REESE LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.
C/ass
EMIGRANTS' GUIDE:
A DESCRIPTION OF
WISCONSIN, ILLINOIS, AND IOWA;
WITH REMARKS ON
MINNESOTA, AND OTHER TERRITORIES.
BY DANIEL S. CUIITISS.
NEW YORK:
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON
86 CEDAR STREET.
1852.
fr
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1851, by
J. H. COLTON,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
District of New York.
STEREOTYPED A.ND PRINTED HY 1 UDNEY & HUSSELL, 79 JOHN-ST.
TO HENRY O'RIELLY, ESQ.:
Whose vast Enterprise has been eminently advantageous
to The West ; who extended a generous confidence to me
at an early age and when a stranger — Confidence, the no
blest principle in Human Nature, as Faith is the sublimest
in Christianity — and whose manly friendship I have sub
sequently enjoyed, this Book is cordially Dedicated as a
Token of Grateful Remembrance
By the
AUTHOR.
203733
CONTENTS,
PREFACE, 11.
INTRODUCTION ; Western Emigration, Difficulty of Early
Traveling, The Puritans, East and West, Rochester and
Chicago, compared, O'Rielly's Book, Harbor and River Con
vention, Routes from the Atlantic to the Lakes, 16.
TRIP UP THE LAKES: Dunkirk, Erie, Cleveland, Mon
roe, Toledo, Detroit, Fort Gratiot, Lake Huron, Mackinaw,
33 — Sunsets, Sports, Islands, Door County, Manitowoc, She-
boygan, 38 — Washington County, Ozaukee, Milwaukee,
Railroad, 39 — City and County, Plankroad, Real Estate, 41 —
Racine, Kenosha, 43 — Waukegan, 44.
CHICAGO : Canal, Railroad, Lumber Trade, 45— Scenery,
Soil, and Trade, 47 — Transportation, Commerce, Wholesale
Trade, 51 — Plankroads, Agricultural Papers, Aurora Bore-
alis, 53 — Traveling between Chicago and Detroit, Chicago
Harbor, 55 — Shipping, Indian Treaty, 50 — School Fund,
Houses, Colleges, 59 — Summit, Lyons, Calumet, etc., 60.
TRIP TO MINNESOTA: Canal, Illinois and Mississippi
Rivers, 62 — Towns and Lands along the Canal, 63 — Rock
Island and Chicago Railroad, 64 — Canal and Tolls, 65 — Cook,
Dupage, and Will Counties, 66 — Grundy and La Salle
VI CONTENTS.
Counties, 67 — Ottawa, Peru, and La Salle, 68 — Stage and
Railroad Route to the Illinois River, 71 — Fox River Coun
try, Prairies^ 72 — Western and Eastern River Countries
compared, Science in Farming, Flax and Hemp, 73 — Origin
of the Prairies, 74 — Illinois River Country, Distances, 75 —
Mississippi, St. Louis, Hannibal, Quincy, 76 — Adams Coun
ty, 78 — Warsaw, Churchville, Keokuk, 79 — Des Moines
River, Nauvoo, 80 — Burlington, Oquawka, Muscatine, 81 —
Wapello, Iowa City, Davenport, 82 — Sacs and Fox Indians,
Rock Island, 83 — Le Clare, Clinton County, 84 — Scenery at
Rock Island, 85 — Moline, Camden, Mississippi Bridge, 86 —
O'Rielly Telegraphs, 87 — Galena and Dubuque, 88 — Potosi,
Cassville, Land Monopoly, 89 — Peoria to Galena, 90 — Galena
to Prairie du Chien, 92— Platte Mounds, Belmonte, 93—
Prairie Fires, 95 — Plattewlle and Lancaster, 97 — Passage to
St. Anthony's, 98 — Winnebago Indians, Lake Pepin, 99 —
Indian Summer, 100 — Mississippi, Crapauds, 103 — Cross
Camp, Indian Encampments, 105 — Lake Pepin, Black Point,
107 — Maiden's Rock, St. Croix River, Indian Sickness,
108 — Great Medicine, St. Peter's River, and St. Anthony's
Falls, 111 — Minnesota, Military Post, and Fort Snelling,
112 — ST. PAULS, the Territorial Capital, and other Towns,
114 — Dimensions of the Falls, Legendary, 115 — St. Croix,
Lake, River, and Towns, 117 — Legends of Maiden Rock,
Lake Pepin, 118— Black Hawk, Battle at Bad Ax, 120—
Falling Stars, 121 — Minnesota, Selkirk Settlements, 123 —
Carver Tract, St. Pauls, Telegraph, 126 — Caves, Snakes,
etc., 127.
WISCONSIN: Boundaries, History, etc., 129— Ancient
Mounds, 132 — Western Advantages, Money Loans, Educa
tion, Gardens of the West, 139 — Kossuth, Ujhazy, Govern
ment Lands, Free Settlements, 141 — Growth and Limits of
Wisconsin, 142 — Brothertown and Oneida Indian Settle-
CONTENTS. Vll
ments, 144 — Face of the Country, 145 — Rivers and Mounds,
146 — Counties, Towns, Rivers, 148 — Wisconsin River, 150 —
Grant County, 151 — Earl Murray, Platte Mounds, 152 —
General Smith, 153 — Iowa County, Dane County, 154 — La
borers in Cities, Duty of Government, 155 — Rivers, Lakes,
and Scenery, 159 — Farwell's Mills, Land Monopoly, 161 —
MADISON, the State Capital, 162 — Columbia County, Fort
Winnebago, 164 — Marquette County, 165 — Fon du Lac
County, 166 — Tacheda, Ceresco, 167 — Winnebago County,
168 — Calumet County, Dodge County, 16j) — Jefferson
County, Watertown, 171 — Waukesha County, Lakes, 172 —
Walworth County, Elkhorn, 174 — Rock County, Janesville,
Beloit, Green County, 176 — Lafayette County, Brown
County, 177 — Nenah and Wisconsin rivers, 179 — Green
Bay and Depere, 180 — Bad Ax County, La Crosse County,
182— Chippewa, St. Croix, and La Pointe, 183— Marathon
and other new Counties, 184 — Recapitulation, 185.
IOWA : Location, Boundary, Climate, 186 — IOWA CITY, the
State Capital, 189 — Des Moines River Country, Van Buren,
Wapello, and Mahaska Counties, 190 — Ottumwa, Oskaloosa,
Pella, Polk, Dallas, Lucas, Buchanan, Delaware, Delhi, 191 —
Clayton, Jackson, Jones, Cedar, Iowa, 194 — Jasper, Jeffer
son, Clinton, Henry, Washington, ]95 — Mount Pleasant,
Rivers, Recapitulation, 196 — Minerals, Provisions, Railroads,
197 — Council Bluffs, Roads, Doctor Clark, Upper Counties,
198.
ILLINOIS : Improvements, History, Convention, First
White Settlements, 199 — Indian Treaties, Boundaries, Name
of State, Population, 200 — Character of Western People,
Health of Country, Flower Gardens, etc., 204 — Horseback
Riding — Face of the Country, Grand Prairie, Internal Im
provements, 210 — Various Railroads, 212 to 216 — Hunting
Ill CONTENTS.
and Fishing, 217 — Rock River Country, 210— Sangamon
River Country, Illinois Beef, 221 — SPRINGFIELD, the State
Capital, 222 — Okau River Country, Wire Fences, 224 —
Military Bounty Tract, 225 — Bottom Lands, the American
Bottom, 226 — Vegetation and Health, Timbered Land, 227 —
Rivers, 230 — Cairo, Lead, Captain Gear, 233 — Minerals,
236 — Productions of the Soil, 238 — Climate, Indian Summer,
Frosts, 240 — Counties and Towns, 243 — Adams, Bond, Boone,
Belvidere, Big Thunder, Mrs. Towner, 244 — Bureau, Cass,
Champaign, Cook, 245 — Cumberland, Clark, Clay, Clinton,
Coles, 247 — Christian, Crawford, Carroll, Edgar, Edwards,
248— Effingham, De Kalb, Dupage, Do Witt, Fayetto,
249— Franklin, Fulton, Gallatin, Salt Works, 250— Greene,
Grundy, Hamilton, Hancock, Henry, Henderson, Hardy,
Rockincave, 252 — Robbers' Retreat, Iroquois, Jackson,
Fountain Bluff, 253 — Jackson, Jefferson, Jo Daviess, Will
iam Hempstead, Esq., 255 — Minerals, Spars, 256 — John
son, Jersey, Kane, Knox, Kendall, La Salle, 257 — Starved
Rock, Lovers' Leap, Lawrence, Indian Creek Massacre,
258— Buffalo Rock, Livingston, 262— Lake, Lee, Shab-
bena's Grove, 263 — Logan, Marshall, Mason, Massac, Me-
nard, 264 — Macoupin, Marion, Me Donough, Me Henry,
265 — Me Lean, Mercer, Monroe, Macon, 266 — Madison,
Monk Hill, 267 — Alton, Moultrie, Montgomery, Morgan,
Railroad, 268 — Illinois College, Ogle, Oregon City, 269 —
Peoria, Perry, Pyatt, Pike, 270— Pope, Pulaski, Putnam,
Hennepin, -272 — Randolph, Fort Chartres, French Towns,
273 — Rock Island, Richland, Saline, Sangamon, Springfield,
275— Scott, Schuyler, Shelby, Stark, St. Clair, 276— St.
Clair Coal Company, Stephenson, 278 — Tazewell, Union,
Vermillion, 279— Wabash, Warren, Washington, 280—
Wayne, White, Whitesides, Will, 281— Winnebago, Hymn
from the Prairies, J. Clement, 282— Rockford, Williamson,
CONTENTS. IX
Woodford, 283— Recapitulation ; The North and South, a
Symbolic Picture, Thunder Storm, 284.
THE HIGHER ASPECTS OF THE WEST : John E.
Wheeler, Dr. Bushnell, 298— Names of the States, 302 —
Routes, etc., 303.
THOMPSON'S LETTERS : Travels down the Illinois River,
up the Mississippi, and across the State of Wisconsin to
Lake Michigan, 306 to 342.
NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS: In Wisconsin, Il
linois, and Iowa, their Names, Character, and where Pub
lished, 343 to 348.
CONCLUSION : Governor Doty's Letter, 349 to 351.
OF THE
UNIVERSITY
PREFACE,
MOST persons who design emigrating to THE WEST — whether
Americans or Foreigners — have but a limited, and often incorrect,
knowledge of that region — its lands, resources, facilities, and
business — of the distinguishing features of different sections ;
hence, they cannot easily determine which way to direct their
course ; so that they are anxious to make inquiries, and elicit
facts, from those who are acquainted with that country ; which, at
most, is a limited means of information. It would be convenient
and advantageous to emigrants, to have, before starting, some
general and reliable statements, respecting the distinct character
istics of the various Western States, or of the different portions of
each of those states ; it might save them much travel arid expense.
There have been published several very useful and interesting
Guides and Gazetteers of the West— for times past — but tiie
transformations, the improvements, are so rapid and extensive,
that, those books give only slight and imperfect knowledge of that
progressive region, as the present finds it. So quick and numer
ous are the changes in the West, that the traveler of the spring,
returning by the same route in autumn, scarcely knows his
whereabouts ; and the pioneer who makes a summer's visit to his
old home-place, is equally surprised, on his return, at the changes
which have taken place, the advancement made there, and he
hardly recognizes the locality of his new home, after the short
absence of one season. Immigrants have " located," new shantees
have been stuck up, and they even succeeded by new houses, new
fences have been made, new roads laid, and new ditches dug.
The enchanting power of industry, in a genial clime, on a fertile
soil, has done this ; but it is not illusory enchantment.
Thus, the descriptive book of the earlier days, is but a dim
volume now ; and another is wanted nearly as much as if the first
were not written.
Xll PREFACE.
To try to supply this want, to that enterprising class, is the ob
ject of the writer in preparing this little volume — in a plain and
faithful narrative of facts, in regard to appearances, prospects,
and statistics, of the Great West.
While traveling several years, on business connected with news
papers and telegraph lines, through the states of WISCONSIN, IL
LINOIS, and IOWA, spending some time in nearly all of the princi
pal towns and cities, the writer made examinations of the soil, and
collected facts of business and progress, which enable him to give
generally correct and familiar descriptions of the great and vari
ous resources of those states — their lands, mines, improvements,
conveyances, markets, etc., the pecxiliarities of the different tracts
of land— from personal inspection ; and all contrasted with the
facts and condition a few years previous.
Some general remarks are also given upon the character and
prospects of Minnesota, though but briefly, as the writer is less
acquainted with that territory than with the three states named.
It is not pretended, in this little Emigrant Manual, to furnish
extended and detailed accounts of the discovery and early trials
and settlement of the AVest, as that is more the sphere of the his
torian, than of the traveling delineator, whose aim is to portray
present scenes and aspects, yet some brief items of history are
given.
Still, the more fully and forcibly to convey some adequate
knowledge of the rich resources and proud progress of the New
Country, the writings of several interesting Tourists, in 1833,
1837, and 1840, have been freely examined, and extended ex
tracts copied from them, that the present may be more clearly
appreciated, as viewed in contrast with the past.
The extensive system of Railroads and other Improvements
which the Western States have recently projected — and are en
gaged in, soon to be completed — have excited at the East a lively
and increased interest in the destiny of the New States, eliciting
more earnest attention to them, and inducing more numerous
emigration from among the wealthy and business classes of the
older states.
Besides, millions of the surplus means of Eastern capitalists
have, within a short period, been invested in the Internal Improve
ments of the New states, which also tends to enlist curiosity and
attention toward the West, creating greater earnestness for
knowledge in regard to that region, as to its operations and
natural resources.
PREFACE. Xlll
It is hoped and intended that this work shall, to some satisfac
tory degree, gratify that desire, and thus secure for it a ready
sale among those interested.
Those great and popular national enterprises — a line of Tele
graph, with stockades of armed and mounted mail-carriers, and a
Railroad to the Pacific — are becoming earnestly-talked-of projects,
demanding the special attention of the General Government, hav
ing enlisted the lively exertions of many Senators and Representa
tives in Congress.
Under these circumstances, the great Mississippi Valley country
becomes invested with a more vast importance than any other
equal section of our nation, and must be so regarded by the people
generally ; hence, every source of information in regard to it will
be useful and sought after by the whole community, and even by
large capitalists beyond the Atlantic.
Most of my facts and descriptions are given from personal ob
servation and inspection ; but where not, the best authorities
have been consulted, such as accredited Gazetteers, Books of
Travel, Surveyors' Reports, Correspondence, Colton's late maps,
and others ; so that it is believed the statements are reliable, at
least in all essential matters.
It is believed, too, that the information contained in this boob-
is made so plain, complete, and explicit, that it may be servicea
ble to Emigrants and Emigration Companies in Europe ; so as to
enable them to set out for the new lands in America more intelli
gently than they otherwise could do.
As matter which will be interesting to readers generally, for
the facts which they contain, and for the graphic descriptions
which they present, of some features and locations in the West, I
have inserted several letters written by Rev. J. P. THOMPSON, of
New York, who made a tour through some of the Western States,
during the past summer, which may be relied upon. Of the ne
cessity of reliable portraitures and statistics of the West, Mr.
Thompson says :
*' One of the most necessary accouterments for a journey West
ward is a good set of maps and guide-books. These enable you to
keep your whereabouts while shifting from place to place. I have
found Dinsmore's Railway Guide for the United States entirely
reliable, so far as railroads are concerned ; but in a journey of
thousands of miles in a new country this of course answers only
for part of the way. The Western Tourist and Emigrant's Guide,
by J. H. COL.TON, together with his new series of pocket msaps of
XIV PREFACE.
the Western States, has been of much service to me in fixing lo
calities."
" The Tourist, though published last year and therefore some
what imperfect as regards the newer routes and also as to statis
tics of population — being based upon the census of 1840 — never
theless contains much information important to the traveler, and
expressed in a clear and concise manner. Its tabular view of
distances on the main routes of travel is especially valuable."
By the many questions which have been addressed to him, to
gether with the requests of many good friends, he is induced to
hurry out this work at this time ; as a guide to the emigrant west
ward, whether farmer, mechanic, merchant, or professional man.
It is also believed that such a book would oftentimes be an ad
vantage and convenience to merchants and other business men in the
Atlantic cities, as a matter of reference, respecting the business
and prospects of Western towns ; as much care is taken that the
statement of facts shall be correct.
Our GREAT WEST is a fertile, healthy, and beautiful country,
whose bountiful products reward toil and enterprise more liberally
than any other part of the world ; and already begins to number
its millions of industrious and intelligent population, with millions
more turning their thoughts and faces thitherward.
The schemes of Internal Improvements there are liberal and ex
tensive; and many routes, in various sections, are being prose
cuted with great activity and progress ; being works of such pal
pable utility as to have secured large and sufficient amounts of the
surplus capital of the Eastern States and England, for their con
struction, without embarrassing the New States with onerous debts.
Our Canals are dug and doing a lai'ge business ; portions of our
Railroads are built and in operation ; and the whole are under
safe and speedy advance toward completion ; so we have no grounds
to fear the suspensions and confusions which took place a few years
ago — for want of funds to proceed with ; they are provided for
from the rich coffers of the millionaires in the older settled coun
tries. So that there never was a more auspicious season for pur
chasing and settling in the West, than the present ; and if this
little volume shall prove beneficial to any — cither those who wish
to buy, or those who want to sell — my efforts will not have been
in vain, in this undertaking.
The writer's home is in The West, a country with which he has
been more and more pleased, as he became better acquainted with
it; and to all for whose happiness he feels interested, he could
PREFACE. XV
scarcely give them more kindly counsel, than to advise them fairly
to consider the claims and prospects of tho West, then remove
there and enjoy them.
The work will be accompanied by a superb Map of the three
states, Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, and the territory of Minnesota,
prepared in accordance with the latest authorities.
D. S. C.
CHICAGO, November, 1851.
INTRODUCTION.
FOR many years, particularly after the late war with Great
Britain (1812-15), emigration has been considerable from the older
to the New States ; and until recently, much the larger portion of
that emigration settled in Ohio, Michigan and Indiana ; not many
venturing beyond the Great Lakes ; the States and Territories in
that region, along the large rivers, were slowly but steadily, in
early times, receiving settlers from some of the Southern States,
which for many years constituted the largest portion of their ac
cessions of population.
But now, the case is different : WISCONSIN, ILLINOIS, and IOWA,
are receiving a large majority of the throngs of industrious and
enterprising people that are seeking New Homes in the New Coun
try ; while the Territory of Minnesota, a rising star in the north,
is also receiving considerable acquisitions to her population, by
the flood of immigration.
Perhaps, right here, a few passing remarks will not be out of
place, explanatory of the words so much in use, now-a-days, viz:
migrate, emigrant, immigration. To migrate or migrating, I un
derstand to mean, simply, to change location periodically or tem
porarily ; as, in the hot seasons Southerners come north to spend
the summer, and Northerners go south to pass the cold season, both
designing soon to return ; but not locating or settling permanently
in a new place. Emigrating is leaving a country ; and immigrat
ing is coming into a country ; as an Englishman or Irishman is an
emigrant with respect to his own country upon leaving it ; and,
coming into this country, he is an immigrant with respect to it.
This definition may serve, in some degree, to prevent that con
founding of these terms, so common with many.
Texas, Oregon, California, Deseret, Nabraska, and all of the
really " Far West," attract a share of the swarms of flying popu
lation to their borders ; but it consists more of adventurers than
XV111 INTRODUCTION.
of such as are seeking permanent homes for steady business, though
not wholly so.
Of these latter it is not my intention to speak further; Illinois,
Wisconsin, and Iowa being the region with which the writer is
more conversant, and to which it is designed especially to devote
these pages.
It is well known to most of the country, east and west, that the
snags, bars, sawyers, and other obstructions in the large rivers ;
and rocks, reefs, lack of harbors, light-houses, dredge-work, etc.,
along the great lakes, had become crying and disastrous evils,
causing innumerable frightful and destructive calamities, to both
persons and shipping, navigating these waters. And good men be
gan to realize seriously that some efficient measures must be speed
ily adopted by the nation and government for safety and relief.
Accordingly, in the years 1846 and 1847, a movement was
Btarted for bringing together a large Mass Meeting of the nation,
at some point, to deliberate upon some measures, and disseminate
intelligence in regard to these affairs, which resulted in the assem
bling c?f an immense National Convention at CHICAGO, Illinois,
in the first week of July, 1847 ; the business of which was to col
lect and present facts and arguments, and prepare matter and
petitions for Congress ; and otherwise to procure the speedy im
provements required along these important waters to give greater
safety and facilities to the extensive commerce that floated upon
them.
That call was triumphantly responded to in one of the most
numerous, intelligent, and enthusiastic gatherings that ever con
vened in the West, or any part of our country, popularly known
as the great Harbor and River Convention; where were met
many of the most profound statesmen and eloquent orators of our
nation.
That convention is an important era in the destiny of the West ;
an event beneficial both for the general earnest interest which it
excited, and the arguments that it promulgated in favor of a
liberal policy of Improvements by the Government, and for bring
ing together thousands of enterprising witnesses, from the East
and South, to behold the fresh and blooming WEST, to examine its
resources — persons who, but for this occasion, would scarcely
have ventured to its borders, where they might admiringly look
upon its rich prospects and boundless beauty. The writer, then
for the first time visited the states of Wisconsin and Illinois ; and
notwithstanding all that he had learned of this fine country, from
INTRODUCTION. XIX
enthusiastic travelers, he felt really that the half had not been
told him. And he has since met many now residents in those
states, who, like himself, first came here as delegates to the Har
bor and River Convention, and upon seeing, at once resolved to
locate permanently. And in Iowa, too, many have settled in the
same manner.
To adventurers in different departments of business, it presents
advantageous openings ; to the rich capitalist, secure and profita
ble sources of investment ; to the poor, easy opportunities of pro
curing pleasant and independent homes, with comfortable compe
tence ; and to all industrious, honest classes, a clear field and a
fair strife ; and in very few instances have those who were even
moderately prudent and industrious, been disappointed in accom
plishing their aims and expectations, or to do much better than
they would have done, with the same means and effort, at the
place from which they moved.
Hence, those who originated and carried out the scheme of the
great Harbor and River Convention have done good service to the
country, which will long be joyfully remembered, as well by the
early pioneer as the more recent settlers.
In a communication to the J\T. Y. Tribune, HORACE GREELEY,
after speaking of the crowded state of the hotels on this occasion
at Chicago, says :
" But the citizens threw open their dwellings, welcoming stran
gers in thousands to their cordial and bounteous hospitality."
" The people of Chicago have earned a noble reputation for hospi
tality and public spirit." " I never witnessed any thing so superb
as the appearance of their fire companies, with their engines drawn
by led horses, tastefully caparisoned. Our New York firemen
must try again ; they have certainly been outdone."
On the close of the Convention he thus writes :
" Thus has met, deliberated, harmonized, acted, and separted,
one of the most important and interesting conventions ever held
in this or any country. It was truly characterized as a Congress
of Freemen, destitute, indeed, of pay and mileage, but in all else
inferior to no deliberative body which has assembled in twenty
years. Can we doubt that its effects will be most beneficial and
enduring ?"
In calculating the growth of New York and Chicago, he writes,
July 19, 1847:
" Rapid as the growth of Chicago has been, large as it now is,
whoever proceeds westward and southward across the prairies, and
XX INTRODUCTION.
notes the unequaled capacities of the soil, its universal fertility,
its susceptibility of easy culture, and the rapidity of its transform
ation, from a waste to a garden, can hardly doubt that New
York in 1800 will be surpassed in business and population by Chi
cago of 1900. There is not a century's difference betAveen the two
in aught but origin. The spacious Illinois Canal will soon add
immensely to the trade of this Northern Emporium ; but a railroad
to Galena must soon follow, and will prove even more beneficial
and remunerating."
The Canal is in full operation, and also between fifty and sixty
miles of the Galena Railroad.
From this period, particularly, then, is to be dated the commence
ment of that rush of immigration which has so rapidly peopled the
states west of the Lakes ; and which still continues, and long must
continue, to pour a tide of population into that vigorous, progressing
region. For the convenience of such, is this little book thrown out
upon the public for its approbation ; and while the writer is well ac
quainted and well satisfied with the West, he confidently recommends
all who are not satisfied with their situation in the Old States, to
remove and settle in the New Ones ; where every thing is fresh and
improving, not sinking under moss-covered dilapidation, but where
the very appearances of all around are luxuriant and beautiful,
affording new hopes, new energy, and new successes.
Here are peculiarly promising inducements to thousands of those
ingenious, energetic, and laborious young mechanics, who over-
throng Eastern cities, to drive their trades, or engnge in farming,
or both, as may best suit their inclinations and circumstances.
Thus, all will be benefited — those who go, by finding new and en
larged fields for operation, and those who stay, by having steady
work and less competition.
New towns are springing up on every hand, and rapidly grow
ing ; farmers are numerously settling down in snug and sociable
neighborhoods ; and they must have various kinds of mechanic
work, for which they will make sure pay at fair prices. Then in
the young villages printers are wanted, with their world-moving
implements — Press and Types — to bring them the news and adver
tise their operations. Then let a portion of you, in the several
branches, "pack your kits," and with resolute hearts and active
hands, remove to the large and new scenes of enterprise, and be
sure success and happiness will reward.your efforts.
Even though you are mechanics, it is well to buy a small farm,
as soon as you conveniently can, that you may have a sure and in-
INTRODUCTION. XXI
dependent footing on terra firma ; which will afford you a profitable
opportunity to devote your labor , should you not be fully employ
ed all the time in your trade. In this way the toiler may receive
a just share of the products and profits of his labor ; and capital
will not swallow up the " lion's half," as is too often the case in
large cities and densely populated districts, where most of the
property is owned by a few, and the many labor for them.
Capital and labor should be real friends, and each receive its
just share of honors and profits and rights ; they are natural
brothers, designed to be of eminent service to each other, and
should exist and strive together, hand in hand — then both will be
safer, happier, and nobler.
Much more than formerly, the great resources of the West, its
rapid increase in population, wealth, and political influence, have
now become subjects of lively interest and daily discussion,
throughout the country ; and the Great West like brilliant visit
ors in the rich boudoirs of the fashionable and elegant, is now the
general object of remark and admiration. Its location, as will
be seen by reference to the map of the United States, asserts its
important position, and indicates with clear certainty, that the
voting majorities, and the direction of our government, will soon
be with the West ; the " Old Thirteen" possessing only about one
fifth the area of territory that the New States and Territories
embrace.
In this connection, the following remarks of Judge DOUGLAS,
in his address before the late Agricultural Fair at Rochester,
N. Y., are appropriate :
" Those regions are particularly adapted to grazing. They are
for the most part elevated, dry, and healthy, abounding in rich
grasses and pure water. The extent of country to which I refer,
embraces an era more than twice that of the original thirteen
States of the Union, and is destined to be occupied by an intel
ligent, industrious, and energetic race of men, not inferior in any
respect to those who inhabit the old states. Nature has designed
it for the habitation of an agricultural people."
" The farms of Western New York demanded the construction
of the Erie Canal, and the farmers of the Western States now call
for its enlargement. As the Western States and Territories be
come settled, and agricultural products accumulate, new railroads
and canals become necessary to furnish means of transportation
to the seaboard. The West is desirgus of securing every avenue
to the sea. It requires the navigation of the Mississippi and of
XX11 INTRODUCTION.
the St. Lawrence, the canals of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio,
Indiana, and Illinois, and all the railroads now constructed or in
process of construction, from the sea-coast to the Mississippi valley.
And all these facilities will yet prove insufficient to form adequate
outlets for the constantly accumulating products of the Western
farmers. New lines of communication will be called into exist
ence, and it is doubtful whether the capital and enterprise of the
country will keep pace with the increased demands for internal
improvements."
From New York and other Atlantic cities, as well as the interior
country, there are numerous quick and cheap lines of travel and
transportation westward ; and astonishingly so, when viewed in
comparison with the difficulties that had to be encountered by the
natives of New England when they early began to settle portions
of New York and Ohio.
In those early days, to undertake such an enterprise was, in
fact, taking their lives in their-, hands, as it were, to part with
friends at the dear old homes, with blessings and sadness, in trem
bling apprehension whether they should ever again meet in time —
to set off on the long and perilous journey, to Central or Western
New York, in quest of new homes and fortunes ; considered then
a brave, adventurous undertaking; and by the more staid and
cautious ones, it was pronounced a fool-hardy project ; a tour,
which at that period did, indeed, require more time, hardships,
and deprivation, than is now suffered in a trip to the Missouri
river.
Some, even, with extra undaunted enterprise, ventured far
away to Ohio, Michigan, and Indiana, then equal to a trip now to
Oregon or California, and was entered upon with as much deliber
ate preparations as are the long journeys at the present time to
the Pacific.
Those expeditions were performed at the slow, tedious movements
of pack-horses and tardy team- wagons, through Indian trails, or
half-cut roads. Even migration from Eastern to Western New
York, at that period, was considered by many, as a wild and
doubtful undertaking.
Upon the completion of the Hudson River Railroad, from New
York to Albany, in the first week of October, 1851, the JVew York
Daily Times publishes the following bit of steamboat history,
which is not inappropriate here, and will be interesting to many :
" The opening of the Hudson River Railroad, and the transit
from New York to Albany in the short space of four hours, pre-
INTRODUCTION.
XX111
sent a new era in the annals of travel. The steamboats have
reigned supreme over the noble waters of the Hudson for forty-
. four years. It was on September 28, 1807, that FULTON'S boat
first undertook the arduous task of statedly ascending the river to
the capital, for the transmission of passengers. The following ad
vertisement was discovered yesterday in a stray copy of ' The
American Citizen' a weekly paper published in this city, and
dated October 5, 1807. The coincidence of the times and seasons
for the commencement of steam navigation and of steam travel by
rail on the river is striking. And the contrast of the time and
fare table with that now used on the railroad is quite as remark
able :
" ' The Steamboat. — Being thoroughly repaired and arranged for
passengers, with a private dressing-room for ladies, it is intended
to run her as a packet between New York and Albany, for the re
mainder of the season. She will leave New York exactly at 9
o'clock in the morning of the following days, and always perform
her voyage in from 30 to 36 hours.
Monday - -
Friday - - -
Wednesday -
Sep. 28
Oct. 2
Oct. 7
Monday Oct. 12
Friday Oct. 16
The charge to each passenger is as follows :
DOLLAKS. TIME.
To Newburgh - - - - • $3 - - - - 14 hours.
To Poughkeepsie 4 ----17 hours.
To Esopus 41 .... 20 hours.
To Hudson 5 .... 30 hours.
To Albany 7 .... 36 hours.
For places apply to Mr. VANDERVOORT, No. 48 Cortland-
street, at the corner of Greenwich-street.'
" It was then the steamboat. No other floated on the waters of
the world ; and profoundly did the good folk admire at the courage
of those who ventured to trust themselves to the perilous enterprise.
Think of the prodigious advance upon previous modes of convey
ance, when the trip from one town to the other was actually ac
complished in ' 30 to 36 hours,' instead of four or five days, as the
old lumbering stage-coach or tub-like sloop was wont to have it.
There were who had great faith in the invention, and foresaw
dimly its grand results. Witness the following communication,
which appeared in The Evening Post of October 4, 1807 :
" * Among thousands who viewed the scene, permit a spectator
to express his gratification at the sight this morning of the steam-
XXIV INTRODUCTION.
boat proceeding on her trip to Albany on a wind and swell of tide
which appeared to bid defiance to every attempt to perform the
voyage. The steamboat appeared to glide as easy and rapidly as
though it were calm, and the machinery was not in the least im
peded by the waves of the Hudson, the wheels moving with their
usual velocity and effect.
" ' The experiment of this day removes every doubt hitherto
entertained of the practicability of the steamboat being able to
woYk in rough weather. Without being over-sanguine, we may
safely assert that the principles of this important discovery will
be applied to the improvement of packets and passage-boats, which
for certainty, safety, expedition, and accommodation, will far sur
pass any thing hitherto attempted. The invention is highly hon
orable to Mr. Fulton, and reflects infinite credit on the genius of
our country. NEW YORK.'
" Time has justified the vision of this seer, and gone infinitely
further than the promise. Could the veil of the 'to come' have
been lifted before the eyes of the prophet, and the log-book of the
Baltic, or the time-table of a railway train been presented to him,
how inconceivable must have been his astonishment. How short
the time it takes now-a-days to work wonders !"
But the original stock, from which sprang these various adven
turers, was of the right stamp : The PURITAN was that noble
tree, hardy and vigorous, which had thus spread, and still is
spreading, its roots and branches far and wide; knowing no nar
rower bounds to their achievements than, that the project is RIGHT
and DESIRABLE; this fairly settled, it must be accomplished;
danger, obstacles, privations, enter not into the account, until the
enterprise is commenced ; and then only to calculate how they
may be best removed or surmounted. This was the original Pu
ritan in his transit and settlement to this continent, and after
ward to many states of the Union. And in those original archi
tects of this great nation, whom the " May Flower" bore to Ply
mouth Rock, we have an example of glorious daring and marvel
ous accomplishment — in principle and project — surpassing any
the world ever saw, or soon again will witness — worthy fathers
of an enterprising progeny who have commenced peopling the
West.
" Know ye the land where a royal oppressor
Bade the burghers and husbandmen bow to his will ;
But they fought the good fight, under God, the Redressor,
And the heart of Humanity beats to it still I
INTRODUCTION. XXV
Ww-
Where lakes, plains, and mountains, inspiring or solemn,
Keep their tales of that strife, and its monuments be
The Statue, the Tablet, the Hall, and the Column,
But, best and most lasting, the souls of the free !"— WHITTIER.
After the Erie Canal was built — the glorious father of transit
improvements in our country — the great financier that has paid
and made the internal improvements of the Empire State — a differ
ent state of things exists ; by even that line alone — connecting the
Hudson, the Ocean, with the Lakes, and before the advent of rail
roads — transportation of persons and property was comparatively
easy, cheap, and quick; the speed and cheapness with which flour,
pork, and other articles were carried from Buffalo and Rochester
to Albany and New York, and merchandize brought back, were
matter of delighted marvel to thousands, even those who had been
most sanguinely anticipating the completion and operations of that
extraordinary work — an artificial water-passage, three hundred
and sixty miles, from Ocean to Lake !
And well may the people of the Empire State, of the Western
States, feel lively respect for the great minds who projected and
stuck by it to the day of its completion. They are held in honor
as public benefactors, not only for its beneficial effects immediately
on the line and in the state, but for the general spirit of enter
prise-, and far-reaching confidence in magnificent improvements
which it has excited and fostered ; this is the great benefit of the
construction of the Erie Canal — the will and confidence which it
has inspired throughout tlie nation in such enterprises.
Soon, however, the universal Yankee nation began to feel that
the five-mile-an-hour gait of canal was too slow, they should not
be able to get on in the world at such a pace ; they must be shot
ahead with steam ; they must have Railroads.
And Railroads we have ; the ears are found dashing and smoking
through the country in every direction ; so that we now have rail
road, steamboat, and canal packets between the Atlantic and
Great Lakes. Emigrants and travelers will make their own choice
among these several conveyances from the Eastern cities to Dun
kirk and Buffalo ; where again they can take safe and pleasant
boats for the Western States.
There is steamboat communication all of the way, and railroad
part of it, from Lake Erie to Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, and Minne
sota. Passenger and freight carriage is done very cheap and with
very little delay ; affording speedy returns and receipts for the
sale of their produce.
3
XXVI INTRODUCTION.
And tliis fact shows that the rich, fertile lands of the West, are
nearly if not quite as valuable, in truth, as those east of the
Lakes — the present facilities for transport and conveyance to the
seaboard markets being so favorable that the Western farmer will
realize about the same profit, one year with another, from his land
per acre, as is obtained at the East ; even estimating the lands of
both regions at the same price ; but when we consider that the
price of the lands East is five, ten, or fifteen times higher than at
the West, the ratio of profits is far greater in the New States ; be
cause there, the same amount of gam is derived from much less
capital. This consideration is worth looking at a moment.
Similar was the effect produced on the relative value of lands
in Eastern and Western New York, by the opening of transporta
tion through the Erie Canal ; those West being of comparatively
small value until the market facilities were opened ; but since that
time, they have risen to nearly or quite equal price, acre for acre ;
those on the Genesee and Tonawanda, with those on the Hudson
and Mohawk rivers.
To give a more distinct idea of the growth of Western New
York, and the favorable effects of increased market facilities, inci
dent upon great internal improvements, I copy some brief extracts
from a valuable work, entitled " Rochester, and Western New
York" — highly useful as a book of reference — published in 1838,
by HENRY O'RIELLY, Esq. ; than whom, no one could well be
found better qualified for the task; who, to a largely observing
and enterprising mind, added long familiar acquaintance with the
locations of which he wrote. Mr. O'Rielly became a resident of
Rochester when it was but an embryo village — he early commenced
the publication of a weekly newspaper there; and soon after
started, in that place, the first daily paper printed west of the
Hudson river. He continued in the editorial chair, at that city,
some eighteen or twenty years ; and held, at different times, im
portant city offices, and several appointments under the General
Government. He was also among the first to suggest and ablest
to advocate several important measures of state policy; as the
enlargement of the Erie Canal ; the formation of the new Consti
tution ; and the construction of railroads and telegraphs ; while
of the latter, his enterprise has e -.tended lines through the AVest-
ern and Southern States, far more extensively than has been done
by any other person. In his book, Mr. O'Rielly says :
" The suddenness of its rise, the energy of its population, the
excellence of its institutions, the whole character of its prosperity,
INTRODUCTION. XXV11
render ROCHESTER prominent among the cities that have recently
sprung into existence throughout a land notable for extraordinary
intellectual and physical advancement."
" In expressing astonishment at the career of Rochester, DE
WITT CLINTON remarked shortly before his death, that when he
passed the Genesee river on a tour with other commissioners for ex
ploring the route of the Erie Canal, in 1810, there was not a
house where Rochester now stands! In 1812 there were but two
frame dwellings here, small and rude enough — one of which yet
[1838] remaining to remind us of the change since the period when
the occupants of those shanties had to contend against wild beasts
for the scanty crop of corn first raised on a tract now in the heart
of the city."
" It was not till the year 1812 that the ' Hundred Jlcre Tract'
was planned as the nucleus of a settlement under the name of
Rochester, after the senior proprietor. This tract was a ' mill
lot,' bestowed by Phelps and Gorham -on a semi-savage, called
' Indian Allen,' as a bonus for building mills to grind corn and saw
boards for the new settlers in this region at that time. The mills
decayed as the business of the country was insufficient to support
them. Allen sold the property to Sir William Pultney, whose
estate then included a large section of the ' Genesee country.' It
is but thirty-six years since the tract was thus owned by a British
baronet. The sale to Rochester, Fitzhugh, and Carroll, took place
in 1802, at the rate of $17.50 per acre, or $1,750 for the lot [hun
dred acre tracts] with all its betterments."
Some of the land on the east side of the Genessee river in
Rochester (the hundred acre tract being on the west side) was
sold to Phelps and Gorham, in 1790, for eighteen pence per acre.'*
Now (1851) Rochester is an important city of over 40,000 popu
lation, and many of its lots are worth from $100 to $500 per foot.
Mr. O'Rielly further remarks :
" The immense facilities for trade and intercourse furnished to
Rochester [and Western New York] by canals and railroads, and
the benefits flowing from the Genesee river and Lake Ontario may
be estimated by any one who is capable of comprehending the
range of improvements now in progress, as well as that already
completed."
Speaking of New Englanders, he pays the following well-merited
tribute to their noble character :
" Those who properly appreciate the New England character, as
exemplified by the Pilgrim Champions of Human Rights, and by
XXV111 INTRODUCTION.
their lineage from the first settlement down to the present period,
may view with interest the living monument of intelligent enter
prise which has sprung into existence through the transforming
influence of Yankee colonists in the Western Wilderness. ' New
England ! — rich in intellect, though rude in soil — the intelligence
and enterprise of her sons in a fertile land have largely aided in
rendering the Genesee country the garden of this state.' Such
were among the sentiments with which a statesman of Eastern
origin was greeted by the people of llochester. The city itself is a
worthy monument of the glorious truth — a truth applicable to the
social condition, perhaps, as well as the physical improvements of
this region."
Upon the growth of Rochester Mr. O'Rielly very justly exults,
and challenges comparison, in this wise :
" With all the rage for speculation Westward — with all the new
villages and cities that have been laid out through the ' Far West'
during the last twenty years, where, in what place, through all
that broad and fertile region, can there be shown any town which
has surpassed ROCHESTER in the permanent increase of popula
tion, wealth, and business."
The writer of this little book was born in the " Genesee coun
try," passed his childhood there; then lived years in Rochester
to " serve his 'prenticeship ;" and afterward settled in the West ;
so that he will not yield to Mr. O'Rielly, even, in feelings of pride
and partiality for Western New York. But at this date, he can
truthfully record the statistics of a city which has proudly out
stripped Rochester in the growth of its business and population.
CHICAGO has vastly surpassed that city. In 1838, when Chi
cago commenced — as the small nucleus of an immense city — with
half a hundred buildings and less than three hundred population,
Rochester was already a city of some 12,000, the former thus only
about one thirty-sixth the size of the latter ; and now, in some
eighteen years growth, Chicago has advanced with such unequaled
strides, that the " Garden City" contains above 30,000, or over
three fourths as much population as the " Flour City."
And further : Mr. LAPHAM, in his useful book on Wisconsin,
replies to Mr. O'Rielly, in favor of MILWAUKEE, as follows :
" We may answer the question by making a little comparison.
"Rochester was laid out in 1812, and in 1816, or four years, the
population was three hundred and thirty-one. In 1820, or eight
years, the population was fifteen hundred.
" Milwaukee was laid out in 1835, and in 1839, or four years,
INTRODUCTION. XXIX
the population was fifteen hundred — or as much increase in four
years, as Rochester had in eight. But in 1843, or eight years, the
population of Milwaukee was over six thousand, or four times as
much as Rochester during the same period."
And both Chicago and Milwaukee are beautifully lighted with
gas, whose manufactories are neat and permanent.
Thus the West most clearly and triumphantly bears away the
palm for rapid growth ; but she had a proud example, to be sure,
in the progress of Western and Central New York.
Many counties in the Western States have already established
Agricultural and Horticultural Societies", annually holding their
Fairs and Cattle Shows. Wisconsin has also instituted a State
Agricultural Society, which holds its first regular Meeting and
Fair this Autumn.
And here, before entering upon the general matter of this vol
ume, several hints, of great importance to emigrants, suggest
themselves to me. Persons moving West, who can do so, will find
it much to their advantage to take with them a good supply of the
necessary Materials and Stocks for raising fine fruits ; such as
seedlings, choice grafts, scions, buds, etc., of all kinds, from grapes,
raspberries, -gooseberries, and apricots, up to peaches, apples,
pears, etc. They will find it not only a pleasure, but also profit
able ; as all such things once started in the West, are in constant
demand at good prices ; while all varieties of fruit always com
mand ready sale.
Seedling chestnut trees, filberts, and some other kinds, not in
digenous to the States of Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, are much
wanted, and will find ready sale, in case you should take with
you more than should be needed on yoxir own premises. Locust
seed is also useful and much needed there ; as that specie of tree
(the thorn locust is preferable) grows very rapidly and makes ex
cellent fencing stuifs ; besides being highly ornamental and com
fortable, both to residences and to stock, on wide prairie farms.
I have seen it grow to trees of four to six inches in diameter, in
from three to five years, from the time of planting the seed, on
those rank prairie-soils. Various thorn trees, or seeds, will be
found useful where the emigrant can take them with him ; the
buck and the branching white varieties being generally preferred.
The Osage orange is much used, and generally to advantage, but
that is procured from an opposite direction of country — west of
the Mississippi, and can be bought at Cincinnati, St. Louis, or
Chicago.
XXX INTRODUCTION.
And particularly will those moving West find it desirable and
profitable to take with them as much improved blood stock,
sheep, hogs, and poultry as they can; for no region will more
richly remunerate all expense and pains expended in such mat
ters, than will the Prairie Country ; where those things have been
too much neglected.
Far better is it for farmers and business men, going West, to
take with them these articles, than to take so much furniture as
many do, and so many farming utensils ; these latter are useful,
to be sure, but then, better ones can be procured at the factories
in Western towns than are generally taken there from the East ;
for it is true that better plows, and harvesting and thrashing ma
chines, are made there than in any other portion of our country,
and better adapted to that section; therefore, it is decidedly bet
ter to transport stock and fruit than farming utensils.
With a soil and pasturage unsurpassed on this continent ; and a
climate of great variety and highly favorable, the Western States
ought to surpass their older neighbors, at the East, in stock-rais
ing ; and they can do it with proper effort — care in selecting good
breeds — and by judicious crossing, and the high feeding so attain
able on the prairies.
Whether we consider stock-raising, grain-growing, or fruit-cul
ture, there is nowhere combined more favorable circumstances,
than in the region we are speaking of, for the agriculturist to
" cause two blades of grass to grow, where but one grew before ;"
and thereby become the best " benefactor of mankind ;" and this
will science and industry accomplish.
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
TRIP TO THE UPPER LAKES.
" KNOW ye the land where the Forest and Prairie
Spread broadest away by the Cataract's fall !
Where the harvests of earth the most plenteously vary,
And the children that reap them are happiest of all ;
Where the long rolling rivers go mightily trending,
With wealth on their billows, thro' many a clime :
Where the lakes, 'mid their woodlands, like seas are extending,
And the mountains rise lone in the center sublime 1" — WHITTIER.
AT BUFFALO, on Lake Erie, in the State of New York, we
will take cabin or steerage passage — just as we feel able or
inclined — both are comfortable, from the manner steam
boats are now constructed and arranged ; the price of the
former is $6 to $8, and the latter $2 to $4, to any of the
towns on Lake Michigan, in Wisconsin and Illinois,
However, if they desire, and wish to save one or two
days' time, persons can take steamboat to Monroe, Toledo,
or Detroit ; then the railroad across the State of Michigan,
to Michigan City, in Indiana, then steamboat again to Chi
cago, and other towns on the western shore of Lake Michi
gan. Though performed in quicker time, the fare is higher.
But for a view of the fine scenery, we now will take steam
boat for the trip round the Upper Lakes, particularly as we
are not in a great hurry.
Soon our splendid steamer is on a start for a trip of
some ten to twelve hundred miles through the Great Lakes,
which is performed in from three to five days, the weather
32 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
more favorable at some times than others, while some of
the boats make better speed than others.
After passing through Lake Erie, touching on our way
the beautiful and flourishing towns of Erie, Cleveland, and
Detroit, besides many other smaller ones, we run up
Detroit river, St. Clair lake, and a deep narrow river of
the same name, on whose banks are several small towns,
engaged principally in the lumber and fish trade ; and soon
we reach the foot of Lake Huron, with shores here, of a
dry sandy soil, which present two handsome tables, one
rising a few feet above the other, on which is situated the
delightful little town of Port Huron, with the elegant
evergreens sprinkled all through it, and nearly covering
the ground, with a thick grove in the rear. A little farther
on is the U. S. Station called Fort Gratiot, which, with its
white buildings and pickets shining in the midst of the
straight green pines, presents any thing but the grim-
visaged appearance of war.
On the opposite or northern side of the narrow river is
the Canada shore ; and it is a fact very generally noticeable,
that almost the entire distance from the head of Lake Erie
to the foot of Lake Huron, the Canada shore is the most
beautiful, and presents a more favorable appearance for
agriculture and business generally than the other side ; and
yet the tillage, the towns, the business, every thing on the
States' side is incomparably ahead of that displayed upon
the other. For the reason, every one can exercise his
own philosophy or judgment — we simply give the fact.
We make but a short stop here, and our steamer is off
again to dash her way through that broad, deep, bold sheet,
Lake Huron, whose shores, if the weather be favorable, and
allow us to be outside, will present to our view some sur
passingly wild and romantic scenery, in the mingled fea
tures which compose its borders — huge pine forests skirting
and fringing the rugged, sand-drifted banks, in many in-
LAKE HURON MACKINAW. 33
stances the bald hills rearing their yellow summits high
among the tall trees, blending their forms and colors in
fantastic beauty, presenting to fancy's eye the dreamy out
lines of birds, animals, and ships — as the "mystic ship,"
the "sleeping bear," the "flapping eagle," and various
others as curious and suggestive of mysterious legendary,
as the grotesque formations along the Hudson.
But if Old Boreas happen to be blowing some of his
rude blasts of shivering breath, piping all hands above,
there'll be cold comfort to sight-seers, and lively times
throughout the vessel, until we reach MACKINAW, and
under the lee of its lofty rock towers and wooded shores
obtain secure and tranquil moorings.
But before reaching the harbor, and upon entering the
celebrated Straits, we shall pass two large and picturesque
islands, of wild and rugged aspect — timbered and rocky ;
the largest is Bois Blanc, and the other Drummond island.
Then we soon reach Mackinaw island, on which is situ
ated the town and old fort of the same name. Here was
established one of the earliest posts of French Jesuits, in
their adventurous explorations about the middle of the
17th century ; some ambitious for discovery, and others
in quest of fortunes by trading with Indians for their furs.
About the close of the last war, Lieut. DANIEL CURTISS,
with a company of soldiers, was stationed at this fort,
where, some years after, his wife was killed by a flash of
lightning, while sitting at her window engaged on a piece
of embroidery. He afterward died at Fort Howard, near
Green Bay.
Here is the deep, narrow channel through which the
waters pass from Lake Michigan to Huron ; and here is
seen the most rugged yet picturesque scenery to be met in
our whole route, and surpassed by but few locations in any
part of our country. Here are towering ledges of pillared
and strata rocks, summit-crowned with everlasting pines,
34 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
and surrounded with deep, clear waters, where are taken
in great quantities the noted Mackinaw white fish and
trout, which constitute an important article in Western
commerce.
Mackinaw is becoming every year more and more a
place of summer resort, principally by Southerners, for
health and pleasure ; as the opportunities for hunting and
fishing are considerable. With pure water and air, and
exciting incentives to healthful exercise, it cannot well fail
to meet the expectations of visitors, and effect the end for
which they go to that place.
The permanent population is composed of French, In
dians, and half-breeds, with a few business men ; besides
the officers and soldiers stationed in the U. S. Garrison on
the hill above. The articles of export consist almost en
tirely of lumber, fish, peltries, and Indian fabrics ; the latter
being much purchased by visitors and passengers, while
the boats make their short stops for wood, fish, etc.
What, with the neat white buildings, bastions, fences,
and other fixtures of the fort, as they stand along on
elevated terraces, and the winding walks ranged around,
one above another, up the towering banks of green turf
and gray rock ; the waving forests and beetling observa
tory still rising in the back ground ; with the busy little
village under the bluffs along the water's edge, and the
Indian canoes scattered about upturned on the pebbly
beach, while numerous schooner masts and steam pipes
stretch up from the harbor — altogether, Mackinaw exhibits
some of the most charmingly diversified and unique views
that can wrell be imagined, particularly as seen from the
boat on a bright day when riding through the Straits. On
the other side the shores and peaks present more of a bald
sandy appearance, studded with scattering clumps of pine
trees, and small shrubs of other varieties.
Yet, above all, the gorgeous spectacle of sun-setting, as
GLORIOUS SUNSETS. 35
seen at this place, exceeds every thing of the kind that I
have ever beheld. The glorious sun, as he swings down
from the circling, curving strata of deep red and blue
clouds in the west — piled up in series closer and darker
along the lake's horizon, but becoming more mellow and
dispersed as the sight stretches farther up the soft ethereal
vault above — emblazons the rippled surface with crimson
and molten gold, as it were chased in brilliant metals,
while, the small broken ridges of serf curl along with a
whiter glow, like flowing robes studded with sparkling
gems ; investing the whole scene with the most enchanting
splendor. And at such times may be seen, through the
mellow radiance, vessels standing away upon this glitter
ing mirror beneath the blood-red clouds, stretched one over
another in fervid folds, their canvas taking the hues of
the surrounding elements throw back their reflected dupli
cates into the swelling bosom of the deep ; and, with more
or less sail set, as the breeze will permit, are wafted grace
fully along, resembling so many giant birds with their
glittering wings all spread, and plumage of varied hues —
fabled phenixes — -just risen from the flaming depths, as if,
with their own fiery wings fanned into existence, so little
do they res*emble cumbrous earth-forms. And at these
times, too, when the lakes are on fire with the gleaming
sunbeams, to see the mighty steamer like a thing of life
plowing through this sheet of waving crystals, emitting
clouds of smoke, sparks and vapor, gives to fancy the im
pression that it is the legitimate voyager of these prome
thean elements.
To the enthusiastic student of nature — be he pencil-
artist, poet, or philosopher — a visit here is above pecuni
ary price. Once witnessing these scenes wTill furnish the
mind with more matter for delighted and elevated reflec
tion, than scores of horse-races, prize-fights, and circus-
routs. And any one who can spare time and money for a
36 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
trip to Mackinaw, in summer or autumn, and stay long
enough at least, to see the sun rise and set, should do so ;
he will be amply, delightedly compensated for all his
pains. Kings love royal robes of magnificence ; but all
others dwindle into tame insignificance, when the King of
Day here displays the splendid vestments of his morning
and evening wardrobe. Go then, and see, for I can but
faintly portray, the brilliance of this picture gallery of
nature; unsurpassed even by Oriental dreams of mystic
enchantment in fairy isles.
Then visit, ye lovers of pleasure and sight-seeing, Lakes
Huron and Michigan — bathe in their waters, hunt among
their island forests, read in their grottos, where fragrant
boughs are wildly interlaced above you, and you may
drink deep of the fullest cup of rural life and romance.
" The silver light, with quivering glance,
' ^ ' Play'd on the water's clear expanse ;
Each purple peak, each flinty spire,
Was bathed in floods of living fire.
It is a wild and strange retreat,
As ever was trod by outlaw's feet."
The following lines by WILLIS G. CLARK, .though de
scriptive of a different location, express enough in common
with this place to render them an appropriate quotation
here, while their high-toned genius make them acceptable
everywhere :
" Who that hath stood, where summer brightly lay,
On some broad city, by a spreading bay,
And from a rural hight the scene surveyed,
While on the distant strand the billows play'd,
But felt the vital spirit of the scene,
What time the south-wind stray'd through foliage green,
And freshened from the dancing waves, went on,
By the gay groves, and fields, and gardens won?
When the tired sea-bird dips his wings in foam,
And hies him to his beetling, eyry home ;
BEAVER ISLANDS FOX MANITOUS. 37
When sun-gilt ships are parting from the strand,
And glittering streamers by the breeze are fanned ;
When the wide city's domes and piles aspire,
And rivers broad seemed touch'd with golden fire ;
Save where some gliding boat their luster breaks,
And volumed smoke its murky tower forsakes,
And surging in dark masses, soars to lie,
And stain the glory of the up-lifted sky ;
Oh, who at such a scene unmoved hath stood,
And gazed on town, and plain, and field, and flood,
Nor felt that life's keen spirit lingered there,
Through earth, and ocean, and the genial air ?"
Upon passing out of the Straits, on the left, are Beaver
islands, the largest of which has become somewhat noted
as the location of a Mormon town or colony, who are
building considerable, making other improvements, and
doing a fair amount of business; though evil-disposed
persons, it appears, have been inclined to harrass them,
for some reason or other. The soil is good, the timber
excellent, and the general appearance of the island is de
lightful. They are situated at the mouth of Traverse
Bay. Other small timbered tracts called the Fox islands
are located near by them.
SomewThat farther up the lake, to the left of the usual
steamboat course, are the Manitou islands, two romantic
and healthful resorts, where fishing and hunting may be
enjoyed to the highest zest of those rural sports; the
shores and forests are beautiful, the water clear and cold,
and the air bracing ; there is some resort to these bright
pastoral retreats for health, pleasure, and business ; and
steamers land here for wood, fish, etc. The pleasure of a
few days' rambles here will richly compensate the pleas
ure-seeker for his expense and pains.
In the opposite direction, near the entrance of Green
Bay, are the Grand Traverse islands, which possess many
of the characteristics of the other islands in Lake Michi
gan ; any of which, in their wild and picturesque features,
present charms that well reward the trouble of a visit.
4
38 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
• These islands passed, we soon reach the State of Wis
consin. After running along off the coast of that long,
narrow strip or promontory, jutting up between the lake
and Green Bay, called Door County, the first town we
reach is —
MANITOWOC, county-seat of Manitowov county. It is a
thriving town of some 1,500 population, having a fair har
bor at the mouth of the river, wdth a pier and light
house ; considerable business is done here, and numbers
of emigrants land every year.
The county contains a population of about 4,000. The
land is heavily timbered, generally, with pine, oak, maple,
and other varieties ; and some places considerably broken
by the water-courses, which furnish good water-powers.
The soil is rich and deep, mostly a heavy clay, with fre
quent strips of sandy loam. The lumber trade from this
region is extensive, and a source of gain to the inhabit
ants. Much good government land is yet for sale here at
$1.25 per acre; and on the whole, the county presents
fair inducements to the farmer and mechanic to settle
in it.
SHEBOYGAN is the next town, as we proceed south, or
up the lake, some thirty miles ; it is somewhat ahead of
the last named town in population and business, but much
the same in general characteristics, with a similar kind of
business — lumber and fish ; having good piers and other
harbor facilities, which must enable it to attain considera
ble importance in commercial operations.
Sheboygan county contains some 8,400 population, and
in the general description of its soil, timber, streams, etc.,
resembles the last named county, though in improvements
it is more advanced. Emigration to this county is con
siderable ; but still there is plenty of land to be bought
at government prices. Like most of the lake counties,
this one has Plankroads passing through it toward the
OZAUKEE WASHINGTON CO. MILWAUKEE. 39
interior of the state. In various parts of these counties
there are settlements of industrious Dutch and Norwegian
immigrants, who are making worthy progress in felling the
forests and tilling the soil.
It was off this port that, a few years ago, the terrible
and melancholy catastrophe of the burning of the propel
ler Phoenix happened; in which over one hundred and
thirty human lives were destroyed, swept away by the
flames and flood ; and among them those two interesting
girls, the Hazletines, perished, and even in sight of home,
as they were returning after a year's absence, at school in
Ohio — in sight of their father's dwelling, suddenly and
frightfully cut off without reaching and greeting that
anxious, loved home-circle ; the family even expecting
them, and on the look-out, were compelled to witness the
vessel and its inmates go down with the flames to the
deep.
OZAUKEE (formerly Port Washington) lies still south
some thirty miles; it is the county-seat of Washington
county, and contains a population of near 2,000 ; with con
venient harbor facilities ; and sustained by a country much
the same in soil, timber, inhabitants, and business pur
suits, as that north of it ; and which is being rapidly set
tled up by the tide of emigration, and by them industri
ously cultivated.
Washington county contains about 20,000 inhabitants,
and presents many fine farms, with ample room for many
more. Water-power and timber are abundant here ; and
much government land yet for sale. In this, as in the
other counties north of it, good quarries of stone are
found, both for building and lime.
MILWAUKEE is the next place reached ; it is the largest
city in Wisconsin — being the Emporium market-town of
that state, and the most important town on Lake Michi
gan, except CHICAGO, which is ninety miles farther south.
40 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Milwaukee is a city of some twenty years' growth, and
now contains 20,000 population. It is the county-seat of
Milwaukee county, which contains near 35,000 inhabitants,
a large number of whom are Dutch, Swiss, Norwegians,
and Irish, and who are, for the most part, quiet, industri
ous people.
Milwaukee is destined to become an important city in
point of business and population. It is noted for its
splendid blocks of buildings, and its superior brick, which
probably surpass those made in any other part of our nation.
They have become a valuable article of export to many
towns on the Great Lakes, and are an object of admiration
with all who see them, being hard, smooth, and of a
beautiful straw color.
The Milwaukee and Misissippi Railroad is already in
operation to WAUKESHA, a distance of about sixteen miles ;
and designed to be continued, as fast as possible, through
MADISON, the state capital, and thence to the Mississippi
river. There are also several Plankroads leading from
the city to different points in the interior, affording valua
ble convenience for hauling the country produce to the
lake for Eastern shipment, and taking merchandise back.
A better idea of the progress and character of this fine
young city and county may be formed from reading some
extracts from LAPHAM'S book, published in 1846, in con
trast with its present size and business. He says :
" In 1842, the population of the county of Milwaukee was
9,565 ; and such has been the rapid increase, since June of that
year, that the population may now (1846) be safely estimated at
twenty-five thousand." * * # " The county is twenty-four
miles square ; with a soil, generally speaking, abundantly rich,
adapted to the growth of the usual crops in this climate and lati
tude, and mostly covered with a heavy growth of fine timber."
* * " The shore of Lake Michigan, in this county, consists
of a bank of clay from twenty to one hundred feet high, and as
nearly perpendicular ns the nature of the material will admit.
OFTHE V^
UNIVERSITY 11
OF Jl
'•"•Ll F' "» n ^W^AUKEE — BAY — SCENERY. 41
From this, the country gradually rises, as we pass Westward, un
til we attain the summit between the Lake and Rock river, which
is three hundred and sixteen feet above the level of Lake Michi
gan."
""The surface of the country is broken by the valleys of several
streams, mostly running toward the south; but these valleys are
usually not much depressed below the general level." " Some of
the highest points in the western part of the county are probably
five hundred feet above the lake." " The whole county is based
upon limestone, mostly of a light-bluish gray color, disposed in
thin nearly horizontal layers or strata ; and is an excellent build
ing material, and affords good lime."
" Milwaukee is now incorporated as a city ; it is situated on the
river of the same name, near its mouth or entrance into Mil
waukee bay, of Lake Michigan, ninety miles north of Chicago,
one hundred and four southeast from Green Bay, and about
eighty due east from Madison. It was laid out as a village in
1835." " Such was the rapidity with which its population in
creased that in June of the succeeding year the number of its in
habitants was one thousand two hundred and six." " Within ten
years from the time when the first inhabitant arrived here, with a
view to permanent residence, we see a city with a population of at
least ten thousand."
" Milwaukee bay is a semicircular indentation of Lake Michi
gan, about six miles across, and three miles deep. The north and
south points or capes protect the shipping from the effects of all
storms and gales of wind, except those from the east, which seldom
occur. The bottom is clay, affording good anchorage ground."
Though Mr. L. was a resident, and an earnest well-
wisher of Milwaukee, he scarcely anticipated what that
city has already become, while its growth must still be
rapidly onward. The location is healthy and beautiful ;
and has attracted many settlers from various parts of
Western New York, with their capital to invest.
As an instance of the value of property in Milwaukee,
the Daily Wisconsin publishes the following notice of
sales of lots in that city, a short time since, for cash, and
remarks :
" This shows that there is some money here in spite of the
42
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
' hard times,' and also that there is a confidence in the rising value
of real estate in this city :
Lot
5
Block 7
$195 00
Lot 16
Block 117
$105 00
4
" 7
127 50
" 15
" 117
75 00
I
" 7
90 00
" 17
" 119
250 00
4
« 20
25 00
" 1
" 112
250 00
4
" 88
135 00
" 14
" 121
37 50
5
" 88
140 00
" 10
" 129
195 00
11
« 105
77 50
" 6
59
505 60
19
" 114
87 50
The same paper gives the following account of a hunt
ing and ducking excursion in that vicinity :
" One of our prominent citizens, receiving a visit from an east
ern friend, thought it incumbent upon himself to ' show the lions'
of the city, and the adjacent country. Among other things, a gun
ning excursion up the Menomonee river was planned, and, to a
certain extent, executed. In order to give the visitor a vivid im
pression of these * western wilds,' and to shoot Teal after the fash
ion of ' wild injuns,' a dug-out was chosen, in preference to a
more modern specimen of naval architecture. With considerable
internal trepidation, but with much external confidence, our ' old
settler' succeeded in paddling the log up to the shooting-ground.
On arriving there, he spied a duck among the reeds, and as is nat
ural for a mind occupied with an absorbing idea, in his eagerness
for the duck he forgot the dug-out, and started up to fire. There
was a report of a gun, two individual shouts, and two heavy simul
taneous splashes ; and ' there might have been seen,' for a few
seconds, nothing but a dug-out floating bottom up on the sur
face of the water. Our friends had made an involuntary dis
appearance in the cool waters of the stream. A few minutes
later, and two dismal-looking figures ' might also have been seen'
astride of the log, casting rueful glances at each other, and reliev
ing their over-filled mouths and nostrils of a very dubious-looking
fluid. One still retained his gun with a convulsive grasp. The
other, doubtless, considering his as an incumbrance under water,
had left it there. After collecting their scattered faculties, they
made a straight wake for shore, and thence to their residence,
wiser if not sadder men. One has had enough of ' primitive' gun
ning, and the other has ever since had implicit faith in modern
improvements."
EACINE KENOSHA. 43
From the large amount of excellent flour that is man
ufactured at Rochester, N. Y., that place is called the
"Flour City;" and from the same principle, the thriving,
queenly city of Milwaukee should be designated the
" Orange Brick City," from the vast numbers of superior
yellow brick which are made there.
RACINE is the next city, some twenty-five miles south
of the latter city ; and contains about 5,000 population.
It has a fine harbor and piers ; is a place of extensive
business ; and is county-seat of Racine county. Mr. Lap-
ham says of it :
" The population of Kacine was ascertained in October, 1845, to
be two thousand five hundred and nine. The amount of trade has
very considerably increased since 1842, especially in the exporta
tion of wheat, flour, beef, pork, and recently, wool is among its
exports."
Since then the business and population has greatly in
creased.
Racine county is a very small .one, with about 15,000
population, and composed mostly of beautiful, gently
rolling prairies, of the most fertile kind, with occasional
oak and hickory groves, and strips of timber along the
rivers ; though timber is rather scarce, yet the cheap price
of lumber and coal, by lake, in a degree compensates for
the want of timber. Some quarries of limestone are found
in the banks of the rivers.
KENOSHA (formerly Southport), is a city lying ten miles
south of the latter place, containing nearly the same num
ber of population, and doing about the same amount and
kind of business. It is the county-seat of Kenosha county,
and has a fine harbor.
Kenosha county is also a small county, which was re
cently part of and set off from Racine county. It contains
about 11,000 population. The soil, timber, streams, etc.,
are similar to those of that county — and presents some
44 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
of the most fertile, well-cultivated farms, in all the West
— with much excellent stock. The prairies which are
found in these counties, five to ten and fifteen miles from
the lake, are among the most beautiful in any part of the
prairie world. This is the southern lake town in Wiscon
sin, and though we are now to leave the -state, we hope
soon to return and describe the interior portions.
We have now passed the last county in Wisconsin,
lying on the lake, and fifteen miles south, we reach —
WAUKEGAN (formerly Littlefort) in Illinois, county-seat
of Lake county. It is a thriving city of about 4,000 pop
ulation. With its green sloping shores, its deep dusky
ravines, and rounded swelling hill in the center, on which
stands the court house; this is probably the most at
tractive location on the western shore of Lake Michigan.
It is a place of much business, and must have a rapid
growth for years, backed-up as it is, in three directions,
by a rich and extensive farming country, and a good har
bor and piers in front. It is about forty miles north of
Chicago. For a few miles immediately next around it,
there is considerable timber, and beyond that fine prairies.
Lake county is well watered by the head-fountains of Fox
and O' Plain rivers, which run south, and empty into the
Illinois.
All the towns which we have thus visited and described,
have at least one Newspaper published in their midst ;
some of them two ; while at Milwaukee there are about a
dozen, some daily, others weekly and monthly ; at Chicago
there are over twenty, some daily, weekly, and monthly.
There are also, passing through all the towns, from Mil
waukee to Chicago, two Telegraph lines — O'Rielly's and
Col. Speed's ; and both doing an active business, which
evinces great amount and activity in the commercial trans
actions of the towns.
CHICAGO is the next place we reach, although there are
CHICAGO RAILROAD CANAL. 45
one or two little embryo villages starting up along the lake
between this city and Waukegan, where are short piers,
wood-yards, and a few tenements.
Chicago, the county seat of Cook county, is much the
largest city on the lakes west of Buffalo ; and is the great
shipping point for northern, western, central, and even por
tions of southern Illinois. The Illinois and Michigan Ca
nal brings immense amounts of produce from the south
and southwest, while the Galena and Chicago Railroad
brings large quantities from the west and northwest, all of
which is shipped at Chicago, for the Atlantic seaboard ;
and in return these conveyances carry back to those sev
eral interior regions the vast vessel loads of merchandise
which come up the lakes, and are required by this western
and southern population.
The city is situated at the mouth of a river of the same
name, the main body of which1 sets back near two miles
into the town, then divides into two branches, both of
which have a uniform depth of from 12 to 15 feet water,
all furnishing a commodious and almost unlimited harbor
for an immense amount of shipping, of every description,
from the graceful yacht to the huge bark and magnificent
steamer; which continually throng the many miles of
wharfing, and crowd the channels with their exits and en
trances, daily and hourly.
The leading articles of export from this city are wheat,
flour, pork, beef, cattle, horses, wool, lard, etc., eastward
by steamboat and sail vessels ; lumber, merchandise, iron
ware, wood and iron machinery, farming utensils, etc.,
southward by canal, and westward by railroad. But the
lumber trade, more than any other, distinguishes Chicago.
It has hitherto been claimed that Bangor, Me., did the
most extensive lumber business of any city in our nation ;
but by reference to commercial tables in the newspapers
of that city, a short time since, it will be seen that, for the
46 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
last year, the lumber trade of Chicago exceeded that of
Bangor by nearly two hundred thousand feet, and each
place overgoing 175 millions feet.v The following, from
the Chicago Tribune, shows the lumber business of that city :
" For the benefit of our cotemporaries, we copy from our 'An
nual Review of the Trade and Commerce of Chicago, for the year
1850,' the amount, respectively, of the different descriptions of lum
ber received by Lake for that year :
Lumber (boards) , .feet, 100,367,797
Shingles, no., 55,423,750
Lath, pieces, 19,890,700
Pickets, « 100,393
Staves and Headings, " 3,000,000
Shingle Bolts, cords, 3,132
Square Timber, cubic feet, . . 63 ,579
Cedar Posts, no., 64,564
" The lumber trade has become one of the great features of the
commerce of Chicago. The following table exhibits very briefly
the operations in this department for the present year, contrasted
with that of 1849 :
Receipts. 1849. 1850.
Lumber, ft. , 73,259,533 100,364,797
Shingles, 50,579,750 77,347,750
Lath, 19,281,733 19,890,700 "
Chicago, being located on the shore of Lake Michigan,
embracing both sides of the river, on the borders of a wide,
rich, and beautiful prairie, extending in different directions
for many miles, handsomely diversified by small groves
and strips of timber, wrhich spring up at commodious in
tervals along the banks of the river, and in some places
on the lake shore ; all forming a very delightful and diver
sified picture, as it is viewed from some of the elevated
observatories of the city ; and particularly, when taken in
combination with the long, broad, and shaded avenues of
green which lead away into the expanded prairies, or ter
minate in the glittering lake, passing many beautiful gar-
SCENERY SHORES SOIL TRADE. 47
dens and elegant villas, does the scene become one of en
chanting loveliness.
The lands all about Chicago, with few exceptions, for
twenty to thirty miles distant, are valuable and held at
high prices ; but the character of the soil is such, that it is
better adapted to grazing and growing of corn, oats, bar
ley, and root crops, than to wheat ; it being an exceedingly
rich, deep, rank soil, upon which garden vegetables, straw
berries, and fruits flourish in great luxuriance. For the
most part, the soil is peaty loam, containing small por
tions of marl and sand, with a stiff clay subsoil, and occa
sional sand ridges, running through the meadows, parallel
to the lake, which leads many to the conclusion that the
lake has, from time to time, been receding from its original
bounds, leaving these ridges as its beach at various periods.
There is no marsh or impassably wet land about Chicago,
as strangers often imagine from a casual glance, though the
surface is very level, at a hight of from three to five feet
above the lake and river. And the winds, off and onto
the lake, create fluctuations in the water of the river from
twelve to twenty inches, much like tides in seaboard riv
ers, and have a fine effect in promoting health, by keeping
the waters active and fresh.
In regard to the direction of transportation and trade, as
touching the West and North West, the Chicago Daily
Tribune has the following :
"We have repeatedly called attention to the fact that the open
ing of the Illinois and Michigan Canal had changed the course
of trade of a very large portion of the productions of the Illinois
River Valley. Previous to that event, that region of country
found its only outlet to market by following the downward course
of the rivers to the Gulf of Mexico. The amount of corn, wheat,
pork, lard, beef, and tallow, and many other articles, that have
taken the Northern route the present season, is immense.
" Not only is it in the productions above referred to, that we find
a remarkable change in the course of trade, but merchandise oi
48 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
almost every description, passing from the East to the Illinois,
Mississippi, or Missouri rivers, are now forwarded by way of the
Lakes and the Illinois and Michigan Canal. Within a short time
past, we have noticed large consignments coming up the Lakes, en
route for the St. Louis market. Not only dry goods, boots and
shoes, but heavier articles, such as sugars, molasses, iron, and ma
chinery, are now taken by this route from the Seaboard into the
heart of the Great West.
" A late number of the St. Louis Intelligencer notices the ar
rival at that place of a canal-boat load of Porto Rico sugars, which
had been brought through from New York for 65c. per lOOlbs., and
insurance one per cent. Large quantities of fruits, teas, wines,
etc., are received in that city also by the same route.
" Furs, peltries, wool, etc., from the River Region, south of us,
are also being shipped North and East by the Illinois and Michi
gan Canal and the Lakes. Cotton is also seeking a Northern mar
ket by the Lake route. A late number of the Jllbany Evening
Journal says :
" ' A canal-boat is now in the basin, consigned to MONTEATH &
Co., laden with cotton — being the fourth which has brought this
staple from the West this season. The experiment bids fair to
prove successful.' Large quantities of tobacco have also been ship
ped East the present season, by the same route, and we understand
contracts have been made for future heavy shipments.
" In addition to the above, the shipment of beef cattle, by Lake
and Railroad, to the New York and Boston markets, has become
quite an important business. The New York Express, noticing
this fact, says : ' Beef is now sold in this city from cattle that were
grazing on the plains of Illinois a fortnight before. Cattle are
brought from Chicago to New York, all the way by steam, arriving,
of course, in much better flesh and in a more healthy condition
than if they had been driven.'
" These are movements in which the people of the North West
cannot fail to feel the most lively interest. They indicate import
ant results, and should be carefully studied by all who are in any
way connected with the commercial affairs of the country. Hence
forth, is our region of country, not only to sustain highly import
ant commercial relations with both South and North, by reason of
its abundant productions, but also, as a medium through which the
commercial exchanges of those remote districts will be effected.
We have only seen ' the beginning of the end.' "
CHICAGO COMMERCE PRODUCE.
49
The following tables, from the Commercial Reports in
that paper, will be interesting, as showing the amount of
tolls received from the Canal business, the dates of open
ing and closing its navigation, together with similar in
formation in regard to the Lake operations :
" The following table shows the amount of tolls collected at all
the offices of the Canal for three years :
1848.
March
April
May 6,22784
June 10,889 10
July 11,25837
August 10,480 21
September 21 ,150 49
October 16,961 26
November 9,597 21
December.. ..10942
1849.
1850.
4,986 26
4,694 69
17,114 06
13,112 87
15,986 15
19,263 42
14,521 86
11,954 68
11,93802
14,913 76
S-,446 76
18,177 67
14,055 57
18,480 41
22,235 56
16,546 58
15,267 63
1,643 24
37034
Total $86,673 80 118,787 32 124,974 21
" NOTE— Of the tolls for 1850, $87,856, $65,000 were received
at the Chicago Office."
" Date of first clearance for Lower Lakes, April 4th
last " " Nov. 27th
" first arrival from " April 6th
last " « Dec. 17th."
" The whole number of registered clearances for 1850 is 1066
Arrivals " 1668."
Below are farther tables, which show the state of mar
kets, with the amount of receipts and shipments by the
various mediums, at Chicago :
" The market for wheat opened here on March 16th, at 50a62j
for spring, and 70a85 for winter. By the first of April large lots
of spring were changing hands at 73a78 cents. Prices continued
advancing, with now and then slight fluctuations. On the loth
May, spring wheat was firm at 90 cents, and winter at $1.10. At
the same time flour ranged at .$8.75 to $6. 00, from inferior country
to extra city brands. In June the culminating point was reached
5
50 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
at $1.00a!rf>1.05 for spring wheat, and $1.15a$1.20 for winter, and
$4,50a$7.00 TOY flour. At this period the crops at the South gave
indications both of an early and abundant harvest.
" The first wheat of the new crop reached our market on the 20th
of July. At that date spring was worth 54a60, and winter 62a70.
Since then prices have fluctuated from 38a45 for spring, and 50a65
for winter, to 60a65 for spring, and 70a83 for winter — choice lots
for milling going higher. At the present time 47aGO for spring
wheat, and 65a78 for winter, are ruling rates.
" Corn, in the early part of the season, came forward freely by
Canal, during which time prices ranged in this market at 40a50c."
" The following figures will show the entire receipts and ship
ments of Grain and Flour from Dec. 1st, 1849, to Dec. 1st, 1850 :
Receipts. Shipments.
Wheat, bu 1,165,481 873,644
Corn 254,314 242,285
Oats 162,536 158,054
Barley 24,868 22,872
Rye 2,000 2,000
Flour, bbls 70,099 100,872
" The above figures are accurate, with the exception of so much
of them as comprise receipts by teams. We have made an earnest
and continued eifort through the whole year to keep an account of
the quantity reaching the city by this means. Unquestionably,
however, we have, now and then, failed to get an account of every
wagon load, and this will account for any seeming discrepancy
between receipts and shipments, when the consumption of the city
is taken into account.
" The shipments of wool by Lake in 1849 amounted to 520,202
Ibs,— in 1850 to 913,862— being an increase of 393,660 Ibs."
" During the present year there had been received by railroad
up to
Sept. 1st 195,200 Ibs
By canal to Oct. 1st 482,299 "
Other sources (estimated) 200,000 "
Total 877,499 "
Cincinnati has been long noted as the greatest pork and
hog market in the country ; but Chicago is as undoubt
edly the most extensive cattle and beef market in our
country.
CHICAGO COMMERCE, ETC. 51
The Slaughtering business has been more extensively
carried on during the present year than ever before in
Chicago. There is perhaps no other Western city that
slaughters the number of cattle which Chicago does. The
whole number of cattle slaughtered, during the season,
was 27,500 ; and the amount of capital invested, about
three fourths of a million of dollars. In addition, about
10,000 sheep have been slaughtered within two months.
The Commerce and Monetary matters of Chicago are
carried on by some eight or ten brokers and bankers ;
thirty to forty forwarding and commission houses and
produce buyers ; as many lumber dealers ; beside a
large number of wholesale merchants, in all branches of
mercantile operations, as dry goods, grocers, iron, hard
ware, and all kinds of wearing apparel from head to
foot ; together with a host of retail dealers, in every de
scription of mechanical work.
Here may be seen Hotels wrhich, in size and accommo
dation, are surpassed but by three or four in our nation.
Some of the Church edifices, too, are splendid specimens
of architecture, wTith many magnificent dwellings.
The three principal avenues of Transportation abroad,
are those before noticed — the Lakes, Railroads, and Canal.
Though these extracts and remarks give but a birds-eye
view of the Trade and Commerce of the " Garden City,"
still it will afford some idea of the vast amount of busi
ness there transacted.
Upon the Wholesale business of that city the Chicago
Democrat makes the following remarks :
" We have heretofore spdken of the additions made to our
•wholesaling firms within the past year or two. We still notice
that the increase of wholesale houses continues ; and this year in
a more marked degree than for any year previous. In fact, Water
Street is being built up, along its entire length, both on the
river and on the south side, with large buildings, fitted up in the
best manner for wholesale warehouses. These buildings are now,
52 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
for the most part, filled with large and varied stocks in the dry
goods, grocery, drug, boot and shoe, oil, paint, and hardware
lines.
" The completion of the Canal, and still more the extension of
the Railroads, have operated rather to the injury of our Retail es
tablishments, which, in many instances were transferred to the
country villages ; those that remained were compelled in a great
measure to confine their business to a merely city demand, which,
in the meantime, has been springing up in a most unprecedented
manner, and which has now more than made up for the loss caused
by the transfer of the country trade.
" The completion of the Canal and the Railroads, has, however,
created another trade — the Wholesale one, which has now taken a
fair start ; one, indeed, that promises well for its future extent
and prosperity. Our Wholesale establishments are now the pride
of our city, and are fully able to meet all the demands of the
trade scattered in the flourishing towns and villages around us.
" We have no doubt at all that it is for the interest of country
merchants to at least look in upon Chicago and see what we can
do for them. A fair trial is all that our merchants ask. If they
cannot sell them at as cheap rates as goods can be obtained for in
the East, they are satisfied to allow them continue on their way. If
goods can be obtained here, even a little above New York prices,
there is still the item of expense of traveling to be counted, to say
nothing of time, which, in these days of steam and lightning is
more than even money.
" There are other reasons which give Chicago the advantage.
A country merchant can here make a more careful selection of his
goods without being compelled to make large purchases of articles
which remain upon his shelves to be afterward sold at less than
cost. He can also run in upon the Railroad, make a selection of
a few articles required by him, sell them readily, and thus turn
his money quickly, realizing two per cent, where he formerly made
but one. In the meantime we would call the attention of our
country merchants to our wholesale establishments, to give them a
trial, in the full confidence that they will save money, time, and
trouble, by trading in Chicago, instead of going East, as many of
them have heretofore done."
Another improvement, which is largely characteristic
of the Western States, that greatly facilitates the business
between Chicago and the country, is the many Plankroads
PAPERS AURORA BOREALIS. 53
which lead, in different directions, out of the city to the
various farming districts.
These roads are substantially built of heavy plank, at
an expense of from $1,100 to $1,500 per mile ; and at toll
rates of 1J to 2 cents per mile, they pay a revenue, on
the capital invested, varying from 15, 25 to 40 per cent.
Most of the large towns situated along the Lake, the
Railroads, the Canal, and the Rivers, have Plankroads
running back into the country, by which the hauling of
produce in, and merchandise out, is greatly facilitated.
The States west of the Lakes have more of this kind of
roads, in proportion to the number of the population, than
*the older States have.
There are two excellent Agricultural Monthlies pub
lished in these States ; the Prairie Farmer, at Chicago ;
and the Wisconsin Farmer, in that State.
Of that phenomenon, Aurora Borealis, which is usu
ally so brilliant in that latitude, a recent number of the
Chicago Journal gives the following vivid description,
under the title of " ferial rehearsal :"
" On Monday evening, the sky presented a succession of the
most beautiful appearances we have seen in many a night. The
moon with a new coat of silver, rode high in the west, while in
the north and northeast, pure, pearly-white overlaid the blue —
then deepened to an orange — then turned to a crimson, till it look
ed like the pillar of fire in the wilderness, or a Daguerreotype of
sunset. Anon it changed — the crimson was pink — the blue a
blush, and the pearl a delicate green.
"What they Avere doing up aloft, is more than we knoAV —
whether rehearsing sunset or sunrise, 'shifting scenes,' for the
never-before performed drama of ' To-morrow,' or spreading out
rainbows on the upper decks, to dry, is to us a mystery. Now
and then, we saw white, silvery-looking spars- extending from the
northern horizon, and converging in the zenith; and it occurred
to us that may be they were repairing this great blue tent we live
under, and that we saw the bare spars, and the red linings of the
curtains that were thrown up to keep them out of the way of the
aerial craftsmen. And then again, as it crimsoned and pearled,
54 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
and clouded so exquisitely, we fancied it might be Heaven's grand
pattern for sea-sliells to tint by, that we had discovered at last.
And once more, ere we had quite made up our mind on this con
jecture, such a beam, nay cloud of red light streamed out into the
night, and over the stars, that we were sure it must come from
Heaven's painted window, and that somebody — perhaps, some
body we once knew and loved, and love still — was passing to and
fro, giving us, without the walls, a glimpse 6r two of the glory
within. As we kept looking, we kept fancying, and who knew,
but it might not be the evening of some forgotten and long-past
yesterday, thus ' revisiting the glimpses of the moon' — one that
you and we loved, and have sighed for, more than we would care
to tell, and would give a dozen to-morrows to see again.
" As we looked, it changed, and the whole heaven from far be
low the Dipper to the Zenith, was a flutter. Through the silvery
lace-work shone the stars and the blue, and the galaxy itself!*
What could it be, but the dim scarfs of the loved and lost, thus
waved in token of remembrance to the earth beneath ? And why
not ? How beautiful and how calm lay that earth, beneath the great
argus sky. The eyes of hundreds were turned toward Heaven,
that during the broad and glaring day, forgot there was a Heaven,
or a treasure in it. They remembered it then, and were remem
bered in turn! Ah! if our fancies were only half true !
" The books call it Aurora Borealis — what do we care for the
books ? and the philosophers declare it is electrical in its origin ;
a fig for the philosophers ! — the book of memory and the human
heart was printed and collated before that conceited old Ger
man, they tell of, ever cut a type, and as for philosophy, there is
more wisdom in a thought thus tinted with a ray shining through
last night from yesterday, than Seneca, or any body this side of
Solomon ever thought of.
" But while we gazed, the vision vanished, the window was cur
tained, the rehearsal over, the sea-shells taught their lesson, the
tent ' as good as new,' the old yesterday faded out, the last scene
shifted, and this paragraph ended."
It is generally recollected, no doubt, that in August,
1812, a most cruel and terrible massacre was perpetrated
upon the whites by the Indians, at this city, minute ac
counts of which have been often published, both in the
books of the late war with Great Britain, and more re-
CHICAGO THEN, AND NOW INDIANS. 55
eently in pamphlets and newspapers. There were few
more distressing or destructive scenes enacted during that
war, or which developed more daring heroism, than was
shown by some of the females, as well as males, then in
the garrison at old Fort Dearborn.
As the progress of a city or country will be more fully
appreciated by viewing its present condition in contrast
with earlier periods, I copy a description of Chicago, and
other parts of the West, from a work by LATROBE, writ
ten in the autumn of 1833, an intelligent tourist, who vis
ited the Great Lakes and the Mississippi at that time.
After describing a rough and tedious overland journey
from Detroit westward — such as many before and since
have experienced and can \yell appreciate — he says :
" When within five miles of Chicago, we came to the first Indian
encampment. Five thousand Indians — Pottawattomees — were said
to be collected around this upstart village, for the prosecution of
the treaty, by which they were to cede their lands, in Illinois and
Michigan, to the whites."
"I have been in many odd assemblages of my species, but in
few, if any, of an equally singular character, as that in the midst
of which we were surrounded, at Chicago, This little mushroom
town is situated on the verge of a level tract of country, for the
greater part consisting of open prairie lands, at a point where a
small river, whose sources interlock — in the wet season — with
those of the Illinois [O'Plain] river, enters Lake Michigan. It,
however, forms no harbor; and vessels must anchor in the open
lake, which spreads to the horizon on the North and East in a
sheet of uniform extent."
And Chicago river " forms no harbor !" This will be
news to the thousands of extensive commercial men, whose
numerous vessels and steamers now lie safely and com-
-modiously along the many miles of wharfs on the main
trunk and branches of that deep and busy river. And it
would be astonishing, beyond measure, to this same tour
ist who, eighteen years ago, wrote that sentence — and in
56 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
all candor, no doubt — were he now to visit this " mush
room " town, and sail up that same river in one of our
magnificent steamers, to witness the fleets of every dcscrip
tion of shipping, which, in size and numbers, would make
a respectable show, even in his favorite Thames ; to look
at the mountains of lumber, the hundreds of massive five
and six story buildings, count the steeples of twenty to
thirty towering churches, and the shining cupolas of splen
did school-houses and colleges ; with the many tall smoke-
chimneys of prosperous factories ; and then watch the
snorting, dashing steam-horses hauling their long trains,
that make the prairies tremble again ; and see the more
than thirty-one thousand population which occupy this
city, and enjoy its advantages and prosperity. But he
continues :
"The river, after approaching near at right angles to within a
few hundred yards of the lake, makes a short turn and runs to the
southward, parallel with the beach. Fort Dearborn and the light
house are placed at the angle thus formed. The former is a small
stockaded inclosure with several block-houses, and is garrisoned
by two companies of infantry. It had been nearly abandoned until
the late Indian war on the frontier made its occupation necessary.
The upstart village lies chiefly on the right bank of the river, above
the fort. When the proposed steamboat communication Between
Chicago and the St. Joseph river, which lies some miles across the
lake, is put into operation, the journey to Detroit may be effected
in three days ; whereas, we had been upward of six days on the
road."
Should that traveler pass over this route now, he would
find himself only a faint prophet of coming events ; for,
instead of being three days, he would perform the trip from
Detroit to Chicago in about fifteen hours, or less. He
continues :
"We found the village, on our arrival, crowded to excess, and
we procured, with great difficulty, a small apartment, comfortless
and noisy from its close proximity to others, but quite as good as
INDIANS TREATY CHICAGO. 57
we could have hoped for. The Pottawattomees were encamped on
all sides — on the wide and level prairies beyond the scattered vil
lage, beneath the shelter of the low Avoods which chequered them,
along the banks of the small river, or on the leeward of the sand
hills, near the beach of the lake."
" A preliminary council had been held with the chiefs some days
before our arrival."
" Such was the state of affairs on our arrival ; companies of old
warriors might be seen sitting and smoking under every bush, ar
guing, palavering or pow-owing, with great earnestness ; but there
seemed no probability of bringing them to another council in a
hurry."
" But I was going to give you an inventory of the contents of
Chicago, when the recollection of the warm-hearted intercourse
which we had enjoyed with many fine fellows, whom probably we
shall neither see nor hear of again, drew me aside."
" Next in rank to the Officers and Commissioners, may be noticed
certain store-keepers and grocers, resident here, looking for their
custom and profit either to the influx of new settlers establishing
themselves in the neighborhood, or to those passing farther west
ward — not to forget the chance of extraordinary occasions like the
present. Add to these a doctor or two, two or three lawyers, a
land agent, and five or six hotel-keepers ; these may be considered
the stationary occupants and proprietors of the score of clap-board
houses around you. Then for the birds of passage — exclusive of
the Pottawattomees — you have emigrants and speculators as nu
merous as the sand ; horse-dealers, and horse-stealers, rogues of
every description — white, black, and red — half-breeds, quarter-
breeds, and men of no breed at all ; dealers in pigs, poultry, and
potatoes; creditors of the Indians, sharpers, peddlers, grog-sellers,
Indian agents, traders, and contractors to supply the Pottawatto
mees."
" All was bustle and tumult, especially at the hour set apart for
the distribution of the rations to the tribes. Many were the scenes
which here presented themselves, exhibiting the habits of both the
red men and the semi-civilized beings around them."
" But how sped the treaty ? you \vill ask. Day after day pass
ed; it was in vain that the signal-gun from the fort gave notice of
an assembling of chiefs at the council-fire. Pteasons were (by the
Indians) always found for delay ; one day an influential chief was
out of the way; another, the sky looked cloudy, and the Indian
never performs any important business, except the sky be clear.
58 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" At length, on the 21st of September, 1833, the Pottawattomees
resolved to meet the Commissioners. We were politely invited to
be present. The council-fire was lighted under a spacious shed in
the green meadow, on the opposite side of the river from that on
which the Fort stood. From the difficulty of getting all together,
it was late in the afternoon when they assembled."
" Three days later, before we quitted Chicago on the 25th, the
Treaty with the Indians was concluded ; the Commissioners put
ting their hands, and the Chiefs their paws, to the same. By it,
an apparently advantageous swop was made for both parties ; the
main conditions of which, if we were correctly informed, were —
that the Indians should remove from the territory which they now
occupied, within three years time, being conveyed, at Government
expense, beyond the Mississippi, and over the State of Missouri to
the western boundary of the latter, where 5,000,000 acres of rich,
fine land were to be set apart for them ; and that they were to be
supported for one year after their arrival in their new possessions ;
moreover, the Government bound itself to pay them, over and
above, a million of dollars ; part of which sum being set apart for
the payment of the debts of the tribe, part for a permanent school
fund, and part for agricultural purposes, presents, and so forth."
Now, in 1851, this location, of scenes so graphically
described, is occupied by a gay, wealthy, and flourishing
city, of over 31,000 population ; and most of the Indian tract
is converted into a fruitful, highly cultivated agricultural dis
trict ; presenting numerous cheerful dwellings, fine fences,
luxuriant crops, tasty gardens, and thrifty stock ; the fields
inclosed variously, with rail, board, wire, sod, and hedge
fences; in all, exhibiting a charming and prosperous pic
ture, to excite admiration and gladness in every observer.
Some idea of the labor and productiveness of the farm
ing region which seeks Chicago as its transportation depot,
may be formed from the fact, that in a single year the
value of exports from that place has been between two and
three millions of dollars ; beside its vast lumber trade, of
nearly two hundred million feet, distributed in all direc
tions, to supply the wants of a vast country, so rapidly be
ing settled and ornamented with fine buildings fences, etc.
SCHOOL FUND OF THE WEST. 59
The greatest ornament of Chicago is its Primary Schools
— its common or free school edifices are the best build
ings, for that purpose, that I have ever seen in any city ;
while the tuition and management of the schools within
are of as high and proficient grade, as those to be found
anywhere else.
The School Fund of the city, derived from its school
lands, is large and ample, which warrants the payment of
good salaries ; and, consequently, secures teachers of the
highest order of competency. The same may be said, to
a certain extent, of the schools of most of the cities and
towns in the Western States ; the donation or appropria
tion of the public lands, by Congress, for this purpose,
being large and liberal. Beside the amount of lands set
apart specifically for educational purposes — both primary
and university — being every section sixteen, besides other
tracts — a certain per centage, also, of the moneys derived
from the sale of all public lands, by the General Govern
ment, within the State, is to be appropriated to the school
fund : so that there is no part of the Union so richly sup
plied with school funds, in proportion to its population, as
some of these New States — and no section where a liberal
education can be obtained at so small expense, as here.
The school houses in Chicago, Milwaukee, Dubuque,
and some other places in the West, are really elegant
palaces, and ornaments both in size and style ; and their
operations within are truly fountains of knowledge.
The higher institutions of learning are proportionally
useful and creditable ; and would even do honor to older
cities.
In several directions from the city, at the distance of
three to five miles, great abundance of limestone, of the
very best quality for lime and building purposes, is quar
ried ; and which proves to be of great convenience and
advantage.
60 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Some eleven miles south westward from Chicago is a
pleasant location called SUMMIT ; it is situated on the west
bank of the Canal. At the commencement of that work,
when it was designed for a ship canal, this point was laid
out and designed for a large town. It is a beautiful sand
and gravel ridge, covered with a fine grove of oak and
hickory trees, some two miles long by half a mile wide,
bordered in two directions by the best of prairie lands,
and skirted on the other sides by the river timber ; it lies
some 20 or 30 feet higher than the Canal, and nearly 50
feet higher than Chicago ; it is the highest point of land
for many miles from the city ; . and presents excellent
and healthful sites for farms.
Near by, on the north side of Canal and river, located
where the Plankroad crosses the O'Plain river, is the lit
tle town of LYONS, a place of note for the great quantities
of good lime quarried and burned there — large portions
of which 'are carried into the city, over the Plankroad, and
has become a profitable business.
Some 12 or 14 miles south of Chicago, at the mouth
of Calumet river, there is a new town being built, of the
name of the river. It is laid out in lots, many have been
sold, arid the place is principally owned by men in Chicago.
A light-house and some other improvements have been
made; the mouth of the river, with some piering and
dredge- work, will afford a tolerable harbor and business
facilities ; and CALUMET may yet become a considerable
city.
We have thus taken a hasty look at the Lake Towns of
Wisconsin and Illinois, in a short call upon them ; and
Hiough we have seen very much to delight us, we shall be
hone the less pleased with the interior towns and resources
of the Western States, which we shall examine carefully,
on a tour through them, after returning from a flying trip
of observation down the Illinois and Mississippi rivers to
TRIP TO MINNESOTA. 61
St. Louis, in Missouri ; and then, up the latter river, to
Minnesota, of which Territory I will endeavor to give a
faithful general description ; in regard to its topography,
resources, business, curiosities, and prospects.
But here, as in all parts of the West, we shall realize
the truth of the following remark : " In describing Amer
ican scenery, if we would make our picture a true one, we
must —
" « Catch, ere she change, the Cynthia of a minute.' "
62 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
TRIP SECOND— MINNESOTA.
AT Chicago we take Canal Packets, or Eailroad and
Stages, for La Salle and Peru, southwestward from the
city, at the junction of the Canal and Illinois river, and
head of steamboat navigation on that stream ; though, in
seasons of high water, steamers run up sixteen miles far
ther to Ottawa, where Fox river empties into the Illinois.
The length of this Canal is about one hundred miles ;
which distance is usually run, by the Packets, in twenty
to twenty-four hours ; and except when too much crowded
affords a very pleasant passage, as they are comfortable
and managed by gentlemanly Officers ; fare $4 ; but there
is a line of freight and emigrant Packets, which run
through in a little longer time, carrying passengers with a
fair amount of luggage for from $2 to $3 ; and for a little
additional charge this latter class of boats will carry
furniture and light merchandise.
There are also a large number of substantial freight
and line boats, which carry families much cheaper, though
with less comfort, than the Packets, where it is desired,
and where they are in less hurry to get through.
These Packets leave Chicago and La Salle regularly at
morning, noon, and evening of each day. The Canal is
now in operation its fourth year ; and the convenience of
travel caused by it, with daily lines of good steamers on
the Illinois river, has diverted much of the travel this
way, which, before its opening, sought the Ohio river
route, to Eastern Summer Resorts; though it is now
thought less pleasant than the Illinois and Lake route.
The Canal lies along the fertile and picturesque valley
THE CANAL TOWNS LANDS. 63
of the O'Plain and Illinois rivers ; crossing, in its way by
aqueducts, Aux Sauble, Fox, and Vermillion rivers ; and,
running along under the Kankakee Bluffs, presents a fine
view of the beautiful valley of that river, as it stretches
away to the northeast, through good prairie lands, into
Indiana, its shores skirted with strips of valuable timber.
At the junction of this river with the O'Plain, under the
bluffs (some fifty miles southwest of Chicago) is what is
commonly called the commencement of the Illinois river,
these waters being known by those names only above the
rapids at this junction, and as the Illinois below them.
The combination of these singular and varied features
of nature and art, at this point — rugged bluffs, gentle
slopes, shady vales, fertile cultivated prairies, and dashing
streams, with the smooth, regular, and walled Canal — alto
gether render this one of the most delightful locations for
healthy atmosphere and beautiful prospects on the whole
route, from Chicago to St. Louis.
There are many thriving and handsome towns, along
the Canal, containing from one to four thousand popula
tion ; and which have almost entirely sprung up since the
digging of the Canal, which has been but a few years.
The principal ones are Lockport, Joliet, Morris, Ottowa,
La Salle, and Peru.
The lands along the Canal, for the most part, are of the
very best quality — deep, sandy loam, and alluvion, with
occasional ridges of white and yellow gravel, spurs of lime
and sand rock, valuable for building and lime ; and fre
quent strips or tracts of marl and clay ; beside numerous
extensive beds of good coal. The combination of these
elements of wealth, with the great facilities which the Ca
nal furnishes for markets, south and east, to the Great
Lakes and the Mississippi, gender it a highly favored region
of country, and one richly deserving the attention of the
emigrant, whether farmer, mechanic, or other business
64 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
man. The Rock Island, La Salle, and Chicago Railroad,
is also to run through this section ; and the Engineers are
already in the field, making explorations.
I believe this project of opening a Canal navigation be
tween the waters of Lake Michigan and the Mississippi,
was conceived in 1823, not long after the commencement
of the Erie Canal. For this work Congress made a grant
to the State of Illinois of each alternate section of govern
ment land, within a space of five miles each side of the line
of the Canal. In 1823 a Board of Commissioners, with En
gineers, explored the route and made an estimate of cost
required to construct the work. In 1829 a new Board of
Commissioners was appointed, who made a new survey
and estimate, and several towns along the line were laid
off, and lots sold. In the winter of 1835-G, the Illinois
Legislature passed an act for the construction of this Ca
nal, under the title of the "Illinois and Michigan Canal."
The following are the dimensions of the work, viz. : seventy
feet wide at the top, thirty-six at the bottom, and six feet
deep.
The expense of the construction of this stupendous en
terprise is to be met from the proceeds of the sales of this
vast tract of land, ten miles wide, granted by Congress for
that purpose.
It was a truly vast undertaking, for a young state, but
it is now completed, and doing an immense business ; and
beside its inestimable advantages to the State, it possesses
great national importance, being greatly beneficial to East,
West, and South. A traveler through Illinois, in 1837,
writes as follows :
" PKRU is situated on the Illinois river, at the head of river navi
gation, and is the point of termination of the Illinois and Michigan
Canal. This Canal, when completed, will be one of the most
splendid projects of internal improvements in the Union. It unites
the Mississippi with our Inland Seas, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence
with the Gulf of Mexico."
CANAL LANDS TOLLS, ETC. 65
Of these Canal Lands, mostly a fine quality of prairie,
with occasional groves of timber — considerable quantities
have been sold since the completion of the Canal, but
large portions yet remain in market ; which are offered for
sale, at Auction, in May of each year, the appraised value — •
ranging from $2.50 to $10, and upward, per acre — being
in all cases the minimum or first bid. The sales now take
place at Chicago, though formerly they were held at dif
ferent places along the route. The Canal Company also
have some fine land's in the " Rock River country," which
are subject to the same manner of sales.
The whole amount of land granted for this Canal, and
which came into the hands of the Trustees, was 230,000
acres; amount sold up to the spring of 1851, 70,000; re
maining to be sold, 160,000.
The whole amount of Tolls received on this Canal for
the present year, up to November 1st, was $149,562,
being a considerable increase upon any previous year.
Of this Company, Captain SWIFT, of Springfield, is Presi
dent ; and Hon. DAVIT LEAVITT, of New York, Treasurer.
The whole amount of Produce shipped at Chicago
during the same period — much of it received by Canal —
was, of wheat, 226,060 bushels ; of flour, 33,245 barrels ;
corn, 2,237,975 bushels; oats, 551,483 bushels. This is
also a large increase upon the amount shipped previous
years, during the same months. In addition to this, there
have been large quantities of beef, pork, lard, and tallow
shipped ; together with many hundred heads of live cattle,
which has not been the case in previous seasons.
In passing over this route the traveler will see many
finely cultivated farms, much well-bred and fed stock,
and some good orchards, though in this latter luxury, I
regret to see far too little attention paid by settlers, gen
erally, though there are pleasant exceptions in some
regions.
66 WESTERN PORTRAITURE,
Here, as in the West generally, the industrious, judi
cious, down-east farmer, can derive twice as much produce
and profit for his economy and toil, as is the usual reward
received for the same effort in the old states.
The several counties through which the Canal passes,
are —
Cook, of which CHICAGO is the county-seat. Though
the land in this county is what is often denominated prai
rie, still most of it differs from the true prairies of the
West ; it is more flat and level, and should properly be
called savannahs, partaking more of the characteristics of
that description of surface — nearly resembling the savan
nahs along the ocean and gulfs — than the Western prai
ries. They are, however, excellent lands for tillage,
gardens, fruits, etc., and afford the finest of meadows.
The soil is mostly a sandy loam, alluvial, with traces of
marl, and of one to three feet depth, supported on a
heavy clay sub-soil. Population of Cook county, 43,385 ;
dwellings, 7,674; farms, 1,857; manufactories, 227.
Dupage county comes next, of which NAPERVILLE is the
county-seat, a fine flourishing village, of near 2,000 popu
lation, situated on the Dupage river, which furnishes a
good water-power, and sixteen miles from the Canal. This
is a new county, containing much excellent land, similar
to that of the Fox River country. Population, 9.290;
dwellings, 1,568; farms, 1,175; manufactories, 38.
Will county is unsurpassed by any in this range, for the
good quality of its lands, or the perfection of its improve
ments, elegant farms, and fine stock, fruits, etc. There is a
farming community in one portion of this county, near
Lockport, known as the " Yankee Settlement ;" which, for
well-cultivated, productive farms, and as good livers, will
compare favorably with many settlements in the land
from which their cognomen is derived. Population,
16,703 ; dwellings, 2,796 ; farms, 1,200 ; manufac. 94.
. JOLIET LOCKPORT GRUNDY CO. MORRIS. 67
The county-seat of Will is JOLIET, a vigorous, pros
pering, and beautiful village, of some 3,000 population.
The O'Plain and Canal run through this village, and afford
valuable water-power, which is considerably occupied with
cloth factories, mills, etc. Superior building stone is
quarried here in abundance.
The next most important village in this county is LOCK-
PORT, five miles from the county-seat. It is equal in
beauty of location and improvement with any town on
the route, and contains about 2,000 population. It pos
sesses extensive water-power, and good stone quarries.
Here is located the General Office of business for the
Canal Company and its Lands.
Grundy comes next, and is one of the new counties.
It is equal to Will in the natural excellence of its lands,
though not, as yet, so extensively cultivated ; still, it pre
sents some wTell-improved farms, with a fair show of good
stock. In some places good building stone is quarried,
and numerous coal beds have been opened. The Illinois
and Aux Sable rivers run through this county. Popula
tion, 3,023 ; dwellings, 543 ; farms, 327 ; manufac. 7.
MORRIS, is the county-seat, and has enjoyed as rapid
growth, since the completion of the Canal, as any town
through which it passes ; while its delightful location is
unsurpassed by any village on the line, having a smooth
and gently inclining surface toward the Canal and river ;
with pleasant groves on two sides, and rich prairies spread
ing away to considerable distance in the two other direc
tions. Although of but few years age, its population is
now nearly 1,000. As in the other towns named, there
is at Morris a Newspaper, and a Telegraph office. Joliet
and Ottowa have two newspapers each, and Lockport, La
Salle, and Peru one each.
The last county, through which the Canal passes, is La
Salle. For its good lands and farms, its coal, stone, tim-
68 \VESTERN PORTRAITURE.
ber, and water-powers this is a rich and important county.
It is watered by the Illinois, Fox, and Vermillion rivers.
Pop. 17,815; dwellings, 3,075; farms, 1,336; manuf. 46.
OTTOWA, the county-seat, is a beautiful and flourishing
village of some 3,500 population ; it is situated on the
Canal at the junction of the Fox and Illinois rivers, which
cut deep channels through the sand rock, Fox river having
perpendicular banks from 15 to 25 feet high. This rock
is easily crushed, and is composed of pure white or crystal
sand, which is an admirable material for making the finest
glass ; and if as skillfully wrought, no doubt would equal
the splendid Bohemian glass. Here is also a fine water-
power.
The surface of the land and the scenery, at this point,
are very singular; there being two platteaus to the bluffs
or banks of the river ; one, a rounded smooth slope or
small hill lying from half to three quarters of a mile from
the river, leaving a level plain or interval of that width
between, some 20 to 25 feet above the river, with parts
gradually descending, and others perpendicular. On this
plain is built the village and runs the Canal. Ottowa is
laid out and built with considerable taste and beauty.
The Bluff on the south side of Illinois river is a grand po
sition, and overlooks a picturesque and lovely prospect
for many miles.
The route of 16 miles from here to the village of La
Salic is marked with much romantic scenery, and remem
bered for strange Indian legendary connected with the
high, rough, rocky bluffs of the Illinois, among which are,
Lover's Leap, Starved Rock, Buffalo Rock, etc., which af
ford thrilling stories and fruitful themes for the romancer
and poet. There are also, near by, some valuable mineral
springs, which might be improved to advantage, and be
come favorite resorts.
PERU and LA SALLE, are two growing villages, located
PERU LA SALLE ISLAND PRAIRIES. 69
at the junction of the Canal with Illinois river ; and lie
about one mile apart, but their rapid growth is such, and
the land being so favorable, the intermediate space wrill
undoubtedly soon be all built over, and the whole become
one large city. This being the point of union between
Canal and River navigation, and the eastern terminus of
the newly projected Railroad from the Mississippi river at
Rock Island, must speedily become a place of great com
mercial importance ; and in the opinion of the writer, will
ere long, rank and continue to be not less than the fifth
city, for wealth and population,- in the state, following in
grade the cities of Chicago, Alton, Rock Island, and
Galena.
Peru and La Salle are pleasantly situated — the business
portions being mostly down by the water, and the resir
deuces on the high and airy bluffs above, which overlook
a rich varied stretch of country, in different directions,
along the river and prairies.
In the river, fronting Peru, is a rich alluvial island,
which is highly cultivated, producing large crops and heavy
grass ; but in times of high freshets, much of the island
is inundated. On the side beyond the town, but a narrow
channel or slew divides the island from the mainland, the
navigable channel being next to the town, where the
largest steamers can float or lie with convenience; be
tween Canal and River, is a channel cut, of requisite di
mensions for Steamboats to pass.
The prairies, back of these towns, on the route toward
Rock river, are exceedingly rich and delightful ; and from
in June till September and into October, present a great
variety of fragrant and many-tinted flowers, which load
the breezes with their odors. This is, in fact, true of all
prairies and groves in the West —
" Boon nature scattered free and wild,
Each plant or flower, the mountain's child ;
70 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Here eglantine embalmed the air,
The hawthoriie and hazle mingled there;
The primrose pale and violet flower,
Found in each glen a bower."
The O'Rielly Telegraph line, from Chicago to St. Louis,
passes through the towns along the Canal ; thence down
the Illinois river, branching off to several interior towns,
as SPRINGFIELD, the State capital, Beardstown, Jackson
ville, Eushville, and some other towns ; and then through
Alton, spanning the Mississippi from Illinoistown into St.
Louis.
From Peru there is a branch of this Telegraph line,
running through Dixon, to Galena, thence to Dubuque, in
Iowa ; and here it branches off into Wisconsin, through
Grant and Iowa counties.
Thus, we see the West is strung in all directions with
these communicative lightning wires, which have convert
ed the whole canopy above us into one universal whisper
ing gallery of news and gossip, from all quarters of the
continent ; while Mr. O'Rielly and others, have a project
in agitation, for continuing these lines to Texas and Cali
fornia.
It is not very extravagant, when contemplated in the
light of what has been accomplished, with steam and elec
tricity during the last quarter of a century, to predict that
before the expiration of ten years — perhaps in five — we
shall see a Railroad and Telegraph in successful operation
from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; either through the in
strumentality of our own nation or by the British govern
ment.
Should our Government commence building such a Tel
egraph and Railroad, and make a proposition to laborers
that they would give them even small wages in money,
say ten dollars per month, more or less, beside board ;
and in addition give to each man who should work a year
160 acres, or a quarter section, of land; to those who
RAILROAD AND STAGE ROUTE. 71
should work half a year, half that amount ; and in the
same proportion for any time ; the land to be selected
from any government lands on the line and not nearer
than one mile of the road ; should the Government take
this course, or some similar one, they undoubtedly could
build the whole line in five years with very little diffi
culty ; and there is very little doubt, that as soon as any
part of the Road was built, beyond the Missouri river,
either at Council Bluffs, or Weston, or some other suitable
point, it would begin to pay for itself, in the lands it
would cause to be sold, together with the business it
should create in carrying emigrants and their merchandise
out, and bringing back the produce they should raise.
There is another very comfortable medium of convey
ance from Chicago to the Illinois river, which travelers can
take, if they wish ; which requires about the same length
of time, with the same price of fare as the Canal route. At
the former place, you take the cars of the Chicago and
Galena Railroad, to Aurora, some forty miles; thence,
stages to Ottowa, where you again take the Packets to the
river.
This Railroad and Stage route passes over a varied,
beautiful, and fertile tract of country, consisting of rolling
prairies and scattered groves ; with numerous well-tilled
farms, good buildings, fences, etc. That portion traveled
by Railroad crosses the O'Plain, Dupage, and Fox rivers,
with many smaller streams ; which drain a section of prai
ries and timbered lands, not surpassed by any in the state.
And that portion traveled by the Stages, mostly lies along
the valley of the Fox river, so famous for its rich lands,
fine stone quarries, coal beds, timber, and useful water-
powers, already very extensively occupied by mills, facto
ries, and machinery generally ; surrounded and sustained
by communities of industrious, forehanded, and intelligent
farmers.
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
The Fox RIVER COUNTRY, as it is called, is noted as be
ing one of the best agricultural districts in the state ; and
as well advanced in improvement as any. This river takes
its rise in the. State of Wisconsin, and runs nearly a south
ern direction, till it empties into Illinois river at Ottowa.
In several of the towns on this river there are good paper
mills.
That distinguishing characteristic of the States of Illinois,
Iowa, and Wisconsin — prairie, or timberless land — may be
seen in its fullest or most perfect aspect, by a journey
along this river. I transcribe the following remarks, upon
Prairies, from an intelligent writer who traversed the West
ern States in 1837, as being a more happy description than
I can write :
" Prairie is a French word, signifying meadow, and is applied
to any land that is "destitute of timber and brush, and clothed with
grass ; wet, dry, level, and rolling are terms of description merely,
and apply to prairies in the same sense as they do to forest lands.
Of those prairies these lines of the poet are truly descriptive :
" 'Travelers, ent'ring here, behold around
The large and spacious plain on every side,
Strewed with beauty, whose fair, grassy ground,
Mantled with green and richly beautified !'
" Their soil is deep, friable, and of exhaustless fertility ; excel
lent, in apposite latitudes, for wheat, maize, etc. ; grapes, hitherto,
have not been much cultivated ; yet, as wild ones grow luxuriantly,
it can hardly be doubted that a hybridous species, formed from a
union of one of these natives and the exotic vine, would prove pro
lific of estimable fruit. From May to October, the prairies are
covered with rank grass and flowering weeds. In June and July,
they seem like an ocean of flowers of various hues, waving to the
breezes that sweep over them. The numerous tall towering vege
tables which grow luxuriantly over these plains, present a striking
and delightful appearance."
In the ROCK RIVER COUNTRY, which lies parallel to and
west of Fox river, the prairies are very similar in all
their characteristics, in fact of the same excellence, while
PRAIRIE GARDENS WESTERN FARMS. 73
they are generally larger, extending often at much greater
distance without the interruption of timber.
But the various Railroads already under way, and speed
ily to penetrate these immense fields — carrying to them
all the facilities of business, as lumber and machinery, with
the necessary merchandise, and bringing back their rich
and abundant products — will place them at once before the
gates of the great Seaboard Markets, where they will be
welcomed as the granaries and bountiful larders for the
millions of mechanical and commercial operatives whom
they will feed.
And there are yet thousands of acres of these luxuriant
lands, now for sale, in favorable and pleasant locations, at
the low price of one dollar and a quarter per acre. Noth
ing can be more true than the following lines from one of
nature's noblest adorers :
"These are the Gardens of the desert — these
The unshorn fields — boundless and beautiful,
And fresh as the young earth ere man h.id sinned.
The Prairies ! I behold them the first time,
And my heait swells, while the dilated sight
Takes in the encircling vastness.1' — BRYANT.
We say, then, to the mechanic, pent up in dense, suffo
cating city or crowded town, who can scarcely breathe free
and pure breaths, for want of room, or toil freely, and
pleasantly, and profitably, from the austere and selfish
dictation of many arrogant employers, and who derive at
least three fourths of the profits of your labor ; to such I
say, come to the fresh and fruitful West, where you may
easily have an independent and pleasant home.
To the young farmer, who toils the long, hot days, for
the paltry sum of ten or a dozen dollars per month ; or to
him who rents land, returning to others the " lion's share "
of all the products of his industry — to all, who would bet
ter their condition, rejuvenate their lives, and regain new
energies under brightened incentives — to such I say, con-
7 *
74 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
fidently and in a lively friendship, come and appropriate
to yourselves any necessary and proper amount of " these
Gardens, boundless and beautiful," which you can, so many
of you, easily do.
They will return you a greater yield of crops, for less
labor, and then you can obtain prices but little under
Eastern markets, transportation is now so cheap and
speedy ; which, as I have said elsewhere, in fact renders
these Western lands as valuable as those of the East.
Although the same thorough and careful system of
farming will succeed in different locations, to a reasonably
fair extent ; as for instance, the same general practice that
works well in the Genesee Country, will result the same
in Connecticut ; and the same management of soils and
crops which produces well in the Eastern States will also
produce tolerably well on the Western Prairies, as a gen
eral thing; but yet, a still different and peculiar system
or science is required in the management of the Prairies to
make them yield their greatest constant profit ; there are
some characteristics about their soils, and the principles of
cropping upon them, which are different and distinct from
any other in our country, and which require different
treatment than is practiced by farmers of any other re
gion ; these facts it would be well for farmers at the West,
or going there, to understand.
The writer of this is preparing a work — which will be
shortly published — upon Scientific Farming ; the applica
tion of Chemistry, Geology, and Meteorology to Agricul
ture, generally ; but the work is particularly devoted to
the best mode of tilling the Prairie Soils, and securing
crops from them — the application of these sciences to their
peculiarities.
In cases where the ordinary crops produced on plow-
lands should fail, as they often do, in the Eastern as in the
Western country, the growing of Flax and Hemp is a for-
FLAX HEMP FIRES. 75
tunate and profitable expedient to prevent the cultivator
of the soil from realizing that uncomfortable exclamation
that "all is lost;" as these are very sure crops, that very
rarely ever fail.
The Prairies have been proved to be peculiarly favora
ble to the growth of Flax ; and particularly, since the im
portant and useful discoveries and inventions by Doctor
LEAVITT, and others — of the science and art of converting
it into rich and beautiful fabrics, at small cost — does this
article become highly interesting to the agriculturist, and
the public generally. The culture of this crop is now
eliciting a lively attention which it has never before ob
tained in this country. It is probably second only to the
wheat crop in importance to the farmers of our country,
and especially of the West.
A good article of Flax Seed, of approved varieties, is
much wanted in the Prairie Country ; and should emi
grants take quantities with them, they will not find it come
amiss. This seed always commands a good price at St.
Louis, Chicago, and Milwaukee.
From " Illinois in 1837," I make the following ex
tracts, in relation to the fires on the prairies, and their
origin :
" On the origin of the prairie lands it is difficult to decide ;
various speculations have arisen on the subject, giving rise to a
diversity of opinions. The level surface (according to the ideas
of many) was formed by inundations. The whole of the State
(Illinois), from a few miles north of the Ohio river, where the prai
ries commence, affords tolerably conclusive evidence of having been
once covered with water, forming, probably, a large lake, similar
to Lake Michigan, etc."
• " From whatever cause the prairies at first originated, they are
undoubtedly perpetuated by the fires that have annually swept
over them, from an era probably long anterior to the earliest records
of our history."
" It is well known, that in the richest and most dry, level tracts,
the aboriginal inhabitants, before they had the use of f re-arms,
76 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
were in the habit of inclosing their game in circular fires, in order
that it might frighten and bewilder the animals, and thus render
them an easy prey."
" The Indians and hunters annually set fire to the prairies, in
order to dislodge the game ; the fire spreads with tremendous
rapidity, presenting one of the grandest and most terrible specta
cles in nature. The flames rush through the long grass, with a
noise like thunder ; dense clouds of smoke arise ; and the sky itself
appears almost on fire, particularly during the night. Travelers
then crossing the prairies are sometimes in danger, which they can
only escape by setting fire to the grass around, and taking shelter
in the burnt part, where the approaching flame will expire for want
of fuel. Most melancholy is the aspect of a burnt prairie, present
ing a uniform black surface, like a vast plain of charcoal."
Often I have, before now, watched the crackling and
roaring fire as it passed, with the mighty winds, over these
bright and graceful meadows, for hours in the night, the
whole scene one of light, life, and excitement ; when sud
denly, the combustible matter being all consumed, the
flames cease, all is dark, deathly-silent, with the black pall
of destruction spread like a universal vail of mourning upon
the earth ; and, of all spectacles in the world, this is the
most perfect exhibition of desolation, and at once realizes
to one the fullest sensation of despair imaginable.
Now, to return from this descriptive digression, we will
pursue our journey to St. Louis, and thence to Iowa and
Minnesota.
At Peru we take passage on board the Illinois river
steamboats, which run to St. Louis, a distance of about
311 miles, in twenty to thirty hours; fare $3 to $5.
Immediately along the Illinois river the lands, generally,
are low, rich, sometimes wet, and heavily timbered writh
elm, oak, walnut, linn, pawpaw, locust, sycamore, and many
other varieties ; valuable for lumber, building, and fencing.
This region will be more fully described hereafter in far
ther remarks upon the counties of the State, when they will
be portrayed in alphabetical order.
THE ILLINOIS EIVER COUNTRY. 77
The principal towns and cities which we shall pass, along
the river, on our way to St. Louis, are, Hennepin, Henry,
Lacon, Chillicothe, Eome, PEORIA, Pekin, Beardstown,
Meredosia, Naples, Columbia, Grafton, and ALTON. These
places will all be more minutely described, with the coun
ties in which they are located. Peoria and Alton are flour
ishing and elegant cities — the former of about 7,000, and
the latter some 14,000 population.
The country drained by the Illinois river, and its tribu
taries, on both sides, presents a greater variety of soil and
surface than, perhaps, any other in the state. Its rich al
luvial and heavy timbered bottoms ; the intervals between
these and the, highest prairies, combined with these dry
undulating meadows, and all within sight of the river at
many points — a convenient contiguity of heavy forests,
rich grass and corn lands, and dry clover and wheat soils
— entitle this district to be reckoned among the very best
in the " Sucker State;" and in it there is still considerable
government land for sale.
In the opinion of some, this soil and climate are more
favorable to the tender varieties of fruit, and the greatest
growth of corn ; yet, it is contended that Rock and Fox
river Countries are better adapted to wheat and flax than
that on the Illinois ; with reasonable culture and atten
tion, both are so sure and bountiful, in their products, that
after all little or no difference will be perceived ; and what
little advantage one region may sometimes present over
the other, is found really to result much from superior
tillage and management. Fruits, flax, grain, cattle, and
sheep, in all parts, will do full as well, if not better, than in
Western New York and New England, as the climate
west is milder, and the seasons longer.
From Peru to Peoria the distance is 77 miles ; to
Pekin, 10 ; to Beardstown, 84 ; to Naples, 26 ; to Alton,
90; and to St. Louis, 24; in all, 311 miles from St.
78 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Louis to Peru ; and 100 more from there to Chicago; and
fare the whole distance is $5 to $9.
From St. Louis, Mo., there are regular Steam Packets, up
the Mississippi, to Keokuk, in Iowa ; to Galena, in Illinois,
to Potosi, in Wisconsin ; and from Galena and Dubuque
there are semi- weekly lines of Steamboats running to St.
Pauls and Stillwater, in Minnesota; with an occasional
small steamer running up the Wisconsin river, for many
miles, to the Lumber Region, in good stages of water.
After leaving St. Louis, for a voyage up the Missis
sippi, the first city we reach is HANNIBAL, in Missouri, a
place of near 4,000 population, with some fine blocks of
buildings, and considerable business; but it. palpably feels
and shows the blight of the unpaid, compulsory labor
system, which prevails in that State ; and, as in Kentucky
and Virginia, it surely prevents equal growth and enter
prise, to what exists in the Free States, on the opposite
sides of the great rivers; notwithstanding the Slave States
have the advantage, in most instances, in point of climate,
soil, and other natural facilities.
Still up about 13 miles is the lovely, neat, and thriving
city of QUINCY, on the Illinois side, with a good levee ; it
is the county-seat of Adams county, with a population of
over 6,000 ; with many superb buildings, green parks,
shaded walks ; and, as its name indicates, an intelligent
Yankee community ; every thing being done in real down
East style, however, with more of life and energy than is
found in towns of the same size in New England. Large
amounts of Pork are yearly packed here.
The county contains much very excellent land, well
watered, and many finely cultivated farms. There is still
some very good land here for sale, at government price.
Great quantities of corn, and other grain, are raised in this
county. Pop. 26,508; dwell. 4,459; farms, 2,294; m. 118.
Next, at some 40 miles above, is WARSAW, well located,
CHURCHVILLE KEOKUK LEE COUNTY. ' 79
on the river, in Hancock county. It has a good landing,
is doing considerable business, and surrounded by a good
farming country. Com and Pork are the principal articles
of export from this point, and amount to an extensive bu
siness. Pop. 14,652; dwell. 2,585 ; farms, 1,167 ;Wn. 43.
Directly opposite to here, in the state of Missouri, are
the villages of CHURCHVILLE and ALEXANDRIA, near the
mouth of Des Moines river. There is some business
done here in Pork packing ; but the land lies too low,
often inundated ; and the same drawback, by which Han
nibal suffers, also prevails here.
We now reach the state of Iowa, which lies west of the
Mississippi.
The first city is KEOKUK, six miles above Warsaw. It
is situated in Lee county, on the Mississippi, at the foot
of the Lower Rapids, and contains about 4,000 popula
tion, though it has but recently commenced growing. It
has a good landing and levee. Near here is the mouth of
the Des Moines river, up which valley a Canal is being
built, and is somewhat advanced.
In his book, of 1848, GEORGE B. SARGENT, Esq., says
of Lee county and Keokuk, (from the name of a distin
guished chief) :
" Lee is the southernmost county of the state ; it is well watered,
and the general quality of the soil is as good as any in Iowa.
Keokuk, the most thriving town, is the depot of a large extent of
back country, and must eventually make a place of great import
ance." ' There is a fine opportunity here for creating an avail
able water-power. A Railroad is in contemplation from this thriv
ing town, via Fairfield, Oskaloosa, Pella, and Monroe City, to Fort
DCS Moines. It is proposed, also, to construct a Railroad between
Keokuk and Dubuque, through Montrose, West Point, Mount
Pleasant, Washington, Iowa City, and Marion, and other towns."
" FORT MADISON, the seat of justice for Lee county, handsomely
situated on the Mississippi, about 12 miles above the head of the
Rapids [and 20 above Keokuk] , is quite an important town, having
1,200 to 1,500 inhabitants. It contains the State Penitentiary."
80 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
There is a fine agricultural district, with many thriving
villages and cultivated farms, along Des Moines river, with
considerable good water-power. There is some government
land for sale in this region. Population of Lee county,
18,860 ; dwellings, 3,252 ; farms, 1,350 ; manufactories, 78.
The fare from St. Louis to Keokuk is $2 ; thence to
Davenport and Eock Island, $2 ; and thence to Galena, $2.
From Keokuk boats proceed with some difficulty, in
low stages of water, up the Rapids, 12 miles, to MON
TROSE and NAUVOO — the former on the Iowa side, and the
latter, in Illinois, and distinguished as the theater of
Mormon troubles, some years ago ; but it has since been
purchased by a colony of French Communists, or Icarians,
who now occupy it, under Mons. CARET ; and they are said
to be a peaceful, intelligent, and industrious people.
It is in Hancock county, of which CARTHAGE is the
county-seat, where Joe Smith was killed. This is a good
county of land, both for crops and grazing. Pop. 14,652;
dwellings, 2,585; farms, 1,167 ; manufactures, 43.
For picturesque scenery and extent of prospect, from
the high elevation of the town, which is seen from a great
distance in every direction, with its beautifully sloping
surface down to the river, which here bends around in an
extended crescent, its several channels curving among
many luxuriant islands — there are few, if any, positions
on that long river, from St. Louis to St. Anthony's, that
surpass this ; whether we consider the place as viewed
from the country around, or the country which it over
looks ; and in either case, the enthusiastic admiration of
the observer is challenged to the highest degree.
There are three places, in the West, which the writer
has had the pleasure of beholding, that are more attract
ive and picturesque, to the taste of many, than most
others ; and they are Madison (Wisconsin) ; Dubuqiie
(Iowa) ; and Nauvoo (Illinois) ; while Lake Pepin and St
BURLINGTON DES MOINES COUNTY OQUAWKA. 81
Anthony's present scenery scarcely inferior to any loca
tion for beauty and variety.
After passing Fort Madison, we reach BURLINGTON, 46
miles above Keokuk, and county-seat ofDes Moines county.
It is, perhaps, the largest city in Iowa, numbering now
about 7,000 population ; with much wealth, intelligence,
and many good buildings. It has a, fine steamboat landing.
Mr. Sargent says of this county, in 1848, as follows:
" Des Moines was the earliest settled, with the exception of Du-
buque, and is at this time the most populous county in the state.
The seat of justice and principal town is Burlington, which was
formerly the Territorial seat of government. The first legislature
that convened in Iowa, met here in the fall of 1837."
Like most of the towns on this mighty river, situated
both upon and under the bluffs, this one too overlooks
much rich and delightful landscape, with fine improve
ments. Population of the county, 12,987; dwellings,
1,919 ; farms, 383 ; manufactories, 23.
Still 13 miles farther up, on the Illinois side, is the vil
lage of OQUAWKA, in Henderson county. It is a flourish
ing town of between 1,000 and 1,500 population. I quote
the following, written in 1837 :
" Oquawka, or Yellow Banks, is a town recently settled. It is
situated on the Mississippi river, about midway between the Keokuk
and Rock Island Rapids, and is the principal depot for freight be
tween these points ; the town is laid out in two sections on an ex
tensive scale ; the soil is sandy, and the surface gently undulating.
The site was sold by the original to the present proprietor for
$2,000, who last autumn sold one fourth of it for $24,000."
There's luck, for you.
We next reach the city of MUSCATINE, in Iowa (for
merly Bloomington), county-seat of Muscatine county. It
is now a city of nearly 5,000 population, doing an im
mense business, and sustained by an exceedingly fertile
arid well-cultivated country. No citv in Iowa is growing
82 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
faster than this. There is considerable wealth, and many
fine buildings and mills here.
In reaching this place, we passed the mouth of Iowa
river in Louisa county, containing fine land and timber,
with WAPELLO for the seat of justice ; a fine little town,
beautifully situated on the Iowa river. Population of
Louisa county, 4.939 ; dwellings, 842 ; farms, 388 ; manu
factories, 18.
Muscatine county is one of the finest in the state. In
speaking of this county, Mr. Sargent says :
" This county is situated in one of the great bends of the river,
and in point of location has many advantages. Bloomington [now
Muscatine], the seat of justice, is situated on the Mississippi; it
has an excellent landing for steamboats. Its peculiar situation in
the bend of the river gives it the advantages of both a river and
inland town. It contains about 1,800 inhabitants; a very exten
sive business is done here in produce."
People in the interior, and about the state capital,
IOWA CITY, come to Muscatine as their natural and most
convenient 'steamboat landing ; and emigrants, going into
that region of country, will always do well to land there.
Population of the county, 5,734 ; dwellings, 999 ; farms,
460 ; manufactories, 19.
Still farther up, thirty miles, is the romantic and flour
ishing city of DAVENPORT, county-seat of Scott county,
containing, at this time, about 3,000 population, with fine
steam mills, and other general elements of continued
growth. Population of Scott county, 5,986 ; dwellings,
991; farms, 384; manufactories, 19.
Mr. Sargent gives the following of Scott county :
" This is a rich and Avell-watered county, the Wabsipinecon river
bounding it on the north, and the Mississippi flowing along the
whole eastern and southern borders, a distance of about 40 miles.
" The lands bordering on the Mississippi are susceptible of cul
tivation almost to the waters edge, the bluffs rising gradually,
and forming the most desirable locations for farming purposes that
DAVENPORT ROCK ISLAND. 83
can be conceived. The beauty of the scenery, the quality of the
soil, and the apparent advantages of the situation, induced an
early settlement along the banks of tha river, where the farms
are now numerous and highly improved. In the interior, the land,
though mostly prairie, is 'high, gently rolling, and well adapted to
cultivation ; and owing to the facilities for procuring all necessary
timber from the Mississippi, is rapidly becoming dotted with
farms.
" It was in this county that Black Hawk built his village, when
the last of the Sacs and Foxes were driven from their homes on
llock river ; and from here his warriors started to commence the
war of 1832. The treaty, at the close of that war, by which the
first land in Iowa was acquired from the Indians, was concluded
at Fort Armstrong, by General Scott ; and in honor of that cele
brated officer, not so much on account of his military achievements
as for his agency in effecting this favorable treaty, Scott county
received its name. It is one of the smallest counties in the State,
not containing over twelve townships of land."
" DAVESTPORT, the seat of justice, is situated at the foot of a
bluff on the bank of the Mississippi. The scenery in its vicinity
is exceedingly picturesque, and long before the country was set
tled, had been noticed with admiration by passing travelers. Its
appearance at that time is thus described in a work published
several years ago :
" « At the foot of the Upper Rapids is one of the most pictu
resque scenes that we recollect to have beheld. On the western
side, a series of slopes are seen rising one above another for a con
siderable distance, until the background is terminated by a chain
of beautifully rounded hills, over the whole of which trees are
thinly scattered. On the other side of the river is a broad flat
plain of rich alluvion, several miles in length, and more than a
mile in breadth, and terminated by a range of wooded hills. On
this prairie is a small village of the Sac and Fox Indians, com
posed of rude lodges, scattered carelessly about.
" In front of the landscape, and presenting its most prominent
feature, is Rock Island, the western shore of which is washed by
the main current of the Mississippi, while the eastern side is sep
arated from the main-land by a narrow channel, which is ford-
able at low water. The southern point of the island is elevated
about forty feet above the ordinary level of the river, and is sup
ported by a perpendicular parapet of rock. Here stands Fort
Armstrong, a strong and very neat work, garrisoned by two com-
84 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
panies of United States troops ; and here will be one of the most
desirable sites for a town on the Upper Mississippi. Rock river,
which enters the Mississippi a few miles below the island, in Illi
nois, is a rapid stream, which may be easily rendered navigable,
and which affords abundant water-power for the propulsion of any
kind of machinery. The whole of this region is fruitful, health
ful, and agreeable to the eye."
"It is interesting to mark the changes that have taken place
since the above description was written. On the ' western side,'
with the ' beautifully rounded hills in the background,' now
stands Davenport. On the other side, which was then occupied by
the Sac and Fox village, is now the nourishing town of Rock
Island, in Illinois. Fort Armstrong is abandoned and in ruins.
All along the banks of the river are seen the marks of civilization
and improvement. But, though the scenery has lost some of its
wildness, it retains its original characteristics, and has gained
many pleasing features. The towns of Rock Island and Daven
port, the old Fort with its deserted block-houses, the Mississippi,
winding gracefully ab.ove and beloAV, Rock river branching off
through the woods, the forest-covered islands, the high, wooded
bluffs, and the rich, green prairies of Illinois, form a picture,
which, for beauty, variety, and extent, can hardly be surpassed.
"The healthfulness and beauty of the situation, together with
the facilities for hunting and fishing in its neighborhood, have
made this place the fashionable resort, during the summer months,
of large numbers of people, from St. Louis and other Southern
cities. It has hitherto been more noted on this account than as a
place of trade ; but the business of the town is now rapidly on the
increase."
" Davenport is the eastern terminus of the contemplated rail
road from the Mississippi to the Missouri river. It is 350 miles
above St. Louis, and 500 below the Falls of St. Anthony. It con
tains about 1,000 inhabitants."
" LE CLAIRK is the name of a new town which has lately
sprung into existence at the head of the Rapids, about fifteen miles
above Davenport. It is situated in a thickly settled part of the
county, and bids fair to become a pljR.ce of considerable import
ance."
" Clinton is a rich and well-watered county of land. In some
parts there is a scarcity of timber, which has prevented very ex
tensive settlements being made.
*' DE WITT, the seat of justice, is a thriving little village, beau-
ROCK ISLAND WATER-POWERS. 85
tifully situated on a high, rolling prairie, about three miles from
the Wabsipinecon river."
Population of Clinton county, 2,822 ; dwellings, 499 ;
farms, 306 ; manufactories, 10.
Opposite to Davenport, on the Illinois side, is the en
terprising and rapidly growing town of ROCK ISLAND,
county-seat of Rock Island county. It contains a popula
tion of between 3,'000 and 4,000 ; who, for intelligence,
liberal enterprise, and hospitality, are not surpassed by
any people in the West. From its immense, very con
venient water-powers, derived from both the Mississippi
and Rock rivers, and for its wider surface of level ground
between river and bluff, Rock Island possesses importance
and business facilities superior to Davenport ; though the
latter presents more beautiful and striking scenery to
arrest the attention of strangers, than the former place.
The rocky foot of the Island is nearly on a line between
these towns ; and causes a wider body of water than the
usual width of the river, giving here the appearance of a
small lake in the form of a slightly curved crescent.
The main and navigable channel of the river is on the
west side, while that on the east side is narrower, and has
been dammed so as to afford a splendid water-power
above, and a fine little harbor of still water below, making
a most commodious place for building and launching ves
sels, the bank having a very smooth and gentle slope.
The island, which thus divides the river, is one of the
most charming and comfortable rural retreats, in the warm
summer, that can well be desired ; the beautiful groves
commingling and interspreading their green branches to
gether, as if with a benevolent design to swing a spacious
umbrella or parasol, sufficient for all who might choose to
avail themselves of its convenience, in sun or in shower.
Many a delightful promenade in the vernal time has the
writer of this enjoyed in these sylvan shades, with bird-
8
86 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
carols above, leaving palaces and cultivated fields, to be
and think amid these quiet midsummer bowers, where all
is so still and serene, that Sleep and Rest seem almost to
have ordained these groves as their silent sanctuary.
The writer of "Illinois in 1837," thus speaks of this
place :
" Stephenson [now Rock Island] is situated on the Mississippi,
opposite the lower end of the Island, and two miles above the
mouth of Rock river, and three hundred and thirty above St. Louis.
It has twenty or thirty families, and several stores. The fine situ
ation of this place, its natural commercial advantages, and the
rapidly increasing population of the fertile country around it, on
both sides of the Mississippi, will, no doubt, render it in a short
time one of the most considerable towns in this part of Illinois.
"The Island is three miles long and half a mile wide, with
limestone rock for its base. Fort Armstrong is on its south end.
On two sides, the rock is twenty feet perpendicular in hight above
the water. A portion of the Island is cultivated."
Since the above was written, Stephenson (now Rock
Island) has grown to be a respectable city from its " twenty
or thirty families." Since then, too, a smart milling and
manufacturing town, called MOLINE, has sprung up, to near
a thousand population, at the head of the Island, on the
Illinois channel, taking advantage of the large water
power ; and on Rock river, about the same distance that
way, from Rock Island, another town of similar desci'ip
tion, named CAMDEN, has been built up, and uses the
water-power of that river ; so that probably there is not
another place in the State, or the Wes£, with so much
superior water-power, and so many facilities for using it,
as at this point, which must soon render Rock Island the
second manufacturing city in the State.
Beside, this high rocky Island, in the river, with steep,
high bluffs on both sides, point to this spot as the place
where, ere long, the Mississippi will be bridged — and, in
fact, the only place where such an undertaking is practica-
MISSISSIPPI RAILROAD CARROLL COUNTY. 87
ble ; and it is already beginning to be talked of with con
siderable earnestness.
Here, too, is the western or Mississippi terminus of the
"Rock Island, La Salle, and Chicago Railroad," upon
which the Engineers are already at work. All these
things combine to point out Rock Island as likely to be
come, at no distant day, the second city in Illinois.
While, on the opposite side of the river, the city of
Davenport will be likely to maintain a fair comparative
growth with her neighbor. Population of the county is
7,000.
One branch of the O'Rielly Telegraph line ends here ;
running from St. Louis, through Jacksonville, Rushville,
Quincy, and other towns in Illinois, crossing over to
Keokuk, in Iowa, and running up the river, through Bur
lington, Muscatine, Davenport, and crossing the river back
again, terminates in Rock Island. Most of the towns
throughout the West have good weekly newspapers;
while many have daily ones, as Galena, Springfield, Alton,
Dubuque, and others.
From Rock Island, we pass Moline, and run over the
rapids up the river eighteen miles, to Port Byron, passing
several smaller towns, or river-landings. This is the head
of the main rapids, but there is a slight rapid or broken
current still up to NEW ALBANY, some twenty-seven miles,
in Whitesides co. Pop. 5,361; dwell. 923; f. 404; man. 24.
In time of low water, these rapids retard the speed of
boats, and the upsticking rocks render navigation some
what dangerous, except the boats are carefully guided by
experienced pilots. By throwing out oblique wing dams,
at various places, many wrater-powers are obtained. Pop.
Carroll co. 4,586; dwell. 814; forms, 482; man. 17.
And now, we will pass ELIZABETH on the Iowa side,
SAVANNAH, in Carroll county, on the Illinois side, and
some other small towns.
88 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
When about ninety miles above Rock Island we reach
the mouth of Fevre river. And about six miles up that
river, we come to the rich, thriving, and enterprising city
of GALENA, one of the first, in size and business, in Illi
nois. It is the county-seat of Jo Daviess county, and
contains about 8.000 population.
This river has its name from an early French trader,
Le Fevre, and not from fever sickness, as some have sup
posed.
Jo Daviess is perhaps as rich in minerals as any other
county in the entire Mining District. Many men in this
county have made handsome fortunes in the lead business.
Still, portions of the county are well adapted to farming
business, and present many highly cultivated farms, with
good buildings. Population, 18,604; dwellings, 3,431;
farms, 1,370; manufactories, 279.
Ffteen miles from here, up the Mississippi, after passing
Bellvue, we reach Dubuque, the most beautifully located
city in Iowa, equal in business to any ; and is contested
only by Burlington for the largest population. This is
the heart and grand depot of the lead mining operations
for this State ; of which large and valuable quantities are
annually raised, smelted, and sent off down the river from
this place. It is the county-seat of Dubuque county. Of
this county and city, Mr. Sargent says :
" This county, which embraces the principal part of the mineral
region west of the river, was the earliest settled in the state ; a
party of French Canadians having established at the site of the
present town of Dubuque, about the year 1786, for the purpose of
trading with the Indians. The first discovery of lead ore in the
West is said to have been made in that vicinity by the wife of an
Indian chief."
This is a well-timbered county, but much of the land is
too broken for agricultural purposes. There are valuable
water-powers on Maquoketa river, some of which are ex-
POTOSI CASSVILLE LAND MONOPOLY. 89
tensively improved. Population of Dubuque county,
10,841; dwellings, 1,952; farms, 755 ; manufactories, 46.
"Dubuque, the seat of justice, beside being the great mineral
depot, is a place of much trade, and supplies a very extensive coun
try with goods. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, several whole
sale stores, and one of the largest hotels in the West. The U. S.
Land Office for the Northern District of Iowa, and the office of the
Surveyor General of Iowa and Wisconsin, are at this place."
Now the city of Dubuque contains near 7,000 population.
From here we pass up to POTOSI, a busy and growing
mining town, on the Wisconsin side, situated in " Snake
Hollow," near the mouth of Grant river, in Grant county.
It has a good steamboat landing, contains a population of
above 2,000 — an enterprising people — and is a place of
considerable business.
Some ten miles above, in the same county, is the dull
and dilapidated village of CASSVILLE. It occupies one of
the most sightly and attractive positions to be found on
the Mississippi, and has the natural resources to become
a wealthy and flourishing town. But it is cursed with the
Land-monopoly blight — of eager, miserly speculators, most
ly non-residents — like some other towns in Wisconsin.
There are those who prey like vampires upon the pros
perity of portions of that young, handsome, and noble
state ; some from whom we had a right to look for better
conduct — who have not only pursued a policy to prevent,
on their own part, the growth of some fine towns, but have
hindered others; and, to a degree, crippled the influence
and efforts of those who, with honorable enterprise, were
anxious and striving to promote the advancement of their
towns. There are some of this kind of moth and Shylock
beings scattered through the West, much to its detriment.
We need the true FREE SOIL and LAND LIMITATION doc
trines and measures to be realized and applied in such
portions of the West, before it can come up to its full and
90 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
destined dignity and power in the nation ; when it shall
be a country of real FREEMEN, who own their own homes,
manage their own shops, direct and enjoy their own labors
— a great community of FREEHOLDERS.
In the earlier history of this part of the West, the means
for traveling over it were far less comfortable and expedi
tious than at a later period. Then, the stage route from
Peoria to Galena was a long and circuitous one, but through
an excellent country of land, rich in natural resources for
agricultural purposes, being through the counties of Knox,
Putnam, Whitesides, Henry, Carroll, and into Jo Daviess.
The tourist, whom I have several times quoted from,
traveled over this route in 1833, and gives an account of
it. But before starting, he gives a description of Peoria,
now a rapidly growing city of some 7,000 population ;
and for good buildings, streets, shady walks, fences, and
other fine improvements, it is scarcely surpassed by any
city in the West ; while the intelligence, benevolence, and
accomplishments of the people would be creditable even
to Eastern cities of the same size. Here is an account of
the same place eighteen years ago :
" Peoria is situated at the lower end of an expansion of the Illi
nois river, forming a lake about twenty miles long by one and a
half in breadth. It ranks among the earliest French settlements
in the country ; but, while in other directions large towns of recent
foundation spring up, Peoria remains a wretched and ruinous col
lection of habitations ; a spell seems to rest on these early settle
ments of the French."
Our tourist had just undergone some vexatious trials by
stage in a journey from St. Louis, and probably was in no
very good humor to appreciate the fair side of many ob
jects at all. There is no finer section of country than that
which surrounds Peoria. At this place he took the stage
for Galena ; and his description of that route, as of the
Mineral region, is faithful and entertaining. We overtake
INDIAN WAR MINERAL DISTRICT. 91
him on the fourth day of his journey, and find him dis
coursing in this wise :
" On the fourth day of our journey north, when we were between
Rock and Apple rivers, we traveled over the scene of early Indian
devastations, on the outbreak of the late Indian war. The ordi
nary route lay lower down the country, near the Mississippi ; but,
on account of the swollen state'of the streams, we were obliged to
follow a trail, keeping the ridge of the elevated country, and trav
ersing a region which we thought unparalleled by any thing we
had previously seen, for the magnificence of its park scenery —
prairies sprinkled with forests."
Here were some five days consumed in performing a
journey (from Peoria to Galena), which is now accom
plished in less than two days. And that Indian ravaged
country, and park scenery so beautiful in its natural garb,
are now subdued by the plow, presenting many culti
vated farms and comfortable tenements. Our traveler
continues :
" On approaching Fevre river and the district of the Lead mines,
the face of the country began to change its character ; the soil
became poorer and more stony, broken by limestone knolls; and
from the summit of an elevated ridge, called Pilot Knob, the eye
ranges over a vast plain, stretching from the river to northward
and eastward, with the Platte Mounds, two most singular natural
eminences, heaving up from the level in the far distance.
" Galena, which lies below, is situated on Fevre river, about
seven miles from its junction with the Mississippi. It is the main
depot for the lead ore, collected in vast quantities from the neigh
boring country, and transported thence by steamboats to St. Louis.
The population of this Mining district is computed to be upward of
10,000."
Now, Galena itself contains nearly that number, and
Dubuque alone over half of it ; while the whole popula
tion of that district must be eight or nine times the number
it then contained. Pilot Knob is a high rocky cone, the
summit of which is of difficult access, but once attained,
the prospects, over both sides of the Mississippi, up and
92 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
down, which it affords, amply compensates for the toil ; it
stands in the angle formed by the confluence of the two
rivers ; the eye here commands a view over many little
towns and "diggins," far away in the three states of Iowa,
Illinois, and Wisconsin; and from its peculiar location,
many times serves as a convenient guide to the pilots nav
igating those rivers, whence it derives its name.
In those days it was a rare thing to find a steamboat
going to Prairie du Chien ; and the route was generally
performed by stage. Following is Mr. Latrobe's felicit
ous experience in performing the jaunt. Upon preparing
to leave Galena, he says :
" Our next halting place was to be at Prairie du Chien, 75 miles
distant to the north ; and having stored away our chattels, we
were happily extricated from the deep mud of Galena by two
strong horses, and began to jolt forward over the plain toward the
Platte Mounds, taking our morning meal at a snug farm — doubt
less the germ of an incipient city — called by the melodious name
of ' Hardscrabble.' "
This place is a " lead diggins," some twelve miles from
Galena ; and the " farm" at which they breakfasted, was
Col. CURTISS'S, whose hospitable widow still occupies it,
while several of her sons are settled in different states, as
preachers of the Gospel. It is now a pleasant, thriving
village, called Hazel Green, and is noted for the large
quantity of mineral which is annually raised from its
mines. He continues :
" Our route led us between the Platte Mounds, which, on nearer
approach, we found to consist of two regular moulded hills, con
nected by a band on which, midway, a small conical mound
rises. They all are evidently formed of limestone rock, masses
of which start up grotesquely from the surface. Several small
rivers rise in their vicinity. Our route was a solitary one, the
houses being few and far distant ; nor were such common-place
adventures as being benighted, wet to the skin, and sleeping in
comfortless quarters, at all wanting in our experience."
Those rocky elevations, which crop out from amid the
PLATTE MOUNDS RIVERS BELMONTE. 93
broad prairies, of which there are in fact three, two being
called Platte Mounds, over an hundred feet high, and the
other Belmonte Mound ; the two former stand about one
mile apart, like two huge outposts or bastions ; while on
a gently sloping ridge, which connects them, and over
which the stageroad passes, stands the other, a beautiful
center cone, almost as uniform in figure as the half of an
orange, of between 60 and 70 feet high, nearly to the
summit of which you may drive a horse and buggy, on
either side, from where we have a most magnificent and
charming view, far as the eye is able to reach in every
direction, over bright, waving, flowery prairies, cheerful
villages, and among the hills and valleys of the Missis
sippi, Fevre, Platte, Grant, and Peckatonica rivers, some
of which take their rise about these mounds.
" From the promontory gazed
The stranger, raptured and amazed."
In earlier times, before Wisconsin became a state, a
popular race-course, of mile heats, was established around
the base of this cone ; and perhaps a handsomer track,
with fairer opportunities for observation, was never com
bined on any other ground for the turf-sports. The Terri
torial Capital was established here at the village of Bel
monte ; and during the sessions of the legislature, I am
told the races were well patronized ; as the business and
interests of the Territory were few, the business of legis
lation was not as arduous as in the " Empire State" —
where so much of party-business and office-seeking enters
into the work of law-makers — those pioneer legislators
found more time that could be devoted to amusement ;
beside, sports of this character were more congenial to the
early settlers of that region, who were mostly emigrants
from Kentucky and Virginia.
Since the capital was removed to Madison, Belmonte
94 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
has not advanced very much, though it presents some
pleasant dwellings and fine farms.
I once, at this point, on an evening in the Autumn of
1849, had the opportunity of witnessing, in almost a rap
ture of amaze and delight, the waving prairies on fire, for
many miles around. I was driving in a buggy from
Platteville to Mineral Point, and reached Belmonte mound
just at the coming in of twilight. The evening was one
of those bland, mellowr seasons, usual in the time of Indian
Summer ; and on reaching the center mound — which lay
rolled up and shrouded in smoke, handsome as an apple-
dumpling all steaming from the kettle — and feeling
strongly tempted to know and see farther, I drove to near
its summit to take a leisure survey of the vast flame-
lighted and enchanting panorama flung out so profusely
by artist-nature ; the moon and stars peered but dimly
through the hazy air, adding mystic force to the scenes, in
the passing twilight.
Soon the fires began to kindle wider, and rise higher
from the long grass ; the gentle bjeeze increased to stronger
currents, and soon fanned the small flickering blaze into
fierce torrent-flames, which curled up and leaped along in
resistless splendor ; and like quickly raising the dark cur
tain from the luminous stage, the scenes before me were
suddenly changed, as if by the magician's wand, into one
boundless amphitheater, blazing from earth to heaven, and
sweeping the horizon round — columns of lurid flames,
sportively mounting up to the zenith, and dark clouds of
crimson smoke curling away and aloft, till they nearly
obscured stars and moon ; while the rushing, crashing
sounds, like roaring cataracts mingled with distant thun
ders, were almost deafening; danger, death, glared all
around — it screamed for victims — yet, notwithstanding
the imminent peril of prairie fires, one is loth — irresolute,
almost unable — to withdraw, or seek refuge.
PRAIRIE FIRES DEATH BY THEM. 95
I now thought of the spot on the banks of the bright
Kankakee, where, some years ago, two young persons —
betrothed lovers — perished in the prairie-flames ; their
crisped forms, near their horse, being found next day, by
a hunter. It is a rich, beautiful prairie — the river mur
mured along to leeward of them, but the flames out
stripped their fleet charger — upon which both were riding
— before he could reach the stream — why did they not
think — resolve — to set a " back fire," and take refuge on
the burned space !
But I am back to the mound ; will the remorseless
flames leap along the high grass that has grown luxuriantly
upon the sides, to the very pinnacle of this cone ? Surely,
the wind is this way, and my horse is already restive ;
aye, but I've a match in my pocket, and it is easily
lighted. Persons traveling in prairie regions should bear
this in mind. But see, that ocean of flame ; I must look,
still again ; even my little match has sent a lively current
dancing down the leeward slope ; and I am admonished to
follow it; but, in presence of such scenes, at such an
hour, the sensitive mind feels its frailty, and instinctively
awards the homage due to the majesty of his Creator,
from the creature.
Next morning I again visited this mound, rode over the
charred grass-stubble to its top ; the scene of so much
terrific brilliance but a few hours before ! now all was
changed ; the green-brown carpet was displaced by the
black-spread — the ravaging flames had consumed every
thing — black destruction sickened the heart in sadness —
the keenest, darkest emblem of desolation that can be
imagined — even the livid, confused glimmer, still almost
trembled around the eyes from last night's flames — such
as gleaming lights leave upon the optic nerve ; now, it
was painful to contemplate, for a moment, the same ex
panse, which, a few hours ago, it required an effort to
96
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
withdraw from its enchanting but fearful sublimity ; like
the giddy fascination of the serpent which holds its victim
in thrall till destruction overwhelms beyond escape, is the
charm of such spectacles ; it was as if the destroying an
gel flew abroad, crying in terror-tones, breathing tempests
of fire and smoke from his nostrils, that should awe and
paralyze ; I may not describe — my pen is tame and dark —
but would you realize such emotions — experience its
force —
" Oh, fly to the prairies, and in wonder gaze,
As o'er the grass sweeps the magnificent blaze ;
The earth cannot boast so magnificent a sight —
A continent blazing with oceans of light."
And now we reach PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, county-seat of
Crawford county, in Wisconsin. It has grown to be a
town of several hundred population, doing considerable
permanent business — a number of stores, taverns, and some
mechanic shops ; but, like several other towns, too much
of it is owned by a single individual, to allow it to grow
very rapidly. So much for the present aspect of the place ;
and I will now extract a description of it, given by a writer
who visited the place in 1838, on a trip to St. Pauls :
"Toward the close of the third day, after quitting Galena, we
reached the Wisconsin, a large river, flowing through a deep wooded
glen from the eastward. Summer and winter were here contend
ing for the mastery in the foliage of the desiduous forest trees on
its steep shores. Its channel forms the direct line of communica
tion, by boats, with the waters of the Nenah, a river of Green Bay,
in Lake Michigan — a short portage intervening.
' ' A ferry-boat conveyed us across the river, here flowing in a
rocky, deep, and shady valley. Six miles yet remained to Fort
Crawford, at Prairie du Chien ; and you may imagine our pleasure
in the hope of soon gaining quarters, where we might rest, after a
seven days' journey, during which we had hardly taken off our
clothes.
" At our arrival in Prairie du Chien, from the signs of the sea
son, one might have been inclined to augur badly for the prosecu-
PLATTEVILLE LANCASTER PRAIRIE DU CHIEN. 97
tion of our scheme of a farther ascent up the Mississippi, of three
hundred miles, to the [St. Anthony's] Falls.'
Now, almost daily, the steamboats run from Galena to
Prairie du Chien, in a few hours — some of them destined
on a run up the Wisconsin river, to the Lumber Country ;
and others, regular semi- weekly lines, for St. Pauls and
other parts of Minnesota ; of which boats Captain SMITH,
and Captains HARRIS, are popular and well-deserving own
ers and commanders. Boats run from Galena to St. Pauls
in from three to four days.
Beside, the stage route now to Prairie du Chien is far
more comfortable and expeditious than it then was ; passing
by the Platte Mounds and through the pleasant villages of
Hazel Green, Platteville, and Lancaster ; the latter, county-
seat of Grant county, Wisconsin ; and over this route we
now meet many well-cultiyated farms, comfortable build
ings, several other small towns, and a hospitable people.
He continues :
" The Prairie lies between the Mississippi — which here flows ia
a broad bed of many channels through a wilderness of islands —
and a long precipitous line of bluffs bordering the valley on the
east ; it forms a beautiful grassy meadow of six miles in length and
one or two broad ; it is bounded on the south by the Wisconsin.
Its name is, I believe, derived from that of an Indian chief.
" On the west, the view is limited by the long line of hights, rising
directly from the right bank of the Mississippi river, and only
broken by the glens which give outlet to the tributary streams.
From any of these hights most singular and extensive views are
gained, for ten or twelve miles, of the broad river, crowded by
grassy and wooded islands — many of them containing large ponds,
frequented by innumerable water-fowl — and of the prairie through
out its whole extent, with the village, the fort, the bluffs, and the
fertile farms along the base.
" Prairie du Chien is computed to be 600 miles from St. Louis,
by water, 300 from the Falls, and about 180 from Fort Howard, at
Green Bay, by way of Fox and Wisconsin rivers. But few In
dians, and those of the Menominee tribe, were in the vicinity. In the
9
98 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
course of the spring, during the season of floods, a steamboat as
cends the stream as far up as the St. Peter's river, to carry govern
ment stores to the two forts ; and the rest of the year the means
of communication are restricted to boats, sledges, and canoes.
" By employing one of these latter class, we now hope to secure
the means of proceeding ; and with considerable delay and difficulty
we contrived to get a number of Canadian boatmen, and a large,
roomy birch-bark canoe into our service. Meanwhile, our time
passed pleasantly enough in the society of the Colonel commanding
the post, with half a dozen other officers."
Following is an account of his voyage up to St. Antho
ny's Falls, and back again, he having set oil* up the river
on the 22d of October, 1833 :
*' Our purpose this evening was merely to get fairly afloat ; and
accordingly, after having paddled a few miles, we encamped upon
an island in the river, a little below the Painted Rocks, with a dry
starlight night as a good omen over our heads ; lulled by the howl
ing of the Indians, encamped in the vicinity, the barking of dogs,
and other sounds which betokened that we had not yet passed out
of the bounds of the farms on the prairie. It was computed that,
unless prevented by unforeseen accidents, we ought to reach the
Falls in six days. The whole of this time was however taken up
in advancing as far as Lake Pepin, one hundred and seventy
miles above the prairie, and nearly four more were necessary for
the attainment of our object. To give you the outline of our ex
cursion at once, I will mention, that we paddled forward by day,
and nightly sought some snug corner of the forest, either on the
main, or in the islands — pitched our tent, raised our fire, cooked
supper, sang, conversed, and looked at the stars till we were
sleepy, and then betook ourselves to our buffalo-robe couch till
dawn."
Some 75 or 80 miles above Prairie du Chien, we reach
the beautiful prairie called Prairie la Crosse, wThich was a
favorite ground with the Indians for playing ball and other
games. It is on the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi ; and
much of it is good farming land. The route from Prairie
du Chien to St. Croix lake passes this prairie. There are
already some settlements here, and business is increasing.
CAPTAIN CARVER PRATT7 S LANDING. 99
Still farther up, and on the west, or Minnesota side of
the river, is Wapasha Prairie ; this is a splendid prairie,
both for beauty and for agricultural purposes, and plenty
of timber near by. The river here is bordered by rugged
and precipitous rocks, with intervals in the ravines, form
ing convenient boat landings. Altogether, this is an at
tractive location.
It is somewhat noted as being the place where, in 1848,
the Winnebago Indians made a halt, and refused to remove
farther to the new grounds assigned them, beyond the Mis
sissippi. So great were their regrets at leaving this beau
tiful spot, their early hunting and council grounds, and the
grave-places of their fathers, that additional forces had to
be summoned from the Fort down at Crawford, to compel
them to leave according to their treaty.
A short distance alcove here is one of the places where
old Captain CARVER pitched his tent, in early days, when
trafficking with the Indians in this region. .
Some distance above this is the promising town-site of
Pratt* s Landing. It is located just below the foot of Lake
Pepin, and nearly opposite the mouth of Chipaway river ;
and, in time, will probably become a fine town.
** The whole distance to Lake Pepin, the mighty river flows
through a deep valley, of perhaps two miles average breadth,
among innumerable islands, and under steep bluffs, which rise fre
quently on both sides, with precipitous fronts to the hight of five
hundred feet. Their lower slopes near the river are mostly clothed
in oak forest, and many of the summits terminated by a picturesque
pile of highly-colored rock, of eighty feet or upward perpendicular.
Above and beyond this great channel, hollowed out in the country
for. the passage of the Father of Waters, the country on both sides
seems to be rolling prairie.
" The beauty of the scenery — though only the last coloring of
autumn lingered on the forests and prairies — quite took us by sur
prise ; and nothing can be more opposite than the impressions sug
gested by the scenery of the Mississippi above and the Mississippi
below its junction with the Missouri — here a scene of beauty and
100 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
romance, there a terribly monotonous, turbid, and swollen stream.
" Lake Pepiu is, in fact, nothing but a basin of the river, twenty
miles long and three broad. It is entirely without islands, and is
hemmed in by bold shores abounding with interesting details.
" From the upper end, it took us three days to reach Fort Snel-
ling at the junction of the St. Peter's river with the Mississippi ;
the character of the intervening scenery is interesting, but not so
much so as lower down. At the point of junction, however, it is
truly romantic. Up to our arrival at the last-mentioned Fort,
which lies seven miles below the Falls, the weather favored us in
an unhoped-for degree. During the week that we were the guests
of the gentlemen posted there, a few inclement days passed over us,
but the weather again held up so as to admit of our return between
the 8th of November and the 13th, 011 which latter day we entered
the Prairie du Chien, after an absence of three weeks. But in this
interval, much came before us which was highly interesting, and
my next shall go a little more into detail."
Here follows a chapter of more particular details of
that romantic and perilous trip : **
" Our pleasure at the resumption of a life of autumnal adven
ture, similar to last year's, though under different circumstances
and in another region, was considerable.
"I have mentioned, that uncertain as the occurrences of genial
weather might now be in this latitude, we had been encouraged to
hope that the delicious season, known by the name of the Indian
Summer, which ordinarily intervenes between the fall of the leaf
and the commencement of the severe winter of the north, might
yet come to our aid in the prosecution of our excursion. It is true,
the north wind blew while we were at Prairie de Chien, sprinkling
the hights with sleet, and the air appeared full of the water-fowl
pressing to the south — led by Him who teaches them to spread
their wings upon the keen blast, and seek a milder climate before
the winter come ; and though the blackbirds might be observed
collecting in vast flights, and then, having received the word to go
forth, rise at sunset, and by one commojn impulse, follow their
leaders in one narrow, continuous stream over the forest and prai
ries in the same direction ; and though the gorgeous foliage of
the painted forests, with its thousand hues of green, yellow, orange,
red, was shaken to the ground — still we Avere not deceived, but
before the lapse of many days we saw the sleet disappear — the
wind cease to agitate the river and the forest— the wild-fowl pause
INDIAN SUMMER. 101
in their passage, and, furling their pinions, alight by myriads
among the islands and marshes, and, as though by enchantment,
a season settle down upon the earth, which, for its peculiar beau
ties, might vie with the most poetical and delicious in the circle
of the year.
" To what shall we compare the Indian Summer ? To the last
bright and unexpected flare of a dying taper — to the sudden and
short-lived return to consciousness and apparent hope in one
stretched upon the bed of death, after the standers-by have deem
ed him gone — or to the warm, transient, but rosy glow which will
often steal over the snows of the distant Alps, after the sun is far
below the Jura, and after they have been seen rearing themselves
for a while, cold and ghastly white over the horizon ?
" During the Indian Summer, the air is calm. Glistening strings
of gossamer, woven by the aeronaut spider, stream across the land
scape — all nearer objects are seen through a dreamy atmosphere
filled with a rich golden haze, while the distance melts away in
violet and purple. The surface of the river, with its moving flood
of silver, reflects all objects and every color with matchless fidel
ity — the harsher tones of the rocks, of the deep-brown forests,
and of the yellow prairies appear so softened — the reflection of
their pale tints is so perfect, and such a similarity of color and
shade pervades the earth, the air, and the water, that all three
seemed blended together. The huge piles of bleached timber
which lie stranded in the shallows, or the canoes at a little dis
tance, seem suspended in air. Whenever the silence of the solitude
is broken, echoes seem to start from every side. Every distant
sound is musical ; and as you glide along you might believe you
were in a dream. The series of pictures presented by our even
advance upon the surface of the river, seen through this medium,
and under these circumstances, have left on my mind an impres
sion of beauty which will never be effaced.
" Whether we glided through the islands, with their extensive
flats covered with poplar and willow — the first in the series of
forest trees which will hereafter cover them — skirted the drowned
lands — paddled along the bright sand-bai'S, with their huge pile of
drift timber — rustled along the edge of some bright-yellow field of
reeds and Avild rice, startling the wild-fowl from their meal — or stem
med the deep and powerful current near the foot of the bluffs, the
scene presented to our passing admiration was always glorious and
beautiful.
" The steep line of rocky and similarly moulded summits which,
102 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
commencing with Cap de Tiger, excited our admiration in the ear
lier part of our course as they rose — a line of hills cut in twain,
from the right bank high into the mellowed haze, were pre-emi
nent for the beauty of their coloring and form, from the bright
vermilion-colored lichen which painted the bare rock at the sum
mit, to the strips of open, oak-sprinkled barrens at their feet.
The action of water upon the facjade of these seemingly castellated
hills — groove lying beneath groove, plainly indicated the gradual
formation of the broad and majestic channel by which the river
had for centuries been seeking to gain the level of the ocean.
" What would you have me describe to you ? Sunrise with its
pale, clear hues — or sunset with its deepening glories, as we saw
it evening after evening filling the broad valley with gold and pur
ple — both were matchlessly beautiful ; but the latter was the scene
of the greatest enchantment.
" If the days were thus delicious, many of the nights were not
the less so, and I have to exercise a species of self-control not to
attempt the description of each in detail. I might perhaps venture
to fill half a dozen lines upon that which we termed the Camp of
the Peak, where we lay nestled in a dense forest, overhung by one
of the noble summits I have mentioned above ; or one of those
spent on the islands ; or the Camp of the Bent Bough, but will at
all events postpone them till I see what is in advance, and mean
while give you a little idea of the people with whom we were as
sociated.
" Our progress for the first few days was far from being what
we had expected. The canoe, liable to injury at all times from its
extremely fragile nature, being merely a light frame-work, cover
ed with birch bark, and held together by cross splints, and to be
broken and snagged by running foul of objects in the shallows, or
to be strained by the great weight which it carried, and still more
by any accident in its daily conveyance to and from the shore on
the backs of the men — stood in need of constant repair.
" Beside, we soon found that most, if not all our Crapauds, as
these French Canadians are jocularly called, were in league with
the boat to keep us as long on the road as possible. First, because
they were rogues all. They had been born without consciences
and never had had the chance of acquiring them since. Secondly,
because they were paid by the day, and we were bound to feed
them as long as they were in our service. Thirdly, because they
saw that we were honest gentlemen, traveling for amusement and
instruction — novices in the arts of the voyagenrs, and of very dif-
CRAPAUDS THEIR SONGS. 103
ferent habits from the hard-grinding traders whom they usually
served, who portioned out their food to them by the square inch —
keeping their wages back, if they did not do their duty. You will
own that here was a little too much temptation thrown in the
way of men who profess no farther morality than would be of very
easy carriage among the savages by whom they were surrounded,
and no religion beyond Indian religion.
" Demaret acted as pilot, and plied the stern-paddle, as the boat
was his. He had made it with his own hands, and all his life had
been a voyageur. His qualifications and the natural turn he had
for this kind of life were so marked, that we found his very com
panions used to twit him with having ' been born with a piece of
birch bark in his hand.' He looked like no class of human beings
I ever saw, and his countenance, which was chiefly marked by the
width of his mouth, bore signs of both Spanish and Indian blood.
When he sang, he sang like a fox with his tail in a trap.
" Garde-Pied, an old Canadian, was our bowman. Then men
tion we Guillaume, fat and handsome — the farcour of the party,
the best singer, and, I believe in fact, the greatest rogue among
us, and the one who both set the roguery agoing and sustained it.
Alexandre, Rousseau, and Henry, were common-place rogues —
that is to say, they would be honest, if other people would be hon
est too. Pascal, a mulatto, held about the same tenets, though, I
recollect, he had a fragment of a conscience ; and, in mentioning
old Julian, a Neapolitan by birth, who had been taken by the
British — incorporated with the Anglo-Swiss regiment de Meuron
— seen service in India and subsequently in Canada — where he had
been discharged, and had turned Crapaud in his old age — I may
say that he was the best, the most sober, and most obliging man in
the party, and the only one in whom real confidence could be
placed.
"For the rest, they were all men who would dance from night
to morning at a Gumbo ball — sing profane or pastoral French
songs, hour after hour on the water — drink and smoke — cheat
their creditors, live for months in the woods — work like slaves
without grumbling when they could not help it — swim like otters
— maintain their French gayety of character on most occasions,
but grumble incessantly when they had nothing to grumble about.
They would feed like so many hungry wolves as long as there was
any thing to eat, knowing no medium ; and then bear the pinch of
hunger with the stoicism of the Indian, with whom most of them
had associated from infancy
104 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" They measured their way, not by mile?, nor leagues, but
by pipes, and would say — such a point is so many pipes distant.
They generally sang in their peculiar way for half an hour after
a halt, solo and chorus, winding up with an Indian yell, or the
exclamation, Hop ! Hop ! Sauvons-nous ! and would then continue
silently paddling with their short quick stroke, all following the
time indicated by the bowman, till the pipe was out, or till they
were tired ; when at a signal, they would throw their paddles
across the boat, give them a roll to clear the blade of the water,
and then rest for a few minutes.
" A compartment in the center of the canoe, in which our buf
falo robes and mats were eommodioxTsly arranged, was our ordi
nary couch. Here we lay in luxurious ease, reading and chatting
hour after hour.
" The first certain light which broke in upon us as to the-real
character of the strange race with whom we had to do — though
the singular conduct which we had remarked in them at the Prai
rie below, had given us warning — was early on the sixth day,
when approaching a lonely trading-house, near the remarkable
mountain called La J^Iontagne qui se trempe a V cau, scarce a
a hundred miles on our way ; when their long faces, shrugs, and
significant gestures gave token that something was wrong.
"In effect, we found that this devouring squad had— unaided
by us, as we had lived principally on water-fowl — actually, in the
course of six days, made away with the whole of the provisions
laid in with more than usual liberality for twelve days' consump
tion ! Upward of a hundred pounds of bacon, beside bread, and
potatoes, and beans in six days! Think of that! We had, to be
sure, noticed that they had brought with them a curiously -shaped
iron pot, originally, perhaps, a foot in depth ; but which, having
had the original bottom burned out, had been furnished by some
frontier tinker with a fresh one of such form and dimensions as
gave the renovated vessel an added profundity of six or eight
inches more. We had observed that this marvelous bowl was al
ways piled up to the very edge with provisions ; and that frequent
ly, when it was simmering and bubbling over the fire in the camp,
our rogues would stand round shrouding it from our too close ob
servation.
" If one or another of us approached, one or two of the Cra-
pauds would turn to us with an air of perfect famine and of the
greatest tribulation — and ejaculate, grand misers ! or, il fait
frait icit ! — giving us to understand, that while we considered our
FORT SPELLING INDIAN CAMP CROSS CAMP. 105
common position as one full of amusement, they deemed it to Ibe
one of uncommon trial.
" Moreover, we were sometimes awakened hours after supper,
when all had appeared to retire to rest for the night — it might be
about one in the morning — by loud talking and joyous sounds,
and peeping forth we might see that these unhappy mortals
were as brisk as lions ; sitting about the fire ; passing the joke
from one to another — by the help of long sharply-pointed sticks,
fishing up meat from the depths of that fathomless pot ; and mak
ing a very hearty meal, for which, as to our certain knowledge, a
hearty supper preceded it, and a no less hearty breakfast followed
it at dawn — we had unfortunately no name in our vocabulary.
Still, though it might cross our minds that they were a little lavish
of the provisions, yet we never dreamed of a famine before we
should reach Fort Snelling. However, there was now no doubt
about it, and it was in vain to murmur ; and here at the last
trading-post we had still to lay in fresh stock.
" Their songs were very interesting to us, in spite of the hor
rible French in which they were couched, and the nonsense they
contained ; as we detected in them many signs of their origin on
the plains, and in the vineyards of La belle France, though now
loaded with allusions to the peculiar scenery, manners, and cir
cumstances of the country to which they had been transplanted.
In many there was an air of Arcadian and pastoral simplicity
which was almost touching, at the same time that we knew that
the singers had no simplicity about them, and that their character
was much more that of the wolf than of the sheep. The airs were
not unfrequently truly melodious, and all were characteristic, and
chimed in well with our position.
" I may elsewhere have given you sundry assurances of the
delights of Indian Encampments in the forests ; from the pleasant
ideas that these may have conveyed I would take nothing. They
are many and great ; and far advanced as the season was, we were
yet alive to them for a month to come, even in weather that might
be deemed inclement elsewhere. Lest, however, you should ac
cuse me of a disposition to paint every thing couleur de rose, and
to throw dust both in my own eyes and those of my neighbors —
here follows a page of miseries. I remember one camp, which we
called Cross Camp, from the circumstance of all going wrong.
It was, I believe, the second in this excursion."
Here our tourist gives a long detailed account of the
106 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
many vexations and petty calamities which harassed
them in pitching their tent ; dressing, cooking, and upset
ting their supper ; tormented with smoke, wind, and ashes ;
with many other kindred difficulties, such as burning their
fingers and their viands, mislaying articles, etc. While
it seems, too, they had not selected the most felicitous
place for their supper-room, it being " a confined situation
among thickets of towering dry grass and brushwood."
Such were some of the incidents which led to the cogno
men of Cross Camp.
" Jaded and gloomy, -while the supper is cooking, you lie down
with a book in your hand, say, for example, ' Burton on Melan
choly,' which, by-the-by, was the only work, beside a BIBLE, that
we had with us. You stretch yourself on your blanket in your
corner of the tent, but find that beside lying on an unfortunate
slope which makes your heels rise higher than your head, there is
under you a stubborn knot of hard wood, which no coaxing of
yours can extract, and which nothing but a turn out, or application
of the ax, will rid you of."
" But, n'importe — the coffee is replaced — the beef-steaks get
thoroughly burned on one side — the ducks are pronounced to be
cooked because the waistcoat is reduced to a perfect cinder, and
because the birds insist upon taking fire. The 'medicine-chest,'
as we called our store-box, is brought out, and preparations for a
meal seriously attempted. It is soon found that notwithstanding
all losses and mischances there are still two things left, appetite
and abundance ; and though nothing, perhaps, is done with real
gastronomic nicety, yet, after a day spent in the open air, every
thing has a relish which no satice could give.
" As you have doubtless experienced, nothing predisposes to
complacent good humor so much as a satisfied appetite; and, by
the time supper is ended, and the moon has risen, and the bright
embers free from smoke are glowing in the wind, you are ready to
laugh together at every petty vexation. However, we learned
wisdom at the Cross Camp, and forthwith hired Rousseau to
look to our cooking at his own fire — keeping possession of the
coffee-pot alone, and henceforth our miseries were very sensibly
diminished.
" La Montague qui se trempe a V eau, lies about one hundred
LAKE PEPIN INDIANS. 107
miles above Prairie du Chien. It is remarkable as being com
pletely surrounded by the waters of the Mississippi. The Indians
have a tradition that on a certain day in the year it always sinks
a. little into the earth.
" We had passed the domains of the Winnebagoes, and were now
in the country inhabited by the tribe of the Dacota Indians, or
Sioux, one of the most numerous of the present day, inhabiting a
wide extent of country between the Missouri and Mississippi.
" Their villages, some of which are very strikingly situated —
that on Prairie a. V Jlil, for instance — were all deserted, as the
Indians were now absent on their hunting grounds. Many, how
ever, lingered on the river, and we now saw daily some of them
encamped on the banks in their commodious conical skin tents ;
and the ordinary silence of our encampments was frequently broken
by the distant howling of the Indian dogs, or the singing and yell
ing of the savages.
" Lake Pepin lay in our path, soon after the renewal of our
stock of provisions ; and the passage was looked forward to with
curiosity by us, and a species of awe by the Crapauds, as its sur
face is often agitated by storms, and many are the terrors of a long
spit of sand aJbout the center, which juts far into the lake from the
westward, under the name of the Pointe aux Sables.
" We had been detained nearly a whole day by an accident and
the illness of Demaret, a few miles below the southern extremity,
where the thermometer of Fahrenheit registered fifteen degrees
below the freezing point during the night, while the surface of the
river was darkened by a strong north wind ; however, we moved
forward to a point of yellow sand at the entrance toward evening,
and. finding that the old saying, ' sun down, wind down,' was likely
to be verified, prepared for the passage during the ensuing night.
By degrees the miniature billows with their crests of foam dimin
ished in size, and sunk into their bed, and an hour after sunset the
whole surface was as tranquil as a sheet of silver. Under such
auspicious circumstances, our men were induced to proceed, and
our frail canoe glided over the broad surface for some hours with
out interruption.
" The ordinary mode of navigation takes you across a bight in
the shore, to the foot of the bluffs which bound to the east, and
along them as far as the celebrated Cap a la Fille, or Maiden's
Rock, when an attempt is generally made to cross the broadest
part of the lake, weather the Pointe aux Sables, and get round a
rocky headland, which forms the division between the upper and
108 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
lower portions of Lake Pepin, after which five or six miles bring
you to the northern inlet.
" As we neared the base of the Maiden's Rock, a ruddy light
showed us that our acquaintances in the barge, with whom we had
come in contact more than once during the past week, and who had
passed us at our last halting place, had -been induced to lie to for
the night in the sheltered cove at its foot. A moment's halt was
allowed for an exchange of salutations, but in pursuance of our
object, we judged it advisable to attempt the traversee, as the wind
gave notice of again springing up ; and proceeding, we left them to
their repose, and directed the bow of the canoe toward the dark
Cape on the opposite shore. Meanwhile, the sky clouded up ; the
moon and stars peeped by fits through the fissures in the fleecy
clouds, the waves began to rise, and to heave the brittle vessel un
der us in an unwonted manner, straining her so as to render con
stant attention to baling necessary.
" However, the energies of the Crapauds, though their leader was
disabled by the fever and ague, were excited ; and with an occa
sional yell and cry of encouragement, we perceived that we were
making advance. Long, however, as the wind was against us, we
saw the dreaded Pointe aux Sables gleaming to the leeward ; and
it was not without thankfulness, that, after upward of an hour's
hard struggle and unremitted labor, we weathered the great Cape,
and got into calmer water. Nous sommes sauvis ! Nous sommcs
sauvi-s ! Maintenant la pipe ! said our old bowman, as he threw
down his paddle behind the bow, and gave the signal for a short
repose.
" The termination of another hour found us stemming the cur
rent of the Mississippi again, as it poured into the lake amid pop
lar islands, on one of which we speedily encamped. I have men
tioned that from hence three days were occupied in reaching Fort
Snelling. The wind turning more to the southward, gave us an
opportunity of rigging and hoisting a blanket as a sail, under
shadow and favor of which our Crapauds smoked their pipes in
luxurious idleness. For all the wonders and remarkable points on
the passage — the entrance of the river St. Croix, La Grange, Pointe
des Pins, Bois de Mcdecine, etc., I must refer you to Schoolcraft,
Carver, and other writers on this distant country. We passed more
than one permanent village of the Sioux, now 'all deserted ; the
houses were made of rude poles covered with pieces of oak bark,
and swarmed with fleas, numerous as the dust. In their vicinity
were seen the dead bodies of their chiefs, wasting in the air, in-
INDIAN CAMPS AND SICKNESS. 109
closed in rude wooden cases, elevated upon scaffolds raised eight or
ten feet abovtf the surface.
" Many of the Sioux still lingered on the river, and would have
perhaps given us more of their presence at our encampments than
might have been agreeable, had we halted in their immediate vi
cinity. On one occasion a large canoe full of Indians came to us
just as we had landed, with every disposition to do as they had
done before — watch our movements, and wait till we should ask
them to partake of our hospitality — but all of a sudden, by com
mon consent, they stole back to their canoe, and slipped down the
stream. They had seen Demaret brought on shore, wrapped up
in his blankets, and placed before the fire, sick and helpless ; and
it was probable that the idea of Cholera, from which the Indians
on the Mississippi had suffered greatly the preceding year, had
occurred to them. A large number were encamped on the oppo
site side all night, where they whooped and whistled around their
tents ; but not one could be lured to venture near us. The follow
ing day — it was that of our arrival at the Fort — we came upon a
very large encampment of the same tribe, stretching along the
forested shore, just above a range of beautiful white sandstone ac
clivities. There may have been thirty or forty lodges ; among
which we landed, partly from curiosity, and partly to barter for
Indian pipes and ornaments, of which my companion was desirous
of making a collection.
" We found very few males in the lodges, but squaws, children,
and dogs in great numbers, in every hut."
Our traveler here gives a long and sad description of
the Indians, their lodges, the " old squaws," and a visit,
particularly, to one lodge where were some sick children,
with a motley group around them, and all looked to him
for medical aid, to the relief of the sick. He finally com
mences the duties of the doctor :
" On my right sat an old Sioux warrior, in his breech-cloth,
moccasins, and dingy blanket. He was, like many of his tribe,
finely modeled, and with an agreeable cast of face. To the left
was seated a young girl, about ten years old, garbed in the dark
blue petticoat commonly worn by her sex, with a blanket over her
shoulders. Her neighbor was a male, about the same age. Three
aged squaws, including my conductress, filled up the remainder of
10
110 WESTER^ PORTRAITURE.
the space round the small heap of red embers, which, with their
white ashes, occupied the center. *
" Though all the three females were patterns of ugliness, both in
persons and physiognomy, I think that the old squaw who enticed
me hither bore away the palm ; and there we sat, crowded together
with our noses over the little fire. Sufficient light was afforded
from the top of the cone, where an aperture was left to give issue
to the smoke, and by divers cracks in the skins, to see this ; and
moreover that the wigwam contained nothing beyond the most or
dinary Indian utensils and furniture.
" A most affectionate grunt and shake of the hand passed be
tween the old Sioux, the squaws, and myself, the instant I seated
myself; and then, as a matter of course, the small redstone pipe
was filled with tobacco and kinnickkinick, lighted, and passed
round from one to another.
" After a brief silence, followed by a few explanatory words, as
I suppose, between the elders of the party, the Indian turned to
me, made me a speech, accompanied with appropriate gestures.
He pointed to the girl, and then to the boy, both of whom were
evidently in poor health, and I was now not slow in ascertaining
the purpose of my being brought here — which was neither more
nor less than to act the doctor and to cure his family. This,
though I am no physicianer, set me perfectly at ease, as we had
medicine in plenty in the canoe, at his service, and that of the
strongest and most efficacious kind, if properly administered.
After listening with becoming gravity, I grunted in the most ap
proved fashion, to signify my perfect intelligence and readiness to
do as he desired, and then proceeded to examine my patients. One
thing you may depend upon. I resolved, if I could do them no
good, not to do the poor creatures any harm.
" During an interval of utter silence I felt the pulses of the
two children — opened their mouths and peeped at their tongues,
and speedily satisfied myself that they must have the fever and
ague, that being the common disease of the season and country.
Hereupon, turning to the warrior, I gave a grunt of interrogation,
being one which ascends the scale of about half an octave ; and
followed it by pointing to the children and giving a violent shiver,
thereby hazarding my opinion as to the kind of malady by which
they were afflicted.
" The general satisfaction which this announcement gave, pro
duced a chorus of sounds such as might proceed from the well-
furnished sty of a Pennsylvania farmer on the introduction of a
GREAT MEDICINE THE FORT. Ill
plentiful supply of squashes ; and, emboldened by my success, I
proceeded forthwith, by aid of a calabash of water and an ordinary
degree of assurance, to prescribe and administer sundry harmless
pills which I fetched from the canoe> at the rate of two to the girl
and three to the boy ; and after signifying to the old warrior and
his squaws that I had done what I could, but that they must look
to the Great Spirit for cure, and giving them a few biscuits, I left
them amid a clamor of sounds which doubtless were meant for
blessings and as marks of admiration, though they would hardly
have been interpreted as such in a civilized country.
" The curiosity of Pourtales and M'Euen to know my adventures,
was met by a corresponding air of mystery on my part, such as
did credit to my newly acquired Indian title of The Great Medi
cine.
" Our visit terminated, and we proceeded. Toward evening we
descried the long looked-for Fort, with its towers and imposing
extent of wall crowning the high angular bluif, at whose base the
upper branch of the St. Peter's enters the Mississippi ; and paddling
swiftly up the lower channel, a large triangular island separating
the two, we landed and were most hospitably received by the offi
cers on duty. We were forthwith furnished with quarters in the
Fort above, while the Crapauds pitched a tent under the shadow
of the bluff by the water's edge, got their canoe on shore, and set
their enormous pot a boiling forthwith. I believe they never saw
the bottom of it, nor suffered it to cool during the whole week of
their stay. They did not forget, whenever we visited them, to talk
a great deal about misere ! at the same time that they had nothing
to do but what they loved best— eat and sleep. They are a singu
lar race, half Indian, half French, with a dash of the prairie
wolf.
" Meanwhile we had been admitted to full participation in the
rights of hospitality within the Fort, and were furnished with
every needful accommodation. We spread our buffalo skins and
blankets in an unoccupied apartment, and slept in quiet; not for
getting however in the course of the evening to ascend one of the
bastions, and listen to the roar of the Great Falls rising on the
night air at a distance of seven miles."
MINNESOTA.
BEFORE entering into the history, boundaries, business,
towns, etc., of this young Territory, I leave our traveler to
finish his story ; when more minute particulars will be
furnished :
" The military post at the junction of the St. Peter's river with
the main stream, is the most northerly station maintained by the
United States in the valley of the Mississippi. The Military Re
servation on which it lies, purchased by Government from the
Sioux, forms a parallelogram of eighteen miles by seven. The
Fortification has much more pretension both to regularity of de
sign and picturesque situation than any of its fellows along the
frontier — the outer wall inclosing a lozenge-shaped area of con
siderable size, surrounded by the barracks, officers' quarters, and
other offices. The magazine and round bastion being at one extrem
ity, and the commander's house at the other nearest the angle of
the rock overlooking both rivers. Only three companies were sta
tioned here at the time of our visit. A picturesque octagonal
tower stands at the termination of the southern line of wall over
looking the sloping ascent from the St. Peter's. The height of the
foundation above the rivers may be upward of one hundred feet.
It has an appearance of strength which is hardly confirmed on a
nearer survey ; and the impression you carry away is, that for the
purposes of Indian warfare it is far too strong and important a
work, while its position would not avail it much in an attack from
regular troops, as the interior is commanded from a rise on the
land immediately behind. The idea is farther suggested, that the
strong stone wall was rather erected to keep the garrison in, than
the enemy out. Though adapted for mounting cannon if needful,
113
the walls were unprovided with those weapons ; and the only piece
of ordnance that I detected out of the magazine, was an old churn
thrust gallantly through one of the embrasures. We were how
ever far from complaining of the extra expense and taste which
the worthy officer whose name it bears had expended on the erec
tion of Fort Snelling, as it is in every way an addition to the
sublime landscape in which it is situated.
" The view from the angle of the wall at the extreme point, is
highly romantic. To your left lies the broad deep valley of the
Mississippi, with the opposite hights descending precipitously to
the water's edge ; and to the right and in front, the St. Peter's, a
broad stream, worthy from its size, length of course, and the num
ber of tributaries which it receives, to be called the Western Fork
of the Great River itself. It is seen flowing through a compara
tively open vale, with swelling hills and intermingling forest and
prairie, for many miles above the point of junction. As it ap
proaches the Mississippi, the volume of water divides into two
branches ; that on the right, pursues the general course of the
river above, and enters the Mississippi at an angle of perhaps fifty
degrees directly under the walls of the Fort ; while the Bother,
keeping to the base of the high prairie lands which rise above it
to a notable summit called the Pilot Knob, enters the Mississippi
lower down. The triangular island thus formed between the
rivers lies immediately under the Fort. Its level surface is par
tially cultivated, but toward the lower extremity thickly covered
with wood. Beyond their junction, the united streams are seen
gliding at the base of high cliffs into the narrowing valley below.
Forests, and these of the most picturesque character, interspersed
with strips of prairie, clothe a great portion of the distant view.
" A little cluster of trading houses is situated on the right
branch of the St. Peter's, and here and there on the shores, and
on the island, you saw the dark conicle tents of the wandering
Sioux. A more striking scene we had not met with in the United
States, and hardly any that could vie with it for picturesque
beauty, even at this unfavorable season. What must it be in
spring when the forests put forth their young leaves, and the prai
ries are clothed in verdure ! From the summit of the Pilot Knob,
surmounted by the tomb of an Indian Chief, the view is most ex
tended and interesting; comprising both rivers before and after
their junction, the Fort in all its details, and a wide stretch of
level country to the north and west beyond the Great Falls. The
Falls were of course a main object of our curiosity, but for a few
114 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
days we were prevented from visiting them by very rough and wet
weather.
" In the meantime we were daily in the lodges of the Sioux and
the Chippewas encamped near the Reservation or near the trading
houses."
The Territory of Minnesota, at this time, probably does
not contain less than 9,000 to 10,000 population. And the
village of St. Pauls, probably has 1,500 ; Stillwater, 1,200 ;
Crow Wing, 500; St. Anthony, 700; Mendota, 200; St.
Croix, 300 ; there are other smaller towns. It is not
claimed that the above are precise statements of the pop
ulation, but as nearly as can be obtained. In 1849 the
population of this territory was 4,780.
Minnesota is rapidly filling up, a large portion being
from Maine, the rugged climate of that state somewhat
resembling that of the Territory.
ST. PAULS is situated on the north bank of the Missis
sippi, near the head of navigation, 15 miles by water, and
8 miles by land, below the Falls of St. Anthony. The
central portion of the town is a level, beautiful plateau,
terminating on the river in a precipitous bluff about 80
feet high. The bluff recedes from the river at the upper
and lower end of the town, forming two landings.
On the west bank of the Mississippi, and below the
mouth of St. Peter's river, is the village of Mendota,
formerly St. Peters, and for some time was occupied by
the American Fur Company. Its location is favorable to
command the trade of the northwestern rivers. This is a
delightful country in point of health, scenery, wild fruits ;
and many parts for farming. There are some fine lakes
west and north of this point.
I now resume Mr. Latrobe's narrative :
" In mentioning the details of the landscape at St. Peter's, I
have omitted one feature in it, which is peculiar. The upper stra
tum of the country, in which these rivers have grooved their deep
channels, consists of beds of limestone resting upon thick layers
HOUSE OP STONE LAUGHING WATER. 115
of the purest and whitest sand imaginable ; and wherever the ac
clivity is precipitous and the latter are exposed to the air, they
form, from their brilliant hue, a remarkable trait of the land
scenery.
" A few miles below the Fort, a small subterraneous rivulet
comes rippling out of a cavern, called by the Indians the House
of Stone. The cave may be traced for a very considerable dis
tance into the bowels of the earth, under the limestone, and al
together within the sand bed, and a more beautiful sight than that
presented by the snow-white walls, roof, and flooring, with the
crystal stream meandering over the floor, I have rarely seen. No
mound or tumulus is known to exist in this neighborhood, but
there is a most singular mass of sandstone lying on the open Prai
rie, about twenty-five miles to the southeast of Fort Snelling. It
is perfectly isolated, eighty feet high, with a base line of from
thirty to forty feet in length. It tapers irregularly, and has an
area of about three feet square on the summit as far as can be
guessed, as it is inaccessible. It is called the Standing Stone by
the Indians, and considered as a ' Great Medicine.'
" But the Falls of St. Anthony ! The first fine day we turned
our faces in the direction of the Hahamina ! the Laughing TVater,
as the Indian language, rich in the poetry of nature, styles this
remote cataract — for cataract it is, despite its insignificant hight,
compared with others. Here the Mississippi — after a course of
three hundred miles, draining a dreary region, where it would ap
pear that a species of chaos still reigns, and the land and water
are not yet fairly separated from each other — commences the
second great division of its remaining course of upward of two
thousand miles to the ocean.
" The surface of the river at the St. Peter's has been calculated
to be elevated 680 feet above the tide-water. Above the Falls, the
breadth is between five and six hundred yards, and below, it con
tracts in a narrow gorge to one third that width, till it reaches the
Fork, and forms its junction with the St. Peter's. The long line
of the Fall, which is in all its parts more or less interrupted by
the fragments of the limestone which fall down as the force of the
water undermines them by the removal of the soft sand under
neath, is farther interrupted near the left bank by an island cov
ered with trees. A second island stands in the river, in advance
of the right hand divison of the Fall, with steep perpendicular
sides, and bastion-like angles, resulting from the peculiar geo
logical formation of the district.
116 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" Though I admit that the whole had the appearance of an im
mense wear, and that the open face of the country for many miles
round, can hardly lay claim to picturesque beauty, yet the vast
size of the body of water thus seen leaping from a higher to a
lower region, rendered the scene truly majestic. It is still the
mighty Mississippi !"
The dimensions of the Falls at St. Anthony have been
variously stated ; but the survey, by the officers at Fort
Snelling, gives the following : From the west bank to the
island, 634 feet ; across the island, 276 ; the east fall, 300
• — total width of river, 1,210 feet. The perpendicular fall
varies from 25 to 30 feet.
It is said that Father Hennepin gave the name to these
falls. Lieutenant Pike, when he explored the river, esti
mated the fall to be 58 feet in a distance of 260 rods port
age ; . and to the foot of the rapids, a distance of several
miles, he states the entire fall to be about 100 feet.
At this point there are nearly a dozen saw-mills; but
they are scarcely able to supply the demand for lumber.
But the number of mills are increasing every year.
The falls here, like much of the country, has its start
ling legendary. The Indians tell you, that a young Dacota
mother, goaded by jealousy — the father of her children
having taken another wife — unmoored her canoe above the
Great Fall, and seating herself and her children in it, sang
her death-song, and went over the foaming acclivity in the
face and amid the shrieks of her tribe. And often, the In
dian believes — when the nights are calm, and the sky serene,
and the dew-drops are hanging motionless on the weeping
birch on the island, and the country is vibrating to the
murmur of the cataract — that then the misty form of the
young mother may be seen moving down the current, while
her song is heard mingling its sad notes with the lulling
sound of " the Laughing Water !"
The village of St. Anthony is a beautiful site, on the
ST. CROIX LAKE AND RIVER TOWNS. 117
east bank of the river, at the head of the cataract or oppo
site to it ; and is a flourishing place, and must become a
a town of considerable business ; as a very good portion
of Minnesota, for farming purposes, lies east of this place
and St. Pauls, and northeast toward Stillwater.
Some 20 or 30 miles below the Falls of St. Anthony,
the river St. Croix empties into the Mississippi. At the
junction of these rivers there is a thriving and handsome
little town growing up, called Point Douglass.
This river also expands into a lake, not quite as wTide or
long as Lake Pepin, while its banks are not as high and
steep.
Above, midway toward the head of this lake, on the east
side, in Wisconsin, at the mouth of Willow river, is located
the promising town of Buena Vista. Here the U. S. Gov
ernment have opened a Land Office.
On the opposite side of the lake, a little farther up, is
the thriving town of Stillwater, in Minnesota. Still higher
up, is the village of St. Croix, with some other lesser ones.
These towns are all growing rapidly, from emigration.
Steamers from Galena generally run up the St. Croix
to those towns, then down to the forks again, and head up
the river for St. Pauls, Fort Snelling, St. Anthony's, and
Mendota ; between the two last named towns, the St. Pe
ter's, from the west, enters the Mississippi. There is little
settlement up this river, as the lands are still mostly in
the possession of Indians.
" But we must turn our faces southward, for the Indian Summer
is past — the lagging files of the water-fowl are scudding before the
wind, and another week may curb the mighty Mississippi with a
bridle of ice. Another week, in fact, did so ; but ere that, paddle,
current, and sail had carried us far on our way south, as you may
now hear."
On the evening of the second day our voyageurs reached
Lake Pepin, and found it in so much of a storm, they
118 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
thought it best to lie by on their oars awhile, and view the
scenery about Maiden's Rock.
' ' On the opposite side of the troubled sheet of water in the mid
dle ground, over which the rock impended, the range of western
bluffs was seen to incline mland, behind the Pointe aux Sables,
leaving a wide tract of country, partly forest and partly prairie,
between their foot and the shore. A singularly conical and prom
inent hill rose abruptly from the middle of this plain. Around
this detached eminence, which, swathed as it was in the smoke of
the burning prairies beyond, seemed like a volcano ; the fire had
been concentrating itself during the earlier hours of the day, now
advancing in one direction till checked by a dense tract of forest
or a river, and then rushing on in another one, rolling over the
summit or the base of the mountains. At sunset, the flame seemed
to have gathered full strength and to have reached a long tract of
level grassy prairie nearer the shore, upon which it then swiftly
advanced, leaving a black path in its trail."
An interesting Indian legend gives name to "Maiden's
Rock," in Lake Pepin. It is a craggy peak in some places,
perpendicular in others, and many portions covered with
forest trees. There is one high perpendicular precipice,
from which, as the Indian story goes, an Indian girl, cross
ed in love, and named " Dark Day," took the leap, Sappho-
like, which alike cures love and ambition ; and in the same
act which ended her days she perpetuated her memory —
she secured an everlasting monument, more lofty and en
during than the Egyptian pyramids ; Maiden's Rock lasts
with the world.
"The following morning brought no cessation of the gale; and
as, from our place of retreat, we could see that the light fresh
waters of Lake Pepin were running and boiling like a miniature
sea, so that no frail bark like ours could live — we unanimously felt
disposed to take the rest and leisure thus given, and remain where
we were. Nothing could suit the Crapauds better. It was one
day more to their pay — the provision-bag and the whiskey-keg
were full — and a rare day they made of it !
"The summit of the perpendicular rock, which terminates the
LAKE PEPIN BLACK POINT. 119
Cap a la Fille, rises about five hundred feet over the lake, and the
leap may be • nearly one third of the whole hight. As we looked
forth from the summit early in the morning, across the troubled .
surface of the lake, of which it commands a wide VICAV, a dense
column of smoke from the opposite side gave us intimation that the
prairies were on fire."
One peculiarity of this lake is, that it has no islands, but
is a plain, uninterrupted sheet of water, which freezes to a
great thickness in the winter ; and is the only place in the
Mississippi, all the way from the Falls to the Gulf, where
we may not at all times see islands in the river. Most of
the shores of this lake are high precipitous rocks, yet there
are a few instances where they slope gradually to the water.
The lands lying about Lake Pepin, in their general ap
pearance and adaptation to farming purposes, particularly
that of Stock raising and Dairy business, are seldom sur
passed. The Indian titles will no doubt soon be extin
guished, or canceled, and the Indians removed ; so that this
beautiful region will soon be brought into the market for
sale, and undoubtedly will find many purchasers ; though,
it is more likely that most persons, acquainted with the
facts and locations, will see better inducements to buy and
settle upon the large, superior tracts of lands in Illinois,
Wisconsin, and Iowa, which are coming into market along
the many lines of Railroads that are being rapidly built in
those states.
" The close of another short day, during the course of which
we glided on with the combined force of paddle and current,
through the most picturesque division of the whole river, saw us
encamping in the forest, near the recent battle ground at the mouth
of the Bad Axe river, within thirty miles of Prairie du Chien. We
had landed here in ascending, and seen the bones of the poor mis
guided Indians, who, driven to extremity, perishing with famine,
encumbered with their wives and children, hotly pursued by both
the regular troops and the militia — here tried to cover the retreat
of their families over the deep, broad, island-chequered bosom of
the Mississippi. The Warrior, an armed steamboat, which had
120 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
been sent up the river for the purpose, opposed the passage, and
some hundred men, women, and children were shot down — some
on the bank — some in the marshes — others in the act of swim
ming ; and we saw proof enough that neither age nor sex had
been spared."
" The sympathy I feel for the poor benighted Indian, the child
of impulse and passion — cozened, mystified, driven to the wall,
and degraded far below his natural degradation, by his communion
with those who call themselves Christians, and pride themselves
upon superiority of gifts and advantages, rises above the horror
excited by the details of their savage cruelty, when their wrath is
once excited ; and makes me inclined to consider them as the ag
grieved party. The Winnebagoes, true to the character of treach
ery they had long borne, turned their knives and towahawks
against their former allies, as soon as they saw that the fortune of
the unequal war was against them, and ranged themselves on the
side of the whites. After the Battle of the Bad Axe, they traced the
old chief Black Hawk to his retreat, and gave him and his sons up
to the Government. It is hardly necessary to repeat that the
prisoners were kindly treated ; the same policy which led the Gov
ernment to confine the chief for a while, led it afterward to bring
him to the great cities of the East — give him his liberty, with his
companions — and send him back to his humbled tribe loaded with
presents."
" Our encampment in the forests, near the Bad Axe, on the
night between the 12th and 13th November, was rendered remark
able by one circumstance.
" The night was calm ; the wind, which had been northerly the
foregoing day, chopped about early in the morning to the south,
and blew with some force with a clear sky. Early, it might be
between two and three o'clock, the whole heavens became grad
ually covered with/a//mg- stars, increasing in number till the sky
had the appearance of being filled with luminous flakes of snow.
This meteoric rain continued to pour down till the light of the
coming day rendered it mvisible. Millions must have shone and
disappeared during the course of these three or four hours. They
appeared to proceed from a point in the heavens, about fourteen
degrees to the southeast of the zenith, and thence fell in curved
lines to every point of the compass. Whether they remained visi
ble down to the horizon or not, we do not know. There were some
in the shower of larger size than the others, but for the greater
part, they appeared as stars of the first or second magnitude.
FALLING STARS BOLIDES. 121
Their course in falling was interrupted, like the luminous flight of
the fire fly. This celestial appearance bore precisely the charac
ter of the phenomenon recorded, as having been witnessed on the
12th Nov., 1799, by Humboldt and his companions, at Cumana, in
South America, where the heavens appeared filled with these bolides
for four entire hours in the early part of the morning; and they
were subsequently discovered to have been visible simultaneously
in Labrador, Greenland, and Germany — over a space equal to
921,000 square leagues. Like that, the extent over the earth's
surface, on which the meteoric shower which I am more particu
larly describing was observed, was extraordinarily great. At the
same hour that it was visible in our camp, it was seen in equal
splendor throughout the whole of the valley of the Mississippi,
in all the Atlantic cities, in Canada, and in the middle of the At
lantic ; how far farther I am not able to discover."
This phenomenon was noticed by the Indians, and re
garded by them as a favorable omen in regard to the
winter's hunt, and next year's crops ; and led them to a
sudden and devout worship of the Great Spirit — to be
sure, in their rude way.
** Early on the evening of this day, we returned, blithely sing
ing our Chanson de retour, down the river, to the little village of
Prairie du Chien, where a knot of wives, daughters, and children,
awaited the return of our men ; and after a few moments spent by
them in the ordinary compliments, kissing, and embraces, we were
conducted to the landing of the Fort, and there welcomed as old
friends."
Here our tourist recites some grotesque and somewhat
exciting scenes which occurred upon paying off the Cra-
pauds — seizure by sheriffs — carousals — their efforts to get
employment farther down the river, etc.
" Agreeable as we found our position in the society and at the
mess of the officers at Fort Crawford, there were urgent reasons
why we should continue our flight to the southward. Even our
hosts could not but advise us to contrive the means of escape, un
less we made up our minds to accept their offer of winter quarters.
There were however, as usual, difficulties in the way. To return
by land to St. Louis was neither according to our wish, nor ad
visable ; nor, indeed, did it appear practicable."
11
122 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
It now being late in November, and a dreary time of
year, always among the Mississippi and Wisconsin bluffs,
though cheering and romantic enough in the warm season,
our voyageurs were in a puzzle how to get away, when a
little good luck fell upon their lines :
" Just in this moment, most unexpectedly and fortunately for
us, a number of barges were seen emerging from the deep glen of
the Ouisconsin,-and tiirning up the Mississippi toward the Fort.
They were found to contain a body of recruits for the frontier
posts of St. Peter's and the Prairie, and for a regiment of dragoons
forming near St. Louis. They had made their way thus far from
the Atlantic States, by way of Detroit, Lake Huron, Green Bay,
Fox river, and over the portage into the Ouisconsin.
" The two barges containing the recruits bound to St. Louis
were in command of a young officer, who promptly made us an offer
to join company; and the following day, the 17th of November,
you may imagine us seated round a pan of charcoal in the stern of
one of the boats, and pushing away from the hospitable shore of
Prairie du Chien, where we left as warm-hearted a set of fine
young fellows, and as stanch and brave an old Colonel as you
would wish to see.
*' The very night after we quitted the Prairie, the Mississippi
began to close, and remained strongly frozen for four entire
months ; the thermometer at the Fort ranging to 25° below zero
of Fahrenheit ; and at St. Peter's, the mercury continued frozen
for three days consecutively."
" We had fortunately however got the start of the winter, dropped
down the current propelled by six oars in each barge ; and, when
the wind served, by the yet more powerful aid of square sails ;
and though we had to break our way out of the gathering ice for
th e two first mornings, yet soon after passing the Mining District,
we had no longer to complain of extreme cold.
<c I shall not go largely into the details of our descent of six
hundred miles to St. Louis, which it took us nine days to effect.
Though highly entertaining to us, it would be monotonous in de
scription. The shores of the Mississippi and the character of the
channel continued to lie interesting, without having an equal claim
to be considered as romantic as the upper portion of the river.
Towns there were none, and the settlements were few and distant
from each other, till we got within a hundred miles or so of the
mouth of the Missouri.
MINNESOTA THE MISSISSIPPI. 123
" Our encampments — for we still spread our beds every night
in the forests — continued to be the scenes of much amusement and
enjoyment."
I have already given a pretty full portraiture of the
country along the Mississippi, from St. Louis to Prairie du
Chien — that region where, in 1833, "towns there were
none, and settlements were few . and distant from each
other." How gratifying is the contrast of the present ;
now, in 1851, some eighteen years later, we see towns and
cities, of from two to eight, and even twelve thousand pop
ulation, built up every twenty or thirty miles, and well
sustained in wealth and progress by a rich and thickly-
settled country, of well-cultivated farms. And instead of
" making encampments, and spreading beds every night in
the forests," the traveler now enjoys a comfortable berth
in the daily steampacket; or, is lodged in a pleasant
room at some of the high and spacious hotels, found in
all the towns and cities above alluded to, along the
route.
MINNESOTA is a new and rapidly improving Territory,
lying north of Michigan, Wisconsin, and Iowa, on both
sides of the Mississippi river. Its winters are long, with
several months of very deep snow, but during the growing
season vegetation puts forward with remarkable rapidity
and luxuriance ; so that, even in that region, considerable
pleasant and profitable agricultural operations are carried
on, and the numbers of persons engaged in that pursuit are
briskly increasing. And notwithstanding its northern po
sition and rigorous climate, emigration, from New England,
with some foreigners, is pouring into the territory in such
numbers, that it must soon be asking for a place in the
Union as a State.
It in fact possesses a more mild and favorable climate
and surface of country than the northern portion of New
England and New York — the spring and autumn being
124 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
less liable to destructive frosts there, than in those older
northern states.
The city of ST. PAULS, situated on the Mississippi, some
eight miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, is the seat of
the Territorial Government.
St. Anthony's Falls were discovered by Father Henne-
pin as-early as 1680 ; and the same region was visited by
other explorers very soon after. Adventurers, both for
discovery and trade in furs with the Indians, visited the
Minnesota or Dacota country early in the seventeenth
century, and planted trading posts at different points. La
Hontan visited this country about that time, beside Mar-
quette and De Soto.
In 1812, Earl Selkirk commenced a Settlement on Red
river, near the mouth of Pembina river, several hundred
miles northwest of St. Pauls. Some years afterward,
another post or town was established further down (north
ward) the river ; but since that time, however, the upper
settlement has mostly moved down to the lower one,
where there is a flourishing, happy Colony of industrious,
hardy, peaceful people.
Until the past year, these Falls have been the head of
steamboat navigation on the Mississippi ; and that two
boats per week, now running between here and the south
ern country, should have profitable employment, is evi
dence that a large amount of business is there carried on,
and considerable emigration moving into this new northern
country. But, during the past year, one or two steam
boats have been built above the Falls, to run in the river
for some hundreds of miles still farther up, establishing &
new era in the navigation of the " Father of Waters."
At this point is where the Selkirk Settlement do their
business on the river, in their annual pilgrimages, to dis
pose of their peltry and other articles, for such merchan
dise as they may desire. I have seen several companies
CARVER TRACT FOUNTAIN CAVE. 125
of these isolated and romantic people, and found them
stout, hardy, liberal, and intelligent persons, indicating
good health and ability to endure toil and hardships.
Among the most singular or attractive curiosities in
Minnesota, beside the great Falls, are the caves, or subter
ranean lakes and creeks. Carver's Cave is one of some
note ; but it can rarely ever be explored, as the entrance to
it is constantly changing and being obstructed by sliding
rocks and earth, which frequently fill up the orifice, so that
there is no access for several days, till the little stream
issuing from it bursts out again, leaving a passage, some
times, through which a man can enter and explore, though
it is a hazardous experiment, not often attempted; yet,
within the cave there is a beautiful crystal lake, with
shining rock walls and inclosures.
The most remarkable and best known of these Grottos
is a few miles farther up the Mississippi, and described as
follows, by Mr. Seymour, who explored it ; and has pre
sented it in a clearer manner than I can pretend to do :
" On Monday, in company with several gentlemen, who lately
arrived in the Territory, I set out to explore Fountain Cave,
which is found near the bank of the Mississippi, two or three miles
above St. Pauls.
" The entrance of the cave is at the bottom of a circular bluF
which, curving around in front of the opening, forms a basin ' ^
recess, about forty feet deep, and as many feet in diameter. De
scending into this basin, we soon found ourselves in a spacious
room, about 150 feet long and 20 wide ; arched overhead and form
ing at the entrance a regular arched gateway, about 25 feet in
width and 20 feet high. This room, however, may more properly
be divided into two ; the division being made by a curvilinear pro
jection of one side of the cave, the front room being about 25
feet wide and 20 feet high, and nearly 100 feet long; the other one
varying in hight from twelve in front to eight feet in the rear,
arched, like the front room, overhead, and decreasing in width at
the farther end. The floor is a horizontal plane of sandstone.
Along its center glides a pretty rivulet of transparent water, which
is heard flowing through the next room in gentle ripples ; and far
126 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
in the interior, out of sight, is heard the sound of a rumbling
cascade.
" The whole interior of this cave is composed of pure white sand
stone, resembling loaf sugar, which is readily cut with a knife.
This cave is probably produced by the action of the water, which
has broken through the upper strata of limestone and worn a pas
sage through this sandstone ; which constantly crumbles off, and
is carried away by the current.
" Having quenched our thirst from the limpid rivulet, and ex
amined many of the names carved by visitors on the walls of the
cave, we lighted our candles, and advanced to explore the interior.
After reaching the farther end of the second room, the roof became
so low that we were obliged to stoop and proceed partly on our
hands a short distance, until we entered another room of an ellip
tical form, with an arched ceiling, and about forty feet long, twenty
feet wide, and twelve feet high. Here the rivulet has a fall of
about two feet perpendicular, into a small basin which occupies the
center of the room. Beyond this room the ceiling is so low that
we were obliged to proceed on our hands and knees. The water
had worn a channel in the rock several feet deep, leaving a narrow
shelf on each side for one to crawl upon, or the channel of water,
six inches to four feet deep, for one to wade in. Slipping into the
water accidentally, I was obliged to adopt the latter alternative,
although the extreme coldness of the water rendered it rather un
comfortable.
" Before reaching this point my companions had all given out
and were returning, so that I was obliged to proceed alone. I
continued to wade until I reached another low room, about twenty
feet wide, where I could hear another waterfall ; the water grew
deeper as I advanced to the upper end of this room — my candle
was becoming quite short — my companions were beyond the reach
of my voice — my person was pretty well drenched with water —
and prudence seemed to dictate that I should retire, without de
termining whether I had reached the extremity of the cave. I
had proceeded, as near as I could estimate distance in such a tor
tuous and laborious passage, about sixty rods. By constructing a
narrow promenade of plank above the water, in the passage be
tween the second and third room, an easy communication to Cas
cade Parlor might be made for visitors."
" On ascending the high land near the cave we found a large
number of snakes that had been killed at different times ; I counted
twenty in one heap, and ten more scattered along the path, within
CAVES CARVER TRACT ST. PAULS. 127
a few rods ; there were two species, the bull snake, and striped
green snake, both said to be harmless. Some might infer from this
that the cave would be a resort for snakes ; biit no snakes will be
found there ; the walls, floor, and ceiling, is constituted of solid
rock, as white and neat as a lady's parlor ; with no soil or crevice
for harboring this reptile. It is said there are no rattlesnakes in
this country ; there is a, snake called the blow snake, whose
breath is said to be poisonous ; but it is probably rare, as I could
not find any person who had ever seen one."
" A short distance below the cave there is a little creek that
leaps over a succession of cascades, making in all a fall of eighty
feet, and, if flowing at the same rate during the season, forming
an excellent water-power."
Much speculation has been, and still is carried on, in,
our country, with the Carver lands., located in what is
called the " Carver Tract," by the heirs and pretended
representatives of Captain JONATHAN CARVER, who claimed
that the Indians made him an immense grant of land, on
the Mississippi, in return for friendships and services he
had rendered them. But Congress has never, to my
knowledge, confirmed or recognized this title or claim,
though it has often been brought before them. The tract
claimed under this pretended grant lay south of St. An
thony's Falls, and east of the Mississippi, one hundred
miles each way, mostly in Minnesota, and embracing St.
P&uls and the surrounding country. Captain Carver was
a native of Connecticut.
At St. Pauls, the capital of the Territory, there are
three newspapers published : " The Minnesota Pioneer"
democratic, by Col. Goodhue ; " The Minnesota Gazette"
whig ; and the name of the third I have forgotten. Some
efforts are being made to have the Electric Telegraph ex
tended to that enterprising Territory, to connect with the
Chicago -and St. Louis lines, through Galena, Dubuque,
and Milwaukee ; as commercial business is rapidly increas
ing to the north, and this speedy means of intelligence is
needed in that region.
128 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Having thus glanced at things in Minnesota, we will re
turn, agreeably to promise, and make a survey of the in
terior of those states, which constitute the principal sub
jects of this volume, and describe them by counties ; and
starting from where we left our Minnesota voyagers, Prai
rie du Chien, we will make a tour of observation, through
Wisconsin, of such counties and towns as have not before
been described. Still, with all that is harsh about it, and
perilous, there is a grandeur and a charm about the Missis
sippi, that always causes one regrets at leaving it, with a
desire soon to return to its banks, islands, and scenery.
WISCONSIN-
1
FROM the best authorities, it appears
that the earliest visits of white men to
the territory that now forms the State
of WISCONSIN, was in 1654, made by
some French Traders, from Montreal
to Lake Superior. The first white set-
-— ~ tlement was made in 1665, by Claude
Allouez and others, at Lapointe, on an island of the same
name, in the western end of that lake ; and a few years
before the establishment of the settlement at Puans
(Green) Bay. According to the authorities quoted by
Bancroft, Schoolcraft, and others, those settlements were
made in 1665 and 1669 ; and in 1673, Father J. Mar-
quette, accompanied by Joliet, went up the Nenah (Fox)
river, passed the short portage of a mile or two into the
Wisconsin river, then descended it to the Mississippi,
which they reached in June of that year. The Legislature
have named one of the counties, near that portage, after
that adventurer, one of the first, Marquette, who ever saw
that mighty stream.
In 1679, La Salle made a voyage up the lakes, in the
first vessel ever built above Niagara Falls ; he called it
the Griffon ; and he has claimed to be the first white man
who ever saw the Mississippi ; but this is disputed, as
Bancroft declares that H. De Soto was the first European
130 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
that discovered the " Father of Waters," and crossed it in
1541. The Griffon is said to have been a plain, substan
tial little schooner, of some sixty tons burden, and carry
ing five small guns. On the 7th of August, 1679, she
sailed from Niagara with thirty-four men, bound for the
western lakes, and reached Mackinaw the last of the
month ; on the 2d of September she sailed again for
Green Bay. At that port she was laden with peltries ;
and on the 18th of the same month, La Salle put her in
charge of the pilot and five men, and sent her back again ;
but they never reached their destination, vessel and crew
having perished, which was a severe loss to La Salle, as
the vessel and cargo had cost him about 60,000 livres.
Still, he and his comrades continued their voyage up the
coast of Lake Michigan in canoes to the mouth of Chicago
river, where they erected a fort ; and shortly afterward
Father Hennepin, with others, passed from that river into
the O'Plain, then the Illinois, and down that river to the
Mississippi.
Wisconsin constituted a portion of New France, under
French authority, till 1763, when it was surrendered to
Great Britain. In 1783, a settlement was began at Prai
rie du Chien, by Giard, Autaya, and Dubuque, near the
site of the earlier French settlement. In 1819 Governor
Cass explored the northern country ; during which year
the garrisons of Prairie du Chien and St. Peter's were es
tablished. In 1823 Major Long explored the same region ;
and in 1832 an expedition under Schoolcraft passed through
the country. In 1836 it was organized under a Territorial
government, with the title of Wisconsin Territory.
This was a territory, under one authority or another,
from 1787 to 1847, when it became an independent state
of the Union, making the twenty-ninth star in that galaxy
of political existences, whose light is seen throughout
Christendom, and whose influence is felt wherever the
BOUNDARIES OF WISCONSIN. 131
breezes have carried paper and powder. In fertility of
soil, comfort of climate, and all other natural facilities of
successful agricultural operations, Wisconsin is scarcely
behind any of her sister states ; and perhaps is surpassed
by none in the rapidity with which her population has in
creased during the last eight or ten years, and their intel
ligence. In 1840 the population was something over 30,-
000 ; in 1845 it was about five times that, say 115,000 ;
and in 1850 the census shows it to be 305,528.
I take the following boundary of this state from Darby's
Gazetteer, of 1845 :
"WISCONSIN, Territory of the U. S., if taken in extenso, is
bounded on the N. by the British territories ; by Mississippi river,
W. ; Illinois, S. ; and by Lake Michigan, the northwestern part of
the State of Michigan, and Lake Superior, E. In latitude it ex
tends from 42° 30' to 49° 0' N., and in longitude from 10° 0" to 18°
30' W. of Washington. Measured by the rhombs, the area comes
out so near that we may assume 80,000 square miles. This region
comprises the northwestern part of the original U. S. domain by
the treaty of 1783. From SE. to NW., by a diagonal line, the length
falls but little short of 600 miles. The breadth is about 160 miles.
" That portion of Wisconsin, organized and subdivided into coun
ties is bounded E. by Lake Michigan; NW. by Green Baj, Fox,
and Wisconsin rivers ; W. , or rather SW., by Mississippi river ; and
S. by the State of Illinois. In latitude it extends ftom 42° 30V to
45o 20', and in longitude from 10° 0' to 14° 5' W. of Washington.
From the SW. angle, on Mississippi river, to the NE. point between
Green Bay and Lake Michigan, the length is 280 miles. The
breadth varies from near 100 to a mere point ; area about 11,500
square miles. The face of the country is rather waving than
either hilly or flat, though both extremes exist. It is a territory
in a remarkable manner supplied with navigable streams. Fox
river, flowing into Green Bay, and Wisconsin., into Mississippi
river, approach each other so near as to leave but a short portage
between their channels. The higher branches of Rock river rise
in Wisconsin, and flow into the State of Illinois.
" It has a coast of about 200 miles on Lake Michigan, over which
flow some small streams, but the shallowness of the water of the
lake precludes any harbor admitting vessels of more than very
132 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
moderate draught. The rivers afford much more extensive navi
gable facilities than does the lake.
" The town of MADISON, on what is called the Four Lakes, is the
capital of the Territory. This town is situated at N. latitude 43e
5', and longitude 12° 12' W. of Washington, and almost directly S.
of the portage between Wisconsin and Fox rivers ; distance about
40 miles, and about 140 miles a little N. of NW. from Chicago." .
MOUNDS AND EARTHWORKS. — In various portions of the
Western States, ancient mounds, embankments, and forti
fications are found, which show them clearly to have been
the work of a people inhabiting here long before the dis
covery, by Columbus, of this continent.
By what character of people, or for what purpose, the
mounds were made, are inexplicable points, about which
as yet, no history that we possess can enlighten us satis
factorily.
In Wisconsin, at the town of AZTALAN, the most sin
gular and remarkable, as well as the most perfect of these
earthworks, have been found. In April last I visited them.
They form embankments of four to six feet high, inclosing
fields of from ten to forty acres ; with conical mounds
varying in size and hight, from ten to twenty high, and
thirty and fifty feet diameter at the base — some inside and
others outsMe of the inclosures. They are located near a
small river, on u smooth bank sloping gradually toward
the water. I ran around on the embankments examining
and measuring them ; on the top they were wide enough
to admit the driving of a buggy, which is frequently done.
On several of them, and around, a thin red haze filled the
air, through which the bluffs loomed at a distance, and the
Mounds appeared dilated to a far greater size than they
possessed.
If the reader have read any works ori America, he will
have been made attentive to these extensive remains — the
sole antiquities of this part of the world — as, ever since
ANCIENT MOUNDS. 133
their existence has become generally known, with the fact,
that the Indian tribes of our day, apparently declining in
number at the very time of the discovery of the continent,
were themselves seated on a soil whose ancient monu
ments attested its prior possession by a more numerous
and more civilized race, they became a favorite theme for
the speculation of the theorist and the traveler. It is
probable that some were built as tombs, others as watch-
towers, or for defense, and perhaps the larger class as rude
temples. Most of those tumili which have, been opened
have been found to contain human bones, coarse pottery,
rude weapons, or ornaments. But none of the larger have
hitherto undergone scrutiny.
There is an artificial Mound situated forty miles west
of CHICAGO, which measures four hundred and fifty yards
in length, by seventy-five in breadth, and sixty feet in
perpendicular hight. Its form is elliptical, with a flat top.
Also, at Joliet, on the Canal, is a similar one.
From Mr. LAPHAM'S work I take the following :
" The village of Aztalan is situated on the west bank of the
Crawfish river, on the United States road leading from Milwaukee
to the Mississippi, by way of Madison — distant from Milwaukee
about fifty miles, and from Madison thirty. It is very prettily
situated, on the sloping bank of the river, immediately above the
' ancient city' from which it derives its name.
" This ancient artificial earthwork, consists of an oblong inclo-
sure, about five hundred and fifty yards in length, and two hun
dred and seventy-five yards in breadth, lying along the bank of
the river. The walls are twenty-three feet wide at the base, and
four or five feet high, having (except on the river side) an exterior
semicircular enlargement, or buttress, and a corresponding in
terior recess every twenty-seven yards. In some parts of the
wall, and especially in the buttresses, the earth of which it is com
posed appears to have been mixed with straw, and burned in such
manner as to resemble slightly burned brick. There is no evi
dence that this substance was ever moulded into regular form.
Within this inclosure are several remarkable mounds and exca
vations."
12
134 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
In many places very large oak trees are found growing
on them, proving their great age.
From different works on the subject, I have given sev
eral extracts, descriptive and speculative, upon them.
From the supposed resemblance of some of the discov
eries at this place to the antiquities of the Aztecs, in
Mexico, did the town receive its name of Aztalan ; and
certainly there are some things curious and worthy of
note there.
Something of the Climate and winters of Wisconsin may
be judged by the following statement of the clearing and
opening of the harbor, at Milwaukee, for some ten years
past. The freezing up of the harbor, during that time, va
ried from as early as November 15, to as late as the 1st of
December.
In the spring it has opened, some years, as early as the
first week in March, and at others not till as late as about
the middle of April.
The township organization system prevails throughout
most of Wisconsin, very similar to that in the State of
New York ; most of the counties have adopted the system.
No argument is needed to show Monied Men that the
West is a more advantageous place to loan their funds than
the East — that money can be let at higher interest and
oftener turned, and always in active demand on safe securi
ties ; for this is all very well known, and is so generally
remarked, that it has grown into a proverb. It is because
there is much land and little money in the West — the
country being new, filled up with recent settlers, who are
nearly all engaged in making improvements, which, as yet,
yield but small revenue ; and real estate rising more rap
idly, and money scarcer, proportionately, than at the East ;
the latter being in greater demand, until larger crops are
ready for market. So that those having surplus funds,
whether to invest in improvements, or to loan, will readily
ADVANTAGES OF THE WEST. 135
see that it is to their interest to locate in the West, for
the highest profitable operations.
In Central and Western New York real estate increased
in value more rapidly — after the opening of the Erie Canal
and some of the railroads, bringing the products with speed
and cheapness to market — in proportion, than it did at the
East. In like manner, and for the same reasons, will prop
erty be enhanced in value in the states West of the Lakes,
above those on the Atlantic ; so ample now are the means
of communication between the seaboard and the frontier
country.
In conversation, a short time since, with an extensive
grain and flour dealer, of a western state, my attention
was called more forcibly to the contrast between the time
occupied a few years ago and that required at the present
day to take a barrel of flour from Wisconsin or Illinois,
and return the necessary merchandise. Then, two to four
weeks were occupied, each way ; now, it only takes some
six to ten days ; and soon, when the whole line of rail
roads now commenced shall be completed, only two or
three days will be consumed in the passage between New
York and Chicago or Milwaukee. And what is better, de
cided cheapness, too, is attained in this rapid transit. But
that is not.all, nor even the greatest, advantage resulting
to the western settler by this speedy transportation ; his
chief benefit gained by it, is the increased price secured to
him for his products — a price approximating very close to
the prices of New York and Philadelphia.
All who know any thing about it, understand very well
that the prices at the West depend altogether upon the
Eastern market ; and the longer the time which transpires
between the sale and the date at which the articles reach
that market, the wider must be the margin and fluctuations
in the prices, and greater must be the hazards and contin
gencies, all of which the purchasers are bound to take into
136 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
the account when buying the western commodities ; as
prices at the time of his buying are liable to fall, at the
East, before those products reach their destination. But
when the transit is quicker — reduced to two or three days
— these chances of decline in prices, all the risks much di
minished, and the insurance less, so that the produce spec
ulator can very safely venture to pay prices much nearer
the full eastern value.
Under these circumstances, western lands must be great
ly enhanced in actual value ; increased in a ratio decidedly
greater than the eastern lands, when taking into the account
the respective prices at which both are now held, the for
mer realizing nearly as high profits as the latter, while the
cost of producing is vastly in favor of the western farmer
— which proves the wisdom of investing in and improving
western real estate, while it may be obtained for low
prices ; as the astonishing progress making in transit facil
ities is constantly hastening the time of an equilibrium in
land value East and West. And when we consider the
wonderful productiveness and easy tillage of western soils,
even at the same cost per acre, the profit of the capital in
vested is nearly or quite as great in the one location as
the other. As I have elsewhere said, a reference to the
state of things in Eastern and Western New York, incident
upon the opening of market facilities through the internal
improvements of that state, is a palpable corroboration of
the position here taken. But my object is simply to state
facts and brief suggestions, while the wise and shrewd will
enlarge and practice upon them.
These remarks, in relation to the agricultural capacities
of the West, are superfluous to those who have been there
and examined them ; but it is not for such — it is for those
east and south, who have never visited the Prairie country
— that I am giving this plain description, that they may
have some idea, some appreciation of them j enough, at
LAND MONOPOLY SHEEP RAISING. 137
least, to induce them to go and look for themselves at
these vast natural Gardens of the West. In some loca
tions there is one serious drawback, at present, to the full
est growth and prosperity of the West; but still, it is
limited to particular sections and routes; I allude to land
monopoly by non-cultivators. Mr. Greeley, in his travels
through the West, a few years since, observed these things
and -commented upon them :
" I have found, not only the best dispositions of prairie and tim
ber, but also the most tasteful improvements on the cross roads
and by ways, quite aside from the three or four great roads, lead
ing in different directions from Chicago, which are mainly traveled.
These routes are largely cursed -with the blight of land speculation
and non-resident ownership."
This is true in most parts of the New States ; along the
great and early thoroughfares large portions of the public
lands were bought up by non-residents solely for speculation,
as it was believed many emigrants would buy those lands
and pay a high price, rather than settle farther away from
general communication, even at a lower price ; and such
has been the case in some instances, but not universally
so ; for, as is stated above, many settled away on the
cross and intermediate tracts ; and there is where you will
see many of the best farms, and much of the finest im
provements in several respects ; and particularly so, in
those instances where a company of farmers and mechan
ics have gone in and settled down together, creating at
once a pleasant neighborhood.
To those who may prefer to engage in the raising of
sheep, the West offers no less favorable openings than to
the grain grower ; as experiment has satisfactorily demon
strated that sheep can be successfully reared in Wiscon
sin and Illinois, of as vigorous growth and valuable clip
as in states east of the lakes. The writer of this, while
traveling in the West, has examined numbers of flocks,
7
138 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
containing from one to five thousand, which would com
pare favorably in size, health, and fleece, with most that
he has seen in the older states. The natural pasturage is
peculiarly agreeable to them, and is abundant, where they
can range prosperingly, among the swells and slope's of
the rolling prairies, reasonable care being required to keep
them warm and well fed during the short winters ; and in
some sections there is occasional trouble from small prai
rie wolves, yet nothing but what may be easily guarded
against by cheap yards for night-time ; even in many in
stances a good dog, with slight training, is an effectual
protection, as the wolves always avoid them, or flee at
their approach.
It is frequent and exciting fun and amusement to many
Western people to chase these animals on horseback, over
the vast prairies, for which purpose they carry pistols and
lances. The horses very soon learn to understand and
enjoy the sport, and even get so well initiated as to volun
tarily stamp upon, or jump after them as they overtake
them bounding through the grass.
For raising Horses and Cattle, the country lying be
tween Lake Michigan and the Mississippi, and much of
that beyond, is unsurpassed by any in the whole range of
the " Old Thirteen." The grass and hay, from our bound
less prairies, exceeds in luxuriance and succulent qualities
that procured from the choicest meadows of the Genesee,
Connecticut, or Susquehanna rivers. And when plowed
under, they will surpass in product of corn, potatoes, bar
ley, oats, and strawberries, if not wheat, those " Old
Flats."
And to those who have children to rear and educate,
the West presents transcendent facilities. There is wide,
beautiful space for vigorous exercise, with abundance of
fresh air and healthful breezes, all peculiarly favorable to
the full, strong development of physical nature, which is
EDUCATION COLLEGES. 139
of paramount importance to growing youth — vastly more
essential to primary years than mere book instruction,
though seemingly not generally so regarded by parents ;
and these advantages are enjoyed in moral locations, apart,
too, from the corrupting, hollow, and noisy influences, so
prevalent in large cities and dense communities, which
with many is too slightly considered.
The advantages of healthy physical development, under
general moral influence, is of vastly more consequence to
the earlier years of youthful education, than is the simple
proficiency in book erudition; and a proper regard to
these things is always well attended to by the wise;
though, with no disposition to underrate the worth of a
high standard of scientific and literary education, nor with
less care in seeking such privileges for youth, as they begin
to strengthen and advance to riper years; but they do
look to moral and physical education as deserving of the
first special attention ; and in these respects the bright,
fresh regions of the New States — the prairie country — are
pre-eminently favored ; but they are not, thereby, desti
tute of the advantages of liberal education ; for still, the
West is not far behind in the matter of good sehooJs and
seminaries of learning; the primary schools and semina
ries are found to be of the first order, both in the compe
tency of teachers and the comfort of buildings ; this is the
case in most of the settled sections, though it is to be re
gretted there are some exceptions.
And where it is needed — where advanced years have
more matured the child's mind — and when menial tuition
becomes the first and leading object, with parents, who
wish the educational efforts of their children directed to
the acquisition of higher branches of knowledge, they will
find in all of these States, Colleges well endowed, under
1 the control of accomplished and competent professors,
with spacious and convenient buildings, occupying pleasant
140 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
and healthful locations ; and in all essentials holding a fa
vorable comparison with similar institutions East.
Another important fact exists in favor of Western in
stitutions ; that of economy, or pecuniary saving ; as the
desired tuition can here be obtained at considerable less
expense than at the East. In fact, Eastern men, of such
limited means that they can ill afford to give their children
a liberal education there, may remove West, locate in the
vicinity of some college, and there, by judicious manage
ment, be really able to educate them handsomely.
Thus, we see that in the West, we clearly possess three
decided advantages for educating families ; namely, moral
security, reduced expense, and better physical develop
ment ; and certainly these things are worth reflecting upon
by those interested ; and I give the facts, to be entertained
as they see fit — to be appreciated and appropriated when
wisdom and utility shall direct. Thus, for less toil a com
petence is acquired, and for less money an education is
obtained. Nothing is truer than the following remarks of
a foreigner :
" You may see men of learning and superior minds in Europe
toiling week after week, and year after year, merely to procure
for themselves and families the bare food, clothing, and shelter
they need ; which, in tire new world [America] is obtained with
but seemingly little exertion."
These remarks will hold equally as true, and the con
trast is full as striking, in regard to the old and new states
of our country. Thousands struggle on through life, in
the older states, for barely the means of existence from
year to year ; when, by removing westward, and expend
ing the same efforts there, it would procure for them an
easy competence, often a fortune.
But in many cases the circumstances under which great
numbers of honest, faithful men have to labor, are such*
that it is next to impossible for them to lay up enough of
GOVERNMENT LANDS KOSSUTH. 141
their earnings to remove their families westward, buy
land, and commence improvements, or procure the means
of living till their improvements will yield them the ne
cessaries of life. This is particularly true with hundreds
of worthy mechanics in large cities. In such cases, it
would be wise, good policy, nay, it is the duty of Con
gress, to grant them 80 or 160 acres of land, free of price,
if they will settle on and improve it ; their little money
would then enable them to do this comfortably, as they
have not first to pay it all out for their land, with nothing
left to help themselves. Government can make no better
investment than to give the wild lands to absolute culti
vators.
The proposition of our Federal Government to grant to
the patriot KOSSUTH, and his compatriots, a colony, a tract
of land, without pay, on which to settle, is creditable to
it. They have selected it in Iowa, and call the place New
Buda.
It lies in a beautiful region of country, in Decatur
county, south of Iowa river, and toward the Des Moines.
The land was selected by Governor UJHAZY. Whether
Kossuth will still struggle on, or settle down in a
colony with his fellow refugees, is not yet known.
Our Government would also do just and wisely for its
own interests, to give to every needy, industrious, and
orderly man — native or foreigner — land enough for a com
fortable home, who would occupy and cultivate it ; eighty
acres is enough ; that amount, well cultivated, would give
any prudent family a comfortable living, and yearly add a
small sum to the surplus in their coffers. Still, let it be a
larger amount, if it prove best. We have domain, lying
useless and waste, enough to supply all who would ask for
such farms, for many generations ; and as all must die,
the first would give place to their successors, so that the
population should not become so dense, on the whole
142 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
earth, that there should no longer be space left. Has not
the Almighty spread out the bright, fertile earth for man's
occupancy, and not to lie untenanted and fruitless1? If
this be not the case, why has civilization, nay, apparent
destiny, been allowed to drive off, to almost extinguish,
the aboriginal races, from the rich, boundless tracts which
they for centuries occupied, but left uncultivated ; simply
ranging over them for game and wild fruits.
The first and highest wealth of a nation, and its surest
protection, is an industrious, independent agricultural pop
ulation ; and the next is an ingenious, prosperous artizan
community, working hand in hand, harmoniously, with the
former ; and they together soon add a third branch of na
tional wealth ; that is, good roads and extensive thorough
fares.
In all of these states and territories, described in this
book, there are large quantities of public lands that now,
and probably for a long time will, lie waste and useless,
which would soon be occupied by industrious yeomen, who
wrould speedily cause them to produce with profitable lux
uriance, if the Government would throw them open to the
free possession of such persons.
The fine towns that are built up at the river mouths,
and the huge steamers and sail- vessels which daily enter
them, prove how greatly mistaken the early travelers and
writers were, many times, in regard to the depth of water
or harbor facilities along the lakes ; as in the case above
quoted from Darby. True, in some instances, dredging at
the mouth of rivers has been of great benefit, by removing
portions of bars, which had collected by the wash into the
channels. I take the following from LAPHAM'S History of
Wisconsin :
" The Territory of Wisconsin, as established at present, is
bounded as follows : Commencing in the middle of Lake Michigan,
in north latitude forty-two degrees and thirty minutes; thence
^ r
CFTHC
UNIVERSITY
OF
- LIMITS - GROWTH. 143
north along the middle of the lake, to a point opposite the main
channel or entrance of Green Bay ; thence through said channel
and Green Bay to the mouth of the Menomonee river; thence
through the middle of the main channel of said river to that head
nearest the Lake of the Desert; thence in a direct line to the mid
dle of said lake ; thence to the source of the Montreal river ; thence
through the middle of the main channel of that river to its mouth;
thence with a direct line across Lake Superior to where the Terri
torial line of the United States last touches said lake northwest ;
thence along said Territorial line to a point due north of the head
waters or source of the Mississippi river, in longitude ninety de
grees and two minutes west from Greenwich ; thence due south to
the Mississippi ; thence along the middle or center of the main chan
nel of said river to latitude forty-two degrees and thirty minutes
north ; thence due east to the place of beginning.
' ' It therefore embraces all that portion of the United States lying
between the State of Michigan on the east, and the Mississippi on
the west, which separates it from the (now) State of Iowa ; and be
tween the State of Illinois on the south and the British possessions
on the north ; extending from forty-two and a half to the forty-
ninth degree of north latitude, and embracing about ten degrees of
longitude."
Of the general growth and face of the country, I also
quote from the same work the following general and scien
tific description :
*' Many parts of the country are but thinly peopled, and little
communication exists between them and other settlements, so that
it is difficult to ascertain what are their extent, population, and
improvements. New settlements are commenced almost every day,
and soon grow into important places, without any notice being taken
of them by the public. Towns and villages spring up so rapidly
that one has to ' keep a sharp look out' to be informed even of their
names and location, to say nothing about their population, trade,
and buildings. The building of a town has, in a great degree,
ceased to be a matter of much interest — as much so as an earth
quake formerly did in some parts of Missouri.
" The Indians have, by various treaties, ceded to the United
States all their lands in Wisconsin, except a portion lying between
the west end of Lake Superior and the head waters of the Missis
sippi. This, therefore, is all that now remains in possession of the
original owners — the Indians."
144 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
To this statement should be excepted the Settlement of
the Brothertown Indians, who have a prosperous town on
the east side of Lake Winnebago, where they have become
civilized and Christianized ; they live and do business like
the whites, and have a Representative in the State Legis
lature. The Oneida Settlement, too, west of Green Bay,
is somewhat advanced in civilization, but more inclined to
their native habits than the others.
Although, in none of these States are there any moun
tains ; still Wisconsin, probably, presents higher eminences
than either of the others.
"There are no mountains, properly speaking, in Wisconsin;
the whole being one vast plain, varied only by the river hills, and
the gentle swells or undulations of country usually denominated
rolling. This plain lies at an elevation of from six hundred to
fifteen hundred feet above the level of the ocean. The highest lands
are those forming the dividing ridge between the waters of Lake
Superior and the Mississippi. From this ridge there is a gradual
descent toward the south and southwest. This inclination is inter
rupted in the region of the lower Wisconsin and Neenah rivers,
where we find another ridge extending across the Territory, from
which proceeds another gently descending slope, drained mostly by
the waters of Rock river and its branches. These slopes indicate,
and are occasioned by, the dip or inclination of the rocky strata
beneath the soil.
" The Wisconsin hills and many of the bluffs along the Missis
sippi river often attain the hight of three hundred feet above their
base; and the Blue Mound was ascertained by Dr. LOCKE, by
barometrical observations, to be one thousand feet above the Wis
consin river at Helena. The surface is farther diversified by the
Platte and Sinsinawa Mounds ; but these prominent elevations are
so rare that they form very marked objects in the landscape, and
serve the traveler, in the unsettled portions of the country, as
guides by which to direct their course. The country immediately
bordering on Lake Superior has a very abrupt descent toward the
lake ; hence the streams entering that lake are full of rapids and
waterfalls, being comparatively worthless for all purposes of navi
gation, but affording a vast superabundance of water-power, which
may at some future time be brought into requisition to manufacture
FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 145
lumber from the immense quantities of pine trees with which this
part of the Territory abounds.
"There is another ridge of broken land running from the en
trance of Green Bay in a southwesterly direction, forming the
divide between the waters of Lake Michigan and those running
into the Bay and Neenah, and continuing thence through the west
ern part of Washington county, crossing Bark river near the
Nagowicka lake, and thence passing in the same general direction,
through Wai worth county, into the State of Illinois. The irregular
and broken appearance of this ridge is probably owing to the soft
and easily decomposed limestone rock of which it is composed.
' " On our northern border is Lake Superior, the largest body of
fresh water in the world, and on the east is Lake Michigan, second
only to Lake Superior in magnitude, forming links in the great
chain of inland seas by which we are connected with the lower
country by a navigation as important for all purposes of commerce
as the ocean itself. Beside these immense lakes, Wisconsin abounds
in those of smaller size, scattered profusely over her whole surface.
They are from one to twenty or thirty miles in extent Many of
them are the most beautiful that can be imagined — the water deep
and of crystal clearness and purity, surrounded by sloping hills
and promontories covered with scattered groves and clumps of
trees. Some are of a more picturesque kind, being more rugged in
their appearance, with steep, rocky bluffs, crowned with cedar,
hemlock, spruce, and other evergreen trees of a similar character.
•"• Perhaps a small rocky island will vary the scene, covered with a
conical mass of vegetation, the low shrubs and bushes being ar
ranged around the margin, and the tall trees in the center. These
lakes usually abound in fish of various kinds, affording food for
the pioneer settler ; and among the pebbles on their shores may
occasionally be found fine specimens of agate, carnelian, and other
precious stones.
" In the bays where the water is shallow and but little affected
by the winds the wild rice (Zizania aquatica) grows in abun
dance, affording subsistence for the Indian, and attracting innu
merable water birds to these lakes. The rice has never been made
use of by the settlers in Wisconsin as an article of food, although
at some places it affords one of the principal means of support for
the red men. It is said to be about equal to oatmeal in its quali
ties, and resembles it in some degree in taste. The difficulty of
collecting it, and its inferior quality, will always prevent its use
by white men, except in cases of extreme necessity."
13
146 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Mr. Lapham here occupies a page in giving a somewhat
minute description of the Upper Mississippi, Lake of the
Woods, Rainy lake, etc., wThich is not material, as I have
elsewhere given all on that point which is deemed essen
tial to the objects of this work.
Adventurers, or lovers and seekers of romance, will
find very much to gratify them, by exploring that region,
which they will find handsomely portrayed in the writings
of various travelers to that direction.
In regard to the indications of an ancient people having
occupied this section of country, I copy still from the same
work :
" The rivers running into the Mississippi take their rise in the
vicinity of the sources of those running into the lakes, and they
often originate in the same lake or swamp, so that the communica
tion from the Mississippi to the lakes is rendered comparatively
easy at various points. The greatest depression in the dividing
ridge in the Territory is supposed to be at Fort Winnebago, where
the Wisconsin river approaches within half a mile of the Neenah,
and where, at times of high water, canoes have actually passed
across from one stream to the other. Some of the rivers are sup
plied from the tamarack swamps, from which the water takes a
dark color.
" Wisconsin does not fall behind the other portions of the west
ern country in the monuments, or Mounds, it affords of the exist
ence of an ancient people who once inhabited North America, but
of whom nothing is known except what can be gathered from some
of the results of their labors. The works at Aztalan, in Jefferson
county, are most known and visited, but there are many other lo
calities which are said to equal them in interest and importance.
The substance called brick at this place, is evidently burned clay,
showing marks of having been mixed with straw, but they were
not moulded into regular forms.
" There is a class of ancient earthworks in Wisconsin, not
before found in any other country, being made to represent
quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, and even the human form. These rep
resentations are rather rude, and it is often difficult to decide for
what species of animal they are intended ; but the effects of time
may have modified their appearance very much since they were orig-
ANIMAL EARTHWORKS. 147
inally formed. Some have a resemblance to the buffalo, the eagle,
or crane, or to the turtle or lizard. One representing the human
form, near the Blue Mounds, is, according to R. C. Taylor, Esq.,
one hundred and twenty feet in length ; it lies in an east and west
direction, the head toAvard the west, with the arms and legs ex
tended. The body or trunk is thirty feet in breadth, the head
twenty-five, and its elevation above the general surface of the
prairie is about six feet. Its conformation is so distinct that there
can be no possibility of mistake in assigning it to the human
figure. A mound at Prairieville, representing a turtle, is about
five feet high ; the body is fifty-six feet in length ; it represents the
animal with its legs extended, and its feet turned backward. It
is to be regretted that this interesting mound is now nearly de
stroyed. The ancient works are found in all parts of the Territory,
but are most abundant at Aztalan, on Crawfish river, near the
Blue Mounds, along the Wisconsin, the Neenah, and the Pishtaka
rivers, and near Lake Winnebago.
" The reader is referred to the ' Notice of Indian Mounds, etc.,
in Wisconsin,' in Silliman's Journal,' vol. 34, p. 88, by R. C. Tay
lor; and to the ' Description of Ancient Remains in Wisconsin,' by
S. Taylor, vol. 44, p. 21, of the same work.
" The mounds are generally scattered about without any appar
ent order or arrangement, but are occasionally arranged in irreg
ular rows, the animals appearing as if drawn up in a line of march.
An instance of this kind is seen near the road seven miles east
from the Blue Mounds, in Iowa county. At one place near the
Four Lakes (Dane County), it is said that one hundred tumuli, of
various shapes and dimensions, may be counted — those represent
ing animals being among others that are round or oblong.
" Fragments of ancient pottery of a very rude kind are often
found in various localities. They were formed by hand, or mould
ed, as their appearance shows evidently that these vessels were
not turned on a potter's wheel. Parts of the rim of vessels, usually
ornamented with small notches or figures, are most abundant.
" A mound is said to have been discovered near Cassville, on
the Mississippi, which is supposed to represent an animal having
a trunk like the elephant, or the now extinct mastodon. Should
this prove true, it will show that the people who made these ani
mal earthworks, were cotemporaries with that huge monster,
whose bones are still occasionally found ; or that they had then
but recently emigrated from Asia, and had not lost their knowl
edge of the elephant."
148 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
There is scarcely a county in Wisconsin, Northern Illi
nois, and some portions of Iowa, where the traveler will
not meet some of these curious formations ; and though
by whom or for whatever purpose they were made, is
questionable, there can be no doubt that they are artificial
works, and constructed under the suggestions of human
designs.
Extensive improvements have taken place in Wisconsin,
since Mr. Lapham published his book, and the population
has more than doubled in that time ; towns of but hun
dreds have increased to thousands of inhabitants ; canals
have been dug, railroads laid down, mills and factories
erected, and steamboats put afloat on some of the small
interior lakes ; all of which, with the wide improvement
of farms, roads, schoolhouses, churches, begin already to
give this new state in many parts much the appearance of
older ones.
Kunning along up the Wisconsin river, lying on its
north bank, are the counties of Crawford, population 2,400 ;
it is more fully described in another place ; Rich/land, pop
ulation 1,000, watered by Pine river, with RICHMOND, on
the Wisconsin, for its county-seat ; Sank, population 4,400,
watered by Baraboo river, with PRAIRIE DU SAC, on the
Wisconsin, for its county-seat; Portage, population 1,300,
watered by the Wisconsin and some smaller streams,
with PLOVER PORTAGE for its county-seat. Still north of
these, are other counties, not judicially organized, in the
Pinery, with but a sparse population, and but little known
except for their rich lumber resources.
Lying along the Wisconsin, on its south bank, are the
counties of Grant, Iowa, Dane, and Columbia. They
are more minutely described in another part of this
work.
At the line of Columbia and Portage counties, an elbow
CHARACTER OF THE NORTHERN REGION. 149
is formed in the river, so that from here, its direction to
the source in the Great Pinery is nearly north.
The first tier of counties north of the river here named,
are very good farming counties, containing much good
prairie and other land, with some fine timber, embracing
valuable pineries among the rest ; but farther north still,
with the exception of one or two counties, much cannot
be said in favor of the country as an agricultural one.
Still, for its splendid pine forests and grand water-
powers, it will always be held in high estimation, and at
tract a portion of emigration thitherward. What Mr.
Lapham says of the north part of Brown county will ap
ply generally to much of the northern part of the State,
with some exceptions, where are fine prairies :
" Little is known of the geographical details of the northern
part of this county; it abounds in forests of pine, said the streams
are full of falls and rapids, affording an abundance of water-
power, where this pine is, in large quantities, manufactured into
lumber and shingles, which find a ready market at ports on Lake
Michigan and other places. The soil is said to be of excellent
quality, and is covered with dense forests — no openings or prairies
being found of any considerable extent.
" A singular feature in the topography of the country is indi
cated by the course of the principal streams, which have a gen
eral southeasterly direction toward Lake Michigan, except the
Neenah, which, with Green Bay (an enlarged continuation of it),
runs at right angles to this course, and nearly parallel with the
general course of the lake. The cause of this feature may be
found in a rocky ridge extending along the east side of the Neenah,
giving direction to that river, and ' heading' all those that take
their rise west of it. This ridge extends southwest quite through
the Territory, and from it originates another system of streams
running east or southeast into Lake Michigan."
This description will hold in regard to what was orig
inally Brown county, when it extended to the northern
bounds of the State ; and not to its present limits, which
embraces a fine county :
150 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" The Wisconsin river is one of the most important in the Ter
ritory, especially the lower portion, between the portage and the
Mississippi, a distance of one hundred and fourteen miles, by the
course of the river. At the portage, it is four hundred yards
wide, and it gradually increases in width to the mouth, where it
is six hundred yards wide. In Richland county, it has a width
of about four hundred and fifty yards. This portion of the river
is bordered by high sandstone bluffs, from one hundred and fifty
to two hundred feet in hight — constituting a scenery of great
beauty and even grandeur. The water is shallow, and there are
numerous islands and shifting sand-bars. The current is usually
quite rapid. Hence the navigation of the Wisconsin is rather dif
ficult and uncertain ; but steamboats, such as usually run on the
Upper Mississippi, have ascended to the portage. When the chan
nel is better known to the pilots, it may, however, be navigated
in ordinary stages of the water, without much difficulty.
" The Upper Wisconsin lies principally in Portage county, with
its numerous rapids and portages, affording water-power of great
extent, which is used at many places to manufacture pine lumber.
Large quantities of lumber are annually sent down this river, and
the Mississippi, as far as St. Louis. The pineries commence about
eighty miles above Fort AVinnebago ; and here a railroad has been
constructed (the first in Wisconsin) of two miles in length, to con
vey logs from the forest to the mills. At the Dells, the river .runs
for eight miles between perpendicular cliffs of rock about three
hundred feet high, and only forty across.
" The scenery here is grand and picturesque, resembling the
gorge below the Falls of Niagara, and probably produced by the
same cause. A small steamboat passed through the Dells, in
1845, being the first attempt to navigate the Upper Wisconsin.
Near the Dells is the place where Black Hawk and the Prophet
were taken (after their defeat at the battle of the Bad Jlxe) by
Dekorra and Chactar, two AVinnebago Indians, who had been em
ployed for that purpose by the Indian agent at Prairie du Chien."
Those counties which lie on the south side, next to the
Wisconsin river, are among the very best in the State.
The first is Grant county. There is no county in all the
West that has a better soil for raising wheat than this ; it
possesses more of the appearance and peculiarities of the
New York wheat-growing lands, in Cayuga county, and the
GRANT COUNTY ITS TOWNS. 151
Genesee country, than any county I have seen in this re
gion. It occupies the southwest corner of Wisconsin,
bounded on the north by the Wisconsin river, and on the
southwest by the Mississippi. Its extreme length, from
north to south, is forty-eight miles, and from east to west,
thirty-seven miles ; its mean breadth, however, is only
twenty-four miles. It has a river coast along the Wis
consin and Mississippi of nearly one hundred miles. The
soil in both timber and prairie land is very rich and fer
tile, yielding all the usual crops, found at -the East, in
similar latitudes, and with comparatively little effort
to the farmer. Population, 16,169 ; dwellings, 2,861 ;
farms, 707 ; manufactories, 78.
CASSVILLE is situated on the Mississippi river. It was
commenced as early as 1835, but very little permanent
improvement was made. The scenery about here is very
beautiful. Population, two to three hundred.
POTOSI is considered by many one of the most import
ant places on the Mississippi in the mineral country, and
destined ere long to be the shipping point for much of the
lead trade that finds its way down that river. Population
about 2,000.
The Potosi Republican is one of the best country papers
in the State.
From Dubuque the " O'Rielly Telegraph line" crosses
the Mississippi, and passes through this county, with offices
at Potosi and Lancaster.
PLATTEVILLE is the largest of the interior towns, situated
in the immediate vicinity of extensive mineral diggings.
It is on a small branch of the Little Platte river. The
village was incorporated in 1841, and has an academy,
with a newspaper, and 1,500 population.
LANCASTER, the seat of justice, is a flourishing town,
situated near the center of the county. It has a Court-
152 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
house of brick, and a newspaper published weekly. Popu
lation about 500.
Grant river is the largest in the county, and is said to
be navigable twelve miles above its mouth, at Potosi. It
has numerous small branches, among which are Bois,
Pigeon, and Rattlesnake creeks.
In this county is located the most, or all of that large
20,000 acre tract, owned by EARL MURRAY, of Scotland.
This possession of such large bodies of land by one man,
is a detriment to the prosperity of the county and towns ;
and has prevented as rapid a settlement as would other
wise have taken place ; though I am recently told he is
now willing to sell a great portion of it at very low
prices ; as the high taxes imposed upon non-resident and
non-improved lands — very wisely and properly — by the
New States, render it unprofitable, in most localities, to
hold very large quantities of such unproductive property ;
though not so when improved.
He has married a very rich heiress, of Livingston
county, New York, and has been appointed by the British
Government to a* diplomatic station in Turkey and Egypt,
where he is building a castle for his permanent residence.
The next county up the Wisconsin river is Iowa. It is
one of the largest and most important counties in the
Mineral District. The surface is considerably broken by
valleys and ridges, the whole having a slight inclination to
the north and south from the great ridge, running east and
west about ten miles south of the Wisconsin. This bro
ken character is owing to the soft, easily decomposed
limestone, which is readily carried away by disintegrating
agents. Population, 9,576 ; dwellings, 1,846 ; farms, 507 ;
manufactories, 24.
The famous Platte and Belmonte Mounds are found in
Iowa county ; they are composed of silicious limestone,
and are visible, when the air is clear, about thirty miles.
MOUNDS FLOWERS. 153
The Indian name is Eu-?ie-she-te-no — the two mountains.
The views from the top of these mounds are highly in
teresting. Gen. WM. R. SMITH, of Mineral Point, de
scribes them as follows :
" An ocean of prairie surrounds the gazer, whose vision is not
limited to less than thirty or forty miles. This great sea of ver
dure is interspersed with delightful, varying undulations, like the
vast waves of the ocean, and every here and there sinking into the
hollows, or cresting the swells, appear spots of wood, large groves,
small groups of trees, as if planted by the hand of art, for orna
menting this naturally splendid scene. Over this extended view,
in all directions, are scattered the farms of the settlers, with their
luxuriant crops of wheat and oats, whose yellow sheaves, already
cut, form a beautiful contrast with the waving green of the Indian
corn, and the smooth, dark lines of the potato crop.
Throughout the prairie, the most gorgeous variety of flowers are
seen rising above the thickly set grass, which in large and small
patches has, here and there, been mowed for hay, all presenting a
curiously checkered appearance of the table beneath us. The
mineral flower, the tall, bright purple and red feather, the sun
flower [rosin weed], the yellow bloom, the golden rod, the several
small and beautiful flowers, interspersed with the grass, render
the scene indescribably beautiful.
" To the north, the Wisconsin hills are seen bounding the view ;
to the east, prairie and wood are only limited by the horizon ; and
the Blue Mounds, on the northeast, form a background and a
landmark ; to the south, the view over the rolling country extends
into the State of Illinois ; in the southwest, is seen the Sinsiniwa
Mound ; the view to the west is only bounded by the Table Mound,
and the hills west of the Mississippi, and distant about thirty
miles ; while to the northwest the high hills through which the
' Father of Waters' breaks his sweeping way, close the view.
"Below us, on the plain, is the little village of BEI.MONTE,
with its bright, painted dwellings ; the brown lines in the broad
green carpet indicate the roads and tracks over the prairie ; the
grazing cattle are scattered over the wide surface, looking like dogs
or sheep in size ; while in the distance are seen wagons of emigrants,
and ox teams hauling lead, merchandise, and lumber; the horse
man and foot traveler are passing and re-passing ; pleasure and
traveling carriages are whirling rapidly over the sward, as if the
country had been improved for a century past, instead of having
154 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
been only five years reclaimed from the savages. This picture is
not exaggerated — it fails of the original beauty in the attempt to
describe that scene which is worth a journey of a thousand miles
to contemplate in the calm sunset of a summer day, as I have
viewed it from the top of the Platte Mounds."
DODGEVILLE is a smart little village, north of Mineral
Point, named in honor of General Dodge. Several lead
mines have been opened, and furnaces put in operation
here, and the mineral diggings in the neighborhood are
valuable.
The county-seat of this county is MINERAL POINT, the
name indicating plainly the leading business of the place ;
which is situated on a high ridge, or rather several ridges,
of land, between two small branches of the Pecatonica,
containing lead and copper ore ; and some zinc and iron
are found here. The town and county are being steadily
improved, and are growing in population and wealth. The
lead and copper are principally hauled in wagons to Ga
lena, thence sent down the Mississippi ; though recently
some portions of it is hauled to Lake Michigan, and there
shipped for the East. Mineral Point contains above
2,000 population; a Newspaper is published here; and
new as the country is, already there are two Telegraph
offices opened — one on the " O'Rielly line," and one on
"Morse's." One of the U. S. Land Offices, for Wiscon
sin, is located at this place. There is some Government
land for sale in this county.
HELENA is another town of some promise in this county ;
it is situated on the Wisconsin, near the mouth of Pipe
creek. The distinguishing business of this place is the
manufacture of shot.
Arena is another growing town, several miles farther
up, at the mouth of Blackearth river.
Next east of this is Dane county, the most interesting
county in the state, both for its natural features and the
DANE COUNTY ITS LAKES. 155
improvements that have been made within it. It is some
times denominated the Four Lakes Country, from the fact
that the chain of charming lakes, so universally noticed
and admired by all who see them, are located in Dane
county. The county is a very large one, being seven
townships east and west, by five north and south, or 42 by
30 miles in extent. It is also very nearly central to the
populated and tillable limits of the state ; and therefore,
is very wisely selected as the one in which is located the
Seat of Government, where it will undoubtedly be perma
nently continued. There is not, in the state, a county
which presents higher or as* numerous inducements to men
of industry, taste, or wealth, to settle within its borders,
as this. Mr. Lapham thus speaks of the evil effects of
Land Monopoly in this fine county :
" As soon as it was known that the CAPITAL of the Territory
was established on the point or neck of land between the Third
and Fourth Lake, a rush was made to the Land Office at Milwau
kee, and all the lands subject to entry in the vicinity, and for
many miles around these lakes, were immediately entered, mostly
by those who did not intend to occupy them for actual settlement
and improvement. Hence the improvement of this county has not
been as rapid as some others, where the 'speculators' had not op
portunity or inducement to monopolize all the most valuable lands.
The advantage of having the seat of Government, however, has in
some degree made up for this misfortune."
I have previously spoken of the overthronged number
of industrial classes in our large Eastern Cities, so
much so that but portions of them could have assurance
of remunerating employment ; and that the best present
relief is emigrating to the West, where it can be found.
On this subject the New York Tribune has the following
remarks as concerning the city of New York :
" The grasshopper who, having sung all Summer, and being short
of food and shelter in the Autumn, was advised by the ant to dance
all Winter, read a lesson to many more than have yet heeded it.
156 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Especially to those unwise and improvident parents who spend
hundreds, if not thousands, on the education of their children, yet
fail to qualify them for any independent, unfailing mode of earning
a livelihood, this apologue addresses itself with great force. To
qualify a youth for the profession of lawyer, clergyman, or doctor,
may be very well ; but no man is thus qualified until he has been
taught how to earn his livelihood outside of such vocation. He is
not fitted for unbending and invincible integrity in a profession
who has not been armed with the consciousness that he can earn
a decent living outside of that profession, for which he will not
stand indebted to any man's good opinion.
" ' Can't you give me something to do ?' is now the anxious in
quiry of thousands in our city. Winter is just upon us ; Business
is contracting on all hands ; hundf eds, who have for months found
employment elsewhere, are weekly nocking into the city, while
thousands who have been at work here, but are thrown out by the
contractions of Trade and Industry, unite with them in swelling
the mournful chorus, ' Pray give us something to do !'
" The labor you know how to perform is not now in demand any
where; there is no demand for service of any kind here. Our
Labor market is glutted, and cannot be otherwise until Spring. If
false education and false pride had no existence — if every one who
wants work were capable of doing good work, and precisely that
kind of it which is most needed — there would still be much distress
here every winter from lack of employment. Europe pours her sur
plus millions upon our shores ; and their first cry is for work ! work !
Our own country meets this host by another as needy and as wil
ling ; for every one who can't get a satisfactory living elsewhere,
feels sure that fortune awaits him in the city. So here are not less
than fifty thousand human beings, many of them expensively edu
cated for professions ; some skillful and ready workers if work
were to be had; but all destitute, unemployed, desperate, and
threatened with starvation, eagerly pressing the inquiry — ' Can't
you find me something to do :' "
Upon the wisdom — the duty — of the General Govern
ment allowing all industrious persons, who wish, a portion
of our wild, uncultivated domain, sufficient for a farm free
of price, the same paper continues with well-timed re
marks. Those lands are now lying tenant! ess, useless, when
thousands of needy ones ought to be cultivating them, and
DUTY OF GOVERNMENT TO LABOR. 157
deriving a pleasant, independent livelihood therefrom ; the
Government ought to invite occupants and tillers upon
those lands, instead of repelling them, as is now the case,
by requiring terms which thousands of deserving and
needy persons are unable to comply with. Still, such as
can buy and move on to those lands, would do well to do
so, as quick as possible, and leave an opening for better
employment to those who cannot move away :
" Your ranks must be thinned by the drawing off of a large por
tion of your number into other pursuits — but alas ! what pursuits ?
If it were April instead of November, and you were all qualified to
succeed as farmers, the earth around us belongs to those of whom
you are not able to buy it ; and the unappropriated lands in the
Far West are held by the Government for sale, and not for unpur-
chased allotment to the needy and willing, like you. These lands
ought to solicit your free location and settlement — that would do
great good in time, by drawing off from the cities a class who now
stand between you and the work you need ; but what can be done
for your present relief, we do not know and cannot suggest."
" What we can do in the premises is simply that which Dives in
the parable could find no one to do for him — we can warn some
portion of your brethren that they come not into your torment.
We can exhort fond parents to heed the warning given them in
your hard fortune, and educate their children so that they may
earn a livelihood by their own hands if they are not wanted to
minister to the intellectual or commercial wants of their neighbors.
We can entreat all who love their neighbors, or even their own
children, to unite in establishing the principle that a Government
can have no land to sell while it has a single subject needing
land to cultivate and unable to pay a price for it. And we can ex
hort all who have wealth to so use it as to give the largest measure
of fairly rewarded employment to Useful Labor, and thus contri
bute to the sensible diminution of human suffering, even with
out obtaining or seeking the reputation of benevolence. Finally,
we can exhort the fortunate and the unfortunate, the wise and
the simple, to study intently and patiently the great problem of
human misery flowing from want, and devise and concert mea
sures for its peaceful and speedy solution. Were the desire for it
but general and earnest, that solution would be found."
14
158 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
A very useful and elaborate pamphlet has been got up
and published for circulation, by the enterprising inhabit
ants of Kane county, descriptive of the topography, geology,
resources, and improvements of the county, with its history
and statistics. From this I have copied the following, in
regard to the county :
" The 43d parallel of north latitude, within a minute fraction,
passes through the center of Dane county, in longitude 89° 2CT, west
from Greenwich. The county is bounded on the north by Sauk
and Columbia counties ; east by Jefferson and Dodge ; south by
Rock and Green ; and west by Iowa. Its altitude above the Atlan
tic Ocean, at the level of the Fourth Lake, is 788 feet, and above
Lake Michigan 210 feet. It is by far the largest of the older set
tled counties, containing thirty-five townships — 1,235 square miles
—or 790,400 acres of land.
" The surface, in general, slopes to the east and south — rising
gradually from a level on its eastern border, of about 163 feet above
Lake Michigan, until the vicinity of the Blue Mounds is reached,
near its western limits. These Mounds are the highest points in
the state, their summits attaining an elevation of 1,000 feet above
the Wisconsin river at Helena. The geological structure of the
county is worthy of notice in this connection, since the quality of
soil, in a given district, depends almost entirely upon the ivash it
receives from its highlands. A section through Blue Mounds,
would show the following result, beginning at the top and descend
ing vertically : Hornstone, 410 feet ; Magnesian lime, or lead bear
ing rock, 1G9 feet; Saccharoid sandstone, 40 feet; alternations of
sand and limestone, 188 feet; Sandstone, 3 feet; Lower limestone,
(at the level of the Wisconsin,) 190 feet. It will thus be seen that
limestone forms the principal masses of solid rock ; but in addition
to this, the drift formation which covers the surface is composed, in
considerable proportion, of limestone boulders and pebbles. Thus
all the elements exist here to form a soil of the best possible de
scription, for agricultural purposes ; and accounts for that thorough
impregnation of lime, so essential to certain crops."
" The surface of the county generally is rolling — hills and val
leys succeeding each other — presenting much such an appearance
as we might suppose the ocean would have, if, after being, lashed
by a tempest, its waters were instantly congealed, and the surface
clothed with verdure. The hills '"are seldom so abrupt that they
DANE COUNTY THE FOUR LAKES. 159
may not be cultivated even upon their summits; valleys, though
well watered, are very rarely marshy. There is not a county
in the state containing so large a body of good lands, as Dane.
It is doubtful whether there is a single section, not covered by
water, which is not capable of profitable cultivation. The soil
is composed, for the most part, of the black deposit of decayed ve
getation, which for countless ages has flourished in wild luxuriance
and rotted upon the surface ; of loam, and in a few localities, of
clay mixed with sand. The deposit of vegetable mold has uni
formly several inches of thickness on the tops and sides of hills ; in
the valleys it is frequently a number of feet. A soil thus created
of impalpable powder formed of the elements of organic matter —
* the dust of death ' — we need scarcely remark, is adapted to the
highest and most profitable purposes of agriculture — yielding crop
after crop in rank abundance, without any artificial manuring."
The principal rivers in this county are, the Wisconsin,
Catfish, Sugar, and many other smaller creeks and rivulets.
The most attractive feature of this county are its clear
lakes. Their waters generally originating in deep springs,
they are necessarily exceedingly cool and pure.
" The lakes in this county are among the most beautiful objects
that imagination can picture, and lend a charm to the scenery such
as few, if any, localities can present. There are in all twelve lakes
in Dane county ; bat the principal, and those most attractive, are
the Four Lakes, lying in the valley of the Catfish, and nearly in a
row, from northwest to southeast. A brief description of each, is
all that space here allows. But they must be seen to be appre
ciated.
" First Lake. — This lake is the lowest of the four. Its longest
diameter is three and one eighth miles, by two miles in its short
est ; its circumference is nine and a half miles, and it covers five
square miles. It is situated nine miles above DUNKIRK FALLS,
near the southern line of the county.
" Second Lake.— This body of water lies three and a half miles
above First Lake. Its length is three and a half miles, and its
width about two ; and, like the First, has an average depth of
about twelve feet. %
" Third Lake is next above, at a distance of seven eighths of a
mile. It is about six and a half miles long, by two broad, occupy
ing an area of six square miles. MADISON, the county-seat and
160 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Capital of the State, is located on the strip of land between it and
the next, about one mile across.
" Fourth Lake. — This is the uppermost and by far the largest
of the Four Lakes. It has a periphery of nineteen and one fourth
miles, and covers an area of fifteen and sixty-five hundredths square
miles. Its diameter is six miles by nine.
" The water of all these lakes, coming from springs, is cold and
clear to a remarkable degree. For the most part, their shores are
made of a fine gravel shingle ; and their bottoms, which are visible
at a great depth, are composed of white sand, interspersed with
granite boulders. Their banks, with few exceptions, are bold. A
jaunt around them affords almost every variety of scenery — bold
escarpments and overhanging cliffs, elevated peaks, and gently
sloping shores, with graceful swales or intervals, affording magnifi
cent views of the distant praries and openings ; they abound in fish
of a great variety, and water-fowls innumerable sport upon the sur
face. Persons desiring to settle in sightly locations with magnifi
cent views of water and woodland scenery, may find hundreds of unoc
cupied places of unsurpassed beauty upon and near their margins."
Beside the above, Lake Wingra is a very pretty one
and deserves notice here, as it adds much to the land
scapes seen from several points in the neighborhood. It
is about half the size of Second Lake, and lies a short dis
tance southwest from the town, and south of Fourth Lake.
The Catfish river is the outlet of these 'lakes, and is also
the clear, bright channel which, running from the upper to
the lower one, connects all these glittering bodies in one bril
liant chain, like so many pure pearls strung on silver wires.
The following altitudes and measurements are from the
reports of Capt. CRAM, who was commissioned by the gov
ernment to make a topographical survey in the Western
Country :
" The Catfish, between the Fourth and Third Lakes, a distance of
one mile, has a width of from sixty to one hundred feet, and a depth
of three feet, except near the Fourth Lake, where the width is only
thirty-five,feet, and the depth two. The descent is estimated at a
little less than two [five] feet. Between the Third and Second
Lakes the descent is but very little ; the average width is about
three hundred and fifty feet, and the depth varies from one to nine
LAND MONOPOLY MR. FAREWELL. 161
feet ; distance, seven eighths of a mile. Between the Second and
First Lakes, three and a half miles, there are three slight rapids,
having a total descent of about two feet ; and the depth of water
varies from one to three feet. From the First Lake to Dunkirk
Falls, nine miles, there is but little fall in the river, the water
being usually deep, and about one hundred and thirty feet average
width.
" At the DUNKIRK FALLS there is a rapid, in which the descent
is six feet, in a distance of one and one fourth miles, there being
no perpendicular fall. The banks are from fifty to sixty feet high,
and the valley is much contracted. From this point to Rock river,
twelve miles, there is a constant succession of rapids — one having
seven feet and four inches descent in a distance of about one mile.
The whole descent on these rapids (twenty-five in all) was ascer
tained to be thirty-four and sixty-eight hundredths feet. The
Catfish enters Hock river eleven and a half miles below the foot of
Lake Koshkonong. The whole length of the stream, from the
head of the Fourth Lake, is forty miles, twenty-eight of which could
be made navigable by the erection of one dam at Dunkirk, not ex
ceeding six feet in hight."
From the census of 1850, it appears that the population
of Dane County at that time was nearly 17,000, but is es
timated now to be about 19,000.
There is now considerable good land for sale in this
county, which may be bought for reasonable prices, though
some monopolists still hold on to their uncultivated lands,
waiting for unreasonably high prices ; but there are other
men who, with more public spirit and liberal principles,
are ready and offering lands at a moderate profit. As one
instance of the latter character, we can refer to the enter
prising builder and owner of the Madison Flouring Mills,
which are unequaled in the West, and unsurpassed in any
part of our nation. Mr. FAREWELL spent much time and
money, traveling in Europe, to examine minutely the
Flour-making business there in its greatest perfection, and
to that has added the best improvements of Yankee inge
nuity.
Persons visiting that region of country for the purpose
162 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
of buying lands, town property, or establishing machinery,
will find it to their profit and pleasure to call upon Mr.
Farwell, or Mr. Kichardson who will readily supply them
with information or lands.
MADISON, county-seat of Dane, and capital of the state,
perhaps, combines and overlooks more charming and di
versified scenery, to please the eye of fancy, and promote
health and pleasure, than any other town in the West ; and
in these respects it surpasses any other state capital in the
Union. Its bright lakes, fresh groves, and rippling rivu
lets, its sloping hills, shady vales, and flowery meadow-
lawns, are commingled in greater profusion and disposed
in more picturesque order than we have ever elsewhere
beheld.
At some time in our travels or observations, all of us
have met with some location that was at once and indel
ibly impressed upon the fancy as the paragon of all out
door loveliness and beauty — the place with which all
others were compared, and to which they must bear some
respectable degree of resemblance, to be esteemed de
lightful locations. With many persons, Madison is that
paragon of landscape scenery. As the brilliant diamond,
chased around with changing borders, which sparkles on
the swelling vestment of some queenly woman, so this
picturesque village, with its varied scenery, sits the coro-
uidl gem on the broad and rolling bosom of this rich and
blooming state.
Nor is it less noteworthy for its business advantages
and healthful position. Situated on elevated ground amid
delightful groves and productive lands, well above the cool
clear lakes, it must be healthy ; while the abundance and
convenience of fine streams and water-powers must facili
tate a sound and rapid advancement here in agricultural
pursuits, and the mechanic arts. There are also several
liberal charters for Railroads, connecting Madison with
MADISON COLLEGE HILL. 163
Milwaukee, Chicago, and the Mississippi river ; some of
which are already being pushed ahead with energy.
For a more minute description of the groun(J which
this town occupies, I copy the following from the pam
phlet before referred to :
" MADISON occupies the isthmus between the Third and Fourth
Lakes. It is in the geographical center of the county, and near
the center of the basin of the Catfish. The land on which it is
located rises abruptly from the shore of the Third Lake about 50
feet, and from thence ascends gradually, going northwest, until
the center of the CAPITOL PARK is reached, about 70 feet above
the Lakes. From thence, with a little greater slope, it pitches to
the northwest, descending gradually until near the Fourth Lake,
when it rises with considerable abruptness about 75 feet, and then
falls off boldly to the shore of the Fourth Lake — the distance
across being about three fourths of a mile. Following the cardi
nal points, the ground descends every way from the CAPITOL, all
the streets from the corners of the square terminating in the lakes,
save the western, which slopes gradually about half a mile, and
then rises, until at the distance of exactly one mile from the cap-
itol, it attains an elevation of at least 125 feet. This is COLLEGE
HILL, the magnificent site of the University of the State. Fourth
Lake washes the north base of this hill."
Madison is rapidly increasing in the number of its pop
ulation, its buildings, and other improvements. It has
four or five Newspaper establishments ; and a Telegraph
line connecting with the Lakes and the Mississippi.
The population of Madison is somewhere between two
and three thousand ; a people who for intelligence, taste,
and hospitality, are not surpassed by any community in
the state.
The purity of the water, with the healthy central lo
cation which it possesses, renders this one of the most
favorable and appropriate sites for a Water-Cure establish
ment to be found in the West, which the people are anx
ious to have instituted among them.
The last of the counties, which lie on the Wisconsin
164 WESTERN" PORTRAITURE.
river, on its south bank, is Columbia county. Few coun
ties, if any, in the state, surpass this for the fertility and
feasibility of its lands, being mostly prairie, with fine
groves of timber at convenient intervals. It lies mostly
on the south and east of Wisconsin river, while one corner
of it touches on Neenah river. Population, 9,565 ; dwell
ings, 1,855; farms, 988; manufactories, 25.
FORT WINNEBAGO is now the county-seat, it having
been recently removed from COLUMBUS, a handsome little
village of some 1,000 inhabitants. Fort Winnebago con
tains about 700 population. It is situated at the Portage
between Wisconsin and Neenah rivers.
I adopt the following description of this point from
Lapham's work :
" The Winnebago Portage, between the Wisconsin and Neenah
rivers, near Fort Winnebago, in this county, is a point often men
tioned by all who speak or write about Wisconsin. At times of
flood, the waters of the Wisconsin occasionally cover the marshy
ground at this place, to the depth of three feet ; and being at such
times the highest, the water passes into the Neenah, thus sending
portions of its water to the ocean by two different routes. The
Portage Canal Company have dug a ditch across the portage,
about two feet wide and two feet deep. Captain Cram reports,
that the length of canal necessary to cross this portage is seven
' J^ndred and thirty-nine feet ; and that the fall
froul tlr ^o Neenah, in October, 1839, was one foot
and *.v-.nvv, A. This difference constantly varies, ac-
coraing to the stc.& .,1 tue water in the two streams, but it is be
lieved that it seldom exceeds three feet."
There is a Canal in progress, for steamboat navigation
between these two rivers ; which is also extended down
Neenah river, after it leaves Lake Winnebago, by slack
water, to admit boats to pass through to Green Bay. Be
tween the lake and bay there is an immense amount of
excellent water-power, which recently is being employed
by Eastern Capitalists, who contemplate establishing fac
tories on a large scale, something after the manner of those
MARQUETTE COUNTY ITS LAKES AND RIVERS. 165
in New England. I shall note this farther when speaking
of the counties through which it passes.
There are several small and handsome lakes in Columbia
county, the principal of which are Lake Sarah, Swan and
Mud lakes. Swan is a widening of Neenah river.
Wisconsin, Neenah, and Baraboo are the chief rivers
which water this county, beside some smaller creeks.
Baraboo, like Wisconsin, runs through a great Lumber
Country.
Marquette county lies north of the last-named, and
south and east of Neenah river. It is noted for its good
lands, deep lakes, and fine water-powers. It is much set
tled with tidy, thrifty farmers, who are doing finely. It
contains 8,642 population ; dwellings, 1,747 ; farms, 337;
manufactories, 9. There are several fine villages in this
county.
Two of the largest lakes are Puckawa and Buffalo,
which are seven to ten miles long and one to two wide,
being expansions of Neenah river. Green lake is distin
guished for its clear water, with the fine lands and beauti
ful scenery which surround it.
" Green lake lies immediately east of Puckawa ; eight miles
long by two broad ; its waters deep and clear. The b^Horn.js cov
ered with white pebbles ; and wild rice or fl on «\os
not grow upon it, as upon many of th/'~ .1
" Little Green lake lies four miles Sou en lake, on. and
a half miles long by a mile wide, with a circumference of about
seven miles. The water is said to be very deep. The Green Bay
Republican says, ' It has been sounded to the depth of more
than forty feet, and no bottom found ; in many places, at a dis
tance of twenty yards from the shore, the water is from eight to
twelve feet deep, and remarkably pure. There is no Visible inlet,
and but one outlet, which is so inconsiderable, that it is in fact only
a mere drain. The scenery around is picturesque and beautiful
beyond description. On the north side, for more than a mile in
extent, the shore is composed of a beautiful white sandstone, rising
in some instances perpendicularly to the hight of probably seven-
166 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
ty-five or eighty feet. This stone possesses all the properties of
the best grindstones brought into this Territory.' "
MARQUETTE is the county-seat, a pleasantly situated
and thriving town.
The principal business town is BERLIN, a thriving vil
lage, of over 1,000 population, with a good landing on
the river.
Fon du he county lies east of Marquette, and surround
ing the head of Lake Winnebago. There is much good
land, timber, and water-power in this county, with some
marsh, or low wet lands. It presents many good farms,
and several thriving villages. Population, 14,512 ; dwell
ings, 2,722; farms, 1,073"; manufactories, 16.
FON DU LAC is the county-seat, and is not exceeded by
any village in the state for rapid growth and active busi
ness. It is situated on a river of the same name, near its
entrance into the lake. It contains nearly 3,000 inhabit
ants. Several steamboats run from this port to various
points on Lake Winnebago and Neenah river.
This lake is from 30 to 40 miles long, and about 8 miles
wide, and is of very pleasant navigation. The counties
whirT surround it are, Brown, on the north ; Calumet, on
the east ; Fon du lac, on the south, and Winnebago, on the
west,
As one passes through it, in the steamers which busily
ply upon fts- surface, he is reminded of Seneca lake, in
New York, as some of the shore-scenery, in many respects,
resembles that ; there are many romantic and attractive
prospects around its borders. Captain CRAM thus speaks
of this lake.:
" The Neenah river enters it near the middle, on the western
shore, and leaves it at the northwest angle, by two channels, en
closing Doty's island, by which it is connected with the Little
Butte des Marts lake. These channels are known as the Winne
bago rapids. The water is hard, and when not violently agitated,
TACHEDA CERESCO SOCIETY. 167
is quite pellucid, but becomes turbid during long and severe
blows ; and has a depth sufficient for the purposes of navigation.
On the northern extremity the shore is low, having a narrow sandy
beach, for an extent of about eight miles. On the east side the
shore presents a remarkable feature for an extent of fifteen miles,
in a wall composed of rocks laid together, as if placed there by the
hand of art. A similar wall pertains to portions of the western
shore, but with less continuity than is observed on the east."
TACHEDA is another handsome and thriving village, lo
cated on this lake, and with near 1,000 population ; some
four miles nearly east of the county-seat. There are some
other small towns springing up in this county.
In Fon du lac county is the town of CARESCO, established
something on the Fourier plan, with some changes neces
sary to adapt it to this country and people. It is in a
flourishing condition, and has a very intelligent and indus
trious population, with good schools, libraries, lectures,
etc. ; beside, they take a great number of newspapers and
periodicals. It was commenced in May, 1844, with
twenty-five persons of various occupations. Mr. Lapham,
in 1846, gives the following extracts of a letter from Mr.
W. Chase, one of the members, in regard to this experi
ment. He says :
" We are under the township government, organized similar to
the system in New York. Our town was set off and organized last
winter, by the Legislature, at which time the Association was also
incorporated as a joint-stock company by a charter, which is our
constitution. We had a post-office and mail, weekly, within forty
days after our commencement ; thus far we have obtained all we
have asked for.
" We have religious meetings and Sabbath schools, conducted by
members of some half a dozen different denominations of Chris
tians, with whom creeds and modes of faith are of minor import
ance, compared with religion. All are protected, and all is har
mony in that department.
" The Phalanx has a title from Government to 1,440 acres of land,
on which there is one of the best water-powers in the county, a
saw-mill in operation, a grist-mill building, 640 acres under im-
168 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
proveinent, 400 of which are now seeding to winter wheat; we
raised about fifteen hundred bushels the past season, which is suffi
cient for our next year's bread — have about seventy acres of corn
on the ground, which looks well, and other crops in proportion.
Our property is entirely unencumbered, the society free from debt,
and we have an abundance of cattle, horses, crops, and provisions,
for the wants of our present numbers, and physical energy enough
to obtain more. Thus, you see, we are tolerably independent, and
we intend to remain so, as we admit none as members who have
not sufficient physical strength to warrant their not being a burden
to the society. We have one dwelling-house nearly finished, in
which reside twenty families, with a long hall conducting to the
dining-room, where all who are able may dine together."
Winnebago county lies north of the one last described.
It contains much good lands, with some marsh, and con
siderable water-power ; and it enjoys some of the benefits
of navigation on the lake. There are several lakes in this
county. I copy Mr. Lapham's descriptions of the princi
pal ones :
" Pewaugone lake is an expansion of Wolf river, about ten
miles in length, commencing a short distance above its junction
with the Neenah.
" ". reat Butte des Marts lake is an expansion of the Neenah
river, four and a half miles above Lake Winnebago ; three and a
half miles in length, and from one to two miles in breadth.
" Little Suite des Morts lake is another expansion of the Neenah,
immediately below Winnebago rapids ; about four and a half miles
long, and f-^ mile wide.
" These two las' lakes (Buttes des Morts, or Hills of the Dead)
are named f • or mounds said to have been formed of the
dead bodk^ „* ae Indians slain in some battle, which were thrown
into 1 "ips and covered with earth. They are now grown over
with grass, and present much the same appearance as the ancient
mounds so profusely scattered through the West."
Population of the county, 10,179; dwellings, 1,903;
farms, 347 ; manufactories, 30.
OSHKOSH is the county-seat, a very flourishing town of
about 2,000 inhabitants. It is situated at the entrance of
CALUMET COUNTY INDIANS. 169
Neenah river into the lake, and is a pla^e of much mechan
ical business and trade. Neenah is another fine growing
town in this county.
Calumet county lies on the east side of Lake Wimie-
bago. In this county is located the Stockbridge and Brotli-
ertown Indian Reservation. They have fine schools and
churches ; while their shops, farms, fences, buildings, etc.,
compare favorably with others in the country. They
have, for some years, been represented by a member of
their own people in the state legislature. In 1846 the
population of this county was some 800 ; it is now 1,800.
A high rocky ridge runs north and south through the
county, parallel with the lake shore, from the east side of
which the Sheboygan and Manitowoc rivers take their
rise ; and through one or the other of these valleys, a very
direct communication with Lake Michigan is now contem
plated by the construction of a railroad. The soil in this
county is rich, and well covered with timber, of which
basswood and elm constitute a large proportion. The
rocks found here are limestone, and occasionally sand
stone ; and there are said to be some indications rf coal.
The scenery, especially about the lake, is highly beautiful
and picturesque. There is a Plankroad through a part of
this county, and still much good land for sale at low
prices.
MANCHESTER, a growing, pleasant little .village,, of several
hundred population, is the county-seat." <
Dodge county is in the interior of the stai&'^land is oue
of the best for the quality of its soil and other farming re
sources in the state. The West branch of Rock river takes
its rise from Fox lake, in this county ; it is generally call
ed the Crawfish creek, which runs through Aztalan. The
East, or main branch of Rock river, rises in Fon du lac
county, and runs through the whole length of Dodge
county, passing through the extensive Winnebago march
15
170 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
in its course. This county contained about 5,000 popula
tion in 1846, and it now has about 20,000 population.
It is named in honor of Gen. HENRY DODGE, first Governor
of Wisconsin. In description of this county, Mr. Lap-
ham quotes the following from the Milwaukee Democrat,
of 1843 :
" Springs, and spring brooks, are more abundant than in most
other portions of Wisconsin. The larger streams are skirted by
groves of thick and heavy timber, consisting of oak, sugar, linn,
elm, ash, butternut, hickory, and walnut; while the smaller
streams run through the choicest tracts of burr oak openings and
prairies, interspersed with valuable thickets of pin oaks, which will
furnish farmers in their neighborhood with an excellent and plen
tiful supply of rail timber. Excepting the Winnebago marsh, there
is scarcely any land in the whole county (thirty miles square) which
cannot be cultivated.
" Several causes have hitherto operated to prevent the settle
ment of this district. Its inaccessibility from the lake shore, be
cause of the want of roads, may be stated as one cause; while an
other is to be found in the fact, that one half of this county is in
vthe northern land district, and must be entered at Green Bay,
'"•« even more inaccessible from that region than Milwaukee.
L' t, ' ti^,p£0fc itirear., so far as public notoriety extended, Dodge
county has been left &jferra incognita. Three years since, Mr.
HYLAND opened a wagon road from Watertown to the center of the
county, and settled on a small prairie which bears his name,
whither he was f *" ^wed by a sufficient number of industrious farm
ers to occupy m V the whole of the prairie, but every quarter
section adjoining road opened by this hardy pioneer. About
the same tiny^.six 'V- uues moved from Fox lake, ten miles down the
^Jea, .de a settlement, to which they gave the name
of that ixivin. This settlement now contains twenty-five or thirty
families."
The village of BEAVER DAM is now the largest in the
county, containing nearly 1,000 population, with fair pros
pects of farther growth. DODGE CENTER is a pleasantly
situated little town. JUNEAN, a new town, is county-seat,
occupying a pleasant and advantageous position.
JEFFERSON COUNTY ITS WATER-POWER. 171
There is yet some good government land for sale, in this
county. Number of dwellings, 3,561 ; farms, 2,838 ; man
ufactories, 30. Hustes, Horicon, F airfield, and others are
thriving towns in this county.
Jefferson is another of the interior counties, through
which runs both branches of Rock river and Bark creek,
with Koshkanong lake in the southwest corner. There is
much heavy timber in this county, with some of the largest
trees to be found any where in the state. There are also
some rough ridges and large marshes in the county ; but
very little prairie. There is a Plankroad running through
this county from Lake Michigan, designed to be speedily
continued through the towns of Milford, Aztalan, Lake
Mills, to MADISON. It is now completed to WATERTOWN.
Other portions of the county are more rolling. There is
much excellent farming land in this county, especially
along the rivers ; and Rock river valley maintains here the
high reputation which it so deservedly has farther south.
The geographical position of this county, lying in the
direct route between Milwaukee and the capital, is bev
to afford it some advantages ; and with «i.n 1 .r .^e ad
vantages and sources of wealth, JeF°r«son is becoming to
be known as one of the principal counties. The inhabit
ants are industrious, enterprising, and public-spirited ; as
is evinced by the fact that, in one yea . bridges were
built across Rock river and its main b .n.
The population of Jefferson county, ' - l^?, was near
5,000; it is now near 16,000. In this" coir t .ouna
many of those mysterious earthworks, which are described
in another place. In this county are several handsome
lakes ; among which are Rock, Ripley, Cranberry, and some
others. The streams furnish ample water-power, much of
which is already actively improved with mills and other
machinery. Dwellings, 2,933; farms, 1,042; manufacto
ries, 74.
172 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
JEFFERSON, the county-seat, is situated on Rock river, a
little above the junction of the Crawfish. A dam has been
thrown across the river, creating a good water-power, on
which is erected mills and machinery. Considerable busi
ness is done at this place.
WATERTOWN is the largest town in the county, and is
handsomely and well situated on Rock river, near the great
bend, and at the foot of Johnson's rapids, where a dam
across the river creates one of the most valuable water-
privileges in the country. The village is built on both
sides of th^ river, and is one of the most thriving in the
interior of the state. Its population now numbers between
two and three thousand.
FORT ATKINSON is a thriving village, situated on both
sides of Rock river, and immediately below the mouth of
Bark river. A temporary fort was erected here during
the Black Hawk war ; the place is destined to considerable
increase.
Wau1 sha county lies between Jefferson and Milwaukee
coil ftAjfej . T been set off of the latter as a new county
in 1846. j • ,, vmty contains some of the very best
prairie, with a portion of timber, openings, and some
marsh. The distinguishing feature of this county is its
"aim?r d^ small lakes, many of which are most beautiful,
s'urrr charming scenery. In this particular it is
surp .a alon*. y Dane county, and barely equaled by
Marquet<-°, county. There are probably over thirty lakes
in Waukesha county, many of them skirted with hand
some groves.
Muskego is the largest, being nearly four miles long and
two broad ; its outlet runs into Pishtaka river, near Ro
chester ; this is the same river which in Illinois is called
Fox.
Maquanago lake is a widening of Pishtaka river, at the
flourishing town of Maquanago.
WAUKESHA COUNTY ITS LAKES. 173
"VVissaua, or Gold lake, lies on the road westward from
Milwaukee, and empties into Bark river, and is something
over a mile in diameter.
Kauchee is a triangular lake, with each of its sides over
a mile in extent. A dam across its outlet affords a moderate
water-power.
La Belle lake, is so called from the beauty which it and
the surrounding scenery presents ; it is two and a half
miles long, by one and a quarter wide. Its elevation is
considerably above Rock river.
Nagowicka lake, is near the same size, and is distin
guished by a handsome island in its midst.
Oconomewoc is the most southern of the chain of lakes,
ranged along the creek of the same name.
But those which present decidedly the most curious and
delightful appearance are the Nashotah (Twin) lakes — two
small lakes lying north of Nemahbin lake, near the east line
of the town of Summit. The north lake is two hundred
and ninety-one feet above Lake Michigan, sixty-seven
chains long, thirty-one* wide, and has a periphery of two
miles. On the east bank of this lake is the Episcopal
mission station and their college, recently established.
The south lake is seventy-five chains long, twenty-seven
wide, and has a periphery of two miles and a ^aart'
There is a bright little rivulet runninp "-o the
other, through the slight ridge which vddes t two
lovely lakes. The stageroad from Madision to "Milwauk-
passes on this ridge, affording the traveler a view of 4liei- .
on the right and left. When the valorous Lilliputian
passed over the bridge of the notable Gulliver's nose, his
great tearful eyes, no doubt, presented to the dwarf some
thing the appearance of these glistening lakes to the
passer-by.
The soil in this immediate vicinity is good, though not
of the best quality ; while the timber is convenient but
174 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
light. Still, there are several fine farms and pleasant
dwellings on the borders of the Twin lakes. Population
of this county, 20,000; dwellings, 3,409; farms, 1,743;
manufactories, 78. The country between this county and
Madison is a delightful one for residences.
The county-seat is WAUKESHA, which contains about
2,400 population. It is a very handsomely improved vil
lage, situated on the Pishtaka river, in the border of a rich
prairie ; and contains many excellent buildings. It has
railroad communication with the Lake, at Milwaukee.
The stage route from this place to Madison is an unusually
pleasant one — through diversified and highly romantic
scenery — groves, prairies, lakes, and rippling streamlets,
alternating at short distances, with occasional rugged rocky
bluffs, which, in this level, gently sloping region, amount
almost to little mountains, as you wind along the river
valleys at their base. Troy and Springfield are other pleas
ant towns in this county.
There is still considerable good government land for
sale, on this route, on which pleasant and productive farms
may be made.
Walworth county lies south of Waukesha, and west of
Racine, occupying the elevation which divides the waters
that fall east to the lake, and those which empty into Rock
river on the west. It is an excellent county of land in
which the prairie predominates, though there is a fair share
of timber, and plenty of water from both lakes and rivers.
This county is highly cultivated by an intelligent and fore
handed community of farmers. In 1846, its population
numbered some 10,000; which is now nearly doubled,
being about 18,000 ; dwellings, 3,092 ; farms, 1,980 ; manu
factories, 82.
The county-seat is ELKHORN, situated in the midst of a
handsome oak grove, is a pleasant, thriving village, and
contains a newspaper printing establishment. There are
ROCK COUNTY ITS TOWNS, ETC. 175
several other fine towns, as Delavan, Geneva, Troy, etc.,
in this county.
The principal lakes in this county are Como, Delavan,
and Geneva, with many other smaller ones.
The principal streams are Geneva, Honey, and Sugar
creeks ; very sweet list of names, surely.
Rock county lies west of Walworth, and north of the
Illinois line, with Rock river running through it north and
south, nearly in the center. Its population in 1846 was
about 7,000 ; it is now above 20,000 ; dwellings, 3,631 ;
farms, 1,975 ; manufactories, 126, In quality of soil and
other agricultural facilities it is not surpassed by any
county in the state ; wThile its w^ater-power is probably
equal to any. It embraces some of the best prairies in the
state, a large portion of which is prosperously cultivated.
Deer lake, and the south end of Kashkanong, are the
chief lakes in this county, with several very small ones.
Rock river and Turtle creek are the main streams in
Rock county.
JANESVILLE is the county-seat. It contains 3,500 inhab
itants, and is rapidly growing. Rock river affords ample
water-power, on which is already built several fine mills,
and other machinery. The village occupies both sides of
the river ; and equals most tow^ns in the state in activity
of business. Mr. Lapham thus describes its admirable
location in 1846:
"It is situated on a flat, or level, between the river and the foot
of the bluffs, which are about one hundred feet high. The court
house is erected on the bluff, giving it a very prominent appearance.
Janesville is the point at which much of the trade between the east
ern and western portions of the Territory crosses Rock river, and a
bridge is now erected for its accommodation. The distance from
Janesville to Milwaukee is sixty-five miles, and the same to Ra
cine ; giving the citizens a choice of two ports on Lake Michigan,
reached in the same distance ; it is 13 miles from Beloit, 41 from
Madison, 31 from Monroe, and about 80 from Mineral Point."
176 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
A Railroad Company is chartered, the stock subscribed,
and the work commenced in good earnest, to run a line
from Fon du lac to this place ; thence, southeast through
Walworth county into Illinois, and on to Chicago ; which
will be speedily constructed. Good building and lime
stone is quarried here in abundance.
BELOIT is another very beautiful and flourishing village
in this county, situated on both sides of Eock river, at
the junction of Turtle creek ; its population is about 3,000.
It is a place of active and increasing business; and is
noted for its elegant buildings, and fine wide streets. It,
has several excellent mills, machine shops, and a prosper
ous college.
Here, I am told, was erected the first flouring mill in
the State. Its water-power is valuable. The town is lo
cated on a level plain, but is fast extending on to the bluffs
each side of the river. The college is erected on a high
and airy bluff, commanding an extensive and varied pros
pect. In this vicinity may be seen many of those singu
lar and mysterious mounds, which abound in the West.
Here, as at most other towns on Rock river, abundance
of good stone is quarried, valuable alike for ]ime and
building purposes. This place is noted for its fine churches.
The stock has been subscribed, and arrangements made
r^r having a branch from the Galena and Chicago Rail
road built to Beloit, which will be rapidly completed.
There are several other small villages in this county,
among which are Fulton, Clinton, Milton, Johnstown,
Waterloo, etc.
Green county lies west of Rock, and on the northern
line of Illinois. The mineral region extends through most
of this county ; yet it possesses much good land, timber,
and many fine farms. Its population in 1846 was about
5,000 ; it is now 8,583 ; dwellings, 1,487 ; farms, 805 ;
manufactories, 46.
LAFAYETTE COUNTY MINES TOWNS. 177
This county is watered by Sugar and Skinner's creeks,
and Peckatonica river.
MONROE is the largest town in the county, and is the
county-seat. It is a pleasant, thriving little town of some
1,200 inhabitants.
There are several other small towns in the county, as
Exeter, Decatur, Jefferson, Brooklyn, etc.
Lafayette county lies west of Green, on the Illinois
line. It is in the Mineral District, and is rich in the pro
ducts of its mines, but does a limited business in agricul
tural operations. It is a new county set off from the
south end of Iowa county. Its population is 11,556;
dwellings, 2,079 ; farms, 399 ; manufactories, 21.
It is watered by the Peckatonica and Fever rivers.
SHULLSBURG is at present the place of holding the
courts, though the county-seat has been removed to the
center of the county, where a new town is being built up
for its accommodation. Shullsburg is a mining town of
some 1,700 population. Large quantities of lead ore are
raised here.
There are several other mining towns in this county,
the largest of which are Benton, New Diggings, Fayette,
Gratiot, and others.
Brown county is located around the head of Green B*v
embracing it on the west, south, and east, and on b'
sides of Neenah river ; it formerly extended a long way
to the northwest into the pine region; and was origin
ally a very large county, the old block off of which many
fine and nourishing counties have been chipped. Mr. Lap-
ham's work, thus speaks of the dimensions of Brown
county :
" It is impossible to estimate the area of this county with any
degree of certainty, on account of the territorial line between
Wisconsin and Michigan not having been finally established ; and
for the want of an accurate survey of this part of the Territory.
178 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Brown county was organized by an act of the Legislature of Mich
igan, passed October 16, 1818, and then included all the country
between Lake Michigan and a line draAvn due north and south
through the middle of the portage between the Neenah and Wis
consin rivers. The counties of Manitowoc, Sheboygan, Calumet,
Fond du lac, Marquette, Washington, Dodge, Milwaukee, Jeffer
son, Racine, Walworth, Rock, and parts of Dane and Portage,
have been taken from Brown ; and as she is still a large county, it
is probable that her limits are destined, ere long, to be farther re
duced, before her boundaries are finally established."
And this prediction has become a fact, as the last ses
sion of the Wisconsin Legislature constructed five new
counties off of Brown, viz : Door, Ocojito, Outagamie,
Wapaca, and Wasliara ; Door county lying east, and the
others west of Green Bay.
Lying north of Sank is Adams county, very thinly pop
ulated, and attached to the former for judicial purposes.
It is rich in timber and lumbering facilities. The Wis
consin and Lemonwier rivers run through this county, fur
nishing ample water-power to saw lumber, and good
channels for rafting it below to market.
There is much wild adventure and perilous exploits
enjoyed by the lumbermen of this region; a class of
hardy fellows, who could scarcely live in positions of any
less excitement.
That part of Brown county lying between Lake Win-
nebago and Green Bay, is fast gaining in population and
business, from the improvements going on along Nee
nah river, and the new towns which are springing up at
different points, to take the benefits of the vast water-
powers there afforded ; and the Canal which is being con
structed to perfect navigation between those two bodies
of water. As this river, and the counties through which it
passes, are of much importance, and rapidly becoming
more so, I will here transcribe, from the work before
quoted, a detailed description of it :
THE* NEENAH ITS RAPIDS. 179
" The Neenah, or, as it was formerly called, the Fox river, of
Green Bay, is one of the most important rivers in Wisconsin, ex
tending, as it does, nearly half across the Territory, and almost
touching at the portage the waters of Wisconsin river, by which
navigation may, with a little improvement, be extended across
the country from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi. It takes its
rise in Lake Sarah, Portage county, and runs in a direction a little
south of west (almost directly opposite its general course) for
eighteen miles, toward the Wisconsin, as if with the intention of
entering that river ; but, owing to some unaccountable freak of
nature, when within one and a half miles of that stream, makes a
sudden turn to the north, and soon assumes its general course to
ward Green Bay.
" From the portage to Lake Winnebego, through which this
river passes, it winds about among extensive marshes covered with
tall grass and wild rice. Below the lake there is a succession of
rapids, that require an expenditure of about four hundred and
fifty thousand dollars to render the river navigable. At the Win-
nebago Rapids, near Lake Winnebago, there is a descent of seven
feet and fifty-four hundredths in a distance of seven thousand
seven hundred feet. At the Grand Chute, nine miles above the
Grand Kakalin, there is a fall of twenty-nine feet and sixty-eight
hundredths, in a distance of eight thousand five hundred and
twenty-five feet. At the head of the Chute the bluffs are very
steep and high.
" At the Little Chute, three miles above the Grand Kakalin,
there is a descent of thirty one feet and twenty-two hundredths,
in a distance of nine thousand two hundred feet ; and the banks are
high and steep near the head of the Chute. At the Grand Kakalin
there is a fall of forty-four feet, in a distance of eight thousand six
hundred feet. At the Rapide de Croche, four miles below the
Grand Kakalin, the fall of the river is only one foot and seventeen
hundredths, in a distance of thirteen hundred feet ; but the ' crook'
is so short, and the current so rapid, and sets so strongly against
the southern bank, that a boat would experience great difficulty in
passing, and would invariably incur the risk of being forced against
the shore before it could turn the elbow or crook.
" The Little Kakalin, and Depere Rapids, are already improved,
by the Dam at Depere, of six feet in bight. The whole descent in
these rapids is about one hundred and twenty feet ; and if we add
one foot per mile for the descent of the river between the rapids,
we find Lake Winnebago one hundred and sixty feet above Lake
180 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Michigan. Above Lake Winnebago, the descent in the river is
probably about half a foot per mile, or sixty-three feet to the port
age, making that place, as stated in the table of altitudes, two hun
dred and twenty-three feet above Lake Michigan. At a place on
this river called Red Banks, there are numerous ancient artificial
mounds on both sides of the river."
The splendid water-powers which these rapids afford are
being improved and put to use, for driving factories, by
Eastern capitalists.
There is much excellent land in Brown county, and yet
much that is of little value for agricultural purposes.
There are some heavy forests, and some fine prairies ; a
good deal for sale, and at low prices.
The present size of this county contains between six or
seven thousand inhabitants ; dwellings, 1,005 ; farms, 267 ;
manufactories, 23. The Oneida Indians, wrho were remov
ed from the State of New York, are settled in this county,
west of Green Bay, on Duck creek.
The former county-seat, GREEN BAY, is at the head of
that bay on Neenah river. It occupies a very important
location, and possesses an excellent harbor. It contains
many large and superb buildings, and is a point of consid
erable commercial transactions. In 1846, its population
was said to be about 1,000; now it is something more
than double that amount. Near here, and to the west, is
FORT HOWARD, a commanding eminence on the west bank
of the river. Farther up the Neenah, a short distance, is
the handsome village of DEPERE, the new county-seat, pos
sessing a good water-power, at the Depere Rapids.
There are some other smaller towns in this county,
which have prospects of farther growth ; among them are
Lawrence, Kakalin, Navarino, Cobperstown, and others.
There are many important rivers, which have either
thair rise or mouth in this county. The Kewahnee, the
Twin rivers, and some smaller ones, empty into Lake
BROWN COUNTY RIVERS LAKES SOIL. 181
Michigan. The Peshtego, Oconto, and others, fall into
Green Bay. The Manitto, the Pewaugonee, or Wolf river,
with others, are branches of the Neenah ; the latter being
larger than the Neenah itself, and rises in the lumber coun
try. The Manitto, or Devil river, rises near the south line
of the county, and running parallel to, and only two or
three miles from, Neenah river, for a distance of twenty
miles, enters that river near its mouth. This peculiar ten
dency of several streams and lakes to parallelism, is prob
ably owing to some peculiar arrangement of the strata rock
beneath the soil, which is generally limestone. There are
many othet rivers which are not named here.
An important river north of here, in the pine country, is
the Menominee, quite a large river, that enters Green Bay
near its middle, and forms part of the boundary of the
county as well as state. Its course has been very inaccu
rately represented on the old maps, and some difficulties
have resulted in relation to the boundary between Wis
consin and Michigan, requiring the action of Congress to
adjust — showing how important is it for map-makers to
preserve accuracy in their work.
There are some small lakes in this county, but not much
known ; in the northern part of the original county is a
lake of some curiosity, of which Lapham says :
" Lake Katakittekon, or « Lac Vieux Desert,' at the head of the
Wisconsin river (and not of the Montreal, as has been supposed,)
which it is probable may fall within the county of Brown. The
middle of this lake was made a point in the boundary of the Terri
tory. On an island in it, there was an old deserted planting
ground of the Indians ; hence its name with the French, Lac Vieux
Desert. Lake of the Desert, as this is sometimes translated, is an
improper name, the country about it being not a desert, but one of
great fertility. It occupies a high level above Lakes Superior and
Michigan, and abounds in small lakes, which constitute the heads
of several large rivers. The Menomonee of Lake Michigan, the
Otonagon, and Montreal of Lake Superior, and the Wisconsin and
16
182 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Chippewa of the Mississippi, all take their rise on the summit in
the Katakittekon country."
The following extract from Capt. Cram's report relative
to this interesting country, is the only information we have
in relation to it :
" The water of these small reservoirs, and of the streams gen
erally, is cold and limpid. Some of the lakes were observed to con
tain the specled trout, such as are generally met with in high lati
tudes in the United States. The scenery of these lakes is beautiful,
and the land adjacent to them is better than is generally believed
by those who have not had an opportunity of personal examination.
The country is not mountainous, but may be denominated ' roll
ing.' The growth of timber is tolerably heavy, consisting of white
and yellow pine on the borders of the lakes ; in some instances of
cedar, fir, hemlock, and tamarack; and a little back of the lakes,
of sugar maple, white maple, white and yellow birch, poplar, bass,
and hemlock.
" The soil is of a nature to be adapted to the culture of wheat, rye,
grass, oats, flax, hemp, and potatoes. In some places the soil is
rocky, although no very large masses or ledges of rocks were ob
served. The manufacture of maple sugar is carried on to a con
siderable extent by the Indians of this region."
From the north part of Crawford county, the Wiscon
sin Legislature, at its last session, constructed two new
counties, under the names of Bad Ax and La Crosse,
watered respectively by the rivers of the same names, and
by Black river. They have very little settlements, as
yet ; but must come speedily to be important and valua
ble districts for their vast forests of good pine timber ;
while they also contain some good farming lands. The
young village of PRAIRIE LA CROSSE, in the latter county,
is favorably situated on the Mississippi, and is growing
rapidly ; it is 90 miles above Prairie du Chien.
Still north are other large tracts, organized into coun
ties, known by the names of St. Croix, La Pointe, Chip
pewa, and Marathon, varying from 600 to 1,000 popula
tion.
CHIPPEWA AND 8T. CROIX COUNTIES. 183
Of Chippewa Mr. Lapham says
" In superficial extent, this county is estimated at about nine
thousand square miles. It embraces the basin of the Chippewa
river, one of the largest tributaries of the Mississippi in Wisconsin.
" The Chippewa river (Ojibwa, of the Indians) runs entirely across
the Territory, having its rise in the State of Michigan, near the
sources of the Wisconsin, Montreal, etc., and running into the
Mississippi near the foot of Lake Pepin. It is about five hundred
yards wide at its mouth. There are six rapids on the Chippewa.
The principajl one, called the * Falls,' is about seventy-five miles
above the mouth, and has a descent of twenty-four feet in the dis
tance of half a mile. A very large amount of pine lumber is an
nually sent down this river. Toward the sources of this stream
and its branches there are many fine lakes, some of which have re
ceived names. The principal are Lac Courtorielle, Lac Chetac,
Lac de Flambeau, Tomahawk Lake, Red Cedar Lake, Rice Lake,
etc. The Red Cedar Fork is the main branch of the Chippewa,
entering from the west about thirty-six miles above its mouth.
About sixty miles below Rice Lake, on this river, according to
Schoolcraft, commences a series of rapids over horizontal layers of
sandstone rocks, which extend, with short intervals, down the river
twenty-four miles. The remainder of the distance (about fifty
miles) to the junction, is characterized by deep water, with a
strong current ; and at the junction is commanding and elevated,
affording a fine view of a noble expanse of waters."
Population probably 700.
St. Croix county lies west and north of Chippewa, and
east of Lake Pepin ; it contains some good farming lands,
and extensive pine forests, of the best kind, with abun
dance of fine water-powers for mills. Population now is
nearly 1,000. There are several flourishing young towns
in this county, as Buena Vista, St. Croix, and others. St.
Croix, Rum, and several other rivers drain this region.
La Pointe county lies north of St. Croix county and
Chippewa. It is much the same in general character with
the last two described counties. Its population is not far
from 700. Mr. Lapham says :
" From the geological character of some portions of this county
184 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
it is supposed that mines of copper and silver may yet be found,
similar to those now known to exist farther East, within the ' up
per Peninsula' of Michigan.
" The principal rivers are the Upper Mississippi, Kainy Lake
river, the St. Louis river, the Bois Brule (or Burnt Wood), the
Mauvais, and the Montreal rivers.
" llainy Lake river is about one hundred miles long, rapid but
navigable, and about four hundred yards in width at its mouth.
Through this stream the waters of Rainy Lake pass to the Lake
of the Woods ; and from thence they flow to Hudson's Bay at the
north.
" LA POINTE, on Madeline Island, in Lake Superior, is the
county-seat. The county extends to the source of the Mississippi,
and north to the Lake of the Woods. The settlement at La Pointe
is the oldest in the Territory — older even than Green Bay."
Marathon county lies north of Adams, with the Upper
Wisconsin running through it ; and is least settled of any
of the lumber counties. The principal settlement in it is
Wausaw, with some 600 inhabitants in arid around it for
several miles, chiefly engaged in lumbering and sugar
making.
The principal Lumbering Stations, in the north, lying
mostly on the Upper Wisconsin, are the Big Bull and the
Little Bull Falls, Lemon wier, Grand Rapids, and Ste
phen's Point.
The running of Lumber-rafts over the falls and rapids
of these rivers is an event of great interest and excitement
to those engaged in that business. It is an operation re
quiring much skill and dexterity ; beside, at best, being
attended with great danger ; and to watch its progress is
a scene of lively and feverish entertainment to the specta
tor — we love to see it, but are glad when it is over.
The new counties of Wisconsin, alluded to in another
place, are Door, and GIBRALTER, on the Lake, county-seat'
Oconto, JONES' MILL, on Oconto river, county-seat ; Outa
gamie, GRAND CHUTE, on Neenah river, county-seat;
Waupacca, MUKWA, on Wolf river, county-seat; Wau-
NEW COUNTIES LANDS. 185
shara, SACREMENTO, county-seat; Bad Ax, SPRINGVILLE,
county-seat ; and La Crosse, LA CROSSE, county-seat.
These, with two or three other new and sparsely settled
counties, of course, have as yet but few improvements,
and have their public buildings yet to erect, which will
make demand for mechanics in those counties. Much of
the lands surrounding the county-seats are of good quality,
and at present can be bought at low prices ; which facts
make it an object for a sufficient number of mechanics to
locate thereabouts soon, by purchasing lands and lots be
fore they are monopolized by non-improving speculators,
who will hold them at high prices.
A reference to the Map will show the location and boun
daries of these new counties.
RECAPITULATION. — Total population of the State, 305,-
538 ; number of cultivated farms, 22,034 ; number of
manufacturing establishments, 1,273 ; number of dwell
ings. 56,281.
IOWA,
r
ON the west bank of the Missis
sippi, and west of the States of Illi
nois and Wisconsin, lies the new
State of Iowa ; it having been admit
ted into the Union in 1846, as an
independent state — the 28th sover
eignty of that great Confederacy of
political powers, which in many respects is, and in others
ought to become, a high and noble example for the emula
tion of the civilized world ; a consummation we anxiously
hope for our beloved nation — and that it is not far distant.
Darby gives the following boundaries or limitations to
the Territory :
" Iowa, Territory of the United States. There is some difficulty
in giving a descriptive sketch of this Territory, so rapidly ap
proaching its change to that of an independent State of the Union,
from our ignorance of the limits which may be assigned to it when
erected into a State. We assume, however, as probable, the fol
lowing boundaries: the State of Missouri S., from the Missouri
river to the mouth of Des Moines river, thence up the Mississippi
river to the mouth of St. Peter's river, and thence up the latter
stream to its great bend, thence in a SSW. direction to the Missouri
river, and down the latter to the northwestern angle of the State
of Missouri.
" Geographically, the preceding limits embrace a zone from 40"
33' to 45° N. latitude ; and in longitude from 13° to 19° W. of Wash
ington ; area about 70,000 square miles.
INDIAN TITLES EXTINGUISHED HISTORY. 187
"The part organized into counties and included in the census,
lies westward from the Mississippi river, and extending nearly due
N. from the Des Moines river, to a little above Prairie du Chien,
190 miles; mean width, 70, and area, 13,300 square miles. The
whole space, however, included in the designated boundaries in this
article extends from S. to N. 310 miles ; mean breadth at least 200
miles, and area 62,000 square miles. The southern part, and about
the fourth of the surface, slopes southwardly toward the Missouri
river, but the residue declines SE. toward the Mississippi river,
and in that direction is drained by the rivers Skunk, Lower Iowa,
Wabesipinecon, Great Macoquetois, Penaqua or Turkey river, Up
per Iowa, etc."
In his work, published in 1848, Mr. Sargent gives the
following account of extinguishments of Indian titles, and
their removal from that State :
" Until as late as the year 1832, the whole territory north of
the State of Missouri was in undisputed possession of the Indians.
By a treaty made in 1830, the Sacs and Foxes, who were then the
principal tribes, had ceded to the United States the last of their
lands east of the Mississippi river. Their unwillingness to leave
the ceded territory in compliance with the treaty, led to the
* Black Hawk War,' which resulted, after several fierce skirmishes,
in the total defeat of the Indians at the battle of the Bad Ax, in
Wisconsin, on the 2d of August, 1832. In the September follow
ing, partly as an indemnity for the expenses of the war, and partly
to secure the future safety and tranquillity of the invaded frontier,
a strip of country on the west of the Mississippi, extending nearly
300 miles north from Missouri, and about 50 miles in width (now
commonly called ' the Black Hawk purchase,') was ceded to the
United States; and in June, 1833, the settlement of Iowa by the
white man was commenced.
" Farther purchases were made, successively, in the years 1836
and 1837 ; and in 1842, by a treaty concluded by Governor Cham
bers, an immense tract of land, containing some fifteen million
acres, was purchased of the Sacs and Foxes, for the sum of one
million dollars. This tract, known as the ' New Purchase,' now
contains some of the finest counties in the State, though a large
part of it was occupied by the Indians until October in 1845.
" The Pottawattamies, who inhabited the southwestern corner of
the state, and the Winnebagoes, who occupied the ' Neutral
188 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Ground,' a strip of country on the northern borders, have been
peaceably removed within the last two years ; and the Indian title
thus became extinct in the whole country lying within the estab
lished limits of the State of Iowa."
The limits of this state, as bounded in their Constitution,
are as follows :
" Beginning in the middle of the main channel of the Mississippi
river, at a point due east of the middle of the mouth of the main
channel of the Des Moines river ; thence up the middle of the main
channel of the said Des Moines river, to a point on said river where
the northern boundary line of the State of Missouri, as establish
ed by the Constitution of that State, adopted June 12th, 1820,
crosses the said middle of the main channel of the said Des Moines
river ; thence westwardly, along the said northern boundary line of
the State of Missouri, as established at the time aforesaid, until an ex
tension of said line intersects the middle of the main channel of the
Missouri river ; thence up the middle of the main channel of the said
Missouri river, to a point opposite the middle of the main channel
of the Big Sioux river, according to Nicolett's map ; thence up the
main channel of the said Big Sioux river, according to said map
until it is intersected by the parallel of forty-three degrees and
thirty minutes north latitude ; thence east, along said parallel of
forty-three degrees and thirty minutes, until said parallel inter
sects the middle of the main channel of the Mississippi river ; thence
down the middle of the main channel of said Mississippi river, to
the place of beginning."
The climate is a pleasant one, the soil productive, for
most crops, as wheat, corn, hemp, flax, potatoes, and fruit.
Mr. Sargent thus describes the face of the country, in
general, which rather falls short than overrates this fine
State :
" Perhaps no part of this vast region combines in itself more of
the elements of prosperity than that under consideration. Situ
ated nearly midway between the two great oceans — bounded on
two sides by the giant rivers of the continent — and watered by in
numerable smaller streams ; possessing a fertile soil, inexhaustible
mineral resources, a healthful climate, a free constitution, and a
hardy and industrious population ; uncursed by slavery, and un-
IOWA CITY STATE CAPITAL. 189
trammeled by debt ; the State of Iowa has commenced its career
with prospects of far more than ordinary brilliancy. In extent of
territory, it is one of the largest in the Union ; and it may safely
be prophesied, that it is destined, at no distant day, to rank among
the first in point of wealth and political importance.
" The general face of the country is that of a high, tolling prairie,
watered by numerous streams, and, on the river-courses, skirted
with woodlands. An idea prevails at the East, that the prairies
are uniformly level. This is by no means the case. Sometimes,
indeed, they are spread out in boundless plains : but the high, or
upland prairies, which are much the most beautiful, as well as the
best adapted to cultivation — present a series of graceful undula
tions not unlike the swell of the sea, from which they derive the ap
pellation ' rolling.' "
The seat of government of this State is IOWA CITY, in
Johnson county ; a thriving town romantically located on
the bluffs of the Iowa river, in a pleasant grove surrounded
by magnificent prairies. Mr. Sargent thus speaks in 1848 :
" IOWA CITY, the capital of the State, and the seat of justice of
this county, is situated near its center, on the left bank of Iowa
river. The settlement and growth of this town have been remark
ably rapid. In May, 1839, when the seat of government was lo
cated, it was entirely in a state of nature. In less than one year
afterward it contained from five to seven hundred inhabitants,
and several hotels and shops. It has since increased with equal
rapidity, and now contains several churches, a college, academy,
and excellent schools. Steamboats frequently ascend the river to
this point, and some have gone above in high stages of water.
About a mile above the city, are an excellent water-power and ex
tensive mills.
" The passage of the bill to locate the seat of government anew,
does not seem to have injured in the least, the prosperity of this
city. No one appears to entertain a serious idea that the seat of
government will be removed from it, at least, for the next fifty
years."
The capitol is a fine edifice ; it is built of a beautiful
stone, quarried at that place, full of small starry spots and
rings, which gives it the name of " birds-eye marble," re
sembling maple-wood of the same name. It is located on
190 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
a high, broad eminence which overlooks an extensive and
charming prospect in several directions ; and at this time
contains between two and three thousand population. The
Railroad from Dubuque to Keokuk, is to run through this
place.
The population of Johnson county in 1847 was 2,900 ;
it is now 4,472 ; dwellings, 799 ; farms, 377 ; manufac
tories, 19.
Those counties, in this state, lying along the Mississippi,
I described on the passage up that river to Minnesota. I
will now proceed with the other counties.
There are several projects suggested and considerable
effort being made to improve the navigation of Keokuk
rapids, so the passage of boats at all times may be more
safe and easy.
It is said a company in New York are about to com
plete arrangements for the construction of a ship canal
around the rapids, which will also furnish an immense hy
draulic power.
DBS MOINES RIVER COUNTRY. — Iowa is bounded on the
south a short distance by this river, wrhich still continues
its course through the southern part of the state ; and the
counties which lie along its banks, on both sides, clear up
to FORT DES MOINES, generally, present as good agricul
tural facilities, as enterprising a community, and as rapid
growth, as any part of the State. A Canal has been
commenced, and is making considerable progress, up the
valley on the north side of this fine river, which, in high
stages of water, light steamboats navigate some distance
up. There is also a Railroad projected, to be laid up this
valley, on the north of the Canal, following a ridge which
divides the waters that fall south into the Des Moines,
from those which run north and empty into Skunk river.
This Road is to cross the Des Moines at Fort Des Moines,
and run thence west to the Mississippi at COUNCIL BLUFF.
LEE, VAN BUREN, AND WAPELLO COUNTIES. 191
The course of the Des Moines is from the northwest to
southeast, and of course, cutting the counties through
which it passes diagonally ; thereby affecting a larger por
tion of each than if it crossed them at right angles with
their sides. _
In the southeast angle of the state of Iowa, lies L'ee
county, of wrhich KEOKUK is the principal commercial town
on the Mississippi. This county has been described in
another part of this book. There are other fine towns in
the county.
Van Bur en is the next county up the Des Moines river ;
it contains excellent lands, with plenty of timber and
water ; it is an old, populous county, and well improved.
Population, 12,270 ; dwellings, 2,069 ; farms, 998 ; man
ufactories, 23.
KEOSAUQUE is the county-seat, situated in the bend of
the river ; it is a place of much wealth and business.
There are other thriving towns in the county ; as Farm-
ington, Birmingham, lowaville, and Philadelphia.
Wapello county lies next above, and is well diversified
by prairie, timber, and water ; it is thickly settled, and
pretty well improved. Population, 8,471 ; dwellings,
1,416 ; farms, 828 ; manufactories, 7.
OTTUMWA is the county-seat, situated on the river, and
with a good water-power ; it is a flourishing village. There
are other thriving towns in the county; as Eddyville,
Columbia, and others.
Mahaska county is next above, and is one of the best
in the New Purchase. It is diversified with prairie and
timber, and is well watered, being the only county on the
Des Moines, through which Skunk river passes. Popula
tion, 5,989 ; dwellings, 981 ; farms, 48 ; manufactories,
18.
OSKALOOSA is the county-seat, situated on the Skunk.
It is a new town, is rapidly growing, and is surrounded by
192 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
numbers of well cultivated farms. Union Mills and Au
burn are among the other towns of this county.
Marion county is the next ; and is somewhat more
broken than the others, with a larger proportion of timber.
Here the banks of the river are steep and rugged, afford-
ing coal and iron ore. A colony of Hollanders, under
President SCHAULTER, have settled in the northeast corner
of this county, and commenced a village with the name
of Pella. Population of the county is 5,480 ; dwellings,
930 ; farms, 342 ; manufactories, 24.
KNOXVILLE is the county-seat, pleasantly situated on a
small stream in the prairie.
Polk county is the next. It contains good land, and is
well wratered and timbered. Raccoon river drains the
western part of the county and empties into the Des
Monies. It presents many fine farms and comfortable im
provements. Population, 4,515 ; dwellings, 756 ; farms,
321 ; manufactories, 9.
The old village of FORT DES MOINES is the county-seat.
It was evacuated by the United States Dragoons in 1846.
It is situated on the Des Moines, opposite the mouth of
the Raccoon ; and at the proposed crossing of the Rail
road to Council Bluffs. It is a thriving town.
Dallas and Boone are the next two, and the last, coun
ties through wThich the Des Moines runs, within the sur
veyed and settled portions of the State. They are but
thinly settled, being mostly prairie, though people are
continually but slowly locating there.
BOONVILLE, on the Des Moines, is the county-seat of the
former ; ELDELLE, on the Raccoon, is county-seat of the
latter.
Lucas and Warren counties lie west and south of Ma
rion, and are attached to it for judicial purposes, being but
thinly populated as yet.
There are many new and thinly settled counties in the
BUCHANAN AND FAYETTE COUNTIES. 193
southern and western portions of this state, which the
writer has not visited ; and of which he can give but a
slight and general account.
Of these, are Mills, Page, Clark, .Kinggold, Decatur,
Taylor, Wayne, Appanuse, and Davis, on the Missouri
line. They are said to be well watered, but contain little
timber. In the northwest and north, are Story, Marshall,
Poweshiek, Tama, Benton, Black Hawk, Winneshiek,
Allomakee, and some others, which are similarly charac
terized. Still, many portions of all of them offer hand
some inducements for colonies and companies of enter
prising farmers and mechanics to locate and make inde
pendent pleasant homes for themselves and families.
Buchanan and Fayette counties, though but newly or
ganized, possessing only about 1,000 population together,
and some 70 cultivated farms ; and on account of their
excellent land, timber, and water, are receiving rapid ac
quisitions within their borders.
TRENTON, in Buchanan, is the county-seat ; is well situ
ated on the Wabsipinecon river, and is rapidly growing.
Delaware is a new county lying between Buchanan and
Dubuque, and presents much the appearance of the min
eral lands, being rough and broken, in some parts, though
much of it is valuable for farming purposes, with plenty
of timber and water, being on the head fountains of the
Mokauqueta river. Population, 1 ,759 ; dwellings, 338 ;
farms, 141 ; manufactories, 4.
DELHI is the county-seat, situated on the south fork of
the Mokauqueta river, a pleasant town, with fair prospects
of continued growth.
Clayton county lies on the Mississippi, north of Du
buque, watered by Turkey river. It is a county of good
land and plenty of fine timber. Population, 3,873 ; dwell
ings, 728 ; farms, 200 ; manufactories, 12.
PRAIRIE LA PORTE, pleasantly situated on the Missis-
17
194 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
sippi, is the county-seat. There are one or two other
flourishing towns in this county, as Gernayville, Buena
Vista, and Farmersburg, with others.
Jackson county lies on the river south of Dubuque. It
contains some excellent farming lands, and some broken
mineral lands ; is well watered and timbered, and numer
ously settled, presenting many fine farms. Population,
7,210; dwellings, 1,277; farms, 703; manufactories, 10.
ANDREW is the county-seat, and is a flourishing town, on
Mokouqueta river. Bellevue and Charleston, in this county,
are situated on the river ; there are some other small towns
in this county.
Jones county lies west of Jackson, and possesses plenty
of timber and water-power, with good land, and surpassed
by few counties in the state. Population, 3,007 ; dwell
ings, 559 ; farms, 225 ; manufactories, 3.
EDINBURG is the county-seat, and is a growing town, in
the midst of a fine country. Anamosa is a fine thriving
town in this county, on the Wabsipinecon.
Linn county lies west of Jones. Its land is of the best
quality, well timbered and watered. Population, 5,444 ;
dwellings, 991 ; farms, 526 ; manufactories, 23.
MARION is the county-seat. It is a growing town ; and
is one of the points on the line of the projected Dubuque
and Keokuk Railroad. There are several flourishing towns
in this county.
Cedar county lies between Johnson and Scott. It is
well timbered and watered, presenting much water-power
for machinery ; and is pretty well settled. Population,
3,940 ; dwellings, 686 ; farms, 358 ; manufactories, 4.
TIPTON, the county-seat, is situated on a handsome prai
rie, and enjoys a rapid growth. Rochester is another
thriving town in this county.
Iowa county lies west of Johnson ; it is a new county,
but its fine soil, timber, and water must insure its growth.
JASPER AND JEFFERSON COUNTIES. 195
Population, 822; dwellings, 143; farms, 70; manufacto
ries, 2.
MARENGO is the county-seat. It is situated in the north
part of the county, on Iowa river ; with prospects of fair
growth and business.
Jasper county lies east of Polk ; the land is mostly prai
rie, but of a good quality and well watered. Monroe City,
the new proposed state capital, is in this county, at the
junction of two proposed Railroad lines. Population,
1,280; dwellings, 214 ; farms, 150.
NEWTON, the county-seat, is a beautiful and flourishing
town, on a prairie between the branches of Skunk river.
Jefferson lies north of Van Buren ; its soil is good, well
timbered and watered, with ample water-power, and is
thickly settled. Population, 9,904; dwellings, 1,649;
farms, 1,067; manufactories, 54.
FAIRFIELD is the county-seat ; it is a beautiful and rap
idly thriving town ; and is one of the points through which
the Keokuk and Council Bluff projected Railroad is to
pass ; and is one of the General Land Offices.
Clinton county lies between Scott and Jackson, on the
river. It is a county of excellent land, with fair propor
tions of timber and prairie ; presenting several fine farms.
Population, 2,822 ; dwellings, 499 ; farms, 306; manufac
tories, 10.
DEWITT is the county-seat.
Washington county is handsomely diversified by timber
and prairie ; it has a rolling surface and is well watered by
streams, several of which furnish good water-powers, and
are profitably improved. In 1847 the population was
3,500 ; now it is 4,957 ; dwellings, 856 ; farms, 428.
The county-seat is WASHINGTON, a thriving town, situ
ated in a fine prairie, near a small branch of Skunk river.
Henry county is one of the best in this part of Iowa. It
contains much good prairie, a fair portion of timber, and is
196 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
watered by Skunk river. The population, in 1847, was
6,700; now it is 8,707; dwellings, 1,545; farms, 947;
manufactories, 26.
MOUNT PLEASANT is the county-seat, and is a beautiful,
thriving village, healthfully situated in a rolling prairie.
In the western, northern, and southern portions of
Iowa, on the farther borders of settlements, where the pop
ulation is very sparse, but the land and farming facilities
very good, there have recently — by the last session of the
Iowa Legislature — been many new counties established ;
and with their fine streams, fresh groves, rich soil, and the
low price of land, which that region possesses, it presents
many favorable inducements to emigrants; particularly,
where they can go in Companies, as the land is yet, most
of it, to be bought at Government prices, $1.25 per acre;
and persons organizing in Colonies, and locating there,
with reasonable industry and prudence, can soon make
pleasant and independent homes.
Help one another, and make that the universal motto,
and every one will have a vast amount of assistance, with
no opponents — each person will have all others for friends,
while none will have an enemy. Such will ever be the
effect of the Golden Rule, when practiced upon — wherein
each kindly and justly regards the rights and welfare of
every one — none are opponents, but the mass are continual
helpers to the individual.
RECAPITULATION. — Total population of Iowa, 192,214 ;
dwellings, 32,962 ; farms, 14,805 ; manufacturing estab
lishments, 482.
RIVERS. — The chief Rivers of this State are, the Mis
sissippi, Des Moines, Iowa, Keosauque, Little Iowa, Iowa,
Skunk, Cedar, Wabsipinecon, and some others. Of these,
the Des Moines, Iowa, and Cedar, are navigable in high
water, to distances varying from 50 to 100 miles up.
Most of them have abundance of lime or sand-rock, in
RAILROADS TO THE ATLANTIC. 197
their banks and bottoms, with considerable currents, and
generally skirted with good timber.
MINERALS. — Lead, iron, zinc, and copper ores, and stone
coal, are found in portions of Iowa, in greater or less quan
tities ; but lead is the most abundant. ".:__
Mr. Sargent closes his valuable little book, with some
suggestions on the advantages to be derived, by the East
ern cities, from a Railroad communication direct between
the Atlantic and Mississippi. His remarks are very just,
and beginning to be realized. He says :
" In the event of the construction of such an iron highway, the
provisions and other productions of the great Valley would reach
the principal Atlantic cities in less than four days. Were the pro
posed Road now in operation, flour, to the extent of three millions
of barrels, would be transported on it in the coming year. At
the same rates as charged on the Reading Road, produce could be
transported on the proposed highway, from the Mississippi river
to New York, at less than $14 per ton. On the Upper Mississippi
river, a few days past, the highest prices paid for provisions and
breadstuff's, from Keokuck to Galena, ranged as follows :
Wheat, best winter 50 cents per bushel.
Corn 15 cents do.
Pork, over 200 Ibs 2 cents per pound.
Beef 2£ cents do.
Venison , haunches 3 cents do.
Flour $3 50 to $4 00 per barrel.
" Could we open an iron avenue from the East to the West, our
Atlantic markets would, at all seasons, be bountifully supplied
with the surplus products of the Great West ; and in a very few
years after its completion, the aggregate tonnage transported on'
this great thoroughfare would reach the amount of tonnage now
annually transported on the Erie Canal.
" Our fellow- citizens of the East should liberally contribute to
farther the construction of the proposed great highway."
Railroad communication is now nearly completed be
tween the Atlantic and Mississippi. From New York to
Buffalo and Dunkirk there are even two lines ; and through
part of Pennsylvania and Ohio the iron highway is in
198 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
operation, with fair prospects of being speedily completed.
The western counties of Iowa are best reached by Steam
boats running on Missouri river. In ascending the river,
the first county reached is Fremont, LYNDEN the county-
seat. Austen is another fine town. It is a county of good
land, both prairie and timber. Pop. 1,244 ; dwellings, 222 ;
farms, 105. The next is Mills, of which I have not learned
the county-seat. Above this is Pottawattomie county ; it
embraces much good prairie and timber land, and is well
watered by Nishnabottany and Boyer rivers, the former
passing south through Mills and Fremont counties. There
are many points in this region possessing much interest as
connected with Indian Missions, Agencies, and Wars, in
which are located Forts Crogan, Calhoun, and old Council
Bluffs Agency. Population of Pottawattomie county is
7,900; dwellings, 1,500; farms, 90; manufactories, 6.
The county-seat is KANESVILLE, a flourishing village, pleas
antly situated on the prairie, at the old site of the Catho
lic Mission. The towns and counties in this region are be
ing fast filled up with immigrants ; and it is said to be a
superior wheat and stock raising country ; and was for
merly the favorite resort of buffalo and deer. It presents
an extensive scope of most charming and romantic scenery.
COUNCIL BLUFFS, and the Sub-Agency are in this coun
ty ; there are good Ferries here, across the Missouri and
other rivers near by to the westward. This place posses
ses importance from being on the direct line, and the most
Teasible crossing of the Missouri river, for those great Na
tional Improvements, the Pacific Telegraph and Railroad.
By reference to the Map, it will be seen that the Great
Route from Chicago, on the Lakes, crosses, the Mississippi
at Rock Island or Galena, the Missouri at Council Bluffs,
and thence to the South Pass, or other favorable point.
Above here are the new counties Harrison and Manona^
but thinly settled and attached to Pottawattomie county.
ILLINOIS.
WE now return from Minnesota,
Wisconsin, and Iowa, to ILLIWIS ;
and, although I have previously des
cribed some portions of it, in a gene
ral way ; I will now proceed to pre
sent its boundaries, topography, and
history, with other leading features ;
such is its counties, towns, population, business, prospects,
and such local peculiarities and curiosities as are met with
in traveling through the States; and also, such distinct
inducements as the different locations hold out to the new
comer ; that persons of different tastes and desires may
see, in the Portraiture here given, its various character
istics, and be able to choose to their liking, without the
task of traversing the whole country.
All of the States and Territories here described, are
connected with and deeply concerned in the navigation of
the Mississippi ; and none more so than Illinois ; for she
has a longer border on that noble river than any other
State. Hence, she must take a lively interest in whatever
tends to give greater safety or facilities to operations upon
its channel.
An important Convention assembled at BURLINGTON,
Iowa, on the 23d of October, 1851, to deliberate upon
measures for surmounting or removing the obstacles to
the easy navigation of the Mississippi, which are caused
200 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
by the Des Moines and Rock Island Rapids ; this Conven
tion was attended by Delegates from Minnesota, Wiscon
sin, Iowa, Illinois, and Missouri ; and their deliberations
will, no doubt, result beneficially for the object which
caused its meeting. The object is a deserving one, and
no doubt will meet a favorable response from Congress.
The first white settlements of the Lake and Mississippi
country were the result of the adventurous spirits of the
French explorers, among whom the most distinguished
were H. de Soto, Fathers Hennepin, La Salle, Marquette,
Joliet, and N. Perrat. The first of these was the first dis
coverer of the Mississippi in 1541 ; and the latter was the
first who made a voyage along the western shore of Lake
Michigan in 1670. At an early period Lake Michigan
was called Illinois lake ; and Chicago river was called
Miami s river.
About the year 1670, La Salle, Hennepin, and others,
made a voyage from Canada, by the lakes, to the Chicago
river, and then down the Illinois river, establishing posts
in that region. La Salle, leaving Hennepin in the coun
try, returned to Canada; and in 1673, came again to the
Mississippi, and established posts at Cahokia and Kaskaskia ;
and for many years all of the settlements in this country
were understood to be in a prosperous condition.
In 1763, upon the cessation of hostilities between the
French and English, the Illinois country was ceded to the
British Government. In 1765 Captain Sterling was put
in possession of the Illinois territory ; he was succeeded
bv Major Farmer, who in turn was succeeded by Colonel
Reed in 1766, in which year Illinois was annexed to Cana
da by Quebec Parliament. And after an oppressive and
unpopular administration of two years, he was displaced
by Colonel Wilkins, whose administration was more satis
factory to the people.
During the Revolutionary war, in 1778. General George
ILLINOIS HISTORY BOUNDARY DIMENSIONS. 201
R. Clarke made a campaign through the Indian country,
subjugating Forts Chartres and Kaskaskia, and other posts
on the Mississippi ; then returning, he took old Port Vin
cent, now Vincennes, in Indiana.
This region being a portion of the Northwestern Terri
tory, was principally under the jurisdiction of Virginia,
whose legislature, in 1778, organized a large portion of
what is now the State of Illinois, into the County of Illi
nois, and appointed a magistrate over it, to conduct its
minor judicial affairs.
In 1803, the Territory of Indiana was constructed, of
which Illinois was a portion. In 1809 Illinois was formed
into a Territory, and remained till December, 1818, when
it became an independent State ; from which time it pros
pered but slowly till after the Indian war.
Some of the battles' and massacres which occurred in
this state during the war of 1812, and the Black Hawk
war, present adventures and scenes of as thrilling interest
as any other part of the country.
By various treaties, the different tribes of Indians have
ceded all their lands to the whites, and they have enjoyed
almost entire freedom from Indian troubles for a long pe
riod, except during the Black Hawk war of 1832.
The boundaries of Illinois are as follows, as laid down
in Darby's Gazetteer :
" Illinois lies between Lake Michigan, the Wabash, Ohio, and
Mississippi rivers. It has a boundary on N. latitude, 42° 30', 210
miles ; along Lake Michigan and State of Indiana, Indiana to Wa
bash river, 216 ; down the Wabash to the junction with the Ohio,
150; down the Ohio to its junction with the Mississippi, 130;
thence up the Mississippi to the northwest angle of the state, 500 ;
having an outline of 1,206 miles.
Area, 58,900 square miles — equal to 35,696,000 acres. Extreme
S., N. latitude, 37°. Extreme N., N. latitude, 42" 30'. Greatest
length from the junction of Ohio and Mississippi to N. latitude 42°
— 380 miles ; mean width, 150 miles.
202 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" Illinois is the fourth State of the Union, in respect to extent
of territory, and the first in point of fertility of soil. Excepting
Georgia, it fs also the state whose climate and seasons differ most
at the north and south extremities. Extending through 5« of lati
tude, this state embraces the greatest extent N. and S. of any sec
tion of the U. S., New York only reaching through 4^, and Geor
gia about an equal distance. The latter is indebted to the greater
inequality of its surface for the superior variety of its climate.
"Illinois is a country of very little inequality of surface, com
pared with its great extent. The lower or southern part is rolling
rather than hilly; and not one eminence in the state, it is proba
ble, would reach 600 feet above the common level.
" In point of soil, Illinois admits a similar classification with
Ohio and Indiana ; though the former has more rich prairie than
the two latter. The state may be considered as rolling in its
southern and western, and level in its eastern and northeastern
sections.
"It has been determined by repeated experiments that loaded
boats of considerable size can pass from the Mississippi through
Illinois, into the Canadian sea, and vice versa. Very little current
is found in the small and very short streams which interlock with,
the sources of the Illinois, and flow into the southern extremity of
Lake Michigan ; therefore, the sources of Illinois cannot be much
above the surface of that Lake. Fifteen or twenty feet is as much
as the data before us will justify ; of course, the whole volume of
Illinois river, from a point opposite the head of Chicago river, in a
distance following the windings of upward of 400 miles, does not
fall 60 feet.
" The face of the globe may in vain be examined to find any
other spot, except the sources of Orinoco and the Ilio Negro, in
South America, where natural facility to internal communication
by water is equal to that we have this moment surveyed. If we
glance an eye over the immense regions thus connected ; if we re
gard the fertility of soil, the multiplicity of product which charac
terize these regions ; and if we combine those advantages afforded
by nature with the moral energy of the free and active people
which are spreading their increasing millions over its surface,
what a vista through the darkness of future time opens ! The
view is indeed almost too much for the faculties of man. We see
arts, science, industry, virtue, and social happiness, already in
creasing in those countries beyond what the most inflated fancy
would have dared to have hoped thirty or forty years ago."
NAME CENSUS PROGRESS. 203
At the time of the late war with Great Britain, loaded
boats, with men and munitions, passed out of Lake Michi
gan, through Chicago river into the O'Plain, thence to the
Illinois and Mississippi.
And now, by the Canal, with a single lock-lift, at Bridge
port, four miles from Chicago, an immense commerce is
carried on between Lake Michigan and the Southern
rivers.
The name which this state bears, early and for a long
period, belonged to all the Northwestern Territory. It
was derived from the Illini or Illinois, a tribe of Indians
which appear to have possessed the country situated on
both banks of the river of that name. They were noted
for their hospitality and generosity to strangers, and
their bravery and skill in war against their foes. Father
Hennepin informs us that the name, in the native lan
guage, signifies a full-grown, proper man ; and no tribe,
certainly, were superior to them, in all noble traits found
at all among Indians.
Illinois became a state in 1818, when it framed and
adopted its constitution, and was received into the Union
as the twenty-second State. The leading peculiarity in
the Constitution was to prohibit slavery, which had before
existed in the Territory.
The population of Illinois in 1820, was 55,211; in
1830, it was 157,455 ; in 1840, it was 476,183; in 1850,
it was 855,884 ; and in 1851, it is over one million.
Some hints in regard to the course to be pursued by
immigrants in the West may not be without benefit to
those persons.
Farmers from the Older States, where long cultivation
has furnished them with every convenience and luxury,
might find it somewhat troublesome to submit to the
plainer fare and occasional privations incident upon life in
a New Country. But to avoid this, as far as possible, it
204 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
will be well for the emigrant to make up his mind philo
sophically in the start, to cheerfully undergo these things,
throw aside some of his former habits, forget some of his
former easy blessings, and thus be prepared the better to
accommodate himself to the new state of things which he
is about to experience. I copy the following very truthful
delineation of the Western people, with some of their so
cial feelings, from an early Gazetteer of Illinois, by Mr.
PECK:
" No emigrant need deceive himself with the notion that he can
find a spot that will combine all the advantages, and none of the
disadvantages of the country.
" All positions will present some desirable and superior features
— some of the richest and finest inducements — while something ob
jectionable will appear, and some trifle be wanting. Yet, on the
whole, almost every spot is more inviting, for numerous reasons,
than the positions which have been left in the Older State.
" Let a man and family go into any of the frontier settlements,
get a shelter, or even camp out ; call on the people to aid him on
the start, and in three days' time he will have a comfortable cabin,
and become fully identified as a Settler. No matter how poor he
may be, or how much a stranger ; if he makes no apologies, does
not show a niggardly spirit by contending about trifles ; and espe
cially if he does not begin to dole out complaints about the coun
try, and the manners of the people, and tell them of the difference
and superiority of these things in the place whence he came, he
will be received with blunt, unaffected hospitality. But if a man
begin by affecting superior intelligence and virtue, and catechising
the people for their habits of rough simplicity, he may expect to be
marked, shunned, and ridiculed with some term of reproach.
" A principal characteristic of the Western population is a real
unaffected hospitality — a plain spirit of accommodation — they will
make every stranger welcome, if he will accept of it in their way.
He must make no complaint, throw out no insinuations, and mani
fest an equal readiness to be frank and hospitable in return. En
ter what house or cabin you may, if it is time of meals, you are
invited to share a portion ; but you must eat what is set before
you, making no invidious comparisons."
Nothing is truer in the West, than the homely phrase,
SALUBRITY PRESERVATION OF HEALTH. 205
" the latch-string always hangs out," and every one is wel
come to enter, who is willing to receive cheerfully.
Says Mr. FLINT, an early pioneer in the West :
" The most affectionate counsel we could give an immigrant,
after an acquaintance with all the districts of the Western Country
of sixteen years, is that he regard the salubrity of a spot selected,
as of more importance than fertility, or nearness to market.
"That he depend for health, on temperance, moderation in all
things, a careful conformity in food and dress to circumstances and
the climate ; and particularly, let him observe a rigid and undevi-
ating abstinence from that murderous western poison, whiskey,
which may be pronounced the prevalent miasm of the country.
Let every immigrant learn the art and provide the materials to
make good beer. Let him also, during the season of acclimation,
especially in the sultry months, take medicine by way of preven
tion, twice or thrice, with abstinence from labor a day or two
afterward. Let him have a Bible for a constant counselor, and a
few good books for instruction and amusement. Let him have the
dignity and good sense to train his family religiously and honestly.
" Let him cultivate a garden and choice fruit, as well as a fine
orchard. Let him keep bees, for their management unites pleasure
and profit. Let him prepare for silk-making on a small and grad
ual scale. Let him cultivate grapes by way of experiment. Let
him banish unreal wants, and learn the master secret of self-
possession, and be content with such things as he has, aware that
every position in life has advantages and trials. Let him assure
himself that if an independent farmer cannot be happy, no man can.
Let him magnify his calling, respect himself, envy no one, and
raise to the Author of all good constant aspirations of thankfulness
as he eats the bread of peace and privacy."
Emigrants to any of the Western States, wrill do well to
heed carefully the above wise suggestions, by one who
had long and intimate experience in the West.
As a pleasant little prelude in the general tenor of this
work, I will here present one of the happy features which
characterize some of the Western prairie homes; and
which exhibits some of the lovely but unexpensive embel
lishments which are made to beam around them by the
18
206 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
attention bestowed upon the gardens by the girls, whose
healths, beauty, and delights, are greatly enhanced by so
doing. It is not uncommon there, nor is it considered a
lack of good taste or true refinement, to see blooming girls
dressing the flowers, pruning the shrubbery, and culturing
the garden; they are all the happier and more charming
for it ; and the garden is among the objects to which they
proudly call the attention of their sweethearts upon their
afternoon visits. The following merry extract of a letter
from a little Western girl to her brother at the East, will
give a finer idea of the subject than any description of mine
will convey :
" And now, as I have nothing more very important to
write about, let me give you a short chapter on my flower-
garden, as I came in a little while ago from dressing it and
picking a sisterly boquette for you. Those grand Lady
Slippers you so much admired last summer, seem to have
grown very vain from the many fine compliments you lav
ished upon them, for they have come out in bran-new
dresses, of different hues, ' the gayest of the gay,' all seem
ing to vie with each other in richness and colors of dress.
But just let me introduce them to you in rhymes, along
with their neighbors :
The first is Miss Lovelawn, as sweet as a rose,
Her white satin slippers just hiding her toes ;
And the next is Miss Pink, so sparkling and free,
With her sister Carnation, as charming as she;
Dahlias, scarlet and purple, crimson and blue,
Bright sisters and cousins of every hue ;
Each looking as lovely as lovely can be,
Giving breakfasts and suppers to bird and to bee ; ,
Sweet Violets of purple, yellow and blue,
Which teach the thoughts of modesty ever true —
But this scratch of my pen 's too homely, I ween,
To present them to you as they'd wish to be seen.
And then there are their neighbors, the Morning Glories
and Four-o'clocks, at their own fashionable hours, looking
as pretty as any ; while the humming-birds pay their re-
HORSEBACK RIDING. 207
spects just as graciously to Sweet-Williams, Mullen Pinks,
and Marigolds, as to the others; then there stand the
Tiger Lilies, too, in their dignity and beauty, nodding
gracefully to passers-by ; beside the heaps of wild, sweet
Prairie Flowers, all casting up their bright little eyes to
us as we gaze on them ; but I fear you'll begin to get tired
of my light nonsense ; so, with a kiss and good morning,
I'll hasten off to school."
Such is one among the many pleasant features of youth
ful prairie life, which spring up into shining existence, un
der the hand of tasteful, independent, cheerful industry.
Another healthful and exhilarating amusement much in
dulged in by the ladies of the prairie country, is that of
riding on horseback ; and the skill of many of our femi
nine equestrians is masterly, and would meet the delighted
admiration of the gallant knights even of the chivalric
feudal days, or the exacting criticism of Napoleon ; and,
surely, often does receive the cooperative approval of the
joyous knights of their own neighborhood. Sometimes
the ladies may be seen in merry adventurous troops, unat
tended by the masculines, bounding away with wild joy
over the green fields, their glittering ringlets, and rich
sashes, and gay plumes, waving and flying in the breeze,
while the bright mane of their proud steeds is tossed lightly
in air over their gracefully curbed necks, as if they verily
appreciated the charming burdens they bore aw'ay with
such spirit and strength, seeming scarcely to touch the
ground in their elastic gallop.
It is a proud, a glorious sight, thus to see a beautiful girl
sit well and manage dexterously, in proper apparel, a
noble horse, as he dashes away over the fields, or through
the lawns ; a more charming object is seldom looked at.
No wonder that GRACE GREENWOOD evinced such glowing
poetic inspiration, when she wrote that admirable poem
on horseback-riding. Following are several detached lines
208 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
extracted from her poem on that subject. When the heart
is sad, or the spirits flag, she says :
" Then bring me, oh, bring me my gallant young steed,
With his high arched neck, and his nostrils spread wide,
His eye full of fire, and his step full of pride ;
As I spring to his back, as I seize the strong rein,
The strength of my spirit returneth again.
On, on speeds my courser, scarce printing the sod,
Scarce crushing a daisy to mark where he trod.
What a wild thought of triumph, that this girlish hand,
Such a steed in the might of his strength may command.
; What a glorious creature ; ah, glance at him now,
As I check Htm awhile on this green hillock's brow
How he tosses his mane with a shrill joyous neigh
And paws the firm earth in hia proud stately play ;
Ho, a ditch ! shall we pause ? no, the bold leap we will dare
Like a swift winged arrow we rush through the air.
" Oh, not all the pleasure that poets may praise,
Not the wildering waltz in the ball-room's blaze
Can the wild thrilling joy exceed
Of a fearless leap on a fiery steed."
From a work entitled, "Illinois in 1837," I make the
following extracts in regard to boundaries, face of the
country, etc. :
" The Act of Congress admitting this State into the Union pre
scribes the boundaries as follows : Beginning at the mouth of the
Wabash river, thence up the middle of the main channel thereof to
the point where a line drawn due north of Vincennes last crosses
that stream, thence due north to the northwest corner of the State
of Indiana, thence east with the boundary line of the same state
to the middle of Lake Michigan, thence due north along the
middle of said lake to north latitude 40° 30', thence west to the
middle of the Mississippi river, thence down the middle of the main
channel thereof to the mouth of the Ohio river, thence up the lat
ter stream along its northern or right shore to the place of begin
ning. The outline of the state is in extent about 1,160 miles, the
whole of which, except 305 miles, is formed by navigable lakes and
rivers.
TOPOGRAPHY ELEVATION. 209
" As a physical section, Illinois occupies the lower part of that
inclined plane of which Lake Michigan and both its shores are tho
higher sections, and which is extended into and embraces the much
greater part of Indiana. Down this plane, in a very nearly south
western direction, flow the Wabash and its confluents, the Kaskas-
kia, the Illinois and its confluents, and the Rock and Wisconsin
rivers. The lowest section of the plane is also the extreme south
ern angle of Illinois, at the mouth of the Ohio river, about 340
feet above tide-water, in the Gulf of Mexico. Though the State of
Illinois does contain some low hilly sections, as a whole, it may
be regarded as a gently inclining plane in the direction of its
rivers, as already indicated. Without including minute parts, the
extreme arable elevation may be safely stated at 800 feet above
tide-water, and the mean hight at 550.
" ' In some former period,' observes Mr. Schoolcraft, ' there has
been an obstruction in the channel of the Mississippi, at or near
Grand Tower, producing a stagnation of the current at an elevation
of about 130 feet above the present ordinary water-mark. This
appears evident from the general elevation and direction of the
hills, which for several hundred miles above are separated by a
valley from 20 to 25 miles wide, that deeply embosoms the current
of the Mississippi.'
" Wherever these hills exhibit rocky and abrupt fronts, a series
of waterlines are distinctly visible, and preserve a remarkable pa
rallelism uniformly presenting their greatest depression toward
the sources of the river; and, at Grand Tower, these water-lines
are elevated about one hundred feet above the summit of the stra
tum in which petrifactions of the madrepora and various fossil or
ganic remnins are deposited. Here the rocks of dark-colored
limestone, which pervade the country to a great extent, by their
projections toward each other, indicate that they have, at a remote
period, been disunited, if not by some convulsion of nature, by the
incessant action of the water upon a secondary formation, and that
a passage has been effected through them, giving vent to the stag
nant waters on the prairie lands above, and opening for the Missis
sippi its present channel.
" Next to Louisiana and Delaware, Illinois is the most level
State in the Union. A small tract in the southern part of the
state is hilly, and the northern portion is also somewhat broken.
There are likewise considerable elevations along the Illinois river,
and the bluffs of the Mississippi in some places might pass almost
for mountains. But by far the greater proportion of the state is
210 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
either distributed in vast plains, or in barrens, that are gently
rolling like the waves of the sea after a storm."
" GRAND PRAIRIE. — The largest prairie in Illinois is denomi
nated the Grand Prairie. Under this general name is embraced
the country lying between the waters falling into the Mississippi,
and those which enter the W abash rivers. It does not consist of
one vast tract, but is made up of continuous tracts with points of
timber projecting inward, and long arms of prairie extending be
tween. The southern points of the Grand Prairie are formed in
Jackson county, and extend in a northeastern course, varying in
width from one to twelve miles through Perry, Washington, Jeffer
son, Marion, Fayette, Effingham, Coles, Champaign, and Iroquois
counties, where it becomes connected with the prairies that project
eastward from the Illinois river. A large arm lies in Marion
county, between the waters of Crooked creek and the east fork of
the Kaskaskia river, where the Vincennes road passes through.
This part alone is frequently called the Grand Prairie.
" Much the largest part of the Grand Prairie is gently undula
ting, rich, and fertile land; but of the southern portion, consider
able tracts are flat, and of rather inferior soil. No insurmount
able obstacle exists to its future population. No portion of it is
more than six or eight miles distant from timber; and coal in
abundance is found in most parts. Those who have witnessed the
changes pr(. ;Iuced upon a prairie surface within twenty or thirty
years, consider these extensive prairies as offering no serious im
pediment to the future growth of the state.
" Dr. BECK, in his Gazetteer of Missouri, published in 1823,
describes the uplands of St. Louis county as generally prairie ;
but almost all of that tract of country thus described is now cov
ered with a young growth of fine thrifty timber, and it would be
difficult to find an acre of prairie in the county. This important
change has been produced by keeping the fires out of the prairies.
" The first improvements are usually made on that part of the
prairie which adjoins the timber ; and thus we may see, at the
commencement, a range of farms circumscribing the entire prairie.
The burning of the prairies is then stopped through the whole dis
tance of the circuit in the neighborhood of these farms, to prevent
injury to the fences and other improvements. This is done by
plowing two or three furrows all round the settlement. In a
short time the timber springs up spontaneously on all the parts
not burned, and the groves and forests commence a gradual en
croachment on the adjacent prairies ; by-and-by you will see
INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 211
another tier of farms springing up on the outside of the first, and
farther out on the prairie ; and thus farm succeeds farm, as the
timber grows up, until the entire prairie is occupied."
Some of these prairies are so broad, and portions of
them so far from timber, that it is rather a laborious task
for persons of limited means and small help to commence
a farm in their midst. In such cases union of effort, in
colonies, will be found advantageous.
In 1836-7 to 1840 Illinois projected extensive and ex
travagant schemes of Railroads and Canals, much beyond
her ability to perfect; consequently, there followed the
general smash and confusion of a universal suspension.
She has again entered upon a still more magnificent
scheme of Railroad building, extending many important
lines through various parts of the State ; but now under
very different circumstances. She has completed her
great Canal — one of the most splendid works in the Union
— and it is doing an immense and increasing business, the
receipt of tolls this year largely exceeding the receipts
for any previous year. Portions of several of her Rail
roads are also completed, and in successful, profitable
operation.
These things have established a sound and healthy con
fidence, among capitalists, in her resources and facilities,
to an extent that Eastern Capitalists now freely invest
their surplus funds in her lines, which insures their speedy
completion; the productiveness of Agricultural opera
tions being proved ample t6 furnish them with profitable
employment ; the State being now numerously settled-up
and cultivated by industrious, enterprising farmers, who
annually raise millions of produce for export east and
south. These facts, with others, afford fair guarantee that
suspension will not again take place, as in past times.
And what is here said of Illinois, is also true in regard
to Wisconsin and Iowas to a considerable extent.
212 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
To give an idea of the extent and location of projected
Railroads in Illinois ; some of which are constructed,
others under contract for speedy completion, and others
still with the stocks subscribed and the works in charge
of engineers, who are busily running out the routes.
The Galena and Chicago Union Railroad is designed to
connect the Mississippi river with Lake Michigan ; already
some sixty miles of it is in operation, west from Chicago
to MARENGO. By December it will be completed to BEL-
VIDERE, Boone county ; and in January following, it is to
be in operation to KOCKFORD, Winnebago county. At
this point it will be intersected by the Union Rock River
Railroad; from BELOIT and other towns in the Upper
Rock river country, in Wisconsin, and to run south down
the river. These lines will furnish a favorable medium
of transportation for a wide, fertile, Farming region, be
side a rich portion of the mineral ]ancls ; as the Road will
be completed during the year, through FREEPORT, Stephen-
son county to GALENA, Jo Daviess county. Between
CHICAGO and ELGIN, branches switch off to AURORA, ST.
CHARLES, and BATAVIA, towns on Fox river. This line
and its branches make about 200 miles.
The Sangamon and Morgan Railroad commences at
NAPLES, on the Illinois river in Scott county, and runs
east through JACKSONVILLE in Morgan county, to SPRING
FIELD in Sangamon county, and to be continued still on
eastward.
The Illinois Central Railroad is the longest and most
important line in Illinois ; and some five corps of engi
neers are now engaged in exploring the routes for the
main trunk and branches. It is to run through nearly the
entire length of the State, from CAIRO in the southern ex
tremity, to CHICAGO on Lake Michigan. It is to have two
branches ; one, running to GALENA, for the convenience
of the northwestern part of the state, lying between the
INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 213
Mississippi and Illinois rivers ; the other running through
the northeastern portion of the state, to accommodate that
part of the state lying between the Wabash and Illinois
rivers.
This line is also to be extended southward, to MOBILE,
in Alabama, on the Gulf of Mexico, by the Southern
States.
The whole route, as contemplated' by Congress, in
making the grant of land for its construction, is denomi
nated The Chicago and Mobile, Railroad. It passes through
the center of the State of Illinois by the route already
surveyed, and from which there will not be any material
deviation by the farther surveys now being made. It will
cross the Illinois river at La Salle and Peru ; and the
Ohio at Cairo. By the conditions of the Charter granted
to a Company of capitalists, this road must be constructed
to Cairo within the next six years. It will involve an ex
penditure of between sixteen and twenty millions of dol
lars. Through the exertion of Judge Douglas, Senator
Breese, and others, who are resident in Illinois, an appro
priation of alternate sections of the public land along the
line of the road was obtained - from the General Govern
ment, wrhich insures its construction. Its eastern branch
will bring into cultivation a body of land in the interior,
at present removed from market, containing many miles
hitherto unsettled. Such, too, must be the case in the
counties along the Wabash river, dividing Illinois from
Indiana. The Road must transfer much of the travel and
business from the Mississippi to the Central parts of this
State, making Illinois the center, in many respects, of the
Great Valley, having within its borders the principal artery
of communication North and South.
That portion of this long line which lies in Illinois is
termed the " State Central Road," from Cairo to Chicago,
Galena, and Dubuque.
214 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
The title to the act of Congress making the grant of
land, reads :
" ' An Act granting the right of way and making a grant of land
to the States of Illinois, Mississippi, and Alabama, in aid of the
construction of a Railroad from Chicago to Mobile,' passed Sep
tember 20, 1850."
After Congress had made this munificent donation, or
rather appropriation, of land, to those States, the Illinois
Legislature passed an act, chartering a Company, and
transferred to it these lands to construct the Road. Sen
ator Douglas, in a letter in relation to this matter, says :
" This Charter transfers to the Central Railroad Company all
the lands which the State of Illinois received from the United
States in pursuance of that act of Congress, and imposes upon the
Company all the obligations which our State assumed in consider
ation of that grant of land, which obligations the Company pledged
itself by the acceptance of the Charter faithfully to perform.
" The act of Congress grants to the State of Illinois a quantity
of land equal the alternate section for six miles on each side of
said Road and branches, and at the same time increases the price
of the other alternate sections to two dollars and fifty cents per
acre, so that the United States would receive for the remaining
half of the lands as much as they would for the whole. It was the
enhancement of the value of the public lands upon each side of
the Road that constituted the inducement to get the grant. It
was upon this principle that the measure was successfully vindi
cated and sustained by its friends. The lands had been in market
upon an average of twenty odd years, at one dollar and a quarter
per acre, and had failed to find purchasers ; not because the lands
were not rich and fertile, but in consequence of their remoteness
from markets, and the absence of timber. The Railroad would
supply both of these deficiencies, and thus' render desirable that
which was before comparatively valueless."
The third clause of the fifteenth section thus defines the
routes which shall be pursued in laying this Road and its
branches :
*' That said Company shall proceed to locate, survey, and lay
out, construct and complete said Road and branches, through the
INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 215
entire length thereof — the main trunk thereof, or central line, to
run from the city of Cairo to the southern termination of the Illi
nois and Michigan Canal, passing not more than five miles from
the northeast corner of township twenty-one north, range two
east of the third principal meridian ; and nowhere departing
more than seventeen miles from a straight line between said city
of Cairo and said southern termination of said Canal ; with a
branch running from the last mentioned point, upon the most eli
gible route to the city of Galena ; thence to a point on the Missis
sippi river, opposite the city of Dubuque, in the State of Iowa;
with a branch also diverging from the main track at a point not
north of the parallel of thirty-nine and a half degrees north lati
tude, and running on the most eligible route into the city of Chi
cago on Lake Michigan."
The Illinois and Wisconsin Railroad, to run southeast
from FON DU LAC, head of Lake Winnebago, in Wiscon
sin, through JANESVILLE, WOOSTOCK, Big Foot Prairie,
to CHICAGO, has been located, and considerable of it put
under contract for speedy construction.
This is an important route, passing through the upper
Rock river valley, and leaving Wisconsin in Walworth
county, and entering Illinois in McHenry county ; thus
lying in a superior agricultural district.
The Green Bay and Chicago Railroad is another im
portant line connecting Illinois and Wisconsin. It will
probably follow the Lake-shore route, running through
those flourishing and beautiful towns, which have grown
up to wealth and elegance with such rapidity in the last
few years. By this route the distance will be not far
from 160 miles.
Another important Railroad to Northern Illinois, is the
one projected between CINCINNATI and CHICAGO. Much
effort is being put forth to have it pushed forward with
energy and rapidity.
A glance at the map, to see the district of country this
line must run through, will show its vast use.
The Rock Island and Chicago Railroad is still another
216 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
very important line, connecting the Mississippi and Illi
nois rivers with Lake Michigan. Its western terminus is
at EOCK ISLAND ; thence to run eastward to the Illinois at
PERU and LA SALLE, and thence up the valleys of the
Illinois and O'Plain rivers to Chicago, through a rich,
well populated country, and many fine thriving towns ; it
is under contract, the work commenced, and will progress
to a speedy completion, bringing Rock Island within
some four hours of Peru, and six or seven hours of Chi
cago.
The Railroads eastward are already in operation to the
Indiana State line, and in a few months will be completed
to Chicago, which will place that city within 36 to 40
hours of New York.
These Roads, therefore, with its other mediums of com
munication, must make CHICAGO the center or depot of an
immense and constantly increasing commerce and popula
tion, second only in importance to one or two Atlantic
cities.
The Alton and Terre Haute Railroad is an important
line, and is in the hands of those who will push it ener
getically through. Alton alone has taken over $100.000
of the stock. This line is to connect the Wabash and
Mississippi rivers at the places named in the title above.
Northern Cross Railroad. — This is a line to connect
QUINCY, on the Mississippi, with CLAYTON, GALESBURG,
and other towns in the interior of the State ; and there is
now a fair prospect of the early completion of the first
twenty to thirty miles of the Northern Cross Railroad,
from Quincy to Clayton, within the next twelve months.
The grading is already in a state of forwardness, and the
Directors have recently completed a contract with respon
sible parties for furnishing the materials and laying down
the superstructure. The contract price is $6,493 per
mile, and the parties agree to take the bonds of the city
INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS SPORTING. 217
of Quincy for $100,000 at par, that being the amount
subscribed by the city, in its corporate capacity.
The survey of the Peoria and Oquawka Railroad has
been made, and the stock being mostly taken, the auspices
are favorable for the rapid construction of the Road. It
is to connect the Mississippi and Illinois rivers at the places
named in their title.
-Thus I have given the name, location, and state of pro
gress, of most of the important Roads in the State, the
construction of which must speedily enhance the value of
wild lands in the West, and lead to their rapid settlement
and cultivation.
Considerable effort is being made to have a Railroad
constructed from CINCINNATI to ST. Louis, through the
southern* part of Illinois, and cross the Central Railroad
in that region.
The fine Map which accompanies this work, will show
most of the lines of Railroads, though I cannot give them
with precision, as it is not yet known through what towns,
in all their length, they will pass ; but it is the aim of
the author to have every thing as correct as circumstances
will permit.
Of all the various sports in hunting and fishing, of the
West, none is more intensely interesting than that of
shooting prairie chickens ; it is done with a perfect vigor
and activity ; there is little of the patience and waiting
that is required, when lying in wait at the " run ways"
for deer ; or the wary ambush for taking wild turkeys ;
or the stealth and slewT- wading for geese and ducks ; but it
is lively walking and expectation, to keep up with the skill
ful dog, who ranges through the grass to discover, and
" set," and " start" the bird, and the quick shooting to
take them by couplets, before they are too far flown for
your shot to reach. It is a "fast operation," in which the
adept, with a well trained dog, where the birds are plenty,
19
218 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
will take fifty to an hundred in an afternoon, with very
few more than that number of shots. These birds are
found in great numbers throughout the Western Prairies
generally ; though they incline to disappear as cultivation
advances ; they are rather larger than the pheasant of
New York and New England, but somewhat resembling
it, and equally luscious for the table. In winter time
they are shot from the trees, the cornfields, and isolated
haystacks, to which they sometimes resort in that season ;
but in the spring and summer they are really unfit to eat,
and should not be killed, especially in the season of laying
and hatching ; yet, some inconsiderate and gross minded
people will even then destroy them, from no other motive
than an idle disposition for destruction. They are the
best eating, and the greatest sport is enjoyed in taking
them, after about the first of September, when the young
chickens are large enough to make a good mark and afford
fine dishes.
The grass of the prairies is then waving and high, the
flowers bright and fragrant, which perfectly secret the birds,
and then it is highly amusing to see the dog bound away
in a circuit of from 20 to 50 or 100 rods in pursuit; when
he comes up to a covey of the birds he manifests it to his
master by suddenly stopping, stretches himself out, ly
ing closer to the ground, his nose pointed straight ahead,
and his tail straight back, and as he slowly walks toward
them his tail begins to wag gently, the birds squat snugly
in the grass so that a person could not see them, but as
" setter" leads nearly on to them they rise and sail grace
fully away in a horizonly line, a few feet above the grass,
not very swiftly, curving a little to the right or left, afford
ing the finest possible opportunity for the hunter to make
a couple of shots and take a brace of them.
That sport which comes nearest to the delights of this
which I have just described, is a branch of Sir Izak's art ;
TROUT FISHING ROCK RIVER COUNTRY. 219
that of taking the glittering trout from our sparkling
brooks of the north ; this is a percussion operation ; the
"fly, bearing the hidden hook, dips upon the water, trouty
snaps it with his shiny mouth, and the next instant a
spring of Izak junior's pole causes it to bid a last fare
well to its native home ; after passing through various de
grees of tuition in the culinary scene-room it takes a ward
robe of butter and flour, with perfume of pepper and salt,
passes the fervid ordeal of frying-pan, and soon simmers
on a plate beside the sparkling champaign, under the
chuckling chin of Burley Buster, or is genteely dissected
by the tiny fingers of la Belle, who knows right well how
to exert the arts that shall entrap larger troutys into her
captive nets, when she thinks it worth her while to angle
for them. There is much fine trout fishing in Wisconsin,
Iowa, arid Minnesota ; and although in Illinois they are
rarely found, still there is abundance of many other fine
varieties of fish, such as bass, pickerel, catfish, buffaloes,
redhorse, etc., with occasional sturgeon and eels.
ROCK RIVER COUNTRY. — No portion of the West is re
marked with more favor and admiration than this ; and it
holds about the same relation that the Genesee country
does to the East.
It is situated in the northern part of the state, and wa
tered by Rock river and its branches. It is a fertile agri
cultural region, combining all the advantages of a rich and
fruitful soil, a healthy and temperate climate, a fine river,
and clear perennial streams, affording excellent mill-seats,
together with many of the most useful and important min
erals.
Rock river rises in Wisconsin, about midway between
Lake Michigan and the Wisconsin river. Its course in
Illinois is about 180 miles in extent. It receives its most
important tributary, the Peckatonica, from the lead region,
a few miles below the northern boundary of the State.
220 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
The Eock River Country may be considered as embracing,
not only the parts which border immediately upon that
stream, but all those portions of the surrounding territory
which contribute directly to the development and employ
ment of the resources of Rock river valley.
In this view may be included the mineral wealth and
agricultural advantages of the Peckatonica and its branches,
with the Kishwaukee and its branches.
The bottom lands of these streams, usually about a
mile and a half wide, are seldom surpassed in fertility.
Beside other causes which have combined for centuries to
produce the same result, the wash of the bluffs enriches
the plain below by its deposit. Like the American Bot
tom, below the mouth of Illinois river, which has been
cultivated for more than a hundred years, the fertility of
most of Rock river and Upper Mississippi bottoms is in
destructible. On such a soil, under proper cultivation, 100
bushels of corn and 40 bushels of wheat to the acre are
raised with facility ; when you ascend to the elevated table
land — which is generally characteristic of the bluffs beyond
the breaks — gullies formed by springs and drains on the
edge of the bluffs, most usually the soil is of the richest
kind, high and dry, and fanned, in the. warmest days of
summer, by breezes of the most refreshing character.
These breezes, however, become cold winds in winter, as
the traveler can sensibly attest.
There can be no doubt of this region being eminently
healthy. The country is supplied bountifully with water
from good springs, and the air is equal to that on the
mountains in purity. It is even thought that the neigh
borhood of Rock Island will one day be the resort of
rich invalids, and men of leisure from the south, on account
of its double charm of salubrity of atmosphere and pic-
turesqu'eness of scenery. The existence of a copious white
sulphur spring near Rock Island, of medical virtues equal,
SANGAMON ILLINOIS BEEF. 221
perhaps, to the waters of any of the celebrated springs in
the United States, gives strength to the idea.
Above all countries, this is the land of flowers. In the
season every prairie is an immense flower-garden. In the
early stages of spring flowers, the prevalent tint is peach-
blow ; the next is a deeper red ; then succeeds the yellow ;
and to the latest period of autumn, the prairies exhibit a
brilliant golden, scarlet, and blue carpeting, mingled with
the green and brown ripened grass.
SANGAMON RIVER COUNTRY. — The region through which
the Sangamon river passes, and its tributaries, is an ex
ceedingly fertile one ; of undulating prairies interspersed
with springs, brooks, and groves. The inhabitants reside
chiefly on the borders of the prairies, next to the timber,
where they have made many splendid farms.
This country is one of the best for raising stock in the
State ; the summer range for cattle is inexhaustible, and
the amount of excellent hay that may be made every sea
son from the rich prairies is almost without limit; and
horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, can be raised here with but
little trouble and expense, compared with the Eastern
States. The mildness of the climate has not unfrequently
relieved the owners from all care and expense of feeding
them through the winter ; though it is generally necessary
to feed from the commencement of December until March.
It has been frequently remarked that both horses and cat
tle fatten quite as fast in the spring and summer, on the
wild grass of the prairies, as upon the tame pastures of the
East. And the richness and flavor of the beef thus fatten
ed has been much esteemed, and generally reckoned of the
finest quality by all who have tried it. Illinois beef has
no superior in the Atlantic market, and is received with
high favor even beyond the ocean.
At the great World's Fair, even the beef packed by
WADSWORTH, DYER, and CHAPIN, and others at, and ship-
222 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
ped from, Chicago, received much attention and credit ; this
beef was fattened upon the prairies almost entirely.
Much stock is also raised in the Rock, Fox, O'Plain. and
Illinois river countries, as well as in the regions of the San-
gamon, and other streams of the State.
But it is to be regretted that Western farmers have not,
to a greater extent, and in a better manner, engaged in
the Dairy business. There is nowhere a better field, nor
one where butter and cheese can be made to greater ad
vantage, or of better quality, than upon the great Western
Prairies.
SPRINGFIELD, the Capital of Illinois, is in Sangamon
county, of which it is also the county-seat. It is very
nearly central in the State, being about 197 miles nearly
north of its southern angle in the junction of the Mississippi
and Ohio rivers ; 185 south of the northern boundary of
the State; 114 west of the Wabash river, the eastern
boundary ; and 90 miles' east of the Mississippi, the west
ern boundary.
This central position, with its delightful location, pointed
to Springfield as a most appropriate place for the permanent
location of the State Capital, which it became in 1840, by a
previous act of the Legislature. From 1818 up to this
time it was located at VANDALIA, a town on the west bank
of Kaskaskia river, some 70 miles southeast of Springfield.
Previous to that time, the Seat of Government was at
KASKASKIA, also on the west bank of that river, about 100
miles southwest of Vandalia.
The new locations thus successively selected, at each
transit of the Capital, indicates pretty fairly the course of
the greatest increase of population in this State — in earlier
times, its largest portion of population being in the south
ern part of the State ; but latterly, the northern part is
getting much the start.
Springfield is located four miles south of the Sangamon
SANGAMON COUNTY. 223
river, on the borders of a broad and charming prairie —
adorned with many rich and finely cultivated farms, and
elegant rows and groves of planted trees — stretching away
in every direction to the blue line of distant forests. It
was laid out about the year 1824; and, for the first eight
or ten years, contained little else than a few scattered log-
cabins ; all its present business, wrealth, and importance,
dating from about the year 1831. Its pleasant, green
squares and lawns, with the accompanying shade trees, add
vastly to the beauty and comfort of the place ; it contains
good schools, and splendid public buildings ; its population
now reaches five or six thousand.
Sangamon is a county of superior land, which is exten
sively settled and improved. This county has its charms
and inspiration for the poet, as will be seen by the follow
ing extract :
" All who have visited this fine tract of country admire the beauty
of the landscape which nature has painted in primeval freshness.
So delightful a region was early selected by immigrants from New
England, New York, and North Carolina: more than 200 families
had settled themselves here before it was surveyed. It now consti
tutes several populous counties, inhabited by thriving farmers.
" ' Arcadian vales, with vine-hung bowers,
And grassy nooks, 'neath beechen shade,
Where dance the never-resting hours,
To music of the bright cascade ;
Skies softly beautiful, and blue,
As Italy's, with stars as bright ;
Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue,
And gorgeous as the gemm'd midnight.
Land of the West ! green Forest-Land,
Thus hath Creation's bounteous hand
Upon thine ample bosom flung
Charms such as were her gift when the gray world was young.'
" The prairies frequently contain fine groves of timber, some of
which, from their appearance, have received the name of Elk-heart
Grove, Buffalo-heart Grove, etc. These groves are generally eleva
ted above the surrounding prairie, and are most advantageous sit
uations for settlements."
224 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
OKAU RIVER COUNTRY. — Another body of nearly as ex
tensive and productive land lies along the course of the
Kaskaskia, or Okau river. This stream has a long course
through central and southwestern Illinois — a tract of coun
try diversified with prairie and forest. Many of the streams
which empty into the Okau have considerable fall, suffi
cient for mill-sites. Many portions of the country along
this river are thickly settled and well cultivated.
Nearly two thirds of this rich and handsome section of
the State is prairie, which some people urge as an objec
tion ; but the great abundance of coal and peat to be found
in the same region, together with the ease with which tim
ber can be floated down the streams, from where it is more
plenty, and the rapidity with which locust, walnut, chest
nut, and some other varieties of trees can be made to
grow, very greatly diminish the inconvenience; of sparse
forest growths.
Beside, wire fences are cheap, durable, and answer an
admirable purpose.
This matter of wire fences is becoming an object of con
siderable attention in the prairie countries, and has been
adopted with success and advantage in several locations.
The wire can be galvanized, so as to prevent its rusting ;
or, a still better mode can be adopted, that of affixing little
cups or reservoirs at the joints, or other places in the wire,
of different metal than the iron, wrhere a small portion of
acid or moisture may be constantly deposited, which will
keep up, at all times, a slight galvanic current, and will
preserve the wire from decay by oxydation, almost en
tirely.
But when we consider how much lighter is the inconve
nience of this lack of timber, than is the task of chopping,
logging, and clearing heavy-timbered lands ; and how much
more pleasant are smooth fields, free of stumps and trees,
than are the opposite, we see that, after all, these prairie
MILITARY BOUNTY TRACT. 225
farms are the most profitable and pleasant, if selected where
water for stock is readily procured.
MILITARY BOUNTY TRACT. — The region generally de
nominated the Military Bounty Tract, was surveyed during
the years 1815 and 1816, and the greater part subsequently
appropriated in bounties to the soldiers of the regular army,
who served in the late war between the United States and
Great Britain. It is situated between the rivers Missis
sippi and Illinois, and extends from their junction due north
by a meridian line, denominated the fourth principal me
ridian, 169 miles, presenting an irregular, curvilinear trian
gle, the acute angle of which is at the junction of these two
rivers. From this point the two rivers diverge, so as to
make a distance of 90 miles between the extreme points of
the northern boundary. Halfway between the extremes,
the width is 64 miles. The base line running due east and
west, and commencing just above Quincy, on the Missis
sippi, and terminating at the Illinois, a little below Beards-
town, intersects the fourth principal meridian at right an
gles above the junction of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers.
The whole tract, according to the public surveys, con
tains 207 entire townships, of six miles square, and 61 frac
tional townships — altogether 5,360,000 acres, of which
3,500,000 have been appropriated in military bounties.
This tract of country lies between 38° 54' and 41 o 40" of
north latitude, and 13° west longitude from Washington
City, and bounded on the southwest for 255 miles by the
Mississippi river, and for about the same distance on the
southeast by the Illinois. Thus do these two great rivers,
in their diverging course, with Rock river approximating
from the north, form a spacious peninsula, furnishing a
border to the bounty lands by a sheet of navigable waters
for steamboats more than 500 miles in extent, leaving no
part of the tract more than 45 miles, and the greater part
not exceeding 20 miles from steamboat navigation.
220 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
The water communication now completed between the
Mississippi and the lakes, by means of the Illinois and Chi
cago Canal, greatly increases the value of the bounty lands,
by affording a choice of markets for their products, either
at Chicago, Detroit, Buffalo, New York, Montreal, or Que
bec, by way of the Illinois Canal and the Lakes, or by the
natural channels of the Rivers south, at St. Louis and New
Orleans.
In the interior of the tract, traversing it in various direc
tions, are several rivers and creeks of less consequence, in
a commercial point of view, but nevertheless of great util
ity to the settlements in their vicinity. Of these, Spoon,
Henderson, Edwards, and Pope's rivers, and Crooked,
Kickapoo or Red Bud, Copperas, Otter, McKee's, McCra-
ney's, Hadley's Mill, and Bear creeks, are the most con
siderable.
About two thirds of this tract is timbered, and the other
third is mostly prairie of good quality. It has become
considerably settled, and yearly furnishes considerable
amounts of products for export. Corn, wheat, barley,
hemp, and potatoes, are the principal productions.
BOTTOM LANDS. — Those alluvial lands, along the rivers,
in the Eastern States, called " intervals," are termed Bot
tom Lands, in the West. Portions of them are overflow
ed part of the year, during high freshets in the rivers.
Most of the Western rivers present more or less of this kind
of land.
The most extensive tract, of this description, in this
State, is the American Bottom, a name it received when it
constituted the western boundary of the United States, and
which it has retained ever since. It commences at the
confluence of the Kaskaskia river with the Mississippi, and
extends northwardly to the mouth of the Missouri ; being
bounded on the east by a chain of bluffs, which in some
places are sandy and in others rocky, and which vary from
HEALTH VEGETATION. 227
50 to 200 feet in hight. This bottom is about 80 miles in
length, and comprises an area of about 450 square miles,
or 288,000 square acres. On the margin of the river is a
strip of heavy timber, with a rank undergrowth : this ex
tends from a half to two miles in width, and from thence
to the bluffs is generally prairie. No soil can exceed this
in fertility, many parts of it having been under cultivation
for more than a century without apparent deterioration.
The only objection offered to this tract is its unhealthi-
ness. This arises from the circumstance of the lands di
rectly on the margin of the river being higher than those
under the bluffs, where the water, after leaving the former,
sets back and forms ponds and lagoons* which during the
summer stagnate and throw off noxious effluvia. These,
however, might, at a trifling expense, be drained by lateral
canals communicating with the rivers. The first settlement
of this State was commenced upon the tract of land above
described, and its uncommon fertility gave emigrants a
favorable idea of the wyhole country. Cultivation has, no
doubt, done much to render this region more healthy than
it formerly was. It will be recollected that a few years
ago, Lotteries were numerously got up in the West, de
clared for the specious purpose of Draining the American
Bottoms ; but we have never learned that they produced
any such beneficial results, although many thousand dol
lars worth of tickets were sold for years.
I will here notice an error of the old inhabitants, in re
gard to a philosophical fact in vegetation. They recom
mended the settlers not to plant corn near their dwellings
on this tract ; as its luxuriant growth prevented the sun
from dispelling the bad vapors. This is erroneous doc
trine ; as luxuriant growths of vegetation absorb or take in
the carbon and other gases, deleterious to human health, at
the same time they give off oxygen, so essential to the ex
istence of life. It is the gases and vapors arising from
228 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
dead and decaying, not live, vegetables which destroy health.
Hence, the unhealthiness of the first breaking up of a new
country — it sends up and scatters to the winds clouds of
effluvia from long rotted vegetation of years past, which
fresh green vegetation will absorb before it can reach man's
lungs.
And much on the same grounds, from similar causes, is
a region where much fruit blooms and ripens more healthy
than before it existed ; these orchards taking in from the
air (carbon) what man does not want, and giving off (oxy
gen) what he does need. If only for their salubrious influ
ence, the early planting and raising of orchards in new
countries is highly desirable and profitable. The same re
sults do not follow from the proximity of tall natural for
ests, as they are so high as to shade off the warming, dry
ing operations of the sun, while their chemical operations
are carried on, mostly, in an upper stratum or current of
air above the region of man's respiring.
These things or principles are highly worthy the careful
and extended considerations of farmers, particularly in new
countries.
TIMBERED LAND. — As a whole, Illinois is abundantly sup
plied with timber ; and were it equally distributed through
the State, there would be no part wanting. The apparent
scarcity of timber, where the prairies predominate, is not
so great an obstacle to the settlement as has been sup
posed. For many of the purposes to which timber is ap
plied, substitutes are found. The rapidity with which the
young growth pushes itself forward, without a single effort
on the part of man, and the readiness with which the prai
ries become converted into thickets, and then into a forest,
shows that, in another generation, timber will not be want
ing in any part of Illinois.
The timber of the bottom lands consists of black and
white M'alnut, ash of several species, hackberry, elm (white
TIMBER LAND INDIANS. 229
and slippery), sugar-maple, honey-locust, buck-eye, catalpa,
sycamore, cottonwood, pecan, hickory, mulberry ; several
oaks — as, over-cup, burr-oak, swamp or water oak, white,
red, or Spanish oak ; and of the shrubbery are red-bud,
papaw, grape-vine, eglantine, dog-wood, spice-bush, hazel,
greenbrier, etc. Along the margin of the streams the
sycamore and cottonwood often predominate, and attain to
an amazing size. The cottonwood is of rapid growth, a
light, whitewood, sometimes used for rails, shingles, and
scantlings ; not lasting, and of no great value. Its dry,
light wood is much used in steamboats. It forma the
chief proportion of the driftwood that floats down the riv
ers, and is frequently converted into planters, snags, and
sawyers. The sycamore is the buttonwood of New En
gland, is frequently hollow, and in that state procured by
the farmers, cut at suitable lengths, cleaned out, and used
as depositories for grain. It is the gum-tree of the negro
plantations. They answer the purpose of large casks.
The size of the cavity of some of these trees appears in
credible in the ears of a stranger to the luxuriant growth
of the West. To say that twenty or thirty men could be
comfortably lodged in one, would seem a monstrous fic
tion to a New Englander, but to those accustomed to
this species of tree on the bottoms, it is nothing marvel
ous.
The uplands are covered with various species of oak, among
which is the post-oak, a valuable and lasting timber for posts ;
white oak, black oak of several varieties, and blackjack,
a dwarfish, gnarled looking tree, good for nothing but fuel,
for which it is equal to any tree we have ; of hickory, both
the shagbark and smoothbark, black walnut in some parts,
'white walnut or butternut, Lynn, cherry, and many of the
species produced in the bottoms. The black walnut is
much used for building materials, and cabinet work, and
sustains a fine polish. The different species of oaks, wal-
20
230 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
nuts, hackberry, and occasionally hickory, are used for
fencing.
In some parts of the State the white and yellow poplar
prevails. Beginning at the Mississippi, a few miles above
the mouth of Muddy river, and extending a line to the
mouth of Little Wabash, leaves the poplar range south,
interspersed with beach. Near the Ohio, on the low creek
bottoms, the cypress is found. No poplar exists on the
eastern borders of the State till you arrive near Palestine ;
while on the opposite shore of the Wabash, in Indiana, the
poplar and beach predominate.
Of the noble forests of the West; and of the harsh,
stern policy of our people, which is fast extinguishing the
Aboriginal races of this continent, Miss FRANCES FULLER
has written the following eloquent and beautiful lines :
" Proud forests ! ye stately old woods of the West,
In what glorious hues are your aged boughs dress'd !
How bravely ye stand in your gorgeous pride,
Decked out in the robes that old autumn hath dyed ;
Yet my heart hath grown sadder while gazing on ye,
And list'ning the voices that sigh from each tree,
For they tell of the red man — the child of the Wood —
And his form seems to rise in the dim solitude ;
And now when the autumn winds sigh through the trees,
His voice haunts my ear with each swell of the breeze ;
I hear his low call, and his step stealing by,
The twang of the bow and the bird's sudden cry —
A thousand wild murmurings tremble in air,
And startle my spirit with thrillings of fear ;
Yet 1 love the wild music for breathing the tone
Of ages gone by, and of races long flown.
Old forests ! ye stand in your majesty yet,
Bearing proudly the seal by the Deity set."
Among the fine forests and over the beautiful prairie
the Indian was wont in his freedom and simple happiness
to chase the deer and trap the fur. But where now is he 1
He has given place to a race with nobler improvements —
yet, his destiny is sad.
RIVERS. — No State in the Union is so well supplied, in
RIVERS THE MFSSISSIPPI. 231
all parts, with rivers and streams as Illinois, whether for
navigation mill-power, or the purposes of farming, etc.
A glance at the map will show this fact ; the several
largest rivers, generally holding one common direction,
while innumerable smaller ones fall into them from all di
rections ; so that not a county, or scarcely a town, but is
sufficiently supplied with water, both for stock and hy
draulics.
For the most part I have copied the description of
rivers, from " Illinois in 1837 ;" as in that work they are
detailed with great care.
On the West, the State is bounded by the Mississippi.
At St. Anthony's the real fall of the Mississippi is between
sixteen and seventen feet, of perpendicular descent; yet
the descent, as the water breaks over different rapids, is
considerably more than that. Though it has not the
slightest claim to compare with that of Niagara in gran
deur, it furnishes an impressive and beautiful spectacle in
the loneliness of the desert. The adjoining scenery is of
the most striking and romantic character.
Below this point, it is bounded by limestone bluffs,
from 100 to 400 feet high; and first begins to exhibit
islands, driftwood, and sandbars ; its current is slightly
broken by the Rock river and Des Moines rapids ; which,
however, present no considerable obstruction to naviga
tion ; and 843 miles from the falls its waters are aug
mented by the immense stream of the Missouri from the
west ; the latter has, indeed, the longer course, brings
down a greater bulk of water, and gives its own character
to the united current ; yet it loses its name in the inferior
stream. Above their junction, the Mississippi is a clear,
placid stream, one mile and a half in width ; below, it is
turbid, and becomes narrower, deeper, and more rapid.
Between the Missouri and the sea, a distance of 1,220
miles, it receives its principal tributaries, the Ohio from
232 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
the east, and the Arkansas and Red rivers from the west ;
and immediately below the mouth of the latter, gives off,
in times of flood, a portion of its superfluous waters by the
outlet of the Atchafalava.
Below here it discharges a portion of its waters by the
Lafourche and Iberville ; but the great bulk flows on in
the main channel, through the flat tract of New Orleans,
reaches the sea at the end of a long projecting tongue of
mud, deposited by the river. Near the Gulf of Mexico, it
divides into several channels, called passes, with bars at
their mouths. The water is 12 to 16 feet deep and muddy,
and colors those of the Gulf for the distance of several
leagues.
The river begins to rise in the early part of March, and
continues to increase irregularly to the middle of June,
generally overflowing its banks to a greater or less extent,
although for some years these have not been inundated.
Above the Missouri, the flooded bottoms are from five to
eight miles wide, but below that point, they expand by
the recession of the river hills from the channel, to a
breadth of from 40 to 50 miles. From the mouth of the
Ohio, the whole western bank does not offer a single spot
eligible for the site of a considerable town ; on the eastern
side, there are several points where the hills approach the
river, and afford good town-sites ; but from Memphis to
Vicksburg, 365 miles, the whole tract consists of low
grounds ; and below Baton Rouge, where the line of up
land wholly leaves the river, and passes off to the east,
there is no place on the river border which is higher than
the marshy tract in its rear.
The Mississippi is obstructed by planters, sawyers, and
wooden islands, which are frequently the cause of injury,
and even destruction, to the boats which navigate it.
Planters are large bodies of trees firmly fixed by their
roots in the bottom of the river, one of their ends appear-
RIVERS CAIRO CAPTAIN GEAR. 233
ing about one foot above the surface of the water, when at
its medium hight.
The principal tributaries of the Mississippi, within the
State of Illinois, are Rock, Illinois, Kaskaskia, and Big
Muddy Rivers.
At latitude 39° comes in the Illinois, from the north, a
noble, broad, and navigable stream of 400 yards in width,
having a course in the State of about 400 miles, and navi
gable most of that distance.
Near latitude 38°, some 500 miles below the north line
of the State, the Kaskaskia, from the east, enters the Mis
sissippi ; it is 150 yards wide, is some 300 miles in length,
and is navigable about one third of that distance. Cotton
and tobacco have been raised on its banks.
Above 40 miles farther down, the Big Muddy comes in
from the north, discovered and named by the French,
Riviere au Vase ou Vaseux ; it is capable of navigation for
small craft some distance, and its banks afford large quan
tities of coal, together with valuable salines.
In latitude 37° north comes in the splendid Ohio, which
is the largest eastern tributary of the Mississippi ; it con
stitutes the southern boundary of the State, and from the
beauty of the country through which it passes, has been
called La Belle Riviere.
Cairo is a town at the junction of this river with the
Mississippi ; and is destined to be a place of great com
mercial importance, as it is the southern terminus of the
Illinois Central Railroad, and place of crossing for the ex
tension to the Gulf of Mexico of the Chicago and Mobile
Road. In due time enterprise and art will improve over
the apparent disadvantages of nature, and a large, wealthy,
commercial city must grow up at the junction of the great
Rivers and the Railroad.
Between 41° and 42°, Rock river from the north enters
the Mississippi ; its general course is southwest, and it is
234 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
navigable some ways up, in some seasons of the year. I
have been informed, that one season, some 1,200,000 Ibs.
of lead was shipped from the Mineral region, down this
river, by Captain Gear, who run the first Steamboat up
Eock river from the Mississippi.
These are the largest rivers of Illinois that fall into the
Mississippi, though there are some smaller ones, as Hen
derson, Pope, Fevre, etc.
The principal rivers which empty into the Ohio from
Illinois are the- Wabash, Saline, and Cash. The first of
these rise in Indiana, and running down the eastern border of
the State enters the Ohio about 200 miles above Cairo; it
is near 600 miles in length, and is navigable much of that
distance ; it presents one considerable rapid a short dis
tance below Vincennes. The principal tributaries of this
river are Embarrass, Vermillion, and Little Wabash.
The Embarrass rises in Champaign county and vicinity,
and is about 150 miles long. The Vermillion rises about
Vermillion and Livingston counties, and runs southeast
into, the Wabash. The Little Wabash rises in Gallatin
county, is about 140 miles long, and is navigable some
distance for flat boats and rafts.
The shores of the Ohio, from Pittsburg to the mouth of
the Wabash, are high rocky bluffs ; but below that, low and
subject to be overflowed. The estimated elevation of this
river at Pittsburg is 678 feet, and that of low water, at its
confluence with the Mississippi, 283 feet in 949 miles, the
length of the intermediate channel, making an average de
scent of a little over five inches in a mile. Since the Louisville
and Portland Cawa/has been completed, steamboats of small
draft can descend at all times from Pittsburg to the Mis
sissippi. Flat and keel boats descend the river at all sea
sons, but in periods of low water with frequent ground
ings on the sandbars, and the necessity of often unloading
to get the boat off.
RIVERS SANGAMON. 235
The inundations, as on the Mississippi, are occasionally
sources of disease, and in many cases impediments to im
provement. There are, however, some elevated situations
which afford good town-sites, and which must become
places of considerable importance. It is much to be re
gretted, that at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi
there is an extensive recently formed alluvion, which is
annually inundated, and which cannot, without immense
expense, be made an eligible town-site.
Some 35 or 45 miles below the junction of the Kan-
kakee and O'Plain, Fox river enters the Illinois from the
north. Both above and below the mouth of this stream,
there is a succession of rapids in the Illinois, with inter
vals of deep and smooth water. From the mouth of Fox
river to the foot of the rapids is nine miles, the descent,
in all, eight feet ; the rock is soft sandstone mixed with
gravel and shelly limestone. Nine miles above Fox river,
the grand rapids commence, and extend ten or twelve
miles. They are formed by ledges of rocks in the river
and rocky islands. The whole descent from the surface
of Lake Michigan at Chicago to the foot of the rapids, a
distance of ninety-four and a quarter miles, is one hundred
and forty-one feet and eighty-seven hundredths.
At the foot of the rapids the Vermillion river enters
the Illinois from the south, by a mouth of about fifty
yards wide ; it is an excellent mill stream, and runs
through extensive beds of bituminous coal. Some fine
groves, and extensive prairies, and at different points
superb mills and factories have been erected.
The Sangamon is one of the interior rivers, which
empties into the Illinois a short distance below Beards-
town, and is one of the chief branches of that river ; it is
about 180 miles long, of which about 120 miles are nav
igable for small craft. Spoon river is another large trib
utary of the Illinois.
236 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
There are but slight and few bars or other impediments
to the navigation of the Illinois ; and an effort is now be
ing made by those interested to have them removed, and
to induce Congress to grant some aid to the project.
MINERALS. — Lead, coal, salt, iron, zinc, copper, and
lime are the principal and most abundant minerals found
in Illinois ; some of which are numerous and a source of
large revenue ; though the deeper earth and rock founda
tions have not generally been thoroughly explored.
Lead is found in the northwestern part of the state in
vast quantities. The Indians and French had been long
accustomed to procure small quantities of the ore, but it
was not until about the year 1822 that the process of sep
arating the metal was begun to be carried on scientific
ally. Since that time, up to the end of 1835, 70,420,357
pounds of lead have been made here, and upward of
13,000,000 pounds have been smelted in one year; but
the business having been overdone, the product has since
been much less. In 1833, it was 7,941,792 pounds ; in
1834, 7,971,579; and in 1835, only 3,754,290. This
statement includes the produce of Wisconsin as well as
of Illinois. The rent accruing to government for the
same period, is a fraction short of 6,000,000 pounds.
Formerly, the government received ten per cent, in lead
for rents. Now it is six per cent.
Formerly the Mineral Lands were rented and not in
market ; but they have since been bought and worked as
private property, and the product has been greatly in
creased thereby.
Iron ore has been found in the southern parts of the
state, and is said to exist in considerable quantities also
in the north.
Native copper, in large quantities, exists in the northern
part of the state, especially at the mouth of Plum creek,
and on the Peckatonica. It is also found in small quanti-
MINERALS SPRINGS. 237
ties on Muddy river, in Jackson county, and back of Har
rison vi lie, in the bluffs of rivers in Monroe county, to
some small extent.
In this connection it may be proper to mention a petri
fied or fossil curiosity which attracts considerable atten
tion. It is on the banks of the O'Plain, a short distance
above its junction with the Kankakee ; it is a fossil tree,
of a very considerable size. It is a species of phytolites,
and is embedded in a horizontal position in a stratum of
newer floetz sandstone, of a gray color and close grain.
There are about fifty-one feet of the trunk visible. It is
eighteen inches in diameter.
As to the precious metals, some indications appear, and
some specimens have been found. Silver is supposed to
exist in St. Glair county, two miles from Rock Spring,
whence Silver creek derives its name. In the early times
the French sunk a shaft here, and tradition tells of large
quantities of the precious metal being obtained. In the
southern part of the state, several sections of land were
reserved from sale, on account of the silver ore they were
supposed to contain. Marble of a fine quality is found in
Randolph county. Crystalized gypsum has been found
in small f quantities in St. Clair county. Quartz crystals
exist in Gallatin and other counties.
Bituminous coal abounds in this state, and may be found
in nearly every county. It is frequently found without
excavation, in the ravines and at the points of bluffs.
Vast beds of this mineral exist in the bluffs adjacent to
the American Bottom.
Several large veins of coal, and apparently exhaustless,
have been struck in excavating the Illinois and Michigan
Canal. A bed of anthracite coal, it is said, has been dis
covered on Muddy river in Jackson county.
Muriate of soda, or common salt, has been found in
various parts of the state, held in solution in the springs.
238 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
The manufacture of salt by boiling and evaporation is car
ried on in Gallatin county, 12 miles west northwest from
Shawneetown j in Jackson county, near Brownsville ; and
in Vermillion county, near Danville. The springs and
land are owned by the State, and the works leased. A
coarse freestone, much used in building, is dug from quar
ries, near Alton, on the Mississippi, where large bodies
exist.
Medicinal waters are found in different parts of the
state. These are chiefly sulphur springs and chalybeate
waters. There is said to be one well in the southern part
of the state strongly impregnated with the sulphate of
magnesia, or Epsom salts, from which considerable quan
tities have been made for sale, by simply evaporating the
water, in a kettle, over a common fire. There are several
sulphur springs in Jefferson county, to which persons re
sort for health.
Between Ottowa and Peru some fine mineral springs
exist, which are supposed to be highly beneficial for me
dicinal purposes. I have never seen an analysis of their
ingredients, and cannot speak more definitely.
PRODUCTIONS OF SOIL. — All the grains, fruits, and roots
of the temperate regions of the earth grow luxuriantly in
Illinois ; the wheat is of excellent quality, and there is no
part of the Western Country where corn is raised with
greater ease and abundance. Garden vegetables of all
kinds succeed well. No country can exceed this for fruit-
bearing shrubs. Wild fruits and berries are in many
places abundant, and on some of the prairies the straw
berries are remarkably fine.
In most parts of the state, grape-vines, indigenous to
the country, are abundant, yielding grapes that might ad
vantageously be made into excellent wine. Foreign vines
are susceptible of easy cultivation. Wild vines are found
in every variety of soil, interwoven in every thicket in
PRODUCTIONS WILD AND DOMESTIC. 239
the prairies and barrens, and climbing to the tops of the
very highest trees on the bottoms. The French in early
times made so much wine as to export some to France ;
upon which the proper authorities prohibited, about the
year 1774, the introduction of wine from Illinois, lest it
might injure the sale of that staple article of the kingdom.
At Peoria, Peru, and Chicago they do well. -
Plums, of various sizes and flavor, grow in great abun
dance ; their color is generally red, and their taste deli
cious. In some locations, acres of these trees exhibit a
surface of the color of rubies, others bright-yellow and
blue : the quantities of fruit are prodigious.
Crab-apples are also very prolific, and make fine pre
serves. Wild cherries are equally productive. The per
simmon is a delicious fruit, after the frost has destroyed
its astringent properties. The black mulberry grows in
most parts, and is used for the feeding of silk-worms with
success. They appear to thrive and spin as well as on
the Italian mulberry. The cranberry, huckleberry, goose
berry, wild currant, strawberry, and blackberry grow wild
and in great profusion. Of nuts, the hickory, butternut,
black walnut, and peccan, deserve notice. The last is an
oblong, thin-shelled, delicious nut, that grows on a large
tree, a species of the hickory. The papaw grows in the
bottom and rich-timbered uplands, and produces a large,
pulpy, and luscious fruit.
Of domestic fruits, the apple and peach are chiefly cul
tivated. Pears are tolerably plentiful in some settle
ments, and quinces are cultivated with success. Apples
are easily cultivated, and are very productive of large
size.
The cultivated vegetable productions in the field are
corn, wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat, potatoes, sweet po
tatoes, turnips, rye, tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor-
beau, and every other production common to the middle
240 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
states. Indian corn is a staple production. No farmer
can live without it, and hundreds raise little else. This Is
chiefly owing to the ease with which it is cultivated. Its
average yield is fifty bushels to the acre. Oftentimes the
product amounts to seventy-five bushels to the acre, and
in some instances has exceeded one hundred. Corn is
generally planted about the first of May, often earlier.
The sugar beet, ruta baga, and cabbages, are raised with
great ease, and of very large yield ; while the sweet po
tato is cultivated by many to considerable profit ; the
only difficulty being that of preserving the seed through
the winter, which is easily done, if understood.
CLIMATE. — The climate of Illinois is such as would be
naturally expected from the latitude in which it lies. The
thermometer does not range more widely here than in
similar parallels east of the Alleghany mountains ; nor
perhaps as much so as in those districts beyond the in
fluence of the sea-breeze. There is every day a breeze,
from some quarter of the broad prairies, almost as re
freshing as that from the ocean ; the easterly winds, so
chilling and so annoying along the Atlantic sea-board are
seldom ; but breezes from the prairies are annoying to
the traveler when the mercury is at zero.
The winter commences in December, and ends in Feb
ruary. Its duration and temperature are variable. The
winters generally exhibit a temperature of climate some
what milder than those of the Atlantic states in the same
latitude. Snow rarely falls to the depth of six inches, and
as rarely remains more than ten or twelve days. There
are, however, occasional short periods of very cold weather ;
but they seldom continue longer than three or four days
at a time. The Mississippi is sometimes frozen over and
passed on the ice at St. Louis, and occasionally for several
weeks together. The year 1811 was remarkable for the
river closing over twice — a circumstance which had not oc-
SEASONS INDIAN SUMMER. 241
curred before within the memory of the oldest inhab
itant.
During the winter of '49-50, there was nearly three
months continuous sleighing in Illinois, Wisconsin, and
Iowa ; a circumstance which had not occurred before for
many years. The writer of this, during that winter,
crossed the Mississippi in a sleigh on the ice, at Rock
Island, in the first wee"k of January ; and he crossed it as
far down as Keokuk, on the ice, as late as the first week
in March, of the same winter. At Chicago, and along
the Canal, the holidays were made the more merry by
fine sleigh-riding, which is very unusual in that region.
Still, the winters in these States are on the average much
milder and more favorable to stock than in similar lati
tudes at the East.
The summers are warm, though during the sultry
months the intensity of heat is modified by a free course
everywhere to genial breezes, constantly giving to the at
mosphere a refreshing elasticity. During this season, the
appearance of the country is gay and beautiful, being
clothed with grass, foliage, and. flowers, of endless hues
and fragrance.
Of all the seasons of the year, the autumn is the most
delightful. The heat of the summer is over by the mid
dle of August ; and from that time till December, there
is almost one continuous succession of bright, clear, de
lightful sunny days, flecked with fitful clouds. Nothing
can exceed the beauty of summer and autumn in this
country, where, on one hand, wre have the expansive prai
rie strewed with flowers still growing ; and on the other,
the forests which skirt it, presenting all the varieties of color
incident to the fading foliage of a thousand different trees.
About the middle of October or beginning of Novem
ber, the Indian Summer commences, and continues from
fifteen to twenty days. During this time, the weather is
"'21 "
242 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
bland but languid, the atmosphere is smoky, and the sun
and moon give a mellowed light, and are sometimes al
most totally obscured. It is generally supposed that this
is caused by the burning of the withered grass and herbs
on the extensive prairies of the north and west, which
also accounts for its increased duration as we proceed
westward. The softened lights, the serene breezes, and
the mystic haziness, wrhich envelops every thing, and
seems to place all objects at an unusual remoteness from
the observer, during the, not sad, but pensive season of
Indian Summer, is like the approach of a good man's last
days, as he looks toward the grave, after a useful and up
right life, ripened into usefulness ; and through the mystic
clouds of death the sun is but dimly seen ; yet, his bright
ness beyond is no less certain, to this good man's antici
pations — he sees his heavenly reward garnered in man
sions where thieves steal not, as is faintly and imperfectly
emblemmed by the bountiful harvest which is now stored
in the granaries of the faithful husbandman, for winter's
need.
" I saw an aged man upon his bier :
His hair was thin and white, and on his brow
A record of the cares of many a year —
Cares that were ended and forgotten now—
And there was sadness round and faces bowed,
And women's tears fell fast and children wailed aloud.
" Why weep ye so for him, who having run
The bound of man's appointed years, at last,
Life's blessings all enjoyed, life's labors all done,
Serenely to his final rest has passed,
While the soft memory of his virtues yet
Lingers, like twilight hues, when the bright sun is set?"
Persons who have not lived in Illinois, to know by per
sonal observation, may judge something of the climate and
seasons in that region, from the following statement :
For the last fifteen years, in Central Illinois, peach trees
have blossomed, at different dates in the several years,
CLIMATE TEMPERATURE FROSTS. 243
from the 25th of March to the 20th of April. Strawber
ries blossomed about the same time. Apple trees put
forth leaves from the 1st to the 20th of April ; they blos
som from the 10th of April to the 3d of May, and meet
with no after frosts.
Prairies began to be green and furnish pasture from the
10th of March to the 15th of April. Forests put forth
leaves, half size, from the 5th of April to the 10th of May ;
full size from the 22d of April to the 14th of May.
Last frosts in spring, from as early as the 16th of April
to as late as the 7th of May.
During the same period, the earliest frost of autumn
was about the 17th of September, and some years it did
not appear till as late as the 23d of October ; and from
year to year alternating between those dates. So that the
seasons are uniformly long enough to ripen the large Mis
sissippi corn, which requires three to four weeks more
time than the varieties of corn usually grown in New
York and New England. On the rich prairies and river
bottoms, this corn often grows to the hight of 13 to 15
feet, with three ears to the stalk ; frequently yielding from
70 to 100 bushels per acre. From 30 to 70 bushels of
oats ; 20 to 40 bushels of wheat ; and 300 to 600 bushels
of potatoes per acre are obtained.
From the latitude of the mouth of Rock river, down to
the latitude of the mouth of Illinois river, the climate, in
blandness and freedom from frost, is as favorable as at
New York or Long Island ; and the more delicate or ten
der fruits may be raised as successfully, and of as good
flavors, if the same care and labor is put forth to procure
the best varieties, and then in culturing them. Melons,
peas, raddishes, and squashes, come forward as early, and
of as good quality, as those raised on Long Island or the
Jersey shore.
The following statements of population, etc., in the coun-
244 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
ties are taken mostly from the United States census re
turns of 1850 :
Alexander is the most southern county in the State, and
comprises the peninsula between the Mississippi and Ohio
rivers ; in which Cairo and Unity are situated ; it is well
timbered, the soil fertile but low, and parts of it subject to
inundation ; and is watered by Cash river, a small stream
emptying into the Ohio. Population, 2,484; dwellings,
455 ; farms, 202*; manufactories, 8.
Its county-seat is THEBES, situafed on the east bank of
the Mississippi. In this county, near this ancient city, is
a circular lake, called Horseshoe lake from its shape.
Adams county, and QUINCY, its county-seat, were de
scribed in the Mississippi tour ; it is a superior county of
land, and QUINCY, one of the finest cities in the State ; pop
ulation between six and seven thousand. Population of
county, 26,508 ; dwellings, 4,459 ; farms, 2,294 ; manu
factories, 118. Ashton, Fairfield, Columbus, and Liberty,
are among the other towns of this county.
Bond county is watered by Kaskaskia river and its
branches ; the surface is gently undulating, with a due
proportion of prairie and timbered land ; some coal is
found in this county .along the banks of Shoal creek. Pop
ulation, 6,144; dwellings, 1,070; farms, -665; manufac
tories, 17.
GREENVILLE, a pleasant and thriving town, located on
the east fork of Shoal creek, is the county-seat.
JBoone county lies on the north line of the State, and is
watered by the Kishwaukee, Piscasaw, Peckatonica, and
other smaller streams. The soil is of the best quality,
undulating, and divided between prairies and timber; and
in general agricultural resources, is scarcely inferior to any
county in the State. Population, 7,626 ; dwellings, 1,352 ;
farms, 897 ; manufactories, 17.
BELVIDERE, the county-seat, is a pleasant town, situated
ILLINOIS COUNTIES. 247
S. has had a long and extensive acquaintance in the West,
is a gentlemanly, reliable business man, and is largely
connected with such business. Population of Cook county,
43,385; dwellings, 7,674; farms, 1,857; manufactories,
2:27. Other towns are Wheeling and Gross Point.
Cumberland county is located west of Clarke, and is wa
tered by the Embarrass and its branches ; it is a small, new
county, and contains considerable prairie, with some tim
ber. Population. 3,720; dwellings, 634; farms, 326;
shops, 5.
GREENUP is the county-seat, a young and growing town,
well situated on the Embarrass river. Woodbury is ano
ther town in this county.
Clarke county is situated on the Wabash, opposite to
Terre Haute, Indiana ; it is watered by the north fork of
the Embarrass, and contains both prairie and timbered
land, of good soil. Population, 9,532; dwellings, 1,621 ;
farms, 636 ; manufactories, 14.
DARWIN, county-seat, is a flourishing town on the Wa
bash. Marshall, on the National Road, was formerly the
county-seat. Martinsville, Livingston, Melrose, etc., are
other towns.
Clay county is a small one, on the Little Wabash ; its
land is of a good quality, and divided between timber and
prairie. Population, 4,289 ; dwellings, 715 ; farms, 237 ;
manufactories, 6.
MAYSVILLE, county-seat, is situated on the border of
Twelvemile Prairie, near the Little Wabash. Louisville
and other towns are in the county.
Clinton county is watered by the Kaskaskia river,
Shoal and Sugar creeks ; its land is good prairie and tim
ber. Population, 5,139; dwellings, 947; farms, 628;
manufactories, 8.
CARLYSLE, the county-seat, is situated on the west bank
of the Kaskaskia, and is a thriving town.
'248 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Coles county lies in the eastern part of the state, and is
watered by the Embarrass, and head waters of the Kas-
kaskia, which in some places afford good mill-sites ; the
land is rolling, divided between prairie and timber. Popu
lation, 9,335; dwellings, 1,571 ; farms, 996; shops, 6.
CHARLESTON is the county-seat, handsomely situated on
Grand Prairie, near the Embarrass river.
Christian county is one of the new counties, and is wa
tered by the south fork of Sangamon river ; it contains
much fine prairie and some good timber. Population,
3,202 ; dwellings, 555 ; farms, 434 ; manufactories, 12.
TAYLORVILLE is the county-seat, situated on the river.
Bethany, Stonington, Sylvan Grove, and Mount Auburn,
are other fine towns in this county.
Crawford county lies on the Wabash river, and contains
a large proportion of good prairie land ; its streams are
the branches of the Wabash and Embarrass. Population,
7,135; dwellings, 1,192; farms, 542; shops, 8.
PALESTINE, situated on a fine prairie, is the county-seat.
There are other thriving towns in the county, as Robinson,
Hutsonville, and York, the latter on the Wabash.
Carroll county, and SAVANNAH, were noticed in the tour
up the Mississippi. Population, 4,586 ; dwellings, 814;
farms, 482 ; manufactories, 17.
Edgar county lies on the Wabash, and contains portions
of prairie and timber of good quality, with considerable
good cultivation. Population, 10,692; dwellings, 1,702;
farms, 1,175; manufactories, 38.
PARIS, the county-seat, is advantageously situated on a
fine prairie, and surrounded by good farms. Other towns
are Bloomfield, Ono, Grandview, and Florence.
Edwards county lies on the Little Wabash, and is far
ther watered by the Bon Pas; the soil is mostly high
and rolling prairie, \vith some timber. Population, 3,524 ;
dwellings, 595 ; farms, 329 ; manufactories, 7.
COUNTIES TOWNS. 249
ALBION, the county-seat, occupies a healthy and hand
some position on a high prairie.
Effingham county is situated on the Little Wabash, and
embraces considerable good land, generally very level.
Population, 3,799 ; dwellings, 712 ; forms, 391 ; shops, 6.
EWINGTON, the county-seat, is advantageously situated
on the National Road. Freemantown is another village
in this county.
De Kalb is a long county, lying in the north part of the
state, and west of Kane ; it is watered by branches of the
Kishwaukee and Fox rivers ; its soil consists of the best
kind of prairie, with some good timber, and a rolling sur
face, which presents many fine farms.
SYCAMORE, the county-seat, is a pleasant town on the
prairie, near a clear brook, making altogether a delightful
location. The other townis of the county are Genoa, Sy
racuse, and Little Rock.
Dupage county, with its county-seat NAPERVILLE, are
described in the Canal Route. Population, 9,290 ; dwell
ings, 1,568 ; farms, 960 ; manufactories, 18. Other towns
in the county are Brush Hill and Cottage Hill.
De Wilt is a new county, and lies on the head streams
of the Sangamon river ; about equally divided between
timber and prairie of good quality. Population, 5,002 ;
dwellings, 881 ; farms, 482; manufactories, 18.
The county-seat is DE WITT, situated pleasantly on a
prairie. The other towns are Clinton, Franklin, Waynes-
ville, Marion, and Mount Pleasant.
Fayette county was one of the large counties, and has
been divided into several ; it is watered by the Kaskaskia
and branches ; portions of it are subject to inundations ;
it contains both good timber and prairie. Population,
8,075; dwellings, 1,431 ; farms, 826; manufactories, 4.
VANDALIA, formerly capital of the state, situated on the
250 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Kaskaskia, is the county-seat. There are some other
smaller towns in the county.
Franklin county is one of the southern counties of the
state, on the Big Muddy river, and branches of Saline
creek ; it is heavily timbered, with but small prairies ;
portions of the county are subject to inundations. Popu
lation, 5,681 ; dwellings, 971 ; farms, 577 ; shops, 6.
BENTON is the county-seat, situated on the Big Muddy.
Frankfort was previously county-seat.
Fulton is a very wealthy county, and occupies a portion
of the Bounty Tract, west of Illinois river; the land is of
a good quality, about equally divided between timber and
prairie, and is wratered by Spoon river and Apple creek ;
it contains many thriving villages and superior farms, as
Fairview, Bernadotte, Farmington, Liverpool, Canton,
Utica, and others. Population, 22,508 ; dwellings, 3,811 ;
farms, 1,942; manufactories, 104.
LEWISTON, the county-seat, is a growing town, situated
in the midst of good timber, west of Illinois river. Ful
ton is one of the most thriving counties in the state, having
a triangular form, its longest side lying along Illinois river.
Gallatin county is located in the southeast corner of the
state, at the junction of the Wabash with the Ohio ; it
contains a large proportion of timbered land, which is par
ticularly valuable on account of its contiguity to the salt
springs : these are situated on Saline creek, about 20
miles above its junction with the Ohio river. The princi
pal spring was formerly possessed by the Indians, who
called it the "Great Salt Spring:" and it appears that
they had been long acquainted with the method of making
salt. Large fragments of earthen-ware are continually
found near the works, both on and under the surface of the
earth. They have on them the impression of basket or
wicker work.' These Salines furnish quantities of salt for
home consumption, but little for exportation.
SALINES COUNTIES TOWNS. 251
In a treaty between the United States, and the Dela
ware, Shawanee, Pottawattomee, Eel River, Weea, Kicka-
poo, and Piankasaw Indians, at FORT WAYNE, on the 7th
of June, 1803, this Saline was ceded to the United States,
with a quantity of land, not exceeding four miles, sur
rounding it ; in consideration of which, the United States
engaged to deliver annually to the said Indians a quantity
of salt not exceeding 150 bushels, to be divided among
the several tribes in such a manner as the General Council
of Chiefs should determine. For a number of years it
was possessed by the United States, with a reservation of
161 sections of land in the vicinity, the whole of which were
ceded in 1818 to the State of Illinois, by whom it was
leased to different individuals for about 10,000 dollars per
annum. The works are situated on section 20, township
9, south range 8, east of the third principal meridian.
Saline river is navigable to the works, and the surplus salt
is thus shipped to Southern markets.
This part of Illinois is well adapted to the growth of
stock ; large amounts of horses, beef, pork, cattle, lumber,
and tobacco, are sent out of the county. Population,
5,448 ; dwellings. 1,000 ; farms, 570 ; manufactories, 17.
The seat of justice is EQUALITY, on the east side of
Saline creek. It is situated in the midst of the salt manu
factories, fourteen miles northeast from Shawneetown,
which is the principal commercial depot in the southern
part of Illinois, and is situated on the west bank of the
Ohio, some miles below the mouth of the W abash ; and
it will be recollected that Shawneetown is distinguished
with the history of the Illinois State Bank.
Greene county is located on the east bank of the Illinois,
and is watered by Apple and Macoupin creeks ; it con
tains a large proportion of timber, with small undulating
prairies, constituting beautiful landscapes. Population,
12,429 ; dwellings, 2,024 ; farms, 1,155 ; manufactories, 27.
252 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
CARROLTON is the county-seat, situated in the midst of a
fine prairie, and is a flourishing town. There are several
other fine towns in the county, as Albany, Bluffdale,
Fayette, Greenfield, Newton, Kane, Whitehall, and others.
Grundy, a new county, with MORRIS its county-seat, are
described in the Canal district.
Hamilton county is watered by Little W abash river and
Saline creek ; and contains both timber and prairie. Pop
ulation, 6,362 ; dwellings, 1,058 ; farms, 417 ; shops, 6.
MCLEANSBORO is the county-seat, and situated in the
edge of timber and prairie, on the high ground at the head
waters of the Saline.
Hancock county, and CARTHAGE, are described in the
Mississippi tour. Population, 14,652 ; dwellings, 2.585 ;
farms, 1,167; manufactories, 43.
Henry county was laid oft* from Knox, and is watered by
Rock and Green rivers ; its lands are good, consisting of
fair portions of prairie and grove ; and presents many fine
farms. Population, 3,807 ; dwellings, 772 ; farms, 281.
CAMBRIDGE, the county-seat, is situated in a pleasant
prairie. Geneseo, Andover, Richmond, Oxford, Lagrange,
and others, are the principal towns.
Henderson is a new county, lying on the Mississippi, and
in the Bounty Tract ; it is watered by Henderson river,
and several creeks ; the land is of good quality, both prairie
and timber. Population, 4.612 ; dwellings, 805 ; farms,
420 ; manufactories. 27.
OQUAWKA, the county-seat, is situated on the Mississippi,
and is a place of considerable business ; Henderson, Ben-
ton, Warren, and other towns are in this county.
Hardirt county is a new one, taken off from Pope, and
located in the southeast part of the State, on the Ohio ; its
lands are fair, both prairie jind timber; and is drained by
Saline river.
Th^ Cave in Rock is well known to all navigators of the
ROCK CAVE. 253
Ohio river ; it is situated on the bank of the west river,
about 30 miles below the mouth of the Wabash. It is a
large cave, supposed by the Indians to be the habitation of
the Great Spirit.
The following description of this cave is given by Thad-
deus M. Harris, an English tourist, who visited it in the
spring of 1803 :
"For about three or four miles before you come to this place,
you are presented with a scene truly romantic. On the Illinois
side of the river, you see large ponderous rocks piled one upon an
other, of different colors, shapes, and sizes. Some appear to have
gone through the hands of the most skillful artist ; some represent
the ruins of ancient edifices ; others thrown promiscuously in and
out of the river, as if nature intended to show us with what ease
she could handle those mountains of solid rock. In some places
you see purling streams winding their course down their rugged
front ; while in others, the rocks project so far, that they seem almost
disposed to leave their doubtful situations. After a short relief
from this scene, you come to a second, which is something similar
to the first; and here, with strict scrutiny, you can discover the
cave. Before its mouth stands a delightful grove of cypress trees,
arranged immediately on the bank of the river. They have a fine
appearance, and add much to the cheerfulness of the place.
" The mouth of the cave is but a few feet above the ordinary level
of the river, and is formed by a semicircular arch of about 80 feet
at its base, and 25 feet in hight, the top projecting considerably
over, forming a regular concave. From the entrance to the ex
tremity, which is about 180 feet, it has a regular and gradual as
cent. On either side is a solid bench of rock ; the arch coming to
a point about the middle of the cave, where you discover an open
ing sufficiently large to receive the body of a man, through which
comes a small stream of fine water, made use of by those who visit
this place. From this hole a second cave is discovered, whose di
mensions, form, etc., are not known. The rock is of limestone.
The sides of the cove are covered with inscriptions, names of per
sons, dates, etc. Part of the trees have been cut down, and the
entrance into the cave exposed to view.''
In 1797. this cave, was the place of resort and security
to Mason, a notorious robber, and his gang, who were ac-
oo
254 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
customed to plunder and murder the crews of boats, while
descending the Ohio ; and has been a place of concealment,
resorted to^by thieves and robbers, even at a much more
recent period, as the pioneers in that region, and unfortu
nate boatmen on the river, often attest to their loss. Pop
ulation of Hardin county, 2,887 ; dwellings, 2,585 ; farms,
1,167,
ELIZABETH is the county-seat, a flourishing village on the
Ohio. There are some other towns in this county, as
Twitchelburg, Illinois Furnace, and Rockincave. The Ten
nessee river enters the Ohio opposite this county. The
general aspect of the river shores, through most of this sec
tion of country, presents many curious objects to the eye
of the traveler.
Iroquois county is located on the east border of the
State ; it is watered by Iroquois river, and several creeks ;
the land is mostly good prairie, with some timber and sand
ridges. Population. 4,149 ; dwellings, 718; farms, 387.
MONTGOMERY is the county-seat, pleasantly situated on
the south bank of the Iroquois. Among the other towns,
are Milford and Iroquois City.
Jackson county is in the southern part of the State, on
the Mississippi ; it is watered by the Big Muddy river ;
the surface of the county is mostly timbered, though it
contains many prairies. Muddy river, running through the
interior of the county, is navigable for a considerable dis
tance, and affords to the inhabitants every facility for ex
porting their surplus produce. On this stream there is a
saline, or salt spring, where considerable quantities of salt
are manufactured. A large body of excellent coal exists
on this stream. The bed is said to be inexhaustible.
The Fountain Bluff, frequently called the " Big Hill," in
the southwest corner of the county, is a singularly formed
eminence, on the Mississippi, eight miles above the mouth
of the Big Muddy. It is of an oval shape, six miles in cir-
FOUNTAIN BLUFF. 255
cumference, and with an elevation of 300 feet. The west-
ern side is on the river, and the top is broken, full of sink
holes, with shrubs and scattering trees. The north side is
nearly perpendicular rock, but the south side is sloping,
and ends in a fine rich tract of soil, covered with farms.
East is an extensive and low bottom, with lakes and
swamps. Fine springs of limpid water gush out from the
foot of this bluff on all sides. Population, 5,862 ; dwell
ings, 1,038; farms, 604; manufactories, 23.
MURPHRYSBORO is the county-seat, situated on the Big
Muddy, a thriving town; Brownville was formerly the
county-seat; Vergennes and Liberty are other towns of
this county.
Jasper county lies on the Embarrass, and is also water
ed by some other streams ; it contains fertile tracts of prai
rie and timber, with some wet lands. Population, 3,220 ;
dwellings, 588 ; farms, 283.
NEWTON, situated on the Embarrass, is the county-seat ;
Ste. Marie and Rosehill are two other villages in this
county.
Jefferson county contains a large proportion of prairie,
and lies about half way between the Mississippi and Wa-
bash; it is watered by Big Muddy and Little Wabash.
Population, 8,109; dwellings, 1,368; farms, 470; manu
factories, 2.
MOUNT VERNON, the county-seat, is situated on a small
stream in the edge of a fine prairie, and is a pleasant, thriv
ing village.
Jo Daviess, and GALENA, are described in the Mineral
region. Population, 18,604. Persons visiting Galena, or
this county, for the purpose of buying lands, or lots, or
speculating in lead, will do w^ell to call on Mr. WILLIAM
UEMPSTEAD, a gentleman of long experience in this region,
and an excellent, reliable business man ; having his office
in Galena.
256 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Ill prospecting and sinking shafts for the lead mineral,
or galena — which is the most proper name — after pene
trating the earth from 40 to 70 and even 100 feet, the
miner sometimes finds himself in caverns, of different di
mensions, from the size of a small room to that of several
rods in extent, Sometimes he strikes a crevice, which
affords space barely sufficient to crowd the body through,
and, this passage often leads to a cavern.
Many of these subterranean apartments present scenes
of curious and brilliant splendor ; from the various crystal-
izations found in them ; with various representations of
carbonate of lime. Calcareous spar, in great diversity and
beauty of form, is found in considerable quantities, in some
of the richest mineral-bearing of these caves or grottos.
Sometimes it is found in the form of stalactites, suspended
from the roof and sides, in the shape of leaves, vines, fin
gers, icicles, and birds; and generally of the purest white,
with a velvety surface, though often more angular and
sparkling, like broken glass or smalt; and some of it is
clear and porous like coarse snow glistening in the sun.
Another sort is more properly called stalagmites ; this is
found on the bottoms of the caves, where the impregnated
or carbonated water has dripped through and fallen to the
ground, and becomes crystalized in the shape of small ani
mals, birds, vegetables, and other objects ; it is generally
pure, sparkling white, but often becomes a calcareous ala
baster, variegated beautifully by different coloring matters,
which become incorporated into it from the earth.
The most extensive, as well as most elegant and various
specimens, which I have ever seen, were procured from the
rich caves discovered by Mr. LEVINS, of Dubuque. It is
worth the trouble of a short journey to examine his large
cabinet of these beautiful cavern jewels.
In some of the caves, more particularly in the vicinity
of the copper mines, the sulphates of lime are found in dif-
COUNTIES TOWNS. 257
ferent forms, such as opaque plaster and gypsum; and
sometimes in handsome transparent and crystalized forms,
as selenites and alabastrites ; which are generally of a
pure sparkling white ; but other specimens are of diversi
fied hues, like the stalagmites, and other carbonated vari
eties.
The richest and most abundant lead mineral is generally
found in caves, beneath an earth whose drippings are fruit
ful with these beautiful spars ; it is generally a clay or marl
soil, in which alluminum constitutes a large ingredient, and
where soap-clay is found in* abundance, of curiously diversi
fied colors. To many persons this soap-clay is quite a cu
riosity. In some cases this clay is known to extract grease
from silk and linen cloths. It can be easily cut or modeled
into various forms and images, and hardens when dried —
but slakes into fragments, when exposed to outside air.
Johnson county is the middle one of three counties, the
the other two being Pope and Hardin — which, in the
southern part of the State, reach from the Ohio to the
Mississippi ; it is watered by Cash and Cedar creeks ; it
contains but little prairie, and much timber, though gene
rally level land. Population. 4,103; dwellings, 718;
farms, 301 ; manufactories, 4.
VIENNA, the county-seat, is a pleasant little village, on
Cash creek.
Jersey is a new county, lying on the Mississippi and
Illinois rivers, at the mouth of the latter ; it is watered by
Macoupin and other creeks ; it contains prairie and timber
of good quality. Population, 7,354; dwellings, 1,222;
farms, 645 ; manufactories, 44.
PERRYSVILLE is the county-seat, situated on a small creek
in the prairie.
Kane county is one of the best populated and cultivated
counties in the state, situated in the northern part, with Fox
river running through its entire length, from north to
258 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
south ; furnishing numerous water-powers, and abundance
of good limestone ; its soil is generally of the best kind
of rolling prairies, sprinkled over with handsome groves
and strips of timber. Population, 16,703 ; dwellings,
2,828 ; farms, 1,015 ; manufactories, 49.
GENEVA, the county-seat, is a beautiful and busy little
village on Fox river. Aurora, St. Charles, Elgin, Batavia,
and Dundee, are other villages on Fox river, in this
county, with from 1,000 to 4,000 inhabitants; they con
tain various excellent mills and other machinery. These
towns are much settled with people from New York.
Knox county is in the Bounty Tract, and watered by
Spoon river ; it is a good county of land with prairie and
timber. Population, 13,279 ; dwellings, 2,193 ; farms,
619 ; manufactories, 100.
KNOXVILLE, county-seat, occupies an elevated position
on Haw creek. At Galesburg is Knox College, an in
stitution of a useful and high order ; Trenton, Abigton,
and other villages are in this county.
Kendall is a new county, with Fox river running diag
onally through it from northeast to southwest; it is a
splendid prairie county. Population, 7,730 ; dwellings,
1,258 ; farms, 659.
YORKVILLE, the county-seat, is situated on Fox river.
The other thriving towns are Oswego, Newark, Bristol,
Lisbon, and Penfield.
La Salle county lies on both sides of the Illinois river ;
and for agricultural purposes compares favorably with
any in the state ; but like many other parts of the state
it is deficient in timber ; still, this is much supplied by
abundant coal beds. For a long time this county em
braced what is now Grundy and Kendall counties. Al
though I have before given a partial description of this
county, the following items will be none the less accept
able to the reader.
COUNTIES TOWNS INDIANS. 259
Starved Rock, situated in the left bank of the Illinois,
some six or eight miles below OTTOWA, and which attracts
attention, is a perpendicular mass of lime and sandstone,
washed by the river, and elevated 150 feet above it. Its
perpendicular sides, rising from the river, are inaccessible.
It is connected with a chain of hights that extend up the
stream, by a narrow ledge, the only ascent to which is by
a winding and precipitous path. The diameter of the
top of the rock is about 100 feet; it is covered with a
soil of some depth, which has produced a growth of
young trees ; with the bare rocks cropping out in some
places. The advantages which it affords as an impreg
nable retreat, induced a band of Illinois Indians, seeking
refuge from the fury of the Potawattomies. with whom
they were at war, to intrench themselves here. They re
pulsed all the assaults of their besiegers, and would have
remained masters of their high tower, but for the impos
sibility of obtaining supplies of water. They had se
cured provisions, but their only resource for the former
was by letting down vessels with bark ropes to the river.
Their enemies stationed themselves in canoes at the base
of the cliffs, and cut off the ropes as fast as they were let
down. The consequence of this was the entire extirpation
of the band. Many years afterward, their bones were
whitening on the summit.
An intrenchment, corresponding to the edge of the pre
cipice, is distinctly visible ; and fragments of antique
pottery, and other curious remains of the vanished race,
are strewn around. From this elevated point, the Illinois
river may be traced as it winds through deep and solitary
forests or outspread plains, until it disappears from the
vision in the distance. In the opposite direction, a prairie
stretches out and blends with the horizon, encompassing a
most beautiful and romantic range.
On Indian creek, in the northern part of the county, a
260 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
most horrible tragedy was enacted, at the commencement
of the Indian war of 1832. On the 20th of May, of that
year, fifteen persons belonging to the families of Messrs.
Hall, Daviess, and Pettigrew, were massacred by the In
dians. Two young ladies, Misses Halls, were taken pris
oners and afterward redeemed, and two young lads made
their escape. The bodies of men, women, and children,
were shockingly mutilated, the houses of the settlers
burned, their furniture destroyed, and their cattle killed —
all in daylight, and within twenty miles of a large force
of the militia. This was done by the Indians under Black
Hawk, near what is now known as the village of Lamoile,
a pleasant location. A portion of that band were exter
minated during the same season by the combined forces
of United States troops and Illinois militia, and the re
mainder dispersed over the prairies west of the Missis
sippi.
Persons visiting La Salle county, for the purpose of
buying lands or village lots, will do well to call upon
JOHN L. COATES, Esq., at Peru, or D. L. HOUGH, Esq.,
at La Salle; both reliable business men, and well ac
quainted with that part of the country.
Lawrence county is located in the eastern part of the
State, on the W a bash ; it is watered by the Embarrass,
and contains a fair proportion of prairie and timber, with
some bad sink holes and swamps, called " Devil's Holes."
Vincennes, in Indiana, is opposite this county. Popula
tion, 6,121 ; dwellings, 1,057; farms, 656; manufactories,
26.
LAWRENCEVILLE, situated pleasantly on the Embarrass,
is the county-seat, and a thriving town.
Near by, and a little above Starved Rock, is another
overhanging ledge of precipitous rocks, called Lover's Leap ;
it is so called from the fact, as the Indian legend goes, that
a young squaw, of the besieging tribe, loved and was
LOVER'S LEAP BUFFALO ROCK. 261
affianced to a young brave of the besieged party. She
being more intensely interested in the desire and matters
of her own heart, than with the contest of the tribe, had
devised the means of her wild lord's escape, and they fled
together. But they were not permitted long to enjoy the
success of her devoted stratagem, for their flight was very
soon discovered, and they were hotly pursued, until they
took refuge in an apparently concealed crevice of an emi
nence some mile or two above where the Illinois were con
fined ; but the lovers finding themselves discovered, and
unable to elude their pursuers, at once mutually resolved,
rather than be captured, separated, and tortured, that they
would die together, that their spirits might take flight in
company to the more peaceful hunting grounds in the land
of spirits; and in this resolute purpose they embraced,
gazed in sad, firm earnestness up to the moon and stars, at
the forests, and the rushing stream below, and into each
others' eyes, then encircled, arm in arm, they made the
plunge which dashed them, crushed and broken, down the
craggy steep, where the river drank their blood and swal
lowed their mangled forms.
And ever afterward, in the misty moonlight, the Indians
could see the pale corpses of that pair hovering around
the precipice, and hear faint, sad meanings, and then more
exulting shouts and songs.
In this connection, the following lines from a poem by
HOSMER, will be read with interest :
" There is a place — a lonely place,
Deep in the forest green and old ;
And oaken giants interlace
Their boughs above the fruitful mold.
" Though fled have many weary suns
Since rose wild yell and cry of fear ;
Its bowers the roving Indian shuns
When belted for the chase of deer."
262 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
"Linked with the fair enchanting place
Sad legend of the past he knows,
And with a deeply troubled face
Wild, watchful looks around he throws."
* * * *
" Wa-noo-sha was a chieftain's child,
And sweetest flower of womanhood,
That ever grew untaught and wild
Within the green-roof'd mossy wood.
" A suitor, hated by her sire,
Had seen, till night's chill gloom was gone,
And moon had tipped the hills with fire,
Love's torch in her bark lodge burn on."
It is a custom in the courtships of some Indian tribes
for the young chief to light a torch and place it in the
wigwam where his love sleeps ; and if she allow it to
burn on, till all is consumed, he understands that his suit
is favorable and accepted ; but otherwise, if she rise and
extinguish it.
Near this place, rising up in the alluvial plain, on the
opposite side of the river, is another curious formation,
some 100 feet high, called Buffalo Rock. On one end and
side it is grassy and accessible for cattle to depasture ; but
the upper end and right bank are nearly perpendicular
craggy rocks setting into the river. It used to be a prac
tice with the Indians to find or drive herds of buffaloes
into this promontory, and then rush with fires and other
frightening devices after them till they were forced in
scores to plunge over the beetling precipice, to destruction,
and were thus secured by the Indians.
Livingston county is watered by the Vermillion of the
Illinois ; which furnishes good water-power and coal beds,
lime quarries and .sandstone; it contains good prairie,
with some fine tracts of timber, among which are maple and
walnut. Population, 1,552; dwellings, 261 ; farms, 185.
PONTIAC is the county-seat, a thriving village on the
Vermillion. There are some other smaller towns in the
county.
COUNTIES TOWNS. 263
Lake county, with WAUKEGAN, the county-seat, was
partly described with the other counties on the Lake. In
this county are several handsome small lakes, as Pistakee,
Lake Zurich, and others. On the borders of the latter is
a fine, smart little village of the same name. Popula
tion, 14,226 ; dwellings, 2,455 ; farms, 1,595 ; manufac
tories, 43.
Lee is a new county, lying on Rock river, and contains
much very excellent prairie, with some timber ; the river
furnishes some water-powers in this county. Population,
5,292 ; dwellings, 905 ; farms, 478 ; manufactories, 12.
The Stageroad, from Peru to Galena, crosses Rock river,
at Dixon.
In the southeastern part of Lee county are two pleasant
and valuable groves, with fine settlements of good farmers
in and around them ; one is known as Malugin's Grove ;
and the other, as Slial-le-na1 s Grove ; it is so called from
an Indian Chief of that name, who was friendly to the
whites, and rendered good and timely service to them, in
time of the Black Hawk war, by keeping a watch on the
stealth and advance of the Indians, and giving the inhabit
ants warning of their movements, which, in some instances,
saved the whites from massacre.
Shabbena lives in this grove ; which, with a tract of
prairie adjoining it, was reserved and donated to him by
the Government ; much of which, however, some graceless
villains in that region have contrived to swindle him out
of, and apparently with impunity. He is now very old,
and is a man of noble nature, sagacity, and peaceful dispo
sitions ; and is justly deserving similar honors as are paid
to white heroes who have protected or rendered service to
their kind in times of conflict and danger.
On the Stageroad from Aurora to Dixon are some fine
farms, beside several small and growing villages, among
which are Pawpaw, Little Rock, Johnson's Grove, Inlet,
264 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
and some others. And from Dixon to Galena the Stage-
route is through Buffalo Grove, Elhorn and Cherry Groves,
and several others, all pleasant and desirable locations.
DIXON is the county-seat, and is handsomely situated
on Rock river. Lee Center is a pleasant little village, on
a fine prairie, nearly ceijtral in the county.
Logan county is situated on Sangamon river, and con
tains a large amount of prairie, with some timber and
swamp. Population, 5,128 ; dwellings, 835 ; farms, 476 ;
manufactories, 14.
POSTVILLE, the county-seat, is handsomely situated in a
bend of the Sangamon.
Marshall county is a new one, and lies on both sides of
the Illinois, and contains both prairie and timber, with
some bottom land ; it is watered by Sand and Crow
creeks. Population, 5,180 ; dwellings, 1,132 ; farms, 464;
manufactories, 11.
LACON, on the Illinois, is the county-seat ; it is a place
of considerable business, and, like most of the towns on
that river, is advancing briskly.
Mason county is a new one, lying on the east side of
the Illinois, and north of Sangamon river ; it has consider
able prairie, with some timber and marsh. Population,
5,921 ; dwellings, 1,041 ; farms, 727; manufactories, 3.
BATH is the county-seat, pleasantly situated on a prairie.
Havanna is a shipping town, on the Illinois, for most of
this county.
Massac is one of the new counties, in a bend of the
Ohio river, opposite the mouth of the Tennessee ; it is
heavily timbered with some sloughs. Population, 4,092 ;
dwellings, 704 ; farms, 385; manufactories, 11.
METROPOLIS is the county-seat, situated on the Ohio
river.
Menard county is located on Sangamon river, and em
braces prairie and timber of good quality. Population,
COUNTIES TOWNS. 265
6,349; dwellings, 1,035; farms, 706; manufactories,
38.
PETERSBURG is the county-seat, pleasantly situated on
the Sangamon.
Macoupin county lies north of Madison, and is watered
by Macoupin river, its tributaries, and Otter creek ; it is
a good county of land, mostly prairie, and settled by a
worthy class of farmers. Population, 12,355 ; dwellings,
2,137; farms, 1,183; manufactories, 24.
CARLINVILLE is the county-seat, situated on a pleasant
prairie near the river. There are other fine villages in this
county.
Marion county lies about half way between the Wabash
and Mississippi; and is watered by the Embarrass and
other smaller streams ; it is part of Grand Prairie. Pop
ulation, 6,720 ; dwellings, 1,132; farms, 827; manufacto
ries, 9.
SALEM, the county-seat, is a pleasant village on the bor
ders of Grand Prairie, at the head of Crooked creek.
Macdonough county occupies a portion of the Bounty
Tract, and about midway between the Illinois and Missis
sippi ; it is watered by Crooked creek ; the soil is mostly
a rich prairie. Population, 7,616 ; dwellings, 1,262 ; farms,
843 ; manufactories, 19.
MACOMB, the county-seat, is pleasantly situated on a fer
tile prairie ; Macdonough College, a valuable institution, is
located here.
McHenry county is on the north line of the State, em
bracing both fine prairie and good timber ; it is watered by
Fox river and branches of Kishwaukee. Crystal lake is in
this county, with a pleasant town of the same name in. its
vicinity. There are many fine farms and beautiful pros
pects in this county, with pleasant groves and prairies, and
small villages. Population, 14,979 ; dwellings, 2,650 ;
farms, 1,950 ; manufactories, 17.
23
266 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
WOODSTOCK is the county-seat, situated in a pleasant
grove, near a small brook. McHenry, formerly the county-
seat, i^ situated on a small mill creek which empties into
Fox river.
McLean county lies east of Tazewell, and is watered by
the Sangamon river and some other streams ; the soil is good,
divided between prairie and forest ; good coal and building
stone are found in different parts of the county. Popula
tion, 10,163; dwellings, 1,851; farms, 916; manufacto
ries, 3.
BLOOMINGTON, the county-seat, is beautifully located on
a fine prairie, at the head of a small stream.
Mercer county occupies a northern portion of the Bounty
Tract, on the Mississippi, and is watered by Edwards,
Pope, and Henderson rivers ; the soil is of a good quality,
with plenty of timber. Population, 5,246 ; dwellings,
892; farms, 517.
MILLERSBURG, situated on Edwards river, is the county-
seat. Keithsburg, on the Mississippi, is the chief business
town. New Boston was formerly the county-seat.
Monroe county is in the southwest part of the State, on
the Mississippi ; the interior is watered by several small
streams ; a portion of the county is level and fertile, and
another portion is hilly and broken. Population, 7,679 ;
dwellings, 1,421 ; farms, 874; manufactories, 33.
WATERLOO, the county-seat, is situated in prairie and
grove, on elevated ground, and is a pleasant, growing village.
Macon county is situated on the north fork of the San
gamon, and is also watered by some branches of the Kas-
kaskia ; the land is mostly prairie, of a good quality, with
some timber ; and some portions rather wet. Population,
3,988 ; dwellings, 693 ; farms, 487 ; manufactories, 17.
DECATUR is the county-seat, a thriving village on the
Sangamon. Clinton and Franklin are thrifty, promising
towns in this countv.
COUNTIES TOWNS MONK HILL. 267
Madison county is one of the best and most important
in the State ; situated on the Mississippi, opposite the mouth
of the Missouri. This county, both on account of its soil
and situation, possesses great advantages. Part of it lies
in the American Bottom. It extends from the mouth of
the Kaskaskia river to Alton, a few miles above the mouth
of the Missouri ; above this, the bank is high, watered by
fine springs, and contains building stone and coal of the
best quality. The interior of the county is generally ele
vated and undulating.
On the banks of the Mississippi, below Alton, it is low
and wet, and in many places marshy. No soil, however,
can exceed it in fertility. Upon ascending the bluff which
bounds this Bottom upon the east, there is a district of
country which continues eastward to the Kaskaskia river,
and is called the Table-Land. This is also very fertile.
The banks of the streams which run through the interior of
this county are generally well-wooded, leaving between
them prairies of considerable size. Wheat, corn, beef, pork,
horses, cattle, and almost every production of Illinois,
are raised in this county, and find a ready market at Alton.
Monk Hill, situated on the American Bottom, is eight
miles northeasterly from St. Louis. The circumference at
the base is about 600 yards, and its hight about 90 feet.
On the south side, about half way down, is a broad step or
apron, about 15 feet wide. This hill, or mound, was the
residence, for several years, of the monks of the order of
La Trappe. Their monastery was originally situated in
the district of Perche, in France, in one of the most lonely
spots that could be chosen. They fled from the commo
tions of that kingdom to America, lived for a time in Ken
tucky, and came to Illinois in 1806 or 1807, and settled on
this mound. Population, 20,436 ; dwellings, 3,490 ; farms,
1,367 ; manufactories, 182.
EDWAKDSVILLE is the county-seat, and is well and pleas-
268 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
antly situated east of the river, amid a finely improved
farming country.
But ALTON is the chief town ; and, in fact, the largest
place on the Mississippi, above St. Louis, and has fair
prospects of becoming a saucy rival to that city. It already
contains twelve to fourteen thousand population, and is rap
idly increasing. Shurtleff College, and other institutions
of learning, are located here, of a high character.
The Alton Telegraph gives the following as the receipts of lumber
at that port since the opening of navigation to the 1st October :
Plank, Joists, and Scantling, ft., 5,800,000
Shingles, 4,470,000
Lath, 3,063,000
Moultrie county is one of the new counties, lying on the
head waters of the Kaskaskia and Sangamon rivers ; con
taining portions of timber and prairies, of good quality.
Population, 3,234 ; dwellings, 554 ; farms, 304 ; manufac
tories, 11.
AUBURN, the county-seat, is pleasantly situated on a
small stream, near the borders of a prairie. Julian and
Livingston are other towns in this county.
Montgomery county is located between Bond and Sanga
mon, and is watered by Sangamon river, with Macoupin,
Shoal, and other creeks; it contains much prairie, with
some timber. Population, 6,270 ; dwellings, 1,051 ;
farms, 811; manufactories, 17.
HILLSBORO, the county-seat, is a thriving village, situ
ated on elevated ground, near Shoal creek. Zanesville
and Douglass are other towns in this county.
Morgan county is located on the east bank of the Illi
nois, and is one of the most thickly populated and highly
cultivated counties in the state, with good land and im
provements ; it is watered by Apple, Mauvaiseterre, and
Sandy creeks ; the Morgan and Sangamon Railroad, which
commences at Naples, on the Illinois, in Scott county,
TOWNS OREGON CITY. 269
runs eastward through Jacksonville, in Morgan county, to
Springfield, in Sangamon county. Population, 16,164;
dwellings, 2,661 ; farms, 1,574 ; manufactories, 89.
JACKSONVILLE, the county-seat, is one of the most ele
gant and finished towns in the state, beautifully located in
the edge of a pleasant prairie, near a small creek. The
Illinois State College, an excellent and flourishing institu
tion, is located here, on a delightful eminence ; there are
also other institutions of education in this place.
Ogle county lies on Rock river, and is one of the finest
in the state ; it contains a large amount of excellent rolling
prairie, with a fair share of timber, and is watered by
some small streams running into the river ; there is an
excellent seminary at Mount Morris, in this county.
Population, 10,020; dwellings, 1,678; farms, 1,058;
manufactories, 30.
OREGON CITY, a thriving village on Rock river, is the
county-seat. t Grand de Tour, a flourishing town, doing
considerable manufacturing business, is situated on Rock
river in this county.
The towns in this county are noted for the manufacture
of farming implements.
The following description of Oregon City and Ogle
county was given some years ago in the New York Star :
" This place of course (as well as others on Rock river) is in its
very infancy ; but a more lovely site for an important town could
not have been selected, and soon the noise and clamor of manufac
tures and extensive traffic will give it life and animation. The
bluif, which follows the river until it reaches the town, leaves it
and falls back for a mile, forming the half of a circle, and meets it
again just below in picturesque grandeur. The situation of Ore
gon City itself has forcibly reminded me of Palermo, the capital of
Sicily, surrounded on the land side by a chain of mountains, form
ing a complete amphitheater, which has been poetically called the
* Conco FOra? or Golden Shell. The banks of Rock river are not
so high as those in the Sicilian landscape ; but, contrasted with the
270 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
wide expanse of country around, are quite as effective, and more
rich in fertile charms. The swelling of the prairies, gemmed with
wild flowers of every hue, the stately forest, and valleys inter
spersed with shady groves on the opposite side of the river sur
rounding Hyde Park, from which we started the wild and bounding
deer in great numbers, form features rarely to be met with in a
single glance of the eye, either in this or any other country ; and
amid all these beauties,
" 'The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground,
And all its thousand turns disclose
Some fresher beauty varying round.'
" This fairy-land was the scene of human slaughter during the
war of 1832 and '33, with the Sac and Fox Indians and the United
States, conducted by the celebrated chief Black Hawk and the
Prophet, who, after their capture, ceded the country east of the
Mississippi to the United States, including the Rock river from its
mouth, or nearly so, to the dividing line between Illinois and Wis
consin territory. Above this are scattered along the western shore
of the river a line of mounds, more ancient than even the wild and
fabulous traditions of the Indians. A hardy class of New England
settlers are now tilling these extensive plains. The Indian gardens
are now grown up with tall rank weeds, and the war-cry is only
heard beyond the- Mississippi. The last of the savages left in
May, 1836. Since I have seen this fair field, this noble river, I
am no longer surprised that the Indian, whose eloquence is the
poetry of nature, clung with such tenacity to this country, so pass
ing lovely in itself, and containing their homes and the sepulchers
of their dead warriors."
Peoria county is located on the west side of the Illinois.
I have before described this section, in the trip down Illi
nois river ; it has a central position on the east line of the
Bounty Tract; it has valuable coal mines. Population,
17,547 ; dwellings, 3,036 ; farms, 1,191 ; manufactories,
134.
The following farther description is taken from a com
munication in the Peoria Register of 1837 :
" Peoria is well divided into prairie and timber land, of about
equal quantities of each. To have a correct idea of the form,
COUNTIES TOWNS. 271
beauty, and peculiar adaptation of our prairies to farming pur
poses, the reader will recollect that five streams of no inconsidera
ble magnitude water this county, all of which, with the exception
of French creek, run a southerly direction into the Illinois river.
Snatchwine (' Elbow') passes through the northeast part of the
county; Kickapoo, with its east, north, and west forks, through
the center ; and Lamarche and Copperas creeks through the west.
Spoon river runs along near the northern border, and French
creek has a westward course through the north part of the county.
All of these streams are bordered by timber from one to two miles
wide (save the interval bottoms), the prairies occupying the bal
ance of the space between, and descending in delightful slopes
toward the timber, from the dividing ridge in the center. Thus, it
will be seen at a glance that the whole county is admirably divided
into alternate tracts of timber and prairie land. No county in the
state has more facilities for speedily enriching the industrious
farmer than Peoria."
PEORIA, the county-seat, is situated on the river at the
foot of the lake, and is one of the most beautiful towns in
all the West.
Perry county is a small one, situated on the Beaucoup
creek, east of Randolph county ; it is also watered by
branches of the Big Muddy ; it is a good county of land,
and pretty well cultivated. Population, 5,278 ; dwellings,
967 ; farms, 638 ; manufactories, 7.
PICKNEYVILLE, the county-seat, is located on the Beau-
coup, in the border of a prairie, and is a pleasant, thriving
village.
Pyatt county is situated on the Upper Sangamon, and
west of Champaign county ; it is a new county, and con
tains good land, both prairie and timber. Population,
1,606 ; dwellings, 157 ; farms, 163 ; manufactories, 2.
MONTECELLO, the county-seat, is pleasantly situated on
the Sangamon.
Pike county is located in the southern part of the
Bounty Tract, and contains much timber with some prai
rie ; it is watered by Beaucoup and Little Muddy creeks ;
272 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
its lands are good, both prairie and timber, and well culti
vated. Population, 18,819; dwellings, 8,152; farms,
1,382; manufactories, 37.
PITTSFIELD, the county-seat, is located on a high, pleas
ant prairie, in the borders of fine timber. There are many
other fine villages in this county.
Pope county is located in the southeastern part of the
state on the Ohio ; it is watered by Bay, Lusk, and Grand
Peirre creeks ; its soil is rather sandy, composed of both
timber and prairie. Population, 3,975 ; dwellings, 747 ;
farms, 504; manufactories, 12.
GOLCONDA is the county-seat, situated on the Ohio, a
short distance below good quarries of building stone.
Pulaski county is a new one, situated in the southern
part of the state, between Cash creek and the Ohio ; it
contains considerable timber, with some fine bottom lands.
Population, 2,265 ; dwellings, 418 ; farms, 266 ; manu
factories, 18.
CALEDONIA is the county-seat, located on the Ohio river,
and is a place of some business. Napoleon is a village in
this county.
Putnam county, lying on the Illinois, mostly in the
great bend, contains much excellent prairie, with a fair
proportion of good timber ; it is watered by Bureau,
Crow, and Sandy creeks. Population, 3,924; dwellings,
636 ; farms, 317 ; manufactories, 26.
HENNEPIN is the county-seat, situated on the east bank
of the Illinois, occupying a high and pleasant position,
and is a place of considerable business.
An early account of Putnam county was given in the
Hennepin Journal, as follows :
" Almost every county in the state has had its topography and
history published to the world, in some of the public journals of
the day ; while of ours, which is one of the most important in the
northern part of the state, there has been nothing said ; and at a
COUNTIES TOWNS HENNEPIN. 273
distance, there are few who have heard that there is such a county
in the state as Putnam. And in order to obviate this, and let the
readers of the Journal at a distance know something of this region,
and its progress of improvement, we will attempt a brief account
of the history and topography of Putnam county.
"Putnam county was organized in the year 1831, but did not
increase rapidly in population until after the termination of the
Black Hawk war in 1832 and '33. But after the conclusion of hos
tilities, and when security was restored to the settler, immigrants
came in from every quarter of the Union, and spread over the
country in every direction like a flood, so that nearly every grove
of timber soon found an inhabitant of a very diiferent stamp from
the native red man, who, but a short time since, was lord of the
grove and the prairie, and who roamed over these fair plains unmo
lested, having none to dispute his right to the soil, or disturb him
in his scenes of pleasure at his wigwam, and enjoyments of the
chase.
" We have no hesitation in saying that Putnam county possesses
agricultural and commercial advantages equal to those of any
county in the state, and that it has as beautiful a surface and as
rich a soil, with as good a supply of timber, as is found anywhere
in the West. The land being dry and rolling, is pleasant and easy
to cultivate, and yields to the industrious farmer an abundant re
ward for his labor, producing every thing incident to the climate
in the greatest profusion, and with an ease to the cultivator that
would appear almost incredible to the people of the states farther
east, who are accustomed to a hard and sterile soil, when compared
with ours.
" The inhabitants of this county are enterprising and intelligent,
having emigrated mainly from Ohio, New York, and New England ;
and coming here with their accustomed habits of industry, they
soon succeed in subduing these fertile prairies to a state of high
cultivation."
Randolph county lies on the Mississippi, and is located
on both sides of the Kaskaskia, and contains much tim
bered land with little prairie ; the surface is undulating
and hilly in places. Population, 11,070 ; dwellings, 2,046 ;
farms, 1,100; manufactories, 36.
The following description of old Fort Chartres is taken
from " Illinois in 1837:"
274 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
"In the northwestern part of the county are the ruins of Fort
Chartres, a large stone fortification, erected by the French while
in possession of Illinois. It is situated half a mile from the Mis
sissippi, and three miles from Prairie du Rocher.
" It was originally built by the French in 1720, to defend them
selves against the Spaniards, who were then taking possession of
the country on the Mississippi. It was rebuilt in 1756. The cir
cumstances, character, form, and history of this fort, are interest
ing, as it is intimately connected with the early history of this
country. Once it was a most formidable piece of masonry, the
materials of which were brought from the bluffs, three or four
miles distant. It was originally an irregular quadrangle, the ex
terior sides of which were 490 feet in circumference. Within the
walls were the commandant's and commissary's houses, a maga
zine for stores, barracks, powder-magazine, bake-house, guard
house, and prison.
" This prodigious military work is now a heap of ruins. Many
of the hewn stones have been removed by the people to Kaskaskia.
A slough from the Mississippi approached and undermined the
wall on one side in 1772. Over the whole fort is a considerable
growth of trees, and most of its walls and buildings have fallen
down, and lie in one promiscuous ruin."
CHESTER, the county-seat, is well located on the east
bank of the Mississippi, some miles below the month of
the Kaskaskia ; and is a place of large commercial busi
ness ; Kaskaskia the early capital of the territory was for
merly the county-seat.
Prairie du Rocher is an ancient French village, in the
northwest part of the county, on the American Bottom,
near the rocky bluffs, from which it derives its name, and
14 miles northwest of Kaskaskia. It is in a low, un
healthy situation, along a small creek of the same name,
which rises in the bluffs, passes across the American Bot
tom, and enters the Mississippi. The houses are built
in the French style, the streets very narrow, and the in
habitants preserve more of the simplicity of character and
habits peculiar to early times, than in any other village in
Illinois.
COUNTIES TOWNS SANG AM ON. 275
Rock Island county, with its county-seat, ROCK ISLAND,
were described in the Mississippi tour. Population,
6,937; dwellings, 1,246; farms, 585; manufactories, 21.
Among the other business, there is considerable boat
building done here.
Richland is one of the new counties, situated between
Lawrence and Clay counties ; it contains a large portion
of prairie, and is well watered by Fox and Bonpas creeks.
Population, 4,012; dwellings, 704; farms, 204; manu
factories, 3.
OLNEY is the county-seat, a pleasant little village situated
on a small stream in the edge of a prairie.
Saline is a new county, lying west of Gallatin, and is
generally timbered; it is watered by Saline and other
creeks. Population, 5,588 ; dwellings, 961 ; farms, 678 ;
manufactories, 11.
RALEIGH is the county-seat, situated on a branch of
Saline creek, on a pleasant elevation.
Sangamon is one of the most thrifty counties in the
State, and is thickly settled ; it is diversified with prairie
and timber; and is watered by the Sangamon and its
branches. Population, 19,228; dwellings, 3,173; farms,
1,578; manufactories, 92.
SPRINGFIELD, the State Capital, is also the county-seat ;
and is located in a beautiful prairie, sprinkled about with
fine groves. This place has enjoyed a rapid growth, and
is becoming improved and ornamented with much ele
gance. The Railroad from Illinois river passes through
Springfield, and runs on east some eight miles to Roches
ter, ultimately to be continued to the Wabash. Although
a new place, Springfield already numbers several thousand
population, and is the depot for a large amount of business,
sustained by a rich and enterprising country.
The following extract of a letter, dated Springfield,
March 2, 1837, contains matter that will be interesting
270 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
to many early residents as well as new immigrants, in this
region :
" Our Far West is improving rapidly, astonishingly. It is five
years since I visited it, and the changes within that period are like
the work of enchantment. Flourishing towns have grown up,
farms have been opened, and comfortable dwellings, fine barns and
all appurtenances, steam-mills and manufacturing establishments
erected, in a country in which the hardy pioneer had at that time
sprinkled a few log cabins. The conception of Coleridge may be
realized sooner than he anticipated ; ' The possible destiny of the
United States of America, as a nation of a hundred millions of
freemen — stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, living under
the laws of Alfred, and speaking the language of Shakspeare and
Milton, is an august conception — why should we not wish to see it
realized ?' On the subject of internal improvements the young
giant of the West is making herculean efforts. A bill passed the
Legislature, a few days since, appropriating eight millions of dollars
for Railroads, Canals, etc. ; works which, when completed, will
cost twenty millions.
" On Monday last another bill was passed, transferring the Seat
of Government from Vandalia in Fayette county to this place —
Springfield — which is in the fertile district of Sangamon county ;
and, as near as may be, the geographical center of the State, and
soon will be the Center of population. There will be but one more
session at Vandalia.
" The State of Illinois has probably the finest body of fertile land
of any State in the Union, and the opportunities for speculation
are numerous. Property will continue to advance ; admirable
farms and town-lots may be purchased with a certainty of realiz
ing large profits. The country here is beautiful — equal in native
.attractions, though not in classic recollections, to the scenes I vis
ited and admired in Italy. The vale of Arno is not more beautiful
than the valley of Sangamon, with its lovely groves, murmuring
brooks, and flowery meads —
" ' Oh Italy, sweet clime of song, where oft
The bard hath sung thy beauties, matchless deemed,
Thou hast a rival in this Western Land !' "
Scott is a small, new county, on the east bank of the
Illinois, with considerable timber; it is watered by the
COUNTIES TOWNS. 277
Mauvaisterre and Plume creeks. Population, 7,914;
dwellings, 1,300; farms, 712; manufactories, 54.
NAPLES is the principal commercial town, situated on
the Illinois, and is a place of considerable business. It is
the western terminus of the Sangamon Railroad.
WINCHESTER, nearly in the center of the county, is a
fine and thriving town, and is the county-seat.
Schuyler county is located on the west bank of the Il
linois ; it is an excellent county of land, conveniently
divided between timber and prairie ; and well watered by
Crooked and Sugar creeks ; it is settled with thrifty
farmers, and presents many thriving villages. Population,
10,573; dwellings, 1,783; farms, 624; manufactories,
52.
RUSHVILLE, a handsome, flourishing village, is the county-
seat ; it occupies a pleasant location on the borders of a
fertile prairie, skirted by fine timber, at the head of a
small stream. Huntsville is another flourishing village in
this county.
Shelby is a prairie county, with some timber, and lo
cated well up on the Kaskaskia river, and watered by its
head branches. Population, 7,807; dwellings, 1,411;
farms, 834 ; manufactories, 7.
SHELBYVILLE, the county-seat, occupies an elevated and
pleasant situation on the Kaskaskia. In this county are
several fine towns and groves.
Stark county is located on Spoon river, north of Peoria ;
it contains fair proportions of prairie and timber ; and is
watered by Spoon creek and branches. Population,
3,710 ; dwellings, 594 ; farms, 343 ; manufactories, 23.
TOULON, the county-seat, is situated on the border of a
prairie, near the head of a small stream ; and is a pleasant,
healthy place.
St. Clair county is located between the Mississippi and
Kaskaskia rivers ; it is composed of prairie and timber, and
24
278 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
portions of it hilly, with a portion of the American Bot
tom lying in one corner of it ; it is watered by Richland
and Silver creeks. This county lies opposite St. Louis,
and supplies that city with large amounts of excellent
coal, and great quantities of agricultural produce. Pop
ulation, 20,181 ; dwellings, 3,727; farms, 1,961; manu
factories, 62.
BELLVILLE, the county-seat, is a fine flourishing town, oc
cupying a pleasant and elevated position on a fertile prairie,
some 12 miles east of Illinois Town, which is on the Mis
sissippi. At Lebanon, in this county, is McKendrie Col
lege, a valuable institution. Cahokia, an early French
post, is in this county.
In regard to the coal operations of this county, the
Chicago Democrat, in October, 1851, makes the following
announcement :
" This Company was organized some three or four years since.
Its object is to furnish the market of St. Louis with a supply of
coal from the bluffs on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, some
ten miles from the city. Ex-Governor Casey and Judge Scates are
among the principal stockholders of the Company. Colonel O'Fal-
lon and Dr. Barrett, of St. Louis, are also interested in it. A
town had been laid off on the Company's lands at the foot of the
bluffs, to which the name of Caseyville has been given. The Com
pany have constructed a Railroad from the river at Illinois Town,
opposite St. Louis, to the bluff. They have fifty coal cars, each
capable of holding one hundred tons. The road was built at a
cost of $120,000. It is thought an arrangement will be perfected
with some of the roads projected across the State, to terminate at
Illinois Town, to unite with this road, and in view of such proba
bility, it has been built in a most substantial manner. On the
22d September a train passed over the road for the first time, on
which occasion a number of invited guests visited Caseyville, and
partook of a free dinner."
Stephenson county lies between Jo Daviess and Win-
nebago counties, on the northern line of the State ; it con
tains the best of prairie and timber lands, in due proper-
TAZEWELL UNION GRAND TOWER. 279
tions, and is thickly settled and much cultivated ; a portion
of the Mineral district extends into this county; it is
watered by the Peckatonica, and other smaller streams.
Population, 11,666; dwellings, 1,950; farms, 1,179;
manufactories, 75.
FREEPORT, the county-seat, is a very thriving village,
near the junction of Yellow creek with the Peckatonica ;
it is bordered in different directions by prairies and groves ;
the Chicago and Galena Railroad route passes through
this town, and will be in operation to here early next
year.
Situated on the borders of both farming and mineral
lands, as it does, Freeport must continue to have much
growth ; and like the county the town contains an enter
prising population.
Tazewell is a new and excellent prairie county, on the
east of Illinois river ; it contains a fair share of timber,
and is watered by Mackinaw and other creeks ; it is
thickly settled and well cultivated. Population, 12,052 ;
dwellings, 1,991 ; farms, 1,110; manufactories, 76.
TREMONT, the county-seat, is pleasantly situated on a
beautiful elevated prairie, and is a place of considerable
trade. Pekin, on the river, is the principal commercial
town of the county.
Union county is located in the southern part of the
State, on the Mississippi, below the Big Muddy river. To
the northwest of this county is the Grand Tower.
JONESBORO, is the county-seat, and pleasantly located in
the skirts of a fine grove of timber, with fair prospects of
some growth. Population of the county is 7,615 ; dwell
ings, 1,289 ; farms, 810 ; manufactories, 21.
Vermillion is a county of good land, on the eastern line
of the state, and is thickly populated; it contains fair
proportions of prairie and timber land, of good quality ;
and is watered by the Big and Little Vermillion rivers,
280 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
with a branch of Saline creek, from which salt is manu
factured. Population, 11,492; dwellings, 1,985; farms,
1,269 ; manufactories, 15.
DANVILLE, the county-seat, is a beautiful and flourishing
village, of large business and fine prospects ; it is situated
on the Big Vermillion, between two small streams empty
ing into it ; its position is on a sandy elevation, with prai
rie on one side and timber on the other. It lies due south
of Chicago, about 130 miles on the stageroad to Vin-
cennes, on the Wabash. This town with the county are
considered among the best on the east border of the state.
Wabash is the smallest county in the state, situated on
the west bank of the Wabash, and opposite White river,
in Indiana, and the Rapids and Coffee Islands in the Wa
bash ; the land is prairie and timber, and cultivated by a
pretty thick population of thriving farmers ; it is watered
on the west line by Bonpas creek. Population, 4,690 ;
dwellings, 808 ; farms, 533 ; manufactories, 9.
MOUNT CARMEL, the county-seat, is situated on the
Wabash below the Rapids, and is a place of increasing
business. Centreville and Armstrong are other towns in
this county.
Warren county lies east of Henderson, and in the
western part of the Bounty Tract ; it consists of the best
of land, both prairie and timber ; it is watered by Hen
derson river, and some smaller streams. Good coal and
limestone are found here. Population, 8,170; dwellings,
1,401 ; farms, 956 ; manufactories, 42.
MONMOUTH, the county-seat, is pleasantly located on a
fertile prairie, and is a thriving village, near the head of
Cedar creek.
Washington county is located on the south of Kaskas-
kia river, and is watered by Elk, Big Beaucoup, and
Crooked creeks ; it contains much fine prairie with a fair
share of good timber, and is pretty well settled and cul-
WAYNE WHITE WHITESIDES WILL. 281
tivated ; Grand Prairie runs into the north side of this
county. Population, (5,953 ; dwellings, 1,288 ; farms, 829 ;
manufactories, 9.
NASHVILLE, the county-seat, is pleasantly located on a
rich prairie, near the head of a small stream, and is a
flourishing village. Okau, Beaucoup, and Elkhorn are
other towns in this county.
Wayne county contains much timber, with some good
prairie ; it is watered by the Little Wabash, Elm, and
Skillet creeks; and is pretty well populated with good
farmers. Population, 6,825 ; dwellings, 1,209 ; farms,
492 ; manufactories, 6.
FAIRFIELD, the county-seat, is a pleasant village, situ
ated on the borders of a fertile prairie, and is doing a
thriving business.
White county is located on the west bank of the Wa
bash, with the Little Wabash running through it from
north to south ; the land is mostly timbered, with some
scattering prairies, which are much cultivated. Popula
tion, 8,925; dwellings, 1,537; farms, 1,101; manufac
tories, 22.
CARMI, the county-seat, is a pleasant town situated on
the Little Wabash.
Whitesides county lies on both sides of Eock river, and
is otherwise watered by Elkhorn and Rock creeks. It
contains much good prairie and a fair share of timber.
Population, 5,361 ; dwellings, 923 ; farms, 404 ; manu
factories, 24.
STERLING is the new county-seat ; it is handsomely sit
uated on the banks of Rock river, mostly surrounded by
a beautiful prairie ; the noted Merredosia slough is in this
county. Lynden was formerly the county-seat ; Como,
Albany, Union Grove, Fulton, and Prophetstown, are
other towns of this county.
Will county, and JOLIET, are described in the Canal
282 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
district. People visiting this county to purchase lands,
will find it to their interest to call on Mr. A. J. MATHEW-
SON, at Lockport, a surveyor and engineer, possessing ex
tensive knowledge of the West.
Winnebago is located on both sides of Rock river, and is
one of the best counties in the State ; its prairies are rich,
and much cultivated ; they are interspersed by pleasant
groves of timber ; it is among the best portions of the cel
ebrated '; Rock River Country ;" and in no part of its course
does that river present a handsomer appearance than in
this county; at Rockford it affords an excellent water-
power, which is well improved ; while its banks furnish
abundance of good building and limestone ; the Kishwaukee,
on the east, and Peckatonica, on the west, are two rivers
which empty into Rock river in this county ; and near the
mouth of the former are elevated prairies which command
some of the finest views in the State. Population, 11,773 ;
dwellings, 1,979; farms, 919, manufactories, 14.
The fertile prairies of the West seem to be as inspiring
to poets, as they are attractive to the soil-tiller. The fol
lowing beautiful " Hymn from the Prairies," was written
by Mr. J. CLEMENT, last summer, while on a tour through
Illinois and Wisconsin :
" I've felt thy presence, O my God 1
In gorges deep, amid the roar
Of torrents, shooting far abroad,
And shaking earth's firm, rocky floor.
" I've felt thy presence on the hights
Of hills, sky-cleaving and sublime,
Where thoughts are bred for angel flights,
And near to heaven the soul may climb.
"Fve felt thy presence 'mid the swell
Of billows leaping to the sky ;
While Fancy, shocked at Furies' yell,
Rolled Death's black waves before the eye.
" But gorges deep and mountains grand,
And e'en the Fury-ridden sea,
No more than this broad Prairie-land
The presence, Lord, bespeak of thee.
WINNEBAGO — ;ROCKFORD. 283
" The hand that smoothed these boundless plains,
And fashioned all their charms, is Thine ;
And e'en the silence here that reigns,
Is eloquent of power divine.
" This holy hush at noontide hour,
Amid this sea-like field of bloom,
Steals o'er me with a soothing power,
Like whispers from a Hope-lit tomb.
" Amid thy solemn fields below,
Permit me, Lord, to often rove,
And daily make me humbler grow,
Till fit for holier fields above."
ROCKFORD, the county-seat, is one of the most beautiful
and prosperous villages on Rock river ; it does a large,
active business, and contains many fine buildings and mills ;
it is connected with Chicago by a Telegraph line which
passes through the towns on the Railroad route ; the Chi
cago and Galena Railroad is to be completed to this place
during the coming winter. The prairie fires, in the West,
are much noted, and truly magnificent spectacles. Roscoe,
Rockton, JN"ewburg, and Harrison, are other towns in this
county.
Williamson is a new county, located in the southern part
of the State; composed of portions of prairie and timber;
it is watered by the head streams of Saline and Big Muddy
rivers. Population, 7,216; dwellings, 1,195; farms, 752;
manufactories, 10.
MARION, the county-seat, is pleasantly located on the
borders of grove and prairie. Bainbridge and Sarahville
are other towns in this county.
Woodford is a new county, situated on the east bank of
Peoria lake and Illinois river ; it consists of much prairie
and little timber, but of good quality of soil ; it is watered
by branches of Mackinaw and Crow creeks. Population,
4,416; dwellings, 747; farms, 506; manufactories, 14.
METAMORA, the county-seat, is located on a pleasant and
fertile prairie. Woodford and Blackpartridge are other
towns in the county.
284 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
KECAPITULATION. — Total population, 851,470 ; whole
number of dwellings, 146,544 ; whole number of farms,
76,208 ; whole number of manufacturing establishments,
producing annually five hundred dollars or upward, 3,099.
NORTH AND SOUTH. — The northern portion of the State
is less rough than the southern, though it is rolling and
contains more prairie, with the richest bottom and allu
vial lands, and most favorable for corn; the south has
more marsh and timber, but the north presents more
smooth prairie and isolated groves, which thus exhibits
more beauty to the eye of the spectator.
Here a beautiful scene lies spread out before the eye;
it is one of nature's portraits, most in harmony with Om
niscient Love, who ordained it for man's comfort ; frigid
and infidel, indeed, must be the being whose mind could
not admire and harmonize with it; small hillocks, with
vales between, rolled away successively ; the Earth looks
a luxuriant, almost voluptuous form, arrayed in glorious
robes, tinted and green, whose fruitful bosom is ever ready
to yield fruition and vital sustenance to all who trustingly
nestle there ; such was the charming picture displayed be
fore the zealous, active toiler, as it undulated before him,
with soft swells and valley-dimples, almost breathing with
life, as its rich, glowing, verdure-robes waved in the breeze,
gently rising and falling like the maternal bosom when
agitated by emotions of affection ; and then the whole face
cheered into brighter gladness by the Sun's ardent kisses,
as he imprinted them while the fitful passing clouds re
moved their mystic veil from the enamored features ; and
all this is fruitful harmony in obedience to the laws of the
Author-love, so long as constancy cultivates and sincerity
sanctifies.
Yet, storms will pass ; uniform tranquility remains not
with Earth, with man; for life is everywhere, and so
change ; transgression has stalked forth, and so confusion ;
WILD AND LEGITIMATE CULTURE. 285
after agitation, though, comes rest, and deeper joy ; for
revolution, excitement, intensifies feeling, and contrast
hightens appreciation. The sun shines brighter after the
sable cloud-storm, and the landscape sparkles brighter un
der the starry rain-drops just sprinkled over it.
Then, O man, learn cheerfully alike to endure stormy
agitations and welcome fervent sun-kisses ; for there is no
fructification on earth without both.
The kernel, casually scattered by the way-side, or in
temporary stealth planted beneath the shade-bush, will
still reproduce, even under only fitful glimpses of sun-love,
through clouding-boughs, and watered only by the dew-
tears violently shaken down by the ruthless blast ; but,
how much more bountiful and gratifying is the fruit gath
ered from the permanency of enlightened culture. The
wild vine that climbs, at random, the craggy oak will bear
fruit; yet how far sweeter and enduring is the cluster
gathered from the vine which is vitalized by the same sun-
kisses, but led by the legitimate and intelligent hand along
the clean trellis ordained to its use.
In no place have I ever beheld the Thunder Storm ex
hibit so much terrific grandeur, so much of the Mighty
One's oratory, as while traversing one of the vast prairies
of the West.
Once in the summer of '48, 1 had set out on foot to travel
westward over one of those green, undulating prairies, be
tween Rock river and the Mineral district, in the after
noon. I had been stepping on some hour or two, over
the light swells and gentle slopes, when the storm came
buzzing and bellowing portentously after me ; directly I
turned to look at the approaching storm, when soon an in
describably grand conflict, or agitation of the elements,
was presented, where lightnings, thunders, rain, and wind,
seemed to be contending for the mastery, in their startling
displays. Thunder-bursts held you in awe, flashes of
286 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
lightning would make you start and shrink; gusts of
wind whirled you in the high grass; and rain torrents
drenched you to the skin : yet, suffering and dreading all,
you felt no power or will to escape — there was no retreat,
no refuge — the jarring sounds vibrated on every hand,
torrents and blaze poured around in every direction, the
muscles, alike with volition, seemed paralyzed — two sensa
tions alone took possession of you, awe and admiration ;
which, anon, as you looked aloft into the dread concave,
were resolved into that of heart-homage for Him who
holdeth the storms in His hand. The herds which grazed
upon these luxuriant meadows ran, in confused fright,
down the vales to the groves ; the crane and wild-bird flew,
screaming with fear, to the forests for shelter. All was*
one boundless scene of rushing dread. The expanded
prairie carpeted in deep green below; above, the dark
blue clouds, with their pendant folds, were ranged along,
one after another, (like the lower edges of curtains in the
theater's dome,) as you gazed toward the east, the nearest
being darkest, then an interval of hesitating light falling
between, then another cloud-sheet was swinging, and so on
in a series of some half a dozen, till at the farther end of
the arched- way greater light appeared, much as if you
looked for miles through a vast tunnel, with occasional
openings for light from above. While I was gazing, ab
sorbed, upon this already gorgeous spectacle, the fury of
the storm had abated, the black upper clouds were mostly
dispersed, and as a brighter sky poured its floods of light
into this magnificent amphitheater, its splendor and beauty
were hightened beyond all description, and presented a
panorama to the rapt beholder which unmistakably pro
claimed that only by the Almighty could it have been
swung out before the world : and presently the Author's
signature was dashed across it in the bright BOW which
clasped the whole.
THUNDER STORMS LAND MONOPOLY. 287
Not often can such scenes be witnessed ; a single view,
a moment's study, of such a master-piece would be worth
months of examination in the old artistic pantheons of
Italy, to the ingenious and enthusiastic votary of line and
color ; but my description is only a feeble picture of the
original scene.
The pitiless storm which raged in mercy over the frantic
head of Lear presented only the sable, frowning features
of a night-storm, while to that which overwhelmed the
prairie traveler were flung out all the glories of the day-
god's bright drapery and glittering sheen.
Though it lacked a few hours of night, when I experi
enced the above storm, still, in the following graphic de
scription, by Dr. R. W. GRISWOLD, of similar storms, I can
read the deep soul-poetry of such exhibitions of nature in
her mighty freedom :
" The summer sun has sunk to rest
Below the green-clad hills,
And through the skies, careering fast,
The storm-cloud rides upon the blast,
And now the rain distills !
The flash we see, the peal we hear,
Till pains the ear.
It is the voice of the Storm-King
Riding upon the lightning's wing,
Leading his bannered hosts across the darkened sky,
And drenching with his floods the sterile lands and dry.
"The wild beasts to their covers fly,
The night-birds flee from heaven,
The dense black clouds that veil the sky,
Darkening the vast expanse on high,
By streaming fires are riven.
Again the tempest's thunder tone,
The sounds from forests overthrown,
Like trumpets blown
Deep in the bosom of the storm,
Proclaim his presence in its form,
Who doth the scepter of the concave hold.
Who freed the winds, and the vast clouds unrolled."
Of the evils of Land-monopoly — the accumulation of
large, too large tracts of land in the ownership of a single
288 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
person or of a corporation — at the West, as elsewhere, I
have repeatedly spoken, and here again remark upon it.
I speak thus often of it, because, wherever we move, every
step we take, almost, we meet it ; we see its injurious
effects upon community ; it is not only detrimental to
communities and neighborhoods, but it is largely detri
mental to the best progress and prosperity of the Nation,
by retarding the settlement and population of the frontier
and exposed borders of the New States, and by hindering
useful and comfortable improvements among the few set
tlers in those locations — extensive and non-resident owners
neither laboring and improving themselves, nor selling the
large tracts at fair prices to those who would do it — such
as making roads, sustaining schools, churches, and town
operations.
There is a very just policy that might be pursued by
Congress, to abate this evil, and greatly subserve both the
the national and personal interests of the West, as well as
East.
Let the Government allow to every person wTho will go
on and improve — become an actual occupant — the free
right to 80 or 160 acres of the wild lands — give him, with
out price, a suitable quantity for a comfortable farm — and
at the same time prohibit any person from buying or pos
sessing any more than that amount ; or cease altogether
the traffic in public lands, and dispose of them only by
gift to actual settlers. By pursuing such a course, Gov-.
eminent would encourage the speedier filling up our
vast domain, now lying waste and useless, with an indus
trious and enterprising population of agriculturists and
mechanics, who would speedily make roads, farms, fill
schools and churches, bring up the treasures of the earth ;
and these, singly or combined, are a nation's greatest
wealth, and its surest protection.
Where a man's HOME is, there is his deepest interest —
HOME ITS INFLUENCE. 289
there his deepest treasure is — when he has a spot on terra
Jirma that is his own, and his home is located there, he at
once feels that he has more than a passing interest in the
peace and prosperity of the nation, that his welfare and
the welfare of the nation are identical ; and as he will
strive, endure, toil, every thing, for Home, so then would
he do the same for the country ; in defending the nation
he defends his home ; and what soldier- wages or camp-
pleasures can make a man risk, suffer, and combat to the
extent and with the devotion that his love of Home will ?
HOME ! four sweet letters ; what other word, in the
whole vocabulary of our language, expresses so much that
is lovely ; around what other little name do so many en
dearments, such sweet associations, cluster; what other
single short syllable embraces in its significance all that is
desirable in society or worth toiling for on earth? In its
full development are life, love, and joy ; and which are all
combined nowhere but in Home.
Then, if we would have a happy, holy, and loyal com
munity, let us establish and secure as many independent,
self home-owning citizens as possible in the nation — per
manent operators upon their own premises — and reduce as
far as we may the number of the birds of passage, who
to-day are here, but to-morrow are somewhere else. And
though worthy people oftentimes, unsettled persons can
not be relied upon to the full extent, by government or
society, in all emergencies, as can those who own perma
nent homes, and live upon them. Hence Government
will advance its greatest welfare by doing what it can to
induce the full settlement of Western lands.
In one of his letters from Europe, HORACE GREELEY
thus speaks of the love of country and home with the
American :
" But I must not linger. The order to embark is given ; our
good ship Baltic is ready; another hour, and I shall have left Eng-
25
290 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
land and this Continent, probably for ever. With a fervent good
bye to the friends I leave on this side of the Atlantic, I turn niy
steps gladly and proudly toward my own loved Western home —
toward the land wherein man enjoys larger opportunities than
elsewhere to develop the better and the worse aspects of his nature,
and where evil and good have a freer course, a wider arena for
their inevitable struggles, than is allowed them among the fetters
and cast-iron forms of this rigid and wrinkled Old World. Doubt
less those struggles will long be arduous and trying ; doubtless, the
dictates of duty will there often bear sternly away from the hal
cyon bowers of popularity ; doubtless, he who would be singly and
wholly right must there encounter ordeals as severe as those which
here try the souls of the would-be champions of progress and
liberty.
" But political freedom, such as white men enjoy in the United
States, and the mass do not enjoy in Europe, not even in Britain,
is a basis for confident and well-grounded hope ; the running
stream, though turbid, tends ever to self-purification; the ob
structed, stagnant pool grows daily more dank and loathsome.
Believing most firmly in the ultimate and perfect triumph of good
over evil, I rejoice in the existence and diffusion of that liberty
which, while it intensifies the contest, accelerates the consumma
tion. Neither blind to her errors nor a panderer to her vices, I re
joice to feel that every hour henceforth till I see her shores must
lessen the distance which divides me from my country, whose ad
vantages and blessings this four months' absence has taught me to
apprecate more clearly and to prize more deeply than before.
With a glow of unwonted rapture I see our stately vessel's prow
turned toward the setting sun, and strive to realize that only some
ten days separate me from those I know and love best on earth.
" Hark ! the last gun announces that the mail-boat has left us,
and that we are fairly afloat on our ocean journey ; the shores of
Europe recede from our vision ; the watery waste is all around us ;
and now, with God above and death below, our gallant bark and
her clustered company together brave the dangers of the mighty
deep. May Infinite Mercy watch over our onward path and bring
us safely to our several homes ; for to die away from home and
kindred seems one of the saddest calamities that could befall me.
This mortal tenement would rest uneasily in an ocean shroud;
this spirit reluctantly resign that tenement to the chill and pitiless
brine ; these eyes close regretfully on the stranger skies and bleak
inhospitalities of the sullen and stormy main. No ! let me see
FARMING AND IMPLEMENTS. 291
once more the scenes so well remembered and beloved ; let me
grasp, if but once again, the hand of friendship, and hear the
thrilling accents of proved affection, and when sooner or later the
hour of mortaf agony shall come, let my last gaze be fixed on eyes
that will not forget me when I am gone, and let my ashes repose in
that congenial soil which, however I may there be esteemed or
hated, is still
" 'My own green land forever.' "
In these Prairie regions the farming work is generally
done more expeditiously than in the East ; a larger pro
portion of it being performed by labor-saving machines in
the former than the latter locations.
The plowing, or breaking up prairie, is generally done
with from four to six yoke of oxen, or horse-team of equal
strength, drawing plows which turn a furrow of from 30
to 40 inches wide, and in some instances even wider;
plowing two, three, and sometimes four acres a day with
one plow. These, as well as the small plows, are made
of sheet steel, and polished on emery wheels, so that they
are light and slip through the soil very smoothly. Gener
ally, therefore, plowing is done in the West much more
expeditiously than at the East.
Corn is cultivated mostly with a cultivator, and very
little time is spent with the hoe, so that this branch of
work is done up rapidly.
Wheat and other fine grains are, to a considerable ex
tent, beginning to be put in with a drill, by which both
time and seed are saved, and greater certainty of crop se
cured. The drills mostly used and approved at the West,
are those invented by Piersons and by Gatling ; and there
are others, preferred by some farmers.
The grain is almost wholly cut by harvesting machines.
Those most in use are McCormick's, Hussey's, Danforth's,
Haine's, Cook's, Seymour and Morgan's, and some others.
It is said that Hussey's and McCormick's have proved to
be superior ; they were tested at the World's Fair.
292 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Mowing machines are also beginning to be much used
to cut the hay on the large prairie-meadows ; and they are
found to serve an admirable purpose. There are already
a number of these machines in the field that work well,
among which are Scoville's, Danforth's, McCormick's, and
others.
Then there are a great number of thrashers, some of
which thrash in the field, and others at the yard and in the
barn.
In cases where immigrants lack the necessary means
and help, within themselves, to make a full and easy com
mencement at the West, or to secure, on the start, the
privileges of society around their new homes, it would be
a judicious and convenient plan, for numbers of farmers,
mechanics, and others to join their forces and settle down
together, in some place well selected for health and natu
ral advantages, in the shape of a colony — with or without
all interests in common, as shall be most agreeable to all
concerned — where they may help one another, in the
heavier portions of their work, and "join teams to break
up," as one man, generally, cannot afford to own four to
six yokes of oxen, a team sufficient for the first plowing
the rich heavy prairies. Going in colonies or companies,
this way, not only renders business lighter, but furnishes
at once the pleasures of society, which are not enjoyed in
the early sparse settlements of a new country.
The following announcement in the New York Tribune,
last summer, is an instance of this manner of operation :
" A movement is being made in this city for the organization of
a company to form a new settlement on the public lands of the
West. The scheme is to take up a township of Government land,
six miles square, by means of a fund accumulated by individual
subscriptions. The number required will be about 100, each of
whom is to be allowed to subscribe for 160 acres, or less, and a
village lot of three or four acres. The period required to com-
COLONY UNION OF LABOR. 293
plete the organization of the company and the purchase of the
land will not probably extend beyond April or May next.
" The proportion of artizans required for each department of
industry to organize ' and commence the settlement of a single
township and village, is estimated to be nearly as follows :
" Agriculturists, 50 ; Bakers, 2 ; Barber, 1 ; Blacksmiths, 4 ;
Bookseller and Stationer, 1 ; Boot and Shoemakers, 6 ; Brick-
makers, 8 ; Bricklayers, 4 ; Butcher, 1 ; Cabinetmakers, 4 ;
Cooper, 1 ; Millers, 2 ; General Merchants, 2 ; Grocers, 2 ; Hard
ware and Tinshop, 1 ; House Carpenters and Joiners, 20 ; Lime-
burners, 2; Laborers, 10; Masons, 10; Printers (Newspaper), 2;
Painters, 2 ; Physician, 1 ; Saddle and Harnessmakers, 4 ; Sawmill
Hands, 8 ; Tailors, 4 ; Wagon and Carriagemakers, 8 ; all of whom
are supposed to be employers and journeymen."
Whether the proportion into which the various branches
of laborers are above distributed is correct, I am not pre
pared to say positively ; at least, the number of farmers
there set down is full small enough ; for the number of
mechanics stated could do more work in their lines than
that number of farmers would require ; but perhaps that
would be no objection, as mechanics could do some agri
cultural labor, as well for their health as profit ; and every
shopkeeper ought to own a piece of land, more or less, on
which he would find it pleasant to devote some portion of
his time.
Such companies should look out to have established
among them good liberal schools, and well supplied reading
rooms, where they might have access to books and papers,
during their leisure hours.
294 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
MISCELLANEOUS.
THE Exemption and Collection Laws of these three
Western States, are all very liberal ; and, in that respect,
are an advance upon the Eastern States ; still, men pay
their debts full as promptly in the former as the latter re
gion.
HOMESTEAD EXEMPTION. — In the State of Illinois, the
amount exempted from forced sale for debt is $1,000;
either a house and lot in town, or a farm and appurten
ances. In Wisconsin, the amount is a farm of 40 acres,
with buildings, etc. ; or a town lot of one-fourth acre, with
the buildings on it. In Iowa, a town lot or farm, not to
exceed in either case the value of $500. The exemption
is valid only while the debtor or family live on the prem
ises ; and an exception is made in favor of Mechanics'
liens, and of mortgages voluntarily signed.
PERSONAL PROPERTY EXEMPTION. — In Illinois, necessary
wearing apparel ; bedsteads and bedding for family ; ne
cessary stoves and cooking utensils; and $15 worth of
other furniture ; two sheep and fleeces, or equal amount
of wool purchased, to each member of family ; one cow
and calf; necessary food for family and stock for three
months ; working implements in the house ; and $60
worth of other property, suited to wants or wishes of
debtor; and the rights of burial, etc. In Wisconsin,
books, pictures, and rights of burial ; all necessary wear
ing apparel, with household furniture worth $200 ; two
cows ; ten swine ; span of horses, or one horse and yoke
of oxen ; ten sheep and wool from same, in fleece or fab
rics ; food for family and stock one year ; wagon or cart
VOTERS CHURCHES AND COLLEGES. 295
and sleigh ; plow, drag, and other tackle for team of $50
worth. In Iowa, Bible, school books, and library of $100
value ; one cow and calf; one horse, or yoke of oxen ;
twelve sheep and their wool, in fleece or fabrics; five
swine ; the flax in the possession of the family, or the
fabrics made from it ; necessary beds and bedding ; one
hundred yards of cloth made up by the family ; all spin
ning wheels and looms kept for use; stove and pipe, with
other furniture to amount of $50 ; mechanics' tools neces
sary for use; and the necessary books and instruments
for lawyers and doctors to practice their professions. In
the case of claim of Mechanics' liens, suits must be pros
ecuted within six months in Illinois, and within one year
in Wisconsin and Iowa.
QUALIFICATIONS OF VOTERS. — In Illinois, all white male
citizens, of the age of 21 years, who have resided in the
State six months next preceding the election. In Wis
consin, all white male citizens, 21 years of age, who have
resided in the State one year next preceding the election.
In Iowa, all white male citizens, of the age of 21 years,
who have resided in the State one year, and 20 days in
the county next preceding the election.
RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES. — Most of the ordinary religious
denominations are thoroughly established in these States ;
and nearly all of them have flourishing Colleges in differ
ent locations. And such institutions are as generally at
tended to and liberally sustained, in proportion to popula
tion and ability, in the West as at the East.
I cannot say which sect is most numerous ; but the Pres
byterians, Baptists, Methodists, Episcopalians, Catholics,
and Universalists all have churches in most of the towns
and settlements. There are also flourishing societies of the
New Jerusalem Church or Swedenborgians, in Chicago,
Peoria, and some other towns. There also some Quakers
and Friends in some of the towns ; and in many of the
296 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
cities and towns Jews and Mormons are to be found. ' In
Illinois, the Rev. Dr. WHITEHOUSE, of New York, has re
cently been appointed Bishop over the Episcopal churches.
And here I will repeat the suggestion to Emigrants,
that it is eminently desirable that they should all, when
ever able to do so, take into the New States all the im
proved stock, good seeds, and scions for fruit, and shrub
bery and grove trees ; and this, too, in preference to taking
much furniture or tools and farming implements ; as all
of those can be obtained of the best quality and at cheap
rates in the Western cities and villages.
Good breeds of cattle, horses, sheep, hogs, and poultry,
with choice fruits are much needed, and in lively demand.
THE WEST JOHN E. WHEELER. 297
THE HIGHER ASPECTS AND PROMISES OF
THE WEST.
As an interesting ornament to the more plain and sta
tistical aspects of my rustic picture, I here insert an elegant
sketch from the pen of my early and esteemed friend, JOHN
E. WHEELER, Esq., one of the purest and ablest writers of
the West ; his philosophy is pure and elevated, and his re
ligion humane and spiritual. For years the leading Editor
of the Gem of the Prairie, and the Chicago Daily Tribune,
his spirit's genius raised those papers to an elevation of
usefulness and popularity unsurpassed, if riot unequaled, by
any other journal west of the Lakes.
He has alluded to the West, in her characteristics of
inspiration to Human Improvement and upon the Artist.
Surely, no portion of our Continent — of any continent — is
richer in natural scenes, to challenge the enthusiastic efforts
of the pen, pencil, and chisel, than that portion drained by
the Mississippi from St. Anthony's to St. Louis, bordered
on the east by the majestic Lakes, and on the west by the
boundless Missouri plains. Here the aspiring Artist, of
whatever branch, may find glowing and splendid originals,
from which to make more living copies than can be obtained
from the master-pieces in ancient and rusty pantheons of
the Old World ; where the early masters excelled, in their
times and sphere. But there is no good reason why Art
should not progress and mount up to greater excellence,
on a newer, wider soil — in a more propitious, freer clime
— as has Science, and Government, and Religion : have
not all these improved, to a higher and more glorious
standard, in the New World ? And why should the Painter
298 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
or Sculptor still bend in an agony of ambition to simply
copy the excellence of Europe's faded masters 1 Indeed,
EXCELSIOR has seized America's poet-pen ; let it also fea
ther her chisel and pencil for higher flights.
The free, fresh, and boundless spirit and face of the West,
should be courted to dictate a style and inspire a taste
above and beyond the samples of earlier and ruder ages ;
then will our Artists, as do our Politicians, surpass their
predecessors. In this connection Mr. Wheeler furnishes
the following, at my request :
" We remember, some year or two since, to have read
a discourse, by Rev. Dr. BUSHNELL, the subject of which
was, in substance, ' The Barbarian Tendencies of Society
at the West ;' and on this view of the subject the reverend
gentleman predicated an appeal to Christianity and Benev
olence to-put forth the necessary efforts to save this Gar
den of the Union from a relapse into barbarism. This
tendency, he supposed, grew out of the disruption of so
cial, religious, and political ties in the case of those seeking
homes in the West — the jarring and heterogeneous char
acter of the social elements, drawn as they are from all
quarters of the world — and the unbridled license result
ing from the well known disregard, in new commu
nities, of the various restraints by which men are moulded
and held in check in the older States.
"After our first surprise was over at the idea of a ten
dency to 'barbarism' in any portion of our country, espe
cially the great and glorious West, we were, on second
thought, obliged to confess that there was a sort of half
truth in it. We know, from a study of the whole course
of human history, that no real progress in the elevation
and refinement of the race can be made while it is migra
tory or nomadic. Man, like a tree, must plant the roots
of his institutions deep in the soil, before they can lift
themselves in beauty and majesty toward heaven. And,
THE WEST JOHN E. WHEELER. 299
of course, all disordered states of society, just in the degree
they approach the migratory character, are unfavorable to
advancement in any direction.
" We understand, from long-continued observation, the
evils incident to the unsettled character of society at the
West ; and we are also aware, from the same course of
observation, that Dr. Bushnell took a one-sided and very
partial view of the subject. The evils which he enume
rates are, in the very nature of things, temporary ; while
the vast good which is to grow out of the fusion of races
upon the great theater of the Mississippi Valley, is in
calculable. Consider the character of immigrants who
have settled in, and are still crowding in an unbroken hu
man tide to that magnificent region ; surely they are many
removes from 'barbarism,' and we see no reason why a
mere change of location should transform them from civil
ized to barbarous men. The predominant element is, of
course, the Anglo-Saxon, and, to a large extent, of the Pu
ritan stock — the most orderly, self-governing race in exist
ence. They are not the broken down, inefficient members
of the communities from which they come ; but, as a
general thing, the most intelligent and energetic among
them. They carry within themselves, wherever they go,
all of the elements of an orderly, well-governed State, and
of polished communities. It is true that multitudes of
foreigners, less favorably developed, constitute a large por
tion of the people of the West ; but the intelligent and the
cultivated are sufficiently numerous to give a tone to pub
lic sentiment and manners, and a right direction to public
affairs.
"Throughout Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa, of which
this volume principally treats, whole neighborhoods, and
even clusters of counties, are found which exhibit all the
intelligence and refinement of any portion of the Eastern
States. They are foremost in all works tending toward
300 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
material progress ; religion is honored, and its institutions
liberally sustained ; and a special zeal is manifested in the
advancement of general education ; and in matters of taste
— an appreciation of those little refinements that add a
charm to social intercourse, and throw a grace around the
externals of life — they might, in frequent instances, serve
as models to those who have always lived in the midst of
such associations.
"The reverend gentleman to whom we have referred,
while he has seen and pointed out some of the evils inse
parable from the unsettled state of society at the West,
has, it seems to us, strangely overlooked one of its strik
ingly hopeful phases — we mean the almost absolute free
dom of mind which is there enjoyed. There is in this a
good, calculable by no ordinary mode of computa
tion.
" Freedom is indispensable to the development of human
character, whether in the individual man or in the more
complex man composed of a community or a state. If
we would put ourselves in a position favorable to the
attainment of some great good, we must, by a law of eter
nal necessity, at the same time subject ourselves to the
liability of falling into its opposite evil. Between these
two opposing powers is the only proper theater of whole
some discipline. Never were a people placed in so favor
able a position, in this respect, as those of the West. The
danger which they incur is only temporary, while the good
which is to result from the struggle will be as enduring as
the soul itself.
"Freedom, as we have said, is absolutely essential,
whatever risks may be incurred by its exercise. Without
it a community must be either stationary, if that be possi
ble, or in a state of retrogradation. With it, we see what
has been and is to be achieved by the people of the West.
Their energies and aspirations seem to be expanding into
HIGHER ASPECTS OF THE WEST. 301
correspondence with the noble features of the country
which they inhabit. Nowhere else do we see such simul-
taneousness of conception and execution. Without irrev
erence, it may almost be said, they speak, and it is done.
Nowhere else is there such an arena for the free exer
cise of Thought in canvassing all questions — nowhere else
such complete toleration of the most variant forms of opin
ion. And, we may confidently add, that -nowhere else in
this great confederacy of States, is there such hope for the
future in respect to all that can dignify and elevate the
race. In the broad valley of the Father of Waters this
young but great Republic can stretch its free limbs, and
give as full and beneficent play to its heart and intellect as
is now enjoyed by the winds which career over its broad roll
ing plains, and the majestic streams which course as the life-
blood of the land for thousands of miles through its bo
som.
" The vast material resources of this region are treated
of at large in preceding pages. These are necessary as
the foundation of a true social edifice, and no other portion
of the world presents them in so great profusion. We
have seen also that they are being developed and applied
to the noblest uses on the most magnificent scale. Young
as society is there at present, in the more thickly set
tled portions of the country it will compare favorably with
the better aspects of society in the oldest and most flour
ishing States. What, then, may we not predict for the
future ? We feel confident that society in the West, just
so soon as the material tbasis shall be sufficiently con
solidated, will flower into such beautiful and harmonious
proportions as the world never witnessed before. Intelli
gence will be as widely diffused as the sunlight. The rather
free manners which now prevail will be softened by time
and culture to a noble, graceful courtesy, and the whole
community be brought up to the standard which we now
802 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
see exhibited here and there in individuals. Religion,
purified from sectarian narrowness by the tolerant strife
of manifold opinion, will, by its attractiveness and power,
win all hearts but those of the hopelessly incorrigible.
Need we say that, when all this shall come to pass, Art
will here find its chosen home, as the highest expression
of all that is beautiful and harmonious in the heart and
mind of the people ? Will not numerous shrines then be
reared to the Beautiful — that heavenly vesture which
hovers over and sanctifies all noble uses — and the pen of
the Poet, the pencil of the Painter, and the chisel of the
Sculptor, vie with each other in ' bodying forth' her high
est ideals, as vouchsafed to the most harmonious souls ?
We believe so. All will come in good time. The politi
cal empire of the West over this Union will ere long be
undoubted and universally acknowledged. It is consoling
to think that its sway will be as beneficent as the vastness
of its power and manifold wealth for all the uses of man."
NAMES OF STATES. — Most of the States are known by
other appellatives than the incorporate ones ; as the " Em
pire State," the " Key-stone State," the " Buck-eye State,"
etc. The more Western States also have their provincial
sobriquets ; Michigan is the " Wolvarine State," from its
great number of small mischievous prairie wolves ; the In-
dianians are called " Hooshers," from a little incident which
occurred with some of the earlier settlers, and is, in fact, a
contraction of the phrase, " Who is here ?" Wisconsin is
called the «' Badger State," from the numbers of that little
animal found there, and seldom seen in other parts of the
Mississippi country. Iowa is called the " Hawk-eye State,"
from the great number of hawks and buzzards formerly
found in that region, as some say ; while others contend,
an illustrious Indian chief of that name wTas once a terror
to voyageurs to its borders. The Illinoians are called
" Suckers," from the customs of the early settlers, who
ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 808
were in the habit, in spring-time, of going up to the mines
to labor ; and in the fall, at the approach of Jack Frost,
returning to the warmer south ; thus, running up in the
spring, and down in the fall, which is the natural habit of
the fish known as suckers. Illinois is also called the " Prai
rie State," from its immense superior prairies. The Mis-
sourians are called " Pukes," from the great amount of
sickness which used to be suffered on its rivers.
ROUTES OF TRAVEL. — For the information and conve
nience of travelers and emigrants, I give the following de
scription of some of the principal mediums of conveyance,
from the Atlantic seaboard, for reaching the Great Lakes
and the Mississippi ; and cross routes to the Ohio and the
Missouri rivers. I am not able to give all of the lines of
travel ; but have given those most traveled and the most
popular.
From New York, Boston, and other Atlantic towns,
Passengers and Freight are conveyed to Buffalo and Dun
kirk by various lines of Railroads, Riverboats, and Canals ;
the New York and Erie, and the Hudson River, and Alba
ny and Buffalo Railroads, being the principal and favorite
routes.
From Buffalo and Dunkirk regular lines of first class
Steamers run daily to Cleveland, fare $1 to $3 ; to Monroe,
Toledo, and Detroit, fare $2 to $4 ; to places on St. Clair
lake and river, and to Mackinaw, fare $5 to $7 ; and to
all ports on the Western Shore of Lake Michigan, fare $4
to $8. Time of running from Monroe, Toledo, and De
troit, 'one to two days; to Mackinaw, three to four days;
and to Milwaukee and Chicago, four to six days.
From Chicago and other ports along Lake Michigan,
boats leave weekly for Green Bay. From Mackinaw and
Saut Ste. Marie's a boat leaves every week for different
ports on Lake Superior, to the copper and lead regions,
and fur trading posts.
304 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
From Detroit, Monroe, and Toledo, daily trains of
Railroad cars leave for the head of Lake Michigan, near
Chicago, whence boats or stages convey passengers to that
city, and other places on the Lake, and into Illinois, Indiana,
Wisconsin, and Iowa.
From Sandusky, on Lake Erie, the conveyance to Cin
cinnati is by Railroad; distance, 218 miles; time, 12 to
16 hours; fare, $6.50 and less in second class cars.
From Manhattan and Toledo to Evansville, on the Ohio
river, by Canal, 467 miles.
From Cleveland to Cincinnati the conveyance is by Rail
road, via Columbus ; distance, about 255 miles ; fare, $7.50 ;
second class, less. There is also a Canal between these
places.
From Erie, the conveyance to the Ohio, at Beaver, is
by Canal ; distance about 140 miles ; then a short distance
by Steamboat up the river to Pittsburg.
From Philadelphia and Baltimore, to Pittsburg and
Wheeling, by different routes — Railroads, Steamboats, and
Coaches on National road — varying in distance, from 390
to upward of 400 miles ; time, 36 to 40 hours ; fare, $10
and $11. Also, a route by Railroad and Canal, about 390
miles ; time, 3 to 5 days ; best for transportation of emi
grants and goods, as it is much cheaper.
From Pittsburg down the Ohio to Mississippi river are
several lines of Steamboats. To New Orleans, distance,
2,000 miles; time, 12 days; fare, $12. To St. Louis,
distance, 1,200 miles; time, 4 to 6 days; fare, $8 to $10.
To Cairo, distance about 1,000 miles; time, 3 to 5 days;
fare, $6 to $8. To Cincinnati, distance about 500 miles ;
time, 2 to 4 days ; fare, $4 to $6. To Portsmouth, dis
tance, 370 miles ; fare, $3 to $4. To Wheeling, distance
100 miles ; fare, $1 50.
From Cincinnati to Madison, 90 miles ; fare, $1 50. To
Louisville, about 150 miles; fare, $1 50 to $2. From
ROUTES DISTANCES. 305
Madison to Indianapolis, by Railroad, 86 miles; fare,
$2 50.
The conveyances carry passengers from New York to
Chicago and Milwaukee, at prices varying from $14 to
$20.
The two Railroads from .Lake Erie to Chicago are, the
"Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana Railroad,"
leaving Lake Erie at both Toledo and Monroe, running
through southern Michigan and northern Indiana to Chi
cago, 246 miles ; and the " Michigan Central Railroad,"
leaving the Lake at Detroit, and running through central
Michigan to Chicago, 280 miles.
Over all the principal thoroughfares of the Western
States, FRINK, WALKER, & Co., run daily lines of Stages,
leading from the chief towns and cities on the Lakes and
Rivers. And on the cross routes and roads, leading to
smaller towns and newer settlements, they run semi-
weekly and weekly lines.
306 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
MR. THOMPSON'S LETTERS.
THE following are extracts of letters, written in June
and July last ; in copying from these letters I have omit
ted what was not of general interest :
" Before leaving CHICAGO, I must say a word of its present as
pect. The changes wrought there within a few years are more
marked than in any other place that I have yet revisited. New
hotels of the largest class, and kept in the best manner, new docks,
new pavements, long rows of stores substantially built and wear
ing a showy front, bear witness to a rapid growth and an increas
ing business. Standing at the head of Lake Navigation, and con
nected by Canal with navigable waters to the Gulf of Mexico, it
must rapidly increase in wealth and trade ; and when the pro
jected lines of Railroads and Plankroads are completed, it must
become the Commercial center of the Northwest. The business
men of the city are mostly young and enterprising Yankees, who
are determined here to carve out a fortune for themselves. There
is also at Chicago some admixture of the southern element, to
gether with a fair quota of foreign characteristics ; but eastern
emigration has mainly given character to the place.
*' Churches and church edifices have shared in the generous spirit
of improvement. Six years ago I found the First Presbyterian
Church worshiping in a sort of deserted warehouse which had been
tinkered up in various ways to answer that purpose. The Second
Church, at that time, occupied a small frame building facing the
public square. Now, the First Church, under the pastoral care
of Rev. Mr. CURTIS, have erected a commodious and substantial
edifice of brick fronting the square.
" The Second Church have exchanged their wooden box for a
massive and elegant building of stone, of Gothic architecture,
with stained windows and a semi-cathedral air. The material
of this building was brought from a quarry south of the city on
the line of the Canal, and affords an interesting study to the geol
ogist. Its aspect is peculiar on account of the oozing of bitumen
through the pores of the stone, which, blending with the limestone
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 307
and the silex, gives a variety of colors from the lightest gray to
the deepest black ; it is said to become hardened by exposure.
The building is about 120 feet in length by 80 in breadth, but
some thirty feet of the length are included in a lecture-room, Sab
bath-school rooms, etc. The audience-room will accommodate
about 1,200 persons. The entire cost of the building and ground
was a little more than $ 40,000."
This rock is called by the people of that region, " Tar
Granite," and is procured in large quantities near the city,
of the finest quality.
" A Congregational church has recently been formed in Chicago,
on the west side of the river, in part by a secession from the
Third Presbyterian Church, provoked by the arbitrary proceed
ings of the Presbytery toward that church, while those proceed
ings in turn were called forth by the extreme action of the church
on the subject of slavery. I regret that I had no opportunity to
confer with the brethren immediately concerned in this movement,
but was obliged to get all my information either at second-hand,
or from sources liable to prejudice. A strong movement for a
Congregational church upon the proper basis, while it might be
resolutely opposed, could not fail to attract to itself some import
ant influences at Chicago, and to become a center of influence for
a wide region. There is an element in the place and in the region
that demands such an organization, and that would develop itself
powerfully under the proper man. But the movement should not
be controversial or sectarian, and much less should it be simply
or mainly reformatory in the humanitarian sense. It is to be
hoped that Congregationalists will labor earnestly and practically
through the individual pulpit, through a free press, through the
ballot-box as citizens ; and above all, through the power of per
sonal holiness, giving weight and force to every effort at reform.
Perhaps the movement at Chicago, though occasioned by unpropi-
tious circumstances, may result in a permanent organization,
such as I have characterized; a church formed not upon some ab
stract proposition in morals, but upon the broad, free principles of
the Gospel, and animated more with the kindly spirit of Christ
than with a zeal for specific reforms. Its power in such reforms
will depend not upon the stringency of its resolves, but upon the
depth and earnestness of its piety. I hope it will not be a mere
family quarrel. In saying these things I speak not so much with
308 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
personal references as from general principles, knowing that with
regard to this new church I am much in the dark.
" Chicago, with all its improvements, its activity, and its wealth,
can never vie with Cleveland as a place of residence. It is situ
ated on a dead level, where water does not know which way to
run. Its broad streets are almost wholly destitute of trees. Its
soil is miry beyond endurance, though a system of drainage lately
introduced has rendered a three foot cellar a practicable thing.
The surrounding country is a vast prairie, now under good culti
vation, but too uniform to please the eye. A few miles out of
town is what is called by a figure of speech a Summit, where the
waters divide for the lakes and the Mississippi ; this way seeking
the Atlantic by the river St. Lawrence, and that way by the Gulf
of Mexico ; flowing like the benevolent impulses of the heart to
embrace a continent, and to mingle in the warm gulf stream of an
ever-circling beneficence. Yet uninviting as Chicago is, to the
tourist, and with few exceptions to the resident, it is and will be
a place of business, the thoroughfare of emigration, the entrepot
of western commerce. This will make it wealthy, prosperous,
and great."
Mr. T. must have been rather limited in his examina
tion, not to have seen the large number of streets with
their two sides shaded with rows of fine trees on both
sides of the river.
Mr. Thompson was greatly annoyed by the failure of
conveyances to perform their trips, as advertised; but,
from my own experience of several years in the West, I
can say that punctuality is their general rule, and that
these delays are only the exceptions, and are deserving of
the censure here applied ; especially on the Canal and Il
linois river general promptitude is observed : but here is
Mr. T.'s own narrative :
" I observe that Dr. Bacon in his letter from Lyons, which I
have just read, says that in his calculations of distances he did
not make ' sufficient allowance for the uncertainties of French
lines of conveyance,' and accordingly was disappointed in his
plans. If Mr. Pilatte should visit the West, he might reciprocate
the compliment as to the uncertainties of American lines of con-
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 309
veyance, for it would puzzle the shrewdest Yankee to make any
calculations based upon the advertisements of Steamboats on these
Western waters. For a boat to lie at her wharf hours after the
time set for starting, and by innumerable stops to prolong her
trip a day or two beyond the promised time, is an event of common
occurrence. Western people take it as a matter of course, and it
is impossible to get vexed at such a delay — if it were even worth
while to get vexed at any thing — when every body about you is as
unconcerned and phlegmatic as if time had not been divided into
periods of six working days, each of which has its appropriate
duties. Indeed time does not yet seem to enter as an element into
Western thought. It answers about as well to do a thing next
week as this ; "to wait a day or two for a boat, as to meet it at the
hour appointed ; and so on through all the details of life.
" This is a great country, and it is a great ways to any where,
and there is no use of being in a hurry. The very magnitude of
the distances to be overcome, instead of exciting to diligence,
punctuality, and speed, rather begets a loaferish habit, which be
comes a characteristic of society. But the increase of population,
the demands of commerce, and especially the construction of rail
roads, will soon correct this habit, and restore the pendulum to its
proper place in the affairs of men.
" I observe that some of the St. Louis papers are ridiculing the
idea of a pendulum for rendering visible the rotation of the earth.
I cannot but think, however, that any contrivance that should make
the earth's motion a palpable fact to the Western mind, would
have a salutary moral eifect upon the people of ' this country.'
The immensity of these western prairies, the sluggishness of many
western rivers, and the absence of all tidal influences, tend greatly
against any practical belief of the Copernican system. In fact
you can see on the same plain just where the sun rises and where
he sets, while the great prairie lies still with its quiet bosom up
heaved to receive his beams. If any philosopher in mechanism
could set the prairies whirling before the astonished natives, things
would jog on here a little faster. Not that I would have life al
ways busy, always hurried — I am too thankful for a temporary
relief for that— but the habit of punctuality and regularity is
very desirable even in the earliest stages of society. I find it hard
to shake off my Eastern system for the laxity of the West. But I
fear you will think I have already done this, if I prolong this dis
sertation on time instead of setting out upon my travels.
" The immediate occasion of these thoughts (alas how have such
310 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
occasions since multiplied !) was the derangement of my whole plan
at Chicago. Reaching that place at an early hour on Friday
morning, I said to myself, ' Less than 300 miles to Jacksonville,
by canal, steamboat, and railroad, we shall surely finish that by
Saturday night.' So off I posted to the packet office to take pas
sage for the 8 o'clock line ' through in 20 hours,' which would
leave only 160 miles by steamboat, with a whole day before us.
But, behold, the steamboat does not connect with the morning line
of packets, and it is just as well to remain at Chicago till evening.
So the idea of reaching Jacksonville for the Sabbath is abandoned.
However, by taking the evening packet at 5 o'clock, ' through in
20 hours,' we shall reach La Salle, the head of steamboat naviga
tion on the Illinois, by 1 p. M., on Saturday ; then as Peoria is but
60 miles down the river, a steamboat going with the current will
surely carry us there by early evening, so that we can pass the
Sabbath with dear old New England friends, and in the midst of
Sabbath-schools and churches. Not quite so fast ; but we will
take our journey in regular order. At 5 o'clock we are on board
the packet, but the steam-tug which is to take us up the Chicago
river to the first canal lock, has been detained, and it is almost 7
before we are fairly under way ; but never mind, ' 20 hours' will
allow some margin, and we shall have time enough.
** This Canal, by-the-way, as originally projected, was intended
to be a ship canal, uniting Lake Michigan with the Illinois river,
and so with the Mississippi. It was partly constructed with refer
ence to that idea, and had the plan been carried out, the whole
lockage would have been downward from Chicago, carrying the
water of the lake into the river, and thus keeping the channel of
the Illinois always full. This would have given immense facilities
for trade, and would have brought to Chicago, and via Chicago for
New York, much of the produce of the interior, which now goes down
the Mississippi and up the Ohio, or by way of New Orleans and the
Gulf. Steamboating without transhipment from St. Louis to Chicago,
would contribute greatly to the trade of both cities. But the failure
of all the gigantic plans of Internal Improvement in Illinois, and
the heavy incumbrance of State debt, led to the completing of this
as a Canal of ordinary width and depth, under the management
of three Trustees who act in behalf of the stockholders and of
the State. The work is well constructed, and the business is begin
ning to pay a good interest on the capital invested.
" The packet boats are regulated with a due regard to neatness
and comfort, and excepting the inconvenience of being suspended,
311
by lot, for the night somewhere in a double tier of hammocks,
swung up three deep, and the still greater inconvenience of having
no fit place for the morning's ablutions, a day upon one of them
can be very well endured. The Railroad, however, now fast pro
gressing, will soon draw off all mere business and pleasure travel,
and leave the canal to the transportation of freight and emigrants.
Nothing so strikingly illustrates the progress of our country as
the facility with which one great internal improvement is set aside
for another that offers better facilities for travel. The canal upon
which millions have been expended gives place to the railroad at a
cost of yet other millions ; the - tow-path makes way for the iron
track. What comes next ? Let flying machines be invented, that
shall combine certainty and safety of transportation with a greatly
increased speed, and the rails of many a road will be left to rust
in the ground.
"Canal traveling gives good opportunities for the study of
character and for usefulness to one's fellow-passengers. What
with books, pen and paper, conversation and discussions, the even
ing and the subsequent day were whiled away very pleasantly. I
was gratified with the general regard for propriety and morality
which was shown by travelers brought into such close contact.
There was little swearing and little drinking ; and whoever in
dulged in any sort of intoxicating beverage, felt called upon to
apologize for the act, by saying to his neighbors, that the water of
the country did not agree with him, and that he took ale or brandy
as a preventive of cholera. How essentially have the habits of
society in this particular been changed by the temperance reform
ation ! A stranger drinking liquors at a public table is apt to find
himself alone, and to feel obliged to plead some special excuse.
Much, however, remains to be done."
Here Mr. T. narrates a series of conversations, usual on
a long tour in a boat's cabin, upon various topics, as Re
forms, Religion, and Politics.
" A long digression this ! yes ; and a long jaunt we have had,
twenty-three hours, but here we are at La Salle.
" It was now about five p. M., and as the probability was that
the steamboat would not reach Peoria, some sixty miles distant,
till the dawn of the Sabbath, we went on shore and rested the
seventh day according to the commandment. It was curious to no
tice how our decision to remain affected the minds of our passen-
312 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
gers. Some, I think, were influenced by it to do the same ; and
others, to whom it seemed a novelty, evidently respected our feel
ings and course in the matter. It led to some interesting conver
sation about the Sabbath, and I aimed to give the impression that
Christians do not keep the day from constraint, from mere scruples
of conscience, or in a legal spirit, but from a hearty interest in the
great object of the institution, and for the benefit it brings to
themselves and others. I am thus particular on this point, because
I see that Sabbath-breaking is the almost universal habit of trav
elers ; and at the West the temptations to this are very strong.
This I felt. I might have made a plausible argument for trespass
ing a little upon holy time. La Salle was represented to us as a
cheerless place, without a church and without society. My in
valid companion needed the comforts of a good home, such as
would be found with friends at Peoria, and we should reach that
place perhaps by day-break. By staying at La Salle we might be
detained two days. But I would not feel justified in leaving Al
bany or Stonington on Saturday evening to reach New York at
day-break on the Sabbath ; and what is not right at the East is not
right at the West. To be sure, to keep the Sabbath when traveling
at the West costs money, and time, and comfort, and requires that
one should be singular. But have we not learned to obey God im
plicitly, and to the full, and leave the results with Him ? If we
have not learned this, we know nothing of the obedience of His
children.
" Now came a series of agreeable disappointments. First, we
found at La Salle an excellent hotel. The cordial welcome given
us by the host and ladies of the house, made us feel quite at home.
As soon as my calling was surmised, a claim was put in for preach
ing on the Sabbath. I sallied forth into the town to see what ar
rangements could be made for hearing or preaching the Gospel.
And here occurred my next surprise. I found I was not in a
heathen country, as it had been represented. To be sure, I saw
evidence enough of the presence of evil ; for in a walk of ten
minutes I counted as many groggeries, a billiard saloon, and other
appurtenances of vice. But on inquiring at one or two stores, I
ascertained that there were Christians in the place ; that a house
of worship was then erecting for a Congregational Church about
to be organized, and that a Baptist brother was transiently preach
ing to the people.
" A greater surprise, however, awaited me on returning to sup
per ; for who should seat themselves at the table, by my side, but
313
Rev. Dr. Blagden, of Boston, President Wheeler, of Burlington,
Vt., a brother to Dr. B., and a worthy Presbyterian elder from
Mississippi, all on their way from St. Louis to Chicago. This gave
fine promise for Christian society and the means of grace. It was
presently ascertained that Rev. Dr. Hough, formerly Professor at
Middlebury College, resided in the place with a son who is Canal
Collector, and through him arrangements were made for the mor
row's services.
"For the accommodation of the Irish population, there is a
Catholic church at this point, and a Cathedral of considerable di
mensions is nearly completed, on one of the best sites in the town.
This building will answer the uses of both La Salle and Peru, two
miles below, and as a number of laborers will soon be employed
here on the line of the Central Bailroad, it is likely to be well filled
for a time. But I doubt whether so large a permanent investment
at a point where the Irish population must be somewhat transient,
is good policy for the Catholics.
' ' Our Sabbath at La Salle proved to be a most pleasant one.
In the morning we assembled for social worship in a parlor of the
hotel ; thence we went to the house of God in company ; there Dr.
Wheeler preached in the morning, Dr. Blagden in the afternoon,
and your Correspondent in the evening ; and the day was closed
with social worship at the hotel.
" ' An' is it engineers yees are ?' said Patrick, as we walked out
to survey the line of the railroad near La Salle ; ' sure its ourselves
would like the work ; wees very poor here.' ' No, Patrick, we're
not engineers, but we hope you'll get the work and have the road
done before we come this way again.' ' I thought the gintlemen
looked like engineers.' " T.
" In leaving La Salle, I must not omit to mention a terrific storm
of wind, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and rain, which
passed over us there on Saturday evening. Never before did I
realize the wild grandeur of the elements when let loose for their
Titan sports, The wide reach of prairie around us gave to the
wind a sweep and a power that the steadfast piles of brick in the
great city entirely forbid. It seemed to gather force from its free
dom, and to accumulate strength in proportion to the area that it
traversed. The house shook to its foundations, and to our inexpe
rienced ears each new blast, as it came howling over the prairie-
sea, forboded its overthrow. And then the thunder ! I have heard
the thunder roll along the narrow gorges of the mountains, rever-
27
314 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
berating with a thousand echoes as it shook the everlasting hills ;
I have stood on the bare and ragged summit of Mount Washington,
as the flaming bolts dashed against the rocks at my feet, while the
monarch of the hills was wrapped in clouds that poured upon his
head hailstones and coals of fire ; but never did my soul quiver
with awe as on that night when earth and sky were commingled in
one sheet of flame, and the thunder leaped through the vast un
broken expanse of ether. No echo was there, no artificial multi
plier of sound, but sound itself, as if the hemisphere were a
mighty bell of harshest metal, within whose circumference we
were inclosed, while ponderous bolts were hurled against it till
the din and roar of ten thousand gongs clanging louder and
hoarser was concentrated upon our ears. ' Then the earth shook
and trembled,' for Jehovah ' bowed the heavens and came down.'
"The poet has described the effect of a night- storm among the
mountains of Switzerland :
" ' The sky is changed ! and such a change ! O Night,
And Storm, and Durkness, ye are wondrous strong,
Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light
Of a dark eye in woman ! ^ar along, ,
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,
Leaps the live thunder ! not from one lone cloud,
But every mountain now hath found a tongue ;
And Jura answers, through her misty shroud,
Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud !
" ' And this is in the night — most glorious night !
Thou wast not sent for slumber [ let me be
A sharer in thy fierce and far delight —
A portion of the tempest and of thee !
How the lit lake shines — a phosphoric sea —
And the big rain comes dancing to the earth !
And now again 'tis black — and now, the glee
Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain mirth
As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth.
*' This description was more than realized in that the majestic
tread of the thunder across the plain, far surpassed its quick
leaping among the mountains. No hill, no forest, no city broke
its sound, but it poured down from heaven to earth, and resounded
from earth to heaven, till it swelled into a continuous roar, aug
mented by successive peals that seemed never to die away.
Now, far as the eye could reach the prairie shone like a ' phosphoric
sea;' again it lay enwrapped in an impenetrable gloom. Our
thoughts were not the transcendental sentimentalism of the poet ;
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 315
our wishes were not for a soul-absorption into Nature, but we
thought of Him who, amid these terrific displays of .His power,
guards the sparrow nestling with its young, and numbers the hairs
of our heads. The Lord was nigh in His awful majesty, yet were
we not afraid ! Though the wind blew and the floods came, the
house that shook above our heads fell not, for it was founded upon
a rock. Be thou my soul established on the Rock of Ages, when
the floods of divine wrath shall be poured out upon the ungodly,
and —
" « Thunder and darkness, fire and storm,
Lead on the dreadful DAY.' "
The River Floods, an event of great sublimity, and
characteristic of the West, occurring annually, are here
forcibly described. Memorable and destructive floods oc
curred on the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, in 1832 and
1846:
** Observing some warehouses surrounded with water, from
which boats were taking in their freight, we concluded that the
owners had hit upon this expedient for the convenience of those
engaged in transportation ; but we were presently informed that
in ordinary stages of the water these warehouses stood high and
dry upon the levee, and that what seemed to be the bed of a wide,
flowing river, was usually a t bottom' — the name given to a low
tract of land, meadow or timbered, on the margin of a river, and
intervening between its channel and the bluffs or high grounds de
noting its ancient bed. Some of these warehouses were surrounded
with water to the depth of ten or twelve feet. Indeed I was as
sured that at one time the water rose fourteen feet in twenty-four
hours, and some 3,000 sacks of grain, stored in a new warehouse
built quite above the old high-water mark, were destroyed in a
single night.
" As we proceeded down the river we saw on every hand the
desolations of the flood. In nearly every river-town the street
fronting the river was overflowed, and stores and dwellings were
submerged to the depth of ten or twenty feet. In some places
large and cultivated farms were entirely under water ; the stock,
crops, fences, every thing destroyed. The loss falls most severely
on the poor woodmen, who occupy log-cabins on the river bot
toms, and earn their living by supplying the boats with wood ; the
whole winter's work of many has been swept away in an hour,
316 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
•while they and their families have been obliged to leave their huts
and flee for refuge to the bluffs at a distance often of several miles.
At some points the river is expanded from an average width of
half a mile to the breadth of eight or ten miles from bluff to bluff.
We saw several cabins and houses of which the roofs only were
above the water. But I have since seen so much greater desola
tions on the Mississippi, that these seem almost of no account.
" A western steamboat is at first sight a novelty to one familiar
only with eastern models. The boats on the western waters are
very slightly built — mere shells of pine, shallow, long, narrow,
flat-bottomed, open and flaring on all sides, just as represented in
Banvard's panorama. There is no cabin either below the deck or
upon it."
Most of the boats have good cabins and well-furnished
saloons, both for ladies and gentlemen, beside state-rooms.
" The engines are placed immediately on the lower deck, two
huge furnaces flaming upon you as you enter the boat, and giving
you rather uncomfortable hints of a choice between fire and water
in making your exit from the world.
" Huge flaming brands and coals are dropping continually upon
the thinnest possible sheathing of sheet-iron, in many places worn
through to the plank ; heated pipes on which you cannot bear your
hand are in immediate contact with boards as dry as tinder, and per
haps already charred ; goods, you know not how inflammable, are
strown promiscuously around the boilers, while huge piles of dry
pine wood, waiting to be consumed, are crowded in the vicinity of
the fires. But not every traveler has the habit that I confess to
of prying into every thing about him, and therefore few probably
enjoy the peculiar sensation of sailing on the rim of a volcano.
However, there is nothing like getting used to it, and I learned to
sleep quite soundly.
" The cabin is up stairs, and extends nearly the whole length of
the deck, over which it is perched upon sundry posts that seem too
frail for a summer's breeze ; this is divided into a long, narrow sa
loon, from stem to stern, and a row of state-rooms on either hand.
An apartment for ladies is curtained off at one extremity, while
the main saloon is used for meals, conversation, promenading, card-
playing, and whatsoever one may list. The kitchen, pantry, bar,
etc. , are all contiguous to the saloon ; with every convenience for
'life above stairs,' so that passengers may spend days in and
317
around this saloon without knowing any thing of the deck life be
low. Some of the state-rooms that open both into the saloon and
upon the guard are very airy and pleasant. If, however, there is
any deficiency in regard to neatness and comfort, it is in this de
partment of the boat. We took passage in the Prairie State, one
of the best boats on the river. The furniture was neat, and the
table excellent — always excepting the preponderance of grease in
western cookery. But the ideas of civilization exhibited in the
state-rooms reminded me of Dr. BushnelPs discourse on Barbarism
as the first danger of the West, a sermon that contained some of the
truest of his paradoxes. In a cozy chat with the captain, I found
him a clever, polite, and attentive gentleman.
" The scenery of the Illinois river is rather low and monotonous,
but sufficiently picturesque to arrest the eye of a stranger. It sa
vored of the romantic to sail at times through the woods — the water
spreading indefinitely among the trees — and in the middle of the
stream to bring up at the second story of a house that seemed to
say, ' For freight or passage apply within.'
" Peoria is the most beautiful town on the river. Situated on
rising ground, a broad plateau extending back from the bluif, it
has escaped the almost universal inundation. Indeed, the river
here expands into a broad, deep lake, that embosoms the rising
flood. This lake is a most beautiful feature in the natural scenery
of the town, and is as useful as it is beautiful, supplying the in
habitants with ample stores of fish, and in winter with an abun
dance of the purest ice. It is often frozen to such a thickness that
heavy teams and droves of cattle can pass securely over it. A sub
stantial drawbridge connects the town with the opposite shore.
The town is neatly laid out in rectangular blocks, the streets being
wide and well graded. A public square has been reserved near
the present center. The place wears quite a New England aspect ;
its schools and churches are prosperous, and its society is good.
Back of the town extends one of the finest rolling prairies in the
State ; this region already furnishes to Peoria its supplies and
much of its business, which is destined to increase as plankroads
and like improvements shall bring the producer nearer to the market
I am struck with the sagacity shown in selecting the sites of many
of these Western towns, of which La Salle and Peoria are exam
ples. May ' the children of light' be equally sagacious in choosing
their points of action and influence for Christ !
" Traveling on these western waters throws one into all sorts of
society, and affords a fine opportunity for the study of human na-
318 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
ture. I found a number of emigrants, Irish and German, on the
deck, occupying sundry extempore bunks, and living on their own
bread and cheese.
" These emigrants have a hard life of it. Poor fare and exposure
to the elements, on the open deck of the boat, often engender dis
ease among them, and break up families before they reach their
destined home. There should be an active missionary agency on all
the rivers of the West. The deck-hands need such an influence,
for they have no Sabbath, and are fearfully addicted to profane-
ness and intemperance. Their manner of life begets a recklessness
of death and of all solemn and sacred things. f A man overboard,'
no unusual event on boats nowhere guarded by a rail, or a death
by cholera, now becoming frequent, make these men callous rather
than thoughtful, and render life and death alike cheap in their es
timate.
" The freedom of the western character, and the independence
of the western mind, united with the native love of argumentation
in the Anglo-American race, render it easy to engage men in dis
cussion, to while away the listless hours of steamboat traveling."
Here a long theological discussion was had among the
passengers, to while the time pleasantly and excitingly
away.
"From Naples to Jacksonville the ride is by railroad, about
twenty-five miles over a rolling prairie, the name given to those
vast tracts of land, level or undulating, which in their natural
state are entirely destitute of trees, and crowned with a rich growth
of grass. Jacksonville is located in the heart of such a region, with
no streams or timber, except here and there a grove, with no rocks
or stones, and hardly an approximation to a hill. It looks not like
an oasis in the desert, but like a finely cut medallion set upon a
bosom of the richest satin. As I drew near, I availed myself of the
kind offices of a genteel colored man, who pointed out the various
public buildings. When he showed me the College, he assured me
that the President was ' a very intelligent gentleman,' an opinion
which I have had ample means of confirming. It is well for a col
lege when its President is not only respected in the world of sci
ence and of letters, but, like the illustrious Dwight, is known and
esteemed and loved by all classes in the community in which he
lives.
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 319
" The first view of the prairies reminds one of the truthful and
eloquent description of our own BRYANT :
" ' Lo ! they stretch
In airy undulations, far away,
As if the Ocean, in his gentler swell,
Stood still, with all his rounded billows fixed,
And motionless forever. Motionless ?
No — they are all unchained again. The clouds
Sweep over with their shadows, and, beneath,
The surface rolls and fluctuates to the eye ;
Dark hollows seem to glide along and chase
The sunny ridges. * * * *
Man hath no part in all this glorious work ;
The hand that built the firmament hath heaved
And smoothed these verdant swells, and sown their slopes
With herbage, planted them with island groves,
And hedged them round with forests. Fitting floor
For this magnificent temple of the sky —
With flowers whose glory and whose multitude
Rival the constellations ! The great heavens
Seem to stoop down upon the scene in love —
A nearer vault, and of a tenderer blue,
Than that which bends above the eastern hills.'
" The descent from the poetic to the practical would be far too
tame ; so I will close.
" Dear me ! how long it takes this letter-writer to come at any
thing. He has been five or six weeks, already, in getting to our
town.
" Have patience, reader, and always remember that this is a
great country, and letter-writing, at least to him who perpetrates
it, a great bore. T."
" The Earl of Carlisle, [formerly Lord MORPETH,] in his * Trav
els in America,' speaks of the place whose name is the subject
of this communication in the following terms : ' At Jacksonville, in
Illinois, I was told a large colony of Yorkshiremen were settled,
and I was the more easily induced to believe it, as it seemed to me
about the most thriving and best cultivated neighborhood I had
seen.' I know nothing of the nationality of the first actual settlers
of Jacksonville ; but the tradition of the place is, that the township
was entered and named by a company of reckless adventurers,
who, having halted at this locality, on an exploring tour, held here
a drunken revel, and under this excitement agreed to enter the
lands around them and to found a city, which, in honor of the then
320 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
President, they named Jacksonville, solemnizing the christening by
breaking and pouring out a bottle of spirits. For awhile the place
partook of the character of its founders ; but being an inland settle
ment, it did not afford the same facilities for the growth of wicked
ness as do the river towns.
" Of this early character of the place no trace remains at present
but its name and "this tradition. Lord Morpeth would hardly
claim for his countrymen such an agency in founding a community
as has now been described ; but, considering the beauties of the
place, it was a handsome compliment, while lecturing before a
Yorkshire Lyceum, to attribute the thrift and comeliness of Jack
sonville to a colony of Yorkshiremen. If the appearance of the
town ten years ago warranted such an encomium from an intelli
gent stranger, I shall not be thought extravagant in pronouncing
it the Paradise of the West, where, amid the luxuriant growth of
the fruits of the earth flourish with a scarce less vigorous growth
all good social, educational, and religious institutions.
" But the praise of its present prosperity is due not to the farm
ing skill of Yorkshiremen, or the mere agricultural thrift of any
class of settlers, but mainly to the influence of a colony of young
men who went there years ago not for farms or merchandize, but
for the cause of education and religion. This has made the place a
center of knowledge, of piety, and of benevolence, for a region des
tined to be as populous as it is fertile and inviting. Upon this very
field there have been conflicts and sacrifices for Christ and his Gos
pel kindred to those of the foreign missionary work, and that not
in a remote period, but within the memory and in the persons of
some who are now among the active men of the community. But
the day of sacrifice is over — that of reward has already come ; the
conflict is ended and the triumph secure.
" The men who planted the institutions of Jacksonville had been
thoroughly trained in schools of academic and theological learning
at the East, and put themselves thoroughly under the school of
Christ amid the privations and toils of a new society at the West.
The result shows the wisdom of looking very early in the history
of a community, toward permanent institutions that shall mould that
community and give it its life and power for generations. I re
joice in the work of tract and book distribution now so thoroughly
organized over our country ; I wish it were even ten times more
active and efficient; I see its necessity, its adaptation, and its gen
eral usefulness. But I bless God that the energies of His people
are not wholly absorbed in efforts for to-day ; that some, as wise
321
master builders, are engaged in laying foundations for generations
to come ; nay, foundations that ere this generation shall pass away
— such is the growth of society at the West — shall sustain stable and
beautiful superstructures, built for Time. — But I anticipate.
"At first sight of Jacksonville, you wonder how the spot ever
came to be chosen for the location of a town. It looks like a vil
lage made to order at the East, with neat houses — some wood, some
brick — some cottage-shaped, and others more ambitious, with gar
dens filled with flowers and shrubbery, with wide and cleanly
streets adorned with shade trees, with a pleasant public square
inclosed with a plain white fence, and graced (except that the rickety
building has no grace about it) with the court-house and public
offices, with schools and academies, with churches, and a college,
all clustering about the village center, while well-tilled farms
stretch along the borders on every side — it looks, I say, like a
model New England village made to order, with such improvements
as old villages that have grown up gradually do not admit of, and
transported hither by some magic machinery and set down in the
midst of the prairie, for picturesque effect, or as a wholesale spec
ulation in city lots.
" Now that the village is there, you see that it is pretty, and
seemly, and convenient ; that there was need of it, and that it is
likely to prosper, in a moderate way, as a place of business ; and
when you have heard the forementioned tradition, you understand
how there happens to be a village in this precise meridian at all ;
but when you inquire farther for the propriety of the location, you
see no river, no hills, no forests, no streams, nothing in short that
should have led to the selection of this particular section of the
vast prairie as the site of a town, rather than any other within
twenty miles of it. A more careful study, however, of the fea
tures of the country shows that it was a lucky accident that hit
upon this location ; for while there is nothing in or about Jack
sonville that can aspire to the name of a hill, the adjacent country
is rolling and exhibits sundry mounds, not Indian, but natural,
that swell in some instances to the hight of forty or fifty feet !
While there are no forests, there are sundry beautiful groves, that
vary the scenery and also furnish a partial supply of lumber; and,
in the absence of a mill-stream, the low, sluggish, muddy, ever
devious Movestar, winds itself all about the town. This name, by
the way, is a corruption of the French J\fauvaise Terre (bad coun
try), which for some unknown reason was given to the creek by
French explorers at its mouth, where it empties into the Illinois.
322 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
" But never was there a more decided misnomer. Bad land,
forsooth ! Let the New England farmer who has spent half his
life in gathering the stones and grubbing the stumps out of a five
acre lot, and the other half in trying to make lean, jaundiced corn
grow in the two inches of soil, come out and look upon these corn
fields of hundreds of acres, where the rich black loam is turned up
by the plow to the depth of two feet, where is never seen a stick or
a stone, where the hoe is never used, but weeds are plowed up by
driving the team between the rows, and where, as the season ad
vances, one may ride on horseback through acres of corn without
once seeing over the tops of the -gigantic stalks, and where in har
vest time the wondrous cutting-machine, drawn by horses, like the
old scythe-armed chariot of Roman warfare, as it forces its mighty
swath through the toppling grain, mocks at the puny efforts of the
sickle, and the hot and weary day's work of a man.
" To one who has not looked upon these immense fields, waving
for the harvest, it is impossible to convey any adequate idea of the
richness of the cereal products of this region. Here may be
realized the statement of the vast wealth of Job in lands, and corn,
and stock. In the immediate vicinity of Jacksonville is one farm
containing seven thousand acres, under cultivation, with thou
sands of sheep and oxen, and ten thousands of ephahs of corn.
The proprietor finds it no easy matter to ride over his vast domain,
and to superintend the management of its every part.
"A prairie farm is always conducted on a magnificent scale.
The fences, if there are any, do not cut it up in little acre patches,
but divide it into stately squares ranging from forty-acre lots to
half a ' section.' This I found to the sorrow of my aching feet
upon going one day to see some buffaloes kept for improving stock.
I was told that I would find them 'just down at the lower end of
the field,' in reaching which I had to walk full half a mile or more.
The sight of such a farm on a rolling prairie, partly in grass,
partly in corn, partly in grain and garden vegetables, as the sun
chases over it the cloudy shadows, and the light breeze waves the
distant grove, to a lover of the beautiful is perfectly enchanting.
" But it is not in cereals alone that these prairies are produc
tive. Fruits come to great perfection in this soil and climate.
Peaches are very abundant, and the choicest varieties of apples
may be introduced by grafting. It is so easy, however, to raise
the one great staple, corn, that orchards have been comparatively
neglected ; indeed they have hardly had time to come to perfec
tion. I had no thought of detracting from the merits of ' this
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 323
country' — to use the current western phrase — when I spoke dubi
ously of my prospects for the strawberry season, in taking leave
of the Erie Railroad. But on the very morning of my arrival I
was regaled with finely flavored strawberries swimming in lucious
cream ; and I found this delicious fruit to be everywhere a common
article of the table. It is a gross idea of some Eastern people
that the inhabitants of the West live entirely upon pork and corn ,
in some parts of the West the living is coarse enough ; but in such
villages as I am now describing, the family table is spread with all
the comforts and delicacies of the East — excepting of course sea
food, which can be had only in pickle or in jars hermetically
sealed.
' ' And then the living is cheap, even in the choicer articles of food.
Think of fine, fat, spring chickens for $ 1 or $1 50 per dozen ; of
quails (partridges) and pigeons in abundance ; of eggs at three or
four cents a dozen ; of beef at six or eight cents a pound ; of a tur
key weighing nineteen pounds for fifty cents ; and of flour at $3
or $4 a barrel. A man can live like a prince in Jacksonville for
what would barely suffice to pay his house-rent in New York.
" And yet how many mechanics and clerks are ekeing out a
scanty subsistence in New York upon a precarious income of from
$500 to $1,500, when for the first named sum they might live com
fortably in such a western village, and possibly lay up money be
sides. Many, especially mechanics, could find ready employment
in such places at good wages. If, however, too many should crowd
at once into the same place, competition would ensue, and with it
would come many of the evils of city life. Indeed I almost hesitate
to let out the secret of this western paradise, and I surely dread to
have its Arcadian repose disturbed by the puffing of the locomotive
with an express train from New York.
" The great railroads will essentially modify the main features of
western life ; will equalize prices by finding a market for produce,
and by bringing in more abundantly goods from abroad ; will in
troduce more of the city element into business, and will make ad
venturers and speculators still more abundant. In due time these
prairies will be attached to the suburbs of New York ; the great
West will be but a day's ride into the country ; and its inhabitants
will be sending to New York for their flour and garden sauce.
" The churches contribute to all objects of Christian benevo
lence. There are also in the village several societies — some formed
exclusively of ladies — for aiding the cause of missions and the
cause of education. From this source relief is afforded to indigent
824 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
students in the college, and female teachers are educated for the
common schools of the State ; the daughters of ministers and of
farmers, accustomed to hard fare and hard work, and familiar with
western society, are thus qualified for the office of instruction, and
these in general prove to be more efficient and adaptative teachers
than those sent from the East. The money expended upon Jack
sonville is already yielding a good return. Here the Portuguese
exiles have found a home, with a congenial climate, warm Chris
tian sympathy, and steady employment and support. They are
mostly doing well ; and with a little Yankee thrift and tidiness
might do far better.
"The Charitable Institutions of the State are located at this
point. Asylums for the Deaf and Dumb, the Insane, and the
Blind, occupy relatively three sides of a quadrangle around the
village, each about a mile from its center. The fh*st of these has
about one hundred inmates, and is under excellent regulation.
" The institution is sustained wholly by State-tax. Its inmates
appeared cheerful and bright, as the deaf and dumb always do.
In general they are quick learners, and enjoy the acquisition of
knowledge. While I stood by and witnessed their devotions at
morning prayer in the chapel, I was so struck with the expressive
ness of signs or symbols for religious uses, that I almost became
upon the spot a convert to Dr. Bushnell's theory of language. It
was aifecting to hear the unintelligent, mechanical utterance of
sounds by some who had once used the organs of speech, but who,
with the loss of hearing, had ceased also to speak. The Asylum
for the Insane is not yet in operation. The noble building, like
that for the deaf and dumb, occupies a little rise of ground, and
is visible at a great distance. From the cupola of either you have
an extensive prospect of the prairie sea, diversified with island
groves. The Institution for the Blind is in successful operation,
but the building designed for it is not yet completed.
" The Methodists have erected at Jacksonville a large Female
Seminary, a product of their centenary fund. There is also an
other Female Academy in the place, of a high order, and of long
standing, under the auspices of Congregationalists and Presbyte
rians. In addition to this, there is a sort of Free Academy, and a
good supply of schools of every grade. But to me the chief object
of interest, both historically and prospectively, was Illinois Col
lege. For years I had been familiar with the toils and struggles
of the men engaged in founding and rearing that institution, and
it was with no common emotion that I looked upon the work of
325
their hands. The site selected for the college is the most beauti
ful in all the region, and perhaps is not equalled in the State. Upon
a rise of ground, skirted with a luxuriant grove, far away from
the miasma of rivers, the bustle of commerce, and the wrangle of
politics, is this seat of learning and religion, which was itself mo
deled in the main after Yale College.
" I was more disturbed than disappointed at finding the college
buildings so unsightly and so illy adapted to the present wants of
the institution. The main building, which is the primitive chapel
pieced out, is so low in the stories and so cramped in all its dimen
sions, that one has to stoop in order to enter it or to get up the
steep and narrow stairway; the recitation rooms are poorly
finished, and the whole structure looks old and crazy. It was
built with poor brick and in dear times. The people of Jack
sonville should replace it by one more worthy of their present
prosperity ; they should not suffer such an eye-sore to mar the
most lovely spot in their town. Let them send a committee to
Beloit to see the building that the citizens of that infant place have
erected for their College, and then go to work at once with a sub
scription paper for their own.
" The College is now well manned both in the number and the
quality of its instructors. There is need, however, of a Professor
of Rhetoric, to impart a polish and finish to the strong, rough ma
terials of the western mind.
" To pass from the intellectual to the physical, I saw at Jack
sonville a striking connection between these two, in the hedge
recently introduced by Mr. Turner, formerly Professor in the
College. It would puzzle the 'cutest Yankee to guess out the con
nection between hedges and common schools ; but here they must
rise or fall together. Years ago, Pi'ofessor T. attempted to intro
duce into Illinois the New England system of Common Schools.
But he soon found that the farmers, who had located their farms
along the borders of the prairies, near the timber, in order to build
their fences with ease, were too widely scattered to be formed into
school districts after the New England fashion. Before this could
be done, some method must be devised of fencing the prairies,
BO that settlements could be made in the centers. Mr. T. experi
mented with various shrubs for hedging, but without success, until
he made trial of the Osage orange ; this grows rapidly, endures
the winter, and ic covered with thorns. It has become universally
popular, and already stretches across the prairies for hundreds
of miles. Now it is practicable to plant a village in the very
28
826 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
heart of a prairie, with farms stretching outward to its borders ;
and in these compact settlements schools and churches can be sus
tained. So much for the union of natural and moral husbandry.
Jlpropos of shrubbery, I may mention that every shade tree in
Jacksonville, of which there are hundreds, was set out within the
memory of inhabitants not yet gray.
" I have now said enough of Jacksonville for one letter, and
yet the half is not yet told. But I must hasten on to the Missis
sippi.
" In conclusion I will give only one additional evidence of pro
gress in this region. Fifteen years ago, about the time of the Al
ton riot, the College commencements were held under the restraint
of a mob, upon the watch lest any allusion should be made to
Liberty. Now, a graduate of Illinois College, an intelligent law
yer residing in Jacksonville, has just been elected to Congress as
a known free-soiler. T."
Some pages back is given a description, by Mr. T., of a
flood in the Illinois river ; and here follows his account of
a flood in the Mississippi ; the fearful grandeur of these
occurrences cannot be appreciated without witnessing
them :
"It was worth no little inconvenience and disappointment in
other respects, to see the Mississippi at its flood, and especially the
flood of this year's June. The water has been higher in some
former years ; at St. Louis it was yet some eighteen inches below
the highest mark on the flood monument ; but the annual rise of
the Missouri had not taken place, and this flood came chiefly from
the Upper Mississippi and its tributaries. In Iowa there was a
more general rising of the streams than has been known since its
settlement by white men.
" To conceive rightly of the appearance of this flood, one must
form a conception of the bottoms that flank the Mississippi on
either side. These bottoms resemble what at the East is called a
marsh, except that when the river is low they are not wet and
miry like our marshes, and they are commonly more or less cov
ered with a heavy growth of timber. The bottoms of the Missis
sippi are not uniform ; sometimes they occur on both sides of the
river, sometimes only on one, while there is a high bluff or bank
on the other ; not unfrequently they reach back to a distance of
327
eight or ten miles and even farther, being bounded by an eleva
tion or bluff, which may have been the ancient bank of the river.
In ordinary stages of the water these bottoms are so far drained
by absorption and evaporation, that they may be brought under
cultivation, and the temptation to this is strong, on account of
the richness of the alluvial deposits. Hence in spite of past floods
the soil of the bottom is broken up by the plow, and the seed
sown in hope of exemption from another rise. These bottoms,
however, are more apt to be occupied by the poorer class of peo
ple, who earn their living by cutting wood for the boats, and who
are content to live in a rude cabin surrounded by a little garden
patch.
A rise of a few inches in the level of the river suffices to over
flow the bottoms, and sometimes, as during the present summer,
they are covered with water for an area of many miles, and to the
depth, perhaps, of several feet. Such a rise is of course highly
destructive to property, and sometimes to life. Wood, grain, and
cattle are swept away ; crops are destroyed ; fences and other im
provements are demolished ; houses made untenantable, and their
occupants obliged to flee for safety to the higher ground in the
rear. The damage done by such a flood, spreading over thousands
of miles and continuing for many weeks, can be computed only by
millions of dollars. I heard of one individual who lost by this
flood 1,500 cords of wood (worth from $3,000 to $4,000) and 3,000
sacks of grain.
" The aspect of the river during the flood is at once majestic and
picturesque. Well does it then deserve the name Father of Waters.
You behold a strong, swift current, in or near the accustomed bed
of the stream, running perhaps seven miles an hour, and some
times forcing for itself a new channel, while on either hand the
water spreads out among the trees as far as the eye can reach,
giving the impression of a sail through a deluged grove. The many
islands of the river, some of them beautifully wooded, highten tho
picturesque effect, and contribute to this illusion. In one instance,
through an opening in the woods, I saw the bottom overspread to
an extent that the eye could not measure — the bluffs seemed as
remote as does the Long Island shore in passing up the Sound to
New Haven — but here and there fragments of fences, a haypole,
or the roof of a barn were seen jutting up as melancholy monu
ments of the general ruin.
" Some of the towns on the river have suffered severely from
the inundation of their lower streets ; but others, such as Alton,
328 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Quincy, and Keokuk, which are built mainly upon the bluffs
have escaped. Alexandria, at the mouth of the Des Moines river,
appeared to have been the heaviest sufferer ; nearly if not every
house being more or less inundated, and the inhabitants having
deserted the town almost en masse. I was told by a fellow-trav
eler that the ferry-boat which usually runs about half a mile
across the mouth of the river, was obliged to sail eight miles across
the bottom to make a landing.
" Think now of the volume of water requisite to raise the Mis
sissippi a few inches only, when these immense bottoms are over
flowed, especially to raise it, as was one day noted, at the rate of an
inch an hour, or two feet in the twenty-four ! I never before had
such an impression of the power of water as an agent in geolog
ical changes ; nothing can resist such a flood. There is much in
the geological features of this region to indicate the agency of far
mightier floods in years or ages gone. Perhaps, as has been sug
gested, the great lakes once emptied through this channel to the
sea. Lake Michigan seems now on the map to be turned upside
doAvn, and the almost dead level at Chicago favors the idea that it
once emptied itself southward. In digging a well at Jacksonville
there was found, twenty-five feet below the surface, a solitary
piece of Lake Superior copper. How came it there ? Or whence
came the marine shells that strew the bank of the Mississippi near
New Boston ?
" For a considerable distance above St. Louis, the banks of the
Mississippi are comparatively level, -excepting the bluffs of Alton
and Quincy; but above the rapids, the bluffs become a more fre
quent feature of the scenery, and when cultivated or covered with
shrubbery, are exceedingly beautiful. The entrance of Fevre
river, especially, presents commanding bluffs, rising in a conical
form, to which the name of mounds is given, and which serve as
way-marks to the traveler. Opposite Dubuque I noticed several
artificial mounds, usually supposed to be the burial places of the
Indians.
" As I here gazed at sunset upon the bluff of castellated rock,
its green summit crowned with these sepulchral knolls, arranged
with the precision and order of a camp, and then looked down
upon its solemn shadow in the still stream below, I seemed to stand
within the halls of a departed race, where wild mirth and revelry,
the war-whoop and the battle dance broke on my ear, till suddenly
there came a rush of many feet, a whirlwind, and a cloud, and
mirth and dance and battle song were hushed in death.
THOMPSON'S LETTERS, 329
" ' Are they here ? —
The dead of other days ? — and did the dust
Of these fair solitudes once stir with life
And burn with passion ? Let the mighty mounds
That overlook the rivers, or that rise
In the dim forest, crowded with old oaks,
Answer. A race that long has passed away,
Built them ; a disciplined and populous race
Heaped, with long toil, the earth, while yet the Greek
Was hewing the Pentilicus to forms
Of symmetry, and rearing on its rock
The glittering Parthenon. * * *
* * * * The red man came —
The roaming hunter-tribes, warlike and fierce,
And the mound-builders vanished from the earth.
The solitude of centuries untold
Has settled where they dwelt. * * *
Thus change the forms of being. Thus arise
Races of living things, glorious in strength,
And perish, as the quickening breath of God
Fills them, or is withdrawn. The red man, too-,
Has left the blooming wilds he ranged so long,
And, nearer to the Rocky Mountains, sought
A wider hunting-ground.' — BRYANT.
" A day spent at KEOKUK was not lost nor regretted, for it gave
me an opportunity of seeing one of the most promising young
cities of the West, in the first impulse of its growth and prosperity.
Keokuk is finely situated in the southeastern extremity of Iowa,
at the foot of the Mississippi rapids, where it must always be a
principal depot of trade between the river and the interior. Hav
ing one broad street on the river slope, the main body of the town
is built back upon the bluff, whence is enjoyed a fine prospect of
the river and its bends above and below. A few years since this
place was the rendezvous of gamblers, horse-thieves, and all sorts
of miscreants. Its very name was a terror, and the lives of immi
grants and strangers were never secure there for a single night.
But the owners of the soil, and others who saw the fitness of the
place for trade, entered into a combination to oust these nefarious
characters, and now all trace of them is gone, except here and
there a gambling-saloon, which you will see undisguised in almost
every Mississippi town. Religious influences came in to aid this
reform, and the result is that the whole character of the place is-
changed, and it offers the highest inducements to settlers. To be
380 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
sure, its growth has been somewhat impeded by the Half-Breed
difficulties, and dispute about titles (the Half-breeds to whom this
land was ceded, having sold their interest over and over again,
and thus created a variety of claimants) ; but notwithstanding
this, its natural advantages and the enterprise of its business men
have put it quite in the foreground as a commercial town.
" At present the Presbyterian Church is without a pastor, but
Rev. Mr. Williams, who is engaged in teaching, supplies its pulpit
very acceptably. Mr. W. is building a fine stone mansion, after
the plan of Downing's octagon, in connection with which he will
have a Seminary for young ladies, of the highest order. I found
an excellent teacher from the Ladies' Society of Boston, engaged
here in a prosperous school, herself and her labors being held in
much esteem.
" There is a grant of forty acres of valuable land in this place
for the use of a Congregational church, whenever one shall be es
tablished ; but the time for a second church does not yet seem to
have arrived.
" It was interesting to observe how the trade of this region is
setting toward New York. While Keokuk is increasing its trade
with the interior by plankroads, it is looking forward to the com
pletion of railroad enterprises that shall bring it within a few days
of this metropolis. The same is true generally of Iowa, Wiscon
sin, and Illinois. An intelligent merchant was one day comment
ing, in my hearing, on the foolish and suicidal subserviency of the
St. Louis press to the slaveholding interest. I rejoined, that I sup
posed St. Louis was sure of her Western trade, and was bidding
for the Southern. ' Not so,' said he ; 'it is exactly the reverse.
She is sure of some southern trade, but we are only waiting for
railroads to be completed that we may deal with New York.' There
is some moral here for New York merchants.
" The geology of Keokuk is interesting. There is a rich quarry
near by, where geodes and trilobites are found in abundance, and
of remarkable beauty.
" Montrose is a small town about twelve miles north of Keokuk.
The approach to it by land is very beautiful. From a bluff about
two miles distant, you see cultivated farms and a neat village
spread out in the bottom at your feet, the river winding gracefully
around, while on the opposite bluff glitters the huge marble tem
ple of Nauvoo, where the Icarian CABET is now trying his Socialist
experiment with four hundred families, that live apart, but have
all things in common. I allude to this place merely to speak of
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 331
the worthy and self-denying labors of Rev. Mr. Beaman, the home
missionary stationed here, who traverses a circuit of fifteen or
twenty miles, and sustains ten preaching stations.
" FORT MADISON. — This town is somewhat of a rival to Keokuk,
though its natural advantages are inferior, on account of the rap
ids, which at low water are impassable by the larger boats. It
has the air of a substantial, well-built town, whose inhabitants are
preity independent of the rest of the world. The State Peniten
tiary is located here, to which a criminal convicted of murder was
conducted as we were passing up the river. Thus crime every
where obtrudes itself, and deforms the most lovely scenes of nature
anl the happiest abodes of men.
•' BURLINGTON. — A fair and thriving city is Burlington, with its
loig levee bustling with busy life, and its substantial stores and
fine churches of brick and stone. It does not grow now so rapidly
as heretofore, partly because of the removal of the Seat of Govern
ment to IOWA CITY, and partly on account of a reputation for un-
healthiness, which has been greatly exaggerated. Yet it increases
with a steady and healthy growth. The society of the place is
hospitable, intelligent, and refined ; and in religious privileges
Burlington is not surpassed by any western town. Its ministers,
of all denominations, are able and efficient men, and its newspaper
press is quite above the average. I heard here an excellent dis
course from Rev. Mr. Salter, pastor of the Congregational Church,
in improvement of the then desolating flood. One could not but
jemark how serious a detriment to the quiet, the good order, and
ihe good morals of the place, is the desecration of the Sabbath by
the arrival and departure of steamboats. The shrill whistle star
tles the whole town ; all is bustle at the hotels, while the levee is
thronged with laborers awaiting to receive or send off freight.
No wonder that western pastors are grieved when, in the midst of
all this tumult, some minister or other Christian brother from the
East lands from the boat, or takes his passage to economize time.
"DAVENPORT. — This town boasts of a finer location than almost
any other on the Mississippi. Here the bluff assumes a sort of
Highland beauty, cultivated however to a degree of which the bar
ricades of the Hudson will not admit. Davenport is a healthy lo
cation, and partly on this account has been selected as the site of
Iowa College. This institution has opened under good auspices.
A small but neat building has been erected for its use, on a sum
mit in the rear of the town. The location is central as regards the
river boundary of Iowa, but as the state fills up it may require to
332 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
be removed to the interior, and away from the temptations of a
river town, with its usual incidents of gambling houses and stroll
ing circuses and theaters, which are here transported by steam
boat from place to place. This should be well considered before
much money is invested in college buildings, and especially in view
of the proximity into which Davenport will soon be brought by
railroad to Illinois and Knox, and to Beloit Colleges. Beautiful as
is the present location of the College, and eligible just now in all
respects as is the town that has adopted this infant institution, I
must doubt whether it should here become a fixture. These, how
ever, are mere passing observations, thrown out in entire friendli
ness, as hints to those more competent to judge.
" Bellevue is rightly named, seated as it is upon a bend of the
river, where it commands a view for miles of its broad rolling flood.
Like Keokuk, once a nest of thieves and gamblers, now purified and
reviving under happier influences. How destructive is vice to pros
perity, and to society itself! Religion is the conservator of both."
" DUBUQUE. — I felt at home in Dubuque, especially when I found
myself in the comfortable abode and amid the warm fraternil
greetings of ' Our Iowa Correspondent.' How sweetly this queen
city, with its wide, rectangular, well-shaded streets, lies spread
out upon its broad plateau, much as New Haven lies between east
and west rocks ; but New Haven can never boast of such a verdure
as here clothes alike bluff and plateau. And then the river, here
a mile in width, rolling so majestically, flanked on its other shor3
with tall and verdant bluffs, and studded with islands of richest
green ! How gorgeous that sunset view, varying with every tint
of sky, and water, and meadow, and woodland, as I reclined upon
the bluff, (I should call this a hill, but that nomenclature is foreign
to the West,) and for a moment forgot that there was aught in the
world save beauty and love, the love of nature, the love of God, the
love of Christian brethren, here made one !
" I was surprised to find in these remote parts a fine, commo
dious brick church, with a neat white steeple, pretty green blinds,
an organ, a lecture-room, and every appurtenance for the comfort
of the congregation. This was built mainly through the personal
exertions of Rev. Mr. Holbrook, who came here as a home mission
ary to a then insignificant settlement, and has seen spring up around
him a city that can subscribe its hundreds of thousands to railroads
and other public improvements. In ten years its population has
increased from 1,300 to 3,710 ; but that of Burlington has increased
from 1,300 to 5,102."
333
The population of these cities is understated ; they each
contain not far from 7,000 inhabitants, and are rapidly
growing ; one, sustained by a rich mineral region, and the
other by a farming country :
" Here, as in many western towns, are the foundations of a huge
Catholic cathedral, yet to be ; and the bishop has here fixed his
seat. A Fourth of July procession of the united Sabbath schools
of Galena and Dubuque — a row of happy children a mile in length —
that chanced to cross his path, must have suggested to him that he
has work to do. Our Bishop HOLBROOK can well afford to laugh,
where once he might have feared.
" The mining resources of Dubuque and its vicinity, in marble
and coal, and in lead and other metals, are very extensive, and
must be productive of vast wealth. Iowa is destined to become a
rich State; for, beside a most fertile soil, it has treasures within
the earth, unmeasured and perhaps inexhaustible. Emigration is
setting largely toward this State the present season, and the emi
grants are generally of the better class. I asked several why they
did not go into Missouri, where the land and climate are equally
good. The uniform reply was, that they would not live in a slave
State. An intelligent man from the interior of Iowa, on the Mis
souri line, told me that he could buy cleared farms in Missouri for
a very slight advance on government prices ; while farms in no
better condition, on the Iowa side of the line, would command from
ten to fifteen dollars an acre ! There is the economy of slavery.
I found some emigrating from Missouri into Iowa for that very
cause. I was surprised at the quantity of household furniture and
farming utensils brought up the Mississippi by every boat.
" A true pioneer crossed my path. He had lived in Iowa since
its first settlement, but now the inhabitants were getting too thick
for him there. They had towns and fences, and ' lawing and jaw
ing,' and he was going West. He had been up to the head waters
of the Missouri, and had secured a quiet spot among the Indians
of Nebraska.
" What a field does Iowa open to the emigrant, and what a field
to the Christian! With 50,914 square miles, or 32,584,960 acres
of rich land, and yet greater riches in the bowels of the earth ;
with schools, academies, churches, and a college, springing into
vigorous life, Iowa must yet become one of the chief States of the
Union. As yet, only its Mississippi border can be said to be in
habited ; but, in ten years, its population has increased from 43,111
334 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
to 192,247, a gain of nearly 150,000. This increase will hereafter
be much more rapid.
" ' I hear
The sound of that advancing multitude
Which soon shall fill these deserts. From the ground
Comes up the laugh of children, the soft voice
Of maidens ; and the sweet and solemn hymn
Of Sabbath worshipers. The low of herds
Blends with the rustling of the heavy grain
Over the dark-brown furrows.'
" One thing already gives everywhere the sign of civilized life —
the Telegraph wire stretching from post to post along all the routes
of travel, and having a station in almost every town. It seemed
like the nervous system of the nation, conveying, quick as thought,
the least sensation from extremity to head, the least volition from
head to extremity. Like the great sympathetic nerve, too, it has
its ganglions, where nervous action is concentrated to be farther
distributed along the lines of feeling. Or, like a vast arterial sys
tem, it carries the pulsations of the heart to the farthest extremity ;
and by these wires stretched across the Mississippi, I could hear
the sharp, quick beating of the great heart of New York. Hugh
Miller's beautiful conception of the telegraph music, as he stood
waiting for a railroad train, chimes in with my feelings as I gazed
upon the wires beyond the Father of Waters.
" ' There blew a breeze from the west, just strong enough,
though it scarce waved the withered grass on the slopes below, to
set the wires of the electric telegraph a- vibrating overhead, and
they rung sonorous and clear in the quiet of the morning, like the
strings of some gigantic musical instrument. How many thousand
passengers must have hurried along the rails during the last
twelvemonth, their ears so filled by the grinding noises of the wheels
and the snortings of the engine, as never to have discovered that
each stretch from post to post of the wires that accompanies them
throughout their journey, forms a great JEolian harp, full, when
the wind blows, of all rich tones, from those of the murmurs of
myriads of bees collecting honey-dew among the leaves of a forest,
to those of the howlings of the night-hurricane amid the open tur
rets and deserted corridors of some haunted castle. I bethought
me — as the train, half enveloped in smoke and steam, came rush
ing up, with shriek and groan, and the melody above, wild, yet
singularly pleasing, was lost in the din — of Wordsworth's fine lines
on ' the voice of tendency,' and found that they had become sud
denly linked in my mind with a new association :
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 335
•"The mighty stream of TENDENCY
Utters, for elevation of our thought,
A clear, sonorous voice, inaudible
To the vast multitude, whose doom it is
To throng the clamorous highways of the world.'
" One more sheaf to be gathered from the prairies and groves of
Illinois and Wisconsin, and I shall lay aside the sickle. T."
" It was with feelings of regret that I bade adieu to the Missis
sippi, whose company I had kept for seven days. I had sailed on
the bosom of a flood that was everywhere asserting its dominion
over the works of man, submerging alike the graves of a departed
race and the habitations of living men, and bearing down the puny
barriers that had been reared to arrest its progress. I had traced
its desolating march through dense forest shades, over well-tilled
meadows, and along busy streets, and had received an idea of
power — silent, majestic, irresistible — never before attained. Yet
with this power there was beauty, as when amid the lengthening
shadows of bluff and island, in the calm hour of setting day, I was
paddled across the flood in a little skiff, and laved my hands in the
ripple of the oarsman which alone disturbed its surface. The rude
worshipers of the Nile and the Ganges, in the adoration of their
monarch rivers, reveal a sentiment of the grand and beautiful,
which, alas, they know not how to follow up to its highest develop
ment in a spiritual and a personal God !
<? For days, too, I had sailed along the borders of mighty States,
the growing empires of the New World ; and above the sepulchral
remains of creations preparatory to our own, on the deep alluvium
which for thousands of years has been depositing over the rocky
graves of the mammalia and the Crustacea of by-gone ages, above
the tombs also of the human mound-builders of a modern era,
I had seen springing up, in full growth and vigor, the towns and
cities of that energetic and all-diffusive race that conceives itself
to be fulfilling the mission of man's exalted destiny. I had seen
everywhere the flood of emigration rolling like the Mississippi,
and, unchecked by the natural flood, rolling on over it, as the Mis
souri pours its red rushing tide across the bosom of the Father of
Waters. I was loth to leave a river that so expresses the powerful
and the beautiful, and that links together the almost infinite Past,
the eager Present, and the boundless Future.
" And, before I leave it, I will put in yet another plea for the
freights of sin and of living death that it bears evermore upon its
836 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
bosom. ' Sin and living death' on every boat that plies its waters,
on every raft that floats down with its current. An intelligent
English traveler makes this observation upon a class that he en
countered in a western tour :
" ' The reckless notions and habits of the vagrant pioneers of the
West, evinced as these are by the practice of gambling, drinking,
and licentiousness, by an habitual disregard of the Sabbath, and
by more constant swearing than I ever heard anywhere else, fear
fully disfigure that great valley of the Mississippi, destined inevit
ably, at no distant day, to be the preponderating section of the en
tire Union.'
" What is here affirmed of a class of pioneers is fearfully true of
portions of the boatmen and raftsmen of the Mississippi. I took
occasion to mingle with these men for the sake of studying their
character and mode of life, and of ascertaining if there was any
feasible way of doing them good. The deck hands on the steam
boats are commonly Irish or Americans of the lowest class, inter
spersed with negroes. Their dress and fare are coarse, their sleep
ing bunks miserably furnished, and their whole physical condition
is exceedingly uncomfortable. As many of these boats consume
several days in their regular trips, in the course of which they
often stop for wood, and at every town land or take in freight, they
usually have two sets of hands, who work and rest alternately at
intervals of four hours. The resting intervals are spent in sleep
ing, lounging, smoking, drinking, swearing, and carousing, and the
habits of profaneness and intemperance grow fearfully upon men
who have no companions out of this depraved circle, and no means
of excitement but the bottle and the vulgar story or song. On
some boats, too, they are treated as mere brutes.
" Since few boats on the Mississippi lie by upon the Sabbath,
these hands have no opportunity of attending public worship or of
coming under any religious influence. They are deprived, too, in a
great measure of the humanizing influence of the family. I never
saw"men who seemed so hardened ; never before had I heard or even
conceived of such profaneness as fell from their lips. They do not
open their mouths without an oath — and such oaths ! — they are the
vomiting forth of the Abyss. These men seemed to be impervious
to any religious impression. Death by drowning, or by cholera, is
a frequent occurrence on the Mississippi — two such cases came un
der my immediate knowledge — yet death produces no solemnity in
guch minds. I saw no point at which they could be successfully
approached. But shall they be utterly abandoned ? Is there no
337
way of reaching them ? Might not missionaries travel with these
boats continually with a view to the religious benefit of their
crews ? For such a work men of peculiar tact are needed, but,
doubtless, the men can be found if the churches will employ them
in the work.
The lumbermen who in the spring of the year crowd the Missis
sippi with their rafts are mostly Americans, rough, hardy men, who
spend the winter in the pine regions- of Wisconsin and the upper
Mississippi, and in the spring float down the product of their win
ter's toil to the St. Louis market. They then return to the
' pinery' by steamboat and stage, with plenty of money, and ripe
for all manner of vicious indulgence. Some of them are men of
intelligence, and have had their education in the Common-schools
and Sabbath-schools at the East ; such a one I fell in with, but
found him ready to drink, swear, and gamble, like the rest, though
with a general air of restraint. These men have much of the free
and easy air of sailors ; they lead a lawless, plundering life, for the
lumber they cut is not their own, but felled from Government
lands, and many were the curses and threats heaped upon the
United States Marshal, whose advent to the pinery was expected ;
at times they work hard, and again they are idle and listless, and
while away time in games of chance ; they encounter hardships
and drink ' for health ;' their money comes in the lump and melts
rapidly away under the warm impulses of sensual passion ; they
are reckless and improvident. Now cannot these men be reached ?
They could be if some Nelson could be found to go to their encamp
ments. Those to whom I suggested it, entertained favorably the
idea of a circulating library of historical and other useful books,
and I doubt not some would welcome the discreet and intelligent
missionary. Let Christians remember these men.
" GALENA. — By an unfortunate transposition of letters Galena
is located on the maps upon Fever, instead of Fevre, river (the
latter being a proper name), and thus has gone forth a rumor of
the unhealthiness of the place. The river on whose rocky shelf
this town is built, is here more properly an arm of the Mississippi
setting up between lofty bluffs, around whose base it winds with
most picturesque effect. The town lies very much like Norwich,
Conn. ; the streets rise one above another, and the communication
between them is by nights of steps, so that the houses on the higher
streets are perched like an eagle's eyrie, overlooking the rest and
commanding an extensive prospect. No sooner do you step on
shore from the steamer than you see the signs of thrift and enter-
29
338 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
prise, and in the huge piles of pig lead you see also the great
resource and stimulus of all this in the mines in which the region
here abounds. The town wears a pleasant, lively air, and as it
suns itself on a bright morning among the verdant hills, looks alto
gether coquettish. Pleasant churches meet the eye on the first
ledge or steppe above the levee, and private residences wearing
the aspect of neatness and comfort, and sometimes of luxury —
which the munificent hospitality of their inmates enabled me to
verify — adorn each successive hight.
"In the number of its gambling and drinking saloons Galena
betrays the influence of a foreign mining population ; yet after all
these are not so numerous as at first they appear to a stranger, who
meets them all at once along the river front by which he enters
the city. The dominant influences in the place are moral and even
religious. In view of the rapid growth and the prospective in
crease of Galena, it is gratifying to find the ground so well occu
pied by active and efficient churches and an able ministry. Ga
lena is already straitened between its hills, and land on the
main business street begins to command New York prices per foot.
When the Central Railroad shall have its terminus there, its busi
ness and its population must increase five-fold ; then, perhaps, the
lower town will be abandoned, as a place of residence, and
churches and dwellings will adjourn en masse to the beautiful
table-land on the summit of the bluff.
" From Galena I rode out to the Sinsinawa mound — the site of
the Roman Catholic College, the corner-stone of which was laid
with so much pomp and noise (including that of cannon), on a cer
tain memorable Sabbath, a few years ago. This mound is situated
some twelve miles northwest of Galena, toward the Mississippi, and
offers a most beautiful site for a college, or any other public insti
tution, for which a healthful location and an extensive and varied
rural prospect are desirable. I found here a most indifferent
building, four stories high, quite roughly finished, and having
hardly a pupil within its walls. The reason of this destitution is
that Protestant enterprise has established upon the neighboring
mound, at Plattville, that rivals this in beauty, a Seminary of the
highest order, which absorbs the youth of the country.
" Eastward from Galena, by stage, one crosses those immense
prairies of northern Illinois, which have been aptly compared to
seas — where the horizon of many miles circumference, shuts down
upon a dead plain, whose surface is not disturbed by one undula
tion or shadowed by a single tree. You have a feeling of desola-
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 339
tion in the midst even of harvests that might feed the world. This
region is destined to sustain an immense population, when the
building of railroads and the liquidation of State debts shall invite
the emigrant to settle on its fertile plains. And all the resources
of northern Illinois must be poured into the lap of New York. The
State is nearly eight times as large as Massachusetts, and contain
ing 35,459,200 acres of rich black loam. But oh, the mud, deep,
black, adhesive, which that same soil makes under rain ! through
what sloughs we waded, (slews they call them ; think of John
Bunyan's slew of despond !) sometimes knee deep, in the darkness
of the night, as we slowly dragged on toward the Rock River coun
try. That country, the Paradise of Wisconsin, I shall best de
scribe, as it struck me on coming to it from the eastward some
years ago.
" Immediately on leaving Milwaukee, you pass through a belt
of woodland, and in a few hours reach the far-famed oak openings,
though these are already disappearing before the march of civil
ization, which keeps out the autumnal fires. Picture to yourself
a park laid out with royal magnificence, as verdant as the most
carefully kept inclosure, covering hundreds and thousands of
acres, extending for miles around you, planted with sturdy oaks
with the order of a well-set orchard, having no underbrush to in
tercept your progress, and no fences to prohibit you from trespass,
where you can walk or ride in almost any direction over the rich
green sward, and where the farmer can drive his plow among the
trees almost without clearing, and ' break up' a most luxuriant
soil ; and after reveling amid these works of nature so far surpass
ing those of art, imagine that you break forth upon an extended
prairie, a plain, or gently undulating surface, bright with the
ever varying hues of flowers, upon which for miles you do not see
a tree, or fence, or stone, but where the luxuriant grass invites
the cattle to the marshes on its border, while flocks of sheep are
cropping the sweet herbage in its center — where the ripening
wheat over hundreds of acres waves its golden locks in pledge of a
nation's sustenance, the unaided soil often yielding 25 or 30
bushels to the acre, with but half the labor of cultivation in New
England ; and having traversed such a field, as I did, twelve miles
broad, strike a sparkling river, whose banks will soon vie in fer
tility, and even in neat and thriving villages, with those of the
Connecticut, and beyond which prairie and opening still stretch
onward to the Father of Waters ; this will give you a picture of a
State as rich and fair as the sun visits in all the West,
340 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
** The scenery of the Rock river corresponds more nearly with
that of Massachusetts and Western New York than any other in
Hhe Western country. The long-extended bluffs, of various hight,
resemble the hilly banks of a New England stream, the bottom of
the river is pebbly and the water clear and bright, and the banks
are well covered with groves. And then you have what New
England nowhere affords, the prairie, the beautiful prairie, not so
vast as to be overpoweringly dull and tame, but large enough to
be novel and wonderful to eastern eyes. The difference between
the make of Wisconsin and Illinois is given, in the fact that in
Wisconsin the prairies are named, and in Illinois the groves.
" In the southern border of Wisconsin, just across the line of
Illinois, on the bank of the Rock river, stands BEL.OIT, a town of
some fifteen hundred inhabitants [nearer three thousand] , and the
seat of a College which is sustained in part by the College Society.
I hardly knew the town when I alighted from the stage, so greatly
has it changed in six years. It spreads along both sides of the
river, and is laid out with much taste. When I was here in 1845,
I went up on the highest bluff upon the eastern bank to examine
some Indian mounds and to enjoy the view of the rolling prairie
stretching southward into Illinois. This bluff was then talked of
as a site for a college, and Rev. Mr. Squier, of Geneva, had just
been on the ground and had made liberal proposals for the endow
ment of such an institution. (Thanks to the kind nursing of that
gentleman during that trip, I am now alive to write this letter,
having greeted him as a professor in his adopted College.) Now
upon that same bluff, sheltered by its lofty grove, and beside the
undisturbed mounds of other days, stands a College edifice of more
imposing architecture and of better adaptation to the wants of
such an institution than any college building I have seen in the
West. This edifice, substantially built of brick, is about a hun
dred feet long by forty in depth, four stories high, with lofty ceil
ings, spacious and well ventilated rooms for recitations and lec
tures, and several good dormitories in the fourth story. This is
intended for the main college building, to be hereafter flanked
with corresponding wings. It was erected by the citizens of Be-
loit at a cost of about $ 12,000.
" Beloit College is already in vigorous operation. The decorum
of the students, and the general order of the institution are worthy
of all praise.
" The ride from Beloit to Janesville in a buggy by night, along
the lately flooded bank of the river, through deep sloughs and
THOMPSON'S LETTERS. 841
over bridgeless creeks, was somewhat perilous, and on reaching
Janesville, a stage-driver congratulated us that we had got safely
through a ditch that he avoided by day by a circuit of three miles !
One collocation of incidents interested me greatly. Soon after
leaving Beloit at sunset, we came upon an encampment of emi
grant wagons near some Indian mounds ; there were the tombs of
the old savage occupants of this rich soil, there were the eager
travelers from the Old World coming to find a home in the New,
there stretched the telegraph .wire, the symbol of a far-reaching
civilization, and yonder loomed the college which should mould
these raw materials and shape them into a cultivated religious
society.
" JANESVILLE is already a town of considerable trade, one of
those inland river towns that every State requires as a central
depot. It has now one of the best hotels in the State and many
fine stores. The ride from Janesville through Rock, Wai worth,
and Milwaukee counties, though it exhibited the riches of the
country — ' as good land as ever lay out doors' — was any thing but
comfortable to a spare body already jolted by two days' staging.
That Troy marsh and the corduroy make one ache for the comple
tion of plankroads.
" Of MILWAUKEE what shall I say, now that it is brought within
three days of us and is familiar to every one ; a city that in ten years
has increased from 1,700 to 20,000, and whose growth as the great
lake outlet of Wisconsin has only begun. It is by one-half a Ger
man city, with German signs, German churches, German concerts,
German gardens, every thing German. Indeed the German lan
guage is almost a sine qua non for a business or professional man.
The city lies beautifully upon a half-moon harbor of Lake Mich
igan, and encompasses the Milwaukee and Menomenee rivers. Its
peculiar cream-colored brick gives to its buildings a very unique
and lively appearance. I brought away a brick as a specimen,
being careful to carry it in my trunk and not in my ' hat.'
" Determined to avoid the inconveniences of the overland route
by Michigan, we took passage ill the Hudson, around the lakes,
and were favored with three days of calm and beautiful weather.
Gorgeous was the setting and rising of the sun in the clear lati
tude of Mackinaw and in the broad bosom of Lake Michigan.
The boat was crowded to excess, so that the tables had to be set
three or four times for each meal, and many had no place to lay
their heads. But captain, steward, waiters, all were polite and
attentive, doing their utmost to relieve the crowd. The scramble
342 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
for meals was quite a contrast to what Lord Morpeth describes as
a usual characteristic of American dinners :
" ' Who that has seen, can ever forget the slow and melancholy
silence of the couples who walk arm-in-arm to the tables of the
great hotels, or of the unsocial groups who gather around the
greasy meals of the steamboats, lap up the five minutes' meal,
come like shadows, so depart ?' There was no slow and melan
choly silence in that three days' voyage ; but the constant din and
strife of hungry men, women, and children.
" A pleasant Sabbath at Cleveland, a calm moonlight sail to
Dunkirk, a day of grateful repose at Binghamton, and we were
once more amid the din and heat and strifes and labors of New
York. T."
Repeatedly, in this book, are the vast magnificent Prai
ries described, by different pens, so universally do they
elicit the enthusiastic admiration of all who behold them.
And the " gorgeous rising and setting of the sun at Mack
inaw," are also objects of delighted wonder to all who
witness them.
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS.
343
NEWSPAPERS IN THE WEST.
THE following is a list of the Newspapers published in
the States treated of in this book, so far as I have been
able to obtain them ; the statement is principally obtained
from the Census Reports to the General Government, and
presents, probably, all papers that were in existence when
the Census was taken by the Marshal. I have added to
the list some papers which were recently started, within
my own knowledge, not reported in the official list :
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS IN WISCONSIN.
NAME OF PAPER. C
Green Bay Advocate, wky..
River Times,
Patriot,
Wisconsin Express,
do. Statesman,
do. Argus,
do. Democrat,
Education Journal, mthy,
Journal, wky.,
Fountain City,
Union,
Herald,
Republican,
State Register,
Chronicle,
Kenosha Democrat,
do. Telegraph,
do. American,
ARACTER.
TOWN.
COUNTY.
Dem.,
Green Bay,
Brown.
do.
Fort Winnebago,
Columbia .
Neutl.,
Prairie du Chien,
Crawford.
Whig,
Madison,
Dane.
do.
do.
do.
Dem.,
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Educa.
do.
do.
Dem.,
Fon du Lac,
Fon du Lac.
do.
do.
do.
Lite'y,
Monroe,
Green.
Whig,
Lancaster,
Grant.
Dem.,
Potosi,
do.
do.
Watertown,
Jefferson.
Whig,
do.
do.
Dem.,
Kenosha,
Kenosha.
F. Soil,
do.
do.
Whig,
do.
do.
344
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
NAME OF PAPER. CHARACTKB.
TOWN.
COUNTY.
Daily Wisconsin,
Dem.,
Milwaukee,
Milwaukee.
Tri-Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Daily Sentinel,
Whig,
do.
do.
Tri-Weekly do.
do
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Free Democrat,
F. Soil,
do.
do.
Tri-Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Wisconsin Banner,
Dem.,
do.
do
Tri-Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Taglicher Volksfreund, daily
, do.
do.
do.
do. do. wky.
, do.
do.
do.
Commercial Advertiser, daily
, do.
do.
do.
do. do. tri-wky.
, do.
do.
do.
do. do. wky.
, do.
do.
do.
Daily Journal,
Whig,
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Commercial Advertiser,
Whig,
Racine,
Racine.
Racine Advocate,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Old Oaken Bucket,
Temp.,
do.
do.
Democraten,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Wisconsin Farmer, mthy.,
Ag'l,
do.
do.
Beloit Journal, wky. ,
Whig,
Beloit,
Rock.
Janesville Gazette,
do.
Janesville,
do.
County Badger,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Standard,
Whig,
Prarie du Sac,
Sauk.
Mercury,
do.
Sheboygan,
Sheboygan.
Democrat,
Dem.,
do.
do.
News,
do.
do.
do.
St. Croix Inquirer,
Whig,
Willow River,
St. Croix.
Blade,
Dem.,
Ozaukee,
Washing'n.
Democrat,
do.
Oshkosh,
AVinnebago.
Telegraph,
Whig,
do.
do.
Tribune,
do.
Mineral Point,
Iowa.
Western Star,
F. Soil
, Elkhorn,
Walworth.
Democrat,
Dem.,
Waukesha,
Waukesha.
In Lafayette, Manitowoc, Richland, Adams, and Portage coun
ties, there are weekly NeAvspapers published, the names of which
are not known to me.
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS.
345
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS IN ILLINOIS.
NAME OF PAPER. CHARACTER. TOWN.
COUNTY.
Quincy Whig, wky.,
Whig, Quincy,
Adams.
Wochenblatt,
Dem., do.
do.
People's Journal, daily,
Indep. , do.
do.
do. do. wky. ,
do. do.
do.
Herald and Argus,
Dem., do.
do.
Western Legal Obs., mthy.,
Legal, do.
do.
do. Temp. Magazine,
Temp., do.
do.
Cairo Delta, wky.,
Neut., Cairo,
Alexander.
Greenville Journal,
Fam'y, Greenville,
Bond.
West'n Fountain, semi-mthy . ,Temp. , do.
do.
do. Evangelist, mthy.,
Bapt., Rockwell,
do.
Primitive Preacher, quart'y
, do. do.
do.
Prairie Democrat, wky.,
Dem.,
Brown.
Bureau Advocate,
F. Soil, Princeton,
Bureau.
Gazette,
Whig, Beardstown,
Cass.
Tribune,
do. Mt. Carroll,
Carroll.
State Democrat,
Dem., Marshall,
Clarke.
Illinois Globe,
do. Charleston,
Coles.
Courier,
Whig, do.
do.
Daily Democrat,
Dem., Chicago,
Cook.
Tri-Weekly do.
do. do.
do.
Weekly do.
do. do.
do.
Daily Tribune,
F. Soil, do.
do.
Weekly do.
do. do.
do.
Gem of the Prairie,
Lite'y, do.
do.
Daily Journal,
Whig, do.
do.
Tri-Weekly do.
do. do.
do.
Weekly do.
do. do.
do.
Daily Com. Advertiser.
do. do.
do.
Weekly do. do.
do. do.
do.
Daily Argus.
Dem., do.
do.
Weekly do.
do. "" do.
do.
Western Citizen, wky.,
Indep., do.
do.
Prairie Herald,
Pres., do.
do.
Watchman of the Prairie,
Bapt., do.
do.
New Covenant,
Univ., do.
do.
Eclectic Review, mthy.,
Educa., do
do.
Prairie Farmer, mthy.,
Agric., do.
do.
Commercial Register, wky.,
Adv., do.
do.
346
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
NAME OF PAPER. CHA
Medical Journal, semi-mthy.
Homoeopathic Jour. mthy. ,
Norwegian Paper, wky.,
German Paper,
Du Page Recorder,
Plaindealer,
Prairie Beacon,
Fayette Yeoman,
Standard,
Register,
Republican,
Illinois Advocate,
Grundy Yeoman,
Gazette, .
County Banner,
Warsaw Signal,
Hancock Patriot,
Spectator,
Prairie State,
N. W. Gazette, daily,
Weekly and Tri-Weekly do.
Jeffersonian, daily,
Weekly do.
County Democrat,
Aurora Beacon,
Western Mercury,
Journal, wky.,
News-Letter,
N. W. Gazetteer,
Chronicle,
Gazette,
Constitutionalist,
Free Trader,
La Salle Co. Democrat,
Telegraph,
Banner,
Madison Record,
Telegraph and Review,
Illinois Gazette,
Herald,
Metropolitan,
ARACTER.
TOWN.
COUNTY.
.,Med.,
Chicago,
Cook.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Dem.,
Naperville,
Du Page.
do.
do.
do.
Whig,
Paris,
Edgar.
Vandalia,
Fayette.
Dem.,
Benton,
Franklin.
Neut.,
Lewiston,
Fulton.
Whig,
do.
do.
Dem.,
Shawueetown,
Gallatin.
Whig,
Morris,
Grundy.
do.
Carrollton,
Greene.
Dem.,
do.
do.
Whig,
Warsaw,
Hancock.
Dem.,
Carthage,
do.
Lite'y,
Oquawka,
Henderson.
do.
Jerseyville,
Jersey.
Whig,
Galena,
Jo Daviess.
do.
do.
do.
Dem.,
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
St. Charles,
Kane.
Indep.,
Aurora,
do.
do.
Geneva,
do.
Neut.,
Knoxville,
Knox.
do.
Galesburg,
do,
do.
do.
do.
Dem.,
Waukegan,
Lake.
Whig,
do.
do.
do.
Ottawa,
La Salle.
Dem.,
do
do.
do.
Peru
do.
Whig,
La Salle,
do.
do,
Lawrenceville,
Lawrence.
Neut.,
Edwardsville,
Madison.
Whig,
Alton,
do.
do.
Lacon,
Marshall.
Dem.,
do.
do.
do.
Metropolis City,
Massac.
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS.
847
NAME OF PAPER.
CHARACTER. TOWN.
COUNTY.
Metropolis Register,
Whig,
Metropolis City,
Massac.
Western Whig,
do.
Bloomington,
McLean.
Patriot,
do.
Waterloo,
Monroe.
Yeoman Prairie Land,
do.
Millersburg,
Mercer.
Morgan Journal,
do.
Jacksonville,
Morgan.
do. do. tri-wky.,
do.
do.
do.
Gazette, wky.,
do.
Mount Morris,
Ogle.
Democratic Press,
Dem.,
Peoria,
Peoria.
Republican,
Whig,
do.
do.
Peoria Motto, mtliy.,
Relig.,
do.
do.
Free Press, wky.,
Whig,
Pittsfield,
Pike.
The Union,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Spartan Freeman,
F. Soil,
Sparta,
Randolph.
do. Register,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Chester Herald,
Neut. ,
Chester,
do.
Republican,
Dem. ,
Olney,
Richland.
Advertiser,
Whig.,
Rock Island,
R. Island.
Daily Journal,
do.
Springfield,
Sangamon.
Tri-Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
Daily State Register,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Weekly do.
do.
do.
do.
State Organ, wky.,
Temp.,
do.
do.
Liberia Advocate, mthy.,
Col.,
do.
do.
Observer, wky.,
Dem.,
Naples,
Scott.
Prairie Telegraph,
Neut.,
Rushville,
Schuyler.
Advocate,
Dem ,
Belleville,
St. Clair.
Zeitung,
do.
do.
do.
Illinois Republican,
Whig,
do.
do.
Illinois Advocate,
M. Ep.,
Lebanon,
do.
Freeport Journal,
Whig,
Freeport,
Stephenson.
Prairie Democrat,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Tazewell Mirror,
Whig,
Pekin,
Tazewell.
Illinois Reveille,
Dem.,
do.
do.
do. Herald,
do.
Danville,
Vermillion.
do. Citizen,
Whig,
do.
do.
Gazette,
Dem.,
Jonesboro',
Union.
Register,
Whig,
Mount Carmel,
Wabash.
Monmouth Atlas,
Indep.,
Monmouth,
Warren.
Telegraph,
F. Soil,
Lockport,
Will.
Signal,
Dem.,
Joliet,
do.
348
WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
NAME OF PAPER.
CHARACTER.
COUNTY,
True Democrat, Whig, Joliet, Will.
Forum, do. Rockford, Winnebago.
The above list does not embrace all the Papers in the State, as
the names of some of them have not been obtained.
PAPERS AND PERIODICALS IN IOWA
NAME OF PAPER.
CHARACTER. TOWN.
COUNTY.
Tipton Times, wky.,
Lite'y,
Tipton,
Cedar.
Hawkeye,
Whig,
Burlington,
Des Moines.
State Register,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Telegraph,
do.
do.
do.
do. tri-wkly . ,
do.
do.
do.
Miners' Express, wky.,
do.
Dubuque,
Dubuque
Tribune,
Whig,
do.
do.
Telegraph,
do.
do.
do.
Norwesliche Dem.,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Iowa Observer,
Whig,
Mount Pleasant,
Henry.
True Democrat,
F. Soil,
do.
do.
Western Evangelist, mthy,
, Relig.,
do.
do.
do. Democrat, wky.,
Dem.,
Andrew,
Jackson.
Iowa Sentinel,
do.
Fairfield,
Jefferson.
Fairfield Ledger,
Whig,
do.
do.
Iowa Republican,
do.
Iowa City,
Johnson.
Capital Reporter,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Iowa Statesman,
Fort Madison,
Lee.
Keokuk Despatch,
Dem.,
Keokuk,
do.
Whig and Register,
Whig,
do.
do.
Louisa County Times,
Indep. ,
Wapello,
Louisa.
Herald, wky.,
Whig,
Oskaloosa,
Mahaska.
Democratic Inquirer,
Dem.,
Muscatine,
Muscatine.
Muscatine Journal,
Whig,
do.
do.
Iowa Star,
Dem.,
Des Moines,
Polk.
Des Moines Gazette,
Whig,
do.
do.
Frontier Guardian,
do.
Kanesville,
Pottawat'e.
Gazette,
do.
Davenport,
Scott.
Banner,
Dem.,
do.
do.
Jeffersonian,
do.
Keosauque,
Van Bur en.
Des Moines Republican,
do.
Ottumwa,
Wapello.
do. Courier,
Whig,
do.
do.
CONCLUSION. 349
CONCLUSION.
THUS have I given a general portraiture of the natural
features, scenery, waters, prairies, forests, mounds, soil,
etc., with a brief history of the country ; with an account
of the growth, prospects, resources, internal improvements,
the counties, towns and cities, the population, education,
business, etc. of the States embraced in the work. And if
it shall prove tolerably satisfactory to readers, or be of
service to them, in the light for which it is intended, the
writer will have gained his object.
The achievements are numerous, in this country, of art
and industry over the great and impassable impediments
to navigation and transit, which in many locations the
grand, bold features of nature interpose ; and among them
are, the two passages for boats and vessels from Lake
Ontario to Lake Erie, an elevation of between one and
two hundred feet, overcome by means of lift-locks in the
Erie Canal at Lockport, on the south of Niagara river, and
the Welland Canal on the north; the span of that great
river by a Wire Bridge ; the passage of the fall in the
Ohio river by means of a Canal at Louisville, Kentucky ;
and the passage between Lake Michigan and the Missis
sippi river, by Canal and locks.
And then the great works of a similar character which are
contemplated and underway, are — the Canal at Sault Ste.
Marie's, for passing from Lake Huron to Lake Superior,
to be laid before Congress this winter, and highly deserv
ing its attention. The improvement, by Canals and
otherwise, of the navigation between Green Bay and the
30
350 WESTERN PORTRAITURE.
Wisconsin river, designed to connect the Great Lakes
and the Mississippi at the north, as the Illinois Canal does
farther South.
In regard to this work, Governor DOTY, of Wisconsin,
writes me as follows :
" Contracts are let for the improvement of all of the
rapids between Green Bay and this place (Menasha) ;
and the lands granted by the United States to the State
of Wisconsin are deemed sufficient to complete the work.
Two dams and locks are finished, which give Steamboat
navigation to Kaukauna, twenty miles. From thence a
Plankroad has been constructed ten miles to this place,
which is situated at the outlet of Winnebago Lake. From
this town a line of Steamboats ply around Winnebago
Lake, and up Neenah (or Fox) and Wolf rivers, say one
hundred miles each. The first is ascended to Wauonah
(or Wisconsin Portage), where the Canal and lock are
completed, by which they can pass into the Wisconsin
river. This stream is now navigable for boats of 150
tons ; but being filled with sand bars, it is to be improved
by dredging. It is now, however, as good a stream to
navigate as the Upper Mississippi. The whole work is
expected to be finished in two years or less ; but the route
for travel or freight is now an excellent one, and the
cheapest between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi in
the north.
" Respectfully, yours,
"JAMES DUANE DOTY."
Individuals who are well acquainted with the States
and regions named, or have traveled much through them,
may not meet with much in this book which they do not
already know; still if their visits have not been recent,
the progress and improvements of the Great West must
have greatly outstripped their knowledge.
CONCLUSION. 351
The list of newspapers of the different State's appended
to this work will, doubtless, be found serviceable both to
emigrants and business men at the East for reference.
Persons who contemplate visiting the West for loca
tion, business, or pleasure, may find this volume useful to
them ; and it is therefore thrown out to the public, with a
hope that it may not prove ' a blind guide to the blind.'
CORRECTION. — Through a mistake of some kind the descrip
tion of Lawrence County has become mixed up with that of
La Salle County, on page 260, which confuses the matter, without
this explanation.
CFTHE
.TY
THE END.
1
CATALOGUE
OF
MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC,,
PUBLISHED BY
J. H. CfOLTON,
NO. 86 CEDAR-STREET, NEW YORK.
Illustrated and Embellished Steel-Plate
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On Mercator's Projection, exhibiting the recent Arctic
and Antarctic Discoveries and Explorations, &c. <fcc.
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Price, mounted, $10 00.
This splendid and highly-finished map is the largest and most accurate
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graphical knowledge, and shows at one view, not only the world as it
now is, in all its natural and political relations, but also the progress of
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ments of Europe, especially those of France and England, whose rich
stores of geographical works have elicited much, that until the present
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its predecessors, and is as ornamental as useful. It is beautifully colored,
and mounted in the handsomest style.
MAP OF THE WORLD,
On Mei'cator's Projection, exhibiting the recent Arctic
and Antarctic Discoveries and Explorations, &c. &c.
2 sheets. Size, 44 by 36 inches.
Price, mounted, $3 00.
This work is reduced from the large map, and contains all the more
important features of that publication. It has been constructed with
especial reference to commercial utility ; the ports, lines of travel, inte
rior trading towns and posts, &c., being accurately laid down. An im
portant feature in this map is the transposition of the continents so as to
give America a central position, and exhibit the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans in their entirety. The map is engraved on steel, highly embel
lished, and mounted in the best style. As a medium sized map, it con
tains much more than the usual amount of information.
2 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.,
MAP OF THE WORLD,
On Mercator's projection, <fcc. 1 sheet. Size, 28 by 22
inches. Price, mounted, $1 50.
This is a beautifully got up map, and, from the closeness of its infor
mation, contains as much as the generality of maps twice its size. It is
well adapted for the use of those who do not require the detail of
topography, which is the peculiar feature in the larger maps. As a
companion to the student of general history it is, perhaps, prefer
able to any other, as it is compact and easy of reference. The pro
gress of discovery, from the times of Columbus to the present day, is
fully exhibited ; and especial care has been taken to show distinctly the
recent explorations in the Arctic and Antarctic regions.
MISSIONARY MAP OF THE WORLD,
On a hemispherical projection, each hemisphere being
six feet in diameter, and both printed on one piece of
cloth at one impression. Size, 160 by 80 inches.
Price, $10 00.
This map presents to the eye, at one view, the moral and religious
condition of the world, and the efforts that are now making for its evan
gelization. It is so colored, that all the principal religions of the world,
with the countries in which they prevail, and their relation, position,
and extent are distinguished at once, together with the principal stations
of the various missionary societies in our own and other countries. It
is so finished, being on cloth, that it may be easily folded and conveyed
from place to place, and suspended in any large room. It is especially
recommended for the lecture-room, Sunday-school, &c., and should be
possessed by every congregation.
MAP OF NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA,
With an enlarged plan of the Isthmus of Panama, show
ing the line of the railroad from Chagres to Panama ;
also tables of distances from the principal ports of the
United States to all parts of the world, &c. 1 sheet.
Size, 32 by 25 inches. Price, mounted, $1 50.
MAP OF NORTH AMERICA,
Compiled from the latest authorities. 1 sheet. Size,
29 by 26 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 25 ; in cases, $0 75.
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON
TOPOGRAPHICAL MAP OF THE WEST INDIES,
With the adjacent coasts : compiled from the latest au
thorities. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50 ; in cases, $0 75.
MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA,
Carefully compiled from the latest maps and charts and
other geographical publications. 2 sheets. Size, 44
by 31 inches. Price, mounted, $4 00.
This is the largest and best map of South America ever issued in this
country, and the only one available for commercial purposes. It is also
an excellent school map.
MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA,
Compiled from the latest authorities, and accompanied
with statistical tables of the area, population, &c., of
the several states. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50.
MAP OF EUROPE,
Carefully compiled from the latest maps and charts,
and other geographical publications. 4 sheets. Size,
58 by 44 inches. Price, mounted, $5 00.
The best map of Europe extant, exhibiting the topography and polit
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map for schools as well as for the merchant's office.
MAP OF EUROPE,
Compiled from the latest authorities, &c., with statis
tical tables exhibiting the area, population, form of
government, religion, &c., of each state. 1 sheet.
Size, 32 by 25 inches. Price, mounted, §1 50.
MAP OF ASIA,
Carefully compiled from the latest maps and charts
and other geographical publications. 4 sheets. Size
58 by 44 inches. Price, mounted, §15 00
This map is the largest and most accurate ever issued in America
and contains all the most recent determinations in British India, &.c
MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS. ETC.,
It is indispensably necessary to merchants trading with China, India,
&c., and must be especially valuable at the present time, when our con
nection with those countries is daily becoming more intimate. Nor i»
it less valuable for seminaries of learning.
MAP OF ASIA,
Compiled from the most recent authorities, together
with statistical tables of the area, population, &c., of
each state. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50.
MAP OF AFRICA,
Carefully compiled from the latest maps and charts,
and other geographical publications. 4 sheets. Size,
58 by 44 inches. Price, mounted, $5 00.
The largest and most accurate map of Africa ever published in the
United States. It exhibits the most recent discoveries of travellers —
the new political divisions on the north and west coasts and in South
ern Africa, &c., &c. As an office or school map it has no superior.
MAP OF AFRICA,
Compiled from the latest authorities, and accompanied
with statistical tables of the area, population, &c., of
each state. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50.
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
THE BRITISH PROVINCES, MEXICO, AND THE WEST INDIES,
Showing the country from the Atlantic to the Pacific
ocean. 4 sheets. Size, 62 by 55 inches.
Price, $5 00.
Extraordinary exertions have been employed to make this map perfect
ly reliable and authentic in all respects. It is the only large map that ex
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handsomely mounted, it forms not only a useful, but highly ornamental
addition to the office, library, or hall. All the railroads, canals, and
post-roads, with distances from place to place, are accurately laid down.
To make the map more generally useful, the publisher has appended to
it a mop of Central America and the Isthmus of Panama, and also a
map of North and South America conjointly. It deserves to take prece
dence of all maps heretofore published in this country.
PUBLISHED BY J. II. COLTON. 5
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
THE BRITISH PROVINCES, MEXICO, THE WEST INDIES, AND
CENTRAL AMERICA, WITH PARTS OF NEW
GRENADA AND VENEZUELA,
Exhibiting the country from the Atlantic to the Pacific,
and from 50° N. lat. to the Isthmus of Panama and
the Oronoco river. 2 sheets. Size, 45 by 36 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 50 ; in cases, $1 50.
The vast extent of country embraced in this map, and the importance
of the territories portrayed, render it one of the most use-fid to the mer
chant and all others connected with or interested in the onward pro
gress of the United States. It is peculiarly adapted to the present times,
showing, as it does, the whole sphere of American steam navigation on
both sides of the continent, and giving the best delineations extant of
our new territories on the Pacific. All the railroads and canals are laid
down with accuracy. There is also appended to the map a diagram of
the Atlantic ocean, in reference to steam communication between Eu
rope and America ; and a detailed plan of the Isthmus of Panama, show
ing the proposed lines of inter-oceanic intercourse. The map is engraved
on steel and highly embellished.
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
THE BRITISH PROVINCES, WITH PARTS OF MEXICO AND
THE WEST INDIES.
4 sheets. Size, 48 by 33 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 00.
This is a good map of the settled portion of the United States, &c.,
and contains all the railroads, canals, and post-roads, &c., with the dis
tances from place to place.
MAP OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK,
WITH PARTS OF THE ADJACENT COUNTRY,
Embracing plans of the principal cities and some of the
larger villages. By David II. Burr. 6 sheets. Size,
60 by 50 inches. Price, mounted, $4 00.
This is the largest and best map of the state in the market, and ex
hibits accurately all the county and township lines; all internal im
provements, and the position of cities, villages, &c. A new edition,
eiuuracing all the alterations made by the state legislature, is issued as
uarly as possible after the close of each session annually, so that the
public may rely on its completeness at the date of issu^.
1*
6 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.
MAP OF THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND AND N, YORK,
With parts of Pennsylvania, New Jersey, the Canadas,
&c., showing the railroads, canals, and stage-roads,
with distances from place to place. 1 sheet. Size, 30
by 23 inches. Price, mounted, $1 25.
This is an exceedingly minute and correct map, having been compiled
with great care and a strict adherence to actual survey.
MAP OF THE COUNTRY 33 MILES AROUND
THE CITY OE NEW YORK.
Compiled from the maps of the United States' Coast
Survey and other authorities. 1 sheet. Size, 29 by
26 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50 ; in cases, $0 75.
MAP OF LONG ISLAND,
With the environs of the city of New York and the
southern part of Connecticut. By J. Calvin Smith.
4 sheets. Size, 60 by 42 inches.
Price, mounted, $3 00.
TRAVELER'S MAP OF LONG ISLAND,
Price, in cases, $0 38.
A neat pocket map for duck-shooters and other sportsmen.
MAP OF THE CITY AND COUNTY OF NEW YORK,
Brooklyn, Williamsburg, Jersey City, and the adjacent
waters. 3 sheets. Size, 56 by 32 inches.
Price, mounted, $3 00.
The Commissioners' Survey is the basis of this map. The improve
ments have been accurately laid down : and to make the work more
valuable, maps of the vicinity of New York, of the Hudson river, and
of the cities of Boston and Philadelphia, have been appended. No
exertion has been spared to keep the work up with the progresr of the
city and neighborhood. The exceedingly low price at which it it iaiued
ought to secure to it a large circulation.
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON, 7
MAP OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK,
Together with Brooklyn, Williamsburg, Greenpoint,
Jersey City, Hobokcn, <fcc., exhibiting a plan of the
port of New York, with its islands, sandbanks, rocks,
and the soundings in feet. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 26
inches. Price, mounted, $1 50; in cases, $0 75.
MAP OF THE CITY OF BROOKLYN,
As laid out by commissioners and confirmed by acts of
the Legislature of the State of New York, made from
actual survey— the farm-lines and names of original
owners being accurately drawn from authentic sources.
Containing also a map of the village of Williamsburg
and part of the city of New York, &c., &c. 2 sheets.
Size, 48 by 36 inches. Price, mounted, $4 00.
SECTIONAL MAP OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS,
Compiled from the United States' surveys. Also exhibit
ing the internal improvements; distances between
towns, villages, and post-offices; outlines of prairies,
woodlands, marshes, and lands donated by the Gene
ral Government for the purposes of internal improve
ments. By J. M. Peck, John Messenger, and A. J.
Mathewson. 2 sheets. Size, 43 by 32 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 50 ; in cases, $1 50.
The largest, most accurate, and only reliable map of Illinois extant.
MAP OF THE STATE OF INDIANA,
Compiled from the United States' Surveys by S. D.
King. Exhibiting the sections and fractional sections,
situation and boundaries of counties, the location of
cities, villages, and post-offices — canals, railroads, and
other internal improvements, &c., &c. 6 sheets. Size,
66 by 48 inches. Price, mounted, $6 00.
The only large and accurate map of Indiana ever issued, and one
that every land-owner and speculator will find indispensably necessary
to a full understanding of the topography of the country, and the im
provements which have been completed, and those which are now in
progress. It is handsomely engraved and embellished.
8 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.,
MAP OF THE STATE OF INDIANA,
Compiled from the United States' sm-veys. Exhibiting
the sections and fractional sections, situation and
boundaries of counties, the location of cities, villages,
and post-offices— canals, railroads, and other internal
improvements, &c., &c. 2 sheets. Size, 43 by 32
inches. (In progress.) Price, mounted, $3 00.
This map is a reduction from the large work, and contains equally
with that important publication all the essential features of the state
and the improvements that have been effected. It is suitable for an
office or house map.
A NEW MAP OF INDIANA,
Reduced from the large map. Exhibiting the boundaries
of counties ; township surveys ; location of cities, I owns,
villages, and post-offices — canals, railroads, and other
internal improvements, &c. 1 sheet. Size, 15 by 12
inches. (In progress.) Price, in cases, $0 38.
MAP OF MICHIGAN,
Map of the surveyed part of the State of Michigan. By
John Farmer. 1 sheet. Size, 35 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 00; in cases, Si 50.
MAP OF THE WESTERN STATES,
Viz. : Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa,
and Wisconsin, and the Territory of Minesota, show
ing the township lines of the United States' Surveys,
location of cities, towns, villages, post-hamlets—canals,
railroads, and stage-roads. By J. Calvin Smith. 1
sheet. Size, 2S by 24 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 25.
MAP OF FRANCE, BELGIUM,
4.n4 the adjacent countries. Compiled from the latest
authorities, and exhibiting the railroads and canals.
1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50.
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON. 9
STREAM OF TIME,
Or Chart of Universal History. From the original Ger
man of Strauss. Revised and continued by R. S.
Fisher, M. D. Size, 43 by 32 inches.
Price, mounted, §2 50.
An invaluable companion to every student of History.
THE FAMILY AND SCHOOL MONITOR,
An Educational Chart. By James Henry, Jr. 2 sheets.
Size, 42 by 32 inches. Price, mounted, $1 50.
In this chart, the fundamental maxims on Education -physical, morol,
and intellectual — are presented in such a manner as to fix the attention
and impress the memory. It cannot fail to be eminently useful ; in
deed, we believe the public will regard it as indispensable to every
family and school in our country.
PORTRAITS OF THE PRESIDENTS,
And Declaration of Independence. 1 sheet. Size, 42 by
31 inches. Price, mounted, $] 50
MEW MAP OF CENTRAL AMERICA,
From the most recent and authentic sources ; showing
the lines of communication between the Atlantic and
Pacific oceans. One sheet. Price, in case*) $0 50.
MOUNTAINS AND RIVERS,
A combined view of the principal mountains and rivers
in the world, with tables showing their relative heights
and length!. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, mounted, $1 50.
A CHART OF NATIONAL FLAGS,
Each represented in its appropriate colors. 1 sheet.
Size, 28 by 22 Inches. Price, mounted, $1 50.
10 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.,
AN ILLUSTRATED MAP OF HUMAN LIFE,
Deduced from passages of Sacred Writ. 1 sheet. Size,
25 by 20 inches. Price, mounted, §0 75.
MAP OF PALESTINE,
From the latest authorities t chiefly from the maps and
drawings of Robinson & Smith, with corrections and
additions furnished by the Rev. Dr. E. Robinson, and
with plans of Jerusalem and of the journey ings of the
Israelites. 4 sheets. Size, 80 by 62 inches.
Price, mounted, $6 00.
This large and elegant map of the Holy Land is intended for the Sun
day-school and Lecture-room. It is boldly executed, and lettered in
large type, which may be read at a great distance. Both the ancient
ami modern rnmes of placea are given.
MAP OF PALESTINE,
From the latest authorities: chiefly from the maps and
drawings of Robinson <Sc Smith, with corrections and
additions furnished by the Rev. Dr. E. Robinson. 2
(sheets. Size, 43 by 32 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 50.
This map is elegantly engraved on steel, and is peculiarly adapted to
family use and the use of theological students. It contains every place
noted on the larger map, the only difference being in the scale on which
it, is drawn. While the large map is well suited for a school or lecture-
room, this is more convenient for family use and private study. Plans
of Jerusalem and the vicinity of Jerusalem aro attached. The religious
and secular press throughout the country has expressed a decided
preference for this map of Professor Robinson over all others that have
ever been issued.
MAP OF EGYPT,
The Peninsula of Mount Sinai, Arabia Petraea, with the
southern part of Palestine. Compiled from the latest
authorities. Showing the jonrneyings of the children
of Israel from Egypt to the Holy Land. 1 sheet.
Size, 32 by 25 inches. Price, mounted, $1 50.
An excellent aid to the Bible student
PUBLISHED BY J. II. COL TON. 11
NEW TESTAMENT MAP,
A map of the countries mentioned in the New Testament
and of the travels of the Apostles — with ancient and mod
ern names, from the most authentic sources. 1 sheet.
Size, 32 by 25 inches. Price, mounted, $1 25.
" Its size, finish, distinctness, fullness, and accuracy, make it very ele
gant and useful. Sabbath-school teachers and private Christians, its
well as theological students, may esteem and use it with great advan
tage. * * * I own and value'." Samuel ff. Cox, D. D.
" On a scale neither too large to be unwieldy, nor yet too small to be
accurate, it presents at a single view, with great distinctness, the scenes
of the striking events of the New Testament, and cannot fail to give to
thoss events a greater clearness, and by presenting so plainly their lo
calities to throw over them new interest. ***** it seems to
have been drawn in accordance with the best authorities."
Erskine Mason, D. D.
"Valuable for accuracy, beauty, and cheapness. Having both the
ancient and modern names of places, and being of portable size, il
would appear happily adapted for the use of Sabbath-school teachers."
William R. Williams, D. D.
"I have been much pleased with the apparent accuracy, and tho
beautiful execution of a map of the countries mentioned in the New
Testament, published by Mr. Colton, and think it adapted to be useful."
Stephen H. Tyng, D. 1).
GUIDE-BOOK THROUGH THE UNITED STATES^ &c,
Travelers' and Tourists' Ghiide-Book through the United
States of America and the Canadas. Containing the
routes and distances on all the great lines of travel by
railroads, canals, stage-roads, and steamboats, togeth
er with descriptions of the several states, and the
principal cities, towns, and villages, in each— accom
panied with a large and accurate map.
Pi-ice, $1 25.
ROUTE-BOOK THROUGH THE UNITED STATES, &c,
Travelers' and Tourists' Route-Book through the United
States of America and the Canadas. Containing the
routes and distances on all the great lines of travel by
railroads, stage-roads, canals, rivers, and lakes, &e.—
accompanied with a large and accurate map.
Price, Si 00.
12 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.,
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
The Canada*, &c., showing the railroads, canals, and
stage-roads, with the distances from place to place*
Size, 28 by 32 inches. Price, in cases. $0 63.
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
The British Provinces, &c. Size, 24 by 20 inches.
Price, in cases, $0 38.
MAP OF THE UNITED STATES,
The British Provinces, Mexico, and Central America,
showing the routes of the U. S. Mail Steam-ships to
California and Oregon, with a plan of the " Gold
Region," &c. Size, 32 by 25 inches.
Price, in sheets, $0 25 ; in cases, $0 38.
GUIDE-BOOK
THROUGH THE NEW ENGLAND AND MIDDLE STATES.
Traveler's and Tourist's Guide-Book through the New
England and Middle States, and the Canadas. Con
taining the routes and distances on all the great lines
of travel by railroads, canals, stage-roads, and steam
boats, together with descriptions of the several states,
and the principal cities, towns, and villages in each-
accompanied •with a large and accurate map.
Price, $0 75.
MAP OF NEW YORK,
With parts of the adjoining States and Canada, show
ing the railroads, canals, and stage-roads, with distan
ces from place to place. Price, in cases, $0 38.
MAP OF THE NEW ENGLAND STATES,
Showing the railroads, canals, and stage-roads, with
distances from place to place. Price, in cases, $0 38.
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COLTON. 13
THE WESTERN TOURIST,
And Emigrant's Guide through the stated of Ohio, Mich
igan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, and Wiscon
sin, and the territories of Minesota, Missouri, and
Nebraska, being an accurate and concise description
of each state and territory ; and containing the routes
and distances on the great lines of travel— accompanied
with a large and minute map, exhibiting the township
lines of the United States' surveys, the boundaries of
counties, and the position of cities, villages, and set
tlements, &c. Price, $0 75.
THE BOOK OF THE WORLD;
Being an account of all Republics, Empires, Kingdoms,
and Nations, in reference to their geography, statistics,
commerce, &c,} together with a brief historical outline
of their vise, progress, and present condition, <&c., &c.
By Richard 8* Fisher, M. D. In two volumes, pp. 632-
727. (Illustrated with maps and charts.)
Price, $5 00.
OPINIONS.
" 1 have looked over the work with a good deal of interest. It ap
pears to me to be a very useful publication. It brings down the geo
graphical and statistical information of the various countries of the
world to a much later period than any other work that has coma under
my observation, and will not only be useful to the student, but to every
man desirous of obtaining the latest and most authentic information."
Millard Fillmore, Vice Pres. of U. S.
14 The work appears to me a very excellent one, and a very valuable
contribution to American literature." Charles Jlnthon, LL. D.
"• I have examined it sufficiently to perceive that it contains an im
mense amount of interesting and useful information."
Robert C. Winihrap^ M. C.
u It deserves a place in that indispensable department of every pri
vate, and especially of every school library — the department of books
of reference." Henry Barnard, Sup. Com. Schools in Conn.
u I have been fully satisfied with the fulness and extent of the infor
mation its ample pages present in answer to every inquiry — embracing
topography, physical geography, climate, products, mineral resources,
commerce, and history." S. W. Seton, Jlgt. Pub. $ch. Soe. JV. Y.
" It appears to me to contain a more full and accurate exhibition of
the world, in its geographical, commercial, and statistical aspects, than
any work with which I am acquainted."
Rev. R. R. Ourley, Chaplain U. S. Smote.
U MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.,
"• As a book of reference it is of great value, and contains more in
the same space than any work of a similar character 1 have yet seen.
• * * * I have great pleasure in recommending this book to all
persons who desire to possess a work of reference touching the great
interests of all nations."
Mbott Lawrence, U. S. Minister to England.
" The work, as a whole, may be said to constitute a library within it
self. There is no point, scarcely, in art, science, literature, economy, 01
history, at all appropriate to the subjects treated upon, which, on refer
ence to the work, will not be found fully elucidated ; and the aim of the
author seems to have been to condense into as small a space as possible
the entire circle of human knowledge."
Hunt's Merchants' Magazine.
"No work of a similar character, or on so magnificent a scale, haa
been issued from the American press since the volumes of the veteran
Morse. * * * * The author has omitted nothing that could at all
add to the perfection of his work." Democratic Review.
" We feel assured that the learned compiler of these volumes has
spared no investigation and care to exhibit the world as it now is, and
we can very confidently recommend the result of his labors. Such a
work was especially needed." National Intelligencer.
" It is written in a style at once easy, perspicuous, and energetic."
Independent) N. Y.
" We feel satisfied that the greatest labor and pains-taking must have
been expended, to have brought together such an amount of valuable
information." JV*. Y. Journal of Commerce.
" Editors and politicians, especially, have great use for such a work.
They have constant occasion to appeal to just such statistics as these
volumes embody, to illustrate and enforce their arguments or explode
the sophistries of dogmatists." National Era.
" The ' Book of the World,' embodying as it does a vast and varied
amount of information, drawn from all available authentic sources, pos
sesses great intrinsic value, and must prove useful to all classes of Amer
ican readers." 7'ezas Wesleyan Banner.
A CHRONOLOGICAL VIEW OF THE WORLD,
Exhibiting the leading events of Universal History ; the
origin and progress of the arts and sciences, «Stc. ;
collected chiefly from the article " Chronology" in the
new Edinburgh Encyclopedia, edited by Sir David
Brewster, LiLi. D., F. R. S., «fcc. ; with an enlarged
view of important events, particularly in regard to
American History, and a continuation to the present
time, by Daniel Haskell, A. 31., American Editor of
McCulloch's iJiiivcrsuI CJazetteer, «Scc. 12mo. pp. 207.
Vrice, $0 75.
PUBLISHED BT J. II. COLT ON. 14
COLTON'S OUTLINE MAPS,
ADAPTED TO THE USE OF
PRIMARY, GRAMMAR, AND HIGH SCHOOLS,
This new and valuable Series of Outline Maps comprises —
A Map of the World, in two hemispheres, each 80
inches in diameter, and separately mounted.
A Map of the United States, 80 by 62 inches.
A Map of Europe, 80 by 62 inches, on the same plan
with that of the United States, will complete the series
THE MAPS OF THE WORLD
Are nearly quadruple the eize of any others now in use, and exhibit
the different portions of the Earth's surface in bold and vivid out
line, which makes them sufficiently distinct to be plainly seen and
studied from the most distant parts of the largest school-room. They
exhibit the physical features of the World, and also give an accurate
view of its political divisions, showing the relative size of each, with
their natural and conventional boundaries. In the corners of each
map then; are diagrams which exhibit the elements of physical geogra
phy, as the parallels, meridians, zones, and climates — the latter by
isothermal lines. There are also appended two separate hemispheres,
exhibiting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans complete, fee., forming in all
eight different diagrams, illustrative of the primary elements of the
science. These appendices will greatly assist the teacher in his eluci
dations, and make tangible to the scholar the basis of geographical
mechanism.
THE MAP OF THE UNITED STATES
Exhibits the entire territory of the Union from the Atlantic to the
Pacific Oceans, and also the greater portion of the British Possessions in
the North, and the whole of Mexico and Central America, with part o».
the West Indies, in the South. It has also appended to it a MAP OF
THE NEW-ENGLAND STATES, on a larger scale. The physical
and political geography of this interesting region is minutely detailed.
The localities of the cities, and important towns, ports, and harbors
are denoted by points, and the map generally has been constructed on
the most approved principles, under the supervision and advice ol
several competent and experienced teachers.
IS* Prict of ihcst Jfaps is $5 each
COLTON'S UNIFORM SERIES
OF
TOWNSHIP MAPS
OF THE SEVERAL
STATES OF THE UNIOJST.
Compiled from the U. S. Surveys and other Sources.
These Maps are compiled from the original U. S. surveys,
and other authentic and reliable sources. The size of each
is 29X32 inches. They contain all the internal improve
ments, as railroads, canals, and post-roads ; the location of
mines and mineral lauds; the names of all cities, towns,
villages, post-offices, and settlements ; the county and town
ship lines ; and all other information usually sought for oa
maps — each map forming in itself a complete reflex of the
condition of the State it represents. The following States
of the series have been completed : —
MAINE,
N. HAMP. & VT.
MASS., R. I. & CONN.
NSW YORK,
OHIO,
WISCONSIN,
IOWA,
MISSOURI,
VIRGINIA, MARYLAND, & DELAWARE.
Similar maps of the other States and Territories will be
issued at an early period ; and when the whole series is
finished, it is intended that it shall form a splendid
NATIONAL ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES,
which, in point of scale, accuracy of information, embellish
ment, and general finish, will be superior to any like pub
lication that has ever issued from the press of either Europe
or America.
The price of each map, when handsomely mounted,
colored, and varnished, is $1 50 ; and when put up in
portable cases, $0 75.
PUBLISHED BY J. H. COL TON. 17
MAP OF THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO,
Compiled from official and other authentic sources t to
which is appended a corner map of the States of
Central America. 1 sheet. Size, 42 by 32 inches.
Price, mounted, $2 00 ; in cases, $1 50.
MAP OF THE COUNTRY 12 MILES AROUND
THE CITY OF NEW YORK,
With the names of property-holders, &c., from an en
tirely new and accurate survey. By J. C. Sidney.
2 sheets. Size, 40 by 40 inches.
Price, mounted or in cases, $3 00.
WESTERN PORTRAITURE;
And Emigrants' Guide : a Description of Wisconsin,
Illinois, and Iowa, with Remarks on Minnesota and
other Territories. By Daniel S. Curtis*. In 1 vol.
12mo. pp. 360, (illustrated with a township map.)
Price, $1 00.
Actual observation and great experience are the bases of this work ;
and in language and incident it has much to interest. It treats of the
" Great West," its scenery, its wild sports, its institutions and its charac
teristics, material and economic. In that portion devoted to statistical
illustration, the topography of sections and the adaptation of localities
to particular branches of industry occupy a large space : the geology,
soil, climate, powers and productions ot each are considered, and their
allied interests, their respective values and destinies, and their present
conditions, are accurately described.
MAP OF NEW ENGLAND,
Or the Eastern States: together with portions of the
State of New York and of the British Prorinces ad
jacent thereto. 4 sheets. Size, 64 by 57 inches. (In
progress.)
MAP OF THE PROVINCES OF NEW BRUNSWICK, iMOVA
SCOTIA, AND PRINCE EDWARD'S ISLAND,
And parts of the country adjacent thereto. 1 sheet.
Size, 32 by 29 inches. (In progress.)
Price, mounted, $ 1 50 ; in cases, $0 75.
18 MAPS, CHARTS, BOOKS, ETC.
STATISTICAL MAP OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK,
Comprising all the principal statistics of each county-
agricultural, manufacturing, commercial, &c. By R.
S. Fisher, M. D., author of the " Book of the World,"
&c. 1 sheet. Size, 32 by 26 inches. Price, $0 25.
Useful to all classes of our citizens, and indispensable for the informa
tion of parties engaged in the construction of railroads and other internal
improvements, speculators in land, and persons designing to settle in any
part of the State. All the material interests of the country are plainly
indicated in figures on the face of the map, or in the tables which ac
company it.
THE SEVENTH CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES
Of America, compiled from oSJclal sources. By Richard
8. Fisher, M. D., author of the " Book of the World,'*
&c. Pamphlet of 72 pages, accompanied with a map.
Price, $0 25.
This pamphlet contains a vast fund of information, useful to the
legislator, merchant, speculator, and editor. Not only the results of the
late census, but the aggregates of each former census, are accurately
exhibited.
CORDOVA'S MAP OF TEXAS,
Compiled from new and original surveys. 4 sheets.
Size, 36 by 34 inches.
Price, mounted, $5 OG ; in cases, $3 00.
This is the only reliable map of Texas, and being on a large scale,
exhibits minutely and with distinctness the natural features of the Stato
and its several political divisions. The following government officers
certify to its accuracy and completeness.
u We have no hesitation in saying that no map could surpass this in
accuracy and fidelity." DAVID S. KAUFMAN, THOS. J. RUSK,
S. PILSBURY, SAM. HOUSTON.
" I certify to the correctness of this map, it being the only one extant
that is truly correct." JOHN C. HAYS.
Besides his own publications, J. H. O. has constantly on hand
a large assortment of Atlases and Foreign Maps.
Mounting in all its forms carefully executed for the trade
public institutions, &c.
14 DAY USE
RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED
LOAN DEPT.
This book is due on the last date stamped below, or
on the date to which renewed.
Renewed books are subject to immediate recall.
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