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THE

EMIGRANTS GUIDE

THE WESTERN AND SOUTHWESTERN STATES
AND TERRITORIES:

COMPRISING

A GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF
THE STATES OF

JLouisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio ; — the Territories of Alabama,
Missouri, Illinois, and Michigan ; and the western parts of Virginia, Pennsyl-
yania, and New- York. With a complete List of the Road and River
Routes, west of the Aleghany Mountains, and the connecting Roads from
New-York, Philadelphia, and Washington City, to New-Orleans,
St. Louis, and Pittsburg. The whole comprising a more com-
prehensive Account of the Soil, Productions, Climate,
and present state of Improvement of the Regions
described, than any Work hitherto published.

ACCOMPANIED BT A MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, INCLUDIN&

LOUISIANA, PROJECTED AND ENGRAVED EXPRESSLT

FOR THIS WORK.

BY WILLIAM DARBY,

Member of the JVeio-York Historical Society, and Author of

m Map and Statistical Account of the State of

Louisiana and the adjacent Regions.

J\*EJV-YORK:
PUBLISHED BY KIRK & MERCEIN,

NO. 22 WALL-STREET.
AND FOR SALE BY WELLS &. LI1.LY, BOSTON ; E. F. BACKUS, ALBANY", A. SEWARD,

inicA ; j. e. coale, Baltimore; worsley &. smith, Lexington, ?;e*-

TUCKY ; THOMAS DOBSON, M. CAREY 8l SO.V, 41. THOMAS, AND E. EAR1 E,
PHILADELPHIA ; HF.ZEKIAH HOWE, KEW-B4VEN) O. SHELDON & CO. HART-
FORD} ROUSMANtERK &. BARBER, NEWPORT; D. KENTuN, TRENTON-, W. E
NORMAN, HUDSON; F1TZWHYLSONN « PO TTER, RICHMOND ; W. F- GRAY, FRE-
DERIC KSBUKClf \ JOHN KILL, CHARLESTON; AND W. T. WILLIAMS, SAVAI«f3S

William A. Meicein, Printer, 83 Geld-Slreet.

1318.

THE

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE

THE WESTERN AND SOUTHWESTERN STATES
AND TERRITORIES :

COMPRISING

A GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF
THE STATES OF

JLouisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio ; — the Territories of Alabama.
Missouri, Illinois, and Michigan ; and the western parts of Virginia, Pennsyl-
vania, and New- York. With a complete List of the Road and River
Routes, west of the Aleghany Mountains, and the connecting Roads from
New- York, Philadelphia, and Washington City, to New-Orleans,
St. Louis, and Pittsburg. The whole comprising a more com-
prehensive Account of the Soil, Productions, Climate,
and present state of Improvement of the Regions
described, than any Work hitherto published.

ACCOMPANIED BT A MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, INCLUDINS

LOUISIANA, PROJECTED AND ENGRAVED EXPRESSLT

FOR THIS WORK.

BY WILLIAM DARBY,

Member of the JVeiv-York Historical Society, and Author of

u Map and Statistical Account of the State of

Louisiana and the adjacent Regions.

NEW-YORK:

PUBLISHED BY KIRK & MERCEIN,

SO. 22 WALL-STREET.
AND FOR SALE BY WELLS Si LILLY, BOSTON ; E. F. BACKUS, ALBANY; A. SEWARD,

uiica; j. e. cuale, Baltimore; worsley h smith, Lexington, Kex-

TUCKY ; THOMAS DOBSON, M. CAREY &. SON, Jl. THOMAS, AND E. EARI £,
PHILADELPHIA; HF.ZEKIAH HOWE, NEW-HAVEN; O. SHELDON & CO. HART-
FORD; ROUSMANIERE &. BARBER, NEWPORT; D. KENTON, TRENTON; W. E
NORMAN, HUDSON; FITZWHYLSONN k PO rTER, RICHMOND ; W. F. GRAY, FRE-
DERIC &SBURCU J JOHN KILL, CHARLESTON J AND W. T. WILLIAMS, SAYAJf.faH,

William A. Meicein, P.inter, 93 Geld-Sireet.
1318,

£:#»

2-OQy

A0-x

•••►• Soutfitrn Distficf of JVew-Yorfc, a*.

BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the twentieth day of January, inline forty-first
' . ' . ?ear of the Independence of the United States of America, Kirk & Mercem, of the said

District, have deposited in this office the title of a Book, the right whereof they
'. : .ilaim as Proprietors, in the words following, to wit :
.... " The Emigrant's Guide to the Western and Southwestern States and Territories:

iomprisinsr a Geographical and Statistical Description of the States of Louisiana, Mis-
:;;: Spi, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio ;-the Territories of Alabama, Missouri, III.-
• : • nois; and Michigan ; and the western parts of Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New-York.

With a complete List of the Road and River Routes west of the Aleghany Mountains,

■ ' . 'andthecSSecting Roads from New-York, Philadelphia, and Washington City, to New-

' Orleans St. Louis, and Pittsburg. The whole comprising a more comprehensive Ac-
' " ' count of the Soil, Productions, Climate, and present state of Improvement of the Ke-

■ ' • fcions described, than any Work hitherto published. Accompanied by a Map of the

United States, including Louisiana, projected and engraved expressly for this work.
' " Bv William Darby, Member of the New-York Historical Society, and Author oi a Map

and Statistical Account of the State of Louisiana and the adjacent Regions."
'■'■'- In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States entitled 1 » An Act
, • .for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and

Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the time therein men-
foned " And also to an Act/entitled « An Act, supplementary to an Act entitled an
Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, and
Books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men-
tioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the aits of designing, engraving, and etch-
ing historical and other prints." , J A MEg mhU

Clerk of the Southern District of New- York.

Note.— In the following only those corrections are made where the sense is
affected by the words as the'y stand in the text. The reader is desired to
Note.

In table page 14, the numbers in the second column standing opposite to the
words Arkansaw, and White river, are inverted ; after Arkansaw, read 630,
and after White river, 650.

In line 31, from head of page 17, for Perssinon, read Persimon.

In page 21, fifth line from bottom, for their liability, read the liability.

In page 26, line 7 from head of the page, for Dijou, read Dijon.— Same pa°;e,
line 9 from head of the page, for Beaune, read Beaume.— Same page, line 2a
from the head of the page, for Durane, read Durance.

In page 28, line 7 from head of the page, for Rheins, read Rhtims.

In page 32, line 6 from bottom of the page, for Maurpas, read Maurepas.

In road No. 5, page 37, retrench 30 from each of the last four aggregate dis-
tances, which will render the numbers respectively, 166, 211, 261, and 306.

In page 41, line 17 from head, after Pascagoula, read, and thence by water.

In page 41, line 12 from the bottom, after the word suit, insert a semicolon,
and read the following, thus ; his mattress is then stretched, &c.

In page 57, line 15 from head, for is most, read are most.

In page 87, line 19 and 20 from head, forBistenean, read Bistineau.

In page 136, line 16 and 17 from head, for Petititbois, read Pelitbois.

In road 29, page 157, add 20 to each aggregate distance below 198, standing
opposite to the words " mouth of Ohio ;" the real distance by water from St.
Louis to New Orleans, is 1209 miles.

In page 164, the latitude of St. Louis is marked 45 deg. 15 min., for which
read46deg. 15min.

In page 143, under the article St. Louis, for the sight is bold, read the site is
bold ; and under the same article, for delapidated, read dilapidated.

In page 166, line 6 from head, for calycle, read calyx.— Same page, line 9
Irom head, for calycle, read calyx.— Same page, line 11 from head, for lisse,
read glossy.

In page 172, last line but one, in the note, for pecel, read peach.

In page 173, line 29 from head, for frost, read sort.

In the statistical table, page 187, under population, and opposite Pennsylva-
nia, for 102, and 391, read 202, 391.

In page 205, line 21 from head, for has, read have.

In page 227, first line, Williamsburg in Clermont county is noticed amongst
the principal towns of the state of Ohio ; of course ought to be retrenched from
towns of secondary note, which are named in page 229.

In page 246, line 5 from bottom, for afford, read affords; and same page,
line 11 from bottom, for render, read renders.

In page 410, topographical table of the western parts of the state of New-
ark, after Cortlandt, add Franklin, 2-617— which latter number, added to the
aggregate, 191-812, will give 194 429, as the amount of the population of west
riiew- York, in 1810.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Louisiana — exteat and divisions — land offices in — titles to land —
aurveys — productions — seasons — inundations. — Mississippi river — its
confluent streams. — Gulf of Mexico — currents in. — New-Orleans — its
connexion with the Mobile, Natchez, Arkansaw. — French colony —
grant to. — Climate of France, respecting the productions of wine. —
Rozier's work on agriculture. — Basin of the Rhone — Seine — Loire —
Garonne — Mobile. — Climate of Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi,
Texas. — Alabama territory — towns of — roads. — Advice to Emigrants
— Moschetoes, mode of defending themselves against — page 3 — 43.

CHAPTER II.

Louisiana— southwest part — roads in — limits — general description
— rivers — productions — inhabitants — their character — prairies — poli-
tical divisions — sugar cane — domestic animals — cereal gramina— cli-
mate— forest trees. — Texas— settlement of — a part of the United

States — climate — inhabitants — natural features — productions. Red

river — country watered by. — Ouachitta — confluent streams. — Grants
of Batrop's and Masion Rouge's grants. — Northwest section of the
state of Louisiana — towns of — staples — land — p. 44 — 103.

CHAPTER III.

Mississippi — state of— act of congress respecting — statistical table
of — Convention — Dr. Lattimore's Speech — population — position —
rivers — counties — natural divisions — natural productions — climate —
soil — staples — towns. — Alabama territory — act of congress creating
— general description — towns. — Missouri territory — statistical table
— rivers— settlements — towns — improvements — agriculture — popula-
tion— climate — roads — p. 104 — 164,

CHAPTER IV.
Olive tree— History of — in New Spain— botanical descriptioa
of — climate and soil suitable to — locality in France. — Mouth of
Black Warrior river — latitude of. — Effects of frost upon the olive —
history of the olive tree, from Miller's Gardener's Dictionary — com-
pared with the vine — vegetation — leaves of. — Cotton — sugar — rice —
tobacco — indigo— potatoes.— Fruits of Louisiana. — Vegetables that
may be introduced into, beneficially. — Mulberry — silkworm — 165
—186.

CHAPTER V,

Valleys of the Ohio and Illinois — statistical table of— geographi-
cal structure — political divisions.— State of Tennessee— length,breadtb,

CONTENTS.

and extent — natural features — mountains. — Tennessee river — sta-
tionary distance upon — soil and climate of the state of Tennessee —
progressive geography — history — productions — roads. — Kentucky —
progressive geography — population — rivers — productions — towns,col-
leges and schools. — Illinois territory — topographical table of — pro-
gressive geography — history — rivers — bounty lands in — timber trees
— towns. — State of Indiana — statistical table of — rivers — towns — vil-
lages— schools — productions, and staples — merchandise~187 — 217.

CHAPTER VI.

Ohio — state of — population — extent — topographical table — natu-
ral geography — rivers — progressive geography — history — towns —
productions — seasons — climate — West Pennsylvania — West Virginia
— natural geography — minerals — mountains — rivers — cities — towns —
productions — proposed canals — improvement — 218 — 266.

CHAPTER VII.
Basin of St. Lawrence — political divisions of. — Lakes — Michigan —
Huron — Erie — Ontario. — Rivers — Genessee country — roads. — Boats
most suitable to navigate the Mississippi river. — Canal from Hudson
to Erie — from Hudson to Champlain. — List of roads. — Advice to
Emigrants. — Ohio valley. — Geographical and statistical works on —
267—298.

APPENDIX.

No. I. Form of a Spanish Grant. — II. Canals. — III. Western set-
tlements.— IV. Late Indian Treaty. — V. Population in Indiana. —
VI. American wine. — VII. Hamilton, in the state of New-York. —
VIII. Inland Navigation. — IX. Navigation of the Aleghany river. —
X. Inland Navigation. — XL Steam on the Mississippi and confluent
rivers. — XII. Birkbeck's ." Journey in America."

Note — Topographical table of the western parts of the state of
New-York, and of Michigan territory.

PREFACE.

The daily increasing importance of the Western and Southwestern-
States and Territories of the United States, and the immense population
which the tide of emigration is accumulating in those regions, render an
accurate topographical description of their natural and artificial features
a desideratum in geographical science. Many local circumstances of the
greatest consequence to travellers, are not made the subjects of remark^
in any work extant. Even the manner and conditions, in, and under
which the public lands of the United States are sold, the situation, pro-
ductions and climate of the Western and Southwestern States, are very
imperfectly described, in most geographical works. Dr. Drake's account
of Cincinnati, is the best publication extant, relative to the States of Ohio
and Kentucky ; but that performance, judicious as it is, embraces but a
small part of the extensive country, in the Valley of the Ohio, Mississip-
pi, Missouri, and their confluent streams. As to Stoddard's Louisiana,
Brackenridge's views of Louisiana, and Darby's Louisiana, they, like
Drake's Cincinnati, furnish only local information. Mr. Melish's work,
accompanying his large map, contains a general description of the
United States ; but, being part of an expensive work, which few persons,
comparatively, have it in their power to procure, its usefulness is conse»,
quently very confined.

In the present work, it has been the intention of the author, to con*
dense into one portable, and cheap volume, such notices of the country
described, as would tend to remove many obstacles. The roads are ar-
ranged for each State and Territory, which are necessary for a removal
to any given place in the Valley of the Mississippi, by all the various
routes now travelled, either by land or water.

The description of tenure, under which the French and Spanish go<-
vernments granted lands to individuals, is but imperfectly known in the
United States, and emigrants ou»ht to gain a previous knowledge of its
nature, before removing to places, where all landed property, not sold by
the United States, is held and transferred under a species of title, having
but little analogy to any with which they had a previous acquaintance.

As the author of this work was one of the surveyors, who for several
years assisted in adjusting the ancient boundaries of land, in Louisiaiiaj
he had frequent and favourable opportunities of gaining correct informa*
tion, respecting the French and Spanish (and titles.

Though many local circumstances may be omitted, yet the author
flatters himself, that the traveller in the valley of the Mississippi, wiH find
the Emigrant's Guide an useful manual,
I

£ PREFACE.

A statement of the distances from New Orleans, to the various points
in Louisiana, Texas, Mexico, Mississippi, Alabama, and Missouri, has
never before been published on so extensive a plan ; many of the routes
are not even mentioned in any former work. A knowledge of the sea-
sons of the year, most suitable to travel, either by land or water, is of the
utmost importance to the emigrant. More expense and embarrassment
arise from travelling in newly established settlements, at improper times,
than many persons could be made to believe. Want of information on
the subject of the means of conveyance, is also a source of trouble and
expense to emigrants, particularly those, who remove with families.
Practical experience on the subject, has enabled the author to mention, in
detail, the vegetable staples, their prices and usual mart of sale. The
three great articles of culture in the Western and Southwestern States
and Territories, Cotton, Flour and Sugar, will demand the most serious
attention in every statistical work, relative to those places.

The author has been careful to avoid holding up exaggerated prospects
of rapid gain ; the manv overwrought and highly coloured pictures
which have been drawn of different parts, of what is in common language
called the Western Country, have produced more evil and injury than
can be easily conceived. That those regions do present flattering views
to the emigrant, there is no doubt; but there is no country, where labour
is not indispensably necessary, and where the common routine of acquir-
ing gain, is not slow and gradual.

With his best wishes for their prosperity, the author of this work takes,
leave of his readers.

New-York, Sept. mhr 181T,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

CHAPTER I.

That part of the United States, which has received the ter»i
Western, relatively to the part east of the \leghany mountains, lies
entirely in the valley of the Mississippi, and Basin of the Canadian
Lakes. The southwestern parts of the United States, south of Ten*-
nessee and west of Georgia, lie in the valleys of the Mississippi,
Mobile and Apal.ichicola rivers, and other smaller streams in tdeir
vicinity. The following table will exhibit the extent and population
of this part of America

Extent in

Population.

square miles.

Acres.

Louisiana

1 10,000

48,220

30,860.800

Mississippi

40,000

44,500

28,4c,0.000

Alabama

25,000

44,500

28,486,000

Tenessee

340.000

40,000

25.600.000

Kentucky

580.000

39,000

24,960 000

Ohio

346.000

39,000

24,960,000

Indiana

: 00.000

34.000

21,760,000

Illinois

20,000

50,000

32,000,000

Missouri

*200,000

1 ,200,000

768,000,000

Michigan

7,000

27,000

17,280.000

N. W. Territory

147,000

94,080 000

Texas

10,000

100.000

6t.0OO.( 00

1,778,000

1,813,220 |

l,iri0,46O,uU0

When the valley of the Mississippi is mentioned in this work, it is
to be understood as comprising ali the country drained by that river,
properly so called, or its tributary streams.

In describing each of the territorial divisions in this work, we will
commence with the most southwestern, and proceed in the order of na-
tural position as far as practicable. Following this arrangement, the
state of Louisiana will first present itself.

Before entering on a detail of this state, it may not be irrelevant to
explain the difference between Louisiana in its extended sense, and
the state of Louisiana as created by act of Congress.

When Louisiana was taken possession of, Dec. 20th 1803, it was
temporarily divided into two territories, the territory of Orleans, and
that of Louisiana. The territory of Orleans, comprising the same
limits, exr.ept West Florida, that now contain the slate of Louisiana,
was, when the territory of Orleans became a state, changeu to the

* Including the Indians.

A EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

territory of Missouri,* as it now politically exists. The state of Louis-
iana commences on the west or right bank of the Mississippi, where
that river is intersected by the thirty third degree of north latitude ;
and thence down the middle of the Mississippi, to the northernmost
part of the thirty-first degree of north latitude ; thence along that
degree to the west or right bank of the Pearl river ; thence down
that stream to its mouth ; thence along the gulf of Mexico, including
all islands within six leagues of the shore, to the mouth of the Sabine
fiver ; thence up tf.it stream, until where it is intersected by the
thirty second degree of north latitude ; thence by a line due north
to the northernmost part of the thirty-third degree of north latitude ;
and thence along that degree to the place of beginning.

There is no extent of land on the globe, possessing greater diversity
of soil, than the state of Louisiana. The southeastern part mostly is
included in the delta of the Mississippi, is flat, and where the sur-
face can be preserved from inundation, extremely fertile ; the south-
western part is generally level prairie, and much of its area extreme-
ly productive ; the northwestern part, a thick forest, and low allu-
vial soil, upon the rivers ; but at a distance from the streams, the
land is high, broken, and sterile.

Like all other establishments made in America, the first settle-
ments of Louisiana were detached, and known by the term of " posts."
While a French colony, the posts, east of the Mississippi, were Mobile ;
upon the Mississippi, at a distance from New Orleans, Lafourche, Bat-
ton Rouge, hoint Coupee and Natchez ; — and west of the Mississippi,
Jlttacapas, Opelousas, Rapides, Avoyelles, Natchitoches, and Ouachitta.
Notwithstanding the parochial, and county divisions now existing in
Louisiana, the names of the ancient " Posts'' are retained, and by
then appellations, are the minor subdivisions known.

During the existence of the French and Spanish governments, the
places near New Oi leans, and on the margin of the river, were known
by the current name of the Churches, and this topographical discrimi-
nation is also retained in common use at this time.

As almost every person, in and out of the country, knows the va-
rious parts of Louisiana by these long established terms, I shall use
them in this work. It would be vain, even in Louisiana, to inquire
for the Church of St. Landre", though every person could point out
Opelousas. Attacapas is every where known, whilst but few out of
the parishes themselves, know the existence of such places as St.
Martins, or St. Mary's.

The same observations are applicable to Lafourche, Baton Rovge,

* We are induced to introduce in this place, the following translation, in order
to show hovr little Hie best geographer* of Europe know of the political terri-
toria' divisions in America, and how far their descriptions of boundaries are
entitled to credit.

'• Government of New Orlean?, or lower Louisiana, extent and limits — AH
we certainly know on these two subjects, is reduced to this,— that a line drawn
from the post of Natches io that of Natchitoches on Red river, forms the limit
between the government of IVev, Orleans and that of Indiana. (Haute Louis-
iana) upper Louisiana." Mentelle, Paris, 1816.

The work from which the above is extracted, is an elaborate system of uni-
versal geography, 16 Vol. in Oct.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 5

Point Coupee, Rapides, Natchitoches, and Ouachitta. To those per-
sons who merely wish information respecting the country, or design
to emigrate to any part of it, these popular names will be of more
benefit, than the legal, but less known terms by which the parishes
and counties are designated in the legislative and juridicial proceed-
ings of the state. In every inquiry respecting Louisiana, made by
those who intend to remove, and obtain actual residence there, the
tenure by which landed property is held, is the first, and most seri-
ous subject for their investigations.

As the tenure of land in this state differs so essentially from that of
other parts of the United States, 1 shall be more particular in tracing
it to its source, and pointing out its validity.

As the governments of France and Spain never considered public
land as a source of revenue, the grants were generally small, and
made to actual settlers, for specific purposes.

The requete, (petition) sets forth the pursuits of the claimant, the
number of his family, and the quantity of land desired.

The commandants or surveyor's certificate, certified that the land
prayed for, was vacant. The order of survey, directed the com-
mandant or surveyor, to put the petitioner into possession of the land
prayed for, without doing injury to prior possessions. The conces-
sion, or document of survey, set forth, that on a certain day, and almost
always in presence of the neighbouring land owners, the petitioner
was put into possession, pursuant to the tenor of the order of survey.
When ttie papers containing the whole of these preliminary proceed-
ings were returned to the land office in New Orleans, the final pa-
tent issued, granting the land in (Franc-alleu,) allodial tenure.*

In this manner were most of the land titles of Louisiana framed.
Large grants, such as those of Bastrop, Maison Rouge and the Houmas,
were exceptions in principle, and the difference will be pointed out
in the sequel to this work.

After the termination of the war between France and Spain, at
the commencement of the French revolution, and the provisional
recession of Louisiana to the former, but (ew patents for laud were
issued by the Spanish government in Louisiana. The inhabitants
proceeded as usual to frame their petitions, upon which they easily
procured the certificate of the commandant or surveyor, and in
many instances, orders of survey were made. When the land offices
were opened in New Orleans, and Opelousas under the act of con-
gress of 27th March, 1804, the commissioners found the land titles
of the country composed of all the various grades, from the simple
petition, to the complete grant, or patent. The author was himself
present at Opelousas, when the land office was opened at that place,
in Oct. 1815, and it was indeed difficult to determine, whether the
commissioners were Jess acquainted with the real nature of the pa-
pers they were to investigate, or the people of the country with the
principles of law or equity, under which their property was to be
placed by the new order of things.

The requisitions of the law of the United States, were tardily and

See Appendix, No. L

$ EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

reluctantly complied with ; difficulties created delay, and many
years passed away, before the real quantity of land claimed, could
be ascertained with any precision ; and even at this time, when
twelve years have elapsed, many of the larger claims are undeter-
mined.

After the opening of the land offices in Louisiana, the commission-
ers found a number of claims for land held by actual settlement, with-
out any title from the Spanish government.

The United States government recognized these claims, and where-
ever it was practicable, six hundred and forty acres were surveyed,
and appropriated to each claim.

Another species of claim presented itself in the shape of purchases
from the Indians. As this mode of procuring land was so repugnant
to the policy of the United States, the commissioners did not, per-
haps, in every instance, make due allowance for the different prin-
ciples upon which the former and present government, that held
Louisiana, had proceeded respecting the Indian tribes. Those
claims were, however, in most instances finally confirmed.

The land of Louisiana is generally surveyed in the form of a pa-
rallelogram, forty arptnts deep, from front to rear: this mode, which
commenced on the banks oi the Mississippi, was pursued in all other
parts of the country. In some of the larger claims, this principle was
departed from, but in the common tracts, only a few deviations are to
be found.

The arpent of Paris*, was the universal measure of land, and by
it were all grants and sales made. The acre is not yet, and per-
haps, in respect to land htld under the ancient titles, never will be
introduced into use, in Louisiana

In lands that may be purchased from the United States, the tenure
will always be, and the form of the tracts, in most instances, the
same with all other lands, in every part of the United States, derived
from similar purchase.

The following is the mode established by law, for the surveying
and selling ot public lands. I have annexed the form of a regular
and an irregular township, to illusttate the true intent and meaning
of the terms section, and its fractions, and the manner of numbering,
by which the position of any patt is known.

In Louisiana, innumerable instances occur, where, in the same
township, there re private claims, the lines of which run in all di-
rection* ; and public land, the lines of which are run by the true
meridian; this constitutes an irregular township. This admixture of
the different modes of surveying the contiguous land held under the
various tenures, as before mentioned, takes place in all parts of the

s It is generally, even at this lime, by the arpent, and not by the acre,
that transfers of land are. made in'Louisianal, and ad this custom will probably
continue, the leiative areaoagbt to be known uy emigrants

The folio viug formula contains the elements to reduce the one into the

Ar. Ac. Ar.

other, viz. 605 arpents make 512 acr.-s, stated thus; If 605 : 512 : : 100,
and reversely, if the reduction is from acres to arpents.

T.ie arpt.it is used also as a measure of length, being 180 feet, or30toise?
French, equal to 1°2 feet English or American feet, nearly.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 7

country upon which settlements or grants were made, prior to the
20th December, 1803. There are large space* of excellent soil,
however, upon which no settlements or grants were made, before
possession was had by the agents of the United States; and of course
the townships here will be regular.

From Natchez to New Orleans, and ss far below the latter city as
the banks of the Mississippi are arable, the French and Spanish
grants extend, and though much vacant land was found by the
United States surveyors, I believe in no one place was it of sufficient
extent to admit of an unbroken township.

The banks of the Lafourche were granted and actually settled
upon both sides, about ninety miles from its effiux from the Mississip-
pi, under the French and Spanisb governments The banks of Red
river near Natchitoches, and the Rapide, and in the Avoyelles
prairie, were extensively granted and settled. — The Ouachitta river,
from its mouth to the entrance of Saline river, fri lat. 33° 6' N.
was also settled ; and near Fort Miro, to a considerable distance from
the river.

In Atacapas and Opelousas the grants and settlements commenced
upon the Atchafalaya, below the mouth of Teche, and reached to
mee; the grants of Rapide. On the waters of the Vermilion, Cour-
tableau and Mermentau, the grants were numerous and settlements
extensive.

In all other parts of the state, the land ceded by the govern-
ment, was in distant detached spots. Upon the Sabine and Calcasiu
rivers the grants were t'ew ; most of the country remained, and now
remains vacant. Above Natchitoches on Red river, the grants and
settlements terminated about twenty miles above the post. On Oua-
ohitt; , considerable tracts still continue public property. In the very ex-
tensive tract between Opelousas and the N. VV. angle ot the state, fol-
lowing the dividing ridge between Red and Sabine and Calcasiu ri-
vers, the surface is almost entirely vacant. The area between Red
and Ouachitta rivers, also continues in a great measure unoccupied.
. A great portion of that part of West Florida that has been incorpo-
rated into the state of Louisiana is yet public land. The only arable
tract, yet public land, upon which the suijar cane can be cultivated
successfully, is contained between the Lafourche and Atchafalaya ri-
vers upon the Bayou Bceuf. This region remained unexplored till
after the establishment of the American government.

To execute the surveys in the then territory of Orleans, now state
of Louisiana, Mr. Isaac Briggs, then surveyor of the lands of the
United States south of Tennessee, commenced, in the summer of 1805,
the operation, by establishing the point where 339 N. L. crossed the
Mississippi river ; that parallel was then extended to Red river, a dis-
tance of 148 miles and a fraction. The 31° N. Lat. was extended
to Sabine, from the point fixed by Mr. Andrew Ellicott, on the left
shore of the Mississippi. At the distance from Ellicott's point of 48
miles, a due meridian line was extended north to the 33° N. Lat. and
south to the swamps upon the gulf of Mexico. These lines thus sur-
veyed and marked, were the basis upon which the subsequent sur-
veys were performed. The private claims were extremely com-

8 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

plex, and the interferences exhibited on the plan of the annexed irre-
gular townships, were frequent and intricate. The difficulty of
determining with precision the extent of private property was one of
the many causes that retarded the final adjustment of the claims by
the several boards of commissioners.

No sales of public land have yet been made in the state of Louisia-
na ; of course all the settlements yet formed in that state are upon
private claims, or by unauthorized locations on the lands of the Uni-
ted States.

The annexed tables will serve to show the relative position, quan-
tity, and quality of soil in the state of Louisiana now claimed by indi-
viduals, or held by the government of the United States.

Crops — Culture. — As a general crop, cotton can be much more
extensively cultivated in the state of Louisiana than sugar ; the for-
mer is universal, whilst the production of the latter isconfined to a very
limited extent in the state. The opposite table was calculated in the
country for publication in my tracts on Louisiana. The relative value
as established by that compulation has been considered correct ;
though each article is estimated lower than the ordinary price.

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EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

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10 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Tobacco and indigo could be as extensively cultivated as cotton,
but neither of the former offers as alluring prospects to the planter as
the latter. Tobacco and indigo have each been staples of Louisiana,
but have long been abandoned, and their places supplied by sugar and
cotton.

To new settlers, and to persons of moderate property, cotton pre-
sents a more facile source of revenue, even in places where the soil and
climate will admit the culture of sugar.

On the banks of the Mississippi below the efflux of Plaquemine> on
the Lafourche in all its extent, on the Teche below the entrance of the
Bayou Fusilier, and on the Vermilion below lat. 30° 12' north,
wherever the soil is elevated above the annual inundation, sugar can
be produced. On all those places, except the Vermilion, sugar farms
and houses are at this time established to advantage.

In all other parts of (he state, cotton is the general staple. The quan-
tity produced on the various soils differs greatly. The best districts
for cotton in the state of Louisiana, are the banks of Red river, Oua-
chitta, Bayou Boeuf, the river Teche, and the Mississippi. Of those
places a tacit preference has been given to the banks of Red river,
and those of Bayou Bceuf. Many instances have occurred of two
thousand pounds of cotton, with the seed, being raised in one season
from a single acre of land ; and a produce not much inferior has been
realized from an extensive farm.

But though cotton succeeds best on the deep alluvion of the rivers,
it is extremely profitable on the prairie land, distant from any consider-
able streams of water. On second rate land which occurs on the small-
er water courses in the pine tracts, there are considerable bodies of
land very favourable to cotton. This latter species of soil occurs ex-
tensively between the Red and the Sabine, and between the Red and
Ouachitta rivers ; most of it is yet the property of the United States.
When a land office for entry is opened, many very desirable spotsmay
be found in those places, having the additional benefit of being well
supplied with springs of the purest water.

Rice can be cultivated in any part of the state of Louisiana, where
the soil will permit its growth ; the summers are of sufficient length be-
low the 33° N. lat. to enable this grain to ripen. Rice is at this time
the third in quantity and aggregate value of the staples of the state,
though its culture is more particularly confined to the banks of the
Mississippi, where irrigation can be more easily performed than in any
other part of the country. This staple could be multiplied to any as-
signable extent, that the demands of domestic consumption or com-
merce should make necessary. There is an immense range of coun-
try between the Sabine and Pearl, more congenial to the culture of
rice, than any other vegetable.

The production, however, perhaps of the highest value to the planter,
on and near the Mississippi river, is Indian corn (zea mays). This in-
valuable plant may be called with strict propriety the nur*e of the
human species in the newly established settlements in America. It
is every where found, on ail soils and climates, from Canai'a to the
Mexican gulf, an<J is, wherever produced, the principal article of
food for man and his most valuable domestic animals.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 11

There is no crop which differs so much in quantity in cfiflerent sea-
sons, and in different soils, as maize. 1 have myself known from five
to one hundred and ten bushels produced from an acre in one year.
The state of Louisiana is not the most favourable part of the United
States for the culture of maize, but excellent crops are produced. The
ground most congenial to its growth does not differ much trom that suit-
able to cotlon.

The time of planting maize below 33° N lat. to the Gulf of Mexi-
co, may be chosen from the beginning of April to the end of June.
It is not unusual to see ripe maize in one field, and in the adjoining
enclosure the young plant just making its appearance above the
ground.

Wheat and rye might be cultivated in the state of Louisiana, but
from the facility of importing flour and whiskey down the Mississippi,
it is not very probable that either wheat or rye will ever be much cul-
tivated where more lucrative staples can be produced.

The fruits most generally cultivated are, the peach, orange *nd fig ;
the apple is often seen, but does not thrive well ; — the climate is per-
haps too warm in summer. Plums, grapes, and pomegranates grew
luxuriantly, and produce abundantly, but are neglected.

The gardens in Louisiana are not equal (o what might be expected
from the fertility of the sod, or mildness of the seasons. There is no
country, however, that would admit finer gardens, nor a greater vari-
ety of plants, either for use or ornament. Those few persons who
have made Horticulture their pursuit, and have given their attention
to gardening, have succeeded. Amongst the best gardens yet form-
ed in the state of Louisiana, or its neighbourhood, is that of M. Ceval-
los in the city of New Orleans, M. Bringier, at the Acadien coast,
and the late Mr. William Dunbar of Natchez. In general, the atten-
tion paid to the culture of the rich staples, engrosses too much time and
industry, to leave leisure for the more elegant, but less lucrative
branches of agriculture,

Seasons' — Inundation. — The seasons in Louisiana are extremely va-
riable ; the difference between two succeeding winters, at New
Orleans, is frequently as much as could be expected in a change
of four or five degrees of latitude. In the winter 1779-UO, Bayou
St. John was frozen for a considerable time ; a phenomenon that did
not again occur, until 1814, in the latter end of December. In ordi-
nary seasons, the ponds and other stagnant waters, as low as 30 N.
lat. is seldom frozen, though few of any winters occur, without frost
at New Orleans. There is much more difference in climate, between
Natchez and New Orleans, than could be expected from the relative
positions of each. Snow is frequent at Natchez, and often falls in
considerable quantity. The orange tree and sugar cane are otten
destroyed by frost, even upon the shore of the gulf of Mexico. At
Natchez, the peach is rendered precarious from late frosts in the
spring ; at the latter place, the cotton is often killed late in April.

Those unseasonable storms, that occur in every part of the United
States, are frequent and destructive along the gulf of Mexico. The
church of St. Landre, at Opelousas, stands in 30° 32' N. lat. At
■hat place, in the month of January, 1807, the snow fell in consider-

12 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

able quantity, and remained on the ground upwards of a week. At
the same place, in the month of January, i8I2, snow fell nearly a
foot in depth, and remained several days on the ground ; and late in
April, 1814, the hlossoms and tender branches of the Pride of India,
(Melia Azederacb,) the young peaches, the cotton, and even the flow-
ers and twigs of the oak, were destroyed.

About 30° N. lat. may be assumed as the region of snow ; few if
any instances occur of its falling below that parallel/ When the
snow fell and lay upon the surface of the earth, nearly a foot deep,
at Opelousas, there was only a heavy rain at New Iberia, 30° 02'
N. lat.

There is a singular coincidence between the line where snow
ceases, and sugar cane commences. The highest point in, or near
the valley of • the Mississippi, where the sugar cane has been culti-
' vatecl to advantage, is about 30° 12' N. lat. or but a little north of
the line of occasional snow Many attempts have been made to
cultivate sugar cane, above 31° N. lat. some of which produced
delusive results, as no instance has yet occurred, where the existence
of that plant was not found precarious, when attempted in places
where snow had been frequent.

There are vegetable and meteorological analogies, that ought
never to be disregarded in our observations oTi climate. The orange
tree in Europe is found to flourish farther north than the sugar cane ;
in North America, the contrary effect has been observed ; but in
neither place, can one of those two vegetables be cultivated to ad-
vantage, where the other is liable to destruction, by frost. In Louis-
iana, the orange tree ceases about 30° 05' in the delta ot the Mis*
sissippi, and in Attacapas 12 or 15 minutes of latitude more south-
wardly.

There can be no doubt that considerable advantage would be
gained, if the seed of vegetables liable to destruction by frost, wen.
brought frgm as northern a position as possibb. This precaution has
been entirely neglected in Louisiana ; the cotton, cane, and orange.,
have all been imported from within the tropics.

The cause that has the most extensive effects upon the climate,
soil, and health of the inhabitants of Louisiana, is the inundation ot
the Mississippi, and its confluent rivers. From an attentive observa-
tion made during a lapse of many years, the author is well convinced
that the causes and extent of the inundations that annually submerge
the delta of the Mississippi river, have hitherto been very much mis-
understood. During the time that elapsed from 1806 to 1814, the
author of this work was every season actively employed in surveying
in and near the overflowed lands of the Mississippi, Atchafalaya and
Red rivers, and observed the various phenomena of the inundations,
as they presented themselves. A calculation of the ground now lia-
ble to actual submersion, will, from its small area, excite astonish-
ment in the minds of those who believe whole countries are every
year laid under water.

The distance in width from the high lands on the east, to those on the
west side of the Mississippi, is, from the 33D N lat. to the mouth of the
Red river, at a medium, twenty miles. At two points, the island of

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 13

Sicily and Providence lake, the overflown lands are contracted to
Ie.~ than twelve miles in a direct line from the margin of the Missis-
sippi. Above the mouth of Red river the medium width of the over-
flown lands may be assumed at twenty miles ; this will yield be-
tween 31° and 33° N. lat. 2770 square miles. Below 21° N. lat. as
far as the efflux of Lafourche, about 80 miles in length, the extent
of the inundation does not vary much from 40 in breadth, giving
3200 square miles area. All the country below the efflux of the
Lafourche, is reached by the overflow of the Mississippi river, and is
equal to 2370 square miles : this latter sum, added to the two former,
gi*es S340 square miles as the entire overflow of the Mississippi in
the state of Louisiana ; and if to this, be added 2550 square miles
for the inundated lands of Red river, the whole superficies in the state
liable to overflow, will amount to 10,890 square miles. Of this extent,
not one half is actually covered annually with water. The immedi-
ate banks of almost all the streams are seldom, and many of them
never inundated. There are sufficient data to establish the fact,
that the actuaily overflowed parts of the state of Louisiana, fall short
ot 4000 square miles, or less than one twelfth part of the whole
surface of the state. In the state of Mississippi, the inundation is
so confined in its width, and so often interrupted entirely by the
projecting bluffs, that it does not exceed, if it indeed amounts to
1000 square miles. Thus the entire surface of country to which the
inundations extend, falls sho t of 12,000, and the area absolutely sub-
merged, of 6000 square miles; being less than the eighteenth part
of the two states of Mississippi and Louisiana.

Amongst the many unfounded conclusions that have been drawn,
relative to most parts of America, several of the most absurd relate
to the phenomena attending the Mississippi. Mr. Hutchins consider-
ed floating timber as one of the principal causes of the changes in
the course of that river, and this opinion, though obviously contra-
dictory to the common laws of nature, has been transcribed into
almost every work on the subject since its first publication. To
any person who has visited and examined with any circumspection
the operations of nature in the delta of the Mississippi, the causes of
change will appear to lie much deeper, and to be more efficacious,
than floating trees. He will also find, that the changes themselves
have been overrated beyond measure. There is not the smallest
trace of evidence in the country, to justify the conclusion that the
Mississippi has ever flowed in a channel very diffeient from that in
which it is now confined. The lakes in its vicinity are all evidently
remains ot former bends of the river ; they differ essentially from
other lakes of the country. Lake Providence, Yazuo, St. Joseph,
St. John, Concordia, Homochitta, and Fausse riviere, have traits
of resemblance to the present bends of the river, and to each other ;
but their appearance entirely differs from Pontchatrain, Mausepas,
Chetimaches, and the lakes in the inundated lands of Red river.

The entire delta has, no doubt, been formed*by the alluvion borne
down by the surplus water of the various rivers that flow over it,
principally the Mississippi ; hut the streams themselves are as much
confined to constant channels as other rivers, The idea that the ri^

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

vers of Louisiana flow upon a ridge, has arisen from inattention to
their depth. The country included in the delta has so little incli-
nation, that the water can only flow from the gravity and impure
of the euperincu nbent mass, and the surplus, after escaping from the
channels of the rivers, finding an immediate level, rests and accu-
mulates on the adjacent land. These are the true causes of the in-
undation.

The rapidity of the entire body of water in the Mississippi has
been also overrated, to more than five or six times its real motion.
That this error has been made, every person may be convinced, who
will carefully compare the various accounts, given in our books of
geography and travels, with the time that actually elapses between
the breaking up of the snows towards the heads of the Ohio, Mis-
sissippi and Missouri, and the passage of the water over the delta
to the gulf of Mexico. I have drawn the following table, in order
to exhibit the length and respective climates, from which flow the
various branches of the Mississippi ; and to illustrate the causes that
produce, and the seasons of inundation.

■incipal streams that
ntribute to form the
ississippi river.

stance of their mouths
>m that of the Mis-
sippi.

Distances of their
urces from the mouth
the Mississippi.

'3
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-Jted river

300

1^50

37° N.

February

Arkansaw

650

2300

41° N.

March

White river

630

1300

36°. N.

February

Ossage

1350

2100

36° N.

February'

Kansas

1550

3400

40° N.

March

Platte

1800

2900

42° N.

April

Missouri

1200

4000

45° n!

April

Yellow stone

8050

3900

43 N.

April

Bighorn

3300

3800

42° N.

April

Mississippi'

1200

2300

48° N.

May

Illinois

1215

1700

42° N.

April

Wabash

1150

1650

41° N.

May

Tennessee

1050

1750

31° N.

February

Ohio

1000

3200

42° N.

March

S6,050

The times of the year when the various streams commence their
greatest flood, as stated in the table, are merely approximate; con-
siderable variances take place in different years. In the years 1800
and 1801, the Mississippi did not overflow its banks. The ordinary
time of extreme high water is at Natchez, the fifteenth of June, and
at New Orleans, the first week in July. Calculating the velocity of
the water in the various rivers by the distance and times of flowing
from their sources, the medium motion falls short of 20 miles in

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 13

iwenty-four hours. The lower waters of the Ohio drains out in
February, hut those of the Monongebela, Alegbany, Muskingum
and Keubawa, do not reach in common years their height, before
the first of March. The distance from the mouth of Kenhawa to
Natchez is nearly 1300 miles. The waters in passing over this space
occur/y about 100 days.

The current, as it is usually understood, is the motion of the up-
per part of the stream, A boat floating only during the day, or one
half of the time, will, by taking advantage of the current, always
pass the apex of the flood. The motion of the current, and entire
mass of water, differ in all rivers ; in that of the Mississippi, the re-
lative difference of 6 to 1, would perhaps be but little variant from
the reality.

From an inspection of any good map of North America, it will at
once appear, that from their position, and from the various climates
tbey 'raverse, that the waters of all the branches of the Mississippi
must drain gradually. The fact is consonant to the theory. ' There-
fore if the motion of the body of water was not very slow, no in-
undation of the delta of the Mississippi could happen, as there would
not he time for an accumulation to take place.

There are few subjects where correct opinion would lead to more
beneficial consequences, than respecting the floods of the Mississippi.
If the inhabitants couid be made sensible o( the true causes of the
overflow, it would prepare their minds to consent to the adoption of
more effectual preventives, than any that they have yet attempted.

To gain clear conceptions on this subject, it is necessary to con-
sider the water at the time of the highest flood, as in reality divided
into three parts; that part which flows in the natural channels of the
rivers; that which composes the overflow • and that part which lies
stagnant in lakes, ponds and the inundated bottoms.

Of the surcharge from the Mississippi river, four-fifths leave that
stream by the efflux of the Atchafalaya. The latter river is 111
yards wide, where it leaves the former, and its extreme depth 15 or
20 feet. Through this passage no water leaves the Mississippi except
in the time of freshes

At its efflux, the current of the Atchafalaya is very rapid, but
gradually abates as it proceeds in its course, and assumes, about ten
or twelve miles from the Mississippi, amotion not essentially different
from 'Jie latter stream. After the Mississippi floods have fallen be-
neath the ordinary banks, the Atchafalaya becomes completely stag-
nant in all its length. Often the tides, though never more than 2£
or 3 feet in the gulf of Mexico, flow up the Atchafalaya within
thirty miles of its efflux. The author was an eye-witness to this ef-
fect in the years 1807, 1803,»2309 and 1810. He also saw with
pleasure and astonishment, in October, 1808, at the lower extremity
of the large raft, the water of the Atchafalaya extremely transparent.
The change from the turbid appearance of the stream in the spring
and summer of the same year, was really striking. The limpid
state of the water arose from its remaining a considerable time to-
tally tranquil. A few days reversed the scene ; the Mississippi over-
lowed in the latter part of October ; ip November, excessive rains

W EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

fell, and the uSual features of an inundated country exhibited them-
selves.

From the mouth of the Mississippi river a strong current sets west-
wardly along the shores of the Mexican gull, carrying with it the tim-
ber brought down by that stream. That this current is uniform is
proved by the fact, that none of the debris thrown into the gulf by
the Mississippi is found to the northeast of the mouth of that river,
whilst to the west the whole coast is strewed with cotton wood, cypress,
and other trees, with rails, planks, pieces of flat bottom boats, and in
fact wood in all the forms into which it is generally wrought, and left
exposed to be swept away by the flood.

When the author was at the mouth of the Sabine in December,,
1812, he had full leisure and means of examining the coast of the Mex-
ican gulf. Near the mouth of the Sabine and Calcasiu rivers, no
timber is found but what is cast on shore by the tides, and trunks of
the largest trees are often found lying upon the strand.

It would appear from an inspection of a map of the gulf of Mexico,
and Caribbean sea, that the current flows from the latter into the
former, between Cape St. Antoine, and assuming a northern direction,
reaches the shore of Florida, between the Apalachicola and Mobile
rivers, and there divides ; one part traversing the western shore of
East Florida, encounters and is carried away by the gulf stream, be-
tween Florida Point and the island of Cuba ; but much the largest
mass turns to the west, passes along West Florida, Alabama territory,
the state of Mississippi, Louisiana, and the province of Texas, until
reaching the bay of St. Joseph, it winds with the coast to the south,
along the shores of the vice-royalty of Mexico, and finally sweeping
the bay of Campeachy, and the western and northern shores of Yucu-
tan, meets the current from which it originated. This current is the
parent of the gulf stream, and divides the gulf of Mexico into two
immense, but unequal whirlpools.

Admixed with the masses of timber along the shores are found
pumice-stone, in fragments from the size of a pea to that of a flour bar-
rel. This substance is no doubt brought from the volcano of Orizaba.
Tropical fruits, leaves and trees, are also found in abundance.

Navigable Strecnns — Roads — Crops — Fruits. — From New-Orleans
to the bar at the mouth of the Mississippi : —

No. 1. Miles

To General Villarefs, 6

To Terre aux Bceufs, 3

English Turn, 2

Fort St. Leon, 5

Gentilly, l

Poin* LeHache, 1

Fort St. Philip, at Plaquemine Bend, 30

Efflux of S. W. Pass, 20

do. South Pass, '

do Pass a le Loutre, -------6

Balize, 6

Bar, .- . 3

The settlements continue jn descending the Mississippi, irom New

6
9
11
16

102

105

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 17

Orleans compactly on both banks of the river to the Point le Hache.
T erre auz Boeufs is a settlement, which is connected w>th those on the
Mississippi, and winds along both banks of a small ancient outlet. The
lands upon the Terre aux Boeufs are excellent. Sugar, cotton, and
cattle are the staples of this settlement, and some fine sugar-houses
are established. The adjacent country towards Lake Borgne an.d
Cha.nde!eur bay is an open grassy morass.

The Terre aux Boeufs abound in excellent live oak, which is in a
state of rapid destruction, occasioned by burning the cane and gras^
intermingled with the trees, and by clearing the land.

Below Terre au Boeuf is the bend of the Mississippi, to which has
been given the name of the English Turn (Detour Anglais). The
cause of this name is known to very few persons. In the early set-
tlement of Louisiana by the French, the English government sent out
a small squadron, consisting of a frigate and one or two other vessels.
This expedition was for the purpose of exploring the Mississippi. The
squadron succeeded in finding the mouth, and ascending the river to
the bend that is now in question. A French officer met the squadron,
and succeeded in persuading the English commander that the stream
that he was then on was not the great Canadian river, as it was then
called, but another of far less consequence ; that the object of his search
was farther westward. In consequence of this information the Eng-
lish officer quitted the Mississippi, and went in search of it to the west;
then finally abandoned the enterprise, and returned to Europe. From
this circumstance the present name arose.*

The manner in which the Mississippi turns at the English Bend cre-
ates some embarrassment to vessels coming up to New Orleans, but
must contribute in time of war to the safety of that city, on account
of the difficulty of passing it with the same wind by which it is ap-
proached.

The bend of the Plaquemine, (Perssinon,) opposes the same kind of
obitacle to commerce as that of the English Turn, and will be always
even more efficacious in arresting the advance of an enemy. From
the nature of the adjacent shores, an army could be disembarked be-
low the English Turn, on either bank, and pass the forts ; but at St.
Philip, the swamps approach so near the margin of the river, that
to pass with artillery unexposed, would be extremely difficult. The
value of Fort St. Philip was made manifest in the last war between the
United States and Great Britain.

Below Plaquemine, all possibility of settlement for agricultural pur-
poses ceases ; and excepting some fishermen's huts, and the residence
of the pilots at the Balize, no human habitation is seen. Some scat-
tered clumps of trees are found along the shore, but the general sur-
face of the little land that rise3 above the water is marsh prairie. The
aspect of the country is lifeless and dreary, and even the low, grass-
constructed cabins of the fishermen contribute to the melancholy ap-
pearance of the scene. On leaving the mouth of the Mississippi, you
almost imagine yourself to have passed the last verge of terrestrial ex
istence.

* LaHarpe.

18 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

There are six outlets to the Mississippi ; the west, southwest, soutfa,
main, or northeast, north, and Pass a la Loutre. Of these, the north-
west, and northeast, have each about an equal depth of water, viz.
twelve feet, on their respective bars. The west pass has nine feet,
the south eight, and the north, and Pass a la Loutre also, about eight
feet water.

At present only the pass of the northeast is used extensively ; more
than nineteen twentieths of the vessels that enter or leave the Mississip-
pi, pass by this route.

It has been an interesting subject of inquiry, how far the mouth of
the Mississippi would admit of improvement. Serious attention to the
subject has been prevented, as have many other practicable improve-
ments, by the erroneous idea that the channels are extremely changea-
ble, and that a rapidly increasing alluvion would retard and ulti-
mately destroy the fruits of any labour and expense employed to
deepen the channels over the bars of this great river.

The author of this treatise measured and sounded the west, south-
west and main, or northeast passes, and could not perceive even a pos-
sibility of a very rapid accumulation of earth. Within thirty feet of
the bar in the southwest pass, in the outside, there is five fathom wa-
ter. The inside shoals more gradually. The other passes exhibited
nearly similar features. In all, in the inside, at the distance of a
quarter of a mile, there is four fathom water.

The bottom is every where a hard tough tenacious clay. There is
every reason to believe, that at no great expense, double rows of piles
could be driven, leaving space between for the largest vessels, and that
the earth could be scooped out between, and the channel deepened
sufficiently to admit ships of the line to enter.

There is nothing hazardous in the prediction, that within less than
half a century, millions of acres of land, now abandoned to the waters,
will be reclaimed, and made the residence of man, and that ships will
sail into the Mississippi, of a draught greater by far, than any that can
at this time either enter or leave this invaluable stream. More correct

and more liberal conceptions of improvement, will expel the apatliy
that now prevails in that country, which is destined to reap the richest

fruits, afforded by the commercial and agricultural facilities by the

Mississippi.

No. 2.
From New Orleans to Mobile and Blakely : — Miles.

Fort St. John,

Point aux Herbes,

Fort Petites Coquilles,

Western mouth of the Rigolets, ....

Eastern mouth of the Rigolets, -

Isles aux Malheureux, -

St Joseph's Island,

Marianne Island, opposite the mouth of the bay of St. Louis,

Pass of Christian, opposite Cat-Island,

Mid-channel, between Biloxi Bay and Ship-Island,

Opposite Dog-Island, _.._.-

Western end of Dog-Island, -----

• 91

2<J

Opposite the mouth of Pascagoula, - - - jq

Mid-channel, between the eastern end of Horn-Island and

Round-Island, £

Western end of Isle au Petite Bois, fi

Ea>tern end of do. - 7

Western end of Dauphin-Island, ----- 4

Entrance of the Pass aux Herons, - - ... 3

Mobile Bay, 5

Bar opposite Dog-River, - - - - - -15

Entnnce of Spanish-River, ---..__ 5
Head of the Mobile-Island, ------ g

Monde, t

The inside passage from New Orleans to Mobile and Blakely,' _..
of consequence to all the country upon the waters of Mobile, Alaba=
ma, and Tomhigbe'e rivers, is perfectly safe and commodious for small
vessels The depth of water in the passes of Christian and Heron is
not sufficient, in ordinary times, for vessels of more than six feet draught.
The force of the sea is broken by the long peninsula that bounds Lake
Borgne on the southeast and by a chain of islands, consisting of Mal-
heureux-Islands, Marianne Islands, Cat-Island. Ship-Island, Dog-
Island, Horn Island, Isle aux Petites Bois, and Dauphin-Island. The
bottom of this strait is a soft sand. A singular circumstance, commu-
nicated to the author by an intelligent commander of a vessel, respect-
ing the nature of the component parts of the banks upon the islands
and main shore, may be of some use to persons navigating in this place.
The person who made the communication had navigated frequently
between New Orleans and Mobile ; and observed, that in the darkest
night he could always determine on which side of the strait the ves-
sel was in, as along the islands there were no shells mixed with the
sand, whilst broken shells were invariably brought up by the lead
when on the main shore. This information is introduced here, with
the more confidence, because perfectly corresponding with the ob-
servations of the author.

The southern shore of Lake Pontchartrain is low land, scarcely
rising above common tides, with very little timber. There are two
passages from Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne ; the pass of the
Rigolets, and that of Chefmenteur. The latter is of little consequence*
not having more than four feet water on its respective bars.

The Rigolets are properly the mouths of Pearl river, and afford nine
feet water at each extremity. This pass, either in a commercial, na^
val, or military view, is of great consequence ; it is, in fact, after the
Mississippi, the most important inlet of Louisiana, and ought to be
strongly fortified.

Lake Borgne is a prolongation of the strait reaching from the Ri-
golets to Mobile ; it is about 35 miles in length from Cat-Island to the
mouth of Bayou Bienvenu, with a medial width ot twelve miles.
Lake Borgne is chequered with two groups of small islands. Mal-
heureux and Marianne Islands. It is generally extremely shallow.
Excepting a narrow channel running along its northwestern border.

•40 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE;

there is not more (ban two feet water to be found in the whole expanse
of the lake. Lake Borgne is terminated on the N. E. by the beauti-
ful bay St. Louis ; on the east by Cat-Island, and S. E. by a long flat
peninsula already noticed.

There are three passes, from the east extremity of Lake Borgne ;
the pass of Christian, pass of Marianne, and that of the southeast ; the
former is generally, used in navigating between Mobile and New Or-
leans. There is excellent anchorage on the southwest and north of
Cat-Island. The island is itself a mere bank of sand, but might be
rendered of importance by its position. It was to the south of this
island that the British ships of the line lay during the campaign of
1814-15, in Louisiana ; their smaller vessels took shelter on the north
side of the island.

Nearly opposite Cat-Island, and east of St Louis Bay, the coast as-
sumes a totally different aspect from the alluvion of the Mississippi,
Pine woods are now seen extending to the sea-shore, and the surface
of the earth is elevated above the reach of inundation. The soil is
sterile, but the people, of the country are healthy.

There are scattered settlements along the margin of the strait. The
inhabitants raise large stocks of cattle and horses, and make lime and
tar for the supply of New Orleans. The lime is mostly made from
oyster-shells, and is of excellent quality.

Two rivers of considerable consequence fall into this channel, the
Pearl and Pascagoula. The settlements on these rivers are already
respectable, and are increasing in strength and wealth. The naviga-
tion of the Pearl is obstructed by shoals and timber, but it is probable
that without any very considerable expense its navigation might be im-
proved to a great degree. Monticello, in Lawrence county, the pre-
sent seat of government of the stale of Mississippi, stands on the west
bank of the Pearl river at 81° 33' N. lat. being exactly on a due east
line from Natchez.

The Pascagoula affords better navigation than the Pearl. Schooners
drawing five feet water go up to the junction of Leaf and Chickisaw
bay rivers. The general surface of the country below 31° N. lat. and
on the Pearl and Pascagoula, is sterile ; but much good land is to be
met with ; and which admitting the culture of cotton, the settlements
must flourish. Ever since the establishment of the United States go-
vernment, emigrations to this quarter have been continually going on,
but since the conclusion of the last war, the numbers are greatly aug-
mented.

The provisional line between the state of Mississippi and Alabama
territory, terminates on the east side of the estuary of the Pascagoula.
This line follows the general course of the latter river and the Chicki-
sawhay.

East of the Pascagoula to the Mobile, the aspect of the country,
both on the sea-shore and interior, remains unchanged. The islands
are, like Cat-Island, an embankment of sand, chequered with a few
dwarf pines and sea-myrtle bushes. There are passes from the inner
channel to the open gulf, between Cat and Ship-Island, between Dog
and Horn-Island, and between Horn-Island and Petite Bois.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 21

Pass aux Herons, leads into Mobile bay, and is crooked, and the
shallowest water between New Orleans and Mobile or Blakely.

After entering into Mobile bay, the water deepens to 14 feet, which
depth continues to the bar, where it shallows to 1 1 feet. After the
bar is passed, the depth again is found to be about 13 or 14 feet to
either Mobile or Blakely.

Though Mobile was amongst the first places established by the
French after their arrival in the gulf of Mexico, it remained « mere
military post during the existence ef the French and Spanish authori-
ty in Louisiana, After the United States had taken possession of Mo-
bile, as part of West Florida, the town continued, as formerly, of little
cousequence ; but since the events of the last war, which put the fer-
tile and extensive regions on the confluent waters ef the Mobile river
into the hands of the United States, the town then began to have some
importance as a commercial depot. Events have gucceeded in this
quarter with a rapidity that scarcely leavts the mind leisure to pur-
sue the chain with precision. Population has increased rapidly, and
commercial capital accumulated beyond the possible calculation of the
most active foresight. It was at once perceived, after the cession of
the adjacent country to the United States, that a depot must be sought
upon or in the vicinity of the Mobile bay. Various places were se-
lected by different persons. Mobile, Blakely, Fort Stoddert, Fort Su
Stephens, and Fort Claiborne, have all their advocates. There can
be but little doubt that the rivalry must rest between Mobile and
Blakely; the facility of approach from the sea must decide the contest.
The depth of water to either place is nearly equal. Both towns are
§ituated on elevated, solid, and dry banks of the bay.

It is pleasing to behold the emulation of industry and peace, to see
new towns, farms and manufactories, rising, where silence and desola-
tion reigned twenty years past, and where only five years have elapsed
since that siience was broken by the din of arms, and where cruel
massacre stained the earth with the blood of the most innocent and
helpless part of the human race.

The region watered by the Mobile river, and its confluent streams,'
has gained, within one or two years past, an attention from the Ameri-
can and foreign emigrant, that the softness of the climate and the ex-
treme variety of the soil will long preserve. There are many ex-
tremely valuable vegetables not yet introduced into the United States,
which might, from the great diversity of seasons, soil and climate, be
easily cultivated with advantage. There is, perhaps, scarcely one
vegetable ever reared out of the tropics, that might not, in some situa-
tion or other, be brought to maturity in the United States.

There is one branch of geographical science, and that the most im-
portant, which is neglected ; namelj, the local residence of vegetables.
Animals, from their locomotion and the warmth of their blood, can ne-
ver be a correct thermometer of climate ; whilst vegetables, from their
fixity, and from their liability, of many species, to perish by the action
of cold, are the true tests that disclose the changes and the character
of any given climate. MAN, the horse, the dog, the common poultry,
and some other of the gregarious animals which have submitted to do-
mesticity, are found in almost every part of the globe ; the bear an<5

ii£ EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

fox, amongst the still untamed species of animals, are met vvith,
wherever man has yet penetrated

V ejre.'.toles, though less flexible than animals, yet, where one of each
kingdom vire acclimated together, the vegetable can support much the
most severe cold ; bat when transported to a new and more northern
residence, directly the reverse effect is produced.

A work that would embrace a clear, detailed, and accurate history
of the emigrations and locality of vegetables, would be an acquisition
of inappreciable value to mankind.

Ever since the cession of the wide region of Louisiana to the United
States, the important question, whether any of this country will admit
the culture of the vine and olive, has been agitated. This very inte-
resting inquiry is now in train, to lead to decisive results. The Uni-
ted States' government has granted to a company of French emigrants
a tract of land, in order to make the necessary essay. We have
thought it not irrelevant to give, in this volume, a sketch of compara-
tive geography, in order to enable the emigrant to form his own con-
clusions, on the probabilities of success, and upon the judgment of those
who selected the spot, where the views of a liberal government were
to be carried into effect.

The government of the United States, by an act of congress, has
granted to a company of French emigrants at a maximum price of two
dollars per acre, four contiguous townships, or 92,160 acres of land,
to be located on lands ceded by the Creek nation of Indians to the
United States. The condition of this grant is, that the emigrants
shall introduce the culture of the vine and olive.

Of all the vegetables cultivated by man in other countries, and not
yet introduced into the United States, the most valuable are the vine,
olive, and white mulberry. Wine, the olive, and silk, have been brought,
each one, to the greatest perfection in the vicinity of one another.

Though there are many circumstances in which a considerable con-
trast does exist, yet there are many features in which the south of
France and that of the United States have a striking resemblance. In
determining whether any given vegetable can be introduced into cli-
mates to which it is a stranger, much trouble and expense might be
saved by a strict examination of the respective characters of the soil
and seasons from whence the plant is taken, with those into which
it is to be introduced.

To give this interesting subject as much perspicuity as possible,
their local position in Europe, particularly in France, where the vine,
olive, and white mulberry are cultivated, is given in this treatise, and
the account has been drawn from the most respectable authority, and
is now presented to the reader, in comparis n with Louisiana, Missis-
sippi, and Alabama. It may be remarked en passant, that from the
time the ark rested on mount Ararat, to the present day, wine has
never been made to any great perfection upon tiie alluvial soil of large
rivers. The following translations from the most authentic works
will be the best illustration of this assertion

•• That part of Champagne, so renowned for its vineyards, is one
of the most sterile parts of France. It presents an unbroken plain,
Where you meet almost every where fragments of chalk, or red sand-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 23

iiione, with little earth, and some fossil shells. The view is only oc-
casionally relieve J by a few small bushes, or trees in a lansuishine
state."* &

" It is remarkable that the culture of the vine, after heing attempted
in every part of the basin of the Seine, remains confined to the parts
most distant from the sea, such as the former province of the Isle of
France and Champaigne. When it is observed, that Normandy is
traversed by the 49° N. latitude, the same parallel in which ire
found the vineyards of Epernay, the absence of this precious
plant in Normandy cannot be attributed to mere difference of lati-
tude.,r|

" They distinguish in Burgundy, two parts in respect to wine ; the
high and the low. Lower Burgundy is a very extensive vineyard, that
contains several cantons, renowned for their red and while wine, The
wine of Lower Burgundy is amongst the best in France, little inferior
to that of Higher Burgundy, which it even sometimes excels The
wines of Higher Burgundy are the best in humid, those ot Lower Bur-
gundy, in dry season^. As in ten years there is scarcely one dry,
it tollows, that ordinarily the wines of Higher have an advantage over
those of the Lower Burgundy. "J

" Uauphiny : — Climate — Productions. — Between the river Rhone,
the lake of Geneva, Mount Ventoux, and the Alps, is situated Dau-
phiny. This region is of very unequal elevation, from 1 1.700 to 500
feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea. The exposures and
inclinations ot the land vary to infinity, from the profound Alpine val-
leys, deprived for several consecutive months of direct solar light, to
the renowned vineyards that bear so justly the title of Cofe Ro:ie.§
In the neighbourhood of Briancon, the snow remains often seven or
eight months together in the valleys. Summer, itself, is here subject
to violent winds, that often bring a freezing cold. Hurricanes and
sleet constantly menace the hopes of the cultivator. Mount Lion, for-
merly Mount Dauphin, in the Higher Alps, situated 45° 20' N. lat.
has the climate of Sweden."j|

" Anjou, Tourraine, Orieanois, Berri, and Basse-Auvergne. pro-
duce good wine, though the culture is not very skilfully managed.
The vineyards here display many exceptions to the general rule ; ac-
cording to which, southeast exposure is the only one favourable to the
vine.''

The following is a singular instance of the unity with which nature
pursue* her operations. There are two situations in the southern
parts ot the United States where the native grape vines produce excel-
lent fruit. One is the dry sides of pine ridges — the other the sandy
banks of streams. In what may be called a deep vegetable loam, col-
lected as alluvion or otherwise, if siiicious sand is absent, the grape-
vine is absent also, in most cases.

-' ! £52VSP?1 Geo?™Phy by M. M. Mentelle and Make Brun Vol. XVI. p. 34.
* Ibid Vol. VI p 503. v

| Ibid. Vol. VIL p. 60.

§ Literally, toast and butter ; figuratively, milk and honey,
tl Universal Geography, by M. M. Menttlle and Malte Brun, Vol. VI. p. 5V$,

24 EMIGRANTS GUIDE,

Chaptal, in the~General Statistics of France, remarks, that the fine
wines called the Hermitage, are produced in a granitic sand.

One well established fact is of more value than a thousand theories*
There is a general principle upon which all authers who have written
upon the subject of the vine, seem to consider incontestable, namely,
that, to produce good wine, the soil upon which the vines grow, must
be sandy. This concurrence will appear more striking in the sequel
of this treatise.

An excellent French work, entitled " Cours d' Agriculture," by the
Abbe Rozier, under the word olive, describes the tree, and explains
the nature of the soil and situation most suitable for its culture. The
above work is entitled to great credit on this subject ; it was compiled
by a judicious, well-informed man, who resided in the country, and of
course had access to the most respectable sources of information. We
have translated and inserted in this work the most essential part of the
information necessary to enable the American experimentalist to form
correct analogical deductions.

Before entering upon the subject ef the culture of the olive, we have
given the Abbe Rozier's description of the great basins of France.
We have translated this excellent article nearly Jiterally, as it con-
tains not only the locality of the olive, but of the vine also, and will
serve as a true basis upon which accurate comparisons may be made
between the climate of France and that of the United States.

" By basin Is understood that body of land over which a river draws
tts waters ; thus the line that separates one river from another ought
to be more elevated than the rivers themselves, in order to determine
the slope upon which the rivers flow. Thus the chain of mountains
that traverses the Vivarais, le Forez, and Bourbonois, and from which
the waters flow ©n one side, towards the Atlantic ocean, and on the
other towards the Mediterranean sea, affords an example of this kind.
The same peculiarity is again found in the mountains of Lower Lan-
guedoc. We may, then, in general say that France is divided into
two great basins ; but the discrimination offers nothiBg upon which de-
terminate conclusions can be formed.

" The extentof the great basins comprehends often several provinces,
and sometimes divides a province into two parts ; because the divi-
sion of the kingdom into provinces, is traced by the hand of man,
whilst those of the basins are designed and fixed by the hand of na-
ture*

* The profound philosophical remark contained in this contrast, ought to be
kept in view by all men who make the science of geography their study. . JNo-
thing is more common or more absurd, than the usual mode of expression re-
specting any given territorial division ; that sueh a country is cold, warm, moist*
dry, level, billy, mountainous, barren, or fertile, is in the mouths of the greatest
part of mankind ; whilst, in fact, there are but few political divisions of any con-
siderable extent that do not contain parts deserving, respectively, all those cha>
lacteristics.

There is an ulter impossibility of becoming perfect in geographical knowledge
unless the student commences by studying the natural divisions, and understand-
ing them comprehensively, before attending to artificial lines of demarkation.
'i'here exists no country where this course is more necessary than th» United
States, because there are none where less respect has been paid to the naUira?
divisions,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 2J

tettsiri of the Rhone, and co?ifluent rivers. — "The rivers in this
basin, flow from the north or east, relative to their ijenerai mouths,
and enter the sea to the south. This basin is perfectly character-
ized by the great chains of elevated mountains that circumscribe it
on all sides, except towards- the mouth of the Rhone. It is clearly
visible that the river has successively undermined, destroyed, and
overturned the chain of rocks, and opened a passage ; and that the
chain was formerly continuous from Nismes to Aries.

" If it was intended to make the tour of this basin, it would be ne-
cessary to depart from the most southern and nearest point, to the
mouth of the Rhone ; and advancing eastward, the prolongation of
the chain of the Alps would be encountered. This chain covers Aix,
Marseilles, Toulon, and Grasse. From the former town, mounting
almost perpendicularly to the north, would be found Senez, Digne,
Embrun, Barcelonette, and St. Jeande-Morienn* ; all built on the
Alps. It would be necessary to traverse the lake of Geneva, leav-
ing the high Alps on the right, which form at their base a particular
basin, of which the lake of Geneva is the reservoir, and discharge.
You would then behold the Alps, confounded with the mountains of
St. Cloud, known by the name of Mount Jura, rising above Besan-
con and Mountbeliard. To the north of the basin of the Rhone,
the mountains traverse Lorraine. From Bedfort, you would tra-
verse chains of mountains lower than either the Alps or Mount Jura,
of which it is, however, an embranchment. This last chain winds
to the south, towards Langres, to Dijon, Lyons, Vivarais, Alais, and
Nismes, and from Nismes to the Med iter ran em sea. There you
would find a recent alluvion, forrned by the waters of the sea, and
which daily increases. Such is the first great basin of France, form-
by the Rhone and its confluent rivers.

" This basin is divided by a chain of secondary mountains, into
two very strongly contrasted portions. This secondary chain is
lower than the Alps.

" The Rhone flows from the east to the west, and then pursuing a
right line to the south, forms the above separation in bathing the
foot of Mount Jura, that of the mountains of Bugey, and afterwards
those of the Lyonois and Vivarais.

" There results, from these two grand divisions, two climates of very
different temperature. The right, or highest division, is almost, every
where, three or four degrees colder than Lyons. I speak particular-
ly of the plains, because all the lower part of the second basin is
completely sheltered from the north winds, from Lyons to the sea.

" The prevailing heat of the first basin does not arise from its
proximity to the south; but from the mass and extent of the high
mountains which shelter it on all sides ; and from the same cause
proceeds the difference in its culture and production. All the rivers
that traverse the higher division of this basin, have a slow current ;
they descend upon almost imperceptible slopes, from mountains,
where heavy rains fall almost every day. Their overflowings bring
down, and deposit in the plains, a fertile mud ; a manure that may
be compared to that which the Nile leaves upon its banks. From
this manure spring the rich meadows of Franche Compt£, Burgurr?
4

26 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

dy, and Beaujolois ; and those abundant fields, where, in traversing'
these provinces, the eye contemplate* the harvest with delight.

" Vines* and wine, of high reputation, are often met with in the
higher parts of the basin of the Rhone ; but the major part of the.
inhabitants do not attend to the circumstance, that these vines, so
renowned, are sheltered by hills and mountains. If you would sup-
pose, for instance, that the chain of mount Afrique, above Dijou, was
reduced to a plain, what would become of the fine vineyards of
Rochepot and Beaune ? — The fact is, that their excellent quality
arises from the shelter that defends them, and which augments the
necessary heat. The texture of the earth in which they grow de-
cides the taste of these vines.

" The Saone, Durgeon, Ougnon, Doux, and Seille, enliven, enrich,
and embellish the higher part of the basin ; the cultivated part of the
mountains here owes every thing to art, and the unremitted labour
that supports it. There are only seen, on every side, naked rocks,
sand and gravel. The Rhone, and all the rivers that fall into its
bosom, have rapid, precipitous, and impetuous currents ; such are
the features of the rivers Ain, Isere, Drome, Durance, and Gardou ;
and thus over all the extent, from Lyons to the sea, you can know,
by the mass of sand, what rivers have contributed to swell the main
Stream. The mud from the Saone is always yellow and fertile ;
the Rhone exhibits white sand, dry and unmixed with the earth, and
extremely quartzose ; that of the Isere is brown and schistose ;
that of the Durane and Drome, dry and arid.

" If you glance your eye over the chains of mountains that traverse
the lower division of the basin of the Rhone, from east to west, you
will find that, as in the higher division, the temperature of the cli-
mate is less influenced by approximation to the fourth, than from
the shelter afforded by the mountains. We have already observed,
that the common mass of heat is three or four degrees higher at Ly
ons than at Dole or Besancon. Below Lyons, the temperature
varies sensibly in about ten leagues. Lyons \c sheltered on the north
by the elevated mount D'Or; Vienne, by a chain cut by the Rhone,
and re-united to that of the Lyonois ; Tournon and Thain, at the
foot of, and environed by rocks, have only the Rhone between
them. Here the pomegranate begins to be planted in hedges, as
divisions between the farms. The chain of Mount Pilate covers this
place from the winds of the north. Montelimar is equally shel-
tered by a very high mountain. On turning from Montelimar, to as-
cend the Rhone, the olive tree is no more seen ; here is its limit :
some have escaped the severe winter of 1766, but the mountains
and hills, worn down by incessant rains, and beaten by the violent
winds, peculiar to this climate, are greatly lowered, and the olive
trees, exposed to the violent winds of the north, have perished.*

* We would here en<; eat the most serious attention of the experimentalist,
who intends to iutroduce, into the southern parts of the United States, vegeta-
bles liable to destruction by frost. Timely precaution in choice of posiiion,
and often a prudential reservation of woods, would aid very essentially in the
laudable attempt to add to the resources of human existence and comfort.

No man of the most common habits of observation, who lias resided a
•miniber of years in ot near the delta of the Mississippi, but will acknowledge

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 2;

"The chain of St. Esprit, as well as that of Mount Ventoux, in the
Comtat d'Avignon, presents a new climate. We ought to regard
each of these divisions, and each of these climates, as a particular
basin ; distinguished respectively by the intensify of the heat, or
diversity and quality of their productions.

" These qualities are particularly distinct in the wines. Those of
St. Troy, Millery, Charly, near Lyons, Cote Rotie, near Vietine,
^be Hermitage, at Tbain, St. Peret and Comas, opposite Valence,
and Chateau-neuf-duPape, have all their particular characters so
strongly marked, that they cannot be mistaken ; characters that are
derived from their shelters, and from the grape plants that are
cultivated.

" After having traversed all the lower parts of the great basin of the
Rhone, and the rivers that it receives, if you then follow the moun
tains from chain to chain, you will perceive, that at equal heights, the
cultivations and productions are every where the same. The spruce
of the Alps of Mount Jura is again found upon Mount Pilate.
The pines of the less elevated mountains make almost the contour
of this great basin. Little or no wheat, much rye, buck-wheat, and
potatoes, are the principal objects of culture. Their fruits are
tardy in production, but are articles of transportation into the plains^
particularly the apple, as well as the different kinds of chestnut,
whose taste is excellent.

" The chains of mountains divided and subdivided, and forming
thousands of valleys, presenting delicious meadows, whose grasses
are fine, short, and aromatic.

" The numerous flocks of cattle, sheep, and goats, consume in sum-
mer these fine pastures, and furnish enormous cheeses, known in
Franche Compte by the name of Vachelin, and which are made in
the same manner as those of Gruyeres. Every canton produces
cheeses, that have peculiar qualities, but all are excellent, because
the pastures are elevated. Observe the general advantage that each
part of the basin claims, from its local position.

Basin of the Seine. — « The mountain of the town of Langres forms
the point of demarkation of three basins ; that of the Pthone, the
Meuse, and the Seine ; all have their sources to the south and south-
east, relatively to their general estuary. The variations in climate,
culture, and productions of this basin, are less striking than are
those of the basin of the Rnone ; because in the former, the chains
of mountains are less elevated than in the latter, and also dimi-
nishes in height, as they accompany the courses of the rivers which
flow trom them ; and lastly, because in the lower part ot the basin
they are merely high hills.

"The reason may be easily perceived why, at Laon and Rheims.
the inhabitants make good wine, though these two towns are as far
north as Rouen and Havre, where the vine does not receive sufficient
warmth tor the developement of its growth or maturity of its fruit.

the correctness of this advice. The sugar cane, potato, maize, rice, the
oran?e tree, and, indeed, every plant or tree whose juices are decomposable
by trost, will afford examples how rapidly climate is influenced by hills,
woods, prairies, and the courses of rivers

28 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

" Departing from the chain that covers Autun,and advancing north
to Laugres, the mountains become very high, and Langres is the
most elevated town in the kingdom. Leaving Langres, and con-
tinuing north, the chain divides to the right ; it joins the mountains
of Lorraine, and to the left forms the eastern part of the basin
of the Seine. This left branch passes by Chaumont in Bassigny,
Joinvilie, Bar-le-Duc, Rheins, aud Rhetel, to Guise, which latter
town is the northern point of the basin. The mountain then divides
into four embranchments, forming a kind of cross. We have already
spoken of one part ; the second runs from south to north, and reaches
Cambresis ; the third directs its course towards Calais; and the
fourth, winding westward, is lost at Havre de Grace : it covers Noyn,
Beauvais, Rouen, Caudebec, and Paris. Crossing the Seine, at
Havre, you would encounter a chain of hills, which, in returning
south, would gradually rise as far as Autun, tire point from which we
set out in our survey of this basin. Point- Audemer, Verneuil, Mor-
tagne, Chartres, Pithiviers, Montargis, Chateau Chinon, and ..lastly
Autunv would be visited in this transit.

" The basin of the Seine ought to be subdivided into two parts,
from the embranchment drawn from Laon to Nevers : passing by
Epernay, Sezane, Sens, Joigny, and Auxerre, it would be easy, in
following this line, to recognise the embranchments. It is from the
advantage of these shelters, that these climates produce excellent
wine.; less spirituous, it may be granted, than those of the higher di-
vision of the basin of the Rhone, and these again less generous than
those of the lower division of the latter basin. We do not speak
here of the delicacy or aroma of these wines, but of the spirit
drawn from them by distillation. It ought, however, to be remember-
ed, that the approximation to the south ought to be brought into the
calculation ; but we have already remembered, when speaking ,of
the basin of the Rhone, the effects from variety in temperature arise
Jess from southern distance than from the local shelteis afforded by
the mountains.

" In proportion as the shelters are depressed in the lower division
o( the basin of the Seine, the wines deteriorate in quality ; they be-
come flat and weak, as in the environs of Paris, and along the banks
of the Seine from Paris to Rouen. In fine, the more the shelter
from the north winds sink in elevation, the heat diminishes in its in-
tensity, aud the grape often cannot ripen from the early frost. Ci-
der has supplied the place of wine, since the thirteenth century, ill
Normandy *

" The apples from which is produced the cider of Normandy, was

* It may be doubted, if known facts are consulted, whether wines and the
apple Iree will ever flourish in the same place. Good apples are often pro-
duced near Natchez, on the hills east of the Mississippi; but though that re-
gion is no doubt, of all places, contiguous to the delta of the Mississippi, most
suitable to the culture of the apple tree, it is there, notwithstanding the eleva-
tion of .the land, exposed to a too intense sun, and when its fruit is of good
quality, the circumstance is a deviation from the ordinary course of nature.

There are many places on the higher parts of the Mississippi state, where the
traveller will find soil and situation, remarkably analogous to the best win*
gauntries of France,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 29

ftj the first instance transplanted from Spanish Navarre ; they are in-
digenous in the neighbourhood of Pampeluna ; and if not ingrafted
in Normandy, they produce bad cider.'

" The rivers that flow in the basin of, and which contribute to form
the Seine, are the Yonne, Ouin, Aure, Oise, Armancon, and the
Marne. Let any person examine carefully the banks of these rivers,
and he can form an accurate estimate of the alluvial deposit that can be
formed from them ,* and of the degree of fertility of those deposites.
Suppose, for instance, that the basin of the Seine was insolated, from
Paris to Rouen, and confined to the Seine, properly so called, the
deposites would have been sterile, because the river flows through si-
licious sand, and silex is injurious to vegetation. If any earthy de-
posites are found, they are due to the Yonne, Oise, and Marne.

" Wine forms the principal object of culture in the higher parts of
this basin. Chalk is opposed to the culture of small grain, and there
is no comparison between the culture of the latter in the higher and
lower part of this basin. The chalk retains too much water, or
rather the water cannot penetrate and divide it, to enable the roots
of vegetables to penetrate the soil. These provinces are happy in
being watered by frequent rain, and not exposed to the common and
long droughts experienced in the southern provinces, since, if such
was the case, the chalky soil would be entirely unproductive.

Basin of the Loire. — " This basin, like the preceding, has two very
distinct parts, the higher and lower. The higher comprehends the
mountains of the Limosin, Auvergne, Horez, and Vivarais. This
chain presents the same productions as does those of Daupbiny and
Franche Compt^.

" Buck-weat, rye, and potatoes, with a little hemp, are the products
of those mountains. Though supplied with excellent shelters, the too
great elevation will not permit the vine to ripen its fruit ; and except
some privileged cantons in very deep valleys, there are no vines.

* If the estuary of any river is scientifically examined, an estimate can at
once be made of the general character of the country it waters. All rivers,
whose mouths form low, flat , and protruded alluvial depositions, flow through
fertile regions, the soil of which is light, and easily detached from its native
place of formation. All rivers, on the other hand, whose discharge to their re-
spective seas, are wide bays, flow through rocky or hard barren silicious soil.

Of the former class of rivers, the most remarkable are, in Asia, the Wolga,
Ganges, andBurrampooter; in Africa, the Nile; in Europe, thePo, and Danube,
and in America, the Mississippi, Oronoco, and Amazon. Of the latter, the most
prominent examples in Asia are the Euphrates, Oby, and Jenisea; in Africa
there are none of consequence ; in Europe, the Elbe, Weser and Tagus; in
America, the St. Lawrence, almost all the rivers upon the southeastern slope o.''
the United States; the Mobile, Colorado of the gulf of Calafornia, and Rio de
la Plate.

There are many shades of resemblance between rivers of these two classes*
that approximate* them to each other; but the general principle is not affected.
Who ever has gained a correct detailed knowledge of the physiognomy of the
region near the mouth of any given river, has gained also a very correct gene-
ral knowledge of the country from which the river drew its waters.

Too much attention cannot be given to this branch of topographical inquiry,
as many false conclusions may be prevented or obviated, by preserving a rule
so simple, and which will scarce ever deceive It will be seen, when our at-
tention is turned to the eastward of the Mississippi, how general the principle
will admit of application to practical experience.

39 EMIGRANTS GUIDE.,

Nature ha*, however, recompensed the inhabitants with delicious apples^
" The lower part of this basin, sheltered by multiplied hills, offers
an infinity of excellent productions. White-wine at Poilly and
Charite" sur-Loire ; red at Blois, and the fruits of Tours and Angers,
are abundant and of exquisite flavour.

f FromNevers to Nantes, in following the Loire, the hills are beheld
covered with rich vineyards; almost all the stone of this lower basin
is calcarious.*

basin of the Garonne. — " The plain of Bourdeaux, composed of
an alluvion formed of sand admixed with the mud of the sea. When
there is not a clayey base to this rich mould, the wine is delicious.
Such is that of Anbrion, because the water is imbibed with facility,
^nd penetrating the sand, does not produce humidity injurious to the
vines.

" Sometimes uVre are, under the sand, strata of hard feruginous
earth ; and if precaution is not taken to break them, they produce
upon the vine the same effect as argil, by forcing the water to re.-
main stagnant."

This subject could be much dilated, but it is unnecessary. Our
intention was to produce some general, but well-founded ideas upon
the culture of a vegetable, whose introduction into every country has
made a revolution in its rural economy.

The olive is of infinitely more real value than the vine, and de-
serves more attention than any vegetable, the cereal gramina and
sugar-cane excepted. This very precious tree will no doubt be-
come one of the greatest objects of the American farmer in those
parts of the United States which lie south of 35° N. lat. The sub-
ject is, however, too extensive to permit its insertion in this place.
As the olive tree can, we have every reason to believe, be intro-
duced into almost the entire range of the United States, included be-
tween the 29th and 35th of N. lat. from the Atlantic ocean to the
Chippewa n mountain?, we have considered it deserving an entire
chapter, after the reviews of the states and territories, included in
that part of the foregoing range, that lie west of Georgia. To this
^chap. iv. of this treatise,) we refer the reader, and will now proceed
with the topography of the basin of Mobile.

The valley of the Mobile and its tributary streams has much, not
to say, a remarkable resemblance to the basin of the Rhone, and
will admit of nearly the same course of production. Though in the
same parallel of latitude, St. Stephens on the Tombigbee enjoy*
H temperature considerably warmer than Natchez. The winters are
less severe at the former than at the latter place. The valley of the
Alabama, from the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa, to the mouth

" There is but little in common with the climate and position of this basin
and any part ot the United States east of the Mississippi. The concluding ob-
servations upon the culture of the vine, deserves particular notice, however,
;is they appear to be in unison with all the information on the subject contained
IB the work from which they are extracted ; and farther, as they tend to show,
that whatever other differences climate or soil may make upon the growth of
the vine, a sandy ia? e is every where necessary for the production of good
win?.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 31

of Toinbigbee, exhibits nearly the same variations of seasons as are
experienced at St. Stephens.

The ridge of hills that divide the waters of the Mobile, though not
very elevated, yet afford a considerable shelter to the country along
the gulf of Mexico. The vine may no doubt be brought to great per-
fection on land that is now unjustly condemned to irremediable ste-
rility. The dry pine hills, with a southern exposure, will, no doubt,
prove by far most advantageous for the cultuie of the vine, and will
yield grapes of far superior quality to those produced on the rich
and moist bottoms of the large rivers.

A glance at the various openings to the winds of the north, or the
elevations that obstruct their approach, or reduce their violence, that
extend themselves from the Atlantic ocean to the Rio Grande del
Norte, in tracing the 33° N. lat. will enable the geographer to draw
correct conclusions respecting the varieties in the climate of this ex-
tensive region.

Calculating from analogy, the air ought to be more temperature,
and the seasons more uniform on the borders of the Atlantic ocean,
than upon the gulf of Mexico, on the same line of latitude. From
recent, though not very decisive data, the facts are consonant to the
theory. If sugar-cane is cultivated successfully in the state of Geor-
gia, the induction is well founded, that there is less frost on the
shores of the Atlantic ocean than on those of the gulf of Mexico, on
the same parallel of latitude. The southeastern part of Georgia is
sheltered from the north by the high granitic ridges of the Aleghany,
which are covered with an enormous forest of evergreen trees : the
south part of Georgia is sheltered by the same mountains, and both
places are tempered by their oroximity to expanded bodies of
water.

In advancing westward from the Atlantic ocean, along the 33° N.
lat. Carteret's bank, in South Carolina, will first be passed ; the city
of Charleston will be left to the south, and the level country watered
by Cooper, Edisto, and Camchte rivers, will be passed before en-
countering the Savannah river. This distance, of upwards of 16S
miles, is over a level, and by no means a productive country. West
of Savannah, the country is mere broken than to the east of that
river, but it continues generally a sterile, sandy soil, in which the
pine tree most abounds. In rea.ity, from the Oconee to Red river,
except upon and very near the streams, the parallel of 33° N. runs
through a barren pine forest.

The 33° N. lat. is, in North America, what the parallel of 45° is
in Europe, a line of demarkation between different vegetables. These
two parallels are in the respective quarters distinguished by the
same productions, and exhibit very nearly the same temperature.
The reason why the western part of Europe enjoys in 45° a tempe-
rature found in America in lat. 33° has never yet been satisfactorily-
explained ; nor is a philosophical solution of it of much consequence ;
but it is of the utmost utility*to the American emigrant to understand
correctly the varieties m the soil and climate of those parts of Eu-
rope from whence new plants or new branches of husbandry »re in
be imported into his own country-

£2 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

The Mobile is the Rhone of North America. The valley of this
river is sheltered on all sides by considerable elevations, and by thick
forests, except towards the south, where it is open to the warm
winds from the tropics A ridire of hills, leaves the northwestern
parts of Georgia, and following a course nearly similar to that of
Tennessee river, divides the waters that flow into that stream from
(hose that flow into the confluent waters of the Mobile. This ridge,
though not very high, is clothed with a thick forest, and forms a
line of demarkation between two climates, as well as a dividing line
separating different rivers. _ _

Nearly upon the line between Georgia and Alabama, tnis ridge
divides itself; one branch, as has been remarked, winding parallel
to the Tennessee river, crosses the Ohio a short distance below the
former river. The second branch takes a direction a little south of
southwest, and terminates near the junction oi Coosa and Tallapoosa.
The fall in Coosa, above Fort Jackson, is, perhaps, a continuation of
this last ridge ; if so, it is merely broken through by the Coosa, and
continues nearly the mouth of that river, and gradually sinks into the
low lands near Mobile bay.

Leaving the northwest angle of South Carolina, and intersecting
Georgia in nearly a southwest direction, a branch of the Aleghany
mountains directs its course between the Chatahooche and Mobile
rivers, and gradually lowering, as it advances to the southwest,
finally terminates in the bluffs of the Mobile bay, near the town of

Blakeiy. ,...,,.

Near the northeast angle of tie state of Mississippi, a ridge di-
verges from the one already described, as dividing the waters of Ten-
nessee and Mobile rivers. This diverging ridge pursues nearly a
south course, crosses two degrees of latitude, dividing the waters of
the Tombigbee from those of Yazoo an«l Big-black ; then turns a
little east, separates the streams that flow into the Pascagoula river,
and is terminated by the high banks upon- which Mobile town is built.

There is, in the basin of the Mobile, still another distinctive ridge,
lying between the waters of the Cahaba and those of the Black-
w irrior rivers, and which, below the respective mouths of these latter
streams, descends to the southwjrd, and forms the apex of the Pe-
ninsula between the Tombigbee and Alabama rivers, and is imper-
ceptibly merged into the low lands near their junction.

Almost on the 33° N. lat. anq near the sources of the Big-black,
Pearl and Pascagoula rivers, the chain of hills, west of the Tom-
bigbee, sends out two embranchments ; one winds southwardly, di-
vides the waters of the Pearl and Pascagoula, slowly depresses as it
approaches the se3-coast, and ends in high banks near the bay of St.
Louis. The second pursues a southeast course, separates the waters
that flow into the Mississippi river from those that flow into lakes
Maurpas, Pontchartrain, and Borgne, and terminates abruptly io
hi"h hills, called Loftus' heights, on the east bank of the Mississippi
about eighteen miles above the mouth of Red river.

There are hills of more or less elevation between all the minor wa-
ter courses in the Mobile basin, bnt the foregoing are the most im-
portant, an,d the only claims that have a sensible influence over tire

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 33

climate. It will be seen that the valley or basin of the Mobile is in
form of a triangle; the base of which lies parallel to the Tennessee
river. The surface of this valley is about 40,000 square miles —
25,600,000 American statute acres.

The soil is extremely varied. The far greatest part of the surface
is barren, having pine as* its principal growth. The productive soil
is again subdivided into two portions ; the first and most valuable is
the alluvion upon the rivers ; the second is composed of the slopes of
hills, and usually in the country called hammock land ; the soil of
this latter is generally mixed sand and clay, — timber, pine, oak, hick-
ory, sweet gum, and dog wood.

If ever extensive vineyards are established in the United States, it
will be upon those dry sandy slopes. The position, exposure, and de-
scription of soil, corresponds almost exactly with the places where,
according to the French authors, the finest vineyards of Europe are
situated.

There are many places, also, where small grain can be cultivated,
and where good mills can be erected. This outline will, no doubt,
prevail towards the sources of the streams to where the transportation
flour would be difficult and extensive.

It will, however, in the first instance, and for a considerable time to
come, be upon the rich alluvion that the settlements will be made. It
is here that new farms, towns and villages will rise with rapidity. Cot-
ton, maize, potatoes, and other staples and necessaries of human life,
will precede the vine. Men will, in the first instance, cultivate that
product that with certainty will yield speedy emolument.

The whole country included in the basin of the Mobile apparently
rests upon secondary limestone. This fossil, in many places, forms
precipices along the banks of the rivers, and as far as correct informa-
tion has been received, is the rock over which the various waters are
precipitated in the falls of rivers.

There are many parts, particularly the banks of the Alabama, Coha-
ba, Coosa, and Tallapoosa, where the olive will find a congenial soil
and situation.

The following is a list of the most common timber trees found in
the basin of the Mobile, and indeed on all the waters from the Atlantic
ocean to the Mississippi, in the same parallel of latitude.

Pinus rigida, Pitch pine,*

Pinus taeda, Loblolly , or water pine,|

Quercus tinctoria, Black oak,

Quercus rubra, Red oak,

Quercus virens, Live oak ; only near the segj

Quercus ferruginea, Black jack,

Quercus alba, White oak,

* This tree forms far above one half of the entire mass of the forests. It occu-
pies exclusively immense tracts^nd mingles with other trees in every part of
the country. It is only wanjing in the very richest alluvial soil, or in the lowest
swamps.

t This tree is less frequent than pitch pine, even in low grounds, where tHe
two trees are found growing together.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Quercus falcafa,
Juglans squamosa,
Juglans laciniosa,
Juglans nigra,
Acer rubrum,
Acer nigrum,
Acer negundo,
Cupressus disticha,
Carpinus ostrya,
Carpinus Americana,
Castanea pumira,
Cerasus virginiana,
Cornus florida,
Diospiros virginiana,
Fagus sylvestris,
Fraxinus tomentosa,
Gleditsia triacanlhos,
Juniperus virginiana,
Laurus sassafras,
Liquid amber styracislua,
Liriodendron tulipifera,
Magnolia grandiflora,
Nyssa Sylvatica,
Nyssa aquatica,
Platanus occidentals,
Tilia pubescens,
Ulmus rubra,
Ulmus Americana,
Uimus aquatica,

Spanish oak,
Shell-bark hickory,
Black hickory.
Black walnut, scarce,
Red maple,

Black sugar maple, rare,
Box elder, on the streams-
Cypress,
Iron wood,
Horn beam,
Chineapin,
Wild cherry,*

Dogwood, extremely abundant.
Persiraon,
Beach,
Common ash,
Honey locust, rare.
Red cedar,
Sassafras,
Sweet gum,
Poplar,!
Large laurel,
Black gum,
Tupeloo,
Sycamore,
Linden, or lime tree,
Red elm,
Blucilaginous elm,
Water elm.

There are many trees not enumerated in this list, that may be
found in the forests of Mobile, but these are the most prevalent, and
in their uses the most important.

Cupressus disticha (cypress) is every where, in the southern and
southwestern parts of the United Sl?tes, selected for buildings, fences,
and for every use to which its wood can be applied. Its timber is
easily wrought. It is also one of those kinds of trees whose wood
does not harden by being seasoned ; it is extremely durable, and
shrinks or swells by change of weather less than the wood of any
other known tree.

* The wild cherry has received, in our books of natural history, the absurd
name of cerasus virginiana, in place of the prunus Americana, which latter
on. bt to have prevailed. There are but a few species of trees in the United
States fuutid covering a more extended surface than the wild cherry ; its timber
is very inferior to mahogany in beauty and durability. It abounds along the
bl i f. east of the Mississippi ; it is found in at! second rate lands, on all the wa-
teis (hat flow into the gulf of Mexico, Lut appears to havs displayed the full
deve! >pement 0f its size only iu Opel<nisas *nd the adjacent country. The texf
ture ol the wood of the wild cherry gains in colour and solidity in advancing to
the soi ihvvard but the fruit rather deteriorates.

t Tins elegant and majestic tree does not abound in the basin of Mobile, but is
extimels plentiful, ; nd grov 3 to an immense size upon the hills near Mississip-
pi, and upon some of the waters of West Floi* J~ -*ni Opelousas.

borne, and Alabama.

MOBILE stands upon the west side of the bay of that name, in
30° 40' N lat. This town, though amongst the fir^t established in
Louisiana by the French, is yet of but little consequence. It is built
upon a high bank of the bay ; the site is dry and commanding, but
the approach of the harbour, for vessels drawing more than eight feet
water, is difficult and circuitous. The annexed plan of the bay will
exhibit its position more clearly than could Oe done by any verbal
description. Vessels can be brought very near the shore, and the har-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Quercus falcata,
Juglans squamosa,
Juglans laciniosa,
Juglans nigra,
Acer rubrum,
Acer nigrum,
Acer negundo,
Cupressus disticha,
Carpinus ostrya,
Carpinus Americana,
Castanea pumiha,
Cerasus virginiana,
Cornus florida,
Diospiros virginiana,
Fagus sylvestris,
Fraxinus tomentosa,
Gleditsia triacanthos,
Juniperus virginiana,
Laurus sassafras,
Liquid amber styracislua,
Liriodendron tulipifera,
Magnolia grandiflora,
Nyssa Sylvatica,
Nyssa aquatica,
Ptatanus occidentalis,
Tilia pubescens,
Ulmus rubra,
Ulmus Americana,
Uimus aquatica,

Spanish oak,

Shell-bark hickory,

Black hickory.

Black walnut, scarce,

Red maple,

Black sugar maple, rare,

Box elder, on the streams.

Cypress,

Iron wood,

Horn beam,

Chineapin,

Wild cherry,*

Dogwood, extremely abundant.

Persimon,

Beach,

Common ash,

Honey locust, rare.

Red cedar,

Sassafras,

Sweet gum,

Poplar,!

Large laurel,

Black gum,

Tupeloo*

Sycamore,

Linden, or lime tree,

Red elm,

Mucilaginous elm,

Water elm.

There are many trees not enumerated in this list, that may be
found in the forests of Mobile, but these are the most prevalent, and
in their uses the most important.

Cupressus dislicha (cypress) is every where, in the southern and
southwestern parts of the United Slftes, selected for buildings, fences,
and for every use to which its wood can be applied. Its timber is
easily wrought. It is also one of those kinds of trees whose wood
does not harden by being seasoned ; it is extremely durable, and
shrinks or swells by change of weather less than the wood of any
other known tree.

* The wild cherry has received, in our books of natural history, the absurd
narae of cerasus virginiana, in place of the prunus Americana, which latter
ought to have prevailed. There are but a few species of trees in the United
States found covering a more extended surface than the wild cherry ; its timber
is very inferior to mahogany in beauty and durability. It abounds along the
bluffs east ol the Mississippi ; it is found in al! second rate lands, on all the wa-
tcis that flow into the gulf of Mexiro, lut appears to bavs displayed the full
devf! ipement of its size only in Opelousas *nd the adjacent country. The texr
ture ol the wqod of the wild cherry gains in colour and solidity in advancing to
the southward but the fruit rather deteriorates.

t Tins elegant and majestic tree does not abound in the basin of Mobile, but is
extreipeK plentiful, ; iid grov 5 to an immense size tuion the hills near Mississip-
pi, and upon some of the waters of West Flor* J~ "^d Opelousas.

Lengitudfi Wat <</' Greenwich

rublisked.Lvtt.rkl' Ottceia NY

ought to have prevailed. There are but a few species of trees in the United
States found covering a more extended surface than the wild cherry ; its timber
is very inferior to mahogany in beauty and durability. It abounds along the
l/li,n» east ol the Mississippi ; it is found in all second rate lands, on all the wa-
teis (hat flow into the gulf of Mexico, but appears to have displayed the full
devet .pement 0f j(s size on|v iu Opelousas *nd the adjacent country. The tex-
ture ot the wood of the wild cherry gains iu colour and solidity in advancing to
Ihp soi th ward but the fruit rather deteriorates.

t Tins elegant and majestic tree does not abound in the basin of Mobile, but is
extreme!) plentiful, and grov lo an immense size upon the hills near Mississip-
pi, and upon some of the waters of West Flor* J- -*»d Opelousas.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 35

The cypress is used for ship-building, and it has been said that, ex-
cept nail?, cables and anchors, a whole ship of any size could be form-
ed from Ibe cypress timber. If it is not the largest tree in girth, it is
certainly the most elevated in North America. 1 have myself seen
cypress trees more than a foot in diameter, upwards of 100 feet above
the ground.

The live oak -does not abound in any place, but is totally unknown
in the basin of the Mobile above 31° N. lat. The existence of this
tree as high as 30° 50' N. lat. on Mobile bay, is a proof of the great-
er temperature of this region, than that near or west of the Mississip-
pi. It will be seen, in the sequel of this work, that 30° 20' is about
the northern limit of the live oak, in the vicinity of the delta of the
Mississippi.

The pitch pine covers more than two-thirds of the country. The
soil upon which this tree vegetates has been considered as coudemned
to irreclaimable sterility. There are many reasons to justify doubts,
of the correctness of these conclusions. In the pine forests the
earth is every where covered with succulent grass, that affords excel-
lent and abundant range for cattle. There are also found growing
spontaneously several species of the papilionaceous flowering vege-
tables.

Whilst the fertile alluvion of the navigable rivers remains unlocated,
we can hardly hope that the lands included in the pine forests will re-
ceive a fair trial of their capability of improvement ; but that this
extensive species of soil has been too hastily condemned, we have
many sound reasons to believe.

Whether an attention to the production of wine in the United States
is desirable or politic at this time, cannot be easily determined ; but
that the vine, if ever cultivated on a large scale in the United States,
must be planted upon the warm sandy slopes of pine hills, we hazard
nothing in assuming as correct. From the picture given in this trea-
tise of the wine districts of other countries, any person who had ever
seen the hills of Amite, Pearl, Poscagoula, Tombigbee and Alabama,
would at once perceive the analogy.

Those pine tracts are also the seats of pure air, pure water ao.d
health. The asperities of the soil are more than compensated by the
absence of bilious and chronic diseases. If the inhabitant earns his
bread with the sweat of his brow, he can eat and digest it with a vi-
gorous stomach.

Of the towns that have been begun in the valley of Ibe Mobile, the
most important are, Mobile, Blakely, Fort St. Stephens, Fort Clai-
borne, and Alabama.

MOBILE stands upon the west side of the bay of that name, in
30° 40' N lat. This town, though amongst the fir^t established in
Louisiana by the French, is yet of but little consequence. It is built
upon a high bank of the bay ; the site is dry and commanding, but
the approach of the harbour, for vessels drawing more than eight feet
water, is difficult and circuitous. The annexed plan of the bay will
exhibit its position more clearly than could oe done by any verbal
description. Vessels can be brought very near the shore, and the har-

36 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

bour is completely sheltered from the storms, or sudden attack oi'
an enemy by water.

The country in its rear is unsettled pine woods. There are no ex-
tensive settlements nearer than Washington or Baldwin counties, above
the 3i°N. lat.

Many very serious impediments oppose themselves to the advance
of Mobile, but the most effectual is the rise of a rival town in a more
convenient situation for commercial transactions.

BLAKELY stands upon the east side of Mobile bay, in 30° 43' N,
lat. This town has been only established a little more than a year.
It has some pre-eminent advantages over Mobile; one of which is,
that the same wind that enables a vessel to enter Mobile bay, will car-
ry her to the wharfs of Blakely, which is not the case respecting Mo-
bile ; another is, an open road to the rapidly improving country on
the Alabama river.

Blakely, it is most likely, will become the mart of Mobile river ;
there is a vigorous rivalry between the two towns at present, but the
obvious superiority of the position of Blakely will probably be de-
cisive in its favour.

FORT ST. STEPHENS is established on the west bank of Tom-
bigbee, atN. lat. 31° 33'. This town stands at the head of schooner
navigation, and is in a state of rapid improvement. The amount of
the commercial business, already done at this town, exceeds #500,000
annually. In its vicinity is the most wealthy and best populated
country on the waters of the Mobile. Baldwin, Washington, and
Clarke counties, have all received great accessions of population with-
in three years past.

Property continually rises in value, notwithstanding the intermina-
ble quantity of public land opened for settlement. The advantage of
occupying the point between boat and ship navigation confers great
importance on this place. Whatever towns may arise, either above
or below, yet this place must maintain its relative rank.

It is, by act of congress, the seat of government for Alabama ter-
ritory, until otherwise directed by the legislature thereof. It has
been found, in a great number of instances in the United States, that
nothing but commercial facility can augment, to any considerable ex-
tent, the wealth or inhabitants of towns ; and that their being selected
for the seats of legislatures, or courts of justice, gives but trivial com-
parative advantage. It is, tiierefore, of very little consequence to the
people of St. Stephens, whether or not it remains the seat of govern-
ment.

FORT CLAIBORNE, on Alabama river, occupies the same rela-
tive position on that stream, that Fort St. Stephens does on Touibig-
bee. The former town has entirely risen since the end of the last
war between the United States and Great Britain. Like all other
places in the valley of Mobile, it is in a state of prosperous advance.
The town of Fort Claiborne is also at the head of schooner navigation;
of course the chances of its permanency rest upon the same principles
of calculation which we have applied to Fort St. Stephens.

It would be difficult to state the number ©f houses or people in any

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

2Tt

of these new towns. In reality, the numbers change so rapidly, that
no estimate can remain one year correct. It would be useless to at-
tempt any precise enumeration of the component parts of a mass so
incessantly accumulating.

The country in the vicinity of the junction of the Tombigbee and
Alabama is in some respects most admirably situated to become a
pleasant and profitable residence. It will probably, at no very distant
time, be the centre of a great thoroughfare between New Orleans and
the southern states upon the Atlantic Should the vine rnd olive be
successfully cultivated, and there is but little reason to doubt a pros-
perous issue to the attempt to introduce those useful plants, then will
the valley of the Mobile become the American Italy : there will the
declining constitutions, sinking under the severity of northern winters,
find warmth, health and mental enjoyment.

The following list of roads will show the distances from St. Ste-
phens to the respective placts around that town.
No. 3.
St. Stephens to New Orleans by Madisonville.

Miles.

Fort Stoddert ........

Pascagoula river . . . .

105

Greene C. H. , . , .

125

Pearl river ........

170

C. H. parish of St. Tammany in the state of Louisiana

195

Madisonville ........

225

Fort St. John (over lake Pontchartrain)

247

New Orleans ........

252

No. 4.

St. Stephens to Natchez.

Sintabogue river ......

Eastern branch of Pascagoula , ,

Winchester . . . . . . .

Moniicello ........

105

149

Natchez .,..,..

239

No. 5.

Milledgeville in Georgia.

Fort Claiborne .....

Hurricane Spring ..,.._- -.

Fort Decatur on Tallapoosa river

■ 24

Point Comfort ........

;36

Chat.jhoochy ........

i96

Fori Lawrence .......

.41

F<>rt Hawkins ........

291

Milledgeville .......

336

Nashville in Tennessee by Huntsville.

Fort Claiborne ......

Fort J.'ckson ........

115

Huntsville ,

200

315

Tennessee line . . .,

329

Sg EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Fayetteville 12(341

Shelby ville 3!|372

Nashville 3i>|407

It will be seen, from the above relative distances, how nearly cen*
tral is the position of Fort St. Stephens, when compared with the most
remarkable places in the surrounding states.

The road from St. Stephens to New Orleans can be travelled at all
seasons of the year, and this route is only embarrassed by having lake
Pontchartrain to pass. There is no considerable difficulty, however,
in passing that lake, as packet schooners daily ply from New Orleans
to Madisonville.

In every other direction from Fort St. Stephens the roads lead over
high dry countries, and admit of being passed, without extraordinary
difficulty, at all seasons.

Persons intending to visit the valley of the Mobile, ought to depart
from their place of outset, so as to arrive in the country in November
or December. The winter is the most agreeable and safest season for
new-comers in any part of the United States south of 35° N. lat.

Persons removing into ibis country with families ought never to
neglect this precaution ; the spring is the ordinary time of arrival,
and it is in every respect the very worst part of the year that can be
chosen. The rapid change from the low temperature of a northern
to a much more southern residence, is an essay of sufficient violence
for the human constitution at any time ; but when, to this severe
change, is added that of a diurnal increase of heat, it ought not to ex-
cite surprise that so many lives sink under the trial. Mere heat, un-
less extremely violent, is not destructive to animal life. It has been
proved that the human species will enjoy perfect health when exposed
to a heat of upwards of 90° of Fahrenheit's thermometer, provided
there are no animal or vegetable substances near, liable to be decom-
posed by the action of the heat. The alluvial banks of large rivers
are no otherwise the laboratories of disease, than by means of the
abundance of decaying matter, particularly that of vegetables. Liv-
ing near swamps or low ground, in summer, exposes one to disease
in all countries, but that liability to contract sickness will be increased
extremely when a healthy person, leaving a cool and pure atmosphere,
is at once transported into a warm climate and near large bodies of
fresh wateN

There are many parts of the valley of the Mobile, where little
danger from stagnation need be apprehended; but those healthy parts
will be the last settled. The first establishments will always be made
upon the rich margins of the streams, which are the most fertile,
though least healthy parts of the country.

There is another and very serious inconvenience attending an en-
trance into any new settlements in spring, and that is the price of
provision. Autumn is the season of cheapness and plenty.

So much, however, depends upon the private arrangements of al-
most all men, that they are seldom sufficiently masters of their own

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

movements to determine, according to their wishes, their arrival in
any given place at any particular season.

No. 7.
Route from New Orleans to Natchez, and post of Arkansaw by the
Mississippi and Arkansaw rivers.

Miles .
M. Carry's .....

Sauv£'s ......

Kenner's .....

Detrehans . . . . .

Red church, German coast

Bonnet Quare" point

Bonnet Quare' church, parish of St. Charles

Fortin's ......

Cantrel's two churches, parish of St. John Baptiste

Bringier's Acadian coast, parish of St. James

General Hampton's, Old Houmas

Donnaldsonville, efflux of Lafourche, parish of Ascension

Church of St. Gabriel, (Manchac)

Efflux of Plaquemine

Efflux of Iberville or Bayou Manchac .

Baton Rouge .....

General Wikoff's ....

Patons, Lily Islands

Mouth of Thomson's creek

Mouth of Bayou Sarah, St. Francisville

Point Coupe'e church

Mouth sf Bayou Tunica, Raccourci bend

Island's Three Sisters

Efflux of Atchafalaya

Mouth of Red river

Fort Adams, Loftus' heights

Mouth of Buffalo ....

Mouth of Homschitto

White cliffs, mouth of St. Catherine creek

NATCHEZ

Mouth of Shilling's Bayou .

Mouth of Fairchild's creek, lower end of Fairchild's islands

Efflux of Bayou L' Argent .

Upper end of Fairchild's islands

Mouth of Cole's creek

Petite gulf -....'

Evan's, mouth of Bayou Pierre .

Grand gulf .

Mouth of Big-black river

Lower extremity of Balmyra bend

Upper ditto ditto

W„iren, in Warren county

Wbiiiul hills .....

Yazoo, mouth

6
11
14
19

20
34

i07

117

125

138

146

156

170

171

202

230

I 239

242

260

262

271

311

322

327

336

338

341

348

361

370

d81

.-532

405

4'J5

!33

449

463

504

541

343

548

10.

j60

714

-4© EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Entrance into lake Providence, and to lower trace from the

settlements on Ouachitta ....

Upper trace from Ouachitta ....

Stack island

To the 33° N. lat. north line of the state of Louisiana
Mouth of Arkansaw ......

Post of Arkansaw

At this time two or three steam boats, and a great number of barges,
are in active operation between Natchez and New Orleans. The
distance is commonly estimated, in round numbers, at three hundred
miles, but exceeds that distance twenty-two miles, as found by
actual measurement. The following tvili exhibit the great difference in
distance between New Orleans and Natche-z, by the respective land
or river routes :

No. 8.

From New Orleans to Natchez, by lake Pontchartrain, Madison-
ville, and thence by land : —

Miles.
St. John's suburb, (Fauburg)

Fort St. John's, mouth of Bayou St. John . . .
Mouth of Chifuncte" . . . .

Madisonville

Cros^ Tangipao ......

ditto Pontchatoola creek

Spri&gfield, on Notalbany creek ....

Court house, St. Helena, bridge ovet the Tickfoha river

Spiiler's •

Cross Amite river

The 31° N. lat

Homochitto river .....-•

Second creek

St. Catherine creek ......

Natchez

From twelve to sixteen days are usually consumed in ascending
from New Orleans to Natchez, and about twenty days from Natchez
to the post of Arkansaw. Steam-boats, by stemming the current at
the rate of four miles an hour, and going in motion twelve hours per
day, will perform the same voyage in much less than half the time.
In countries where wood abound?, such as the banks of the Missis-
sippi, and where the streams are rapid, steam boats are an invalua-
ble acquisition to the inhabitants. It is only to those who have had
practical experience, that the painful, laborious, and tedious opera-
tion of ascending the Mississippi with barges need be depicted.
It is a matter of great surprise, however, to behold the boatmen em-
ployed in this severe labour silting on their benches, exposed to the
most scorching sun, often naked from the waist up ; and being thus
exposed for weeks together, without any serious injury to their health.
The sickness so prevalent amongst American boatmen, has been
mostly ascribed to intemperance ; that circumstance does, no doubt,
superinduce disease but more destructive, and to which the Ameri-
can traders, boatmen, and often families, are too frequently exposed,

101

i36

142

152

156

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 41

when upon the Mississippi, and adjacent streams, in spring and sum-
mer, is the Joss of rest from the sting of the musqueto.

This is an evil easily remedied, and to which those persons who
have !>een long enough in the country to adopt the prudent precau-
tions of the inhabitants, are relieved. A musqueto curtain, made
from the cheapest materials, is part of the equipage of every one
who travels either by land or water, in any part of the Mississippi
or Mobile country, from April to November.

It has been thought but very erroneously, that the high pine tracts
were exempt from the musqueto in summer. The writer can aver,
that from the highest hills of the Tombigbee, to those on the Sabine
river, in all parts below 33° N. lat. in ten summers to which be was
exposed, there was not one season that the musquetoes were not suf-
ficiently abundant to prevent the possibility of comfortable sleep,
during the months of May, June, Ju'y, August, and September.
In the month of July, 1812, the author travelled from Fort Stoddert
to New Oneans by land, to the month of Pascagoula, and found the
musqueto in excessive abundance, upon the dry sandy hills of Dog
river.

The inhabitants observed, that the circumstance was extraordinary,
and their information may have been correct, but every penon who
visits the country in summer, would do well to provide against such
a contingence. As to families, the provision of musqueto curtains is
absolutely indispensable.

The general mode of making these curtains for beds, is in this
manner. A tester is generally made of thick muslin, the length and
breadth of the bed, to which is attached a curtain, about four or five
feet high, without openings at the sides. This curtain, thus made,
and suspended so as to admit its being folded beneath the bed
clothes, effectually excludes these very troublesome insects.

This species of curtain is universal in the houses of the inhabi-
tants of the states of Mississippi, Louisiana, and Alabama, territory.
They are made from the coarsest to the finest materials, and are, in
houses of the higher classes, often elegant.

The boatmen generally have small mattresses, only wide enough to
admit one person: the curtain is formed of the length and width of
the mattress. When intending to provide for his lodging, the boat-
man attaches his curtain to little posts put into the ground, to branches
of trees, bu>hes, or, indeed, whatever else may be found to suit his
mattress, is stretched beneath, and in this retreat, he reposes safe
from the musqueto, and sheltered from the night dews.

The author was one who learned, from dear bought experience,
this useful addition to his travelling equipments. During a residence
of nearly sixteen years, in the region near and in the delta of the
Mississippi, the only indisposition of any great consequence he ever
experienced, was in first descending the Mississippi to Natchez ; and
his sickness was then occasioned by the pain and venom of the sting
of the musqueto.

When performing the surveys for his map of Louisiana, he was ex*
posed to ^very vicissitude of season, and to every change of place,

42 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

that the country could present, and without observing any stated re-
gimen, he enjoyed almost uninterrupted health.

This subject has been mentioned in detail, from the certainty of
its importance, and from a conviction, that those who will most need
the precaution, are those to whom the necessity of using it is unknown.
Men from the northern, and many parts of the middle states, and,
indeed, from some of the hilly and mountainous parts of the states
of Virginia, the two Carolinas, and Georgia, cannot be made to dread
an enemy whose attacks they never felt. The robust, healthy, full
habits, of most of the young men of all those places, are precisely
the food upon which the bilious fevers of the south are supported.
And of all the various causes that sap and destroy the human frame,
want of rest, and exposure to night dews, are the most dangerous
and destructive.

The rude mattress and check curtain, with thick Russia sheeting
testers, used by the Louisiana boatmen, would save thousands of
lives. The whole materials of a bed, constructed in this manner,
would not exceed, and possibly not amount to twenty dollars.
They are made of all sizes, and of all kinds of materials, from the
coarsest to the finest ; are of every kind of workmanship, from the
rudest to the most elegant, and are exposed for sale in the shops of
New Orleans, and every other town, in the places where they are
needed.

Any person from the northern states, intending to remove to, or
visit any part of Louisiana, Mississippi, or Texas, below 33° N lat.
would find it for his benefit to go to New Orleans, or Mobile by
sea, and to arrive in those cities as late as November. There is no
impediment, arising from winter, in visiting any part of the country.
Heavy rains seldom fall before January, and often not so early in
the season. The whole country can be examined with safety and
comfort, during November, December, January, February, and
March. The sickly season does not commence before August ; June
js the most healthy, and September the most sickly month.

There is, indeed, no season known above 40 N. lat. answering to
the winter of Louisiana, nor is there any so pleasant. It is,
however, the season in which fewest persons visit the country. The
far greatest number descend the Mississippi in spring, and return in
summer, in order to escape the dangers of autumn.

Traders, merchants, boatmen, and sailors, may, from the nature of
their respective employments, be in a great degree forced to pursue
this routine ; but persons intending to settle, can be seldom under
such necessity, and are less excusable in exposing themselves and
families to useless risk.

The ordinary expenses of travelling do not greatly vary, in dif-
ferent parts of the United States, in a given distance ; but there is a
great and essential difference in time. Where steam-boats, good and
convenient ferries, and stages, are established, the rate at which a
traveller can advance is much accelerated, but his expenses are in
proportion to the conveniences with which he is provided ; and
though he can proceed on his way with more celerity, he cannot pass

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 43

from place to place, with much, if any less money, than by the old
fashion, of riding a good horse.

Except by water, there are no public conveniences yet establish-
ed in the Mississippi or Mobile countries, for the convenience of tra-
vellers ; they are obliged to provide themselves the means of trans-
portation. Horses, of all prices, are constantly to be procured in New
Orleans and Natchez. A medium price may be about eighty
dollars.

A stage was some years past established from New Orleans to
Baton Rouge, but discontinued, from want of sufficient encourage-
ment. Most persons returning from New Orleans to the western and
northern states, cross lake Pontchartrain to Madisonville, and thence
by Natchez. A new road is now opening from Nashville to Madi-
sonville, which will obviate the necessity of passing by Natchez,
and also save eighty or an hundred miles travelling. Nearly the
whole of this road will be over high, dry land. The distance upon
this new route, from New Orleans to Nashville, will be about 480;
by Natchez, it is nearly COO miles.

(44)

GHAPTER II.

The means and necessary routes to reach any parfof Louisiana;
West of the Mississippi river, or of the province cf Texas, Provincias,
Internas, (Internal Provinces,) or the viceroyalty of Mexico, are but
very imperfectly known in the United States. We will give, in de-
tail, the various routes, by land and water, from New Orleans to the
respective places west of the Mississippi river, before entering upon
the various other topics respecting the countries, or their produc-
tions.

No. 9.
Road from New Orleans to Mexico, by land.

Miles.

To Donnaldville efflux of Lafourche. (See No. 7.)

Canal to lake Verret

101

Lake Verret ....

188

Over lake Verret

108

Late Palourde ....

122

West end of lake Palourde . . .

133

Grassy lake ....

136

Atchafalaya river

140

Mouth of Teche river

142

Renthrop's ferry ....

143

Court-house, parish of St. Mary's

164

Sorrel's

181

New Iberia ,

200

St. Martiasville, parish of St. Martin

209

Bridge over Bayou Fusilier

229

OPELOTJSAS' church, parish of St. Landre'

242

Fontenot's

254

Hanchet's ....

261

M' Daniel's

264

Pine Prairie ....

272

Bayou Crocodile

281

Bayou Cypriere Mort

313

Terre Blanche

325

Bayou Conchatta

340

NATCHITOCHES .

lfi

356

Arroyo Hondo ....

361

Adayes ....

364

Bayou Piedra ....

374

Head ot Bayou le Nan

380

Sabine river

401

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Bayou Patron

408

Chichi's on Bayou Baregas

412

Head of the Ayeish river

417

Atoyaque river

421

Attascocito river

426

Bayou del Cariso

432

NACOGDOCHES

437

Angeline river

439

Trinity river

472

Brasos a Dios river

522

Colotado (of the) gulf of Mexico

592

St. Mark's river

662

Rio Guadeloupe

694

ST. ANTONIO DE BEHAR

744

Rio Nueces

834

Rio Grande del Norte

100

934

Monterey in New Leon

120

1054

Mine of Catorce

160

1214

Sta. Maria de Charcas

1279

San Louis Potosi

1349

Fietaro

100

1449

Tula, enter the valley of Tenochtitlan

• 509

Huehuetoca, head of Tainpico river

1529

MEXICO

1549

No. 10.
Road from New Orleans to Hoisprings onOuachitta, by Opelousas
and Natchitoches.

Natchitoches. (See No. 9.)

Grand Ecor

Campfe" ....

T»] ins Vaucherie

White-oak creek, Bayou Chene Blanch

Little Missouri, Prairie D'Han

Tetre Noir creek

Fourche au Cado

Ouachitta river

Hot springs

No. 11.
From New Orleans to Hot springs on Ouachitta, by Natchezvand
Fort Miro.

Natchez. (See No. 8.)
Concordia, west bank of Mississippi
Bayou Crocodile - -

Black river »

Bu*bly creek
Bayou Calumet
Prairie de Cete

Miles.

356

360

367

393

132

525

537

553

573

597

606

Miles.

156

]

157

172

194

206

22fi

23*

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Ouachitta river
Prairie du Lait
Fort Miro -
Bayou Derbane
Little Missouri
Bayou Terre Noir
Fourche au Cado
Ouachitta river
Hot springs

No. 12.

New Orleans to the Hot springs by water.

Mouth of Red river. (See No. 7.)

Mouth of lake Long -

Cut off from Mississippi ....

Mouth of Bayou Crocodile -

Mouth of Black river ....

Mouth of Ocataboola ....

Junction of Ouachitta and Tensaw rivers, head of Black river

Prairie de Villemont -

Efflux of Bayou Bushly

Court-house, parish of Ocatahoola, first pine hills, west bank

of Ouachitta river -

Mouth of Bayou Louis- ....

West extremity of Sicily island, first pine, hill, east bank
First rapid in Ouachitta . . - -

Mouth of the Boeuf river from the east
Bayou Calumet ...

Prairie du Lait -

Prairie du Mane - -

Eeor a Matelot -

Prairie de Chicot -----
Bayou de la Belle Cheniere -

Prairie de Bois -

Bayou de la Machoire a Tore ".'"""

Bayou Cheniere a Tondre - -

FORT MIRO 32° 32' N. lat.
Mouth of Bayou Siard - -

Mouth of Bayou Derbane
Mouth ef Bayou Loutre
Mouth of the Bartholemy river
Upper extremity of Bastrop's grant
Trois Batures (three sand bars,) 33° N. lat. northern lin

the state of Louisiana
Mouth of the Saline river
Beginning of overflowen banks
Upper part of inundated country

Little Missouri river . - - -

Fourche au Cado -

237

240

276

1 4

290

120

410

419

429

449

458

Miles

242

253

265

271

320

it ]

321

330

•tir

335

336

338

343

344

366

381

387

390

392

398

408

411

416

424

427

430

442

445

28
«-»f

473

474

486

496

566

571

"(>

601

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 47

Mouth of Hot spring creek
Hot springs -

No. 13.
From New Orleans to Natchitoches by water.

Mouth of Black river. (See No. 7.)

Entrance of Bayou Long ....

Bayou Saline -

Avoyelles landing

Ecor a Chene .....

Outlet to Bayou le Mourir

ALEXANDRIA, parish of Rapides

Rap'ds of Red river -

Hietan Bayou ""'."' "

Bayou Rapide .....

Gilliarus -

Mouth of Rigolet de Bon Dieu

Narcissus Prudhommes "."".."

Monets ------

Mouth of Bayou Pierre -

Metoye .._..-

Louis Derbane, mouth of Bayou Cochatta

Mouth of Riviere aux Cannes

Prudbommes .....

Paillets .-.-..

Natchitoches .....

No. 14.
New Orleans to Opelousas, by water.

Efflux of Bayou Plaquemine. (See No. 7.)

Blakes ......

Mouth of Plaquemine into Atchafalaya

Outlet into lake Chetimaches

Outlet of lower Tensaw ....

Cow- Island lake -

Lower extremity of Cow-Island ...

Upper end of Cow-Island ....

Lower raft .....

Mouth of Courtableau river ...

Mouth of Bayou Bigras ....

Efflux of Bayou Ferdoche ...

Efflux of Bayou Fusilier ....

Bayou Derbane -

Bane's first Prairie and settlement

WickofT's Prairie north, and Alabama Prairie south

Mouth of Bayou Wauksha ...

Bayou Carron -

Opelousas landing ....

Opelousas town .....

Miles.

35J336

9J645

Miles.

271

285

iOO

J06

322

329

344

3441;

347

363

3(i6

370

375

383

387

389

393

397

103

407£

Miles.

117

123

132

143

146

149

151

156

181

]

182

187

188

195

196

205

208

211

213

315

220

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

No. 15.
From New Orleans to New Iberia and St. Martinsville by water.

Mi les
Entrance of Plaquemine into the Atchafalayaquemine river.

(See No. 14.) -----
Outlet into lake Chetimaches
Lake Cbef.imaches -

Fausse Point landing
Neville de Clouet's
St. Martinsville
New Iberia

1.32
143
148
.64
166
176
185

No. 16.

New Orleans to New Iberia and S* Martinsville, by the Atchafa-
laya and Teche rivers.

Miles.
Mouth of Plaquemine. (See No. 7 & 14.) - - I 1 82

Bayou into lake Natchez - - - - lcj 142

Lake Natchez - - - - - 2j 144

Re-enter Atchafalaya - - - - 10 154

Lake Chetimaches - - - - 21 175

Mouth of Teche - - - - - 5 180

Renthrop's - - - - - 1 181

Outlet to lake Chetimaches - - - 10 1 91

Court-house of parish of St. Mary's - - 15 206

Smith's IS .19

Hardin's - - - - - 10 229

Sorrel's - - - - - - 14 243

Olivier's - - - - - -11) 266

New Iberia - - - - - 6 182

Madame St. Maur's - , - - - 26 308

St. Martinsville - - - - - b 314

No. 17.
From New Orleans to Fort Miro, by Natchez and lake Providence.

Miles.
Natchez. (See No. 8.) -

Fairchild's creek ----- 1

Villa Gayosa -

Huntston ------

Grindstone ford - - - - - / 1

Gibson's port -

Big black river -

Warren -

Walnut hills - ...

Yazoo river - - - -

Providence lake, west side of Mississippi

Efflux of Tensaw river from Providence lake

Macon river -

Boeuf river -

Bayou Bon Idee - - -

Prairie Jefferson -

Bayou Boeuf -

Fort Miro -

156
171
176
186
198
107
117
129
143
150
181
190
202
222
236
228
235
157

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 49

No. 18.
From New Orleans to Fort Miro by Opelousas, Alexandria, and
Ocatahoola.

Pine Prairie in Opeleusas. (See No. 9.)

Bayou Crocodile -----

Mulhollan's -

Ferry over Bayou Boeuf - -

Alexandria -

Bayou Flaggon .....

Big creek ------

Ocatahoola, or Little river ...

Bushly creek - - -

Bayou Calumet -

Prairie du Cote -

Ouachitta river -

Prairie du Lait -

Fort Miro

No. 19.
From Natchez to Natchitoches, by Alexandria.

Bushly. (See No. 11.) -

Ocatahoola prairie ....

Hemphill's creek ....

Little, or Ocatahoola river ...

ALEXANDRIA

Welsh's saw mill -

Gilliard's -

Narcissus Prudhommes -

Madame Monet's ....

Bayou Pierre -

Bayou Derbane .....

Old Red river .....

Natchitoches .....

The list of reads given in this treatise, embraces many routes that
have never before been published ; and as new stations are daily form-
ing, some important places are no doubt omitted ; but the general
distance will in most instances be found correct. The nature of the
soil over which these various roads traverse, will be noticed in the
sequel.

The country west of the delta of the Mississippi, offers an infinity
of very interesting views to the traveller and emigrant. Only a few
years have elapsed since this region was opened to the inspection of
civilized man.

The immense length of Red and Arkansaw rivers, the fertility and
variety of the lands from which their streams are derived, the extra-
ordinary features and productions of the great natural meadows of
Louisiana and Texas, have at length arrested the attention of man-
kind ; and will, no doubt, in a few revolving years, exhibit, on an
7

Miles.

272

283

294

296

311

322

328

331

359

374

377

384

386

422

Miles.

104

115

129

137

142

145

153

158

170

&d EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

immense surface, cultivated society, where, from countless ages, the
wild beasts of the plain and forest were pursued by the prowling sav-
age

Before entering upon the settlements, or artificial productions of

this immense region, it will be necessary to give an outline ot its
geography.

Louisiana, as ceded to the Unitpd States, included all that part of
North America, comprised in the western slope of the Mississippi val-
Jey and the inclined plane south of Red river, and east of the Rio
grand del Norte. When treating upon the Missouri territory, the
western slope of the Mississippi valley will be described ; the part
now under review, lies south of Arkansaw, and west of the Mississippi
river, and comprises two-thirds of the state of Louisiana, the whole
province of Texas, and upwards of 1000,000 square miles of the Mis-?
souri territory. Its outlines are extremely definite, having the gulf
of Mexico south ; the gulf of Mexico and Rio Grande del Norte on
the west ; the Arkensaw river on the north ; and the Mississippi on
the east.

Rivers — Lakes — Mountains. — The Mississippi has been noticed.
The Arkansaw rises nearly as high as the forty-second degree of
north latitude, 33° west of Washington city; pursuing a south course,
of about 200 miles, turns S E. 500 miles ; then turns nearly at ri^ht
angles, and runsN. E 160 miles; again re>umesa S.E. course, which
it pursues 1 50 miles ; then assumes an east direction, which it preserves
about 450 miles, to the place of its discharge into the Mississippi.

The river of secondary consequence in the region under review, is
Red river. This stream rises near Santa Fe, in N. lat. 37° 30' and
29° west of Washington ; runs nearly parallel to the Arkansaw, joins
the Mississippi at 31° N. lat. after a comparative course of 1100
miles

Between the Arkansaw and Red rivers, at N lat. 34° 39' and 19°
west of Washins^ton city, rises Ouachitta. The Ouachitta is formed
hy three branches, which pursuing an east course, unite about 200
miles below their sources ; form the river, which, below the junction,
turns a littie east of south ; runs in a direct line 250 miles ; joins Red
river 30 miles above the union of the latter and Mississippi.

In the interval, between the Ouachitta, Arkansaw, and Mississippi,
there exists several smaller streams, such as the Bceul, Tensaw, and
M.igon rivers, which all join and contribute to form Ouachitta.

The Atchafaljya flows from the Mississippi river, two miles below
the mouth of Red river, and may be correctly considered as the con-
tinuation of the latter.

Southwest of Red river flows, towards the gulf of Mexico, another
system of rivers, all pursuing nearly a southeast course. To this
system appertains the Teche. Mermentau, Calcassiu, Sabine, Trinity,
Bnssos a Dios, Colorado, Guadaloupe, St. Antonio, Nueces, and Rio
Grande del Norte All those streams rise in the angle between Red
river and the Chippewan mountains, and water the province of Texas
and part of the state of Louisiana.

Only two ranges of mountains are found on this tract, that of Mas-
-Serne and St. Saba. The Masserne chain is a prolongation of the

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.. 3 J

Chippewan, and rises in detached masses, between Red and Arkan-
sas rivers. This range has not been carefully examined by men of
Science ; of course its component parts are not correctly known. It is
supposed to be rich in minerals, and there are ample indications of
iron. Mr. Dunbar, of Natchez, and Dr. Hunter, visited the warm
springs on Ouachitta, which are situated on the spurs of this ridge.
According to the information given by those gentlemen, the moun-
tains are composed of secondary materials ; aluminous schist abound.
From the existence of salt (muriate of soda,) and gypsum, we would
be led to believe this region the limit between the secondary and
transition tracts. The range of salt and gypsum lies nearly north
and south : water highly impregnated with the former mineral has
been found on Sabine, Red, Ouachitta, and Arkansaw, in great
quantity ; the gypsum has only been met with on Ouachitta, but there
is much reason to believe its existence is extensive in this region.

Limestone, marble, and supertine abound ; but no unequivocal tes-
timony has yet been adduced of any primitive mass rising above the
earth in this country.

From the scanty number of facts we have been able to collect on
the geology of the interior of Louisiana and Texas, we are not
able, at present, to decide upon its minute features ; the general
outline is all that can be given.

The mountains of St. Saba appears to be a detached chain, lying
between Red river and the streams that flow into the gulf of Mexico,
This range is merely known to exist ; its component materials are ab-
solutely unknown.

The mass of native iron, now in the city of New-York, which was
a few years past sent from Louisiana, was found in the vicinity of St.
Saba, and transported to Red river by land.

The country included between th« Arkansaw river and gulf of
Mexico, is naturally divided into two distinctive portions ; the allu-
vial valleys of the Mississippi and its confluent streams ; and the
parched sandy tract partly prairie, and partly forest, to the west
and southwest of the former. The low flooded marsh, winding along
the Mexican gulf, is only the termination of both these great portions.

Amongst the extravagant exaggerations that have been made re-
specting the various features of Louisiana, none have been more in-
flated than the accomats respecting the extent of the prairies. All
the lands in the state that can be denominated prairie, even includ-
ing the swamps along the shore of the Mexican gulf, does not amount
to 10,000 square miles, or 6,400,000 acres ; they may equal about
one-fifth of the entire surface. Excepting some small detached
prairies scattered over the country, the great expanse of these savan-
nas are united in one continuous body, winding around the coast,
from the Pearl to the Sabine river. The prairies of Opelousas and
Attacapas, are like bays, indenting the country. Some are, indeed,
detached, such as Prairie Grand Chevreuil, Prairie Laurent, Prairie
Petite Bois, Grand Prairie, Prairie Mamou, and some others of less
note, but the lines of woods between them are generally very nar-
row. For every purpose of a general sketch, those prairies may be
Considered as forming one immense meadow. Their peculiar traits

52 IMMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

will be noticed when treating on each part of the country in detail,
There exists but two routes from New Orleans to Opelousas and
Attacapas, the upper by Plaquemine, and the lower by Lafourche
and Teche. The former is the common channel of commerce.
The produce of the country, and merchandise, are transported in
large barges, from twenty to fifty tons burden.

It is only when the Mississippi is high, that any communication by
water with the interior exists by Plaquemine. The latter stream is
merely a small outlet of the" Mississippi, into which water ceases to
be discharged, when the river falls about ten feet within its banks.

The Mississippi has annually two floods ; the first, in ordinary sea-
sons, about New-year. There are but few years without a swells
about the foregoing season, sufficient to permit boats to pass Plaque-
mine. This first flood is almost uniformly succeeded by a depres-
sion previous to the great spring inundation.

The banks of Plaquemine are extremely fertile, but gradually de-
press in receding from the Mississippi. It is fifteen miles, following
the stream from its efflux, to the discharge of Plaquemine into the
Atchafalaya. Only the left shore of Plaquemine is inhabited ; the
right bank is too low, and in addition to that defect, is exposed to the
incumbent waters of the Mississippi. There are some excellent farms
on this stream, the general produce, cotton and lumber.

The Atchafalaya, as has been noticed, 13 strictly the continuation
of Red river : it leaves the Mississippi two miles below the mouth of
the former, and flows with extreme rapidity, when the Mississippi is
at its greatest height. At times of low water no current enters At-
chafalaya ; the river becomes stagnant in all its length. Though some
settlements have been attempted on its banks, there is very little land
on Atchafalaya fit for culture. The soil is, indeed, excellent, but
mostly exposed to inundation.

A narrow strip of high land skirts the stream on its left shore, for
about six miles from its efflux. Some small spots of high land occur
on the right bank, below the Bayou de Glaize, which falls in from the
west, five miles from the Mississippi. Bane formerly grew upon this
land, but is now mostly destroyed by the settlers.

Descending farther down the river, some small points of excellent
land occur ; but the banks and adjacent country are mostly submerg-
ed annually ; and about twenty miles from its efflux all possibility
of settlement ceases.

This river exhibits the singular phenomenon of being choked
with timber, brought by the floods from the Mississippi. Sfome ex-
traordinary tales have been published respecting this mass of timber;
such as being sufficiently compact to admit of horses and men pass-
ing, as on a bridge ; of having large trees growing upon it, and final-
ly, of having been passed unperceived. The falsity of all this, the
author can aver from his own personal observation, having surveyed
the right bank of the river, on all the parts where the rafts are lodged.
Men may pass in many places, but in none without difficulty and
danger. The timber rises and falls with the water ; is continually
shifting ; lies in all directions, leaving large enterstices open, and fre-
"Mp-Qtly moves in a body, from the weight of the incumbent mass.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 53

It is about twenty miles from the upper to the lower extremity of
the raft ; ten miles only of this is actually choked with timber.

Five miles below the lower large raft, the Courtableau river comes
in from Opelousas.

Thus far, the Atchafalaya pursues a south course, distant in a direct
line from the Mississippi thirty-eight miles. One-half mile below
the entrance of Courtableau, the navigation of Atchafalaya is
again interrupted by a small raft of timber. The inhabitants
of Opelousas have been at great expense and trouble to open a
passage through the latter raft. It has been cut several times, but by
the shifting of the timber has again closed: a channel is now open,
but as no effectual means have been taken to prevent the residue of
the timbek to float into the passage, its remaining open for any length
of time is precarious.

Twenty miles, by direct course, below the mouth of Courtableau, is
the head of Cow-Island ; the intermediate space the river flows a lit-
tle east of south ; the adjacent country annually overflowed. Cow-
Island is about five miles in length, the river dividing into a number
of channels, mostly flowing towards lake Chetimaches. Below Cow-
Island the river turns east fifteen miles, and, as has been noticed, re-
ceives the Plaquemine. The junction of these two streams may be
considered as the centre of departure to the various points in Attaca-
pas and Opelousas.

Several persons, who are residents on Plaquemine, are provided
with convenient boats, by which men and horses are transported to
their destination. The expense cannot be easily estimated, so much
depends upon the emergency of the occasion. Travellers have sel-
dom to wait long for a passage, though frequently compelled to pay
amply for prompt conveyance.

There are three principal routes that diverge from the junction of
Plaquemine ; by the Atchafalaya, in descending to the junction of
that river and the Teche ; by an outlet to lake Chetimaches, which
leads to St. Martinsville and New Iberia*, and by the Atchafalaya in
ascending to Opelousas. From the last route another diverges, lead-
ing to the upper settlements on Teche and Vermilion. t

Ten miles below the junction of the Atchafalaya and Plaquemine,
is the lower raft in the latter river. An outlet leaves the river from
its left shore, which leading into lake Natchez, conducts the naviga-
tor into the main stream by another water-course connecting the
lake and river, at the lower extremity of the former. Twenty miles
below lake Natchez, the Atchafalaya joins lake Chetimaches, and
three miles lower down receives the Teche river. Twenty miles
below the mouth of the Teche, the Atchafalaya falls into the gulf of
Mexico. If the various rafts were removed out of the Atchafalaya,
its channel would afford very great commercial facilities ; but there
are few rivers whose banks are of less value in an agricultural point
of view. Except a short distance near the Mississippi, a few small
spots above ihe great raft, some very confined points between the
Courtableau and Plaquemine, the protrusion near the mouth of Teche,

* See route No. 15 Si 1(5. t See route No. 14.

54 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

and Rice's island, the bank of Atchafalaya is entirely overflowed,
and rendered unfit for settlement.

The second route, by the lower Tensaw, leads into lake Chetima-
ches, to the Fausse point landing, and from thence to St. Martinsville.*
This is the most frequented by navigators and travellers, entering
into the central parts of Attacapas ; it can only be used, however, at
high water, as at seasons when the streams are low, the communica-
tion with Atchafalaya is rendered impassable for boats.

The route by lake Natchez is used only by the inhabitants of
lower Teche : it is the most circuitous of any of the channels of com-
munication between Attacapas, Opelousas, and the Mississippi.

Portage is made from the Mississippi into Plaquemine, at low water,
the distance by land, four miles. The tide flows up the Atchafalaya
and Plaquemine, in the months of October and November, to Blake's,
at the lower point of portage from the Mississippi. From this place,
boats can at all seasons pass lake Natchez and the mouth of Teche.

The calculated distance from Blake's to Opelousas court-house, is
ninety miles, or thirty French leagues. That part of Atchafalaya
which intervenes between the Pkiquemine and Cow-Island, has but
little current, and is denominated, by the inhabitants of Opelousas.,
" the Big river." Above Cow Island the outlet leaves the main
stream, which again subdividing into a number of lakes and channels,
affords two inlets, leading into Attacapas and Opelousas. The lowei:
of these two inlets leads by Bayou Fusilier, to the Acadien point
landing ; the upper is the passage to Opelousas, when the raft near
the mouth of Courtableau intersects the navigation of Atchafalaj^a.

Above Cow-Island the Atchafalaya is, at high water, as rapid in
its course as the Mississippi.

The Courtableau is a gentle stream, except when swelled by rains„
in Opelousas and Rapides, at seasons when the Atchafalaya is low.

A singular phenomenon is visible in the region between the efflux
of Atchafalaya and the head of lake Chetimaches. The current is
here more violent than in any other part of the inundated lands of
Louisiana ; and when the waters are at their highest elevation, the
waters flow to the southward, without being much influenced by the
channels of the streams. Below the mouth of Bayou Derbane, the
tide rushes obliquely across the river Courtableau, and continuing
between that stream and the high lands of Teche, enters lake Che-
timaches. The same appearances exhibit themselves in the Atchafa-
laya, between the mouth of Courtableau and Cow-Island, and the
surplus waters from the latter river also find a deposite in lake Che-
timaches.

Nothing can be more dreary than a voyage at high water from the
Mississippi over this sunken plain. The gloom of this flooded forest,
however, heightens the delight of at once being introduced into the
cheerful and expansive meadows of Opelousas and Attacapas. As-
cending the Courtableau, indications of high land are first seen eight
miles above its junction with Atchafalaya, where spots of cane ap-
pear, and the banks near the outlet of a small stream., rises above

■* See route No. 15.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 55

casual overflow. Above the mouth of Bayou Derbane, first appears
banks that would admit culture ; the selvage of high ground is here,
however, confined, and not until ascending the stream nine miles far-
ther to Barb's, will the traveller be greeted with the habitations of
man. Here is the first prairie met with, ia coming up the Courtableau ;
it is small, three miles by two, and detached from the expanded sa-
vannas of Opelousas. The place affords a specimen of the rich and
beautiful country to the south and west.

Ascending the stream six miles above Bare"s, brings the voyager to
Carron's landing, and five miles by land from thence to the church of
St. Landre\

There are three places that are considered as landing places in Ope-
jousas ; Barb's, Carron's, and Le Melle's. Before entering mare finally
into detail on the productions, roads, political divisions, and other
localities of Opelousas and Attacapas, it will be necessary to sketch
the geological structure of those places.

Attacapas and Opelousas, when taken in connexion, form a natural
division, distinguished from the adjacent country by peculiar features ;
but the lines of separation between those two places respectively, are(
in great part artificial. The two places are relatively situated N. VV.
and S. E. ; Attacapas occupying the southeastern, and Opelousas the
-northwestern position.

Opelousas is bounded south by the gulf of Mexico ; west by the
Sabine river ; north by the 31° N. lat. ; northeast by the parish of
Avoyelles ; east by Atcbafalaya : and southeast by Attacapas

Attacapas is bounded southwest and south by the gulf of Mexico ;
southwest by Opelousas : and northeast and easts by Atchafalaya
river. Opelousas extends over 7600, and Attacapas over 5100 square
miles, forming together an extent of 12,700 square miles.

The rivers of Opelousas, are Sabine, Calcasiu, Mermentau, Cour-.
tableau, and Atchafalaya ; those of Attacapas, are Mermentau, Ver-
milion, Teche, and Atchafalaya.

An immense chain of lakes and bays lies along the gulf of Mexico,
in front of Opelousas and Attacapas ; Sabme lake. Calcasiu lake,
Mermentau lake, the three bays of Vermilion, Cote Blanche, and
Atchafalaya, and lake Chetimaches.

Sabine river is part of the western limit of the state of Louisiana,
as well as the boundary of Opelousas. The mouth of Sabine lies in
29° 36' N. lat. and 16*° 57' VV. from Washington city ; the adjacent
country is an entire prairie, not a single tree of any kind being visible
from the sea-shore. The river is about a quarter of a mile wide at
its discharge into the gulf, and maintains that width six miles, where
it dilates into a wide shallow lake of thirty miles in length by eight
wide ; its depth does not, at a medium, exceed three feet. The coun-
try in all directions near the Sabine lake is prairie. A few clumps ol
trees stand on the bank near the entrance of the river into the head
of the lake, but are (ew, and of stunted growth.

Three miles southwest of the mouth of Sabine, info the head of the
lake, the Natchez comes in from the N. W. This latter stream
rjses in, and waters part of Texas, and under the head of that pro-
vince its features will be noticed. Above the lake, the Sabine is

56 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

contracted to a stream of about 200 yards wide, its channel exces-
sively winding. The entrance of Sabine into the lake may be
known by persons coming up the lake, by the following means. The
range of the lake isN. E. bv N., and between the Netchez and Sa-
bine run banks of white shells, behind which are a few scattering
trees ; turning the view in the direction of the lake, an immense
mound of shells will appear on the right, crowned with dwarf trees,
the last tbat are visible in that course. The river enters the lake at
the western extremity of this latter bank of shells, and is not percep-
tible until within a very short distance ef its mouth.

Ten miles above the lake the prairie ceases, and woods enclose the
river on both banks. About half way between the lake and woods,
the western shore rises above inundation ; the soil is, however, poor
and thin. Pine is the first trees that are seen, and are, indeed, ex-
cept on bottoms liable to inundation, the prevailing timber, on and
near Sabine, in all its length.

Above the woods there is nothing very remarkable to be noted re-
specting the Sabine. One bank, generally the western, is high and
sometimes hilly. At N. lat. 30° the Wacabatcha, a considerable
stream, falls in from the N. W. As high as the bounds of Opelousas
31° N. lat. no creeks of any consequence enter from the eastern, and
the adjacent country is generally pine wood ; soil barren, as is usual,
where that timber prevails.

The next river east of the Sabine is the Calcasiu. The latter
stream rises in the parish of Natchitoches, in 31° 30' N. lat. and
pursuing nearly a south course, falls into the gulf of Mexico, forty
miles east of the Sabine. Like other streams in its vicinity, tbe
Calcasiu dilates into a large lake, and again contracts to the form of
a river, before entering the gulf of Mexico. The Sabine and Cal-
casiu lakes have great resemblance to each other ; the latter is rather
the most extensive. It may be noted as a singularity, that the head
of both are marked by shell banks, which occur upon no other part
of the banks of either.

These two lakes may be now considered as the retreat of the
wild fowl, of the duck and goose species, who have encountered to
the eastward their great destroyer man I These creatures are yet
found in immense flocks in the winter season, in every part of tbe
country, but in no one place io such quantity as the two lakes of
Sabine and Calcasiu.

Tbe Mermentau may, with propriety, be called the river of Ope-
lousas, from where its branches are all drawn, and some of the finest
parts of which it waters. The Bayou Plaquemine, Brule Cane, and
Nezpique, and the Queue Tortue, are the constituent streams that
form the Mermentau. The features of the country, watered by the
latter river, have considerable resemblance to those places that are
drained by Sabine and Calcasiu, but the traveller can perceive on
the eastern waters of the Mermentau his approach towards the delta
of the Mississippi. Pine becomes more rare, the various species of
oak more frequent ; the soil evidently of much better quality. The
prairies are more elevated and diversified. The lower part of the
Mermentau, like its neighbours, opens into a spacious lake, and before

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 57

its exit to the sea, again assumes the form and width of a small
river.

The depth of water upon the respective bars of the three forego-
ing rivers, does not materially differ. The coast, from the mouth
of the Sabine to that of the Mermentau, and, in fact, to Vermilion
bay, is remarkably uniff,ra. There is a small projection east of the
mouth of Sabine, which is composed of soft mud ; this projection
extends about three miles, where it is followed by a hard sandy
beach mixed with shells, and in a distance of thirty seven-miles: be-
tween the mud bank of Sabine and mouth of Calcasiu, only one nar-
row inlet occurs. The shore is here uniform, as the side of a wharf,
bearing north seventy east by magnetic courses, which direction it
maintains to the mouth of the Mermentau. On almost all the maps,
hitherto published ot this coast, the bearings and general appearance
is most wretchedly delineated. Gauld's map of the coast of the gulf
of Mexico, and some of the Spanish charts, are exceptions to this re-
proach. Lafon's map of Louisiana exhibits the range of the coast as
bearing about south seventy degrees east, and very much indented.
From either the positions or delineations of this map, no person could
possibly recognise the shore of this country. When the author of
this treatise surveyed the coast in 1812-13, he was supplied with
one of Lafon's Maps, and made the comparison on the spot between
the map and the positions in nature.

Advancing to the eastward of the Mermentau, the first stream that
occurs is the Vermilion. It is, perhaps, an anomaliy in geography,
that the same sources contribute to form the Mermentau, Vermilion,
Teche, and Courtableau rivers ; but such is the fact.

The neighbourhood of Opelousas church, is a kind of table land,
from which the waters flow as from a common centre. Without re-
ference to a good map, it is very difficult to explain the very compli-
cated structure of this singular country. The water-courses are in-
terwoven into each other, with an intricacy that demands much at-
tention to comprehend with precision. Three miles northwest of
Opelousas church, there is, surrounded by prairie, a body of woods
two miles long and a half mile wide. This isolated forest is not un-
aptly called Isle au L'Anglois. The denomination of island is not
unappropriate when applied to a copse standing in a sea of grass.

From the east side of this island, flows the head waters of the Mer-
mentau. The source of the river is an extensive low wet plain..
The water gradually collects into a single channel, which passes to
the southward, within less than a mile of Opelousas church ; and con-
tinuing that course about three miles, divides ; one part running east-
ward into Bayow Bourbe>, contributes to form the Vermilion ; the
other runs southwest, into Bayou Plaquemine Bruise, and finally, in-
to the Mermentau river.

Three miles north of Opelousas eourt-house, the drains of the
prairie are connected ; part of the water flows north, into Bayou
Grand Louis, and the other south, forming the head of Bayofl
Bourbie\

Twenty miles northwest from Opelousas church in Grand Prairie,
rises Bayou Grand Louis, which in its progress receives the wates

ft EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

from the various prairies with which it is environed, and at C'arron's
landing is a large creek. A branch flowing from the eastward of
Opelousas court-house, joins Bayou Grand Louis at Carron's landing.
The stream, now bearing the name of Bayou Carron, flows a little
more than half a mile, divides ; one part running to the S. E. forms
the Tecbe, and the other part continuing the name of Bayou Carron,
after a course of less than two miles, falls into the Courtableau river.
In the old maps of land in Opelousas, Bayou Grand Louis is named
Teche ; of which latter it is really the source. After leaving Bayou
Carron, the Teche flows to the southeast seven miles, receives an
outlet of the Courtableau, which leaves that river at Barb's. Below
the junction the streams flow to the southward ten miles, and re-
ceives from the west Bayou Bourse. This latter stream is formed
from the various drains of the prairies to the southward of Opelousas
church. Its extreme northern source is, as has been observed, three
miles north of the latter place ; but is at the church only a mere drain ;
continues to the south about eight miles, and is augmented by Chre-
tien's Bayou, a large creek from Prairie Bellevue ; it then turns
southeast along the Grand Cofeaux, about four miles, divides ; < ne
part turning east enters the Teche, the other south, receives Bayou
Carrion Crow three miles below, and thence ihe united stream bears
the name of Vermilion river. In the latter, three miles below the en-
trance of Carrion Crow, Bayou Pont Brule comes in from the east-
ward. The Vermilion continues to flow southward ten miles ; is
augmented by the Bayou Queue Tortue, from the vicinity of St. Mar-
tinsville, and turns to the southwest, sixteen or seventeen miles.
Within a very small distance from the 30° N. lat. the Vermilion
again bends to the southeast ten miles, and then assumes a south
course of twelve miles, falls into Vermilion bay. Below the Queue
Tortue, no creeks of any note enter the Vermilion.

The eastern division of Bayou Bourbe bears the name of Bayou
Fusilier, and is the last tributary stream which enters the Teche.
Below the Fusilier the Teche forms an immense bend to the eastward,
southward, and westward, of twelve miles, in a channel almost as uni-
form as if formed by art ; it then recurves again southeastward five
miles, and assumes a south course fifteen miles ; passes St. Martins-
ville, and flows to M. St. Maur's plantation, where commences the
Fausse point bend. This latter curve is twenty two miles in circuit,
and yet the river comes again within less than 1^ miles of M. St.
Maur's house. The river then rapidly turns to the southward, and
about two miles from this turn, passes New Iberia. It is only
nine. miles from St. Martinsville to New Iberia by land, and upwards
of thirty by water. Below New Iberia, the Teche flows twenty
miles southeast to M. Sorrel's plantation. The river then turns
to the eastward, and in a direct distance o» thirteen miles, to
the court-house of St. Mary's ; forms two great bfnds ; the upper of
thirteen and the lower twenty miles. Beiow the tatter bend the ri-
ver flows a little south of east twenty-five miles, and falls into the At-
chafalaya.

The entire length of the Teche, if Bayou Grand Louis is included,
exceeds one hundred and seventy miles. There exi?t- no known ri-
ver on the globe with traits of exact analogy to the Teche ; many of

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 59

its features are peculiar to itself. On examination of the country
through which it flows, the mind is left at a loss to account for the
possibility of a river being formed where its channel is situated. In
the general structure of its banks, it bears a resemblance to the Mis-
sissippi, but that single feature excepted, no other likeness between
the two rivers exists ; and the Teche differs more again from the
Vermilion, Mermentau, Calcasiu, and Sabine, than even from the
Mississippi.

It is by analogy that verbal descriptions are understood, and for
that simple reason, it is almost impossible to describe the Teche, in
•language conveying clear conceptions of the object ; as there is no
river with which it can be correctly compared.

The reader may, as far as possible, conceive a stream of upwards
of one hundred miles in length, gradually widening and deepening
without any visible source of augmentation. At the mouth of Bayou
Fusilier, the Teche is at low water not more than three feet deep,
and about fifty yards from high bank to high bank ; and where it
enters the Atchafalaya, it is upwards of two hundred yards wide,
and more than twenty in depth. Vessels drawing five feet water go
up to New Iberia. The tide often flows above that place. Though
there are, when the magnitude of the stream is estimated, some of
the most extensive bends in the Teche that can be found in any
known river, yet the channel is, as has been noticed, so extremely
regular as to imitate if not surpass the efforts of art.

The banks are high ; and sloping gradually from the water, rise
far above any swell ever known in the river. Though evidently
formed by alluvion, the banks of the Teche must have been accumu-
lated by means of a situation of things that no longer exists. There
must have been a time when a body of water annually inundated
this country ; but those floods have found another vent, for ages past;
and at this time, the banks of the Teche inherit the inexhaustible fer-
tility of alluvial soil, without subjecting their inhabitants to the in*
convenience of inundation.

At this epoch it is difficult to conceive of any lands being superior
to those of the Teche ; and however formed, they richly repay their
cultivators. We will resume the subject of the local positions of this
river, and the vegetable productions, after completing a topographi-
cal sketch of the country under review.

The Courtableau is the stream of the cultivated parts of Opelousas
that unites that fins country with the regions watered by the Missis-
sippi. So much has been observed respecting the Courtableau, when
treating of the navigable routes from New Orleans to Opelousas and
Attacapas, as much to abridge the labour of detail in this place.
It will be sufficient to observe, that the Courtable'-u is formed by
the confluent streams of the Bayous, Crocodile, and Bceuf ; which
after flowing from the pine hills S. W. of Alexandria in Rapides, in a
nearly parallel course of about seventy miles by a direct line, unite
ei^ht miles north of Opelousas church, and forms the Courtableau.
More will be given in the sequel respecting this river. We will take
up the description of the prairies of Opelousas and Attacapas, whicfe
fvill complete the natural topography of the country.

60 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

It has been already noticed, that the extensive prairies of that
country -die. strictly speaking, all connected, and that those in the
in'erior ate mere bays of the vast open sea marsh, The subdivisions
have all, however, received local names, under which we will de-
lineate them in this piace, following the same order we have pursued
with the. rivers.*

THE SABINE PRAIRIE occupies all the space between that
river and Calcasiu. Near the sea-shore, this prairie is an extensive
marsh; but on receding from the gulf, the surfacp gradually rises;
and before reaching the woods, much high land is found. The soil
is, like that of the adjacent pine woods, almost all sterile. Few
settlements have been formed in this quarter ; and from its position
and the barrenness cf the land, it is not very probable any con-
siderable number of people will be found upon it for many years to
come. No surveys have yet been made by the United States on any
water that enters the Sabine river ; of course, the kw families that
are settled near that stream, are either on land granted by the French
or Spanish governments, or are unauthorized intruders upon the pub-
lic soil. Not more than two or three grants were ever made by the
Spanish government of land on the waters of Sabine, and those were
all above 31° N. lat. The French government, while in the political
possession of Louisiana, though always claiming right of territory to
the Rio Grande del Norte, never made grants of land west of the
waters of the Mermentau.

The surveyors under the government of the United States, in per-
forming surveys in Louisiana, were limited south of Red river to the
meridian of Natchitoches. This arrangement left unsurveyed all the
lands watered by the Sabine, and part of those of Red and Calca-
mo rivers.

CALCASIU PRAIRIE. This prairie, including the marsh be-
tween the Calcasiu and Mermentau lake, is seventy miles long, and
will average twenty wide, or 1400 square miles, equal to 896,000
acres. Of this expanse about 640,000 acres is sufficiently elevated
for cultivation ; but the soil is poor and sterile. The pine woods
border the prairie in every direction where timber is found. Copses
of black jack oak, interspersed with pine, are found along the Nez-
pique. The woods on Bayou Lacasine are of mixed growth, pine,
oak, hickory, and ash, on the high land, and in the swamps, cypress
and maple. On the N. VV. part of this prairie, in the vicinity of the
little and upper lake of Calcasiu, is the best soil to be found in its
whole extent. The timber is here a mixture of pine, black-oak, red-
oak, hickory, ash, and other trees, that indicate a second rate soil.
Some spots are, indeed, naturally fertile ; but the general surface is
sterile.

The meridian of Natchitoches runs through the western part of the
Calcasiu Prairie, leaving the upper lake out of the surveys made by
the authority of the United States government. Some partial grants
were made by the Spanish government, to spots of land on the waters
of Calcasiu, and some settlements have been formed upon this rivej;

* See table No. J, in the Appendix to this work.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 61

without any grant ; but the greatest part of the country remains in
pristine state. The general surface of the country is certainly su-
perior to that watered by the Sabine, though the deteriorating influ-
ence of the clay soil of the pine hills is every where visible.

The eastern border of the Calcasiu Prairie on the waters of Mer-
raentau river, is tolerably well peopled. Many of the largest stocks
of cattle in Opelousas are to be found in this range. Good crops of
corn are made by the manure produced in the folds where cattle are
collected. The pursuits of all the inhabitants are pastoral ; agricul-
ture is only exercised to obtain the common necessaries of life, bread,
and garden vegetables. The houses and their appurtenances evince
the simplicity of the modes of existence of their occupants.

A journey from New Orleans to the mouth of the Sabine, exhibits
man in every stage of his progress, from the palace to the hut, and
inversely. To an observing eye, the rapid transition from the su-
perb mansions of the wealthy citizens of New Orleans and its vicini-
ty, to the rudely constructed log cabin, on the Sabine and Calcasiu,
will suggest matter for the deepest reflection. In the short period of
ten or fifteen days, can be viewed the moral revolutions of all ages.
On a space of three hundred miles can be found human beings
from die most civilized to the most savage. In the city of New Or-
leans, four or five of the most elegant of the living languages of the
earth are now spoken in all their purity ; and there is now enjoyed all
that luxury and learning can bestow. Upon the banks of the Mis-
sissippi many of the sugar and cotton planters live in edifices, where,
within and without, are exhibited all that art, aided by wealth, can
produce. In Attacapas and Opelousas the glare of expensive lux-
ury vanishes, and is followed by substantial independence. Often
the loom occupies one part of the common sitting room or parlour
of families that are really wealthy. The farm houses are generally
rough, but solid buildings, in which the inhabitant enjoys good,
wholesome, and abundant food, and excellent beds.

In the western parts of Opelousas are found those pastoral hunters,
who recall to our imagination the primitive times of history. Their
flocks and the chase furnish them with subsistence and occupation.
Lodged in cabins rudely and hastily constructed, and really enjoy-
ing safety and plenty, it cannot be an illusion of fancy to consider
these people as in possession of that object, happiness, that too otten
eludes the pursuit of men more highly cultivated. This is not a fan-
cied picture ; the writter often has, and particularly between the 3d
and 15th of January, 1813, passed from the Sabine through Opelou-
sas to New Orleans, and beheld, in reality, all the various gradations,
to the contemplation of which he now invites his reader.

In the deep and solemn gloom of the Sabine woods, and the more
imposing immensity of its prairies, has he often reflected upon the
slow, but certain advance of the descendants of Europe in America.
He considered himself as upon or near the line of contact, between
two of those masses of civilized men, who have changed the political,
religious, and moral state of this continent. The few inhabitants to
be seen upon this confine of two empires, seem to indicate the utmost
verge of inhabited earth, and the earliest dawn of human improve-

62 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

merit. It is but justice to those men to say, that as far as the
experience of the writer can enable him to judge of their character,
they do ample justice to the long received opinion of the natural hos-
pitality of man. He never once, in thp course of many years, was
turned away hungry from the door, or denied a nightly shelter under
the roof of one of those apparently uncultivated sons of the forest.
Oftentimes has he experienced from them, when weary and exhaust-
ed, a warm and generous reception, that many who repose on beds
of down might blush to behold. From this honourable and true cha-
racter, the much and very unjustly abused inhabitant of the Spanish
Presidios is no exception. On an immense extent of territory these
latter pursue exactly the same modes of life with the western people
of Opelousas, and are distinguished by the same virtues.

There is a common and a vulgar observation very prevalent, in
which the frontier inhabitants of Louisiana, the Spanish internal pro-
vinces, and even those of the United States, are assimilated to the
native savage tribes, whose former residence these frontier men now
occupy. Disgusting expressions, such as " they are just as bad
as Indians" — " they are worse than savages" — " I would rather
live amongst Choctawsor Shawnees," may be heard daily in some of
the most polished circles, when speaking of the men that compose
that .hardy phalanx, whose generous bravery has oftentimes saved
those declaimers from the tomahawk, scalping knife, or fire-brand of
these same savages.

It may be asserted, without danger of contradiction, that the fron-
tier men of the United States, the pastoral creole of Louisiana, and
the horsemen of the Spanish internal provinces, are in a much
greater degree superior to the aboriginal savages of America, in point
of improvement, than they are inferior in mental endowments to the
most polished society in Philadelphia, New-York, London, Paris,
Rome, or Berlin Whatever may be the cause, it is a fact, that the
moral qualities of the American savages have been extolled far above
their real merits, and the character of the pioneers of wealth, com-
merce, and education, depreciated in about the same ratio ; and in,
both instances, pretended philosophy has made inductions in direct
opposition to the facts upon which those inductions are supposed to be
founded.

Mistaken zeal has exhausted, in the last two centuries, upon the ob-
curate savage of this continent, means, that if applied to the use and as-
sistance of some of our own frontier villages, would have rendered them
seats of industry, abundance, and happiness. We are every day enter-
tained with the accounts of missionaries, sent to convert to Christi-
anity, and instruct in useful knowledge, Indian tribes ; but who has
ever heard of missions being sent to the banks of Mennentau ; whilst
it will hardly admit a doubt, that more knowledge could be instilled
into the minds of the two thousand pewple now on that river, in twen-
ty years, than could be imparted in two centuries to all the savage
tribes Irom the Mexican gull to Hudson's bay.

PRAIRIE MAMOU is'enclosed between two branches of the Mer-
mentau ; the Nezpique and Plaquemine Brule : it is about forty
miles in length, by a medial breadth of five, or extends over 200

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 6,3

square miles, making 128,000 acres. The land and timber in the
vicinity of this prairie are very various. All the timber trees known in
Opelousas, except liriodendron tulipifera, (poplar) are to be found on
the border of Prairie Mamou. Some spots of land are moderately fer-
tile, bul the common quality of the land is sterile. There are only
a few of the inhabitants who are not pastoral in their pursuits. Many
families are established here as hired stock-holders ; they are nearly
all Americans, as the emigrants from the United States are denomina-
ted in Louisiana.

GRAND PRAIRIE is next east of Prairie Mamou, and of very
near a similar extent. This latter prairie is partly on the waters of
Merrnentau. Courtableau, and Teche. Tbe land in Grand Prairie is
much superior to that of any of the preceding, though the soil and
timber of the southwestern part assimilate to those in Prairie Mam-
ou. The border of Grand Prairie is thickly peopled ; many of its
inhabitants are wealthy farmers, and few persons are exclusively pas-
toral in their pursuits.

The population here is a mixture of French and Americans ; the
former are the most numerous and wealthy. Great part of the best
land in Grand Prairie was granted to individuals by the governments
of France and Spain. But few spots of any valae remained vacant
when the United States government obtained the country. Some of
the most agreeable and healthy situations in Opelousas, are found ia
Grand Prairie. The well water is excellent. There are many wet
places, but none that can be called stagnant ; few marshes exist. The
common crops are maize and cotton ; the latter is the staple for mar-
ket. The land is very well adapted to the culture of cotton, particu-
larly the parts watered by Bayou Grand Louis. By a singular coin-
cidence, the land on the latter stream assimilates to that on the Te-
che, Beef, pork, butter, cheese, and tallow, are also produced in
considerable quantities. The settlements are increasing rather by
natural means, than by emigration from other places. Though the
price of land is less in Grand Prairie than on the Teche, in a ratio
of one to three, yet, from its situation, and from the production of
sugar, most of the emigrants who have removed to Opelousas, in the
fourteen years that have elapsed since the establishment of the United
States government, have finally settled on the Teche, or in its vi-
cinity.

The timber in the woods that border Grand Prairie, on the watess
of Metmentau, consists of oak of several species, ash, hickory, dog-
wood, pine, linden, laurel-magnolia, and some maple, and wild
cherry. On the Teche is found black-oak, white-oak, red-oak,
willow-oak, sassafras, poplar, linden, ash, hickory, dogwood, wild
cherry, laurel-magnolia, and a number of other species of trees.
The underwood, spice wood, Spanish mulberry, muscadine,
grape vine, and other vines and shrubbery, indicative of a
productive soil. When the settlements were first formed, the
woodland was covered with large cane, (arundo gigantea ;) but the
swine, cattle, and fire, have almost exterminated this vegetable, west
of Bayou Crocodile. In severe winters, the cane is a most invalua-
ble resource for cattle ; but it is a grass that always disappears in a

64 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

short time after the establishment of man and his domestic animal?.
in its neighbourhood

OPELOUSAS PRAIRIE extends from the gulf of Mexico, nearly
north eighty miles, and is bounded on the east and north by the Ver-
milion and Teche rivers, and on the west by the woods of Bayou
Mtdlet, Bayou Cane, and by the Mermentau river. This sea of
grass is, on an average, twenty-five miles wide ; and extends over,
including the sea marsh, upwards of 1,200,000 acres. Some of the
most flourishing settlements of Opelousas and Attacapas are in this
prairie. It is naturally divided into six distinct portions, the sea
marsh, the prairie between the Vermilion and Queue Tortue, Pra-
irie Bellevue, Queue Tortue Prairie, cove of Plaquemine Brule, and
Prairie Mellet.

The marsh between Vermilion bay and the lake of Mermentau,
has nothing to distinguish it from the other marshes of the country,
except its extent, which is about thirty miles square. This great ex-
panse, though generally covered with grass, is not entirely denuded
of trees. Near the sea coast, a singular appearance attracts the at-
tention. These are ridges which rise above the common level of the
marsh, are dry and solid land, clothed with live oak trees. These
ridges appear to have been once the sea shore, and to have been in
succession abandoned by the surf, as others were formed by the
same means ; they all run in lines parallel to the shore, and are se-
parated by lagoons, ponds, or the marsh. It is extremely difficult to
reach many of these islands; and as no adequate object presents it-
self to reward the trouble, they are visited but seldom by man. They
are the undisturbed retreats of wild animals, deer, turkies, grouse,
and perhaps the bear.

From an inspection of the structure of the sea-coast of Attacapas
and Opalousas, and in fact that of all Louisiana, we can hardly
doubt that those parts, properly called marsh, have been formed by
the reflux of the sea, whilst much of the interior has been created by
the alluvion of the various rivers. This hypothesis is strengthened
by the well known facts that in all Louisiana the quality of the soil
of any place is precisely similar to the general character of the land;
of the particular river from which it is formed.

The live oak islands, between Vermilion and Mermentau, have
their correlatives along the coast of Louisiana, as visited by the
author. The live oak tree entirely ceases with the Mermentau ; it
is not found upon either the Sabine or Calcasiu rivers.

From the great samei.ess of the coast, it is almost impossible, ei-
ther by map or verbal Ascription, to convey to any person a dis-
tinction between the entrances of Sabine, Calcasiu, or Mermentau.
The live oak tree is the only unerring mark. The author left the
mouth of Sabine, intending to pass Calcasiu and enter Mermentau;
but found an inlet between Sabine and Calcasiu, which he mistook
for the latter. Consequently, when he came to the real mouth of the
Calcasiu, he entered it, under a supposition that it was the Mermen-
tau. The mistake was not corrected, until ascending to the upper
lake of Calcasiu, he learned the truth from the inhabitants. From
its extreme inaccuracy, the only map he possessed gave him no in-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. f$

formation ; the rivers and lakes were so very inaccurately laid
down, that the map was, in fact, entirely useless. Having before
learned, from persons who had passed down the Mermentau to the
gulf, the abundance of live oak on that stream, it was with no little
astonishment he could find neither that nor any other tree on Calca-
siu river or lake, until penetrating the country upwards of forty
miles, the robinia pumila* first presented itself at the head of the
large lake.

Any person wishing in future to enter either of those rivers, may
be prevented from mistaking his object, by paying attention to the
live oak. If that tree is wanting on any river, he may be sure of be-
ing west of the Mermentau, as it grows in lesser or greater quanti-
ties on all rivers from the Mermentau to the Mississippi, and is never
to be found entirely wanting, as has been observed it is on the Sabine
andCalcasiu. The live oak tree affords a demarkatiun of climate ; and
proves, beyond dispute, that the atmosphere of Louisiana lowers in
temperature in advancing westward. On Mobile river the live oak
is found almost to 31° N. lat. Between Mobile and the Mississippi,
the live oak disappears about 30° 30', whilst on the latter stream it
fails ten miles farther south. On Atchafalaya it is seen above Cow-
Island as high as 30° 20' N. lat. In Attacapas, by a singular local
shelter, it grows upon the Teche at the junction of that river and
Bayou Fusilier. That its existence in the latter place arises from the
shelter of the adjoining woods is evident, as only four miles to the
west, where the tre^s are exposed to the sweeping winds of Prairie
Bellevue, the live oak is unknown ; and what is more remarkable, is,
that above the junction of Teche and Fusilier, on the north side of
the woods that border these streams, and within less than one mile
from where the live oak exhibits trees three feet in diameter, it is
entirely wanting, without any evidence remaining of its ever having
existed. At Opelousas church, ten minutes north of the junction of
Teche and Fusilier, the live oak is an exotic preserved with diffk
culty.

On the waters of Mermentau river, the live oak appears first near
the junction of Bayou Nezpique and Plaquemine Brule\ and does not
advance more than three miles north of that place. On Lacasine a
few stems appear. West of the latter Bayou, as far as known to the
author, the tree entirely disappears. Whilst sheltered by the thick
forests of the Alabama territory and state of Mississippi, and by the
equally impervious woods of the Mississippi swamps, the live oak can
exist ; but when exposed to the chilling winds of the interminable
prairies of Texas, this fine and valuable tree perishes. That its ex-
istence depends upon local position is demonstrated by the single cir-

* This species of the robinia, is probably a non-descript The tree grows
about fifteen feet high, dark sealy bark ; the thorns are very numerous and
sharp pointed ; the leaves are small, oval, and pinnated, of a light green colour;
the pericarp is a legume, shaped like a common bean ; the fruit oval, flatted, and
of a dusky green. The name of dwarf robinia. given to this tree in the test, is
not very appropriate, as many other species of that family are equally humble:
robinia aquatica, or maritima, would be more characteristic. The author first
saw the robinia pumila growing at Mr. Bringier's on the Acadien coast, wherft
It had been introduced by that gentleman as a proper component of hedges.
9

66 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

cumstance, that it grows farther north both east and west, than on
the Mississippi. This is the case with many other vegetables, and
it is obviously owing to the cooling of the air by means of that great
river, and to the vent given by its channel, to winds of a tempera-
ture below that of the adjacent country.

That part of Opelousas Prairie lying between Vermilion river and
Bayou Queue Tortue, rises above the sea marsh, and exhibits some
spots favourable to agriculture. The soil on the Vermilion is much
superior to that on Queue Tortue, though le^s extensive. The mar-
gin of the woods are settled on both sides of the prairie. Those per-
sons who reside on Queue Tortue are generally pastoral ; those on
Vermilion agricultural.

BELLEVUE PRAIRIE is upwards of thirty miles in length from
north to south, and at a medium, six miles wide from east to west.
Few places have ever received a more appropriate name ; the most
agreeable, productive, and best cultivated parts of Opelousas and At-
tacapas are in this beautiful expanse. The church of St. Landre is
on an elevated spot on the eastern border of Prairie Bellevue ; and the
town and seat of justice for the parish stands in a bay, that passing
the church and town, extends to the southeast three miles, and termi-
nates at the woods of Bayou Bourbfje The inhabitants of the coun-
try confine the name of Prairie Bellevue to that particular part
which stretches from the point of woods below the church to Chre-
tien's, about six miles, and give other local appellations to the several
bays that indent the woods of the Vermilion to the south, and Bayou
Grand Louis to the north of the church and town. The term
Prairie Bellevue has been made general in Darby's Louisiana, and
used in this treatise so as to include the range of prairie lying be-
tween M. Fontenot's, in Opelousas, to the lower extremity of the
Penault settlement in Attacapas. There were in Opelousas upwards
of five thousand people in 1810, more than one half of whom were in
this prairie.

A very marked difference exists in the soil in the various parts of
Bellevue ; the eastern border is variegated, much of the surface roll-
ing, and the land extremely fertile ; the middle parts in the open
prairie fertile, some parts elevated, but mostly flat and wet, though
not marshy, so that cattle and horses pass it in all directions without
danger or difficulty. The western part upon Bayou Queue Tortue,
Bayou Plaquemine Brule, and Bayou Mellet, varies with the general
effect of these several water-courses : upon Queue Tortue the soil is
sterile; upon Plaquemine Brule and Mellet. of second rate quality ;
the northern upon Bayou Grand Louis, partaking of the beauty and
fertility of the land of Teche.

Queue Tortue Prairie, the cove of Plaquemine Brule, and Prairie
Mellet, are merely bays extending from Praire Bellevue, in the di-
rection of the several streams from which their distinctive appella-
tions have been taken. The land in these three latter prairies is
generally flat and wet, and extremely well adapted to produce the
most abundant pasturage. Some parts, however, are sufficiently ele-
vated for tillage, and though the soil is naturally thin, yet it re-
tains manure with great tenacity ; a quality indeed common to all

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. - 67

the prairie lands of Opelousas and Attacapas, and which they derive
from the almost total absence of sand in their composition.

The timber in every part around ihe Bellevue Prairie is excellent,
particularly the various kinds of oak. A singular phenomenon often,
marked by the author, is to be seen here ; the liriodendron tulipifera*
(poplar) is abundant, and very large in all the woods in the vicinity
of Opelousas; but in the woods to the westward of Prairie Bellevue,
this tree has never been seen ; the same remark may, in a great mea-
sure, however, be made respecting the black walnut, which, though
sometimes met with on the waters of the Mermentau, Calcasiu, and
Sabine, is rare on those streams, and small in growth ; whilst, in the
woods of Teche, Bayou Boeuf, and other water-courses flowing into
Atehafalaya, the black-walnut tree is abundant and large.

ATTACAPAS PRAIRIE occupies the space between the woods of
Vermilion and Teche ;*it is about forty miles in length, but of very
unequal width ; lying in the form of a triangle, the base of which
rests upon the Teche river, with the perpendicular running nearly
west from New Iberia. Many ranges of woods chequer this prairie;
the most remarkable of which, are Point Perdue. Carlines Cote, the
hills of Petite Anse, and Grand Cote, the woods upon Bayou Tor-
tue, and Isle Cypriere, (Cypress island.) This prairie, commencing
in a point at the junction of Teche and Fusilier, gradually widens in
advancing southward ; is again contracted by the woods of Bayou
Tortue to less than two miles ; expands below New Iberia to the
southwest and northwest. The 30° N. lat. passes this prairie two
miles south of New Iberia ; along which the prairie is twenty-five
miles wide. The place included within the Fausse point bend iq
Teche, is an embranchment of the Attacapas prairie. The distance
over the prairie N VV from New Iberia to the Vrermilion, is about
eighteen, and from New Iberia southwest to the extremity of the prairie,
following the Teche, upwards of thirty miles.

All the lands of the Attacapas Prairie sufficiently elevated, are ex-
tremely fertile ; all the vegetable products known in Louisiana, can
be produced upon the various parts of this fine prairie ; and it is pro*
babie that its soil would be congenial to many plants not yet intro-
duced into the country ; the olive in particular.

By far the most extensive and wealthy settlement yet made in
Louisiana west of the Atehafalaya, is upon the right bank of the Te»

* It is very difficult to determine, which is most absurd, the vulgar or the
botanical name of this truly useful and elegant tree. When first introduced into
Europe, it received the name of tulipifera. Linnaeus changed it to lirioden-
dron ; for what reason, it would have been difficult for him to explain. Mr.
Miller, in his Gardener's Dictionary, restores the name tulipifera ; and Michauxs
in order to give each fair play, uses both. Every writer who follows, must, to
be understood, use these terms, however much he may despise this really
deceptive abuse of words. To neither the lily or tulip has the flower of this
tree even a fair resemblance, much less any botanical affinity What is singu-
lar, is, that all this jumble of corrupt Greek and Latin, is used to designate a
tree, only one species of which is known to exist, and which is peculiarly re^
mackable for possessing distinctive characters, that would seem to have defied*
all the system-mongers in the world to confound with any other object in na-
ture. Its name is just about as appropriate as ursus leonis would be if applied
to the horse.

68 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

che. There is a compact line of settlement extending the entire
length of Attacapas, from Berwick's bay to the mouth ol Fusilier, a
distance, following the sinuosities of the stream, of one hundred and
forty miles. There is, at this time, upwards of ten thousand per-
sons in Attacapas, one half of whom reside on the right bank of
Teche, including the two towns of St. Martinsville and New Iberia.
The soil and surface between the Vermilion and Teche prespnt
many very striking contrasts. The most remarkable objects are the
hills of Cote Blanche, Grand Cote, Petite Anse, and Cote Carline,
They are all of similar construction ; covered w;th timber of species
different from that found on the adjacent marshes, and rising to up-
wards of one hundred feet elevation out of the flat and inundated prai-
rie. Upon the Petite Anse the author enumerated upwards of forty
different species of trees and shrubs, amongst the most remarkable
of which were live oak, walnut, white and black hickory, and sweet
gum. This hill is naturally environed by an impassable marsh, out
of which a sluggish bayou meanders to the sea. The inhabitants of
Attacapas near New Iberia, cut a canal into this bayou from the solid
prairie ; and on the side next the island threw up a causeway from
the bayou to the high land, and by this means opened a communica-
tion with the Petite Anse. Several persons are settled upon this
island. The land is excellent, and consists of about three thousand
acres of high productive soil.

It is one of the most curious phenomena that the country affords,
to see these elevations rising out of the deep morass, and exhibiting
features in common with the woods of the higher Teche. The dog-
wood, (corpus florida,) iron wood, (carpinus ostrya,) and hornbeam,
{carpinus americana,) are all rare upon the lower Teche, but abound
upon the Petite Anse. The entire aspect of the interior part of this
island, resembles the wood land ofOpelousas upon the Teche, except
fhe presence of live oak, which is wanting in the latter, but is plen-
tiful in the former.

All the other islands on this coast of a similar nature, exhibit the
same general features ; such as Carlines C6te, Grand Cote, Cote
Blanche, and Belle Isle. These islands are considered the most
healthy parts of the country in which they are situated. This will ad-
mit perhaps of some doubt : they are pleasant places of residence,
however, the musqueto excepted.

Upon the Petite Anse, a salt spring was discovered a kw years
past, and brought into active operation by the owner of the land.
From its proximity, this spring has been considered as merely a drain
of the sea; but on inspection, it has all the commoH features of the
salt springs of Louisiana found north of Red river. The water is near-
ly as much saturated with the mineral as sea water, and yields excel-
lent salt. The adjacent settlements of Attacapas and even Opelousas,
have been, in some measure, supplied from this spring with salt, for
six or seven years past.

From the dry and porous nature of their soil and their position,
there is uo doubt but those islands would produce the most luxuriant
vineyards. Though environed with morass towards the interior, yet
they are all accessible to the gulf by navigable bayous.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 6S

PRAIRIE GRAND CHEVREU1L stretches along the east bank of
Teche, from eight miles southeast of Opelousas church, to about
seven southeast of New Iberia, and is fifty-two miles long with a me-
dium width of two. All the border of this prairie near the Teche is
high and fertile soil ; the surface declines in receding towards the
opposite woods, but even there, much of the land U sufficiently high
for culture. Indeed all the land in Prairie Grand Chevreuil, with
but little exception, is capable of being cultivated. The settlements
that line the woods on both sides of the prairie are numerous, — and we
meet with many extensive farms. Cotton and maize are the general
objects of culture ; and are both produced in large quantities and of
excellent quality. The local position of this prairie gives many ad-
vantages to its inhabitants ; — their proximity to an inexhaustible
source of all kinds of timber that the exigencies of their farms can
demand, and the convenience of navigation, confer a value on their
lands, that raise them above those of other more remote but equally
fertile tracts Besides the entranc* by the mouth of Teche, there are
as many as five outlets from Praifie Grand Chevreuil to Atchafalaya
river; the most remarkable of which are those of Fausse point, Gue-
dry's, and Durald's, all of which have been noticed.

PRAIRIE LAURENT ; enclosed between the Teche, Bayou Bour-
bee, and Bayou Fusilier, lies Prairie Laurent, about eleven miles
long and three wide. All the land of this prairie, sufficiently elevated
for culture, is excellent soil. There are some very fine farms in this
prairie. Cotton and maize are the common objects of cultivation.

Above Prairie Laurent and Prairie Grand Chevreuil, ranging along
the Teche, are the small prairies. Petite Bois and Romaine ; upon
the Courtableau, are the prairies Bare", Alabama, Wickoff's, Carron's,
Le Melle's, and one or two more. None of these, except YVickoffs,
exceeds two miles in length, most of them about one ; but all are ex-
tremely fertile. Wickoff's prairie is the termination to the northeast
of Opelousas of these natural meadows. Beyond this latter prairie,
which is four miles long and one and a half wide, commences a heavy-
forest, which continues to the Atchafalaya; many parts of which are
also covered with an almost impenetrable brake of cane.

It may be expressed in few words, that the high arable plains of
Attacapas and Opelousas are bounded south by an impassable morass,
to the west by continuous prairies, to the northwest by open dry pine
woods, and to the northeast by an annually inundated expanse inter-
sected by bayous, chequered by lakes, or covered with an almost
impervious forest, with cane and palmetto brakes.

Between the settlements of Opelousas and those of Avoyelles, about
fifteen miles in a direct line from each, occur the hill and prairie of
Baynu Rouge. This place is a real curiosity. At a considerable
distance from Opelousas, the timber, soil, and surface have a great
resemblance to the wood land? in many places within four or five
miles of the church of the tatter ; whilst an annually inundated swamp,
totally different from either, intervenes.

Bayou Rouge hill rises abruptly from low lands, covered with cy-
press, swamp, white oak, and other trees, indicative of and bearing
marks of deep overflow. Tne surface f»f the hill is perhaps forty feet

70 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

above the level of the circumjacent swamp, rises to its height at once ;
of course the crown is a table land. It is about three miles in diame-
ter, being nearly round, and about two-thirds of the surface prairie.
The inhabitants are included in the parish ot Avoyelles.

From the northeast extension of Bayou Rouge hill, issues a spring
of the most limpid water. It would be very difficult to determine
whether the spring or the ground from which it flows is the most of a
phenomenon. Upon the eminence above the spring, the traveller
may be seated at the root of a black-oak, surrounded by dogwood,
mulberry, and other trees scarcely ever found, even on the borders
of lands liable to be overflowed by the Mississippi, and be within
one hundred yards of land, upon which water rests four or five feet
deep every spring. It is one of the many instances that Louisiana
affords, where the extremes of natural productions touch without ming-
ling. The trees ami shrubs of this humbly elevated hill, are as dis-
tinct from those of the swamp with which it is every where environ-
ed, as if the two places were distances the most remote from each
other.

The poor remains of the Tonica nation of Indians reside upon this
hill. The history of this tribe is short and melancholy. When the
French first came to Louisiana in the beginning of the last century,
the Tonicas or Tunicas, resided on the bank of the Mississippi be-
low Red river, at the mouth of the bayou that yet bears their name.
The Tonicas were always in peace and amity with the French.

In 1718, the French formed an establishment at Natchez, and the
persons who formed it were, in 1729, massacred by the Natchez tribe
of Indians, who were themselves obliged to abandon their homes, and
fly before the French and their allies, amongst whom were the To-
nicas. The Natchez took refuge in the then remote, and to the French
unknown, banks of the Tensaw river, where they remained concealed
two years. True to the unquenchable nature of Indian revenge, the
Natchez sallied from their hiding place, descended the rivers to To-
nica village, surprised and massacred the greatest part of the tribe;
but by this incursion were themselves discovered. The governor of
Louisiana marched against them, and finally broke up the nation.
Some were killed, others made captive, and a small party escaped
and joined the Cadoes.

The Tonicas some time after removed to their present residence,
where the remainder, forty or fifty persons, survive to perpetuate the
name. They have adopted the modes of culture, and, in some mea-
sure, the manners and customs of the French. One or two white fa-
milies reside amongst them ; and it would puzzle Montesquieu himself,
to determine which of the parties have been most influenced by the
other. Each cultivates cotton and maize. Their cotton is carried in
canoes to Point Couple by the Atchafalaya and Mississippi.

The timber on the hill is black-oak, white-oak, red-oak, linden,
red-elm, sweet gum, poplar (liriodendron,) dogwood, wild cherry,
and ash.

It would be difficult to conceive of a more remote and secluded
spot. Surrounded for many months with a sea of water, and out of

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 71

(he course of any thoroughfare, its inhabitants are almost as detached
from the world as if they were in an island of the Pacific ocean.

From the neighbourhood of this hill flows a stream called Bayou
Rouge, that enters the Atchafalaya.

Farther south another creek, called Bayou Petite Prairie, flows
nearly parallel to Bayou Rouge, and also fails into Atchafalaya. Ba-
you Rouge enters Atchafalaya about one mile below the head of the
great raft in the latter, and Bayou Petite Prairie about ten miles
lower down.

There are considerable bodies of excellent land upon each of those
two bayous, particularly the latter; but the impediment to naviga-
tion created by the raft in Atchafalaya will, it is supposed, prevent
their improvement for many years.

The region from Opelousas to Bayou Rouge inclusive, might with
much propriety be denominated a country of large timber. It is cer-
tainly one of the heaviest forests in the world ; and will, at some fu-
ture time, become of great importance. Amongst other trees whose
timber is valuable, there is an immense quantity of very fine white-
oak and cypress. The greater part remains untouched, particularly
the oak.

Having completed this rapid sketch of the natural features of Ope-
lousas and Attacapas, we may now pass on to their artificial improve-
ments.

Political divisions, — settlements, — towns, — productions. — Attacapas
was first discovered and settled by the French abuut the middle of the
last century. When first established, the whole country bore the name of
Attacapas, from a tribe of Indians resident in the country. Another tribe,
named Opelousas, resided near the head of Teche, from whom that
country was named. Some years after the first settlement, when die
inhabitants increased, Opelousas was divided from Attacapas and made
a separate commandary : in which state the two places rem; ined du-
ring the existence of the French and Spanish governments in Louisiana,
and for some years after the United States exercised political juris-
diction in the country. The line of demarkation between the two
posts from the time of their first separation, began at the mouth of the
Mermentau river, ran thence up that stream to the mouth of Bayou
Queue Tortue ; thence up that stream to its source ; then by an ima-
ginary line to the head of Bayou Carrion Crow ; thence down that
stream to its mouth ; thence up to the Vermilion to the efflux of Ba-
you Fusilier ; thence down that stream to its junction with Teche
river; thence by an imaginary line east to Atchafalaya river. This
limit will no doubt remain permanent : the most part of the distance
is marked out by water-courses, and the remainder is known by ob-
vious lines of connexion.

Viewed as natural positions, there is no apparent distinction be-
tween Opelousas and Attacapas. From the mouth of Atchafalaya
river to the pine prairie in the N. W. part of Opelousas, the interme-
diate country presents one uniform geological structure, though the
locai subdivisions vary in regard to climate, soil, and vegetable pro-
ductions. The minor parts of each of the great portions are more
distinct than are the two great divisions themselves from each other.

72 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

It is from a conviction of this natural assimilation, that 4hitf fine region
has been in this work treated of as one connected surface.

Leaving Renthrop's ferry, at the mouth of Teche, and advancing
to the Pine prairie, while ignorant of the political territorial divisions,
the traveller would consider himself in one and the same country ; he
could not perceive any of those marks, " that point out a division in
the families of organized existence."

A more rapid and astonishing transition is not conceivable, than
between the deep, dark, and silent gloom of the inundated lands of
Atchafalaya, and the open, light, and cheerful expansion of the wide
spread prairies of Opelousas and Attacapas. This pleasing and really
delightful change is amongst the certain items of reward, that every
individual will receive, who passes at any season of the year irom
New Orleans to either Opelousas or Attacapas. After being many
days confined in the rivers, exposed to heat, musquetoes, and many
severe privations, to pass in a few minutes from this scene of silence
and suffering, to an ocean of light, to the view of expanses where the
eye finds no limit but the distant horizon, is a delight of which no an-
ticipation can give an adequate idea. To be enjoyed, it must be felt.
It is one of the incidents in human life where the pursuit is pain, and
the possession pleasure ; where the soft and glowing landscape repays,
and cheats not the weary voyager. In an eventful life, the author
recalls this amongst the few, the very few instances where recollection
of the past does not embitter the present.

The various roads and river routes being delineated, the reader is
now to be informed of the means of entering the country. If hi? pro-
gress is by the mouth of Teche into Attacapas, the first object that will
claim his attention after landing at Renthrop's ferry, will be the rich
banks of Teche, lined with live oak, black oak, sweet gum, and lau-
rel magnolia ; the arable margin narrow., and exiending dowa the
Atchafalaya five or six miles below the mouth of Teche. Ascending
the latter river to Sorrel's, no great change in the physiognomy or pro-
duction of the country will be found ; — prairies extending along the
river, but very confined in their width, often interrupted by wood-
land reaching to the margin of the stream.

At Sorrel's the prairie at <>nce expands, and introduces the traveller
to the almost interminable savannas that reach from that place to
Rio Grand del Norte. Above Sorrel's as far as New Iberia, the Te-
che retains its distinctive character, though the adjacent country an-
nounces the vicinity of other regions. The bend of Fausse point, in
its wide sweep, returns again almost to the place of outset, and at
Mad. St. Maur's, the sugar cane still endures the vicissitudes of the
climate. Here the Teche, retaining the fertility of its shores, turns
to the northward.

At the lower extremity of Fausse point bend, stands New Iberia,
on the west or right bank of Teche. If elegance of site, or beauty
of prospect, could of themselves confer prosperity, no town couid
have a higher claim than New Iberia. It stands at the head of
schooner navigation, in one of the most fertile and best cultivated
parts of Attacapas. This village stands upon the extremity of a
merely perceptible eminence, which leaving ihe banks of Teche, pur-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. £9

&lefe a northwest direction, and forms the settlement of tote Gele^
between New Iberia and the Vermilion river. Though but little
elevated above the banks of Teche, the soil of this ridge is essential-
ly different. Crossing, or rather only interrupted by Vermilion, this
ridge forms the Penauit settlement, west of the latter stream, and
turning north, extends through Opeiousas, and gradually gaining ele-
vation, becomes, near Red river, hills of considerable height. Schis-
tose sand-stone becomes visible at the base of these hills on the head
water> of Bayou's Bceul and Crocodile. There h-s been no instance
of stone in any considerable quantity being found either on the sur-
face or by digging in any part of Attacapas, or the lower parts of
Opeiousas.

New Iberia, though situated upon ground twenty feet above the
highest floods that can now take place, rests evidently upon alluvial
soil. The site of this town is the point of contact between two bodies
of land, which though both have drawn their materials from one
source, have been deposited at long and distant intervals of time.

The hills are in many respects better adapted to agriculture than
the banks of Teche. The former are more rolling than the latter, of
Course less liable to injury from excessive rains Between New
Iberia and Opeiousas church, following the ridge of hills, are some of
the best populated, best cultivated, and certainly most pleasant parte
of the country. Cote Ge\le\ Penauit, Grand Coteaux, and the neigh-
bourhood of Opeiousas church are examples.

It would be entirely impossible to fix any general price to lands in
the range of these settlements ; so much depends upon situation and
other contingencies, that the extremes would be from four or five to
forty or fifty dollars per acre. In general the lands here are cheaper
than on the Teche ; often more so than the real difference in the re>
spective advantages of the two places.

Descending the Vermilion below Cote G&4, the lands, particularly
on the east bank, preserve the aspect of that settlement. The Ver-
milion differs totally from the Teche. The former flows through low
inundated bottoms, the high land seldom reaching the margin of the
stream ; the Teche contrary wise, having the highest part of its adja-
cent lands on the immediate bank. Extensive marshes, in the true
meaning of the term, are found on Vermilion, and but rarely occur
near the Teche, and never on its banks. In reality the Vermilion
represents the rivers which flow into the Mexican gulf west of Atcha-
iaiaya ; the Teche represents the Mississippi and other streams whose
banks are formed from recent alluvion. The lands upon Vermilion
are, however, extremely fertile, and though the physiognomy of the
Stream bears a strong family resemblance to the Mermentau, Calca-
siu, and Sabine, yet in point of production the soil it waters falls but
little below that of the Teche.

St. Martinsville, the present seat of justice for the parish of St.
Martins, is the largest town, Natchitoches excepted, in Louisiana
west oi the Atbhafalaya river. It stands upon the west bank of Te-
che at N. lat. 30° 10', nine miles by land, and thirty-two by water
above New Iberia. The ground upon which St. Martinsville is built,
>s too flat, and the streets are excessively muddy in wet weather.
10

74 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

It is well situated for commercial purposes in the centre of a well
cultivated and productive country. The church of Atiacapas being
placed here, was the cause of the establishment of the town. Under
the Spanish government, the churches in the various posts were the
places where public business was transacted. This custom has been
in most instances perpetuated by the administrators of the American
government, In point of situation and commercial facility, New
Iberia is certainly superior to St Martinsville, but notwithstanding all its
advantages, the latter has, and probably will continue to prevail over
the former.

The division line between two parishes being so near, has also con-
tributed to arrest the progress of New Iheria by taking away the
hope of its ever becoming the seat of public business It is, however,
a port of entry, and enjoys the privileges attached to such establish-
ments.

There is no part of the United States, nor even of Louisiana, where
towns are ot less consequence than in Attacapas and Opelousas. With
the ideas formed in Europe or in the northern and middle states of the
United States, men can hardly conceive of a country being in a rapid
state of improvement without the accumulation of towns. It has been
supposed that in many European countries, one person in five, and in
ad the states of the United States north and east of Philadelphia, that
more than one tenth part of the entire population lived in cities,
towns, or villages. And this estimate is made exclusive of the large
commercial marts. Whether the slavery of the negroes produces the
effect or not, it is a fact, that in all the slave states, towns are com-
paratively few and small. In a country whose inhabitants are so ac-
tively commercial as those of the United States, every section must
have a depot. Therefore, a few large cities will exist in every part,
but if we may form anticipations of the future from the past, no great
numbtr of large cities will ever rise in the state of Louisiana, or the
adjacent countries. InOpeiousas and Attacapas. so many persons do
now, and will probably continue to trade to New Orleans direct,
without employing store keepers, that one of the chief sources of the
increase of towns it- considerably less in these places than in the
northern and middle states.

Every traveller who attentively reviews the objects before him,
will be struck with the great disparity between the towns and farms
of all the slave states; but in none so much as in Louisiana, New
Orleans excepted Many have attributed this effect to the principles
of the Spanish government ; but the conclusion is unfounded. Mexico
and Peru have as many, it not more large cities, in proportion to the
population of those places, than the United States have. After stating
the tact, we may leave the theoretical deductions of the cause to those
who have more talent and leisure, and continue our subject.

Above St. Martinsville there are no more towns in Attacapas. The
country is thickly settled upon both banks ot Teche, upon the Ver-
milion, and the intermediate streams. Cotton is the great staple and
object of cultivation. The soil is every where well adapted to the
growth of that vegetable. The production, in proportion to the ef-
fective hands employed, is, perhaps, as great as in any part of the

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 7a

tjlate. The advantage of cultivating prairie land is here completely
enjoyed. Though the culture of the soil has advanced within a few
years past with great rapidity, yet the surface, when compared with
the population, is still so great as to leave an almost unlimited choice
of ground for tillage. \ custom prevails here that could be practised
only in such countries : that of changing the enclosures every three
or four years. As land becomes of more value by increase of people,
this usage will of course belaid aside ; it is now of very great service
to the planters, by releasing them trom one of their greatest enemies,
the crab grass.

Tl e value of land is generally the first question made by a travel-
ler, and it is one to which no definite answer can be made, respect-
ing ny section of the United States. A general comparison is always
sat' , and made with facility, between two places which produce re-
spectively staples differing in a considerable degree in value. Lands
W > re sugar can be made, will bear a higher e-timation than those
where only cotton can be produced. Therefore, every thing else
equal, the landed property of the inhabitants 01 Attarapas below St.
Martinsville, is of more value than that claimed to the north of that
town.

How far north the sugar cane can be cultivated, is an inquiry of
very deep interest, and it is one of the many subjects where the hu-
man mind is extremely liable to deception. From the great difference
in value, every landholder grasps with avidity at a prospect of chang-
ing his cotton into sugar lands.

Nothing but experience can decide this question, and without any
particular cause of suspicion against individuals, emigrants ought to be
very cautious of implicitly believing in flattering pictures, drawn by
persons interested in deceiving others, and from their avidity very
liable to be deceived themselves.

Cotton being a vegetable capable of attaining the developement of
its growth on almost all lands, and in all climates of the United States
below the thirty-fifth degree of north latitude, every emigrant is safe
in forming calculations upon its culture, in the states of Louisiana,
Mississippi, and the territory of Alabama. In Darby's Louisiana the
ground upon which sugar can be made is laid down. The data are
drawn from what has already been effected, and from vegetable
analogy. In this work it has been shown that where snow is known
to fall frequently, the possible beneficial culture of the sugar cane is
doubtful. It has been also established, that heavy snows are frequent
at the church of Opelousas. It may be also remarked, that the live
oak tree ceases also where, or very near where, snow commences. In
some places the existence of the live oak is supposed to be influenced
by proximity to the sea. The correctness of the remark, doubtful in
all places, is demonstrably erroneous in Louisiana and Alabama,
where this tree grows at very different distances from the shore of the
gulf of Mexico.

We have been the more careful in calling the attention of the tra-
veller to the subject of vegetable associations, from a thorough con-
viction, that from this source may be drawn some of the most valua-
ble facts that can interest the student in statistical inquiry. It is a

% EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Wean of acquiring accurate knowledge of a country, that if judiciously
pursued, cannot deceive. It is a safeguard against deception that
outjht never lo be neglected. And what renders its precepts the more
valuable, they are written in a language that never needs an interpre-
ter; " he who runs may read.'1

Besides the vegetable staples ;n Opelousas and Attacapas, those
places have another source of revenue in which they are perhaps un-
rivalled,— the rearing of cattle There are many parts upon the
Menneniau, Calcasiu, and Sabine, where this pastoral commerce will
perhaps be perpetuated as- long as the present order of things continues
in the world- It would be difficult to conceive the possibility of any
country being more completely adapted to the rearing of cattle than
^re the prairies along the water? of the Opelousas. So much are men
prone to adopt what best suits their peculiar situation, when left free
to follow the bent of their own desires, that common custom in such
cases is the best test of propriety. From the first establishment of the
post, the production of cattle became the chief pursuit of the people of
Opelousas and Attacapas ; but as the settlements progressed, and
particularly since the establishment of the American government,
wherever the soil was productive, agricultural has superseded pastoral
labour, So much however of the lands to the westward of the water
courses communicating with the Teche, are naturally sterile, flat, and
ipcapable alike of present culture or future improvement, that the
region seems pointed out by nature as the meaduw lands to supply
with beef, butter, and cheese, the inhabitants of the productive banks
of the Mississippi and its intermediate streams.

The city of New Orleans and its vicinity are supplied with beef,
fallow, and butter, from these savannas. Many of the richer plan-
ters on the Teche, Vermilion, and other agricultural districts, have
gtock farms, or as they are termed in the country, " vacheries," estab-
lished upon the Mermentau, and Calcasiu. The cattle is guarded by
men employed for that purpose, who have, in most cases, as their re-
ward, a stipulated share of the increase. These stock herdshave also the
use of all the milk and butter they choose to make for their own use.
To families who remove into the country, and whose finances are not
very ample, no situation could be more eligible than having the use
of one of these vacheries. It is, however, a life of severe activity.
The lives of the men who guard the flocks of this country, may be said
to be spent on horseback. It is also a pursuit demanding considerable
skill in the peculiar management of its details. There is no applica-
tion of the hands of mere common working men, where so much pro-,
fit is drawn from the same labour. Three or tour active men, with
about double as many tolerable good horses, will manage a stock pro-
ducing annually from three to five hundred calves. The fifth is the
common reward of the keepers. This would yield from twenty-five
{o thirty calves to a single hand. Four years old beeves, the ordi-
nary age at which they are sold, will yield from fifteen to twenty
dollars per head. It will appear obvious from this statement, that,
though the emolument will accumulate slowly at first, its ultimate re-
suit is very considerable. In most instances, where the essay has been
fpade with due exertion and ordinary prudence, the reward was av&-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 7.7

pie. In that, as in too many other cases, particularly in the south-
em states, many persons seek the business as a situation of ease and
idleness; and succeed accordingly.

Most of those, however, who are employed on these pastoral farms,
are either slaves, or of men particularly known to the owners of
the cattle. They are generally a hardy, active, class of men ; and
certainly, are amongst the best horsemen m the world. The rapi-
dity and skill of their movements are justly subjects of an admira-
tion, which is often heightened by the docility and sagacity of their
horses.

The cattle, horse, and modes of managing, both came into Louis-
iana from the Spanish provinces in North America. The race of the
domestic cow, so greatly multiplied in Opelousas and Attacapas, is
high, clean limbed, and elegant in its appearance. The horses are
from the Andalusian, or Numidian race : they are, like their ances-
tors, small, compactly built, and inconceivably durable. Many of
them are active in a high degree : and though inferior in size, strength,
deetness, or beauty, to the English race of horses now general in the
United States, they are, nevertheless, greatly superior in every essen-
tial quality necessary for the severe service tbey are made to per-
form.

The cow yields much less milk, and of inferior quality, in all the
southern parts of the United States, than in those more northern. This
effect, generally acknowledged, has been ascribed to the greater
richness of the pastures of the latter. How far this induction is cor-
rect, we are unable to determine, but feel inclined to consider this
like every other operation of the laws of nature, who makes nothing
in vain. Milk, though appropriated by man to his use, was formed
to feed the young of the animal by which it is produced. Where
abundant and succulent herbage every where abound, there is less
occasion for the milk: consequently, upon the plains of Louisiana
and Texas, the pendant udder, and high boned, lank, and hollow ap-
pearance of the northern cow, is never seen. The cow of Louisiana
and Texas has a vivacity and alertness that would almost bespeak
them specifically different from the dull, phlegmatic animal of the same
genus in more nothern climates.

The flesh of the cattle killed upon the prairie is often excellent.
The feeding or salting of their stock is entirely neglected by most
of the owners : the benefits arising from greater attention have, how-
ever, exhibited themselves wherever an experiment has been made.
Though abounding to overflow in sumrapr and autumn, tbe paston.ge
is generally destroyed by frost in winter, to nearly the coast of the
gult of Mexico. Nothing can demonstrate more strongly the low
temperature of the climate of Opelousas, Attacapas, and ail the coun-
try to the westward of those places on the gulf of Mexico, than the an-
nually destruction of the grass by frost.

There are two very distinct species of the arundo, or large reed
cane, growing in southern Louisiana ; the arundo gigantea, and the
arundo aquatica. The former is the most hardy of all tbe grasses,
and resists the action of frost in regions more rigorous than any part
of the states of Louisiana, Mississippi, or the territory of Alabama

78 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

and province of Texas. The arundo aquatica is unknown in the
higher part* of the country : it is found to form large brakes upon the
banks of the Mississippi below Fort St. Philip, and upon the shores of all
the other streams to the westward whose banks are low. The arundo
aquatica forms a beautiful border never extending more than forty or
fifty feet from the water edge. This gram^n is extremely susceptible
of decomposition by frost. When the author was at the mouth of Sa-
bine in the winter of 1812-13, he arrived at the head oi the lake near
the 30° N. lat. on the 20th of December, and found the arundo aqua-
tica still untouched by frost: but in the nights of the 21st and 22d,
very severe frost destroyed the cane entirely : and in less than one
week afterwards, the stalks appeared dry and parched as if blighted
by fire : the ground was frozen, and the small ponds covered with
ice : the weather was, indeed, severe, beyond what could be expected
in that latitude.

The other lesser gramina are still more tender than the arundo
aquatica, and of course submit to a light frost, that would be resisted
fey the latter. The prairies below 30° N. lat. has often the dry
stubble-like aspect of fields from which the grain has been cut In
sucb cases the cattle and horses suffer: but when to the ruin of -their
food, is added snow and sleet, which is often the case as low as 30°
30' N. lat the situation of the poor exposed animals is really pitia-
ble. In the months of January 1800, 1807, and 1812, snow fell
at Opelousas of considerable depth and duration. The storm of 1807,
though it occasioned less snow, was much more destructive to the
cattle than that of 1812 ; the former was attended with a keen N. W.
wind, commenced with cold rain followed by sleet, and terminated
with snow : but the residue of the month and part of February, gave
very warm pleasant weather. On the night of the seventh of Febru-
ary, another severe frost set in, attended with clear calm weather.
The latter frost was so intense as to freeze the ponds, and other stag-
nant waters as low as the gulf of Mexico. The spring was rainy till
the middle of March, when the season changed to dry and warm.

A phenomenon ensued the storm in January, that staggers the cre-
dulity of many persons. No injurious effects upon the cattle were
perceptible for some time, but suddenly they were found to be dying
by thousands. The malady had all the appearance of a real pleurisy :
the cattle were not reduced much in flesh, but fell and died in a few
hours. Those which recovered, were weak until late in summer.
The swine seemed also affected in the same manner It was thought
by many persons, that one-fourth part of the stock of horned cattle in
the country perished. The horses and mules escaped. Some ot the
old inhabitants observed, that a similar fatality had occurred once be-
fore in their recollection, preceded also by severe frost.

If making of hay, and providing shelter for stock in stormy wea-
ther, were to become general objects of rural economy, there can
be very little doubt of an ample pecuniary recompense being the
consequence. Whilst the wide spread prairie gives such abundant
summer range, provision for winter will be neglected.

Whether sheep could be reared in Opelousas as profitable on ac-
count of their wool, has never been ascertained. Most of the plant-;

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. .»

ers have sortie sheep •, hut the quality of the wool is generally coarse :
the mutton is excellent. How far the wool could be improved by the
introduction of other breeds, remains open to experiment.

As far as pasturage and the climate are concerned, there is no rea-
son to doubt but sheep could be multiplied to any supposable ex-
tent. The dry pine tracts that seem to forbid attempts at agriculture,
might probably be beneficially employed as sheepfolds.

From the review we have given of the temperature of the climate,
and the operation of frost, the reader will be able to form a reasona-
ble estimate of the probability of success in the cultivation of the
vine and olive, in Opelousas and Attacapas. The essential difference
in the respective climates of the basin of the Mobile, the valley of
the Mississippi, and the extensive prairies of Louisiana and Texas,
has also been exhibited. It will be seen that the line of climate does
not correspond with the parallels of latitude. Though the 33° N. lat.*
has been correctly assumed as a general line of demarkation between
the climates of this continent, yet the regions near the delta of the
Mississippi show a deviation from this boundary. A line drawn from
the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa, to the mouth of the Sabine,
would very nearly follow the course of the intet mediate climates,
with the exception of that part intersecting the Mississippi. Within
fifteen or twenty miles from that great river an indentation exists,
carrying the cooler temperature of the more northern regions \'t or
15 minutes of latitude farther south.

When treating of the olive tree,| it will be shown how far any of
the countries previously reviewed will suit the growth of that tree.

It would swell the subject beyond its comparative share of atten-
tion, to give in detail all that could be repeated respecting Opelousas
and Attacapas. The following table exhibits the most important ve-
getable productions of this interesting country. A professed botanist
would find the eastern part of Opelousas, in relation to the objects of
his research, one of the most rich and productive regions on this globe,
particularly in forest trees. Of all the species of trees mentioned in
the following list, the Buckeye and Papaw excepted, the largest in-
dividuals ever seen by the author, were found between Prairie
Be'.levue and the hill of Bayou Rouge ; the most remarkable of
which are the quercus tinctoria, quercus macrocarpon, cupressus
disticha, liriodendron tulipifera, juglans nigra, juglans aquatica, and
laurus sassafras.

Acer rubrum, Red flowering maple,

Acer negundo, Box elder,

Andromeda racemos'a, Sorrel tree,

Annona triloba, Papaw,

Betula lenta, Black birch, on Mermentay,

Bignonia catalpa,j Gatalpa,

* See page 31. t See chap. iv.

J This Iree appears to be an indigenous tree in the eastern woods of Opekm-
£*, where it grows in almost all kinds of soil. The extreme durability -A its
wood and its rapid growth,, have eonrrihated to give it high estimation amongst

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Carpinus ostrya,
Carpinus Americana,
Castanea pumila,
Celt is crassi folia
Cerasus caroliniana,
Cer^us virginiana,
Cornus florida,
Cornus alba,
Cupressus disticha,
Diospiros virginiana,
Fagus sylvestris,
Fraxinus tomentosa,
Gleditsia triacanthos
Gleditsia monosperma,
Ilex opaca,
Juglans amara,
Juglans aquatica,
Juglans laciniosa,
Juglans myristacaBibrmis,
Juglans porcina,
Juglans nigra,
Juglans squamosa,
Laurus sassafras,
Laurus benzoin,
Laurus caroiniensis,
Liquiuambar styraciflua,
Lirioc'endron tulipitera,
Magnolia glauca,
Magnolia grandiflora,
Murus rubra,
Nysa aquatica,
Nysa sylvatica,
Fayie iutea,
Pinus rigida,
Populus angulata,
Platanus occidentalis,
Quercus alba,
Que reus aquatica,
Quercus falcata,
Que reus ferruginea,
Quercus lyrata,
Quercus macrocarpa,
Quercus obtusiloba,
Quercus pbellos,
Quercus rubra,
Quercus tinctoria,
Tilia pubescens,

Iron wood,

Hornbeam,

Chincapin,

Hackberry,

Lauri^r almond,

Wild cherry

Dogwood,

Swamp dogwood,

Cypress,

Persrimon,

Beech,

Common ash,

Honey locust,

Water honey locust,

Holly,

Bitter nut hickory,

Water hickory,*

Thick shell bark hickory*

Nutmeg hickory,

Pignut hickory,

Black walnut.

Shell bark hickory.

Sassafras,

Spice wood,

Red bay,

Sweet gum,

Poplar,

White bay,

Large laurel,

Mulberry,

Tupeloo,

Black gum,

Buckeye,

Pitch pine,

Cotton wood,

Sycamore,

White oak,

Water oak,

Spanish oak,

Black jrtck oak,

Swamp white oak,

Overcup oak,

Post oak,

Willow oak.

Red oak,

Black oak,

Downy linden,

the planters. The catalpa is now planted extensively in Opelousas, and is usefi
foi posts, bournes to the land, and other purposes demanding timber of long 'do-
tation.

* This tree bears, in Louisiana, the name ot bastard paccan..

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. §1

Ulmus Americana, Mucilaginous elm,

Ulmus rubra. Red elm,

Ulmus aquatica, Swamp elm*

To the above may be added an indefinite variety of vines and un»
derwood ; such as Spanish mulberry, prickly sumach, muscadine
grape vine, white wood,| pond wood,J white thorn, blackberry briar,
dew berry, several species of the smilax, and many others.

On the banks of the streams immense brakes of arundo gigantea,
(great cane,) and on the outer margin of the cane, the palmetto or la-
tania (chamaerops Louisiana,) fill the slope between the cane and the
dead overflow.

The cane, though found near, cannot exist upon land where its roots
are subject to long and repeated immersion. The palmetto can sup-
port inundation a longer time and deeper than the cane, but perishes
also where considerable bodies of water rest upon the ground where
it grows. However flat the land may be where either of these vege-
tables is found, their presence affords a natural proof of the possibility
of cultivating the land, and of the excellent quality of the soil. Con-
siderable spaces in Opelousas that are now considered of no value,
must, one day, and that at no very distant period, become some of tbe
finest parts of the country.

Province of Texas — though justly claimed by the United States'
government as part of Louisiana, yet as no attempt has been made to
carry that claim into effect, the local Spanish authorities have been
respected. A contestation subsisted between France and Spain re-
specting the demarkation between their respective limits during the
time that elapsed from the landing of La Salle at the mouth of the
Guadaioupe, in 16S3, until the ratification of the treaty of 1762, when
France ceded Louisiana to Spain.

In the Appendix to Darby's Louisiana, first edition, and the first
chapter to the second edition, may be seen the respective epocha at
which were made the various discoveries and settlements in Texas
and Louisiana. From these documents it will appear that the Spanish
officers first passed the Rio grande del Norte in 1714; almost thirty-
years after the expedition of La Salle.

It was almost at the same time, 1717, that the French arrived at
Natchitoches, and the Spaniards at the Adayes, nine miles distant
from each other, and which respective posts were maintained from
that time to the transfer of the government of Louisiana to the United
States. After the establishment of the Spanish government in 1769,
no change was made in the. posts. Natchitoches was continued a
commandary of Louisiana, and the Adayes of Texas. But the regu-
lations of convenience adopted or perpetuated by the Spanish govern-
ment cannot prejudice the just claim of the United States.

As a country, Texas is very far from being equal in fertility to the
regions included in the valleys of the Red and Mississippi rivers.

* This tree is named by the French olivier, or olive, from the form of its fruit,
which bears a great resemblance to that of the real olive.

t This species of the elm grows to a very large tree, and is probably a non-
descript.

J These two dwarf trees are non-descripts, and always growing on low land.
11

tH EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

The climate is remarkably temperate for the latitude, A great part
consists of open plains exposed to the winds of the north, and the ai-
rnesphere is cooled considerably lower than the places on the same
parallel more to the eastward. Though uninviting in an agricultural
point of view, the position of Texas reuders it an object of serious in-
terest to the people of the United States. Few are prepared for the
moment when either the west or east border of this country must be-
come a vast frontier between two powerful and independent nations.
When urging the value of Texas to the United States, it is frequently
observed that the territory of the United Stales is already sufficiently
extensive. If the observation was founded upon political wisdom, it
would apply much more forcibly to Spain, whose dominions are more
extensive and less peopled than those of the United States; but in
reality it is a sophism when applied to any country. It is easier to
conceive of a nation being too condensed than over-extended ; of
having too little rather than too much land. Extent of territory can-
not be any great inconvenience to a people, whose relative position is
similar to that of the United States.

Independent, however, ©fall other considerations, the claim of the
United States to Texas ought to be insisted upon from political rea-
sons. Some of the best harbours in the gulf of Mexico are to be
found between the Sabine and the Riogrande del Norte. Entirely in-
dependent of all the local arrangements of either government, the
people of the United States and Mexico are increasing in a very rapid
manner. Though the distance that separates these two great masses
of men from each other is yet considerable, it is every moment be-
coming less so. If a retrospect be taken of the progress of human so-
ciety in North America during the last century, a pretty good idea
may be formed of its advance in the present.

In the year 1717, exactly one century past, New Orleans was
founded. At that epoch there was not perhaps 500 white inhabitants
in the valley of the Mississippi. There are now near two millions.
It is in reality in the last forty years that the astonishing revolution
has taken place, by which such an immense mass of intelligence has
supplanted savage barbarism.

If under so many disadvantages, and so small a fund, the people of
this continent have increased so much, what will be their advance
upon the basis of their present population ? We must not suppose
that the people of Mexico and the internal provinces are stationary.
The fact is far otherwise. From the best documents, it appears that
the people of the Spanish North American possessions exceed nine
millions, upwards of seven millions of whom are in Mexico and the
internal provinces. The people of the United States now amount to
about nine million. For a period of seventy years past, the people
who now compose the United States, have more than doubled in every
twenty-five years. Should a similar increment accrue in the same
ratio during another century, then will the people of the United
States, in 1917, amount to eighty millions ; and allowing the people of
the Spanish colonies, in North America, to double in thirty-five years,
and supposing them now nine millions, their population, in 1917, will
he upwards ef fifty millions. Taken together, the continent will then

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 83

be peopled with one hundred and thirty millions, exclusive of the
Canadas and other British settlements, which will contain perhaps ten
•r fifteen millions.

This increase, though apparently so enormous, is really less in
proportion than what has actually taken place since 1717, under cir-
cumstances at least as unfavourable as any that can reasonably be ex-
pected in the next equal period of time.

It will be shown, in the sequel to this work, that the arable surface
of North America, exclusive of mountains, rivers, lakes, froze* tracts,
and other uninhabitable places, exceeds seven millions of square miles ;
consequently, when inhabited by one hundred and fifty millions of
people, it will give only twenty to each square mile. Like other
nations, the mass will be unequally dispersed in America.

Viewing a map of North America, and the local situation of its pre-
sent inhabitants, every person must be struck with the propriety of
making the Rio grande del Norte the limit between the United States
and the Spanish provinces. This river is in itself of very little con-
sequence, and the land it waters sterile ; it is a long continuous
stream with few branches, and in proportion to its length, having but
little water. A dense population cannot exist upon its banks,
therefore many of the causes that lead to national contests will be re-
moved. If there were no title upon which the United States could
found their claim to Texas, still sound policy ought to induce Spain to
establish a boundary traced by the hand of nature ; a boundary over
which either nation would have few inducements to pass. That.
the passions of men will engender wars on this continent, as the same
cause has produced similar effects every where else, we cannot doubt ;
but the origin of political disputes may be in great part removed in
the case before us.

Texas cannot become an immediate object of attention to emi-
grants; its territory is not yet politically under the authority of the
United States, and countries superior in soil, and agricultural and
commercial facilities, are open to settlement. A detail of the rela-
tive positions and natural productions of a region that must remain
for ever the frontier of the Anglo American population of this conti-
nent, cannot however be uninteresting.

Texas is bounded west and southwest by the Rio grande del
Norte ; southeast by the gulf of Mexico ; east by the state of Louisia-
na ; and northeast and north by Red river. Its greatest length is,
from the mouth of the Rio grande del Norte to the sources of Red
river, about eight hundred miles ; its greatest breadth from the N. W.
angle of the state of Louisiana, in a S. W. direction to the Rio grande
del Norte, five hundred miles. Estimated by the Rhombs on Melish's
map, Texas extends over two hundred and forty thousand square
miles ; or as extensive as New-York, New-Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ma-
ryland, Virginia, Ohio, and Kentucky.

The climate must vary considerably ; the mouth of Rio grande del
Norte is in 25° 55' N. lat. ; the head of Red river is in 37° N. lat
According to the information derived from General Pike, on the high
table land upon the head waters of the Red and Arkarsan rivers, the
cold is excessive. This respectable testimony needs no farther au«

84 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

fhority to give it credence ; but if it did need corroborative prooi',
that proof is afforded by the low temperature experienced on the
shores of (be Mexican gulf.

Though taken as a whole, Texas cannot be considered a fertile
country, yet on so vast an extent there are many very fine tracts.
Red river will no doubt admit of settlement along its whole length.
The same may be said of several of the other streams ; and though
this population cannot be very compact, yet the individuals that com-
pose it may be free and happy. The air of this region is, according
to every account yet made public, pure, serene, and in the highest
degree healthful.

The pursuits of the people of the interior of the country will be,
it is most probable, lor ever pastoral. The soil, the want of wood in
many places, and remoteness from large commercial ports, will all
combine to perpetuate the present order of things in that extensive,
and in man)' respects delightful country.

In point of geological structure, Texas is remarkably regular.
Resting upon the Rio grande del Norte as a base, the country lies in
the form of an immense triangle, all the rivers conforming to each
other in an astonishing degree. Red river, and the Rio Grande on the
two opposite sides, have great resemblance to each other in their
courses and particular bends. The intermediate streams, for some
distance from their sources, flow southeast; when gradually turning
south they pursue that course to the gulf of Mexico. In this manner
flows the Nueces, Gaudaloupe, Colorado, Brassos a Dios, Trinity,
Sabine, and Calcasiu. The sources of the Merraentau being too far
south to admit its conformity to the foregoing streams, its course is
south nearly. The Calcasiu and Mermentau are neither in Texas ;
their names are mentioned here to afford examples of the regular for-
mation of the country bordering on the north shore of the gulf of
Mexico.

We will close this chapter with a review of the N. W. section of
the state of Louisiana. It is within five or six years past that much
of this country was discovered. This may seem almost incredible,
but it is really a fact, that, in 1 811, considerable streams that flow into
Red and Ouachitta rivers, were unknown, except to a few hunters.
If this had been the case with rivers remote from the Mississippi, the
chasm in geography would not have excited surprise ; but it is certain-
ly astonishing that such water courses should be unexplored, as the
Derbane, Saline of Ouachitta, Saline of Red river, Oacheet, Bodcau,
Black Lake river, and the Dngdomini, all in the neighbourhood of
long established posts. A glance at Lafon's map of Louisiana, pub-
lished in 1805, will enable any person acquainted with the real fea-
tures of the country, to perceive how utterly the country upon Red
and Ouachitta rivers were unknown at the epoch of the publication of
the foregoing map.

The government of the United States commenced surveys in Louis*
iana west of the Mississippi and Atchafalaya rivers in 1805,* dul
did not extend the operations of surveying to the north side of Red

v See page T.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 85

river until 1813. The author of this treatise assisted in performing
surveys op each siJe of Red river under the authority of the United
States ; and in addition, made extensive surveys, on his own account,
of many places not embraced by the work done by order of the gene-
ral government, and traversed repeatedly the hitherto most imperfect-
ly known parts. These circumstances are mentioned here in order
to apprize the reader of the means taken to procure correct informa-
tion of this valuable country.

The N VV. section of the state of Louisiana, is bounded east by
the Mississippi ; north by the northernmost part of the 33° N. lat.
north ; by a meridian line due south from the 32° to 33° N. lat.
west; by the Sabine river southwest; and by the 31° N. lat. or
Opelousas, south. This section extends over 21,700 square miles,
including the parishes of Natchitoches, Ouachilta, Ocatahoola, Con-
cordia. Rapide, and Avoyelles.

Natural features — Rivers — Lakes — and Mineral Productions. The
principal rivers of the N. W. section of the state of Louisiana, are,
Sabine, Red river, Ouachitta, and Mississippi.

The Sabine is a small and unimportant stream where intersected
by the 32° N. lat. ; this place is evidently within no very great dis-
tance from its source. When examined by the author in November,
1812, the river was excessively swollen by rain, and yet appeared
small and narrow. As was the case in almost every other instance,
no precise information could be obtained respecting this river except
by actual observation. The author commenced a traverse at the
town of Natchitoches on Red river, and measured the several courses
between the latter and Sabine. From a wish to include the then
vaguely known settlement of Bayou Pierre, the traverse was extended
northwest alon«: the overflown lands of Red river, as high as 32° 10'
21" N. lat , and then curved to the Sabine. By this means the
creeks, lakes, and settlements, N. W. of Natchitoches were delinea-
ted upon Darby's large map of Louisiana.

After departing from Natchitoches towards Sabine, the country is
found to be hilly. The prevailing timber, pine, black oak, sweet
gum, and various species of hickory. This description of country
continues ten or twelve miles, where, in following the road to Na-
cogdoches, pine becomes more abundant, and other timber less in
quantity. After passing the western extremity of Spanish lake, the
foregoing traverse was continued nearly N. VV. as has been observed,
along the margin of the overflown lands of Red river. In this range
the pine ceases almost entirely, and is followed by oak and hickory
woods. The country is extremely broken, and often stony. The
hills are not very elevated, bui steep. The bottoms are often fertile,
though not very extensive.

A number of streams of very limpid water flow from the hills into the
lakes of Red river ; and, amongst others, is Bayou Pierre, so called from
the settlement of that name. The streams are all short in their courses ;
none exceeding twenty five miles in length. Black hickory may be
considered the prevailing timber. Some extensive flats of post oak
(quercu:- obtusiioba) exist, and where this tree prevails, the land is
poor and wet.

8C EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

The dividing ridge between the Sabine and Red rivers, preserves
at this place nearly an equal distance from each stream ; the streams
respectively flowing in opposite directions ; those of Red river, N. E. ;
those of Sabine, S. W. After leaving the settlement of Bayou Pierre-
about eight miles to the west, pine again occurs in great abundance,
interspersed with black-jack ridges. The country is very broken,
poor, and on the hills sandy and rocky. Here is seen a phenome-
non often beheld in Louisiana. Some of the creeks are fine clear
streams of water, whilst otkers have their channels dry, except when
supplied by rain. There is nothing peculiar in the country to point
out the reason of the difference.

Upon some of the streams are large quantities of a species of
maple, having the external appearance of the acer nigrum of Michaux.
This tree is very scarce in all lower Louisiana, and utterly unknown
in any part south, of the place under review. It is here found m its
usual company, the beech, black oak, white oak, and ash. Whether
this maple is really the acer nigrum (black sugar tree,) of Michaux,
or a nondescript, remains undetermined.

Enough of the bottom land of this region is fertile to admit of ex-
tensive settlement. The timber is very large and excellent. Ap-
proaching the Sabine, no very perceptible change in the general ap-
pearance of the country takes place. The surface of arable land,
perhaps, is something more extensive. The eastern side of the Sa-
bine in all its length, from the 32° N. lat. to the gulf of Mexico, is low,
and more subject to overflow than the western. A ridge of hills
winds along the western shore of the Sabine, often projecting preci-
pitous ledges of sand stone rock, over the stream. In no one place
does a bluff reach the river on the east side. The rock is all perfect-
ly horizontal, and of one species, bluish friable sand stone. There
are few indications of metals, none of either lime stone or mineral
coal. At a distance from the river, in the creeks and even on the
highest hills, occur pudding stone, with petrified wood, often im-
bedded in the mass. Rounded siliceous pebbles are scattered over
every part, and often form the body of the hills.

The general timber upon the Sabine is composed of pitch pine,
black oak, red oak, white oak, black hickory, sweet gum, black gum,
ash, beech, and dogwood. Cane is abundant upon the margin of the
river, but does not extend far from the stream, and is generally of
small growth.

Receding from this place towards Opelousas, pitch pine gradually
encroaches upon the other trees ; and below 32° N. lat., to the prairies
on Mermentau and Calcasiu, may be termed a pine forest, except;
the margin of the streams ; and even there the pine often reaches to
the water. This is frequently the case with the Sabine, whose banks
are at intervals clothed with an unmixed pine wood.

Above 32° N. lat. the country maintains the character pointed out
npon the traverse ran by the author, until merged into the great prai-
ries towards the Panis villages.

Red river enters the state of Louisiana in one undivided stream, and
flows southward into the state about thirty milps by a direct course ;
fhen spreads out into a number of channels and lakes, forming an inun-,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. S7

elated swamp six miles wide and fifty long. This overflowed tract in
Red river, may be strictly called the commencement of its delta, as,
in strictness, the river never does again unite in one continuous stream.
The breadth of the oveiflovved land has been much overrated. The
author measured the high lands along both banks, from the town of
Natchitoches to 32° 65' N. lat., and determined by actual survey the
length and breadth of the inundated part. The aspect of the country
above Natchitoches on the eastern, is greatly superior to that near the
western side of Red river. The bottoms on the creeks are more ex-
tensive, and of better soil, than are those towards Sabine. The hills,
though much more elevated, are more gradual in their elevation.

At low water this inundated country is an assemblage of islands,
between the various lakes and channels, but at the season of high wa-
ter, all the low lands are covered and become one great lake. It will
be obvious to any person who visits the country and observes the ob-
jects presented by nature attentively, that the present situation of
things in the delta* of Red river is of recent origin. In all the
large lakes, the remains of tiie cypress tree still appear to attest the
ancient state of the country. In Natchitoches, Spanish, Black, Bisti-
nean, and Bodcau lakes, the ruins of the cypress tree are abundant.
The cypress, like all other trees, perishes whenever its roots are im-
mersed in water throughout the year. The timber of this tree resists
the combined action of air and moisture longer than any known
wood, and for this reason their stems now remain in these lakes per-
haps ages after the other trees that formerly grew in the same places
have fallen and mouldered away.

It would appear that Red river had gradually deposited alluvion
sufficient to fill up the valley through which it ran, above the level of
the bottoms of the creeks that entered from each side. No creek en-
ters Red river below the commencement of this inundated tract, but
which forms lakes previous to entering the main stream. In this
manner has been formed all the lakes near the river. Many of those
lakes have ten or fifteen feet water in the driest seasons, where once,
grew a forest.

There is no direct channel remaining through the alluvial tract from
its commencement to the Grand Ecor, four miles above Natchitoches^
It is not without considerable difficulty that boats can be piloted
through, and only at high water can pass. Many parts of the various
ehanuels are choked with trees. There is not, however, as generally
thought, any continued raft. No floating timber can now escape
through this labyrinth, and the circumstance affords positive evidence

* As this term frequently occurs in this and other works on Louisiana, it njay
not be improper to give its explanation. The estuary of the Nile was called by
the ancients, from its resemblance to the Greek letter A; delta. This was tole-
rably appropriate when applied to the Nile, but could not apply to other rivets
whose mouths formed lands of very different outlines. It is now used to desig-
mate the alluvial tracts formed by the abrasion of the waters of any river, whose
streams carry down, and deposite great bodies of sediment near their moutha.
Adopted in this manner, the term delta serves to point out a distinction be-
tween two classes of rivers ; those which, like the Nile and Mississippi, pro
trude bodies of land, from those which, like the Delaware, Susquehannah, and
Plate, have wide bays for their estuaries.

88 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

that the perioil cannot be very remote when the river was absolute-
\y closed. Red cedar is very plentiful on Red river above the *tate
of Louisiana: logs of this tree are found lodged in the banks of Red
river near Natchitoches, but none now come down the stream. The
cedar is frequently found on the banks as low as Alexandria at the
Rapids. Its present existence is no doubt to be attributed, like that of
the cypress, to the great durability of its wood.

Between Grand Ecor and the town of Natchitoches, most of the
stream of Red river is again re-ur;ited. This is, however, the case
only at low water when the river is swelled by spring floods: several
outlets flow froin the main stream between Grand Ecor and Campte.
These outlets flow into Black lake and Saline rivers, and finally join
Red river again by the stream of Rigolet de bon Dieu. Several out-
lets leave the Rigolet de bon Dieu, and flow into the Hie tan river ;
and before the latter joins Bed river the outlet of Bayou Rapide leaves
that stream from the right shore. The water only enters this latter
outlet at high water. When all the rivers are low, Hemphill's creek,
that enters Bayou Rapide, presents a curious spectacle to the travel-
ler. The water of Hemphill's creek is very limpid, and immediate-
ly on falling into the channel of Bavou Rapide divides ; one part flow-
ing south joins Red river at the town of Alexandria ; the other north,
into Red river below Gilliard's plantation. Out of Bayou Rapide se-
veral outlets flow, forming by their junction Bayou Bceuf; which in
its turn contributes with Bayou Crocodile to form Couriableau river,
in Opelousas.

In the peninsula between Red and Ouachitta rivers, rise several small
streams, part of which fall into the latter, and others into the former.
Of those which unite with Red river, the principal are Bodcau, Da-
cheet, Black lake, Saline, and Hietan rivers ; the tributaries of Ou-
achitta are Derbane and the united streams of Dugdomoni and Little
river, entering Ouachitta under the name of Ocataboola river.

Upon all these streams the land presents great sameness: the soil
and timber are, in the particular, relative positions, very near specifi-
cally alike. The approximation of the earth to the surface of a real
sphere in all Louisiana, is proved by the distance to which those fore-
going rivers are rendered stagnant by the elevation of the Mississippi
in spring floods. The streams at low water flow with considerable
velocity ; but when the Mississippi and Ked rivers are swelled by
spring floods, the valleys of their tributaries are rendered completely
stagnant almost to their sources. The country is hilly, but does not
appear to rise gradually from the level of the ocean, but to stand upon
a plain.

Indications of iron are almost every where visible. The hills rest
upon sand stone slate. Rounded pebbles form in many places the
incumbent stratam. Salt springs* are frequent upon all the streams

* No term is more frequent than that of salt spring : it has been used by the
author from respect to common usage; whilst he is conscious, that correctly
speaking; no such thing as a salt spring exists In all places where salt (muriate
of soda,) is found in the interior of this continent, its presence is known by
sandy flats similar to the beeches of a river. From the frequency of salt upon
•the earth's surface in the valley of the Mississippi} and also from tbat mineral

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. S9

between Ouachitta and Red river inclusive. Two or three of those
springs are in operation, the principal of which are Postlethwait's
works on Sabine and Red river. At the place where this manufactory
is established, any quantity of salt might be made, that the exigencies
is of the neighbouring country could demand. The inhabitants of Nat-
chitoches, Rapides, and other settlements in the vicinity, are now sup-
plied with excellent salt from one to two dollars per barrel. Upon
Ouachitta and Dugdomoni are salt springs equally capable of produc-
tion with that wrought near Natchitoches. As the population increases,
these repo^ifc-ies of one of the most necessary minerals will be open-
ed, and their stores distributed for general use.

A reference to the table facing page 9 of this treatise will show
the present very madequate popuhtion, and the great disproportion
between ihe land claimed and settled by individuals, and that yet
held by the government of the United States. In respect to landed
property, there is an essential difference between the north and south
side.i of Red river : in the parts of Louisiana in the latter section the
best of the soil is alienated to individuals ; in the former, the far
greatest part of the surface and much of the best land remains yet va-
cant.

This is peculiarly the case with an extensive and very fine body
of land upon the creeks that flow into Dacheet river and lake Bisti-
neau, and also upon the waters of Derbane, Black lake, Littie river,
and Saiine rivers west, and upon the Tensaw Macon Boeuf and some
smaller streams east of Ouachitta.

The lands east of lake Bistineau, upon the creeks that enter that
lake, and upon the margin of the lake itself, are of a mixed character.
The bottoms are often wide and the soil of excellent character. In
this place are the only arable parts in Louisiana of that species of
land known in the northern states as bottom land. The alluvial
banks of the Mississippi and its enterlocutory streams, though com-
posed of similar materials, present an aspect very different from that
kind of surface, known as bottom grounds, on the waters of Ohio and
the Atlantic rivers. The former incline from, and the latter towards
the respective streams upon whose margin they are found. In addi-
tion to the bottoms, are also much of that kind of land known
in the southern states as hammock land. The side of the hills are
frequently composed of second rate land clothed with pine, black
oak, red oak, ash, black hickory, and dogwood. This latter descrip-
tion of soil would no doubt suit the culture of small grain. This
tract is yet entirely uninhabited, of course it is only by analogy that
the quality of the land can be estimated. No country can have the
advantage of finer springs of water. Though comparatively less ex-
tensive, the productive soil of ail the peninsula between Red and Oua-
chitta rivers, presents the same qualities and varieties as on lake Bisti-

being found by digging, there are many reasons to believe, that the entire sur-
face rests upon a superstratum impregnated with salt.

The waters of Red river are at Natchitoches so brackish, as to be rendered un-
fit for use, either for drink or cooking. This quality of the water arises from
the soil through which Red river flows ; many of the tributary streams are com-
posed u '.excellent, pure, clear, and sweet water
12

90 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

nerfu, and particularly, whatever other differences may exist, the water
is uniformly plentiful and good.

Considered geologically, this peninsula is below 33° N. lat. inter-
sected by one chain of high hills, which projecting several embranch-
ments, form the natural outline of the country. At the intersection
of the northernmost part of the 33° N. lat- and 16° W, Ion. from
Washington, a bold and considerably elevated ridge enters the state
of Louisiana, and about fifteen miles within the state divides into
three branches. The western branch bears a little west of south, se-
parates the waters that flow into DacLeet river and lake Bistineau,
from those which enter Black lake river ; finally sinks into the low
lands of Red river near 32 M. lat. The middle branch runs nearly
south after departing from the main ridge; discharges its water west-
ward into Black lake river, and eastward into Saline river ; and merges
into the low lands near the junction of those latter streams. The
third or eastern ridge diverges from the point of separation bearing
S. E., and continuing that course eight or ten miles, divides into two
ridges ; which may be, from their relative position, denominated
southern and northeastern. The former, or southwestern, seems to be
a continuation of the main chain, as in all its length it forms the divi-
ding ridge between the waters that flow southwest into Red river,
from those which are discharged southeast into the Ouachitta river.
After leaving the northeastern branch, the southwestern bears south-
west twenty miles ; gradually inclines to the south; continues that
course to the 3l° N. lat. where it curves a little east of south ; and
obeying very nearly the general course of Red river, finally termi-
nates upon the left shore of that stream, at the Ecor a Chene, about
fifteen miles S. E. of the town of Alexandria. The northeastern
branch, bearing southeast between the waters of Derbane and those
of the Dugdomoni and Little rivers, reaches within two miles of the
Ouachitta at 32° 18' N. lat. ; then follows that river, preserving a
distance of two or three miles from its margin : finally sinks into the
level alluvion at the court-house of Ocatahoola at 31° 42' N lat.

Leaving the alluvial banks of Red river and traversing the rugged
region, we have been describing, the traveller will again find himself
on a fertile recent alluvion on passing Ouachitta river.

Though its banks are generally composed of light materials brought
down by the stream, the Ouachitta, except on times of high flood,
exhibits a clear and beautiful current flowing gently, and on a smaller
scale, having considerable resemblance to the Ohio. The Ouachitta
was, before the expedition of Mr. William Dunbar and Dr. Hunter in
1804, but very imperfectly known. These gentlemen explored it to
the hot springs in 34° 30' N. lat. and procured such information of
its tributary streams, as to enable them to publish the history of this
fine river in considerable detail and great accuracy, as far as their
information extended. The author of this treatise traversed the
country adjacent to the Ouachitta twice, as high as 33° N. lat. and
availed himself of every opportunity to procure information respect-
ing the river, country, soil, vegetable and mineral productions. In
adding to the information given by Messieurs Dunbar and Hunter^

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. %l

iiis own researches, the following sketches may convey a tolerable
accurate conception of the Ouacbitta and its tributaries.

From the best information, the extreme source of the Ouachitta is
in 18° 30' VV. Ion. from Washington city, and at 34° N. lat. The
courses of the higher streams of the Ouachitta is first southeast sixty
or seventy miles ; then east one hundred miles, where three branches
unite ; and continuing east twenty miles, receives from the northeast
Hot Spring creek. This place is in itself remarkable, but has been
rendered an object of peculiar interest, as being the only part of this
remote region that has been carefully examined by men of science.
The researches of Mr. Dunbar and Dr. Hunter has established the
geological structure of the country near the hot springs to be composed
of secondary materials*schistose sand stone. The Masserne mountains,
out of which the Ouachitta flows, are ascertained to be not very eleva-
ted ; but not having ever been surveyed with accuracy, their compo-
nent parts are unknown with any precision.

The country watered by the head streams of the Ouachitta is ste-
rile prairie, or broken, rocky, mountainous land. The hot springs
are on the south side of the mountains, the adjacent country also bar-
ren. Some very confined tracts of good land does exist along the
streams, but not in quantity sufficient to admit a numerous popula-
tion. In addition to the salubrity of the water, this elevated region is
described as extremely healthful. Valitudinarians from Louisiana,
Arkansaw, and Mississippi, have been generally relieved, when la-
bouring under pulmonary complaints : how much of the cure was at-
tributable to change of air and relief from the anxiety of business,
it is difficult to say.

Below the mouth of Hot Spring creek. Ouachitta turns to the south,
and flowing in that direction twenty-five miles, receives from the
west the Fourcheau Cado ; and about a similar distance farther to the
south, the Little Missouri river. These two tributary streams rise in
the spurs of the Masserne ; and flowing nearly east, waters considera-
ble spaces of good land. Some prairies, but not of considerable ex-
tent, are interspersed over the surface of the country, and are gene-
rally composed of poor, thin soil.

Twelve miles southeast of the hot springs rises the Saline branch
of Ouachitta ; which, after a course of one hundred and fifty miles,
enters Ouachitta a short distance above the north limit of Louisiana,
The land upon the Saline is generally thin and poor.
. About thirty miles southeast of the heads of the Saline is the
source of the Barfhelemy ; which pursuing a course nearly parallel
to the former, joins Ouachitta at 32° 40' N lat. The Barthelerny is
bordered on each side by an excellent body of land, particularly
near its mouth. Before entering the Ouachitta the Barthelemy is
joined by an ancient outlet of the former stream. Here may be con-
sidered the commencement of the recent alluvion. The outlet men-
tioned above is denominated Bayou Siatd ; which after continuing,
with all its windings, about twenty-five miles, falls into Ouachitta
three mile above Fort Miro.

Extending N. E. from Bayou Siard and Ouachitta river, lies the land
granted by the Spanish government to the baron of Bastrop. As this

92 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

claim is important from its great extent, as is another upon both
bankr of Ou.tch.itta, a short distance bAow Biynu Sic rd, granted also
by the Spanish government to the marquis of Maison Rouge, the ti-
tles and quality of the soil of both are inserted in this treatise.
The information given, respecting ihe land contained in these grants,
are taken from actual observation made by the author on ihe spot.
The documents respecting the titles are extracted from the collection
made and published by the United States' government, pursuant to an
act of congress passed April 27th, i 8 i 0. The papers respecting these
lands exhibit one of the few instances where the administrators of the
government of Spain departed from the regular mode of granting land
in Louisiana.* If the conditions upon which these grants were made
had been acted upon to the utmost extent of the power of the claim-
ants, or the wishes of the Spanish government, it is difficult to deter-
mine how far the nature of the country would facilitate or oppose the
production of flour. Wheat of good quality has been raised on Oua-
chitta within the limits of these grants ; but admitting that it might
be made in large quantity, there is no doubt but cotton will enable
the planter on these lands to purchase flour cheaper than it can be
made upon their own farms.

So much speculation has been made respecting these grants, and
so vague are the opinions of the public on the subject, that their en-
tire insertion is made in this treatise, in order to enable the emigrant,
or land purchasers, to form their own conclusions on certain grounds.

Papers respecting Grand Maisorfs claim on Washita,
We, Francis Lewis Hector, baron de Carondelet, knight of Malta,
brigadier general of the royal armies of his catholic majesty, military
and civil governor of the provinces of Louisiana and West Florida ;
Dan Francis Rendou, intendant of the army, and deputy superintend-
ant of ihe royal domains in the said provinces ; Don Joseph de Orue,
Knight of the royal and distinguished order of Charles Third, principal
accountant for the royal chests of this army, exercising the functions
of fiscal of the royal domains, — declare, that we agree and contract
with the senior marquis de Maison Rouge, an emigrant French
knight, who has arrived in this capital from the United States, to pro-
pose to us to bring into these provinces thirty families, who are also
emigrants, and who are to descend the Ohio, for the purpose of form-
ing an establishment with them on the lands bordering upon the Wa-
shita, designed principally for the culture of wheat, and the erection
of mills for manufacturing flour, under the following conditions :

1st. We offer, in the name of his catholic majesty, whom God pre-
serve, to pay out of the royal treasury two hundred dollars to every
family composed of two white persons, flt iux agriculture or for the
arts useful and necessary to this establishment, as house or ship car-
penters, blacksmiths, and locksmiths ; and four hundred to those
having four labourers ; and in the same way, one hundred to those
having no more than one useful labour j or artificer, as before de-
scribed, with his family.

* See page 5,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 93

2d. At the same time we promise, under the auspices of our sove-
reign monarch, to assist them forward from New Madrid to Wishita,
with a skilful guide, and the provisions necessary for them, till their
arrival at their place of destination.

3d. The expenses of transportation of their baggage and implements
of labour, which shall come by sea to this capital, shall be paid on ac-
count of the royal domains ; and they shall be taken on the same ac-
count from this place to Wishita, provided that the weight shall not
exceed three thousand pounds for each family.

4th. There shall be granted to every family containing two white
persons fit for agriculture, ten arpens of land, extending back forty
arpens, and increasing in the same proportion, to those which shall
contain a greater number of white cultivators.

6th. Lastly, it shall be permitted to the families to bring or to cause
to come with them, European servants, who shall bind themselves to
their service for six or more years, under the express condition, that if
they have families, they shall have a right, after their term of service
is expired, to receive grants of land, proportioned in the same man-
ner to their numbers. Thus we promise, as we have here stated ;
and that it may come to the knowledge of those families who propose
to transport themselves hither, we sign the present contract, with the
aforesaid senior marquis de Maison Rouge, to whom, that it may be
made plain, a certified copy shall be furnished.

New Orleans, the seventeenth of March, 1795.

The BARON DE CARONDELET,
FRANCIS RENDOU,
JOSEPH DE ORUE,
The MARQUIS DE MAISON ROUGE.

Having laid before the king what you have made known in your
letter of the 25th of April last, No. 44, relative to the contract enter-
ed into with the marquis of Maison Rouge, for the establishment on
the Washita, of the thirty families of farmers destined to cultivate
wheat, for the supply of these provinces, his majesty, considering the
advantages which it promises, compared with the preceding, has been
pleased to approve it in all its part9. By his royal direction, I com-
municate it to you for your information. God preserve you many
years.

Madrid, 14th July, 1795. GARDOQUI.

To the Intendant of Louisiana.

New Orleans, Nov. 1 3th, 1795.

To be transmitted to the principal office of accounts (Contaduria)
of the army and royal domains, for their information, and two certified
copies to be provided for this secretary's office. RENDOU.

Don Gilbert Leonard, treasurer of the army, exercising the func-
tions of royal accountant, and Don Manuel Gouzales Armires, exer-
cising those of treasurer, par interior, of the royal chests of this pro-
vince of Louisiana.

We certify, that the two foregoing copies are conformable to the
originals, which remain in the archives of the ministry of the royal

94 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

domains under our charge, and that the contractor, the marquis de
Maison Rouge, complied punctually with the terms which he proposed
in the said contract ; and that this may be made manifest, conforma-
bly to the order above inserted, of this intendency general, we give
the present in New Orleans, the 5th of August, 1803.

GILBERT LEONARD,
MANUEL ARM1REZ.

The Baron de Carondelet, knight of the order of St. John, marshal
de camp of the royal armies, governor general, vice patron of the
provinces of Louisiana and West Florida, inspector of troops, &c.

Forasmuch as the Marquis de Maison Rouge is near completing the
establishment of the Washita, which he was authorized to make for
thirty families, by the royal order of July 14th, 1795; and desirous
to remove for the future all doubt respecting other families or new
colonists who may come to establish themselves, we destine and ap-
propriate conclusively for the establishment of the aforesaid marquis
de Maison Rouge, by the power granted to us by the king, the thirty
superficial leagues marked in the place annexed to the head of this
instrument, with the limits and boundaries designated with our appro-
bation, by the surveyor general, Don Charles Laveau Trudeau, un-
der the terms and conditions stipulated and contracted for by the said
marquis de Maison Rouge ; and that it may at all times stand good,
we give the present, signed with our hand, sealed with our seal at
arms, and countersigned by the underwritten honorary commissary
of war, and secretary of his majesty for this commandancy general.

New Orleans, the twentieth of June, 1797.

The BARON DE CARONDELET,
ANDRES LOPES ARMISTO.

ffote. — That in conformity with his contract, the marquis de Mai-
son Rouge is not to admit or establish any American in the lands in-
cluded in his grant.

The BARON DE CARONDELET.

Papers respecting Bastrop^s claim on Wishita.

To the Governor General —
The Baron de Bastrop, desirous of encouraging the population
and cultivation of the Ouachitta and its neighbourhood, of passing
into the United States to complete the plan of emigration which he
has projected, and from thence to return with his family, makes
known to your lordship, that it is absolutely indispensable on the
part of the government, that a district be designated ol about twelve
leagues square, including the Bayou Siard and its vicinity, in which
your petitioner may, without the least obstacle or delay, place the
families he is about to bring in, on the express condition that conces-
sions of land are to be made gratis, and under no title or prelext to
exceed, at most, four hundred arpens square, with a view to prevent
the introduction of negroes, and the making of indigo, which in that
district will be entirely contrary and prejudicial to the cultivation of
tvheat, and will cause your petitioner irrecoverably to lose the ex-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 95

pcnses of his establishment. Your petitioner prays also that you will be
pleased to grant him permission to export for the Havanna, the
flour which may be manufactured at the mills on the Ouachitta,
without confining him to sell it absolutely in New Orleans, and other
posts in this province, unless it should be necessary for their subsist-
ence, in which case they ought always to have the preference. It is
also indispensable that the government should charge itself with the
conducting and support of the families which the petitioner may
introduce from the post of New Madrid to Ouachitta, by furnishing
them with some provisions for the subsistence of the first months, and
assisting them to commence the sowing of their seeds, granting to
those inhabitants who are not catholics, the same liberty of con-
science as is enjoyed by those of Baton Rouge, Natchez, and other
districts of the province, and without fixing on the part of the govern-
ment conclusively, the number of families which your petitioner is to
introduce. The zeal which I feel for the prosperity and encourage-
ment of the province, joined to a desire of securing tranquillity and
quietude to that establishment, by removing at once whatever obsta-
cles might be opposed to those interesting objects, have induced me
to represent to you what I have here done, hoping that you will re-
cognise in these dispositions the best service of the king and advance-
ment of the province confided to your authority.
New Orleans, June 20th, 1796 *

DE BASTROP.

New Orleans, June 21, 1796.
Seeing the advantages which will result from the establishment
projected by baron Bastrop, the commandant ot Ouachitta, Don John
Feliol, will designate twelve leagues square, half on the side of the
Bayou of Siard, and half on the side opposite the Ouachitta, for the
purpose of placing there the families which the said baron may direct ;
it being understood that no greater concession of land is to be given
to any one than four hundred square arpens, at most, gratis, and
free from all dues. With regard to the object of this establishment,
it is to be for the cultivation of wheat alone. The exportation of the
products of this province being free, the petitioner need not doubt
that it will be allowed to him for the flour that he may manufacture
at the mills of the Ouachitta, to the Havanna, and other places open
to the free commerce of this province. The government will charge
itself with the conducting of the families from New Madrid to Oua-
chitta, and will give them such provisions as may appear sufficient for
their support during six months, and proportionally for their seeds.
They shall not be molested in matters of religion, but the apostolical
Roman catholic worship shall alone be publicly permitted. The
petitioner shall be allowed to bring in as many as five hundred fami-
lies ; provided, that after the lapse of three years, if the major part of
the establishment shall not have been made good, the twelve leagues
square destined for those whom the petitioner may place there, shall

* It is presumed that this date, as well as that of the decree of the Baron de
Carondelet, immediately succeeding, ought to have been 1795, instead of 1796.

96 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

be occupied by the families wbicb may first present themselves for
that purpose.

The BARON DE CARONDELET, (L.S.)
Registered, ANDRES LOPES ARMESTO.

The Baron de Carondelet, chevalier of the religion of St. John,
marshal de camp of the royal armies, governor general, vice pairon
of the provinces of Louisiana, West Florida, and inspector of the
troops, &,c. Whereas, the baron Bastrop, in pursuance of his petition,
dated the 20th of June of the year last past, and the decree of the
21st of the same month, has commenced the establishment of the
Ouachitta : that for the fulfilment of the stipulation on the part of the
government ; for avoiding progressively all obstacles, difficulties, and
delays ; and that the said baron might proceed with every facility in
fixing the families, which, to the number of five hundred, he was held
to place or cause to be placed there ; we have proceeded to designate
the twelve leagues intended for the said settlement, in the terms, with
the limits, metes, and bounds, and in the place marked, fixed, and
defined by the figured plan and description, affixed to the head of this
instrument, verified by the surveyor general, Don Charles Laveau
Trudeau. It having now appeared to us to be also most expedient,
for avoiding all contest and dispute, and approving them, as we do
approve them, by virtue of the authority which the king has granted
to us, we do destine and appropriate, in his royal name, the aforesaid
twelve leagues, in order that the said baron Bastrop may establish
them in the manner and under the conditions expressed in the said
petition and decree. We give the present, signed with our hand,
sealed with the seal of our arms, and countersigned by the under-
written honorary commissary of war, and secretary of his majesty
for this commandancy -general.

New Orleans, June 20th, 1796.

The BARON DE CARONDELET, (L.S.)
ANDRE LOPES ARMESTO.

To the Governor General —
Baron de Bastrop has the honour to make known to you, that it
being his intention to establish in the Ouachitta, it is expedient that
you should grant to him a corresponding permission to erect there
one or more mills, as the population may require ; as also to shut up
the Bayou de Siard, where he proposes to establish the said mills,
with a dike in the place most convenient for his works ; and as it ap-
pears necessary 1o prevent disputes in the progress of the affair, he
begs also the grant along the Bayou Barthelemi, from its source to
its mouth, of six toises on each bank, to construct upon them the
mills and works which he may find necessary, and prohibiting every
person from making upon said Bayou any bridge, in order that its
navigation may be interrupted, as it ought, at all times, to remain
free and unobstructed. This request, Sir, will not appear exhorbi-
tant, when you are pleased to observe that your petitioner, who will
expend in these works twenty thousand dollars, or more, will be
exposed, without these grants, to lose all the fruits of his labours, by

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 9,7

ihe caprice or jealousy of any individual, who being established on
this B^you, may cut off the water or obstruct the navigation ; not to
mention the loss which the province will sustain of the immense ad-
vantages to result from the useful project proposed for the encourage-
ment of the agriculture and population of those parts.
New Orleans, June 12, 1797.

DE BASTROP.

New Orleans, June 12, 1797.

Considering the advantages to the population on the Ouachitta, and
the province in general, to result from the encouragement of the culti-
vation of wheat, and the construction of flour mills, which the peti-
tioner proposes to make at his own expense, I grant him, in the name
of his majesty, and by virtue of the authorities which he has confer-
red upon me, liberty to shut up the Bayou de Siard, on which he is
about to establish his mills, with a dike at the place most proper for
the carrying on his works. 1 also grant him the exclusive enjoyment
of six toises of ground on each side of the Bayou Barthelemi, from its
source to its mouth, to enable him to construct the works and dams
necessary for his mills, it being understood, that by this grant, it is
not intended to prohibit the free navigation of the said Bayou to the
rest of the inhabitants, who shall be free to use the same, without,
however, being permitted to throw across it any bridge, or to obstruct
the navigation, which shall at all times remain free and open. Under
the conditions here expressed, such mills as he may think proper to
erect, may be disposed of by the petitioner, together with the lands
adjoining, as estates belonging entirely to him in virtue of this decree,
in relation to which the surveys are to be continued, and the com-
mandant, Don John Feliol, will verify and remit them to me, so
that the person interested may obtain a corresponding title in form.
It being a formal and express condition of this grant, that at least one
mill shall be constructed within two years, otherwise it is to remain
null.

The BARON DE CARONDELET, (L.S.)
Registered, ANDRE LOPES ARMESTO.

[Here follow a petition and decree, the same as the preceding, ex-
cept that the petition asks for six toises of ground on each side of the
Bayou de Siard from its source to its mouth, which are granted by the
decree.]

The Baron de Bastrop contracts with his majesty, to furnish, for
the term of six months, rations to the families which he has latterly
introduced at the post of Ouachitta, which are to be composed of
twenty-four ounces of fresh bread, or an equivalent in flour ; twelve
ounces of fresh beef, or six of bacon, two ounces of fine menestra, or
three of ordinary ; and one thousandth part of a celemin, (about a
peck) of salt, for which there is to be paid to him, by the royal
chests, at the rate of a rial and a half for each ration. For which pur-
pose there shall be made out monthly a particular account, the truth
and regularity of which shall be attested at post, by the command-
ant of that post. Under which conditions, I oblige mvself, with mv
13

98 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

person and estate, to the fulfilment of the present contract, subjecting
myself in all things to the jurisdiction of this general intendancy.

In testimony of which I sign it at New Orleans, the 1 6th of
June, 1797. BARON DE BASTROP.

New Orleans, June 16, 1797.

I approve this contract in the name of his majesty, with the inter-
vention of Senor Gilbert Leonard, principal contractor of the army in
these provinces, for its validity. Two certified copies are to be di-
rected to the secretary, Juan Ventura Morales. With my interven-
tion, Gilbert Leonard. Copy of the original, which remains in my
keeping, and which I certity, and is taken out to be passed to the
secretary of this general intendancy.

New Orleans, ut supra.

GILBERT LEONARD.

Whereas, the intcndant, from the want of funds, has solicited the
suspension of the last remittance of families, until the decision of his
majesty, there ought to be no prejudice occasioned to you, by the
last paragraph of my decree, which expresses, that if within three
years the major part of the establishment which shall not have been
made good, such families as may first present themselves shall be lo-
cated within the twelve leagues distinct from the settlement which you
have commenced ; and this shall only have effect two years after the
course of the contract shall have again commenced to be executed,
and the determination of bis majesty shall have been made known
to you. You will always remain persuaded, that on my part I will
observe religiously the engagements I have contracted ; a principle
which has constantly distinguished the Spanish nation. God pre-
serve you many years.

New Orleans, June 18, 1797.

The BARON DE CARONDELET.

To Baron de Bastrop.

Baron Bastrop attempted to carry into effect the stipulations of his
engagement, but the Spanish government failing in the performance of
their share of the contract, the whole project was ultimately aban-
doned. The marquis of Maison Rouge died, not ever carrying into
operation any part of the conditions upon which his grant was made,
but having procured the assent of the king of Spain, the patent was
tacitly confirmed. Though the approbation of the king of Spain was
not given in favour of Bastrop's claim, yet there are many very fa-
vourable circumstances under which the claimants now rest their
title to the property. One of the most powerful arguments in aid of
the validity of this grant is, that the legal representative of the first
grantee has always continued in possesion of the property from the
date of the grant. There cannot be much doubt but that the claim-
ants to the land as granted to Bastrop has as fair and equitable a title
to the soil as that of any other landed property in the state of Louisia-
na. Respecting that of Maison Rouge there is no doubt.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 99

The superficies of the grant of Bastrop are very various in quality;
beside the Ouachitta and Bayou Siard, which bounds the grant on
the west, it is traversed by the Barthelemy, Bon Idee, Bceuf and
Macon rivers.

Three prairies, each from three to four miles long and two broad,
diversify the surface. Prairie de Bute on the right bank of Barthe-
lemy, Jefferson, and Mer Rouge, between the Bceuf and Barthele-
my rivers. Though taken in all its extent, Bastrop's grant cannot be
considered a fertile body of land, yet in the forementioned prairies
and on the margin of the streams, considerable extent of good soil
exists.

The settlements already made in the grant are not inconsiderable.
The seat of justice for the parish of Ouachitta is in Prairie Mer Rouge.
The banks of Barthelemy are settled to considerable extent. Prairie
Jefferson is also inhabited and cultivated. Scattering farms are to be
found over ail parts of the grant. Much of the best land, however,
remains still vacant.

The interval between the streams is generally pine forest, flat,
and in many places marshy. On the streams the timber is composed
of black oak, white oak, red oak, ash, linden, sweet gura, elm, dog-
wood, and other trees usually found on rich land

Cotton and tobacco are the staples, particularly the former. The
land and climate are favourable to its culture. Maize, potatoes, le-
gumes, and most garden vegetables, grow abundantly.

Of fruit trees which have been cultivated, the most plentiful are
figs and peaches, which are of excellent quality. Of vine fruits,
melons, pumpions, cucumbers, and squashes, are those most culti-
vated.

It has been observed, that small grain would grow, and in all pro-
bability, produee abundantly on Ouachitta ; and the reason why those
gramina will not be cultivated extensively, has been exhibited.

The following list contains the most valuable forest trees, found not
only on the land included in Bastrop's grant, but in the adjacent
country.

Celtis crassi folia, Hackberry,

Carasus virginiana, Wild cherry,

Cupressus disticha. Cypress,

Diospiros virginiana, Persimon,

Fagus sylvestris, Beach,

Fraxinus tomentosa, Ash,

Gleditsia triacanthos, Honey locust,

Juglans amara, Bitter-nut hickory,

Juglans laciniosa, Thick shell bark hickory ;

Juglans nigra, Black walnut,

Laurus sassafras, Sassafras,

Magnolia grandifloraj Large laurel,

Nyssa aquatica, Tupeloo,

Nyssa sylvatica, Black gum,

Pinus rigida, Pitch pine,

Populus angulata. Cotton weod>

10*0 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Platanus occidental is, Sycamore,

Quercus alba, White oak,

Quercus rubra, Red oak,

Quercus tinctoria,* Black oak,

Quercus nigra, Black oak,

Tilia Pubescens, Linden,
Robinia ps^ud acacia, . Locust,t

Ulmus Americana, Mucilaginous elm,

Ulmus rubra, Red elm. ;

The liriodendron might have been enumerated, but the tree is not
plentiful. On the streams the large cane affords extensive brakes, but
is yielding to the united action ot fire and cattle.

The land included in the grant made to the marquis Maison Rouge,
lies along both banks of Ouachitta ; commencing about five miles be-
low Fort Miro, and extending down the stream, following its bends
upwards of forty miles. Some small grants were made on land on
Ouachitta, and the land occupied previous to the date of this grant,
hut not of any considerable extent. The greatest part of the land
contained in the grant remains vacant. No soil in Louisiana is su-
perior to this part of the banks of the Ouachitta. Cotton is yet the
staple, and produced in great quantity in proportion to the ground cul-
tivated.

The surface of the country is variegated, and presents soil of very
different qualities. That part which lies east of the Ouachitta is
perfectly similar to the other alluvial lands of Louisiana : an arable
border of from two hundred yards to half a mile wide, shirts the
stream : in the rear of this rich selvage ot productive soil the over-
flowed surface commences, and continues indefinitely towards the
Bon Idee river.

On the west side of Ouachitta the river is also bordered by a mar-
gin of alluvial soil, but of less extent than on the east side. It has
been noticed, that a ridge of hills connected with those that divide
the waters of Red from those of Ouachitta rivers, winds along the
west side of the latter stream. This ridge enters Maison Rouge's
grant about ten miles below its higher extremity, and continuing to
follow the general course of the river, runs through the remainder o£
the land in descending the Ouachitta. The front of this ridge is
bold and precipitous, facing the river ; but declines gradually to the
Westward. It may be remarked, that all the water that flows from
these hills, descends towards the west, and enters Little river.

* Two very distinct species of the oak are- in Louisiana, indiscriminately
called black oak. The quercus tinctoria is a most majectic tree, and perhaps
its presence is one of the most certain indications of good land to be met with
in the country The common black oak is a less elevated, more branching,
and less valuable timber than the quercus tinctoria ; the latter is much more
abundant.the formerbeing seldom found in large quantity except near the mar-
gin of the prairies.

t The locust, not found in any part south of Red river, is plentiful on the
Ouachitta and Red river On Ouachitta it grows only on the banks of that
river, but on Red river is often found scattered over the face of the country
This tree abounds also at Natchez.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 101

The timber upon Maisbn Rouge's does not materially differ
•from that found on Bastrop's grant. On both the quality, abundance,
variety, and convenience of the timber, is one of the most remarka-
ble peculiarities of the country.

There are but few places where more pleasant and profitable estab-
lishments could be formed than on Ouachitta. The productive al-
luvion on one bank, and the high pine hills on the opposite shore,
afford choice of situation ; but few places can equal.

The Ouachitta is navigable for large boats at all times of the year,
except in very dry seasons. The river lands are extremely well
adapted to the production of cotton.

A question is demanded by almost all persons from the eastern end
middle states, whether this, or any other part of Louisiana, affords
good mill seats ? — In general, alluvial countries are too level to admit
waterfalls of any considerable height ; of course, such lands are not
productive in places where water can be applied to propelling ma-
chinery. It is worthy of remark, that in Louisiana, where the land
is fertile, waterfalls are unfrequent, and that where they abound the
land is sterile. And it may be farther remarked, that the use of
steam removes the necessity of having water; and admitting indefinite
choice of position, obviates many of the inconveniences of water as an
agent in machinery.

These observations on the Ouachitta may be concluded, by observ-
ing that, sugar excepted, there is no fruit or other vegetable produc-
tion raised in any part of the state of Louisiana or Mississippi, but
that may be brought to perfection «n its banks.

The general remarks made upon the Ouachitta, its lands, tim-
ber, and vegetable productions, may be extended to the soil upon
the banks of Boeuf, Macon, and Tensaw. Wherever the banks
of these streams are elevated sufficient for culture, cotton may
be considered the staple. A reference to the list of distances from
New Orleans to the hot springs,* will enable the reader to perceive
the commercial facilities of the intermediate places. The time con-
sumed in a voyage from New Orleans to either Natchez or Ouachitta,
and to return, is about twenty days.

Numerous saw mills exist on the branches of Little river, from
which great quantities of lumber is transported down the various
rivers to New Orleans.

Political divisions, — settlements, — towns. — In the N. W. section of
the state of Louisiana, there are parishes ; Natchitoches, Rapides,
Ocatahoola, Ouachitta, Concordia, and Avoyelles.

NATCHITOCHES embraces the N. W. angle of the state, lying
upon the waters of Red, Sabine, and Calcasiu rivers ; having Texas
west, Sabine southwest, Opelousas south, Rapides southeast, Oua-
chitta east, and the Missouri territory north.

Natchitoches town stands upon the right or west bank of Red river,
31° 46' N. lat. 16° 7' VV. from Washington city. This town, or
rather post, was established in January 1717. The first buildings
were erected about one mile to the south of the present villageo
The remains of the old fort and of the gardens still remain visible..
s See page 46.

102 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Natchitoches is, and must continue, a place of considerable conse-
quence. Before the revolution commenced in Texas in 1811, an ex-
tensive inland trade was carried on between the people of Louisiana
and those of the Spanish internal provinces, of which this town was
the entrepot. This traffic will be at home future day revived. A few
troops are stationed here, which, with the Indian trade, still gives a
lively business to the village. The town itself is situated upon the
alluvial banks of Red river; but the pine hills commence within two
hundred yards of the river brink, upon one of which is Fort Clai-
borne.

The waters of Red river are brackish, but some springs of excel-
lent water exist in the hills to the west of the town, from which the
inhabitants are supplied with that indispensable necessary of life.

Natchitoches is the largest town in Louisiana west of the Missis-
sippi. The present number of inhabitants must exceed six hundred,
exclusive of the garrison.

The parish of Rapides, so called from the French name for rapids,
lies southeast of Natchitoches ; situated principally in the valley of
Red river, but extending to reach the waters of Ouachitta ; having
Natchitoches northwest, Opelousas south, Avoyelles, Concordia, and
Ocatahoola east, and Ocatahoola and Ouachitta north. In quality of
soil and general objects of production, this parish differs very little
from that of Natchitoches.

Alexandria lies on the right or west bank of Red river, half a mile
below the rapids, 31° 19' N. 15° 28' W. from Washington city.
This is a very flourishing village. At times of low water, standing at
the head of barge navigation. The settlements around this town are
flourishing and wealthy. It is supposed by many, that Rapides has
more valuable land in proportion to its extent, than any other parish
in the state. The distance from Alexandria to New Orleans will
be seen by reference to route No. 13, page 47 of this treatise.

OCATAHOOLA is situated entirely in the valley of Ouachitta.
No town of any note has hitherto arisen in this parish , and as re-
spects its productions and improvements, little can be added that has
not been anticipated, when speaking upon the Ouachitta lands. The
settlements are scattered npon Little river, Ocatahoola prairie, and
Ouachitta river, Sicily island, and Boeuf river and prairie.

OUACHITTA possesses no town of consequence : the settlements
are extended along Ouachitta river, Bayou Siard, Barthelemy river,
and Prairies Mer Rouge, and Jefferson. Some scattering settlements
are formed on various places, particularly, the Derbane west of Oua-
chitta, but not extensive.

CONCORDIA stretches along the right bank of the Mississippi,
having that stream east, Macon, Tensaw, Black, and Red rivers
west, and the parish of Ouachitta N. W. This parish occupies an
inclined plane : its entire surface is alluvial, and all its soil excellent
that is sufficiently elevated to admit of culture. Concordia, from its
position, is very much exposed to the overflow of the Mississippi,
and the reflux of the Red river and its interlocutory streams. Cot-
ton is the only staple ; the quality excellent.

Concordia town, opposite Natchez, is the seat of justice ; but as a

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 103

village is of but little consequence : it is the only town in the parish.
Settlements are on the Mississippi, and lakes St. John, Concordia,
St. Joseph, and Tensaw rivers.

AVOYELLES, so called from the prairies of that name ; having
on the east the Red, Mississippi, and Atchafalaya rivers, south-
west Opelousas, and northwest and north Rapides. The settle-
ments of Avoyelles are most part in the prairie, and tolerably
compact. The land of the prairie is high, and bears much greater
resemblance to Opelousas than to the lands of Red river, though
contiguous to the latter. The outlets of Red river forms water
courses, which with the parent stream, encircles the prairie ; and at a
time of high water renders it entirely insulated.

All the lands of this parish that are of sufficient elevation to be
arable, are of first rate quality ; great part of which remain yet pub-
lic property.

Cotton is the staple ; and together with maize, constitutes the
principal object of culture. No town exists in the parish.

These observations on the N W. section may be closed by observ-
ing, that during the season of inundation, the passage from the east
side of the Mississippi is very difficult, except through the water-
courses. The best time of the year to visit this country is in the
months of September, October, and November.

Nothing has been said on the prices of land. Nothing can be said
with precision on that subject. Prices vary to infinity. The mini-
mum price of good land will, for many years to come, be here and
almost every where on the frontiers of the United States, two dollars
per acre ; but above that sum, the value must be estimated from the
combined advantages of every individual tract.

( 104 )

CHAPTER III.

The stale of Mississippi was designated by the following act of
congress.
An act to enable the people of the ivestern part of the Mississippi territory

to form a constitutional and state, government, and for the admission of

such state into the union on an equal footing with the original states.

Be it enacted by the Senate and Hoube of Representatives of the
United States of America, in Congress assembled, That the inhabi-
tants of the western part of the Mississippi territory be, and they here-
by are authorized to form for themselves a constitutional and state go-
vernment, and to assume such name as they shall deem proper; and
the said state, when formed, shall be admitted into the union upon the
same footing with the original states, in all respects whatever.

Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That the said state shall consist
of all the territory included within the following boundaries, to wit :—
Beginning on the Mississippi river at the point where the southern
boundary line oi tbe state of Tennessee strikes the same; thence' east
along the said boundary line to the Tennessee river ; thence up the
same to the mouth of Bear creek; them.e by a direct line to the north-
west corner of the county of Washington ; thence due south to the
gulf of Mexico; thence westwardly, including all the islands within
six leagues of the shore, to tbe most eastern junction of Pearl river
with lake Boigne; thence up said river to the thirty-first degree of
north latitude ; thence west along the said degree of latitude to the
Mississippi river ; thence up the same to the beginning.

Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That all free white male citizens
of the United States, who shall have arrived at the age of twenty -one
years, and resided in the said territory at least one year previous to
the time of holding the election, and shall have paid a county or terri-
torial tax, and all persons having in other respects the legal qualifica-
tions to vote for representatives in the general assembly of the said
territory, be, and they are hereby authorized to choose representatives
to form a convention, who shall be apportioned among the respective
counties in the said territory as follows, to wit : — From the county of
Warren, two representatives ; from the county of Claiborne, four re-
presentatives ; from the county of Jefferson, four representatives ; from
the county of Adams, eight representatives; from the county of Frank-
lin, two representatives ; from the county of Wilkinson, six represen-
tatives ; from the county of Amite, six representatives ; from the coun-
ty of Pike, four representatives ; from the county of Lawrence, two
representatives ; from the county of Marion, two representatives ;
from the county of Hancock, two representatives ; from tbe county
of Wayne, two representatives; from the county of Greene, two re-
presentatives ; from the county of Jackson, two representatives ; and
the election of the representatives aforesaid, shall be holden on the
fust Monday and Tuesday in June next, throughout the several coun-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. IQ§

ues above mentioned, and shall be conducted in the same manner a.s
is prescribed by the laws of said territory, regulating elections there-
in for members of the house of representatives.

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted, That the members of the con-
vention, thus duly elected, be, and they hereby are authorized to meet
at the town of Washington, on the first Monday in July next; which
convention, when met, shallfirst determine by a majority of the whole
number elected, whether it be or be not expedient, at that time, to
form a constitution and state government for the people within the
said territory : and if it be determined to be expedient, the conven-
tion shall be, and hereby are authorized to form a constitution and
state government: — Provided that the same, when formed, shall be
republican, and not repugnant to the principles of the ordinance of the
13th of July, 1787, between the people and states of the territory
northwest of the river Ohio, so far as the same has been extended to
the said territory by the articles of agreement between the United
States and the state of Georgia, or of the constitution of the United
States;— and provided also, That the said convention shall provide,
by an ordinance irrevocable without the consent of the United States,
that the people inhabiting the said territory, do agree and declare that
they for ever disclaim all right or title to the waste and unappropria-
ted lands lying within the said territory, and that the same shall be
and remain at the sole and entire disposition of the United States ;
and moreover, and each and every tract of land sold by congress,
shall be and remain exempt from any tax laid by the order or under
the authority of the state, whether for state, county, township, parish,
or other purpose whatever, for the term of five years lrom and after
the respective days of the sales thereof, and that the lands belonging
to citizens of the United States, residing without the said state, shall
never be taxed higher than the lands belonging to persons residing
therein- and that no taxes shall be imposed on lands the property ot
the United States, and that the river Mississippi, and the navigable
rivers and waters leading into the same, or into the gulf of Mexico
shall be common highways, and for ever free, as well to the luhahi
tants of the said state as to other citizens of the United States, with
out any tax, duty, impost or toll therefor, imposed by the said state
Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That five per cent, of the nett pro
reeds of the lands lying within the said territory, and which shall be
sold by congress from and after the first day of December next, alter
deducting all expenses incident to the same, shall be reserved tor ma-
king public roads and canals ; of which three-fifths shall be applied
to those objects within the said state, under the direction of congress :
Provided, that the application of such proceeds shall not be made
until after payment is completed of the one million two hundred and
fifty thousand dollars, due to the state of Georgia in consideration ot
the cession to the United States, nor until the payment ot the stock
which has been or shall be created by the act, entitled " An act pro-
viding for the indemnification of certain claimants of public lands in
the Mississippi territory," shall be completed : And provided also,
That the said five percent, shall not be calculated on any part oi such
proceeds as shall be applied to the payment of the one million two
• * 14

106

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

hundred and fifty thousand dollars, due to the state of Georgia, in
consideration of the cession to the United States, or in payment of the
*tock which may or shall be created by the act, entitled " An act pro-
viding for the indemnification of certain claimants of public lands in
the Mississippi territory."

Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That until the next general cen-
sus shall be taken, the said state shall be entitled to one representative.
in the house of representatives of the United States.

H. CLAY,
Speaker of the House of Representatives.
JOHN GAILLARD,
President of the Senate pro tempore.
March 1, 1817 — Approved,

JAMES MADISON.
The state of Mississippi is divided politically into two portions. The
part included in the counties named in the foregoing act of congress,
forms the least, but much the most valuable part of the state. The
second and most extensive division remains yet in the possession of the
Choctaw and Chickesaw Indians.

The following table will exhibit the relative extent of the counties,
and their population in 1810. This will no doubt give a very inade-
quate conception of the number of inhabitants, now existing in the
different counties, or their aggregate amount. A very considerable
influx of emigrants is annually removing into the country now includ-
ed in this state.

Counties.
Warren
Claiborne
Jefferson
Adams
Franklin
Wilkinson
Amite
*Pike
*Lawrente
*Marion
^Hancock
Wayne
'Greene
*Jackson

Statistical Table of the State of Mississippi.

Square Miles

414

396

540

414

378

612

972

720
1000

828
2100
1800
1856
1050

Population in 1810.
1114
3102
4001
10,002
2016
5068
4750

1253

In 1816.
1,570
3,500
4,900
10,000
2,700
7,270
5,060
2,620
1,780
1,700
1,000
2,080

Towm.
Warren
Gibsonsport
Greeneville
NATCHEZ
Liberty
Woodville
Liberty
Jacksonville
Monticello

Winchester

13,080 31,306 44,180

The convention authorized by the act of congress, for forming a
constitution and state government for the western part of this territory,
assembled in the town of Washington on the 7th day of July, 1817.
All the delegates were present, except Colonel John Bond, of Pike
county. They closed their labours on the 15th of August.

1 Counties made since 1810.

EMIGRANTS GUIDE. 10?

His excellency Gov, Holmes was elected president, and conducted-
to the chair, from which he delivered a short and impressive address ;
and Lewis Winston, Esq. was elected secretary, who also addressed
the convention on the occasion.

A question was made by Judge Poindexter, to postpone, until the
15th March next, a resolution introiiiced into the convention [by
Mr. Turner] declaring the expediency of forming a constitution and
state government at this time, which was decided, yeas 12, nays 35.

The question was then put on adopting the resolution, and decid-
ed, yeas 36, nays 11. Judge Poindexter voted for accepting the
state government, on the final vote.

A committee was then appointed to prepare and report to the con-
vention, a plan for the constitution, consisting of Messrs. Poindexter,
Simpson, Leake, Rankin, Burnet, Downs, Meade, West, Wilkins,
Shaw, Brandon, Lattimore, Hanna, Minton, M'Nab, Runnels, Ford,
Jourdan, MCay, Patton, and Bilbo.

Mr. William Lattimore, late member of congress and a member of
the convention, for accepting a state government for the same, deli-
vered the following speech in the convention. It contains so many
and so important facts respecting the local subdivisions and inte-
rests of that country, and respecting the various land daims, that its
entire insertion was judged necessary.

Mr. Lattimore said, he did not presume that he could change the
disposition of any member of the conventien, in relation to this ques-
' tion. That it was one, however, in which the character and interest
of the country were very deeply involved ; and it behooved the con-
vention to deliberate seriously, whilst it was in its power to save the
state, and preserve the reputation of consistency.

He begged leave to premise, that he had no extraordinary feeling on
this subject. The time was when he had such a feeling ; but it had
now passed by. It was a subject on which he had taken an active
and highly responsible part. It had been a very interesting part of
his duty, which he met with zeal. That he felt, of course, a particu-
lar solicitude, so long as his conduct was under the consideration of
his constituents ; but they had now decided in his favour. A very
large majority of the members of the convention are elected on the
grounds of their being in favour of accepting of state government, unr
der the provisions of the law of congress ; and the members thus
elected had determined, early in the session, that it was expedient at
this time to form a constitution and state government. The difficul-
ties, (said Mr. L.) which now threaten us with a dissolution, have not
arisen from an indisposition to state government, agreeably to the
provisions of the law, but from a supposed conflict of local interests
between the eastern and western sections of the proposed state. He
therefore concluded, that his course had been sanctioned by the peo-
ple whom he had had the honour to represent ; and he now felt as
happy on this subject as any man could be. That it was always his
desire and care to represent the interest and wishes of his constituents,
and as far as his care went, he was now perfectly gratified.

Mr. L. admitted, nevertheless, that he still had such a sensibility ob

108 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the subject as was common to other members, when he considered
that the character and great interests of the country were at stake.
Relative to these interests, he said, he had knowledge of some facts,
which had a material bearing on the question, and which, with indul-
gence, he would lay before the convention. Mr. L. was of opinion
that it was expedient to establish state government at this time, be-
cause there was a great local interest to be represented in the next
congress. Here he adverted to tiie land claims below the 31° of lati-
tude, (Hancock and Jackson counties) which, he said, would proba-
bly be decided on, that session. In these claims, Mr. L. said, nearly
the whole population of that part of the country was deeply interest-
ed. He alluded also to the British land claims, which, from certain
circumstances stated, might be brought up at the same session ; as al-
so, the question of extinguishing the Indian title to lands east of the
Mississippi, which had been agitated at the last session of congress,
and would probably be renewed. These various subjects taken to-
gether, Mr. L. said, constituted an interest .of the highest importance
to the whole of the proposed state. How necessary then, he asked,
might it be, to have two senators and one representative in congress,
at their next session, instead of only one delegate without a vote ?
This, he said, was especially manifest, as related to the extinguishment
of Indian title, a subject confined chiefly to the executive branch of
the general government, of which the senate is a constituent part.

But much had been said, continued Mr. L. respecting the expedien-
cy of our having a large state agreeably to the present limits of the
territory ; and also respecting the line of division designated by the
law. Mr. L. observed, that he was always prepared to discuss these
questions, although he had abstained from doing it when they were
first before the committee, from an indisposition to produce excite-
ment or delay. But since these questions have recurred, he would
now state the facts he possessed, and the opinions he entertained.

Towards the close of last session of congress in 1814-15, Mr. L.
said, he reported a bill to the house for the admission of the territory
into the union, as a state, with its entire limits, in obedience to in-
structions to that effect; which bill was not acted on for the want of
time. At the next session he reported a similar bill, which, through
his exertions passed tlie house, but was postponed by the senate, as
similar bills had been in the time of his predecessor, to whom he then
appealed for the truth of what he said. For these postponements,
which were rejections in effect, the extraordinary size of the territo-
ry was assigned. Indeed he was convinced, from all he had seen and
heard in congress, that the Senate would never agree to admit the ter-
ritory without dividing it. Wherefore, and because his constituents
had expressed different wishes on the subject, he took another course
at the last session of congress. On the last occasion, when this sub-
ject was taken up by a select committee of the house, feeling the de-
licacy and responsibility of his situation, he abstained from any re-
mark until the committee generally had expressed its opinion, and
this opinion was unanimously and decidedly in favour of a division.
The next question was, by what line shall the territory be divided '1

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 109

On this question also, said Mr. L. be was silent, until the sense of the
committee was, ascertained. And why should he be silent and neu-
tral, he asked, when his constituents had expressed so many various
opinions, and evinced such a confliction of will, on this point ? He
knew what an interest was felt on this subject by his constituents in
the different sections of the territory ; and being the representative
of all, and not of any one section of the country, or portion of the
people, he had determined, before he left home, to leave it to con-
gress to choose their own line, whether it should be the Tombigbee
river, or an artificial line, provided it was such an one as might ap-
pear to him to be just. In examining this question, the committee
drew their fingers along the map west of the Tombigbee, from the
Tennessee line to the gulf of Mexico, and at once determined that the
jurisdiction of that river should belong, exclusively, to the eastern
section of the territory. To this Mr. L. said, he objected, upon the
ground that such a division would give more than an equal portion of
the territory to the eastern section. He was answered, however, that
the western section would even then contain a much greater quantity
of good land. He further objected, that the Indian claims had been
extinguished to three-fourths of the eastern, whilst they still covered
nearly the whole of the western section. But he was again answer-
ed, that an extinguishment of the whole of the Indian title was con-
templated as an event that would take place at some future time, and
that congress should not make permanent provisions in reference to the
present circumstances of the country, but to an ulterior state of
things. That the line which the committee seemed disposed to
adopt, was contemplated with reference to the geographical situation
of the territory, and not at all to the settlements already formed.
This line, Mr. L. said, would have separated the settlements on
the Pascagola river ; and with a view to preserve their integrity, as
also to obtain an equal division of the territory, he proposed that the
line should run from the gulf of Mexico to the northwest corner of
Washington county, in such a way as to throw the whole of those
counties into the proposed western state ; and from the point last
mentioned along the Chactaw boundary to the Tombigbee river ;
thence up the same to the Cotton Gin Pt. ; thence due north to Bear
creek. Such a line, said Mr. L. he advocated before the committee,
during two sittings, with much zeal, but with only partial success.
He said, he bad hoped to have completely succeeded, as the most
influential member of the committee on that subject, was a particular
friend of his, who had never opposed his wishes before, and to whom
the terrilory, especially the western part thereof, was under great
obligations, for his. attention to its interests, and his defence of its
character and rights.

The line ultimately agreed upon by the committee, and designa-
ted in the bill, Mr. L. observes, would have preserved the integrity
of the Pascagola settlements, as he wished, but for the inference of
Judge Toulmin, the representative of the Pearl river convention,
who, when he perceived that the senate would certainly pass a bill
with precisely the same provisions, came forward with a petition,
praying that the line might be removed much farther to the west, t«

110 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the northeast corner of Hancock county, as well as he could recollect.
In consequence of this petition, the bill was recommitted, and the
whole question put at risk. It was on this occasion, observes M. L.,
that he attended closely the proceedings of the Senate. The bill
was reported again without amendment", but when the senate acted
upon it for Ihe last time, some of the members, influenced by the
sentiments of the judge, strenuously insisted on making the Pascago-
la river the line. To preserve the bill from the danger of this oppo-
sition, and of the objections to the line proposed, the gentleman on
whom its support chiefly depended, moved that the line might run
due south from the northwest corner of Washington county to the
gulf of Mexico. This motion succeeded.

In the house, as well as in the senate, a strong disposition was
manifested in favour of making the Pascagola the line. This dispo-
sition, Mr. L. said, he had to overcome ; and though great efforts
had been made to attach blame to him in relation to this subject, it
was to his exertions, solely, that the line was not established much
farther west.

Having stated these facts, Mr. Lattimore proceeded to inquire
into the expediency of dividing the territory. A gentleman from
Jefferson had endeavoured to show the advantage we should de-
rive from a state with our entire limits, in the greater number of
representatives in congress, and in the consequent influence it would
give us in the choice of president of the United States. But, Mr. L.
said, he would undertake to prove the converse of this proposition
to be true. He had seen the members from the same state as much
divided on many questions, as members from different states. If the
territory should form two states, their respective representatives
would probably agree as well with each other on local questions, as
if tl.ey were all the representatives of but one state, with one entire
limit.

In relation to the senate, said Mr. L., the advantages of division
were very obvious. By having two states instead of one, we should
have four senators intead of two. The proposed western state would
then certainly have two senators to itself, and two electors of pre-
sident and vice president. But without division, the western part
of the state would not have even one senator, nor governor, nor seat of
government, nor any general officer, except one representative to con-
gress, unless bestowed upon us by the liberality of the eastern part
of the state, which, having a decided preponderance in population
and representation, would control us at will. Such a control would
doubtless be exercised over us for many years. The western part of
the state might, in its turn, have the same control over the eastern
part, whenever the entire extinguishment of Indian titles should take
place. But such changes of power and preponderance were not all
desirable in a state, and he was in favour of division to prevent local
jarringa and strife.

Division, continued Mr. L., would give to this section of the union
an additional state, and of course two additional dectors of president,
to maintain its political influence and rights. It was this considera-
tion alone, said be, that had determined his opinion in favour of di-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 1 1 1

vision as contemplated by the act of congress, as preferable to an
union with Louisiana, which was a very reasonable proposition in
many points of view. By such an union, this section of the United
States would lose a state. By the plan of division proposed, a state
would be gained.

As to the scheme of uniting the waters of the Tennessee with those
of the Mobile, he would hope that it was a practicable one, and
would be glad to see it carried into execution. But who, he asked,
would derive the benefit of such a measure ? No one in the western
part of the territory. The memorialists plainly intimated that the re-
sources of the western part were necessary to accomplish this object,
although it was evident that the eastern part would enjoy, exclusively,
all the advantages which it would produce. He said, that he con-
sidered this reason of the memorialists altogether in favour of division,
when applied to the interest of the western part of the territory.

There were other reasons in favour of division, continued Mr. L.
He begged the attention of the convention to certain provisions in the
act for our admission, which appeared not to have been noticed.
Here Mr. L. read the proposed contract between the United States
and the state to be formed, as related to the provision for roads, from
which he drew this inference, — that the western part of the territory
would be scarcely able to bear its share of the burdens of govern-
ment, if the whole were admitted as one state ; and also the advan-
tage we should derive from separation, in having much more ample
funds for making roads through the proposed western state, as well as
the probability of obtaining a great road from some part of the elder
western states.

In the 5th section of the act for our admission, it is provided " that
five per cent, of the nett proceeds of the land lying within the said
territory, and which shall be sold by Congress from and after the first
day of December next, after deducting all expenses incident to the
same, shall be reserved for making public roads and canals ; of which
three-fifths shall be applied to those objects within the said state,
under the direction of the legislature thereof, and two-fifths to the
making of a road or roads leading to the said state, under the direc-
tion of congress." Such a provision as this, said Mr. L., has been
made in favour of all the new states, and he had himself seen some-
thing of the advantages of it, in the great road now making from Cum-
berland, in Maryland, to the state of Ohio. The expense of this road
is paid out of the twentieth part of the proceeds of the lands in that
state, set apart for purposes similar to those above mentioned. He
had travelled this road about thirty miles, over the Alegbany moun-
tains, where one might now drive a carriage full speed at midnight.
Such advantages in roads were held out to us also ; but it must be
understood that there was a quid pro quo contemplated in this pro-
vision: for it is also provided in the 4th section of the same act,
" that each and every tract of land sold, Congress shall be and re-
main exempt from any tax laid by the order or under the authority
of the state, whether for state, county, township, parish, or other
purpose whatever, for the term of five years from and after the re-
spective days of the sales thereof."

112 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Agreeably to the last mentioned provision, the proposed new state
eannot impose any tax upon lands, which may hereafter be purchased
from the United States, for five years from the time they are sold.
Now let it be observed, said Mr. Lattimore, that the benefit of this
provision cannot be claimed as to purchases already made ; and that
within the limits of the proposed state, there is rery little good land
for sale, whilst millions of acres, he might say, would be offered to
sale in the proposed Alabama territory, in the course of a few years.
He thought it probable, at least, that more land would be sold within
five years from this time, than is now held by all the individuals in
our proposed state. What then, he asked, would be the effect of this
provision, if the whole territory were admitted as one state ? This,
unquestionably, that the lands in the western part of the state would
all be taxed, whilst nearly all those in the eastern part would be ex-
empt. The eastern part would be by far the most populous, and yet
the western part would have to bear the burdens of government. That
part would govern, and this pay the expense. This inference, he
said, was inevitable, and could not be denied.

But, said Mr. L., he would take another view of this subject. Ac-
cording to the concluding provisions of the 5th section of the act, no
partof the five per cent, of the proceeds of the lands is to be applied to
the purpose of making roads, until after the debt due to the state of
Georgia, and the whole amount of the " Mississippi stock" are paid.
Out of what lands, he asked, will these claims be satisfied? Of course,
out of the first that will be sold. And where will these be ? Doubt-
less in the Alabama territory ; and unless a purchase of the Indians
should soon be made within our proposed western state, the lands of
the Alabama territory will satisfy the whole of these claims, and leave
to us an ample fund, untouched, for making roads every where
throughout the state, whenever an extinguishment of the Indian titles
takes place. In case of division, this would give us a great advan-
tage over the eastern state.

Mr. L. observed, that he would mention one other advantage,
which would be secured to us by a division, in relation to roads. The
5th section, already referred to, provides for tbe making of " a road
or roads leading to the state."

II the bill contemplated the admission of the whole territory, the
provision would probably be the same ; and, in that case, congress
would not be bound to make but one road leading to the state. If
they should be disposed to make but one, to what part would that one
lead ? Unquestionably to the eastern part, through Georgia from the
other Atlantic states. But if we are separated from the eastern part,
tbe spirit of the provision will require that tbe road shall lead from the
western states, with which we have tbe closest interests in every
point of view. A distinguished western member in congress advo-
cated a division of this territory partly with this view. He said he
wished to continue their great western road to our proposed state.

He said, that the line designated by law, was not the one he wished
to obtain. The one he was in favour of, and which he urged the
committee to adopt, would have divided the territory into two equal
parts as nearly as could well be imagined. The gentleman from

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. X 13

Wilkinson ridicules this line, because it is an artificial one. What is
the line which this gentleman proposes ? One which he would have to
commence at the middle of the bay of Mobile, and run thence due
north to the state of Tennessee. This line, said Mr. L., would, ac-
cording to the new map in the land-office, cross the Tombigbee
twenty or thirty times. He asked if this was not an artificial line?
Wa- it not as much so as the one he had suggested ? Yes, said Mr.
L., very artificial ; and he thought it required some ingenuity to con-
ceive of one so exceedingly bad.

Mr. L. stated the information which he had received, and on which
he relied, in relation to the difficult navigation to Mobile, and other
local inconveniences of that town. He also adverted to the position
of the town of Blakeley, on the opposite side of the bay, which various
reasons he assigned, he inferred would certainly supersede Mobile as
a commercial depot, and concluded that the latter would inevitably
fall. What then, he asked, becomes of the gentleman's great com-
mercial town ? But, continued he, if it should be a place of the great
impoitance which the gentleman from Wilkinson supposes, of what
advantage would it be to us? Who on the Mississippi, Amite, or
Pearl river, would carry his cotton to that market, or bring supplies
of sugar or coffee thence? As to the state tax on the merchandise of
the place, it was not worth naming. Let the town of Mobile be what
it may, it could not be an object worthy of our attention. Indeed,
said Mr. L., it would be a disadvantage to us ; for if it should be so
rich a place as the gentleman tries to persuade us, this very circum-
stance would invite the cupidity of an enemy in time of war.

The information given by Mr. Lattimore presents a luminous expo-
sition of the local interests of the new state of Mississippi and territory
of Alabama, and every thing considered, perhaps there is no local
division made in the United States so well calculated to leave the
respective parts a whole in themselves. Few states in the Union
have more local advantages than the Mississippi. Except sugar, the
most valuable staples yet produced in the United States can be raised
in the lands of this state. Every spot where the soil is capable of
culture, will produce cotton and tobacco. The latter, after the sub-
stances actually necessary to human existence, combines more advan-
tages to the cultivator and to the consumer than any vegetable matter
yet used by man for the gratification of his necessities, convenience,
or luxury. I fancy no part of the United States is better situated for
the culture and conveyance of that article to market: it is certainly
the region upon and in the vicinity of the mouth of the Mississippi
river, where that plant can be reared to most advantage.

The foregoing act of congress defines the limit of this state ; by
reference to the prefixed map, its relative position will be seen, and
the variety in its climates and local positions obvious.

The present population of the state of Mississippi is at present but
very vaguely known. So much increase must have taken place since
the last census as to have greatly augmented the mass. At the epoch
of 1810, West Florida was not divided between the two states of
Louisiana and Mississippi. In that part of West Florida included
in the state of Mississippi, there were in 1810 at least 5000 persons,
15

114 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

who, added to 31,30G, would have made a mass of 36,306. The
increment in the la st seven years cannot be less than 2000 annually,
which would swell the present population to near 50,000 people. The
real number rather exceeds than fails short of that estimate.

Besides an indefinite number of smaller rivers and creeks, the Mis-
sissippi state is watered by the Mississippi, Pearl, Pascagoula, Ya-
zoo, Big-Waok, Tennessee, and the western streams of Tombigbee.

The Mississippi river forms the west limit of the state, from the
31° to the 35° N. lat or in a direct line about two hundred and eighty-
miles; but following the winding of the stream near seven hundred
miles. The difference between the direct and river distance, exhibits
the excessive winding course of the Mississippi.

Of this distance two hundred is in front of the counties of Warren,
Claiborne, Jefferson, Adams, and Wilkinson. That margin of the
Mississippi that is contained in the new state, partakes of the general
character of the lands of that river, but iess favourably situated ior
settlement than the ritiht or west border. The hills approach towards
jthe river, and confining the water, render the east side more liable
to be inundated than the west. The hills reach the river, in many
places forming bluff-, as at Walnut hills, Grand and Petite gu!f. Nat-
chez, White cliffs, and Loftu-=' heights. The high lands pursue
nearly a direct course, whilst the river is extremely serpentine. Be-
tween the hills and the curves of the river, is included all the lands in
the state that can be correctly considered recent alluvion. Many ex-
cellent settlements are formed along the river, the soil producing in
abundance. The width of soil that can be reclaimed from inunda-
tion varies so much that no medium can be formed. The general
timber found near the Mississippi, is composed of populus angulata
(cotton wood,)salix nigra (black willow,) acer negundo (box alder,)
teltis crassifolia (hackberry,) jugians amara (bitter-nut hickory,) li-
quid ambar styraciflua (sweet gum,) platanusoccidentaiis (sycamore,)
fraxinus aquatica (water ash,) and ulmus aquatica (water elm.) At
a distance from the banks, cypress swamps are almost every where
found, and frequently reach the margin of the river. The cypress
swamps generally occupy the low lands, between the base of the hills
and the high banks of the river. The cypress seldom comes in con-
tact with the stream where the shores are convex. Many islands in-
tersperse the Mississippi, between the mouth of the Yazoo and the
31° N. lat., but are mostly too low to admit cultivation. The soil
of these islands is indeed extremely fertile . but no means existing to
defend their surface from immersion in the spring and summer floods,
the lands upon them cannot be of any considerable value, except for
timber.

The Yazoo river rises in the Chickesaw country, nearly as far
north as the south boundary of Tennessee. Interlocking with the
head streams of the Tombigbee, the Yazoo pursues a course of a
little west by south, falls into the Mississippi twelves miles above the
Walnut hills, forming the north boundary of the county of Warren for
about twelve or fifteen miles above Us mouth. The Yazoo consti-
tutes here also the present dernarkatiou between the Indian country
and that part of the state to which the Indian title is extinct.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. lis

Some excellent land lies upon the margin of the Yazoo river, but
the banks are mostly subject to overflow ; and in the interior of the
country distant from the river the soil is thin, and timbered chiefly
with pine.

The Yazoo is navigable for a considerable distance from its mouth;
but the greatest part of its course being within (he Indian country,
little is known with accuracy respecting its general features.

The Big-black enters the Mississippi above the Grand gulf, form-
ing from the Indian line to its mouth, the boundary between Warren
and Clairborne counties. This river has its source between the head
waters of the Yazoo and Pearl rivers ; its general course being nearly
southwest about one hundred and seventy miles in length. Like
all other streams which drain the high table land between the
Mississippi and Tombigbee rivers, the land upon the head waters
of the Big-black is sterile pine woods. The banks of the river
meliorate, and approximate in soil to those of the Mississippi, as the
two streams approach their junction. Following the windings of the
river, about thirty miles of the Big-black is within the settlements,
and affords much excellent soil. The country adjacent to this stream,
however, for many miles above its mouth, assumes the common qual-
ties and varieties of that upon the Mississippi.

Between the mouths of the Big-black and Homochitto rivers, Bayou
Pierre, Cole's creek, Fairchild's creek, and St. Catherine creek, en-
ter the Mississippi from the left or east bank of that river. Two-
thirds of Claiborne and one-third of Jefferson counties, are watered
by the Bayou Pierre. Cole's creek, and Fairchild's both enter the
Mississippi, in Jefferson county. St. Catherine creek rises near Selt-
zertown, on the northern border of Adams county, within which is
its entire water ; this creek fails into the Mississippi at the higher
extremity of the White cliffs.

Homochitto river rises in the Indian country, near the N. E. part of
Amite county. Many of its tributary creeks flow out of Jefferson
county, and crossing Franklin county, enter the principal stream in
nearly an eastern direction from Natchez. The general course of
the Homochitto river is S. W. about seventy miles in comparative
length ; and before entering the Mississippi, flows into a lake, which
once foimed part of the latter stream.

Some of the most wealthy settlements in the state of Mississippi
are upon the Homochitto and its tributary creeks. This river forms
the limit between the counties cf Amite and Franklin, and between
Adams and Wilkinson. For about fifteen miles from its mouth, the
banks of the Homochitto are annually overflowed, and unfit for settle-
ment. Four or five miles below the mouth of Second creek, the
arable high land commences, and continues with partial interruptions
to the source of the river. All the varieties of soil in the state of
Mississippi may be seen on this stream ; and almost every species
of forest tree growing in Louisiana may be found in its woods.

The river Buffalo rises in Amite county, flows through Wilkinson
county in nearly a western direction, and falls into the Mississippi
river, two miles above Fort Adams at Loftus' heights. The soil,ge-

11G EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

neral aspect of the country, and natural productions, differ litUe on
the lands watered by Buffalo, from those of Homochitto.

Below the mouth of Buffalo, the streams assume a south course.
A dividing ridge, of which Loftus' heights is the southwestern pro-
longation, extends itself from the elevation from which flows the Ya-
zoo and Pearl rivers, and continuing in a southwestern direction, di-
vides the waters of the Bouge Chitto and Amite from tho-e of the
Homochitto and Buffalo rivers, and finally terminates abruptly at
Loftus' heights.

This ridge is, in all its length, the separating line between the ri-
vers and creeks that lose themselves in the Mississippi, and those of
West Florida. It is also a limit of climate ; a sensible change of
temperature is perceivable on passing this distinguishing, though not
very elevated chain of hills. Snow is mo.e frequent in Adams than
in Amite county, notwithstanding their proximity, and their occu-
pying nearly the same latitude.

At Loftus' heights is seen the last stone or rock resting in strata, that
has been yet discovered in descending the Mississippi river. The
rock is a breccia, or pudding stone of evident recent formation ; and
only visible when the river is extremely low. The same species of
fossil forms the base of the bluffs from the mouth of 0;do to Loftus'
heights. The cement is argillaceous, very much impregnated with
iron ore. The most limpid water gushes over this mass of breccia,
but is considered unwholesome by the inhabitants, who live in the
vicinity. The most curious and singular petrifactions are admixed
with the rock, having a perfect resemblance to those found in the state
of Louisiana, in the neighbourhood of Lake Bistineau. Near the Bis-
tineau these petrifactions form a superstratum upon horizontal sand
stone, or the secondary floetz of Werner: there is no reasonable doubt
but that the breccia of the state of Mississippi reposes also upon a
similar base.

After leaving the banks of the Mississippi, and proceeding eastward
along the 31° N. lat. the first river of note that occurs is the Amite.

Amite river rises in the N. E. extremity of the country of that
name ; and by two nearly equal streams traverses the country in a
southern course, enters the state of Louisiana, and unites about two
mtles south of the line of demarkation between the two states.

The lands upon the Amite are of three very distinct qualities ; al-
luvion near the streams ; that species of slopes called hammock, and
the open pine hills.

Like alluvion, wherever it occurs, it is here extremely fertile,
timbered with liquid amber styraciflua (sweet gum,) quercus tincto-
ria (black oak,) tilia pubescens (linden, or lime tree ;) and many
other species of wood, indicative of fertile soil.

Hammocks are generally the slopes of hills, where are pine, sweet
gum, uogwood, and olher trees that designate a mixed soil.

The pine forests have nothing remarkable to distinguish them from
those of Louisiana; to which, in every respect, they have a perfect
resemblance.

The country on the head waters of Amite river is hilly and healthy,
and well timbered and watered. It is a pleasant, airy, and agreeable

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 117

region, having all the natural advantages that can render it a desira-
ble and profitable residence to an industrious people.

Bougue Chitto and Pearl rivers have been noticed, and their wa-
ters draining a country perfectly similar to that of the Amite, it
would be useless to enlarge upon them in this place.

Pascagoula river, a beautiful and important stream, rises in Choc-
taw country, and drains the space between the Pearl, Tombigbee,
and Mobile rivers. The constituent branches of the Pascagoula are
the Leaf, Chichisaw, and Dog rivers.

The western branch of Leaf river rises in Wayne county, and pur-
suing a S. E. course, enters Greene county, and unites with' another
and larger branch from the north: the united stream continues S. E.
crosses the 31° N. lat., about eight miles south ot Which comes in, from
the northeast, the Chickisawhay.

The Chickisawhay river rises in the Choctaw country; runs south,
and enters Wayne and Greene counties, until near the S. E. angle of
the latter, where the river turns S. \V. passes the 31° N. and joins,
as has been seen, the Leaf rivers. The united streams now take the
name of Pascagoula, and flow S. E. by S. forty miles, and fall into
the gulf of Mexico.

Dog river rises in the Alabama territory, and flowing south, through
Washington and Baldwin counties, crosses the 31° N. lat., continues
south, and is lost in the estuary of the Pascagoula. Only the mouth
of this river is in the state of Mississippi.

Though not so long in its course, there flows in the Pascagoula as
much or more water than does in the Pearl river ; and as navigable
streams, the preference is greatly in favour of the former. The bar
at the mouth of the Pearl admits vessels of six feet draught ; and
when in the bay and river, that depth continues to the junction of
the Leaf and Chickisawhay rivers.

The general aspect of the soil, on the waters of Pascagoula is
sterile; but upon the margin of the waters a considerable surface of
good farming land exists. The pine forests reach the gulf of Mexico
on both sides of the Pascagoula bay. The bay is represented in our
map, filled with low islands, which are void of timber. Thick woods
approach to the sea-shore, however, on leaving the bay either east or
west.

The border of the gulf, near the mouth of the Pascagoula river, is
esteemed amongst the most salubrious places in that climate. From
our own personal observation and inquiry on the spot, we are in-
clined to sanction this opinion. We could perceive no causes of pu-
trid exhalation. With the exception of the bay, the country is high,
dry, and well supplied with refreshing breezes from the sea. The
soil of this coast is sterile, but its unfruitfuiness is counterbalanced to
the inhabitants, by the health they enjoy.

Here many persons retire from New Orleans in the summer months.
In the progress of improvement, when New Orleans becomes more
and more crowded and extensive, and when suitable accommodations
are provided on the bays of St. Louis, Biloxi, and Pascagoula, aa
agreeable retreat will be open to those who desire to avoid the dan

118 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

gers, real and imaginary, of a summer residence in a large commercial
city on the banks of the Mississippi.

In the interior of the country, the lands watered by the Pascagoula
and tributary streams, have great resemblance to those of Amite and
Pearl rivers.

A general character pervades all that part of the state of Mississip-
pi lyinsi east of Wilkinson county. The three kinds of land noticed
in the review of Amite prevails, and with about the same proportion.

counties; their natural and artificial productions;

TOWNS.

The ridge of hills that has been before described, divides the state
of Mississippi into two unequal sections. The N. W. section com-
prises all the counties of Warren, Claiborne, Jefferson, Adams,
Franklin, and the greatest part of Wilkinson, and one half of Amite.
In the S. E. section are included one half of Amite, and all' Pike,
Lawrence, Marion, Wayne, Greene, Hancock, and Jackson counties.

These sections are of very unequal extent; the northwest con-
taining 3,240, whilst the southeast covers an area of 9,840 square
miles. The two divisions have very distinctive features of soil, cli-
mate, and natural productions. We will review each, and the con-
trast will appear apparent and striking.

It would be useless to give in detail the particular features of the
countries included in the northwest section. A steady uniformity pre-
vails in all the region from the Yazoo river toLoftus' heights, and even
to the 31° N. lat.

The western border of the northwestern section is formed by the
banks of the Mississippi. This border is intercepted by the hilly land
reaching the river, as at Walnut hills, Grand gulf, Natchez, White
cliffs and Loftus' heights. There are many other places where the
bluffs approach to whbin a very short distance of the Mississippi, as
at the Petite gulf. Villa Gayosa, and Pine ridge. The most exten-
sive Mississippi bottoms in this tract is below the mouth of Yazoo, at
Palmyra ; between Bayou Pierre and Cole's creek ; between Villa
Gayosa and Natchez, and between the White cliffs and Loftus'
heights. These bottoms are in few places five miles wide, and
would not average more than two and a half; which, allowing; their
length 200, would give 500 square miles as the entire superficies in the
tract in question upon which the Mississippi waters flow. Some ex-
tent may be added for the river and creek bottoms which protrude the
inundated surface into the interior. Six hundred square miles, we
are induced to believe, will be an ample estimate for all the surface
between the Yazoo and the south boundary of the Mississippi state,
which is liable to an annual immersion from the Mississippi, or by
other streams, rendered stagnant by the swell of that great river. The
hilly or broken country rises like a buttress from the foregoing plain;
producing a country of waving surface, though no part of its extent is
considerably elevated. There are but few places in the United
States where the soil affords more diversity than does the country wa-
tered by the Yazoo, Big- black, Homochitto, Buffalo, and the nuise-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

119

vous streams in their vicinity. No part of the earth is, perhaps, more

congenial to the production of its particular staple, than is this region

to the growth of cotton ; that elegant and truly useful vegetable

flourishes so luxuriantly in the warm and waving soil, that constitutes

most ot the superficies of the N. W. section.

After leaving the level inundated bottoms of the Mississippi, and

ascending the bluffs, and for ten or fifteen miles into the interior, the

surface of the country is generally composed of rich loam, and thickly

timered with

Quercus tinctoria, Black oak,

Quercus alba, White oak,

Quercus falcata, Spanish oak,

Quercus nigra,

Quercus obtusiloba, Pot oak, rare,

Quercus phil'.os, Willuw oak, rare,

Quercus rubra, Red oak,

Liriodendrun tulipifera, Poplar,

Laurel magnolia,

Juglans atnara, Bitternut hickory,

Juglans myris ticseformis, Nutmeg hickory,

Juglans nigra, Black walnut,

Juglans squamosa, Shell bark hickory,

Juglans laciniosa, Btack hickory,

Laurus sassafras, Sassafras

Liquid ambar styraciflua, Sweet gum,

Fraxinus aquatica, Water ash,

Diospiros virginiana, Persimon,

Fagus sylvestris, Beech,

Gleditsia triacanthos, Honey locust,

Acer rubrum, Red flowering maple,

Celtis crassifnlia, Hackberry,

Carpinus ostrya, Iron wood,

Carpinus americana, Hornbeam,

Castanea pumila, Chinca pin,

Cerasus virginiana, Wild cherry,

Populus angulata, Cotton wood, rare,

Platanus occidentaiis, Sycamore,

Tilia pubescens, Linden, or lime tree,

Ulmus rubra, Red elm,

Ulraus »mericana, Mucilaginous elm,

Ulmus alata, Winged elm.

The pinus rigida, at the pine ridge eight miles to the north of
Natchez, approaches within three miles of the banks of the Mississip-
pi. The existence of the pine at that place is a singular anomaly in
vegetation ; its growth is confined to an area not more than twenty
square miles. There is nothing in the general aspect of the country
to distinguish it from the common bluffs of the Mississippi. The land
is excellent, and the pine is admixed with other trees indicative offer-
tile soil. To the east of this tract, fifteen or twenty miles intervene
before the pine timber become? abundant. The alluvial banks of

120 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Faircbild's ?<nd St. Catherine creeks, bound the pine ridge to th«
north, east, and south, and to the west is the Mississippi bottoms.

We have not been informed, that the pine tree any where else ap-
proaches so near the margin of the Mississippi river as at Pine ridge.

The timber trees enumerated in the annexed list are found inter-
mingled along the bluff*, upon the creek bottoms, and in fact upon
every kind of land to be met with in the country.

The under growth is composed of different kinds of vines and
shrubs ; common wild grape, muscadine, dogwood. spice wood, papaw,
morns scabra (Spanish mulberry,) and brakes ol the arundo gigantea,
(great cane.) This vegetable has become comparatively rare, being in
great part destroyed by fire and domestic animals.

Upon land thus richly clad by nature, has arisen the fine farms
that now pour Wealth into the lap of their owners. Cotton is at this
time, and perhaps will ever remain the staple of this country. Tobacco
and indigo have both been cultivated, and the former nearly, and the
latter entirely abandoned by the planters. Maize, or Indian corn,
sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, and a great variety of other vegetables,
are cultivated successfully.

The apple, peach, fig, and plum, are the most common fruit ;
the peach and fig are most easily produced. As in Louisiana, the
summer showers do much injury to fruit along the east margin of the
Mississippi.

In fact, the general observations made on the fruits of Louisiana,
are applicable to those of the state of Mississippi, with exception of
the orange, and other fruits of the same family.

The facility with which the apple in every state of preservation
can be brought down the Mississippi, will operate against any great
attention being paid to its production in places where it is evidently
out of its congenial clime. The production of small grain, wheat,
rye, oats, and barley, will never become objects of culture where
cotton can be made at the rate of 3G0lbs. to the acre, at a price of
20 cents or more per lb. The production of cotton on more than
two-thirds of the laud included in the section of which we are now
treating, will rather exceed than fall short of the quantity we have
already stated. More than 2000lbs. in the seed, or above oOOlbs.
clean cotton, has been taken from an acre in many instances that
have come under our knowledge. Where flour can be procured at
10 dollars per barrel, or less, it will be purchased rather than made,
by a people who are in the habit of realizing such very considerable
emolument from cotton. The reciprocal advantages possessed by the
people who inhabit the northern and southern regions watered by the
Mississippi, are in nothing more real than in the facility with which
the latter can be supplied by the former, with bread stuff, meat, and
other articles of food.

In point of salubrity, if the parts adjacent to the Mississippi river
are excepted, the country from the Yazoo to the 31° N. lat. is very
favourably situated. The surface is dry and waving, little or no
low marsh}' land exists ; and the spring and well water excellent.
The inhabitants are found to enjoy as much health as upon any spot
on earth, in the same parallel of lat.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 121

The seasons are agreeable, the autumn and winter particularly.
Eut little of the rigours of a northern winter is experienced. We
know no place, where from September to April the weather is so uni-
formly pleasant. The undulating face of the country prevents the
roads from bacoming uncommonly difficult to pass after heavy rains.
Travelling is easy, and seldom long interrupted by floods.

Spring is, indeed, in all places near the Mississippi, south of the
thirty-filth degree of north latitude, less agreeable than winter. The
latter has the mildness of a northern autumn ; the former, to too much
of the heat of a southern summer, adds the inconvenience of frequent
and heavy rains.

In the northern and eastern states, there is no season answering
correctly to the winter of Georgia, Louisiana, Alabama, and Missis-
sippi. The air in the months of November, December, January,
February, and March, in the latter places, is generally mild. Sum-
mer, and the early part of autumn, are the seasons when health be-
comes precarious.

Perhaps after all that medical men have said upon the maladies of
mankind, and with all the multifarious drugs of the apothecary's shop,
that the road to health is plain and easily trod. In seasons of heat,
bilious complaints in their varied forms ; and in seasons of cold and
moisture, catarrh, asthma, consumption, and phthisic, are the scourges
of the human race. Which of those two lists are the most frightful,
it is difficult to determine ; the latter is, however, but little known in
the United States south of the thirty-fifth degree of north latitude.

Most men with whom we have conversed, who had the advantage
of residing many year? near Natchez, and who had previously removed
from the northern or eastern state ; and who of course had gained from
experience the means of forming a correct judgment, have almost uni-
formly decided in favour of a residence in the former place. It may
be replied to this, that views of interest would have much influence
in this preference; but a conviction so general upon the minds of
men of all professions and ages, must have a more solid basis than
mere temporary interest. It is found that the human frame is less
liable to lingering pain, and that life is more easily supported, where
the rigours of winter are hardly known. Relieved from much severe
labour, it ought not to excite surprise that men migrate from a colder
to a warmer residence. If the spirit of emigration in the United
States was not checked by the common, though unfounded belief, that
southern situations were less favourable to health than northern, a
very great change of local population would take place. As matters
and opinions are, the stream of migration is S. VV. The inhabitants
of the New-England states remove to Ohio; those of New-York,
New-Jersey, and Pennsylvania, to Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois ; those
of Maryland and Virginia, to Tennessee and Missouri ; and those of
the Carolinas and Georgia, to Mississippi, Louisiana, and Alabama.
Many exceptions to this course daily occur, but this is the usual
course ; and the consequence will be, that the great body of persons
who daily swell the population of the states of Mississippi and Louis-
iana, and the territory of Alabama, come from the two Carolinas and
Georgia.

m EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

It would be useless to designate particularly the counties in the sec-
lion of country we have been describing ; a general sameness pre-
vails. Some difference of climate exists between the northern and
southern part ; but not of sufficient extent to merit notice in a statis-
tical point of review. The same vegetables come to perfection in the
counties of Wilkinson and Warren, which occupy the extremes.

The three species of soil, Mississippi bottom, bluff, and pine
woods, are to be found in Claiborne and Jefferson. In Adams there
is little or no pine woods, as the pine ridge, though producing the
pine tree, has a soil very different from that found in pine woods, pro-
perly so called. Wilkinson possesses, towards the Mississippi, a soil
extremely similar to that of Adams; but in the interior, pine occurs.
Franklin being detached from the Mississippi, affords less fertile soil
in proportion to its extent than any preceding counties, having more
pine woods than either.

The whole of this section of the state of Mississippi, is amongst the
most valuable and productive in the United States in proportion to
its extent. Few spots in the world will admit a greater variety of
vegetable products ; there are none where the natural trees of the
forest offer a greater number of species. The list annexed to this
article, exhibits a part only of the most remarkable timber trees and
underwood. The neighbourhood of Natchez is peculiarly rich in its
botanical productions. Superadded to the species given in the list as
growing upon, and near the bluffs, is the variety offered by the bottoms
of the Mississippi. We have, however, in treating of Louisiana,
given in ample detail the trees most commonly found upon the rich
alluvion of the Mississippi, so that a further notice in this place
would be useless repetition.

The geological structure of this region presents some very striking
phenomena. The masses of breccia that open to the day at the bot-
tom of the bluffs, have been noticed. There can be no reasonable
doubt, but that this species of rock forms the basis of the whole coun-
try. Digging wells frequently exposes large masses of loose silicious
pebble and sand. Wells are seldom dug of sufficient depth to meet
the breccia. The stone itself is of very different degrees of connex-
ion ; it is in some instances capable of forming mill-stones ; but in
general its texture is loose, and the parts separate easily. The earth-
quake of 1812 was sensibly felt at Natchez, affording a strong evi-
dence that the mass of secondary rock found further to the north,
extends under the superstratum far beyond where it is ever visible.

On the west side of the Mississippi, the rapids at the west end of
Sicily island is the nearest place to the former river, where the schistus
sandstone has been discovered. The rock in Ouachitta is perfectly
similar to that found in Red, Calcasiu, and Sabine, and is the gray
sandstone of the fluetz formation of Werner. The loose pebble
and masses of sand in many instances form its incumbent strata, and
are always found in the vicinity and above the schist. East of the
Mississippi, there are many reasons to consider the interior structure
of earth the same as to the we.«t. It will be seen when treating of the
topography of the Alabama territory, that the southern part of that
country is founded upon schistus limestone.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 123

There is a remarkable difference in one respect, between countries
whose base is calcarious, from those resting upon argillaceous ma-
terials ; the latter are as noted for the quantity and excellence of
their springs of fresh water, as the former is for being deficient in
both respects. This distinction is not uniform, but it is very gene-
ral ; many striking example? could be cited. There are many places
in America of secondary formation, where the decumbent stratum is
carbonate of lime, where it is difficult or impossible to procure water,
either from springs or wells ; but there are few or none where the
stratified argillaceous schist prevails; but where fresh water abounds,
and if not flowing from fountains, can be procured from wells, without
any very great difficulty.

The S. E. section, comprising the counties of Amite, Pike, Law-
rence, Marion, Wayne, Greene, Hancock, and Jackson, have so
much resemblance to West Florida, that little can be added respect-
ing the former, that has not been anticipated when describing the lat-
ter country.

The S. E. section contains the only sea-coast embraced in the Mis-
sissippi. Except a very small extent east of Pearl, this sea-coast is
high, dry land ; the pine forest reaching the gulf of Mexico.

Three beautiful bays indent the shore — St. Louis, Biloxi, and Pas-
cagoula ; only the latter ever can be of any great consequence in a
commercial point of view.

The islands of Malheureux, Marianne, and Cat-Island, are in-
cluded in the bounds assigned to both the states of Louisiana and Mis-
sissippi. There must have been some oversight in framing the re-
spective acts, which marked the possessions of each state.

The islands are in themselves of no great consequence ; they are
mere banks of sand, decorated with sea myrtle and a few pine trees.
There are two good harbours contiguous to Cat-Island, but its position
will render them in a great measure useless to navigation, except as a
temporary shelter to vessels approaching the coast.

The chain of islands extending from the Rigolets to Mobile bay,
produces a very safe and commodious navigation between New Or-
leans and Mobile, for vessels of a draught not exceeding eight feet.
This commerce passing in front of the state of Mississippi, will be of
little benefit to its inhabitants, except those residing upon Pearl and
Pascagoula rivers.

The country included in the S. E. section is yet but thinly popu-
lated; and from the general aspect of the country, it may be safely
concluded, that the comparative numbers on the two sections will re-
main nearly as they are now. In addition to a great superiority of
soil, the N. W. section has many other advantages, that can never be
extended to that of the S. E.

Taking a comparative view of all the territory included in this
state, there are a few other states that possess jn equally favourable
position. The difference of soil and climate is the greatest, Georgia
excepted, that can be shown by any state in the Union. Fronting
on the Mississippi, and occupying the thoroughfare from New Orleans
to the northern states, the stale of Mississippi will ever be respecta-
ble beyond its mere nominal population.

124 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

When the Indian claims are extinguished, this state will possess
28,480,000 acres of land; some part of which equals any soil in the
world, and most of it capable of becoming the residence of an ac-
tive race of human beings. Upon the entire surface, cotton can be
produced in abundance as a staple ; whilst almost every plant neces-
sary to human subsistence can be produced in plenty. The climate
is temperate, and most part of the state elevated and salubrious. Few
places have formed a more permanent basis for lasting prosperity.
To secure the well being of her citizens, demands only a moderate
share of talents and virtue in her future legislators ; but the benefi-
cence of nature cannot be rendered abortive, without a high degree
of folly and cupidity in the administrators of her laws.

Respecting the agriculture of the state of Mississippi, little could
be added, not noticed under that head in the statistics of Louisiana.
The products of agricultural industry, that claim the attention of the
people of the two states, do not, rice and sugar excepted, differ es-
sentially.

Cotton.— Mr. Niles observes that * " This great staple has grown
up within a very few years. In 1791 we exported only 189,3161bs. ;
in 1792, 138,328lbs. ; in 1793, 487,600lbs. : ten years after, 1803,
we exported 41,105,623lbs. ; in 1807, 64 millions; in 1810, 93
millions; in 1815, 83 millions; and for the year ending with Sep-
tember 1816, nearly 81 millions, as follows: —

lbs. cts. valued at

Uplands, 72.046,790 at 27 ) , g 0Q

Sea islands, 9,900,326 at 47 $ 2^4>1Ub>uuu

lbs. 81,947,116

" We have seen an anonymous estimate of the whole crop of 18 16,
which gives us 320,000 bales, as the whole quantity raised, viz.

In Virginia, 2,000 bales.

North Carolina, 13,000

South Carolina, 120,000

Georgia, 110,000

Louisiana, Tennessee, } -„ n00

and Kentucky, $ '

320,000
Which are valued thus : —

290,000 bales upland at $75 22,050,000

300,00 Sea island 115 3,450,000

$25,500,000

" The bale is not a determined quantity ; but we are told that it may
be averaged at 320ibs. This estimate then would give us a product
of only 102,600,000lbs. The average of the four years export be-
fore the war, viz. for 1808, 1809, 1810 and 1811, was about 55 mi!-

* No. 18. Vol. XII. Niles' Register.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 123

lions; but in 1815 we exported &3, and in 1816, 82 millions. We
know that the cultivation of this commodity has been greatly extend-
ed ; and if we call 80 millions as the surplus quantity over the borne
consumption, the whole quantity raised can hardly be less than 120
or 130 millions, it having been estimated that our factories could con-
sume 29 millions, as they stood in 1815. These have somewhat
declined, perhaps, — but household manufactures, as before observ-
ed, have greatly increased ; and we shall put down the crop of last
year at 125 millions of pounds, of which 13 may have been sea
island.

" "Of Tobacco, we exported, in 1815, 85,339 hhds. and in 1816,
69,241 hhds. the last valued at #12,809,000, or an average of 185 dol-
lars per hbd. For the years 1808. 1809, 1810 and 1811, the aver-
age was somewhat more than 45.000 hhds. The cultivation was
declining for several years before the war, but has, since the peace,
been far more rapidly extending — and we may accept 70,000 hhds.
as the surplus quantity. The table before referred to, estimates the
whole crop of last year at 127,000 hhds — valued as follows :

45,000 Virginia,
30,000 Louisiana and Kentucky,
7,000 North Carolina,

7,500 South Carolina, >«*,000

jat$130|
J at 96/S,4>562>(

9o;

7,500 Georgia,
30,0 00 Maryland,

" This gives an average of only $116 per hhd — $71 less than the
treasury estimate of last year. But the price of the article has de-
creased ; and this may be a pretty fair estimate of the quantity pro-
duced. The export of manufactured tobacco is not worth taking into
the account.

" Sugar is becoming a very important item in our agriculture ; and
the time is close at hand, when it will nearly cease to be imoorted.
Large tracts of land are continually brought into the cultivation ot the
cane. Mr. Darby tells us there are 250,000 acres in Louisiana fit
to produce it. We have reason to believe there is a much greater
quantity than that; but 250,000 acres, worked by 83,333 hands, at
one to three acres, calculated to produce lOOOlbs. per acre, would
give us 250 millions of pounds! — a quantity that we should not know
what to do with. Besides, it succeeds well in Georgia, and the most
southerly parts of South Carolina. At present it is the most piofita-
ble crop of the planter — Mr. Darby estimates the product, per hand,
thus :

Sugar at 8 cents per lb. - - #240 per hand.

Cotton 15 .... 180

Indigo 1 00 - 140

Tobacco #10 per cwt. - - 107

Rice 6 cents per lb- - - 84

• This valuation is not at such a high rate, as that made at the treasury de-
partment; allowing the bales to be of 300lbs. weight each, as it is probable
they were rated at.

126 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

" We have no certain returns wbereby to calculate the quantity of
sugar and molasses made in the United States. In 1810, the marshals
returned 9,665,108 lbs. of maple sugar, and 9671 hhds. from the
cane, — together about 20 millions of pounds — with 3590 hhds. or
179,500 gallons of molasses. The quantity of maple sugar made
had not, probably, increased ; but it may be safe to say that Louisi-
ana now makes at leas! 30 millions from the cane.

"Rice; — the export last year was 137,848 tierces, valued at
3,555,000 dollars, 26 dollars per tierce, nearly. For the years 1809,
'10, '11. and '1 2, the annual export was about 115,000 tierces. .(The
estimate before referred to, gives the whole crop of 1816 as being
only 110,000 tierces, valued at 3.600.000 dollars. The quantity,
we think, cannot, be less than 150,000. But as its home consumption
comes in lieu of wheat, corn, and other-gram, we shall consider it as
already accounted for in the vegetable food we have supposed was
consumed. The cultivation of rice appears to be declining.

The only town in the state of Mississippi worthy particular notice
is Natchez.

NATCHEZ, in Adams county, stands upon the left or east bank of
the Mississippi, at 31° 33' N. lat. 14° 20' W. from Washington city.
The site of Natchez is high and commanding. The town is laid out
at right angles upon very uneven ground. Though upon a bluff ot the
Mississippi, the river cannot be seen from the town, owing to the ele-
vation of the intervening hill. The waters that drain from Natchez,
flow into St. Catherine creek. It is difficult to ascertain the present
population of Natchez ; perhaps 2500 would not be far from the
number of person? now residing in that city. This town is well situ-
ated for a commercial depot ; having a fertile well cultivated country
in its rear. Many very wealthy merchants are established in Natchez,
who carry on the cotton business extensively.

There are no public edifices of any particular consequence in
Natchez. Most of the private buildings are constructed of wood,
though many elegant brick houses have been erected within the last
twelve years.

WASHINGTON, about six miles east from Natchez, also in Adams
county, has been for fifteen years past the seat of government for the
Mississippi territory. This town contains at this time, perhaps, 1000
inhabitants. It stands on the bank of St. Catherine creek, in a heaithy
pleasant situation, amid the most wealthy and best peopled settle-
ments in the state. Washington has many allurements as a summer
residence over any town near the Mississippi river, south of Tennes-
see ; it is placed in a well cultivated neighbourhood, the water is ex-
cellent, the adjacent country is agreeably diversified with hill and
dale, and no stagnant waters in its vicinity.

The state of society does not differ materially in Natchez and
Washington There is much in both of that urbanity that marks the
people of the southern states, and strangers meet an unreserve found
in every place wl .re men have much intercourse with each other.

Monticello on Pearl river, in Lawrence county, is the present seat
of government for the state of Mississippi. This town stands at 31°
33' N. lat. 13° W. Ion. from Washington. It is of very recent date..

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 127

and cannot contain any considerable number of persons. As respects
that part of the state in which the Indian title is extinct, the position
of Monticello is nearly central; and being in a high, dry, healthy si-
tuation, this town is well chosen as the seat of legislation for the new
state.

The other towns in the state are yet small, and of no other conse-
quence than being the seats of justice for the respective counties. No
city of any great extent can easily rise in the vicinity of Nesv Orleans;
its concentrated advantages will allure population and commercial ca-
pital into its own bosom, and prevent the increase of other cities with-
in the sphere of its attraction. Sohjp place on, or near the Blobile
river, will, no doubt, become of considerable importance ; but a ra-
tio will exist between the cities situated on the respective streams on
a similar scale with that between the Mississippi and the Mobile ri-
vers.

When the state of Mississippi becomes peopled in all its extent, the
seat of legislation must be placed at some point on the dividing waters
of Pearl, Pascagoula, and Big black rivers.

Preserving the seat of legislation in the large commercial towns,
seems to have been tacitly laid aside by the people of the United
States in many instances. How far the custom of placing their legis-
latures as near as possible to the geographical centre of the respec-
tive states, is founded upon individual convenience, it is difficult to
determine. Whatever may be the benefit of thus removing the cen-
tre of government with that of the population, a serious suit of evils
arises, that can scarcely be counterbalanced by any temporary ad-
vantage. The growth of towns of this description is retarded, from
want of confidence in the permanency of the only source of their
prosperity.

In many instances, the very men who vote the seat of government
a kw miles nearer home, have exposed themselves to more expense
and less comfort, without having in any manner gained benefit from
the change.

The most serious, however, of all the mischiefs attending this va-
cillation of legislation, is in the check it gives to the advance of in-
telligence where it is most wanted. Schools, colleges, libraries, and
printing offices, are the depositories and marts of human knowledge.
They either never rise, or languish and fall to ruin, where their means
of augmentation and support are withdrawn, or even in annual danger
of removal.

The seat of legislation ought, like legislation itself, to rest solid and
unmoveable, except for the most urgent reasons.

Those who consider a large city as the exclusive focus of intrigue,
know little of human nature. Those who, in order to avoid the influ-
ence of superior information, or to save one or two days travelling,
carry their archives from cities to villages, exhibit a very defective
specimen of their judgment in the management of human affairs.

128 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

THE ALABAMA TERRITORY is formed out of the easl
part of the late Mississippi territory, and occupies almost all the val-
ley of the Mobile and its tributary streams, and part of that of Ten-
nessee and Poscagoula.

This territory was created by the following act of congress :

AN ACT

To establish a separate territorial government for the eastempart of
the A'lississippi Territory.

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the
United States of America, in Congress assembled, that all that part
of the Mississippi territory, which lies within the following bounda-
ries, to wit : beginning at the point where the line of the thirty-first
degree of north latitude intersects the Perdido river ; thence east to
the western boundary line of the state of Georgia ; thence along said
line to the southern boundary line of the state of Tennessee ; thence
west along said boundary line to the Tennessee river ; thence up the
same to the mouth of Bear creek ; thence by a direct line to the north-
west corner of Washington county ; thence due south to the gulf of
Mexico ; thence eastwardly, including all the island within six leagues
of the shore to the Perdido river, and thence up the same to the place
of beginning, shall, for the purpose of a temporary government, con-
stitute a separate territory, and be called" Alabama."

Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That all offices which may
exist, and all laws which may be in force, in said territory, within the
boundaries above described, at the time this act shall go into effect,
shall continue to exist, and be in force, until otherwise provided by
law. And the president of the United States shall have power to ap-
point a governor and secretary for the said Alabama territory, who
shall respectively exercise the same power, perform the same duties,
and receive for their services, the same compensation as are provided
for the governor and secretary of the Mississippi territory .^ Provided,
that the appointment of said governor and secretary, shall be submit-
ted to the senate for their advice and consent, at the next session of
congress.

Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That there shall be appointed an
additional judge of the Mississippi territory, who shall reside in the
eastern part thereof, and receive the same compensation as the other
judges, and that the judge appointed by virtue of an act, passed the
twenty-seventh day of March, one thousand eight hundred and four,
for the appointment of an additional judge for the Mississippi territo-
ry, together with tfcs judge appointed by Madison county, and the
judge to be appointed by virtue of this act, shall possess and exercise
'exclusive original jurisdiction in the superior courts of Washington,
Baldwin, Clarke, Monroe, Montgomery, Wayne, Greene, Jackson,
Mobile, Madison, and such new counties as may be formed out of
them, and shall arrange the same among themselves from time to time :
Provided, that no judge shall sit more than twice in succession in the
same court, and that the other judges of the Mississippi territory shall

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 129

exercise, as heretofore authorized by an act of Congress, or of the
territorial legislature, exclusive jurisdiction in the superior courts of
the other counties. That a general court, to be composed of the
judge appointed by virtue of the act of the twenty-seventh of March,
one thousand eight hundred and four, the judge appointed for Madison
county, and the judge to be appointed by virtue of this act, or any
two of them, shall be holden at St. Stephen's, commencing on the first
Mondays of January and July, annually ; who shall have the same
powers of granting writs of error to the superior courts of the coun-
ties mentioned in this section, or which shall hereafter be formed in
the eastern division of the territory, which was given by the act for
the appointment of an additional judge, passed the year one thousand
eight hundred and four, to the superior court of Adams district, and
which shall possess exclusively of the courts of the several counties,
the federal jurisdiction given to the superior courts of the territories,
by an act passed the third day of March, one thousand eight hundred
and five, entitled, " An act to extend jurisdiction in certain cases to
the territorial courts."

Sec. 4. And be it further enacted, That the governor to be ap-
pointed by the authority of this act, shall, immediately after entering
into office, convene at the town of St. Stephens, such of the members
of the legislative council, and house of representatives of the Mississip-
pi territory, as may then be the representatives from the several
counties within the limits of the territory to be established by this
act ; and the said members shall constitute the legislative council and
house of representatives for the aforesaid Alabama territory, whose
powers, in relation to the said territory, shall be until the expiration
of the term for which they shall have been chosen, or until congress
shall otherwise provide, the same in all respects as are now possessed
by the legislative ^council and house of representatives of the Missis-
sippi territory ; and the said legislative council and house of repre-
sentatives of the Alabama territory, so formed, shall have power to
nominate six persons to the president of the United States, three of
whom shall be selected by him for members of the legislative coun-
cil, in addition to the number which the said territory may possess
agreeable to the foregoing provision of this section. The said legis-
lative council and house of representatives shall have power to elect
a delegate to congress, who shall, in all respects, possess the same
rights and immunities as other delegates from territories of the United
States.

Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That this act shall commence
and be in force so soon as the convention, the appointment whereof
has been authorized by congress at their present session, for that part
of the Mississippi territory lying west of the territory herein described;
of which act of convention, the governor of the Mississippi territory
for the time being, shall give immediate notice to the president of the
United States, who shall thereupon forthwith proceed to the execu-
tion of the powers vested in him by the second section of this act ;
but in case said convention shall fail to form a constitution and state
government as aforesaid, then this act shall become null and void, ex-

tJO EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

cepl so far as relates to the third section thereof, which shall take
effect and be in force from and after the passage of this act.

Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That all persons who shall be
in office, within the territory hereby established, when the said con-
vention shall have formed a constitution and state government as
aforesaid, shall continue to hold and exercise their offices, in all re-
spects as if this act had never been made ; and the governor and se-
cretary of the Mississippi territory, for the time, shall continue to
exercise the duties of their respective offices, in relation to the terri-
tory hereby established, until a governor and secretary shall be ap-
pointed therefor, iti pursuance of this act.

Sec. 7. And be it further enacted, That all judicial process in the
said territory of Alabama, shall be issued and bear test as heretofore ;
nor shall any suit be discontinued, or the proceedings of any cause
stayed, or in any wise affected by any thing contained in this act, or
in the act, entitled " An act to enable the people of the western part
of the Mississippi territory to form a constitution and state govern-
ment, and for the admission of such state into the Union on an equal
footing with the original states."

Sec. 8. And be it further enacted, That the town of St. Stephens
shall be the seat of government for the said Alabama territory, until it
shall be otherwise ordered by the legislature thereof.

Sec. 9. And be it further enacted, That whatever balance may
remain in the treasury of the Mississippi territory, at the time when
the convention authorized to form a constitution and slate government
for the same, shall be divided between the new state and territory,
according to the amount which may have been paid into said treasu-
ry, from the counties lying within the limits of such stMe and territo-
ry respectively.

Approved, March 31, 1817.

Ths Alabama territory lies between 30° 12' and 35° N. lat. Its
greates' length from Dauphin Island to the southern line of Tennessee
is three hundred and thirty miles ; its greatest breadth about one
hundred and fifty miles ; the whole extending over 45,500 square
miles, or 29,120,000 acres.

The Alabama possesses a very great diversity of soil, climate, and
natural, vegetable, and mineral productions. Occupying the valley
of the Mobiie and its tributary streams, together with a fine body of
land upon both banks of the Tennessee river, its position in an agri-
cultural and commercial point of view is extremely advantageous.
From the circi,nslance of so n uch of the area included within its
limits, having been purchased from the savages at the time of the
creation of this territory, its political birth is extremely auspicious.
And by an accumulation of benefits, the moment is very tavourable
for an inptant and great influx of inhabitants.

Ten years can scarcely elapse, before the Alabama must assume
her rank amongst the states of the American Union, and close the
column of republics from the Canadian lakes to the gulf of Mexico,
and from the Atlantic ocean to the Sabine river.

Having the finest river to its length in all North America, and exten

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. iai

sive superficies of excellent soil, the Alabama presents a most desira-
ble fieid for youthful enterprise.

The counties in the Alabama territory, are. Madison, Elk, Blount,
Shelby, Clarke, Washington, Baldwin, Jackson, Mobile, Montgomery,
Monroe.

Of the above cb'unlies, only Mobile, Montgomery, Monroe, Bald-
win, Washington, Clarke, and part of Shelby and Jackson, are inclu-
ded in our map. Jackson county is cut by the provisional division
line between the state of Mississippi and Alabama territory. Shelby,
lying north of Clarke, extends to the highlands between the Tennes-
see and Tombigbee rivers. Mobile occupies both banks of the river
of that name, being part of the late West Florida.

The population is no doubt every where in these counties augment-
ed since 1810; but to Clarke, Monroe, Shelby, and Montgomery,
almost all the inhabitants have removed within the last six years, and
into the three latter, since 1815.

It would be useless to extend our geographical notice beyond the
limits of our own map. The N. E. pnrt of the territory is yet in the
Indian country ; of course neither well known or interesting at this
time.

The following sketch of this country appeared in the public prints
a short time past. It appears to give more ample and correct infor-
mation of the country upon the Coosa, Tallapoosa, and Alabama, than
any account yet made public. We never extended our own personal
observations east of the Tombigbee. We have considered this de-
scription superior in point of authenticity to any other information
we could procure. It is, therefore, inserted entire, with our acknow-
ledgments to the author.

" At the present period, when the spirit of emigration to the lately
ceded territory prevails to a very great extent, a correct topographical
description of any part of it cannot fail to be acceptable.

" Having been engaged for a considerable time past in surveying
public land in several parts of the late Creek cession, the account
here offered is chiefly the result of actual observation, aided by infor-
mation derived from other surveyors.

" The Alabama is known to be the principal river running through
this country. Its general course from its head, or junction of Coosa
and Tallapoosa, to its junction with the Tombigbee river, is nearly
southwest ; but in its course thither, it makes one remarkable bend
and two others of less note.

" From the junction of Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers to the mouth
of Cahaba, a distance by land of about 60 miles, the river riras but a
little south of west — thence to the Alabama heights, or Fort Clai-
borne, by land of 60 or 70 miles, its course is but a little west of
south — thence to its junction with Tombigbee, about 60 miles tur-
ther, its course is nearly southwest. From this point to Mobile, dis-
tant about 40 miles, the river runs ne-uly south again, Fort Clai-
borne is at the head of schooner navigation. Lirge boats ascend
from thence up to Fort Jackson, by the Coosa river The distance
to Fort Jackson, by the Tallapoosa river, is five miits less than by

132 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the Coosa, and the navigation throughout the winter and spring U
good. In dry seasons, however, there is not sufficient depth of wa-
ter for the Alabama boats. The Coosa river has a fine deep channel
from its mouth, three miles by land below Fort Jackson, up to We-
tumpka, or the Great Shoals, five miles above the fort. Here, in the
present state of things, we may reckon the head of navigation on
this river From the falls, this river is the Indian boundary up to
the mouth of Will's creek, 120 miles, or thereabouts.

" The Tallapoosa is navigable, except in dry seasons, up to the
Great Falls, a few miles above Tookabatchtf, and about 35 miles
above Fort Jackson. From the falls down to Fort Jackson, the
general course of the Tallapoosa is nearly west.

'v The waters in these rivers, particularly the Tallapoosa and Ala-
bama, are" subject to remarkable periodical elevation and depres-
sions, owing entirely to this circumstance : — Many of their tributary
streams, originating in, and passing through a country founded on a
bed of lime stones, are large and respectable water-courses in the
winter and spring, but in the fall months become perfectly dry. In
the Alabama and Coosa rivers, however, there is always a sufficient
depth of water for boating.

" Proceeding southeastvvardly along the boundary line, from the
mouth of Lime creek, and up the same towards Chatahoocha, at the
distance of about 40 miles from Tallapoosa, we come to the ridge sepa-
rating the waters of Tallapoosa and Alabama, from those of Cone-
cuh and Escambia. This ridge proceeds westwardly in a direction
nearly parallel with the rivers Tallapoosa and Alabama ; but bend-
ing less to the south, it approximates very fast towards the river be-
low its bend, near the mouth of Cahaba, and becoming less elevated
and distinct, it is finally cui off by the grand sweep of the river along
the Alabama heights.

'•'This tract of country, bounded en the north and west by the
river, on the east by the boundary line, and on the south by the
ridge, is probably the largest body of good land to be found any where
within the limits of the treaty, south of Tennessee river. It com-
prehends an area of sixty townships, or about 2000 square miles, a
considerable portion of which is of the first quality, and there is but
little of it that will fall below the rank of good second quality. About
one half of the townships now offered for safe lies in this district.

" The river cane bottom land, we suppose to be equal in fertility
to any on the continent, and may average in width a half, or three
quarters of a mile, the river winding through it in a serpentine course,
and leaving the cane land sometimes on this side and sometimes on
that. The outside of the swamp joining the high land, as on most
rivers, is low, wet, and cut up with ponds and lagoons. Next to the
river swamp, and elevated above it by a bluff of from 10 to 15 feet
in height, we enter upon an extensive body of level rich land, of fine
black, or chocolate coloured soil. The principal growth is hickory :
black oak, post oak, dogwood, and poplar, are also common, but pine
timber is rather scarce. This portion of land is interspersed, more
or less, with reed marshes, out of which issues constant running wa-
tgr; and also in many places with flat, wet weather ponds, holding

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 133

water in winter, and becoming dry in summer. After this, comes in
the prairies. These are wide spreading plains, of a level, or gently
waving land, without timber, clothed in grass, herbage, and flowers,
insulated by narrow skirts of rich interval wood land ; and exhibiting,
in the month of May, the most enchanting scenery imaginable. The
soil is generally of a fine black rich cast, and has the appearance of
great fertility. Should they prove to be as productive as the soil
promises, they will be of great value, as the expense and labour of
clearing land will here be saved ; and the soil being of such a quali-
ty as will not wash away, the land must be very durable. These
prairies extend nearly, or quite to the ridge; and as the country is
open, dry, and airy, it promises to be healthy. The only objection
to this part of the country seems to be the want of water. This in-
convenience, however, may probably be removed to a considerable
extent by digging of wells. This objection applies to most of the
tract within the limits mentioned, except the land immediately on the
river, and distant from it from one to three milesr In this range, there
is an abundance of cool and pleasant spring water, issuing from the
bluffs and reedy heads already mentioned. Several large creeks wa-
ter this district, which will afford good winter navigation for small
boats, of sufficient size to transport the produce of the incumbent
farms to the river. The principal of these are the Catoma, Pincohna,
Pohlahla, and Big swamp creek, all of which afford extensive bot-
toms of rich cane brake and beech swamp. Families living on and
near the river, except in select places, will be subject to intermit-
tent and bilious fevers ; but they have hitherto appeared to be of £
mild type.

" After passing the ridge we enter into a country of very different
character and features from that just noticed. It is generally piue
land, intersected with innumerable creeks, rivulets and branches,
running southwardly into the bay of Escambia. The head waters of
Conecuh, which is the principal river emptying into the bay, spread
out over a large extent of country. The creeks and branches have
wide swamps, and are in general too low and wet for cultivation.
They abound in the finest timber, particularly white oak of a supe-
rior growth, swamp red oak of uncommon size and beauty, beech, ma-
ple, poplar, gum and cypress. The undergrowth is reed and cane,
palmettos, rattan, grape vines, and china brier. These swamps afford
the finest stock range imaginable, particularly for hogs ; as besides the
immense quantity of oak and beech mast, there is a great variety and
plenty of ground nuts and roots, easily attainable in the soft soil or mud
of those swamps.

'• On the margins of the creeks there are generally found strips of
good land from a quarter to a half mile wide. In places it is very
rich, bearing oak, hickory, ash, and sometimes walnut trees. Next
to this is very often found a skirt of rich pine land, dark mulatto soil,
with hickory, buckeye, and shrubbery characteristic of rich land.

" From this kind of land there is a gradual declension to the poor pine
woods. On the heads of the numerous branches of Gonecuh approach-
ing the ridge, there is a skirt of oak and hickory land five or six miles^

134 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

running parallel with the ridge. The soil is mostly of a free, soft,
gray quality ; sometimes it is found rich, strong and red, clothed with an
agreeable mixture of oak, hickory, pine, poplar, ash, chestnut, and
dogwood, &c.

" The Sepulgas, Burnt-corn, and Murder creek, lying more to the
west, it is said, afford larger bodies of good land than Conecuh : there
are none, however, so far as we can learn, very extensive on any of
these waters.

" Of the extent of the navigation of Conecuh, we have no satis-
factory account. The surveyors, however, who ran the parallel
townships, from the Spanish line progressively to the north or up the
river, found it no where passable with tbeir pack-horses within fifty
miles of the Spanish line, without swimming their horses and construct-
ing rafts for their packs. They report it to be a fine deep channel,
with a slow eddy current. At ttie distance of about fifty or sixty
miles above the line of demarkation, it divides into two large creeks,
and here is probably the head of boat navigation. This whole tract
of country is abundantly supplied with perennial springs of excellent
water. Your approach to the water is always announced by the wide
spreading reed brakes, which uniformly cover the wet bottoms of all
the branches, and afford an almost inexhaustible range for cattle.

*' No country affords a better prospect of health. From the nature
of the soil, however, the population must be thin.

" Of the mineral productions of this country, the most remarkable
is the large quantity of stone, having the appearance of volcanic la-
va, lying in broken fragments, covering the tops and sides of many of
the hills composing the ridge, exhibiting evident marks of having once
been in a state of fusion. There are also several places on the head
branches of the Conecuh, where there are indications of iron ore in
considerable quantities, and judging of it from his weight and ferru-
ginous aspect, it is probably rich. »•

" Among the small prairies in the western extremity of their range,
there are inexhaustible quarries of limestone or solid blocks of white
hard calcarious rock. By burning a piece of this stone in a black-
smith's forge, and slaking it, we found it to effervesce rapidly, and
making strong and beautiful lime. Amongst this limestone there are
also found many testaceous petrifactions,* particularly the oyster,
clam, and cockle shells, some of which are remarkably large, retaining
their original form, and exhibiting, on their outside, all the lines and
uitches of the shell in its natural state, and on the inside almost as
perfect a polish as when the shell was first opened.

" These beds of limestone (c irbonate of lime,) are great natural
curiosities, whether they are considered in regard to their origin, or
the process by which these substances have been changed from their
original texture to their present state of petrifaction ; and wljile
they afford a rich subject for speculation for the naturalist and phi-

■ This is the same kind of recent limestone found in all the valley of the
Mississippi. It forms the superstratum at the falls of Ohio. These beds of lime-
stone frequently alternate with the flcetz sandstone : in fact, the two reebs ar»
•1 a similar formation, but differ in their component parts.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 1$5

losopber, they also supply the mechanic with an excellent material
in masonry and architecture.

" Of the lands lying to the north and west of the Alabama and
Coosa rivers, but little has been surveyed, and consequently but lit-
tle of them is known : an aclual survey of this country, however,
will soon be made, when its topographical character will be ascer-
tained.

** With respect to that part of the ceded lands which falls within
the limits of Georgia, we have no authentic information, but what is
derived from the survey of its boundaries ; and even here we are de-
ficient in part, not having the traverse of the Chatahooche river,
which is the western boundary of this tract, from the mouth of Sum-
mochecola to the mouth of Flint river. The estimated distance,
however, between these two points is 60 miles ; and the course near-
ly south. Taking this at present, for the fact, we have the land in
the form of a trapezium, whose average length from east to west is
about one hundred and eighty miles, and its average breadth from
north to south about sixty miles. These dimensions will give a
product of 11,900 square miles, or 7,616,000 acres. Judging of the
interior of the country from what has been seen on its boundaries, and
the roads passing through it, except what lies between Flint river
and Chatahooche, all the rest could not be sold for what it would
cost the state to survey it. What lies between the Flint and Chata-
hooche rivers, however, deserves more attention. In order to form
some estimate of the quantity of land comprehended in this district,
we must ascertain as nearly as practicable its dimensions. The dis-
tance from the mouth of Summochicola to the mouth of Flint river
we have supposed to be sixty miles, course nearly south. From the
mouth of Summochicola, on the boundary line to Flint river, the dis-
tance is ascertained to be sixty miles and six perches east. Thus
we have two sides of the tract, sixty miles each, intersected nearly
at right angles.

"Flint river makes a large curve eastwardly or outwardly. This
is inferred from its relative position with the Chatahooche at three
several points above. On the Oakfuske trail, the distance across from
Flint river to the Chatahooche, is about thirty miles. On the
Federal road running nearly west, and thirty or forty miles lower
down, the distance across is fifty-seven miles. On the boundary line,
sixty or seventy miles below the road, it is sixty across. There must
then be a considerable bend in the river somewhere below the line.
This bend is probably at the limestone bluff, twenty or thirty below
the line, as it is represented in Mr. Melish's late improved map of the
United States.

" From Chatahooche on the line to Flint river, there is about a
third of the distance good land. In one place, particularly, between
Herod's creek and Kitchaphone, (a large creek,) a distance of seven-
teen miles, there is a body of oak and hickory land of a good second
quality, finely timbered, and lying sufficiently level, extending
without a break, from Heron's crtek, to within a mile of the large
creek Kitchaphone, a distance of sixteen miles. In this land we
found no water crossing tbe line between the two creeks. Water was
found, however, on the souih aide of the line. Thence to Fjint riveF

136 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the land is generally poor, except about half a mile on the river,
which is a fine, soft, gray land, well timbered, and near the river, of
a rich soil.

" Between the two rivers we cross five large creeks, each of which
affords more or less good land, and on one or two of them (Kitcha-
phone and Amakulla) there is a prospect of good mill seats.

" Proceeding from the line down towards the point, I am told the
proportion of good land increases ; but be the proportion of good land
more or less, as it is the only part of the whole tract received from
the general government that will afford any revenue, it would be well
for the state to make some disposition of it, and bring the funds thence
arising into operation. W. ROBERTS."

There is an elongation of the Alabama territory south of the 31*
}J. lat. and lying between the east boundary line of the state of Mis-
sissippi and the Perdido river. This tract covers about 3850 square
miles, including Mobile bay, and the islands Dauphin, Massacre, Pe-
tititbois, together with the expanse of water between the islands and
the main land. This tract is formed out of a part of West Florida, and
is of more importance from its position, than from either its extent or
productions.

Mobile bay is by far the most commodious entrance to the interior
of the country that exists within the limits of the United States upon
the gulf of Mexico. A long point of low sand-bar projects from the
eastward, and comes within less than three miles of Dauphin island;
this island is about five miles long, of a triangular form ; it is low,
sandy, and barren. There are two entrances into Mobile bay ; the
main pass between Dauphin island and Mobile point, and pass au Heron,
between Dauphin island and the main shore. The main pass is nar-
row and circular, winding round Mobile point, and being close on
shore, forces vessels to pass within half gun shot of the point. The
intermediate space between the pass and the east point of Dauphin
island is shallow. At high tides, eighteen feet water is found on the
bar. The pass au Heron or inside passage has only six feet on its
bar, but affords sufficient depth for schooners and other smaller vessels
trading between Mobile river and New Orleans.

MOBILE town, and Fort Cond6, stands on the west side, at the
head of the bay ; the site is elevated fifteen or twenty feet above tide
water, and is dry and solid. The approach to Mobile is rendered in
some measure difficult, from a low grassy island lying opposite the
town. There is a good shelter for vessels within the island, and depth
of water to permit lying near the bank.

It is doubtful whether, as a commercial depot, the site of Mobile
is well chosen ; the country in its rear is, for a considerable distance,
barren. The Teusaw, or eastern branch of Mobile river, is deeper
and wider than the western, and, perhaps, more suitable to have on its
banks the trading mart of this noble stream.

All the surface drained by the Tombigbee, Black Warrior, Alaba-
ma, Coosa, Tallapoosa, and Cahaba, exceeds 40,000 square miles,
26,000,000 acres. Some place near the head of Mobile bay must
become an emporium for the commerce of this wide region.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 137

Fort Sfoddert is situated on the west bank of the Alabama : it is a
place of little note.

FORT ST. STEVENS, the seat of government for Alabama terri-
tory, stands on the west bank of Tombigbee, at the head of schooner
navigation ; is a very thriving town, and will, no doubt, increase ra-
pidly in extent and commercial importance.

HUNTSVILLE, in Madison county, is a thriving village, seated
amid a wealthy and industrious settlement.

The other towns or villages of Alabama territory are yet in their
infancy ; nothing can be anticipated respecting their future progress.

MISSOURI TERRITORY. This territory, in its most extended
sense, includes all of Louisiana not comprised within the limits of the
state of Louisiana ;* but as only a very small part of this immense re-
gion is yet purchased from the native savages, we will, in this work,
notice only those parts to which the settlements of the whites are ex-
tended.

If the northwestern limit of the state of Louisiana is supposed to be
continued north, it would intersect the Missouri fifteen or twenty
miles below the mouth of the Kansas river, at 39° 10' N. lat. 16° 55'
W. Ion. from Washington city. This line would leave to the east-
ward all establishments yet made by the people of the United States
in the Missouri territory, except upon the banks of the Missouri
and Mississippi rivers. Assuming the foregoing line as the west bounda-
ry of the settled part of Missouri territory, it would be bounded
thus : on the north, by the 40° N. lat. ; N. E. S. E. and E. by
the Mississippi river ; and south by the state of Louisiana,

Statistical Table.

Popul

ationin 1810.

Chief town?,

District of Arkansas,

874

Sf. Francis,

188

New Madrid,

3,103'

New Madrid.

Cape Girardeau,

3,888

Girardeau.

St. Genevieve,

4,620

St. Genevieve,

St. Louis,

5,667

St. Louis.

St. Charles,

3,505

St. Charles.

20,845

Of this region, 82,600 square miles lie south, and about 16,000
north of the Missouri river; the entire area spreading over 98,600
square miles. Nature has divided the Missouri territory! into two
very distinct portions, but unequal superficies. A ridge of hills leaves
the Mississippi river within a short distance above the mouth of
Ohio; and extending southwest, divides the waters that flow south
into the St. Francis and White rivers from those whose courses are di-
rected northeast of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. The southern
section is the most extensive, and contains at least as great a portion
of good land as the northern. The former is watered by the streams

* See page 3.

t When the Missouri territory is named in this treatise, the part defined in the
text is to be understood.

138 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

of Red, Ouachiffa, Arkansaw, White, Mississippi, and St. Francis ',
the latter by the 0*age, Missouri, Merrimack, and Mississippi
rivers.

The Ret! river merely touches the Missouri territory, and waters so
small a part of its surface,that it can add but little to the topographical
leatures of the country. The Ouachitta has been described.*

The Jirkansow is, after the Missouri, the longest, and in some sea-
sons the largest branch of the Mississippi | This great river rises
above 41° north lat. and 33° west Ion. from Washington city ; and
enters the Mississippi at 34° north lat. and 14° west Ion.; conse-
quently flows through seven degrees of latitude, and nineteen ©f lon-
gitude, or upwards of eleven hundred mile* in a direct course, and
about one and a half that distance, following the stream. The Arkan-
saw greatly exceeds in length either the Mississippi proper, or Ohio.
That part of Ark ansaw that traverses the Missouri territory is skirted,
in great part, by extensive prairies. Spurs of the Masserne mountains
often reach the river. It may be remarked as singular, that to the
extent of upwards of three hundred milts in the lower part of the Ar-
kansaw. its valley is confined merely to the stream of the river ; the
waters of the Ouachitta on one side, and White river on the other,
rising almost from the very margin of the Arkansaw.

The land upon the Arkansaw, in the Missouri territory, is in great
part alluvial ; and where not subject to overflow, excellent. .

The timber corresponds nearly to that of the state of Mississippi
in similar relative situations.

White river may be considered, as far as productive soil is concern-
ed.one of the principal streams of the Missouri territory. This river is
formed by the junction of Black river, and White river properly so
called, and falls into the Mississippi thirty miles above the Arkansaw.
Without estimating the particular bends, the White river is about four
hundred miles in length, following the main stream, and also four hun-
dred by the valley of the Black river.

The region watered by White river appears to be composed of im-
mense strata of limestone and marble ; the decomposition of which pro-
duces a most fertile soil. Some prairies exist on the White river,
but are neither \ery fertile nor extensive. A very great similarity
exists between the White river lands and tnose of Kentucky, Indiana^
and West Tennessee.

The lands are well adapted to the culture of cotton: that plant,
however, is here more liable to be destroyed by frost than in the
states of Louisiana and Mississippi; but owing to more elevated shel-
ter, less so than in a similar latitude in Tennessee.

With very little exception, the White river lands are public proper-
ty. A considerable number of families are settled on the various
branches of this stream, but mostly on public land

Until the date of the cession of Louisiana to the United States,
While river appears to have been but very imperfectly known. The
French and Spanish settlements seldom extended far from the margin
of the rivers, and were scattered, weak, and defenceless. Those na-
tions appear to have had a much better knowledge of the manner

•t See page 8S aud sequel. t See table, page 14.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 13$

m conciliating the savages than the English possess, or than has been
evinced by the government of the United States. No such dispersed
set'lements of English or Americans, as the French and Spanish posts
on the Mississippi and its tributaries, could have existed a century
amongst powerful tribes of savages.

The country watered by White river, has not been visited by
any person whose observations have been published, or who was com-
petent to give a correct detail of its metallic productions Like other
regions where flcetz* limestone forms the greater part of the substra-
tum, coal may be very confidently expected to exist. Salt and gyp-
sum must also form part of the fossil materials of this country.

Its greatest natural wealth, however, is its extremely productive
soil and moderate climate. In every respect, in point of agricultural
commercial, and political advantages, this is a place of great, and we
anticipate, not delusive promise.

St. Frauds' river rises a bout one hundred miles northwest of the mouth
of Ohio; its general course is nearly south, receiving several streams
from the east; one of which appears to have been an ancient outlet
of the Mississippi. The country on St. Francis is not either so fertile
or extensive as that watered by White river. The entire length of
the former is about two hundred miles, and falls into the Mississippi
ninety-two miles above the mouth of Arkansaw.

The intermediate country between the White and St. Francis
rivers is low overflowed land for a distance of upwards of one hun-
dred miles above their mouths. The same remark is applicable to
the lands between the St. Francis and Mississippi.

Upon the margin of the Mississippi, in this part of the Missouri ter-
ritory, the soil is similar to that found to border that stream from the
mouth of Ohio to within forty miles of the gulf of Mexico.

Osage river, rises in the same ridges with the main stream of the
grand river of Arkansaw, and flowing northeast about four hundred
miles iti a direct course, enters the territory of Missouri, through
which it flows two hundred and fifty miles, and enters the Mississippi
at 39° 40' north lat and 91° 50' west Ion. from Washington city.

Though contiguous to the country watered by While river, the cli-
mate on the Osage is sensibly colder. As soon as the dividing ridge
between those two streams is passed, a change in vegetation and the
seasons is apparent. Here, for the first place, from the gulf ol Mexico,
appears to commence a region in every respect congenial to thegrowth
of wheat, rye, and other small grain. Though these grapes will grow
to the southward of this latitude, they are evidently out of the situa-
tion most suitable to the perfect developement of their farina ; and ex-
cept in positions where elevation compensates tropical proximity,
they expend in stalk, what is lost in the seed. It has been remarked
in this treatise, that it is doubtful whether the apple and grape will
come to perfection in the same place ;j and the same remark may be
applied to wheat and rice, and extended perhaps to wheat and cot-
ton. Nature is bountiful, but seldom prodigal of her gifts to any one

* Flcetz, or flatt a terra used by Werner, to designate rocks lying in a hori-
zontal position, in contradistinction to those that are more or less inclined.
i See page 2S, note.

14u EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

spot. The same place which is remarkable for the production in
great quantity and perfection of any one article necessary to human
comfort, is commonly as remarkable for the entire want of many
others. Ought we to seek farther for the origin of commerce ?

The country watered by the Osage river is generally prairie ; some
spots are extremely fertile ; but from the united testimony ot all per-
sons who have visited this region, it is generally poor, gravelly, and
badly watered. The same remark may be extended to the northern
parts, drained by the White river waters.

West of the line of demarkation, between the land sold by the Osage
Indians, and that still possessed by that tribe, the country is very im-
perfectly known. The notes given by Mr. Brown, who ran the Osage
line,* and that inserted in Melish's map, from the information derived
from Blr. Louis Bringier,t there is an entire discordance. The notes
of Mr. Brown deserve infinitely more respect than Bringier's conjec-
tures.

The arable soil of North America experiences a total change about
two hundred miles from the Mississippi river. Beyond that limit an
extensive desert commences, which extends to the Pacific ocean.
Though this vast region is not an extended uninterrupted expanse of
unproductive land, yet the greatest part of the distance is prairie, de-
void of timber or a hard gravelly soil. The rivers are remarkable for
their great length and little water. No lakes of any note are found ;
and, in seasons of dry weather, an extreme want of water is experien-
ced by all persons who traverse this uninviting waste.

The banks of the Missouri are, like those of the Mississippi, alluvial,
and, if we give full credence to the accounts of Lewis and Clark, they
are very subject to inundation. From every source of information on
the subject, we are led to believe, that the banks of the Mississippi,
below the mouth of the Missouri, resemble those of the latter rather
than the former above their junction.

The peninsula between the Mississippi and Missouri, for about forty
miles above their junction, is an extent of first rate land. Above and
beyond the foregoing limit much good land still exists, but more scat-
tered and covered with prairies. The country is indeed but vaguely
known, and documents are wanting for particular description.

The Merrimack is a small unimportant stream, rising between the
Missouri and heads of St. Francis and White rivers. Its course is
nearly east, and it is about 150 miles long.

Settlements — Tonns — Improvements' — Agriculture, — The first settle-
ment of note in the Missouri territory advancing from the state of
'Louisiana, is at and near the Hot Springs on Ouachitta. This place
was uninhabited until about 1305, when a few settlers established
themselves upon the Ouachitta and the waters of Little Missouri. The
emigration to this remote spot has continued annually since the fore-
going epocha. Some families have advanced to Red river ; — the
whole number must now exceed one thousand.

Between the new settlements on Ouachitta and the ancient French
post on Arkansaw, a mountainous and barren wilderness intervenes.

» Clown's Western Gazetteer, p. 189.

t See Melish's Geographical Description, page 11. Second editioj).

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. Ml

The post or town of Arkansas is about forty-five miles above the en-
trance of that stream into the Mississippi. This is one of the most
ancient establishments in Louisiana, being formed before the begin-
ning of the last century. Its advance has not been in proportion to
its duration. It has remained poor and inconsiderable, like all
other places where the inhabitants depend upon hunting, and trade
with savages for their subsistence and commerce. The inhabitants
are mostly French, many of them of mixed blood. The Quapa tribe
of Indians, the former residents of the country, have dwindled to
an inconsiderable remnant. Much of the land adjacent to the set-
tlement is fertile, but too flat, and consequently liable to submersion.
The prairies are extensive. Proceeding westward of the town of Ar-
kansavv the wood and fertile soil gradually decline, and are succeeded
by the interminable barren prairies upon Arkansas, Kansas, and Plate.

It has been observed, that the country included between the White,
St. Francis and Mississippi is generally low and annually inundated.
The banks cf the streams are the most elevated parts, but are them-
selves- liable to inundation. The streams interlock in a thousand
mazes, and in every respect present a similar picture with the over-
flowed country west of the Mississippi river, in the state of Louisiana.

Wherever the land is above, or can be defended from high water,
it possesses the character common to alluvion ; is a deep fertile loam,
clothed with trees of the largest growth, of similar species found on
the same kind of soil and situation in Louisiana.

The settlements yet made on St. Francis are very inconsiderable.
Upon the Mississippi the land is higher, and commercial facility great-
er than in the interior ; of course it is there that the most extensive
establishments have been formed. The town of Little Prairie, thirty
miles below New Madrid, suffered by the earthquake of 1812; pre-
vious to that epoch there were, perhaps, two hundred souls in the vil-
lage.

New Madrid has received a celebrity that must astonish those who
ever visited the place in open day. The ground upon which the town
stands is something higher than the ordinary bank of the Mississippi,
but is exposed to the ravages of that stream, to whose force it has, in a
great measure, yielded. The town is environed, both above and be-
low, with stagnant muddy creeks. When to these natural impedi-
ments wer,e superadded the usual policy of the Spanish government, no
wonder need be excited at the little progress of this town from 1787,
the epoch of its foundation, until 1803, when it was taken possession
of by the United States. Since the latter period, the advance of this
place has been retarded by the natural inconveniences of its local po-
sition.

The country between the Arkansaw and the mouth of the Ohio,
has been, by some, represented as peculiarly insalubrious. We are
disposed to consider this region as in every respect similar to other
parts contiguous to the Mississippi, where the local features are of a
like nature. No reason can be easily shown, why a marked difference
in point of health should be experienced by the inhabitants of two or
more places situated, to all appearance, in a similar manner.

It is very difficult to form any correct estimate of the number of

142 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

people included in the scattered settlements of Arkansaw, White,
and St Fiancis rivers. In l<;04. the while people between Ohio and
Arkans<w were considered at about fourteen hundred ; they have,
m> doubt, greatly increased since, but their real number at this time
can scarcely be conjectured.

The objects of culture of the people of this tract, are cotton, maize,
wheat, flax, and hemp. To the production of all those articles,
wheat excepted, the arable land is well adapted. During the epocha
of the French and Spanish governments, and in some measure since
the establishment of the U. S. authority, Indian traffic and hunting
retarded the advance of agriculture More rational ideas are gaining
ground, and will no doubt contribute to hasten the prosperity and
secure the happiness of the inhabitants.

Ascending the Mississippi from the mouth of Ohio thirty miles,
the traveller finds Cape Girardeau. Twelve miles below the town,
the high lands reach the left bank of the Mississippi for the first time,
in a dist nee of 1 136 miles from the mouth of the Mississippi to this
place. The left bank is here a high rocky blulf It has been ob-
served that the prolongation of Ibis rid^e forms the dividing high
lands between the waters of Arkansaw, White, and St. Francis rivers,
and those of the Missouri and of the Mississippi above the bluff.

Advancing above this distinctive ridge, a new region presents it-
self, in many respects superior to the one we have had under review.
The- surface of the country contiguous to the junction of the Missouri
and Mississippi, is less liable to inundation than the expanse west of
the Mississippi below the mouth of the Ohio.

The superficies contained within the districts of Cape Girardeau,
St. Louis, St. Charles, and St Genevieve, presents a fine country di-
versified by hill and dale, without the rugged aspect of the middle
and northern, or the dull monotony of the lower parts of the Mis-
sissippi.

The bottoms and prairies are generally level, but are interspersed
with rolling woodland.

The district of Cape Girardeau extends from Apple creek to Ta-
wapaty bottom about thirty mile-. The first establishment of this set-
tlement was in 1794 In 1803 the population amounted to one
thousand two hundred and six; by the census of 1810, the inhabi-
tants amounted to three thousand eight hundred and eighty-eight.

This is one ol the most flourishing settlements on the western wa-
ters of the United States The lands are various and good. The
staples are cotton, flour, tobacco, hemp, and nuple sugar. Maize is
raised for home consumption, but is frequently exported to Natchez
and New Orleans. Beef, pork, lard, and tallow, are also produced
for consumption and exportation.

The settlements in this district are so far from being confined to the
banks of the Mississippi, that the greatest number are scattered west
of Cape Girardeau, and even extend to the waters of St. Francis,
sixty miles in the rear of the cape ; where the lands are of the first
quality.

ST. GENEVIEVE is bounded southeast by Apple creek, north by
he Merrimack river, N. E. by the Mississippi : upon the latter it ex-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 143

tends upwards of one hundred miles ; its limit?; are indefinite t. the
we-t. This district contains two regularly built villages, St. Gene-
vieve and Bourbon.

The land is various, and more hilly than that of Cape Girardeau ;
perhaps less fertile, but certainly richer in mineral wealth, particu-
larly lead and salt The settlements extend to St. Francis, whose
lead streams rise in this district.

Between St. Genevieve and Merrimack, the banks of the Mississippi
are in many places high and rocky. Some of these bluffs are elevated
at least three hundred and sixty feet, and have at a distance the ap-
pearance of artificial towers They are solid masses of limesto?ie dis-
posed in horizontal strata*

The agricultural productions of this district are similar to those of
the district of Cape Girardeau. The timber consists of oak, pine,
cypress, and red cedar.

The population of St. Genevieve, in 1804, amounted to two thou-
sand eight hundred and seventy; in 1810 it amounted to four th<»u-
sand eight hundred and twenty. The population is annually increas-
ing with great rapidity.

Lead and salt are the principal staples ; those articles are tent
wherever a market offers. St. Louis' district has the Mississippi river
east, Missouri N. VV., and the Merrimack on the >outh. The district
is well peopled, and has, besides the town of St. Louis, two fine
villages* Carondelet and St. Ferdinand.

St. Louis, the capital of the Missouri territory, is situated on the
west or right bank of the Mississippi river, upon an elevated plain.,
eighteen miles by water below the mouth of Missouri, and fourteen
above that of the Merrimack, at 38° 36' N. lat. 12° 68' W. Ion. from
Washington city. This town was founded in 1764 by some French
traders, as a depot for traffic with the savages. The sight is bold and
elevated ; and being founded on a rock, the encroachments of the
Mississippi are prevented from producing injurious effects.

The town of St Louis extends along the river about a mile. There
is considerable resemblance between the natural position of St. Louis
and Cincinnati: both are built upon a first and second bottom. A
sloping hili rises behind the former, and gradually extends into a plain,
apon which is an open prairie. St. Louis is surrounded with delapi-
dated fortifications, which were at no period in a complete condition.
The town is now in a state ol very rapid improvement. Its situation
is not only advantageous, but interesting: occupying a point where
so many vast rivers mingle their streams, an increasing, rapid, and
lasting property is promised to this town. Including Louisiana, St.
Louis is the most central town jet buiit in the American Union. It
may be in the course of human events the seat of empire, and uo po-
sition can be more favourably situated for the accumulation of all
that comprises wealth and power.

The village of Carondelet is situated on the bank of the Missis-
sippi five miles below St. Louis: it is an inconsiderable place, but on
the increase.

* Stodderda sketches of Louisiana, page 217*

144 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

St. Ferdinand stands upon a rising ground near a fine brook of dear
water, fourteen miles northwest of St. Louis. The lands adjacent,
particularly the prairies, are extremely fertile.

The lands in the entire district of St. Louis are more fertile, and
less broken, than are those of St. Genevieve. lietween the Merri-
mack and St. Louis the banks of the Mississippi are high and rocky :
a short distance above St. Louis an alluvial bottom commences, which
extends above the mouth of the Missouri. Upon both rivers the bot-
toms are extensive, level, and fertile soil, covered with large timber.

Prairies are extensive near both St Louis and St. Ferdinand ; that
near the latter is twelve miles long and two wide. Extensive settle-
ments are made upon its border. It lies nearly parallel to the Mis-
souri, and from one to two miles from that stream. The settlements
made on this prairie are similar to those formed in like places in
other parts of Louisiana and Missouri. The plantations are extended
into both the prairie and woodland, embracing a due proportion of
each. The farms are many of them large and well cultivated, and
their proprietors wealthy.

The settlements are every where extending: the fertility of the
lands, and the health enjoyed by the inhabitants, contribute to give
unusual property to the country near St. Louis.

The richness and variety of its mineral and vegetable productions ;
its lead, salt, flour, beef, pork, flax, and hemp, afford inexhaustible
sources of wealth, and secures to this country a rank amongst the
most eligible spots in the United States.

The population of this district, in 1804, amounted to about two
thousand eight hundred persons ; by the census of 1810, the inhabi-
tants were five thousand six hundred and sixty-seven. The popula-
tion is, no doubt, now (1817) nearly, or altogether double the latter
number.

Attached to St- Louis, is the flourishing settlement of St. Andrew s5
twenty-five miles southwest of that town. Like all other parts of the
district, the lands of St. Andrew's exhibit a mixture of prairie and
woodland ; hill, dale, and soil, every where fertile. The farms are
large and skilfully conducted.

The timber of the district of St. Louis, except pine and cypress,
is similar to that of St. Genevieve : its exports have been mentioned.

ST. CHARLES' district occupies the peninsula between Mississip-
pi and Missouri rivers ; the settlements extending along both. This
district may be termed an expanse of soil, unexcelled perhaps on
earth. Exclusive of the two great rivers which bound the district on
the N. E. and S. W. sides, it is intersected with a number of smaller
streams, affording partial inland navigation and mill-seats. The
country is rolling but not mountainous ; the soil is deep and strong.
Timber and good and wholesome water are abundant. The prairie
lands along the Mississippi are the only exceptions where these ad-
vantages are not enjoyed by the inhabitants.

Extensive bottoms are found skirting all the large and many of the
smaller streams. Those on the Missouri are clothed with wood, and
but rarely inundated. Commencing at the mouth of the Blissouri a
prairie lies along the right shore of the Mississippi, which extends

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 145

sixty -five or seventy miles in length, from one to ten miles wide. Tbe
settlements are formed along the margin. The soil is extremely fer-
tile, and yields an ample production to the farmers.

St. Charles' village stands upon the left shore of the Missouri, twen-
ty-four miles above its mouth, and is remarkable as being the most
western town yet built in that part of the United States. This town
was founded in 1780, and lies along the bank of the river about a
mile in one continuous sheet, containing at this time about two hundred
houses, and one thousand or twelve hundred people.

Portage des Scioux is a village on the right bank of the Mississippi,
six miles above the Missouri. This village is small but increasing ;
it contains about fifty houses, and between one hundred and fifty to
two hundred inhabitants.

The timber and productions of St. Charles does not materially
differ from those of St. Louis ; but the superficies of arable soil in the
former is certainly greater, on an equal area, than in the latter.

Like the adjacent districts, St. Charles produces lead and salt. Some
of the richest mines of the latter, yet known in the country, is in this
district. The salt springs are found principally upon the waters of the
Missouri.

The population of this district was, in 1804, estimated at about one
thousand five hundred persons ; in 1810 they were found augmented
to upwards of three thousand five hundred, and are still rapidly in-
creasing.

The population of Missouri territory is recent. A few settlements
existed upon the left shore of the Mississippi from the first discovery
of the country by the French in 1683, but few or no establishments
were made upon the right bank until the session of Canada to Eng-
land, and Louisiana to Spain. In 1764 the first effective settlements in
the now Missouri territory was formed at St. Louis. Since that pe-
riod the other posts were founded at different and distant times.

The usual and ruinous policy of Spain was followed here as in all
her other American dominions. The posts were separated from
each other, and unable to yield mutual protection, and prevented
from a reciprocity of commercial intercourse. Many causes have
been adduced for tbe apparent decadence of Spain. Some of these
causes have, and do exist, and have produced no doubt the effects as-
cribed to them ; but perhaps the cause that inflicted the deepest
wound upon this great monarchy, was the dispersion of its physical
force over too wide a surface.

Spain not only contributed little towards the peopling of Louisiana
when in her hands, but she also, in abandoning the country, left impedi-
ments to emigration, that has retarded the increase of its inhabitants
to this day. From the loose and careless manner of granting land
titles, practised by Spain, the officers of the United States have not,
in twelve years, been able to develope their intricacy. Though a
great number of claims have been acknowledged legal by our commis-
sioners, an immense number still remains undetermined ; and until a
final adjustment takes place upon the merits of the private claims,
none of the public land in either the state of Louisiana or the terri-
tory of Missouri can be sold.

Mti EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

. At the moment of the cession of Louisiana to the United States^,
the dispersed and defenceless state of the population was too appa-
rent to escape the most inattentive observer It was perceived by
our statesmen, and the same comprehensive mind that conceived and
executed the transfer of the country under our authority, being then
at the head of the government, the only possible means to augment
1he population of Louisiana was attempted. Commissioners were
sent Jo receive a register of the claims of individuals, and to decide
upon their merits. Little delay or difficulty was apprehended ; but
the result proved very much the contrary. The commissioners were
unacquainted with the nature of the titles, and the inhabitants were
suspicious of some fiscal manoeuvres being concealed under the whole
transaction. An adherence to technical but inapplicable rules, re-
tarded the proceedings of the commissioners, and a refractory distrust
prevented the people from producing their papers with facility. Be-
tween the parties, the liberal and enlightened policy of the general
govt- rnment has hitherto been unproductive of the benefits that would
have resulted from a speedy adjustment of the land claims in Louis-
iana. If one gigantic mind had not arisen to repair the mischief, the
nation would have experienced the destructive consequences of this
delay.

As things still remain, no land can be procured in Louisiana or
Missouri, except by purchase from individuals. The smaller claims
are generady expensive, and most of the larger have doubtful titles.
Emigration is as a matter of course, turned towards places where
land can be purchased from the United States.

The only two large titles in the state ol Louisiana having any con-
siderable bodies of land open to purchase have been noticed. In
Missouri territory there are a number of large claims covering exten-
sive tracts of the best lands in the country. The lead mines both
above and below the junction of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers.,
are involved in some of those claims. How many years will yet
transpire before the adjustment of these claims, the sale of the public
land, and the country be laid open to emigration, it i- difficult to con-
jecture. If nothing but the mere settlement of the lands were involved
in this question, the inquiry would be of little moment ; as the re-
moval of the citizens from one place to another can add nothing to
their numbers, and comparatively but little to the national wealth ;
but the exposed situation of the state of Louisiana particularly, and
its vital importance to the United States, renders all considerations of
policy in which the subject is involved, of primary importance.

Taken as a whole, Louisiana was perhaps the greatest, bloodless.,
conquest ever made by man. Its acquisition at once enlarged and
strengthened the United States. Its citizens, by the fulfilment of the
severest duty mankind can perform, have shown themselves worthy of
all the protection that the nation can give. In the hour of alarm,
the Louisianians were at the post of duty, and, in the day of battle,
stood firm at the post of honour. Their gallantry aided in giving the
United States a name, that time may render venerable, but cannot
destioy.

It has already been repeatedly observed in this treatise, that the

EMIGRANT'S etJIDE. U1

cjimate of those parts of North America lying upon the western slope
of the valley of the Mississippi, is colder than the corresponding la-
titudes east of the Aieghany. This statement is very different from
the commonly received opinion on the subject ; which almost uni-
formly supposes the contrary, [f the seasons were more mild in the
valley of the Mississippi than in similar latitudes on the Atlantic coast,
the fact would be an anomaly in nature. The Aieghany mountains
lie in a N. E. and S. W. position, and shield a considerable part of
the coast of the Atlantic ocean from the refrigirating winds of the
north. On the contrary, the valley of the Mississippi exposes an
open and comparatively an unbroken plain, whost surface is higher
than the alluvial shore that extends from New-York to Cape Sable.

Mr. Jefferson, in his invaluable Notes on Virginia, first gave sanction
to the opinion that more heat was enjoyed by the inhabitants on the
Ohio than on the Potomac in the same parallels of latitude. Mr.
Voluey pretended to determine by vegetable analogy the exact differ-
ence ; and though this method is cenainly the best for which data can
be found in nature, yet the mere existence of a tree in one place,
and its being wanting in another, gives no conclusive evidence of any
real difference in the respective climates. The facts mentioned in
this treatise, respecting the liriodendron tulipifera (poplar) and the
robinia pseud acacia, are in point.* To make a vegetable a true
thermometer, its life, modes of growth, inflorescence, the soil to
which it is congenial, and its habitudes, must be known and compared
by means of specimens raised at two places, whose temperatures are
different. The presence or absence of any vegetable in a given place
prove nothing, but that presence or absence.

Dr Drake was the first writer on the valley of the Ohio, or Mis-
sissippi, who possessed, at the same time, talents and practical expe-
rience on the subject. Climate is like the human character in one
thing ; neither can be known by any other means than long and in-
timate acquaintance. The common tourist is but seldom well endow-
ed with the patience and skill to collect, and still more rarely with
the power of mind to compare facts of any kind ; much more where
tht common prejudices of the world are to be encountered, Dr.
Drake, with the modesty that frequently accompanies talent, adduce?
facts which prove that at Cincinnati,! the climate is as severe, if not
more so, than at Philadelphia, though the former is upwards of a de-
gree of latitude more southward than the latter. Mr Stodderd, in his
Historical and Descriptive sketches of Louisiana^ endeavours to sup-
port the common notion, that more heat is felt on the banks ot the
Mississippi than on the Atlantic coast in the same latitude, but ac-
knowledges that the former place is also colder in winter. The ex-
treme summer heat is not so certain a criterion of climate, as the ex-
treme of winter cold. Heats are casual and excessive ; in very
high northern latitudes cold is much less variable. Deductions ot
temperature drawn from the rising and falling of the spirits in a com-
mon thermometer, are far from being conclusive data respecting

* See page 67.
f Picture of Cincinnati, page 115 and sequel. J Page 235

448 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

climate. The thermometer may mark with great precision the
absolute heat at the place where the instrument is suspended, but can
afford but little information respecting the temperature of the adja-
cent country. The freezing of rivers affords more correct facts con-
cerning the relative degrees of cold, of any two or more places than
does the thermometer. Mr. Stodderd states, that for three succes-
sive winters, commencing in 1802, the Mississippi was passable on
ice at St. Louis, and that the severe frost set before the 20th Decem-
ber of every year. The same author states also, that in January,
1805, the ice was at St. Louis twenty-two inches in thickness ; and
farther, that the severity of the weather at St. Louis is about the
same as in the north part of New-Jersey. It is a singular circum-
stance that Mr. Stodderd joins these facts to his own opinion, that the
heat of the climate is greater in the Mississippi valley than on the
Atlantic coast.

The author of this treatise was at Natchez during the winters of
1799, 1800, 1801, 1802, 1803, 1804, and 1805; in each one of
these years much cold weather was experienced, particularly in 1800
and 1803. In the former year a most destructive sleet fell in Janu-
ary ; in the latter, there was but little snow, but the winter season
was attended with long and severe frost. In 1804 the blossoms of
the cotton plant were destroyed by frost on the night of the 26th
September. In 1805 the cold weather set in about New-year, and
was attended with snow and long intense frost.

The winter of 1806 afforded an example of a departure from the
ordinary routine of the seasons in Louisiana. At New-year the flow-
ers of the peach tree, the cotton, tobacco, and those of many other
very tender plants, were in full bloom. The season was warm and
even sultry, until the 10th of February, when a. storm set in that con-
tinued three or four days, and destroyed all vegetables perishable by
frost. Indeed, during seventeen winters that occurred during the resi-
dence of the author in Louisiana and the Mississippi territory, not
one passed away without hard frost at Opelousas and even at New
Orleans.

The general aspect of the country near Natchez has, from Decem-
ber to March, all the features of winter that are seen at Pittsburg,
except continued snows. The trees are denuded of their leaves ; the
grass and other tender vegetables are killed. The inhabitants find
fires almost as necessary at the former as at the latter place.

The heats of summer differ but very little from Lexington in Ken-
tucky to the border of the gulf of Mexico. It has been supposed,
by many persons, that the heats were even more oppressive at St.
Louis and Lexington than at Natchez, Opelousas, or New Orleans.
The opinion rests upon very uncertain data, to say the least. Ex-
cessive heat is oppressive, and persons labouring under its force are
liable to exaggerate its effects. The observation on the climate of all
the country we have been reviewing, may be concluded by remark-
ing, that on its surface the ordinary course of nature is not inverted.
The same causes produce the same effects here as in other places.
The greatest and most durable cold is found in parts highest and

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 149

most exposed to the north ; the longest, and most intense heat, in low
places, sheltered from the north and open to the south winds.

An assertion is ventured, that no vegetable that cannot be cultivated
in any given place in the open»air on the Atlantic coast, can be rear-
ed west" of the Aleghany mountains, without a removal to ? more
southern latitude, and the removal considerably greater in the latter
than in the former place.

It would answer but few useful purposes to enter into any length-
ened detail respecting the health or diseases of the country upon
and contiguous to the Mississippi. The general advice given in this
treatise, respecting the most suitable season to remove into the state
of Louisiana, applies with equal propriety to all the region reviewed.
The last chapter of this treatise will contain the result of the per-
sonal observations of the author, during his residence in the country;
to this chapter the reader is referred.

The following list of roads will exhibit the relative distance from
Natchez and St. Louis, the two principal towns of the state of Mis-
sissippi and territory of Missouri, to the circumjacent places. Some
new roads are no doubt omitted, but the chief routes are marked,
and some roads inserted that have never before been published.

It will be recollected, that a difference in climate was pointed out be-
tween the countries north and south of the dividing ridge that strikes
the Mississippi in the district of Cape Girardeau. A much greater
difference might be pointed out respecting travelling. Wherever
much overflown lands occur, impediments are great and embarrassing
to the traveller. This is peculiarly the case for some distance west
of the Mississippi, from the bluff of Cape Girardeau to the mouth of
that river. Above Cape Girardeau the country is more high and dry,
and easily passed.

The route No. 34, from St. Louis to Natchitoches has been fre-
quently travelled. It is yet, however, only a trace, passing over a
hilly, broken, and in many places mountainous country. This trace,
or within a short distance of it, must in a few years become a great
thoroughfare. When the banks of Red, Arkansaw, White, Osage,
Kansas, Plate, and Missouri, become settled, this must be the return
route from New Orleans to very extensive settlements. The relative
position can be seen by inspection on any good map. In the progress
of population, the route from New Orleans by Opelousas to Natchito-
ches, and from thence north and west, must become one of the most
public passes in the world. It will be by land what the Mississippi
will be by water.

East of the Mississippi, travelling from New Orleans will be dis-
persed over a number of different land routes, at least three ; by
Natchez, direct to Nashville, and by the valley of Mobile : on the
west side of the Mississippi, by far the greatest number of persons
will be confined to one route, at least as far as Opelousas, and even
to Natchitoches.

On this latter route, after the low lands of Atchafalaya are passed,
aature opposes few obstacles to the formation of a good road in any

150

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

direction, where it can become necessary. From New Orleans to'
Natchitoches the distance is 356 miles*, only 21 miles of which is
over the lakes of Attacapas.

If the current of human events continues to flow in its present
course, Natchitoches will, within one half century, become an im-
mense interior entrepot. The situation of this town is admirably
adapted to form the connecting link between New Orleans and the
interminable regions to the N. W. of that city.

Though Natchez is not the sea* of government, it is however the
principal town in the state of Mississippi. The following list of roads
will show the distance from that city to the various places of note in
its vicinity, and in the neighbouring state9 and territories.

No. 20.

Road from Natchez to New Orleans, by Madisonville.

St. Catherine creek

Second creek -

Homochitto river - - - - -

The 31° N. lat. .....

Cross Amite river -----

Spiller's -

Court-house St. Helena, bridge over the Tickfoha river

Springfield on Notalbany creek -

Pontchatoola creek -

Tangipao river - -

Madisonville -

Mouth of Chifuncte" -

Over lake Pontchartrain, to Fort St. John, mouth of Bayou St,

John ------

St. John's suburb (Fauxburg,) -

New Orleans -

This road is the inverse of No. 8. page 40.

No. 21.
From Natchez to New Orleans by Baton Rouge and the Levee.

112

127

1.30

150

;54

\5%

St. Catherine creek ...

White Apple village ...

Homochitto river -

Ferry over Buffalo ...

Woodville -

Sligo --_-.,

Bayou Sara creek ...

St. Francisville in New Feliciana (state of Louisiana,)

Bullers plains - - -

Baton Rouge -

Fsftjux of Iberville

Miles.

Sue Read No. 9, page 44

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. ' 151

Miles.

&ver Manchac point

115

St. Gabriel church

;20

Madame Bruo's

135

Opposite Donnaldsonville, efflux of Lafourche

142

General Hampton's

147

Brmeier's

150

Church of St. John Baptiste

159

Fortin

167

Bonnet Quarre- bend

185

Church of the German coast

200

Detrehan's

201

Lebranche's

203

Kenner's -.•-'-

205

Souve's -

208

MCarty's bend

216

New Orleans

224

No. 22.
Natchez to New Orleans by water.
This table is the reverse of part of No. 7.

White cliffs ....

Mouth of Homocbitto river

Mouth of Buffalo river -

Fort Adams -•-■_.-

Mouth of Red river -

Atchafalaya *

Islands of Three Sisters ...

Bayou Tonica

Point CoU| ee church -

Mouth of Bayou Sara, St. Francisville

Mouth of Thompson's creek

Paton's and Lilly's islands ...

General Wickoffs - - -

Baton Rouge

Efflux of Iberville or Bayou Manchac

EffliiX of Plaquemine -

Church of St. Gabriel

Donnaldsonville, efflux of Lafourche

General Hampton's ...

Bringier's - - -

Cantrel's two churches, parish of St. James

Fortin's -

Bonnet Quarre church, parish of St. Charles

Bonnet Quan 6" point

Red church, German coast ...

Detrehan's ....

Kenner's --»«--

Miles.

4(J

2*J

120

151

152

158

166

176

184

107

205

215

241

247

249

257

269

1-4

2«3

288

302

303

?08

31 5J1

162

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

M'Carty's
New Orleans

Miles.

- - - 51 3tG

- - 6| 322

The route by water from Natchez to the Hot Springs on Ouachitta,
will be found in numbers 7 and 22.

The route from Natchez to Natchitoches, will be found in num-
bers 7, 12, and 22.

The route from Natchez by water, to Opelousas and Attacapas,
can be taken from numbers 14, 15, 16, and 22.

It would swell the list of tables to too large a bulk, to give all ihe
roads and river routes direct : there is, we trust, no road or route by
water of any consequence, in either the state of Louisiana, Missis-
sippi, or territory of Alabama, not embraced in the lists included in
this treatise.

No. 23.

From Natchez to Opelousas and Attacapas by Alexandria, or
Red river.

Miles.
Concordia, west bank of Mississippi
Bayou Crocodile ....

Black river -

Bushly creek - - -

Prairie of Ocatahoola ....

S. W. extremity of Ocatahoola

Hemphill's creek -----
Little, or Ocatahoola river ---'.-
Alexandria -

Bayou Boeuf -

Mulhollan's -

Bayou Crocodile
Pine Prairie, Opelousas -
M'DaniePs, head of Prairie Mamou . (

Hanchett's - ' -

Fontenot's -

Opelousas church -

Prairie Laurent -

Lower end of ditto, bridge over Bayou Fusilier
St. Martinsville -

New Iberia - - - . -

Sorrel's - - - - , • (

Court-house, parish of St. Mary ...
Renthrop's ferry -
Mouth of Teche -

No. 24.
From Natchez to Opelousas by the Prairie of AvoyelN

Ferry over Buffalo. (See No. 21.)
Fort Adams, Loftus' heights
31° N. Wit.

2'i

103

118

120

132

142

150

153

160

172

176

185

205

214

233

250

271

272

liles.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 153

Mile*.

Ferry over Mississippi, between the entrance of Red and At-

cbafalaya rirers - - - - - 1 2 63

Avoyelles Prairie - - - - 20 83

Over, ditto - - - - - 6 80

Bayou le Mourir - - - - - 3 92

Bayou Boeuf - - - - 12 114

Bayou Crocodile - - - - - 5119

Pine Prairie - - - - - 4 123

Mouth of Teche. (See preceding table.) - - 130 253

It will be perceived, on comparing these two foregoing tables, that
the distance from Natchez to the lower part of Attacapas, is neajr
thirty miles less by the mouth of Red river than by the town of
Alexandria ; but the upper or Alexandria road can be passed, when
the lower or Avoyelles route cannot. Both passes over wide extent
of overflowed lands, though the former, in proportion to distance, has
more hilly and consequently better ground for road than the latter.

No. 25.

Road from Natchez to Milledgeville in Georgia, by Monticello,
state of Mississippi, and Fort St. Stephens, Alabama, territory.

Miles.
Washington .....

Hoggat's ------

Head of Hor*ochitto river -

Bogue Chito .....

MONTICELLO .....

Winchester on the Chickisawhay river

Eastern branch of Pascagoula

Sintabogue river .....

FORT ST. STEPHEN'S ....

Fort Claiborne -

Hurricane Spring -
Fort Decatur .....

Point Comfort -

Chatahoocby river

Fort Lawrence -

Fort Hawkin's --

Milledgeville -

No. 26.

To Nashville in Tennessee.

105

195

206

227

239

264

307

363

375

405

450

500

545

Miles,

Washington -

Seltzerstown -

Union - -

Huntston -

Gibson's port

Grindstone ford

White sand creek, branch of Big-black

Acorn creek

154

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Big creek "'",""''"

Faliah creek .....

Lust creek, a branch of Big-black

Pearl river ------

White Oak creek

Head of Big-black

M'lntoshville .....

Long creek - - - -

Black Briar creek -

Cohatta .----.

Notarchucky -

Bear creek .,-'.- -

Tennessee river '

Tennessee line -

Buffalo river *...-.

Duck river

Franklin .----.

NASHVILLE - -

No. 27.

From Natchez to St. Louis by water.

Mouth of Schillings' Bayou

Mouth of Fairchilcl's creek, and lower end of Fairchild's islands
Efflux of Bayou L'Argent -
Upper end of Fairchild's islands
Mouth of Cole's creek
Petite GuTf -

Evans' mouth of Bayou Pierre
Mouth of Big-black river
Lower extremity of Palmyra bend
Upper extremity of Palmyra bend
Warren, in Warren county

Walnut hills .....

Yazoo mouth ....

Entrance into lake Providence, and lower trace from the settle-
ments on Ouachitta ....
Upper trace from Ouachitta

Stack island .....

North boundary of the state of Louisiana 33° N. lat.
Mouth of Arkansaw ....

White river -

Three islands - -

Horse-shoe bend t

St. Francis' river - -

Council Island -

Fort Bickering, Chickisaw bluff
Bluff .... -

Bluff ...

104

129

179

190

200

3-1

234

253

265

277

284

300

311

335

353

380

414

432

Miles,

s 9

1 1

100

116

130

171

208

211

216

318

332

368

380

410

2 Li

433

470

499

521

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE

.ciT.Li\jriv.fi;.> j. o uuiul,

Miles.

Bluff

121 533

New Madrid .

70| 003

South boundary of Tennessee, and north boundary

of the

state of Mississippi

615

Iron banks ....

645

Mouth of Ohio ....

663

Head of Tiwapaty bottom

697

Great bluff of rocks

696

Cape Girardeau )

707

Apple creek ....

725

Kaskaskia river ....

765

St. Genevieve .....

789

Fort Chartres ...

801

Herculaneum ....

813

Harrison .....

819

Mouth of Merrimack

827

St. Louis .....

846

No. 28.

Natchez to Pittsburg, by water.

Mouth of Ohio. (See the preceding table.)

U IIC3.

668

Chain of rocks ....

683

Wilkinsonville ....

689

Fort Masac .

709

Tennessee river

717

Smithland ....

727

Cumberland river

730

Hurricane island ....

765

Cave in the rock ....

. 3

768

Saline river ....

779

Wabash river ....

804

Diamond island ....

831

Henderson ....

849

Green river ....

870

Hanging rock ....

900

Anderson's ferry . .

932

Clover creek ....

962

Sinking creek .

972

Little Blue river ....

992

Blue river .

1004

Salt river ....

1036

LOUISVILLE, falls of Ohio

1061

Westport .....

1081

Port William, mouth of Kentucky river

1117

Big-bone Lick creek .

3'.!

1147

Lavrrenceburgh ....

1 ;67

Great Miami ....

1169

North bend ....

', 1175

CINCINNATI and Newport

.16

119!

156

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Columbia, mouth of Little Miami

Augusta

Charleston

Limestone

Liberty

Manchester

Adamsville .

Graham's station

Salt Lick

Portsmouth, Big Sciota river

Little Sciota

Little Sandy river

Great Sandy, eastern extremity of Kentucky

Big Guyandot river

Little Guyandot

Gallipolis ....

Point Pleasant, mouth of Great Kenhawa river

Letart's falls

Big Sandy creek

BufTentin's island

Shade river

Bellville ....

Great Hockhocking

Little Hockhocking .

Blannerbassett's island

Little Kenhawa

Vienna ....

MARIETTA, mouth of Muskingum rirer

Little Muskingum

Lower end of Long Reach

Upper end of Long Reach

WHEELING

Warren ....

Charleston

STEUBENVILLE

Fawcett's town

George town

Beaver town, one mile below mouth of Beaver

Logs town

PITTSBURG

No. 29.

From St. Louis to New Orleans by water,
the reverse of the preceding, and No. 27.

Mouth of Merrimack

Harrison ....

Herculaneum

F»rt Chartres

Ohi

This route is in part

Miles.

8 27

6 33

12 4*

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

167

Miles.

St. Genevieve .

Kaskaskia river ....

Apple creek ....

121

Cape Girardeau ....

It:

139

Great rocky bluff /

150

Head of Tavvapaty bottom

151

Mouth of Ohio ....

198

Iron banks ....

23,

301

North boundary of the state of Tennessee

231

New Madrid ....

243

First bluff ....

313

Second bluff ....

325

Third bluff ....

347

Fort Pickering ....

376

Council island ....

403

St. Francis' river . ,

436

Horse-shoe bend ....

466

Three islands .

478

White river ....

514

Mouth of Arkan'saw

528

North boundary of the state of Louisiana, 33° N. iat.

102

630

Stack island ....

635

Upper trace from Ouachitta

637

Entrance into lake Providence

674

Yazoo mouth ....

715

Walnut hills ....

629

Warren, in Warren county

745

Upper extremity of Palmyra bend

753

Lower extremity of Palmyra bend

773

Mouth of Big-black river

786

Grand gulf ....

787

Evans', mouth of Bayou Pierre

798

Petite gulf ....

807

Mouth of Cole's creek

820

Fairchild's island

827

Efflux of Bayou L'Argent

830

Mouth of Fairchild's creek .

832

Mouth of Schillings' Bayou

841

Natchez .....

846

New Orleans. (See Nos. 7 and 22.)

322

1189

No. 30.

St. Louis to Washington city, by Lexington in Kentucky.

MiUs.

Cahokia

Prairie de Rocher

Kaskaskia

Beaucoup

110

Vasseux river

121

East Fork river

131

J 58

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

Miteii

U. S. Saline

Shawanee town

Morganfield, Kentucky

Henderson

Yellow bank

Hardensburg

Elizabeth town

Bealsburg

Bairds' town

Petersburg on Kentucky river

Versailles

Frankfort, Lexington

Paris

Blue Licks

Washington

Limestone, or Maysville

West Union

Chillicothe .

Tarlton

New Lancaster

Zanesville

Cambridge

Washington

Morristown

St. Clairsville

Wheeling, Virginia

Alexandria, Pennsylvania

Washington

Brownsville

Union

Foot of Laurel hill

Cumberland, Maryland

Old town

Hancock

Hagers' town

Frederick

Montgomery court-house

George town

WASHINGTON

No. 31.

St. Louis to Washington, by Shawanee town and Knoxville.

Shawanee town. (See No. 30.)

Harpshead, Kentucky

Greeneville

Russelville

Craigfort, Tennessee

Dickson's spring

'Fort Blount

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

159

Miles.

Mount Granger

. 16

360

Kingston

. 67

427

KNOXVILLE

. 43

470

Rutledge

. 32

503

Oresville

515

Rogersville

. 22

537

Rossville

. 25

562

Blountsville

. 18

580

Abingdon, Virginia

. 24

604

King's

. 10

614

Bowen's

. 16

630

Head of Tennessee river

.13

543

Evansham

. 32

675

Inglisville, on Kenhaway rive

. 31

706

Down, Kenhaway

. 11

717

Christiansburg

. 14

731

Big Lick

. 26

757

Fincastle

. 14

771

Pattonsburg, on James' river

. 14

785

Natural bridge

. 12

797

Lexington

. 14

811

Brownsburg

. 13

824

Middlebrook

. n

835

Staunton

. u

846

Waynesboro

. 12

858

New-York

865

Charlottsville

. 20

885

Orange court-house

. 34

919

Gum spring

939

Wilder's

. 12

951

Fredericksburg

20i

971|

Falmouth

!£

973

Stafford

982

Acquia

. 4^

986^

Dumfrie's

. 9f

966

Ocoquhan

. 9?

1005£

Pohike church

. 5"

1010£

Alexandria

. 1H

1022

Washington

1029

No. 32

St. Louis to Pittsburgh by Viqcennes and Cincinnati.

Miles.

Cahokia . .

Kaskaskia river ... .3

5 33

Little water ... .12

3 153

Fox river ...... 2

5 178

Vincennes, on Wabash river, state of Indiana . 3

3 214

White river

i 238

160

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Mites.

Blue river

298

CORYDON

316

Louisville, Kentucky

341

Middletown

353

Shelbyville

378

Newcastle

402

Port William

422

Newport

468

Cincinnati

469

Columbia

477

Newtown

494

Williamsburg

501

New-market

520

Bainbridge

545

Chelicothe

563

Tarlton

581

New Lancaster

597

Zanesville

631

Cambridge

666

Washington

666

Morristown

691

St. Clairsville

692

Wheeling, Virginia

701

Alexandria, Pennsylvania

717

Washington

733

Cannonsburg

740

Pittsburg

758

No. 33.

From St. Louis to New Orleans, by Russelville, Nashville, and

Natchez.

Miles,

Russelsville. (See No. 31.) . | 296

North boundary of Tennessee

15' 311

Springfield

15 326

Mansker's

338

NASHVILLE

360

Franklin

378

Duck river

412

Buffalo river

439

Tennessee, south line

457

Tennessee river

481

Bear creek

491

Notarchucky

508

Cohatta

515

Black Briar creek

527

Long creek

539

M'lntoshville

558

Head of Big-black river

593

White oak creek . ,

60g

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 161

Miles.
Pearl river -

Lust creek, branch of Big-black
Faliah creek -

Big creek -

Acorn creek * -

White sand creek -

Grindstone ford, Bayou Pierre
Gibson's port, Bayou Pierre . _ .

Huntston ------

Union -

Seltzerstown -

Washington -

NATCHEZ ....

New Orleans by Madisonville. (See No. 8.)

St. Catherine creek -

Second creek ....

Homochitto river -

The 31° N. lat. - - - -

Amite river -

Spiller's .....

Bridge over Tickfoha river, C. H. of St. Helena

Springfield on Notalbany river

Pontchatoola creek -

Tangipao river ....

Madisonville ....

Mouth of Chifuncte" ....

Over lake Pontchartrain to Fort St. John

St. John's suburb, (Fauburg)

NEW ORLEANS ....

No. 34.

St. Louis to New Orleans by the Hot Springs on Ouachitta, Nat-
chitoches on Red river, and Opelousas.

Miles.

613

663

688

704

716

732

744

750

766

773

780

686

792

796

806

812

847

851

865

880

890

895

904

919

922

942

946

948

Merrimack river

Dividing ridge between the Merrimack and St. Francis'

rivers 30

Head of St. Francis river

125

Big-black, branch of White river

155

Little-black

167

Current river

177

Thomas' Fork

202

Spring river -

232

Strawberry river

267

White river ...

327

Little Red river, branch of White river

387

Arkansaw river

422

Hot Springs - - - '

472

Ouachitta river

481

Fourcbe au Cado

505

162 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

Miles.

Terre Noir creek '-

Little Missouri, branch of Ouachitta
White oak creek -

Tulina Vaucherie in the state of Louisiana
Campte -

Grand Ecor _-■-..-

NATCHITOCHES -

Bayou Conchatta. (See No. 9.)
Terre Blanche '', *

Bayou Cypriere Mort - ,

Bayou Crocodile -

Pine Prairie -

M'Daniel's -

Hanchet's -

Fontenot's _-■-•-?

OPELOUSAS ....

Bridge over Bayou Fusilier
St. Martinsville, Attacapas
New Iberia -

Sorrel's ..-.-..-'_■

C. H. Parish of St. Mary's
J^enthrop's ferry • -

Mouth of Teche river

Atchafalaya .....

Grassy lake - - -

West end of Lake Palourde
East end of Lake Palourde
Lake Verret -

Over lake Verret -

Lafourche river -

Donnaldsonville, on the Mississippi
General Hampton's, Old Houmas
Bringier's -

CantrePs two churches, parish of St, John Baptiste
Fortin's -

Bonnet Quarre church, parish cf St. Charles
Bonnet Quarre point
Red church, German coast
Detrehan's -

Kenner'i ....

Sauve's -

M'Carty's ....

New Orleans - - - Gil 080

No. 35.

Route from St. Louis to the Pacific ocean, by the Missouri and Co-
lumbia rivers.

Miles.

St. Charles I 21

rharreU's village ..... 47 j C8

525

541

553

132

685

711

718

722

733

753

765

797

806

814

819

824

836

849.

869

878

897

914

935

}

936

938

942

945

956

967

970

977

£0

997

1003

1007

1015

1027

1041

1016

1060

1061

1066

1069

1074

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

163

Miles.

3-:

33J 133

100

209

120

100

Gasconade

Osage river -

Leadmine -

Manitou creek - -

Saline river .....

Manitou river - - -'«.-'

Goodwoman's river ....

Mine river .....

Two Charlton rivers - -

Old Fort, Orleans ....

Grand river

Coal bank _«.■_-.

Blue water river ....

KANZAS river

Little Plate river - - -

Nodawa river ....

Wolf river ....

Big Nemaha ....

Neeshnabatona river ....

Little Nemaha river - - - ' ■

PLATTE river ....

Bluff on the northeast side

Near the Maha village, (three miles.)

Big Sioux river ....

Copperas bluffs ....

James' river -

Calumet bluff -

Ancient Fortification

Quicourre -.---■

Poncar river and village

White river ------

Three rivers of the Sioux pass

Commencement of Great Bend

Upper part of Great Bend

Teton river -

Chayenne river ....

Sarwarcarna river *•-"."

Wetarhoo river -

First Ricara village

Cannon-ball River 72

FORT MANDAN. Here the exploring party of Captains

Lewis and Clark wintered in 1803-4 - 100

Knife river . . . - 6

Miry river ----- 25

Little Missouri .... - 57

Where the waters of Saskashawin approaches nearest the

Missouri river .... 53|1724

YELLOW STONE river. It is not determined which is the

principal stream, the Yellow Stone, or what is now called

Missouri ■'. - - - 120J1844

153
161
172

181
189
196
220
235
239
324
333
341
350
450
464
479
504
512
594
619
828
845
871
941
951
966
983
997
1118
1140

201160

1190
1250
1895
1382
1407
1411
1483

1583
1589
1614
1671

114

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Martha's river

Porcupine river

Little Dry river

Milk river - -

Big river

Bratton's river "

Muscleshell river

Judith river

Slaughter river

Natural walls of Stone

Maria's river

Snow river - ~

Shield's river

Portage river

Great Falls

Head of Falls

Enter Chippewan mountains

Heads of Missouri and Columbia

Mouth of Columbia

60
50
54
45
25
98
57
169
14
26
41
1

964

1904
1964
2018
2063
2088
2186
2243
2412
2427
2452
2493
2511
2539
2546
2541
2554
2584

3548

St. Louis is at 38° 36' N. lat. 12° 58' W. Ion. Mouth of Co-
lumbia 45° 15'N. lat. 47° 57' W. Ion. These two places bear
from each other at an angle from the meridian 73° 28'; consequent-
ly are 73*° 28' N. W., and 73° 28' S. E. respectively distant ; 1713
geographical and 1861 English miles.

The several distances, as given by Messrs Lewis and Clark, are no
doubt over calculated ; their aggregate distance exceeds the direct
line almost two to one, an excess hardly credible. In most instances
where the lengths of rivers have been estimated by persons ascending
their currents, the space passed through has been overrated, and the
error has in most instances borne some proportion to the violence of
the stream.

165

CHAPTER IV.

Our intention was to have confined this chapter to the culture of
the olive tree, but have extended the review to embrace the various
objects of cultivation that have been introduced, or that probably can
be profitably cultivated in the regions contiguous to the estuaries of
the Mississippi and Mobile rivers.

A sketch has been made of the wine countries of Europe, whose
soil and climate have the greatest resemblance to those parts of the
United States where the vine is intended to be introduced. The
reader, on comparing the respective places, can form his own conclu-
sions, how far an anticipation of success can be drawn from the cli-
mate, or the location of the place chosen for the essay.

" That the olive has never yet been brought into general use in
southern Louisiana, excites astonishment. This noble tree from
time immemorial has been the emblem of peace and plenty. The
olive is, perhaps, the first fruit tree that the human species, in times
the most remote, made an object of their care. The olive is, of all
fruits, that one whose uses are most numerous and salutary. This
tree, over an immense range of the eastern continent, has been from
the earliest times considered, like the cereal gramina, indispensably
necessary to human society. Yet this benefaction of heaven has
been in great part denied to America, from the carelessness of some,
and the national avidity of others, amongst the different people who
have planted colonies on this continent."*

Olive.] — It is useless to give an eulogium on this precious tree": " of
all trees this is the first," says Columella. No oil can be compared
to that drawn from its fruit ; the fragments of the seed fatten poultry :
its branches nourish cattle ; and its wood is an excellent fuel. This
tree is rapidly multiplied by the sprouts that arise from its roots •, but
it cannot bear severe frost.

It is believed to have originated from Egypt, from whence it was
transported into Greece ; and the colony of tbe Phoceans, who built
Marseilles, enriched that country with a fruit, to which it was before
a stranger. A colony was afterwards sent from Marseilles, who
built the town of Agde : there is every reason to believe that this

* The great analogy between the climate of the Plateau of New Spain, with
that of Italy, Greece, and southern France, should invite the Mexicans to the
culture of the olive. This culture has been attempted with success, from the
commencement of the conquest ; but the government, by an unjust political
system, far from encouraging, have sought to prevent it indirectly. There are
not, that I know, any formal prohibition, but the colonists have not risked a
serious attention to a branch of national industry, that would have instantly
excited the jealousy of the mother country. Darby's Louisiana, p. 23 L 219.—
Humboldt Essai Fol. S. N. E. Vol. III. p. 149.

t This article is literally translated from an excellent French work, « Cour*
d' Agriculture. Set p. 24 of this treatise.

166 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

latter colony introduced the olive into Languedoc. Let that be as it
may, there is ample proof that the tree is foreign to the south of
France, from its suffering from severe cold : the winter of 1709 de-
stroyed nearly all the olive trees in the kingdom.

The flower is white, small, and of a single piece ; the tube cylin-
drical, the same length as the calycle ; the corolla is smooth, divided
into four, almost oval and something concave; the stamina two, oppo-
site, supported on the corolla, garnished with yellow anthera, one
pistil rising from the bottom of the calycle ; the stamina divided into
two at its summit ; the calycle single leaved, divided into four.

The fruit furrowed, a drupe single seeded, first lisse, then green,
afterwards brown, violet, and lastly, black, following the degree of
maturity : the shell is hard, containing a soft fruit.

The leaves are simple, entire, and lanceolate ; hard, thick, pale
green above, and whitish below, supplied with a sallient nerve pass-
ing entirely through the leaf.

The roots are branching and horizontal, very long. The bark
yellow brown with knobs of a lighter colour than other parts of the
root. The roots often branch from the tree above the surface of the
ground ; it is thought that this peculiarity arises from the earth being
carried away by accident, as it is only seen on hilly places.

The tree is of a moderate size, generally straight and erect. The
bark is smooth when young, furrowed and gcaly when old. The
flower bud shows itself early, often in April, always in May, and
blooms in the end of May or June, according to the particular cli-
mate. The species commonly cultivated differ amongst themselves
in their particular flowering seasons. The flower rises from the bot-
tom of the leaf, disposed in bunches upon a common peduncle or
footstalk.

There is a certain means to succeed in a good classification of the
orchard varieties of the olive. It is necessary, however, that the in-
dividual is sufficiently rich to be able to bear the expense, and young
enough to have time to follow the details of the experiment. Speci-
mens ought to be collected from all the various places where the
olive is cultivated. They ought then to be planted, and their pro-
gress, flowering, and fruit, examined carefully. An exact compari-
son of species would be the first advantage that would result from
this mode ; but a second and much more important would be the
knowledge acquired of the most productive species, and that one
which would best resist the rigours of winter.

If this precaution had been taken, some parts of Languedoc would
not have been deprived of the olive.

Climate and soil suitable to the olive.* — The choice of soil is gene-
rally very indifferent respecting this tree : it is seen flourishing in

* This is certainly the most important question to be determined at present
by us respecting the oliv«. The maimer of planting, expressing the oil, or pre-
serving the fruit, will be best learned from those already experienced on this
subject. If a careful review is taken of the respective climates, and ranges of
hills and mountains of the United States and France, (see p. 22, and sequel of
this treatise,) a very satisfactory estimate can be made, upon how far success
in ihe cultivation of, and the proper place the olive in the latter country can £•
(airly expected to vegetate to most advantage.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE 1G7

rocky, stony, sandy, and volcanignes soil. It is on the latter variety
ot land that the oil is the best. It vegetates also vigorously on strong
alluvial land, though the base is argilaceous.

The more or less prosperity in its vegetation, gives the character
to the fruit and oil, allowance being made for the different species.
It is not then the quality of the soil that need be sought after, when
its simple existence as a tree is the subject of inquiry : it is evident
that this existence arises from other causes.

Ancient writers have contended that the olive can exist more than
thirty leagues from the sea. This assertion may be true relative to
France; but may be considered unfounded relative to all other coun-
tries, where the tree in every other respect is found in places suita-
ble to its growth.

A distance of thirty leagues supposes at once an elevation of soil
above the level of the sea* and consequently, a diminution in the
height of the temperature of the place.

If what has been said on the word agriculture,! on the subject of
basins, is recalled, a solution of this important problem will be evi-
dent. It will be seen that in the bailiwick of l'Aigle in Switzerland,
that the almond, the pomegranate, and vine, grows in open air, and
there enjoys a temperature almost equal to any part of the south of
' France ; whilst in the higher part of the same bailiwick, you find
almost the severity of the climate of Sweden. Bayonne is in 44°
N. lat. ; Carcassonne, Beziers, Montpellier, Marseilles, Aix, Toulon,
and Nice, are on the same degree ; nevertheless, the olive never can
be cultivated at Bayonne, because the shelters are wanting; and be-
cause without these shelters the tree does not find the temperature
suitable to its habitudes. The chain of mountains that traverses Lan-
guedoc from east to west, is only distant from the town of Beziers
seven or eight leagues. The southern foot of those mountains are
charged with olives ; but traverse the mountains in a distance of not
more than two or three leagues, you no more find a shelter against
the north winds, nor do you find the olive tree ; nevertheless this in-
terval is only tenor twelve miles from the sea. J

The existence of the olive, then, depends not upon its relative dis-
tance from the sea, but to the sheltered position in which it is placed.
Every one may have seen in the king's garden at Paris the olive grow-
ing in open air ; but it was there placed on the south side of a close

* It would be impossible for any person, having the most limited knowledge
of the southern parts of the United States, to read the above, without being as-
tonished at the great reserablance between those parts aud the south of Fiance.
The Mississippi, by positively admitting the cold air of the north to pass along its
current, produces the same effect upon the climates of places along its banks,
that is negatively produced by the Pyrenean mountains upon the basin of the
Garonne. The Mobile is the Rhone of North America.

t See page 27.

i The mouth of the Black Warrior, where the French colony has located,
the land granted by the United Slates is about 32^ 30' N. lat., two degrees of
latitude, or nearly one hundred and forty miles distant from the gulf of Mesico.
This place is sheltered from the north by tolerable high hills and a thick
forest ; but as no settlement of long continuance has been made in the valley
pf Mobile so far north, the vicissitudes of the seasons cannot be determined
t*-ith any certainty at present,

m EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

wall, and otherwise in the warmest, part of the garden. It might be,
perhaps, concluded from this example, that if the olive could thus
survive the rigours of winter in the garden, it would do also in other
places. This may vegetate in a languishing state, but is very different
from the vegetation necessary for beneficial culture.* The conclu-
sion drawn from the mere possible existence of the olive, are liable
to produce the same error that would be made, if it was pretended
that the province of Languedoc was as proper for the production of
the orange tree, as Nice, Hieres, Toulon, and lower Rousillon ;
whilst in the former country the orange tree is only cultivated in
some gardens, and near the latter places in open air. Exceptions do
not destroy a general law, and the exceptions themselves, in this case,
lises from favourable situations producing the necessary shelters. The
cultivated orange tree in the foregoing places, grows at the southern
foot of very elevated and steep mountains. But in places where the
necessary shelters are at a distance, neither the orange or olive tree
can exist : this is the real reason why the latter does not grow beyond
Montelimar in advancing north, nor beyond Carcassonne, following
the chain of mountains of lower Languedoc.

The olive demands a shelter from the winds of the north, inde-
pendently of its geographical position.! This is so true, that in
many parts of Provence and Languedoc, where the olive tree is most
abundant, there are considerable surfaces where the tree will not ex-
ist. Upon many farms the tree languishes visibly each year, where
clearing the land has diminished the elevation of the shelter, and
permitted the north winds to breathe their frozen air upon the trees,
formerly protected from their violence. It is not, consequently, the
nearness of the sea that permits the olive to exist, but the particular
shelter that diminishes the injurious effects of the north wind. This
cause is not, however, the only one that permits the existence, or that
aids the growth and production of the olive ; it is necessary to its
prosperity to be situated in a constant, or almost constant mass of heat.
It also derives another advantage from the intervention of the shel-
ters from the north wind. From Nice to Carcasonne, the sheltering
mountains are elevated and compact, and all this border of the

* The cherry tree (prunus cerasus,) has been planted upen the Mississippi,
but does not bear fruit abundantly even upon the high hills of the slate of
Mississippi. The cherry tree adds another to the many existing facts, that fruit
bearing trees maybe reared in places where their produce will not reward the
trouble of their culture. When a given vegetable has been introduced into any
country, only one step is taken in the investigation of the subject of its bene-
ficial cultivation. Darby's Louisiana, 2d Ed. p. 220,

t The facts stated above are much in opposition to an opinion very common,
and even in some measure adopted by the author of this treatise, that vegeta-
bles have a tendency to accommodate themselves to climates to which they
may be transplanted. More experience has, however, led to doubts of the
correctness of this conclusion. If, as the Abbe Rozier states, the olive tree
was introduced into France by the Phoceans, it must have existed there
when his work was published (17S6) 2300 years. From the best accounts ex-
tant, the colony of Greeks that formed Marseilles entered the country about
500 years before the Christian era.

There is no doubt, however, but that the olive tree has existed in the south
of France upwards of 1800 years ; of course, if it is now subject to destructiot
by frost, it must have received but little alteration in this long period.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 109

kingdom lies directly opposite to the coast of Africa. It is from that
cause that the southern air is retained, concentrated, and produces an
atmosphere most suitable to the full developement of the olive tree
and its fruit. The heat is much more intense than if it was freely
permitted to advance farther north.* The Pyrenees prove, beyond
contradiction, the correctness of the theory advanced. If a line
north and south is drawn through France from Africa, intersecting
the eastern extremity of the Pyreaees, it will leave the olive tree en-
tirely to the east ; because though the north side of the Pyrenees
is in part sheltered from the north, the intensity of the heat is less
than in front of the Mediterranean, since the former place is deprived
of the air of Africa, or if received, it is after the heat is decomposed
in passing the summits of the Pyrenees, charged with snow nine or
ten months in each year. This African air extends its influence to
Montelimar. Ascending the Rhone from the sea, the different moun-
tains are not of sufficient elevation or compactness to decompose or
arrest the passage of the heat ; but beyond Montelimar and on the
opposite side of the Rhone,, rises a chain of mountains that has there
the same effects produced by the Pyrenees, after passing Carcas-
sonne to Toulouse.

It appears to me that it is demonstrated that in France the pros-
perity of the olive tree depends upon the foregoing circumstances.
If the tree succeeds better in other countries and in ether climates,
the effect ought to be attributed to more favourable situations, arising
from approach to the south, or to more complete shelter. The olive
dreads cold, but how far heat is congenial to it, has never been de-
termined. The Spaniards have transported a species of the olive to
Lima, and the frnit has increased to twice or three times the size it
had in France. We are assured that in South Carolina,! plantations
of olives have already succeeded ; from which we may conclude, that
it depends upon the inhabitants themselves of the warm parts of Ame-
rica to multiply the olive tree.

M. Barthez, in his collections of the agricultural memoirs for that
part of the kingdom on the coast of the Mediterranean, induces a
hope that this tree may be introduced into the interior of France. I
breathe the same hope with all my heart, but I strongly doubt the suc-
cess. Admit we have in the interior very excellent sheltered situa-
tions from high and majestic mountains ; but we have not there the
warm air of Africa ; its heat is decomposed and lost in passing over

* This is the true cause why, in the same latitude, the valley of the Mobile
is more temperate than that of the Mississippi, or the Province of Texas.

t We have not been able to obtain any certain documents respecting the
cultupe of the olive in Carolina and Georgia. Mr. Hugh M'Call, in his history
of Georgia, mentions indigo, but not the olive, as being introduced into that
country before 1756.

In an excellent work entitled " an historical account of the rise and progress
of the colonies of South Carolina and ©eorgia," published in London, 1779, the
olive tree is not enumerated amongst the cultivated vegetables of the country.

The United States having been peopled from the British Islands, where but-
ter was used for the same purposes to which olive oil is appropriated in the
south of Europe, the people have neglected, and continue to neglect a cul-
ture, to the detail and benefits of which they are strangers, and attend to the
production of that article, to tho use of which they are habituated.
22

HO EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the cold top?. The southern winds produce two opposite effects, fol-
lowing the humidity or dryness with which they are charged from
the state of the mountain over which they have passed, at the time of
their passage. We may take the Pyrenees for example. If this
chain is covered with snow, the south winds passing over it are no
longer warm, they are ever extremely cold. Daily experience
proves the correctness of this assertion ; where this chain is clear ot
snow, if it is still humid the south wind is moist and cold. If, on the
contrary, there has been no rain or snow on these mountains for any
considerable time, the heat becomes violent, so much so, as often to
wither, and even dry the leaves of the trees and vines. The same
phenomenon takes place relative to the chain that traverses Langue-
doc. The inhabitants of the maritime towns, south of this chain, ex-
perience violent, and even very violent heat, in times when the
north wind blows, if the summits of the mountains are then dry ; but
if they are humid, freshness prevails. As to the inhabitants to the
north of the latter chain, they experience the same vicissitudes as do
those north of the Pyrenees. All this is annually proved. Thus in
rising from the south to the north, and following the order and disposi-
tion of the mountains, the elevation of the base augments, and the
same winds have intrinsically less activity, since they have lost part
of their heat in passing from mountain to mountain. It may be said,
perhaps, that the heat of the south wind ought to augment in passing
over dry mountains, but the base of this proposition is unfounded.
The south parts and the interior of France are very different. In the
former, the heavens are almost without clouds in summer, and it rains
very seldom ; on the contrary, in the interior it rains frequently, and
each rain superinduces cold from the evaporation that follows. From
hence, there is not in the interior of the kingdom, either the conti-
nuity or intensity of heat suitable to the olive. During severe win-
ters, the vines in the sheltered places in the interior suffer from cold,
and often perish; what would then be the fate of the olive ?

Notwithstanding the shelters, the olive tree does not, in Langue-
doc and Provence, flower before the end of May, or beginning of
June, and its fruit is not ripe before November or December,* which
supposes that the intensity must be exactly suitable, even in the climates
most favourable to the olive ; since as soon as the shelter is wanting,
even in the neighbourhood of places where it flourishes, the tree falls a
victim to the cold.

All the waters of the kingdom flow from the centre of the king-
dom into either the Mediterranean or the ocean ; consequently the
centre is more elevated than the extremity. Whatever favourable
circumstances may be united in any one place in the interior, that
one of all others most necessary must be wanting— suitable and con-
tinued heat.

* From Ibis it appears tbat the period betwoea the flower and the fruit of the
olive, is about 1»0 days, or one-third more than eastwards, between planting
and commencing to gather cotton, and very near coeval with the time that
elapses between planting and ripening sugar cane. From vegetable analogy,
we may then very rationally conclude, that the olive and sugar will exist to-
gether, or rather in similar climates.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 171

I am unable to say if the result of my observations on the effects
of cold will answer in all the olive districts of France, but will an-
swer for their correctness near Beziers, at least during seven years
that I resided near that place.*

1°. The cold felt in the month of January, every thing else equal,
is not so injurious to the olive as those that follow in the course of
February, more so towards the end of that month, and still worse
in the beginning of filarch. Frost of about eight days continuance
happen sometimes, but not often, in January. As soon as the frost
ceases, or during its intervals, the mass of heat is from four to six
degrees of Reaumer's thermometer during the day, and from three
to four in the night. From four to six may be considered the mean
term, because often when south winds prevaii, the beat is from eight
to ten d -Trees of Reaumer.

Frost is here only produced by the north-northwest wind, a direc-
tion given to the winds by their striking the Black mountains. When
these mountains are charged with snow, as well as those in front of
Beziers, the air passing over them is rendered cold, and carries frost
to Beziers, where it never freezes, unless when those mountains are
covered with snow.

2°. If there is not severe frost in January, the fields exhibit a
rapid advance of vegetation ; the elder (sureaux) and several other
hasty shrubs put out their leaves ; the violets are in flower ; vege-
tation is renewed, and even the almond flourishes. The advance of
the season is particularly visible in the olive, which is more vigorous
during the whole season than ordinary, if not again interrupted by
frost. Under the common changes of the air from heat to cold, the
surface of the earth retains a part of the heat, and contributes to the
flow of the sap.

3°. If frost happens in February, and is severe, attended with vio-
lent winds, it then produces severe effects upon the olive ; but if the
frost is not attended with violent winds, it produces less effect upon
the olive, because attended with less evaporation.

4°. If the frost follows after a rain, and particularly if followed by
snow and wind, its effects are terrible on the olive. In this case tue
olive tree is in a similar state with a man's arm, which if exposed to
a stream of air from a bellows, and upon which ether would be
continually dropped, the arm would be frozen stiff even in the dog-

* There is no subject upon which the common herd of tourists pronounce
their opinions more hastily than upon climate; and ignorant as they are on all
subjects in most cases, there is none upon which they are less qualified to
judge correctly than upon climate. Travelling rapidly often in the night,
never remaining long enough in any place to gain even a tolerable knowledge
of the topography of a country, much less of its climate.

Every country, like every man, has its own peculiar temper and construc-
tion tht.t cannot be known, except by long end intimate acquaintance. Few
persons possess either the preparatory science or patience to examine carefully
the topographical features of any region of the earth, and from that source ex-
plain the causes of the variations perceptible between places, that to superficial
observers ought to present similar phenomena. In thr.t part cf the United
States to which this chapter is applicable, there are, on the same line of latitude,
liiiree distinct climates. (Seepage SI of thistrsatise .)

172 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

days. The current of air, by exciting evaporation, aids the effects
of the cold in both cases.

My reasons for making these observations is to prove that the
olive cannot be made to exist in the interior of the kingdom ; and
that it is useless to think of cultivating the tree in places where
there is not a single place in which there does not happen, once in
six or seven years, a frost of at least ten degrees of Returner, pre-
ceded by rain and snow. I have good reason to assert that Provence
and Langucdoc, and a part of low Daupbiny, is endowed by nature
with a privilege that the inhabitants of the other parts of the king-
dom may envy, but can never obtain. ■»

It is frequently repeated, that the olive grows best on the south
slopes of hills ; this proposition is true in general, because the in-
clination of the soil augments the refraction of the rays of "the sun,
and consequently the heat; but if the plain is well sheltered, as it
is from Nice to Toulon, the olive will succeed much better than on
the hills, because the tree finds in the latter a deeper soil, more
charged with vegetable and animal matter, since the surface of the
plains is formed by the ruins of the hill, borne down by rains.

The great point is shelter, and that shelter that retains the great-
est quantity of heat. The soil of itself only contributes to the beau-
ty of the tree, or to the quality of the* oil relatively to the species of
tree, or grain of the earth. It is the shelter that secures the duration
of the olive, and defends it against its most cruel enemy and only
destroyer, the cold ; because it is only the cold that prevents us from
giving the title of immortal to this tree.

There are yet seen between Toulon and Nice beautiful olive trees
that escaped the dreadful winter of 1709.

Why the olive succeeds better in rocky, stony, or sandy land, than
in argillaceous hard soil, is, because the rocks, stone, and sand ac-
cumulate more heat, and preserve it longer than does argillaceous, or
chalky land ; and the sap from the former is less abundant, more pure,
and more refined, than from more humid soil. For the same reason
aromatic herbs have more rich perfume in rocky, or sandy, than in
low, rich soil. It is the same with vines. Wherever trees imbibe a
too abundant sap, their fruits are defective in quality. You here see
the entire effect of the grain of the earth upon the quality of the
fruits. It is the same with the olive as with all other fruits, and even
all legumes.

The following account of the olive is extracted, verbatim, from
Miller's Gardner's Dictionary, a deservedly esteemed work ; and as
the directions for planting and preserving the tree was wrote for the
climate of England, they may be of great use to any person desirous
to make experiments on the culture of the olive in America in places
where, from the rigour of the seasons, the tree would demand pe-
culiar care.

*If tl»»s is correct, the frost and wind tha{ was experienced in the beginning
of April, 1814, at QpelonsaSj would have destroyed the olive tree. The ilowers
and (lie branches of the pride oi" India, of the liecel, and evea of the oaks, wera
killed

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 173

Olive — characters are ; it has a small tubulous empalement (calyx) of
one leaf, cut into four segments at the top. The flower cojisisls of one
petal which is tubulous, and cut at the brims into four segments, which
spread open. It has two short stamina terminated by erect summits,
and a roundish germen supporting a short single style, crowned by a
thick bifid stigma. The germen afterwards turns to an oval, smooth
fruit, lor berry,) with one cell, enclosing an oblong oval nut.

This genus of plants is ranged in Tournefort's second section of
his twentieth class, which includes the trees and shrubs, with a
fiower of one petal, whose pointel turns to a fruit with a hard nut.

The species are,

It. OLEA, folw lineari'lanceolatis subius incanis. Olive with li-
near spear, shaped leaves, which are hoary on their under side. This
is the olea fraciu ohlongo minori* olive with a smaller oblong fruit,
commonly called Provence olive.

2. OLEA, foliis lanceolalis, fructu ovato. Olive with spear shaped
leaves and egg shaped fruit. This is the oleafructu maximo. Olive
with the largest fruit, commonly called Spanish olive.

The first frost is what the inhabitants of the south of France chiefly
cultivate, because from this species the best oil is made, which is a
great branch of trade in Provence and Languedoc ; and it is the
fruit of this sort which is most esteemed when pickled. Of this there
are some varieties ; the fruit is called olive pichoiine : there is ano-
ther with smaller and rounder fruit ; but these are supposed to be
only accidental varieties, which have arisen from the same seeds. I
have not enumerated them.

The olive seldom rises to a large tree, and is rarely seen with a sin-
gle stem, but frequently two or three stems rise from the same root ;
these grow from twenty to thirty feet high, putting out branches from
their sides almost their whole length, which are covered with a gray
bark, and garnished with stiff leaves about two inches and a half long,
and half an inch broad in the middle, gradually diminishing to both
eads. They are ©f a lively green on their upper side, and hoary un-
der, standing by pairs opposite. The flowers are produced in i-mall
branches from the wings of the leaves ; they are small, white, and
hav^short tubes spreading open at the top ; these are succeeded by
oval fruit, which in warm countries ripen in autumn.

The second sort is chiefly cultivated in Spain, where the trees
grow to a much larger size than the former sort ; the leaves are much
Targer and not so white on the under side ; and the fruit is near twice
the size of the Provence olive, but are of a strong rank flavour ; and
the oil made from these is too strong for most English palates.

Both these sorts are preserved in the gardens of the curious, but
they are rather too tender to thrive in open air : in the neighbour-
hood of London, where they are sometimes planted against walls, and
with a little protection in very severe frost, they are maintained pret-
ty well ; but in Devonshire there are some of those trees, which have
grown in the open air many years, and are seldom injured by the
frost ; but the summers are not warm enough to bring the fruit

* Tournefort, Inst. R, H, 699, Ibid, 599,

174 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

to maturity. There were several of these trees planted against
a warm wall at Cambden house near Kingston, which succeeded very
well, till their tops were advanced above the wall, after which they
were generally killed in winter, so far down as the top of the wall.*

The olive was considered by the ancients as a maritime tree, and
they supposed it would not thrive at any distance from the sea ; but
by experience, we find they will succeed very well in any country
where the air is of a proper temperature of heat, though the trees are
found to bear the spray of the sea better than most other sorts.

In Languedoc and Provence, where the olive tree is greatly culti-
vated, they propagate it by truncheons split from the roots of the
trees ; for as these trees are frequently hurt by hard frosts in winter,
so when their tops are killed, they send up several stalks from the
root ; and when these are grown pretty strong, they separate them
with an axe from the root ; in the doing of which they are careful to
preserve a few roots (radicles or fibres) to the truncheons. These are
cut off in the spring, after the danger of frost is over, and planted about
two feet deep in the ground, covering the surface with biltter, or
mulch, to prevent the sun and wind from penetrating and drying the
ground. When the plants have taken new root, they are careful to
stir the ground and destroy the weeds.

This tree will grow in almost any soil ; but when? it is planted
in rich moist ground, they grow larger and make a finer appearance
than in poor land ; but the fruit is of less esteem, because the oil
made from it is as that which is produced in a leaner soil. The
chalky ground is esteemed the best for these trees, and the oil which
is made from the trees growing upon that sort of land, is much finer
and will keep longer than the other.

In the countries where the inhabitants are curious in the making of
their oil, they are frequently obliged to get truncheons of the ordina-
ry sort of olives to plant ; but after they have taken good root, they
graft them with the sort of olive which they prefer to the other. In
Languedoc they chiefly propagate the carmeau, and the amphoulan,
and moureau, which are three varieties of the first speeies : but in
Spain the second sort is generally cultivated, where they have more
regard to the size of the fruit and the quantity of oil they will pro-
duce, than to their quality.

If the culture of these trees was well understood by (be inhabitants
of Carolina, and properly pursued, it might become a valuable branch
of trade to them ; for there is no reason to doubt of their succeeding,

* This fact is decisive as to the effect of shelters upon vegetables. Hills, fnoun-
tains, and thick forests, are, on the large scale, what walls, buildings, and hedges,
are in miniature. The prominent features of the circumjacent country cannot be
too carefully examined, when the introduction of a tender vegetable is intend-
ed. In experiments, too much care is in common expended upon vegetable
itself. It is the cause why in so many instances essays perfectly satisfactory
on a small scale, entirely fail when brought to practical use in extensive ex-
periments.

Every vegetable upon which essays are made, ought to be planted as near as
possible in a similar situation to where, of consequence, it must be placed when
brought to use. There have been many deceptions in respect to sugar cane,
wising from UmttenUon to this very siugie and almost obvious rule,

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 175

the summers there being hot enough to ripen the fruit to its utmost
perfection.

In this country (England) the plants are only preserved by way
of curiosity, and are placed in winter in the green-house for variety.
So I shall next give an account of the method by which they are here
propagated, with the manner of treatment.

The plants may be propagated by laying down their tender
branches, (in the manner practised for other trees.) which should re-
main undisturbed two years, in which time they will have taken root,
and may then be taken off from the old plants, and transplanted
either into spots filled with fresh light earth, or in the open ground
in a warm situation. The best season for transplanting them is in
the beginning of April, when you should, if possible, take the oppor-
tunity of a moist season ; and those which are planted in spots
should be placed in a shady part of the green-house, until they have
taken root ; but those planted in the ground should have mulch laid
about their roots, to prevent the earth from drying too fast, and now
and then refreshed with water; but you must by no means let them
have too much moisture, which will rot the tender fibres of the roots
and destroy the trees. When the plants have taken fresh root, those
in the spots may be exposed to the open air, with other hardy exo-
tics, with which they should be housed in winter, and treated like
myrtles and other less tender trees and shrubs ; but those in the open
air will require no farther care until the winter following, when you
should mulch the ground about their roots, to prevent the frost from
penetrating deep into it ; and if the frost prove very severe, you
should cover them with mats, which will defend them from being in-
jured thereby ; but you must be cautious not to let the mats continue
over them after the frost is past, lest by keeping them too close, their
leaves and tender branches should turn mouldy for want of fresh air,
which will be of as bad consequence to the trees as if they had been
exposed to the frost, and many times worse ; for it seldom happens,
if they have taken much of this mould, or have been long covered,
so that it has entered the bark, that they are ever recoverable again ;
whereas it often happens, that the frost only destroys the tender
ghoots ; but the body and larger branches remaining unhurt, put out
again the succeeding spring.

It will appear demonstrated, from what has been given to this trea-
tise, that as far as ripening their fruit is concerned, that the vine and
olive may be both introduced into the southern parts of the United
States ; but there is another very important problem that remains
unsolved — how far the stems and roots of those trees can support the
rigours of the winters of Alabama and the state of Louisiana.

As respects the effects of frost upon their fibres, vegetables may be
divided into classes :

1°. Those shrubs and other plants whose leaves remain undestruc-
tible by ordinary frost. The most remarkable of these are, the pines,
firs, cedars, most laurels, and in the United States, the live oak, and
large reed cane, arundo gigantea.

2°. Those vegetables whose leaves perish, and generally fall to
the ground by frost ; but whose stems or trunks remain uninjured, ansf.

176 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

annually protrude new leaves and branches. In this class is included
by far the greatest part of forest trees and shrubs.

3°. Vegetables, whose leaves and stems perish by the action of
frost; but whose roots, protected by the earth, remain uninjured, and
annually produce new stalks, leaves and flowers.

4°. Those plants which are destroyed entirely by frost, or which
otherwise perish in-less than a year, and the species of whom are
annually renewed from seed.

5°. To the above may be added a fifth class of plants, which have
a stated existence of one or more years, and then perish, influenced
by external causes.

In the third class is the sugar cane, and that species of cotton cul-
tivated in the United States. In the fourth class are all our most va-
luable culinary vegetables ; wheat, rye, maize, oats, barley, rice ; a\l
cultivated plants of the papilionaceous tribe, beans, pease, and lu-
pines ; both species of potatoes, and all the species of pumpioas,
squashes, gourds, melons, and cucumbers.

Cotton, though replanted annually in the United States, its roots
can be made to survive the winters of Louisiana, Alabama, and Geor-
gia. Very little protection is necessary to permit the principle of
life being perpetuated through the winter, but if thus renewed, we
are unacquainted how long the vegetable would continue to exist by
this mode.

Sugar cane is, on the Mississippi, cultivated by laying the stalk in
furrows, and from the joints new stems arise. The body of the plant,
though more tender than that of cotton, its roots are more hardy, and
easier protected from the frost. A slight covering is sufficient to guard
the roots during winter ; and in this manner the plant is reared two or
three years, when it is generally renewed by layers.

Did not the cotton and sugar yield their respective products annu-
ally, and if a perpetuity of their stems were necessary, neither could
be cultivated in the United States.

The flower and fruit of the olive are placed very nearly in the
same state as the entire stems of the sugar cane and cotton. With-
out considering the trunks of the two former, we may view the life
of these four vegetables as gradually approaching each other./ It wiij
be seen, by comparison, that the time from planting to the ripening of
sugar cane, and from the blossom to the ripe fruit of the olive, is very
nearly equal ; and if the soil necessary for sugar cane and the olive
tree were similar, the two vegetables would be easily cultivated to-
gether. This, however, not being the case, the former, demanding
a deep loam, will always be confined in extent, whilst the latter, grow-
ing indifferently upon all soils, may be propagated wherever the air
is sufficiently warm and steady to admit its growth.

The orange tree, though an evergreen, is tender, and yields to frost
at a cold but little more severe than necessary to destroy sugar cane ;
it will not exist much above the latter plant, and not so far north as
even the olive.

The vise and cotton will accompany each other. Where the sum-
mers are sufficiently long to admit the latter to perfect its fruit, the

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 177

former may also ; but (be winters may destroy tbe vines in places
where, from reasons already shown, tbe cotton may be cultivated.

It will appear obvious, that to determine whether any vegetable
can be transplanted from one given place to another, that four things
are necessary to be known, and when once determined, the problem
is solved without the expense of actual experiment. If, for example,
the valley of Mobile, Provence in the south of France, and the olive
tree are taken as examples.

1°. The extremes between frosts in the respective places, or, in
other words, the length of the absolute summers.

2°. The intensity of their winters, and the ordinary quantity of
frost and snow.

3°. The summer life, or more explicitly the time between the
flower and ripe fruit of the olive.

4°. The degree of cold at which the tree perishes.

If it was found that more days intervened in the Valley of Mobile,
between spring and autumn frosts, than did between the blooming of
the flower and ripening of the fruit ; and if it was also determinedi
that the frost of the Mobile Valley was less intense than those that de-
stroyed the olive tree, then all apprehension of danger from a change
of climate would vanish.

The same rule holds good respecting all other vegetables.

The decadence of vegetables is often an evil almost equal to their
entire destruction. This deteiioration frequently rises from a cause
mostly overlooked. Amongst the modes of perpetuating the species
of vegetables, nature admits of one not common to the animal king-
dom.

Most trees, sugar cane, all bulbous, and most tuberous rooted vege-
tables, may be continued and multiplied without seed. Branches of
trees and the stems of sugar cane will vegetate, if placed in the earth
at proper times, and produce trees and stems in all respects similar to
the parent stock. Potatoes are constantly produced in the same man-
ner ; but this is merely multiplying the branches of the individual ;
the absolute species cannot be renewed except from seed.

All vegetables having their periods of increase, duration, and de-
cline, cannot be made to exist beyond a certain length of time. Na-
ture seems to have admitted but one certain mode of perpetuating
life indefinitely ; a recurrence to the fountain of existence. When it
is mentioned that any tree is multiplied by layers, it ought not to ex-
cite wonder that the individuals languish and perish. That species
of poplar cultivated in tbe United States under the vulgar name ot
Lombardy poplar, belongs to the 22d class dioecia of Linnaeus, or
trees having male and female flowers on different trees. Only the
male tree exists in the United States ; the individuals are formed from
branches, and is no doubt one cause of the languishing and wretched
appearance of this tree in most places where it exists in the United
Sates.

The olive, cherry, apple, and peach are all capable of being thus"
produced, and all must submit to the laws of nature. Sprouts from
23

178 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the roots differ in nothing essentially from the highest twig. If each
%vere planted in the same orchard, if taken from the same tree, their
produce would be similar in quality.

Potatoes exhibit the same phenomena, and though, comparatively
uith their rapid growth, their decadence is more slow, it is not less
ceitain.

After those vegetables necessary to human subsistence, the most
important that man has appropriated to his use is COTTON. There
is no known vegetable capable of being brought to perfection on so
great variety of soil. Being brought from within the tropics, its fibres
arc tender, but its growth is rapid. The great value of cotton will
justify some detail respecting planting, produce, and price.

The time of planting cotton varies with the particular climate. In
the neighbourhood of New-Orleans it is planted early in April ; at
Natchez, and on Reel river, about the middle of that month ; in Ten-
nessee and Missouri Territory, about the first of May. The cotton, in
the first stages of its growth, is a remarkably tender plant ; the slight-
est frost destroys it, and even cold rains sensibly check its growth.
It is planted either in drills or squares ; the former is generally consi-
dered the most productive mode.

In all cases a much greater quantity of seed is planted than is sup-
posed to produce stalks. The number of stalks permitted to remain,
depends upon the strength of the soil ; but from the branching nature
of the plant, the stalks are, on every kind of land, left at a very con-
siderable distance from each other.

The manner of planting, ploughing, hoeing and weeding cotton,
differs but little from the same necessary routine of labour in cultiva-
ting maize. The former, from its humbler height, suffers more from
weeds than the latter. Cotton is also in its first stages much more
slow of growth than maize.

The time that elapses from planting to the commencement of ga-
thering cotton, does not vary very much from four months, or about
one hundred and twenty days. If the extremes between the spring
and fall frosts of any given place are ascertained, its fitness for the
culture of cotton is determined. It has been observed in this treatise,
and may be again repeated, that cotton will grow upon every variety
of land upon which any useful vegetable can be cultivated.

The botanical characters of the cotton are curious to those unac-
quainted with the family to which it belongs. Upon the same stalk
are seen, at the same time, the fruit and flowers in all stages of vege-
tation. Like other plants of the class Monodelphia, such as holly-
hock, marsh mallows, ockra, and hibiscus, cotton continues to pro-
duce flowers as long as frost permits. Of the flowers, most common
in the northern states, the large while holly hock resembles the her-
baceous cotton of Louisiana most.

Cotton grows with an upright herbaceous stalk, from which are
irregularly protruded a number of stems. The flowers are produced
upon the stalks, and are followed by an oval, green, pointed capsule,
with three cells, in which are enclosed a number of seeds, enveloped
in the soft silky down, that has been appropriated by man to so many

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 179

uses of convenience and elegance. The down adheres to the seed
with great tenacity, but is easily detached from the capsule.

Gathering the cotton is entirely done by the hand, and demands
great care in the operation. A circumstance in the natural history of
cotton, contributes to render its collection, free of dead leaves, diffi-
cult and tedious. Its calyx is an abiding peryanth, which often be-
comes dry long before the cotton ripens, and enveloping the capsule,
its broken fragments are very liable to be dragged out with the cotton.
The black specks seen in most cotton are pieces of the peryanth,
intermingled in this manner with the down.

The capsule of cotton continues about the size of a pigeon's egg,
until nearly the time of ripenieg the seed, when the sutures of the
capsule open, and expose the snow-white down. The down appears
to be a provision of nature for the protection of the seed, and as in all
known cases of the same kind, comes to full perfection before the
fruit. From this reason it arises, that frost annually destroys an im-
mense quantity of seed, wiihout materially injuring the down, in
which this seed is enveloped.

The quantity of cotton that can be made upon, and collected from
an acre, differs greatly. Below 33° north latitude, one thousand
weight is considered about a medium. The relative weight of seed
and down is about three-fourths of the latter, to one-fourth of the
former ; therefore, two hundred and fifty lbs. of clean cotton would
be the medium produce of an acre.

A labourer will cultivate, with ease, more than twice as much cot-
ton as he can collect. There is no manual labour done by man,
where the quantum that is performed by different men, of equal
strength, differs so greatly as picking cotton. The ordinary amount
allowed for a day's labour, is between fifty and sixty pounds : two
hundred has been collected by one person in one day. The author
has seen children collect into baskets more cotton than they were
able to carry to the place of deposit. It may indeed be justly consi-
dered as one of the excellencies of the culture of cotton, that in its
collection no manual labour is lost. Neither age nor childhood, if in
health, is prevented from giving its aid in this innocent and useful pur-
suit. Children from eight years old can be employed to advantage.

At Natchez, and south of that place, the gathering season begins
about the first of September, and continues, in an ordinary season,
between three and four months. Allowing for stormy weather, Sun-
days, and other interruptions, ninety days is about a medium harvest ;
and allowing an average for forty lbs. per day, will give 4500 lbs. as
the amount that one person will collect in a season. This quantity
has been exceeded but seldom, particularly if the number of hands on
the farms were numerous. There is always a decrement of produce
following the increase of labourers.

The bale varies in weight : 320 lbs. is about a medium. That
farm produces well, where three and ahalf bales of this size are
made to each hand ; four such bales is an excellent crop. It
must be understood, however, that the same labourers raise maize,
potatoes, and other vegetables for nourishment. From the ability of

.80 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

cultivating more cotton than can be collected by the same labour-
ers, leisure is given to cultivate also vegetables for food.

Cotton seed has generally been thrown away, or suffered to remain
■ — a disgusting nuisance about the cotton gins ; it has sometimes been
used as a manure, for which purpose it is excelled.

That the neglect of cotton seed is an useless and wanton waste of
wealth'; cannot be doubted. The quantity of oil that might be taken
from the seed would reimburse, at no great additional expense, the
planter; throwing it to waste, is as ill judged as it would be to pour
out on the earth the molasses from a sugar house.

The enlightened society in Great Britain, instituted at London,
for the encouragement of arts, manufactures and commerce, amongst
other objects of their attention, have, at different times, offered pre-
miums for samples of cotton seed oil.

In 1783, the society* being informed that a considerable quantity
of oil can be obtained from seeds of cotton, and that after the expres-
sion of the oil, the remaining cake will afford a strong and hearty
food for cattle ; and that the apparatus for the operation can be ap-
plied to the mill for sugar canes, and worked in the rainy season, at
a moderate expense, " have resolved, for the foregoing reasons, that
the procuring oil from the seed of cotton is a proper object of a pre-
mium, considered as an encouragement for planters to extend the cul-
tivation of cotton, an article essentially necessary to increase the
manufacture of that article in this country."

" The society therefore offers as follows :

«< OIL FROM COTTON SEEDS. To the Planters in any of the
British Islands of the West Indies, who shall express oil from the seed
of cotton, and make from the remaining seed, hard and dry cakes, as
food for cattle ; the gold medal.

" Certificates, that not less than one ton of the oil has been express-
ed, and five hundred weight of the cakes obtained, to be produced
to the society with two gallons of the oil, and two dozen of the cakes,
together with a full account of the process, on or before the last Tues-
day in November, 1785.

" For the next greatest quantity, not less than half a ton of oil, and
two hundred weijht of the cakes ; the silver medal."

This certificate was renewed in 1784, '85, '86, '87, '88, '89, vide,
vol. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, of the Transactions of the Society.

This quotation is introduced here to show, that the practicability of
making oil from cotton seed, is not a recent discovery. It does
not appear that, between 1783 and 1789, the Society of Arts
obtained any samples of either the oil or cake. Their certificate
exhibits the liberality of the society, but it is evident the members
did not comprehend the subject very clearly. Demanding so large
a quantity as a ton^of oil, rendered all experiment abortive, as far as
their premium extended, where a less quantity would have been pro-
duced. AH the necessary details, and what is every thing in such
cases, the quantity of oil to a given weight of seed, and the mean

* Vol. I. page 251, sfc. 175.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 181

expense of extraction, could have been determined by a process
where only a few hundred gallons, or less, of oil would have been
made. Whether the cake, or refuse, after the oil is pressed out, is of
any value or not, seems to be of very little consequence. If the oil,
after the expense of pressing and barrelling, is of sufficient value to
justify an attention to its production, is the only desideratum.

The quantity of oil that cotton seed will give, has never been de-
termined with sufficient accuracy to enable us to state its relative pro-
duction, with that of the down, to any certain degree of accuracy. If
the estimate made by Mr. Niles* of the quantity of clean cotton,
made in the United States in 1816, is correct, there must, have
been produced in that year, 125 million pounds of cotton wool.
The proportion of clean cotton "wool to that of the crude mass, in-
cluding the seed, has been found very nearly as one to four. Per-
sons holding cotton gins are obliged to deliver one lb. of clean cotton
for every four lbs. of the mass in seed, for which their receipts are
given. U this proportion is correct, and no result seems better
proved, and the estimate of Mr. Niies is also received as accurate,
then 375,000,000 lbs. of cotton seed "was wasted in 1816. If one
hundred pounds of seed is allowed to produce one gallon of oil, this
mass of seed would have produced 3,750,000 gallons of oil, which
at 12 1-2 cents per gallon, would amount to $468,750.

That this estimate is very much under- rated there is no doubt. It
appears certain, that an annual sum of not less than a half million of
dollars is thus supinely wasted.

There is no other wealth than human labour, and its products are
too painfully obtained to justify or excuse their wilful loss. The
cotton seed in bulk, near the giis, is an intolerable nuisance, as re-
spects its smell and appearance. Hogs and cows devour it with
great avidity. So much down, however, remains upon the seed, that
it frequently destroys the former kind ef animal. When the seed
remaiHS some time in bulk, if exposed to rains, the down rots, and
leaves the seed a nutricious food, particularly for hogs.

From the data given above, any person, by knowing the manual
force at his command, can calculate in a few moments the prospect
of gain by removing into a cotton district. The tables, page 9, of
this treatise, exhibits the relative value of five staples, sugar, cotton,
rice, tobacco, and Indigo, but does not determine the respective
value of those staples, and that of grain, or any other product of the
middle, northern, or eastern states. Any person knowing his reve-
nue from the latter, can, with mathematical precision, calculate the
benefits of change to the cultivation of the former.

One-fourth of the amount is allowed for the expense of cleaning
cotton from the seed, the purchase of duck, and cordage, and trans-
portation to market. From individual experience the author of this
treatise is fully convinced, that this is an ample allowance, if taken
generally.

A description of the machinery made use of to free the down from
the seed, would be unsatisfactory ; it is sufficient to say, that the gins

* See page 125.

182 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

and presses are now brought to great perfection. The neatness and
facility with which the various operations are now performed, com-
pared with the slow, clumsy, and laborious process used fifteen years
ago, is a compliment paid to the progress of the afts most essentially
necessary to mankind.

Another vegetable, the okra, of the same class and order with cot-
ton, is cultivated in Louisiana as an article of food. The flower and
stalk of this plant have great resemblance to the holly hock, but grows
higher. The seed vessel is a long pointed, many seeded capsule,
which, when young, is tender and mucilaginous. This is the part
used as food : mixed with soup and otherwise, it is considered ex-
tremely wholesome.

Sugar, in places where it can be cultivated, will always, in the Uni-
ted States, be considered the most important staple. The extent of
country upon which this vegetable can be reared, is so limited as to
much abridge its general value. The surface upon which it can be
produced, and the quantity and price of sugar, have already been
fully exhibited in this treatise.

Rice can be cultivated much more extensively than sugar cane ;
its net proceeds, however, when reared as a staple, is much less than
from the latter plant. When produced as an article of food for
home consumption, rice differs very little, if any, from maize. The
quantity of sustenance that can be produced from the same sum of
human labour, when exerted upon either of these two plants, is very
nearly equal.

One peculiarity oi rice will confer upon it an increasing value ; as
lands become scarce, and consequently dear, it can be successfully
and profitably produced on lands unfit for cultivation of most other useful
vegetables. Low land, if the soil is naturally fertile, can often be
brought into use by planting rice, upon which neither sugar cane nor
maize would vegetate.

Tobacco can be cultivated commensurate with maize, and far more
extensively than cotton. Many very serious objections exist against
tobacco as a staple. Its culture injures the soil more than any other
known vegetable, and when produced, it is utterly useless for any
purpose of subsistence, or other application to the real wants of man-
kind. The ordinary interruptions in commerce must fall much more
severely upon a people who cultivate tobacco, than upon those who
cultivate grain, or even cotton or sugar.

The same objections will apply to indigo as to tobacco, and with
almost as much force. Indigo admits of at least one real application,
however, to the ornament, if not to the real necessities of mankind ;
and therefore possesses, what tobacco does not, one quality to redeem
its culture from the reproach of being a pernicious encroachment upon
the beneficial application of human labour.

The cereal gramma* are now particularly and may be all produced

* Literally, bread-grass, or grasses from whose seed bread is made The
most valuable of these plants cultivated in the United States are wheat, rye,
maize, oats, barley, and rice. Buckwheat (polygonum fagopyrum) though a

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 183

within the limits we have been reviewing, to any assignable extent.
Wheat, maize, rye, oats, barley, and rice, are by far the most im-
portant plants yet brought into use by mankind. One or more of
these vegetables have nourished the human race in all ages and in all
stages of society. When a comparison is drawn between the positive
value, or the real benefits to mankind of wheat, or maize, and the same
species of even sugar cane or cotton, the latter shrink to almost no-
thing. Custom induces us to undervalue what we are in the habit of
using daily.

Next to the cerealia in the United States are the two kinds of po-
tatoes. Two tuberous rooted vegetables of very different botanical
characters, have received the name of potato. These two vegeta-
bles very seldom acquire the full developement of their growth in the
same place. They present one of the many instances, showing that
where one useful vegetable declines, another, whose qualities answer
the same purposes, offers itself. The grape and apple, maize and
wheat, cotton and flax, and the two kinds of potatoes, are remarkable
examples of this fact. The turnip should be considered amongst the
most useful vegetables in America. There are none that can be rear-
ed with so little expense. The turnip, though less nutritious, can be
much more easily preserved than the potato. Tiie turnip and Irish
potato flourish and decline in nearly the same places ; neither are
ever seen in any considerable degree of perfection in the same place
with the sweet potato.

Of fruits cultivated in the southern part of the Mississippi valley,
the peach is the greatest in quantity, and perhaps in value. The
apple below 35° N. lat. may be said to cease as a beneficial object
of culture ; the inhabitants are supplied, however, with that fruit
from the settlements more northwardly. No city in the United
States is more cheaply and plentifully supplied with apples than
New Orleans.

The fig grows abundantly and luxuriantly in all regions below 33°
N. lat. The large yellow fig from the south of France is the species
most common. There are several other kinds, however, some of
whom are too tender to sustain the rigours of the frosts above 30°
N. lat.

The pear tree south of 33° N. lat. becomes not worth the room it
occupies. The same remark applies to the cherry. The quince
bears abundantly, as does the pomegranate, and many species of ex-
cellent plums.

Of wild fruit, the greatest in quantity is that of the black and dew
berry. The quantity of the former upon the high, rich lands, and
of the latter in many places along the margin of the streams of Louis-
iana, is really a matter of astonishment.

The states of Louisiana and Mississippi may be emphatically called
the favourite soil of the persimon, diospyros virginiana. The persi-
mon tree grows on all lands, from the highest hills to the lowest
swamps ; it attains the size of a considerable forest tree, being often

cereal plant, is not a grass ; in the Limi£ean system it is ranked " octandria try-

gynia." *

184 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

found near two feet in diameter, and always a high tree compared
with its thickness. The sweet gum is the only tree in Louisiana.,
found in as many and in as different places as the persimon. The
productiveness of this tree seems not to depend upon its position :
the author has seen individual trees loaded with fruit on the highest
hills near Natchez, and in the lowest swamps of Atchafalaya ; in the
deepest recesses of the heavy cane brakes of Bayou Boeuf, and
upon the alluvion of the Sabine. High pine woods are the only
parts of the country where the persimon is not plentiful ; but even
there, the tree is never absolutely wanting. The quality of the fruit
is every where excellent. There is much reason to believe that the
persimon could be applied to uses to which it has not yet been appro-
priated. It can be produced in situations where but few other useful
vegetables and no other fruit tree will grow.

It contributes, however, to human support indirectly by feeding
swine, which devour this fruit with great avidity.

Many species of native grape vines abound ; the most worthy of
notice are the highland purple grape, the parsley leaved river grape,
and the muscadine. They are all unimportant, except as they seem
to indicate the possibility of a successful manufacture of wine.

The quantity, excellence, and variety of the juglans en the Mis-
sissippi has, perhaps, no parallel on the globe. Black walnut, white
walnut, and seven or eight distinct species of hickory, are found ;
the most delicious of the latter is the paccan, or Illinois nut. These
nuts, with acorns, constitute no small part of the nourishment of the
swine.

The size, majesty, and productive qualities of the oak of Louisiana,
have been the subjects of admiration to all men who have travelled
the country, and have attended to the products of nature in this pro-
lific region. If the liriodendron tulipifera be considered the first
tree ofAmerica in point of elegance and towering beauty, the second
rank is due to the quercus tinctoria. As useful natural productions, if
both bore nutritious fruit, it would be very difficult to determine the
relative preference claimed by these two ornaments of our forests ;
but the quantity and excellence of the fruit of the oak entitles it to
a decided preference. The fruit of the oak has, indeed, been of no
trifling aid to the frontier inhabitants of the United States, by feeding
that animal upon whose flesh they have most generally subsisted
during the early stages of their settlements.

Flax and hemp are, and will no doubt continue to occupy no
small part of the attention of the people in the higher parts of the
Missouri territory. The former is there, as in almost all other parts
of the United States, cultivated in great part for home consumption,
and of course is of more importance to the cultivator than articles
denominated staples. Hemp will produce the double advantage of
being at once an article of domestic use and a staple. As long as
cotton is extensively cultivated in the southern part of the valley ef
the Mississippi, hemp will be profitably produced in the northern.
Every twenty lbs. of the former will demand at least one of the lat-
ter, or the necessary quantity of hemp in bailing and cordage, is

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 135

*bout 5 per cent, of (he weight of the cotton. A bale welkin? three

m xt-,W 1,,b,ave^5lbs. of cotton, and I51bs. of baling 'and tope.

Mr. Wiles calculates (he quantity of cotton produced in the United

fetates in 1816* at 320,000 bales This would demand 4,800,000lbs.

ot hemp, formed into duck and cordage.

flax ls a vegetable, that like cotton, will -row upon a great vari-
ety ot land ; moderately rich soil is most congenial to flax. It is
an objection to hemp, that it demands first rate land.

he acfual surface upon which hemp can be produced with profit,
is very confined compared with flax; the former, is, however/upon
land suitable to its growth, a more beneficial crop than the latter.

Hemp was more extensively cultivated some years past in the val-
ley ot the Mississippi than it is at present. The resloration of the
relations of commerce in Europe, has restricted the cultivation of
hemp m the fjnited States to nearly the quantity necessary for home
consumption. J

Of vegetables that are congenial to the soil and climate, and not
yet introduced into general culture in Louisiana, there is none would,
perhaps, yield more beneficial product, than that species of sesarauro,
called oriental bhene.f This plant, whose growth is rapid, can be
cultivated as extensively as cotton. The seed vessel is a many seeded
capsule, containing round, oily seeds, which are used in various ways
by the negroes, who cook it as a pulse. It has been long known to
produce an oil, containing all the valuable qualities of olive oil, with-
out the same liability of becoming rancid by age. The bhene is
certainly one of the most productive vegetables that ever was culti-
vated by man. It is known in Louisiana, but much neglected. Be-
ing brought from the western coast of Africa from the banks of allu-
vial rivers, its growth is luxuriant on the fertile borders of the Missis-
sippi and Teche : it will vegetate extremely well, also on high, dry,
soil. It might, indeed, be made an universal object of culture from
I ennessee to the gulf of Mexico.

The silk worm is one ot the products of Europe and Asia, not yet
introduced into the United States, but to which the climate is, in many
places, no doubt congenial. Whether silk, as an object of human
industry, Can be produced in America, beneficially, is yet to ascer-
tain; but some doubts may be indulged on the subject. Cotton will
answer almost all the uses of silk, and also supply many other arti-
cles of clothing which silk will not. Cotton can no doubt be much

* Po^L24' °,f th!s treatise> N°- 18 Vol. XII. Nile's Register, Darby's Louis-
iana. 2d Ed p. 320.

t Class didyriamia, order angiospermia of Linnaeus.

Sesamum folius ovato oblongis mlegris.—MDler

Digitalis orientalis, sesamum dicta. — Tournefort

"This plant," says Miller, in his Gardener's Dictionary, Art. Sesamum.
' was introduced into Carolina by the African negroes, where it succeeds ex-
tremely well. The inhabitants of that country make an oil from the seed, which
will keep many years, and not fake any rancid smell or taste ; but in txvo years
becomes quite mild ; so that when the warm taste of the seed which is in the
oil when first drawn is worn off, they use it as a sallad oil, and for all the pur-
poses of sweet oil." '

<24

1$q EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

more easily produced than silk : the former is also now more familiar
to our wants, the latter every day becoming less so.

There is one advantage attending the rearing the silk worm, aris-
ing from the mulberry tree, upon whose leaves that animal subsists,
being capable of culture in many places, where, from the inequali-
ties or other peculiarities, vegetables demanding the plough, could
not be cultivated. This advantage will be felt, and perhaps exten-
sively, in the lapse of ages, when land becomes dear from excess of
population ; but in the present state of things, it may be doubted
whether the silk worm would reward the attention paid to its nature,
so profitably as would the same time and labour employed otherwise.
getting aside the question of its expediency, the problem of the
practicability of rearing silk worms in the United States, has been
solved by actual experiment.

Miller, in his Gardener's Dictionary, under the article Mulberry,
informs us that the white, or silk worm mulberry tree, produced fruit
in the Chelsea garden in England. The tree would no doubt grow
almost spontaneously over an immense surface in the United Stales.
Mr. Miller observes ; " I have been assured by a gentleman of ho-
nour, who has made trial of both sorts of leaves, that the worm fed
with the black sort produced much better silk than those of the
white." This rendered it probable that the leaf of the white mul-
berry is not exclusively necessary to the silk worm.

The Morus, foliis cordatis subtus villosis, amentis cylindricis ; mul-
berry with heart-shaped leaves, which are hairy on their under side,
and cylindrical catkins, is the mulberry tree so common in the Uni-
ted States. Whether the leaves of this latter species would be suita-
ble to the silk worm, has not been, perhaps, ever yet subjected to
adequate experiment, but Mr. Miller renders the affirmative probable.
There is a striking analogy between the black mulberry of Europe,
and the morus foliis cordatis of America.

This article might be indefinitely enlarged, but without conveying
much real or useful information. Nothing more than general ideas ol
either the agricultural pursuits of the people of any country, or the
capabilities of the soil, can be given by mere verbal description. A
personal view of any country will do more, in informing the mind
respecting its features, in three months, than the reading of numerous
volumes can do in as many years.

( 187 )

' CHAPTER V.

The valleys of Ohio and Illinois comprise, perhaps, the finest re-
gion in the world. If soil, climate, vegetable, and mineral produc-
tion, are added to its commercial advantages, this opinion cannot be
considered extravagant. The surface comprised in these united val-
leys, is bounded by an outline of about 24u0 miles, and contains
226,072 square mile?, of which surface about 30,000 is in the valley
of Illinois, and 196,000 in that of Ohio. The greatest length of this
expanse is from the head waters of the Aleghany river to those of
Bear creek, 720 miles ; the greatest breadth from the head waters of
Sagasonon, branch of Illinois, to the head of the streams that fall into
the left side of the extreme south bend of Tennessee, and is 550 miles.

The extreme north part of this valley rises above 42° N. lat. in
tw<> places, namely, the head of Aleghany and that of the river
Piein, a brancli of the Illinois ; it extends as far south as 34° N.
lat. A due north and south line from the head of the river Plein to
that of Mulberry creek, which falls into the south side of Tennessee
river, in the Alabama territory, will extend through all the climates
of the valleys of the Ohio and Illinois. This is, no doubt, the largest
unbroken surface of productive soil in North America, if not on the
globe.

The following statistical table, will exhibit the present political di-
visions of this country, with their extent and population.

Territorial division.
Part of the state of New-York

do state of Pennsylvania

do state of Virginia

do state of North Carolina

do state of Tennessee

do Alabama territory

do state of Mississippi

Ail 'he state of Kentucky
Part of the state of Ohio

do Indiana

do Illinois territory

226,072 1,601,911

Of this surface, 121,602 square miles lie S. E. and 104,470 N. W.
of the river Ohio; of the population 1,115,000 are placed upon the
former, and ^86,911 upon the latter section.

Geological structure. — The valley of Ohio i^ of secondary forma-
tion in its entire extent, and abounds with sub?t.inces belonging to
countriss so constituted. Muofa the greater part of the rock base is
composed of mica slate, (micaceous schist,) or sandstone slate and

Square miles.

Population.

1,880

20,000

16,500

102,391

26,768

100,000

2,400

25,000

36.000

340,000

6,583

10,000

941

39,000

580,000

31,500

300,000

32,000

100,000

32,500

24,520

188 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

stratified limestone. The slate in various states of compactness, is and
of lamina, varying in thickness almost to infinity : it forms the body of
the hills in west Pennsylvania and west Virginia, and great part of
Ohio. The limestone is found of several very distinct kinds, and
also resting some places in strata, and others composed of .oose, amor-
phous fragments, imbedded in earth : the former is by far most abun-
dant.

In the present imperfect state of our knowledge respecting the va-
rious parts of the Ohio and Illinois valley, it is impossible to give in
detail, the proportions of the fossil substances that compose the incum-
bent strata of the country. It may be assumed as a general fact, that
the sand and limestone alternate in greater or less proportion. In
some places one of those fossils predominates in quantity, in others
they are found in nearly equal portions. Kentucky, much of Ten-
nessee, and part of Ohio, rest upon immense masses of limestone.
The rapids of Ohio rush over a body of this stone. The superstratum
at the rapids of the Ohio is composed of shell limestone, in which are
seen the remains of testaceous anrmals often entire. This stratum is
about a foot in thickness, and is followed by common blue limestone.

Precipices, of more or less elevation, are found in many places along
the Ohio river, formed by masses of limestone: the most remarkable
of these precipices are upon the west bank near tbe mouth of the
Tennessee river. The Kentucky river and several other streams in
that state and Tennessee, flow between enormous walls of lime-
stone. In this formation salt springs have been found to a considera-
ble extent.

The micaceous schist formation may be said to prevail N. E. of
that of limestone ; and, as has already been observed, forms the base
ot west Pennsylvania, west Virginia, and the N. E part of the state
of Ohio. This latter formation is remarkable for the quantity and
excellence ot the bituminous coal which it contains ; it always con-
tains more or less limestone. Hills composed of micaceous schist
formation, are remarkable for their rounded appearance, and the
precipices for their shelf like aspect. This latter effect arises from
the more friable nature of some of the strata than others. Often the
under stratum crumbles away, and leaves those above jutting out to
some considerable distance. The banks of the Monongehela, Ale-
ghany, and their confluent waters, afford innumerable examples, one
of which is near the city of Pittsburg, in the bank of the former
river.

Soils formed from the decomposition of these various rocks, are
generally fertile, particularly from limestone.

In the aspect of the country under review, a considerable diffe-
rence prevails between the sections S. E and N. W. of the Ohio
river. The former is much more broken than the latter, and pos-
sesses the only chain of mountains belonging to the whole surface.

It is remarkable, that the rivers of the United States are but very
little influenced by the Alegbany mountains. A curve line traced
between the sources of the waters, flowing into the Atlantic ocean,
from those which enter the Ohio, would cross and recross, the minor
chains oi the Aleghany. A bird's eye view from New-York to Geor-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 189

gia, would exhibit the rivers rushing through the gorges of the moun-
tain? in a great number of places.

In Potter county in Pennsylvania, is the extreme east waters of
the Ohio, rising about 20 miles N. E. of the town of Condersport.
Setting out from that place and advancing southwestward, the Chest-
nut ridge forms for one hundred miles the demarkation between the
eastern and western streams : but the Kiskiminitas branch of the Ale-
ghany, and the Youghiogbeny, Cheat, and Tiger valley branches of
Monongehela, all rise in the Aieghany, properly so called, and in their
passage pierce the Chestnut ridge. From the sources of Tiger Val-
ley river to the extreme eastern branches of the great Kenhaway, the
dividing line between the intervening streams would run nearly south,
crossing the mountains obliquely.

From the eastern sources of Kenhaway to those of the French Broad
and Santee, the western streams rise in the extreme eastern ridges of
the mountains, and flow nearly at right angles to the main chain.

By this natural arrangement it is at once perceptible, that the S. E.
part of the Ohio valley becomes more and more mountainous, advan-
cing S. W. from the north part of Pennsylvania to the N. VV. extre-
mity of Georgia. The Aieghany here, as every where else, consists
of long and nearly collateral ridges, frequently cut through by
the rivers. The intervening valleys are amongst the most agreea-
ble, and, in many instances, most productive parts of the United
States. Their materials, however, depend upon the rocks from which
those materials are drawn. This is the true reason of the respective
comparative iertility of the lands in the northwest and southeast side
of trie Aieghany mountains. The mere constituent matter of which
mountains are composed, cm oniy be interesting to general readers,
from the influence that the decomposition of that matter must have
upon the adjacent soil.

The shores of the Atlantic ocean, from Cape Sable to New York,
and the bottoms of the Ohio, are both alluvial ; but the latter ex-
ceeds the former, in point of fertility, to a great extent. The Ohio
has drawn its supplies of soil from secondary and transition, whilst
the border of the Atlantic is from, in most parts, the ruins of primitive
rocks.

The North or Hudson river, the Delcware, and the Susquehanah,
are exceptions to the foregoing rule : these three rivers rise on the
western secondary, cross the transition and primitive, and carry
their spoils towards the Atlantic ocean, where they have formed im-
mense borders of alluvion. The Hudson is the only river of the
United States, through which the ocean tides are carried over the
primitive and transition formations, to the border of the western
secondary ; this latter circumstance and its exemption from cataracts,
shoals, or rapids, in its passage from the western secondary to the
Atlantic ocean, are the only instances where any remarkable features
distinguish the geological structure of the Hudson, from the Deleware
and Susquehanah rivers. Under the name of this latter stream, are
included all the confluent waters of the Chesapeake bay. The Po-
tomac is, however, the most southern branch of the Susquehanah,
whose sources are in the western secondary. James' river, though

190 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

rising near, does not actually reach the latter formation. Beyond
James' river to the southward, the streams flowing into the Ohio,
rise upon the border, or in the primitive, and cross the transition into
the secondary, over which they flow into the main stream.

The reader will remark, from the foregoing, that the real dividing
line between the waters of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and those
of the Atlantic ocean, is actually uninfluenced by the mountains. It
is a general, but a very unfounded opinion, that the Atlantic declivi-
ty* rises from the northwestern shore of that ocean to the summit of
the Aleghany mountains, and that from that elevation the continent
again declines towards the Mississippi. To clearly understand the
physical conformation of any country, two distinct species of eleva-
tion must be noticed ; first, what is properly called mountains, and
secondly, hills formed by the gradual sinking of valleys from the
abrasion of waters. In common language hills and mountains are
mere relative terms, to signify more or less elevation ; but, geological-
ly, they are not only specifically, but generically distinct, at least they
are so in the United States.

The mountains are protuberances rising out of and above the hills,
but composed of very different materials, and arranged in a very dif-
ferent manner from the latter. Ascending from either the Atlantic
ocean or Ohio river, the hills rise gradually towards the separation
of the waters ; the mountains on the contrary seem to preserve no
regularity in their elevation, as it respects their local distance from
the ocean, or rivers of the Ohio valley. Upon the annexed map of
the United States, is etched, and coloured brown, the great outline
of the Mississippi valley, including those of the Ohio and Illinois;
and also the two latter spaces, distinguished from the great valley of
which they form minor parts. This will present to the eye more
clear definitions of the physiognomy of the United States, than can be
given by verbal description.

The terms used in this article to distinguish the various rocks, are
not in common use : some explanation is therefore necessary to ex-
cuse their insertion. There is nothing so necessary in the commu-
nication of information, as clear terms, having a definite and generally
received idea attached to them. In a science so recent in regular
classification as that of geology, the terms are new to most readers,
but without them, no real useful knowledge on the subject can be
conveyed through the medium of recorded facts. Primitive, transi-
tion, secondary, and alluvial, when once understood, enable the mind
to seize with certainty the information intended to be given by the
use of these terms.

One of the most profound geologists that the world has produced,}
has observed, in a recent publication, that " it might have been as well,
if when giving names to the different classes of rocks, all reference
to the relative period of their origin, or formation, had been avoided;
and in place or primitive, and secondary, some other names had been

* See Synopsis, page 7, of Geographical Introduction,
t William M'Clure — observations on the Geology of the United States, Phi-
ladelphia, 1817.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 191

adopted, taken from the most prominent feature, or general property
of the class of rocks intended to be designated, such as, perhaps, crys-
taline in place of primitive, and deposition, or horizontal, in place
of secondary. But as those old names are in general use, and con-
secrated by time and long habit, it is more than probable that the
present state of our knowledge does not autnorize us to change them.
The adoption of new names, on account of some newly discovered
property in the substance, is the cause of much inconvenience al-
ready ; and if adopted as a precedent in future, will create a confused
accumulation of terms, calculated to retard the progress of the science.
When we change the names given to defined substances by those who
went before us, what right have we to suppose that posterity will re-
spect our own nomenclature ?"

The water-courses falling from the mountain valleys towards the
Ohio, are mostly rapid, and many of them are encumbered with
cataracts, none of which are of considerable height. The streams
of Aleghany and Monongehela, pass over a continuation of rapids,
without any that deserve- the name of Falls. The Youghiogheny is,
in one place, viz. the passage of Chestnut ridge, precipitated about
seven feet The great Kenhawa has one considerable and several
lesser precipices passing across its bed, producing cataracts. The
Cumberland and Tennessee, though rapid in their courses, are, never-
theless, navigable almost to their sources.

The rivers of Kentucky are but little impeded with rock in their
beds, but flow through deep chasms, that have been worn out of the
calcarious rocks through which those rivers flow.

To the N. W. of the river Ohio the whole region under review
seems to rest upon a secondary base, covered occasionally by a re-
cent alluvion. Limestone and sandstone slate, are the predominant
rocks. Rounded pebbles are frequent ; often in loose masses, though
sometimes forming a crude breccia, or pudding stone.

Much of the surface of Illinois territory, states of Indiana and
Ohio, are flat, and exhibit the usual features of alluvial countries. Ex-
tensive prairies, flat and sometimes swampy, spread over a large ex-
tent. The eastern part of the state of Ohio is hilly, the northern
fiat, and in its natural state is covered with woods : the northwestern
prairie and the centre are diversified.

Two works of different characters and merit, have been written
upon the valley of Ohio. Mr. Volney wrote from personal observa-
tion, but the fruit of his actual experience was injured by precon-
ceived systems. Dr. Daniel Drake gave to his work the humble and
circumscribed name of a picture of Cincinnati and the Miami coun-
try, though, under that modest title, it contains more really useful
matter respecting the valley of Ohio, than all other works extant.
There are two modes of pursuing knowledge ; one, by first forming
theories, and then searching for facts to establish those theories : the
second mode is to collect facts, and from those facts to form systems.
In their researches, Volney pursued the former, Drake the latter
mode : these authors have respectively succeeded, according to the
soundness of their materials and course of their operations.

Situated almost in the centre of the valleys of Ohio and Illinois,

192

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Dr. Drake's inductions are more or less applicable to the entire sur-
face, and have the invaluable merit of being drawn from actual ex-
perience, and arranged without reference to the support of previous-
ly formed hypothesis. As far as the constitution of the climate and
the qualities of the soil are concerned, Dr. Drake's work will long
remain a text book upon the regions adjacent to the Ohio.

In the detail of the several territorial divisions of the valleys of
the Ohio and Illinois, their vegetable and mineral productions will
be given as far as direct data can be found. In the review of the
several states and territories, we will pursue a course from south to
north, as in the preceding parts of this treatise. Following this
method, Tennessee will first present itself. The annexed table ex-
hibits the extent of Tennessee, with its population in 1810. An es-
timate is given of the number of people that state is now supposed
to contain. This estimate is founded upon a supposition that the in-
habitants increase five per cent, per annum, (expunging small frac-
tions ;) this data no doubt will give rather too small a result ; it can-
not be very far, however, from the real number.

TOPOGRAPHICAL TABLE.

EAST TENNESSEE.

Comities.

Population.

Chief towns.

Anderson

3,959

Bledsoe

3,839

Marysville

Blount

3,259

Maryville

Campbell

2,668

Carter

4,190

Elizabethtown

Claiborne

4,798

Tazewell

Cocke

5,154

Newport

Granger

6,397

Rutledge

Greene

9,713

Greenville

Hawkins

7,643

Rogersville

Jefferson

7.309

Dandridge

Knox

10,171

Knoxville

Rhea

2,504

Washington

Roane

5,571

Kingston

Sevier

4,595

Sevierville

Sullivan

6.847

Blountsville

Washington

7,740

Jonesborough

101,367

WEST TENNESSEE.

Counties.

Population.

Chief towns.

Bedford

8.242

Shelhyville

Davidson

15,608

Nashville

Dickson

4,516

Franklin

5,730

Winchester

Giles

4,646

Pulaski

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

193

Counties.

Population.

Chief towns.

Hickman

2,583

Humphrey

1,511

Jackson

5,401

Williamson

Lincoln

6,104

Fayette vi lie

Montgomery

8,021

Clarkesville

Maury

10,359

Columbia

Overton

5,643

Monroe

Robertson

7,270

Springfield

Rutherford

10,265

Jefferson

Summer

13,792

Gallatin

Smith

11,649

Dixon's Springs

Stuart

4,262

Wilson

11,952

Lebanon

Williamson

13,153

Franklin

White

4,028

Sparta

Warren

5,725

M'Minville

160,360

101,367

Total— 261,727
Allowing an increase of five per cent, per annum, the present po-
pulation of Tennessee, 1816, amounts to 340,000 persons.

Length, breadth, extent. — Tennessee is the longest state in the
United States, being from northeast to southwest 470 miles : its
breadth is one degree and a half of latitude, or 1,033 miles: the ex-
tent is within a small fraction of 40,000 square miles, equal to
25,600,000 American acres.

Natural features. — From its position on the globe, its extending
from east to west, and from its narrow breadth, Tennessee might be
supposed to exhibit but little variation of climate; but the position
of the mountains in the state and in the adjacent states, has a great
influence over the climate of Tennessee. There is no state in the
United States, excepting Georgia, which admits the culture of so
many valuable vegetables, as does this state.

Cumberland mountain intersects the state obliquely, and divides it
into two unequal valleys, those of Cumberland and that of Ten-
nessee. Those two rivers in their advance to the Ohio, approach,
and enter the main stream, only eleven miles apart from each other.

The Tennessee is the longest and largest branch of Ohio : its ex-
treme N. E. source rises in Wythe county in Virginia : its extreme
S. E. branch rises in Georgia. The entire sources reach through two
degrees of latitude, having various names ; the French Broad, No-
lachucky, and Holston, form by their junction the southeast branch :
the Clinch the northwestern : their union at Kingston forms the
Tennessee.

Below Kingston the Tennessee receives no river of any considera-
ble length, to the Muscle Shoals, a distance of upwards of 200 miles.
A short distanee below the head of the Muscle Shoals, Elk river
25

194

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

comes in from the north : this stream is about 150 miles in length,
heading in Cumberland mountain. Buffalo and Duck rivers rise in
the same ridge with Elk, but flow west ; and like the Tennessee
and Cumberland, curve to the northward, unite and fall into Tennes-
see, nearly on latitude 35° N. Below the junction of Clinch and
Holston, on the left side, and below the mouth of Duck river, the
Tennessee receives no tributary waters sufficient to augment its stream
in any sensible degree.

Cumberland river rises in Cumberland mountain, and interlocks
with the head waters of Clinch and Kentucky rivers. This river
rises in the southeast part of the state of Kentucky, through which
it flows in a westerly direction upwards of 200 miles, enters Ten-
nessee ; and by a very winding course of one hundred and twenty
miles in the latter state, reaches at Nashville near as far south as 35°
N. lat. At Nashville the Cumberland river assumes a N. W. course,
which it preserves 120 miles to its junction with the Ohio.

The two following tables will exhibit the relative length and sta-
tionary distances of the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, from their
sources to their junction with the Ohio.

No. 36.

Length and stationary distances of the Tennessee, by Holston.

i Miles.

From the sources of Holston to Abingdon - 35

Tennessee line - - - - 10 45

Blountsville - ... 20 65

Mouth of French Broad - - - 95 160

Knoxville 4 164

Kingston, mouth of Clinch 60 224

Washington 30 254

Hiwassee river - 10 264

Georgia line - - - - - 50 314

Again enters Tennessee ... 10524

Nickajack enters Alabama territory - - 10 334

Extreme south bend, 34° 25' N. lat. - - 50 384

Head of Muscle Shoals ... 40 424

Mouth of Elk river - - - 5 429

Lower end of Muscle Shoals ... 15444

Mouth of Bear creek - - - - 30 474
Now forms the boundary between the state of Mississippi and

Alabama territory, to the Tennessee south line 25 499

Mouth of Duck river - - - - 90 589

Tennessee north line ... - 40 629

Entrance into the Ohio river - 50 679

No. 37.

Length and stationary distances of the Cumberland river from its
source, to its entrance into the Ohio.

Miles.

From its source to the south line of Kentucky - |200

Fort Blount 30|230

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 195

Nashville - 90

Clarksville - 30

Palmyra - - - - - 10

Tennessee north line - - - - 30

Ohio river - 50

Miles.
320

350

360
390
440

The chain of Cumberland mountain extends between the Cum-
berland and Tennessee valleys, and produces two distinct climates in
the state. That of Tennessee is more temperate than that of Cum-
berland. The difference is greater than would arise from the respec-
tive latitudes: cotton and tobacco are more productive, and less li-
able to destruction by frost in the former, than in the latter valley.
No well dig?sted statistical account of Tennessee has been published ;
nor have the minute shades of transition in its soil and climate been
exhibited from actual and judicious observation. Only the general
features of the country can be given.

Tennessee may be correctly viewed as the middle climate of the
United States. Both from geographical position and local features,
the temperature of its climate is a medium between the warmth of
the south and the cold of the north. All the vegetable productions,
from cotton to the cereal gramina, are produced. In some parts of
the state the 2pple succeeds extremely well ; a circumstance that in
its constitution bears more analogy to the air of the northern, than to
that of the southern states. On the borders of Kentucky and Virgi-
nia, the winters of Tennessee are often severe : the rivers are fre-
quently frozen. Like all the middle and even southern states, the
seasons are extremely variable. No winter passes away without se-
vere frosts ; and many are attended with heavy snow in all parts of
the state.

The soil of Tennessee, like its climate, is very different in quali-
ty in the respective parts of the state. Three-fourths of the entire
surface is mountainous or hilly. The valleys and river bottoms are
remarkably fertile. The inequalities of the surface in respect to ele-
vation^ shelter, and exposure, are so infinite, that in different parts
of the state, the same species of soil is suitable to very different ve-
getables.

The east section of Tennessee is occupied by what may be strictly
called the nucleus of the Aleghany mountains. The ridges are here
less elevated than in some other places ; but they extend over a
much wider surface than in any other part of the United States. The
range of the mountains being here also inclined more to the west,
produce a double effect upon the climate.

West Tennessee is more flat than the eastern section. The moun-
tains, after their course to the west, gradually decline, and before
reaching the Mississippi, disappear. The hiifs also become, in ap-
proaching the Ohio and Mississippi, more rounded, less elevated,
and like the mountains, are gradually lost before reaching the extreme
depression of the valley in which they are situated. From so many
concurrent causes, the changes of temperature between the eastern
and western extremities of Tennessee, are almost as great as would

196 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

be found, in many situations in North America, in an equal distance
along a meridian line. A striking example of the correctness of the
foregoing facts, are presented by the Mississippi and Tennessee
states, when compared together. The relative geographical posi-
tions of the two states are directly opposite. The extreme length of
the former, being north and south, that of the latter, east and west ;
yet the difference in climate between the extremes of the state of
Mississippi is not greater, than exists also between the extremes of
Tennessee.

A statistical and geographical work on Tennessee, drawn from care-
fully observed facts, and judiciously arranged, -would be an accession
of great value to the science of the United States.

Progressive geography, — history. — The state of Tennessee is an
elongation of North Carolina, and originally made a part of that
state ; but like all other places northwest of the Aleghany mountains,
its settlement by the white inhabitants is recent. About the com-
mencement of the revolutionary war, a few hunters reached the
sources of the Tennessee river, and without any countenance from
government, commenced an establishment, which for many reasons
increased and remained obscure and unnoticed by the governments
of the contiguous states. These remote hunters experienced fierce
opposition from the savages, which they repelled with bravery and
success. The recent establishments in east Tennessee operated,
during the revolutionary war, as a shield to the back countries of
Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia,* and con-
tributed no little to facilitate the settlements of Kentucky.

From 1776, when the British agents, Stuart and Cameron, in re-
venge for their unshaken fidelity to their country, brought upon the
Tennesseeans the tomahawk of the Cherokees, until the memorable
battle of New Orleans, the troops of Tennessee have been at their
post, when their country demanded their services.

Tennessee was separated from North Carolina, and created a ter-
ritory in 1790. In 1796 it became a state of the United States.
In 1791 the population was 35,691 ; in 1795 the inhabitants were
increased to 77,262. By the census of 1800 there were in
Tennessee 105,602 persons. In the ten years that intervened be-
tween the two last enumerations of 1800, and that of 1810, the peo-
ple of this state had accumulated to 261,727.

The greatest comparative increase was during the period between
1791 and 1795. A decrement of regular accumulation is percep-
tible in every subsequent period. This is the case with all the other
new states and territories of the United Stales in the Ohio and Mis-
sissippi valley. Tennessee also presents another fact, universally
overlooked in speculations on the recent settlements in the United
States; that the density of the population is in direct ratio to the dis-
tance from the original source. This rule has very few exceptions in the
United States, and none that does not arise from river navigation. The
quality of soil seems to have very little direct influence in the exten-
di i>n of settlements. The difference in effect, between the silent but

* See page 62 of thij treatise.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 197

gradual flow of the people to the westward, and that of casual emi-
gration, will be seen by reference to the geographical treatise an-
nexed to this work.

Of cultivated vegetables, the most important produced in Tennes-
see is maize. In no part of the United States does that valuable
plant grow in such perfection as in the rich bottoms of Cumberland,
Tennessee, and their confluent streams. Much maize in the ear,
and also ground into meal, is transported from these rivers to Natchez
and New Orleans.

Wheat, rye, oats, barley, and buckwheat, are also raised in con-
siderable quantities, both for consumption and exportation.

Hemp is amongst the staples of Tennessee, but is not at pre-
sent so extensively cultivated as it was a few years past. Flax is
reared for home use, but not in very large quantities.

Cotton is the staple commodity of greatest value both in quantity
and aggregate value, that is exported from this state. The thread of
the cotton of Tennessee is, perhaps, not so long as that growing in
more southern latitudes, but is otherwise excellent.

Of mineral productions found in Tennessee, iron and salt are the
most important. Several iron works are, and have been many years
in operation, both in east and west Tennessee. Castings and iron are
made both for domestic use and exportation. Several salt springs
are found, but not in general use : the state is generally supplied
with that very necessary article from Kentucky and Virginia.

Saltpetre, alum, copperas, and lead, are also discovered. A con-
siderable quantity of the former is now taken from various caves
and manufactured into gunpowder, or otherwise used for home con-
sumption, and also for exportation.

Coal is said to be discovered in great quantities ; it is the bitumi-
nous coal of secondary formation, and disposed in horizontal strata.

Tennessee may be with propriety considered, in respect to fruits,
as the most favourable situation in the United States. There are, in-
deed, very few fruits cultivated in the valley of the Mississippi and
Ohio, but what are concentrated in this state. Apples, pears,
peaches, and plums, are reared in great variety, and of good qual-
ity. The two kinds of potato grow in abundance.

Beef, butter, bacon, pork, lard, tallow, leather, and many other
articles, are exported to Natchez and New Orleans.

The timber trees are plentiful and very large, consisting of many
species of oak; many species of hickory, black and white walnut,
beech, linden, sycamore, ash ; several species of maple, poplar, (li-
riodendron tulipifera,) black locust, honey locust ; various kinds of
elm, mulberry, pine, cedar, wild cherry, and sassafras. The under-
brush consists of dogwood, spicewood, papaw, crab apple, hazle nut;
many kinds of grape vines, and smilax, large cane, and many other
plants and herbs of medicinal virtue, or otherwise useful.

Towns, — colleges, — schools. — Nashville, on the south side of Cum-
berland rive*, in 36° 4' N. lat. and 10° W. Ion. from Washington, is
the principal town in West Tennessee, and the largest in the state.
The number of inhabitants in this town is uncertain, but no doubt
exceeds three thousand. Some fine public and private buildings are

198 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Greeted. The town is rapidly improving, and is now a place of great
commercial wealth. >

Knoxville, the chief town of East Tennessee, stands upon the
north side of Holston river, 35° 55' N. lat. 6° 58' W. Ion. from Wash-
ington city. There is not much difference in the population of Knox-
ville and Nashville. The latter is, in many respects, one of the most
agreeable places of residence in the United States. The adjacent
country is variegated and romantic. The climate is a due medium
between the extremes of the northern winters and southern summers.
Occupying an interesting situation almost upon the direct route from
New Orleans and Natchez to the middle states, Knoxville will be-
come a place of great consequence, when good roads are made
through the state of Mississippi and Alabama territory.

There are many other towns in the state of Tennessee, but none
that merit particular notice.

There are several colleges, academies, and schools in Tennessee.
Cumberland college, in Nashville, is the most extensive literary es-
tablishment in the state. There are one or two colleges in East Ten-
nessee. By law there ought to be one academy in each county :
how many of the latter are in operation, we are unable to state with
certainty. Education is not neglected in the state, though not pur-
sued with the regularity, or carried so high as in the northern states.
Professional men, particularly physicians, are obliged, in order to
complete their studies, to attend lectures in either Baltimore, Phila-
delphia, New- York, or Boston. No establishment in the western
states is so imperiously necessary, as a college of physicians and
surgeons. There is provision made in the arrangement of the Tran-
sylvanian university in Lexington, Kentucky, for the completion of
medical education ; and it is much to be desired that this part of the
plan was carried into complete effect. So much is now become ne-
cessary by the advancement of chemistry and botany in order to
complete medical studies, that much time and expense are indispen-
sable in the collection of libraries, and in the formation of the various
professorships.

In every point of view, Tennessee is a very respectable and ra-
pidly improving state. The Mississippi is its great commercial out-
let. Two or more canals have been projected, to unite the waters of
Tennessee with those of Mobile river. How far these canals are
practicable, or what will be their probable expense, is unknown. One
very serious objection to their utility, arises from the great length of
time that the higher waters of Tombigbee and Coosa rivers are ren-
dered innavigable, almost every year by the summer and autumn
heats. The route to market by the Mississippi is circuitous and
tedious ; but it is always open, and subject to no other particular in-
convenience than what arises from the length.

The following tables exhibits the relative distances from Nashvill*
and Knoxville, to the principal towns in the United Slates.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 199

No. 38.
From Nashville to Washington city by Knoxville.

Miles.
25

65
99

Jefferson .....

M'Minville ..... 40

Madison ..... 34

Washington - - - - - 30 120

Kingston, junction of Clinch and Holston - 30 150

For the distance and stations between Knoxville and Washington
city, see No. 26, page 153, and No. 31.

For the stationary distances from Nashville to New Orleans, see
No. 33, page 160.

No. 39.
From Nashville to Pittsburg, by Lexington in Kentucky.

Miles.

Manstrer's

Springfield

North boundary of Tennessee

Russelville

Bowling green

Glasgow

124

Greensburg

1 58

Stanford

233

Nicholasville

260

Lexington

275

Washington, Pennsylvania. (See

No. 30.)

320

595

. Cannonsburg

60%

PITTSBURG

620

No.

40.

From Nashville to Charleston in South Carolina,

by Athens, Au-

gusta, and Savannah in Georgia.

Miles.

Shellbyville

| 45

Winchester

31] 76

Ross, southeast side of Tennessee

river

33| 109

Vans's Cherokee nation

50:159

Etowah river

54J213

Chatahoochy river

23,236

Clarksboro on Oconee river

• -

32,268

ATHENS

20 288

Lexington

20,308

Washington

30.338

Ray's mills, on a branch of Savannah river

151363

Columbia

13366

AUGUSTA

20J386

Waynesboro

«.

34420

Jacksonsboro

443

200

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Mile*.

Ebenezer
SAVANNAH

Coosahatchy
Garden
Jacksonsboro
CHARLESTON

485

511

544

:>56

580

613

No. 41.

From Nashville to Columbus in the state of Ohio, by Lexington
and Cincinnati.

Miles.

Lexington. (See

No. 39.)

275

Falmouth

315

Cincinnati

355

Hamilton

380

Dayton

415

Springfield

415

Franlilington

479

Columbus

480

No. 42.

From Nashville to Charleston, by Knoxville and Columbia.

Miles.

Knoxville. (See

No. 38.)

192

Dand ridge

222

Newport

243

Warm Spring

■ -

268

Line between North and South Carolina

298

Greenville

'528

Reedy river

354

Lauren's

369

Belfast

389

Nevvburj'-

402

Saluda river

432

Granby

153

COLUMBIA

45S

Smitbville

493

Nelson's ferry

527

Monk's corner

546

Elm's

566

Charleston

580

No. 43.

From Nashville to Washington by Raleigh, in North Carolina and
Richmond in Virginia.

Milet.
192

Knoxville. (See No. 38 and 42.)

Dand ridge

Cheek's

222

244

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

201

Warrenton

Gie nville

Jonesboro

Elizabethtown

Ashe

Wilke's

Rock ford

Huntsville

Bcthania

Salem

New Garden

Mdrtinville

Allemance

Hillsboro

Chapel bill

RALEIGH

Louisburg

Warrenton

Meberin river

Notaway river

Peershurg

RICHMOND

Hanover, C. H.

White Chimneys

Bowling green

Viieboro

Fredericksburg

Falmouth

Stafford

Aqcia

Dumfries

Ocoquhan

Pohike church

Alexandria

Washington

Miles.
12256

25 298
16314

273

384
418
456
476
491
500
526
536
558
572
586
6i0
642
665

20695

715
748

772
792
802
816
824
839
849
858
862
872
10 882
887
878
7 905

Kentucky, like Tennessee, extends in length from east to west. The

UkJUST f tUde ^^corresponds to the greatest length

1 ™/V^SSI^ ^Ugh*e State froni near the »™bot Ohio to
the sources oi Cumberland and Great Sandy rivers, a distance of seven

e^wtdth n?Ude-0ruhree h-^^khty-si* miles: the great"
north boundarvUoefTUth *""* ^ T^ °f *reat Miami river * the
S»-dearp«n?i 5. TfDDes8ee' ecI,J;'1 toa lift'e more than two and a
hat degrees of latitude, or one hundred and eighty miles Kentucky
extends over 42,053 square miles, equal to§26,913,920 American

no^tionTf1 tFta!iStiCal 'f'' preSent? a view of the di™j<™ and
population of this state, as they stood in 1810.

202

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

TOPOGRAPHICAL TABLE.

KENTUCKY.

Counties.

JPopuia/ion.

Chief towns and population

Adair

6,011

Columbia 175

Barren

11,186

Glasgow 244

Batb

Boone

3,608

Bracken

3,451

Augusta 255

Br^ckenridge

3,430

Bourbon

18,009

Paris 83a

Buiber

2,181

Bullet

4,311

Clarke

Jl,5l9

Winchester 538

Casey

3,285

Liberty 33

Campbell

3,060

Newport 413

Christian

11,020

Hopkinsonville 13!

Cumberland

6,191

Burkesville 106

Ciay

2,398

Qafchrell

4,268

Estill

2,082

Fay* -Me

21,370

Lexington 4326

Fr;,nklin

8,0!3

Frankfort 1099

Fleming

8,947

Floyd

3,484

Prestonville 32

G- -tin

3,307

Poit William 120

Greenup

2,369

Green

6*735

Greensburgh 132

Grayson

2,301

CUjrard

9,186

Lancaster 260

Henry

9-777

Newcastle 125

Harrison

7,752

Cinthiana 369

Henderson

4,703

Henderson 159

H- ien

7,531

Elizabeth- town 181

H pkin's

2,964

JVLdisonviHe 27

Jessamine

8,377

NiclioSasville 158

Jefferson

13,399

Lou.sville 1357

Knox

5,875.

Barboursville 55

Lexington

Livingston

3,674

Smitbland 99

Lewis

2,357

Lincoln

8.676

L m

12,123

Russelville 532

!ri a

12,459

Washington 815

J- .er

12.630

Danville 432

Ma lisoa

15,540

Richmond 366

Mi hlenburgto

4.181

Greenville 75

W nl umerjr

12,875

Mountsterling 425

N -las

4 J'98

NelsoH

14,078

Beard's town 821

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

4k>unlies.

Population.

Chief towns and population,

Ohio

3,682

Harttord 110

Pulaski

6.897

Pendleton

3,061

Falmouth 121

R '-ck Castle

1.731

Scott

12,419

Georgetown 529

Shelby
Union

14,837

Shelbyville 424

Wayne

5,430

Monticello 37

Washington

13. M8

Springfield 249

Warren

1 1 937

Bowlinsj green 154

Woodford

9,659

Versailles 438.

406,51

Progressive geography. —population. — In 1769 the first whites of
whom we have a well authenticated account passed into Kentucky.
Danjel Boone, in 1770. traversed the country, and in 1775 the first
attempt was made at a settlement by white families. If any part of
the inhabited earth could be said to have been peopled in tears and
blood, that was, emphatically, Kentucky. Invited by the excellence
of the soil and beauty of the country, the whites persisted in remov-
ing into it: stimulated by dread of encroachment, and determined
on preserving their best hunting ground, the savages defended their
residence with desperation. The discipline and numbers of the for-
mer prevailed. After many years of war, the savages abandoned
the contest, and yielding Kentucky, prepared the way for much more
extensive conquests.

Eleven years after the first effectual settlement, Kentucky was se-
parated from Virginia by the following limits : the state of Tennes-
see south, the Mississippi river west, Ohio river northw-est. Big San-
dy river east, and Cumberland mountain southeast; having the3 state
of Tennessee south, Missouri territory west, Illinois territory and the
state of Indiana northwest, the state of Ohio north, and Virginia
east and southeast.

In 1790 Kentucky contained 73,677 persons. In 1800 220,959. and
in 1810 had increased to 406,511. The same observation made
respecting the progressive accumulation of the people of Tennessee
may be repeated as regards that of Kentucky The increase was
much more comparatively greater between 1790 and 1800, than in
the ten years antecedent to the last census.

Kentucky became a state of the United States. June 1792, when
its population did not either much exceed or fall short of 100,000 in-
habitants.

Allowing a similar increment as given to Tennessee, Kentucky
now contains about 580,000 people. The rapid increase to wealth
and consequence of this state, from that of a howling wilderness, has,
perhaps, no parallel in the history of the human species. If Ten-
nessee is excepted, no other part of the United States was peopled
under such accumulated difficulties as Kentucky.

Natural features,— productions, natural and artificial— Geological-

204 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

ly, the entire surface of Kentucky reposes upon a bed of secondary
limestone The soil of very different depths, but almost every where
fertile. The southeastern part is mountainous, the centre hilly, and
some parts near the Ohio level. The rivers have, generally, worn
very deep channels in the calcarious rocks upon which they flow.
The country is not very well supplied with either well or spring
water. Mill streams are also mostly precarious.

The rivers of Kentucky are, Ohio, Mississippi, Tennessee, Cum-
berland, Green. Rolling, Kentucky, Licking, and Big Sandy river.

The Ohio is the principal stream of the state of Kentucky, and
the ultimate channel of its commerce, flowing along the state from
the mouth of Big Sandy to the Mississippi, about 640 miles, follow-
ing the bends of the stream.

The Mississippi is the western boundary of the state from the mouth
of Ohio to the north boundary of Tennessee, fifty -three miles.

Tennessee and Cumberland pass in the lower part of their course
about fifty-eight miles each in the state of Kentucky, and add essen-
tially to the commercial facilities of the state. The latter is in reali-
ty more particularly a stream of Kentucky than of Tennessee, the
former having within its territory both the sources and the mouth of
that river.

Green river is a stream of considerable extent, rising near the cen-
tre of the state, and running to the west 120 miles, receives a large
branch from the south ; assumes a northwest course of 100 miles ; falls
into the Ohio about thirty miles below the Yellow Bank.

Rolling is a small and unimportant stream,, rising near Danville,
and pursuing a western course of 60 or 70 miles, turns northwest and
north ; falls into the Ohio thirty miles below Louisville.

Kentucky river, from which the state derives its name, rises near
the southeast angle of the state : its general course is nearly north-
west ; about 200 miles in length ; falls into the Ohio at Port William.
This river traverses the most fertile, best cultivated, and peopled part
of Kentucky.

Licking river rises between the sources of the Kentucky and Great
Sandy : its course is nearly parallel to and about equal length with
the former ; joins the Ohio at the town of Newport opposite Cincin-
nati. Licking waters a fine, rich, well inhabited country.

Great, or Big Sandy river, rises in the Cumberland mountains : its
sources interlock with those of Cumberland, Clinch, Kenhawa, Ken-
tucky, and Licking rivers. This stream forms the east boundary of
Kentucky : its course is a very little west of north ; about 100 miles
in length.

Cumberland mountain forms the southeast boundary of the state ;
but the mountain here turns almost west, and, together with the con-
tinuation of the chain, contributes to influence very seriously the cli-
mate of Kentucky. There is, indeed, a remarkable similarity be-
tween Tennessee and Kentucky : in both, the climate differs more in
an equal distance east and west than north and south. In the western
part of Kentucky some cotton is made, but with difficulty. A cir-
cumstance that proves that the climate of Kentacky approximated

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 205

snore to the northern than southern atmosphere, is the successful
manufacture of maple sugar.

Like all other parts of the valley of Ohio, the soil and air of
Kentucky has been represented in the most inflated strains of admi-
ration. It is, indeed, a fine country, but not differing in any essen-
tial respect from the adjacent regions.

Wheat, rye, maize, oats, barley, and buckwheat, are cultivated.
Maize is, however, the principal grain reared for home consumption.
Hemp and flax succeed in many parts extremely well. The Irish
potato grows abundantly, as does a great variety of garden vege-
tables.

Apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, are the fruits most
commonly cultivated.

From the calcarious composition of the soil, it is said, by residents,
that meadow grasses do not grow to advantage. How far this
could be remedied if a fact, by the culture of luzerne, Supinella,
clover, or other vegetables suitable to form hay, experience only can
determine.

Domestic animals are large and beautiful, particularly the
horse ; some of the largest, fleetest, and finest individuals of that no-
ble quadruped yet produced in the United States, has come from
Kentucky.

Salt and iron are amongst the minerals of this state. The most
extensive works for the manufacture of the former yet established
west of the Aleghany mountains, are on the waters of Kentucky, from
whence Tennessee, Ohio, and Indiana, have in a great measure been
supplied, besides a sufficiency for home use. Several iron works are
also in operation, where castings are made : bar iron is mostly im-
ported from Pennsylvania.

Kentucky has from its position become a manufacturing state. In
1810, by a return made to the office of the secretary of state, the
anniout of manufactured articles exceeded five million of dollars. Of
this aggregate the looms produced 2.657,081 dollars ; the salt works
325,870 dollars; rope walks 393,400 dollars ; maple sugar 308,932
dollars : the balance was made up by the tanneries, distilleries, paper
mills, hemp, &c.

Hemp, wheat, and tobacco, are the principal staples. Each of
those articles preponderate, following the demand. Manufacturing
pursuits must, however, increase. The distance to the Atlantic cities,
and the expense of carriage, secures a very high premium for the
production of all bulky articles.

As the cultivation of cotton advances on the Mississippi and neigh-
bouring streams, the demand for cordage and bale cloth must in-
crease also. Steam-boat navigation will aid the commercial and
manufacturing interest of Kentucky, to an extent beyond our means
to calculate.

A project of a canal to pass the rapids of the Ohio at Louisville,
has been long in agitation, and must eventually, and at no very dis-
tant time, be completed. The fall is 22| feet in a little more than
two miles. It is much to be desired that a good canal was formed in
this place, as it would remove the only existing serious impediment

206 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

to navigation from the sources of Aleghany and Monongahela, to the
mouth of the Mississippi.

The timber trees of Kentucky do not differ very much (rom those
of Tennessee. Pine and cedar is less frequent in the former than in
the latter state. Marble abounds of excellent quality. The whole
country may be said to repose on limestone.

Towns, — colleges, — schools. — Lexington, in Fayette county, is the
largest and most wealthy town in Kentucky; it stands at 30° 10' N.
iat. 7° 10' W long, from Washington city, and nearly due north
from Knoxville in Tennessee. It has been contended by some, that
the plain upon which Lexington stands, is not excelled for fertility
and beauty in the world ; without doubt it is one of the most produc-
tive spots in America. The settlements were commenced here in 1779.
The town now contains between live and six thousand people.

Improvements in building has kept pace, if not exceeded the in-
crease of population, and Lexington, where stood a wilderness less
than forty years past, now assumes the appearance of a thriving com-
mercial city, and its inhabitants exhibit the polish and intelligence
arising from wealth and leisure.

A few years after the first settlements were formed, the legislature
of Virginia incorporated for Kentucky, and located in Lexington a
seminary of education under the title of" The Transylvania Univer-
sity." This infant establishment made, during the first years of its
existence, but little progress. Involved in Indian wars, or engaged
in forming new villages and farms, the people had little leisure t®
pursue literary objects; but like every thing else concerning this
state, as soon as relieved from the pressure of savage warfare, the
science of the people augmented with astonishing rapidity. Men of
bigb attainments in every branch of human knowledge removed into
the state, and brought with them their. intormation and liberal views.
In 1798 the Transylvania University went into operation under the
guidance of twenty-one trustees, chosen on principles certainly novel:
no person belonging to any of the faculties are admitted. Though
not pursued with very general ardour through the state, yet educa-
tion made rapid advances in some places, particularly Lexington,
insomuch as to obtain for that town the title of the Athens of the
western states.

Besides the buildings necessary to public worship, education, and
the courts of law, there are many very flourishing manufactories in
and near Lexington. In a word, a visit to this place cannot fail to
give the warmest pleasure to a benevolent mind. No where in Ame-
rica has the almost instantaneous change, from an uncultivated waste
to the elegancies of civilization, been so striking.

FRANKFORT, on Kentucky river, at 38° 14' N. lat. 7° 40' W.
Ion. from Washington ti'y, is now the seat of government for the
state, hut is not remarkable for any considerable difference in popu-
lation or improvement from Bard's Town, Paris, Washington, or Dan-
ville, all of which are flourishing and pleasant towns, containing from
800 to 1200 inhabitants.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 207

Louisville, on the banks of Oiiio, at the upper extremity of the rapids
in that river, is, certainly , in point of wealth and consequence, the se-
cond town in the state. The Rapids of Ohio is at 3£° 25' N. lat.
8° 40' W. Ion. from Washington city.

Louisville occupies a high hank below the mouth of Bear-grass
Greek, extending parallel to the river. There is a fine prospect from
the front street up and down the stream, and of the opposite coast of
the state of Indiana.

A very extensive and active commerce is now carried on between
this place and Natchez. New Orleans, and St. Louis. If the pro-
posed canal is made to pass the rapids, it will augment the improve-
ment ot Louisville to a great extent by establishing manufactures, by
the almost infinite command of water power.

At the lower part of the rapids a town has arisen by the name of
Shipping Port. Several ships, and vessels of all kinds suitable to the
Ohio or Mississippi, have been built at the latter pbce. The faci-
lity of ratting timber down the Ohio, and of cutting it into plank by
the aid of water from a can^l 22 feet fall, will, when the latter
improvement is completed, enable vessels to be built to any possible
extent that an increasing population and commerce could demand,
and upon the most reasonable terms. There would be no known
spot on the globe where the' materials could be more easily collected.*
or more, expeditiously rendered fit for use, not only for the construc-
tion of ships, but dwelling-houses also.

Kentucky has passed the era of rapid increase from emigration,
The best lands are sold and have become expensive The state will
continue to possess the advantage of its local posit. on ; and when the
population of the western preponderate over that of the eastern and
northern states, the seat of gem ra! government will probably be re-
moved into this central state. The period, however, when the weight
of population will have changed its relative situation, is more remote
than HKHrt people are in the habit of calculating. It will be seen by
a review of the several states and territories, given in this treatise.
that as in any new settlement, the best lands and those near naviga-
ble water- courses are transferred to private individuals, the flood of
migration must begin to subside. From this sole cause arises the
less comparative increase of inhabitants, in periods distant from the
original settlement. Tennessee, Kentucky, and indeed all establish-
ments on the valley of Ohio, are examples.

The roads in all the states and territories north of Tennessee, in
the valley of Ohio, are so blended, that a separate list would be un-
necessary and perplexing; therefore the residue of the roads- and main
routes will be given in connexion, at the end of this treatise.

Illinois Territory takes its name from the river of that name, whose
valley forms rattier more than one-half the surface of the territory,
passing through it obliquely from northeast to southwest. The
length of Illinois is from north to south, from the junction of the Ohio
and Mississippi, almost on 3"i° N. lat. to the northern boundary of the
territory 41° 43' N. lat. or 326 miles, its greatest breadth is about the
fortieth degree of north latitude. This territory is bounded on the
southwest, "west, and northwest, by the Mississippi river ; on the

208 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

north by the 41° 43' N. lat. ; east by the state of Ohio, and south-
east and south by the Ouabache and Ohio rivers ; extending over
51,000 square miles, equal to 32,640,000 American acres.

The following statistical table is defective, as but little of the Illi-
nois territory was settled with white inhabitants in 1810.

TOPOGRAPHICAL TABLE.

Counties.

Population.

Towns.

Randolph,

7,275

Kaskaskia.

St. Clair,

5,007

Gallatin,

Edward,

Johnson,

Madison,

12,282

Progressive Geography, — History. — Tt was through the Illinois
river that the fi.st effectual discovery of the Mississippi river was
made by the French. In 1674, two traders, Juliet and Morquetta,
reached the Mississippi through lake Michigan, Fox, and Ouisconsin
rivers. In 1683, from the report of Joliei and Morquetta, the Che-
valier Tonty, M. de la Sale, and Father Luuis Hennepin, under-
dertook an expedition of discovery, and through lake Michigan and.
Illinois reached the Mississippi. The Wabache was soon after ex-
plored, and small establishments made at Vincennes, Cahokia, and
K:;sk;!skia. The greatest part of the country remained in the hands
of the savages until within a few years past.

The original white settlers were French from Canada, but these
people, few in number, and detached from each other, lived by hunt-
ing and Indian traffic, rather than by agrirwlture. In their manner of
life they conformed in great measure to the more numerous savages
hy whom they were environed.

Whilst Indiana remained a territory, Illinois formed a western
part thereof; but when the former became a state, the latter was
created a separate territorial government, divided into three United
States' court districts, in which political form it now continues.

The population is increasing, and must now (1817) considerably
exceed 20,000 people.

Rivers. — The rivers of the Illinois territory, are the Mississippi,
Illinois, Kaskaskia, Ohio, and Wabache.

The Mississippi river forms the boundary of Illinois, following the
winding of the stream for upwards of five hundred miles So much
has already been given on this great stream, in the preceding parts of
this work, as to much abridge what need be added in this place.

Above the mouth of Missouri, the water of the Mississippi river is
clear, and very similar to that of the Ohio. The banks continue for
some distance low, and in many places liable to overflow. The soil
is rich ; extensive prairies often reach and extend along the stream.
About 39° 15' N. lat hills are first found upon the river; above this
place the country gradually rises into eminences of more or less ele-
vation, giving a varied appearance to the scenery.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 209

The peninsula, between the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, has
been surveyed as soldiers' bounty lands. The surface actually sur-
vt red, amounts to an area about equal to 240 regular townships of
3' - r ions each ; equal to 8640 square miles of 640 American acres
each, or an aggregate of 5,530,000 acres nearly. As the act of con-
gress of May bth, IS 12, granting those lands as bounty to the sol-
diers enlisted in the army of the United States, expressly pro-
vide.- riiat the several portions to be graute d under that act, shall be
fit for cultivation, a larger surface than barely sufficient to satisfy the
claims was necessarily surveyed. Three millions five hundred thou-
sand acres are appropriated by congress, and have, it appears, been
selected by the surveyor general, William Rector, Esq. for that ex-
press purpose.

This tract lies between 38° 47' and 41° 47' N. lat., and between
12° and 14° W. Ion. from Washington city. A plan of the townships and
ranges, including the water-courses, has been published at the seat of
the general government, by Mr. John Gardiner. It is much to be re-
gretted, that this map had not contained some detail of the diver-
sity in soil and surface, as well as mere outline. As it is, however,
it affords much valuable information respecting the local features of
the country, and of the relative position of the different townships.
Fronting page 6, of this treatise, is placed a plan of the manner of
surveying pu bite lands. With that plan as a key, any particular sec-
tion may be found upon any general map of public lands.

Regarding topographical position, the peninsula between the Mis-
sissippi and Illinois, presents many advantages as a settlement. Un-
der the article, Missouri territory,' page 137 of this treatise, is given
much of what could be here repeated respecting the climate of the
region near the junction of the Mississippi and Illinois. Towards the
north part of the soldiers' lands, or about 41° N. lat.. a very sensible
change of climate is perceived. The parallel of 41° runs through the
south part of New-York, the north part of New-Jersey, divides Penn-
sylvania into nearly two equal parts, then runs through the northern
parts of the states of Ohio and Indiana, and the Illinois territory.
Contrary to the commonly received opinion on that subject, data are
embodied in this treatise, that tend to establish the fact, that more
cold is experienced on the same latitude in the Mississippi valley,
than on ihe Atlantic coast, east of the Aleghany mountains. If so,
the climate of the lands we have been reviewing, will be found to
bear great resemblance to that of the northern extremity of Ohio and
Indiana. We are strongly inclined to believe that this will be found
to be the case when the country becomes settled.

The Illinois river, bounds the tract on the east and southeast.
Above its junction with the Mississippi, the Illinois river flows from
ihe north about 80 miles, with depth of water for boats ot considerable
draught at all seasons. The river is then found flowing from the south-
east sixty miles ; it then in T. 7. N. R. VII. east, inclines N. N. E.
which is its general course to the northeast extremity of the tract, a
distance of about sixty miies, giving an entire range, from where this
stream comes in contact with the region we have been describing, to
its discharge into the Mississippi, of two hundred miles.
27

■21* EMIGRANT'S GUIDE*

The Illinois is, in all its length, a gentle current, without falls or
even remarkable shoals. Much of its bank is liable to annual inun*
dation and of course rendered unfit for culture. It has been already
remarked that the general surface of the country is prairie, some
part ot which is very fine land, though too much does not deserve so
favourable a character.

Two streams of some consequence flow into the Illinois from the
northwest.

Spoon River, has its discharge in T. 4. N. R. IV. E. Rising near
the northeast part of the soldiers' tract, Spoon river has a course of
upwards Of one hundred miles in length, following its various inflec-
tions ; its general course is nearly parallel to the Illinois. How far
Spoon river is navigable we are unable to say, but judging from ana-
logy, would suppose above one half its entire length

Crooked Creek, falls into Illinois in T. I. S. R. I #E This stream
is marked on Mr. Gardiner's map as a creek, but from its length and
numerous branches, would deserve the title of river; the distance
through which it flows exceeding eighty miles.

Henderson River, enters the Mississippi in T. 10 N R VI W and
rises in the same ridge with the head streams of Spoon river. How
tar the former river is navigable we are unacquainted.

There are various other small rivers and creeks falling into the
Mississippi and Illinois, of less consequence than those we have no-
51™ .°nGard.ners map, there is marked a singular outlet of the
Mississippi, leaving that river in T. 3. S. R. VIII. W. and flowing pa-
rallel to the parent stream forty miles, again falls into it in T. 8. S.
R. IV. VV. Several creeks of considerable length enter this outlet from
the north.

An extensive inundated tract is laid down where 40° N. lat inter-
sects the Mississippi. This tract is about twenty-five miles in ex-
tent north and south. From the data afforded by Gardiner's map,
he country near the margin of the rivers bear a strong resemblance
to the regions adjacent to the Mississippi below the mouth of Ohio.
1 he bends of the rivers washing bluffs, but generally ranging over
inundated lands. Retiring from the streams into the interior, the
surface becomes gradually more elevated and diversified in its gene-
ral aspect. a

From the similarity of climate, the natural and artificial productions
must, in a great degree, resemble those of the adjacent regions in the
same latitudes. Wheat, rye, oats, maize, and other cerealia, can be
produced in great abundance. Meadow grass of all kinds must flou-
rish Fruits, such as apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, and
many others, will no doubt be plentifully reared.

Considering the facility of navigation, by the two great rivers that
encircle it on three sides, and the numerous other streams that flow
from .is central parts, the bounty land offers every necessary facility
to .gation .especially by the route of the Mississippi and Ohio.
J- ule labour would be demanded, however, to open a water
communication through the Illinois to lake Michigan.

I he intervening country is low, and mostly composed of alluvial
materials, presenting impediments to canal navigation that might be

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 211

easily removed. A glance upon the map of the United States, at-
tending this treatise, will enable the reader to perceive the favourable
position of this spot, wisely selected by the general government to
reward the gallantry of the soldiers of our late war.

Illinois river, has never been accurately surveyed above the boun-
ty land, but it is known, however, to rise in the northeast part of the
state o( Indiana, which state it traverses in a western direction one
hundred and thirty miles, enters the Illinois territory, and continuing
west, one hundred and twenty miles, must have a curve to the south-
west, not far from the northeast corner of the bounty land. In all
previous maps of Illinois river, that we have seen, its genera! course
is drawn nearly southwest by west, through, from its source to its
mouth. That course is not very incorrect ; yet, when drawn in that
manner, a very false idea is given of the actual range of the stream.
Indeed, when attentively examined, a very remarkable coincidence
appears in the courses of the Illinois, Wabash, and Ohio rivers. This
is nevertheless a theory in geology, coming more correctly under
consideration in the geographical part of this treatise.

The courses and length of the Illinois river, from its contact with
the bounty lands to its mouth, has been noticed, the entire length be-
ing 390 miles.

Kaskaskia river, rises in the prairies between the Illinois and Wa-
bash, interlocking with the head streams of the Little Water branch
of the latter. The entire length of the Kaskaskia is about 150 miles,
its course southwest by south, nearly. This river is navigable, at
high water, to a considerable distance above its junction with the
Mississippi, a few miles below the town of Kaskaskia. The quality
of the lands, the natural and artificial productions, are nearly the
same found upon the Illinois.

Upon the Kaskaskia are some of the most extensive settlements jet
made in the Illinois territory; the town bearing the same name with
the river is now the seat of government for the territory, a rank it
must soon lose, from its position and the increasing settlements to the
northwest, upon the Illinois river.

Vaseux river, is a stream of eighty miles in length, rising between
the waters of the Kaskaskia and Little Water rivers, and flowing
nearly parallel to the former, falls into the Mississippi some distance
above Cape Girardeau. But few settlements, and none of any con-
sequence, meriting particular notice, have yet been formed upon the
waters of the Vaseux.

Ohio river, washes the southeast part of the Illinois territory, from
the mouth of the Wabash to the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi,
a distance of 136 miles. The banks of the Ohio below that of the
Wabash, assume a general resemblance to those of the Mississippi
below the mouth of Missouri. The concave bank is mostly com-
posed of craggy limestone, the convex bank low, and subject to annual
inundation. These features continue as far down as the Great Cave,
below which both banks become low, and in every essential quality
are similar to those of the Mississippi below the mouth of Ohio. The
settlements are confined to the alluvial border on the river. The
swamps commence from a quarter, to half a mile from the margin of

212

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

the stream. The soil, like most alluvial land, is extremely fertile,

and valuable where elevate.) sufficiently for the

igricul-

ture. The timber gigantic and extremely abundant, i he following
list contains the most remarkable timber trees found on this tract, and
will answer generally for all the adjacent country.

Quercus tinctoria,
Quercus alba,
Que reus rubra,
Quercus phelos,
Lirtodendron tulipifera,
Lauras sassafras,
Juglans amara,
Juglans squamosa,
Juglans olivaeformis,
Juglans nigra,
Juglans cathartica,
Juniperus virginiana,
Acer rubrum,
Acer negundo,
Carpinus ostrya,
Carpinus americana,
Cerasus virginiana,
Cornus florida,
Diospiros virginiana,
Fagus sylvestris,
Fraxinus tomentosa,
Gleiliichia triacanthos,
Nyssa aquatica,
Nyssa sylvatica,
Platanus occidentalis,
Populus angulata,
Tilia pubescens,
Ulmus rubra,
Ulmus americana,
Ulmus aquatica,

Black oak,

White oak,

Red oak,

Willow leafed oak,

Poplar,

Sassafras,

Bitternut hickory,

Shell bark hickory,

Paccan

Black walnut,

White walnut,

Red cedar,

Red maple,

Box alder,

Iron wood,

Hornbeam,

Wild cherry,

Dogwood,

Persimon,

Beech,

Common ash,

Honey locust,

Tupeloo

Black gum,

Sycamore,

Cotton wood,

Linden,

Red elm,

Mucilaginous elm,

Water elm.

There are many other species of trees found upon the rivers and
hills in this tract, besides those marked in the above list, but those
enumerated are the most remarkable and most common. The size
and quantity of valuable timber trees that are every where found east
of St. Louis, upon the banks of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers and
their confluent streams, is not the least remarkable feature in their
natural history, or least beneficial part of their useful properties to
man.

Wabash river, forms part of the southeast limit of Illinois territory,
and possesses great sameness to the Ohio, near the confluence of the
two streams. Several small, but fine rivers rise in the Illinois terri-
tory, and flow southeast into the Wabash, entering that stream be-
low Vincennes : the principal of these are Embarras and Little
Water. These two latter head with the sources of Kaskaskia river.

The other rivers of the Illinois territory are small and unimportant.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 213

Many of the higher branches of the Illinois and Wabash are in the
• Indian country; ot course but imperfectly known.

Mountains, there are none in the country of Illinois, or hills of anv
particular elevation. Some parts of the country is aently rollin/
buti ine far greater part, flat prairie, or the alluvial margin of rivers!

1 owns. kaskaskia, upon the river of that name, is the only town
ot consequence yet formed in the territory of Illinois ; it is the seat
ot government, and contains 800 or 1000 inhabitants.

Cahokia, four mile, below St. Louis, and about one mile from the
ffli§siss,pW, ,s a handsome, but small village. Of the new towns we
have no certain knowledge. No doubt but that the settlements of
he bounty lands will produce a rapid and favourable change in the
territory we have been describing. This settlement will also as we
have already noticed I, necessarily withdraw the seat of government
trom Kaskaskia; and it may be added, change, within a few years
the territorial into a,,state government. '

4 Schools colleges, and aM other institutions, must be here in their
infancy ;; but like other new settlements made by the emigrants from
the United States, the provision for the education of youth is neither
forgotten or neglected. J

Of the mineral or fossil productions of this country, we have *aid
nothing t rom the nature of the soil and surface, neither can be"ex-
pected to abound, and the higher parts, where usually the most valua-
ble and abundan metallic and fossil bodies could be reasonably sought
after, Vve scarcely know, and have never been examined with either
skill or care. [See Appendix JVo. //.)

THE STATE OF INDIANA, has the Illinois territory west,
the state ot Kentucky southeast, the state of Ohio east, and the Michi-
gan territory, and lake Michigan and the Northwest territory, north
of t?Sn P°Pulation' »vers< Productions. This state covers an area
ot 36,640 square miles, equal to 23.449,600 American acres. More
than one halt ot this surface remains yet in possession of the Indians.
The southern and much most valuable part of the state is reclaimed
and is settling with emigrants from the northern and eastern states with
great rapidity. The following statistical table exhibits the subdivi-
sions of this state, and the population in 1810. This can afford but
ve.y defective document to give a correct idea of the present state of
the country. There .s no doubt but that the number of inhabitants
have increased to near one hundred thousand at the present time.

STATISTICAL TABLE OF INDIANA.

Counties. Population. Ghief Towns.

1810. J

£lark' 5,760 Jeffersonville,

Dearborn, 7,310 Lawrenceburg,

Harrison, 3,695 CORYDON,
Jefferson,

Knox, 7,965 Vincennes.

24,610

214 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Since the last census of 1810, the new counties of Washington,
Switzerland, Jefferson, Wayne, Gibson, Posey, and Warwick, have
been formed. The distributive population of the state of Indiana,
at this time, as well as the aggregate amount, must differ essentially
from the relative position and numbers found seven years past.

The rivers of the state of Indiana, are, Ohio, Wabash, Illinois, and
Maumee.

Ohio river washes the state from the mouth of the Great Miami, to
that of the Wabash, a distance, following the bends of the stream, of
three hundred and sixty-five miles. It is a curious fact, that in this
long course, no stream, above the size of a large creek, falls into the
Ohio from Indiana ; White river branch of Wabash, having its head-
streams wilhin thirty miles of the bank of Ohio. There are few
countries in the world can much exceed this part of the banks of
Ohio. The lands are varied, a considerable portion of the first
quality, and but little that can be really considered unproductive.
The settlements are in such quick progress as to render a description
only necessarily correct for the moment.

Wabash river is strictly the principal stream of Indiana, from the
surface of which it draws the far greater part of its waters. The
head branches of Wabash is in the Indian country, of course very
imperfectly explored. This river rises with the Maumee near
Fort Wayne, and like the Illinois, flows to the west through
Indiana, unto almost the west border of the slate, where the river
gradually curves to S. W. by S., which course it maintains to its
junction with the Ohio. The entire length of the Wabash exceeds
three hundred miles ; it is a fine stream, without falls or extraordinary
rapids. It was through the channel of the Wabash that the French
of Canada first discovered the Ohio, to which they gave the name of
Belle Riviere, or beautiful river, but considered the Wabash the
main branch, and gave the united rivers its name. In many old maps
of North America, the Ohio below the junction of the two streams,
is called Wabash. The Tennessee was then very imperfectly known,
and considered at one-fourth the size it was found to possess by sub-
sequent discovery.

While River, the eastern branch of Wabash, is itself a stream of
considerable importance, draining the heart, and far the finest part of
the state of Indiana. About forty miles above its junction with the
Wabash, White river divides into the north and south branches.
North branch rises in the Indian country by a number of creeks,
which, uniting near the Indian boundary line, forms a fine navigable
river of about 180 miles in length : its course nearly S. W. South
branch rises in the same ridges with the White Water branch of
the Great Miami ; its course S. W. by W. 150 miles. Upon this
latter river many of the most flourishing settlements in the state have
been formed. The country it waters is amongst the most agreeable,
healthy, and fertile in the Ohio valley.

Illinois river has its source in Indiana, but has been noticed when
treating of the Illinois territory.

Maumee rises in fact in the state of Ohio, near Fort Lo-
ramie, but flowing N. W. enters the state of Indiana, turns west.

EMIGRANT'S GUIBE. 2J-

encircles Fort Wayne and turning N. E. again enters the state of
Ohio through wh.cb it flows to the place of its egress into Lake Erie.
The southern extremity of Lake Michigan penetrates the state of
Indiana, and at or near its extreme south elongation, receives the Ca-
lumet, and not far north of its S. E. extension, the small river s! Jo-

aftssjs; " of Indiana' but enters the m^» ** h

The country is here but very imperfectly known; even the latitude
of the southern extremity • of Lake Michigan remains uncertain.
When the French possessed Canada and Louisiana, their traders con-
standy passed by Chicago into Illinois, and by the Maumee
into Wabash, ,n the.r voyages. These passages are now Tain
becom.ng frequented, and will, within the lapse of a kw years
present the active transport of commercial wealth, and the daily in-
tercourse of civilized men. y

It may be doubted whether any state of the United State* all
things My considered, can present more advantages than Indiana
Intersected or bounded in all directions by navigable rivers or Jake"'
enjoying a temperate climate, and an immense variety of soil Near
two-thirds of its territorial surface is yet in the hands of the £
a temporary evil, that a short time will remedy. When all the e*
tent comprised within the legal limits of this state are brought into
a state oi improvement, with one extremity upon the Ohio river and
the opposite upon Lake Michigan, with intersecting navigable stre'ams
Indiana will be the real link that will unite the southern ami norS

Fl jhit lrSed Sl*lT- Tbe C°nnexi0" bet™ ^e Can dia"
V ndX0hK10andM^PPi "vers, is by no route so direct
as through Michigan and Wabash, and by Lake Erie, MaunTee
fT Z M- .The.route bY Lak* Michigan and the Illinois r^er
into the Mississippi is more circuitous than by that of the W,
hash into either Lakes Michigan or Erie, and the route through Ilh"
nois has another irremediable disadvantage, that of being in a* more
northern latitude than the Wabash. .

When the rivers are in a state of flood, loaded boats of conside-
rable size pass from the head waters of Wabash into St MW
river, the western branch of the Maumee; the same feS
•f passage exists between Maumee; the Chicago So the l3t
noisriver* These facts prove two things: first, the almo^perfec
level of the country and secondly, the great ease with wWch^nafa

5 the ZtT ? ! iba 7 ty lTed 6XpenSe °f their consTructon
Jj 1h Fent Srat! °fT P?PuhU™> the communication by the Wa.
h.sh and Miam, of the Lakes into Lake Erie, must n^duae ad^n-
ages of greatly more extensive benefit, than by Lake Michigan and
Illinois river. Many years must elapse before either is opened The
SSS;S '« Wi,derness' ^ the right of soil in the «*£

Like Illinois territory, the state of Indiana has no mountains- the

ohr0r;Lr°:vever raoie m than the foraer' ?*nMy ^ £

pageS.I)rake,SCinCinnati' PaSe222and 223. Volney, Paris editi.n, tM

216 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

The southeastern extremity of Indiana, between White and Ohio
rivers, is very broken. A ridge of hills commences above the junc-
tion of the Wabash and Ohio, which extending in a N.E dirction
through Indiana, Ojbio, Pennsylvania, is finally lost in tiie state of
New-York. This ridge in Indiana separates the waters of Wabash
from those of Ohio river ; and in Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New-
York, forms the demarkation between the streams which flow into the
Canadian lakes from those which discharge their waters intu the Ohio.
No part of this ridge is very elevated ; its component parts are lime-
stone and schistose sandstone. It is barren of minerals except iron
and coal.

Towns— Villages — Schools. — Cory don, on the road from Louisville to
Vincennes, is now the seat of government. This town is recent, but
rapidly improving. The number of its houses or inhabitants we are
unable to state, and it would not, if now accurately given, remain so
one year

Vincennes, upon the left bank of the Wabash, is the oldest and
the largest town in the state ; having been built by the French from
Canada ; most of the inhabitants are of French extraction. The site
of the town is level, and when in its natural state, was an extensive
prairie. The lands are fertile in a high degree. In a commercial
point of view, the position of this town is very advantageous, and
must advance rapidly. Standing upon the limit of two territorial di-
visions, Vincennes cannot ever again become the seat of government,
a loss more than compensated by a favourable situation for agricul-
ture, and the transport of produce to New-Orleans, Pittsburg, and in-
deed to the entire western and southern parts of the United States.

Blackford, Harmony, Madison, Lawrenceburg, and Brookville, are
all towns of this state. Being of recent formation, they are mostly
small, and have nothing very worthy of notice to distinguish them
from each other.

No good topographical or statistical account having been yet pub-
lished upon this state, the data a*re not abundant respecting its towns
or other artificial improvements.

The political institutions of this new state are honourable in a
high degree to the framers ; the const itul ion of the state provided
every restraint against the encroachments of power, and the licen-
tiousness of freedom, that human wisdom can perhaps foresee. Sla-
very is banished from the state, or rather it never was received with-
in its borders. The inhabitants at this moment enjoy all that liberty,
industry, and impartial administration of justice c*n bestow.

Colleges and schools can scarce be considered to exist as public in-
stitutions ; private schools are numerous, and increasing with the
population.

Productions—Staples — Flour may be comidered the principal ar-
tificial production and staple. Much of the land is well calculated to
produce wheat. Mill streams abouiul. R) e is also extensively cul-
tivated, and used as bread grain, to feed horses, ami to supply the
distillers. Maize is, next to wheat, the most valuable crop cultivated
in Indiana. The fertile alluvion upon the rivers an<i many pa of
the prairies are admirably adap'e<) to the production ol fl# n* I]t
vegetable. The 4uanlity made from an acre of land cannot be de-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE 217

termined with any precision ; but the production is generally abun-
dant. In all the new settlements in the Ohio and Mississippi valley,
maize is the crop first resorted to for providing subsistence, and we
believe it to be the only grain that in many piaces would have ren-
dered settlement possible. The rapidity of its growth and the easy
application of its farina to use, will always secure to maize a rank
amongst the most precious vegetables yet cultivated by mankind.

Oats, barley, and buckwheat, are also reared; the former in great
abundance as food for horses. Potatoes (Irish potatoes) are culti-
vated in plenty, as is a great variety of pulse. Pumpio'ns, squashes,
melons, and cucumbers are cultivated and may be produced in any as-
signable quantity.

In do country could artificial meadow be made to more advantage.
This useful part of agriculture is almost always neglected in our new
settlements, and only becomes an object of attention when the natu-
ral range is exhausted. The jjreat body of the emigrants coming
from places where artificial meadows are in use, their immense bene^
fits are not to be learned by all.

For domestic consumption and exportation, are made large quan-
tities of beef, pork, butter, lard, bacon, leather, whiskey, and peach
brandy. With but little exception, Natchez and New Orleans are
the outlets of the surplus produce of Indiana A few articles are oc-
casionally sent to Pittsburgh, but that commerce, never extensive, is
on the decline. The attention of the inhabitants is drawn towards
the natural channel, through which their wealth must circulate. Su-
gar, coffee, wines, and foreign ardent spirits, are brought from New
Orleans, but of the former necessary, considerable quantity is made
in the country from the sap of the sugar maple tree.

Dry goods, hardware, ironmongery, paper, and books, are mostly
imported by the route of Pittsburg. Some of all those articles, the
two latter perhaps excepted, are also imported from New Orleans.
Saddles, bridles, hats, boots, and shoes, are manufactured, in great
part, in the state. This indeed is a trait that marks the whole west-
ern states, that the latter indispensable articles of domestic consump-
tion are generally to be found at every new settlement, for prices
not greatly advanced above that of the same objects in large commer-
cial cities on the Atlantic coast.

The same observations may be made respecting cabinet, and all
other kinds of household furniture. Tables, chairs, and bedsteads,
are made in all the large towns in the valleys of Ohio and Missis-
sippi, with all the requisite qualities of elegance and strength.

Except in Lexington, Kentucky, and Pittsburg, book printing is
not yet done to any considerable extent west of the Aleghany. In
these two latter places and in Cincinnati, Nashville, and some other
places, book stores have been established to considerable extent, but a
well assorted library could not be formed in any, or perhaps all those
towns. Professional men, and indeed all men who are emigrating to
the west, ought to carry with them such books as they may need. It
is not without more difficulty than is commonly believed to exist, that
a good selection of books can be made even in New-York or Phila-
delphia, much less in towns upon the Ohio or Mississippi waters.
28

(218)

CHAPTER VI.

STATE OF OHIO. This stale is bounded on the west by the
state of Indiana, north by the Michigan territory and lake Erie, east
by Pennsylvania and the Ohio river, and southeast and south by
the Ohio river; having a frontier in common with Indiana, Michigan,
Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Kentucky.

Population — extent. — The following statistical table exhibits the
present county divisions, and population as it stood in 1810 and 1815.

TOPOGRAPHICAL TABLE.

Counties.

Population.

Chief Towns and Pc

1810.

1815.

Adams

9,434

10,410

West Union

Ashtabula

3,200

Jefferson

Athens

2,791

3,960

Athens

Belmont

11,097

12,200

St. CJairsville

Butler

1 1 , 1 50

11,890

Hamilton

Cuyahoga

1,459

2,500

Cleveland

Champaign

6,303

10,460

Urbanna

Clermont

9,965

12,240

Williamsburgh

Clinton

2,674

4,600

Wilmington

Columbiana

10,878

13,600

New Lisbon

Coshocton

3,000

Coshocton

Dark

1,500

Greenville

Delaware

2,000

5,000

Delaware

Fairfield

4,361

18,660

Mew Lancaster

Fayette

1,854

3,700

Washington

Franklin

3,486

6,800

Franklin
COLUMBUS

Gallia

4,181

6,000

Gallipolis

Geauga

2,917

3,000

Chardon

Guernsey

3,051

4,800

Cambridge

Green

5,870

8,000

Zenia

Hamilton

15,258

18,700

CINCINNATI

Harrison

7,300

Cadiz

Highland

5,760

7,300

Hillsborough

Huron

1,500

Avery

Jefferson

17,260

15,000

Steubenville

Knox

2,149

3,000

Mount Vernon

Licking

3,852

6,400

Newark

Madison

1,603

2,100

New London

Medina

Mecca

Miami

3,941

5,910

Troy

Monroe

1,200

Montgomery

7,722

13,700

Day ton

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

219

Counties.

Population.

Chief towns andpopu

1810.

1815.

Muskingum

10,036

1 1 ,200

Zanesville

Pickaway

7,124

9,260

Circleville

Portage

• 2,995

6,000

Ravenna

Preble

3,304

5,509

Eaton

Richland

3,900

Mansfield

Ross

15,514

18,000

Chillicothe

Scioto

3,399

3,870

Portsmouth

Stark

2,734

6,625

Canton

Trumbull

8,671

10.000

Warren

Tuscarawas

3,045

3,880

New Philadelphia

Warren

9,925

12,000

Lebanon

Washington

5,991

3,800

Marietta

Wayne

7,100
322,790

Wooster.

230,760

In the tables included in the geographical treatise published with
this work, the population of the state of Ohio is calculated to amount
to 346,000, in the present year, 1817. By the information contained
in Kilbourn's Ohio Gazetteer, that state possessed, in 1815, 322,790
inhabitants. Both the foregoing estimates fall short no doubt of the
actual numbers at the epocha assumed. At the commencement of
1818 the inhabitants of the state of Ohio will most probably exceed
350,000.

No state in the United States has been' so accuratel}' surveyed as
that part of Ohio which has been hitherto settled, of course none
exists the area of which is so perfectly known. The inhabited parts
of the state extends over an area of about 32,000 square miles, or
20,480,000 American acres. The . northwest part of the state,
amounting to within a small fraction of 8,000 square miles, remains
yet in possession of the Indian tribes ; a considerable portion of this
latter tract was however recently purchased from the savages.

The entire area of the state of Ohio is very little above 40,000
square miles, or 25,600,000 acres.

Natural geography, — rivers, — lakes,— -mountains, — kills, — minerals.
— The rivers of the state of Ohio are, the Ohio, Great Miami, Little
Miami, Scioto, Hockhocking, Muskingum, Cayahoga, Ashtabula,
Sandusky, Grand river, and Maumee.*

Ohio river, forms the limit of the state of Ohio, from Georgetown
in Pennsylvania, where the line between the latter state and Virginia
intersects the Ohio, to the mouth of the Great Miami ; a distance of
412 miles, following the sinuosities of the stream. From Georgetown
to Big Sandy river, the Ohio divides Virginia from the state of Ohio ;

* Dr. Drake has given to the Miami of the lakes the name oiMaumee, without
explaining why. It is painful and disgusting to read the awkward descriptive
names so often given to American rivers; it was no doubt with a view to ob-
viate this inelegant repetition that this judicious author adopted this name, but
the two sounds produced by Miami and Maumee are too similar to ensure the
desired purpose effectually.

220 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

from the mouth of Big Sandy to that of the Great Miami, the Ohic
river separates the state of Kentucky from the state of Ohio.

Where if washes the state of Ohio, the river forms an immense
bend : presenting its convexity into Virginia and Kentucky. Oppo-
site t!.e former the general course is nearly southwest ; but below the
mouth of Big Sandy the Ohio turns to northwest by west, nearly
wh ch course it maintains to the mouth of the Great Miami. There
are many partial bends that add to the varieties of this beautiful
stream. That part of Ohio river which we are now describing, con-
tains the most pleasing part of its scenery, and the most fertile of its
shores. It is in reality difficult to conceive of any river of the world
winding through a valley mere rich in the bounties of nature, or more
el* ntly chequered with hill and dale. Many picturesque islands
contribute to give relief to this delightful canvass. In a distance of
upwards of four hundred miles not one bend of the river but what
presents a new landscj pe entirely different from that of any other.
The bottoms are from a quarter to a mile wide, having generally
a perceptible slope backwards to the base of the hills. The soil is
uniformly fertile in a high degree, producing, in great abundance,
wheat, maize, rye, oats, barley, and indeed every product necessary
to human subsistence that the climate will admit.

Fruits are also produced in great quantity and of excellent quality,
particularly apples and peaches. The Ohio-bottoms are supposed to
produce the latter fruit in greater degree of perfection than any other
part of North America hitherto peopled by the whites. These
bottoms have been also considered the favourite soil of maize ; that
grain does indeed reach in this rich loam the utmost developement
of its growth

There are upon the margin of the Ohio, often two, and sometimes
three, bottoms, rising one above another by elevations of 20 or 3®
feei. The soil of the highest and lowest does not differ materially,
and though erremely fertile, wheat succeeds perfectly well upon
all. For a few years after being first cleared from wood, wheat is
apt to grow too heavy in the straw and fall before becoming ripe j
but four or five yea is culture removes this exuberance, and wheat
comes to full perfection.

This favourable representation of the lands upon the Ohio must be
confined to the bottoms of that river ; the most hilly and broken part
oft e state of Ohio is that part immediately contiguous to the river.
These hills are rich in mineral coal, which have been found in a great
number of places, and no doubt exists in the entire range of hills that
skirt the Ohio in ali the extent of the state. Iron ore has also been
discovered in several places. Those hills are in their natural state
covered with a dense torest, composed of a great variely of valuable
timber trees ; and amongst otheis the various species of oaks, poplar,
ash, elm, linden, and maples, may be considered the most pre-
dominant. Sugar maple is in many parts very abundant, large and
productive.

Great Miami, rises in the Indian country by two branches, which
unite in Miami county. The united itreams flow south through

EMIGRANTS GUIDE. 22 i

Miami and Montgomery counties, enters the northeast corner of But-
ler, through which and Hamilton counties it continues in a southwest
by south course to its junction with Ohio river, 39° 04' north lat.
7° 35' west Ion. from Washington city. The entire length of the
Great Miami is ahout 130 miles, above 100 of which are in the set-
tlements. Several branches fall into this river ; the White water and
Southwest branch from the west, and Mad river from the east. The
two latter enter the Great Miami a short distance above the town of
Dayton, 75 miles above tne mouth ; thus far the river is navigable.
Like all the waters ol the state of Ohio which flow into Ohio river.,
the cunent of the Great Miami is excessively rapid ; as is also that of
all its branches. This trait in the mtural history of those rivers arises
from the quick descent from the high table land in the centre of the
state.

Little Miami. The main branch of this stream rises in Green
county, through which and Warren county it flows in a southwest di-
rection, then, for twelve miles, forms the Jimit between Hamilton and
Clermont counties, receives a branch from the eastward and enters the
former county, and alter traversing its surface eight miles, falls int®
the Ohio six miles above the town of Cincinnati. The entire length
of this stream, by either branch, is about sixty miles in a direct line,
but more than twice that distance if the meanders of the stream are
pursued. The cbannc 1 of this river is very precipitous, affording an
immense number of mill seats; many of which are already improved.
One or two paper mills are already erected on its banks.

Sciota river, rises in the Indiana country, north of Champaign
county. The country out of which this river flows is morass; the
head branches interlock with those of Sandusky, au Glaize branch of
Maumee, and with those of the Great Miami. Whetstone river, the
northwest branch of Sciota, rises in Richland county, flows over the
northern oblong of Delaware county, enters the Indian country,
which it traverses in a southwest course, and again enters Delaware
county. Seven miles along the Indian boundary line, from where
that line is passed by the Whetstone, it is intersected by the Sciota ;
the two rivers flow a little south of east, nearly parallel, upwards of
thirty miles, over the surface of Delaware and Franklin counties, and
finally unite at the town of Columbus, the seat of government for the
state of Ohio. The united streams form the Sciota, which, pursuing
nearly a south course of upwards of one hundred miles through
Franklin, Pickaway, Ross, Pike, and Sciota counties, joins the Ohio
river at the town of Portsmouth. The tributary streams of the Sciota
are from the southwest, Paint creek, Deer creek, Darby's creek, and
Mil! creek; those from the southwest are, Salt creek, Walnut creek,
and Big-belly creek.

The liciota is an extremely rapid river, but the stream falling gra-
dually, it is navigable to the town of Columbus ; towards its source
the country is marshy, in the middle level, though not absolutely
flat, wi'h much fertile soil ; towards the Ohio- the country becomes
very hilly and broken.

Hockkocking river, rises in Fairfield county, near New Lancaster,

222 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

and, winding through a very hilly country, falls into the Ohio river at
Troy, after a course of about eighty miles in a southeast direction.

This river has two considerable falls, which by abruptly precipi-
tating the volume of water to nearly a level with that in the Ohio,
renders this small stream the greatest distance navigable, compara-
tively with its length, of any stream in the state of Ohio.

Muskingum river, — the most extensive river whose entire sources
and course are in the state ; its extreme north sources are in Richland,
Wayne, and Stark counties, interlocking with the head waters of Hu-
ron, Vermilion, Black, Rocky, and Cuyahoga rivers, which fall into
lake Erie. The Muskingum is formed by the union of White Wo-
man's and Tuskarowas rivers, at the town of Coshocton, in Coshoc-
ton county.

White Woman's river, is itself formed by the junction of Owl and
Mohecan creeks, a few miles above the town of Coshocton. Owl
creek rises in the southwest corner of Richland and Mohecan, in the
centre of Richland and the western part of Wayne county, by two
large creeks, which join in the southwest corner of the latter; the
united streams flow south into Knox, through which it ranges twelve
miles, turns southeast into Coshocton county, quickly joins with
Owl creek, and forms White Woman's river. Killbuck creek rises in
Medina county, and after a southern course of about sixty miles
through Medina, Wayne, and Coshocton counties, falls into White
Woman's river six miles northwest of the town of Coshocton.

Tuscarawas river. The north branch of this stream, Indian creek,
rises in the Medina county, and pursuing a southeast course of twenty-
five miles, through Medina, Wayne, and Stark counties, then, within
the latter, bends to the south, and continues that direction thirty-five
miles, to near the centre of Tuscarawas county, where it turns west-
southwest, and after following that course thirty miles, joins White*
Woman's, and forms the Muskingum river ; the entire length of the
Tuscarawas is nearly eighty-five miles. By a very circuitous chan-
nel of upwards of one hundred miles, below the junction of White
Woman's and Tuscarawas rivers, the Muskingum falls into the Ohio
river at Marietta, having only received, in this latter distance, one
creek worthy particular notice, that is. Licking creek, from the
county of the same name, a small stream of about thirty miles in
length.

The Muskingum is navigable to the town of Coshocton for batteaux
of considerable size ; smaller vessels ascend its tributary streams, at
high water, forty or fifty miles higher. At Zanesville, near the mouth
i)f Licking creek, the Muskingum is obstructed by considerable falls.
A company was incorporated in 1814, to construct lock navigation
around these falls ; the operations of the company are commenced ;
estimated expense, one hundred thousand dollars.

A remark made respecting the country watered by the Sciota, is
equally applicable to that of the Muskingum j that of becoming more
hilly as the Ohio river is approached. The region watered by the
Tuscarawas is also much more broken than that of White Woman's
liver. The current of the Muskingum and all its branches is very
rapid.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 223

Some of the best land in the state is upon this river; the country-
watered by it has considerable resemblance to the western parts of
Pennsylvania.

The peninsula included between the Ohio and Muskingum rivers
is far the most broken part of the state of Ohio. In this tract lime-
stone and mineral coal abound. No streams of any considerable
consequence enter the Ohio river from either bank, between Big Bea-
ver and Muskingum, a distance of upwards of one hundred miles.
The Monangehela and Muskingum rivers flows nearly parallel to
each other, though in opposite directions, and preserve very nearly an
equal distance from the Ohio, about foity miles ; the intermediate
spaces extremely broken.

Big Beaver rises partly in the state of Ohio, but its , mouth is in
Pennsylvania : that part of this stream, Mahoning creek, which rises
in the stale of Ohio, has its source in Portage county, flows east into
Trumbull, in which latter county, at the town of Warren, it turns
southeast, which course it pursues until passing the line of demarka-
tion between the two states, it leaves Ohio and enters Pennsylvania,
a short distance within which it falls into the Ohio river at the town
of Beaver,

The dividing line between the waters which flow into the Ohio
river, from those which enter Lake Erie, winds through Ashtabula,
Trumbull, Portage, Medina, and Richland counties. Leaving the
white settlements, this line runs through the Indian country, first west
between the head waters of the Sciota and au Glaize rivers, then
turning southwest between the sources of the Maumee and Miami,
enters the state of Indiana. This dividing line, in nearly all its range
in the state of Ohio, traverses high table land, some parts of which
are marshy, none very hilly. The line after leaving Pennsylvania,
gradually declines from Lake Erie, in such manner that the rivers that
enter that lake, have a nearly regular increase of length, advancing
through the state of Ohio from northeast to southwest. The most re-
markable of these lake streams, are, the Maumee, Sandusky, Huron.
Vermilion, Black, Rocky, Cayahoga, Chagrine, Grand, and Ashta-
bula rivers.

Maumee river rises in the Indian country, near Fort Loramie,
flows first, by the name of St. Mary's river, southwest thirty-five
miles, enters the state of Indiana, thence turns west thirty miles,
again enters Ohio, and assuming a northeastern course, runs twenty-
five miles and unites with the au Glaize river, and now assuming the
name of Maumee, continues N. E. seventy-five miles to Lake Erie.
The au Glaize river rises near the sources of the St. Mary's, but
flows very nearly west forty miles, receives Blanchard's fork, and
twenty miles farther joins the St. Mary. The Maumee is navigable
from the border of Indiana to within a short distance of its mouth,
where it is obstructed by falls and rapids. The lands are represent-
ed to be extremely fertile which are watered by this stream ; much
of the surface is however either prairie or marshy. An immense
swamp lies between the Maumee aud Sandusky, and reaches nearly
to the au Glaize river. The entire length of the Maumee, exclusive
of its particular windings, is one hundred and sixty-five miles.

SJB4 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Sandusky river rises in the same swamp with the Sciola, and flows
north sixty miles into Sandusky Bay. This river receives but tew
tributary streams, is a very rapid stream, but little impeded by
shoals or falls. The land it waters is a great part prairie, much of it
marshy.

The other rivers falling into Lake Erie, have but little to distin-
guish them from each other, and nothing to render a particular de-
scription necessary.

It has been already observed, that there are no mountains in the
state of Ohio: it has also been noticed that the border of the state
along the state of Ohio, is extremely hilly and broken. Those hills
do not however rise above the central table land ; they appear indeed
to be merely the remains left by the rivers, which in the lap>e of
a^es have worn down their channels to their present level. The
bills abound in mineral coal lying in horizontal strata. It is more
than probable, that by sinking shafts to sufficient depth, that coal
would be found in most parts of the central table land.

Except coal, the state of Ohio does not appear to be very rich in
minerals ; salt springs have been found upon Sciota, some of which are
now in operation. Iron has been discovered near the Ohio river in
many places. Limestone of excellent quality abounds. The most
abundant rock is however sandstone slate ; this stone may be con-
sidered the basis of the country.

Progressive Geography — History — Towns. — The first civilized na-
tion who discovered the country now called the state of Ohio was the
French, wVjo reached this region from Canada. It does not appear
that this nation ever made any settlements of consequence within
what is now the limits of this state. The country remained in the
possession of the savages until long after the termination of the revo-
lutionary war. The Shawnees, Mingoes, and Potawatomies, were
the principal tribes who inhabited this fine country. The first per-
manent settlement made by the whites was in 1787, at the mouth of
the Muskingum. Rufus Putnam, under the direction of the Ohio
Company, commenced Marietta, and the following year John Cleves
Symnes made an establishment at the north bend. A war with the
savages soon after commenced, and in a great measure prevented the
progress of settlement. After a sanguinary contest of five years,
this was terminated by the treaty of Greenville, August 20th, 1795.
This was the real epoch of the settlement of this now flourishing
state. That part included in the counties named in the statistical
tables prefixed, was then ceded, and soon after surveyed and sold.
The cheapness of all the lands and fertility of great part, invited an
immediate and very numerous emigration. The class of people who
have populated Ohio, has been in great part farmers from the north-
ern and middle states. The prohibition of involuntary servitude
has taken from useful labour that tacit odium so prevalent in the
southern states, and has contributed to secure to the state of Ohio a
numerous body of useful, industrious, and respectable mechanics and
artisans. As far as equality in condition and civil rights can secure
the happiness of a people, the inhabitants of the state of Ohio pos-
sess those advantages.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. S2|

The tenure of the lands being drawn from the United States, liti-
gation arising from disputed titles must be very rare. The mode ef
surveying the public lands, has also a tendency to simplify the de-
markation between individual proprietors, and renders certain what in
many other countries, and even in parts of the United States, is the
fruitful source of animosity and legal disquisition. This latter im-
provement in land tenure, is not however pecuiiar to Ohio ; it is en-
joyed in common by all persons, in any part of the United States,
who hold their titles from the government. To know and appreciate
the full value of this mode of conveyance, it is only necessary to
contrast the history of land titles in Pennsylvania and Kentucky with
that in Ohio. So recent, however, has been the commencement of
sales from the United States, and the lands actually held in that man-
ner are comparatively so confined in extent,* that the benefits arising
therefrom are but partially enjoyed.

As in every other part of the United States, perhaps of the world,
the first settlements extended along the rivers, and were rapid in ad-
vance and compact in their formation, following the fertility of the
soil, and facility of commercial ingress and egress. A line drawa
from Steubenville in Jefferson county, to Hamilton in Hamilton coun-
ty, will run very nearly through the most fertile, and far the most
compactly peopled parts of the state. The following view of the
towns of the state of Ohio, will exhibit the rapid increase of a re-
gion, to the improvement of which not an axe was laid thirty years
before this article was written.

CINCINNATI, though not now the seat of government for the
state, is, after Pktsburg, the first commercial town of the Ohio valley.
This flourishing town stands upon the right bank of the Ohio river,
22 miles above the mouth of the Great Miami, at 39° 06' N. lat. 7*
20' W. Ion. from Washington city.

The progress of this place is an abridgment of the history of im-
provement in the Ohio valley. Fort Washington, the germ of Cin-
cinnati, was formed in 1783, and soon after the town was surveyed.
Many years passed away before the Indian wars and other impedi-
ments permitted any improvements of consequence to take place.

In 1815, Cincinnati contained upwards of 600 dwelling-houses,
and perhaps 7G00 inhabitants. Beside dwelling-houses, more than
500 other buildings were occupied as stores, warehouses, schools,
places of worship, courts of law, manufactories, and other purposes.
Many of those buildings are large and elegant, constructed of stone
or brick. Several denominations of Christians have churches, splen-
did and spacious ; the most remarkable are those possessed by the
Baptists, Presbyterians, Methodists, and Friends. The building in
Cincinnati that most deserves the attention of strangers, and which
on review must excite a glow of the very best feelings of human
nature, is the Lancasterian school-house. This edifice consists of
two wings, and a connecting building containing the stair-cases. One
of the wings is appropriated to boys, the other to girls. Upwards of
400 children are now educated in this seminary, and the house is

* September 30th, 1814, only 5,3S5,467 acres of public land had been sold.
J'itkins' View, p. 334.

226 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

calculated to receive 1100. Amongst the many objects that must
arrest the attention and claim the admiration of the traveller, there is
none that can deserve his attention more than this institution. Virtue,
science, and the principles of social life, are now taught, where, less
than thirty years past, stood a forest ; or if the human form or habita-
tion made their appearance, it was the species in its rudest state of
savage life.

Here are aho three brick market-houses, in which are exposed
every necessary, and many luxuries of life. An enormous stone
building is erected on the bank of Ohio as a steam manufactory ; it is
nine stories high, and intended for making flour and oil, and also to
be used as a fulling mill. A steam saw mill is also erected. A large
building has been raised by the Cincinnati manufacturing company,
for the execution of their operations. There are one woollen and
four cotton factories, two glass-houses, a sugar refinery, and two or
three breweries.

Two printing-offices publish each a weekly paper. There are
three banking establishments in Cincinnati ; two professedly such,
and one commercial association, which issue promissory notes, and
discount as a banking company.

The prosperity of Cincinnati is a proof of the insuperable advan-
tage of early establishment and of previous wealth and enterprise.
Louisville is certainly more favourably situated to become the entre-
pot between the Mississippi and Ohio, yet though at the head of
constant batteaux navigation, and of antecedent establishment, the
latter town has languished when compared with thejbrmer.

The ground upon which Cincinnati is built gives it many advan-
tages in point of cleanliness, beauty, and convenience. Two bottoms,
one upon the margin of Ohio river, the other rising like the step of
an amphitheatre 30 or 40 feet. This circumstance enables the in-
habitants to drain their streets into the Ohio, and opens a vent for the
air in all directions.

In brief, Cincinnati shares with Pittsburg the commerce of the
valley of Ohio ; the former is to the Mississippi what the latter is to
Baltimore, New- York, and Philadelphia. If any calculation could
be hazarded upon the advance of either, it might perhaps be justifia-
ble to predict that for a great length of time these two towns will bear
very nearly the same relation to each other that they do at this time.

Hamilton, the seat of justice for Butler county, and a post town,
26 miles north from Cincinnati and 105 southwest from Columbus,
contains between sixty and one hundred dwelling-houses, a printing
office, and several merchants' stores. This town is situated upon the
east bank of great Miami.

Dayton, the seat of justice for Montgomery county, is situated upon
the left bank of Great Miami, immediately below the mouth of Mad
river; it is also a post town, containing about one hundred dwelling-
houses ; a number of wealthy merchants are settled in this place, who
transact business with the rich country in the vicinity. The neigh-
bourhood of Dayton presents a great number of mills, and other ma-
chines propelled by water. There are in the town one bank, an
academy, and several houses of religious worship. It is distant from
Columbus west by south 66 miles, and b?. north from Cincinnati.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 527

Williamsburg, in Clermont county, has a post office, is the seat of
justice for the county, and is a flourishing village upon the east branch
of Little Mianii.

Chillicothe, in Ross county, is the second town in population and
wealth in the state ; it stands upon the right bank of the Sciota at
39° 20' north lat. 5° 53' west Ion. from Washington city. It was laid
out in 1796, and now contains near 500 dwelling-houses, and 3,500
inhabitants. The situation of this town is singular and romantic ; it
stands upon a bend of Sciota river, with a hill of near three hundred
feet elevation on the west side of the town, affording from its summit a
delightful view of the river and adjacent country.

The improvements made in this town and vicinity are numerous
and valuable. Of public buildings, the most noted are three places of
public worship, an academy, court-house, and market-house. Here
are four cotton factories, and a great number of mills and machines
of different kinds ; three printing offices, which publish a weekly
paper each. The central position of Chillicothe gives it many advan-
tages for the transaction of the interior commerce of the country in
its neighbourhood. It is situated 45 miles south of Columbus, and
93 nearly north by east of Cincinnati.

Columbus, the capital of the state of Ohio, is a flourishing new
town iaid out in 1812, upon the left bank of the Sciota river, at 39°
47' north lat. 6° Oi' west Ion. from Washington city. It stands near
the centre of Franklin county, and within twenty miles of the centre
of the state, in a fine fertile country; of course, the inhabitants may
safely conclude that the town will continue to be the seat of govern-
ment.

To persons from Europe, many of the facts related of the improve-
ments in the valley of Ohio must appear almost incredible, and none
certainly can approach the marvellous and yet be strictly true, more
than the history of the town of Columbus.

The lots were first exposed for sale in June, 1812, and the town
nowj contains upwards of three hundred dwelling-houses, and about
two thousand inhabitants ; four or five schools, a bank, two or three
printing offices, ten or twelve mercantile stores; a state-house, 75
by 50 feet, and a penitentiary.

Columbus is 115 miles northeast from Cincinnati.

Zanesville, the seat of justice for Muskingum county, and a post
town, stands upon the left bank of Muskingum river, opposite to the
mouth of Licking creek, at 39° 58' north lat. and 5° 02' west Ion.
It has upwards of 20 stores, 350 dwelling-houses, and 1500 inhabit-
ants. Two glass factories have been erected in its vicinity. The
town possesses two banks, two or three printing offices, and several
places of worship.

The falls in the Muskingum near this town provide a natural facili-
ty for the erection of labour-saving machinery, which the inhabitants
seem disposed to improve to the utmost. Already have been erected
a nail cutting machine, many flour mills, a woollen factory, and seve-
ral saw-mills. Two bridges of stone have been built over the Mus-
kingum near this town, connecting it with Putnam, a village on the
opposite bank. Putnam is itself a place of considerable consequence,
containing an academy, a number ©f stores, about 500 inhabitants

22S EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

who vie with those of Zanesville in active enterprise; in reality the
two places may be strictly considered as one town. Putnam is mark-
ed on Hough & Bournes's map by the name of Springfield, though
the name has changed by a legislative act at the session of 1813-14.

The situation of these towns, either as a manufacturing or mercan-
tile position, is very advantageous. The navigation of the Muskingum
is uninterrupted to the mouth. The adjacent country is fertile and
well peopled ; it is situated 138 miles southwest by west from Pitts-
burg, 67 northeast from Chillicothe, and 161 northeast by east from
Cincinnati.

Marietta, is the oldest town in the state, some of the settlers having
formed their locations in 1787. It is a post town and seal of justice
for Washington county, and is situated upon the peninsula formed by
the Muskingum and Ohio rivers, at 39° 30' north lat. and 4° 28' west
Ion. from Washington city.

The advance of this town in relative importance has not borne a
proportion to its prior settlement or apparent favourable position.
The site of the town though otherwise delightful, is liable to annual
overflow ; an inconvenience which, from the peculiar localities, is ir-
remediable.

Ship-building commenced here about 1800, and was many years
carried on ; several vessels were built, but the interruption in
commerce bet ween] 8 06 and 1815 suspended this business ; a wealthy
commercial and exporting company has been recently formed in this
town, which will no doubt add greatly to its future prosperity.

The mail arrives here direct from Washington, a distance of 320
miles ; there is a distributing post office for the various other parts of
the state. The number of inhabitants may amount perhaps to 1000.

Steubeuville, the seat of justice for Jefferson county, and a post
town, stands upon the right bank of Ohio, at 40° 25' north lat. and
3° 40' west Ion. from Washington city. The site of this town is
like that of Cincinnati, composed of two banks rising from the river.
The scenery in the -neighbourhood is romantic and pleasing ; the op-
posite shore of Virginia is a bold ledge of rocks rising abruptly almost
from the water edge to an . elevation of 250 or 300 feet. Though
very hilly and broken in both Virginia and the state of Ohio, the ad-
jacent country affords much very fertile bottoms and high land. It is
one of the most wealthy, best peopled and cultivated tracts in the
United States west of the Aleghany mountains.

The town was laid out in streets and lots in 1798. The author
of this treatise was on the spot in the first week of January, 1799;
there was then one mercantile store, two slight frame houses, and
about a dozen miserable cabins. Most of the ground was covered
with a thick forest; little appearance was then exhibited of the
flourishing and beautiful town that now adorns the banks of the Ohio.
Within one month of 18 years (February, 18 17,) after the time of the
foregoing description, Steubenville contained upwards of 4.50 dwelling-
houses, and a population of 2000 inhabitants ; a printing office,
woollen and cotton factory, paper-mill, near 60 mercantile stores, a
bank, a spacious market house, an air foundry. In the vicinity are
several saw an J gristmills, as also a number of distilleries.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 229

This i«wn possesses the invaluable advantage of having an almost
inexhaustible body of mineral coal within a short distance. Lime-
stone, excellent building stcne, and also sandstone exist in abun-
dance near the bank of Ohio river, both above and below the town.
Iron ore is found in both the states of Virginia and Ohio ; a furnace
and a forge were in operation upon King's creek, in Brooke county,
Virginia, in 1799, within eight miles from Steubenville ; bar iron is
however imported from Pennsylvania.

The foregoing are the principal towns of the state of Ohio : there
are several very flourishing villages; though of secondary consequence;
such as Xenia, in Green county, Greenville in Darke, Troy in Miami,
Urbanna in Champaign, Delaware in Delaware, Williamsburg in
Clermont, New Lancaster in Fairfield, Athens in Athens, Coshocton
in Coshocton, Mount Vernon in Knox, New Philadelphia in Tuskara-
w as, Wooster in Wayne, Canton in Stark, Cadiz in Harrison, Lis-
bon in Columbia, Warren in Trumbull, and Jeflferson in Ashtabula
county.

New towns are annually rising in such numbers, as to render it
extremely difficult to enable topographical description to keep pace
with the progress of improvement.

Productions, — Seasons, — Climate. — We have made these objects a
separate article, from a consideration, that, from its position, the state
of Ohio must afford a picture of nearly the whole valley of the river
from which its name is taken.

The following list contains the most valuable of the timber trees of
Ohio.

Platanus occidentalis, Button wbod,

Juglans nigra, Black walnut,

Juglans cinerea, or calhartica, Butter nut,

Juglans squamosa, Shell bark hickory,

Juglans porcina, Pignut hickory,

Juglans amara, Bitternut hickory,

Quercus tinctoria, Black oak,

Quercus alba, White oak, several 6pecie$,

Quercus prinos acuminata, Chestnut oak,

Quercus prinos monticoia, Mountain oak,

Quercus falcata, Spanish oak,

Quercus rubra, Red oak,

Acer saccharinum, Sugar maple,

Acer rubrum, Red flowering maple,

Acer negundo, Box alder,

Populus deltoide,or angulata, Cotton wood,*

Populus tremula, Aspen,

Pavia lutea, Buckeye,

Laurus sassafras, Sassafras,

Circis canadersis, Red bud,

Prunus virginiana, Wild cherry,

Tilia pubescens, Downy leaved linden,

Tilia americana, Black linden,

* This tree grows upon the Ohio as high as Steubenvillt.

230 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Aanona triloba, Pawpaw,

Robinia pseud-acacia, Black locust,

Gledtchia triacanthos, Honey locust,

Magnolia acuminata, Columbia tree,

Liriodendron tulipifera, Poplar,

Morus rubra, Red berried mulberry,

Pinus abies, Hemlock spruce,

Fagus sylvestris, Beecb,

Fagus castanea, Chestnut,

Carpinus americana, Hornbeam,

Carpinus ostrya, Iron wood,

Betula nigra, Black birch,

Salix migra, Black willow,

Juniperrus virginiana, Red cedar,

Celtis crassifolia, Hackberry,

Diospiros virginiana, Persimon,

Nyssa sylvatica, Black gum,

Fraxinus americana, White ash,

Fraxinus aquatica, Swamp ash,

Fraxinus quadrangularii, Blue ash,

Ulrrtas americana, Slippery elm,

Ulmus rubra, Red elm.

The most dense forests in the state of Ohio are on its south and
southwest borders, near the Ohio river. Perhaps no part of the earth
ever produced more timber, upon an equal space, than does many
places near the margin of the latter river, and upon the banks of most
of its confluent streams near their mouths. It has been observed that
the timber of the valley of Ohio yields more easily to rot, than does
that upon the east side of the Aleghany mountains. The fact is first
doubtful, and if it exists, the difference must be in the same species,
and not in the aggregate body of limber trees. In the states of Louisi-
ana and Mississippi, oak, pine, and hickory, rots sooner than does the
wood of the same genera in the eastern states ; but to counterbalance
this defect in part of the southern trees, the wood of the cypress, black
locust, and catalpa, support the action of air and water equal to the
timber of any trees in North America.

The state of Ohio, in addition to the forest trees, possesses a
very rich shrubbery ; in its forests are found many species of plums,
haws, wild grape vines, whortleberry, spice wood, hazle, alder,
blackberry, raspberry, and dewberry ; with many others. The her-
baceous vegetables are extremely numerous ; many of them are valu-
able as medical plants, some as food, and many afford an orna-
ment to the woods by their flowers. It does not comport with the
design of this treatise to enter into any detail upon the general botany
of any part of the country described. The names and local position
of the timber trees are given, from their indispensable importance in
the most necessary arts, practised by man.

The difference between the climates, east and west of the Ale-
ghany mountains, is a subject upon which has existed a singular
difference of opinion. It is also one that involves an inquiry of the
first importance, as far as agriculture is concerned. The author of
this treatise has long since been led to consider, contrary to common

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 231

received opinion, that upon the same line of latitude more cold was
experienced west than east of the mountains. This deviation from
general belief was not formed from theory, but an induction from his
own experience. Facts have been adduced in various parts of this
work, to show the very low temperature of the winters in the Mis-
sissippi valley, even upon the border of the Gulf of Mexico.

Many causes may be given why an idea, though erroneous, should
be adopted, that the climate of the Mississippi basin was warmer
than the Atlantic slope, but one will perhaps suffice; the stream of
emigration has been southwest. Men from the New England states
when removed into the Ohio valley, actually found themselves in a
more temperate climate than that one from which they had emigrated ;
this circumstance very naturally led them to exaggerate the differ-
ence.

The following notices of the climate and seasons, are in conside-
rable part founded upon the facts adduced in Dr. Drake's Cincinnati,
a work much too little known.

From the floreal calendar given in the above cited work,* we have
taken the liberty to make the following quotation: "these observa-
tions were made on plants growing in the valley of Ohio, and on the
declivity of the adjoining hills, where the developement of vegetation
is four or five days earlier than at a distance of even a few miles north.
In the interior of the Miami country, this difference is so great as to
attract the attention cf all travellers, who in spring or autumn jour-
ney in that direction from Cincinnati. Between the valleys of Mad
river and the Ohio, it is supposed to equal ten or fifteen days. The
causes of the remarkable backwardness in the former situation, ap-
pears to be, in part, its higher latitude, greater elevation, and damper
soil," — and it might have been added, greater exposure to the north
winds.j

It appears, from the same calendar, that peach-trees bloomed at
Cincinnati the first week of April, that on the 12th of May maize
was planted ; June 4th, cherries began to ripen ; July 4th, rye
harvest commenced ; 10th, wheat; 12th, black berries ripe ; August
5th, peaches in market ; September 20th, forest becoming variegated ;
October 25th, maize gathered ; and at the end of the latter month, the
deciduous trees leafless.

If this chain of facts had been collected from the ordinary course
ef the seasons near Pittsburg, the inductions would not be more ap-
plicable to that city, than they are as drawn from a place more than
a degree of latitude farther south.

It is a subject worthy of remark, that vegetables are by far the
most certain thermometer ; and that inductions drawn from the effects
of heat and cold upon tender plants, are the most satisfactory conclu-
sions that can be made upon the phenomena of climate. Nothing
but actual experiment can enable the human mind to form any rea-
sonable opinion of the temperature of any given place. Amongst the
deceptive apparent analogies between two or more given situations,

* Page 88.
i Se« page 25, 27, 31, 167, 172, and sequel of this Treatist.

232 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

none i3 so commonly used, and none so productive cf error as
larity of latitude. The difference often perceived to exist between
the temperature of two places, which to casual observation would
have little or no local distinction, ought to teach caution to writers
and observers on this subject.

It has been seen, when describing the rivers of the state of Chip,
that their streams appear to be precipitated from a high table land.
When delineating west Pennsylvania and west Virginia, the same.
natural features will exhibit themselves. From which it is demon-
strable, that the actual bed of the Ohio is much lower than the table
land from whence the tributary streams of this river draw their wa-
ters. The actual difference in elevation has not been accurately de-
termined. Dr. Drake supposes the extreme elevation of the central
plains of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, to be about 1000 feet above the
level of the water in the Atlantic ; but there is good reason to suppose
that those plains are at least 1200 feet above the level of the ocean. If
Brownsville is 850 feet above tide water in the Chesapeake bay,* the
apex of the adjoining hills being at least 400 feet higher than the
level of the Monongahela at the latter town, must be 1290 or 1300
feet above the level of tide water.

The author of this treatise measured carefully the diffei'nce of
elevation between the level of the Monongahela river, at the city of
Pittsburg, and the surrounding hills, and found the difference about
460 feet. The fall in the river from Brownsville to Pittsburg, must
be 50 or 60 feet. While engaged in measuring the elevation of the
hills near Pittsburg, one fact appeared to obtrude itself at every ope-
ration ; that was, that the apex of these hills, and indeed those of
the whole country, west of the chestnut ridge, were very nearly
equal; and that the whole region had once been table land, into
which the descent of water had, in the lapse of ages, cut the valleys
that now exist. This fact is also proved by the phenomena of cor-
responding strata, particularly of coal. The coal strata near Pitts-
burg maintain very nearly a level with each other, and were evi-
dently once united ; they are 340 feet above low water mark in the
rivers that environ Pittsburg. Not only the coal, but all the other
strata present marks of continuity. The course of the Ohio river
from Pittsburg to the mouth, is gentle ; except the rapids at Louis-
ville, 22 1-2 feet in two miles. The entire length of the Ohio and
Mississippi from Pittsburg to the Gulf of Mexico, is 2040 miles ;
which would yield, by allowing only 5 inches fall per mile, 850 feet
as the elevation of low water mark at Pittsburg, above the level of
the Gulf of Mexico; which sum added to 460 feet, produces 1310
feet as the entire elevation of the summits of the hills on west Penn-
sylvania and west Virginia. An abrupt descent, of more than one-
third the whole depression, produces an immediate change in atmos-
pheric temperature. In the low vale of Ohio, and in such places as
Cincinnati, where plants are presented to a southern, and sheltered
from a northern exposure, inflorescence will take place at very dif-
ferent seasons, and fruits must always be precocious when compared

* Drake's Cincinnati,, page 62.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 233

with vegetation in situations however near, which are exposed to the
chilling effects ot north winds. From these causes arise the local
difference between flowering, "seed time and harvest," at Cincin-
nati, and 40 minutes of latitude to the north of that town, on Mad river.
From the same cause, the entire table land from the northwestern
side ot the Alegbany mountains to the Canadian lakes, being open to
the north and covered from the south winds, must necessarily have a
colder climate than places on corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic
coast.

Assuming vegetable life and the effects of frost upon rivers as the
true criteria upon which to judge of the relative temperature of dif-
ferent places, it will be seen from the data given not only by Dr.
Drake, but all other writers on the subject, that Cincinnati is more
exposed to winter cold than Philadelphia, though the former place
stands upon the ylobe 54' of latitude south of the latter. It has al-
ready been observed in this treatise * that there exists an extraordina-
ry discordance between the facts and inductions of writers on this
subject ; the following extracts will exhibit the correctness of this
assertion.

The

" The piercing northerly winds that prevaiKduring the winter i
the Atlantic states, seldom affect the inhabitants on Cumberland river
Jor they have no great mountains to the northward or westward Thv.
inhabitants of the Atlantic states are also subject to sudden changes in
the atmosphere, arising from their vicinity to the ocean. The air
that comes from the surface of the sea. especially from the warm gulf
stream m winter, must be very different in its temperature from the
air that comes across cold and high mountains ; but the great distance
between the Cumberland settlers and the ocean, as many great moun-
tains intervene, effectually screens them against the bad effects of
those sudden changes. Northeasterly storms never reach this coun-
try."!

The facts stated in this quotation are substantially correct, except
the latter. Northeast storms are violent and frequent, even at Nat-
chez. It certainly must excite some surprise to read in the same
paragraph, that the warm winds from the surface of the gulf stream
should produce cold, and that an exposure to north winds, heat.

Mr. Stoddard, in his historical and descriptive sketches on Louisia-
na,! observes, that, " The settlements in that country, (now Missouri
territory,) are between the 33° and 40° north lat. The winters
among them are much more severe than in the corresponding latitudes
on the sea-coast. They generally set in about the 20th of November
and continue to near the last of February ; though hard frosts, and
even snow, are common in October and March. For three successive
winters commencing in 1802, the Mississippi at St. Louis was passa-
ble on the ice before the twentieth of December each year • and it
was clear of all obstruction, with only one exception, by the last of

* See page 147.

i Morse -s Universal Geography, page 524, sixth edition.

t rage 23o.

234 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

February. In January, 180.5,* the ice in that river rather exceeded
twenty-two inches in thickness. There is seldom mure than six inches
of snow at the same time ; but the severity of the weather at St.
Louis, in latiiucle thirty-eight degrees twenty-four minutes north, is
generally about the same as in the back parts of the state of New
Jersey. The mercury frequently falls below 0 ; and the cold keeps
it depressed as low as ten or fifteen degrees for several weeks during
each winter.

If the cold in these regions in winter is greater than in the same
parallels of latitude on the sea coast, the heat in summer bears a pro-
portionate increase. We cannot estimate the degrees of heat by any
regular thermometrical observations for any number of years. f But
in the summer of 1805, a thermometer was suspended in a large draw-
ing room at St. Louis, against a stone partition wall, and constantly
in a current of air; and from the last of June to the first of August,
the mercury frequently rose to ninety-six degrees, and frequently re-
mained at that point several hours of the day. The heats in this
quarter while ibey continue, are supposed to be more oppressive than
those in the Mississippi territory ; owing, perhaps, to the greater con-
centration of the rays ot* the sun in the deep and spacious valley of
the Mississippi. They continue, however, only about two months in
each year in upper Louisiana ; whereas, they rage with violence for
at least four months at Natchez. "J

Mr. Stoddard expressly gives his opinion in page 235 of his work,
that the heats are greater in the Mississippi vdley than on the Atlan-
tic coast in similar latitudes, and then produces well authenticated
facts, which demonstrate directly the reverse.

Mr.Volney entered the Ohio valley with an opinion of its comparative
greater heat when contrasted with the Atlantic declivity, and without
attempting to hazard a doubt of the correctness of the theory, enters
into the following detail; the more material parts of which we have
translated from the original as nearly literal as possible. We are
the more assured of the indulgence or the reader, to the insertion of
this article, as it is the base of the opinions held upon the climate of
a very interesting portion of our country, by almost all foreigners,
and even by many amongst the citizens of the United States.

" Behold one of those singularities in nature, that deserves the more
attention, as I am uninformed of its having been described until this
time with all its circumstances. For the principal fact 1 will borrow
the words of Mr. Jefferson in his Notes on Virginia."

* The history of the atmospheric changes of the year 1805 in Louisiana, is a
striking commentary upon the routine of the seasons in that country. The au-
thor ot" this treatise was then at Opelousas; and can perfectly remember that
at new year, 1806, that cotton, mullein, and tobacco were all in full bloom.
The same was the case at iN'atchez, at the same time. The author received a
letter from a friend at that place, dated about the 25th December, 1805, where-
in these facts were expressly stated.

About the 10th January, 1806, a very intense frost set in that destroyed every
vegetable liable to destruction from cold ; the ponds and stagnant part of creeks
were frozen ; the latter part of the winter was alternately wet or cold ; the
spring very backward, and the ensuing summer rainy.

t See page 235.

t Stoddard's Louisiana, page 236.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 235

■ Ij i? remarkable, that proceeding on the same parallel of latitude
westwardly, the climate becomes colder in like manner as when you
proceed northwardly. This continues to be the case till you attain
the summit of the Aleghany, which is the highest land between the
ocean and the Mississippi. From thence, descending in the same la-
titude to the Mississippi, the change reverses ; and, if we may be-
lieve travellers, it becomes warmer there than in the same latitude
on the sea side. Their testimony is strengthened by the vegetables
and animals which subsist and multiply there naturally, and do not
on our sea-coast. Thus catalpas grow spontaneously on the Missis-
sippi, as far as the latitude of 37°, and reeds as far as 38°. Parro-
quets even winter on the Sciota, in the 3 yth degree of latitude. In
the summer of 1779, when the thermometer was at 90° at Monticello,
and 96° at Williamsburg, it was I 10 at Kaskaskia.'*

" As a traveller," says Mr. Volney, " I can confirm and develope
the assertion of Mr. Jefferson. In the trajet, that I made in the sum-
mer of 1796, from Washington on the Potomac to Vincennes on
the Wabash, I collected notes from which the principal results are
these.

"July 10th— At Monticello, Mr. Jefferson's seat, wheat-harvest com-
menced on the lower slopes of the southwest mountain, whilst on the
opposite side, where exposed to the northwest, towards Charlottesville,
wheatrbarvest did not commence before the I2lh or 14th of the
month.t

» July 10(h— Harvest at Rockfish gap, on the summit of the blue
ridge, 1 150 English feet high ; two days sooner, harvest commenced
in the valley of Staunton, 130 feet lower.

" July 12th— Harvest on Jackson's mountain, 2200 feet above the
level of the Atlantic ocean.

" July 20th — Harvest on the Aleghany mountain, in places elevated
2600 feet above the ocean.

4k It is seen that in this ascending line, harvest is late in proportion
to the elevation of the various places.

" In descending the western slope of the Aleghany mountains, into
the low plain ot Green Briar, 1 learned that harvest had commenced
on the 15th of July.

" In the valley of the Great Kenbawa, at the mouth of the Elk
Over, I lound harvest began on the 6th July, and on the 1 1th at Ga-
lipohs, a French colony on the Ohio : and at Cincinnati, situated
more to the north, on the 15th of July. J

*Nn-es on Virginia, page 114. v

t The difference giver: her* of 12 or 14 days, in opening of harvest, in so
shortad.,.rm>.. appears ...credibi* ; but if only partially correct, affords a
strong reiutatmn <t the opinions of its aiithor.and a confirmation of tbfl theory
. £"!? m !r ''a^ °'' ,nis treati9e- S,,eJ'tr ar"' exposure seems to have pre-
sented the.r effects to Mr. Volney at his outset, and ought to have led him to
doubt a hypothesis, that would suppose, that in the Ohio valley, (he same
causes that operated so remarkably at MonticeHb would produce reverse effects
at Vin: ennes.

% It would not be credible without his ownti stirnonv. -hat Mr Volney could,
with Ibefacts before him suppose that the climate was comparatively warmer
in th.; Ohio valley thai on the Atlantic declivity. Be ween Monticello and
Cincinnati, there is a difference of latitude of about one degree, and following

23$ EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

" I did not find wheat at Vincennes, on the Wabash ; the inhabi-
tants preferred maize, tobacco, and cotton, productions that mark a
warm climate.*

"The 1st of July the inhabitants of Kaskaskia had commenced their
harvest as at Monticello.

" The second line that I traced from the Aleghany mountains, west-
ward, does not present apparently the same regularity of result as
the preceding line from the sea shore to the summit of the mountains.
The difference, no doubt, proceeds from the diversity of the level,
the exposures, and even of the latitudes, which are more varied in
the latter than in the former.

" If, for example, harvest is later at Cincinnati than at Galipolis,
it must be because the former place is more to the north, less sheltered
from north winds, and less open to the south, than the latter town ; and
if the valley of Kenhawa presents a harvest more precocious, though
more elevated than Galipolis, the difference must arise from the val-
ley of the Kenhawa being enclosed by mountains, the effect of which
is to confine and concentrate the heat, a fact that I perceived myself,
having found the heat here more intense than in the adjacent coun-
try : and in our gardens we have the proof of this combined action
in many respects ; as our espaliers ripen the same species of fruit 8
or 10 days earlier or later, according as they are exposed to the
south, to the rising or setting sun, or still more according as they are
sheltered from cold winds, or struck with the reverberation of warm
air from other walls. It is not less true also, that the level has great
effect in any given line, and that there is a remarkable coincidence
in the time of harvest (July 1st), between Monticello and Kaskaskia,
situated under the same parallel, and on I presume nearly equal
elevation.

"Nevertheless, I am far from denying, (hat there exists in the west,
several phenomena of temperature and of vegetation, that cannot be
explained by either the comparative elevation or exposure.

" In the first rank of these phenomena is the circumstance, that for
some years botanists have observed, and daily experience has con-
firmed, that on comparing places east and west of Aleghany moun-
tains, where trees and plants grow spontaneously, they have discover-
ed that places in the basin of the Ohio and Mississippi were warmer
by a difference three degrees of latitude, than those east ; and
that trees and plants whose organization demands a warm climate,
and shorter and less severe winters, is found three degrees of latitude

Mr. Volney's floral calendar, 15 days in the relative commencement of harvest.
Much uncertainty must rest upon any deductions drawn from the phenomena
of only one year; hut as far as dependence can be placed upon the observa-
tions made by this author, and the fidelity of his relation of facts has neyer
been doubted, Cincinnati must be placed in a climate colder than Monticello
by at least a difference of three degrees of latitude. Dr. Drake gives July 4th,
as the commencement of harvest at Cincinnati, and even that difference, though
it lessens the effect, yet leaves a change much more than equal to the real differ-
ence of latitude.

* Tobacco has been one of the common crops and staple commodities of
Virginia, as far north as the 39th degree of north latitude, ever since the first
settlement of the country. Maize is now cultivated in New-Hampshire.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE." 237

farther to the north, in the west of the Aleghany mountains, than on
the same line of latitude on the Atlantic coast. Cotton that succeeds
at Cincinnati and Vincennes on the 39° N. lat., cannot be cultivated
north of 35 or 30° N. lat. in the Carolinas. It is the same with the
catalpas, the sassafras, pawpaw, and paccan or Illinois nut,* and
many other trees and plants, the detail of which would demand more
knowledge than I possess on the subject.

•' This kind of prool is irresistible ; and it is otherwise supported by
the phenomena of each particular season. In all my routes on the
Ohio, and in my different stations in Kentucky, at Galipolis, at Lime-
stone, Lexington, at Louisville, at Cincinnati, and Vincennes, the in-
formation I have been able to collect has uniformly established the
following facts.

" That winter only commences about its own solstice, (21st — 22<i
December.) and the cold only exhibits its effects in the forty or fifty
follow ing days ; the term is not fixed or uniform in its duration ; it
has also intervals of temperate and even warm days. The ther-
mometer does not descend below 5° or 6° degrees of Reaumer, from
16° to 20° of Fahrenheit, below zero. The frosts which appear and
disappear a few days in October, returns towards the end of Novem-
ber to again disappear. The intense frost, I say, only commences
towards the beginning of January. Brooks, small rivers, arid stag-
nant waters, then freeze ; but rarely remain frozen above from three
to fifteen days.

" The winter of 1796-7 is considered without example, when the
mercury fell in Fahrenheit's thermometer 16° below zero ;| and also
when the Aleghany, Moaongahela, and Ohio rivers were frozen from
the -0th of November to the 30th of January ,| sixty-five days.

* Cotton cannot be cultivated to any advantage in the south part of Kentucky,
in lat. 37° Worth. The catalpa-tree is at this moment growing in open air, in
the streets of Brooklyn, near New-York ; and in the state house yard in Phila-
delphia there are several trees of this species, one of Which is two feet in di-
ameter. The sassafras and pawpaw both grow upon the Delaware, the former
t© the size oi' a considerable tree ; the latter is in all places a shrub.

t The author of this treatise resided at Wheeling, on the Ohio, in 1795—6,
and on the Alonongehela, near Brownsville, 1796 — 67. The latter season was
indeed severe, all the rivers in the country were completely frozen, but far
from being unexampled in the country ; in the beginning of 1792. the Ohio was
frozen at Wheeling upwards of forty days, in such manner that loaded car-
riages passed in perfect safety from Zane's island to the main shore where the
town now stands. The author can perfectly remember having heard the fre-
quent remark, that the quantity of snow which fell in the latter year, was the
greatest known since 1780 until that season.

| The rivers in west Pennsylvania and west Virginia seldom close so early as
the middle of December; but as far south as the Great Kanhawa they are, five
winters in six, completely frozen. The de. iduous trees are denuded of leaven
before the end of October; snow is frequent hi the latter month, but rarely if ever
fails to fall in November. Remarkable exceptions are frequent. Great part of
the month of February, 1799, was so very mild that snow disappeared, and
peach buds began to swell about the 20th of the month: and on the 6th of
March of the same year, the Monongehela was frozen over at Pittsburg, an*
the trees eihibited veey little foliage ormflorcscence on the 20th of May.

238 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

" The Wabash freezes almost annually, bul only from three to four*
teen days. In all Kentucky and the basin of Ohio, frost remains on
the ground, ordinarily, only from three to fifteen days, and in the
course of January there is frequently days that are really warm, and
when Fahrenheit's thermometer rises to iroin 50° to 60°, with south-
west winds and a pure and brilliant sky. Spring brings with it rains
and sudden showers, with northwest and northeast winds. F^rty
days after the vernal equinox, violent heats commence. These heats
are in full force during the sixty or seventy days that follow the sum-
mer solstice ; the thermometer stands at from 26° to 27° of Returner,
(90 — 95 degrees of Fahrenheit.) During the whole of this time,
storms occur almost daily on the country near the Ohio: these storms
produce a heavy heat which is not tempered by the rain. Sometimes
rains are brought by south and southwest winds, at other times they
are produced by the evaporation of the water of the river, and from
the vapours of the vast forest that every where cover the adjacent
country. The rain falling in torrents, refreshes but for a moment the
parched soil, and the heat of next day forcing it to ascend, changes it
in the morning into a thick mist, and finally into clouds, thus continu-
ally renewing the electrical process* of the former day. The tempe-
rature of the water is raised to, from 64° to 66° ; the nights are calm,
and it is not before 8 or 10 in the morning, that a light breeze rises
from the west or southwest, and which ceases about four o'clock in the
afternoon.!

* Mr. Volney, according to his own account, resided in this region only a
very short time, and evidently collected his facts from persons who were very
unfit to give the requisite information, or who must have misunderstood his
views. We recollect hearings gentleman in Washington, Pennsylvania, using
a remark respecting this respectable traveller that we believe to be strictly cor-
rect, because corroborated by others, and which will tend to explain clearly
the cause, why a m-m so able as Volney certainly was to observe natural
phenomena, should detail established errror, rather than develope the ordinary
laws of the climate of places through which he travelled.

This genlleman observed, that though i\lr Volney understood the English
language perfectly well, he spoke it in such a manner that his expressions were
frequently misunderstood; and that his method of collecting information was,
by putting set questions to particular persons, and noting the answers. It wa<- his
misfortune to set out with opinions formed from theory, and of course his ques-
tions naturally tended to establish hose opinions, by eliciting answers in con-
formity to the wishes of the interrogator. It may be observed, however, as singu-
lar, that this traveller evinces mor« accurate knowledge of the geugranby of the
United States, than any European whose works have reached our hands.
There can scarce be a doubt, that if he had passed the Aleghany mountains
into the vUley of Ohio, without ever having read one word upon the country,
thai his indications would have been infinitely more in conformity to his facts,
than they were as published, disfigured by hypothesis.

t From such an account we would be led 10 consider the climate of this re-
gion as at least regular, but from an experience of upwards of twenty y ear*
residence in the country, we would feel inclined to give the seasons any gene-
ral character, rather than t hat of regularity. In fact, from the city of Pittsburg
to the city of New Orleans, inclusive any. or all places, will prescni two suc-
cessive years, whose meteorological changes will differ almost as much as
would those changes in any given year at the local extremes we have men-
tioned. Every pen on, the least capable of preserving the fruits of experience,
must accede to the truth of the foregoing observation.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 239

" In every season the dominant wind is southwest, or the current of
air that descends the channel of the river Ohio, coming from that of
the Mississippi, where the course of this wind is south, from the gulf
of Mexico.* I found this wind warm and stormy, at my entrance in-
to the valley of the Kenhaway, where no doubt it raises the tempera-
ture by arresting the heat at the foot of the mountains : it changes its
direction, following the curves of the Ohio river. This wind is some-
times thought west, or south, but is in reality always the same current
of air, and prevails five-sixths parts of the year, leaving to the other
wind- only one-sixth. It dominates over Kentucky, but does not
there produce the same effects ; because the Ohio \ alley, in a wid'h
of 15 or 18 miles, is moistened by copious rains ; the interior country
is parched with violent drought, that continues sometimes for three
'months together; and the farmers have the vexation to behold from
the summit of the hills which border this vale, a sea of mists and rain
whose skirts touch, but never pass this border.

" At Die autumnal equinox, rain comes with northeast, southeast, and
even northwest winds. The coolness they superinduce is the fore-
runner of frost. Autumn is a reason of mild, serene weather, and
surpasses the three other seasons in pleasantness ; because, in all
North Ameiica, there is no season answering to spring. f

*; Such is the climate ot Kentucky and of all the basins of Ohio.J
We must advance far northward to find any remarkable changes, and
particularly to find a harmony with the Atlantic coast. Even at Nia-

* This observation is in great part correct, and is the only phenomenon that
presents itself in defence of the superior warmth of the air in the basin of Ohio.
This current does, no doubt, contribute to mitigate the cold of winter, and
augment the heat of summer; but its etfectsare more than counterbalanced by
a far greater exposure to the north and northwest aud northeast, than to the
south or southwest.

t What precise idea Mr. Volney attached to spring, it is very difficult to de-
termine. If by spring is meant the vernal season oi renewal of vegetation, per-
haps no country has so protracted a season of spring as the middle states of the
United States " From the first budding of the elms, maples and willows, often
in March to the full developement of the foliage of I he woods towards the end
of May, three months, or one-fourth the year elapses. That the peculiar cha-
racter of an American spring may differ from that of France, we can readily
believe ; but we are also disposed to consider that every season in every dis-
tant country has an appropriate character, that distinguishes it from the same
nominal season in other places. .

+ The radical fault of nearly all accounts hitnerto published of this very
interesting country, is, giving not only a general, but even a uniform cbara ter
to a space^so extensive, aud in its various parts so extremely dissimilar. The
extent and position of the Ohio valley is already given, trom which it v. ill ap-
pear, that the northern and southern extremes must present seasons differing
widely in temperature. A very cursory review of the attending map will serve
to demonstrate the great inequality in the surface of this extensive region. En-
closed by mountains on the east, southeast, and in great part on the south ; en-
tirely open to the north, northwest and west, and cut into deep channels by
its numerous rivers, few countries on earth can exhibit more varied or more
distinctive features. Applying any general epithet to such an expanse must lead
to error. .

The quality of the local surface and soil is also varied to almost infinity.
!No description of land from rugged mountains, whose summits aie upwards of
2000 feet above the level of the""Allantic ocean to the naked plains of Wabache

240 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

gara, it is still so temperate, that cold continues only two months
with any considerable severity ; notwithstanding that this place is
the most elevated part of the Plateau, or. table land. This circum-
stance totally deranges the rule formed from the comparative levels.

" The descriptions that have been made to me of the cold of Ver-
mont, of New-Hampshire, does not correspond with the seasons in
Genesee ;* but rather with that of Philadelphia, 3° farther south.
It has been remarked, as a singular circumstance, that, in the latter
town, frost occurs in every, month of the year, except July ; and that
on the western side of the mountains, a similar circumstance does not
take place south of the village of Oneida in Genesee,! at the 43*
north latitude ; whilst at Albany, east of the mountains, | it freezes
every month in the year, and neither peaches or cherries can ripen.

'; Before proceeding further in this investigation, it will be necessary
to add some observations, and to observe some preparatory to a more
complete deveiopement of the assumed theory.

i* 1. Pi results from the comparison I have presented, that to mea-
sure accurately the degrees of temperature existing in different parts
of the United Slates ; two vast thermometrical scales must be applied
to the whole country, crossing each other at right angles. The one
placed along the meridian line, having its maximum of cold towards
the pole, say on the river St Lawrence, and its maximum of heat to-
wards ibe tropics &ay in Fjorida ; betwesn the two extremes, the
heal increasfs or decreases regularly, according to the latitudes, the
level and exposure being equal. The other scale placed transversely

and tbs rich alluvial bottoms of Ohio river, but what must be passed in a sur-
vey pf tb.£ country under review.

The productions of the earth are not less varied than its surface ; the nume-
rous species of vegetables and minerals that have been provided by nature for
fl :•? use of mad in this unequalled valley, justly claims the attention and admi-
ration of the traveller and geographer. It may be also remarked, that amongst
the mineral products, those most absolutely necessary are most abundant ; salt,
iron, coal, and carbonate of lime. It is also rendered possible that to those
will bo addtid gypsum ; and that the three former exist in much greater quan-
tity than has been generally thought.

* It would be singular, indeed, if the climatft of Genesee was similar ta
that of either Vermont or New-Hampshire. The greatest part of the two
latier places lie north of the former. Genesee is a level country in the vi-
ciniiy of two large lakes ; Vermont and New-Hampshire are mountainous.
Proximity to water fends to equalize the temperature of the circumjacent air;
consequently, (he climate of places near the Canada lakes, are, in every other
circumstance, equal, more moderate in winter than of places more remote.

t Instances have been known to occur of frost at Philadelphia, even in July,
as was the case in that month, 1816; but the author of this note has been wit-
ness to a similar cold at the same season of the year at Washington in Penn-
sylvania, and what will seem perhaps more extraordinary, beheld cotton de-
stroyed by frost at Natchez September, 1804.

t Albany is in part west of all the mountains, and only 1200 feet below the
extreme elevation of the central table land. Except the space occupied by the
North or Hudson river, Albany is covered by two chain? of mountains from the
south winds. Catskill mountains, near 3000 feet high, is in full view from Alba-
ny to the southwest. As to tlie circumstance of cherries and peaches not ri-
pening at Albany, the statement is totally incorrect; few places in the world
wbero those fruits are more abundant than at Hudson, Athens, llbinebeck,
ALBANY, Troy, and Lanelrrgbaig.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 241

to the former, from east to west, following a line of longitude, this
latter compound instrument would be in effect a double thermometer,
of two branches, with a common bulb resting upon the summit of the
Aleghany mountains. Each branch would exhibit its maximum of
heat upon either the coast of the Atlantic ocean, or upon the Mis-
sissippi; and the degrees of heat measured by either branch, would
be in proportion to the elevation or exposure. It is only by strictly
attending to these complicated rules that a good table can be formed
ot the temperature and vegetation of the United States."*

The sketch of a general table of the American climate made by
a society at New-York is ingenious, but to be accurate the above
ruJes alone ought to be adopted.

2. The difference of climate between the east and west of the
Aleghanys, is attended also with two material circumstances, that I
believe have hitherto been overlooked. The first is, that southward
beyond 35 or 36° N. lat., the difference of temperature observable
in the Ohio valley ceases, and that the climate of Georgia and West
Florida, from the Mississippi to the mouth of Savannah river, is sub-
stantially the same : And farther, that the chain of the Aleghany and
its curve about the foregoing latitude, forms the real limit of the dif-
ference.

The second circumstance is, that the relative excess of heat in the
interior, ceases almost instantly between 43° and 45° N. lat, to-
wards the large Canadian lakes. You have scarcely passed the south-
ern shore of Lake Erie, when the climate becomes cold with aston-
ishing rapidity. At Detroit the temperature is similar to that of its
parallel Niagara ; but at Lake St. Clair, the inhabitants find the frosts
much longer and more severe, than at Detroit. The latter small lake

* The above observations are substantially correct, and, in reality, contain tbe
entire philosophy of this subject ; but they also afford another singular instance
how far our author sacrificed his own experience to system.

Adopting his own ingenious thermometer, and applying it in the solution of
the problem we are investigating, the result must inevitably prove directly the
reverse of his hypothesis. Suppose the instrument laid upon the 38th degree
north latitude, and 3 degrees west longitude from Washington city, the bulb
would rest a short distance from Staunton in Virginia, the west branch would
traverse nearly the centre of the Ohio valley.

Four geueral cases determine the difference of temperature between any tw«
given places on our globe.

1°. Difference of latitude.

2?. Difference of elevation.

3°. Exposure to particular winds.

4°. Proximity to, or remoteness from, large bodies of water.

It may be remarked as singular, that Mr. Volney's climatic thermometer
would necessarily exhibit, in opposition to his own previous opinion, that the
valley of Ohio was

1°. Equal in latitude to a very extensive range of the Atlantic coast.

2°. Elevated above that coast ; the bottom of the Ohio 800, and the apes
of the hills 1200 feet above that coast.

3°. Exposed to the northeast, north, northwest, and west winds, and covered
by mountains more than 2000 feet high from the south and southeast.

4. Remote from the warm air of the gulf stream, or the general equalizing
effects of the water of the ocean upon air.

The assertion may be emphatically made, that, without regarding these pri-
mary principles, no rational ideas can be formed on ours,, or any climaie.
31

242 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

is frozen annually, from November to February ; the south and south-
west winds that warm the air in the vicinity of Lake Erie, become
rare at Lake St. Clair. No other fruits can be brought to maturity
except apples and winter pears.

At Michillimakinac, two and a half degrees farther north, 45° 30'
N. lat., observations made in 1797, under the direction of General
Wilkinson,* show, that from August 4th to September 4tb, the ther-
mometer, in several places beyond Lake St. Clair, never was higher
at noon than 70°, and that in the morning and evening it often sunk to
46°; which makes a colder atmosphere than at Montreal in the same
parallel.

Those facts fully accord with the general result published by
Mackenzie, in his relation of his interesting voyages to the west and
northwest of North America. I had the pleasure to be made ac-
quainted with this estimable traveller during my residence in Phila-
delphia, and to receive from him much useful information on the sub-
ject of ray researches. One of his companions, Mr. Shaw, also, had
arrived from a thirteen years' residence in the most remote posts of
the fur trade. This gentleman had also the goodness to reply to my
questions ; and the result of their united information establishes the
following facts :

That in advancing west of Lake Superior to the Stony or Chippe-
wan mountains, as far as 72° N. lat., prevails a climate which in se-
verity can only be compared to that of Siberia. That the surface of
the earth is generally flat and naked of timber, or if any trees do
exist, they are rare and stunted. The country is covered with lakes,
swamps, and a prodigious number of interlocking water-courses, and
incessantly swept by violent and frozen winds, from the north, and,
more particularly, northwest. Above 46° N. lat., the earth is frozen
throughout the year. At several stations of the fur trade, between
50° and 56° N. lat., wells, though very necessary, cannot be sunk ;
that Mr. Shaw himself made the attempt at St. Augustine, six leagues
from the mountains, and though the attempt was made in July, the la-
bourers found the earth thawed thr^e feet ; but below that depth fro-
zen, and becoming more solid in descending, they were constrained
to abandon the undertaking twenty feet beneath the surface.

The correctness of these facts cannot be doubted from the respect-
ability of the witnesses, and from the credible support received
from other testimony. Robson, an English engineer, who, in 1745,
built Fort Wales on Hudson's Bay, 59° N. lat., recounts, with surprise
and candour, that wishing to sink a well in the month of September,
he found the ground thawed three feet, by the recent heat of sum-
mer; but under that superstratum of earth, lay another of eight
inches deep, frozen as firm as a rock. Then commenced a stratum
of dry loose frozen sand, in which the workmen could find no water,
because the moisture near the surface was rendered solid ice, and
prevented the water from penetrating below the superficial bed of
earth thawed by the recent summer heat.

Edward Umfreville, an agent of the Hudson Bay Company, frccc

" Medical Repository of New- York, Vol; I. page 680.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 243

1771 until 1782, a sensible and correct observer, attests, that the
earth in these regions even in the heat of summer, when the heats
are for a term of four or five weeks very intense, does not become
thawed more than four English feet in depth, where the land is clear-
ed of timber, and not more than two where the surface is shaded by
dwarf juniper and pine trees, the only timber in the country.

It is from all these facts made evident, that beyond a certain lati-
tude, the climate of the interior of North America is not less cold
than on parallel latitudes upon the Atlantic coast. The mean term of
the change is about 45° or 4G° N. lat., assuming, as a natural limit, the
Canadian lakes, but more particularly the Algonquin mountains, con-
fining the warm climate of the west to nine or ten degrees of latitude,
and also encircled on three sides by other mountains. No doubt but
that the presence of these mountains contribute in part to produce the
difference found to exist between the climates north and south of
their summits : But what is the primary cause? From whence pro-
ceeds this really singular geographical phenomenon ? Behold the
problem solved ! a comparison of many facts and circumstances, have
led me to consider as the principal agent, a generally prevailing cur-
rent of air in the basin of the Mississippi ; which current differs from
those of the coast of the Atlantic ocean. I think myself able to fur-
nish to my readers the means of forming their judgment, by develop-
ing the entire system of the various currents of air annually prevail-
ing in the United States.

Mr. Volney then enters into an investigation of the courses, and
causes of the winds of the United States, commenced with the ex-
pression, " that in Europe, particularly in France and England, the
inhabitants complain of the inconstancy of the winds, and of the sud-
den and violent changes produced in the atmosphere through their
influence ; but that the variations in the air in Europe, were nothing
when compared with those in the United States."

Data have never yet been collected to establish the degree of cor-
rect comparison between the climate of western Europe and that of
any part of America. An observation is in the mouth of nearly all
men who speak on the subject, coinciding with Mr. Volney, that the
inconstancy and contrasts of atmospheric air are much greater in
America than in Europe ; but a perusal of several articles in Ro-
zier's Agricultural Dictionary, would serve to render this assertion
at least doubtful.* That the difference has been exaggerated, to at
least ten times its quantum, we have no doubt. A real difference in
climate does exist, between western Europe and eastern America, of
about ten degrees of latitude ; but the corresponding climates exhibit
very nearly similar phenomena. The south of France and the
southern parts of the United States possess a remarkable coincidence
in the aspect of their respective local positions, as also in the general
character and daily temperature and change of their climates- 1

Disquisitions on the winds of any country are an idle speculation, if
not founded upon a very detailed knowledge of the ranges of moun-

* See page 30 of this Treatise.

t See page 167 of this Treatise, note.

<2U EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

tains, and their compactness and elevation ; with the courses of
rivers ; the width and depth of their particular valleys ; and with the
uniformity or asperity of the surface of the various basins.

It cannot be deemed presumption to assert, that this particular to-
pographical knowledge has not been evinced by any European writer
upon the United States. Most of them were men whose minds were
rendered unfit, by national prejudice, to enter into a physical investi-
gation ; others came to abuse ; one or two to praise ; and few indeed
have resided long enough in the country to form opinions of the peo-
ple or climate from long observation, or comparison of well arranged
facts.

The following sketch of the outline of the Ohio basin, will enable
the reader to perceive the true causes, why in reality its climate is
necessarily more severely cold in winter, and also, why in some in-
stances in summer, the condensed heat is greater than in most places
on the coast of the Atlantic ocean.

The extent and interior structure of the two basins of Ohio and
Illinois have been descanted on ;* it remains to delineate their out-
line, and to show, from their exterior, the causes that produce the pe-
culiar constitution of climate in this singular region.

The Aleghany mountains ranging from N. E. to S. W. skirts along
the S. E. part of the Ohio valley. Though not actually the bounda-
ry of the basin,f and not very elevated, this chain forms a very effec-
tive barrier against the warm winds of the Gulf Stream. The Ale-
ghany mountains are remarkable for their compactness, running in
collateral ridges; there exists from the 42° to the 34° N. lat., no abso-
lute interval. Where one ridge is cut by a river, the opposite one is
a solid wall, and all are covered with a dense forest to the summit.
This character becomes more distinctive, advancing southwest, and is
must prominent where the influence of such a mass of rocks and
woods would produce the greatest effect ; that is between 34° and 36°
N. lat. At 34° N. lat. may be considered the nucleus of the whole
mass of mountains. About 34° N. lat. the Aleghany turns almost
abruptly to the west, and imperceptibly declining in elevation, finally
disappears at 14° W. longitude from Washington city. Cumberland
mountain is the same chain that first appears near Angelica in the
state of New-York, and which traverses Pennsylvania by the name of
Chestnut ridge. In Virginia, this chain is known by various appel-
lations ; to the south of the Great Kenhawa, it assumes the name of
Cumberland, by which term it is known on the southwest part of
Virginia, and southeast of Kentucky. On entering Tennessee be-
tween Cumberland and Clinch rivers, Cumberland mountain first
turns S. W. by W., and about fifty miles within the state, assumes a
western range, very nearly along the 36° N. lat. Though, perhaps,
not more than 700 or 800 feet elevated above the table land of the
Ohio valley, this minor chain does not terminate until reaching west
of Tennessee river, upon the border of the Mississippi ailuvion.

That part of the Aleghany mountain which rises south of Tennes-
see river, continues west-northwest from the northwest part of

* See page 187. f Page 188.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 245

Georgia, through Alabama territory and the state of Mississippi, until
within thirty or forty miles of the Mississippi river, it terminates in
high broken ridges. West of the latter river, at 36° 30' N. lat., a
ridge of bills reaches its bank near Cape Girardeau, by an immense
precipice of limestone, upwards of 400 feet high ; between which
and the western extremity of Cumberland mountain, is an interval of
about 80 miles. Very nearly a similar distance intervenes between
the western termination of the Aleghany, and the eastern elongation
of the Masserne mountains, south of Arkansaw river.

Both the Masserne mountains and the chain of hills which reaches
Mississippi near Cape Girardeau, are continuous ridges emanating
from the spurs of the Chippewan.

Avery striking feature distinguishes, not only the hills and moun-
tains east of the Mississippi from those of the west, but affords a strong
contrast between the entire physiognomy of the two regions ; that is,
the dense and unbroken forest that clothes the former, and the
open naked prairies that compose the far greater part of the surface
of the latter. This difference accounts satisfactorily for the remarka-
ble change of climate between the border of the gulf of Mexico conti-
guous to Mobile bay, and that found west of the Mississippi river.

Mr. Volney states, that south of 35° and north of 45° N. latitude,
the climate of North America equalizes from the Atlantic ocean to
the Chippewan mountains. How far this position is correct in the
north section, we cannot judge from personal knowledge; but upon
the south section actual experience enables us to pronounce it incor-
rect ; and we have shown why such an uniformity cannot exist.

A review of the attendant map will exhibit the real width of the
proper valley of the Mississippi below the mouth of Ohio ; and the
very confined range of the south winds from the gulf of Mexico into
the basin of Ohio.

Mr. Volney has given a map of North America, upon -jahich are
marked the course* of the winds from the tropics over the gulf of
Mexico, and their final distribution over the continent. Such an ar-
tificial theory of American winds, must excite some wonder in the
mind of any person who has resided a number of years upon the north
border of the Mexican gulf, where the effects ought to be most in
unison with the hypothesis, and in harmony with each other. The
late Mr. William Dunbar, who resided upwards of thirty years near
Natchez, and who observed the phenomena of the atmospheric
changes in the country with skill and attention, gives, in substance,
the following as the routine of the seasons.

Mr. Dunbar, after recounting the phenomena of the great sleet and
mow storm, at Natchez, in the end of January and first of February,
1 800 ,f and other meteorological changes of that year, expressly
•tates, that on the 12th of December the thermometer was down
at 12°.

The remarks of this gentleman, on the winds and weather of that
country, deserve to be better known than they are ; we shall there-
fore transcribe them entire.

" See pages 31, 83, 139. \ See paee T3 of this Treatise

246 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

" It is with us a general remark, that of late years the summers
have become hotter, and the winters colder, than formerly. Orange
trees* and other tender exotics, have suffered more in the neighbour-
hood of New Orleans, within these four or five years, than before that
period; the sugar-cane, also, has been so much injured by the seve-
rity of the first of the two last winters, as greatly to discourage the
planters, whose crops in many instances have fallen to one-third, or
less, of their expectations. In former years I have observed the mer-
cury of the thermometer not to fall lower than 26° or 27° ; but for a
few years past it has, generally once or twice in the winter, fallen as
low as from 17 to 20 deg., and on the 12th December, 1800, as above
noticed, it was found sunk to 12 deg.,* which has hitherto no parallel
in this climate; indicating a degree of cold which in any country
would be considered considerable, and probably may never be again
produced by natural means in lat. 31|0.f

" As this apparent alteration of climate has been remarked only for
a few years, and cannot be traced up to any visible, natural, or arti-
ficial change of sufficient magnitude, it would be in vain to search for
its physical cause. Dr. Williamson, and others, have endeavoured
to show, that the clearing, draining, and cultivation extended over
the face of a continent, must produce the double effect of the relaxa-
tion of the rigours of winter, and an abatement of the heats of sum-
mer ; the former is probably more evident than the latter ; but ad-
mitting the demonstration to be conclusive, I would inquire whether
a partial clearing, extending thirty or forty miles square, may not be
expected to produce a contrary effect, by admitting, with full liberty,
the sunbeams upon the discovered surface of the earth in summer,
and promoting, during winter, a free circulation of cold northern air.J

" The winds of this country are extremely variable in the winter
season, seldom blowing above three days, successively, from the
same point. The north-west wind brings us the severest cold. It may
be considered a general rule, during winter, that all winds blowing
from the east of the meridian bring rain, arid those from the west,
dry weather ; the east and southeast winds are most abundantly
charged with moisture, as the opposite points are always the driest ;
the northeast winds, during their season, are moist, chilly, and disa-
greeable ; but seldom prevail for any length of time ; the northwest
wind brings (though rarely) sleet or snow.§ After two, three, or

""• * The author of this treatise resided from the month of Sept. 1799, and all
the year 1800, on Pine Ridge, eight miles north of Natchez, and was witness to
the "severe sleet storm of January and February, and the intense cold of De-
cember, 1800. During the sleet storm the wind was from northeast.

f As far as its effects were exerted upon vegetables, and upon stagnant
waters, the frost of February, 1807, and that of December, 1814, must have
b«en, each, at leas) as severe, if not more intense, than that of December, 1800.

| The boundless (excepting the respective seas) expanse of prairie in Louisi-
ana affords a complete support to the conjecture of Mr. Dunbar; and this naked
surface, extending northwest of the Ohio and Mobile basins, exposes those
pluces to the severe cold annually experienced in lat. 30.

§ The sleet storm of 1800, came with a northeast wind, as has been noted ;.
that of 1807, with a northwest wind.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 24?

four days of damp, cloudy, or rainy weather, it suddenly clears up
with a cold northwest wind, which blows frequently with great force
during the first, and sometimes part of the second day after the change,
the nights being generally calm ; after a like period of fair weather,
of which the two first days are clear and freezing, and the other two
"fine, mild, and agreeable, with a morning's heavy frost, it revolves
again into the same circle of damp and rainy weather. This may
be considered as the general revolution of the winter season, but with
many exceptions. The frequent and rapid changes in the state of
the weather during the winter, in this climate, furnish an excellent
opportunity of verifying the vulgar opinion, of the moon's pretended
influence at her conjunctions, oppositions, and quadratures ; but truth
compels me to say (what probably may be said of many similar per-
suasions*) that after a continued and scrupulous attention to this ob-
ject, I have not discovered any such regularity of coincidence, which
might justify the reverence with which those traditional maxims are
at this day received, by all those whose minds are not expanded
by the lights of philosophy.

" With the month of February our spring season may be said to
commence, and southerly winds prevail, as if propitious nature was
inclined to facilitate the operations of the husbandman, by carrying
off the superabundant moisture, with which the surface of the earth is
drenched, after the winter rains. This salutary effect is much more
apparent on the flat lands of lower Louisiana than with us.

" As the spring and summer advances, the winds blow chiefly from
between southeast and southwest, with variations from all parts of
the compass. During the hot season the winds are frequently re-
marked to follow the progress of the sun ; being found at northeast
or east in the morning, and shifting round, die away in the evening
at south-southwest.

" Before the close of November, we are reminded of the approach
of winter by a few cold mornings and evenings, and sometimes nip-
ping frosts, which exhibit their destructive power, first, in the valleys,
by killing tender plants, while those on the adjoining hills retain,
some time longer, their bloom and verdure. This effect is to be ac-
counted for by the greater specific gravity of the condensed air, which
runs off at all sides from elevated situations into the nearest valleys,
there forming a mass of great extent, while the hills are supplied with
air less dense and warmer, from a superior stratum of the atmosphere.
The influence of this cause is so great, at the first approaches of win-
ter, that a difference of 10° of Fahrenheit's scale, has been noted at
the short interval of three miles in the direction of east and west : one
position overlooking the great valley of the Mississippi, thirty miles
wide, while the other was in the interior, environed. by forests. On
the morning of the 13th November, 1799, the thermometer stood, in
the first situation, at 42°, and in the latter at 32°4"

* Superior temperature of the Ohio basin, for instance.

t Transactions of the American Philosophic*! SocietVj vol. yj. page 43; an*
Sequel.

248 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

As far as a residence of sixteen winters, in the Mississippi territory
and lower Louisiana, can enable the author of this treatise to judge,
Mr. Dunbar's observations are accurate, and, if adopted as criteria,
must confirm what has been already stated, that the winds of the Mis-
sissippi valley are too variable to produce a general amelioration of
climate, so far north as the basin of Ohio. Mr. Dunbar also records
the fact, that the northwest winds exert their influence as far as
Natchez.

Respecting the destruction of vegetables by frost, the cause assign-
ed by Mr. Dunbar produces the greatest part of the effect; but there
is another cause that must be very influential in such countries as that
near Natchez ; where the extremes of sterility and fertility often ap-
proach within a few yards. In the rich low grounds the juices of
vegetables, particularly cotton, are so abundant as to aid the decom-
posing powers of frost.

The fact mentioned by this respectable author, of the difference of
temperature between the sheltered high lands, and the exposed low-
lands, renders the correctness of the idea at least doubtful, that clear-
ing lands tend to ameliorate climate. Mr. Dunbar has entered his
own veto against this conclusion; and- well he might,-as every pheno-
mena in the country where his observations were made, was in oppo-
sition to i4s adoption. And no country can be more completely suita-
ble for satisfactory experiment on this very interesting subject.

This picture of the variations in the air, to which we have been
for many years familiar, is in all its parts correct, and proves the in-
fluence of the northwest winds in places far south of the basin oi
Ohio. The farther west the traveller advances from the Mississippi
river, the more southern will he find this northern influence. The
vast prairies of North America reach from the gulf of Mexico to the
Frozen ocean, a distance of forty degrees of latitude, and following
the obliquity of their course, near three thousand miles. Part of
this great grassy expanse is protruded into the Ohio basin, and
reaches to the south side of lake Erie. Rising from the surface of
the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and from that of the Canadian lakes,
the country rises to the northwest into high tableland, over which the
winds have an uncontrolled motion, carrying with them to the foot of
the Aleghany mountains, the refrigerating particles collected from
the dreary plains so emphatically described by Mr. Mackenzie and
others. It is by the power of this frozen current that the Mississippi
is so often frozen at St. Louis in December, and which render the
Ohio river unnavigable two months of each year, almost to the
mouth. We are led to believe, that advancing west from the Ale-
ghany mountains, the intensity of the cold increases, and that the sea-
sons are at St. Louis more rigorous than at Cincinnati, though the former
lies 30 minutes of latitude south of the latter. The peculiar local po-
sition of Cincinnati afford a double advantage, sheltered from the
north, and exposed to the south ; the position of St. Louis is directly
the reverse, but the frequent freezing of so rapid a river as the Mis-
sissippi, and at such an early season of the year, evinces a general
intensity of cold over the adjacent country.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 249

From the most authentic documents it appears, that the northwest
wind prevails in December, January, and February* The reason of
this aerial tide is obvious. On the approach of winter, those eternally
frozen regions beyond 46° N. lat., where icy winds range over the
naked desert, and from above 50°, where the frost-bound earth for-
bids the existence of wells or spring?, comes a volume of condensed,
and almost congealed air, which locks the rivers in fetters of ice,
cft< i) as far south as 35° north latitude. Warm weather, in the autum-
nal months, is constantly followed in a short time by a cold north-
west or north wind.

This flood of cold air in its motion to the southeast, its usual course,
flows down the valleys of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, sweeps
over die Ohio, and first meets an impediment to its moiion when com-
ing in contact with the Alegli3ny mountains. Its progress is here
arrested by two causes ; first the mount* ins themselves, and secondly,
the mass of cold and dense air upon these mountains. The north-
west wind thus interrupted in its direct course, turned by its own
gravity to the south, rushes down the Mississippi valley, and otten car-
ries frost sufficient to destroy the orange trees on the gulf of Mexico, and
to freeze the ponds and other small bodies of stagnant water near the
city of New Orleans. Allowing to this great current, a motion of
thirty miles per hour, it would cross the continent, from the Frozen
ocean to the gulf of Mexico, in about four days. Having fewer ob-
stacles westward than eastward of the Mississippi to impede its ad-
vance, this mass of cold air has protruded the limit of snow farther
south in the former, than in the latter section of our continent ; the
same observation might be made respecting frost, but as the northern
border of the gulf of Mexico is every where subject to frost, it admits
of no interior limit.

The quantity of water that falls upon the earth, in the form of rain,
dew, hail, and snow, differs extremely in places situated apparently
similar. Not only the existence but the quantity of snow has been
connected with the degree of cold, experienced at any given place.
The existence of snow must of necessity depend upon a thermometri-
cal depression below that necessary to permit a frost sufficiently vio-
lent to freeze water into ice, or prevent its melting ; but there is no
apparent connexion between the intensity of cold and the quantity
of snow. Extremely severe frost often occurs without, or with very
little snow ; therefore, no fair data is afforded as respects the tempera-
ture of any given place by an accurate register of its snows, unless
that register contains a correct record of the absolute depth of water
that falls in all forms. Rain and snow are mere relative term?.

Whether more or less moisture actually falls west than east of the
Aleghany mountains, has never been determined with sufficient cer-
tainty to admit a safe conclusion. Judging from analogy, we should
suppose that in the interior less moisture does fall than on the Atlan-
tic declivity, on an equal surface ; but that, of the respective propor-
tions of snow to rain, we are fully persuaded more of the former me-
teor falls on the western, than does on the eastern section of our

" Drake's Cincinnati, page 99.
32

250 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

country. In general, snow falls sooner, and remains longer on the
ground in the basin of Ohio, than on the Atlantic declivity. Some
particular spots in the deep valleys of Ohio, and some other streams,
are exceptions to this rule, but their area is very limited, when com-
pared with the entire extent of the basin.

The following summary contains the leading facts from which the
foregoing conclusions are drawn, with authorities referred to in the
margin*.

In 1796, Mississippi and Ohio, (with their confluents) frozen, to
their junction.*

In the same year, in December, mercury, at Cincinnati, three
mornings in succession, down at 14°, 12°, and 1°. below O.f

The Mississippi passable on the ice with horses and carriages be-
fore the 20th December, 1802-3-4 .|

Rivers are influenced greatly in their congelation by their courses,
and the climates from whence their waters are drawn. This may in
some measure account for the early freezing of the Mississippi ; but
the following is an instance of the congelation of that stream, that
could only arise from an excessive frost at the place.

In the winter of 1808-9, the Mississippi at Genevieve frozen solid
in one night, so as to bear horses and carriages next day.§

The extreme difference in the periods of inflorescence and foliage
of plants, found to exist in a short distance ||

Rye harvest commenced 6th of July, on the Great Kenhawa at the
mouih of Elk. IT

Wheat harvest at Monticello and Kaskaskia, began on the same
day, July 1st.

Rye harvest began at Cincinnati on the 4th, and that of wheat on
the 10th July **

Woods leafless, October 26lh.tt

January 8th, 17SH7, mercury fell at Cincinnati, 18° below zero.jj

Deep and durable snows upon the Ohio table land from 40° to 42"
north latitudf.§§

In addition to these facts, the reader is referred to the description of
the physical construction of the Ohio and Mississippi basins, and the
adjacent regions.

Respecting the relative heat of the interior and maritime parts of
this continent, few words are sufficient. Upon the latter, a sea
breeze has a tendency to mitigate the violence of summer heat, an
advantage that it but little enjoyed in the former. Environed on two
sides by mountains, and cut into deep valleys, where the heat can ac-
cumulate and reverberate, it often becomes oppressive, and continues
so, many days in succession. In the year 1793, near three months
passed away without rain, August, September, and October. Long

* Aullior of this treatise. — Dr. Drake, page 97.

t Drake's Cincinnati) page 1 19. J Stoddard's Louisiana, page 236.

§ William Rector, Esq. as quoted in Drake's Cincinnati, page 121, note.

II lb. page 88. H Volney, Paris edition, page 157 ; ib. page 156 and 157.

** Dra ke's Cincinnati, page 89. tUb. page 90.

$t Winlhrop Sargeant, Esq. as quoted by Dr. Drake, page 94.

}} Drake, page 106.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 251

droughts are frequent, as indeed are incessant rains. The various
reasons differ extremely from each other: 1794, was as remarkable
for reiterated rains, as the preceding year was lor its dryness. The
months of September, October, November, and December, of the year
1794, was a period of almost continued rain.

Some persons of observation have contended that as the countries
in the interior becomes cleared of timber, that the climate will be-
come more uniform. Such an anticipation is not warranted by the
phenomena observable in places already and for ages denuded of tim-
ber. In no region of the world can the seasons be more uncertain
than in the prairies of Louisiana from one extremity to another. No
changes, particularly from heat to cold, is more sudden or more vio-
lent, or where the quantity of rains, or the period of their occurrence
differs more in two successive years.

The presence of some peculiar vegetables have been adduced as
marks of climate ; it has been shown how uncertain are all data
drawn from suck a source. The presence or absence of animals are
still less satisfactory.

We have dwelt upon this subject the more from a conviction how
much it had hitherto been misunderstood.

As respects the influence of the seasons of the Ohio basin upon emi-
grants, we refer to flft general observations made upon the same subject,
when speaking of the regions near the mouth of the Mississippi and
Mobile rivers. Though essential difference does exist between the
two regions in the quantum and distribution of heat and cold, yet very
nearly similar precaution and choice of season for removal ought to
be taken for every place west of the Aleghany mountains, at least
south of Muskingum.

The greatest inconvenience attending this vast country is the ex-
treme difference between the maximum of heat and cold -t it is an in-
convenience that may be prudently obviated in a great measure.
This subject will however come more appropriately into the last
chapter of this treatise, to which the reader is referred.

So much analogy prevails in the general productions and staples of
Indiana and Ohio, that little could be added respecting those objects
afforded by the latter, that has not been noticed under the head of
the former. For some additional articles respecting Indiana and
Ohio, see appendix.

WEST PENNSYLVANIA, AND WEST VIRGINIA.

Under this general name is here meant that part of these two states
lying in the Ohio basin. In common language, all the region west of
the Aleghany mountains inclusive, has received the term of the
" Western Country," relative to the Atlantic declivity. It is certain-
ly incorrect to include under such an appellation, considerable extent
watered by rivers that flow into the Atlantic ocean.

The tract in question reaches from the north border of the state of
Tennessee, to the south border of the state of New- York, 460 miles
in length ; its medial width nearly 90, but in some places exceeding
100 miles. The area of this region amounts to 43,268 square

.252 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

miles ; 16,500 in Pennsylvania, and 26.7(38 in Virginia.* We have
included the entire superficies under one head, though forming part of
two states. The natural connexion being so strong as to render a de-
scription of the products of one part nearly correct when applied to
the other.

Natural Geography — Minerals. — It has been shown that the Ale-
ghany mountains do not serve to separate the waters that flow into
the basin, from those that pursue their course towards the Atlantic
ocean ; and what is perhaps more remarkable, is, that the natural
formations pursue a line of separation different from both the rivers
and mountains.

The mountains of West Pennsylvania, are Laurel Hill, and Chest-
nut ridije ; those of West Virginia are, the Blue ridge, Aleghany
mountains, and Cumberland mountain.

Of these collateral chains, the Aleghany is the principal, and in
some measure the spine of the whole system to which it belongs.
This mountain is not however a continuous ridge, being cut by seve-
ral rivers, and bearing local names between the various streams.
This circumstance has introduced considerable confusion between the
various maps that have been published of this part of the United
States.

The Aleghany ridge enters the south boundary of Virginia, be-
tween the sources of the Great Kenhawa and Tennessee rivers,
ranges N. E. towards Evansl^am, where it is interrupted by the valley
of the Great Kenhawa. In Montgomery it again re-appears and con-
tinues north, the southwest corner of Maryland, where it is again
broken by the Potomac. From the Kenhawa to the Potomac, the
Aleghany is the demarcation between the waters of the Ohio and
those of the Atlantic.

In the state of Maryland, this mountain separates the sources of
the Potomac and Youghiogheny, and then entering Pennsylvania, is,
at about 40° 15' N. lat., again cut by the Susquehanah. Beyond the
latter stream, advancing north, this chain becomes more broken, less
identified, and gradually depresses into table land near Utica, in the
state of New- York ; it is, however, no doubt, the same continuous
ridge that forms the mountains west of Lake George and Lake Cham-
plain, and is ultimately lost in Canada, between the St. Lawrence and
Kichlieu rivers.

Cumberland Mountain, by the various local names of Laurel hill,
Chestnut ridge, and Cumberland mountain, properly so called. This
ridge leaves the north boundary of Tennessee between the sources of
Cumberland and Clinch rivers; than in a northeast by east direction
of one hundred miles, forms the limit between the states of Virginia
and Kentucky, unto the head of Big Sandy, where the mountain en-
ters Virginia, and turns to nearly northeast, which course it main-
tains through the residue of Virginia and entirely across Pennsylvania,
finally disappears near Angelica in the state of New-York.

Beside these two chains of mountains, the region in review pos-

* See table page 187, in which it ought to be noted, is omitted to be included
a small tract of 520 square miles in Maryland.

'EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 253

sesses a very distinctive ransje of hills, which though less elevated
than the mountains, forms a very prominent feature in the geography
of the country. This range of hills branches from Cumberland
mountain, at the head of tha Elk branch of Great Kenhawa, and the
sources of the Monongahela, and pursuing a course very nearly
north between the waters of the latter stream and those of Ohio, enters
Pennsylvania, and passing by Waynesborough and Washington, is
cut through by the Ohio five miles below Pittsburg. Beyond the
latter river, the ridge continues north between the waters of the Ale-
ghany and Big Beaver rivers, is only terminated by the southeast side
of Lake Erie.

The peculiar conformation of this region accounts for the curious
manner in which its rivers flow ; the principal of which are, Ohio,
Big Beaver, Aleghany, Monongahela, Youghiogheny, Cheat, Tiger
Valley, Great Kenhawa, Little Kenhawa, Big Sandy, Clinch, and
Tennessee.

The Ohio is formed at the city of Pittsburg by the confluence of
the Aleghany and Monongahela rivers. The stream is about 1000
yards wide at its commencement, with a gentle current. The Ohio
first flows northwest, thirty miles, to the mouth of Big Beaver, where
it wests ten or twelve miles ; passes the line of demarkation between
Pennsylvania and ihe state of Ohio, in a short distance within the lat-
ter state, and assumes nearly a south course, which it preserves to the
mouth of Fishing creek, which falls in from Virginia. Below Fishing
creek, the Ohio turns southwest, and flows in that direction to the
mouth of Big Sandy, where it leaves the state of Virginia.

The beauty and variety of the banks of this noble river has been
noticed. The scenery is more bold in Pennsylvania, and opposite
to the north elongation of Virginia than farther down in Kentucky and
the state of Ohio. One bank above Fishing creek is generally bold,
sometimes precipitous ; the opposite always an extremely rich, allu-
vial bottom.

Cultivation of the soil, and other improvements, have advanced, and
are advancing with a rapidity that can scarce claim credit. Under
a review of the towns, this progressive state of society will be noticed
in detail.

Big Beaver rises partly in Pennsylvania, and partly in the state of
Ohio ; is a short but important river. It is interrupted by falls seven
miles above its mouth ; above the falls this stream is navigable 50
or 60 miles into both states, out of which it draws its waters.

The falls afford a fine seat for machinery, which has been much
, improved. Some saw mills, grist mills, a furnace, forge, oil mill,
fulling mill, wool and cotton carding machines, have been erected.*
This place admits of indefinite improvement. The mass of water is
such, and height of the falls, as to permit the erection of any supposed
number of machines with any power that could be demanded.

Aleghany river. This is a very important stream, and may, at no
distant day, form one of the principal links between the countries

* Ohio and Mississippi Navigator; page 73.

554 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

east and west of the Aleghany -mountains; its physical position cau-
not be examined with too much care.

This river rises in Potter county in Pennsylvania, and flowing
northwest, by the bends of the stream about fifty miles, then enters
the state of New- York ; a few miles within which, at the junction of
Olean creek, stands the flourishing village of Hamilton. Below
Hamilton, the river flows some distance west, inclines again north-
west, receives several large branches from the state of New- York,
gradually assumes a southwest course, again enters Pennsylvania, and
continuing that direction to the town of Warren, there receives from
the northwest Chatauque river.

This stream issues from Chatauque lake, the extreme head waters
of which rise within 8 or 10 miles of Lake Erie. To the northeast
of Chatauque lake lies Buffalo swamp, a large morass of fifteen or
twenty miles in length, and three or four wide, out of the south ex-
tremity of which a large creek issues, and falls into Chatauque creek
below the lake.

After receiving Chatauqtie river, the Aleghany continues south-
west to the mouth of French creek. The latter rises in the south-
west angle of the state of New- York, flows southwest to Meadville '
sixty miles, winds to the southeast, and pursuing that course about
forty miles, falls into the Aleghany at Franklin. The united streams
continue nearly southeast to Kitaning, then southwest to the city of
Pittsburg.

Below Franklin, no branch of any consequence joins the Aleghany
river from the right bank, but several unite with it from the left, which
serve to augment its volume of water, and add to its navigable use-
fulness.

Toby's creek rises in M'Kean, flows southwest by west through
Jefferson, joins the Aleghany river in Venango county ; its entire
length exceeding one hundred miles.

Sandy Lick creek, and two or three others, fall into Aleghany river
between Toby's creek and the Kiskiminitas river. This latter stream
rises east of the Chestnut ridge, through which it passes in its course
to the westward- The extreme southern source of the Kiskiminitas
is the Conemaugh river, rising near the town of Somerset, in the val-
ley between the Aleghany mountain and Chestnut ridge ; the stream
flows along the valley to the northwest, thirty miles, receives a large
accession of water by a creek from the opposite direction. The
united streams turn suddenly west, and pierce the Chestnut ridge,
forming an enormous passage, visible from the apex of the Aleghany
mountain 30 or 40 miles distant. This affords one of the finest and
most extensive prospects in America. On the road from Bedford to
Pittsburg, by Youngstown, the Aleghany mountain is passed oblique-
ly ; from the summit of which the beautiful valley of Somerset lies
expanded as an immense picture, with the long softened line of Chest-
nut ridge on the back ground ; and to close the delightful landscape,
the immense gap formed by the Conemaugh, seems to invite the tra-
veller to the still more fertile regions beyond the limit of his view.

The sources of the Conemaugh, and those of the Juniati approach
within a short distance of each other. The Aleghany mountain in-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 25 5

tervening, the possibility of an artificial communication is doubted.
There are no falls of any particular consequence in the Kiskiminitas,
and without considerable expense, this stream might be rendered navi-
gable above (he Chestnut ridge. Salt water has been discovered of ex-
cellent quality ; coal, in immense bodies, and iron ore abound upon
different branches of the Kiskiminitas, and Conemaugh proper.

Two canals have been projected to unite the waters of Lake Erie
with those of the Aleghany river. The first by French creek to Wa-
terford or Erie; the second by Chatauque lake. It. is confidently
asserted that no serious impediment exists to prevent the completion
of either of the foregoing channels of communicalion.

An object, however, of direct, and certainly practicable utility, is
the opening of a direct road from Newhurgh, or Kingston, in the state
of New-York, to Hamilton, on the Aleghany. This route would no
doubt be of infinite utility to the emigrants from all the New-Eng-
Jand states, by saving them from a painful, circuitous, and expensive
journey through New Jersey and Pennsylvania to Pittsburg, In the
list of roads at the end of Chap. VII. will be shown the relative dis-
tances by the various roads ; of course, the emigrant can make his own
selection. The current of the Aleghany river, though rapid, is not
impeded by falls; therefore, an uninterrupted navigation from Hamil-
ton to Pittsburg has been opened, and must add greatly to the wealth
and commercial facility of the western country in general.

The Monongahela river flows in the same valley with the preceding
stream, but in a directly opposite direction. This valley, or minor
basin, is bounded west by the ridge of hills noticed in page 252, but on
the east, in part by Chestnut ridge, and in part by the Aleghany
mountain ; and affords an additional proof that the river basins are
but very little, if at all, influenced by th'e chains of mountains.

The Monongahela rises in the state of Virginia, near as far south
as 38° north lat. interlocking with the south branch of Potomac by
its east fork, and with Little Kenhawa, and Elk river of the Great
Kenhawa, by its west fork.

The east branch is generally known by the name of Tiger valley
river, which, like the Conemaugh, pierces the mountains in its way
to the main stream : it is navigable into the Green- briar valley ;
boats have descended from this elevated region to New-Orleans, with
flour and other produce.

Alter the junction of the Monongahela, or west branch with the
Tiger valley river, thirty miles above Morgantown, and forty above
the Virginia line, the united stream forms a fine navigable river,
extremely rapid, but without falls, or extraordinary rapids.

The length of the Monongahela, in Virginia, is about one hundred
and twenty miles, following the main stream, and nearly a like dis-
tance toliowing the channel of the Tiger valley branch.

Cheat river, joins the Monongahela a short distance within Pennsyl-
vania. The latter river rises in Virginia, near the southwest corner of
Maryland, between the sources of the north branch of Potomac and
those of Tiger valley. Rising east of Chestnut ridge, this stream
flows to the north sixty or seventy miles, then turns abruptly west
through the mountain, and finally forms a junction with the main

256 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

stream, as has been noticed. At a distance of ten or twelve miles
from the Chestnut ridge, the Monongahela, after receiving Cheat river,
pursues a north course of about seventy miles, following the windings
of the stream to its junction with the Yougkiogheny. The latter
river is the longest and largest branch of the Monongahela, having its
source nearly as far south as that of Cheat river. The Youghioghe-
ny rises in Maryland, between the head streams of the north branch
of Potomac and those of Cheat river, — flows north, fifty or sixty miles,
enters Pennsylvania, and continuing north along the valley between
Aleghany mountain and Chestnut ridge, receives a large branch from
the neighbourhood of the town of Somerset, then turns northwest,
passes Chestnut ridge by Ohiopyle falls, and continuing that course
sixty or seventy miles, forms a junction with the Monongahela,
eighteen miles by water above the city of Pittsburg. Below the
mouth of Youghiogheny, the Monongahela is a gentle current, about
480 yards wide.

Comparing the two rivers together, the Aleghany is no doubt the
main branch ; at the junction, its current is much more rapid than its
rival. The physiognomy of the two rivers are also very distinct.
The water of the Monongahela is turbid, of a brown colour ; that of
the Aleghany extremely limpid and pure.

Though deriving, perhaps, two-thirds of its water from the Alegha-
ny, the Ohio evidently preseives the features of the Monongahela
river. The junction of these two streams, and the peculiar range of
their respective sources, render Pittsburg one of the most interesting
positions in the interior of North America. — Stretching through four
degrees of latitude, and flowing in opposite directions, the Aleghany
and Monongahela open like two immense arms to engrasp the com-
merce of the whole of West- Pennsylvania, part of Virginia, Maryland,
and New-York. They do so in fact, and since the beginning of this
century. Pittsburg has become, from an inconsiderable village, a city
containing from twelve to 15,000 inhabitants, and concentrating an
immense commercial and manufacturing capital, the detail of which
will be given under the article towns.

Little Kenhawa, rises west of the Chestnut ridge, or more correctly,
Cumberland mountain ; it is a stream of no considerable consequence,
falling into the Ohio at Parkersburg. How far this stream could be
rendered subservient to form a connexion between the east and west
side of the Aleghany mountains, has never been shown by any public
document that has reached our hand.

Great Kenhatvo, is a large, and from its position, a very important
river. A remarkable resemblance exists in the physical structure of
the Kenhawa and that of the Ohio ; though the former is on a much
smaller scale than the latter.

The Great Kenhawa is formed by two branches, the Kenhawa
proper, and Green-briar river.

Kenhawa rises in North Carolina at 3G° north latitude. The
sources of this river are actually east of the Aleghany mountain. Its
course is first nearly north, passing the mountains into the Aleghany
valley obliquely. Near Ashe court-house, this river assumes the
range of the latter valley, and, at a distance of about forty miles, en-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 257

ters Virginia, and continuing sixty miles northeast to Inglisville, there
turns northwest by north, passes the Aleghany mountains, and enters
Cumberland valley, over which it meanders about seventy miles, and
receives from the northeast Green Briar river. The latter river
rises in Cumberland, or Green Briar valley, and flows southwest by
west in all its length of about one hundred miles. Jackson's river,
the northwest branch of James's river, approaches to within a very
short distance of Green Briar river ; the two streams indeed flow
nearly parallel to each other, having only the Aleghany mountain be-
tween them, and what is remarkable, Jackson river assumes its direct
course towards the Chesapeake Bay, nearly opposite to the great
bend of Kenhawa, the two rivers flowing in nearly the same line,
though in contrary directions.

Below its junction with Green Briar the Great Kenhawa flows
northwest forty or fifty miles, passes Cumberland mountain by con-
siderable falls ; below which the stream, upwards of three hundred
yards wide, pursues nearly a north course of one hundred miles, falls
into the Ohio at Point Pleasant 38° 55' north latitude.

Elk river rises near the sources of the Monongahela and Little
Kenhawa, and flowing southwest by west one hundred miles, join's
the Great Kenhawa at Charleston.

From its geographical position, no branch of the Ohio is so favoura-
bly situated as the Great Kenhawa to become part of the channel of
connexion between the Atlantic Ocean and the basin of Ohio. None
of the rivers whose sources are drawn from the Aleghany valleys, are
more navigable, with the exception of the falls in passing the moun-
tains, la the various projects for uniting the two great parts of our
country, this stream has arrested great attention. — (See articles ca-
nals, and also Appendix No. X.)

Great Sandy river forms the boundary between Virginia and Ken*
tucky ; it is about one hundred and thirty miles in length, rising in
Cumberland mountain. One half the course of this river is naviga-
ble for batteaux of considerable burden. It is upon the Great Sandy
that the reed cane (arundo gigantea) is first found in large quantities
advancing from north to south ; this grass is found, though in less
quantity, on the Great Kenhawa.

Cities, — to-srns, — productions, — proposed canals. — PITTSBURG is
in every respect the principal town, not only of the Ohio valley, but,
New-Orleans excepted, of the whole waters of the Mississippi. It
was created a city by the legislature of Pennsylvania, at the session
of 1815-16.

Travellers are almost always disappointed on entering this city ;
there is but one point of approach that affords a good view of the
place; that is the apex of the coal hill, in the road from Washington
in Pennsylvania. The city is built upon the peninsula between the
Aleghany and Monongahela rivers ; the ground plan is nearly in
form of a triangle. The bottom upon which the town of Pittsburg
was originally laid out, is now nearly filled with houses ; a suburb
has been laid out upon the Aleghany called the northern liberties,
and another upon the Monongahela. The former, from the width of
the bottom from the river to the hill, and from the circumstance of the
33

258 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

turnpike road from the eastward entering through it, is extending ra-
pidly; the suburb upon the Mcnongahela cannot increase considera-
bly for want of room between Ayres hill and the river.

There are four other villages, however, that are virtually suburbs
of Pittsburg ; Birmingham, upon the left bank of Monongabela, oppo-
site Ayres hill ; Aleghany, upon a fine second bottom of that stream,
opposite Pittsburg ;Lawrenceville, two miles above Pittsburg, upon
the same side of the Aleghany ; and a street running along the left
bank of Mcnongahela, opposite Pittsburg. When (his city and vici-
nity was surveyed by the author of this treatise, in October, 1815,
there were in Pittsburg 960 dwelling houses, and in the suburbs, vil-
lages, and immediate outskirts, about 300 more, making in all 1260,
and including inhabitants, workmen in the manufactories, and la-
bourers., upwards of 12,000 inhabitants.

1 bia city is literally a work-shop, and a warehouse for the immense
country below, upon the Ohio and other rivers. On a cursory sur-
vey, when viewing the iron foundries, glass-houses, and other crea-
tive machinery, it is not easy to imagine where the products can be
disposed of; but a review of the emigration over the mountains will
soon remove this wonder. It will be useless to load the pages of
this treatise with the names of the various owners of machinery, but
a recapitulation of the objects of human wants must be interesting to
every emigrant who intends to visit this real phenomenon.

A large steam grist mill, capable of grinding into flour sixty thou-
sand bushels of wheat annually. Three breweries, in which are
made an immense quantity of beer, porter, and ale. One nail fac-
tory, including the manufacture of many other objects, in which are
manufactured nearly 80,000 dollars worth of ironmongery annually.
Two extensive air foundries, in which are cast excellent cannon and
cannon balls, smiths' anvils, sad irons, stoves, pots and kettles of all
kinds, sugar boilers and cylinders cast, and the latter turned.

Of ironmongery, are now made, sheet iron, nails and nail rods,
shovels, tongs, axes, mattocks, hoes, adzes, drawing knives, cutting
knives, vices, scale beams, plain bits, chisels, spades, and, in fine,
every object necessary in a country of this kind.

Locks, hinges, hasps, screws, but-hinges, bridle bits, buckles, and
stirrup and saddle irons, are al! manufactured.

Waggons, carts, and drays, with every single substance that can
enter their composition, and every tool, (perhaps saws excepted) ne-
cessary to their construction, are made in this city.

In November, 1815, there were neither coach or harness maker in
the city ; if that is stdl the case, an excellent opportunity is offered
to any person acquainted with either or both those occupations.

Perhaps of all the wonders of Pittsburg, the greatest is the glass fac-
tories. About twenty years have elapsed since the first glass-house
was erected in that town, and at this moment every kind of glass,
from a porter hottle or window pane, to the most elegant cut crystal
glass, are now manufactured. There are four large glass-houses, in
which are now manufactured, at least, to the amount of 200,000 dol-
lars annually.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 259

Pottery is carried on in Birmingham, where excellent stone and
black ware are made ; common red ware is also manufactured to
great amount.

To the above may be added, white lead, red lead, buttons, wheel
irons, knitting needles, silver plating, stocking weaving, suspenders,
boots, shoes, hats, saddles, bridle?, bells, stills, copper kettles, brushes
of every kind, curry combs, trunks, brass and iron candlesticks, and
in fact an infinity of objects of daily demand, brought a few years
past from Europe.

Cotton and woollen cloth is also made extensively, consisting of
blankets, vest patterns, hosiery, coarse and fine cottonade, and broad-
cloth.

Except the gratifying reflection arising from the review of so much
plastic industry, Pittsburg is by no means a pleasant city to a stran-
ger. The constant volumes of smoke preserve the atmosphere in a
continued cloud of coal dust. In October, 1815, by a reduced calcu-
lation, at least 2000 bushels of that fuel was consumed daily, on a
space of about two and a quarter square miles. To this is added a
scene of activity, that reminds the spectator that he is within a com-
mercial port, though 300 miles from the sea.

Several good inns, and many good taverns, are scattered over the
city ; but often, from the influx of stangers, ready accommodation is
found difficult to procure. Provisions of every kind abounds ; two
markets are held weekly.

The circumstance which has contributed most, after its relative
position, to secure the prosperity of Pittsburg, is the enormous mass
of mineral coal that exists in its vicinity. The coal, like all other
fossil bodies in the Ohio valley, rests in horizontal strata, about three
and a half feet thick, of very pure bituminous coal. The strata are 340
feet above low water level, or about 290 above the level of Pittsburg ;
consequently a falling body from the moment of issuing from the
mouth of the mine, until placed in the ceiiar of the consumer. The
medium price, six and a quarter cents per bushel, or two dollars and
twenty-five cents per chaldron.

Coal abounds in every hill which rises more than four hundred feet
above low water mark: where less than eighty or one hundred feet
©f incumbent earth rests upon the coal bed, the quality of the mineral
is found greatly depreciated. It has been already noticed, that the
coal strata are perfectly level with each other. In the neighbour-
hood of Pittsburg they are divided into three separate bodies ; the
first, and perhaps most extensive, is west of the Monongahela, the se-
cond, on the peninsula upon which the city stands, and thirdly, north-
west of the Aleghany river. The supply of the city is taktjn princi-
pally from the beds of the second repository, though an immense
quantity is also brought from the first.

Two bridges are, by an act of the state legislature, to be built
over the Monongahela and Aleghany rivers, in places best calculated
to facilitate intercourse with the adjacent country, and to unite toge-
ther the scattered and detached fragments of the same commercial
community.

260 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

It may be here observed, that the towns of the interior of the Uni-
ted States may be considered in a double point of view ; their poli-
tical and commercial character. Respecting the first, each town,
appropriately, belongs to the state or territory to which it is attached ;
in the second, as depots, their exclusive features are merged in the
general picture of intercourse, where all parts are confounded in one
entire whole.

As it respects political regulations, Cincinnati, in Ohio, and New-
port, in Kentucky, are totally distinct ; commercially, they are the
same. Pittsburg and its suburbs, as far as internal policy is concern-
ed, have different regulations, and are subject to municipal authority
of different powers; but as parts of a moral, agricultural, and com-
mercial society, the town and suburbs differ no more from each other,
than do the streets of each other taken separately. The same obser-
vation may be illustrated by the connexion between Boston, Cam-
bridge, Charlestown, and Roxbury ; by New- York, Brooklyn, and
Paulus' Hook ; and Philadelphia and its Liberties, with Campden in
New- Jersey.

Perhaps no circumstance respecting Pittsburg, or any part of the
valley of the Ohio, could more justly claim the interest of the reader
than the following letter. When in Pittsburg, the author of these
observations had the curiosity to carry the volume containing this in-
valuable document to the very point from where it was written sixty-
two years before, and there read its contents. The description of
the rivers and other durable features in nature are admirably appro-
priate : but the thick forest that then covered the point has disappear-
ed, and a flourishing city has arisen. The pleasing circumstances of
reminiscence that the perusal of this letter must create are numerous ;
the immortal mind that dictated it has performed his earthly services,
and has gone to the fruition of his reward ; but his name and his ex-
ample must endure to cheer, to animate, and console mankind, as long
as literature remains to record virtue, aud stimulate to its imitation.
When the reader on the spot casts a retrospective glance upon the
history of the last seventy years, and recalls the days of the youth of
WASHINGTON ; when he reviews the events that have changed,
not only this, then dreary waste, to a smiling picture of active indus-
try and domestic happiness, but remembers also how much the acts of
this youth during his ripened manhood, contributed to this change,
his heart must dilate with mingled sensations of pleasure, of gratitude,
and admiration.

" The excessive rains and vast quantity of snow which had fallen,
prevented our reaching Mr. Frazier's, an Indian trader, at the mouth
of Turtle creek, on Monongahela river, till Thursday, the 22d (No-
vember, 1753). We were informed here, that expresses had been
sent a few days before to the traders down the river, to acquaint
them with the French general's death, and the return of the major
part of the French army into winter quarters.

" The waters were quite impassable without swimming our horses,
which obliged us to get the loan of a canoe from Frazier, and to send
Barnaby C'urrin and Henry Steward down the Monongahela with our

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 261

baggage, to meet us at the forks of Ohio, about ten miles ; there to
cross the Aleghany.

" As I got down before the canoe, I spent some time in viewing
the rivers, and the land in the fork, which I think extremely well
suited for a fort, as it has the absolute command of both rivers. Tbe
land at the point is twenty, or twenty-five feet above the common
surface of the water ; and a considerable bottom of flat, well timbered
land all around it, very convenient for building. The rivers are
each a quarter of a mile, or more, across, and run here very near at
right angles ; Aleghany bearing northeast, and Monongahela southeast.
The former of these two is a very rapid, and swift running water ; the
other deep and still, without any perceptible fall.

" About two miles from this, on the southeast side of the river, at
the place where the Ohio company intended to erect a fort, lives
Shingiss, king of the Delawares.''*

The spot alluded to in this extract is now the site of the city oi"
Pittsburg ; and through which, from the first of April to the first of
November, 1815, passed upwards of twenty millions of dollars worth
of merchandise. This assertion may be doubted, but it is founded
upon a careful survey made by the author. The document was re-
ceived from the merchants upon the spot. The importations of 1815,
certainly exceeded the ordinary amount ; but if the iron and pot
metal used in the work-shops, and which are brought from tbe Lau-
rel hill, and Juinata forges and furnaces are added to other objects of
commerce, 20,000,000 dollars is not too high an estimate for tbe an-
nual amount of merchandise that passes the ware-houses of this rapid-
ly increasing city.

Pittsburg has been very justly considered as a common centre to
the adjoining country ; but it is more, — from the very extensive mer-
cantile connexions of this city, the emigrant can receive more accu-
rate intelligence here than in any other place west of the Aleghany
mountains, upon most subjects of inquiry.

There are in Pittsburg five or six places of public worship, one
academy, several private schools ; four banks, three or four printing
offices, and two large book stores. A public library has been com-
menced, but not any considerable progress made in the collection of
books.

Mr. Robert Patterson has established upon the banks of the Alegha-
ny river, above the northern liberties, a paper-mill upon a large scale,
in which excellent paper of almost every kind necessary for the
consumption of the city and neighbourhood is manufactured.

In brief, this city has within a few years assumed the form and
features of an immense mercantile and manufacturing depot. In it
men of all trades and professions may either find employ, or receive
information where employ may be found.

Brownsville, in Fayette county, stands, in point of wealth and po-
pulation, next to Pittsburg, amongst the tows in West Pennsylvania.

* Report of Major, afterwards General, Washington, to Governor Din-
widdle.

268 EMIGRANT'S GWDE.

In this estimate, Bridgeport, above the mouth of Dunlap's creek, is
included. Those two towns have been formed into separate bo-
roughs ; but in all relations of society and commerce, they are strict-
ly one and the same.

The site of Brownsville is singular and picturesque. The banks
of both Dunlap's creek and the Monongahela river are high, with a
very narrow bottom skirting the latter. The town is built upon the
slope of the hill, the houses rising above each oiher to a considerable
height. The difference of elevation between the houses upon the
Monongahela, and those in the highest part of the town, must exceed
three hundred feet.

Bridgeport was commenced upon the bank of the Monongahela,
above the mouth of Dunlap's creek. The bottom is here considerably
wider than at Brownsville ; the town has however ascended the hill,
and, from the opposite bank of the river, has, like its counterpart, the
pleasing appearance of the steps of an amphitheatre.

In the neighbourhood of these two towns is the oldest, best popula-
ted, and best cultivated settlements in West Pennsylvania. An immense
number of machines of different kinds have been erected, either in
the towns or immediate neighbourhood. Coal is abundant, and from
the peculiar structure of the ground, still more convenient than in
Pittsburg. The streets actually pass over the coal stratum ; of course
this fuel is dug out amongst the houses.

This place has been remarkable, since the first settlement of the
country, for boat building. Very considerable number of emigrants
from the Southern parts of Pennsylvania, and from Virginia and Ma-
ryland, take water here. Boats can always be had at very short
notice, of any description demanded.

The great road from Washington city to Wheeling in Virginia,
passes Brownsville ; from the former place it is distant 220 miles, and
from Wheeling, by the road, 57 ; but following the bends of the Mo-
nongahela and Ohio rivers, 1 52 miles.

The active capital now employed in the banking, mercantile,
manufacturing, and agricultural establishments near Brownsville, is
very great, and annually increasing. Landed property is now high,
and must probably remain so, if not advance.

Some of the best flour mills in the western country is in this neigh-
bourhood. The Monongahela flour is the most esteemed in Natchez
and New Orleans, of any that comes down the Mississippi river, and
many of the best brands ate from Red Stone, Dunlap's, and Ten Mile
creeks.

There is one bank, and one printing office, in Brownsville; several
gcod public bouses are also established, where strangers can be ac-
commodated with comfort, and at the cheapest rate of any town west
ol the Ale^hany mountains. The society of Friends have given tone
to public manners ; some of the most wealthy, respectable, aud influ-
ential of the inhabitants are of that community. There is perhaps no
part of the Ohio valley where a benevolent mind would be more gra-
tified to review, than this singularly active, industrious, and flourish-
ing settlement. No section of the country, of which it forms a part,
where the manners of the inhabitants are more polite and attentive to

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 263

the traveller. A bridge over Dunlap's creek unite the towns. The
increased population of Brownsville and Bridgeport must now amount
to between three and four thousand.

Of the other towns in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg and Browns-
ville, the most remarkable are, Washington, Morgantown, Union,
Somerset, Greensburg, Kittaning, Franklin, Meadville, Erie, Water-
ford, Hamilton, Butler, Beaver, Charleston, and Wheeling.

Washington, the seat of justice for Washington county, stands upon
one of the head branches of Chartier's creek, upon the road from
Brownsville to Wheeling, as also upon the road from Pittsburg to
Wheeling. It is of course a kind of thoroughfare. This town is
situated amidst a fertile, well cultivated, but broken country, amid
the ridge of hills described in page 252.

The author recollects having, when a boy, collected hazelnuts
upon the very spot where the court-house of Washington now stands.
At this epoch the town contains an elegant court-house, an academy,
several private schools, two printing offices, a very large steam flour
mill, and many other public and private edifices for commercial and
manufacturing purposes, and upwards of 400 dwelling-houses, with
2500 inhabitants. From the apex of a hill upon the road from
Washington to Brownsville, about two miles from the former, the
Chestnut ridge can be distinctly seen in a long, blue line, rising above
the distant horizon. This is the first place where, we believe, any
part of the Alegbany mountains can be seen when advancing from
Ohio eastward in the peninsula between the Monongahela and Ohio
rivers.

Morgantown is the seat of justice for Monongahela county in Vir-
ginia ; it is an inconsiderable village, on the right bank of the Monon-
gahela river, consisting of sixty or seventy dwelling-houses, a few
stores, a court-house and jail, with perhaps 500 inhabitants.

Uniontozun, called formerly, from its owner, Beesenstown, is the
seat of justice for Fayette county, and is situated upon both sides of
Bedstone creek, eleven miles southeast of Brownsville, upon the road
from the latter place to Baltimore and Washington city. Union is a
pleasant and agreeable village ; the adjacent country is waving,
though not very hilly. Some good public houses are to be found in
this town, where good accommodations can be procured.

In Union are, of public edifices, a court-house, jail, two or threo
places of pisblic worship, an academy, several private schools, and a
great number of water, grist, and saw mills, either in the town or vi-
cinity. The reader may be somewhat surprised to hear of grist and
saw mills propelled by water in the midst of a town ; but the circum-
stance arises in Union, from the peculiarity of its site. The bottom
upon which the town is built is not considerably elevated above the
level of Redstone creek ; a dam is laid over the stream above the
town, from which two or three races are conducted, all of which tra-
verse the town.

The number of inhabitants in Union are about 1200, for whom,
and those in the vicinity, one weekly newspaper is published.

Greensburg is the seat of justice for Westmoreland county, and is
pleasantly situated upon the great road from Pittsburg to Philadelphia,

264 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

twenty-six miles from the former city. The country near Greens-
burg is fertile and well cultivated. There is nothing very remarka-
ble to distinguish from the ordinary seats of justice in the respective
counties adjacent. Its present population is about 800.

Somerset is remarkable, as being the most eastern town of any con-
sequence in West Pennsylvania, and except Hamilton in the Ohio
valley. It is the seat of justice for Somerset county, and stands near
the heed streams of both the Youghiogheny and ConemaUgh rivers,
but upon those of the latter. This town stands upon the south road
from Pittsburg to Bedford, and contains about 100 dwelling-houses,
many of them elegant, and about 500 inhabitants. The Mountain
valley in which this town is situated, is the abode of health, and pure,
though often keen air.

Kitianing, the seat of justice for Armstrong county, Pennsylvania,
is a small, but an agreeable and thriving village, upon the left bank of
the Aleghany river, about 35 miles by land northeast from Pittsburg.
This town is of less consequence to emigrants, from not standing upon
any of the great roads from the eastward.

Franklin occupies the point between the Aleghany river and French
ereek, and ought to be, from its position, a place of great conse-
quence : it has not yet progressed equal to what might have been ex-
pected from its local advantages.

Meadville, the seat of justice for Crawford county, stands upon the
left bank of French creek, and is a thriving commercial town, sur-
rounded by a rich, well cultivated, and fertile country. The in-
crease of this latter town has no doubt contributed to retard the ad-
vance of Franklin. Meadville now contains seven or eight hundred
inhabitants. It is upon the road from Pittsburg to Erie.

Waterford, in Erie county, is the point of contact between the
commerce of the Canadian lakes, by Erie, and that of the valley oF
Ohio, by Pittsburg. A very fine turnpike road has been formed
from Erie to Waterford, which greatly facilitates the transport of
goods over this portage of fifteen miles. Waterford is now in a flour-
ishing state, has fine public inns, stores for goods, warehouses, and in
fact assumes the appearance of a commercial depot.

Erie, formerly Presqu'isle, is situated upon lake Erie. The site of
this Wwn was not originally in the limits of Pennsylvania, but a pur-
chase from the state of New-York. This town is now, and always
must remain, a place of great importance. Its position is extremely
well adapted to connect the northern lakes with the waters of the Ohio.
It is now a port of entry, where merchandise to an immense amount
is entered. Salt, alone, is annually disposed of here to a great amount.
Few towns of the western parts of the United States bids fairer than
this for lasting prosperity.

Erie is the seat of justice for Erie county, and now contains about
100 inhabitants.

Hamilton, in the state of New-York, is situated on the north brandy
of the Aleghany river, at the mouth of O'ean creek, in Cataraugus
county. This new town has lately excited considerable attention, as
likely to form a point of contact between the waters of the Ohio and
those of the Susquehanna and Hudson. At Hamilton, the Aleghauy

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 285

lias assumed the appearance of a river, and is from thence to Pitts-
burg navigable, when the waters are but moderately swelled by rain.

Several notices of this town have appeared in the public prints,
some of which may be seen in the Appendix. The. list of roads will
exhibit the relative distances from New-York to Pittsburg, by the
route of Hamilton, by Philadelphia and by Albany. The relative
position can be seen upon the attendant map.

Charlestown, on the east bank of the Ohio river, at the mouth of
Buffalo creek, and also on the east side of Wheeling, at the mouth of
Wheeling creek, are flourishing towias, though confined to little more
than one street along the banks of the river. The former of these
two towns is the seat of justice for Brooke, the latter for Ohio county
in Virginia ; they are, particularly the latter place, of considerable
commercial consequence.

In Virginia, west of the mountains, no other towns of any particu-
lar consequence exists. In Pennsylvania, beside those already no-
ticed, there are several others of minor importance, but of some con-
sequence to the neighbourhood where they are placed, a3 seats of
manufactures, stores, or of labour-saving machinery. Of this class
are, on the Monongahela, Fredericktown, on the west side near the
mouth of Ten-Mile creek; Williamsport on the same side of the river,
near the mouth of Pigeon creek ; M'Keesport, on the east side, at the
mouth of the Youghiogheny river. Upon the Youghiogheny, near the
Ohiopyle falls, stands Connelstown, a small place, but remarkable for
extensive iron- works.

Some others are scattered over the country, but do not merit a dis-
tinct notice.

The region we have under review, is remarkable for its mineral
wealth; more especially the most useful, iron, salt, and coal. The
former may be said to abound in a great variety of places, along the
entire range from the border of New-York to Kentucky. In Vir-
ginia and Pennsylvania are a number of forges and furnaces, where
an immense quantity of iron and castings are made. At Brownsville,
many years psst a steel manufactory has been established, which has
succeeded. The cast iron that supplies the manufactories of Pitts-
burg, is mostly brought from the waters of the Kiskiminitas. The
best wrought iron from the Juniatta, not far from Bedford.

Salt water has been found upon the Conemaugh, and upon the
Great Kenhawa, and in Wyth county, in Virginia. It is now render-
ed probable, that by sinking wells to a sufficient depth, that salt water
might be procured in almost any place along the western range of
the Chestnut ridge. All the salt wells yet formed from Wyth to the
Onondago, in New-York, are in this range.

Salt works are now in operation on the Conemaugh and Great
Kenhawa, where great quantity of salt is made. It is only those who
have resided twenty-five or thirty years in this country, who can
fully appreciate the benefits arising from those salt works.

From the end of the revolutionary war down to about 1800, when

salt was first brought from Onondago, in the state of New-York, salt

was, in West Pennsylvania, five dollars per bushel, and if the then

value of money was taken into the account, near double the foregoing

266 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

price when compared with the present standard of money. By the
introduction of salt from Conemaugh, and from the Great Kenhawa,
that necessary is now often at less than three dollars per barrel.

In point of public utility, mineral coal disputes with salt the pre-
eminence. The quantity and excellence of the latter fossil is a mat-
ter of real astonishment. On both banks of the Monongahela and Ale-
ghany rivers, as well as those of Ohio, to an immense extent, almost
every hill, rising more than four hundred feet above low water mark
at Pittsburg, is penetrated with coal. Whilst immense forests of
wood remain, the full value of coal cannot be developed ; but every
succeeding year, by diminishing the timber, will tend to render the
importance of coal more apparent.

Pittsburg and Brownsville have been almost created by the use of
eoal. When so powerful an agent as steam is formed by a fuel so
cheaply and easily procured, the advance superinduced in the arts
measures at once the march of ages. Human belief a few years
shrunk from, and ignorance scoffed at steam ; but the present state of
the arts in the United States has reassured the former, and given the
blush to the latter.

In a country which the writer of this article saw little better than
a wilderness only thirty-six years past, is now established exeiy art
that can ameliorate the condition, and embellish human society.
Where he saw the rude canoe, now floats the rapid steam-boat ; per-
haps the highest point of perfection in human conveyance which na-
ture permits.

It may not be irrelevant to notice, that the first steam-boat that
ever floated on the western waters was the New-Orleans, launched at
the city of Pittsbyrg, March, 1811 ; the numbers now on the conflu-
ent waters of the Mississippi amount to near twenty, and are annually
increasing.

267

CHAP. VII.

That part of the United States included in the basin of St. Law-
rence comprises about one-third part of the state of New-York ; a
very small tract of about two hundred square miles in Pennsylvania ;
nearly one-fourth part of the state of Ohio; all the territory of Michi-
gan ; about 1500 square miles in the state of Indiana ; and a large
defectively known northwest territory skirting between Lakes Michi-
gan and Superior, and to the southwest of the latter.

Of this region, those parts lying in Indiana, Ohio, and Pennsylva-
nia, have been noticed. The northwest territory remains unexplored,
and continues in possession of the native Indians. The western parti
of New-York and the Michigan territory are the only parts of the
expanse under review, that have not been described.

Contrary to the method we have hitherto pursued, we shall pre-
cede the statistical table of these two latter sections, by a review of
the natural geography of the country in which both are included.

In a review of either West New-York or Michigan, the first and
"primary feature that obtrudes itself is that great inland sea, composed
of five large, and several smaller lakes. Of the large lakes, four ap-
pertain to the country we are now describing ; several of the smaller
lakes are also situated within this tract.

Lake Michigan is properly composed of two lakes, Michigan pro-
per, and Green bay ; Use latter lying to the northwest of the former.
Lake Michigan is a fine sheet of water of about 270 long, by a medial
width of seventy. The navigation in this lake is good, but the con-
nexion with Huron difficult and shallow. No settlements of whites
of any considerable consequence have yet been formed upon either its
banks or confluent rivers. Most of the lands that border this lake
are the property of the aboriginal savages.

Fort Michilimakinac stands upon an island in the strait between
Michigan and Huron lakes. This town is of importance as a station
"for Indian trade. The island is barren ; but from its locality must*
in the advance of population and improvement, become of great im-
portance. Many years past, the peltries exported from Michilimaki-
nac, amounted to upwards of $230,000 annually. This post was
taken by the British during the last war, and given up at the peace.

Huron is, next to Lake Superior, the most extensive of the five
large lakes of Canada, lying in the form of a triangle ; the greatest
length from Gloucester bay, the most easterly extension to Michili-
makinac, 220 miles, and the greatest breadth from Fort St. Clair to
the north side of the lake, 200 miles. Huron is strictly composed of
two lakes, which are divided by the Manatoulin islands, which extend
in a long chain from the peninsula of Cabot's head to St. Mary's.
strait. This lake is navigable for ships of any size ; but from the
shallowness of St. Clair river and lake, the passage into Lake Erie is
impracticable, except for small vessels. A lwng bay, of near seventy
miles in depth, protrudes from Huron into the Michigan peninsula, by
the name of Sagana bay. The country around Huron has been ge-
nerally represented as sterile ; <seme latter and perhaps more accurate

268 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

accounts have given a more favourable picture; all concur in describ-
ing the climate as severe in winter.

All the vast body of water from Superior, Michigan, and Huron,
are carried down St. Clair river, into the small lake, of the same
name, and from thence by Detroit river into Lake Erie.

The peninsula, now known by the name of the Michigan territory,
is, except to the south, enclosed by the lakes we have noticed, and
by the southwestern extremity of Lake Erie. The entire outline of
Michigan territory is 650 miles, 500 of which is water.

Erie is, to the United States, by far the most important of the
lakes on their northern border. It is at this time the point of contact
between the British dominions in Canada, and the vitals of the west-
ern states. Should the canal from the Hudson to this lake be com-
pleted, its commercial importance will be greatly enhanced. When
the approaches to Lake Erie are fully examined, it excites admira-
tion to behold how far its natural position is calculated to form an ex-
tensive chain of connexion between different and very distant mem-
bers of the United States.

VTery short canals will unite Lake Erie in two places with the Ale-
ghany ; another of net much greater length will bring together Caya-
haga and Muskingum rivers. A similar facility exists to open a
communication by Sandusky with Sciota, and St. Mary's with the Wa-
bash. The town of Erie stands upon a good, though rather exposed
harbour. The general depth of water in this lake is sufficient for
ships of any tonnage. Marine warfare has already on its surface ex-
hibited all the bold and prominent features of naval combat. One of
the most verdant of American laurels was gained on the face of Erie-
After what has been done within the lapse of the last twenty years,
it cannot be dangerous to predict that thirty more years will not elapse
before a water interior communication will extend from New- York to
New-Orleans.

Upon the formation of the canal from Albany to Lake Erie, one
opinion is entertained by disinterested men ; and one source of fail-
ure only dreaded. Opposition to improvement too often creates the
obstacles which it pretends to point out ; and by exciting distrust,
prepares the way for the fulfilment of its own predictions. If this
great design is completed, it will do honour to the age in which it
was projected, and to the nation by whom it will be performed. No
doubt but to that, as to Fulton's application of steam to the impulsion
of vessels in water, the most insurmountable impediments will arise
from that distrust that seems the natural offspring of the human heart,
against all undertakings out of the common track of daily habit.

The surface of Lake Erie is by actual measurement 5G5 feet above
the level of tide water in the Hudson ; the surface of the Mononga-
hela at Brownsville, as stated by the secretary of the treasury, in his
reports on roads and canals, is 850 feet above the level of tide water
in the Chesapeake ; thus it appears, the surface of Lake Erie is de-
pressed 285 feet below the river Monungahela at Brownsville, or
about 240 below the Ohio at Pittsburg.

Ontario, the least and most eastern of the five great lakes
of Canada, form* pnrt of the boundary of New-York on the north-

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 269

West ; it is about 200 miles in length, by 40 in width. The coun-
try included in the angle between the eastern extremity of lake Erie
and the south border of New- York, is composed of table land, cut by
two rivers, Genesee and Oswego ; and chequered by numerous
lakes. This table land is divided into two unequal plains. The
lower plain extends along the entire south border of the lake, with a
width of from ten to twelve miles, bearing evident marks of having
been, at no very remote time, covered with water. The second plain
is of equal length with the former ; but of much greater extent, being
near 100 miles wide. Upon this higher plain are the sources of the
rivers Genesee and Oswego, and upon it lie that singular group of
lakes, composed of Oneida, Onondago, Otsego, Skeneateles, Owasco,
Cayuga, Seneca, Crooked lake, Canandaigua, Honeoye, Long, Hem-
lock, and Canesus.

Except the four latter, which are all small, and Which compose, in
part, the waters of Genesee, the others are branches of the Oswego
river.

The Genesee river rises in Potter county, in Pennsylvania, inter-
locking with the sources of the Aleghany river, and flows northeast
by north over the state of New- York one hundred and twenty miles in
length, falls into Lake Ontario at very nearly mid distance from its
eastern and western extremities. This river is interrupted by a
fall of seventy-five feet perpendicular, about twelve miles from its
mouth.

Oswego river is one of the most singular streams on earth ; its
western branch, Seneca river, is formed by the group of lakes that
have been noticed, which all extend in a nearly north and south di-
rection. Their discharge is to the north, into Seneca river. The
course of the Seneca is from west to east, receiving also a number
of creeks from the south beside the discharge of the before mentioned
lakes.

Oneida river rises near Rome, by a stream called Wood creek,
which latter flowing west ten or twelve miles, joins Fish creek ; the
united stream within a very short distance below their junction, di-
lates into Oneida lake. The latter lake, contrary to those on the
Seneca river, lies east and west thirty miles in length, and ten or
twelve wide. At the western extremity flows out the Oneida river,
which by a very circuitous channel of twenty or twenty-five miles,
joins with the Seneca, and forms the Oswego river. The latter
stream assoming a course northwest by north thirty miles, falls into
Lake Ontario at Fort Oswego.

It is along the higher plain, already noticed, that the waters of the
Oswego flow ; it is indeed singular, that the courses of all the chan-
nels of the lakes south of Seneca river had not continued north into
lake Erie, like the lower plain : the one more elevated, bears evident
traces of having been also once the bottom of a lake.

The higher plain is not an uniform level, its surface being cut by
the numerous channels of the rivers and creeks.

It is over this great table land that the projected canal to unite
the waters of the Hudson to those of lake Erie, is to run. In the
list of roads annexed to this chapter, can be seen the distances am?

270 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

elevation of the various points in the route of the oanal, as published
by the commissioners under whose inspection the survey was made.
Upon the map of the United States, prefixed to this volume, the range
of the canal is marked with the intermediate distances.

It would swell this treatise to an inconvenient size to enumerate the
various towns of West New- York, or, as is more generally known,
" Genesee country." It will be sufficient to observe, that it is among
the most productive regions of the United States. It abounds in two
of the most useful of minerals, salt and gypsum.

Onondago county seems to be the centre of these minerals, so pre-
cious to the people of the country where found, and also to the ad-
jacent states. Immense sums are annually saved to the people of
the state of New- York from the sale of their surplus salt ; gypsum
is now also becoming an object of commerce by the channel of the
Aleghany rivers. See Appendix, No. 1 1.

Of the climate and seasons of West New-York, little can be super-
added to what has been noticed in chapter 6.

The following list of roads embraces several routes, for whiGh no
itinerary has ever before been made ; many of the relative distances
may not be entirely accurate, but we were induced to give them
from the best information on hand, as the traveller or emigrant may
be benefited by the indication of new channels of communication,
though not minutely correct.

We have chosen the city of New-York as the point of departure
in most cases : the reader can however adapt the distances to other
places with very little trouble.

No. 45.
New-York to Lexington, Kentucky, by Philadelphia and Pittsburg.

Miles.

Newark, New-Jersey - - - 9 9

Elizabethtown ----- 6 15

Bridgetown - - - - - 6 21

Woodbridge 4 25

New-Brunswick - - - - - 10 35

Princeton - - • - - 18 S3

Trenton - - - - - 12 65

Bristol 10 76

PHILADELPHIA - - - - 20 96

The Buck 11 96

Admiral Warren - - - - 12 107

Downing's Town - - - - 10 129

Conestoga bridge - - - - 17 146

Lancaster - - - - - 4 162

Elizabethtown, upon the Susquehanna river - 11 173

Chamber's Ferry - - - - 14 187

Carlisle 22 207

Shippenburgh 21 228

Strasburgh - - - - - 10 231

Fort Lyttleton 13 254

Jnniatta 10 | 264

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 271

Miles.

Bloody Run - 6

Bedford ..... 8

Ryan's, foot of the Aleghany mountains - - 11

Stop's Town - • - - - - 17

FortLigonier - - , - - 12

Young's Town .... 3

Greensburg -v - - - 11

Turtle creek - - - - 20

PITTSBURG -- - - - 12

Canonburgh ..... lg

Washington ..... 7

M'Cracken's - - - - - io

Alexandria ..... 7

Reefer's, Virginia - -* . . \q

Wheeling, on Ohio river - 6

St. Clairsvilie, state of Ohio - - - 10

M'Donald's ..... 7

Enslow's --... g
Wherry's branch

Smith's ..... 5

Beamer's - 5

Will's creek - - . . 6
Spear's -

Morrison's - 4

Brown's - • - . . . 5

Zanesville - 9

Beard's - - . . . 12

Canaway's ... . . - iq

New Lancaster - . . . 3

Pursley's - - _ . . ] \

Craig's - - . . - u

M'Coy's - - . „ . e

Chilicothe - 6

Reave's Crossings - - - - 12

Falls of Paint creek .... g

Horn's --.._' go

January's, on Ohio river, - - - - 17

Maysville, Kentucky, - - - - 55

Washington - 4

May's Lick - - - - 9

Blue Lick - - » . - 13

Millersburg - - - - - 14

Paris - - - - - g

Lexington ----- 20

NASHVILLE, see Nos. 26 and 39— page 199 - 275

NATCHEZ, see No. 30, page 157 ■• - 432
NEW-ORLEANS, by Madisonville, see No. 8, page 40 156

By the Levee, see No. 21, page 150 224

272 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

From New-York to New-Orleans, by Pittsburg, and by the Ohio and
Mississippi rivers.

Miles.
PITTSBURG 369

(See No. 12, page 46, Nos. 13 and 14, page 47, No. 27, page 154,

No. 28, page 155, and No. 29, page 156.)
NATCHEZ (see No. 28, page 155.) - - 1613)1982

NEW-ORLEANS (see the preceding tables) - 223|2205

The stationary distances on the Mississippi river, marked in No.
28, page 15, and those upon the Ohio, in No. 29, page 156, falls
short of any estimated distance yet published, of either of those
rivers. In the early period of navigating streams, their length has in
most instances been over-rated considerably. As it respects facility
of gaining a passage from Pittsburg to any given place below that
city, the spring months are the most favourable ; but it is also the
most dangerous season to descend the Mississippi river. For persons
who intend visiting any part of the United States, west of the Ale-
ghany mountains, below 38° N. lat. the month of October or Novem-
ber affords the safest season. In most years there is a swell in the
Ohio in one of those two months ; this river but seldom closes with
ice before the middle of December, and perhaps two winters in
three not before the beginning of January.

The strictest attention to the soundness of the materials and the
solidity of the workmanship of the boats is indispensable. Most of
the accidents which happen upon the waters of the Mississippi arise
from insufficient boats. This is the more inexcusable, since of all
the vessels made to float on water, there are none in the construction
©f which so little need be sacrificed to lightness, as in the arks, made'
to float upon the various streams of the western states. When made
from good timber and plank, and skilfully formed, the ark is a pleasant
and safe vessel in which to descend a river.

Floating in the night, and particularly in the Mississippi, is a very
reprehensible practice, that nothing but necessity can excuse. Even
the steam-boats ought to anchor at night above Natchez ; below that
city the river becomes less incumbered with timber, and below the
efflux of Atchafalaya few snags exist in the stream.

Steamboats have, upon the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, reduced
the time and added much to the pleasure and convenience of travel-
ling. These useful vessels are increasing annually ; — it is probable
that, in 1820, thirty steam-boats will be in operation between Pitts-
burg, St. Louis, and New-Orleans.

Annunciations are now made in the Kentucky papers, of arrivals
from New Orleans of merchandise by the various steam-boats, in less
than one-third the time formerly demanded to complete similar
voyages by barges. Virtually, the contiguity of New Orleans to the
Western stales is diminished at least one-half by the substitution of
the impulsion of steam for that of manual labour. — See Appendix No.
XI.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE

27S

No. 46.
From the S. W. to the N. E. corner of tbe State of Ohio.

Miles.

From Mouth of Great Miai

ni to North Bend

Cincinnati

Lebanon

Springfield

Grayum's

115

Franklinton

140

Worthingtoh

149

Byseby

165

Fredericktown

189

Greene

204

Jerome

213

Northampton

260

Boston

„

266

Cleveland

290

Grand river

322

Harpersfield

- 17

339

Litchfield

„

366

fit, of Conneought

373

No. 47.

From Cincinnati to Urbana.

To Reading

•

_ '

Price's

Lebanon

Waynesville

10 41

Xenia

14 ' 55

Yellow Springs

9| 64

Springfield

9 73

Urbana

No. 48.

14, 87

From Chilicothe to Cincinnati.

Bainbridge

18( 18

Forks of the Road

Newmarket

Williamsburgb

Cincinnati

No. 49.

From Chilicothe to Marietta.

Ad el phi

Collen's

Hewet's

Harpers

Athens

John Brown's

Ewing's

274

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

No. 50.
From Marietta to Zanesville.

Houghland's
Samuel Brown's

Marietta

Waterford -

Sealy's r

Stephen's -

Salt Works .....

Zanesville - - -

No. 51.
From Cleveland to Zanesville.
Hudson -

Havanna .....

Durfield .....

New Lisbon
Steubenville -

St. Clairsville .....

Moor's -

Beaver -

Toll-bridge -

Zanesville -

No. 52.

Prom Pittsburg to Paynesville, on Lake Erie.

White's -

Crow's -

Beaver . . . . -

Falls of Beaver .....

Greensburgh -

Douglas -

Curlen's -

Youngstown -

Warren - - -

Wilson *s -

Bondstown .....

Paynesville -

Lake Erie • -

No. 53.
From Pittsburg, by Steubenville, to Chilicothe.
To Mark's -

Marshall's -

Bevington's Mills .....
Briceland's X 1 loads - - - - -

Buchanan's -

"Steubenville -

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 273

Miles.

Maxwell's - - - 8

Lattas - 3

Day's - ... - 2

Cadiz - ... - 12

Kennedy's - 7

Titus' - - - _ - 1

Wilkins' - - - 12
Martin's - - - - -4

Wyrick's - - - - - 8

Cambridge - 8

Zanesville 26

New Lancaster - - - - - - 30

Chilicothe - 37

No. 54.
From Pittsburg to Vincennes.

To Lexington (See No. 25.) - - - - 332

Frankfort ----- 22

Shelbyville ... . . - 22

Middletown - - - - 20

Louisville - - - - 12

Clarksville - ... - 3

The Knobs - .... 5

Beech Creek - .... 7

Indian Creek - ... - 6

Blue River - - - - - 12

Sullivan's Spring - IT

Little Blue River * ... - 3
Big Lick - - - - - , 8

Patoka Creek - ... - 9

Mud Holes .--.., 9

Muddy Creek - .... 10
White Oak Spring -

White River - 5

Vincennes ... _ _ - 15

No. 55.

From Pittsburg, via Jefferson, Pickaway Plains, to Urbana.

To Steubenville (See No. 53.) - - - 36

Zanesville (See No. 53.) - - - - 91

"New Lancaster - - - - - 30

Leathers ..... 8

Jefferson Pickaway - - - - - 12

New London - - - - - 34

Marble's - - - - - 5

Urbana - - - - - 18

276

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

No. 56.
From Pittsburg to Detroit.

To Warren (See Nos. 52 and 59.) -

Cleveland ....

Huron -

Sandusky -
Fort Meigs

River Raisin -

Detroit -

No. 57.
Fr»m Pittsburg to Philadelphia.
To Tftrtle Creek -
Greensburgh -

Fort Ligonier -

.Stoystown -

Ryan's foot, Alegbany ...

Bedford -

Crossings (Juniatta)
Fort Littleton -

Skinner's -

Stras burgh -

Shi ppens burgh ....

Carlisle -

Chamber's Ferry -
Elizabethtown -

Lancaster ....

M'Cleland's ....

Downing'* - . *

Admiral Warren -

The Buck ....

Philadelphia ....

No. 58.

Miles.

Duncan's

White's

Read's

Jones' (Forks)

Martin's Ferry

Meadville

Campbell's

Culbertson's

Waterford

Reed's

Erie

Wood's

CV.nauawoy

Eighteen Mile Creek -

BJiJalo .

From Pittsburg to Buffalo, via Erie.

77
131

178
214

246
-276
312

102

109

119

124

13S

158

206

224

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

277

No. 59.
From Pittsburg to Warren, in the State of Ohio.

Miles.

Davis' Tavern

White's on the Ohio river

Knox's

Beaver's

Falls of Beaver

Green sburgh

Douglas'

Youngstown

Warren (See No. 56.)

No. 60.
From Pittsburg to Harrisburgh, (the northern route.)

To the Brick Tavern - 18

New Alexandria - - - - - 14

Armagh - - - - - 22

Ebensburgh - - - 17

Munster - .... 7

Frankstown - - - - - 16

Alexandria - - - - - 17

Huntingdon - .... 7

Weansborougb - 20

Lewistown - 10

Mifflintown - - - - 11

Millerstovvn - 13
To Clark's Ferry -
Harrisburgh

No. 61.
From Union Town to Morgantown and Clarkesburgh.
To Curry's
Morris, Cross Roads -
Morgantown
Swearengen
Hill's Ferry
Thomas'
Clarksburgh

No. 62.
From Pittsburg to Washington City, via Winchester.
ToFindley's .....

Ginger Hill - -

Brownsville - ....

Union Town - ....

Slack's - ....

Clerament - -

Clark's, forks of ro. -
Smith's, at Bridge -
Bough's

278 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Simkin's

T.imiinson's -

Mussejknan's *

Gwin fous of road -

Crissapstown -

Frankfort -

Springfield -

Cpxers - - ~ _

Gale's - - . v .

Higgin's, Great cr. -

Roger's -

Ronomae's -

Pewtown -

Winchester -

Charlestown -

Key's Ferry -

Hillsborough ----- -

Lacey's -

Leesburgh -

Hummer's - -

Wiley's -

Fall's Church

Potomac Bridge, (Georgetown) -

Washington City -

No. 63.
From Albany to Buffalo, via Cherry Valley.

Guilderland - .... 9

Princetovvn - .... 7

Duanesbu.gh - 4

Schoharie Bridge - 6

Schoharie - - - - 4

Carlisle - - - - f;

Sharon " - 10

Cherry Valley - C

Springfield - e

VVaxrea - ....(;

Richfield .... 4

Litchfield -

Bridgevvater -

Sangershcld -

Madison -

Morris' Flats -

Nelson -

Gazenovia - -

Manlius - ... o

Buffalo, (See No. 64.) - - - -162

From Cherry Valley to Cooperslovvn, 13 — Burlington, 11 — New-
Lisbon, C— Butternuts, 8— Oxford, 28.

Miles.

103

lo?

122

131

137

142

148

151

167

166

183

193

201

209

215

227

237

243

251

253

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

279

No. 64.
From Albany to Buffalo, by Utica.

Miles.

Schenectady

Amsterdam

Caughnawaga

Palatine

Manhelm

Little Falls

Herkimer

Schuyler

Utica

New-Hartford

Westmoreland

Vernon

Sullivan

MANLIUS

Derne

Onondaga

Marcellus

Skeneateles, L

Aurelius

Gayuga

Junius

Geneva

Seneca

Gorham

Canandaigua

Bloomfield

Lima

Avon

Genesee river

Caledonia

Southampton

Batavia

Buffalo

No. 64.

The following is a list of Post Offices,
pike, leading from Newburg to Genev
Newburg to each town.
To Ward's Bridge, Orange County

Bloomingburg, Sullivan County

Monticello do.

Whitelake do.

Bethel do.

Cochecton do.

Mountpleasant, Pennsylvania,

Gibson do.

New-Milford do.

Great Bend do.

-•

106

112

121

133

136

143

155

161

j 73

1'7

185

1*1

198

203

207

220

22S

230

-34

243

248

260

o96

on the Great B

end turn-

a, with

thi

distance from

12
23

■■> 38

3 48

1 50

i 59

2 81

3 94

7 101

5107

Miles.

Chenango Point, Broome

County

15 122

Union

do.

127

Nanticoke

do.

132

Owego

do.

. - •

144

Candor, Tioga County

155

Danby

do-

166

Ithica, Tompkins County

173

Trumansburg

do.

184

Farmersville, Seneca Co.

190

Ovid Village

do.

200

Romulus

do.

206

Geneva, Ontario

County-

218

On the branch line from Ithica to Aubun

Ludlowville, Tompkins County

184

Kingsferry
Aurora, Cayuga

do.

193

County

199

lndianfields do

209

Auburn do

215

■

No. 65

From New-York to New-Orleans,

via

Philadelph

ia,

Baltimore,

Washington, Knoxville, and Natchez.

See No. 31

, page 158.

Paulus Hook

Newark

Elizabethtown

Bridgetown

Woodbridge

New Brunswick

Princeton

Trenton

Bristol

Holmesburg

Frankfort

PHILADELPHIA

Darby

100

Chester

107*

Naaman's creek

«,

112'

Wilmington

120

Newport

124

Christina

129

Elkton

140

Havre de Grace

157

Hartford

- •

168

Joppa cross roads

174

BALTIMORE

193

Bridge over Petapsco river

197

Vansville

218

Bladensburg

226

WASHINGTON

232

Alexandria

239

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

281

Miles.

Pohike church

2431

Ocoquhan

248»

Dumfries

258

Aquia

267*

Stafford

272

Falmouth

281

Fredericksburg

] i

282*

Wilders

20'

3032

Gumspring

123

315

Orange court-house

335

Charlottevilie

369

New -York

389

Waynesboro

396

Staunton

108

Middlebrook

119

Brownsburg

430

Lexington

443

Natural bridge

457

Pattonsburg

469

Fincastle

483

Big lick

497

Christiansburg

«.

523

Head of the Kenhavva river

537

Inglisville on Kenhawa

548

Evan^ham

579

Head of Tennessee

river

611

Bowers

624

Kings

640

Abingdon

650

Blountsville in the state of Tenn.

674

Rossville

692

Rogersville

717

Oresville

739

Rutledge

751

KNOXVILLE

783

* Nashville,

192

975

Natchez,

432

1407

New Orleans, by the Leve"e

see No

21,1

>.150.

224

1631

No. 66.

From Washington C

ity to Marietta,

by Winchester and Clarksburg.

Fairfax court-house

3 15

Centreville

)24

Goshen

136

Middleburg

9 44

Paris

2 56

Shenandoah river

160

* The reader will please to correct No. 31, page 153, by adding after Kings-
ton, « To Kn«xville, 42 miles."

282

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles,

Millwood

Battletown

Winchester

North mountain

Cacapon river

Romney, south branch of Potomac river

126

Western Port

152

Aleghany

155

Youghiogheny river

179

Laurel mountain

189

Cheat river

206

Ganclysville, Virginia

212

Tiger valley river

228

Clarksburg

256

Marshville

283

Olio river

319

Marietta

320

See page 228, article

Marietta.

The preceding table

is the mail route from Washington

City to Ma-

rietta, and from thence to all the southern

parts

of the state of Ohio.

No. 67.

From New-York to New Orleans, by the Great Bend in the Susque-
hanna river, to Hamilton on the Aleghany river, and thence by
water.

Newburg -

Montgomery -

Bloom ingburg

Sh iwngunk mountains - - - -

Nevisink river, branch of Delaware

Mos.ticello -

Cochecton, on Delaware river -

Mourn Maria, Pennsylvania •.».,'-

Bethany -

Bridgewater -

Union, state of New- York -

Nanticoke creek -

Owego -

Cayula creek -

Newtown -

Painted Post - '

Bath -...--

Canistes -

Angelica - - - -

HAMILTON

Extreme, north bend of Aleghany river

Aleghany river enters Pennsylvania -

Warren, at the mouth of Conewango creek

Franklin, mouth of French creek -

Montgomery Falls »

60(60

1171

1283

386

995

3,98

128
143

179
206
212
220
237
252
269
289
306
324
354

20374

399

20419
479

504

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE, 283

Patterson's Falls

Parker's Falls

Mahoning creek

Sloan's Ferry

Nicholson's Falls

Kittanning

Logan's Ferry

Kiskimitas river

PITTSBURG

Logstown

Beavertown, one mile below the mouth of Beaver river

Georgetown -----

Faucett's Town ....

STEUBENV1LLE - - .

Charleston - - - -

Warren -

WHEELING -----

Longreach -

Lower end of Longreach -

Little Muskingum

MARIETTA, mouth of Muskingum river -

Vienna -----

Little Kenhawa

Blannerhasaett's island -

Little Hockhocking river

Great Hockhocking

Bellville -

Shade river -----

BurTentin's island ....

Big Sandy creek - - -

Letart's Falls -----

Point Pleasant, mouth of Great Kenkawa river

Gallipolis

Little Guyandot river -

Big Guyandot river

Great Sandy, eastern boundary of the state of Kentucky,

on Ohio river - a -

Little Sciota river -

Portsmouth, Big Sciota river ...

Salt Lick -----

Graham's Station - -

Adamsville -

Manchester - - - - -

Liberty - - - - -

Limestone, or Maysville
Charleston -

Augusta -

Columbia, Mouth of Little Miami
CINCINNATI, and Newport
North bend « *

Miles.

511

524

546

560

567

574

585

590

615

627

637

647

649

674

681

687

694

736

749

769

773

780

785

791

794

800

804

811

817

821

837

867

871

88T

904

915

935

945

953

970

975

993

994

995

1000

]

1001

1033

1037

105S

284 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

Miles.

Great Miami - - - - - 6 I 1059

Lawrenceburg - - - - - 2 j 1061

Big-bone-lick creek 20 1081

Port William, mouth of Kentucky river - - 30 j 1111

Westport - - - - - 36 1147

LOUISVILLE, Falls of Ohio river - - 20 ! 1 167

Salt river - - - - - 25 J 1192

Blue river - - - - - 32 1224

Little Blue river - - - - 12 j 1236

Sinking creek ------ 20 1 1 256

Clover creek - - - - - 10 1266

Anderson's Ferry ... - 30 1 1296

Hanging rock - - - - - 32 j 1328

Green river - - - - - 30 j 1358

Henderson - - - - - 21 | 1379

Diamond island - - 18 1 1397

Wabash river ... - - 27 j 1424

Saline river - - - - - 25 | 1449

Cave in the rock - - - - 11 J 1 460

Hurricane island - - - - - 3 j 1463

Cumberland river - 35 11498

Smithland - - - - - 3 1501

Tennessee river ■- - - - - 10 1511

Fort Massac - 1. 8 1 1519

Wilkinsonville - - - - - 2p 1539

Chain of rocks ----- 6 1545

Mouth of Ohio river - , - - 15 1560
NATCHEZ, see No. 7, page 39 ; No. 27, p. 154 ; and

No. 29, p. 156* - - - - 668 2228

NEW ORLEANS, see No. 7, page 39 ; No. 22, page

151 ; and No. 29, page 156* - - - 322 2550

The direct course from the city of New-York, to Hamilton on the
bank of Aleghany river, is about 240 miles ; but as yet no direct road
exists or any mode of passing between the two places so eligible as by
Nevvburg. The distance from Albany to Hamilton is very near the
same as from New York. Nothing but good roads are necessary to
permit travellers to pass from the city of New-York to the western
part of the state of New-York, and northwestern parts of Pennsyl-
vania, in as short a time as the same distance can be traversed from
the city of Albany.

It will be seen, on inspecting the last route, that the length of the
Ohio is only 945 miles. Hutchins made that river 1188 miles; and
most itineraries of the United States have the latter distance inserted.
From actual survey of its banks, the Ohio measures within a trifle of
the amount given in this table.

* The reader will please to correct No. 29, p. 156, by adding 20 miles to each
aggregate distance below the mouth of Ohio. The real river traverse, from St.
Louis to New Qrleajis, is 1209 miles.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 285

The length of the Mississippi below the mouth of Ohio, is 1095
miles; making the entire river distance, from Pittsburg to the mouth
of the Mississippi, 2040 miles.

No. 63.
Much attention has been given to the two projected canals to unite
the Hudson river with lakes Erie and Ontario, towards the west, and
with lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence river to the north of the
city of Albany. Like all great designs, the promulgation of these
works excited much speculation and but little investigation. The
practicability or impracticability of such immense plans, have been
adopted rather from feeling than examination into the ratio of means
to ends. Without entering into any discussion on the subject, we beg
leave to present our readers with the following syllabus of the West-
ern Canal, compiled from the Report of the Commissioners who
were employed by the Legislature of the State of New-York to super-
intend the survey of the intended route.

It may not be irrelevant to give a recapitulation of the peculiar
position of the country between Albany and lake Erie. In our no-
tice of the region comprised in West New-York, the peculiar fea-
tures of the country are described, but perhaps not sufficiently expli-
cit for the present purpose.

The intended route of the Western Canal traverses two slopes and
one valley. The first slope is from Albany to Rome.

The distance from Albany to Rome, is one hundred thirteen and a
quarter miles, following the canal, rising by an acclivity of four hun-
dred nineteen and one-third feet, from tide water in Hudson to the
summit level near Rome.

A short distance west of the latter village, a valley commences
which reaches to Batavia, near the sources of the Tonnewanta creek.
This valley contains the Oneida, Seneca, and Genesee rivers.. The
Oneida and Genesee rivers flow rather across than down the valley.
The Genesee traverses it nearly at right angles to the two former
streams.

Near Batavia commences the western, or lake Erie slope. The
Canal Commissioners have marked two routes from the Tonnewanta
creek to the Genesee river, designated in their Report by the rela-
tive terms. " North and South routes." After detailing the distances
and expense of the south route to the Genesee river, the Commis-
sioners annex to their Report the following note:

" Note. — The route of the canal, south of the mountain ridge, will
here intersect the route north of that ridge. The distance from Buf-
falo to the point, eleven miles up the Tonnewanta

creek, is - - - - . 27 miles,

From that point to the Genesee river, on the north

route, - - - - - 72 10 1-2 ch?.

The whole distance in that direction is - 99m. 10 l-2ch.

The distance in the direction south of the ridge is supposed to be
92 miles. The whole expense, from Buffalo to the point, eleven
miles up the Tonnewanta, including a proportionate part of the allow-
ance for grubbing, superintendence, &c. as estimated in Mr Peacock's

286 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

section, is $205,877. The whole expense, from that point to the

Genesee river, as estimated on Mr. Geddes's section, is as follows :

Whole expense of excavation, for G miles and 42

chains, .... $401,271

Total amount of extras, thence to Genesee river 224,378

Expense of each mile, after all extras are calcu-
lated, for 65 miles 48 1-2 chains, at $2250, (for
which allowance see a subsequent part of the
Report) .... 147,611

On this sum - - $773,260

Add for contingencies, 5 per cent. - 38,663

For superintendence, draining, and fencing, at the
rate of $1000 per mile for 72 miles and 10 1-2
chains, ... - 72,125

The total amount is - $884,048

Which added to the expense from Tonnewanta to

Buffalo, above stated, - - 205,877

Makes the aggregate cost of the canal from Buffalo to the

Genesee river, on the north route, $1,089,925

On the south route, this cost is estimated at 780,000

Leaving a balance of expense in favour of the south route,

by these estimates, of - - $309,925."

The routes both pass from lake Erie to the central valley ;
the north route is not intended to rise above the level of lake Erie ;
the south route is more direct, but rises seventy-five feet above the
level of lake Erie, at a distance from that lake of sixty-two miles.
The point where the summit level is attained in rising the acclivity
of the lake Erie slope, is the most elevated part of the intended canal,
being twenty-six and a half feet above the level, near Rome.

The distance from lake Erie, by the northern route, to Seneca
river, is about 170 miles, with a fall of 194 feet. If an artificial
river was formed without locks, crossing Genesee river by an aque-
duct, the fall per mile would be something less than fourteen inches.
The possibility exists of conveying a part of the discharge of lake
Erie, down the Seneca and Oswego rivers, into the south-east part of
lake Ontario.

SYLLABUS OF THE WESTERN CANAL.

Distance in Miles. Expense.

From lake Erie to a point upon the Tonnewanta $

creek 27 205,877

Tonnewanta to Seneca river - - 136 1,550,985

Seneca river to Rome 77 853,186

Rome to Schoharie creek - - -' 71 1 1,099,603

Schoharie creek to Albany 42 1,106,087

General contingencies ... 75,000

Aggregate of distance and expense - - 353^

4,881,730

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. gttfj

Rise and Fall.
From lake Erie to Seneca river, a fall of -
Seneca river to Rome, a rise of
Rome to Schoharie creek, a fall of
Schoharie creek to Albany, a fall of

Feet.

Locks,

194

48^

133*

286

The aggregate rise and fall is - 661;

Lake Erie is 56 feet higher than tide water at the city of Albany :
and 145 feet higher than the summit level at Rome.*

The following Extract from the Report of the Commissioners, is a
Recapitulation of the route, distance, necessary labour, and ex-
pense of the Northern Canal, to unite the Hudson with Lake
Champlain.

" The examination and levels for this canal, have been made under
the direction of the commissioners, by Col. Lewis Garin, and the
line for the same has been marked out upon the maps herewith pre-
sented. There are two places of departure from the Hudson, in
order to connect that river with Lake Champlain, each of which
affords a very favourable route, in point of soil, to be excavated, and
of materials for the artificial works. One of these routes, by com-
mencing at the mouth of Fort Edward creek, and pursuing the valley
of that creek to the summit level, and then following the ravine of
Wood creek, will reach Whitehall in the distance of twenly-two
miles. This route was formerly deemed most eligible by a board of
commissioners composed of general Schuyler and others. It is, how-
ever, supposed, by the engineer, that the other route may be prefera-
ble, which commences about six miles further down the river, near
the mouth of Moses! kill, and which, by the natural channel of thi*
kill, and of Dead creek, joined to a short length of artificial canal,
forms the summit level from whence it proceeds — partly by the na-
tural channel of Wood creek, and partly by artificial cuts, which
greatly shorten the distance to Whitehall. The length of this route
is twenty-eight miles, and it passes over a soil which is, in general,
remarkably favourable, consisting principally of vegetable mould,
loam, and clay. As the northern termination of the canal, a few
yards of limestone excavation will be necessary ; this, however, is
not deemed an unfavourable circumstance, as the stone are of such a
quality as will be useful in the construction of locks, and it may be
remarked that the materials for the construction of the locks between
Lake Champlain and the Hudson can be procured with little difficulty."
Between the Hudson and Lake Champlain nine locks will be ne-
cessary, viz. three at the Hudson of 7,779 feet lift each, by which
the summit level will be attained, and by a deep cutting the greatest
depth of which will be 12,465 feet, and the length of which is about
two miles ; the summit level will be extended fifteen miles, and will
terminate about one mile south of Fort Ann. At this place two
locks will be necessary of 6,217 feet lift each. Between this point
and Whitehall, two lock?, the first of 8,223 feet lift, and the next of

* Commissioners Report, pages 87 and 88.

288 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

9,243 feet lift, are to be made. At Whitehall, the canal is to be con-
nected with Lake Champlain by two locks of 8,550 feet lift each.
— About fifteen miles of this route will need no excavation, as the ca-
nal for that distance will occupy the natural channels of Moses' kilL
Dead creek, and Wood creek. In order to turn off as much as possi-
ble the superfluous waters of freshets, and to ensure at all times a suffi-
ciency of water on the summit- level, it is proposed to erect a darn
across Half-way brook of eighteen feet in height, half a mile above
the mouth of the said brook, and by a natural ravine leading to the;
south, to direct so much of the water of said brook to the summit-
level, and from thence by several waste-wiers, into the Hudson, a.:
may be necessary for the convenience of the canal.

The water in the canal is not to be less than thirty feet wide at the
surface, twenty feet at the bottom, and three feet deep, and the locks
to be seventy-five feet long and ten feet wide in the clear.

By the mode of calculation heretofore adopted by the commission-
ers, the whole expense between Lake Champlain and the Hudson, at
the mouth of Moses' kill, will not exceed two hundred and fifty thou-
sand dollars.

From the mouth of Moses' kill it is proposed to improve the chan-
nel of the Hudson for the purposes of navigation as far south as the
village of Stillwater at the head of Stillwater falls. This may be ef-
fected in the following manner. By erecting a dam of three feet in
height across the Hudson, at the head of Fort Miller falls, the river
above as far as Fort Edward, would at all times afford a sufficiency of
water for boats drawing three feet. To overcome the descent of
Fort Miller falls, a side cut or artificial canal of about one mile in
length, and with two locks of 10,321 feet lift each, will be necessa-
ry.— These works, including the dam, locks, excavation, towing path,
and all other expenses, may be estimated at fifty thousand dollars.

Two and a half miles below the south end of this canal, at the
head of Saratoga falls, a dam three feet in height is to be made across
the river, and aside cut round the falls similar to the above, of about
one mile in length, with two locks of 6,198 feet lift each. It is be-
lieved that all the artificial works at this place may be constructed for
thirty-five thousand dollars.

Thirteen miles below this place, at the head of Stillwater falls,
another dam, of three feet in height, will in like manner ensure a good
boat navigation up to the Saratoga falls.

The cost of this dam, the construction of a towing-path, with seve-
ral bridges, the purchase of Schuyler's mill, which it is supposed will
be necessary, together with all the other expenses of this section, are
estimated at fifty thousand dollars.

From the village of Stillwater at a point above the dam last men-
tioned, it is proposed to cut an artificial canal to the village of Wa-
terford, where it is to be connected with the Hudson. This canal
will be supplied with water from the river at its upper end. Its
rength will be nearly twelve miles, and the whole descent is 76,464
feet : which will require eight locks. The excavation of this canal
for some distance near the upper end, will be considerably expensive.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 289

as it passes through a slate rock ; the middle and lower parts, how-
ever, are very favourable.

The expenses from Stillwater to Waterford, may be estimated as
follows :

76 feet lockage at $1000 per foot, - - 76,000

12 miles of excavation and towing-path with bridges,
culverts, and other necessary works, at an average •
of $30,000 per mile, - - - 360,000

RECAPITULATION OF EXPENSES.

From Whitehall to the Hudson, - - - $250,000

Dam side cut, and other works at Fort Miller falls, 50,000

Do. at Saratoga falls, ... - 35,000

To Stillwater, including dam, &c. - - 50,000

From Stillwater to Waterford, including lockage, 436,000

Add for contingencies, engineers, and superintendence, 50,000

Total, $871,000

Whether the canal from Lake Champlain enters the Hudson at
Fort Edward creek or at Moses' kill, is not very material in the esti-
mate of expense ; and the commissioners wish to be explicitly un-
derstood, that they consider the question as still open, and as one
which will require mature deliberation. It is ascertained that both
routes are equally practicable.

29* EMIGRANT'S GUIDE,

ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS.

All instruction that can be given under this head, must be more
particularly addressed to Europeans than to citizens of the United
States. Each are, when removing over the Aleghany mountains into
the Ohio or Mississippi valley, passing into a region, to the physical
laws of which they are strangers; but the citizens of the United
States, if ignorant of the natural features of the seasons or soil, pos-
sess an adequate knowledge of the moral and political institution*
of our states and territories. Though some minute shades of difference
exist between the municipal regulations of all our territorial sub-
divisions, yet so much sameness prevails in the general structure, that
the intelligent man of New England does not find himself a foreigner
or a stranger in Kentucky, Tennessee, or even Louisiana.

The European, however well informed upon general subjects of
jurisprudence and civil government, has, on his arrival in America,
much to learn, and in most cases much to unlearn. The natives of
the British islands, from the similarity of the government under
which they have been educated, and that of the United States and the
individual states, ought to be best prepared to enter easily into a full
comprehension of the true genius of our political and moral constitu-
tions. It has been seen in practice, that a great difference exists be-
tween the opinions formed by the latter class of emigrants, of our in-
stitutions, and the real nature of those institutions, than could be at
first view of the subject thought possible. No doubt the resemblance
between the judicial establishments of the two countries has been con-
sidered too exact, and it is also doubtless in the latter particular,
where the institutions of the United States are most in unison with
those of their political parent.

It is to men who remove to the United States with intention of be-
coming citizens thereof by actual settlement, and complying with the
regulations necessary for their adoption, that these observations are
addressed.

We would most earnestly recommend a sedulous attention to the
study of the constitution of the United States and of the individual
states; as also the ordinance of 1787, under the provision which
almost all of our territories are governed.

The constitutions can be had in one volume for one or two dollars :
The better to understand the nature, scope, design, and tendency of
the constitution of the United States, a work written by Mr. Madison,
Mr. Alexander Hamilton, and Mr. John Jay, entitled the Federalist,
ought to be carefully read by every stranger, on or before his arrival
in this country, and indeed by every native inhabitant of the United
States. A new and neat edition of this very valuable mass of docu-
ments has lately been given in Philadelphia, by Mr. Benjamin
Warner.

Upon the individual constitutions, no good general commentary has
been given ; but they however speak in plain language for them-
selves, and but seldom admit of ambiguity in their provisions.

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 29 i

The greatest and far the most serious difference that exists between
the rights secured to or surrendered by the people, in the formation
of our various constitutions, is that of the right of suffrage. In some
states the qualifications of voters are founded upon wealth, and in
some others upon the payment of taxes. In some states there
exist restrictive disqualifications unknown in others. The qualities
necessary to give a title to be chosen, differ also in many very
essential points. All these strong outlines ought to be known by
every person of even tolerable information who designs to become a
citizen.

A correlative duty to the foregoing is to use the proper steps to
gain a general knowledge of the great geographical features of the
country, and as minute detail of the political divisions as possible.
Though commonly thought easy, this is a task of no common weight.
From all that we have seen of the geographical delineations of the
United States, published in Europe, the most gross errors in science
and in moral deduction abound. We do not exclusively allude here
to the wretched tour-writer, whose pages are at once a libel on the
United States and a stigma upon the writer, but to the most respecta-
ble publications of Europe, on the geography and topography of
America.* In Neel's Atlas, 1814, there is a New- Jersey on the
Mississippi, an Indiana in Virginia, and a Franklinia in East Tennes-
see. The same want of common precision pervades all the works on
the subject, published in either England, France, or Germany, which
have found their way into our libraries, colleges, schools or book-
stores.

The emigrant, whose information has been derived from de-
fective sources, must of course labour under the effects of the inac-
curate materials from which that information was drawn. Every in-
dividual must, to gain a true knowledge of the various parts of the
United States, resort either to Europeans who have travelled in the
country, or to native writers. All that can be gained from most of the
former class, is worse than absolute ignorance. As we do not wish to
harass the feelings of <jur readers with a repetition of the names of
men, who have repaid hospitality with abuse, and who have given a
finish to their characters by placing ingratitude on the foreground of
a picture that no other crime could shade, we will leave these authors
to the indignant contempt of this entire nation, and the scorn of the
generous and just of every other.

Since the completion of the American revolutionary war, several
Europeans have visited the United States, whose minds were too ele-
vated to permit them to become libellers, and some who desired to
describe faithfully without either expressing blame or panegyric.
From such writers much useful knowledge can be gained. The
Marquis Chattellux, Brissot de Warville, and Volney, were of this
class. Their writings contain many valuable facts, upon the man-
ners and customs of the people of the United States, and upon its
soil, climate, and productions.

Sr>e page 4, of this Treatise.

292 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

The first travels from an author of the British islands, that has met
our observation, which had candour and good will towards the people
and their government as its basis, was Melish's travels, published about
five years past. This work, though rather verging towards panegyric,
contains much really useful information ; and possesses that one
essential requisite of fostering kindness between foreigners and na-
tives.

The late work of John Bradbury deserves the highest commenda-
tion. The geographical descriptions are correctly made ; but its
chief merit to emigrants is, the excellent advice it contains for the
regulation of their affairs and conduct on their arrival, a»d during the
first period of their settlement in America. Many of the injunctions
of this benevolent author are of the greatest import, and none we be-
lieve are either deceptive or useless. Perhaps, no traveller, in the
region visited by Mr. Bradbury, can be read with more advantage.

Alexander de Humboldt was a traveller of no ordinary cast : his
mind was enlightened by science, and elevated by an intercourse
with polished society ; and as he travelled this continent under all the
advantages of wealth and education, and in the Spanish colonies under
the safeguard of royal protection, his information is of the utmost
value to those who desire an extended knowledge of the various fea-
tures, metallic, vegetable, and animal productions of America.

Of native writers upon the states east of the Aleghany mountains,
there have been several of great merit ; but as the scope of their de-
scriptions do not in general reach the regions more particularly em-
braced by this treatise, an enumeration of their names can be of little
interest to the reader.

Jefferson's Notes on Virginia, in addition to the valuable topogra-
phical matter it contains respecting a part of West Virginia and Penn-
sylvania, affords sound information upon the climate, soil, and pro-
ductions of the middle states.

Drake's Cincinnati, a work often cited in this treatise, cannot be
read too carefully by emigrants to Ohio and Indiana. This excel-
lent performance gives the only collected mass of statistical matter
extant, respecting the centre of Ohio valley.

Stoddard's Louisiana is a good collection of valuable documents,
2nd can be read with advantage when seeking information respecting
the now state of Louisiana or the Missouri territory.

Brackenridge's View of Louisiana is a work of great merit ; the
information it contains is the fruit of a mind cultivated, liberal, and
observing. The three latter have all written their respective works
during the last ten or fifteen years, from actual observation. Each
travelled the ground described ; they were men of respectable cha-
racters, whose assertions are entitled to the respect due to veracity.
Mr. Stoddard is no more ; he fell in the cause of his country during
the last war ; the other two are yet enjoying the vigour of life.

Schultz's Travels contains some useful information ; and as far as
we have been able to compare his descriptions with the objects in na-
ture, they are faithfully if not strongly painted.

The work, however, that of all others contains the greatest mass
of detached geographical and topographical factSj is Cramer's Ohio

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 293

and Mississippi Navigator. No person who navigates those streams
ought to be without this cheap and excellent work. Zadoc Cramer,
the original author, was a man whose mind was the seat of truth, and
whose days were spent in usefulness.

Darby's Louisiana is the only statistical work extant, which treats
exclusively upon the regions included within, and lying contiguous to,
the Delta of the Mississippi river.

Brown's Western Gazetteer contains a fund of information useful to
emigrants. This work may be consulted with safety in all points,
where the author speaks from his personal observation.

Killbourn's Ohio Gazetteer, being arranged alphabetically and
written with evident attention to correctness of facts, affords a good
manual for that state.

Of geographical works professedly, there exists but one on Ameri-
ca, written by a native, Morse's Geography, published in 1796, and
republished in numerous editions since. This work contains an im-
mense document, and ought not to be neglected by those who desire
ample knowledge of the various parts of the United States. It is to
be regretted, however, that the usefulness of the only geography we
possess from the pen of a native, is very much diminished by national
and colonial prejudices ; the opinions upon the character of the peo-
ple of the southern and middle states ought to be received with cau-
tion.

Four large detailed maps of the United States have been recently
published, by Bradley, Lewis, Melish, Shelton, and Kensett.
Upon each the phisiognomy of the United States is marked with suf-
ficient precision to yield a good general knowledge on the subject.
Melish's map, extending to the Pacific, and south to the Spanish pro-
vinces, gives a more extended view of the central parts of this conti-
nent than any other map extant.

With all the maps and descriptive works that can be procured, no
emigrant ought ever to purchase land, or make arrangements for per-
manent settlement, before viewing the place where his purchases or
settlements are to be made. The most that reading can do in favour
of the emigrant, is to prepare his mind with more clear ideas of the
means to form a judicious selection. Another necessary precaution
is, to always distrust the information of persons offering lands for
sale. Inquiries ought to be carefully made respecting the seasons,
climate, diseases ; and made as much as possible from persons whose
interests are not engaged on the side of a too favourable representa-
tion.

Most men on arriving in the United States, expect too much. Per-
haps the only essential advantages offered, are the security of person
and property, and the cheapness of land. It demands excessive la-
bour, severe economy, and exemptions from extraordinary accident,
to succeed in a newly settled country ; and it demands the perma-
nency of this suit of labour, prudence, and favourable circumstances.
In West Pennsylvania, West Virginia, in Kentucky, and in Ohio,
where the establishments have continued a sufficient length of time,
the emigrant will find inumerable instances to stimulate his exertions.
Many persons of good character and intelligence, reside there at this

294 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

moment, who have crossed the Alegbany mountains within the last
thirty -live years, " the world before them and Providence their guide ,"
who now repose in ease with flourishing families around them.
The emigrant who now traverses those mountains has no savage
warfare to t -r>pal him. The first race of men who entered those
v.:1'1'- smoothed the path for their successors, often at the expense of
their fives. What once demanded almost -superhuman bravery, now
only demands persevering industry, and honest sober habits. A
great proportion of the entire number that now reside in the Ohio
and Mississippi valleys, are persons who carried with them little
more than experience in their respective pursuits, and who have
created their fortunes by their labour and ingenuity. This is not
particularly the case with agricultural men ; it forms the basis of the
private history of all classes of society. The consequence of ne-
cessary exertion has been to form a race of active, laborious and en-
terprising men, equal to any that the world has produced. The vast
scale upon which the merchants and farmers of the Ohio and Missis-
sippi valleys perforin their operations is indeed expansive. It will
be seen that from Pittsburg to New-Orleans is about two thousand
miles, and also half that distance from the junction of Ohio and Mis-
sissippi to tire latter city. Yet great numbers of the farmers are their
own factors at so distant a mart.

The commencement of their course of business is, properly speak-
ing, in autumn, when their grain is put in the earth. As soon as
seeding is finished, preparations are then made for converting into
flour or whiskey their small grain, in fattening their pork, and, in fine,
collecting for market the various staples, and in building boats for the
transportation of their property down the rivers to the mart of sale.
In this manner autumn and the beginning of winter is consumed. As
soon as the spring freshets open the rivers, these navigators commit
themselves and the fruits of their fields to the current, and in due time
float to Natchez or New Orleans ; dispose of their cargoes, and pur-
chase a horse, and return home by land. Every one is anxious to
complete his voyage in time to return to his farm by harvest, which
two-thirds effect.

The same routine is again pursued, and thus while some members
of a family are as high as the 41° north lat. tilling the ground, others
are distant eleven degrees of latitude disposing of their joint property.
So easily do men accommodate themselves to the operations of this
wide field of action, that many who, in their native country, consider-
ed thirty or forty miles a very serious journey, will in a few years
after passing the Aleghany mountains, converse familiarly upon a
voyage of two thousand miles from home, and a journey of twelve
hundred to return.

One of the most valuable results of the distant voyages and journeys
made by so many, is the infusion into society of an extent of topo-
graphical knowledge no where else known on earth. There is no
exaggeration in declaring that no people in the civilized world can,
in an equal population, produce so many men who possess general and
detailed knowledge of a space so immense.

Most of the traders are well disposed to communicate to stranger*

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 295

such information as they possess, and very few are disposed to de>
ceive. They are, in fact, a bold, open, intelligent, and candid body
of men. They are the links of a chain of extensive communication.
Like all other men of the west, the farmers and traders have a pe-
culiar apparent carelessness of manner, which strangers, even from
the eastern side of the Aleghany, are very apt to mistake for want of
attention to those who address them. The fact is far otherwise :
often when the traveller is thus thrown from bis guard, he is in the
presence of a man who penetrates the inmost recesses of his soul, and
who will recount to bis companions the very train of reflection passing
in the mind of the stranger during this inspection.

One of the greatest and most fatal faults committed by Europeans
when in this, as they term it, verge of civilized life, is undervaluing
the inhabitants. It is in many respects a very natural result of the
accounts published and read in Europe. One traveller, who, between
New-York and Philadelphia composed two large volumes on the
general characteristics of the United States, very gravely informs his
readers, that in receding from those cities, the scale of civilization
lowers, until upon the Ohio and Mississippi the savage state com-
mences. Though it can hardly be supposed that many persons can
be dupes to such representations, yet, from their tenor, prejudices
must follow in the minds of those who read them. It is against the
consequences of such ill-judged colouring we now wish to guard the
emigrant. These calumnies do very little harm to the objects, but
are extremely mischievous to those who travel the interior of the
United States under their influence. Hatred and contempt are plants
of easy growth, and very difficult to eradicate when once rooted in
the human heart.

With a good personal character and suavity of manners, it is almost
impossible for any man to reside three months on the western side of
the Aleghany mountains without finding employment sufficient to pro-
vide for his subsistence. Every man who carries with him tbose
requisites will find a kind welcome every where, and a disinterested
advice in most intelligent men he meets.

All trades are wanted, especially those necessary for the sup-
ply of the most pressing wants of new settlers, such as carpenters,
masons, smiths, wheelwrights, tanners, curriers, tailors, shoe-makers,
hatters, saddlers, and cabinet makers.

Mere labourers, however, who possess no handicraft, are as certain
of employment as any class of men ; so great is the task of clearing
land, ploughing, sowing, reaping, threshing grain, and other business
of husbandry, that all men can find work, who are disposed to gain
an honest and virtuous subsistence. To the latter, and to common
journeymen mechanics, we desire to point out a rock, that, as they
value future reputation and happiness, must be avoided ; — it is the
idle waste of Saturday afternoons in play, or what is worse, in the
grog-shop. Why this part of time should be so uti profitably? thrown
away as it is, it would be difficult to explain ; but the facts ate too
numerous to be doubted. Thousands who labour, attentively,
through five and a half days, lose the fruits of their toil and their
peace of mind in the other half, and rise upon the morning of the true

29b' EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

day of rest much more inclined to repeat debauch, than to perform
the sacred duties, that all laws, divine and human, have imposed ;
duties, that to perform, is to secure the highest enjoyment of which
our nature is susceptible.

Let the poorest young man of from twenty to thirty years of age,
who finds himself in the theatre we have under our view, only turn
his eye towards the different members of society, and at every glance
he will find men in different circumstances, who, at a similar age
with bis own, had no other patrimony but health of body and mind,
and who experienced no other good fortune but the effects of well-
conducted labour. If from Europe, he will find nothing of the hau-
teur of high life, towards men who are engaged in honest industry.
He is there relieved from that depression of heart that arises from con-
tumely, " the proud man's scorn." Treated as a party to a fair
contract, and not as a dependant, his mind expands, his nature be-
comes daily more exalted, and feelings and virtues arise in his soul
of which he had no previous conception.

Many will say that these observations can only apply to the people
of the states and territories where slavery is prohibited. That is,
however, not the fact ; a residence of sixteen years in places where
slavery is prevalent, enables us to contradict a general expression,
that in such places, whites, performing manual labour, are confounded
in the moral estimates of the people with slaves. Though less respect
is certainly paid to useful labour in the slave states than where all the
duties of life are performed by the whites ; yet the distance between
the two races of men are in all cases immense; So deep, profound,
and inveterate is the feeling on that subject, that not any where in
the United States, can property, sobriety, intelligence, and every
other advantage, except colour, raise in public opinion a man the
most remotely allied to the African, to a rank equal to the meanest
white. Any person who resides a few years in Louisiana will be
witness to some very remarkable exemplifications of this innate con-
tempt for all those whose affinity involve them in the contumely
heaped upon men degraded by slavery.

Some of the most wealthy planters in the two states of Louisiana
and Mississippi have made their outset as mechanics. They are now
respected, in exact proportion as their conduct merits. There
exists no country where skilful mechanics, particularly carpenters,
blacksmiths, millwrights, bricklayers, and tanners, have a more
fruitful field before them than in Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana.
If attentive to the duties of their professions, they incur no risk of
being confounded with any class of men but the virtuous and the
honest.

One circumstance alone can degrade the white man in any part
of the United States, to a level with the slave ; that is his own moral
dereliction. Jt is this source from which has flowed almost all
the supposed contempt experienced in the southern states by labour-
ing men.

The whole of these admonitory lessons may be summed up in few
words ; that with caution, temperance, honesty and industry, most

EMIGRANT'S GUIDE. 297.

men will not only secure competence, but wealth, in any part of the
valleys of Ohio and Mississippi.

The lessons that can be given respecting health would be in great
part a repetition of what has, or might be, said on the subject of
wealth. There is one circumstance in the former case but little con-
nected with the latter ; that is, exposure to night air. In all places
in the United States south of Tennessee, and in summer, in many
places north of that state, night air is extremely deleterious. Travel-
lers unacquainted with the peculiar circumstances of these regions are
apt to neglect, or are uninformed what proper precautions to take to
provide for their own safety.* Man is so constituted as to compel
him, in order to enjoy a healthy state of body or mind, to sleep one-
third his time ; and any circumstance that deranges this natural
course for any length of time, superinduces pain and disease. We are
persuaded that no little of the ordinary mortality prevalent upon the
banks of the Mississippi and its confluent streams, arises from undue
exposure to night dews and want of rest. Regimen must be left to
the habits, temperament, and pursuits of the individual ; no advice
from another, or even rules adopted personally, can be undeviatingly
pursued.

Perplexity of mind often leads to disease. We have been forced
to witness some fatal instances where death could be traced from dis-
appointed hopes. In no country has so many instances of those un-
founded inflations of mind been exhibited, as in the countries we
have reviewed in this treatise. As every extravagance of expectation
has been fostered, the chagrin that follows failure must be in
proportion to the warmth which hopes of success have been cherished.

Circumstances of bitter regret sometimes happen where the suf-
ferer has been guilty of no other fault than credulity. Land purchases
are abundant, where the purchasers struggled for life against the ef-
fects of one ruinous step. The causes are numerous why emigrants,
particularly Europeans, ought to proceed with the utmost caution in
the purchase of landed property. If the purchases are made from
the United States' government, no apprehension need be indulged
respecting title ; but great care should be used in choosing the spot.
The advice of persons long resident ought to be taken as it respects
advantages of commerce, agriculture, health, and other local con-
veniences.

If the purchase is made from private persons, too much care cannot
be used in conveyance. In the state of Louisiana and Missouri ter-
ritory, landed estate is tacitly mortgaged for its own price, — conse-
quently, it becomes the imperative duty of a purchaser to ascertain
that the payments have been made upon former sales, and that the
chain of title is clear from the first grantee to the seller.

The most radical fault committed by emigrants respecting land, is,
the purchase of too much, and the investment of capital in that man-
ner, which could be much more beneficially employed upon the
complete cultivation of a lesser quantity. The probable rise in the
price of land is no excuse for this error. Where one man has gained

* See page 40 of this Treatise.
38

298 EMIGRANT'S GUIDE.

by the augmentation in value of land, fifty have become rich by its
fruits. The grasping at wide spaces of soil is a natural consequence
of the great expanse upon which men exist in new settlements.
The accumulation of land assumes the madness of avarice. Land is
possessed not from any prospect of cultivation, but from vanity.

So prevalent is the foregoing propensity in the western states, that
many persons are ingulphed unwarily, who would, upon mature re-
flection, severely condemn their own inadvertence. It may not be
thought probable, but is nevertheless a fact, that within the last twenty
years no subject has been more productive of ruin, to the people ^f
the western states, than indiscreet land purchases.

The farmer, who with a moderate capital and a family, ought to
prefer a small, fertile and well situated tract as his place of begin-
ning. His surplus ought to be appropriated to improvement, and
will if judiciously applied produce more and in a snorter time than
if vested in superfluous landed estate.

To men who remove into the western or southern estates with mo-
ney, this is a rock of temptation upon which they are very liable to
be dashed. So many have involved themselves by purchasing land,
that every lure is laid before the monied emigrant to induce him to
relieve, by his purse, embarrassments created by the very folly he is
now solicited to commit.

It might be expected that something ought to be addressed to pro-
fessional men. There is, however,- b>ut one observation that can be
made as respects either of the learned professions, that they have the
same chances of success as other classes in society, if removing to
the westward. The same perseverance, attention to their respective
duties, and superiority of talent, which ensures superiority in other
pursuits, will produce the same effect with the lawyer or the physi-
cian. We can only say, we have never known an individual fail,
from Pittsburg to New-Orleans, in either of the two latter professions,
who deserved to prosper.

To merchants nothing need be addressed. The nature of mercan-
tile transactions are nearly the same in all places.

In enumerating the list of authors who have written upon any part
of the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, it may excite some surprise to
find the list so small ; but it would have been difficult to enlarge it,
without including names that, to speak charitably, would convey ne
useful information.

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APPENDIX.

We have in great part preserved the articles that compose this Ap-
pendix in their original form, as the authenticity of the information
must remain supported by the credibility of the various sources from
which it is drawn. We have presented to the public the different
representations as we received them.

No. I.

FORM OF A SPANISH COMPLETE GRANT,

(Requete, or Petition.)

TO HIS EXCELLENCY BARON DE CARONDOLET, GOVERNOR, &C

Your petitioner sets forth, that, having a family of twenty whites,
possessing forty slaves, with a quantity of cattle, he wishes to form
an establishment upon the waters of the Mermentau river; prays your
Excellency to grant him, in the name of his Majesty, the King of
Spain, whom God long preserve, forty arpents of land, with the ordi-
nary depth, &c. extending from Pointe L'Ouest, up the river.

Opelousas, May 1th, 1795.

SURVEYOR OR COMMANDANT'S CERTIFICATE.

I do hereby certify that the land as prayed for as above, is vacant
and appertains to the domains of the King.

By me

JAQUES

ORDER OF SURVEY.

We, Francis Louis Hector, Baron of Carondolet, &c. do order the

Surveyor Jaques , to survey for and put in possession, the above

named petitioner, of the land as prayed for, without. injury to per-
sons, previous grants, &c.

B. C.

New-Orleans, June 9th, 1795.

I do hereby certify, that, in my proper person, on the 13th day of

August, A. D. 1795, that I Jaques , did transport myself to the

land prayed for in the within (requete), and in the presence of Louis

300 APPENDIX.

Ramelle and Guillaume Olivier, I d d survey for and put in posses-
sion of the said petitioner W. Z. R. the said forty arpents of land,
beginning, &c.

Signed

PATENT.

We Francis Louis Hector, Baron de Carondolet, &c.

Then follows the terms of the Patent, sometimes specifying, ad
condition of the tenure, the keeping up roads, bridges, &c. nominal
in most cases.

The mode of obtaining a complete title was circuitous in the ex-
treme. After the commandant's certificate was annexed, the paper was
then transmitted to New-Orleans, and laid before the governor, who
endorsed the order of survey. It was then returned to the district
for survey. After survey, again remitted to New-Orleans for final
completion by grant.

No. II.

Canals have been projected to unite the head waters of the Illinois
with the Lake Michigan. The country near the sources of Illinois is
very imperfectly known ; and some reports respecting it are not
easily reconciled with the features of other adjacent parts, which have
been more accurately surveyed.

The sources of the Wabash and Maumee rise in a high table land.
The Wabash flows in a rapid stream, without falls, to the Ohio; but
the Maumee, before reaching the western extremity of Lake Erie, is
precipitated over extensive cataracts.

Reports have been made, statins; that canoes had passed at high
water from Michigan into Illinois ; if so, the valley of the latter must
be very much lower than that of either the Wabash or Maumee
rivers, or the surface of Lake Michigan greatly elevated above that
of Lake Erie. All the difference of level that can exist between the
two latter lakes, can bear no proportion to the difference between
the country near Fort Wayne and the water in Lake Erie. There-
fore, if so easy a communication can be effected between Lake Mi-
chigan and Illinois river, the latter must flow in a very deep valley,
when compared with the region to the east of its source. If a canal
without locks can be formed to unite the latter lake and river, it will
be the only one of the kind that nature admits in the interior of this
continent.

In point of direct utility, a communication between Lake Erie and
Wabash, would be of infinitely more importance than a similar work
to unite Michigan and Illinois. Calculating from common experience,
it would be rational to conclude, that roads, bridges, and canals,
ought to follow, not precede, civilized settlement.

APPENDIX. 301

Since the preceding article was in type, we received through the
medium of the public prints the following information, which we
have thought worthy of insertion, as tending to confirm the fact of a
communication between Lake Michigan and Illinois river.

" Piqua is situated near the centre section of Miami County,
Ohio ; it is laid out on a beautiful eminence on the west bank of the
Great Miami river, about sixteen miles from the Indian boundary
line, which bounds the county on the north and Champaign county
on the east, Montgomery county on the south, and Clark county on
the west. The soil of this county is not surpassed by any in the
state in fertility, yielding in abundance all the different kinds of grain
usually cultivated in the western country. Piqua has been laid out as
a town since the year 1807, and now contains several buildings that
would not dishonour Lexington. Besides the stores, &c. there is a
grist-mill and two saw-mills in the town, and one saw-mill within a
mile of the town ; some of the best unimproved mill seats on the
Miami are here, and there is no section of the country where mills
can be employed more profitably, being situated on a stream which
empties into the Ohio, and near the navigable waters of Lake Erie.
It is 27 miles from this place to St. Mary's, at the head of navigation
on the St. Mary's river, from which place boats can go at any time,
when there is a fresh in Fort Meigs, in ten or twelve days. There
is a fine body of land lying between this place and Lake Erie, and
west of Lake Michigan, capable of forming two more large states,
and supporting as thick a population as any section of the union. It
is about two hundred miles from this place to the southeast end of
Lake Michigan, and I do not remember seeing a single hundred acres
of land in the whole distance on which a good farm could not be
made. The great St. Joseph's river, which empties into the south-
east end of Lake Michigan, is navigable almost up to its source.
There is no better land in America than is to be found on its banks.
This river takes its rise not far from Fort Wayne ; it has two
branches, one called the St. Joseph's, and the other Elk Hart ; these
unite about eighty miles from the Lake, and form the great St. Joseph's,
which is a large deep stream, capable of carrying vessels of from
eighty to one hundred tons burden, without a single obstruction to the
Lake.

" It is a fact that a boat may sail from St. Mary's (27 miles from this
place), proceed past Detroit and through Lakes St. Clair and Huron,
by Mackinaw, vp Lake Michigan, and out through the Chicago river,
into the river Plein, and down the Illinois to the Mississippi, without
ever being unloaded — a distance of inland navigation not known in the
world, elsewhere ."

No. III.

WESTERN SETTLEMENTS.

For the following interesting letter, I am indebted to the politeness
of a subscriber, and to the kindness of a friend in this place, through

30g APPENDIX.

whose hands it was forwarded to me. Those who feel interested in
the success of our frontier settlements, will find themselves much
gratified by the minute details here furnished. It always gives me
pleasure to afford information to those who wish to remove to the
Western Countries as they are called. Let the nation spread. —
Scarcity of land and density of population will be felt soon enough,
notwithstanding the " immense swarms" of settlers we are constantly
throwing off towards the Pacific. The rage for manufacturing, and.
lor imitating Europe in all her luxuries ; and consequently for rival-
ling at length her inequalities, proprietors, grinding leases and final
pauperism, is sufficiently threatening already. Plenty of " elbow
room" must postpone the period of our arrival at this last stage — and
therefore it gives me pleasure to see the young and adventurous going
to seek their fortunes in lands yet unreclaimed from the desert. In
doing this, they are probably securing fortunes for their progeny, and
an easy old age for themselves.

Fort Osage, 330 miles up the Missouri ?
River, March 29, 1817. S

Sir — I have recently had the pleasure to receive your very inter-
esting letter of the 23d September last, addressed jointly to my bro-
ther Hopkins and myself. Although it is principally directed to my
brother at Natchitoches, it happened somehow or other to get a direc-
tion to St. Louis, from whence it has been forwarded to me at this
place. To say that I derived pleasure from hearing from an old va-
lued acquaintance, after a lapse of many years, would be but a fee-
ble expression of my feelings while reading your letter. It seemed
like a renewal of the days of my boyhood, and like a revival of
(what we are apt to call it) good old times. Although I am much
pressed by official duties, I have taken my station at my desk with
the full determination to write you a long letter ; and to answer as
correctly as I am able, your inquiries concerning this country. The
same express by which I send you this letter to St. Louis post-office,
will convey your letter (agreeably to your desire) to Natchitoches,
under cover to my brother Hopkins, and you may expect to hear from
him in the course of about two months from the very time you receive
this letter. The public newspapers, as well as your letter, had in-
tormed me of the general failure of the grain crops throughout the
southern and eastern sections of the union — and I observe also that
the same scarcity had occurred pretty extensively in Europe. I be-
lieve our grain crops in the western country have been generally
pretty good, though somewhat inferior to what they are usually. As
far as my observation and information extend, I think the last crop
was uncommonly abundant last year throughout the western country.
Such was the case 1 know in this territory ; and yet the price of
pork has been exceedingly high, and will probably be higher — the
usual price of pork is from 2 1-2 to 3 1-2 dollars per hunched ; beef
3 1-2. Now, pork is 5 to 6, and beef 4 1 2.— This is altogether
owing to the immense swarms of emigrants who are constantly flock-
ing to the country from all parts of the union.

APPENDIX. 30S

I refer you to the last edition of Bradley's map of the United
States. No. I will copy such part of it here as may be necessary
tbr my purpose.

[The editor is very sorry to be under the necessity of omitting the
section of map inserted in this part of the letter. It lays down the
course of the Missouri, through part of the territory of the same
name, to its junction with the Mississippi, Boone's Lick settlement,
with the positions of Fort Osage, St. Charles and St. Louis, as well
as the courses of the Osage and other tributaries of the Missouri, are
also laid down.]

This is truly a very rough sketch, but it will answer our purpose.
Fort Osage was established in the fall of 1803. At this time the
highest human habitation on the Missouri, except Indian huts, was on
the banks of the river, about where the red letter A is placed on the
annexed sketch, say about 38 miles by land above the village of St.
Charles. In December, 1809, business called me to St. Louis. 1
traversed the country from Fort Osage, (80 miles) to the Arrow Rock
at B, where I crossed the Missouri by swimming. — From thence I
travelled in a direct course towards St. Charles, 120 miles to C. be-
fore I came to a house or a mark of civilized beings. In February,
I returned to this place, and in my route overtook the first families
who moved to Boone's Lick, who were in number about six or eight.
In 181 1, in November, I again went to St. Louis, and found at Boone's
Lick, a settlement of about sixty families. In the summer of 1 8 1 2 ?
the first settlement was made on the south side of the Missouri, above
the Osage river. During the late war, these settlements suffered
greatly from Indian depredation, but still they increased considerably
by emigration. In 1815 and 18i6, they increased beyond all for-
mer example. The territorial legislature at their session in 1815-16,
passed an act creating the settlement of Boone's Lick, into the County
of Howard, and allowing them two representatives and one counsellor
in the assembly. The new county includes all the settlements above
the Osage river, on both sides of the Missouri, which have all grown
since January, 1809. It is said, and I believe truly, that the popula-
tion south of the Missouri, above the Osage river, is sufficiently nume-
rous to entitle them to be created a new county, and no doubt the le-
gislature will pass a law to that effect at their next sitting.

The settlement of the tract of country comprised in the new couh-
ty of Howard, seems to me like enchantment. Where nothing but
wild beasts of the forest, and savage hunters, were to be met with in
1809, of which not a tree had received the stroke of an axe, is now
nearly all swept away, and in its steed are seen rising comfortable
habitations, merchants' store-houses, a court-house, and all appendages
of a seat of justice. Merchants, traders, lawyers, physicians, li-
censed tavern keepers, abound ; mechanics find their account in re-
moving there, such as smiths, saddlers, and a variety of others ; there
are several common schools; two or three reputable preachers ; and
a weekly newspaper is soon to be printed there, by two gentlemen of
fine talents ; two towns have been laid off. and I am told the lots sell
well ; another is talked of. It is computed that upwards of a hun-
dred families moved to the county of Howard, from Tennessee, Ken-

304 APPENDIX.

tucky, North Carolina and Virginia, during the last winter ; and I do
not think I risk any thing when I venture to say, that emigrations to
this county for 1817, will amount to three hundred families at the
close of the year. Indeed I should be safe at saying five hundred. I
expect the settlements will extend upwards during the present year,
to within twenty miles of Fort Osage. The county of Howard (I
mean the part settled) as fine a tract of country as any under Hea-
ven; whether we consider its fertility, climate, or healthfulness. A
well cultivated field will produce, one year with another, 60 bushels
of corn and 35 of wheat per acre. I have averaged 80 bushels of
corn per acre at this place, but my field is small and highly culti-
vated.

Rye, oats, barley, Irish potatoes, red and white clover, timothy,
and blue grass, turn out extremely well. They raise cotton suffi-
cient for family consumption at Boone's Lick. Sweet potatoes do
pretty well ; our kitchen gardens are not excelled by any of our
country ; cabbages, lettuce, peas and onions, are remarkably fine ;
hops, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries and currants, grow wild
and in great abundance all over the country. The timber is walnut,
hickory, a variety of oak, locust, ash, cotton tree, papau, paean, cof-
fee nut, sycamore, elm, maple, sugar tree, hackberry, willow, box,
alder, some pine, and some red cedar. The undergrowth is hazel,
arrow wood, red berry, plum, crab apple, wild pea-vine and rushes.
A variety of grapes, and wild cherry and persimmon. — So much for
the settlement of the Missouri river, particularly that of Boon's Lick,,
or Howard county.

I shall now speak of the Missouri territory generally. By reference
to the map you will find it embraces an immense tract of country, in-
cluding within its limits, the Arkansaw, White, St. Francis, Merri-
mak, Gasconade, Osage, Missouri, and many other large rivers — and
I believe it embraces some of the worst lands as well as some of the
best in the western country.

The climate is generally salubrious and healthy, and the face of
the country beautiful, salubrious and inviting. Lead and iron ore are
in very great abundance ; salt springs plenty. In short, nature has
been truly bountiful in the distribution of her favours in this territory.
The Missouri is navigable for large boats 3000 miles, the Arkansaw
upwards of 1200, the White river 500, St. Francis 300, Gasconade
200, Osage 350. St. Louis is the principal commercial town in the
territory. It has from 350 to 400 houses, is beautifully situated on the
Mississippi river, twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri. It
is growing very rapidly, has at present near fifty regular mercantile
houses, many merchants, and a proportion of the common establish-
ments to be usually found in towns.

The trade of the place consists in lead, furs and peltries, and other
Indian articles, pork, beef, salt, tallow, flour, wheat, corn, oats, dry
goods, groceries, &c. Business is commonly pretty brisk, and the
merchants generally grow rich in a i'cw years. Dry goods are
brought to St. Louis, from Philadelphia and Baltimore. They are
waggoned to Pittsburg, and from thence by water to St. Louis ; the
cost of transportation from Philadelphia to St. Louis does not exceed

APPENDIX.* 305

ten cents per lb. House-rent at St. Louis is very higb, and lots for
building are nearly as high as they are in some of our larger cities,
and rising very rapidly. Lands near town are from 5 to 200 dollars
an acre. Those lands adjoining St. Louis, are worth from 600 dol-
lars to 1000 per acre. Society in St. Louis pretty good, and fast im-
proving. Provision markets tolerably well supplied, and pretty
cheap. Labourers are very dear — say from fifteen to thirty dollars
per month and find them. Good boarding is fifteen dollars per
month, including lodging — tavern prices are yet high. Building is
very expensive. Distance from St. Louis to New-Orleans, by water,
1500 miles — freight from New-Orleans to St. Louis, five dollars per
hundred. Our groceries chiefly come from there.

The Missouri territory will become an independent state in a few
years without doubt. Its population must be already great enough to
entitle its admission into the union.

If there was any prospect of my being able to snatch as much lei-
sure as would be necessary to write this incoherent and unconnected
scrawl over again in time, I would certainly do so, but there is no
such prospect. Such as it is, therefore, you must be indulgent
enough to put up with it, and make the most of it you can. It has
been written amidst continual interruptions, and I am compelled to
conclude abruptly.

For myself, I have only, briefly, to inform you, that I have been in
the public service in this country since the fall of 1805. — In Octo-
ber, 1808, I came here to make an establishment for government per-
taining to Indian affairs — 80 regular troops came with me as a guard —
the same number are here now in garrison. My office is agent of
Indian trade and sub-agent of Indian affairs, for which I receive 16G6
dollars per annum, and furnished one clerk, one interpreter of Indian
languages, and a comfortable house and furniture at public expense.
Many Indians of various tribes resort to this agency, giving me at
times a great deal of trouble and perplexity. 1 am obliged to take
my leave, sir, abruptly. If you have leisure, I shall be at all times
happy to hear from you. Direct to me at St. Louis, Missouri terri-
tory.

I am, sir,

Very respectfully,

Your most obedient servant,
G. SIBLEY.
Mr. Janes G. Mash, Henderson, JV. C.

N. B. The Indians in this quarter are peaceable and generally
well disposed.

No. IV.

THE LATE INDIAN TREATY.

Cincinnati, Oct. 17.

The commissioners on behalf of the United States, have, at the
treaty lately held at Fort Meigs with the Indians, obtained a relin-
39

306 APPENDIX.

quishment of their claims to all the lands within the state, with the
exception of the following reservations: At Upper Sandusky 12
miles square ; at Wappakonata 10 miles square ; at Lewistown 7
miles square ; at Hog creek 5 miles square ; at Fort Seneca 7 miles
square, and the tract west of St. Mary's river, supposed to be about
300 square miles, amounting in the whole to 425,880 acres. The
whole tract of land purchased, including the Indian reservations, and
the unceded tract west of the St. Mary's river, contains, by a rough
calculation, says the Supporter, 3,862,420 acres, from which deduct-
ing the amount of the reservations as above, will leave 3,345,540
to which the Indian title is extinguished. To this may be added,
say 840,800 acres lying north of the Miami of the Lakes, and east
of a meridian running north from Fort Defiance, ceded by the treaty
of Detroit in 1807, making, agreeably to this estimate, an aggregate
of 4,276,340 acres of ufioccupied lands in the state of Ohio, to which
the Indian title is extinguished.

For these lands the treaty " allows the Wyandots an annuity of
4000 dollars, the Shawanoes 2000 dollars, and the Senecas 500 dol-
lars ; together with the sum of 3300 for 15 years, to be divided be-
tween the Pettowattomies, Chippewas and Ottowas."

This, to the state of Ohio, is one of the most important negotia-
tions since the adoption of her constitution. Indeed to the whole
western country, it is by no means unimportant. When these lands
are surveyed and placed in the market, the population of the state
willjncrease with a rapidity heretofore unequalled. The local situa-
tion and fertility of soil of a great portion of this tract of country,
will arrest the attention of settlers ; agriculture and commerce will
soon spread their genial influence over it, the cottage of the husband-
man, and lowing herds will soon enliven the scene where the wilder-
ness now prevails, flourishing towns and villages will soon assume the
place of the wigwam. Our state will soon assume a high station in
the political scale. [Western Spy.

No. V.

Washington, Sept. 14.
At a late election for a representative to congress, in the state of
Indiana, nearly 10,000 votes were taken. The population of that
state increases so rapidly, that it is probable the census of 1820 will
entitle it to 5 representatives in congress.

No. yi.

Vevav, (lND.)Sept. 16.
American Wine. — The one half of the crop of wine now growing
on the farm of the late David Golay, deceased, was sold on Saturday
last, at public auction, for the benefit of his heirs, at 73 cents per

APPENDIX. 307

gallon, to be delivered as coming from the press, the purchasers to
furnish the casks. The whole of the crop, the product of about
three acres and a half, is estimated at 11 or 12 hundred gallons.
Two men and a few children, besides tending that vineyard, raised a
considerable quantity of corn and other articles.

No. VII.

Geographical. — Hamilton, at the head waters of Aleghany river, is
a small village ; but from its situation, it is becoming a thoroughfare
for families emigrating from the eastern states to the countries lying on
the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. — Large arks of 60 feet by 12 and
roofed over, are sometimes built at Hamilton, on board of which fa-
milies embark with their waggons and horses. Keel boats of from 5
to 10 tons burden may also be used both ascending and descending
the river. The distance from Hamilton to Pittsburg through the turns
of the river, is about 260 miles, and the only road by land is about
170, yet the direct distance is much short of that, as may be seen by
the map. The Aleghany is a steady stream, and is navigable for arks
and boats in spring and fall, and by occasional freshets in the summer.

No. VIII.

INLAND NAVIGATION.

The following communication relative to a new channel of com-
merce into the interior, will be viewed as of great interest. We also
insert an article on the same subject from a Pittsburg paper, and
which has before appeared in the Columbian. These articles are of
too much importance to be passed over lightly and forgotten. It is a
fact, that during the first week in this month four hundred tons of
American plaister arrived at the village of Ithaca, at the southern ex-
tremity of Cayuga lake, on its way to the western part of Pennsyl-
vania.

A merchant from Marietta (Ohio), has just left this city with seve-
ral tons of goods, (it being his second trip,) who takes them from Al-
bany by way of Geneva, and Hamilton on the Aleghany river, to his
place in the state of Ohio. This gentleman is of opinion that good?
can be transported from this place to Pittsburg for considerably less
than they can be taken from Philadelphia over the mountains to
Pittsburg.

Plaister is found in great quantities in the counties of Geneva, On-
tario and Cayuga — and is getting use near Pittsburgh, as appears by
the following article from a Pittsburg paper:

Mr. Scull — Sir, I think it a duty I owe to the public to inform them
of the benefits arising fronn the plaister lately brought to Pittsburg bv
H. & W. Jack.

308 APPENDIX.

I have made an experiment, and have no hesitation in pronouncing
it equal if not superior to other plaister brought from different parts of
the world. Therefore those who are desirous of improving their
meadows (for a proof of its good effects) will please call on the sub-
scriber, at the Black Horse tavern, 4 miles east of Pittsburg.

JOHN SERVICE.

No. IX.

During the late freshets a considerable quantity of lumber has been
brought down the Aieghany river, from Hamilton, in the state of
New-York ; and, it is said, that pot-ashes and plaister of paris may
be expected from that place in future. Although the supply of these
articles will not probably, for some time, be equal to the demand, yet
when the enUirprising spirit of the people of New-England, who have
settled, and are settling on the heads of the Aieghany, is considered,
it appears probable that the quantity of both of the above articles will
increase rapidly in this market. So that the proprietors of our glass-
works may look forward to the time when pot and pearl-ashes may
be had on moderate terms, and the farmers may hope to supply them-
selves with what plaister they want.

We shall stand chiefly indebted for these advantages to the liberal
aid shown by the legislature of New-York, towards the improvement
of Hamilton ; which, from this cause, joined to the advantages of its
situation at the junction of the Olean with the Aieghany, must make
speedy advances as a place of trade ; and we may, perhaps sooner
than we are aware of, see goods from the city of New- York embarked
at Hamilton for the states of Kentucky and Ohio, &c. It is no easy
matter to divert trade from its old channels ; but it may be done by
neglecting the improvement of those channels. When once done, it
is not an easy matter to see it back again. This is become a serious
subject for Pennsylvania in general, and for Philadelphia in particu-
lar ; and it is to be hoped, that the exertions now making to get the
turnpike finished at Greensburgh, will not be relaxed till it is carried
over the mountains of Chambersburgh. This ought to be accom-
plished in three years. New-York is wide awake. If we dose, we
shall have time to repent when repentance will not avail.

SYLVANUS.

No. X.

INLAND NAVIGATION.

The important subject of internal improvement by Canals and
Turnpikes, appears to have attracted universal attention. — In addi-
tion to the great canal from the Hudson and Mohawk rivers in the
state of New-York to Lake Erie, which commenced in July last, it

APPENDIX. 309

is proposed to cut another to connect the waters* of Lake Champlain
with those of the Hudson. A survey is nearly completed from the
lake to the river. The gentlemen engaged in this business report,
that the soil is uniformly favourable, and that no obstacles of magni-
tude are in the way of this great object. A memorial is now in cir-
culation in Virginia, Kentucky and Ohio, to be presented to the legis-
lature of Virginia and the Congress of the United States, in which a
plan is laid down for connecting the waters of the Chesapeake with
the Gulf of Mexico. It is stated in the memorial, that James' river
is capable of being made navigable for boats of considerable burden
to the mouth of Dunlap's Creek, and even some miles higher by an
increased expense ; that an artificial road may be formed with an
unusual facility, the ascent of which will not be more than an angle
of five degrees with the horizon, and the length if only carried to the
nearest waters of Greenbrier river susceptible of navigation, will not
exceed thirty miles; or if extended to the navigable waters of the
Great Kenhawa, below the great falls of that river, will not exceed one
hundred miles ; from which latter point, the waters descending with a
bold, but gentle current, for an hundred miles, mingle with the Ohio,
and afford a free navigation for boats of a large size to the Gulf of
Mexico. By this plan an inland communication would be opened,
from the head of the Chesapeake to the mouth of the Mississippi. —
Should this be accomplished, and canals from the Raritan to the Dela-
ware, and the Delaware to the Chesapeake be completed, we shall
have an inland communication from the extremity of Vermont to
New-Orleans, a distance of 3000 miles, and we believe the expenses
attending these several improvements, would be comparatively small
when we take into view the immense advantages resulting to the
eastern and western sections of our country. — In a political view it
would be of great advantage by drawing several sections of the
United States more closely together. It would reduce the distance
to New-Orleans more than one half; — and would tend to remove in
a great measure that antipathy which at present exists between our
western and eastern brethren, resulting from conflicting interests.
The valuable products of the fields and forests of the west, would
find their way through this channel to the Atlantic, and be equally
beneficial to the eastern merchant and western farmer. The apathy
that prevails in this state on the subject of the canal from the Dela-
ware to the Raritan is an evil greatly to be regretted. — The benefits
resulting to New- Jersey from this, and from a canal connecting the
Chesapeake and Delaware, would be invaluable. We hope the en-
terprise of our northern and southern brethren, will awaken the peo-
ple of this state to a sense of their true interests.

No. XL

It was our intention to have given the time in which various steam-
boats performed their voyages from Pittsburg, Cincinnati, and Louis-
ville to New-Orleans and in return, but have not been able to procure

310 APPENDIX.

the necessary document. From a recent publication, entitled " Notes
on a Journey in America," &c. by Mr. Birkbeck,* which reached the
city of New-York after the above was in type, it appears that the
steam-boat iEtna left New-Orleans on the 6th June, 1817, and arriv-
ed at Louisville on the 14th July, performing the voyage in 38 days.
The distance 1383 miles, or rather more than 36 miles per day dur-
ing the whole time of the voyage. The actual speed of the vessel
must have exceeded, when in motion, fifty miles per day, to com-
pensate time lost in stopping at various places. The full value of
steam, as an impulsion upon vessels, will only be demonstrated in
places remote from sea-ports, upon large rivers.

No. XII.

Since this Appendix was put to pre3S, Mr. Birkbeck, an English
gentleman, already well known to the literary world, has published a
work entitled, " Notes on a Journey in America, from the Coast of
Virginia to the Territory of the Illinois."

This publication contains much valuable information, that may be
useful to either residents in, or emigrants to the valleys of Ohio or
Illinois ; it is written, not without prejudice, but without any of those
disgraceful antipathies, that render disgusting nine-tenths* of the mat-
ter published by Europeans respecting America. If Mr. Birkbeck
resides five years in Illinois territory, he will not then charge with
laziness men who have, according to his own account, changed a wil-
derness to a civilized residence in three or four years. He will find
that many of those apparently indolent loiterers, were examining
him very much at their leisure. In our Advice to Emigrants we have
taken the liberty to warn them against mistaking for laziness, a com-
mon carelessness of manners characteristic of the men of the west.
The rapidity with which towns, villages, and fields have arisen from
the gloom of a desert, is a striking commentary upon the true cha-
racter of this really active body of MEN. ^

Note. — These tables ought to have made part of page 270, but
were omitted in their proper place.

Topographical Table of the Counties of the State of New-York, in-
cluded in the Ohio Valley and Basin of St. Lawrence.

Counties.

Population in

1810.

Chief Towns.

Alegbany

1,542

Angel ip a.

Cattaraugus

500

Hamilton.

Cayuga

29,843

Auburn.

Cortlandt

8,869

Homer.

Genesee

12,588

Batavia.

Jefierson

15,140

Watertown.

" See Mr. Birkbeck's Work,

p. 172.

APPENDIX.

311

Counties.
Lewis
Niagara
Oneida*
Onondaga
Ontario
Seneca
St. Lawrence

Population in 1810.

6,433

8,971
15,000
26,000
42,032
16,609

7,885

191,812

Chief Towns.

Martinsburg.

Buffalo.

Onondaga.
Canandaigua.
Ovid.
Ogdensburg.

Topographical Table of the Michigan Territory,
Gountits. Population in 1810. Chief Towns.

Detroit 2,227 Detroit.

Erie 1,340

Huron 580

Michilimakinak 615

4,762

" Only the north-western section of this county is in the Basin of St. Law-
rence.

INDEX.

Afrique- mount of, 26 ; its effects upon
the climate of the basin of the
Rhone, idem.

Alluvion, of the Rhone, 25.

, Lands formed of, upon large

rivers, the first part of a new coun-
try that is settled, 38

, of the Mississippi, 51, S9.

, Ohio, 189.

. Atlantic coast, 189.

Alabama river,32 — junction with Tom-
bigbee, 37, 130.

Alabama territory, current along the
shore of, 16 — provisional line be-
tween, and the state of Mississippi.
20 — act of Congress creating, 128 —
described, 130 — counties of, 131 —
part of in the Ohio valley, 187.

Amite river, described, 116.

Analogy, between vegetables and the
phenomena of the seasons, 12— at-
tention to recommended to the sta-
tistical student, 75.

Apple, does not flourish in the state of
Louisiana, 11— where cultivated in
France, 28— its locality different
from that of the vine, 28— in the ba
sin of the Loire. 30— in the state of
Mississippi, 120.

Argil its effects upon the vine, 30.

Arkansaw river, its great length, 49—
sources. 50— -course, idem. --descrip-
tion of, 138--country between and
the mouth of Ohio, 141.

, Post, or town of 140.

Arpent of Paris, compared with the
American acre, 6, note, idem.— also
a measure of length, idem.

Arundo gigantea, in Opelousas, 77—
79.

■ aquatica, 77.

Alchafalaya river, its length and
depth, 15; phenomena of, idem.;
a continuation of Red river, 52
—features of the shores, and raft in,
52 -joins the gulf of Mexico, idem.
— an unimportant river as respects
the culture of its banks 53 -fea-
tures of between Opelousas and
Bayou Plaquemine, 54— junction
4«

with the Teehe, 72— surveys on, 84.
Atlantic ocean, 24— why less frost

upon the shores of, than upon those

of the gulf of Mexico, 31
Avoyelles parish, 70.

Balizs, 16 and 17.

Basin, what, 24; of the Rhone, 25—
wine of, 26— features, 27

, of the Seine, its position, 27;

contrasted with that of the Rhone,
idpm— its subdivisions, 28.

, Garonne, 30.

Mobile, its resemblance to that

of the Rhone, 30— its position, idem
—warmer than the country near
Natchez, idem -hills of, 32— con-
genial to the production of vines, 33
--small grain, idem— trees, idem.

Ohio and Illinois, 189.

St. Lawrence, 267.

Basis, meridian, what, 7.

Bastrop, Baron of, his grant, 5— situa-
tion, 91 --papers relating to, 94- -
lands of described, 99.

Buyons, Bocuf. 10.

Bourbee, 57.

Cane. 56.

Carron- 57.

Fusillier, 10.

Grand Louis,57— sources/idem

Larasine, 60.

Nczpique, 56.

fetite Prairie, 71.

■ Plaquemine, 10.

Plaquemine Brule, 56.

Queue Tortue, 56.

Rouge, 70.

St. John, 11.

Bays, Campeachy, 16.

Chaudeleur, 17.

Atchafalava, 65.

Biloxi, 123.

Cdte Blanche, 55.

Escambia, 132.

Pascas-oula, 123.

St.LouK 20- -123.

Bea-vjolois. soil of, how formed, 26.

Bellevue prairie, extent, §6— soil and
timber, idem.

INDEX.

Bhcne, oriental, its Qualities and intro-
duction into the United States, 185
—botanical description, idem, note.

Bienremie bayou, 19.

Bistineau. lake lands near, S9.

Black Warrior river, 167, note.

Blakeky, town of, its situation, 21, 35,
36.

Boatmen, their modes of life, 40.

Boeuf, bayou, its banks remarkable for
the culture of cotton, 10.

Borgue, bay or lake of, 17— passages
from into lake Ponchai train, 19— its
extent and position, idem.

Bounty lands in Illinois territory, 209.

Bourbonois- 24.

Brackenridge, Mr., his works, 292.

Bradbury Mr John, his travels, 292.

Briggs, Mr. Isaac, Surveyor General,
commences surveying public land in
Louisiana, 7.

Bristol d*- Warville, his work, 291.

Brcwn's Western Gazetteer, 293.

Burgundy, soil of, how formed, 25.

Cape Girardeau, settlement and town,
14:.

Caribbean sea, current from into the

gulf of Mexico, 16.
Cape St. Anloin- 16.

Catoche, 16.

Gal island, 19- -good anchorage near,

20.
Carteret's bank, SI.
Carondelet village 143
Cattle, in Louisiana, 76 — died by pleu

risy, 78.
Canal, projected to pass the rapid in

Ohio river at Louisville, 205 — by

the Chicago from Lake Michigan

in.o Illinois river, 215.
grand in the state of New York,

269: 285, and sequel— to lake Cham-
plain. 287.
— — , various, 268.
Cereal Gramma, what, 182, note.
Chestnut Ridge, 252.
Champagne, its sterility* 22.
Chandelevr. bay of, 17.
Chaplal, remarks that the fine wine

called the Hermitage, is produced

from a granitic spud 24.
Chatellux, Marquis of, 291.
ChtfMtnteur, pass of, 19.
(Jhipptwan mountains) 30.
Christian, pass of, 19, 20.
( incirmaU, town of, its progress, 225.
, Dr. Drake's account of,

surface. 1, 147, 191.29-'.
L1ny soil, destructive to wine, 30.

Climate of France and the United
States compared, 24 — more influ-
enced by local exposure or shelter
than by mere latitude, 26 — of Eu-
rope and America contrasted, 31 —
not influenced entirely by latitude,
79 — observations upon, 171, note —
necessary to the wine and cotton
similar, 176 — manner of determin-
ing whether suitable to any given
vegetable, 177 — of the states of Ken-
tucky and Tennessee, 204 — general
disquisition on, 230 and sequel.

Coal, abounds in the state of Ohio.
224 — near the city of Pittsburg, 259
— in Brownsville, 262 — importance
to Pittsburg and BrownsVille, 266.

Commissioners for the adjustment of
land claims in Louisiana, 5: 146.

Concordia, parish of, 102 — town of,
j idem.
] Coosa, river, 132.

Cotton, can be more extensively culti-
vated in Louisiana than sugar-cane,
8 — is better adapted than sugar-cane
for persons of small capital, 10 — the
general staple of Louisiana, idem —
where cultivated to most advantage,
idem — produced on various kinds of
soil, idem — frequently killed by frost
near Natchez late in April, 11 — sta-
ple of Attacapas, 74 — where it can
bo successfully cultivated, 74 — the
principal staple of the state of Mis-
sissippi, 120 — in the Missouri terri-
tory, 142 — not necessarily entirely
destructible by frost, 176 — congenial
climate the same with that of the
vine, 176.

, mode of culture, collecting.

cleaning, he. 178, aud sequel — oil
from its seed, 180 — quantity pro-
duced in the United States in 1816,
185.

Courlableau river, 59— how formed,
88.

Cow of Louisiana, its character, 77

Creeks, Bayou Pierre, 115.

Big-belly, 221.

Burnt corn, 134.

Big Swamp, 133.

Catoma. 133.

Coles, 115.

Conecuh, 133.

Derby's, 221.

Deer. 221.

Fairchild, 115.

Fishing, 253.

French, 254.

Herod'?, 134.

Killbuck, 223.

— i Kitchaphone, 134.

INDEX.

ii.

Line, 132.

■ Mahoning, 223.

Mil!, 221.

Mohecan. 222,

Murder. 134.

■ Owl, 222.

Paint, 221.

Pinchona, 133.

Pohlala. 133.

Salt. 221.

— ; Sepulsas, 134.

St. Catherine, 115.

Summochicola, 134.

Walnut, 221.

Whetstone, 221.

Cuba, island of, 16.

Cumberland mountain, 103, 195, 204,

252.
Current upon the coast of Alabama

Territory, 16 — state of Mississippi,

idem.
Louisiana, idem — Texas, idem

— Vice-Royalty of Mexico, idem —

Bay of Campeachy, idem — Yucutan,

idem.

Darby's Louisiana, 293.

Dauphin island, 19.

Delta of the Mississippi, phenomena
of, 13 — country west of, its interest-
ing character, 49.

defined, 87, note.

Detour des Anglais (English Turn,) IT

Dog island, 19.

Drake. Dr. his account of Cincinnati,
preface, character of the work, 147-
191— recommended to emigrants,
292.

Dunbar, Mr. William, quoted, 245.

Mlicott, Mr. Andrew, determined
where the 31st degree,'north lat. iu-
tersects the Mississippi river, 7.

Emigrants to Louisiana, Mississippi
and Alabama, advice to, 42 — to
those who visit the Ohio basin, 251.

general advice to all classes of.

290.

Emigration, into the Missouri terri-
tory, 145.

into Tennessee, 196.

Kentucky, 203.

Illinois, 208.

■ Indiana, 213.

. State of Ohio, 219.

English Turn, 17.

Etergreen trees, in the basin of tfee

Rhone, 27— southeastern part of
Georgia. 31.
Exposure to the north and south winds,
importance of, in the theory of vege-
tation, 25— in producing the fine
wines of Rochefort and Beaume, 26
--why the olive tree has perished
in some parts of France, where it
was formerly cultivated, idem. --ad-
vice respecting, idem —the reason
why vines grow at Laon and not at
Rouen and Havre, though upon the
same latitude, 27— examples of its
effects, idem ---shelter, its effects, 28.
Phenomena of, in the basin of

the Loire, 29.

upon the shores of the Gulf of

Mexico, 31.

in the Mobile valley, 32.

upon the olive tree in France,

167— observations on, 174, note.

FoAisse point bend, 72— town of New-
Iberia on, idem.

Ferruginous earth, injurious to wine,
30.

Fig tree, 11, 183.

Flax, 184.

Fioetz rock, what, 139, note.

Florida, point, 16.

West- part of, incorporated in

the state of Louisiana, 3— current
upon its shores. 16.

Fort Claiborne. 21,25, 36.

> St. Stephens, 21. 35, 36. its cen-
tral position. 3S--roads from, idem,
described, 39.

Stoddert.2T

France, south of. resemblance to the
southern parts of the Un;ted States,
21- compared, 167; note.

Franche Compte. soil of, how formed,
125— cheese of, 27- -mountains, 29.

Frost, occurs annually at New Or-
leans, ll--remarkable, of 17S9-90,
and of 1S14-I5, idem— frequently
destroys the sugar cane, cotton, and
orange tree, on the Gulf of Mexico,
11— why less frost on the Atlantic
coast than upon the shores of the
Gulf of Mexico, 31- -effects upon
the olive tree, 171— general effects
upon vegetables, 175— severe at
Natchez, 246, idem, note— cause of
its influence upon vegetables.

Fruits, those most generally cultivated
in the southern parts of the United
States, 183

Gardens, in Louisiana, neglected) 11—

LNDEX.

the best, those of M. Bringier, and
Cevallos, i.lem.

Georgia, sugar cane cultivated, in-
duction, 31.

Grant, to Baron Bastrop, 5— papers
relating to, 94.

French and Spanish in Louisi

ana, 6.

French emigrants, 22.

= Hownas. 5.

Marquis Maison Rouge, 5— papers

relating to, 92.
Gulf of Mexico, 11— tides of, 15—

currents, 16 --its shores contrasted

with the shore of the Atlantic ocean,

30.
Gypsum, formed on Ouachitia, 51— in

the state of N. York, 270.

Hackc, point of. 17.

Hammock, land, its character, 32—
abounds near Red river, 89

Hamilton, distance from N. York, 284

Hemp, 184— quantity of Hemp baling,
cloth and cordage, necessary for
320.000 bales of cotton, 185- its
culture compared with that of flax,
idem.

Hermitage wine, produced from grapes
growing in granitic sand, 24— cha-
racter of, 27.

Heron, pass of, 19— its position, 21—
shallow, idem.— depth, 136.

Hilh, in France, 28- -between Nevers
and Nantz, 30— between the waters
of Tombigbee and Yazoo, 32— be-
tween Pearle and Pascagoula, 32—
between the confluent waters of the
Mississippi and those of lake Maure-
pas and Pontchartrain,32— in Ope-
lousas and Attacapas. 73— between
Red and Sabine river, 85— west of
Sabine, 85— between Red and Oua-
chitta rivers, 90--in the state of
Mississippi, 116— in Missouri ter-
ritory, 137— between Arkansaw,
White, and St. Francis rivers, and
the Missouri and Mississippi, 142—
dividing ridge between the waters
of the Ohio valley and shores of the
Atlantic declivity, 190 -in Tennes-
see, 195— in the state of Indiana, 216
—in the state of Ohio, 224— in west
Pennsylvania and west Virginia,
252.

of Cote Blanch, Belle Isle, Grand

C6te, Petite Anse, and Cote Carline.
Their character, 68.

i of Bayou Rouge, singular posi-
tion and features, 69— included in
the Parish of Avoyelles, 70.

Homochitto river described, 115.

Horn Island, 19.

Horticulture, practicability of, in the
state of Louisiana, 11.

Hot springs on Ouachitta settlement,
140.

Hudson, river of, phenomena, 189—
canal from, to lake Erie, 285— to
lake Champlain, 287.

Humboldt, baron, his works on Ame-
rica valuable, 29£

Hunlsville, town of, 138.

Huron lake, described- 267.

Hutchms, Mr., his observations upon
the Mississippi, erroneous, 13.

Illinois river, 209— its current gentle,
210— confluent streams, idem.— not
correctly known, 211- -its length,
idem.— canals to unite with the lake
Michigan, 26S.

Illinois territory, position and popula-
tion, 187- boundaries, 207 topo-
graphical table of, 208— progressive
geography, 212— towns, 213.

Indiana- state of, position, extent and
population, 187, 213— statistical ta-
ble of, idem.— rivers, 214v- towns,
villages, and schools, 216— produc-
tions and staples, idem.

Indigo, its relative value, table page, 7
— may be cultivated as extensively
in Louisiana as cotton or tobacco,
10 — has been a staple commodity of
Louisiana, 10 — compared with other
staples. 180 — objections to its cul-
ture, idem.

Inundation of the Mississippi and con-
fluent streams ; effects upon the sa-
lubrity of the atmosphere, 12 — ex-
tent of, trver-rated, idem — width of
below 33° N. lat. idem — extent of,
13 — their cause, 14 — relative times
of, at Natchez and New-Orleans,
idem — two of the Mississippi an-
nually, 52.

Iron, native, found in Texas and
brought to New-York, 51.

Islands, Cat, 123.

Dauphine, 123.

Dog, 123.

Malheureux, 123.

Marianne, 123.

Ship, 123.

Jefferson, Mr., Notes on Virginia, 147,

quoted, 235, 292.
Jura, mount of, 25, 27.

INDEX.

Ktukatkia town, 213.

Kenhawa, great, river, 191— described,
256.

Kentucky, best account of its climate,
Drake's Cincinnati, 1.

■- position, extent, and popula-
tion, 187 — boundaries, 201 — topo
graphical table f, 202 — progressive
geography, 203 — natural features
and productions, 203— rivers of,

204 manufactures, 205 — staples,

idem — timber, 206 — towns, colleges,
schools, idem — Transylvania Uni-
versity, idem.

KiUbourris Ohio Gazetteer, 293.

Kitkiminitas river, 254.

Lakes, Bisteneau, 87.

Black, 87.

Bodcau, 87.

Borgre, 17, 19, 32.

Calcasiu, 55.

Chetimachas, 13, 55.

Concordia, 13.

Erie, 215, 268

— - Fausse reviere, 13.

Homocliitto, 13.

Huron, 267.

Maurepas, 13, 32.

Mermentau. 55.

Michigan, 215, 267.

— ^— Natchitoches, 87.

Netches, 65.

Ontario, 268.

Pontchartrain, 13, 19.

Providence, 13.

Sabine, 55.

St. John, 13.

St. Joseph, 13.

Spanish, 87.

Yazoo, 13.

Land, public, manner of surveying
and selling, 6.

titles in Louisiana; their variety

public, none yet sold in Louisiana

offices, at Opelousas and New-
Orleans, 4.

Langres, mountains of, 27 — the most
elevated town of France, 28.

Laon, and Rheime, why wine pro
duced at, and not at Rouen and
Havre, though on the same latitude
27

Live oak, in Opelousas and Attacapas
63, 64— -a demarkation of climate
65--an exotic at Opelousas church,
idem— its locality, 75

Laurel Hill, 252.

Loftus heights, 32, 116.

Loire, basin of, its divisions, 29 — pro-
ductions, idem.

Louisiana. Stodard's view of, 1.

, Bratkenridge's view of, 1.

, Darby's statistical, ib. —

when taken possession of by the
United States' govern mciii tempora-
rily divided into two territories,
Louisiana and Orleans, 3 — its es-
tent, 50- -the largest bloodless con-
quesl ever made by man, 146 —
fidelity and bravery of its inhabi-
tants, idem.

Louisiana, state of, the same with the
territory of Orleans- except the ad-
dition of West Florida, 3 -extent
and limits, 4 -posts in, idem-- extent
of arable land, in table page 9— cur-
rent upon its coast, 16---cai!.ies
which have retarded its population,
146.

Lyons, city of, its relative climate, 26,

Miison Rouge's grant, 5, 92.

Maurepas lake, 32

Maize, its extensive culture and value,
in the Mississippi valley, 10--. ts pro-
duct on a given extent variable, 11
—time of planting, idem.

Manatoulin islands, 267.

Marianne islands. 19.

Malheuraux islands, 19.
— , pass of, 20.

Mediterranean sea, 24.

Metia Azederach, (pride of India)
flowers and leaves of destroyed by
frost at Opelousas, April 1814.

Mentelle and Make Brun, their geogra-
phy quoted, 4, note, 22, 23.

Melish's view of the United States,l —
his map of, 293.

Meteorological and vegetable analogi-
cal laws, their use in investigations
on climates, 12.

Mexico, gulf of, frosts upon its northern
banks, 11 — tides in, their height,
15 — current westward from the
mouth of the Mississippi, 16; shore
of betweeHthe mouths of the Sabine
and Calcasiu rivers, surveyed by
the author of this treatise, 16 — cur-
rent enters between capes Catoche
and St. Antoine, its course, idem —
its shores contrasted with those of
the Atlantic ocean, 30 — shore of
from the mouth of the Sabine to
the Mermentau rivers, 57— best map
©f, idem.

INDEX.

Mexico, city of, distance by land from
New Orleans, 44.

Mexico viceroyalty, current upon its
eastern shore, 16.

Mississippi, river of, 10 — inundations.
12 — causes of (lie changes in its bed,
13 — rapidity of its stream over-ra-
ted, 14 — current of explained, 15 —
distance of its mouth from New
Orleans, 16 — setllements upon it-;
banks, idem — outlets of, 18 — how
far capable of being deepened, idem
— country west of its Delta, 49, 85
— forms part of the western limit of
the stale of the same name, 118 —
floating upon in the night condemn
ed. 272 — steam-boats on, idem.

Mississippi, state of, current upon its
coast, 16 — provisional line between
and the Alabama territory, 20 —
compared with the state of Tennes-
see, 196 — act of congress creating
of, 104— -its extent and population,
106 — Dr. Wm Lattimore's speech
respecting, 107 — productions, 114 —
natural divisions, 118 — trees of, 119
— climate and seasons, 121.

Geological structure, 122

— staples, 124 — part of the territory
of in the Ohio valley, 1S7.

Missouri, territory of, its extent, 137 —
natnral divisions, idem — statistscal
table of, idem — causes which have
retarded its population, 146 — climate
and seasons, 149.

river, 14, 1S7 — banks, 140 —

peninsula between and the Missis-
sippi river, idem.

Mobile, basin of, its features, 30 — hills
of, 32 — extent, 33 — soil, idem — con-
genial to the production of vines,
idem — trees of, idem — variety of its
various sections respecting health.
38.

bay of, depth, 21,32 — commu-
nication between and New Orleans,
123— with the interior of Alabama
territory, 138.

river, 29— the Rhone of North

America, 32, and 167, note.

town of, 21, 35— situation, 36.

Moiilclimar, situation of, 26.

MonliceUh, in Virginia, scat of Mr.
Thomas Jefferson, 234.

Monticelb, seat of government in the
state of Mississippi, latitude of, 30,
and 126 — situation of, idem.

Mountains — Africa, its effect^ upon
the climate of the basin of liie
Rhone, 26.

, Alcgliany, 32 — not the divi-
ding ridge between the waters of

the Atlantic declivity and Ohio val-
ley, 190 — genera! features, 244.

Chippewan, 51.

— Cumberland, 193, 195, and

204.

Dauphiny, 29.

Tranche Coropte, 29.

Horez, 29.

Jura) an embranchment of

the Alps, 25, 27.

Limosin, 29.

Masserne, 21 — character of,

idem — part of the Chippewan, 245.
Langres, 27 — forms the de-

markation between the basins of the
Rhone, Meuse, and Seine, idem —
joins the mountains of Lorraine, 25.

St. Esprit, 27.

St. Saba, 51 ; imperfectly

known, idem.

Ventose, 27.

Vivarais, divides the waters

of Trance which flow into the Medi-
terranean sea, from those which are
discharged into the Atlantic ocean,
24.

Mulberry tree, 186.

Musqueto, effects of its bite on human
health, 4; where found, idem; ad-
vice respecting, idem- ; curtain,
41.

Nashville, distance from New Orleans,
43.

Natchez, lake, 52; at what seasons
passable with boats, 54.

Natchez, seasons of, compared with
those at New Orleans, 11 j its dis-
tance from the month of the great
Kenhawa river, 15; apples cultiva-
ted near, 28, note ; establishment
of in 1718 by the Trench, 70; in-
habitants of massacred by the sava-
ges 1729, idem ; climate of, 121 :
geographical position, 126; sea-
sons, 148 ; season of collecting
cotton near, 178.

Natchitoches, parish of, 101 ; town of,
idem ; road to St. Louis, 149 ;
its important position, idem.

Nelchez river, 55.

New Iberia, situation of, 72 ; contrast-
ed with St. Martinsville, 74 ; a port
of entry, idem.

New Madrid, town of, 141.

Neiv Orleatis, land office opened at,
when, 5 ; seasons at very variable,
11 ; frequent severity of, idem ; few
winters occur without frost, idem;
difference between the seasons at,
and those at Natchez remarkable,
idem ; distance from the mouth of
Mississippi, 16 ; inside passage from

INDEX ;

Tii

lo Mobile and Blakeley, 18 ; man-
ner of passing to, over lake Pon
chartrain, 38; time necessary to
pass from to Arkansaw post, 40 ;
distance from Nashville, 43 ; from
Mesico by land, 44: communica
tioti between and Opelousas, 52.

Jteto-Yerk, state of, its western part,
extent, position and population, 1S7,
267.

JVile's Register, quoted, 124, 185.

Ocatakoola, river, 88.

Ohio, state of, the best account of.
Drake's Cincinnati, 1.

state of, natural position. 187

218 — topographical table, idem —
population, 219 — natural geography,
rivers, lakes, mountains, hills, mine-
rals, idem — hills, 224 — coal, idem
— progressive geography, history,
town?, 224 — productions, seasons.
climate, 229

river, 214 — south and southeast

limit of the state of the same name,
219 — quality and productions of the
land it waters, 220.

Oil of olives, 174.

— cotton seed, 180.

— Bhene, 185, note.
Olives, wine, and silk, 21.

tree, when found in France, 26 —

more valuable than the vine, 30 —
will find a congenial situation in
part of the Mobile basin, 33 — cul-
ture in Opelousas, 79.

history of, eulogy on by Colu

mella, 165 — supposed to have been
brought originally from Egypt into
Greece, and from there to Marseille?
idem — culture of discouraged by
Spain in her colonies, 165, note —
botanical description. 166 — climate
and soil suitable to, idem — Necessa
ry position, 168 — epoch of its intro-
duction into France, idem, note —
distance from the sea, 167 — locality
in France, idem — season of flower
ing in France, 170 — time between
the flower and ripe fruit, idem, note
— effects upon by frost, 171— sue
ceeds better in sandy or stony thai
upon chalky or clayey soil, 172 —
description of from Miller's Garden
er's Dictionary, 172 — form of, culti
vating in England, 174 — considered
by the ancients a maritime tree,
idem — manner of cultivating in
Languedoc, idem — from what soil
I he best oil produced, idem— man-

ner of cultivating in England, 175 —
more hardy than the orange tree,
176.

Opelousas, land office opened at, when,
5— town of St. Landre, its latitude,
11 — communication between and
the Mississippi river, 54 — landing-
place, idem — boundaries, 55 — cha-
racter of its inhabitants, 61 — natural
limits, 69 — character of the country
between, and Bayon Rouge, 71 —
origin of the name, 71 — formerly
part of Attacapas, idem — civil li-
mits, idem.

church of, stands on table-
land, 57.

Orange, 11 — tree frequently destroyed
by frost upon the shore of the Gulf
of Mexico, idem — in Europe grows
farther north than sugar cane, but
the reverse in America^ 12 — its limit
in Louisiana, idem — easily destroy-
ed by frost, 176.

Orizaba, volcano of. 16.

Orleans, territory of, what were its ex-
tent and limits. 3 — subdivisions when
under the French and Spanish go-
vernments, 4.

Osage, river, 139.

Ouac.hitta, river, sources, course, 50 —
confluent streams, 8S — described,
90— lands of, their production, 99—
character, 101.

parish of, 102.

Outlets of the Mississippi, IS.

Prairies of Laurent, 51 — described, 69.

Louisiana and Texas, 49, §1

— extent of exaggerated, idem.

Mamou, 51 — described, 62.

Missouri, 144.

near the mouth of Sabine,

55, 60.

Mer Rouge, 99.

Opelousas described, 63-64.

Osage river, 140.

Petite Bois, 51.

St. Louis, 144.

Pride of India (Melia Aeederach), de-
stroyed by frost at Opelousas, April,
1812 12

Printing, state of, in the Western
states. 217.

Providence lake, 13.

Pumice stone found upon the shore of
tbe Gulf of Mexico, 16.

Pari* its winters, 28.

Pasragou'.a river, 10, 32— sources and
confluent streams-, 117.

Pastoral life, its vicissitudes, 76— se-

viii

INDEX.

verity of, idem. — profits of, in the
state of Louisiana, idem. — characte
of the men who perform its duties,
77.

Peach, orange and fig, common fruits
near the mouth of the Mississippi
river; 11.

Pearl river, 19, 20; impeded by rafts.
idem; country between and Sabine,
151.

Petition, Requite, what, 5.

Plaquemine, bend of, 17 ; its impor
tanceasa military position, idem. :
settlements below, upon the Missis-
sippi banks impracticable, idem.

Plaquemine, Bayou, an outlet from the
Mississippi, 52.

Vlums, produced plentifully in Lou-
isiana, 11.

Pomegranate, where first found plant
ed in hedges, in France, 26.

Ponlcharlrain, lake of 13; passages
from into lake Borgne, 19, 32, 38.

Population, its advance in North Ame-
rica. 82.

Potatoes, their culture, 183.

Prairies, of Attacapas, 67.

Arkansaw river, 138, 141.

Bellevue described, 66.

Calcasiu, 60; pursuits of the

inhabitants of, 61.

■ Grand, 51; described, 63.

Grand Ohevreuil, 51; describ-
ed, 69.

1 — Kansas, and Plate river, 141.

Posts, under the French and Spanish

governments, 4; sub divisions of

Louisiana still known by the name

of posts, 4.
Peninsula between Red and Ouachit

ta, character of. 89, 90.
Pennsylvania, western part, position,

187 ; general description of, 251.
Pittsburg, city of, when formed, ^67 ;

described, idem. ; manufactures and

merchandise, 253.

Raft in Atchafalaya, 62.

Red river, cotton cultivated on it>
banks, 11; inundations of, 13--ifs
length, 49; sources and course. 50 ;
described, 86 89 ; salt springs near,
idem ; waters brackish at jNatchito
ches,idem; note.

Rhone, basin of, divided into two mi
nor basins by the embranchments of
the Alps, 125; compared to the
basin of Mobile, 36, 127, note.

river, its course, 25; character

of its confluent streams, 26; con
trasted with the Mobile. 33 and 157.
.note.

Ifrce, its relative value, 9; one of the
staple commodities of the state of
Louisiana, 10; extent of its possible
cult ire near the Mississippi, idem ;
and 180; compared with other sta-
ples, idem.

Rigolet's, pass of, 19, and 123.

Uigolet de bon Dieu, 88.

River, A in, 26.

Alabama, 32, 35.

Aleghany, 15, 253.

Amazon, 29.

Amite, 35, 1 15.

Apalachicola, 532.

Arkansaw, 14, 49, 50, 138.

Ashtabula, 223.

Au Glaize, 223.

Barthelemy, 91, 99.

Big: Beaver, 223,268,

Big Black, 115.

Big Horn, 14.

Black, 223

Black lake, 84.

Bodcau, 84, 88.

Boeuf, 101.

Bog <e Chito, 117.

Brassos, a Dios, 50, 84.

Buffalo, 115.

another, a branch ofTen-

nessee, 194.

Burrampooter, 29.'

Cahaba, 33, 133. 138.

Cancasiu, 50, 56, 84.

Camchee, 31.

Cayahoga, 219, 223.

Chagtine, 223.

Chaiabooche, 32, 135, 138.

Ciieat, 253, 255.

Chicago, 215.

Chickisawhay, 117.

Clinch, 193, 252, 253.

Colorado, of the Gulf of Califor-

nia, 29.

Colorado, of the Gulf of Mexico

84.

Mexico, 84.

Conecuh, 133.

Conemaugh, 255.

Cooper's, 31.

Coosa 32.

Courtableau, 52.

Cumberland. 190, 194, 252.

Daoheet,84, 88.

Danube, 29.

Delaware, 189.

Derhaue, 84.

Dog 117.

Doux, 26.

Drome. 26.

Duck, 194. .

Dogdomini, 84.

Durance, 26.

Durgeon. 26. ,

INDEX

River, Edisto, 31.

Elbe, 29.

Elk, 193, 257.

Embarras, 212.

Escambia, 133.

Euphrates, 29.

French Broad, 193.

Flint, 135.

— Fourche au Cado, 91.

Ganges, 29.

— ■>- Gardou, 26.

Genesee, 29 269.

Grand, 219, 223.

Green, 204.

Green Briar, 257.

! Guadaloupe, 84.

Henderson, 210.

1- Hietan, 88.

Hockhocking, 219, 221, 223.

Holston, 193.

Homochitto, 115.

Hudson, 189.

Huron, 223.

Illinois, 14,209,211.

Isere, 26.

• Jcnisea, 29.

Juniata, 254.

Kansas, 14, 139.

Kaskaskia, 210.

Kenhawa, Great, 15, 253, 256.

Kenhawa, Little, 253, 256.

Kentucky, 194,204.

Kiskiminitas, 254.

Lafourche, 11.

Leaf, 117.

Licking, 204.

Little Water, or Little Wabash,

211

Ma^on, 50.

Marne, 29.

Maumee, 215, 219, 298.

Mermentau, 50, 56, 84.

Merrimack, 138.

Miami, Great, 201, 219, 220.

Miami, Little, 219, 221.

Mississippi, 11, 13, 14, 17, 18,29,

85. 137, 203, 204.

Missouri, 14. 137.

i Missouri, Little, a branch of

Ouachitla, 91.

Mobile, 29, 32.

Muskingum, 15, 222.

Nile, 29.

Nolachucky, 193.

Nueces, 50, 84.

Oby, 29.

Oconee, 31.

Ohio, 14, 82, 137, 204, 211, 219;

Oise, 29.
Oneida, 269.

Osage, 14, 138.

Oswego, 269.

Ouachitta, 11,60, 85,90.

Ougnon, 26.

Pascagoula, 32, 35, 117.

Pearle, 11,35.

Plate, 14.

Plata, Rio de la, 29.

Po, 29.

Potomac, 252.

Red, 11, 13, 14, 49, 60, 85, 138.

Rhone, 25, 26.

Rio Grande del Norte, 50, 83, 84.

Rolling, 204.

Rocky, 223.

Sabine, 11, 84.

Saline of Red River, 84, 88.

Saline of Ouachitta, 84, 91.

Sandusky, 219, 223.

Sandy, Great, 201, 204, 252, 256.

Soane, 26.

Savanna, 31.

Sciota, 219, 221.

Seille, 26.

Spoon, 210.

St. Antonio, 50.

St. Francis, 137, 142.

— >— St. Lawrence, 29.
St. Joseph, 215.

Susquehanna, 189.

Tagus, 29.

Tallapoosa, 33, 132, 138,

Teche, 11,50,52.

Tennessee, 15, 32, 253.

• Tensaw, 101 .

Trinity, 50, 84.

Tuscarawas, 222, 223.

Tiger Valley, 253.

Vasseux, 211.

Vermilion, 11.

Wabash, 14, 211, 211.

Wacahatcha, 56.

Weser, 29.

White, 14, 137, 142.

White Woman's, 222.

Yazoo, 32, 114.

Youghiogheny, 191, 252, 253.

ROAD AND RIVER ROUTES.

New Orleans,to the bar at the
mouth of the Mississippi

New Orleans, to Mobile and
Blakeley

St. Stephens, to New-Orleans
by Madi3onville

1 Natchez

Milledgeville in

Nashville in Ten-

No. | p.

Georgia,

nessee by Huutsvills

«|37

INDEX.

New Orleans to Natchez, and
post of Arkansaw, by the
Mississippi river 7

— Natchez, by Lake

Pontchartrain, Madisonville 8

■ Mexico, by land 9

Hot Springs on

Ouachitta, by Opelousas
and Natchitoches 10

Natchez and Fort

Miro 11

by water 12

' Natchitoches by

water 13

Opelousas by wa-
ter 14

New Iberia and St.

Martinsville by water 15

St. Martinsville,

by the Atchafalaya and Te-
che 16

■ Natchez and Lake

Providence 17

» Fort Miro, by Ope-
lousas, Alexandria, and Oca-
tahoola 17

Natchez to Natchitoches, by
the town of Alexandria 19

•■ New Orleans, by Madi-

sonville 20

— ■ Baton Rouge and the

Levee 21

by water 22

— Opelousas and Attaca-

pas, by Alexandria 23

Prairie of Avoyelles 24

~ ■ ■ Milledgeville, 23

Nashville 26

St. Louis, by water 27

■ Pittsburg by water 28

St. Louis, to New-Orleans, by

water, 29

Washington City, by

Lexington in Kentuc-
ky, 30

Shavvaneetown and

Knoxville 31

Pittsburg, by Vinceu-

nes and Cincinnati 32

New Orleans, by Rtis-

selville, Nashville, and Nat-
chez 33

J by the Hot Springs on

Ouachitta, Natchitoches, on
lied River, and Opelousas 34

-to the Pacific Ocean,

by the Missouri and Colum-
bia rivers 35

■ Length and stationary

distances of the Tennessee
river,by.the Holslon hranr.h36

■- Length and stationary

Jifoi | p.

distances of the Cumberland
river from its source to its
entrance into the Ohio 37

From Nashville to Washington,
by Knoxville 38

Nashville to Pittsburg, by Lex-
ington in Kentucky 39

Nashville to Charleston in S.
Carolina, by Athens, Augus-
ta, and Savannah in Geor-
gia 40

Nashville to Columbus in the
state of Ohio, by Lexington
and Cincinnati 41

Nashville to Charleston, by
Knoxville and Columbia 42

Nashville to Washington, by
Raleigh in North Carolina,
and Richmond, Virginia 43

New-Yorkto Lexington in Ken-
tucky, by Philadelphia and
Pittsburg 45

From the S. W. to the N. E.
coiner of the state of Ohio 46

Cincinnati to Urbana 47

Chilicothe to Cincinnati ' 48

to Marietta 49

Marietta to Zanesville
Cleveland to Zanesville
Pittsburg to Paynesville on Lake

Erie
Pittsburg

to Chilicothe

Steubenville

to Vincennes

to Urbana

to Detroit

to Philadelphia

Buffalo, by Erie

Warren

Harrisburgh, (the

northern route)

Union, by Clarks-

bnrgh 61

Washington City, by

Winchester 62

Albany by Buffalo and Cherry
Valley 63

by Utica 64

Netcburgh to Geneva 64

Neiv- York to New-Orleans, by
Philadelphia, Baltimore, Wash-
ington, Knoxville, and Nat-
chez 66
Washington City to Marietta,
by Winchester and Clarks-
burgh 66
New- York to New-Orleans, by
the Great bend in the Sus-
quehanna river, and Hamil-
ton on the Alegliany river,
and thence by water 67
Syllabus of the Grand Canal,
from Albany to Lake Erie 68

INDEX.

Sabine river, 11 — sea-shore between,
and Pearl, 51 — mouth of, 55 — part
of the western limit of the state of
Loaisiana, idem — described, 85.

Salesof public land, none yet made in
Louisiana, 8.

Salt Springs on Ouacbitta.

, their nature explained,

88, note.

on Petite Anse, in Attacapas, 68.

onConemaugh, and Great Ken-

hawa rivers, 265-266.

in Wyth county, in Virginia, idem.

— — in Onondaga county, in the state
of New- York, 270.

Sandy soil, necessary to the produc-
tion of good wine, 24 — produces
that of Aubrion, 130— in Georgia,
31— necessary to the production of
the best olive oil, 172.

Saone river, its character, 26.

Savages of America, contrasted with
the frontier men of the United
States, the creole of Louisiana, and
the Spanish horsemen, 61.

Saw mills, 101.

Schultz's travels, 292.

Seine basin, its outline, 27.

river, constituent streams, 29.

Sesamum, that species of, called orien-
tal Bhene, introduced into the United
States, 185.

Sheep in Louisiana, 78.

Shelter from north winds, its primary
importance in the culture of the
olive tree, 172 — observations upon,
174, note.

Sicily, island of, 13.

Sick7iess, cause of upon, and near the
Mississippi river, 40.

Silk, its production in the United
States, 168.

• , wine, and olives, 21.

Snow, frequent at Natchez, 11 — its oc-
currence at Opelousas, 11-12 — limit
of, in Louisiana, 12 — its occurrence
ominous to sugar-cane, idem — its
occurrence and effexrts, 78.

Soldiers' bounty land, in the Illinois ter-
ritory, its position, 209 — climate of,
idem.

South Carolina, part of it in the Ohio
valley, 187.

Southern parts of the United States,
resemblance to the south of France,
22 — compared, idem.

Spanish government, its policy, 141,
145.

St. Andrew's settlement, 144.

— Charles district, 142 — situation, 145.

— Ferdinand village, 144.

— Francis' river, 139.

— Genevieve district, 142 — described,
idem.

— Joseph, bay of, 16.
, lake of, 13.

— Louis' district, 142 — lands of, 144: —
productions and population, idem.

, town of, 143 — compared with

Cincinnati, idem — road from to
Natchitoches, 149 — situation of, 164
— distance from the mouth of Co-
lumbia river, idem,

— Martinsville in Attacapas, 73 — con-
trasted with New Iberia, 74.

Stage Coaches, not yet established in
Louisiana, 42.

Staples, sugar, cotton, indigo, rice, and
tobacco compared, 9 ; of the state
of Mississippi, 120 ; indigo, sugar,
rice, and tobacco again compared,
182.

Steam Boats, their celerity, 40; com-
pared with barges, idem; impor-
tance to Kentucky, 205.

Stoddard's view of Louisiana, 1 ; con-
jectures respecting the climate of,
147 ; his documents compared, 292.

Storms, their violence along the noilh
shore of the gulf of Mexico, 11;
their effects on the sugar-cane, 75.

Sugar, relative value, 9.

cane, cannot be raised so ex-
tensively in Louisiana as cotton, 8;
its limits, 10 ; frequently destroyed
by frost on the gulf of Mexico, 11;
highest point, north, to which the
successful culture of has been ex-
tended, 12 ; is found in North Ame-
rica farther north than the orange
tree, but the reverse in Europe,
idem; if successfully cultivated in
Georgia, deduction therefrom, 31;
its limit, importance, 74 ; how pro-
pagated in Louisiana, 176; its con-
genial climate compared with that
of the olive, idem ; its superiority as
a staple, 182.

Susquehanna, river of, 189. j

Table of the relative value of sugar,
rice, cotton, indigo and tobacco, 9.

Tallapoosa river, 132.

Teche river, sugar-cane cultivated up-
on its banks, 10; cotton, idem; its
junction with Atchafalaya, 53;
sources of, 58; features, idem ; ex-
cellence of its lands, 59; lands at
the mouth of, 72; contrasted with
the Vermilion, 73 ; its banks thickly
inhabited, 74.

Tennessee, state of, position, extent,
and population, 187; topographical
table of, 192; length, breadth, and
extent, 193 ; natural features, ib. ;
middle climate of the United States,

INDEX.

195; soil.surfoce, hills, idem; com-
pared with the state of Mississippi,
196 ; progressive geography, history,
idem; productions, 197; towns,
colleges, schools, idem.

Tennessee river, 193,

Tenure of Land, Spanish and French,
1 ; its principles explained, 5; in the
state of Ohio, 225.

Tenre aux Boeufs, settlement of, 17.

Texas, province of, current upon its
coast, 16 ; prairies of, 49 ; part of
Louisiana, 50; discovery of, 81;
character of as a country, idem ;
its importance to the United States,
82; limits, extent, and climate, 83 ;
inhabitants, 84.

Tide, flows up the Atchafalaya, and
into Bayou Plaquemine, 54 ; flows in
the Teche above New Iberia, 58.

Titles (land), in Louisiana, their varie-
ty, 5 ; manner of surveying, idem ;
large, doubtful, 146.

Tobacco, its relative value, 9 ; may be
cultivated in Louisiana as extensive-
ly as cotton or indigo, 10 ; was for-
merly a staple commodity of Louis-
iana, 10; compared with other sta-
ples, 180.

Tombigbee river, 35; junction with
the Alabama, 37.

Towns, Ashtabula, 229.

Athens, 229.

Blackford, 216,

Bridgeport, 262.

Brookville, 216.

Brownsville, 261.

Cadiz, 229.

Cahokia, 213.

. Canton, 229.

« Chilicothe 227.

Cincinnati, 225, 226.

Columbia, 226.

Coshocton, 222, 229.

Corydon, 216.

Dayton, 226.

Erie, 264.

Frankfort, 206.

Franklin, 254, 264.

Greensburg, 263.

Greenville, 229.

Hamilton, 226, 254, 164.

Harmony, 216.

Kaskaskia, 213.

Kingston, 193.

Kittanning, 254, 264.

Knoxville, 198.

Lawrenceburg, 216.

Lisbon, 229.

• Louisville, 207, 226.

Mad won, 216.

Madisonville, 38, 40.

• Marietta, 222, 228.
Meadville, 264.
Mobile, 21, 35, 136,

• Morgantown, 263.
Mount Vernon, 229.

• Nashville, 198.
Natchez, 126.

• New Iberia, 58.

• New Lancaster, 229.

• New Orleans, 16, 19.

. New Philadelphia, 229.

- Pittsburg, 25 and sequel.

• Shippingport, 207.

• Steubenville, 228.

■ St. Martinsville, 58.

- Troy, 229.

- Union, 263.

- Urbana, 229.

- Vincennes, 216.

- Waterford, 254.

- Warren, 229.

- Washington, 263 .

- Williamsburg, 227, 229.

- Zanesville, 222, 227.

- Zenia, 229.

University of Transylvania, 206.
Utica, in the state of New-York, its
situation, 252.

Valley of the Mobile, its extent, 136—
of the Ohio and Illinois rivers, ex-
tent of, 187 — local position, idem —
political divisions, idem — geological
structure, idem.

Vegetable and meteorological, analogy,
its use in judging of climate, 12.

Vegetables, the true thermometer of
climate, 21— analogies of, 75, 231.

their principles of life and

perpetuity, 177.

Vermilion river, character of its lands,
66— contrasted with the Teche, 73.

Vine, whether it can be successfully
cultivated in Louisiana, and Alaba-
ma territory, or not, 21 — grant made
for the purpose of introducing,
idem — succeeds best in Champaigne
upon the most sterile land, 22— dis-
tent from the sea, 23— not always
influenced by mere difference of lat-
itude, idem— its growth in Burgun-
dy, Dauphiny, Anjou, Touraine,
Orleanois, Beri, and Lower Au-
vergne, idem — Basin of the Rhone,
26— but seldom found with the ap-

INDEX.

pie, 28 — where it can be cultivated
in the United States to most advan-
tage, 35 — whether it can be culti-
vated in Opelousas or not, 79 — con-
genial climate, similar to that of
cotton, 176.

Virginia, western part, position, ex-
tent, and population, 187 — general
description of, 251.

Vivarias, 24.

Volcano of Orizaba, 16.

Volney, his work on the United States,
191, 234, and sequel — recommended
to emigrants, 291.

Wabash, its resemblance to the Ohio,

212.
War between the savages and the

United States, 224— terminated by

the treaty of Greenville, idem.
Washington, general, letter from, 260.
in the state of Mississippi,

126.
Water, its effects on climate, 31.
West Florida, in great part vacant

land, 7.
Western Stales, their produce, cotton,

fl«ur and sugar, 2— inflated pictures

of, 2 — position. 3— extent, and po-
pulation, ib. .

Wheat and Rye, why not cultivated in
the state of Louisiana, 11.

White river, 138.

Winds, their effect on climate, 170.

Wine, olives, and silk, 21 — good wine
only, produced from grapes growing
in sandy soil, 24 — found in the higher
part of the basin of the Rhone,
why, 26— and of St. Troy, Millery,
Charly, Cote Rotie, Hermitage,
Thain, St. Perit, Gormas, and Cha-
teau Neuf-du-pape, their character,
27.

principal culture in the higher

parts of the basin of the Seine, 29.

of Poilly, Charite-sur-Loire,

Blois, Tours, and Angers, 30.

of Aubrion, its character, and

why, idem.

Winters in Louisiana often severe, 15 —
of 1766 in Europe, 26— safest and
most agreeable time to travel, 38, 42.

of the northern and southern

states compared, 121.

at St. Louis, 148— at Natchez,

idem — Tennessee, 195 — more in-
tense west, than east of the Ale*
ghany mountains, 244, and sequel.

FINIS.

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