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EIGHTY

PICTURESQUE VIEWS

ON THE

ENGRAVED ON STEEL BY THE FIRST ARTISTS.

THE HISTORICAL DESCRIPTIONS BY W, G. FEARNSIDE, ESQ.

LONDON :

PUBLISHED BY BLACK AND ARMSTRONG,..

FOREIGN BOOKSELLERS TU HER MAJESTY.

Priet Ttco Guimat.

W. J. SEARS, PRINTER, 4, IVV LANE, NEWGATE STREET.

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

T2Ff

View from London Bridge f Frontispiece)

—

Mill at Kempsford

1»

Oxford

Nuneham Courteney

Wallingford . . . .

Park Place, Henley

Henley, Oxen

Island, near Henley . . .

Fawley Court, Henley .

Medmenham Abbey

Manor House, Hurley .

View near Hurley

Bisham Abbey

Suspension Bridge, Great Marlow

Cookham . . . .

Lord Boston's, Hedsor .

Cliefden . . . .

View from Cliefden Park

View from Maidenhead Bridge

Bray . . . .

Windsor Castle

Dorney Church, near Windsor

Eton College . . , ,

Windsor Bridge

Datchet Bridge

Old Windsor Locks

.63

Chertsey Bridge

Sbepperton , .

Walton Bridge

Sunbury Locks

Garrick's Villa at Hampton

Hampton Court Bridge . • .

Teddington Locks

Strawberry Hill, Lord Waldegrava's,

Twickenham

Seat of — Drummond, Esq.

Seat of the Duke of Buccleugh, Richmond

View from Richmond Hill

Richmond Bridge

ttS

Seat of the Marquis of Aylesbury .

■•AGS

Kew Bridge .

Hammersmith Bridge .

Chelsea Hospital

View near Battersea

Vauxhall Bridge

Lambeth Palace

',i

Weutminster Bridge

Hungerford New Market

Adelphi Terrace

Waterloo Bridge

Somerset House

Blackfriar's Bridge

•

St Paul's from Bankside

Southwark Bridge

Southwark

Londoa Bridge .

Billingsgate .

Custom House

Tower of London

St. Catherine Docks .

Rotherhithe .

Tunnel

Greenwich Hospital

7tf

View from Greenwich .

View near Greenwich .

Erith

Greenhithe .

Nortbfleet .

Gravesend .

Nore Lights .

Testou Bridge

East Farleigh

Maidstone

AUington Castle ,

Allingtoa Lock*

Aylesford

Woldham Church

Rochester Ca«lle

Chatham

Gilliugham .

ftS

459

THAMES & MEDWAY,

&c. &c.

PREFACE

The descriptive view of any principal river naturally comprehends an account of the most

interesting and picturesque portion of the country through which its course is directed.

Towns and cities are always found upon its hanks, and where Nature has not embellished

its precincts, the display of art in raising the princely fabric, or rich domain, have assisted

in beautifying its margin. In ancient times, the castle reared its embattled walls to protect

its fords, and the lonely cloister and stately abbey were usually erected near the sequestered

meanderings of its silent waters.

The history of a river, therefore, offers to the observation all objects of interest : from

the magnificence of a capital, to the simplicity of a hamlet ; from the abode of royalty, to the

cabin of the peasant ; from the ruined remains of the baronial hall, to the elegant modern

villa ; from the dark xunbrageous forest, to the light and verdant grove. The effects of

Nature, in her wild and sublime character, are accompanied with sensations of astonishment

and awe, where, clothed in picturesque and rustic beauty, the feelings that are given birth to,

are those of pleasure. The Thames, " the most loved of all the Ocean's sons," possessing none

of the former qualifications, but a profusion of the latter, is formed, therefore, only to please.

It vaunts no grand outline of composition, no bold romantic features, " where giant rocks in

proud defiance" frown on the pigmy — Man. No mountainous scenery, or " cloud-capp'd

tower," stand forth in " majesty supreme," but sylvan landscapes, rich and luxuriant meadows,

sloping hills, and woody heights, succeed each other in delightful perspective. Instead of

the foaming torrent, roaring cataract, and troubled wave, it presents a smooth and silvery

stream —

"Though deep, yet clear — though gentle, yet not dull —
Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full."

Nature, who so elegantly and beautifully defines her works, and by the slightest touch
>-aries to infinity her creative powers, can give a constant succession of pastoral scenerr,
1. ■

n PREFACE.

cliarming' in its detail, and harmonising with the purer dictates of the human heart, whicli,
i>n the spot, we at once acknowledge and admire ; yet, in portraying these delicate distinctions,
and nice gradations, so intimately blended with each other, where a peculiar tint of the foliag-e
or a sudden curve of the bank serves to destroy the uniformity, and gratify the' eye in distin-
guishing, any graphic delineation of the pen. or mimic art of the pencil, must fail, in conveying*
to the mind of the reader an adequate idea. As has been classically observed, " the ponderous
muscular strength of the Farnesean Hercules may be represented without any luicommon exer-
tion of language, or curious arrangement of phraseology ; but where can we find expressions
to describe or illustrate the form of the Medicean Venus — a statue that adorns the world."

We have been more particularly induced in this instance to dwell upon the subject, feeling
deeply impressed with the difficulties which arise in the present undertaking, and that the
sameness of prospect, frequently occurring without any prominent character to vary the
portrait, renders the indulgence of the reader necessary, in pardoning a repetition of phrases,
or tautology of expression, which may consequently ensue. I wish —

" My pen could flow like Thames, and make its stream
My great example, as it is my theme."

The want of variety of diction must be attributed to the anxiety we have experienced in
rendering a genuine picture, rather than, for the sake of making the delineation piquant, of
otfering an imaginary representation. Respecting the identity of the scenes, we feel confident,
as the whole description is the result of attentive personal inspection. We can speak with
e<jual assurance concerning the various engravings which enrich the work : the drawings
are all copied from Nature, and no former designs of any part of the river, however admired,
have been adopted. Often, with the idea of rendering a view picturesque, the Artist introduces
subjects foreign to the reality, in order to bestow a pictorial effect, not allowing Nature to
rest upon her own merits ; and thus it is, in various illustrated works, that the landscape and
scenery are beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but fail entirely in conveying a just conception of
that portion of the country, which they are intended to describe. The Artist, in confining the
powers of his pencil to the prescribed limits of the present work, has endeavoured, without
any fictitious aid, faithfully to portray those views of the river, which have struck him,
during a tour along its banks, as most likely to exhibit its peculiarities, and the various
subjects of local interest connected with its stream.

All the objects of antiquity, natural curiosities or geological remains occurring in the
neighbourhood, — the numerous churches with their tapering spires, which rise continually in

PREFACE. m

peaceful beauty from the enamelled banks, — the classic ground of Oxford, — the roval and
splendid castle of Windsor, — Eton, " famed for tutor'd lore," — and all places of any note,
will meet with a lengthened detail.

As we approach the metropolis, particular description must be rendered subservient to a
nore comprehensive narrative of the ancient state and modern improvements of London, its com-
^nercial and statistical history, and other minute information, useful to the english or foreign
traveller. In the panoramic map, on the same scale as that annexed to " The Views on the
Rhine," every city, town, village, church, bridge, lock, and wear, will be correctly delineated.
Mention will be likewise made of the respective sources of the various tributary rivers and
streams, and the line of country through which their waters flow, " in eager race," to lend
their influence to the parent flood.

Amongst the numerous publications issuing from the press, descriptive of different inte-
resting and picturesque portions of the kingdom, it is matter of astonishment that no account
has of late years attempted to familiarise to the public each wandering of the noble Thames.
While sources of. foreign rivers are explored, and historical views and designs presented of
their course, yet the majesty of this " sovereign of British rivers" is comparatively unknown,
and many an Englishman is less acquainted with the beauties which grace his native
Tliames, than those of the distant banks of the Ganges, or the Nile.

The Thames, exclusive of the national interest attached to it, is one of the most remarkable
rivers in the world. From its fountain-head, it is constantly acquiring importance, until swell-
ing to a vast expanse, the waters lose their designation in the conflux with the German ocean.
What country can boast, on the bosom of a river, such power and grandeur as are displayed
on passing London, the emporium of the world ? The proud forest of lofty masts crowding its
waters — the flags of every nation fluttering in the breeze — ships from each quarter of the
globe, bearing their wealth on its deep and broad stream — innumerable vessels of all sizes,
from the «Hrim-built" wherry, to the mighty wooden castles of England — from the heavy barge
and scudding fishing-smack, to the huge and stately ships employed in traffic with the Indies.
In the following address to the Thames, the various objects of admiration it possesses are cor-
rectly and concisely described.

"The b1ood.8tain'd scourge no tyrants wield.

No groaning slaves enrirli the field,

Bnt Health and Laboni's willing train.

Crowns all thy banks with waving gram j
■ With beauty decks thy sylvan shades.

With livelier green invests thy glades j

IV PREFACE.

And grace, and bloom, and plenty pour!«,
On thy sweet meads and willowy shores.
The field where herds unnumber'd rove,
The laurell'd path, the beechen grove,
The oak, in lonely grandeur free,
Lord of the Forest and the Sea;
The spreading plain, the cultured hill,
The tranquil cot, the restless mill.
The lonely hamlet, calm and still ;
The village spire, the busy town.
The shelving bank, the rising down.
The fisher's punt, the peasant's home.
The woodland seat, the regal dome,
In quick succession rise to charm
The mind, with virtuous feelings warm ;
Till where thy widening current glides.
To mingle with the turbid tides ;
Thy spacious breast displays unfurl'd
The ensigns of th' assembled world."

In expatiating, however, on the varieties and beauties of the Thames, due mention will
be made of its twin-flood, the Medway. A river, although not equal to the Thames in magni-
tude and importance, yet may claim a superiority in point of bold and diversified scenery.
The short and abrupt reaches, and the continual change of objects afforded in its progress
through the luxuriant and fertile county of Kent, cannot fail to impart gratification and
delight to every lover of Nature. The peculiar sinuosity of its stream has been described
with much truth, by one of the older poets : —

" Whose wanton tide in wreathing volumes flows.
Still forming reedy islands as it goes.
And in meanders to the neighbouring plain.
The liquid serpent draws its silver train."

The four principal sources will be noticed, and the direction of these tributary streams
accurately traced. Penshurst, famed for "noble Sydney's birth," will meet a copious
description, as well as Tunbridge, where the navigation commences, Maidstone, Rochester,
and the royal dock-yards of Chatham and Sheerness, until its waters, in union with those
of the Thames, are mingled with the ocean.

We have only further to remark, that the same attention will be paid to the Medway, in
regard to the detail of the various subjects of natural, historical, and antiquarian interest, as
will be bestowed upon the Thames.

THE THAMES.

Ihe Thames, unlike the mighty rivers of America, cannot claim extent of stream or
expanse of water to render it conspicuous in history ; its importance has however become cele-
brated from sphere to sphere, through bearing on its daily tides vessels laden with the produce
and riches of every clime, thus concentrating the commerce of the globe within our own
island, and constituting the vast metropolis of England, the emporium of the world. In this
respect all foreigners acknowledge the supremacy of the Thames, and every Englishman
looks with pride and veneration on his native river, whose banks are always fraught with the
liveliest interest, connected as they are with the most remote annals of his country, and to
many ever convey some fond remembrance, blended with the earlier or later period of life.
The origin of the river, like that of many men of note and high renown, is traced from a
secluded and humble source, gradually gliding on from obscurity and insignificance to distinc-
tion and importance; until,' as the ancients said of the Euphrates, it both plants and waters
Britain.

The word " Thames" has been the subject of much literary controversy, and in taking
therefore an historical review of the river, it is essential that the various opinions brought
forward on its etymology should be thoroughly investigated. Bishop Gibson and Mr.
Gough, the learned commentators on the works of the great antiquarian Camden, treat as
fiction the popular notion that the river from its source was designated Use, Ouse, or Isis,
until at its conflux with the Tame, near Dorchester, in Oxfordshire, it assumed the name of
Tamisis, or Tamesis, since corrupted into Thames, and think tliat this idea, originating more
in poetical imagery than reality, has perpetuated the error, investing it with a kind of clas-
sical sanctity, and that in fact the river, even from its spring head, baa always been known
by the appellation of Thames. The authors of the few histories extant on the river, and
most of the modern topographers, have coincided with or rather copied these respected
authorities, placing without the pale of doubt any deviation from their dictum. We have,
however, with considerable care and attention, consulted all the earliest historians wl>o have
descanted on the name, and feel convinced that the proofs adduced by Camden's annotators
are not sufficiently conclusive to refute the more ancient opinion that two rivers existed,
the union of whose names formed the word Thames. We will first cite Bishop Gibson's
remarks, in Iiis translation of Camden's Britannica, which Mr. Gough has followed ver-
2

2 THE THAMES.

batim. " Upon this first mention of the river Thames, it will not be improper to observe,
that though the current opinion is, that it had that name from the conjunction of Thame and
Isis, it plainly appears that the river was always called Thames, or Terns, before it came near
the Thame. Thus, in an ancient charter granted to the Abbot Aldelm, there is particular
mention of certain lands on the east side of the river, ' cujus vocabulum Temis juxta vadum
qui appellatur Somerford,' and this ford is in Wiltshire. " We will merely note that the
passage is incorrectly quoted; according to William of Malmesbury, in his Life of the Abbot
Aldelmus, it should be, on the east side of the river, " quod appellatur Temys juxta vadum
cujus vocabulum est Sutnmerforde." Dr. Gibson then proceeds, — " the same appears from
several charters to Malmesbury and Evesham Abbeys, and from the old deeds relating to
Cricklade. And perhaps it may be safely affirmed, that it never occurs under the name of
Isis, which indeed is not so much as heard of, but among scholars; the common people, frond
its head to Oxford, calling it by no other name than that of Thames. So also the Saxon
word Temef, whence our Tems or Thames immediately comes, shows plainly that that people
never thought of any such conjunction. Further, all our historians who mention the incursion
of Ethel wold into Wiltshire, A. D. 905, or of Canute, A. D. 1016, tell us, they crossed the
Thames at Cricklade."

This criticism of the venerable Bishop is in direct opposition to the statement of his learned
author Camden, who, in his description of the county of Gloucestershire, mentions the river
as "Isis vulgo Ouse, &c. Hie ille Isis, qui postea recepto Tama, Tamisis, composito vocabulo
dicitur fluminum Britannicorum regnator." " The Isis, commonly called the Ouse, rises from
a continual spring in the south side of this county. This is that Isis which afterwards receiving
the Tame, by adding the names together, is called Tamisis, the chief of British rivers." Again,
speaking of Oxfordshire — " The Isis, afterwards called Tamisis, in a long course Avasheth the
south side of this county. The river Tame waters and fructifies the eastern parts, till at last
both those rivers, with several other little streams, are received into the Isis;" again, " Near
Dorchester, Tame and Isis with mutual consent join, as it were in wedlock, and mix their names
as well as their waters, being henceforth called Tham-Isis, or the Thames, in like manner as the
rivers Jor and Dan in the Holy Land, and Dor and Dan in France, from which compositions
are Jordan and Dordan;" and concludes with extracts from a Latin poem, called the Marriage
of Thames and Isis, which, by his biographers, is attributed to the pen of Camden himself.

" Dixerat; unito consurgit et unus atnore
Lastior exultans nunc nomine Tamisis uno,
Oceanumque patrem, quaerens jactantior undas
Proraovet."

^r " Thus sang the Goddess; straight Tamisis stream,

Proud of the late addition to its name.
Flows briskly on, ambitious now to pay
A larger tribute to the sovereign sea."

On reference to the manuscripts of the earlier monkish historians, as edited by Dr. Gale,

THE THAMES.

we find that Ranulphus Higdenus, monk of Chester, who lived in the reig^i of Richard th-
second, and died 1362, in his Polychronicon, De rebus Britannicis et Hibernicis usque
ad Conquestum, thus mentions the Thames. " Tamisia videtur componi a nominibus duo-
rum Huminum, quae sunt Thama et Ysa aut Usa. Thama currens juxta Dorcestriam cadit
in Ysam, inde totus fluvius a suo exortu usque ad mare orientale dicitur Thamisia ; nempe
juxta Tetteburiam, quae tribus millibus ad Boreara Malmesburiae ponitur, nascitur Thamisia
exfonticulo versus orientem decurrente, &c." " Tamisia seems composed from the names of two
rivers, the Ysa, or Usa, and the Thama. The Thama, running by Dorchester, falls into the
Ysa; thence the whole river, even from its source to the eastern sea, is called Thamisia, &c."
In relating the history of Dorchester, he says, "villam humilem, ad austrum Oxonia*
juxta Wallingford, inter collapsus duorum fluminum Thamae et Ysae sitam. " In the ancient
iiud beautiful MS. Eulogium Britanniae, in the Cottonian Library, by Nennius, who flou-
rished, according to some in the year 620, and others in 858, the river is also written Tamisia,
as well as in the MS. Chronicles of England, by Brompton, Abbot of loreval, Gervasis, monk
of Canterbury, and Simeon of Lindisfarn. In the " Chronica Joannis Wallingford, " it is
termed Thamisa. In an anonymous manuscript, stated to have been written in 699, containing
a history of the abbey of Ramsey, in Huntingdonshire, the river is designated Thamise.

Julius Caesar, in his Commentaries, mentions the river as Tamesis, — Tacitus and Dion Cas-
sius as Tamesis and Txfxtvu. Claudius Ptolomaeus, in his Geographia, when describing Bri-
tain, names the river and its deboucliement, the mouth of i«/x/o-<r«, or Jamissa ; which designation
M. D'Anville, in his Ancient Geography, has also cited. The venerable Bede, Geoffrey of
Monmouth, Henry of Huntingdon, and Roger of Hoveden, in their Histories of Britain, as
well as the "sapient" Gildas " De excidio Britanniae," render the word Tamesis, Tamisis, and
Tamasis. It appears, therefore, in all the earlier records, that the river is never even alluded to
as Thames, or Tems, but invariably under the compound word of Thamisia, Tharoisis, or
Thamesis. We would here note, that had the river been " always known " as Terns, the
compound appellation would have become superfluous, as well as erroneous.

It is true the river is termed Tamisis and Tamesis by the few historians who mention its
passage at Cricklade ; and they justly estimated, we apprehend, in making use of the local or
provincial name of Ouse, or Usa, in recording facts that occurred on its banks during the cam-
paigns of Ethelwold and Canute, that tlie designation of the river would not, in those days,
have been generally recognised, unless spoken of as the Tamisis, the name applied to the
most important portion of the stream, whose narrow and small current, in its infant state, hardly
deserved the mention as a separate river; by the figure of synecdoche, they took a part for
the whole, and in writing of any division of its waters, thus included the whole current under
the name of Tamisis, in order to identify its course.

The antiquarian and traveller Leiand, justly styled the father of English antiquaries, was
librarian to Henry the eighth, and at the time of the dissolution of the monasteries had th«
king's permission to travel through the kingdom, with his sign manual, to search all monastic
records and manuscripts, thus mentions the river's source : " Isis riseth at 3 myles from Ciren-
cestre, not far from a village cawlled Kemble, within half a mile oC the fosscway, whcr the

THE THAMES.

very hed of Isis ys. In a great somer drought there appereth very little or no water, yet is
the stream servid Avith many of springes resorting to one botom."

The learned Welshman, Lhvvyd, in his " Breviary of Britayne," on mentioning Dorchester,
situated on the Thame, states, " Neere where the Thame dischargeth himselfe into Isis, from
whence the name Tamesis, the Thames, proceedeth." The same author, in speaking of
Leland, says, " Against whom, as one having very well deserved of ye Britaynes, and much
exercised in ancient histories, I dare not contend. "

Holinshed, in his Chronicles of England, alluding to the source of the Thames, says,
" where it is sometime named the Isis, or Ouse, althoughe dyvers doe ignorauntlye call it
Thames, even there, rather of a foolishe custome than of any skill, because they eyther neglect
or utterly are ignoraunt how it was named at the first. " And again, " where joyning with
the river Thame, it loseth the name of Isis or Ouse, and from thenceforth is called Thamisis."

Stowe, in his Annals of England, referring to the Thames, writes, " that most excellent
and goodly river hath first the name of Ise, and beginneth in Coteswold, in Glocestershire,
about a mile from Titbery, and as much from the hie-way called Foosse ; and it taketh first
the name of Tamise, neere to Dorcester-bridge, where the river Tame and the foresaid Ise
meete ; and so with a marvellous quiet course it passeth by London, and then breaketh into
the French ocean by maine tides. "

Speed, in his " Theatre of Great Britayne," speaking of the county of Oxford, and the
rivers which "sportingly there-thorow make their passage," says, the Evenlode, Churn, Thame,
and Isis are chief; which two last, making their bed of marriage near unto Dorchester, run
thence together in one channel and name, Thamisis. In other parts of his description of
the same county, he calls the river Thame-Isis; and in speaking of the name Ouse, he says,
" by the Latines called Isis."

Regarding the origin of the name Ouse, we find in different parts of England, several
rivers of the same appellation, the principal of which are those in Yorkshire and Hunting-
donshire. Flaccus Alcwinus, in his poem, " De Pontiticibus et Sanctis Ecclesiae Eboracensis,
or, an Ecclesiastical History of York and its Cathedral," written about the year 780, descri-
bing the city, alludes to the river Ouse as " Piscosa Usa ; " and in the MS. History of Ramsey
Abbey, before alluded to, the Ouse in Huntingdonshire is termed also Usa. Hence the Ouse
of Gloucestershire was named Usa, and we can readily conceive the name, in lapse of years,
to have been corrupted into that of Ysa and Ise ; more particularly if, as according to Speed,
the Romans translated Ouse, Isis. Nor is it at all improbable that, in passing Oxford, one of
the earliest seats of learning in the kingdom, it attained the same classic cognomen,
to which the general name Usa and Ysa so nearly assimilated. In Hebrew, the word t/s,
pronounced Owse, denotes speed — haste ; and in the early days of the church, the monkish
brethren may have thought this word not an inappropriate term to represent the quick pas-
sage of the current ; and we observe that on the banks of both chief rivers thus named, two
of the most ancient monastic edifices in the country have been situated.

Adverting once more to Bishop Gibson, he remarks, that the word Thame seems plainly
to be British, there being many rivers in England, of almost the same name ; as Tame, in

THE THAMES. 5

Staffordshire, — Teme, in Herefordshire, — Tamar, in Cornwall, &c. ; " and Lhwyd afiirnn
it to he the same with T&f, which is the name of many rivers in Wales, the Greeks
as well as Romans changlnp^ the pronunciation of f into m ; as Ptolemaeus, in his GeO'
graphia, mentions Pembrokeshire under the name of Demetia, or Dymetia^ which is, in
Welch, Dyfed; the Temd in Shropshire is thought also to have the same British etymo-
logy ; or the word may be derived from the British Tavuys, which implies " a gentle
stream."

We find, however, that the name is not confined to rivers or places in our own kingdom,
and therefore is not " so plainly British." In Hungary, the river Temes runs into the
Danube. Stephanus, in his work " De Urbibus," mentions the city and river Tamese, in
Italy : — " 'V' yaf j<«< T:»id.s<rn, voXis irxXixs xxt vorai^os." Polybius also refers to it as Teinese.
Tlie principal town of the Brutii was called Temesa : Pliny mentions it as Temsa, sometimes
named by the Greeks, Temese. Temese, or Tamasa, was also a city of Cyprus, famous for
brass, and is mentioned by Homer :^" Ey Tifjutmy iaitx ^xXxot." It is also alluded to by Strabo,
Ovid, and Statius, as Tamasis, Tamasa, Tamese, and Temesa.

The definition of the original meaning of the word is not material in corroborating any
point of the argument we have in view, as it appears more like an adopted, than a pri-
mitive term: we will, however, now briefly recapitulate the premises on which we have
based our opinion. It is apparent that the upper portion of the river is mentioned, in the
earliest MSS., by a distinct designation from that of Tamesis : — that the single allusion to it
in the records of Malraesbury Abbey, is not by any means conclusive of the general fact ;
more particularly, as it is well known that in ancient writings the copying of names was
frequently left to the judgment of the scribe, and in very many instances, through elisions
and omissions, tiiey have been rendered extremely dlflicult even to decipher, and conse-
quently it becomes very hazardous to deduce any facts from a solitary instance of MS. ortho-
graphy ; the same inferences may be also drawn from the application of tjbe word Temys,
added to the remarks we have before brought forward respecting the use of the term, by the
historians recounting the passage of Ethelwold and Canute. The erroneous quotation like-
wise from William of Malmesbury, " cujus vocabulum Temis, &c." as cited by Camden's com
mentators, instead of " quod appellatur Temys," whether intentional or otherwise we pre-
tend not to say, alters to a certain degree the signification ; as the appellative " appellatur
does not define the name so distinctly as the word " vocabulum," and Temys is more that
probably written in the MS. with an abbreviatory mark for Temyse., as the terminal vowels, in
writing names, were often omitted, the final consonant being only marked. That the com-
pound word Tamesis does not originate from " poetical fiction," must be acknowledged, from
the various historical accounts we have quoted ; and that the marriage of Isis and Thame, and
other " fanciful allusions," were adopted irom historical facts, and not the facts from poetry,
and that therefore " it caimot be safely affirmed, it never occurs under the name of Isis."
As to the common people, from its head to Oxford, calling it by no other name than that
of Thames, we know not what the " good people" might have termed it m the days of
Bisliop Gibson, but from personal knowledge we can vouch, that at present Isis stream is
3.

6 THE THAMES.

synonymous with that of Thames ; the inhabitants in the vicinity of the river making use of
both designations, but more commonly that of Isis, even below Oxford.

We have, we trust, satisfactorily proved, that the modern word Thames is a corrupted
abbreviation of Thamisis, or Thamise, and if spelt, as in German, TJiemse^ would have better
exemplified the original orthography. Many of our readers, we fear, will be apt to exclaim
with Juliet, " What's in a name ?" and we confess the dissertation, perhaps by some deemed
desultory and prolix, has lengthened to a greater extent than we had at first anticipated;
differing, however, in toto ccelo, with all the later authorities, it required considerable research
and quotation to substantiate our grounds of opposition, more particularly as the opinion
which we have now revived has been so often previously denounced as " vulgar," " evi-
dently erroneous," *' absurd," " visionary," and " without any foundation," &c. These
expressions, though strong, and to many conclusive, have arisen, we apprehend, from one or
other of the causes assigned by Holinshed, that " dyvers doe ignorauntlye call it Thames,
even at the source, rather of a foolishe custome than of any skilly because they eyther neglect
or utterly are ignoraunt how it was named at the first"

Having endeavoured to elucidate the name of this Sovereign of British rivers, we must
now invoke the genius of the stream to assist us in the arduous task of tracing the meanders
of this favoured son of Ocean, and of displaying all the beauties of pastoral and woodland
scenery, stately dome and Gothic spire, that enrich its banks through the various counties
watered by its flood ; that flood which has so often witnessed the chivalrous deeds of early
British heroism, and been dyed with the blood of the Roman, Saxon, Dane, and Norman :
and though the glorious struggle for native liberty was for a time suppressed, yet has it ulti-
mately burst forth with irresistible power, bestowing on our island the proud designation of
« The Land of Freedom."

The numerous garlands and chaplets, blooming fresh with flowers culled from Parnassus,
which have been entwined round the temples of father Thames, are so familiar to the general
reader, as to render almost trite any reference or quotation ; yet, in attempting to describe
the river's source and tributary streams, we cannot refrain from extracting that elegant and
poetical allusion made by Pope to our favourite god : —

" From his oozy bed

Old father Thames advanced his rev'rend head.
His tresses dropp'd with dews, and o'er the stream
His shining horns diffused a golden gleam :
Graved on his urn appear'd the moon, that guides
His swelling waters and alternate tides:
The figured streams in waves of silver roll'd,
And on his banks, Augusta, robed in gold;
Around his throne the sea-born brothers stood,
Who swell with tributary urns his flood :
First, the famed authors of his ancient name.
The winding Isis and the fruitful Thame."

THE THAMES.

Like the source of tlie Nile, and the natal city of Homer, the honour of giving birth to
the infant spring of the Thames has been claimed by different districts both of Gloucestershire
and Wiltshire. A limpid spring, in the neighbourhood of Cricklade, and not far from
Malmesbury, has by some been denominated " Thames' Head ;" others have asserted, that
the streams flowing by Swindon and Highworth are entitled to the distinction; and many
again have maintained that the Churn, which rises from seven wells in Gloucestershire, also
termed Thames' Springs or Heads, and passing Cirencester in a south-easterly direction,
joining the Isis near Cricklade, is the primitive river. Dr. Campbell, in his Political Survey
of Great Britain, states the sources to be four rivulets, rising in different parts of the Cotes-
wold Hills, — the Lech, Coin, Churn, and Isis ; which, having skirted Wiltshire and united
their waters in one channel near Lechlade, form a deep and copious stream. This remark
is perfectly correct, with the exception that the three former rivers are tributary to the Isis,
lending merely their influence to swell the current of the parent stream ; as their course
being extremely devious, branching widely to the right and left, leaves the more direct and
upper portion of the country to be traced by their sovereign Isis. But, it must be acknow-
ledged, that though the county of Gloucester justly commands precedence in producing
the honoured spring, yet it is in Wiltshire that the river first becomes navigable, and conse-
quently of importance.

In Trewsbury meadow, in the parish of Cotes, on the confines of Gloucestershire, about
a mile from the village of the same name, not far from Tarlton, and a quarter of a mile from
the ancient Ackman street, or Bath fosseway, still the main road from that city to Cirencester,
is situated " Thames or Isis' Head :" the spring bubbles forth in a confined vale, from amidst
a layer of loose flat stones, of the oolitic series, distinguished by the provincial name of
Stone-brash or Corn-grate, and surrounded by a limited range of pastoral scenery. The
numerous little fountains rise in infantine playfulness, four to five inches in height, at the foot
of some rising ground planted with picturesque shrubs and trees. This emhience bears the
vestiges of a Roman encampment, which appears to have consisted of a double fosse, known
as Trewsbury Castle : in all probability a Roman station, as it is only three miles from
Cirencester, which was occupied by the Romans ; Pliny mentioning this city as Corinium, and
Antoninus, in his Iter Britannicum, as Duro- Comovium. Several Roman coins and tesse-
lated pavement have been found in the neighbourhood. By the Britons it was called
Cymceastre, and was, during the Heptarchy, a city of Mercia. Mr. Peacock, in an able and
highly classic poem, entitled " The Genius of the Thames," has placed, in happy antithesis,
the incipient and final course of the river; depicting at the same time, with considerable
truth, feelings almost allied to veneration, which naturally arise on beholding the rural and
sequestered spot to which our majestic Thames owes its origin :

Let fancy lead, from Trewsbury mead.

With hazel fringed, and copsewood deep;
Where, scarcely seen, through brilliant green.

Thy infant waters softly creep.

S THE THAMES.

To where the wide-expanding Nore
Beholds thee, with tumultuous roar,

Conclude thy devious race ;
And rush, with Medway's confluent wave.
To seek, where mightier billows rave.

Thy giant Sire's embrace.

Thames ! when beside thy secret source.
Remembrance points the mighty course,

Thy defluent waters keep ;
Advancing, with perpetual flow,
' Through banks still widening as they go,

To mingle with the deep;
Emblem'd in thee, my thoughts survey

Unruffled childhood's peaceful hours.
And blooming youth's delightful way

Through sunny fields and roseate bowers;
And thus the scenes of life expand.
Till death draws forth, with steady hand,

Our names from his capacious urn ;
And dooms alike the base and good
To pass that all-absorbing flood

O'er which is no return."

The line of country where " Isis' Head riseth," forms a continuation of the Coteswold,
or chain of hilly doAvns, famous for their sheepwalks and long-wooled sheep ; indeed, there
is a prevailing tradition, that the Spaniards originally procured their breed of fine-wooled
sheep from hence, though the point is contested by many modern writers. Drayton, how-
ever, in his Poly-Olbion, only awards to these wolds one excellence : —

'^t Cotswold, be this spoke to th' onely praise of thee,
mat thou of all the rest, the chosen soyle should bee,
Paire Isis to bring forth, the mother of great Tames,
With whose delicious brooks, by whose immortal streames.
Her greatnesse is begun."

The stream having trickled with feeble strength through grass and sedge for a quarter
of a mile, in nearly a straight direction, is assisted by the contribution of another spring
flowing from a large hollow or basin in the open mead ; when, diverging a few yards to
the right, it pa -ses underneath the Cirencester road, through a narrow arched watercourse,
and entering the parish of Kemble and county of Wilts, pursues through the mead its
gentle current for the space of about fifty yards, and is met by a sister spring, rising in
various small jets d^eau, from a well on the left ; the situation of which is not marked with
any other feature of landscape than the cultivated uplands and square tower of Cotes church
appearing in the back ground, with an expanse of meadow intersected by the high road. Oc
the right are a few trees, with a Avail of loose stone, " Corn-brash,^' beneath which, througa
iron gratings, the stream seeks its union with the main rivulet ; and close on the left extends

THE THAMES. P

the formal bank of the Thames and Severn Canal, and by some this place is erroneously
designated " Thames' Head." These streams, " tria juncta in uno" proceeding a short
distance, arrive at another well, a much more copious spring than the other three, where a
small reservoir and aqueduct are formed, in order to supply the neighbouring steam-engine
pump, which throws an immense body of water into the canal during the dry months of the
year, to prevent the liability of the navigation becommg impeded. The engine, which k
equal to the power of one hundred and forty horses, has been erected about thirty-six years^
and draws, it is estimated, sixty hogsheads of water every minute. The view from the bank,
as well as from the rising ground on the opposite side, affords an agreeable rural scene, with the
tapering spire of Kemble church embowered in rich and verdant foliage, which the annexed
ongraving pleasingly delineates. The bridge near here, with its single arch, is called " Thames'
Head Bridge," and bears the same character with the other numerous bridges built over the
canal; and as the Thames and Severn Canal has been the subject of much public attention,
and traverses on the left the same direction as the Isis, a short detail of its construction and
utility will not, we trust, be deemed uninteresting.

The union of the " fair Sabrina," or Severn, and the " lordly Thames," was for a suc-
cession of years a favourite theme of speculation on the part of the London and Bristol
merchants. During the reign of Charles the Second, a bill was introduced into the House of
Commons to effect this desirable object; and Mr. Joseph Moxon, hydrographer to the king,
and an excellent mathematician, surveyed the ground, with the view of ascertaining the feasi-
bilitv of the undertaking. No practical result, however, at that time ensued, though it
continued the frequent topic of mercantile conversation, more particularly in the districts
through which it was to be directed, as is exemplitied in one of Mr. Pope's letters, written
in the year 1772, to the hon. Mr. Digby, during his stay at Lord Bathurst's, at Cirencester.
The ideas are dictated with that powerful and poetic spirit, which is ever diffused through
-his productions : — " I could pass whole days in only describing the future, and as yet visionary,
beauties that are to rise in these scenes ; the palace that is to be built, the pavilions that are to
glitter, the colonnades that are to adorn them ; nay more, the meeting of the Thames and
Severn, which, when the noble owner has finer dreams than ordinary, are to be led into each
other's embraces, through secret caverns of not above twelve to fifteen miles, till they rise
and celebrate their marriage in the midst of an immense amphitheatre, which is to be the
admiration of posterity a hundred years hence."

In 1730, a canal was formed by act of Parliament, from Framilode on the Severn to Wal-
bridge near Stroud, and called the Stroudwater Canal, a distance of rather more than eight
miles, in which space there is a fall of eight hundred and two feet. By acts of the 22d,
31st, and 36th of George the Third, leave was granted to put into execution the important
plan of bringing the Stroud Canal into junction ^vith the l«is and Thames. In 1782,
several opulent individuals in London, chiefly merchants, engaged the nble and intelligent
engineer, Mr. Robert Whitworth, to make a draught and estimate of the expenses ; and
in 1783, when the act was finally obtained, it was specified that the sum of £ 130,000 would be
sufficient to complete the work; but that, in case of emergency, the sum of £60,000 was to
4.

10 THE THAMES.

be raised on mortgage. The citizens of the metropolis, sanguine in the success of the enter-
prise, subscribed the requisite amount ; and so zealous were many in the cause, that the
connexions of one mercantile house alone contributed £23,000, and others £10,000. In
less than seven years the canal was completed, and on the 19th of November, 1789, the first
vessel passed from the Severn into the Thames, amidst the acclamations of a large assemblage
of people, attracted not only by the novelty of the sight, but in order also to witness the im-
portant accomplishment of a scheme deemed for many years visionary, that of uniting the
two principal rivers of the khigdom ; the result of which, in conjunction with the various
canals branching in all directions through the country from a common centre, they hailed
as the joyful harbinger of considerable advantage to themselves and their posterity. A com-
munication thus opened with Wales, Bristol, Gloucester and Shrewsbury, bringing into
connexion the canals of Staffordshire, Shropshire, Warwickshire and Oxfordshire, offered
sufficient grounds on which a lucrative return for the original outlay might have been
reasonably calculated ; but we fear these anticipations have not latterly been realised, as the
amount of the dividend has now become extremely limited.

The formation both of this and the Stroudwater Canal met with numerous obstacles prior
to their completion, as well from interested parties as from natural causes. The water, in
its course from Stroud through the beautiful and luxuriant vale of Chalford to Sapperton, or
Salperton, a distance of seven miles three furlongs, is raised, by means of twenty locks, two
hundred and forty-one feet three inches. At Sapperton, the country becoming hilly, a sub-
terranean channel or tunnel was cut through Sapperton Hill, extending four thousand three
hundred yards, or about two miles and three-sevenths : in making the excavation, the hill
was found to consist chiefly of stone, and considerable time and expense was incurred in
blasting it. The passage was eventually effected by Mr. Clowes, the acting engineer, on the
20th April, 1*789. The tunnel is fifteen feet in breadth, and two hundred and fifty feet below
the highest portion of the hill ; with an arch of masonry at the top, and an inverted arch at
the bottom, except where the rock rendered it unnecessary. The cost was about eight
guineas the cubic foot. From hence the canal pursues a devious course through Gloucester-
shire and Wiltshire to Ingelsham, near Lechlade, a distance of twenty miles three furlongs ;
during which the water falls one hundred and thirty feet six inches, and is upheld by four-
teen locks. The general width of the canal at top is forty-two feet, thirty feet at the bottom,
and five feet in depth. The banks and towing-paths are made from the soil dug out of the
canal, having warehouses, with cranes, placed at convenient distances. A branch connects
the navigation with the city of Cirencester. The barges are generally twelve feet broad,
eighty feet long, and draw, when freighted, about four feet water ; their burden being about
seventy tons. The whole length of the canal is thirty miles, and seven and a half chains ;
which, added to the length of the Stroudwater, makes the distance from the Severn to the
Isis about thirty-nine miles.

The exhaustion of all the neighbouring springs and drains, by the constant suction of the
steam-pump, renders " Thames' Head," and the other tributary streamlets, perfectly dry in
summer ; the course of the winter rivulet being only discovered through the dell by the

THE THAMES. 1 I

spilge weeds, and ranker species of ^ass: during the wet and rainy months, however, all th<»
springs burst forth, and their rills are often even swelled into floods, overflowing the ad-
joining meadows.

We will now leave the engine and reservoir, and retrace, through Kemble meads, the
" marked remains" of the winter's course. For some little distance the grass is quite dry ;
by degrees, water is seen oozing forth, and soon after it assumes a Jiuvial form. In this
meadow a (ew large stepping-stones are placed across the streamlet, for the convenience of
passengers to and from Kemble, and in this simple and rustic mode is the passage of the infant
Isis first effected. Soon receiving the seasonable assistance of another rill from the left, and
then the contribution of a fine and limpid stream, whose waters freely rise from a level source
near the canal, the river, flowing over beds of water- cresses, expands into a broader current,
eight to ten feet in width, and one to two feet in depth, with two small wears or dams to check
its swelling tide. Skirting the village of Kemble —

" Where Kemble's vvood>embosoin'd spire
Adorns the solitary glade.
And ancient trees, in green attire.

Diffuse a deep and pleasant shade.
Thy bounteous urn, light murmuring, flings
The treasures of its infant springs.
And fast, beneath its native hill.
Impels the silver-sparkling rill,
With flag-flowers frmged and whispering reeds
Along the varicoloured meads. "

The rivulet bends circuitously to the left, and reaching the high road from Kemble to Cireu-
cester, flows beneath a foot-bridge, from fifty to sixty feet in length, between three small
loose stone piers ; and the annexed wood engraving will convey the picturesque effect of this
primeval bridge erected over the river :

Viewing this e^kly and humble attempt at the construction of a bridge, our memory
vividly contrasts the incipient river timorously gliding beneath these rude and compressed
arches, compared with the mighty volume of water, rushing with irresistible impetuosity

THE THAMES.

through the wide expanse oi those numerous arches, gracefully bending their beautiful
and elliptical forms in architectural splendour across the Thames, — the admiration of the
world. The rivers in England, it may here be remarked, are peculiarly favourable for the
display of this architectural elegance, as the depths are generallyr moderate, and not so wide
as to make ferrying absolutely requisite. Stowe justly remarks, " these structures are ac-
counted amongst our English excellences;" and we seem actuated in this instance with the
same feeling as that of the Romans, who considered the accommodation and safety of the
public so much concerned in the due repair and erection of bridges, that an ofl&cer called
P&ntifex^ like our bridge-master, was especially appointed for their inspection.

The village of Kemble, about six miles distant from Malmesbury, is prettily situated on
a gentle eminence on the northern extremity of the county of Wilts. The manor, at an
early period, was given to the monks of Malmesbury, and is mentioned in Domesday-book
under the name of Kemtle. The church contains a monument of some antiquity, and descri-
bed by Aubrey as follows : " In the south aisle, in an old gothic nich, lies the effigies in
grey marble of a chevalier, mailed and cross-legged; at his feet a woolf: they say his name
was AUam or Hallam, and in this parish is d place yet called AUam's Court." The spiral
steeple of the church, which has long attracted attention as a prominent point of view from
various parts of the surrounding country, was struck by lightning in December 1823, and
80 much shattered by the electric fluid, that it was found necessary to take it down ; since
which, however, it has been re-erected.

The river, passing over the Kemble road, hastily reseeks the adjoining meadows;
pursuing a narrow and irregular current to the hamlet of Ewen, where a small wooden
bridge again crossing it, its stream acquires some degree of force, and traverses uncon-
tined the Ewen road, winding abruptly to the left for a short space, and then taking a
contrary direction, resumes for some length its pastoral course, a few lonely willows partially
relieving the uniformity of the banks, until its waters are, for the first time, brought into
utility by impelling a flour-mill near Somerford. As it is the first instance of one of those
numerous mills, whose useful machinery is put into action by the river, the annexed sketch
wiU not prove uninteresting.

THE THAMES. 13

The whole body of the stream is concentrated on the wheel of the mill, and the waters,
escaping in foamy irritation, soon resume their wonted calmness, flowing peacefully on
throu<Th a continuation of rich pastoral country, interspersed with a few cultivated
fields and uplands. On some rising ground to the left, is situated Somerford-Keynes,
containing, by the census of 1831, 327 inhabitants. It was originally the lordship oi
Ralph de Kaineto or Keynes, who, by marriage, had this manor given him by King
Henry the First, and hence arose the adjunct of the word Keynes to the original name
of the village. We have before noted that a ford existed here in the time of Abbot
Aldelm, towards the close of the seventh century, whicli most Hkely was only available
during the summer or somer months. The church, which is dedicated to All-Saints, rises
prettily amidst the trees, with a square tower, whose comers terminate in small minarets.
The river, at this point, has a small dam across it, to impede the sudden swelling of the
water from the accession of the rising springs or wintry rains. On the right is a small
farmer's house, the first rustic building that decks the banks of the youthful Isis; and
though no comparison can be formed between the humble appearance of this cottage and
those numerous villas, reared with all the wealth and elegance of modern taste, which crowd
the banks of " Thames's stream," yet is its rural simplicity, with the roses growing in wild
luxuriance around the door, far preferable to those vitiated specimens of castellated and
gothic erections, ornamented with close trimmed trees — " Nature by barbarous arts left
spoiled," and leaden Nymphs or Naiades spouting forth a thread of limpid water, which
meet the eye near our metropolis.

A pretty dazied laum before each door,

A circle of three feet, not one inch more ;

Two yellow sentinels of broad sun-flower,

To guard a lattice fringed wth virgins bower ;—

So have we seen, upon a linnet's cage,

The shy and flutt'ring warbler to assuage,

The chickweed and the groundsel thickly spread,

To form a shady covering o'er its head. /

We must for a moment further digress, in order to acknowledge the hospitality
experienced from the inmates of this country abode, and to admonish all tourists to provide
themselves with refreshment before commencing their pedestrian task of tracing the river's
course ; for though in the midst of a country that may be likened to Canaan, flowing with
milk and honey, yet, except at Cricklade, the procuring of animal food is extremely
uncertain, until arriving at Lechlade, a distance of twenty-five to thirty miles.

The river, on leaving Somerford, passes on a short distance, and is employed to work
another mill, called Kemble Mill, an extreme point of that parish extending in this direction.
The Isis, though not more than twelve to fifteen feet in vddtli, has now assumed the decided
appearance of a perennial stream ; and which, after performing vturious serpentine
meanderings, for a space of two or three miles, winds abruptly to the left, and, becoming
much broader but shallower, flows with all the soft stillness of a transparent lake, bordered
5.

14 THE THAMES.

by a cool overhanging copse. The eye, having constantly gazed on an uninterrupted
expanse of meadow, is agreeably relieved with the pleasing variety of foliage. The
scenery is rather confined ; but its sylvan character, with the church and village of Ashton
Keynes, is rendered very picturesque and interesting, — more particularly as it is the first
spot, after leaving the source of the river, that afibrds any pictorial line of beauty. The
village path, which is on the very margin of the stream, leads in about half a mile direct to
Ashton Keynes. The waters are lost here for a short time, in a flour-mill, resuming soon,
however, their current through the village in a circuitous course —

they glide lingering ; loth

To leave such scenes of sweet simplicity."

Ashton Keynes is a very pretty rural village, containing, with the chapelry of Leigh,
1182 inhabitants. The church, which is dedicated to the Holy Cross, is situated at the
end of an avenue of fir-trees, whose bright and verdant tone of colouring form a pleasing
contrast with the white and ancient square tower of the church. The vicarage-house has
a small stone tablet, with an inscription bearing the date 1584. There are also in parts of
the village three remains of crosses, but too much mutilated and defaced by the hand of
time and man to afibrd any correct delineation. One of the causes to be assigned for
their erection may be the dedication of the church to the Holy Cross.

The river, on quitting the village, bends circuitously to the right for two miles through
the meadows, when it approaches a small bridge, called Water Hayes, near which some
shrubs and bushes partially destroy the flat and uniform appearance of the banks. This
rustic bridge is composed of five small stone arches, and is the first elliptical arch that the
Isis glides beneath. The country begins to assume a more interesting character. On the
right we observe a rich and sloping height, over which the road passes, leading from
Malmesbury to Cricklade, and at the foot the silent stream winds in playful turns,
until it arrives at the Thames and Severn Canal, underneath which it finds a subterranean
course through an aqueduct built of brick and stone. The bed of the canal is about six
feet above the centre of the three arches of the conduit, which are narrow and low.
This point may therefore be called the Alpha and Omega of the river ; all commu-
nication with the source here ceasing, and from hence re-commencing. In the
neighbourhood both of the canal and river, as well as on the other side of the town of
Cricklade, which is about a mile distant, the disciples of Isaac Walton can enjoy excellent
trolling. The pike " run large," and have been caught exceeding thirty pounds in
weight.

The Isis now flows tamely on, with the banks of the river Churn approximating on the
left ; and on the right, a little in advance, the borough-town of Cricklade, affording an
interesting view, situated on a gentle declivity, the houses rising one above the other
in picturesque gradation, with the old ivy-mantled church of St. Mary in the fore-
ground, and the lofty and stately tower of St. Sampson on the verge of the rising ground
to the right. Passing the extensive flour-mill, belonging to Mr. Jennor, the river arrives

THE THAMES. 15

at Cricklade Bridge, having completed a devious course for the space of about fifteen

miles.

Cricklade is a town of great antiquity. The name has given rise to much literary doubt
and uncertainty. By the earlier historians it is mentioned as Cricgelada, and sometimes
Creckanford. In a MS. in Trinity-hall Library, cited in the notes on Spelman's Life of
Alfred, it is called Greehislake. In a monkish narrative, entitled " Historiola Oxoniensis,"
it is asserted that the Britons commenced an university, which the Saxons removed to
Oxford ; and in Brompton's Chronicles it is even stated that 632 B.C. certain schools for
Greek were established at Greeklade, but afterwards removed to Oxford or Bellositumy
on account of the " pleasantness of the place." In Mr. Leland's Commentaries,
"de Scriptoribus Britannicis," speaking of King Alfred he says, that on the banks
of Isis it was stated there existed two towns, one called Graecelade or Greeklade,
now corrupted to Cricklade, thus designated on account of the Greek language being
taught by the learned in the tongue, and the other Latinelade, where scholars were
instructed in Latin and the art of Medicine, since altered to Lechlade, but that both
universities were removed at an unknown date to Oxford. The monkish historians
generally corroborate this account, and Sampson, afterwards Archbishop of York, is stated
by Rossus Verovicensis, in his book, "de Academiis Britannicis," following the authority of
Tavanus, to have studied at Grcecolade. The learned Leland, however, himself seems to
have doubted the authenticity of the derivation of these names; Camden and later historians
have perhaps, with justice, treated these etymologies rather as fanciful than original. The
name may have arisen from the Saxon words cpaecca, a brook, and lai>ean, to empty, as both
the rivers Churn and Rey here discharge themselves ; but perhaps there is more proba-
bility, that it is derived from the old British word Cerigwl&d, denoting a stony country ^
which corresponds with the nature of the soil of this district, for we find that the under
stratum of a large portion of North Wilts, in a direction from Cirencester and the
Coteswold hills, consists of a loose irregular mass of flat broken stones, called provincially
corn-grate. The stones are usually found in horizontal beds, mixed with the earth ; in
some places they are thin enough to be applied as slates to cover houses, and in some they
assume the quality and shape of freestone. In general, however, they lie in loose flat
pieces, which are well calculated for building the dry walls so generally used for fences
both in this part of the country as well as Gloucestershire. The top soil of this
corn-grate is chiefly a kind of reddish calcareous loam, mixed with irregular flat stones,
and called usually stonehrash. It runs for some miles, approaching the river both in
Wiltshire, Gloucestershire, and Oxfordshire. In Doomsday Book the town is mentioned
as Crichelade, and also Celetorde, and the church held by the church of St. Peter's
at Westminster. William of Worcester writes, that Cricklade was formerly called
Chelysworth, and that the parish was six miles in circumference. At present the two
tythings of Great and Little Chelworth belong to the church of St. Sampson.

Cricklade, no doubt, has been a place of considerable importance ; and we read in the
Red Book of the Exchequer, that there appertained to it 1300 hide-lands, or about 13,000

Ig THE THAMES.

acres. It now contains 1642 inhabitants, and consists chiefly of one long street. It is
thought by Dr. Stukely to have been a Roman station, from its situation on the Roman
road, which connected Corinium or Cirencester with S^pince, now Spene. It is mentioned
at an early period of our English history, when Ethelwald, the cousin-german of Edward
the Elder, insisting on his preferable right to the throne of his uncle Alfred, raised an
army of Danes and East Anglians, and overran the land of Mercia, until they came to
Cricklade, in 905, where they forded the Thames. In 1015-16, at the close of the reign
of Ethelred, Canute made an incursion into England as far as Wilts and Dorset, and
crossed the river at Cricklade into Mercia ; and a MS. in the Bodleian Library,
mentions the various depredations and cruelties committed at that time in this neigh-
bourhood.

The town is a borough by prescription, governed by a bailiff, who is annually chosen
at the court leet. It first enjoyed the privilege of sending two members to Parliament in
the reign of Edward the First, which it continued to do, with a few intermissions, until
the year 1782, when, owing to some flagrant instance of bribery and corruption, the
elective franchise was, in 1784, extended to the freeholders of the hundreds of Cricklade,
High worth. Staple, Kingsbridge, and Malmesbury. Cricklade is divided into two parishes,
St. Sampson's and St. Mary's.

The church of St. Sampson is a large and ancient structure, built principally of the
corn-grate stone, in a cruciform shape, with a handsome square tower in the centre,
supported by four pointed arches. On the top is an embattled parapet, with ornamented
pinnacles at the angles ; the interior part of the tower is open to a considerable height,
and is decorated with several shields with armorial bearings ; among which are those of
the Nevils, Earls of Warwick, one of whom is said to have contributed liberally towards
the expenses of the erection. On the south side of the church is a chapel built by one
of the Hungerfords, and now the entrance porch. The north aisle is called Widhill aisle,
belonging to the Radnor family. A tablet records the death of Robert Jennor, Esq., in
1651, who founded a free school here. The endowment has since lapsed, and the
building is converted into tenements for paupers. There is also a large and ancient stone
coffin, with a Maltese cross, but bearing no inscription. At the southern base of the
tower, on the roof of the church, sculptured in stone, is the annexed curious and antique
representation of a dragon and " belted knight."

The history of the design is involved in considerable obscurity. An old traditionary
account relates that Cricklade, being surrounded with woods, the inhabitants and neigh-
bouring peasantry were much infested with the sanguinary ravages of a dragon, and
that a "belted knight," in relieving the country from the depredations of this monster,
fell a sacrifice to the chivalrous attempt : or it may have reference to the prowess
and deeds of chivalry performed by Sir Guy of Warwick, one of the heroes of the wild
romance of the days of knight errantry, and whose descendants, as we have before stated,
were instrumental in the erection of the church.

The two crosses, which are also engraved, are vei^ ancient specimens of this early mode

THE THAMES.

of exemplifying the emblem of our religion. The engraving on the right portrays the
cross which formerly stood in the High Street, but has been since removed to the
churchyard of St. Sampson. The top is plain, with double compartments, without any
effigies, and the base only ornamented. The capital of the other is richly embellished
with gothic niches, containing sacred and other representations, some of which are still in
good preservation.

St. Mary's is called the Mother Church, and presents an ancient and venerable appear-
ance. The low tower, covered with ivy, the growth of many ages, has an highly
interesting effect. In the interior, between the nave and the chancel, is an early Saxon
arch with zigzag mouldings.

Tanner, in his " Notitia Monastica," and cited by Dugdale in his " Monasticon,"
states that a hospital was founded at Cricklade, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, under
the government of a warden and prior, early in the reign of Henry the Third, and that it
stood near the bridge. No remains, however, are now extant, but some land belonging
to the hospital, in the parish of St. Sampson, is still called Spital.

Robert Canutus, who flourished in the year 1170, was bom in this town; his name,
however, seems to imply that he was of Danish extraction. He afterwards received his
education at Oxford, and became one of the canons of St. Frideswide's Priory in that city.
He dedicated a work called " The Garland," to King Henry the Second, being " The
Flowers^* or selected parts of Pliny's Natural History, and also wrote commentaries on
the greater portion of the Old and New Testament.

The angler and aquatic tourist will no doubt deem serviceable the mention of the
6.

18 THE THAMES.

different inns on the banks of the river, where the best accommodation is afforded;
we shall, therefore, notice them throughout the present work. At Cricklade, the
Greyhound is an excellent inn.

Cricklade Bridge is constructed of brick and stone, and consists of one broad arch. The
Thames and Severn Canal passes to the north of the town, and previous to its formation,
the first navigation of the river here commenced, barges, carrying from six to seven tons,
being freighted with corn, malt, bacon, &c. Since the opening of the canal, all traffic has
ceased ; and, save the miller's skiff, or fisher's punt, no boat is seen disturbing the peaceful
bosom of the gentle Isis. A few yards beyond the bridge, the Churn affords a copious and
welcome contribution to the parent stream. This river rises at Cubberly, in Gloucester-
shire, about ten miles north of Cirencester, and passing through that city joins the Isis at
this point. The name of the river was anciently written in compound words Cori, Corin,
and Ceri, ; as Caercori, Corinium (now Cirencester), &c. The word is of British origin,
Chwyrn signifying rapid. A short distance in advance, the Rey, which commences near
Swindon, in Wiltshire, lends also its rivulet force to render the Isis navigable.

The river now throws off the languid and sluggish ripple which has hitherto marked its
character, and assumes a more active and rapid pace, indicatory of that intense commer-
,cial life and bustle, which its waters are eventually engaged in. Pursuing its course still
through meadows, it receives a small streamlet called " Stockham Lake," on the left, and
having flowed rather more than a mile from Cricklade, reaches Eisey Bridge, composed of
wood, for foot passengers. On the left, on a pleasing eminence, stands the humble but
picturesque church of Eisey, dedicated to St. Mary. The parish is small, containing, with
the township of Water Eaton, only 167 inhabitants. The stream, wandering through
continued pastures, with numerous cattle, consisting principally of the fine long-woolled
Cotswold or Leicestershire sheep, and the long-horned and Gloucestershire breed of cows,
grazing on the banks, forms, about a mile distant, an inlet, termed the Cow's Neck, from
the similarity of its shape, and where the water being too deep to allow the use of the
casting net, a mode of taking fish much adopted in this district of the river, becomes a
kind of preserve for, the larger portion of the "finny tribe," especially pike. The spot
therefore affords good sport to the angler. A fisherman resident at Cricklade, has,
however, a novel mode of securing the fish, superseding the use of rod, line, hook, and net.
The water having excavated the lower part of the bank, and created holes and crannies,
the fish lodge themselves therein. The man dives into the water, and by this subaqueous
method catches the fish with his hand. We not only heard the story, " strange though
true," from the individual himself, but had the fact corroborated by respectable eye
witnesses.

Before reaching the next village of Castle Eaton, the width of the river has rather
increased, and its banks become more sheltered by foliage. Near the bridge, comprising
six small stone arches, composed of corngrate, two islets have been made and planted
with alders and willows, and a fresh direction thus given for a short space to the river.
The islets, though artificial, are pleasing to the eye, as being the first to assist in breaking

T>^^

'1 c

DIE MUBLT ZU KEMFSFORD.

■ MmrziNVE KSMPs^osv.

Pu"ljli£"hed"h^W. ToiT-.'blcson & Co:tip;iIi.tenioaietiVrf

■.dow, wb

THE THAMES. 19

the dull uniformity of the stream's surface, and thus rendering the prospect more
rural. On the right, close to the bridge, is a large meadow, where a castle in olden times
reared its proud and lofty walls, and, according to Leland, when he made his Itinerary
towards the close of the sixteenth century, " greate ruines of a building yet remayne
on the Isis at Eiton, the Lord Zouche's castelle, and called Eitou Castelle," and
whence the present name has arisen. Within these thirty years, the few ancient and
mouldering stones which continued to mark the site of the»erection, have been removed
and otherwise appropriated, and the spot is now merely occupied by a bed of thistles.
The neat little village of Castle Eaton contains 302 inhabitants ; and its church, dedicated
to St. Mary, has a low square tower.

The river, which has now widened to the extent of fifty or sixty feet, sweeps boldly to
the left, through the meadows ; and then, bending towards the right, flows, within a
short distance, parallel to the canal, for two miles, until it arrives at Kempsford.
Before reaching this village the river regains its native county of Gloucester, and
continues for a few miles, between the two shires of Wilts and Gloucester. The
pasturage that borders the Isis, during its course through North Wilts, is exceedingly
rich, and has given rise to the adage, " That an ox left to himself, would, of all England,
choose to live in the north of Wiltshire." The meadows of Gloucestershire, which here
nearly unite and assimilate with those of Wiltshire, are equally exuberant in dairy
produce. By the earlier chronicles, the county is reported to have been as fruitful as the
land of Gerar, wherein Isaac sowed and reaped an hundredfold ; and " the pasturage
so rich, that, in spring time, let it be bit bare to the roots, a wand laid along therein,
over night, would be covered with new grown grasse by the next morning." This part of
the country was also formerly thought, from its fecundity, to be more favoured by God's
presence than any other; it had, likewise, more mitred abbeys and sacred edifices
than any other two shires, whence arose the ancient proverb of, " As sure as God's in
Gloucestershire."

The village of Kempsford, in Gloucestershire, contains 800 inhabitants. The church,
which is dedicated to St. Mary, consists of a nave, with a lofty and handsome square
gothic tower, and is prettily situated on a slight acclivity, near the margin of the
river, presenting a commanding and interesting object to the neighbouring country.
It was erected partly at the expense of Henry Duke of Lancaster, in the fourteenth
century, whose arms, with those of Edward the Confessor, and the cognizance of the
houses of Clare and Plantagenet, are displayed upon the capitals of the columns which
support the roof. The name of the place was anciently written Chenemeresford, Chene
or Ky7i, signifying, in a compound word, great or principal, — Mer denoting a sea or large
water, and Mere also a boundary. The name, therefore, implies the ford of the principal
river or great boundary, which the Isis may be justly denominated in this part of the
country. The manor was, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, the property of Earl
Harold, but was afterwards granted by the Conqueror to Hernulf de Heseling, a Norman
soldier, who had accompanied him to England. After some years it came, by marriage.

20 THE THAMES.

into the possession of Henry Earl of Lancaster ; and his son, Henry Duke of Lancaster,
occupied here an extensive mansion, " whose walls were washed by Isis' purhng stream."
Owing, however, to the unfortunate death of his only son, which took place at Kempsford,
he quitted the village, and granted the property, in 1355, to the college of St. Mary the
Great, at Leicester. On his departure, his horse cast a shoe, which the peasantry nailed
over the church door as a memorial of the event, where it now remains. The manor
ultimately devolved to the Coleraine family, by whose orders the mansion was levelled
with the ground, towards the close of the last century, and the materials purchased by
Mr. Loveden, of Burscott Park, near Lechlade, who used them in the structure of the
present elegant house belonging to that family. The outer walls, by the side of the
river, as well as the entrance porch and gateway, are yet standing, and also the stabling and
out-houses, which are used for farming purposes and a dwelling. The mansion, or palace,
was a quadrangular building of considerable dimensions, in the style of the ornamented
architecture prevalent in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Near the river is a
picturesque mill, in a dilapidated state, and forms the subject of the accompanying en-
graving. It was erected by the farmer, who resides on the premises, for his private use.

Bigland observes, there is a well founded tradition that Kempsford was the site of
a royal palace in the Saxon times, and that the Chaworths and Plantagenets resided here
in their castle. The vicinity, also, by some authors, is supposed to have been the place
where a battle was fought, about the year 800, between Ethulmund, chief of the Wiccii,
or inhabitants of Gloucestershire, and Werstan, Earl of Wiltshire ; Ethulmund is
reported to have crossed the river at this ford. Rudder, however, with more probability,
thinks that this hostile meeting took place at Cummersford, near Calne, where large
entrenchments still remain. Both Generals were killed, but the men of Gloucestershire
were victorious. The river Coin passes through part of the village.

The river having skirted the village, winds circuitously to the right, and flowing for a
mile and a half, reaches Hannington Bridge, one extremity of which is situated in the
county of Wilts and the other in Gloucester ; it is constructed of wood, with three
arches on stone piers, the centre of which is considerably the largest. The village,
containing 415 inhabitants, is on the confines of Wiltshire, and retired from the stream^
From hence, and the neighbourhood, a considerable quantity of the different kinds of
North Wiltshire cheeses are transported to London by the canal barges as well as
waggons. A distant but pretty view is obtained of the town and church of Highworth,
in Wilts.

The Isis, receiving in the neighbourhood a small brook from the Wiltshire side of its
banks, flows towards Inglesham, a distance of about three miles, owing to the sinuosity of
its course. With the exception of two or three rustic weirs, there are few objects of
attraction, until the waters, expanding and deepening, approach Inglesham, the last place
the river passes in Wiltshire. The country now becomes more enclosed and enriched
with foliage ; and, on the right, the ground is formed into pleasing slopes. The houses of
Inglesham lie scattered a mile inland from the banks, but the unassuming little church

THE THAMES. 21

stands close to the river, with an old belfry, remarkable from the peculiarity of its
form. The whole parish comprises only 133 inhabitants. The river, after rounding to
the right, bordered by tall and shadowy trees, inclines again to the left, and arriving at the
confines of Berkshire and Wiltshire, quits for ever the county of Wilts. It now sweeps
boldly to the right, and passes on the left the large flood-gates of the Thames and Severn
canal with a singular circular building on its banks, in which the lock-keeper and watchman
reside ; a slight wooden bridge is also thrown over the canal, forming altogether a pleasing
group. From hence the navigation of the Isis may be said to commence, and a free
communication opened with the metropolis. The river in its course to Lechlade, a
distance of about a mile, increases its body of water, both in width and depth, as well by
the accession of the river Colne, as by the care and attention paid in clearing the weeds, and
preventing any obstruction to the passage of barges, which carry generally a freight
of from fifty to seventy tons. The frequent scarcity of water however in the summer
months, and the consequent shallowness of the stream, added to the floods during winter,
have rendered the navigation of these upper districts of the river very precarious, and
deprived the towns and villages of many advantages which they might otherwise be
supposed to derive from their locality.

The river Colne, celebrated for the number and size of its trout, rises near Brockhampton
in Gloucestershire, and passing Sevenhampton, Withington, Foss-Bridge, Bibury, Coin
St. Aldwin's, and Fairford, unites with the main stream near the junction of the Thames
and Severn canal. In the neighbourhood of the latter town of Fairford, the fly fisher
can procure very excellent sport. As we approach the town of Lechlade, the tapering
spire of the church, the bridge, and surrounding country, present an interesting and
picturesque prospect.

Leachlade, or Lechelade, was constituted a market town by Richard, Earl of Cornwall,
brother to Henry the Third, and is situated on the borders of Gloucestershire and
Oxfordshire, and near the conflux of the river Lech. This river rises in the parish of
Hampnet, in the Coteswold district of Gloucestershire, and, flowing by Northleach and
Eastleach, forms an union near here with the Isis. The name of the town originates in
the word Lech, an old British term, signifying a stone, from the cold and petrifying nature
of the waters of this stream, and Lade, a contraction of the Saxon word la'^ean, to empty.
This derivation is much more reconcileable to reason than the constrained etymology
adduced by the monkish fathers of Latinelade, which we have alluded to when speaking of
Cricklade. The parish, including the hamlet of Linhill, in Oxfordshire, contains 1,244
inhabitants. The town and manor of Lechlade was, at the date of Doomsday Book, the
property of Henry de Ferreres, — " Henricus de Ferreres tenet Lecelade; tenuit Siuuard
Bar :'* — and stated as having a fishery for cc anguillae or eels, minus xxv. This is the
Baron Siward, of whom the following fabulous account is related: The daughter and
heiress of an earl of the royal blood of Denmark, while walking in a wild forest, was ravished
by a bear, and bore a son with ears like his father. This son of a hear succeeded his mother
in the earldom, and was father of Siward, who, quitting Denmark, came to England,
7.

22 THE THAMES.

where he was hospitably received by King Edward the Confessor. In a quarrel with
Tofti, Earl of Huntingdon, Siward slew him and carried his head to the king, who, in
reward, gave him the earldom of Huntingdon and Northumberland, and made him governor
of the northern counties, and, among other grants, he came into possession of the town
and manor of Lechlade.

Henry Ferreres was ancestor of Ferrers, Earl of Derby, by whom, on the marriage of
Lady Isabel, an heiress, the manor and town were conveyed to Roger Mortimer, progenitor
of the Earls of March. Afterwards reverting to the crown, it was given in 1252 by
King Henry the Third to his brother, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and Senchia his
wife, on the death of whose son it again came into the possession of the crown ;
and passed in succession through the families of Talbot, De Spencer, Holland, and
Grey, until granted by Edward the Fourth to his mother Cicely, duchess of York.
It afterwards became part of the dowry of Catherine of Arragon, on her marriage
with Henry the Eighth, but has since descended into the possession of the family
of Sir Jacob Wheate, and latterly of Mr. Churchill. Leland, in his Diary, says, " Lechlade
is a praty olde towne, and hath a pratie pyramis of stone at the west ende of the
church." The church, now dedicated to St. Lawrence, was formerly sacred to St. Mary,
and was rebuilt, during the reign of Henry the Seventh, at the joint expense of the vicar,
Conrade Ney, the priory of St. John, and the inhabitants. It is a handsome building, in
the pointed style of architecture, embellished with grotesque heads and figures, as prevalent
in the fifteenth century. The nave is spacious, with double aisles, supported by two rows
of light fluted columns. At the west end is a square embattled tower, terminated by a
well-proportioned spire. A substantial stone bridge, composed of five arches, unites the
town with the county of Berkshire, and is the first structure crossing the Isis that bears
the character of being erected for traffic and durability. The annexed engraving, taken
from the Berkshire side of the river, embraces the town, church, and bridge, which are the
only objects worthy of note. Towards the close of the last century, a subterranean room
of large dimensions was discovered in a meadow near the town, which appeared to have
been a Roman bath. It was supported by pillars of brick, curiously inlaid with composition
of various colours. At the New Inn very comfortable accommodation is afibrded, and
good trolling obtained in the vicinity.

In 1784 a canal was projected from Lechlade to Abingdon, which was to have passed
near Buscot, Eaton Hastings, Farringdon, Hinton, Longworth, Fyfield, and Marcham,
but the measure was successfully opposed in the House of Commons, by parties interested
in other speculations of the same nature.

St. John's Bridge, which is accounted one of the earliest erections across the Isis, is
about half a mile distant from Lechlade. The river, before it reaches the bridge, has
been divided, in order to assist the navigation ; and a canal or cut formed to the left,
with a lock or flood-gates — the first we meet with on the stream. The main current
pursues its course to the right, flowing through two pointed stone arches of rather
singular construction, which compose the ancient bridge ; and the canal passes beneath a

THE THAMES.

flat elliptical arch. The waters now united, forsake their native county of Gloucester, and
become the boundaries of Oxfordshire and Berkshire. Beyond the bridge, a large
meadow lies on the left, where the Priory or Hospital of Black Canons stood, dedicated to
St. John the Baptist, and from whence the bridge received its name, part of the lands of
the priory being appropriated to its repair. The land was given by the Lady Isabel de
Ferrers, in 1245, and the priory most likely established through her munificence, though
Richard, Earl of Cornwall, and his wife Senchia, are generally regarded as the founders ;
but they, in all probability, only completed or improved the hospital, which the Lady
Isabel had commenced. The same lady is also said to have built a nunnery in the
neighbourhood. In 1473 the priory was suppressed, and the revenues applied in
endowing a perpetual chantry of three priests in the parish church of St. Mary,
Lechlade. Leland mentions, — "As I rode over Isis, at the very end of St. John's
bridge, on the right hand, I saw a cliapelle in a medow and great enclosures of stone
waulles. Heere was, in hominum memorid, a priory of Blake Chanons. When this
priory was suppressed, there were three cantuaries erected in the church of Lechlade, and
there remained, until of late days one Underwood, dean of Wallingford, found means that
two should be removed to Wallingford College." Some of the foundation-stones of the
priory have lately been dug up near the bridge, but at present there are no visible remains
of the hospitaL

The river, soon bending to the right, forms various playful curves, and the banks,
though more compressed, afford a pleasing prospect of the village of Buscot in Berkshire,
containing 416 inhabitants, and formerly called Burwardscott or Burscott, with the church
rearing its square and turreted tower amidst rich and green foliage, and some interesting
views of the bridge and spire of Lechlade. The stream, passing the pretty vicarage house,
inclines to the left, and seeks a more direct course, until its progress is impeded by the
rustic and picturesque lock and weir of Buscot, the latter of which is represented in
the accompanying sketch. It is the first instance of the lock and weir being thus in

connexion, and exemplifies the general character of the means employed on the Isis of
retarding the flow of water. On the right, the delightful undulating grounds of Buscot

24 THE THAMES.

Park, with plantations and picturesque groups of trees, gratify the sight; the family seat
of Mr. Loveden occupying a delightful situation enveloped in trees. The remains of
the palace at Kempsford were employed, as we have before mentioned, in the erection of
the present mansion. The estate of Buscot Park was purchased from the family of the
Stonors in 1557, by Walter Loveden, in the possession of whose descendants it still
remains. It is asserted, that in the title-deeds, dated the twenty-ninth year of the reign
of Edward the Fourth, the river, which forms a boundary to the grounds, is described as
the Thames, and this circumstance has been strongly urged as an exemphfication that the
name Isis was imaginary, and not historically correct. The faets, however, we have
adduced to the contrary will, we trust, be deemed a sufficient confutation of this erroneous
opinion, as this allusion merely proves the general, not the identical or authentic appellation
of the upper district of the river. We must here observe that the name of the late
worthy owner of Buscot Park deserves to be enrolled in the annals of the Thames and Isis,
as one of the most active and intelligent Commissioners of the Thames Navigation, and
principal promoter for carrying into execution the Thames and Severn canal ; and as a
member of Parliament, he was the zealous Chairman of the Committee appointed by the
House of Commons, in 1793, " to inquire into the progress made towards the amendment
and improvement of the navigation of the Thames and Isis, in consequence of the several
acts passed for that purpose, and also of the state of the trade of the said rivers." Owing
to this investigation and report, an act was passed in 1795, explaining and amending those
of 1771 and 1775, and giving new powers to improve the Thames. Since which, the navi-
gation has been materially facilitated, particularly by the removal of shoals, and the building
of new locks. Much, however, remains to be done ; the communication with the metro-
polis being still tedious and uncertain, particularly for the larger description of barges.

Leaving the wooded slopes of Buscot, the banks of the stream become more level, with
an expanse of rich meadow on either side; and after various meanders, the distant
hills of Farringdon rise in view, which, with the cultivated land in the neighbourhood,
aided by the picturesque weir of Eaton Hastings, convey no unpleasing idea of the
placid and rural beauties of English landscape. Eaton Hastings occupies a retired
situation remote from the water, and contains only 167 inhabitants. The village of
Kelmscott borders the river on the opposite bank, with a population of 140. The
church, dedicated to St. George, with its ancient tower, is almost entirely concealed by the
number of trees which surround it. A large family house, now somewhat dilapidated,
which belonged to Mr. Turner, stands near the stream, shaded by tall and stately elms. As
the river advances, the banks become more sheltered with shrubs and hedges, and the
prevailing flatness is agreeably relieved. The little village of Heighton, in Berkshire,
skirts prettily a portion of the stream ; and the small chapel, situated among the trees,
assumes more the appearance of an humble dwelling than a place consecrated to the Deity.
The commanding heights of Farringdon, as the river proceeds, and the hill richly crowned
with a verdant cluster of wood, constantly attract attention ; and some of the sudden turns
which its course forms, display many interesting and varied points of scenery. The

THE THAMES. 25

strong and ancient bridge of Radcot, formerly called Ratcote, is now observed, on
approaching which, part of the river is diverted into another and broader channel in order
to assist the navigation, and which was carried into effect in 1787. The old and deserted
course continues its current, slowly and sullenly to the right, through the three
original arches of the bridge, as portrayed below. The navigable branch is directed to

the left, over which one arch is extended. The building of the bridge and construction
of the arches bear the character of considerable antiquity, and it is, doubtless, one of the
earliest erections of the kind over the Isis or Thames; the exact date of its building
however is uncertain, though it appears that a causeway was commenced in the neigh-
bourhood as early as the reign of William the Conqueror, probably by Robert d'Oyley,
who erected Oxford castle. Exclusive of the various beauties of the neighbouring
scenery, the spot is rendered interesting from historical anecdote. Robert de Vere,
earl of Oxford, one of the most distinguished favourites of Richard the Second,
having been created marquis of Dublin and duke of Ireland, excited the jealousy and
envy of some of the more ancient branches of the nobility. The refractory barons
headed by the duke of Gloucester and earl Derby, afterwards Henry the Fourth,
resorted to arms, for the purpose of humbling the king through the destruction of his
favourite. The earl was not backward in opposing their hostile intentions, and the
rencontre took place in 1387 at Radcot Bridge; but his troops being routed, de Vere
saved his life by plunging his horse into the Isis, and swimming to an obscure point of the
opposite bank. He fled the realm, and died about three years afterwards at Louvain.
His body, however, was brought to England by order of the king, and interred with
great pomp at Colne, in Essex, His Majesty attending the funeral in person.

Between the bridge and Farringdon Hill, is Farringdon House, built by Henry James
Pye, the poet laureate, and occupying a very delightful situation. The laureate has
celebrated the beauties of the adjacent country in one of his minor poems, which
possesses more merit than the generality of his works. The old family house was
garrisoned for King Charles during the civil wars ; which Sir Robert Pye, the owner,
who had married Hampden's eldest daughter, and was a colonel in the Parliament army,
attacked with Cromwell's troops ; at the same time the spire of the church was demolished
8.

26 THE THAMES.

by the artillery. There are no remains at Farringdon of the ancient castle : and Leland
mentions, " I asked for the castle that the favourers of Matilda Empress erected at
this place, and King Stephen after pulled down, but they could tell me nought of it."
The prospect from the hill affords a rich extensive view over parts of Berkshire, Oxford-
shire, Wiltshire, and Gloucestershire.

Leaving Radcot Bridge, the river flows silently on, and the banks on either side afford
few points of natural beauty, the country being marshy and level, until on a sudden turn
of the stream we arrive at Clarke s^ Bucks, or Radcot- Weir.

It may perhaps be necessary to explain more minutely the utility and character of
these weirs, without locks, which are frequently met with in the upper districts of the
river. They consist of artificial dams, carried across the stream, in order to confine the
water to a certain height, for the services of the mill, fishery, or navigation. A large
range of framework, which resembles the railings of a bridge, rises from the bottom
of the river, and supports a number of small flood-gates, like square paddles, sliding
in grooves, and connected with a sill at the bottom. When drawn up, or as it is
provincially termed, giving a flash, the whole body of the stream, being collected into
a narrow space, rushes through with great rapidity, and gives a temporary depth to
the water ; by which barges are forced over the shallows. The weirs also, are always
connected with various accessory circumstances, as the mill, the fisherman's hut, or the
cottage of the person who collects the tolls : breaking the line of the river, they
heighten and vary the character of the scene, which is increased by the water in parts
spouting through the apertures of the flood-gates, in others, fretting among the mossy
timbers, or rushing over aquatic plants that cling to the frame-work; and thus, broken into
a thousand rills, continue the current of the river. Clarke's- Weir forms a very
picturesque example of these necessary appendages to the navigation. On the right,
the landscape continues picturesque ; while, on the other bank, the line of country is flat
and uninteresting. The river, after passing a small weir with merely a hut, designated
Old Nans Weir, and forming various curvatures, reaches Rushy- Weir and Lock, where
the stream, gliding between shady trees, pursues its course to the right ; but a cut, or
small canal with a lock, has been made to the left for the convenience of barges. The
coup d'oeil of the islet on which the house of the keeper of the lock is situated, sheltered
with foliage, and the water clear and unruffled, adding to the serenity of the scene,
creates a charming rustic picture. The Isis now makes various windings, and presents
the spire of Bampton Church, in Oxfordshire, frequently to view. Though the town is
removed from the principal course of the river, yet a small branch passes by it. Before
the Conquest, it was a place of some importance ; at present the population of the
whole parish does not exceed 2514. The market is noted for fellmonger's wares,
few towns in England having had so great a trade in leather-jackets, gloves, &c. The
church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a large and handsome cruciform building, with a fine
Norman tower in the centre,, surmounted by a lofty spire. Not far westward from the
church, are the remains of the castle ; no part of which seems to be of earlier date than

THE THAMES. S7

the reign of Edward the Second, when Aymer de Valence, earl of Pembroke, had a
licence to embattle his mansion at Bampton. The parish includes the chapelry of
Shifford, and the hamlets of Aston, Cote, and Chimney. The town Ukewise possesses
interest in being the birth-place of the poet Philips, author of the Splendid Shilling,
and a poem on Cider. The former has the uncommon merit of an original design ;
and the latter, written in imitation of the Georgics, is, as Dr. Johnson justly observes,
a " work of entertainment and science."

The river now soon passes beneath the bridge of Tadpole, composed of one strong
stone arch, of limited span, as the banks, near the village, become more compressed.
A short distance beyond the bridge, is Kent's or Tadpole- Weir. The fine and richly
wooded heights of Buckland are seen rising on the right, ranking amongst the loftiest ^
scenery that borders the Thames, and causing an agreeable change from the uninterrupted
flat and level country, which so much abounds in the upper districts of the river.
The square tower of the church rears its ancient front with much beauty from the deep
green of the surrounding trees, and forms a continuation of the high ground stretching
from Farringdon. This range of hills ascends gradually from the vale of the White Horse,
in Berkshire, which derives its name from the enormous figure of a white horse that
is cut on the side of one of the chalk hills, and supposed to be in commemoration of a
victory obtained by Alfred over the Danes at Ashdown, in the year 871. Buckland
House, the family seat of the Throckmortons, occupies a charming situation amidst a
thicket of stately trees. The house is of stone, built after an elegant design of
Mr. Wood, of Bath, and has, on a nearer approach, the appearance of a Palladian
villa. The parish, with Carswell, contains 946 inhabitants. The river now diverges
from the hilly tract of country, and again directs its course through meadows,
its boundaries being only denoted by a few solitary willows; and for some distance it
lingers among green luxuriant pastures, affording various views of Farringdon hill,
Buckland woods, and Bampton spire, which are the only objects that enliven this
uninteresting portion of the stream. Passing the small hamlet of Chimney, in a
marshy and exposed situation, containing only 42 inhabitants, the river, after numerous
meanders, approaches the chapelry of Shiflford or Sifibrd. In the records of the family
of de Zouche, to whose estate it belonged in the reign of Edward the Second, it is
written Sibford. This was once a place of considerable note ; at present, however, there
are no vestiges to point out the extent or importance of the town ; the whole population
not exceeding 47, and the only remaining church, dedicated to the mother of St. Paul,
is hardly distinguishable from the few humble cottages and houses that surround it.
In a neighbouring meadow was held one of the earliest parliaments recorded in Britain.
From a MS. in the Cottonian library, it appears that at SifTord an assembly of the chief
men of the kingdom was convoked by King Alfred ; and the curious orthography of the
notification merits a verbatim copy. — " There sate at Sifibrd many Thanes many Bishops,
and many learned men, wise Earls, and awful Knights. There was Earl Elfrick, very
learned in the law ; and Alfred, England's herdsman — England's darling. He was King

28 THE THAMES.

of England : he taught them that could hear him, how they shouldi-live :" — we apprehend
could hear him, means could understand him. The manor remained in the family of de
Zouche ; but at the dissolution of the abbeys, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, being
found to appertain to St. Frideswide's at Oxford, it came into the king's possession, who
settled it upon the new college of Christ Church.

The river, gliding on, flows through Shifibrd-Weir, and soon assumes, from its breadth
and expanse, a much more imposing aspect ; a small ait or islet, springing up from the
glassy bosom of the stream, agreeably relieves the uniformity of the waters. The country
on the right is extremely pretty, and the hills in the distance well wooded ; amidst a
portion of which the house of Mr. Simmonds occupies a pleasant site, at Hinton two
miles inland, where there are the remains of a Saxon fort, consisting of a mound with a
deep ditch, and which most likely served as an out-post or watch-tower to the large camp at
Cherbury. After various short and diagonal windings, the stream takes a sharp angular
turn to the left, and presents the appearance of a serene and beautiful lake. The deep
reflection of the hanging coppice on the right afibrds a cool refreshing shade, and imparts
the idea of a rural and sheltered retreat which the eye has sought for in vam through the
open and level scenery which has latterly constantly characterised the margin of the
river. Limbre's-Weir, which is not far distant, is rather picturesquely situated; and
from the compressure of the current, there is generally a fall of water, forming, in the
rainy season, a kind of cascade, and dangerous, without due caution, to the progress of
small boats. The river, after bending to the left, resumes its course to the right, and
arrives at the ancient bridge of New Bridge, composed of seven pointed arches, each
decreasing from the centre. The line of the bridge across the meadows on the
Berkshire side is extended over five, and on the Oxfordshire side, over two arches.

The account given by Leland of this place nearly accords with the present appearance.
He says, " The ground all about Newbridge lyeth in low meadows, often overflown by
rage of rain. There is a large causeway of stone at each end of the bridge." The river
Windrush, which rises near Guiting, among the Cotswold hills in Gloucester,shire, and

THE THAMES. 29

passing by Bourton on the Water, Windrush, and Barrington, enters Oxfordshire,
near Burton, and, flowing through Witney, falls into the Isis near Newbridge. The
waters are of a nitrous quality, and so impregnated with that abstersive salt, that
the blankets manufactured at Witney acquire a degree of whiteness superior to those
made in any other part of the kingdom. The river abounds with trout, pike, and craw-
fish. The village of Newbridge consists only of five or six houses, and afibrds little
accpmmodation to the traveller. The banks of the river, on quitting this place, become
more enclosed and sequestered ; and the several abrupt meanderings of the stream present
the neighbouring landscapes under various pleasing forms. The village of Northmoor
lies on the left, in Oxfordshire, on the verge of an extensive moor, and contains 360
inhabitants. The parsonage house, which was built in 1558, is picturesque. After
reaching Cock's- Weir, little variety of scenery occurs until the arrival at Hart's- Weir, or
Noah's Ark, where the banks become more wooded, and the river is divided into three
separate streams ; between the two broadest is an ait, with a pretty rustic cottage. On one
side is the sluice, through which the water, having attained more body, rushes with
considerable noise ; another branch flows through the open weir, and the third forms a
back-water. Not far distant is a small ferry, and about a mile in advance, Langley-Weir,
from either of which points a direct road leads to Stanton Harcourt, a place " venerable
from its antiquity, classical, as the scene of Pope's poetic studies, and dignified, from its
noble possessors." The manor has remained in the family of the Harcourts for more than
600 years. Queen Adeliza, daughter of Godfrey, duke of Brabant, and second wife of King
Henry I. granted the manor of Stanton to her kinswoman, Milicent, whose daughter,
Isabel, marrying Robert de Harcourt, it assumed, from that period, the name of Stanton
Harcourt; and the deed of gift was afterwards confirmed by King Stephen and Henry II.
The house, chapel, gateway, and other buildings, all bear the character of high an-
tiquity. The house has not been occupied by the family since 1688; — the bailiff, at
present, making use of the habitable rooms. The private chapel, situated at the end of
the house, has two rooms over it, about thirteen feet square. The upper chamber, from
whence a fine view is obtained of the surrounding country, is called Pope's Study ; — Pope
having passed a portion of two summers at Stanton Harcourt, for the sake of retirement ;
and on a pane of stained glass, in the window of the room, he wrote the following

inscriotion : —

" In the year 1718, Alexander Pope
Finislied here the Fifth Book of Homer."

The glass has been since removed to Nuneham Courtenay. As an instance of the Licentia
vatum claimed by those, whose thoughts and conceptions are '* winged through the airy
region of poesy," we would adduce the description, given by Pope, of the large and ruinous
mansion of Stanton Harcourt, in a letter to the duke of Buckingham. Though it is
fraught with that luminous wit for which this celebrated poet was justly deemed pre-
eminent, and written in an amusing and flowing style, yet, in the detail, it deviates
materially from the fact.
9.

30 THE THAMES.

The kitchen is of very early erection, and in its form and general appearance bears some
resemblance to the abbot's kitchen at Glastonbury ; according to antiquarian conjectures,
it was repaired, and the present windows inserted, about the reign of Henry IV. The
building is square, without any chimney, and the walls thirty-nine feet in height. A
winding staircase, in a turret, leads to the roof, beneath the eaves of which are shifting
blinds or shutters, in order to give vent to the smoke, according to the direction of the
wind ; and underneath are numerous tenter-hooks, where the wild boar and bacon were
hung and smoked. The porter's lodge and gateway, which exhibit but slightly the
defacing effects of time, were built by Sir Simon Harcourt, in 1547.

Stanton church is a handsome building, erected in the form of a cross. The
windows in the lower part of the tower are of Saxon architecture, but the upper
and turreted portions appear of later date. The side windows, in the north and south
transepts, are of the lancet form, which prevailed in the reign of Henry III. The church
contains several ancient monuments and tablets, commemorative of the death and titles
of various branches of the Harcourt family. The Harcourt chapel, annexed to the south
wall of the chancel, is a good specimen of the ornamental Gothic, and appears to have been
built about the reign of Edward IV. Among other curious monuments are those of
Sir Robert Harcourt, and his wife, Margaret, daughter of Sir John Byron, and widow of
of Sir William Atherton. Sir Robert was installed a knight of the garter, in the early
part of the reign of Edward IV. His lady has a veiled head-dress, falling back, and the
order of the garter on the left arm, granted her by the king, on the death of her
husband. Likewise the tomb of Sir Robert, grandson of the former, and standard-bearer
to King Henry VII. at the battle of Bosworth. William, earl of Harcourt, and field-
marshal of England, who died in 1830, also lies buried here, and on whose death the title
became extinct.

The mural inscriptions are rendered distinguished by being graced with the lines of
Pope and Congreve. A tablet, on the exterior of the north wall, records a remarkable
circumstance, as mentioned by Gay, in a letter to Pope, dated Stanton Harcourt, 9th
August, 1718. — The inscription runs thus, — "Near this place lie the bodies of John
Hewet and Sarah Drew, an industrious young man and virtuous maiden of this parish,
who, being at harvest work, were in one instant killed by lightning, the last day of
July, 1718." The catastrophe was rendered more pathetic by the parties having been
fondly attached to each other, and on the morning of that very day had obtained the
consent of the parents to their union. Mr. Pope, on hearing of the melancholy occurrence,
wrote the following lines, which are affixed on the tablet as an epitaph, and evince that
the sublimity and inspiration of the Grecian muse did not elevate his mind beyond the
real events of humble life —

" Think not by rig'rous judgment seized,
A pair so faithful could expire ;
Victims so pure, Heaven saw well pleased,
And snatched them in celestial lire.

THE THAMES. 31

" Live well, and fear no sudden fate,
When God calls virtue to the grave ;
Alike 'tis justice — soon or late,
Mercy alike, to kill or save."

" Virtue unmoved can hear the call,
And face the flash that melts the ball."

In the fields adjoining Stanton Harcourt are three monumental stones, known by the
name of the Devil's Quoits, reared to commemorate an engagement fought near Bampton,
in the year 614, between the Britons and Saxons, when the Saxon princes, Cynegil and
Cwhicelon, slew more than two thousand of the natives. The largest of these natural
obelisks is nine feet in height and six in breadth, though it is evident that the size has
been considerably diminished by the effect of the elements. These stones have for ages
been regarded by the peasantry with a degree of superstitious awe. Their rude and
irregular formation attracted attention, and excited the curiosity of the inhabitants, who,
unable to account for their origin, attributed them to supernatural agency ; — and thus has
historical fact been frequently clothed in a mysterious garb, and the powers of reflection,
unaided by education, finding it fruitless to attempt to penetrate the mist and obscurity
that surrounded the object, rested satisfied with the delusion. Hence the belief has been
prevalent, that the powerful arm of Lucifer had hurled, as disks, these immense stones
from Cumner Hills, in Berkshire, about three miles distant, to mark the spot of some
sanguinary event. Frequently, when ploughing or digging for gravel in their vicinity,
Saxon coins, swords, spear-heads, and armour are found.

On leaving Skinner's or Langley-Weir, the landscape bordering the river on "the right
is pleasantly interspersed with wood and cultivated uplands ; but on the left the country
retains its former level character. In the mean time, the stream pursues its silent course
until impeded, at the distance of about a mile and a half, by Pinkie Lock and Weir, to
which no toll-house being attached, it is necessary for the aquatic tourist to be provided
with a winch to open the gates, or much trouble and inconvenience may be otherwise
experienced. The bank on the Berkshire side now displays a delightful line of undu-
lating scenery ; and the height of Cumner Hurst, partly wooded and partly arable, with
various cattle browsing on its highest verge of down, presents a highly picturesque effect ;
and the approximating hills of Wytham, richly covered with foliage, continue the range of
elevated ground. Quitting the Lock, the river becomes more expansive, and its waters
present the appearance of a calm unruflled lake, at the extremity of which a small green-
crested islet arises. The boundaries of the current become much narrower; and soon
after the stream, forming numerous meanders, flows through Ensham Bridge, a handsome
stone structure, erected by the earl of Abingdon about the year 1777.

Cumner Hurst cannot fail to attract the attention, as forming a leading object in
the scenery on approaching Ensham; but being also in the vicinity of Cumner Place,
a much more lively interest is excited, since the magic pen of Sir Walter Scott, in
his delightful novel of Kenilworth, has portrayed in such vivid colouring the sufferings

S2 THE THAMES.

and trials that the lovely and unhappy Amy Robsart, countess of Leicester, experienced
in that place. The name of Cumner has been brought into such general notice, that
it becomes necessary to give a more detailed description than our limited space
will generally admit, more particularly as the place is removed from the banks of
the river. The village vpas originally of great extent ; at present, however, with
different tithings and the chapelry of Wootton, it contains only 1364 inhabitants.
The manor belonged, from an early period, to the opulent abbots and convent of
Abingdon, by whom it appears to have been used as a lazaretto. At the dissolution
of the abbey, Cumner Place was granted by Henry VIII. to Thomas Pentecost, the last
abbot, for his life. It then came into the possession of the notorious Anthony
Forster, who considerably improved the building, and made it his residence. The
Hall House, as it was subsequently termed, occupied a gentle eminence on the south side
of the road, towards the eastern extremity of the village, and abutted on the church-yard ;
but in 1810 the whole structure was pulled down, and part of the materials employed
in the erection of Wytham Church. The principal portions of the house exhibited,
in their architectural features, the style prevalent in the time of Edward III. Its form
was quadrangular, enclosing a court yard. The entrance arch to the Hall is now in the
porch of Wytham Church. At the northern extremity of the west side was a large room,
projecting beyond the line of the other buildings, called the buttery. Over this was a
spacious chamber, the entrance to which was by a pointed arched doorway in the corner of
the quadrangle, opening upon a flight of stone steps, carried round a newel, which led to
an apartment having but one window, the largest in the whole mansion, and which has been
carefully re-erected at the east end of the chancel of Wytham Church. According to
tradition, this was the identical chamber occupied by the countess of Leicester, previous
to her melancholy decease ; — a certain degree of probability was also attached to it, from
the manner in which it communicated with the stairs, corresponding so accurately with
the description given by Ashmole. The whole building had, however, prior to its
total demolition, been for some time in a state of great dilapidation. The church is one
of the handsomest in the neighbourhood, and contains the tomb of Anthony Forster.

Returning to Ensham, we observe that the main road from Oxford to Gloucestershire
passes over several minor arches connected with the bridge, and erected across the
I meadows, which are flooded during the winter months.

THE THAMES. 33

The town is of considerable antiquity, and several Roman remains have been found in
the neighbourhood. It was conquered from the Britons by the Saxon prince, Cuthwulph,
and became afterwards a royal villa. The Saxon name was Egonesham, afterwards
written Eynesham, Einsham, or Eynsham; and Sir Henry Spelman alludes to it as
JEmham. The town is mentioned in the earliest periods of our national history, as a
place of considerable note ; and, in 1005, it acquired an accession of importance from an
abbey founded by ^thelmar, or Ailmer, earl of Cornwall, in honour of the Virgin Mary,
St. Benedict, and All Saints ; the foundation was confirmed by charter of King Ethelred,
*• who signed," says Camden, in the words of the original, " the privilege of liberty with
the sign of the holy cross ;" the town is also styled in the charter, locus Celebris, or,
celebrated place. The king continued to bestow marks of favour on the town, and, in
1009, held a council of state, at which many ecclesiastical as well as civil ordinances were
enacted. The abbey, which was falling to decay, was repaired, and received several
rich benefactions in the time of Henry I. and during the succeeding reigns ; but, at
the dissolution of the monasteries, in 1539, it fell into the rapacious hands of Henry VIII ;
since which it has gradually gone to decay, and the remains now extant give a very
faint idea of its former extent and magnificence.

The present church, dedicated to St. Leonard, is a handsome gothic edifice,
situated near the meadows, about half a mile from the river. Its fine square tower
adds a picturesque effect to the rural and interesting scenery of the neighbourhood ; near
the church is an ancient cross, with an elegant taper shaft. The parish contains 1858
inhabitants, and has an endowed school for fourteen poor children. The air and situa-
tion of the town are reckoned particularly salubrious, and, in consequence, several
respectable seminaries have been established here. On quitting Ensham Bridge, the river
winds to the right, passing through Boldes'-Weir. The country, on the right, is
pleasingly relieved by cultivated acclivities, ascending gradually from the banks ; and the
range of Wytham heights presents a fine display of forest scenery. On the left, rising
above the trees which embower the village of Casshigton, is seen the ancient spire of the
church, which owes its origin to the munificence of Geoffry Clinton, chamberlain to
Henry II. A short distance from the weir, on the left, are two large floodgates, where
the Evenlode unites its current with that of the Isis. This river rises in a parish of the
same name in Worcestershire; and, passing the south-east corner of Gloucestershire,
enters Oxfordshire, when, after a devious and sequestered course, its stream having put
m action several mills, and fertilized the meadows of many a village, passes the confines
of Blenheim Park, where it receives the waters of the Glyme, a rivulet whose name
would have remained unnoticed in history, had it not contributed to form one of the
finest artificial and most ornamental waters in Great Britain. The Glyme commences
its obscure course in the north-western part of Oxfordshire, not far distant from Enstone ;
And, passing through the village of Kiddington, which has acquired a degree of celebrity
from the historical account of the learned Dr. Warton, it flows through Glympton,
Wootton, and Woodstock, into Blenheim Park. Brown, with his usual taste,
10.

THE THAMES.

perceived the propriety of expanding the limits of its confined banks, but of retaining the
original direction and elegant meandering of the stream, which nature had bestowed with
peculiar care, and art could hope in vain to equal. He therefore swelled its trickling cur*
rent into a splendid sheet of water, covering a superficial space of 250 acres, adorning a
park of twelve miles in circumference, and affording relief, lightness, and elegance to a
magnificent structure, which had been previously considered heavy and cumbrous, inducing
modern critics to eulogise this grand architectural effort of Sir John Vanbrugh, in direct
contradiction to the censures of his contemporaries. Brown was so well satisfied with the
effect of his labours, that he has been heard to boast, " the Thames would never forgive
him for what he had done at Blenheim."

The Isis now flows on for the space of about two miles, and, passing King's- Weir, the
width of the stream considerably expands, and its calm surface is dotted over with green
islets of willows. The river, prior to its assuming a rectangular direction, becomes divided ;
a small streamlet, branching to the left, glides by the village of Woolvercott, and unites
with the parent stream, below Godstow; another winds to the right by Wytham and
the chapelry of Seacourt, where its banks originally formed the boundaries of the
Dohmi and Attrehatii, and the altered course of the main stream, bending to the right,
exhibits, for the space of another mile, the luxuriant scenery of the Wytham woods under
a new and more pleasing aspect, until, again contracting its current, it reaches Godstow
or Woolvercott Bridge. Between this spot and Boldes' or Swithin's-Weir, the Isis,
according to Dr. Plott, in his Natural History of Oxfordshire, " gave, in 1674, ample tes-
timony of its abounding with fish. In two days' fishing of M. Maior and the bailiffs
of Oxford, between Swithin's-Weir and Woolvercott Bridge, a space of about three miles,
1500 jacks were caught, besides other fish." We doubt if an equal distance, in any part
of the Isis or Thames, would, at the present day, afford such sport.

The antiquity of Godstow Bridge, added to the gothic simplicity of the two arches
passing over the now neglected stream, and a small islet partially covered by a picturesque
group of foliage, which, in overshadowing the bridge, casts a pleasing and mellow tone of
colouring, contrasted with the grey and time-worn stones of which it is composed,
combines, with the farm-house on the banks, in producing a highly interesting picture^

THE THAMES. 35

the beauty of which is considerably enhanced by the ruins of Godstow Abbey, and the
wooded scenery contiguous to the village of Wytham. In order to assist the navigation,
a canal or cut has been made, running nearer and more parallel with the crumbling walls
^f the abbey than the river, over which an arch has been constructed, making a
continuation of the original bridge.

The remains of the abbey and convent of Godstow, or place of God, are situated in
Oxfordshire, on the island formed by the branch of the Isis which flows by Wytham.
Towards the close of the reign of Henry I., John de St. John gave this parcel of ground
to a religious and inspired matron of Winchester, named Editha, Ida, or Ediva, who,
with the assistance of charitable contributions, erected on it an abbey for Benedictine
nuns, and which was consecrated in the year 1138, to the honour of the Virgin Mary
and St. John the Baptist, in the presence of King Stephen, Matilda his queen,
Theobald, archbishop of Canterbury, and other dignitaries of the Church. King Henry II.
became a distinguished benefactor to the abbey, generally supposed on account of " fair
Rosamond," who was buried here. King John bequeathed a considerable sum for masses, that
the holy sisterhood might relieve by their prayers — "The soules of his father King Henrie,
and of Lady Rosamond ;" and this religious sanctuary seems to have been an object of much
esteem and importance ; for we find that " a remission of forty days was granted to all
those who visited the church in devotion on the days of the Virgin or St. John the Baptist."
At the dissolution of the abbey, the site, with the greatest part of the adjoining estates,
were granted by King Henry VIII. to his physician, Dr. George Owen ; and Hearne
mentions, in one of his volumes of Diaries at Oxford, — " 1718. — The Earl of Abingdon
hath the site of the nunnery now, from the Duke of Marlborough by purchase ;" —
since which the property has continued in his lordship's family. A considerable
portion of the building existed at the period of the parliamentary wars, when it was
occupied by King Charles's troops, but was afterwards destroyed by fire. The remains
now chiefly consist of ranges of walls on the north, south, and east sides of an extensive
area, and a small building, the Chapter House, at one of the angles near the river, a view
of which is given in the annexed wood engraving. At the western extremity of the high

north wall are fragments of two buttresses, and where, from an early and curious engraving
still extant, we find there was formerly a massy tower, beyond which protruded a range of

36 THE THAMES.

embattled wall, communicating with the principal entrance, over which, in a lateral
direction, was a lofty round tower. The principal domestic buildings occupied the
western division of the area, and had ranges of cloisters underneath. The church was on
the north side, and part of the church tower was standing in the early part of the present
century. This venerable and interesting relic was, however, taken down by order of Lord
Abingdon, and the materials appropriated in the erection of the present parish church of
Wytham.

The remains of the abbey, though fraught with interest to the antiquary, poet, and
moralist, possess in themselves little grandeur, or few points of pictorial attraction. Yet,
in viewing these solitary and deserted ruins, we feel impressed with the sombreness of the
scene, and trace, on memory's page, the earlier history and incidents connected with these
mouldering walls. The tenderest associations, allied to melancholy, naturally arise in
reflecting on the life of the fair but frail Rosamond; when, in the pride of youth,
beauty, and innocence, she was wont to grace these precincts with her presence ; and the
gallant and enamoured Henry, with all the ardency of early affection, first whispered to
the beauteous maid his tale of love. Images like these dazzle in the eye, and lead
the fancy captive. On reversing the visionary picture, we behold her pale emaciated
corpse, the mortal remains of deluded innocence and beauty, consigned prematurely to
the cold and narrow tomb. Our feelings then revolt at the recollection that even the
quiet of the grave was denied, by an austere and bigoted prelate, to this wreck of love-
liness ; — and learn, " that sermons may indeed be found in stones, and a pointed moral be
drawn from mouldering relics." The circumstances attending King Henry the Second's
connexion with Rosamond, have been either treated with indifference, or studiously
concealed by the writers of that period, as an impenetrable shade involves the historical
facts. It is, however, certain, that Rosamond, the daughter of Walter, Lord Clifford, was
placed as a boarder in the nunnery of Godstow, in order to receive her education. The
sisterhood, it appears, were allowed considerable license ; in the gardens were embowered
recesses and shaded walks ; and, to prevent the possibility of these becoming tiresome,
from want of variety, the fair inmates and devotees were permitted to visit several neigh-
bouring places. One of the most favourite resorts was Medley, on the opposite banks of
the Isis, between Godstow and Oxford, which belonged to Osney Abbey; and, according to
Wood, "the Canons built here a fair house, with a little oratory or chapel, and
made it a retiring place up the water for the abbot." There is now merely a lonely
building on the spot, which has been converted into a farm-house. Binsey was also often
favoured with their company. It is supposed that Henry first saw Rosamond in 1 149,
during one of these excursions, at which time she was not more than fifteen years of age,
and the prince very young. Her surpassing beauty and other accomplishments captivated
the heart of her royal admirer; and, as expressed by Camden, " drove the thoughts of all
other women from his heart, and made her commonly called, Rosa mundi, the Rose of the
world." If the account handed down of the discipline of the nunnery is correct, opportu-
nities of overture were not unfrequent. It is more than probable that Henry reconciled

THE THAMES. 37

the scruples and softened the fall of his victim by promises of honourable retribution ;
and his solicitations are stated to have been but too successfully abetted by a female
confidante. The love, however, of princes, as well as the purer dictates of their con-
sciences, are too often sacrificed at the shrine of political expediency. "The repudiated
queen of France, Eleanor of Guienne, held the support of a sceptre in her hand," and the
Bretensions of beauty ensnared, and innocence subdued, were of trivial moment compared
rith the claims of state necessity. For some time after Henry's marriage, Rosamond
continued to reside in Blenheim Park, where, — in order to conceal her from the jealous
eye of his Juno queen, who, as Virgil says, ** ceternum servans sub pectore vulnus" was
bent on her destruction, — the king had caused to be constructed round her dwelling a
labyrinth, whose various turnings rendered it an inextricable maze. There is every reason
to believe that, after the lapse of a few years, being convinced that her honour was
irrevocably forfeited by her sovereign's marriage, she returned to the convent, and died
there in penitence and seclusion. The story of her being poisoned by the queen is of
modern invention. Brompton, Knighton, and Higden, historians of repute, all agree that
she died a natural death. The Ariadne account of the clew of silk, by which the queen
was enabled to obtain possession of her person in the labyrinth, is more traditionary than
authentic. Henry showed an undeviating predilection for the nunnery; and when
Bernard de St. Walery, who possessed the advowson of Godstow and adjacent manor
of Woolvercott, presented them as a peace-ofFering to the king, whom he had offended,
Henry immediately bestowed them on the prioress and nuns. The body of Rosamond was
interred by her parents before the high altar with considerable pomp, and a costly monument
erected, of which, according to Ranulph Higden, the enamoured monarch was lavish in the
decoration. The following quaint epitaph is recorded to have been inscribed on the tomb : —

Hie jacet in tumbft, Rosa mundi, non Rosa munda,
' Non redolet, sed olet, quae redolere solet.

"Hugh, bishop of Lincoln," says Stowe, "came, a.d. 1191, to the abbey to the nunnes,

and when he had entered the church to pray, he saw a tombe in the middle of the quire,

covered with a pall of silke, and set about with lights of waxe, and demanding whose

tombe it was, he was answered, it was the tombe of Rosamond, some time lemman to

Henry II., who, for the love of her, had done much good to the Church. Then quothe

the bishop : Take this harlot from hence, and bury her without the Church, lest, through '

her, the Christian religion should be scandalized, and that other women, warned by her

example, may refrain from unlawful love." When the mouldering body of Rosamond was

femoved, it was placed, according to Hoveden, in the nuns' chapter house, who also states

Ihat the sisters collected the bones and put them in a perfumed leather bag, enclosing

them in lead, and laid them again in the church, under a fair large gravestone ; which

.corresponds with Leland's account of its situation after the dissolution of the

nunnery. He says, "Rosamunde's tumbe at Godstowe nunnery, taken up a late,

as a stone with this inscription witnesseth: Tumba Rosamunda. Her bones were

11.

38 THE THAMES.

closid in lead, and within that the bones were closid in letter (leather) ; whea
it was opened, a swete smell came out of it." Mr. Allen, of Gloucester Hall,
describes this tomb as "having on it interchangeable weavings, drawn out and decked
with roses, red and green, and the picture of the cup out of which she drank the poison
given her by the queen, carved in stone." But Gough very justly criticises this erroneous
account of the emblematical devices, by saying, — " I confess myself strongly inclined to
believe this ornament was intended for a cross-fleuri, such as was frequently on the coffin-
lids of ecclesiastics, and the cup for a chalice, as often found thereon."

Rosamond had two sons by King Henry, Richard, surnamed Longespee, from the length
of the sword he usually wore, and Geoffery Plantagenet, archbishop of York. Both were
treated with much consideration by their royal father, which they repaid, by their filial
affection, to the latest hour of his existence; exhibiting a striking contrast, when compared
with the conduct of his legitimate offspring. Kings Richard and John.

In the area, near the ruined walls of the chapter-house, are two remarkably large hazel-
trees, the stems of which measure from eighteen to twenty-four inches in circumference ;
and the fact of their bearing apparently fine fruit, though always without kernels, has led
to a provincial superstitious notion, that they are types of the beauty, but frailty of
Rosamond; the peasantry not being aware that the law of nature prescribes sexes to
the vegetable kingdom ; and that both being female trees, they cannot produce perfect
fruit without the farina of the male plant.

The village of Wytham, anciently written Witteham and Wigthham, is about half a
mile from the river, behind the abbey, situated at the foot of the fine range of woods
before alluded to, with a small bridge passing over the branch of tlie river that flows by.
The parish contains about 218 inhabitants. As early as the eighth century, mention is
made of a convent having been established here. Cissa or Cilia, sister to Abbot Heane,
founded a nunnery at Abingdon, in the year 690 ; and on her death, the " sisterhood
removed higher up the river, to "Witteham, where they remained until the place
becoming a frontier position between the contending forces of Kinewulph, king of the
West Saxons, and Offa, king of Mercia, the nuns, terrified by " war's alarms," forsook
their holy seclusion. On the summit of Wytham Hills have been found the massive
fragments of a fortress, supposed to have been erected by Kinewulph ; which afterwards
falling into the hands of Offa, was constituted a regal residence. The present mansion, or
castle, of the earl of Abingdon was built about the reign of Henry VI. The gate-house,
in the centre of the front of the building, and the hall, are interesting specimens of early
architecture. The hall, remaining nearly in its original state, conveys a good idea of
baronial splendour. The castle is still partially surroundejd by a moat, and the grounds
are laid out with considerable taste, and afford some fine views of the county and city of
Oxford. The church was originally erected by the monks of Abingdon ; but after various
reparations, woiild again have fallen to decay, had not the earl of Abingdon lately
rebuilt it with materials from the abbey of Godstow and Cumner Place. It has a square
embattled tower. The window at the east end of the chancel, and the Saxon arehes of the

THE THAMES. 39

porch and gateway, leading into the churchyard and garden contiguous, have been brought
from Cumner. The arch over the entrance into the churchyard has this inscription : — Janu
vitce, verbum Domini. H. 7. 1571.

In the vicinity of "Wytham, nearer Oxford, is situated Seacourt, formerly deno-
minated Seckworth, Senkworth, and Seke-Court. It was anciently a large town, and
contained several inns, — as many, it is stated, as twenty-four, — for the reception of pilgrims
to the church of Binsey and St. Margaret's Well. This place, which is also related to
have once maintained the Roman army, has dwindled into insignificance, and comprises
now only five houses and 25 inhabitants. Some remains of its buildings are still visible,
on the margin of the river ; and, when the water is low, fragments of the bridge which
crossed the Isis at Binsey are discernable.

About half a mile from Godstow Bridge is the village of Woolvercott, in Oxfordshire,
situated two miles north of the city of Oxford, on the banks of a branch of the river, at
the extremity of Port Meadow, and contains 524 inhabitants. The church, dedicated . to
St. Peter, is a neat gothic building, with a low embattled tower. According to legendary
accounts, it was in a wood near this spot that Memphric, the supposed founder of Oxford,
was, while enjoying the pastime of hunting, destroyed by wolves.

Having passed through Godstow Lock and Canal, the scenery assumes a novel and highly
interesting character. The river, swelling its ample bosom, seems proudly urging its flood
to offer homage to that ancient and noble receptacle of learning, Oxford, whose venerable
towers, steeples, and lofty domes, " mid academic groves enshrined," rise in changeful
succession above the level plain, and present a combination of objects unrivalled in gran-
deur and beauty. The country on the right consists of meadow land, with a bold sloping
back ground, interspersed with rich foliage, and on the left is an extensive pasturage,
reaching from Woolvercott to Oxford, containing 439 acres, called Port Meadow, or
Portman's Mead, given by William the Conqueror to the citizens as a free common.
In this meadow, not far distant from Oxford, is situated the small village of Binsey,
where the holy virgin, Frideswide, about the year 730, constructed a chapel, with
" watlyns and rough hewn timber," to the honour of St. Margaret ; and, delighting
in the solitary shades and seclusion of the neighbourhood, afterwards built a church with
adjacent buildings, as a retirement for herself and sister nuns. Near Binsey, also, was
the celebrated well of St. Margaret, which, in conjunction with several miraculous relics
contained in the church, attracted crowds of votaries in long and weary pilgrimage.
Medley, wliich adjoins Binsey on the south, had also a religious sanctuary, which we have
before referred to as belonging to Osney Abbey.

As the stream advances, the cupola of the Oxford Observatory first arrests the atten-
tion, then the dome of Christchurch, the elegant spire of St. Mary, that of All Saints,
Magdalen tower, with its lofty pinnacles, Merton College, and others of equal note, crowd
on the observation, until the distance is closed by Shotover Hill. The river now separates
into different channels, which all reunite before quitting the city. The principal stream
pursues its narrow course to the right, and soon arrives at High Bridge, termed provincially.

40 THE THAMES,

South or Botley Bridge, forming one of the principal entrances to the city. It is 9
stone structure of three arches. The original name being Hythe Bridge, the Saxon word
Hythe signifying a small haven. The stream, winding in a serpentine direction, skirts the
south-western boundary of the city. On the right is a continuation of meadow, and on
the left is the parish church of St. Thomas, and the grey, solitary, and massive round tower
of Oxford Castle. The church was originally built by the canons of Osney, in 1141,,
which, with its embattled tower, has been lately repaired. In this parish, near the river,
the magnificent abbey of Osney, or Ouseney, once reared in all the pride of gothic architec-
ture, its stately fabric. But the notoriety of its riches and splendid hospitality seems
almost to have faded away with those who possessed the one, and dispensed the other.
The name of Ouseney does not unnaturally lead to the supposition that it was derived
from the abbey's situation nigh the river Ouse, or Usa, and might be adduced in confirmation
of the opinion we urged at the commencement of the present work, as to the original
iesignation of this portion of the stream. We find that the style of architecture was so
exquisite, full of variety, fine workmanship, and curious carving, that the abbey excited the
wonder of all beholders, and " Anthony Wood " adds, " was not only the envy of all other
monastic foundations in England, but also of those in foreign countries." Robert D'Oyley,
nephew to the distinguished favourite of William the Conqueror, and constable to King
Henry I. at the solicitation of the king, married Edith Forne, a lady of great
beauty, who had been mistress to that monarch. At her instigation, her husband founded,
in 1129, a priory of canons, Augustines, on one of the islands not far from the castle of
Oxford, and which was soon after constituted an abbey. In 1247 it was rebuilt, the monks,
authorised by the pope's legate, having raised a considerable sum of money by the procla-
mation of forty days' indulgence and forgiveness of sins, to all who contributed. At the
dissolution, its yearly revenue amounted to 1551. 18s. 6 J. In 1542, upon the erection of
the new bishoprics, the church of the abbey was made the cathedral church of Christ. In
1546, however, the episcopal chair was transferred to the conventual church of St.Frides-
wide, called Henry the Eighth's college, which became the cathedral of the See, and
called Christ Church, and the bishopric of Osney converted into that of Oxford. During
the reign of Queen Mary, masses were performed in the abbey ; after which it gradually
declined, until its demolition was completed by the depredations of the republican parties
during the Commonwealth. An arched window in the upper part of a barn, is now the
only vestige of this once splendid edifice. -'i^

In the western suburbs of the city, close to the Coventry Canal, at the back of High
Bridge-street, and in the parish of St. Thomas, are a few remains of Rewley Abbey,
formerly called Roy-lieu, or regalis locus. It was founded for Cistercian monks, in 1280,
by Edmund, earl of Cornwall, in accordance with the will of his father, Richard, emperor
of Germany, and second son of King John.

The ancient castle of Oxford, of which there is now only one mouldering and time-worn
tower standing to mark the site, was built by Robert D'Oyley in 1071, with the intention,
most probably, of intimidating the inhabitants of the neighbouring country, who had

THE THAMES. 41

manifested considerable opposition to the ascendency of the Norman king. Towards the
close of the year 1 142, the Empress Maud, with her adherents, bravely defended them-
selves in the castle for three months, against the aggression of Stephen and his army.
After suffering extreme privation, and resolving not to trust her life in the hands of the
king, her enemy, she made a chivalrous effort to escape. The river happened to be frozen
over, and the ground covered with snow. Accompanied by three knights, all clothed
in white, they passed the warders unobserved, crossed the river, and traversed the country
on foot to Abingdon ; where, taking horse, the empress arrived safely at Wallingford, and
was joined by her son, Henry, and her half-brother, the gallant earl of Gloucester. The
day after her flight the castle surrendered. In the reign of Edward III. the castle was
repaired and strengthened. In the succeeding reigns, however, it became dilapidated,
though in I6i9 the stately towers, which are represented as having been highly orna-
mental to the western portion of the city, were still remaining ; but the castle being soon
afterwards garrisoned by part of the parliamentary forces, the towers were pulled down and
the fortifications improved. In 1651, when Charles II. arrived at Oxford, after his
defeat at "Worcester, the castle was entirely demolished, without apparent reason, in the
short space of four days, and the garrison removed to New College. At present, the
ground is occupied by the county gaol, erected under the direction of the architect,
Moneypenny, who has given the exterior the form of a castle, as congenial to the spot on
which it was reared. The boundary wall encloses a space of three acres, and the prison,
for strength and convenience, is not surpassed in the kingdom. A wing of the gaoler's
house adjoins the ancient tower, in the basement of which is a cell for refractory prisoners,
as there formerly used to be in the castle for refractory clerks.

The stream now glides on through a commodious lock, and passing, in its devious
meanderings a newly erected gasometer on the left, its further progress becomes impeded
by a broad and well constructed weir, near which have been lately established some works
for supplying the city with water. Here the. river again divides ; a small navigable
branch directing its course to the left through another weir, and the main stream passing
beneath the arches of South or Grandpont Bridge, now called Folly Bridge. The waters
having skirted the sides of a small islet, soon reunite and flow uninterruptedly on, laving
the classic grounds and meadows of Christchurch, until they receive the tributary river of
Cherwell. This latter stream passes on the eastern side of Oxford, through Magdalen
Bridge, the two rivers thus nearly insulating the city.

In reference to the ancient and celebrated city of Oxford, at once the pride of our own
country and the admiration of foreigners, so many excellent and elaborate works have
been written, that it is nearly impossible to advance any thing new on the subject. In
its twofold capacity of a city and a university, it merits a distinct narration ; which,
however, the confined limits of our present undertaking will preclude the possibility
of giving in detail. We have, however, endeavoured to lay before our readers a
succinct account, from the earliest historians who have treated of its origin and
antiquity. According to the authority of Miles Winsore, " it deserves to be reckoned
12.

4;2 THE THAMES.

not only among the first and most ancient cities of Britain, but of all Europe ;" it was
formerly surrounded by a wall of an oblong form, with towers at about ] 50 feet distance
from each other, including a space of about two miles in circumference ; at present, the
extent of the city is more than a mile in length, from east to west, including the suburbs ;
nearly the same from north to south, and about three miles in circumference, com-
prising 20,434 inhabitants. It is situated in Wootton hundred, in Oxfordshire, fifty-four
miles west from London by way of High Wycombe, and fifty-eight by way of Henley.
The city occupies a gentle eminence, rising from a luxuriant vale, encompassed with rich
meadows and fertile fields, bounded by a pleasing range of hilly country. Towards the east
is a gradual ascent of two miles to the summit of Shotover Hill. The soil is an excellent
sandy loam, with a substratum of gravel.

It is almost impossible to convey to the reader, who has not visited Oxford, the effect
created on the mind on first entering the city. The magnificent colleges and noble edifices
give an indescribable grandeur to the streets. The delightful walks — elegant gardens —
invaluable libraries and public display of learning — the beauty of the meadows and river,
which constantly refreshen the sight, added to the salubrity of the air, conspire to render
the city one of the ornaments of the kingdom. The ancients entertained for it the
greatest degree of veneration, bestowing on it the highest encomiums, and distinguishing
it by the appellation of Bellositum quasi a belle situnit from the beauty of its situation.
Poets even made it a kind of Elysium : —

" Qui videt Oxoniam, peregrinas visere Terras
Desinet, est nihil quod praspossuisse potest
Si Deus in terris aliquando habitaret, opinor,
Sedibus Oxonii se voluisse frui. — "

Erom the various histories of the earliest writers, it would appear, that in the 1009th
year before Christ, and in the year of the world 2954, Memphric, king of Britain, grandson
of Brutus, whose origin and descent, Milton observes, " is defended by many, and denied
utterly by few," first founded the city, whence it derived the Celtic name of Caer-
Memphric, or city of Memphric. According to the historian, Ross, the original site
occupied the west end of the present city, in the quarter where the ruins of the castle
stand : and its erection was not completed until a. m. 2960, the tenth year of the reign of
Memphric, which, according to the genealogical tables, would be coeval with David, king
of Judea, thirty-eight years before the building of Solomon's temple, and 298 antecedent
to Rome. According to the profound Dr. Burley, certain philosophers, who came out of
Greece, had the ordering of the situation of the town by Memphric's command. It is
often alluded to in early writings, under the old British denomination of Caer Fen Hal-
goit, or coit, meaning a city situated on an eminence, between rivers, adorned with
groves or woods, answering likewise the characteristic given it by the Romans.
During the space of 1 146 years, the place is mentioned by Winsore, Twyne, and other
historiographers, as being " the glory of cities, the seat of princes and the muses," until

^^^-^

•ij5"^'"n>'iLV^

THE THAMES. 43

the reign of Claudius, the Roman emperor, whose general, Plautius, waging a continual
warfare with the Britons, the city was eventually destroyed, and few vestiges left
remaining, save its name of Rhyd-ychen, signifying, in the Celtic or British language,
a ford for oxen. In the year 170, it arose. Phoenix-like, from its ashes, and appears to
have commanded attention, being cited by Claudius Ptolomeus, under the name of
" Caleva" vulgo Oxonia, applying to the ancient Galena of Antoninus, from the Celtic
word Gal, bordering on, and Len, a river. According to Symmachus, Vortigern, in 449,
restored the city to its ancient dignity, in whose honour it was called Caer-Vortigern.
Leland, however, states, that it did not long retain its new appellation, being reduced by
the Saxons, " by hard usage, to a village." When the Saxons, in 689, had subjugated
Britain, Fitzherbert mentions that they formed the name of Rhyd-ychen after their own
familiar etymology, and translated the word into Oxonaford, or Oxeneford, and encou-
raged the advancement of the city, as a place set apart for the progress of learning. This
attention to letters, on the part of the Saxons, may be attributed to their previous con-
version to Christianity, an important epoch in this century. In 889, during the reign of
Alfred, it was the residence of himself and his three sons, Edward, Athelward, and
Alfward ; money was also coined here in the king's name, called Ocsnafordia, or
Oksnafordia. In 910, Ethelfleda, sister of Alfred, fortified the city against the
Danes, whom she repulsed ; they, however, destroyed it by fire in 979. The
Oxonians, it would seem, exclaimed with Claudius, regarding Rome, that " the city
should be eternal ;" and, by great exertion, aided with contributions, it soon reappeared.
During the reign of the Danish king, Swain, it was partly burnt and pillaged, but again
revived; and, in 1015, King Ethelred held here a conference with the Danes. In 1022,
Canute convoked an assembly in the city of the nobles of the land, when the laws of
King Edward were ordered to be translated into Latin ; and, in 1026, Canute con-
firmed, by his royal authority, " in Parliament at Oxford," the laws of King Edgar. In
1036, Harold I., surnamed Harefoot, was crowned here ; and, in 1039, died in the city.
In 1067, soon after the coronation of William the Conqueror, the king arrived at Oxford
on his road to the north to quell the revolts in that part of the kingdom. The city
refusing to ofier him allegiance, was stormed on the northern side, and an easy entrance
effected. The king gave the greatest portion of the town to his favourite, Robert d'Oyley,
with a command to fortify it with a castle on the west side. In 1068, the citizens were
calculated at 1200, and had the liberty granted of coining money. At the same time
sewcval fraternities and mercatorial guilds existed, with a constable to preside over them.
These advantages are attributable to the number of students, as also for the sake of
artificers, and convenience of merchants. In Doomsday-book, the city is mentioned as
Oxeneford, in Oxenefefscyre, and stated to have suffered much dilapidation, " having
been a populous city," and at that time the population and students did not amount
to more than one-third of the number which inhabited it in more prosperous times.
In proof that Oxford was, at this early period, renowned, not only in Europe, but also in
Asia, Sherif el Edrifi, an Arabian philosopher of the eleventh century, makes particular

THE THAMES.

illusion to it under the name of Ozeford, adding, that it stood on the same river, Tamiiz,
as London.

Having now arrived at an era of our national history, when the system of internal govern-
ment became more civilised, and the country was freed from the inroads of foreign enemies,
the succession of civil and political events in which Oxford was afterwards connected, have
been so often and ably recorded by those historians of our country, whose works are perused
by all who consider its history an object of utility, curiosity, or accomplishment, that it
would be superfluous to trespass on the reader's attention by citing these familiar subjects
with those of more ancient research. We shall, therefore, content ourselves, by briefly
noticing the ancient buildings which have acquired notoriety, but now cease to
exist ; and make a cursory mention of the municipal and collegiate government of the
city, with the churches and universities. The name, however, of Oxford, has excited so
much literary discussion, that we cannot entirely pass over in silence the etymology of the
word, which, by several antiquarian writers, has been deduced from a ford leading to
Hengesey, now called Hinxey, behind Osney, about a quarter of a mile west of the city,
where oxen were accustomed to pass and be watered, and termed, in the old British
language, Rhyd-ychen, or ford of Oxen, which receiving the Saxon appellation and
translation of Ochsenfurt, 'or jOxeneford, became corrupted to Oxford. The plausibility
of this etymology we are inclined entirely to reject, coinciding as we do with Leland
and the learned Lhwyd, who thus alludes to the subject : — " On the north side
of the river is the city called, by Englishmen, Oxenford, and by our countrymen,
the Welch, Rhyd-ychen, but what name it had in old time is altogether unknown.
Our friend, Leland, the antiquary, earnestly defendeth that it should be called Ouseford,
or the ford of Ouse or Isis, against whom, as much exercised in ancient histories, I dare
not contend ; for it is certain that the city standeth on Isis, and tract of time
corrupteth the names of many places." It appears much more probable, that the city
should have taken its designation from one of the principal passages of the river, which
existed at this spot, called Ouseford, or Ouseneyford, the ford at or near Ouseney, or
Osney, or the meadows of Ouse, than from the mere circumstance of the watering or passage
of oxen, to which genus of animals it could not have been specifically set apart. In all the
earliest orthographies of the word, we invariably find the letter e, or a, after n, in the second
syllable, a fair presumptive proof that the term Oxen was not originally a component part.
Besides, there are other places in England now called Oxenford, deriving their radix from
the same cause from whence we are maintaining that of Oxford originates. Ouse, or Ouze,
was a very general name for rivers, as we have before alluded to at the commencement of
the volume. A place formerly belonging to Waverley Abbey, is, on the authority of
Dugdale, spelt Oxeneford in an instrument written in 1147; and, in a charter of King
Athelstan's, to Wilton Abbey, dated 937, in the possession of the earl of Pembroke, a
ford over the river is mentioned and written Oxnaford. We doubt not that the
primitive meaning of the name being lost sight of, Oxeneford, whence Oxenford, and
Oxford, afibrded a familiar definition, which the pedantry of the ancients rendered

THE THAMES. 45

Vadum Bourn, and the Britons Rhyd-ychen. We would here suggest the probability that,
as bos was used by many Roman writers, to denote not only an ox, but likewise a heifer^
at cow, as Horace mentions, " Bos intacta" and Ovid, " Forda ferens Bos est" it is
possible, the heathen mythology having become the favourite theme of the students at
Dxford, that the lo of the Greeks, who was transformed into a heifer, and worshipped a3
Isis by the Egyptians, may have given rise to the more elegant and classical allusion to
the goddess, as the designation of the river ; thus adhering to the earlier appellation of
Oxen-ioxdi, and obliterating the original name of Usa, or Owse-ford. The translation of
Rhyd-ychen appears to have emanated from the inventive genius of Geofeey of Mon-
mouth, the first author who, we find, uses the term, and whose predilection for legendary
lore probably induced him to seize any new or fanciful explanation of the word. The
early historian was more likely to fall into the common error, of corrupting the etymolo-
gies of names, arising from a natural propensity, which exists, to substitute, in the place
of a difficult or obscure meaning, an appellation more trite and familiar, and which is often
suggested and authorized by affinity of sound.

The government of the city is at present vested in a mayor, high-steward, recorder, four
aldermen, eight assistants, two bailifis, a town-clerk, two chamberlains, and twenty-four
common-council. The magistracy, however, are subject to the chancellor, or vice-chan-
cellor of the university, in all affairs of moment. The mayor, by wtue of the charter of
the corporation, claims the right of service at the coronation feasts, in the butlery, with
the Lord Mayor of London, and to receive three maple cups as his fee, for which a silver
gilt bowl and cover has, of late years, been substituted. The city returns two members
to parliament ; a privilege granted by the 23rd of Edward I.

The city, with its suburbs, comprises thirteen parishes, which, with the exception of
Saint Giles's and St. John's, were consolidated by an act of parliament, passed in 1771,
for the improvement of the city. The following are the names of the different churches ; —
St. Aldate's, or St. Old's; All-Saints; St. Ebbe's; St. Giles's; Holywell; St. John the "
Baptist ; St. Mary's ; St. Mary Magdalen's ; St. Martin's ; St. Michael's ; St. Peter le
Bailey; St. Peter in the East; St. Thomas, and Christ-chiirch Cathedral. Most of them
owe their erection to a remote period ; but our limits preventing their respective detail,
we have only noticed those which possess more peculiar interest.

All-Saints' church is situated in High-street, on the site of All-Hallows, which,
owing to its total decay, fell down in 1699. The present, one of the principal churches
in Oxford, was built in 1708, from designs of Dr. Henry Aldrich, dean of Christ-church.
The beauty and elegance of its Corinthian architecture has acquired general approbation.
At the west end a very fine tower supports a fine peristyle of Corinthian colmnns, termi-
nating in an obelisk.

St. Mary's church stands in the High-street, of which it forms one of the principal

ornaments, and is the university church. In the reign of Henry VII the old church wa*

so dilapidated, that it was foimd expedient to take it down ; and the present light and

elegant structure was reared, in 1498, by voluntary contributions. The south porch in the

46 THE THAMES.

High-street is a singular specimen of the use of Corinthian columns with twisted shafts,
and was built in 1637, at the expense of Dr. Morgan Owen, chaplain to archbishop
Laud. Over the entablature is introduced a statue of the Virgin Mary, to whom the
church is dedicated. The erection of this statue was made one of the articles of impeach-
ment against the archbishop, when tried for papistry and high treason. The spire forms
one of the most striking objects in the different views of the imiversity, being, from the
basement, 180 feet in height. The beautiful proportions and symmetry of the tower are
almost lost in the exuberance of the ornaments at its base. On the north side of the
chancel is the Common-Law school.

St. Martin's church, commonly called Carfax, a designation corrupted from the French
word Quatrevois, owing to its situation near the meeting of four ways. The old church
was demohshed in 1819, and the new structure completed in 1822. It is the corporation
chiurch, and is attended by the mayor and other city officers. Near St. Martin's formerly
stood the Carfax Conduit, at the meeting of the four main streets of the city, and was
erected in 1610, through the munificence and public spirit of Mr. Otho Nicholson, for the
convenient supply of water to the university ; the water being conveyed to it from a reser-
voir on South-Hinksey hill, for the convenience of the colleges. This curious and elegant
piece of architecture is enriched with numerous statues of the cardinal virtues — worthies
of the world — Apollo and the muses, &c., and beneath the arches in the centre, and over
the space which contained the cistern, is a figure of queen Maud, riding on an ox, over a
ford, alluding to the name of Oxenford. During the improvements of the city, in 1771, it
was removed, and presented by the citizens to the earl of Harcourt, who had it recon-
structed in his beautiful grounds of Nuneham-Courtenay. It is justly observed that,
though it might have been an improvement to remove it from the High-street, there could
have been no real necessity for the corporation suffering this highly-ornamental structure
to be carried out of the city, when a situation so extremely appropriate presented itself
as the centre of the great quadrangle at Christ-church, where there actually is a fountain
supplied from the same source. " The act almost amounted to a sacrilegious spoliation of
the city."

St. Peter's church, situated near Queen's College, is considered one of the oldest
churches in the kingdom, and to have been founded by St. Grymbald, in the 9th century.
It was granted by WUliam the Conqueror to Robert D'Oyley ; but, having returned by
escheat to the crown, it was bestowed by Henry III on Merton College. It was origi-
nally the imiversity church, and possesses some highly-interesting architectural beauties.

Christchurch Cathedral was originally attached to the monastery of St. Frideswide,
which formerly stood in part of Christ-church quadrangle, and was founded by Didan, earl
of Oxford, in 720, at the request of his daughter, Frideswide, who was the first abbess,
and to whom, at her death, it was dedicated. The greater part was rebuilt by Guimonde,
first regular prior of the monastery of the church, about the year 1130, in the reign of
Henry I. It is constructed in the form of a cross, with a square tower, surmounted by a
steeple. The choir is ornamented with a splendid gothic roof, erected by Cardinal Wolser

THE THAMES. 47

at the time lie founded the college of Christ-church, and exhibits, in a «mking degree, the
elegance of his princely taste. King Henry VIII translated the episcopal see from Osney
abbey (where it had been originally established) to this church, and endowed the bishop-
ric of Oxford out of the estates of the dissolved monasteries of Abingdon and Osney. The
cathedral has a dean, a chancellor, an archdeacon, a treasurer and eight canons.

The university consists of twenty colleges and five halls, each having its own students,
teachers, revenues and regulations, while at the same time they are all united under one
government. The earliest charters were granted by king John, but the university, as a
corporate body, exists under a charter of Charles I, and is styled " the chancellor, mas-
ters and scholars of the imiversity of Oxford." It has two separate assemblies : the house
of Convocation and the house of Congregation. The former consists of the vice-chancellor,
proctors, and all doctors and masters who have taken out their regency ; and the latter is
composed of the vice-chancellor, the proctors or their deputies, all doctors or masters of
arts, for the first two years after they are admitted to their degrees, all public professors,
lecturers and heads of colleges and halls, the masters of the schools, the pubhc examiners
and deans and censors of colleges. The chancellor is elected by the members of the con-
vocation, and, since the fifteenth century, the appointment is for life. The vice-chancellor
is always the head of a college, and is annually nominated by the chancellor, subject to the
approval of the convocation. He is the highest resident ofiicer. The high-steward is ap-
pointed for life by the chancellor, and approved by the convocation. The proctors are two
masters of arts, chosen annually out of the colleges in rotation, each nominating two other
masters of arts, from any college or hall, as their deputies or pro-proctors. There is also
a public orator, chosen by the convocation, who retains office during life, and is charged
with the receipt of the rents of the university. He is also keeper of the archives and
charters. Each college is governed either by a dean, rector, provost, warden, president,
master, or principal. The members of the different colleges consist of noblemen,
gentlemen-commoner, conunoners, and students of Christ-church, chaplains, bible-clerks,
exhibitioners (who receive support during their residence at college) and servitors ; tutors,
who direct the studies of the junior members ; and bursars or treasurers. Each member
of the university must be matriculated; and for this purpose he appears before the vice-
chancellor, and declares his rank in life, subscribes to the thirty-nine articles of the church
of England, and takes the oaths of allegiance and supremacy. The total number of
members on the books of the imiversity is about 3000 ; 1000 of whom are maintained
out of the revenues of the colleges, and the remainder pay their own expenses. The
university sends two members to parliament; a privilege granted by James I, when the
elective right was conferred on the doctors and actual masters.

The earliest authenticated foimdation college is that of Merton, which was established
in 1264, at Maiden in Surry, by Walter de Merton, bishop of Rochester and chancellor
of England, and was removed to Oxford in 1274. It consists of a warden, twenty-four
fl'llows, fourteen post-masters, four scholars, two chaplains and two clerks.

University CoUege is erroneously stated to have been founded by Alfred the Ghremt;

48 THE THAMES.

in 872. It was however endowed by William of Durham, archbishop of Rouen, who died
in 1249. In 1280 a body of statutes was framed, and from that period the college dates
its legal estabHshment. It consists of a master, twelve fellows, seventeen scholars and
exhibitioners.

Baliol College was incorporated as a society in 1282, from the bequest of John
Baliol, of Barnard-castle, in 1263, father of Baliol king of Scotland. It consists of a mas-
ter, twelve fellows, fourteen scholars, and eighteen exhibitioners.

Exeter CoUege was founded in 1314, by Walter Stapledon, bishop of Exeter, and called
Stapledon Hall ; but in 1404, Edmund Stafford, bishop of Exeter, becoming a liberal
benefactor, obtained leave to give the college its present name. It consists of a rector,
twenty-five fellows, one scholar and ten exhibitioners.

Hertford College, formerly called Hert-Hall, was also founded by Walter Stapleton,
in 1312. It consists of a principal, four senior and eight junior fellows, eight probationary
students, twenty-four actual students, and four scholars. The buildings are incomplete,
and the college ceased to have a principal in 1805. Mr. Fox was educated here.

Oriel College, founded in 1325, by king Edward, at the suggestion of Adam de
Brome, his ahnoner. It consists of a provost, eighteen fellows, and thirteen exhibitioners.

Queen's College, founded in 1340, by Robert Eglesfield, confessor of Queen Philippa,
consort of Edward III. It consists of a provost, sixteen fellows, eight taberders (so called
from the tabard or short gown they used to wear), sixteen scholars, two clerks, and forty
exhibitioners. Among other singular customs in this coUege, is that of serving up, on
Christmas day, in the haU, at dinner, a boar's head ushered in with an old monkish carol. The
origin of the custom is said to have arisen from the circumstance of a taberdar or scholar of
the society walking in the vicinity of Oxford, reading Aristotle's Logic, where he was
encountered by a wild boar, and, in defending himself, thrust his Aristotle dovm the ani-
mal's throat, and choked him.

" Instead of avoiding the mouth of the beast,

" He cramm'd in a volume, and cried ' Graecum est.' "

This legendary account was, in all probability, invented as a satyr on the effect of logic,
which is often forced into the mouth of the student, and, instead of facilitating his powers
of reasoning, frequently beveilders them.

New College, founded in 1379, by William of Wykeham, bishop of Winchester, con-
sists of a warden, seventy fellows and scholars (who are elected from Winchester-school),
ten chaplains, three clerks, and sixteen choristers. The garden, wloich is laid out in ex
cellent taste, is partly surroxmded by the old city walls.

Lincoln College was founded in 1427, by Richard Flemmyng, bishop of Lincoln, and
in 1479 was considerably endowed by Thomas Scot, sumamed Rotherham, bishop of Lin-
coln. It consists of a rector, twelve fellows, eight scholars, twelve exhibitioners, and a
bible-clerk.

All-Souls' College, founded in 1437 by Henry Chichele, archbishop of Canterbury,
consists of a warden, forty fellows, two chaplains, and six clerks and choristers.

THE THAMES. 49

The rest of the Colleges are as follows : — Magdalen, fovinded by Waynflete, bishop of
Winchester, in 1458, remarkable for its fine situation, its romantic walks, and its superb
tower. Cardinals Wolsey and Pole, Hampden, Addison, and Collins were educated
here. — Brazen-nose, foimded in 1509. — Corpus- Christi, founded in 1516. — Christ-church,
founded by Cardinal Wolsey, in 1525, on the site of the monastery of St. Frideswide.
The taste and magnificence displayed in some parts of the building of tliis college, which
were planned by Wolsey liimself, excite admiration. The dining-hall, with its princely
entrance (over wliich is placed the statue of the cardinal in liis robes), is in a style of
grandeur \mequalled in this part of the world. The tower, over the gate of the great
quadrangle, contains the celebrated bell (Great Tom), which toUs every evening, at
nine o'clock, to announce the closing of the college gates throughout the university. —
Trinity, founded in 1554. — St. John's, foimded in 1555. — Jesus, founded in 1571. — Pem-
broke, foimded in 1628. — Worcester, founded in 1714. — The five Halls are, Alhan-HaU,
St. Edmund-Hall, St. Mary-Hall, and St. Mary-Magdalen-Hall. These have no regu-
lar endowments.

TKe Bodleian Library^ one of the richest of Europe in MSS and rare books, was
foTinded by Humphrey, ctuke of Gloucester, but was of little note until the time of Sir
Thomas Bodley (1595), to whom it is chiefly indebted for its present celebrity. This
building, in the form of the Roman letter H, is one of a splendid group, which occupies a
large space, nearly in the centre of the university ; namely, — the Public Schools, adjoining
tlie Ubrary, forming a handsome quadrangle, on the second floor of which is the Picture
Gallery, containing many curious and valuable paintings : — the Sheldonian Theatre, con-
structed in imitationnof «, Roman circus, (with a painted ciehng, representing the descent
of the Muses), in which are delivered the university public orations ; — the Ashmolean
Museum, highly worthy of inspection: the Clarendon Printing-Office, built out of the
profits of lord Clarendon's History of the Rebellion : — aijd Radcliffes Library, remarkable
chiefly for its dome and the general beauty of its architecture. The Clarendon printing-
ofllice, not being sufficiently capacious for the present undertakings of the miiversity, is
now used for other piirposes, and the printing business is removed to an elegant new and
commodious building, on the north-west side of the city.

It appears, from respectable authority, that Oxford was in many reigns the chief resi-
dence of the sovereigns of England. Henry'I built the palace, in 1128-9; some remains
of which were extant as lately as the year 1774, and amongst them the very chamber in
which was bom Richard Coeur-de-Lion, then converted into a pig-sty ! Even this hu-
miliating monument of the instabihty of human splendor was swept away, with other
incumbrances, by the improvements which the city undenvent at that period.

On tlie Folly-bridge stood, not many years since, one of the ancient gateways of the
city, over which was an apartment, said to have been the study of the renowned friar
Bacon, whose wonderful proficiency in natural philosophy had obtained for him the repu-
tation of a necromancer. Magdalen-bridge, one of the most elegant of modem times, is
14

THE THAMES.

built over the Cherwell, between the city and the suburb of St. Clement's (through which
passes the high-road to London), by the architect Gwynn, in 1779, at an expense of
nearly 8000 pounds. Its length is 526 feet, and its breadth sufficient for three carriages
abreast, with a convenient pavement on each side, for foot-passengers. The view from it
of the long and stately avenue of lofty and vdde-spreading ancient trees, called Christ-
church walk on one side, and the water walk of Magdalen college on the other, together
with the botanical garden, the rich meadows of Christ-church and the well-wooded hills
beyond them, surpasses description

Lea^dng with regret this interesting city, and at the same time lamenting that our con-
fined limits will not admit of a more extended description of the university, we now follow
the course of the river to Ifley lock, distant from Oxford about a mile. The village of
Ifiey is pleasantly situated on the left. Its church is a fine, but diminutive, specimen of
Anglo-Norman architecture. Its western entrance is constructed in a highly ornamental
and elegant style, of which a view is here presented.

Proceeding do^vnwards with the stream, we soon perceive on the left the hamlet of Little-
Moor, where there was formerly a Benedictine convent, founded in the reign of Henry II.
In 1524, a certain portion of its revenues was appropriated by Henry VIII, at the in-
stigation of Wolsey, in aid of that cardinal's new foimdation at Oxford ; and at the time
of the general suppression of monasteries, in 1539, the whole was confiscated, and given
by the king as part of his endowment to Christ-church college, which had then lost its
mtmificent founder. Having passed this place, the stream flows gaily along, through rich
meadows and cultivated fields, to Sandford, in the neighbourhood of which village the eye
is delighted with varied beauties of hiU and dale, bounded by the luxuriant woods of
Nuneham-Courtenay, the seat of the late lord Harcourt. The river, on approaching Sand-
ford lock and paper-mill, situated on the left, becomes narrow, but widens somewhat
before it arrives at the village of Sunningwell. Its banks now assume those soft and ele-
gant features which, from time to time, delight the eye in the course of its windings to the

-'-^ ..^

THE THAMES.

ocean. The " deep embowered shades" of Nuneham are now seen on the left ; and as we
approach them, the profusion of charms which nature and art have spread around seem to
•■ealize the most vivid poetic descriptions of fairy scenes. The noble mansion of the Har-
courts soon opens upon the view, delightfully seated on an eminence, at a short distance
from the river ; its park and verdant lawns flanked by rich shrubberies and lofty and
luxuriant woods, in which the dark cedar of Lebanon and other exotics, of a thousand
diflferent shades of coloiu*, are blended with the no less attractive productions of our native
forests. The old chiurch of Nuneham stood on the site of the present splendid gardens of
the mansion, and its burying-ground was stripped of the mortal remains of many genera-
rations, to make way for the works of the landscape gardener. A new church was built in
another place, from a design of Stewart, which is chiefly remarkable for the singularity of
its style. For many years, the impression made on the " village train " by the violation of
the tombs of their ancestors, could not be forgotten ; and even now, the aged inhabitants
shake their heads and heave a sigh whenever the circumstance is mentioned to them. All
the attention and kindness which the Harcourt family afterwards bestowed on the inhabit-
ants (and they were many and highly benevolent) could not entirely reconcile them ; and
so general was the absurd idea that the grounds were haunted, that few of the rustics
would dare to approach them by night. The title of the earldom is now cxtincL

The woods and parks are ever open to visiters, and the magnificent house, wioi its vi»lu-
able pictures and furniture, may be inspected, if application be made to the steward. On
an eminence, near the verge of the park, is seen the before-noticed Carfax- Conduit,
of which the above engraving is an accurate representation.

52 THE THAMES.

Having passed another lock, near the extremity of the park of this domain, called
Nuneham-lock, the river flows on, for more than a mile, in a wide and placid stream, to
the TFyers, a kind of water-pound, constructed in the flourishing days of the abbey, to
turn off a part of the current of the Isis towards Abingdon, for the use of the mills,,
then being the property of the celebrated and rich monastery which we shall soon have
to notice. All the river craft were therefore under the necessity of passing the Wyers,
until the new lock was constructed, at some distance lower down, which opens a direct
navigable course to Abingdon bridge, where the waters again unite with the mill-stream.
The Isis, thus diminished, now steals along, over its sandy, shallow bed, bounded on the
left by a woody range of elevated land, called Mill-hill, and on the right by a rich plain,
of about a mile in extent, which lies between the river and the town, until it arrives
at Cullum bridge, where it recovers its importance. Abingdon bridge is a structure of
very ancient date. Its principal features are represented in the wood-cut below.

The town of Abingdon contains nearly 6000 inhabitants, and has two parish churches,
the principal one dedicated to St. Helen, and the other to St. Nicholas. It was known in
the time of the Anglo-Saxons by the name of Shoevesham, but after the foundation of the
abbey, it received the appellation of ^libandun, or town of the abbey. The ancient
town was destroyed by the Danes, in the reign of Alfred, and remained a mere heap of
i-uins until the year 954, when king Edgar caused it to be in part restored. Ethelwold,
the abbot at that period, erected and embellished the church of St. Helen ; and suc-
cessive abbots contributed to its improvement. It consists of three aisles evidently built at
different periods, and its pinnacled tower and spire particularly excite admiration. The
alms-houses on three sides of the church-yard (some of them cloistered) are worthy of
attention.

The church of St. Nicholas was built by an abbot of that name during the reign of
Edward I, and endowed with sufficient funds for the performance of divine service twice
a day throughout the year. It consists of only one aisle, — a chancel or choir, and a vestry.
At the western end stands the tower, containing six very musical bells and chimes, given
by a cooper of the name of Alder, who, by one of those freaks of fortune, which we some-
times witness, obtained the prize of twenty thousand pounds in the lottery, about eighty

THE THAMES. 53

years ago. The ticket was purchased in a drunken freak, with a sum which he should
have paid to an urgent creditor. The principal entrance of this church, which is at the
west end, under the tower, is enriched with a chevron moulding of curious workmanship.
It has another entrance on the south side, under the gateway of the abbey. This gateway
is one of the most perfect remains of the monastery, and, with the ancient gate-house, has
served for many years as the town prison. In the church is a very curious monimient
of a liberal contributor to the charities of the town, well worthy of inspection. Opposite
the south side of the church is the town-hall, where the summer assizes are held, for the
county of Berks, and at the back of it is the grammar-school, founded by John Royse, esq.
for the education of a certain number of boys, sons of burghers, the senior of whom goes
oiF annually to Pembroke college, Oxford, with an allowance sufficient to finish his edu-
cation. The town, in general, is not well built, except the part called St. Helen's Fore-
street, which contains several elegant houses, with gardens extending to the river. The
market-place and market-house are superior to most others in England. Abingdon is
noted for the manufacture of sackcloth.

The abbey was founded by Cissa, in 675, for monks of the order of St. Benedict, and
was dedicated to the Virgin-Mary. Having suffered, at different periods, in common with
the town, from the invasions of the Danes, it at length was enabled to enjoy a long season
of prosperity, and became one of the most wealthy and splendid monastic establishments
in Europe, until the time of the general reform, under Henry VIII, when its lands were
confiscated, and its honors trodden in the dust. At the present day there exist but few
indices of its great extent. In the brewhouse of Mr. Spenlove are seen some curious
apartments, and the ancient refectory and kitchen, situated near the mills, have been
long used as the town bridewell. Several other remains prove that the whole establish-
ment occupied a space of at least three miles in circumference. In a niche, over the
gate above mentioned, an ancient statue of the Virgin Mary still remains unmolested,
and, comparatively, not much defaced by the hand of Time.

The Isis, having swept rapidly along the south-eastern side of the town, inclines to the
left until it again joins the parent stream, westward of the old bridge of Cullum, erected
as long since as the reign of Henry V. Soon after this confluence of the waters, anotlier
deviation from the old course takes place, near a new bridge, with a single arch, througli
which the stream passes on to a lock, constructed not long since, on the left of the village
of'Sutton-Courtney. Before this alteration, the river craft continued in the bed of the Isis,
rounding Sutton, and leaving it on the left. Tlie diverted current now winds along,
through flowery meads, to the fruitful village of Appleford, in Berkshire, celebrated for
itjj orchards and pastures ; then sweeping boldly to the left, and passing Day's lock, falls
again into the Isis near Long-Wittenham, which village is now perceived on the right,
nearly at the foot of an eminence, called Wittenham-Hill, formerly a Roman fortress,
destroyed, as is reported, by the Danes. For particulars respecting this picturesque spot
we refer our readers to a poem of much merit, intitled, " Wittenham-Hill," WTitten by
15

54- THE THAMES.

a learned and amiable clergyman of Wallingford, about sixty years since. Having passed
the village of Little-Wittenham, which is almost hidden by clusters of fruit-trees, the
river bends suddenly eastward, bounded on the right by an extensive wood, and the an-
tique conventual tower of Dorchester is seen amidst rich pastures on the left. Dorchester,
now an inconsiderable village, was once a city of great note, and, in the 7th century, was
an episcopal see, established by Birinus, the apostle of the West-Saxons. We find it
mentioned, under different names, by several ancient authors. It is here that the veri-
table river Thames, or Thamesis, claims our attention. This river rises in the eastern
part of the Chiltern Hills, in the county of Buckingham, and, after winding through the
southern part of the vale of Aylesbury, enters Oxfordshire, passing on the north side of
the town of Thame, from which its appellation of Thames is, without doubt, derived.
Thence meandering along through the country, it reaches Dorchester, and, passing imder
the old and picturesque bridge of that town, continues its devious course, in a very narrow
bed, for the distance of about a mile, and then falls into the Isis. Camden, in his quaint
style, wrote a poem on the marriage of the two rivers, wherein, after mentioning some
particulars respecting Thame, he says,

" With streams conjoined now Isis and Tam&
" Flow on exulting in united Name."

Soon after this junction, the river, much increased in depth and activity, and seemnig
indeed to exult at its newly-acquired importance, arrives at Shillingford bridge, which is
handsomely built of stone, and occupies a charming site, at the foot of a gentle rising, on
the right or Berkshire side. The high-road to Wallingfbrd passes here, and forms a
beautiful object, as it ascends from the bridge to the woody brow of an eminence. The
square white tower of Bensington, commonly called Benson, a thoroughfare on the great
London road, is seen on the left : the village is ancient. Having passed Benson lock,
the stream flows slowly along, in a serpentine course, to the massive bridge of Walling-
ford, consisting of nineteen arches, built in a style which plainly demonstrates it to be of
very high antiquity. The town of Wallingford, which is pleasantly situated on the right
bank of the river, was, in days of yore, one of the principal places of the Attrehatii, men-
tioned in Caesar's Commentaries. Here are some curious remains of la castle, said to have
been built by the Romans, destroyed by the Saxons and Danes, and afterwards rebuilt by
William I, who fortified it so strongly as to enable it to resist many terrible assaults
made on it, at various periods. During a number of reigns, it was a favorite resort of
royalty, until the time of Cromwell, by whom it was probably dismantled ; as from that
period it gradually fell into decay. The town was originally of great extent, containing,
according to Leland, fourteen parish churches, now reduced to four ; namely, St. Peter's,
St. Mary's, St. Leonard's and All-Hallows. It is said that the town was depopulated bj
the plague, in the year 1348. Formerly, two members were sent hence to parliament ;
but, by the operation of the late reform-bill, one of them was lonped off; the population
not amounting to more than 2476.

^^H^'fP'

THE THAMES. 55

The Thames, on leaving Wallingford, widens its stream, flows on circuitously to the
left, and soon reaches the villages of Newnham-Murrell and Mongewell, situated on th»
left bank, at a short distance from each other. In the vicinity of the latter is seen the
Roman Valium, now called Grimes-Dike. About two miles below this is New Stoke,
in Oxfordshire, where the river becomes much deeper and broader, and the country, on
each side, presents some charming scenery, on which we would willingly expatiate ; but,
necessitated, as we are, to constrain ourselves within the prescribed limits of the work,
and feeUng at the same time the difficulty of avoiding repetition and prolixity in the
description of verdant meadows, woods and hills and flowery dales, which are presented
on the banks of the Thames almost to satiety, we shall henceforth be more concise in our
notices thereon.

At the distance of a mile from the last-mentioned village, we arrive at South or Abbot
Stoke, having passed Moulsford, which lies on the right. The river here acquires a greater
breadth, and, flowing placidly along, reflects on its glassy bosom the shady banks by which it
is bounded. The romantic hills and woods of Streatley now rise to new, and we soon
pass through CUve lock, by the side of its pictiuresque mill, to Goring lock, and to the
twin villages of Goring and Streatley. The former is in Oxfordshire, and anciently had
a priory of Augustin nuns, founded in the reign of Henry II. The church of Goring is
remarkable for its Anglo-Norman architecture. Near this place, at the very margin of the
river, is a medicinal spring, called Springwell, or Goring spring, which was formerly in
great estimation for diseases of the eye and cutaneous eruptions. Streatley derives its name
from its situation near the Icknald-street Tossway, which entered Berkshire at this point.
The village lies on a gentle slope, and is sheltered by a bold range of verdant hills, which
contribute to render the landscape here uncommonly beautiful. Quitting, as if with re-
luctance, this charming neighbourhood, the Thames flows slowly along, and, passing on
the left the pleasant village of Gathampton, arrives at Basildon, on the right. This village
i? noted for the great extent and fertiUty of its surrounding farms. Basildon-park, for-
merly the property and residence of viscount Fane, was purchased by Sir Francis Sykes,
from whom it descended to the present occupant. The park is about three miles in cir-
cumference, and the mansion, erected in the year 1767, has a handsome exterior, and is
tastefully fitted up within.

The Thames, now passing the fine hanging wood, called Hart's-lock wood, and the
beautiful plantations of Coombe lodge, soon approaches the lock and weir of Pangbourn,
and, having passed them, gUdes with accelerated pace through a handsome wooden bridge,
of recent construction, consisting of sixteen small arches (a large one in the centre), which
connects the two pleasant villages of Pangbourn and Whitchurch. In this delightful spot
the angler finds abundant sport ; and the waters being farmed by mine host of the Elephant
inn, for an extent of two miles, his guests may be supplied with the means of piscatory
recreation and the best of entertainment " for man and horse." On leaving the bridge, at
a short distance, the retrospective view is uncommonly picturesque. Looking forward,
a succession of sylvan beauties delights the senses, and, as we approach Mapledur/iam^

56 THE THAMES.

the banks are finely covered with wood. Having passed through the lock of this place,
the weir is seen on the left, between an island (on which is the lock-house) and some ex-
tensive chalk-pits, and the stream, rushing through with violence, produces a cascade o£
uncommon beauty. The village of Maplediurham is nearly obscured by stately trees, and
its church, peering above them, adds much to the highly picturesque effect of the sur-
rounding scenery. The church contains the tombs of several of the Blounts, an ancient
catholic family, whose mansion is delightfully situated near the river. The house was built
in 1581, by Sir Michael Blount, lieutenant of the tower, and still retains its original form.

The river now takes a sweep to the right and left, and then pursues a direct course, be-
tween thickly-wooded hills and verdant islets, to within a short distance of Caversham
bridge, which is chiefly constructed of wood, with fifteen arches, of various forms and di-
mensions, as represented in the annexed engraving. It is divided into two parts by an
islet, on which is an old-fashioned low house. The building on the right has been, for
many generations, a respectable tavern, much resorted to by the lovers of angling.

Caversham is situated on the left side of the bridge, in Oxfordshire, and is justly con-
sidered one of the neatest and most salubrious villages in England. The church is dis-
tant about a quarter of a mile north from the bridge, on an elevation, which commands a
fine view of the town of Reading and the country to the southward and westward. A
gate on the lower side of the church-yard commxmicates with an ancient mansion, for-
merly belonging to the monks of Nutley Abbey in Buckinghamshire, and appears to be
coeval with the church. Its gardens extend, en pente, to the Thames, and are remarkable
for a beautiful combination of the ancient and modern style.

Soon after passing the bridge, the stream is divided by an island of some extent, pret-
tily shaded by willows, on which is situated the lock-house. The principal part of the
river flows to the left, through a picturesque weir, but the navigable branch passes on the
right, by Caversham lock. The ancient town of Reading is now seen to advantage on the
right, and the eye is delighted, as the river winds along in short and rapid curves, with
the interesting objects that alternately present themselves. The majestic old tower of
St. Lawrence, the Forbiury-hill and its wide-branching elms, the grey mouldering re-
mains of the abbey walls, and the county goal, are the nearest prominent points to the
Thames. In the middle of the town appears the broad square tower of St. Mary's, and

THE THAMES. 57

beyond it the curious little spire of St. Giles's. Reading is a place of considerable an-
tiquity. Stow mentions, in his Survey of London, that, " in times past," it was called
Pontium, from the number of bridges bvdlt over the Kennett, a small river, which runs
through the town. The abbey, whereof the solitary remains are the gate and a few
isolated buildings, was foimded by King Henry I, in 1121, for 200 Benedictine monks
and for the refreshment of travellers. It was endowed with ample revenues; many
valuable privileges were annexed to it, and, amongst the rest, that of coining money. The
abbot, being mitred, sat with the lords spiritual in Parliament. Henry died in Nor-
mandy; his body was embalmed, and buried in the abbey church, in the year 1 135. Few
religious establishments in the kingdom possessed wealth and honors in so great a degree as
this abbey; and, at its dissolution, under Henry VIII, its annual income was found to be
1938/. 14^. 3d. ; an enormous sum in those days. On removing part of the ruins some years
since, for the building of the new goal (which now occupies the former site of the abbey),
a broken sarcophagus was found, supposed to be that of the founder, king Henry. It is
preserved in a large hall, still remaining of the old buildings, now occupied as a national
school.

The town of Reading has a population of 15,595, and, from its lying on the Bath and
Bristol road, is at all times gay. The streets are chiefly handsome and spacious, and are
kept in excellent order. The salubrity of the air here occasions a great influx of visitors
during the summer months ; the charming walks in the neighbourhood adding much to its
attractions. This town is celebrated, like Abingdon, for the number of its charitable estab-
lishments; amongst which is the Free-School, situated near the church of St. Lawrence,
founded by Sir Thomas Wlxite (the liberal founder of St. John's College, Oxford), and en-
dowed by him with funds for the future benefit of the boys on the foundation. Arch-
bishop Laud and many other celebrated men were brought up in this school, which was
much distinguished under the late Dr. Valpy, one of the best classics of his time. As
early as the reign of Edward I the manufacture of woollen cloths flourished here ; and it
is said that an opulent clotliier, of the name of Cole, obtained from that monarch a standard
measure, then called a bras, the French word for arm ; being exactly the length of his ma-
jesty's arm. In later times, although much had been done by various encouragers of the
woollen trade, it gradually fell off, chiefly owing to the mal-administration of funds destined
to assist the clothiers. At present the manufactures are confined to coarse linen, silk
ribbons and galloons, in a very small way : and the chief trade is in flour, of which a
great quantity is sent to London. Reading 's a borough by prescription, sending two mem-
bers to parliament. It has three parish churches.

Having received the waters of the Kennet, the Thames winds slowly along to Sunning
lock, beyond which appears, on the right, the niral church of the village of Sunning, and a
small distance farther on is seen the bridge, composed of six arches, the two largest of
which are on the Berkshire side of the water, as there the channel of the river is the deep-
est, affording a safer passage for vessels of burthen. This village is said to have been
in early times a place of great note. No vestige, however, remains to prove the assertioa
iC

58 THE THAMES.

unless it be an old chapel, at the eastern end of the church, dedicated to St. Sarick, which
was much resorted to by pilgrims for the cure of insanityl

Three miles beyond Sunning the river flows in almost a direct course to Cotterell's Vfeitx
On the right, between these two places, a branch of the Lodden, a small river, discharges
itself into the Thames. Another branch gHdes through Windsor forest, and is mentioned
in a well-known poem of Pope ; affording also the subject of the beautiful fable of Lod<ma.
Near Cotterell's lock is the village of Shiplake, in Oxfordshire, the small gothic church
of which, curiously covered with ivy, is much admired. A short distance in advance is
the pleasant village of Wargrave, whose church is also tliickly covered with verdure. The
stream now takes a more northerly direction, and the scenery on each side, blending the
beauties of well- wooded hills and blooming valleys, together with the tasteful seats which
stud the banks on each side, keep attention awake till we arrive at Marsh lock, where the
delightfully situated town of Henley opens to the view on the left, the princely mansion of
Park-place crowning the bold heights on the right, and between them the bridge, re-
markable for lightness and elegance. It is composed of five elliptical arches ; the key-
stones of the centre arch being adorned with sculptured masks, by the chisel of the ho-
nourable Mrs. Damer.

Henley, denominated, by way of distinction, Henley-on-Thames, is considered by anti-
quarians to be the most ancient town in the county of Oxford. Dr. Plot conjectures
that it was the capital of the Ancalites, who revolted to Caesar. The church is a spacious
and handsome gothic structure : its embattled tower is said to have been erected at the
expense of cardinal Wolsey. The situation of the town is highly picturesque, and, from
its being a great thoroughfare, is very lively. Its neatness and salubrity are inviting to
strangers, and lovers of fishing may here find ample amusement. Its population is 3,618.
The steep chalk-hill, on the London side of the bridge, has been for many years formida-
ble to the traveller : stage-passengers generally alight, and walk to the top of it. The la-
bour is amply compensated by the retrospective glances they occasionally take at the valley
below, which presents such a variety of natural beauties as cannot often be found in an}'
country of the world. This eminence forms a part of a ridge of hills which extends from op-
posite Henley through the southern part of Buckinghamshire, and terminates at Tring in
Hertfordshire, consisting mostly of chalk. These hills give the name to the Chiltern hundreds;
Chilt, in the Saxon tongue, meaning chalk. The nominal office of steward of these hun-
dreds is made use of for the convenience of those members of Parliament who wish to
vacate their seats in the house. A visit to Park-place, now the property of the Maitland
family, and once the residence of George IV, when prince of Wales, will be found un--
commonly gratifying, not only for its extensive woods, lawns, and superb views, but for
the taste displayed in the mansion and pleasure grounds, wherein are seen some interesting
ruins of a druidical temple, found in the island of Jersey, and transported hither at a great
expense.

Having passed the bridge of Henley, the river occupies a wider bed, and exhibits a fine
expanse of silvery stream, flowing gracefully by a thickly-wooded islet, on which is

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THE THAMES. 59

erected an elegant summer-house.. , The view of Henley and its neighbourhood from this
ppot is truly delightful. On the right is seen the pretty village of Remenham, and
a little farther on is the small and simple parish church of Fawley, in Buckinghamshire.
Fawley court, the seat of Mr. Freeman, with its lawns and thick woods, has a noble appear-
ance : the mansion was erected from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren. The rivei
near this place forms the boundary line of the counties of Buckingham and Berks, and,
making several bold sweeps, takes a more easterly direction. On approaching Hambleden
the reaches increase in length and become wider. Their banks are well wooded and imdula-
ting, and the lock of this place, with its twofold wiers, adds considerably to the beauty of the
landscape. The church of Hambleden (a handsome edifice) contains an antiquated bap-
tismal font. Near the river is Greenland-Lodge, the seat of the D'Oyley family, built
in 1604. At a short distance below, the stream is divided by an island : the navigable
part being on the right. Flowing on for about two miles, it reaches the picturesque ruins
of Medmenham abbey. Tliis monastery was foimded in the year 1200, by Hugh de Boli-
ber, for Cistercian monks, and as a cell to tlie more considerable abbey of Wobum, whicli
owed its existence also to that nobleman's munificence, A clump of ^villows, near the
river, marks its former extent ; the foundation walls being in part still discemable, and also
a solitary column, in a neighbouring meadow. The abbey house, with its ivy-mantled
walls, is an interesting object, and its effect is heightened by the addition of a modern-
antique tower, cloisters, and other erections, corresponding with the style of the former
building, and executed with great taste ; so that when the hand of Time shall have rubbed
off the sharp edge of the masonry, and covered it with a verdant mantle of ivy and moss,
some future historian may class the modem vnth the ancient pile. During the last centur}',
this abbey acquired great notoriety as the place of meeting of a club of debauchex of
rank and fashion, who held their unhallowed orgies within its venerable walls ; some idea
of which may be formed from a perusal of " Cluysal, or Adventures of a Guinea," a work
much esteemed for its ciitical acumen at the time, when its allusions were understood.

The river, now deviating a little to the left, meanders along, through scenery of a
unique character, to New-lock wear, situated at Hurley , a pleasant village on the Buck-
inghamshire side, where the venerable remains of a monastery, founded in the reign of
William the Conqueror are still seen ; the church being entire, and exhibiting a fine
specimen of carved-work in the doorway : the ancient refectory is converted into stables.
In a mansion buUt here by the Lovelace family, in 1600, many curious objects are pre-
served, which belonged to the former building. The family was ennobled by Charles I.
John, the first lord, was instrumental in promoting the revolution of 1688. Li an im-
mense vault, underneath the house f which probably had been, formerly, well stored with
the good cheer of the monks) were held frequent meetings, for the purpose of concerting
measures necessary to be adopted for securing the liberties of the country, which were
put in danger by the hypocrisy of one monarch and the avowed despotism of another,
it is even stated that the most important papers relating to the revolution were signed in
n r^ess at one end of tlie vault.

60 THE THAMES.

The Thames now makes a bold sweep to the right, and widens in its course until it ar-
rives atT emple lock, where it rushes through an extensive weir, in front of Temple-Hall
the seat of Mr. Williams, member of Parliament for the tovm of Marlow, to whom belong
the copper-mills here erected, which are esteemed the most complete and powerful in
England. The range of luxuriant hanging woods of Bisham now rise in all theii
splendour, and, as we approach them, the abbey is seen, on the Berkshire side, near the
church, at the very edge of the water. This abbey formerly belonged to the Knights-
Templars; but, on the reformation of that order, in the time of Edward II, the whole was
given to the Augustin friars. After the dissolution of monasteries, it fell into various
hands, and was at length purchased by the Hoby family, who, some time previous
to the year 1592, built the present house, attached to the ruins of the abbey. The pro-
perty now belongs to lord Bexley. Within the grounds of the estate, close upon the wier,
stands the modest church of Bisham, containing some interesting monuments.

The stream now flows on in almost a straight line to Marlow, situated on the left, in
the midst of marl beds (whence, probably, its name), and passes under the fine iron sus-
pension bridge, which connects, with one span, the counties of Bucks and Berks. The Thames
here branches out into two channels, one of which, on accoimt of the stream being arrested
by Marlow-lock, rushes over the weir to the right, forming a pleasing cascade, and adding
much to the highly beautiful features of the surrounding scenery. The waters from this
place to Battersea abound in lampreys, which, caught in the spring of the year, were for-
merly sold to the Dutch, in almost incredible numbers. Five hundred thousand were dis-
posed of to them in one season ; being, it is said, about one half of the total number taken
in the Thames in the course of a year. In the time of queen Elizabeth, it appears that
there were seventy locks between Abingdon and London, sixteen flood-gates and seven
weirs ; and not more than ten or twelve barges proceeded farther up the stream than Mar-
low or Bisham. On quitting Marlow lock, the river winds to the left, and the square
embattled tower of Little-Marlow church is seen amidst the foliage on the left. A con-
vent of Benedictine nuns was founded here about the time of Henry II, of which, how-
ever no remains are now visible. Leaving the bold hills and towering woods of Marlow,
the river flows on between low banks, and the heights of Hedsor and Cliefden are seen in
the horizon, about five miles distant, forming a beautifvd boundary to the prospect. Before
we approach those places, we pass near a large farm-house on the left, called Coare'Sy
Bournes or Bones End, near which the rivulet WyTce, or Wick, merges its name and its
waters in those of the Thames. This small stream rises near West- Wycombe in Bucking-
hamshire, and, flowing by High- Wycombe and Wobum, skirts Hedsor parish, until it
reaches the Thames. A little in advance is seen the square tower of Cookham church, in
Berks, separated from the village by a line of trees. The village of Cookham was formerly
a market town, and the tolls of the " New Market" are noted in the Domesday-book, as
amounting to 20^. The manor has, time immemorial, appertained to the crown, and the
tenants, as belonging to the ancient royal demesne, are toll-free in all markets, and exempt
from servino- on juries. The parish extends to part of the town of Maidenhead,

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THE THAMES. 61

After passing Cookham ferry, the' Thames is separated into three branches, the prin-
cipal of which forms a sudden and bold sweep to the left, flowing rapidly by Hedsor wharf;
the middle stream pursues a direct course, and has been rendered more commodious for na-
vigation, the strength of the current being checked by flood-gates. These two branchef
assist in forming the largest island on the river, comprising about 54 acres. On it the late
Sir George Yoimg erected a pleasant villa called, ^' Formosa Place ." The remaining branch
directs its course to the right, by the extensive paper-mills of Mr. Venables. The scenery
now becomes extremely beautiful; the Hedsor heights rising from their chalky beds \vith
the hanging woods above, connected with the bolder and more richly variegated foliage of
Cliefden. Hedsor church occupies a highly picturesque situation, embosomed in trees and
placed on a hillock near the summit of the heights. Hedsor Lodge, the seat of lord Boston,
stands on a commanding eminence, overlooking some of the most picturesque parts of
Berks and Bucks. His lordship's estate joins that of Cliefden, which the witty and profli-
gate Villiers, duke of Buckingham, purchased of the ancient family of Manfelds. The
estate came afterwards into the possession of lord Orkney. The family mansion was de-
stroyed by fire in 1795, and on the site Sir George Warrender, who now owns part of the
estate, has lately erected a noble mansion. Beneath Cliefden-house is a delightful spring
near the river, whose waters are remarkably transparent and cool ; on the margin is a ca-
pacious summer-house, and the beauty of this sequestered spot attracts maxiy pic-nic par-
ties to visit its retired shade in summer. The Thames now pursues its unrufiled course for
some distance in peaceful serenity, beneath the shadowy and refreshing coolness of Cliefden
woods ; it then arrives at Boulters lock and weir. This, in earlier times, was the final
impediment the current of the stream received from artificial means. On the left we ob-
serve Taplow paper-mills. The small village of Taplow lies in Buckinghamshire, re-
moved a short distance from the river, and Taplow-Court is the seat of viscount Kirkwall.
The river is divided into two branches by a small ait, and, again uniting, flows through
Maidenhead bridge, which consists of seven large semicircular arches, built of stone, and
three smaller ones on either side, composed of brick. The bridge, as a structure, pos-
sesses considerable merit, and was erected in 1772, from designs by Sir Robert Taylor.

The importance of Maidenhead as a town may be attributed to the erection of the ori-
ginal bridge, which took place about the time of Edward III, as it was the means of
carrying through it the great western road. The to\vn is called South Ailington by Le-
land, and Sudlington by Stow ; but in the 26th year of the reign of Edward III, it was
incorporated under the name of Maydenhithe, and which, no doubt, is the correct ap-
pellation ; Mayden being often used to signify great or large, corrupted from the old
French word Magne, great, and hithe, the Saxon for haven or port. Camden is of opinion it
derived its present designation from the veneration paid to the head of a British maiden,
which legendary writers have made one of the eleven thousand virgins, said to have been
martyred with St. Ursula, on the banks of the Rhine, near Cologne. On quitting the
bridge, the river flows by a small island and some delightful pleasure-grounds on the right,
and soon arrives at the village of Bray, within whose parochial limits Maidenhead is

62 THE THAMES.

situated. Camden supposes this place to have been inhabited by the Bibroci. It is consi-
dered part of the royal demesne, and possesses the same privileges as Cookham. The
church is an ancient structure, composed of various materials, and exhibiting a mixture
of almost every style of architecture. Bray has, however, been rendered memorable by
the accommodating conscience of one of its early vicars, named Symond Symonds, who
possessed the benefice in the reigns of Henry VIII, Edward VI, and queens Mary and
Elizabeth ; ha\ing become twice a papist and twice a protestant ; and when reproached for
his want of moral principle, which allowed him to alter his religious creed in accordance
with the different political changes of the times, replied, that he governed himself by
what he thought a very laudable maxim, never, on any terms, to part with his vicarage.
The current, on leaving Bray, widens and, flowing to the left, passes Monkey-Island,
which owes its name to a rustic building, erected by Charles, duke of Marlborough, as a
fishing seat. The interior of the refreshment-room was decorated with ludicrous groups
and figures of monkeys, similar to the amusing and clever designs in the Monkeyana of
the talented Landseer. It is a favorite place of resort of the Etonians, in their aquatic
excursions from Windsor, as well as Surley Hall, an excellent inn, which lies a little in
advance, near Willows, the delightful seat of the late H. Townly Ward, Esquire. As the
river progresses, it passes the elegant villa of Down Place, originally occupied by Mr.
Jacob Tonson, the celebrated bookseller, whose name is associated with that galaxy of
genius and wit, which, like another Augustan age, illuminated the early part of the 17th
century. The formation of the kit-cat club was first suggested at a convivial meeting at
this house.

The stream, which in part is extremely rapid, hastens its course towards Windsor. As
we approach this celebrated town, the castle becomes more and more a distinct and im-
posing object, until, at the winding of the Thames at Clewer, near a rich and stately
cluster of elms, situated at the extremity of a fine meadow, called the Brocas, famed in
the annals of cricketting, the various parts of this regal and splendid building are blended
into one rich architectural mass, rising from the town, which forms its base, and display-
ing simultaneously its extent and magnificence. The several abutments and massive
towers appear firom hence more pictorially arranged and grouped than at any other place
on the river, as they unite in forming a splendid coup-d'ceil, in which beauty, dignity and
grandeur are equally combined. Eton college also, with its fine gothic towers, greatly en-
riches the scenery, as it stands unencumbered by the contiguous buildings, and in such
a situation as to bring it within reach of the eye in the general disposition of objects.
The humble spire of Clewer church, together with the village, which lies on the right
forcibly contrasts its sylvan simplicity with the proud and beautiful scenery beyond it.

The place designated New Windsor, in contradistinction to the village of Old Windsor,
which is of higher antiquity, is a borough and market town ; situated at the east end of the
county of Bucks, and containing 7103 inhabitants. The name is derived from the ser-
pentine directions of the river, which in Saxon is Windleshora, or Winding shore or hanks.
It is about twenty-two miles from London by land, and forty-six by water. The delight-

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THE THAMES. 63

fill situation of the place has made it the favorite resort of most of our monarchs, even
from the time of William the Conqueror. Edward I, in 1276, made it a firee borough ;
since whose reign it has sent two members to parliament. The Castle, which has been
not inaptly termed a type of the British constitution, in its strength, its grandeur and its
antiquity, is erected on the summit of a hiU, on whose declivity the town has been built.
Edward the Confessor granted the site of the town and castle to the abbey of St. Peter,
at Westminster ; but the eligibility of the spot as a mihtary post was immediately per-
ceived by William the Conqueror, who exchanged it with the abbey for some lands in
Essex, and constructed a fortress of considerable size. Henry I enlarged the building,
and erected a chapel. Edward I and II made Windsor their principal residence, and that
" very mirror of chivalry," Edward III, was bom here. This enterprising monarch nearly
rebuilt the whole of the castle, under the superintendence of WilUam of Wykeham, and
there instituted the order of the Garter. Many alterations took place during the suc-
ceeding reigns, until an important addition was made by order of queen Elizabeth, in the
formation of the terrace walk. This noble promenade was enlarged by Charles II, and is now
1870 feet in length, and commands a finely varied and extensive prospect. The castle was
the principal place of residence of George III, who, amongst other alterations, partly re-
stored the north front to its original appearance. During the reign of George IV,
niunerous and expensive additions and improvements were commenced under the manage-
ment of Sir JefTry Wyatville, which have, during his present majesty's reign, been com-
pleted. Tlie parish-church, which is newly erected, is a fine gothic structure.

The small town of Eton is connected with Windsor by a new and handsome iron bridge
of three arches. This place is indebted for its notoriety to the venerable and celebrated
seminary, at which, for nearly four centuries, the germs of knowledge have been implanted
in the expanding minds of youth ; and the effect of the liigh and classical education here
attained is to be witnessed in the after life of many individuals, who have rendered them-
selves conspicuous in literature, the cabinet and the field. The college was founded by
Henry VI, in 1440, and contains at present on its establislunent a provost, vice-provost,
six fellows, a master, under master, assistant, seventy king's scholars, seven lay-clerks and
ten choristers. The chapel, constructed in all the elegance of gothic architecture, forms an
interesting and beautiful object on the Buckinghamshire side of the river.

Soon after passing through Windsor bridge the stream divides ; the main body of the
water flowing over a weir to the left, and washing the meadows of Eton college, while a
canal has been formed to the right, thrdugh a lock, for the accommodation of the na-
vigator. The current now increases its rapidity, skirting the walls of Windsor little-park,
and passing through Datchet bridge, which is a substantial wooden structure, witii
nine arches, on stone piers. The river, after a long and widened reach, meanders to the
left. On the right, a lengthened canal and lock have been formed, in order to shorten
the navigation and avoid the force of the stream. The conflux of the waters again takes
place near old Windsor, whose ancient church, grey with the hoar of many a Saxon frost,
\ias been lately repaired. The Saxon kings, from an early period, had a palace at this place,

61- THE THAMES.

in which Edward the Confessor held his court. It was occasionally inhabited by the kings
of England, until the year 1110, when Henry I kept his court, for the first time, at
Windsor castle ; after which it is supposed to have lost its attractions. The site of the pa-
lace is not known.

The river, passing Lions Green on the right, a small hamlet on the verge of the coun-
ties of Berks and Surry, winds to the left, and flows between Runnyraede and Magna
Charta island, places that must be ever hallowed in the memory of Englishmen ; as from
the period when king John signed the Magna Charta may be dated the first dawning of
British freedom. The small island opposite Runnymede, now covered with willows, was
the temporary fortified residence of the barons, where, in 1215, they retired from the
pressure of their surrounding army, personally to receive the signature of the king to
the great palladium of Enghsh liberty. Runnymede is on the confines of Surry and
Berks, and forms an excellent race-course, on which Egham races are annually held. On
the opposite side of the river, in Buckinghamshire, is Ankerwyke-House, formerly a nun-
nery of the Benedictine order, founded in the reign of Henry II : few vestiges however of
the original building are now remaining. The stream, passing through the weir of Egham
lock, arrives at Staines bridge. As we approach Staines, in the meadows on the left,
which form the boundary of the counties of Berks and Middlesex, stands the London /
Mark-Stone, the ancient Hmits of the jurisdiction of the city of London on the Thames,
with the inscription " God preserve the City of London, a. d. 1280." The towns of Staines
and Egham are united by a new and elegant stone bridge of three broad elliptical arches.
The new church of Staines is a handsome edifice, and occupies a conmianding situation.
Egham is a small town, with a church also recently erected. Sir John Denham resided in
this parish, whose stn acquired the just and merited rank of an original author, by an
excellent poem he composed, and to which he gave the title of " Cooper's Hill," the name
of an eminence situated in the neighbourhood, near the London road.

The Thames now ghdes hastily on, and, forming some delightful reaches, passes Laleham.
In the parish-church is an altar-piece, painted by Harlo\V, of Peter walking on the sea.
Laleham-park is the property of the earl of Lucan, and was the residence of Donna
Maria, queen of Portugal, when in England. The river, becoming very shallow, runs with
considerable strength, until it reaches Chertsey weir and lock, on escaping from which it
passes through Chertsey-bridge, which is built of stone, and consists of five principal and
two collateral arches. The ancient market-town of Chertsey, formerly written Cheortesy,
and called by Bede Ceroti Insula, or Cherotuss Island, is situated in Surry, about a
mile from the river ; previous to the dissolution of monasteries it was a place of considera-
ble importance. The abbey was originally founded in G66, by Erkenwald, bishop of Lon-
don. It was afterwards destroyed by the Danes, but refounded for Benedictine monks
by king Edgar and bishop Ethelwold. It appears to have been a noble structure ; its
extensive precincts occupying a space of four acres. Some of the outer walls are the only
remains of this once celebrated edifice. Cowley, the poet, was an inhabitant of the town,
and died here in 1667, in an old mansion, called the Porch-house j part of which is still

/ . ^

THE THAMES. Ci

preserved. Camden is of opinion that Julius Caesar, when he first invaded Britain, crossed
the Thames at Chertsey. About a mUe westward of the town, on the declivity of St.
Ann's Hill, where formerly was a priory of that name, is the seat of the late Right Hon.
Charles James Fox. After several circuitous windings, the river reaches Weybridge lock
and weir, close to which the river Wey unites with the parent stream. The rural village
of Weybridge lies on the right, about a mile from the Thames, at the extremity of Oat-
lands-Park, whose finely-wooded grounds form a beautiful line of scenery along the banks,
as far as Walton bridge, before arriving at which we pass the village of Shepperton on
the left, where, at the parsonage house, the learned Erasmus spent many of his earlier
days with his preceptor, William Grocyn, the then incumbent. Contiguous to this village
is the hamlet of Lower-Halliford. These latter places are much frequented by the disciples
of Isaac Walton, and the name of the Purdies, as fishermen and punters, are enrolled
in the piscatory annals of this portion of the river. Between Halliford and Walton-bridge,,
at a short turn of the stream, is Cow ay Stakes, a spot where several piles of hardened oak
have been foimd, sixteen feet in length, and shod with iron, supposed, by some writers,,
though vnthout much probability, to have been placed there by the Britons, under
Casswelaunus, to prevent the passage of Caesar's troops.

Walton bridge, wliich was erected in 1 787, is composed of four broad arches across the
river, and seven over the land, to which are annexed 15 arches, continuing the main road
over the meadows. The rustic village of Walton is prettily situated, a short distance from
the river. The church, which was erected in the 12th century, has been lately repaired,
and within its walls lie the remains of William Lilly, astrologer to Charles I. The mo-
nument of Mrs. Sarah D'Oyley, patroness of Chantrey, is one of the earlier specimens of
tliat eminent sciJptor's performance. Oatlands Park, the favorite residence of queen Eliza-
beth, is rich in foliage and pictui'esque groups of trees. The palace, of which no vestiges
are now remaining, stood near the celebrated grotto, constructed at considerable expense
by the duke of Newcastle, and considered one of the most beautiful specimens of the kind
in England. The present mansion, erected after designs by Holland, was long the resi-
dence of the duke and duchess of York. The river, on quitting Walton, assumes a more
direct course mth a deepened current, and soon reaches Sunbury lock and weir : Sunbury
lies on the left. A short distance in advance is the residence of tlie St. Quentin family:
the house appears an epitome of i\\e facade of Hampton-Court, and has often been com-
pared to that palace in miniature. The stream now becomes rapid, and quickly arrives at
Hampton, whose new and elegant church has often afforded an interesting object at the
different windings of the stream. On the Surry bank is a long-extended line of common,
called Moulsey-Hurst, once famed in pugilistic history, and on which annual races are
lield. The river, meandering to the right by a small cut, laves with its limpid waters the
lawn of Hampton-House, the delightful villa of the late David Garrick. On the verge
of the Thames he erected a small but elegant temple, dedicated to Shakspeare, and placed
within it a statue of the " immortal bard" by Roubillac. The channel of the river now
becomes very confined, until it attains Hampton lock and weir, when the current rushes

66 THE THAMES.

with considerable impetuosity through Moulsey, commonly called Hampton-Bridge. East
Moulsey, or Molesey, is situated in Surry, nearly opposite Hanrpton- Court, at the con-
fluence of the river Mole or Moule with the Thames. The village was granted by Charles II
to Sir James Clarke, grandfather to the late lord of the manor, who had a ferry thence to
Hampton-Court, in the room whereof he built a bridge, which, in 1753, was replaced by
the present light wooden structure. The palace of Hampton, which stretches its mass
of red brick building along the left bank of the Thames, was originally erected by cardinal
Wolsey, and fitted up with the usual magnificence of the cardinal's princely taste. In
order to avoid the invidious feeling which this superb mansion excited, he presented it to
Henry VIII, in 1526, who, in return, graciously permitted him to i-eside in his palace at
Richmond. The principal part of the old palace was taken down in 1690, and the present
structure raised by king William III, under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren. The
park, including Bushy-Park, with the gardens and the grounds on which the palace now
stands, are three miles in circumference. The gardens, consisting of forty-four acres, laid
out by London and Wise, in the reign of King William, still retaining the mathematical
precision and fashion of that period. In a grape-house is a vine, of the black Hamburg
kind, which is much celebrated for its size and the abundance of its produce. The collec-
tion of pictures are numerous and interesting, comprising the cartoons of Raphael. A
pasture, near the palace, designated, in an old survey, the " toying-place," forms the site
of the present " Toy Inn," at the foot of the bridge.

The stream now, with shallow and rapid current, winds circuitously along the walls of
the park to Hampton- Wick and Kingston. On the Surry side we pass Thames-Ditton,
where the Swan Inn, pleasantly situated on the margin of the river, and divided from the
main part of the Thames by two smaU islets, is much frequented by anglers, who are at-
tracted by the barbel and ground fishing obtained in the vicinity.

The ancient market-town of Kingston-on-Thames is connected with the village of Hamp-
ton-Wick, in Middlesex, by a handsome stone bridge of five broad arches, erected in 1825.
Kingston was a place of importance as early as the union of the Saxon heptarchy ; a council
having been, held here, at which Egbert and his son Ethelwolf presided. In the record
noticing the assembly, the town is designated Kyningenstun, famosa ilia locus. Several
of the Saxon kings were crowned in the St. Mary chapel, attached to the church ; but
which fell down in 1730. Close to the north side of the church is a large stone, on which,
according to tradition, the kings were placed during their inauguration. The summer
county assizes are generally held in the town-hall, and formerly the town sent members to
parliament, until the inhabitants petitioned to be relieved from the onerous privilege. The
church is a spacious edifice, and appears to have been erected in the reign of Richard II.

Returning again to the banks of the river, we find the current, with quickened pace,
hastening towards Teddington lock and weir, which are the last impediments offered to the
free flowing of the stream ; and at this place all influence from the diurnal influx of tide
ceases to be experienced. The village of Teddington is prettily situated on the left, and
removed a short distance from the water. The name has been supposed to owe its origin

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protector, the duke of Somerset, who, in 1547, caused the building of the present edifice.
Queen Mary restored it to the Bridgetines, who were expelled by Elizabeth, and, after
wandering through Flanders, eventually settled at Lisbon. In 1604 the mansion was
granted to the earl of Northumberland ; in the possession of whose family it now remains.
The town of Brentford next appears on the left, and the village of Kew on the right.
Brentford receives its appellation from a brook, called the Brent, which here flows into the
Thames. In 1016, king Edward Ironside defeated the Danes at this place with great
slaughter. The present palace at Kew was formerly the seat of Mr. Samuel Molyneux,
secretary to king George II, became the property of Frederick, prince of Wales, and
was long the residence of George III. The gardens, which contain 120 acres, were orna-
mented by Sir Wm. Chambers with a number of buildings, both in the European and
Asiatic style. The botanical gardens rank the finest in the kingdom. Kew-bridge is a
stone edifice of seven arches, and was opened in 1789. Leaving the hamlet of Strand-on-
the-Green on the left, the river winds circuitously by Mortlake and Barnes. The church
at the latter village is one of the most ancient structures in the vicinity of London. The
river, sweeping boldly to the right, leaves Chiswick on the left. Chiswick-house, the cele-
brated seat of the duke of Devonshire, was built in 1729, by Richard, earl of Burlington,
after a well-known villa of PaUadio, and is universally allowed to be a model of taste. The
river, divided by a small islet, unites at Hammersmith, and flows through the spacious
arches of a new and elegant suspension iron bridge. A little in advance stood Brandenburg-
house, the residence of the margravine of Anspach. The house was originally built by Sir
Nicholas Crispe, a celebrated merchant, soldier, and royalist, in the reign of Charles I. It
became the property of prince Rupert, but was aftenvards purchased by the margravine
of Anspach, and was finally assigned by the government as a residence for queen Caroline,
who ended in it her eventful life ; since which it has been razed to the ground. A fine
expanded reach now appears, delightfully shaded on the right by lofty trees, near the spot
called Barn-Elms, which has been made the theme of many a past poet and has also acquired
notoriety from two houses situated here, one, an ancient mansion, called " queen Elizabeth's
dairy," where Jacob Tonson lived and died ; and in a gallery which he annexed was held the
celebrated kit-cat club. The other, the Manor-house, was granted by Elizabeth to Sir Francis
Walsingham, who, in 1 589, entertained the queen and the whole of her court. It was
afterwards purchased by sir Richard Hoare, whose family still retain possession of the
property. On the left bank is a beautiful thatched cottage, called Rose-Mount. The river,
winding gently to the left, arrives at the villages of Putney and Fulham, united by a wooden
bridge, erected by subscription in 1729. The origin of the name of Putney is involved in
much uncertainty. In Domesday-book it is denominated Putlelei, and is written in subse-
quent records, Puitenheth. The place, however, is of great antiquity, and lies pleasantly
situated on the Surry shore of tin- river, at the foot of the rising ground leading to Wim-
bledon. Bishop West's chapel, annexed to the south side of the ancient parish-church, is
an object of considerable architectural interest and beauty. The name of the twin rillagc
of Fuliiam in Middlesex derives its etymology from Fu/lenfiatimc, or Fullenhobne signifying

70 THE THAMES.

voluerum domus, or the resort of fowls, " because, being marshy, many waterfowls used to
harbour here." The church has been the burial place of nearly all the bishops of London
since the restoration ; and the episcopal palace, which is situated here, has been, from an
early period, their summer residence. The mansion is of brick, and was built by bishop
Fitzjames, in the reign of Henry VII. The celebrated gardens, with the house, and a field
called the warren, comprise about thirty-seven acres, surrounded by a moat. Bishop
Grindall, one of the earliest encouragers of botany, and bishop Compton, rendered the
gardens remarkable by the introduction of many new plants, shrubs, and forest-trees.
The tower and small wooden spire of the old church rise prettily from amidst the surround-
ing foliage. A new church was also erected in 1828. On passing through the bridge,
the large red house, with a fine verdant lawn, situated on the right, was originally the resi-
dence of Sir Joshua Vanneck, and once the boast of the river ; but so many elegant villas
have of late years adorned the banks, that this respectable mansion appears to have lost
its former consideration. A white house, standing near the bridge, and which has been lately
repaired and altered as the parsonage-house, was inhabited by Richardson, at the time ho
composed his celebrated novel of Sir Charles Grandison.

The broad and ample stream now winds majestically to the left, and reaches Wandsworth ;
a range of common fields uniting the village with that of Putney, On the left, as far as
Parson's-green ferry, are situated some delightful summer residences, from whence a conti-
nuation of meadows and kitchen gardens, for which the neighbourhod is famed, extend
along the banks as far as Chelsea. Wandsworth or Wandlesworth, is situated " on the blue
transparent Vandalis," or river Wandle, which rises near Croydon, whose waters are of
considerable importance in a commercial point of view ; as several printing-grounds, vari-
ous mills and extensive dye-houses are situated on the banks. The church, with the ex-
ception of the square tower, which is of early date, was rebuilt in 1780. On St. Ann's
Hill, at the south-eastern extremity of Wandsworth, a new church was erected in 1824,
from designs by Smirke. The Ionic portico is copied from the temple of Ilyssus. Garrat
lane, between this village and Tooting, was formerly the scene of a mock election for a
" Mayor of Garrat," after every new parliament. The custom was kept up by a subscrip-
tion of the neighbouring publicans, and to which Foote, in his amusing dramatic farce,
has given no small celebrity. Leaving Wandsworth, and passing on the right a large dis-
tillery and silk-ribbon manufactory, the river, bending to the left, forms an open expanse of
water, called Battersea reach. Gardens, fields and a few pretty villas occupy the ground
between the last village and Battersea. This place, in the Conqueror's survey is mentioned
as Patricesey ; in later writings, Battrichsey , Battersey and Battersea ; Patricesey de-
noting in Saxon, Peters water, or river ; and the record in which it is thus written alludes
to its having been given to St. Peter ; the manor being granted to the abbey of St. Peter
, at Westminster, in exchange for Windsor. Battersea is remarkable as having been the
birth-place of Henry St. John, viscount Bolingbroke, who died here in 1751. The family
seat was a venerable structvu-e, and contained forty rooms on a floor. On the site of the partly
demolished buildings has been erected an horizontal air-mill and malt-houses. The only

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THE THAMES. 71

portion of the original building now extant is the house attached to the mill ; one of the
parlours of which, fronting the Thames, is lined- with cedar and inlaid, having been the fa-
vourite study of Pope, and the scene of many a literary conversation between him and his
friend, St. John. York-House, near the river, is supposed to have been built by Laurence
Booth, archbishop of York, and annexed to the see as a residence. The church, which is
situated close to the water, was rebuilt in 1777. On the opposite bank is a pretty villa, oc-
cupied by the late Lord Cremorne, and now converted into a place of public amusement,
called the Stadium.

The river is here, in parts, extremely shallow at low water ; having expanded its surface
in forming a bay on the Chelsea side. The retrospective view is very picturesque :
the fine reach, conducting the eye to the Wandsworth hills, backed by the woods of
Wimbledon park and the bridge of Battersea in front, creates this spot an interesting por-
tion of the stream. The bridge, which connects Chelsea with the Surry banks, is built of
wood ; and it is much to be lamented, where the river possesses such an ample breadth,
and the situation is so contiguous to the metropolis, that the Thames cannot boast
a more elegant and commodious structure. Chelsea, which extends from the foot of the
bridge along the Middlesex shore, was formerly written Chelche-hith and Chelsyth, which
Somner derives from ceale, signifying, in Saxon, chalk, and hythe, a harbour. Camden
calls it Chelsey, as if it were Shelfsey, from the shelves of sand near it. Another deriva-
tion alludes to it as ceald and hythe, or cold harbour, "on account of its bleak situation,
standing open to the river, which is of considerable breadth." The original parish church
was erected in the reign of Edward the 2nd, or about the beginning of the four-
teenth centui;y. The present structure was built in 1667. It contains, among otlier in-
teresting monuments, that of Sir Thomas More, who resided in a handsome edifice, which
occupied the site of the present range of houses, called Beaufort-row. Here the capricious
Henry used frequently to resort, to 'partake of his subject's festive board and enjoy his
learned and eloquent conversation. Holbein also resided three years with the chancellor,
and was here first introduced to Henry VIII. Erasmus has given an excellent description
of his friend's domestic establishment. One of the distinguishing features also of the vil-
lage are the medicinal and botanical gardens, containing four acres of ground, enriched
with a variety of plants, both domestic and exotic, and adorned with two fine cedars of
Lebanon, of considerable size, planted in 1685. This freehold piece of ground was the gift
of Sir Hans Sloane to the Apothecaries' company. In Cheyne walk, which owes its name
to lady Jane Cheyne, who is buried in the church, stood the episcopal palace of the see of
Winchester, purchased by Parliament in 1664, on the alienation of the demesnes belong-
ing to the bishopric in Southwark and Bishop's Waltham, and has since been pulled down.
Towards the middle of last century a famous manufactory for china-ware was established,
^ which ir England has never been excelled in the perfection of its designs or the beauty
of its coluur, but it was too expensive for that period, and did not reward the ingenuity
of its proprietor.

The principal object, however, at Chelsea, of attraction, as well as national pride and

^2 THE THAMES.

gratification, is the receptacle for those brave veterans, who, wounded and maimed in
defending the liberties of their country, find within its walls an asylum of peace and comfort,
afforded by a grateful country, as a reward for the dangers incurred during many perilous
campaigns. The building of the royal military hospital was commenced by king Charles II,
and completed in 1692, during the reign of William and Mary, after designs by Sir Christo-
pher Wren. Its origin is generally ascribed to Sir Stephen Fox, grandfather of the late
honorable Charles James Fox, one of its most munificent benefactors, though a tradition
exists, that it is indeot»jd for its establishment to Nell Gwynn, who might doubtless have
employed her influence with the king, to the furtherance of an object so honorable to her
royal protector. A little in advance of the gardens belonging to the hospital, is the spot
once occupied by the splendid amphitheatre of Ranelagh, long the favorite place of
fashionable amusement, and formerly the property of the earl of Ranelagh. The deserted
grounds have been purchased by the commissioners of the hospital, as a place of resort for
the pensioners ; and lately lord John Russell, to make it more attractive, has caused a large
portion to be dug up, and arranged in little plots for gardens ; thus affording to the old
soldier a source of amusement at once novel and interesting. The river, after flowing
through Battersea bridge, forms a broad expanse of water, known as Chelsea reach, and,
during particular winds, is fatally notorious for the agitation and roughness of its waves.
It is bordered on the right by Battersea fields where, on the banks, is a place of public resort,
called " the Red-house," a resting-place for aquatic parties, and celebrated of late from the
numerous pigeon-matches here decided. As we approach Vauxhall, a neat gothic church
attracts the sight, lately erected at the extremity of the fields, as a chapel of ease to the
parish of Battersea. Winding to the left, tlie Thames flows through the light and elegant
arches of Yauxhall bridge, composed of iron, on stone piers. The miserable and unpic-
turesque appearance which the Surry shore presents is fully compensated by the prospect
which offers itself more in advance, comprising the venerable form of Lambeth palace on
the right, with the grey and weather-beaten tower of the church. Westminster abbey,
rearing its stately mass of gothic architecture, with the " hall of Rufus," on the opposite
banks, while Westminster bridge stretches its ample arches across the stream, with the
dome of St. Paul's, and many a lofty tower and tapering spire rising in rapid succession
beyond it ; near the bridge on the left is a heavy pile of building, called the penitentiary
prison, aud further on the four massive towers of St. John's church.

The prescribed limits of the present work, which the proprietors are un\villing to extend,
as they are desirous of preserving their faith with the public, in not exceeding the specified
number of monthly parts, has necessarily prevented digression, and materially abridged
the descriptive. It is therefore impracticable to attempt giving any detailed account of the
immense metropolis of the British empire, at which we have now arrived. We may, however,
briefly allude to some of the facts which have contributed to render it the most extensive
and opulent capital in Europe.

The situation of London, regarding the circumstances of traffic, is admirably chosen,
possessing, by means of the " noble Thames," every advantage that can be derived from a

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THE THAMES. 7^

uOa-port, without its dangers, uniting in itself all the benefits arising from navigation and
commerce with those of a metropolis, at which all the public business of a great nation is
transacted, becoming the mercantile and political head of the three kingdoms. The extent
of its commercial operations, aided by improved machinery, immense capital, and specula-
tive enterprise, has increased its wealth and strengthened its resources, rendering the
power and influence of the country almost paramoxmt over the whole world.

Before quitting the city of Westminster, which was formerly separated a mile distant
from that of London, we must more particularly allude to that splendid edifice, Westmin-
ster-abbey ; the venerable splendor of its gothic architecture, the antiquity and beauty of
its monumental sculpture, and the illustrious and revered ashes it incloses, rendering it the
most interesting religious edifice in the kingdom. Henry VII's chapel, which approximates
nearest the river, is, as a recent author justly remarks, " the admiration of the universe,"
such inimitable perfection appears in every part of the whole composition, which looks so
far exceeding human excellence, that it appears knit together by the fingers of angels, pur-
suant to the direction of Omnipotence.

The river, on leaving Westminster-bridge, winds circuitously to the right, passing on the
left part of the ancient palace of Whitehall, and a little in advance the elegant and newly-
erected market of Hungerford, as well as a fine row of houses, called Adelphi terrace,
flows through the splendid arches of Waterloo bridge, a structure acknowledged by Canova
as unrivalled in Europe. On emerging from the arches, the stately building of Somerset-
house, with its noble terrace, presents an imposing and beautiful object. The erection of
the present edifice was commenced in 1774, from designs by Sir William Chambers, on the
site of one of the most beautiful remains of the architecture of the IGth century — the palace
of the protector Somerset. The Surry banks of the river are ocupied by wharves, foundries,
breweries and diflferent manufactories. As we progress, the delightful gardens belonging to
the Temple Inns of Court attract our attention on the left. This spot, as the ancient Al-
satia, has been of late years rendered familiar to the public by the interesting account de-
tailed in the excellent novel of " the Fortunes of Nigel," by Sir Walter Scott. The Thames
continues bending in a serpentine direction to the right, passing through the stone arches
of Blackfriars-bridge. St. Paul's cathedral, whose lofty cupola and mass of beautiful ar-
chitecture has long excited admiration, now appears to considerable advantage, towering
in supremacy above the dwellings and numerous steeples with which it is environed. In
1675, the foundation-stone of the present structure was laid, on the site of the ancient
abbey of St. Paul, and was finished in 1710, under the guidance and superintendence of Sir
Christopher Wren. It is 2,292 feet in circumference and 340 feet in height. The whole
expense of rebuilding the cathedral was £736,000, which was almost entirely raised by a small
duty on coals. In magnificence of exterior architecture it is only surpassed by St. Peter's
at Rome ; and though this famed cathedral is of larger dimensions than that of St. Paul, yet
It is worthy remark, that St. Peter's was 145 years erecting, was the work of twelve succe«-
sive architects, and exhausted the revenues of nineteen popes. We now approach the South-
wark-bridge, the stupendous iron arches of which unite, with three spans, the city of London

74 THE THAMES.

and the borough of Southwark. The centre arch extends 240 feet ; being 38 feet wider than
the monument is high. Southwark, having been granted to the city by Edward III, for
the annual payment of £10, in the reign of Edward VI was formed into a twenty-sixth
ward, by the name of " Bridge- Ward- Without." The falling tide, which, on passing London-
bridge, is relieved of all obstruction from the different bridges, begins to acquire more force,
and we quickly glide beneath the arches of the new London-bridge, which rivals in beauty
of design and solidity of architecture the celebrated bridge, we have before referred to,
of Waterloo. It has five immense semi-elliptic arches, the centre embracing 152 feet, and
the two narrowest 130 feet each, which latter exceeds in extent the span of any other
stone bridge in Europe. Immediately on leaving the bridge are seen the picturesque ruins
of the old London-bridge, erected between the years 1176 and 1209, and the first that
crossed the river at the metropolis, and from whence the port of London originally com-
menced.

The view which now meets the astonished gaze at once impresses the mind with the
prodigious extent of the commercial interests of Great Britain. The numberless vessels
moored in the pool seem, in the mazy winding of the stream, to become a dense forest of
lofty masts, beyond which the eye cannot penetrate. The average number of British ships
and vessels lying in the river and docks is estimated at 13,000 to 14,000, and for which
3000 to 4000 barges and other small craft are employed in loading and unloading. Nearly
3000 barges and other craft are engaged in the inland trade, and 3000 wherries and small
boats for passengers. About 10,000 labourers are employed in lading and discharging ships,
and 8000 watermen in navigating the wherries and small craft. About 20,000 coasting
vessels annually enter the port of London ; 7000 of which, it is calculated, are laden with
grain, 6000 with coals, and 7000 vsdth various goods. The value of merchandize annually
received and discharged is computed at between £60,000,000 and £70,000,000, and the
official value of goods wareiioused is about £19,000,000. The scene of this enormous traffic
occupies a space of more than four miles in length, reaching from London-bridge to Dept-
ford, and from 400 to 500 yards in average breadth, consisting of the upper, middle, and
lower pools and the space between Limehouse and Deptford ; the river also averaging in
depth about twelve feet; the navigation of which, exclusive of the constant arrival and de-
parture of the numerous vessels, is now annually obstructed by about 11,000 voyages,
performed by various steam -boats. It is calculated that, including the imports and exports,
as well as the receipts from the inland markets, &c., that a sum of £120,000,000 worth of
property is annually moving to and from the metropolis. London comprises 1,453,662
inhabitants, and 178 parishes, which extend from east to west, that is from Poplar to
Knightsbridge, seven miles and a half in length, and in breadth, from north to south, or from
Islington to Walworth, about five miles ; the circumference of the whole being computed at
about thirty miles, including an area of 12,000 square acres, of which the Thames occupies
about 1120, leaving 11,880 square acres as the space employed by the buildings and streets,
the latter of which, including the lanes and courts, comprise about 8000. Resuming our
course on the river, we observe the ancient fisK-market of Billingsgate on the left, and theo.

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THE THAMES. 75

the magnificent building of the Custom-house, stretching in lengthened Une its mass of
stone architecture, the river front extending 488 feet, with a fine wharf, skirting the Thames.
The first stone was laid in 1813, and the whole building was completed in 1817, after designs
by Mr. David Laing and Mr. Smirke. In 1268 the half-yearly amount of the customs for
foreign merchandize was only £75. 6s. lOd. ; since which it has rapidly augmented, until, at
the present period, the annual revenue exceeds £9,000,000.

At a short distance in advance appear the four small cupola turrets of the Tower of
Ix)ndon ; a fortress which must ever be fraught with interest to the English spectator, as
being intimately connected with the earliest annals of his country. For the space of five
centuries the Tower was the residence of the court, but ceased to be honored by the royal
presence on the accession of queen Ehzabeth. The white-tower, which is the most ancient
and complete portion of the edifice, was built by WiUiam the Conqueror. The fortifications
occupy a space of nearly thirteen acres, surrounded by a moat 3156 feet in circuit, suppHed
with water firora the Thames. On the river side is a broad and handsome esplanade,
separated by a fosse from the Tower. Quickly passing St. Catherine's and the London
docks, with the parish of Wapping, we leave on the right Horsleydown, which formerly
was a meadow for feeding cattle, and now forms the communication between Southwark
and Rotherhithe, which latter place derives its name from the Saxon word rother, a sailor,
and hithe, a haven. The river now becomes a vast and watery avenue, formed by tiers of
ships, whose thick and lofty masts obsciure, in great measure, the various objects on the
shore. The banks, however, being chiefly occupied with warehouses, granaries and wharves,
afford few interesting points of view. A little to the eastward of St. Mary's church,
Rotherhithe, is the opening to the Thames-tunnel, an undertaking projected by the eminent
and enterprising engineer, Mr. Brunei, and which, though only partially carried into effect,
through accident and want of funds, will, if finished, form an extraordinary completion
of the bold and novel attempt of boring a subaquean communication between Middlesex
and Surry, and will extend 1300 feet; being 38 feet in width and 20 in height, with 15
feet thickness of earth between the crown of the arch and the bed of the river. On the
right bank is the parish of Shadwell, with the hamlets of Ratcliffe and Poplar, and, re-
moved from the river, the heavy tower of St. Anne's, Limehouse, forms a conspicuous but
inelegant object. The channel of the Thames now becomes considerably straightened, and,
passing the immense granary of Messrs. Scott, Garnett and Palmer (which is capable of
containing 50,000 quarters of grain) the river sweeps round by Cuckold's-point, passing on
the left the flood-gates of the Regent's-canal, Limehouse-cut, which unites wth the river
Lea at Bromley, the entrance basin to the West-India docks, and also the city-canal, which
was formed by Act of Parliament, in order to save the circuitous navigation round the Isle
of Dogs ; but the advantages anticipated not having been realised, it has been purchased by
the West-India dock company and composes now the timber-dock. On the right are the
commercial docks, and a little lower is Earl-Sluice, which divides Surry from Kent ; a
small house, covered with ivy, marking the boundaries of the two counties. The river,
becoming less encumbered with shipping, exhibits a fine open expanse of water, called

76 THE THAMES.

Limehouse-reach, and in advance appears Deptford church, with the royal dock-yard, built
in the reign of Henry VIII, and in the back ground Flamsteed-house, with the rich foliage
of Greenwich park. As the river gently winds to the left, the splendid building of Greenwich
hospital gradually develops its architectural beauties. This stately edifice was erected in
1694, by king William and queen Mary, for the maintenance and support of aged and
wounded seamen, on the site of the ancient palace of Flacentia, built by Humphrey,
duke of Gloucester, in the 15th century. Charles II, finding the old palace in a state of
decay, from the want of necessary repairs during the usurpation, ordered it to be taken
down, and began to execute the design of a very magnificent residence on the spot, of
which one of the present wings of the hospital was the only part completed, and which,
at the suggestion of Sir Christopher Wren, king William granted, with nine acres of
land, for the present building. The name of Greenwich is derived from the Saxon words
Grena-wie, or Green Bay. King Charles also caused to be pulled down the tower,
called Greenwich castle, and with part of the old materials erected a house or observatory,
for the use of Mr. Flamsteed, the celebrated astronomer, whose name the building still re-
tains, and forms a back-ground to the hospital, when viewed from the river. From the
meridian of Greenwich, all Enghsh astronomers make their calculations. The reach formed
at Greenwich by the Thames is broad and open, being bordered by a line of marshy ground,
esteemed one of the richest pasturages in England, denominated the Isle of Dogs, the
name of which is traditionally derived from the circumstance of king Edward III, when
the court resided at Greenwich, having kept there his hounds. Towards the centre of the
isle was formerly a small chapel, dedicated to St. Mary, supposed to have been founded
as a hermitage by some devout person, for the purpose of ofiering up masses for the souls
of mariners : the spot is now occupied by a few cottages and a small farm-house, called
" Chapel-House Farm."

The commanding height of Shooter's-hiU, in Kent, richly clad with foliage, and which
is 482 feet above the level of the sea, continues to bound a very limited horizon for a long
extension of the river, and is supposed to have received its appellation from having been
formerly chosen by archers, as a place of exercise. The hill is surmounted by a tower,
called Severndroog castle, erected in commemoration of a conquest of a fort of that name,
on the coast of Malabar, in 1755, as well as other victories obtained in the East- Indies, by
Sir William James. BlackwaU, which lies on the confines of Middlesex and Essex, and is
situated in a bay formed by the river, before it rounds into Woolwich reach, does not afibrd
any picturesque attractions, though endeared to gastronomists, as a spot famed for the pro-
vision of that much-esteemed luxury among connoisseurs in fish, called White Bait.
The vast docks of the East-India Company and the eastern entrance to the West- India
docks are also situated here, and, a little in advance, near the Trinity-buoy wharf. Bow-
creek, formed by the river Lea, unites itself with the Thames, dividing the two counties
of Middlesex and Essex. On the Kentish banks, the church of Charlton, with the
neighbouring scenery, forms a pleasing prospect. At the extremity of the reach is seen
Wooiwich, with its fine dock-yard, established by Henry VIII, and at the lower end oi

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THE THAMES. 77

the town is situated the royal arsenal, the grand national repository of every species of
military and naval ordnance and stores. Near the arsenal are moored the hulks, for the
reception of convicts. Part of the parish of Woolwich extends to the opposite bank,
and is included in the county of Kent, on which side of the river is the * Devil* s-house
being all that remains of a mansion, formerly belonging to the family of Deval', whose
name has suffered so unnatural a corruption from the seafaring characters by whom it is
seen. The Thames now forms a long reach, called Gallions, and, passing the mouth of the
river Roding, called Barking-creek, and then Dagenham, soon arrives at Erith. The dull
unvarying aspect of the Essex coast, which is only momentarily relieved by the herds of
cattle, sometimes seen pasturing on the marshy levels, forms a striking contrast with the
uplands of Plumstead, which rise from the Kentish meadows in various hills and wooded
undulations. The town of Erith derives its name from Errl-hithe, or old harbour, and lies
very prettily in a small bay, the ivy and moss-grown tower of the church creating a pictur-
esque object. On the brow of a finely- wooded hiU is seen the beautiful seat and groimds
of lord Say and Sele, called " Belvidere." About two miles in advance, on the opposite side
of the river, is Purfleet, formerly called Pourtefleet, containing large public magazines for
gunpowder. The chalk-quarries serve to relieve for a moment the flat iminteresting scenery
of this side of the Thames. Passing through Long-Reach, we have the Dartford marshes on
our right, through wliich the river Darent flows, called Dartmouth-creek, rendering its
waters to the parent stream. Approaching the delightful hamlet of Greenhithe, whose
chalk cliffs, as well as those at Northfleet, rise from 100 to 150 feet perpendicularly,
breaking the uniformity of the scenery, and convey the feeling of a partially romantic
character. The Thames, again winding, forms St. Clement's reach, and, leaving on the
left the village and church of West-Thurrock, we obtain a fine view of an elegant
mansion in Essex, with its embattlements and pleasure-grounds, called Belmont-castle, re-
moved from the water, on the summit of a gentle eminence. In advance is Grey's Thurrock,
where the river, bending to the right, fiows through the reach termed the South- Hope, which
bounds a marshy peninsula on the Kentish side, and soon washes the side of Northfleet,
deriving its name from a small ^ee^ or arm of the river, which flows from hence southwards,
towards Southfleet. The village is pleasantly situated on the margin of the river, and is
becoming a favorite summer retreat for the citizens of London, being about a mile distant
from Gravesend. The town of Gravesend is a place of considerable importance on the
Thames, being the first port on the river, and consequently immediately connected \vith its
navigation. The name is derived from Gerefa, signifying a ruler or portreve, termed in
German Greve; hence Gravesend indicates the limit or bound of a certain jurisdiction or
oflfice. The port of London terminating just below the town, an oflSce of customs
is estabhshed in it, and all homeward-bound vessels are obliged to lay to, until visited by
the proper authorities. The contiguity of Gravesend to the metropolis and the ready ac-
cess afforded by the numerous steam-boats daily running to and fro, togetlier with the new
and elegant buildings in the environs, particularly at the delightful village of Milton, for the
accommodation of visitors and those wishing a partially saline bath, have much improved the

78 THE THAMES.

town, and ranked it among the fashionable watering-places of the kingdom. The view of
the surrounding counties obtained from the Windmill-hill is rich, beautiful, and diversified, *
and the river, covered with vessels of various forms, and in as many directions, affords de-
tached groups of naval objects at once pleasing and picturesque. A new stone pier was
opened on the twenty-ninth of July, 1834, for the convenience of passengers, and will prove
a great accommodation to the town. A short distance beyond Gravesend is the entrance
to the Thames and Medway-canal. About three miles from the town, near the rural
village of Shome, at the foot of a sloping eminence, crowned with trees, called " the
Warren," is situated a mild chalybeate spring, reputed highly effective in the cure of
scorbutic and other diseases, but at present entirely neglected. The view from the height
is beautiful and extensive, and the spot possesses all the natural requisites for being ren-
dered a highly attractive and fashionable place of resort. Opposite Gravesend is Tilbxiry
fort, buUt by Henry VIII, to protect the upper part of the Thames, but was enlarged
and made a regular fortification by Charles II. Here was encamped the army of Eliza-
beth, in 1558, in order to oppose the anticipated landing of the troops of the Invincible
Armada. After passing East-Tilbury, with its church and tapering spire, the Essex shore
exhibits a succession of low grounds, until the river separates from it an island, containing
3,500 acres, anciently called Convennos, and by Ptolemy Counos, and still retains the ap-
pellation of Convey or Canvey island, skirting part of the Lower-Hope reach. The south-
em side of the Lower-Hope is bounded by the Gravesend and Milton marshes and the
parishes of Higham and Cliffe, together vdth the Isle of Grean or Grain. This island is
divided from the main land by a very narrow channel, called the Scray, which, in for-
mer years, was sufficiently wide to admit the passage of small vessels from the Medway to
the Thames, and was caUed Yenlet or Yenlade in the Hoo. As we enter Sea-Reach, the
last of those broad expanses of water for which the Thames is celebrated, Leigh church
and village appear, pleasantly situated on the Essex banks. Between Leigh and Southend
is placed the city stone ; the jurisdiction of the lord-mayor of London terminating at this
spot. A short distance in advance is Southend, which, previous to the modern attraction
of Gravesend, was much frequented in summer, as a bathing-place ; and the woody cha-
racter of the adjacent country, the vast breadth of the river, with its moving scenery
and the mouth of the Medway, form a bright and interesting break on the Kentish shore,
and create for the spot much picturesque beauty. A terrace, erected on some rising
ground, called New-Southend, has an elegant appearance from the water. Some distance
below this town the beacon, called the " Nore-Light," is placed, being an immense lamp,
fixed in the hulk of a Dutch-built vessel, moored nearly in the centre of the Nore, between
what is termed Shoebury Ness and the Isle of Sheppey, in order that vessels should know
the bearing of the different shoals, which render the navigation dangerous at the entrance
of the Thames. The breadth between the western extremity of the Isle of Grain and Shoe-
bury Ness may be denominated the mouth of the river, and is six miles in extent. At
this point the majestic Thames, having preserved that air of placid dignity and imposing
grandeur which distinguish so eminently this monarch of British rivers, blends its immense

H:^ ^-'m^%>'^.

THE MEDWAY. Tf

Tolume of waters with those of the Medway, losing designation and destination, is en-
gulphed in the mighty depths of the ocean, having flowed in an easterly course for a
space of two hundred and thirty miles, of which one hundred and eighty-eight are navi-
gable, and having expended the ebb and flood of a tide for seventy miles.

THE MEDWAY.

This river, though inferior to the mighty Thames in volume of water, extent of
navigation, and mercantile importance, is yet endued with its own peculiar and attrac-
tive beauties, which render it preeminent in point of picturesque and romantic scenery.
The sudden meandering of its stream, as it flows through the middle of the rich and fer-
tile county of Kent, is constantly presenting fresh and diversifled points of view ; the
luxuriance of the vales being reHeved by bold undulations and fertilised hiUs, delighting
the pictorial eye with the beautiful arrangements of the numerous landscapes, and the
richness of the soil illustrating the beau ideal of a land " flowing with milk and honey."
The river was denominated by the early Britons the Vaga, a name descriptive of its sinuous
wanderings. The Saxons annexed the additional syllable of med, signifying mid or middle,
denoting its course through the centre of the county, and hence, from Medvaga or Med-
wage, the present name has arisen.

1 The Medway is formed by the confluence of four streams ; two of which rise in Sussex,
one in Surrey, and the other in Kent. The principal source springs in the parishes of God-
stone and Home, near Bletchingly; and, having been joined by several rills in its course,
passes eastward into the county of Kent, a short distance above Eaton bridge. This vil-
lage, though small, is rural and prettily situated on the banks of the infant stream. In 1758
a slight shock of an earthquake was felt in this parish, and three years previously, on the same
day that the great earthquake occurred at Lisbon, the waters of a pond, covering about an
acre of ground, are related to have been considerably agitated. With trickUng current
the river pursues its devious course to the fine and venerable remains of Hever castle, which
is nearly perfect in its exterior form. It was erected in the reign of Edward III, by Wil-
liam de Hevre, and afterwards came into the possession of Sir Geoffrey Boleyn, the great
grandfather of Anne Boleyn, the ill-fated queen of Henry VIII, who resided here during
the halcyon days of her courtship. On the death of her father. Sir Thomas Boleyn, Earl
of Wiltshire and Ormond, Henry seized the estate, in right of his wife, and afterwards
granted it to his repudiated consort, Anne of Cleves, who here ended her days. The
stream, after meandering for some distance through fertile and varied scenery, passes near
Penshurst-place, the celebrated seat of the Sydneys. The mansion adjoining the village is
a large irregular pile of building, and exhibits a specimen of those castellated dwellings
which immediately succeeded the more gloomy residence of the 13th and ikh centuries.

80 . THE MEDWAY.

It afterwards came into the possession of the crown, and was granted by Edward VI fiff
Sir William Sydney, one of the heroes of Flodden field. Here the "Inconiparable" Sir
Philip Sydney was born, in 1 554, whose brilliant talents and extensive accquirements ob-
tained him universal admiration. Here also were bom Algernon Sydney and the lady
Dorothy, afterwards countess of Sunderland, the famed Sacharissa of the poet Waller. The
park includes 400 acres of ground, finely diversified by gentle eminences, lawns and woods •
the oak, beech and chesnut trees being of luxuriant growth. In the park stands the cele-
brated oak, said to have been planted at the birth of Sir Phihp Sydney, and is upwards of
22 feet in girth.] Below Penshurst, the stream is joined by one of the four branches, which
rise at Gravely in Sussex, and, after a sequestered and lonely course, proceeds by Cowden,
Groombridge and Ashurst, to the main stream, which, augmented by various smaller rivu-
lets, pursues its mazy course with accelerated current towards Tonbridge or Tunhridge. On
approaching this town, which contains 10,380 inhabitants, the river divides into several chan-
nels, the northermost of which becomes navigable and is again joined by the other divisions
about two miles below Tonbridge. The five streams which pass the town have each a bridge
of stone ; and hence, in all probabiHty, originated the name of Town of Bridges or Tonbridge.
The Medway was made navigable to this place by the provisions of an act of Parhament,
passed in 1740. The northern or principal stone bridge, which is neat and substantial,
was commenced in 1775. The extensive ruins of the castle, with its moss-grown walls
and ivy-mantled towers, appear above the bridge, in a very picturesque form. The castle
was erected by Richard Fitz-Gilbert, Earl of Clare, soon after the conquest, and enclosed
six acres of ground. Leaving Tonbridge, the streams having united, the Medway passes
tlurough Hartlake bridge to the village of Brantbridge. In this neighbourhood the scenery
is highly pastoral and diversified : the river, flowing amidst a rich line of meadow land,
famed for the breed of cattle, attains the ancient stone bridge of Twyford. The village,
from whence the bridge is named, is vsrritten in Domesday book Tuiferde, from the two
fords which formerly existed across the stream and the remaining principal branches of
the Medway, and which unite at the populous \'illage of Yalding with the main rivers.
One flows from Hockenbury-Panne, in Waterdown Forest, Sussex, and, passing Bayham
abbey and Lambenhurst, is increased by the Bewle and Theyse rivulets. The other, taking
its source at Goldwell, near great Chart, in Kent, receives several small contributory
streams, in its progress by Romeden, Smarden and Hedcorne, and unites with the wa-
ters of the Sussex branch above Hunton. Quitting Yalding, which has a population of 2,460,
the stream flowing within confined limits, and winding to the left, reaches the ruins of Net-
tlested, the ancient seat of the family of the Pimpes, who held the manor in the reign
of Edward I. The Medway now passes the village and church of Wateringbury. The
mansion, called the Place, is the property of the descendants of Sir Wm. Style. About
a mile and a half in advance, we approach Teston, with its picturesque bridge of stone,
consisting of seven arches, three of which are cycloidal, and the others gothic. The vil-
lage is situated in a beautiful and hightly cultivated district, gradually rising from the banks
of the i>ver, and, with the picturesque church and spire, have afforded the interesting sub-

■^■'-

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THE MEDWAY. 81

ject of the annexed engraving. Below the bridge, on a beautiful eminence, is seen Teston-
house, formerly called Barham Court, surrounded with delightful and varied scenery.
The approximating village of Barming, anciently called Barmelinge, " from its moist situ-
ation amidst many springs," lies prettily on the Nort em-bank of the stream. The soil in
the neighbourhood produces the Kentish ragstone, which is found extremely congenial
to the growth of hops, the plantations of which greatly add to the beauty of the country.
The parish is also much celebrated for its orchards of cherries and apples, and its growth
of filberts. Nearly opposite, on the other bank, is West-Farleigh ; the two villages being
divided by the river. Flowing through a small bridge, the stream winds through diversi-
fied and pleasing scenery, until it reaches East-Farleigh. The ancient Gothic bridge,
tufted with moss, and in parts shadowed with ivy, with the adjoining lock, and, on a
gentle eminence, the village church, combine in forming a picturesque effect, and which has
been attempted to be portrayed in the accompanying plate. The coimtry now assumes
the appearance of a richly cultivated garden, when, passing tne pleasant village of Tovil,
situated on some rising, ground and commanding a wide extent of scenery, the stream be-
comes compressed by the opposing banks, though it retains considerable depth of water,
until its course is impeded by Maidstone lock : previous, however, to its erection the cur-
rent was affected by the tide as high as Farleigh, and occasionally, under peculiar circum-
stances, has ascended the stream as far as St. Helen's, Barming ; now it only reaches Maid-
stone lock.

Shortly curving to the left, the Medway now pursues its course through the ancient
bridge of Maidstone. This town is supposed to be the Caer-Meguiad, or Megwad, men-
tioned by Nennius, and the Vagniaces of Antoninus. It occupies a sloping eminence on
the eastern bank of the river, and is deUghtfvdly situated^in the midst of a well-wooded
and finely cultivated covmtry, watered in every part by the river or the rill. The soil ad-
joining the town and its neighbourhood is well adapted to the growth of fruit and the cul-
ture of hops, the prosperity of the place being much indebted to this branch of agriculture.
Its central situation has rendered it well adapted for a coimty town, and for the purposes
of provincial meetings and public business. It is an ancient borough by prescription, re-
turning two members to parliament, and containing 15,387 inhabitants. The river Len
flows through the town into the Medway, of which it may be considered one of the
minor sources, rising at Ewel, adjoining Bigon-heath, in the western part of the parish of
Lenham, and in its course gliding by Leeds castle. The Medway, on quitting the bridge,
is for a time shaded by a range of trees ; and at the distance of about two miles the stream
flows by the venerable ruins of Allington castle, situated on the southern banks, which is
partly concealed from the water by the surrounding shrubs and trees. The remains, how-
ever, are extremely interesting, as dehneated in the annexed illustration. The castle is
stated to have been built by the earl of Warrenne after the conquest, on the site of one
erected in the Saxon times by the noble family of Columbarij, but which was razed by
the Danes.

After passing through Allington locks, with their picturesque waterfall, the stream
winds its mazy course tlxrough the ancient Gothic stone bridge of Aylesford. The sudden

82 THE MEDWAY.

rise of the ground on the eastern side of the village, with the church and its square em-
battled tower, situated on the summit, affords no small addition to the picturesque cha-
racter of the scenery. Aylesford seems perfectly sequestered in the midst of a primeval
district, into which one would hardly imagine the anxieties and turmoils of the world
could intrude. At a short distance to the left is the Priory, a seat of the marquis of
Aylesford, but now commonly called the Friars, and which enriches one of the most
beautiful spots on the river. The Medway soon makes a very sudden and bold meander,
flowing through banks thickly planted with forest-trees. At the extremity of the bend
is the hamlet of New-Hythe, where the river, having exhausted its expanse of water,
assumes the appearance of a stream, finding its course through a beautifully cultivated
garden. Burham church and village next attract our attention ; the high chalk and gra-
velly banks, forming the margin of the stream, create a pleasing foreground, backed by a
line of hills, running nearly parallel with the river ; the vicinity being famed for its
abundant pits of potters' clay. Leaving Snodland, situated on the opposite bank, the
glassy bosom of the stream soon reflects the ruined walls of Hailing- House, which, in the
reign of Henry II, was one of the four stately palaces of the bishops of Rochester, who,
in all probability, resided here before the conquest. The river, which is here expanded
into a considerable breadth, with increased current passes the ancient, but picturesque,
village of Woldham, and, winding in difierent curves, reaches the village of Cuxton,
formerly called Coclestane, on the left, and we soon obtain an imposing view of the ma-
jestic ruins of Rochester castle, its ancient Gothic bridge and venerable cathedral. On
the left is Temple-Farm, in the parish of Strood, where, in the reign of Henry II,
stood a mansion belonging to the Knights-Templars, and on the opposite bank is the
church of St. Margaret, in the parish of Rochester ; its ivy-clad tower and picturesque
situation forming an attractive object.

The origin of the name of Rochester does not appear to have been clearly defined.
A location was, very probably, established here as early as the year of Our Lord 43,
when Plautus first landed. The castle was built by the Romans, to guard this important
pass of the Medway, and was repaired by William the Conqueror„ The keep was erected
by Gundulf, bishop of Rochester, in the reign of William Rufus, and is still called
Gundulf's tower. It is constructed of rag-stone, and, exteriorly, is nearly perfect, being
the principal part of the castle now extant, and presenting one of the most interesting
and curious specimens of Norman military architecture in the kingdom. The See of
Rochester (founded in 600) is one of the most ancient in England. The church attached
to the priory of St. Andrew having become neglected and delapidated, bishop Gundulph
commenced the new cathedral, about the year 1077, although the dedication of the
whole structure did not take place until 1130. It now exhibits specimens of the ai'chi-
tecture of at least four distinct eras. The western entrance of this interesting pile arrests
the attention of every beholder by the magnificence of its design and the richness and
beauty of the decorations. The whole length of the cathedral, from east to west, is 306
feet, that of the nave and aisles 75, and the height of the great tower is 156 feet. The
bridge was erected in the reign of Richard II, about the year 1394, at the expense of Sir

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Full text of "Eighty picturesque views on the Thames and Medway, engraved on steel by the first artists"

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