
The Sultan only does this for the passengers of the Auguste
Victoria and yet they say that from the moment we landed we
were shadowed constantly by detectives, though we were
not conscious of it, and I imagine we all spoke as freely as
we chose of the dreadful state of affairs. I remember say-
ing in a photograph shop that if I were the Sultan I would
sell the magnificent throne that was stolen from Persia
and clean and pave the streets. However I was not put
in prison for it.

Last evening at dinner five people had birthday parties and
champagne. Mine comes tomorrow, March 12th (my 57th),
and a young Swede has his to-day. At last the weather is fine
— it is sunny and very warm, but they tell us to prepare for
cold at Damascus as the Lebanon Mts. are covered with snow.
We are sitting on deck without wraps just as we would be in
the house and are seeing the West coast of Cyprus now at
3 p. M. In the night we passed the island of Rhodes and the
night before when we came out of the Dardanelles we were
close to the plains of Troy. It is hard to realize where we
are. We land at Beyrout early to-morrow morning and take
an early and special train to Baalbec, where we spend the first
night and then on to Damascus. I will write you from there.
I don't know whether I wrote you that the Sultan did not
have the Treasury opened for any of the steamers but the

471

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Auguste Victoria, and after we had seen it we were served
with coffee and rose conserve by his orders.

I regret every day, more, that you didn't come along.
You would have found agreeable companions among the men,
especially Mr. Fowler. He and his wife and Mrs. Stryker
and a Miss Stevenson, Clifford and myself have arranged
with Cook to be together on this trip and Jerusalem. I am
fortunate in feeling better than I have at all and feel so rested
to-day after two good nights on the ship. It seems so strange
that you have not yet had a line from us and I can imagine
the time seems long. Probably I shall find letters at Beyrout
to-morrow morning saying you have our first letters. I have
written constantly so you must get letters very frequently.

Hoping you are all well,

Your aff., M. D. R.

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus.
March 13th, 1903
Dear Frank,

Here we are in a Damascus Hotel, separated from some of
our party, as they were sent to Cooks' Hotel and we came
here. Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and I are in a corridor with oil
lamps for light; we have had our Turkish coffee and will go
to bed early as we are tired after a hard day's trip. I wonder
if I wrote you that on Sunday last we three went to Scutari
to service at the Woman's College, which is the counterpart
of the Roberts College in Constantinople. Miss Patrick was
delighted to see us and gave us tea and home sponge cake and
after having us shown all over the College took us to church,
where she gave a very good discourse to the pupils in English
and wore her cap and gown. They wanted us to stay to dinner,
but we could not spare the time.

It was very rough yesterday, Thursday morning, as
we anchored at Beyrout and the getting into the small
boats was most amusing and exciting. One man got
one leg into the water as he was awkward about getting

472

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

in. You would be surprised to see how skillfully I get
in and out and I really enjoy it. This time as the little
boat came up on a wave a big Arab seized me around the waist
and plumped me into the boat before I could utter a word of
protest. It was so rough that some people were actively sea-
sick before getting to the shore. A Cooks' party is always
rushing to get ahead and so we made a dash for the train and
made ourselves comfortable. Cook divided us into two sec-

THE TRAIN TO DAMASCUS

tions, Section i was to go to Baalbec and Section 2 direct to
Damascus. The train was of ist class carriages and most com-
fortable and part of the way is rack and pinion and very well
built. We began to climb the Lebanon Mountains at once and
never in my life have I seen such a view as unfolded before
us The earth was crimson and all shades of purplish pink,
and the blue Mediterranean back of it and the grey and yellow
rock of the mountains made a color effect in landscape I shall
never forget. I have seen colored views of Syria, which I

473

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

supposed were quite unnatural, but now I know they are true
to, life.

Also we saw our first camel trains, and the Arab head
dress The men wear a wrapper-like gown and belt and a
large handkerchief held on the head by two big black cords,
taking the place of a fez — a most picturesque head dress and
just like the Bible pictures.

BEYROUT, THE PORT OF DAMASCUS

Here we see the people seated along the rivers and others
about sitting on the house-tops and looking afar off. The
villages are all built one story high, with stone or adobe
blocks and have flat roofs, some with grass and as the train
goes by we see a man standing on his roof looking off, always
in blue and red gowns or wide Bagdad stripes.

We climbed to the highest part of the Lebanon Mts.
and up into the snow region, where we found it bitter
cold and descending came in view of the most fertile plain

474

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

in Syria with the Anti-Lebanon Mts. on the further s'de
and Mt. Hermon covered with snow, a magnificent spec-
tacle We lunched at Rayak, not too well, and then took
a branch road across the plain and up the hills again, arriv-
ing at Baalbec at 4.30 p. m. We went out at once, after
getting our rooms, as it was very clear and sunny, and went
all over the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter and of the Sun,
and were overwhelmed with the colossal grandeur of it all,

THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN, BAALBEC

beside which the ruins even of Athens seem tame. There were
the largest Cyclopean or early Greek stones we have seen
yet and in the quarry nearby was a block cut partly out 68
feet long by 13 feet thick, and square. Imagine all that, with
a background of snow mountains and a clear luminous atmos-
phere at sunset when there was a yellow light on the great
columns. It was quite easy to imagine how the great temple
of Jupiter looked by considering the work of the Arabs who
filled up the great portals of the front portico with stone to
serve as a fortification, as now existent and putting up the

475

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

columns In their places which are now strewn around in every
direction and the statues in their niches and the exquisite
carvings on the pediments and the lintels and around the
great doors and then thinking if you stood at the front por-
tico and looked through the three great courts with water in
a basin n each with marble enclosure carved exquisitely and
surrounded by the great roofed porticos where the most
florid carving decorated the capitals of the columns and the
roofs and lintels and all on a gigantic plan, the human mind
almost fails to comprehend it.

The moonlight was glorious that night and Mr. Fow-
ler and Clifford went out to view the temples again and
drifted into an Arab cafe where they got most delicious
coffee. Clifford was really enthusiastic about Baalbec and
was up and out early this morning to see it again It
was too bitter cold for us women to go out last night
and too difficult walking also. The Hotel is Cooks' and all
of stone and built so differently from any we have. It was so
high we went up two flgihts to get to the second floor and
where most of the space was occupied by an open room with
the bedrooms opening into it and down stairs the tables
were spread in the same open space. It was my birthday and
Mr. Fowler insisted upon having champagne and we had one
candle in an empty champagne bottle for decoration and had
lots of fun and then sat in Mrs. F's room and selected photos
from a sample book

Some of the rooms had little stoves, but mine had
none and you can't imagine the cold, with stone floors.
Fortunately I had my hot water bag and so was able to
have my bed warm. I was going to have a brazier in the
room, when Clifford protested and said it was dangerous.
It proved a lucky thing I did not as 22 people were
asphyxiated in the night, so much so they fell uncon-
scious on the floor, men as well as women. However they
recovered quickly. One woman shrieked fearfully. Mr.

Fowler heard the screams and half awake thought they were

476

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

murdering the Christians again as in i860. The silence
in such a place is most impressive and I enjoyed it. This
morning we had a long wait at the station as our train was
delayed because the Governor of the Province was on it, and
the whole town turned out. Veiled Moslem women and men
in the most picturesque costumes and women carrying chil-
dren astride the shoulder and all reminding one of the Bible
pictures. Our ride from the lunch place Rayak, where Noah is
reputed to be buried, was through wonderful mountain gorges
and as we got near here we saw great orchards of fruit trees
and rushing brooks and gardens. Of course the trees are only
just budding out and it is a pity it is not three weeks later.
The life in the streets here is most interesting and quite differ-
ent from anything we have seen. Crowds watched us buy
our photographs and followed us along the street and the
women stood still to look at us. I must cut this short as I
must get up at seven in order to be ready for Cook at nine,
so with much love, and hoping to hear from you soon,

Your aff.,

M. D. R.

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus.

15th March, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Our second day and I take a few minutes after lunch and
before going out to write you. We spent yesterday under
Cooks' tuition going about in carriages seeing the sights, the
grand Mosque, the tomb of Saladin and the window where
St. Paul was let down from the house on the wall and the
home of Ananias and Judas and Naaman. There are few
things to see, apart from the life in the streets, and in
the Bazaars, which are merely covered streets. Yesterday
was the last feast day and the streets were crowded with peo-
ple and carriages and camels and donkeys, and it is a constant
panorama— Persians, Syrians, Turks, Arabs, &c., in their dif-
ferent costumes.

477

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The Bavada river rushes through and they make a great
fuss over it, but it is not much as a river. The beauty of
Damascus Hes in its position in a fertile plain with the most
beautiful mountains as a frame. We went up on the terrace
(house top) last eve and the panorama was glorious. The
exquisite purplish tints of the Mountains and the warm
ecru of the houses and walls, with cypress trees and minarets

A GATE IN DAMASCUS

relieving the monotony of color, apricot and other fruit trees
in full bloom and the evergreen, orange and lemon trees and
down under a canopy the faithful saying their prayers, and
camels going by, and donkeys, and now and then a dervish
with high stove pipe hat without a brim.

Yesterday we were taken to see a Jewish house and then
a Christian one. Both were entered by very small doors in a
common wall from a street not over 15 feet wide, first came a

478

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

large court yard paved with marble inlaid pavement with
orange and lemon trees; from that we entered a very fine hall
with fountain at one end, magnificently carved marble, and
the other half raised about 2 feet above and intended to be
covered with rugs and used as a summer room. The walls
were all marble, carved in some places into trees and leaves
fully 1 8 inches deep. I don't suppose there is anything in
New York to compare with it in costliness. On going out
in the street we met a Jewish procession carrying an infant.
Two young girls were dressed like bridesmaids and a very
gorgeous cloth was thrown over the infant who was carried
on a cushion.

The Christian house was roomy but had none of the elegance
of the other. To-day we went first to the English church where
there were a few of our ship's party and then we went through
the Bazaars. There is a man named Asfar and we call him
"so far and no farther," where we found some attractive
things. The crowds follow us and look at us in astonishment
and we have a hard time to avoid camels and donkeys and
carriages. We were so tired when we got through bargaining
that we went to a cafe beside a rushing stream and had coffee,
while Clifford, with a fez on, smoked the long water pipe of the
country and watched the long processions of people returning
evidently from the country. We have had a very amusing
day and will never forget it. How I wish you could have
seen it all. There are more men in our Ship's company who
are older than you, than there are younger. We get no rest
from now to Cairo and rather dread the discomforts of Jeru-
salem— we have only two short nights on board ship, one to
Jaffa and another to Cairo. It is a strange sight to see the
women in their black costumes and veils, squatting along the
edge of the rivers. I must go to bed as we must rise at six.
We are going to the housetop to see the city by moonlight
en route to bed. Goodbye and with love to all and remem-
brances to the girls in the house.

Aff'ly, M. D. R.

479

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Damascus Palace Hotel, Damascus.

15th March, 1903.
Dear Father,

We have been with the Fowlers all the time and they are
very nice indeed. Mr. F. reminds me very forcibly of Mr.
Godfrey. He and I, at Baalbec, went out at night and visited
an Arab coffee house and had coffee with about 40 villainous
looking Arabs. To-day we each puffed a nargileh at a coffee
house here. At Baalbec the ruins were splendid and far out-
classed those at Athens. We all wish we had three or four
days to rest in aboard ship but, alas, we only reach it to-morrow
night at Beyrout to leave it the next morning at Jaffa for
Jerusalem. Then again we have no time for rest between
Jerusalem and Cairo. We are all pretty well sunburned, as
the country here is high and dry like Colorado with strong
sunlight and a reflected glare from the yellow sand. The
mountains are bare of trees and resemble strongly certain
parts of the foothills of the Rockies. We hope to find lots of
mail at Cairo when we get there.

With love, J. C. R.

Grand New Hotel, Jerusalem.

March 21st, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Each day I expected to write you at least a few words, but
I have worked so hard that I hardly had sense enough to get
to bed. This is our last day here as to-morrow we take the
train at seven o'clock for Joppa, We have just had tea in the
drawing room, when the German General I wrote you about
as being on the Auguste Victoria with a number of officers of
the Garde du Corps, Berlin, came in. I had not been intro-
duced before and I was glad to meet him — of course asked
him first if he knew Gen. von Camerer, and of course he did,
and then I asked about the Adelmanns and he said, "You
know Heinrich.^" — and he was so surprised and he knows all

our friends and the von Wellwarths, that Clifford and I visited

480

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

near Hohenstadt, are his relations. I hope now we may meet
Count Linar and Baron Wangenheim, who are his friends.
He knows Baron von Briisselie at Schaubeck, also.

This is the second week of hard work. As we left the
ship Tuesday morning we formed a party of eight so
we could have a guide to ourselves, and we just filled

ON THE WAY TO JERUSALEM

two carriages. Mr. and Mrs. Fowler, Mrs. Ervin and

Miss Smith, Mrs. Stryker and Miss Stevenson, beside

Clifford and myself. The water was very smooth at

Joppa, a very unusual thing, and we made the landing

without the least trouble. We had such fun at Beyrout

where it was quite rough, when Mr. Fowler, who is a

very big man, and myself were lifted bodily by the boatmen
31 481

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and put into the boat. Joppa was as filthy as every other
city under Turkish dominion, but interesting and we were
surprised with a good American "toot" from the Baldwin
locomotive. We crossed the Plain of Sharon and were inter-
ested in the mud villages, where each house had an enclosing
wall of the same material and the roofs were of turf so the
effect was as if the town had grown and not been made. While
these must be very uncomfortable they are most picturesque;
soon after we began to climb the hills of Judea and four hours
brought us to Jerusalem. Our first sight was the Tower of

VIEW OF JOPPA

David, from which he saw Bethsheba, the wife of his General,
and is now a fortress occupied by Turkish soldiers and has a
moat all around.

We came up to the Joppa Gate and into this Hotel
just inside the Gate This fortress was David's palace
and on the top of Mt. Zion. The city seems to consist
of hills and valleys and the Temple was on Mt. Moriah.
After lunch we started right off to the "Holy Sepulchre."
This consists of a group of churches, the Greek Catholic,
Roman, Armenian, Coptic and Abyssinian, around the spot

where tradition says Christ was buried. At first one is so

482

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

overwhelmed with the feeling of seeing the actual spot of
Christ's sufferings and burial that one longs to join the throngs
of pilgrims from every nation who are prostrating themselves
before the "Stone of Unction" and kissing it. To-day we
went to see the Greek Patriarch come in a triumphal proces-
sion to the Greek church and it was a magnificent sight. We

THE GATE, JOPPA

went in a high gallery w^here there were lots of women of all
nationalities. The floor of the church was thronged and the
priests and the patriarch were magnificent with solitaire
jewels, the latter blessed the people like the Pope.

The second morning we drove out to Bethlehem, where
things are more unchanged than in Jerusalem. In the church of
the Nativity they show a manger as the one where Christ was

483

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

born. The city walls dating from the eighth century are so
picturesque. The country is very picturesque and lovely with
wild flowers, some of which I have bought seeds of and hope
to raise them at Jamestown, and the walled roads climb up
and down and wind around the hills. We love this place and
feel sorry to go, as we would like to drive about the outlying

A STREET IN JERUSALEM

country at our leisure. That afternoon we went to see the

Mosqueof Omar,on the site of Solomon's Temple through which

the top of Mt. Moriah pierces. This rock, which is protected

by a railing, is where Abraham is supposed to have offered Isaac

in sacrifice and is very sacred to Jews and Christians. On the

ruins of the temple was a Roman temple. One wishes it

484

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

could all be excavated in the hope of seeing how it all used
to be. I cannot possibly describe all the things we have seen
and wish you would borrow a Syria and Palestine Murray
and read about it. We drove afterwards to the Mt. of Olives,
but it began to rain and we had no view.

The next day we started in three carriages for a two-days^
excursion to Jericho, the Dead Sea and the Jordan; we were
accompanied by a wucked-looking Bedouin on horseback with a
gun slung over his shoulder and a sword by his side and looking
exactly like one of Schreyer's pictures, and he turned out to be
an ex-brigand now employed in recent years as guard by the
Government. He escorted us all the way to the Dead Sea and
back and Cook had to pay him two francs for each person.
Our drivers were also armed but our worst dangers I should
say were from the road itself. Before the German Emperor
came here it was only possible to make the trip on horseback
and it is as bad as possible. We found quite a decent Hotel
at Jericho passing on the way a monastery on the spot where
Elijah was fed by the ravens and the hill where Christ fasted
for forty days and was tempted of the Devil, and Mt. Nebo
in the distance, where Moses first saw the Promised Land,
and the wilderness full of pelicans. Old Jericho was called
the City of Palms and now there is not one to be seen. A
dreadfully dangerous ride brought us to the Dead Sea, and
Clifford took a swim but it stung his eyes badly. Sodom and
Gomorrah are supposed to have been on the site of the Dead
Sea and nothing grows and not a bird or a fish. I was ter-
ribly frightened at the bad roads and the fording of streams.
It was a very sharp transition of climate from the cold of
Jerusalem to the heat of Jericho. We went down 3500 feet
and it was so warm that we sat out without wraps all even-
ing. I forgot to say we came back from the Dead Sea to the
Jordan, which is only a creek, and were shown the spot where
Christ was baptized and we filled our cans with Jordan water.
That night we slept warm for the first time on land since Nice
and started back early the next morning and visited Bethany

485

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

and saw the house of Mary and Martha. We also had a cold
lunch at the Apostles Fountain, in the tent which Cook
arranged for the German Emperor. I must stop now to pack
and get ready to arise at five o'clock to-morrow. I feel I am
just beginning to comprehend Jerusalem and now must go
away. With much love to all and hoping you do not find my
letters a bore. Your aff., M. D. R.

We all feel we must take the first day in Cairo to rest, as
we only spend the night on the ship and get off Monday morn-
ing at Alexandria.

Grand New Hotel, Jerusalem.

March 21st, 1903.
Dear Father,

The things that strike me most here are the filth and the
tawdriness of the decorations in the churches. The country
is very much like the west. In the valley of the Dead Sea
near Jericho this is particularly so. There are sand buttes
and arroyos backed by treeless mountains. The churches
have taken every chance to impress the poor and point out
the very spots where Christ stood, etc., even which hill he
was crucified on is in doubt. Mother met a General von Roeder
to-night who is on our ship, who knows the Adelmanns well
and I expect to meet him to-morrow. We have only six days
in Cairo and Mother is dead tired yet she talks of spending
her nights on sleeping cars to see the Temple of Karnac. I
hope she will change her mind. We expect lots of mail at
Cairo. With love to Aunt Fanny and Uncle Joe.

Your aff. son, J. C. R.

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo.

March 24th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

This is just to let you know that we arrived safely yes-
terday noon and have rooms looking over a beautiful garden
with palms and are getting rested from our severe Jerusalem
trip. The Fowlers and ourselves did not take Cook as we
were too tired. With love to you all.

Your aflF., M. D. R.

486

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

P.S. This hotel is the funniest combination of Paris and
Saratoga. There is a terrace between the door and street
where you sit and see all Cairo go by. We arrived at noon
and have done nothing but attend to different wants and
getting rested. We go this morning to the Pyramids. It is
fearfully expensive as we have a dragoman and have to pay
all his expenses as well. I had two letters from Countess
Adelmann — says she will not take a refusal to visit there. I
don't see how it is possible. I met Gen. von Roeder and he
knows Graf Adelmann well.

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo.

March 26th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Almost our whole ship's party has been obliged to rest

here or at least take it easy, as our two-weeks' steady travel-

MA.

THE GARDEN'S OF SHEPHEARDS HOTEL. CAIRO

ling in Syria had completely used us up. We are so happy
and comfortable here and would like to stay and not move on-

487

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

This Hotel is nearly perfect, and we have two single rooms
looking out on a beautiful garden with flowers and palm trees,
so that we have perfect quiet and yet at the front of the Hotel
is the busiest street in Cairo and we sit out on the Terrace
and have 5 o'clock tea and see every one and the merchants
crying their wares and the syces running in front of the car-
riages and every kind of equipage, so it is most amusing. The
first day we drove out to the Pyramids and rode on donkeys
around them and the Sphinx, but I was so timid I have had

CAIRO

to give up an excursion to-day where I would have had to
ride a donkey five hours, and I am resting to-day. Yesterday
Clifford and I went alone to the citadel and some mosques
and the Tombs of the Mamelukes. As elsewhere in the Arab
quarter filth and misery reign supreme. The people are too
lazy to wash their faces and the flies around the eyes of the
young children are a disgusting sight.

Elias came yesterday with his own carriage and took us
to the great Museum and to the Bazaars, and I met
Brugsch Bey at the Museum. The Fowlers had a letter to
Chaka Bey, who has charge of the Railways and between

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

the two we are invited to go to a swell wedding this eve-
ning. We are to stop at the Elias house en route. Out at
the Pyramids I meant to mention the Mena Hotel, a
most beautiful hotel, with every comfort, on the very
edge of the Desert. Many people spend the winter there
for lung and bronchial troubles. Some of our party start

THE TRIP TO THE PYRAMIDS

to-night on a trip up the Nile on dahabeahs, go with the
Cook party to Luxor. We leave here to-morrow and take the
night train to Luxor, spending two days only there and
coming back Sunday night straight to Alexandria and
go on the ship by noon. There are many tempting things
to buy but I am afraid my money will not hold out, so I have
to turn away. The Fowlers buy very lavishly. We are quite

489

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

excited about going to the wedding. Last night the gardens
of this hotel were illuminated and throngs of people threw
paper confetti and after there was a ball. It seemed a pity

THE SPHINX
M . D. R. tying her shoes

to spoil the clean grass and gravel and this morning they took

up wagon loads of it. Elias wanted to know all about you.

He has grown so stout I would not have known him — he

seems to have the same old friendly feeling. I fear he expected

me to buy valuable things at the Bazaars, but I didn't do it

all the same.

490

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

Mrs. Fowler thinks the front street here a combination of
Paris and Saratoga and I think not unlike. The food is deli-
cious and it would be a delightful place to stay. Mr. Fowler
is planning to come directly here another year and spend a
month on a dahabeah on the Nile. I cannot imagine anything
more restful and they say one has every comfort and even
luxury. I had to let the last of our Syrian trip go without a
description, but I look back on it all with delight. Jerusalem
in the olden times must have been a dream of beauty, but
now the unspeakable Turk has made it look like every place
where he rules, a wreck of the past. The Turks never repair
anything. We enjoy the uniforms of the English officers,
many of them staying here. Mr. Fowler sang all the way
from the Jordan — "Jordan am a hard road to trabble." He
is very funny. With much love to you.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo,

March 27th, 1903.
Dear Father,

We both like Cairo ever so much and I for one am sorry
to leave it for Luxor, where we go to-night. Edward Elias
has been most kind and has given me a beautiful scarab. Last
night we visited his wife and went on with him afterwards to
a Mohammedan wedding of very rich people. Mother and
Mrs. Fowler saw a lot but Mr. F. and I cooled our heels in
a tent and waited. Lost my Panama hat out of the window
of an express train and can't forgive myself. To-day is hot
and therefore pleasant as we really have been cold here. The
hotel is fine and very expensive. With love and hoping to
see you soon. J. C. R.

The Luxor Hotel, Luxor.

March 28th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

We took the train last night and had a dusty ride here,

where there is summer heat and flies intolerable. Fortu-

491

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

nately I wore a thin summer dress from Cairo and we got fly
switches, and then started for the Temple of Karnak, where
the French government is now excavating. There were
troops of natives heaving and hauHng and an overseer with
an ugly whip, so I imagine things are going on very much as
they did when the Jews had to work for Pharaoh. Even with
so many magnificent papyrus and lotus columns in place and
the hieroglyphics as distinct as when they were made it is

KARNAK

necessary to use one's imagination. The sacred lake is now a
dirty pond, but one can see the remains of walls and columns
and broken statues, which in ancient times were all about the
lake and the avenues of sphinxes, 500 on each side, from the
temple to the Nile and another at right angles with another
sort of sphinxes with ram's heads. Where they intersect
were four obelisks, one has fallen and they are trying to raise
it. All this was buried deep in rubbish and one wonders how
such enormous columns and walls were ever overthrown.

All the Cooks' people were away at the tombs of the Kings

492

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

493

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

at Thebes, so I took a good nap after lunch and then we went
to the Temple of Luxor, very near the Hotel, and also near
the Nile, This has also been excavated and a Mosque still
remains, built over one side. The English consul had a house
on top of one of the pylons, now they are going to clear away
the native huts and move the mosque so the rubbish will not

THE RIDE TO THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS, FROM LUXOR

collect again. Here were two great halls, one of papyrus
columns, big flutings, and the other of the lotus columns with
flaring capitals and magnificent statues, colossal size, stand-
ing between the columns and some colossal seated figures in
front of the gate on each side. After buying myself photos I
sat down to watch the sunset with some of the ship's party.
This was at last the Egypt of my dreams. All the dirt and

494

CONSTANTINOPLE, THE HOLY LAND AND EGYPT

flies disappeared and the sun left a red glow which made the
hills beyond the Nile (the Lyblan Hills) stand out sharply
and then all was reflected in the water. The boats moored
thickly at the banks with their curved masts made a wonder-
ful picture and the women going down with their empty water
vases poised on their heads and returning with them erect
and full, all these moving between us and this red glow, made
it worth while to take the journey. The flies, heat and dust
are the other side of the picture. The misery of the people
cannot be described — they get almost nothing to eat. To-
morrow we cross the river to Thebes and the Tombs of the
Kings and the sitting Colossi. I am going in a chair as I am
too afraid of donkeys. Goodbye, with love.

Aff., M. D. R.

We take the train to-morrow night direct to Alexandria.

ITALY

Am Bord, Auguste Victoria,
March 29th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Mr. Fowler to-day said I had better come home with him
on this same ship May 8th. When we got to Alexandria all
those of the ship's party who did not go to Luxor were there.
This evening at dinner every lady was presented with a small
bonbon box in solid silver as a souvenir of this cruise, and
the men had leather memorandum books. They certainly
try to please. We are fortunate still in weather, as there is
almost no motion. Now we have three nights and two days,
this being Monday evening, and we land at Palermo Thurs-
day morning and spend Friday at Messina and Taormina,
then on to Naples, where I will have to pack the things for
Clifford to take home. Enough for to-night. I will leave it
open until we get to Palermo.

Thursday, April 2nd.
We are just returned from our trip through Messina to
Taormina and are in raptures. Can you imagine a sea and
coast like the Riviera, but magnified and isolated and a town
perched up on a peak and a village of all stone and stucco
and a wonderful old monastery with a terraced garden hang-
ing hundreds of feet over the sea, with Mt. Aetna rising

behind it.'' The Monastery is the Hotel de St. Domenica

496

ITALY

where we had lunch and I didn't imagine that there was any-
thing on this earth so beautiful. There was not a blot or an
ugliness to mar it. The color of the water could only be com-
pared to gems and all the buildings and walls were yellowish
and pinkish white plaster overhung with wistaria, red and

ISOLA E CAPO S. LEO, TAORMINA

white geraniums and yellow and white daisies, the kind we
pay a dollar a dozen for, a perfect walled road took us to the
top. We were a Cooks' party but Cliff and I and the Fowlers
kept together. The whole town of Messina was out to see us
go and come. There were whole rows of columbaria and
Roman walls in this high village and a very fine Greek theatre.
I shall bring the pictures but the color you can never imagine.
32 497

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

IN THE CONVENT HOTEL, TAOR.MINA, SICILY

^ , ■■■- -* :^^,

THE GREEK THEATRE, TAORMINA
498

ITALY

We hope to see Stromboli about lo to-night in eruption. Only
a little smoke came from Mt. Aetna. Tomorrow we land at
Palermo, spend the day and then reach Naples Saturday
morning.

We see something of the German general who knows the
Adelmanns. We are going to stay on the ship until it leaves
Naples. I suppose you will feel badly that I don't come back
with Clifford, but I feel that I am here and cannot be sure of
getting here again and it will be only three weeks from the
time Clifford arrives that I shall also arrive. I am so tired I
.must not write any more, so good bye,

Your aff., M. D. R.

Auguste Victoria (Naples).

April 6th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

I expect to go to Sorrento by the way of Pompeii this
afternoon and have my luggage all ready to leave the ship.
We went to the Opera last night to hear La Tosca and the
house is beautiful and the performance very enjoyable. We
had lunch at the fine new hotel Bertolini, nearby, with a gor-
geous view. Clifford went up Vesuvius with some other people.

I shall be home just three weeks after Clifford and I haven't
courage to face the 14 days on the ship and I need a complete
rest on land before undertaking it. I will write immediately
on my arrival at Rome where I expect to spend two weeks.

With much love to you and Sam.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Rome, Saturday, April nth, 1903.
Dear Frank,

I arrived here on Thursday evening having left Naples at
2.57 that afternoon, Mrs. Elliot waiting for me. There was a
strike among the cab men so we had some trouble to get my
luggage to the house. Mrs. Elliot has a very nice apartment
in the new part of Rome, on high ground near the Palace of

499

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Queen Margherita. Directly behind the house is the best
preserved part of the old Aurelian wall and I look at it at
night in the moonlight before I go to bed, it is so picturesque.
The Fowlers went to the Grand Hotel. It was difficult to get
rooms in Rome just at this season. We shall probably go to
Paris together ten days from now. We went down to the
ship after all lunching together last Wednesday in Naples and
said goodbye to every one but did not stay until the ship
sailed. Clifford was delighted to go, but I imagine he was
very seasick, as there was a fearful storm that night. Our
Hotel was just back of the Promenade, with sea wall and the
surf struck with such force that it shook my bed. I was really
frightened and thought they were earthquake shocks.

I had a good rest yesterday morning and unpacked my
things. Then in the afternoon went out with Mrs. Elliot and
had tea at a pretty tea room on the Corso, a sort of charity
run by some Roman Countesses. After that we stopped at
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva and at the Pantheon. At the
latter we saw the tombs of Victor Emmanuel and Umberto
and many officers and soldiers were clustered about them and
there were lots of floral tributes. From there we arrived at
St. Peter's at six o'clock to hear the Miserere sung by the Sis-
tine Choir (the Pope's Angels they are called) without organ,
it being Good Friday. The music was of the highest order
and perfectly sung by beautiful voices. The church was very
full in the front half and quantities of officers. To-day we are
going to the Villa Medici and to call at the Hotel Royal and
perhaps walk in the Borghese gardens, which are just across
the street from here. To-morrow morning we get up very
early and go to St. Peter's at 8 o'clock to hear the Easter mass.
We take camp stools to rest on and I don't know how long we
shall be there. In the afternoon we drive on the Pincian Hill,
hoping to see the King and Queen and Queen Margherita.
Lunch is ready so good bye with love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

500

ITALY

Rome, April I2th, 1903.
Dear Clifford,

I was glad to get your letter from Genoa. We had a
frightful storm in Naples that night. My bed shook and
quivered and it seems there were earthquake shocks in Sicily
that night. The Potters invited me to go to the races to-mor-
row and to dine with them Wednesday evening at their hotel.
With love to your Father and Sam, and hoping you had an
agreeable voyage home and got through the custom house all
right. Your aff., M. D. R.

Rome, April 17th, 1903.
Dear Frank,

How the time flies and where it goes I cannot imagine.
In a few days Clifford will be at home. I have been sight-
seeing in Rome, going over some of the old ground and trying
to recall the past. It has been quite cold here, bat yester-
day and day before were fine. We took advantage of the fine
weather to go to Tivoli Wednesday and had a perfect day.
The villa d'Este was most beautiful with its wonderful cypress
trees and gardens and fountains. We had lunch, which we
took with us, in a beautiful court on a great marble table, with
such a view of Rome as I could never describe. We also saw
all the cascades and went to the very lowest part of the won-
derful rocky basins where the Anio rushes through. Then we
went to Hadrian's villa, a very large ruin and home by the
trolley.

Sunday being Easter we went to St. Peter's and were
lucky enough to get seats in one of the tribunes. Cardinal
Rampolla officiated and it was the greatest mummery I ever
saw, and not at all the magnificent spectacle I saw at Christ-
mas time many years ago. In the afternoon we drove first in
the Borghese gardens, so lovely, and then on the Pincian. In
the latter you could not call it driving, as we were at a stand-
still most of the time, the crowd was so tremendous. We
dined at the Grand Hotel in the evening, as that is where one

501

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

must go to see the fashionable world. We drove out the Via
Appia Nuova, and across the Campania and the views of the
Sabine hills and Frascati were most lovely. Wednesday morn-
ing was the rag fair, which takes place once a week and all the
world was there, and it was great fun. In the evening I dined
at the Hotel Royal and made an engagement to drive today
to the Villa Doria-Pamiili. Unfortunately it was a very bad
day and we went instead to the Barberini Palace and to Cas-
tellani's. The latter, the jeweller, was there in his store and
he said the one who came to Philadelphia was the antiqua-
rian. When I asked him about Mme. Castellani he said he
did not know her, she had never been presented to him.

From there we met the Elliots at the Baths of Diocletian
near the Grand Hotel to visit the studio of Mr. Ezekiel, it being
his reception day. His studio is one of the sights of Rome and
the approach up an incline with trellis of wistaria and roses in
full bloom and walls of antique marble and busts, leads to a
big room under the old Roman arches which he has made by
putting in a floor, at the proper height. We saw a model of
the monument of Thomas Jefferson which he has just put up
at Louisville and a bust of Anthony Drexel, which he is work-
ing at for a gigantic statue, an excellent likeness. I called at
the embassy one day and left my letter and received a card
the next day for the Wednesday reception. Mrs. Elliot and
I went and were amazed at the magnificence of the home,
such a palace, with old glorious gardens right in the heart of
Rome and such decorations and tapestries and pictures. One
room was in white velvet. I also presented the letter to Mrs.
Haseltine, which Mrs. Smith gave me and was invited to
lunch yesterday. I found another palace, very old, and full of
art treasures, and we had lunch informally in a small room.
Mrs. H. made herself very agreeable. I met the Fowlers
to-day and they are going on to Paris to-morrow and will get
me a room at the Hotel Perouse, near the Columbia, where
they are going to stay. I did not present my letter to Lanci-

ani, and am sorry as the Fowlers said he was delightful.

502

ITALY

Last night Mrs. Elliot and I went to the Opera at the
Costanzi Theatre to see a new opera "Germania" which had
one good singer, a splendid orchestra and wonderful scenery.
Very few people in the house as the King and Queen don't
go. I had a nice letter from Mrs. Hazard, saying she expected
some New York people to be staying with her the last of
April, but that if they didn't come she wanted me to stay
there, but in any case to come to some nearby hotel where
she would be in touch with me.

I got the rosaries blessed by the Pope, which I bought at
the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and at Bethlehem.

I shall be with you again before you know where you are.
So good bye with much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Rome, April 2ist, 1903.
Dear Frank, Cliff and Sam,

I am leaving here to-morrow night alone, in a through
train to Paris, arriving Thursday night. I should have to
wait until the first of next week to have company only as far
as Florence. I am going to the Hotel La Perouse, near the
Arc de Triomphe, where the Fowlers are. The Potters took
me for a lovely drive to the Villa Doria-Pamfili on Monte
Janiculum passing Tasso's oak and the church where he is
buried. The mountains in the distance are thickly covered
with snow, and they say it has snowed in Paris. It has been
very cold here and they say they have never known such
cold. The Elliots have been more than kind and I have
enjoyed my stay very much. It is a sort of picnic all the time.
They have an excellent cook and we revel in fresh peas and
asparagus. I miss Clifford very much and don't like the idea
of being alone. I shall write again as soon as I get to Paris.

With much love. Your aiT., M, D. R.

FRANCE

Paris, Wed., April 29th, 1903.
Dear Frank and all,

Sunday night. Mr. Fowler sent us word that as it was
rainy and dull he wanted me to go out to dinner with them
so we went to the Tour d' Argent and he enjoyed it very
much. Monday he met Mrs. Fowler and myself and we were
to go to a little place to lunch so as not to come all the way
back here, but he insisted upon going to Durand's. We had
coffee and it upset me so I did not go to Mrs. Hazard's in the
evening. Yesterday when I got back at five I found a formal
invitation from the F's to dine at Paillard's with them and no
Jersey business. It was very gay and we brought home sou-
venir fans. Mrs. Spencer Biddle called at once, that is, Monday.

I went late this afternoon to call on the Rochambeaus and
found the old Marquise at home, and she seemed really pleased
to see me, kissed me at least ten times and has asked me there
to dinner. She called in the youngest son, Guy, a tall, fine-
looking fellow, who had to go back to-night to his work in
some school. As I was sitting down stairs here in the hotel they
were talking over the phone, the Due de Luynes, "attendra la
Princesse de Pless," au cercle du Rue Royal; high sounding
names are they not?

They are making great preparations for King Edward,
decorating the streets, &c., and everything will be closed
Friday and Saturday on his account.
With much love,

Your aff., M. D. R.

504

FRANCE

Paris, Sunday, May 3rd, 1903.
Dear Frank,

Since I wrote you on Wednesday I have been very busy
going about shopping and sightseeing and having a good time.
Thursday eve. we went over to the Cafe Foyot in the Rue de
Tournon, a real old fashioned French cafe, and went after-
wards to the Concert Rouge that Mrs. Sims told me about,
and where you hear excellent music and people take ices and
drinks and smoke. Friday I tried to make a return to the
Fowlers and took them to Cafe Durand for dinner and to the
Opera. King Edward arrived Friday and the streets were all
illuminated and it was worth seeing. He went to the Opera
Saturday night, but no one could buy seats as it was only by
invitation. The Opera was full, however, all the boxes occu-
pied, but the performance of Tannhauser was very ordinary.
I did not care to stand hours in the street to see the King so
I have not seen him at all. Yesterday the Fowlers and I went
to the Salon (the Split) and found better pictures on the whole
than at the old salon. Mr. F. made an offer for two pictures,
one by Harrison and the other by Courtois and we came up
to the cake shop on the corner of Ave. Victor Hugo and Rue
Presbourg and had tea and strawberries and delicious cakes.
The people were crowding in after coming from the races and
it was very gay. I don't remember if I wrote you I went to
see the Marquise de Rochambeau and she was so glad to see
me. She called yesterday and left a note asking me to dinner
on Wednesday. I got back just in time to go with the Fowlers
to dine at Noel and Peters and had a fine dinner. To-day we
went to the Madeleine and St. Roch and lunched at Viau's,
and have dined here at the hotel. They leave to-morrow
morning for London and will have a special compartment in
the train and on the boat. I sail Friday and this is my last
letter, so good bye and hoping to see you in New York, with
much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

505

THE JOURNEYS OF 1906

After the long excursion of 1903 the "Wanderlust" re-
turned and the following years were filled with studies of new
scenes and historic places to be visited.

With her niece as companion and with a desire to give her
the benefits of travel, Mrs. Rosengarten sailed from New
York, aboard the Steamship Celtic February 13th, 1906,
visiting Fayal and the Azores, thence to Gibraltar, Naples,
Sorrento, Pompeii, Amalfi, La Cava and Ravello, "a spot like
Heaven!" A visit to Taormina, Paestum Salerno, Messina,
Palermo, Syracuse, Naples and to Capri, Anacapri and
Rome for Easter week was also made.

Then began the long thought of tour to the Hill Towns
of Italy — Orvieto, Bracciano, Villa Lante, Viterbo, Forter-
ezzo, Montefiascone, Spoleto, Assisi, Foligno and Spello,
Perugia, Siena, Trevi, Florence, Fiesole, Venice, Verona and
over the Brenner, through the Tyrol on to Aiunich. Thence
to Augsburg and Ulm, to Sigmaringen for a visit to the Count
and Countess Adelmann, to Zurich, Hohentviel, Rhine Falls
at Schaffhausen, thence to Paris, to Dover, Canterbury and
London, sailing for New York on May 21st from Dover.

F. H. R.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1906

Aboard S. S. Celtic Feb. 13, 1906 515

J. P. Morgan aboard. . .Feb. 13, 1906 515

He holds ship for visit to

Fayal, etc Feb. 22, 1906 517

Not as beautiful as Ma-
deira Feb. 23, 1906 518

Magnolia trees, gera-
niums and roses in full
bloom Feb. 23, 1906 518

Portuguese only language Feb. 23, 1906 518

Courteous resident shows

his gardens Feb. 23, 1906 5 19

Rough experience return-
ing to the ship Feb. 23, 1906 519

Ponta Delgada Feb. 23, 1906 520

Rough Landing at Fayal Feb. 26, 1906 520

Hotel Bruno, frisia in

full bloom Feb 26, 1906 520

Battle of flowers, pelted

with flowers Feb. 26, 1906 521

Lillies, camellias, frisia,

acacia, etc Feb. 26, 1906 521

Impressive look of ship at

night Feb. 26, 1906 522

Landing at Gibraltar. . .Feb. 28, 1906 523

The sights of Gibraltar,

Bougainvillea vines . .Feb. 28, 1906 523

Shrove Tuesday and

crowds of people Feb. 28, 1906 523

Arab market Feb. 28, 1906 523

Concert for Seamen's

Home Feb. 28, 1906 524

Grand Hotel, Naples Mar. 2, 1906 525

Discomforts of getting on

land— rain Mar. 2, 1906 525

Hotel superb Mar. 2, 1906 525

Othello at the Opera Mar. 4, 1906 526

Red lava rolling down

from Vesuvius Mar. 4, 1906 526

After rain and warmth

very cold Mar. 4, 1906 527

Cathedral and Bertolini .Mar. 4, 1906 527

$40 a day for automobile. Mar. 4, 1906 527

Sorrento Mar. 4, 1906 527

Beautiful weather Mar. 6, 1906 527

Pozzuoli, Cape Mi sense

and Baise Mar. 6, 1906 528

Grotto of Posilipo and

the new grotto Mar. 6, 1906 528

Solfatara, old port of

Caligula Mar. 6, 1906 528

Villas of Cicero and Sal-
lust Mar. 6, 1906 528

Falernian wine Mar. 6, 1906 529

Lucrene Lake and Lake

Avernus Mar. 6, 1906 529

Grotto of the Cumsean

Sybil Mar. 6, 1906 529

Hard time getting to sta-
tion Mar. 6, 1906 530

Pompeii Mar. 6, 1906 530

Beauty of the coast to

Sorrento Mar. 6, 1906 530

Tarantella Mar. 6, 1906 530

Amalii Mar. 7, 1906 531

Features of people chang-
ing Mar. 7, 1906 531

Climb 270 steps Mar. 7, 1906 531

La Cava Mar. 9, 1907 532

Paestum Mar. 9, 1906 532

Ravello Mar. 9, 1906 532

A spot like heaven Mar. 9, 1906 533

Wonderful mosaic pulpit Mar. 9, 1906 533

Taormina Mar.ii, 1906 533

Temple of Ceres at

Pajstum Mar. 1 1, 1906 534

Picnic on the Altar of the

Basilica Mar.il, 1906 534

Salerno to Messina Mar.ii, 1906 534

Splendid Mountain Scen-
ery Mar.ii, 1906 534

Reggio, across the straits
in 20 minutes to Mes-
sina Mar.ii, 1906 535

Palermo car on the boat .Mar.ii, 1906 535

Warm drive to Taormina Mar.ii, 1906 536

Hotel Timeo Mar.ii, 1906 536

Mt. JEtna and beauty

everywhere Mar.ii, 1906 536

Gardens of hotel so beau-
tiful Mar.ii, 1906 536

Mr. Wood's studio,

Taormina Mar.ii, 1906 536

Domenico Convent Hotel Mar.ii, 1906 537

Mola Mar.ii, 1906 537

M. D. R.'s birthday Mar.ii, 1906 538

Funny description of her
trip in the grotto of the

Cumsean Sybil Mar.i i, 1906 538

Scare in sleeping car Mar.ii, 1906 538

Grand Hotel Villa Politi

Syracuse Mar.17, 1906 539

Girgenti and the Temples Mar.17, 1906 539
Greek theatre and Roman

amphitheatre, SyracuseMar.17, 1906 540

Almond trees in full bloomMar. 17. 1906 54c
The Faraglioni (Rocks

thrown by Polhemus) .Mar.17, 1906 540

Fort Euryalus Mar.17, 1906 540

511

INDEX

Grand Hotel Des Pal-
mes, Palermo Mar.

Capella Palatina Mar.

Monreale Mar.

Villa Tasca, ideal gardens. Mar.
By steamer to Naples. . . .Mar.

Capri Mar.

St. Lucia and Sorrento. . .Mar.
Hotel Luisisana, Capri. . .Mar.

Colder than Sicily Mar.

Anacapri Mar.

Visit to the villa of the

Bodines Mar.

Barbarossa Castle Mar.

Very rough voyage to

Naples Mar.

Savoy Hotel, Rome Mar.

500 hotels and pensions

crowded in Rome Mar.

The Pantheon, Ara Coeli

and the Capitol Mar.

Hail, rain and sunshine

cold Mar.

Tea at the "Excelsior" a

great sight Mar.

Rome Mar.

Borghese gallery and the

garden Mar.

Palace Hotel, Rome Apr.

Weather very cold Apr.

Rag Fair " Campodi Fiori"Apr.
Prof. Reynault's lecture

at the Palatine Hill .... Apr.
St. Paul's on the Appian

Way Apr.

Vatican Apr.

Colonna, Corsini and

Rospigliosi Palaces. . .Apr.
Tea Rooms, Piazza di

Spagni Apr.

Coliseum illuminated

with Bengal lights. . . .Apr.

Lanciani Apr.

Tunnel under the Quirinal.Apr.
Ruins not as interesting

as formerly Apr.

Sacristy at St. Peter's,

Rome Apr.

Fragments of Malazzo di

Fiorli's frescoes Apr.

Baths of Titus, golden

house of Nero Apr.

San Clement's Apr.

"A day with St. Paul". . .Apr.

English cemetery Apr.

Monument of Story to his

wife Apr.

Tomb of Caius Cestius. .Apr.

Aurelian Wall Apr.

Basilica of St. Paul Apr.

Catacombs of Domitilla. .Apr.
Alban Hills and Sabine

Mountains Apr.

.21,

1906

541

.21,

1906

542

.21,

1906

542

.21,

1906

S43

.22,

1906

543

.22,

1906

543

.22,

1906

544

,22,

1906

544

.22,

1906

544

.22,

1906

544

.22,

1916

544

.22,

1906

545

•2';,

1906

546

•25,

1906

546

•25.

1906

546

•25.

1906

546

•25,

1906

546

•2=;,

1906

546

.26,

1906

547

.26,

1906

547

1906

547

1906

547

1906

S4«

1906

548

1906

548

1906

548

■ I,

1906

549

1906

549

1906

549

1906

550

1906

550

1906

550

1906

551

1906

551

1906

551

• 3.

1906

551

1906

552

1906

552

• 3,

1906

552

■ 3,

1906

552

• 3,

1906

552

■ 3,

1906

552

■ 3,

1906

552

3, 1906 552

Tomb of Cecilia Metella. Apr. 3, 1906 552

Circus Maxentius Apr. 3, 1906 552

Baths of Caracalla Apr. 3, 1906 552

Church of San Sebastian. Apr. 3, 1096 552

Professor Tani Apr. 3,1906 553

Opera " Rheingold, I'oro

di Reno" Apr. 3, 1906 553

Magnificently staged but

too funny in Italian. . .Apr. 5, 1906 554
San Lorenzo, outside the

walls, Pius 9th's tomb. Apr. 5, 1906 554

Orvieto Apr. 8, 1906 555

Viterbo Apr. 8. 1906 555

Difficulty in getting to

Trastevere station Apr. 8, 1906 555

Ride across the Cam-

pagna Apr. 8, 1906 555

Change of climate cross-
ing Cimian Hills Apr. 8, 1906 555

Bracciano Apr. 8, 1906 555

Castle of Orsini Apr. 8, 1906 555

Caprainca Apr. 8, 1906 555

Etrurian plain to Viterbo. Apr. 8,1906 556
Padrone of hotel a good

guide Apr. 8, 1906 556

Villa Lante, Bagnaja Apr. 8, 1906 556

The Munlcipio Apr. 8, 1906 556

Etruscan sarcophagi Apr. 8, 1906 556

Viterbo, ancient palace of

the Popes where Pope

John 22nd was killed. .Apr. 8, 1906 556
The Santa Pellegrina

quarter Apr. 8, 1906 557

Bridge over the ravine

and mediaeval towers. Apr. 8, 1906 557
Gate with three arches. . .Apr. 8, 1906 557
Duchess Di Lante, was

Miss Allen of St. Louis Apr. 8, 1906 557
Orvieto, and the Funicular

Railway Apr. 8, 1906 558

Curious bed warmers. .. .Apr. 8, 1906 558

Beautiful Cathedral Apr. 8, 1906 559

Gregorian music, the bish-
op officiating Apr. 8, 1906 559

Frescoes in the side Chapel

of Luca Signorelli Apr. 8, 1906 559

Forterezzo Apr. 8, 1906 560

Terrifying depths visible

from parapets Apr. 8, 1906 560

San Patrizio, Etruscan

Necropolis Apr. 8, 1906 560

Wine of Montefiascone

called Est, Est, Est. . . .Apr. 8, 1906 561

Spoleto Apr. 9, 1906 561

News of the eruption of

Vesuvius, a dreadful

tragedy Apr. 9, 1906 561

Orte Apr. 9, 1906 562

A"priest" to warm thebedApr. 9,1906 563
Paintings by Lo Spagna in

the Municipio Apr. 9, 1906 564

Through trap door to see

Roman Bridge Apr. 9,1906 564

512

INDEX

Drive to Assisi, Foligno

and Spello Apr. 9,

Perugia Apr. 1 2,

San Pietro, stalls of

Raphael Apr. 12,

Siena Apr. 14,

Terontola, misfortunes of

a German couple Apr. 14,

Chiusi and its Etruscan

museum Apr. 14,

Trevi, Foligno, Spello. . . .Apr. 14,
Christ in the Temple

among the Doctors. . . .Apr. 14,
Assisi and the Umbrian

Plain Apr. 14,

"Porginneula, " where St.

Francis began life Apr. 14,

Thornless rose trees. . . .Apr. 14,
Assisi and the works of

of Giotto and Cimabue Apr. 14,
The Duomo and Santa

Chiava Apr. 14,

Drive to Perugia Apr. 14,

Hotel Brufani and Pal-
ace Hotel Apr. 14,

Roman and Etruscan

gates and museum . . . .Apr. 14,
Baglioni's Castle, Porta

Marcia Apr. 14,

Piazza Municipio Apr. 14,

Collegio del Gambia Apr. 14,

Cathedral and high mass

at Perugia Apr. 14,

San Gimignano and

Poggibonsi Apr. 14,

The park called "The

Lizza" Apr. 14,

Grand Hotel, Siena Apr. 15,

Easter Sunday Apr. 15,

Cathedral and Piccolo-
mini chapel Apr. 15,

Castello of Belcaro Apr. 15,

Bastions of the Fort Santa

Barbara Apr. 15,

Ride to Monte Oliveto. .Apr. 16,

Porta Romana Apr. 16,

Envying automobile

travellers Apr. 16,

Mediaeval palaces on the

Corso Apr. 16,

Piazza VittorioEmmanueleApr. 16,
Palazzo Publico, Maugia.Apr. 16,
Academia delle Belle

Arte Apr. 16,

"Adoration of the Magi"

San Agostino Apr. 16,

Siena not as beautiful as

Perugia Apr. 16,

Anglo-American Hotel,

Florence Apr. 18,

San Gimignano Apr. 18,

Uffizi Gallery Apr. 19,

Ponte Vecchio Apr. 19,

News of the San Fran-

906 564 cisco earthquake Apr. 19, 1906 578

906 565 At Orvieto when Vesuvius

erupted Apr. 19, 1906 578

906 566 Letter from Countess

906 566 Adelmann Apr. 19, 1906 578

Fiesole Apr. 21, 1906 578

906 566 Trees out, rose bushes in

full bloom Apr. 21, 1906 578

906 567 Roman theatre, Hotel

906 567 Aurora Apr. 21, 1906 578

Bargello, Palace of the
906 567 Podesta Apr. 21, 1906 580

Jewelry shops on the
906 568 Ponte Vecchio Apr. 21, 1906 580

Hotel Royal Danieli,

906 568 Venice Apr. 26, 1906 580

906 568 Ride over the Apennines,

45 Tunnels Apr. 26, 1906 581

906 568 Venice as surprisingly

beautiful as ever Apr. 26, 1906 581

906 569 Campanile unfinished. .. .Apr. 26, 1906 581
906 569 Two hours in the Doges'

Palace Apr. 26, 1906 581

906 569 Bought lace Apr. 26, 1906 581

St. Maria della Salute. . . .Apr. 26, 1906 582
906 570 Frari and Canova's TombApr. 6, 1906 582

Private gondolas Apr. 26, 1906 583

906 570 Don Carlos and his wife. . .Apr. 26, 1906 583

906 570 Difficulties in getting

906 570 tickets to Munich Apr. 28, 1906 583

Murano and the glass
906 571 works in the glass com-
pany's gondola Apr. 28, 1906 583

906 571 English warship Drake,
Prince Louis of Batten-

906 571 berg Apr. 28, 1906 584

906 572 Wonders of St. Mark's. .Apr. 28, 1906 584
906 572 Leaving Venice Apr. 29, 1906 584

Difficulties at Verona
906 572 getting R.R. tickets. . .May 2, 1906 585

906 572 Botzen and the Brenner

Pass May 2, 1906 585

906 573 Arrival at Munich May 2, 1906 586

906 573 Freiherr Von Soden,

906 573 meeting us May 2,1906 586

Grand affair at Munich in

906 573 House of Peers May 2,1906 586

Son of Prince Karl Theo-

907 574 dore made a Peer May 2, 1906 586

906 574 The Mother of the Prince. May 2,1906 587
906 574 Many interesting officials

and uniforms May 2, 1906 587

906 575 Curious sensation sitting

in Box with Royalty. .May 2, 1906 587

906 575 Augsburg and Ulm May 2,1906 588

Arrival at Sigmaringen. . .May 2, 1906 588
906 575 Familiar scenes after

visits of 1897, 1900 and

906 576 1903 May 2, 1906 588

906 576 Many improvements, cor-
906 577 dial reception by Count

906 577 and Countess Adelmann May 2,1906 588

INDEX

General von Camerer . . . .May 2, 1906 588
Count and Countess

Bruhl, Governor of Ho-

henzollern Sigmaringen May 2, 1906 589
Snowed four times during

drive May 2, 1906 589

Inzigkofen, missed the old

Prince since his death. .May 2, 1906 589
Castle beautiful and fin-
ished May 2, 1906 589

Zurich, Baur-au-Lac May 3, 1906 589

Immendlngen, wonderful

cars May 3, 1906 589

Hohentviel near Singen

(Ekkehard) May 3,1906 590

Rhine Falls and SchafT-

hausen May 3, 1906 590

Sights in Zurich May 3, 1906 590

Paris, Hotel Belmont. . . .May 5, 1906 591
Ride to Paris rough and

uncomfortable May 5, 1906 591

Call of Rochambeau

family May 7, 1906 592

Invalides, Luxembourg

gardens May 7, 1906 592

Pantheon, St. Etienne,

Notre Dame, old

Louvre, St. Germain,

I'Auxerrois May 7, 1906 592

Tea at Columbin's May 7, 1906 592

Tea at Rumpelmeyer's . . .May 8, 1906 592

Lord Berwick, Miss

Noel-Hill May 8, 1906 592

Versailles, Hotel des

Reservoirs May 13, 1906 593

Residence of Mme. de

Pompadour May 13, 1906 593

Samson and Delilah at the

Grand Opera May 13, 1906 593

Alvarez as Samson, Mme.

Heglou as Delilah May 13, 1906 593

The Cid at the theatre

Francais May 13, 1906 594

St. Sulpice May 13, 1906 594

VVidor at the Organ May 13, 1906 594

AL-ideleine May 13, 1906 594

Bois de Boulogne, Put-

eaux Club, Neuilly. . . .May 13, 1906 595
The Cascade and Lakes. .May 13, 1906 595
Lunch to Rochambeaus

at the Ritz May 13, 1906 595

Journey to Dover May 17, 1906 596

Madame Marchesi May 17, 1906 596

M. D'Aillieres and Baron

Boulay de la Meurthe. May 17, 1906 596
Dinner given by Count

and Countess Rocham-
beau May 17, 1906 596

Canterbury May 18, 1906 598

Hotel Metropole, Lon-
don May 21, 1906 598

Sailing for home from

Dover May 21, 1906 598

EN ROUTE

Feb. 13th, 1906.
Aboard S. S. "Celtic."
Leaving New York.
Dear Frank,

When you were so far away as to be indistinct, we found
Mr. and Mrs. Fowler and proceeded to hunt up our deck
chairs. It does seem as if this separation were unnecessary
and that you would have enjoyed immensely the whole
trip. Pierpont Morgan came out on deck. We could see you
distinctly until we were going quite fast and then we ran to
the other side when the ship turned.

We got in here just in time for the people are now crowding.
The steam toot was tremendous; and did you hear the bugle .^
We are starving, but there is no prospect of lunch that I can
see. The lunch bugle has just sounded, so I now hope we may
get something. With much love for you all, and greetings to
all the family. Affectionately yours, M. D. R.

P. S. — My next letter will tell you all about the voyage
and will be posted at Gibraltar and will probably be almost
three weeks from now in getting to you.

Monday, Feb. 19th, 1906, 6.30 P. M.
Aboard S. S. "Celtic."
Dear Frank and Boys,

Having been driven in from deck by showers I have time
to write awhile, the first sitting for dinner being in progress
and we do not dine until 7.15. Laura has complained of the

515

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

ocean that she might as well be sailing on the Potomac, for
until noon today there has been absolutely no motion, but
while we were at lunch the ocean became covered with white
caps and the ship began to roll. Fortunately none of us feel
the slightest inclination toward seasickness as no doubt we
have become used to the ship in these two smooth days. I
have not got up early in the mornings, but once up have spent
the day until bedtime on deck.

Mr. Morgan plays bridge the entire day in his parlor and
is only seen at lunch and dinner. I occasionally talk with the
Canadian ladies and Miss Hallowell, but am generally asleep
in my chair beside Mrs. Fowler. Laura is radiantly happy
and is hoping it will be very rough.

We had a terrible shock the first night when we found the
wine pantry and the place where they wash the knives was
up against the wall of our stateroom, and we only slept from
1 1 .30 to 4.30, when the noise began again. I went to the purser
who said there was only one stateroom on the ship and that
an inside one on the lowest deck, but said he would see that
the noise diminished. It was much better last night and we
had a good sleep.

To-night it is so rough they must close the portholes and I
fear it will be stuflpy. I wish for you every day — am sure you
would have been comfortable. We are one deck too low down
for comfort. I said today that you would have made the
acquaintance of all the men in the smoking room and Mr.
Fowler said you had a very winning personality.

Mrs. F. thinks he is weakening over the four-days' trip to
Alexandria, so they may change and go with us to Sicily. I
do hope so. I shall go to Cooks' at once on arriving at Naples
and arrange a tour down the Italian coast to Reggio and Sicily
and back by steamer from Palermo to Naples.

The food is excellent and very daintily served, and we have

stuffed Hamburg grapes as the Fowlers had so many baskets

of fruit. I also was surprised to find in my cabin a big box

of Maron candy from Mrs. Jordan, which caused me much

pleasure as well as surprise.

516

EN ROUTE

Thursday, Feb. 22nd, 1906.

Although there is a howling roaring storm outside the ship
is as steady as a house, and no one shows the slightest symp-
tom of illness. This weather is a great disappointment to all,
as we arrive at Fayal tomorrow early and if it is rough and
stormy we cannot land in little boats. They do not usually
land here but Mr. Pierpont Morgan fortunately wished it.
We were to spend the day there and spend Saturday at Ponta
Delgada, which would bring us to Gibraltar on Tuesday and
Naples Friday morning.

Laura is as happy as possible and perfectly well. Tell
Sam to read the "Conquest of Canaan," by Booth Tarking-
ton. It is full of law and will interest him.

Mr. Smith, Commodore of the New York Yacht Club, sits
at the next table with a big family, and I never saw such a lot
of things as he has with him; sent Mr. Fowler last night corn
on the ear and champagne. Their table is covered with flowers,
fresh every day and every sort of fruit and candy. We dipped
into Mrs. Jordan's box the first time last night.

Pierpont Morgan it seems expected to take his son and
family with him, but they were prevented by sickness, and
he invited the Hollands. I suppose the only way is to take
your own party with you. Some people dress a great deal.
The Vanderbilts, mother and daughter, the plainest possible.

If we land at Fayal we will post some cards but I shall
send this from Gibraltar as you will get it sooner. There
doesn't seem to be any one for us to cling to, so I suppose we
shall go our own way and perhaps meet more interesting
strangers.

Fayal, Friday, Feb. 23rd, 1906.

Well, to-day the sun rose and dispersed the clouds and we
had a fine view of the islands, the Azores, and although the
water was far from smooth, we got into the small boats and
went ashore.

Mr. Fowler was much upset by hearing of the death of
Mr. McCall of the New York Life Insurance Co., and was also

517

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

afraid of the getting into the small boats in such rough weather,
so did not go. We certainly went up and down and Laura
enjoyed it hugely.

It is not as beautiful as Madeira but still is beautiful. We
walked along the first main street past the old Fortress where
soldiers were standing on guard and past a little park, with
magnolia trees, geraniums and roses in full bloom. I never
saw greater cleanliness, houses and streets immaculate. The
women wear cloaks not unlike our Shakers with enormous

THE HARBOR AT FAYAL

hoods wired to hold them out. There were no horses, only
mules, donkeys and oxen. The drays have wicker tops and
solid wooden wheels.

The church was up high above the street and only interest-
ing for its lining of blue and white tiles forming large sacred
pictures. We had lunch at the Fayal Hotel where they did
not speak a word of anything but Portuguese. The bread,
coffee and oranges were delicious and with an omelette made a
very good lunch. Miss Hallowell told us they had gone at
once to the Dabney House, built in 1810 by Mr. Dabney and
occupied by several generations of Dabneys, whom she knew

518

EN ROUTE

very well. Mr. and Mrs. Wood live there at present and
showed them all over the house and grounds, where there are
still furnishings belonging to the Dabneys.

Of course I knew nothing of this place, but it seems Mr.
Morgan had been here when he was 14 years old and it was
to please him the ship stopped to-day.

After our lunch we took a carriage and drove up and back
on the mountain where we had a superb view. A man stopped

MOUNTAINS BACK OF FAYAL

the carriage as we turned and said in English, "Will you not
come in and look at my place.'* I think you would like to see
oranges and lemons growing and maybe to take a photograph
of it." So we went in and he had a nice square house of stone
and plaster and with shutters and a big farm and a small
grove of oranges, lemons and bananas enclosed in a bamboo
hedge. He insisted upon cutting off great branches of each
and of roses and orange blossoms, so we drove back laden with
good things and very tired.

We had a very hard time getting on the ship, the boat

519

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

tossed up and down so far and we are tired and going to bed
early, as to-morrow we land at Ponta Delgada, where there
is to be a flower festival. Mr. Fowler sends greetings to you
and says he is sorry he could not land with us. Mrs. Vander-
bilt and her daughter went on shore and lunched at the Hotel,
altho some people preferred to come back to the ship. Good
night, I w^ill WTite again to-morrow night.

En route to Gibraltar
Monday, Feb. 26th, 1906.

Our day at Ponta Delgada was a great success although
it was so very rough that the officers said at first no women
would be allowed to land. Mr. Fowler was dead against it
as the waves came way up over the landing of the ladder and
the boats would go up and down ten feet. But Mr. Morgan
went off and then a lot of women and Laura begged to go, so
finally after I had seen the Misses Hallowell start we decided
to go. My heart was really in my mouth when I waited for
the boat to come up at the critical moment for jumping. I
obeyed the sailor and when he said go I went, sprawling into
the boat, then I turned to see Laura execute a flying leap.
When the sailor told her to go the boat went down suddenly,
but she jumped in a long jump and landed on a fat man who
caught her. I have never been in a small boat (20 ft.) in such
waves, but the boats ride the waves wonderfully and the only
danger was in getting off and on.

We felt quite lost without the Fowlers, as we had been

the last to land — every one was away, so we went into Cooks'

office to leave our wraps, but found the only man who spoke

English was gone, so I asked for the best hotel to lunch in

and the Portuguese at the Bank said across the street. Going

over we found the smells and filth made that impossible, so,

as I noticed two men nearby, who looked like gentlemen, I

asked them in French if they could tell me of a place where

we could lunch comfortably and they very politely directed

me to Hotel Bruno, up the hill, and got a man to conduct us

there.

520

EN ROUTE

I noticed six girls who have been with Miss Vanderbilt at
times and they were surrounded by a lot of tough-looking
people, so I went over to them and said I had learned of a
place to lunch and if they chose they could come with me, so
they did come and when we got up there we found the party
including Mr. Ward of New York, head of Cable Co., and a
Mr. Hosmer of Montreal, who had been brought off by a
young Englishman, cable manager at Ponta Delgada. We
waited on a balcony with a beautiful view of the shore and a
lovely garden with frisia growing in full bloom.

When the lunch was ready for these people they took
Laura and myself in and the other girls had a side table. Mr.
King of Baltimore was also of the party, a man Mr. Fowler
says brought up the Baltimore and Ohio R. R. when low
down. He was so polite and insisted upon getting a carriage
for me to go to the " Battle of Flowers." In this way we went
in procession with them, the young Englishman managing
everything and went into the Parade. There were many fine
vehicles, beautifully decorated. One in yellow and green had
the horse painted yellow. The elite of the place was out in
full force and many handsome men and women. From the
first moment we were pelted with flowers, calla lilies, camellias,
such as we pay a half dollar apiece for, bunches of frisia, acacia,
&c., till our carriage was full.

I forgot to say that one of those girls who turned out to
be Miss Fish, daughter of Hamilton Fish, came in our car-
riage, and she and Laura were wild with excitement and pelted
back with all their might. Mr. Alorgan was in an ordinary
carriage in the Parade. We went round and round a park
the size of an ordinary city block. People also threw flowers
from balconies on all sides. I was constantly hit on the head,
but it was great fun.

They didn't want to come away, but I thought an hour

was enough and wanted to follow Mr. King. When we came

to the landing Miss Fish said I want to pay a third of the

carriage and I said wait until later as I didn't know how much

it would be.

521

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

That evening Mr. Meyer of New York, a big blond man,
asked me to play "bridge." I think it was to please Mr.
Fowler as he and his wife have been playing with Senator and
Mrs. Ingalls. So he and I and Miss Ingalls played and I
came out ahead. A Mr. Thomson of Baltimore, who looks
like Pickwick, took his place at the other table. He said he
knew all about the Rosengartens and asked me if I were
Harry's wife. This Mr. Thomson has white hair and a bright
red face and a beaming countenance.

Last night the stars and groups of small stars were won-
derful. You could not imagine anything more impressive
than the great smoke stacks at night and the immensity of
this ship as one walks on the great upper deck at night. It
seems so strange not to have been any more seasick than when
on land. Of course I wish you were all here to enjoy it with
me. Commodore Smith of the N. Y. Yacht Club asked Laura
to go wdth them on a tour of inspection of kitchens, pantries,
&c., &c.

We land to-morrow in Gibraltar and must post these letters
to-night as a ship is leaving for New York, at once, so you will
get this as soon as possible. We are glad of a chance to get
on land for no matter how good a ship is the land is better.
Some people get off here to make a tour through Spain.
People tell me it would be necessary for women alone to have
a courier so I have given it up, but it is a great temptation.

Hoping you are all well and that nothing startling has hap-
pened since our departure, with much love for all of you, and
greetings to the girls.

Yours affectionately, M. D. R.

Mr. Fowler takes the best of care of us and I think my
companionship has meant something to Mrs. Fowler. We
shall miss each other as they will go to Cairo. He has a pass
on all the Egyptian railways and is going to Assouan by rail.
I have no doubt we shall fall in with some one on our way to

Sicily.

522

EN ROUTE

After Gibraltar, S. S. Celtic.
Ash Wednesday, Feb. 28th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

We arrived yesterday at Gibraltar and posted our letters
as a ship was just about to leave for New York.

We got off early and went first to the fortifications and
were conducted by a soldier as far as outsiders are allowed to
go, and had a fine view. The coloring was exquisite, water and
sky a deep blue and the mountains purple. Some went over
to Algeciras to lunch and see the room where the Commission
sits on the Morocco treaty. Mr. Morgan was lunched by
Andrew D. White but I didn't think it was worth while to go
over there on an uncertainty.

We drove all through the Alameda, or public park, and
the flowers were beautiful. The deciduous trees are only now
leafing out. We found we were near the home of Lewis
Neilson's cousins so stopped to call and found Mrs. Oman at
home. She seemed very glad to see us and showed us the
house and garden, which are perched on the steep hillside, the
garden in terraces higher than the house. They had a mag-
nificent Bougainvillea vine with stem about 8 inches thick.
The fig trees were only coming out and she told us they had
so many figs they gave them to any one who asked. They
had a magnificent view out over the water from house and
garden. She was the only one at home, her sister and daughter
having gone into the town. She invited us very cordially to
stay to lunch, but as we had promised to lunch at the Hotel
we declined and the ship sailing at 4 p. m. we could not go
for tea.

It being Shrove Tuesday, by afternoon the streets were full
of people in mask and every one was throwing paper confetti
and squirting rose water. No one missed us and we were well
peppered. The Arab market was very interesting, full of
Arabs and you can imagine Laura's delight. Mr. Thomson
from Baltimore bought her an orange basket filled with man-
darins and walnuts and dates. In the evening Mrs. Lathrop,

523

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

who is a sister of Thomas Nelson Page, showed us some lace
she had bought and I was sorry I had not got some doilies to
go with my Maltese centre piece, but it was too late.

I have wondered who Mrs. Lathrop was and she turned
out to be a person Mrs. Fowler was to be sure to meet. To-
night is the usual concert for the Seamen's Home. Laura has
been busy selling programs and has done well. Mr. Hollins
gave her £i for 4 programs. I have not dressed and may not
go down, but will give her money to put in the contribution
plate.

They got rid of many tons of freight at Gibraltar, meat
and sacks of grain and the ship is rolling more than it did,
also 47 people and their baggage were taken off. A gale was
blowing there which we did not feel in the town, but made a
very rough trip in the tender going and coming. We are very
tired of the ship, Mrs. F. and I, but Laura and most of the
men say they don't want to get off and would like to go on for
another two weeks.

We are meeting lots of ships now and we passed near the
Deutschland and communicated by wireless but did not see
her. To-morrow we will pack and get our fees ready. We have
decided to go to the Grand Hotel at Naples and I shall write
to the Palace Hotel, Rome, for prices.

Care has flown away and I find myself thinking of you all
without association with dates or engagements. I suppose
we cannot hope for a letter for a week or so. Every day I
wish you were along and am sure you would have enjoyed it
so far.

With much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

ITALY

Grand Hotel, Naples,
Friday, March 2nd, 6 P. M., 1906.

Dear Frank and All,

I suppose we are lucky to have a room at all, but you can
imagine disappointment on arriving at this Hotel at 5.30 to
be told we could not have a room before 8 p. M., and 17
francs at that. Naples is crowded now and we found it cloudy
when we got up this a. m., so that the view of the Bay was
not what I remember. Vesuvius was obscured by a heavy
cloud, but we hope for better things to-morrow.

Every one says there never was such an experience as our
landing today. It took 4>^ hours to get the luggage out from
the ship. It was raining most of the time and as we were not
thinking of rain we had packed our rain coats and rubbers
away and we had to go out in the rain to hunt our trunks,
which were dumped out on the stone dock. All the men were
so kind but I managed by myself, going through thousands of
pieces of baggage until ours were all found. We were terribly
tired of the ship and poor Mrs. Fowler looks with dread on the
approaching trip to Alexandria.

Even in the rain the streets were beautiful and filled with
flowers, the big stiif bouquets of camellias and violets I re-
member so well from my first visit. This hotel is superb, kept
by Germans and very expensive. We sat down in a glass-

525

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

roofed palm garden to have tea and I confess to being more
exhausted than I ever was in my Hfe. Laura almost went to
sleep sitting up, but the tea revived us and whom should I see
but Mrs. Coles, with her husband and daughter. They are
going to-night by steamer to Palermo. It may be their room
we are waiting for.

At the last moment Airs. Fowler met Mrs. Lathrop of
Chicago, whom she wanted to meet, — she is the sister of Thos.
Nelson Page, and I found that she and the McBirneys were
the party the Houghtelings were coming with. Also another
lady I have admired and had exchanged greetings with,
turns out to be Mrs. Stewart Brown of Pittsburgh, the people
Mrs. Wister told me to be sure to meet.

I shall go to Turner's to-morrow but can scarcely hope to
have letters. The Hambourg has not yet arrived. The
Biddies must be worn out, as their ship is not steady like the
Celtic. I must go to dinner and will finish this to-morrow. I
will try to write later.

Naples, Sunday, March 4th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

After all I did not get the letter off so will continue. The
first night I sat down to dinner next to the Admiral Jewells
and we had the nicest talk. They were here only for the night
and went to Rome in the early morning. Then at lunch Mr.
Stewart Brown of Pittsburgh, Mrs. Dr. Fox's brother,introduced
himself and while we were talking who should appear but Gen-
eral and Airs. Patterson of Albany, and the daughters. I went
over to speak to them and they were most cordial, said they
had come on the Hambourg with the Drexel Biddies who had
told them we were here and they were hoping to meet me.

We arranged to go to the Opera last night. Othello was

given and we got a box. When we returned we had a great

surprise in seeing a great stream of red lava on the side of

Vesuvius — they said it is 150 ft. wide; the effect is wonderful

and uncanny.

526

ITALY

After two days of warm rain we woke up this a. m. to
find it crystal clear and cold as Greenland, so at last Laura
has seen the beauties of the Bay of Naples. It was beautiful
beyond words, marred only by a very strong cold wind. We
went today to the Cathedral and after up to Hotel Bertolini
for lunch. To get to this Hotel you go through a long tunnel
and then go up in a Lift and there are terraces with tables
to sit out of doors to see the wonderful view. We now are
expecting to start on Tuesday, lunch at Pompeii and drive
from there to Sorrento to spend the night.

I am taking Cooks' tickets to save trouble and there is no
time limit, i. e., we can stay as long as we please in any one
place. The Hallowells have gone this eve by boat to Palermo.
I wouldn't have done it for a kingdom — the water is in a per-
fect fury.

We never want for attention. Gen. Patterson introduced
a Mr. Lard from Albany, who is also going to Sicily. We
have our steamer trunks ready to go to Paris by slow freight
and will leave our two large trunks here and take only small
luggage to Sicily. They ask ^40 a day for automobiles here
— it has become a very extravagant place, and the streets are
full of magnificent autos and women wear fine jewels, indicat-
ing plenty of money. With much love for you all, and always
wishing you were here, where you would have every comfort
and enjoy the society of lots of nice men.

Most affectionately, M. D. R.

Imperial Hotel, Sorrento,
Tues., March 6th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I wonder if you remembered that yesterday was our 33rd
wedding anniversary and missed me a little! I am in a con-
tinual state of disappointment that you are not with us.
Yesterday was the most perfect day imaginable. Blue sky
and sea and warm and the views showed up to perfection.

527

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

As I had to spend the morning at Cooks' getting my tickets
for Sicily, and doing a little shopping, I felt we must accom-
plish something in the afternoon, so I got a good comfortable
carriage at the Hotel and started for the Virgil side of Naples,
Pozzuoli, Cape Misense and Baias. When I was here three
years ago they told me the antique grotto at Posilipo was
closed, but we drove through it, turning to the left from the
new grotto and finding all my old memories revived. It is

GROTTO OF POSILIPO, NAPLES

much higher and narrower than the new one and very impres-
sive. Beyond it you see real Italian life, i. e., people living,
moving and having their being in the street, along with pigs,
donkeys and chickens.

We went up to Solfatara and saw the sand boiling and
the steam was pouring out of innumerable crevices. The
town of Pozzuoli, with its old port of Caligula, and its villas

of Cicero and Sallust, &c., &c., and interesting Roman remains,

528

ITALY

gateways, walls, &c., is delightful — such air, and the delicious
spring smell is in everything, wild sweet alyssum, yellow and
pink daisies, thyme and lots of sweet flowers. We drove on
to Baise and past the Lucrene Lake to Lake Avemus, with all
its legends and went into the grotto of the Cumsean Sybil,
which is now full of water, and the men carried us across on
their backs.

Part of the original frescoes and mosaics remain and there
are wonderfully large Roman bricks in the walls. We had not

SORRENTO

time to go to the hot baths of the Roman Emperors, where
the water is heated by the volcano, but took a drink of Fal-
ernian wine, which must have been better in Horace's time.
We sat awhile with Gen. Patterson and family, before going
to pack, and found they were also coming to Pompeii to-day.
I got to bed very late as I had to go through the ordeal of
packing some small pieces to take with us and leaving the
larger trunks at Naples and did not sleep well, so to-night I
am very tired and going to bed early.
34 529

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We started for the station this morning at what seemed a
long time before, and it is well we did, as our horse fell and we
had to wait while they unharnessed it and got him on his
feet. He was not properly shod and slipped all the time. We
were pursued by boys offering us enormous bunches of violets
and camellias for i franc, and finally got to the station late
and had an exciting time getting the baggage weighed and
put on the train.

The Pattersons did not come until a later train, but we
met at lunch. Laura went in to Pompeii with some people
we knew. A man in the party read the Latin inscriptions very
easily and made it thus more interesting. I did not go as I
have been twice and was very tired, but we started off in a
little carriage immediately after lunch for Sorrento and words
fail me to describe the beauty of this coast in the afternoon
lights of such a perfect day as this has'been.

I fortunately had telegraphed for rooms for the people
after us were turned away. We have an enormous room on
the sea side of the house, perched directly over the water at
the top of a high cliff. The pink lights on the snow mountains
and the blue of sky and water, you must imagine.

The Tarantella is now being danced down stairs and Laura
is seeing it, sitting w^ith the Stewart Browns of Pittsburgh.
If it is very smooth to-morrow I shall be tempted to go over to
Capri as it can be very disagreeable when rough and thus
it will not have to be missed in case the weather is not
propitious on our return from Sicily. The Pattersons go to
Rome on their return from P^estum.

I had a very nice letter from Mrs. Fowler; they did not
get into the Grand Hotel at Rome, but into the Excelsior.
She said she missed me all the time and was always expecting
to meet me. I certainly miss her very much. I think I must
spend a few days at Taormina to rest, as we led rather a
strenuous life at Naples.

530

ITALY

Amalfi, March 7th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I take this up at bedtime, having spent an hour playing
bridge with Gen. Patterson's wife and daughter and another
lady and then going out to see the view by full moon. I
finished writing last night at bedtime. We walked around the
town all morning and then started in a nice double carriage
for this place. I expected the drive to be beautiful, but it was
more than I imagined and to think that in addition to the
beauty man has done nothing to disfigure it, as in our country.

HOTEL DES CAPUCHINES, AMALFI

We have had absolutely perfect weather, so you can im-
agine the sunset lights on the w^onderful mountains and the
sea. It is impossible to describe it and no picture I have ever
seen can do justice to it. I have noticed the change in type
of features in the people since leaving Naples. They are
beginning to look like the Sicilians, darker and thinner and
paler than the Neapolitans, who are of a more robust type.

We found ourselves put out on the main street and we had
to climb up 270 steps. There were chairs, but I preferred to
climb, but it was pretty hard, only at every moment I had to

531

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

stop to look; everything white plaster and showing off the
greenery to the greatest advantage. When I got to the top
I found Gen. Patterson. His family had gone to Ravello for
the afternoon but got back at dinner time and we sat next to
them at dinner and on the other side a Mr. and Mrs. Van
Anden of New York, friends of theirs.

They go on to Sorrento and we take in Ravello as a sort
of side trip to La Cava and Psestum. The next two days
will be hard, as we have to take a midnight train from La Cava
to Messina after a hard trip to Paestum. We hope to spend
three days at least at Taormina — it seems necessary after a
few days of travel to rest.

La Cava, Friday, March 9th.
After our long trip from Amalfi by the way of Ravello I
was too tired to write last night, as we had to get up early to

RAVELLO

make the trip to Paestum. We preferred to do the two with-
out returning to Amalfi for lunch, which would have meant
climbing up those awful stairs again only for lunch, so we took
our luggage and climbed a high hill to Ravello for lunch.

532

ITALY

If ever there was a spot like heaven it is Ravello ! The view
was just as beautiful as Amalfi and we found a perfect Hotel,
Pension, where the food was perfection and where the most
perfect cleanliness prevailed. The dining and bed rooms
opened on a terrace garden where daffodils, frisia and
oranges and lemons were everywhere, and such a view.
I cannot imagine a more ideal place for tired nerves and
absolute comfort.

The object of this drive is to see the wonderful mosaic
pulpit with supporting columns resting on lions, also the pal-
ace of the Rufalo family, which has been built around an an-
cient Moorish palace and has a wonderful terrace and view
and gardens. I hope sometime to go there and stay awhile.
It is also the only reasonable place I have seen.

Taormina, Alarch ii, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I left La Cava night before last and posted a letter with-
out signing it, but I knew it would be two days before I could
write again. We are still without any letters from you and
hope each day to get some, as I telegraphed to Turner in
Naples to send any letters that he might have received to
Taormina.

I think I wrote you about Ravello and La Cava and meet-
ing the Pattersons at Amalfi and Van Andens from Brooklyn,
and our game of bridge at Amalfi. I felt rather alone when
we drove all the morning from Amalfi, but the next day we
took the early train from La Cava to Psestum. The first
people we met were a Mr. and Mrs. Brown from Worcester
and she was a Miss Hacker and stays with her aunt Mrs.
Charles Hacker, across the square from us. A/[r. Brown was
great fun and he and Laura cracked jokes and made fun
about "pastum" and "postum", so we had a delightful day.

It took us nearly three hours to get to Psestum, then we
walked through an ancient gate of the Siren and there were
the temples on the plain between mountains and sea, the

533

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

most complete, the temple of Neptune, is almost perfect, with
inner and outer rows of columns, Doric, the earliest Greek,
tapering very much to the top. They were once covered with
stucco and painted. I liked the smallest of all the best,
Temple of Ceres or Apollo, as it stood a little higher and one
front was very fine. The third was a basilica; the effect is
very fine as you see the blue sea from one side, as a back-
ground, and the mountains from the other. We had taken

AT P^STUM

our lunch from La Cava in white bags and had a picnic on
the altar of the Basilica and we all became very friendly.
The Browns came the next night from Naples to Palermo
and we took the night train from La Cava by Salerno to
Messina.

After six hours in train to Psestum you can imagine we
did not look forward with much eagerness to an all-night ride,
but I was determined not to go back to Naples to start. So
we went off alone with Cook tickets and in the dark, leaving
a very jolly crowd at the table d'hote. Much to our amuse-
ment we were the only passengers on the old fashioned Ameri-

534

ITALY

can sleeping car and had an Italian porter who spoke English
and gave us our coffee and tea in the morning before we got
to the boat.

I was rather alarmed at the situation, realizing that we
were completely at the mercy of the porter, but I put all my
valuables in the bed with me, so I would be disturbed by any
effort on his part to find them. I did not sleep much, but
looked out of the window, trying to see Calabria. Some one

HOTEL TIMEO, TAORMINA

said there was nothing to be seen, but I found splendid moun-
tain scenery, the railroad high above the coast.

At 8.30 we got out a little north of Reggio and went across
to Messina, a very pleasant ride of twenty minutes across the
straits. The Palermo car is put on the boat and goes right on
to Palermo. We asked the porter if the train usually goes
with so few. He said the nights the fast express leaves Naples
at 1 1 every one goes on that.

We preferred leaving La Cava at 8.33, rather than at one
in the morning. It was so warm we sat on the upper deck
without extra wraps, like an ordinary summer day at James-

535

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

town. The drive up to Taormlna from the railway was very
warm and we found people wearing linen dresses and straw
hats. At the Timeo hotel we had to take an unattractive
room to sleep in last night but to-day moved in to a room next
to it with two balconies looking out on the sea and Mt. ^tna.
I am saturated with the beauty, it is on all sides. This hotel
has gardens on three stories and terraces with columns, roses
in profusion, gilly flowers, mignonette, orange blossoms, acacia

SOLFATARA, NEAR NAPLES

and dozens of other flowers growling in great flaring earthen
pots along the edge of the terraces with orange trees and palms,
and we sit out without wraps and have to seek the shade, the
sun is so hot.

Mt. ^tna was wonderful this morning — there was a line
of light at the foot of the snow which gave it the effect of float-
ing in the air. I got up late this a. m. and spent the rest of
the morning moving.

At four o'clock I thought we would go to the Wood's
studio, w^here George and Susie spoke of going and to whom a

536

ITALY

number of people had told me to be sure to pay a visit. Mr.
Wood opened the door and I told him I had come on the
strength of mutual friends. He made us most welcome.
Louise Wood then introduced herself, so I felt quite at home.
A Miss Kimball sang delightfully, with a very cultivated
voice, and Admiral Bleecker did some stunts with a marion-
ette. We met a very handsome young Italian who reminded
me of Clifford.

The rooms were full of interesting things and flowers and
out of the side towards the sea a beautiful terrace of white

FROM THE GREEK THEATRE, TAORMINA

cement with seats all around it, and such a view! Yesterday
we went over to the Domenico convent hotel to see about
rooms, not being sure we would stay here and found and saw
the Coles. They thought the sleeping car trip down here
terrible — they came the night we arrived at Naples. I am
now torn by a desire to go up to Mola, which looks about a
mile up in the air from here; there is a village there, but it
doesn't look humanly possible to get there. Even a donkey
can go only two-thirds of the way.

I wish you could see us here and how perfectly beautiful
and comfortable it is and altho we see snow on ^tna, we are

537

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

warm as a fine September day, without a cold wind, and yet
the air is very invigorating. I felt as if we must have a rest
here after so much travel and so we will not leave for Syracuse
before Friday. I wanted to make a pension arrangement for
a week here, but they would not do it.

By this time you must have got our Azores letters and the
long wait is over, but we are still without news of you. I do
hope you are all well and my only regret is that you are not
with us.

With much love to all of you and to our intimate friends.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

Taormina, March nth, 1906.
Dear Uncle Frank,

Just a line or two to tell you we are getting along splen-
didly and only spending a few centesemi per day {?). This
is Auntie's 60th birthday but as I didn't know in time to give
her "twenty-one" slaps this morning, I feel it my duty to
tell some good jokes on her.

If you had stood with me in the grotto of the Cumsean
Sybil on one side of the River Styx and watched Aunt Mary
cross over to the other side on the back of a small skinny
Italian, you would have appreciated how perfectly ludicrous
it was, as the Italian gentlemen and I who stood on the banks
and watched did. It was killing. No one could thoroughly
realize how funny it was unless they had seen it, too, as writing
about it isn't at all easy.

It was dark in the cave except for a torch and all that could
be seen of Auntie was a pair of feet sticking straight out back,
but you could hear her more plainly. Now, of course, the man
on the banks got the same lovely view of me, but I don't tell
about that part.

I notice in Auntie's letter that she refers to valuables in
the sleeping car. Never shall I forget that experience. I had
just gotten out of my clothes and was settling down to sleep
when Auntie called to me in a hoarse whisper. I looked out

538

ITALY

and Auntie with her head enclosed by curtains said in the
most awe-inspiring tones, "Laura, where are your valuables?"
Scared, I turned purple! Her tone implied cutthroats,
brigands and murderers of all sorts.

Well, my words of wisdom have come to an end. This
doesn't sound a bit funny to read but Auntie and I have had
many a good laugh over these different things.

Sicily is ideal — there can't be anything more beautiful.
And this hotel is very good, too.

Give my love to Sam and Clifford and keep lots for yourself

Aff., Laura Clifford.

Grand Hotel Villa Politi,

Siracusa, March 17th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

We were so disappointed to leave Taormina without getting
any mail, a month to-day since we left and we have not had
one letter! We now hope they will meet us at Palermo.
Taormina proved delightful. We had a very comfortable
room with two balconies, on the sunny side and the food was
excellent. Miss Wood was very nice — entertained us at tea.
The Misses Trowbridge, who came over on the ship, and their
aunt, were very friendly and we played bridge one night. They
were only there two days and then came on here. We enjoyed
our rest of six days and came here yesterday, leaving at eleven
and arriving here at a little after two.

This hotel is quite a little distance out of the town and over
wonderful quarries, with beautiful flower gardens on top and
also way down inside where orange trees seem to have no
trouble in growing. We met such a funny woman in the train.
I thought she was English but she turned out to be an Ameri-
can, a Bostonian, who lives in Rome, an amusing character
named Miss Carey. We had our lunch together and the time
passed quickly.

No one we know is here and we go on to-morrow to Gir-
genti, where we shall be very uncomfortable but must see

539

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

the temples. We went yesterday to see the Greek Theatre,
Roman Amphitheatre and the church where St. Paul spent
three days on his way to Rome. The perfect weather still
continues, but the dust is very disagreeable. The almond
trees are in full leaf, the blossoms being over, and are of a
lovely tender green; the olive trees are images of distress, so
old and twisted are they.

On the way here near Aci Castello we saw the great lava
beds from Mt. ^tna, a most curious formation, and the Fara-

THE CATHEDRAL, SYRACUSE

glioni, the great rocks thrown by Polyphemus, a Cyclops,
after Hercules.

The little insects which frequent this part of the world are
giving Laura a great deal of trouble, and me a little, but that
little is too much.

This afternoon we drove out to Fort Euryalus, where the
Athenians were defeated in their attack on the Syracusans.
Clifford will remember it and the remains, the walls Diony-
sius built, but he did not see this hotel which is charming.
The dining room is new and all in white plaster with fine

540

ITALY

Corinthian columns, much more beautiful than the Bellevue-
Stratford room, and lovely flowers on the tables, music play-
ing outside in the garden, where I should think it was
rather cold.

I think I shall send a cable from Palermo, if I don't get
any letters there, because I left exact directions with Turner
how to send our mail. I am wondering if we will have a good
night to cross to Naples, they tell awful tales about the cross-
ing in moderately good weather even. I don't think I would
have courage to go on a bad night. We expect to be back in
Naples by the night of the 24th of March and will go the next
day to Rome. It seems a long time since I saw you all. With
much love and wishing for you all the time.

Your affectionate, M. D. R.

Grand Hotel Des Palmes, Palermo,

March 21st, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I did not write you from Girgenti as we stayed not quite
24 hours, finding the hotel very dirty, food bad and service
worse, although we were carried in a fine automobile from the
station to the hotel. We made the acquaintance of the people
who I supposed were the Boston Higginsons and we noticed
at Taormina. They felt like ourselves, that the dirt was un-
bearable and we all came on here in the 2 o'clock train arriving
at 7.30 in time for dinner.

We went out by nine o'clock that morning at Girgenti to
see the temples and were much more impressed by them than
those at Psestum. The present town of Girgenti, the old
Agrigentum of the Romans is w^here the Acropolis was and is
very high and looks as if it had grown there, so admirably does
it tone in with the grey of the mountains. Almost half way
down to the sea and on high plateaus are the temples, first of
Juno, with only a few columns standing, then Concordia,
almost complete, except that all decorations of stucco and
carving have disappeared with time. Then Jupiter, wrecked

541

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

by an earthquake and colossal. The great columns appeared
to me as large or larger than the largest Egyptian ones and
there were giant caryatides upholding the pediment all the
way around the inside, as large as the giant recumbent
Rameses.

It must have been something too wonderful for the modern
mind to comprehend. There are excursions to Segesta and
Salinuntum or some such name, where there are colossal

THE CATHEDRAL OF PALKRMii

ruins, but I imagine the dirt and discomfort would be
too great for us. We were glad to get into a comfortable
hotel again.

In the morning visited the cathedral and the royal palace,
where the wonderful Capella Palatina is, completely lined
with mosaic and a roof of Moorish carving. In the afternoon
we took a carriage for the whole afternoon to go to Monreale.
On the way out numerous automobiles passed us at frightful
speed, and at the bottom of the ascent to the monastery we
were informed that carriages could go no farther as there was

to be a trial race.

542

ITALY

We found the Higginsons with their lady friend and a Mr.
Cramer who crossed on the Celtic with us, in the same fix;
as the dust was frightful we decided to go on in the trolley,
which we did very comfortably and saw the church and clois-
ters at our ease. I suppose nothing exists elsewhere to be
compared to the mosaics of the church and the columns of
the cloisters.

On our way back we stopped at the Villa Tasca and saw
an ideal garden of very rare trees with a little temple having
a most beautiful view of the mountains back of the city. We
met the Spencer Biddies also at the cathedral, who are stay-
ing at the Villa Hygeia, about two miles out on the shore the
other side of the city. This hotel has a beautiful large garden
which keeps the rooms quiet and although it is a very noisy
city we hear none of it.

To-night we go on an Italian steamer to Naples and will
go at once across to Capri for over one night and then another
night in Naples and the next day to Rome, making us arrive
in Rome March 24th. Not a line have we had and our dis-
appointment was great, for we cannot understand what it
means. Perhaps now we will find something in Naples at
Turner's. We must get off, so I will finish this in Capri.

Capri, Thurs. eve., March 22, 1906.
Here we are in Capri and very tired. We got on a boat of
the Italian line at 7.33, for Naples, having partaken of an
early dinner and had a talk with Mr. Higginson and Mr.
Cramer. Fortunately the weather was quiet and it had tried
to rain but there was a good deal of motion soon after we
started and we feared we were going to be ill, so went quickly
to tea. I had had to pay 17 frcs. extra to keep the stateroom
to ourselves as there was a third berth. We prevented dis-
agreeable consequences by retiring early and had a very com-
fortable night and were dressed at seven when the boat landed.
A man called out Capri and I said yes and in a minute our

543

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

luggage was in a small boat and in five more we were on the
Capri boat which we were told would go at 8, but it went over
to St. Lucia and filled up and left at 9.

We stopped at Sorrento and a lot of people came on and
then to Capri. The weather was not perfectly clear but still
very beautiful, and we were glad to get into this clean beauti-
ful Hotel Luisisana. We had to wait until after lunch for a

CAPRI

room and we were very tired. There has been a furious east
wind all day and we felt it colder than Sicily, but we went for
a little walk. After we got into our room and had our things
put in, we drove up to Anacapri and called on Mrs. Bodine,
and I have no words to tell you about the villa where she lives.
A doctor owns it and has built it on old Roman foundation
walls. Then there was an old church, which he turned into a
sort of tea and smoking room, and has the choir stalls.
The garden and the pergola and the corridors of white with
openings marked by twisted columns which he had found right
in the ground, and Amphorae, pieces of marbles out of which
he made floors.

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ITALY

Nothing I can say can give you any idea of the wonderful
beauty of this villa and garden and the views. This man also
owns the Barbarossa castle, some distance above it and an old
Roman tower. He has built into the walls bits of carving
and inscriptions. The furniture is perfect and you would
think it impossible to be comfortable in a house all white tiles
and white marble, but a few stoves seemed to furnish all
necessary heat. Mrs. B. offered us tea and her young son and

AT CAPRI

daughter came in. The son just Laura's age and the daughter
older.

We arranged to drive up in the morning and climb up to
Barbarossa castle, but I think I shall back out and rest here.
We had the young people to lunch and although it was blow-
ing hard came away in the afternoon boat. I was dreadfully
ill and went right to bed. We go on to Rome tomorrow after-
noon. With much love for all of you and still hoping to get
letters (to-day 23 rd).

Your aff., M. D. R.

35 545

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Savoy Hotel, Rome,
Sunday, March 25th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

Here we are in Rome, but not settled. I posted my last
letter on our arrival at Naples. I have not yet got over that
dreadful trip from Capri, day before yesterday. I thought I
should die but Laura was not sick at all. Fortunately there
were nice people on deck, she could stay with them. I was
obliged to retire in disgrace. Glad indeed was I to get into a
comfortable room and bed for I was wet to the skin where
the water had burst through a partly open window in the cabin,
all over me. A good night's rest enabled me to go out yester-
day morning to the Bankers.

There we found Clifford's and Fanny's letters, the others
having been sent to Palermo to care of Cook, but as Cook had
no office in Palermo I did not get them and have now written
to the Post Office there to send them here. We had a weary
ride from Naples here, going to the station an hour before the
train was to start and having a perfect fight to get a seat in a
first-class carriage.

When we arrived at Rome at 9 p. m. there was no omnibus
of the Palace Hotel, which I had written and telegraphed to,
and when I got there in a carriage they said they hadn't a
vacant room, but would get one in the next hotel. We had a
good supper there and came up to this hotel until Tuesday,
when we can have a room and bath at 20 frcs. a day. The room
we have here is on the 6th floor and the elevator will only take
passengers up and not down and we have to walk down every
time and also there is a noisy trolley in front.

I went over to the Palace this morning to make sure of a
room and saw the one we can have Tuesday. Rome is per-
fectly full, 500 hotels and pensions jammed and it is almost
impossible to get shelter. After we said good-bye to the
Warrens we took a cab and went to the Pantheon, Ara Coeli
and the Capitol. In between it hailed and rained and sun
shone, but it is distinctly cold. We went to the Excelsior to

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ITALY

5 o'clock tea as Mrs. W. said it was the thing to do and I had
to warm up. It was a great sight. An enormous room filled
with small tables set out with flowers, lovely china and cakes
of all kinds, and fine music and people very much dressed.

Rome, March 26th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

We found a letter from you to-day at Lebasti's the first
one. We went about in that neighborhood for awhile and
after lunch went to the Borghese gallery and the garden.
After, I went to call at the Edwards' and sent in the letter —
only he was at home, Mrs. E. and daughter being out. The
entrance is through a garden and the parlor was a very hand-
some room with beautiful furniture but not palatial.

Now as to the going home I have special reasons for not
going home on the Celtic, which you will appreciate when I
tell you. I cannot think you mean for me to come so soon as
May 4th, for it means giving up Paris and London. I expected
to leave here April 4th and it will take at least 10 days to
make any kind of a trip through the Hill cities to Florence,
then a week there and on to Venice, 17 days and it will take
some days to get to Paris.

We are still here as the Palace Hotel now says they will
take us in Wednesday. Rome is discouraging. It is impos-
sible to get any idea of it in one visit. Hoping you are all well
and you will be generous and not insist on my coming so soon.

Aflfectionately yours, M. D. R.

Palace Hotel,
Rome, April ist, 1906.
Dear Frank and Boys,

It is so very cold here just now it is hard to think it can be
April 1st. After summer weather in Sicily we have struck a
cold wave which is pervading all Europe and we find riding
about in the little open carriages cold work and think we are

547

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

fortunate to be in this comfortable hotel where we have steam
heat in our room.

We are delighted to get a batch of letters from the three
of you. Yours were of a more cheerful tone than the first
ones.

I think I posted my last letter on Tuesday last, while at
the Savoy. That night the Browns from Worcester (she was
Miss Hacker) and we spent the evening together very agree-
ably. Wednesday morning we went to the Rag Fair in the

CAMPO DI FIORI," RO.MI-:

"Campo di Fiori" and found the sun very hot, went to a lec-
ture by Prof. Reynault at the Palatine Hill, where we tramped
around with him for two hours, learning much more than
would have been possible any other way, and having fine
views of the seven hills.

We arranged to go the next day to St. Paul's out on the
Appian and Ostensian ways, to spend the day, but unfortu-
nately it rained and it was called off. It gave us an early
start and we took advantage of it to spend a long morning at
the Vatican. It is quite wonderful what we have seen in a

548

ITALY

week, and as Laura did not seem to get too tired we have
kept right on and have seen all the great galleries and some of
the Palaces and all the ruins, except outside.

I fear we cannot go to Tivoli if we leave on Thursday, but
unless this cold spell comes to an end it would not be wise to
go. Yesterday morning we went to the Colonna, Corsini and
Rospigliosi Palaces, lunched at the Tea rooms in Piazza di
Spagni, did a little shopping and came back here in time to
dress and go to the Edwards' Tea, which they left a card for.

FOUNTAIN OF TREVI, ROME

Laura met a Miss Conrad from Washington and then we went
to the table and had a cup of chocolate. I was glad to see
how they entertain here.

We see a great deal of the Jewells and last night went to
the Coliseum together to see it illuminated with Bengal lights,
and found it a very impressive sight and there was a very
fine band playing. I would rather see it however by the full
moon.

The Jewells have invited us to go with them to tea at the
Excelsior and we will go. It is quite a function — one sees

549

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

everybody. Mr. Lanciani wrote a very nice note saying his
Father and A'lother were in Naples and would be sorry to
miss us. The Jewells leave here Thursday for Naples and sail
home a week from Friday. Laura seems to be in fine condi-
tion and enjoys the food so much and sleeps well.

Of course while we have worked hard in the day times we
have had no excitement at night, spending our evenings
quietly in the Hotel. Rome is much changed even since three
years. They have made a tunnel under the Quirinal to avoid
a long detour, and it is lined with shining white tiles. The
ruins are not as picturesque as formerly, as they are propping
them up with new masonry and picking out ferns and growth
of any kind. They are now going to pull down a convent on
top of the Palatine and some beautiful trees, to dig out the
palace of Augustus.

We have not seen any of the Royal family — they say the
young king and queen are not popular because they behave
too well and do not cause any scandal — they are bourgeois.
They went to see Buffalo Bill and got so excited they stood up
and screamed at one part of the performance. We were sorry
we did not know of a gala performance at the Opera, with
king and queen present, last Tuesday night.

The streets are full of splendid autos, all with limousine
bodies. I am envious all the time.

I am writing to a hotel in Florence recommended by the
Jewells, and where the Caseys are staying — Anglo-American.
People think we were very smart to get in here.

I have not got Countess Adelmann's letter — had planned
to go by Munich via Botzen and Innsbruck from Venice, but
shall wait to get your letters at Florence or Venice in answer
to my question before.

I must post this to-night. My best love to all of you and
hoping you are all well and will write often.

Affly., M. D. R.

550

ITALY

Palace Hotel, Rome,

April 3rd, 1906.
Dear Frank,

Your 8th and 9th letters came yesterday and we found them
on our return from a hard day's sightseeing. We spent the
morning at St. Peter's going around it carefully from end to
end and into the Sacristy, where we saw wonderful embroid-
eries and all the silver gilt candlesticks, &c., wrought by
Benvenuto Cellini and used only on high holidays, also the
fragments of Malazzo di Fiorli's frescoes from the ancient
basilica underneath.

In the afternoon we started out again and went to the
Coliseum, roaming through the great arches at the back where

THE .Ai-Pi-AN WAY, RU-ME

one gets a more adequate idea of its size than from the centre,
then to the Baths of Titus and the golden house of Nero, the
former on top of the latter, and then to San Clement's which is
considered to give one the best idea of the early Christian
church. I thought it just like a Jewish synagogue, with a
marble fence around a middle place with beautiful pierced
places (screens) in marble and lots of old mosaic. The read-
ing desks were of plain marble supported by columns and as
Jewish as possible.

551

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We then bought a few more photographs and I got you
some gloves and then we came home. To-day we made the
excursion called "a day with St. Paul," which means you go
out on the Appian way, &c., with a Prof, who lectures, A
landau came for us at ten and we have just got home at five.
We began with the English cemetery, which is very much
changed since I saw it before, the ilexes have grown tremen-
dously and there are some beautiful monuments, that of Story
to his wife, his last work. Next came the tomb of Caius
Cestius like the Pyramids but smaller, and the Aurelian wall,
then a long drive to the Basilica of St. Paul, which it will
take still 20 more years to finish. They are now working on
the front, adding a court and porch like the old basilicas. It
is a gorgeous building with five aisles, 4 rows of pillars and the
whole lined with precious marbles from all parts of the world.
There are altars of Malachites mounted in ormulu and the
canopy over the tomb of St. Paul has columns with bases of
lapis lazuli and portraits in mosaic of all the Popes.

The archaeologists all agree that there is no doubt about
Paul's presence in Rome and his death and burial here, but
they say there is absolutely no evidence of Peter ever having
been in Rome.

We went afterwards through a part of the catacombs of
Domitilla, which are the most interesting of all and have not
been tampered with. We saw long passages of tombs that
have never yet been opened and all date from the first to the
fifth centuries. The frescoes in the little chapels are quite
fresh. We ate lunch, which we took with us, at the entrance
of the catacombs, then drove out the Appian way to the 5th
milestone having a wonderful view of the Alban Hills and the
Sabine Mts., the latter covered with snow and very cold.

I was glad Laura could get such a view with the aque-
ducts in the foreground. Turning we came back by many
tombs and columbraria and the tomb of Cecilia Metella and
the Circus Maxentius, through the San Sebastian gate and
the baths of Caracalla, &c. A church called San Sebastian has

552

ITALY

a very fine reclining marble statue of him with the arrows
sticking in his flesh and is said to look like the saint when
they found his body in the catacombs.

Prof. Tani said he was present when they found the body
of a rabbi in the Jewish catacomb. He said it was in a perfect
state of preservation with long flowing beard and magnificent
vestments and fingers covered with rings. The next day
some of them went out to take notes and to examine more
carefully and there was nothing but a few ashes, some larger
bones and the rings and ornaments. That is why there is so
little to carry away from the catacombs.

We have planned to leave Thursday morning for Viterbo.
Cook could give me no help in planning a trip and told me
to buy my tickets from place to place, so I am going off in
the dark. The proper way to make this trip is in an
automobile, as the distances are short and it would be
possible to visit two places in a day, arriving at a third for
the night.

I forgot to say that when the landau came for us an Eng-
lishman and his wife were in it and they proved to be very
agreeable companions, altho we did not learn who they were.
We are going to-night to hear "Rheingold, I'oro di Reno,"
its first presentation here, and to-morrow we pack in the
morning and will go out in the afternoon.

Rome, April 5th.
Dear Frank,

I expected to have been in Orvieto to-night but I felt on
Tuesday night that I was not in a condition to go to such a
place. I made up my mind to go through a cure yesterday
instead and leave Saturday, thereby losing two days from the
Hill towns.

Mrs. Jewell came in last eve. to say good bye, as they left
for Naples this a. m. and said the Admiral thought I did not
realize what discomfort I might have in trying to go to the
smaller places by train. I feared I might have one of my

553

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

sharp attacks in some small place where I could not get a
Doctor, so I will now start off feeling a little safer.

We enjoyed our night at the Opera. The audience was
very enthusiastic and the Theatre very large and imposing.
Many officers in full uniform and the boxes full of well dressed
people, made a fine sight. The Rheingold was magnificently
staged, but it was too funny in Italian. They sang it in per-
fect time all the way through, which is very different from the
German way we are used to. The Loki or Loge was the only
one who had an adequate idea of his part and he really acted
and sang delightfully, but the German Opera is evidently the
thing here, although it was presented for the first time. I
saw very fine jewels and magnificent Opera wraps, carriages
with men in strange liveries, very ornate.

This afternoon Laura went over to the Savoy immediately
after lunch to see what the Browns were going to do, and they
took her with them to San Lorenzo outside the walls, where
Pius 9th is buried and to some other churches. They went
entirely in trolleys.

While she was out I got up to do some packing and I had
a great surprise when Dorothy Joline walked in. She is look-
ing very well. I am sorry not to have known before so we
could have gone about together. She is en route to Naples.
To-morrow morning I finish packing and send my trunks to
Florence during the day and we leave at ten the next morning,
arriving at Viterbo, an old Etruscan town, and have lunch
and stay all afternoon, leaving at 7 for Orvieto, reaching there
10.30. I have engaged a room at the small hotel Anglo-
American in Florence for the 15th. The Jewells recommended
it and the Caseys are staying there.

It does not seem as if we could give up Paris and London.
I have not yet got Countess Adelmann's letter, but will write
her from Florence that we wdll have to go straight through
from Venice to Innsbruck and Paris, without seeing them.
Laura may never get over here again and I may not either and
the crossing the ocean is a serious thing, so that when we are

554

ITALY

here we ought to carry out our plan. I will see what can be
done in Florence. I know I have duties and I came away
purposely to get rid of them for three months.

My love to all. I shall expect to hear from you about our
return. With much love.

Affly, M. D. R.

Orvleto, April 8th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I hardly know how to begin, there is so much to tell.
Yesterday morning we got up early and went to the Station
armed with all the necessary information about getting to
Viterbo and Orvieto. At the station they told us the train
did not start until a half hour later than we expected. After
a long wait the ticket office opened and they informed me that
I couldn't get tickets there, that I must go clear across the
city to Trastevere. You can imagine my anger and disgust.
Fortunately the porter who accompanies the omnibus felt he
ought to see us through and drove us over in the omnibus to
the station at Trastevere, where we found we had missed the
first train but fortunately there was another. I had feared my
trip was spoiled, but it only made us late for lunch at Viterbo.

What a beautiful ride we had across the Campagna, with
the snow Mts. in the distance! Climbing up the Cimian hills
we found we had left the South behind. There were more
deciduous trees and no more oranges, lemons and pines. The
grass was full of beautiful flowers of every color, white, pink
and yellow, and the views most beautiful. As we came to
Bracciano I could hardly make up my mind to pass by on
account of the great castle of the Orsini covering the top of
the hill, a mighty fortress looking down on the Lake of Brac-
ciano, but on account of the limited time I am obliged to
scurry through these wonderful places and only hope some-
time I can go through here in an automobile.

The next stop was Caprainca, near which is a less ancient
castle of the Colonna, at Capraola. We crossed the range of

555

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

hills and then came down on the great Etrurian plain on which
is Viterbo, still five or six hundred feet above the sea. We
got out at the Porta Romana and were instantly impressed
with the immense age of everything. Drove to the Grand
Hotel and had lunch and found the padrone a most intelli-
gent man, well informed about the antiquities of Viterbo. He
told the coachman where to take us and we saw most interest-
ing things before driving out to the Villa Lante at Bagnaja.

VITERBO

The Municipio had a beautiful court on a high bluff over-
looking the ancient walls and surrounding country, it was
lined with Etruscan sarcophagi, where the statue of the person
lies on the side with head raised wearing a turban and hold
ing a saucer in the hand. It gives one a peculiar feeling to
see all these people gazing at one in such a sidewise manner.
We then went to the ancient palace of the Popes, quite a
ruin with a wide flight of steps and beautiful windows with
pointed arches and twisted columns and at the side the un-
roofed room where Pope John 22nd was killed by the ceiling

falling on him.

556

ITALY

On the other side of the little piazza were ruined palaces
with beautiful architectural details now crumbling away and
abodes of the poorest. We drove through the Santa Pelle-
grina quarter, which must have been occupied by the very
rich centuries ago, so massive, built of great stones without
mortar, magnificent doorways and outside staircases, now it
seems to be given up to the poor and dirty and the smells
were indescribable.

A drive of half an hour brought us to a bridge over a great
ravine and mediaeval round towers forming the angle of the
town wall reaching way down into the valley, and there, as
everywhere, the background of blue hills and such a blue I
have never seen before, only in the pictures of Perugino and
the painters of his time. As we came out of the hotel at our
right was the old town wall and a gate with three arches, the
middle one higher than the sides and through that gate the
blue hills and pink sky.

Between six and seven when we went to the station the
effect was exactly what I have seen in the mediaeval fres-
coes. They painted what they saw. The Villa Lante is
located on the slope of the hills back of Bagnaja and the prin-
cipal street of the town, which is filthy, but full of beautiful
fountains leads up to the main entrance. There were great
sweeps of park back of the twin houses which constitute the
villa, with most gorgeous trees, sycamores, and a tree I do
not know but seems like a cross between a beech and an oak.
A beautiful parasol pine hung over one corner and wonderful
fountains with very ancient looking balustrades and statues
and basins or troughs, flow down the centre from far back to
the very gate, near which a fountain of four figures life-size
bronze held up the Delle Rovere coat of arms. We saw one
of the family crossing the Park and I have since learned it
was Miss Allen of St. Louis, who married the Duke di Lante,
but I had forgotten about it.

We came back to the hotel and had tea and saw two Eng-
lish women who seemed the only foreigners there, though the

557

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

proprietor said there had been five American automobiles
there at lunch time. We did not meet them so they must
have gone on.

The train leaving Viterbo at 7.15 got us here (Orvieto) at
10 o'clock at night, making one change and the Porter of this
Hotel was waiting for us and we got into a Funicular Railway

CITY GATE, ORVIETO

with our bags. The omnibus was waiting at the top and
brought us quickly here. The room we were shown into was
like an ice house and we had a great time getting a fire and
having the beds warmed. The man brought in the most
remarkable wooden frames into which they put earthenware
dishes full of live coals and put the whole apparatus into the
bed. Anyway the beds were clean and we slept well and this
morning the sun was bright and warm. After breakfast I

558

ITALY

went at once to the Cathedral and found it had not been over-
estimated. In the first place the location is so wonderful, on
the highest part of this already tremendously high town, out-
lined against the mountains with the valley of the Paglia
between. The whole front is of white marble and gold mosaic,
the glitter of which almost blinds one in the sunlight. One
would never tire of looking at it but I cannot give a detailed
description of it, so lace-like is the carving.

THE CATHEDRAL AT ORVIETO

I went inside and found a service going on with a bishop
seated on a throne and excellent music, Gregorian, I think,
but I could not stay long as I wanted to see the celebrated
frescoes in the side chapel of Luca Signorelli. I sat down
with an English lady and enjoyed them thoroughly; a young
priest pointed out many interesting details and showed us the
miraculous madonnas which we had to climb up behind the
altar to see. It proved to be an ancient Byzantine picture of
madonna and child, each with gold crowns and not often
shown. This priest seemed to enjoy all the wonderful small

559

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

details of these frescoes and showed me some water color
copies he had made of some of the medallions. I got one, as I
thought them beautiful and was glad to have such an interest-
ing remembrance of these Signorelli frescoes.

He, the priest, said he had sold some in London and that
Canova had come here to study them for his own work.
This afternoon we took a carriage and drove to the Forte-
rezzo, a part of the walls with great towers. I don't know
how to give you an impression of the height of this place; it
is fearful to look down over the parapets, there is a lovely
garden now in the midst of this fortress where one gets the
finest views.

Further on was the well of San Patrizio, built by one of
the Popes to provide water in time of siege, 6i and over
metres deep and two staircases wind around it. Donkeys go
up and down with water barrels and it is terribly cold and
dark. The water they say is excellent.

The next sight was the Etruscan Necropolis, further on
and down outside and under the city walls. A girl showed us
the tombs and told us how her father had discovered them
when he dug a trench to plant some trees. Then the govern-
ment has excavated three streets of them. They are of large
blocks of brown tufa set without cement and were square on
top outside but pointed inside like the cyclopean arches.
There were round ornamental stones on top and some of the
entrances had three doors of solid stone. There are stone
benches on two sides and on these they found bones and pot-
tery and metal implements, as they were fitted out for travel-
ling into the unknown world. The bodies were laid on their
sides. I think them among the most impressive things I have
ever seen, — 25 centuries since they were sealed up and no one
can read the inscriptions cut in the stone of the lintel. Schol-
ars come all the time to look at them. I am sending you a
postal card with them on which gives you an idea.

When we came back to the house it was still early and we

decided to walk up to the cathedral to see the sunset light on

560

ITALY

the fagade. Going inside we listened to the Vesper service
and a sermon in good ItaHan. As the sunHght faded the
candle light threw strange shadows in the church, and the
choir being filled with priests and acolytes the effect was very
impressive. Those things you must see to realize. We think
of going out to see the eff"ect of the full moon on it now.

I forgot to tell you about the delicious wines we are having
in this locality. They are celebrated, particularly that of
Montefiascone,, which we saw perched on a very high hill beyond
the Etrurian plain, as we came on from Viterbo last night.
It is called Est, Est, Est, because an old Bishop Fugger, who
was very fond of wine, when he was travelling through this
country was preceded by a valet who when he liked the wine
would write on the wall Est, and the bishop only stopped
where he saw the wine. When the valet came to Montefias-
cone he found the wine so good he wrote Est, Est, Est, and
the bishop drank so much he died that night. I like the wine
so much I would also like to drink as much as I please, but
must refrain. It is always drunk fresh and they say the Est,
Est, Est should never be taken down from its hill.

We leave here to-morrow for Spoleto and Foligno, going
back as far as Orte to connect with that R. R. Viterbo was a
more beautiful city than Orvieto but Orvieto is more wonder-
fully located.

I am so dead tired I must stop. We hope Laura's pictures
will turn out well, so you will then 'see what we have seen.

With much love for you all and looking forward to letters
in Florence. Your aff., M. D. R.

Spoleto, April 9th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

Such a day as we have had. We left Orvieto this morning
by the Funicular and heard the news of the eruption of Vesu-
vius on our way down. It is most startling. I only hope the
Jewells have got through all right. The papers say there
were three earthquakes in Naples night before last and the
36 561

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

observatory on Vesuvius and the railroad also gone and one
town of 10,000 people entirely destroyed. What dreadful
tragedies! Yet I would have liked to be there. I felt when in
Naples that Vesuvius was strange, with white snow all over
the top and the red streaks of lava flowing down.

SPOLETO

We got out at Orte and had time to get a very bad lunch,

then took the train coming from Rome and went to Spoleto.

Two Americans were in the carriage and we became quite

well acquainted.

562

ITALY

Strange to say I did not know the name of the Hotel here
but the description in "Hill Towns" enabled me to get there,
viz, an ancient palace and the entrance under a garden. We
found two English women here and have had great fun w^ith
them at dinner being joined by a German man. One officer
was in the room and he went into fits of laughter. The waiter
came up to us with a great air and tried to tell us that Laura's
hot water bottle was leaking and did we want "a priest" to
warm the beds. We couldn't understand a word so the whole
room tried to explain and finally we discovered the things I

SPELLO

have described, that they put into the beds to warm them are
called "pretre."

We took a carriage and drove all about and to the churches
outside, one of them being a perfect Roman temple preserved
by being built up as a church. The views were too beautiful
as we drove out of the town on different sides and I wish you
could be here to see for yourself. The hotel had been the
palace of a cardinal and had enormous rooms, but without
fires, so we were not too comfortable. But oh how I have en-

563

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

joyed the mediaeval buildings, Etruscan and Roman walls
and the narrow dark streets and gardens on tops of walls!

In the Municipio of Spoleto we saw some fine old paint-
ings [by Lo Spagna and in the cellar the floors of a whole
Roman house of which the walls are gone, beautiful complete
mosaic floors, better than any in Rome. Another interesting
thing was the Pelasgic foundations of a part of the city walls,

FOLIGNO

a beautiful bridge crosses the Paglia on many arches and at
one end outside of the city gate was a flat quay. The driver
told us to see a Roman bridge underneath. One of the guards
at the gate then lifted an iron trap door on the piazza and we
descended a long stone staircase and he turned on electric
light and there were the great arches of a Roman bridge,
entirely below the upper street.

We liked our driver and horse so much that we yielded to
his demand that we drive with him the next day to Assisi in-
stead of taking the train. So we arranged to stop at Foligno
and Spello on the way and were up and off the next morning
at eight o'clock and off in the lovely early lights finding the

564

ITALY

weather perfect. The little horse got over the ground wonder-
fully and after one stop at a little Roman temple near a foun-
tain called Clitumnus we drove up to the Hotel Poste and had
something to eat, it being eleven when we finished.

I wrote to Countess Adelmann and hope to get a letter at
Florence. With much love to you all,

Your aff., M. D. R.

Perugia, April 12th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

We have finally decided to give up Cortona, as it would

mean spending the night there and we feel time is getting so

ROMAN TEMPLE. PERUGIA

short we must get to Siena to-morrow night. We look forward
to spending Easter there where we will be able to hear a fine
service.

565

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

This afternoon after posting our letters home we went out
in a carriage to San Pietro, quite a distance away, where
all the pictures and choir stalls of Raphael remain in place,
except the greatest of all, the Assumption by Perugino, which
Napoleon carried away with him.

Siena, April 14th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

Yesterday we spent en route, arriving here at ten o'clock
almost an hour late. I hated to leave beautiful Perugia on such
a perfect morning but all good things must come to an end.

Our first change of cars was at Terontola. I noticed an
attractive German American lady getting into the Florentine
train with her maid but after the train had left was surprised
to see her husband wandering around the Station as if looking
for some one. At first I thought that he must be going else-
where and thought no more about it, but as he seemed to still
be hunting I asked him if he was looking for the lady that was
with him in the train and he said yes. I said I saw her go
away on that last train. He clapped his hands to his head
and said My God this is terrible!

He fairly shook with excitement and mopped his head and
didn't seem to know what to do, so I told him he had better
telegraph but he couldn't speak a word of Italian. I said I
will tell the Capo Stazione and then came the task of finding
a place to which he was going with his Milan tickets, where
he could send her word to get off". I had a hard time to get
him to understand but finally he telegraphed to Arezzo to the
officials there to put the lady off at Arezzo and I hope found
her soon after.

We had heard her call him Ludwig and he looked like
Admiral Selfridge; he was very grateful to me. Laura has
had lots of fun over Ludwig and the meeting at Arezzo.

Our train came along and we went to Chiusi in a half hour.

Then came the excitement of finding out when the train for

Siena would come along, and if there was a late one which

566

ITALY

would enable us to spend some hours at Chiusi, which was
high up on Its hill. Fortunately there was no hurry as the
first train was not due for an hour or so and we had a very
comfortable lunch and decided to wait over for the 6 p. ai.
train. We took a little carriage and were soon climbing up
the usual long hill, zig-zag fashion, and saw an Interesting
Etruscan museum and then went off Into the country to see
some Etruscan tombs, not like those we saw at Orvleto — but
with flat roofs with curious arrangement of stones like a log
cabin quilt, and with frescoes of red figures on white back-
ground, and In perfect preservation, subject athletic games,
chariot races, &c., &c.

It then began to rain heavily and we went over a terrible
road on the edge of precipices so I was thankful when it was
over and we were back at the station, where we packed a
good lunch of wine and bread, cakes and oranges. In a six-cent
basket to take with us on the train, being the only food we
would get. The air was so sweet with all the fresh green
smells and the grass full of little English daisies and violets
that it was delightful to drive along looking at constantly
changing views of the mountains.

We passed Trevi, on top of its cone-shaped grey and for-
bidding hill. The wonder is that people were ever able to
exist on such heights. From Foligno It was only three miles
to Spello and when we got there the driver told us it was too
steep for a carriage and so we started on foot through the
unchanged Roman gate, with the statues still on the front and
went up steep perfectly paved stone streets to two churches,
where we saw pictures by PInturicchio and a beautiful Renais-
sance facade. A Madonna by Lo Spagna was In a side chapel.
The pictures by PInturicchio are his finest works and line the
sides of a chapel In Santa Maria Magglore. I think I shall
never forget the Christ In the Temple among the Doctors.

After seeing these Laura gave out and I went on alone
through another Roman arch up to the very top, through
dark narrow arched streets, till I came out on a little Piazza

567

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

with a view of the whole Umbrian plain and Assisi in the dis-
tance and even Perugia and Spoleto far to the south.

I forgot one of the sights of Spoleto, viz, the Porta della
Fuga, where Hannibal was put to flight by the Spoletoans.

1 keep thinking back of the beauty of Spoleto. Soon we were
approaching Assisi far up on the mountain at the right with
the long row of arches supporting what was the Franciscan
convent, but now a boys' school. Instead of turning up to-
wards it we went to the left where the great church (with
dome almost like St. Peter's) of "degli Angeli," looms up in
the plain. This is the church built over the little house
'Porginneula" where St. Francis started his life with a few-
companions and worked a great reform which brought Chris-
tianity into the lives of the people when it had become a
meaningless myth with them, consisting of church pageants
entirely in the hands of the priests.

Entering we saw the little stone house which they have
covered over with a sort of chapel with a fresco by Overbeck
in the middle of the great church. At one side we saw the
little garden of thornless roses which never grow higher than

2 ft. and bloom in May. They had just leafed out. I have
brought some leaves for Annie and the others, picked from
these plants. Finally we turned towards Assisi, which looked
so far away up the Alountain and finally got there about 2

p. M.

How our little horse had been able to go all that distance
without showing any traces of fatigue I cannot understand.
We had not yet got over the fatigue of climbing Spello and now
we had Assisi to do, beginning with the great church of San
Francesco, first the lower church with great low arches cov-
ered with the great works of Giotto and Cimabue. Such
wealth of great art can scarcely be digested, it is so over-
whelming, such delicious coloring and wonderful religious
sentiment.

Down below this lower church is the crypt, where St.
Francis lies in a stone coffin in a shrine, and then there is the

568

ITALY

upper church high up above and opening on another Piazza,
for Assisi is all up and down. To me it all resolves itself into
the lower church with its wide heavy and low arches and
wonderful frescoes.

In the meantime as we found we would have to leave at
4.50 by train for Perugia or stay over night at Assisi, we
decided to drive on to Perugia at 5 p. m. We still had the
Duomo and the Roman temple and Santa Chiava to see and it
seemed as if we walked and climbed miles up steep grass-grown
streets for at last when we had got through and came down
to the lowest level, which was hundreds of feet up above the
valley, we were able to do nothing but get a cup of tea at the
Giotto.* The Roman temple was almost perfect and is the
one Goethe preferred to see rather than San Francesco.

I was so sorry not to go to the Brufani Hotel here (Siena),
as it is right over the parapet and has a wonderful view and
is kept by an English woman, but I had foolishly telegraphed
to the Palace Hotel and so had to come here. Our ride was
most restful and most beautiful and we found Perugia more
attractive than any other place. I dislike the idea of leaving
it and hope I may come back sometime.

In the morning we rested, being too tired to go out, but
in the afternoon we took a little carriage and drove around
within the walls, seeing the different gates, Roman and Etrus-
can, and visited the Etruscan Museum at the old University.
At five we went to the Brufani Hotel at one side of the Public
Park, both occupying the spot where the Baglionis and other
great families had their castles, fought it out and then the
victorious Pope Paul 3rd (Farnese) overcame them and built
a great fortress over all this high part and imprisoned and tor-
tured the Perugians until now the monument in the Piazza
in front of this Hotel gives glory to Victor Emmanuel who
delivered them from the rule ot the Popes.

I sat out in the Park gazing at the wonderful sunset light-
ing up Assisi and Spello and Foligno and coming back leaned

* What energy for a woman of 60!

569

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

over the Parapet to see the Porta Marcia, the Etruscan gate,
imbedded into the present bastion, which descends to the
winding street. It still has statues in its niches, for it was
spared by both nobles and popes.

This morning we went up to the Piazza Municipio, where
we had to climb to the 4th story to see the museum, with
Peruginos and Pinturicchios and San Georgios and Bonfigli,
not so very different from one another but all beautiful. Then
in the next building, right on the ground floor of the old Col-

COLLEGIO DEL CAMBIO, PERUGIA

legio del Cambio, which I suppose was an Exchange, were two
rooms, the first entirely wood carving, seats like in the choirs
of churches, and the second a judicial seat and bench of the
money changers carved up to the ceiling, the rest of it covered
with Perugino's greatest frescoes, which Napoleon was not
able to carry away. You cannot imagine anything more
beautiful and mediaeval.

The piazza at the side of the Municipio contains a beauti-
ful carved fountain, one story of marble and one of bronze.
That side of the Municipio has a fine outside staircase and

570

ITALY

Immense griffins, the symbol of Perugia, standing out from
the wall and from there a narrow dark street pitches down
between high dark houses to a little Piazza with fine view,
which is upheld by Etruscan walls, which curve out to the
right and left.

We were lucky to enter the Cathedral this morning just as
they finished a high mass in full pontificals, and then a pro-
cession went through the church (music fine) and disappeared.
They then dismantled the high altar and shortly after I saw
a dozen old men in a sort of linen wrappers take their seats in
the middle of the church and the Bishop, after much dressing
in purple and aprons, proceeded to wash and kiss the feet of
the twelve and put something around their necks. In the
meantime the chanting was very fine. We are hurrying to
post these letters so they will get the ship at Cherbourg on
Saturday.

We expect to get to Florence on the 17th and hope to find
letters there as it will have been 1 1 days since we left Rome
and letters. What a pity you cannot all be with us to see
these beautiful things and it is perfectly comfortable.

We hoped to see those Americans we met in the train
yesterday at tea, but did not see them. They live in Rome
and came up here for a short time. If it does not rain in the
morning we shall drive to San Gimignano, which is 7 miles
from its railway station and then be left at the station Poggi-
bonsi in time for the 4 p. ai. for Florence, where I suppose
we shall be for a week.

The whole population here is out in the Park (the Lizza)
from six to seven, and it is quite amusing from our windows
to see them. I get a little homesick when I see American
young men, but it will soon be all over and I shall be at home
again. We look forward to letters tomorrow evening and hope
for only good news after a wait of ten days. With much love
to you all and hoping you are having lovely warm weather
like this.

Most affectionately, M. D. R.

571

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Grand Hotel Royal, Siena,

April 15th, 1906.
Easter Sunday made us imagine what you were all doing
at home. We were rather disappointed at the service in the
Cathedral, as the music was not particularly impressive. The
church itself is superb, all black, white and red marble and
magnificently carved inlaid floors, a wonderful pulpit by
Pisano. The Piccolomini chapel is a work of art, all exqui-

MONTE OLIVETO, SIENA

sitely carved marble and near it opens the library of the
Cathedral in which are the best works of Pinturicchio
illustrating the life of Pius H.

After lunch we drove to a neighboring castello belonging
to a Count Caimoli called "Belcaro" and has a wall with path
all round and is a fortified place. It dates from the 15th cen-
tury and has one or two good frescoes on the ceilings. The
trees were most beautiful and reaching up to the top of the

572

ITALY

walls are kept trimmed so the effect from the outside is an
enormously high hedge. Inside is a modern country house.

We then drove on the way home to a suppressed convent,
which had been bought by a family and used as their home,
of course they use only one side and around the small court.
Back in the large Court or cloisters, with the antique well,
is a chapel with very good pictures, which were all bought
at the same time and probably didn't cost very much.

The Lizza is the fashionable garden of Siena and is back
of our hotel. The bastions of the Fort Santa Barbara are also
used as a promenade, so we went at six expecting to hear the
band play as usual on Sunday. There were throngs of people
but no band. The weather is delightful and I hope will last
to get us to Florence. We are getting up early to drive to
Monte Oliveto so goodbye for to-night. I am very tired.

Siena, Monday eve., April i6th.

A lovely ride to Monte Oliveto, a great monastery situated
in the midst of chalk hills with winding roads bordered by
tall cypresses. It is pathetic to see the great place with only
four Benedictine monks left in charge. The walls of the
larger court are lined with frescoes by Sodoma; subjects the
life of St. Benedict.

We thought when some automobiles passed us that we
should have company there but they had all passed on by the
old road to Rome and we picniced alone, with a very old
peasant and some dogs. We were most of the time on very
high ground so the views were fine and very distant. As we
went by the Roman road we used the Porta Romana, a very
interesting double gate of mediaeval times.

A big auto arrived at the Hotel just as we were coming in
and a quite young American couple got out of it. We are
curious to know who they are, the young man is very handsome
and very tall. So many of the people here are in their own
autos. What a delightful way to travel through the dust.

As usual bright sunshine and very warm. We have had

573

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

our windows wide open all day and it is as warm as a May
day. The rains were sadly needed to lay the dust which had
become very trying. Everywhere we meet automobiles.

I hope to arrange to go to Monte Olivcto in one on Mon-
day. We did not hurry out today but when we were quite
ready went out on foot up the main Corso which has many
interesting mediaeval palaces on little piazzas and finally

SIENA

came to a flight of steps leading down to the great Piazza
where is the centre of life here, and renamed as everything in
Italy is, "Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele." Here is the famous
"Palazzo Publico" which has always been the seat of Govern-
ment and has fine old halls with great frescoes and carved
seats in the Council Hall of Siena. It is a Gothic build-
ing with a fine tower at one end and called the Maugia and

574

ITALY

a beautiful chapel in the form of a loggia. In the place is a
lovely fountain by Delia Querela from 1409. They have re-
moved the original to the Cathedral Museum and the present
one is only a copy. Also the pictures have been removed
from the Cathedral to this same Museum, which we shall see
to-morrow.

We shall attend the Easter service there and see the
Library which is filled with Pinturicchio's finest frescoes. In
the Academia delle Belle Arte is a whole history of Italian
Painting, or rather Sienese, beginning with the earliest By-
zantine Madonnas and Altar pieces and ending with Sodoma.
Here was his great "Descent from the Cross," a wonderful
picture, and when you think that he died at 24, it is too wonder-
ful to believe. His other greatest picture the "Adoration of
the Magi" is in the church of San Agostino. I write these
things out in order to recapitulate and settle in my own mind
where I have seen these pictures for it is certainly confusing.

The Cathedral is a wonder, on one side two stories high,
the lower story being the former Baptistery, with a magnifi-
cent Gothic front. You climb up an enormous flight of steps
to the left of this and come out on a great Piazza, where to
the right is the Fagade of the Cathedral, also Gothic, but with
the three gables filled in with Venetian Mosaic and great
arches go off to the left, which are all that was left of a nave
once planned to make the present cathedral only the transept.

I cannot think Siena as beautiful as Perugia, as the coun-
try around is not nearly so lovely, and there are no dark
Etruscan walls or gateways, and seems modern with only
mediaeval attractions. It will seem strange to get back to
modern pictures. I have learned to care very much for the
ancient stiff Byzantine altar pieces with their gold halos and
gold backgrounds and soft colorings. I will write again about
what we see tomorrow. You can read the description of Monte
Oliveto in Bourget's "Mr. Saint," which I have somewhere.

575

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence,

April 1 8th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

You can't imagine how surprised the Caseys were when
we walked into the dining room last night, and we were glad
to be with friends again. I sent you a postal from San Gimig-
nano, where we spent three hours seeing the Cathedral and
Palazzo Publico and Podesta. What was more interesting

SAN GIMIGNANO

were the old palaces of families now come to an end. The
highest nobility were entitled to two towers, the lesser to only
one. The towers are enormous square ones built very high
and no windows until at least the 3rd story, a queer idea of
comfort to only begin to live above the third floor. Even the
picture galleries in this part of the country are on the 3rd or
4th floor.

This hotel is small and full of very nice Americans and

576

ITALY

English. It has a palm garden which Is really the only place
they have to sit in the evenings and it is quite gay after dinner.

I had written some time ago to both White Star Line and
Hamburg-American and found letters here last night, which
were not satisfactory, so went at once to the offices this morn-
ing and cannot get anything but inside staterooms before
May 24th. I am telegraphing so as to do the very best.

I was so glad to get all your letters and it seems to me you
are very gay, going to so many dinners with bridge, &c. I
am delighted that you are being invited so much. I hoped
one of your last letters might be an answer to mine in Rome,
but it was not.

Of course at Paris it may be possible a stateroom would
be given up on some of the ships. Countess Adelmann wrote
that they would be angry if we did not stop and said to come
by Innsbruck and Munich, where Mechtilde is. I don't see
how we can spare the time but might give up two days. We
shall stay here a week — have been in the Uffizi all afternoon.

With much love to all of you, and looking forward to see-
ing you all soon.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence,

Thurs. April 19th, 1906.
Dear F,

After going through the Uffizi gallery yesterday after-
noon Laura and I spent the morning in our rooms, as we were
absolutely too tired to look at anything, and it was pouring
rain. While I lay in bed Mary Macauley came and I had her
come up. She looked very well and stylish, said they are
quite gay here and have taken an apartment here and do not
expect to go to America this summer. They have asked us
to come in for tea Sunday afternoon.

Florence is lovely — the old Ponte Vecchio is so picturesque
and I remember it well. I also remembered the Hotel where
Father and I stayed on the Lung Arno. Every one says it is

37 577

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

utterly impossible to see Florence in a week, but I think we
can get a very good idea of it.

I hope to-morrow to leave my card at Countess di Calry's.
I got a few large photographs to-day — they are so beautiful
and here they have wonderful gilt frames for them which set
them off perfectly, but the difficulty is to get them home.
That reminds me — we have just heard of the dreadful earth-
quake in San Francisco and I am very anxious to know how
the Watsons have escaped. They say Mt. ^tna is getting
ready to do something. Tell Clifford we were way up at Or-
vieto when the eruption of Vesuvius occurred. I should have
liked to see it after the danger was over but I think when the
people didn't know whether they could get out of Naples
alive it must have been far from pleasant. They say you
could see nothing on account of the ashes falling everywhere.

Of course we are not gay but we enjoy seeing things and
travelling. Countess Adelmann says you will not mind our
taking time to stop there, and I suppose we must. I am w^ait-
ing to hear from the Hamburg-American about a stateroom.

With much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Anglo-American Hotel, Florence,

April 2 1 St, 1906.
Dear Clifford & Sam,

We have had such a beautiful drive to Fiesole this after-
noon. Being unusually tired w^e didn't feel like sightseeing
and found a Mrs. Kelly and her young daughter, whom Laura
met at York Harbor and who crossed on the Celtic with us,
willing to share the carriage with us.

The trees are all out and there was a continuous hedge of
rose bushes in full bloom, also the Wistaria in bloom. It was
so warm that after looking at the Roman theatre and baths
we went to the Hotel Aurora, which has a magnificent view
over Florence and had tea out of doors and found it as warm

as a summer day.

578

ITALY

A very slight tremor was felt here this morning. I noticed
my bed move with a quick shake, but never thought of its
being an earthquake until I heard other people talking about
it. There is great excitement and interest in the San Fran-
cisco disaster. Some people here in this Hotel have lost
whole blocks of buildings and for all they know are ruined.
It seems Impossible to get any positive news about the dis-
aster.

I wish you could see the superb automobiles here, so big

THE ROMAN THEATRE AT FIESOLE. NEAR FLORENCE

and fine. People arrive daily at the hotels by dozens in their
own automobiles. We are sure of a stateroom on the Amerika
May 25th, but have not been able to get anything earlier. As
soon as I get to Paris I will try to get something that may be
given up, but I am hoping your Father will not insist upon
our giving up London, as it Is we would only have a few days
there.

My plan now is to go to Venice 25th making a week here,
leaving Venice 29th for Innsbruck, where we would spend the
night, and go on to either Munich or Lake Constance, getting

579

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to Sigmaringen the next day and, after two days' visit there,
straight through to Paris by night. That brings us up to
May 4th or 5th.

To-day we went to the old Bargello, ancient Palace of the
Podesta, which has a beautiful court with outside staircase,
which you have often seen pictures of, full of interesting
things. Florence is very attractive and bright. The jewelry
shops are fascinating on the Ponte Vecchio and in the late
afternoon the bridge and views over the river, the crowds of
gaily dressed people, make it a most interesting sight.

With much love.

Your aff. mother, M. D. R.

Florence, April 24th, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I can take only a moment from my packing to tell you I
am leaving to-morrow morning for Venice — bought our tickets
all the way to Paris, by Verona, Brenner Pass to Botzen,
Innsbruck, Munich, Lindau and Sigmaringen, Schaffhausen,
Zurich and Basle to Paris.

I bought a piece of jewelry here and thought I might want
to use my American Express checks in Germany. I think I
will take a piece of Venetian glass to Countess Adelmann.

With much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

Hotel Royal Danieli, Venice,

April 26th, 1906.

Dear Frank and Boys,

Yesterday morning we left Florence with rain threatening

and cold. We took a rather slow train in order to arrive by

7.10 instead of 10 at night. Mrs. Kelly and her daughter

went with us to Fiesole Saturday afternoon, a most perfect

day, and we had lovely views, everything so beautifully green

and the purple wistaria in great clusters over the villas.

580

ITALY

Our ride over the Apennines was most interesting, we
counted 45 tunnels and many viaducts, and It was quite
beautiful. I gave up stopping at Bologna as it was so rainy
and it would have made such a very long day. As it was our
train was late and it was after eight when we arrived, but not
raining.

Venice is just as surprisingly beautiful as ever and crowded
with people. We enjoyed waiting in the gondola while they
got our baggage — everything was an entrancing picture.

DOOR OF ST. MARK'S, VENICE

They had a room ready at the Danieli and we bounced into
a lot of people very much dressed up and listening to music,
and as soon as possible got a bite to eat and we went out to
the Piazza thinking that as it was St. Mark's day there would
be music, but found only a crowd of people.

The Campanile is not built up and there is only an ugly
wooden fence around the spot. This morning we started out
on foot and went into the Doges' palace and it took us two
hours to see it. By giving Mrs. Merrick's name at a lace

581

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

store they took off ten per cent, so I availed myself of it and
got a piece of rose point I have long wanted.

I cannot imagine anything more beautiful than Venice —
it is entrancing. Laura is crazy over it, thinking it more
wonderful than she even expected. We went to the St. Maria
della Salute* and to the Frari to see Canova's tomb and the
great Titian Madonna enthroned. The Frari was full of scaf-

THE BRONZE HORSES, ST. MARK'S

foldings and workmen and the pictures were taken into a
neighboring church, which we had to hunt up. I did not re-
member the great beauty of this church, both exterior and
interior. It dates from the nth century and the carvings in
tombs, pulpits and screens are exquisite.

We have gazed at St. Mark's from the outside with wonder
and amazement and to-morrow will enter and if the day proves

•Destroyed in 1916 by German aeroplanes.

582

ITALY

pleasant will go to the Lido in a steamboat. The latter are
everywhere, and I must say interfere with the gondolas and
the beauty of the water-way. The private gondolas are fas-
cinating with their flags and queer uniforms of gondoliers,
which match the colors shown on the great poles in front of
the palaces. This afternoon we saw Don Carlos and his wife
in a steam gondola, with Spanish flag flying. They have a
palace here. It seems to be the thing to have a home in Venice.
How I wish you could all be here to enjoy this place.
Laura thinks this the best of all and that each place is more
wonderful than the last. When we came out from dinner we
sat in a square hall which has two or three galleries above all
around and there was a very good company of musicians
stationed in the second gallery above — some of them men,
and women also sang very well, so it was quite a concert. It
is blowing a gale outside and doesn't look as if we would get
to the Lido to-morrow.

Venice, April 28th, 1906.
Dear F,

When I went to notify the Concierge that I was going to
take the 8.20 train for Munich to-morrow he asked me if I had
engaged seats and I said no. I didn't know that one bought
seats in this country. He said they were engaged weeks be-
fore so he has telegraphed in great haste to see what can be
done and thinks I may perhaps get something at Verona,
where we stay an hour. I can only hope if I cannot get on
the train to-morrow that perhaps I may be accommodated
Monday.

I can't believe so many people can be going to Munich at
this season. At last the sun shines and we have been in a
gondola to Murano to see the glass blowers and the Museum.
The Venezia and Murano company sent us in their gondola.
The view of the Alps was entrancing, covered with snow.
I heard an English lady say they had just had snow in Staf-
fordshire. We think of going out to the Lido this afternoon.

583

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Last night there were plenty of middies in the Hotel as
the warship Drake was in with Prince Louis of Battenberg,
who went to the Hotel de I'Europe where our friends the Kellys
are. The launches made a great noise early this morning
gathering them up as the ship sailed away early.

We shall get no letters now until Paris, unless you by
chance have written to the Adelmanns. Hoping for good luck
at Verona, with much love to all.

AflFly., M. D. R.

The treasures of St. Mark's are inexhaustible and it is un-
doubtedly the most wonderful, beautiful and interesting
(architecturally and historically) church in the world. There
are two wonderful twisted translucent alabaster columns said
to be from the Temple of Solomon. The great "Pala d'Oro"
an altarfront never exposed except at Easter and to strangers
for money. Enameled figures in gold and silver and a mass of
enormous gems of all kinds except diamonds. There must be
millions of money in it. Then there is a great slab of granite
from Mt. Tabor and the most ancient carved pulpits, colored
marbles, and it looks more like a Jewish synagogue than a
church.

GERMANY

Sigmaringen, May 2nd, 1906.
Dear Frank,

I hardly know how to begin, having let two days go by
without writing. We left Venice on the 29th, a beautiful
summer morning, but on our arrival at Verona, when I went
immediately to the Wagons-Lits I was told that the through
train to Munich was full, not a seat to be had, that he had a
telegram from Milan to that effect.

Well! I said there are other trains and I want to go on one
of them, as I must be in Munich that night. He then informed
me there was no other train, only a slow train at 6 p. m.
which would get to Munich the next forenoon. Of course I
wanted to cross the Brenner Pass in the daytime so Laura
could see the Alps, so I told the man I intended to go on that
train and he must find a way; that they should feel obliged to
take us when we had telegraphed two days before, &c.

I stuck right by him until he said my only chance was that
there would be some people from the Hotels coming and he
could put on another car. Finally other people did come, but
they didn't all want to go as far as Munich, but you can im-
agine my relief when he said he would put on the extra car
and gave me my tickets for ^9 (45 lire) extra! When it came
we went immediately to lunch and then were prepared to enjoy
the scenery which was magnificent. At Botzen we got out
and bought the best cakes you can imagine and had tea at five
in our compartment.

585

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

The snow was far down the Mts., and when we got to
Brenner-Bad the snow was to be seen far below. On our ar-
rival at Munich Mechtilde's husband met us in uniform and
escorted us to the Hotel, where we froze in a big cold room
ail night without heat. In the morning Mechtilde came and
said her mother-in-law was coming at once and wanted us
for lunch. I had accepted the night before to Baron von
Soden, but found I should go by the one o'clock fast train to

HOUSE OF PEERS, MUNICH

Sigmaringen, otherwise we would have to go by a slow train
arriving at Sigmaringen at midnight.

There was to be a grand affair in the House of Peers at
ten o'clock to which they were going and wished us to go with
them. It was the introduction of the son of Prince Karl
Theodore to the Peers on taking his seat in the House.

The royal party came in carriages and we went up to (it
is snowing hard as I write) the third floor and entered a small
gallery at the end of the great hall. About twenty or twenty-
five ladies were seated in it, and before the elder Baroness sat

down she spoke and shook hands with two ladies at our right

586

GERMANY

and told me it was Princess Karl Theodore, a beautiful woman
and mother of the young Prince to be presented.

I wish I could describe the uniforms and orders. The
Regent is 88, too old to be present, but his son and all the
young Princes were there and the Ministers and the Peers.
The President and two others sat at a high desk and one below
at a table. The two marched down the aisle and all the others
rose and the young Prince Franz Josef appeared between them
in cavalry officer's uniform with helmet and plume.

The oath was read to him and he held up his right hand

BURG ADELMANNSFELDEN, ELWANGEN, WURTEMBERG

and said "Ich schware," then he brought his heels together
and bowed to the President, then to the Ministers, then to the
Peers and went and took the seat next to his Father. The
latter I was most interested to see as he is the great oculist
and does a great amount of good. The Princess helps him in
his work and reads to the blind people during their recovery.
She is a grandmother but looked very young.

Baron von Soden is also a Peer of the Realm, which is the
reason we sat in the gallery with Royalty.

Count Adelmann was very much amused at our having
only two hours in Munich and getting in with Princes and
Princesses.

587

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

My tickets from Cook in Venice sent us by Lindau and I
found I had to come by Augsburg and Ulm, so I went to Cook
and he said they would redeem the unused tickets in London.
We came in a fast train arriving at 4.45 — found Count and
Countess Adelmann waiting for us in the station and Widman
to attend to the luggage.

CASTLE HOHENZOLLERN. SIGMARINGEN

The trees are only budding out and it is wintry cold, but
the air is very bracing. Mechtilde and her husband saw us off
at Munich and gave us each bunches of roses.

It seemed very natural to be walking up through the Park
and garden with the Adelmanns and everything was as familiar
as possible. They have made many little improvements, high
wainscoting through the whole hall, modern plumbing equip-
ment, Persian rug in my bedroom, &c., but most of all,
every brass thing and all the pewter mugs and steins were
polished like silver and the floors thoroughly waxed.

They were very much pleased with the piece of Venetian
glass I brought her and Count Adelmann said I had excellent
taste. I gave him a photograph of a Botticelli from Florence
which also pleased him. General von Camerer came in the
afternoon and stayed just 24 hours. We all had great fun.

GERMANY

Count Adelmann is very droll. I seem to understand
German better than I used and Laura got along famously,
especially with Count Adelmann. The second evening Count
and Countess Bruhl came to supper. She was a Quadt, sister
of Count Quadt, who came to Washington, very high rank
but very shy and simple — you probably remember him.

The next day they sent their open high carriage to take
us driving. It snowed hard four times and after we had
started, but we put up our umbrellas and were rewarded with
occasional views and it cleared entirely when we got back to
Inzigkofen. I missed the poor Prince.* I doubt if Count
Adelmann is as happy as in his lifetime. The castle is finished
outside and we saw some of the new part. The young Prince
stays in Berlin where he has a military position. It is a most
beautiful castle and a joy forever architecturally.

Baur-au-Lac, Zurich, 6 P. M.,

Thurs. May 3rd.
We left Sigmaringen this morning at nine and changed at
Immendingen and then got the finest sleeping car through

RIVER ALONGSIDE HOTEL BAUER AU LAC, ZURICH

*The Prince Leopold of Sigmaringen who gave us a dinner in 1897. He died in Berlin,

having gone to the Crown Prince's wedding.

589

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

train from Berlin I have ever seen. Compartments perfectly
ventilated and every detail perfectly carried out. I fear ours
to-night will not be so good.

I made a mistake to buy my tickets beyond Munich as I
had to buy others. I expect Cook to redeem them. We saw
the great ruin of Hohentviel near Singen (see Ekkehard) and
had a wonderful view of the Rhine Falls at Schaffhausen, an
absolutely perfect day and very warm. We have driven around
this place and have seen the Landes-Museum thoroughly,
with its real mediaeval rooms taken from different castles and
houses. We have sat out on the lake front and are now ready
to take leave. I am going to post this from here and must
let it go now. Hoping to get a full mail at Paris tomorrow
morning, with much love to all.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

FRANCE

Hotel Belmont, Paris,

5th May, 1906.

Dear Frank,

We left Sigmaringen in the rain with great regret, but it
cleared at Immendingen and we had a lovely view of the Rhine
Falls and arrived at Zurich at one o'clock. As we were not
to take the sleeping car for Paris until 9 p. m. we took lunch
in the station and then drove around the town and had tea
in a tea shop and finished up at the Baur-au-Lac and sat out
on the lake front until six and then had dinner at the hotel
and took the omnibus back to the station.

The ride to Paris was a very rough and shaky one, altho
the stateroom was very comfortable. We got in at 7.40 and
quickly got a porter and rushed out and secured a little omni-
bus; then I went back and got the trunks through the custom
house and in a very short time were on our way to the Hotel.
The proprietor received us very politely and had a small bed-
room and large salon ready for us, costing us 35 francs a day
for all, food included.

I went immediately to Harjes' and got two letters from
you and one from Clifford. They told us two gentlemen had
just been there to inquire but left no name or address. We
suppose it was Mr. D. and hoped he would have been here

591

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to-night but he did not come. We were terribly tired, even
Sigmaringen did not rest us, for we talked so much there.
There is some shopping to do and we propose to get through it
as quickly as possible before doing any sightseeing. It looks
quite hopeless but Laura must see some of the galleries and
churches.

I have sent cards to the Bairds and Rochambeaus this even-
ing. To-day has been perfectly beautiful. I have no clothes to
wear in the street as my black cloth is too heavy and it looks
like hard work to get anything. Paris is so crowded. We have
not seen King Edward as yet.

Paris, May yth, 1906.

To-day while we were out the Bairds and Rochambeaus
called. Laura stayed in yesterday. I went to church and when
I got back Addie Eads Hazard and her sister Mrs. Howe
called and I ordered tea.

We went first to the Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb,

then to the Luxembourg gardens (the Museum was closed),

then we drove by the Pantheon and St Etienne du Mont and

then to Notre Dame, coming back by the old Louvre and St

Germain I'Auxerrois and then to tea at Columbin's. Much

love to all.

Your aif., M. D. R.

Hotel Belmont, Paris,

May 8th, 1906.
Dear Clifford,

I have your letter of April 22nd and note what you say.
To-day we had tea at Rumpelmeyer's on the Rue de Rivoli
after a hard day's work at dressmaker's. When we got back
to the hotel we found the Marquise de Rochambeau had
called and also Lord Berwick and Miss Noel-Hill.

It is too bad but we cannot sit in the house this beautiful
weather in order to see people! There was a heavy hail storm
while we were in a carriage and we were obliged to sit still

592

FRANCE

until it passed over. Lord Berwick called early which I think
indicated he tried to find us in, for of course every one is out
in the late afternoon. I think I shall return their call at an,
hour when there is some prospect of finding them at home.

I want to get to Versailles and Fontainebleau if possible
and we must drive once in the Bois de Boulogne. I am very
tired and must get to bed. We shall go to London either i6th
or 17th May and sail from Dover 25th, and will soon be home.
Tell the girls to get the house entirely dismantled and give
my love to all the family. Hoping to see you all soon, with
much love. Your aff., M. D. R.

Hotel Belmont, Paris, 13th of May, 1906.
Dear Frank,

Such a busy few days as I have put in trying to give Laura
some idea of Paris, getting a few clothes and trying to see
friends! Yesterday we spent the entire day at Versailles and
it was the first really warm sunshiny whole day for some time.
We took a train from the Pont de I'Alma and had to drive a
mile to the Trianons where we also walked in the Park and saw
the thatched houses of Marie Antoinette's Laiterie. Then we
had lunch at the Hotel des Reservoirs, formerly the residence
of Mme. de Pompadour.

It was all ideally beautiful. Going out of the back of the
Hotel we were at once in the Park and walked up the shady
avenue to the Palace where we spent three hours and then took
a cup of tea in the garden of the same Hotel before returning
to town hot and tired.

The night before we went to the Grand Opera and saw a
really magnificent performance of Samson and Delilah with
Alvarez as Samson and Mme. Heglou as Delilah. The latter
had a superb contralto voice and was also beautiful. The
music is lovely and well interpreted by a very large orchestra
— the chorus was perfect and "mise-en-scene" faultless. With
all that a superb ballet which gave a sort of pantomime ballet
after the Opera and you can imagine how fine it was.
38 593

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Two Hindoo women in most gorgeous gold embroidered
veils and clothes sat near us. We walked out between the
acts so Laura could see the house and had some orangeades
and cake between the Opera and Ballet, arriving home after
one o'clock. You see how independent we are.

The night before we had seen the Cid at the "Fran^ais"
beautifully acted, but we were glad to stay in last night.
This morning we made a good start and went to St. Sulpice,

AVENUE DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE, PARIS

where Widor is the organist and heard magnificent playing of
real church music, a fugue of Bach's played to perfection.
After service we walked over to the Luxembourg Gallery and
saw its contents, then I stopped at the Madeleine to let Laura
walk through it and then home.

We fixed up a bit and went to Mrs. Hazard's to lunch
where her sister Mrs. Howe is staying. Her son is in the
Latin Quarter with a young Mr. Tilson who is studying the
organ with Widor and a young artist Mr. Cobb who were all

594

FRANCE

at lunch, as well as Mrs. McKinley and her niece Miss Filley,
so we had a very gay lunch. I was glad for Laura to meet
some young people.

I had a carriage come for us to drive to the Bois but none
of the party could go along so we went alone, and as Mrs.
Hazard gave us tickets for the Puteaux Club, Isle de Puteaux,
we drove there at once, passing through Neuilly. The Put-
eaux Club is the swellest in Paris and as on Sunday the other
resorts are filled with objectionable people it was delightful
to be able to go there. We had to cross the river in the queerest
little flat ferry boats that ran on a cable by a crank.

The island was beautifully green and we were early enough
to get a good table and watch the crowd of French, English
and Americans. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt and Gladys came.
They didn't seem to know any more people than we did. After
a stay of an hour we came away.

We took the usual drive around the Cascade and the Lakes
and with the chestnut trees in full bloom, some white and
some pink, you can imagine how beautiful the Park was. Un-
fortunately the automobiles making such noises and smells
ruin it all. To-morrow I have asked the Rochambeaus and
Mrs. Hazard and Mrs. Howe to have tea at the Ritz, and we
are to dine with the Marquise Wednesday evening, our last in
Paris. Mrs. Baird asked us to have tea with her Saturday
but we had to go to Versailles and I asked her for to-morrow
but through a misunderstanding of the maid she thought we
were going to her. Thursday morning we go to Dover, stay-
ing over night so as to see it and go on to Canterbury Cathedral,
arriving in London Friday night, the i8th, and then we come
back to Dover to sail 25th. How glad I shall be to see you all
again and hope you will meet us in New York.

With much love to you all.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

ENGLAND

Lord Warden Hotel, Dover,

May 17th, 1906.

Dear Frank and Boys,

We left Paris this morning early and had a very comfort-
able and quiet but cold trip across the Channel and are look-
ing forward to a good night's rest.

Yesterday was a very full day. I met Mrs. Baird and was
presented to Mme. Marchesi, who was more than kind in her
reception of us. Then I met Mrs. Hazard and Mrs. Howe
down town and all went to Viau's for lunch. Then we flew
home to pack and in the midst of it M. d'Aillieres and Baron
Boulay de la Meurthe appeared at six and we had to see them.
They were full of gratitude for our attention to them in
America. I was sorry I did not let them know at once we
were in Paris, for when I did at last they were out of town
and came at once on their return.

We had a warm reception at the Rochambeau's at dinner
and we all four (the Count and Countess) packed into a Vic-
toria and came home together. They could not have been
more cordial. Both they and the young Frenchmen sent their
kindest greetings to you and the boys, Fanny and Joe, Lena
and Betty. I do hope it will be a little warmer for our trip

596

ENGLAND

DOVER CASTLE

A BIT OF CANTERBURY

597

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to Canterbury tomorrow. I am so very tired I must beg off
and am looking forward to being together again so very soon.
Hoping you are all well and things going on all right.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

C A XT ER BU R V C ATH E URA L

The Hotel Metropole, London,

May 2 1 St, 1906.
Dear Frank,

This is my last letter before sailing and yours arrived this
afternoon. I do hope Clifford will not go West before I get back.

I have tried to arrange to go to Oxford, but the weather
has been so bad I have just written Katy we cannot go.
Lena's friend Mrs. Greenall has invited us to lunch with her
at the Empress Club Wednesday.

Please be at the ship. I must get to bed so good-bye, with

much love.

Your aff., M. D. R.

598

THE JOURNEYS OF 1910

FROM THE OIL PORTRAIT BY ALICE KENT STODDARD

aHAaaoT8 tv.sx aouA Ya TiAHXiioq jio aiiT uo^i-i

THE JOURNEYS OF 1910

Steamship "Cedric," to the Azores, Ponta Delgada, Madeira,
Gibraltar, Algeciras, Naples; Sorrento, Ravello, Rome, Assisi,
Perugia, Florence, Ravenna, Ferrara, Padua, Venice, Abbazia,
Trieste, Fiume, Trau, Spalato, Dalmatian Coast, Zara, Zara
Vecchio, Zebenico, Falls of Krka, Salona, Clissa, Ragusa,
Bocche de Cattaro, Mostar, Zablanika, Sarajevo, Gorge of
the Varenta, Jablanica, Herzegovina, Bosnia, Jayce, Across
the Balkans, Banjaluka, Gorge of the Urbas, Agram, Buda
Pesth, Vienna, Salzburg, Munich, Sigmaringen, Chiemsee,
Zurich, Paris, Aboard the "Cincinnati" and home.

INDEX TO LETTERS OF 1910

Aboard S. S. Cedric Feb. i6,

J. Pierpont Morgan Feb. l6,

Interesting stewardess. . .Feb. 20,
Sunshine and heat cross-
ing Gulf Stream Feb. 20,

Ponta Delgada Feb. 23,

Beautiful gardens and

birds Feb. 23,

Jesuit church Feb. 23 ,

Bullock carts Feb. 25,

Sledges back to town . . . .Feb. 25,

Strawberries Feb. 25,

Diving natives Feb. 25,

Mr. Morgan buys birds. .Feb. 25,

Gibraltar Feb. 28,

Algeciras Feb. 28,

Spanish Hotel Feb. 28,

The Alameda Feb. 28,

Usual Gibraltar oranges. .Feb. 28,

Sorrento Mar. 5,

Delightful sunny weather Mar. 5,

Naples Mar. 5,

Stone docks built since

former visit Mar. 5,

New grotto, Solfatara,
Pozzuoli, Lerapeum,
Baise, Lake Avernus,
Grotto of Cumsan

Sybil Mar. 5,

Falernian Hill, promon-
tory of Nisida Mar. 5,

Sleeping under mosquito

nets Mar. 5,

Ravello Mar. 8,

Beautiful beyond descrip-
tion Mar. 8,

Amalfi Mar. 8,

Palazzo delli Afflitili Mar. 8,

Palazzo Rufolo Mar. 8,

Sir James Lacaito Mar. 8,

Influence of the Saracens

in architecture Mar. 8,

Daffodils, violets and

primroses Mar. 8,

Cembrone Mar. 8,

Perfect place to rest Mar. 8,

Naples Mar. 1 2,

La Cava Mar. 12,

•Celebrating birthday. . . .Mar. 12,

Fine cooking Mar.12,

Rome, Palace Hotel Mar.15,

Opera of "Iris," Mas-

cagni conducting Mar.15,

Janiculum, Villa Borg-

hese, and the Pincian. .Mar.15,

1900
I9IO
I9IO

607
608
608

I9IO
I9IO

608
609

I9I0

610

I9IO

610

I9IO

610

I9IO

611

I9IO

612

I9IO

612

I9IO

612

I9IO
I9IO
I9I0
I9I0
I9IO

613

614
614

614

I9IO
I9I0
I9I0

615
615
616

I9IO 616

I9I0

617

I9IO

617

I9IO

617

I9I0

618

I9IO

618

I9I0

618

I9I0

618

I9I0

618

I9I0

618

I9I0

618

I9I0

618

I9IO

619

I9IO

619

I9IO

620

I9I0

620

I9I0

621

I9IO

621

I9I0

621

I9IO 622

I9I0 622

I9I0 623

I9I0 624

I9I0 625

I9I0 627

I9IO 627

I9I0 627

Pantheon, Raphael's

Sybils Mar. 16,

Palace of Prince Massimo Mar. 16,
Appian Way to St. Paul's

Basilica A'Iar.i6,

Lectures of Prof. Renaud Mar.20,
Grand Hotel (Brufani),

Perugia Mar.23,

Vatican, Baron d'Isola. . .Mar.23,
Assisi, Spello and Spo-

leto Mar.23, 1910 626

Florence, Anglo American

Hotel Mar.

Excursion to Grassina. . . .Mar.
Good Friday procession. Mar.

OflF to Bologna Mar.

Ravenna, Bryon Palace

Hotel Mar.30, 1910 630

Early Christian relics

sarcophagi and mosa-
ics Mar.30, 1910 632

Churches of San Vitale

and San Appolian Mar.

Tomb of Galla Placidia. .Mar.
Venice, Hotel de L'Eu-

rope Apr.

Ferrara, old Castello Apr.

"Burrasca" a hard storm Apr.
Padua, Palazzo del Rag-

ione Apr.

Church of St. Anthony of

Padua Apr.

Superb tombs and bas

reliefs by Donatello.. . .Apr.
Sunset on the Fagade of

St. Marks Apr.

Abbazia Apr.

Bora blowing Apr.

Trieste reminds of Hom-

bourg Apr.

Abbazia Kursaal Apr.

Trau near Spalato Apr.

Beautiful scenery and

architecture Apr.

Wonderful giant-like

men Apr.

Spalato, Grand Hotel

Bellevue Apr.

Fiume Apr.

Velebit Mts Apr.

Zara, very beautiful and

gay.: Apr.

Good hotels Apr.

Beautiful churches in

1910 622 Zara...._ Apr.

Porta Marina and lovely
1910 622 Roman bits Apr.

603

.30,
■30,

I9I0
I9IO

632
632

4.
4,
4,

I9I0
I9I0
I9IO

633
633
633

1 910

634

I9I0

634

I9I0

634

4,
10,
10,

I9I0
I9IO
I9I0

634

63s

10,
10,
15.

I9IO
I9IO
I9IO

63s
63s
636

15.

I9I0

636

IS,

I9I0

637

IS>
15-
15.

I9I0
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637
637
637

iS>

15.

I9IO
I9I0

637

638

IS.

I9I0

638

• 15-

, I9I0

638

INDEX

Marvelous costumes of the

men Apr. 15, 1910

Sebenico and Zara Vec-

chio Apr. 15, 1910

Aboard the S. S. "Split"

Croat for Spalato Apr. 15, 1910

Sebenico, different from

Zara Apr. 15, 1910

Magnificent Duomo Apr. 15, 1910

P'alls of Krka Apr. 15, 1910

Spalato Apr. 15, 1910

Diocletian's Palace Apr. 15, 1910

Roman Palace and DuomoApr. 15, 1910
Diocletian's Mausoleum. .Apr. 15, 1910
A city inside of a palace. .Apr. 15, 1910
Old town and modern

city Apr. 15, 1910

Real tombs of the mar-
tyrs of the early Chris-
tian church Apr. 15, 1910

Clissa Apr. 15, 1910

Trau Apr. 15, 1910

Most perfect cathedral . .Apr. 15, 1910
Old Venetian Fort of

Camerlango Apr. 15, 1910

Exquisite views Apr. 15, 1910

Lovely hedges of haw-
thorn and purple

flowers Apr. 15, 1910

Aboard a Hungarian-
Croatian boat Apr. 15, 1910

The Jader, a typical

Dalmatian River Apr. 15, 1901

Ragusa Apr. 17, 1910

Grand Hotel Imperial Apr. 17, 1910

Ragusa more perfect than

expected Apr. 17, 1910

Old Town, with great

round towers Apr. 17, 1910

Ivy covered, and gor-
geous flowers Apr. 17, 1910

Men all still giants Apr. 17, 1910

Like Opera Bouffe, so

unreal Apr. 17, 1910

The Brisalje Apr. 17, 1910

All luxury and no priva-
tions Apr. 17, 1910

The Misses Thackeray. . .Apr. 22, 1910

Cettinje Apr. 22, 1910

Albanian Mountains Apr. 22, 1910

Lake Scutari Apr. 22, 1910

Montenegro Apr. 22, 1910

Mostar Apr. 23, 1910

A Turkish town Apr. 23, 1910

Absolutely beautiful and

interesting Apr. 23, 1910

Narenta River Apr. 23, 1910

Very picturesque, full of

Mosques and Turks. . .Apr. 23, 1910

Jablanica Apr. 23, 1910

Sarajevo, Hotel Europe. .Apr. 25, 1910

638

639

639
639
640
641
641
641
641
641

641

642
642
642
642

643
643

643

643
643
643

643

644

644
644

646
647
647
647
647
647
647
647

647
647

Miss Thackeray, niece
of the great author . . . .Apr.

Rack and pinion rail-
way ride Apr.

Over the Karst Apr.

Mostar and the Narenta
River Apr.

Roinerbruckc Apr.

Constant parade of beauti-
ful costumes Apr.

First Mohammedan town
and veiled women Apr.

Austrian officers and
soldiers Apr.

Marvellous costumes of
native women Apr.

Women in trousers Apr.

Hot weather lunching
out doors Apr.

The elite of Mostar Apr.

Jablanica and the Gorge
of Narenta Apr.

Lovely Inn and Garden. .Apr.

Nightingales all night. . . .Apr.

Crossing the border of
Herzegovina to Bosnia. Apr.

Seeing Turks Apr.

Crossing high mountain
range Apr.

Sarajevo a large town,
quite up-to-date Apr.

Officers singing "Gaudea-
mus igitur" Apr.

Sarajevo Apr.

Museum, Costumes of
Bosnia and Croatia. . . .Apr.

Curious sensation of stay-
ing in a place never
heard of Apr.

Automobiles and electric
lights Apr.

Old bronchial trouble,
American pharyngitis . .Apr.

Jayce, beautiful ride from
Sarajevo May

Turkish villages through
Bosnia May

Gorgeous waterfall at
Jayce May

Gorge of the Urbas May

Banjaluka, Agram May

Curious costumes of the
men May

Budapest, Grand Hotel
Hungaria May

The "Burg" Emperor's
castle May

Margarten-Insel May

All sign boards in Hun-
garian Language May

Rain at Budapest May

Comic Opera "Graf von
Luxemburg" May

25, 1910 648

25,
25,

I9I0
I9I0

649
649

25,
25,

1910
I9IO

649
649

25,

I9I0

649

25,

I9I0

650

25,

I9I0

650

25,

I9IO
I9IO

650
650

25,
25,

I9I0
I9IO

650
650

25,
25,
25,

I9IO
I9I0
I9IO

650
650
650

25,

I9IO
I9I0

650

651

25,

I9I0

651

25,

I9I0

651

25,
26,

I9I0
I9I0

651
651

26, I9I0 651

26,
26,
26,

I9IO 651

I9I0 651

I9I0 653

I9IO 653

I9IO 654

I9I0 654

I9I0 655

I9IO 655

I9IO 656

4, 1910 657

604

INDEX

Faust at the Grand OperaAiay

Hof Burg May

Tyrol, Linz, Salzburg.. . .May
Munich, Grand Hotel

Continental May

Glad to get out of savage

Europe May

Joy at reaching a good

hotel May

Vienna May

Rain and bitter cold May

Munich May

Schonbrunn May

Picture Gallery and

Frauen Kirche May

Alte Residenz May

Death of King Edward a

shock May

Sigmaringen May

Chiemsee May

Visit to Graf Adelmann. .May

1910

6S7

1910

6S7

1910

658

1910

658

1910

6S8

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

659

1910

660

14.

1910

661

The Castle finished May 14,

Paris, Hotel de Crillon. .May 14,
Hotel former Palace of

Due de Polignac May 14,

Secured passage on Cin-
cinnati for May 27th . .May 14,
Pre Catalan and Armen-

onville May 14,

Hotel de Crillon May 16,

Versailles May 16,

Hordes of automobiles. . .May 16,
Hideous fashions in Paris May 16,
Tea with Countess Rene

de Rochambeau May 19,

Marquise de Rochambeau May 19,
Lunch for Mrs. Gorton at

Durands May 19,

Play "L'Attaque du
Moulin" by Erckmann-

Chatrian May 19,

Mme. Delna, a great

contralto May 19,

Home on the "Cincinnati" May 19,

1910 661

1910 662

1910 663

1910 664

1910 665

1910 666

1910 667

1 9 10 667

1910 667
1910 667

EN ROUTE

On board S. S. "Cedric" off New York,
Dear Frank: Wednesday, February i6, 1910.

The mail leaves in ten minutes and I have been standing

ABOARD THE "CEDRIC"

in line ever since you left. I hope you saw us, but we could
not see you, try as we might. You will be amused to learn

6o7

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

that Pierpont Morgan is on board; no doubt that is why they
would not furnish a Hst until the ship started.

The sun is shining brightly and all is pleasant. Tell all I
could not write on account of having to be so long in line. I
shall now go down and get out rugs and cushions and neces-
sary things, and hope to spend the afternoon on my chair,
which is not on the highest deck, but the second one.

With much love, and thanks for your great generosity,

Yours aff., M. D. R.

P. S. — I shall write you often, but it will be three weeks
before you can hear from us. Try to get Laura to go to see
"Griseledis."

Onboard S. S. "Cedric,"
Sunday, February 20th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

Here I am writing for the first time in the writing room.
I have been in to dinner for the first time since Wednesday;
yet I have not had the slightest twinge of sea-sickness and
I attribute it to the Metchnikoff tablets, as I don't see how
it could be anything else.

This ship is wonderfully steady and there is practically no
motion at all and we have had the hall port-hole open most ot
the time. Our stewardess is most attentive and is quite an
interesting person, the wife of an English clergyman who died
of consumption, and she was obliged to do something to stave
off a similar condition. We have been either in our chairs on
deck or in bed and have not met anyone. It is not nearly as
gay as on the Celtic.

We land in the Azores on Tuesday morning. Have had sun-
shine every day and were uncomfortably warm crossing the
Gulf Stream, which we are out of today. We shall be glad to
get on land for a while, but the time will not seem long from
now on. I can't get over it, that in spite of my fatigued con-
dition, I have not had a touch of seasickness.

The Captain has not taken any notice of us, but the Second

Steward sent us word that we could have anything cooked to

608

EN ROUTE

order. We found Betty's basket of fruit a veritable treasure
house, and a delightful box of candy from Mrs. Jordan. I
shall write to both. We sit at the first table from the door and
Pierpont Morgan has the small table in the outer corner. I
shall probably write you about our landing at the Azores and
Madeira before closing this, so will just say good night.

Onboard S. S. "Cedric"
Wednesday, February 23rd, 1910.
Dear F.

This is just like sailing on a river, there is so little motion,
and the sunshine is hot. We are expecting to land at Madeira
to-morrow to spend the day. Yesterday we spent three or four

PONTA DELGADE

hours at Ponta Delgade, Isle of San Miguel, Azores. It had
been very stormy on Monday and we feared we would not be
allowed to land, but a north wind cleared the sky and the sun
shone out hot.

We went ashore with some people we did not know and a
gentleman joined us in a carriage for an hour. He turned out
to be a Mr. Gorton, of Chicago.
39 609

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We went first to a wonderful tropical garden filled with fern
palms and rubber trees, camellias and frisia; and wonderful
tropical birds were singing with all their might. It was like a
little glimpse of heaven or the Garden of Eden. We saw a
curious Jesuit church with wonderful deep wood carvings; the
whole chancel being filled with them, also immense landscapes
made entirely of old Spanish tiles.

W^hen we landed we came with tw^o turns of the small boat.
Where the arches are is a building covered with old blue tiles
and the arches covered a walk, and on each side steps led down
to the water. The gallery was filled with peasant men and
women with the gayest colored handkerchiefs and aprons, caps,
etc. Then off to the left the ship entrance from the landing to
the main street was through three pointed arches decorated
with the Portuguese coat of arms, making a very picturesque
effect from the water.

We drove up to Mrs. Brown's where Laura and I had lunch
in 1906 and they told us they were not prepared and could not
give us any lunch, but they recommended us to another place
in the town and we got an omelette and some little birds and
fruit. Most of the ship people came there.

An elderly woman at Pierpont Morgan's table, who seems
to keep them all amused, judging by the shouts of laughter
after her speeches, is a Miss De Puyster Carey. These are all
the people we have learned to know by name. Friday I will
tell you about our day in Madeira. Now I am tired and will
go out on deck.

Madeira, February 25th, 1910.

Such a heavenly day as we had yesterday. The sun was

hot and strong and the air just cool enough to temper it. We

landed at Madeira in steam launches and took the bullock

carts up to the railroad station and found a train just starting.

We went through banana groves and palms and fern palms,

and saw exquisite gardens with giant trumpet flower vines in

full bloom; also bougainvillea in great masses, wall flowers,

acacia trees in full bloom, and every one was charmed.

610

EN ROUTE

I hope sometime to spend a month here in this perfect
chmate. We walked in the gardens of two hotels where there
were fountains and large bushes of white azaleas, and wonder-
ful views of the water, 2000 feet below; then we each got in
hammocks and were carried on narrow paths higher up to the
church for the view, and then to the hotel, where we lunched.

GLORIOUS MADEIRA

Some of the ship's stewards had been sent up to wait on us,

and we ate out of doors with odors of Araby, and the finest

views in the world. And Sam said we would be cold; how I

wish you could all be here with us.

After lunch we sledged down to the town again and then

took a bullock cart up to the Casino and back. Then we sat

down at little tables on the street leading to the water and

611

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

had tea, and it was so gay. Mr. Bodine was with us and we
bought strawberries, which fortunately we did not eat, as the
moment Morton saw us he made us throw them overboard for
fear of typhoid, as there were some cases at one of the hotels
at Madeira.

It is all much gayer than when we were here before, streets
filled with people sitting and walking, parrots and macaws
screaming, new hotels and lovely parks, bastions, flowers and

MADEIRA

sunlight. The contrast with my last sight ot Philadelphia is
too great to admit of description.

When we came on board, the decks were covered with
natives selling all sorts of things, and boys were diving for
money, some climbing way up to the highest deck and diving
from there. Everybody was entranced and hated to leave.

Mr. Morgan has bought birds at both the Azores and here

and has his room full. He has a great aviary, one great cage,

in his home in New York, and just turns them loose in it. I

never see him on deck, only at his meals. One lady at his

table is going to Dalmatia in April, taking only her maid.

Perhaps we shall meet her, but I do not rely upon that.

612

EN ROUTE

Even at night we have the fresh air blowing in our faces
and we dress with port-holes open.

I feel it such a pity that you are all breathing that foul
Philadelphia air when you might be here. Will write after
Gibraltar telling our experiences there. This ship is so high
out of the water that it is amazing it don't roll more, but I
haven't a qualm.

Much love to all and hoping to hear soon. Have written
Morgan Harjes to send Mail to Naples to Thos. Cook & Son.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

On board S. S. "Cedric" Sailing from Gibraltar,
Monday, February 28th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

I should have written yesterday to tell you of our day at
Gilbraltar, but it was so rough that almost as soon as I was up
I had to go back to bed to avoid being actively seasick. About
noon, as soon as we got under the shore of Sardinia, it quieted
down and I got a nice salt bath and dressed, and now they
are going to have a dance on deck, and we land early in the
morning at Naples.

Our day at Gibraltar was quite different from what we
planned. Billy Neilson had told Maria that General Oman
would probably send out a tug for us to take us ashore and
entertain us, so we were ready early, prepared for anything.
The enquiry man told me there was a note for me, and I said
"yes, I expected it" but he couldn't find it. Then he said he
had sent it to our state room by a steward, but not one of the
stewards would acknowledge having received it and no one
could find it.

In the meantime, we had to get ashore by the last tug or
not at all. We had been invited by Judge Saunders to go on a
special tug to Algeciras for lunch, so we went over to the dock
and there I tried to get Dr. Oman's house, as we were told
there was no General Oman, but it was impossible to get
any answer and as we did not know who had written the note,

613

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

we went off at 12.30 for Algcciras and found a wonderful
Spanish Hotel, built with courts and gardens, and such a
view of the Rock! We had a perfect lunch. It was all like
fairyland. I would have liked to stay a month.

The English women were all in linen suits. When I came
back, through the town of Gibraltar, the Alameda, and out to
Europa Point, I bought my usual orange basket at the mar-
ket, where Laura will remember the delicious dates we got.
I hope we may find some letters at Naples, though I doubt
it, as you probably did not write at once on your return.

I have mv packing to do, so with much love to you all.

Afi^y., M. D. R.

P. S. — I will write from Naples.

ITALY

Imperial Hotel,
Sorrento, Saturday, March 5, 1910.
Dear Frank,

I hope you will remember this is our 37th wedding anni-
versary!

We arrived here last night quite worn out — but after our
long drive — it was delightful to arrive at a warm, comfortable
hotel, and have a delicious dinner and a big fine room, and this
morning to look out on one of the most wonderful views in
the world, the water without a ripple, like glass, and the
mountains covered with snow. It was impossible to tell their
summits from the clouds.

To-day we have spent strolling about in the hot sun and

went over to the Vittoria Hotel for afternoon tea, sat out of

doors in the sun, not a scrap of wind, and growing about us

forget-me-nots, pansies, frisia, cowslips, banana and palm and

pepper trees, acacia, camellias and oranges and lemons; then

on the tiled terrace hanging over the sea, far up above the

Marina or landing. It is certainly a heaven on earth, it is

impossible to imagine greater beauty and we are wonderfully

favored, so far, in having nothing but brilliant sunshine, and

hoping for a perfect day to-morrow to go on to Amalfi and

Ravello.

We landed last Tuesday morning. Fortunately, I had

615

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

telegraphed for rooms and the n"ian who met us at the dock
had my name on his Hst.

To my surprise, they have built stone docks at Naples
since we were here last, and we docked at once without trouble.
As soon as we had lunch (and the food tasted like ambrosia
after that on the ship) we took cabs and went to the museum
and spent an hour; then up to San Martino which was as

SOLFATARA

lovely as ever, and then up in a lift to the Berlolini Hotel
where we had tea, sitting on a terrace and having a glorious
view and sunset, with singing and playing by native musicians
in costume. Then w^e came back and down to the Grand Hotel
again and had a perfect dinner.

The next day we spent the morning in Naples over our
trunks and resting and took lunch early and went in a landau,
for the whole afternoon, out through the new grotto, through
the hill of Posilipo, over to Solfatara, Pozzuoli, where we
went to see the Amphitheatre, a splendid ruin, with a piece

6i6

ITALY

of the Appian way leading up to it, and to the Lerapeum, a
perfectly beautiful ruin half under water, which by an erup-
tion of Solfatara, was let down under the water and when the
Monte Novo was created by an earthquake hundreds of years
after, it was raised up again, but has sunk a metre in the last
hundred years.

Then we went on to Baise and returned by Lake Avernus
and Grotto of the Cumaean Sybil, Lake Lucrinus and the Fal-
nernian hill and the hot baths of Nero. En route among other

rii;-; amphitheatre, pozzuo.,!
wonderful views was that of Nisida, a promontory almost
detached from the main land, and a glorious sunset all the
way back, and through the Grotto Antico where the Roman
legions marched through, and all unchanged.

Each thing we see is more beautiful than the other, and
so it goes on. I had written from Gibraltar to Morgan Harjes
to send our mail to Thos. Cook & Son, Naples, but we did not
get any mail there. I took Cook tickets for the round trip to
La Cava and return by train to Naples, and hope to get to
Rome the same day. The utter silence here is such a rest for
the nerves one cannot realize it at first. We sleep under mos-
quito nets, and that alone makes it seem like summer.

617

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I wonder what you are all doing, and think of you hived
up in the library, all smoking and with black snow outside,
and wish you were here, where you could be out in this wonder-
ful air all day, smelling oranges and flowers, and the birds
singing all the time.

Hoping to get letters forwarded from Naples.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

Hotel & Pension Palumbo,
Ravello, Tuesday, March 8, 1910.
Dear Frank,

If I only had words to describe the beauty around me; it
is indescribable. The sea is like glass and this rocky coast
stands out in wonderful sharp lines; way beyond stretch snow
capped mountains. We are looking at it from the terrace of
the hotel, iioo feet above the water. These lines are cut by
cypresses and pines, like dark green velvet, and the old towers
of the palaces are mostly ruins.

There were thirty-five thousand people in this town once,
and Amalfi was a great city trading all over the world. This
house was the Bishop's Palace, and the Dependance was the
property of the Confalone family and above is the Palazzo
delli Afflitili, and both of them iioo years old. A Mr. Reid
many years ago bought the Palazzo Rufolo just below this
and has turned it into a Garden of Eden.

He and his wife did a great deal to elevate the people
around here, but both are now dead, and while the nephew.
Sir James Lacaito, keeps up the place, he is a busy man in
England, and only comes here for the month of April.

The influence of the Saracens is felt here in the architec-
ture, and there are wonderful pulpits in the churches, of mosaic
and twisted columns. Wherever they dig, they find treasures.

We sit in the morning on this terrace, which has a stone

bench tiled all around the edge, and it is high up above the

surrounding ground, and there are lovely daffodils and violets

and primroses all about us, and over our heads rose vines with

618

ITALY

big yellow roses and ivy everywhere. Things are just budding
out; deciduous trees, etc., and grapevines; but there is so
much green and so many flowers that one doesn't miss them.
We are going to walk to the Cembrone, a sort of promon-
tory facing up the valley towards the mountains, with a
wonderful view. It is just the rest I want. It is absolutely

quiet.

come

take 1

read.

room

time,

dress

A BIT IN RAVELLO

The air is perfect and the eye is satisfied. You must
here sometime with me.

is quite gay at lunch time, when people drive up and
unch here. In the evening, we sit around a table and

They have fires here in my room and in the dining

and we are quite comfortable. It is very cold at bed

but in the morning we have the hot sun and a fire and

comfortably. I can't bear to think of leaving, but I

619

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

suppose we will go on Saturday or Sunday, as direct to Rome
as possible.

We have our first mail, your letter of February 17th and
postal of 1 8th. You did not say a word about who used the
Opera box that Tuesday night. We think of you always,
wishing you could share our pleasure.

We must get ofi", so good-bye, with much love and hoping
to hear from you at Rome.

Affly., M. D. R.

P. S. — You have the itinerary, which tells you as nearly
as possible w^here we will be.

Grand Hotel, Naples,
March 12th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

This is my birthday and I am sure you have thought of it.*
We left Ravello at nine this morning in just the same per-
fect weather we have had continuously — warm and lovely,

AMALFl

and drove down almost to Amalfi, then turned off to La Cava,
arriving there at 12.45 and took the train to Naples.

*Her sixty-fourth birthday!

620

ITALY

Our carriage was almost full of men and I soon gained
from their talk that they had been off on some enterprise.
Two young engineers and two Italians. The young men were
Germans and spoke Italian and English as well and helped
us install our packages.

We got here and found a comfortable room; then as it was
my birthday we celebrated it by tea at Bertolini's. So we
drove up and then went up in the lift and on to the Terrace,
and once more had that wonderful view of the Bay of Naples.
We couldn't get in to the Palace Hotel at Rome and Mrs.
Johnson was good enough to get, through the Proprietor,
rooms for us at the Windsor. Rome is terribly crowded, so
we are thankful to be assured of a roof over our heads to-morrow
night.

I am so dead tired I must go to bed, but I didn't want to
go without letting you know of our safe arrival here. We
have your letters (two mails) and Laura's written a few days
after we left. Am glad you enjoyed the Opera.

How I wish I could bring back the cook; there is never
taste or smell of grease about the cooking, and it is so dainty
and digestible! We have much to learn at home. I shall not
do much sightseeing in Rome. I will let you know as soon as
we are settled.

With much love to all, and hoping Cliif and Sam will write
sometimes to me. (My letters are for them as well as you).

Affectionately- M. D. R.

Palace Hotel, Rome,

Tuesday, March 15, 1910.
Dear Frank,

Since I wrote you from Naples on the eve of the 12th, we

have your letters telling of your knowledge of our arrival at

Naples, etc. I wrote Maj. Landis that we would be at the

Windsor Hotel just below here, but on our arrival, we found

the Porter from the Palace Hotel, saying they were going to

take us in here, for which we were glad. I have had a slight

621

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

bilious attack so did not go out to-day. Maj. Landis and his
wife are coming to call at 6.30. He writes he had a jolly letter
from Col. Shore and enclosed a note to me, in which I am
commanded to come to India without delay, written in Shore's
usual joking way.

We may go one night to the Opera to hear "Iris" with
Mascagni leading. Sunday afternoon on our arrival, we drove
to the Janiculum and through the Villa Borghese grounds and
the Pincian. The weather was perfect and I thought it best
to utilize it, and fortunately, as it has been overcast to-day
and yesterday,

Rome, Wednesday, March 16, 1910.

The cab drivers have been on a strike for two days and it
is difficult to get cabs. This p. m. we are going to the Pan-
theon and Santa Maria della Pace to see Raphael's Sybils,
and perhaps to the Capitol Museum. We have just come back
from the rag fair where we went with the Johnsons, and met
a Mr. Graham, who has lived here for years.

He sent us round the corner to the Palace of Prince Mas-
simo, where there is a chapel that is opened only once a year.
We went up a narrow staircase and got into a frightful crowd
of peasants and priests, and all sorts of people, and had to
come down without seeing it, as we were afraid we would be
shut in for hours.

I should have told you first that Reynolds Landis and his
wife called yesterday at 6.30 p. m. and we were waiting in
the smoking room for them. I had written from Naples Satur-
day, and they only got my letter Monday evening, and they
expressed great regret that they had not got it in time, as their
day at home was Monday afternoon. We are to dine with
them Sunday evening, and they are to lunch with us at the
Aventine Hill on Friday if pleasant, if not, on Saturday, as
that is one of the things to do. They were most friendly and
she is quite pretty.

He is trying to carry out Col. Shore's instructions to make

622

ITALY

me cable you that I am going to India and for you to come
and join us. I told him that it was of no use, that you would
never forgive me, and that I was not prepared financially, etc.
Lina will be much disappointed, but I cannot do otherwise.

To-day we had a short shower, with hail, but when I went
out at eleven, it was like summer. I bought a great bunch of
white gilly flowers for 20 cents, the only time I have indulged,
but they are so tempting. To-morrow we have arranged to
go out on the Appian way and to St. Paul's Basilica and the
catacombs. A week is so ridiculously short a time to be here
one does not know what to do.

My letters have to be for all, for I do not have time to
write each one, but I think of you all and wish you could
enjoy what I am having here, beautiful out of doors.

With much love to you all.

Affiy., M. D. R.

Palace Hotel, Rome,

March 20, 1910.
Dear Mr. Rosengarten,

I have thought many times of writing to you, but I have
not had time hardly to say my prayers. Every moment since
we landed in Naples has been full of delightful experiences and
filled to overflowing; and the day at Ponta Delgada, the day
at Madeira and the one at Gibraltar and Algeciras were de-
lightful; especially the day we spent at Madeira, a dream of a
place. Mrs. Rosengarten has written you so fully of our trip
that you will not want to hear it again.

I only want to tell you how perfectly appreciative I am
of all your kindnesses to me, and how grateful I am you have
made such a wonderful experience possible for me. This has
been a hard week for me because I have felt I must see every-
thing of importance.

I have been able to see things intelligently with a Prof.
Renaud, a bright, clever man, with a marvelous fund of in-
formation, who lectures on all the important things of Ancient

623

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Rome, on the spot, but some of the galleries and churches I
have visited alone. Mrs. R. has done very little sightseeing.
She is better than when she left home but seems utterly ex-
hausted by every little thing that she attempts to do, even
in the quiet of Ravello she would be worn out by even a little
walk.

I have pleaded with her to give up Dalmatia, urging upon
her the importance of going home strong and well, and have
tried to persuade her to spend the three weeks she would
spend in Dalmatia, at Nauheim, or some such place and get
well. Her digestion is so easily disturbed, as you know, at
all times, and it seems to me very foolish to go to a place where
the hotels are said to be impossible. I wish you were here to
insist upon rest, and not a month of hard travel, and perhaps
discomfort. Do not think Mrs. Rosengarten is ill, but she
evidently cannot stand any fatigue.

I am wild about Rome, it is so full of interest and beauty.
We are to dine to-night with Major and Mrs. Landis. I went
this morning to the service at St. Peter's, but it was disap-
pointing.

With much love and deep gratitude.

Aff., Maria.

Grand Hotel (Brufani),
Perugia, March 23rd, 1910.
Dear Frank,

I have so much to tell and am so far in arrears that I
hardly know how to begin. We left Rome on Tuesday. I
found the excitement of people and sightseeing very fatiguing,
I thought it best to keep to my original program. Although
we were only eight days in Rome, we saw most of the really
important sights and worked hard.

I wrote you a few days after our arrival about the Landis's

calling. I found him quite unchanged and admired his wife

very much. They went to lunch with us on the Aventine on

Friday, i8th, at a popular restaurant where there is a fine

624

ITALY

view. We met Mr. Graham, of Pittsburgh, who has a lovely
home in Rome; is also an intimate friend of the Landis's. He
was asked to meet us at the Landis's for dinner Sunday night.
He then decided to have us to tea on Monday afternoon, so
we had plenty to do. We went to the Landis's Sunday night
for dinner and there met Baron d'Isola (who talked Italian
to me), and Mr. Ezekiel, the sculptor, who has had his studio
for so many years in the Baths of Diocletian, and must now
get out of it. He has the loveliest face and is very interesting
lived for many years at the Villa d'Este with Cardinal d'Este

PERUGIA AND HOTEL BRUFANI

and Queen Mother, and the King and Queen are great friends
with him.

A pretty Miss Walker (who is staying with the Landis's),
and Mr. Graham made up the party. The conversation was
always interesting and the Landis's said they were so pleased
to be able to entertain one of the Rosengarten family for the
first time, and they professed the greatest admiration for Joe
and Fanny and wish they could see them.

They live in the apartment formerly occupied by the De

Castros, and have a fine view from their balconies.
40 625

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

They have many interesting and beautiful vases in metal
inlaid, which they brought from the Philippines. Monday
afternoon we went to Mr. Graham's apartment, which is a
veritable museum, with wonderful Chinese things he got in
Pekin. Mrs. Ethelbert Nevin poured tea at one end of the
dining room, and Mrs. Bastienelli at the other.

I also met a Judge Cochran, now of St. Louis, whose father
was Judge C. of Pittsburgh, and who said he used to play
with me as a very small child, and knew father and Clifford
well. The Browns (Mrs. Fox's brother) were also there and
some young Italians and the Baron d'Isola, who sat by me

-.*^-K^3-^-S

THE CONVENT OF ST. FRANCIS, ASSISI

at Landis's dinner. The Johnsons and Walkers went with us,
and we felt very gay and had a hard time getting packed that
night to leave early on the next morning, but we got off all
right Tuesday morning and made the acquaintance almost at
once of Miss Sergeant, of New Haven. You remember we
met her brother at the Country Club when Freddie Ford
introduced him.

We all got off at Assisi at 2 p. m., and stayed over night
and we came on in a carriage to Perugia. I wish I could de-
scribe the beauty of that sunset from our windows, looking
over the Umbrian Plain, seeing Assisi, Spello and Spoleto,

with a background of snow mountains. We spent Tuesday

626

ITALY

and Wednesday nights there going over the old sights, and
are enjoying the Hotel Brufani, where we have front windows
that look dowii on the Etruscan gate in the old wall. This
afternoon we take the two o'clock train to Florence and go to
the Anglo-American Hotel.

We are all going tomorrow afternoon at five p. ai. to drive
out to the country to see some procession in costume, some-
thing peculiar to Florence and Good Friday. We found your
letter and Laura's, saying you had not heard anything on
March I2th, which seems very strange. We have written
constantly. I cannot stop to tell you lots of little things for
this must be posted, so I will say good night.

Hoping you are all well and happy.

With much love to all.

Yours Aff., M. D. R.

Anglo-American Hotel,

Florence, March 27th, 1910.

Easter Sunday.
Dear Frank:

We got here Thursday about dusk and were comfortably
settled in quiet rooms on the court. As Florence streets are
very noisy, I am very glad of this. We arranged to join friends
in an excursion to Grassina, a small village about ten miles
in the country to see a church procession after dark, Good
Friday. So we took a substantial five o'clock tea and started
and had a beautiful drive, which was unfortunately marred
by the dust, which was excessive owing to the prolonged
drought.

It is an old custom to have a procession on Good Friday

of Roman soldiers and priests bearing a life-sized figure of

Christ on a sort of Catafalque, followed by children dressed

in white, and then a lot of mourning women in black around

a statue of the Virgin. There were crowds of carriages and

automobiles in a piazza on the village street where the village

fair was going on, so we went back up the road on the hillside

where we could see the church.

627

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

About seven, the moon rose back of the hills just in the
right place, and soon the torchlight procession started out
from the church, curving along the hill and descending to-
wards us; a very good band playing very solemn music and
the priests chanting at intervals. It was really very impressive
in the dark, and against that background.

Your last letters came yesterday; also one from Lina. I have
had a letter from Countess Adelmann inviting us there. I am

MADONNA DELLA SEDIA, RAPHAEL

writing her that I cannot tell so long ahead. We are almost a
week behind our Itinerary, as we could not possibly go faster.
It seems such a long time before you got our letters when
they were posted at the earliest opportunity and we have
written steadily. I have all your letters although you did
not put numbers on all of them. They come in clusters.
Last one is dated March 14th and postal card iSth. I hope
it will be less expensive in Dalmatia.

628

ITALY

I find very little time to write to anyone but you. We
shall leave here for Bologna Tuesday afternoon probably and

THE GALLERY OF THE UFFIZI. FLORENCE

INTERIOR OF SANTA CROCK, FLORENCE

go by Ravenna and Ferrara to Venice, getting there Sunday

or Monday next.

With much love to you all and constantly wishing you were

with us. Affectionately, M. D. R.

629

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

Byron Palace Hotel,
Ravenna, March 30th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

Here we are in old Ravenna, having had an adventurous
day yesterday. Last Sunday, as everything was closed, we

GARDEN OF THE HOTEL BYRON, RAVENNA

went to call on Miss Reeder Macaulay in the afternoon, after

going to the Cathedral in the morning. No one was at home,

but I got a very nice note from Miss Macaulay saying they

were sorry to miss me and if they could have known I was

coming, could as well as not have been at home.

Monday we spent sightseeing. Tuesday afternoon we

took the 3.30 train by Faurze here. We had to change twice

630

ITALY

and after dark and a very nice young Naval Officer (Italian)
was very polite, said he was coming here, etc., and made him-
self very useful.

Arriving at 9.30 we went to bed as soon as we were settled,
and this morning started out sightseeing, and did not see him

THE TOMB OF DANTE, RAVENNA

again, but found a nice note saying he had been obliged to
return to Florence. He had just returned from Pekin where
he had been attached to the Italian Legation in China; said
he knew many Americans there and seemed to have read
many of our books.

I am very much impressed with Ravenna; not with its

631

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

outward appearance, but with the wonderful early Christian
relics, sarcophagi and mosaics, the churches of San Vitale
and San Apollonia date from 300 and 500 A. D. The tomb
of Galla Placidia was near the former. There were three
wonderful enormous archaic sarcophagi, and the walls and
vaulting and dome of exquisite mosaic, and in the church a
great altar of translucent alabaster.

This hotel was the Palazzo Rasponi and Byron lived here
in 1819. At present the heater is out of commission and the
great barnlike rooms are cold as charity. Our room opens on a
second-floor terrace, and as it is raining to-night, we must go
out on this terrace to get to bed. There is a beautiful garden,
but it turned so cold to-day we could not stay there.

We have been talking with a very interesting mother and
daughter (Dutch) who are great travellers, and have been in
America. They went all over, from Mexico to Canada, in
three months and seem not to have forgotten anything they
saw, and to have been much impressed with our country-
They advise us to see Ferrara during the day and go on to
Padua, as the hotel is better at Padua and the distances are
very short, so we shall be in Venice by Friday evening, April
1st, a few days behind our itinerary.

I think it doesn't matter, however, as it may be rather
cold. It must be beautiful here in Ravenna in warm weather,
the garden is so lovely and the terrace, but there is a sensa-
tion of desolation about the place, and one would not want to
stay long unless with a gay party. We will not get your letters
until next Saturday, when I hope we shall find a large mail.

I am looking forward to loafing in Venice, and will write
you from there.

With much love for you all.

Your affectionate, M. D. R.

632

ITALY

Hotel De L'Europe, Venice,

April 4th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

I found a letter from you dated March 22nd when I stopped
at Cook's this a. ai. I have written you twice a week and
sometimes oftener, and you can hardly expect more. I must
sometimes rest after being out all day.

I wrote you Wednesday night, and we left Ravenna the

CHAPEL AND ALTAR OF ST. ANTHONY, PADUA

next morning in a raging cold storm, which developed into
snow, as we got to Ferrara, where we lunched and drove
around, seeing first the old Castello with a moat, a fortified
castle of the Este family, and also saw some other palaces and
a cathedral, with fine facade; but it was so cold and such a
fearful wind, that we got back to the station as soon as pos-
sible, where we found a stove in the Trattoria and drank tea
to get warm. They call this storm a burrasca (bourasque in
French) and it is the worst I was ever out in. Glad indeed
we were to get to a warm, modem hotel at Padua, where

633

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

to our astonishment, a huge black porter met us with the
omnibus.

A good night's sleep and an excellent dinner put us in shape
for seeing Padua the next morning. There we admired the
Palazzo del Ragione, beautiful outside and inside, with a
wonderful hall, with frescoes, and the Church of St. Anthony
of Padua, which was full of superb tombs and pulpits and bas
reliefs by Donatello. An hour's ride in the afternoon brought

THE FOUNTAIN AND PIGEONS, ST. MARK'S SQUARE, VENICE

us to Venice, and we found two nice single rooms with heat and
electric light and fine linen sheets and towels.

We go every afternoon late to see the sun set on the facade
of St. Mark's.

Why do you not come over to bring us home.^ Meet us
in Vienna. With much love.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

Hotel Stephanie,
Abbazia, April loth, 1910.
Dear Frank:

I wish you could see this beautiful place; beautiful al-
though the Bora is blowing and the sun obscured. The train
from Trieste stopped away back in the mountains, and we
had to get out and take a trolley down hill to the town. It
reminds me of Hombourg, in the character of the houses, but
there is much more tropical and glossy foliage. It is very
steep, the houses rising one behind the other out of thick
foliage. There is a lovely walk all along the rocky coast,
where there are no ugly wooden things to interfere with the
beauty of nature.

We are at an enormous hotel, well furnished, but with no
heat except in the smoking room, where we are seated at
present. We had dinner in a large restaurant belonging to
this hotel last night, quite gay with officers and well dressed
women, and the cooking was excellent. We had things that
looked like lobsters, only about six inches long, a pale pink,
very delicate, and a delicious dessert, not like anything I ever
had. We are going to take our tea at the Kursaal where the
Gypsy band is to play. If the weather is all right, we shall
take an early boat to Fiume and change to the 11 a. m. boat
for Zara.

We thought it best to spend Sunday here rather than at
Fiume, where there is really nothing to see, and I never saw
a, more beautiful place to stay in if one had a party. Of

635

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

course, it is impossible to say on just what day we will be at
a certain place, but I will let you know as I go along.

I find I cannot draw any money on my letter of credit
after Fiume until Buda Pesth, so I may draw some more
money, as it will do in Vienna and I would rather have too
much Austrian money than to be stranded at Sarajevo or
Agram without any money, so I will probably draw £40.

Here they speak only German, except an Egyptian who
speaks English. He is the second colored person we have
seen on our trip. I hope to get a good mail at Fiume tomorrow,

ABBAZIA, DALMATIA

and have ordered the next mail sent to Ragusa. I often wish
you could be with us but suppose you would be tired out with
the detail of travel.

Much love for all of you. Affly., M. D. R.

Dalmatia, Trau near Spalato,

April 15th, 1910.
Dear Boys:

We are enjoying all this beautiful scenery and architec-
ture, and especially the people in their wonderful costumes.

636

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

The men are giants. It is uncommon to meet a short man and
an ordinary thing to see men from 6 ft. 4 inches to 6 ft. 7 or
8 inches. Tell Felix he would be a person of ordinary height.
They are all handsome and look like Romans. We hope to
get letters at Ragusa. Nothing since Venice.

Aifly., M. D. R.

Grand Hotel Bellevue,
Spalato, April 15th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

We left Fiume at eleven on Monday morning, April nth,
the first really clear weather for days and sailed off down the

TRAU

Dalmatian coast. We had a nice table d'hote luncheon and
when we came up on deck, the view made us fairly gasp for
breath. The Velebit range was on our left, the most pic-
turesque mountains I ever saw, the softest grey, and above,
the snow looked like clouds. I haven't a vocabulary to de-
scribe them.

At about five we reached Zara, landing at a stone pier,
jutting out from a long quay, where a line of modem buildings
stretched along a promenade. No vehicles in sight, but we
were rejoiced by the sight of wonderful costumes, nurses with

637

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

baby carriages, etc., Austrian officers in beautiful uniforms;
it all looked so gay and bright. We had good rooms and deli-
cious food but no sitting room, which didn't matter, as we
were always too tired to do anything but go to bed.

I don't understand why people have given these hotels
such a bad reputation. When it is cold, of course, the linen
sheets seem damp, but we overcome that by warming them
up with hot water bottles and wearing woolen wrappers.
There are inlaid floors everywhere and good furniture and
excellent beds.

We admired the churches in Zara. San Danato was an

FIUME

early Christian church built with the ruins of a Roman temple
in the crudest way, but very impressive; it is now a museum:
and an old Roman column stands in a square and was used
for a pillory in mediaeval times. We walked around the ram-
part on top of the old walls, and enthused over the Porta
Marina and lovely Roman bits here and there. The next
morning I went out to see the museum and came across the
market, with such a riot of color.

The men wxar embroidered vests with red fringe, and the

638

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

most wonderful little caps, smaller than the English soldiers
wear, and as they are giants, the eflfect is most peculiar. They
have great coats of brown homespun, made all in one piece
like a kimono with a hood, and the women have big sleeveless
coats, which are really stylish.

At eleven we started for Sebenico on another voyage of
four hours and stopped at Zara Vecchio, where Queen Eliza-
beth of Hungary was imprisoned and died. We left behind
the snow clad Velebits, wound our way among many islands,
having an excellent lunch, and getting very friendly with the
Captain, who was very proud of his English. The boat was
named the "Split," Croat for Spalato.

,«1 ^1^

ZARA, CAPITAL OF DALMATIA

Finally we rounded an old Venetian fort with the Lion of
Venice on top, and came into a wonderful harbor, where there
is a Naval training ship. Our hotel, "The Velebit" was also
along the quay, and it was a great pleasure to watch the
middies rowing up and down. There were two fine white
English yachts there, but we saw nothing of the people.

Sebenico in Dalmatia was quite different from Zara, being
on a steep hillside and crowned with two fortresses. The old
town has a magnificent Duomo, the celebrated church all of
stone, inside and outside, and a wagon roof; the doors were

639

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

exquisite, and all the interior details, especially the Bap-
tistery, which was a perfect gem, a. though so dark, it was
difficult to properly see it.

The next morning we took a carriage and drove to the
Falls of Krka. There are several, and it takes two to three
days to see the upper one, so we only saw the lower one. The
drive was over high, grey rocky hills with almost no vegeta-
tion, and it was a surprise when we suddenly saw way below,
the river and green islands fringed with tall slender poplars,

THE WATER FRONT, SEBEXICO, DALMATIA

and a picturesque old stone mill. Small cataracts in every
direction were flowing out and down, and it was only when
we got down below them that we got the real eflfect.

Maria took some photos, which I hope will turn out well.
We ate our lunch on a stone terrace overlooking a farm yard,
where the little donkeys were trudging up and down with
enormous loads on their backs, and their drivers were bright
with color, red caps and wonderful silver buttons in two rows
down their vests. It was a pretty picture.

We were tired, indeed, on our return, but took an early

640

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

dinner and then at six-thirty a train to Spalato, arriving at
Spalato at ten, and as usual, no vehicles, and we had to walk
to our hotel, passing by; the front of Diocletian's Palace, along
the water front, and then we got to bed as soon as possible.
We feared it might rain, so in the morning arranged for an
afternoon drive to Salona and Trau. We spent the forenoon
walking through and around the Roman Palace and the
Duomo, which was either a temple of Jupiter or Diocletian's
Mausoleum, -probably the latter. It is superb, and nowhere

ONE OF THE FIVE CASCADES OF THE KRKA RIVER, NEAR SEBENICO

else can one see such a thing as a city inside of a palace. Of

course, it is only the old town, Spalato and outside there is a

modem city. It is much more of a city than anything we

have seen so far.

Our drive to Salona and Trau was very beautiful but very

fatiguing, partly on account of the high wind, and partly on

account of the difficult walk through the ruins of Salona.

After a visit to the house of Herr Buice, the curator of the

Museum, we saw the ruins of an early Christian Basilica, and
41 641

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

at last we have seen real tombs of the martyrs of the early
Christian church.

A very curious thing is the way in which these magnifi-
cent sarcophagi have been broken into by Goths and Vandals,
and robbers generally, and more curious still the way in which
these mammoth sarcophagi are wedged in all directions and
even piled up on top of each other, in their efforts to get as
near as possible to a martyr's tomb. These things interest
me very much, especially since I have read Fabiola. One
wonders how such monstrous things could have been made at

AT CLISSA

all, and above all, at the superb carvings; they all make our
modern tombs look absolutely without merit of any kind.

Maria and I drove alone to-day up to Clissa, a high barren
rock away up in the mountains, crowned by an old Venetian
castle fort, with superb views of the coast. A slight haze pre-
vented our seeing as far as we might otherwise.

I forgot to say that after we had gone through a mass of

ruins at Salona, we took the carriage again and went on to

Trau, a perfect mediaeval town on an island, beyond the seven

castelli, which extend along the coast. It is a walled town with

the Venetian lions over its gates, and with the most perfect

642

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

cathedral one can imagine. It differs from others in having an
open porch or vestibule to protect its wonderful carvings
from weather.

At one end of the Island is the old Venetian Fort of Camer-
lango, most beautiful. The views back from Trau were more
beautiful than I can describe, exquisite soft grey back of the
green; and all the way lovely hedges of hawthorn and purple
and white flowers and blue bachelor buttons. The vine and
fig trees are just leafing out, and the sights and sweet smells
were delightful.

Unfortunately, one cannot get away from here except at
night, so we are leaving to-night on a Hungarian Croatian boat
for Ragusa, where we are all going to rest and refresh our-
selves. There are few English speaking people to be met; a
family of three, whose names I do not know, but no doubt we
shall meet some at Ragusa, where we also hope to get letters.

I must stop to go to dinner, so hoping you will all have the
patience to read this, with love to all.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

P. S.^ — ^You would perhaps be interested to know, that on
our drive home, after leaving the source of the Jader, a typical
Dalmatian river, which flows out of the face of an immensely
high cliff, and makes a picturesque descent in many water-
falls, we found soldiers stationed at different points, shooting
at an imaginary enemy, and others hiding all the way back,
and some marching, as if reserve forces.

Grand Hotel Imperial,
Ragusa, Sunday, April 17th, 1910.
Dear Frank:

Here we are at last in beautiful Ragusa, and it is even
more perfect than I expected! We came by night boat from
Spalato, and had a very bad night. I awoke at six, an hour
before we were due to arrive, and in that time, managed to
be very ill, and we could not get a comfortable room until the
late afternoon.

643

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I had been trying for two weeks to take care of myself, so
stayed in bed this a. m. We have a balcony, and such a view
from it, down the coast! great promontories jutting out into
the sea; then the old town wall climbing steeply up, with
great round towers, all ivy covered; then such flowers, Banksia
roses, oleanders, mimosa and arbors everywhere covered with
wistaria, palms and pines.

Maria went out to see the country people, who come in
on Sunday dressed in their best costumes, which have a great

THE DALMATIAN COAST

deal of gold embroidery and tissue. All still are giants, and

here wear a fez or red turban and baggy trousers. One feels

as if it must be an Opera Bouife it is all so unreal. Their

belts are stuck full of knives and pistols, but fierce as they

look, they all seem very pleasant and good natured.

I am writing in the reading room, which has a balcony

with tables and chairs where we take tea. It overhangs the

hotel garden, and past it flows the life of the city though we

are outside the walls. We walk down this street and come to

a little Piazza called the Brisalje, which looks like a scene set

644

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

for one of Hammersteln's Operas, In the middle a beautiful
statue, a cafe on the left where all sorts of people are drinking.
The sea makes the background, coming in between two great
round towers on high rocks. The old moat, has now been
turned into a garden, and the old drawbridge into a modem
bridge.

This is the first hotel we have found in Dalmatia which
has a reading room, and it is such a comfort. We have been

VIEW OF RAGUSA FROM LACROMA

talking with some Germans we had noticed at Spalato and
on the boat. They live at Hamburg and know the Herzs,
and lived in New York as young people, immediately after
the Civil War. He says two of the Herzs were in New York.
Then there is an interesting couple from Boston, who came
over on the Cedric, by the name of Deland. He is a lawyer
and knows Frank Miles Day, whom I wrote you I met at
Florence.

All these men come in every day and take five o'clock tea
with their wives, and it is so cosy and nice. A young Russian

645

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

has just been playing the piano so beautifully, but unfortu-
nately, the piano is very bad. We sit at a long table and three
nice Boston women sit on our left, and two English women
opposite, and we get a great deal of information from them.
They are going to do just the same trip I have planned.

You must not worry about us. We are having luxury,
and there are no privations. They say the hotel at Cettinje
is excellent. The only unpleasant thing is the sail down this
coast until we turn into the Bocche de Cattaro. The sail up
the Bocche and the drive up to Cettinje are said to be abso-
lutely beautiful. We shall drive with horses and carriages and
not go in the public auto.

I have just found out that the Boston Mr. Deland has a
brother-in-law, Frank Chandler, architect, so I asked if he
was related to Peleg Chandler, and he is a nephew. The Ham-
burg man is named Volckens, and he is still in business in
New York and goes over every year. They are all so friendly
and nice. I only wish you were along, you would enjoy these
people we meet. I will send this, although I could go on for-
ever.

Do tell the boys to write. Much love.

AfBy., M. D. R.

P. S. — I get few letters and don't know where they are
held up.

Grand Hotel Imperial, Ragusa,

April 22nd, 1910.
Dear Frank,

Only a line to tell you we are leaving here to-morrow morn-
ing for Mostar en route for Sarajevo. The Volckens have
just returned from both places and are so enthusiastic about
them and say the Hotels are excellent. We had a nice party
of four carriages up to Cettinje in Montenegro so we were
never alone. The two English old maids, one a Miss Thack-
eray, niece of Wm. M, and the Hendersons, who know David
Bispham and who are urging us to come to London.

646

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

There is no doubt that it is the most wonderful drive in
the world and although it climbs 2000 ft. in zigzag you think
you are almost on a level, it is so perfectly graded, and when
near Cettinje we made a sharp turn and the most gorgeous
view burst upon us, the Albanian Mts., blue as indigo, and
Lake Scutari, in Albania, and back of all one high snow-capped

W^^^^^^^^^^^'^^^^'^^^^^^'^^

CETTINGE, CAPITAL OF MONTENEGRO

peak, before we descended upon the sea of stone called Monte-
negro. The two English women are going with us to-morrow,
so we shall not be isolated.

I must pack to-night and get to bed early as we are off be-
fore nine. Tell Laura I have no time to write. With much
love to you all.

Affectionately, M. D. R.

Mostar, Sat. April 23rd, 1910.
Dear F,

We left Ragusa with great regret this morning. It is ab-
solutely beautiful and interesting.

Mostar is a Turkish town and has the Narenta river rush-

647

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

MOSTAR

ing through with very picturesque banks and a wonderful
bridge. Full of Mosques and Turks. We go on to Jablanica
to-morrow afternoon and then to Sarajevo. Am travelling too
fast to write letters except to Frank. Much love.

M. D. R.

Hotel Europe, Sarajevo,
Monday, April 25th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

Your last letter was an old one of Mar. 30th, forwarded
from Fiume to Ragusa and repeating other letters. We did
not have any mail sent to these out of the way places so will
get nothing until Vienna.

We left Ragusa on Saturday morning with the two Eng-
lish ladies, one of whom is Miss Thackeray, whose father was
first cousin to the great novelist.

The night before we had a great leave-taking of the Hen-
dersons, the English couple, who were going to Albajea and

648

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

BETWEEN MOSTAR AXD JAYCE, IIERZEGUVIXA

the Volckens who had just returned from this trip of Mostar
and Sarajevo, and were most enthusiastic about it and invited
us to Hamburg. The Hendersons begged us to come to London
before saihng and promised to take us everywhere in their
motor and to take us to all the best plays, &c., &c.

We hated to leave Ragusa and the Hendersons but were
delighted with the railway ride on a rack and pinion road over
the Karst and came down into a beautiful green valley upon
the town of Mostar, most picturesquely located on the rush-
ing and foaming Narenta River.

The banks are curiously rough and ragged and in the centre
of the town is the Roinerbrucke, a single span of stone point-
ing up in the middle. With lovely mountains in the back-
ground and many minarets and tall poplar trees you may
imagine how beautiful it was. Our hotel was on the river bank
at the end of a bridge from which there was an entrancing
view and a constant and bewildering procession of costumes.

649

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We had now got to our first Mohammedan town and saw
veiled women in trousers and unveiled women dressed in the
ordinary European way except that the dress ended in trousers
instead of a skirt. The next morning being Sunday we got
out soon after nine to see the Austrian officers and soldiers
go to the Catholic church. We sat down on a stone wall a
little in front of the church and heard the brass band play
the hymns and in the meantime the peasant men and women
were arriving from the country bedecked in lace veils and
flowers and great white woolen overcoats embroidered and
which they had caught up behind and let down as they got
near the church. Some of the men wore red turbans and we
cannot tell them from the Mohammedans.

It seemed so strange to see the middle class women wear-
ing trousers and I have never dreamed of so many costumes,
making an unforgettable picture. It was very hot and we
were glad to find the tables set outside back of the hotel and
reserved one for lunch. In the meantime officers and their
families began to arrive and then the brass band came up and
saluted and then gave a regular concert with printed pro-
grams, so we enjoyed the music and saw the elite of Mostar
society.

Maria went with some Germans the night before to a
Turkish cafe, where there was music and then to see the bridge
by moonlight, Sunday afternoon the English ladies decided
to go on to Jablanica to spend the night so we did the same
and had a wonderful ride through the famous "Gorge of the
Narenta," which is one of the three finest in Europe. The
day was perfect so we got the outlines of the Mountains
clearly and arrived at Jablanica about five to find a Govern-
ment Inn in a lovely garden on the river and had tea in the
garden with nightingales singing. It is a place where men
come for fishing and hunting. The nightingales sang all night
but I do not think they compare with our robins.

We had rather an uncomfortable breakfast and were ready

to come on here, crossing the border between Herzegovina and

650

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

Bosnia and seeing Turks. One old beast of a Turk got on the
train with two women with black veils and old calico dresses.
At every station we saw new costumes until we were quite
bewildered.

We crossed over a high mountain range with snow very-
near and the conductor took us forward to see how the engine
worked to catch the rail — the grade was very steep. It was
a wonderful ride.

We reached Sarajevo at six and found it quite large and
up to date. The hotel pretends to be modem but is very
different from ours. The town lies on both sides of a river
with numerous bridges and many mosques, and looks a little
like Florence. The dining saloon was quite gay, one table
filled with fine-looking officers wearing an infinite variety of
uniforms, green, yellow, scarlet and crimson collars and cuffs.
Some of them had many decorations and now that I am writ-
ing they are singing "Gaudeamus igitur" and banging their
mugs of beer on the tables. A perfect giant sat at the next
table to us — an enormous black-bearded creature who was
considerably over seven feet tall.

Sarajevo, April 26th, 1910.

This morning, after a bad night's sleep, owing to the noise
in the cafe and the street, we went out to the Museum and saw
the costumed figures representing the peasant population of
every part of Bosnia and Croatia.

It seems very strange to be staying in a place that I didn't
know existed and find it quite civilized and almost unaware
of our existence, I don't think there is an English newspaper
in the house. There are automobiles darting about and electric
lights and telephones.

I sent for a doctor this morning to look at my throat and
find he studied with the Dr. Otis of Boston at Vienna, (who
is a friend of the Landis's that I met at Cettinje). He is giving
me a gargle and a water to drink and seems to think it is the
old bronchial trouble — said I had the American pharyngitis.

651

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

I had hoped to get on to Jayce in Bosnia to-morrow after-
noon but will probably wait until Thursday. We were going
to the Bazaar tomorrow morning as it is Market day and the
country people come in from all sides in wonderful costumes,
and I do hope I will not miss it.

SARAJEVO, CAPITAL OF BOSNIA

I do not believe I had better stop at Adelmann's but may
ask Countess A. to come in to Munich to see us. It will all
depend on when we get to Vienna. I am anxious to hear of
Mrs. Whelan's condition, and hope she is recovering.

Much love to you all.

Afltly., M. D. R.

Grand Hotel Hungaria, Budapest,

May 1st, 1910.
Dear Frank,

We sent you a cablegram last evening on our arrival to

let you know that we were here safe and sound, after our

arduous trip back through the Balkans. We climbed over

them at least six or seven times this side of Ragusa.

652

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

We left Jayce (pronounced Yaitze) and the English women
with regret, although we had time to look at it all thoroughly.
The ride from Sarajevo to Jayce on the train was through the
most beautiful country, high mountains, beautiful rivers and
such masses of flowering fruit trees were never seen elsewhere.
They were mostly prune trees. The Turkish villages through
Bosnia were a constant delight as they are more picturesque
than any I have ever seen. White houses with black steep

JAYCE

pitched roofs, lovely gardens and plenty of flowing water, and
lovely minarets.

We were fortunate in just striking their market days and
so seejng crowds of peasants in their finery. Also on nearer
inspection many proved to be walking ragbags. Jayce had a
most beautiful waterfall and lovely mosques. They are making
a park on both sides of the river, both above and below the
Falls. The hotel was very comfortable but we had to go on
and went at seven in a fine big enclosed auto through the
Gorge of the Urbas, arriving at Banjaluka in four hours, going
about 12 miles an hour. It was very warm at B. and walking
through the town was rather uncomfortable, but we were re-
warded by seeing streams of peasants with the gayest of cos-
tumes.

653

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We took a slow train to Agram at 3 but hoped to get there
by dark. Instead It was midnight and we went to the first
hotel in Baedeker, found only a boy up, who couldn't speak
German and only learned that a train went at 7.20. So we got
up at five and had a really dreadful time to get a breakfast
or our bill, &c., &c., but we finally got off and then found that
it was another slow train and that there was a fast train in
the afternoon.

We preferred anything to going back and found our train
would get here two hours earlier than the other. A comfort-
able first class car made it easy as we were able to lie down
and get naps and had the compartment to ourselves. It was
a terribly stormy day, cold rain and we thought how lucky
we were to have had the perfect day for the auto ride and all
our trips through Bosnia for the country was flat and unin-
teresting after Agram.

I forgot to tell you about the queer costumes we saw be-
tween Banjaluka and Agram. The men wore straight up and
down white drawers embroidered in openwork a half yard
deep at the bottom and over that a full jacket of white also
embroidered around the edges and belted in so it stuck out
over the hips, then a Zouave jacket over that. They really
had the most comical appearance you can imagine. But the
most amusing mixture was a priest in a brown robe, like the
Franciscans, with a curled up moustache and a common
black Derby hat. We have seen some funny sights.

We are going out to drive around the town (Budapest)

although it threatens rain, but we cannot lose time and hope

to take the 5 p. m. train tomorrow arriving at Vienna at

9.30. Hoping you will get the cablegram all right, with love

to all.

Affly, M. D. R.

Budapest, Sunday afternoon, May i, 19 10.

We drove about all afternoon through the city then went
up to the "Burg," the Emperor's Schloss high up in the old

654

THE BALKANS AND AUSTRIA

town across the river. There were the loveHest gardens in
front of it and a splendid terrace with statues overlooking the
Danube with the Margareten-Insel. There were rose trees
set in circles of forget-me-nots and the latter such healthy
vivid blue (so unlike the weak sickly-looking plants we have)
and they were in long beds of giant pansies.

Then we went on to the Margareten-Insel, a summer re-
sort with music and restaurants and a band was playing while
we took our tea and strawberries (wild ones with no flavor).
It was too early to see society and when we came back we
went out on the street behind the hotel and found the pave-
ments covered with chairs and tables and fine-looking people.

This street goes along the river and looks up to the Burg.

ROYAL PALACE, BUDAPEST

It is very difficult to get along here as not one sign even in
the Railway Stations is legible, all being in the Hungarian
language. Even in Bosnia and Herzegovina they had the
signs in four languages, but here there is nothing, and if I
did not speak German I could not have got on. I have just
had a telegram that they cannot give us rooms until Tuesday,
so will leave Tuesday morning, 3rd of May, for Vienna.

Mr. Gorton has just written us that he is leaving Vienna
to-day, couldn't stay longer and has spoken to the hotel pro-
prietor about our rooms, and we get there to-morrow night.

655

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

It rained all our stay in Budapest except Sunday after-
noon, when we made all possible use of our time. In Vienna
it rained, poured, all but one day, but we managed to see
about everything and went one night to Grand Opera and an-
other to hear the new comic opera, by the composer of "The
Merry Widow," "The Graf von Luxemburg." The Opera
House is beautiful and "Faust" was delightful.

Vienna is a charming place and so gay. It is still raining
and bitterly cold. Mrs. R. has of course written you of her
plans. We shall hope for better weather at Sigmaringen. It
W'Ould be so nice if you were here for this part of the "tour,"
which you would like. You never would have gone through
the other part.

With love for the family.

Affectionately and gratefully, Maria.

EN ROUTE

Hotel Bristol, Vienna,

Thurs., May 4th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

We came here Monday in a pouring rain and in the same
train with Sydney Hutchinson and his wife and it has poured
steadily ever since. They got disgusted and shipped their
auto to Paris and expect to sail the end of this month.

We have gone to some churches and museums and the
state apartments in the Hof Burg, but have had no chance to
walk about the streets or see the life. Tuesday night we went
to the Opera, Faust, hearing their best tenor. We had seats
in the second row of the Parquet and enjoyed every minute
of it. The orchestra was superb, the singers good, but not
great, and they gave the whole Walpurgis Nacht with the
most superb ballet I ever saw. The house is very handsome,
in a sort of light chocolate and gold. I have not yet found out
who the leader or singers were, but will do so.

People came in here afterwards for supper and it was very
gay here. Yesterday Dr. Otis and his family turned up, the
one I wrote you was a friend of the Landis's, and that we
met at Cettinje. They are going to stay two months. The
Volckens also came yesterday and leave to-morrow.

It is still raining and to-morrow is our last chance to get to
Schonbrunn. To-night we are going to see the "Graf von Lux-
emburg " by the man who wrote the "Merry Widow " and hope
to find it as amusing as they say it is.
42 657

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

We leave Saturday morning for Munich and hope for a
clear day to go through the Tyrol, Linz and Salzburg to AIu-
nich, I have planned to spend Sunday there and go on Monday
to Sigmaringen and on Wednesday morning to Zurich and take
the night train to Paris, where I have rooms reserved at the
Hotel Crillon. My next will be from Sigmaringen, It was
nice to get the photos and see you all looking the same as ever.

With much love to all,

Your aff., M. D. R.

P. S. I will attend to the return trip the moment I get to
Paris. It is much easier to get accommodations there. One
cannot get the Lusitania or Mauretania at Cherbourg, so it
will probably be a Hamburg-American Ship.

Grand Hotel Continental, Munchen,

May 5th, 19 lo.
Dear Mr. Rosengarten,

You were, I am sure greatly relieved to get the cable from
Budapest telling you we were safely out of "Savage Europe,"
as an Englishman has called his book on Bosnia. I felt on a
nervous strain until we got into civilization, but now that it is
over I can look back upon it all as a w^onderful experience and
shall always remember with joy the beautiful and interesting
places and things that I have seen.

It was a hard trip from the time we left Venice and I feared
it would be too much for Mrs. Rosengarten, but we had prac-
tically no discomfort and received kind and courteous treat-
ment from every one, especially the train conductors, who
seemed to look upon us as their special charges. As Mrs. R.
has probably written you, we were never really alone until we
reached Agram, for the two English women were with us until
we left Jayce, and then some Germans with whom we had
talked were in the motor and train until we got to Agram.

Mrs. R. has written you so fully about each place that it

would bore you to hear of them again, so I will spare you

descriptions. To me Herzegovina and Bosnia were even more

658

EN ROUTE

interesting than Dalmatia and much more beautiful. The
scenery between Jayce and Banjaluka is the finest of my
experience.

We were childishly excited the night we arrived at Buda-
pest. It seemed like getting to Heaven to find ourselves in a
good Hotel and among civilized people, but I fancy Heaven
will not be quite as gay and giddy as the dining room of the
Hotel Hungaria.

Grand Hotel Continental, Munchen,
Sunday, May 8th,i9io.
Dear Clifford,

Two of your letters came almost together and where the
others are I do not know. I have been very careful not to
order the mail to out of the way places and always stopped it
several days before leaving a place, so none should arrive too
late.

We hated to leave Vienna, it was so gay and bright, al-
though it rained steadily and blew a fearful gale from Sunday
to Friday, when it cleared and got warm and I went out to
Schonbrunn and had a perfect view, but yesterday it started
in again here and is just now stopping at 5 p. m. We went out
to the picture gallery and the Frauen Kirche and some others,
among them a very ornate chapel, where King Ludwig the mad
King is buried. Tomorrow we shall go to the Alte Residenz
before going to take the train to Sigmaringen, to stay over
Monday and Tuesday nights, leaving Wednesday morning,
nth, for Zurich, and night train to Paris where I have secured
rooms at the Crillon, a new Hotel every one speaks well of.

King Edward's sudden death Friday night has made a
great sensation. None of you have said anything more about
Mrs. Whelen, after saying she was at the point of death, so I
take it she has recovered.

Your Father wrote that Hammerstein asked about my
seats at the Opera. Will you please write that if the present
arrangement continues I wish to keep my same seats for next

659

EIGHT JOURNia S ABROAD

year. The newspapers say that the MetropoHtan has bought
out Hammcrstein and taken over his artistes. I wonder if that
is true. Please attend to this for me. Please tell Annie to
have the house in summer trim, everything put away and the
parlor ready to close.

I got you a Bosnian weapon In a beautiful sheath, old Bos-
nian work, and hope you will like it. You said not to get
handkerchiefs or stockings. We had a lovely ride through
Salzburg, Linz, and along the Chiemsee. We had a peep at
the Tyrolean Alps when the clouds lifted at Linz.

Hoping you are quite well again, with much love,

Aflflv, M. D. R.

FRANCE

Hotel de Crillon, Paris,
Saturday eve., May 14th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

We had a rainy day for our trip to Zurich and only saw the
Museum and were reHeved to find we did not have to wait
until midnight to get our sleeping car, but got one direct from
Zurich.

HOTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS

I think the Adelmanns hated to have us go, they were so
friendly and nice. Of course we were only there over one day,
but we went all over the castle which is now finished and Maria
took a long walk late every afternoon with Count A. He has

661

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

aged some and grown stouter and Countess A. was so lovely.
Maria got along famously with them and seemed very much
impressed with her experience there. I told them that they
must absolutely come to us that we must not do all the visiting.
Count A. said that we must come and make a trip through
Northern Germany and make their house the headquarters, they
couldn't understand why you hadn't been willing to come over.

X ' * ^^BSues&er—^nSSiksiaiix

HOTEL DE CRILLON, PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. PARIS

We got here at six-thirty Thursday morning and were
delighted with this hotel. It is the building I always thought
was the Rothschild's house. It is the Ancient Hotel de Crillon
owned by the Duke de Polignac, facing the Place de la Con-
corde and on the side that is the continuation of the Rue de
Rivoli just beyond the Rue Royale.

You cannot imagine the traffic and the danger of crossing.
It rained hard Thursday, but I went at once and secured a
good stateroom on the Cincinnati for May 27th from Cher-
bourg.

We are very comfortably fixed here. I like It better than

662

FRANCE

any hotel I have ever been in here. We were so tired that we
have not done much but rest. The Gortons arrived to-day from
London in their car and are going to take us out to lunch

HOTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS

THE GARDEN', HOT

DE CRILLON, PARIS

to-morrow at either Pre Catalan or d'Armenonville. He

sails on Wednesday next.

I also met Miss de Coppet, who seems to be with some one

who has an automobile and she goes back Wednesday. She

asked if Clifford were with me. The Gortons have been to

England for the wedding of her niece and had a great time

663

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

there. Lady Pole-Care w, who came over to Quebec with the
Prince of Wales' party and a celebrated beauty, is the niece of
Mrs. Gorton's sister. Pierpont Morgan was at the wedding
and sent a superb diamond ornament that Mr. Gorton says
must have cost ^20,000, large pear-shaped diamonds. The
young lady is a Miss Butler and marries a young Drummond
in the English Navy.

I imagine we will have some good times with the automo-
bile while the Gortons are here. I have not yet let the
Rochambeaus know I am here, but will do so soon. I ordered
my underclothing and got a hat for Countess Adelmann. I
am too tired to write more to-night. Will write often. Much
love, and hoping to see you soon.

Affly, M. D. R.

Hotel de Crillon, Paris,
Monday, May i6th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

I wrote you Saturday evening and yesterday a little before
noon, we went off with Mr. and Mrs. Gorton in their beauti-
ful Packard limousine to the Pre Catalan in the Bois and had
lunch there in a great white room with all glass walls looking
out on beautiful flowers and exquisite green. It was as warm as
summer and after lunch we went on to Versailles and Maria saw
everything hurriedly, and then we came home in clouds of dust.

I never saw so many automobiles in all my life and it was
one great cloud of dust and I feel that Paris is ruined by
automobiles. As it was Sunday and the first warm sunny day
for two weeks the whole population was out and we got into a
bicycle race between Suresnes and Versailles that had left
Bordeaux at five in the morning. There were one million more
or less bicycles and riders waiting along the sides of the road
and it was dusty and hot.

To-day was a holiday and nothing open, so Maria and I

got a good rest. I haven't had time to make any calls so I

have written to the Countess de Rochambeau asking them to

come here to dine on Friday evening.

664

FRANCE

I was much surprised to meet Mr. Stotesbury in the hall
this p. M. He and the Hutchinsons had moved over from the
Bristol. It seems the H's had engaged rooms for Mr. S. there
and when he arrived they hadn't a room — said the King of
Greece and the Prince of that had arrived and had to have
the rooms, so they said if they cared more for the King of
Greece than Americans they would go elsewhere, so they all
moved over here.

Mr. Gorton says the McCormicks arrived to-day at this
hotel. He has been Ambassador in several places. I cannot
think where I met her.

The time is flying and we have so far done very little. Our
train leaves for Cherbourg on Friday 27th at one o'clock, and
I feel as if I had enough moving about of trunks for some time.

The French people seem all to have lost their taste — they
wear such enormous hats and such wigs and are so painted
and wear such tight skirts that they all look disreputable.
Well I must say good night and look forward to being with
you soon. I also look forward to riding to Philadelphia in
our newly painted Packard. Mrs. G. says she thinks the 1907
was the best car they have had but their 1910 moves without
a hitch. They got an Italian chauifeur in New York for this
trip. Much love to all. Affly, M. D. R.

Hotel de Crillon, Paris,

May 19th, 1910.
Dear Frank,

I went to the Bank this morning and got a letter from Betty
and one from you saying you should not write again. I am
sorry to miss Katherine Fowler's wedding. I think you can
get Fanny Rosengarten or Betty to help you buy a present.
Ask Mr. Caldwell to show you some Dutch silver, the sort of
things I buy. You know the sort of things I have had sent
home to choose from.

We went to the Countess Rene de Rochambeau's for tea

this afternoon. She had said I would meet her mother-in-law

and sister-in-law, the mother of the young Marquis. We found

665

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

a lot of people, about twenty, and we didn't know who any of
them were. The old Marquise came in and of course asked
about all the family, especially Joe and Fanny and Lina. None
of the people talked to us as the Countess gathered us all
around the table and it was rather embarrassing, but I think
more to them than to us.

C"OU\T DE ROCHAMBEAU

The Count and Countess will come to us for dinner Tues-
day of next week and I may ask Mr. Stotesbury. We go to
the Marquise for dinner some evening before we sail a week
from tomorrow. The Hutchlnsons sail Saturday on the Lusi-
tania and Mrs. Chester and husband (he is Admiral Chester's
son) go on Wednesday night next.

Mrs. Gorton took us out in her automobile this morning

666

FRANCE

but I find one does not accomplish much going with other
people. Mr. Gorton sailed yesterday. Mrs. Munn, the mother-
in-law of Mary Paul, put her younger son in his charge. I
took Mrs. Gorton to lunch today at Durand's, as she had
lunched us Sunday and I thought of you as we ate artichokes
with Hollandaise sauce.

COUNTESS DE ROCHAMBEAU

We went last night to see L'Attaque da Moulin, by Erck-
mann-Chatrian and found it set to music. Mme. Delna, a
great contralto, sang magnificently and I never saw finer act-
ing than hers. The audience nearly tore them to pieces.

I am so tired. I w^onder if you will see the Halley comet.

It has been too cloudy to see it but it will be seen in England

to-night. With much love to all.

Affly, M. D. R

667

THE END.

Coronado, California, June 12th, 191 3.

General Offley Shore,
Office of General Staff,
Simla, India.

Dear Offley,

You cannot realize how little strength I have and why it
should tax me so to write.

The Doctor Lorini, a fascinating man of Italian descent,
educated in France and at the University of Pa., doesn't give
me much hope of being better. They have given the vaccine
a thorough trial and it seems to have been of no use. I still
have the chill followed by fever through the best part of the day.
This absorbs my strength so that now I am taken care of just
like an infant. They find my heart keeps up all right, which is
a great deal, and yet if I cannot even stand a minute, of what
use am I.^ I fear I will never get back home again. I often
think of the day I left my home in the auto, and the delightful
trip we had, and that I have never been back.

How I wish you could see the flowers here. The roses are
like great cabbages in size, and most wonderful are the shad-
ings. They all grow just like weeds; their stems are twice as
thick as ours; the Canterbury Bells are enormous.

I made my dessert tonight of enormous cherries brought
down from La Mesa, back in the Mountains, and a delicious
peach. We are now having strawberries, raspberries, cherries,
peaches, apricots, and shortly ripe figs, melons, &c. It has been
a freak year, fog morning and night, all the time, unheard ot
before, but one day is like another in temperature so I am not
subject to changes. The doctors say they cannot understand
how I have avoided tuberculosis. I shall certainly avoid places
where tubercular people go. My cough is incessant during the
day, but I get along fairly well at night. I must cough to get

668

EIGHT JOURNEYS ABROAD

rid of the sputum, otherwise I would be drowned in it. I see
no future but am fighting for my life.

It was all so sudden to be cut completely out of everything
without any warning.

I don't understand how you get flowers to grow 6 and 8,000
ft. up in the Mts. They keep me supplied with flowers from
the Hotel Gardens and Dr. Lorini keeps me supplied with
books.

How I wish you and Lina could be here with us, and I hope
I may live to see you again.

Much love to you both and thanks for your kind letters.
Do write often. Sam and Aunt Laura are coming out early in
August.

Affectionately yours, M. D. R.

She passed away peacefully, after months of suffering, on
the 29th of October, 191 3.

APPENDIX

HER SON CLIFFORD, IX UNIFORM OF 1st CITY
TROOP IN CAMPAIGN OF 1898

AND IN U. S. ARMY IN 1917
673

APPENDIX

674

APPENDIX

675

APPENDIX

CASTANIAN, HOME IX GERMAXTOWN

mTm X-

mF a P'''i'inu -

jg|

lie

fll^^^KJiiii/i^^^^^^^^l^H

BSfip^^K »•-' IBw^^

JAMESTOWN HOME IN 1885
676

APPENDIX

■k-

- ' 4

SlMffi'j'i L

JAMESTOWN HOME AS SHE CHANGED IT. 1912

GARDEN AT JAMESTOWN, 1912

677

APPENDIX

GRAPE AND PLUM ARBOR IN 1912

THE HOME IN NEWPORT, R. I., li
678

APPENDIX

INTERIOR OF JAMESTOWN HOME IN 1912

THE LAST DAY IN THE GARDEN, JAMESTOWN, 1912

679

APPENDIX

THE VILLA AT CORONADO, CALIFORNIA, 1913

IN THE GARDEN AT CORONADO, CALIFORNIA, 1913

THE CORONADO VILLA
680

APPENDIX

Mrs. Rosengarten was a director from the formation of

THE PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA ASSOCIATION

(Incorporated 1903)

The Membership of this Association is confined by its By-Laws to

THE GUARANTORS, whose ranks you are invited to join by subscribing Twenty-five Dollars

or more to the guarantee fund, and thus aid in

Maintaining and Operating

THE PHILADELPHIA ORCHESTRA

(founded 1900)
Carl Pohlig, Conductor

OFFICERS
Alex. Van Rensselaer, President

Thomas McKean, Vice-President

Andrew Wheeler, Secretary, 1608 Market Street
Arthur E. Newbold, Treasurer, Drexel & Co., Fifth and Chestnut Streets

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE

Charles A. Braun
Richard Y. Cook
Mrs. A. J. Dallas Dixon
C. Hartman Kuhn
Thomas McKean

Arthur E. Newbold
G. Heide Norris
Miss Anne Thomson
Alex. Van Rensselaer
Andrew Wheeler

Mrs. W. W. Arnett
Charles A. Braun
James Crosby Brown
Richard Y. Cook
EcKLEY B. Coxe, Jr.
Mrs. a. J. Dallas Dixon
Theodore N. Ely

BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Miss Mary K. Gibson
Clement A. Griscom
John H. Ingham
C. Hartman Kuhn
Thomas McKean
Arthur E. Newbold
Clement B. Newbold
G. Heide Norris

Mrs. F. H. Rosengarten
Edgar Scott
E. T. Stotesbury
Miss Anne Thomson
Alex. Van Rensselaer
Andrew Wheeler
Miss F. A. Wister

MANAGER AND COMPTROLLER
Horace Churchman

PUBLICITY MANAGER
Harvey M. Watts

COUNSEL
G. Heide Norris

BUSINESS OFFICE

13 14 Pennsylvania Building, 15th and Chestnut Streets,

Philadelphia

681

APPENDIX

THE EURYDICE CHORUS

of Philadelphia.

Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten, President.

Dr. Horatio Parker
Conductor.

TWENTY-FIFTH SEASON— 1910-1911

The Chorus Will be Assisted by

THE ORPHEUS CLUB

and

Mr. Edward G. McCollin Baritone

Mrs. Emma F. Rihl Soprano

Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr Contralto

Mrs. Dorothy Johnstone Baseler Harpist

Mr. John Witzemann Violinist

Mr. Philip Schmitz Violoncellist

Mr. Anton Horner French Horn

Mr. Paul Fischer Flute

and

Mr. Ellis Clark Hammann

Pianist

HORTICULTURAL HALL

Thursday Evening, April 27th, 191 1, at 8.15 o'clock.

THE EURYDICE CHORUS

Founded by the Late Mrs. Charles Hazelhurst.
1886 1911

TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT
Original Committee
President, Mrs. Charles Hazlehurst
Mrs. Herman V. Hilprecht
Mrs. a. J. Dallas Dixon
Mrs. Dennis McCarthy
Miss Sally W. Fisher

First Conductor

Michael H. Cross

From 1886 Until His Death in 1897

The first part of the concert will be a memorial to Mr. Michael H. Cross and will include
several numbers from the programme of the first Eurydice concert, given April 19, 1887,
as well as two numbers from the original programme of The Orpheus Club, given December
7, 1872.

APPENDIX

TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT
1897 (Continued) 1905

Dr. Frank Damrosch
Conductor

Fritz Scheel

Conductor

1905-1907

in
Memoriam

Dr. W. W. Gilchrist

Conductor
February, 1907 — April, 1907

Dr. Horatio Parker
Was Unanimously Elected Conductor for the Season of 1907-1908

Dr. Gilchrist, Dr. Damrosch, Dr. Parker

Conductors of The Eurydice Chorus

Dr. Frank Damrosch, Dr. W. W. Gilchrist, Dr. Horatio Parker
Dr. Chadwick and Mr. David Stanley Smith will each conduct a number of their own
compositions to honor the Twenty-fifth Anniversary of the Chorus.

TWENTY-FIFTH ANNIVERSARY CONCERT
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten, President.

PROGRAMME

PART I.

In Memoriam

Mendelssohn Laudate Puerl

(The first piece ever sung in public by the Eurydice Chorus)

The Eurydice Chorus

Curschman Flower Greeting

Trio

Mrs. Holt, Mrs. Hollingshead, Miss Dercum

Joseph Hatton Summer Eve

The Eurydice Chorus
Kreutzer The Chapel

Zollner Champagne Song

The Orpheus Club
683

APPENDIX

PART II.
R. Schumann Dcr Nussbaum

The Eurydice Chorus

Violin and Harp

Songs for Baritone

George W. Chadwick, and conducted by him (a) "Before the Dawn"

Horatio Parker, and conducted by him (b) "Once I Loved a Maiden Fair"

W. W. Gilchrist, and conducted by him. . .(c) "Canst Thou Leave Me Thus, My Katy"

Mr. Edward G. McCollin

David Stanley Smith The Sleeping Priestess

The Eurydice Chorus
Conducted by the Composer

Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr.

Richard Strauss Alle Meine Gedanken

Johannes Brahms Im Herbst

Henry Gordon Thunder A Love Song

Dr. Frank Damrosch The Violet

Conducted by the Composer

PART III
VV. VV. Gilchrist The Syrens

Mrs. Emma F. Rihl

Campbell Tipton A Spirit Flower

Ellis Clark Hammann The Daffodils

Xavier Leroux Le Nil

With Violin Obligato
George Whitefield Chadwick Spring Beauties

A New Piece Dedicated to The Eurydice Chorus
Conducted by the Composer

Horatio Parker, and conducted by him In May

Edward Kremser A Prayer of Thanksgiving

The Orpheus Club

AND

The Eurydice Chorus

OFFICERS

President
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten 1905 Walnut Street

Vice-Presidents

Mrs. Alexander J. Cassatt Haverford, Pa.

Mrs. Alexander J. Dallas Dixon 1015 Clinton Street

Mrs. Louis F. Benson 2014 DeLancey Place

Treasurer
Miss Marie W. Paul 930 Chestnut Street

Assistant Treasurer
Miss Margaret M. Riley 1509 Spruce Street

684

APPENDIX

Secretary
Mrs. B. Fraxklin Rittenhouse 4613 Leiper Street, Frankford

Assistant Secretary
Miss Mary Grubb Smith 2039 Walnut Street

Librarian
Mrs. Harlow Voorhees Elkins Park, Pa.

Honorary Members
Mr. Charles D. Barney Rev. Dr. Louis F. Benson Dr. Frank Damrosch
Mrs. Henry Drayton Mr. Frank H. Rosengarten

Active Members

Miss Elsie L. Bailey
Miss Clara 'SI. Barba
Miss Elsie Bein
Miss Bertha D. Benson
Mrs. Louis F. Benson
Mrs. Joseph S. Bunting
Mrs. Henry W. Butterworth
Miss Ethel Altemus Byrd
Mrs. a. J. Cassatt
Mrs. Catlin

Miss Anne H. Chamberlain
Mrs. Nettie Moore Chaine
Miss Clara T. Chase
Mrs. Coloney
Mrs. J. Barratt Conner
Miss Jean Aldrich Conrad
Mrs. Norman W. Cramp
Miss Susanna E. Dercum
Mrs. a. J. Dallas Dixon
Mrs. S. Naudain Duer
Mrs. H. a. Everett
Mrs. C. L. Flanagan
Mrs. Stephen Fuguet
Miss Beulah C. Garretson
Mrs. Horace T. Greenwood
Miss M Matilda Halsey
Mrs. L. J. Ha.mmond
Miss Fanny C. Haupt
Miss Bertha VV. Held
Miss M. Louise Held
Mrs. John Holt
Mrs. Maud H. Hollingshead
Mrs. Archibald B. Hubard
Mrs. Joseph B. Hutchinson
Mrs. Walter H. Johnson
Mrs. John Jay Joyce, Jr.
Mrs. Olive Boyce Judson
Mrs. Chares Y. DeV. Keefe

Mrs. E. L. Kennedy
Mrs. Frank G. Kennedy
Miss Edith Noel' Kurtz
Miss Fanny Lamb
Mrs. Percy Legge
Mrs. Fielding Otis Lewis
Mrs. Wm. Henderson Long
Miss Anna K. Lorimer
Mrs. S. M. A4eryweather
Mrs. William O. Miller
Miss Myra V. Monk
Mrs. Emilie Bailey Myers
Mrs. Harold Nason
Miss Marie W. Paul
Miss Alice G. Phillips
Mrs. William P. Remington
Miss Margaret \L Riley
Mrs. Albert Rihl
Mrs. B. F. Rittenhouse
Mrs. George W. B. Roberts
Mrs. Owen J. Roberts
Mrs. Frank H. Rosengarten
Miss Rumpp
Mrs' Wayne Schantz
Mrs. Harold \l. Sill
Mrs. Frederick Schick
Miss Mary Grubb Smith
Miss Marion Spangler
Mrs. G. W. Stewart
Mrs. Sydney Thayer
Mrs. Henry C. Thompson
Mrs. W. H. Tutwiler
Miss Harriet H. Van Bau.m
Mrs. Harlow Voorhees
Miss Helen Voorhees
Miss Frances N. White
Mrs. J. G. Wilson
Mrs. Robert K. Wright

APPENDIX

Breezy Meadows, Metcalf, Mass.

May 31st, 1916.
My dear Mr. Rosengarten,

I do remember your wife. No one could ever forget her
who had the pleasure of knowing her even slightly, for she
was a rare type with decided individuality, unusual gifts and
a magnetism which attracted every one. Yes, my Father
received quite a class of young ladies into our home after his
return from St. Louis and greatly enjoyed teaching them as he
was in advance of his time in believing that a girl should
have just as good an education as a boy.

The Indians speak of the Unknown Power which controls
our Fate as "the Great Mystery" and certainly we know
very little.

I am sincerely
your friend

Kate Sanborn

Miss Sanborn, daughter of Prof. Sanborn, President of
Dartmouth College, sent these lines when she heard of the
death of Mrs. Rosengarten.

Miss Sanborn died in July, 191 7.

DUE DATE

» AY 2 2 '*

201-6503

Printed
in USA

COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES

0043308244

^ri'

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